LIBRARY OF THE MASSACHUSETTS AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE :pcJ SOURCE. . CcxUe.^-%_-£-u.iOIi s.... Thf Garden.] [Dfxember 26, 1.(^14. The Garden.] [DecBMBER 26, IQI-(. HHNRV MKRRVWEATirKR, J. P. The O.aKden.] [December 26, igi.). AN Illustrated Weekly Journal OF Horticulture in all its Branches. Founded by W. Robinson in 1871. Edited by F. W. HARVEY. VOL. LXXVIII. CHRISTMAS, 1914. Office: 20, TAVISTOCK STREET, COVENT GARDEN, W.C, Published by "COUNTRY LIFE," Ltd., 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C, and by GEORGE NEWNES, Ltd., 8-1 1, Southampton Street, Strand. 31 The Garden f [Ducembkr 2O. igu T^ Q[l(o X -^ '^- THIS VOLUME OF "THH GARDEN" Is dedicated to HENRY MERRYWEATMER, J.R IT is with considerable pleasure that we dedicate this, the seventy-eighth volume of The Garden, to Mr. Henry Merrj'Aveather. who has devoted a long and strenuous life to horticulture. He was born as long ago as January 24, 1839. The son of a gentleman's gardener, he spent his earliest days in private gardens, but at the age of sixteen joined his father in a nursery business which laid the foundation of the now well-known firm of Messrs. H. Merryweather and Sons, Limited., Southwell, Notts. Early in his career, i.e., in the year 1858, about the time the first Rose Show was held in St. James's Hall, he made the acquaintance of the late Dean Hole, who was at that time hon. secretary of the Rose Show, and that commenced a friendship which became very intimate, and was only se^'erecl by the death of the \-enerable Dean. ^fr. Merrj^veather recalls with interest a visit paid by Mr. William Robinson (who founded The Garden), Mr. Noel Humphreys and the late Dean to his nurseries at Southwell, \vhen Mr. Humphreys took a-way with him a verj' fine bloom of Rose Marechal Niel and wrote a diary of the flower in The Garden somewhere about the early sixties. One of the most important events of his life was the introduction of Apple Bramley's Seedling, which was raised in a garden at Southwell. Mr. Merryweather at once realised the va.\\ie of this splendid culinary Apple, and secured the whole stock. When he first exhibited fruits before the Royal Horticultural Society in 187(1, this variety received an award of merit, and subsequently, in 1883, it received the higher recognition of ,a first-class certificate. The cultivation and improvement of the Rose have always received considerable attention from our friend, and it is to his enterprise that we owe the b^'autiful Polyantha varieties Jessie and Phyllis. Although horticulture has naturally been his first love, local affairs have received considerable attention, and there is scarcely an organisation m and around Southwell that has not benefited by iiis presence. Two years ago he was appointed a county magistrate, a position that he fills with credit to himself and the county he represents. In spite of his advancing years, Mr. Merryweather enjoys good health and is as active as many men are at fifty. Tliat he may long be spared to carrj^ on his good \\'ork is our earnest wish, in which we feel sure all who lia\'e the honour to know him will heartily join. Vol. LXXVIII. " The Cai'dcii." Dcccmhcy iG, njl.). INDEX A. Abutilon, gardi-']i varii-tk^s of, ;il8 Acacii dealbata, 190 ; outtloors, 15,) ; for a small »ireunhou«o, 89 Acetylene gas refuse, 111 Aconite, the Cilician Winter. 53 Acrostics, 15, 27, 39. 51, 03 A^aricvis comatus, GO-t Alders, some unconinioii, 193 Allotments, cultivation of, 441 Almond^, plautiufr, for ofTcct, 171 Alpines from seeds; 187 ; planting;, 187 ; protecting in winter, 31 ; sowing seeds of, 397 ; the fifty test, 190 AlstneniLrias, tniusplanting, 89 AiiuiraMtluis Dr. Martin, 35fi Auiuryllis Brlladonua, habitat of, 552 ; Boliadonna spei-iosa purpurea, 460 Amygdalus persica rosea flore plcno pendula, 220 Anchusa, pruning, 408 Anchusas, increasing, 433 Annual flowers, work among, 185 Annuals by the pathside, 8 ; colour effects with, 30, 79, 182 ; for amateurs' gardens, 148 ; for cutting, 159 ; for rock sarden, 410; gardening with. 7; half hardy, 170 ; hardy border of, 214 ; liints on growing, 70; in rock garden, 170 ; late sowing of hardy, 540 ; to sow in autumn, 482; six dwarf, 133; six good, 460 ; with other plants, 137 Anthurium conchiflorum, 196 Antirrhinum, future of the, 376 ; Nelrosc, 220 ; the, 131 Antirrhinums as beddimi plants, 42 ; four good, 231 ; tall, 142, 106 Apple, a black, 515 ; blossoms, 227 ; Harry Pring, 536 ; jelly. Crab. 516 ; Sandling Duchess, 248 ; Winter Eibston, 623 Apples, storing, 438 ; two u'^efui, 438 ; and Pears, pruning, 586 ; storage of, 530 ; their flavour and pedigree, 595 Aquilegia Stuarlii, 377 Aquilegias in pots. 539 Arabis aubrietioides Trevor Seedling, 220 Arauearia imbricata as firewood, 616 Arches in gardens, 379 Aristolochia moupinensis, 24 Asdepias Douglasii, 427 Ashes, coal, for the garden, 64 Asparagus, cultivation of, 120 ; how to grow, 208 Asphodels, the Giant, 465, 472 Aspidistra, treatment of, 152 Aspidistras, dividing, 141, 173 Aster Amellus Arethusa, 486; Amellus King George, 466 ; Cloudy Blue, 512 ; disease, 167, 191, 238; a preventive for, 146; vimineus Lovely, 486 ; Purple Prince, 512 ; the, as a hardy annual, 434 Asters, China, in the woodland, 132 Aubriotias in the spring. 598 Aueuba, cultivation and propagation of, 197 Auricula Gordon Dou'-das, 196 ; Majestic, 248 Auriruias from seed, 221 ; hints on, 100 ; how to repot, 235; notes on, 3, 67, 117, 167, 235, 294, 339, 407, 458; l)reparing, for exhibition, 167 Azaleas, hardy, 686 Bamboos', planting. 237 Bananas, cultivation of, 478 Baskets, trug, 486 Beans, French, awards to, 439 Bed, a grey and blue, 479 Bedding, spring, hints on, 503. 534 Beds and borders for spring flowers, 467 Bee, leaf-cutting, among Pelargoniums, 387 ; and Hoses, 398 Beetroot, lifting and storing, 485 ijX3 Begonia Mrs. Harry Barton, 536 Begonias, tubrrouw, raising from si'cd, 32 ; winter-flowering, 542 Belladonna Lilies. 501 ; in Irrhind, 502 Borberis dulcis. 423 Blackberry Himalayan Giani, 466 Bog garden, the, and its formation, 565 Books— " Albiiry Park I'rers and Shrubs," 70 ' " An Artist in (iaidrn Plaiuiinu." 163 " Colour Standards and NoTucncla- ture," 76 •' My Garden in Spring," 164 National Dahlia Society's Supplement,, 549 " Recent Investigations on Apple Scab," 536 " Saxifrages," 549 "The Kose Annual," 211 " The Sweet Pea Annual," 77 Border, plants for edging a, 28 ; the herbaceous, how to make it, 10, 19, 36, 44, 59. 71 llordiTs. Inrbaceous, how to make, 554; ])huitin'_'. 571 lioronia megastigma, treatment of, 188 Bowling-greens, making, 92 Bramble, a beautiful white-stemmed, 16, 17. 573 lirasso-Cattliya Pink Pearl, 601 Brouni, the early -flowering, 482 ; the Jfount Ktna, :'.7-"i Brooms, the best hardy, 530 ; two beauti- ful, 241 Browallia speciosa major, 137 Buddh^ia Colvillei flowering at Christ- mas, 19 ; flowering in autumn, 540 ; flowering in October, 515 ; foliagi', earwigs eating, 90 Bulb notes, 454 Bulbs for present planting. 524 ; for spring planting, 139, 191. 215, 226 ; for the rock garden, 505 ; in grass, manuring, 176; in the rock garden, 457 ; ordering, 436 ; planting forced, 141 ; planting in grass, 453 ; why forced, fail, 104 Butcher's Broom, tlie, 615 Calanthes, the, 57 (Jalochortus maweanus, 415 Campanula cenisia alba, 220 ; excisa, 21 ; uarganica W. H. Paine, 356 ; Noi man Grove, 466 ; Moysii, 22 Campanulas, the, 87 Canarina campanulata, 71 Candytufts, the shrubby, 410 Cannas, flowering, 436 Carnation Chelsea, 356 , Gordon Douglas, 356 ; Lady Hermione, 114 ; Mrs, F, G. Beahng, 404 ; Pink Sensation, 581 ; Princess Dagmar, 512 ; Society's Show, 3S4 ; Wivelsfield White, 536 Carnations, deterioration of, 153 ; notes on, 24, 96, 155, 241, 315, 355, 364, 411, 464, 517, 595 ; Perpetual-flowering, for bedding, 167, 227 ; propagating, 540, 564, 585 ; raising, from seed, 155 Carpentaria californica, 23 ; in Ko^s- shire, 154 Carrots sown in November, 574 Citalogue, the ideal, 611 Catalpa bignonioides, 578 Caterpillars on Cabbage and Goose- berries, 102 Cattlrya Antiope Brockenhurst variety, 572"; Astron, 404, 558 ; hardyana rubens, 404 ; iridescens aurifera, 466 ; Neleus Sunspot, 558 ; Princess Royal, 512 ; Khoda Fowler's variety, 512 ; Sybil variety Lord Kitchener, 466 Ceanothus Gloirc de Versailles as a pot plant, 55 Ceanothuses in pots, 480 Calastrus articulatus, 623 Cherries, ornamental-flowered, 227 Cherry, a good Winter, 593 Chicory, how to use, 537 Cliini(iri;uitlius fragrans, 58 Cliionodo.sa, disease on, 215, 228 ; sar- dcnsis, 574 Chionodoxas, established bulbs of, 202. 215, 239; newly planted, 226 Choisya ternata in Scotland, 422 Christmas Koses, dividing, 461 ; and Lenten, 618 Clirysanthenuim Ca])tain Fox, 558 ; East- gate Gem, 573; Elegance, 3; James Stredwick, 536; I^a Negresse, 558: Meudon, 581 ; Afollir Godfrey, 601 ; Mrs, J. Gibson, 558 ; Richmond, 623 ; Sir Tony, 581 ; W. Kigby, 536 Clirysanthemums, early flowering, 474 ; trials of, 526, 591 : hardy, for November, 99; notes tm, 31, 71, 123, 183, 275. 319, 380, ;31, 585; November, 18; taking buds of, 417 ; top-dressing and feeding, 463 Cinirch decorations ^it Cluistmas, origin and meaning of, 621 Cineraria maritima, 422 Cistus eorbariensis, 78; japonica. 48; the Gum. 616 Clematis Armandii, 196; montana on a Spruce, 464; montana superba, 220; Spooneri, 490 ; the most beautiful, 598 ; the first to flower, 141 Climbers for large tries, 29 ; over farm buildings, 505 Clivia miniata, fine strain of. 189 Cob»ea, the genus, 391 ! Cocoa pods at Kew, 177 : Collins, W., the late, 16 Colour effects in the garden, 184 Columbine, the blue Siberian, 414 I Columbines, the, 100 ; Columnea glabra major, 196 i Conifers, golden-ieaved, for winter effects, ! 620 Copped Hall, garden at, 106 Coronilla glanca outdoors, 203 Corydalis thalictrifolia, 3 Cotoneaster applanata, 23 Crataigu^ Carri^rei, 611 Crinnm Powellii, how to plant, 594, 610 Crocus Sieberi, 53, 113; susianus, 567, 594 ; versicolor, 455 Crocuses, in grass. 147 ; of autumn and Avinter, 485; yellow, and sparrows, 113, 143, 179 Cupressus obtnsa Crippsii, 563 Cuttings with heels, 594 Cvclanien, hardy, 127; how to grow, 393 ; Mrs. Ellen Greaves, 48 ; neapoli- tanum and its seeds, 374 Cypripedium fairrieannra, 101 ; nivana, 558 D. Daffodil, an early, 125 ; Crystalline, 207 ; Florist's Favourite, 207 ; in Australia and New Zealand, 414 ; is the, a florists' flower ? 63,75, 112, 151; Maid of Honour, 207 ; Jlidas, 208 ; names, registration of, 168; notes, 43. 94, 115, 151, 160, 168, 187, 199, 206, 216, 231, 246 ; notes and queries, 460 ; Royal Sovereign, 201 ; the, in Australia and New Zealand, 400 ; the, in New Zealand, 79 ; The Marquis, 207 ; the Midland Society's Show, 224 ; Tin- toretto, 207 ; Vacuna, 208 ; Vauban, 207 ; White Maximus, 207 Daffodils at Forced Bulb Sh«w, 160 ; f Barr Cup for, 214 ; for pots, 452 ; for tlie rockery, 125 ; in grass, 390 ; in New Zealand, 100 ; naming of, 387 ; not flowering, 247 ; past history of, 199 ; the new Poetaz, 151 ; with lasting qualities, 202, 214; eighteen, with lasting qualities, 226 Dahlia, a good single, 501 ; Barbara Purier, 486; Canopus, 512; Deveron, 536 Dalilia Eden. 466; Etoile Uoh-, 460; Kismet, 466; Lovely, J66 ; j.ord Kitchener, 486 ; Lowfi
lacr, 28 ; grtod for loreing, 577 ; hardy, lor grriMdmiisr, 169 ; iirnning ornannntal, 560 Shrubhery borders in winter,- 606 Slur, tbe'iloublc-Howered, 2(11 Shigs, liuw tu trap. 203 Snapdragon, tlie, 131 Snowdrop, a little-known, 155 ; an autumn, 551 ; the, 500 Snowdrops and hardy Ferns, 77 Snow, Glory of the, 555 Solomon's Seal as a pot plant, 101 Soot as liquid manure, 64, 173 ; the vahie of, 188 Sophora Tree, the Chinese, 441 Mophro-Cattleya Xovember, 581 Sophro-Laplia felieia Fowler's Variety, 558 Sparaxis King Georgr V., 12tt Spiraea lindleyana. hardiness of, 120 Spiraeas, shrubby, 82 Sternbergia hitea angustifuha. .593 Stock, Beauty of Xicp. 118; the Nighl- seented. 177. 397 Stocks, the pevenuial, 48 Stone, preserving, 203 Stonework, to age, 29 Strawberries, alpine;, 249, 565 Strawberry beds, making new, 403 ; * fruits in December, 17 Sugar Corn, 421 Sunflower, a new, 183 Sunk garden, design for, 223 Swot Corn as a vegetable, 31 Sweet Pea diseases, 79, 102, 442 ; growing considered. 503 ; hints for beginniTs, 85; history, 471; King White, 83; Mrs. Hugh Wormald. 356; National Soc-iety's annual meeting show. 383 ; trials and novelties, 469; notes on, 51, 140, 199. 239, 306, :HiH, 444; the. in the flower garden, 9 ; The President. 356 Sweet Peas, autumu sowing of, 444 ; )ll^■^t whitr. si^arlct and niau\e, MS ; rla^^siticatiou uf, 87; early Muwi-riiig. 55 ; foi' rutting, 82 ; liints un -growing. .SO; ill large pots, 81; in pots. 607; in tubs. 200 ; staking. 84 Sweet Williams, 209 Syringa reflexa, 248 T. Table decorations, lightness in, 386 I'emperatc House at Kew, how the, was completed, 551 Tennis court, liow to make a dry, 501 : mo"^s on. 564 ; treatment of. ,592 Tborus. iati'-truiting, ,593 Tobaccu Plants, competition for, 449 Tomato chutney, ripe, 480 ; diseas4's of, 377 ; fruits not cnlourrng, 480 ; pickle, greeTi, 502 Tomatoes, early, 49; eelworni in, ^i^n Torch Lily, a beautiful, 421 ; a late- flowering, ,583 Tree, a, for a moist situation, 65; stump, to kill, 176, 571 : the Maidenhair, 607; the Wig or Smoke, 385 Trees and shrubs for wind screens, 61 ; fragrant-leaved, 20 ; transplanting large, 68 ; variegated, 551 ; damaged by gale, 153; planting under large, 511; pruning avenue, 28 ; pruinng street, .113 ; t/wo beautifvil flowi-ring. 242 Trenching, the value of, 619 Trillium rivale, 172 Tritelria uuiflora as a pot plant, 167 Tulip .bunv. 179; the Water Lily. 506 TnhjKi steliata. 220 Tulips after fluwi-riiig. 1^13: Darwin. 452 ; for tin; \rw Vt:ir. 39 ; e;irlv. 454: for forcing, 3M9 ; fur <-nltiu'Li. 432; in beds. 483; Alav-Iluweriui:. tri.'ils of, 441; the, hrcakiug (.f. 479: when to i)lant, 471, 49(1, 516, 528, 552 Valerian, thelled, as a wall plant, 608 Vegetable growing, fallacies about, 471 ; Marrow.^, how to grow, 233 ; seeds for spring sowing, 15 ; seeds, selection of. 69 Veg(!tables and salads, winter, 463 ; improving ground for. 429 ; notes on, 21, 87, 1'35. 163. 20m, 248, :!20, :W2. 437. 533. 56,4, 603 : storing of, 424 Verbasfums. the. 435, 450 Veronica spicata. 157 Veronicas, shrubby, in winter, 7 Viburnums, notes on, 4":'. Vine, aerial roots on, 236 Vines, disbudding ami tying. I4it: in small greenhouse, 561 ; niraly bug on. 67; pruning outdoor, 29; renovating old, 39; restorini.' to health, 543 Viola gracilis, 237 Violas, bedding, 429; judging exhibition. 104; notes on. 197 : trial of, 431 Violet Princess of Wale". 164 Violets for market, 40 ; in the open, 96 ; spring treatment of. 177; summ<'r treatment of, 373; two bi-autiful, 3X6 Violettas, 128 Vitis Tlumisonii, 564 Walk, plants for paved, 176 Walks, i.iauts for flagged. 408 Walllluw'.'rs in DiTi-niher. 583; raising. froni Mvds, 249 Wall gardens aiul plants. 147; plants. easdy grown, 121 ; plants fur, I7ti Walls, dry, in summer ami winl<-r. 519; planting in dry, 484 ; planting old, 441 Walnuts, cultivation of, 75 Watsonia coccinea, 445 Weeds as foliage, 616 Willow, seedlings of, 539 Windflower, Japanese, 475 Window, plants for, 28 Wind screens in gardens, 553 Witch Hazels. 45 Wood, plants for l^ank in, 383 Yews and churcbyai'ds, 78 Ypres, horticulture in, 593 Yuccas, advice on, 571 ILLUSTRATIONS. A. /F.thionema Warlcy Hybrid, 342 Aiiaricus comatus,'604" Almonds with dark-lcavcd shrubs, 171 AInus flrjna, catkins of, 193 ; Oregoua, catkins of. 192 Alpines on Mr. Correvon's wall, 147 Audrosace primuloides in a Devonshire garden, 289 Anemone angnlosa, 180: Pulsatilla alba, 213 Anemones, Japanese, by the waterside, 475 Angrrreum sesquipedale, 527 Annuals, plan of border for, 214 Antirrhinum Nelrose, 220 Antirrliinums in a dry wall, 484 Apple King Harry, 438 ; Lane's Prince Albert, tree of, 555; Stirling Castle, 438 ; the Japanese Crab, 243 Aquilegia glandulosa, 414; Stuartii, 378 Arabis on roadside wall, 121 Arch spanning garden path, 109 Arenaria balearica, 544 Arnebia eehioidcs, 18 Asparagus, how to raise and grow, 209 Asperula suberosa, 277 Aspidistras, dividing and repotting, 173 Aster Amellus King George, 466 ; fruti- cosus, 219 ; \imineus Lovely, 483 Asters, single Chinese, in woodland, 133 Anbrietia in the rock garden, 598 Aucuba, how to propagate, 197 Auricula Gordon Douglas, 218 Azalea garden at Kew, 587 B. Bamboo garden at Kew, winter scene in, 619 Barrel, an old, planted with hardv flowers, 333 Baskets, making garden, 486 Bedding plants, propagation of, 447 Beds and borders, plans for spring, 467 Bee, the leaf-cutting. Rose leaves attacked by, 398 Begonia Mrs. Harrv Barton, 536 ; Nancv. 102 Begonias slunvn bv Messrs. Blaekmore and Lantrdou at Clu-l^ea. 266 Belliuni bcllidioides, 397 Bcrberis Polyantha, 32 ; stcnophylla by the waterside, 256 Bletchley Park, rock garden by lakeside at, 330 ; stone steps at, 331 ; sunk garden at, 328 Border, a, of flowers and shrubs, 554 Borders, edgings for, 10; how to plant, 554 ; plans for, 60 Bowling greens, how to make, 92 Brasso-Cattleya Pink Pear!, 601 Broccoli Christmas ^^^^ite, 425 Buddleia variabilis veitehiana, 528 C. Calceolarias, Messrs. Webb and Sons', at Chebea. 267 Calocbortiis maweanus, 415 CampaTiula piilla, 416 Cauariua eanipanulata, 71 Candytuft betwei^n Darwin Tulips, 136 Canna seedlings, 149 Carnation Gordon Douglas, 356 ; repotting a young, 97 ; Salmon King, 24 Carrot New Bed Intermediate, 424 Catalpa bignonioidcs, seed-pods of, 578 Catkins of Alnus, 192 Celery and Lcelts, raising. 321 Cerastium tomcntosum, 337 Cherry, a double-flowered, 242; Kentish Bigarrcau, 596 Chimonanthus fragrans grandiflora, 59 Chionanthus virginicu, 364 Chionodoxa Lucilise, 153 Choisya ternata, 540 Chrysanthemums, early flowering, 474; taking buds of, 417 Cistus corbariensis, 58; ladauifcrus, 619; Loretii, 428, 539 Clematis Armandri, 204; grata grandi- denta, 392 ; montana, growing over Spruce tree, 464 ; on an old barn, 505 ; over cottage doorway, 306 Copped Hall, thi- rock garden at, 107 Coprinus comatus, 604 Cornns Xnttallii, 290 Coronilla glauca growing outdoors, 326 Cottage, an old. 9 Crocus versicolor, 457 Crocuses naturalised under trees, 146; on grassy mounds, 455 Cucumbers in cold frame, 309 Cyclamen, bow to grow, 393 ; Mrs. L. M. Greaves, 481 Gj'pripedium Calceolus, 302 ; Desdemona, 72 ; montana, 272 : ventricosum, 272 Cyrilla racemifiora, 144 Cytisus albus, 530 ; kewensis, 531 ; praicox, 73, 482 ; prjeeox and albus, 241 ; by the waterside, 294 ; purgans among hardy Ferns, 257 Dalfodil show in a schoolroom, 235 Dahlia Canopus, 512 Daisies, dividing double, 249 Dendromecon rigidum, 183 Dianthus callizonus, 376 : Duchess of Fife. 367 ; neglectus, 377 ; plumarius, 366 ; Spencer Bickham, 353 Dracsena, "ringing" a, 149 Ecbinops sphseroccphalus, 597 Echium callithyrsum at Bosahan, 574 Eremuri, a colony of seedling, 465 Eremurus himalaicus, seedlings of, :; robustus, 313 Rrica carnca, 101, 158 ; Cavendishii, 50:> ; lusitanica, 42 ; mediterranea hybrida. 6; Melanthcra. 118; vagans alba. 145 Erigerou Asa Gray. 340 ; mucionatns. 77 Erodiimi trichomana-folium. 341 Escallonia montc\iden£is, 515 ; philippi- ana, 46 Fern, a beautiful new British, 558 Ferns, Tree, at Bosahan. .564 Flax, the New Zealand, at Ramsey, 480 Flower-beds, designs for spring, 534 ; plans for summer, 297 ; spring, at Bournemouth. 251 ; borders in kitchen garden at Harlcyford, 379; borders in the Spcak.'r's garden, 443 Flowers, a border of mixed, in Dr. Wright's garden, 4 : berb,i,ceous, in a Sussex garden, 20 Forsythia suspen-sa, 182 Fothergilla major, 229 Frasera spcciosa, 56 Frcesia Excelsior. 123 Freesias, how to force. 405 Fritillaria porsica. 451 Fruit gatherer, a simph^ home-made, 476 : store, plan of a, 423 ; trei-s, summer pruning of, 357 Funkia tardiflora. .584 Galanthus octobrensis. 551 Galtonia candicans, 94 Garden, a paved, at Harleyford, 365 ; house, Messrs. R. Wallace's, at Chelsea, 260; Messrs Carter and Co.'s formal, at Oielsea, 261 ; plan of a terrace, for colour effect, 184 ; plan of a villa, 97 ; prize designs for, 507, 508, 509. 510, 520, 521, 532, 533, 546 ; tin- new sunk, at Sxitton I'Jacc, 569; view in a reader's, 369 INDEX [" Tlir Gardrii." DiTcmhcr 2C). tot.i. Gardens, sites for small. 245 Garrya elliptica in the- Botanic Garden. Camhridrje, 114; catkins of, 617 Giiilisjo biloba, 607 Gladiolus Eldorado, :JS1 Godctias and white Alyssuni used as edgings, 8 Grape Hyacinths as a carpet, 511 Grapes, a fine crop of Black Hamburgh, 12 Grass of Parnassus. 450 Giiiineias on mafiiii of pool, liiii H. ITalierlea Ferdinandii folmrgii. 2,S1 llanianielis mollis, 45; virgiiiica. 45 Harriss. Mr, V... portrait of, 201 Heath L'arden. a, on hillside, 1:11 Helianthiinnms. a colony of, 557 Hi-lliborus orieiit.alis. 95 ll.ill'ord, Lieutenant -Colonel Sir Georse, portrait of, 253 Holly, a flue weeping, 621 Hollyhocks from seeds, 249 Houseleek, the Cobweb, 175 ; the Fringed 47 Hyacinths and Narcissi, how to force, ; trpowing in fibre, 501 Iris border al Claiidoii Park. :'.01 ; Cantab. 105; flav.se.iis, 2:'.u ; Gobi <'ies1 , 2«5 ; kevigata .alba. :t20 ; l..-iieol hini, a new llcgelio-Cyehis. 24S ; Mars. :io,>s : luiiuila. 225 ; siislana, 440 Irises .Tapanese. at Holland House. Show, ;!55 ; at Wisley, :lflO. :ini ; by the water- side," 410 Ivy on chains, 13 ; under a large tree, 509 K. Keelile, Professor, portrait of, 141 l^nipliofia eauleseen.s, 502 L. Lachenalias, a potful of, 154 Lavender and Pinks, borders of, 142 : Cotton, the grey-leaved, 21 Lawrence, Sir Trevor, portrait of. 16 Leiicoium vernum at Wisl'^v, 132 f.i-wisia Mnw.Uii, 400 LilioceUrils (leeiirreiis. 586 Lilac .Marie Legraye. 169 Lilies, JIadonna. 409; wild r.illadniiiiii, 552 l.ilinm nepalense, 159 Lilv pool and steps, 163 Lit'hospermum prostratnm Heavenly Blue, 237 Lockinge, a -streamside view at, lOj ; a waterside garden at, 545 ; formal tlower-bcds at, 293 ; the rock garden at, 292 Lowrher, the Right Hon, .Tauu's \\ ., portrait of. 325 Luculia gratissima. 623 Lupines in a dry wall, 4s:5 Lupiims polypliylliis, 128, 008 M. .\fagnoUa glauea, 378; salicifolia, 196 ; stellata, 117 Maple. Japanese, 426 Marrows, how to grow. 233 ; \'egetable, collection of hybrid, 516 Mawley, Mr. E., portrait of, 605 Meconopsis integrifolia, 217 ; siauata latifolia. 240 Melon trial at Wisley, 439 .Miltonia vexillaria llev, W. Wilks, 380 .Moth, larva of the Leopard. 166 .Mushrooms on old hot-bed, 273 Myosotis alpe.stris, 296 ; Kiitli Kiselier, '238 N. Xareissiis P,arrii conspicuus. 45.S ; Biilbo- eodium eitrinus, 1,89; Crystalline, 208; eyelainiiiiiis, 113; Florists' Favourite. 232 ; moseliatus of Haworth, 89 ; J[rs, 1), V. W.St, 401 ; Mrs. Ernst H, Krelage, 224 ; Kingdove. 246 ; Rubel- lite, 166 ; White Knight, 181 ; W. P, .Milner. 148 Nemesia Marsden Jones' strain. 381 Nemesias in a iNFidland garden. 43;i Nepeta Mussinii. 518 Nymphiiea Mirliacea albida, 373 Odontoglossnm Colossus, 1'20 Olearia Haaslii. 473; stellulata. 3,50 Onion Keeord, 425 oreliids. raisinir from seed. 221 OstrowsUia ma'-'iiifna, 374 Paeonia Golden Harvest, 332 ; lobata, 344 Paphinia eristata. 33 Parsnip Tender and True, 424 Fasgue-f.owrr, the white. 213 Pear Charles laie-st, tree of. 566 ; Louise Bonne of Jcrsiy, 583 ; tree, fan-shaped. 37 ; to cover brick pillar, 577 Pears, double-stemmed cordon, 576 Pelargonium Mine. Crouss(: in vases, 441 Pentstemons, a bed of, 5 Phlox Hanny Ptleidcrer, 461 ; how to plant, 19 ; Newry Seedling, 329 Phloxes, herbaceous borders of, 5 Pinks, seedling, in dry wall, 579 Plans of kitchen garden, 25 Plant prepared for transplantation, 44 Plants, propai^ation of herbaceous, 36 Polemonium Biehardsonii album, 616 Polygonum afflne at Wisley, 70 Poplars, young, as a wind screen, 61 Pot used* for making Kose ointment, 386 Primula .algida, 180; denticiilata alba, 165; farinosa, 282; hirsuta nivea in a moraiiu!, 314; japonica alba, 280; at Wisley. 258; Juliif. 194; Mrs. ];erkeley.'22 ; group of, 119 ; obeonica shown by Messrs. Sutton at Chelsea, 265; liu'sbyi, 388; secunditlora, 284; sibirica. 412 ; sulfrutcsccns, :!89 Priimis acida dumosa. 201 ; Avium, 242 ; Cerasus Rhexii fl,-pl., 228 ; , Pissardii blirieana tl.-pl,, 203; triflora, 195 Pvriis tloribunda, 243 Q. liueen Alexandra at Clielsea Show, 259 Ranunculus Matthewsii, 2 Rhododendron campvloearinim, 573 ; ehartophyllnm. ;304 ; intricatum. 190; Lnderi Pink Diamond. '247 ; .Moupense. 96 ; Rosy Bell, 231 ; sideroiihylhim, 316 ; viinlianens(\ 317 Rhus Cot inns, 606 Ribes Brockli-bankii, 311 Rock garden, a June scene in a, 318 ; Messrs, Pulham's, at Chelsea, 262 ; JCessrs, K, Wallace's, at Chelsea, 202; .\bssrs, Whitelegg and Page's, at Chelsea, 263 : scene in September. 445 ; the Speaker's, 463 Hosa mosehat.i alba .at Campsca Ashe. 442 Rose Amateur Teyssier, 479 ; arch, 497 ; Augustus Hartinan, 368; a wi'cpiug standard, at Hampstead, 490 ; Climbing >tme. .Melanie Soupert, 66; Climbing Sunburst, 492; Dolly Varden, 491; Entente Cordiale. 156 ; Florence For- rester, 496 ; Gloire de Dijon and Clematises on a pergola, 556 ; Gustave Regis, 385 ; lona Herdman, 23 ; James Coey, 542 ; Majestic, 381 ; Margaret Dixon Hamill, 368 ; Miss Cynthia Forde. 361 ; Mrs, Bertram Walker, 368; Jtrs, Charles Russell, 493; Nerissa, 568 ; Pink Pearl. 354 ; Prince IJharming, 215 ; Queen of Fragrance. 352 ; The Dawson. 422 ; William Allen Richardson, 489 Roses a garden of. 522 ; ami nelphininms at Surbiton Hill, 495; P.anksian, 588; gathering, for Prince of Wales' Fund, 402; how to bud, :t45 ; how to priinr, 109; over ,\p]ile tree, 0'20 ; rambler and ilwart. Ill eonjiiiietioii,494 ; raiiililer, and lerliae.i.iis llowers, 5,sl9 ; slmwii by .Messrs, William Paul at Chelsea, 264 Salvia farinacea, 226 Saponaria oeymoides, 319, 593 Saxifraga biirscriana Gloria, 81 ; bur- scriana with over three hundred blooms, 116 : Cotyledon pyramidalis, 349 ; decipiens, 271 ; Fortnnei, 564 ; Haagei, 170 ; media, 108 ; Mossy, covered with fro.st. 54; oppositifolia, 57 Schizanthus grown from seesrs, I'.arrat Chelsea. 268 Valerian, the Red, 609 Vegetables, collection of. 581 Verbascum Chaixii, 435; olympicnm. 436 Veronica maerocarpa flowering in Deeeni- ber. 7 ; rupi-stris, 161 ; si)icata, 157 Viburnum Carlesii, 413; plieatum. 427. 472 ; rh>'tidophylluiu, 283 Viola, a seedling." in rock garden. 341 : cornuta alba, 449; Mavourneen. exhi- bition bloom of, 104 Violas with vonng Hawthorn shoots, 104 Violetta, a seedling. 129 Walileiibergia serjiyltifolia major, :138 Wall, a dry, in sninmer, 519 : garden in Devonshire. :107 Wallllowers. raising, from see.N. 249 \\'as|i.,' nest on Rlmdudeiidroii shoot, 362 Water Lilie-, grouping of choiee, 207 ; ]. hinting, 200 Water Lilv. a seedling. 205; pool in a villa garden, 369 Well-head iilanted with alpines, 254 Wistaria growing over a iiraiiary. 504 Yew hedge at back of border, 10 Yews, an avenue of ancient, 78 Yiicea flaecida, 433 Yticcas in midwinter, 618 COLOURED PLATES. Annuals, borders of, at Westwood, Tilehurst, 7 Antirrhinums, four good, 231 Auriculas, three alpine, 339 Higonia King George V,, 32 t'ariiation Gorgeous, 132 Coliimbinis, some new, 106 liatlixlils, three good, 455 Lilacs, two Ijeautiful, 413 Xerines, two new, 258 Rhododendron intricatum, 294 Roscoeas, three, 159 Rose garden at Hallingbury Place, 317 Rose Red Letter Day, 204 Roses, thri'e good garden, 494 Scabiosa eaucasiea magniflca. 5.S Spring seem*, a, at Kew, 390 Siintlower, Sutton's New, 18:1 Sweet Peas, rtve good, 8:1 I'elili >p,eies, three, 367 ■■.- «jfe»^ GARDEN. Kf — ySS>=^^0}i- J^^^ 2198. LXXVIII January 3, 1914. CONTBNTS. Notes oe the Week l Correspondence Plants flowering late 2 Corydalis thalictti- JoUa 3 The Horseshoe Fern 3 Chrysanthemum Ele- gance '^ Forthcoming events . . 3 Which is the Guernsey LUy? i Seasonable notes on Auriculas . . . . ^ Phloxes and Pentste- mons for large and small gardens . . 4 [N A Hampshire Garden Some of the newer decorative Koses + Rose-growing in town gardens 5 A hardy winter-flower- ing Heath fi Some good evergreen hedge plants . . . . 6 Shrubby Veronicas flowering in winter 7 Coloured Plate Gardening with annuals 7 Annuals by the path- side S A cottage home in Somerset . . . . 9 A beautiful climbing annual 8 The Sweet Pea in the flower garden . . . . 9 THE HEREACr.OnS OR MIXED border How to make and maintain it . . Winter treatment of lawn tennis courts . . Hints on pruning and planting Grape Vines Gardening for Beginners Ivies for low fences, rustic trellis and screens . . . . 13 Gardening of the Week For Southern gar- dens For Northern gar- dens Vegetable seeds for spring and succes- sional sowing . . Gardening Acrostics Obituary 10 11 12 ILiIiUSXRATIONS. Ranunculus Matthewsii in New Zealand 2 A border of mixed flowers at Romford 4 A full bed of well-grown Pentstemons 5 Borders of herbaceous Phloxes in a small garden . . 5 A beautiful winter-flowering Heath 6 Veronica macrocarpa flowering in December . . . . 7 Gardening with annuals Coloured plate Godetias and white Alyssum used as edgings . . . . 8 An old thatched cottage, with garden, in Somersetshire 9 A Yew hedge at back of border 10 Edgings for herbaceous or naixed borders 10 Plan of single and double lawn tennis courts . . . . 11 A fine crop of Black Hamburgh Grapes 12 Ivies for low fences, rustic trellis and screens . . . . 13 The late Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart 16 EDITORIAL! NOTICES. Every department of horticulture is repre- sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions relating to matters upon which they wish expert advice. NOTES OF THE WEEK. The Editor welcomes -photographs, articles and notes, but he will not be responsible for their safe, return. All reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted contributions. As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor asks that the price required for reproduction he plainly stated. It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo^ rjrapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with. The Editor unll not be responsible for the return of artistic or literary contributions ivhich he may not be able to use, and the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence thai an article is accepted. Publication in The Garden teill alone be recognised as acceptance. Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Corent Garden, W.C, To Our Readers. — With this issue a new volume of The Garden and a new year commence. It is with pleasure that we look back upon the year that has closed and recall the good feeling that con- tinues to exist between Editor and readers. To those who have assisted us in making The Garden better known, and those who have so kindly sent us notes and photographs of interest, we tender our best thanks. We fully realise that with this assistance we are enabled to maintain that high standard which is inseparably associated with The Garde.n. In our issue of December 20 we gave a brief summary of the good things that we have in store for readers, and it is with every confidence that we look forward to 1914. The year that has just closed has been a good one for us, and we hope that it has been a good year for our readers. Many have sought advice on gardening difi&culties of diverse kinds, and it has been a great pleasure to assist them. We hope many more will write to us during the present year of their gardening successes as well as their failures. We also feel that thanks are due to advertisers who have used our columns during the past year, and hope that readers will continue to support them as they have in the past. Every care is taken to admit advertisements of only reliable firms. To all we wish every happiness and success during the year that has just dawned. The Preservation of Thatched Roofs.— Those 1 who travel in the country districts must often ] lament the passing of the thatched roofs that I used to be almost imiversally employed for cottages, ] bams, stables and other outbuildings. These ' had the merit of fitting well into the landscape, 1 were cool in summer and warm in winter. Now, galvanised iron, with all its hideousness and other 1 disadvantages, is largely employed. There is a movement on foot to do all that is possibe t'l pre- serve thatched roofs, and those who are iuteiested in the subject should write to Mr. L. Mark Ken- naway, St. Helens, Teignmouth. If an object- I lesson of the suitability of thatched roofs for I country districts is needed, turn to the illustration on page g, and imagine the old cottage shown there has a galvanised iron or slate roof. j An Attractive Autumn-Flowering Evergreen 1 Shrub. — Though perhaps more familiar as a pot I plant in England south of the Thames and in the West, Aralia japonica, or Aralia Sieboldii as it is also named, passes through most winters outside uninjured. Flowering usually during October, the large panicles of creamy white flowers form quite a distinct and attractive feature at this season. Their beauty is also considerably enhanced by the large, fan-shaped, rich green leaves. It is quite a good evergreen for the town and suburban garden, so that when plants grovring in pots become too large for the living-room and small greenhouse, or lose their bottom leaves, it is worth while planting them outside. Aralia japonica is a very popular plant in the florists' shops, being commonly, though erroneously, sold as the Castor Oil Plant, a name which really belongs to Ricinus communis. It may be readily raised from seeds, which will be found listed in most seed catalogues. An Ornamental Fruiting Thorn.— -Apart from their flowers, the majority of the Thorns are very ornamental when in fruit. Crataegus Carriferei is one of the best. Conspicuous as it is when in flower, it is more so when it is bearmg its large, orange-coloured fniits. At the present time it is quite an object of beauty, and this is all the more noticeable as it is practically the only one left, the others having been stripped by birds. Probably the fruits of this one are not so palatable to them. The Value of Beech Hedges.— Hedges are used for many purposes, and there are a host of plants suitable for making them, according to their situation ; but few subjects are n-.ore effective at the present time than a well-grown Beech hedge. In a dwarf state the leaves of Beech remain on, and for that reason they are valuable as a protection for plants from cold winds, as well as giving a rustic and somewhat warm appearance by their brown, dry leaves during the dark dull days of winter. Retarding Fruit Blossom. — In order to retard the flowering period of such trees as Nectarines, Peaches and .■\pricots, it is a good method to withdraw the nails anJ shreds, or ties, so as to liberate the branch lets from the influence of the brick walls, which conserve and radiate the warmth of the Sim's rays. By exercise of timely attention in the matter, it increases the prospects of securing crops of fruit from unprotected trees upon walls. The trees can be nailed or tied up again a week or two before the flowers begin to open. If the old nails and shre;ls which are removed are subjected to fire, and placed in a sieve when cool, the nails can be easily separated from the ashes and can be used again. Marram Grass for Paper-Making.— The current issue of the Kew Buletin contains some interesting particulars of experiments which have been con- ducted in this country in the making of paper from Marram Grass, Ammophila arundhiacea. This plant grows on most of the sandy shores of the British coast, and, as good paper has been made from its fibre, it would appear to be well worth the attention of those who have such land under their control. It is frequently used for binding sand, and in New South Wales, where it was introduced in 1883, sheep are regularh fed on it, so that there is no doubt it would stand repeated cuttmg of its leaves. In the Port Fairy district of Victoria, Australia, nules of sand dunes have been reclaimed by planting Marram Grass, whence it has heen sent to many other Colonies for the same purpose. THE GARDEN. [January 3. 1914 CORRESPONDENCE. {Thf Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents ) The Winter Jasmine. — This is just now ver>- beautiful in tioiver. Its long sprays of soft yellow give it a peculiar charm of its own, and reaUy ought to be more generally cultivated. It is not particular about the position it occupies, but will thrive in almost any situation, and is always welcome at this season of the year. I know of a large bush growing on a lawn in Stonehouse, and to my knowledge it has been there thirty years. It makes a , good show of its pretty yellow flowers during the winter months, and is so useful for room decoration. — L. W. Driver, Stonehouse. A Little-Known Ranunculus. — I am sending you three photographs which may be of interest to you. No. r is Ranunculus Matthewsii. This is not so good as usual, as, owing to the very mild winter, it has been in flower for over three months, and has now a number of blooms still out, the individual flowers being 3 inches in dia- meter. No. 2 is Ourisia macrocarpa. Dr. Cockayne thinks this a new species. It is not so strong a grower as the type, but does well in cultivation. No. 3, Aciphylla Colensoi, is rapidly disappearing owing to rabbits and fire. — W. Willcox, Queens- town, New Zealand. A Pretty Tea Rose.— I refer to the fairly recent variety Rosomane Narcisse Thomas. We have grown it for two years, and can vouch for it being a good grower and free bloomer. The beauty of its foliagi- is very noticeable, having more of thai attractive bronze tinge in the early stage of growth than the majority of Roses, and passing finally to a deep glaucous green. Perhaps the colour of the flowers may be described as scarlet-crimson with a suf- fusion of apricot ; at least, this will d" lor its bud and half-developed stagr. when it is really at its best, for, like all other varieties possessing such beautiful shades of colouring, it loses some of it^ richness on opening. — C. T., Highgate. Mildew on Roses.— in reply to Mr Charles P. Serjeantson in your issue for December 27, page 642, in which he asks for the experience of others who have given Messrs. Gleeson's Serum a trial, 1 can fully bear out every word Mr. E. Molyneux said in its favour. I have used ran it rather extensively during the past season, with the most remarkable results. Early ill August the majority of our Roses became badly infested, one or two varieties which are prone to it especially so. We .-ipplied Serum according to directions, and it acted like magic. Some shoots which were perfectly white were thoroughly cleansed, and in a few days the foliage became qtiite natural. We gave two more slight applications at intervals of about ten days. The bushes became most healthy, and produced a wealth of bloom, owing partly to the mildness of the weather, right up to the middle of December, such as I have never experi- enced before during the thirty years that I have lived at Aldenham. The most satisfactory point about the Serum is that it leaves no sediment and appears to be quite harmless to any flowers or foliage. I have also used it with the same good results on winter Cucumbers, Tomatoes and other plants affected. When more widely known, I predict a great future for this preparation. — E. Beckett, V.M.H., Elstree. Plants Flowering on Christmas Day.— I think the following list of flowers in bloom, made in my garden on Christmas Day, may be of interest as showing the extraordinary- mildness of the season : White Marguerite, Chrysanthemum, Wall- flower, Violet, Passion Flower, yellow Jasmine, Marigold, Geraniimi, Feverfew, coloured Primrose, white Primrose, yellow Primrose. Cornflower, purple-tipped Clary, Love-in-a-Mist, Snapdragon. Godetia, Silene, Brompton Stock, Tobacco Plant, Nasturtium, Lobelia, Aubrietia, yellow Alyssum, Campanula attica, Daisy, Delphmium and six varieties of Roses. The garden is situated very UNCULUS MATTHKWSJI IN A NEW ZEALAND GARDEN. high and is a good deal wind-blown. Has it been known before that Aubrietia and Alyssum are blooming at the same time as Lobelia and Geraniums ? In the woods and fields of the Isle of Wight I have also seen iji the last day or two Primroses, blue Dog Violets, Ragwort in full bloom, Dandelion, Daisies, Speedwell, Camomile Daisy, Cow Parsley, Scabious, Groundsel, white Violet and pink Campion, and the catkins are out on the Nut trees. — K. H., [sic of Wight. Pruning Gooseberry and Currant Bushes.— in " Notes of the Week," issue December 6, the reference to the pruning of Gooseberry and Currant bushes will be welcomed by many readers. In country, and e\en many suburban districts birds are very destructive. Undoubtedly, autumn pruning (as relating to pruning and its effect on the bushes) is more beneficial than that done in the spring. At one time I grew about an acre of these bush fruits, and tried pruning at different dates. One year I pruned a Gooseberry bush very early in the autumn. There being so mafiy others for the birds — in a bird district — to tackle, this one bush was left untouched. In spring, this early-pruned bush commenced to grow nearly a week earlier than the spring-pruned ones, and, moreover, kept ahead and bore a heavier crop of finer berries. I have never tried the efiect of syringing with petroleum ; but if birds can be kept at bay by its application, then the result will be of much advantage to fruit cultivators. — G. G. Secateurs v. Knife. — Mr. Duncan Pearson's note on page 631, issue December 20, 1913, is timely, but allow me to say that Auberts' secateurs are the best, because both blades cut clean and are so powerful that a shoot of any size that the opening will allow can be readily cut, almost as clean as with a knife. The newest make have one handle turned back to form the spring which opens the knives, and cannot clog with chips or soil. Auberts also make what they call French Vuic loppers in two sizes, with handles about twenty inches long. These are very power- ful, and require both hands to use ; but they cut even old wood like cheese. Both of these are kept by seedsmen, and are far preferable to the old sorts with wooden handles, which have only one cutting edge, and thus bruise the wood below the cut on one side. — George Bunvaro, ^'Jaidstone. Plants Flowering Late.— The following plants were in bloom at Bryn Oerog, near Llangollen, on December r4, 1913 : Rudbeckia Newmanii, Wallflowers, Pent- stemons. Antirrhinums, Salvia dulcis, Laurustinus, Aubrietia Lloyd Edwards, Helleborus foetidus, H. niger altifolius. Ivy-leaved Geraniums, Pink Cyclops, Erigeron philadelphicus, E. mucronatus, Violas, double Furze, PotentiUa splen- didissima. Primroses (various), double white Clematis, Menziesia polifolia alba, Lithospermum prostratum, Oxalis arborea, .Arabis albida, yellow Polyanthus, Galan- thus cilicicus, Eomecon chionantha. Lobelia fulgens, hybrid Heucheras, white Fumi- tory, Erinus alpmus, Linum arboreum. Delphinium Queen of Delphiniums, Chry- santhemum maximum Mrs. C. Lowthian Bell, Heuchera Edge Hybrid, Verbena Miss Willmott, Hypericum moserianum, ROCK Gaillardias, Scabiosa caucasica, Luphius subcamosus, Achillea Single White, Cam- panula persicifolia (white, also the blue), I German Scabious (various), Viola cornuta, Anemone coronaria (many). Rose Dorothy Perkins, Hybrid Tea and China Roses, common Honeysuckle, Cyclamen cilicicum, Cheiranthus Alliouii, Arabis aubrietioides, Mesembryanthe- mum (rose coloured), Asteriscus niaritimus, double yellow Alyssum. Alyssum citrinum. Sweet Alyssum (white, aimual). Campanula garganica, C. g. hirsuta, C. muralis, C. m. major, Iberis gibraltarica, Con- volvulus Cneorum, PotentiUa willmottiana. Poly- gonum vaccinifolium, Polygala Chama'buxus, P. C. purpureus, Helianthcmum Mrs. C. W. Earle (double red), a salmon red Pulmonaria, Myosotis dissitiflora. Red Valerian, Alpine Phlox Vivid, Auricula Yellow Beauty, Iberis serapervirens, Jas- minum nudiflorum, Schizostylis coccinea and manv others. — E. J. Li.ovn Epwards. January 3, 1914.] THE GARDEN. Corydalis thalictrifolia.— This charming plant, so well portrayed in your issue of December 13, page 631, is of more than passing interest. Though introduced in igoo by Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons from China through their collector IMr. E. H. Wilson, it is not so generally grown as it deserves to be. It makes a pretty plant for the rock garden, but it can only be regarded as half-hardy. Its elegant foliage and pale yellow flowers make it a charming subject for edging groups of plants in the cooi greenhouse ; it also has the merit of re- maining in good condition for a long time. It is not so generally lino%vn that it is an excellent subject for house furnishing, as it keeps in a good state for weeks, even imder the adverse conditions that obtain in London. Its cultivation presents no difficulty, as it is easily raised from seeds sown in a cold frame or greenhouse, while at all stages of its growth it requires quite cool treatment. It should prove a very useful subject for the amateur with a small greenhouse. ^Ian. The Horseshoe Fern. — In your answer to " IMrs. J. B. L.," page 628, December 13, you state that this Fern is unknown to you. For the beneiit of your correspondent allow me to say that it is a name sometimes applied to the New Zealand Trichomanes reniforme, which is, however, more often known as the Kidney Fern. Unlike the other members of the genus to which it belongs, the fronds are quite simple, that is, not divided in any way. They are from 2 inches to 4 inches broad, of a transparent nature, and supported on stems from 4 inches to 6 inches in height. The individual fronds are kidney-shaped, with a deep notch at the base. This Trichomanes belongs to the class known as Filmy Ferns, and thrives best in a dose, moisture- laden atmosphere, such as under a hand-light or in a close case in a fernery kept at a greenhouse temperature, while it may also be grown in a Wardian case in a room. Shade from sunshine in any way is very necessary. It thrives best in a mixture of fibrous peat and soft sandstone with a little sand, and needs a liberal quantity of water. — H. P. Chrysanthemum Elegance. — Re " Caledonia's " note on single-flowered Chrysanthemum Elegance in your issue of November 29, page 595, I may say I grew this variety some years ago, but dis- carded it, as it was too late in flowering for this district. In notes on early-flowering Chrysanthe- mums in a Scottish contemporary in November, 1905, I stated that Elegance was just showing colour at the time of writing (October 18). Our Scottish climate is, like its coast-line, variable. October varieties suit the seaboard, but in the Midlands we want varieties that will flower from the end of August onwards. Our season is a short one, blooms and buds being sometimes frozen past recovery by the first week in October. This season is an exception, a full harvest being vouch- safed. During the past twenty years' residence here I cannot remember a season so immune from frost. Only one morning was there sufficient (7°) to blacken Dahlias. In the same notes Pink Beauty is classed as too late and Miss Rose too small, both discarded. I remember the stubby growth of Elegance. I would get cuttings either from Messrs. W. Wells and Co. or Messrs. H. J. Jones, probably the latter. — S. H., Stirling, N.B. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. January 13. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meet- ing and Exhibition at Vincent Square, Westminster. January 23. — Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institution's Annual General Meeting at Simpson's, Strand, London. WHICH IS THE GUERNSEY LILYP WE have just read the article on the above plant by Mr. Jacob on page 619 of your issue fur December 13, 1913, and can only say, after reading this and many articles that have appeared in the horticultural Press of late, how regrettable it is that such a useful and interesting family — and one that is so easily accommodated and wliich gives such ample return in pleasure for any trouble taken in growing — should be in such a terrible muddle as regards nomenclature. Unfortunately, Nerines have never been popular flowers. They are admired when in bloom, but have never been greatly sought after, as have the Daffodil and Rose, and tliis want of popularity is the root of the trouble that is now existing over their many names. If you buy a Daffodil and it is wrongly named, though you do not know it yourself, the chances are that yoiu: neighboiur, when looking over the garden wall, can correct the label and is proud of the fact. The same may happen with a wrongly named Rose and many other plants and flowers, because they are popular and well known to every owner of a garden, whether large or small ; but, unfortunately, with the Nerine, though a plant of quite as many parts, it is altogether different. Nerine sarniensis, the true Guernsey Lily, bears umbels of rosy carmine blooms, having neither orange nor scarlet nor salmon blood in them. They glisten somewhat in the sunlight, but not nearly as much as many others of the family. This plant until a few years ago was quite at home in the island of Guernsey, and was to be met with very frequently in the larger as well as in the cottage garden ; but, alas ! it is now very scarce, and becoming more so as each year rolls by. It is, perhaps, more than most Nerines very opposed to moving, neither does it like confinement, and on this account is not such a good pot plant as are many of the others. One of the reasons, we believe, for so many totally distinct Nerines being named alike is that they are so awfully slow to propagate by offsets, but quick by seed, and a very large, number of people, having a great liking for seeds and their raising, and having been enraptured with someone else's Nerines, have asked for seed of them, and when the seedlings have flowered they are named as the donor has named bis. Mr. Jacob says his blooms of N. sarniensis — and we believe he has the true variety, judging from the description he gives of his flowers ; we mean the blooms from the bulbs bought in Guernsey — were called rosea. This surely means that it is a variety (sport or hybrid) of sarniensis ; but we think that such a name as rosea being applied to a variety of a rosy carmine plant is very misleading, and only tends to confuse growers, as the difference between a rosy carmine, under certain conditions of growth, at certain seasons and by certain lights, and a rosea is not sufficiently distinct, and suggests, again, that it is a seedling or sport, which for some better name the owner has called rosea, not knowing what it is from or what its parent was like. We think, now that the Nerine is being taken up in earnest, it is quite time that some classifi- cation was started. Guernsey. Sarniensis. SEASONABLE NOTES ON AURICULAS. Jk T one time the Auricula was largely f\ cultivated, especially by amateurs, / % but for some reason it ceased to / % be popular. Now, however, there ' * are unmistakable signs that it is once more in the ascendant. For the Outdoor Garden. — The Auricula is an ideal subject for the amateur, who may either grow it in the border or in unheated frames. Two varieties, viz., Celtic King and the yellow Queen Alexandra, are splendid for the open border, the latter producing a iine effect when planted in small groups ; but it is much improved by frame culture. As a Frame Plant. — I fully recognise the value of the Auricula for the border and cottagers' window-boxes, but to secure the finest results a cold house or frame is necessary, especially if we wish to exhibit or ciUtivate what is known as the show section, which embraces the selfs, green- edged, grey-eyed and white-edged. The Position of the Frame should, if possible, be on the south side of a building during the dull period of the year, say, from October to March ; but in summer a north aspect is preferable. In spite of some old writers, there are few, if any, secrets regarding the cultivation of these beautiful flowers. The principal factors are a sweet rooting medium, cleanliness, and careful watering at all times. Plants During January. — For the last two months little attention has been needed beyond giving plenty of ventilation and keeping the plants as dry as possible overhead and at the root without their becoming dust dry. Similar treatment will be required during the month of January ; but if the weather remains open and tolerably dry, a little more water may be given at the roots, as the plants will now be preparing to awaken from their resting period. Woolly aphis and green fly are the chief insect pests, and directly these are seen the frame ought to be vaporised with XL All. The latter pest is easily destroyed, but the former is more difficult to dispose of. A little methylated spirit or tobacco powder will Idll all that congre- gate around the stems of the plants and on the surface of the soil if the fumigation does not prove effectual. Roots Decaying. — It sometimes happens that a plant (particularly through the winter months) looks sickly, and if we examine that example we shall find that the tap-root has begun to decay at the bottom and the decay is gradually working up through the plant. As a rule, it can be easily lifted out of the soU, when the rotten portion must be cut away, and, ■ after some powdered charcoal or lime has been placed over the wound, the plant should be put into a small pot, where it will soon recover if carefully watered. Some Good Varieties. — Most firms offer Auriculas fairly cheap if purchased by the dozen and the selection is left to them ; but for the unirutiated I append a list of usefifl and easily grown sorts. Alpine — Argus, Bluebell, Claude Halcro, Duke of York, Firefly, Ganymede, General Buller, Martin Smith, Mrs. H. Turner, Rosy Mom, Teviotdale and Uranie. Show — Henry Wilson, Love Bird, Mrs. Henwood, Colonel Champneys, William Brock- bank, Acme, Heather Bell, Rachel, Favourite, Mikado, Mrs. Phillips and Ruby. T. W. Briscoe. THE GARDEN. [January 3, 1914. PHLOXES AND PENTSTE- after the end of August, put in boxes of sandy soil 11^ f^ HAMPSHIRE GARDEN. 6 inches deep, and, as soon as a little growth shows, MONS FOR LARGE AND the tops are pinched out, so that one gets strong j g^j^g ^p ^^^ NEWER DECORATIVE SMALL GARDENS. cream — almost yellow when first opening — an plants with three or five growths to plant out in spring. They have been grown on the same site ' for six vears (though one does not recommend TOO often those who only have small I this), gardens sit down and bemoan tha The bed is manured with farmyard manure fact, and envy those who have at their in November, hastard-trenched, and left rough disposal broad acres of open land and until about a fortnight before replanting. The woodland glades. It is true that the | pick of the collection is a seedling, edged latter can attempt gardening on a : and flushed with pink (in the way of Rosa more lavish and comprehensive scale than those ' alba), but the groimd coloiu: is a pronounced who have a modest quarter of an acre or even less. Yet in such a limited space many excellent results and a vast amount of pleasiure can be obtained, pro- vided the owner is enthusiastic enough and uses common sense in planning and planting. One of the most interesting and charming gardens of small dimensions that we have seen is at Ditchett, Rom- ford, the residence of Dr. S. Wright, a well-known and highly respected resident, and one who is particu- larly keen on gardening. Although the garden at Ditchett is less than a quarter of an acre in size, it is filled from spring until winter with interesting, beautiful, and often rare flowers. Roses, Delphiniums, Phloxes and Pentstemons are his favourites, and the last two named are as fine as, or even a little better than, any we have ever seen. The bed shown in one of the illustrations was so good and so full ot flowers that the camera could not penetrate to the interior ; but enough are shown to indicate how well these Pentstemons were doing. Phloxes, as will be seen in another illustra- tion, were also wonderfully good ; and with a view to assisting those of our readers who may he similarly situated, Dr. Wright has kindly given his methods of cultivation, which are as follow : " The Phloxes are raised annu- ally from cuttings taken in the spring. As soon as the old plants have growths 4 inches long they are thinned down to four, and these tied out on short sticks. The ' thinnings ' are used as cuttings and inserted in boxes of light sandy soil, and, as soon as they are rooted, planted out in a nursery bed. They give good heads of bloom late in the autumn, when the parent plants are over ; they are then planted in a prepared bed and left for two years. About sixty varieties are grown, the best of which are Dr. Konigshofer, Etna, Baron von Dedem, G. A. Strohlein, Tapis Blanc, Griippen Konigin, Majs, Selma, America, Le Mahdi, Mme. Paul Dutric, Embrasement and Goliath. The Pentstemons are all home-raised except one variety (George Home). A bed of seedlings was grown annually for several years and cuttings taken from any that appeared worth propagating. Cuttings are taken as soon as they can be obtained ROSES. [Continued from ]'ol. LXXVIL, page 648.) Mrs. Leonard Petrie (.Mex. Dickson and Sons, iQio). — 1 am inclined to think this is one of the best of the decorative Roses of that somewhat indefinite colour yellow, fading to primrose cream and white. In the bud it is a good distinct colour, flushed on the outside of the petal with carmine. In the fully open flower this becomes pale sulphur to pale cream. The flowers are of good shape. immense flower, tall and strong in growth, every freely produced, of delightful fragrance, and the flower on the spike opening perfectly." plant is an excellent grower and makes an ideal bedding plant. Mrs. Sam Ross (Hugh Dickson, 1912). — I referred to this Rose when writing of the exhibition varieties, but it is too good a garden Rose to leave out here. It is a deeper colour than the last named, being deep chamois yellow, shading to light primrose, with a touch of buff on the outside of the petals \A'hich gives it the deeper colour referred to. Its large, full and well-shaped flowers are very freely produced, and it is quite a good grower ; fragrant. Mrs. Wakefield Christie Miller (S. McGredy and Son. 1909). — This makes a fine splash of colour as seen from a distance, but the flower is more like a large Paeony than a Rose. Still, some people greatly admire it. It is very free- flowering, especially in the autunan, and for an Irish-raised Rose par- ticularly free from mildew. My Maryland (J. Cook, 1909). — .An American-raised variety, and very good imder glass, I am told. It has not been bad out of doors here with me, but it is not as good as Mme. Segond Weber, which it resembles, and I do not think we want them both. There was an excellent table at the autumn show of the National Rose Society of this Rose (from imder glass) that created a good deal of curiosity as to its correct name, and the judges must have fotmd it difficult to decide between it and Melody. Eventually My Maryland was placed second ; but as there exhibited, namely, from under glass, there was no denying its beauty. Old Gold (S. McGredy and Son, 1913).— This is luidoubtedly one of the freest-flowering Roses we have. My small bed of five plants came into flower in May, and I have flowers ot it in front of me as I write in mid-December. I cannot recall passing that bed without seeing some flowers on it during the whole period. The habit of the plant, apparently, is to continually send up fresh shoots, the first flowers of which are out before the last of the previous shoot are over, so that we have at last the true Hybrid Perpetual, although it may also be, and is, a Hybrid Tea. In its early stages the bud might almost be taken for Irish Elegance — slightly deeper in shade, perhaps — and A BORDER OF MIXED FLOWERS IN DR. ROMFORD. S. WRIGHTS GARDEN AT Many of the Delphiniums in this garden are seedlings of Dr. Wright's own raising, and some that we saw earlier in the year were very charming indeed. They included a wide range of colours ; the individual flowers were large and well placed on tall, massive stems that were a sure indication of good cultivation. Other fine herbaceous plants, many of them raised from seed, are Oriental Poppies, inclucUng some unique seedlings* from Jenny Mawson ; Geum Mrs. Bradshaw, varieties of Chrysan- themum maximum, Achillea Ptarmica The Pearl, Heleniums, Statice latifolia, Nepeta Mussinii, Rudbeclda speciosa and perennial Sunflowers. January 3, 1914.] THE GARDEN. bere it is fixed. If the beauty of any Rose is enhanced by the dew on its petals, surely this is the one. I am not going to pretend to describe its colour. Tliose who want to know what it is like must grow it. [A coloured plate of it appeared in the issue for October ii.— Ed.] I have turned up the raisers' description, but even their well-known eloquence for once has failed them. One reads that it created a sensation among all those who saw- its first flowers, so much so that all kinds of schemes as to its future were formulated. Can one doubt that the right solution was arrived at when it was decided to name it Queen Mary ? Southampton. H. E. Molyneu.x. {To be continued.) ROSE -GROWING IN TOWN GARDENS. T A FULL BED OF WELL-GROWN PENTSTEMONS. it is in this stage the flower should be cut and not allowed to develop on the plant, as it lasts a long time in water, If left on the plant, the colour goes quickly, and the main beauty of the flower is lost. The dark bronze foliage sets off the lovely buds and is a fine contrast. An excellent grower. The flowers are held erect and on strong footstalks that require no artificial aids or wiring to keep them erect when cut. It is not a single, but has very few petals (after the style of Mrs. Alfred Tate). Quite mildew-proof here, fragrant, and strongly recommended. Ophelia (William Paul and Son, 1912). — I lirst saw this Rose at the Chelsea International E.xhibition of r9i2, and was much taken with its refined shape and appearance. It is, in fact, almost Tea-like in both. Colour, pale flesh, flushed rose. It is not a large flower, but a very beautiful one. Not unlike Margaret, but paler. Queen Mary (Alex. Dickson and Sons, r9i3). — To my way of thinking this is the Rose of the year, and not only of the year ; I am not sirre it would not get my vote as the most beautiful of all Roses. Only those who have grown it can know how very beautiful it is. The large tripod of flowers that were put up when it secured the gold medal were not really typical ; they were, in fact, grown under glass, and lacked the delicate refinement of the more naturally-grown blooms. In fact, I saw them com mented on as not unlike Juliet ! I myself carmot see any resemblance. I once heard a discussion between two well-known rosarians as to the respec five merits of Mildred Grant and, I think. White Maman Cochet. The Tea man closed the discussion by calling Mildred Grant " a bold, brazen-faced hussy." That is perhaps an unfair description of Juliet — but ! The only thing in common between the two Roses is that they are both bicolors ; there the resemblance ends. Queen Mary opens up a new vista for us. An artist has been at work with an entirely new method of applying his colours. There is nothing quite like it in the Rose world. One has seen fleeting glimpses of it perhaps in an imusually highly coloured flower here or a chance bloom there, but HE average tovm gardener is apt to become a little wearied by the repetition of some dozen names, which constitute the official list of town Roses. Certainly he never does limit his selection solely to these varieties, and taste alone determines his final choice. For as the grower becomes more expert his ambition increases, and often he is tempted to try varieties with which the chances of success are small. But a town garden, intelligently looked after, gives better results than one in the country in which Roses are left to grow themselves ; and, given a moderately open position, the number of sorts that can be made to thrive in the neighbourhood cf large cities is limited only by the space at the gardener's disposal and willingness to plant. BORDERS OF HERBACEOUS PHLOXES IN A SMALL GARDEN. THE GARDEN. [January 3, 1914. The Best Varieties to Plant. — The Hybrid Tea Roses fumish most of the best varieties tor town culture, and each year sees the addition of many striking novelties to this section, already the largest, as it is the most popular, and the one best suited to this climate. In the selection of Roses for to-wns issued by the National Rose Society, the following Hybrid Teas are included : Caroline Testout, Dr. O'Donel Browne, Gustav Griinenvald, J. B. Clark, La Tosca, Mme. Abel Chatenay, Mme. Ravary and Prince de Bulgarie. It goes without saying that the considered opinion of such a body of experts is beyond contradiction, and, for general purposes, there is no doubt this list represents the front rank of town Roses. All are well-known and popular sorts, and few com- ments are needed. Of the varieties named, only the first four are suitable for exhibition. Prince de Bulgarie and J. B. Clark appear in the list for the first time in the society's catalogue for I9r4. The former is a pretty decorative Rose with fine glossy foliage and of branching growth. The colour being deep rose pink. Of vigorous growth, shapely in habit and fragrant, it flowers very freely throughout the season, and is a fine exhibition variety. Miss Cjmthia Forde is rather like a deeply coloured Caroline Testout, and though perhaps a little inferior to that variety in size of bloom, is of far better shape, and has not the vice of occasionally balling over. Mrs. Da%'id McKee, an excellent large-flowered yellow, is very free-blooming and of fine habit, and makes a good town Rose. Joseph Hill is also good, hoth in blossom and foliage, though not quite so free- flowering as the last named, and rather addicted to mildew, though not badh'. Mme. Melanie Soupert is becoming increasingly popular in town gardens, and justly so. It is excellent in every way, except that it has also a slight tendency to mildew, which requires to be checked. Its fine foliage, spreading growth and freedom of flowering render it ideal as a garden Rose, and it is quite in the front rank for exhibition. Though not described as yellow, that is the colour most is Erica mediterranea hybrida. It rarely exceeds a foot in height, and often only reaches a modest 6 inches, making neat tufts of green, branching stems and foliage that from December until well into February are smothered with rose pink flowers It is quite hardy, and appears to do well anywhere, sho\ving preference for a half-shady position in a sandy peat soil. However, peat is not essential, for, like other Heaths, it will thrive in loamy soil to which leaf-mould has been freely added. The one element to which most members of the Heath family object is lime, and it is almost hopeless to try to establish a Heath garden in a very chalky soil. SOME GOOD EVERGREEN HEDGE PLANTS. A Bi;.-\UTIFUL WINTER-FLOWERING HEATH : ERIC.\ MEDITERRANEA HYBRIDA. The photogmph was taken a iveck before C'fuistmaf:. is very variable, ranging from the palest pink to almost an orange shade. J. B. Clark is what is termea a rampant grower, and is difficult to manage. It is quite unsuitable for bedding, by reason of its size, and, unless required for exhibition, should l)e pegged down or treated as a pillar Rose. Though usually the flower is coarse, it is still the best red Hybrid Tea for general purposes. La Tosca is also a tall grower, though not, like J. B. Clark, an ugly one. It is a most accommodating Rose, and invariably gives a good accoimt of itself, no matter how poor the soil may be, but requires a good deal of room. The other varieties are all of medium height. Newer Varieties. — As they become established in popular favour, no doubt some of the newer sorts will find their way into the National Rose Society's list. Two that seem to deserve that honour are Lady Alice Stanley and Miss Cynthia Forde. The former is one of the most reliable Roses. In colour it is silvery pink, the reverse of petals frequently seen in it, the delightful suffusion of amethyst in the young flowers being very fleeting. Rayon d'Or may prove a great acquisition when robust plants are obtainable at a moderate price, if its unfortimate habit of dying back is due only to over-propagation, as is so often the case with new varieties. But it certainly seems to have this weakness in its constitution. Duchess of Wellington is a beautiful decorative yellow, capable of becoming a success in many town gardens. With other varieties I will deal in my next article. P. L. Goddard. A HARDY WINTER-FLOWERING HEATH. {Erica mediterranea hvbrid.\.) The great charm of the Heath garden is that it provides flowers the whole year round, and this is one reason why Heaths are so rapidly coming into favour. The best of all the winter Heaths The following m^tes direct attention to a number of useful hedge plants with persistent foliage which are suitable for general culture in the British Isles or for certain areas thereof. Attention is drawn to any little peculiarities of culture which particular subjects may require under the respective headings, while those plants are also indicated which are only suitable for certain localities : Common Holly (Ilex Aquifolium). — There can be no doubt that this is one of the best of all ever- "* green hedge plants, for not only "^ ^ does it form an impenetrable fence ,j(^ which keeps in good condition for a very long period, but it presents a pleasing appearance also. Although large plants may be used for hedges, it is usually better to start with those which are grown from 2 feet to 4 feet high. Care must be taken that they are well furnished with branches to the base, for if the hedge is commenced with a thin bottom, it is very diflicult to induce it to fumish well afterwards. The plants should be inserted from i foot to rj feet apart, and it is usually advisable to remove the points of the shoots soon after planting. Do not allow much height growth until the lower parts of the hedge are quite dense. Planting may be carried out in April or September. Other kinds of Hollies are sometimes used for hedges, such as those with golden and silver foliage and the large-leaved Hodgin's Holly. The former kinds are quite appropriate for some positions, but large-leaved sorts are generally inferior to the common Holly. Common Yew (Taxus baccata) is another useful hedge plant, which lasts in good condition for a very long time. In fact. Yew hedges may be seen flourishing at the present time which were planted over a centun,' ago. The Yew, like the Holly, thrives on a great variety of soils, and may be planted throughout the country except where the ground is water-logged. It takes rather a long while in establishing itself, but when it once becomes thoroughly established, growth is fairly rapid. Some people prefer plants raised from cuttings rather than those grown from seeds, owing to greater uniformity of growth. Plant at the time recommended for Holly. January 3, 1914.] THE GARDEN. Oval-leaved Privet {Ligustmm ovalifolmm). — Although this plant is overdone in many places, it cannot be overlooked, for it grows into a fine fence quicker than any other subject, and it is very cheap. Its leaves are evergreen in most places, although in some of the colder districts they may be shed during a cold winter. If plants a couple of feet high are placed from r2 inches to 15 inches apart, a good hedge will result in three or four years' time. It is a good plan to cut the plants back for a distance of from 9 inches to 12 inches during the first year, and afterwards check height growth until the sides are quite dense. Any kind of soil is suitable if manure is applied, and planting may take place any time between early September and April. The golden-leaved variety of this species is also available. Holm Oak (Quercus Ilex). — This tree is not often used for hedges, although it is excellent for the purpose in the milder parts of the country. It stands clipping well, and forms a dense hedge up to t5 feet or 20 feet high. More- over, it withstands exposure to sea air very well. Being a diffi- cult subject to transplant, il must be planted while quite small, the best periods being late April and early May and September. Berberis Darwinii may be used for hedges in the Midlands and South, but it should be treated in an informal manner rather than as a very formal hedge, for although it with- stands a fair amount of clipping, constant pruning is likely to cause it to become thin about the lower parts. B. stenophylla may be used in a similar manner. As a rule, one pruning a year, as soon as the flowers fall, suffices. They thrive in any good garden soil. Escallonia macrantha. — There are few better hedge plants than this for the South-West Coimties, in places where great strength is unnecessary. It forms a very nice hedge from 5 feet to 6 feet high, and may be kept at a width , of from 12 inches to 15 inches. Its dark green foliage and pretty, rose-coloured flowers are equally admired. Few plants stand sea air so well or establish themselves better. Planting may be carried on from September to April. Olearia Haastii is another shrub which is well worth consideration. It gives excellent results in the vicinity of the sea, and also inland. An annual pruning serves to keep it quite dense and within bounds. This pruning should be given as soon as the flowers fade, for by pruning at that time the dead flowers are removed, which otherwise are rather unsightly. It is at its best when allowed to grow from 2j feet to 3^ feet high. Planting may be carried on at any period during autumn, mnter or early spring. Common Laurel (Prunus Laurocerasus). — This is utilised as a hedge plant in some places, but it is not one of the most satisfactory subjects, for it is very apt to become thin about the bottom, and the large leaves look very unsightly if disfigured during the clipping. As a rule, such hedges are usually pruned with knives or secateurs, which. of course, adds considerably to the labour. The Laurel has an advantage, inasmuch as it thrives in poor, sandy soil, and may be planted in shade. Lawson's Cypress (Cupressus lawsoniana) intro- duces a coniferous tree which is sometimes used for fancy hedges. It cannot be strongly recom- mended, for it is very difficult to keep it well furnished with branches about the lower parts. Its great value is as a wind-break. The same remarks apply to Thuya plicata, or T. gigantea as it is frequently called. Both trees are imsuitable for dry soils and an impure atmosphere. Common Spruce (Picea excelsa). — Although this tree cannot be recommended for general planting, it is well worth consideration for exposed positions on high land, more particularly where the ground the innumerable other flowers borne out of season owing to the mild weather so far experienced. With the exception of varieties and hybrids of garden origin, practically all of the shrubby Veronicas are natives of New Zealand. No fewer than ten distinct Veronicas are enumerated in the list of December - flowering plants at Goodwood, issued by the Duke of Richmond and published in our issue of December 20, 1913. Probably the species that has given the best account of itself is V. Andersonii and its variety variegata, both of which still flower profusely in many parts of the country. The illustration of V. macrocarpa is prepared from a photograph taken in a Surrey garden on Decem- ber r8, where it had been flowering for some weeks past. The graceful V. salicifolia, with Willow-like leaves, together with V. buxifolia, with Box-like leaves, are also flowering freely this winter. There are certain flowers, like the yellow Jasmine, Winter Sweet and Witch Hazels, that we look for annually among our garden shrubs, but this season we find the list so far extended as to include not only Veronicas, but Roses, Rhododendrons, Cyti- suses, Hypericums, Rosemary, Solanum jasminoides and Spirseas in variety. COLOURED PLATE PLATE 1484. I VERONICA MACROCARPA FLOWERING IN A SURREY GARDEN DECEMBER. is inclined to be wet. In addition to forming good, rough shelter hedges, it is also useful for wind- breaks in nurseries and other gardens. The North American White Spruce (P. alba) and the Sitka Spruce (P. sitchensis) may be used for similar purposes. All three should be planted when between i foot and 2 feet in height. SHRUBBY VERONICAS FLOWERING IN WINTER. All through December, in suburban and country gardens alike, certain of the shrubby Veronicas have been flowering in their full glory. So con- spicuous are they in many gardens that they appear to command even more attention than GARDENING WITH ANNUALS. F among the readers of The Garden there are any in doubt as to the value or possibility of gardening with annuals alone, they have only to turn to the beautiful coloured plate in the present issue to have their minds disabused on the subject for all time. Surely no greater evidence than this could be forthcoming, save that of the garden itself, which also, naturally, would pay higher tribute to colour beauty and good effect than is possible otherwise. Minus the garden, how- ever, the coloured plate — the colour photograph of which was taken in the gardens of the Right Hon. the Countess of Eldon, TUehurst, near Reading — plays its part uncommonly well, showing to perfection and great naturalness not a few of the flowers grown. Happily, the setting is an ideal one, grass verge, tree and hedgerow mirroring into fullest life and beauty all that is best in these easily grown plants. Happily, too, among hardy and half-hardy annuals there is a choice sufiiciently large to suit aU gardens, their endless colour shades and variable heights only finding a parallel in the continuous flowering of the plants. Hence we may garden with the gayest and tallest of these flowers, or in smaller areas confine our efforts to the little-known, though not less beautiful, lands which attain but a few inches high. Or we may garden with some of the more important or exten- sive families alone, some, like the Snapdragons IN THE GARDEN. [January 3, 1914. (Antirrhinums), tiiat in Tom Thumb, inter- [ VVarscewiczii, a plant yielding sheaves of brilliant orange scarlet flowers that compel admiration These are plants to garden with, since, while affording sheets of flowers, they also raise the annual to the topmost rung of Popularity's ladder. E. H. Je.nkins. ANNUALS BY THE PATHS! DE. mediate and tall varieties are capable of affording great galleries of flowers tier above tier in a very remarkable way. Equally remarkable, too, is the fact — not sufSciently appreciated, perhaps — that in each of the sections named identical shades of colour are repeated. These come true from seeds, and are therefore reliable. Of its importance we have on more than one occasion been impressed when looking through the trial grounds of Messrs. Sutton and Sons at Reading, from whose seeds, by the way, the flowers shown in the coloured plate were grown and by whom ' Among the annual flowers of lowly stature these the colour photograph was taken, and it is recorded are many kinds well adapted for growing beside here for the benefit of those who would have the pathways that intersect the garden, where their gardens aglow with colour for weeks on end at a singularly small cost. What is perhaps insufficiently realised in regard to annuals gener- ally is not so much their cheapness or variety as, given certain con- ditions, their possibilities. For ex- ample, the Snapdragon is not strictly an annual, though its greatest garden value is only reached by treating it as such, sowing the seeds in warmth in early February to ensure a blaze of colour in July and August following, with other sowings in succession for later flowering. For borders simi- larly situated to that shown in the accompanying plate, a background might be formed by Sweet Peas in blue, white, scarlet, pink, cream and other shades. By arranging them in isolated, pyramidally trained groups, light and shade would be retained and informality secured. Following these might appear a broad belt of tall crimson Snapdragon, with another of white and a further one of pink of the intermediate class. Fronting these might be arranged Godetias of distinctive colours, than which, perhaps, few plants are half so gay or so profuse in flowering. Then, should space permit and where fragrance is desired — and where is it not ? — a broad belt of Stocks should be formed, to be followed again by a Tom Thumb Antirrhinum and, finally, a brilliant blue Lobelia. Some of these are so faithfully depicted in the coloured plate that they will appeal to all, and for the rest a few suggestions have been added. Where for some special reason a late summer and early autumn display is desired, the Chinese Aster is well worth considering. It is a great family — great in endless colour shades, flower form and varying height ; hence of much utility. A fine attribute of the plant is that it may be transplanted almost at flower-time with impunity, so that, apart from specialisation, it is also a plant for the reserve garden, well suited to filling any blank spaces in the border where earlier-flowering subjects have gone before. Then why do not we make much more of brilliantly flowered plants, Linum grandi- florum and Tom Thumb Nasturtiums for poorest where, on the right, Alyssum Carter's Snow Carpet is forming an edging nearly two feet wde. The seed of this was sown where the plants are shown about the second week in April, and was first about a foot wide, the plants having spread, as already indicated, to nearly twice that distance by the following September, when the photograph was taken. This is one of the best annuals for edg- ings, owing to its dwarf habit, delicious fragrance and long season of flowering. The plants illus- trated commenced to bloom at the end of Jime, and did not cease until November was well under way. On the left is an edging of Godetia Lady Satin Rose. This grew rather less than a foot high and continued to flower over a long period, although not anything like the time that the Alyssum did. It will be seen that it was sown in a row about a foot wide and did not spread much. There are several other dwarf Godetias that might be successfully used for the same purpose. The following annuals are all dwarf and make good edgings, though the flowers of some are rather fugacious : Candytuft, Virginian Stock, Mignonette, Lep- tosiphon hybridus (should have a sunny position), Nemophila in- signis, Dimorphothcca aturantiaca, Silene pendula compacta, Phacelia campauularia and Saponaria cala- brica. H. i^.-Sj^ A COTTAGE HOME IN SOMERSET. Among the counties of England, Somerset is one of the most varied, both as to scenery and geological structure. It has in one part high moorland, in others dense woodland and rich valley, with wide stretches of fertile alluvial land. Limestone, granite and coal are all repre- sented, besides the well-known deposits of valuable building stone. The long coastline to the Severn Sea gives a certain mild- ness and humidity very favour- able to vegetation, and many are the pleasant gardens attached to such dwellings of the cottage type as the one shown in the illustration on the next page, that, roofed with comfortable straw their beautiful colours, and in some instances 1 thatch, nestle in the valleys, well sheltered by delightful fragrance, can be enjoyed to the full, the wooded hills. G. J. In the kitchen garden annuals are particularly . 'h GODETIAS AND WHITE ALYSSUM USED AS EDGINGS TO A PATHWAY. serviceable for this purpose, because during the winter, when it is necessary to wheel manure on to the plots and do other heavy work, the plants have departed, and there is no possibility of damage such as there would be if perennials were used for the purpose. There is one point, however, that always ought to be fully studied in making edgings of annuals, i.e., a broad edging looks infinitely better than the narrow line that one too often finds doing service soils and stony banks, where they are most prodigal ' in gardens. The wisdom of a bold display is in flowering, and last, though not least, Alonsoa well shown in the accompanying illustration. A BEAUTIFUL CLIMBING ANNUAL. IpoMCEA VERSICOLOR, somctimcs known by the name of Mina lob at a, is one of the most beautiful of half-hardy climbing annuals for summer and autumn decoration. The racemes of flowers, which are of a bright rosy crimson m the bud, afterwards turn to orange, finally chang- ing to pale yellow, are borne in profusion at this time of the year. It is a very suitable plant for covering arbours, trellis-work, unsightly walls, ot for trailing up sticks, providing it is in the sun. January 3, 1914] THE GARDEN. THE SWEET PEA IN THE FLOWER GARDEN. THE garden and decorative value of the Sweet Pea has been somewhat over- shadowed by the special attention it has frequently received as an " exhibi- tion " flower ; and, whUe it must never be forgotten that it is owing to the zeal of exhibitors and the keen competition created by them that the raisers vied with each other in pro- ducing the exquisite varieties now grown, yet the Soil and Position. — While the small gardener may not be able to have much choice of position, there is no soil, however poor, which cannot be improved. The most fertile soil is that whose mechanical condition is the finest. All garden soils contain a superabundance of plant food if only it is available, and thus the gardener can, by cultivation, do much to provide a soil in which the roots can have free action, and, given this, the Sweet Pea will flourish. If the soil be light and poor, then a liberal supply of farmyard, and especially cow, manure will help it, while deep digging and incorporating plenty of lime and mortar rubble. Sweet Pea to the full in the flower garden. It is most effective when grown in clumps, and clumps are very suitable for small gardens. Of course, many people like a continuous row, and if arranged with special regard to colour blending, a delightful result can be obtained. Let me here state that a motley mixture affords me no pleasure ; hence my strong advocacy of colour blending. The following twelve varieties, planted in a row, make a pleasing combination : Mauve, Tennant Spencer ; white, Etta Dyke ; deep cream pink, Constance Oliver ; lavender, Florence Nightingale ; cream, I Clara Curtis ; pale pink. Countess Spencer ; blue AN OLD THATCHED COTTAGE, VVITH GARDEN, IN SOMERSETSHIRE. Sweet Pea is first and essentially a " decorative " flower, and one which adorns with equal grace and beauty the garden of the cottage or the mansion, and also one that will thrive and pro- duce a wealth of blossom in almost every kind of soil, and often in most unfavourable positions. The value of such a flower for those whose gardens and resources are limited cannot be over-estimated, and it is to such that these notes are mainly directed. Undoubtedly the " high culture" advocated by exhi- bitors has been a hindrance to the universal accept- ance of the Sweet Pea as an indispensable item in every garden, and the high price of seed has also con- tributed thereto. These hindrances no longer exist, combined with winter frosts, will break up the heaviest of clays. Preparing the Soil. — This work should be done only when the soil is in good condition. Deep digging and thorough cultivation are essential. It is wise to get the ground ready as early in the autumn as possible ; yet it is far better to wait for a dry February than to attempt deep digging during wet weather. Varieties. — -For garden and decorative use, those varieties which by experience have been proved to be of sterling merit and not novelties should be grown. The small grower has now nothing to prevent him from utilising the shades. Flora Norton Spencer ; picotee (white ground), Elsie Herbert ; crimson, Maud Holmes ; lilac. Winsome ; bicolor, Mrs. A. Ireland ; and dark maroon, Nubian. Sweet Peas in Clumps. — In this way the finest combinations and effects are seen. Plant in trian- gular form (five plants will make a clump), and some very beautiful results will reward the effort. Cream, lavender and pale pink ; maroon, lavender and bicolor (Mrs. Ireland) ; mauve, white picotee and cream ; crimson, white and blue ; French grey, mauve and white — these and many other combina- tions which appeal to each individual can be had. The following excellent varieties can all be obtained 10 THE GARDEN. [January 3, 1914. THE HERBACEOUS OR M IXED BORDER. H U W 1 U o ^m?/^/ \ YEW HEDGE AT BACK OF BORDER, SHOWING HOW IT IS TRIMMED AND ROOT PRUNED. A — Narrow trenches 1 foot deep. B, B — The spade is thrust down on lines, severing all roots in its way. C — Flower border. D — Alley. E — Space in which tfte roots are confined. in cheap packets : Apple Blossom Spencer, Asta Ohn, Clara Curtis, Constance Oliver, Countess Spencer, Elsie Herbert, Etta Dyke, Flora Norton Spencer, Florence Nightingale, Frank Dolby, John Ingman, Maud Holmes, Mrs. Ireland, Mrs. H. Sykes, Mrs. C. W. Breadmore, Mrs. Townsend, Nubian, Tennant Spencer, Winsome and Lady Grisel Hamilton, Lord Nelson and Dorothy Eckford of the grandiflora varieties. It will be noticed that I have excluded all those varieties which require shading and protection from the inclement weather in order to produce their true colours, as such varieties cannot be classed " useful garden flowers." Of the Sweet Pea from the floral decora- tive point of view much can be written, as few flowers lend themselves more readily for the table decoration, the button-hole or the bouquet, &c., and to a Sweet Pea lover no present is nicer than a bunch of these lovely flowers. The Sowing of Seed : Spring Sowing. — Space does not permit of a full treatment of the relative values of autumn or spring sowing, or of outdoor or indoor sowing. Suffice it now to say that the most satisfactory method for the small grower is to raise the seedlings in a 5-inch pot, which will well hold the five seeds of each variety grown. In January or February sow in good soil half an inch deep, with sufficient sand to keep the soil open. The seeds with whitish coats require more sand than the others, and less water, as they do not germinate so well and rot more easily. Place near the Ughts directly the seedlings appear, and give cool treatment until mid- April, when they can be transplanted into their permanent quarters. Staking. — This subject will receive special treat- ment in a separate article shortly ; but for the small garden, the tallest and twiggiest of Hazel sticks form the most artistic and satisfactory supports. During the summer keep the hoe going to check both weeds and evaporation, and rigidly use the knife in denuding the plants of every faded blossom before the seed pod can form. In this way the supply of blossoms can be continued well into the autumn, and the Sweet Pea will prove itself to be the Queen of Annuals, and one pre-eminently suited to small gardens as well as to those of tlie mansion. S. M. Crow. HOW TO MAKE AND MAINTAIN IT. INION tends to the word " her- baceous " being used as a general term to include plants hardy and semi-tender, evergreen and suffruti- cose, fibrous and bulbous rooted, of annual, biennial and perennial duration, the one requirement of importance being suitability for decorative gardening. At a not far distant date it required some courage to define a Lily or an annual Lobelia as herbaceous, and perhaps Dr. Samuel Johnson's definition " belonging to an herb," just as a herbaceous animal was one whose food was herbs, in contradistinction to a carnivorous or flesh-eating animal, gives the original meaning. Earlier tlian Dr. Johnson were " annuals, perannuals and vivacious " plants, all now fitly comprehended m the one name — herbaceous. Somewhat similarly the herba- ceous border has become the receptacle of a greater number of plants of diversified characteristics than practitioners a century ago knew of. And it is to those who boldly introduced Dahlias, Roses, Sweet Peas, Pansies and other odds and ends of the vegetable kingdom into their borders that we are indebted for the breaking down of the wall of partition between the old-time strictly herbaceous border and the modem border and garden of all sorts. These remarks lead me to say that in the notes which follow there will be formd no arbitrary botanical distinctions, so long as plants provide their quota of beauty of colour or of form, or both, that will be esteemed a sufficiently good reason to include them among herbaceous plants. Position is of slight importance. Any exposure suits, but the plants flower earlier or later accord- ingly, and late-flowering species should never be planted where the chances are against them flowering at all. Shelter from wind is very important, and where there is none it must be pro- vided. A wall is not nearly so protective as a tall hedge or living screen, which disintegrates the volumes of forceful air into minute and impotent particles, whereas the wind sweeps over a wall in gusts, which, swirling among the plants, twist them about confusedly. The wall itself ought, therefore, to be pro- tected by efficient vegetation. In connection with shelter, that of a proper backing may be considered. The handsomest in summer is a tall trellis furnished with Roses, or with these and other climbers, the co.rrivc thsy may remain unpacked, but kept in the mat- ting until they are to be planted. Afterwards do not mulch with heavy farmyard manure. This is apt to keep the soil 'cold and wet; indeed, I believe we lose more Roses through this cause than from any other. A few pieces of Bracken or other dry material will be all that is neccssarv to protect them from frost. Plants Under Glass. Carnations. — The greatest possible care should be exercised in watering at this season, particularly those of the Malmaison type. Over-watering at this time often leads to rust, which should be guarded against at all costs. Indeed, tmtil about the middle of next month very little water will be required. Admit air freely, and only use fire- heat on damp, foggy days. Carnation Rust. — Keep a snarp look-out for the Carnation rust, which makes its appearance at this season and spreads with alarming rapidity. .•\s soon as any spots are detected, cut away the affected grass and bum it. Cuttings of the Perpetual-flowering varieties should be inserted new. Better results will, in all probability, be obtained from cuttings rooted now than from those rooted earlier. For rooting I find nothing better than boxes filled with pure sand and placed in a house where there is a little bottom-heat. Should the cuttings be sturdy, they will not require to be covered with glass. Late Chrysanthemums will still provide a fair amoimt of flowers, but provision must be made to keep up the supply. Place a few Azalea mollis and Lilacs into heat, and I'reesias may be gently forced. Cyclamen, — I know of no plants that give more satisfaction at this season of the year than some well-grown Cyclamen, the variety Salmon Queen being particularly attractive. Begonia Gloire dc Lorraine will be getting over, and should be partly cut back and kept on the dry side for a time. Plants that have been used for house decoration are seldom much good for producing cuttings, and it will be just as well to do away with them at once. Violets in Frames. — In unheated structures the greatest care should be taken in admitting air, and see that all decayed leaves are picked oft' and burnt. Keep pinching rimners off, and stir the soil between the plants frequently with a hand- fork. I find a sprmlding of ground lime betxveen the plants tends to keep them in a healthy, growing state. Fruits Under Glass. Peaches. — No time should oe lost in com- pleting the washing of the houses and trees and tying up the shoots, as the buds soon begm to swell with the increased sim-heat. In arranging the shoots, overcrowding cannot be too strongly condemned ; 4 inches between the shoots will be a good guide. After attending to the border, finish up by giving the pipes a coating of lamp- black ; it gives the house a much cleaner appear- ance, besides preserving the pipes. Vines. — By this time most of the work in the vineries should be completed. Unless in the case of rods infested with mealy bug, the scraping of them, even with a blunt knife, should never be resorted to. All that is required is to rub off any loose bark with the hand. Painting the Rods. — I know of nothing more efiectual than a mixture of soft soap, sulphur and a little petroleum, mixed in boiling water, for this purpose. Brush this well into the rods and spurs with a stiff paint brush, which should destroy any eggs that may be lodged there ; besides, this preparation is an excellent preventive in warding off red spider. John Highg.ite, (Gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow) Hopetoun Gardens, Soulh Qnccnsferry, N.li. January 3, 1914. THE GARDEN. 15 VEGETABLE SEEDS FOR SPRING AND SUCCES- SIONAL SOWING. WITH such a host of varieties of vege- tables it must be extremely per- plexing to many, and especially to those who are amateurs, to decide which to select when pre- paring the seed order at this season ; consequently a list of standard varieties, as mentioned below, and the time for sowing, with other particulars, may, I trust, be of some service to those who have not had the opportunity, as some of us have, of testing the varieties named. At the same time, I should like it to be clearly under- stood that some localities and soils are more suited to certain sorts than others, and, to a certain extent, common sense must be the guiding factor as to this ; the same applies to the dates of sowing and the conditions of the weather and soil. It should always be borne in mind that it costs just as much to cultivate inferior varieties as it does the better ones, and though the initial cost of the seeds may be slightly more, the results will more than compensate for the extra outlay. Preparation of the Soil. — It is of the utmost importance that the ground in all cases should be well drained and deeply and well worked during the winter and early spring. Light, porous soil is best trenched or deeply dug during the autumn and winter, while that of a stiff, retentive nature is better when worked in early spring. Everything should be done, as far as possible, to ensure a fine tilth by the time for seed-sowing. Though dates are given, it must not be assumed that it is im- perative for sowing the seed strictly at such time. The weather, of course, has to be considered as well as the nature of the soil. It is far better to wait for two or even three weeks than to make any attempt, especially on stiff, pasty soils, to sow fine seeds. At the same time, no opportunity should be missed for so douig. Probably the most common mistake made in relation to vegetable culture is sowing the seed too thickly ; this is a fault which applies not only to the cottager and amateur, but very largely to professional gardeners. All sorts of excuses are raised for so doing ; but, providing the soil is good, as it should be, I have never yet found a satisfactory excuse. It is a mere waste of seed, and overcrowding means in all cases imsatisfactory results. A golden rule, and one I have always tried to follow, is to sow just about as thick again as is needed, and thin to the desired distance as soon as the crop is practically assured. GARDENING ACROSTICS. Those entering for the acrostics must observe the rules published on page 607 of the issue of December 6, 1913. DOUBLE ACROSTIC No. 5. A beautiful hardy spring-flowering shrub whose shoots are wreathed, when well grown, with golden bells. Firsts — Its generic name. Lasts — A synonym of its more usual name. 1. The surname of the author of what is tlie most beautiful of all herbals." 2. The hardiest Daisy Tree. 3. Once used as a charm ; hence my popular name. 4. Not quite. 5. Sacred in the Flowery Land. Its colour and its name. 6. A charm — text and symbol. 7. The result of mating two species of the same genus. specific ' perhaps 8. " The King of Irises." 9. Hyacinthus non-scriptus. Why ? What is supposed to be wanting ? Solutions of the foregoing must be sent so as to reach the Editor at 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C., not later than the first post on Saturday, January 10. Mark the envelope "Acrostic" in the top left-hand corner. SOLUTION AND ACROSTIC Firsts — " Ars Topiaria." Lasts — La Fragonine. NOTES No. 3. tt M §§ A R S T O P 1 A R 1 A NDREW Marvel OF L A F R A G O N I N E Name of Variety. Wlien to Sow. W/tere to Soil). Open ground . . . . DixU-ince between Hows. aft 8tt 10ft. . 7ft. Warm border 4ft 4 to Sin. Soutfi Open ground 4ft oin Any open Soutli . . Any open , Warm border Open 3ft. round 10 to 12 15in. . 16in. . Cold frame 3ft. . . . Open ground 3ft. . . . ,, 3ft. ... 3ft. Cold frame 3ft. 2ft. Pea Gradus March and April Pea Duke of Albany .... First week in April Pea Quite Content Middle of April .... Pea Autocrat May and June .... Broad Bean Leviathan . . February and March Broad Bean Broad Windsor April and May .... French Beau Dwarf Canadian Wonder .... .Middle of May .... llxmner Bean Scarlet Emperor ,, ,, .... Beet Globe Early April Beet Dell's Red First week in May Broccoli Michaelmas White First week in April Broccoli Christmas White Second week in April Broccoli Model Middle week in April Broccoh Dwarf Green Curled Brussels Sprout Dwarf Gem Middle week in March Cabbage Ellam's Early . . End of July Open Cabbage Rosette May ,, Savoy Drumhead April ,, Cauliflower Walchereu .. Middle of September Open, winter in frames Cauliflower Magnum Bonum .March Gentle heat under glass Cauliflower Early Giant . . April Open Carrot Early Nantes .... March , Carrot New Intermediate April , Celery Invincible 'nTiite . . February to March Gentle heat under glass Celery Aldenham Pink . . March ,, ,, Leek Prizetaker January ,, ,, Vegetable Marrow Moore's Cream April In heat under glass Vegetable Marrow Long Green ,, ,. Onion James' March, early Open ground 12in, Onion Nuneham Park ... . ,, ,, ,, ,, ]2in Onion Globe Tripoli .... Third week in Aug. ,, ,, 12in, Parsnip Tender and True February ,, ,, 18in. Turnip Early Milan March Open 9in. Turnip Snowball April to September , 12in. Turnip Prizetaker Aug. to Sept 12in, Tomato Sunrise March Under glass, in heat . . 8ft. Potato May Queen . . , Open ground 2ft. Potato Windsor Castle .. .\prU ,, ,, 3ft. Potato Up-to-Date ,, ,, 3ft. Distance between Plants. ■1 to 3in. 3 to 4in. 0 to Sin. 3 to 4in. Aspect. iLVER Lea HOMAS TUSSE LBI OPERIN NDIG COR HODANTHE MaNGLESI NULI N AVENU Firsts — Tile " Ars Topiaria " was introduced to Rome by Matius, the liriend of Julius Caesar. Part of the gardens of Pliny's Tuscan villa was so fashioned. — Johnson's " History of Gardening," pages 23 and 23. Lasts — La Fragonine. Differently-coloured Butcher's Broom has been lately introduced in France by M. Charles Moquet for decorating the garden in winter. * Andrew Marvel], 1621 — 1678. His earlier poems contain much information about the gardens of his day. Among others are " Upon Appleton House," " Tlie Nymph and the Fawn," " The Mower Against Gardens " and " The Garden," of which tliis is tlie last verse, t Jolin Rea, who wrote " Flora, Ceres and Pomona " quite in the style of a modern book on dowers without any refer- ences to the medicinal virtues of the plants he When Ready. Warm, sheltered border Any open Soil .\lniost any June and early July ., .. ' .Middle of July Good, rich soil .... End of July Almost any August and September Good, deeply worked End of June and early July ,. ,, July and August 6iu. 12in. Any Good, deeply tilled July I'irst to second week Aug. 61n Warm border Any End of June and July 9in. 2Jft. 2ift., 2ift.. 2ift. . .\ny open Light to medium . . iliddle of August ,] ,, Any firm September and October ,, ,. ,", ,, November and December , , , , .\pril and Blay ,, , ,, ,, Winter and spring 12in. 2*ft.. 25ft.. 2Jft.. Sft. . lOiu. 15hi. 6ft. . 6ft. . .5ft. . 2ift. . ijft. 12in. 2ft. . 2ft. 2ft. 2ift. . Warm border Any open .... 12ft. 12ft.. 3m 4 to 6in. 12in. . . 12in. . . 12in. . . 6ft 6ft 4 to 6in. 4 to 6in. 6 to 91n. 10m. . . 4 to 6in. 9in 9in 3ft 2Diu. . . 2tt 2ft Warm border Light and sandy Open ,, ,, Any open Good, rich .... Any sheltered, sunny Any good, rich . Any open Very rich March and onwards Autumn and winter June July August and September June Autumn and winter August to November November to Marcli Autumn and winter July till frost Autumn and winter ,, ., Any good Late spring and summer ., , Light and sandy .... Autumn, winter and spring Warm border Poor soil ....." Early June Any open Any 12 to 16 weeks from sowing ,, ,, . , , , ,,* Winter and early spring Sunny, sheltered Any poor August and September Warm, sheltered Any good light .... June Any open ,, ,, .August ,, , ,, .. .... .\utumn, winter and spring Edwin" Beckett. 16 THE GARDEN. [January 3, 1914- describes. t A well-known disease affecting different kinds of trees. See Mr. Lynch's articles in The Garden for November 22 and 29, 1913- § Thomas Tusser, who published in 1557 " An Hundreth Good Pointes of Husbandry," enlarged in 1573 to " Five Hundreth Good Pointes of Husbandry." |1 Lavatera Olbia Award of merit, Royal Horticultural Society, June 18, 1912. Pictured in Vol. XXXVHI., Part 2. of the Journal, and described by John Abercroinbie in his " General System of Trees and Shrubs." H Warden Pears and Popering Pears were two well-known varieties of Shakespeare's time. Leland was Rector of Popering. — Ellacombe's " Plant Lore and Garden Craft of Shakespeare," first edition, page 154. ** The Woad-growers of Germany gave indigo the name of Devil's Dye because it began to take the place of woad in dyeing. — Friend's " Flowers and Flower Lore," page 63. tt The cup of the Acorn is botanically called a cupula, tt Rhodaathe Manglesii is a pretty pink annual, often grown in pots. Its flowers keep their colour a long time when dried. A native of Australia. §§ As starch is stored in cereals and cane sugar in Beetroot, so inulin is stored in Dahlia tubers. |||| Repton was a celebrated landscape gardener of the " natural " school. He seems to have rspecially disliked formal avenues. — Cecil's " History of Gardening in Fjigland," third edition, page 258. RESULT OF ACROSTIC No. 2. In accordance with our rules, eleven marks were possible in this acrostic, one for each correct light and one for each correct " first " and " last." The following marks have been awarded : Eleven marks. — Ernest Ballard, " Tor toise," " Mowgti," R. Chapman, " Shelah," '■ Penwarne," " Rusticus," " Scotia " and " W. R. D." Ten marks. — " Ping," " Tentamen," Wm. Bond, "Tempus Fugit," L. Bigg- Wither, " Miller," " Hero," J. Coupland, " Elm," " Judith," G. Tolson, Miss G. H. Jeffreys, I.. A. Louden, G. B. Bassett, " Rustic," " White Lady," " S. W. P.," G. D. King, " .\nna Olivier," "Nautilus" and Miss Marindin. Nine marks. — " Jan," " E. C. F.," " W. J. W.," " Boarsvale," Miss E. A. Patch, ■■ Westbank," " R. P. B.," " M. M.," A. Henderson, H. J. Giblett and "St. Kevins." Eight marks. — " Briarbank," Wm. Acwurth and " P. P." Seven marks. — Mrs. Devenish. Two marks. — Wm. Slocombe. RESULT OF ACROSTIC No. 3. According to our rules, thirteen marks were possible in this acrostic, one for each correct light and one for each correct " first " and " last." The following marks have been awarded : Twelve marks. — " White Lady," L. A. Louden, " Ping," " Hero," " Westbank," " Nautilus " and " Jan." Eleven marks. — R. Chapman and " Boarsvale." Ten marks. — " Elm," " W. R. D." and " Rusticus." Nine marks. — " Miller" arid Wm. Acworth. Eight marks. — " St. Kevins," " Judith " and G. D. King. Seven marks. — " Tortoise." Five marks. — " W. J. W." Four marks. — " Rustic " and Ernest Ballard. Three marks. — " Tempus Fugit," " Iris " and " Penwarne." One mark. — " M. M." OBITUARY. SIR TREVOR LAWRENCE, BART. IT is with the deepest regret that we have to announce the death of Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart., which occurred late on Monday night, December 22, at his residence, Burford, near Dorking. Sir Trevor was well known in horticultural circles, having for twenty-eight years acted as President to the Royal Horticultural Society, a position which he relinquished so recently as February, r9i2. I whom he came in contact, and by his death horti- culture loses one whom it mil not be easy to replace. We had the pleasure, by special per- mission, of dedicating the sixty-ninth volume of The Garden to him. Sir Trevor leaves a widow, three sons and a daughter, to whom we tender our deepest sympathy. The funeral took place at St. Michael's, Mickle- ham, on Saturday, the 27th ult. Among those present were Lady Lawrence, Sir William and Lady Lawrence, Sir Albert Rollit, Sir Jeremiah Colman, Bart., Lieutenant-Colonel Sir David Prain, Professor Bateson and Mr. Thomas McRow. A memorial service was held at Holy Trinity Church, Kensington Gore, on the same day. Among those who attended this service were the following members of the Council of the Royal Horticultural Society : Baron Bruno von Schroder, Sir Harry J. Veitch, Sir Daniel Morris, Messrs. Arthur W. Sutton, W. A. Bilney, E. A. Bowles, H. B. May and the Rev. W. Wilks (secre- tary). Mr. D. W. Thompson, representing the Royal College of Horticulture, Edin- burgh, was also present. THE LATE SIR TREVOR LAWRENCE, BART. He was bom on December 30, i83r, and was the only surviving son of the first Baronet, William Lawrence, Fellow of the Royal Society and Sergeant-Surgeon to Queen Victoria. Sir Trevor was educated at Winchester, and studied medicine at St. Bartholomew's Hospital, afterwards serving ten years in the Indian Medical Seri'ice, viz., from r853 to 1863, which covered the period of the Mutiny. He was a Member of Parliament from 1875 to 1892, first for the Mid-Surrey Division and later for the Reigate Division. Sir Trevor always took a keen interest in hospital work, and for twelve years acted as treasurer to St. Bartholomew's Hospital. In horticultural circles he was one ol the best-known personages of his day, and to his initia- tive and energy the Royal Horticultural Society owes not a little of its present prosperity. He was a great Orchid enthusiast, and his private collection was one of the best in the country. His genial majiner endeared him to all those with W. COLLINS. With deep regret we have to an- nounce the death of the late esteemed secretary of the United Horticultural Benefit and Provident Society, which took place at 9 p.m. on the 21st ult. Mr. Collins underwent a successful operation for stricture in Novem- ber, and was progressing favourably until about ten days before his death, when he contracted a chill and pleurisy supervened, the end coming quite suddenly and unex- pectedly. Every expression of sympathy and respect was shown when the remains were laid to rest in Streatham Cemetery on Saturday, the 27th ult. The first portion of the Burial Service, which was most impres- sive, was conducted by the Canon at the Church of .Ascension, BaUiam Hill, and thence to the Cemetery, where a large circle of friends had gathered to witness the last rites of their respected friend. Among the numerous and beautiful floral tributes which were sent was a magnificent harp with a broken strmg, " From the Members of the United Horticultural Benefit and Provi- dent Society. A token of respect and esteem for our late Secretary, who for twenty-five years faithfully served the Society." Messrs, J. Wheeler, A. Stan- bridge, E. Burge, T. Winter (treasurer) and A. C. Hill (secretary) represented the societv. JOHN MATTOCK. It is with regret that we announce the death of the well-known rosarian, Mr. John Mattock of Headington, near Oxford. Mr. Mattock was a native of Bath, but moved to Headington about forty years ago, where he grew Roses with marked success. He was particularly successful in the cultivation and exhibition of Tea Roses, the soi 1 of the neighbourhood being specially suited to this section. Mr. Mattock died on December 22 last at the age of seventy-six years. Books Ueceiteu. "The Four Gardens," bv " Handasydi'." I'ublishud lj.v \V. Hclaemann, 21, Bedford Strevt, Straud ; price Os. net. •■ The Herbaceous Garden, ' by .Mrs. IMiilip Martliioau. Published bv Williams and Xornalc 14, H.iirii'tta Stiwt, Covrat Gardrii, W.t'. ; prii-c Vs. lid. n.'l. GARDEN. -^ -yfS'- ^OJ^^ No. 2199.--V0L. LXXVIIT. JANUARY 10, I914. CONTENTS. Notes of the Week 17 Correspondence Laiirustinus lucidus 18 Nevember hardy Chrysanthemums . 18 December lioses . . 19 The Columbines . . 19 Ruddleia Colvill ei flowering outdoors on Christmas Day 19 Forthcoming events . . 19 The herbaceous or mixed border . . . . 19 Fragrant-leaved trees and shrubs . . . . 20 Plant grouping for effect 20 Seasonable notes on vegetables . . . . 21 Silvery leaved plants 21 Two interesting Bell- flowers 21 A beautiful hardy Primula 22 In a Hampshire garden 22 New Rose lona Herd- man 23 Cultural hints on new and rare plants . . 23 Epacrises for winter flowers 24 Seasonable notes on Carnations . . . . 24 Carnation Salmon King 24 Gardening for Beginners How to plan and crop a garden with vege- tables 25 A beautiful plant for hedges 25 Gardening of the Week For Southern gar- dens 26 For Northern gar- dens . . .... 26 The ideal orchard for small houses . . . . 27 Gardening acrostics . . 27 Answers to C! 0 k r k- spondents Flower garden . . 28 Greenhouse . . . . 28 Fruit garden . . . . 28 ^Miscellaneous . . . . 28 NOTES OF THE WEEK. ILLUSTRATIONS. The Prophet Flower IS Phlox : Showing depth to plant 19 Herbaceous flowers in a Sussex garden 20 The grey-leaved Lavender Cotton in rnid\vinter . . 21 Primula pulverulenta Mrs. Berkeley 22 The new gold medal Rose lona Herdman 23 The Perpetual-flowering Carnation Salmon King . . 24 How to plan and crop a garden with vegetables . . 25 EDITORIAL! NOTICBS. Every department of horticulture is repre- sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions relating to matters upon which they wish expert advice. The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes, but he will not be responsible for their sale return. All reasonable care, however, will be taken, and whsre stamps are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted contributions. As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor asks that the. price required for reproduction he plainly stated. It must be distinctly understood that only the actual ph-ito- grapher or ownsr of the copyright will be treated with. The Editor will iwt be responsible for the return of artistic or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden will alone be recognised as acceptance. Offices : 20. Taristock .Street. Corent (larden. IV. C. Our Special New Year Number. — We wish to thank the very many readers who have so kindly sent us letters of appreciation respecting our Special New Year Number, published last week. It is gratifying to know that our efforts are so widely and so warmly appreciated. Mossy Saxifrages in Winter. — At the present time, when most of the occupants of the rock garden are looking far from happy, the brilliant green of the foliage of some of the Mossy Saxi- frages is very pleasing. One of the best in this respect is S. hypnoides gemmifera, which spreads freely and forms a dense carpet of vivid green that contrasts well with the sombre hue of the rocks. S. muscoides and S. decipiens Stembergii are two others that are very effective. An Attractive Berried Shrub. — The majority of Cotoneasters are valued for their attractive fruits, which help to brighten up the garden during the autumn and winter. One of the most valuable for this purpose is Cotoneaster affinis, a deciduous Himalayan species often growing into a good-sized tree, when it is an object of beauty, bearing a large crop of fruits, which are an excellent substitute for Holly berries when there has been a scarcity of them, such as has been the case in some places this year. Primula malacoides. — This charming little Chinese Primula is very highly appreciated, and is quite a feature in many greenhouses with its pale pink flowers. Although it may be hardy, in some districts it flowers so late that it is more satis- factory as a greenhouse plant, being well adapted for that purpose. It is quite easily grown, while its free-flowering habit and the time it remains in bloom, combined with the season of the year it flowers, make it a very valuable plant. The white form, although very pretty, can hardly be con- sidered an improvement on the type. Javanese Rhododendrons. — Unlike all the other Rhododendrons, the various garden forms obtained by the intercrossing of R. jasminiflorum, R. javani- cum and other species, natives of the Malayan Archipelago, flower more or less continuously throughout the year. They are sometimes referred to as greenhouse Rhododendrons, but this is .such an 'elastic term that it conveys but little. If a greenhouse is regarded as a structure from which frost is just excluded and nothing more, it will not be warm enough to do full justice to these beautiful flowers. They need a minimum night temperature of 50° to 55°, with a rise of 10° to 15° during the day ; a fairly moist atmosphere is also necessary to their well-doing. Hippeastrums. — These brilliant greenhouse flowers have been much improved in the hands of the hybridist of late years. The flowers most sought after are of good colour without the green base, and having the perianth so arranged that the segments overlap one another without showing daylight between. The flowering bulbs should now be placed in heat and given every encouragement in the way of top-dressing and subsequent stimulants, in order that they will send up good, strong inflorescences. Strawberry Fruits in December. — While visit- ing the gardens at Amberwood in Hampshire on December 17, we noticed many fine trasses of fruits in various stages of development on plants growing in the open borders. Many flowers were to be seen in various parts of the two large plantations, and or> close inspection it was foimd that both spikes in flower and those bearing fruits were growuig from side crowns or runners very close to the parent plants. Numbers of fruits were as large as Wahiuts. The variety was Royal Sovereign. Roses in Windy Situations. — After the frost experienced a week ago, it will be advisable to look over the Rose-beds, particularly in windy situations and where the soil is heavy clay. A day or two ago we noticed that a number of bushes had been blown about so much as to cause a collar of soil round the stem, and this was in some instances fdled with water. The soil ought to be broken up and then made firm round the stem, and, if necessary, a stake put in to support the bush. Newly planted Roses will probably have been loosened by the frost, and where this is so, the soil must be made firm without delay. The Sea Buckthorn. — No\v that the berries of many hardy trees and shrubs have been devoured by birds, the value of the Sea Buckthorn, Hippophae rhamnoides, is more fully appreciated. By the lakeside at Kew there are some large bushes covered with the translucent orange-coloured berries, which are very beautiful indeed when kissed by the winter sun. Although this is a rather slow-growing shrub, it is not fastidious as to soil and situation, but care must be taken to plant one male bush to about every eight or nine of those capable of bearing fruit, otherwise the berries will not be formed. A Beautiful White-Stenlmed Bramble. — At the present time the outer fringe of the garden, just where it merges into the woodland, owes most of its charm and interest to those shrubs with either coloured stems, fruits or leaves. In the first category we have Dogwoods, Willows, Brambles and several other kinds that might with advantage be more extensively planted for winter effect. A new Bramble from China named Rubus giraldianus promises to be par- ticularly valuable in this respect. It sends up a colony of stout stems some 8 feet high, which are almost as white as driven snow, and as they are pendulous, a well-grown bush forms a very striking and beautiful feature in the land- scape. In planting these coloured-stemmed shrubs it should be remembered that the best effect is obtained when a background of dark-leaved conifers or other evergreens is secured 18 THE GARDEN. [January io. 1914. CORRESPONDENCE. {The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondmts.) Arum Flowering Outdoors on Christmas Day .— I th.night it might interest sonie of your readers to hear that there was an Arum, or Lily of the Nile, in flower outdoors on Christmas Day at a cottage near here. The plants have been outside all the year roimd. They do not generally flower before AprU. — F. O'CoNNELL, Darrinane fjibbey, Water- ville, County Kerry, Ireland. Permanent Netting for Fruit Trees.— Those who suffer much from birds among the bush fruits (and who does not ?) would do well to consider, if they have not already done so, the advisa- bility of erecting wire-netting as a permanent protection. We did so here last year, with most gratifying results. In the vicinity of trees it is well only to enclose the break with 6-feet netting. and in the fruit season cover the top with good tanned netting, or else to have the overhead netting in span-roof form to throw off the falling leaves in autumn. The birds are most persistent romid the sides. Last season, although we supplied water to the birds in saucers, we could not make one break of small fruits bird-proot, even with double tanned nets. — C. Comfort. Midlothian. Laurustinus lucidus. — One may pass through many a good garden and never see a bush of this beautiful shrub, with its handsome, polished foliage and large cymes, 3J inches across, ot half- ineh-wide, pure white blooms and rosy tipped buds. Its beauty has been con- spicuous of late, for whereas it is normally a spring-flowering shrub, the imusually mild weather in November and early December has pushed it forward into a flowering state and the bloom has been perfect and abundant. It is a little tenderer than the other garden kinds, the hardiest being the Black Laurus- tinus that has "[the handsome berries with the blue metallic lustre ; but anywhere south of London it is likely to do well in a sheltered place. The whole growth is rather more free than that of the common Laurustinus, and, although the bloom is so much larger, it is a more refined flower and has also a certain kind of graceful port that is wanting in the more stiff and twiggy common kind. — G. J. Peculiarities of Mistletoe. — Herefordshire being mentioned by " C. Q." on page 644, December 27 issue, as being favourable to the finding of Mistletoe in its orchards, gave me, as a Herefordian, an added interest in the reading of the article. May I ask if any reason is given, or can be suggested, why Mistletoe refuses to grow on Pear trees ? assuming such to be the case. I happened to read an article in a contemporary last Christmas- time on Mistletoe, and the Pear tree was given by the writer as a tree upon which it had been found. But this may have been a mistake on his part. I cannot recollect seeing Mistletoe on a Pear tree anywhere ; neither can my father, who has had much to do with orchards all his life ; nor another Herefordshire fruit-grower of whom enquiries have been made since the appear- ance of your article in The Garden. In addition to the trees mentioned by " C. Q.," perhaps I may add the name of the Elm as a host of the Mistletoe, for it is to be found on this tree about ten minutes' walk from my parents' home. — C. Turner, Highgate. The Prophet Flower (Arnebia echioides). — .Amebia is an Arabian name applied to a genus included in the Natural Order Boraginea and allied to Lithospermum. The species echioides, meaning Echium-hke, is remarkable for its singular flowers. These are of a primrose yellow colour, with a purple, almost black, spot on the lobes of the corolla. The curious thing is that the dark spot gradually disappears in a few days. The botanist Miiller long ago observed that many flowers of Boragineae in the course of individual development seem to recapitulate the evolution THE PROPHET FLOWER (ARNEBIA ECHIOIDES). THE BLACK SPOTS DISAPPEAR FROM THE BLOSSOMS AFTER A FEW DAYS. of their colours, and he instanced this theory by the blue and violet species of Myosotis, Anchusa and Symphytum, which gave white and rose red varieties apparently by reversion to more primitive characters. Possibly the colour change in Amebia echioides is due to the same cause, but it is worth noting that it is only as the flowers age that the spots disappear. Another theory, and one which seems more probable, is that the colour change may be an adaptation to show the more intelligent insects which are the useful and, incidentally, the tmpollinated flowers. The illustration clearly depicts young flowers with dark spots, and older flowers in which the spots are fading away. By reason of its peculiarity this Oriental plant is popularly known as the Prophet Flower. It is a much valued subject for the rock garden, and although difficulty is sometimes found in increasing the stock, this may be accomplished by taking cuttings of strong roots and inserting them in sandy soil in gentle heat. It may also be increased by seeds. — C. Q. Saxifraga'^hrunoniana. — This is a distinct and beautiful Chinese novelty which, should it prove to be perfectly hardy, will be welcomed by all lovers of choice alpines. It is also a distinct addition to its genus. Quite early in the season the plant produces numerous thread-like stolons or rimners, which in the fullest simlight assume a brilliant red colour ; hence it should be grown where so good an attribute may be seen to the best advantage. Later on in June and July the plant bears a profusion of golden yellow flowers. It is readily increased by layering the runner-like shoots. — E. J. The Golden Mohur. — While glanc- ing through the " Answers to Corre- spondents " in your last issue of The Garden, I noticed the reply under the heading, " The Golden Mohur." If I am not mistaken, I think " G. D.," who enquired about it, means the Gold Mohur tree, Poinciana regia, and not what you suggested, namely, Bassia latifolia and Quercus dilatata. The Gold Mohur is a medium-sized ornamental tree with handsome feathery foliage and beautiful reddish orange flowers. I have seen this tree, which, by the way, is classed as a timber tree, doing very well in most gardens in the United Provinces, Punjab, and also some fine, graceful specimens in zoological gardens in Bombay and Karachi. — J. C. Powell, Ripley. November Hardy Chrysanthemums. There are a great number of Chrysan- themums for the open garden in Sep- tember and October, but the hardy kinds that are the most valuable are the ones that bloom in November, when outdoor flowers are very scarce. The late season, with its many mild weeks of early winter, has been espe- cially favoirrable to them, and I have never before seen the deep red Julie Lagravfere in such perfection. Are there more of this large Pompon class ? My November bloom begins — sometimes at the very end of October — -with the warm white Soeur Melanie ; then comes the larger Cottage Pink, formerly grown indoors under the name of Emperor of China. It is quite hardy in all but exceptionally cruel weather. It is much better^ out of doors, both as to bloom and leaf, for the flower has its full strength of colouring, from the pale, cool pink of the outer petals to the rosy crimson of the centre. The leaves also are ot stout texture and take a fine colour, agreeing with that of the centre of the flower. Nearly at the same time comes Julie Lagrav^re, with its fine red bloom and very neat foliage. I have one other of these large Pompons — not a very good doer and nearly lost — called Soleil d'Or. The colour is a strong or.mge, shading to deeper in the centre ; a fine, rich-coloured thing as to the flower, but with a lanky, imgainly habit. I wish I could hear of more of this class, begmning to bloom not earlier than the first week of NovcinlnT. — G. Jekyll. January io, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 19 December Roses. — One can often find a few odd Roses in December in two years out of three, but 1 think it is very rarely that one can find a tree as full of bloom as is usual in June and July. I have lately seen a weeping standard of the variety Dorothy Perkins in flower in such pro- fusion as to remind one of the month of Roses in a garden in Hampshire. The position was not a sheltered one, as the north and east winds had full play upon the tree. I think the most notable characteristic was the very deep, rich colour of the blooms — much more intense than flowers usually come of this variety earlier in the year. — G. G. The Columbines. — Charming alike for house and table decorations and for the embellishment of the garden during early summer, the Aquilegia is worthy of more e.xtensive cultivation. The long-spurred hybrids have been so improved upon of late years that they are certainly worth some consideration now that the planting season is with us. The best results are unquestionably obtained when a whole border or large bed can be given up entirely to these plants, for then enough of each colour can be used to produce an effective display. Should the position occupied by them be required bright in spring and autumn, bulbs should be planted at the same time. There is a host of subjects to choose from for early flowers, e.g.. Tulips and Narcissi, and for a display when the Aquilegias have passed out of flower Liliums (such as tigrinum) or Montbretias would answer the purpose. Although not in any way fastidious about soil, the Aquilegia is seen at its best in a sandy loam. — H. Turner, Seiiby Gardens. Buddleia Colvillei Flowering Outdoors on Christmas Day. — It is not often that one sees Buddleia Colvillei flowering freely, especially at this time of the year. There is, however, a plant of this Buddleia growing in the open border in these gardens, carrying a quantity of blossom and flowering shoots. On Christmas Day I counted over twenty flower-spikes fully developed, while there were a large number of the other branches whose flower-buds were just showing colour. It was planted about ten years ago, and has blossomed on three previous occasions, but never so freely or so late in the season as this. The flowers are distinct from all other Buddleias ; they resemble a rosy red Pentstemon. The foliage is a kind of silver grey. It is a strong- growing subject, but, unlike the others, it does not flower until it has been established for some years. Growing in the same border as a com- panion to the foregoing Buddleia is a large bush of Eriobotrya japonica (the Loquat) in full flower. It has occupied its present position about twelve years, but this is the first time it has blossomed. It is generally seen planted against a wall, but it makes a magnificent bush in favoured situations. It prefers a rather light, loamy soil, and is readily increased by cuttuigs or layers, — F. W. Rich, The Gardens, Elfordleigh, Plympton, South Devon. THE HERBACEOUS OR MIXED BORDER. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. January 13. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting and Exhibition at Vincent Square, West- minster. January 22. — Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institution's Annual General Meeting at Simpson's, Strand, London. January 27. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting and Exhibition at Vincent Square, West- minster. HOW TO MAKE AND MAINTAIN IT. {Continued from page 11.) * MODERATELY light soil is suitable /% for the great majority of herbaceous / % plants. Astilbes, some Lilies, some ^^^^ Irises, Helleborus major, Meconopsis ^ * wallichiana and Lobelia cardinalis are examples of those which need a strong soil to be satisfactory, and even these may be induced to be fairly happy in a light soil, rotted manure and the soil made very firm about the plants gomg a long way to meet their require- ments. But there is so large a variety of plants to choose from that, unless for very special reasons, those plants which will not thrive in the soil of a particular garden should be left out in the furnishing of borders. Soil Pulverisation. — Under proper treatment any soil ought to improve year by year and become better adapted for all kinds of plants. Deep cultivation is, of course, of first importance ; but deep cultivation is not of itself enough, and besides turning over the soil and loosening it, all clods should be smashed, thorough pulveri- sation having a remarkable effect for good. It is one of the points I insist on ; yet so widely different do the individuals in a squad of men understand this cultural expedient that no two PHLOX : SHOWING DEPTH TO PLANT. ever break the clods to the same degree of fine- ness, and the effect is apparent the succeeding summer in the varying qualities of the crops. In bygone days it was usual to wait two or three years for a herbaceous border to come to its best, and I have frequently seen people look as if they did not credit one's word on being told the borders here were completely furnished the first season. It is true this cannot be done unless means are taken that the plants shall grow with vigour, and vigour cannot be acquired unless the soil is not only deeply worked and knocked about till it is reduced to fine particles, but also made rich in fertilising materials. The Best Manure. — I quite agree it is possible to make soil — by the introduction of much crude manure — too stimulating, resulting in the production of soft and rank vegetation. The manure, therefore, should have been laid up for a long enough period to have lost much of its stimulating properties, when it may be employed abundantly without any but good effect. A combination of horse and cow manure is to be preferred to either alone, and all manures should be finely comminuted and mixed thoroughly with the soil, rather than dug into it in lumps in a haphazard fashion. In addition to this principal manuring, a layer of material prepared from old Mushroom-beds, pigeon-manure, soot, wood-ashes, old composts and surfacings of fruit borders, with perhaps a slight addition of newly slaked lime spread over the surface of the border previous to planting, enables plants to make a vigorous start. A similar dressing is also beneficial if applied to established borders which have not for any reason been otherwise manured. Drainage, while non-essential in many gardens, in others is all-important. It is not enough to place drainage material at the bottom of borders in the expectation that surplus water will be removed in that way, for unless a proper drain is provided to carry away the water, the above expedient will simply make matters worse, inasmuch as it will be the means of drawing into it moisture from both sides without drying and warming the border itself. If the border is not more than 15 feet in width, one drain down the middle will form a sufficient water remover. The Ideal Management of a herbaceous border, as regards the srjil, is to lift the plants annually, cultivate, rearrange, and replant. Usually two or three years elapse between these overhauls, but at least some of the more aggressive plants should be lifted annually, the ground evacuated, cultivated, and the plants rearranged. It is very important that species of Aconitum, Helenium, Helianthus, Aster, Chrysanthemum maximum, C. uliginosum, Rudbeckia, Senecio tanguticus and others of a like nature should be treated thus annually. Montbretias also yield so much better results that it is worth while to include these among the annual plantations. There are so many good things among these that it is possible to secure a different effect by rearranging these alone in another way. I know there exists a kind of horror at the thought of intruding a spade among established herbaceous plants, the dear roots being objects of much concern lest any should be severed. May I express the conviction that nothing better could happen to the plants next to lifting and replanting. By digging deeply and carefully among them they are divested of useless roots and an improved root-run is provided, into which new roots to take the place of those removed quickly find their way, to the great benefit of the plants. Manure about twelve months old is best fitted for mi.xing with the soil under these conditions. Lifting and Replanting. — On occasions when the borders are completelv renewed and culti- vated, I have found it much the best way, in order that planting may not be stopped by wet weather, by which operations are sometimes de- layed till spring, to lift only a few yards in advance, rearrange as each short section is recultivated, and plant it up at once. It perhaps needs experience and a clear conception in one's mind of the ultimate appearance of the border as a whole to proceed on these lines, but it is the most satisfactory on the whole. The soil ought to be dry enough to permit of the plants being well firmed after planting, and the imoccupied parts also compressed so that the ground will not sink unevenly during the winter. The end of October and part of November is the period when I plant, but some things which are apt to flower early may well be left till spring, one result being a decidedly later bloom. Where Gladioli, Car- nations, Pentsteraons, Celsias, Snapdragons, Chry- santhemums and annuals are employed, it is, in- cumbent that vacancies should be left for these. Prestonkirk, N.B. R. P. Brotherston. (To be continued.) 20 THE GARDEN. [January io, 1914. FRAGRANT-LEAVED TREES AND SHRUBS. CLE attention is given to the small srciiip of trees and shrubs characterised iiy their fragrant leaves, yet such have a peculiar charm, and in some instances perfume the air quite as much as do numerous fragrant flowers. They belong to both evergreen and deciduous species, and in almost all instances the perfume is due to the presence of essential oil secreted in small glands in the leaves. In many cases these oils are important articles of commerce, and a considerable number of persons find employment in separating them from the leaves by distilla- tion, to be used largely for per- fumery. We have, however, to consider the plants wholly in their relationship to the garden at the present time, their commercial possibilities being of secondary im- portance. In some cases the frag- rance is easily liberated, and is very noticeable after a shower of rain or during early morning while the leaves are still covered with dew ; but in other instances the perfume is only released by brush- ing or bruising the leaves. During the winter it is only possible, of course, to observe the fragrance of the evergreen kinds ; therefore we will glance at a few of those first. Noteworthy among the number is the Sweet Bay (Laurus nobilis), a fine evergreen which sometimes grows into a tree 30 feet or 40 feet high in the milder parts of the country, but is more frequently foimd as a large bush. Its frag- rance is most apparent when the leaves are rubbed. There are two small-leaved varieties, angustifolia and undulata, which are equally fragrant. The leaves of the Bay are often used for flavouring purposes. The Myrtle (Myrtus communis) is another charming, fragrant- leaved shrub, as is also its small- leaved form, M. tarentina. In the South-West Counties they thrive as bushes in the open ground, but in other parts tlicy must have wall culture. The peculiar resinous odour of many coniferous trees is usually highly appreciated by visitors to woods or planta- tions of Pines, Cypresses and Arbor-vitces, for although lacking the sweetness of the Bay and Myrtle, and sometimes becoming rather pungent on close investigation, its invigorating action makes it very popular, particularly with invalids. Turning from large-growing trees to small shrubs, we find in the diminutive Thymes worthy examples of fragrant-leaved shrubs. They arc delightful when planted between the stones in unevenly paved paths, for, when passed over by ladies, the rubbing of their dresses causes sufficient agitation to set the fragrance free. The writer once saw these plants used with considerable effect in the manner described in a Somersetshire garden. They may also be used effectively on walls. Thymus Chama;- drys, T. citriodorus, T, Serpyllum and T, vulgaris may all be used. Another humble plant may be foinid in the Sage (Salvia officinalis), for its leaves are quite fragrant enough to warrant its inclusion in our group. The Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) is very popular nn account of its delicate scent. The fragrance of the flowers is, however, more notice- able, that of the leaves not being very evident until friction has been applied. Similar remarks apply to the Lavenders (Lavandula spica and L. vera), both of wlii( li should be included among fragrant- Sweet Briar (Rosa rubiginosa), which, with the Penzance Briars, scent the air for a consider- able distance, especially during early morning and after rain. In the warmer parts of the cotuitry the Scented Verbena may be requisitioned. This, Lippia citriodora, has Lemon-scented leaves and forms a bush 3 feet to 6 feet high. It is hardier than is often thought, and may be grown in sheltered positions in the Southern Midlands. If placed against a wall further North, it will also succeed. The genus Artemisia provides a number of scented-leaved shrubi, notably the Southernwood {A. Abrota- num), A. arborescens, A. procera and A. tridentata. The latter plant is also worth attention on accoimt of its silvery leaves. In Cornwall and the Scilly Islands a number of the Eucalypti may be grown. The most fragrant, probably, is E. citriodora, which, unfortunately, is also one of the most tender. Throughout most of the Southern Counties, however, E. globulus can be planted. Its ornamental leaves emit a perfume when rubbed. Southern Cornwall and the Scilly Islands have a wealth of fragrant- leaved material in the scented- leaved Pelargoniums from South Africa. In the Scilly Islands they grow luxuriantly, and when over- growing their space they are simply chopped down and allowed to break again from the ground-luie. The Myricas or Wax Myrtles have fragrant leaves, but as a rule they are not of any great decora- tive value. The most ornamental is M. asplenifolia, a native of North .America, with elegantly cut leaves. It requires moist groimd and a rather cool situation. Although these do not exhaust tlie list of fragrant-leaved shrubs, a sufficient number has been men- tioned to direct attention to a group of plants which is usually given scanty consideration. D. HERB.\CEOUS I'LOWERS IN A SUSSE.X G.\RDEN. leaved shrubs. \ more vigorous shrub is found in Urabellularia califomica, sometimes called the Califomian Laurel by reason of its leaves having a somewhat similar perfume to that of the Sweet Bay, or Bay Laurel as it is sometimes called. The various Linderas and Litsajas, though not showy shrubs as a rule, bear fragrant leaves. These, with Laurus and Umbellularia, belong to the Order Lauraceaj, an Order peculiar by reason of the large number of genera of fragrant plants it contains. In some instances, as in the Camphor, the fragrance is found throughout the wood, and the wood is distilled in order to obtain the essence. One of tlie most popular fragrant-leaved shrubs during tlie summer is the PLANT GROUPING FOR EFFECT. The accompanying illustration depicts an autumn scene in the gardens of PaxhiU Park, Sussex. Herbaceous flowers are here used with telling effect. Michaelmas Daisies, in tones of pink, la\-ender and blue, are mingled with the nodding flowers of the Japanese Anemones, both pink and white, while the warm orange shades of the Montbretias lend a pleasing tone of colour in the foreground. Another garden flower used in the foreground, and one which has become exceedingly popular of late, is the Caucasian Catmint (Nepeta Mussini). It forms a dense prostrate tuft with numerous spikes of small lavender-blue flowers ; as an edging to the flower border it has few equals. Of the Mieliaelmas Daisies, the rose pink variety St. Egwin and tlie large blue Climax are extensively used for colour effect, and both varieties stand out well against the wall and balustrading, which arc partially clothed with w.dl slirnbs in Ihc l).irkgrounil. Jan'uarv 10, 1914.^ THE GARDEN. 21 SEASONABLE NOTES ON VEGETABLES. Trenching. — Of all details in conncctiou with vegetable culture, none is of more importance than trenching. Apart from providing a deeper root- run in which the various kinds of vegetables will search for food — for instance, an Onion will send its roots down over two feet deep — the action of trenching warms the soil by the admission of air. Vegetables of all kinds resist drought so much better during the summer in trenched ground. There is still another advantage in trenching to note. Where the subsoil, perhaps i foot to 2 feet deep, is clay, or nearly so, a stiff, heavy, hard pan at the bottom of the ordinarily dug soil prevents the quick percolation of water from heavy rains This excess of moisture immediately under the roots causes stagnation in growth. There are various methods of trenching. Some advocate bringing the bottom soil to the surface, no matter how deep they trencli. Under certain conditions this is the most effective manner of bringing the whole of the soil into an improved condition quickly. The reservation is this : If a quantity of matter like decayed vegetable refuse, old potting soil, roadside refuse, with the addition of quicklime, all mixed together, is available to cover the surface 6 inches thick, to give what- ever crop may be grown a quicker start into growth than would be the case if the subsoil brought to the top was clay or a heavy, retentive | soil approaching clay. If the soil is treated in this way for one or two years, then retrenched again, we get a medium that will grow almost any kind of vegetable well. If, on the other hand, stich addition is not available, I advise the keeping of the surface soil in the same position, and trusting to the addition of long, strawy manure or freshly gathered leaves to the lower trenches during the operation. This method of trenching entails th^ use of two trenches, whereas the former needs but one. In any case, I advise that THE all stiff soil be broken up to the depth of 3 feet, and in all cases deeply dig the bottom of each trench, leaving this in a rough state. This method of trenching may seem a laborious matter, but it is an excellent plan, and when once well done it will last a long time and so improve the conditions for vegetable growth that it is time well spent. Exhibition Onions. — The first or second week in January is a good time to sow the seed. There is no better variety than Ailsa Craig from a good strain. The seed should be either home saved or obtained from a reliable seeds- man. This variety possesses all the attributes of a good Onion — size, shape, early maturity, long keeping, and a vigorous constitution. The ordinary Geranium cutting boxes, 4 inches deep, answer well for sowing. Place a few crocks at the bottom, covering these with rough leaves, and fill the boxes to within half an inch of the top firmly with a compost of loam, leaf-mould, decayed Mushroom- bed manure, and sufficient sharp sand to make the whole gritty. Select large and plump seeds. sowing them regularly an inch or so apart. Cover the seeds lightly, yet firmly, with similar compost finely sifted. If the soil is not sufficiently moist, give a gentle watering and place the boxes in a vinery or Peach-house just started, where the temperature is not less than 55° or 60°. Directly the plants appear above the surface, the boxes should be placed in a light position close to the glass, to prevent the plants becoming drawn. Broad Beans. — No time should be lost in making a sowing of Windsor or Longpod on a sheltered border or in a favourable position in the open. Well fork over the site, leaving it light below and thus drier. In a trench, 4 inches deep, spread some light compost on which to place the double row of Beans angle-wise, covering them lightly with the same compost, to be increased as the plants push through the soil, which not only aids growth, but pro- tects them also from birds, slugs and bad weather. Seakale. — When the roots are lifted for forcing, the next season's crop should be considered, taking care of the small roots about six inches long, Even in the depth of winter it retains its beauty, spreading like a silvery carpet close to the ground and making a pleasing contrast with dark green Ivy if the latter is grown in the background. There are other Santolinas of hoary appearance, such as S. incana and S. squarrosa, the former a small, silvery shrub suitable for the rock garden, and the latter a variety of the Lavender Cotton well suited for carpeting banks. The Cerastiura, common Lavender and garden Pinks are other grev-leaved plants that are appreciated for their winter effects, while in summer we have many others, of which Cineraria maritima, Antennarias and Stachys lanata are perhaps the best known. TWO INTERESTING BELL- FLOWERS. CAMPANULA EXCISA AND C. ZOYSII. I THINK the reason why the rare Campanula excisa so universally fails in cultivati'ai is that it gets GREY-LEAVED LAVENDER COTTON (SANTOLINA CHAM.ECYPARISSUS) IN MIDWINTER. of the thickness of a cedar pencil. Tie them in bundles and place them in sandy soil in quite a cool place. Put fresh roots as required — a few at a time is best — in the various places for forcing. Nowhere is better than in a iVIushroom-house, where blanching is perfectly done in the dark, moist atmosphere, and where a genial heat is maintained for the benefit of the Mushrooms. Cover the crowns with clean, freshly gathered leaves, which aids growth and ensures perfect blanching. If no iUushroom-house exists, a deep box, placed on the top of the brickwork over the boiler in the stokehole will suffice, if the crowns are covered with leaves, kept moist ; or an inverted flower-pot over another with the roots in, stood on the hot- water pipes in the greenhouse, will suffice. Swanmore Park, Hants. E. Molyneux. SILVERY LEAVED PLANTS. 0.\E of the most beautiful of all garden plants with silvery grey foliage is the Lavender Cotton, botanically known as Santolina Chamaecyparissus. so pitilessly cut to pieces by propagators that its poor little relics are ultimately imable to make headway. Properly rooted, however, in sound masses, I believe there should not be any difficulty at all, whether in sun or shade, about growing C. excisa, so long as it is remembered that hitherto (one must never be prophetic : C. alpestris has weakened to lime, so why not C. excisa ?) C. excisa remains ex hypothesi firmly opposed to any sus- picion of lime, and also, as I thmk, to any heavi- ness of soil. For the first time I studied this plant last year in situ ; it is very clearly a perfectly easy and robust species. For, though extremely rare, it is also extremely common and pervasive ; confined to the northern and southern sides of Monte Rosa (with one outlying station, at least, in the Engadine), it is there universal, taking the place of C. pusilla, from the river-beds close on Macugnaga, through the thinner Larch slopes, up to the shingles by the Belvedere Glacier, where it forms masses of colour a yard and more across. Here it is evidently in its fullest glory ; thin 22 THE GARDEN. [January io, 1914. To this I was growing, tube-flowered in open earth, it grows ample and profuse, in wide tussocks, from the pure granitic sand among lumps and boulders of granite. It is finer and wirier and more graceful than C. pusilla ; at the same time, not so far removed in general effect but for the more violet note of the blossoms and their extraordinarj' little punched-out hole at the base of the corolla segments. The blossoms, however, var}' in form ; those usually (and so rarely) seen in cultivation are a trifle star\'ed looking and mean, but search among the plant at its Happiest soon produces one variety with splendid opulent blos- soms, plump and comely in outline. There are pale variations, too, and a pure albino, fully directed ; I duly found all the points of direction, found the spot — found everything e.xcept the white Campanula. Now, soundly rooted, I see C. excisa sprouting freely everywhere ; in one garden I know it now has to be " hyked " up by handfuls, like a weed, and cast away. There it is growing in a very rich mixture of leaf-mould and coarse sand, with a perpetual flow of underground water. With me, on the contrary, it has not seemed to enjoy the sandy part of the water-bed especially made for its needs, but is thriving very freely in a drier and lime-fraught portion where I cannot remember that it was ever put. And finally, it has a habit of dying down and then com- ing up again a few weeks later quite unperturbed by the alarm it has caused to its cultivator, who is quite prepared for its winter disappear- ance underground, but is rendered unhappy by such tmexpected games of " Peep-bo." Campanula Zoysii. — Why are cultivators, in The Garden or else- where, warned to be afraid of this easy and hearty little species ? One might as well be nervous about C. pusilla ! A possible reason is that gardeners oftener fail with C. Zoysii because, being so much rarer, it is subdivided beyond its strength by nurserymen, and sent out in no fit condition to battle with a slug- ruled world. Otherwise, C. Zoysii is a species no less hardy and hearty than C. pusilla, though in- comparably rarer. Manycnthusiasts who liave successfully grown Cam- panula Zoysii cherish it above all others. It is a limestone species of the Eastern Alps (Kara- wanken, &c.), where it not only occupies the high, hard chinks, like C. Raineri, but also gives notice of its adaptable temper by descending far down into the river shingles, where it forms immense masses more than a yard across, very unlike the tastes or developments of C. Rameri. There, in stony sand, it waxes hugely, but seems to flower so late that on August 24 of last year hardly a bud was open. Now, in my garden, collected plants of C. Zoysii (small pot plants in sprmg) are 6 inches tall and even more across, with sheaves of their lovely little odd puckered flowers, blue and whitish, like stoppered bottles. They are growing in light, rich loam, plentifully mixed with lime rubble, and with water percolating beneath ; and here it is quite evident they mean to wax fat and spread like C. pusilla, without any question of difficulty or care — except in connection with slugs, which greedily devour them. C. Zoysii does not seem to van>' much in colour, except in the case of the wonderful pure white albino, which I purchased for vast sums from its possessor, and which has rewarded me, accordingly, with flowers of a much richer blue than the type. Regi.vald F.^rrer. IN A HAMPSHIRE GARDEN. A BEAUTIFUL HARDY PRIMULA. Primula pulverulenta Mrs. Berkeley. This variety is sure to be a warm favourite when better known. The type, Primula pulverulenta, PRIMULA PULVERULENTA MRS. BERKELEY GROWN FROM SEED. a fine sturdy species with show)' ruby crimson flowers, and flower-stems thickly coated with a white farina, is too well known to need further description. The variety Mrs. Berkeley, however, has flowers of a soft rosy orange shade with a deeply coloured eye, and they are borne in towering heads tier upon tier, as is the case with the type. Happily, this variety comes true from seed, and if the seedlings are planted out in a suitable niche in the rock garden, as depicted in the illustration, a pleasing show of bloom is assured from the middle of May until midsummer or even later. Seed should be sown next month in gentle heat. A half-shady position and a retentive loamy soil suit the require- ments of this variety admirablv. SOME OF THE NEWER DECORATIVE ROSES. {Continued from page 5.) Rayon d'Or (Pemet-Ducher, igio). — This strik- ing yellow (almost garishly so) Rose was a very great break, and it has proved of verj- material benefit to the hybridist, and therefore all Rose- lovers are very much indebted to its raiser. Its colour is unique, and hits one in the eye with a certainty that brooks no denial of your immediate attention. But for all that — in fact, on account of that, possibly — Rayon d'Or does not appeal particularly to me. A fairly robust grower, quite mildew-proof ; its foliage only succumbs to that worst of all Rose pests, black spot, to which it seems particularly prone. Whether the black spot is also answerable for its other bad habit I do not know, but it is very unsightly, namely, the dying back of wood of the season's grou-th. I am prepared to forgive it its thorns, which are formidable. I think everyone should have a plant of it in his garden in bush form, but I cannot recommend it as a standard or as a bedding Rose. It has had and will con- tinue to have an influence on many future generations of new Roses, and one can only hope that it will transmit its good points, which are undeniable, to its itffspring. Reine Marie d'ltalie (H.T., Bernaix, 1910). — There is not much shape in this variety, but the colour is at times quite good — a deep ochre yellow that stands well. It is strongly Tea-scented, and its habit of growth is Tea-like. It is quite free-flowering enough for a bedding Rose, and my couple of nlants have arrested my attention on more than one occasion during the season. It might be tried instead of Lady Hillingdon in the Midlands and the North as a yellow hedder. Rose du Barri (B. R. Cant and Sons, 1911). — This is quite happily named ; it is a very free- flowering bedding Rose of about three rows of petals of a charming rose du Barri pink. It has a strong scent, and is very useful cut in long sprays for the house, as many of the flowers open at the same time and last well when cut. Almost mildew-proof and a good grower. Seabird (Hugh Dickson, 1913). — This has been well exhibited on many occasions by the raisers during the last two seasons, and was distributed by them last autumn. Its small but well-formed flowers are of a delightful primrose shade of yellow — a colour that is badly wanted — and, if it will stand, this Rose will speedily be in request. The plants are of good shape, of the desired free-branching habit, producing their flowers freely on good. i erect growths. I am looking forward to flowering it here this year, January io, 1914.] THE GARDEN. Sunburst (Pernet-Ducher, 1912). — " Variable," I am afraid, must be the decision witli regard to this Rose, The majority of the flowers I had last year lacked the true Sunburst colour, and looked to have had to burst through a very heavy raincloud and suffered badly in the process. Still, I have had some beautiful coloured buds that easily beat Lady Hillingdon or any other Rose for purity of CDlour, but they were few and far between. The pretty theory about stopping the first flowers has not worked out of doors with me ; it may very well do so under glass. I shall continue to grow it for the sake of the one or two " righteous" flowers, but a bed I saw of it in the autumn was distinctly disappointing and had to play second fiddle to Lady Hillingdon, Theresa (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1909). — Very charming in the bud and early stages and lasting well to the end. This semi-double Rose was much admired, both in the garden and in the house. Its rather unusual colouring appeals to many. Deep orange pink with carmine markings on the outside petals in the bud form, it opens out into a pretty semi- double silvery pink with distinct carmine veinings. Very free-flowering, sweetly scented, not particularly subject to mildew, and a good strong grower. It is a very delightful and at the same time useful Rose. Tea scented. .t^ VernaMackay (Alex. Dickson and Sons, igta). — Such has been the demand for this delightful Rose that I imderstand the raisers can supply no more plants this season. I am not surprised Everyone admired it here ; its exquisite shape and delightful colourmg made it at once one of the most beautiful buttonhole Roses there is. It can be best described as a yellow Carine. All those who like Roses for wearing on the dress or in the buttonhole cannot do better l^an grow these two Roses if they can get them. Good free habit, almost lemon colour, nearly mildew-proof, it is very difficult to find a fault with Verna Mackay. Viscount Carlow (.Alex. Dickson and Sons, igio) — One would venture to think there was a good deal of the old G. Nabonnand blood in this Rose, It has the same shell-like petal, but is a deeper colour and a much stronger grower, with fine dark foliage which, alas ! is not mildew-proof. It was splendid in the autunm and very free- flowering all the season. Viscountess Enfield (Pemet-Ducher, 1910). — If this Rose was only a better grower it would be quite useful. The flowers are at times very pretty — a good coppery rose — but they are small and not very lasting. Willowmere (Pernet-Ducher, 1913). — I think this is the pick of the Pernet-Ducher seedlings. It is a delightful, delicate shade of coppery pink. I have not grown it, but have had some very beauti- ful flowers of it sent me. I intend to try it out of doors this year. Southampton. Herbert E. Molvneux. NEW ROSE lONA HERDMAN. Visitors to the National Rose Society's Pro- vincial Show at Gloucester in July last will remember this beautiful Rose, for it was the most striking of all the novelties, and was deservedly awarded the society's gold medal. It is a decorative variety after the colour of Old Gold, but of greater depth and intensity. It was shown in a basket, depicted in the illustration, and came in for general admiration. It is one of the sterling novelties raised by .Messrs. S. McGredy and Son, CULTURAL HINTS ON NEW> AND RARE PLANTS. TREES AND SHRUBS. Carpenteria callfornlca is a Califoinian shrub closely allied to the Mock Oranges, though less hardy. Thriving well in the Southern Counties, it is also sometimes foimd in good condition in the Midlands, while it has been noted in good health as far North as Perthshire growing in a sheltered position on a rockery. Its evergreen leaves are 4 inches or 5 inches long and scarcely more than an inch wide, while its white flowers, which are produced in clusters, are from 2 inches to 3 inches across. Loamy soil, with a little leaf-mould or peat, and a position sheltered from cold winds are conducive to success. thrive against a wall with a south or west aspect. Light loamy soil forms the most suitable rooting medium, and a little peat or leaf-mould mixed with the soil at planting-time encourages the formation of roots. Seeds form the most satisfac- tory means of increase. Cotoneaster applanata is a new species from China, which promises to rank with the best of the Himalayan species previously grown. Of free growth, it forms long, rather slender branches, with dark green ovate leaves. Its chief attraction lies in its fruits, which are bright red in colour and produced with remarkable freedom, hanging on the plants throughout autumn and early winter. Planted in a shrubbery or on the open lawn, it thrives excellently in soil of a loamy nature, and may be readily propagated by means of seeds or by cuttings of half-ripe shoots. THE NEW GOLD MEDAL ROSE lONA HERDMAN. Lycium pallidum. — This is perhaps the most interesting shrub in a genus of which the common Tea Tree (L. chinense) is the best-known repre- sentative. A native of Mexico, it forms a loose bush 3 feet to 5 feet high, with glaucous leaves and rather large, tubular, yellowish green flowers, which are succeeded by orange scarlet fruits. It is hicreased by seeds and grows well in ordinary garden soil, but must be placed in a permanent position while qitite small. Notospartium Carmicliaelise. — This New Zealand shrub has been known in botanical collections for many years, but it is rarely met with in private gardens, although an exceedingly beautiful plant when the Rush-like branches are wreathed, during June, with pretty pink. Pea-shaped flowers. It is only suitable for the warmer parts of the country, but there are numerous places where it would Fraxinus Mariesii belongs to the Flowering Ashes, of which the best-known example is the European F. Omus. F. Mariesii is a sm.Tll tree, native of China, and is conspicuous by reason of its dark green ample foliage and its large panicles of white flowers, which appear in May. It is essentially a tree for a prominent position on the lawn, and should only be planted where re.illy good 2uid fairly moist loamy soil can be provided. It is most satisfactory when grown from seeds, but is sometimes grafted upon stocks of F. Omus. Eucryphia cordilolia. — ^This Chilian shrub differs from the better-known E. pinnatifolia by having simple oblong leaves. Its white flowers are very pretty, and quite as ornamental as those of the commoner species. Although it thrives in the open groimd in some parts of Surrey, it is really a shrub for the South-West Counties, and the most 24 THE GARDEN. [JA^'L■.\K^• ID, 1914. satisfactory resiilts are obtained from it in Devon- shire and Cornish gardens. Plant in warm, well- drained loamy soil, and place a little peat or leaf- mould about the roots at planting-time. Propagate by seeds. Aristolochia moupinensiS.^A near relative of the common Dutchman's Pipe (A. Sipho), this Chinese species promises to become quite as useful as that widely- gro\\'n plant. A vigorous grower, it forms slender branches 10 feet to 15 feet in length in a single season, and bears ornamental green foliage and curiously shaped yellowish or greenish yellow flowers with purple marks. It is well adapted for planting against trellises or on pergolas, while it may also be employed for covering a large bush. Rich loamy soil forms the best rooting medium. R u b u s bambusarum. — The beauty of this Chinese Rubus lies in its long, slender branches and finely lobed leaves, for the com- bination makes it an exceedingly graceful plant, eminently suited for planting against a trellis or pergola, while it has also attractions when grown as a pillar plant in the open. Like other kinds of Rubus, it succeeds quite well in ordinary garden soil, and particularly in that of a loamy nature. A few of the older branches should be thinned out each year, in order to keep the plant within bounds and to prevent a heavy appearance. SEASONABLE NOTES CARNATIONS. ON N OW is the time that Perpetuals are, as a rule, propagated, and though they are generally facile things to root, there are some growers who experience a difficulty in getting up their yearly stock from cuttings. The only time cuttings have failed here has been when the attendant has allowed them to flag, and. worst of all, when flagging has been a result of dryness. I am so particular about the cuttings being always moist that as soon as thev are detached EPACRISES FOR WINTER FLOWERS. Some of tiio species of Epacris, and many of the garden varieties that have been obtained ther.=- from, may be had in flower during the winter months, and they are very useful for th-; decoration of the greenhouse at this season. What is more, they retain their beauty for a con- siderable time, and their long shoots, wreathed with flowers, are very useful for table decoration when arranged in small vases. In the present-day rush the merits of many subjects that are of some what slow growth are apt to be overlooked, and this is, no doubt the cause of the comparative neglect of hard-wooded plants in general, for many of them are really of great beauty. That this class of plants only need a stimulus of some kind to bring them into the light of popularity was well shown last year at the Royal Horticultural Hall, when a collection of Heaths, representing the wild flora of the neighbourhood of Caledon, Cape Colony, was surrounded by admirers during the greater part of the day. To return to the forms of Epacris, it may be pointed out that they vary in colour from pure white to bright rosy red, some of the more delicate shades of pink being especially pleasing. The pure white Epacris onosm^flora flore plena attracts by reason of its pretty double, rosette-like blossoms, while the brightly-coloured E. longiflora carries the display on into the summer months. H. P. THE PERPETUAL-FLOWERING CARNATION SALMON KING from tlie plants they are moistened and kept so, and the rooting medium, after their insertion, is kept wet till roots have been emitted. In a stove propagating-pit cuttings root in from one to three weeks ; in a cooler structure, in three to four weeks. Sand is the universal rooting medium, but this is by no means essential, and acting on experience I gained years ago with Germania, thousands of which I rooted in spring, the cuttings being inserted in a bed of firm soil and protected by means of shallow bottomless boxes covered with glass, I rooted cuttings of Perpetuals in November last in much the same way and in soil. Layering is another and certain method of propagation. I am, however, of opinion, from the behaviour of the few I have grown from layers. that plants from cuttings are superior in everj' way. I have also grown plants from eyes, but only of new sorts, and, of course, a short piece of stem with its two leaves and its one break is always a long way in the rear of the cutting. The only excuse one can give for the " eye " is that it is detached from the lower portion of a cutting, that it increases the number of plants of a scarce variety, and therefore is a gain. Another way of increasing new varieties is to use the top of the rooted cutting, when it is stopped, as another cutting. Moisture has a verv pronounced effect in the production of roots in yormg Carnations ; consequently, after the cuttings h3\e been transferred from the propagat- ing medimn to small pots, the soil should be kept continually in a moist condi- tion. This treatment will ensure a rapid ramilication of the soil with roots and the transference of the plants to larger pots — another part of their early treatment which on no account should be delayed a day longer than can be helped. Just when to stop the plants has to be decided by the condition of each. I am strongly of the opinion that early stopping is a mistake, and 1 like the plant to be well est ablished at tlie roots and with a growth at an average of eighteen leaves before stopping ; but of this I hope to have more to say later, because now I wish to name a few varieties with which the beginner ought to furnish himself, or herself, for one of the most enthusiastic growers I know is a lady who does everything herself for her pets. Good Varieties. — Some I rather Jiesitate to name vn account of idio- syncrasies which a grower in a small way would find wearisome. Such is Carola, than which Triumph, though not so expansive, gives much better results, and Baroness de Briencn, rather shy to bloom and asking for high cultivation. Some, of course, do well with one and not so well with another, and there are good and less good forms of varieties, which the grower will be sure to notice occurs in his own stock, for the Perpetual is essentially sportive alike in form and colour. These, then, and Mary .Alhvood, May Day, Empire Day, White Wonder or White Perpetual, Winsor, Triumph, Countess of Lathom, Mikado, Fairmount, St. Nicholas, Rose Doree and the New Champion and Gorgeous, and, I think, though superseded by Empire Day and Lady Northcliffe, the very free Mrs. F. Burnett should be added. PrestoiMrk, N.B. R. P. Brotherstox, CARNATION SALMON KING. When better known this is sure to be one of the most popular of Perpetual-flowering Carnations. It is an effective and beautiful variety, with bright salmon rose flowers that are freely bomc e%'en in the depth of winter. The blooms are full and travel well, while they arc also fragrant and the calyx does not split. In October last this variety gained the distinction of an .iward of merit from the Royal Horticultural Society when shown by Messrs, Stuart Low and Co. January io, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 25 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. HOW TO PLAN AND CROP A GARDEN WITH VEGETABLES. IN dealing with this subject I am presuming that the cultivator has not had much experience. A cultivator of flowers or fruits, as well as of vegetables, is obliged to gradually obtain experience if he is relying solely on that gained year by year from the actual cultivation of the various crops. There is sure to be some loss of good pro- PLAN OF AN ENCLOSED GARDEN WITH CENTRAL BEDS. duce and much disappointment ; but through the pages of The Garden a reader may greatly lessen that loss, if not entirely avoid all loss, by following the hints given herein in reference to the growing of the principal kinds of vegetables during the year 1914. t Now, some gardens — especially in subu/'.an and town areas — are much enclosed by high, ' - fairly high, buildings. In such circumstances y ■ owner or cultivator must avoid as much a^i possible having his more important crops nea:''Jae other boimdaries, as, owing to the partial' >ade, the growth of the plants will be somewhat adversely affected. The nearer the centre of the garden they are, the more sturdy and satisfactory will the growth be. Fig. A shows how a garden ought to be planned for a position such as the one referred to. Of course, it is suitable for any position, open as well as partially overshadowed. Fig. B shows a plan of a garden very suitable for a quite open position — one, for instance, surroimded by a low hedge or fence constructed of wood. The Treatment of the Soil. — The soil must not be dug or trampled on while it is in a very wet state. Quarters that were dug in the early part of the autumn, or trenched later, should be left im- disturbed for a time, until the weather generally has had a beneficial effect on it. In the meantime, however, the cultivator may proceed with the work of marking out the various plots, so that he will have all ready for the seeds and plants in due course. Where soils of a light nature obtain, much progress may be made during open weather with the actual work of pre- paring the ground for the crops that are to be dealt with first. Fig. A. — No. I denotes the garden frame placed in the warmest corner of the garden. In a frame of this kind many seeds may be sown, and the resultant plants will be available for putting out much sooner than those raised in the open border. A frame is more necessary in a garden the soil of which is clayey ; for this reason, while the clayey, cold soil is mellowing and getting warmer, the plants of the earliest kinds of vegetables are being grown on, so that very little time is lost, and, of course, there is no necessity for imtimely working of such soils, which, if properly treated, generally yield very heavy crops of high-class produce. In the frame. Cauliflowers, Brussels .Sprouts, Celery, Peas, Leeks and Onions may be raised. In borders .Vos. 2 and 3, early Carrots, Turnips, Potatoes and Peas may be grown ; in .Vos. 4 and 5, early salads. Tall- growing kinds, such as Runner Beans ^ Peas and Broad Beans, should be cultivated in Nos. 6, 7 and 8 ; in No. 9, early and second -early Potatoes, where late ones are not grown injthe[garden. Onions, Carrots, Beet and Parsnips should be grown in No. 10, salads and Parsley in summer in Nos. 11 and 12, Celery in 13, and herbs in No. 14. Near the seed-beds, in which winter greens No. 15 Of course, these would follow the planting of the winter greens, but the cultivator must get the young plants ready to fill vacancies as the first crops are cleared off the ground. G. G. A BEAUTIFUL PLANT FOR HEDGES. CoTONEASTER SiMONsii makes a very beautiful and satisfactory hedge for a garden, and a well-trained hedge adds considerably to the good appearance of the garden. The plant referred to grows rapidly, almost as quickly as the Privet ; but it does not dry up the soil to the same extent as the latter. The leaves measure about an inch by half an inch, are dark green in colour, and remain on the plants throughout mild winters. Then there are the lovely orange and red coloured berries, which add to the beauty of the fence. In a few years' time the hedge, if well cared for, gets thick and compact — much firmer than does one of Privet. In mild weather the Cotoneaster may be planted any time till as late as March. The soil, after being trenched about eighteen inches deep, will form a suitable rooting medium without the addition of manures. The latter may be lightly pointed in after an interval of five years, to afford a stimulant to the plants, as they may need it then. The aim should be to secure a short-jointed, dense growth. Put the plants in zigzag form a foot apart. B. k^!:^s-s^.ii3^5s:^^f;^;:^s^<(^?^^^i^ss.<^ 10 \ 1 7 6 7 JL B l\ PLAN OF A KITCHEN GARDEN POSITION. FOR AN OPEN 26 THE GARDEN. [January io, 1914. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. The Fruit-Houses. Early Peaches. — Peach trees in the early house will uuw be swelling their buds, and, before the flowers are open, tlie house should be carefully fumigated with XL All Vaporising Compound to destroy any green or black fly wnich may be present. During the flowermg period the aimo- sphere should be kept on the dry side and a night temperature of 50° maintamed. Admit air whenever the external conditions are favourable. The flowers when open should be lightly touched at midday with a rabbit's tail or a bunch of soft feathers tied on a light Bamboo cane. As soon as the flowers are set, the trees may be lightly syringed twice daily, but avoid a stagnant atmosphere. Figs in Pots. — Trees which were placed in heat at the begmning of December will now be showing fruit. A moist atmosphere and an almost constani circulation of air should be maintained. A tempera- ture of 50° at night wUl be quite high enougn till the fruits are well advancea. Fig trees planted in restricted borders may be started now. Their chief requirements are a moist atmosphere, plenty of water at the roots, providing the borders are well drained, and a temperature of 50° to 55° at night. Plants Under Glass. Winter-Flowering Begonias. — Plants of the Gloire de Lorraine type which have finished flowering should be cut over now, removmg all the flower-spikes without cutting the plants too hard. If kept in a temperature of 65" and fre- quently syringed, good, strong cuttings will soon be available for next season's supply. Carnations. — Autumn-struck plants of Souvenir de la Malmaison should be freely ventUated in order to keep them stocky. A temperature 01 45° at night will be high enough. Old plants which are well established and the pots full 01 roots may have weekly applications of Clay's Manure. Cinerarias. — Plants which have been grown in cold pits may be placed in a cool house now. Fumigate the plants at once and give frequent applications of manure-water. The Flower Garden. Sweet Peas should be sown now for planting out ni April. Three-inch pots may be used, placing only a few seeds in each pot. They may De stood in gentle heat mitil the plants are througn the surface, when they may be removed to a cold pit and gradually nardened. Protection from mice is necessary until the plants are through the surface. Sowing Seeds. — Now is the time to sow seeds of certam bedding plants, such as tuberous-rooted Begonias, Verbena venosa and Pentstemons. All these should be placed in a temperature of 65° to cause them to germinate as quickly as possible. As soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle, they should be pricked off in small pots or shallow boxes. Delphiniums may also be sown now for flowering in the autumn. Chrysanthemums. — Plants which were lifted in the autumn and placed m cold pits are now producing plenty ot shoots suitable for cuttings, i'hese should be inserted in sandy soil before they become drawn, and placed in a close, cool pit. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Pruning. — .All trees on north walls should be pruned and nailed while mild weather lasts. The soil should then be lightly forked over and left to the influence of the weather. In planting fruit trees on north walls, the border should be thoroughly trenched and a quantity of broken bricks and old lime rubble mi.xed with the soil in order to keep' it in a porous condition. The pruning and regulating of orchard trees should be taken in hand as soon as possible. In the case of young trees, all branches that cross each other should be removed in order to admit light and air to all parts oi the tree. If this is neglected while they are young, it is a difficult matter to restore them to a respectable shape afterwards. The leading shoots should be cut well back each season. so that when the trees have grown to a fair size each branch may be furnished with fruiting spurs from top to bottom. The Kitchen Garden. Tomatoes. — Seeds should be sown at once and placed in a temperature of 70°. When the seedlings are well through the surface, the pans should be placed quite close to the roof glass in a temperature of 60^. Cucumber Seeds should also be sown in small pots and placed on a hot-bed within 18 inches of the roof glass. Protect the seeds from mice and plant out the seedlings as soon as they have made their second rough leaf. Rhubarb Roots may be lifted and placed in heat. Any place will suit them so long as sufficient heat can be produced to start them into growth. The Mushroom-house or a heated pit will suit them well. Mushrooms. — In order to keep up a regular supply ot Mushrooms, a bed should Be made up even,' three or four weeks. Let the horse-manure be collected and thoroughly prepared before the beds are made up. If placed in an open shed and turned every second day for a fortnight, it should be ready to remove 10 the bed. After a few days the material may be rammed tightly together, and when the temperature is steady at 80° the spawn may be inserted 2 inches under the surface. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Onions. — Where Onions are required for exhi- liition purposes, now is a suitable time to sow the seeas. Use shallow bo.xes filled with moderately rich soil, which should be well watered before sowing, and place in a cool greenhouse or vinery 111 a temperature of from 45" to 50°. No water will be required mitil the seeds germinate, after which they snould be placed on a shelf as near the glass as possible and watered carefully, as they are very liable to damp at this season. Cauliflowers. — A small sowing of an early variety ot Cauliflower may now be made. I have found Sutton's First Crop and Dobbie's Earliest of All useful for this sowing. Sow the seed thinlv and keep the yomig plants near the glass, and tlie greatest possible care will have to be taken to prevent damping. Tomatoes. — Where early Tomatoes are required, a few seeds may now be placed singly in a pot ur pan and stood in a house of about 60". If the seeds are new, they will germinate in a tew days, so that they will have to oe carefully looked after, otherwise tne seedlings will become drawn. Prick off into small pots when they show the third leaf, keep the soil rather loose, and place them on a shelf near the glass. Seakale not intended to be lifted and forced may now be covered with pots and protected with stable manure. It is generally saia to be of a much finer flavour treated in tnis way than when lifted and forced. Brussels Sprouts. — When the Sprouts have been picked and the tops used as a vegetable, and one has some difficufty in givmg a change, I find an excellent dish can be made from the cores of the stalks, which used to be thrown on the rubbish-heap. It is prepared by sphtting up the stalk and taking out the core. Boil the cores in hot water with a little soda, as one would do with Cabbage, and serve with butter. The chcj calls it puree ae Choux de Bruxelle. Those who have not made use of these should most certainly give them a trial. They make a simply delicious dish. Hardy Fruits. Strawberries. — Plantations of Strawberries that are rather old and have to bear a crop of fruit for another season will be greatly benented by a liberal application of strawy farmyard manure. 1 his may be given now. Should the weather permit, by the time the fruit appears the straw will be washed clean, and no other protection will be required. The Flower Garden. Lily of the Valley. — Established beds will be greatly benefited by a liberal top-dressing of spent Mushroom-beds, which is about the only way one can feed them, and, on the whole, will be all that is required. At this particular season the great evil to be guarded against is damp. This applies more particularly to occupants ot cold frames, such as Carnations, Pentstemons and Pansies, which should only have sufficient water to keep them alive, with plenty of air on all favourable occasions. Examine roots of Dahlias and tuberous Begonias, and any that may show the slightest sign of shrivellmg or rotting must be attended to. Should the variety be extra fine, place the plants in pots or boxes of soil or sand. Keep all pots or boxes of cuttings on the dry side. Fruits Under Glass. Peaches. — Where a supply of early Peaches is required on established trees, a house may now be closed and brought on slowly. Admit air freely on fine days and apply no artificial heat for at least a fortnight ; then only on very cold nights. Examine the borders to see that they are not suffering from a lack of moisture. As soon as the flowers show signs of opening, fumigate the house, as I generally find that if fumigated at this stage they are not so liable to be attacked by green fiy later. Grapes. — Where pot Vines are not grown and Grapes are expected fairly early in the season, close down a house at once, and, as in the case of Peaches, apply no fire-heat for at least a fort- night. The temperature should not exceed 45° by night, with a rise of 10° by day. As soon as the buds show' signs of swelling, a slight syringing with tepid water may be given twice a day to assist the buds to move, and great care will be necessary in admitting air at this stage. Strawberries. — A fresh batch of Strawberries may be taken into heat. Force very gently at first, and as the plants begin to move they may be given a higher temperature. As Strawberries are gross feeders, they should be top-dressed with a little loam and artificial manure, which will be sufficient until the fruit has set. Figs. — The first crop of Figs will now be on the move, and should have an abundant supply of water at the roots. Syringe the trees freely, as it is of the utmost importance to keep the shoots and leaves absolutely clean, otherwise scale will very soon make its appearance. Plants Under Glass. Begonias are again coming into favour as bedding plants, and deservedly so, as under liberal treatment I know of no plant that will give more satisfaction. To increase the stock a sowing should be made at once, and if grown on steadily they will flower next August. Sow in well- drained, shallow pans with some coarse material over the crocks and some fine sandy loam on the surface. Water it slightly with tepid water. Sow the seed carefully, scarcely cover with a little sand, and place in a temperature of between 60° and 70°. Germination is, as a rule, very slow. Thin out the seedlings as soon as they can be handled and keep in a growing temperature for some time. Sweet Peas. — Those that were sown in the autumn and intended for blooming indoors will be growing freely, and may now be potted into their flowering pots. It is of the utmost import- ance to ensure a sturdy growth that they should be kept as near the glass as possible and avoid coddling. Train each shoot up singly. SoU may now be prepared for sowing the main batch towards ..he end of the month. Celosi .. — Seed may now be sown of that eleg.ant lant Celosia pyramidalis, which is so deservedi ■ popular for furnishing greenhouses. Verbei > venosa. — Where this lovely Verbena does not- tand the winter without protection, it is a got d plan to make a sowing now. It is, however, ne of the most tiresome things to germinate i know. I have tried it in every possible way, with arious results. But the plan I now adopt is tc steep the seed in tepid water for a few hours Ufore solving. So far, this is my most successful m-'thod. Alter all, it is really worth a little extra tiouble. John Highgate. (Head-gardvner to the Marquis of Linlithgow.) Hopetoun Gcrdens, Soiilh Qucensjcrry, N.B. January io, 1914.] THE IDEAL ORCHARD FOR SMALL HOUSES. {Continued from Vol. LXXVII., page 627.) THE GARDEN. 27 THE planting of the standard trees having now been completed, the next important thing we have to do is to prune the trees. This, although a simple matter, is one which puzzles the amateur fruit-grower more than perhaps any other item of work he has to attend to. In the case of young trees such as we are ■considering, there is very little pruning to do. What there is consists in cutting back the whole ■of the young shoots of last year's growth by one- half their length, being careful to cut each shoot back to an outside bud (that is to say, a bud ■on the outside of the branch, and not on the inside), the reason for this being that the new shoots issuing from such buds wUI grow laterally and thus help to keep the centre of the tree open. Pruning in the Succeeding Year. — This will •consist chiefly in thinning out weak shoots from the body of the trees where they appear to be too thick, and in slightly shortening the longest leading shoots at the end of the main branches. in,deed, this is the principle which should guide the pruner in his work of pruning in future years. Thin out the trees to let in light and air •where growth is too thick, selecting the weakest •shoots and those, if any, which grow across the body of the trees for cuttmg out, and slightly ■shorten back the longest of the leading young shoots as pointed out above. Standard ■orchard trees should never be overprimed. Varieties to Plant. — In respect to a strictly •utilitarian orchard such as this, it is necessary to be on one's guard to plant only those varieties -which are healthy growers and free and consistent bearers. This means that some of our best- flavoured Apples, such as Cox's Orange Pippin and Ribston Pippin, must be left out, or at any Tate only a tree or two planted, as they are not robust growers, and, moreover, they are much addicted to canker. Another point we have to ■consider in the varieties we plant in such an orchard as this is the suitability of the fruit for sale purposes, because no doubt most of it would in due ■course find its way to market. This has been ■considered in making up the following list of ■eighteen dessert varieties and the same number of cooking varieties : Apples, dessert. — Gladstone, ripe July ; Irish Peach, August ; Devonshire Quarrenden, August ; "Worcester Pearmain, September ; James Grieve, September and October ; Ellison's Orange, ■October ; Cox's Orange Pippin (two trees only), J>Iovember and December ; Allington Pippin, December and January ; King of the Pippins, December and January ; William Crump (new Apple), December and January ; Adam's Pear- iraain, January ; Christmas Pearmain, December and January ; Blenheim Orange, December and January ; Scarlet Nonpareil, December and January ; Bamack Beauty, January and February ; May Queen, February and March ; Bro'wnlee's Russet, February and March ; and Stunner Pippin, March and April. Apples, kitchen. — Early Victoria, ripe July and August ; Potts' Seedling, August and Sep- tember ; Grenadier, September and October ; ■Gascoyne's Scarlet, October ; Royal Jubilee, 'October and November ; Blenheim Orange, .December and January ; Mere du Menage, January to April ; Warner's King (on warm soil only), November ; Norfolk Beauty, November and December ; Tower of Glarais, January and February ; Lane's Prince Albert, February and March ; Bismarck, Christmas to February ; Belle de Boskoop, January to April ; Bramley's Seedling, January to April ; Newton Wonder (better than Wellington), January to April ; Lord Derby, December ; Annie Elizabeth, March and April ; and Wagener (latest of all). May. Plums. — A selection of nine varieties of standard Plum trees : The Czar (cooking), ripe early in August ; Denniston's Superb Gage (dessert), early in August ; Jefferson's Gage (dessert), early in September ; Monarch (dessert or cooking), early in October ; Oullin's Golden Gage, early in August ; Rivers' Early Prolific, early in July ; Victoria (plant most of this, dessert or cooking), September ; Reine Claude de Bavay (dessert), September ; and Coe's Golden Drop, October. Pears. — ^These are not so useful in a cottage orchard as are Apples and Plums. At the same time it would be a mistake not to include a few trees, say, a score. These could be planted between the rows of standards as pyramid or bush trees, and I would suggest they be planted at the end next the house, so as to be more under observation when ripening. Of these I give nine suitable varieties : Williams' Bon Chretien, ripe September ; Triomphe de Vienne, September ; Conference, October and November ; Louise Bonne of Jersey, October and November ; Marie Louise, November ; Doyenne du Comice, November ; Vicar of Winkfield (cooking), December ; Blickltng, December and January ; and Le Lectier. Following after the Pear trees, between the standard Apple and Plum trees I recommend that Gooseberries, Raspberries, Black, Red and White Currants, also Strawberries, be planted, leaving a large enough space at the bottom end of the orchard furthest from the cottage (among the standard Apple and Plum trees) to grow an ample supply of vegetables. On either side of the centre row spoken of before I would suggest that a row of Loganberry bushes be planted at 9 feet apart and trained over rough timber trellis over the pathway. As well as being useful, this would add a touch of ornament to that part of the orchard. At the end of from seven to ten years the produce of this half-acre orchard, if well looked after, ought to be worth on an average, even at a low estimate, from £25 to £30 a year, or, say, from los. to .las. a week. It is not neces- sary to point out what a boon and a blessing such an adjunct would prove to a working-man's home. Owen Thomas, V.M.H. GARDENING ACROSTICS. DOUBLE ACROSTIC No. 6. A famous Swiss botanist of the sixteenth century, who, after having collected 1,500 drawings to illustrate a history of plants, died before he could publish the work. Firsts — His Christian name. Lasts — His surname. 1. An English name for the Gladiolus. 2. A seed before it is fertilised. 3. A genus of Filices, which takes its name from the kidney-shaped covering of the sori. 4. A Campanula whose roots may be used as a vegetable and its leaves in a salad. Seldom seen now. English name. 5. The fruit of the world. 6. A ■ famous and graceful Himalayan tree introduced to Britain about ninety years ago. Its usual English name. Solutions of the foregoing must be sent so as to reach the Editor at 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C., not later than the first post on Saturday, January 17. Mark the envelope " .Acrostic " in the top left-hand corner. SOLUTION AND NOTES OF ACROSTIC No. 4. HERBAL — SALMON. * I. H YACINTHUS ORIENTALI S t 2. E velyn's Sylv a t 3. R EGE I. § 4. B LENHEI M II 5. A RBUTUS Uned O U 6. L ouDO N William Salmon, doctor to Queen Anne, published his Herbal in r7io. It is a huge volume, and from his fulsome dedication to the Queen we may safely say he was " in a big way " when he wrote it. It is the last of the great Herbals. * The Dutch were afraid of a Hyacinth mania about 1734, on the lines of the disastrous Tulip mania of a century before, so much so that a book of that period was republished as a warning of what might be expected if prices became imduly inflated, t Evelyn was both a gardener and a statesman. His " Sylva " was published in 1664, partly to encourage the planting of Oak trees for the Navy. J The elder Regel was one of the best-kno\vn European botanists of the last century. For a list of his works see Jackson's " Guide to the Literature of Botany." § Lancelot Brown, a landscape gardener of the eighteenth century. He excelled in his manage- ment of water. He was nicknamed " Capability " Brown, from his habit of remarking that a place iiad great " capabilities." — Johnson's " History of English Gardening," page 265. i| Arbutus Unedo is popularly called the Strawberry Tree. — Nicholson's Dictionary of Gardening. If J. C. Loudon's " Eucyclopadia of Gardening " is a mine of information on everything connected with garden- ing. It was published in 1829. After Loudon's death new and revised editions continued to be published by his widow. The last we have seen is dated i860. The early editions are particularly valuable on account of their good bibliography, which is omitted in all later ones. Felton, in his work on the " Portraits of Authors on Gardening," draws much of his information from this source. RESULT OF ACROSTIC No. 4. In accordance with our rules, it was possible to secure eight marks, one for each correct " first " and " last," and one for each correct light. The following marks have been awarded : Seven marks, — L. A. Louden, " Ping," " Judith " and " White Lady." Six marks. — " Tempus Fugit," " Hero," R. Chapman, " Jan," " Penwame," " Nautilus," " Westbank," " Tortoise," " Boarsvale " and " Rusticus." Five marks. — " Miller," " St. Kevins," Miss G. H. Jeffreys, " Elm " and " M. M." Four marks. — William Acworth and G. D. King. Three marks. — A. Henderson, W. Bond and W. Slocombe. One mark. — W. Garwood and E. Ballard. As stated in Rule No. 5, published in our issue for November 22, 1913, Acrostic No. 4 completes the first series. In this series it was possible to get a total of 41 marks, and we give 28 THE GARDEN. [January io, 1914- below the names of tlmse -vvhi and over ; " White Lady," 38 '• Hero." 37 ; R. Chapman, " Nautilus," 36 ; " Jan," 35 " Westbank," 35 ; " Elm," 34 " Judith," 33 ; " Tortoise," secured 30 marks L. A. Louden, 38 ; 37; "Ping," 37; ■' Rusticus," 35 ; " Boarsvale," 33 ; ;: ; " Miller," 31 ; and " W. R. D.," 30. Under Rule 8, the first prize of two guineas and the second prize of one guinea will be added together and divided between "White Lady" and L. A. Louden. Under Rule 5, these two competitors will be penalised 12 points in the second series, i.e., .Acrostics Nos. 5 to 8 inclusive. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.- ZVi,' Editor inlciids to make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assist- ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers to Correspondents " columns. All communications should he clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the EDiTOE of THE Garden, 20. Taristock .Street, Coeent Garden. London, W.C. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, eath should be on a separate piece of paper. Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-uool. and flowering shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters on business should be sent to the Publisher. FLOWER GARDEN. SWEET PEAS {La France).~Thf weak conilition may be the result o£ overcrowded plants, or this in conjunction with the distance they are from the light. The vinery is not the best place for them, secmg they require the fullest liRht. Cannot you erect a temporary shelf for a few weeks ? If so, and if you could also give the plants a shift into 8-inch pots, an appreciable improvement might ensue. A little bone-meal with the soil might also strengthen the plants. If you have enough rods, trahi the Kose out fan shape, and in January cut it back to one-half the length of the shoots or to the position of a good plump eye or bud. You do not say if the plant is in a cold or heated green- liouse, and yoii give no particulars as to the mature con- dition of the growth or whether early flowers are required or not, all of which would have assisted to a more lielpful reply. PLANTS FOR EDGING A BORDER (X. F.Z.)— Yellow- flowered subjects suitable for this purpose are decidedly few. While the yellow Alyssum is remarkably showy iu spring, it is not seen to advantage dcrrng the summer months." Sedum kamtschaticum is a pretty yellow- (lowcriug species that grows about six inches high and blooms for some time in the summer. Iberis corresefolia forms a pretty evergreen edging^ and so does the small Periwinkle, Vinca minor. An edging that we have had under our notice, and which much impressed us through- out last summer, consisted of a band of Nepeta Mussinii, and we think this would not fail to give you satisfaction. It grows about fifteen inches high, and the masses of soft greyish-toned foliage impart to it a most restful and pleasing character. The spikes of pale lavender blue flowers, so freely borne throughout tlie summer, form an additional feature of attraction. CALIFORNIAN POPPIES (H. IT.).— There arc two Californian Poppies, and yon do net say to which one yon refer. One is a shrubby, and iu some gardens a sub- shrubby plant, with glauccous leaves and large white flowers. This is known as Komneya Coulteri, or Cali- fornian Tree Poppy. The other is an annual plant called Eschscholtzia cahfornica. l^oth belong to the Poppy family, though neither is a true Poppy. If it is the former plant to which you refer, the seeds may be sown on arrival in ligh' , sandy soil iu a warm greenhouse. When the seedlings are large enough to handle, prick them off singly in bo.xcs at a distance of 2 inches apart each way. When well established, place them in a cool and airy frame, and plant out in a nursery border in May. They ought to flower when two years old. If t!ie Eschscholtzia is meant, keep the seeds in a cool place until ilarcll, then sow them thinly in light soil in a herbaceous border. Allow lilerity of room, and eventually thin the plants out so that they "stand at a distance of 9 inches or so apart. This is a very easy plant to .grow, and often reproduces itself year after year from seeds left in the ground. The flue flowered named kinds are apt to deteriorate, however, if allowed to do tiiis. BROMPTON STOCKS GONE WRONG (/. U . !■ .).— We have carefully examined the leaves of the Brompton Stocks and have failed to find any trace of fungus in them. Their appearance suggests that there may he wireworm or something of that kind at their roots. VIOLETS AND RED SPIDER (B/ncWoct).— The Violets are very badly attacked by red spider. The plants have probably been kept too dry, and almost certainly too warm and close. Syringe them with a solution of potassnuu sulphide, made at the rate of loz. of the sulphide to tlirr,- gallons of water. CARPET PLANTS FOR STANDARD FUCHSIAS {E. B.). — Some of the bedding Violas form a good groundwork for standard Fuchsias; indeed, we do not thhik you will improve upon them for the purpose. For Fuchsia Mrs. Marshall, the soft mauve variety Maggie Mott, one of the very best of hedders, would form a pleasing combina- tion- but if you prefer a Viola of a darker tone, then we can recommend J. B. Riding, a rich, rosy claret- coloured flower. Dwarf plants of a good Heliotrope, such as Lord l^oberts, would also be well suited for the purpose. PLANTS FOR SHADED ROCKERY (Znmeibe).— You ask for the uames of some " conunon rock plants for a tree-shaded rockerv." Any of those named below should succeed, though the measure of success would be in pro- portion to the degree of shade, not many plants thrixing in dense shade. Arabis albida. A. a. flore pleno. Alyssum saxatilc, Aubrietias in shades of blue, lilac, violet, pink and purple, Iberis sompervirens, Coronilla varia, C. iberica. Campanula muralis, C. pusilla, C. p. alba. Polygonum afline Mossy Saxifrages in variety, Acantholimon gluma- ceum, .Mega'sea cordifolla, M. c. purpurea, Orobus roseus, O. vernus, Saponaria ocymoides, Veronica prostrata, Crucianella stylosa coccinea, Achillea tomentosa, Acffina microphylla, Helianthemums in variety, Sedimi spurium cocemeum, S. kamtscliaticuin, S. pulchclhim, S. midden- dorflana, Hepaticas and Omplialoilcs vcrna. Interspersed among these might appear Snowdioi)s, ChiuiuxUjxas, Scillas. Leucojum vernum, autumn and winter flowering Crocuses, .\nemone apennina, the Winter Aconite, and other bulbous or tuberous rooted plants. VARIOUS QUESTIONS (Daisy). The flowering-time of the VcrlKiscum would bi' influenced b\> the locality, and as yon appear to live in a cold district, tlie plants may not flower before August. Both kinds are perennial, but for decorative ettect are best regarded as biennials, whose good flowering would depend upon the leaf de\elopment in the first year. iMid-April we should consider too late a date for sowing, if the idea is to get good specimens. Sutton's Pink Antirrhinum would be best for the border ; the Swan Uiver Daisy would be much too dwarf behind the Nepeta, and even the intermediate .A.ntirrlunum would not be any too tall. You may, however, get the shade of colour 'in the tall Antirrhinum if you wish. A useful annual for carpeting the Azalea bed would be Alyssum maritimum compactum ; it is white flowered, dwarf and free A much better way of carpeting such a bed would be to plant some of the hardy Heaths, either Erica carnea or a good red form of E. vulgaris, such as Alportii. This would flower in autumn ; the first named would flower during the winter months. BULBOUS FLOWERING PLANTS FOR CHURCH DECORATIONS (B. IT. .1.).— The most suitable bulbous plants for your purpose would be Dattodils, Tulips and Spanish 'Irises, and a selection of each of these would provide flowers for cutting in April, iNIay and .Tune. The best Daffodils would be Golden Spur, Emperor, Empress, Barri couspicuus. Sir Watkin, grandis, ornatus, Pocticus, recurvus. Sulphur Phcenix and albicans ; of Tulips. Yellow Prince, \^^lite Pottebakker, White Swan, Rosa Mnndi and Prince of Austria among the early or bedding sorts with Bouton d'Or, Flame, Golden Spire, Inglcscombe Pink, Inglcscombe Scarlet and The Fawn among May- flowering and Cottage varieties. To these could be added some late-flowering Darwin sorts, though we consider the above of a more useful character for the object in view. Of the Irises, British Queen (white), Chrysolora (yellow). Bronze King and Excelsior would be good. Paionies, both single and double, would be serviceable, though the former do not last long. Iris Kaimpfen we should not consider quite suitable. The best plants for later floweriu" also to he planted before the middle of February would be Liliums longifloruin and spcciosum album Krsetzcri. The so-called Spirica japonica would best suit your requirements. TREES AND SHRUBS. FLOWERING SHRUBS FOR A SUNNY PLACE (£. C.).— The follciuiiiu eight shrubs may be expected to give satis- factory nsiilts if planted underthe conditions you descrilie : Berberis stenuplivlla, Spiriea arguta, Ribes sanguineum atrosangnineum, ' Diervilla Abel Carridre, Yihuruum tomentosum plicatum, Cistus laurifolins, Philadelphus Lemoinei erccta and Forsythia suspensa. They may be procured from any of the nurserymen who advertise trees and shrubs in The Garden. SHRUBS FOR FLOWERS (.W. G.).— The following should be of service to vou in the circumstances : Philadelphus orandiflora. P. Lemoinei erectus, P. .Mont Blanc; Lilacs JIme Abel Chateiiuv. Marie Legrayc, Negro, Mine. Lcmoine ; Berberis Darwiiiii. 11. stenophylla, Forsythia suspensa, F. Aitehisonii, Wrigela Aliel Carridre, W. van llouttc, Buddleia variabilis, B. veitchianus. Daphne Mczereum, and Rosa rugosa. You sav nothing of the size and extent of the border, or the soil, but if greater variety should lie desired vou might, provided the soil is suitable, add hybrid Rhododendrons and the hardy Azaleas, the latter being particidarly valuable both at flowering-time and for rich foliage ehe'cts in autlllim. SCALE ON MYRTLE (TT. G. .S.).~The Myrtle is badly attacked by scale insects and will be very difllcult to clean. As many as possible of the little blisters should be removed with a blunt stick, assisted by a dip of soft soap (a handful) into wiiich flowers of sulphur have been kneaded, dissolved in one and a-half gallons of soft water. -\fter this has been done, spray the plant well at weekly intervals for three weeks with parafhn emiUsion. spraying with clear water between tie' operation?,. INJURY TO RHODODENDRON FOLIAGE {Pink Pearl). — The damage done to tlu' foliage of the Rhodo- dendrons is not the result of the attack of a fungus, though one is present on some of the leaves, but the result of drought in the past summer. "Ulicn once the soil in whith the plant is growing becomes really dry. the fungus, wiiich plays the part of root-hairs in these plants, is likely to be killed, and subsequent watering is of httle avail. One sees many .\zaleas killed through allowing the soil to become dry, and it is the common cause of the death of Heaths in houses. PRUNING AVENUE TREES {J. X>.).— Your avenue trees will certainly retiuire pruning if you wish them to develop into really flue specimens. In any cases where there are rival leaders, all must be removed save the centre one. .Uso \vhere the branch system is very dense, a number of branches may be removed with advantage. When branches are developing rapidly in width and the trees are not increasing in height to a corresponding extent, the branches should be shortened. Bottom branches may be removed gradually, but do not take many off at once, or too great an area of hark will be exposed to sun which has previously been shaded. All cuts must he made parallel with and close to the bark of the trunk or main branches, and all wounds must be drcssid with coal-tar as soon as made. DWARF-GROWING SHRUBS (Terosram).— The follow- ing dwarf-growing shrubs would be likely to give satis- factory results in the bed you describe : Philadelphus Lemoinei erectus. Genista hispanica, Tamarix pentaudra,. Prunus japonica flore pleno, Xalmia latifolia and Pieris japonica for the hack ; and Cydonia .Maulci superba,. Spiraia japonica Anthony Waterer, Dabcecia polifoUa, Erica cinerea and varieties. Calluna vulgaris and varieties. Erica carnea, Leiophyllum bnxifolium, Hypericum moserianum, Berberis Wilsonre, Genista pilosa, Cytisns Beanii. C. kewensis and Kalmia angustifolia varieties for other places. The Ericas, Callunas. Leiophyllum and Hypericum should be planted in small groups. The El'ieagnus and Pittosporum you mention are likely to grow at least 12 feet high, and are not suitable to place among small-growing plants. . INJURY TO PRIVET (TF. B. S.).— The Privet branch sent for inspection bore the fructification stage of the coral spot fungus (Xcctria cinnaharrna). This fungus- often appears on dead wood, and may usually be found on old Pea sticks, but it is also found on living branches. The spores probably find an entrance through wounds, and the mycehum is present in branches for a consider- able time "before the visible or fruiting stage appears^ By that time the injury is complete and there is no chance of saving an infested branch. It, however, is more often found on branches of trees or shrubs, and may take one branch of a tree and cause no further harm to that par- ticular specimen. On the other hand, it may spread from branch to branch of a shrub and eventually destroy the whole plant. The only way to cope with the disease is to cut away and burn any branch wiiich hears the small red fungus growths, and also all dead wood. As your Privets are old plants, it would, perhaps, be advisable to dig them up and burn them, and begin again with young plants. Vigorous young plants 2 feet to 3 feet high can be procured very cheaply, and they transplant without the slightest fear of them not re-establishing themselves.. No real good can be done by using a fungicide for this disease. THE GREENHOUSp. INJURY TO SCHIZANTHUSES {.Mrs. C.).— The Schizan- thus plants are atlaeki.l at the rout by a fungus, a species of Fusarium, which is killing the lower part of the stem and causing the withering of the upper part. This disease is very similar to, and perhaps identical with, the sleepy disease of Tomatoes. Cure is impossible, and pre- vention consists in sterilising the soil by steaming it before planting. PLANTS' FOR WINDOW (J/ r«. i. Tr.).—(1) The success attending the cultivation of dilfcrent plants in the window of vmir drawing-room speaks highly for the care and attention that yon bestow upon them. We have little doubt that a Camelha would succeed under these conditions, but wc do not feel so sure of a Cape Heath. Two of the most likely to thrive with this treatment are Erica gracilis, whose myriads of tiny rose purple blossoms are borne in autumn and winter, and Erica melanthera, a winter flowerer with small mauve-eolouicil blossoms and dark-tinted anthers. These may during the summer he stood out of doors, provided they are well supplied with water. (2) Weak soot-water is a good stimulant for Ferns, but it would be better still to alternate it with a little Clay's Fertilizer, which can be safely applied to Ferns Of course, you will take care that only a very moderate dose is given. (3) As your Jessamine grows so strongly and yet flowers in a perfectly satisfactory manner, we do not think you can improve upon the practice which has proved to be so successful. It certainly seems a pity to cut awav so much wood, hut as this is necessary to ke'ep it within bounds, we do not sec how it can in any wav he avoided. When cutting it back to the necessary extent, any old and exhausted wood should be removed entirely r^«- GARDEN t *«?=r" ^ST"^*"^- -^M. "^^ No. 2200.— Vol. LXXVIII. January 17, 1914. CONTBNT8. NOTKS OF THE AVKKK 29 CORRESPONDENCK The Heftth garden . . 30 The Bird of Paradise Flower 30 The Gold M o h u r tree 31 Protecting alpines in winter 31 Thatched cottages . . 31 Forthcomiufi events . . 31 Seasonable notes on Chrysanthemums . . 31 The winter spraying of fruit trees . . . . 31 A beautiful Barberry. . 32 CoLODRED Plate Kaising tuberous Begonias from seed 32 A little-known Orchid 33 Some useful plants for the rock garden . . 33 Rose-^'rowiug in town gardens 34 In a Hampsiiirc garden 'i't A noble border plant . . 35 The herbaceous or mixed border . . . . 38 The training of wall fruit trees 37 Why seeds sometimes fail 37 Gardening ok the Week For Southern gar- dens 38 For Nortlleru gar- dens 38 Renovating old Orapo Vines 39 Editor's Table ... .. 39 Gardening acrostics . . 39 Answers to Corre- spondents Flower garden . . . . 40 Trees and shrubs . . 40 Fruit garden . . . . 40 Greenhouse . . . . 40 NOTES OF THE WEEK. 111I.0STRAT10NS. The Bird of Paradise Flower 30 Fruiting sprays of the new Berberis polyautha . . . . 32 Tuberous Begonias Coloured plate A rare Orchid : Paphinia cristata 33 Erodium trichomansefoUum, a dwarf Heron's Bill . . 34 Seedlings of Eremurus himalaicus 35 Propagation of herbaceous plants 36 Larkspur seedling, showing stage of gro\vth to plant 36 A well-trained fan-shaped Pear tree 37 BDITORIAI< NOTICBS. Every department of horticulture is repre- sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions relating to matters upon which they wish expert advice. The Editor welcomes 'photographs, articles and notes, but he mill not be responsible ior their safe return. All reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted contributioni. As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated. It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo- grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with. The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden will alone be recognised as acceptance. Offices . 20, Taoiitock Street, Covent Garden, W.C. Plants Protected from Frost.— Plants that are protected from frost should, during a spell of mild weather, have their covering removed during the day where it is possible, as it helps to retard the plants, which would otherwise become active under the influence of protection. Discretion should be used, for plants that are frozen ought not to be uncovered, but left until the frost has gone. This also applies to plants in frames. Shortage of Cut Flowers. — During the last ten days cut llowers ha\'e been exceedingly scarce, and in Covent Garden Market prices have been higher than for many years past. In the provinces some of the smaller florists' shops have had to resort to artificial flowers to meet the deficiency. The mild weather experienced until Christmas brought many flowers along too rapidly, and those that would under ordinary circumstances have been available now were sold three weeks ago. Since then cold weather has been experi- enced in France and this country, and has retarded the later crops. The shortage is expected to last for at least another week. Pruning Winter Jasmine. — This beautiful hardy shrub has flowered earlier than usual in most districts this winter, and now most of the blossoms have departed. Although much pruning is not needed, that which is required should be done during the next few weeks. Unless a bush is overcrowded, or encroaching on space required for other plants, it may be left alone. Where, however, growth is too dense, the oldest shoots ought to be removed. This will encourage the formation of stout growths that will flower freely next winter. If the shrub appears to be starved, a top-dressing, 2 inches thick, of well-decayed manure applied now will work wonders during the growing season. Davidia involucrata. — There is an interesting reference to this tree in Mr. E. H. Wilson's new book, " A Naturalist in Western China." It appears in the fascinating chapter entitled " In Quest of Flowers " : " Ascending a precipice with difficulty we soon reach the Davidia trees. There are over a score of them growing on a steep rocky declivity ; they vary from 35 feet to 60 feet in height, and the largest is 6 feet in girth. . . . The distinctive beauty of Davidia is in the two snow white connate bracts which subtend the flower proper. These are always unequal in size, the larger usually 6 inches long by 3 inches broad, and the smaller 3J inches by 2J inches. At first greenish, they become pure white as the flowers mature, and change to brown with age. The flowers and their attendant bracts are pendu- lous on fairly long stalks, and when stirred by the slightest breeze they resemble huge butter- flies hovering among the trees. ... To my mind Davidia involucrata is at once the most interesting and beautiful uf all trees of the nortli- temperate flora." To Make Stoneworl^ Look Green and Old.— We are occasionally asked if there is any chemical that will make stone steps or pedestals look old jiermanently. So far as we know there is not, l)ut the following treatment will, in the course of a few weeks or months, give the stone a genuine mossy appearance. Wash down the bark of one or more large trees, and add to the greenish water thus obtained a little cow-manure and very little soot. Paint or sprinkle the stone two or three times with the liquid. If this is done at once, the stone will have taken quite a green, mossy tint by the spring, which will increase as time goes on. Flakes of moss obtained from old walls can frequently be encouraged to establish themselves on the stone, and even if the moss itself dies, the spores almost invariably germinate. Climbers for Rambling Over Large Trees.— There are many climbing plants that look very effective when rambling over large trees. The common Virginian Creeper, as well as several other forms of »\mpelopsis (which, correctly speaking, are Vitis) look very charming during the autumn hanging against the dark foliage of a Pine tree. The same may be said of Poly- gonum baldschuanicum, -with its pink and white trusses of flowers, or P. multiflorum, which is a more vigorous and faster grower. Clematis montana and C. Flammula are excellent for such a purpose, and even the common Traveller's Jo\' (C. Vitalba) may be used for the wilder parts of the garden, as it is ornamental both in flower and fruit. Rosa moschata will often ramble over the top of a Pine tree r30 feet high, and look quite a picture in summer with its many white flowers. .All of them may be planted now, and only require a little attention till they have become established. Pruning Outdoor Vines. — Grape Vines grow- ing outdoors, either against a wall or poles, should be pruned without delay. If grown upon the spur system, the lateral shoots should be cut back to about two buds from the base ; but if on the extension system, the wood growths laid in during the summer to take the place of those that bore fruit during the past year must be cut back to a plump bud, leaving about four feet of the shoots. The last-named system is prefer- able for Grapes growing out of doors, as the shoots grow away more freely than those on the spur system. Should the Vine be infested with red spider, give the wood a dressing with a mixture of water, soft soap and flowers of sulphur, with quicklime. The mixture is made by boiling ilb. of sulphur with 2lb. of quicklime in 4 gallons of water ; then to every 40Z. of this add 20z. of soft soap and r gallon of boiling water, thoroughly mixing them and keeping the whole stirred when in use. When ready, it may be applied to the bark with a stiff brush and well worked in. This will be found a cheap and effective preparation. 30 THE GARDEN. [January 17, iqi4. CORRESPONDENCE. ( The Editor is iwt responsible for the expressed by correspondents.) opinions The Herb Garden. — Seeing in your issue of The Garden for January lo a request by one of your correspondents, " Herbs," for adNTce upon making a herb garden, and being myself interested in making such a garden, I feel I must let him know of an excellent and most charming book entitled I charming, but rendered as a whole less effective have brighter days before them. They go ahead and gain strength with the lengthening days, and never look back. Mr. Engelmann publicly stated that his tests over two years proved that January-struck cuttings will give a far larger crop than October or November struck plants. — T. W. Colour Effects witli Annual Flowers. — The coloured illustration of annuals given with January 3 issue presents some problems worth considera- tion. The pink and rosy carmine on the right are " The Herb Garden," written by Mrs. Bardswell and published at 7s. 6d. by Messrs. Black and Son, which has been of the greatest service to me. The book is illustrated in colour, and is full of useful and instructive information, giving by the intrusion of the white Godetia. The most faulty part of the composition, however, is the deep blue at the edge. Had cream been used instead, the whole would have been sweetened. Blue, to have been effective with the other colours. lists of many herbs, &c., which the average person \ should have been very light, or, best of all, mauve, would know nothing about, and also the uses to : and preferably introduced near the back. The which these can be put. There is so great a charm 1 grass verge is too narrow, and at the very least about the very words " herb garden " that it is most pleasant to find the old love of this phase of' gardening reviving. Your correspondent is indeed fortunate to have his herb garden given to him. — Garden Lover. The Bird of Paradise Flower.— Thi-^ is the popular and appropriate nanir given to the South African genus Stre- litzia. The most magnificent species is S. Reginae, with large orange and purple flowers of gorgeous colouring. This species and its beautiful variety citrina are now to be seen flowering in the Mexican House at Kew, where their striking appearance never fails to arouse the interest of admiring visitors. S. Regins was grown at Kew as far back as 1773, but at that time it was not a success, owing, no doubt, to the fact that the roots were confined in flower- pots or tubs. In 1795 a plant flowered for the first time in the Apothecaries' Garden at Chelsea. Here the plant seems to have fared better, owing to its roots having extended by accident into a bed of rotten tan. When planted out in the beds of a warm house or stove, Strelitzias grow and flower freely, pro- viding they receive a fair amount of sunshine. The genus is related to Musa, and it is interesting to note that in South Africa the seeds of S. Reginse are eaten by Kaffirs. — C. Q. Perpetual-Flowering Carnations. — I was attracted by the note on Car- nations, page 24, issue January 10, by Mr. R, P. Brotherston, and par- ticularly by the paragraph wherein he states that propagation begins early in October. While this may answer in Scotland, I venture to state that all the most famous commercial growers will admit that October and November struck cuttings do not make such profitable plants as those struck in December, January or February. At the last conference of the Perpetual Flowering Carnation Society, and also at the one in December, 1912, Mr. C. Engelmann and others stated that they were convinced that the later-struck cuttings were the best from all points of view. Mr. C. AUwood, easily one of the most expert writers on Carnations, explains the why and wherefore, and it is simply this : October cuttings have two dull declining months ahead of them, and during this period they are weakening, not gaining strength. Late December and Later cuttings A BIRD OF PARADISE FLOWER (STRELITZI.\ REGIN.E CITRINA) NOW FLOWERING IN THE MEXICAN HOUSE AT KEW. should be twice the width. A deep blue might have been used on the left border, but there also well to the back. On the whole I would incline to banish blue from both borders. I wonder how the compositions strike others who have given colours some attention. — R. P. Brother- ston, Prestonkirh, N.B. New Potatoes in Midwinter. — We have had a considerable supply of new (or young) Potatoes during the recent Christmas season, the supply being produced by two distinct and simple methods. The first was by filling biscuit tins with young Potatoes in July. After putting on the close- fitting lids, these were secured in position by means of a piece of lacing wire. The tins were then buried 2 feet deep in the ground, where they were allowed to remain till the Potatoes were wanted. The second method employed was a little more striking, and was as follows : A number of the largest available tubers were selected from some maincrop Potatoes in spring. These were spread out on trays, and the young growths picked off every fortnight till the first week in August. At this date some old potting soil, moderately damp, was got ready, also a good- sized packing-case. A layer of soil 2 inches deep was placed in the bottom of the bo^x, and on it tubers were laid 2 inches apart from surface to surface, and this was repeated till the case was filled, finishing off with the usual layer of soil. The case was then placed in an outhouse and allowed to remain there till the Potatoes were wanted at Christmas-time. The case was then emptied of its contents by being turned upside down, when it was found that the old tubers (now shrivelled up) had, without the aid of leaf, stem or light, produced a fair crop of nice young tubers, dry and mealy. I may say that _ in both cases the tubers had the llavour characteristic of young Potatoes grown under normal conditions. I am aware that these methods are not new, but they do not appear to be generally known. — Ch.^rles Comfort, Midlothian. Two Excellent Kales. — There are two varieties of Kale that do not seem to be generally known, but that are both of such high merit that they should be in everj' garden where the best vegetables are appreciated. The Marrow Kale is for summer and autumn and until frost comfes, for it is not very hardy. The stem is the part eaten. The leaves of a coarse kind have long been used as cattle food, especially on the Continent ; but the garden kind, cut before the stem has become hard and fibrous, is a truly delicious vegetable. In taste it is much like Kohl Rabi, but is more tender in consistency and more delicate in flavour. The stem is nearly two feet long, a little swollen in the middle of the length. To prepare it for table the outer skin is cut off, and the stem, which will now be about an inch in diameter, is cut across in sections rather less than a quarter of an inch thick, boiled in salted water and served with a thin white sauce. The other kind is the Russian Kale. What is now offered must be a recently much-improved kind, for in that admir- able book, " The Vegetable Garden," by Messrs. Vilmorin, it is described as worth- less. Certainly the vegetable I am now and which I grew, together with the Marrow Kale, by the advice of a representative of Messrs. James Carter and Co., who sent me the seed, is quite the best of the several kinds of Cabbage I have now in the garden. It has a tender texture and an excellent flavour, with that pleasant sweetness that the hardy Cabbages seem only to acquire when they have felt the frost. When half grown the Russian Kale has a curious appearance. The earlier leaves have hardly any blade, and the whitish ribs and nerves stand out like the branches of stags' horns. Now it has the central rosette of more normal Cabbage form, which is the edible part. This and the succeeding sprouts will be of great value through the winter, for it is extremely hardy. During the recent trials at Wisley the Russian Kale received high honours. — G. Jekvll. enjoymg JAt^oARy t7, 1514.; THE GARDExV. 31 The Gold Mohur Tree.— In your issue of the 3rd inst. I find that " G. D." has enqtiired about the Gold Mohur tree. I know it by appearance very well ; it is one of the sights of the Shiny East. I am nearly certain that it is a variety of Poinciana, but I have no books on Eastern botanical subjects, so am unable to verify my assertion. I am inclined to believe that it originally came from the West Indies, but it is found in the cities of India and Ceylon. — P. Tillard. Protecting Alpines in Winter. — The rockery as a feature of artistic gardening has come to stay, but the satisfaction of picturesqueness is often nullified by the high mortality among choice plants during the ever-changing climatic con- ditions of our long winters. Frost is not a danger for serious consideration ; but rain, stagnant water and a cold, sodden soil spell ruin to many of our finest plants. I have found that an excel- lent method ot keeping down the number of losses is to scatter gravelly matter round those that I prize most. I have even gone the length of wedging small whinstones, such as are used for roads, round the necks of some plants, and I never yet had cause to regret the time taken up in the work. Keep the foliage off the cold soil, which is almost continuously soaked during these months ; see that the " neck " of each plant is kept erect, and the result will be most satis- factory. By careful work of this kind I have managed to keep such dainty little subjects as Saxifraga Griesbachii and S. Stribnryi, as well as many others, while my nearest neighbour finds that he needs to get a new stock every spring. — Craigielea, Glasgow. Thatched Cottages. — In reference to the para- graph on page i of January 3 issue, while I yield to no one in appreciation of the cesthetic virtues of thatch and detestation ot the many ugly modern buildings of all sizes, I think it should not be over- looked that there are some thatched buildings too intimate knowledge of which would certainly entail disenchantment. Thus, I remember a very agreeable railway journey in company with a large family of countryfolk, during which a chance remark in praise of thatch elicited the information that they had suffered greatly from the combination of a sieve-like thatched roof and a miserly landlord. .\lso I have heard quite alarming stories bearing upon thatch as a harbour- age for fleas, and from time to time one reads most harrowing accounts of how quickly fire spreads in a village of thatched roofs. Certainly the question of roofing material seems to me pre-eminently a matter for cottagers to decide for themselves, though there can hardly be a doubt that such people as touring motorists (who are responsible for such serious new discomforts to villagers) would be one and all enthusiastic " thatchites." I really must venture to dissent from the description of the fine large house illustrated on page 9 of your issue of January 3 as a " cottage " (unless, indeed, it refers to the wholly dwarfed edifice faintly discernible in the background). I am, of course, well aware that established usage can be pleaded for calling houses " cottages," which, to my idea, bear about as much resemblance to the genuine article as a pigsty does to a palace ; but is it not a most foolish affectation ? — Arthur Garnett, Kew. SEASONABLE NOTES ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS. FORTHCOMING EVENT. January 27.— Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting and Exhibition at Vincent Square, West- minster. THE value of Chrysanthemum blooms in December and at Christmas-time is very great. In some seasons they are of more value than in others. Notwithstanding the fact that the past month has been a favourable one for flowers of various kinds, those of the Autumn Queen have been more appreciated than ever, and the quahty of the blooms has been higher, too. I think the principal reason for the high quality and general good appearance of the flowers is the fact that more cultivators have restricted the' number of varieties grown and had more plants of each. Scarcity of Cuttings. — There was a general scarcity of cuttings on the old roots of many varieties last year, notably on those grown for late blooming. The old stools must be carefully preserved on high shelves in greenhouses or in cold frames. If space cannot be spared for the old plants in their large pots, carefully turn out the balls of soil, remove the drainage and reduce the balls quite two-thirds. Then pack them close together in boxes about six inches deep, filling up all spaces with a compost of sand, sifted loam and leaf-soil. Make it moderately firm, water through a fine-rosed watering-can, and place the boxes in a warm position in a greenhouse. I have often secured a nice lot of sucker cuttings in the way described from old plants that seemed to be quite hopeless. Amateur cultivators who like to grow a good batch of plants for the supply of cut flowers at Christmas-time should now duly note how the varieties they have grown this season have succeeded. Then any failures ex- perienced can be avoided another year. The following are Splendid Varieties for the production of blooms late in December, at Christmas and during the first half of January : Mme. Oberthur, white ; Helena Williams, a pale yellow sport from the latter ; Mrs. David Syme, pure white, greenish centre ; A. J. Balfour, a lovely pink, compact blooms ; December Gold, mid-December ; Mrs. H. Turner, velvety crimson (when the plants are pinched they branch freely) ; Mary Thorpe, soft pink, easy to grow as a bush, on which two 'dozen blooms may be grown ; Niveus, a good white ; Queen of the Exe, pale blush, the plant lifts well ; Thorpe's Apricot, a lovely flower for table decoration ; and Souvenir de Scalarandis, deep bronze, one of the best for planting out and lifting. A good companion to the variety A. J. Balfour is Thorpe's Christmas Rose, which is a deep rose pink in colour. William Turner, if grown as a bush, would come in early in December. For Christmas-time and a week or two later Western King, pure white ; Nagoya, a deep golden yellow that keeps well ; Baldock's Crim- son ; Mrs. Greenfield, golden yellow, reflexed blooms ; Mrs. J. Thompson, pure white ; and Embleme Poitevine, an incurved, pure yellow, should be grown. If two yellows and two whites only are required, then select Embleme Poitevine, Nagoya, Mrs. J. Thompson and Western King. It is important to commence with good sturdy cuttings that are produced from the base of the old plants, and to avoid stem cuttings. Avon. THE WINTER SPRAYING OF FRUIT TREES. THE practice of spraying is becofnihg much more common than formerly. Fruit-growers are realising the import' ance of the work when carried out properly. They find, when spraying is done systematically during the winter, spring and summer, that the trees give much better results. There is no doubt that if spraying and other preventive measures to check the spread of various insect pests and fungoid diseases were made compulsory by Government, all fruit-growers would benefit to a considerable extent. Spraying while the trees are dormant is an excellent time for the inexperienced to make a start, as there is not the same risk as when the trees have made leaves, although there is not the slightest reason why an injury should be done to the most delicate tree if the instructions given are carefully carried out. Several home-made sprays can be employed at this season with advantage, and as some prefer to prepare their own washes, I will give a few simple recipes for the removal of moss and lichen from the trees, also of such pests as eggs of the winter moth, woolly aphis, mussel scale, ova, Apple blossom weevil, oyster-shell bark lice, earwigs and the caterpillar of the Codlin moth in its cocoon. Lime-Wash. — One of the most safe, efficacious and easily applied is quicklime. Not only does lime cleanse the trees ot moss and other extraneous growth, but it is valuable as a stimulant to crops grovring rmdemeath the trees, as well as being beneficial to the trees them- selves, especially where lime is deficient in the soil. In sandy soil, or in that with a gravel or clay subsoil, lime is largely employed by fruit- growers for the double purpose. The best hard- stone lime is necessary, as obtained from Buxton ; not that which is soft, as is sometimes the case when made from some kinds of chalk. Eighty- six pounds of lime are sufficient for fifty gallons of water. This amount of lime should be put into a galvanised vessel, adding a small quantity of water to start the lime dissolving. As this proceeds add more water, constantly stirring the whole with a shovel, never allowing it to become quite dry nor making it too wet. Just keep it sufficiently thin to stir and become regularly dis- solved. When this has taken place, strain the whole through a fine sieve into another vessel to remove any small portions that may tend to choke the pumps or spray nozzles. Add water sufficient for the quantity noted. There are various times when lime spraying can be done. Some begin in November and December, others not until the buds are bursting in spring. In my case I usually begin the second week in April. A large grower of Plums near here does not spray the trees imtil the blooms are fully developed, and although many persons would be afraid to do this so late, I can assiure readers there is no danger in so doing. The kind of sprayer to use is purely a matter of choice. I prefer one with a pneumatic action, which leaves both hands at liberty to work the sprays. "Various lengths ot hose and lances are required, according to the height of the trees to be sprayed. Practice will soon teach a person how much liquid to use in coating the trees. It is surprising what a small quantity is required to cover a branch. The clusters of spurs and i-ankered portions — if any— 32 THE GARDEN. [January 17, 1914. should be carefully covered, as it is in such hiding- places that the insects lurk. A spraying syringe answers well where only a few trees have to be done. Copper Sulphate makes a capital winter wash lor Apple scab, which is one of the worst enemies the Apple-grower has to contend with. Dissolve 2lb. of copper sulphate in 50 gallons of soft water. This is a cheap wash, and will kill all fungus with which it comes in contact. In applying this wash, use a fine nozzle, making a thin spray and thoroughly forcing the liquid into any cankered parts. Lime Soda and Salt Wash is easily made and ^ipplied. and prevents the hatching of the eggs of Apple sucker and Plum aphis, and also cleanses the trees of moss and lichen. The quantities are licwt. of good hardstone lime, 351b. of agricultural salt and 31b. of common washing soda to 100 gallons of water. Slake and strain the lime through a fine sieve, dissolve the soda in hot and the salt in cold water, adding both to the strained lime. February is early enough to commence this spraying, continuing until the buds are ready to burst ; then cease. Woburn Wash. — What is known as the Woburn wash, and an effec- tive one, is applied from November until the end of February. It is made as follows : Caustic soda, i^lb. ; copper sulphate, ijlb. ; lime, Jib.; paraffin emulsion, 5 pints ; water, 10 gallons. Dissolve the copper sulphate in 6 gallons of water and slake the lime in 3 gallons of water. The dissolved copper sulphate should be nm through a fine sieve to remove any portions of a gritty character. Then add the parafhn emulsion and stir them together, adding the caustic soda previously dissolved and suffi- cient water to make 10 gallons. The paraffin emulsion requires careful preparation. Boil a gallon of skim milk gently, adding 2 gallons of paraffin by pouring it gently into the middle of the milk, but not in sufficient quantity to take the milk off the boil. Add rjlb. of soft soap, gently whipping it up in the middle of the vessel. Keep it away from the side of the vessel, as it is so liable to bum. Of prepared washes which I know- to be effective and which are no trouble to prepare, Bentley's Con- centrated Alkali Wash is most efficacious in cleansing the trees from moss and lichen, rendering the bark quite bright and imparting a dark colour to it. In using this mi,\ture I would caution users not to drench the trees unnecessarily with it, especially standards, because the stems become too saturated with the wash nmning down, collecting as it does from the branches to the stem, and, of course, the older the tree the more numerous are the lodgments in the stem for the wash to collect. Simply moisten the whole of the branches with a fine spray that is sufficient for the purpose. Dissolve the contents of one tin in 15 gallons of slightly warm, soft water. Bishop's Waltham, Hants. E. Molvneu.x, A BEAUTIFUL BARBERRY. Berberis polvantha. This ornamental Barberry was introduced a few years ago from China by Mr. E. H. Wilson, who describes it as one of the best flowering shrubs in the whole of the Berberis family native of China. A deciduous species, B. polyantha grows 5 feet to 10 feet in height, forming a large, much-branched bush. The leaves grow in clusters, pleasing light green in colour, obovate, and about an inch long. The attractive golden yellow flowers are borne in fairly large panicles, which are 6 inches or more in length. These are followed by numerous COLOURED PLATE. PL.ATB 1485. RAISING T FRUITING SPRAYS OF THE NEW BERBERIS POLYANTHA. THIS ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SPECIES OF ITS FAMILY. rather small coral red fruits, which hang on the bushes into the New Year, long after the foliage has fallen. It thrives under similar conditions to other members of the family, and is readily raised from seeds. Mr. A. E. Pratt, who collected herbarium specimens in Western China during 1889 and 1890, appears to have been the first to discover the plant, though it was apparently left to Mr. E. H. Wilson to introduce the first plants to our gardens. He collected seeds at an altitude of 6,000 feet to 10,000 feet on the uplands of the Chino-Tibetan borderland. TUBEROUS BEGONIAS FROM SEED. IME was when tuberous Begonias were largely increased by means of cuttings, but now the art of seed-saving has become such an exact science that the single varieties can be practically obtained true from seed. For the choicer double forms propagation by cuttings is still followed, but seed saved from a good collec- tion will yield a large percentage of fine double flowers such as are invaluable for purposes of decora- tion, either indoors or out. Begonia seed may be sown any time during the first three or four months of the year ; but where the plants are required to yield a good return of blossoms during the summer of the year in which they are sown, this operation must be carried out in January or February. The pots or pans must be perfectly clean and effectually drained to within 2 inches or 3 inches of the surface. The Best Soil for Seed-Sowing. — .A suitable compost for the recep- tion of the seeds may be formed of two parts of good friable loam to three parts of leaf-mould, with a liberal sprinkling of sand or equal parts of leaf-mould and loam and sand combined. Tliis material must then be thoroughly rubbed through a sieve with a quarter of an inch mesh, the rougher portions being put on one side in order to place themimmediately over the drainage material. The leaf-mould used must be of good quality, and, if possible, from such trees as Oak and Beech. It will be a very great advantage to thoroughly sterilise the soil before using. The prepared compost which has passed through the quarter of an inch mesh may then be put in its place to witliin half an inch of the rim of the pot. It must be pressed down moderately firm and made level, but not patted hard on the top, as is so often done. Next pass a little of the prepared soil through a sieve with an eiglith of an inch mesh, and finish olf the pots or pans with a layer of this finer material. The soil must then be thoroughly watered, which may be done by means of a very fine rose ; but a better plan is to stand the pots or pans in a vessel of water, which must be below the rims of the receptacles. In this way the water will slowly enter by the hole in the bottom and gradually soak through the whole of the soil. After the seed is sown, watering must be done in the same way, as by this means the minute seeds are not disturbed in the least. Sowing the Seed. — The pots having been prepared and watered, the seed should be sown while the surface is still wet, and on this the tiny seeds will at once adhere. Great care must be IS Supplement lo THE GARDEN. January \-jtli, 1914. .^00'0 > ^/ X ^ TUBEROUS BEGONIA KING GEORGE V. Hiiihon & Kcui-iis. Lid., Prnilcr^. l.niidun. S.B. January 17, 1914. THE GARDEN. 33 taken not to sow too thickly, to obviate which some cultivators mix a little very dry and fine silver sand with it, while others prefer to sow direct without this mixture. From its minute character the seed will not need covering, but a sheet of glass may be laid over the pot till germi- nation takes place. After-Treatment. — The pots must then be placed in a structure with a minimum night temperature of 65°, rising, of course, during the day. If the weather is genial, the soil may require no more watering till the young plants appear ; but in any case, if watering is needed, it should be done as before directed. The Seedlings. — As soon as the tiny plants are large enough to handle, they must be pricked off into other pots, pans or boxes. These should be prepared in much the same way as for the sowing of the seed. The operation of pricking off is an exceedingly delicate one, and is best accomplished by using two pointed sticks about the size of a pencil. In one a notch should be cut in the Shape of a narrow V. This must be manipulated by the left hand, its use being to lift up the tiny plant and place it in a hole previously pre- pared by the pointed stick held in the right hand. This must also be used to press the soil around the roots. When a pot is finished, it must be watered as before and returned to the warm structure whence it has come. Shading from bright sunshine will, of course, be necessary, but particularly so till the roots take possession of the new soil. The Young Plants. — As the young plants develop they must, when suffi- ciently advanced, be potted singly into 2i-inch or 3-inch pots, using much the same compost as before, but it need not be sifted so finely. They must not be allowed to get pot-bound, and for their next shift a larger proportion of loam may be added to the compost. Before bedding- out-time the plants should be gradu- ally hardened off, at which period they will, if they have done well, be good, sturdy examples in 4-inch pots. From these pots those intended for l>edding may be planted out ; but where required for greenhouse decora- tion, they must be shifted into larger pots. If carefully attended to, they will flower throughout the summer and well on into the autumn. The principal pests that attack tuberous Begonias are aphides, the Begonia mite and eelworm. Aphides can be readily destroyed by fumigation or vaporising, while this latter, if persisted in, will keep the mite in check. This mite is a most insidious foe, as it often does irre- parable' damage before its presence is suspected. Badly affected plants should be dipped in some insecticide into whose composition nicotine enters largely. Eelworm, which has been a good deal in evidence within the last few years, is present in the soil and makes its way into the tissues of the plant. The potting soil should be sterilised in some way or other. A very simple method was given by Mr. C. F. Langdon of Bath in his paper read at a meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society last August, namely, to mix a 4-inch potful of newly slaked lime with every eight bushels of soil, well mixing it a few days before using. He advised the use of a little more lime on suspected soils. H. P. [The plant from which our coloured plate was prepared was kindly furnished by Messrs. T. S. Ware, Limited, of Feltham. — Ed.] SOME USEFUL PLANTS FOR THE ROCK GARDEN. ERODIUMS OR HERON'S BILLS. A LITTLE-KNOWN ORCHID. Paphinia cristata. The Orchid family contains many remarkable species and varieties. Many of them are of a very complex structure, and some are of sur- passing beauty. The singular-looking species illustrated on this page may perhaps be considered more curious than beautiful. It is, however, of very striking appearance. The flowers on the outside are more or less white, but within they T HE genus Erndium does not seem to be cultivated in the alpine garden so much as its beauty and decorative value justifies. While some species are inclined to be tender — or at least liable to vanish during our miserable winters — very many of them are by no means difficult to cultivate, provided we give them very gritty soil from which all surplus moisture readily drains away, and a position open to the sun all day. When visiting Geneva last summer I was much struck by the varied species of Erodium grown by M. Dallinges at A BLARE ORCHID (PAPHINIA CRISTATAI. THE FLOWERS ARE BANDED AND STRIPED IN DEEP^ CHOCOLATE PURPLE. are interruptedly banded and striped with deep Chene-Bourg, purple or chocolate maroon. Moreover, the flowers are crested — hence the specific name cristata — and the heavily lined sepals and petals are from 3 inches to 4 inches long. This plant has in recent times created a good deal of interest among lovers of rare Orchids, and last July it was granted an award of merit from the Royal Horticultural Society when shown by Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Hay- ward's Heath. It is not, however, a new species, for it was introduced from Trinidad as long ago as 1834. suburb of that beautiful city, and later I obtained a collection from him. For their reception I rebuilt a portion of my tiny garden, putting in, at a depth of 2 feet, a layer 6 inches thick of burnt ballast the size of chickens' eggs, and above this a compost of loam, sand, burnt ballast grit, and old mortar, in about equal proportions, in addition to a small quantity of leaf-mould. Among the species which are thriving apace under these conditions are Erodium chrysanthum, E. Guiccardi, E. daucoides (the Carrot-leaved Erodium), E. macradenum, E. sibthorpianum, E. In common with many other orchidaceous j corsicum, E. supracanum, together with its beautiful plants, Paphinia cristata has the misfortune white form, and E. trichoraansefolium. As will to possess many synonyms. In addition to its ■ be seen from the illustration on page 34, the present name it has been placed under the genera foliage of the last-named plant is very dwart, Maxillaria and Lycaste, although the specific compact, and somewhat glaucous ; indeed, under name cristata has been applied in all instances, certain conditions of lighting it is quite silvery. The 34 THE GARDEN. [January 17, 1Q14. Bowers are white, with five rosy purple veins on each of the five petals.' The two upper petals display a silvery black blotch at their base, and upon these the veins are very pronounced. During the end of May, through June and July until August, the flowers were produced in quanti- ties, while seed was formed from every blossom. One very interesting feature in connection with many of the Erodiums is the way in which the angle of the flower-stalks varies after the embryo fruit ROSE-GROWING IN GARDENS. TOWN G OOD red Roses are still scarce in the Hybrid Tea section, despite the efforts of the principal raisers to fulfil our requirements. It would seem now, however, that we are within measurable distance of having is pollinated. As a rule, the flowers are produced our desires gratified in this respect. Readers of in clusters of five upon short stalks, rising from I Mr. Molyneux's interesting " Notes on the Newer the upper part of a rigid main stalk some 5 inches or 9 inches long ; and when they open they are in the same plane as this main stalk, viz., pointing upwards. After the fruit is fertilised, the short footstalk bends from the point of juncture at a right angle (sometimes even more than 150°), Roses " will have observed his unstinted praise of George Dickson. Everything seems to point to this variety becoming the most popular red for town as well as country, and I have heard nothing but praise of it yet. Of Edward Mawley great things were expected, but it while the fruit itself also alters its angle upon the has proved disappointing. ERODIUM TRICHOMAN/EFOLIUM, A DWARF HERON's BILL WITH WHITE FLOWERS AND CURIOUS SEED-PODS. footstalk in such a way as to still point directly upwards, though distant from the unopened flowers by the length of the short stalk (usually about an inch), this leaving ample room for the later flower to expand. 1 imagine this curious movement (which is very decided, and in no way connected with drooping from the increasing weight of the fruit) is to displace the very large, spear-like seed-pods as far from the buds as possible, thereby preventing the latter from hindering the opening or pollination of the former as far as possible. Owing to the beautiful downy character of the foliage of many of the Erodiums and their intense dislike of moisture about their crowns, it is advisable to place a piece of glass a few inches above them during our sodden winters, especially if the district is subject to fogs, which often bring down much dirt upon the plants. R. A. Malby. Richmond should be in every garden. It grows freely, if not very vigorously, and flowers as continuously as any Hybrid Tea, which is saying a good deal. Unfortunately, it is rather subject to mildew, and the second and succeeding crops of bloom are apt to be of poor quality unless the plants are well looked after in the matter of feeding. Like Mrs. W. J. Grant, this is a Rose that requires and deserves extra nourishment. General Mac- arthur, almost equally free-flowering, has a sturdier growth and better constitution, but the bloom is not nearly so shapely. Neither can be called an exhibition variety, though Richmond occa- sionally produces a flower good enough to show. Avoca IS splendid in colour, size and shape, and makes tremendous growth ; but, unfortunately, it blooms but once. Every exhibitor should have it. Laurent Carle shapes well, but docs not open freely enough, nor can jt be called free- flowering. G. C. Waud, Leslie Holland and Chateau de Clos Vougeot are all beautiful Roses, but cannot be recommended for towns. Griiss an Teplitz should be grown as a free bush and left practically unpruned. Under favourable conditions it is then good, both early and late. Only those with ample space should plant it. The Lyon Rose is one few gardeners would care to be without. It may not be all that a town Rose should be, but one can forgive its few faults for its numerous virtues. Betty is quite a good Rose to grow, as is also Earl of Warwick, which is especially good in autumn. These Roses of combined yellow and pink shades always commend themselves, particularly to ladies. Usually they are rather variable in colour, hot weather fading the yellow in them until it is hardly perceptible. Bettj' has few and long petals, while Earl of Warwick is full. Both can be exhibited. Phari- saer and Mme. Leon Pain are also rather alike in colour of the Chatenay type. Both are excellent town Roses, the last named being the better for the garden, of deeper colouring and more profuse in flower- ing, though Pharisaer produces rather larger blooms. Lady Ash- town, in many other respects ideal, is badly subject to mildew, but those who can cope with this should always grow it. Colour and shape are both exquisite. Princess Marie Mertchersky is a satisfactory Rose that always seems to come well, and Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt is also of perfect shape. Both are good, but not comparable with Mme. Leon Pain, tor instance, in point of freedom of flowering. Of light pinks, Augustine Guinois- seau is most satisfactory for bed- ding. Lady Ursula would be far more useful if it were not so reluctant to open its flowers, . those on the smaller shoots being prac- tically useless. Those who grow for (exhibition will lind it necessary to supple- ment the kinds named, or as many of them as they may choose, with a number that are less satis- factory in growth or do not flower freely. Bessie Brown, Dean Hole, Mildred Grant, Florence Pemberton, William Shean, Oberhofgartner Terks and Mrs. J. H. Welch are among those best suited for this purpose. Though they cannot be called town Roses, these will yield some magnificent blooms if tended carefully ; but many of them will show signs of going back, and it is necessary to replace such plants fre- quently. Many people like to have a few large bushes from which quantities of bloom may be gathered. The Bourbon Roses and their hybrids are excellent for this, the best being Zephyrin Drouhin, Mme. Isaac Pereire and Mrs. Paul. Rugosas, of which the best is Conrad F. Meyer, also do well in towns, but the blooms are not lasting. The last named is a strong and vigorous grower, that is well adapted for training over a high fence where a screen is needed. The principal Hybrid Perpetuals for town gardens will be discussed in the next article, which will appear in the issue dated January 31st. P. h- Goddard. January 17, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 35 IN A HAMPSHIRE GARDEN. SOME R A NOBLE BORDER PLANT. EREMURUS HIMALAICUS. FT and again the Eremuri have been recommended for grouping, and surely no greater tribute to their worth in that direction could be adduced than that afforded by the illustration accompanying these notes, which is from a photograph taken in Colonel H. Moore's garden at Higher Wood- combe, Minehead, Somerset. Of still greater HKbl o OF THE NEWER CLIMBING ROSES. ^EALLY good climbers are the scarcest of all Roses, and the hybridist has plenty of scope in this section. The really perpetual climbers are few and far between, and any new Roses that appear under this heading are apparently limited to climbing sports of the Hybrid Teas and Teas. They have the not inconsiderable drawback that every now and then they refuse to climb and revert back to the dwarf plants or parents. The wichuraianas provide us with most of our new climbers, and they are, for the most part, only seasonal flowerers, giving us a great show of blossom, it is true, but only for a few weeks of the year. Per- liaps it will be convenient to deal tirst of all with the new varieties of this section. Aviateur Bleriot (Fauque ct ImIs, igio). — This is an excellent colour in the bud and young flowers that are produced in small clusters ; but it is not, so far, with me a very strong grower, and would seem to be best fitted for a pillar or wall rather than for an arch or pergola. The foliage is pretty and persistent, hut the flowers are only medium size, of a good saffron yellow, with a fair number of ppfals. I think I prefer both Shower of Gold and Klondyke to this variety. Coronation {Turner, 1912). — This is a fine glowing colour, but the crimson-scarlet flowers are streaked or splashed with white ; a very vigorous habit of growth, and the large trusses of flowers are very effective as seen from a distance. This Rose improves on acquaintance. Ethel (Turner, 1912). — A scmi- d'Hible flower of flesh pink shade. Like Coronation, this can be described as a very vigorous grower. It did not flower very freely with me last year; but per- liaps it had hardly got established. Klondyke (Paul and Son, 1911). — Pale primrose yellow flowers ; but I shall be forgiven, perhaps, if I state that the beauty of the plint lies in the foliage. It is well worth growing for its foliage alone, and I can very strongly recommend it to all table decora- tors. I bad to place an embargo on it in my garden, or there would have been no 1 value, from the gardening point of SEEDLINGS OF EREMURUS HIMALAICUS, THREE YEARS AFTER PLANTING, IN A SOMERSET GARDEN. important gardening lesson of all, viz., that we. should raise seedlings of these things if our gardens are to afford us the picture groups these noble plants are capable of giving. Too often to-day, it is to be feared, the amateur ignores the seeds, the original clump continuing to yield but a tithe of the flower-beauty that might have been, had a few generations of seedlings been raised and planted from time to time. It is not that we require them everywhere in the garden, so that the eye meets them at every turn, but rather that theyshould play theirpart alone — albeit boldly and in proportion to their merits — in shrubbery or sheltering bay, on the confines of woodland or park, or, indeed, any place where there existed a foil capable of throwing into fullest relief their unique beauty. In arranging such groups an item of the utmost importance is that of shelter — shelter, not so much from the winter's intenser cold, as from the ill-effects of nipping frost or withering blast of spring. Hence protectioit from north and east becomes a sort of necessity be- cause of the early appearing of their somewhat tender leafage. In every other respect the plants are absolutely hardy ; their great crowns might even protrude from the soil and suffer no injury in times of severest frost, though we are prone to give them a protective covering at such a time. The presence of a suitable foil as a means of reflecting the fullest beauty of these plants has already been remarked upon, though of not less worth is the surrounding greenery to their leafless flower- stems. Occasionally one sees these Eremuri rather closely associated with dwarf shrubs about their bases, and the idea may easily be carried to excess, to the detriment of both. Radiating like the spokes of a cart wheel from a common centre and somewhat shallowly placed in the ground, interference with the shrubs may cause serious mutilation to the roots of these plants. For this same reason of superficial root spread I am of opinion that the ordinary herba- ceous border is not quite the place for these Eremuri, though one sees them not infrequently so placed as isolated specimens. Such plant- ings, however permissible a decade or two ago, should find no place in gardening with these plants to-day, when, with fuller knowledge of them, they are worthy of the best the garden or woodland affords. A these plants, in common with is the , peculiarity of fact that the group shown in the picture is still Asphodel, Anthericum and the like, is that they a youthful one, seeing that it was planted only form crown upon crown to such an extent as to three years or so ago, the plants at the time being presently lift themselves to the surface, strong- seedlings of comparatively small size. Hence growing subjects like the Eremuri, because of year's experience. There is no doubt, however, at ! the picture demonstrates not only the value their great crowns and thong-like roots, soon all about the beauty of the plant. I of grouping, but equally that of planting such revealing their positions by the uplifting of the soil Soutliampton. Herbert E. Molyneux. j things in the early stages of their existence. Then, alone. The only remedy for this state of things {To be coHlinued.) | from the suggestive standpoint comes the most ' is replanting, which shnuld be done in October. plant left. It has been described as an improved Gardenia, but with me, so far, shows no signs of that Rose's vigorous growth. But here again it is, perhaps, hardly fair to form an opinion on one 36 THE GARDEN. [January 17. 1014. From the foregoing remarks it will be noted probably that a greater superficial area of soil rather than a great depth is necessary for these plants, and the deduction would be fairly correct, though soil depth must not be ignored. In plant- ing the Eremuri it is well to remember that in flowering they afford a succession for some weeks, the white-flowered kind so well portrayed in the illustration being one of the earliest, and Shelford, Warei (bronzy orange) and Bungei (yellow) appear- ing at the other end of the chain. In any attempt to raise seedlings, the important fact should be remembered that seeds soon lose their vitality ; hence it would be prudent to sow the seeds a few weeks after maturing. It would be well, too, to make the sowing in a frame, and sufficiently thin that the seedlings may remain to their second year, always transplanting them in autumn when dormant. E. H. Jenkins. THE HERBACEOUS OR MIXED BORDER. HOW TO MAKE AND MAINTAIN IT. (Continued from page 19.) Propagation. — Many people are at sea regard- ing the propagation of hardy border flowers. The division of old plants and the raising of new stocks from seeds comprise the sum of their knowledge. Even such a simple operation as division has its variations. A spade, or two forks in the hands of the less clumsy, does not include all, for there are numbers of plants which give of their best only when divided carefully into very small portions. The better species of Aconitum should be annually divided into single crowns, the best selected and planted singly, according as they are wanted, in clumps, when 4 inches to 6 inches apart is a proper distance, or, if mi.xed with other plants, spaced to suit these. Senecio tanguticus, Helianthus D. Dewar and H. Miss Mellish should be treated in the same manner, allowing wider spaces, the first named at a foot apart being none too little. Similar treatment suits some of the fibrous-rooted section. Surely no plant is more ugly than the double Rudbeckia laciniata grown with many stems together and these tied to a stake, with the heads of its lovely golden flowers drooping as if ashamed of their plight. But plant these singly a few inches apart, and the need of support of any kind, as in the case of many other plants given a like treatment, is done away with, and its full beauty is displayed without any drawback. The varieties of Chrysanthemum maximum afford examples of subjects which may be planted singly — just slips with one growth and a few roots to start them with, or larger pieces with several growths. These grow tall, and need support of some kind to keep them from sprawling over the border. The first named, on the other hand, are comparatively dwarf, need no stakes, and produce a broad mass of bloom of equal height. Nine inches apart is as wide as they should be arranged. C. uliginosum is best treated in much the same way, only the pieces must be set much closer. Several Asters succeed best from single growths planted close together, the Novi-Belgii section more particularly, also puniceus and corymbosus ; but the varieties of viminalis, eri- coides, acris, Amellus and Linosyris should have a few growths each and be planted a little wider apart. Rudbeckia spsciosa should be annually transplanted, but not in single growths, only the divided pieces when planted must be touching each other to afford the best effect. Varieties of Anthemis tinctoria give much the best results when replanted annually, but, instead of rooted pieces, cuttings should be inserted in the autumn in a frame and transplanted in spring. These are quite as floriferous as old plants, but grow not nearly so tall, the one fault of the latter. Erigeron does best pulled into small pieces and planted close enough to meet when in flower ; E. mucronatus, either from cuttings or seeds. Nepeta Mussinii is always best from cuttings in autumn, and so is Pentstemon heterophyllus, as a rule. Phloxes should not be over-propagated. New varieties are easily increased from root cuttings, and older ones from stem cuttings ; but usually for decorative effect a plant with several stems, though the heads of bloom may be smaller, is to be preferred to the smaller ones. Raising Plants from Seeds.— Quite a number of useful plants can be raised from seeds. Such PROPAGATION OF HERBACEOUS PLANTS. A — Slip 0/ Solidago, Aster, itc, for -planting dose to form a mass. B — Root cutting of Verbena venosa. C — Root cutting of Phlox. D — Eye cutting of Hollyhock ; many herbaceous plants are increased in this way. EE — Roots of Aconitum ; plant 3 indies deep. The bars represent the soil level. are Delphiniums, Lupines and Agapanthuses, but the seedling Agapanthus must be grown on in pots till they have attained flowering size. Heucheras, Dictamnus Fraxinella, Centranthus ruber. Holly- hocks, Isatis glauca, Dianthus species, Papaver rupifragum, P. pilosum, Gladioli, Sea Hollies, Tritomas and Scabiosa caucasica constitute a selection. The double forms of Hesperis matro- nalis may be propagated either from pieces of the stems in summer or from the little root growths, which should be kept in a frame during the winter. These make the best plants. Lychnis, Holly- hocks and many other plants may also be increased from the stems, cut into short pieces. From pieces of the roots Verbena venosa, Romneya Coulteri, Anemone japonica, Anchusa, suffruticose Phloxes and Oriental Poppies are easy of increase. There is also a class of plants which, once established, may be left indefinitely without lifting and divid- ing. Examples of such are perennial Statices, Spir;ea Aruncus, herbaceous Pajonies, Tritomas, Helleborus niger varieties. Anemone japonica, A. angulosa, Dictamnus Fraxinella and Astilbe rivularis. Pinks, Sweet Williams and some of the Mule Pinks may be pulled to pieces in September and the stems inserted in the groimd, and all will make nice flowering plants the succeeding year. Some perennials flower the same year if raised early and started in heat. Such are Delphiniums, Lupinus polyphyllus in variety, Scabiosa caucasica. Cheiranthus, Pentstemons, Daisies, Chrysanthe- mums, Verbenas and Antirrhinum majus varieties. These and others similarly produced are very valuable for autumnal effects, and, in a word, many plants may be increased from seeds with the greatest advantage. A few biennials are especially valuable. Such are Campanula pyra- midalis, Gilia coronopifolia. Foxgloves (the white especially), Canterbury Bells, Sweet Williams, Hesperis matronalis (the single varieties). East Lothian Stocks in mauve, crimson, purple and white, Lychnis Agrostemma and Columbines. Some of these assume a perpetual character, but on the whole young plants are the more effective. Of Annuals the number that may be used is very large, some hardy, others tender. The greater part of the last named I raise on beds of soil in cold frames, the seeds being sown early in April and afterwards pricked out into beds in reserve, to be transplanted in autumn to fill vacancies caused by the earlier plants which have done blooming. The best of these are African Marigolds, the doubles being separated from the singles when in flower and arranged in masses of a colour. Few autunmal flowers are more gloriously beautiful than these. The dwarf forms are usually planted in June where they are to flower, as also are French Marigolds, of ! which the deep browns, both dwarf and tall, are very effective. China Asters are treated in much the same manner, some being kept in reserve, I others planted at once. Dobbie's Quilled and Ostrich Plume are the two sections I prefer. The old, tall Ageratum mexicanum gives good results if raised in heat annually. Other good annuals are Lobel's Catchfly, Statice sinuata (white and mauve especially) and S. Suworowii (finer than S. spicata). The tall form of Alonsoa Warscewiczii is very brilliant. Love-lies-bleeding and Prince's Feather should be sown either under glass or late in the open. The crimson-leaved form of Atriplcx hortensis is in- dispensable, as also is Kochia tricophylla. To these should be added Stock-flowered and Em- peror Larkspurs, which are so^vn in boxes and ger- minated in heat to secure an early start, the seed- lings being dibbled into their places when quite small or before the tap- roots have been formed ; Lavatera rosea and Clarkia elegans (double) in various colours; Brachycome iberidifolia, of which white is the best ; common Marigolds, Anagallis grandiflora, several Chr>-san- themums, Convolvulus tricolor, Dianthus Salmon Queen, Godetia Schaminnii flore pleno, Matricaria Golden Ball, Nemesia in great variety, Nigella Miss Jekyll, Saponaria calabrica. Scabious, Tropasolum aduncum, Xeranthemum annuum and Virginian Stock. This is not an exhaustive list, but all those named possess much merit as border plants. Prestonkirk. N.B. R. P. Brotherston. {To he continued.) LARKSPUR SEEDLING, SHOWING STAGE OF GROWTH TO PLANT. January 17, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 37 THE TRAINING OF WALL FRUIT TREES. trees against walls, the base of the trees should be brought about lo inches forward away from the wall. CORDON iruit trees become increasingly popular each year, and the reason is not far to seek, for such trees are easily managed, while space is economised to the greatest extent. The early training of the trees is usually carried out in the nursery, and when the cordons leave the nursery they should not only possess main stems as straight as gun-rods, but also be furnished almost to the ground- level with fruiting spurs. If good trees are pro- cured from the nursery ta the first place, it then requires only common-sense methods to retain those trees well trained in one's own garden. Speaking generally, cordons should be planted obliquely. The reason for planting them on the slope is that a greater extension can be given to the leaders, which should not be carried above the top of the wall. Vertical cordons should only be placed against high walls or pillars, and even then over-vigorous varieties should not be planted. \ point worth noting in planting cordons is that the more pronounced the inchne, the further apart should the trees be placed. Double cordons or U-shaped trees are sometimes preferred, and occasionally one sees a wall planted with triple cordons ; but for all practical purposes the single cordon gives the best result. Horizontal cor- dons, with low branches about one foot from the soil and framed parallel to the ground, are favoured for forming edgings to borders. Growth, however, is so restricted that trees trained in this maimer rarely live for very many years. Slow- growing Apples on Paradise stock are best suited for horizontal cordons. The horizontal trained tree, with branches arranged tier upon tier, is one of the best forms of trained trees for planting against walls. ShouH the branches on one side of the tree grow at the expense of those on the opposite side, the vigorous branches should be tied down temporarily. This will weaken them, while the weak branches may be strengthened by being raised. Much may also be said in favour of the fan-framed tree, particularly with such fruits as Morello Cherries, Peaches, Nectarines and Apricots. The illustration on this page depicts a fan-shaped Pear which, it should be noted, is splendidly furnished with fruiting spurs. The Pear, however, is one of the easiest trees to train, and will do equally well as a cordon, either single or double or horizontally trained. Another type of wall tree worthy of note is the trained standard fan. Obviously it is only suited to very high walls or buildings. On the Continent it is regarded as a lucrative way of covering the upper part of one's house. Apples, Pears and Plums. — in pruning trained trees the object should be to make every branch a cordon, with fruit spurs along the entire length of the branch. " Once a fruit spur always a fruit spur " is an old saying among fruit-growers. In order to secure fruiting spurs it is necessary to prune hard the second season after planting, and the following season the resultant vigorous growth should be shortened to about one-third its length. Summer pruning is important. It is accomplished by pruning or pinching back lateral growths to the extent of about 4 inches in July. This should be annually followed by winter pruning, when the side growths are cut back to two or three eyes. The fruiting spurs should, of course. never be pruned. With horizontal trained trees the leader should be cut back to within a foot of the top horizontal tier, and with cordons it may be shortened in proportion. Peaches and Nectarines. — Unlike the Apple and Pear, these trees fruit upon the young wood, and not on fruiting spurs. The main shoots should be shortened about one foot in winter, and overcrowded growths thinned to the base. The young or fruiting wood should be retained and laid in on the upper side of the leaders only. This will ensure uniformity in fan-shaped trees and avoid the crossing of branches. Gooseberries and Red Currants. — These fruits give capital results if trained as cordons. The terminal or leader should not be shortened except to keep the cordons within bounds. All side growths should be pinched back to three eyes in the summer. Aspects for Fruit Trees. — Pears, Plums, cordon .Apples and dessert Cherries mav be given WHY SEEDS SOMETIMES FAIL. Of course, bad seeds will not germinate under any treatment. Sometimes, however, good ones fail to do so, even when every convenience exists for their proper treatment. There are several causes for failure, namely, sowing too deeply, not deep enough, a too wet soil, and also a too dry one. Now, to be successful, the reader will at once think that the happy medium must be secured in each case. If it is, there will not be many failures ; but with a certain amount of moisture we must also have heat. If seeds are sown in a very cold soil at this season, many may perish in it, especially if the soil be very wet. Seeds of the more tender kinds of plants require a warmer temperature than those of hardier kinds. Example : Cucumber seeds would decav A WELL-TRAINED FAN-SHAPED PEAR TREE. NOTE THAT EACH ROD IS FURNISHED WITH FRUIT SPURS. either easterly, westerly or intermediate positions. Morello Cherries and certain Pears do well from north to east, and the same aspect may be given to Gooseberries and Red and White Currants. Apricots, Figs, Nectarines and Peaches should be given a westerly to southerly position. Planting. — The work of planting is best carried out in the autumn, but it may be successfully accomplished at any time when growth is dormant, providing, of course, that the weather is open and that the soil may be readily worked. It is a common mistake to over-manure the soil at the time of planting. Providing that the soil has been previously worked, very little, if any, manure need be applied, and even then only well- rotted manure should be incorporated with the soil. In cases where the soil is deficient in lime, the addition of a little lime rubble around the roots of each tree will prove highly beneficial ; in fact, the value of lime rubble for fruit trees generally cannot be overrated. When planting trained in the soil if given similar conditions to those of Broad Beans, but the latter would germinate quickly if treated the same as Cucumber seeds. In very hot weather — in summer-time — it is abso- lutely necessary to give seeds a moistSr soil than in January, February and March. Dust- like seeds — those of Begonias, for example — should be sown on a moist surface where coarse sand is plentiful. Celery seeds should have a quarter of an inch of tine soil evenly scattered on them ; Cucumber seeds require nearly an inch of soil ; Peas rather more ; Broad Beans quite 2 inches ; and so on. The soil must be main- tained in an even state of moisture. Many culti- vators cover the seed-vessels with glass and paper. If the covering is removed in good time, the young seedlings will not be damaged ; but if left on too long — even a day in some cases — the seedlings are much weakened and often die after- wards. Never sow thickly, as crowded seedlings are always weakly. Shamrock. 38 THE GARDEN. [JanuarV 17, 1914. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. Peach Trees in late houses should be prepared tor forcing with as little delay as possible. In pruning the trees all gross shoots that can be spared should be cut away, leaving the medium wood with a space of at ieast 4 inches between the shoots when tied, for it must be remembered that at least one young shoot will have to be tied into each space before the season is very far advanced. If the trees are infested with any insects, they must be carefully washed with a solution of some approved insecticide. The borders should be examined, and if the roots are near the surface, a sprinkling of bone-meal may be applie"d previous to a top-dressing of loam and old lime rubble. If the border is dry, water should be given in sufficient quantity to reach the extremities of the roots, Late Vines. — Anv Grapes that remain on the Vines should be cut^ and placed in the fruit-room, where they inay be kept in good condition for several weeks. The ventilators should then be opened and the Vines pruned as soon as possible. Remove all loose bark without breaking the inner bark, and if mealy bug is present on the Vines, they should be carefully washed with Gishurst Compound and warm water. At the same time the interior of the vinery must be thoroughly cleaned. If any additions to the borders are contemplated, these should be made at once. It is better practice to make small additions to the border each season than to place a large quantity of soil in the house at one time, as this may become sour, and consequenlly the crop will be unsatisfactory. Plants Under Glass. Roses in pots should be pruned now and placed in a temperature of 45". The crocks should be examined so that the water may pass freely from the pots, and, if necessary, a top-dressing of rich loam and lime rubble should be applied. If a constant supplv of blooms is necessary, a few fresh plants should be introduced to heat every ten days. Good drainage and careful ventilation are of the greatest importance. Cannas. — Old roots of Cnnnas may be shaken out and repotted in a compost of rich loam and thorouglily decayed cow-manure. They may be started into growth in a temperature of 60°. Seeds may be sown now in small pots for flowering the following season. These seeds are slow to germinate, and may be soaked in water with a temperature of go" for twelve hours previous to sowing. The Conservatory. — Various flowering shrubs should be in readiness now to take the place of Chrysanthemums. Many of these are easily forced, and may be had in quantity, providing a reserve plot is available to grow and prepare them during the summer. The Flower Garden. Taking Cuttings for Summer Bedding.— Such plants as Heliotrope, Verbena, Ageratum, Coleus, Lobelia, &c., may be increased to what is necessary bv taking cuttings now, providing a hot-bed is available for the purpose. East Lothian Stocks.— Now is the time to sow seeds of these lovely Stocks in order to have a displav of flower in the early summer. These are frequently sown in March, when the plants do not flower till September. Cover the seeds lightly, place them in a temperature of 60°, and pot up the seedlings as soon as large enough to handle. By this means good, strong plants should be ready to' put out in .\pril. The Hardy Fruit Garden. The Pruning of Peach Trees.— Much of the work in this department will depend on the weather. While fine, the piuning of Peach trees should be persevered with, and while this work proceeds the whole of the branches should be detached from the wall and the old shreds burned, as they may contain the eggs of some troublesome insect. As the shoots are being replaced on the wall, a space of several inches should be allowed between them in order to admit of the laying in of next season's growth. Raspberry Shoots may be thinned and tied to the wires at any time, providing the ground is not too wet. This is a surface-rooting plant, and requires a rich, open soil to grow it to per- fection. If the soil is of an open nature, a top- dressing of manure may be applied as soon as tying is finished. If the ground is heavy, the top-dressing may be deferred till March, but the surface may be lightly broken up and exposed to the weathei . The Kitchen Garden. Lettuce in cold flits should be freely ventilated when external conditions will permit. Stir the soil among the plants and remove all decaying foliage. Dampness is the worst enemy to all salad plants in winter. A sowing of Lettuce seed may be made in boxes, and the young plants pricked into a cold pit as soon as large enough to handle. Early Broccoli in the open garden should be carefullv protected from frost. As soon as the heads appear, the plants may be lifted with a good quantity of soil and placed in any cool structure with plenty of light. French Beans. — A sowing of these may be made now in 7-inch pots and placed in a temperature of 60°. Pods should be ready to gather within seven weeks from the time of sowing. Mustard and Cress should be sown weekly and placed in any forcing house or pit with a temperature of 50**. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Wood-Ashes. — Collect and bum all prunings and other garden rubbish and store in a dry shed ; in fact, there should be little or nothing to 1 cart away from any garden. Hedge-trimmings collected and burnt make an excellent top-dressing ; indeed, one should always be on the look-out for all burnt refuse, as this is invaluable in preparing ground for Onions and Carrots. Pea-Sticks. — In wet and frosty weather Pea- sticks should be gone over, sharpened and graded in different sizes. By no means destroy small branches of these, as they are very useful for supporting the smaller-growing herbaceous plants, besides being less unsightly than the ordinary garden stakes. Early Carrots and Turnips.— Where early Carrots and Turnips are in demand, now is the time to make up hot-beds. For this purpose the best material is leaves and stable litter, about two loads of the former to one of the latter. When the bed has had time to settle, a small sowing may be made of Carrots, Turnips and Radishes. These are greatly appreciated even in a very young state. Parsley. — As Parsley takes some little time to germinate, a sowing may be made now, so as to be ready for planting out about the end of March. Early Potatoes. — A few early Potatoes may now be planted in slightly heated pits. I find Sutton's May Queen an excellent variety for this early work. Great care will be necessary to protect the young growths from late frosts, but at the same time avoid coddling. Globe Artichokes.— These require to be care- fully protected during this month, particularly against damp. I find the best material for this is engine ashes, not too new. Mound them up well round the crowns, and the possibilities are no other protection will be required. The Flower Garden. Alterations. — The weather during the late autumn and early winter was the mildest experi- enced for very many years, and, in consequence, those who had alterations to make on lawns or grass paths had an exceptional opportunity of forwarding that work. Should any, through stress of other duties, still have some turfing to do, no time should be lost in completing it. The present is a good time to attend to defective drains and all work that requires serious disturbance of the paths and lawn. Rhododendrons that do not seem to be par- ticularly happy in thfir surroundings will, in many instances, be greatly benefited by a good mulching of farmyard manure. Many recommend spent Hops and leaf-mould, which are doubtless good in their wav ; still, I have not seen anything to equal the manure. When the variety Pink Pearl was introduced, I planted a number in a cold district in the Xorth. For a time they seemed only to exist, and, alarmed at the price paid and the consequences of failure, I sought the advice of an experienced grower. His advice was, "Try farmyard manure," which I did, and the result was beyond my utmost expectations. Helleborus. — Where Christmas Roses are grown in quantity, a number of clumps should be pro- tected by hand-lights, which will not only improve the flowers, but will draw out the stalks and make them more useful for decorative purposes. .-V few roots may be lifted, placed in cutting-boxes, and brought on in the propagating-pit. Carnations. — During severe weather border Carnations should be protected against rabbits and voles, which are very destructive to Carna- tions. Even in walled gardens it is surprising how the pests find their way in. In most cases care- lessness in leaving doors and gates open is responsible for their presence. To protect Carnations against such foes, a remedy I have found most effectual is to saturate string with Renardine and stretch it along the outside of the border about six inches from the groimd. Support th • string with small stakes, and paint it over from time to time with this mixture. Hardy Fruit. Gooseberry and Currant Cuttings. — Where it is intended to increase the stock of Goosebeines and Currants, suitable cuttings should be selected from the primings. These should be straight and of a fair thickness. When the weather is such as to prevent work being done out of doors, these cuttings may be made, correctly named, tied into small bundles, and heeled in mitil they may be planted. Protecting Fruit Trees. — Plantations of Apples and Pears (indeed, of all hardy fruit trees) should be guarded against rabbits and hares, especially in frosty weather. Quite recently I saw great destruction done during a storm, wall trees being barked up to 2 feet from the ground. The Renar- dine recommended for border Carnations will keep them at bay. In the case of fruit trees, string will not lie necessary. I simply smear the foot of the stem with the mixture. Fruits Under Glass. Strawberries. — Eany forced Strawberries will now be m flower. Go over them carefully with a rabbit's tail to ensure a good set. The atmosphere- may be kept somewhat dry, but a'l possible means should be taken to keep down red spider, which soon makes its appearance on early forced plants. Vineries. — Vines that were started about the New Year will be beginning to move, and the greatest precautions will have to be taken in admitting air at this stage. The sim may be shining brightly during the middle of the day, and yet the air outside be extremely cold. An increase of 5° in the temperature may be allowed. In starting Muscats I believe it is an excellent plan to top-dress the inside border with a little hot-bed material ; this encourages the roots to start and has a tendency to keep them near the surface. Melons. — Where Melons are required in May, a small batch should be sown now. Unless in very favoured districts, the early lot of Melons will cause a good deal of worry before they reach the ripening stage, chiefly through the lack of sim- shine. They succeed best in a good, heavy loam mi.xed with a little lime rubble. Where one has any doubt of the suitability of the soil for this or other crops, he should have it analysed, which will prevent many failures. Cucumbers. — If a sowing of Cucumbers has not been made, no time should be lost in making a start, as a few early Cucumbers arc almost indispensable for the beginning of the ialmon season. John Highgate. (Head-gardener to the .Marquis of Linlithgow.) Hopelouii Gantcni,, iouih Qiicemictty, N.B. January 17, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 39 RENOVATING OLD GRAPE VINES. A GOOD many gardeners seem to think /\ that when once Vines begin to show / % a falling off in the size of bunch or / % berry, the only thing to do is to root A M. them out, make a new border, and replant with young rods. This I consider an entirely wrong course to pursue, unless, indeed, the Vines are very far gone. From a fairly long experience I have learned that even quite aged Vines can be brought back to a state ilar paving. The ruling is done mth the point of a trowel and straight-edge. Brick paths are less expensive than paving, and if the joints are of earth, and fine grass allowed to grow, are really picturesque, especiallv when in conjunction with brick buildings. Grey granite chippings make an excellent path providing a good foundation is made before titey are put down. They can be kept rolled or raked, according to taste, and the cool grey is a desirable colour in the garden. PLANTS FOR CLAY SOILS (£. P.).— Tlie most elfectual, and possibly also tlie cheapest way of improiing such soils is winter trcncliing — throwing the soil high into rou"h ridges — and incorporating lime in considerable quantities at a depth of 18 inches as the work proceeds. The ridging exposes a greater superficial area to the action of fresh air and tends to drain the soil, while the lime, by coagulatmg the particles of the soil, precipitates the water to a lower level, thereby warming, aerating and draining it as bv a single action. Unless you are prepared to improve the "soil in some such way as this, we are afraid vou will have to be content with a modified success. Vou would also find spring planting of assistance in the ease of the doubtful ones. The best herbaceous perennials for lieavy soils are Pajouies, Flag Irises, Michaelmas Daisies, ICniphofias, Trollius, Spiraia, Helcniums, Helianthns (Sunflower). Astilbe Davidu, Anchusa, Phlox (herbaceous kinds) tall-growing .\chilleas. Campanulas, such as van Houtte, all the persicifolia varieties, latifolia, lacti- liora and carpatica in variety ; Aster Amellus, Del- pliimums Lupinus ])olvi)hvllus, L. albus, Galegas, Japanese \iicmoucs in vaiU-tv, Oriental Poppies, Hemerocallis or biv I.ilv Uouhic Wliiti- Itockil (Irlesperis matronalis Hoi-e ple'n'o) Hollyhocks, Ciniicifiiga, Seduni spectabile (in opposition to the general belief), Potentillas, Lychnis chaleedonica, Solomon's Seal, Megasea cordifolia pur- purea, Lenten Roses, Pinks and .\ubrietias. Sucli Lilies as Liiium umboUatum, pyrenaicum, croceum, Martagon and chalcedonicum are usually a success. Pentstciuons would do if planted annually in spring, and, while alfording "oo(l colour, assist bv their conipar.ative dwartness. packed iM damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering TREES AND SHRUBS. -The best selling and shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters on business should be sent to the Pdblisher. FLOWER GARDEN. SWEET WILLIAM RUST (,S. IF. H.).-Puccinia dianthi thL^wtt WiUiam rust, is attacking your plants \ou ire u,ite ri.'lit in taking and burning the diseased ones and « 'rai 3 be well to'spray the others with a rose red Solution of potassium permanganate as a means of check- iu" the spread of the disease. VIOLETS FOR MARKET (.E. G. IF) Violets are de Parme, La France, Prmcess of Wale: weUsiaua the first named having double flowers. La Fran™ and Pruieess of Wales are large-flowered long- stemmed varieties, wellsiana bemg smaller, shorter- steSmed and more free. The correct method ot increase L bv unflowered cuttings, making a beginning in early autumn "?th the runners, usually plentitu at framing- thiie Bv insertmg these in sandy soil m shallow boxes, excellent plants for putting out in April would result Anv runner growths produced during the winter would al?o be serviceable as cuttings. Divided plants from ttock plants that have flowered for months are valueless bv commrison, though they are useful occasionally for prodSg cuttings when they have fully recovered i»lIIIUM AURATUM (//.).— Your success with this Smlwha" (astrdfous plant' is -ost eneouragmg and instances of it becoming permanently established arc l„„n means t common. In these circumstances it is SLirableTo y ?he best possible for it and as^you have fo move it we suggest the work be performed now. You Lad better replaSt it outside, giving it conditions as nearly Wentical as possible to those in which it has been ?,^^Lt a success! The bulbs will now have many basal o? Safn roots i.«. those below the bulb, and these, being f ^t.^ ininortance should be preserved intact, and in the replaXg spreid out thmly-not doubled up in a massbSw tl'e fulbs. The stem root^ those on the oW fw^rinp stem having completed their life s work anu flowermg stem, "''=,'' ^f annual duration only, Sle removed eloJe to the bulbs, in which position a FST^he-ixn'e!;? "^wfsr i\°^'ght"r: rs extent— in the flrst year, though tl ■ be mteUigently done, shmilil 11 Their best for making into TO GET RID OF ELDER TREES (Jimiiw).— Give tlie roots of the trees a good soaking with weed-killer of double the usual strength. This will kill them. EUGENIA BERRIES (.S. S.).— The fruits of Eugenia U"ui are used for culinarv purposes in their native country. Tl'ie plant is referred to as follows in the " Treasury 01 Botany " • " Its fruit is highly esteemed in Chile. Those .Trown in this country are glossy black whenripe, and have an agreeable flavour and perfume. use in thia country would probably be for jelly. EVERGRBEN SHRUBS FOR HEDGE (New Reuder). The common Holly is the best evergreen you can procure for the position mentioned. Another suitable shrub is Berberis stenophylla. This is a free-flowering ever- green but it is inclined to grow rather wildly and requires more 'attention to keep it in good condition than the Holly. If you select Holly, you had better not plant the hedge before April. TO PRUNE WEIGELAS {Burton). — The young \Vei"elas ought to have been pruned rather severely during the £-st two years of their life. Much pruning would have prevented them from becoming straggly. \s it is you had better wait until after they have flowered in May,' and then cut them fairly hard back. If you do not mind losing the flowers, the pruning may be done in February or March. This would give a longer growing season. WISTARIA CHINENSIS AND ITS SYNONYMS (C S S J ) —The plant to which you direct attention is named correctly. Wistaria chinensis, hut, as is the case with ni'any other plants, diSerent botamsti their bases those branches which cannot conveniently be laid in. Were you to adopt a general pruning now, the plant may be deterred from flowering till well into the summer of next year, even supposing the pruning did not miUtate against It passing the winter in safety. If you could send us a flowering spray or two, we might be able to name it for you and, with a fuller knowledge of the plant, assist you "in more definite form. FLOWERING AND FOLIAGE SHRUBS (T. H. H.). - The following are twelve of the most useful flowering shrubs : Ribessauguineumatrorubens, Forsythia suspensa. Spiraea 'arguta, Berberis stenophylla, Syringa persica. Diervilla .\bel CarriSre, Philadelphus Lemoinei crectus, P. coronarius, Cydonia Maulei superba. Viburnum tomen- tosum plieatum, Crtisus praecox and Escallonia langleyensis. . Good coloured foliage shrubs are found in Cornus alba Spiethii, C. a. variegata, Sambucus racemosa plumosa aurea, Corylus maxima atropurpurea, Japanese Jlaples in variety," Acer Negundo variegata, A. N. californica aurea. Euonymus japonicus, golden and silver varieties ; Hollies Golden Queen and Silver Queen, Prunus ccrasitera atropurpurea, and gold and silver variegated Tree Ivies. SHRUBS FOR A NEW GARDEN (Westmorland).— The following shrubs are likely to prove satisfactory if planted in your uorth border : Berberis stenophylla, evergreen, 5 fe'et to H feet, flowers yellow, April ; Ribe> sanguineum, 4 feet to 5 feet, red, .\pril ; Berberis Aqui- folium, 2 feet to 3 feet, evergreen, yellow, .March ; Forsythia intermedia spectabilis, 4 feet, yellow, .\prU ; • Cornus alba Spsethl, golden-variegated foliage, 4 feet ; C. a. variegata, 4 feet , silver-variegated foliage ; Tree Ivies in variety ; and Hollies in variety. For the south border the foU'owing selection is suitable : Spirsea arguta, 4 feet to 5 feet, white, April; S. japonica Anthony Waterer, 2 feet, red, July and .\ugust ; Diervilla .\bi:l CarriSre, 5 feet to 6 feet, rose, May ; D. Eva Kathki , 3 feet to 4 feet, carmine, Jime and July ; C^■tisus prsecox, 4 feet to a feet, cream, -May ; C. scoparius variety andreanns, 4 feet to 5 feet, yellow and brown. May ; Forsythia suspensa, 4 feet to 10 feet, yellow. April ; Daphm- Mezereum, 2 feet to 3 feet, red, February ; Berberis barwinli, 4 feet to 8 feet, evergreen, orange, April; Lilacs in variety ; Philadelphus Lemoinei erecfns, 3 feet, white, June ; Viburnum lantana and V. tomentosuni plieatum, white, 4 feet to 5 feet, June ; also any of th.' subjects recommended for the other border. The following Roses will be likely to thrive with you : Hybrid Per- petuals — Ben Cant, Captain Hayward, Charles Lefebvri', iJupuy Jamain, Frau Karl Drusehki, General Jacqueminot, Hugh Dickson, iMrs. John Laing, Senateur Vaisse, .Margaret Dickson and lllrich Brunuer. Hybrid Teas— \rthur R. Goodwin, Captain Christy. Caroline Testout. General Jlacartliur. His Majesty. J. B. Clark. John Huskhi. Kalserln \ugusta Victoria, La France, La Tosca, Lad> Battersea, Liberty. Mine. A. Chatenay. Mme. Jenny Oillemot, Mme. P'ernet-Ducher. Mme. Ravary, .Marquis.' Litta, ,>hs. P. H. Coats, Queen of Spain. Richmond and Wliiti' Killaruey. < have at various ol be cheek, halt ^^ if the work gri'itt as if times placed it in other genera, and it has at one time or another been known both as Glycine sinensis and Mllletia chinensis, names which are still occasionally used. As mentioned above, the correct name is Wistaria ehinensis, and as such it is generally known. FLOWERING EVERGREENS FOR SMALL GARDENS (itort)— The following shrubs are likely to suit your purpose : Laurusthius (Viburnum Tinus), white, lyinter and early spring; Berberis Darwinil, orange, April; B stenophylla, orange, April; Chmsya ternata, white. May; Escallonia langleyensis, pink, June to August, sub-evergreen; Cotoneaster microphylla, white, May ; Rhododendrons in variety. Ericas in variety and Pcr- nettya mueronata. If the soil does not contain much lime, Hypericum calyciuum, yellow, summer; and Berberis .\quifolium, yellow, JIarch. CORONILLA (Miss E. A. M. D.).— We are not sure to what plant you refer by Coronilla Genista. In any case the plant should not be pruned now to any extent. Should the wall space permit, the better way would be to train thr i.lant out fan shape agahist the wall, and thin out at FRUIT GARDEN. PEARS DOYENNE DU COMICE AND CALABASH, TO PLANT ALTERNATELY (Ju)UiW).— That will do very well Doyenne du Comice is not the freest of setters, but it is seif-fert"ilising, all the same. It will help it to set better if when in bloom, you will inoculate its stigma (centre column of flower) with the pollen of some other sorl in bloom at the same time, STONES SPLITTING IN PEACHES (SiUinqiouriu).— Some \arieties of Peaches aud Xectarmes, also Apricots, have split stones more than others. The varieties Peach Earlv Rivers and Nectarine Victoria are very liable to liave split stones. Splitting of stones is always more prevalent when the roots of the trees are grow'ing in a cold soil and when the soil is lacking in Imie. The position should be a warm one, no check must !»■ given to growth, and during the period wiieii the stones are " hardening " in the fruits the soil must not be alloweil to get very dry. II it does, and then gets saturated suddenly through heavy rains or watering by means of a watering-can, stone-splittmg is worse than usual. THE GREENHOUSE. GLOXINIAS IN THE GREENHOUSE (Seol similar growth aiid habit, but the flowers are much fuller and have more colour in them. The buds are deep yellow and the open flowers pale yollow, of the size of a florin. I think both these Roses of Mr. Peraberton's raising can be strongly recommended. We want perpetual - flowering Roses very badly. Pink Pearl (Hobbies, 1912). — This has Irish Elegance for one of its parents, and it has retained some of the beauty of its parent. It is not quite single, but makes a very effective pillar when fully oui. Sheilagh Wilson, Hybrid Tea (Paul and Son, 1912). — This is a very lovely single ; a semi-climber that flowers again in the autumn ; but so far with mi: is neither very vigorous nor very free-flowering. But the plants are young yet, and may improve in both aspects. The award was luiauimous. The accompanying illustration \vill give some idea of the erect character of the stems and the graceful poise of the flowers. From the St. George's Nursery Com- panv. Harlington. Middlesex. NEW ORCHIDS. Cypripedium Julian. — A flower of remarkably good form, with a broad, overarching dorsal. Parentage : Vandyke x -'Edippc. The general colour is greenish brown, the dorsal being white suffused with rosy pink. Shown by Lieutenant- Colonel Sir George Holford, K,C.V.O. First-class certificate. Awards ot merit were given to the following ; Odontoglnssum illustrissimum The Dell Variety, sent by Baron Bruno Schroder ; Odontioda Royal I Gem Westonbirt Varietv, frnni Lientenant-Colr-ine] THE PERENNIAL STOCKS. T NEW CYCLAMEN MRS. L. M. GREAVES. THIS OBTAINED AN AWARD OF MERIT LAST WEEK Thelma (W. Spooncr, tgra). — A very effective and bright colour, with delightful single flowers. The plant is vigorous and the flowers are large for a single. A Rose of much promise. Southamplon . Hekhfrt 1', Molvneux. Sir George Holford ; Odontoglossum Canary and Cymbidium Schlegeleri pimctatuni. from Pantia Ralli. Esq ; and Cvmbidium (•oningsb^^■^nunl, shown bv Mr. G Hamilton Smith NEW AND RARE PLANTS. Cyclamen Mrs. L. M. Greaves. — Dcpartmg Ironi its usual custom, the floral committee gave this distinct and good sort an award of merit as a named \ariety, thus stamping it as one of unusual excellence. The colour is rich and deep — cerise, with a suffusion of salmon — and unlike anything before known in the Cyclamen. The foliage is slightly marbled. All the plants shown were true to their kind, thus demonstrating that the variety tomes prartirall\- true fi-oni seeds. NEW FRUIT. Citrus japonica. — Tlie value ol this species is ornamental rather than useful. The fruits, which are about the size 01 Waluuls, are lemon colour and almost spherical. Se\'eral plants about two feet high, tarrying hea\'y crops, were shown, and were evidence uf I heii usefulness for decorative purposes When quite ripe the fruits are pleasant to the palate. Exhibited by Messrs. James Veitch and .Sons, Limited. .\ward of merit. The foregoing plants were granted .iwards [ly the Roval Horticultural Society on Jauuarv i j. HE Matthiolas are interesting plants which belong to the Mediterranean regions ; there are three or four dozen different kinds, half of them being annual or biennial. Of the perennial ones, the following are growm in alpine gardens : Matthiola fenestralis, growing wild on the sea rocks of the island Cretica, and nowhere else. It seems to be a dwarf form of M. incana (one of the ancestors of the common Stock), \rith thick, undulate and spirally rolled lea%es, deep carmine petals and very thick siliqua. In Cretica the people grow this plant in pots in their windows ; hence its name fenestralis. It is half-hardy with us (at Floraire we jiave to cover it through the winter), and wants a dry place in the full sun. M. sinuata, well known by even,-- body who ever saw the Mediterranean coasts, and generally considered as ] a biennial, although it, in certain conditions, proves to be quite peren- nial. The plant, Mediterranean by its origin, grows wild at the ocean coast, and goes so far as England. It is a sweet-scented plant, the flowers ot it being light lilac and ex- pending a delicious fragrance, but ' inly in the evening and in the night. M. Aristis is a curious plant, rather rarely found, growing wild here .uid there in the South of France, in Spain and Portugal, in SicUia, in Greece and in North Africa. I found it once in my life in the very beau- tiful Gorges du Verdon ui the Var. I ,. grows there in the white and barren sandy loam at very sunny places, and is the only plant growing in it. Very ca;spitose, of stoloni ferous nature, with dark green, somewhat greyish, dentate leaves ; flowers in large spikes, dull purple, and without any smell, so far as I know. At Floraire we grow it on the top of our wall, and it nourishes there and gives good seeds. M. varia is near to it and is a child ol Greece, where it grows near the sea- roasts. It is a stoloniferous kind, too and has l.irgc light, purple flowers. M. valesiaca and M. pedemont- ana arc near to it, but very different in their requirements ; they are really wall plants, and the most stoloniferous of all. The first is the rare plant of the Simplon Road in Valais ; it is found still in the very near valley of Binn, and. further to the East, near the Lago d'Garda, where I was very surprised last July to find my country plant, which I thought was a true Swiss child, growing between the rocks of Tremonie and near Riva. Tlie pl.ant is a delightful one, very creeping, its long and slender rootstock bearing its new rosettes everywhere. Sometimes M. valesiaca covers an area of several metres in a rockery. It is a plant for the morame, in the true sense of the word, or for the wall garden. The foliage of M. %alesiaca is silvery grey, and the flowers of a reddish purple, -M. pedemoutana differs from it by its slenderer- growth, its leaves narrower and thinner, and its flowers greenish broHii, of a very rare and curious colour. It needs the s.inie ■ iilture as M. v.alcsiaca. Floraire, Gtiievu. H. Cokkkvos'. January 24, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 49 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. HOW TO GROW EARLY TOMATOES. WHERE there are suitable struc- tures and plenty of artificial heat, very little difficulty need be experienced in the growing of very fine crops of Tomatoes. This condition (Obtains, of course, wliere experienced cultivators are concerned. Ill nrdinarv (ircumstances the f^eneral cultivator RAISING TOMATOES FROM SEEDS, AND SHOWING HOW TO POT THEM OFF. can secure a medium crop. We, however, wish the begiuuer to succeed in growing a big crop. Usually, early in the season there is considerable loss through failing to get the first-formed trusses of fruits to set. It is quite time now to make a begin- ning by sowing seeds and preparing generally for the due potting or boxing of the resultant plants. The Best Soil. — Some inexperienced culti- vators believe that the wisest course to follow is to grow the plants in a poor soil. Now, if we were intending to grow them in a deep border in the open air, or even under glass, we would prefer a poor rooting medium to a rich one ; but as the bulk of soil is comparatively small, confined as it will be in flower-pots or narrow, shallow boxes, it ought to be of very good quality. To tliis end prepare some very fibrous loam by pulling it in pieces, and some half-decayed leaf- soil passed through an inch mesh sieve. Stack this compost in a cool shed, or, if in the open, cover the heap to keep off rain until required for use. The compost for the seeds should be of a similar quality, but much finer. Use pots or pans in which to sow the seeds. Always remember that Tomatoes thri\'e best in a very warm, sunnv position. If suili be availaljle now, raise the seedlings in it. How to Raise the Seedlings. — Fill pots or pans as shown in Fig. .\ at No. i, which denotes drainage and coarse material such as leaves and rough, turfy compost ; No. 2, a layer of finer compost ; and No. 3, the seeds lightly covered. As stated above, place the seed-pots on a stage in a warm position and keep the soil in a moist state, btit never very wet, else the seeds will decay and not germinate. Ail necessary moisture should be afforded by holding the pot in a vessel of tepid water imtil the surface of the soil becomes dark ; then gently lift the pot. Probably only one water- ing will be needed, as the seeds germinate in a few days where there is enough heat and moisture. A sheet of glass may be placed on the pot to conserve moisture imtil the seedlings break through ; then it must be removed, but it is not advisable to put brow^n paper or moss on the glass. The young plants must be brought on as steadily as possible. When the seedlings are at the stage shown at No. 4, lift and transplant them 3 inches apart each way in pans or boxes. At the stage slrown at No. 5, transfer them to small pots, No. 6. The Training of the Young Plants. — From this stage onwards side shoots will grow freely, but they must not be left on to attain to a length beyond an inch or so. On the yomig plant, No. 7, these side shoots are shown at Nos. 8, S. From the 5-inch pots the plants must be shifted to those in which they are to fruit, or to the boxes or restricted beds, as it is good policy to restrict the roots to a given space, especially in the case of the earliest crop. Positions in which to Fruit the Plants. — There is much available space in many green- houses and small structures that might be used if some staging of a temporary character were erected. No. i in Fig. B shows how the plants may be grown in a deep, heated pit. Other kinds of plants may be grown in the same struc- ture if the Tomatoes are trained 3 feet apart. In many lean-to houses there is some wall space on the back wall above the stage, and quite a number of plants may be grown and trained there, as shown at Nos. 2 and 3. Of coturse, there is always that good position at the front of the house where there is generally room for a few plants on the stage, No. 4. Grow the plants in a rich, fibrous loam, made moderately firm. A sandy loam needs no sand, but a retentive one requires sand and leaf-sod. When two or three trusses of fruit have set and are swelling freely, top- dress the soil, as shown at No. 5, and feed the plants with liquid manures and approved chemicals. CINDERS AND CEMENT FOR GARDEN PATHS. It is always a pleasure to walk on a firm, dry path. One often sees new paths made by the laying down of a thin- coating of rather rough gravel. A path of this kind is never satisfactory. If the rough gravel is laid thick enough and then properly surfaced with finer gravel, the path will be improved as time passes ; but so many lovers of gardens arc- not able to procure gtjod gravel without going to con siderable expense. I am now referring to gardens in town and suburban districts. In many of them ciu- ders are plentiful, and both the cinders and cemenl can be obtained without inuch trouble or expense. Mark out the space for the path and remove the soil to a depth of 5 inches ; then put in the roughesi cinders to a depth of 3 inches, and water theni so that they can be easily firmed and provide a good base for the cinders and cement. Place some fine sifted cinders in a bucket, add pure cement to the extent of one-third the bulk (do not use any sand), and then pour in water, mixing the cement and cinders until the mixture is of the con- sistency of mortar. With the aid of a bricklayer's trowel spread out the mixture to a depth of 2 inches, leaving an even surface. On the latter sprinkle at once a few dry cinders, and gently press them in with the back of a garden spade. The surface will not then be slippery ; the genersd appearance will be pleasing and the path lasting. No weeding of paths will be necessary. Do not use the cement in frostv weather. Shamrock. SHOWING POSITIONS IN WHICH THE PLANTS MAY BE GROWN. I 50 THE GARDEN. [January 24, 1914. GARDENING OF THE WEEK, FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. Early Permanent Vines will uuw in. m tiowtir, aad consequently less atmospheric moisture idll be necessarj'. Shake the trellis several times diirmg the early part of the day in order to distri- bute the pollen, and do not allow the foliage CO come in contact with the glass, but direct the shoots gradually towards the trellis a little at a time. At this stage a night temperature of 70° may be allowed while the weather is mild ; but if cold weather sets in, it is better to drop the temperature to 65" than to employ too much tire-heat to keep it up, and durmg bright days Ine temperature may be allowed to rise to 90° b\' sunheat. Ventilation must be given with great care and only at the top of the house, and this should never be applied with a view to lowering the temperature. Early Peaches and Nectarines in Pots. — The mild weather has been all m favour of forcing, and the early trees will now have set their fruits. Do not attempt to thin the fruits much at present, but leave all on the upper side of the branches for another ten days. In disbudding, which should be done a little at a time, leav^e a well- placed shoot as near the base of the branch as possible, with one or two on the sides of the branches, which may afterwards be shortened back to two or three leaves, in order t(.i form yoimg spurs for another season's crop. Great care is necessary in watering these trees that the soil does not become sour, or many of the fruits will drop. .^ night temperature of 55° will be quite high enough for the present. Syringe the trees lightly on bright days, and keep a careful watch for green or black fly, which may be kept in check by the use of a little Quassia Extract while syring- ing the trees in the afternoon. The Orchard-House. — The trees in this house must be started mto growth with care. They should never be excited by much fire-heat tmtil the flowering period is over, or weak flowers and an inferior set of fruit will be the result. If the trees are potted m suitable soil, no manure- water will be necessary ujitil the fruits are set. Syringe the walls and floor of the house to promote a moist atmosphere. A temperature of 50° at night in mild weather is quite high enough. Plants Under Glass. Smilax. — In order to produce Smilax in quantity for decoration, seeds should be sown now in pans of fine sifted soil, covered lightly and placed on a hot- bed. When large enough to handle, the seedlings shotUd be potted into 2j-mch pots and afterwards into 3-inch pots, growing tbem in a temperature of 70°. ."Vt Frogmore these plants are trained to green string on the back wall of a vinery or Peach-house, and planted in a compost of loam and leaf-soil with sufficient sand to keep the soil m a porous condition. Asparagus Sprengeri may also be sown now and treated in the same way until the plants are finally placed in large baskets and hmig in a warm Palm- house or conservatory. When well established in the baskets, the roots may be frequently soaked with weak liquid manure. The greatest danger to these plants is want of water at the roots. The Flower Garden. Cold Pits containing autumn-struck plants of Calceolarias, Pentstemons, *ic., should be freely ventilated to keep the plants from becoming drawn. Pinch the tops out of Pentstemon plants to encourage side shoots, and when these have become prominent the plants may be potted into 4-inch pots and growii near the glass in the same pit. Calceolarias may be treated m a similar way ; but if standard plants of C. amplexicaulis are required, they must be grown on single stems until they reach the necessary height, when the tups must be removed. Marguerites and Heliotrope struck ui Sep- tember should be potted without delay and placed in gentle heat. It the plants have become drawn, they should be cut back and allowed to remaui until side shoots appear before they are potted. Lobelia cardinalis Victoria. — This beautiful perennial, witli its dark metallic l'ili,Ti;c and bright scarlet flowers, may easily be increased by division of the roots now. These may be potted into 3-inch pots and grown on a bed of ashes in a cold pit, or seeds may be sown now and placed over a gentle bottom-heat. If potted up as soon as ready, they will make nice plants for bedding out in May, and should flower in the month ul .\ugust. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Orchard Fruit Trees. — All new plantations should be finished as soon as possible. Each standard tree will require a strong stake as soon as planted, and if sharp frost or drying wind should prevail, a mulching of some kmd shotUd be placed over the roots. In exposed positions the stems may be protected by hay-bands to prevent evaporation. The Kitchen Garden. Large Onions. — If large Onions are required, the .seeds should be sown about the end of January. Sow in boxes of tine soil and place them in a slightly heated pit. The soil may consist of good sandy loam and leaf-soil, and should be pressed tightly into the boxes. Sow the seeds thinly, and as soon as the plants appear they should be given sufficient air to keep them stocky. Leeks may also be sown now and placed in the same pit for the time being. Seakale. — Roots intended for forcing should be lifted at once and placed behuid a north wall. These roots should be put in an upright position and covered with soil imtil required for forcing. As this work proceeds, sufficient clean thongs should be selected for the propagation of next season's plants. These cuttmgs may be placed in a horizontal position, quite close together, and covered with 4 inches of sandy soil. By .'\pril they will be ready for plantuig out. Peas in Pots. — -An occasional dish of Peas may be obtained by sowing in pots at frequent intervals from now until the end of February. Eight-inch pots are large enough, and the soil may consist of three parts rich loam and one part decayed manure. A well-ventilated house or pit is necessary. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Horse-Radish. — .\s a rule. Horse-radish is generally grown in the most out-of-the-way part of the garden, and perhaps for many reasons this is as it should be, as it is neither fastidious as to sou nor situation. At the same time, it will pay to give it a little more attention than it usually receives. Now is a good time to make a new plantation, and in doing so have the groimd trenched two spits deep, adding some well-rotted manure. In planting, see that the cro%vns are placed at least 4 inches or 5 inches deep. If time permits, it is well to replant each year. Broad Beans. — If a sowing of Broad Beans was not made in the late autumn, no time should be lost in putting in a few rows for an early supply. The seeds should be sown in a fairly moist part of the garden, as the plants will not stand drought. To guard against mice, rub the seeds over with red lead, or stand them for a few hours in paraffin before sowing. Peas. — It is still too early to sow Peas out of doors, at least in the colder climate of the North, but a sowing might well be made now either in pots, cutting-bo.xes or strips o£ turf and placed in a cold frame. Some early dwarf variety, such as English Wonder, is best suited for this sowing. Dwarf Beans. — A dish of Dwarf Beans is usually very much prized in the early spring. A sowing made now will, for ordinary purposes, be early enough. A number of pots may be so\vn and placed in a brisk heat ; the seeds would, of course, do equally well in long, narrow boxes. Last season I grew this batch in ordinary Tomato bo.xes, with very good results. Water should be given very sparingly at first, otherwise the young growths tmTi yellow, which will spell failure. Autumn-Planted Cabbage.— On an early border autumn-planted Cabbage will be all the better for a slight dressing of sulphate of ammonia between the drills if the weather is favourable. An open handful to ever>' 3 yards is sufficient. .\fterwards rim the Dutch hoe between the rows. Mushrooms. — These may be had almost all the year round, provided one possesses the neces- sary accommodation. Those, of course, who only possess a single house ha\-e to be content with a crop occasionally. Still, it is surprising what results one can get by making up a bed in odd corners, provided the 'place selected can be kept at an even temperature without the aid of tire-heat. Collect sufficient horse-manure as will make up a bed (not an easy matter in these days of motors), place in a dry, open shed, and turn p\ery day for about a fortnight. When sufficienth- dry, throw into a heap. For a number of years I have mixed a fair quantity of dr\- leaves with the manure before making up 'the bed, which, I think, tends to preserve the heat. In making up the bed, distribute the manure evenly over the surface and tread it firmly. The temperature will rise very rapidly, and the bed mav be spawned when it has dropped below 90°. The Flower Garden. Sweet Peas. — Sow the main batch of Sweet Peas now either in boxes or pots and place them in a cold frame. This method of raising Sweet Peas is becoming more popular each year, and to my mind rightly so. It is a fact that' with proper management they can be had in bloom as long from a sowing made now as thev can from one made out of doors in March. It' is a good plan to chip the seeds of very scarce varieties to ensure germination. Previous to placing them in the frame, give the surface a good dressing of soot, as slugs play great havoc just as the seedlings are pushing through the soil. Delphinium Belladonna, if sown in mild heat now, will bloom in the late summer and early autumn. It is a lovely shade of blue, and is sure to give the greatest satisfaction to all who grow it. Last season I planted it with Sutton's Blue Nemesia, and it was greatly admired. Spiraea arixfolia. — One could scarcely imagine anything more handsome than a few plants of SplraBa ariaefolia dotted through the border. All these ought to be planted now, for if done later they do not start away so readily. Plants Under Glass. Crotons. — Cuttings mav now be put in the propagating-case. Ring those plants that have grown rather tall. Dracaenas. — Those who wish to increase the stock of Dracaenas may do so now by cutting up the stem into pieces about an inch long. Place them in shallow pans, and keep them where they will have the benefit of a brisk bottom-heat. Gloxinias. — If a sowing of Gloxinias is made now, the yotmg plants will bloom in the late summer, which will add a nice bit of colour, either for furnishing stands indoors or placing among the Adiantums in the feniery. Carnations. — Soil shotild now be prepared for potting on the young Malmaisons layered in the autumn. It is always wise to have the soil pre- pared some little time beforehand, and in doing so add a b-inch potful of hot lime to each barrow- I'lad of soil, and turn frequently. Cypripediums. — The present will be a suitable time to look over the Cypripediums, and .any that show signs of going back may be shaken out and repotted in a mixture of good fibrous loam, peat and sphagnum moss. Others may only require top-dressing. In either case water very' carefully at this stage. Fruits Under Glass. Vines. — .\ttend carefully to disbudding Vines that were started in late December. This work should be done very gradually and by an ex- perienced person. In a number of cases two shoots shoiUd be left to the spur until one is able to see which is showing the better bunch. On fine days, and when much heat is used, keep a good deal of moisture about, but discontinue syruiging the Vines. John Highgate. (Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.) Hopctoun Gardens, South Quecnsferry, WU, January 24, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 51 SEASONABLE NOTES ON SWEET PEAS. FROM the present time and onwards the Sweet Pea enthusiast knows no idle moment. Each week, as it comes round, brings its o^vn particular needs, and if fine exhibition blooms be the desired goal, then the grower must give careful attention to every detail in the cultivation of his plants. Ordering Seed. — Long before these notes appear the real enthusiastic Sweet Pea grower will have procured his seed, and if he be a devotee to autumn sowing, his seedlings will be requiring attention. But procrastination always holds a firm grip on some people, and to them delay in purchasing seeds is deadly dangerous. For several years the seasons have been bad and the crops small ; and although one may hope that the past season may be the last of these lean years, yet both buyer and seedsman must suffer, for the supply cannot equal the demand, and the buyer receives less seed for his money. However, so far as reports can be relied upon, the shortage of seed this year is slightly compensated by the e.xcellent germinating quality of the seeds. Intend- ing growers, therefore, should immediately peruse the advertisement columns of The Garden, in which several reliable seedsmen are advertising, and, a choice having been made, an order should be despatched without further delay. In previous notes contained in the issues of The Garden for December 20, rgis, and January 3, 1914, lists of varieties suited for exhibition and garden purposes respectively were given, and a reference to these will make a selection more easy. I would recommend that several extra varieties be named as substitutes, for in all probability many varieties will have been sold out because of the general shortage of seed, and especially that of the newer varieties. Preparation of tlie Ground. — The ground should have been prepared in the autunm, but if circumstances have prevented this work being done, then as soon as possible it should be deeply and well cultivated, incorporating into it good decomposed manure. Allow the soil to settle down before planting, for loose soil is detrimental to successful growing of Sweet Peas. Seed-Sowing. — ^This may be done any time from the present, just when the opportunity suits the particular grower. Plant either in pots or boxes in rows ; in many instances, where the grower cannot give daily attention, the Sweet Peas thrive best in boxes, which have less chance of getting dry and thus checking regular growth. Sheets of paper or glass placed over the boxes or pots assist germ.ination, and directly the seedlings appear these should be taken off and the plants well exposed to the light, encouraging throughout a slow, sturdy growth. For the seedlings from an autumn sowing a potting on will be beneficial, and they should be pinched (if not already done) to cause new growths from the base. " Potting on " may seem rather a tall order, but the increased vigour resultant from so doing fully compensates for the labour it necessitates. After repotting, if the plants are in frames, it is advisable to keep them fairly close for a few days, and, of course, protect them by coverings ■on frosty nights. Labels. — Where these are used (and most growers are kind to their novice friends by labelling their Sweet Peas) it will be well to utilise any odd moments in preparing them, for little time can be spared later on in the spring for this important work. Referring to names and their multiplicity, one of the pleasing features in many catalogues received is the attempt to obviate this difficulty by carefully arranged lists of best varieties. The catalogue of Hallams, Moseley, Birmingham, is excellent in this respect, and forms a most useful guide, especially for amateurs, who are generally the chief sufferers, often buying the same variety under various names. That of Robert Sydenham, Limited, Tenby Street, Birmingham, is also good, having a well-arranged alphabetical list of the best sorts, from which a selection can easily be made ; while their presentation coloured plate of Sweet Peas Barbara, Princess Mary, Zarina Spencer and Edith Taylor well illustrates these good varieties. Dobbie and Co., Edinburgh, the well-known Sweet Pea firm, give excellent and full cultural notes in their catalogue, a delight- ful production replete with useful information on all matters connected with the garden, and well on a par with other specialities sent out by this noted • firm. Space prevents more than a mere mentioning of the catalogues of Unwin, Dipnall, Bide, and Deal, each full of interest, and I close these notes with congratulations to those seedsmen who have endeavoured to meet and overcome the difficulties that have hindered the progress of the Sweet Pea, and wish them success in the coming season. S. M. Crow. A FINE APPLE ORCHARD. Now that more interest is being taken in Apple-growing in this country, it is just as well to look about and note the most approved methods of cultiva- tion before embarking on the subject, either for profit or home consumption ; and as the old-fashioned orchard on grass has still many adherents, I will briefly describe the result of high-class cultivation as practised at Aldenham House, Elstree. I perhaps know more about the gardens at Aldenham than the majority of visitors, as it has been my pleasure during the last twenty- five years to pay at least an annual visit of some days and, naturally, I note what my good friend, Mr. Beckett, does in the way of extending these princely gardens in obedience to the wish of his enthusiastic employer, the Hon. Vicary Gibbs. As the season for planting Apple trees is still with us, I thought these notes would help intending planters. The orchard in question occupies some ten acres and is all on grass ; originally it was but half the size. The trees are wholly of the standard or half-standard type. Half the trees were planted thirty-seven years ago, but were not a success, and as the subsoil naturally at Aldenham is clay, it was suspected that the rooting conditions were unfavourable. It was decided to replant the trees and add more land to the orchard. Thus, in the year 1886 the work of renovation was begun, this being completed the following year. The land was thoroughly drained and entirely trenched from 3 feet to 4 feet deep, adding any lightening material avaOable, such as burnt earth, to render the soil porous and naturally wanner. The trees were replanted, allowing abundant space between them and as much as 50 feet between the rows. The trees were annually and carefully pruned with a view to obtaining as large an area as possible, at the same time keeping the branches thin and allowing plenty of light in the centre of the trees. The trees were carefully attended to in regard to insect pests, lichen and so forth. Singular to say, the latter is not very troublesome, owing, no doubt, to the favourable rooting conditions and perfect drainage. In many orchards the excessive crops of moss and lichen present are traceable to the unsuitable subsoil, which is, in some cases, so impervious that water from excessive rains cannot quickly get away, thus causing stagnation of the roots. Below I give the names of some of the larger trees, with their spread of branch and approximate crops of fruit last season. Nowhere have I seen Wellington succeed better than here. The trees grow freely and crop annually, giving handsome, clean fruiti;, which keep remarkably well, thus displaying this valuable Apple at its best. Cox's Orange Pippin is a fine tree, in spite of the assertion of some writers that this Apple as a standard is not a success, although last year it did not carry a large crop. Hambledon Deux Ans, Small's Admirable, Lord Derby and a special form of Blenheim Pippin are a special success. New varieties are added as they appear. Variety of Fruit. Circumference of Quanliiy of Branches. Fruit. Feet. Bushels. Blenheim Pippin 102 . .. 18 Bramley's Seedling 87 . 12 Feam's Pippin . . 86 . 16 Cox's Orange Pippin 78 . 8 Golden Noble 81 . . 12 Gascoyne's Seedling 97 . 8 Hambledon Deux Ans . . 103 . 8 King of Tompkins' Count) 90 . 6 Lord Derby 94 . 27 Small's Admirable 87 . 20 M^re du Manage . . 66 . . 18 Tower of Glamis . . 84 . 12 Wellington 71 . 8 Warner's King . . 81 . 16 Swanmore. E. Molyneux. GARDENING ACROSTICS. DOUBLE ACROSTIC No. 8. Firsts. — A celebrated Dutch florist of the eighteenth century (his surname). Lasts. — The flower which he improved. 1. A horticultural distinction. 2. Found in compound words, denoting sharp or acid. 3. A tribute of Kegel to a Russian brother botanist. 4. A good early Plum. 5. Sunflowers. 6. An Auricula man of a century ago (surname). 7. A retarding influence. 8. I look like what I am popularly called, but not like what I am. Solutions of the foregoing must be sent so as to reach the Editor at 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C, not later than the first post on Saturday, January 31. Mark the envelope " Acrostic " in the top left-hand comer. SOLUTION AND NOTES OF ACROSTIC No. 6. CONRAD— GESNER. * I. C ORN-FLA G t 2. O VUL E t 3. N EPHROLEPI S § 4. R AMPIO N II 5- A PPL E K 6. D EODA R Conrad Gesner, bom in 1516 at Zurich, has been called the Pliny of his time. He published a 52 THE GARDEN. [January 24, 1914- " Historia Animalium," and at the time of his death he had collected 1,500 drawings for a history of plants. He died of the plague in his forty- ninth year. — Arber's " Herbals." pages 90 to 93. * Cora-iiag is given in all gardening books as the English name for the Gladiolus, t The ovule after fertilisation develops into the seed, t Nephros, of which Nephrolepis is compounded, is the Greek word for kidney. The coverings of the sori are more or less kidney-shaped. § Campanula Rapun- culus. Rapa is a small Turnip. Prior gives the derivation of Rampion from the French " raiponce," to which " m " has been added for the sake of euphony. — Prior's " Popular Names of British Plants." II See Richard Folkard's " Plant Lore." No fruit, he says, is so famous in fable and history as the Apple. In Britain it gave its name to the "Isle of the Blest" (= Ava'on), and in Saxon times one of the Coronation prayers was " that this land may be filled with Apples." H Cedrus Deodara, or the Indian Cedar, a native of the Himalaya, is frequently mentioned in old Indian hymns and poems. On account of its graceful habit it is a favourite tree for ornamental planting. We speak of it as the Deodar. RESULT OF ACROSTIC No. 6. In this acrostic it was possible to obtain eight marks, one for each correct " first " and " last," and one for each correct light. The following have been awarded : Eight marks. — R. Chapman, M. Browne, " Jan," " Tempus Fugit," N. E. Hadden, W. J. Wigston, " Shamrock," G. D. Kmg, " Brixtonian," " Pen- wame," " Bow," " Rusticus," " St. Kevins," " Ping," " Elm," " Nautilus," W. Bond, " Johnny Crow," L. Biggwither, " Miller," " Hero," Ernest Ballard and " W. R. D." Seven marks. — " Westbank," " Bees Wing," Wm. Slocombe, " Rustic," " White Lady," " M. M.," " Boarsvale," "Scotia" and A. Henderson. Six marks.— Miss G. H. Jeffreys and H. J. Giblett. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. copper sulphate in canvas, and draw it about in the water until dissolved. Two or more applications may be necessary during the summer. SMALL VIOLETS (C. E. F. Jf.).— There is nothing about the flowers sent to account for their small size. Perhaps the plants are fed too well with nitrogenous food, or kept a little too dry, or belong to a poor strain. But there may be something wrong with the plants. The material sent is too scrappy to enable us to say. HERBACEOUS LOBELIAS (P. H. J.).— The nearest approach to crimson in these is in the variety Queei' Victoria, wiiich is more scarlet than crimson. Cardinalis and Firefly also have brilliantly coloured flowers. If the pots were of reasonable size, say, 6 inches to 9 inches across, the plants would do quite well plunged in the bog- bed as you suggest, though we sholdd expect to find them quite hardy if planted out in your district. The plun'ging in pots, however, is not essential, as the plants move (luite safely if lifted with a small ball of earth. Even if a few were lost, they are easily reproduced by means of seeds, and these, if sown in January, make flowering plants in the same year if civen liberal treat- ment. Hardy Orchids suitable for the bog-bed should include Cyprlpedium spectabile, C. pubescens, C. parxi- florum, C. montanum and C. Calceolus. To these should be added Orchis follosa, O. latifolia, O. maculata, O. Mascula and O. purpurea, all of which are interesting and beautiful. warmer. Hydrantzeas only need to be ju^t protected iron* the frost. Your Kentias and Cj'rtomiuras liave very probably been allowed to get too dl^'. wiiile, on the other hand, the trouble may be owin-i to an excess of tnoLstlire-. If the roots are in good condition, an occasional out three weeks, the others from four to Ave weeks. Those marked " again in autumn " would give a few blooms at that season ot the year. June 10 — *Alberic Bart)ier (aeain In autumn). June 15 — •Euphrosyne, •Goldflnch, •KtaS Andr6. Trier (PiTpetual), •Paul Transon (again in autumn), •TausendscI 61, 'Tea Rambler and Flower of Fairfield (Perpetual). June 25 — •Veileheulilau, Aviateur B16riot and Juliet (a-ain in autumn). July 1 — 'Crimson Rambler, •F6li"it6 Per- pStue, *Blush Itamliler and "Starlight. July 10 — "American Pillar. July 20— Dorothy Perkins (a-.-ain ir> autumn). White Dorothy (a-'ain in autumn), Coqvuna, Exeelsa (again in autumn) and Hiawatha (acain in autumn) . ARCHES OF ROSES TO BLOOM CONTINUOUSLY (E. T. M.). — You could plant an early and a late blooming RosetOL'ether. This is often done ; for instance. Carmine Pillar to bloom early, and Aimee Vibert late. If you plant wiehuraiana Roses, you will find the date of flowering given in some lists. Jersey Beauty would flower early, and Evcelsa late. By keeping the growths of each well reduced, there would be no overcrowdinff. Certainly vou could plant Wistaria as you suggest, and the effect would be very pleasing. There are other subjects, such as Llematises, Loniceras, Laburnums, Ac, that will all help to make a pergola most interestin'j -. in fact, one may have something nearly always in bloom by judicious selection. Berberis Darwinii makes a fine hedge, and it grows freely. Veronica Traversii is rather slow. Vou would find Osmanthus ilieifolius a quicker grower than Holly and not so expensive. Rose American Pillar makes a delightful hedge plant, and It is almost evcrgreen- By putting down a few posts and wires you would soon have a good 7-feet to 8-teet hedge, or taller if desired. FLOWER GARDEN. WATER LILY POOLS (H. F. A/.).— It is quite natural for the leaves of your Water Lilies to die m the winter. The opportunity should be taken to clean out the tanks while the plants are at rest. Remove all mud and give new soil If necessary. Scrub the sides of the tanks and make everything as clean as possible. You will doubtless obtain flowers next summer. In the event of the peen scum growing next summer, add copper sulpl at« to the water at the rate of one part of the chemical lo 1,000,000 parts ot water. If you calculate the cubic capacity of the tanks and then assume that each cubic foot of water weighs 62 Jib., you can easily ascertain the correct amount of copper sulphate to use. Tie the THE GREENHOUSE. PLANTS FOR WINDOW CASE (Gerard).— If the weather is very severe, it will he a good plan to protect your case with a covering of some kind ; if of a woolly texture, so much the better. This, of course, will only be necessary in the event of severe frost. Provided you have ample means ot ventilation, the various summer-flowering sub- jects may well he grown in such a structure. Petunias would do well therein, and also Fuchsias, wiille perhaps the most desirable things of all for the purpose would be tuberous-rooted Begonias. TREATMENT OF HYDRANGEAS, KENTIAS AND CYRTOMIUMS (L.). — We should not advise you to cut back your plants of Hydrangea Mrae. Moullidre now, as the prominent terminal buds will contain the future flowers in embryo. Any cutting back required should be done as soon as the llowers are over, and, direct ly new shoots are pushed out, the plants must be repotted if they require it. When the pots are full of roots, an occasional stluuilant will be beneficial. If the cuttings of last sprinc had been in an ordinary frame, they should have lost their leaveB, so we presume that you have kept them rather FRUIT GARDEN. PEACH TREES (S. R. B.).— niass protectors to Peach walls should be placed in position before the trees come into bloom (say, the end of this month), and allowed to remain on till t'lie fruit is set and danger of frost Is passed. GRAFTED TREES : APPLE KING OF THE PIPPINS (C. W. B.). — (1) Three scions In each graft would be quite sutficient to leave, selecting those best placed for future growth. (2) Uoses potted up in December would be better planted in their quarters about the second week in February. ABOUT PLANTING VINES (fl. W. fi.).— It is a pity to take out the variety Alicante, as it is one of the best to grow, crops heavily and keeps well generally. If the roots are well fed and the Vines are not overcropped, the U^rries will not shank. All late varieties should be ripe by October 1 to keep well. If ripened much later, they neither colour well nor ripen. The following are five good varieties to grow, although for general use Black Hamburgh is not excelled by any other : Foster's Seedling, free cropping, easy to manage, keeps well ; JIadresfield Court , heavy cropper, Muscat flavour; Appley Towers, a grand late sort; GrosColman, large berries and bunches, free cropping, hangs on Vines late ; and Lady Hutt, a late white, free cropper, sets berries well, strong growing, and keeps until the new year. No white excels the Muscat of Alexandria, but it is best grown in a house by itself and given special treatment. Messrs. J. 11. Pearson and Sous of Lowdham, Notts, make a speciality of Vines in pots. MISCELLANEOUS. GRUBS OF THE SWIFT MOTH (F il/ C ).— The grubs ire those nf the swift moth, wiiicii Is a Iroiil.lesnme pest of a large number of plants, devouring any lleshy roots almost liidlscrinilnatelv. It would be well to turn up any ground near by rouirlily, so that lirds can get ot the grubs, For starlings and some other blnls arc very (ond of them. Vaporite or "orae otiier soil funiigaut may, perhaps, help to drive theni a,vay. LIME AND MANURE {Kent).— So harm should follow the treatment you adopted in liming the new soil and subsequently mixing well-manured earth with It ; quit© the contrary. Loss of ammonia follows mixing Urae and manure before they are put into the earth, but not after, for the soil will absorb any ammnuia libiTaled. Vour treatment of the soil appears to have been ailmlr- able for the purpose of growing shrubs, and the only addition we can suggest Is that of basic slag at the rate of about four ounces to the square yard. isfey- GARDEN. —^^~ ^^^^fczi^fe No. 2202.— Vol. LXXVIII. January 31, 1914. CONTBNTS. 68 Notes of the Week cokiiespondence Briquettes from coal- aust Mossy Saxifraj^es ia winter 54 The Gold Mohur Tree 64 Lai e-dowcring Hoses 54 Eccremocarpus scaber 55 A gooil plant for a north or east wall A new race of winter or early - flowering Sweet Peas . . Ceanothus Gloire de Versailles as a pot plant 55 An interesting shrub 55 Forthcoming events . . 55 Hose-growing in town gardens 55 In a Hampshire garden 5li Canker in fruit trees . , 56 Frasera speciosa . . . . 57 Saxifraga oppositifolia in its native habitat 54 65 55 57 58 59 Orchid notes J.'wo interesting shrubs CoLonRED Plate The Caucasian Scabious and its varieties The herbaceous or mixed border . . Gaedening fop. Beginners Trees aud shrubs for wind screens . . 61 The cultivation of Figs .61 Wnat to do mth gar- den refuse . . . . 61 Gardeni.ng of tke Week For Southern gar- dens 62 For Northern gar- dens 62 Is the Daffodil a florist's flower f 63 Gardening acrostics . . 63 Answers to Correspon- dents 63 Societies 64 I L Id U ST RATIONS. Mossy Saxifrages in winter 54 Frasera speciosa 56 Saxifraga oppositifolia growing among stones . . . . 57 Cistus corbariensis, a beautiful Rock Rose 58 The Caucasian Scabious Coloured plate A spray of the Winter Sweet 59 An eflEective way to group Gladioli 60 Method of arranging plants 60 Sketch showing comparative distances to plant . . 60 5foung, erect-growing Poplars as a wind screen . . 61 HDITORIAIi NOTICES. Every department of horticulture is repre- sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions relating to matters upon which they wish expert advice. The Editor welcoines photographs, articles and notes, but he will not be responsible for their safe return. All reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps are eiKlosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted contributions. As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated. It mnst be distinctly understood tliat only the actual photo- grapher or owner of tlie copyright will be treated with. The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an article is accepted. Publication in The Gakden will alone be recognised as acceptance. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Offices: 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Oarden. W.C. To Our Readers. — We shall be glad if any reader who experiences difficulty in obtaining The Garden from newsagents will send us particulars. Starting Fuchsias. — Plants that have been stored for the winter may now be gone over and pruned, and before placing them in any of the houses, examine them carefully for mealy bug. Where some of the older plants have become unsightly, it is a good plan to cut them back almost to the pot, when they will break and make good furnishing plants. Flowers Visited by Humming-Birds. — The bright red flowers of Erythrina Crista-galli are inverted, the wings are nearly aborted, and the keel forms at its base a honey sac. This curious structure has led to the supposition that the flowers are visited by humming-birds. Brug- mansia Knightii is another favourite in culti- vation with inverted flowers that is said to be visited by humming-birds, but such instances are very uncommon. A Beautiful Early Crocus. — In some sheltered spots the flowers of the charming Crocus Sieberi are already showing, and, given a few suimy days, will soon be fully open, and so reveal the beauty of the orange-coloured stigmata. This colour makes a fine contrast to the soft lilac hue of the petals, which, it must be admitted, are rather easily damaged by bad weather. However, it is a Crocus that we would not like to be without, coming as it does in the wake of the Snowdrops and Winter Aconites. Improving Lawns. — Tennis lawns and golf putting greens that, from pressmre of work, were not top-dressed in the autumn should now receive attention. If moss is present, scarify the ground with a sharp-toothed rake, give a good dressing of groimd lime or powdered charcoal, and after- wards apply some sand and sifted soil, distributing it evenly over the surface with a broom or the back of a rake. It will, however, be too early to apply artificial manure ; this had better be deferred till March. The Winter Heliotrope. — Petasites fragrans, commonly known as Winter Heliotrope, although so often looked upon as a weed, is worthy of more notice than it sometimes receives. The scent is very pronounced, somewhat similar to the well- known Cherry Pie (Heliotropiimi peruviauimi), and if grovm in pots and placed in the greenhouse or sitting-room when in flower, very few plants that we are acquainted with afford so rich a perfume, although perhaps the peculiar Almond- like scent may not be agreeable to all. .Although highly valued for the fragrance of its blossoms produced now, at what might be termed a dreary period of the year, precautions should be taken when introducing it into the flower border. A good plan is to enclose the roots in a large flower- pot or pan, and plunge this in the ground, other- wise the roots spread rapidly. Alterations in the Rock Garden. — Any altera- tions intended to be made in this department should be accomplished as soon as possible, so that planting may take place before the season is too far advanced. When sharp frost is over, it may be foiuid necessary to reduce some of the stronger-growing plants to make room for choicer subjects, such as hardy Primulas, which are not grown so much as one might expect, considering their hardy constitution. They will live through a severe winter, provided they have good drainage. Their habit of raismg themselves above the surface of the soil renders it necessary to apply a top- dressing of good soil in the autunm. The Cilician Winter Aconite. — This plant, Eranthis cilicicus, has but little to distinguish it from our older one, E. hyemalis, the ordinary Winter Aconite. Both flower very early, and both have yellow flowers surrounded with the pretty Elizabethan ruff of green, which increases their beauty so much. The flowers of E. cilicicus may be slightly larger and possibly more finely cut, though this serration varies in different lots, and the shade of green may be slightly deeper or more bronzy ; but for all garden purposes there is little to choose between the two. A moist soil suits the Winter Aconite, and, though common, it is a flower we cannot well dispense with if we wish to have a glint of gold very early in the year. Help tor Aged and Infirm Gardeners.— On another page will be found a report of the aimual election of pensioners on the funds of the Gar- deners' Royal Benevolent Institution. We take this opportunity of appealing to our readers to subscribe to this admirable chari- table Institution, which exists for the pur- pose of granting pensions to old or infirm gardeners, or the widows of gardeners. It is extremely sad to think that many thoroughly deserving persons cannot be relieved of unmerited distress, owing to the lack of fimds. The Insti- tution is conducted by a strong committee, the members of which are held in the highest esteem in the world of gardening, and as all expenses, which are really very low considering the amotmi of work done, are met by the interest on invest- ments, every peimy subscribed is used for actual relief. We therefore hope that our readers, in enjoying the many beautiful flowers in their gardens, will give more than a passing thought to these poor old people, many of whom in the past have contributed their quota of industry in bringing these flowers into being, and who, through no fault of their own, have fallen on evil times. The secretary is Mr. G. Ingram, 92, Victoria Street, Westminster, and he will be pleased to furnish anyone with full particulars concerning the work of the Institution. 54 THE GARDEN. [January 31, 1914. CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents.) done, the occasions are rare, 1 venture to affirm, have only to add that Viscountess Folkestone when they approach anjnvhere near the above one of the most fragrant and fascinating of all Briquettes from Coal-dust. — Is it possible to concoct " home-made " briquettes (for burning on a coal fire, open or closed) from an accumulation of coal-dust? If so, what should be mixed with the coal, and what is the method for maldng and shaping the briquettes ? — Clossy, Hants. Mossy Saxifrages in Winter.— I can fully endorse all that is said about Mossy Saxifrages (issue January lo. page 17) and the dense carpet of vivid green in winter. In frosty weather, however, the contrast with the sombre hue of the surrounding rocks is even greater, as may be judged from the accompanying photograph, taken on January 24 last, when vege- tation generally was clothed in a mantle of hoar-frost. — C. Q. Primula pulverulenta Mrs. R. V. Berlieley. — I am grateful to Dr. Macwatt for having corrected my description of this Primula, which appeared in your issue of January 10, page 22. There can be no doubt that the variety figured is the same as Dr. Macwatt's, for both were obtained from the same source. As for the seeding of this variety, I have since learnt that so far it has not produced seed in this coimtry, although it was ■ originally raised from seed sent home by Messrs. James Veitch and Sons' collector from China. — A. D. M, The Gold Mohur Tree.— In your issue of January 17 1 note that Mr. T. Tillard has answered ■ " G. D.'s " enquiry about the Gold Mohur Tree. Mr. Tillard is right in saying that it is a variety of Poiriciana — it is Poinciana regia, of, I think, the Acacia family. It flourishes considerably in Lower Burma and the Straits Settlements. It grows beautifully in Maulmain, Tenasserim, where it was first known by the Burmese as "-Yondawbyar," meaning " The Coming Back from Court Flower," as a tree had been planted near the Court House, and the young clerks used to stick a flower of it in their hair and take it home to their sweethearts or wives. — Burma. A Fine Plant of Euphorbia jacquiniseQora.— Some time back, when looking round an old garden in this North London district, I made note of a very good specimen of the above plant, which was growing in a border of a warm greenhouse. I was unable to gather any actual data as to its age, but it had evidently been there a good number of years. It was about three feet in height and rather more in width, while some of the stems were of considerable thickness, which fact would strengthen the idea of age. It has not been my good fortune to grow or see grown such an excellent plant as the foregomg. The usual practice, as is well known to plantsmen, is to grow them in pots either singly or in threes, and, however well dimensions.. Apparently the border' ■ method of growing this Euphorbia is most satisfactory, at least where large plants are valued, together with the possibility of their living several years. MXer once the cuttings are struck (a difficult matter at times), I do not think the secret of doing this plant well rests with' the tremendous heat, as some growers advise, but rather with a well-drained and warm rooting medium and more air than is usually given. — C. T., Highgate, N. Late-Flowering Roses. — The Rev. David R. Williamson writes us from Kirkmaiden Manse on Januan- 24 : " It may interest your Rose- A WINTER SCENE IN THE ROCK GARDEN. MOSSY SAXIFRAGES COVERED WITH HOAR-FROST. loving readers to learn that I have had several highly attractive varieties in flower in my garden within the past week. Among these were an abnormally tall plant of Margaret Dickson, which, after climbing through an exceptionally high Hawthorn hedge for fully five years, now blooms at least three times in the year at a height of not less than 21 feet. Another specimen of the same heroic and highly attractive Hybrid Perpetual (which should rather be regarded as a Hybrid Tea, as Lady Mary Fitzwilliam has imparted to it many of her best attributes), which is also at present in flower, overtops an Apple tree in the centre of the garden at an almost equally proud elevation. Its world-renowned raiser, Mr. Alex- ander Dickson of Newtownards, is naturally much gratified by its achievements in my garden. I Roses, and the beautiful Bouquet d'Or are also flowering still." So much has been written about late- blooming Roses that it may seem ridiculous to mention that on January 9, when visiting the nurseries of Messrs, Allwood Brothers, near Hayward's Heath, I found a batch of Roses in their garden blooming quite freely. Several hundred bushes in the open nursery were practically bare of leaf, but in the garden, sheltered by a tall hedge, the bushes were full of foliage, while really fine flowers of Rich- mond, Lady Ursula, Mrs. W. Christie Miller and many others were to be seen on everv hand. On pointing out the value of all flowers at the present time, one of the men was told to cut the blooms, for many of the Richmonds were equal to those making 5s. per dozen in the market. — T. A. W. Ranunculus Matthewsii and Varieties. — Readers of The Garden, and especially lovers of rare alpines, owe a debt of gratitude to Mr. W. Wilcox of New Zealand for the photograph of that little-known plant R. Matthewsii, an illustration of which appeared on page 2 iji the issue of January 3, and for bringing to the notice of the flower-loving public one of the finest sub-alpines of the -\ntipodes. To let his note and illustration pass imnoticed not only damps the ardom: of the warmest enthusiast, but dis- courages him from sending further notes which might prove helpful and interesting. Writing in answer to a note of mine which appeared in The Garden about three years ago, your esteemed correspondent " S. A." thought the species difficult to cultivate and establish in this country. But at the great International Show, 1912, Messrs. Backhouse of Y'ork seemed to have dominated those difficulties. As reported in The Garden, May 25, 1912, page 256, we read that this enter- prising firm had exhibited in their rock garden " the rarely seen Ranunculus Lyalli (of which Matthewsii is a variety), with its handsome flowers of glistening white above the setting of glossy peltate leaves. This is perhaps one of the rarest plants in the exhibition, one to look for and admire." In The Garden for July 30, 1910, an excellent illustration is given of R. Lyalli, from a photograph sent by a New Zealand reader, Mrs. Izard of Whanaka, which gives a good idea of the beauty of this plant growing in its native habitat. Mr. Wilcox in- forms me that he has still another rare thing in store, and is looking forward to it flowering this year. This is R. Lyallii variety Traversii, which he collected four years ago. — J. E. Davies, The Gardens, Talygarn, Pontyclun, Glamorganshire. January 31, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 55 Eccremocarpus soaber. — How is it that this handsome climbing plant is to a great extent neglected ? True, it is not, strictly speaking, hardy, but one sometimes finds plants of this so-called half-hardy perennial which have become thoroughly established and produce an annual display of their trumpet-shaped, orange flowers. The writer last autumn saw a splendid example of this plant in Essex. This particular specimen receives no protection during the winter, and has been growing for several years in its present position. Plants can be raised frorn seed, but it sown in the ordinary way, viz., covered over with soil, the results are anything but satisfactory. Seed which falls to the ground will often germinate freely. This fact gives one the correct method to adopt when sowing. Seed sown in shallow trays containing a thin layer of moist soil and not covered will almost invariably germinate. The trays may be placed in a frame or cold house and given a shady position. Do not allow the soil to become dry. — C. R., Saffron Walden. A Good Plant for a North or East Wall.— White-flowering plants suitable for planting against walls having a north or eastern aspect are not too plentiful. There are several species of Clematis which thrive in these positions, also Spiraeas. The subject of this note, Deutzia crenata, or, as it is sometimes called, D. scabra, is not so often seen as it should be. Although often met with in shrubberies, where it is frequently a sadly neglected plant, its qualities as a climber are not fully appreciated. The principal reason is that the proper method of pruning is seldom followed. This is one of the many Deutzias which require severe pruning immediately after flowering. The flowers are produced on the young shoots of the previous season's growth, and the stronger these shoots are, the better the flowers. Young growths 5 feet or 6 feet in length are produced by this treatment. These should te secured to the wall about eight inches apart. A good loamy soil suits the plant, and moisture is essential during the season of growth. — Colin Ruse, Sulhamsiead. A New Race of Winter or Early Flowering Sweet Peas. — More than eighteen months ago I was told by Mr. Arthur Yates of Sydney, Australia, that a very precocious sport had recently appeared there among some ordinary Spencers. The seed had been saved, and a wonderfully early flowering strain had resulted. This is known in Australia as the Yarrawa Spencer, and has been a decided acquisition in such warm climates as that of Sydney, for if seed be sown in late summer or early autumn, the plants will begin to bloom in two months from the time of sowing, and continue in flower for some two or three months longer ; in fact, until the hot weather begins. Tliis strain has now been crossed with the older winter- flowering varieties, with the result that a large and vigorous race has been obtained, which is further distinguished by well-formed blooms of much substance. The name " Concord Hybrids " has been given to it, and it is said by the raiser to be superior to the Algerian one of Arkwright, the American of Zvolanck, or the British of Engel- mann. I am going to try these Australian seeds this spring, and I hope to send an account of them later on in the year. It seems to me that a public trial of these various early flowering strains that are now before the public would be most useful. Why should not the Royal Horticultural Society be asked to find room for a small representative collection of each of them, and grow some in pots under glass and some in the open ? I find these early Sweet Peas so very useful, and I would like to know which is the best. — Josepi! Jacob. Ceanothus Gloire de Versailles as a Pot Plant. — Having given this shrub a trial as a pot plant, I have been agreeably surprised to find how readily it responds to such treatment. One is so accustomed to see it making a glorious display on a wall, herbaceous border, or in a shrubbery, that it is rather difficult to picture so much at home in a pot. To those, however, who have not grown it in this way I would suggest doing so, for the result will afford ample compensation. A strong point in favour of this treatment is the advantage of being able to hasten or retard the flowering period. Quite nice bushy plants may be obtained in 6-inch or 7-inch pots. While any kind of forcing should be avoided, the Ceanothus may safely be placed in a warm greenhouse to hasten its growth a little in early spring, a light, airy position being chosen. In order to be retarded, the plants should be plunged in a bed of ashes under a north wall, and pruning delayed as long as possible. After the flowering period an outside position in full sunlight ripens the wood and ensures another successful display the following season. The plants should be wintered outside, with the pots plunged to protect them from frost. When pruned, the young wood should be cut hard back to one or two good " eyes." — H. Turner, Serlby Gardens, Baiatry. An Interesting Shrub. — Though by no means a brightly coloured flowering shrub, the Bladder Senna (Colutea arborescens) has its own particular beauty, which is quite sufficient to justify its inclusion in even a limited collection of shrubs. The Coluteas belong to the Order Lcguminosae, and are easily grown shrubs, thriving in poor soil and in exposed situations. C. arborescens is said to be one of the few plants that grow on or near the crater of Mount Vesuvius. The flowers are borne in great profusion in short sprays, and are yellow in colour. These arc followed by the seeds, which invariably set with great free- dom, and are contained in highly inflated pods. These latter are the chief attraction, and a good- sized shrub covered with these peculiar-looking pods always attracts attention. There is a variety, media, which is even more prolific than arborescens and not quite so large in the size of the bush. The colour of the flowers is also different, being more of an orange shade. This variety was very fine last autumn in Mr. Brough's interesting garden at Ochilview, near Perth, where it was greatly admired by numerous visitors. Among the many choice shrubs grown there it was the outstanding feature during August and September. Coluteas are easily increased either by seeds or cuttings, the latter taken off with a heel and inserted in sandy soil in autumn either in a cold frame or in a sheltered comer outside. -^ W. L., South A yrshire. ROSE-GROWING IN GARDENS. IN TOWN FORTHCOMING EVENTS. February 2. — National Chrysanthemum Society's Annual General Meeting. February 3. — Scottish Horticultural Associa- tion's Meeting. February 5. — Linnean Society's Meeting. February 6. — Royal Gardeners' Orphan Fund Annual Meeting at Simpson's, Strand, at 5 p.m. February 7. — ^Royal Scottish Arboricultural Society's Annual Meeting. Societe Frangaise d' Horticulture de Londres Meeting. February 9. — United Horticultural Benefit and Provident Society's Committee Meeting. HYBRID PERPETUALS, although among the hardiest Roses, are by no means best for town gardens. For the most part they are more fastidious as regards soil than the Hybrid Teas, and are only really satisfactory where the staple is of a heavy nature. All are more or less addicted to mildew, and, speaking generally, they are strong growers which do not give results in proportion to the space they occupy. However, we must still look to the Hybrid Perpetuals for some of the best dark reds, and although they are mostly inferior to the Hybrid Teas in regard to shape and freedom of flowering, almost all are very sweetly scented. The Best Hybrid Perpetuals.— The two that no Rose-grower can afford to be without are Frau Karl Druschki and Hugh Dickson. Both are known and grown everywhere, and there can be hardly a Rose garden in which they find no place. If the garden be very small — and un- fortunately there are many such in towns — it is best to limit the choice in Hybrid Perpetuals to these two varieties, relying on the Hybrid Teas for the rest. In this case they can be grown as standards on thei lawn, for which both are eminently suitable, and they will make good companion trees. The red and white form a very effective contrast, and this arrangement has the advantage of separating them from the Hybrid Tea and Tea Roses. Both are rather difficult to accommodate as dwarfs, on account of their un- willingness to behave as such. Frau Karl Druschki has an especially awkward habit of breaking with tremendous vigour from the topmost eye, which must be fully taken into consideration at pruning-time, or plants become unshapely. Both are suitable for pegging down. Those with sufficient room to devote one or more beds to this section will find a number do quite well in towns where the soil is suitable. Ulrich Brunner is a fine, sturdy grower, free-flowering and very sweetly scented, though not always satisfactory in the quality of the blooms it gives, and its very light green foliage seems to have an extra attrac- tion for all insect pests. Mrs. John Laing is another fragrant and good all-round variety, though it seems hardly necessary to go to the Hybrid Perpetuals for pink Roses. Gloire de Chedane Guinoisseau is a promising variety of fine shape and colour that seems likely to become a recognised town Rose. Captain Hayward is a fine Rose of a dazzling shade and free-flowering, but not good in a hot season, and even more insistent than most Hybrid Perpetuals in demand- ing a clay soil. Those who would have dark crimson kinds should include in their selection Fisher Holmes, Charles Lefebvre and Commandant Felix Faure. In the case of many of the old Hybrid Perpetuals, half a century or more of artificial propagation seems to have robbed them of some of their original characteristics. Of Prince Camille de Rohan, what is practically a non-flowering strain seems to be pretty widely distributed. Marie Bauraann is another which seems to have deteriorated, and many nurserymen are giving it up. Margaret Dickson and Mrs. Shar- man Crawford should not be grown in town gar- dens, both being too prone to mildew, while Horace Vernet is of little use except on the maiden plants. Rambling Ros^s and their use in town gardens will be dealt with on February 14. P L. Godd.\kd, hQ THE GARDEN. [January 31, 1914. IN A HAMPSHIRE GARDEN. SOME OF THE NEWER POMPONS (POLYANTHAS). FROM climbers and semi-climbers one passes to the other extreme, namely, the Pompon or Miniature Roses ; and one would like to emphasise the fact that a very great deal of pleasiure is missed by the Rose-grower who omits to have a fair selection of these delightful Roses in his garden. One uf the first as a class to flower— by reason of the fact that no pruning is required, only a removal of the flower-stems of the previous season ; these carry no dormant buds, but are bare of all possibility of further growth — they go on flowering, so much so that if a Rose is ever to be found on a plant in every month in the twelve, it is on these Pompons that I should expect to find it. At the present time (January 20) Mme. E. A. Nolt^, one of the stronger-growing varieties,. is carrying flowers and buds in profusion, and that same bush had flowers on it in April last year, so that is ten months out of the twelve. Some of them, of course, drop their foliage, and with the foliage goes the flower ; but others seem to retain it until the new growth literally pushes off the old. There have been quite a number of additions to this class during recent years, but 1 have not attempted to keep pace with them in my own garden, only getting the best of those I have seen growing elsewhere. Among those I have seen in this way are the following : Backfisch (Peter Lambert, 1910). — This is rather a cruel sort of name for a pretty Rose ; pink blossom, not very large, but ol distinctly good shape. No doubt there is a reason for the label, but these things ought to be translated for us. The plant is free-flowering. Cyclope (Dubreuil, 1910). — This was described as an improved Jessie; but I prefer Jessie. It is a dark crimson, with a distinct white stripe, and is possibly as free-flfjwering. Daphne (Rev. J. H. Pemberton, 1913). — This IS, I see, classed with the Pompons, but is really a Hybrid Musk, one of those Roses possibly that it was hoped would climb ; but it has refused to do so. At any rate, it is perpetual flowering, and is vigorous for this class. Semi-double, pretty rose pink flowers, fading to flesh. Erna Teschendorff (Teschendorff, ign). — Another " improved Jessie," and this time with possibly somewhat more title to that distinction. It is a good dark crimson that does not fade ; said to be a sport from Mme. Norbert Levavasseur. Let us hope it will never revert back to its parent. What an appalling colour Mme. Norbert Levavasseur can be, and generally is ! Ellen Poullsen (Poullsen, 1912). — A good deep pink, nicely scented. All these Roses are free-flower- mg and perpetual, so I shall leave out these two remarks in dexluig with the remamder. The flowers are rather larger than the usual run of Pompons. George Elger (E. Turbat and Co., 1912).— This is quiU one of the best of these new introductions ; a good bright, clear yellow, deeper, of couT'Se, in the bud. Flowers medium size, and making a nice-shaped plant. Jenny Soupert (Soupert et Notting, 1912). — This is a good-shaped white, flushed pink in the early stages. Nice large clusters of flowers ; likely to be useful. Jessie (Merryweather, 1909). — This well-known Pompon is only mentioned here to draw attention to the fact that it makes a really excellent half- Orleans Rose (Levavasseur, 1910). — A deeper- coloured Mrs. Cutbush, and by some said to be preferred of the two, as it is, if anything, the freer flowering, especially in the autumn. It flowered here right up to Christmas. It is quite good. Pompon de Lyon (DubreuU, 1913). — Another deep puik, but distinct enough. Not so strong a grower as some. One would call it medium for this class ; that is, about 12 inches or 15 inches. Queen of the Musiss (Paul and Son, 1912). — This is a delightful Rose ; Hybrid Musk I suppose we should call it. Very free, and making an excellent bedding Rose. Flesh white flowers, with deeper- coloured buds. Recommended. Yvonne Rabier (E. Turbat and Co., 1911). — The companion to Maman Turbat at the Chelsea International Exhibition. This is a fine white ; flowers large and produced in beautiful panicles. A most effective bedding Rose. Recommended. Six good varieties of the older sorts in distinct colours would be found in the following : Leonie Lamesch (very tall), Mme. E. A. Nolte, Philippine Lambert, Perle d'Or, CecUe Brunner and Eugenie Lamesch (very dwarf). Southampton. Herbert E. Molyneux. FRASERA SPECIOSA, A LITTLE-KNOWN PLANT WITH CREAM V-WHITE FLOWERS. standard, and, so used, has a quaint effect as | plant isolated or dot plants. Maman Turbat (E. Turbat and Co., 191 1). — First seen at the Chelsea International Exhibi- tion, where it was much admired. As seen out of doors, it is even finer. It makes fine growth, and produces its flowers in very large trusses. Colour, pleasing China Rose. Recom- mended. {\ CANKER IN FRUIT TREES. \_l)i Answer to a Correspondent,] OF all the troubles of fruit- i growers, canker is one of I the most general and the ' most easily recognised. Most of us are too familiar with the large, unsightly gaps it makes in the bark of Apple trees, gradually spreading round the branch until it has completely girdled it and the branch dies. Canker has been attributed to a very large number of causes, and there are undoubtedly several different forms on Apples in various parts of the world, and probably more than one in this country, but the commonest is that asso- ciated with the fungus Nectria ditissima, the bright red fruits of which are being produced now on canker spots on the affected trees. Like many other disease- producing fungi, this can only attack trees through open wounds. The spores applied to the healthy, unwounded bark have no power of penetrating it ; but should they, in early spring or in summer, when the spores are liberated in myriads, be carried by wind or insects on to an open wound, they will germinate, and in all probability make their wa>' into the cambium and quickly destroy it. Thenceforth there is a constant struggle between the affected and the fungus for supremacy. The plant during its more active periods \vill strive, by making a wound-healing callus, to cover up the wound, and may, if it be in thoroughly good health, succeed in doing so and in getting the better of the fungus ; but generally, as soon as growth is checked by seasonal changes, the fungus grows ahead and destroys the tissues newly made. This kind of thing will go on year after year. January 31, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 57 sometimes for many years if the diseased branch be a large one, the wound in the bark becoming more and more open, and allowing bacteria and so on to reach and cause the decay of the wood. One of the first effects of the attack — the destruc- tion of the bark over some considerable area — causes the flow of food made in the foliage down the stem to be interfered'with. A greater quantity of food is thus kept in the stem above the wound, and, at the same time, there is a lessening of the water sent up the wood, since the death of the cambium has caused a cessation in its formation. This increase of stored food and decrease in water supply has the usual result of increasing fruitful- ness, though the fruits produced will probably remain small. The last state quickly comes, however, growth gradually or rapidly ceases, and death supervenes. Two things, thus, are necessary for the spread of the disease — the fungus, and the wound by which it may enter. It is impossible to exterminate the fungus, for, although great care would destroy it in orchards, there still re- main Crab Apples, and, in addition, several other native trees are liable to attack. Wounds difficult to heal can be avoided to a large extent, how- ever, by taking care that all cuts made are clean and large ones ; after smoothing over with a knife, protect by painting with lead paint or tar (not smearing with earth, as is so often done). Wounds made by in- sects, frost cracks, dead shoots break- ing off, careless climbing about in trees, gunshots, and the like are also a menace. Of insects, none is worse than the woolly aphis or American blight. The soft tissue produced as a result of its attack is very liable to act as a nursery for the fungus while it is young, and from this spot it spreads and does serious damage. Frost cracks and dead shoots resulting from frost in spring are always more common in wet and low-lying locali- ties than in places where there is a free circulation of air and thorough soil drainage. The bottom of a valley is one of the worst spots for late frosts as a rule ; higher up the slope the trees are far less liable to suffer. These frost wounds are mostly at the base of a bud, or in the angle between stem and branch. The other causes of wounds can be avoided with care, and, where they occur, every care should be taken to protect the wounds made. Certain varieties are more subject to canker than others, probably because they are more liable to wounding. Ribston Pippin, Cox's Orange Pippin, and Wellington (or Dumelow's Seedling) are notoriously liable to canker, and where heavy sou or places liable to sharp late frosts have to be dealt with, it is wiser to select the hardiest varieties of Apple. Cutting out and burning the diseased patches is the only method of dealing with the disease when once the tree is attacked, and, at the same time, care should be taken to paint over wounds thus made. The knife used should be dipped in carbolic acid or in methylated spirit after each cut is made. It should be remembered that the bright red fruits already referred to are not the only source of infection. The fungus produces another type of spore by which it is spread, this time taking the form of whitish patches on the canker spots and occurring during the warmer parts of the year, so that immediate attention to any wound is best. Scientist. FRASERA SPECIOSA. The little-known genus Frasera contains about seven species of North-West American hardy perennials belonging to the Natural Order Gentianaceae. One of the most showy species is F. speciosa, which sends up a straight and strong flower-spike from 3 feet to 4 feet in height. The general appearance of this plant resembles that of a Veratrum or False Hellebore, which, however, belongs to quite another Natural Order, viz., LiliaceEB. The flowers of F. speciosa are creamy white, and are borne in June and July. It thrives in a fairly moist situation, and forms a suitable subject for planting in a low bay in the rock garden. plantation — this Saxifrage grows in such abundance that its deep green leaves and rosy purple (ranging to pale pink) flowers ca 1 be seen from a con- siderable distance. It seems hardly credible that the plant could find sufficient nourishment in such a waste of stone to thrive so luxuriantly ; but no doubt the constant decay of the older leaves provides some amount of humus, and the patches of growth are sure to arrest any finer particles which may come down the mountain- side. Reginald A. Malby. ORCHID NOTES. THE CALANTHFS. T"'HESE are terrestrial Orchids which may be divided into two sections — the evergreen and deciduous — and it is with the latter that I shall deal. They are very popular plants, and are largely grown in gardens where there is no SAXIFRAGA OPPOSITIFOLIA GROWING AMONG STONES ON A MOUNTAIN SIDE. The genus Frasera is named after John Fraser (i 750- 181T), a collector of North American plants. SAXIFRAGA OPPOSITIFOLIA IN ITS NATIVE HABITAT. This Saxifrage, a large scale illustration of which appeared in The Garden of November 30, igr2, has its principal habitat among the rugged rock- falls of the higher passes, where its minute growths make vast cascades of verdure, mantling the rocky ground. The accompanying illustration shows forcibly the kind of position in which it makes its home. Here, forming an enormous buttress against the steep western face of the Schwarzhorn, in the Valais, lie the shattered remnants of that portion of the mountain upon which the elements have made such an onslaught. Many of these blocks, which lie about in all directions, weigh several tons, and in the interstices of these huge lumps — probably where some small amoimt of wind-blown detritus had accumulated to start the attempt made to cultivate other Orchids. This can be easily understood when we take into con- sideration their free-flowering qualities, and the fact that the long spikes are produced from December till March. Repotting. — After the flower-stems are removed, the pseudo-bulbs take a short rest in a temperature of 50° to 55° Fahr., and when growth and root action commence, the repotting must be done. Some growers place one bulb in a pot, but where the bulbs are plentiful several may be included, so that a nice specimen that will come in very useful for decoration in the dwelling-house is secured. The largest bulbs may be planted singly in 5-inch pots, and about four of the smaller ones in a 7-inch or 8-inch pan. Each receptacle should have one- fourth of its depth filled with drainage, over which is laid a thin layer of fibrous loam. If not already done, the bulbs must have all the old 'soil shaken away, and the roots cut back to an inch or so of their base, the object being to leave a httle tuft 58 THE GARDEN. [January 31, 1914. to keep the bulbs firm in the fresh compost. This consists of the best fibrous loam one-half, peat one-fourth, the other part being made up of sphagnum moss, small crocks or charcoal, and a little manure from the old spent Mushroom-bed or a sprinkling of bone-meal. The whole should be broken up into pieces about the size of a Walnut, and when thoroughly mixed it will be ready for use. Press the soil fairly firm, and when the operation is completed, the surface ought to be just below the rim, as Calanthes enjoy plenty of water when thoroughly established. Subsequent Treatment. — A light position in the plant stove. Cucumber-house or warm Orchid- house should be selected, and water ought not to be given frequently until the roots take possession of the compost. As growth advances and the new bulb forms, they must never be dry at the base till after the flowering period. A moist atmosphere must be maintained, and a little top and bottom kind is required, Regnieri shoiild be chosen ; it blooms at a time when all fear of fog is passed. T. W. Briscoe. at home on a wall of any aspect, at least in Southern gardens. A deep, rich sandy soil suits it best, and it should be kept trained neatly to the wall or building against which it is planted. TWO INTERESTING SHRUBS. THE WINTER SWEET. (Chimonakthus fragrans.) IT is no small wonder that the fragrant flowers of the Winter Sweet are so much appreciated, for they are borne in the depth of winter, however bleak and cold it may be. More- over, the sprays are so useful for cutting, the flowers lasting for weeks in a room and yielding their precious fragrance the whole time. This shrub was introduced from Japan nearly a century and a-half ago, and it is bound to remain A BEAUTIFUL ROCK ROSE. CiSTUS CORBARIENSIS. Although not often cultivated, this is unques- tionably one of the most delightful of all the Rock Roses.- In June it is literally smothered with small white, satin-like flowers that resemble single Roses. It is of low-spreading habit, not exceeding 2 feet in height. Like other Rock Roses, it is well adapted for a warm bank or a sunnv position in the rock garden, and it seems to show preference for a stony soil. C. corbariensis is sometimes regarded as a variety of C. salvifohus, but it is probably a hybrid between that species and C. populifolius. In very hard winters it is not unusual for some of the Rock Roses to be severely damaged, or even killed out- right, by frost. This, however, may be guarded against by covering up the compact shrubs either with dry litter or mats. One of the hardiest species is C. laurifolius, which does quite well even in Scottish gardens, while C. pur- puruns and C. ladaniferus are two other beautiful species that as a rule with- stand frosts satisfactorily. Like the Sun Roses (Helianthemums), to which they are related, the Rock Roses are delightful subjects for growing on sunny banks or in positions facing south in the rock garden. TH E CAUCASIAN SCABIOUS AND ITS VARIETIES. 1 COLOURED PLATE 1486. CISTUS CORBARIENSIS, A BEAUTIFUL ROCK ROSE SUITABLE FOR CLOTHING A WARM BANK. ventilation be given during hot weather. Calanthes do not require so much shade as the majority of Orchids, but some slight protection from the strong rays of the sun is necessary during the hottest part of the year. When the bulbs are near completion, the foliage will begin to decay at the tips, and the spikes appear near the bottom of the pseudo-bulb. To keep the plants tidy, the leaves may be trimmed with a pair of scissors, but this is not necessary, only for the sake of appearance. The Best Calanthes. — Hybrids play an im- portant part, and the most popular of all is the rosy pink C. Veitchii. Then we have the pure white Harrisii, Oakwood Ruby, Baron Schroder and others, while the principal species are rubens, rosea, and vestita with its numerous varieties, the best being luteo-oculata, Regnieri, rubro- oculata and Tumeri. Where 4 late-flowering a favourite, for those who have once had it in their gardens look for the fragrant flowers in midwinter as eagerly as others look for the opening of the first Snowdrop in sprmg. Occasionally one hears of complaints about the paucity of flowers. This may be due to very youthful plants or im- proper priming. Obviously it would be a mis- take to prune in autumn, for this would mean the removal of flowering wood. The correct time to prune is after flowering, and just as the young leaves are about to develop. The flowering wood may then be cut away, or at least very much reduced, to make room for new growth, the flowers being borne on the wood made the previous season. The variety grandiflora is an improvement on the species, the flowers being larger and more open, but it is scarcely as hardy. It does well on a south or west wall, whereas the species appears quite F I were asked to give the names of a dozen first-class herbaceous plants, I should certainly in- clude the Caucasian Scabious, despite the knowledge that there are those who, gardening vntb hardy plants alone, say they are unable to cultivate it. That con- dition of things is, I fear, due to the belief that it is only neces- sary to plant it in ordinary garden soils and expect the finest results. That is a mistake at the outset. As a matter of fact, this particular species would appear to abhor heavy retentive soils, though quite at home in some of the stronger loams where these are of a sandy nature and well drained. At the same time, an even greater measure of success follows its cultivation in light and warm soils, and it offers no objection to those largely composed of vege- table matter, or others of a peaty nature. In a word, therefore, the plant may be said to flourish in light, well-drained soils in preference to all others. If such as these are at planting-time enriched by the addition of a good layer of cow- manure a few inches below the base of the plants, so much the better. In such circumstances the seedling plant will make fine tufts in the course of a season, and in turn vield in the followng year a rich luirvcsl January 31, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 59 of flowers of which any hardy plant grower would feel justly proud. In point of colour beauty and refinement the Caucasian Scabious is one of the indispensables, one that no good garden should be without ; hence it is suggested that the soil be made to suit the plant. The delicate lavender blue of its flowers is quite a rarity in the garden at any season, and few are more highly prized in the cut state. '.The florist-decorator thinks well of it, and it is alike as valuable to the exhibitor of hardy flowers as for the decoration of the border at home. So much, then, in justifi- cation of my opening statement, and a plant possessing the good attributes named merit? not merely good cultivation, but specialisation, should occasion arise. Raising from Seeds. — Apart from the important question of soil, that of raising the plant periodically from seeds merits close attention, for more than one reason. On light and warm soils this handsome Scabious is usually a good perennial. On heavy soils it is not so. Then, again, because of its abundant and profuse flowering, the stools become exhausted ; hence the need for replacing them with others of a more youthful and vigorous nature. Happily, seeds are abundant and cheap, and, vegetating quickly and with com- parative certainty, afford the readiest means of propagation to amateur and professional alike. The seeds should be sown pre- ferably during the autumn or winter months, so that, vegetating in the earliest days of spring, there is still a full season ahead for the plants to make good growth. These would be best in a cold frame. Seeds sown in February or later should be given greenhouse treatment, a tempera- ture of about 50° being ample. In either case the seedlings should be potted off singly when large enough to handle and grown without a check from the start, so as to be ready for their permanent quarters in the open ground early in May. Varieties. — Though variations naturally occur when raising plants from seeds, the species has not been prolific of good or distinct forms, though such names as superba, atrocaerulea, perfect a and others have been catalogued. A good white variety received an award of merit so long ago as 1895, an honour never granted to the typical kind. The white is not pure, however, and there is abundant room for another of more glistening purity. The most recent addition — it is an acquisition as well as a novelty — is that depicted in the coloured plate presented with this issue. This originated with Messrs. James Cocker and Sons, Aberdeen, and when exhibited by them in August last as Scabiosa caucasica magnifica (Cocker's Variety) gained an award of merit from the Royal Horticultural Society. It is the finest I have seen, the flowers larger and of a deeper lavender blue than the original. The stock at present is limited, and as in common with such plants the seedlings do not come absolutely true, propagation has to be effected by division — a rather slow method. E. H. Jenkins.'! THE HERBACEOUS OR MIXED BORDER. HOW TO MAKE AND MAINTAIN IT. Arrangement of Plants. — I wonder if there ever has been a border so perfectly arranged as to give complete satisfaction ! The spotty A SPRAY OF THE WINTER SWEET (CHIMONANTHUS FRAGRANS GRANDIFLORA), a hardy shrub that FLOWERS IN MIDWINTER. border, consisting of single plants disposed accord- ing to relative heights and colour ; the triplet border, in which all, or nearly all, of the plants are arranged in threes ; the chess border, with its divisions severely four-sided, with one kind of plant in each division ; and the higgledy- piggledy one so prominent in published schemes of planting, with its impossible corners protruding into other equally impossible divisions, the pre- vailing objective being a strildng dissimilarity of form and filled with plants as dissimilar as possible. Each and every one of these has its faults. And, really, though \vf- may struggle to attain perfection, it is best to assmre ourselves that in the production of herbaceous borders it is a thing unattainable. Were we to hit on an arrangement perfect in every respect, there an so many vicissi- tudes in front, from the young gardener's clumsy boot to the changeableness of omr climate, that we can never hope to travel an undeviating road to success. Personally, I do not like any of the styles here noted. Nor do I Care to stereotype any arrangement, but, on the contrary, like to vary the planting and, to some extent, the plants every year. It is true that the same flowers never tire the lover of flowers ; but fashion must be consulted, and fashion is largely a gradation of changes. At the same time, I deprecate copying the plant- ing of herbaceous borders, so largely the custom of to-day. No one can have a fresh garden whose schemes are the outcome of what has already been pro- duced in other gardens, and it is to be preferred to retain the individuality of one's own garden, though at the expense of per- haps a short-lived brilliance, rather than have it a bad second to another. The person who thinks out schemes for himself is the one who sooner or later will be among the copied. In Even a Narrow Border ii is not essential to have com- parative uniformity of height and evenness of slope. In a wide border it is important that these should not occur. Not only should the best -plants be selected, but they should also be arranged so as to provide the best effects they ■ are capable of giving. Thus we would mass certain plants, e.g., Rudbeckia speciosa, Phloxes, Eupatorium Fraseri, Pentstemon^ Southgate Gem and others, Polygonum affine and certain of the Asters. Some we would rnass and also employ singly or in close clumps. Such are Hollyhocks, Liliums tigrinum, candidum, ' Martagon, &c.. Gladioli, Aconitum autum- nale, A. Wilsonii, Montbretias and Anemone japonica, and there are a number which perhaps always should be graded singly — Agapanthus umbellatus, Statice latifolia, Eryngiums generally, Francoa ramosa, Astilbes and Delphiniums. Very important, too, are the parts of the border to which the various plants are A handsome-habited plant should never, or hardly ever, be put where any part of it is hidden by another and less attractive plant. Hence in the front of the border should be found LiUvmis, Carnations, Agapanthus and such like. Hollyhocks, as a rule, look best against a back- ground, but care must be taken that the plants in front are not so tall as to obscure the charm of their individuality. Galtonia candicans is usually best placed behind plants tall enough to cover the foliage, which towards autumn becomes unsightly, the spikes only being seen. To me it is a serious drawback to gloriously coloured apportioned. 60 THE GARDEN. [January 31, 1914. arrangements that this important feature of form is so little, if at all, considered, the mere general height of plants being enough to decide what part of the border they shall occupy. Those who may cherish fears as to the general effect of a border not by any means homogeneous in height may dismiss them, because a border fairly apportioned with tall plants towards the back gives quite as good an effect, even though broken in several places by dwarfer plants, as one in which a similarity of height is maintained throughout. And that border affords great scope for particular effects. Thus there may be a hold mass of Holly- hocks well to the back, on one side supported with tall plants, while, on the other, groupings of low-growing plants from front to back afford a clear view of these stately flowers, and there is the added interest of variety in height and form to the good. The advantage of A Wide Border is chiefly on account of the variety in arrangement of this kind, of which there is practically no end, because, reverting to the above instance, there may be an assortment of plants of various height, such as Campanula decline to break away from hard lines and e qui - dis - tances, and every new hand has to be careful !>■ broken in before t h c slightly natural way of arranging is acquired. It is usually along the front edge that the out- come of the math e m ati- cally minded planter is most evi- denced, though the varying by a few inches makes y£uy hejdce f?. iii LJ EfiD or eo!fD£R '^AfiOS all the difference. Another e\TLl to be avoided in planting is the setting of front plants too far METHOD OF ARRANGING PLANTS. The circles are pink and cream Holli/?iOcks, and the crosses Francca ramosa. £DGf AN EFFECTIVE WAY TO GROUP GLADIOLI, USING A CARPETING PLANT TO COVER BARE SPACES. pyramidalis widely spaced, with dwarfer plants carpeting the ground. The illustration shows how to arrange Gladioli near the edge or front of a border with carpeting vegetation among them, such as Viola, Cornflower, or other suitable plant. Nor need there be too close adherence to the well-trod path of clumps of one species or variety of plants, a very nice by-path to loiter in occasionally being a mixed planting in carefully selected parts. It is perfectly wonderful, not- withstanding the many well-considered notes we have all read on colour grouping — good, bad, and indifferent — how plants themselves possessed of very inappropriate colours yet combine to give a happy whole. One of my own Colour Combinations of the past year commenced with sulphur Montbretia and lilac Phlox, and passed on to a broad groundwork of Verbena, dwarf pink Chrysanthemum, lemon African Marigold, with taller plants dotted among them of Gladiolus America, Francoa ramosa. Phlox paniculata alba, P. Coquelicot, a few Asters and single Hollyhocks, and in front Agapanthus, white and blue. Here in the space of a few yards run is quite a constellation of floral stars, ranged apart from all the rest of the border, though forming at the same time an integral part of it. One of the most di£5cult things in the arrange- ment of plants is the planting. Workmen invariably back. Whatever the edging to the border may be, the front plant should touch it. This, of course, with som*" things entails the pruning of en- croaching shoots, &c. ; but that is infinitely to be preferred to the bare and ugly soil that is the con- comitant of a space left between the verge and the plants. Similarly, when a very tall plant is arranged behind a dwarf one, the former should be planted so that the two touch, and it is always a good rule in planting to set close those parts that would appear bare, though further back and unexposed to view there is no occasion to be so particular. To conclude this instalment, it may be noted that many Early Flowering Bulbous Plants besides the well-known Scillas, Winter Aconites, Iris reticu- lata, &c., which grow through low carpets of vegetation, may be arranged all over the borders mthout being very particular whether or no they may be under some deciduous fibrous-rooted plant. Tulips are rather diflSdent of so close relations, hut Narcissi, Fritillarias and English Irises do not mind a bit. In like manner Colchi- cums grow through other plants in autumn, and even the fragile-looking Crocuses, of which the common C. speciosus is perhaps the most engaging, do likewise. Individual taste must, of course, be considered in these, and, indeed, in all arrangements. R. P. Brotherstok. Tyninghame, Prcstonkirk, N.B. {To be concluded.) J X u o ^ 7 y7?/?z35 SKETCH SHOWING COMPARATIVE DISTANCES TO PLANT. 1 Eetianlhus Miss Mellish ; 2, Phlol rianiculata (O) and Jconittim japmurtim or A. Wilsonii (X) ; 3, Solidaijo canadensis ; 4. Holh/hork Rose Queen (cross in circle) and salmon rose Larkspur (X) ,■ &. deep blue Larkspur, extending into No. 1 ; 6, Lohelia caidinalis ; 7, Chn/santhemum maximum Kinq Edward VII.; 8, Aster acns ; 9, Antirrhinum Golden Chamois; 10. Aster I'luto ; 11, Phlox Elizabeth V ampbM ; 12, Helenium fieandi- cephalum cupreum ; 13. Campanula piiramidalis alba and blue Coniflowe.r ; 14, jiurple East Lothian Slock; 15, Anemone japonica Prolusion; 16. Gladiolus Baron -J . Hulot (01 and a carpet of Nepeta Mussinii; 17. Aslfr Linosi/ris ; 18, Monthretia Vulean. jANtJARY 31, 1914.] THE GARDEN- ei , ■,:. - ■•^^.■■■■~.,.-.v». .»^:-.j— ..^.- ■■ GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. TREES AND SHRUBS FOR WIND SCREENS. SHELTER in a garden is one of the secrets of success with many plants. Almost the first thing to do when making a garden in a windy or exposed place is to plant trees and shrubs to shelter it. The best evergreen tree for bleak posi- tions is the Austrian Pine (Pinus Laricio austriaca). To make a screen at once, plant 6 feet apart now, and then, when the trees touch, every alternate one must be cut out, leaving them 12 feet apart. Sometimes it is necessary to plant two or three rows. These may be. all Austrian Pines ; a fast- growing Poplar may be used, or Spruce and Larch. The Poplar is one of the quickest-growing and one of the most valuable screen trees, thriving well in the smoky atmosphere of our towns and suburbs. The Canadian Poplar ' (Populus canadensis) is very fast-growing, but, being rather spreading in habit, can only be planted where ample space exists, though it will stand a little pruning. When a screen is required quickly, and one which will not shade the surrounding ground too much with its branches, there is nothing to equal one of the fastigiate growing Poplars, Populus alba pyra- midalis (P. bolleana) or the Lombardy Poplar (P. nigra pyramidalis), the former for preference. The illustration depicts a row of P. bolleana planted three years ago as a screen. The average height of the trees was then 8 feet. With one or two exceptions they are now 18 feet to 20 feet high, a good illustration of the rapid growth of this attractive and desirable tree. It is readily pro- pagated from cuttuigs ; those from which the trees in the accompanying illustration were grown were inserted six years ago last November. The distance apart for planting varies ; 10 feet from tree to tree is a suitable distance, but an immediate effect may be secured by planting at half this distance, this amounting at once to practically a hedge. The Poplar is one of the easiest trees to transplant successfully ; trees 10 feet or 12 feet high move with seldom a failure. The Aucuba, Laurel, Berberis stenophylla and B. Darwinii are useful evergreen shrubs to plant for shelter. Equal to these, or even better when the soil is suitable, is the common piurple Rhododendron (R. ponticum). Screens of trees in Town and Suburban Gardens are very valuable. Une of the drawbacks and evils of building houses so closely is that the gardens are so much over- looked, making secluded nooks few and far between. This robs a garden of half of its pleasure. In some gardens old trees were left standing when the houses were built ; in others, young trees have grown up since. One almost invariably finds the shade and shelter of trees very much appreciated and valued by the owners. Sometimes there is one disadvantage, and that is, when the tree or trees are in such a position, while they seclude portions of the garden from the surrounding houses, they also render a part of it useless for flowers. When planting trees, especially in small gardens, this point must be considered. For this reason one or other of the fastigiate Poplars should receive consideration, as, while they form a splendid scre,en, only a comparatively small light space is occupied by them. As already stated, they grow quickly. and will thrive in almost any kind of soil, and in an atmosphere that would be fatal to many kinds of evergreen trees. A. O. THE CULTIVATION OF FIGS. The Fig as a tree is easily grown. In many instances, however, the inexperienced cultivator fails to secure a crop of fruits on the trees. Although very small trees usually possess many roots, a fair proportion being fibrous, such specimens will not mature fruit until the new soil has become thoroughly permeated with roots, and, moreover, it is essential to success that the rooting medium be a very firm one. Unlimited rooting space means much growth and few fruits. Amateurs and others who possess done while the fruits are swelling. Adnut air freely in fine weather. Trees in the Open Air. — Confine the roots to a small space — in a brick pit 18 inches wide, 15 inches deep and 3 feet long. This space will sufiice for a tree for many years. Use a similar compost to that before advised, and do not over- prune. Black Ischia and Brown Turkey are two fine varieties. Shamrock. WHAT TO DO WITH GARDEN REFUSE. The very best method of turning garden refuse to account is to bum it and apply the re- sultant ashes to the soil as manure. Experi- ments conducted for fourteen consecutive years YOUNG, ERECT-GROWING POPLARS PLANTED AS A WIND SCREEN. FROM CUTTINGS PLANTED SIX YEARS AGO, THESE WERE RAISED small glasshouses may grow Figs in pots as well as in the garden. The trees would only remain in the house a few months to yield fruits before those in the open air matured theirs ; then they must be placed outside, but be carefully attended to. If slightly forced in the first instance, two crops may be grown on the same trees in one year. Young Trees in Pots. — I will very briefly describe how these should be treated. Repot them in pots large enough to contain their roots and about as large a bulk of soil. Have clean pots and crocks to ensure good drainage ; the compost must consist of fibrous loam three parts, and one part brick and mortar rubble. To a bushel of the combined parts add a 5-iuch potful of bone-meal. Trees that have been so potted for one year at least and liecome established in the pots should be subjected to a forcing tempera- ture ; not recently potted ones. Manure is not necessary in the compost, as all feeding should be at the Worcestershire Experimental Gardens, Droitwich, have proved that burnt garden refuse is a very valuable manure, so much so that the latest report says " That decayed and burned refuse of the garden when used alone on the same ground for fourteen consecutive years is a valuable source of plant food which gives good results about equal to those obtained from an application of stable manure at the rate of t6 tons per acre to the same crops under equal conditions in all other respects." The above extract shows that the gardener who takes care of his refuse is to some extent indepen- dent of stable manure. By burning, old stalks, prunings and similar refuse can be turned into a good fertiliser, and burning, it should be remem- bered, is definitely destructive of whatever garden pests may chance to be met with upon and about the refuse. A comer of the garden, screened by a rustic fence with climbers up it, will generally pro- vide a hiding-place for the refuse heap. J. T. B. 62 THE GARDEN. [January 31, 1914- GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR Melons.- SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. -It is better practice to plant the first batch of Melons directly from the small pots in which they were raised than to pot them mto larger pots and plant at a later date; therefore a hot-bed should be made up and the soil placed m position a few days before the plants are ready to put out, for if once they are allowed to become stunted, the prospect of a successful crop will be much reduced, llelons succeed best in rich, turfy loam, into which a small quantity of old lime rubble may be mixed. The depth of soil should not be less than lo inches, and must be made firm by ramming after it has become warmed through, .\nother sowing should be made directly each batch of plants is put out if an unbroken supply is desired, and at least two varieties be planted in each house with a view to succession. Eminence and Hero of Lockinge are well worth growing. The Propagation of Vines.— This is an easy matter, providing a warm pit or house is available for the purpose. The Vme eyes should be inserted in small pots of sandy loam and placed over a gentle hot-bed. They will soon start, and when two or three leaves are formed thev should be carefully potted into 5-inch pots. The most suitable soil is turfy loam, a small quantity of old lime rubble, and a little bone- meal, .-^fter potting, the plants may be placed over a gentle hot-bed until well rooted, when they must be potted and kept growing in a warm, moist atmosphere. The compost for the final potting should be of a rougher nature, and must be made moderately firm. The temperature of the. house may range from 70° at night to 85° by day with sun -heat. Plants Under Glass. The Fernery. — Now that the majority of Ferns are at rest, it is advisable to pot the plants as soon as possible. The compost may consist of turfy loam and peat in equal parts, with sufficient sand and fine broken crocks to keep it in a porous con- dition. The Bougainvillea. — This plant succeeds better on the roof of an intermediate house than in a warm stove. Here at Frogmcre it is trained to the rafters of a cool show house, and given ample space for the development of its drooping flowering sprays. It produces a grand effect throughout the season. The Bougainvillea does not require a long period of rest, and may be pruned back to the leaduig stems as soon as possible, leaving sufficient well-ripened shoots to cover the wires or extend the plant. Plants in pots may also be pruned and placed in an intermediate house until growth commences, when they may be carefully potted and placed in a temperature of 65°, where the syringe may be freely used during bright weather. Cyclamens. — The most forward plants may now receive a light top-dressing of Clay's Fertilizer about once a week. Keep them near the roof glass in a temperature of 55° until they are well in flower. Seedlings raised in September and wintered in pans may now be potted in small, clean pots, and placed.™ a bed of ashes quite near the glass. Syringe them twice daily, and keep a sharp look-out for green fly, %vhich will soon cripple the plants if not destroyed. Seeds may also be sown now to produce .plants for flowering next season. The Flower Garden. Dahlias. — Now is the time to place Dahlia tubers in gentle heat for the purpose of increasing the stock of any particular variety. A pit with a temperature of 60° will suit them well. When the young shoots begin to grow, they should be fuUv exposed to the light to promote sturdy growth. When they are about four inches long, they should be renioved from the tubers with a sharp knife, and inserted in small, clean pots of sandy soil which has been passed through a fine sieve. The pots may then be plmiged in a bottcm- heat of 80° and kept close until roots are produced, after which they should be gradually exposed to light and air, and potted into 5-inch pots as soon as readv. Dahlias may also be raised from seed, which should be sown in February. If potted up as soon as ready, they should produce an abimdance of flowers from July onward. Sweet Peas.— Some of the best varieties should be sown in small pots at once for flowering in June. Only a few seeds should be placed in each pot. It is advisable to germinate the seeds in gentle heat but as soon as the seedlings are through the surface they should be kept quite close to the roof glass and nothing more than protection from frost attempted. The ground should be trenched, and a liberal supply of good farmyard manure mixed with the soil. The Kitchen Garden. Peas. — A sowing of round-seeded Peas may be made now without fear cf the weather injuring either seeds or plants, providing a sheltered position is chosen for the purpose. A warm south border, which has been trenched and manured in the autumn, will suit them well. The Pilot is one of the best for this purpose, being very hardy and the quality first class. Parsnips. — The ground for this crop should be got ready as soon as possible. When dr;' enough to crumble under the foot, the drills should be drawn 18 inches apart and the seed sown carefully, selecting a quiet morning for the purpose. Carrots.— A small sowing of Early Gem Carrots mav be made on a warm border as soon as the soil is in a fit condition. Protection from frost may be afforded by a light sprinkling of dry Fern, if necessary. Shallots may now be planted in shallow drills I foot apart. Jerusalem Artichokes.— if not already done, this crop should be lifted as soon as possible. The largest tubers may be placed in a stove, and the medium-sized ones selected for planting. This work may also be done at once. Cabbage, Brussels Sprouts, Lettuce and Cauliflowers should be so\™ as soon as possible. If onlv a small supplv is necessary, the seeds may be sown in boxes and placed in a slightly heated pit, or they may be sown in a cold pit, providing the soii is placed in the pit for the purpose. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Jerusalem Artichokes may now be planted 1 most places, provided the ground is at all suitable. In a great many gardens this crop receives but scant attention, and, like the herb border, anywhere seems good enough for the plants. Yet what a difference there is when they are well cultivated. If the ground has not been previously prepared, planting may be done as the digging proceeds. It will be better to defer planting the Chinese varietv, Stachys tuberifera, till some time in March. To grow it well in the North, it requires to be planted in light soil on a warm border. Parsnips may now be sown where one can get the soil into working order, but defer sow- ing should the soil be at all wet. It is a good plan to fork over the soil in the morning and sow in the afternoon. Where Parsnips are required for exhibition purposes, the sowing may be done any time, provided the soil has been prepared beforehand for filling up the holes. Should severe weather set in after sowing, the seed may be protected by small pieces of slate. Broccoli, in very cold districts, will require some protection. There are a great many ways of doing this, and all more or less good. The method I find most effectual is to use drv- leaves placed along the rows, as it is the stalk that suffers from damp and cold. Celery will also require protecting at this season ; and for those who do not have a supply of boards, a very good substitute will be found in ordinary stable litter. Lettuces. — .-\. small sowing of Lettuces, such as Sutton's Nonsuch, may be made for growing on in frames. They will be greatlv relished m spring, when salads are so scarce Radishes. — Continue to make a small sowing of Radishes, as, like Lettuces, they are more ap- preciated in the spring than when one has a surfeit of them. Winter Spinach. — This Spinach will be greatly assisted by running the hoe between the rows frequently and giving a slight dressing of sulphate of ammr>nia. The Flower Garden. Lobelias. — Where it is intended to raise Lobelias from seed, no time should be lost in sowing, and, as it usually germinates like grass, sow sparingly. Plants that have been wintered in a cool house and are intended for stock purposes should be introduced into heat, so that cuttings may be secured as soon as possible. Heliotrope. — Where large quantities of this useful bedding plant are required, propagation should start forthwith, so that the earlier-rooted cuttings can be topped and struck later. Alyssum. — The variegated form of .Alyssum is again coming into favour, and as it does not root as readily as one would wish, no time should be lost in getting the stock plants into congenial quarters. Box Edging. — Where it is intended to make up blanks or replant Box edges, the present is a very suitable time for this work. Preserve all the'trimmings that would be suitable for cuttings, and make up a few lines for future use. Epilobium rosmarinifolium is a charming plant for a marshy spot in the flower garden. It grows about two and a-half feet high, is compact in habit, and does not ramble so much as E. angustifolium. Senecio Wilsonianus, wit"h its Eremums-like flowers, is also a grand acquisition for such places. Polygonum oxyphyllum, with its snow white plumes of fragrant flowers, should also be included. No collection of bog plants should be without these three. Gilia coronopifolia.— Many gardeners fail to flower this handsome annual by being too late in sowing. To have it in flower in late summer, the seed should be so\ni at once. Calceolarias. — Continue to exercise the greatest precaution in admitting air to Calceolarias after a spell of hard frost. I have seen himdreds go off suddenly through carelessness in opening the lights too freely, and thus giving the young plants a severe check- Hardy Fruit. Apricots.— .\11 pruning and tying should now be completed, as in sheltered spots they will soon show flower. If they have not been protected by netting or other material, this should be done at once. A good herring-net, doubled, is as good a protection as any, and this may be kept off the trees with forked sticks placed at intervals along the wall. Gooseberries. — These may be syringed now with a g id winter wash or Quassia Extract. This will go a long wav towards keeping them clean and acting as a preventive of caterpillar. Indeed, where the plantation is not over-large, it will pay to go over them frequently, using an Abol syringe. Plants Under Glass. Gloxinias that have been stored during winter may now be gone over and carefully examined for rot. Turn them out of their pots, and place the bulbs in boxes among some leaf-mould. Put them in a warm house, potting them as growth advances. Caladiums.— .Almost the same treatment applies to Caladiums, only they will require a little more liberal treatment. Malmaison Carnations in vinch pots will now be ready for potting in 6-inch pots, provided the soil hasbeen prepared as advised last week. Pot fairly firmly and water sparingly ; indeed, they should not require water for some days. Cuttings of the Perpetual varieties, rooted about the New Year, should now be readv for potting on singly. They'ought to be handled v'erv carefully and placed on a shelf near the glass. Those rooted earlier may now be pinched well back, which will lay the' foundation for a good sturdy plant. John Hxghgate. (Head-gardener to the Mnrquis .if Linlithgow.) Hopelouii Gardens, South Qunfuslt-iry, N B. January 31, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 63 IS THE DAFFODIL A FLORIST'S FLOWER? "YES" AND "NO." SOMERSET," in his very interesting articles on " Wtiat is a Florist's Flower ? " in The Garden for Sep- tember 13 and 20, 1913, did " Dafiodils " and its author well. I sincerely thank him. It is pleasant to feel that my effort has met with a Daffodil-lover's approval, for such I feelmy unknown friend must be. As I said in my recent notes, my reply has been simmering. So much is in the pan that if it were all poured out it would fill a whole number of The Garden. A good job it did not, for I must confess I am a florist. In one way we all are. " Somerset " himself is one, else why does he relegate .that most charming Santa Maria to the world of poor things. More than once, too, after having heard Mr. Reginald Farrer discourse, as only he can do, on the jollinesses and the good formnesses of some Saxifrage or other alpine, have I chimed in, " Yes, all right ; you are getting on. Fancy not being contented with what Nature first gave you. You really are, after all, a florist in disguise." Some time ago I was an onlooker at a scientific committee meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society, when I heard Sir Harry Veitch explain how John Heal had first made a new race of winter-flowering Begonias and then improved it. " Floristy " again. I often think the larger half of mankind are Jesuits at heart, but they do not like to be told so. I feel certain three-quarters of the gardeners of the world, if not seven-eighths, are florists in the sense that they attach great importance to form, size and substance, and almost invariably like a well-filled-up flower to one more scantily endowed. Maximus is preferred to Santa Maria by " Somer- set." Probably any jury of twelve would give as their verdict, " So say all of us." A florist, then, in his childhood state is one who is not content with all that Nature has given him. He wishes to change and improve, he will tell you, the vege- table kingdom. He would like to make fruit more luscious and sweet, and flowers more attrac- tive, and if the true spirit is in liim, this would be one of his works of maturer years. In our own Daffodil world, what else have Engleheart, the WUliamses, Crosfield, Wilson, Brodie of Brodie, Gore-Booth and the whole company of hybridisers been trying to do but to improve the flower ? Gentlemen, we are all florists. If so, is not our flower a florist's flower ? One day last summer I was about to be taken over an interesting garden in Kent by its owner and a friend. By way of letting me down lightly and so that I might not be disappointed with the show, one of them said, " Oh, I know you are an arch-florist." I took it as a compli- ment, for the most arch-florist I ever knew was old James Douglas, and a more charming and gentler-mannered man I have never met. One of the red-letter days of my florist's life is May 5, 1909, the day I spent with him at Great Bookham in the midst of his Auriculas. One of my most cherished books is his " Hardy Florists' Flowers," which he gave me as a memento of the day. No one who has read Homer's touching Preface to this little book can ever belittle them again : " A touching history if it could be written would be the nurture and ministry of florist flowers. They have been the delight of many a man in whom the love of Nature was inborn and inextinguishable, but whose means were very spare, whose leistire time was very scant, and whose advantages in pure air and light and garden space were very poor and cramped. . . . Yet did the Spring smile on him in his Polyanthuses and Ain"iciflas and Pansies, and Summer visit him in the bloom of his Tulips, Pinks, Ranunculuses, Carnations and Picotees. In one or more of these, his love of Nature foimd expression, and enough to live upon." The foregoing are words pregnant with meaning. The Daffodil has had a different upbrmging. It has not had to go through the struggling times of the Auricula or the Pink. It has never been a flower of the little back garden or small hired plot ; but, nevertheless, there is in the Daffodil-grower the same spirit and the same hmnan nature as in the more humble cultivator of the Pink and the Pansy, and I feel confident that the one great stimulus that has encouraged and still encourages them all in their work is the stimulus of the show. It is the far-off ideal which must never become a reality wiiich lures them on. I quite recognise the possibility of that ideal being a wrong one, but I do say there must be one, otherwise why is not Mme. Plemp the equal of Duke of Bedford, and Duchess of Brabant of Evangeline, and omatus of Tennyson ? Otherwise, why not pick up any Dick, Tom or Harry to judge ? Why was I paid to go all the way to Barnstaple last spring to judge the Devon exhibits ? Why did not the committee save a big railway fare and get some neighbouring head-gardener to award the prizes ? Why ? Because the Daffodil is a florist's flower ; because, already young as it is, there have grown up certain standards of excellence which I as an expert know and recognise, and according to which X feel botmd to judge, and which the ordinary non-specialist will not know. I do not think " Somerset " and I are very far off when we have eacli of us scratched the other deep enough. One question to him to clinch my argument and to end Part I. Would he prefer the head- gardener at the nearest big place to where he lives to judge a collection of his at a show, or, let us say, Mr. P. D. Williams ? Joseph Jacob. (To be continued.) Balsam is Impatiens. A popular strain is called the Camellia-flowered. || " I do not rule unless I am ruled " is the motto upon a sundial in Upping- ham. U Sir Uvedale Price, who died in 1829, had great taste in laying out gardens. He wrote a celebrated essay on the " Picturesque " in 1794- '* See Bacon's " Sylva Sylvarum " under Century V. In the fifth edition, page loi, sympathy and antipathy in plants are discussed. RESULT OF ACROSTIC No. 7. In this acrostic it was possible to get nine marks, one for each correct " first " and " last," and one for each correct light. The following marks have been awarded : Nine marks. — " Rustic," Wm. Bond, " Bow," " Westbank," " Boarsvale," " Miller " and " Hero." Eight marks. — " Ping," " Jan," " M. M.," G. D. Kmg, ■' White Lady," " Elm," " St. Kevins " and " Nautilus." Seven marks. — R. Chapman, M. Browne, ■• Penwame," " Shamrock," Wm. Slorombe and Ernest Ballard. Six marks. — " W. J. W.." " Brixtoniau " and " Rusticus." Five marks, — " Tempus Fugit." Four marks. — N. G. Hadden. Two marks. — " Bees Whig." GARDENING ACROSTICS. SOLUTION AND NOTES OF ACROSTIC No. 7. C. CRISPA— PARSLEY. » I. C OWSLI P t 2. C OLUMELL A t 3- R ED SpIDE R § 4- I MPATIEN S II 5- S UN DiA L 1[ 6. P ICTURESQU E »» 7. A NTIPATH Y TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. FLOWER GARDEN. Cryptogramme crispa (syn. Allosorus crispus) is the well-known Parsley Fern which grows among dibris on many British mountains. It gets its popular name from its resemblance to the familiar Parsley of our kitchen gardens. — See Druery's " British Ferns." * Cowslip balls and Cowslip wine are both made from the Cow- slip of our meadows, t Columella, who lived about a.d. 50, wrote upon agriculture and gar- dening. He wrote twelve books, " De le rustica," and one uppu trees, " De arboribus." % The red spider revels in a dry atmosphere and dislikes damp. § The generic name of the garden PLANTS FOR JAPANESE GARDEN (M. H ) — Fre quently where the garden is .small, it is not conflned to Japanese plants entirely, but a variety of hardy Heaths and Azaleas are made use of as carpeters for Lilies and other plants. In this way Azalea moUis In variety is freely used, also Ledum palustre, Kalmias and the like. Of hardy Heaths you might use the best varieties of Erica cinerea atropurpurea, coceiuea, rosea and astrosau"uinea E. carnea (Winter Heath), E. codonodes and E. medi- terranea hybrlda would be worth growing, too, as they are among the most valuable. Any of the varieties of Li'lium speciosum, L. longiflorum, L. elegans and L. tigriuum could be associated with these plants, while Primulas japouica and pulverulenta would be quite at home in wet or damp places. In addition. Iris Isevigata should be made much of ; there are endless varieties, and no such garden would be complete ^rithout them. Japanese Maples and small-growing Bamboos are among other good things. Just what should be planted, and where, depends very much on the size of the garden and how it is laid out. CHRISTMAS ROSES NOT FLOWERING (A. Y. P.).-~ If after flowering last spring you really did cover the plants with manure, you have probably poisoned them for the time being, and it will take them some time to recover. The entire absence of new leafage during 1913 shows that there is something radically wrong with them; as during that time they would be in a state of decline. This leaflessness, whatever the cause, is doubtless responsible for all shortcomings, the plants having sultered a loss of root fibres in equal proportion. ' The soil cannot be blamed , seeing the plants have succeeded so well hitherto. .AH you can do now is to place a handlight over the clumps to encourage the development of the flowers, and, these over, Ughtly fork about the plants and work into the soil a dressing of Ume, which mil assist to neutralise the effects of the manure. In all probability there will be but a meagre leaf development this year, as a direct result of the debilitated condition of the plants, and, if so, your remedy mil be Ufting, dividing and replanting in August ne.xt. TREES AND SHRUBS. FLOWERING SHRUBS FOR EFFECT (C. T.).— The follOTOng shrubs are suitable for your purpose. Back row: Lilac de Louis Spteth, L. Marie Legraye, Berberis stenophylla, Rilies sanguineum atrosangiuneum, Laurus- tlnus. Viburnum Opulus sterile, Forsythia suspensa, Cotoneaster Simonsu, Biervllla Abel CarriSre and Pblla- delphus coronarius. The other row may consist of Daphne Mezereuin, Spiraea arguta, S. .Anthony Waterer Diervilla F.va Kathke, Cotoneaster horizontalis, Phila- delphus Lemoinei erectus, Hypericum patulum Henryi, Pruuus japnnica flore pleno, Keiria japonica flore pleno, lierberis walUchiana, B. AqiufoUum, and silver and golden variegated Tree Ivies. Do not place the plants very close together, for they will grow quickly. Should the ground appear bare the flrst season, a few annuals may be planted in the more open spaces. 64 THE GARDEN. [January 31, 1914. THE GREENHOUSE. ADVICE CONCERNING VARIOUS PLANTS (A Reader). —in In order to irow tho very larse heads of Uydranueas, cuttm-'S should be taken in July of the stronsest terminal shoots; such as you may [eel sure «111 Bower *■!« M.ow-ins season. Wlien rooted, they should be shifted into 4-inch pots and gTO^™ in a frame. The original leaves should drop otf in tlie course of the mnter. In the month ot Feliruary the plants should be sliifted Into their flowerinu pots, 5 inches cr 6 inches in diameter, accordinir to their vigour. A cood compost, mainly oonsistins of loam and thoroughly decayed manure with a little ffnd' jvill suit them well. If tliere is no manure available, leaf-mould may he substituted, giving the plants stimulants later on. After potting, the plants must have a 20"^ Posl''™ '" the greenhouse. The small buds are of little account and may be taken oft or left on as you think nt. (2) A. you require your Mar«chal Niel Rose in early spring, we should not prune it in any way now except ^o jemme any weak and exhausted shoots. Under the conditions named, any pruning required had, we think, best be done after flowering. (3) It is very probable that .the rea on of the non- flowering of your Passion Flower is that tjie roots have an unlimited run, hence the strong growth, while at the same time they are very likely in an unsuitable soil The plant should certainly be kept tree from suckers We' should certainly advise you not to prune the plant now, but to wait until the end of the season, as it may possibly Hower during the coming summer The whitL markin-s on the leaves we do not imderstand, but if jou send us a few leaves we can, perhaps, help you in the matter (4) Good plants of the two species of Asparagus named bv vou can be obtained from seed in about eighteen months, provided (and this is an important item) the conditions are favourable for their quick development. In their earUer stages thev are far better siuted in a stove tempera- ture than in a greenhouse. If the plants of A. pluniosus referred to by you are the result of seed so^vn last year, the pots— .5-inch and 6-inch— are much too large for them at present. (5) All the pruning Lapagerias need is to cut out any weak and exhausted shoots, it necessary, to prevent overcrowding. The strong shoots pushed up from the base must not be interfered with in any way, except to secure them as they lengthen, in order that no harm comes to the succulent point. MISCELLANEOUS. GRUBS IN MANURE (P. M- H.).— The grubs and beetles are those common in manure, on parts of whicn they feed. They arc not likely to be harmful to plants. CHARCOAL AS MANURE (W. R. f.).— Charcoal is of sli-ht value as a manure. Its main use in tlie garden is to mix wnth the potting soil for plants which have to stay Ion" in their pots, in order to keep the soil open and to absorb vegetable acids, which would tend to make the soil sour Just as one chars wood posts to check decay, so charcoal decays but slowly, and parts with equal slowness with any mineral salts that would be of value to the soil. SOOT AS MANURE (Aniielu).—Yoa may use soot direct from the chunney for making soot-water. In buyin" soot it should be remembered that the Ughter it IS in bulk, the better, for that is an indication ot purity. Its composition varies, but tho average value of the nitrogen in it (the only important constituent) is 6d a bushel. One should expect four bushels to weigli , a hundredweight, and at that rate the soot would be of somewhat greater value. VARIOUS QUESTIONS (IF. S. D.).— It is possible that Rose Dorothy Perkins would suit your purpose as well as any. -All Roses, however, like a fair amount of sun, and vou would be well advised to give it as light a position as possible. Jasminum nudiflorum may be planted at once, but you had better not plant Cratsegus Pyracantha until AprU. You ought also to be careful to procure the latter shrub established in a pot, as it usually transplants rather indillerently from the open "round. Jasminum nudillorum flowers during midmnter, and Crataegus Pyracantha blossoms about the end of May. Both plain s may be procured from any of the firms of general nurserymen who advertise in THE GARDEN. The address of Mr. D. B. Crane is 479, Archway iRoad, Highgate, London, N. VARIOUS QUESTIONS (Trent).— Thme is not much to choose between the merits of various kinds of climbing Roses which may be grown as specimen weeping plants ; but perhaps for general usefulness Dorothy Perkins takes the lead. Hiawatha is also very beautiful when grown as a weeping plant. Most people are guided in their choice by the colour of the flowers. Nothing can be done to your Ampelopsis to cause It to retain its leaves later in autumn. The leaves of the large-leaved forms usually fall more quickly than those of kinds which have small foliage. It is usual for the leaves to increase in size and alter in shape as the plants advance in age. Some dlllerence also occurs when shoots from old plants have been used for propagation, as they are likely to form large leaves earlier in Efe than others which have been raised from plants mth small leaves. Plants placed in very rich soil also have a tendency to form large leaves early in life, and it is usual for those growing in poor soil to colour more brilliantly than others wliich are in good soil. Gooseberry and Currant trees are often planted between Apple trees, with good results, although the crop of fruit may not be up to the standard of that grown on trees occupying more open positions. It would be as well to coiiflue the bushes to the more open parts of the border, in some of the market gardens about London it is usual to plant Lily of the Valley, Christmas Koses, Wallflowers and .N'arcissi beneath the shade of j^pple and Plum orchards. COAL-ASHES FOR THE GARDEN (H. S. TF.).— We do not think tlie use of coal-ashes in the garden, excepi for the purpose of lightening the soil or for making cinder paths is to be recommended. Their manurial value is very slight, and they are apt to contain substances poisonous to crops unless they have been exposed to washing by rain for some time. It would be better to weed the lawn, top-dress It with some good soil, and, when "rowth begins in spring, manure it with some sulphate of ammonia at the rate of half an ounce to the square yard, not more. From what you say mth regard to the pests your garden sutlers from, we should imagine the soil to be sour and in need ot a dressing of lime. When thu Carrots are through the soil and the fly which is the parent of the maggot is about, sprinkle along the rows with paraHin-moistened sand, and take care that the earth about the Carrots is not loosened so that the fly can make its way in. The cigar ash, used sparingly, would possibly be beneflcial. WEEDS ON LAWNS (Zeamer).— You can do little good by covering your croquet and tennis lawns with sulphate of ammonia or lawn sand and then resowing them. A better plan will be to have as many of the coarse weeds as possible pulled up by the roots at the present time. The. " Champion " Daisy Litter is a good too! tor the purpose. Then in March, in mild weather, proceed to prick the siu-tace ot each la%vn over with a fork, and then sow it with good seed, afterwards providing a light covering of good soil which is free from weed seeds. .^ li"ht rolling, when the siu-face is moderately dry, will complete the work. As the old turf is doubtless full of weed seeds, weeds will continue to appear for some time. These must be pulled up and not allowed to seed, ^ext autumn give the grass a 11 oral dressing ot bone-meal. This will encourage the grasses to outgrow the weeds. When the grass is vigorous, a dressing of sea-sand occasion- ally will encourage the finer kinds of grasses to outgrow the coarser kinds. THE RHODESIAN WISTARIA (BOLUSANTHUS JPECIOSUS) (F .'. H.I.— Thisis a leguminous tree, native ot Portuguese East Africa, Rhodesia and the Transvaal. It is described and figured by C. K.. Sim in his " Forest Flora and Forest Resources of Portuguese East Africa, pages 44 and 45. From his description we find that it forms a small ornamental tree, 20 feet to 35 feet high, with hard, white, durable timber, wliich is used almost exclusively for the spokes of wheels. The leaves are deciduous; pinnate, and made up ot from nine to seventeen lance-shaped leaflets. The flowers appear simiilt-aneously with the young leaves in spring. They are usually violet in colour, and borne in long racemes in a similar manner to tlie flowers of the Wistaria. In some districts it is called the Khodesian Wistaria, and, in other places, the \an Wykshout or Maawthlii. It is not common in cultiva- tion, is only grown from seed, and requires good deep soil and a subtropic.il climate PLANTS FOR HERBACEOUS BORDER {W. S. D.).— Although your garden is rather shaded, there is no reason why you should not be able to cultivate herbaceous plants fairly satisfactorily. Be careful, however, to well prepare the ground. Trench it from IJ feet to 2 feet deep, and add manure it at all poor. Should you find that tree roots are likely to interfere with the border, cut them off at a point 2 feet or 3 feet outside the border. This should be repeated every second year. The following plants may be planted, all ot which will blossom next sprin", summer or autumn, according to season : Del- phiniums in variety, garden varieties of Phlox for the lighter places, Pa-onies, Salvia vlrgata, Monarda didyma, Lychtus chalcedonica, Veronica teucrium, V. spicata, V virginica, \nemone japonlca. Asters in variety, Clematis recta Galega officinalis, Lilium candidum, L. tigrmum, Helleborus nlger (Christmas Rose) tor shady and moist places Saxifraga cordifolia. Pinks, Carnations, Lyclims coronarla, Acanthus (various species) and CEnothera biennis. The last named is not a perennial, but renews itself by self-sown seeds. NAME OF VLAST.—Beaily Groi'«.— Moschosma riparia. NAMES OF FRUIT.— .4. Z). — A, Allington Pippin ; B, Yorkshire Beauty ; 0, Winter Peach ; D, Blenheim Orange ; E, Colonel Vaughan ; F, Washington ; a. Sugar- loaf Pippin ; H, Wellington. SOCIETIES. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. ALTHOUGH cut flowers are exceedingly scarce just now, there appeared to be no appreciable falling oil in quantity at the fortnightly exhibition of the above society held at Vincent Square, Westminster, on Tuesday last. Carnations were the most prominent flowers, and they were shown by numerous exhibitors. There was also a wide selection of Orchids, while t:yclamen again were well shown. But the leading feature ot the exhibition was the vast collection of Potatoes from Messrs. Sutton and Sons, the famous Reading firm. Fruit and Veoetadle Committee. Present: J. Cheat, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs. J. Willard, E. Beckett, H. Markham, A. R. Allan, A. Grubb, A. Bullock, G. Reynolds, W. Poupart, C. G. A. >.ix, J. Basham and James Gibson. As already mentioned, Messrs. Sutton and Sons staged an extensive collection ot Potatoes. Xo fewer than 150 varieties, all of them in the flnest condition, were shown. The firm's varieties Carisbrooke Castle and Stirling Castle were to the tore, as well as a great many promising seedlings under number. The collection was "made the more interesting by the addition of wild types and numerous hybrids. Certain Potato diseases, as preserved specimens, including the much-dreaded black scab, were also represented. The high award ot a gold medal was deservedly given to this meritorious exhibit. „ , ^ ,„ . , Messrs. J. Carter and Co., Kaynes Park, S.W., received a silver-gilt Bankslan medal for an interesting collection of stored vegetables. Including Onions, Carrots. Potatoes Beet, Leeks, Celerlac and Salsify. The Onions Selected .iilsa Craig and Carter's Record were worthy of special mention. Okchid Committee. Present : J. G. Fowler, Esq. (chairman), and Sir Jeremiah Cohnan, Bart., Sir Harry J. Veitch, Messrs. James O'Brien, de B. Crawshay, R. A. Rolle, F. Sander, F J Hanbury, R. G. Thwaites, \V. Waters Butler, T. .-U-m- strou" A JIcBean, W. Cobb, J. Charlesworth, J. Cypher, J E Shill, W. P. Bound, F. J. Chapman, H. G. Alexander, C. H. Curtis, A. Dye, W. H. White, S. W. Flory, W. Bolton and Gurney Wilson. A silver Flora medal was granted to Messrs. Sander and Sons, St. Albans, for a group ot exquisite Orchids, including Phalsenopsis amabilis Illustre and many superb Odontoglossums. Messrs Charleswortll and Co., Hayward s Heath, showed many superb Odontoglossums, ot wliich Doris and amabile splendeus were the admiration ot all who saw them. Silver Flora medal. _,.,,„ A similar award was made to Messrs. J. and A. McBean, Cooksbridge, tor a magnificent collection of Cymbidiums, in which C. gottianum was most plentifully shown. Messrs. Armstrong and Brown, Tunbridge Wells, also received a silver Flora medal. Their group included many Cymbidiums, Cypripediums and .Masdevallias. Mrs. Xorman Cookson, Oakwood. Wylam (gardener, .Mr. H. J. Chapman), sent a beautiful collection of Odon- tiodas, in which the colours blended harmoniously. Cypripedium Venus, with six fine blossoms on the plant, was also shown. Silver Flora medal. Silver Bankslan medals were awarded to Messrs, J. Cypher and Sons, Cheltenliam, tor magnificent Cypri- pediums and Calanthes; Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Bush Hill Park, Enfield, tor Cattleyas, Cypripediums and Dendrobiums ; and Messrs. Flory and Black, Slough, Bucks, for very select varieties ot Cypripediums, Cattleyas and Odontoglossums. Floral Cosimittee. Present ; H. B. -May, Esq. (chairman), the Rev. F. Pane-Roberts, and Messrs. E. A. Bowles, R. Hooper Pearson J. Green, R. C. Xotcutt, G. Reuthe, G. (Jordon, J Stevenson, C. Blick, C. R. Fielder, J. F. McLeod, J. Hudson W. Howe, J. Jennings, W. Bain, J. Dickson, C Dixon, A. Turner, Charles E. Shea, C. E. Pearson, W. P. Thomson, E. H. Jenkins, W. J. James, W. J. Bean, E. Mawdey and .\. A. Dorrien-Smith. Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, W.C, showed batches of the early Cyclamen ibericum, together with Crocus species. Iris stylosa in variety. Snowdrops, ireesia retracta Primula malacoides, P. obconica of an excellent strain, and other winter-flowering subjects. The most remarkable item, however, was forced flowers ot the mauve-coloured Darwin TuUp William Copeland, which in January is most unusual. Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Enfield, staged a mce "roup ot Carnations, the best vases being of Baroness de Brienen Satin Robe and British Triumpli. Some excel- lent flowers of .Mrs. C. F. Raphael were also in evidence. Messrs. Low also displayed some very fine Cyclamen in pans. Giant ^^^lite, Salmon King, Vulcan and others being noted. A pretty feathered variety, white on carmine ground, was included in the group. The Misses Hopkins, Shepperton-on-Thames, had a small exhibit ot rockwork, on which Gentians, early (Cyclamen and hardy Primulas were seen. Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chehsea, displayed a capital table of winter-flowering plants— the old double white Primula (P. sinensis alba plena), Citrus japonlca in fruit, Azaleas (of which Deutsche Perle and Mme. H. Siedel were excellent whites), Ireesia refracta alba (very flue), the whito-fiowered Kalancho6 Dycri (a succulent from South .-Urica), LJly ot the Valley and other good plants. , Messrs R. W. Wallace and Co , Colchester, again showed a tabic ot dwarf shrubs suitable tor the rock garden. Some of these— Ilex Pernyii, Thuja oriontalis aurea nana Junipcrus globosa, Gre\1llea alplna, Cotoneaster bu.xitolia, C. thymifoMa and Thuja orientalis aurea gracilis— were quite good. Some select shrubby Veromcas were also shown. Messrs. Piper, Bayswater and Barnes, staged a par- ticularly good rockery exhibit, on which the ear y Cyclamen were beautifully colonised. These were chiefly of tho ibericum section, and in their abundance were very charming. Hocks and rock shrubs were arranged on both sides. Primulas, Origanum, Dictamnus and other plants being noted. Messrs. G. and A. Clark, Liimted, Dover, show;ed Prunroses and Polyanthuses ot an excellent strain, in wduch varied shades of blue were seen. The richly coloured Cloth ot Gold was also in evidence. Messrs. J. Cheat and Sons, Crawley, had a pretty grouping of early Cyclamen, Primulas, Primroses, hardy Heaths, and alpincs in variety. The Portuguese Heath, Erica codonodes, was very charming. Messrs. Young and Co., Cheltenham, showed a group of Perpetual-flowering Carnations, in which La .Mode, .Marmion, Beacon, and British Triumph were seen. ^^ fGARDEN. -y^~ ^^±z^^M No. 2203.— Vol. LXXVIIT. February 7, 1914. CONTENTS. Notes of the Week 65 Correspondence The history of white Heather . . . . 66 Scarcity of Chryean- themum cuttings 66 Mistletoe peculiaiity 66 Rose climbing Mme. Melanie Soupert. . 66 Primula pulvcrulenta Mrs. R.V.Berkeley 66 Rose Backfisch . . 66 Rose Mme. Edouard Herriot . . . . 67 A beautiful winter Heath 67 Mealy bug on Vines 67 Rose Aviateur B16riot 67 Thatched roofs . . 67 Forthcoming events . . 67 Seasonable notes on Auriculas 67 Transplanting large trees and shrubs . . 68 The Fig and its cultiva- tion 68 Selection of vegetable seeds 69 A beautiful Knotweed for the rock garden Hints on growing annual flowers Notes on Chrysanthe- mums Canarina campanula ta The herbaceous or mixed border . . New Orchids Gardening for Beginners Flowering shrubs for small gardens . . 73 Preparing greenhouse plants for bedding 73 Gardening of the Week For Southern gar- dens 74 For Northern gar- dens 74 Is the Daffodil a florist's flower? 75 The action of salt on soils 75 The Walnuts and their cultivation . . 75 Books 75 ILLUSTRATIONS. Rose climbing Mme. Melanie Soupert 66 An evergreen shrub ready for transplanting . . 68 A large tree ready for moving 68 An Evergreen Oak ready for transit 69 Polygonum affine in the Wisley rock garden . . . . 70 An attractive greenhouse plant 71 Cypripedium Desdemona 72 Cytisus prsecox, a May-flowering Broom 73 EDITORIAL NOTICES. Every department of horticulture is repre- sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions relating to matters upon which they wish expert advice. ThQ Editor welcomen photographs, articles and notes, but he will not he responsible for their safe return. All reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted contributions. As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor ask.s that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated. It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo- grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with. The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone be recognised as acceptance. I fices : 20, Tavisto.-'k Street, Covent Garden, W.C. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Our Sweet Pea Number. — Next week's issue will be largely devoted to Sweet Peas. We have secured some particularly interesting articles and illustrations relating to these flowers, and there is certain to be a big demand for that issue. Anyone requiring extra copies would be well advised to order them in advance. Artemisia arborescens. — There is now a great demand for plants possessing silvery grey foliage. This Artemisia is one of the best, and it associates well with all lavender shades. If cuttings are inserted now, they will make good specimens by the summer, and on the approach of frost they may be lifted and potted for decoration indoors. A Hint about Pea-Sticks. — When these are first received, it is a good method to undo the bundles and lay them in heaps on a spare piece of ground, placing heavy weights, such as logs of wood, on them. By doing so they become flattened out, and are therefore more serviceable, as well as being neater and going further. They may be treated like this either before or after they are sharpened, and are better still if they can remain weighted down until required for use. Winter Aconites. — These are, flowering quite a fortnight later this year than they did last, but we are pleased to iind that the colour is much deeper and more characteristic. It is difficult to understand why they are not more freely planted, particularly in grass, or shrub borders, where the rich yellow blossoms are seen to perfection. Outdoor flowers in January and February are none too plentiful, and full use should be made of those that are available. Raising Dahlias from Seed.— The value oi Dahlias for decoration, both for the garden or vases, cannot be over-estimated, and few plants give such a succession of bloom during the summer, although for cutting the single and Collarette forms are generally preferred. Seeds should be sown now and placed in a little warmth ; they will then make good plants for putting out in June. The ground they are intended to be grown on should not be heavily manured at the time ot digging, as it encourages strong, sappy growth ; but a little feeding when they are in bloom will be more beneficial. A Tree for a Moist Situation. — Those who are desirous of planting an efiective tree in a position where the groimd is naturally wet, such as the vicinity of a pond or stream which is liable to overflow its banks, might try the variety of the Speckled Alder which is known to botanists as Alnus incana ramulis coccineis. It differs from the type by reason of the bark of the young branches and the buds being red, a colour which is very attractive in winter. Moreover, the male catkins are showy, for they also present a ruddy effect, especially before the pollen is ripe. Like other Alders, it is in nowise fastidious regarding soil, providing it is on the moist side, and has the advantage of many trees by being able to grow in places subject to regular flooding. TJie Alexandrian Laurel. — Everyone who cares for plants of interest should certainly have this useful decorative shrub. Of the many ever- greens used during the winter, none can equal Danaea Laurus, with its graceful and glossy shoots. It is not difficult to grow, and when once established one can freely cut away the elegant shoots. The plant is closely allied to the Butcher's Broom (Ruscus aculeatus), being sometimes known as Ruscus racemosus ; but it is more free and graceful in habit, and better in the rich glossy colour of the leaves and shoots, which have the grace of the airy Willow with the glossy green of the Camellia. A Beautiful but Neglected Annual.— Amebi a cornuta is one of the most interesting annuals for the summer, and yet it is seldom seen. Its curious and yet beautififl flowers are rich yellow, marked with large, heart-shaped, black spots from the base to the tips of the petals, which on the second day turn to a deep maroon and finally disappear with age, leaving the flowers a pure yellow. It is of branching habit, from a foot to ij feet high, and blooms with imusual freedom all the summer. It is very valuable for cutting, as the flowers retain their freshness for some time in water. Seeds should be sown now and placed in a little warmth ; these will make good plants for putting out at the end of April or early in May. White-Stemmed Brambles. — The value of white-stemmed Brambles for winter effect is very apparent at Clandon Park, Surrey, where Rubus biflorus is planted in large beds by the lakeside. In the autumn the canes were heavily manured, and the results have fully justified the operation. R. biflorus, however, will in the course of time be quite outrivalled by the new and graceful species R. giraldianus, from China. The latter sends up strong canes 6 feet or 7 feet in height, which bend over and droop to the ground. As the canes are white throughout their entire length, each plant forms a most attractive subject. R. giraldianus may be quickly increased either by seed or by layering. More Money for Wisley.— At the annual general meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society, to be held on Tuesday next at 3 p.m., the following resolution will be proposed and seconded : " The Council of the society be requested to create a special trust fmid to carry on and augment the society's work at Wisley, and this meeting would approve of a part of the present surplus funds of the society being allocated to that purpose." All sorts of rumours are afloat as to the exact meaning of this rather nebulous resolution, and we presume details of the suggested augmentation of the society's work at Wisley will be forthcoming at the meeting. 66 THE GARDEN. [February 7. 1914. CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is not responsible for tlie opinioits expressed by correspondents.) The History of White Heather.—" R. O. " asks, on page 42 of January 24 issue, whether tliere is any reference in any well-known book as to how white Heather came to be regarded as a symbol of good fortune and luck. The Rev. Hilderic Friend, F.L.S., in his " Flowers and Flower Lore," page 279, says : ". . . and even the Heather itself ... is without any definite story or tradition." From the above I take it that the white Heather is included. — <',. C. DUDDRIDGE. Scarcity ol Chrysanthemum Cuttings. — " Avon " refers, on page 31, issue January 17, to the scarcity of cuttings last year, but this peculiarity is noticeable in some varieties this season also, even among those that flower early. .\ market-grower rec ently showed me some hundreds of stools of Dorothy Ashley, a beau- tiful pink of recent intro- duction ; but not a single cutting was visible, nor were there any signs of sucker growths, yet the stock last season pro- duced an abundance of cuttings. Why ?— T. W. Mistletoe Peculiarity. — I have a plant of JMistletoe 30 inches m diameter on an Apple tree, which is the result of ten years' growth and has never yet borne a berrj'. The growth is robust, of an intense bronzy green tint of colour. Why does it not fruit, I should like to know ? — S. [It is pro- bable that the plant in question bears male flowers only. The Mis- tletoe is peculiar in that it is sometimes unisexual and at other times bi- sexual. Our correspon- dent's best plan is to sow seed on the Apple tree next month in the hope of securing a berry-bearing plant. Seed may be sown by cutting a notch in the bark on the under side of a branch, and carefully inserting the seed therein. — Ed.J Rose Climbing Mme. Melanie Soupert. — it happens su rarely tliat the Rose-grower on the modest scale can add anything to Mr. H. E. Molyneux's descriptions of the newer Roses that, when the opportunity occurs, I feel that it can on no account be missed. In describing Burrell's climbing form of Mme. Melanie Soupert on page 47, issue January 24, he tells us how much he is looking forward to seeing the flowers in the coming season. I can assure him, good florist as he is, that he will have some difficulty in finding any fault with them. Somehow Mme. Melanie Soupert's charms disarm all criticism, yet many of us must at times have longed for blooms with ii few more of the exquisite shell-like petals. This the climbing form provides us with, making Mme. .Melanie Soupert the finest all-round exhibition and decorative Rose I know of. My plant has had some- what hard fare for the last two seasons — an eastern exposure, and a mass of clay and a gravel drive to push its roots into. Yet even under these conditions its shoots are rioting far out of reach up the wall against which it was planted, and of all the blooms I have seen I cannot recall one with a single fault. — R. H. Biffen, Cambridge. Primula pulverulenta Mrs. R. V. Berkeley.— I was interested to see Dr. JIacwatt's note, page 42, issue January 24, on this beautiful variety of an extremely popular Primula, and can bear out his statement in regard to it failing to produce seed when fertilised with its own pollen. When it is pollinated with the type, seed is often formed, and a certain percentage come the variety in question, but the majority are P. pulverulenta. Two years or so ago, varieties, almost if not identical, appeared in various places among seedlings of P. pulverulenta, the seed being saved from plants cultivated in this countrv. Messrs. Barr and Sons A BUVVi, OF ROSE CLIMBING MME. MELANIE SOUPLRT GROWN BY PROFESSOR BIFFEN. offer seed of P. p. Mrs. R. V. Berkeley in their catalogue this year, where it is described as " a charming new hybrid, differing from P. pulveru- lenta in having pretty creamy white flowers with orange eye." It is hardly correct to state that it is of hybrid origin, and no mention is made of it coming true from seed or otherwise. I crossed P. p. Mrs. R. V. Berkeley with P. cock- bumiana, and seed was only produced in a small quantity ; but the reverse way gave ample seed. When both crosses flowered, many were typical P. Unique, while 30 per cent, or so were lighter in colour and no advance upon other Primulas in commerce. P. Unique crossed with P. p. Mrs. R. V. Berkeley gave forms of P. Excelsior, but none approached the scarlet P. Excelsior, which gained an award of merit from the Royal Horti- cultural Society last year. — ^T. W. Briscoe. Rose Backfisch. — On page 56 of your issue of January 31, in referring to a pretty little Pompon Rose sent out by Peter Lambert of Trier that had been christened with the apparently "cruel" name of Backfisch, I hinted there might be .1 reason for the label, and asked that the word might be translated for me. My old German dictionary of schoolday use had failed me, " Baked Fish " or " Fried Fish " not seeming exactly a fitting Rose title ! I have not had long to wait. Several post-cards and two letters have already reached me and give me the desired information, in the form of various translations of Backfisch, and which I now hand on for the benefit of those of your readers who may have been, equally with myself, in the dark ; and I take this oppor- tunity of thanking those of my correspondents through your columns who did not give mc sufiicient data to do so personally. They all agree that Backfisch is a word that in this case has not been used in its literal sense ; in other words. Backfisch would appear to be a slang expression. One post-card, with no other address than the London post-mark, reads a s follows: Backfisch^ a female nut." .\ second says: " Backfisch is used as denoting a yomig girl not yet ' out,' and the name was probably given to the Rose before it was ' introduced ' ! " A third says: " I think you will find it means a half-grown schoolgirl, a boarding-school or bread- and-butter miss." But the fourth correspon- dent puts the matter so well and writes such a charmmg letter that I should like to quote his letter in full, but my modesty forbids, and 1 will only give you that portion deal- ing with Backfisch. It was addressed to ■' H. E. M., In a Hamp- shire Garden, Southamp- ton " : "Backfisch, literally brook fish, is synonymous with another very modem word, ' flapper," both ten years ago, but girl in her teens — in of ' sweet seventeen.' ' Brook fish ' may stand for ' salmon pink.' or something that has not yet ventured into deeper waters, or a tender plant. Hideous ! but in these slangy days applicable in modem minds to the sweet little flower you describe." The moral of the above is obvious. One occasionally reads diatribes (I am not sure I have not been guilty of writing one or two myself) against the presumed ridiculous labelling of Roses and other plants with names (in other languages than our own) the meaning of which may not be quite clear to us. I admit I was nearly letting myself go over Backfisch — prudence and a sufficient knowledge of the raiser, Herr Peter Lambert, saved mc ; but my narrow escape in this case may very well be a lesson to others besides myself. — Herbert E. Molyneu.x. unknown, I imagine, used to describe the my youth we spoke February 7, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 67 Rose Mme. Edouard Herriot.— I was pleased to see the recent coloured plate of this Rose, which was certainly very good. I am looking forward to seeing it in flower in the open, for I question whether the flowers exhibited were in true form, being grown under glass. Moreover, I do not believe we shall see what Mme. Edouard Herriot can do until we have home-budded stocks, ■ .uid particularly on the Briar. Past experience with French Roses, and particularly the pemeti- ouas, convinces me that we do not see them in form until two seasons have elapsed. — T. W. A Beautiful Winter Heath.— Erica carnea prjecox rubra is one of the best of the newer varieties of E. carnea which have been selected by Mr. Richard Potter and sent out by Messrs. Backhouse of York. It comes early into flower, and affords us a number of sprays. Its name of praecox is quite borne out by its early flowering. It is a very good variety, the flowers being of a rich rose carmine, with the tips of a good, deep madder brown. When these fine Heaths become a little cheaper they will be of great value. Those of us who have a full set of the twelve varieties distributed appreciate the welcome bits of colour they give in earliest spring or even in late \vinter. — S. Arnott. Mealy Bug on Vines. — It may interest some of your readers to know how I cleared a vinery of mealy bug. First of all, the Vines were pruned, then the cut surfaces painted with patent knotting ; next, the rough bark was taken off very carefully, special care being taken round the spurs. Then the glass and woodwork had a good scrubbing and were washed >'own with the hose ; next, the ironwork was p. iuted with paraffin, taking care not to get it on the Vines. The walls were then thoroughly whitewashed and, lastly, the Vines painted, taking care not to miss the least portion and stoppmg up every little hole, but taking care of the buds. The paint was made as follows : I got some smooth clay and made it thoroughly dry, then worked it into a fine powder. I pro- cured a pint of coal-tar, put it into a galvanised bucket, then poured on a gallon of boiling water, added a wineglassful of paraffin, and well stirred. I then added the powdered clay a little at a time, and kept it stirred till of the consistency of thick cream, and, when cold, painted the Vines as before stated. I also went carefully over the spurs on bright days, and found one or two msects ; but now the Vines are thoroughly free, and I am well rewarded for the trouble that the work entailed.— S. J. S. Rose Aviateur Bleriot.- Mr. H. E. Molyneux, in referring to this climber on page 35, issue January 17, mentions that it is not a very strong grower vrith him. 1 almost wish I could say the same, for I planted a young plant three seasons back against a fence with the idea of tymg the growths to a pole. As my ramblers are but 3 feet 6 inches apart, the problem with me is how to deal with the octopus-like growths of Aviateur Bleriot. Not only does it send up many great basal growths, but these break at all points, the laterals runnmg out in all directions 4 feet to 6 feet. During last autumn I cut away many of these side growths, and have since removed many thin basal growths ; but as to cutting out old flowermg wood, it cannot be done, for such wood is bristling with new autumn-made growths, some shoots ruiming up 12 feet, others sprawling over into my neighbour's garden and making his path almost impassable. Aviateur Bleriot is the most vicious wichuraiajia I have ever had to deal with, owing to its habit of making so many laterals. For general vigour nothing I grow approaches it, except American Pillar and Minnehaha, and as both of these are on a wall, I can deal with them. As Mr. Molyneux states, Aviateur Bl&riot has beautiful lasting foUage, better than nine-tenths of the wichuraianas, but it does not flower in the same way as the Dorothy Perkuis type, and it is rather early. The colour in the bud is fine, but, like all yellow ramblers, it becomes nearly white in due course. From what I have seen of Shower of Gold at the shows, Aviateur B16riot is the same. — T. A. Thatched Roofs. — With regard to the use of thatched roofs for country houses and out- buildings (see The Garden for January 3, page 1, and January 17, page 31), there cannot be two opinions from an esthetic point of view. From the window of the room in which I am writing I have only to turn my head slightly to look upon two very old cottages, some 200 yards or more distant, with projecting porches covered with climbing plants and big front gardens. The roofs of these cottages are of real old brown thatch, which has apparently been untouched for a number of years. I can imagine the change that would be effected by the removal of the thatch and the substitution of slates. At the same time, one cannot help thinking what a home this ancient thatch offers for dust, dirt and vermin. If a new form of roofing is generally to be adopted, it would seem to be in the direction of tiles, the glaring redness of which can be con- siderably toned down by boiling them in oil before fixing, an operation, in my memory, that was performed with a certain amount of success some years back on a house erected at Kew. With regard to Mr. Kenna way's appeal for the preserva- tion of thatched roofs, the Devon and Exeter Gazette, commenting upon it, says : "On the whole, the object of the appeal — securing pictur- esqueness — has met with sympathy, but several practical objections have been raised," which are set forward in the following extract from the Sanitary Record and Municipal Engineering : " We wish," it says, " it were possible for us to support the appeal, but we are regretfully obliged to admit that the objections against the use of this material greatly outweigh the advantages claimed for it, for thatch is, on sanitary grounds, a material which not only harbours vermin, but when infectious disease occurs in houses covered with it, efficient disinfection is practically im- possible. Moreover, it is so highly combustible and incapable of being protected against fire that new buildings should not be covered with it. The disastrous fire at Swavesey, in Cambridge- shire, which occurred during the past year, and destroyed one-half of the cottages in the village which were covered with thatch, while those covered with incombustible material escaped, is too striking a lesson to be disregarded. We venture to hope, however, that officers of District Councils will not hasten to condemn these existing thatched cottages." — John R. Jackson, Lympstone, Devon. SEASONABLE NOTES ON AURICULAS. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. February 9.— United Horticultural Benefit and Provident Society's. Committee Meeting. February 10.— Royal Horticultural Society's Show and Annual Meeting. February 12.— Manchester and North of England Orchid Society's Meeting. February 13. — Beckenham Horticultural Society's Meeting. DURING the month of February the ^ general routine wiU depend entirely I upon the weather. If it is cold and f frosty, little can be done ; but should it keep open and mild, the plants will be very active at the roots, and in consequence must be given more water. We should now aim to keep them just moist, and try to secure that happy medium which is easily obtained by every observant cultivator. It is difficult to describe this con- dition, but the best advice I can give an amateur is : If in doubt about watering a plant, let it wait until the next day appointed for this purpose. With Auriculas it is not necessary to look through the plants daily at this period of the year. Offsets. — Towards the end of the month the collection should be examined, and all offsets large enough for removal may be taken off. Some will be quite strong and possess a fair quantity of roots. These can be potted in 3-inch pots, using as a rooting medium good fibrous loam three parts, leaf-mould one part, and a moderate sprinkling of sharp sand. The pots usually selected are known as " long thumbs," and the drainage may either be broken brick rubble or ordinary potsherds, over which is placed a thm layer of loam fibre. These offsets, if given a larger receptacle later on, will make nice healthy plants for' next season. Some of the smaller offsets which have no roots should be treated as cuttings by placing several round the side of a pot, and if kept close for a few weeks in a hand-light or frame, they will soon form roots, when they may be potted off in a similar mixture to that named above. The Uselessness of Top-Dressing.— At one time it was the rule to remove about an inch or so of the top soil from aroimd the old plants and replace it with a somewhat rich compost. I have found that this is superfluous, for no differ- ence could be detected in plants which were top- dressed and those that were left alone. It is, however, advisable to look over all plants that were repotted last May or June, and prick over the surface soil with a pointed stick. Where any of the compost has been washed away or removed with the offsets, it should be replaced. Cleanliness, Ventilation and Light.— The pots may be scrubbed and new labels written where necessary, while the plants will benefit if given plenty of ventilation ; but cold, cutting, frosty winds must be avoided. Light is most essential at this season, and where plants are grown near large manufacturing towns and fogs are frequent, the outside glass should be washed and kept as clean as possible. Repotting Offsets. — A few offsets will have been removed about last August, particularly from choice varieties, and if proper attention has been given they will now require a larger receptacle. When repotting, see that the woolly aphis is destroyed, and make the compost fairly firm. Seedlings. — In most collections a few seedlings are raised, and these should be pricked off directly they have made two or three tiny leaves. Boxes or pans are best for them in the early stages, a distance of an inch or so from plant to plant being ample ; but, when the foliage meets, they ought to be given separate pots. The seed-pans should not be thrown away as other seedlings will appear later on. T. W. Briscoe. ■^8 THE GARDEN. [February 7, 1914. TRANSPLANTING LARGE TREES AND SHRUBS. A FEW weeks' work with a transplanting machine when making a new garden, or when carrying out alterations in i existing pleasure grounds, moving ^ large trees and shrubs, will produce an effect for which it would be neces- sary to wait fifteen or twenty years were the moving done by hand, and only plants of moderate size slower in growth than deciduous trees. There will not be sufficient work for one or more of these machines in a garden of fair dimensions ; but when new work or alterations on a considerable scale are contemplated, it is worth while calling in the help of a firm who use these machines, or hiring the machines from them for a few weeks. Having decided on the size of the ball of soil necessarj' to transplant a certain specimen satis- factorily, the ground must be marked out and a trench i foot wide dug all round the ball. Square balls with rounded corners are the easiest to manipulate with .a machine. THE FIG AND ITS VATION. CULTI- F ROM time immemorial the Fig has been considered a fruit worthy of notice and cultivation. It is a native ot Mediterranean regions, and flourishes equally well in Southern Europe, Northern Africa and Western .Asia. Records show that this valuable fruit was introduced into England from Italy early in the sixteenth century by Cardinal Pole and planted in the grounds The depth to dig down will ' of Lambeth Palace, where possibly its descendants depend on the size of the speci- are still extant. This fruit cannot be said to men and the quantity of roots, ! actually flourish in England generally, although varying from r J feet to 3 feet I '" certain places on the South Coast there are or slightly more. To hold the I instances of standard Fig trees bearing good soil together, a piece of canvas ! supplies of fruit. It has been found necessary, should be bound round the ball ' therefore, to protect trees growmg out of doors further North, and away from the soothing influence of sea breezes, from the ravages of frost and cold, so they may be regarded as wall fruit. Propagation. — This may be carried out in several ways, but the methods most generally used are layering, making cuttings or using suckers. In the case of the last mentioned, the wood is sometimes very soft, so it cannot be so highly recommended as either of the others. For cuttings, short-jointed, well-ripened wood should be used and placed m a cold frame free from frost until early spring, when mens are transplanted, in digging they may be introduced into a brisk heat. Roots will round the ball the plant will lose soon be forthcoming, and the usual treatment will some roots, so to balance this a then suffice. The practice of layering is convenient, number of the branches and for quite a large branch may be so treated, and there- twigs should be cut out. Make fore a good-sized tree obtained with little trouble. .[ basin with soil round each ' The other means of increase are by seeds, root- specimen as soon as it is planted, cuttings and by grafting, but they are little used, and water with thick cord and held in posi- tion by a few narrow boards, which can be seen placed in position round the balls of the plants illustrated. In the pro- cess of moving, any roots damaged must be cut off clean. If larger than a pencil, the cut surface should be tarred over to prevent fungus starting decay. However [carefully large speci- I. — AN EVERGREEN SHRUB WITH ROOTS AND SOIL BOUND UP READY FOR TRANSPLANTING. used. Tall deciduous trcts — Poplars, for instance — can be moved successfully without having soil adhering to the roots ; but with evergreens in particular there should be good balls of soil transferred with them to their new positions. Failing a transplantmg machine, rollers, planks and a low, four-wheeled trolley may be utilised, the difference being that the work takes longer with plants of considerable size, the balls of soil are generally more shaken about in hauling, and it is not so easy to place the plant upright in the centre of the new hole prepared for it. Three sizes of transplanting machines are useful tor moving balls of soil weighing from five hundred- weight to eight or ten tons. A small machine manipulated by five or seven men, according to the weight of the ball, will move from a quarter to three-quarters of a ton. A machine of moderate dimensions will carry up to one and a-half tons, and requires seven to eleven men to work it. The large machine will carry balls of soil up to ten tons. The Evergreen Oak shown in Fig. 3 weighs about eight tons. The value of behig able to successfully transplant large specimens thirty or more years old, such as this, will be at once recognised. The greatest value of these machines is, of course, with evergreens, as these, taken as a whole, are thoro u g hly, unless the weather is frosty. Fig. r shows a bushy ever- green tied up and prepared ready to lift with a transplanting machine. The wheels stand on the planks placed in position at the sides. The two large ropes are seen placed round the two lifting planks under the ball, the four ends being fastened round rollers on the machine. Fig. 2 is a large tree ready for moving on planks and rollers. The wooden rollers run on the two stout planks placed on the ground. One side of the ball is seen lifted with a jack, ready to place the rollers underneath tlie ball. The tree is hauled by men with a pulley up the planks on to a low trolley, or, if the dis- tance is short, the specimen may be rolled on planks the whole way. Fig. 3 shows an Evergreen' Oak weighing about eight tons, slung on one of Barron's trans- planting machines, ready for the horses to draw to a new station. Even larger trees may be trans- planted in tliis way. A- O. -A LARGE TREE READY tOK MOVING BY MEANS Ol" PLANKS AND ROLLERS. February 7, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 69 Cultivation. — With regard to outdoor treatment, the wall chosen for the plants should have, if possible, a southern or south-western aspect, but they may also be grown in an eastern position. The ■essential factor in the preparation of the soil is perfectly drainage. In preparing quarters for fresli trees, the condition of the subsoil should be ascertained, and if cold -and retentive, plenty of broken bricks and old mortar rubble should be introduced at the bottom of the trench, which need only be 30 inches deep. In order to check too rampant a growth, it will be found best to mi.x •ordinary garden soil with new loam, making the whole firm as the work proceeds, and continuing to use a goodly share of lime rubble in the compost. A brick partition should be built round the trench at a distance of about two feet from the wall, to assist in preventing the roots from growing too treely. In cold districts the Fig is decidedly better for some protection during the most severe weather. The branches need only be covered with mats just nailed over them during very sharp frosts, but the roots must be covered during the whole ■if the cold season with a liberal dressing of half- decayed manure, and this should be covered with slates when heavy rains are frequent, as everything ■depends upon keeping the roots warm and fairly dry. Successful under-glass culture is comparatively ■easy of attainment, provided one or two practical points are kept in view, (a) The root-run must be restricted and the compost should be only moderately rich to begin with ; (6) the border must be made quite firm and (c) the drainage must at all times be in perfect condition. Excellent results may be obtained also from growing in pots ■and tubs. Pruning. — For outdoor culture this chiefly consists in cutting away right from the base weak and xmnecessary wood. While an efiort should be made to retain the main branches, as much good wood as possible should be encouraged yearly from the base, and this should be allowed to grow unchecked throughout the season. The system adopted imder glass must necessarily be more orthodox. Assuming the bouse to be liberally ■covered with branches, the yoimg wood must be pinched at the fourth or fifth leaf, and all tm- necessary shoots pulled off, as overcrowding of the wood is fatal to good Fig culture. Watering must always be carried out most judiciously, and luiless the grower is sure that his border (or other receptacle) is efficiently drained, it will be foimd safer to apply too little rather than too much, especially during the early stages of growth. Pests. — ^The most troublesome are red spider and mealy bug. A free use of the sjfringe will do much to keep the former in check, but for mealy bug it is best to dress the trees while m a dormant state with some approved insecticide. Varieties. — For outdoor culture the best is Brown Turkey, while White Marseilles and Angelique also do well. (The latter should have a south wall.) For growing under glass, Brown Turkey is difficult to beat and should be included in every collection. Others to \)e noted are White Marseilles, .Angeliqu? (very early forcer), Black Ischia (early), Monaco Bianco (midseason), Col- ■di-Signora Bianca, Agen (late), and Negro Largo (suitable for tubs or pots). Planting may be carried out under glass any time between October and March ; out of doors, early in the autumn or during February or March. H. Turner. Serlby Hall Gardens, Bawtry, Yorks. SELECTION OF VEGETABLE SEEDS. 1 SHOULD like to supplement the excellent selection of varieties given by Mr. Beckett on page 15, January 3 issue. Now that there are so many varieties to choose from in almost all sections, it is bewildering to the inexperienced to select the best. Some growers for exhibition may say all varieties suit- able for that purpose are also the best for daily use. That may be quite correct under ordinary treatment, but when grown under exhibition methods the conditions are altered. Broad Beans. — Longpod for general growth and Mammoth for exhibition are all that is required. French or Kidney Beans. — For forcing early in pots or pits Sutton's Forcing is a rapid-growing Bean, and Osborne's is still a desirable variety, with Ne Plus Ultra. For summer growth in the I prefer a smaller type like Scrynigcr's Gianl and Imported, which give abundance of hard, button- like sprouts, so much more preferable for table than the Cabbage-like article often favoured nn the show table. Borecole or Kale has become an important vegetable, adding variety and giving huge crops. Of the large, curly type Sutton's Ai is desirable, but for a constant supply through the winter and early spring, when green vegetables are not over-abundant, I prefer the true Labrador Kale. Cauliflowers are an important crop. For sowing indoors Early Forcing and Snowball are reliable, with Autumn Giant as the best for ordinary summ'^r cultivation. Cabbage. — For an early supply Early Rainham, Sutton's Earliest and Little Gem, with Wheeler's Imperial and Enfield Market for a late supply. If more variety is required, Sutton's April and Flower of Spring are excellent for August sowing, tn come in as a succession between the earliest -AN EVERGREEN' OAK, WrEIGHING .\BOUT EIGHT TONS, SLUNG ON A LARGE MACHINE READY FOR TRANSIT. open Superlative and Masterpiece are both good sorts of a larger type. Climbing French Beans are useful, as they continue to bear for a long time and may be employed to blot out an unsightly object, as they grow 6 feet high. Earliest of All and Epicure are desirable sorts. Runner Beans can now, with careful culti- vation, be had in July, and continue right up to the end of October. Ai, Hackwood Park and Best of .AH are good sorts in addition to that mentioned by Mr. Beckett. Broccoli. — Carter's Autumn for an early supply, followed by Self- protecting, Leamington, Knight's Protecting and Late Queen for the latest, are ample, with the addition of Purple Sprouting, which gives added variety and lasts a considerable time without running to seed. Brussels Sprouts are such an important winter vegetable that the best should be obtained. Where larger sprouts are required for exhibition. Match- less and Exhibition are superior. For home use and late. Savoy Earliest of All comes in very quickly, almost too much so. Reliance and Dwarf Green Curled are suitable for small gardens. Carrots are indispensable. Champion Scarlet Horn and Early Gem for sowing in frames, with Scarlet Intermediate for larger outdoor growth, or for exhibition early or late. Where extra heavy crops are required, combining them with a supply for cattle as well as for the kitchen. Long Red Surrey should be grown. Celery. — Sulham Prize Pink and Superb White .ire two desirable varieties for ordinary cultivation. Cucumbers are well represented by a good form of Telegraph for ordinarv use. or Every Day or Delicacy for exhibition. Leeks. — The best variety for exhibition is Improved Lyon. If, however. Leeks are only required in an ordinarv wav, Musselburgh is desirable. Vegetable Marrows. — Tender and True of the bush class type is good, and so is Long White. 70 THE GARDEN. [February 7, 1914. Table Dainty in the coloured section is excellent. Pen-y-byd is very productive, with almost globular fruit, creamy white in colour. This variety requires but little space, therefore is valuable. Onions. — For exhibition in Jtme and July White Leviathan is desirable. For August and onwards Ailsa Craig is superior to any other. For home use Giant Rocca matures early. For autumn, winter and spring Maincrop is a superior variety. For pickling, if anything is wanted beyond the small bulbs of the last named. Improved Queen and Small Paris Silver Skin should be chosen. Tomatoes. — The best red variety for exhibition IS Perfection, and for general use out of doors Up to Date is decidedly good. Winter Beauty is a good winter-fruiting variety. In yellow-skinned sorts Golden Nugget, Golden Perfection, and for the open wall Carter's Golden Sunrise and Green- gage are desirable. Potatoes. — For early use Veitch's Early Ashleaf, Sharpe's Victor, Duke of York and Sir John variety, produces large Peas of excellent flavour, and is almost immune from mildew. Lettuce. — Of Cos varieties for summer use Mammoth White, Superb White and Dwarf Perfection are good. For winter growth Black- seeded Bath, Champion Brown and Winter White are to be depended upon for a constant supply. Of Cabbage varieties Favourite, Commodore Nutt, Heartwell and Ideal, with Golden Ball if more variety is required, are all desirable. Mar^'el, All the Year Round and Hammer- smith Hardy Green are good for autumn sowing. Swanmore Park, Hampshire. E. Molvnev.x. A BEAUTIFUL KNOTWEED FOR THE ROCK GARDEN. Polygonum a f f i n e . The genus Polygonum is a most variable one. Some of the species are imposing giants, like P. baldschuanicum, the beautiful rampant climlier POLYGONUM AFFINE IN THE WISLEY ROCK GARDEN. Llewelyn are desirable as second earlies. Webb's New Guardian is a reliable cropper, and so are Sutton's Satisfaction and Abundance. For late use Dalhousie is reliable. Of newer sorts, several of the pedigree seedlings introduced by Messrs. Sutton are desirable. As a second early I can recommend Stirling Castle as an extraordinary cropper of capital quality, and Edinburgh Castle, Balmoral Castle and Dover Castle as a succession. Peas. — When three seed funis catalogue 151, 100 and 89 varieties, there is small wonder it the inexperienced person finds a difficulty in making a selection. For early sowing Early Giant, Pioneer, Early Moni, The Pilot and Edwin Beckett. For general use as second earlies Masterpiece, Webb's New Kaiser and Alderman are difficult to beat. For the latest supplies The Gladstone, Ne Plus Ultra, Latest of All and Goldfinder are not excelled. The latter, although a short-podded from Bokhara, while others are of low trailing habit, spreading naturally over rocks and boulders. It is to the latter group that P. aiiine belongs. It does not attain more than 6 inches in height, and its spreading mass of deep green fohage makes it a capital plant foi" clothing rocks, while it may also be used with charming effect as a substitute for the Periwinkle to cover banks or low tree stumps. Moreover, it is very free - flowering, for in late summer it pro- duces a wealth of rosy crimson flower-spikes. In the accompanying illustration Polygonum affine is shown growing with remarkable free- dom in the Royal Horticultural Society's new rock garden at Wisley. It is a native of the Himalayas, and so hardy is it in constitution that, once established in a garden, no fears need be entertained about its future except that it will need to be kept within hounds, lor it is apt to spread too readily. HINTS ON GROWING ANNUAL FLOWERS. To many readers of The Garden the lengthening days will bring serious thoughts of preparation for future floral display. In the majority of gardens, no matter the size, annuals are now deservedly grown. They serve many useful purposes, as, for instance, in a new garden to which one may have recently removed, a quite luxuriant and beautiful display can be secured even the first season ; or they are serviceable in filling gaps during the growth of more permanent inhabitants. But, however used, their value is undoubtedly great. According to taste, some may prefer masses or beds of annuals, while others like to scatter them as specimen plants among their border perennials. Both methods are good, the former in the larger and the latter in smaller gardens ; or the two plans may be judiciousK- employed, and fine results accrue. It may be that some rather under-estimate the true value of annuals owing to their small cost, and treat them accordingly, while to others this is an important advantage. Many of our most glorious annuals are, how- ever, quite cheap, and it is hoped that any %vho read these lines and who have not done so will try a few of the varieties which will be enumerated. Preparing the Soil.— In gardens where digging has not been com- pleted, this should be pushed forward in all open weather, espe- cially on heavy land. Whether light or heavy, however, expenditure of the labour incidental to " double digging" will be amply repaid in the quality of the blooms and the length of their flowering. If clayey, the soil should have a liberal supply of horse-manure well mixed in — country road sweep- ings are useful — and the top left in rough ridges for the frost to penetrate. Light soils can be dug in February and March, and some cow or pig manure well incor- porated. A dusting of old soot and bone - meal put on in spring will be found beneficial on all soils. An exception to this general application of manure occurs in the case of Nastifrtiunis, which make much leaf growth in rich soil at the expense of flowers. Selection of Varieties. — After the preparation of the ground comes the consideration of varieties, and as the amateur is apt to be at a loss when given a multitude of names, in the following selection will be fomid some of the finest hardy kinds of proved merit, easily grown ajid floriferous : Sweet Peas are best grown by themselves. Shirley Poppies are good either massed or dotted about. Thinned to 12 inches apart and each plant staked, they do well almost anywhere, and will be found to be worth a little care. To make the cut flowers last, gather them when opening in the early morning, place the stalks immediately in half an inch of boiling water for two minutes, then transfer them to cold water. They will then keep well for some days. Nigella dnmascena Miss Jekyll, Coreopsis tinctoria. February 7, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 71 Sweet Sultaii, Godetias Lady Albemarle and Duchess of Albany, Clarkia Salmon Queen and Chrysanthemum coronarium tricolor. For mixing in bunches : Gypsophila elegans grandiflora alba and Eragrostis elegans (Love Grass). For climbing purposes : TropaDolum canariense (Canary Creeper) or T. lobbianum and Convolvulus major (Morning Glory). For edging : Virginian Stock, Candytuft and Sweet Alyssum. For perfume : Matthiola bi- comis (Night-scented Stock) ; sow pinches of seed in out-of-the-way comers at intervals during the season. The foregoing can all be openlj' sown, and, except the varieties named for special uses, are of medium height. In a future article some of the best half-hardy annuals will claim attention. B. W. Lewis. varieties. Shallow boxes may be used. Put in a thin layer of well-rotted manure, then a good compost surfaced with sand. Insert the cut- tings 2 inches apart, water, and shade from bright sunshine. The cuttings will form roots in about twenty days if the boxes are placed just above the hot-water pipes, and in a month if accommodated in a cool frame. .\von. of repotting, that is, usually, in December, or by young cuttings taken in the spring and inserted in sand in a warm propagating-case. THE HERBACEOUS OR MIXED BORDER. GANARINA CAMPANULATA. Although seldom seen in cultivation, Canarina campanulata is a beautiful greenhouse plant ' colour NOTES ON CHRY- SANTHEMUMS. IT is many years since the blooms of these plants were as scarce, and conse- quently as much appre- ciated, as they were dur- ing the Christmas season. Owing to the mild weather, which brought on other kinds of flowers very quickly as well as some of the late-flowering Chrysanthemums, and then the spell of severe weather abroad, blooms were at a premium. Such a condition may not obtam again for many years ; but whether it does or not, cultivators will be wise if they include in their collections good batches of late- flowering varieties. Amateur cultivators should Propagate the Main Batch of Cuttings Now. — Much use can be made of the garden frame, in which the young plants will do nicely. Being practically hardy, a few- mats will protect them from frosts. Plants intended for exhibi- tion purposes should be propagated singly in small pots, but all others will do well if several cuttings are inserted in a 3-inch pot. If this is done, valuable space at this season will be saved. Potting Rooted Cuttings.— It is very rare indeed that all the cut- tings inserted at the same time will be ready for potting on the same date. Some are stronger- growing varieties than others, and the cuttings of these, if not too sappy, will form roots and be ready for potting about a week before the weaker-growing sorts. Every young plant must possess a nice lot of roots ; it is then fit to repot. If left too long in the small pot it becomes stunted and the stem hardens unduly. It is owing to such a check that one often finds plants with thin stems ' about 6 inches above the pot and thicker higher up. Keep all young plants growing steadily and well up to the light ; if grown in a greenhouse, place them on shelves. Rooting Border Varieties. — Early in February put in the cuttings of the border AN ATTRACTIVE GREENHOUSE PLANT, CANARtNA NATIVE OF THE CANARY ISLANDS. of comparatively easy culture. It is named Canarina from its habitat, being a native of the Canary Islands, while the specific name obviously refers to the large, bell-shaped flowers that are rather sparsely produced from January to March. The drooping flowers vary in colour, but are usually of an orange hue and netted with red veins. The plant is of a semi-climbing habit, not free enough to train to the rafters of a greenhouse, but it may well be trained around stakes about two feet in height. A compost of loam, leaf- mould and silver sand makes a suitable rooting medium. It is increased by division at the time HOW TO MAKE AND MAINTAIN IT. {Concluded from page 60.) Borders of One Colour. — Touching on one- ardens, the authoress of a recent volume on herbaceous plants states she has never seen one that gave her satisf actio! . That in general is perhaps too sweeping a state- ment. To a great extent it is, however, true, and unless the composer is absolutely sure of the colours of the various plants, and also their dis- abilities as mere plants, as well as their strong points, one-colour schemes are assuredly specu- lative. The least difficult, which is equivalent to saying the colours harmonise best, are yellows running from cream to dark brown, and pinks to crimson, blues being the least satisfactory, probably on account of the sparsity of plants to choose from. A very charming com- position is efiected with yellow and white, being careful to reject dead whites and choosing yel- lowish and greenish whites. The past season I introduced deep pink among yellow, with which it goes very well. Another combination of a few simple colours that is very satisfying is of mauve, violet and pink to rose salmon. White and mauve of varying depths of tone are also worth trying. But it must be understood that in each and every one of these the range of plants is limited, not so much because the number of species or varieties is few, but because one must be sure of the proper shades , and wherever or when- ever it happens that one or more plants of a wrong note are in- troduced, then removal and sub- stitution must take place as soon as the mistake shows itself. On the whole, for general purposes a mix- ture of colours is to be preferred, and more particularly for borders which are kept gay for a long period. In these it is possible to plant so that special colours may give a character to the border at difierent times — the Daffodil season, yellow ; Delphiniums, blue ; Asters,, grey. A Study of Floral Colours shows that strength is essential, especially in blues. The blue of Cornflower at a distance fades to grey, and lovely- as is the blue of Endive and Succory, the general effect is the same or a little less pronounced. Therefore, to secure a telling blue effect in a large border, that of Aconitum autumnale and Larkspur CAMPANULATA, 72 THE GARDEN. [February 7, 1914. should be chosen in preference to true blues. Two of our borders were planted with various mauve plants last season, with lavender and single blue Asters to give tone. Both the last named failed, and the effect was rather dull. The new lavender East Lothian Stock would have been better than either of these. In pinks it hardly matters how- faint the shade may be. They are always effective, but to get the desired effect at a distance it is essential to employ a deeper tone, though there is a danger of happening on magenta. Lilium tigriuum, splendens especially, affords a nice effect which attracts the eye. Orange African Marigold is also valuable, and an even deeper tone is given by Montbretia Vulcan, one of the best for border decoration ar.d almost similar in colour to Hek- nium macrocephalum cupreum. Tithonia speciosa, if not so shy to flower, would be an invaluable plant, deeper in colour than any of the above. For scarlet. we can go to Dahlias, to Carnations, Pentstemons, Gladioli, Gilia coronopifolia. Antirrhinums and Phloxes for the very best. Phloxes are also valuable for violet and plum colours. In Arranging Colours it is not unusual to employ white to deaden the jar incident to two or more colours clashing. It is a simple expedient, but not to be generally commended. It is very much better to work out schemes in which white need be used only for its intrinsic value, the number of plants available for colour contrasts and harmonies being far beyond the requirements of any garden. White in conjunction with blue of all shades is much to be preferred to white with reds. Cream goes very well with blue, and a few years ago I had the common Gardener's Garters run through clumps of Salvia patens, which found many admirers. In arranging clumps for effect, one should always endeavour to get the best. Tiger Lilies, for ex- ample, are sometimes arranged with white and with red. But the best effect is derived from brown, which is secured by a good strain of French Marigolds, some of which are a dark mahogany. Other Combinations of the greatest value are those of plants of one colour, but of different habits and heights. Thus, Ageratum mexicanum, either ■dwarf or tall, goes well with a Larkspur of the same shade, also with Statice incana, also mauve. I had last season dwarf Ageratum with Aster Amellus bessarabicus, and in other colours there are very many plants which are equally desirable arranged together. It must be understood that these combinations are not simply for bedding effects, but parts of the floral arrangement of ordinary mixed borders. Another very charming plant not nearly so much used as its merits deserve is Verbena venosa. Not only is the colour — violet — good, but the habit of the plant gives it an additional value for mixing with other plants taller than itself or of tqua) I height. With mauve it is very pretty, but better with deep rose or light salmon. It is easily raised from seeds, which sometimes lie a long time before ' they germinate, and also by means of root cuttings, while in many parts of the country it comes . through the majority of winters with the help of a little surface protection. The writers who ridicule the custom of using the same plants or colours over and over again in a border have never discovered how an exten- sive border is to be well furnished by any other means. Nor is there any need to limit that style of planting, provided the same plants are I give an effect wliich dwarfer plants fail to give. Some years ago I had pure white, and the effect was, as one gentleman said, bordering on the unreal. Rose Queen is also a thoroughly effective variety, and if one could be certain that singles would come true from seed, there would be the loveliest effects conceivable by planting in this way. I have already mentioned Sweet Peas as a backing for mi.xed borders, and these in selected colours may be used in those, with another backing trained pillar fashion and near the back, with very good effect. Only it is essential the colours be carefully chosen so that they do not clash with the scheme in general. A plant of Tropaeolum aduncum run through the Sweet Peas maybe permitted; the flowers brighten up the pillars exceedingly. In conclusion, be chary to adntit any plant the merits of which have to be discovered. " None but the best," no matter how common they are in colour and habit, must be the motto. Have new combinations every year to ensure the interest of a jaded constituency ; cultivate the soil in the most thorough manner ; weed out undesirables as they make themselves kno%vn for what they are, and replace with better ; and never be ashamed to ask advice from those whose colour sense is better educated than your own. R. P. Brotherston. Tyninghame, Pyestonkirk, N.B. NEW ORCHIDS. CYPRIPEDIUM DESDEMONA, A NEW AND BOLD VARIETY WITH A BROAD DORSAL SEPAL AND WAVY WINGS. arranged differently and with other combinations. Some plants may be used in every little gap without giving the least feeling of sameness. Such are tall Antirrhinums of a colour that goes well with the majority of the other plants, yellow, crimson and yellow, and white for preference. Lobelia cardinalis and Stock-flowered Larkspurs are others ; and if one desired a pronounced blue effect, there is nothing better than the double blue form of the last named planted here and there all over the border. A special colour in Hollyhocks if run through the border is also valuable, and more so because the tall spikes Onk of the most striking novel- ties at the exhibition of the Royal Horticultural Society held on January 27 was the new Cypripedium named Desdemona, shown by Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Hayward's Heath. One plant only was shown, carrying a massive flower the general colour of which was a bronzy green. The raisers of new Cypri- pediums aim to procure flowers with ever-increasing breadth in the dorsal or hood, and this character is very pronounced in the variety Desdemona, which was granted an award of merit. In this variety the dorsal has a white, undulated margin, while deep chocolate markings over a groundwork of amber and green occupy the centre. Messrs. J. and A. McBean of Cooks- bridge gained the high award of a first-class certificate for a lovely variety of Cattleya Tityus named A. McBean. The variety was a great improvement on the type, both in colour and form. Mrs. Norman Cookson, Oakwood, Wylani, gained two awards of merit for Odontiodas witli the varieties Doris and Sibyl, these being the pick of an excellent collection, in which the rich colour tones of the densely marked flowers blended in perfect harmony. On this occasion no awards for novelties were made by the floral committee of the Royal Horticiiltunil Society. February 7, 191 4. THE GARDEN. 73 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS FLOWERING SHRUBS FOR SMALL GARDENS. FOLLOWING my article which appeared on page 6oi of November 29, 1913, issue, I give herewith another dozen shrubs suitable for small gardens. Cytisus praecox. — Some people object to this on account of the somewhat disagreeable smell of its cream-coloured flowers. But it blooms so freely and grows so luxuriantly that it should be included in all shrubberies. It blossoms in May, and can be grown nearly anywhere and in the poorest soil. Syringa vulgaris Souv. de Louis Spaeth is one of the best of the garden Lilacs. It grows quite 12 feet high if planted in good, loamy soil, and bears immense heads of reddish flowers in May. All sucker growths must be removed from tlie base. Syringa persica. — Everyone who sees this' shrub wishes to plant it. It is a miniature Lilac growing from 3 feet to 4 feet high, with an ample system of slender branches, which bear a profusion of elegant panicles of fragrant, lilac-coloured flowers in May. Plant in ordinary loamy soil and do no regular pnming. Sophora viciifolia is a new Chinese shrub which grows at least 6 feet or S feet high, producing dainty, pinnate leaves and white, violet-shaded. Pea- shaped flowers in June. It must be given good, loamy soil, have no root disturbance, and receive no regulai pruning. Cydonia Maulei superba is a very rich coloured Japanese Qmnce. It forms a bush of spreading outline 2 feet or so high. The flowers are rich red in colour, and mature during March and April. If planted in ordinary good garden soil, it gives uo trouble and requires no primuig- Philadelphus Lemoinei erectus may be considered one of the best ot the dwarf Mock Oranges. When planted in rich, loamy soil it forms shoots 2 feet to 3 feet long in a single season, which bear fragrant, white flowers from almost every leaf-axil in June. As soon as the flowers fade, all flowering shoots must be cut away to allow young ones to grow from near the ground. Escallonia philippiana is the hardiest of the Escallonias. It forms a deciduous bush about three feet high, and bears a profusion of white, <^tar-shaped flowers in July. Ordinary good garden soil suits it, and no regular pruning is necessary. BerberiS Stenophylla. — Perhaps if any one shrub is more generally useful than another, it is this, for it is a good evergreen and a first-rate flowering shrub. In ordinary garden soil it grows into a bush 6 feet to 8 feet high, with a very wide spread, and is useful as a specimen bush and as an occupant of the shrubbery. It stands pruning well, and is sometimes used for hedges. No regular pruning is necessary. It must be placed in a permanent position while quite small. The fragrant, golden blossoms are borne in profusion during April and May. Hypericum moserianum is a dwarf St. John's Wort of hybrid origin. It grows from 12 inches to 15 inches high, and bears large, golden blossomsduring the summer and autumn. Plant in good, loamy soil, and cut back and thin out the branches in spring. Robinia hispida inermis is the best form of the Rose Acacia, an American shrub with bunches of rose-coloured. Pea-shaped flowers which mature in June. Planted in loamy soil it grows well and blossoms each year. It must not be exposed to rough winds, and does not require pruning. Ceanothus Gloire de Versailles. — Of the numerous kmds of summer and autumn flowering Ceanothuses this is one of the best, for its large panicles of blue flowers are borne continuously from July to November if the weather continues generally grown in a greenhouse. It is mairdy a question of the proper preparation of the plants several months before they arc required for the actual work uf planting. Suitable Plants for the Purpose. — Bougain- villeas. Plumbagos, Palms, Fuchsias, Cannas, Swainsonas, Fatsia japonica, Dracaena indivisa, and Heliotrope. Small plants are not of much use ; they must be pyramid-shaped, half standards or standards, with main single stems for preference. Repotting. — A compost of fibrous loam, leaf- soil, rotted maniire and sand will do nicely. This must be made firm when potting is being carried out. Fuchsias should be started in the same waj' and receive a pruning ; but when the young shoots are an inch long the plants must be turned CYTISUS PR.-ECOX, A MAY-VLOWERING BROOM SUITABLE FOR A SMALL GARDEN. mild. In the open it grows about four feet high, and against a wall three times that height. It must not be planted in very cold places. Ordinary garden soil suits it, and the branches must be cut back fairly hard in February each year. Cotoneaster rotunditolia. — This Himalayan shrub is not planted for the sake of its flowers, but for its bright red fruits, which ripen in Sep- tember and hang until spring. It forms a bush 3 feet to 4 feet high if planted in ordinary garden soil, and does not require pruning. It will be noted that Rhododendrons, Heaths and other shrubs of a like character have been omitted. The omission is due to their imsuit- ability for soil containing lime. D. PREPARING GREENHOUSE PLANTS FOR BEDDING. In sheltered positions in the flower garden charm- ing effects may be secured by using plants out of the pots and the old ball of soil much reduced, so that the cultivator may be able to place the roots in a smaller pot, as it will be necessary to repot these plants into larger pots once prior to planting them out. The roots of Cannas must now be placed in gentle heat to induce a steady, sturdy growth. When all have made good progress, gradual hardening must be commenced at the end of -April, so that all wUl be in a fit condition to transfer to the flower garden the first week in June. Plants from Seeds. — Seeds of Zea japonica variegata, Ricinus Gibsonii (Castor Oil Plant) Centaureas, Nicotiana affinis, N. Sanders, and others possessing fine foliage, should be sown, and the resultant seedlings grown on in a rich compost. They must be grown to possess large, well-coloured leaves, and to this end avoid any check to growth, and very carefully harden the plants so as to retain the lower leaves. Avo\. THE GARDEN. [February 7, 1914. GARDENING OF THE WEEK FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. Figs in Pots. — Trees that were started into growth early in December will now be sufficiently advanced to benefit by frequent applications of manure-water from the farmyard. Fig trees require a large quantity of moisture at the roots during the growing season, and, when this is applied, sufficient should be given to moisten the soil to the drainage. Cuciunbers. — If seeds were sown at the begin- ning of the year, the plants should now be ready to put out. Let the house be thoroughly cleaned and the walls whitewashed with hot lime. A hot-bed of leaves and stable litter may then be made up and small mounds of soil placed 4 feet apart on the surface of the bed, which, when finished, should be within iS inches of the trellis. Tomatoes. — Plants raised in Oclober and wintered near the glass in 6-inch pots should now be showing flower and ready for their final potting. Ten-inch pots are best for the purpose. The soil may consist of three parts turfy loam and the remainder of leaf-soil. Another sowing may be made now for succession. The first day of iVIarcli is quite early enough to sow seeds of approved open-air varieties. Pot Vines. — Early pot Vines will now have set their fruits, and will require careful treatment. Top-dress the pots with loam and cow-manure, and give frequent wateruigs of liquid manure from the farmyard ; but care must be taken that this is not too strong, or the young roots may suffer in consequence. Six medium-sized bunches will be sufficient for each Vine to carry, and these should be distributed evenly over the Vine. Stop the strongest shoots at the second leaf beyond the bunch, in order to give the bunches near the bottom of the trellis a chance to develop. A temperature of 70° at night and 85° by day with sun-heat will ^uit them well. Plants Under Glass. Amaryllis Bulbs intended for flowering during the spring and early summer should be examined, the old soil carefully removed, and the bulbs potted in a compost of light, turfy loam and old lime rubble. Make the soil moderately firm in clean, well-crocked pots. If required, the first batch may be placed in gentle bottom-heat at once to start them into growth. Overpotting must be avoided, as they flower quite freely in 6-inch or 7-inch pots, and are better suited for decoration. Chrysanthemums. — The earliest batch of cut- tings should now be potted into 4-inch pots and placed on a bed of fine sifted ashes quite near the roof glass. A brick pit where gentle fire-heat can be applied in times of sharp frost will suit them very well ; but this artificial heat must be avoided as far as possible, as any forcing of the plants into growth now is almost certain to have a detrimental effect on them later in the season. .Avoid overcrowding, and ventilate the pit freely as soon as the plants have made new roots. Water with great care, and never until the soil is dry, when a good soaking should be given. Gloxinias. — The largest of the old tubers should now be shaken out of the soil and placed in shallow pans or boxes. Cover lightly with fine sandy soil, and, when sufficient growth has been made, the tubers may be potted into their flowering pots, which should be quite clean and well crocked. Seed-Sowing. — Seeds should now be sown of Begonias, Gloxinias, Amaryllis, Clerodend'rons, Celosias, Coleus, GreviUeas and Eucalyptus. Fine sifted soil composed of sandy loam and decayed leaves in equal parts should be used. Cover the seeds lightly and protect with sheets of glass in a temperature of 70°. The Flower Garden. Seed-Sowing. — Various seeds should be sown now, whicli include Antirrhinums, Dianthuses, Carnations, Pentstemons, Aquilegias and Begonias. All these should be sowii in gentle heat, with the exception of Begonias, which should be placed in a temp:rature of 65'^. Rhododendrons and Azaleas in permanent beds should receive a top-dressing of decaved cow-manure, turfy loam and peat in equal parts before the season is too far advanced. These are surface-rooting plants, and should never be dis- turbed by forking the soil. The surface may be lightly raked over with an iron rake previous to applying the surface-dressing, which should be made tight by treading while dry. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Bush Fruit. — If not already done, the pruning of all bush fruit trees should be finished as soon as possible. Newly planted trees may be cut hard back. 111 order to shape them for'antjther year. With regard to dessert Gooseberries, the trees should be well thimied out, and, where the spurs are too numerous, every second spur may be removed, in order to admit light and air to the centre of the tree and render the gathering of the fruit less difficult. All side shoots of Red and White Currants may be pruned to two or three buds from the main branch, leaving the leading shoot 8 inches or 9 inches long. Black Currants require a different method of pruning. As most of the fruit is borne on the young wood, let the trees be well thinned by removing as much of the old wood as can be spared, and encourage the strong, young growths from the base, which may be left unpruncd. The Kitchen Garden. Chicory, — This valuable winter salad is easily forced, The roots may be placed in any dark chamber with a temperature of 60°. If only a small supply is necessary, the roots may be placed close together in 7-inch pots. If watered well when potted, no more moisture mil be necessary, and the crop should be ready to cut within three weeks. Rhubarb Roots may be lifted and put in gentle heat. Any place with a temperature of 50° will answer the purpose. If fresh plantations are necessary for the purpose of producing crowns for forcing, the gromid should be trenched and a good dressing of manure given. Plant in rows 5 feet apart and 3 feet in the row. Horse-Radish. — The present is the best time to make plantations of Horse-radish in deep, rich soil. Trench the ground and give a good dressing of decayed manure. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Rhubarb may now be safely planted, and 111 doing so see that the ground has received a liberal supply of good farmyard manure. Select the strongest crovms, and allow plenty of room between the rows, finishing by giving the groimd a good mulching of stable litter. Potatoes for Seed. — Go over the Potatoes intended for seed and box the varieties for sprout- ing. Too much importance cannot be attached to this practice, as it adds materially to the quality and yield. The boxes of tubers should be kept in a cool, airy place where they will be safe from frost. There seem to be conflicting opinions as to whether the seed should be changed each year or not. If one is careful that the seed selected is true to the type and changed to different parts of the garden, I see no reason why seed should not last for a year or two. Brussels Sprouts. — Where Brussels Sprouts are required for September, either for exhibition or for ordinary kitchen use, a small sowing may now be made in a cutting-box and placed in a cold frame. Mint. — Several roots of Mint may be lifted and placed in boxes, or planted at the back of a Peach-house border. These will force readily, and will come in handy where Mint sauce is wanted for early lamb. Peas. — Should any seeds of last season's Peas be left over, they may be sown rather thickly in cutting-boxes and put on the pipes in a warm house. If they have been previously soaked in water for a few hours, the seedlings will come through the soil in about a week. When about six inches high, they may be cut and used as a vegetable for soup, to which I am told they add a delicious fla\-our. The Flower Garden. Carnations. — If seeds are sown now, plants from these will provide a wonderfully effective displa\- when the ordinary border varieties have passed out of bloom. Many fine strains are now to be had from our leading nurserymen, and if these receive careful attention from the seedling stage, it is surprising what a fine show they will make. Verbenas. — If Verbenas have not already been sown, no time should be lost in doing so. The variety Miss Willmott is somewhat hard to winter, and many experience great difficulty in getting together the necessary stock. Last season I dispensed with cuttings and grew my entire stock from seed, and I was rewarded by the best display of Verbenas I have seen. D" not sow in much heat, otherwise the plant? will become weakly. An ordinary greenhouse temperature will suit them best. Subtropical Plants. — Where plants such as Solanums, Castor Oil and Wigandias are required as dot plants am'ing the summer-bedding subjects, no time should be lost in sowing the seed. Solanum Pyracanthum is very striking as a dot plant. Dahlia Tubers may now be gone over and placed in a warm vinery to produce cuttings. This will apply more particularly to the better sorts. The Collarette varieties sho^vn by Messrs. Dobbie of Edinburgh have created quite a sensation among florists, and are likely to be much in demand. Plants Under Glass. Primulas. — These will now be growing freely, and ought to be given plenty of room to develop the foliage, which in itself is very decorative. As the pots begin to get filled with roots, occasional applications of liquid manure should be given. Cinerarias. — The stellata type of Cineraria is undoubtedly a very handsome plant when well grown. Where large specimens are required, they may be potted into '8-inch or g-inch pots, and as growth advances give plenty of surface feeding. Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums. — Where large speci- mens of these popular Geraniums are required for exhibition or decorative purposes, the present is a good time to make a selection of the most suitable plants. These may be pruned and trained, and as growth commences they may be repotted in about the same sized pot and kept growing on. Chrysanthemums. — Examine cuttings of Chry- santhemums each day, and those that have rooted may be taken out and placed on a shelf near the glass in the same house. The idea should be ti' keep the cuttings as sturdy as possible and avoid all traces of coddlmg. Roses in Pots. — ^These will be pushing up their flower-buds now, and may be fed with liquid manure from time to time. Ventilating should be done with great care, as the cold air from the out- side has a very injurious effect on the young leaves. Somehow or other mildew will make its appearance at this stage, and must be held in check. I have found syringing with Bentley's Mildew Destroyer as good as anything for this purpose. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Morello Cherries. — Where a large number of these Cherries are grown, the nailing or tying is a long and tedious job, and as these are usualh- on a north wall, the work can only be done on fine days. Care should be taken not to over- crowd the shoots or tie them up in threes and fours, as one sometimes sees. When the tying has been completed, it will be well to give the trees a good mulcliing of farmyard manure. Recently Planted Fruit Trees. — There seems to be a great diversity of opuiion as to whether trees should be pruned the first season or not, and I daresay there is a good deal that might h< said 'HI both sides. Pers'inally, I am inclined to think that they are better left alone the first season, as, if hard pruned back, they seem to make such rampant growth, and are not si> easily checked afterwards. John Hhuicate. (Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.) Hopetoun Gardens, South Qucensferry, N.B. February 7, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 75 IS THE DAFFODIL A FLORIST'S FLOWER? "YES" AND "NO." (Continued from page 63.) 1MUST ask "Somerset" another Icadiiif; question, or, rather, I must fire off a series of short, jerky interrogations to stUl further, as I think, drive the nail hoinc. Who are the people who pay the higher prices ? What do they do it for ? Is it onh' for the same purpose as a breeder of cattle buys a pedigree bull ? Where would the market of the hybridist be if It were not for the show people as well ? Are not the breeders and the buyers of stock often exhibitors themselves ? Then, if a show is thus predicated, must there not be some general agreement about the " points " of a flower ? I am glad that " Somerset " puts me down as having a " too catholic sense of beauty to make a sound florist of the Glenny school," because I think it is true, inasmuch as I fully recognise that the Narcissus family is capable of giving us many and varied types, of each of which I could say, " How happy could I be with either, were the other fair charmer away," only for " either " I would put " any," and I would make "charmer" plural. I even think I have a n\ore catholic naind than " Somerset " liimself, for I rank a flower of the Frank Miles type as every bit as worthy of show honours as Homespun, and my favourite Countess of Southesk as White Queen. In writing what I did of Cossack — " Its round, overlapping perianth and its beautiful deep red eye are just what judges like to see at shows " — I rather meant readers to infer that such were not exactly my own sentiments. Even when " Daffodils " was written, I grew weary of red eyes and circular perianths ; and had I given my decisions when adjudicating in competitions on my own individual likings or dislikings instead of on what I felt was the united consensus of show people's opinion, I do not tliink my services would have been requisitioned a second time. Since then, however, a change has taken place, and there is a decided tendency, which I am heartily glad to see, for a taking in of many types in place of just a few. ,A.gain I ask : Is not this a stronger reason than ever for the adoption of some fixed canons to guide com- petitors and judges alike ? The only valid argu- ment against this is that there should be no shows at all. Does anyone wish this ? A last shot in support of " Yes." After all, is not showing a great pleasure to a large and increasing number of cultivators ? Must not they be catered for ? The most successful single flower society of the present time is the National Rose Society. It is " miles ahead " of any other. I note how it keeps putting on new shows. First a metro- politan, then a provincial, then an autumn, and now a spring. The Rose community want them and they get them. The exhibitions delight many who are not growers for show. So it is witli the Daftodil. Now for some remarks to support the " No " answer to my query. I compare the Daffodil with the Tulip ; they have so much in common. If in the fifties and sixties I had asked, " Is the Tulip aj florist's flower?" my reply would have ended with " Yes." There was no garden then to tliink about in the same sense that there is to-day. The by-products of the show were not thought of then. The modern Cottage garden forms are the basic slag rescued from the great licap of cast-offs. The very fact of having a voracious garden that must be fed no less in spring than in summer lias changed the outlook entirely. Tulips in olden days were confined to particular beds and arranged in serried ranks with such minute care that a " cabinet " for summer storage was the necessary adjunct of every Tulipist. I feel fairly certain that they were hardly ever to be seen elsewhere in the ordinary borders. Now, even Mr. Needham grows a few others to brighten up his garden, and in doing this I think he is getting out of the- condescending-to-the-popular-taste stage and be- ginning to really like them. Who knows but what he may be an exhibitor at the May- flowering show at ^'incent Square on May r4 next ? In all this my meaning is that with the coming of the garden there has arisen a need for a new type of Tulip — tall, strong and effective in colour, such as we get in the Cottage and Darwins, and, to a lesser extent, in those new redivivus types the Rembrandts and the robust striped generally. In the -case of the Daffodil there has not been the " cast off and lost " stage. Anything now up to show excellence has been at once tried in or for the garden, and so it has come about that the Daffodil has blossomed out as the Rose, and that there is going on now in all large em- poriums, as well as in the garden of the amateur, a testing and sorting of which the new Royal Horti- cultural Society's Rules for .Awards, which come into force in r9i4, are the outward and visible sign. The Daffodil is not a florist's flower alone. It is a garden flower too. It will grow in beds and borders, in grass and in rockwork, in pots and in boxes for cutting. The family pav us good old-fashioned visits of six months' duration, but it is not a limpet like the Perpetual-flowering Carnation and the Rose. December sees the start and May the finish. I fancy we like it all the better because it is not. Enough has been said to show that we must look after the Daffodil's non-show side. I am one with "Somerset" here, at all events, and I quite grant that many which are not suitable for showing have their uses here, and these, no less than the show varie- ties, want their Glenny. For instance, I cannot advise the purchase of red eyes which fade after half a day's sun, nor yet such miffy subjects as Lemon Queen, if it is for the garden that they are wanted ; while, on the other hand, no praises can be too loud for some of the new Giant Leedsiis like The Fawn and H. C. Bowles. The Royal Horticultural Society will be the Glenny here, or shall I say they are going to try to be through their Narcissus committee, who now only want the flowers — with the all-important slip faithfully filled up — to be placed before them, and they will then point out by their awards the purposes for which they are most suited. Joseph Jacob, complete experiments of Dr. Voelcker in the sixties clearly showed this on a large number of soils ; the salt produced plant food in the soil in the shape of various chlorides, including sometimes ammonia, which it liberated from manure, guano and other forms of nitrogen. Seeing that salt has tliis powerful action, it is probably wise to use it in moderate amounts only, and it must not be looked upon merely as a purifier which can be used without any limit. No less an authority than Sir John Lawes even considered salt detrimental, and we know its effect on weeds when used in excess. It seems likely enough that it is the hydrochloric acid in salt that does the mischief, if this occurs, for chlorides are well known to be injurious trj certain crops. This is probably why muriate of potash does not succeed so well a4 the sulphate ; in fact, it seems to injure Potatoes, Sugar Beet and Tobacco, maldug the first named waxy, preventing the ready crystallisation of sugar in Beet, and in Tobacco impairing the quality. Salt has the property, like other saline solutions, of clearing muddy water, and so it may be useful in clay in preventing the puddling action which nitrate of soda causes. It has other effects, sometimes questionable or harmful, and so it shoidd be used with caution, especially as large quantities seem to be loss favourable than small ones. Gervaise Turnbull. THE WALNUTS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. T THE ACTION OF SALT ON SOIL Since the time of Lord Bacon at least, the advan- tage or otherwise of salt as a manure has been an unsettled question, except with certain crops, and still more uncertain is the method of its working. It has always been a puzzle to chemists. Its connection with potash is now better known, however, or, rather, the relations of potash and HE Walnuts, or species of Juglans, are an important group of trees, ftr, in addition to producing valuable timber, the fruits of most kinds are edible, while all the species form ornamental trees with distinct and decorative foliage. They are credited with being rather tender, but this only applies to young, fast-grown trees and to premature growth in spring. After a mild winter young shoots are formed earlier than usual, and they sometimes fall a prey to late frosts. So far as winter frost is concerned, they are quite hardy, and well-developed specimens of the common Wahiut are found as far North as Aberdeen. As a rule, those growing in the South of England fruit more satisfactorily than those iJi other districts, trees growing in the North only perfecting fruits occasionally. The Walnuts require good, deep, loamy soil, such as may be expected to produce good Oaks. .As a rule, they are planted as ornamental trees in parks and gardens, rather than to form woods or plantations, but there appears to be little reason why one or two species should not be used by the forester in the South of England. The timber is always valuable, while that which is specially well figured commands a fancy price. A verj- small quantity of timber is cut in this country, and the bulk of that required by manufacturers is obtauied from France, Italy, Asia Minor and North America. That from the first three countries named is the wood of the common Walnut (Juglans regia), and that from North America is the Black Walnut (J. nigra). It is used largely by cabinet and furniture manufacturers, and is one of the most popular woods for the manufacture of gim-stocks. The fruits of the common Walnut are in demand in European coimtries for dessert. soda. There is no doubt, it would appear from experiment, of the solvent action of the I and the fruits of other species are used in their soda in common salt on the soil. The very | respective countries for the same purpose, .^.n 76 THE GARDEN. [February 7, 1914. oil is also obtained from the kernels of Walnuts, which is used in food preparations and paints, according to the method of extraction, that produced by cool extraction being favoured for the former, and that expressed by heat for the latter purpose. All the species are propagated by seeds and the varieties by grafting. When seeds can be planted in the positions the trees are to occupy, growth is, as a rule, more satisfactory than when the young trees have to be transplanted. When groivn in nurseries they must be transplanted frequintly. otherwise long roots will be produced at the expense of fibrous roots. Although there are comparatively few species of Juglans, they are widely distributed, for they are found from Eastern Europe through Persia and Asia Minor to the Himalaya, China and Japan, while there are also representatives in North America. In addition to the species, there are several varieties of the common Walnut, and also a number of hybrids, which claim J. regia for one parent. Juglans regia, the best known member of the family, is found from Greece through a considerable part of South-Eastem Europe to Persia, Asia Minor and the Himalaya, while a form is also present in China. When growing imder exceptionally favourable conditions it attains a height of from 80 feet to 100 feet, with a tnmk upwards of 15 feet in girth, but it is more frequently met with between 50 feet and 80 feet in height. It is easily recognised by reason of the silvery bark of the yoimger wood and by its pinnate, glabrous leaves. In other species the leaves are clothed with soft hairs. The leaves are usually from 8 inches to 10 inches long, and are composed of from five to nine ellip- tical or ovate leaflets. The male flowers are in catkins from 2 inches to 5 inches in length, and the female flowers appear in small clusters. It is grown in this country for ornament and fruit. Large numbers of trees are grown in France, Germany and Switzerland fir the sake of the truit. Some trees form large burrs on the trunks, and the wood from them is usually beautifully marked. It is cut into veneer and used for the better quaUties of furniture. Several well-marked varieties have been given varietal names. Distinct ones are J. laciniata, with finely divided leaves ; J. maxima, with large fruits ; J, monophylla, in which the leaves may consist of one, two or three lobes ; J. praparturiens, a lorm which originated in France and is remarkable on account of its coming into fruit at a very early age ; J. heterophylla, with leaves of various shapes, sometimes almost normal and at others havong the leaflets almost as finely divided as in J, laciniata ; and J. serotina, said to be a Chinese form, which commences to grow somewhat later than the type. J. nigra is an important North American species which, under the most satisfactory conditions, grows 150 feet high, with a girth of 15 feet or 20 feet. Numerous trees in the South of England approach or exceed 100 feet in height, with a girth of from 9 feet to 12 feet. Its timber is of a rich dark brown or blackish colour, and is much appreciated by furniture-makers. The leaves are handsome, up to 3 feet long on vigorous trees, and composed of from fifteen to twenty-three leaflets. The globular fruits have very thick shells and small kernels. This species is worth planting under forest conditions in the South of England. It is commonly called the Black Walnut. J. Oinerea. — This is the Butternut of the United States. Forming a handsome tree from 50 teet to 100 feet in height, it produces long, pinnate leaves, made up of from eleven to seventeen oblong, hairy leaflets, and bears its fruits in clusters of from three to five. The nuts are oblong, i J inches to 2i inches long, and the shells are deeply furrowed. The kernels are pleasantly flavoured and large. There are very few large trees in this country, one of the best being recorded as growing in the grounds of Mr. C. S. Dickens at Coolhurst, near Horsham. This exceeds 50 teet in height. J. cordiformis is a Japanese species, notable for its fine foliage and long racemes of male flowers It forms a tree 50 feet high and produces leaves between 2 feet and 3 feet in length, made up of from eleven to thirteen broadly oblong leaflets. The male flowers are green, and produced in drooping catkins i foot or more long. The female flowers are also borne in long catkins, and from four to six fruits may sometimes be seen on a single stalk. These fruits are heart-shaped and about an inch wide. The kernels are fairly large and pleasantly flavoured. J. mandshurica is a somewhat similar tree to the last named, but is a native of Amurland. It com- mences to grow early and is often injured by frost. J. pyriformis and J. vilmoriniana are hybrids between J. regia and J. nigra, combining the characters of both species ; and J. alata is a hybrid between J. cinerea and J. regia, its distinguishing features being intermediate between the two. Other species which may be obtained are J. californica, J. sieboldiana and J. rupestris. D.' BOOKS. Colour Standards and Nomenclature.* — This is the title of a very wonderful book, produced after much labour and expense by Mr. Robert Ridgway, the Curator of the Division of Birds in the United States National Museum. In the preface the author bemoans the lack of a colour standardisation, mainly, I take it, because it would be so exceedingly useful to ornithologists and other naturalists. He calls attention to the fact that he made an attempt more than twenty years ago to remedy the deficiency by publishing a book containing r86 samples of named colours. Naturally, these were found to be not nearly enough to be of any great use, so Mr. Ridgway set to work to enlarge and improve upon it. The result is the present edition of " Colour Standards and Nomenclature," containing no fewer than r,ii5 distinct shades of colour, each one in its proper place according to the ideal chromatic scale which he has adopted after, as it were, making the solar spectrum " loop the loop." The means by which he has arrived at all the different shades portrayed from the six fundamental colours of red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and violet occupies the first part of the most instructive prologue. This in turn is followed by discussions on " Colour Names " and " Colour Terms." In the first of these we have the pros and cons for the adoption of a recog- nised standard, not only of colour, but of colour names, and I think the author has very little difficulty in showing that the one is as necessary as the other. It is of no use to have a purple colour standard unless everyone agrees to put into the background his owai preconceived idea of what purple is, and eliminating the personal equation • " Colour Standiirds and Nomonclaturo," by Robert Kid^way. Eleven hundred and fifteen nameti colours; flfty-three coloured plates ; 8vo.. cloth ; 1913 ; price £1 15s. Eni-'llsh ai-'cnts : Wesley and Son, 28, E.wex Street, strand. altogether, to adopt that of the standard. The latter part is taken up with definitions of " colour terms." Here, again, when we speak or write of " pale colour," *" broken colour," " hue,'* " tint," " shade," " tone," &c,, we must all mean exactly the same thing by these expressions ' or words, or we shall be at cross purposes and be but little " forrarder." The remaining pages contain technical tables on the composition of colours. Twenty-four shades are so arranged that they are easily referred to. I am only just begimiing to make any practical use of it, but my first impressions are decidedly favourable. It is very handy, much more so than the Colour Chart (Le Repertoire des Couleurs), which I have always found rather clumsy to handle. It contains about the same number of shades as the older work ; while its names, such as endive blue, vetiver green and xanthine orange, although they sound strange and imfamiliar, are no more so than those of the Chart, and, like them, they can be referred to by number. I expect it will be foimd easier to match the colour of the object with that in the book if a piece of white cardboard, with a small space cut out to exactly fit the oblong on the page, is used. By this means much more exact correspondence will be obtained between the one and the other, for necessarily^ as the work is only in octavo size, the shades are somewhat close together. I am looking forward to the time when I can call it an old friend. I may be mistaken, but somehow or another I feel this is what it is going to be. — Joseph Jacob. Albury Park Trees and Shrubs.* — About three years ago a catalogue of the trees and shrubs of Syon House Gardens was favourably reviewed in these columns. The book under review forms a companion to the Syon House list. It is compiled by the same author and has been undertaken at the request of the Duke of Northumberland, the owner of both the Syon House and Albury estates. Reference to Albury is frequent in horticultural literature, and the publication of a complete list ot the trees and shrubs of the estate forms very interesting reading. The following are selected from among the most remarkable of the trees recorded : Tilia argentea or White Lime, a magnifi- cent specimen with remarkably erect branches, 109 feet in height, girth 16 feet ; the lower branches have a spread of 88 feet, and it is claimed to be the finest example in cultivation. Populus serotina or Black Italian Poplar ; this tree is found to be not less than 150 feet, which is almost a record height for any tree in this country. Cedrus Libani or Lebanon Cedar ; the tallest at Albury is 127 feet high by 15 feet in girth. Three freer in a fine group on the lawn north of the house arc said to be among the tallest Cedars in cultivation. Sequoia gigantea or Wellingtonia ; the finest specimen at Albury has attained a height of 97 feet, by 8 feet 10 inches in girth. This must be one of the tallest Wellingtonias in cultivation. The Yew hedge at Albury is believed to have been planted about 1676 under John Eveljm's direction ; it is 448 yards in length with a gap of 90 leet. It contains about two hundred trees and the stumps 01 a number of those which have died. We have nothing but praise for the admirable and rarelul way in which this work has been prepared, and we hope the day is not far distant when lists on similar lines will be issued from other noted gardens and estates throughout the country. ' Catalojaie of Hardy Trce^ and Shrubs t^rowiny at Albury Park, Surrey. Compiled by A. Bruce Jackson For private distribution only. Printed by Weet, Newman and Co. ii^?i. GARDEN. -^^=^ No. 2204.— Vol. LXXVIII. February 14, 1914. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Editorial Notices. — In this and subsequent issues editorial notices will be found immediately preceding "Answers to Correspondents." This will enable us, at the request of a large number of readers, to devote more space to " Notes of the Week." An Annual for Present Sowing.— The beautiful old-fashioned annual named Salpiglossis is again becoming a favourite for summer bedding, and as the new shades are so fine, they are worth a little extra trouble in growing. As a rule, they are not sown early enough, at least in ^ cold districts. Seed may now be sown ^ in a cool house or frame, and an endeavour should be made to have good, sturdy plants for putting out in May. Propagating Delphiniums. — It is not too late to increase the stock of named varieties of Delphiniums. If young shoots are taken from the base of old plants which are starting into growth, placed in small pots of sandy soil and grown in a cold frame, they will form nice young plants for planting in April. By this means a succession of flowers will be obtained. The soil for these plants should be of a rich nature. An Interesting Rock Plant.— Erigeron mucronatus, with its small, Daisy-like flowers, should find a place in every rock ' garden. It is a Mexican species of pros- trate habit, and it flowers continuously from June till September. When first open the flowers are pink, afterwards changing to white, and as the flowers are continually opening, both colours are usually to be seen on the same stem. This Erigeron, which is synonymous with Vittadenia triloba, is seen to the best advantage when grown on a protected shelf in the rock garden and allowed to overhang large boulders. It is of perennial duration and may be raised from seed. The Sweet Pea Annual. — This, tne official organ of the National Sweet Pea Society, has just been published, and, as usual, contains a great deal of information that must be of con- siderable value to those who love and grow these flowers. We are pleased to find it much better illustrated than last year's " Annual," and the answers to the six questions sent out to members by the committee will provide much food for reflection. We wish an analysis of the first four of these answers had been included, as was done last year. The articles on Sweet Peas in Japan and early-flowering Peas in New Zealand prove that the cult of the flower is extending to many parts of the world. A copy has been sent to every member of the society. Non-members wishing to obtain it can do so from the secretary, Mr. H. D. Tigwell, Greenford, Middlesex, post free, 2S. Alpines Under Glass. — Visitors to Kew during the ne.xt month or two should make a point of visiting the Alpine House, a modest little structure that nestles away in a corner of the herbaceous grounds. Already it is gay with such Crocuses Ferns. The russet brown fronds of the latter, with the dead leaves of the trees that have nestled among them, make a charming foil for the glisten- ing white Snowdrops, and it is in such situations as these that their beauty remains unsullied for a long time. In some places the little purple- flowered hardy Cyclamen Coum is added to the Snowdrops, with excellent results. A Good Early Yellow Crocus. — One of the best Crocuses that are flowering in the open garden just now is C. chrysanthus, a brilliant yellow flower that makes a delightful patch of colour in the winter sun. Although it is not quite so sturdy as the yellow Dutch Crocus, the yellow hue is quite as good, and on account of its early flowering should be more widely grown. There is a good variety of it named fusco-tinctus, the outside of the petals being slightly tinted with a sort of brown shade. An Ancient Royal Fern. — An interest- ing specimen of the, Royal Fern (Osmunda regalis) may be seen in the Rock Garden at Kew. It was presented to Kew by the Director of the Imperial Botanic Garden, St. Petersburg, and is one of several which were originally obtained from near .Adler in the Caucasus, on the shores of the Black Sea. Estimated to be over a thousand years old, the plant has a large, woody rootstock, with a circum- ference of 5 feet at the base. It is about 2 feet 6 inches high, and has formed eight distinct stems, with ten separate crowns, having a diameter over three feet. An account of this plant is given in the Kew BuUetiit. 1913, page 359. Wart Disease of Potatoes. — Stringent regulations for preventing the spread of tnis disease of Potatoes have just been issued by the Board of .Agriculture and Fisheries. Potatoes are not to be planted in infected areas without a licence granted by an in- spector of the Board, and such licence may prescribe the varieties authorised to be planted. A licence is also necessary for the removalof Potatoes that have been grown in an infected area. Notification of the disease as Sieberi, chrysanthus A. E. Bowles and biflorus ; must be given by the grower to the Board, or Irises reticulata, Danfordiae and Tauri ; Cyclamen ' some person authorised by the Board to receive ibericum, and some of the earlier Saxifrages, such notice, and an inspector may, by notice In a week or two there will be a great many more served upon the occupier of any premises within flowers of interest, and, owing to the shelter, these an infected area, require him to lift any Potatoes ERIGERON MUCRONATUS OVERHANGING LARGE BOULDERS IN THE WISLEY ROCK GARDEN. can be studied in comfort. Snowdrops and Hardy Ferns. — A particularly pleasing picture in the woodland just now may be foQnd where hardy Ferns are grown beneath lofty trees, and Snowdrops planted between the suspected of being diseased. Those who grow Potatoes should at .'ince write to the Secretary, Board of Agriculture and Fisheries, 4, Whitehall Place, London, S.W., for copies of the Orders relating to wart disease. 78 THE GARDEN. [February 14. 1914. CORRESPONDENCE. {The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed b\ correspondents ) Antirrhinums as Bedding Plants. — I was pleased to see Mr. E. Harriss's letter, page 42, issue January 24, in which he recommends the above plants as bedding subjects. The inter- mediate section is the best for general purposes, but the tall-gro\\dng one is equally good for group- ing in borders that are wide enough. Nearly twenty years ago I grew Antirrhinums in a long border in front of a plant stove. The soil in this border was rich, and the plants formed very fine specimens, the foliage, as well as the flowers, being handsome. — G. G Cistus corbariensis. — The note and accompanying illustration of this charming Rock Rose which appeared in the issue of The Gar- den for January 31 would, no doubt, be interesting to many readers who take a delight in rock gardening. C. corbariensis is by far the best of all the family for growing in the rockery, being dwarfer and more diffuse in growth than any of the others in general cultivation. Regarding C. laurifolius, the writer of the note says it " does quite well even in Scottish gardens," evidently- inferring that this is the only variety suitable for growing so far North. This, however, is not the case, as we have grown several varieties quite successfully as far north as Perthshire, where they withstood our ordinary winters with impunity, although they did suc- cumb to one of extra severity. Varieties which grew well and flowered profusely were the one under notice, corbariensis, floren- tinus (both of which undoubtedly have a good deal of salvisefolius blood in them), ladaniferus, salvife- folius and laurifolius. The latter is exceedingly floriferous, and also ripens its seeds plentifullv. Last autumn we saved seeds of thi^ variety, which were sown a fort- night ago in heat, and they have already germinated. Rock Roses are liable to be damaged by heavy falls of snow, the branches break- ing off very readily when they are pressed downwards ; con- sequently, it is a good plan to support them on the approach of winter, so as to avoid damage from this cause. — W. L.. South Ayrshire. Primula pulverulenta Mrs. R. V. Berkeley. — The notes on this beautiful Primula by Dr. Macwatt and " A. D. M." in your issues of January 10, 24 and 31, both refer to the facts that it was raised from seed " sent home by Messrs. James Veitch and Sons' collector from China," and that it " has not produced seed in this country." But as they both stop at that point, it may have been overlooked that the variety Mrs. R, V. Berkeley is not unique, and failed to get an award at the International Show at Chelsea because an identical albino form had been shown in 1911. On June 6 of that year Mr. Lawrence Johnston showed two very fine forms of pulverulenta which he had raised from seed. One was the white form with orange eye, the other was a very soft pink form, and, under the impression that intermediate shades of colour would follow, the individual names that had been given to the two varieties were dropped, and they were unanimously given the award of merit under the name of the Hidcote strain. They failed to pass into commerce, how- ever, and seem to have been overlooked ; but we understand that they proved good seed-bearers, and that the progeny to a large extent bred true, which is the important point. Last year an albino pulverulenta identical with Mrs. R. V. Berkeley turned up in a batch of seedlings in an East Coast garden and also proved fertile. There is little doubt that seed is the only satisfactory method of propagating these short-lived Primulas, AN AVENUE Ol' ANCIENT YEWS IN THE GARDENS HALL, ESSEX. and is essential if the variety is to become popular. — R. W. Wallace. Yews and Churchyards. — Will you please give me, through the medium of The Garden. the reasons why Yew trees are so frequently grown in churchyards ? Thanking you in antici- pation,— M. H., Coventry. [The wood of the Yew, although ver\- hard, is also flexible and elastic. In olden times it was in great request for the making of bows, and for this reason it was planted in churchyards, where, we may assume, the inhabitants were free to cut their own bows. But it was not only in churchyards that Yews were planted. At Albury Park. Surrey, there remains an old \'ew hedge 10 feet high and a quarter of a mile long. At Copped Hal) in Essex, " at one time a mansion of pleasure and privacy for the .Abbots of Walthani," is a famous Yew avenue which we illustrate on this page. .At the Palace, Hadham, Hertfordshire, which once belonged to the Bishop of London, there stands a Yew hedge 3 yards thick ; and at Bishopsboume, near Canterbury, there are Y'ew hedges about 14 feet high and 10 feet thick. While the Yew is now a featiu-e of many Old English gardens, in former times men loved it with a certain reverence for the service it rendered them. Thus appropriately does Conan Doyle, in his " Song of the Bow," speak of its making : " Of true wood, of Yew wood, The wood of Enpilish bows ; So men who are free Love the old Yew tree. And the land where the Yew tree grows." — Ed.] Canker in Fruit Trees. — ■' Scientist," page 56, gives aJi exhaustive account of the cause of canker in fruit trees from his point of view, and would have us believe that all canker is caused by the fungus coming in contact with wounds in the bark. This is an assertion that I do not agree with, and for reasons which I will en- deavour to show. In some gardens the soil is a stiff loam on the surface and the subsoil is of a heavy character,not quite clay, but a near approach to it, and consequently 'if a cold nature, and in its natural condition very impervious to a free percolation of water from heavy rains. Wliere the surface soil is, say, from i foot to 2 feet deep, and of a free-rooting mediiuu, when well dug and constantly manured, but with the subsoil left in its natural condition, this leaves a hard, pan-like substance below, causing a lodgment for superfluOHS water, from which it cannot drain away rapidly. Such a combination of uncongenial circumstances is one of the main causes of canker. Now, trees so planted will develop much canker in certain varieties — as Lord Suffield, Potts' Seedling, Cox's Orange and Warner's King. Trees planted in the autumn quite free from any wound whatsoever — in fact, never pruned at that period — will develop canker the following, autumn. Such an instance as this does not bear out "Scientist's" views. Some of the worst cankered trees in soil of this description — those of Cox's Orange Pippin — if taken up, planted afresh with the roots much nearer the surface and in a compost of a lighter character, will grow away afterwards, feeling none the worse for their previous cankered state. If varieties were chosen that are not liable to canker in unsuit- able soil, we should not hear so much complaint about it. How is it we seldom hear of canker on Bramley's Seedling or Worcester Peannain growing next to affected trees and receiving the same treat- ment in pruning, and that sometimes pretty rough when the land between the trees is cropped with vegetables and horse labour is employed ? Undei such conditions trees do receive wounds in the bark. Writers with purelv scientific knowledge of tree growth do not consider the requirements of the roots imder exceptional circtunstances. — E. M. AT COPPED February 14, 1414. THE GARDEN. 79 The Daffodil in New Zealand. — It may interest your correspondent " F. H. C." whose remarks ap- pear in your columns of November i, 191 3, page 547. to know that New Zealand-raised seedlings occupied a much more prominent place in the Auckland DalTodil Show than appears in the newspaper cutting from which he quotes. In the cliampion vase class for fortj' varieties, the winner staged twenty-seven seedling varieties of his own raising, and won with points to spare from two other strong e.xhibits. In the single bloom open class, four out of the eight classes w*ere won with local- raised seedlings, and in one other class a local- raised seedling gained second place. Two very fine seedlings were also shown in the seedling classes. The Auckland daffodilists are very keen, and keep well up to date with new varieties, so that the honours obtained were won in good company. Whether this justifies the assertion " sic transit Gloria Mundi " I leave to " F. H. C."— The Judge at the Auckland Daffodil Show. Colour Effects with Annuals. — As men- tioned by your esteemed contributor Mr. R. P. Brotherston on page 30, issue January 17, the coloured illustration of annuals accompanying The Garden for January 3, together with notes relating thereto, raises several interesting points concerning colour combinations. The arrange- ment of colours is a matter for the display of individual taste to such an extent that it would be invidious to lay down any hard-and-fast rules with regard to it ; but, at the same time, it is well to bear in mind that certain glaring contrasts should be avoided if the best possible results are to be obtaiiied. In the above-mentioned coloured plate the sharply defined belts of brilliant blue, white and rosy carmine are, I venture to think, in vivid contrast rather than harmonious blending. May 1 suggest a colour-scheme to be worked out from one end of the border to the other, rather than across it ? By beginning at one end 'with white and cream flowers and following with yellow and orange to deep scarlet, a return could be made in reverse order to cream and white. Blue flowers could then be used, beginning with the palest shades and gradually deepening the tones until purple is reached, again reverting gradually to white. Then pinks could be introduced, the deeper rose shades following the paler tones, until crimson is arrived at. Then, again, by gradations of colour in reverse order, white could be reached. In all cases I would suggest that the palest shades be used near the front of the border. The diagram will explain the notes. i -O QJ S- dJ =3 .5 fl o c .2 * ^ ft rt S ^ Pi ^ 5 o .a .3 g o 5 tf: fc ^ , c^ fc U The asterisks indicate where the deepest tones should be used.— H. Turner, Serlhy Gardens, York. ^ FORTHCOMING EVENTS. February 17.— Broughty Ferry Horticultural Association's Meeting. The Women's Agricultural and Horticultural International Union Dinner. February 18.— Croydon Horticultural Mutual Improvement Society's Annual Dinner. February 19. — Linnean Society's Meeting. February 24.— Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting and Exhibition. Lecture at 3 p.m. on " The Uses of Explosives and of the Blow Lamp." SWEET PEA STREAK AND OTHER DISEASES. THERIi seems but little doubt thai some confusion has arisen with regard to the diseases from which Sweet Peas suffer. Until a few years ago mildew was the only fungus attack which Sweet Pea growers feared to any great extent, but with the advent of the wavy standard forms more attention began to be given to this always popular flower. More care was lavished upon it individually, more was expected of the individual, and more note was taken of a single death here and there. ' Streak. — Then we began to hear of streak. Sometimes a brown streak appeared in the stem, but in almost all cases of the disease the upper parts of the plants began to turn yellow, the leaves to become spotted, and a curious, curled appearance of the upper part of the stem and the flower-buds appeared. Attacked plants usually died more or less rapidly, and sometimes looked wilted for a time before they died outright. It seems clear now that more than one disease has been included under the term " streak." A very large number of plants said to be affected by streak reached the present writer, and as a result of his examination of them and subsequent experimental infection of plants, he came to the conclusion that the large majority of these cases of disease were due to the attack of a fungus called Thielavia basicola upon the roots. It was often very difficult to make out the gross symptoms of the disease affecting the plants from the specimens sent, as they had often been out of the ground for several days and were frequently badly packed ; but it is certain that not all of them showed the brown streak in the stem which is characteristic of the true streak disease. Mr. Massee. who also examined a very large number of plants, also came to the conclusion quite independently that we had to deal with a root disease. A Root Disease. — The symptoms present in the root were the darkening of a less or greater length of the root- surface, and sometimes also of the base of the stem, owing to the presence of the dark chestnut-coloured spores of the fungus upon the root or stem base and the death of the parts attacked. This dark part never extended far up the stem. The death and rotting of portions of the root adversely affected the stems and leaves owing to the ch ,k imposed upon the collection of water and its supply to the foliage, and many of the symptoms outlined above followed as a natural consequence of this check. Checks to Growth. — The present writer gave an account of his experiments with the fungus on the Sweet Pea in the Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society, and showed that the attack of the fungus upon the root produced the root- rot, and, after causing the shrivelling and }'ellowing of parts of the stem remote from the point of attack, brought about the death of the plant. The most significant thing arising from these ex- periments was, however, the difficulty experienced in causing the fungus to attack the root when growing under healthy conditions ; but when a check was imposed upon its healthy development, the root was speedily attacked and the plant succumbed, whereas where the root was similarly checked and there was no fungus, the plants recovered without exception. It seems, therefore, that a check to the root may lay the plants open to attack, and as the fungus is widely distributed over the country in the soil, the attack is very likely to follow. Probably any check will be an efficient preparer of the plant for attack, and one cannot help thinking that the methods often adopted, with the very best intentions, in pre- paring the soU for Sweet Peas lay them open to the attack. Instead of intimately mixing manure with the soil, it is too often placed in layers — a layer of soil and a layer of manure, and so on. Too much manure is used. A trench is dug which acts as a trap, into which water runs from other parts of the soil as into a drain, and, quite likely, as into a drain without sufficient fall. Watering is indulged in too frequently or injudiciously, and so on. Preventive Measures.— It seems evident that if one could sterilise the soil effectively, the fungus would not prove troublesome ; but the difficulties of doing this outdoors are at present insuperable, and no kind of chemical treatment has, so far, proved really effective. All that can be done at present is to cultivate the plants rationally, not to over-stimulate or grow them in an acid soil, to see that supplies of potash and phosphates are ample, and to take great care as to the fashion in which watering (if any) is carried out. We ought not to mix up these diseases, now we know we have more than one to deal with, and perhaps the best name to give this would be Sweet Pea root-rot. It is without doubt very widely spread in this country. Another Disease. — Much more rarely we find another fungus, a species of Fusarium, attacking the roots of the Sweet Pea and bringing about a withering of the plant. We may call this wilt disease. The fungus grows up into the stem and stuffs up the vessels along which the water flows, so that the supply is cut off from the leaves. It is similar in its action and in its origin to the sleepy disease of Tomatoes, and, if it occurs, the plants attacked should be uprooted and burned, and the plot where it occurred avoided for some years for Sweet Pea cultivation. The True Streak.— Much more recently it has been discovered by Miss Cayley that the water-soaked areas in stem (forming streaks) and leaves, which are characteristic of some cases of disease, are due to the attack of certain bacteria, and it is, since this attack is apparentlv always characterised by streaky areas m the stem, to this form of disease that the term " streak " should be restricted. Comparatively little i.5 known about this disease, but the bacilli appear to live in the spaces between the cells and to pass from place to place through these spaces. They seem to develop rapidly only after a period of hot weather, and may exist in the plant without betraying their presence, ready to spread as soon as conditions are favourable. Unfortunately, they may exist in the seeds, and, at any rate at times, show their presence by brown areas inside the cotyledons of the seed, spreading thence through the plant. Whether they also get into the plant from the soil, as is probable, or are carried from plant to plant by such insects as aphides or pests as eelworms, as is possible, is not yet fully proved. In any case it is difficult to see how such an insidious attack can be avoided, though it is just possible, but not entirely certain, that rigid elimination of diseased plants from the seed stocks and prompt burning of all diseased plants in the areas cultivated would do something to check the trouble. F. J. Chittenden. 80 THE GARDEN. [Febrl'arv 14, 19x4. PRACTICAL HINTS ON GROWING SWEET PEAS. w ITH the lengthening days the work among the Sweet Peas will commence. Certainly the grower w-ho raises plants under glass, whether it is in the autumn or the spring, will have the seed sown ; but thus far the seedlings will not have occupied a great deal of time The autumn-sown plants are now growing freely, and young growths should be pushing from the base of the plants. The present time is a very suitable one to handle the plants, and it will be quite wise to put a few small twigs, prefer- ably of fine Birch, to keep them more or less erect. This is not absolutely necessary, but it prevents the young growths becom- ing entangled with their neighbours, and certainly keeps them sturdier by allowing the free circula- tion of light and air be- tween the plants. The soil in which plants were sown singly in pots in the autumn, or potted off singly soon after germina- tion, after two or three months in a cold frame is apt to become rather green on the surface, and, during the operation of twigging, the green should be removed ; this will keep the soil sweeter and tend to better root action. An occasional spraying over- head on fine days with a very weak solution of per- manganate of potash will be beneficial, and I would certainly suggest that such treatment be con- tinued, even after the plants are put out in the ground. It is needless, perhaps, to add that too much air cannot be given at this season, for it must be borne in mind that very few weeks will elapse before it is necessary to plant out, and they can- not be in too hard a con- dition to withstand the cold winds that are often experienced soon after planting. These winds are, I think, more harmful tlian a few degrees of frost. Spring-Sown Plants should be coming through the soil nicely. They should have had slight warmth during the period of germination, but, after the first pair of leaves have unfolded, the process of hardening oft must be commenced, or the young plants will soon become attenuated. The grower's aim should be to keep them stiff enough to stand quite upright until planting-out-time. Sweet Peas Under Glass. — Plants that are being cultivated for blooming under glass should now be in their flowering pots or planted in the borders, whichever system is being adopted. Great progress has been made in this phase of cultivation during the past year or two, and results obtained which even five or six years ago seemed well-nigh impossible. But such results are only SWEET PEA MRS. HUGH DICKSON, A BEAUTIFUL CREAM PINK VARIICTY SUITABLE lOR EXHIBITION AND GARDEN PURPOSES. obtained by very careful cultivation, and one of the chief essentials is to keep the plants growing very steadily at this season. Great care is neces- sary in watering, and once they have been well watered in after potting or planting out, very little more will be needed for some time ; but as I the days lengthen and the temperature of the house is raised by sun-heat, both root and top growth ! will be very rapid, and, naturally, a little more moisture at the roots and in the air will be beneficial. Where a good number of plants are grown under glass, the question of training them crops up. and though I have seen several different systems tried, including ordinary stakes, Bamboos and various string arrangements, I doubt if there is anything so good and easily fixed as the Simplicitas Ne.tting, this being even more effective indoors than in the open. It is too late to speak of varieties for cultivating under glass this season, and e.xcept for exhibition very few \'arieties are required ; but It may not be out of plac to mention a few that I think will be greatly in demand for this purpose for igrj. Bobbie's Frilled Pink, quite an acquisition ; Thomas Stevenson, con- sidered the finest variety under glass ; Double Maggie Stark, a nice soft orange pink ; and Dobbie's Lavender G. Herbert and R. F. Felton. both grand varieties in this colour. Robert Syden- ham, though little has been seen of this up to now. before the end of the season, if I am not greatly mistaken, will have estab- lished a reputation second only to my namesake. .Margaret .^tlee I have not seen under glass, but I feel sure this will be quite good enough in the deeper cream pinks, while Lady .Miller cannot fail to be in demand as a pale cream or salmon pink. White is always in demand, and I'lorence Wright Spencer will be difficult to beat, the extra substance in the bloom making it a desir- able \-arietv. Preparation of the Soil. — Turning to the pre- paration of the soil out of doors, one naturally infers that it has all been well cultivated before this, and those who have not given tlinr ground a dressing of lime on the surface may with advantage do so some time before this ntonth is out. Not only will it benefit the soil — if heavy by its mechanical .iction — but it will tend to free it of slugs, wire- worm and other pests which in the early stages I do much harm to the plants. Ground that is known to be badly infested with wireworm 1 may be partially cleared of this pest by burying Potatoes or Carrots in the ground and examining j them every secimd or third day ; this for preference before the plants are put out. To facilitate matters at planting-out-time, short, bushy stakes should be I prepared during bad weather and tied up in bundles j ready for use, as .ill plants should be staked February 14, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 81 immediately they are planted. If left lying on the ground only one night, it is just possible that some may get eaten by slugs. Where they are grown naturally for cutting purposes, there is nothing better than good, long Hazel stakes, and as these are eagerly snapped up nearer staking- time, it is wise to order them beforehand and get them pointed ready, the same remark applying to posts. &c.. where the cordon system of training is to be adopted. Sowing Seeds in the Open. — There are still a good many lovers of the flower who have neither the time nor the convenience for raising their plants under glass, and must perforce sow them in the open ground. The date of sowing must, naturally, differ according to the locality and the nature of the soil ; but to get the flowers reasonably early, sowing should not be delayed longer than can be helped. On light soil the seeds may be put in ahnost at once, but on heavy loams it might be wise to defer it till the first week in March. An inch to 2 inches in depth is sufficiently deep to make the drills, and two narrow drills are preferable to a wider one ; but, whichever system is adopted, more seeds must be sown than will be needed as plants, thin- ning them out later to a few inches apart. Thomas Stevensox. most arrangements have not half enough foliage about them, and that nothing excels the plant's own leaves for the purpose. I find in the early weeks of blooming quite sufficient longish-stemmed flowers to fill up, if there is too much green. .As the season advances this does not seem necessary, for I use lower, wider and shallower receptacles, which suit the more bushy tops. The idea of pots may be utilised for other pur- poses besides cutting. The whole row may be left to bloom, when it is capable of giving a fine three weeks' show ; or individual pots may be used for vacant spaces in borders by being plunged in the soil. Necessity is the mother of invention. It is enough for me to suggest, as I have done, the utility of pots. Sweet Peas and Tulips. — In conundrum form it would be, " Why are Sweet Peas like Tulips ? " The stock answer, " Because there is a ' p ' in both," is quite true ; but it is too A BEAUTIFUL SAXIFRAGE. SAXIFRAGA BURSERIANA GLORIA. THE first of the Cushion Sa.xifrages which brighten my garden in the earliest dawn of spring is S. burseriana ; in fact, long before the official date which separates spring from mnter. Usually the first week in January sees the blossom points in the close, greyish green, hedgehog-like tuft begin to swell, and if we are favoured with a reasonable amount of bright light, these buds rapidly develop, taking on a bright red hue. Should the conditions of our variable climate then be less favourable (as they not infrequently are), it is surprising how long the embryo flowers will so remain. If, however, as this year, the weather is bright and the tempera- ture uKjderate, the buds push out upon stalks SWEET PEAS IN LARGE POTS. When Garden Space is Limited. — What a convenience an adjustable garden would be ! When plants are plentiful, just to turn a screw and it is larger ; or, when some- thing has gone wrong, to give a twist the other way, and lo ! it ^ is smaller. For several seasons now, when Sweet Pea sowing-time has come round, I have wished for a garden a size or two larger. The naughty Daffodils and Tulips never leave a square foot of ground for anything else, and I must have my Sweet Peas. ' Luckily for me, I had some two dozen large pots from 10 inches to 12 inches in diameter, which it struck me might be the means of solving the diffi- culty. Four years ago these were requisitioned, and the result has ever since been most successful from a cutting-for-the- house point of view. I raise seedlings in cold frames in 3-inch pots, and in due course, when they are about six inches to eight inches high, I transfer them to these large pots, which are then placed in a row alongside a convenient wall, about a foot or rather less away from it. Hence they are trained in the usual manner on sticks, which are made firm by being attached to a couple of wires (one higher and one lower) stretched between two iron (m my case, but wooden ones would do as well) posts, fixed permanently at the ends. They do not get much food, for my object is to induce short, sturdy growth, so as to be able to cut the whole top of some of the flowering shoots to furnish my vases with greenery. Everyone to his fancy in Sweet Pea arrange- ment, as in other things. Personally, I think A COLONY OF THE BEAUTIFUL SAXIFRAGA BURSERIANA GLORIA. parochial and too " catchy." There is a real reason. Both plants have for different reasons been very useful to the botanist. No one will ever forget the part the Sweet Pea has played in Mendelian development. True, the abbot himself used only the culinary Pea, but one has only to turn to such a book as R. C. Punnett's " Men- delism " (Plate IV.) to see how in subsequent investigations the Sweet Pea itself has been used. In a similar way the Tulip was used in the eighteenth century. It is easy to see how its large and simple-shaped flower made certain observations comparatively easy and possible. As a definite instance I would cite a small book by John Hill, M.D. (i738)_, entitled " Method of Producing Double Flowers from Single by a Regular Course of Culture." Here the Tulip is the flower chosen, on account, as the author says, of its size and simplicity. Joseph Jacob. some I J inches long and then open, displaying beautiful, pearly white flowers of a satin-like texture daintily crimped at the edges. The stalks which support these lovely flowers are of the rich red colour which characterises the buds, the whole making a most attractive picture in our alpine garden so early in the year. If the elements are kind, or if a roof glass is arranged above the tuft so as to protect the flowers from heavy rain, it is surprising how long they will remain in good condition, despite their delicate and fragile appear- ance. The comparatively recent form known as Gloria has flowers considerably larger than the type, while the foliage also appears to be more sturdy. The accompanying illustration of a ver}' fine group grown and staged by Mr. Clarence Elliott exhibits the attractive appearance of a colony of this Saxifrage, and also indicates how very effectively it can be disposed among the 82 THE GARDEN. [February 14, 1914. outcropping rocks iu our alpine garden. Of late there has beea considerable controversy as to whether it is a shade or sun lover. From the small, narrow, pointed leaves it suggests that it is an inhabitant of sunny districts, and here at W lodford I grow it in a south-east aspect, where 4 feet to 6 feet in length. It is a familiar garden plant, flowering in late March. S. arguta. — The flowering season is from the middle of April till late May (see illustration). Height. ,1 feet to 5 feet. S. ariaefolia. — .A strong-growing species, with SWEET PEAS FOR GAR- DEN DECORATION AND CUTTING. it receives the whole of the sun from early morning , plume-like panicles of creamy white flowers in June, to 5 p.m., and, as I write, the diminutive growths S. japoniea. — This well-known species produces are a mass of ruddy blossom points. I grow it a succession of flat clusters of very red flowers iu a very free soil composed of sand, leaf-mould, from mid-June until the autumn. There are old mortar, finely broken bricks and fibrous loam numerous varieties, of which the dwarf Bumalda, about fifteen inches deep and superimposed on about two feet high, with heads of deep pink 6 inches of rough drainage. From .March to the bloom, is one of the bfst. end of July I copiouslj' supply it with water, which is, I believe, an essential during their growing season for the successful cultiva- tion of these choicer Saxifrages. When November arrives, and with it the fogs and smoke so well known to the suburban dweller, I erect a roof glass above the patch to intercept the dirt and excessive rainfall. There is one other point which appears to me to be of con- siderable importance, and that is a thoroughly compacted root- ing medium and very firm plant- ing, whUe once or twice a year I top-dress with a compost of fine leaf-soil, small grit and silver sand. For this purpose I thoroughly dry the compost and run it in between the tinv growths on a fine, dry day. By this means it is possible to fill up the interstices between the growths in a manner quite im- possible if the top-dressing is iu the slightest degree moist or the plant clammy. Recently I have tried S. burseriana in the moraine, and it seems quite happy among the moist grit. Some growers propagate this Saxifrage by means of cuttings. If the necessary attention and special skill is not available, a more rapid method of increasing one's stock is to take up a tuft, say, in April, and after shaking out the soil, carefully divide the bunch of fine roots. It will be found quite easy to cut up a patch as large as one's hand into ten or twenty plants, each with ample roots to support it. and if these are potted firmly in the above-mentioned compost and kept moist and "close" for a week or so, they rapidly make sturdy plants. They can, with care, be planted out into the rock garden direct. R. A. Malbv. A MO A SPIK.EA ARGUTA, BEARING CLUSTERS SPRINGTIME. OF WHITE FLO\VI;rS IX SHRUBBY SPIR^AS. By making a selection of shrubby Spiraeas it is possible to have a succession of bloom throughout the greater part of the year. One of the first, if not the first, to open its blooms is Spiraea Thunbergii, producing clusters of white flowers un slender shoots. It is well suited for planting on raised banks. Height, 3 feet. S. prunifolia flore pleno. — The double white flowers are profuseh- b'lrne on arching shoots from S. Douglasii. — In July and August this is one of the most charming of the shrubby Spirjeas. The flowers are deep rose and freely borne on a dense mass of closely packed shoots. S. lindleyana. — .\ very lieautiful Himalayan species witli white flowers disposed in large terminal panicles. The flowering season is Sep- tember, and it grows to a height of 6 feet or 8 feet. Unfortunately, it can only be recommended with safety for Southern gardens. In Devon and Cornwall it grows luxuriantly. With this exception, all of the foregoing are perfectly hardy, and nia\- he gmwu in anv good garden soil. MONG annuals there is none lo rival Sweet Peas for cutting, and during the last ten or fifteen years their rapid rise in popularity has added considerably to the attractiveness of our garden borders. The reason for this is not far to seek. In the first instance, the seeds are verv cheap to purchase, no annual is easier to grow, and the plants pro- duce quantities of flowers in almost every shade of colour. While for the purposes under discussion it is unnecessary to study the details of cultivation so closely as must be done to gain honours on the exhibition table, the main points must be followed if we are to get the best results from the plants to brighten our gar- dens and homes. Practically any garden, within reason, in town, suburb and country on which the sun shines in this isle will grow, or may be made to grow. Sweet Peas. The worst to deal with is a small, confined and stuffy town garden. Trench the ground 2 feet deep in autumn or early winter, and work in plenty of old decayed manure. In many gardens this will be sufficient soil preparation ; in others much more must be done if success is to attend our efforts. Very light soils should be improved bj- adding plenty of cow-manure and top-spit loam. Heavy clay soils will benefit by frequent working and throwing up roughly in winter for frost and rain to improve it. Sand, road grit, wood- ashes, leaf-mould and basic slag will all assist to improve clay soils. The Time to Sow Seeds.— To produce a display or supply t>i blooms o\'er a long season from the end of May to October, it is necessary to make at least three sowings — October (or September in the North), February, and the end of March. For preference the two earlier sowings shotdd be made in a cold frame or cool green- house, removing the plants lati r when about an inch high to a cold frame ; and the third sowing outside. Sowing Outside. — The drills or rings in which Sweet Pea seeds arc to he sown should be about three inches deep, this amount of soil being covered over the seeds when sown. To facilitate watering in summer on light soils, the rings or drills may be prepared 3 inches or 4 inches lower than the general level of the garden. Sow the seeds thinly ; it is waste to do otherwise, because later the young plants must be thinned to not less than 6 inches apart. Some growers prefer nearer a fool. The question of clumps versus rows of Sweet Peas is an oft-discussed point, the .answer being that exceJleiit flowers are obtained bv both methods, always February 14, 1914-] THE GARDEN. 83 providing that the plants in the rows have ample space in which to grow. When large quantities of flowers are required, rows are preferable ; but for artistic effect in borders, groups or clumps of varying sizes, according to the width and length of the bor- der, are the best. There is no better place for a row of Sweet Peas than planted as a screen to separate the vegetable garden from the flower garden. Much has been said and written about supports for Sweet Peas, yet nothing has been found to equal sticks to secure an artistic effect, and they should be used if obtainable at a reasonable price, those of Hazel ■being the best. The average height of the stakes required will be from 6 feet to 9 feet, according to the nature of the ground and the position. Mulching with some old decayed manure during June, watering with clear water in dry- weather, and occasional applications of liquid and cutting. The orange pinks when Henry Eckford and Earl Spencer were first introduced did not cover themselves with glory in the border ; but now we have Barbara and Melba, which are both satisfactory. It would be very difficult to find two growers in agreement respecting the twelve best sorts. The following are all first rate : King White, Clara Curtis, Barbara, Scarlet Emperor, R. F. Felton, Mrs. E. Cowdry, May Farquhar, Rosabelle, Elfrida Pearson, Edith Taylor, King Edward Spencer and Agricola. .-V. O. FIVE GOOD SWEET PEAS. COLOURED PLATE 1487. Among Sweet Peas of comparatively recent introduction, the five shown in the coloured good constitution and the flowers do not burn so badly in the sun as many of tliis hue. They are well placed on the stems and a good bunch is very effective, either in the exhibition tent or used for house decoration. It received an award of merit from till' Royal Horticultural Society in 1912. Debbie's Cream. — .As its name implies, this variety, as well as Melba, was sent out by Me.ssrs. Dobbie and Co. There are now quite a number r>f cream varieties, but the one illustrated will take a lot of beating. It is a very free-flowering Sweet Pea, and for that reason is very effective in the garden, whi'e for show purposes it leaves nothing to be desired. R. F. Felton. — Those who saw the magnificent bunches of this variety staged at the National Sweet Pea Society's exhibition last year are not likely to forget them. It is a very large flower of a varying shade of blue, the blooms being large A BEAUTIFUL ROW OF SWEET PEA KING WHITE, WITH WHITE CANUYTUl-T O.N THE OTHER SIDE OF THE PATHWAY. manure will assist in the production of vigorous growths and large, richly coloured flowers, borne on long stalks over a lengthy period. When cut frequently, there will be no flowers left to seed ; but any that remain and fade on the plants must he removed, leaving a few pods, perhaps about the beginning of August, to mature sufficient seeds for home sowing, though it is doubtful economy when seeds are so cheap to purchase. The Best Varieties. — The question of the "best sorts for garden decoration and cutting can "be dismissed in a few lines. Much more interest and pleasure is obtained from an up-to-date collection of named Sweet Peas than by growing the same sorts year after year. I have yet to iiee the Sweet Pea that holds a high place at ■exhibitions to-day which is unsuitable for the border plate presented with this issue occupy a high position. They are all good for garden decoration and for exhibition. Rosabelle. — This was raised by -Mr. .A. Malcolm and put into commerce by Messrs. E. W. King and Co. It is one of the prettiest of its colour. The flowers are large and good, and placed well on the stout, erect stems. It may best be described as a giant Marjorie Willis. King Manoel. — .-Vmong Sweet Peas of dark maroon colour, this is a giant. The plants have a vigorous habit, and the blooms are of excellent substance. It was raised and distributed by Mr. George Stark. Melba. — This is an exceptionally dainty and charming flower, the soft salmon orange tint always appealing strongly to ladies. It has a and well poised on the stems. It was raised and sent out by Mr. Robert Bolton, and last year was awarded the National Sweet Pea Society's medal as the best new variety sent to the trials in 1912. Under the society's rules it had to be grown at the trials last year to see if it remained true before the medal could be awarded. SWEET PEA KING WHITE This beautiful variety, shown in the accompanying illustration, has already won high honours, having secured an award of merit from the National Sweet Pea Society and the Royal Horticultural Society. It has very large flowers of excellent substance, and is being introduced by Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Sons, Hawlmark, Belfast, and Messrs. W. .A. Burpee and Co., Philadelphia, U.S.A. 84 THE GARDEN. [February 14. 1914. ROSE-GROWING IN TOWN GARDENS. Ramblers and Their Uses. — In dealing with rambling Roses, of which there are a great number of species and hybrids, we have to consider, first of all, the purpose for which they are required. Those which do excellently as pillar Roses, or will clothe and cover arches and pergolas most effec- tively, often resent contact with walls ; and, on the other hand, many which show to advantage where all the shoots are trained against a flat surface do not produce fresh growths freely enough to make them really useful for other purposes. The ramblers most generally selected are the wichuraianas and those of the multifiora scandens type. Both of these classes are immensely popular, and they include all the finest varieties a town gardener can employ for covering his arches and pergolas, and will also do exceedingly well w'hen fastened to tall pillars. They have, unfor- tunately, a comparativelv short flowering period (with few exceptions), but in that time produce such masses of bloom, and are, moreover, of such fine vigour and habit, that no one need hesitate to plant a few. The Best Varieties. — The wichurai- anas are generally to be preferred on account of their greater immunity from fungoid diseases, and of these there arc so many good sorts that selection becomes a difficult matter. The following are all reliable : Hiawatha, single, crimson, white centre ; Lady Gay, rose pink ; .Alberic Barbier, creamy yellow ; Coquina, single, pink shaded ; Leontine Gervaise, salmon rose, tinted yellow; Debutante, light pink ; Jersey Beauty, single, cream\- yellow ; Excelsa, rosy crimson ; Gardenia, light yellow to cream ; and White Dorothy Perkins. All of these do well in towns, and many might be added to the list. Lady Gay is, I think, better than Doroth>- Perkins, to which it is very similar, for Ihough the latter has but little tendency to mildew, the former is practically proof against it, and in addition the flowers are slightly larger and a shade deeper in colour. The main priming of wichurai- anas should be undertaken as soon as possible after the bloom is over, and completed before the end of the autumn. This consists in cutting out from the base as many of the old shoots as can be spared. The strong, new growths are then tied into place to provide the bloom for the succeeding season, and where there is a superabundance of these, the weakest ^ should be removed. In the spring little remains to be done beyond removing some of the late-started growths which have not matured and arranging those that are retained so that they will have as much air and light as possible. Newly planted wichuraianas should be cut down at once to within a foot of the ground, the object being to induce plenty of strong growth from the base. In dealing with climbers of all kinds, one must be prepared to sacrifice the bloom for the first year, and by s(j doing a great deal of time will be saved in getting the plant established satisfactorily. Other Ramblers. — I have already hinted that the multifiora scandens class is less desirable, at all events to the town gardener, than the wichuraiaua. Crimson Rambler, the most widely grown in this section, is anything but a good town Rose, for not only is it subject to mildew, but it is also liable to attacks of black spot. Blush Rambler, one of its progeny, is seemingly free from these weaknesses, and is a very beautiful Rose for an arch. Mrs. F. W. Flight (pink, semi- double flowers) is also good. Tausendschon (rose pink) is verv pretty and distinct, but too quite worth growing, though the colour is scarcely striking. Perpetual Thalia (white) blooms again in autumn. The pruning of multifioras follows closely that of the wichuraianas, except that we get more of the following laterals or strong non-flowering shoots springing from the middle of other growths, some of which must be retained. Basal growths are seldom as numerous, and one can defer cutting out those which have to be discarded until the winter, which, of course, must be done in the case of the perpetual-flowering kinds. One other rambler is of the greatest use in towns ; that is the sempervirens Felicite Perpetue. This is a Rose for a bad spot, and it is safe to say that it will thrive where very few others would exist. Bleak or draughty gardens seem to suit it, and it is even at home on a wall facing north. Wichuraianas seldom do well on walls or fences, and multifioras are even less suited for this purpose. When it is par- ticularly desired to cover up a fence with the former, the best method is to train the stems up about a foot away from it, securing them to stout stakes, and they may then be carried and trained on to a trellis or wire-work above the fence. But there are many Roses better suited for such a position, with which I will deal in mv ne.xt article in the issue of February 2S. P. L. Goddard. — A CLUMP Ol' SWEET PEAS TRAINED SIMPLICITAS NETTING. apt to mildew. Tea Rambler, as its name implies, claims kinship with another section, in which it was originally classed, though the habit is that of multifiora. It is best suited for a wall, and I will refer to it again in dealing with Roses for this purpose. The multifioras already include some important breaks in the direction of con- tinuous-flowering kinds, but these are at present rather in the nature of a promise of good things to come than a realisation of the ideal. Trier, the first of these to arrive, is very perpetual and ON THE STAKING OF SWEET PEAS. M UCH of the disease now prt- \'alent among Sweet Peas, in the opinion of the majority of experts, could be overcome if more atten- tion were given to the prt- \ention of checks during the early growth if the plants. Checks due to climatic influences cannot be held in control, but I hose resultant from cultural neglect need not occur. Experiments and observations prove beyond a doubt that the plants immune from disease during the flowering period (when the disease is so rampantly apparent) are those in which, from the first, a steady, sturdv growth has been maintained. A Prolific Cause of Trouble is failing to supply adequate support to the young seedlings, which, in many cases, are allowed to fall over the sides of the seed pots or boxes and become injured, or they are matted together in a tangled mass of entwined tendrils, and separation for planting out cannot be accomplished with- out injury to practically every seedling. Is it small wonder that such plants fall a prey to the ravages of disease, when, as seed- lings, their constitution has been wrecked through careless neglect ? Early Support Necessary. — Directly the first tendril appears on the seedlings, the plants must be given supports of some kind, and for this purpose I know of nothing better than the twiggy, tops of Hazel sticks, roimd which the young tendrils quickly enfold themselves. If the seedlings receive cool treatment, strong, stiff, erect growths will result, and when the plants are 5 inches or February 14, i9i4-' THE GARDEN. 85 6 inches in height, they can be planted out. Longer twigs should supplement those already in use, and these should be such as will uphold the plants until they reach the larger supports used for the flowering period. The Final Staking. — For the final staking, having experimented with many substitutes, I consider Hazel or Elm sticks the most satis- factory, and so long as I can procure the sticks I shall keep to this old-fashioned plan. Method of Staking Rows.— The tallest and twiggiest sticks should be firmly inserted in the soil to the depth of 9 inches or 10 inches on either side of the row. These may be arranged in either an upright or a slanting position. Personally, I prefer staking obliquely, as fewer sticks are needed, and, if the main growth be tied in, the breaks develop vigorously and a well-filled-out row of Sweet Peas is obtained. To guard against the ravages of strong winds, it is best to insert stout stakes at intervals in the rows, and connect these with wires woven through the sticks. Clumps of Sweet Peas. — For staking clumps in the flower border nothing equals sticks. The newest and twiggiest ones should be neatly and carefullv arranged, and these will harmonise well with all other surrounding shrubs or flowers. But sticks are not always to be had, therefore some substitute must be used. Fig. 2 shows an excellent arrangement made with thin Bamboo canes, two stout stakes and three wire hoops, and I think it is the most satisfactory substitute for natural stakes, both from the point of view of utility and artistic merit, and also that of economy, as the materials needed to make the circle will last several years, and can be easily put up or taken down. The materials required are two strong stakes 9 feet or 10 feet long, which should be firmly driven into the ground about twenty inches apart, and then three hoops put over them — the first hoop a foot from the ground, the next midway up, and the third fastened securely near the top. Then ten or twelve lo-feet Bamboo canes are arranged at intervals of 4 inches or 5 inches around the hoops and securely tied to them. During the growing season, if the shoots are tied in as often as necessary, excellent clumps will be obtained. Wire-Netting of large mesh arranged in a circle round the stakes may be used instead of the canes ; but I experienced complete failure with it, as it has the disadvantage of becoming very hot under the sun's rays and burning the plants, thereby causing injury. For this reason it is the least desirable of the substitutes for sticks, although many growers use it, as it keeps the plants well under control. The Simplicitas Patent Netting for all climbing plants is easily fixed and removed, and will serve for several years. For Sweet Peas in rows I found it excellent, and Fig. i well illus- trates a clump of Sweet Peas thus trained, showing the advantages of the netting and also its one fault of " sagging." I found that birds did not like the see-saw they experienced when alighting on it, therefore the plants were left alone, quite a point in favour of the netting. The foregoing notes refer chiefly to Sweet Peas grown for decorative and garden purposes ; but whatever method be used, it is essential that the staking be done thoroughly. Exhibitors who cultivate their plants on the cordon system find that Bamboo canes or wires stretched upon a framework are more useful for their purpose than sticks, as the plants are denuded of every tendril and each stem is trained separately. Of course, tlie initial outlay is somewhat great, for iron or wooden frames form the end supports and wires are stretched from end to end, and to these the 10- feet or 12-feet Bamboo canes are securely fastened. For keeping the stems in position, gal- vanised rings, easy to fasten, are now procurable. Users of them during the past season are loud in praise of their utility, and declare them to be almost indispensable. This method of culture requires daily attention, for the plants are kept rigidly disbudded, one, two, or three leads being allowed to each plant. Flowers obtained by this method are of enormous size, and, by the " honours " they win, repay the necessary outlay of money and care. However, the small grower with limited time and means who grows only for garden display will be well advised to use the substitute as illustrated in Fig. 2, and if he is unable to go to the trouble of tying in refractory growths, these can be kept in by winding some twine round and round the canes at intervals of a few inches, to which the tendrils will readily cling, although the effect of the clump is impaired thereby. In conclusion, I tender my thanks to Messrs. Dobbie and Co. for their kindness in allowing me to illustrate these notes from photo- graphs taken at their seed farm at Mark's Tev, Essex. S. M. Crow. Pinch the leader to induce lower buds to grow- out strongly in early spring, not in autumn. Do not wait till after planting out to begin to kill slugs. Place small heaps of bran on the sites (where Sweet Peas are to be grown) during autumn and winter, and in mild weather visit them at night with a lantern and kill all the slugs seen. I kil! thousands of slugs during the winter months. 1 have satisfied myself long ago that frost does not kill them. I am pretty well certain that tliey dodge the cold weather by going down the worm- holes. Plant out about mid-.\pril when the weather is favourable. Plant very firmly, but allow the top 2 inches or so of soil to be loose. Allow the weeds to grow on either side up to within 6 inches or so of the plants until the Sweet Peas are about one and a-half feet high. This will sound like preaching madness, but slugs feed on weeds, and if the soil all around the plants is kept bare, they have nothing else to eat and are much more likely to " go " for the Sweet Peas. Do not thin out, disbud or train until the haulm is about fifteen inches high, if growing for exhibition. Hammond T. Hinton. SWEET PEA HINTS FOR BEGINNERS. PREPARE the ground as early in autumn as con- venient. Trench as deeply as possible. If there is very little depth of good soil, take out some of the subsoil and add any other good earth — " mellowed " top spit for preference. Use mixed farm- yard manure, at least a year old, bone-meal and soot throughout the spits, except in the top spit, in which use only bone-meal and soot. Keep the original top spit as the top spit. Tread all firmly except the top 6 inches or so. Ridge the soil at the top — two or three times during the winter will not hurt. Give a dressing of basic slag and a little kainit (a good lot of the latter if the soil is light) early in winter; sulphate of potash in spring. Get good seed — much preferably English grown. Chip all seeds and sow in sandy soil, except " white " and grizzled or wrinkled seed, which should be sown in a pocket or depression about half an inch deep, made with tlie point of the finger and filled with sand. Sow in autumn in pots during the second week in October. Place a few half-decayed leaves over the crocks and three-quarters fill with good top spit soil and a little leaf- mould. The top quarter should be rather poor soil. Winter in frames. Pots to be sunk to the rims in ashes. Put a good number of pieces of Carrot among the pots and look at them at night with a light ; kill all the slugs seen. 2. SWEET PEAS TRAINED ON CANES. A CIRCLE OF BAMBOO 86 THE GARDEN. [February 14. 1914. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. Cherry Trees in Pots. — The early started trees will now be in bloom, and should be freely \entilated tmtil the flowering period is over. Shake the trees several times dnring the early part of the day in order to disperse the pollen, and only employ sufficient fire-heat to keep the house free from frost. Melons. — The earliest plants will now be grow- ing freely, and mav be stopped before they reach the top of the trellis, as by this means numerous side shoots will be produced, and on these the young Melons will soon be noticeable. When sufficient fruits are set, they should be regulated to three or four on each plant. Keep the growth well thinned in order to admit light among the foliage, but do not sftip too many shoots at one time. Water freely when necessary, but avoid dabbling, as this is almost sure to prove fatal. Shut up the house early in the afternoon, lightly syringing the foliage at the same time. A night tempera- ture of 70°, rising to 85° by day with sun-heat, will suit them well. A second plantation should now be made, and another sowing of seeds placed \n small, clean pots for succession. Pot Vines. — If these were started in November, the Grapes will now be well forward and have com- menced to stone. During this period the tempera- ture should not exceed 70° at night, for, while the seeds are in course of formation, there is a great strain on the energy of the plant, although growth may seem almost at a standstill. Be ver}- careful in giving water at the roots, for if once allowed to become too dry, the crop will suffer seriously. When the berries recommence to swell, give liberal supplies of manure-water at the roots. Guano is one of the best manures for this purpose. Keep the foliage well regulated and shut up the house early in the afternoon, damping the floor and walls at the same time. Plants Under Glass. Caladiums. — The tubers may now be started into growth, either in boxes or small pots, and as soon as sufficiently advanced they should be potted into larger pots and placed on a gentle hot- bed, as by this means growth will be much stronger than if the plants are grown on an ordinary stage. Achimenes. — Batches of these should be started in heat from now till the middle of April. Shake each variety out of the old soil separately, and plant the tubers in a compost of fibrous loam, peat and leaf-soil in equal parts, with sufficient rough sand to keep the whole in a porous con- dition. They are well adapted for growing in baskets hanging from the roof of a warm con- servatory, or they may be cultivated in pots ; but in this case thorough drainage is indispensable, and the addition of a little charcoal to the soil will be an advantage. Place the baskets or pots near the glass and syringe frequently with soft water imtil growing freely, when a thorough watering should be given. Sweet Peas in Pots should not be allowed to become stunted for want of potting, but let the plants be carefully placed in larger pots in a com- post of turfy loam and a little decayed cow- manure. A well-ventilated structure with plenty of light is the only place to grow them to perfection for early flowering. A few fine t™gs should be placed in each pot to keep the plants in an upright position. Manure-water may be freely given when the pots become well filled with roots, also plenty of air may be applied. The Flower Garden. The Subtropical Garden. — The plants for this part of the garden should be raised or increased during the present month. Sow seeds of Ricinus, .■\cacias and Eucalyptus. Such plants as these afford a happy relief from the usual summer bedding, and may be mtermixed with Lilies that flower during the summer and autumn. Hyacinthus candicans, large - flowered Cannas, (jladiolus and Montbretias may all be associated with them. East Lothian Stocks should now be ready for potting into 3-inch pots. Good rich soil should be used, and the plants grown in a slightly heated pit ; harden off as soon as large enough, and plant out during .-^pril. Hardy Fruit. American Blight on Apple Trees. — The present is a good tinte tti destrov this pest, and one of the best remedies for the purpose is soluble paraffin ; but a great deal depends on the way in whic.i this or any other remedy is applied whether it will be a success or not. The preparation should be thoroughly worked into the affected parts of the tree with a hand-brush. Spraying or syringing is simply a waste of time and materia], as far as this pest is concerned. Spraying Orchard Trees. — Where trees arc infested with lichen, they should be sprayed with some approved solution, and this should be done before the trees start into growth. For small orchards the " Knapsack" Sprayer is the best, and a quiet, still day should be chosen for the purpose. The operator should wear long rubber gloves. The Kitchen Garden. Sowing Seeds. — As soon as the state of the soil will permit, a sowing of some of the earliest subjects should be made. Turnip Early Milan may be sown on a warm border with as little delay as possible, but only a small quantity should be sown at this early date, as many of the plants are likely to run to seed. The main crop of Broad Beans may also be sown now, and hardy kinds of Peas sown at this date should be ready to gather by the third week in June. For this purpose, nothing among early Peas will give more satisfaction than The Pilot, 3^ feet. Brussels Sprouts may now be sown in the open, also Cabbage, Cauliflower and Leeks. Lettuce sown in the open now should be ready to cut in the first week of June. Pioneer, May King and Balloon are good for this purpose. Carrots may also be sown in the open for pulling in June. Globe Artichokes. — The present is a good time to make plantations of these. Let the ground be trenched and manured, plant suckers from the best plants, and allow a space of 4 feet between the plants each way. Potatoes may now he planted in cold pits or under a south wall, where protection can be given without causing an eyesore. Radishes may now be sown on a south border and protected from birds by netting. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Plans for Cropping. — At this season of the yeii it will be w( 11 to make a rough sketch of the vege- table (juarters and arrange the plots for the season's cropping. This will prove verj' helpful during the busy season, for, as spring advances, one has usually more to do than one can find time for. Many- gardeners grow such crops as Carrots and Onions year after year on the same ground, and still get very good results. As a rule, however, it would not be wise to recommend this plan. Such crops as Potatoes, Leeks, Carrots and Beet should be followed by Peas, Beans, Onions and most of the Brassica tribe. Shallots. — If one can get tha-soil into working order, no time should be lost in getting Shallots planted. The ground will require to be moderately firm, and plant the bulbs almost on the surface, only sufficiently deep to keep them in position. Chives. — Where the Chives have got overgrown, the present will be a suitable time to make a frcsfi planting, which should be on well-prepared soil. Too often this useful vegetable is neglected, and, being much earlier and milder than Onions, it is a grand substitute for that crop for soups and salads. Seakale. — Roots secured from the forcing crowns may now be placed in boxes of sand and stood in a cool Peach-house. These will soon commence to grow, and will be ready to plant out some time in March. The Flower Garden. Carnations. — Border Carnations which have been wintered in cold frames may be planted any time now, provided the soil can be sot into a fit state. The late Mr, Martin Smith told the writer that, in preparing ground for planting Carnations, if one could make an impression with the foot, it was not firm enough. Pe^-sonally. I prefer planting in October ; but this is not always convenient, or, I dare say, advisable, as some experience great difficulty in' keeping them through the \\iuter. Dianthuses. — These will make a fine show, and with very little expense. As advised for Carnations from seed, great care will be necessary to prevent the young seedlings from becoming drawn, which will render them almost tiseless. Sow now in moderate heat. Petunias. — If one wishes to make a displav of these beautiful annuals, it will be well to make a sowing towards the end of this week. If time and space permit, grow them on in pots instead of boxes, and the little extra tr.iuble will nmplv repay one. Lobelias. — With the more free and easy style of bedding now being adopted, Lobelias mav very well be grown from seed instead of cuttings. Seed sown now will make fine plants by May. Should flowers appear before bedding-time, thev ought to be cut off, which will materiallv prolong the flowering period out of doors. Kochia triehophylla. — In favoured districts this will be found to make very interesting and effective dot plants among the lower-growing subjects in the flower g.arden. Sow the seed now and grow on in pots, keeping the plants near ihe glass. Plants Under Glass. Vallota purpurea. — At several important flower shows last autumn I saw this grand old favourite exhibited more than usual, and one was pleased to come across it again. Manv made a note of it. doubtless with a view to adding it to their collection, and I consider it worthy of a place among the best of greenhouse plants,' It is important at this season to see that it does not suffer from the want of water ; this has been the cause of many failures. Calceolarias.— These extremely decorative plants will now be ready to be potted into their flowering pots, which should be 8 inches to 10 inches, accord- ing to requirements. They should not be potted too firm, and as they begin to fill the pots with roots, feeding should' commence. It is surprising in well-grown plants what an amount of artificial feeding they will stand. Continue to keep the plants near the glass without coming in contact with cold winds. Gardenias will now be showing flower-buds, and may be treated liberally in the way of manure. If planted out, it is a good plan to 'mulch with farmyard manure. Pinch all growths that appear round the bud ; these are often the cause of the latter not opening properlv, Bougainvilleas. — Where these are grown on the roof of the plant stove, they should now be pruned back and thorouglily washed. ,^ good syringing with Quassia will generally rid them of green or black flv, to whicli thev are verv subject. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Planting. — All hardy fruit may still be planted, but it will not be wise to defer this work much longer, as late-planted trees never get the same chance to recover from the shift. In any case, recently planted trees should have a mulching of stable litter placed over the roots to protect them from late frosts. Pruning and nailing of all wall trees should be completed now. Early Pears. — Some of the earlier varieties will be showing flower, especially on sheltered walls facing south. These should be protected either by herring-nets or si the eighty varieties I grow to be at- tacked ; it is rather too creamy to be a tip-top white. White Pearl is a very good waved variety, but hardly robust enough, and gav.' out rather early in the season. Freda is a great pleasure to me, as it throws fours in profusion on very long stems ; perfectly fixed. I picked flowers from the middle of May up to the end of October ; the plants reached over fifteen feet in height. Moneymaker is also very .good, with strong, lasting petals. Florence Wright has not been so strong, and has not bloomed so freely. Nora Unwin is still a very line garden variety, but not so good for exhibition. Now for the scarlets which I have grown. Scarlet Monarch is not large nor robust enough and only throws tlirees, but lasts in bloom very well ; in fact, it is the best in that respect. Red Star I think the very best scarlet up te> date. It throws fours in great quantity, and grows quite 15 feet high. .Scarlet Emperor is also very good, but does not throw fours in quantity, as exhibition varieties must do. Vermilion Brilliant is also a favourite of mine, although its fault with me has been that its blooming season is short. It is a medium grower and quite fixed. Regarding lavenders, W. P. Wright has been very disappoint- ing. I tried two small packets of seed. One I put in a clump, but only three plants grew, and they turned out two dirty whites and a violet maroon. Front the other packet I had eight plants. One was a dirty wliite, another a plain standard Lavender, and the rest quite good. True Lavender has been perfect, all the flowers being pure and good ; if there is a fault, it is that I should like to see rather more colour in the blooms. In dark mauves I can pick two good ones, viz., Queen of Norway, which is first class, and Tennant Spencer a very good second. Of light mauves, I am just going to mention two which I consider the cream of the lot. R. F. Felton is a very fine grower and throw's plenty of fours, but my fancy is Mrs. Heslington, a very robtist gre>wer, and I pickeel blooms with 12-incli stems. Paimnton, Dei'on. lior!.\CK II. Kmcht. GARDEN. -y^- -V* J^ .^r No. 2205.— Vol. LXXVIII. February 21, 1914. NOTES OF THE WEEK. A Miniature Daffodil. — Just now the dainty \ and Shiner among the claret-edged kinds, and little flowers of Narcissus minimus are unfolding \ Rose Barton, His Reverence and W. E. Gumbleton in the outdoor garden, opening as it were the ' among the green and the yellow ones, are distinct Daflodil season. It is impossible to praise this advances on most of the older sorts. Cawston perfect little gem too much. It is a true trumpet Gem and Nelsonii, however, still hold their own. variety, yet it is but 3 inches high and not more The six new varieties just mentioned were all than half an inch in diameter. The colour is rich , raised by Sir Frederick Moore at Glasnevin. yellovv, and for planting in little nooks in the rock garden or other sheltered places we know of nothing more pleasing. It is a native of Spain, and should be freely planted where early outdoor flowers are appreciated. Transplanting Alstroemerias. — The genus Alstroemeria, or Herb Lily, was at one time much more largely grown than it is at present. Why the plants have dropped out of favour is not easily understood, for few plants need less attention to grow them successfully, either in pots or in the open ground. The present time is the most suit- able for transplanting them. The ground should be well trenched and the tubers placed from 6 inches to 9 inches deep. They seldom succeed if planted near the surface. When once established they will continue to brighten the garden for many years, and the handsome flowers are excel- lent for cutting, remaining fresh for a long time. An Attractive Acacia for a Small Greenhouse. — The Silver Wattle (Acacia dealbata), better known to many people as Mimosa, is undoubtedly the best of the genus, and is an excellent plant for helping to furnish a large conservatory where it has room to grow into a good-sized tree. But those who possess only a small greenhouse will find a very valuable substitute in A. longifolia. Plants of this beautiful species can be grown in pots, and will flower in a small state from 2 feet to 3 feet high and upwards ; they are very oroamental with their graceful sprays of flower intermixed with the beautiful blue Coleus thyrsoideus. Bv cutting back the Acacia as soon as the flowering period is over, dwarf, compact plants can be obtained. Laclienalias in Small Pots. — February being the month when with cool greenhouse treatment these bulbs are in flower, we would like to call our readers' attention to their value as plants to grow in dwarf pots. Nine or ten bulbs in a 6-inch pot make a fine show. They are a welcome change from the usual spring flowers, and, what is a strong point in their favour, they are very lasting when in bloom. Some of the newer varieties, such as Brightness, John Geoghegan NARCISSUS MOSCHATUS OF HAWORTH, A SMALL- FLOWERED VARIETY SUITABLE FOR THE ROCK GARDEN. The Danger of New Pots.— It is very probable that the deleterious effects of new pots on the roots of certain plants are unknown to some of our readers. Most people are content to soak them in water before using them for the first time, in order to prevent undue absorption of moisture from the soil. This operation, however, docs not remove the offending something that causes the roots to turn brown and ultimately decay wherever they come into contact with the new surface. Hyacinths are among the number of those which are thus affected, and it was our seeing a collection in which this was very marked that has led us to insert this warning. The only safe plan is to bury all new pots in the ground for six or eight weeks before they are used tor the first time. This effectually removes their sting and makes them as harmless as old ones. Narcissus moschatus of Haworth. — This small white Spanish Daffodil created a deal of interest when shown in quantity by the Wargrave Plant Farm at a recent meeting of the Royal Horticul- tural Society. It is a miniature Daffodil with a creamy white trumpet, attaining a height of about nine inches. This variety is recommended for the rock garden, and when planted in nooks among the rockwork and left undis- turbed will become established : nd make a charmuig show. It is also adapted for naturalising on grassy slopes facing North in partial shade. The Government and Horticulture.— The first report of the horticulture branch of the Board of Agriculture has just been published, and gives us a good insight to the work that is being done by this newly constituted branch. So far, plant diseases appear to have been the principal items dealt with, and it is a good sign to find that active steps are being taken to stamp out such as Gooseberry mildew, wart disease of Potatoes, Larch sawfly and the silver- leaf disease. The export trade in agri- cultural and horticultural produce is also receiving serious attention, and on the whole the report is a satisfactory one. Copies can be obtained through Messrs. Wyman and Sons, Fetter Lane, E.G., price 2S. 2d. each. Sowing Hollyhock Seed.— Owing to the disease affecting these noble plants for many j'ears past, the method of propagating them by cuttings has almost died out. The best way to ensure a good display of flowers is to treat the plants as biennials, sow the seeds in September, and winter the young plants in a clean cold pit. By this means a good dis- play of early flowers may be obtained. But good results may also be had by sowing in February and placing the pans or boxes over gentle bottom-heat. As soon as the seedlings arc large enough to handle, they should be potted into 3-inch pots and grown in a pit with a tempera- ture of 60° and quite near the roof glass. 90 THE GARDEN. [February 21, 1914. CORRESPONDENCE. [The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents.) Staking Sweet Peas. — In last week's excellent article mi " Staking Sweet Peas," by S. M. Crow, he mentions the one fault of sagging in " Sim- plicitas " Patent Netting Circles. May we, as the inventors, be allowed to point out that we are this season eliminating this very small fault in an otherwise perfect support by the intro- duction of a centre wooden ring. We have also introduced an iron foot to prevent the centre stake from working loose in the soil. — The Boundary Chemical CoiMPanv. Limited. Earwigs Eating Buddleia Foliage. — I notice- in The Garden, page xvi., issue February 7, under "' .Miscellaneous," in the " Ar«wers to Corre- spondents," a note to an enquiry about earwigs eating Buddleia, and you seem r?ther sceptical were only too well aware of the irregular and sluggish behaviour of the bulbs. They had not responded to heat as they should have done, and in some cases the bulb was blind. It was pointed out by two large dealers that the season of I9t3 was about two weeks earlier than that of 1912, whereas their Hyacinth bulbs were lifted at the date in both years. It is always uiiwise and risky to generalise on a too limited experience, and this is what, I fear, has been done. A longer acquaintance with the practice %vill either " kill or cure " it. Meanwhile we must go " steady," until this experimental stage has been passed. I would also like to say that I am by no means sure that I was right in what I said about bottom- heat. I find that there are advocates both for giving and withholding it, but that the majority favour it if it is not too strong. — Joseph Jacob. Two Useful Midwinter-Flowering Plants.— After the Chrysanthemum season is passed there is often a slump in plants suitable for the decora- A FRUITING SPRAY OF THE SEA BUCKTHORN. about it. 1 have a plant of B. variabilis on my house which is quite spoilt by earwigs every summer, some of the leaves being eaten or torn to, tatters and hanging by shreds. The young flower-sp kes also have the ends eaten off. I have not the smallest doubt about earwigs being the culprits ; they seem quite mad after the Buddleia. Two other trees of B. variabilis in the garden in the open are not much attacked. I trap the earwigs in the usual way in brown paper, and have also had to spray the trees with arsenate of lead, which, I presume, settles the pests, though I have not had the satisfaction of seeing the corpses. — C. G. O. B., Farnham. Prepared Hyacinths. — With reference to an article from my pen which appeared in The Garden for August 9, 1913, on " Prepared Hyacinths," I am sorry to say that they have not been the success this season that previous experience led me to anticipate. When I was lately in Holland, 1 found that the Dutchmen tion of the cool greenhouse or conservatory. It is not everyone who has the means and con- venience to fill their greenhouse or conservatory at this time of the year with expensive forcing plants and bulbs. Neither is it desirable to do so when plants less expensive, but none the less beautiful and useful, can be grown. The two plants which are the subject of this note are easily grown, and require nothing more than shelter from frost from the time the cuttings are rooted. The first is Salvia Heeri, which flowers during the greater part of January and February. The flowers are brilliant scarlet, borne on long, slender spikes or branches. They are most useful for cutting for indoor decoration, as they last for a considerable time in water. Like most other members of this race, they may be readily increased by cuttings inserted in sandy soil in the spring and placed under a hand-light. When established in pots, they should be grown in an exposed situation out of doors, and kept there till there is danger of frost. The second plant is Eupatorium vemale, which many readers of The Garden will be well acquainted with. The requirements of these two plants are practically identical, except that the latter, being of dwarfer habit, may be accommodated in a cold frame til] the end of the year. — E. Harris, Lockinge. Is the Sea Buckthorn Poisonous ? — Reterrmg to the observations on wild birds and the Sea Buckthorn under " Notes of the Week," issue January 10. can it be that the berries of this native shrub are poisonous, and is this the reason why, in some parts of the country at least, the berries remain imtouched by birds even in a hard winter ? So far as the alleged poisonous proper- ties of the berries are concerned, there is an amusing reference which I have seen quoted from Rousseau's'' Reveries VII. Promenade." After eat- ing a quantity of berries, which he found " very pleasant," he was warned that they were poisonous. " Nevertheless," he says, " I felt as I feel now, that every natural production that is pleasant to the taste cannot be harmful unless perhaps through excess. I confess, however, that I kept a watch on myself for the rest of the day, but, beyond a certain uneasiness, I felt no Ul-eficcts. I supped very well, slept better, and rose in the morning in perfect health, having swallowed the evening before some fifteen or twenty of the berries of this terrible Hippophae, a small quantity of which is poisonous, as they told me at Grenoble the next day." To the present \vriter the berries are unpleasant, but, is it really true '* that every natural production that is pleasant to the taste cannot be harmful unless perhaps through excess? " — C. Q. Saxifraga burseriana. — While the bruit of mortal conflict between Mr. Reginald Farrer and Mr. Clarence Elliott respecting the habitat of S. burseriana is still ringing in our ears, I think a few remarks concerning this dainty and early flowering alpine may be apposite. Whatever may be the behaviour of S. burseriana in shade. I think a glance at some plants of it which I have growing upon a moraine should convince the most sceptical that, subject to what I say about water supply, a position in full sunlight conduces towards a plentiful display of blossom. On each of three clumps not exceeding 3 inches in diameter I counted early in February upwards of thirty flower-spikes. The moraine in question is de- scribed by me in a chapter upon rock gardens which will be found at the end of " Gardens for Small Country Houses," bj' Miss Gertrude Jekyll and Mr. Lawrence Weaver. To one who knows how apt all Saxifrages are to " burn " in fierce sunlight, it goes without saying that a plentiful supply of water is necessary for S. burseriana during the summer. In the case of my moraine, this supply is provided by means of a perforated pipe. The initial expense of such an installation is soon paid for by the saving in labour of hand watering thus effected, and also by the decreased wastage of plants which might otherwise perish through drought, .As the result of the accidental inclusion of one clump of the Saxifraga beneath a sheet of glass provided to meet the wants of the damp-hating .Androsace sarmentosa, I am able to say that the effect of covering this Saxi- irage with glass during the winter months upon its flowering are very slight indeed. Glass for protecting the opened flowers is another matter. I confirm all that has been said as to the desirability of heaping up dry chips of rock round the necks of moraine plants during the winter. — Raymond E, Negus, Walton-on-Thamcs. February 21, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 91 PEAT MOSS MANURE IT INJURIOUS P IS Several enquiries have reached us recently as to the advisability of using peat moss litter manure in the garden. There is no doubt that in some instances, where it has been dug into the soU fresh from the stables, it has proved injurious to plant-life, though as a top-dressing it has proved excellent. Owing to the increasing difficulties in obtaining straw manure, this question is one of vital importance. We therefore invited the opinions of a number of scientific and practical men in various parts of the United Kingdom. Herewith we publish a selection of these, and it will be seen that there is some difference of opinion on the subject. Given the choice between manure made from peat moss or straw, I should use the latter. It gives the best results in the long run. The peat moss manure, though, is distinctly valuable, especially on light soils, which dry out quickly. Once it is thoroughly moist, it retains its water supply in a fashion all its own, and the plant roots can get at it even when the surrounding soil is dried out. I have never seen it acting injuriously, but it is only right to say I have only seen it used on the extensive scale for the culture of vegetables. Cambridge. R. H. Biffen. I FEAR I cannot give you any very definite infor- mation about peat moss litter as manure. I know that when kept for some months, and when turned a couple of times, it is an excellent sur- facing for Primulas, Wallflowers, &c. I tried it here one year with some vegetables, and with some Primula seedlings as a manure, and in both cases the result was not satisfactorj^, and the men have a great prejudice against it as a manure. It makes no difference to them in any way ; hence they have no interest in the matter, and as it is easier for them, to work than cow-manure, I came to the conclusion that there must be some grounds for their dislike of it. I was not at all satisfied that it was in fault as regards the seedling Primroses ; but the man in charge of them, an experienced man, still strongly maintains that it was the manure. Personally, I prefer cow- manure if I can get it, or even well-decayed stable litter. We found that for small stuff and for ground where bulbs were that the most useful and safe manure was old hot-bed material, used the following spring ; that is to say, hot-beds which were made up in January, rgis, are now being used as manure. This is very well decayed and crumbles dovro easily. F, W. Moore. Royal Botanic Gardens, Glasnevin. Personally, I would prefer peat moss litter manure to straw manure. The original acidity of the peat absorbs a high percentage of ammonia, and is, therefore (all other factors being the same), of higher available nitrogen value than straw manure. In addition, it has a distinct value from a physical point of view ; it raises the water- holding power of the soil. I know of a garden close to this city where peat moss litter manure is used entirely, and the gardener believes absolutely in it as a good crop producer. I have in my own gardening found it excellent for herbaceous borders. D. Houston. Royal College of Science for Ireland, Dublin. Your letter of February 7 has been referred to me for reply. Experiments at this College have shown the absorptive power of good peat moss litter to be about three times as great as that of straw, but different samples vary considerably in their power of absorbing liquids. At the Arm- strong College, Newcastle, for example, it was found that one sample absorbed eleven times its own weight of water, while another sample took up only nine times its own weight. Chemi- cally, peat moss contains more nitrogen than straw, but considerably less potash and a little less phosphoric acid. Average analyses made at this College are as follow : Ptiat Moss. Straw. Per cent. Per cpMt. Nitrogen .. .. 0-8 .. o'S Phosphoric acid .. o'l .. o'3 Potash .. .. 0'2 .. i'5 The nitrogen in peat mo5s, though greater in quantity, is probably less available to the plant than that in straw, so that peat moss in itself may be considered to be of less manurial value than straw. But, owing to its greater absorptive power, the manure made from peat moss litter is richer than manure made from straw, as the following analyses made by Dr. Dyer (see " Standard Cyclopadia of Modern Agriculture ") show : Stable Manure made wltfi Straw. Arerage of 3 samples. Pe'' ant. Stahle Manure made with Peat Moss. Average of 2 samples. Par cent. Water . . 70*03 .. 77-84 Organic matter 24*28 l8-02 Phosphoric acid 0*48 0-37 Lime . . . . o* 70 0-33 Potash .. 0-59 I ■ 02 Magnesia, &c. 1-30 I -08 Siliceous matter 2-62 1-34 100 • 00 TOO* 00 Total nitrogen 0-62 0*88 It will be noticed that the peat moss manure contains a good deal more potash than the straw manure, although the peat moss itself was deficient in potash. The difference is due, of course, to the potash absorbed from the excrement of the animals. Peat moss manure contains more nitrogen than straw manure, and more potash, but a little less phosphoric acid and less lime. The physical effect of peat moss manure in the soil is, of course, rather different to that of straw manure, because the manure is always " short." We have used both here, but have not noted anything harmful about the peat moss. I am writing to a farmer who has had considerable experience with it, and will let you know what he says in due course. G. H. Garrad. South-Eastern Agricultural College, Wye, Kent. In reply to yours re peat moss litter, we do not use it here as a manure, as we have not found that which we have had from London satisfactory. F. R. Wilkinson (Principal). The Horticultural College, Swanley, Kent. Peat moss litter is best dug into the ground, as if left on the surface the pieces of peat are somewhat of a nuisance, as they do not decay readily. This manure, however, adds to the acidity of the soil and thus has a slightly deterrent effect on the growth of vegetation, and its value is more due to the fact that it soaks up liquid manure, and thus saves fertility that would run to waste, rather than to its own manurial value. The fibre is, of course, good for " opening up " a stiff soil, but, ton for ton, good stable manure is superior. P. McConnell. My experience with peat moss litter manare is neither very extensive nor very recent ; still, I have used it in the kitchen garden here, and both as a mechanical agent on our heavy soil and as a manure the results were quite satisfac- tory. I have also used it with good resu ts in Rhododendron culture. Since receiving your letter I have interviewed two of our best and most extensive farmers whom I knew used it largely. One of them always mixes it with straw manure from the local dairies, with excellent results with a"l kinds of farm crops. The other uses it alone, although be a'so uses some straw manure ; but he says if he could get sufficient peat moss litter for his 400 acres, he would use nothing e'.se. Both of these farmers pay about £3 los. per acre, and they grow Potatoes extensively. I have had the opportunity of observing the operations of a market-gardener within the municipal boundaries of Edinburgh for over thirty years. This man grows vegetables exclusively, and uses no other organic manure than peat moss litter. He grows excellent crops of all kinds of vegetables, as he would require to do, for he pays £10 per acre for his land and has to pay the City rates. Charles Comfort. Broomfield Gardens, Davidson^ s Mains, Midlothian. I HAVE seen peat moss litter manure used largely, with very good results ; in fact, I know a farmer who uses this in preference to any other manure for such crops as Potatoes, Swedes, Mangel Wurzel, &c., on heavy land. For my own part I would give preference to straw manure. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. I HAVE used peat moss litter manure from stab'.es, where the horses are regularly hard fed, for several years in fairly large quantities, but mostly for top-dressing herbaceous and Rose borders. Begonias and, indeed, almost all summer-bedding plants, also for all sorts of fruit trees and bushes, and I think it one of the best manures for this purpose. I never now dig it in ; the residue is usually raked off and burnt along with other garden rubbish. For kitchen garden purposes I think it inferior to straw manure, as on one occasion a very large proportion of my Potato crop rotted after an application of it dug in in the usual manner, and this, too, in a season when Potatoes did remarkably well under other conditions. I may add, however, that I used it for two years in succession on the flower garden beds, diggin? it in, without any bad results ; but, as I have not continued to use it thus, I am not in a position to say how long it would take to prove detrimental to the occupants of the flower-beds. Thomas Wilson. The Gardens, Glaniis Castle, Glamis, Forfarshire. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. February 24. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting and Exhibition. Lecture at 3 p.m. on " The Uses of Explosives and of the Blow Lamp." February 26. — Manchester and North of England Orchid Society's Meeting. Royal Botanic Society's Meeting. February 27. — Finchley Chrysanthemum So- ciety's Annual Meeting. Beckenham Horticu'tural Society's Meeting. 92 THE GARDEN. [February 21, 1914. BOWLING GREENS. 1 will materially assist in laying the- turves level. , To secure uniformity in the thickness of the i JHE game of bowls, the national game turves, they must all be passed through a mould of Scotland, has made rapid strides or shallow box. This is i inch, ij inches or in popular favour all over England 2 inches deep, according to the nature of the soil, j during the last ten or fifteen years, and i foot square or 15 inches by i foot. Each 1 There is ample evidence of this in our turf is turned grass downwards in the box, beaten ' public parks and pleasure grounds, down to make it flat, and whatever soil and roots all the most enterprising of our municipal corpora- remain above the level of the mould is cut off tions providing greens, the number of which are ' with an old scythe blade, as shown in the illus- T ROSES ON WALLS AND FENCES. w HEN quite bare, most of our walls and fences are somewhat unsightly. It also seems a waste to let such valuable space remain unoccupied. Few, if any, subjects could possibly tration. By this means every furnish such walls with so pleasing a beauty turf is exactly the same size and thickness, and there are no broken comers. The turves must not be laid straight across the green, but irom as well-selected and judiciously placed Roses. I write the last three words with a real mean- ing ; for how often do we find Roses placed to the very best advantage ? In almost all cases the lower portions of our walls and comer to comer, the join of | fences are bare after the first year or two. two turves being in the middle : Both this bareness and the lesser show of of the one next to it, as the bloom that comes after the first early glut ol bricklayer lays his bricks. If j flowers from the long growths of the previous season this is not done, there may ] can be minimised by placing some of our free be ridges all down the green, j growers and bloomers between the taller-habited formed where the turves join ' varieties. A BOWLING GREEN IN THE MAKING. THE WORK MUST BE FREQUENTLY TESTED WITH STRAIGHT - EDGE AND SPIRIT-LEVEL. being added to every year. It is also interesting to record that so popular is the game, the initial cost of construction is soon recovered by a small charge to the players. The charge made by one prominent corporation is one penny per half-hour for each player, this fee showing an average return of £40 per year for each bowling green maintained by that body. The first consideration is the selection of a site suitable for a bowling green. The position must be an open one, so that every portion of the playing pitch gets the maximum amount of air and sunshine. A full-size bowling green is 42 yards square. The piece of ground selected should not be much under 50 yards square, and fairly level. Greens half this width 'are some- times made, when there are only a few players to cater for ; but if the green is square, it permits of the play changing from the ends to the sides in alternate days or weeks, so that the ground is not wom in one direction. For the game of bowls it is more important than in any other sport played on grass to have a level surface. A perfect green should be as level as a billiard- table. Having understood this, it will be readily recognised how important every detail in the making of a green must be studied. The initial outlay will depend largely on the nature of the subsoil. One that is very porous need not have any brick rubble put in for drainage, the layer of ashes being sufficient. The making of bowling greens on heavy clay soils entails much more work. The ground must be excavated to a depth of r.-i inches ; if waterlogged, pipes must be put in for drainage. Fill in to a depth of 6 inches all over the position of the green with brick rubble and clinkers. With rammers make this as firm as possible. Next spread 3 inches of fine ashes all over, placing on this 3 inches of good soil ; this also must be made very firm, otherwise in a year or two it will sink and spoil the even surface of the turf. A thin layer of fine sand should be spread over the surface, which m rows. Only the best turf is suit- able for a bowling green, the procuring of this often being the most expensive item con- nected with the work. Where the price is prohibitive, a good bowling green can be made with good grass seeds in two years. September is the best month for sowing. Firms who specialise in grass seeds — Messrs. Carter, Raynes Park, and Messrs. Sutton, Reading, for instance — supply a special mixture for bowling greens, or a mixture may be made up of two parts of Crested Dog's-tail Grass (Cynosurus cristatus) and one part fine- leaved Sheep's Fescue Grass (Festuca ovina For example, no Roses will do better upon a \vM than Marie van Houtte, Catherine Mermet, Lady Roberts, Molly Sharman Crawford, Lady Ashtown, the white and pink Maman Cochets, Bridesmaid, and, in fact, numbers of our most beautiful Teas and their numerous hybrids, the mere names of which would occupy far too much space. Oftentimes, too, these free growers will cover a wall up to 10 feet and 15 feet. But my main object now is to pomt out their extreme usefulness, both as an aid to the better fur- nishing of the wall and to keep up a more continuous crop of blooms. Last year I noticed some good examples of this combination of climbers and our extra free dwarfer growers. In one case the climbers had gone quite 25 feet or 30 feet up the front of a house tenuifolia). The preparation of the green for raised upon a terrace. The sorts most used were seed-sowing is the same as for the turf, except that L'Ideal (extra good for this), Reve d'Or, Climbing instead of the turf, 2 inches of fine mould should Perle des Jardins, Reine Marie Henriette, Ards be spread over the surface. | Rover, Lamarque, and that always useful Noisette, At all stages in the making cf bowling greens ' Mme Alfred Carri^re. Most of the dwarfer varieties special and frequent attention must be paid to ; already named were planted at the foot and midway the levels, testing the work as it proceeds with a 1 between the climbers. A few flowers were still straight-edge and spirit-level. It is usual to have ' m evidence upon the latter, while the lower plants a ditch a foot wide all round a bovvling green, J were simply a mass of bloom. There is yet another with batten trellis-work in the bottom to catch 1 advantage in these last, for they will throw many the bowls when they roll off the green. Another I very useful late flowers after those in the open familiar object beyond this on many greens is a j are past, the protection of the wall being just what raised bank i foot or 15 inches high sloping from j is needed to develop the latest buds. There is the green. As an edging to the green, boards about ! little good in naming more varieties, but I would an inch thick and 6 inches to 9 inches wide are | call attention to the need for more generous feeding placed in the ditch, sufficiently low for the thickness of the turf to rest on the top edge of the boards. In a short article such as this it is ordy possible to touch on the main points in the making of a bowling green. Too much importance can hardly be attached to the use of the very best turf, and where this is prohibitive in price seed sowing must be resorted to. Constructed in such widely different localities and vmder varying conditions, these have much to do with the exact methods adopted by the green- LII-TING THE TURVES. THESE MUST ALL BE UNIFORM makers. SIZE AND OF THE FINEST QUALITY, February 21, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 93 THE TURVES ARE PLACED GRASS DOWNWARDS IN A MOULD AND THE SOIL CLTT OFF WITH AN OLD SCYTHE BLADE. than our well-established wall Roses often receive. Because they have grown well, it does not mean they are in no want of this attention ; rather the reverse. Oftentimes they are in a very narrow border, with a hard and uncultivated roadway or path at their foot. It is realiy astonishing to see how well many of our vigorous climbing subjects do in such positions. Wistarias, Magnolias, &c., as well as •our Roses, thrive as well as could be expected if they have ample root-run and cultivation. We can help them a great deal by the extra free use of liquid manures, and should not be applied now, but in the summer and autumn. When contemplating the planting of such strong growers, every advantage should be seized of making the surrounding soil as congenial and rich as possible ; for we can so seldom get the opportunity again. The plants are generally put in as a permanency, and the walls themselves draw much moisture from the soil. A. P. HARDY CHINESE PRIMULAS. THE Primulas from China are becoming of great importance to horticulture, and, numerous as they are already, it is certain that their numbers will be greatly increased, not only by new finds, but also by the hybrids which are being raised. It is indeed surprising to realise how rapid has been the influx of these Chinese Primulas. Professor Bayley Balfour, in his paper at the Primula Conference of the Royal Horticultural Society in 1913, summarised the progress in a lucid manner. From his notes we gather that I-ehmann's monograph of the family, published in 181 7, did not include a single Chinese species. Twenty-seven years later, Duby, in De Candolle's ■" Prodromus," admitted only one Chinese species — the well-known greenhouse plant P. sinensis. Pax, forty-four years later, gave only thirty- seven Chinese species out of a total number in his monograph of the genus of upwards of 144. In 1905 the same authority described eighty-eight Chinese PrimuJas in Engler's " Pflanzenreich." At the last Primula Conference upwards of 140 ' Forrest and the enterprise of Chinese species were recognised. Professor Bayley Messrs. Bees, Limited, is P. Balfour's classification is followed in these notes. 1 Bulleyana, which has come A considerable proportion of these Chinese rapidly to the front as one of the Primulas are tender, or only half-hardy, in culti- best of the newer hardy Chinese vation in this country, and I propose to deal at present with those which have proved fairly hardy. These alone form a valuable and numerous class, destined to occupy a prominent place in the gardens of the future. Taking them in alphabetical order, we first come to P. angustidens (Franchet). — This is synonymous with P. Wilsonii (Dunn), and was intro- duced by Messrs. James Veitch and Sons of Chelsea under the name of P. Wilsonii. It was discovered by their collector, Mr. Wilson, in the Tali district of Yunnan, and has been in cultivation since its introduction in 1905. It has frequently been sent out by nurserymen as P. vittata. It is closely related to P. Poissonii, and, like that species, belongs to the section Candelabra. P. angusti- dens is, however, a much better plant than P.. Poissonii, as it is not only hardier, but is a better bloomer, although the flowers are smaller. In many places where P. Poissonii will not stand the winter, P. angustidens has proved entirely satisfactory. It is a strong grower, and under favourable conditions will reach a height of fully 2 feet, and will bear a number of lilac-purple flowers. The foliage is bright green and glossy. It is naturally a lover of moisture, but is not difficult to accommodate in a border or bog, among the moist grass, or in the lower parts of the rock garden. Its strong scent is a point in its favour, while the fact that it seeds freely will soon make it plentiful in cultivation. Culti- vation : Good rich soil ; damp situation ; half shade. P. Beesiana (G. Forrest). — This species, raised by Messrs. Bees from seeds sent by their collector, Mr. George Forrest, in 1908, appears to have been distributed about 191 1. It also belongs to the Candelabra section, in which six purple- flowered species were recognised by Professor Bayley Balfour in his paper. It comes from the Tali region of Yunnan, and is a native of the moist meadows. It is a vigorous species, but is not so reliable in cultivation as its ally P. Bulleyana. It is said to reach as much as 3 feet in height when in congenial circum- stances, but it is rarely seen of this stature. It bears whorls of velvety purple flowers, brightened by a yellow eye, which rise on a sturdy scape from amid the Primrose-like leaves. Some do not care for its colour, but it is likely to be of considerable value to hybridisers. Cultivation : Pure pulverised loam to which has been added some leaf-soil ; half shade is best, but it does well also in full sim if soil is moist. P. Bulleyana (G. Forrest).- Another of the v a 1 u a b 1 1 Primulas we owe to Mr. George/ Primulas. It is now so well known that little need be said regarding its appearance. It has certainly come to stay, and whether as a distinct species or as the parent of a series of hybrids is bound to exercise an important influence upon the gardens of the future. It has handsome Primrose-like leaves, from among which spring tall scapes of flowers in whorls, rising in graceful tiers one above another. It lasts for a long time in bloom, and the effect of the flowers is practi- cally indescribable, as they pass through various hues from their first showing colour till they fade off. The colours shown may be said to embrace scarlet, buff, orange and apricot, the final tint being a good yellow. This is a very easy Primula to grow, and may be suited either in any ordinary moist soil or by the side of a stream or pond, or in a moist meadow. It is vigorous and hardy, and seeds freely in the garden. Cultivation : Same as P. Beesiana. Hybrids of P. Beesiana and P. Bulleyana.— From seeds of P. Beesiana x P. Bulleyana a race of pretty Primulas has been secured, these being of a coppery red and of better growth than P. Beesiana. P. capitata (G. Forrest). — Authorities appear to agree that the Himalayan P. capitata (Hook.) is represented in China by several forms. Of these, P. sphaerocephala, Balfour fil., and P. pseudo- capitata have been introduced, but are as yet little known. They bear a considerable resem- blance to P. capitata (Hook.), and are characterised by the possession of the same globular heads of purple-blue flowers. From a garden point of view these may be classed with P. capitata, which is not generally a long-liver. They grow naturally in gritty soils and on grassy hillsides. P. sphaero- cephala comes from the Kari Pass in Yimnan, and P. pseudo-capitata, which was collected by Kingdon Ward for Messrs. Bees, Limited, and introduced in rgrr, comes from Atuntsu in the same province. Cultivation : Good loamy soil in a shady position. P. Clementinse (G. Forrest). — This is a small plant which was introduced by Messrs. Bees, Limited, in 1908. It is more or less covered with farina, and the slender scape, considerably longer than the leaves, carries several lilac flowers at its summit. Cultivation : Loamy soil with the addition of a little coarse sand ; half shade. Morelands, Duns. John Macwatt. (To be continued.) LAYING THE TURVES WITH THE AID OF THE TURF BEATER. 94 THE GARDEN. [February 21. 1914. truthfully be applied. It is one of the whites of the future, or I am greatly mistaken. In Silver Spur we have a fine large bicolor trumpet. Considering its price {about 2S. 6d. per dozen), I wonder it is not more known, for it supplies a want, inasmuch as it provides a contrast in form to the stiff and well-known Victoria. It has a large flower, quite as big as a Duke of Bedford, with a ver>' refined-looking deep yellow trumpet and not at all a bad perianth. Only it is so very inapplicable to readers of The G.\RDEN. I would have said it must have heard the old proverb about casting pearls before swine ; it is so sparing with its blooms. It is not stingy like some, nor prodigal like others. One big bulb, one good flower, is its rule, and one which is seldom broken. DAFFODIL NOTES. Irregularity of Pot-grown Bulbs. — There is general chorus of complaint about the irregularity with which pot-grown stuff is flowering. In some way or another the season of 1913 affected the ripening of the bulbs. When I was in Holland in the early days of this month I saw an example of it at a small market-grower's at Beverwijk, where a fine healthy batch of Emperors were displaying this undesirable behaviour, some of [he plants being almost in flower, while others were but half grown. Irregularity is a serious thin^ for those who cater for the cut-flower trade, as it means a much less number of boxes can be passed through the houses in the course of a season. The amateur who grows Daffodils in pots is not concerned with the question of profit, but he is, naturally, not over-pleased when he finds that in a potful of five or six, two or three bulbs have almost done flowering when the others arc only just commencing. This year, at any rate, it is not the dealer or grower who is in fault, but our old friend the Clerk of the Weather, who evidently was not thinking of the forcing season when he was regulating affairs in the spring and summer of 1913. Coming from the general to the particular, I am wondering how far this abnormal year has upset my theorj' of how to produce good blooms early in the year. By this I mean blooms fairly in " character." Twelve mouths ago my dodge " worked," but is only " so-so " in its results this present season. I am not the only one who is experimenting in this direction, for at Hillegom I saw the prac- tical outcome of another " dodge " to promote good early growth. Here the difference between the ordinary and the other was most marked. Of these more anon. Some Good Varieties for Early February. — With accumulated experience, certain varieties are beginning to stand out as good for early work in pots. Foremost among these' I must place Fairy, a very free-flowering yellow belonging to Division I. Its prominent and distinguishing characteristic is the fine bold roll - back of its widely ex- panded trumpet. It is naturally a dwai-f Under bicolors I must just mention the cheap g'ower, but this is no detriment to its value and pretty Queen Bess as an excellent incom- as a garden plant — rather the reverse, as it affords 1 parabilis (Division 2B) for pots or for growing Forced Bulb Show in March seems to have reminded people of the potentialities of ' the Narcissus family as pot plants. Gradually the best are crystallising out, and doubtless more than two or three are experimenting as to the best means of producing good early flowers. The collection that I have already referred to at Hillegom belonged to the celebrated firm of Messrs. R. van der Schoot and Sons. In alJ there were forty-five varieties, most of themi represented by two or three panfuls. The majority were their own Poetaz and trumpet varieties. Among the former. Sunset and Triumph were particularly good. As I saw Sunset it was a more effective flower than Jaune k Merveille, inasmuch as its cup is a deep orange, which is- well set off by the pale yellow perianth. Fairj- was splendid. Hoboken, which is a sort of small, rather deeper- coloured Golden Spur, very early- and very free ; and the sweet- scented Vanilla, with its wide- mouthed trumpet and somewhat spidery perianth, were both good^ and are well worth growing: under glass. Does not all this- suggest a Daffodil house ? What pleasure such a structure might afford us all through Februarj- and March ! Then, when the Daffodils are over, it would just do for a collection of Darwla Tulips. Joseph Jacob. THE STATELY GALTONIA CANDICANS GROUPED IN THE BORDER FOR EFFECT IN LATE SUMMER. variety in height in the bed and border, while under glass it is always sufficiently long for any practical purpose. A desideratum in these early days among Daffodils is variety. We have a good many yellows, but not many bicolors and very few red cups. Whites, if we may so describe Mrs. Langtry and Minnie Hume, are equally scarce. Fairy Queen, which one might call a clean-cut-out Mrs. Langtry, is altogether a most delightful and satisfactory flower ; it " comes " easUy and freely, and when fully developed is one of the Leedsiis to which the adjective " petite " might in extenso for cutting. When we come to red cups, I am year by year getting more confirmed in the very high opinion I have formed with respect to the good qualities of Blackwell. My own two pots this year " were a treat," and would have done me credit at Birmingham. Alas ! alas ! the same money that can buy twelve fine bulbs of Golden Spur will only purchase one of Blackwell. I am glad to find that early culture under glass is more and more occupying the attention of traders. The Royal Horticultural Society's THE CAPE HYACINTH, (GaLTONIA CANDICANS.) This noble border plant is now so' often seen that it is cherished with the same feelings of respect ex- tended to those flowers that have been groAvn for centuries in our gardens. To those who are not acquainted with the introduction ■ if Galtonia candicans, it maj"- I ome rather as a surprise to learn that it was introduced by one who died in the spring of last \-ear. The introducer was Mr. Thomas Cooper, who spent much time collecting plants in South -\frica. Another well-known plant lor which we are indebted to hiim IS Asparagus plumosus. G. candicans is sometimes, known under the generic name Hyacinthus, or by the popular name Cape Hyacinth. It is a bulbous plant belonging to the Lily Order, with fragrant, white flowers from July till late September. The drooping flowers are borne on tall spikes 4 feet to 6 feet in height. It is well suited for planting in masses, in the flower border, or for mixing with peat- loving shrubs which are not tall enough to hide the handsome spikes of bloom. .Although it is a hardy subject, it is occasionally grown for the conser\'atory, where it is appreciated, as it makes- an admirable pot plant. It is of easy culture., showing preference for a rich, leafy soil to which a fair amount of peat has been added. It may be grown from seeds, but this is tedious, as the seedlings take four or five years to flower. The more satisfactory way is to increase it by offsets, from the bulbs. February 21, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 95 THE LENTEN ROSES. To those seeking to increase them by division — an operation that may be performed in autumn or spring — I would suggest the former as the best season, to save conflict with the flowering period and to enable the plants to become partially established before the coming of the new leaves. Lenten Roses are among those herbaceous perennials which I refer to as " perpetual rooting " ; hence they may be planted or transplanted over a some- what extended period of time. The Christmas It so happens, however, despite their many graces, Roses, on the other hand, are distinctly periodical their abundant flowering and simple cultural I in root production ; hence, for these, if we would requirements, that these Lenten flowers, while have of their best, I have unhesitatingly set apart prized by some, have never been greatly popular. August and September as the only rational planting IF by reason of their purity of blossom and winter flowering the Christmas Roses stand alone in their season, those of the Lenten section are equally without a rival for quaint beauty and distinctive colouring at any time, and as such merit the atten- tion of those who garden chiefly in the open air. Rather has it been left to the few who specialise in good things to take them upon their merits and make of them the success they deserve to be. Were the tenn " retiring " or " reserved " possible oi application to a flower, then I would cer- food for much thought tainly say that these Lenten Roses merited some such a phrase, see- ing that theirs is a beauty apart — something to be looked for — and not making for ostentatious display. Hence for those who see beauty only in gaudy flowers, these are not well suited. All the same, it is not too much to urge that, even without flowers, in cer- tain localities and soils they would merit cultivation for their leafage alone. Lovers of shelter and appre- ciating the proximity of evergreens or shrubs to protect them from the biting winds of spring, this and a great depth of cool and, if possible, moist loam would appear to be among their chief needs. Shelter, indeed, if we would retain the winter beauty of their leafage till the arrival of the new, would appear more or less a necessity, though even this is modified by circumstances, parti- cularly those of soil and soil moisture. Given the shelter of Hazel bushes, these plants, too, are very charming in the wood- land, the same kind of shelter standing them in good stead when growing in lighter loams over chalk. Indeed, there would appear to be much in chalky loams to satisfy their needs, the cooling influences of stone and soil depth apparently suiting them as much as the lime, which they seemingly assimilate to their advantage. But they are not fastidious, and one may see them occa- sionally in perfection in the strongest of loamy soils. One item, however, is important, viz., that a considerable soil depth be assured, and certainly not less than 2 feet. In this connection mention should be made of their remarkable root activity, which, with its abundance, quite accounts for their somewhat voracious appetite. To some extent the great root system of these Lenten Roses finds its parallel in the fiue leafy bushes above the ground, which could not receive adequate support otherwise. Hence it should be clear that soil of a generous character and depth would be much to their liking, and if to this be added light shelter, then, I think, we have pre- sented in nutshell form their chief cultural requirements. season of the year. The genus Helleborus is the only one I recall at the moment where these differences of root production are so obvious, which to the observant gardener should give THE RED-FLOWERED PLUMBAGO. In most private gardens this beautiful plant. Plum- bago rosea, is usually grown in pots, and certainly it is a most useful subject for dotting about among Palms and Ferns in a large stove ; but, I think, to get the best results it should be planted in a bed or border. Evidently this plant enjoys a fairly free root-run, for it produces much stronger foliage and flower-spikes when planted in a narrow border and trained up the back wall of a warm house. Here the wall of the stove is completely covered with it, and such has been the quantity of flower- spikes produced that we have been able to decorate several large dinner-tables with it this winter, and there are still a large number of spikes just opening their flowers. The plants are growing I in a narrow border about fifteen inches wide FLOWERS OF THE LENTEN ROSE, HELLEBORUS ORIENTALIS, A PLANT FOR THE SHADY BORDER. A primary attribute of not a few Lenten Roses is the profuse spotted character of the flowers, some of which are very beautiful, while others, of rich or deep plum or purple colouring, appeal to a large number. Unfortunately — or other- wise— the flowers are not of great service in the cut state unless the stems are split longitudinally, and, even 'so, they never appear quite happy ; hence their best place is the garden where they associate well with plant and shrub in woodland and other places. Some good varieties are antiquorum James .\tkins, rose pink ; a. Willie Barr, also rose coloured; orient alls (see illustration) ; colchicus and c. magnificus, plum and crimson coloured respec- tively ; Apotheker Bogren, crimson-purple ; gutta- tus, white, spotted crimson ; and g. sub-punctatus. These Lenten Roses are free seeders, and readily submit to cross-breeding. E. H. Jenkins. and the same in depth, in fibrous loam, with the addition of a 6-inch potful of bone-meal to. each barrow-load of loam. Beyond heavy syring- ing during the summer months and an occasional pinching of the growths to ensure an even distri- bution of the flowers, the plants have received no special attention. It is necessary to pinch the growths at least three times, for, if left to grow as they like, aU the flowers will be at the top, which detracts from the appearance of the plant when grown on a wall. A sharp look-out must be kept for thrips, which play havoc with the foliage if allowed to get a hold. An occasional syringing with Niquas is a good preventive of this pest. After the plants have finished flowering they are cut down to within a foot of the ground, the border top-dressed and kept slightly drier till growth commences in the spring. 96 THE GARDEN. [February 21, I9i4- Perhaps it will interest some of your readers who have dinner-tables to decorate to know that a table much admired here was done with Plumbago rosea mixed with sprays of Deutzia gracilis. This makes a very graceful combination, and it lights up well. James G. Bes.\nt. Oak Park Gardens, Carlow, Ireland. VIOLETS IN THE OPEN GARDEN. One of the prominent flowers of the season is the popular Violet, and many gardeners go in for its culture somewhat extensively. Encouraged and protected by glass, in one form or another, Violets can be coaxed to do marvellously. They are, however, eager enough to flower in the open, and will do so under almost any conditions so long as the weather remains mild. Should hard weather be encountered, however, many growers NEW AND RARE PLANTS. Iris Cantab. — We believe this beautiful early bulbous variety, which, presumably, is of the reticulata set, was raised by Mr. A. E. Bowles, and it is certainly one of the most charming of its class. The fragrant flowers are singularly compact, and nearly six inches high as sho%vn. The standards are pale blue, falls pale violet, with narrow golden crest. From Messrs. H. Chapman, Limited, Rye. Award of merit. Rhododendron moupinense. — This new Chinese species was exhibited under the provisional name of warleyense, a little 6-inch-high bush, having three large white flowers of about two and a-half inches across, in which were seen deep chocolate- coloured anthers. The blossoms have a horizontal inclination. The Box-like leaves are obovate, entire, about one and a-half inches long, and nearly C. J. Phillips ; Odontioda Diana variety Gladys, from Messrs. J. and A. McBean ; C\nnbidium Schlegelii Southfield Variety, from Mr. VV. Butler ; and Odontioda Lucilia, a mauve and purple variety with dark blotches, from .Messrs. Charlesworth and Co. The foregoing plant novelties were shown before the Royal Horticultural Society on the loth- inst. SEASONABLE NOTES CARNATIONS. ON B RHODODENDRON MOUPINENSE, A NEW DWARF HARDY CHINESE SPECIES WITH WHITE FLOWERS leave the beds to look after themselves ; whereas, if given a little care while such weather lasts, which is generally only for a few days, the roots would more than repay for the trouble in the extra flowers they would then produce. Violet-beds should always be so situated as to be somewhat protected from the keen winds, and, of course, replanting should be done frequently enough to ensure the crowns being always full of vigour. From the start of blooming to the finish in the early spring it pays to give outdoor Violets a light dressing of Peruvian Guano from time to time. If the weather is mild, the guano may be applied once a month ; but if there is much hard weather, once in six weeks will be sufficient. During hard frost give the plants protection, by night at any rate, placing a light frame of lath over them — to prevent crushing — and covering with mats or anything else that comes handy. By following these hints open-air Violets will give satisfaction. J. T. B. an inch broad. The exhibited example was said to be about five years old ; hence might be of the greatest value in the rock garden. The species is said to be quite hardy. From Miss Willmott, Warlev Place, Essex. Award of merit. NEW ORCHIDS. The number of Orchids to gain distinction was even greater than usual. Sir Jeremiah Colman, Bart., gained a first-class certificate with Dendro- bium Lady Colraan, a magnificent hybrid of purple and velvety maroon colour. Baron Schroder gained a first-class certificate for Cypripedium Pyramus and an award of merit for Cattleya Trianffi Mr. de B. Crawshay. Awards of merit were granted to the following : Cymbidium gottianum Westonbirt Variety and Odontioda Margaret Westonbirt Variety, both from Lieutenant-Colonel Sir George Holford, K.C.V.O. ; Cattleya Triaiue Mrs. Phillips, shown by Mr. ORDER Carnations are not yet quite extinguished by the immensely popular Perpetuals, and a very nice way of growing a selection is to place them in pots — 7 inch for preference — in the South, standing them in the open till the flowering stage ard housing them during that period. In the North it is better to grow them the whole time under glass. The plants do better and flower a few weeks earlier than those growing in the open. Lady Hermione, can be kept in health only by pot culture, and, as a rule, the lovely flakes, bizarres and white and yellow ground Picotees are easiest to pre- serve in robust health when grown in pots, but, of course, without being coddled. A compost suited to soft-wooded plants generally suits border Carnations equally well, the one thing they and all sec- tions of Carnation abhor being deep potting. For Outdoor Cultivation. — I need not labour to prove the extreme hardiness of the Carnation, and only remark that this physical quality permits of those which have been wuitered in pots to be planted ui beds and borders in early spring as soon as the soil is in a fit condition to work. Those planted early in the year are invariably superior when in flower to those kept on till March or April. If it is not possible or convenient to plant now, the plants should have manure to keep them from becoming more or less starved. Plants rooted from cuttings late in autumn are not to be despised, such a free-flowering variety as Raby Castle, propagated in that way, giving abundance of bloom till quite late in the year, and for that reason stock from cuttings is more desirable for use in mixed flower borders than that from layers. .Autumn-planted layers will now appreciate a dressing of soot, which, besides acting as a slow stimulant, keeps birds from pecking the leaves. Malmaisons. — Plants which have been wmtered in 3-inch or 4-inch pots are ready to transfer into others 6 inches or 7 inches in diameter. I now grow very few plants, but at one time I preferred to pot them on in autumn into 6-inch pots, and the strongest of these, being shifted at this season into 8-inch and 9-inch pots, were induced to grow on continuously till the ne.xt autumn, when a crop of bloom was secured ofi the side shoots. Old plants not to be given a shift must have manurial aid and, as occasion permits, be rcstaked, weakly shoots cut away, and leaves that have recently perished removed. February 21, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 97 DESIGN FOR A SMALL FRONT GARDEN. I I REPOTTING A YOUNG PERPETUAL- FLOWERING CARNATION : A, DEPTH TO REPOT ; B, WHERE TO PINCH OUT THE YOUNG GROWTH. Perpetuals. — Young plants recently placed in a^inch pots fill the latter with roots in the space of a few days, and must then be transferred to larger ones — ^ther 3-inch or 4-inch — a check from underpotting at this stage being inimical to the whole future of the plants. The Perpetuals succeed in such a variety of soils that no one need hesitate to attempt their cultivation on account of soil, the chief point being to make it open enough by means of lime rubble and sand, if too close, to preserve it in a porous condition. Animal manures should be employed with the utmost caution, but a little artificial manure is of benefit in strengthening the plants. There is some diversity of opinion regarding the temperature which the young plants should have, some growing them warmly with slight ventilation. I rather prefer to grow them right on with free ventilation, .and not much heat other than that derived from the stm. Growth is slower at first, but in the long run the cooler treatment is the more successful. I must not forget to note the serious effects that follow deep potting, and to this may be traced the ■deaths that occur in some collections. Flowering stock is now awakening to fresh vigour .after the weary \vinter, and will now respond to Nature's advances if frequent applications ■of manure are given. Plants in s-inch ar.d 6-inch Tpots may be repotted into those two sizes larger, .and the whole examined for withered foliage. Stems from which the flowers have been cut ■still further shorten to well-placed young shoots, ■and tie all young shoots loosely but securely in ibefore they lean over laterally. Seeds of Perpetuals should be sown at once, using very friable soil and germinating them in a temperature of 60° to 65°, in which the seedlings will very soon appear, after which transfer them to a lower temperature. Nothing is gained by sowing border Carnations so early. R. P. Brotherston. 1AM building a small villa for myself, and should feel favoured if you would kindly give me your views of the best way to set out my front garden. There is about twelve inches of good top soil ; after that clay. Roses do very well. Would a sort of Dutch garden do, with Roses and old York paving ? T. B. [It is assumed that the owner of this villa does not wish to approach the front door by a road wide enough for vehicular traffic, and therefore has a considerable space to devote to gardening on this side of the house. To use his own words : " There is about twelve inches of good top soil ; after that clay. Roses do well." Certaitdy, then, he should use RoSes largely in the planting, and the design given in the accompanying illustration has been prepared specially with this in view. If the beds seen in the plan are too simple in outline, remember that Roses cannot be used successfully in beds of fancy shapes, because they will not fit to the beds when they grow. Such Roses as are included in the planting scheme should have the longest possible period of flowering. Dwarf Roses only should be used in these beds, as the area is not large enough to overcome the aggressive appearance of standards. The design for a garden such as this cannot be too simple, and the only hard paths introduced should be between those points that must be approached. Roses, principally Hybrid Teas, that give the longest possible period of flowering are eminently suitable. It is better, however, to make provision for the introduction of a few other plants, as Roses by themselves are not attractive at certain seasons of the year. I. Could be either trellis covered with pink Roses and pale blue Clematis, or an evergreen hedge to screen off the approach to garage. 2. This border could be filled with pink China Rose Hermosa and clumps of Lavender, with white Madonna Lilies in the corners. 3. Trellis arch to screen off tradesmen's door. 4. Lead figure or vase. 5. Rose Caroline Testout, carpeted with Viol.i Maggie Mott. 6. Rose Richmond and dark purple Viola. 7 and 8. Various good Roses of similar habit of growth as desired, principally cream and pink shades, and cream Viola as edging or carpet. 9. Rose Mme. Abel Chatenay and Viola Maggie Mott. 10. Rose General Macarthur and dark purp'e Viola. 11. Rose Hugh Dickson and purple Viola. 12. Rose Warrior and purple Viola. 13. This could either be Rose Fellenberg, allowe d to grow into a hedge, or, if a solid fence is used on which climbers could be trained, it could be filled with the choicest and best Roses that do not make rampant growth ; just a collection of " gems." the aspect being south-west. 14. Repeat No. 2, training the longer growths of the China Rose against the fence. 15. Wistaria sinensis or W. multijuga, and Jasminum officinalis major to train over porch. 16. Border for bulbs. Wallflowers and a few summer-flowering plants ; this border to be changed with the seasons and always kept bright. Also plant the following creepers to train on house ; 17. Clematis Nellie Moser. 18. Jasminum nudicaule. ig and 20. Climbers to taste, remembering the aspect is north-east. 21. Flower border, say, Nepeta Mussinii and pink Antirrhinums. 22. Magnolia grandiflora trained on house. The grass area should not be an inch less than sho-wn on plan. The paved walk from the front gate should lead to some definite feature in the gardens beyond. — Ed.] r T-r T 1 r i f ||l)/Ul,l|Ull,|.^|||,l■U,ll,l.^ll.l.lliUI|l■^l■M.l.l.l■ll■^l■lllllll.lll.llll■llllllMllllllllll(lllll(llllllllWllllil^ — mm — PLAN OF A VILLA GARDEN. Irlii.Mil 98 THE GARDEN. [February 21, 1914. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. Late Vineries. — All late vineries sliould be sliut up and started gently by March i, as late varieties of Grapes require a long season to bring them to perfect maturity, and unless they are thoroughly finished by the end of September, the prospect of keeping them in plump condition through the winter will be much reduced. Very little fire-heat will be necessary for some time, as the temperature should not exceed 50° by night and 65° by day. Early Peach-House. — The growth on early trees will be sufficiently advanced to require frequent syringing with clear soft water, to keep aphis and red spider in check. The final dis- budding may now be accomplished, leaving a well- placed shoot as near the base of last year's growth as possible ; another may be left between the base and the terminal bud if space will permit, but nothing should be left beyond what can be conveniently tied in without overcrowding the tree. Very little thinning of the fruits should take place before the stoning period is over, and then select the fruits on the upper side of the branches, so that they may be fully exposed to the sun. Attend to the disbudding of successional trees, removing a few buds from each shoot at a time, so that no check in the growth may take place. The Orchard-House. — Give plenty of air to Apple and Pear trees which are in bloom, examine the pots twice daily, and give a good soaking of clear water when necessary. As soon as the crop is set, weak liquid manure may be given once or twice a week. Syringe the trees early in the day and avoid fire-heat as much as possible. Plants Under Glass. Chrysanthemums. — The earliest batch of plants will now be well rooted in small pots, and ready for potting into 6-inch pots. The soil may consist of two-thirds turfy loam and one-third leaf-soil, with sufficient old lime rubble to keep the soil porous. The pots must be clean and the soil made firm about the roots ; replace the plants in a cold pit on a bed of ashes. No fire-heat should be applied if sufficient covering can be found to exclude frost. The pit should be kept closed for a week or more until the plants are established, after which air should be admitted in increasing quantities until the lights are removed on fine sunny days, the aim being to produce sturdy, short-jointed plants, and consequently crowding must be avoided. Seed-Sowing. — Chinese Primulas for November flowering should be sown now. The soil may con- sist of fine sifted loam and leaf-soil in equal parts, with sufficient rough sand to keep the soil from becoming sour. Cover the seeds very lightly with fine sandy soil and place them in a temperature of 60°. if not already done, a sowing of Balsams, Celosia and Cockscombs should be made, also of Streptocarpus. The Flower Garden. Pentstemon Plants which were struck in cold pits during September should now be carefully potted into 3-inch pots and placed in a similar pit quite near the roof glass. Let the pit be kept closed until the roots are well established, after which air should be freely admitted until the plants are ready to put out about the first week in April. Antirrhinums. — If these were raised from seeds in the autumn, they should now be ready for planting where they are to remain, and if lifted with a good quantity of soil about the roots, they will commence to flower early in the season and continue for a considerable time. It is not too late to raise Antirrhinums from seed for flowering in .-Vugust and September. The Pleasure Grounds. Pruning Shrubs. — If not already done, this work should be finished with as little delay as possible, and the requirements of each individual plant must be considered as the work proceeds. .\ strong pruning-knife is the best implement for the purpose. Specimen Hollies should be care- fully pruned, and, where the branches have become too thick and crowded, a few may be carefully cut and drawn out so that the plant may present a more natural appearance, .^void pruning Laur.'ls and other large-leaved shrubs with shears, as by this means many of the leaves are cut and the plant made to present a most unnatural appearance. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Protecting Early Flowers. — In some districts Apricot flowers will soon require protection from frost, and this is best accomplished by thin canvas blinds, which should be drawn up every morning and run down again in the evening. Old fish- nets may also be used for the purpose, but care must be taken that neither covering comes in contact with the flowers. Strawberry Plants for autumn fruiting which have been wintered in small pots may now be planted on a well-prepared border with an eastern aspect. These plants do not grow so large as summer-fruiting varieties, therefore it is not necessary to plant them so far apart. St. Antoine de Padoue is one of the best for this purpose, and continues to produce a supply of nice fruit until quite the end of October. Seeds of alpine Strawberries may be sown now for autumn fruiting. The Kitchen Garden. Parsley. — The main crop of Parsley may now be sown as soon as possible. An open position should be chosen for the purpose, allowing 18 inches between the rows. Cover the seeds lightly with fine soil. Young seedlings raised under glass should be planted in a warm position as soon as large enough. This may prove a valuable crop in the early summer. Cauliflower Plants which have been grown in cold pits during the winter should have the lights removed every morning and replaced again at night, in order to produce good stocky plants for planting early in April. Further small sowings of Cauliflower should be made from now till tlie middle of May. Magnum Bonum and Dickson's Great Dane are splendid varieties for sowing now. Leeks. — The principal sowing of Leek seed should be made without delay. A good rich border should be chosen for this purpose, and the seeds sown in shallow drills a foot apart. Chervil. — Where this is in demand, a small sowing should be made every ten days, and during the summer the sowings should be more frequent. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Celery. — Those who are expected to have Celery towards the end of August will require to make a small sowing now. Sow the seeds thinly and place them in a temperature of about 60°. Whenthey have germinated, see that the seedlings do not suffer for the want of wafer at the roots, as this would assuredly cause them to bolt later. Perhaps there is no crop that will resent neglect in this way more than Celery. The plants will require careful attention right on till planting-time. Asparagus. — Should the weather be favourable. Asparagus-beds ought now to receive attention. Have all weeds cleared off and give a good dressing of rich manure. On established beds especially this will be all that is necessary. Where it is intended to make a new plantation, the ground should be trenched to a depth of 3 feet, adding some well-rotted manure and burnt refuse as the work proceeds. Leave the whole in a rough state till the end of March, or in cold districts till the second week in April, which will be quite soon enough to plant. Potatoes. — Early Potatoes may now be planted out of doors, say, on a narrow border at the foot of a south wall. Any of the early varieties now on the market may be planted, as, being against a wall, I find they are easily protected on the approach of frost or very cold weather. Turnips. — Seeds of Early Milan Turnips may be sown in rows on a warm border. The Turnips, of course, must be used when quite small, otherwise they would assuredly run to seed. The Flower Garden. Sweet Peas. — Where Sweet Peas are intended to be grown in a row, it will be well to throw out the trench now, say, to the depth of 2 feet or so. Leave this trench open until planting-time, when the soil mil be pulverised and mellowed by the weather. Previous to planting, this should be filled in, with the addition of manure and fresh soil. Anemones. — These beautiful perennials are becoming more popular than ever, and will well repay any little extra trouble one may take in their cultivation. To grow them well I find they require to be liberally treated. The present is a good time to plant. The ground, of course, should have been previously dug and well manured. Seeds may also be sown now of the beautiful St. Brigid variety. These will bloom towards the end of September. Being very slow in germinating, I find it best to sow in boxes and place them in a cold frame. They require careful handling until planted out. Polyanthuses. — Now will be a good time to make a sowing of Polyanthuses; at least, we seem to get better results from this sowing than from one made out of doors in May or June. Sow in pans and prick out the seedlings when ready ; these should make fine plants for putting out in the autumn. Lobelia cardinalis. — It is very doubtful if this attractive plant receives the attention it deserves. Last season I saw a charming bed of East Lothian Stocks, with Lobelia cardinalis used as dot plants. As seen from a distance the effect was very striking. To produce such an effect the Lobelia should be divided now, potted, and brought on very steadily. If placed into a larger size pot before planting, so much the better. FrcHU seed sown now very good plants may be had by September. Cannas. — The old stools should now be brought from their winter quarters, placed either in pots or boxes, and brought on gently in a moderate heat. Where it is intended to increase the stock, the old stools can be divided and potted up singly. Harden them off gradually, and see that they are not put out of doors tmtil all traces of frost have disappeared. Plants Under Glass. Achimenes. — ^These beautiful stove plants, which seem almost indispensable for adding a little colour during the summer, should now receive attention. Shake them out and place them in shallow pans or boxes filled with sandy soil, say, about an inch apart. When they have made about two inches of growth, they may be potted or placed in hanging baskets. In the latter I find they are most effective. During the growing season they should be constantly syringed to ward off red spider, to which they are very subject. Chrysanthemums. — From now till the begin- ning of March will be a good time to put in the main batch of bush Chrysanthemums. As the cuttings on the old stools are growing freely, care must be taken to select only sturdy shoots, and do not root in overmuch heat. Begonia Gloire de Lorraine. — Plants that were cut back early -will now be pushing up young shoots. They may be taken off and rooted where they can have a little bottom-heat. Plants that bloomed later should be cut back and syringed frequently ; these will supply cuttings later. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Spraying with Winter Wash. — Should this most necessary work not have been done earlier, no time should be lost in going over the trees. To destroy insect-life there is perhaps nothing better than caustic alkali, and, like all other operations of this kind, it must be done thoroughly, so that every part of the tree is treated. Great care must be exercised to protect the hands and clothes, as this solution is extremely injurious to both. Arsenate of Lead Wash. — It is a good plan to spray trees and bushes with this solution just as the flowers are opening, and again when the fruit has set. Arsenate of lead can now be had in paste form, and if used according to the directions, there need be no fear of doing damage. Brambles and Loganberries. — These may now be planted and treated in the same way as Rasp- berries. Fruiting canes may now be tied up, and remember that there is nothing gained by crowding them together ; in fact, when trained too close, it is almost impossible to get among them to pick the fruit. John Highcate. (Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.) Hopcloun Gardens, South Qucensjcrry, N.B. February 21, 1914-^ THE GARDEN. 99 HARDY CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR FLOWERING IN NOVEMBER. JekyU under the The Garden of THE note by Miss G above heading in January lo is most opport\me. There are now a great number of beautiful Chrysanthemums that flower very satisfactorily outdoors during Sep- tember and October, and the development of this section has been quite remarkable in recent years. 1 am quite in agreement with IVIiss Jekyll as to the value of those that come into flower in November, when outdoor flowers are so scarce ; and the getting together of other varieties than those named in the note in question should not be a very difficult matter, The three varieties mentioned by Miss Jekyll are among the oldest now catalogued by the Chrysanthemum specialist, I cannot trace the date of the introduction of Emperor of China (syn. Cottage Pink), which I have seen luxuriating in cottage gardens in my autumn rambles through the country ; but the variety Julie Lagravere, a dark crimson-red sort, was introduced by the late J. Salter so long ago as the year 1859. It is quite remarkable how well these old sorts retain their vigour. The foregoing are not large Pompons, but reflexed kinds. Soeur Melanie, raised by Lebois in r869, is generally recognised as a hybrid Pompon, and is classified as a Pompon by the National Chrysanthemum Society. It is indeed a beautiful plant, and is more appreciated because it comes into bloom just as the plethora of the early flowering kinds is coming to a close. In reply to the question raised, " Are there any more of this large Pompon class ? " I am pleased to name a few varieties that are but very slightly liuown by the present race of growers. The Christine family is excellent for this purpose, and is represented by Golden Christine (golden bronze), Peach Christine (peach colour). Pink Christine - imagine. So far as I am aware there is no published record of what are the proper ties of a show Viola. I ha\'e looked into old publica- tions dealing with th ■ show and fancy Pansies, and I find that to mai^e the show Viola conform to rules laid down for blooms of the show and fancy Pansies, as regards their properties, would lie to lessen the beauty and charm of the Viola. The show Pansies are so distinct from the Violas as we Ivnow tiiem to-day ; the latter are so free and graceful in tlieir character, and they possess a beauty peciliarly their own. No hard-and-fast rule can be laid down as to what a good Viola should be, and this remark applies to the question of size, form, co'our or marking. Beauty in respect to form, whatever the type may be, colour and marking, each has to be considered by those appointed to judge exhibition blooms, and the better these points are exemplified in the flowers set up for adjudication, the more will they commend themselves to judges who are true florists. Points worthy of consideration are the following : Size. — There is a tendency- to give too much attention to size, to the exclusion of many flowers of smaller varieties that possess points of quality far in excess of those seen in the unduly large flowers that are often very coarse. It is not difficult to deternrine what are well-grown flowers, and if these are a little above the average size, they always look well. In whatever way the flowers may t)e set up, whether it be in sprays, as was the rule years ago, or in bowls filled with sand, the blooms should be of consistent size and form. Prizes ha\'e often been lost because an exhibitor has arranged in a spray, &c., one or two undersized blooms. In such cases the better blooms have set the standard of quality, and the smaller ones ha\'e exhibited how far they have fallen short of the standard. Tlieu as regards colour, this, too, should be consistently good. Care is very necessary when gathering the blooms that the self-coloured sorts should be as nearly alike in colour as possible, and that fancy and edged flowers should be even in their markings and margins. In the nineties, when twelve sprays of Violas were set up, it was customary, in the classes for six blooms in each spray, to give one point as a maximum for each bloom, so that it was possible to obtain seventy- two points for a series of perfect sprays. In very close competition additional points were awarded for variety, arrangement and general effect. This system of awarding points works out very well, for in ordinary competitions, by allowing one point to each perfect bloom as a maximum, this may be reduced by fractions or otherwise in proper ratio for blooms less perfect. The total number of points gained by each competitor can then be very^ easily determined. Other considerations that are important in exhibition Violas are the following : Small, neat, bright eye ; flowers that are well balanced, absence of ragged or notched edges, freedom from waviness and blemishes, such as punctures by insects and dirt splashes. Most important of all, the flowers should be absolutely fresh. Stale flowers and any that may be in the least disposed to curl at the edges, should be discarded in favour of fresh blooms, even though they may be smaller. Preference should be given to blooms of stout, velvety substance, with the petals lying evenly and closely upon each other. Such blooms invariablv last longer and maintain their fresh- ness throughout the day of the show. The " Rules for Judging " issued by the Royal Horticultural Society defines the points in judging Violas as follows : (a) Good outline and stoutness of petal, one point ; (6) smoothness of petal and edge, one point ; (c) in selfs, well-defined colours, one point ; (d) in belted and blotched flowers, harmony without confusion, two points ; (e) erect, stoijt stems, blooms facing well to the front, one point. Each of these points has practically been dealt with in these notes, so the matter should now be perfectly clear. One judge who knows his business could judge the flowers quite satisfactorily ; but, so that suggestions of incompetence or uncertainty shah not be made, it is much better to obtain the services of two men who Icnow tlie Viola and its varieties, and in case of a dis- agreement it should be possible to call in an umpire. Highgale, N. D. B. Crane. WHY FORCED BULBS FAIL. EELWORMS EATING THE ROOTS. FOR a long time I was uncertain whether eelworms (by this term I do not mean the real creature, Heterodera radicola, but a white, worm-like grub with a black head, the larva of a gnat-like fly) really destroyed the living roots of bulbs, or that they were merely scavengers, eating up roots which had already decayed through the attacks of fungus or other causes. Many an argument have I had with a good Daffodil friend on this subject, he holding to the scavenger view, while I upheld the other theory. Then, some bulbs having been submitted to an expert, my opinions were for a time upset by him saying that the trouble was caused by a fungus and not by the eelworm. However, only just lately I have quite satisfied myself by discovering the creatures actually at work in the living roots of a Daffodil. Not out; VIOLAS ARRANGEIl WITH YOUNG HAWTHORN SHOOTS FOR EXHIBITION, IN A PAN OI- WET SILVER SAND. February 28, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 105 only, but three or four were seeu in the field of a small Coddington lens at one time, while the effects of their ravages were plainly observable in the tunnelled-out roots and frayed edges of the same. 1 have not the slightest doubt but what this pest is the principal cause of the failure of bulbs in pots, accounts of which constantly appear in your "Correspondence" columns and those of your contemporaries. I feel almost certain that these worms are not present in the dry bulbs, but are in the potting soil. My reason for this opinion is that one never finds bulbs attacked when grown in fibre, but only when grown in fibrous loam. Sterilisation of the soil seems to be the only remedy, and when soil has been thus treated it should be done some months before it is used ; in the meantime it should be turned several times, so that it may get well aerated. I have tried several soil sterilisers, both liquid and solid, but the eel- worm seems to thrive on them all. It is curious to notice how " chancy " the growing of bulbs is in infested S(.)il. For instance, at the present time I have a box of Daffodil Golden Spur as good as one could wish for, while another box of the same bulbs in the same soil has quite half the bulbs destroyed. Anyone who has constantly suf- fered from the attacks of eelworms can tell at a glance when the bulbs are affected, for, instead of the leaves growing freely away as they should, they make a feeble effort and then come to a standstill, and if the grower will take hold of the growth and give a firm pull, he will find the bulb come up without much resistance, the roots having been eaten away. One may examine a great many bulbs before finding the worms at work, one reason being that, having done their fell work, they may have moved to fresh fields and pastures new, and another reason being that the wretches are rather lively in their movements, and unless the roots are examined immediately after the bulb is removed from the soil, they will have wriggled away under cover of soil or the old skin of the bulb. Of course, eelworms are not the only cause of failure in bulb forcing, for some people can manage to spoil the best of bulbs even without their aid. Only quite lately my firm had some bulbs of Daffodil Golden Spur sent by post which only had one poor flower to six bulbs. On examining these it was found that every bulb had an embryo bud within, but the bulbs had evidently been submitted to too much heat and they had " gone blind," a disaster which will often happen when bulbs are given too high a temperature. Those who force large numbers of bulbs for the cut-flower trade find that only a few degrees will make the difference between success and failure. This is especially the case with Darwin Tulips. Mr. Leak of Messrs. Bath, Limited, who made such a grand exhibit of these Tulips in fibre last year, told me that it had taken him several years to find out the exact temperature to suit them. It is unfortunate that wiieu the average amateur has a failure with his bulbs, he immediately lays the blame on the bulbs themselves rather than on his methods of cultivation or the soil used in potting. The man of experience, on the other hand, looks to every other thing (soil, temperature, watering, &c.) before he thinks of condemning the bulbs. Some years ago, when judging pots of Tulips at the Midland Daffodil Show for prizes offered by the late Mr. Robert Sydenham, I had a lesson I have never forgotten. There were some six entries for the prizes, and there one could see very good, indifferent, and very poor plants, all grown from the same bulbs supplied by one firm ! I wonder if the growers learned the same lesson A CHANGE SEEDLING Iris Cantab. IKIS. On this page appears an illustration, almost life- size, of the new bulbous Iris which gained an award of merit at a recent meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society. This charming variety, which has pale blue standards and pale violet falls, with golden orange crests, originated as a chance seedling in Mr. E. A. Bowles' garden at Waltham Cross. It is probably derived from I. Krelagei or Max Leichtlin's I. cyanea, both of which were growing near to the place of origin. Although not unusual for Irises of the reticulata group to be weak in constitution, the new seedling, which, by the by, was shown by Mr. Herbert Chapman of Rye, grows very freely and multiplies rapidly, and for this reason it is likely to prove quite an acquisition for the open border. The flowers, which are borne about six inches from the ground, are fragrant, while they are far exceeded in height by the vigorous, deep green foliage. THE CULTIVATION OF COB NUTS AND FILBERTS. IRIS CANTAB, A BEAUTIFUL CHANCE CONSTITUTION. SEEDLING OF STRONG that I did, or whether the producers of the poor pots went- away blaming our old friend " Uncle Robert " for sending them poor bulbs ! I would say, in conclusion, that turfy loam contains far more insect-life, often including eelworm, than does ordinary garden soil ; so it might be well for those who have had bad results from bulbs grown in turf to try their ordinary garden soil, to which might be added sand, leaf-mould, Cocoanut fibre, or anything in that line which would tend to keep it open and sweet. In fact, it would be better to relj' upon fibre only than to use soil known to be infested with eelworm, unless it had been previously sterilised. Lowdham, Notts. J. Duncan Pearson. Nuts and wine 1 This phrase brings to mind a Georgian interior, mahogany tables reflecting the light from many candles, while the port, with due solemnity, makes its journey romid the board. But, as times change, the Nut becomes divorced from vinous liquors and figures as the main course of a vegetarian meal, a scene of frugality contrasting strangely with the older picture . But whether we take our Nuts in the old or the new style. Cobs and Filberts have a special appeal to English tastes. When the demands of these Nuts as to soil are considered, it is rather remarkable that they are so little planted. They will grow in practically any soil, but in moist ground they are apt to make wood rather too freely, and it is upon dry and rocky soUs that they floiu'ish best. In Kent the limestone rock called " ragstone " ofiers an admirable subsoU, and with the smallest of loam deposits on the surface the Cob grows to a remarkable age. Trees of 200 years can be seen planted 12 feet to 15 feet apart, and as they are tolerant of shade, Apples, Plums and other fruits are grown as standards between them. There must be many gardens where a dry, sloping bank or a neglected corner exists which could be made fruitful and pleasing to the eye by the planting of Nuts. The varieties now are many. A learned monograph in German lies before me which describes some eighty-seven kinds. The average gardener, however, will be content with rather less than this, and a good selection will be as follows. 106 THE GARDEN. [Fkbruaky 38, 1914. OUNNERAS GRSWING ON THE MARGIN OF GARDEN. The earliest to ript-n is the Prolific Filbert. This old sort was found in a Norwich garden about 1840, and is remarkable by reason of its curiously frizzled husks. The Nuts are small but sweet and are produced in bunches, often as many as twelve being found in one cluster. The Kent Cob or Lambert Filbert, so called after its raiser, Mr. Lambert of Goudhurst, Kent, is not really a true Cob, but is the best all round Nut now grown. The distinction between Cobs and Filberts is a very old one, and consists in the fact that in the Cob the Nut is not fully covered by the husk, while in the Filbert it is entirely so. The Kent " Cob " is therefore properly a Filbert. The old Kentish Filbert, which is considered by many to be the best flavoured of all Nuts, has now largely dropped out of cultivation on account of the greater fertility of more modem kinds. Some of the best Nuts are the seedlings raised by Mr. Webb of Calcot about thirty years ago, and one of them, Duke of Edinburgh, can be highly recommended for its excellent flavour. The Cosford is a most prolific variety, with a shell so thin that it may be cracked in the fingers (fairly strong fingers are required !), and Merveille de Bolwyller is probably the largest of all, a vigorous grower and of first-class flavour. The Purple-leaved Filbert is perhaps more often seen in the shrubbery than in the fruit garden, and its fruits are sometimes overlooked, as the husk and shell are of the same purplish red colour as the leaves. .^= to the culture of these Nuts, there is hardly a more long-suffering plant in the fruit garden ; but the trc s will, neverthe- less, repay occasional manuring, and wiol waste, rabbit fur, or feathers are largely used for this purpose in commercial plan- tations in Kent. In the Maidstone district a very re- stricted pruning is adopted, and a basin-shaped tree is preferred. The fruits i>n these trees are very large, naturally more so than those gathered from trees where less thinning is adopted, as in the north of Kent. The crops obtained from these trees are very variable, but are estimated at 7cwt. to 8cwt, per acre uver a series of years, while in years when there is a shortage, such as the present, the price of the Nuts is often 13. a pound or even more. Altogether there is no more useful plant to fill up odd comers of the garden, giving with so little expenditure of time so satisfactory a return. E. A. Buxv.^rd, ROCK AND WATER-SIDE GARDEN AT COPPED HALL. A POOL IN .A.X ESSEX COPPED H.\LL, Epping, was at one time a retreat of pleasure and privacy for the Abbots of Waltham. At the present time il is owned by E, J, Wythes, Esq,, who cherishes not only the historical associations of Copped Hall and its surroundings, but also the immense trees and the rare beauty of the spacious flower garden and lawns, which are pleasantly designed and admirably maintained. Remnants of the ancient garden of the monks are to be seen in the grand old Yew avenue which was figured in our issue of February 14, while the old-time interest of the garden is enhanced by the presence of venerable trees of the Cedar of Lebanon and a remarkably fine specimen of the Deciduous Cypress, Taxodium distichum. The Yew avenue leads to a shady and sequestered dell, now converted into a rock garden of rare beauty and delight. Although the position is ton shady for many flowers of the High Mps, which rejoice in all the light and air they may receive, yet there are many shade-loving plants which furnish this dell and make bright patches of colour at varying seasons. whUe the neighbouring !ree trunks are clothed with Ampelopsis and Clematises in variety. Though it was in the dull time of the year that our visit was made, the fine effects created by perennial Candytuft, Cerastiums, Campanulas, Primulas, the .'American Wood Lily (Trillium), dwarf perennial -Asters, London Pride and .Aubrietias may easily be conceived, A little stream flows through the rock garden, and is crossed by stepping-stones partly hidden by the River Mimulus, Primulas of the japonica type, Saxifraga cordifolia and Fems in variety, of which the Hart's-toagiie (Scolopendrium vulgare) and the Oak Fem (Po'y- podium Dryopteris), to.gether with Aspidiums and the Royal Fem (Osmunda regalis), are used with charming effect ; while growing by the stream- side are such hardy aquatics as Butomus, AJisma, Caltha palustris and Typha angustifolia. .\ beautiful collection of suitable shrubs, including Cntoneasters or Rocksprays, Japanese Acers in great variety, Berberis stenophylla, B. Darwinii, .\zaleas, Hypericums. Kerria japonica and Bam- boos, is planted with good effect in the back- ground of the rock garden. Flowering shrubs form one of the most delightful features of this garden, and many of Wilson's introductions from China were noted, while rarely, if ever, is Romneya Coulteri, the Califomian Tree Poppy, seen grown to greater perfection than against a wall in these gardens. In another part of the grounds is seen a large pool of water, which is being converted into a place of unusual splendour. Gunnera manicata looks magnificent planted on the margin of the pool, while later on the bank will be gay with the blooms of Japanese Anemones (pink and white), Siberian Irises, Rodgersias, golden- striped Rush, and Kniphofias or Torch Lilies. Bamboos and Weeping Willows are also planted to great advantage. COLOURED PLATE. PLATE 1488. THE COLUMBINES. Jk QUILEGIAS have long inhabited our f\ gardens, and in a Herbal which bears / % the date of 1564 Dr. Turner mentions ^^■^% A. vulgaris. This is the botanical ^ ^ name of the common Columbine, and single and double forms of various colours are found in abundance in gardens all over the country. Several very charming species were introduced into England in the first half of last century, and these beautiful Ranunculads are undoubtedly the forerunners of the exquisite strains of long-sprured hybrids found in commerce to-day. Aquilegias are somewhat widely dis- tributed over the globe, and species have been introduced from the dry, rocky districts of North- west Himalaya, from Siberia, Europe, Canada, and from Guatemala. Many of the species introduced into England have ceased to find a place in catalogues, and their place has doubtless been taken by the long- spurred hybrids^'-'One of the best of the species was A. leptoceras, the Slender-horned Columbine, and under this nameft was figured in thc^olaiiical Register, 64, It is described in the Journal of the Horticultural Society as having flowers of a pale bright violet, with the tips of the sepals greenish, the short petals a clear bright straw colour. It is a native of Siberia beyond Lake Baical. .A. jucunda, another native of Siberia, at one time known as the Joyous Columbine, Pebruary 28, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 107 is rarely met with in gardens. It differs somewhat from A. glandulosa, having an altogether dwarfer habit and flowers of a much brighter blue, and in its very glaucous, round foliage. It is a much easier cultivated species than A. glaridulosa, and a very pretty coloured plate of it appeared in the Floricuitural Cabinet, tor May, 1857. In the ^ame journal a coloured figure is also given of A. kanaogriensis^a native of Cashmere, intro- duced to the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew by Dr. Thomson. The flowers, about half the size ■of those of A. jucunda, are nearly similar in colour, and it is not met with, nor even listed, nowadays. It was also figured in the Botanical Magazine, 4,693. The Floricuitural Cabinet for August, 1853, -in a description of new or showy plants in bloom during that month at the Royal Gardens, Kew, mentions A. sibirica and A. fragrans^ Both are said to be showy, the former having large, deep blue coloured flowers, and the latter having very large flowers with the outside blue and the interior white,, 'They are seldom met with now. Many other species were in culti- vation about that time, and one of the most notable was A. alpina. This is one of the gems among the Aquilegias, and the true form is exceed- ingly scarae now. It is offered in lists, but the true A. alpina is hard to obtain. It is a native of the European Alps, bearing immense, spreading blossoms of a charming shade of blue. Coming to the species that are very probably the parents of the long-spurred hybrids, one of the loveliest is A. glandulosa. This beautiful native of Siberia has exquisite flowers of clear blue, with white below, ^t is a difficult sort to ^ow well. During recent years a hybrid variety named A. Helenas has been introduced, and it is said to resemble A. glandulosa. The writer has tried it, and discarded it as worthless. Undoubtedly the best of the hybrids from A. glandulosa that have received a name is A. Stuartii, raised by the late Dr. Stuart of Chirnside, the well-known Viola raiser, and distributed by Messrs. Cocker of Aberdeen. This hybrid, like its parent, is diflicult to cultivate well ; but we now have many unnamed hybrids in the long-spurred section that are quite as charming, and have the virtue of being easily grown. A. chrysantha, a tall, graceful plant with clear yellow, long-spurred flowers, has left its stamp almost indelibly upon ■the long-spurred hybrids of to-day, and is certainly one of the species from which they have originated. It is a native of New Mexico. A. Skinneri, at one time named A. mexicana, is another species to which we owe biu" modern varieties. This well- known Columbine has crimson red flowers tipped with orange, and the green mouth of the blossom is a conspicuous feature. A. californica, a pretty native of North America, is certainly another parent of the long-spurred hybrids. The spurs and petals of the flowers are a vivid orange red, and the mouths of the tubes deep yellow. Doubt- less A. Skinneri, A. californica, A. caerulea, A. chrysantha, and in all probability either A. glandulosa or A. Stuartii are the species from which the long-spurred hybrids have been derived in conjunction with the many garden forms of A. vulgaris. Quite a number of the leading seed firms have given a lot of attention in recent years to the development of the long-spurred Aquilegias, and the wonderful exhibits of them seen in the early summer at the Royal Horticultural Society's meetings are always a cantre oi interest. Efforts have b«en made to get the more beautiful forms to breed true to colour from seed, but this has never been done quite successfully. As already indicated, the new race of long-spurred varieties is easily grown. It is advisable to sow seed as early as possible, in order to get strong plants for putting out in September. Some growers believe in sowing the seed as soon as it is ripe, just for the purpose of getting the plants as forward as possible. They succeed in almost any good garden soil, but to obtain large, fine flowers the beds ought to be deeply cultivated and well manured., Quite one of the finest plantations" of~SquIIegias we ever saw was at Messrs. Dobbie and Co.'s seed farm in Essex. A very large bed was planted out for seed ten years ago, and last summer it was flourishing amazingly ; in fact, most of the flowers depicted in our coloured plate were obtained from that bed, and we are indebted to Messrs. Dobbie and Co. for sending the collection of flowers to our artist. 311 HARDY CHINESE PRIMULAS (Continued from page 93.) P. Cockburniana (Hemsl.). — This member of the Candelabra section ^vas introduced in 1906 from Tatsienlu, Central Szechwan, by Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, and was col- lected by Mr. Wilson. Its brilliant orange scarlet flowers at once attracted the notice of the public. Unfortunately, it has not proved so satis- factory in cultivation as was desired, and many apparently have to cultivate it as a biennial. It is 7, a free seeder, and its short life in gardens is therefore not of so much consequence. In some places it is quite perennial, but not always under the same conditions. It is naturally a lover of moisture, yet some- times is perennial in dry, well-drained soil and even in clay. It has Primrose - like leaves and whorls of stalked flowers on scapes about a foot or more high. P. Cockburniana Hybrids. — Crossed with P. pulverulent a, P. Cockburniana has produced some beau- tiful hybrids. P. x Unique is a hand- some plant with cop- pery brown flowers. This, recrossed, has ^Hi^K ' ^1^^^ given P. X Excelsior, ^^|h^>^ , .«i_" T'*5 a deeper - coloured ^^B^^KK^f&L^^Wi'^ ^ but less hardy plant than Unique. STEPPING STONES [N P. X Lissadell Hybrid, which is the reverse cross to Unique, is a finer c'rnt than Unique, and is hardier and more deo;>ly coloured. On a damp soil I find these hardy and satisfactory. Culti- vation : Good rich loamy soil in half stm. P. cortusoides lichiangensis (G. Forrest). — This is now generally known as P. lichiangensis (G. Forrest). It is a good garden plant, easy to grow, even in the border, and quite a satisfactory subject. It resembles the valuable P. Veitchii, but is distinguished from that species by the foliage, which is not white beneath, being less hairy, and by the larger, more drooping flowers, which have also a larger eye. The anthers are yellow in P. Veitchii, but purple in P. lichiangensis. It was collected by Mr. Forrest in the Tali region, Yimnan, and introduced in igo8 by Messrs, Bees, Limited. Cultivation : Any good soil ; easily grown in half shade, P. deflexa (Duthie). — The plants of this section (Muscaroides) are generally of difficult cultivation in a wet climate, owing to the hairs on the leaves ; but P. deflexa appears to be the easiest to grow. It has rather erect-growing leaves, covered vrith downy hairs, and close spikes of narrow, lilac purple or bluish flowers, which, like the others of the section, are curved in the calyx and corolla so as to assume a drooping form. It is exceed- ingly fragrant. P, deflexa, which comes from THE ROCK GARDEN AT COPPED HALL. 108 THE GARDEN. [February 28. 1914, Western China, was raised from seeds sent by Mr. Wilson. It flowered in r9o6. Cultivation : Good garden soil with ample drainage ; shady situation. P. denticulata (Smith). — This, or an allied form, is described as from Mcngtsz in South- East Yunnan. As it is more general in the Himalayas, it will be referred to in my notes on the Himalayan Primulas. P. pseudo-denticulata (Pax) is earlier than the type from India. P. Forrestii (Balf. fils). — introduced from the Tali region of Yunnan in rgoS by Messrs. Bees from seeds sent by their collector, Mr. Forrest. This distinct Primula has been found difficult to cultivate. It has massive stems, large masses of evergreen leaves, and yellow, sweet-scented flowers. It does not do well with me in the open, but in some places thrives on dry rock or in a retaming wall. It belongs to the section Suffruticosa, of which there are few representa- tives in cultivation. P. Gagnepainii (Petitue). — This is synonymous with P. heucheri- foUa (Franch.) and resembles cortusa Matthiolii in its general appearance. It is very hardy and easily gro^vn. The drooping lilac purple flowers are carried on stems several inches high. This Primula was introduced under the name of P. Gagnepainii by Miss Willmot t , who received seeds from Mr. Wilson. Section Geranoides. Cul- tivation : Will grow in any soil and in any situation. P. Giraldiana (Pax) was intro- duced by Messrs. Bees in 1908 and sent out under the name of P. muscaroides. It belongs to the same section as P. deflexa, to which it has a strong resemblance ; but on a minute comparison marked differences emerge. While P. deflexa is sweetly scented, P. Giraldiana is scentless. In the former the foliage is downy and the stems covered with white hairs ; in the latter the leaves have fewer, though larger, hairs, and the stems are hairless. The very small bracts of P. Giraldiana; as well as its flowers, are purple. It was collected in Yunnan by Mr. Forrest. Cultivation : No doubt in some places this plant may prove perennial in the open, but with me it does not. 1 grow it in pots in a cold house SAXIFR.\ga in soil composed of two parts pulverised loam, one part leaf-soil, one part silver sand ; in half shade. John Macwatt. {To he continued.) distinct, for, instead of producing a spike, it sends up a raceme with spreading branches 2 incflics long, as depicted in the illustration. It is impera- tive that this plant should not suffer from damp, and for that reason it is best grown like S. Grise- bachii. either in pots or planted nut on a small cone of stones. ROSE-GROWING IN TOWN GARDENS. CLIMBERS FOR WALLS AND FENCES. The Roses best suited for growing against walls include most of the Noisettes, Hybrid Tea and Tea MEDIA, A LITILE-KNOWN SPECIES FROM THE PYRENEES A RARE SAXIFRAGA (S. MEDIA). There are certain members of the genus Saxifraga that are particularly difficult to cultivate. Saxi- fraga flnrulenta and S. Grisebachii are two species which readily occur to mind. In S. media we have another that is likely to give a good deal of trouble in order to cultivate it successfully. Wnen not in flower, this species closely resembles S. Grisebachii, possessing a similar compact rosette of leaves. In flower, however, it is quite Roses of climbing habit. For walls facing south, the Noisettes RSve d'Orand Mme. .\lfred Carriere, the Hybrid Teas Climbing .Mrs. W. J. Grant and Frangois Crousse, and Tea Rambler (Rosa multi- flora scandens) are among the best sorts for towns. Noisettes require to become well established before they will bloom satisfactorily, and little can be expected of them until the third 3'ear after planting. RSve d'Or is somewhat tender, and should be grown only in the most sheltered spots. Mme. .Alfred Carriftre, the best white climber, grows well, is sweetly scented, beautiful for decoration and quite hardy. Climbing Mrs. W. J. Grant is rather subject to mildew, but growers u-ith whom it succeeds will be more than amply repaid for their care and trouble. A light, rich soil suits it best, and when well established it should be kept going with liberal supplies of manure. The blooms are of a delightful shade of glowing rose pink, and are among the earliest to open and the last to go. Franfois Crousse also appears to prefer rather light soil, and needs a sunny wall to bring out the best of its colouring, which is a bright crimson. Large- flowered climbers of this shade are none too numerous, and are often asked for. Tea Rambler (coppery pink) is pretty and useful, and almost the only multiflora that is at home on a wall. With a westeriy aspect Mme. Alfred Carridre, W'illiam .•Ulen Richardson (Nois- ette) and Reine Olga de Wurtcm- burg will do well. The latter is a semi-double Rose, crimson in colour, with fine foliage. William Alien Richardson, orange yellow in the bud. fading almost to white in the expanded blooms, is sufficiently well known to need no description. Walls facing east will suit Mme. -Alfred Carrifere, Climbing Mrs. W. J. Grant, Gloire de Dijon (Tea), -Alister Stella Gray (Noisette), Climbing Caroline Testout (Hybrid Tea) and Conrad F. Meyer (rugosa). The last named is a fine, useful Rose of a silvery pink shade, especially desirable because it usually produces the first large, well-shaped bloorri out of doors ; but the plant is rather prone to mildew when placed against a wall. .Ahster Stella Gray, buff, with orange centre, is particularly good in the autumn. Very few Roses will do well on a wall facing north, and in town gardens, where other advantages are denied them, it seems rather like cruelty to plant them there. Faicit^ Perpetue, to which I referred in a previous article as a Rose for a bad spot, is a notable exception, and Bennett's Seedling may also be made to grow in such a position. Points to Remember. — At the foot of a wall or fence the soil is much drier than in the open border, and consequently climbers so placed will need careful mulching and hoeing, especially when first planted. The difficulty in getting: a plant to start satisfactorily may generally be traced to dryness at the root during the first season. In planting, all the roots should !*• fan shape, and should all point away from the wall. Pruning. — .All climbers for walls should be cut down the lirst season, so that only the strongest rods are left longer than a foot, and none more than 3 feet above the groiuid. -Afterwards it becomes a matter of thinning rather than pruning, but unripe and dead wood must always be cut away. When growths arc overcrowded, thinning: is best done in the autumn, the oldest shoots being selected for removal. Hybrid Tea and! Tea Roses may be primed b.ick slightly, btit RSve d'Or and other Noisettes should be left almost untouched. P. L. Goduaud. spread out "iiipplnucnl fo THE GARDEN, Erbninry z'itli, ior4. '^>ME NEW LONG-SPURRED COLUMBINES Hudson & Keanis, Ltd., Printers, London, S.E. February 28, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 109 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. IROSES FOR SMALL BEDS. /^ I > HE wild Bramble and the Dog Rose in the hedgerows look quite charming when gro\ving .in masses, really in an overcrowded state. The garden Rose crowded in small beds would not be as attractive, because it ftvould present a very untidy appearance, the •flowers would not be quite true to character, .and the wood would not mature properly, so 'that the cultivator would meet with difficulties .and much disappointment in future years. We jnust be content and wise enough to put in just .as many Roses as the small bed will contain ; ithen the plants will thrive. There is often a certain amount of shade in a -suburban garden. Well, many varieties of strong- rgrowing Hybrid Perpetuals will do nicely in such rpositions, especially the dark red and deep pink •ones, as the blooms do not fade so quickly as when the plants are grown in an open position fully ■exposed to the sun's rays. The strong-growing .Hybrid Teas may also be planted in partial shade. That grand old favourite Gloire de Dijon does uremarkably well there ; the tints in the petals are imuch deeper and richer. Ground may still be prepared and Roses planted. The soil must be deeply dug, the lower portion "well broken up at the time, and the top left in a trough state. It is not necessary to put in any imanure. The latter can be applied in the form .of a mulch after the Roses are planted. Standards .and dwarts may be grown in the same bed — one •standard in the centre of a small bed, and [three in a larger one. Such beds are full of HOW TO PRUNE DWARF .A.ND STANDARD ROSES. linterest to the cultivator when there is no • overcrowding. Fig. i shows how the cultivator .must prune a strong-gromng dwarf ; and Fig. 2 a young standard. It is too early to do the work yet, because, if the shoots are cut now, the buds that are left ■would quickly burst into growth. The young ishoots formed would be very susceptible to injury from cold winds and night frosts that are always experienced during March and the early part of April. If pruning is delayed for at least another three weeks, the lower buds will remain dormant, and in that condition will not be harmed by cold weather. HARDY BORDER FLOWERS. Untidy borders should not be tolerated in any garden. When one plant is allowed to grow into another, when old flower and leaf stems are left to decay on the plants, and when foreign matter is allowed to remain choldng the young shoots of clumps of plants, the result is very unsatisfactory. The border is not attractive, and it actually makes the whole garden look untidy. The new border must not be made by simply turning over the surface soil a few inches deep, and then putting in a few kinds of plants in a haphazard way. No ; this will not do at all. The cultivator must trench the soil and do every- thing in a deliberate manner with the firm intention of having a really beautiful border, as it will go such a long way towards ensuring a beautiful garden. Then it will be advisable to plan the border for the plants, which should be mostly herbaceous. Some hardy annuals will be useful for filling up vacant places later on. The tallest- growing of the herbaceous plants must have positions near the back of the border, those of medium height in the centre, and the dwarf ones at the front. Before planting, make a rough plan of the border on paper, marking the positions so as to have harmony of colour and a regular succession of blossom Irom early in the summer till late in the autum i. In the case of small borders, single specimens of many kinds of plants may be used ; but where the border is broad and proportionate in length, clumps containing three, five, or seven plants would have the best effect. A good background forms a suitable setting for such border plants. Where there is no neat shrubbery, a row or clumps of Sweet Peas would do nicely. Hedges, neatly kept, will do. Wooden fences should be clothed with suitable climbing plants. On a low fence, quick-growing climbers, planted 6 feet apart, would do well and soon cover it. In most mixed borders groups of spring-flowering bulbs, such as Daffodils, Tulips and Crocuses, are planted near the front, and these add con- siderably to the charm of the borders during the early months of the year. Unfortunately, when their flowers have departed, there is a more or less obvious gap, and this is where annual flowers are particularly useful. If seeds of such hardy kinds as Mignonette, Sweet Alyssum, Virginian Stock, Godetia, Clarkia, pot Marigold, Swan River Daisy, pink Mallow and Candytuft are sown between the bulbs at the end of March or early in April, the seedlings will be well advanced by the time the foliage of the bulbs is dead, and in the late summer and autumn will give a glorious display of flowers. If half-hardy kinds, such as Asters, Stocks, Nemesias and Zinnias are pre- ferred, these can be raised in a cool frame or greenhouse and planted out between the bulbs about the third week in May. One of the chief values of annuals is their suitability for filling temporary gaps during the summer and autumn months, and beginners \, .uld do well to utilise them more for this purpose. CHARMING CLIMBERS. In nearly every garden climbing plants can be used to very great advantage. A few arches are soon erected ; the more rustic-looking the better. Rough posts, too, will be found useful : and in the largest gardens, or in any affording the necessary space, pergolas would look very attrac- tive. Avoid the erection of structures that are too light to withstand strong winds. The bare structure may, at first, stand all right ; but when it is clothed with branches and leaves a greater strain is imposed, and it may be quickly destroyed, also the plants on it. There- fore be sure that the wood used is of sufficient strength. A pergola must be erected over a straight path, arches too may go there ; but the latter look well at the junction of paths and at almost any other point. Beside garden paths, dotted here and there, posts covered with climbers have a charming appearance. Below is shown a quite plain arch spanning the garden walk. It is well to fix the upright posts a few inches away from the edges of the paths to allow room for the branches of the climbers. Of course, we cannot exclude the lovely climbing Roses. Then there are the fragrant Honey- suckles, the noble Wistarias, suitable for the long ARCH SPANNING GARDEN PATH. pergolas, also the Vines, which possess such richly coloured leaves. Clematises are charming. Ceanothuses clothe posts beautifully, and, if novelties are desired, put in a few plants of Wilson Junior Blackberry and Japanese Wineberries. Both kinds fruit freely and form a contrast in the colour of the berries, and both will thrive i» gardens neajr towns. G. G. 110 THE GARDEN. [February 28, 1914- GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FO« SOUTHERN GARDENS. The Fruit-Houses. Early Permanent Vines.— Tf all has gone svell with Dccemher-started Vines, the bunches should now be readv for thinning, and this should be done with sreat 'care. CarefuUv avoid touching the b-inrhes with the hand, and d» not thin too hard at first. Stop the shoots at the second or third leaf beyond the bunch, and gradually work them down to the wires a little at a time. Damp the floor and vacant parts of the bed twice daily.^bu avoid steam. The temperature may be 70 at night, rising to 85° by day with sun-heat. Strawberries.— The early batch of plants will now have set their fruits, and should be placed near the glass in a warm forcing-house. Syrnige the toliage twice daiiv, and give frequent waterings with weak liquid manure. A shelf at the back of a Melon or Cucumber house will suit them well. Continua to introduce plants to gentle heat as required. The Plant-Houses. Gloriosa superba.— The roots, having been dormant lor some time, should now be potted up and placed in comfortable quarters. Loam and neat in equal parts, with a good quantity of rough silver sand will suit them. Cover the roots about two iiches, and if the soil is in good «ondition very litt' ■ water will be necessary until growth shows th-.ough the surface of the soil, but the atmosphere s'.iould be kept moist. {{Qges Plants in pots which were started early will aow be growing freely and shoNving the^ir 'lowers At this stage they may be given light i' cssings of guano, which is one of the most r'.-liable manures for this purpose. Overhead -v'-inging should be discontinued, or mildew may pn.ve troublesome. Ventilate carefully at the top of the house, and fumigate if green or black flv should make its appearance, Permanejit Rose niants in cool houses will now requure liberal supplies of liquid manure at the roots. Avoid cold draughts. The Flower Garden. yjolas If these plants have been wintered in cold pits 'the lights may be removed whenever the weather is favourable, so that the plants may be .rrown as stocky and short-jointed as possible^ Stir the soil between the plants, and remove all small weeds. Calceolarias.— The tops may now be pinched, and the young plants should either be potted up or transplanted m a cold pit in order to prevent them becoming drawn. Herbaceous Phloxes.— To grow these to perfec- tion it is necessary to trench the soil to a depth ot -> feet and give a good dressing of decayed manure. The position should be somewhat sheltered from the sun during the warmest part of the day or the colour of many of the best varieties will be impaired. In lifting and preparing the roots for planting, pull them to pieces with the hand, and plant pieces capable of producing three or our spikes each ; by this means better flowers will be produced than if larger clumps are used. Allow 2 feet between the plants, and if hot, dry weather sets in, mulch the bed with decayed manure and give plenty of water at the roots. ^ Climbers on Walls should be pruned and leeulated without delay. No hard-and-fast rule can be laid down as to the manner in which the different climbing plants should be pruned and trained The position in which they are growing has a great deal to do with this ; but in all cases overcrowding must be avoided. Roses of the Rambler type should be carefuUy thinned out, removing as much of the old wood as ran be spared and tying in the strong, young growths of last season's production. These Koses are not adapted for walls; but for pergolas or pillars where the air can pass freely among them they are well suited. Hardy Fruit. Mulberries, Medlars and Nuts.— The branches ,,f these should now be carefully thinned _so that pruning of these may be delayed until the catkins are formed. Pruning Young Trees.— The pruning of young trees is an important matter, and should be per- formed with great care, as the future of a tree largely depends on the way tliis work is performed during the early stages of its growth. The branches of a perfect tree should be furnished with fruiting spurs from top to base, and should be sufficiently thin for the sun to reach the centre. To attain this end, trees which were planted a year ago should be carefully thinned, leaving only sufficient branches coming directly from the stem, and these should now be shortened back according to their strength, and to a bud inclining outwards. The Kitchen Garden. Lettuce. — Yonng plants raised from seed in January should now be ready for planting in cold frames. The soil for this purpose must be light and rich, and within 18 inches of the glass. Allow a space of 6 inches between the plants each way, and when sufficiently advanced half the crop may be cut for immediate use, leaving every second plant to develop. Autumn-sown Lettuce should now be planted on a warm south border. Slugs will be their greatest enemy, but may be kept in check by frequent dustings of lime in the early morning. Peas. — T.ie early sown Peas will now require protection from rough wind. A few Spruce boughs should be placed along the rows for a few weeks. Let the stakes be placed in position as soon as possible. The early sowings in pots should be freely ventilated in a cold pit. Keep the plants near the glass, and do all that is possible to keep them stocky. Potatoes. — These may now be planted on a warm south border, where pri.itection from frost can be applied if necessary. The sets of second-early and maincrop varieties should be laid out thinly in a cool shed in order to promote the growth of sturdy shoots. A change of seed is advisable, especially if obtained from Ireland or Scotland. Royal'Gardens, Windsor. John Dun.n. FOR light and air may pass freely among them. Ren all suckers from the base of Nut trees but Remove the NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. The Hot-Bed. — For obvious reasons the raising of seed and the production of a few early vegetables must have the protection of a hot-bed. If this has not been done, no time should be lost in getting together the necessary quantity of manure. This should be turned several times to prevent it becommg heated, and if it becomes too dry, a little water may be sprinkled over it from time to time. During the iinal turning add a quantity of dry leaves, which, I think, help to maintain a steadier heat. For growing vegetables, about a foot of soil will be ample, Brassicas. — Most members of the Brassica family may now be sown out of doors. But it will not be wise to sow all the seed at once, especially in the case of Cauliflower, Cabbage and Brussels Sprouts, At the very least two sowuigs should be made. At the outset it will be wise to place a double net over the seed about two feet from the ground. This will not only act as a protection against birds, but I find it also acts as a protection for the young plants towards the end of the month. Leeks. — The main crop of Leeks may now be sown out of doors. Many make this sowing in cold frames, but I do not think this is at all necessary. My experience is that they do equally well on a warm border. It is, however, essential that the seed should be sown thinly; otherwise one never gets sturdy plants for transplanting. Carrots. — A small sowing of Early Horn Carrots may now be made on a south border. It will not be wise, however, to put in more than a few rows, because if these are not used in a young state they will most certainly run to seed. Celery. — Those who did not make a sowing last month may now put in a little seed of one of the dwarf varieties. In the majority of cases this sowing will be quite early enough. As pre- viously advised, see that the young plants do not receive a check, cither through lack of moisture at the roots or extreme fluctuations "■ •■•" temperature. Cucumbers. — For those who grow Cucumbers in c jUi frames, seeds may be sown any time during the coming week. They should be sown in small pots. In cold districts' it is good policy to pot them on, at least into 6-inch pots. By the time they are established in these pots they may be safely transferred to the frames. They will, of course, need a little protection on cold nights, and in tke earlier stages of growth little or no air should be admitted. The Flower Garden. Larkspur. — This lovely annual is becoming more popular each season, and little wonder, as, apart from its attractiveness as a bedding plant, it is especially effective for decorative purposes indoors. It has, however, a nasty habit of going oS mysteriously, even up to the time of flowering,. To get over this, many gardeners treat it as a hardy annaal, and sow' it where it is to remain. Per- sonally, I have always treated it as half-hardy,, and, with the exception of a few odd plants going oi¥, have been able to make a wonderfully effec- tive display with it. I usually give the ground a good dressing of lime before planting. Sow the seeds now and bring them on gently, as coddling in any shape would only be courting failure. When large enough, prick out the seedlings into frames and plant out about the' beginning of May, I find they do best if planted in a border by them- selves, or at least in large patches in a mixed, border. Mignonette. — This is such a common plant and its requirements so well known that one need say very little about it. Yet one hears numerous complaints about its fickleness, and many times I have been asked if I could account for its failure to germinate. Some years ago I saw a long: border sown entirely with Mignonette and only a few plants appeared, whereas the following season almost every seed grew, which would suggest that there was something wrong with the prepara- tion of the seed-bed. Before sowing see that the ground is made very firm (this I consider essential), and thin out the plants when quite small. If this is not attended to, the plants will last only a short time in bloom. Pillar Roses. — No time should be lost in com- pleting the work of tying up pillar Roses and' other climbing plants, 'as after this date much damage may be done to the young shoots, which will now be very prominent. the Plants Under Glass. Hydrangeas. — These indispensable greenhouse plants can he had in bloom over a very long period of the year. Cuttings may be rooted now, and again in the autumn. Those struck now will produce immense heads by September, while those rooted in the autumn will flower the following spring and summer. Older plants may now be brought from their winter quarters and pruned. They will be found to make fine specimens for the conservatory. Salvia splendens.— Old plants of this useful winter-flowering Salvia should now be looked over, partly cut back, and placed in a warm vinery to produce cuttings. Like all other Salvias, this variety is a rapid grower, and cuttings put in at the end of this month will make handsome plants towards the end of September, The Hardy Fruit Garden. Strawberries.— Where planting was not done in the autumn, the present will be a suitable time to get this done, although it will not be wise to delay this work much longer. Those planted now should have the flowers pinched off as they appear, which will assist the plant to build up the crown for fruiting the following season. Planting and Pruning.— The planting and pruning ol all hardv fruit, which, through various, causes, could not be done earlier, should now be completed. Fruits Under Glass. Melons.— This is a crop that must he regulated according to requirements, .At this season Melons will take fourteen to fifteen weeks from the sowing of the seed until the fruit is ripe. Midsummer crops will take twelve to thirteen weeks. It will always be wise to allow a little longer in each case, as one never gets good flavour unless the house is well ventilated as the fruits approach the ripening stage, John Highgate. (Head-gardener to the Marquis ol Lmlithgow,) Hopetoun Gardens, South Quccnstcrry, N.B. February 28, 1914.] THE GARDEN. Ill THE USE OF LIME IN THE GARDEN. b Cis 'present to a greater or less extent in all soils excepting peat and the poorer sands. Its presence is essential to the maintenance of fertility, as it has many important duties to perform, both in the soil and in the body of the plant itself. Yet, strictly speaking, it is not a food — 'that is, it is not actually required in the intimate chemical structure of the living parts of the plant. Nevertheless, it contributes more than anything else to the proper nutrition and general health of our crops. So far as its beneficial actions in the soil are concerned, in the first place its presence improves the physical or mechanical condition of both light and heavy soils. It binds sands and improves the texture of stiff clays. The great fault of a clay is its extreme closeness of texture ; the individual grains are so minute and they are packed so closely together that little space is left for air or for the downward movement of water. The presence of lime causes these grains to coagulate into little groups or masses, and so opens the soil and thus materially improves i ts texture. Certain obvious results follow : The movement of water through the soil is rendered easier and more rapid, the soil dries quicker in the spring, and this favours earlier warmth and, as a result, earlier crops. The consolidation following the application of lime to light soils increases their water-holding power, an important factor during a dry growing season. In the second place, lime exercises important chemical activities in the soil. It is a well-known fact that lime readily neutralises acids. Lime- water added to sour milk will correct its acidity, and chalk added to vinegar will act in the same way and produce the same kind of result. Similarly, quicklime or ground limestone mixed with a sour soil will neutralise its acidity and render it sweet and wholesome to the roots. The application of lime in some form or other is the only practical method open to a gardener to correct sourness in the soil. An acid soil is very distasteful to the roots of the majority of cultivated crops, and, furthermore, it interferes with the activities of useful soil bacteria. On the other hand, such root diseases as club-root are encouraged by acidity of the soil. The particular form of fungus that induces this disease can only thrive and multiplv in a soil which is acid in its reaction ; therefore a generous application of lime to such a soil is the only real practical method of com- bating this troublesome form of disease. It is because of this peculiarity that cruciferous crops on calcareous soils are never affected with c'.ub- root. In tiiis connection it ought to be remem- bered that the use of certain artificial manures — superphosphate of lime and sulphate of ammonia especially — tends to destroy the carbonate of lime present in the soil, and thus by their con- tinued use bring about an undesirable acidity unless corrected by the occasional application of fresh supplies of lime. It is not only in con- nection with the question of acidity that the chemical activities of lime favour the gardener's work. Lime has a direct influence upon the liberation of plant food that otherwise might remain locked up in an insoluble state. This is especially true with respect to phosphorus and potash, two of the three most valuable constituents of the food of garden crops. By the action of lime the insoluble salts of these essential elements are gradually brought into solution in soil water. It is, however, in its third relationship that lime exercises such a potent influence upon the fertility of a soil, namely, in its relation to the biological activities of the soil. .Apart from the direct application of such " artificial " nitrogenous manure as nitrate of soda, all the nitrogenous food of crops is prepared for the roots through the agency of living bacteria. The chief source of supply is the organic matter or humus present in all garden soils. Dead roots, fallen leaves, ordinary stable manure, &c., all contribute to the soil's store of humus. But before any such material can be utilised as food by crops, it must be broken down or fermented by vast hordes of putrefactive or decay bacteria. The most impor- tant end product of decay is ammonia, because it contains the valuable nitrogen in its chemical molecule. But relatively few plants appear to be able to make use of an ammonium salt ; a further transformation, therefore, must take place before it is available. It is at this point that lime becomes so essential a constituent of the soil. All well-drained, cultivated soils support a vast population of bacteria concerned in nitrifying ammonia. In point of fact, there are two definite and distinct races, one engaged in oxidising ammonia into nitrous acid, and the other con- tinuing the work by oxidising the nitrous into nitric acid. The function of the lime is to neutralise the acid immediately it is formed, so that nitrate of lime accumulates as a direct result. This nitrate of lime is the chief source of the nitrogenous food of all garden plants. The progress of nitrifi- cation thus depends upon a sufficiency of lime being present in the soil. It follows, therefore, that, if the supply runs out, the nitrification stops, as the nitrifying bacteria are checked in their growth if the acid products of their activity are not immediately neutralised. Nitrification is at its best when the soil is fairly moist and warm, when it is well aerated, and when it contains a sufficiency of lime. The absence of any one of these factors will check nitrification. The particular point I am anxious to drive home in this connection is this : That the presence of lime in the soil encourages the activities of all those races of soil bacteria that are concerned in the preparation of nitrogenous food for culti- vated crops. I am convinced that there are a large number of gardens the soils of which are heavily charged with rich stores of humus, but which, owing to the lack of lime, are unable to unload their treasures. In such cases it is lime, not additional manure, that is urgently required. The soil is fat, sluggish and inert, whereas it ought to be alive, buoyant and active, having its food reserves rapidly transformed into nitrates for the nutrition of our crops. Lime, therefore, is the most active agent in the transport service of the plant. It carries valuable food up to the absorbing root-hairs ; but, comparatively speaking, it rarely enters the plant itself. Supposing it presents itself in the form of a nitrate. In the act of absorption the nitrate is decomposed, the nitric acid is absorbed by the living root, while the lime is left behind. The now freed lime instantly makes a fresh combination with the carbonic acid given off by the breathing root, and thus again in the form of a carbonate it is ready to repeat its part in the work of nitrogen transportation. A certain percentage of lime, however, enters the plant, as it is needful in the performance of certain duties in the li\ing tissues of the plant. One such duty only need here be mentioned. During the process of growth certain acids are formed, which, if allowed to accumulate, would interfere with the health of the tissues. These acids are neutralised by lime and thrown out of solution in the sap in the form of crystals. Some plants are able to excrete their excess of lime. This is well demonstrated in the case of " crustaceous " Saxifrages, where the wliite incrustations that appear along the margins of the leaves represent compounds of lime carried out in exuditions of sap which, on evaporation, leave the solid lime salts behind. As is well known, certain plants dislike lime, and their spontaneous appearance in a soil indicate the absence of lime in that soil. The common Dock Sorrel (Rumex acetosella), the Foxglove and Erica cinerea are examples of such plants, and gardeners are familiar with many others which under cultivation must be kept free from lime ; but these cases do not in any way affect the general question. It is worth noting, however, that Principal Wright found by direct experiment in the West of Scotland that the application of lime to the soil had a distinctly bad effect upon the yield of Potatoes, and he recommends that Potatoes should not be planted in ground recently treated with lime. D. Houston. Royal College of Science for Ireland. ACETYLENE GAS GENERATOR REFUSE Foe G.1RDEN Crops. DURING the last few weeks a great I many readers have written for I information respecting the use of ' acety.'ene gas refuse, and we there- fore reprint the following, which appeared in The Garden for March, 1909. "The question of the usefulness or otherwise in gardens of the refuse from tiie acetylene generator plants is very frequently raised, ' May this refuse be placed upon the land without injury to crops and with beneficial effect upon the soil ? ' is mostly asked. Calcium carbide is made by causing lime and carbon to combine together in an electric furnace, so tha'. a compound having the chemical formula CaCj is formed. When water is brought into contact with this substance, certain chemical reactions immediately take place, with the result that acetylene gas is generated and a white substance remains mixed and partly dissolved in water. This is shown by the following chemical equation ; CaCa + 2 H2O = C2H2 -I- Ca{OH)2 (Calcium carbide) (water) (acetylene) (slaked lime) The white substance is slaked lime, and if it were not for the presence of some impurities, derived mostly from the form of carbon used in the manufacture of the carbide (that have, of course, been ignored in the equation), this slaked lime would not differ in the least from that obtained when fresh burnt lime is slaked with water. " On account of the presence of some impurities in the carbide, however, the refuse is likely to contain certain compounds of sulphur and lime (sulphides), and occasionally some phosphide of lime, a compound of phosphorus and lime. Both of these compounds are injurious to plant-life, but the latter is not likely to be present in sufficient quantities to do any appreciable damage, and the former soon alter in composition in the soil and become innocuous. Thus the refuse may be used with advantage upon soils. 112 THE GARDEN. [February 28, 11)14. though it should first be exposed to the action ot the air for a time before it is allowed to come in contact with roots. It may be spread on the soil in the autumn at the rate of about half a bushel to the square rod, as evenly as possible, and allowed to lie for a time before it is forked in. Used in this way it will have the same bene- ficial effects upon the soil as a dressing of slaked lime applied in the same way, counteracting sourness of the soil and mitigating the evils arising therefrom, and, in the case of clay soils, causing the minute particles of clay to coagulate and therefore making the pores in the soil larger and the soil itself easier to work, more open to the air and, as a result, more easily warmed by the sun in the spring. Scientist." IS THE DAFFODIL A FLORIST'S FLOWERP IN his interesting discussion as to whether the Daffodil ought or ought not to be con- sidered a " florist's flower " (The Garden of January 31 and February 7), Mr. Jacob asks me a number of questions which, with your permission, I shall do my best to answer. Why was Mr. Jacob asked to judge the Daffodils at Barnstaple, and not Tom, Dick or Harry ? This question is so easy as to be almost difficult. Why. because Mr. Jacob is Mr. Jacob, and not any random individual you may chance to pick up. Tom, Dick and Harry may be estimable persons in their way, and may even know a Daffodil from a Dandelion when they see it. I have nothing against Tom, Dick or Harry, except that none of the three happens to be Mr. Jacob, and that, when I have Daffodils to show, I prefer to submit them to someone whose knowledge of the flower is above suspicion ; someone who has seen all that there is to see in the way of Daffodils, who has grown them and shown them (peradventure even measured them with a foot rule) and who has written about them with enthusiasm and distinc- tion. Mr. Jacob happens to fill the bill. Again : Should I prefer the head-gardener of the nearest big place to judge my Daffodils to, say, Mr. P. D. Williams ? I hesitate to say that there is any judge in the wide world I should prefer to Mr. P. D. Williams ; but as concerns the head- gardener in question, I should have to know more about him before I suggested that he was not " the man for Galway." I suppose, as a rule, head- gardeners have so many claims on their attention as hardly to allow of their becoming specialists in a particular flower. My acquaintance with head- gardeners is not extensive, but I know (or knew) of one at least to whose judgment I should not hesitate to submit my Daffodils. The broadside of queries with which Mr. Jacob opens the second instalment of his article I can best answer by conceding the necessity for shows, which I do very readily ; also the necessity for recognising "points," if by "points" Mr. Jacob means certain desirable qualities which we all recognise when we see them. But such points must be manifestly desirable, and not arbitrarily selected by a junta of florists merely because the qualities in question are difficult to secure. If judges bar certain colours, combinations of colours, rays, stripes, pencUlings, blotches and what not, it must be because these are thought to be intrinsically ugly and undesirable, and not because they run counter to certain florist conventions. Why, for instance, may the edge of a Carnation petal not be fringed ? A fringed petal is a charm- ing feature in a Begonia, Pink or Poppy. But the florist rules it out as improper in the Carnation. .Again, why, to have a chance with the judge, must an Auricula have a thrum eye ? There is nothing disgraceful or inherently ugly in a pin eye. It is a thing of Nature's designing for a special purpose of her own ; and, in my experience of the Primula tribe, she perpetrates a pin eye quite as often as she achieves a thrum. I myself do not admue pin eyes ; but that is because I have been badly brought up (am, in fact, a florist in disguise), and proves nothing. I daresay there are people who prefer the pin eye to the thrum, and, if so, how must these inoffensive amateurs wince at the indignity put upon their taste by the florist ! Coming back, then, to the Daffodil, there are accidental features of the flower which please one and displease another. We may prefer a red eye, or an eye of another colour ; a perianth segment like the ace of spades or one of another shape ; a flower that looks up or a flower that looks down, or a flower that looks straight ahead. These are unessential points on which the best judges may agree to differ. On the other hand, there are certain things we all desire in the flower — size, substance, purity and delicacy (or depth) of colour, massiveness, symmetry, proportion, and so on, to all of which qualities a competent judge will surely give their full value, without any Glenny at his elbow. Finally, may I be permitted to suggest to Mr. Jacob the reason why he is so equally divided between "Yes" and "No"? It is, I think, because he has not determined for himself what exactly he means by the word " florist." Some- times he has in his mind the florist of the old school, now almost, if not quite, extinct, who tolerated only one or two types of a flower (the Tulip, for instance), and judged them by rigorous and some- times by arbitrary standards. Sometimes the " florist " of Mr. Jacob's vocabulary means exhibitor, sometimes hybridiser, and sometimes little more than the skilful grower. I myself am a florist because I prefer maximus to Santa Maria ; Mr. Farrer is a florist because he approves of hybrid Saxifrages ; John Heal was a florist because he created a new race of Begonias. No doubt, in various senses such as these we are all florists. But how many of us are florists in the sense in which Glenny was a florist ? However, when all is said, I am glad to believe that any differences between Mr. Jacob and myself are of the purely academic kind. As regards the essential points of Daffodils and Daffodil culture, I do not remember any on which I do not agree with your distinguished contributor. Let him not even think that I under- value the Spanish loveliness of Santa Maria. But, then, she is so " uncertain, cry, and hard to please " ! Somerset. EDITORIAL NOTICES. Every department, of horticulture is repreacnied in The Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send, in gueatlons relatinff to matters upon irhich thry wish expert advice. The Editor velcomos photixji-aphs. articles and notes, but he will not he ,■/■!< jtonsih/i' fur their safe return. All reasonable rare, hoiwrrr. iviU hr lukfu, and u'hrrc stamps are cndoscdjir inll f)idravviirlo n-(iirn non-iu.reptcd ronirihiifiorts. As rcijiinix pli'tfiiiii-a)ihs, if /mi/nienl is dcsiird. tlic Etlilo/ asks that the prirr iwipiirrd for rrpradurt ion be phunhj stated It muat be dislimihi loidnstiuKl thai onhi the artnal photo- grapher or ij'i'ncr t,j the ropi/rii/hl irill be trealeil /rith. The Editor ui/i >itit. be responsible fur (he return of artistic or literary contribiilions ivhii-h hr may not be able to ns,-. mid the receipt of a proof ;i}u.-uKu'i'^t with your Lily pond by introducing' >oii amonu the intones. Here and there the soil should he brous:ht within from '<', inchcp to 6 inches; of the surface of the water to actonimc- datc such plants as succeud best where the water is shallow. \i\ the deeper water you may plant the Kloweriim Rush (Itutomus umbellatus), double-flowered Arrowhead (Sagit taria variabilis (lore pleno), variegated Myrlle Grass (Acorus Calamus varieL'atus). nsirrow-leaved Heed Mace (Typha angusti folia) and lUchardia africana. Where the wat'T is shallower, Iris sibirica, I. ia?vitiata, I. Pseud- acorus, Caltlia i>alustris tlore pleno, C. polypetala. Calla palustris and the Bop Bean (Menyanthes trLfoliata) may he grown. The plants should be procured and planted as soon as possible. WATER LILIES IN GARDEN PONDS (Colonel IF.).— ThiT)' is II.) reason why Water Lilies should not thrive excellently in your pond^. The best way to establish them would be to drain tlie water away and make mounds of good loamy soil, kept in position by whole turves and liricks, on which to plant the Water Lilies. As a rule, the top of such mounds should be from H feet to 2 feet below the surface of the water ; a few inches either way. however, makes little dilference. Plantinc -should take place at once ; in fact, it is already rathi'r late. The following are really good kind:^ : Nymphiea ;ilad~toueana, white ; N. William Falconer, red ; X, ruberosa Ilavesccns, yellow ; N. Marliacea carnea, pink : N. robinsoniana, red ; and N. alba candidissima. white. We suggest that tins number will be sufficient for your requirements, as they soon form large plants. THE GREENHOUSE. LILY OF THE VALLEY FLOWERING WITHOUT LEAVES (y. /*.).— The (ierman-grown crowns of the Lily of the Vallev that have been forced hard to get them in flower early will throw up their blossoms without showing any foliage. Owing to this, retarded crowns are usually t-mployed for very early flowering, as they produce leaves as well as flowers. As the ."reason advances, the German crowns will push up the leaves and flowers together. FERNS FOR CONSERVATORY {E. S. i.).— Any ot the following Ferns will -nil your requirements : Adiantum aethiopicum, A. Caplllus-\riieris, A. decorum, Asplenium Inilbiferum, A. (.'oleusoi, Bleclmum Occident alr^, C'yr- tomium faleatum, Davallia canariense, Lastrea aristata variegata, Nephrodiura molle corymbiferura, Onyehium japonicum, Osmunda palustris, Poly podium aureum, Pteris cretica, P. c. aibolineata, P. c. cristata, P. c. major, P. c. nobilis, P. internata, P. longifoUa. P. 1. Mariesli, P. nivalis, P. seaberula, P. serrulata, P. s. cristata, P. s. gracilis, V. Summersii, P. Wimsettii and Woodwardia orieutalis. DIPLACUS GLUTINOSUS {Atherstone). — Generally speaking, Dlplacus glutinosus should be given much tlie same treatment as a Fuchsia, except that it should not be kept so dry during the winter. It is best propagated by cuttings of the young growing shoots, taken in tlie spring when they are about a couple of inches in length. Inserted into pots of sandy soil, and placed in a closi; propagating-case til! rooted, which will not take long. A compost" made up of loam, leaf-mould and sand will suit it well. As soon as your cuttings are rooted, they should be potted into small pots, giving them a warm situation in the greenhouse to encourage groirth, and shifting them on into larger pots when required. They will flower well in pots from (> inches to 8 inches in diameter. TREES AND SHRUBS. BUDDLEIA COLVILLEI (E. S. i.).— This is of rapid uTowth, but us a rule it llowers only when it has attained a fair size. As your plant is in such good condition, we sliouhl not ad\'ise you to jirune it at all. It is altogether more tree-like in stature than B. vcitcliiana. COTONEASTER FOR NAME AND TREATMENT iJaponica), — iiic specimen sent for identiflcation is t'otoneaster micropliylla, a native of the Himalaya. It may be propagated by seeds sown at once in sandy soil in a warm greenhouse or frame; or cuttings of young shoots, 3 inches to 4 inches long, may be taken in July and inserted in pots of sandy soil, or in a bed of sandy soil, in a close frame. A good compost for cuttings is made up of two parts loam, one part leaf-mould or peat. and niie part silver sanrange Boven. — Joseph Jacob. March 7, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 115 Crocus Sieberi in Essex and Scotland. — I was rather surprised to see that Crocus Sieberi was no further forward in an Essex garden the other day than with me in the south-east of Kirkcudbrightshire. In ordinary seasons there should be from a week to a fortnight's difference between the two. C. Sieberi is one of the best of the early Crocus species, and ought to be much more cultivated for its purple flowers. It is now very cheap, and should be planted in quantity. — S. Arnott, Maxwelltown, Kirhcudbrighlshire. Canker in Fruit Trees. — 1 quite agree with " E. M.," page 78, issue February 14, in his remarks on the cause of canker in fruit trees. I have cured very bad cases of canker, mainly by dealing with the roots. I will only refer to one case now. A half-standard of Cox's Orange Pippin was very badly cankered. I was asked to try to cure it. We took out a trench, cut off the main roots permeating the cold, clayey subsoil, and burrowed well under the tree ;. then filled the trench with lighter loam and plenty of grit. The canker was so bad at the junction of the head branches with the main stem that one could see through the holes. All the cankered part was cut away and the woimds dressed with undiluted Fir tree oil. The stems healed, the bark grew healthily and covered the holes. The tree bore a heavy crop of handsome fruits the following year, and did not suffer from canker afterwards. — G. G. A most interesting article, of great value to all fruit-growers, appeared on page 56, in the issue for January 31. Having very much of this canker to deal with, I can only add that I find Stockholm tar the best for healing the canker wounds after cutting out the disease. The canker is very far-reaching, as in many instances, when cutting off the diseased shoot, I have to make a still further cut, as the canker is so plainly seen in the wood when cut. As a wet season develops the spread of the disease, and knowing that on our silty soil the roots run down, I have done much root-pruning to advantage. I might here say that I find our underground soil, or, rather, silt, in a wet year, excessively wet, almost a running sand — poor indeed for top fruits — yet we do fairly well by feeding with basic slag, &c., avoiding stable manure. There is not the least doubt the free use of the latter does encourage the free wood growth, which, being difficult to ripen, is a ready prey to canker. — Stephen Castle. — — I have read with interest the remarks by " Scientist " and " E. M." on this subject. " Scientist " points out the danger of subject- ing the trees to attacks by the breaking of the bark through carelessness in gathering fruit, pruning and other work. But from experi- ence in this particular place the larger trees seem to fare best. Small pjnramids and young trees that one can gather fruit from and prune without damaging are attacked much more severely. If I were to cut out every bit of canker or diseased patches, certainly I should have many useless stocks, whatever may be thought of a cankered tree. It would cause me to begin afresh every year. I prefer to check if possible, and help Nature to heal, rather than do too much cutting and removing. I quite endorse the remarks about being careful to keep the bark sound, and one cannot be too careful against insect attacks. A few years ago a case came under my notice that is, perhaps, worthy of quoting. A cottager had a standard Apple tree badly cankered about four feet from the ground. After removing thoroughly the diseased bark and decayed wood, he applied Stockholm tar, and then placed a bandage around to assist protection. Whatever may be the experience of applying tar as a remedy, that particular tree to-day is healthy and fruitful. I have Ribston Pippin and Cox's Orange Pippin cankered slightly, while Lord Suffield, Reinette du Canada and Belle de Pontoise are almost killed. With regard to " E. M.'s " note, the soil here corresponds exactly ; but I notice that certain varieties canker worse on certain stocks. Longfield (Canadian), a never-failing cropper, cankers worse on the free stock than on the Paradise stock. Baldwin seems useless on any stock in this neighbourhood. North Star on the free stock does fairly well ; on the Paradise stock it is almost worthless. — J. J. G., Pemance. Permit me to record my experience and conclusions re canker in the Apple tree. " Scientist " (page 56, issue January 31) and " E. M." (page 78, issue February 14) have each, from different stand- points, diagnosed the cause, and suggested the cure for this common disease. While accepting in the main " Scientist's " theory, I am disposed, from my own experience, observation and reading, to say that " E. M." is on the true lines as to the origin of this mischievous pest. My know- ledge of the disease points to the conclusion that soil has a very considerable influence in inducing canker. The majority of practical gardeners, while always grateful to scientists for their research and discoveries, have to be content to know and act according to mere elementary principles. Those principles are discovered in practice. " E. M." has noticed that certain causes produce certain effects. Reasoning from effect to cause, he con- cludes that a water-logged clay soil is apparently a predisposing cause of canker. I wish to state that it is my opinion also. Whatever may be true as to " Scientist's " theory of canker, its cause and cure, it seems to me that anything in the constitu- tion or condition of the soil which tends to lower the vitality of a tree will make it more liable to develop canker. I have charge of a garden, closely surrounded by trees on the east, south and west. The soil is a stiff heavy clay, resting on an undrained subsoil of blue clay. In certain parts of this garden, no matter what variety of Apple I have planted, it eventually suc- cumbed to the disease in question. As the healthy, vigorous person is found, as a rule, to be proof against tubercular troubles, so the robust, healthy tree is as a rule immune from canker. The tendency to tubercular affections may be mainly hereditary, but I am persuaded that the tendency to canker is to be found chiefly in root conditions. As the mere presence of fat is not evidence of robust health in the human being, so the fact of gross wood is not evidence of vigour in the case of fruit trees. Too much growth is, to the experienced eye, in some varieties of Apples a sure sign of a deficiency, and not of an excess of health. The lesson seems to be to make the root conditions right, if it can be done ; but if it cannot be done — well, expect canker. — George JonxsTON. Ashfield Lodge, Cootehill. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. March 9. — United Horticultural Benefit and Provident Society's Committee Meeting. March 10. — Ro5'al Horticultural Society's Bulb Show (two days). March 12. — Manchester and North of England Orchid Society's Meeting. March 13. — Beckenham Horticultural Society's Meeting. DAFFODIL NOTES. The New Poetaz. — It may be news to some readers to know that there exists alongside of the now well-known Poetaz of van der Schoot (Alsace, Elvira, Aspasia, Jaune k Merveille, Irene and Sunset, to name the six I think the best) another set, raised for the most part, if not entirely, in the village of Limmen by one Albert Vis, a sort of bulb recluse, at whose death a few years since they passed into different hands. I believe the exact knowledge of the cross from which he got his hybrids died with him, but it is said to have been a Poet fertilised with pollen of some of the Tazettas. This, it will be remembered, is the origin of what I must call, in contradistinction to these, the older Poetaz. If my facts are correct, it then becomes a matter of peculiar interest to raisers to know that the newer ones are of quite a different type in both habit and inflorescence, featuring as they do in stem, in height, in truss, in scent, and in individual flowers the Tazetta parent in a greater degree than those raised by van der Schoot at Hillegom. 1 have summered and wintered four of them for three years, so I feel I am in a position to pronounce judgment upon them. My verdict is that they are excellent as pot plants ; and inasmuch as there are delightful combinations of colour to be found among them which are wanting in the older ones, I fancy they have a great future before them. Distinction, a fine, large-flowered variety with a pale red cup and soft yellow, undulating perianth, with a fair number of blooms to a truss ; and Albert Vis, which has a big rich orange eye in the centre of a well-proportioned pure white perianth, and with a smaller quota of flowers to a stem than is fotmd in the above-mentioned Distinction, were both to be found in some retail lists last autunm, so that I hope someone who has bought them will give us a note in The Garden as to his experience with them. I have also grown Orange Blossom and Orange Cup for the same number of years as the preceding. The former is a long-stalked Albert Vis, but in other respects very similar. The latter is on the lines of Distinction, but the cup has a real red edge, which is doubled, puckered and pleated in a way that at the moment I cannot recall in any other Narcissus or Daffodil. Thanks to the kindness and courtesy of Messrs. M. van Waveren and Sons, I have been able to increase my collection this spring, and I am now busy making the acquaintance of some of the others of this new race. Of these I will write in my next notes, when all the different varieties have flowered. Visitors to the " Midland " last year will remember a collection of them from Mr. H. Prins of Lisse, but they were so badly set up and so out of condition that they did not do themselves justice. Moreover, they had been grown in the open, I expect, and they are not at their best then. Daffodils in New Zealand. — Of course, one has known what a voracious appetite these two islands have had for years for new varieties, and that lately the pangs of hunger have been partly assuaged by home-grown food ; but since the publication of the Daffodil Year Book I have become aware that I under-estimated both the one and the other. I am hoping to include two or three articles upon what is going on " down there " in the ign edition. The following extract from an article in one of the New Zealand papers by a very keen and successful amateur, Mrs. Maclean of Oamaru, who visited three of the chief shows last spring 116 THE Gx\RDEN. [March 7, 1Q14. (that is, last September and October), wUl be ni interest, and, I hope, will not unduly depress ray •' Sic transit gloria mundi " friend at Rye. .Aiter dealing in detail with each show, she thus ends : " Comparing the three shows, there is not the slightest doubt but Oamaru leads so far as excellence of cultivation is concerned. Naturally, a much larger number of the latest and most expensive varieties are shown in Dunedin and Christchurch, and these, of course, take the eye ; but where the same variety is groivn and shown at each show the Oamaru flower is the best, and any exhibitor who can secure honours at Oamaru need not have any fear of competing with every prospect of success at either of the other shows. Locally, the season seems to have suited Harris and incomparabilises with red in the cup, as was evidenced by the many flowers of these divisions which were exhibited here (Oamaru) in perfect condition. New Zealand seedlings compare more than favourably with imported flowers so far as size is concerned, and when colour and form of took place fiftj'-eight years ago, I feel it is unlikely that anvone is li\ang who can enlighten us. Daffodils from Sweden. — Has anyone in England done what I have done this last month — had Daffodils in their greenhouse that had been grown last year in Sweden ? Hearing that a philan- thropic lady there — the Lady Sigrid Stjernsward — had started a Daffodil farm at Widtskofle in Scania some four or five years since, I wrote for some bulbs, and before long a couple of packages arrived by parcel post, which contained samples of some of the better-known varieties in commerce. Part I potted up and grew them alongside of my others ; part I planted in the garden. All of the former have now bloomed, and they have been carefully compared with the same varieties from other sources. Mrs. Langtry, Barri conspicuus and princeps were decidedly weak in growth and bore few flowers ; whereas Empress, Sir Watkin, ornatus. Golden Spur and Queen Bess were all very good, and quite up to either English or Dutch grown bulbs ; in fact, in the A PAX OF SAXIFRAGA BURSERIANA WITH OVER THREE HUNDRED BLOOMS. an equal standard are produced here, there will not be any doubt as to which are the better flowers, but at present the home-grown ones are ahead in these qualities, and, after all, perfect form and colour are superior to size." A Prehistoric Exhibit. — From March, 1851, to March, 1859, there existed an influential society called " The National Floricultural Society." Quoting from the "Address" in Vol. L, Part 1., it was formed to supply the want of a " tribunal to test new Florists' flowers and hybrids." On looking over its Transactions, I found, under the date of April 24, 1856, this entry : ■• The following were the subjects of exhibition : " Azalea from Mr. E. A. Hamp. " Auriculas from Mr. C. Turner. " Narcissi from Mr. Leeds," &c. Unfortunately for us, these seedlings received no award, or otherwise we would have had their names and descriptions, and as this exhibition case of Queen Bess, superior. Fi\'e bulbs bore ten fine blooms — better I have never seen. All the above flowered at the same time as Dutch- grown bulbs, Joseph Jacob. A MAGNIFICENT PLANT OF SAXIFRAGA BURSERIANA. A GOOD deal of interest was centred around a remarkably well-grown pan of Saxifraga burseriana which gained a cultural commendation at the last meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society. Over three hundred blooms were crowded together in a profuse mass, almost covering up the dense rosettes of foliage. It was shown and grown by Mr. F. Lloyd of Croydon, who for some .years has grown alpine plants, notably Saxifrages, with marked success. The magnificent specimen which we illustrate above reflected great credit upon the cultivator, and well deserved the cultural commendation bestowed upon it. SEASONABLE WORK AMONG THE ROSES. IT is not too late to plant Roses if a little extra care is taken. I have often had even better results from spring planting than when done during the midwinter months. One of the chief points is to have everything ready, and so avoid any un- necessary exposure of the roots, which, in many cases, will be more or less active and easily aft'ected by a drying wind or sun. Pruning will be dealt with fully in a week or two, but I may say it is better in all cases to prune newly planted Roses down close, and, this being the case, you will have little, if any, wood exposed to drying" influences, which will be a great help to the more uniform advance of both roots and top growth. Avoid getting upon freshlymoved groundifitiswet. Use a few boards if it must be done, but it is far better to delay the work for a few days. .As a further help in not treading until the soil has become dry and more settled, I would prune before planting in spring. .\t the same time, the soil should bi- fairly firm around the roots and base of the plants. Should you be planting standards, do not fail to afford some efficient support at once. They must have it the first year, and it is a pitv to allow them to sway at all, which cannot but do harm to and strain the newly forming roots. As one looks over his Roses at this pruning-time a few blanks will prob- ably be found in the beds and borders^ Too often one does not take enough care in replacing these. Let a better preparation be made by moving more soil and making a slightly larger hole. The slight injury to its neighbour's roots will not matter, and it will be a better start for the new-comer. When pruning pegged-down Roses, do not miss the opportmiity to feed by mulching and top cultivation of the soil before laying the young wood down again. You will not have such a good chance again during the whole season. Mulching generally may be done after pruning, and will still be in ample time to feed the roots at the period thev most need it. A properly mulched Rose bed or border in which the trees have been pruned has a pleasing and promising look, while it needs no more attention for a considerable time. I may say that Roses are by no means so particular as many other subjects about the class of manure they receive, but the best and its application has been frequently treated of in these pages. I only hint that now is a most seasonable time to use this. Under glass our plants should be in full growth,, and will need free waterings of weak liquid manures. I am firmly convinced that many checks to growth and other partial failures are caused by the use of overstrong liquids. It is far better to spread the same amount of stimulant over double the number of applications than run the risk of injury to the tips of healthy growing roots. But it is one of the most common errors. Simply because thi- plant is doing well it does not want a strong ditsi- of liquid manure to maintain its vigour ; murli better feed steadily and more often. March 7, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 117 Insects, too, will probably be more trouble as the season advances. Here, also, too severe measures, with an idea of immediate eiiect, are altogether wrong, and not infrequently do as much, or more, harm than the enemy itself. Use weaker solutions and be more persistent in your washings, and you will have better results combined with safety. The need for ventilation should be avoided as far as possible by a careful regulation of fire- heat, and I am sure much ventilation might be made unnecessary if a little more thought was used in this direction. Mildew is sure to trouble you if you vary the temperature much and allow the slightest draught. Much benefit has been found here by dissoh'ing a little extra flowers of sulphur in the washes generally used. If the solution is kept well on the move, as it should be, you will find a very light and unsightly dusting of sulphur left both above and below the foliage. This is not only harmless, but is a good preventive, and need not be used except to leave the faintest dusting of sulphur upon the foliage. Sussex. ' A. P. SEASONABLE NOTES ON AURICULAS. WITH the arrival of March some of the early varieties show signs of flowering, and it is essential that sufficient pro- tection be given to keep out frost. The grower must study the weather, and not be taken off his guard by bright, sunny days, because these are often followed by several degrees of frost at night. Some cultivators remove the plants that are pushing up their spikes into a cool, low house ; but even a small quantity of fire-heat will sometimes draw the plants and the scapes, which render them very unsatisfactory from a decorative stand- point. Before the first flowers open 1 always like to vaporise the frame to kill any green fly that and are considered by some to be more easily grown than the show varieties. The Fancy Auricula. — Seedlings which cannot be arranged in either of the show classes previously mentioned, but at the same time possess certain good qualities which make them worth growing,, are referred to as fancy Auriculas. Exhibitions. — Next month I shall give a; few details on preparing the plants for show. In the meantime a schedule should be prociured, the classes selected and the plants watched, so that they are in full beauty on the day required. If they are coming on too fast, a north position should be chosen, and the lights removed whenever the weather is mild and dry. T. W. Briscoe. MAGNOLIA STELLATA. To Magnolia stellata belongs the distinction ot being the first Magnolia to open its flowers. It THE JAPANESE MAPLES. The various forms of Japanese Maples, or Acers, are always popular in gardens by reason of their dainty, elegant leafage and brilliant colour- ing. Even in cold districts, where they are not a success out of doors, people often grow them in pots or tubs to stand in a conservatory or greenhouse during spring, for their prettily tinted leaves at that period make them invaluable for grouping with forced shrubs, bulbs and other plants. Then, towards May they are stood out of doors, to be placed in the conservatory again in autumn for the few weeks during which their leaves are gay with brilliant autumn tints. The palmatum group is divided into several sections, according to the lobing of the leaves. The septemlobum section may be recog- nised by reason of its leaves being considerably larger than those of others in the group. They may be as much as 5 inches long, exclusive of the stalk, and 4 inches wide. The number of lobes into which the leav;s are divided varies, but is usually from seven to eleven, and they are divided almost to the base. Each lobe is agaui prettily cut. The colour of the leaves varies on different plants almost as much as the lobing, and for this reason distinctive names have been given to the various forms, such as atropurpureum, bicolor, elegans, and elegans purpureum. In spring the colour varies from bright bronze to greenish bronze or pale green, and in autumn from orange scarlet to scarlet and deep red. In the South and parts of the Midlands the Japanese Maples thrive satisfactorily in a sheltered part of the garden, but in many parts of the North they are not recommended for outdoor work. In West Lanca- shire good specimens are sometimes seen in the open. D. THE FIRST MAGNOLIA TO BLOOM (M. STELLATA). may be on the plants. The operation is not required again till the flowering season is over. Types of the Auricula. — There are two distinct sections of Auricula — the garden kinds, derived from Primula Auricula, and the alpine varieties, from P. pubescens. The latter group contains some of the most beautiful tints and shades, while the former are often covered with a delicate meal or farina. These are known as show Auriculas and are divided into four sections, viz., green edge, grey edge, white edge, and sells. The first three are very beautiful, but I am afraid they are not grown to the extent that their merits deserve. The selfs are a' class where the colour extends from the paste to the edge of the petal, and are, in consequence, very attractive, while in some instances the foliage is densely coated with farina. Although the selfs are largely grown, the premier place in regard to popularity must be awarded to the alpines, which are devoid of all meal or farina either on the leaves or flowers. is a deciduous species, and the blooms open before the leaves unfold. Sometimes the flowers suffer for this earliness in being cut down by spring frosts. In a mild spring, however, there is no shrub more beautiful, for on a bright, simny day the fragrant flowers light up the surrounding landscape with telling effect. It is a native of Japan, and is often cultivated in this country under its old name, M. halleana. Like other Magnolias, it is a little fastidious about soil and situation, showing a marked preference for a light, loamy soil of an open nature and a warm position sheltered from strong winds. It should be borne in mind that Magnolias resent disturbance at the root more, perhaps, than any other class of plants. Whea transplanting has to be accomplished, it is best done in the spring, immediately after flowering and as new growth commences. The fine fibrous roots require very careful handling, while, after planting, the shrubs should be sheltered under mats and freely s^tinged if the weather is dry. 118 THE GARDEN. [March 7, 1914. STOCK BEAUTY OF NICE. Ol' all the gorgeous array of annuals, L few can equal the Stock, and of I its many varieties Beauty of Nice ' must, I think, be awarded first place. This variety can be had in bloom at almost any season of the year, and where a large quantity of cut flowers is required, it is invaluable, as it blooms in about three mouths from the date of sowing, lasts excep- tioually well in water and, above all, has a perfume with which few other flowers can compare. I find it most useful under glass for giving cut blooms in early summer, when the bulbs and spring flowers are all over and the summer flowers not yet in bloom. In this cold climate I sow about the middle of February to have the blooms ready about the end of May, but those who are situated in a warmer spot would do better to defer sowing until the end of the month. Its cultivation is very simple, and I have adopted the following method with great success. Sow the seed thinly in pans of very sandy soil, just covering the seed ivith a sprinkling of sand, and place the pans in slight bottom- lieat until germination takes placi . wliich will be in about eight or ten d^ys. When the young seed- lings appear, stand the pans on :i shelf near the glass in a cool house and grow on steadily, taking care not to weaken the young plants by forcing. As soon as they are ready, prick them off three into a 3-inch pot, using a light, rich compost. Care should be taken not to discard the weaker seedlings, as tliese invariably produce the double flowers. As soon as the young roots come to the sides of the small pots, repot into 5-incli or 6-inch ones, the latter prefer- ably, in which they will flower. A compost consisting of two parts good fibrous loam, half a part each of leaf-mould and well rotted manure, and sufficient sharp sand to keep it porous, will be found most suitable for the final potting. If any bone-meal is at hand, a sprinkling of this can be added, with only the best results. When the flower - buds appear, frequent doses of liquid manure are necessary to produce large spikes, and a rich top-dressing well repays any time and trouble spent in applying it. To produce the best results, a cool but steady temperature is necessary, hard forcing at any period being highly detrimental to the production of good spikes. One word of warning when buying the seed : Go to a reliable firm and be prepared to pay a reasonable price for it, as only the best strains will yield a high proportion of double flowers. I personally like the pink variety best ; but seed can also be had of yellow, white and mauve, and is simply a matter of taste. I am sure that anyone who buys a packet of good seed and gives the plants a fair chance will be rewarded with a quantity of the sweetest blooms, which in beauty of form and fragrance are unsurpassed by any other annual. Troon. Ayrshire. An .Amateur. SOME BEAUTIFUL ANNUAL FLOWERS. COOL GREENHOUSE Erica melaxthera. HEATH. This is beyond doubt one of the most profusely flowered of all greenhouse Heaths. The flowers are usually white or tinged with pink, but the distinguishing feature is seen in the prominent black anthers seated in the centre of each tinv ERICA MELANTHERA. EASILY GROWN HEATH GREENHOUSE. flower, a peculiarity which has earned for tliis Erica the title of the Black-anthered Heath. The flowering season is from autumn till spring, and in the depth of winter pot plants, compact in growth and smothered in bloom, are sent in thousands to our leading flower markets, this being certain proof of the popularitj' of E. melan- thera, if such were needed. The chief point to observe in its cultivation is that it resents a warm temperature. A cool greenhouse will suit its requirements throughout the flowering season, while in the summer-time the plants should be placed in unheated frames from which the lights are raised or removed on all favourable occasions. THE NEMESIAS. THE time for deciding what is to fill our beds and borders in the summer is now at hand once more, and I should like to advise amateurs to give Nemesias a trial. There are, I am sorry to say, only too many who have never had the pleasure of growing these lovely aimuals, and I am sure the only reason that can be given is that they do not know what Nemesias are capable of doing. For making a brilliant dis- play I know of nothing to surpass them, and the flowering season extends over a much longer period than that of the majority of flowers. Being half-hardy annuals, they re- quire a little heat to assist germina- tion if sown early in the year, but this is not essential if sown later on. Their cultivation is simple, and I have always fotmd the following treatment very successftJ : About the middle of March take some well-crocked pans and fill to within an inch of the rims with a light compost containing a good per- centage of old leaf-mould. Over the surface sprinkle a layer of ver\- fine soU, and on this sow the seed very thinly. Just cover over with fine soil or sand and place in gentle heat. Cover each pan with a sheet of glass and keep well shaded until germination has taken place, when the young seedlings must be gradu- ally exposed to the light and air. Great care must be exercised in watering, as negligence in this respect will cause the seedlings to damp off wholesale. As soon as ready, prick them off into boxes about two inches apart each way, using a slightly stiffer compost than before. Place over the crocks a good layer of very old manure to keep the young plants well nourished until they are planted out. Grow them on in gentle heat until they have made nice little specimens, when they must be gradually inured to a cool tem- perature, as this is necessary to keep them robust and strong. .About the end of April they can be safely transfeiTcd to cold frames which have been filled to within a few inches of the glass with good soil enriched with leaf-mould. The latter half of May is the best time to plant them out in their flowering quarters, and the beds must be well enriched with a liberal dressing of manure. They should be well dug and the manure thoroughly mixed mth the soil some time before planting out, so that they may have had plenty of time to settle down to their normal level. Those who wish to give these annuals a trial, but have not a heated greenhouse at their disposal, can raise a fine batch of plants by sowing the seed in cold frames about the middle of April. Keep close and well shaded until the young seedlings FOR THE COOL March 7, 1914. THE GARDEN. 119 appear, when they must be given a little air to keep them sturdy. The after-treatment is the same as previously described, and watering must be done with great care. If a spell of frost should ■come, throw some mats over the frames, and these will keep all safe. These plants will not, of course, flower quite so early as those raised in heat earlier in the year, but when the flowers do come they ■will be every bit as good. When the young plants are well established in their flowering quarters, give weak doses of liquid manure, and, should the weather be very dry, a mulch of old manure "will be found beneficial, and will considerably prolong the season of flowering. Most people prefer the mixed colours, chiefly, I think, because the shades are so numerous and varied and all blend so well together. There are, however, blue, orange, white, and crimson varieties which come true to colour from seed, and all are very beautififl, especially the blue, which is a lovely pure shade. A good strain of ■seed is essential, so when buying it go to a good, reliable firm and be prepared to pay a reasonable price for it. Amateurs would do well to try these lovely annuals, and I am sure they will be delighted with the glorious display of colour which a mass of Nemesias produces. Ayrshire. G. B. brick red flowers. I had this plant growing lu.\uriantly in the open border, but, as it has died, I think that it must be only half-hardy. Cultivation : Should be grown in a cold house in good loamy soil in full sun. P. nessensis (G. Forrest). — Introduced in igii by Messrs. Bees from seed collected by Mr. Forrest. It has pretty flowers of cherry pink in moderate- sized heads. It comes from Yunnan, and belongs to the Denticulata section. This is the plant which is being sent out by Bees, Limited, under the name of Primula farinosa Beesii. Cultivation : Treatment similar to P. farinosa. P. pinnatifida (Franch.), a beautiful little plant with blue flowers, has not proved hardy with me in the open, but in a cold house it should be satisfactory. It belongs to the Muscaroides section. P. Poissonii (Franch.), of the Candelabra section, has been in cultivation since 1890, intro- duced by the Jardin des Plantes, Paris. It resembles P. angustidens in many ways, but has P. pulverulenta (Duthie), — Introduced from West Szcchwan by Messrs. Veitch in 1908, this Candelabra Primula has become a general favourite. It is a plant for every garden, and grows from 2 feet to 3 feet high in rich, moist soil. It has crimson-purple flowers in whorls. It seeds freely, but the lovely white variety Mrs. Berkeley fails to do so with me (see page 42, issue January 24). Cultivation : Good rich garden soil in half shade. The illustration represents a fine colony of this beautiful variety in Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons' Coombe Wood Nursery, and is from a photograph by Mr. R. A. Malby. P. pycnoloba (Bur. et Franch.). — The sole kno'wn member of the section Pycnoloba. This species has a cluster of flowers, with a long, creamy, membranous, wide-mouthed horn, filled at the mouth by the small, dark red corolla. It has hairy leaves, with petioles, and is hardy if it is protected by a sheet of glass from winter moisture. Collected by Mr. Wilson in Central Szechwan and introduced by Messrs. Veitch in 1906. HARDY CHINESE PRIMULAS. ■f^ {Continued from page 108.) P. helodoxa (Balf. fils). — This promises to be a most valuable plant. It belongs to the Candelabras, and has all the good qualities of P. Bulleyana. It is of strong growth and bears hand- some scapes of whorls of dark yellow- flowers in many tiers. It was collected for Mr. J. C. Wilson, Caerhays Castle, in 1912 by Mr. Forrest. It requires the same treatment as P. Bulleyana. P. Knuthiana (Pax). — This has but recently come into cultivation. The flowers are lilac or lilac mauve. It resembles P. frondosa, but is more diflicult to grow. It belongs to the Sertulium section. P. Littoniana (G. Forrest).— This most distinct member of the Mus- caroides section does well with me in pure pulverised loam in a well-drained, shady position. If a piece of glass is placed over it during the winter, it will prove perennial. Unless pollinated it does not seed here, but if that is done it seeds freely. A most handsome and striking plant, with its long spikes of flowers, sometimes 6 inches long, with scarlet bracts and lavender or rose lavender flowers. Collected by Mr. Forrest in the Tali region and introduced in 1908 by Messrs. Bees, Limited. P. Maximowiczii (Regel). — A strong-growing, fragrant species collected in North China by Mr. Wilson and introduced into cultivation by Messrs. Veitch in 1906. The leaves are distinctly petiolate, from 3 centimetres to 5 centimetres long, narrowly elliptical, acute and dentictJate. The scape is from 20 centimetres to 40 centimetres in height, and bears in May a many-flowered umbel of small, dark purple or, in some cases, A BEAUTIFUL GROUP OF PRIMULA PULVERULENTA MRS. R, V. BERKELEY. shorter and broader leaves, and the flowers, which are fewer in number, are larger and of a deeper purple. P. Poissonii has not proved hardy with me, but it is so in some parts of England and Ireland. Cultivation : Good rich soil in damp situation. Half shade. P. pulchella (Franch.), of the Nivalis section, with blue or purple flowers, is very beautiful, and seems to be fairly hardy. It is not yet in the hands of the public. P. pulchelloides (E. K. Ward) belongs also to the Nivalis section. The leaves and stems are covered with yellow farina. The slender flower-scape rises well above the leaves and carries at its summit a number of pale lilac flowers. Both P. pulchella and P. pulchelloides owe their introduction to Messrs. Bees in igrr. Cultivation : Ihave no experience of this in the open, but in pots in a cold house it does well as a pot plant in well-drained grittv soil. P. septemloba (Franch.). — Introduced in 1906 by Messrs. Bees, Limited, from seed sent by Mr. Forrest. The leaves are lobed like a Geranium, as are all the member^ of the section Geranoides, to which this species belongs. In most of its characteristics it resembles P. Gaguepainii, but with me it has not proved hardy in the open. P. sibirica will be dealt with under Himalayan species. P. Sinolisteri (Balf. fils). — An interesting micro- form of P. obconica, sent out as P. Listeri, but not that species which is Himalayan. It is barely hardy with me, but should be so in the South. The reniform, orbicular leaves have not the irritant hairs of P. obcordca. There are two forms, one white flowered, the other pink. P. sinolisteri is very free-flowering. Cultivation : Should be treated in the same way as P. obconica. P. Veitchii. — One of the hardiest of all garden Primulas, P. Veitchii came from West Szechwan 120 THE GARDEN. [March 7. 1914. in 1906, and was introduced by Messrs. Veitch through their collector, Mr. Wilson. It grows well in ordinary soil, and gives an abundance of magenta flowers on stems i8 inches or so high. It belongs to the Cortusoides section and has handsome leaves. P. vittata (Bur. et Franch.). — I think the true P. vittata {with which may be discussed P. secundi- flora as closely resembling it) will only prove half-hardy. P. vittata was introduced in 1905 by Messrs. Veitch from seeds sent by Mr. Wilson. It has elongated, erect leaves and drooping pink- purple flowers, with a white mealy band to the calyx. It is rare in cultivation, and wliat we see in gardens masquerading under the name is P. angustidens, a plant which it in no way resembles. P. secundiflora was collected by Jlr. Forrest and introduced by Messrs. Bees in 1908. It has oblong-elliptic leaves, horizontal in a rosette. P. secundiflora does well with me in a cold frame, but whether It is hardy during the winter in cold districts I am not prepared to say. JOH.\ MaCW'ATT. Morelands, Duns. naturally of a drier character, with a well-drained subsoil, special beds are not at all necessary ; the plants can be equally well grown in rows 2 feet apart, thus requiring no allev space. The Best Plants. — The common practice of forming beds of Asparagus is to purchase two year old plants from the open groimd, carefully putting them out in April. A much better plan is to sow two seeds in a 3-inch pot in sandy soil during the first week in April. Stand the pots in a cold frame, shading them from bright sun and keeping the frame close to hasten germination. Directly the plants appear above the soil, remove THE CULTIVATION OF ASPARAGUS. THIS is one of the most important vegetables, and one that does not receive as much atten- tion as its merits de- serve. In some gardens the same roots will last in a satis- factory condition for twenty years without renewal, while in other parts the beds require making often. The most suitable soil is a deep, friable loam with a porous subsoil, as this does not require much preparation. Deeply dug and well manured, it will last for years in good condition if yearly attention is given to the addition of suitable manurial stimulant. The soil which requires the most pre- paration is that which is naturally heavy in character, some 18 inches or 2 feet deep below which is a hard pan of clay-like matter almost impervious to water. If this is not broken up to a considerable depth to allow water to pass away quickly, the succulent Asparagus roots suffer a check, and imder such conditions cannot grow vigor- ously, as they should to produce heads of the desired quality. Treatment of Poor Soil.— The best method of bringing such soil into a suitable condition would be to remove some of this hard pan of subsoil, replacing it with lightening material when trenching is proceeding, and this should be done at least 3 feet deep, or, all the better, 4 feet, replacing the soil in the same position as it was found. The bottom spit or base should be broken up a foot deep. The Size and Shape of Beds. — In unsuitable soil it is best to form beds 4 feet wide, keeping them a foot above the ordinary gromid-level to ensure effective drainage. Where the soil is When to Plant. — The first week in April, when the plants are on the move, put them out in rows with a trowel, covering the crowns 2 inches with a compost of old potting soil, decayed leaves and wood-ashes to encourage quick growth, .\llow a space of 15 inches between the plants, which will provide ample room for development. Should the weather set in dry, keep the surface soil freely stirred to conserve the moisture. As the growth pro- gresses support the " grass " if it is liable to be bent or broken by strong wind. The second year will see much progress, and every encouragement should be given to induce growth. Liquid manure applied freely will have considerable in- fluence on the subsequent progress of the plants, and frequent stirring of the soil will also assist in that direction. E. M. NEW AND RARE PLANTS. AWARDS OF MERIT. Sparaxis King George V. — -A brilliantly flowered sort of robust habit that should prove popular with all. In point of brilliancy it is akin to Fire King, which gained an award of merit in Jtme, 1902. The new-comer, indeed, may well be described as a vigorous variety of that kind, and as such it will be welcome. The dominant colour of the petals is crimson-scarlet, richer scarlet near the tips, the whole in striking contrast with the deep golden colour of the tube of the flower. Shown by Messrs. Barr and Sons. Covent Garden, W.C. Freesia Excelsior. — A novelty of the first water ; a plant possess- ing the vigorous growth of a Mont- bretia. For the sake of comparison we might refer it to a glorified F. Leichtlinii. The handsome, erect flowers, of remarkable sub- stance, are coloured a rich cream, with faint touches of orange on one side of the tube. Vigour, substance of flower and marked fragrance are among the best attributes of F. Excelsior, which came from Messrs. Suttciu and. Sons, Reading. ODONTOGLOSSUM COLOSSUS, A BEAUTIFUL NEW VARIETY WITH VERY LARGE AND HEAVILY MOTTLED FLOWERS. (Much reduced.) the shading, gradually giving air to induce sturdy growth. When it can safely be determined which is the strongest plant, remove the weaker, as one in each pot is sufficient, and eventually remove the frame-light altogether. When the plants are a few inches high, plunge the pots in ashes at the foot of a north or west wall, which will keep the roots cool during the summer and lessen the necessity for applying water, though any neglect in this respect will prevent that steady growth which is so desirable. Here the plants may remain until the following April, gradually reducing the water supply as the " grass" ripens off. NEW ORCHIDS. Foremost among new Orchids is the immense Odontoglossum Colos- sus, with heavily blotched chocolate flowers from 4! inches to 5 inches across. This is one of the largest, if not the largest Odontoglossum yet raised; the petals are \\ inches broad, with white frilled margins. The plant carried four blooms. Its parentage is unknown. Shown by Baron Bruno Schroder and awarded a first-class cei- tificate. A similar award was granted to Cymbidiuni Alexander! Hamilton Smith's variety, having neat ivory white flowers with a scarlet crimson Up. Shown by Mr. Hamilton Smith, Finchley. Awards of merit were granted to Cypripedium Mogul and the golden orange La;lio-Cattleya .Ariel, both shown by Lieut. - Colonel Sir George Holford ; and to PhaUcnopsis Ariadne, shown by Messrs. Sander and Sons. The foregoing awards were made by the Royal Horticultural Society on February 24. \ March 7, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 121 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. SOME EASILY GROWN WALL PLANTS. THE title of the text here chosen carries witli it more than a suggestion that not all the plants which from time to time may be found upon walls are alike easily grown or established. To some extent the deduction would be true, though not absolutely. Given the right kind of wall and a selection of plants to suit its special requirements, quite a large number of the subjects planted would eventually become a complete success. Quite naturally, of course, there is considerable diversity among the plants themselves — the slow growing and the quick, for example — though we must not allow such differences to create a wrong impression in our minds, since the minute-growing alpine may require neither more nor less care than a plant such as the Aubrietia, which is of much freer growth. The real difference is one of inches against yards ; and those of the latter set, catching the eye by reason of the superabundance of their growth, appeal rather to the imthinking as the more easily grown. At the same time, if we view the matter closely, such exuberance will Vie found to be nothing more than the limitations of the plant's development, that phase of it in particular with which the subject has been endowed by Nature. Such growth is on all fours witli the giant and the dwarf, the Tom Thumb Snap- dragon, for example, taking as long to reach the flowering stage as its taller relative 3 feet or 4 feet high. Why it should be so is not quite clear. But this we know ; that such things occur abundantly in both the animal and the vegetable kingdom, those of the latter affording the gardener greater opportunities for embellishing phases of gardening that otherwise would perforce have had to remain unadorned for all time. In no department of gardening is this more true than wall gardening, the vigorous and free-growing I subjects one has now in mind providing material [• for ornamenting the roughest walls or embellishing [ as with Nature's hand old ruins or rocky places ' wherever they occur. To what extent such places may be ornamented may be gathered from the white Arabis on the roadside wall in the accompanying illustration, and though certainly one of the freest, is also one « of the easiest plants to increase. Every scrap of it ■ getting into touch with damp soil will root, and in a couple of years form sheets of trailing greenery, for a long time in spring and early summer k- beautified by miniature Stock-like spikes of F almost snowy whiteness. It is a plant for the roughest of rocky places or rudest walls, dwarfed, it may be, where the soil is scanty or poor, yet always flowering abundantly, and perhaps all the more prodigally owing to this. The best way of introducing so free-growing a subject is by means of freshly rooted cuttings as the wall is built, arranging them high up the wall so that the draping habit of the plant may receive fair play. Similarly rooted cuttings may be introduced at other times, though preferably in autumn or early spring, so as to ensure a firm roothold before the drought of summer arrives. A particularly good subject, far too rarely seen on rough walls, is Gorydalis lutea, whose elegant, Fern-like habit of growth and myriads of yellow ilowers should commend it to all. The plant is most profuse in flowering, is apparently at home in the smallest cranny or crevice, and grows and flowers apace. It is almost impossible to root cuttings of it, and seeds, which are not always plentifully produced, are the best means Of introducing it. Another excellent free-growing subject best introduced by means of seeds is Saponaria ocymoides, which forms trailing masses of growths 3 feet or 4 feet long, smothered in their season with rose or pink flowers. The white form, alba, and splendens, with flowers more richly coloured than the type, both merit attention because of their free growth and flowering. The Aubrietias. — These as a class are unequalled, whether for freedom of growth or flowering, hardi- hood or reliability ; hence are good enough for all. So good, indeed, are they that one might be pardoned for suggesting an Aubrietia wall, than named. There is also a value in Wallflower, Snapdragon, the Red Valerian (which gives brilliant sheets of colour on chalk cliffs), Dianthus deltoides and many more. Poppies and Thrift have a charm of their own, and so, too, has Zauschneria californica, which, coming late, is capable of brilliant effect. Nor can one overlook The Great Value ol Silver-leaved Plants, which, apart from their own intrinsic merit, perform, when rightly placed, an even greater service to other plants around. This is particularly true when arranged in near proximity to green- leaved plants, which they mirror into greater life by reason of the contrast they afford. Moreover, the silvery whiteness of these plants is enhanced by the drier conditions of soil and the proximity of stone. Achillea umbellata, A. Clavennas. Senecio incanus, S. argenteus and Sempervivum WHITE ARABIS OR ROCK CRESS GROWING ON A ROADSIDE WALL. which, in its day, nothing could present a greater feast of colour. How the plants thrive in the smallest wall crevice is proverbial, so that, with a little encouragement, much might he expected of them. And they never fail. Moreover, they are free seeders, and are easily multiplied by seeds, division or cuttings ; hence the supply is practically unlimited. To entirely mantle a wall with Aubrietias, it should be planted at more than one level to give effect to the object in view. Such a wall would be best if the face of it is rugged. All the same, the Aubrietias are good in isolated tufts, and gladden the eye by their rich or effective colour masses. Dr. Mules (richest violet). Lavender (a most delightful shade) and Fire King are all good, while the older forms of deltoidea are still as serviceable as of yore. Iberis sempervirens is also a fine trailing plant, with white flowers, and perfectly hardy and enduring. Then one cannot omit such as Cam- panula muralis, C. pusilla and its varieties, these preferably for cooler places than those already arachnoideum are all good, with Cerastium tonien- tosum for rough places. Finally, to add a cultural note, it is important that spring-planted walls or seed-sown walls be carefully tended in the matter of watering till the plants have become established and capable of fighting their own battles. Watering should be so done that the soU is saturated, and in this way encourage the roots to penetrate the deeper recesses of the wall, where their safety will be assured. If these few cultural hints are conscientiously attended to, and the plants named selected and planted with a reasonable exercise of common sense, many old walls and cliffs, that in a neglected state are more or less an eyesore to their owners, might be converted into beautiful features, and the expense would be very small indeed. When the beginner has mastered the cultivation of these simple, vigorous growing plants, he will find further interest in overcoming the subtleties ji those that only the experienced can bring to perfection. E. H. Jenkins. 122 THE GARDEN. [March 7, 1914. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. New Vine Borders. — Planting should not take place before the end of this month. By that time the soil should have been warmed through, and the young Vines will immediately start into growth. The soil should be carefully removed from the roots, and this is best done while it is in a moist condition. No fire-heat will be necessary. If the Vines were cut down in early winter, so much the better ; but this must not be attempted now, or the Vines wUl suffer seriously. The Early Muscat Vinery. — If the Vines were started in December, they will soon be showing flower, and during this period the temperature should not fall below 70°. Ventilate with caution, and do not allow the atmosphere to become stagnant. Plants Under Glass. Campanula pyramidalis. — Plants of this, having been wintered in cold pits, should now be examined, the surface sod pricked up, and a top-dressing of fine loam and bone-meal applied. Ventilate the pit freely, and as the season advances give frequent waterings of liquid manure. These plants when well grown are valuable for the conservatory during the summer and autumn. The Conservatory. — Let this be kept as attrac- tive as possible by the introduction of fresh batches of flowering plants, which may include Rhodo- dendrons, Lilacs, Wistarias, Deutzias and Azaleas, as well as various kinds of bulbs. Plants which are being grown for Easter decorations should be given plenty of atmospheric moistmre. Very little fire-heat should be necessary now, but it is well to have them in a forward state, so that there may be no mistake about the supply of such plants as Lilituns, Spiraeas, Richardias and Solomon's Seal, as well as various kinds of flowering shrubs. Fuchsias. — Old plants for summer flowering may now be cut hard back and placed in a tempera- ture of 55° until numerous young shoots appear, and at this stage the old soil may be removed and the plants potted into a compost of turfy loam and leaf-soil, with a sprinkling of rough sand. Early struck cuttings may now be potted into 3-inch pots and plunged in bottom-heat. The syringe should be freely used and very little air given. Pot again as soon as the plants are ready, and place them in a temperatiu-e of 65°. The Flower Garden. Bedding Plants. — In the present month there is much to be done in the way of propagating bedding plants, both by seeds and cuttings. The stock of various plants, such as Coleus, Iresine, Lobelia and Ageratum, is easily increased by cuttings, which should be inserted in fine sandy soil as soon as possible. A gentle bottom-heat is a great advantage where large quantities are required. Seeds of many summer-flowering plants should be sown now, and these mav include Godetia, Clarkia elegans, Nigella, Larkspurs and .Antirrhinums for autumn flowering. Plant Out autumn-raised Antirrhinums, Canter- bury Bells and Sweet Williams in their flowering quarters. Gladiolus Childsii, G. gandavensis and G. brenchleyensis may also be planted now. If only for cutting, these bulbs should be planted on a border for the purpose, so that the flowers in more important situations may be left uncut. Lawns. — During the present month it will be necessary to roll and sweep the lawns, trim the edgings and renovate the paths. E.xamine the drains so that the surface water may pass quicklv away. All these things should be attended to as early in the month as possible. The Rose Garden. — In sheltered situations some of the hardiest varieties may be pruned now, but in exposed positions they are better left for another ten days. In all cases the weak and unripe wood should be cut away, leaving onlv that which is strong and well matured. Unless it is necessary to increase the size of the plants, strong- growing varieties should be cut back to within five or six eyes of the base, while the weaker-growing kinds may be pruned closer, and always to an eye piinting outward. The Kitchen Garden. Tomatoes. — A sowing should be made now to produce plants for cultivation in the open garden. Dickson's Open .Air is one of the best for this purpose. Parsnips. — The roots of last season's crop should be lifted at once and placed in some cool place where a covering of soil or ashes can be applied to keep them in plump condition. The ground ought then to be dug, and, if necessary, a dressing of manure should be given. This ground may afterwards be occupied by late Cauliflower or Broccoli. If not already done, the Parsnips should be sown on grotind which has been deeply dug or trenched for the purpose. There should be no delay in sowing the main crop of Onions. Carrots may also be sown now on well-prepared soil, and should be ready for use in June. Beet. — If a warm south border is available, a sowing of Turnip-rooted Beet may be made now, and again in a fortnight's time. This should be ready for use in June, when young roots will be appreciated. Peas. — A good sowing of Peas may be made now in the open garden for use about the end of June. As soon as the young plants are through the soil, they may be carefully earthed-up and the stakes placed in position. The Pea has many enemies, which must be carefully guarded against. Tlir Pilot, Early Giant and Gradus mav all be sown now. Carrots in Pits should now be ready to thin. Let this be done before the plants become drawn. Three inches should be allowed between the plants. Water the bed carefidly as soon as thinning is finished, to settle the soil about the roots. Give air freely when the weather is favour- able. Carrots which have been allowed to remain in the ground through the winter should now be lifted and placed behind a north wall, where a slight covering of soil or ashes should be provided to keep them in good condition. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Onions. — Any time after this date the general or main crop of Onions may be sown out of doors ; this, of course, will entirely depend on the condition of the soil. If the ground was turned up before the winter, the soil will be well pulverised and in good condition to sow. From this sowing one does not expect to get very large specimens, nor are they desirable for keeping purposes ; consequently it will not be necessary to work in any manure at this stage. One should always, however, give the ground a good dressing of soot. This will be found to be a splendid fertiliser, not only to assist growth, but as a preventive against the maggot. As soon as the Onions can be seen in the rows, the Dutch hoe should be kept going to keep down weeds and prevent the soil becoming hard. Peas. — A sowing of an early variety might be made outside now, and for this select a warm border where the soil is inclined to be light. It is not necessary to have the ground so heavily manured as one would have it for maincrop varie- ties. As soon as the plants can be seen in the rows, give them a dusting of soot, which will ward off slugs and other pests. One usually finds that it is this early crop that suffers most from vermin. Round or Summer Spinach. — A sowing of Spinach may also be made now. Do not sow between the rows of Peas, as is so often done. Unless space is very limited, I think this practice is to be condemned. This sowing should be made on a warm border, and, if thinned out, the plants will not be so liable to run to seed. Continue to make a sowing, say, every three weeks, which should give a constant supply. Parsley. — As a rule, for early supplies of Parsley I prefer to make a sowing in boxes and plant out next month. Where this is not possible, a sowing may be made any time now. We usually grow our Parsley as an edging, and a very handsome edging it makes. Sow the seed sparingly and thin out the seedlings to at least 3 inches apart. French Beans. — Heated pits or frames are usually fully occupied at this season, but if one can be spared, it will be wise to make a sowing ! of French Beans in it. This would prove a useful crop to follow plants grown in pots, and so keep up the supply of this fine vegetable. The Flower Garden. Pentstemons. — Those growing in frames will now be making growth, and as it is rather too early to transplant them in a sheltered border, I would advise pinching them now. This pinching is usually done after they have been transplanted, but I prefer doing it now, and they make ver^- fine plants if treated in this way. Where one wishes to increase the stock of some good varieties, these tops can be rooted in the propagating-pit, and will make quite good plants by April. Pent- stemons are becoming popular for massing in the flower garden, and they are very satisfactory plants for that purpose. They require no staking (always a consideration) and will last in bloom longer than most bedding subjects. Th° latest addition to this class is Mrs. Fred Fulford, glowing crimson-scarlet, possibly the finest of its colour in cultivation. Violas that have been rooted in cold frames should now be placed in nursery lines at the foot of a wall or hedge, and so make room for other bedding plants that require to be hardened off- Crataegus Pyracantha (the Fire Thorn).— For clothing a wall this is a plant that is not so frequently met with as it might be, considering its adaptability. It carries its orange scarlet berries throughout the winter, and these being decidedly bitter, birds seldom trouble it. This is an excellent plant for any wall, thriving equally well on the north and east, and where space is limited it will just suit it, as it fruits more freely when the roots are confined. Tropaeolum speciosum. — This is without doubt one of the prettiest of all climbers, alike for its elegant foliage as for its rich crimson flowers. It is very hard to establish in the wanner counties of the South, but no difliculty should be experienced in getting it established in the North. For some years past I have been success- ful in growing it on almost any aspect. I prefer to get the roots, or underground growths as they are called, in preference to plants that have started into growth. My practice is to take out a small trench at the foot of a wall or hedge, and into it put some leaf-soil ; then lay out the roots hori- zontally and cover them over with some fine soil. On no account must they be disturbed after they have been planted. Plants Under Glass. Poinsettias. — These will now be out of bloom. They ought to be gradually dried off and, finally, w-ater should be entirely withheld. When resting, care must be taken to store them where the temperatmre will not fall much below 50°. About the end of March or the beginning of April they may be partly cut back and placed in heat to produce cuttings. April or May will ia most cases be quite soon enough to begin propagating. CliVias (Imantophyllums). — These useful green- house plants are not now growni as extensively as they used to be, and yet I find they force readily. A few plants put into heat from time to time will produce fine spikes of pale red flowers, which wUl be much appreciated for decorating. Unlike most plants when forced, the colour seems to me to be intensified. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Gooseberries. — As I pointed out some time ago, there is not nearly enough attention paid to the pruning and training of the humble Gooseberry. Anyone seems experienced enough for this work. In many cases, when the pruning has been com- pleted, the bushes resemble as much as possible a hedge that has been indiSerently trimmed. Some years ago I was very much struck with a system of training Gooseberries I saw practised in a garden in Kent. Each bush was supported by a stake about four feet in length. To this stake the centre shoot was trained, which gave it the appearance of a pyramid. The wood in every part of the bush was thoroughly ripened, and the crop was one of the finest I have ever. seen. John Highgate. (Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.) Hopctotin Gardens, South Queensfcrry, N.B. March 7, 1914 ] THE GARDEN. 123 SEASONABLE NOTES ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS. DECORATIVE varieties arc being culti- . vated more extensively every year I because the blooms can be obtained ' by amateurs from August to Christmas without a great deal of labour and expense. New varieties must be purchased, and no enthusiast will hesitate in this matter ; and fven where there is a good stock of cuttings on the place itself, wise growers will occasionally renew it, or a part of it, from a fresh source. Accommodation for Plants. — Now, amateurs. as a body, do not possess unlimited accommoda- tion either in the garden itself or under glass, and. of course, they must grow plants accordingly. Even a dozen will afford many blooms in December and at Christmas-time. By judicious stopping, each specimen may be relied on to yield at least ten flowers, so from twelve plants more than one hundred fine blooms may be available, and as these flowers last fresh for quite a fortnight, a very nice display will be secured at a season when all kinds of flowers are scarce. Propagate by Cuttings Now. — Those of early, medium and late varieties may be propagated now. Insert them singly in small pots or three in 3-inch ones ; then, when rooted, they should be repotted in larger pots without being disturbed. In this way fine pots of plants, bearing at least two dozen blooms, will be available next autumn. Use a very sandy compost, but place a little well- rotted manure in the bottom of each pot before putting in the soil. Make use of a cold frame for striking the cuttings. They may be rooted in a frame on a greenhouse stage ; but at this season the cuttings soon droop, on account of the heat and dry atmosphere, unless very carefully attended to. In the cold frame only a light shade will be needed when the sun's rays are strongest. The early varieties may be propagated in boxes instead of flower-pots, inserting them 2 inches apart each way. From the boxes, transplant the rooted cuttings to others a little deeper, and from these, in the early part of May, to their flowering quarters. When the plants are well rooted and about four inches high, stop them by pinching out the point. This operation will induce side shoots to grow, and usually the three top ones are the strongest and take the lead. Well, another stopping means an addition of six shoots, often nine, and so an amateur cultivator can readily see that, when finally disbudded, a dozen blooms at least are ensured. If not 'disbudded, each pot of plants presents in appearance a huge bouquet. In the matter of stopping, the late-flowering varieties should be dealt with first and the earlv ones last. Sometimes a natural break near the right time obviates the necessity for stopping. Good Early Varieties. — Gertie (salmon pink), Hermine (pure white), Elstob Yellow (better than Horace Martin), Diana (deep bronzy red). Harvest Home (red, tipped gold). La Somme (mauve pink). Normandie (blush pink) Provence (rose pink) and White Pet. Medium. — White Quintus, Le Pactole (bronzy yellow), La Garonne (terra-cotta), October Gold (old gold), Source d'Or (orange red, tipped gold), Viviand Morel (blush mauve), William Turner (white, makes a fine specimen plant), Crimson Source d'Or, Countess (pure white), Cranford Yellow, Mrs. Luxford (Indian red) and Janet (reddish buff). Late. — A. J. Balfour and Dr. Enguchard (two good pinks), Baldock's Crimson, December Gold, Mrs. J. Thompson (white), Western King (white), Nagoya (yellow), Emblerae Poitevine (yellow) and Tuxedo (reddish bronze). Avon. NURSERY NOTES. NEW ROSES IN IRELAND. IN July last I paid my second visit to the beautiful Emerald Isle, and as I know that so many readers of The Garden are very much interested in all that pertains to our national flower, especially its novelties, I thought a few notes as to what I saw during my visit to the three famous nurseries at Portadown, Belmont and Newtownards would find a welcome in its pages. I have visited most of the leading establishments, both at home and abroad, where Rose hybridising is carried out extensively, but I think I should have to award the had been budded or would be budded. At one time Mr. McGredy used to bud five or six each of every seedling he raised — a most prodigious undertaking- but now he is obliged to make selections and bud only the piost promising. As it was, I saw one breadth of stocks containing some 30,000 that had been budded with selected seedlings, no sort in ' greater number than ten or twelve. What an interesting plot this will be this summer ! Even while I was there, there were very many kinds that had started into growth, and I detected some rare gems, some nearly black, others of most wondrous shades. I have an invitation to go over and see this block in bloom this summer, and I only hope I am able to avail myself of it. Mr. McGredy is working on the right lines. He is providing us with rare colours of splendid vigour of growth. We who had the handling of many thousands of plants last autumn know only too well of the great popularity of Lady Alice Stanley, Mrs. Wakefield Christie Miller, Mrs. Alfred Tate, Edward Mawley, Mrs. Herbert Stevens, Mrs. J^Y*' % , V ' J «*iai ■ '"* '%■':■■ ' >*/ ;:■ .■■■';:' FREESIA EXCELSIOR, A BEAUTIFUL NEW VARIETY SHOWN BY MESSRS. SUTTON AND SONS AT THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S SHOW LAST WEEK. {See page 120.) palm for this to Messrs. McGredy. No one could view that splendid house, some 90 feet long, full of plants, every one bearing huge seed-pods, without being impressed by the sight. The crosses made all seemed to have been effective, for the plants bore from three to six, and often more, grand heps, many of the size of small Pears. I was informed that Mr. McGredy had long been working with the old Tea-scented Roses. I could hardly name a variety but what he said was in that house to be used as a pollen parent chiefly. Can we not trace, now that we know, the influence of some of these old Tea Roses upon several of Mr. McGredy's seedlings ? Surely Mrs. Herbert Stevens, in its almost horizontal and slender growths, has a large infusion of the old Niphetos. Comtesse de Nadaillac, Mme. de Watteville, Devoniensis, Sou- venir d'Elise Vardon and others were all in some way utilised and blended with the Hybrid Tea. In another huge structure were to be seen thousands of the little seedlings, many of which .Amy Hammond and others. Next autumn I expect a great demand for Old Gold. It is typical of Mrs. .Alfred Tate, only of a very intense old gold colouring. Something like 10,000 of this variety had been budded before my visit, and the same number each of Mrs. Charles E. Pearson. Mrs. Frederick Vanderbilt, Lady Mary Ward and Edith Part. This wdl give some idea of the estimation in which this year's novelties are valued by their raiser. I saw such a number of good things that I cannot possibly name them all. One named after Mrs. W. D. Prior will be heard of in the future. It is a beautiful golden sort with very long buds. Duchess of Manchester is a fine Rose of free-flowering habit. I noted that it bore some resemblance in its flower to E Veyrat Hermanos, that very vigorous but shy blooming climber, and I was informed that this Rose was its pollen parent. Colleen is a "' great " Rose. Practi- cally every flower comes perfect, and there is a distinct yellow base to its rich rose coloured 124 THE GARDEN. [.March 7, 1914. blossom?. The petals of this Rose are enormous. Mrs. C. E. Pearson will probably surpass Lyon Rose, and Lady Mar\' Ward, Mrs. F. VanderbiU and Edith Part are all worthy additions. The latter is like a heavily shaded Mme. Abel Chatenay. .\ beautiful golden seedling was far better than Mme. Ravary, as seen growing at Portadown, and no small attraction was its beautiful Beetroot- <^oloured foliage. Here also was a lo\ely scarlet better than Liberty. lona Herdmann, Florence Forester, Mrs, Ricardo and Mrs, F, Dennison were all gems that we shall all be wanting when introduced. To view the stupendous number of seedlings, both here at Newtownards and Belmont, one could not help feeling that Rose-lovers are assured of novelties for many years to come. It IS to be hoped that the special attention that will . be directed to the production of fragrant novelties by the gift of a beautiful challenge cup by Messrs. ciay and Son will induce raisers to strain every effort towards this end. I feel certain that ii raisers would refrain for a time from intercrossing so many of the scentless Hybrid Teas, but rather utilise the Damask and Hybrid Perpetuals as pollen parents, at least we should have more fragrant novelties, I fear that this quality enters very little into the estimation of a ne\v Rose on the part of the judges who award the gold medals, but I am also certain that if we could obtain a jury from the general public, this quality would not be ignored. From Portadown I journeyed to Belmont, and met with a most hearty welcome from Messrs. Hugh Dickson, It is always a pleasure to go to Belmont. Both of the brothers who control this huge business are tilled with enthusiasm for the pro- duction of novelties of merit. Mr. Hugh Dickson, who carries out the hybridising, sets himself a very high standard, so much so that novelties 1 thought splendid did not attain to his ideal. This is as it should be, and certainly we are sure of having good introductions from such a source. (In my notes the word "glorified" occurs very trequently.) One is a glorified Mme. .\bel Chatenay, another a glorified -Mme. Segond Weber, another a glorified Mrs. Foley Hobbs, and so on. Perhaps one of the greatest novelties I saw was Gorgeous, I started putting three crosses to certain kinds, but tound very soon I had to increase them to four, and then to six in the case of Gorgeous. There is a blending of amber, crushed Strawberry, with tips of ivory white. Mrs. John Jamieson is a splendidly built Rose ; Archie Gray may take the challenge cup, for its scent is delicious ; Mrs. R. J. McMordie has huge flowers of a most lovely shade ; Mrs. Willie Dickson is the glorified Chatenay ; Mrs. Hugh Dickson is one of the " great " Roses, and is it any wonder that every bud was being worked of it ? Countess Clanwilliam is considered by the firm as one of the very best productions, and is a glorified Luciole. Duchess of Buccleuch, ivory and cream, tipped pink ; Ulster Gem, a splendid addition to single Roses, the first real yellow variety ; Mrs, J. W. Parker will completely rival Bessie Brown ; and 1 shall not be surprised to find it at the head of Mr, Mawley's Analysis of show Roses very soon. Charm- ing is well named, and will be a formidable rival to .Mrs, A, R. Waddell, Brilliant is also well named ; it is of the colour of Pelargonium Paul Crampcl, and one can imagine what a bed of this Rose will be like. Muriel Dickson has Pernetiana blood in it ; one can see this at a glance. T cannot describe its shade .)f colour, neither do I think an artist could paint it. These are but a few of the beautiful novelties in store lor us at Belmont, T only wish we did not need to wait four or five years for some of them ; but when a new Rose is produced it takes quite a long time to raise up a stock equal to the demand. I certainly think something should be done to secure to our raisers a sort of copyright in their productions ; but how it is to be done has hitherto baffled all who have tried to solve the difficulty. We heard from the Rev, J, H. Pemberton at the National Rose Society's annua! meeting that the raising of new Roses did not pay, and I believe the large raiserwould endorse this statement. The public should, therefore, if they wish for good novelties, do all in their power to support the industry. I must defer giving an account of my visit to Newtownards for another article. Danecroft. EDITORIAL NOTICES. Every department of horticulture is represented 171 The Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions relatimj to waiters iipnn irhirh they wish expert adi-icf. The Editor urh-niw'K photographs, articles and notes, but he will not be rvsponsib/e for their safe return. All reasonable care, huwevtr, will be taken, and where stumps are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted contributions. .-l.v rri/ard-'i phntor/raphs, if payment )"'•' desired, the Editor u.sks that the prirr rpijuirnl for ri'pnHlnrtion tie plainly stated. It must bi' distinctly understood that only the actual photo- qrapher or owner of thr. copyright nUl tie treated with. The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic or literan/ contributions which he may not be able to use, and the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an artich' is wrcptrd. Publication in The Garden will alone he reco'iniscd as acceptance . O/iiccs : 211, Turlstork Street, Corent Garden. W.C. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— T/iC Editor intends to make THE Uakden helpful to all readers who desire assist- ance, HO matter lohat the braneh ol gardening may be, and with thai object will make a special feature of the "Answers to Correspondents " columns. All communications should he clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of The CiRDEN, 20, Tavistock Street, Cocent Garden, iMidon, W.C. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, eacli sliould he on a separate piece of paper. Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowerinO shoots, where possible, sfwidd be sent. It is useless to send small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters on business should be sent to the Publisher. FLOWER GARDEN. INJURY TO VIOLETS l,Trent).^Thu fuugu.^ Botrytis oiiiiTc'ii is attacking the foliage of the Violets scut. It is one liki'ly to be" troublesome if the plants are at nil close, ami even when they grow vigorously they arc apt to become victims of this fungus attack unless every precaution is taken to maintain a free circulation of air arnunil and b(-twec'ii tbr plants. MAKING A WALL GARDEN (rorfcs),— We are obliged by yimr letter, Tbe wliolr question of a " few inches " or a " few feet " of coiurete or stone, resolves itself into one of eu-cumstancc, and frequently, as we know full well stone is scarce, wliile sHital>le material for concrete is more generally available, A wall 20 feet high con- structed of a " few feet " thick of rock with a good biitter should be as solid as the rock itself. In some localities, however, tlie cost of so much stone would be prohibitive, ^Vall "ai-deuing presents so many phases that we hope in the near future t., ileal with it in a short series of articles, and to show liy ilhislratioii and text what is possible in \areine ein-iiin.t.tiiees. PLANTS TO SUCCEED DELPHINIUM (B. H. S. £.). - The .\eonituin would certainly be good as a succession, but it comes late ami is tall growing. A much better way of filling the gap woukl be by planting mdiscrimi- nat.lv '■lumps ol the pure white Madonna Lily, which tlowei- in mid- July at i feet or 4 feet high, to be followed some wei-ks later bv the spreading plants of Aster Amellu.s, which take, up so little room at other seasons. The Aster is about two feet high, the colour violet or soiiie shade; of purple. It is a good plant and a wonderful bloomer, .\ster dilfilsus horizoiitalis and A. i-neoides Desire, reddish and white respeetiv.'ly, would be e(|iially "ood and free-flowering. These latter are about three Feet in height. FLOWERS FOR CUTTING (Nemo).- lu the' 4-ieet- wi.le bed at the li.iMse eud of the lawn you could not do better than plant Sweet Peas, which are both useful for cutting and profuse In flowering. Of these you might plant circular groups, as shown in a recent issue of THK Garden, selecting the colours to your liking. With these might lie interspersed the pink Ivy-leaved Pelargonium .Mme. frousse and white JIarguerite Mrs, F, Sander, and with a margin of Godetia a gay border would result for a long time. For the narrower side borders you might have Cornflowers, Sweet Sultans, Gaillardias, Stocks. China .\sters in variety and Carnations, In the 11-feet-long bed. Heliotrope pegged down, with a margin of white ,\lvssum, would do quite well, and in that at the back Iris pallida. I, Mine. Clureau. I. .Mrs, C, Darwin, .Montbretlas. Phlo.v ,Mrs, Jenkins, Gaillardias, Columbines. -\ster -\mellus. .\, ericoidcs Desire, A. eordilollus, A. Beautv of Colwall, Kndbeckla Newmanll. Trollius Orange Globe. Helenlum pumllum, and single and double flowered Pyrethnims. These latter are perennial, and well sulteil to your requirements. BORDERS FOR PERENNIALS (Bullion).— It bi not quite clear from voiir letter uln tlier you require perennials for tile whole of' the bniilers anniiid the lawn, \Vc note vou have -\pple trees apparently In the centre of the iiorth tiorder and Poplars — these presumably near the wall on the south side, Xot many plants would succeed near these latter. Other drawbacks to success, if we rightlv Interpret your figures, are the 20-feet-hlgli walls at east and west, though this might not be serious if, in planting, you keep the subjects 2 feet or 3 feet from the walls, ' For the e.ast end border you might arrange Hollvhoeks. Delphiniums In variety, Sunflowers, tall Michaelmas Daisies, white and rose perennial Pea, Helenium Elverton Beauty and other such plants In the back row, setting out three or more of each to form effective groups. In the next line, which should be at least 2 feet from the first, arrange .\nemone japonlca, \ j aiha, A. j. rosea. Phlo.ves Jlrs, E, II, Jenkins, Iris, Coqiiclieot, Countess of Ilehester, Lady Mary Hope, lleinilus, Selma and Queen AleNandra. together with Iris pallida dalmatlca, I, Mme, Cbereau, I, Dr, Bernlee, T, Darius and I, Mrs, C, Darwin, These may be alternated the one with the other, and by introdiuing Lilium croceuni, L, candldum. L, speciosum and others among them obtain "reatcr variety. In the front line, single and double Pyrethrums. .\ster .\melhis, A. acrls, Helenlum pumllum. Trollius Orange Globe, Iris Victorias. Phlox Tapis Blanc, Campanula carpatica alba, C, .Moerhelmli, C. alomerata speciosa and Clove Carnations might appear ; while, if room stUl remained at the margin. Pinks, dwarf Cam- panulas, .\ubrietias and Mossy Saxifrages should he planted. The dry raised border at the opposite end, if dee|ily trenched and heailly manured, would grow Irises of several sections quite well, or you might make It gav with Carnations, Snapdragon, Pentstemons and other plants In variety. The Spiinlsh Irises would prove most useful In such a case. ROSE GARDEN. ROOTED BRIAR CUTTINGS (D. D. F., Kelso).— Vi'- fear you will have some dilflculty In purchasing these, as Rose-growers, as a rule, do not grow them for sale. Try your local Rose-grower, or, perhaps, Messrs, Cocker and Sons, .\berdeeii, ROSE CLIMBING MME. MELANIE SOUPERT (Annie r,auTie).—'Wc think any of the nurserymen who advertise Hoses in our columns could supply you with thLs, even if they do not list It, If not, and you mil send your full name and address, we will communicate with you by post, CLIMBING ROSES IN GREENHOUSE (Westbank).— The side shoots, or laterals, of Climbing Caroline Testout ami Climbing Liberty should be cut back hard at once, say. to one or two eyes each. If the plants were pot-grown, they should flower well ; but if they were from the open ground and planted In the border last October, you must not expect much bloom this season. REARRANGING A ROSE GARDEN (C. £.).— Wc have much pleasure in advising vou upon rearranging your Rose garden, and as it Is Impossible to deal fully with it in THE Garden, we have forwarded a sketch by post, indi- cating therein the proposed alterations. We quite agree with you as to the spotty effect as at present arranged, and we have noticed many gardens sadly marred by this anparcnt careless grouping of colours. You must discard entirely Relne Marie Henrlette, as It Is too vigorous for bedding, W. A, Richardson is hardly the kind for your purpose, as Its growth would not harmonise with the other lieds unless you peg It down. We have suggested the best kinds, according to vour wishes. Should you wish to kee|) one variety to a bed, you would, of course, use that varietv vim now possess PRUNING CONRAD F. MEYER (Howdcn).— When this "rand Hose is gro\ra in clumps, much of Its beauty is fost if allowed to grow awav as a free bush. If only niu- plant 111 a clump, the variety might very well be allowed to "row almost naturally, as In time Its growth would arch over like a wild Rose of the hedgerows. In your ease we would advise cutting out some of the oldest wood quiti' close to the ground, and the ripened yonug growths retain some 3 feet long, others 4 feet, and one or two 5 feet. Do not encourage too dense a groivth. If the plants are fairly close In the bed, you could retain about four growths per plant ; the blooms would be all the flnor for this thmnlng. Be sure to feed the plants well, and. If you do this, you will obtain splendid blooms almost exhibition size, .\ cluinp or two of tlio white sport. .Nova Zeinbla, would lie a welcome addition, as its snow white, fragrant blooms are always welcome. ^^^1. »^-^- GARDEN. -35--^^i§^^5^ No. 2208.— Vol. LXXVIII. March 14, 1914. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Writing for Catalogues. — It has come to our Icnowledge that a good many people, when writing for seed or plant catalogues, place their letters in imsealed envelopes and stamp these with only a halfpenny stamp. Under the Post Office Regu- lations this is not permissible, and letters sent in that way are surcharged one penny on delivery. This is a serious item to nurserymen and seedsmen, and those who apply for catalogues should either use post-cards or penny stamps. A Beautiful JSarly Flowering Slirub.— Although Parrotia persica was introduced into this country as far back as r848, it is seldom found in gardens. It is a very attractive plant in February, when whole branches are often pro- fusely furnished with flowers, the crimson-tipped stamens of the male blossoms being singu- larly beautiful and imcommon. Although perfectly hardy, it benefits if sheltered from the cold winds by other trees. Apart from its attraction at this season of the year, it is one of the most handsome of foliage plants during the autumn. Small Daffodils for the Rocliery. — Both Narcissus mini- ums and N. lobularis are excel- lent subjects for the rock garden. They flower early in the year, when bright colour is wanted, and neither of them is fastidious about soil, provided that it is light and well drained. N. minimus is the smallest Daffodil there is, and one of the first to flower. In the Midlands it began to bloom this year about mid-February in sheltered places, while in the South of England it was considerably earlier. N. lobularis follows it with about ten days' interval. It is quite twice the size of N. minimus, and is not such a self colour, the perianth being a much paler yellow than its trumpet. When once established, both will take care of themselves. Pruning Ivy. — Few plants are so generally serviceable as varieties of Ivy, either for clothing a wall, hiding unsightly objects, or for covering bare places under trees. Ivies may be planted now, and if established plants in pots can be secured, so much the better, as they go straight away without any check. There are a number of beautiful varieties to select from, and although the large-leaved Ivies grow quickly, the smaller- leaved varieties are preferred for most purposes. To keep Ivy bright, it should be cut over once a year to remove the old leaves. This is best done now, for although Ivy can be cut at almost any time during the winter, by leaving it until now it soon becomes furnished with its new leaves, and therefore does not remain bare for long. A Giant Groundsel. — Few plants can be more effective at the present time than Senecio grandi- florus, with its large, handsome leafage and noble stature, the growth of which sometimes reaches to a height of lo feet and terminates with a huge, flat corymb of yellow flowers from r foot to 2 feet across. The species is a native of Mexico, and, to secure good specimens for the coming season, seeds should be sown at once. It is a very striking plant for the subtropical garden, and if TRITELEIA OR BRODI.EA UNIFLORA, ONE OF THE FLOWER IN SPRING. the flowering period is not reached in the open, the plant may be lifted and potted for decorating the conservatory in the winter. A Beautiful Camellia. — Anyone who is familiar with the large plant of this Chinese species growing in the Temperate House at Kew cannot fail to have been impressed by its magnificent flowers when at their best during February or early March, for they are quite distinct from, and appeal to the decorator more than, the formal flowers of many of the varieties of C. japonica. The bright red flowers are semi-double, with large, irregular-shaped petals and a central mass ot golden stamens, individual blossoms being from 5 inches to 6 inches across, with a resemblance to those of a semi-double Pfeony. The Spring Starflower (Triteleia uniflora). — This beautiful bulbous plant, native of Buenus Aires, is now flowering in many gardens throughout this country. At Wisley it has made a bright display for the past week or two, where it rejoices in a sandy soil and sunny position. The flowers are about six inches high and pale lilac in colour. Like many other garden plants, the Spring Starflower has the misfortune to bear u number of scientific names, having been placed in three genera, viz., Triteleia, Brodiaea and Milla. An Early Daffodil. — The earliest of the large- flowered Daffodils to open with us outdoors this year was Narcissus pallidus praecox, the first blooms unfolding on Friday, the 6th inst. This is a very dainty Daffo- dil, and one that ought to be more extensively cultivated. Unfortunately, it has the undesir- able trait of dying out in many places, and fresh bulbs have to be planted every two or three years. But for its earliness alone it is well worth the expense and trouble, and in a few gardens it thrives and increases. We have it nestling under the wall of the house, by the front door, the aspect being due south. These early spring flowers seem to appreciate close association with the dwelling - house, though, a grass-carpeted copse would provide a more natural setting. Coloured Freesias. — We lately saw a good pot of Le Phare, which is one of the brightest of the new coloured race that have been sent out in recent years by the firm of Van Tubergen, juii., is of a deep rose colour, the individual blooms on the small side, but to make up for this deficiency it is a verj' free bloomer and deliciously scented. The price of this and all the others is high, but we are told by those who have grown them that they are just as easy to manage as either F. refracta alba or Leichtlini. There is no difficulty in working up a little stock, if the bulbs are looked after when they have done flowering. They want feeding with some fertiliser until the leaves begin to turn yellow, when water must be gradually withheld and the bulbs thoroughly ripened by the pots being turned on their sides and put in a warm, sunny place out of the reach of wet, until they are shaken out and graded at planting-time in .\ugust. EARLIEST BULBS TO of Haarlem. It 126 THE GARDEN. [March 14, 1914. CORRESPONDENCE. {The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents.) Hardiness of Spiraea lindleyana. — in a recent issue I saw it stated that Spiraea lindlej-ana can be only " recommended with safety for Southern gardens." I have a very fine specimen, of which I enclose a photograph, in my Yorkshire garden, 500 feet above the sea-level, on the north side of my house. The photograph was taken on August 26. The largest stump measured 16 inches in circumference, and the largest living branch 12 inches. This shrub was an offset from a plant growing in a small garden in Rich- mond, Yorks, which was given me quite forty years ago. I have been told since that it was not kno\vn in England so long ago. JMy impression is that it was sent to my friend from South America. I have given awav manv offsets of this Yorkshire Sherborne House. No:thleach. R.S 0. [We thank Lord Sherborne for his interesting letter, and should be pleased to hear from any other readers who have found this charming little Heath thrive in limestone soil. — Ed ] Saxifraga burseriana and lis Varieties.— In your issue of last week " Alpinist " states on page 114 that he doubts if Saxifraga burseriana and its varieties Gloria and major can be dis- tinguished when groixTi under similar conditions. My little experience with them has shown S. b. Gloria to be totally distinct from the type ; indeed, for gardening purposes it might even be a distinct species. 1 have one clump of the type and one of S. b. Gloria growing side by side in the same pocket of my rock garden. Each clump measures about eight inches in diameter. On February 13 the type began to open its beautiful snow white flowers, fifteen in all. S. b. Gloria did not begin to flower until February 24, just as the type was going o^^er. No fewer than thirty-seven strong ;^.:-^ A FINE PLANT OF SPIR.EA UNDLEYANA IN A YORKSHIRE GARDEN. THIS SHRUB IS GENERALLY CONSIDERED HARDY ONLY IN SOUTHERN COUNTIES. specimen, and have now a good plant in my garden in Bucks. — Hedgerley. The note by Mr. Louden of South Woodford in February 28 issue, page ro2, was of interest to rne. We have three plants of the same shrub here. They are on heavy soil and absolutely exposed to the north, yet they flower in profusion, and have been greatly admired. At present they are again very promis- ing.— J. F. RouGHT, Buckland, Berks. Erica carnea in Limestone Soil. — Surely the little pink Heath which is now flowering so abundantly here is Erica camea ? Yet I see that a writer in your issue of February 28, page 102, says that E. carnea " spreads rapidly in a sandy peat soil, or it may readily be grown in a loamy soil if there is no lime present." The garden here is situated in the middle of the Cotswolds, and the soil is nothing but a limestone soil, yet Erica camea spreads rapidly and flowers abundantly, and I have always looked upon it as the one Hfath which would flourish on limestone. — Sherborne, flower-stems were produced, each bearing a magnificent flower fully twice the size of the type. The entire plant seems smothered with blossom still. The petals appear to be of stronger texture than in the type, and as the flower-stalks are quite 2 inches long, they are not so easily soiled. As they come into bloom I protect them with a pane of glass overhead, and also have to surround them with a perforated zinc ring to keep slugs from eating the flowers. My plants are growing in very gritty loam facing south-east, but receive a little shade from the east from a plant of Hyperi- cum olympicum in an adjoining pocket. They arc watered copiously in dry, hot weather, and seem to thrive well under these conditions. — Norman G. Hadden, St. Audreys, Malvern. Reference has been made by " Alpinist " in your issue of March 7 to the Saxifraga burseriana grandiflora exliibited by Mr. Frank Lloyd of Croydon and illustrated on page ir6 of that issue. The writer stated that it would be interesting ' to hear what the cultivator hjtl to sav- upon how such a specimen was obtained. I would dispel any doubts upon the quantity of flowers the plant carried. The plant was shown in an 8-inch pan, 5 inches deep, with 354 perfectly developed flowers. There were other inferior buds setting in the crowns of the plants which were not in flower at the time of exhibiting, making a total of about three hundred and seventy. These later buds have come into flowsr since ; the majority of the 350 have gone over or faded. I counted the flowers before exhibiting, and had two witnesses to observe that the number was cor- rect. The method of cultivation is simple. The pans are well drained with potsherds and red brick, broken up. A layer of turfy material is placed over the crocks, and sandstone 2 inches thick and 4 inches deep is set upon the turfy material and allowed to keep above the soil, which should be pressed firmly between the sandstone when potting or placing them in the pans from pots or division. The soil consists of a small quantity of loam, and this binds the compost together as it is motmded above the level of the rim of the pan. A slightly larger quantity of finely sifted leaf-soil than the loam is added, with, also, coarse sand, sifted coke- ashes and old mortar rubble. These ingredients are well mixed together. A very important matter is the site for S. burseriana and its allies. Our method is to plunge them in a bed of coke- ashes after they have done flowering, and start them into growth in early May, out in the open in the brightest light possible, keeping them well watered through the summer months. In October the plants are transferred to cold frames and plimged in ashes, with air admitted continuously night and day. The plants are never shaded, either while in flower or out, not even if division has taken place. This type of Saxifraga must not suffer from drought at any time, and while in bud search must be made for green fly in the axils of the crowns of the plants, for the insects transport themselves to the flowers, which will not open if infested. We pick them out with small tweezers in the early stage if a plant contains the pest. — M. E. Mills. The Gardens, Coombe House. Croydon. Surrey Peat Moss Manure for Rliododendrons.— I am reading the symposium appearing in The Garden upon the subject of peat moss manure with interest, especially as I am making a bed for Rhododendrons and thought of using it. One of the contributors spoke of having used it for that class of plant, so I wrote him for further information, and received the enclosed reply, which perhaps may prove of interest to readers of The Garden. [" I have generally used it with about one-fourth of its own bulk of sea-sand, of which we can easily get an abimdance, being on the shore of the Firth of Forth. I have, however, used it with good effect neat, and always almost fresh from the stables. I have been particularly struck in one instance as to its utility in the latter form. When 1 took charge of the gardens here, thirty-two years ago, I found what was evidently from its foliage (there was no flower) a good varietv of a hybrid Rhododendron in the last stages of decay, under a thicket of trees. I had it removed to an open situation, where 1 planted it with an abundance of pure moss litter fresh from the stables ; it gradually began to resuscitate, and for many years it has been an object of great beauty (its quality being all I had anticipated), and at the present time it is smothered with swelling flower-buds. 1 have no doubt you would find it equally useful mixed with good fibrous loam. — Chas. Comfort."!. — Hubert Rensted. March 14, 1014.' THE GARDEN. 127 Peat Moss Litter Manure : Is it Injurious ?— 1 have used a great deal of peat moss litter manure, and have a high opinion of its maniu-ial qualities. I find it especially good for digging into fjowcr beds and borders, where it would not be wise to use strong farmyard manure, which would cause the plants to make foliage at the expense of flowers. Where one has difiiculty in growing Carrots, it may be applied as a top-dressing just after they have been thinned. This will prevent an attack of Carrot fly, for it is well known that any evil-smelling substance is repugnant to this pest. As a top-dressing to inside Vine borders it is invaluable, as it tends to keep the roots near the surface, a point always to be aimed at. On the whole, however, I consider that for general purposes it is not superior to well-made farmyard manure ; nevertheless, I consider it an e.xcellent substitute. — John Highgate, Hopetoun Gardens, South Queensferry, N.B. — — I have not had much experience with peat moss litter, for the reason that I would not have it in the garden. I do not think this is altogether pre- judice, for what little I have had dug into the ground never appeared to me to incorporate itself with the soil, but would turn up again at a later digging without, apparently, having imparted much virtue to the soil. In my opinion, straw manure, well rotted, is rafinitely superior as a manure. — Arthur Bullock, The Gardens, Copped Hall, Epping. My experience with this manure has been far from satisfactory. Some years since I used it in a trench for growing Leeks. The manure was rather fresh. Possibly a month had elapsed from the time of planting before any bad result was noticed. Then gradually the young plants died oS. The shortage of good stable manure is a serious drawback in many gardens. When purchasing manure, one has to be very careful, and the loads as they arrive should be examined. Shavings from joiners' shops, and even sawdust, are used in many stables as bedding, and, needless to say, the manure from these materials is injurious to plant-life. Sweepings from the streets are also dangerous, that is, from streets where prepara- tions containing tar or other poisonous substances are used upon the surface. I notice in a recent issue of a contemporary that Mr. W. Crump, the well-known gardener at Madreslield Court, in reference to the cultivation of Montbretia, writes : " Do not use fresh manure, especially if the animals have been littered with peat moss." — C. R. Hardy Cyclamen. — These flower both in winter and early autumn, though perhaps the winter- flowering khids, veritable harbingers of spring as they undoubtedly are, receive the greater welcome because of that fact. This year, chiefly because of the exceeding mildness of the season, they are earlier than usual, as witness the fine displays that were forthcoming at both the January meetings of the Royal Horticultural Society. These, doubtless, had received frame protection— they certainly afforded no proof of having been forwarded in heat — though, even so, their flowering was abnormally early. Thus grown they make lively pictures in the alpine-house, and even though quite miniature ^s compared with the giants of the Persian race, they are none the less welcome, certainly none the less beautiful or charming. Not less pretty — decidedly more natural — are they when seen carpeting the ground in sheltered woodland places, where, nestling in the scant grass or herbage of the time in sweet communion with all around, they brave the liardships of the weather, and, protected by tlteir carpeting leaves, remain fresh and bright for many days. — E. H. J. Tlie Yellow Snowdrops. — The Snowdrops with yellow instead of green markings are in full bloom at present, and are much more charming than many who consider such flowers as freaks would suppose. I have the single lutescens and flavescens, with the double one, and one or two others. They are very beautiful, although this is not said in any mood of depreciation of the common Snowdrop with its exquisite green markings. — S. Arnott. Rtiododendron moupinense. — The illustration of this Rhododendron in The Garden for February 21, page 98, gives an excellent idea of an attractive little plant which, when available, will be a welcome addition to the small-leaved, dwarf Rhododendrons suitable for the rock garden. The plant shown at Vincent Square was raised at Warley from seed sent from Western China by Mr. E. H. Wilson when collecting for the Arnold Arboretum. It flowers the third year from seed, and has proved itself to be perfectly hardy during its five years' experience in the open at Warley. — E. WiLLMOTT. Sowing Hollylioek Seed. — In reference to your note upon this subject on page 89, February 21 issue, it may interest your readers to know that the noted growers, Messrs. James Vert and Sons of Saffron Walden, Essex, raise very large quanti- ties of plants annually from seed sowa in the open ground in May. Plants raised at this time become strong and sturdy enough to stand throughout the winter. To this firm, who have made a careful study of the Hollyhock for many years, we are indebted for the introduction of many beautiful varieties, and their annual exhibits at the Royal Horticultural Hall, and also at Shrewsbury, are always a source of pleasure to florists. In order to check the spread of disease, which is such a serious drawback to the cultivation of these noble plants, the above firm have prepared a specific, in powder form, which has proved a boon to growers. — Colin Ruse, Folly Farm Gardens, Sulhamstead, near Reading. The Hailshamberry. — -A paragraph in The Garden for February 28 on autumn-fruiting Raspberries reminds me that I have never publicly acknowledged, as I intended to do, my deep debt of gratitude to the Hailshamberry for having supplied me with fruit for delicious little pies or tarts last year right on from September to early December. These, by the way, were always made d la the small pork or veal pies that one gets at the refresh- ment rooms of our railway stations. Made in this way, I always think the flavour is better than when the fruit is put into an ordinary dish and cooked in the usual way. The aroma when the crust is broken down is a veritable appetiser for the delicious mouthful that will follow. To start with I had only four or five plants, which in the course of two years have become joined into a line at the foot of a south wall. I cut out all the old wood and prune any shoots likely to bloom before the autumn. Nature does the rest. The berries are acid in flavour, and I find birds leave them severeh' alone. In appearance they are like fat Raspberries, and the fruits, once fonned, go on ripening in most unpropitious weather. I cannot say that the plant is very free-fruitnig, but there is not much to complain about, and very likely with better treatment than I have given it this might be entirely overcome. I always say that if for any reason I only grew one kind of fruit in my garden, that fruit \yould be the Rasp- berry. In jam and jelly, in sauce and salad (alone, with a suspicion of maraschino), in planta- tion and pie, it is unsurpassed. My grateful respects to the Hailshamberry for the long-drawn- out season that it gives us. — Joseph Jacob. Two Fine Dwarl Lobelias. — Although formal bedding is not now much favoured, there is still room in most flower gardens for a really good Lobelia. For the last seven or eight years I have grown Waverley Blue, and nowhere have I seen anything finer. It is a true blue in shade, the blooms being large and very freely produced. As a bedder it leaves little to be desired, and for pot work far surpasses anything I have ever tried. Under glass, of course, it is a little paler in colour ; but it blooms for four or five months on end, and never gets straggly. This variety also keeps well during the winter under ordinary treatment. The other variety I favour is named Halley's Blue ; it is several shades darker than the first named, and has a very slight tinge of purple. It is later in blooming, too, than Waverley Blue, but continues right on till frost cuts it down. It is dwarf and very floriferous. but not very good under glass. — C. Blair, Preston House Gardens, Linlithgow. MY GARDEN BEAUTIFUL. I know a garden beautiful, All filled with rare delight ; No fairer feast of bud and bloom Sure ever met the sight ; .\nd when a myriad smiling lips Receive the sunbeams' kiss, -A song of such sweet rapture floats And trembles into bliss. Far from the World's unresting ways My footsteps love to stray. Unto this garden of delight Where cooling fountains play ; To rest my tired heart, and feel Sweet wooing whispers bless, — The tender eloquence of winds That sigh their soft caress. Adown each fragrant winding path Ah me, what healing blows ! What peace outbreathes from shapely forms Where Love has lent repose ; The vision of all tints — how fair ! How fair each shining cup ! Dew-filled with glint of diamond. Where thirsty bird may sup. .\nd in this paradise of flowers. The warbling never dies ! It wakes the morn, it lulls at eve, It closes beauty's eyes ; .\nd as I seek it ever here, The bloom Heartsease is found ; .\nd so my Garden Beautiful To me is holy ground. Fr.\nces Handlev. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. March 17. — Broughty Ferry Horticultural .Asso- ciation's Meeting. March 18. — Ste\'enage and District Horticultura Society's Spring Show. March 19. — Linnean Society's Meeting. Royal Society of .Arts Meeting : Paper by Mrs. Villiers- Stuart on " Indian Water Gardens." Exliibition of Spring Flowers at Brighton, 128 THE GARDEN. [March 14, 1014 PERENNIALS FOR SPRING PLANTING. IT is generally conceded, I think, that for the vast majority of herbaceous perennials and the greatest variety of soils there is no season of the year more suitable for planting than that of early spring. It is as true of the seedling as it is of the more established example, and equally so of that older type of the last named, for which division of the rootstock in conjunction with transplanting are essential if the plant is to give of its best. It is true, too, from the propagator's point of view, inasmuch as it is at that season of the year that the majority of her- baceous perennials, starting root and branch anew, also develop, if opportunity is afforded for so doing, a proportionate number of the latent eyes or buds which may be found about the bases of the stems, it may be of Torch Lily, Tufted Pansy, Delphinium, Michaelmas Daisy, Pyrethrum or many another besides. Left to themselves in undivided clumps, these same buds are either crowded out of existence altogether or go to swell that little forest of weakly- growths more common, happily, in clumps of herbaceous border plants a decade or two ago than they are to-day. Thus it would appear that cultivators generally are moving in a right direction, and that amateurs, realising how to make the most of things, are also prepared to cultivate their border flowers on more rational lines than hitherto. In former times it was no uncommon thing to see great mat-like swards of the Michaelmas Daisy occupying a border, the nearly bare stems and inadequate floral display but the net result of starvation — the exacting toll of neglect. To-day we know that these same plants merit annual or biennial division and transplanting, giving, some thirty, some lifty, some a hundred fold of their flowers, as the result of the cultivation bestowed. In principle the same is true of other plants — Phlox, Sunflower, Hele- nium, Campanula, Day Lily and the like — and the measure of their success at flowering-time will be also that of the cultivation — or lack of it — they receive ; hence the desire for timely action. Preparing the Border. — At all times a well- prepared border is essential to success. Such preparation is more easy of accomplishment in the case of a new border where trenching and manuring can be done in advance, and without such hindrance or interruption as is inseparable from a border not destined for complete over- hauling. So much, however, might be advanced in favour of the latter, and so good the results, that in all cases where possible it is worth pur- suing. All the same, there are many things — Phlox, Pyrethrum, Potentilla, Japanese Anemone, Delphinium, Day Lily nnd P.-BC.ny, to name but a few — that are infinitely better i! left for two, three, or even a greater number nf years, and to these the importance of a well-prepared border at the outset cannot well be overestimated. In the case of heavy soils, the addition of grit and leaf-soil will assist drainage, just as a free addition of lime will assist porosity and do other important work. For light soils the manure should be introduced low down, where later it may play the part of a cool retreat — a sponge — for the root? in the e\ent ol dry weather. The Big Clump Fallacy. — Elsewhere I have written of the " Fallacy of the big clump," and it is worth repeating here. In short, the big clmnp of Pffiony, Michaelmas Daisy. Lenten or Christmas Rose, Iris, Pvrethrum, or what vovi forks are infinitely more safe, in tliat either can be directed to any point of the plant's anatomy at the will of the operator. In this way solid clumps — Trollius or Pyrethrum — first bereft ol soil by washing or otherwise, can be reduced to quite small divisions with impunit}-. So, too, can larger-growing subjects, as Iris Isvigata and others. In the case of Flag Irises, all that the planter has need of is the most recently formed rhizome with its growing crown attached. The Michaelmas Daisies of the Novi-Belgii set separate readily with the hand, while those of the Novae-Angliffi group, being more woody, are best wrenched asunder by means of hand- forks. On the other hand, the closer-growing rootstock^ of such as ericoides and cordifolius sub- mit to careful division with a knife, and many other instances might be given. The whole object of divi- sion is reinvigoration, and the most youthful pieces — the fittest — are all the gardener need bother about, planting these with a free hand in groups to give immediate effect. Some Useful Plants for Cut- ting.— There is ever a demand for flowers in the cut state, and the followfng is a selection : Single Pyrethrums Hamlet (pink) and Tames Kelway (crimson) ; double, Ne Plus LUtra (pale pink). Aphro- dite (white) and Pericles (yellow) ; .\sters Amellus, ericoides Desire, cordifolius in variety and Beauty of Colwall ; Irises pallida, aurea, Mrs. Darwin and Dr. Bemice ; Galegas in white and mauve, white Everlasting Pea, Gaillardias, double and single flowered Gypsophila paniculata, Aquilegia chrysantha, .Alstroemeria aurantiaca. Cam- panula persicifolia in variety, Montbretias, Scabiosa caucasica. Lupines, Rudbeckias and Heleniums. E. H. Jenkis's. I A WELL-GROWN PLANT OF LUPINUS POLYPHYLLUS, A PERENNIAL FOR CUTTING. will, is to the planter a delusion and a snare ; a youthful specimen is capable of much better work. The obvious reason of this is that the youthful plant has unlimited opportunities for development, while the big clump, with its score or so of crowns, can only develop a tithe of them and root fibres pro rata ; hence the fallacy. The Spade-Divided Clump is almost as bad as the last ; plays " second fiddle " to it, in fact, in that it retains the feebler crowns of the plant, which, together with the woody portion inseparable therefrom, would be doing greater service for the garden by creating potash d la bonfire. Moreover, the spade as a tool for dividing plants is a cumbrous, ofttimes a dangerous thing. A strong pruning-knife or a couple of hand- VIOLETTAS. (MINIATURE -FLOWERED VIOLAS.) T is many years since the late Dr. Charles Stuart, M.D., of Chirnside, Berwickshire, suc- ceeded in raising the first of this beautiful race of hardy plants. From quite reliable USEFUL information it appears that this en- thusiastic botanist and florist began his original work so early as the year- 1874. In that year he took pollen from a garden Pansy named Blue King, a well-known bedding variety at that period, and applied it to the pistil of Viola cornuta, a Pyreuean species. The cross was quite success- ful, and in due course a podful of seed subse- quently produced twelve plants. When these plants came into flower, they were all blue in colour ; but, what was most important, each plant h.ad a good tufted habit. Subsequently, in later years, the flowers of the first cross were fertilised with pollen from a pink garden Pansy, and a measure of success attended this etlorl. The resulting seedlings gave flowers of more variety in colour and still the same very desirable tufted habit of growth, showing olearlv the March 14, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 129 influence of V. curnuta. These plants were propagated and sent to the Royal Horticultural Society's Gardens at Chiswick for trial, where they gained no fewer than six first-class certificates at the hands of the floral committee, who recognised in the growth of these plants something entirely different from all that other growers had sent in for trial. At a later period Dr. Stuait, when looldng through his seed-beds one day, espied what he had long been looking for, viz., a flower without rays in the centre, which was a pure white rayless self. This was in the year 1887 — Queen Victoria's Jubilee. The plant was forthwith pulled to pieces, and, in the words of the raiser, " every bit propagated." A notable fact recorded at that period was that the blossoms were beautifully fragrant, and this is not the least of the attractive characteristics of these plants. The fore- going is a true history of the Violettas, the original of which was a more or less chance seedling, the result of a series of crosses that it is impossible to very defi- nitely trace. There are persons who are disposed to question the origin of this charming type of these beautiful hardy flowers, in which attention is called to the fact that the original cross was made in 1874, and that " Violetta " did not appear until 1887 — thirteen years after. A Lovers of the hardy flower garden will always be indebted to the late Dr. Stuart for what he did for the Violas and many other beautiful plants, such as the Poly- anthuses and the Aquilegias.. Between the year of the introduction of Violetta and the seasons of 1896 and 1897 Dr. Stuart raised several very beautiful additions to this new type, few of which, unfortunately, are to be found in the lists of the Viola specialists of to-day. The reason for this, I am disposed to believe, is largely due to the fact that comparatively few growers were prepared to give them their proper place in the garden. They could hardly be regarded as rivals to the large- flowered Violas that are now so extensively grown in all hardy flower gar- dens worthy of the name. A few sorts like the original variety are vigorous and spreading in their character of growth, and free-flower- ing withal. The majority, however, are less robust, yet suffi- ciently hardy to justify a position less trying than an ordinary open border or bed in exposed positions. A much better position for them was found in the rock garden, where slightly sheltered quarters could be afforded the plants during the heat of the middav sun m the YOUNG SEEDLING VIOLETTA PANSY. OR MINIATURE height of the summer. Here they were found to luxuriate, making these quarters bright and beautiful with a profuse display, when so many other occupants of the rock garden had lost their beauty and interest. These plants usually come into flower in April, and continue to blossom quite freely until the early autumn. One of our greatest authorities on hardy flowers, to whom ANOTHER SEEDLING VIOLETTA AT A LATER STAGE. STURDY FLOWERS. 1 submitted a number of my newer scedhng Violettas last season, proposes to call these miniature-flowered Violas " Fairy Pansies," a very charming description of these dainty little flowers. He is of the opinion that the plants want cool soil and situations, and would probably thrive on the new moraines which people are making for all the smaller alpine' flowers. I am of the same opinion, although ray plants are flowered in ordinary nursery beds exposed to the sun's influence from early morning until sunset. Positions that suit the beautiful Grecian Violet (Viola gracilis) will answer the needs of the Violettas admirably. I have seen this attractive Grecian species growing in wonderfully vigorous fashion in a small moraine, the moraine soil con- sisting of the free use of sandstone chips and good, open soil. Such quarters should be ideal for the Violettas. The latter should be planted in small colonies, in order to obtain quick results. The plants are always rather small when distributed, but they very soon make beautiful little tufts 6 inches to a foot in diameter, which are freely studded with dainty little rayless blossoms. The Viola Conference «of 1894 laid down rules to define the ideal properties of the miniature-flowered type, which, briefly, are as follow : Form may be narrow and more oval, the petals smooth and of good substance. The colour should be bright, clear and strildng. The eye should be bright gold or orange, and may run into the under petal, and the flowers nmst be rayless. The flowers should be sweet-scented. As regards size, I J inches in diameter is considered the maximum ; and in regard to habit of growth, the plants should be dwarf and procumbent, short-jointed and bushy, and flower-stalks of such length as will bring the flowers well together. Since the foregoing properties were defined, there have been develop- ments with these plants, and the newer intro- ductions are varied in several particulars, but not in any way to the detriment of the type ; rather the reverse. A few sorts worthy of special mention are the following : Eileen, mauve blue, very free and reliable ; Cynthia, pale blush lilac ; Sweetness, blush white ; Vestal, white ; Rock Lemon, primrose ; Rock Yellow, bright yellow, richer lower petal ; Rock Orange, orange yellow ; Estelle, minute white, flushed yellow ; Diana, primrose ; Rock Blue, deep mauve blue ; Molly, NOTE ITS COMPACT HABIT AND 130 THE GARDEN. [March 14, 1914. rich ypllow, ideal form ; Grace, white ; Queenie. hlush : Dainty, pale mauve blue ; Ina, deep mauve blue ; Lavinia, blush Ia\'ender ; Butterfly, lower petals rich yellow, upper petals pale yellow ; and the tj'pe. There are many other good things ui which httle is yet known, but the aforementioned varieties should make a most interesting collection. Htghgate. N. D. B. Crane. ROSE-GROWING IN TOWN GARDENS. Tea Roses. — Success with many of the Tea Roses is almost as much a matter of climate as of cultivation, and the inexperienced gardener wUl be well advised to commence with a few only of the hardier sorts. There are several strong-growing varieties which succeed well in most townis, and, on account of their fine qualities and continuity of flowering, these are of the greatest value, both for exhibiting and for decora- tion. It frequently happens that, by reason of its surroundings, a town garden is particularly sheltered, and Teas may be grown with some success ; but they should always be placed in a position that will secure their protection from north or north-east winds, while giving them a full share of sunshine. Some kinds, such as the Cochets and Souvenir de Pierre Notting, %vhich are mild^'-proof, may be grown with advantage against a wall or fence having a southerly aspect. The Best Soil. — ^Teas prefer soil that is lighter and warmer than is suitable for most other varie- ties, and a somewhat sandy loam liberallj' enriched with cow-manure forms an excellent staple. Heavy clay soils, which are naturally cold, need to be lightened considerably, and a quantity of leaf-mould should be added, as well as stable manure and road scrapings or other material. Many of the more vigorous kinds succeed well on standard stocks ; but it must be remembered that when grown in this way it is the roots of the Briar which have to be catered for, so that they will do best in a heavier soil. Flowers Not Opening. — One of the difficulties in growing Tea Roses is in getting the flowers to open, and there are two chief factors to success in this. The first is to maintain the plants in a healthy and vigorous condition, for a Rose that is a bad opener will seldom expand its blooms when the growths are weak. A great deal may be done to obviate this at pruning-time by cutting back to sound, plump eyes, and subsequently conserving the energy of the plant by rubbing out a nmnber of the weakest buds. This should be done before the end of April. The second point is to protect the blooms during the opening stages, the usual method, and the easiest, being to place a Rose shade over each one. A more useful protection would be a light, glazed framework consisting of top and front only, which could be quickly placed and adjusted over any plant and as easily removed. One wonders that some enterprising horticultural builder has not already evolved such a contrivance, which would be invaluable to the exhibitor. Easily Grown Teas for Bedding are Corallina, coral red ; G. Nabonnand, flesh, shaded rose ; Lady Hillingdon, bright golden yellow ; and Mme. Antoine Mari, blush white. Those who prefer larger flowers should try the following kinds : Lady Roberts, buff, with orange and copper base ; Maman Cochet, flesh, shaded yellow and rose ; White Maman Cochet, pale lemon ; Mme. Jules Gravereaux, a serai-climbing variety, yellow, suffused pale pink ; Molly Sharman Crawford, eau de nil white ; and Mrs. Foley Hobbs, ivory white. Exhibitors will find many other Teas of great assistance, especially for autumn shows, some of the finest being Alexander Hill Gray, lemon yellow ; Mrs. Herbert Stevens, white ; Mrs. Edward Mawley, pink ; Mrs. Myles Kennedy, creamy white ; Mme. Constant Soupert, deep yellow, shaded peach ; and Souvenir de Pierre Notting, apricot yellow. There is now a strong-growing chmbing form of the last named, which, I understand, is a great improvement upon the dwarf variety and opens better. Climbing White Maman Cochet has also found its way to this country, and is sure to become a favourite when it can be obtained at a popular price, as it makes an ideal climber for a south wall. P- I- GODDARD. THE LATE PLANTING OF ROSES. PERHAPS there is no greater fallacy entertained by the man in the street than that regarding planting Roses in late spring. People have re- marked to me, even in February, " I should like to plant some Roses, but 1 fear it is too late." I have, fortunately, been able to show them beds of Roses planted even in April that quickly dispelled such an idea from their minds. Excepting for special circumstances, I do not wish readers to infer that spring planting is pre- ferred to autumn planting, as that would be going against all experience of practical men ; but I do say that no one need hesitate to plant Roses now, and for another month to come, with a certainty of a fine display this year. Some Advantages of spring planting may briefly be stated. First, as regards tender varie- ties, late planting is undoubtedly in their favour. The producer has means of protecting such Roses, even if we experience severe weather ; whereas, if the amateur plants them in his garden, the chances are they would be lost. Doubtless many readers of The Garden live in especially cold and wet districts. If that is so, they wUl do well to defer their planting until spring. I do not say one should defer ordering, but I would suggest, rather, that the plants be procured and " heeled " in the soil in a shady, sheltered spot, there to remain until all signs of winter are past. Anotlier Advantage of planting late is that our Roses are largely enabled to escape May frosts. These, as is well known, cause much havoc among the excitable Roses, such as the Teas and some of the Hybrid Teas ; but if their growths are retarded by late planting they do not suffer, or, even if they do, it is of very little moment. Then, again, a modern Rose garden is frequently in full beauty in October, and how can one think of alterations while such a show of bloom abounds ! Are we not prone to wait until the winter evenings before we formulate our plans of renewal or extension ? There is yet one more advantage that may find favour with some individuals, and that is the fact of tempting bargains being offered by our Rose-growers in the spring months, a detail that will appeal to many. To make late planting successful, one must be extra careful of the Preparation of the Soil. We often see the ad\'ice given to amateurs to trench their soil u> the autumn, even if they cannot plant imtil the spring. This might be sound advice for those having a light soil, but for clayey loams it is a bad practice. I have found it much more prefer- able on my heavy soil to wait until such time as I am ready for planting. Thus, instead of having the beds or borders saturated with the winter rain and snow, by waiting until a favour- able moment for the preparation one may trench, and the planting follow immediately before the soil has a chance of becoming saturated. Nothing is so inimical to successful Rose culture as to be obliged to plant when the ground is of the consistency of soft putty. Preparation o£ the Plants. — It is important that Roses planted late should be pruned back hard either before or immediately after planting. It is also advisable that they should be in a dormant condition. Many growers dig up the plants and place them in beds, and they are kept moved, so that when sent out the eyes are dormant. At all times when planting Roses a shovelful of nice compost should be given to each plant, as this, being of a fine nature, will percolate among the fine roots, and if the latter are dipped in a bucket of water first and some of this fine soil is dredged upon them, successful planting is practically assured. Firm Planting is another very imperative detail. Not only should the soil be made firm at the time of planting, but, a week after, it is well to go over them again and set the heel against each plant. I would also advise that before placing the final covering of soil, a good watering should be given ; then, after the water has been allowed to pass down, the final soil placed in position, but no treading of the soil should follow at the time. .Although I am averse to mulching Roses planted in the autumn, I strongly advise a thin covering of well-rotted manure being applied immediately after the spring planting, partly to prevent that cracking of the soil by the drying winds of spring and partly to conserve the moisture. Peat moss litter would come in very useful here if not too strong. I fear many Roses are destroyed by giving them mulchings of strong manures before they have had time to establish themselves. On no account should powerful chemical manures be so applied. How Late May One Plant. — This depends largely upon the season, but, generally speaking, Roses from the open ground may be planted as late as the middle of April. After this time pot-grown plants shoidd be employed. It is an excellent plan, if beds of a kind are planted, to pot up a few reserve plants of each sort, in case of failures. Such pot plants may be sunk in the soil in their pots, and will prevent one having gaps in the Rose-beds during the summer. If any readers are contemplating exhibiting blooms from spring-planted Roses, I must warn them of probable disappointment ; but for all who desire a beautiful display for their garden, and especially for the coming autumn, I can assure them they will be well pleased if the foregoing details are followed. Reasonable care is, of course, necessary, but I think I have made it clear that those who wish to do so may safely plant beds of Roses during the next few weeks. Daneckoft. March 14, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 131 HARDY HEATHS. RETURNING to a subject which I some time ago endeavoured through the pages of The Garden, to bring as prominently as I could under the notice of its readers, I must, in the first place, admit that in the interval I have learned that hardy Heaths are by no means so fastidious in regard to soil and situation as was at one time thought ; indeed, from several letters I received appreciative of my former effort, the writers informed me that in their cases, and contrary to my advice, ■ they found many varieties of Heaths thriving well in stiff, heavy soils. One in particular, who seemed to, possess a large and full collection, assured me that his soil was a heavy, clayey one, and that the plants were thriving luxuriantly. I may here say that all my correspondents wrote from the Southern Counties of .England, so that, from the evidence given, one need not be deterred from forming a Heath garden simply because he does not possess a light, sandy soil or facilities for making a compost of peat resembling the soil in which these plants are generally found growing in their native habitat. The only drawback in regard to heavy soils would be that pro- pagation could not be so easily effected, and that a thorough system of drainage would require to be carried out before any measure of success could be at- tained. If we study for a short time the habits of our native Heather, Erica or Calluna vulgaris, it will be found growing both on the dry hillsides and in marshy places. In the latter, however, the Heather is always patchy and confined to little knolls over the bog. As we ascend, however, the plant becomes more scraggy and stunted, until, among bare, dry rocks, it ceases to gain a foothold, and fringes off with an odd plant here and there, attaining a height of only a few inches. On the upland flats, at a moderate elevation, where a good depth of black, peaty soil is found, one can wade through the Heather almost waist deep, showing that here are to be seen the most favour- able conditions for its growth, and those that must be copied to a certain extent if a full measure of success is expected. It is often a difficult matter to select a suitable position for the Heath garden, especially if the existing arrangements are of a formal character. It cannot very well be associated with beds of brilliant-flowering subjects such as are usually designated bedding-out plants, neither can these plants be dotted or clumped effectively in the herbaceous border. I have seen them, however, used with a fair measure of success on the margins of a large shrubbery, where they were quite in harmony with the flower- ing shrubs, and at another time on the boimdary line of an extensive rockery, where they were planted in groups with a huge, natural-looking boulder peeping out here and there, the whole arrangement being so cleverly executed that it was difficult to decide what really intervened between the actual rock garden with its alpine occupants and the wooded slope beyond ; but there are few places where a suitable spot could not be found for planting a collection of hardy Heaths. It may be abutting on some woodland walk, in an open glade surrounded by trees, or enclosed with a hedge having a rustic summer- house in one corner, or on a steep, sloping bank where the plants can be viewed either from a high or a low level. They must, however, have an open, airy situation and be free from the shade or influence of large trees. If the soil is poor, it can be improved by the addition of manure and leaf-mould, for while the Heath will grow and flower well on thin and almost barren soils, it responds readily to a more generous fare, and to ensure success it is advisable to provide a suit- able compost. Thus, a rich, heavy soil should THE SNAPDRAGON AS A GARDEN PLANT. FOR a long period in the nineteenth century the Snapdragon was regarded as a florist's flower, striped or barred, of which the finest form was one named Hendersonii. At the same time there was a strain now merged in the inter- mediate section, which was utilised in the furnish- ing of flower-beds, especially in those districts in which, owing to climatic disabilities, Geraniums could not be profitably employed. The finest of all the crimsons is still one that originated at Lord Ravensworth's very many years ago. Queen of the North and Yellow Perfection are varieties which also have been in cultivation for a lengthened period ; but the aesthetic colours, both in the tall and in the intermediate sections, which have A HEATH GARDE>1 ON A HtLL SIDE. have a considerable quantity of peat, leaf-mould and sand added and thoroughly mixed together. Light, sandy soils will only require the addition of a good dressing of well-decayed farmyard manure, but an open position is desirable what- ever the soil may be. The numerous and varied forms of hardy Heaths, their hardiness and long season of flowering, covering as it does almost every month of the year, entitle them to more than passing notice, and I hope that the present fashion for creating rock gardens will soon extend itself so as to embrace Heath gardens as well, the conditions as to site and exposure suitable for rock gardening being easily adapted to the requirements for forming a Heath garden. In my next article I propose dealing with a Heath garden at present in course of construction in the heart of the Grampians. Thomas Wilson. (To be continued.) made the Antirrhinums so popular, are wholly, or almost wholly, the production of the present century. There exists a certain degree of dissimilarity in the habit, and also in the flowers, of both of these sections, some of the intermediates being so tall as to almost merge into the tall section, of which there are varieties of comparatively low stature and weak constitution. There are in the flowers, broadly, two types, the one rather small and narrow, the other broad and about three times larger, and these, too, are of the tallest growth, sometimes attaining a height of 6 feet and even 7 feet, the white and yellow being, perhaps, the most vigorous of all. Along with the Tom Thumb section we have, therefore, a choice of Snap- dragons ranging in height from 6 inches to as many feet, with a marked dissimilarity of habit, and, along with a charming range of colours, a certain diversity of form. 132 THE GARDEN. [March 14, 1914 Raising Plants. — The plants are so easy of pro- duction that it need only be said that seeds for flowering the same year may be sown any time up to March, providing a smart temperature for germination is given, and afterwards growing them comparatively cool. The seedlings are apt to damp if wetted when small ; therefore, dipping the receptacles in water must be resorted to when the soil requires moistening, and, if damping occurs, some fire-dried sand should be sprinkled over the surfaces, which checks and usually stops the trouble. Pricking out the seedlings when quite small into boxes or frames also stays the progress of the mischief. At this stage the leaves of every plant should be examined, best on the under sides, and all rejected which vary from the majority, because the plants assuredly will, on flowering, turn out to be " rogues," and, of course, when planting in beds, any that have escaped notice at this examination will be set aside then. Varieties, or at least names, have increased to a perplexingly large extent within the last year or two, and for the beginner in their use it would be desirable to purchase from one seedsman only. I am growing this year some two dozen kinds of inter- mediate and tall derived from different sources, but most are well known already, and the remainder will be planted where any disabilities they may de- velop will not affect the general appearance of the garden. But no one can go wrong with, in tall varieties, White, Cloth of Gold, Golden Chamois, Fire King (or Orange King), Carmine Pink, Crimson and Gold, and Rosy Morn. These, I think, are the cream, though Moonlight, if pro- perly associated, may also be added. I know of no very good crimson, and grow crimson, scarlet, rose and a cream form of Rosy Morn from cuttings, none of these coming true enough from seed to give satisfaction. Of inter- mediates are Yellow Queen, Queen of the North (white). Car- mine Pink, and any pink, indeed, is worth growing, Bonfire (apri- cot), Light Apricot, Fire King (brighter than Orange King) and Oliver's Crimson, if it can be obtained. It should be noted that a gxoup of the old florists' type of variegated flowers is by no means to be despised. Arrangements of Colours. — Though easy enough to produce. Snapdragons are not quite so easy to arrange to be effective. This is on account of the colours clashing when a number are employed indiscriminately, or when associated with plants with which the colours do not go well. The tall white, with Dropmore Anchusa or Salvia patens, is really splendid, and Cloth of Gold associates equally well with Anchusa Opal, Golden Chamois and the dark blue Branching Larkspur, or with Lobelia cardinalis varieties is strikingly beautiful, while all the pink shades go with yellow, orange and mauve. But Snapdragons are never more charming than when used by themselves in colours properly matched. My own rule is to detach ptire white and yellow from the others ; not that they cannot be associated effectively enough, but I do not think they add anything to composi- tions equally, if not more, effective when either is absent ; but that, of course, may be a mere personal whim. Tall Golden Chamois, Carmine Pink and Light Pink with the intermediate Carmine Pink provide a very lovely combination. So do the apricot shades with Fire King, both tall ' and intermediate, and the series of pink shades along with the apricots is very nice, though I am rather dubious if the deep apricot of Bonfire were COLOURED PLATE. PLATE 1489. A NEW PERPETUAL-FLOWERING CARNATION. THE new Perpetual-flowering Carnation Gorgeous must be considered an epoch-making variety, for all who have seen it have been enraptured with it. It has a strong, clean, healthy growth, a wonderful stem, and a calyx which rarely bursts. The colour is of a rich glowing cerise n-ith the clearness of Aristocrat, but with none of this variety's weakness in its young state. When the flower is about half open, it has a yellowish, glistening sheen on its petals, which '^^ gives it a sunray cerise tone, and ^ under artificial light it stands alone for the brightness of its colourings, giving way to a glowing scarlet ; in short, we might quote a passage from Charles Kingsley's " Westward Ho " : " There is nothing like it under the canopy of Heaven." It has come to stop, and will be what Enchantress has been in the past. The honours awarded to this variety are an award of merit from the Perpetual Flowering Carnation Society, an award of merit from the Royal Horticultural Society, and certifi- cates of merit at Liverpool and Bristol. We are indebted to Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Bush Hill Park, Enfield, for the flowers from which our coloured plate has been prepared. SPRING SNOWFLAKES. One of the most delightful flowers now to be seen in the Royal Horti- cultural Society's Gardens at Wisley is the Spring Snowflake (Leucojum venium). It has naturalised itself in many places, and may be seen flowering among the Crocuses and Polyanthuses in the borders, or producing its drooping, bell-shaped flowers in out-of-the-way parts of the wild garden. One of the most pleasing effects is a carpet of Snowflakes flowering freely under the bare canes of a cultivated Rubus. CARPET OF SPRING SNOWFLAKE WISLEY. (leucojum vernum) at not better left out. As a rule, beds or borders furnished with Snapdragons should be filled entirely with them, an edge of another kind of plant always detracting from the value of the colour mass as a whole. I should add that, although we have Snap- dragons thriving on walls, to do them well requires very thorough and good cultivation. The finest I have ever seen were in Herefordshire, growing in made-up beds of turf and loam, in which some of the spikes rose to a height of 7 feet. A pigmy of 2 feet or 3 feet compared to these is simply nowhere, although it might perhaps appeal to some. R. P. Brotherston. CHINA ASTERS IN THE WOODLAND. The illustration on page 133 shows a picturesque grouping of the China Aster naturalised in grass under the partial shade of trees. The means whereby this effect was produced are somewhat curious, as it was the result of accidental sowing. The ground under the trees had been cleared and dug over preparatory to sowing it down with grass. By a misunderstanding among the workers, both grass and Aster seeds were sown over the same patch of ground. The result, however, is so pleasing and natural that it is worth noting, as it is a simple way of converting a waste piece of ground into a place of unusual splendour. The Asters were sown in .^pril, and flowered well through .August and September. Siif^f)leiiiciit to THE GARDEN, Ma)xli 14//1, 19 14, NEW PERPETUAL FLOWERING CARNATION GORGEOUS Hudson & Keartis Ltd.. Priniers, London, S.E. March 14, 1914-] THE GARDEN. 133 SIX BEAUTIFUL DWARF ANNUALS. A LTHOUGH the widely cultivated Stocks /% and Asters are very beautiful, I / % often wonder that some of the other / % half-hardy annuals are not more J^ *■ often met with in quantity. There seems to be in many quarters an antipathy against trying anything new, and the result is that we come across the same kinds of flowers year after year in gardens ; whereas, by having a little more variety, a much more inter- esting.^display would be forthcoming. The six kindsfl have selected are such as one seldom sees ture imtil growth is well started and the weather fairly settled, when they should be removed to a cold frame. Give abundance of air and harden ofi by the middle of May, when they ought to be planted out in fairly rich soil and in a sunny position. While all these annual (or biennial should I say ?) Pinks are beautiful and useful, I, personally, prefer a good strain of the Hedde- wigii type. Single and double are equally worthy of extended cultivation, and no garden should be without them. Dimorphotheca aurantiaca. — This compara- tively new plant, introduced from South Africa by Messrs. Barr, is a most telling bedder in a sunny season. I have grown it every year since its introduction, and it never fails to draw attention little else will grow, but it should have a position in full sunshine if it is to give of its best. Larkspur. — Although the dwarf forms of this grand plant can never compare with the tall, branching kinds, still, they are very valuable for small beds and for small gardens where space is at a premium. The dwarf Rocket Larkspur is so cheap that the seed may be sown where the plants are to bloom, and can then be thinned out to 4 inches or 5 inches apart. The dwarf Stock- flowered type is worth the trouble of raising in boxes and being treated like a half-hardy annual. Sow towards the end of March, for if raised too early the plants are apt to become unhealthy before the weather is favoxrrable for planting them out. Fairly rich, well-tilled soil should be given SINGLE CHINESE ASTERS IN AN OPEN WOODLAND. THESE' WERE THE RESULT OF ACCIDENTAL SOWING. in quantity in any garden, and it is in the hope of arousing a little interest in these beautiful flowers that I now write. I refer to Dianthus, Dimorphotheca, Jacobea, Larkspur, Nemesia and Phlox Drummondii. Dianthus (Pinks). — The Indian and Japanese Pinks, when a good strain is obtained and well grown, are hard to beat for filling small beds or borders and for cut flowers. Seed should be sown thinly in pans or boxes early in March and placed in gentle heat. The seeds germinate very rapidly, and care must be taken to prevent the little plants becoming drawn and weakly. Prick off into boxes of good soil as soon as large enough to handle, and return to the same tempera- from all visitors. Those who like mixed colours should grow the new hybrids, for they give some pretty shades besides white. Seed should not be sown before the middle of March, and the end of that month is not too late for it. Treat it exactly like Stocks in the way of sowing, pricking off, and subsequent treatment. Plant out at the end of May in good soil and in the sunniest spot available. Jacobea. — This Groundsel is usually classed as a hardy annual, but here in Scotland I find much the best results are obtained by treating it as half-hardy. Sow at the end of March, plant out towards the end of May in rather poor soil, and a really fine display of bloom will be forthcoming. This plant will often thrive where this plant, and if the position is exposed and staking necessary, then place the stakes at planting- time, for the roots of these Larkspurs are very easily damaged. Nemesia. — ^This is without a doubt the most beautiful of all dwarf annual flowers, and should be much more widely cultivated than it is at present. Many sow the seeds much too early, and also place the seed-pans in too high a temperature. Nemesia seeds will not germinate strongly nor freely in a temperature much over 60°, and the last week in March is the best time for sowing. Prick of! into boxes of fairly good soil and in good time, and do this with extra care, for the Nemesia in its earlier stages is rather delicate. When it 134 THE GARDEN. [March 14, 1914. starts fairly into growth, after being pricked off, all danger is past, and the plants should be kept near the glass in a moderate temperature. At the beginning of May remove to a cold frame, harden off gradually, and plant out early in June, choosing rich, deeply dug soil and a sunny aspect. WhUe the large-flowered form is verv rich and ' ROCK GARDEN PLANTS FROM SEED. A BRAN'CH of gardening alike interesting and profitable, and having special attractions for the amateur, whose delight it is to garden among rock plants, is found in raising these and kindred THYMUS ODORATJSSIMUS, A FRAGRANT PLANT FROM RUSSIA. THYMES ARE EXCELLENT FOR THE ROCK GARDEN AND MAY BE RAISED FROM SEED SOWN NOW. beautiful, I much prefer the dwarf hybrid strain of Messrs. Sutton. This firm has greatly improved the colours of this section of late years, and a bed or border filled with this grand Nemesia takes some beating. The plants branch so freely that about twelve inches asunder is the proper distance to plant if a really effective display is aimed at. The large-flowered type must be planted much closer, say, from 7 inches to 9 inches- Phlox DTUmmondU. — When well grown, this is only second to the Nemesia for beauty and effectiveness. The seed should be sown during the last week in February or early in March, and be gTo\vn steadily on in a slight warmth until the plants have reached a fair size. Phlox Drum- mondii is well known to be one of the easiest of all annuals to cultivate. Even in town gardens it will succeed, while it is usually one ot the first subjects to bring to the notice of children who show a fondness for garden flowers. Never- theless seed must be sown thinly and thinned early. For filling small beds or for making an edging for taller plants they are equally effective. Soil of a fairly rich nature gives the best results. All the sections are good, but for general usefulness the intermediate is preferable. If a really fine strain of this is procured, a grand display is certain. C. Blair. Preston House Gardens, Linlithgow. subjects from seed. It is hardly possible to overrate the amount of healthy recreation this delightful pursuit affords ; it yields an enormous amount of information that cannot be acquired otherwise, while it furnishes a splendid stock of plants, either as the nucleus of a collection or for augumenting that already in existence. The actual procedure in the raising of alpines from seed does not materially differ from that practised with the choicer kinds of annuals of a tender or half- hardy nature, except that they entail more atten- tion to details in the initial stages. Best Time for Sowing. — The spring months offer the best season in which to start, as this gives a long growing season and enables plants of a presentable size to be obtained before the ensuing winter. Proper Soil. — The method I generally follow is to sow in pots, pans or shallow boxes, according to the rarity of the variety. The receptacles are provided with liberal drainage and partly filled with a moderately coarse compost consisting of yellow loam, leaf-soil and sand in equal parts, this being passed through a half-inch sieve to complete filling the receptacles. The seed-bed should be quite level, and, as many of the seeds are very small, they scarcely want covering at all, while the larger seeds, like those of Androsace, Dianthus and Iberis, will bear covering to a depth of an eighth of an inch. Watering the Seeds. — To those unversed in watering fine seeds with water-pot and rose, a safe method to employ imtil the seedlings are large enough to handle is to stand the pots and pans almost to the rim in a tub of water ; by this means the seed is not displaced, as may readily follow from the careless use of a water-pot. After sowing, place the seed-pans in an ordinary greenhouse or in a frame upon a slow hot -bed, and cover over with a square of glass. This hastens germination, and, as the seedlings appear, gradually tilt the glass cover ing to admit air till, eventually, it can be dispensed with altogether. Treatment of Seedlings.— Once germination takes place, the seedlings must be kept well to the light, and from this stage onward an unheated garden frame will give the best results, using sun-heat alone to main- tain a growing temperature. When the seedhngs are large enough to handle, they are pricked out into pans or boxes, using a compost as advised for seed-sowing, to which one part of rough grit is added. In pricking out and aU subsequent pot- . ting, keep the soil moderately firm, otherwise growth will be coarse and sappy and the plants wUI give more trouble in hardening them off for per- manent planting outside. Once the plants come to a fair size — in the case of the more robust kinds this will be some time in June, if sowm during March — they may be potted singly and then plunged in nursery rows or in beds of coal-ashes. This method reduces the amount of attention necessary to keep them supplied with moisture, and it ensures stocky, hard- SUBJECTS grown plants, such as rarely fail to give satisfaction when used in the permanent scheme of the garden. Seeds Remaining Dormant. — Many kinds of alpines, among which Primulas, Gentians and some Saxifrages may be cited as examples, lie dormant some time after sowing, and where this occurs the seed-pots must be kept nicely moist, with the glass covering on, until either germination takes place or it is seen that the seed is useless. Some Primulas and Gentians, however, will germinate after being sown twelve months. Ramondia is typical of a class of alpine that exacts much care the first season ; the seed is so small that the tendency is to sow too thickly, and, as it is usually several months before it is even possible to pick up the seedlings, much less handle them, the necessity for sowing thinly becomes obvious. The great majority of the rock and alpine plants that can be raised from seed will flower in the year following that in which they were sown. These include .^ithionemas, Alyssum, Androsace, Anemone, Arenaria, Aster alpinus. Campanulas, Dianthus, Drabas, Erinus, Geranium, Gypsophila, Hutchinsia, Hypericum, Iberis, Leontopodium, Lithospermum, Phyteuma, Primula, Saponaria, Sedum, Silene, Tunica, Veronica, Viola and Wahlenbergia. Among those that do not flower till a later period, besides the exceptions already noted, are Lithospermum Gastoni. Ramondia, Thymus, Gentians and Saxifragas like burseriana, lantoscana and longifolia. Thomas Smith. Cnnmbe Court Gardens, Kingston, Surrey. March 14, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 135 THE JAPANESE OR CAPE PLUMS. CAN THEY BE GROWN IN THIS COUNTRY ? * MONG the foreign fruits which invade /% our markets at the present season, / % one of the newest comers is the A~'^% Cape Plum. Tliis fruit so differs ^ ^ from the Plums commonly known in this country that many curious . legends are current as to its origin. The matter, however, is wrapt in no mystery and is of great interest, as these Plums are among the newest fruits wliich we owe to Eastern Asia, and their culture in America is already great. The wild species from which this race is developed is Prunus triflora, a native of China, and its garden varieties are there cultivated in a rather haphazard way. When imported into Japan it gave rise to very many new varieties, of which the nomenclature is, unfortunatelj', very uncertain. The pointed varieties are grouped under the name Hattankio, and the round ones Botankio, while the general name for these Plums as a whole is Sumomo. Some seventy-seven varieties are named in a list before me, a few of which are now known in many parts of the world. About the year 1870, American growers began to interest themselves in this fruit, and importa- tions were made, notably by John Kelsey of Berkerley, Cahfomia. A perfect boom in Japanese Plums then began, and new sorts were imported and seedlings raised, and the nomenclature was soon in a state of the wildest confusion. The fruits themselves, however, prospered, and have now become a large and important sovurce of fruit supply in the United States. From America they were imported to the Cape, where the climate suits them admirably, and they thus reached our shores by a roundabout route, gathering on the way yet another name, " Cape " Plums. The principal varieties now grown are Botan, or Abundance as it is t^ more generally known in America ; Burbank, a Japanese variety renamed after the much-advertised raiser of I \v\J. fruits and flowers in California ; -- - •' Chabot, Hale, Kelsey, Maru and Shiro. Wickson, a large and excel- -^ lent fruit, is the result of a cross' between P. triflora and P. Simonii, also a native of China. As to the adaptability of these fruits to the English climate, experi- ments so far lend no hope to this possibility. Burbank has fruited occasionally, but all the other sorts are too tender in most places for open-air culture unless on a wall. The extreme earliness of the blossom is often, too, a cause of failure, both on account of severe weather and the lack of insects for pollenising. It is stated in America that the Myrobalan (Prunus myrobalana) or Cherry Plum is a good poUeniser for all the Japanese Plums, and where one sort only is grown, a plant of this would be valuable, as it flowers at the same time. Under cool orchard house cul- ture, however, these Plums succeed admirably, and the fruit is extremely good both to eye and palate. The best sorts for this culture are, as far as I have tried, Burbank, a beautiful, trans- parent, round fruit ; Botan, a pointed fruit, large, dark red and extremely rich ; Shiro, pale creamy yel- low, remarkably juicy ; and Wickson, an enormous, pointed, rich crimson fruit. A remarkable feature of all these Plums is the extraordinary amount of blossom produced. Burbank is often so thickly set with bloom that it is literally impossible to see the wood for the flowers. The resulting crop, however, is not usually more than normal. In conclusion, these fruits can be highly recom- mended for glass culture. They should be tried on walls, and in the warmer parts of this island they would probably succeed as standards or pyramids in the open. Maidstone. E. .-K. Bunyarp. SEASONABLE NOTES ON VEGETABLES. Parsnips. — Owing to the continuous rains during February, the sowing of Parsnip seed was delayed. No time should now be lost in doing this work. Deeply trenched soil that has been previously manured for a former crop is the best. With an iron bar make holes 3 feet deep, filling the holes with a compost of fine gritty soil. Sow two seeds in each hole, the holes 15 inches to 18 inches apart, the rows 2 feet wide. This method prevents the roots becoming crooked, as they often are in stony soil without this special preparation. Turnips. — Sow a pinch of seed of White Milan in a frame on a slight hot-bed to give an early supply of small roots. On a warm, sheltered border sow in drills in prepared soil, also a pinch of seed of Red Milan, as, with genial weather in April, nice roots may soon be obtained. Celery. — For use in August and September seed should now be sown quite thinly in boxes in sandy soil in a temperature of about 55°. Directly the seedlings are up, place the boxes on a shelf near the glass, so that the growth made shall be of a stocky character. If the plants become drawn owing to overcrowding or too much heat, they are quickly ruined, and it is a waste of time to continue their growth. Giant White and Aldenham Pink are good varieties. Rhubarb. — An open site, with ample space between the roots for full leaf development, and a deeply trenched and heavily manured soil are the salient conditions necessary to ensure success. Plant single crowns just under the surface 4 feet apart, and as much or more between the rows. After planting, fork over the ground among the plants, and mulch lightly with half-decayed stable manure. Royal Albert for forcing. The Sutton for general growth, with Champagne and Victoria for ordinary use, are desirable varieties. Tomatoes should be sown at intervals as space can be found under glass for the plants. The chief point is to avoid overcrowding. Grow the plants near the glass to avoid weakness, and pot on as required. Many failures with Tomatoes in the open can be traced to faulty management of the plants, especially in sowing too late, which does not enable the plants to be large enough at planting-time. The middle of March is a good time to sow seed for outdoor growth. The plants should be vigorous, of full size, and thoroughlv hardy when put out. Should they show signs of turning yellow owing to being pot-bound pre- vious to planting, give them liquid maniure freely. Sunrise for indoor growth and Holmes' Supreme for outside are good. Dobbie's Golden Drop is an excellent small-berried yellow sort for outdoors. Spinach is such an increasingly favourite vegetable that more encouragement should be given it. Frequent small sowings are better than THE CAUCASIAN CATCHFLY (SILENE SCHAFTA) GROWN FROM SEED. 136 THE GARDEN. [March 14, 1914. those larger and less often. On a warm, sunny border the first sowing should be made ; after- wards, between rows of Peas and Runner Beans. Round-seeded and The Carter are desirable varieties, with The Victoria for a main crop. Potatoes. — Now is a good time to make the first plantation of May Queen, Sharpe's Victor and Myatt's .■\shleaf for the earliest crop. At the foot of a south wall or on a warm, sloping border is the best site. The tubers having been sprouted previously in a cool place, plant them 15 inches apart in rows 2 feet wide, covering the tubers with a prepared sandy compost in which decayed leaves figure freely. Too much attention cannot be paid to the sprouting of the tubers in a cool and dry place. Neglect in this direction may lead to disappointment. Radishes should be con- tinuously sown at brief intervals in Potato, Carrot or Asparagus forcing-frames. An outside sow- ing on a warm border should be made, covering the bed with straw to encourage early germina- tion of the seed and to protect the tiny plants, as they peep through the soil, from birds of the linnet type. Peas. — A sowing in the open of such varieties as The Pilot, Edwin Beckett or Sutton's Early Giant should be made, covering the seeds with decayed leaf-mould or old potting soil, which encourages quicker root action than the ordi- nary soil, which is still cold. Swanmore. E. Molyneux. PEAS: CULTURAL HINTS. GOOD, fresh Peas are generally a p p r e - ciated, and every pains should be taken to produce these in the best possible condition over as long a period as possible. Thanks to those who have given so much time and trouble during recent years to hybridising and selecting so many varieties, both early, midseason and late, much less trouble will be ex- perienced than was the case only a few years ago. Undoubtedly it is much easier to have good Peas for the table from the middle of June to the end of the second week in July than at later dates, and almost everyone possessing a garden has little difficulty in having them at this season. By the time these hues are in print the seeds will have been sown and be well on the way for the early crops, and my remarks on this occasion are intended principally for successional crops. The garden Pea is a deep-rooted subject, and during spells of drought will penetrate deeply in search of food and moisture if such soil be made amenable, so that in all cases the ground should be broken up at least 3 feet in depth, placing plenty of good farmyard manure in the bottom of the trench.- This work is best done during the winter or early spring. Unquestionably j done just as thick again as it is intended for the the best method is to prepare trenches precisely ! plants to remain, which should be thinned out in the same way as one would for Celery, and as soon as the young plants arc 2 inches or 3 inches especially so for late varieties and on dry, porous in height. Naturally, the strongest and tallest soils ; the application of manure and other growing kinds require more room than those of suitable compost is rendered much more easy, | less robust habit ; but in nearly all cases of the as well as being much more convenient for watering better kinds of Peas the plants should not be left purposes. Such trenches should always be pre- | thicker than 3 inches apart. Always sow two pared, when possible, some weeks previous to the i lines in a trench, and, where mice and other seed-sowing ; the soil thus becomes sweetened vermin abound, the seed should be rubbed in rde lead and allowed to dry before using. .^t the same time, means should be taken to trap mice or rats. It is always wise to set some tempting baited traps for mice, whether they are known to exist or not. At the time of solving, a little bone-meal should be sprinkled along after the seed is sown ; this will prove a splendid stimu- lant. Care should be taken to protect the young growths from the ravages of birds immediately they appear above the ground. This is best done by straining tliree lines of black cotton about four inches above the surface of tlie ground. Staking. — As soon as about four inches of growth is made, staking should be proceeded with. Though there are several inventions for supporting Peas, I have not yet come across anything to super- sede, or even equal, ordinary brushy wood stakes. This task should be carried out in a pleasing and worlonanlike manner, thrust- ing the ends well into the ground sufficient to withstand any wind pressure. The tops should be taken off and placed between the stakes, with a view to conducting the tendrils to the larger stakes. To ensure a regular supply during the late summer, sowings should be made at intervals from this date to the middle of June. Mulching. — I regard this as of the greatest importance on all kinds of soil, nothing being better for the purpose than short stable litter. It has a wonderful influence, of prolong- ing the crop, especially during spells of dry weather. Watering. — The plants will be much benefited by applying frequent drenchings of water to the roots, both clear and in a liquid maniure form, during dry spells, always using water, if possible, which has been exposed. It is equally as important and beneficial to syringe or damp the growths tlioroughly after a hot day with clean tepid water ; this is best done in the early evening. When extra large pods are required, either for exhibition or other purposes, the growths should be stopped, side shoots cut away and the pods thinned. Varieties. — Though, as before stated, there are many excellent varieties, I propose to give a short list of what I believe to be among the very best and in their order of sowing : Duke of Albany, Prodigy, Alderman, Stourbridge Marrow, Quite Content, Centenary, Gladstone, Rearguard, Master- piece and Autocrat. Enwi.v Bkckett, V'.M.ll. THE SAME BED AS SHOWN ON THE OPPOSITE PAGE, SHOWING THE EFFECT OF SOWING CANDYTUFT BETWEEN DARWIN. TULIPS. and in a much more workable condition than when left till the last moment, though sometimes this cannot be avoided owing to the ground being occupied. Sowing the Seed. — In the large majority of cases the seed is sown much too thicldy, the result being anything but satisfactory. I am convinced that there are far more failures due to this cause tlian to any other. In many cases one will see rows of Peas left almost as thick as Mustard and Cress, and expected to produce a crop. Surely if one would only give it a thought, it is unreasonable to expect a dozen plants to succeed when one would suffice, the result being that the plants become starved and in many cases eaten up with mildew, and, after a picking or two, the plants become exhausted. The best plan is to sow the seed singly at regular intervals, and this should be March 14, 191 4.] THE GARDEN. 13^ GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. ANNUAL FLOWERS IN ASSOCIATION WITH OTHER PLANTS. TO tho heginner in gardening, especially if liis or her garden is of small size, there are few more useful flowers than hardy annuals, and few that will give such a bountiful return for a small outlay of time and money. Indeed, these annuals, which may be sown in the open garden, may be looked upon as a sort of sheet-anchor for the novice, to (ill up blank spaces where perhaps some more ambitious gardening scheme has gone awry, or to fill the hiatus caused by the passing of spring-flowering perennials or bulbous plants. The gardener in a large establishment can rely upon pot plants or nursery stock to make good these gaps, but the beginner can seldom afford this, and still less frequently has the facilities for carrying it into effect. Too often, bulbs, especially the May-flowering Tulips, are a source of great worry to the amateur. Owing to their late flowering and subsequent ripening of the foliage, they cannot with safety be removed from beds or borders sufficiently early to admit of the planting of the ordinary bedding plants, and for this reason many forego the pleasure that these bulbs are capable of providing and ban them from their gardens. This is a great mistake, and one that can easily be obviated if we would make more use of hardy annuals. Early in April seeds of these can be sown between the bulbous plants, and, by the time the latter have finished flowering and the leaves have died down, the annuals will be well on the road towards the flowering stage, and the bulbs none the worse for the association. Even beds of Daffodils may be successfully treated in this way, and if the bulbs are lifted in early autumn, before they have made extensive new root growth, and replanted at once, they will be in much better condition than if they were lifted this spring, before their foliage had properly ripened, to make way for the usual Fuchsias, Calceolarias and Zonal Pelar- goniums that are so often relied upon for the summer display. It is true that these bedding plants commence to flower almost as soon as they are planted, and that the annuals seldom commence before July ; but the four weeks or so that the beds or border spaces are without blossoms is not noticed in a garden of mixed flo%vers. It is mentioned to prevent possible disappointment to would-be growers of annuals. Apart from those kinds which can be sown between the bulbs or spring-flowering perennials, there are many half-hardy sorts that may be raised in frame or greenhouse and planted out between the permanent occupants during the early days of May. Into this category come Antirrhinums, China .\sters, Stocks, Nemesias and Verbenas, ail of which are capable of providing a glorious riot of colour during the late summer and autumn days. There are just one or two simple cultural details that ought to be observed if success is to be assured with this association of annuals with perennial and bulbous plants. First of all, the soil needs some little preparation, especially if seeds are to be sown. I have always found it .idvisable to of space from the ontset. A weak seedling can never make a sturdy plant ; hence it is neces- sary to lay a good foundation. This thin sowing, then, must be supplemented by a rigorous thinning of the seedlings at the outset of their existence. This is necessary even when annuals are being grown alone, but doubly so when in association with other plants. Just one other item. It will not materially harm the bulbs or herbaceous plants if just a few, a very few, of their largest leaves are removed to give the annuals more light and air during the early stages of their career. To bulb enthusiasts this will, I know, seem like rank heresy ; but in gardening, as in everything else, it is advisable at times to adopt a policy of give-and-take. There are a good many hardy annuals suitable for this associa- tion, such as Candytuft, Godetias, Clarkias, Virginian Stock, Mig- nonette, Alyssum, Leptosiphon, Nigella Miss Jekyll, Larkspurs, Shirley Poppies, annual Chrysan- themums, scarlet and bhie Flax, and Pot Marigolds. The accom- panying illustration may be of interest, as it represents a bed of Darwin Tulips edged with old- fashioned Pinks, and a plant of perennial Candytuft in the fore- ground. On the opposite page is an illustration of the same bed, from a photograph taken in the month of August. The Candytuft shown there was sown between the Tulips as advised, and the charming effect will readily be seen. H, H. A GOOD ANNUAL FOR THE GREENHOUSE. Browallia speciosa major is such a pleasing little plant under quite ordinary cultivation that I wonder it does not become more popular. It is of the Solanacea Order and is almost hardy, but succeeds best when growing in the greenhouse or conservatory. The seed should be sown during March in shallow pans or boxes in a compost of equal parts of turfy loam, leaf-mould and sand, and kept near the glass. Pot up as necessary with a good fertile soil, shading from very bright sunshine. Some cultivators advise pinching the plants occasionally during the growing season, but lightly point between the plants with a small ; this I never do, as I think they are more graceful fork, so as to get about two inches of fine, workable , when left to grow quite naturally. Each \vinter soil. Into this some superphosphate of lime, my greenhouse is brightened with groups of these A BED OF DARWIN TULIPS EDGED WITH PINKS. ON THE OPPOSITE PAGE THE SAME BED IS SHOWN FILLED WITH CANDYTUFT, SOWN BETWEEN THE TULIPS. a large handful to a square yard, is well worked, as this provides food of a lasting character to the annuals just at their flowering period. Then, thin sowing is absolutely essential. Sturdy seed- lings only are of an)» use for this kuid of garden- charming plants and their pretty blue flowers. Other good species of Browallia are B. grandiflora, which is also very pretty, with much smaller flowers than B. s. major, and B. Jamesonii, better known as Streptosolen Jamesonii, which has orange- ing, or, indeed, for any other ; hence one must coloured flowers and grows considerably taller than impress upon the beginner the vital importance the two before-mentioned varieties. T- T. D. 138 THE GARDEN. [March i_i, 1014. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR SOUTHER.N GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. Fig Trees in Pots. — Trees which were started in December should now be making good progress, and wUl require some stimulant to assist them in swelling their fruit. Guano is a very reliable manure for this purpose, but must be given in moderation. Pinch the shoots when a few inches long to encourage the growth of a second crop of fruit. Syringe the trees twice daily and shut the house early in the afternoon. A night tempera- ture of 60° will be quite high enough, rising to 70° by day with sun-heat. Peach Trees in Pots. — The earliest trees are now swelling their fruits, and should be watered with great care. If they are once allowed to become too dry at the roots, the prospect of a satisfactory crop will be much reduced. When the stoning period is over, liberal supplies of manure-water should be given. The final disbudding may now take place, leaving two or three well-placed shoots on each branch, some of which may afterwards be pinched to a few eyes from the base. Melons. — If these are to be grown in flat pits or frames, no time should be lost in making up the hot-bed, which may be composed of two-thirds Oak leaves and the remainder of stable manure. The leaves create a mild and lasting bottom-heat, which is indispensable in the production of Melons in unheated pits or frames. In making up the beds for wooden frames, the material should be at least 3 feet larger than the frame, in order to allow a good quantity of fermenting material to be placed round the box when necessarj'. The soil may consist of turfy loam and a good sprinkling of old lime rubble. This should be placed in the pit several days before the plants are ready to put out. The mounds of soil should be at least 15 inches deep, and when warmed through should be made firm by treading. When two rough leaves have been produced, the plants should be carefully put out and the soil made firm. When growth commences, the tops should be pinched out and four shoots taken from each plant, and, trained on the surface of the bed, these will in due time produce numerous side shoots, on which the young Melons will appear. The Flower Garden. Border Chrysanthemums. — If the stools of these were lifted in November and placed in a cold pit, there should be no difficulty in finding plenty of sturdy cuttings now. If these are inserted in small pots of sandy soil and stood in a close, cold pit, they will soon make roots. Three cuttings may be placed rotmd the edge of a 3-inch pot, and when sufficiently rooted they may be raised quite close to the roof glass and gradually hardened for planting at the beginning of May. Seed-Sowing, — ^There should be no delay in sowing seeds of French and African Marigolds, China Asters, Ten-week Stocks, Phlox Drum- mondii. Zinnias, Dimorphotheca amrantiaca, Dianthus and Rhodanthe. All of these may be sown in a cold pit quite near the glass, and should be pricked off as soon as large enough to handle. Primrose and Polyanthus seeds should now be sown in the open border or in a cold frame to pro- duce plants for flowering next spring. These should be transplanted 6 inches apart as soon as large enough. Bedding Geraniums. — If the stock is at a short, no time should be lost in taking cuttings. If placed in 2j-inch pots and stood on a bed of fine ashes over a gentle hot-bed, they will soon make roots, and may then be potted into 4-inch pots. Coleus, Iresine, Alternanthera, Lobelia and Ageratum should be propagated as soon as possible, so that good, strong plants may be available by the middle of May. Dahlias. — Early struck cuttings should not be allowed to become stunted for want of potting ; but, as soon as sufficiently rooted, they should be potted into 5-inch pots and grown in a temperature of 50° quite near the glass. When established, air should be freely admitted. Cuttings may still be taken and placed in _brisk bottom-heat. Tuberous Begonias. — The tubers of these should now be started into growth. If placed in shallow trays and stood in a warm house, they will soon make young growth, and sliould at this stage be potted singly into 5-inch pots in a compost of loam and leaf-soil in equal parts. Water carefully until the plants are established. After this stage air must be admitted in sufficient quantity to keep the plants stocky. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Alpine Strawberries. — If fruits of these are required during September and October, the plants may be raised from seed now. If sown in pans or boxes and placed in a temperature of 50°, the young plants wUl soon appear. Prick them into ' small pots when large enough and grow in a cold pit quite near the roof glass. These seedlings should be ready to plant out in May. Figs. — The pruning and nailing of Fig trees on south walls should be finished as soon as possible. Let the old wood be well thinned out. leaving as many short-jointed shoots as possible without crowding. Figs are liable to make too much soft growth unless planted ir; restricted borders ; but this may easily be avoided by building rough underground walls when the trees are planted. It is advisable to protect the trees from early spring frost by blinds. The Kitchen Garden. Peas which have been raised under glass for planting on a south border should be gradually hardened. The plants may now be fully exposed during the day by the removal of the lights. When sufficiently hard, they should be carefully planted out, and protected from cold wind by evergreen branches placed along the sides of the rows. Young Pea Plants raised in the open garden will now be ready for sticks. Let these be placed in position with as little delay as possible. Onions and Leeks sown in the early part of the year should now be ready for transplant- ing into boxes, and be allowed 3 inches or 4 inches between the plants each way. Keep close for a short time, and when established they should be freely ventilated in order to prepare them for planting out in the middle of April. Celery. — Seeds should now be sown for the principal batch of Celery. Very little heat will be necessary if so%vn in boxes and placed in a slightly heated pit until the plants are through the surface. They may then be removed to a cold pit quite near the roof glass and protected from frost. The early batch of plants should now be ready for pricking into boxes of fine rich soil. These should be steadily grown without a check, and never allowed to suffer from the want of water at the roots. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Cauliflowers. — Plants that have been wuitered in cold frames will perhaps be all the better for being planted out now if the weather is at all suitable. This will make room for other plants requiring protection. It will, however, be well to protect the young plants with some Spruce twigs. These will serve the double purpose of giving shelter and acting as a protection agamst game, particularly pheasants. A slight dusting of lime or soot will ward off slugs. Onions. — Autumn-sown Onions may now be planted out, and if space is limited, they may be planted between the rows of some permanent crop, such as a new plantation of Strawberries. This crop of Onions will generally be found to be of great value when one has difficulty in getting the spring-sown Onions to ripen early enough. Potatoes. — Another planting of early Potatoes may be got in, but in cold districts it will be better to wait luitil towards the end of the month before planting maincrop varieties. Turnip-Rooted Beet, — Where one is expected to have a supply of early Beet for salads, I find it is a capital plan to make a sowing of the Turnip- rooted variety in frames about this date. They are much earlier than the long ones, and can be used when quite small. In* growing in frames, care should he taken to give plenty of air, unless on ver\' cold days, as Beet resents coddling. Tomatoes. — For those who only grow one soon as they are ready, and at this stage avoid cold draughts. The Flower Garden. Hollyhocks. — Where these are grown from seed sown last month, they will now be ready for pricking out, and for this I would advise doing so into small pots in preference to boxes. To have them in bloom in the autumn, they ought to be kept growing steadily in heat for some time yet and potted on when required. They will amply repay any extra care bestowed on them al this stage, as well-growai plants treated as annuals are seldom attacked by the Hollyhock rust. Cosmos. — The new early flowering varieties of this fine annual are particularly effective dotted among the herbaceous plants. If sown now, pricked into frames and planted out as soon as they are ready, they will bloom continuously from the end of June till frost cuts them down. Seed-Sowing. — For general purposes most half- hardy annuals may now be sown ; but it will be wise to save a pinch of seed of each in case of faUure. This may be sown a fortnight hence, when it is just possible that the plants will come in very handy in case of shortage. Nigella. — Although usually treated as a hardy annual, I prefer to treat this as half-hardy and make two sowings, one now, and another towards the end of the month. The variety Miss Jekyll is a great favourite. The flowers are produced in great profusion among the graceful foliage, and where cut flowers are in demand I find it stands cutting splendidly. Stock Empress Augusta Victoria. — ^This tall, branching Stock is possibly one of the best lavender kinds in commerce. Last season I saw a long border planted entirely with this variety, and it was a sight not soon to be forgotten. It may be so\\'n now and brought on gently, and in planting out give it at least 15 inches to 18 inches between the plants. Plants Under Glass. Coleus. — These free-growing plants, so indis- pensable for furnishing and decorative purposes, are as popular to-day as ever. Cuttings may now be taken from stock plants and rooted in brisk heat. These wUl root in about a fortnight. No difficulty need be experienced in obtaining the necessary stock, as those rooted cuttings can be cut over to provide another batch. Seed may also be sow'u at this time, and if the majority of the seedlings are found to be rather coarse, one is always sure to get one or two that are really worth growing. Petunia. — This old greenhouse favourite is not now so much in evidence as it ought to be. considering its attractiveness. This cannot, of course, be accounted for by any difficulty in its cultivation, as that, surely, is of the simplest. Cuttings rooted now will make very fine plants in an incredibly short space of time. Seed sown now will also produce very good plants in the autumn. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Reducing Flowers of Pears. — As Pears usually show an abnormal crop of flower-buds, I think it is a good practice to go over the trees and reduce these just before they open. Tliis will give those that are left a better chance to set. This, at any rate, might be done with the better varieties, as Pears are usually grown on a south or west wall, with, in some cases, a projecting coping, which has a tendency to keep the trees dry at the root. In such situations it will be well to see that they are fairly moist at the roots, as if allowed to become dry at this stage the flowers would most certainly fail to set. The same remarlis apply equally to all wall trees Raspberries. — These will now be starting into growth. The tips of the shoots may be somewhai shortened, and recent plantations should he cut back to within 6 inches of the ground. John Highgate. (Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.) tiopeloun Gardens, South Queensferry, N.B- March 14, ±914.] THE GARDEN. 139 BULBS FOR SPRING PLANT- ING OUTSIDE. So much accustomed are gardeners and amateurs to ordering their bulbs and tubers in autumn that many are liable to overlook the fact that it is possible, and even advisable, to obtain some of these in spring for planting at that time. Many of them require to be lifted in late autumn and stored until spring. It is unnecessary to enlarge upon this point, and also to speak of such subjects as Liliums, Galtonias, Gladioli, Montbretias, Begonias, Tigridias and other well- known bulbs frequently planted, and upon whose culture separate articles appear from time to time. The bulbs, corms or tubers mentioned here can still be purchased, and may be planted in March or April. The Agapanthus, although almost outside our sphere, may be mentioned as good for spring planting in the open. Planted deeply and the foliage left on all the winter as a natural protec- tion, it is hardy even in the South of Scotland. A. minor mooreanus is by far the hardiest variety. Albuca Nelsonii, which has white flowers tinted with red, is hardly ever seen, though in warm climates it may be left out all the winter with but slight protection. Plant 4 inches deep in a sunny place. A few Alliums are obtainable in spring, and the best of these is probably A. pedemontanum, with rose- coloured flowers. It is hardy if planted 2 inches or 3 inches deep. Spring is the best time for planting the magnificent Alstrcemerias. They should never be less than 6 inches or 9 inches deep, and a foot is not too much. The hardiest are A. aurantiaca, with its lighter-coloured varieties ; A. chilensis and its varieties, and A. psittacina. I^ess hardy, but very beautiful, are A. pelegrina and A. p. alba. Those who admire the noble Belladonna Lily (Amaryllis Belladonna) may be reminded that this is a good time to plant the bulbs from 9 inches to 12 inches deep at the foot of a greenhouse or south wall. It is quite hardy there. Anemone coronaria may still be planted for late blooms. A delightful little bulb not often met with, and hardy enough to plant now and lift iu the autumn, is the blood red Anomatheca omenta. It looks best in half-shade, and should be planted 2 inches deep. Antholyzas are striking plants, with big plaited leaves and spikes of red and yellow flowers. A. paniculata is hardy, and A. crocosmoides is nearly so. Plant 6 inches to 9 inches deep in a sunny place. Both flower in the autumn. The singular Arisaemas attract some people, and may be planted now. Asclepiases may still be planted, and A. tuberosa is the best, although not a great success in the North. Plant 4 inches deep. The charming Mexican Coral Drops (Bessera elegans), with scarlet and white flowers, may be grown in light soil if planted 3 inches deep. Lift in the autumn and store in dry sand. The climbing Boussingaultia baselloides, with small white flowers, does well on warm trellises, planted 6 inches deep. Bravoa geminiflora (the Twin Flower) is a beauty with its orange red flowers, and should be planted 3 inches deep in a sunny place and lifted in the autumn. Chlidanthus fragrans, with sweet-scented, yellow, funnel-shaped flowers, is not quite hardy, but may be planted 3 inches deep and lifted in the autumn. Commelina coelestis, blue, is nearly hardy, and may be planted 3 inches or 4 inches 'deep in light soil. Though fully open in the evening, the white Cooperia Drummondii does well in many places if planted 3 inches deep in a sunny place and lifted in the autumn. Crinums would require an article to themselves. For permanent planting the best are C. longi- foliimi (capense) and its varieties, C. Powellii and its varieties. Even C. Moorei and C. yemense are found hardy by some. Plant the Crinums about a foot deep. Cypellas are good for spring planting. Planted 3 inches deep, C. Herbertii, deep yellow, and Cypella or Pohlia platensis, blue and orange, are charming. Lift in the autumn. Eucomises may still be planted ; E. punctata is the hardiest, standing the winter in light soil in many places. Geranium atlanticum is a tuberous Crane's-bill for spring plantuig, but is hardy. Incarvilleas, now so popular, may be planted with success. I. Delavayi, I. brevipes and I. grandiflora are the hardiest. Hymenocallises are lovely bulbs to plant in the spring and lift in the autumn. H. Amancaes, yellow, and H. lit- toralis, white, may be planted in a sunny place 9 inches deep and protected in the winter. The white, August-flowering Milla biflnra, half- hardy, does nicely 3 inches deep in a sunny place. The Pancratiums are exquisite. The hardiest is P. illyricum, but P. maritimum is almost hardy. Both have white flowers, and can be planted 9 inches deep. Rigidella immacu- lata, scarlet, may have the same treatment as the Tigridias. Tropaeolum tuberosum, which is hardy if planted 8 inches or 9 inches deep, is a beautiful climber with scarlet and yellow flowers. The Zephyranthuses are exquisite, Z. Candida being the hardiest, and if planted 4 inches deep at the foot of a greenhouse wall, will thrive. Z. Atamasco. white ; Z. carinata, rose ; and Z. sulphurea, yellow and copper, are pretty if lifted and stored in the wmter. s. Arnott. POISONOUS PLANTS. The number of vegetable poisons is very large, and a striking feature about them is that they are frequently found in plants which belong largely to natural orders associated with health rather than with death. This is strikingly shown in our own country, as well as iu lands more associated with deadly vegetation, and it is a fact which may well call for comment. If, as it is supposed, plants develop strong-smelling or dangerous pro- perties in order to ward off their foes, why do not the harmless members of the order do the same ? Why are a few Beans — notably the deadly Calabar — so harmful that it is imsafe to purchase foreign beau-meal, while most of the plants of this large and splendid order of plants are designed for man's use ? One or two of the Vetches are other instances. It is diflictilt to say. It is true that some harmless plants belonging to poisonous families have rather characteristic, and not very reassiuring smells, which seem to connect them with an evil ancestry, but probably this wears off somewhat with cultivation (and tends to confirm what has been said about harmless plants), just as the poisonous nature of some plants undoubtedly gets less or disappears when they are cultivated. Carrots, Parsley, Fennel, notably Celery, Tomatoes and even Potatoes when green bear out this contention, though the last two belong to a notoriously poisonous order of plants. G. T. THE MAKING OF A LAWN FROM SEED. FOR making a lawn from seed, if the sowing should have to be done in spring- time, the grotmd, if possible, ought to have been dug over during the winter months and allowed to lie in its rough state until it is time to sow the seeds. By leaving it lying rough, the frost gets a much better hold, with the result, especially if it is inclined to be heavy soil, that a better and finer seed-bed can be obtained. If the ground is in poor condition, some good, old, rotted stable manure should be lightly dug in ; but care must be taken not to dig it in too deeply, as it is essential that the roots of the young plants should reach it as soon as possible if it is to be of any use. The Preparation of the Seed-Bed in spring should be as follows — at least, I have found it the best : Rake the whole surface to break up any clods and also to remove any stones and rubbish. Make good any hollows by filling them up with soil, and also level any high parts, so as to get the surface as even as possible. When this work has been carried out, tread the whole surface, then rake again, and, after this, roll it until it is quite firm and true. When the rolling has been completed, any uneven- ness will show, and a final levelling can be done. Before sowing, as the seed-bed is now ready, rake over once more, so as to break up the surface to receive the seed. The Sowing should be done on a quiet day, and when the ground is dry on the top. Scatter the seed evenly all over and rake lightly in every direction so as to thoroughly bury the seed ; but when raking be smre not to rake too heavily, as the seeds only require a light covering. Roll all with a heavy iron roller once, then leave it. Treatment of Young Grass.— When the seeds have germinated and the young plants are just peeping through, do not on any account roll then ; but as soon as the grass is, say, an inch or so high, give a rolling to firm the surface, and mow with a good sharp mower so as not to tear out any of the young plants. Set the mower high enough so as just to cut the ends off the grass. Do not on any account let the grass grow too long, as it is not a crop of hay that is aimed at, but a thick, close carpet of turf, and this cannot be better or more quickly obtained than by keeping it down. I would make a strong point of this last matter in regard to mowing. Care should now be taken not to over-roll, and the roller should not be used when it is raining, a time one very often sees the roller in use. This is a fatal mistake, as the grass, like a human being, must have air. It must surely be only common sense that if the ground is rolled when it is so wet on the top, the roots are being deprived of the air and the young plants are gradually being choked. Never roU even an old lawn when the surface is very wet, and never roll during rain, as I am perfectly satisfied 140 THE GARDEN. [March 14, 1914 in my own miad that this has been the ruination of many a good lawn and the means of so many weeds making their appearance where there was once a good, clean carpet of turf. The foregoing remarks are simply a few of the methods I employ, and, I must say, with excellent results, when I lay down a lawn from seed. Peter W. Lees. (Greenkeeper, Mid-Surrey Golf Club.) ON SEASONABLE NOTES GRAPE VINES. HEAT DISBUDDING, AND TYING DOWN SHOOTS. SINCE the weather became milder, the heat under glass has been like summer. Grape-growers always like to experience a period of bright sunshine while the Vines are starting new growth for the year. Shoots forced on by artificial lieat dm-mg- their early stages, %vhen the weather IS generally cloudy, are never strong at first, and, of course, that means loss of time. I have also noticed rather smaller bunches, as the main stem of each bunch and stems emanating from it are shorter. The bunches will be compact enough, but to obtain high-class berries many more of them, regarded as surplus berries, must be cut out. Sun-heat is, therefore, very precious in the vinery. I quite beUeve that amateur cultivators lose a lot of sun-heat in the springtime. Of course, they no doubt prevent loss of foliage through scorching, but an expert Grape-grower will husband almost all the sun-heat and do no harm thereby to the leaves, but rather benefit them. The inexperienced cultivator loses the heat through injudicious ventilation. If he opens wide the ventilators— often the front ones as well as those at the top of the house— he causes a current of cold air to pass through the structure, and it chills the warmed leaves. Now, how must the amateur ventilate without causing harm, but with good results? He should open the top ventilators about an inch wide just before the sun shines on the house in the morning. Excessive moisture is thus dried up on the tiny leaves before the sun's rays are strong enough to scorch them. About two hours afterwards open the ventilators another inch, and at noon, if the sun-heat increases, another inch. Front ventila- tion is neither necessary nor desirable. The heat in the structure may be very high, but it will do good, especially if the path and border are damped once or twice. The atmosphere will become quite moist ; it will be what is commonly termed " a growing atmosphere." None of this moisture will lodge on the Vine leaves as long as the top ventilators are open. As the sun's power wanes, the ventilators must be gradually closed; finally, not later than half-past three o'clock in case of a house facing due south. Saving Fire-Heat.— All this means a saving of fuel and the work attendant on stoking, as the fires must be allowed to bum out each morning as the sun-heat increases, and the pipes must again be warmed as the internal temperature goes down after sunset. Disbudding.— It is always a pleasure to rub out nice fat buds as long as there are plenty of fatter ones to retain, because one knows that the buds left on the Vines will soon gain extra strength. 'Inhere are, however, many amateur cultivators who caimot bring their courage to the pouit of removing enough of the surplus buds. This has often been proved to me, and, of course, the result is overcrowding right from the begmning. On each spur leave one shoot well placed and, of course, bearing the best bunch of Grapes, as the tiny bunch can readily be seen in the point of a shoot an inch long. The thinnmg out of the bunches will be a matter to claim attention some weeks later on. All the disbudding must be completed when the shoots are from I inch to 2 inches long. Tying Down the Shoots.— It is wonderful how quickly the shoots grow at this season, and they always point towards the roof glass. The ends of the shoots would be crippled if left for long touching the glass ; this should not happen. The young bunches would also be chilled. To prevent any check, commence tying down the shoots just before they reach the glass. Simply bring down the pomt a few inches ; then further in a few days' time, and, when the Vines are flowering, do the final tymg to the horizontal bars, as the shoots will stand" the strain without snapping off at that stage. Avon. SWEET PEA NOTES. THE present month is of vast importance to all growers of Sweet Peas. The seedlings require careful attention, while the soil which was trenched in the autumn will be greatly benefited by a top-dressing of soot, super- phosphate of lime and bone-meal, and a close vigilance must be kept against the ravages of frost, mice and birds ; for, should a mishap occur from any of these causes, it is getting almost too late for fresh sowings to be made to produce blooms for exhibition purposes. Autumn-Sown Plants.— Thus far the winter has been most favourable, and never have I seen plants in a better condition. Of course, it is in March and April that we expect to see the autumn- sown plants "leg along," and the past sunny days have worked their magic charm and vigorous side growths are pushing up well ; in fact, all the omens for future success are " set fair." However, it is too early to expect whiter to have departed, and sharp frosts must be looked for, so it is neces- sary to provide protection at night and to give all reasonable care to prevent unnecessary checks occurring. A strong, short-jointed, healthy plant, well able to withstand bad weather when it is planted out, should be the ideal of all growers. To attam this the growing plants will need plenty of space, and on no account must they be allowed to become spindly and drawn, or matted together in a confused mass. See to it that twigs are placed around them before they can topple over, as it is folly to neglect to give them adequate supports. Prevention of trouble is much better than trying to effect a cure, which, in the case of Sweet Peas, is seldom efficacious. Aji excellent plan, if the grower can give the necessary time and trouble, is to treat every seedling as he would a rooted cutting, i.e., pot it into a 3-inch pot, using good loamy potting soil. I like domg this in early February, and have always found the plants greatly improved thereby. For a few days after repotting I keep them close, but the plants soon get away with renewed vigour. How- ever, by the time these notes are printed it will be rather late for this course to be adopted, yet it is a plan well worth following, especially if exhi- bition blooms be the end in view ; but in growing for ordinary decorative purposes it is not necessary. Spring-Raised Plants.— The hardening off of these plants should be gradual, but it is a great mistake to keep them too long in a warm, moist house, and especially if it is not possible to place them within a few inches of the glass ; therefore, directly the fourth leaf appears, transfer them to a cold frame, although, of course, common sense must be used in giving them air, as it will not be advisable to expose them fully to the bitterly cold winds so prevalent at this time of the year. Above all things avoid producing a weak, attenuated plant, and such plants are more common from a spring sowing, as they have been grown quickly in a warm, moist atmosphere, whereas those sown in the autumn have braved the chills of winter and altogether are hardier. Method of Hardening Off.— Perhaps a few- words on this wUl be helpful. The plants, when 3 inches or 4 inches high, should be placed in a cold frame, the lights of which are kept closed for a few days except durmg bright sunshine at midday, and at night a mat should be placed over the glass. (Some of my readers will rightly say I have often written that Sweet Peas will withstand several degrees of frost. Quite so ; yet I do not think it wise to expose tender and oftentimes rare seedlings unnecessarily ; hence the foregoing advice.) After ten days of this treat- ment the plants should be accustomed gradually to hardier treatment, avoiding exposure to bitingly cold winds, and by the beginning of April the lights should be removed altogether, the plants now being sturdy and strong, capable of weather- ing the adverse climatic conditions they may have to encounter. Pests.— To frustrate the attacks of birds, mice and slugs, vigilance is the chief weapon. The old-fashioned remedies of cotton for birds and chloride of lime dusted outside the box or frame to keep away mice are effective if applied before the damage is done ; but too often these precautions are taken when the crop has 'been severely mauled. Soil. — The top-dressing of soil which has pre- viously been trenched is of great importance. This must not, of course, be overdone, but a good dusting of soot, bone-meal and superphosphate should be raked in. I have tested several of the " special manures " that are in commerce, using them instead of the soot, superphosphate and bone-meal, and have found them very good. A fortnight previous to planting I used 20Z. of Dobbie's Sweet Pea Manure to every circle ol 2 feet diameter, and 20Z. of Clay's Fertilizer to every yard in rows, and had excellent results from both. I must mention that good farmyard manure had been well incorporated into the soil during the trenchmg operations, and the soil had been well pulverised. The texture of the soil has a deal to do with the success or failure of experiments of this kind ; but every soil which has been well prepared in the autumn will readily respond to the extra nourishment given by a liberal surface-dressing of soot, bone-meal, &c., or the specially prepared manures for Sweet Peas as advertised in Thf Garden. Summer Feeding I will deal witl. in a future article, as it is an important cultural factor, the misuse of which causes much trouble in bud- dropping, rank, sappy, flowerless growths, an.l kindred ills, ^- «■ l'«"»- GARDEN. ■^3^-^, ^^^^^^^ No. 2209.— Vol. LXXVIII, March 21, iqi4. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Protection of Fruit-Buds. — Now is the time wlien birds do such damage to the buds of the majority of fruit trees and bushes, and means must be taken to ward them off. An occasional spraying with Quassia E.xtract or any substance that will make the buds unpalatable will to a certain extent stop them. Planting Forced Bulbs.— A very pleasing effect may sometimes be produced by planting forced bulbs in the wilder parts of the flower garden or shrubbery. These should be planted as soon as possible, as if left until the autumn most of the foliage has died down, and it may just happen that the bulbs are planted too near to a previous plantation. Transplanting Pentstemons. — The young plants should now be taken from the frames and trans- planted in some sheltered spot that has previously been prepared. If some leaf-soil has been forked in, this will not only assist root action, but the plants will lift with much better balls of soil at planting-time. Should severe weather set in, they win require a little protection, say, of Spruce branches. Sowing Primula sinensis. — To be of any value for autumn decoration, seeds should be sown about the middle of March ; and although this Primula requires very little heat during the growing season, it is well to sow the seeds in a temperature of 60°. Prick out the young plants as soon as large enough to handle, keep close for a few days, and water with great care. Clean, well-crocked pots are indispensable, and the soil for future potting may consist of turfy loam and leaf-soil, with plenty of sharp sand to keep the compost from becoming sour. Saxifraga oppositifolia. — 'Bhis is one of the most beautiful of early flowering Saxifragas or Rockfoils. A rich mass of its rosy purple flowers on a ledge in the rock garden is very beautiful at the present time. It is one of our rare British flowers, being found in some of the hilly parts of Wales, Scotland and Ireland. There are several beautiful varieties, some with larger flowers or of a deeper colour, as well as a pure white variety, alba. All of the varieties succeed in a well-drained, sunny position, in soil composed of good loam, peat, sand and a few granite chips. Planting by the Lakeside. — ^This is the time to make plantations of moisture-loving plants on the banks of streams or ponds. There is no scarcity of plants suitable for the purpose, which may include bold clumps of Iris, of which there are many charming varieties to choose from. Spiraeas may be planted close to the water's edge. Lythrums, Senecios, Rodgersia podophylla, Osmunda regalis, Gunnera scabra and G. manicata are noble plants, and weJ] suited for the water's edge. Myosotis and Primula japonica may be freely planted, and will produce a very pleasing effect, but must be placed well up the bank. The First Clematis to Flower. — Clematis calycina is the first of the genus to flower, often commencing in January, and for this reason it should be grown more than it is. The pendulous flowers, which are borne in the leaf-axil, are li inches in diameter, the petaloid sepals being of a yellowish white, faintly spotted on the inside with reddish purple ; and although the flowers PROFESSOR KEEBLE, THE NEW DIRECTOR AT THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S GARDENS. may not be termed showy, they are, nevertheless, distinctly pretty against the handsome dark bronzy green, finely cut foliage. Although hardy, it should be given a south wall, as this enables the wood to get thoroughly ripened, which is essential for a good display of flowers. Treatment of Gladioli. — There seems to be a great diversity of opinion as to the treatment of these stately flowers. Some advocate potting the bulbs, and, where space is plentiful, this method has much to commend it. Others, again, plant the bulbs where they are to flower, and in early districts this would seem to be the better method of the two. But in cold and late districts it is preferable to place the bulbs in ordinary cutting- boxes now, and stand them either in cold frames or in a cool house. If well hardened off and planted out carefully, little damage need be done to the roots. By adopting this method one has a reasonable chance of getting them into bloom with the other bedding plants. Pruning Roses. — The majority of Roses may now be pruned. Notwithstanding the great advance made in Rose-growing during the past year or two, it is surprising to see the number who still persist in pruning their Roses as one would a hedge, all shoots being cut over, big and little alike. Expert Rose-growers know the peculiarities of each variety, and will prune accordingly. But for those having only a miscellaneous collection, the following rule may be followed : Cut clean away all weak and sickly shoots, leaving only matured shoots of moderate thickness, and these may be cut back to within 4 inches to 6 inches of the base. Dividing Aspidistras. — Few plants are more useful for house decoration than the Aspidistras, especially where gas is used. Both A. lurida and its variegated form are equally hardy, and with a little attention will flourish in out-of-the- way positions, where most other plants would quickly collapse. The present is a suitable time for the propagation of these useful plants. Take the old plants that are to be divided and pull them to pieces with one or more leaves on, accord- ing to the number of plants it is desired to make, and then pot them up in a mixture of fibrous loam, leaf-soil and sand. The New Director at Wisley. — Just as our last issue had gone to press we received a notification from the Royal Horticultural Society to the effect that Professor Keeble, F.R.S., of University College, Reading, had been appointed Director of the gardens at Wisley. It wUl be remembered that at the annual general meeting of the Fellows held in February last the Council were empowered to spend some of the surplus funds for the- purpose of developing the gardens on scientific lines. We understand that Professor Keeble's duties will include the general guidance and supervision of the trials, teaching and research. It is pleasing to learn that Mr. F. J. Chittenden will remain in charge of the educational section, where he has already done a great deal of good work, and that Mr. S. T. Wright, the superinten- dent, will still supervise the practical work. We wish Professor Keeble every success in his new sphere, and hope that he will always remember that practical horticulture is of far greater import- ance to the Fellows of the society than purely scientific research, which is already being carried out in many other directions. There is a danger of unnecessary overlapping in many of the experi- ments that are being conducted in different establishments. 142 THE GARDEN. [March 21, 1914. CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents.) Borders of Lavender and Pinks.— In this Jamp climate the common and Dutch Lavenders are very apt to die off in big pieces in the spring. To avoid bare spots we put in single Pinks from cuttings all around the plants, hoping they would grow up and through the grey bushes. The result of the experiment in its third year can be seen in the accompanying picture. There are three shades of pink in the flowers and three shades of grey, including the stone paving, so there is no monotony in the scheme. The Pinks lasted in bloom more than six weeks last summer, and filled the small garden with fragrance ; and the Lavender, wc find, gives out its scent even in winter. — Rosa Tangve, Westtnere. EdgbastoH. Tall Antirrhinums. — As I consider the better varieties nf these plants among the best of able article on page 131 and page 132 ? I am sure it is known to very many of your readers. It might appropriately be described as a bicolor, but the colours (pale rose with white) are so soft and blend so well that it is a general favourite. — F. R. H. S, Lachenalias as Room Plants. — Few take th( trouble to grow these bulbs well, and the results, in consequence, are poor, and then they are not appreciated. I try to do what I can for them, and I am rewarded. I had a' beautiful pan of L. Nelsonii in my study for no less than twenty- two days last February, I live in the room every day, and at night, with the oil lamp and fire combined, it gets pretty warm (of course, no gas). Is there any Hyacinth, Tulip, Daffodil or Narcissus that will go on so long under like conditions ? Nelsonii is good, but give me the rich deep orange yellows, of Rose Barton and the larger-flowered and more open bells of St. Patrick. This latter, coupled with Shiner and John Geoghegan. I put at the verv top of Sir Frederick Moore's striking BORDERS OF THE COMMON LAVENDER AND PINKS IN A EDGBASTON, BIRMINGHAM. READER S GARDEN AT hardy plants, I was much interested to read the article by Mr. Brotherston on page 131 of your issue of March 14. He mentions with approval some plants having spikes 7 feet high, and seems to have a contempt for those of normal size ! This is rather strange, bearing in mind that the intermediate section, growing about eighteen inches, is just now the most popular and contains some of the best varieties. Surely these and the ordinary tall varieties are incomparably more beautiful and more useful than such monstrosities as your contributor mentions. I find Antirrhinums can be grown as hardy annuals with very fair success, the seeds being sown in a glass-covered box in March, without artificial heat. Good loamy soil should be used to ensure quick growth. Some plants I raised in this way last season bloomed, in poor soil, for quite tw'o months, and made fine, large, branching plants. — G. L. J. Why does Mr. Brotherston omit Antir- rhinum Cottage Maid in his comprehensive and creations. August potting, light, rich, well-drained soil, air and a moderate temperature and thorough ripening are the main factors in successful culture. — Joseph Jacob. The Shrubby Browallias. — There is a great tendency to regard all Browallias as annuals ; indeed, the shrubby-growing B. speciosa major was recently referred to in The Garden as an annual. Though seed is readily obtainable and seedlings grow away readily, there is no need to depend solely upon this mode of increase, as cuttings root without difficulty, and plants so obtained will flower in quite a small state. As a decorative plant B. speciosa major well merits al! that your correspondent says in its favour, for it is almost continuous blooming. A second species, B. viscosa, which is also described in some horti- cultural works as an annual, is of as pronounced a shrubby character as the other. From B. speciosa major this species differs in the flowers being smaller, and in colour a deep blue with a white eye or centre. Both are well worth growing. They are equally floriferous, not only under pot culture, but when bedded out during the summer months, under which conditions I have met with them in several instances within the last two or three years. — H. P. I Myosotidium nobile Flowering in Scotland. — There is a nice specimen of this rare plant, which was sent from a Cornish garden last autumn, in flower here at present. It subsequently lost all its leaves, but these were renewed during the winter. It is a lovely flower, and one would be glad to know if it seeds freely from self-fertilised seeds, or if these arc fertile if and when produced. I would like to see it prospering in a warm corner in the open. Has anyone in the North, in the Rhyns of Galloway, for instance, or in the Black Isle, succeeded with it in the open ? Another of our treasures, a Primrose of a peculiarly nice shade of green, found by Lady Griscll Baillie- Hamilton, is also in flower. The original plant prospered so well at one time that plants were given to several gardens, leaving a nice lot for tliis garden. But they suddenly gave way, and I could with difficulty save only three pieces from the general doom, and, strange to say, every plant of those dispersed went the same way. It was equally vexatious to lose at the same time a small piece of a double green the late Peter Barr favoured nie with. — R. P. Brotherston, Tyninghame . Prestonkirk. Miniature Hyacinths.— Reading the note on miniature Hyacinths by the Rev. J. Jacob on page 114 uf March 7 issue, it seemed very strange that he accurately describes another variety under the name of Orange Boven, namely, the so-called yellow Roman Hyacinth. This variety is seemingly a true Roman, being thin, tall and stiff of stem, with medium-sized bells lightly and sparse!}' arranged. The flowers are delicately perfumed, not so strong as the white Roman, and for cut purposes even better and far preferable to the general run of miniatures, which sometimes, at least, are quite nasty things, both as Hyacinths and flowers. The yellow Roman does not force quite so early as the white variety, and makes a much prettier pot plant. The colour, again, is not yellow, neither is it orange, but there are shades of both. Yet another Hyacinth that on its merits deserves a note of recommendation is a French variety called Couleur de Chair. It forces rather easier than the miniature forms, and is a much better pot plant. It is very good as a February flower, and of a delicately shaded rose colour, rather too deep for flesh, as the name would suggest. Grown three or four bulbs in a pot, it makes a charming and welcome effect during a month when flowers are greatly needed, especially of that colour. A word concerning Tulips may not be out of place. How many are there who, having to main- tain a wealth of cut flowers, think of forcing varieties of Darwins ! Some of these, by reason of the long stems and large leaves, are very suitable for cutting, and look exceedingly effective, the colours being of varied and contrasting hues. A few worth mentioning are Rev. Ewbank, Mrs. Famcombe Sanders (brilliantly beautiful), Mme. Krelage, Glory, Pride of Haarlem, Fra .■\ngelico. Harry Veitch and Orion. One of the sweetest Tulips in cultivation, and suitable to be grown in pots and for gentle forcing, is Orange King, a May-flowering type and exquisitely scented. The rich colour alone is suflicient to recommend it, — H. R., Twickel Castle Gardens, Holland. March 21, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 143 Peat Moss Manure. — In the most interesting letters that have appeared in the pages of The Garden on this subject, all your correspondents seem to have overlooked one great fault in its use as manure, viz., the quantity of weeds that invariably follow wherever it is dug into the ground ; at least, that is my experience. At one time it was used in the stables here. Mixed with the straw manure I found it very good for nearly all green crops, except for the trouble of the weeds, especially a variety of Sow Thistle, which no amount of heating or fermenting the manure-heap seemed to destroy the vitality of its seeds. — H. Reynolds, Scratby Hall, Great Yarmouth. liime in the Garden. — I have been very much interested in reading in The Garden of February 28, page III, an article by Professor Houston on the uses of lime in gardens. The last paragraph was, however, a great surprise to me, as he states there that lime must not be used in planting Potatoes. My experience is to the contrary. Last year my gardener, when planting Potatoes in drills 9 yards long, spread in each ijst. of freshly ground lime, and then covered it over with soil. The Potatoes were all sprouted at the time. On lifting them in the autumn the average yield was 5st. to each drill. The quality of the Potatoes has been exceptionally fine. I have constantly remarked during the winter how good they were. I have had lime recommended for dressing the lawns in the spring. Can any gardening friends tell me if they have tried it, and with what result, and also what quantity should be applied ? — J. D. Sparrows Eating YfiUow Crocuses. — In your issue for March 7, page 113, there is a note on the damage done by sparrows to yellow Crocuses, and it is remarked that other colours are left alone. I have seen it suggested that some sweet juice is found by the birds in the petals and stems of the flowers ; but this is hardly probable, as the behaviour of sparrows when tearing the Crocuses to pieces suggests annoyance rather than pleasure. Nor are Crocuses the only flowers injured in this manner. Polyanthuses often suffer severely, but the pale shades are never attacked so ferociously as the bright colours or those rendered con- spicuous by a dark ring. According to my experi- ence, the reason is to be found in the effect of bright yellow upon the birds. Those who have studied the subject of colour will know that red inspires fear in birds and animals, while yellow appears attractive, but often arouses excitement amounting to irritation. I have known a brood of chickens thrown into a state of panic by the sight of a red object, while they pecked with excited curiosity at a yellow one. It is puzzlmg to say why birds should molest some yellow flowers while others, equally bright, are left alone ; but some plants, such as Winter Aconites, probably possess an acrid juice distasteful to birds, while taller subjects, such as Tulips, are more difficult to injure than those nearer the ground. Spring flowers, naturally, suffer the most, because later in the year the greater predominance of colour in the landscape would prevent a single species from attracting much attention. Birds, too, are in a far more excitable state in the spring, and weather conditions may explain why more damage is done one year than another. It is strange that some gardens should suffer more than others, but the position of the flowers may in some cases keep the birds from attacking them. I myself have noticed that Crocuses when planted in small clumps are more severely injured than those planted in large sheets ; but the whole subject is full of interest, and possibly some of your readers can throw more light upon it. — (Miss) E. A. Patch, Aldbourne, Wilts. Saxifraga burseriana and its Varieties.— With further reference to Saxifraga burseriana, "Alpinist's" note on page 114 of March 7 issue raises an interesting question, which, I think, it is most desirable should be discussed and answered authoritatively before the forthcoming Saxifrage Conference. I refer to the question of whether the Saxifrages commercially listed and sold as distinct varieties of S. burseriana are, in fact, distinct. I think that I can solve one at least of " Alpinist's " doubts. At the present moment there is in flower upon a moraine in my garden a plant of S. b. Gloria, one flower of which can just, and only just, be covered by a half-crown piece. This plant has not been disbudded. It is true that it is a very small and youthful plant, and has thrown a single flower- stem only, but upon that stem it has at least two, and possibly three, flowers. Among the thousands of the finest possible examples of S. biu-seriana type which I have examined, I have never seen any single flower making any approach to such a bloom of S. b. Gloria in point of size. I think that " Alpinist " may be basing his judg- ment, as I have sometimes done, upon specimens purporting to be S. b. Gloria, S. b. major and so forth, which in reality are nothing of the kind. An important point to be borne in mind is that S. b. Gloria does not come true from seed. Now, I fear it cannot be disputed that seedlings of S. b. Gloria are frequently sent out as S. b. Gloria itself. As at present advised, I am unable to find any definite differentiating feature in the so-called variety S. b. major. My own burserianas (type) are in every way superior to a batch of S. b. major, which I was misguided enough to purchase at a price considerably higher than the current price of the type ; and I am decidedly of opinion that the ever-increasing multiplicity of names is, from every botanical and horticultural point of view, unjustifiable. But in the case of S. b. minor there is no longer the least doubt that the matter is different. S. b. minor is at least a fort- night later than the type in flowering. Its habit is altogether distinct, being compact and cushion- like, while its flowers are very much smaller, and borne upon shorter and more slender stems. It has been suggested to me that there is a differ- ence in the number of anthers in these varieties ; but this is not so, since in all forms the number is normally ten. I must not trespass further upon your space to go into the questions aroused by S. tridentata and so forth ; but I should, in conclusion, like to draw the attention of your readers to a delightful novelty which I saw upon Mr. Tucker's stand at the meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society on the 24th ult. This form is named S. crenata. As its name implies, it has crenated or notched edges, and is both dainty and altogether distinct from any other form. — Raymond E. Negus, The Lawn, Walton- on-Thames. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. March 24. — Royal Horticultural Society's Ex- hibition : Lecture at 3 p.m. on " Pruning Shrubs," by Mr. E. Beckett, V.M.H. March 26. — Manchester and North of England Orchid Society's Meeting. Royal Botanic Society's Meeting. PRUNING ROSES. WHY IT IS NECESSARY. PROBABLY there is no subject that has been so much discussed and written upon as pruning Roses, and yet, judging from letters received, there are numbers of readers quite at a loss to understand its mysteries. And yet there should be no mystery, for the most casual observer of our wild Roses will see that Nature has endowed them with remarkable recuperative powers, so that when old gro\vths have exhausted themselves by abundant bloom- ing, there are other and younger growths springing up from the base to carry on the decorative work. It is the same with our modem Roses. Let anyone examine a well-grown bush or standard, and he will observe several fine shoots that have emerged close to the base of the plant, and which seem to appeal to us to cut away some of the older growths to afford them light and air wherem they may develop. What to Cut Away. — As to how much one should prune back a certain Rose only needs a little observation to determine. Siurely, where Nature has given a Rose, such as Hugh Dickson, the power to send up a growth from 7 feet to 12 feet in height, it would be madness to cut such a growth as close down as one would a Rose of the type, say, of General Macarthur. I would, therefore, while giving some general hints, counsel readers to observe for themselves, and, above all things, if the work of pruning must be relegated to that much-abused man, the " jobbing gardener," set- that the plants are not all shorn alike, as if some sheep-shearer had been at work. An instance of what I might term " unorthodox " pruning came under my notice a year or two ago. A large collection of garden Roses, planted two years previously, had made splendid growth, and as the winter was a mild one, the gardener deter- mined he would not prime severely. All the previous year's growths were retained almost full length, and merely old wood cut out. The result was a glorious mass of bloom. The evil of this practice would be that the plants woiUd not pro- duce such good basal growths as they would have done if pruned more severely, so that another year the plants would be somewhat imshapely, unless care were taken during the summer to prune back some of the growths. I am quite persuaded that if we were sure of our winters not harrning the wood, many of our glorious Tea and Hybrid Tea Roses could be allowed to grow into quite h\ige bushes, feeding them generously, of course, so that the extra demands upon the plants' resources could be satisfied. It seems like a fairy tale to read of plants of Papa Gontier and such-like Roses growing into bushes larger than Lilacs in the sunny Riviera, where they may be seen lining railway tracks, overtopping fences, &c. I have seen something similar in sunny Devonshire, so that all who are fortunate enough to dwell in such salubrious districts must not treat their Roses as becomec necessary to those who dwell in a colder part, for it is absolutely fatal to successful Rose culturi' to attempt to obtain blooms from growths tha'. have had their pith browned by frost. I believe the retention of such wood has caused many disappointments. I think it was at Ulverston that about two years ago an amateur ex- hibited some of the grandest blooms of Mrs. Foley Hobbs that have ever been seen, and they were cut from unpruned bushes growing near 144 THE GARDEN. [March 21, 1914 the sea among Apple bushes. The Roses had been highly fed with chemical manures, and there they were, a feast lor the eyes. We frequently, in cottage gardens, meet with most remarkable specimens of La France and other Roses that have had very little pruning, specimens we have all envied, which have left us pondering that we who make Rose-growing our profession have much to learn, even from the humble cottager. It is much a case of environment. Notice how a plant of Marie van Houtte will attain to a height of some 20 feet when upon a congenial wall ; whereas the same variety in the open would need to be hard pruned if the winter happened to be severe. Walls for such Roses should be reserved, wherever possible, and I hope soon to see Roses of the type of Lyon, Rayon d'Or and Willowmere luxuriating thereon, for I am in- clined to think the beautiful tribe, the Pemetianas, are peculiarly adapted to such a purpose. Spring Frosts. — Unfortunately lor us, there is always a big " but " to remember. What a glorious show of Roses we might have "but" for the blighting May frosts ! How promising the growths are now breaking ; it seems a crime to prune them away, and yet, if retained, we might have all spoUt by the cruel frosts of spring. This year, especially, we must harden our hearts, for I think I never saw the Roses so forward as they are now, the beginning ckery upon the same lines. Choosing a Site. — When one's ground measures, let us say, lOO feet by 50 feet, it is little use brooding over which portion of our domain we shall devote to the alpine garden ; and, providing there are no over- hanging trees and two-thirds of the space receives a fair amount of sunshine, it is quite possible, as in my own case, to devote the whole to the scheme in hand, and, what is more, decoratively furnish it in every part. The Building Material. — The next problem which confronts the rock gardener is building material. I would like here to emphasise the fact that usually the man with a small garden often has the added disadvantage of a shallow pocket, and however desirable it is to employ the most perfect material, such as mountain limestone {and no one appreciates more than I do the decorative value of beautiful stone), it is often beyond the range of the gardener to obtain such for a reason- able outlay. Anywhere in my neigh- bourhood such stone will cost from 15s, to 20s. per ton by the time it is delivered, and supposing that thirty tons are needed, the cost is often prohibitive. Writers of considerable experience often suggest that real stone is necessary for the successful cultivation of alpine plants. While the term " success " is, I agree, a difficult one to define, 1 do, with all respect, emphatically differ from them, and, so far as my experience goes, nothing is so likely to turn the " would-be alpinist " from his project as too much emphasis on this particular. My own garden shows that it is easily possible to cultivate, with a very considerable degree of success, the great bulk of alpine plants, including many of the choicest, without a particle of real stone ; and I should strongly urge those who are placed as I am to employ the concrete lumps frequently obtainable near London, and which, I believe, come from beneath the City roads when the latter are being relaid. Having decided upon the matter of " rock," the next item is soil. The garden in question will doubtless furnish some amount, especially if it is decided to lower one portion of the ground so as to increase the height of the slopes and possibly form a pool, by the margin of which many water- loving plants will find a congenial home. This can be augmented by a few loads of loam and more of sand — even if the latter is only sweepings from gravel roads. A quantity of builders' refuse is also a very great help, and the coarser portions of this latter can with advantage be spread over the site to act as drainage, should the natural soil, as in my case, be of a close, clayey nature. Having heaped the earth (after well mixing) in the varying masses we wish the design eventually to .take, and having decided where the main paths are to be, it is well to start at the lowest point and begin building. When several are in position, well pack the gritty soil behind them so as to make all finn and solid. After roughly levelling, proceed to place the next higher tier. While a rock bank must be more or less in the form of terraces rising one above the other, care must be taken to avoid formality and to vary the outline by employing blocks of various shapes and sizes ; while often a good effect can be secured by breaking across a terrace with two pieces lying at an angle. Arrange for the ground to slope at varying degrees of steepness in different parts. Where a gentle incline is being formed, it is frequently possible to secure an excellent effect by allowing a promontory t^i jut VERONICA RUPESTRIS FURNISHING THE PATH EDGE. Making the Paths. — Every effort should be made to make the paths as irregular as possible, both in the horizontal and vertical direction, thus getting as far as possible from the formal, though care should be taken to make them sufticiently wide to avoid damage to the plants which will eventually mantle the rocky slopes adjoining. Where the path dips, it is better, I think, to form it in a series of steps. Placing the Rock. — To return, however, to the building. The first thing to do is to well ram the seating, and at the same time give a slight inclination inwards and towards the bank of soil, at the base of which the work is being started. Upon this spot place the first " rock " in such a way that it lays firmly and also has its most decorative face outwards. Next to this put block No. 2, locking them together by their pro- jecting ends, so as to leave no space between them through which the soil will leak, or, failing this, stopping the opening with a smaller piece. out, as though an extra large outcrop was emerging there. Where the rock bank slopes to the path, arrange for it to fall in a steep buttress in one place, as though a strong shoulder was holding up the mass ; then, after making a little bay or inward curve from the path, to come forward again, this time as a more gently rising spur. When viewed from a little distance, the slowly rising buttress will show up in pleasing contrast to the more vertical one. Always use the most select pieces of stone for these promontories, since the)- can well be left less draped with verdure than the remainder, and so give force and character to the whole. Each stone, no matter what its size, should be so firmly placed and wedged as to be immovable if stood upon, while the earth must always be well rammed behind to form a solid foundation for the higher parts to rest on. Reginald A. Maley. iTo be continued.) 162 THE GARDEN. [March 28, 1914. GARDENING OF THE WEEK FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. Late Vineries.— All late Vines will be well ■on. the move now, and should not be subjected to much fire-heat ; 55" at night will be quite high enough. When the buds become prominent, the Vines should be carefully tied to the trellis, and disbudding accomplished as soon as it can be ascertained which are the most promising. Very little air will be necessary for some time, and this should be admitted early in the day, shutting up the house early in the afternoon to secure a good rise of temperature by sun-heat. The walls and border may be syringed several times daily to promote a moist atmosphere. The temperature of Muscat Vineries should not be allowed to tall below 70° at night, especi.illy during the flowering period, and at this stage the atmosphere must be kept moderately drv and the pollen dispersed by means of a bunch of soft feathers or a rabbit's tail tied to a light stick. The trellis should also be shaken several times during the day. When a good set has been secured, the border should be examined, and, if necessary, a good watering •of clear water given. Plants Under Glass. Chrysanthemums.— The early struck plants will now be established in 6-inch pots, and should be given as much air as possible during favourable weather to keep them from becoming drawn. Remove the lights during mild days and replace them at night. Watering must be carefully attended to, giving the plants a good soaking of clear water when necessary. There is nothing more detrimental than frequent dribbling with the water-pot when the soil is neither wet nor dry. Carnation Souvenir de la Malmaison.— These plants will now require a little shade during the hottest part of the day. Never allow them to sufier from want of water at the roots, and feed them frequently with some approved manure. Young plants should be grown in cool quarters, no fire-beat being necessary. Keep a sharp look-out for aphis, and fumigate before it becomes established. Sweet Peas in Pots should now be ready for their final potting. Make the soil firm about the roots, and place the plants in a well-ventilated house and fully exposed to the light. When established, frequent waterings of liquid manure should be given. Winter-Flowering Pelargoniums. — For this purpose young plants should now be ready for potting into 4-inch pots, and when they become well rooted the tops should be pinched in order to produce bushy plants. Do not allow them to become stunted for want of root room, but pot again as soon as necessary,'. The soil may consist of two-thirds turfy loam and the remainder of leaf-soil, and this should be made moderately firm. The Flower Garden. Sweet Peas raised in pots for planting in the flower garden should be exposed to the weather for eight or ten days before they are planted in the open. The ground for this purpose should be thoroughly trenched and manured if the best results are expected, and protection from rough wind must be provided by placing evergreen branches round the plants as soon as they are put out. Violas and Pansies. — These should be planted out with as little delay as possible. If raised from autumn-struck cuttings and wintered in cold frames, they should be nice stocky plants now, and, if carefully transplanted, may be expected to flower freely in April and May. Calceolarias in Cold Pits. — The leading points should be carefully pinched out in order to produce numerous side shoots. If space is available in a cold pit, they will benefit by being transplanted into finely sifted soil, allowing a space of 9 inches between the plants. Seedling Bedding Plants. — Antirrhinums, Pentstemons, East Lothian Stocks and other seedling plants should be pricked out as soon as large enough to handle. Place the boxes in gentle heat until the plants have recovered from trans- planting, after which they may be grown in a cold frame ; but protection' from frost should be provided. Propagation of Bedding Plants should be finished as quickly as possible, either by seed or cuttings, as the time is approaching when many of them will require hardening off. Lobelias may still be raised from cuttings. Carpet bedding plants may be rooted in boxes, where they may remain until required. If large quantities of Altemanthera are required, a hot-bed may be made up for the purpose and covered with finely sifted soil to the depth of 4 inches. The cuttings may be inserted in this, and will quickly make roots ; but care must be taken that the heat is not too strong. Hollyhock Plants which have been wintered in cold frames should be planted out as soon as possible. If grown in large clumps, they form very conspicuous objects during the summer and autumn. The Kitchen Garden. The Sowing of Seeds. — The heavy rain so far experienced during March has seriously delayed the sowing of many small seeds ; but, although rather late, it is better to defer sowing for some time longer than to trample on the ground while wet, especially if the soil is of a heavy nature. Potatoes. — The planting of early varieties should be finished as soon as possible. If the tubers have been started in boxes, it is necessary to plant verv carefully, or some of the young shoots may be broken. Sufficient space must be allowed between the rows to allow light and air to pass freely among them. The planting of second- early varieties may be pushed forward, covering the sets with 4 inches of fine soil. It is very important that all tubers for future plantations should be laid out singly, so that the young shoots may not become drawn, and for this purpose a well-ventilated shed should be chosen. Celery. — If seeds were sown in February, the plants should now be ready for pricking into boxes of fine rich soil. If space is available in cold pits, the young plants may be transplanted into these, allowing a space of 6 inches between them each way, so that a good ball of soil may be lifted with each plant when they are placed in the trenches. Beet. — A sowing of Globe Beet may now be made in a sheltered spot for the supply of roots early in June. Sow in drills a foot apart and cover with an inch of fine soil. Beet in store should be frequently examined and all young growth removed. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Peas. — From now the main crop of Peas may be sown, and to keep up a succession it will be a good guide to sow as soon as a former lot has come through the ground. The taller and larger- podded varieties will require to be sown much thinner, and also allowed more room between the rows. Perhaps the best way of seciuring a constant supply of Peas of the best quality is to break up the other crops with an occasional row. This will provide a shelter to the lower-growing subjects, and at the same time enable the Peas to get well developed. Seakale. — The smaller roots secured from crowiis before forcing may now be planted out, and this on ground that has previously been well manured. If these roots were placed in a cool house as advised some time ago, growth will now be started. As in the case of sprouted Potatoes, it will be well to reduce the sprouts to one before planting. Turnips. — Continue to make a sowing of some of the earlier varieties, and, as in former sowings, give the ground a good dressing of lime, which will assist to ward off the fly that proves so troublesome in the seedling stage. The Flower Garden. Violas. — If flowers are removed from the young plants until they are established, they will continue blooming throughout the year. At Hopetoun we grow many thousands, chiefly of the variety Come to Stay, which are used to carpet the ground under Roses. The effect is very striking indeed. It would not, of coiurse, be wise to plant them among choice Roses, or where they are required for exhibition purposes ; but for ordinary decora- tive varieties there is much to admire in this style of decoration. The Viola I have mentioned seems to stand the drought better than any other variety I know. Annual Lupines. — These are now regarded as one of the most popular hardy annuals of recent years, well deserving a prominent place in any garden. ,\s they do not bear transplanting, they must be sown where they are to flower. To ensure that the young plants will not suffer from slugs just as they are coming up, I find it a good plan to sift some fine soil and ashes, and place it on the border where it is intended to sow them. The seed may be sown now very thinly, and aftenvards thin out well, as each plant will make a fine specimen. Hybridus atrococcineus and mutabilis, cream and white, are two of the best, and will be found to be invaluable for cutting. Melianthus major. — This handsome subtropical subject, so useful as a dot plant in the flower garden, and possessing as it does such beautiful Fern-like foliage, never fails to attract attention. Seed sown now in small pots and grown on in a little heat will make fine plants by the beginning of June, which will be soon enough to risk planting them out. Pruning Shrubs. — A start may now be made with the pruning of evergreen shrubs, such as Laurels and Yews ; but it will be wise to defer interfering with Box trees for some time yet. The pruning of Laurels should, as far as possible, be done with the knife. Plants Under Glass. Tuberoses. — Bulbs should be potted as soon as they arrive, as they are so liable to damp if kept any time in bags. The small bulblets should be rubbed off before potting, for as the bulb is of no value after the first year, there is nothing gained by retaining these. After potting, place them under a stage, where they may be covered with a little loose hay, which will prevent the soil becoming dry. They should be brought on in batches as required, and as soon as growth com- mences keep them close to the glass, otherwise they are inclined to grow rather tall. Winter-Flowering Carnations. — Early rooted cuttings which have been stopped will now require repotting, and should be placed in a cool house ; indeed, they may be kept in this house all the season, provided one is assured of sufficient light and air. Many growers place them in frames or out of doors during the summer, chiefly in the South ; but in the less congenial climate of the North I think this is a mistake. Stop all shoots that may run to bloom until June, which in the Northern Counties will be found to be late enough. Where one has an old house at command, one can grow a batch on the bench system, and, if not stopped after this date, they will give a fine supply of flowers in early November. These benches or boxes need not be more than 6 inches deep, and a sufficient length so that they can be moved when not in use. Coelogyne cristata. — In many cases this useful Orchid will have passed out of bloom, and will claim attention in removing some of the oldest of the pseudo-bulbs, and, in a few instances, repotting. This Orchid resents being disturbed at the roots, so that established plants should not be disturbed unless absolutely necessary. When growth commences, give liberal supplies of water, and later on liquid manure may be given, though only in a weak form. Fruits Under Glass. Vines. — As growth advances, a light sprinkling of some good Vine manure may be applied to the border from time to time. This will be readily taken up where the roots are near the surface. Fruit on pot Vines will be nearing the colouring stage, and a little more air may be adinitted. Exercise great care in watering to prevent splitting. Vines coming into flower will require a mean temperature of 60° to 65°, allowing it to rise 15° with sun-heat. During this period the house should be kept somewhat drier during the day. Muscats must" have a higher temperature when in bloom. John Highgate. (Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.) Hcpetoun Gardens, South Queensferry, N.B. March 28, 1914.' THE GARDEN. 16S SEASONABLE NOTES ON VEGETABLES. Onions. — For general use the main crop ot Onions is distinguished from exhibition bulbs by the fact that they are grown entirely in the open. The month of March is the general time for sowing the seed. The ground will have been heavily manured and dug in the autumn, and left* in as rough a state as possible for the wind and frost to pulverise the surface. Give the plot a dressing of wood-ashes, soot, lime and load grit if the natural soil Is of a heavy, tenacious character. Choose a dry day to fork over the surface 5 inches deep, breaking the clods as the work proceeds. Allow it to settle down for a lew days. Choose again a dry day to rake over the surface, removing the large stones and any rubbish. If the soil is light in character, tread the surface firmly over and rake again before sowing. Draw shallow drills with the comer of a hoe, sow the seed, and cover with a compost of wood-ashes, soot and old potting soil, with a handful of lime added. This addition, where the soil is heavy, is an inducement to quick growth. With the heels fill in the drills .ind rake evenly over. Exhibition Onions should be now well hardened off in cold frames, in- ducing the growth to be made as sturdy as possible. Prepare the site for planting, as the weather permits, by spreading soot, wood- ashes and lime over the surface, lightly forking the soil over in dry weather, and thus, as opportunity occurs, planting may proceed as quickly as possible. With a trowel take the plants- out of the boxes with as large a ball of soil as possible attached to the roots. ■\Ilow 15 inches between the rows :md from i foot to 14 inches from plant to plant. Potatoes. — The main crop should now be got in as fast as possible. This will allow a long season of i^rowth, which is an all-important point, especially if drought sets in in May or June, as is sometimes the case. Those tubers that root early will withstand drought so much better than those more recently planted. The ground will have been previously manured in the autumn and forked over preparatory to planting, which is an incentive to tree growth. The best plan is to dig the ground and plant as digging proceeds, with the exception of the late batch, which may be planted in the field or between fruit trees, where the plough will aid planting. To grow good Potatoes, ample space is required to allow of free develop- ment of haulm and leaves. One, or at the most two shoots are ample to each tuber. Those sprouted in boxes can be regulated in this by rubbing off surplus sprouts. The midseason sorts should be 15 inches apart in rows 2 feet wide. The later sorts, of which The Factor is a type, need 30 inches of space, or a yard where the soil has been heavily manured. Where the soil is heavy, cover the tubers with a compost of wood-ashes and old potting soil, with a small quantity of leaf-mould, as this will encourage quick root action and accelerate the growth. Where farm- yard manure is scarce, especially for the late varieties the following is a good substitute, sprinkled over the tubers in the trenches at planting-time per acre : 5cwt. of superphosphate (35 per cent.), ijcwt. of sulphate of ammonia and rcwt. of muriate of potash. Broccoli and the various sorts of winter greens should now be sown in the open, including Brussels Sprouts for a late crop. Sow the seed thinly, covering with fine soil, with which is added a small quantity of soot. Cover the beds with netting to prevent birds of the linnet class devour- ing the tiny plants the moment they show through the pots in a cold frame until the plants are well up ; then, outside, plunged in ashes, is the best p'acc. This method is much better than either putting in new plants from the open or sowing seed where the plants are to grow. Parsley. — Plants raised from early sovm seed in boxes should now be put out on the borders alongside paths, or in a well-prepared bed ni the open if a quantity is required. Leelcs. — The plants raised under glass will now be hardening ofi in frames preparatory to planting out. The trenches should be prepared ready for their reception about the second week in April. They should be 2 feet deep and 18 inches wide. Break up the bottom of the trench at least 6 inches deep, to allow of free draining of water away from the roots. On the top of this add 4 inches — : of well-rotted manure. On the ! manure lay 3 inches of a prepared compost of old potting soil, leaf- mould and wood-ashes, adding to each bushel of the compost two double handfuls of fine bone- meal, well incorporating the whole together. E, Molynei'x Swanmore Park, Hants. LILY POOL AND STEPS. {From ''House: and Gardens, by E. L. Luiyens.") the soil. As the plants grow, remove all weakly ones to ensure a more sturdy growth for those remaining, and keep the beds free from weeds for the same reason. Vegetable Marrows should be sown in pots in a frame or gentle heat to get them forward. Plant the first batch under hand-lights or spare pit-lights, which are a protection from frost. Asparagus should have attention where the beds were covered with short manure. This should be lightly forked over, raking the rough portions into the alleys, lightly digging this in, and here plant Cauliflowers from the inside-raised plants. Free the beds from weeds and give them a liberal dressing of common salt. Sow two seeds in a 3-inch pot for planting out next year, standing BOOKS. An Artist in Garden Plan- ning.*— In the past architects have often been lacldng in sym- pathy with the horticulturist, but it is now an accepted axiom that architect and gardener should have at least a knowledge of each other's business and endeavour to work in unison. In the case of Mr. Lutyens, Mr. Weaver writes : " One of the important happenings in the career of Mr. Lutyens was liis early acquaintance with Miss Jekyll. Her great gift of gardening served as a stimulus to his appre- ciation, and led him to give the large attention to garden design which he has developed. It would be difficult to exaggerate the im- portance of her influence. Arclii- tects find in gardens a just sphere lor design, but they cannot be ex- pected to have a wide knowledge of horticulture. It is in the main to Miss Jekyll that we owe the rational blending of formal and the natural in garden design, which has harmonised the theories of two contending and often acrimonious schools." The first of the important gardens designed by Mr. Lutyens for an existing house was made in 1893 at Chenies, Buckinghamshire, for Adeline Duchess of Bedford, of which gardens there are many splendid illustrations. The steady progress in the design and general picturesqueness, disclosed in the more recently constructed gardens illus- trated in this book, reaches its zenith probably in those at Hestercombe (Chapter IX.). The superb illustrations of " The Great Plat " at Hestercombe, " The Main Terrace and Retaining Walls," " The Rill and Arbour in the Rose Garden," * ''Houses and Gardens bv E. L. Lutyens," described and criticised bv Lawrence Weaver ; 25s. net. C&uniry Life Offices. 164 THE GARDEN. [March 28, 1914. " The Walled Pool Enclosure," " The West Water (lardeii," "The Dutch Garden" and "The Pergola " with its fine vista, not only show the continual advance in style, but reveal the wonderiul resource and ingenuity displayed by their creator. To quote Mr. Weaver once again, " the Hester- combe gardens are a creation, wherein human imperfection of invention and of workmanship has been brought down to its minimum. They will long stand as a work of art to be admired and an example to be followed. They prove that an architect can be in unison with Nature and that a formal garden can form part of a landscape." Exigencies of space prevent our dealing at greater length with this splendid work, which contains no fewer than 400 pages of folio paper and nearly 600 superb illustrations, plans and diagrams, reproduced in the best Country Life manner. My Garden in Spring.*— it falls to our lot irom time to time to review books dealing with horticultiu-al subjects, some good and some other- wise. For Mr. Bowles' book we have nothing but praise. It is entirely different from some which in recent years have been published, and which have been practically glorified catalogues written up to post-cards of some alpine plant " a penny plain and tuppence coloured," inasmuch as Mr. Bowles writes of plants and shrubs in his own garden, and he writes, too, so vividly and bewitchingly as to make one realise what a glorious garden he possesses, or, rather, that his father possesses, through having allowed his son to garden for him. The marvel is how the author, with the multitude of objects which engage his attention, and all good works, too, for the benefit of his fellow-man, finds time wherein to pay attention to horticultural matters and to write about them ; but he does so with great success, as a perusal of his book will show readers. Mr. Bowles writes in a crisp, refreshing style, and there is a good deal of humour throughout. He would be a bold man who would dare to criticise Mr. Bowles in horticultural matters ; but if the book has a fault, it is that in places it has a tendency to be rather too botanical, and especially in the chapter on Crocuses, which extends to thirty- two pages. Some of the differences in species are so minute as to remind us of water-marks, &c., in postage stamps. It is only fair to bear in mind that Mr. Bowles has been dubbed " Rex Crocorum," and perhaps he felt in writing the chapter that he must live up to the title con- ferred on him. He writes with such enthusiasm on Crocuses that he hopes to induce others to follow in his footsteps, as he no doubt will, especially as readers are told how to raise hybrids and how to treat them from seed-saving time. Mr. Bowles acknowledges gratefully the gifts of plants he has had made to him, and it is evident that he possesses the true gardening spirit of giving freely to others instead of selling all he can, as is the custom of some " amateur " gardeners. There is every promise of Myddelton House possessing a garden which will (if it does not now) rival Canon EUacombe's ; in fact, it is evident that it is stored with treasures, which thrive under intelligent cultivation. It is gratifying to see that Mr. Bowles is not an advocate for size alone in flowers, as his remarks on page 123 to the effect that he does not want to sit under the trumpet of a Daffodil during a shower and that a small man might feel nervous looking down some of the Daffodil trumpets, which bid fair to become as large as gramophone mouthpieces, are most amusingly written. Mr. Bowles takes his readers through his garden and describes his treasures so realistically that one almost feels one's self in his company and sees the plants before one. The outcome of this book will be that the author will receive innumerable requests from readers to be allowed to see his garden ; and while some enthusiasts will be welcomed by him, he may be plagued, as Dean Hole was, by some people who will persist in talking " about the newes.t baby or discussing the latest scandal." The chapter on Tulips is especially full of interest, but not a word is said in favour of Tulipa mauriana, one of the most brilliant and lasting of Tulips, and purchasable withal for 5s. a hundred. Van Tubergen rightly describes it as " a magnificent Tulip." We are loth to close the book, which every true gardener should read and read again. Like the author's garden, it is a thing of beauty and a joy for ever, and, considering how artistically it is illustrated and how well it is printed, the book should command a large sale. EDITORIAL NOTICES. Even/ department of korticulttire is represented in The Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions relating to matters itpon which they wish expert adviee. The Editor tvekomes photographs, articles and notes, but he ivill not be responsible for their safe return. All reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted contributions. As regards photographs, if payment is desired, the Editor asks that the price required for reproduction be plainh/ stated. It must be distirictlij understood that only the artual photo- grapher or owner of the copyright ivill be treated u'ith. The Editor ivill not be responsible for the return of artistic or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone be recognised as acceptance. Offices : 20, Tavistock Street. Covent Garden, W.C. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. ball of soil attached to the root?, and plaat them in fairly rieh soil in tlic frame early in September. ROSE GARDEN. MANURE FOR ROSES (ii.).— Good fnrmyard manun- may be applied to Kose-bcds now, or a mixture of 3lb. of superpnosphate and lib. of nitrate or sulphate of ammonia may be applied per rod at an early date. The specimen sent for determination is the Cornel, or Cornelian Cherry (Cornus Alas). ROSE HELENE (D. C. S.).— This is one of the multiflora lloscs, a sccdlinti of Crimson Kambler, producinij: fine trusses of flowers of a delicate rosy pink colour. You sliould pen down last year's growths, tliose that arc well ripened ; then, when they liave blossomed, cut them away s;o as to cncoiiraae other trrowths for.pejjcinc down next year. The pest is probably the larvae of the daddy-lont;- iei^s. Give the soil a dressing of Kleenzoil.an excellent soil insecticide, to be obtained of Messrs. W. Voss and Co., Carlton Works, Millwall, London. PRUNING A PENZANCE BRIAR HEDGE (R. A. S.).~- As the bcdye was planted in -November last, we sliould advise you, if the plants were fairly bushy, to cut down close to the crouud one or two of the jrrowths, and the remainder retain almost full len^^h. This will prevent what you fear — a thinness at the ba«e. Where the growths retained are pliant enouch, some eould be spread out a little out of the perpendicular, which would have the tendency to produce basal growths mthout reducing the height of the hedge. In order to do this, a few unobtrusive stakes could be inserted. In subsequent years cut down one or two growths annually. If you desire a tall hedge, a few stout posts should be inserted and some wires attached so that you can secure the growihs into something like order and, at the same time, enable you to spread them out for the object pre\'iously mentioned. As regards pruning weeping wictniraiana Hoses the first season, it is best to leave them almost intact, excepting to remove unripe ends. Open out the growths upon a frame of wire or Bamboo. After the first blossoming you should then cut away several of the growtlis quite close to their base; the result of so doinc will be to encourage new gTO\"ths. which will be for next year's blossoming. Do not defer cutting out the growths later than the end of July. • '• My Garden in Spring.'* by E. A. Bowhis, M.A. prire 5s. net. London : Messrs. T. C. and E. C. Jack. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor intends to make THE Garden helpful to all readers who desire assist, ance, no matter ichat the branch of gardening may be, and with that object ivill make a special feature of the "Answers to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only^ and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20. Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. lA'tterg on busi7iess should be sent to the Pfblishek. FLOWER GARDEN. VIOLET PRINCESS OF WALES (York).— The small- ncss of the ilowers, which is rather cunnuon this season in this variety, may be the result of three causes : 1. The plants may not have been vigorous when put in the frame, owing to want of manure in the soil where growing in the open. Tlie smallness of the leaves rather bears this out ; or the plants may have had an attack of red spider last summer, which would check their growth. 2. The growth of runners is all against size of bloom. These should he kept off the plants at all stages of their growth, inside and outside. 3. Have the plants sulfered for want of water in the frames ? If so. that would hinder size being obtained. The great point about growing Violets, double or single, lies in the preparation of the plants before placing them in the frame. Early in April break up into small pieces the old plants that have llowi iLd, rejecting the central or worn-out portions. Transplanl these in a fairly rich soil in an open site and a foot apart. Encourage free growth by supplying water as required, constantly stirring the soil about the plants. Remove all runners as fast as they appear, which will add strength to the plants. Lift with a good MISCELLANEOUS. LEAF-HOPPERS {Sussex).^ThG little insects on your plants are leaf-hoppers, and often troublesome to a variety of plants. They are very tenacious of life, and difficult to eradicate when once they have obtained a footing. Spraying with a nicotine wash in the evening would, no doubt, kill a large number, but one spraying alone would not be likely to be etfective. The best method, however, would be fumigating with one of the excellent fumigants now to be obtained, and a repetition of the fumigation within two or three days, and possibly a third, for even fumigation will fail to kill eggs of such pests. APPLYING LIME AND CARBONATE OF LIME (G. B. P.). — Ground quick (or unslaked) lime may be used in the autumn, but it would be rather dangerous to use it now. especially so if the Rose trees arc already planted; oilierwJM' it is the best form in which to apply lime to a tiea\y soil. Carbonate of lime may, however, be used without fear, and will liavc a Iwneftcial elfect. Purchase it in the form of ground chalk as finely ground as you can get it, or as brokcn-up oyster-sliells. " Ground garden lime " is a term which conveys no distinct meaning. So long as the stable manure is immediately forked in, it may be added, although lime has been applied. The advice not to add the two together is given because caustic lime, brought in contact with ammonia-containing substances, such as stable manure, leads to the giving olf of ammonia into the air. If the manure is buried, any ammonia civen off would be absorbed by the earth. If stable manure can be procured, we advise you to use that, for artificial manures never have quite the same beneficial ett'ect ujion the physical condition of the soil as does stable manure. LABOUR FOR FORTY-ACRE ESTATE {E. D.).— The amount of labour required would of necessity vary according to the class of .soil, the nature of the land — Hat or otherwise — the acreage set apart for flower gardening, and other things. The amount of labour, too, cannot be regulated by the size of an estate ; it is wliat is demanded from it that swallows up labour most of all. A kitcheii garden of nine or ten acres of licht soil on level ground would require about five men, and of lieavy soil about seven. The degree of tidiness required is also a factor to be reckoned with. In all the circumst-anccs, so far as we know them, seeing only *' reasonable order " is expected and no glass or bcdding-out arrangements are mentioned, twenty-five men miglit prove sufficient. We give this opinion, however, with some diffidence ; and only after a personal knowledge of tlie estate and what is demanded of it could even an approximately correct answer bo given. For the tree stumps you cannot do better than use wichuraiana Roses if the stumps are larue, or, if not, the smaller-growing Ivies and Clematis JMrUmannii nr C. Viticella in variety. Azara microphylla. I'.ii.iiiynni-' radicans variegata and Cotoneastcr horizoutalis would also provt! serviceable. NAMES OF PLANTS.— ScoHts/i Gardener.— The Violet is Amiral Avellan, exceptionally well grown. Pigeon Ilou^e. — Sisyrinchiura grandiflorum (Spring Bill). E. M. D., Kent. — Cyclamen per.cic\m\ flmbriatum.— — Mrs. G.— Tulipa chisiana (L\dy Tulip). /?. 0. B.-—\, Coronllla glauca ; 2, Escallonia macruntha ; 3. Berberis Darwinii ; 4, Leucojum pulchellum; 5, cjinnot name with- out tlowi'rs ; 6, Berberis stenophylla. NAME OF FRUIT.— G. IF. j'eni-ms.— Annie Eliz;ibeth. ^fe3?i. GARDEN. -5^5"- No. 22II.— Vol. LXXVIII. April 4, 1914. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Transplanting Pampas Grass. — Anyone desirous of transplanting or dividing this noble ornamental plant will find the present time suitable. It will be found advisable to trim off the leaves first, as this makes the dividing of the clump much easier. Some people set fire to the old leaves, and this is, perhaps, the simplest method, but the fire must be kept under so that the plant is not damaged. The burnt appearance will soon be hidden by new growth. Transplanting or Dividing Hardy Ferns.— Now ttat the period of rest for hardy Ferns is passing and the roots are getting active for the new spring growth, it is time to take in hand any trans- planting or dividing that may be required. The active state of the roots and the absence of tender and easily damaged fronds enable the plants to speedily establish themselves after re- moval. A good mulch- ing of decayed manure and leaves after planting is done will be very beneficial. Top-Dressing and Planting Asparagus. — Established beds should now be gone over and top-dressed with a mix- ture of loam and decayed manure, forking a little of the same material into the alleys. Where it is intended to make a new plantation, the present is a good time for this work. In ground suitable for this vege- table it is a good plan to make a sowing about this time, which in many cases subsequently does better than if one ■or two year old crowns were planted. Rose Conference at Biarritz. — The eighteenth annual conference of the French Rose Growers' Society will be held at Biarritz from May 29 to June I in conjunction with the Societe d'Acclima- tation du Golfe de Gascogne. The programme is an interesting one, for, besides tlie ordinary sittings of the conference, there will be receptions, dinners and other festivities, the chief of which are excursions to King Alfonso's Palace of Miramar at San Sebastian ; to Fuentarrabia, a quaint old town close by ; a mountain excursion to the Gorges du Pas de Roland ; and to Cambo, the country of M. E. Rostand. An Easily Grown Rock Plant. — Draba Aizoon is now flowering freely, the small tufts being almost hidden by the golden flowers. It is to be regretted that such an easily grown and readily increased plant is not seen more often in the crevices of rockwork or similar places, for which it and the well-known British species, D. aizoides, are especially suited. Both kinds seed freely, and, if the seeds are sown at once, plants are quickly pro- duced large enough to handle for inserting in old walls or niches in the rockery, where they make a bright early display. Primula denticulata and Its Varieties. — In many gardens these Primulas are flowering to perfection. They are among the earliest of the PRIMULA DENTICULATA ALBA, A CHARMING VARIETY THAT FLOWERS IN EARLY SPRING. hardy Primulas to open, and the heads of lilac and white flowers often show colour as early as February. It is in the early days of April when they are seen at their best, and they are particularly effective when planted in breadths in short grass about the alpine garden. These Primulas like moist positions, but the soil must be well drained, for nothing is more certain to bring about failure than stagnant water about the roots. The best varieties of P. denticulata are alba and cashmeriana, the latter having violet flowers with yeljov/ ryes. P. denticulata is a native of the Himalayas, rather like P. capitata in habit, but the flowers are larger and different in colour. An Interesting Parasite. — Although Lathraja clandestina is a parasite, it claims attention as one of the curious and not unlovely plants that may be grown in garden or woodland where it is fairly moist and shaded. It usually grows on the roots of Willows and Poplars, but whether, it is confined to these we cannot say, and at this season it pushes to the surface of the ground a, great number of flowering shoots, sometimes covering from 2 feet to 3 feet square. These, are a mass of whitish scales at first, from which erect flowers with a purple corolla, ij inches long, are produced. These are not easily compared with other flowers. The upper lip forms a kind of cowl over the stamens, and the lower one a pro- jecting bracket, upon which insects may alight to enter the flower. Large masses that are flowering , in the Cambridge Botanic Garden now are of considerable interest to visitors. The Lesser Peri-; winkle. — This . plant,: Vinca minor, is of a most accommodating nature, for it will succeed under,- very varied conditions. In the first place, it is at, home clothing a sunny bank, in which position it is, just now flowering freely ; next, it is well suited for carpeting the groimd underneath trees ; and, lastly, very few evergreens will hold their own in the smoky dis- tricts of London as well as this does. It will succeed there, in situa- tions where the larger Periwinkle (Vinca major) will. die out. When in a healthy state, the foliage, of the lesser Periwink'.e,, is of a rich green colour, and the blue flowers, nestling among it have a very pretty effect. Freesia Contrast. — A bunch of this in a vase is very bright and light looking. The three smaV,er segments of the perianth have a great deal of deep orange marking upon them; in fact, the centre and smallest one of the three is almost all orange. The rest of the flower is ivory white. A potful in a greenhouse makes a good show. Like most of these hybrids,, the individual plants branch much more than the old F. refracta alba, and Contrast is no exception to the rule. It increases freely, so, although it is expensive to buy in any quantity at present, a small stock, will soon provide plenty for cutting and for pots. i . . 166 THE GARDEN. [April 4, 1914. CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is not responsible /or the opinions expressed by correspondents.) Road Sand : A Caution.— At one time the sion of alj others. I keep in mind the French Viola Jackanapes. — In your issue dated March 28 a correspondent, Mr. T. Smith, says he is unable to obtain Viola Jackanapes. This variety is offered by Messrs. Forbes of Hawick in their 1913 catalogue at 2s. 6d. per dozen or 15s. per himdred, so 1 expect they still catalogue it, and if your correspondent is anxious to get it, he should apply to this firm. — C. M Bailey. Plums from the Cape. — The article in your issue of March 14, page 135, on Japanese or Cape Plums was most interesting, and while in one part of the article Mr. Bunyard rather suggests that to grow these Plums (as from experiments already made in this country out of doors) would be a failure, yet at the end of his article he as much as says that they would be a success on walls. I am writing, therefore, to enquire whether any readers of The Garden have ever succeeded with these Plums on walls out of doors, and whether the crops have been worth the space on the walls ? — W. F. M. CopEi.AND. Erica carnea on Limestone Soil. — In your issue of March 14 you ask for further information as to the behaviour of Erica carnea in limestone soil. Some years ago I planted it and its white variety on a small limestone rockery, the soil of which consists almost entirely of old mortar rubbish. I found that it throve far too well for the space accorded it, and I was obliged tn remove it to make room for plants of less vigorous 1 l^_ growth. It is a pity that any of 5'our readers I should avoid growin g this beautiful little shrub ^ " "~ - - (in my opinion the best of the Ericas) owing to the mistaken notion that it shares with others of its tribe a dislike to lime in the soil. ■ — Norman RusHWORTH, Beechfield, Walton-OH-Thames. Lime for Lawns.— A correspondent asks in your issue of March 21 what effect lime has upon lawns and the amount to be applied. I would say that nearly all old lawns would be benefited by a dressing of lime, especially if the turf were mossy. Old lawns are often inclined to be sour, and, of course, it is well known that lime corrects the acitiity of the soil. Again, where manures are used containing a large proportion of nitrogen, the soil will become surcharged with it and the turf will suffer. A dressing of lime will set free the ammonia, and thus turn what was harmful into useful plant food. Lime, however, should not be used too often, or it will impoverish the soil. I should say that in cases where the turf was regularly fed with artificial manure, once in three or four years would be sufficient. In cases where no manure was given, a dressing once in six years would be often enough. Slaked lime, finely ground, should be used, and it sh< uld be evenly spread on a still day at the rate of 30Z. per square yard. Autumn is the best time to apply it, so that th' winter rains may put it all out of the way befoie mowing commerces in the spring. — J. Duncan Pearson, Lowdliam, Notts. sweepings of the roads were looked upon as of great service to the plant cultivator, being not only spread upon the land, but also freely mixed with potting soils. Now, with the increased use of chemicals on the roads and the fact that motors have to a great exFent taken the place of horses, it is frequently dangerous to use road sweepings in growing plants of any kind. — H. P. The Leopard Moth. — Six weeks ago I was pruning an orchard of trees which are six years old. As I was taking off some suckers from the scion where it was grafted, I discovered a hole eaten in the scion. Naturally, I examined it carefully, as the tree appeared to be in good health. I cut the tree do«-n and found the hole was eaten up the main stem. I discovered a very large grub, which is, at the present time, embedded in the Apple stem I have enclosed. You will see how it is discharging the wood it is living on. — William Gaiger, The College saying that each one has a right to satisfy his own tastes, and allow for personal proclivities, even for those of " G.' L. J.," and trust in the future he or she may be able to increase by twofold at least the period of the season of bloom, which is coincident to the strength of the plant, including increase of stature. In reply to " F. R. H. S.," I grew Cottage Maid some years ago, and found the name represented eleven colour variations. It has probably improved since. — R. P. Brotherston. Myosotidium nobile. — It may interest your correspondent Mr. Brotherston, whose note appears on page 142, March 21 issue, to know that the New Zealand Forget-me-not is quite a success in the open in South-West Scotland. The plants flowered and set seed freely last season ; but, not having tested the seed, I cannot answer regarding the fertility of it. It is said that in its native isle this plant is to be found growing on damp sand by the seaside ; therefore it is advis- able, when preparing a site for it, to take out a hole about two feet square and fill it with sea sand. Like many other thick, fleshy-rooted plants, this is most impatient of root disturbance. A fine illustration of this appears here in a plant that was transplanted two yearj ago and given no sea sand ; it seems to have made no growth since then. Some writers describe this as a beautiful blue, but the flowers here do not warrant that description, being very pale. The reason may be that this is a variable plant, in that there may be various shades of blue. Apart from its flowers, it is a highly ornamental plant for the garden during the spring and summer, with its large, heart - shaped leaves and curious seed-heads. The plants here are growing in a cool, damp position on the north side of a dense Beech hedge, which seems to suit them admirably. At the time of writing (March 2i)there are many flower-heads appearing, which were exposed to the following frost with- out in any way damag- ing either flower-buds or foliage ; March 9, 15° ; March 10, 8° (thermo- meter on the grass). 1 Gardens, Stndlcy Castle, Warwickshire. [The 1 have no doubt it would prove sufficiently hardy SECTION OF APPLE SHOOT BORED BY LARV^ OF THE LEOPARD MOTH AND SHOOT HAVE BEEN SLIGHTLY ENLARGED. THE GRUB grub sent by Mr. Gaiger, and illustrated here- with, is that of the leopard moth, Zeuzera ^sculi. This is a rather large moth, with wings of white grotmd colour, freely spotted with roundish blue-black dots. These moths are not very common, though widely distributed over this country. The grubs may be killed by thrusting a stout wire up the gallery that has been formed. Branches that have been attacked often live for years and bear good crops of fruit. — Ed.] Tall Antirrhinums. — It is obvious that " G. L. J.," whose note appears on page 142, issue March 21, has never seen really tall Snapdragons, else the comparison to monstrosities would not have been made. In my opinion they are the grandest of all Snapdragons, and almost rival the Hollyhock in stately beauty. The only varieties for which I entertain a feeling bordering on contempt are those of the dwarf section, yet many people grow these to the exclu- in many colder districts than this is if it was given the protection of a little dry hay or Bracken and a bell-glass over the crowns during severe weather. — R. Findlay, The Gardens, Logan, Stranraer. When in Cornwall last week I called at the beautifully situated gardens of Enys, and, seeing Myosotidium nobile in such grand condition, 1 asked Mr. Frost, the gardener, to give me particulars of treatment. He stated : " As you see, the New Zealand Forget-me-not grows very freely here under a north wall, in peat and sand, with a dressing of seaweed in early winter. It flowers grandly, and produces seed in more or less quantity, according to the summer, from self- fertilised flowers. The seeds ripen in August, and germinate quickly in cold frames if sown as soon as gathered. The young plants have been uninjured by 10° of frost, and the plants are evergreen." — North Somerset. April 4, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 167 Triteleia uniflora as a Pot Plant.— After the very interesting little note and illustration of Triteleia uniflora in your issue of March 14, I am wondering if many of your readers try it as a pot plant for flowering early in the year, with a little heat. I have grown it as such for about twelve years, and find it very useful for. furnishing the front of the stages, also for standing around Palms in vases in the house, as the leaves droop over the sides and look very pretty. I generally use 3-inch pots, with about seven or eight bulbs in each ; just pot them in the autumn and stand them in a cold frame till the growths are about an inch or 2 inches long, and then take them straight into a house with a temperature of about 60°. They dn not seem to mind a little forcing. I have found they can be ripened off in their pots and potted up again in the autumn. — E. Barber, The Gardens, Brentor Hall, Surbiton. Lachenalias as Room Plants.^l have read with much interest the note in The Garden, page T42, March 21 issue, by the Rev. J. Jacob on the culture of Lachenalia Nelsonii as a room plant. I agree with liim. Few take the trouble to grow them well, but I am sure any gardener whi' has not given them a trial would find them most useful plants during February and March for room and table decoration. I have grown these pretty Cape Cowslips, as they are called, for forty years. At the present time I have about two dozen pots of L. Nelsonii in flower. They are equally good for baskets, planted in moss and soil, and look very dainty when suspended from the roof of a greenhouse, but they must be well supplied with water. I think the reason why so many do not succeed in growing them well is that they do not pay enough attention to ripening off the bulbs, which I consider is so necessary for successful culture. — W. Driver, Stonelionse, Gloucestershire. Cold Storage for Cut Roses. — A correspondent asks for information about cold storage for exhibition Roses. This is adopted, I believe, by some of the American florists, and undoubtedly there is much to be said in its favour from a florist's point of view. I should imagine, however, that it would scarcely work beneficially for the exhibitor, because as a rule he has to contend with the wretchedly ventilated canvas tents that are so trying to the Rose. I think its success would much depend upon the time of year and the atmosphere the flowers were placed in after leaving the cold storage. I remember, many years ago, that some cut specimens of new Roses were sent over from the United States in cold storage, and they were exhibited in London as fresh-looking as though only just cut. But this was in the winter-time. I can see the advantage to a Rose exhibitor of using cold storage if the blooms would not show blemishes after being taken out, which I much fear, as some Roses might be taken from one show to another. Besides, we could retard a bloom for a certain show day. If this is ever adopted it will make a considerable difference to our ex- hibitions. Perhaps some of our amateur enthusiasts will experiment and give in these columns their conclusions. — Danecroft. Perpetual-flowering Carnations for Bedding. — The very beautiful beds of these charming flowers which are sometimes seen leads one to hope that before long they will figure very largely in im- portant schemes of bedding. At present there are only two or three varieties which are used to any great extent for bedding purposes ; but there is no doubt that these will be considerably augmented. Last, year I used Mrs. Burnett and Britannia. The former was planted in a bed by itself, over a groundwork of Sweet Alyssum. Part of the plants used had already done good service by flowering all through the winter months. The plants were partly cut down in March and placed in a light structure till the beginning of May, when they were subjected to a course of hardening off, together with some smaller plants which were struck the previous autumn for the purpose of bedding. Towards the end of June they com- menced flowering, and continued to flower pro- fusely till frost appeared late in the autumn. The variety Britannia was planted in a mixed bed of border kinds, and if any evidence was needed to convince one that the perpetual kinds will one day reign supreme outdoors, it was to be found here. Apart from the perpetual nature of its flowering, the colour and form of the flowers of Britannia were equal to any of the border kinds. I have not tried any other varieties outdoors, but I presume that the drawback with most is that their flowers will not stand the vagaries of our c'imate. But no doubt the Carnation hybridists will before long present us with varieties which will overcome this difficulty. — E. Harriss, Lockinge. Aster Disease. — I can fully substantiate the remarks of " F. M. S." on the advisability of treating Asters as hardy annuals. For many years I have made it a practice to sow Asters in the open ground at the latter end of April or the first week in May, although, owing to insuffi- ciency of space, I have not been able to allow all to stand where sown. There is no questioning the fact that Asters never do so well as when grown without a check; and in transplanting at a late stage the plants certainly get a severe check, especially if dry weather follows planting. The practice of sowing in the open is the recognised system in the United States of America ; and nowhere in the world are Asters grown on so gigantic a scale and in such phenomenally good forin as in America. Fully ten years ago I was in the habit of sowing my seed in the open, and it is astonishing to me why so many are addicted to sow Asters under glass in heat. During my connection with a Midland firm we always made trial sowings of annua's in the open, and I have never seen better Ten- week Stocks than these late April sowings produced. I do not agree with " F. M. S.'s " policy of non-thinning. If he handled such varieties of ."Asters as Peerless Pink, Violet King and the various late branching forms, and desired to see them run to their 2J feet to 3 feet limit, with flowers up to 7 inches, he would find it necessary to give a full foot of space. Regarding the immunity from disease of open-air sown plants, this is largely, if not entirely, due to the fact that the seedlings do not get leggy in their early stage. " F. M. S.," by avoiding trans- planting, entirely guards against the possibility of the plants being set too deeply. On no account must any foliage be allowed to touch the soil. The lower leaves, if not c'ear of the ground, should be removed, otherwise these commence to decay and stem-rot follows. Plenty of lime in the ground is essential. — T. W., Kent. SEASONABLE NOTES ON AURICULAS. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. April 6. — United Horticultural Benefit and Provident Society's Committee Meeting. April 7. — Royal Horticultural Society's Exhi- bition. Lecture at 3 p.m. on " The Cultivation of Amaryllis." Scottish Horticultural Association's Meeting. THE month of April will prove whether the grower has been successful or other- wise. A few of the alpine varieties will begin to open their flowers, and. by the end of the month a fine display will be the rule in the majority of collections. Few plants can equal Auriculas for richness of colour, and they are still among the choicest of flowers that bloom at this season. Watering. — The plants should be looked over daily for watering purposes, as they are now most active, and the weather will also cause them to dry more quickly than hitherto. Dryness at the root must be avoided, or the flowers will be ruined. A little more attention will be neces- sary in regard to shading, and the blooms must be protected by a thin blind from all strong sun- light, although, when the flowers commence to expand, the early morning sun will he of consider- able benefit. Ample ventilation should be given and the frames kept quite cool to prolong the life of the spikes. Preparing Plants for Exhibition.— The follow- ing remarks are not intended for the exclusive use of exhibitors, and the reader will notice that some of the instructions given are just as necessary for the amateur who keeps his plants at home- as for the man who exhibits. In most instances- a neat little green stick should be placed to each: stem, and this is best done in the early stages of growth, before the stalk is bent over by the weight of the flowers, and the pips, as they are called by- the florists, will in some cases require adjusting,, so as to show off the truss to the greatest advantage. Where the trusses are very dense, it will be necessary to thin the buds, removing two or three at a time with a pair of tweezers or small scissors.. With the alpines a lot of thinning is not carried out, but the show varieties are subjected to more severe treatment, especially the greens, greys and whites. If the exhibitor can secure four or five good flowers upon a stem, he is usually satisfied. They must not be crowded, and each flower should be- as perfect as possible. The selfs are also thinned, but a few more- flowers can be allowed to develop if the plant is strong. The grower must use discretion im these matters, and if he allows sufficient space to- prevent undue overcrowding, a fine truss of blooms, will be the result. See that the pots are clean,, a clearly written label in each pot (or the reporter may overlook your exhibit), and a layer of fresh moss around each plant. Be very careful in handling the plants, so as not to bruise the flowers, or disturb the farina on the leaves and stems. Saving Seed. — Where the beginner desires fo> save some seed with the object of securing a few- good varieties, it will be necessary for him to- work on some such lines as given below. With the show varieties a green edge should be enoss- fertilised with another green-edgerl kind, a grey~ edge should be mated with another grey edge,, and a white edge with a white edge. In the selfs the colours should be kept together as far as possible, and with alpines a gold-centred variety can be pollinated with another go'd-centred kind, and so on. Having selected a flower to be fertilised, the anthers must be removed in the early stages before the pollen is ripe, and if the plant is held in a downward position, they will rr.-^dily fall to> the ground. T. W. Briscoe. 168 THE GARDEN. [April 4. 1914. DAFFODIL NOTES. The Season. — Winter has paid his annual visit to the British Isles this year in March instead of January. As George Stephenson said of the hypothetical cow in front of a railway train, it is " bad " for Daffodils when this icy, boisterous visitor catches them, as it were, off their guard. They do not like it. They feel that the Clerk of the Weather, who is supposed to arrange all these visits, has " taken them in." They cannot do much to show their resentment, so they just sulk and we get small flowers and short stems. I ruminate thus to let our friends elsewhere know what sort of a beginning we have had with our outdoor season. And yet the next Royal Horticultural Society's Tuesday meeting comes along, and there, at any rate, there are few signs of the unwelcome visitor. Flowers at the Royal Horti- cultural Society's Show on March 24. — " Wilson is e.xhibit- ing " has to Daffodil persons much the same effect as " Glad- stone is up " used to have on members of the House of Com- mons. They are seldom, if ever, disappointed, for a Wilson exhibit is always full of good new things. It was no exception on March 24. Perhaps the dis- tinguishing feature was the fine new series of the Schoot type of Poetaz that have been raised by Mr. P. D. Williams of St. Keveme, Cornwall. He is our principal English raiser of this bunch-flowered class. His Rubel- lite and Luoasta are both of them remarkable developments, in that they give us such red eyes with such fine white perianths. Rubellite I described last year, and it is also in the taovelty list of the 1913 Year Book. The solid red eye, re- ilieved in the very centre by the green top of the perianth tube, resting on a pure white perianth about two and a-half inches in diameter, is very delightful. This pleasing impression is further enhanced by the three or four large blooms being so arranged on the stem that they do not Jostle and put one another too much out of shape. Lucasta is similar, but the eye is a trifle smaller and more suffused than solid ; that is to say, its centre is of a much more orange shade than the circumference. -At a little distance away I almost thought it looked " rimmed." Personally, I think I admired it more than Rubellite. It depends how far one leans to the all red. Ossian •was the only other on e that was named. It features the Polyanthus Narcissus more than the others, .and in my opinion was not to be compared to •the other two, although its orange-toned large •eye was efiective. There were several others lunder number. Some I did not like and some I did. In the latter category was a distinctly good all yellow, which I think will develop into something useful, but I cannot remember if it had a long enough stalk. The other outstanding featiure of the group was an early edition of the now well-known Buttercup, but two weeks earlier to bloom and of a much deeper shade of yellow, following in this its mother King Alfred, as Butter- cup does Emperor. The committee gave it a garden and a cutting award. As a show flower it does not come up to the older variety. Its measurements are 3I inches diameter of the perianth, li inches length of cup, and r inch width at top. The "loving" eye, the eye of the man who observes and asks and thinks, must NARCISSUS RUBELLITE OF THE POETAZ SECTION. THE FLOWERS ARE PURE WHITE WITH A DEEP RED EYE. have observed with a considerable amount of surprise No. 153, quite a nice bicolor, with a green water-mark down the middle of each petal, like the yellow down the centre of the segments of many Tulips. Not a Conqueror certainly, but withal something to have in one's garden among the early yellows and the early red cups. These are becoming fairly common, but bicolors are still rare. Tita, which was another fine thing in this collection, is one of the above-named early rod cups, and of so much value for the garden and cutting that the committee gave it an .Tward. It has a suffused cup and a good yellow perianth. Size, 4 inches by five-eighths of an inch by three-quarters of an inch. Both Beryl and Bernardino were shown in superlative condition. An exhibit of a totally diflerent style was that put up by Messrs. Bath of Wisbech. Roughly speaking, two-thirds consisted of well- gro-wn Tulips in bow's, and one-third of a select, fresh-looking little lot of rather choice Daffodils. Flame occupied the central position, and on account of the way in which my good friend Mr. Bennett-Poe cracked it up a fortnight before, I had a specially good look at it. To all intents and purposes it is an enlarged and intensified Barrii conspicuus. Mr. Leak told me it was not doing it justice to form an opinion from the blooms that I saw. It would be on view again before the end of the season. Hence I wait, as my readers must also, before I make a final pronouncement. Eastern .Maid was the one absolutely new variety to be seen there. I know nothing of its parentage, but its general shape betokens a touch of cyclamineus in its composition. It has the thrown-back petals which are so suggestive. These are wide and pointed, and of a delicate greenish primrose shade, which is very taking. The cup is narrowish and long, pale yellow in colour. It was presented to the com- mittee, who in return presented it with an award of merit as a show bloom. I like it very much. It would ornament any •■ fifty." I am told there is a small stock of it, so perchance it may be " buyable " before long. Of the exhibits of Messrs. Barr, Mr. Bourne, and Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin I will wTite next week. Registration of Names.— The new Classification List is now out, .and can be obtained for a shilling from the Royal Horticultural Society, Vincent Square, Westminster. Mr. C. H. Curtis, the secretary of the Daffodil committee, is going to put up a list of all the fresh names sent in for registration at the fortnightly meetings ol the committee. The first 01. e was put up on March 24, and contained sixteen. This is an excellent idea, for which we owe our secretary many thanks. It is provoking to fix on a name and find it taken. But as the number of seedlings becomes greater and greater, we all find it more difficult to avoid pitfalls; hence the utility of this publicity. Joseph Jacob. [In our next issue the Rev. Joseph Jacob will con- tinue his observations on the Daffodils shown at the Royal Horticultural Society's show on March 24, while brief descriptive notes on the four Narcissi to gain awards appear on page 172. The illustration of Narcissus Rubellite is reproduced by the courtesy of Mr. P. D. Williams of St. Keverne, Cornwall. — Ed.] April 4, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 169 SEASONABLE NOTES ON PEACHES & NECTARINES. Trees Under Glass. — Although the trees are hardy when allowed to grow naturally on open walls in this country, the forced growth of the trees under glass must not be checked by careless ventilation during . frosty nights and while east winds prevail. If the ventilation of the structure is perfect, it is wonderful how well these fruit trees thrive in an unheated house. In heated houses the growth of the trees is now quite forward. On every day that promises to be bright and sunny, the fires must be stopped about nine o'clock in the morning. A little top ventilation will be beneficial, but no front ventilation should be given at present. The borders and paths ought to be damped in the early part of the day and again after noon, the ventilators being closed between three and four o'clock. The young fruits will be quite prominent and the first thinning must be done. This will consist of the removal of ill-placed and small fruits ; the largest ones on the fore part of each branch must be left now, to be reduced in number at a later date. The young shoots are several inches long, and the final thinning of them must not be delayed any longer. On a shoot from 1 8 inches to 2 feet in length, three young ones should be left, namely, one at the point, one near the centre, and one quite at the base. On shorter branches leave two young shoots, namely, one at the point and one at the base. Syringe daily ; twice on fine days — once early in the day and again when the house is closed. The thorough wetting of the leaves keeps them free from red spider and thrip, and, furthermore, promotes a healthy growth. As a further preven- tive of red spider, scatter a little soot on the border at syringing time in the afternoon. This should be done about once a week. The ammonia arising from the soot is beneficial to ^ BUSH OF the Peaches, and prevents the spread of red spider. Trees in the Unheated House.— These will require the same treatment as those in heated structures, except in the matter of damping and syringing. Less water must be sprayed on the path and border, and only on very fine days must there be an afternoon syringing as yet. The gradual disbudding of shoots and fruits must be done while both are small. Trees Trained on Open Walls. — The blossom must be protected from frosts. Pull down the scrim, tiffany or nets in the daytime if heavy rains I ire vail and there seems to be danger from frost at night. Frost does more damage when the flowers are wet than when they are quite dry. It is beneficial to continue the protection of the tiny fruits for about ten days. George Garner. HARDY SHRUBS FOR THE GREENHOUSE. IN the depth of winter a few of our hardy shrubs, such as the Laurustinus, Jasminum nudiflorum. Erica camea, &c., with such berry-bearers as Skimmias, Aucubas and Pemettyas, contribute their share to the embellishment of the greenhouse. It is, however, in the early months of the year that this structure depends largely for its show of blossoms upon hardy shrubs that have been forced prematurely into bloom. This practice of forcing shrubs is now greatly on the increase, and immense numbers are grown specially for the purpose. WHITE LILAC MARIE LEGRAYE. VARIETY FOR FORCING. THIS IS A Of the different subjects, perhaps the most popular of all are the Azaleas, of which there is now a great variety available. The compact-growing Azalea mollis, which flowers in great profusion, has for the most part blossoms of some shade of terra-cotta ; but there are some improved forms, notably the rich yellow Anthony Koster. The Ghent Azaleas are also amenable to forcing, though they are not so generally employed as A. mollis. In the Ghent kinds the flowers are, as a rule, smaller, but the range in colour is more extensive than in A. mollis, while they have also a more pronounced perfume. Next to these may be mentioned their near allies, the Rhododendrons, which are very showy imder glass. Many of them, however, do not force readily, as, if kept too warm, the flowers will grow blind. Good kinds lor the purpose aie R. arboreum wellsianum, R. Blanche Superbe, R. caucasicum album (Cunningham's White), R. c. pictum, R. mirabile, the different forms of R. nobleanum and R. Prince Camille de Rohan. Besides these, the small-growing kinds, such as R. praecox, R. Rosy Bell and R. Early Gem, are very readily forced. Many rosaceous plants contribute largely tO' the floral display in our shrubberies in early spring, and a great many of them will do well tmder glass. Among them may be mentioned the. double- flowered Peaches and Cherries, with several I of the smaller-growing forms of Pyrus. . Of all plants belonging to the order, there are no greater favourites for forcing than the double forms of Prunus japonica and P. triloba, both of which are grown for the piu"pose in very large , num- bers. Kerria japonica flore plena, with its rich golden blos- soms, like little Ros_es, must not be passed- over in any selection, while some of the Spiraeas claim to be included, the best being S. arguta, S. confusa and S. pruuifolia flore plena, this last being remarkable for its tiny double, rosette-like blossoms. Magnolias, too, are very strrking, not only such as M. Lennfii, with its large, chalice- like blossoms, but some of the smaller kinds, notably the charm- ing little M. steUata, so recently illustrated in The Garden. Lilacs are, and have been for many years, forced in large quantities. Immense numbers of sturdy little bushes bristling with flower-buds are sent to this country from the Continent every year. The single white Marie Legraye is the most popular of all. Another that is largely grown is Charles X. Of double- flowered kinds, Mme, Lemoine, white, is grown more than any other. Deutzia gracilis has for the last fifty years or more occupied a foremost place among shrubs for forcing, and at the present time its position is as secure as ever. Of the newer kinds, the larger-growing D. Lemoinei forms SPLENDID a very suitable companion to it. A subject that has come largely to the front withia recent years for flowering under glass is Wis- taria sinensis, as when this is grown in standard form the long, pendulous racemes of mauve- coloured blossoms form a very striking and distinct feature among its associates. Apart from the different subjects enumerated above, there are many others, all of which are, available for the same purpose. Among them may be mentioned the Brooms, Forsythia suspensa,. Weigelas, Staphylea colchica, the Guelder Rose and its Japanese form, with the orange-coloured Berberis Darwinii. A valuable shrub for green- house decoration, though it cannot be had in bloom early, is Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora, whose massive, pyramidal-shaped heads of cream- coloured flowers ars very ornamental. H. P. 170 THE GARDEN. [April 4, 1914. ANNUALS IN THE ROCK GARDEN. A' a general rule, the cock garden is pre- supposed to be a type of herbaceous border where only perennial plants may be grown, but amateur readers must realise that there are many annual flowering plants quite amenable to successful culture among the rocks and stones ; indeed, the introduction of a nice blending of colours by this means adds increased charm to the place, and without much trouble leads to a greatly enhanced appearance at ■certain times of the year. Where bulbous plants that bloom in spring are features of the place, annuals ■may be made to produce a succes- •sion of blossom. They can be sown dn the soil round the bulbs, or grown elsewhere and transplanted into position. Most suitable of all are the dwarfs, semi-dwarfs and trailing plants which are frequently grown in the garden, and, in genera., tb se that do not dislike a dry soil are most satisfactory. Half-hardy subjects (marked with an asterisk in the list) have to be (raised in a cold frame, but the others can quite well be sown where they are to grow. Personally, I pre- fer to grow them in the borders and transplant them in due season ; in sooth, I thin out my annuals with this idea in view. Sow the seeds rather thickly if the plants are to be grown continuously in the rock garden, in case bad rains in April may wash away some of the surface soil. Thin out the seedlings when they have made four true leaves. Here are some of the very finest varieties, selected mainly for bright- ness combined with massive effect : *Abronia umbellata, fragrant, lilac, trailer ; *Ageratum Dwarf Blue, very free-flowering ; Alyssum mari- timum, dwarf, white ; A. saxatile '(Gold Dust), yellow, both very fine ; *Arctotis breviscarpa, orange colour, suggestive of the Calendula ; Campanula attica, either in purple or in white varieties, profusely flowering dwarfs ; dwarf hybrid Candytufts, various varieties , Collomia coccinea, suggestive of the Bouvardia, scarlet and tall ; Eschscholtzia Mandarin compacta, a brilliant orange ; Gilia nivalis, white, and G. minima caerulea, beautiful blue, both 4 inches to 6 inches in height ; Godetia Bijou, the smallest of its class ; Gypsophila repens, red and white ; lonopsidium acaule, a close-growing, very dwarf plant, lilac ; Lepto- siphon androsaceus, pale purple ; Limnanthes 3Douglasii ; Kaulfussia amolloides, wliite, blue ■or crimson ; *Mesembryantheraum tricolor, must Ibe ,^rown in a sheltered, sunny nook ; *dwarf Kemesias, various, but only employ the most brilliant kinds ; Nemophila ; *Nyc.terinia capensis, white and blue dwarfs ; *Pansies and *Violas ; *Phlox Druramondii of the smaller sorts ; Platy- stemon californica, a kind of trailing Poppy with cream flowers ; *Portulaca, very dainty ; 'Salvia roemeriana, tine scarlet flowers ; Sanvitalia procum- bens of double sorts, yellow and crimson ; Sapouaria calabrica, rose or white ; •Schizanthus pinnatus, very floriferous ; Silene pendula compacta, various colours ; *Tagetes signata pumila, yellow gems ; Virginian Stock, fine in the mass, but be sure to get selected forms ; Veronica glauca ; and Whitlavia grandiflora, rather large. H. H. A. HALF-HARDY ANNUALS. T HERE are some very beautiful annuals which really only come to perfection when raised in gentle heat with a protective covering of glass, such as a greenhouse or frame affords, or simply in boxes covered with glass ; hence the name " half-hardy." Where space is limited or from other causes a greenhouse or frame is not available, the last-mentioned method will be found to answer admirably for many varieties if placed in a warm and sheltered aspect. SAXIFRAGA HAAGEI. When better known, this garden hybrid promises to be quite a favourite among early flowering A light frame is, however, a most useful adjunct I to any garden in this connection, and will repay its cost even during its first season. After raising young plants the frame top can be removed, some additional soil dug in, and the space used as open garden for the reception of some of our seedlings, thus econo- mising room. The writer has fre- quently gro-wn prize annuals in this way. It will be found good practice to sow seeds in shallow pots, pans or boxes which can be fairly easily handled. It is im- portant that these receptacles should be thoroughly well drained. Above coarse siftings of loamy turf, a mi.tture of fine soil and leaf-mould, with a good sprinkling of sharp sand, comprise a fertile seeding compost. A test for a good soil is that it does not clog when pressed together in the hand. The whole of the varieties given in this article may be used, after hardening off, in a similar capa- city to annuals of the hardy type, i.e., massed in small beds, each of a separate colour (a charming method where sufficient room is available), or in a mixed border among more permanent plants. Bearing in mind a few general principles, there should be every reason to expect success, the result being a garden of beauty and perfume. The interesting practica experience also gained by growing one's own plants will be found to be of great value, and withal fascinating. Not only that, but it adds credit to the garden, and, incidentally, to the gardener. It is best to sow very thinly in receptacles which have previously been lightly watered, covering the seeds with about their own thickness of soil passed through a small-meshed sieve. The seed-boxes should afterwards be kept slightly on the dry side, and, if those containing very small seeds absolutely require moisture, they should be stood for a time in vessels of water. An important factor is to prick out early, when two pairs of leaves have formed, to 3 inches or 4 inches apart, setting the plants in moist soil up to their seed leaves. If given plenty of air, kept near the glass and away from hot sun, sturdy plants should be the result. The following selections will be found to con- tain some of the best : Stocks. — Varieties of SAXIFRAGA HAAGEI. AN EARLY FLOWERING HYBRID FOR THE ROCK GARDEN, WITH DEEP YELLOW FLOWERS. Saxifrages. The flowers are bright yellow, rising about two inches above the soft green foliage. The flower-stems are red, and, when well grown, there are usually seven flowers to each inflores- cence. This hybrid was raised by crossing S. sancta and S. Ferdinandi-Coburgii, and is a worthy descendant of two admirable parents. In general appearance it somewhat resembles S. sancta, the well-known species from Mount Athos. It does best in a sunny position and limestone soil. The flowering season is March and April, and it makes a suitable companion plant in the rock garden to the lighter-coloured S. apiculata. April 4, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 171 Ten-week, East Lothian and Brompton. ; sow early. Salpiglossis, 2 feet (various). Phlox Drummondii, I foot (various). Double Asters Victoria, Comet and Ostrich Plume. Single Asters sinensis and Single Comet ; use wood-ashes and a little old soot as manure for Asters. Schizanthus hybridus grandiflorus, i foot (various). Verbena, i foot ■(various). Nemesia strumosa Suttonii grandifiora, I foot (various). Double Zinnia, i J feet (various). Marigold, 2 feet, African, Lemon ; French, Tall ■Orange. Cosmos, 2 feet to 3 feet, Rose Queen; •Cosmos requires very little manure. Dimor- pho heca aurantiaca, 1 foot, orange, black centre. ■GaiUardia picta, i foot, yellow and scarlet. For -climbing : Cobaea scandens, purple, Tropaeolum canariense, Humulus japonicus variegatus (annual Hop), and Ipomcea coccinea, scarlet ; sow where plants are to bloom. For edging : Lobelia, blue and white, and Verbena nana ■compacta. Everlastings (for winter decoration) : Helichrysum, i foot to 2 feet (various) ; cut the blooms before fully open. Rhodanthe, i foot (various). B. W. Lewis. THE IMPROVEMENT OF GARDEN ROSES. THE article upon " The Improvement of Garden Roses," in your special Rose Number of October 11 last, from the pen of " White Rose," was very interesting, owing to the superfluity of new varieties. Last year established a record so far as the National Rose Society and gold medal awards were concerned, and the behaviour of the varieties that have been so honoured will be watched with keen interest by growers all over the country. The demand for Roses is now immense, and during the last decade has altogether altered in- character. Exhibition varieties purely and simply, and also those sorts that are not of value as " cut-backs," have fallen upon evil days, and the has also the effect of debarring many excellent garden Roses from the highest award a variety can obtain. After all, however, as your corre- spondent puts it, there is another court of appeal, and that is the amateiu' growers of the country. I know that " White Rose " is very interested in the welfare of the National Rose Society, and that he is a very active and sympathetic member of that organisation, and I take it as. a very hopeful sign when I see him writing that, " As matters are now arranged it is to the amateurs chiefly and finally that we must look to secure the results we desire." The amateur rosarian of to-day is rapidly becoming quite independent of catalogue descriptions of Roses, and, what is more, he is becoming very chary of the awards to new varieties. The modern amateur — I am writing of the majority — is a grower of sturdy and healthy independence ; he knows what he wants for decorative purposes, and he sees that he will get it ultimately. PLANTING ALMONDS FOR EFFECT. How often one sees the Almond and other spring-flowering trees ■with red or pink flowers planted in close proximity to a red brick building, so that the beauty of the flowers is lost against the unsuitable background ! With summer-flower- ing trees this may not be so apparent, but with trees that bloom before the leaves untold, too much care cannot be given to the choice of a favourable site. Possibly the Almond is seen to greater disadvantage than any other tree, for, owing to its adaptability to town life, it is frequently seen in small gardens near large towns, and especially in the suburbs of London. Indeed, it has been ob- served that the Almond produces ■a greater abundance of blossom near to main thoroughfares than it does in the quiet surroundings of a large park or garden. The reason given is that the trees near thoroughfares are unmolested by birds, whereas in sequestered places the birds do considerable damage to the buds in the spring. In the accompanying illustration is shown the Almond flowering with good effect near a garden walk. Here the trees have been thoughtfully interspersed with dark evergreen conifers, against which the light-coloured flowers of the Almond trees are thrown up in marked contrast. The flowering of the Almond is always a matter of interest to Londoners. This year the first blooms were noticed in the early days of February, last year on January 25, but in the cold spring of 1909 the first blooms were not observed till April i. The Almond is known botanically as Pruniis Amygdalus or Araygdalus communis, and the fruits are clothed with a velvety pubescence. On the Continent the Almond is grown lor its fruits, but in this country they do not appear to have any commercial value. ALMONDS EFFECTIVELY GROUPED WITH DARK-LEAVED SHRUBS. demand for Roses of this description is rapidly becoming less and less. The call is now for what are termed garden or decorative Roses, and raisers, judging from the "National" shows of last year, have not failed to respond. But there is one unsatisfactory point in the judgment of this somewhat modem section of Roses. The system of granting awards to exhibi- tion Roses may be sound enough, for, after all, the flowers are otily required to be at their best upon the show benches ; but, surely, a totally different method is necessary for assessing the value of varieties that are required for the decoration of the ; arden and home. The value of such a Rose can never be ascertained from a mere collection of flowers staged upon a bench in tubes or boxes. The present system, while admitting many valuable Roses to premier honours, and at the same time doing a similar service to some that are worthless. " White Rose " observes that the amateur will get what he wants by vigorous criticism and the eUmination of undesirables, and this is precisely what is being done. For example, in the West of Scotland there is a very large and increasing circle of enthusiastic amateur rosarians. These growers have their wants catered for by weekly articles in the columns of an influential Glasgow even- ing newspaper. The editor of the gardening columns last autumn took a plebiscite of his readers upon the twenty-four best garden Roses, and the result was a list that reflected little credit upon the enormous number of new Roses of recent years. Nearly one hundred and fifty lists were received by the editor, and it is obvious, from the observations made by the contributors, that they were really up- to-date and had tried most new sorts. If criticism of this description becomes more general — and it really seems to tend in this direction- -it will be 172 THE Gx\RDEN. [April 4, 1914. welcome if it helps to teach those who are responsible for gold medal awards what modern growers really require. I offer no suggestion as to an alteration of the present methods of the National Rose Society in respect to new Roses, but I commend the last paragraph of " White Rose's " excellent article to the careful attention of its Council. Mid-Lothian. George M. Taylor. [We shall be pleased to publish the views of other readers on this important subject, but we hope they will be as concisely expressed as possible. — Ed.] POTATOES. UNDOUBTEDLY the Potato is the most valuable of all vegetables grown in a garden. In very small gardens where a fair number of vegetables are to be grown, and only a few of each kind to provide variety, early Potatoes only should be planted, so as to allow of space in the summer-time for soil is pretty well freed of both small and coarse weeds. Digging and Manuring. — I need not refer in detail to the work of digging. It will be sufficient to say that the soil must be broken up and the subsoil loosened in the case of new ground, and that a subsequent tmming with the garden fork of the top 12 inches vnil be advisable. Cultivated ground will only need once digging. In every instance well-rotted manure should be used in preference to fresh or green manure. Some growers simply put the manure in the drills or trench and lay the tubers on it, afterwards covering them and the manure with soil. It is much the best plan to dig in the manure evenly over the whole of the ground a few weeks prior to the planting of the tubers in the case of heavy, retentive soils, and then, when the tubers are planted, simply move the top portion to cover the tubers without turning it over and exposing the buried manure. When dealing with light soils, the manure may be applied at the same time as planting is done. light lavender, white-tipped flowers ; Sir John Llewelyn, white kidney, white flowers ; Duke ot Vork, white kidney, white flowers. Second Early. — Windsor Castle, white round ; Radium, white round, white flowers ; British Queen, white kidney, white flowers ; Herd Laddie, coloured round ; and Mr. Bresse, coloured kidney. Late. — The Factor, white round or oval, mauve flowers; King Edward VII., coloured kidney, mauve flowers ; The Admiral, white round, flowers white ; and Up-to-Date, white kidney, mauve flowers. Avon. A BEAUTIFUL ALPINE PLANT, SOLDANELLA PUSILLA ALBA. THIS RECEIVED AN MERIT FROM THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY ON THE 24TH ULT. several kmds of winter greens to be planted. In larger gardens, early, midseason and late varieties of Potatoes may be grown in quantity, according to the requirements of the cultivator. Cleaning the Soil. — Some persons say, " Oh ! plant Potatoes ; they clean the soil better than any other crop." It is not the crop that cleans the soil, but the treatment of the soil necessary to the well-being of the Potatoes. The ground must be well worked before the tubers are planted ; the loosened soil is moved during the earthing-up process, and again when the crop is gathered ; also, there is considerable hoeing done to keep down surface weeds. A good cultivator does this, and also gets rid of deep-rooting weeds at iifting-time, so that at the end of one year the It should be spread on the surface and dug in with the soil generally, thoroughly mixing it with the latter. In clayey soils, with which I have had to deal, I have had some trouble in growing tubers with a clean skin. After several seasons of unsatis- factory results I scattered dry lime in the trench, on tubers and soil alike, before covering the former with soil in the usual way. From plots so treated I had Potatoes so clear in skin that they were fit to exhibit in good company. I never measured the lime applied, but used sufficient to make the soil look quite white. The following are good sorts for general planting, and are suitable for a garden ot medium size. Early. — Midlothian Early, a white kidney with white flowers ; Sharpe's Victor, white kidney. NEW AND RARE PLANTS. AWARDS OF MERIT. Narcissus Syphax. — This was entered for " garden and cutting." It is a self-coloured flower of rich golden yellow. After Buttercup in shade, but not in form. The stem is long and good. Narcissus Tita. — A fine, big red cup, also recom- mended for garden and cutting ; and certainly, by the length of stem sho%vn, it should prove an ( xcellent garden variety. Narcissus Sunrise. — This is an in- comparabilis sort, with rich scarlet cup and pale creamy perianth segments. Recommended for cutting. These three excellent novelties came from Mr. A. M. Wilson, Shoveli, Bridgwater. Narcissus Eastern Maid.— This in some respects appro.ximates to Sir Watkin, despite the fact that the seg- ments are longer and more pointed, the cup longer and more cylindrically in- clined, and the colour a deeper yellow shade. Recommended for show. From Messrs. R. H. Bath, Limited, Wisbech. Soldanella pusilla alba. — One of the prettiest of its class ; a dainty alpine 3 inches high, having heavily fringed, pendent bells of pearly whiteness, slightly stained with crimson at their bases internally. From Messrs. T. S. Ware, Limited, Feltham. Trillium rivale. — A dainty wood- land plant, suited also for cool posi- tions in peat and leaf-mould in the rock garden. It is but 3 inches or so high, quite a miniature in its set, the white flowers copiously spotted with brown. Shown by Mr. James Box, Lindfield, Sussex, Rhododendron Littleworth Hybrid. — This may briefly be re- ferred to as a giant form of R. argenteum, with larger, longer and whiter flowers. Unfortunately, the anthers had been removed, and with them a characteristic of the flower had gone. The scarlet-tipped stigma was very conspicuous. Shown by Miss Mangles, Scale, Famham. awaRD of NEW ORCHIDS. A first-class certificate was granted for an exquisite rich crimson Odontioda named Zenobia. It was sho^vn by F. M. Ogilvie, Esq., Oxford. Awards of merit were made to Dcndrobium superbum Huttonii giganteum, shown by W. Walter Butler, Esq., Edgbaston ; and to Sophro- Lrelio-Cattleya Niobe Orchid Dene Variety, from Messrs. E. H. Davidson and Co., Twyford. The foregoing awards were made by the Royal Horticultural Society on March 24 at the fort- nightly exhibition. April 4, 1914.J THE GARDEN. 173 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. DIVIDING AND REPOTTING ASPIDISTRAS. AMONG the numerous plants grown in pots for indoor decoration, none equals the Aspidistra for dark corners, i draughty passages and other positions ^ unfavourable for plant growth in the house. It may be safely said, with- out fear of contradiction, that no other plant is used so extensively. One has only to visit a market nursery and see house after house of Aspidistras containing thousands of plants, or Covent Garden in the early morning, to recognise the enormous demand that exists. Aspidistra lurida, to give our friend its full botanical name, is said to have been first intro- duced to this country from China in 1822, and two years later, in 1824, a very nice figure was given of the plant in the Botanical Magazine, plate 2499. Though of such inestimable value as a foliage plant, the flowers are insignificant, though very interesting to those who love the quaint and uncommon. They appear generally in early spring, nestling among the stalks of the leaves there is no need for repotting. The plant illustrated has been grown in a room for nine years. During that time it has only been repotted once, and now requires it again. The plant is large enough to divide into two, or, if desired, may be potted on into a size larger pot. For plants growing in a room it is most important to have ample drainage in the bottom of the pots to allow water to pass away freely. Place, as shown in the illustration, one large crock over the hole in the bottom of the pot, next several rather smaller pieces, and on these some still smaller, covering all with a little moss to prevent the soil trickling down and stopping the surplus water from passing out at the bottom. Sometimes when repotting Aspidistras the soil is in such bad condition that it is necessary to wash all the old soil away from the roots ; in others, when the soil is sweet, only the loose soil need be taken off. Aspidistras are such good-natured and hardy plants that repotting checks them little, if at all. While most of what has already been written applies to both the green- leaved and variegated-leaved Aspi- distras, those with the beautifully marked white and green leaves require more care and attention to grow them successfully. As much light as possible must be given them, as in dark comers the leaves are inclined to gradually revert to green, from which in the first instance they have been selected as sports. There is nothing better than a little lukewarm soft water and soft soap for sponging the leaves of Aspidistras. On warm, showery days it is very beneficial to stand the plants outside for a few hours. O. A. I. AN ASPIDISTRA THAT NEEDS REPOTTING. and quite close to the soil in the pot. Less than an inch across when fully expanded, the blooms are buff outside and rich purple inside. The Aspidistra gets the name of lurida from the poor quality of the flow'ers, the common name of the Dingy-flowered Aspidistra being also sometimes used. The Best Time to Pot the plants is during March and April, those who are fortunate enough to possess a greenhouse doing such work in March, while April is soon enough for plants which, when potted, must be kept in a window or room. Aspidistras will grow in most soils, a suitable compost being a mixture of three parts loam, one part leaf-mould and one part coarse sand. There is no necessity to put Aspidistras in large pots, though the roots must not be unduly <;rowded ; the plants will be found to thrive better when the quantity of soil in the pot is not excessive in comparison with the size of the plants The question of when a plant requires repotting and how often may now be considered. As long as a plant remahis healthy, the soil in the pot ieeps sweet, and the leaves are not unduly crowded. SOOT AS LIQUID MANURE. Soot, used with care, is very valuable in the garden, but fre- quently it is applied injudiciously, and then the results are unsatisfactory. We only want the essence and not the sediment but there is a mistaken idea that the soot-water, to be of any benefit to plants, must be very black, like the soot itself. This is, of course, the wrong way to use the liquid. If we brew coffee, we use the clear liquid as a beverage, and not the grounds or sediment. Soot must be kept in a box or tub in a dry shed. When a liquid is required, put a peck of the soot in a coarse bag or piece of sacking, tie it up tightly, and immerse in a tub or other vessel containing twelve gallons of water. The bag of soot must be violently moved to and fro twice a day for a week ; then use the clear* liquid, taking it out very carefully so as not to stir up the sediment. For the general watering of plants in pots, one pint will be sufficient to mix with a gallon of clear water ; for plants in borders, use twice the quantity. In every case the plants must possess plenty of roots, and the soil must be fairly dry before clear water is given, to be followed one hour afterwards with the soot-water. 2. IF DESIRED, THE PLANT CAN BE DIVIDED INTO TWO OR MORE PIECES. When the sediment is used and the soot applied in a natural state, the pores of the soil are blocked, and then, through sourness, the roots perish. In the open border, dry soot may be applied, of course, to ward off slugs from young seedlings ; but the soot must not be scattered on the foliage. If to be mixed with potting composts, the soot must be stored for at least three months. Never use soot and lime in a closed frame where there are plants, as the lime liberates the ammonia, and, if confined, the leaves of plants are burned. Shamrock. -A SECTION OF A POT, SHOWING HOW IT IS DRAINED, AND A DIVIDED PORTION POTTED. 174 . THE GARDEN. [April 4, 1914. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. Cherry Trees in Pots. — This is a precarious crop, and requires careful attention until the stoning period is over. Examine the pots several times daily, and when necessary a good soaking of clear water should be given. The ventilators should never be closed until the second swelling has commenced, and it is far better to let the temperature drop to 40° than to employ fire- heat to keep it higher. Young Dormant Vines. — Now Is the time to plant young dormant Vines. Let every particle of soil be carefully removed from the roots, which must not be exposed to the air for any length of time before they are placed in position, and covered with 2 inches of fine soil from the border, which should have been made up a month ago. When the Vines are planted, water with clear soft water, but only in sufiicient quantity to reach the roots. Place a stick to each plant, and, when the shoots are sufficiently advanced, disbudding should be carefully performed, leaving the necessary leading shoots as near the bottom wire of the trellis as possible. Vine Eyes. — If these were inserted in small pots early in the year, they should now be ready for potting into 5-inch pots. The soil may consist of three parts rich loam, one part leaf-soil, and sufiicient silver sand and fine lime rubble to keep the compost porous. Young Vines are easily injured at this stage, therefore potting should take place in the house where they are growing. Support each plant with a stick, and shade for a few days, but as soon as possible the plants should be exposed to the sun. Syringe frequently in order to promote a hunrid atmosphere. Plants Under Glass. Bouvardias. — Early struck cuttings will now require potting, either singly in small pots, or, if struck three in a pot, they may be potted without di\'ision, and will make useful plants for early winter flowering. As the season advances and the plants have gro\vn to a useful size, they must be gradually hardened, so that during the summer they may be grown in a well-ventilated pit. Mignonette. — Plants which are approaching the flowering stage may be watered frequently with weak guano-water, and from now onward they must never be allowed to become too dry at the roots. A further sowing of Mignonette should be made now to provide a succession to those plants which have been cultivated during the spring. Red Monster is one of the best varieties for this purpose : 5-inch or 6-inch pots will be quite large enough. The Flower Garden. Montbretias. — If the corms were lifted in the autumn and placed in cold frames, they will now have started into growth, and should be planted out as soon as possible. At Frogmore these roots are lifted each season and wintered in a cold pit. In February part of the corms are potted, allowed to start into growth, and planted out in April. By this means earlier flowers are obtained, and the supply prolonged by planting dormant corms for succession. Violets. — If cuttings were taken in the autumn and wintered in cold frames, there will be no difficulty in finding a sufiicient number of stocky young plants ready for planting out now. If thoroughly hardened, they may be lifted with a nice quantity of soil to each plant and carefully planted on a well-prepared border. Single varieties may be allowed 18 inches each way between the plants, and double varieties a foot from plant to plant. We grow a large number of Violets at Frogmore, and all of them are struck in the autumn. The old plants are thrown away as soon as the flowering period is over. The Hardy Flower Border. — Most of the plants have started into growth, and any regulating or transplanting still to be done should be finished without delay, as if dry weather sets in they may sufier seriously. The surface of the border may be carefully stirred with a Dutch hoe. If necessary, the growths of Asters and Phloxes may now be thinned out, removing the weaker shoots, and others also where they are too numerous. Vacant spots near the front of the border may now be filled with Pentstemons, Antirrhinums, Agro- stemma coronaria and Carnations, all of which are well furnished with foliage as well as flowers. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Fruit Trees on Walls.— Apricot, Nectarine and Peach trees will still require protection from frost and dashing rain, for, the drier the flowers and foliage are kept in cold weather, the better will be the prospect of a successful crop. While the blossoms are kept dry, they will withstand a con- siderable degree of cold without injury. As soon as the fruits are set, the trees should be care- fully examined, and if any aphides are present, their destruction must be accomplished as soon as possible. The Kitchen Garden. French Beans. — These may be so\vn either in heated pits or forcing-houses, and may be expected to produce pods about the end of May. Plants now in bearing may be frequently watered with weak liquid manure. Syringe twice daily and shut up the house early in the afternoon. Seeds may now be sown in small pots for planting in cold pits about the middle of April. Winter Greens. — Kales for winter use should be sown with as little delay as possible, and another sowing made about the end of April for use later in the season. Broccoli for autumn and winter supplies should be so%vn about the end of April. Seakale. — If Seakale thongs were prepared and placed in a warm border during the winter, the plants should now be ready to put out. Plant in rows 2 feet apart and allow a foot from plant to p'ant in the rows. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Carrots. — Preparations should now be made for sowmg the main crop of this important vege- table. The soil best suited for their successful cultivation is one of a deep sandy nature, but I must not be understood to say that very good results may not be had from ordinary garden soil, that is if this is skUfulIy prepared. Sowing the Seed. — On shallow soUs it is usually good policy to sow the intermediate or stump- rooted varieties, while Long Surrey and Altrin- cham will succeed best on deep loams. No one, however, can hope to grow Carrots surcrssfully unless the bed has been thoroughly prrpnred. The seed should be mixed with fine earth previous to sowing ; indeed, in addition to this, I have even gone the length of running some sifted soil into the drills before sowing. Needless to say, the seed should be sown thinly, and thin out when the plants are quite small ; if possible, in showery weather. It is at this stage that the m^iggot makes its appearance, and as a preventive I usually give the ground between the rows a dressing of mown grass from the lawn ; this is repeated about every three weeks until all danger is past. Mushrooms. — A bed may now be prepared to give a supply of Mushrooms towards the begin- ning of June. Should one be cramped for room, the bed may be made up in an outhouse. Bi ds giving a supply of Mushrooms will be greatly benefited by an occasional watering with rain- water to which a little salt has been added. Late Cabbage. — All the late varieties of Cabbage, such as Winningstadt, may now be sown, as well as a pinch of seed of Red Cabbage, which is so much in demand for pickling in the autumn. The Flower Garden. Bulbs. — The various sorts of bulbs that have been forced should be collected and placed in a frame, where they can be attendfd to in the way of watering until the foliage is matured. These may be planted out in the autumn in convenient places in the wild garden. Daffodils, of course, may be planted in nursery lines in the garden and forced again in two or three years' time. Spiraeas may be planted right away in some marshy spot, where they soon make handsome plants. Azaleas should have the faded flowers removed, and be kept under cover until the young growth is completed. Hardy Annuals.— The present will be a suitable time to sow the majority of hardv annuals, particu- larly those that do not bear tr'ansplantirg. The sowing of all hardy annuals may be made where they are to flower, provided they are sufficiently thinned. This thinning is important, as it not only prolongs the blooming period, but the flowers themselves are much finer. Such annuals as Dimorphotheca aurantiaca, with its gorgeous orange flowers, are extremely effective, and for producing a blaze of colour, perhaps the Godetias stand unrivalled. The variety Scarlet Queen made a brilliant display here last season. Phacelia campanularia is singularly striking with its bright blue flowers, which last a long time in b'oom. And what of the ever-popular Shirley Poppy, with its endless varietv of colour, and that chaste little Swan River Daisy that always arrests attention I It would be difficult to imagine anything more showy than that old favourite,. Saponaria calabrica. Last season I saw this in perfection. The gardener had sown it over some stones and old roots, and when in bloom it resembled a huge cushion of pretty pink, star-like flowers. Ageratums. — I find it a great saving of labour to grr)w these from seed rather than propagate by cuttings. They come wonderfully true, and if sown now will U'lst in bloom when almost every- other plant is over. Plants Under Glass. Begonia Gloire de Lorraine. — By this time the main batch of cuttings should be' got in, and it will be found that with the increpscd sun-heat cuttings inserted now will possibly overtake those rooted earlier. They may be inserted three in a pot in a compost containing a good proportion of silver sand, taking care to m.-ke the soil quite firm around the cuttirgs. Where one cannot command a propagating-case, the same results will be obtained by placing the small pots among half-decayfd leavfs in a box of con- venient size. Covfr the box with glass and stand it on the pipis in an early vinery. Richardias (Arums). — As these go out of bloiim, coniiiiue tn g,ve an occasional watering with liqtiid manure to mature the crowns for next se: Son's flowers. Lft the folifge ripen off naturally, and by no mf-ans stand thrm out of doors until all fear of frost is gone. It is true that at this stage they become unsightly ; still, if we expect to procure a supply of these noble flowers, we must give them a chance. Greenhouse Rhododendrons. — The majority of thise lovt.y Rhododti-droi s will now be ei^ming into bloom, and as they are usu: lly grown in large pots or tubs and not potted very frequently, they shou'd be given liberal supplies of liquid manure. The variety Lady Alice Fitzwillirm, with its exquisite frrgrance, is one of the bfst, and if allowed to grow naturally makes handsome specimens. I find that if the blooms are cut just before the buds open, they travel well and stand quite a lorg time in a cut state. Shading. — With the increased power of the sun, all houses requiring shading should be seen to at once, otherwise much damage will be done to the young Feni fronds and Palms. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Beyond giving protection to trees and bushes as they come inte> flower and keeping the ground free from weeds, very little will require to be done at the moment in this department. Apples and Pears, however, may still be grafted where this was not done earlier. Fruits Under Glass. Melons. — Those planted last month will now be grown. g freely, but water should still be given with care, more especially round the neck of the plants. There is still a sharp bite in the air, so that ventilation will require to be deine with caution. It will be well to close down the house early in the afternoon, and thus husband as much sun-heat as possible. Seed may now be sown to keep up a succession of ripe fruit. John Highgate. (Head-gardener to the MarqiiiS of Linlithgow.) Hopcloun Gardens, South Qucciisfcrry, N.B. April 4, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 175 MY SMALL ROCK GARDEN : HOW I MADE AND PLANTED IT. {Continued from page i6i.) WHERE some bay occurs (preferably close to the path edge), it is well to torm a " semi-bog " by taking out the soil to the depth oi a loot at least, and partially lining the " dish " so formed with clay. If into this receptacle a mixture of peat moss litter {rubbed through a half-inch sieve), leaf-mould, small brick grit and sand is placed, it will accommodate a host of plants which delight in a moist rooting medium, such as Primulas, Soldanellas, Erythroniums, Polypodium Dryopteris, and so on. Peat moss litter I have found a splendid materia] as a substitute for the more expensive peat, and it forms an excellent " sponge." The bales should be opened and allowed to become moist, when the stuff crumbles down to the size of Cocoanut fibre. It should, of course, be used new — not after it has been in the stable. At some point not far from the eye it is well to form a gently rising piece of ground, where a number of small, irregularly sized beds will accommo- date the choicer Saxifragas, such, for instance, as S. burseriana, S. rocheli- ana, S. Elizabethae, S. marginata, S. cochlearis and its variety minor, and S. Salomonii, varied here and there with the choice Woodruff, Asperula suberosa, and the dainty Linum salsaloides nana. A little further off, in crevices in rather more rocky ground, S. lingulata will display its narrow-leaved rosettes, while in steeply rising, sunny posi- tions S. longifolia should be planted in such a way that the rosettes project through a small opening between the stones, and the rcots wander away in a semi-horizontal direction behind, amid the gritty, limy compost. In rather similar positions, though in shade, the lovely Ramondia pyrenaica can be planted, say, half a dozen in a group, a few inches apart. The more shady portions of the garden can be planted with the many coloured species of tlie Mossy Saxifragas, such as S. caespitosa, S. muscoides, S. Wallacei, S. Clibranii and S. bathoniensis, while their vivid green foliage can be varied by the umbrosa section, such as the type — S. Geum and S. cuneifolia. Alpine Pinks. — Among the Dianthus family, D. arenarius will adorn rocky crevices and drape the adjacent stones with a wee green mantle, which in its flowering season will be a sheaf of white, deeply fringed flowers. In a more choice spot (as well as in the moraine), in especially gritty soil, the narrow, grassy leaves of D. neglectus will make a tiny mound, surmounted in June or July with rich, deep carmine blossoms. Similarly in free soil (and, strangely enough, sun) D. sylvestris and its dwarfer form, D. frigidus, will do well, while on some sunny knoll in quite ordinary, -though free soil the Cheddar Pink (D. caesius) will make a welcome patch. Silvery Saxifragas, such as S. Hostii, S. Aizoon Stepping Stones. — As every portion must be and S. Cotyledon and its variety pyramidalis, conveniently reached, it is necessary to place can well be employed to garnish crevices between ' stepping-stones at distances apart, making them as steeply rising rock, and in such positions the inconspicuous as possible by employing suitable arcliing sprays of white and pink dotted flowers irregularly shaped pieces of flatfish stone and will show to great advantage. " working " them into the design. In my case I On the sunniest stones Houseleeks can.be grown, made the chief path round the outer portion of the provided a little soil is given them and they are garden, and then arranged several narrow, sinuous tended with water until estab'ished. The species tracks more towards the centre (exclusively for my Sempervivum arachnoideum (the Cobweb House- leek) is especially attractive, as it makes silvery hummocks surmounted by rich rosy, star-like flowers. Other decorative Sempervivums are S. Tristii, S. fimbriatum, S. calcareum and S. globiferura. Of the Sedums or Stonecrop family all are useful, own use), and these were varied by making some merely in the form of stepping-stones, while others were built more soMd'y and continuous, in the form of a rough, irregular stairway, and, by cementing them at the joints, water, conveyed in a con- cealed pipe to the highest point, could in the summer-time trickle over them as a miniature and some especially so. Sedum Sieboldii, for ' cascade. instance, with glaucous-co'oured foliage, changing to rich rosy copper by the autumn, when its A Small Pool. — If a tiny pool can be arranged at the lowest part, a considerable charm is THE COBWEB HOUSELEEK ON A SUNNY LEDGE, WITH ARENARIA C^SPITOSA IN THE FOREGROUND. trusses of pink flowers terminate the growths, is most welcome, while S. Ewersii, S. kamschaticum and S. altissimum are attractive. In hot, sunny positions, where a striking effect is desired, the Sun Rose (Helianthemum) in varying colours can be grown, though it is apt to be too large foi a small garden ; while, if room is available, the dwarf shrub, Cistus formosus, with yellow flowers, and C. purpureus, with large red ones, are very attractive. On some steeply inclined portion of the garden in full sun, where there is no trace of lime in the soil, Lithospermum prostratum and its variety Heavenly Blue make a beautiful cascade of deep green fo'iage and Gentian-like, blue flowers more or less throughout the summer ; while, at the base of such a bluff, Campanula pusilla alba can be allowed to ramble, sending up myriads of dainty, 4-inch-high blossoms. added, and near its margin a wet bog can be built by making a bed which will contain peat, sand and leaf-mould in about equal proportions, and such showy plants as Primula japonica, P. pulveru- lenta and P. sikkimensis will thrive there, whi'e at the e.xtreme water's edge P. rosea will revel. If as a background to these there is room for a crown or two of the fine bold foliage of the Umbrella Plant (Saxifraga peltata), we can have in miniature the bold effect of a Gunuera. As a contrast to the foregoing, either in the water or near its edge, a spathe or two of the common yellow Iris gives a beautiful line with its sword- like foliage, though it needs keeping rigidly to a small plant, otherwise it will outgrow its position. Not only should the garden be decorated with the more or less evergreen plants, but the whole range of dwarf bulbous subjects is open to the 176 THE GARDEN. [April 4, 1914. cultivator, and many of these find cont;enial homes beneath the low carpeting plants. By this means it is possible to have what is practically two crops on the same ground, and the garden may then be flooded in the early part of the year with glorious streaks of blue, where the Glory of the Snow (Chionodoxas) spread, while rosy lilac splashes denote Bulbocodium vernum, Scillas in various colours, early and late flowering species of Croci, and Narcissi in varied sizes, from the wee N. minimus, only 3 inches high, upwards. Tulips, such as T. persica, T. pulchella, T. kauf- manniana and a host of other similar plants should be employed, and most of them thrive well in the normal compost. Silvery Leaved Plants.— Silvery foliaged plants, such as Artemisia vallesiaca, Androsace lanu- ginosa and Antennaria tomentosa, should be utilised to the full, and if pleasingly arranged where their shimmering colour will be backed by some darker foliage, very great use may be made of them. Dwarf conifers, too, aid greatly in suggesting a scale in the garden, and should occupy prominent positions, though never at the highest points cf the rock garden, unless they are prostrate growing, such as Juniperus Sabina variety tamariscifolia. The tiny J. hibernica variety compressa is dwarf and refined enough ior association with the smallest plants, while Pinus Cembra, P. sylvestris nana and Picea pygmaea can be used a little further from the eye, and all seem to thrive in the normal gritty compost of the rock garden. One final word of warning I should like to mention before closing, and that is to emphasise the desurability of preventing the slightest soil leakage. Often at the point of junction between two stones the insertion of a fragment of rock, either with or without a touch of cement to hold it in place, makes all the difference between success or failure with the inhabitant of the position. Not only does the soil trickle down on to plants below and render them partially submerged, but the leakage rapidly forms a space beneath the higher stones, a matter which should on no account be allowed to occur, and which, when present, almost invariably results in the death of the plant whose roots have wandered in that direction. Firnmess, solidity and thorough pack- ing of the porous soil beneath each and every stone should be the watchword of the rock EDITORIAL NOTICES. Ercnj department of hortictlttin' is represented in The Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send iri questions relating to matters upon ivhich tfie;/ mish expert advice. The' Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes, but he ivill not be responsible for their safe return. All reasonabU care, however, will be taken, and where i^tamps are enclnsed: Jw will endeavour to return non-acrepted contributions. As regards photographs, if payment is desired, the Editor asks that the price required for reproduction be plainfif stated. It must be disiincilv uvderstood that only the actual photn- granher or owner of the copijright will he treated with. The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic or literary contributions which he may not be ahle to use. and the receipt of a proof ynust not be taken as evidence that an article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone be reeoqnised as acceptance. Offices: 20, Taristork Strert. C'ovcnt Garden. W.C. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. gardener. Reginald A. Malby. THE EDITOR'S TABLE. A Specimen Lilac from Dersingham.—From Mr. T. -Jannoch, Dersingham, Norfolk, we have received a profusely flowered specimen plant of a single white Lilac. The plant was admirably grown, and so heavily laden with large trusses of bloom that we felt compelled to have it photo- graphed, with the result that it is illustrated on page 169 of this issue. The variety is Marie Legraye, well known to be one of the best for pot culture under glass. Mr. Jaimoch has a world- wide reputation for Lilacs, and all of the plants sent out from his nursery have been grown for two or more years in pots. This is doubtless the secret of his success, for in order to obtain the finest early Lilac flowers it is absolutely neces- sary that the plants should be established in pots, and the older the plants the better will be the flowers. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— 27((7 Editor intends to make The Gardes helpful to all readers wlio desire assist- ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering shoots, rvhere possible, should be sent. It is useless to send small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters on business should be sent to the Pxtblisher. FLOWER GARDEN. VIOLETS NOT DOING WELL (York).— We find no fundus or inject upon tin:- Viok-ts sent. The ^cat develop- ment of leaf with the small anvnnit of dower prodnction simi^ests that the soil is of too rich a character. SOWING ZEA QUADRICOLOR PERFECTA (F. H.).— \s you have no artificial heat, you may sow the seeds and place in a cold frame in April. Failing this, sow in a warm, sheltered spot out of doors at the end of April or earlv in ilay. THE NEW ZEALAND FLAX (PHORMIUM TENAX) U Newbury). — This is hardy in many parts of En-rland. Where this is the case, all that it needs is to plant it out in "ood loamy soil so situated that it is always fairly moi^t If grown in pots, it should be ffiven a comport consisting mainly of fibrous loam, lightened, if necessary, by a little leaf-mould and sand. Under these conditions it must be wintered in the greerUiouse or conservatory. \ suitable soil for Lasiandra macrantha is equal parts of loam and peat, with a good sprinkling of silver sand. Tlir plants should bo stopped two or tlircc times durmg thrir carlirr stages in order to induce a bushy habit. MANURING BULBS IN GRASS (Zctti)-— Providing your bulbs appear to be moderately vigorous and the flowers do not deteriorate from year to year, there is no need to applv manure to the grass. We know of many vigorous plantations made twenty year;:, ago which have never been manured since, yet always bloom well. If you do wish to apply manure, however, you may use basic slag and kainit in the proportion of two parts of the former to one part of the latter ; use at the rate of lOlb. to the scpiare rod. Crocuses and Daffodils give good results where the grass is dense, but Snowdrops are usually better where the grass is thin. It is doubtful whetlier Anemone fulgens will keep in good condition for more than a year or two, and you would be well advised to carry out a few experiments before making an extensive planting. HERBACEOUS BORDER AND A FLAN (Atmous).— It is most important that all such hordrrs \>r set niit to a plan, otherwise nothing short of an indiscriminate mixture would result. From the colour point of view it is most essential, and what you have to do is to arrange your plants in informal groups, each group occupying a space of 2 feet or 3 feet, so that the colours will harmonise and not clash. A point to aim at is to avoid arranging in close proxi- mity near akin shades of colour, whether it be blue, pink, violet, purple, rose, salmon, yellow and orange, and so on, .-tronger and more decisive shado.^ invariably overpowering the weak. By distributing these near akin shades through- out the border in touch with other colours which allord harmony or contrast, a good result is secured. To get a fuller idea of how a border .should be set out, you should obtain " The Hardy Flower Book," by E. H. Jenkins, which contains a good plan anil much other useful informa- tion. It may be had post free from our Publishing Dopart- meiit for 2s. lOd . MARGUERITE MRS. SANDERS iSantry).— It would not be safe to plant out tbi' MirgiuTitcs till the end of .May or early part (jf June. <.;ood garden soil, such as that most suitable for bedding plants, will meet tin* requirements of this Marguerite, Good clean flowers would doubtless flnd a ready market. If for quick effect, the plants may be planted from 15 inches to 18 inches apart; but if the object is to readily get between them and pick the flowers, rows 2 feet apart with 18 inches between the plants will not be too much. The cuttings taken now should be fit to plant out in due course. PLANTS FOR PAVED WALK (N. M.).—You would find the following plants of utility and beauty for the period — July and Aiigust — named. All are dwarf growing When planting, rake out the old soil 3 inches deep from between the stones and apply fresh. Also avoid setting the plants in tufts. By pulling into small portion.s. a plant or two may prove sufficient to adorn a crevice 18 inches long, from which, in time, they spread naturally — Antennaria toment-osa. Arenaria balearica. Campanula pusilla. C. p. alba, C. p. Miss Willmott, C. puUa. C gar-.'anlca in variety, Hutchinsia alpina, ilentha Requieni, Si-dum corsicum. S. hispanicum glaucum, S. Lydium. and Thymus Serpyllum coccineum. A good plant for the bed to appear above the white Alyssum would be Gladiolus brench- leyensis. It is scarlet-flowered. Other plants meagre of foliage, flowering at the same time, would be Xlont- brr-tias, though for your district we think the first-named would be the best. The manure you refer to -hould be excellent for flower beds or. when sifted, for pot plants also. Wo are pleased you flind THE GARDEN of so much assistance. PLANTS FOR WALL (J. F.).— You have, unfortunately, omitted some important particulars in connection with the wall, and if of ordinary brick, mortar-jointed, and erect, there may be some difficulty in getting the plants to start. The success of the Aubrietia, however, gives ground for hope. In the circumstances, so far as w^e know them, sowing the seeds in the wall would be best, though for a south wall autumn would have been a better time, as the seedlings would be now appearins. Before introducing the seeds, some of the joints should be raked out to a depth of 2 inches, soaking the creWces so formed a few times ^vith water ; then, by sprinkling a dozen or two dozen seeds thinly on some moist, stiffish loam, or even clay, the seed-charged soil could be so distributed that the seeds would presently form groups 2 feet or 3 feet across. This principle could be followed throughout, draping or trailing plants, like Aubrietia, being kept high, the dwarfer things, like Erinus, being set as it were to the iruddle line of ^ision. An item of supreme importance is after-attention till the seedlings have taken hold, and the getting of moisture to the roots of plants in a vertically built brick wall is not at all easy. If the wall is of roughly quarried, not " worked," stone, the larger interstices avaU- able will render treatment a much simpler matter. In any case, after the distribution of the seed-charged soil, the face of the wall should be daily moistened, as much to hasten the vegetation of the seeds as to afford nourishment later. The following would be of service in the case : Wallflower, Snapdragon and Red Valerian for top positions, if such exist, and where bold plants are required. For the rest, Aubrlctias of sorts, CampamUa pusilla in variety. C. muralis, C. garganica, Corydalis lutea. Dianthus ctesius. D. deltoides, D. alpinns," D. squarrosus, Edraianthus dalmaticus, Candj-tuft (Iberis). Thrift in variety, Erinns alpinns, E. a. albus, Linaria hepatica>folia. Papaver alpinum, Saxifraga Alzoon rosea, S.loncifolia. S.lantoscana, Semper\ivum arachnoideum (seeds or plants). Edelweiss and Zanschneria californica. TREES AND SHRUBS. SHRUBS NOT FLOWERING (Old Subscriber).— Your plants of Staphylea colchica and Xanthoceras sorbifolin ought to be given the sunniest posil ions available ; then, if growing freely, there is no reason why they should not flower. Do not "prune them at all for a year or two. but if very strong shoots are formed, cut the roots round at a distance of 2 feet or 2J feet from the stems. Thi!^. however, is only necessary under exceptional conditions. As a nile, both shnibs Iiloom freely without trouble, and there is no golden rule by which you can hasten flowering. TO DESTROY TREE STUMPS (A/m A. C.).— There is no easy means of destroying stumps of trees left in the ground. By uncovering the main roots and boring holes i inch or so in diameter in them and fllling them with salt, it is possible to kill the stumps, bvit there is little chance of hastening the rotting process. It is always cheaper in the end to extract roots at the time the trees are felled, for they are a, bother for some years if left in the ground which is reqiured for a garden. You can kill the trees and make them suitable for supports fbr Hoses by removing a circle of bark 6 inches wide from near the ground ; that may be done at once. Clematises may still be planted, although it is better to plant them a month earlier. It is not advi.iable to cut such plants as Aubrietias, Alyssums and Armerias back, but if they are outgrowing their positions, root some young plants in May and destroy the old ones. If your Christmas Roses are doing well where they are, do not disturb them. We imagine, how- ever, that the position is rather sunny and dry for them. A moist and rather shady place is more to their likinii, but do not change them about from one place to annUi.r for flowering. They dislike constant root disturiiaucc The most inexpensive way to procure broken paving stom- for your path would be to obtain it from a local buildt'r or road contractor; perhaps the local surveyor could assist you. No. 2212.— Vol. LXXVIII. GARDEN. ""^S'" Idsl^^ April ii, 1914. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Violet La Belle Parisienne. — At the first slance this double Violet is uncommonly like our old friend Marie Louise, but a closer inspection proves it to be a distinct improvement on tiiat variety. The blooms are larger, have stouter flower-stems, and tlie colour of the petals is not so red as those of Marie Louise. This is a Violet that is sure to be more largely grown when it becomes more generally known. Thinning Out Shoots of Herbaceous PVlants. — As the stronger-growing plants will now be advancing in growth, they should have their shoots reduced. This will not only strengthen those that are left, but will give less trouble in staking and tying. Tliis will be more necessary with such plants as Phloxes and Asters (Michaelmas Daisies). The latter especi- ally soon get out of hand, and when staked greatly resemble a sack tied in the middle. A Rare Alpine (Shortia uniflora grandiflora) . — About four years ago this variety received an award of merit from the Royal Horticultural Society. It is still rare in cultivation and the most exquisite form of a small but delightful genus, of which only two species are in cultivation. The pink suffused, bell-shaped blossoms are fringed, while the ruddy stems appearing above the small crimson leaves render it a most desirable plant, Shortia uniflora, native of Japan, is quite eclipsed by its variety grandiflora in size of flower, while its close relative, S. galaci- folia, from North Carolina, is distinguished by a much larger leaf growth and semi- nodding flowers. The cultivation of Shortias is so far imperfectly understood in this country, but a choice position in a damp, half-shady place seems to suit them very well. Spring Treatment of Violets.— Plants that were flowered in frames or pits might now reasonably be dispensed with, seeing that those out of doors will be in bloom ; besides, the frames will be required for other purposes. If a young stock of plants were not rooted in the autumn, it will be necessary to secure the stock from those just being turned out. These semi-rooted cuttings should be planted at once in a specially prepared border somewhere away from the direct rays of the sun, and kept well watered during hot weather until they are well established. .As red spider is very troublesome to Violets, the plants should be sprayed over every afternoon, and an occasional dusting of soot will also assist in keeping them free, besides acting as a fertiliser. Malmaison Carnations. — Plants that were potted in the autumn will now be growing freely, and if they were not staked at the time, this should be seen to at once. We have seen fine specimens receive a severe check through delaying this work into the growing season. It breaks up SHORTIA UNIFLORA GRANDIFLORA, AN EXQUISITE ALPINE WITH PINK, FRINGED FLOWERS. the fine web-like roots, which causes the foliage to become yellow. It will not be advisable to commence feeding these Carnations until the pots are well filled with roots. A Quick-Growing Climber.— For covering tree stumps, walls, fences or unsightly objects, Eccremocarpus scaber is very useful. Seeds sown now and the seedlings pricked out when large enough will make good plants for putting out by June. With a little assistance the young plants soon cling to the objects against which they are planted, and their orange-coloured, tubular flowers appear in great profusion through- out the summer and autumn. Although a perennial, good results can be obtained by treating it as an annual. Cocoa-Pods at Kew. — A small tree of Theobroma Cacao, the Cocoa Tree of commerce, will prove a source of considerable attraction to visitors at Kew during the Easter holidays. Some 8 feet iji height, planted out in one of the beds in the large Palm House, four pods are maturing on the tree. These are 5 inches to 6 inches long and about 3 inclies in diameter near the centre, with prominent ribs. The colour at present is light green, this gradually changing to yellow as the fruits mature. Each one, when it bursts, is expected to contain fifty or more seeds. The Sea Lavenders. — There are several hardy and half-hardy species of Statice, either of an annual, biennial or perennial character, that are well worthy of culti- vation. The paper-like flowers are of great value in a cut state for winter decoration. Apart from this, they are very decorative when fresh, either in beds or borders, while plants of a dwarf habit are quite suitable for planting on the rockery. They are readily raised from seed, which should be sown now in pots and the seedlings pricked off when large enough. The perennial ones can be increased by division, the present time being suitable. The Night-Scented Stock.— We would remind readers before it is too late about the charm of the Night-scented Stock, which is our usual English name of the plant signalised by the Latin appellation of Matthiola bicomis. We have heard of the Virginian Stock (Malcolmia maritima) having jbeen purchased in mistake for the real Simon pure, impossible as it seems to fall into such an error. Every evening and all night long the Night- scented Stock gives out a delightful incense sort of smell, which never seems to pall upon our olfactory nerves. To those who do not know it, we would say that it should not be planted in a prominent position, as its blooms close up during the daytime and give it a woe-begone appearance. It should be sown where it is to bloom, and the seedlings thinned out to about two inches apart every way. It is a plant for close association with the dwelling-house. I 1.78 THE GARDEN. [April ii. 11114. CORRESPONDENCE. {T!ie Editor is not responsible for the opiiiioJis expressed by correspondents.) Galanthus Ikariae. — I have grown this Snow- drop for the last six years on a rockery with a full northern exposure, and have always found it quite satisfactory, both in foliage and flower. On March 27 it was in full bloom. This I regard as one of the best of Snowdrops, coming in as it does so late, and so pure in colour, too. I look upon it as one of the best of spring-flowering bulbs.— E. M., Hants. The Horseshoe Fern.— On page 3 of The CiRDEX for January 3 there is a paragraph on the Horseshoe Fern. The New Zealand Horseshoe Fern is Marattia fraxinea. It is called " Horseshoe " because of the peculiar shape of the root, which resembles a hoof. It is very rare, and is only known to grow in the vicinity of Mount Egmont in deep gullies in wet situations. It is a very ornamental evergreen Fern, and has fronds of considerable length. The Kidney Fern is quite j be much more extensively grown. I do not find I that its cultivation differs from that given to ordinary Tulips, except that it shoidd have very well-drained soil and a sunny position. It is when the flowers are fully open that their glorious yellow centres are fully revealed, this rich colour contrasting well with the pale cream hue of the upper parts of the segments. The flowers are variable, some being much more heavily marked with carmine on the exterior than others. — A. B. Essex. [We publish herewith an illustration of a bed of this beautiful early Tulip, which, as our correspondent states, ought to be more extensively grown. — Ed.] Lachenalias for Baskets. — The excellent repro- duction of a pot of these charming spring-flowering plants on page 154, issue March 28, should do a great deal towards extending and improv- ing their cultivation. I would like, however, to draw attention to their usefulness for baskets, for though they are excellent when grown in pots, they are also a beautiful sight when in full flower and suspended from the roof in a cool house just above one's head. The method of growing THE HIGHLY-COLOURED WATER LILY TULIP (tULIPA KAUFMANNIANA). difierent, being a Trichomanes, as stated in the note. — L. Stowe, Tiakiwai, Tinakori Road, Wellington, New Zealand. The Use of Narcissus Seedlings. — The waste in Daffodil seedling raising is proverbial, but we find the M. J. Berkeley seedlings a notable exception to the rule. For some years we have made a practice of crossing M. J. Berkeley with difierent forms of Poeticus, and even after all the best resulting plants are picked out, the remainder afford excellent decorative material. There is scarcely a flower among them that cannot be made use of, as they have fine long stems and ample foliage. Almost all of them come in useful for vases, and a number make fine garden plants. — F. Herbert Chapman. The Water Lily Tulip. — I am sending you a few flowers of this charming Tulip, which is listed in most catalogues under its botanical name of Tulipa kaufmanniana. I feel sure that if other readers only knew how beautiful it is during the latter days of March and early in April it would them in tliis way is very simple. The wire basket, whatever the size may be, is lined with some long moss, pressed firmly on the bottom and round the sides, say, about half an inch thick. Then commence filling with a compost of fibrous loam and leaf-mould, with a liberal addition of sharp grit and a little finely pulverised sheep-manure. Place about as much soil at the bottom of the basket as there is moss, and lay the bulbs upside down at about four inches apart ; then cover with soil and gradually fill the basket, at the same time working the bulbs equidistant around the sides, and finishing off on top with a layer to grow upright, so that the bottom, sides and top will all be furnished. When growth is fairly free, a little liquid manure will considerably assist them to produce strong foliage and flower-spikes, especially if alternated with the addition of some approved fertiliser stirred in the water ; but care should be taken not to allow any liquid manure to get in the axils of the leaves, or the young spikes may decay. — South Wales. Cistus ladaniferus maculatus.— What a useful plant this is for filling up gaps on a south, east or west wall, where a plant of another kind has sud- denly died or is becoming too large for its present position ! Plants are easily raised from cuttings inserted in a cold frame in September. If put out in the April following, they quickly grow into stocky plants, and can be planted at any time of the year if lifted carefully with a ball of soil attached to the roots. It is a subject to have always at hand ready for an emergency. The blossoms are full\- 4 inches wide, pure white, with a dark blood- coloured blotch on each petal. It is no doubt a sport from C. ladaniferus, which was introduced from Spain in 1629. — M. Lilium nepalense. — in The Garden for March 28, page 159, this Lily is said to have been introduced in 1855 from the Central Himalayas. I am aware that this is the date given in different works for its introduction, but it is described as a white-flowered species, which L. nepalense, as we Imow it, certainly is not. It is very questionable whether L. nepalense ever flowered in this country till it reached that stage in the nursery of Messrs. Low, then of Clapton, in the summer of 1888. The bulbs were obtained from Upper Burmah during a military expedition into that country. Quite a furore was created on September 11 of the year just named, when this Lily was first shown in public at a meeting of the Royal Horti- cultural Society. It was unanimously awarded a first-class certificate, and though this honour was more easily gained then than it is now, there is no doubt that it was, in this case, well deserved. In the summer of the following year (1889) Messrs. Low received a similar award for L. wallichianum superbum, whose name was after a year or two changed to L. sulphureum, and as such it is still largely grown. Under cultivation it has proved to be more robust in constitution than L. nepalense. After this, from the same source, Messrs. Low gave us L. claptonense, subsequently known as L. primulinum, and L. Lowii, both of which seem to have dropped out of cultivation. — H. P. Mertensia Mawsonii. — I wonder if any of your readers can enlighten me ae to the name of an exceedingly beautiful Mertensia which I have on my rockery labelled as Mawsonii ? It is a dwarf replica of Anchusa italica Dropmore variety, grows no more than 5 inches or 6 inches high, and flowers profusely in the early part of March. Its beautiful relative, M. echioides, grows here like a weed on the cool side of the moraine. With regard to your note on page 153 of March 28 issue, I cannot agree for a moment that that delightful little flower, Chionodoxa sardensis, is a gentian blue, beautiful though it may be. We are becoming very loose in our application of the term " gentian blue." If it is to be used in describing Chionodoxa sardensis, we must invent some other colour description for the Gentians. I am further respectfully at variance with you as to the flowering of this little bulb. I have a few himdreds, planted last autumn, which are vastly superior in flower to my established clumps. If Chionodoxas are not at their best in their first season, the inference is that the dealer from whom they were purchased sent out second or third class bulbs. — Raymond E. Negus, Walton-on-Thames . [We do not think the experi- ence of Mr. Negus with Chionodoxa sardensis is a common one. We have always found established bulbs of this and C. Luciliaj to give better flowers than newly planted ones. We should be glad to hear what other readers have to say on the point. — Ed. ] April ii, 1914.J THE GARDEN. 179 Tulip Jenny. — As I write these lines a pot of Tulip Jenny is on a table about two yards away from my desl;. I had forgotten it was there until I had been writing about a quarter of an hour. As soon, however, as the room began to get a little warmer, delicious puffs qf sweetness came with increasing persistence, as much as to say, " You must notice me." Importunity con- quered. I went and buried my nose in its pretty rosy (or, to be accurate, pomegranate purple) blooms. What was the scent like ? A friend suggested Hawthorn. Hawthorn it undoubtedly is. Here, then, is a good name to describe it by to one's friends — the Hawthorn-scented Tulip. Try it next spring and sec if this is not right. — Joseph Jacob. Shading Delicate Seedlings. — Now that the sun has considerable power, it is very essential that delicate seedlings of such things as Begonias and Gloxinias should not be exposed to the full rays thereof. This caution is particularly neces- sary when the sun is obscured only occasionally by passing clouds, as a few minutes' exposure may do a great deal of mischief. At the same time, the young plants should have as much light as possible in order to encourage a good, sturdy growth. This caution against direct sunshine is particularly necessary when minute seeds are sown and covered with a sheet of glass, as the sun quickly sets up an intense heat under the glass and the germinating seeds are simply roasted. — H. P. Sparrows Eating Yellow Crocuses. — Writing on this subject on page 143, issue March 21, Miss E. A. Patch states that those who have studied the subject of colour will know that red inspires fear in birds and animals. My experience has been that some birds, blackbirds for instance, have little fear of red fruits. I wish they had. What a lot of trouble and expense might be saved if only the birds, through fear, refrained from attacking our crops of Red Currants, Strawberries and Raspberries ! I have had red Tomatoes pecked by birds, not because the latter were suffering from thirst, as the garden was on the bank of a river. — Colin Ruse. I have gathered many hints from The Gar- den, and am pleased to return one which I thought was well known. An enquiry on this subject was made by Miss E. A. Patch in your issue of March 21, page 143. Thirty years ago sparrows tore and scattered my yellow Crocuses, but I stopped them the following season. For that length of time I have had yellow Crocuses planted in the grass, i foot wide, on each side of the drive, 30 yards or more long. Last September I planted nearly two thousand Mammoth Golden Yellow on the edges of the drive, removing all old bulbs, and although they have been flowering in their tens of thousands for the past month, not one of them has been pecked by sparrows, which are very numerous. When the Crocuses grow above the stu'face of the grass and indicate the position of each, from stout twigs I cut 6-inch lengths and place firmly in the ground, two opposite each other, on each side of the Crocuses. Four feet from these I place another pair, and so on, to the end of the Crocus border. Then I get a reel of ordinary black cotton, fasten the cotton to the outer end twig, take it to the inner twig, and so on, outer and inner to the end ; then return the cotton fastened to the reverse twigs, and this gives crossed threads every 4 feet. Neither twigs nor cotton can be seen by the human eye when the flowers appear, but the sparrows can see them and for a time keep I entirely from the garden. — W. H. W.. Levmshulmc. In the issue of March 21, page 143, Miss Patch in her interesting contribution makes note of the damage done by sparrows eating yellow Crocuses. In this and a neighbouring garden, whether in small cluriips or large masses, sparrows made no distinction between colours, treating all alike — white, yellow, to deep piurple — tearing the petals to shreds in order to get at the repro- ductive organs of the flowers. Miss Patch mentions that red inspires fear in birds and animals, while yellow appears attractive. From experience during the past three months, I find fowls eat red Camellia petals as greedily as they would green vegetables, probably owing to their thick, fleshy nature. In the summer they have a like fondness for Rose petals. — S. H., Stirling, N.B. Saxifraga burseriana and its Varieties. — With great interest I have read Mr. Raymond E. Negus' very instructive note on the above (page 143, issue March 21). On one point, however, it has wrought confusion in my mind, viz., what is considered to be " the type," of which Mr. Negus speaks in several places ? I always understood the form which occurs on the heights arouiid the City of Trient in the Southern Tyrol (hence tridentina) was S. b. major, while the form found on the Swiss mountains was S. b. minor, the former being of a more loose habit of growth, with larger rosettes and larger flowers ; the latter of more compact -growing cushions, with smaller rosettes and smaller flowers. The Swiss form is, moreover, distinct in its deeper- coloured flower-stalks and calyces. These two are very distinct forms ; probably, however, only as a consequence of different climatic con- ditions. The warmer Southern Tyrol would naturally produce in course of time a stronger growth of all parts, and the later flowering period of S. b. minor can be taken as the inheritance of its colder home. But now there is a third form found on the mountains of the Northern Tyrol which keeps the middle of the two in character. In the face of these three distinct forms, varying as they do according to their different homes, it is difficult to judge which of them Mr. Negus means by " the type " of which he speaks. The fact that, as Mr. Negus states, S. b. Gloria " does not come true from seed," coupled with his other statement that his particularly large-flowered specimen — if I understand him aright — bears " two, or possibly three, flowers " on the one stem, would point to the probability of S. b. Gloria being a hybrid, for even twin flowers aie extremely rare in either of the species. If it were not for this multiple inflorescence, S. b. Gloria might still be considered as having been selected as a giant variety of the tridentina form, for there are great differences as to size of flowers in the individual plants as they occur in Nature. Some of the petals are so narrow at their bases as to leive open spaces between them similar to S. granulata, while others have rounded petals often overlapping each other. S. b. minor has mostly circular and overlapping petals. Among a batch received last year, there is at present also one in flower with crenated edges to the petals ; they are deeply lacerated, almost like a Soldanella. It remains to be seen whether this peculiarity will prove constant. — E. Heinrich, Planegg, Bavaria. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. April 15. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meet- ing and Special Daffodil Show (two days). April 17. — Huntingdon Daffodil and Spring Flower Show. HARDY ASIATIC PRIMULAS, NEITHER CHINESE NOR HIMA- LAYAN. EXCLUDING the Chinese and Himalayan species of Primula, those from other parts of Asia form a valuable series ol hardy flowers. Professor Bayley Balfour treated this section in a masterly manner in his papers at the Primula Conference in 1913, and I have been greatly indebted to him for much information respecting these plants. Professor Balfour reckons some forty species, including microforms, as coming into the area. I have had experience of the follow- ing, which together form a most interesting and beautiful collection. I am again following Professor Bayley Balfour's classification. P. acaulis (Linn., Hill). — It will suffice to remark regarding the ordinary Primula acaulis, our native Primrose, that it is indigenous in Armenia, and that there the type does not dift'er to any noticeable degree from our own wilding. In North Persia a hairy form called heterochroma is to be found, where it was collected by Polak and Piehler and described by Stapf. It appears to be of little horticultural interest. Of more interest, however, is the other microform of P. acaulis, called P. Sibthorpii (Hoffmannsegg), which is P. acaulis var. rubra (Sibthorp and Smith), the red-flowered Primrose which occurs in the Caucasus and spreads to North Persia, as well as in Greece, and which is considered to be the parent of our red, pink, purple, and blue Prim- roses. In connection with this it may be mentioned that Miller speaks of the purple Primrose as that of Constantinople, that city probably being the medium of its introduction to European gardens. This plant is frequently called P. amcena, which will be referred to under P.elatior. P. altaica (Lehmann). — So much confusion exists regarding the name of P. altaica that it would be preferable to abandon its use. The name rightly belongs to a form of P. farinosa. called by Pax P. farinosa subspecies davurica var. intermedia. This is the plant figured as P. inter- media (Sims) in the Botanical Magazine for 1809. The nomenclature of P. amcena and P. altaica is rather too intricate to discuss in the space available. P. algida (Adam). — This is one of the Primulas of the Farinosa section and closely related to the Bird's-eye Primrose, P. farinosa, from which it principally differs by its large spatulate, obtuse, finely toothed leaves, its large corolla of an intense violet colour, and, above all, by its globular capsule, which is longer than the calyx. It is not troublesome to grow in some gardens when established, but some find- a difficulty in retaining it. P. algida, of which there are several varieties, is of a bog-loving nature, and likes peat and loam in half shade. It ranges from the Caucasus to Afghanistan and the Altai. P. amcsna (Bieb.). — This, the true P. amoena, differs in its general appearance from P. Sibthorpii, mainly by its possession of a distinct scape. It is to P. Sibthorpii what P. elatior is to P. acaulis. It has, of course, no relation to P. cortusoides amcena of gardens. P. amoena has been cifltivated since 1831, but so far as I know it is not at present in cultivation in this country. It is a charming plant and ought to come back — a far better thing than many others that are fancied. P. auriculata (Lam.). — Like P. algida, the above is wn'dely spread in Asia, and occupies the 180 THE GARDEN. [April ii, 1914. PRIMULA ALGIDA, A HARDY SPECIES WITH DEEP VIOLET FLOWERS. whole ■ plant is more or less covered with a silky pubescence. It is easily grown in common soil. P. datialioa (Rupxecht).— A rare little plant, after the fashion of P. farinosa, and a [lative of the Caucasus. The plants included under the name appear to vary, and this is in ■ iccord with Pax's descriptions of the species and its forms. The flowers are rose and the leaves mealy, but sometimes free from farina. Moist soil or pots. P. elatior (Linn., Hill).— Of the microforms of P. elatior, the O.xlip, which occurs in the Caucasus and Armenia, mention may be made of P. cordifolia, (Rupr.) and P. Pallasii (Lehm,), though not of special garden worth. They are distinguished mainly by the form of the leaves. P. davurica (Spreng.). — This is a microfonu of P. farinosa, which has rose or rose lilac flowers, and of which there are two or three varieties. The leaves are, however, without or THE ROCK GARDEN. THE GREAT HEPATICA. (Anemone angulosa.) This is o)xe of the many spring-flowering Anemones that should be given prominence in the rock garden. The flowers are clear sky blue, like those of the Hepatica (Anemone Hepatica), but much larger ; there is also a white form, somewhat uncommon, named alba. This plant needs a deep, light soil ; in cold, damp situations the plants are inclined to lose their foliage. .-^ very effective way of growing Hepaticas in the rock garden is to plant them among creeping Sedums or Mossy Saxifrages, the green carpet adding materially to the effect. They may also be used as an edging to beds of spring flowers or along the margins of woodland walks. This plant is quite often met with under the name of Hepatica angulosa. It is perfectly hardy, and may be increased by seed or by division of the roots. SEDUM PULCHELLUM. Among all the numerous members of the Stone- crop family, I know of no more attractive species than this. It is indeed a most charming plant, possessing all the attributes of a really good rock garden subject, and well worthy of a position on the most select rockeries. It is an evergreen species, producing numerous growths from a central tuft. As these lengthen they very much resemble the same districts to a great extent. It belongs to the section Auriculata, and was figured under the name of P. longifolia in the Botanical Magazine for 1797, t. 392, while Maund gives a good figure of it under the same name. It has a strong resem- blance to the other members of the section, and has long leaves and umbels of rose, violet, or lilac flowers. It likes a cool, moist place in the garden in half shade. P. Bayernii (Rupr,). — The typical P. nivalis is referred to later, but one of its microforms, P. Bayernii (Ruprecht) may now be mentioned. It is a pleasing form, which has a distinct mealy toothed beading along the margins of the leaves and white flowers, and the calyx is sometimes greenish purple. This is a good grower in moist soil. It comes from the Caucasus. P. capitellata (Boiss.). — The true P. capitellata (Boissier) is not in commerce, and that of gardens is a variety of P. auriculata. It is an easy plant to grow if given a moist soil and similar conditions to those of P. auriculata. The true plant has farinose foliage and its flowers crowded in a farinose head of rose or purple flowers. P. Columnae (Tenore). — This occurs in the Caucasus and Armenia, and is there a rather rare microform of P. officinalis, the Cowslip. It has yellow flowers, and is not of special garden interest. Primula macrocalyx (Bunge) is another yellow microform of P. officinahs. P. cortusoides (Linn.). — Apart from the con- fusion existing through P. Sieboldii (E. Morren) being often called P. cortusoides, with or without the addition of the word " amoena," the true P. cortusoides has often been confounded with P. saxatilis. The distinction lies in the fact that P. cortusoides has very short pedicels, and P. saxatilis very long ones. It is a pleasing plant of the Cortusoides section, with rose or red flowers, and with petiolate, lobed leaves. The only sparsely fur- nished with farina. It is foimd over a wide area from the Caucasus and through Turkestan, &c. It requires the same treatment as P. farinosa. P . g r a n d i s (Trautv.). — Those who expect to find in P. grandis one of the finest of the race, as the name might suggest, will be pro- foundly disappointed with it. The name is applied on accoimt of the large leaves ; but the flowers, which are yellow, are small, narrow- petalled, and want- ing in grace and colour effect. They are borne in umbels on tall stems. This species, which belongs to the section Svedinskya, is a lover of moisture, and should be planted by the side of a pond or stream. P. grandis is a native of the Caucasus. John MACWArr. Morelands, Duns. {To be contimtcd.) ANEMONE ANGULOSA, A DAINTY LITTLE PLANT GARDEN IN SPRING. FOR THE ROCK April ii, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 181 young growing shoots of a Spruce Fir, their narrow, pointed leaves being about an inch in length. These, when mature, assume a most beautiful shade of red, and the contrast between these and the young, fresh green growths pushing up from the base gives the whole plant a most delight- ful appearance. The branches, which are slender and from 3 inches to 6 inches or 8 inches in length, are trailing in habit, but ascending at the tips, upon which are borne the three to five — usually the latter — branched cymes of beautiful rosy purple flowers, arranged closely together in two rows on the upper surface. I may say that frequently flowers are produced from the sides of the branches, l)ut it is more usual for them to be borne only upon the tips. The " arms " of the cyme vary from 1 1 inches to 2 J inches in length, although I liave known them to measure quite 5 inches — that is, 10 inches from the tip of one arm to the tip of the one opposite — but that is unusual. In outline they bear a marked resemblance to a starfish. Its season of flowering is a long one, a succession of flowering shoots continuing to push up from the base until checked by frost. Its cultivation is of the simplest. Here I have it growing on a rockery in full sun in a compost of loam and limestone chippings in about equal proportions, with a good layer of the latter on the surface. It grows very rapidly. The rockery upon which it is growing was rebuilt a year ago and six or seven small tufts planted on a ledge behind a stone, and these have developed into a patch about two feet across. Like most Sedums, it is easily propagated. The flower-stems, as they lie upon the ground, emit roots, and the numerous growths which develop along its whole length offer a ready means of increase. J. D. Halliburton. Botanic Gardens, Bath. THE ALPINE FLAX. LiNUM ALPiNUM, the Alpine Flax, may have few or none of the virtues and utili- ties of the common Flax, but it has beauties which certainly commend it to the lover of dwarf flowers for the rock garden. This pretty Alpine Flax is of a neat habit of growth — its height is rarely more than from 6 inches to 8 inches, it has light and elegant foliage of the most fairy-like order, while its blooms are of a delightful shade of blue, and, when in bloom in summer, almost cover the plant with their delicate beauty. Nor is it dif&cult to cultivate, especially when a plant has once become established. It likes a free, open and dry soil, and to be planted in a sunny place. Yet it seems to appreciate a fair amount of moisture in summer ; and a good plant in the writer's garden, which has been placed on the lowest terrace of a little rockery, where it receives a good deal of the surplus moisture from above, flourishes excellently and gives a sheet of bloom on its fragile stems. Linum alpinum can be raised from seeds, which are best sown at this season under glass and the seedlings pricked ofi as soon as they can be handled into other pots or boxes about two inches apart and grown on a little before planting out. It can also be increased by dividing established plants in spring. S. A. DAFFODIL NOTES. GROUPS AND FLOWERS AT THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S SHOW ON MARCH 24. {Continued from page 168.) I denominator, one which, subjectively con- sidered from the putter-up's point of view, is irritating and perplexing ; but which, objectively, from the walker-about's standpoint, is sometimes attractive and inviting, and some- times, using the word in its ancient Tulip sense, bizarre. More difficult far than the most abstruse proposition of our old schooldays' friend, Mr. raised upon a square pedestal in the centre of each. The idea was ingenious, and is a decided " break " ; but the introduction on this occasion of a brown background when all the rest was covered with green seemed to me just to spoil it. And now for the individual flowers. Beginning with this group of Mr. Bourne's. Here were T is quite unintentional on my part, but I ; numerous examples of good standard varieties, find the three groups which will occupy the only new one being a very pretty little round my attention in these notes have a common white-perianthed Barrii with a large Poet-looking eye. It was not named. Then there was Millie Price, a nice little pale green-eyed Poet ; also Lemon Belle, a pale lemon, long vase-shaped variety, which Mr. Bourne tells me does splendidly with him at Bletchley ; also Red Chief, with its wide, deep orange red rimmed cup, as good in the open as in pots, cheap at its price ; also Cygnet, the late pale bicolor trumpet, which always looks effective in a group, possibly because of its clear-cut trumpet. Then there was Judge Bird, a large pointed flower of the same section as Cygnet ; also White Knight, to me the very acme of refinement in pure white trumpets, a flower that at its best can, in sporting parlance, show its heels to any other. Fancy this gem being grown in pots ! It is still (1914) listed at four guineas ; but, remember, last year it was seven. Among Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin's flowers three were fine novelties. I write of them in the order in which I would like to have them. First, Chryse, a cross between King Alfred and a Campemelle Jonquil. It might have been the true Jonquilla odorus Campanelle seen through a big magnifying-glass. It featured it so much, especially as it bore two blooms on a stem. I do -not think I have ever seen anything like it. It gets aAvay from the Buttercup style, with which we are now becoming familiar. Its dimensions are as follow : Diameter of perianth, 3^ inches ; length of cup, I J inches; diameterof its top, i J inches. If I could not have Chryse, then give me Supremacy, a pale yellow Ajax, distin- guished by its long, dehcate-looking trumpet and its pointed perianth segments. It is a seedling from King Alfred crossed with the Rev. D. R. Williamson. As it is ore of the first of their home-made'seedlings, I take the opportunity of congratulating the firm upon their achievement. Measurements : 4 J inches by ij inches by ij inches (this width only at the very top). Failing these two, I would then go for Gold Wolf. This is another Ajax, but the very opposite in almost every detail to Supremacy. It is deep yellow in colour, is a round more than a pointed flower, and is decidedly squat-looking, as the measurements of its trumpet will show. Length of same, iJ inches ; width at mouth, 2 inches. We want these difierences in general appearance, and of the thick set style this is a good example. Ivorine, a great favourite of mine (Section 4), looked very well among some yellows. I also thought Amphion, a new buff and orange double, very attractive ; perhaps it was owing the similarity of its shape to that of .Argent. Now I come to Messrs. Barr and Sons' exhibit. It was beautifully arranged and staged. I doubt if I have ever seen a large group that on the whole I liked better. The pot plants seemed a little discordant, and I wished they had not been there, or, at any rate, had been put at the extreme comer end. There were a goodly quantity of seedlings, all NARCISSUS WHITE KNIGHT, A REFINED WHITE- FLOWERED VARIETY. NOTE THE LENGTH OF THE TRUMPET. Drive-me-mad Euclid, is the problem of how to be original in the display of Daffodil blooms in and on a something that by the necessity of the case might almost be called " a line," which, as the aforementioned author tells us, is " length without breadth." The little group of which I am about to write has made the attempt. For some time past we have been familiar with the flattened crescent of Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin, with its Isolepis clad tier upon tier. Now we have Mr. Bourne and Messrs. Barr and Sons essaying the same hard task. The latter firm gave us a graceful undulation, clothed in the best of taste. It was a fine effort. Mr. Bourne had a more set piece. A half circular tiered stand occupied the middle of his display, at either end a quarter one. The two spaces between were flat, with a large Bamboo vase 182 THE GARDEN. [April ii, 1914. under numbers, and for the most part only repre- sented by one or two blooms. These it is impossible to describe. Of the named varieties, the following, for one reason or another, deserve honourable mention : Sunrise was before the cbmmittee, and received an award for cutting. The yellow ray in each petal which shocked the purists when it first appeared has been " sized up " by the public as one of its charms. It says much for it that every retail firm wants to buy it. Isis is a drooping bloom, which Mr. Rudolph Barr told me came out of the same seed-pod as King George V. and Miss Willmott. It is a sort of pale yellow King George V., which in turn is Miss Willmott made into a better show bloom than it is. Diameter of flower, 3 J inches ; diameter of petal, r J inches ; width of cup, three-quarters of an inch. Messina, which was represented by one perfect bloom, is a borderland plant. Up to now the Poet section has claimed it, and it appears in Messrs. Barr on. Twenty years back — why that was the year of " naughty " Weardale's first public appearance; only "naughty" because it was so dear (twelve guineas). " Naughty," as the little boy called the bird which his father had missed after a very easy shot. The bottom of my paper has " cut me off." I am once more before Sensation. It has been grown in pots, and looks well among all the new-comers. A half-crown will buy twelve. A half-crown might be worse spent. Joseph Jacob. FORSYTHIA SUSPENSA. In the latter part of March and early April Forsythia suspensa is one of the most beautiful of all hardy shrubs, for at this season its long, drooping branches are wTeathed in bright yellow, bell-shaped flowers. It is a shrub that can be depended upon to flower well every spring, and many pretty effects can ROSE-GROWING IN GARDENS. TOWN Twr P- FORSYTHIA'' .SUSPENSA OR GOLDEN BELL, ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL OF EARLY FLOWERING HARDY SHRUBS. and Sons' 1914 list as such. But I think this is wrong. For one thing, the periantli is not that dead white which is the feature of all others of a true-bred Poet ; and, secondly, its early flowering (it came from the open at Penzance) is rather a hint to doubt it a priori. The solid orange brick red eye, surrounded by a round, imbricated perianth, give us a very pretty bit of coloiu: ; but not, I think, a Poet. A vase of Sensation brought back old times to my memory. I can remember the days when it ranked high in our estimation. Twenty years ago it was priced at 4s. 6d. each, which, in propor- tion to the present charges for new varieties, was a high figure. Mme. de Graafi was but £3 and Glory of Leiden a guinea ; Gloria Mundi, 30S. ; Duchess of Westminster, 4s. 6d. ; and so be obtained by carpeting the surrounding ground with Chionodoxas, Grape Hyacinths or other spring-flowering bulbs. F. suspensa is a loose- growing shrub of more or less rambling habit, and it does very well against a wall, railing or fence. It is perhaps seen to the best advantage when grown as large isolated bushes on lawns, or, in a semi-wild part of the garden where the long shoots are not too restricted for space. The bush illustrated on this page is growing in such a position, and here the arching shoots, which are profusely flowered, droop down for 8 feet or more and root into the soil. Overcrowded shoots should be thinned out after flowering, but one should avoid pruning this shrub like a hedge, which is to deprive it of its truly graceftj and drooping habit. Standard Roses add greatly to the attractions of a town garden, but they should be employed ' with moderation, as a too free use of them tends towards formality, which it is generally desirable to avoid. They are useful aids to effect, and enable the gardener to. obtain raised and isolated patches of colour at certain spots where it is not convenient or expedient to plant climbers. They have also the advantage that the blooms may be examined with greater ease and without the discomfort of stooping. On the other hand, one cannot expect such good blooms as from dwarf trees, and very rarely is it possible to get them up to exhibition size without hampering the development of the head. Only the most vigorous kinds are suitable for growing as standards, and even with these there is often a large per- centage of losses. One frequent cause of this is that Briars are often budded before fibrous roots have formed, and club roots alone will seldom provide a plant with sufficient nourishment after being transplanted. The gardener should make a point of seeing standard trees before buying them, and select only those with plenty of top growth, which will indicate a fair proportion of fibre at the roots. Tall Weeping Standards are increasing in favour. They make effective ornaments on large lawns, though I think their use is rather to be deprecated in small gardens. I have seen them planted against a closely boarded fence, the growths tied along trellis-work at the top, and with low-growing climbers covering the fence beneath. The arrangement was certainlj' attractive, but the cost makes one a little chan,- of recommending it. The choice of varieties in weeping standards is generally limited to the wichuraianas, with which they are usually budded ; but Climbing Mrs. Cutbush should make an ideal Rose for the purpose, for it possesses the enormous advantage of being quite perpetual. Ordinary Full Standards, with stems from 3j feet to 4j feet long, are generally employed for planting at intervals around the edges of lawns, and this is perhaps the best use to which they can be put in town gardens. They may also be planted down the centre of beds of other Roses from 4 feet to 6 feet apart ; but beds of standards by themselves never look well, and they force upoii the onlooker an inevitable comparison of stems, which creates anything but a favourable impression. From their very nature they should be isolated, for grouping only tends to bring out ugly points, which are lost sight of when they are planted with discretion. For giving additional height to the centre of a bed, half-standards are to be preferred, and stems from ij feet to 2 feet long will amply suffice to raise them above the level of suitable com- panion trees. One frequently hears it stated that some Tea Roses do best on standard stocks, and certainly there are some varieties of spreading habit of growth and with blooms inclined to droop which may be better admired if grown in this way, and, moreover, the flowers will not become splashed from being too close to the ground during heavy rains. But I do not think there are any kinds which actually grow better as standards, unless it be that the gardener has not lightened his soil sufficiently to suit the warmth- loving roots of the Teas. A point of importance Supplement to THE GARDEN, April x\th, 1914 SUTTON'S NEW RED SUNFLOWER, kudson » Ueanis, Ltd., Printers, Loudon, S.E. i April ii, lyi+j with standards is to keep the steins clean and free tri)m moss, a simple enough matter if the grower will give them an' occasional wash with fungicide. It is also most important to protect all cut parts near the base, so as to avoid injury from sawfly larva, and painting with enamel, as recommended in a former article, will accom- plish this. The two varieties better than all others for standard Roses are Hugh Dickson and Frau Karl Druschki, and, having regard to the difficulty of obtaining really good heads in the average town garden, most growers would do well to rely entirely upon these two sorts. Others which may be grown with fair, if not equal, hopes of success are Mme. Abel Chatenay, Caroline Testout, Mme. Ravary, Lady Ashtown, J. B. Clark, Joseph Hill, Mme, Melanie Soupert ^ and La Tosca. P. L. Goddard. THE GARDEN. 183 SEASONABLE NOTES ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS. FIRST BREAK : STOPPING PLANTS. UDGING from the present condition of the plants, there seems to be a good prospect of free and healthy growth, at least during the first half of the Chrysanthemum season. The plants make rapid progress up to the stage when the first bud appears and causes the break. Then tjiey grow more slowly for a couple of weeks THE J but the earliest sorts, making a natural break in April or early in May, may show another bud early in June. The resultant growth from the second break in June will bear a good bud fit for " taking " in August, and I have found that such crown buds generally appear from August 15 to August 25, and they develop very kindly. It is necessary to stop some late varieties, else the work of the year would be thrown away. We will take that well-known sort, the Hon. Mrs. Lopes, as an example. If the plants were allowed to grow naturally from the cutting stage, their blooms would be practically useless, having open centres full of seed florets, with about two rows of guard petals. The blooms. A NEW SUNFLOWER. COLOURED PLATE 1491. A T the great show held in the /% grounds of Holland House, / % Kensington, at the com- ^~~^^ mencement of July last, * ^ Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, exhibited for the first time a Sunflower, with a rich chestnut red band surrounding the disc. This proved a great attraction to the numerous visitors at that exhibition. On Tuesday, July 29, a large exhibit of the flowers, sent up from the firm's trial grounds at Reading, was staged at the fortnightly meeting held in the Royal Horticultural Society's Hall, Westminster, and gained the distinction of the society's award of merit. It is a' very striking flower, with a broad band of chestnut red round the base of the yellow petals, and is the result of a cross made between Helian- thus annuus (the common annual yellow sunflower) and Helianthus lenticularis coronatus (the common wild Sunflower of North America) by Professor Cockerell of Boulder University, Colorado, who handed over his stock to Messrs. Sutton for development. The cross was made four years ago, and the strain has been under observation since, and is now well fixed. There has been no previous record of this colour in the popular Helianthus annuus, which is such a well-known and favourite annual in English gardens. Messrs. Sutton furnish us with the follow- ing description of the new sunflower : " A ' Gaillardia Sunflower * is ft very apt description of this brilliant new variety. It is of the true Helianthus annuus type, and we do not know a more stately or impressive subject for tall borders. As a dot plant, or grouped in the foreground of shrubberies, it is particularly telling. The plant is of free branching habit, producing numerous well-shaped, dark-centred, brilliant flowers, banded with bright chestnut red, mostly merging to yellow at the tips of the petals. The smaller and medium sized flowers, when cut with long stems, make a unique and magnificent decoration in large vases, and show to great advantage under artificial light. We are indebted to Messrs. Sutton and Sons for the use of the autochrome from which our coloured plate has been prepared. or so ; this is caused by the check through the formation of the bud. It is natural, and is all ' such as they would be, would open at the end of November. If, however, the plants are stopped in April, the resultant shoots would bear crown buds from July 25 to August 10, and they would develop into very fine, full blooms, rich in colour and refined in form, about the first week in November. If we take the old variety Mrs. A. T. Miller, which is a naturally early flower- ing one, we find the best results from non-stopping ; that is, the plant must be allowed to grow in spring until a bud appears — it generally comes during the first half of May — then the resultant shoots are grown on and, in due course, bear the first crown bud, which usually appears early in August — an ideal date for the variety being August 15 — but the buds often show quite a week earlier. This cannot be helped, and so everything must be done to retard the development. Although the repotting of the plants does not interfere with the growth, if done at the time the bud shows that causes the first break, it does if carried out when the tops are pinched off the plants. Stopping, therefore, should be done about a week before or a week after the repotting takes place. Avon. DENDROMECON RIGIDUM, A HARDY TREE BRIGHT YELLOW FLOWERS. POPPY WITH in the season's growth. The check caused by stopping the plants is about one-third more severe, and on this account I am not an advocate of stopping at all if there is any sign of a natural break being caused by the formation of a bud about the right date for each variety. A BEAUTIFUL TREE POPPY. DeNDROMECON RIGIDUM. The Poppy Order includes many in- teresting and beautiful garden plants. The genera Meconopsis and Romneya provide instances of flowers possessing rare and refined beauty. Dendromecon rigidum is another example, and if only better known it would be far more exten- sively grown. It is appropriately termed a Tree Poppy, since the growth is woody and the blossoms are unmistakably like those of the Poppy tribe. The flowers are bright clear yellow, with two caducous sepals, four petals and numerous stamens ; the leaves are lance-shaped. When planted in a light, rich, loamy soil against a sunny wall, it forms a large bush, and produces its flowers in May and I will very briefly explain. If a bud shows on ! early June. Like most other members of the April 15 and it is found that the particular variety i Poppy tribe, this plant is very impatient of root does best when topped about that date, then the | disturbance, and when once established it ought This delightful shrub occurs wild on the summit of the moimtaius near St. shoots growing after the naturil break will be better j not to be removed. than those following the stopping or pinching of the plant on the same date, because the growths following bud formation are always more likely to bear flower-buds at the right time in August. The very latest varieties will rarely show another bud before the one that appears early in .\ugust ; Barbara in North America, and it is interesting to record that between r83i and 1833 a number of plants were sent home by David Douglas, at that time plant-collector to the Royal Horti- cultural Society. 184 THE GARDEN. [Aprii. II, 1914. COLOUR EFFECTS GARDEN. IN THE IN attempting to comply with tlie request by a correspondent whose note appeared in a recent issue, on colour effects and colour arrangements. 1 wish it to be understood that in no sense do I claim to be an expert, not even in the sense that Donald Beaton, in the middle period of last century, was allowed to be, though he himself usually attributed his successful efforts in floral arrangements to the good taste of his mistress. Lady Middleton. The people who are successful floral colourists are regarded as the possessors of a natural instinct for colours. In a sense that is, no doubt, true, just as there are people who seem instinctively to mark the points of a sheep or a cow, or as a scholar takes to mathematics or languages. Some of the prettiest floral effects I have ever seen have been in cottage gardens, and composed of the cheapest material, the efforts of folk whose sole education has been picked up by observation and a few years' experience. But a little plot of T£RRf\C.E pleasing arrangements, and also those which, other- wise good, are spoiled by some insignificant detail, though no detail is insignificant that spoils a whole. Still, it is often noticeable that an indifferent scheme of colouring is rendered so by perhaps one colour which clashes with or depresses the tone of all the others ; and, of course, a note made of that wUl for all time be a warning. It was just such an inharmonious note in the coloured plate that appeared in the January 3 issue that caused me to pen the few lilies which has brought about the writing of this. The introduction of white weakened the strength of the pink and deeper tones, and the deep blue in the foreground intruded a discordant note which was harsh to a degree. I do not agree that blue should not be used with pink, especially if not a pronounced blue, and, in the scheme in question, had it been placed in the background it would not have been displeasing, even'Mf super- fluous. This, it will be observed, relates as much to the proper distribution of colours as to their association, and leads to a brief consideration of methods of distribution which are popular at the present time. In the coloured plate of January 3 the distribution is sho-\vn to be in longitudinal lines, PLAN OF A TERRACE GARDEN ARRANGED FOR COLOUR EFFECT. garden is manifestly not to be compared with that containing a series of beds and borders, and no one would expect a cottager, however successful in furnishing his own garden, to be able to work out with any degree of success a colour scheme for a gentleman's garden. But the point I wish to emphasise is that no one need despair of success who with all his mind attempts the higher flights. There is much diversity apparent even among those whose colour sense is largely developed. Some know good colouring, are able to recognise good points and bad ones, distinguish why they are good and bad, and detect inconsistencies which some to whom one would attribute the possession of equal accomplishments fail to detect, though they have the feeling that this is right and that Is wrong. Nor can these make anything of details. They usually are copyists of what is good in other people's gardens, and judging from the remarkable similarity to be found in floral arrangements in par- ticular localities, it is obvious that they must form the great majority. Copying, at least to some extent, is perhaps unavoidable ; but it is more to be commended in the breach than in the observance. Much better is it to make abundant notes of a method which has much to recommend it. The coup d'ceil is harmonious, whether the component parts are kept to separate lines or the colours most nearly approaching each other are mixed together. It is, moreover, possible to employ a great number of colours, not merely those from pink to red, but selected yellows at one side and blues at the other, without lowering the general effect in the slightest degree. It must be obvious how very advantageous this is in gardens of no great extent where variety has to be con- sidered. There are many people who esteem a collection of hardy plants mainly, and in all avail- able colours, as still the most attractive, and in this form, as an adjunct, can be studied to the highest degree and used to the greatest extent. Enough, however, has perhaps been advanced on mixed borders in the series published early in the year. Equally, if not more, important is the treatment of the strictly geometrical flower garden. Here, there is always the personal equation to be considered, and the likes and dislikes of the individual cannot be disregarded. But where there is a free, or a comparatively free, hand, the problem should be considered whether the most satisfying scheme be that which divides the colouring into sections with, perhaps, little connec- tion each with each, or a scheme which subordinates the whole to a dominant note. The latter, I am inclined to think, is the more aesthetic. It is not so much a question of variety, whether of colour or of form, in this case as its quality as a reasoned whole. In the plan shown the beds B B are of ornamental stonework raised 3 feet above the level of the lawn. These are furnished perma- nently with rose-coloured Roses, are carpeted with Nepeta Mussinii, and give the keynote to the colour scheme. The other beds this season are to be as follows ; A A — each of 800 square feet superficial — isolated masses of deep rose Larkspurs, which attain a height of 6 feet to 7 feet, the interspaces Verbena venosa, and a broad rim of dwarf Ageratum round the outer portion. The eight small beds (C), tall and dwarf Ageratums ; the H, cream ; the long, narrow beds (D D), inter- mediate and tall Antirrhinums in light pink to carmine pink ; E E have a line of Kniphofia Uvaria along the edge next the wall (I), and the other portion furnished with intermediate and tall, but mostly tall, Antirrhinums, of various shades of yellow, apricot, and a touch of red. F is a mixed border in which stronger colours will be admitted. G, on the other side of the cross walk, will come so far into the scheme, and the chief plants will be tall dark blue Larkspurs, with Statice sinuata, mauve, in the interspaces and dwarf Ageratum, as in A. While engaged in writing the foregoing, a note was received from a gardener regarding the plant- ing of a series of eight beds. The letter raises an interesting point. He proposes employing Verbena venosa, with Orange King Antirrhinum or Calceo- laria amplexicaulis to brighten it. The first of these two is not suitable ; the other would do were it the chief, and the Verbena the subsidiary plant. I myself am furnishing a detached border with Verbena venosa, a low wall at the back to be clothed with Nasturtiums of nasturtium colour, and a line in front of a faint yellow or amber- coloured Snapdragon. Neither will lower the tone of the Verbena, but, on the contrary, will enhance it, and thus the Verbena will never be other than the chief plant in the scheme. With the Calceo- laria there would always be a danger of it losing that position. The same thing happens when yellow is associated with a true blue, such as Salvia patens, and I have seen a block of the latter spoiled owing to the introduction of a few bright yellow Snapdragons among it. It will be seen that few of the beds above noted have edgings, and that these harmonise with the plants in the other beds. Edgings are by no means essential, and, unless very carefully selected, they are a source of weak- ness, if no worse, in a general scheme. In I9t3, edgings were more freely used than it is proposed they will be this year. The H was the same cream shade, but A A were a mass of Snapdragon Fire King and Calceolaria amplexi- caulis, dropping in stature to the edge by the inclusion of Cuphea strigillosa and Chlorophytura elatum, the dwarf variety with soft yellow variega- tion do\vn the middle of the leaf. C C were of pink Snapdragons \vith variegated Ice Plant edging each ; D D, grey-blue to true lavender ; E E, deep crimson tall Lobelia intermixed with common Cornflower, and a narrow edging of Lobelia Waverley Blue. There was a line at the furthest edge of the darkest blue Larkspur, but the plants were destroyed when young by game. Tyninghame. N.B. R. P. Bbotherston, April ii, iqi4.] THE GARDEN. 185 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. SEASONABLE WORK AMONG ANNUAL FLOWERS. THE Easter holidays come at a most convenient time this year for lovers of gardening. Among the numerous operations to be attended to at this date are sowing of seeds of annuals and pricking off seedlings, raised from seeds sown in the autumn and under glass I. SPRINKLING SEEDS ON FINELY SIFTED SOIL IN A WELL-PREPARED SEED-BOX. during February and early March, into boxes or transplanting outside. Sowing Seeds Under Glass. — The weather, whatever it is, will not interfere with the amateur gardener sowing seeds in shallow boxes, pans or pots, as this can be done under cover in a shed or greenhouse. For obvious reasons shallow boxes and pans are preferable to pots, for though we can put ample drainage in the bottom of the pots to compensate for their greater depth, the area of the surface soil for sowing the seeds is com- paratively small unless large, clumsy pots are brought into use. A larger area of soil permits of thin sowing, which is most essential, for not only is it a waste of seeds to sow thickly, but seedlings crowded in a small state are soon ruined. A very convenient size for the boxes is r4 inches long, 9 inches wide and 3 inches deep. Old kipper boxes from the fishmongers are very suitable. Should one have only a few seeds of a particular plant, divide a box in half by placing a stick across the centre, and sow two kinds of seeds in one box, taking care to choose sorts which will take about the same time to germinate. -THE SEEDLINGS SHOULD BE PRICKED OFF WHEN LARGE ENOUGH TO HANDLE. A suitable compost to iill the boxes consists of two parts loamy soil, one part leaf-mould, and one part coarse sand. Pass this through a quarter-inch mesh sieve, using the rough stuff remaining in the sieve to put in the bottom of the boxes for drainage. If the boxes are filled lightly with soil and the surface is then pressed down moderately firmly with a flat board, the soil will be about the right distance from the top. To obviate the necessity for watering the seeds as soon as sown, it is better to water the soil when the boxes are filled, and leave them to drain a few hours before sowing. The depth to cover the seeds depends on their size. The smallest need only have a slight dusting of fine silver sand. Larger seeds — Asters, for instance — require a thin covering of very finely sifted soil. Where to place the boxes after sowing depends on the convenience of the grower. A shelf in a cool or cold greenhouse, a hot-bed and a cold frame are all suitable. Without even these advantages the beginner need have no qualms ; cloches, hand-lights, or a sheet of glass placed over each box is sufficient protection to induce the seeds to germinate quicker, and affords them more protection than is possible out- side. To prevent the surface soil drying up rapidly, cover all seeds with paper till ger- mination commences. Sowing Seeds Outside.— Without going to an endless amount of trouble, as successful tiansplanting is very difficult, it is necessary to sow the following and other seeds out- side in the positions where the plants are to flower : Poppy, Mignonette, Miss Jekyll's Love- in-a-Mist and Larkspurs. On the other hand, most hardy annuals, if the positions in the beds and borders are occupied when the time for sowing seeds arrives, may be sown in prepared seed-beds outside and transplanted later into their permanent positions. ■ Sowing in temporary positions is more convenient in straight, shallow drills, otherwise the sowing may be broadcast, i.e., thmly all over the surface, or, as illustrated, in short lines, which are easier to thin out. Seeds sown outside require just a little more covering with fine soil than those sown in boxes. Pricking Out or Transplanting Seedlings. — There is work of this kind to do both in boxes imder glass and outside. .Antirrhinums, Hollyhocks, Pansies, annual Carnations, Delphiniums, Tobacco Plants and other seeds sown in heat tmder glass in February and early March are ready to prick off. Here, again, the shallow boxes recommended for seed-sowing can be utilised. Each of these with the seedlings pricked off as illustrated will hold from thirty-five to forty small plants. Out- side in the beds and borders there are the autumn- sown annuals to thin and transplant. Larkspurs, Poppies, Pot Marigolds and Collinsias may be mentioned. The illustration below depicts a group of such just ready for attention. .\s soon as trans- planting is done, water the seedlings, unless it is raining. In thinning do not be too drastic at first. It is often better to remove half the first time, and then go over the beds again a fortnight later. o. .A. DIVIDING PERENNIAL PHLOXES. Where it is intended to divide these Phloxes or make a new plantation, this is perhaps the best time of the year for that work. One hears numerous com- plaints about Phloxes not doing well, or that thev cannot be grown in this place or that. Perhaps in the majority of cases it is not so much the climate that is at fault as the position they occupy in the garden. If they are planted in a border where they will be partially shaded from the fierce rays of the sun and given copious supplies of water during the summer, there need be no fear of failure. Early in April give a good mulching of farm- yard manure, and let it remain on the surface all the season. Where extra fine spikes are re- quired, the shoots may be reduced to three or four 3. ANNUAL LARKSPURS SOWN IN ROWS IN AN OUTDOOR BORDER. THE SEEDLINGS ARE NOW READY FOR THINNING. on a plant, but for ordinary decorative purposes this will not be necessary. Cuttings taken off now and rooted in a cold frame will provide a nice show of bloom in the late autumn. THE HERBACEOUS BORDER. Where planting was not done in the autuum, this work may now be accomplished ; indeed, for the more delicate sorts spring planting is preferred. Many of the stronger-growing subjects, such as Senecio, Helianthus and Rudbeckia, will require to be re- duced, leaving strong growths from the outside of the group. The border should now be top-dressed with some good turf, manure from spent Mushroom- beds, and a good sprinkling of bone-meal. The utmost care must be exercised in pointing it over, more particularly where bulbs are grown. 186 THE GARDEN. [April ii. 1914. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. Strawberries in Pots. — Tlie ripening of these fruits has been delayed by sunless weather in March, but with lengthening days there should be no difficulty now in keeping up a'daily supply. Keep the plants well exposed to the light and examine the pots several times daUy. Give frequent supplies of liquid manure, for it is now almost impossible to give them too much water, especially if the pots are fully exposed to the light and air. Early Peach-House. — The fruits in this house will now have finished stoning and commenced their second swelling. At this stage the night temperature may be raised to 65° without danger, rising to 75° by day with sun-heat. Syringe the foliage twice daily, and shut the ventilators early in the afternoon to secure all possible benefit from sun-heat. If the borders are properly drained, liberal supplies of water should be given, and a dusting of artificial manure may be applied with advantage at alternate waterings. Vines. — In midseason vineries disbudding will now require careful attention, and should be accomplished whUe the shoots are in a young state, selecting those with the most promising bunch, at the same time having due regard to the length of the spurs. Admit air with caution, and shut the ventilators as early in the afternoon as is consistent with safety. As time advances and the Vines are growing freely, the shoots should be carefully stopped at the first or second eye beyond the bunch, according to the space avail- able, and this should be done at intervals so that no serious check may take place. Plants Under Glass. Fuchsias. — Old plants of Fuchsias which have been dormant through the winter and are now making fresh growth should be pruned and repotted. It is necessary to remove as much of the old soil from the roots as possible, in order to avoid the use of larger pots at the commence- ment of the season. Young plants which were struck in the autumn or spring should be grown in a temperature of 60° with plenty of atmospheric moisture. Chrysanthemums. — All late-struck plants should be potted into 6-inch pots as soon as possible. The compost should be moderately dry, so that it may be pressed tightly round the roots. The plants may afterwards be placed in a cold pit and kept close for a few days. Plants which were potted early must be freely ventilated, in order to keep them stocky. Keep a sharp look-out for fly, which must be destroyed at once if present on the plants. Cuttings may still be struck in a close, cool pit, and will make useful decorative plants for November and December ; 6-inch pots are the most suitable for this purpose. Celosia plumosa. — Seeds may now be sown in heat to provide a succession to those sown early in the year. The present sowing should produce well-developed plants for the conservatory during July and August. The early batch of plants may still be grown in a temperature of 60°. The Flower Garden. Sweet Peas. — Plants raised in pots will now be ready for planting in their flowering quarters. The ground is very cold and wet at present, but with lengthening days we may hope for better conditions shortly. The ground should be well forked over and a good sprinkling of fine bone- meal applied before the plants are put out. Great care should be taken that the roots are not injured when being transferred from the pots to the bed of soil. Allow ample space between the plants, as nothing will be gained by crowding, and, as soon as the planting is over, the sticks should be care- fully placed in position, A sowing may now be made in the open to produce fresh flowers through- out the late summer and autumn. Summer-Bedding Plants. — As soon as these are of sufficient size, they should be removed to cooler quarters. Lobelia and various dwarf subjects will benefit by being transplanted from the cutting-boxes into shallow frames; 4 inches of fine soil will be sufficient, and the plants should be placed as near the glass as possible. When they have made good growth and are of suitable size, the lights may be removed during the day in order to harden them off. Hollies. — The present is the best time to transplant Hollies. If dry weather prevails, the plants should be syringed several times daily and a good mulching provided. Protection from wind should be given, especially for specimen plants. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Apricots. — These trees will soon require dis- budding, as this should be commenced as soon as the shoots are large enough to hold between the finger and thumb. Commence by removing the back and fore right shoots, then those which are badly placed ; but do not remove too many at one time, as this mav cause a check and numbers of the fruits will drop. If disbudding is carefully performed, it will reduce the need for hard pruning in the winter. Retam as many well-placed shoots near the base of the tree as possible, but avoid overcrowding. Very little thinning of the fruit should be practised until the stoning period is over, unless in cases where a heavy crop has set. The Kitchen Garden. Vegetable Marrows. — Seeds may now be sown in small pots and grown in a slightly heated pit. As soon as they have developed their first rough leaf, they may be potted into 6-inch pots and grown under glass until the time for planting arrives. Salsify. — This vegetable may be sown about the middle of April in drills 18 inches apart, and thinned to 9 inches between the plants as soon as large enough to handle. Scorzonera may be sown now and treated in the same way. Asparagus-Beds should be examined, and if the surface has been beaten down by heavy rain, the soil should be very lightly pricked up and a good dressing of agriciiltural salt applied. There should be no delay in sowing Asparagus seed, and the seedlings should be ready for planting in two years' time. Sow in shallow drills 18 inches apart, and thin the seedlings to 6 inches as soon as large enough to handle. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunk. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Onions that were raised in boxes may now be planted out ; at least, any time from now till the end of the month. Of late years many private growers prefer sowing the bulk of their Onions in boxes in preference to sowing out of doors, and there is a good deal to be said for this practice where large bulbs are desired. It is generally admitted that transplanted Onions do not suffer so much from the ravages of the maggot as those sown outside. At the same time, where one has to have a supply of small Onions, it is necessary to sow in this way. Lettuces. — ^Those that were sown under glass and transplanted into boxes may now be safely planted out on some warm border. It should be remembered that Lettuces require a good, rich soil to produce nice, crisp heads, so that if the ground has not received a liberal dressing of manure earlier in the season, a little short stable litter should be forked in before planting. Broccoli. — Winter and spring Broccoli should now be sown, although many recommend sowing up till May. In our climate, however, I do not think this is advisable, as we generally find that the April sowing gives the best results. Prick out the seedlings in a prepared bed when large enough to handle, in a similar way to Cabbage, with this difference — that they should have more room between the plants. If one has not sturdy little plants to begin with, they will be sure to suffer during very severe weather. Egg Plants. — Although not grown extensively for cooking purposes hitherto, I am told these make quite a delicious vegetable. As they arc rather tender subjects, the seed should be sown in small pots indoors and the seedlings thinned out ; indeed, they may be treated in the same way as Tomatoes. As, however, they are subject to attacks from red spider, see that thev are not placed near Vines or Peaches, otherwise they may cause a good deal of trouble. Small Salads. — ■To provide a regular supply of these salads, a start should now be made with a small sowing outside. As the majority of these are surface-rooting plants, care must be taken to keep them well supplied with moisture at the roots. The Flower Garden. Linum Provinciale. — This !o%'ely Flax is m habit quite distinct from any of the other varieties of these fine perennials. The stems are quite erect, and taller than L. Lewisii, which is inclined to droop. Curiously enough, however, I cannot find it in any of the hardy plant lists 1 have by me. With us it is certainly the most out- standing plant of its colour (pale blue) in our herbaceous collection. Anyone who should happen to come across it would do well to add it to their collection. It has also the additional merit of blooming almost throughout the season. Repairing Paths. — Where this was not done earlier, no time should be lost in seeing to this very necessary work. During March the rainfall in some districts was abnormal, so that the drains and traps were severely tested in consequence. Where gravel is used on the paths, it %vould be advisable to have it passed through a riddle. This will rid it of soil, and assist in destroying weeds and moss. Some will say this is a big task. So it is, but it will pay if one can find time for it. The work, of course, must be done in fine weather. Stocks and Asters. — The earliest of these will now be ready for pricking off, at least when they attain the third leaf. As soon as they obtam a hold of the soil, remove them to some cool and airy house, as they will not do well in a close atmosphere. There is, however, still time to make a sowing; and should one be favoured with a good autumn, it is just possible this late sowing will produce the finest plants. Plants Under Glass. Herbaceous Calceolarias. — .\s these useful and attractive greenhouse plants become well rooted in their flowering pots, artificial feeding should commence. Calceolarias do not seem to care much for chemicals ; indeed, for the most part I would advise using liquid from the byre or stable, which will be found to be as good as any. In addition put a small bag of soot in the water tank ; this will be found to be a grand fertiliser. As soon as the flower-spikes appear, they should be staked with neat little sticks, which, if skilfully done, will scarcely be visible. When the flowers begin to open, the house must be shaded on bright days, otherwise the plants are inclined to flag. Artificial feeding should be discontinued when they come into bloom. Pruning the Myrtle. — Only in very favoured districts in the North can one risk growing this plant out of doors. In the conservatory it is inclined to get somewhat out of hand, and the present time will be suitable to prune back straggling shoots. An opportunity should be taken to give it a thorough cleansing ; this is best done with a garden engine when the young growths are about three inches or four inches long. A few cuttings might be inserted in pots, and when rooted I find they make useful plants for furnishing the greenhouse. Hippeastrums (Amaryllis). — No time should be lost in getting the main batch into heat. If it should be necessary to repot any of the larger bulbs, do so now, using some good loam and charcoal. In most cases, however, top-dressing will be all that is necessary. Plunge them in Cocoanut fibre, and water very sparingly until the flower-spikes appear. Fruits Under Glass. Mealy Bug on Vines. — Although the resting period is the proper time to rid the Vines of this dreadful pest, it is surprising how the insects persist in making their appearance even after we had thought we had got rid of them. Still, we must exercise patience and keep working away, and much can be done even now by going over the Vines from time to time with a small camel-hair brush dipped in methylated spirit and just touching the insects, which will at once destroy them. John Highgate. (Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.) Hopelouii Gardens, Snidli Qiiniisfc'iry, N.H: April ii, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 187 BLUE AND RED HYACINTHS. SOME INTERESTING FACTS. THROUGH the kindness of Messrs. M. van Waveren and Sons of Hillegom I have enjoyed in my greenhouse last month and this a very considerable collection of single Hyacinths of various shades of blue, pink and red. A bulb of each variety was put into three different sized pots ; otherwise in every other detail all were treated exactly alike. They were potted on the same day, placed in the same position to root, and brought at the same time into the greenhouse. The Best Sized Pots. — My experience, which may be of interest and of some utility to others, is as follows. First, I was rather surprised to find how little difference the size of the pots made. Four-inch or 6-inch brought almost equally good spikes, and even in some extra deep ones, where there was considerably more root room, the difference was but slight. On the whole, I would advise 5-inch pots as being the best and most convenient for first-sized single bulbs. Four- inch pots are quite large enough for second-sized ones. The Strongest Growers. — Secondly, although according to St. Simon, who published a famous monograph on the Hyacinth in r668, red was probably the original colour of the flower, I can only say that I liked the red shades the least of all I grew, and that I found them to be decidedly the poorest doers. The strongest and the most pleasing were the pale blues and the pinks. These were without the smallest doubt by far the most popular among the visitors who saw the collection. Pale or light blue varieties have always, I fancy, been favourites, ever since, as I might say, there were Hyacinths. In 1703, in the " Dutch Gardiner " we find only blue ones mentioned (sic) : " The Hyacinth, that is handsom must have a clear Porcelin or China Blew, or near a white Colour, great Nails standing round the stalk in a Pyramidal fashion, but running up more Taper- wise." Other shades and colours were in existence, but they were esteemed less choice. At the time of the Hyacinth mania (1733-34), according to a contemporary list of prices, whites must have been quite as popular and as much thought of as pale blues, although the one of highest value was a blue Non Plus Ultra, one bulb of which, with its natural offsets, changed hands at 1,600 guelders (about one hundred and thirty-three pounds). In the Hyacinth catalogue given by St. Simon (r668) blues predominate, both as doubles and singles. Whites come next, then red and rose, and then, a long way off them in numbers, come five single yellows. Hence this date must mark the first beginnings of this colour in the Hyacinth. But all this is of academic interest only. Nice as it is to know just a wee bit of a flower's history, a matter-of-fact public will be thinking, as their eyes run over these lines, of their next bulb order, and they will be wondering what, after all this superfluous steam, I am going to advise them to buy. So no more dipping into the past. Anon to the present. The Blue Varieties. — Taking the blues first, and according my own special favourites the premier position, I would bracket together for the pale blues, Perle Brilliant, short, loose spike with beautiful large bells, with light blue exteriors and pale mauve insides ; Grand Maltre, tall spike, of Dutch china blue ; Competitor, late flowering, wide segments, a paler shade of the last ; and Potgetier, a lovely pale silvery blue, drooping bells, the whole spike reminding me of a Spruce with snow on its branches. For the dark blues I must put Menelik, very dark, compact spike, each petal has an almost black stripe down its centre and is edged with very rich deep purple ; and William III., loose spike, dark blue bells, as equal first. Both are excellent and of quite a different style and shade of colour. The former has a very glossy appearance, while the latter is distinguished by its light-looking spike and whitish eye. In the Pinks two beauties are Lady Derby, superb shade of soft pink, with a slightly deeper line in the centre of each segment, late flowering, medium.sized spike ; and General de Wet, a paler pink, long spike, bells not too crowded, each segment curls back, good doer. Then for a third I must go to Ornament Rose, very pale, waxy- looking bells, compact spike ; or to Rose k Merveille, if a still paler shade is desired. This latter I would describe as a cream almost more than a pink, it is so pale. Four Hyacinths of deeper colouring that always seemed to catch my eye were Lord Macaulay, bright rose with paler centre, rather crowded spike, not over long ; Queen Wilhelmina, one of my favourite loose spikes, pretty rose pink, curious hook on tip of each petal ; Solfatare, cherry colour with whitish eye, spike short, flowers look rather as if they were on stilts — still, with all defects, a most pleasing shade ; and King of the Scarlets, most distinct, back of petals vermilion, face rich bright crimson, tips of petals inclined to be green. I have forgotten Garibaldi, for it was long past its best when these notes were taken. On no account must I omit it, for it is a grand extra early of great lasting quality, and, as the lists say, of a glowing carmine. So ends my selection. I know the varieties are not the ones that everyone would choose. I seem to be attracted to the mid-blues like Grand Maitre, Count Andrassy, Competitor and the like, more than to the pale mauves like Czar Peter and Johan. When I go to the pales I like the blue tint in Potgetier, while the long spike of Electra is charming. In pinks my taste seems more normal, and perhaps most of those who have seen my flowers have chosen as I have done. Jacques, with its immense Sprucey-looking spike, is excellent. Of the varieties with pronounced stripes, which somehow always remind me of the Paradise sweets of my childhood, I think Queen Maria Sophia, a very early bloomer, and Fabiola, which is decidedly on the late side, the most pleasing. Joseph Jacob. EDITORIAL NOTICES. Everp department of horticulture is represented in The Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions relating to matters upon which they wish expert advice. The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes, but he will not be responsible for their safe return. Alt reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps are enclosed, he ivill endeavour to return non-accepted contributions. As regards photographs, if payment is desired, the Editor asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated. It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo- grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with. The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic or literary contributions ivhich he may not be able to use, and the receipt of a proof must not be taken a^ evidence that aji article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone be recognised as acceptance. Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor intends to make The Garden helpful to all readers vjho desire assist- ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Plants for namiiig should be clearly numbered and securely packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering shoots, ivhere possible, should be sent It is useless to send small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters on business should be sent to the Publisher. FLOWER GARDEN. PROTECTING SAXIFRAGA BURSERIANA {M. J.).~ The plant itself is (juite hardy, and would require uo protection from that point of view. If, however, you wish to preserve its beauty at flowering-time, then a sheet of glass for protection would be best, raising it a few inches above the tuft. The glasts should be large enough to cover the entire plant and to prevent the rain dri\ing under to destroy the etfect. A miilcliing of granite chips about the plant would also assist to tlie same end. GROUPING LILIUM CANDIDUM AND ANCHUSA (M. M. K. C.).— Such a grouping by way of contrast would look very well, provided both could be had in flower together. If you are only now planting the Anchusa, it is hardly likely that a satisfactory flowering will follow this year, and both plants are better when established. If you employ the Delphinium and white Lupine in addition to the above, tne former would have to figure as a front-row plant by reason of its dwarfness. If an edging is desirable, you could not have anything better than the white Pink Mrs. Sinkins, which would be in keeping with the scheme you liave already in view. ALPINES FROM SEEDS {E. fl".).— Very few of those you name come absolutely true wlien raised from seeds. Aster alpinus, Aubrietias, l)ianthus, Gentian, Saponaria and others all vary slightly. Happily for the gardener, for progress and for evolution that it is so. Some plants — the first two named arc generally good instances — give a great variety of colours when raised from seeds. Some are the veriest weeds, others the finest geais, and the gardener, by discarding the former and propagating thr latter, is left with vastly improved strains of each. Plants difficult to improve by cross-breeding are frequently endowed with the inherent attribute of great variability when raised from seeds, an(^ in that way provide a wide range of colour. TO GROW MOSS BETWEEN PAVEMENT STONES {Artist). — The best way to establish moss between pave- ment stones is to thoroughly soak the stones and interstices with water ; then introduce patches of mass. Keep the moss damped over regularly for a period of several weeks, and in the event of hot, dry weather occurring, shade it lightly and damp the shading material several times a day. These patches mil fruit later in the year, and the moss will gradually spread over the desired area. It is not possible to purchase spores to sow. There is no special chemical condition of the soil necessary for the establishment of moss, but it must be permanently moist — that is why moss increases so rapidly during the autumn and early winter. PENTSTEMON AND ROSE (JSur(aft).— Generally speak- ing, the hybrid Pent^trnmns, to which no doubt you are referring, flower more abundantly, though naturally somewhat later, on the cut-back plants. Those left alone flower earlier, but the spikes — and the flowers, usually — are less flue. This state of things is, however, modified by weather conditions, and the plants rarely behave exactly alike in two successive seasons. \Mien cut back, it should be to \\1thin 2 inches of the ground, the operation taking place early in March. If the shoot of tlie Rose is well matured, it may be pruned back to 18 inches from the ground-level, or to any prominent eye or bud at about that point. Should the growth referred to be late made and sappy, good eyes or buds would be scarce at the height mentioned, and such pruning to a foot from the ground would only result in sappy g^o^^'th again. On the other hand, a well-ripened shoot might be shortened to half its length, and, pegged near the ground, would give a moderately good fiower from every prominent eye on the stem. PLANTING ALPINES {K. E., Cheshire).— Dunng the early spring months quite a large number of alpines may be di^^ded and replanted with hope of success. Generally speaking, early April is a good time for the operation, while established examples may be planted from March to May inclusive. All seedling alpines should be transplanted or transferred to more permanent positions in the spring, the object being to afford the young plants a full season's growth ahead in which to make good specimens. The Dryas and Soldanella could be transplanted at any time ; the Anemone seedlings at any moment 188 THE GARDEN. [April ii, 1914. Wiicu they are on the move. Many alpines are easily raised from seeds, and if you have the necessary patience and convenience for dealinji mth such thinss, it would pay you a lumdredfold. If you do not possess these essentials, you should buy plants. Seed should first be sown in boxes, pots or pans, and the seedlings pricked off before giving them their permanent positions. Some mav be so^\ti in'frara'^s, others in drills in the open. The address of .Mrs. I.Ioyd Edwards is Bryn Oerog, near Llangollen, North Wales. TRANSPLANTING GODETIAS (Mrs. Walton). —These do not transplant well, particularly when they have attained to any size. Far better results are obtained when the seeds are sown where required and early thinning resorted to. Both these and Clarkias may be transplanted in their earliest stacies if the work is carefully done and the plants watered^ intelligently. If you desire a good display, it would be better to transplant them into pots when "quite voung. and from these to the flower-beds where required. The skms might be disposed of by a dressing of some soil fumigant when the ground is \'acant. STONE DAMAGED BY FROST (E. F. 0.)— "We fear from vour description that an unsuitable stone has been emplo'ved. Most types of stone harden by exposure, while 'certain others, no matter how placed, yield to the influences of weather and climate. If we are correct ID our surmise, disiutegration will continue, particularly in times of frost. A little of this is often advantageous, i.e., svmpathetic to vegetable life ; but if disintegration is coiitinuallv going on, or present in large degree, we can only conclude, in the absence of fuller particulars or an examination on the spot, that the stone is itself of too soft a natiu'c. Wc know of no chemical that will harden it. TREES AND SHRUBS. CREEPING ARBUTUS {V. P. F.).— By Creeping Arbutus we presume that Arctostaphylos Uva-ursi is meant, or, perhaps, A. alpina. The former is the better trailer and has been called Arbutus. The most likely firm to apply to for plants is Messrs. James Smith and Sons, Darley Dale, near Matlock. If they do not stock the plant, it is likely that they could procure it. HEATHER FOR EXAMINATION (FT. £.).— There was uothing about tlu^ specimen of Heather sent for examination to enable us to determine the cause of death. It may be that some fungous disease has attacked the roots ; or a root-eating grub, such as the larva of the cockchafer, may have been at work, but there was nothing to betoken the presence of either. Examine the ground and surround- ing plants carefully for grubs or fung\is mycelium. TO PRUNE A BAY TREE {Eglinto?}). —The Bay tree may he pruned hard back about the middle of April. If the plant is iu a tub and you can arrange to place it in a greenhouse mth a close and moist atmosphere for a few weeks, keeping it well syringed two or three times a day, shoots will appear more freely than if the plant is left out of doors. If it is planted out, however, and the weatlier is dry, the production of new growth may be assisted by syringing two or three times a day. TO PROPAGATE ERICA CARNEA (G. K. il/.).— This Erica may be increased by any one of three methods — by seeds, by layers, or bj* cuttings. Seeds should be gathered when ripe and sown on the surface of pans or boxes made up of sandy peat. Drain the pans or boxes well, then make up to within an inch of the top with coarse compost, over this place half an inch of finely sifted compost pressed level and moderately firm. Sow the seeds thinly over the surface, water by soaking, and put in a shady place in a moist greenliouse. Cover with a sheet of glass and afterwards with paper. The seedlings will appear in about a fortnight. As they grow, gradually remove the glass, and when large enough to handle prick the seedlings off in a prepared bed of sandy peat in a cold frame. Layers may be put down at any time during spring or early summer. Place sandy peat beneath the branches, and weight the branches down by means of stones. They must be left for two years before being taken off as separate plants. Cuttings of young shoots may be made from 1 inch to lA inches in length during July and August, and be inserted in pots containing a compost of two parts peat and one part sand, made very firm. The pots must be placed under bell-glasses in a shaded and close frame. Cuttings of the same kind may also be rooted in sandy peat if placed under a handlight in a shady place out of doors. Plants raised from cuttings are usually the most satisfactory of all, but as the cuttings are so smail they need very careful handling and must be inserted with great care. They root in from four to six weeks. THE GREENHOUSE. INJURY TO ASPIDISTRA (Homo). — It is Im- possible to say what has been damaging your Aspidistra from the specimens sent. It may be slugs, which hide in the soil during the day ; but can it be through the scratching of cats ? PELARGONIUMS NOT DOING WELL (Moon).— The appearance of the foliage of the Pelargonium suggests that It has been growing under unfavourable conditions of moisture and temperature. There may also have been an attack of aphides, but the main damage Is the result of too moist an atmosphere. PHYLLOCACTUS NOT DOING WELL (./. W. M.).— These farther specimens enable us to say there is a fungus allied to the " damping olf " fungus growing In the brovvn part at the base of the stem, though the upper parts are free. No doubt the conditions have been too moist and close for It, and we recommend you to bake the soil before you plant healthy cuttings In it. and take care that the drainage is ample and overwatering is strenuously avoided. FEATHERY CHRYSANTHEMUMS (S. Z.).— The plants make breaks and show crown-buds in just the same way as other sections; but both the varieties — namely, Jitsujetul and Mrs. W. Butters — do best when left to make natural breaks, and then produce natural shoots. If disbudded at the end of August, the resultant blooms will possess many petals, but short. Do not, therefore, disbud, bxit let the plants flower naturally ; then the sprays will be fluffy and attractive. GRUBS ON ADIANTUMS (N. £.).— The grubs are the larv* of a weevil about three-eighths of an Inch long and much the colour of the soil. They do great damage to roots of various greenhouse plants, and, when they mature, the beetles feed upon the foliage of Ferns and the like, and on shoots of Vine and even on foliage of fruit trees. They are troublesome pests to deal with, but as you are repotting the Ferns It would be best to pick all the larvce out which are to be found In the pots. Tliey may be killed by pouring a teaspoonful of carbon bisulphide into a hole niade in the soil with a piece of stick, closing It again immediately. The weevils hatch in April or May, and when they are about, if the pots are shaken after dark (when the beetles feed) over a piece of paper or cloth, many may be captured and killed by dropping them in hot water or paraffin. ABOUT CHRYSANTHEMUMS (J. GX — Tobacco water may be used on the foliage as a preventive of the leaf-mining maggot. A tablespoonful to three quarts of water would be a strong enough dose. Quassia extract, used according to the directions given with it, would be better, and petroleum emulsion, violently stirred in water, is also good. A wlneglassful to a gallon of water will do. If these mixtures — the last two referred to — are syringed on the leaves once a fortnight, they will prevent the fly laying eggs in the leaves. If the shoots of the plants are stopped, 2 inches being pinched off the end, the flower- ing of the plants will be delayed a fortnight or so, but the quality of the blooms will not be as good as those on plants not as severely stopped. The best way is to retard the plants and the development of the buds in the autumn. No ; it would not be advisable to saturate the potting compost with liquid manure before use. Please send some Sweet Pfa plants for inspection. TREATMENT OF BORONIA MEGASTIGMA (J. 31. B.). — When the plant has done flowering it should be cut back Into a neat, compact shape. Then, if kept in the greenhouse, young shoots would soon be pushed out, and as soon as these are about half an Inch In length the plant must be repotted. For this purpose the pot should be a size larger than the old one, quite clean and effectually drained. A suitable potting compost is good fibrous peat and sand. This must be pressed down very firmly, and care taken not to bury the ball of soil deeper than it was before. Seeds are occasionally to be obtained, and when this is the case, they afford a ready means of Increase. At the same time, seedlings do not fiower lu a small state in the same profusion as plants raised from cuttings ; hence this latter method Is usually employed for their propagation. Cuttings arc not at all easy to strike, the most successful method being to dibble them into well-drained pots filled with fine peat and sand, pressed do\\Ti firmly, and covered \vith a bell-glass till rooted. VARIOUS QUESTIONS (G. A. 17.).— From what you say about your Hose Mar6chal Nlel we imagine that the soil in the bed has become sour. Possibly the bed Is not well drained. It may be, however, that Improper ventila- tion, , resulting In mildew, is the cause. Should there appear to be signs of mildew, spray the leaves with Bordeaux mixture, which may be procured from a chemist. If the leaves contmue to fall, remake the bed, taking care to drain it well at the time. The manure you propose using is quite suitable for a healthy plant, but If the soil Is to blame, it \vill not assist your Kose. Perhaps a local expert could be mduced to call and examine the condition of your bed. You may repot your Deutzia at once, using a compost of four parts good loam to one part each of leaf-mould, well-rotted manure and sand. After flowering, the old flowering shoots should be cut awav. Your Ivy- leaved Geraniums may be expected to break again quite vigorously from the old wood. Cut the dead ends of the shoots away at once, then keep the plants syringed twice a day until new shoots appear. Your plant of Plumbago capcnsis may be repotted at once, using a compost of two parts fibrous loam to one part of leaf-mould or peat, wth a little well-rotted manure and sand. If it has not been pruned, prune the branches back at once. Those formed last year may be removed to within a few buds of the base. It Is impossible to say what the worms were which you discovered in your soil, neither can we say whether they are likely to be detrimental to plant growth or not. You cannot do better than cut your Oleander well back at once, then keep the branches well syringed until new shoots are formed. You may then repot it in soil similar to that recommended for tlie Deutzia. ROSES INJURED BY PESTS (MUs i).).— From your description it looks as tliougli the damage was caused by the leaf-cutter bee, or mason bee as it is called. Thi> pest generally nests in hard gravel walks or in holes in old walls, and may be seen hovering over the Koses on a sunny morning. The only remedy Is to watch for it and trace It to its nest, which, of course, should be destroyed. Or it may be the Bose slugworm caused the damage by eating the surface of the foliage, which, in time, would cause the holes. For this, spray the bushes with nlcotlnr wash or Hellebore wash. You could spray now and con- tinue at frequent intervals through the early sumni'T. FRUIT GARDEN. INJURY TO PLUMS ( Reig ate). —Yom Plums have no doubt been attacked by the leaf-curling aphis. These pests hatch out about the last week in March, and sprajing should be done as soon as they can be disco\erfd on thr opening buds, using either one of the nicotine sprays or Quassia and soft soap. FRUIT TREES ATTACKED BY SCAB yBrockley).— Your trees are attacked neither by mildew nor by canker, but by scab. The best thing you can do with them is to remove ail the dead or dying wood, spurs and the like, and to spray the trees with Bordeaux mixture at half the strength used for spraying Potatoes, beginning just as the buds are ready to burst (but before they open), and repeating at intervals of about three weeks. Take care that the spraying is done when bright sun is not shining upon them. From what you say, we think your Apple Cox's Orange must be planted in a draughty place. ROSE GARDEN. ROSES BY POST TO AMERICA {U. S. ^.).— There is considerable difficulty in sending Roses to America, as one must obtain a permit from the Agricultural Depart- ment at Washington. You might apply to the Board of Agriculture, 4, Whitehall Place, London, W., or ask your nurseryman to get one througli for you. Or, if you care to do so, Avrlte to some American flrm of Koso- growers and ask them to post a plant on to your friend. Doubtless Messrs. H. Dreer and Co. of Philadelphia, Massachusetts, would do this for you. KITCHEN GARDEN. CHINESE ARTICHOKES (Valetta).— To grow these suc- cessfully the tubers should be planted at once, 3 Inches deep, 6 Inches apart and 12 Inches from row to row. Choose a south or west aspect. These revel in a light sandy soil, to which plenty of well-decayed leaf-mould should be added. About twelve tubers usually make one good dish. BROCCOLI DAMAGED BY A FUNGUS {Me of Wight).— The spots on the leaves of the Broccoli are due to a fungus which attacks almost all varieties of the Cabbage tribe, and might be kept In check by spraying with a solution of an ounce of potassium sulphide in three gallons of water when the disease first makes its appearance. It seems too late to do anv good now, FRENCH BEANS {Valetta). — Unless proper methods are adopted, the crop would not be very satisfactory at this season of the year. A greenhouse temperature would hardly suit them, as these ^nll require at least 55" to 65" of heat, varying with the outside temperature. The cause of your foliage looking yellow in all probability would Ije too low a temperature, and most likely the plants too wet at the root ; leaf -soil would not be the cause. The pots should be well drained and a light, moderate compost used. The presence of red spider is due to the atmospheric conditions of the house being too dry. This pest cannot thrive in a moist temperature. MISCELLANEOUS. POTASH FOR TOMATOES (IF. P.).— Potash may be applied to Tomatoes in the form of sulphate of potash, either by mixing with the soil or by dissolving In water at the rate of half an ounce to the gallon, and watering with It occasionally. CREOSOTING A FENCE (E. P.).— Y'our neighbour has full right to creosote not only his own side of the fence In question, but your side as well ; but he has no right to go upon your land to do so. In other words, If you object to your neighbour going upon your garden for the purpose of crcosoting the fence, you must hand over the fence In order to creosote your side, as other- wise he would commit a trespass. Your neighbour woiUd be quite justified In compelling you to remove the posts supporting the wires If same are attached to the fence. Small quantities of creosote touching the bark of a dormant tree would not be likely to do a great deal of harm to it, though it would be deadly to foliage. The dang;er lies maiiUy m the fumes affecting tender shoots, as they would be likely to do, and in the possibility of some of the creosote washing down to and affecting the roots. The latter is probably less likely than the former, but fumes would continue to be given off for some time in warm weather. There would be much less danger if the work were done in November than If it were done now. THE VALUE OF SOOT (Toajic).— Perhaps the follo\nng Information may be of value to you \\ith regard to soot. Its chief manurial value lies in the nitrogen it contains. Soots from short chimneys arc usually much richer in nitrogen than from tall ones ^\^th a very strong draught. Those from the latter are usually very poor in nitrogeo, and contain a considerable amount of ash. Soot is best valued by the amount of nitrogen it contains, and its value varies from about twenty-four shillings to five pounds a ton — the hghter samples being the better. A good soot should give four bushels to tlio hundredweight and be worth about sixpence a bushel. There is practically no other manurial substance of value In the soot, but it has somewhat greater value in the garden than these figures show. It helps to darken soil, which renders it more absorbent of heat, and its carbon, no doubt, aids In remov- ing toxic substances, just as charcoal does. We regret we cannot carry out analyses for our correspondents. Fellows of the Royal Horticultural Society may get them done at a reduced fee bv Dr. A. .T. Voelcker of 1, Tudor Street, E.C. I ^^^jU^t. GARDEN. -^=^*|«K^=^=^ No. 2213.— Vol. LXXVIII. April 18, 1914. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Early Strawberries. — Anyuue liaving a number of plants not required for forcing can have an early supply of fruit outside by planting these in a trench such as one would plant Celery in. The trench should be 4 feet wide by i foot deep. In this plant three rows of Strawberries, and when they commence to grow, a few old lights may be placed over them, which will provide the necessary protection. Many fine dishes of excellent fruit we liave seen gathered from plants treated in this way. A Fine Strain of Olivia miniata.— There are at Kew flowering now in the Temperate House and House No. 4 some magnificent varieties of Clivia miniata. The flowers are remarkable for their size, some of the individual flowers being over (ciur inches across, while there are as many as twenty blooms on a single truss or inflorescence. The flowers have broad, over- lapping segments of bright orange hue, paling off to yellow at the base. Some of the flowers in shape and in the curvature of the anthers re- semble those of the Amaryllis. The Hoop-Petticoat Daffodil. Some of the diminutive Nar- <'issi are really lovely in the rock garden, but it is 'doubtful if any of them are so beauti- fully adapted for associating with choice alpines as the Hoop- Petticoat Daflodil, botanically known as Narcissus Bulbo- codium. The flowers of the species are bright yellow, but the variety citrinus, native of the Pyrenees, has sulphur- coloured flowers, which are even more pleasing. The bulbs should be allowed to establish themselves in a light soil and sunny position on the rock garden, as they do not, as a rule, all bloom the first year after planting. Green Fly on Roses. — Complaints have reached us from several districts about aphides attacking the young shoots of Roses. On making investi- gations we find the trouble is a serious one, in some instances nearly all the young shoots being badly infested. Of course, the majority of these would be removed at pruning-time, and, let us hope, consigned to the flames. We draw attention to the pest now to put readers on their guard. Steps should be taken at once to spray all bushes wherever there is a possibility of insects being present, but the insecticide should be used weaker 6-inch pots. Place a 4-foot slake in each pot and than it would be later on when the foliage is harder. Sowing Lawn Grass. — Those having lawn grass seed to sow will find the present as good a time as any ; but, of course, much will depend on the state of the soil. It is essential that the surface should be got into a very fine state by repeated raking and rolling. As most of the seeds of the finer grasses are very light, the sowing must be done on a calm day, otherwise the seeds would be blown into patches, which is most objectionable. train up the leading shoot, rubbing out all side growths as they appear. Stop the plants at the top of the stake to induce them to form a head. Some time in July they should be plunged out of doors till the autumn. About next February they may be potted into g-inch or lo-inch pots and brought on gradually. It is not advisable to pinch out the flowers at any stage of their growth ; this gives the plants a check. Rather let them grow naturally. Watering Recently Planted Trees. — Should .As sparrows and finches are particularly fond of the weather be hot and dry, all recently planted grass seeds, it will be necessary to protect the ' fruit trees shoiild receive a good soaking. Indeed, if it were possible, one might use the hose for this purpose. This will not only supply moisture, but wash the fine soil among the roots. When this has been done, replace the mulching, and the pos- sibilities are that the trees will not require another watering for some time. Planting Border Carna- tions.— If these were potted in the autumn and have wintered in cold frames, no time should be lost in plant- ing them in their permanent quarters. The soil for this purpose should be rich, with a fair quantity of sand among it, and if this was dug early in the year, so much the better, as nothing will be necessary now beyond break- ing and levelling the surface. The plants should then be carefully removed from the pots and planted firmly in straight lines at equal dis- tances apart. Frequent dust- ings of soot may be given with advantage during the growing season. The Common Dog's-Tooth Violet.— Erythro- nium Dens-canis is one of the most interesting of hardy plants flowering at the present time. Even when out of bloom it is attractive, the leaves being mottled with a brownish colour. There are a number of beautifvd forms, from pure white to dark purple, while some have broader segments. A colony of these is of great interest, and it is surprising that this old-fashioned flowei is not made more use of. A peaty soil, with some shade, suits it best, although it grows and flowers satisfactorily in the full sun, NARCISSUS BULBOCODIUM CITRINUS, A CHARMING VARIETY OF THE HOOP-PETTICOAT DAFFODIL. plat in some way. If this is not too large, herring-nets can be used. On larger patches black thread may be placed on small twigs run across the ground in various directions. Ordinary lawns should now be swept and rolled, and where the grass is growing freely a start should be made with the mower. Standard Heliotropes for the Conservatory. — These make a splendid addition to our summer- flowering plants in the conservatory. To those who have not gone in for this style of growing Heliotropes, the present is a very good time to make a start. Select some strong plants that have been grown in pots, and pot on, say, into 190 THE GARDEN. [April i8, 1914. CORRESPONDENCE. {The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents.) glandulosa, Arenaria balearica, Ametua echioide*, Aster alpiiius, Aubrietia Moerheimii, Campanula G. F. Wilson, C. muralis, C. ponenschlagiana major. Pianthus negleclus, Dryas octopetala, Erinus alpinus, Geranium argenteum ,G. lancastri- New Zealand Flax (Phormium tenax). — Thf ease, Gypsophila prostrata, Haberleo rhodopensis, cultural directions for this valuable plant given Hutchinsia alpina, Iberis sempervueiis Little in The Garden of .\pril 4, page 176, seem to me I Gem, Mertensia primuloides, Myosotis rupicola, somewhat misleading. It is true that it will Onosma tauricum, Papaver alpinum, Phlo.x grow well iu " good. loamy soil," but that is by canadensis Laphamii, Primula clusiana, Ramondia no means essential to its vigour. In its native Nataliae, R. pyrenaica, Saponaria ocymoides country, I believe, its natural habitat is on land splendens, Saxifraga pyramidalis, Sempervivum subject to winter inundation, and on sandy and arachnoideum, Silene alpestris, Tunica Saxifraga shingly river banks. In the South- West of and Viola gracilis. — J. M. Struowmax. Marlborough Scotland, where it ripens immense quantities Cottage, Sofievej-Hellerup. of seed, it flourishes rampantly in swampy ground The Kew Flagstaff. — It may interest you to and peaty moorland, where few choice things ' know that the Kew flagstaff was cut within a would survive. The cultivation of it on a com- mile of where this is written, and that a special mercial scale has been undertaken in that region port had to be cut in the ship in order to allow I only for their marvellous flowers.' Stone Fruits in Scotland.— The Rev. David k. Williamson wiites us as luUows from Kirkmajden .Manse. Wigtownshire, on April 3rd : " Owing doubtless chiefly to the mildness of the present spring and the heat of last summer, there is every appearance of an abundant blossom on the stone fruit t-'ees in South-Wcstem Scotland this year. The extremely beautiful and effective Primus Pissardii (the Persian Plum) has been for the last fortnight in luxuriant bloom in the centre of my garden. It has been closely followed by the Almond, whose pale pink flowers are just beginning to expand. Exceedingly promising, from a floral point of view, are such tine Plums as the Victoria, The Czar, Early Rivers' and Denniston's Superb Green Gage ; also such varieties of the Cherry as Black Eagle, May Duke, Early Rivers' and Morello, which would be worthy of cultivation if for the production of fibre of a superior quality. — Herbert Maxwell, Monreith. Acacia dealbata. — Reading the corre- spondence on this subject on page 155. issue March 28, I thought a few words on this beautiful tree from this part would be interesting to readers. We have here in the gardens three large trees ; the largest is about 4 feet in girth (6 feet from the ground), 35 feet high and 20 feet through. Two are somewhat sheltered from the north by two Eucalyptus trees, but the best speci- men is not sheltered so much. These trees flower about January, that is, following a dry summer. I have known all the flower- buds destroyed on the north side, with 6° of frost, while the south side of the tree has bloomed freely. I gathered some beautiful sprays this year. But, apart from its flowers, its silvery grey foliage is quite a feature in itself, being so finely divided and graceful ill appearance. — J. J. Gribble, Penlee, Penzance. The Fifty Best Alpines. — Havmg decided tij add a small extension to my rockery, I turned up The Garden for last year's March and April in order to consult the four lists of the fifty best alpines then given, respec- tively by Mr. S. Arnott, Mr. Reginald Farrer, Mr. William Little and Mr. G. F. Hyland. Each list gives the names and cultural directions of fifty alpines which in the author's opinion are those best suited for a small garden. On examiniiig the lists I find that they comprise 130 different plants — on the face of it a little bewildering ; but, on going more closely into the matter, I find that, curiously enough, the names of exactly fifty plants recur in two or more lists. As it occm-red to me that those of your readers who, like myself, value the opinion of others might wish to know the names of these fifty plants without being put to the trouble of finding them out for themselves, I enclose details. For cultural directions I must refer readers to the original lists given on pages 115, 151, 187 and 211 of The Garden for 1913. In all four lists appear Arenaria montana, Primifla marginata and Saxifraga burseriana. In three lists appear Androsace lanuginosa, Aubrietia Dr. Mules, Dianthus alpinus, G«ntiana acaulis, Hepatica angulosa, Hypericum reptans, Litho- spermum prostratum, O.xalis enneaphylla, Phlox subulata Nelsonii, Primula nivalis, Saxifraga lingulata lantoscana, S. Wallace!, Silene Schafta and Veronica rupestre. In two lists appear Anemone sylvestris, Anthemis .^izoon, Aquilegia RHODODENDRO.X l.NTRICATUM, A DWARF SPECIES FROM CHINA. THE FLOWERS AReJj.AVENDER BLUE. it to be got in. I believe a few feet had to be cut off the spar in order to get it into the ship. There is a movement on to send another and bigger spar to replace it. It will prob- ably be 200 feet long if it can be shipped. The necessary trees are here. I noticed a few weeks ago a note in The Garden about flowers visited by humming-birds. We get lots of them here in the summer, and they visit every kind of flower. I have a Lychnis chalcedonica just outside my dining-room window which they are very fond of, and have to stand on their heads to get at the middle flowers. They are also very fond of Carnations, Delphiniums, Columbines and Fuchsias. It is very pretty to see them hover motionless (except for their wings, which go too fast to see) in the air outside the window " sitting on nothing," as the children put it. — C. T. Hilton, Third Avenue, Port Alberni, British Colu^nbia. A New Rhododendron (or the Rock Garden (R. intricatum). — During the last ten to fifteen years our gardens have been enriched with many new species of Rhodo- dendron from China. Mr. E. H. Wilson's introductions alone exceed fifty species and varieties, many of which so far have not flowered iu this country. .\mong those which have bloomed, none has proved a greater acquisition to our gardens than R. intricatum, the subject of the illustra- tion on this page. For the rockery and alpine garden it is an ideal plant. Mr. Wilson, in his notes on China, describes R. intricatum as one of the moorland species, growing 2 feet to 3 feet in height. Being a comparatively slow-growing plant with us, the compact little bushes are still less than a foot in height, though nearly seven years old from cuttings. An ever- green species, the small, oval leaves are a quarter of an inch to a third of an inch long, densely clothed on both surfaces with small, . peltate scales, dark green above and a brownish white hue beneath. The dainty lavender blue flowers, each about half an inch across, are borne in clusters of three to five, and are verx- freely produced. At a little distance away, one of the plants suggests a bunch of Violets. The fact that there are several dwarf species of Rhododendron in China allied to R. intricatum has, unfortu- nately, led to some confusion in the names. The subject of this note, when first exhibited by Messrs. James Veitch at the meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society on April 2, 1907, received a first-class certificate as R. nigro-punctatum. It differs from that species, however, in having the flowers in clusters, those of R. nigro-punctatum being solitary. A third closely allied species, also with lavender blue flowers, named R. fastigiatum. has been recently introduced from China by Mr. G. Forrest. This is readily distinguished from R. intricatum, as it has prominent exserted anthers, those of R. intricatum being shorter than the corolla. The best means of propagation is by cuttings of partially mature shoots inserted in pots of sandy peat during late summer. For preference plunge the pots in a propagating-pit with a little bottom-heat. The plants illustrated are growing in a well-drained bed of sandy loam, peat and leaf-mould. The flowering season is March and early April. The accompanying photograph was taken on .^pril 4. — \. O. April i8, 1914] THE GARDEN. 19] Corydalis cheilanthitolia. — Tiiis pretty plant Las given me much pleasure ever since 1 had it some years ago Irom the garden of my greatly regretted friend, the late Dr. A. R. Wallace. The deep green, Fem-like Joliage is always a joy to see when there is but little well-developed plant life early in March, with the fresh interest of the bright yellow bloom that comes a week or two later. It comes up freely from self-sown seed, but this year, to my great pleasure, it has appeared on both faces of a high wall at a height of from 7 feet to ID feet above the ground. The wall is of the local sandstone, built less than thirty years ago. How the seed got up to that height on both sides of the wall, and how it can have lound lodgment and the little plants nutriment. Is a complete and delightful puzzle. The plants ill the wall are naturally smaller in foliage, and the proportion of flower to leaf greater, thaii where they . grow on the level nr on (ordinary rockwork. — G. Jekvll. Aster Disease. — I notice a very interesting article on this subject in The Garden of March 31 issue, but, while admitting that the course advised there may be a feasible one under certain circum- stances, 1 cannot say that gardeners will derive much benefit or consolation from it. I have carried out some experiments in connection with this tantalising and disastrous disease, and 1 find that a 2 per cent, to 3 per cent, solution of lormalin invariably secures immunity. The method tit using this liquid is very simple ; the soil of the border is ridged up, then sprayed liberally with the liquid, and the ridges are levelled down roufjhly so that the fumes may be conserved. The border, however, must be vacant for at least three weeks before plants are placed in the soil, and, i^ possible, this period should be increased for a week or two. We have used the same solution for the composts in the seed-pan, and for the boxes of soil into which the plants were pricked off. To prevent introduction of the disease with new seeds, we now steep all for fifteen minutes in a very weak solution of formalin, one teaspoonfuJ of the commercial liquid (40 per cent.) in one gallon of soft water, and no trouble is ever experienced. Experimenting with soils and manures, we also find that fresh organic matter or heavy dressings of nitrogenous manure encourage the development of the fungus, and my advice to readers is to plant .■\sters in soil which is " in good heart." i.e., which is rich, but has not been recently manured. — H. H. A. Bulbs for Spring Planting Outside. — While no one will gainsay Mr. .Arnott's dictum on page I.S9, issue March r4, that many bulbous- rooted subjects " require to be lifted in late autumn and stored until spring," few, I think, will share his views that the middle of March is a " good time " to plant the Belladonna Lilies, and, among others, the hardiest of the Alstr.oe- merias. By the recommended planting-time the first named, given the shelter of a greenhouse wall or south wall, have in the ordinary course made leaf growth from 6 inches to 12 inches above the ground, and the cultivator cannot keep such a bulb in the dry state for months with impunity. Moreover, as is distinctly pointed out at page 139, the Belladonna Lily is quite hardy in the positions indicated ; hence there would appear no legitimate reason for deferring the planting till so late a date. In the case of the Alstrcemerias, the growth would be very near the surface in March, while long-established patches might even be well through the soil ; hence one does not see the gain to be derived. On the contrary, assuming that dry bulbs or tubers of those named are employed, there will be an unmistakable loss of all that, is of benefit to the future plant — root-fibre and leaf production, for example, which, combined and developed in due season, are essential to bulb growth. With certain plants — the tuberous Anemones and Ranunculi — • little or no harm follows this deferred planting ; hence for the sake of expediency, and with a desire to extend a season of flowering more particularlv, it is worth pursuing. — E. H. Jenkins. Lime in the Garden. — In reply to ■ j. D.," page 143, column i, taking the last paragraph first, " J. D." would be far better advised to use soot in preference to lime for his lawns. Used now at the rate of 20 bushels (costing ros.) to 1,400 square yards, he would be agreeably sur- prised in a fortnight's time. This will destroy moss and many other weeds, besides imparting a beautiful colour to his lawns. With regard to the use of lime for Potatoes, after twelve years' experience I unhesitatingly say that it is one of the finest things that can be used for the pre- vention of scab. I mean the scab caused by insects, not black scab, which is of fungoid origin. I have used quicklime, covering both the shoot and Potato, without the slightest injury. As to quality, I quote the words of a well-known Scottish authority, who once said to me, " I wouldn't have believed that such Potatoes could be grown out of Scotland." — S. G. Smallridce, The Gardens, Battledene, Newbury. With regard to the use of lime for Potatoes, doubtlessly a good many growers are influenced by the fact that in the leaflet issued by the Board of Agriculture on the subject, the application of lime is said to be one of the causes of scab, i.e., the ordinary Potato scab, not black scab. This is an error. Scab is most likely to occur in soils in which the skins of the swelling Potatoes are injured or punctured by stones, grit or similar unyielding bodies in the soil. On laud dressed with night soil containing ashes, scab is almost sure to occur, and a belief widely prevalent, that land under Potatoes for the first time is likely to produce a scabby crop, arises from the fact that the thorough working necessary for Potato culture has previously not been necessary, and consequently the land has not such a fine tilth and the tubers are more likely to be abraded in the rough soil. The experiment on which the Board of Agriculture based their theory was carried out in the following manner ; Lime was taken on to the land previous to use, and allowed to lie exposed to heavy rains until not only was it slaked, but reduced to a pasty mass — to all intents, mortar. This was applied to part of the field, and the results were what might be expected. The lime set in lumps, and scab was more prevalent in that plot than in the unlimed portion. Freshly slaked lime, applied in spring in powdered form up to three tons per acre, will not be detrimental to any Potato crop, but, besides its chemical action on the manure, will prove a valuable fungicide as well. — F. M. S., East Yorks. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. April 21. — Royal Horticultural Society's Exhi- bition and National Ailricula and Primula Society's Combined Show at Vincent Square, Westminster. Lincolnshire Daffodil Show. April 23. — National Rose Society's Spring Show at the Royal Horticultural Society's Hall. Midland Daffodil Show at Birmingham (two days). THE ENEMIES OF THE NARCISSUS. NOT very long ago it was written of the Narcissus that it had " but one insect and one disease." Alas ! this dictum cannot be accepted at the present time, and it behoves those who grow this beautiful flower — and who does not ? — to at once realise the many dangers which beset the path of the cultivator. The Lesser Narcissus Fly. — The enemies of the Narcissus are many, and the cry, unfortu- nately, is " still they come." The latest to claim attention is the lesser Narcissus fly (Humerus lunulatus), which would appear to at least rival its greater brother, the Merodon equestris, in its capacity for destruction. The two flies are closely allied in entomological classification, and both eat out the interior of the bulb, resulting, in almost every case, in its complete destructiort. In one way the Eumerus lunulatus may be less to be dreaded than the larger Narcissus fly, for it does not appear to do what the latter is accredited with doing, namely, lay its eggs, variously stated at sixty or a hundred per fly, each in a separate bulb, but, so far as can be at present ascertained, very many, if, indeed, not all, of its eggs in the one bulb which it first attacks. But it makes up in thoroughness for what it may lack in other respects, as the following will show : In two bulbs of N. Bernardino just raised were found, respectively, thirty-two and eighty grubs, and in a single bulb of N. Glory 'of Noord- wijk over a liundred ; in fact, the bulbs so raised were simply sacks of grubs closely packed. What this would have meant had the grubs been allowed to pass into the pupal state, and issue therefrom later as flies to propagate their species, presents to the imagination a truly appalling picture. Of course, some bulbs raised contained but few larv£e ; but, up to the time of writing, some 2,000 have been destroyed, and the process of examination is not yet quite ended. With what serious quickness this pest may increase is shown by the fact that when, two seasons ago, I lifted and replanted my special Narcissus borders, I had none of it. Probably in that year (rgia) newly purchased bulbs brought with them the larviE, which employed their time in the following year for the results of 1914. Very little, if any- thing, has been known abcjut this fly, so far as its attacks on Narcissi are concerned, although it has appeared in places in the Iris. During the last year only does it appear to have come under observation as an enemy of the Narcissus, when it was detected in the South-West Counties . Doubtless by this time it has made its home in many Narcissus gardens elsewhere, and it behoves everyone interested in the matter to make imme- diate search, if only to achieve the satisfactory result of finding that the enemy does not exist. The fly is small, about the size of the common house-fly, so that attempts to catch it with a net would be useless. ' Like the Merodon equestris, the Eumerus limulatus appears to be a " sunshine fly," for in no case have I found Narcissi growing under the shade of trees, whether planted in grass or otherwise, attacked. The grub is somewhat similar to that of the Merodon equestris, but is rather darker in colour, and is smaller, not exceed- ing five-sixteenth of an inch. In gardens in which the grubs can now be found, there does not appear to be any alternative to the plan which I am now iy2 THE GARDEN. [April i8, 1914. pursuing, namely, to have every blank spaoe in a row carefully searched lor the remnants of the missing bulb, and also to have ever\' bulb showing distinctly unhealthy foliage lifted for examination. By this means the pest must be so seriously i;hecked that the control of another season may lead to its practical extermination. Foot's Cray. Charles E. Shea. {To bti conUnued.) PEAT ROCK GARDENS. In order to arrest, if possible, the storm of indig- nation that this innovation might raise among the orthodox rock gardeners, let me say at once that I do not for a moment suggest that peat should become the universal material for " rock- work " construction ; but for those — and they are very many — -who, like myself, are .within reach of a peat-producing district, it has several advantages. It is cheap to buy, easy to work, makes a splendid background for plants, keeps remarkably free from weeds, and, as I will relate, lias proved an excellent material for growing alpines in, and I think I may fairly claim from various reasons, had to be built up against a high wall (some lo feet high] I first banked up against the wall rubbish drawn from the garden — turves, rubble, &c.— and placed about eighteen inches of rough drainage stones on top. I then covered this pile with loose peat at least a feet deep, stamping it down firmly as it was shovelled up. This stamping is important ; it prevents undue " sinking." I then found I had a bank of peat up against the wall some 8 feet to 9 feet liigh and sloping fairly abruptly from the wall to the ground-level (the wall faces south-east). The north-east side of thi^ heap w-as then faced AN INTERESTING EXPERIMENT. SO many people have asked me to give them j ray experience that, at any rate, it is a very useful I with large clods of peat, making it into abrupt the results of my experiments witli what .ilternativf to soil ,ind stonos. I will first eive ' cliffs or terraces with occasional bays and pockets, they are pleased to term my "peatworks," that I now, after having given the experiment a fair trial, set down the history of experiments and their results for the benefit of those who, liki myself, are in a peat country or within reacii of it. When I first started culti- vating alpines, I proceeded in the orthodox mannet, and duh built rockwnriv and added moraines and other features ; but as my collection of plants increased, I found it dilficult to obtain suitable stone without expensive cartage, and I was driven to search for substitutes. My soul abhorred the idea of concrete slabs, and one day, as an e.xperiment, I inserted, in the place of a stone which 1 had removed, a slab of peat (cut from the top spit of a bog), with the happiest results. It retained the soil in its place, and the plants behind it took kindly to it, and eventually rooted into it. Next year, to the stone problem w.i'. added the soil problem. My gardener strongly objected to the constant removal 'of the best of his kitchen garden soil for the nourishment of my alpines, and I ventured upon a further e.xperi- ment— I made a " rockwork " entirely of peat, using large blocks — cut from the top spit ot the bog — instead of stones, and filling up the pockets, some with loose peat, others with peat and sand, peat and loam, and peat and leaf-nKjuld. My friends were critical and sceptical. I was told that even if the plants survived, which was more than doubtful, it was quite certain that my peatwork would subside before the winter rains and frosts had passed away. But I am glad to say that these gloomy prognostications A CATKIN-BEARING SPRAY Ol" ALNUS OREGONA, THE MOST BEAUTIFUL Ol' ALL THE ALDERS HARDY IX THIS COUNTRY. some idea of the torni and construction of the have not been fulfilled ; the plants have thriven, 1 original peatworU, and will then give a list of and, after three winters' rain (our rainfall is somC' where under 40 inches), the peatwork has sunk ver\ little, even less, I fancy, than some of the loam and some of the plants growing upon it. My rock garden has no pretensions to archi- tectural beauty. I started with a small piece, ■itone banks, and I am more than pleased with it. and as the necessity for further space arose I Encouraged by this success, I madf last year built all round it. If I could pull it all dov\-n and two similar, but larger, peatworks, and I hear that I start afresh, no doubt I should evolve some- some of my friends are now following my example, thing very different. The original peatwork, for using the clods of peat exactU- as if they were blocks of stone, and packing the spaces and irevices with loose peat. This cliff face extends to the end of the loose peat heap, and then projects to the east, about fifteen feet, like a long " nose." This nose is sheer on both sides, and is only some 3 feet thick at the top. The loose peat on the south-west side of this clifi was shovelled up against the cliff until it was level with the top of the cliff, and the loose lieap was then contained by the wall on one side and the clift' on another. The heap was finally gradually sloped down on the other sides to the ground- level by the insertion of retain- ing blocks 'of peat here and there, forming descending ter- races. The pockets and slopes were then levelled up with loose peat, or peat plus the other ingredients mentioned, and I proceeded to plant. Now as to the plants, my idea being only to thoroughly test peat as a soil substitute for alpines, there are plants of all sorts and sizes upon this peatwork, placed indiscriminately, with very little regard to eft'ect. It needed 'some courage, in view of my friends' prognostications, to entrust one's treasures to the experiment ; but I hardened my heart, and as far as was possible placed specimens of every- thing I had upon it. Let us walk round the peat- work, noting the plants as we go. We start at the north-east side. Here the peat cliffs are nearly ten feet high and fairly abrupt. High up, the heights are crowned with Maples and .\zaleas. .\ little lower on the face and from the chinks sprout Hepaticas, .Arenaria montana, Myosotis Wel- witschei, M, pyrenaica, M. pygma-a, and Mossy Saxifrages everywhere. Lower down, in pockets of peat, sand and leaf-mould, Saxifraga mutata, S. Lyallii, S. mertensiana. S. Fortunci, S, brunoni- ana, and some dwarf Gaultherias, Saxifraga aspera and Boykinia occidentale hang over the edge. Then Shortia galacifolia, Viola septen trionalis, Sanguinaria canadense, Jeflersonia April i8. 1914.] THE GARDEN. 193 diphylla, Viola glabella, Erythroniums, Ourisia roccinea, O. macrophylla, Orobus cyaneus. Hous- tonia serpyllitolia, Wahlenbergla saxicola, W. gracilis, Goodyera Menziesii, Campanula pnlla. C. Stansfieldii, Castillea acuminata, Polygalas, Raraondias and Haberleas : and all over the cliffs Primula capitata and P. cockburniana, and others, such as P. Unique and P. angustidens at the base. Coming round the east and south-east sides of the " nose," we see Oxalis adenophylla, O. enneaphylla, Myosotis rupicola, M. antarctica, Lithospermum prostratum, L. intermedium, L. Zollingieri, L. rosmarinifolium, L. Frcelichii, Pellaea densa, Campanula muralis, C. garganica, Potentilla ambigua and P. Tonguei. Then upon the south and south-west slopes and pockets Mossy Saxifrages at foot, Viola gracilis, V. bosniaca, Saxifraga integrifolia, S. erioblasta, S. reflexa. Iris, Campanula pulloides, QEnotheras, Nierembergia rivularis, N. frutescens, Azaleas, Aquilegias, Gentians, Anemone blanda, A. multifida, Vero- nicas, Phloxes, Convolvulus althasoides. Daphne Cneorum, Codonopsis ovata, Tulipa kaufman- niana, Arnebia echioides, Mertensias and many others. On the newer portions of the peatworks are others — too numerous to mention here — on trial, some of which it is as yet too early to speak of with any authority. But my experience so far leads me to believe that there are comparatively few plants that will not succeed in peat, and some — not necessarily " lime haters " — do better in it with me than in any other soil. I have hitherto always lost Nierembergia frutescens in loam, and it has thriven and passed through three winters in peat. Gentiana verna and Codonopsis ovata I have never had so fine in loam. I must confess that I have not as yet tried the Kabschia Saxifrages or such inveterate lieat-lovers as .Acantholimon, but practically everything else in my collection is now in peat on trial, and the only failures I can chronicle are Gentiana acaulis, which exists, but turns yellow, and Sph^eralcea munroana, which is a heat-lover and dies in the winter wherever I put it. I will try some of the Onosmas and jEthionemas in a pocket strongly diluted with sand just for the sake of the experiment, but we get hardly sufficient winter sun for them in the moraine, so I am not sanguine of success. But all alpines which are not inveterate drought-lovers I shall plant in peat with confidence. I confess that I am surprised at these results. I had slight hopes that difficult and delicate plants would survive. It may be that peat, though moist, does not clog the roots in winter and retains its moisture in the summer, and so assists the plants growing in it in the same manner as the stone chips do in a moraine. Anyhow, as far as this place is concerned, the experiment has proved more than satisfactory, and if any of your readers care to try a similar experiment, I should be happy to assist them in any way I coiJd. I note in M. Correvon's latest work that he is trying difficult plants in peat beds sunk in concrete tanks with artificial irriga- tion. In our damp climate such an arrange- ment is, of course, unnecessary. The list of plants I have given is far from, complete ; but I would, of course, give a complete list of those tried and on trial if it were so desired. Murray HoRfriBROOK. Knapton^ Abbey Leix, Irel-and. SOME UNCOMMON ALDERS THE Alders belong to the widely dis- tributed genus Alnus, comprising deciduous trees and shrubs, natives of Europe, America, North Africa and Asia. There are about twenty- five or twenty-six species, but probably less than twenty of these are in cultivation. In addition to these there are fully as many named varieties, principally of the two common species, Alnus glutinosa and A. incana. There are also two hybrids, A. elliptica (cordifolia x glutinosa) and A. Spathii. With one or two exceptions, notably A. maritima and A. nitida, the Alders flower early in the year, either in advance of the leaves or as they develop. The trees, laden with the pendent male catkins, brighten up the landscape, heralding the approach of warmer weather. These , with the female flowers in close proximity, are borne in clusters at the ends of the thin terminal and lateral shoots. Our common .Mder, A. glutinosa, is a familiar j and attractive tree, growing generally in wet 1 i the species. They are usually borne m pairs, occasionally singly, rarely in clusters of three together, greenish yellow in colour. No other Alder has quite the stiff, straight habit noticeable in A. firma. Two new Alnuses, A. cremastogync and A. lanata, are of recent introduction from China. Mr. E. H. Wilson describes the former as a tall, slender tree 80 feet to 100 feet in height. .\. lanata is distinguished by the woolly character of the young shoots and undersides of the leaves. Two other attractive Asiatic Alders are A. nitida, a native of the Western Temperate Himalayas, quite hardy in this country, and A. japonica, a Japanese species. Several varieties of the common Alder ha\-c distinctly ornamental leaves, the best being A. glutinosa imperialis (asplenifolia). In winter the reddish bark of the young twigs is distinctly pleasing in \. incisa ramulis coccineis, the tree being still more beautiful in January and February, when the male catkins mature. The best means of propagating the Alders is from seeds, which, as a rule, are freely produced on the exotic as well as the native species in this SPRAY Ob- A JAPANESE ALDER'(ALNUS FIRMA). THE CATKINS ARE THICK AND RIGID. and swampy places. Besides difieriiig consider- ably in foliage in the summer, the male catkins vary greatly in size and other respects on the difierent species. Several of the exotic species surpass our native ones in this respect ; in fact, A. oregona, from Western North America, a spray of which is illustrated, is one of, if not the, most beautiful of all the catkin-bearing trees cultivated in this country. At their best during the month of March, the male catkins are 5 inches to 6 inches long, in clusters of three to five, at the ends of the thin, twiggy growths of the previous season. Words cannot adequately describe their beautiful coloiu-ing and markings, a combination of red, orange, yellow and green of Oriental beauty. The weight of the large catkins at the ends of the twigs gives the branches a graceful, slightly pendent habit. In its native habitat A. oregona attains a height of about forty feet to fifty feet. A pleasing contrast to the American tree is A. firma, the second species illustrated, which is a native of Japan. The catkins are 2 inches to 2\ inches long, and thirker than in rnost of country. The varieties i\rv increased by graftmg, using small plants of A. glutinosa as a stock. For the lakeside and in the pleasure grounds and woodland where the soil is not too dry, the Alders are very attractive trees. Generally speaking, the trees are of moderate dimensions, and in consequence a tree or two may be fittingly planted in gardens of no great size. \. O. HARDY ASIATIC PRIMULAS, NEITHER CHINESE NOR HIMA- LAYAN. [Continued from page 180.) P. Julias (Kusnetzow). — Although only of recent introduction, seeing that it was discovered In iqoi, and first flowered in this country in igri, P. Juliffi is already highly favoured by all who have groivn it. It comes from the Caucasus, and is one of the moisture-loving Primulas ; it is quite an easy subject to cultivate. It belongs to the Vemalis section of Pax. although Profesfor 194 THE GARDEN. [April i8, 1014. Balfour does not think it should be so placed. It is a very hardv plant, with membranous, roimded-petioled leaves, and a plentiful supply of reddish flowers showing just above the leaves. Cultivation : Any soil and any position seem to suit it. but it does best in good rich soil in shade. P. Kaufmanniana (Kegel). — This has pubescent, petiolate rounded, lobed leaves and scapes bearing a number of rose violet flowers. It comes from Turkestan, and is amenable to the same treatment as P. cortusoides and other members of the section Cortusoides, to which it . belongs. P. longiflora (All.). — Although recorded from •Armenia and the Caucasus, P. longiflora- is really European in its area. It is a well-known plant in our gardens, and need not be further mentioned at present. Cultivation : The treatment recom- mended for P. farinosa will suit it. P. luteola (Ruprccht). — Few people are miserable, and the flowers are always destroyed by frost and rain. It loves shade and moisture. It comes from Layistan and was introduced about 1896. Professor Balfour places this plant in a separate section — that of Megaseaefolia — instead of following Pax and including it with the Carolinella. P. nivalis (Pallas). — Pallas' P. nivalis has nothing whatever to do mth the garden P. nivalis, which is correctly only P. hirsuta nivea, and is quite a distinct thing from the Asiatic P. nivalis. The latter belongs to the Nivalis section, and P. hirsuta to the Erythrodosa. P nivalis and its microforms are widely dispersed, and are found in one or more forms from the Caucasus, Turkestan, Afghanistan and the Himalayas to the Altai and Baikal districts. It is a good grower, with oblong- elliptic, crenate-denticulate leaves, and scapes carrying umbels of purple flowers on short pedicels and with greenish purple calyces. It has a prefer- ence for moist places. GARDEN CACTUS DAHLIAS. PRIMULA JUH/K, A KAKIC HARDV SPHCIES FROM THE CAUCASUS, WITH REDDISH BLUE IT.OWliRS sufficiently acquainted with the East Caucasus, Turkestan and Daghestan P. luteula, which has been cultivated since 1867, and is one of the best of our hardy Primulas. It has leaves of a lanceolate- elliptic shape, obtuse and denticulated, with the blade narrowing into a petiole, the scape rising well above the leaves, and bearing a manv-flowered umbel of pale yellow flowers. P. luteola is a native of damp places and loves a moist soil, although it is not too fastidious. Cultivation : Moist situation in half shade. Soil rich, with a good deal ot leat-mou'd P. megaseaefolia (Boiss.).— This is a very distinct plant, with large, broad, cartilaginous leaves and bearing its flowers in umbels, sometimes one above the other. These are called rose, but they are more properly magenta rose. The colour IS not specially acceptable to many, but, as this Primula flowers in the winter, it is an acquisition for a slightly heated greenhouse or a warm district. Tn the colder parts, if grown in the open, it looks P. saxatilis (Kom.). — For garden purposes there is little to distinguish P. saxatilis from P. cortusoides, a pi>int which has already been discussed under P. cortusoides. It has been suggested that P. saxatilis is only a microform of the last named, and this is possiblv correct. P. saxatilis, however, as has been previously mentioned, has longer pedicels. It is quite an easy plant to grow in moderately heavy SJil. and gives a good supply of its reddish flowers. P. Sibirica (Jacq.). — This has already been considered among the Chinese species, to whii'h reference may be made for further particulars regarding it. P. Sieboldii. — This also has been previously discussed when writing of the hardy Japanese Primulas, so that it is imnecessary to mention it further. Other sections of hardy Primulas will be dealt %vith in subsequent articles. Mnyelnviis, Duns. .John Macwatt THIS term is applied to those vaneties that are noted for their freedom in flowering and their stiff, erect stems, which carry the flowers well abo\'e the foliage and thus produce a decora- tive effect in the garden. The ex- hibition Cactus Dahlias cannot produce a garden display, for they have to be thinned out in growth and the flowers disbudded to produce huge blooms. Naturally, the stems are not strong enough to support these large flowers, which weigh them down and so destroy the effect in the garden. Some of the best exhibition sorts will, if allowed to develop more naturally, produce a fine effect. I just point this out to show that both exhibition and garden types cannot be gro^vn on the same lines, for one is to produce a mass of flowers for the garden, while the other is to produce large exhibition blooms. \t this season most amateurs are ] inking through their catalogues, endeavouring to make a selection of varieties for an autumn display. I am afraid catalogues do not help them very much in this respect, for as a rule they are abbreviated copies of the raisers' descriptions. Now. a raiser mostly describes his new varie- ties very fully and sees them in their best possible colours. After the first season, however, the descrip- tions get cut down, with the result that they are most difficult to follow. I am also very much afraid the lists copied down at flower shows are very misleading to those amateurs who want a garden display, for .-is a general rule one only sees the best exhibition sorts, and these are not adapted to the object in view. .\gain, I am quite sure the majority of Dahlias do not receive the cul- tural details they require, for it is quite a common sight to see a huge plant tied to a single stake like a bundle of faggots. Under this system the plants cannot be other than unsatisfactor\'. Now, to produce plants that will commence to flower in August , or even "arlier, it is essential that an early start should be made. The plants sliould be purchased in .\pril, when they are well rooted ; this enables the cultivator to repot them into 5-inch pots, thereby securing larger and stronger plants ; it also prevents them getting checked by being root-bound and starved, and at the same time we have a stronger plant to resist the attacks of slugs. If room is limited in a cool greenhouse, the plants can be relegated to a cold frame, where they grow steadily and sturdily ; but they must be protected from frost. Nothing is gained by planting too early, and the last week in May or the first week in June is quite soon enough, according to the district. There arc many people who are under the impression that the Dahlia requires a very rich soil ; this is not so. as such soils usually produce a mass of sofi, succulent growth which does not produce good flowers. Really, a soil that grows good vegetables will make an ideal Dahlia soil. A little decayed manure can be mixed with the soil in the station prior to planting ; this ^^•iII help In ronser\T the April i8, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 195 moisture in the soil, while a small handful of super- phosphate of lime scattered in the soil around the station is helpful in building up a strong plant. Most Dahlias will occupy a space 4 feet square during the season, but it should always be remem- bered that a Dahlia can be grown in a smaller space if desired ; it is only a question of thinning and pruning. Before planting, the central stake should be firmly driven in the soil and the plant put out with a spade, not a trowel ; the latter does not disturb the ground sufficiently. Later in the season each plant should have three or four smaller stakes driven round it, and the plant tied out to ?-ach stake ; this will admit light, air and .sun to every part of the olant, and thus secure that mature growth so essential to the production of good flowers. Now, as to thinning out the growths. In nearly every case, as far as the Cactus section is concerned, this thinning out is necessary. Part of the lateral growths should be removed from each main stem, leaving, however, sufficient to make a good, full plant. It requires very little practice to enable the i^rower to acquire this knowledge. Those who have been in the habit of relying on the single stake in years past should adopt the four- stake system, for I feel sure, if once adopted, they would never return to the old system. If large flowers are required, only one bud should be left to each growth ; otherwise, allow all the buds to develop ; but a partial disbudding of the flowers is desirable in most instances. As the Dahlia has to make its growth very rapidly, it will occur to every cultivator that, to obtain the necessary food supply, plenty of moisture is required ; so during dry spells the Dahlia should receive a good supply of water weekly, which is infinitely preferable to more frequent applications. Liquid manure may be given, but it is not nect:,3arv in the majority of cases. The Question of Varieties is the all-important one, and as far as actual colours are concerned the best varieties are quite a matter of taste ; but all should have the correct habit. The following have been selected as some of the best in a large collection : Amos Perry, rich scarlet, 3 feet ; Duchess of Sutherland, delicate blush pink, .^ feet ; Mrs. Douglas Flemming, prnre white, 3 J feet ; Blenda, rosy crimson. 3 feet ; Conquest, deep crim- son, 3 feet ; Mrs. Forrester Paton, crimson scarlet, 3 feet ; Mrs. Charles Foster, rosy pink, 3J feet ; Richard Bo.x, yellow, 3J feet ; Mary Purrier, crimson scarlet, 3J feet ; Record, yellow, shading to orange red, 4 feet ; Sweet Briar, pink, 4 feet ; Edith Carter, yellow, tipped rosy carmine ; Sports- man, bright scarlet, 4 feet ; Millicent, orange I'armine, 2^ feet ; Sherlock, orange. 3 feet ; Johannesburg, amber gold, 4 feet ; Lustre, crimson with darker centre ; Mauve Queen, mauve, 3 feet ; Nellie Riding, crimson, tipped white, 3 feet ; White Ensign, 3 feet ; Hon. Mrs. Greville, orange yellow, 4 feet ; Florrie Wells, rosy crimson. 3 feet ; and Vi^Td, intense scarlet, 3 feet. J. B. Riding. THE EARLY FLOWERING MAGNOLIAS. THE JAPANESE PLUM. (Prunus triflora.) Although not very widely known, the Japanese Plum, or Prunus triflora, to give it the correct botanical name, is one of the most glorious of all spring-flowering trees. The flowers, which open as the Almond trees are passing out of bloom, are white, and so freely are they produced that the loosely formed sprays are wreathed in bloom to i their very tips. The accompanying illustration gives one a very good idea of its manner of growth i while in and flowering ; moreover, it clearly emphasises coloured the value of planting early flowering trees with ' with considerable freedom, and many kinds light-coloured flowers against a background of ' rarely fail to produce a wealth of blossom when T HERE are few families of plants which possess so many admirable features as the genus Magnolia, for not only are the flowers of most of the species of an exceedingly attractive character, but the leaves are also handsome, many instances the fruits are hright- and showy. Moreover, they bloom deep green conifers or other dark-foliaged trees. There are many varieties of the Japanese Plum, and as commercial fruits they are appreciated, but the flowering-time comes round. The species may be divided into two distinct groups by reason of the time of flowering. The as flowering trees their exceptional beauty appears ' first group is made up of those kinds which pro- duce their flowers on leafless branches, and, the second, of the ones which bloom during the sum- mer or after the appearance of the leaves. Perhaps of the two groups the former is the more noticeable, for the flowers open during late March and April, before the majority of spring plants are in flower. They are really better fitted for the Southern than for the Northern Counties, although even in the North some people contrive to obtain good displays of bloom by placing their plants against warm walls. It must be borne in mind, however, that soil is an important factor towards the well-being of Magnolias. Warm and well-drained, yet naturally moist loam is the best kind to use, while a little peat or leaf-mould placed about the roots is appreciated. Root disturbance must be avoided as far as possible, for the plants are rather impatient of root injury, and often take some considerable time to re-establish after being transplanted. For this reason it is wise to carry out anv transplanting operations during very early autumn or late spring, while the ground is warm. Neither IS it advisable to do very much pruning. Pruning is not essential to success, and may well be left alone, unless a little shaping or the removal of a broken branch i>ecomes necessary. Magnolia conspicua, or th<' Yulan as it is sometimes called, is one of the most beautiful of the taller-growing kinds. A native of China, it is said to have been introduced about 1780. In the neigh- bourhood of London numerous fine examples are to be seen in the open ground, where thev form bushy-headed trees 20 feet to 40 feet high and as far through. Each year these trees are laden with pure white, fragrant flowers, each one about 4 inches long and 4 inches or 5 inches across. Sometimes the flowers are browned bv cold winds or frost ; therefore, when a position is being selected, it is wise to bear this in mind and choose a place where shelter from the north and east is available. Although less showv than the Yulan. M. Obovata, another Chinese species, demands attention. Forming a spreading bush S feet ni THE JAPANESE PLUM (PRUNUS TRIFLORA). THIS IS ONE MOST CHARMING OF SPRING-FLOWERING TREES. OF THE to have been overlooked. P. triflora must not be confused with P. triloba, a beautiful wall shrub, the flowers of which in many gardens are now (April 7) just opening ; neither must it be confused with the Japanese Cherry (Prunus Pseudo-cerasus), a glorious flowering Cherry, popular both in Japan and in this country, and rightly regarded as one of the most beautiful introductions we have had from that land of flowers. P. triflora is a native of China, and was probably imported into Japan. Observations of more than usual interest on the Japanese or Cape Plums appeared in The Garden for March 14, page 135, where the writer, Mr. E. A. Bun yard, referring to the adaptability of these fruits to the English climate, says that experi- ments so far lead tn nn hope of this possibility. 196 THE GARDEN. [April i8. 1914. ?o high, it bears showy purple blossoms : but it is as a subject for the hybridist that it is most highly appreciated. Crossed with the Yulan, a race of handsome hybrids has been raised, which bloom with the freedom of JVI. conspicua and ; grow into bushes 15 feet or 20 feet high. The flowers of the different kinds are stained more or less deeply with purple. Good ones are superba, soulangeana, Alexandrina and Norbertii. A fine example of M. soulangeana stands near an equally fine specimen of M. conspicua in the Azalea Garden at Kew. Even better examples of the last named are to be seen in the gardens at Syon House and Gunnersbury House. M. Campbellii is a Himalayan species, and one of the most magnificent of all kinds ; but. unfortunately, it can only be grown successfully in the mildest parts of the country. In its native country it attains the proportions of a large tree, and examples 30 feet to 40 feet high have been recorded in the British Isles. The flowers are often 9 inches or ro inches across and rich rose or crimson on the outer side, paler within. They are borne with regu- larity in the gardens at Abbotsbury Castle in Dorsetshire, in Sir E. Loder's garden at Leonardslee, and in several other places. M, Lennei is a handsome- flowered hybrid, its suggested parentage being M. conspicua and M. obovata ; but there appears to be good reason to suppose that the former species and M. Campbellii are the parents, for both in size, shape and colour the flowers more strongly resemble those of the Himalayan than of the Chinese species. Moreover, it blossoms several weeks later than the other hybrids previously mentioned. It is a magnificent sort, and should find a place in every Southern garden. M. rustica and its form flore rubra are presumably of similar parentage, the flowers being large and rich in colf>ur. M. stellata has been one of nil choicest spring - flowering shrubs for the past fifteen or t wenty years. A native of Japan, it is usually met with as a shapely bush 4 feet to 8 feet high, but plants are sometimes found exceeding 12 feet in height and 12 feet in diameter. The star-like, glistening white flowers are made up of numerous narrow petals, and they are very fragrant. A pink- flowered form is also known. Except in stature, the Japanese M. Kobus has much in common with M. stellata, for it is difficult to distinguish the leaves apart, and, except for fewer petals, the flowers are similar in shape and size. It, however, grows into a large tree. One of the finest new-comers is found in the Chinese and Japanese M. salicifolia. This is 1 free-growing plant which in its native country IS said to grow from 15 feet to 20 feet high. Its leaves are rather small arid narrow, and the white, fragrant flowers are somewhat after the style 'if those of M. stellata. but rather larger and •<>mp'^5ed <^t few^r petal* P. NEW AND RARE PLANTS. FIRST-CLASS CERTIFICATE, Clematis Armandii. — A novelty, and an acquisi- tion to boot, and without doubt the finest addition to the genus for many a day. The species has frequently been exhibited previously, but never in the fine condition as on the present occasion. It is hardy, more or less evergreen, early to flower, with axillary clusters of flowers of the purest white. It is a Chinese species, whose merits have been fairly tested prior to being exhibited. From the Hon. Vicary Gibbs, Elstree, Herts. AWARDS OF MERIT. Rhododendron fastigiatum. — Miniature bushes were exhibited of this recent novelty from China. .MAGNOLIA SALICIFOLIA. A NEW SPECIES FROM CHINA A NOW FLOWERING AT KEW, whence seeds \sere sent by Mr. E. H. Wilson. The plants, of 6 inches or so high, were just loaded with violet blue trusses of flowers, which have brownish anthers. The plants shown were from three to five years old from the sowing of the seed. A large bush of it would be most effective in the rock garden. Exhibited by Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, Kent. Rose Constance. — A high-class novelty belong- ing to the penietiana set, and raised by M. J. Pemet-Ducher. The flower-buds are of exceptional length, rich yellow in colour, the outer petals just touched with red. The foliage is handsome and shining, the wood heavily beset with spines. From Messrs. Bcckwith and Sons, Hoddesdon. Auricula Gordon Douglas. — A very handsom" fancv ! secure the best results another year. When the plants have finished their growth, gradually give more air and allow them to rest in a quiet, cool structure. Clivias. — Plants which have finished flowering should not be allowed to suffer from the want of water. Give frequent applications of liquid manure throughout the summer, and do not pot the plants before it is necessary. As the season advances, the manure may be discontinued and the plants grown in a cool structure. The Flower Garden. Pansies and Violas. — I'lauts whicli were propagated from cuttings in the autumn should now be planted in their flowering quarters. Both the Pansy and Viola thrive best in deep, rich soil .ind a somewhat shaded position where they are not e.xposed to the full sunshine during the liottest part ot the day. Lobelia compacta. — Seedlings sh(nild be pricked into boxr-, or frames as soon as large enough to handle, for if once allowed to become drawn they will be of very little value. When they have become established and are groxving freely, the tops may be clipped in order to induce side growths. Mignonette. — Frequent sowings should be made during the next two monlhs to ensure a continual supply of flowers throughout the summer and autumn. Keep a sharp look-out for slugs, which are very fond of the young seedlings, and dust the plants with soot in the early morning while the leaves arc damp. The Lawn. — Grass is growing rapidly now, and should be mown frequently, as nothing is gained bv allowing too long an interval in this matter. 'Nothing is saved in labour, and the lawn itself will sufft r in consequence. Trim the verges frequently, as neglect in this matter tends to give the garden an untidy appearance. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Peach and Nectarine Trees on walls will now require careful attention. The disbudding of these is an important matter, and should be accomplished a little at a time, commencing at the top of the tree and rubbing off the shoots at the back of the branches, as well as those directly in front, then others in unsuitable positions ; but avoid severe thinning of the shoots at one time, for it is safer practice to go over the trees at intervals of a few days until the work is com- pleted, and it is only by careful study of the requirements of each tree that the work can be successfully accomplished. Insect Pests. — Aphides are a most troublesome pest, and generally make their appearance as the trees are passing out of flower, when it is difficult lo adopt measures strong enough for their destruc- tion without injuring the young growth ; but as soon as these insects are noticed, no time should be lost in syrmging the affected points with some approved insecticide, and the trees should be thoroughly syringed with clear soft water early in the afternoon when the outside temperature is fa\ourable. The Kitchen Garden. Herbs. — The present is a good time to make new plantations of Mint. If single cuttings are planted in rows a fo<5t apart and the same distance between the plants in the row. they will soon make good, strong plants, and will quite cover the ground before the end of the season. Tarragon may be treated in the same way, but should be allowed double the space between the rows. Thyme. — Voung seedlings should be planted in light, rich soil and allowed a foot between the plants each way. Marjoram should now be sown in gentle heat. Prick off the seedlings as soon as large enough to handle, and grow in a slightly heated pit. When large enough, they should be planted on a warm border. Lift and pot in September for winter use. Basil may also be sowti now in heat and the seedlings transplanted as soon as large enough. .-V warm south border should be selected for sum- mer supplies, and a sowing made in August for winter use. Royal Gardens, Windsor. .JOHs- Duxx. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Brassicas. — When the seedlings are large enough to handle, they should be pricked into a prepared bed about four inches apart. In making up this bed it will be %yise to put up a temporary shelter with some rough boards, so that the young plants can be protected for a time. A few Spruce branches or a garden net could be used for this purpose. One might think this a little too much work to devote to such common things as Cabbage or Cauliflower. At the same time, they will well repay for the extra labour. Vegetable Marrows. — Too often these arc grown far too large, which renders them so coarse and difficult to cook. Fortunately, there are small \'arieties now on the market which come early to maturity, and if possible have a more delicious flavour than some of the older sorts. One has only to try a dish of Sutton's Table Dainty to realise how excellent Marrows are, after all. Seed may he sown now and treated almost as one would frame Cucumbers. They will give a good return from a small outlay. Growing Crops. — These will be greatly assisted with an occasional application of nitrate of soda sown between the Tuvis. There is no hard-and- fast rule as to the quantity to apply, but an open handful to every 3 yards will be a good dressing. .\fterwards stir up the soil with the Dutch hoe. The Flower Garden. Half-Hardy Annuals. — Those that were sown last month will be almost jeady to prick out, and at this stage it is imperative that they should be placed near the glass, whether in greenhouse or frame. It is also important that they should not he allowed to become dry. When it is necessary to water the seed-pans, it is best done by standing them in a tub containing a few inches of tepid water. Prick out the seedlings in most cases as soon as they can be handled, and in preparing soil for this purpose it should t>e of a nature that roots can cling to, so that when moved to their flowering quarters they do not suffer much check. | Spraying Roses. — As a preventive of mildew on Roses, one should spray them immediately after they have been pruned, and all the dead leaves and rubbish cleared away. There is no doubt that much could be done to check this fungus by timely spraying. For many years 1 have used Bentley's Mildew Destroyer, which I consider an excellent fungicide. WTiere, however, this is found to be ineffectual, one might ir)- sulphide of potassium. An ounce dissolved in soft water would be strong enough. Apply this with a fine spray 10 the aft'ected plants in the evening, going over them the following evening and syringing with clear water. Sweet Peas. — Plants that have been grown in pots and boxes may now be transferred to their flowering quarters, prld of the soil, the house should be shaded just abow tlum, when they will very soon recover from the shift. Vine eyes that were rooted in tur\-es may either be planted now or left until well on in May. Main- growers prefer doing this as late as June. Figs. — On early trees the fruit will now be swelling, and where the\- are confined in pot- or built receptacles they may be given liberal supplies of liquid manure. Constant attention must be paid to stopping all shoots about tin- fifth leaf to avoid overcrowding and also to assist in swelling the fruit. John Highgate, (Head-gardener to the .Marquis of Linlithgow.) Hopeloun Gardens, Smith Queei{sferiy, !\.B April i8, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 1^ DAFFODIL NOTES. Past History.' — Owing to Easter and its atten- dant alteration of the ways of The Garden, I cannot deal with the Royal Horticultural Society's Show on April 7 as I otherwise would have done, so I am taking the opportunity to dip into the past. Yes, " to dip into tlie past," in this busy, bustling Daffodil time, when everyone, from the Editor downwards, is athirst for something ■' practical," or what they call practical, for this is a word which, like some of those most judiciously worded prayers in the Book of Common Prayer, may mean one thing to one person and another to another. I call the past practical for the very simple reason that a visitor's enjoyment is always greatly increased when the cicerone is able to talk about the plants he is showing. Go round anyone's garden but your own, alone— how dull ! Go round with an owner who can tell you little more than you may read for yourself on the labels — how annoying ! how irritating ! On the other hand, go with the man full of historical and " culti- vational " information, who can tell you of the coming of the Dalilia or the first appearance of the Fuchsia, and talk pleasantly and banteringly of the spelling of the one and the pronunciation of the other — how different then is the tour nf that garden ! We all know it. The Daffodil gives us plenty to talk about. " Improvement is a getting away from Nature," says the host. " Yes," says the visitor, " it is. But yon——" .-Vnd so on, and so on. There you have done it, and interesting and heated arguments flow. It may happen, however, that we stop before a Challenger or a Crojsus. Without being purse- proud — for we need not mention the fifty guineas that those two bulbs cost us — we may talk of prices : how " Peter Barr " actually found purchasers at fifty pounds a bulb ; how Emperor, probably the finest of all Daffodils, never seems to have \ been valued at that number of pence ; how the raiser's family sold the stock of Horsfieldii for a shilling apiece. There is much of interest to be said of prices. No less in bulbs than in cut flowers in the market. My friend, Mr. William Poupart, doubtless often looks back on the halcyon days of the past, to the seventies when he and others — dear old James Walker for one — began to develop this important industry. The fear and trembling with which he bought omatus and refused Horsfieldii were only possible to a pioneer. Then other firms joined in, for prices were high and alluring. Some say now that the gamei is up and that present prices are almost unremunerative. But from what we have been " forced to hear," it is not played out yet. A Napoleon comes along in the person of Walter T. Ware, who, first of all, has the sagacity to know a good thing when he sees it ; who, un- cerise and cream ; Robinella, deep claret red ; and Apogfee, very deep golden yellow. The size of the flowers is fair, and in most instances they are of good shape. We congratulate Mr. van Tubergen on his success with these charming and fragrant flowers. SWEET PEA NOTES. The word itself has a derivation which so far has baffled the understandings of the learned — . secondly, knows how to get over a poor "affodil," perhaps, but that "big, big D" (" My sophisticated " Dutchman; who, thirdly, loiows Garden in Spring," page 130). Why that ? Here : liow to wait ; and who, fourthly and lastly, knows is a fine colony in some damp part of the rockwork ' liow to put flowers on the market and bulbs into A of the curiously shaped cyclamineus. It is an opportunity for a digression on the old flower traders' catalogues, with, I feel certain, not a little monetary satisfaction. If you have it in picture-books of a long-distant past. Some figured , your garden, you might point to Queen of the this quaintness. Not many tens of years ago, everyone thought it as much an effort of the imagination as the bine Daffodil in Miss Silberrad's interesting novel of Dutch life in the bulb districts, "The Good Comrade." There it is in Pierre Vallet's " Le Jardin du Roi trte Chrestien Loys XIII." (1623), under the title Narcissus Hyspanicus. But it became so entirely lost sight of in gardens and in its wild habitat that no less an authority than Dean Herbert called it '* an impossible plant." Then, somewhere about 1886, it was rediscovered by Mr. A. W. Tait of Oporto, to the amazement of all. .\nother fruitful source of conversation might well be an ancient catalogue and the changes which have come about in its varieties during- the short life of the plant as a popular garden flower. I have an early list of Messrs. Barr and Sons, dated 1887, before me now, also one of the same firm's of 1912. The twenty-five years' interval has revolutionised both of them-^the flowers and us. We have been educated, I suppose I might say, and the flimsy perianths and the small starry forms of the earlier hybrids, which astonished and pleased the first Daffodillers, as, for example, Mary, Robin Hood, Acis, John Stevenson, John Bull, Shirley Hibberd, King Umberto and numbers of others, are for the moderns of to-day mere words — catalogue names suggesting nothing. And they have been improved, we say and think. White Lady, Noble, Evangeline, Lucifer, Black- well, Whitewell, Olympia and Lady Margaret Boscawen are now upon the scene. We point them out with gusto and pride, and if we want to digress and turn our little plot into a sort of ancient Athenian lecture hall, a talk about " What is improvement " will make it wondrous like. West as a supreme example of his skill in the masterly handling of his forces. Possibly, however, we are seedling raisers, and at last we are in front of some of our very own. My eye ! How the most silent tongue can wag them ! Only if the friend who accompanies us is not a hybridist himself, let us be content with generalities or broad outlines, for he will not want to know the pedigree of this and that right away from Backliouse and Leeds. Those details will not interest him. Thus we might ramble on and on, each host naturally talking of those points and parts of Daffodil history or cultivation which " find " him or appeal to him most. So is a visitor's pleasure increased and his interest tickled, and who knows but what in the end he may be caught. Let us hope so. Surely, these are some of the things to be aimed at in life — a pleasant smile, an insinuating way, a good bedside manner, an unaffected politeness, some Daffodil knowledge and the facility of imparting it as one takes a friend round one's garden. Joseph Jacob. THE EDITOR'S TABLE. New Freesias from Holland. — It is with con- siderable pleasure that we have received from Mr. C. G. van Tubergen, jun., Zwanenburg, Haarlem, some of his charming new Freesias. The colour shades of these are really wonderful, and in some unlike anything we have ever seen before. For instance, a variety named La Charmante is a glorious mixture of rose, golden yellow and apricot, that must be seen to be fully appreciated. Amethyst is a beautiful shade of lavender blue ; Canary, deep golden yellow ; Monette, rosy these notes are being penned, the glorious warm rays of the sun, the hum of insects and the songs ol birds kindle anew the hope that at last spring has arrived. But what a March ! Could the weather have been worse ? Rain, rain, and rain again, and the hearts of Sweet Pea growers dropped almost to the point of despair as they beheld their soil water- logged ; and even if the good weatlier continues, many days must pass before the land in this district is workable. As a strong advocate of autumn trenching, one derives a glimmer of satisfaction from the recent bad weather, as it has conclusively proved the advisability of getting the preparation of the soil done as early as poesible. The plants have sadly suffered through lack of sun, and those growers who have plants under glass growing for exhibition complain of soft, attenuated growths. The ordinary gardener whose plants are thus suffering may help them by giving them plenty of air, and at the same time keeping the fires going ; but with a few days' sun and warmth I do not think one need worry. M\ will yet be well. What does concern many is the fact that their seedlings are suffering in the boxes or pots and the ground unfit for planting out. Hard as it may seem, my advice is to wait until the soil is in a fit condition and workable. The check the plants are sustaining now can be minimised by giving them plenty of air and an occasional watering of very weak soot-water ; but you risk total failure if you plant in wet, sticky soil, while, to attempt to work a heavy soil when wet. borders on madness, and its utility is nil. Method of Planting Out. — The question of what constitutes a check is a very controversial one, and often too much stress is laid upon matters of very little moment. The ideal way of raising plants is singly in a pot, and thence to transfer them to their growing quarters by the following method : The day previous to the planting out well water the plants. This enables the entire ball of soil to be easily knocked from the pot, when the hole which has been made by a trowel is ready to receive it. Place the entire ball with the plant and twigs (these supports are essential) carefully in the hole prepared, and pr.ss the soil well round it. Do not be afraid of making the soil fairly solid, for Sweet Peas like a firm soil to dwell in. The foregoing process applies to all plants grown in pots. Many growers, however, raise seedlings in bo.xes, and each must be carefully separated from the other without undue injury to the roots. " But what a check ! " says one, and this is the controversial point. If the following plan be adopted, there is little or no check : I have already emphasised the fact that no planting must be done unless the ground is in a good working condition, and this is easily tested. Take up a handful of soil and squeeze it in the palm of the hand. If it becomes a sticky, wet mass, then it is not in a fit condition for planting ; but if it easily falls away and does not wet the hands, when the soil is ripe for receiving the plants. 200 THE GARDEN. [April i8, I914. If the plants are to be grown in rows, then make a deep drill with a spade and arrange the plants about a foot apart along the line, cover with soil and water in ; this enables the roots to be entirely rovered with soil, and leaves no spaces, so to speak. Then cover with more soil and press firmly, putting twigs for supports. Do not use a dibber, but always plant with a trowel. Single plants thus treated seldom show any signs of having received a check, and I am of the opinion that this is by far the easiest and most successful treatment for Sweet Peas for decorative purposes. Sweet Peas in Tubs.— Many an amateur laments lack of space, but a paved backyard can be converted into a " Sweet Pea garden " for a very small outlay. Get a few lard tubs and, having bored holes in the bottom for a drainage outlet, fill with good soil. Having planted the seedlings, the Simplicitas Circle makes a fine finish, and Sweet Peas thus gro^vn and kept well watered and free from seed-pods will yield a wealth of blossom for many weeks. It will be necessar)- to give liquid manure fairly frequently when the plants are in full flower, and an almost daily watering with soot-water will keep the foliage in good condition. Sweet Peas in tubs are most effective and quite easily managed. This method of culture should become more popular, as the tubs can be placed in any selected spot and add heautv where all else fails. S. M. Crow. EDITORIAL NOTICES. Ever;/ ({''juutinoif oj hodicuitini- is n-piemiUfd in I'Hi: Garden, 'ind the Editor inriti's iradfrs to ^end in questions relt/fijiif til matters upon ii-hich thri/ /ruh expert advice. The Editor welcomes photoijraphx. articles and 7iotes, hat he will not be responsible for their safe return. All reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where sta7npii are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted contributions. As regards photographs, if payment be dexired. the Editor asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated. It must be distinctly nnde.rstood that only the actual photo- graplier or owner of the copyright ivill be treated with. The Editor ivill not be responsible for the return of artistic or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and the receipt of a proof must not he taken as evidence that an article is accepted. Puhlicaiion in Thk Garden will alone be recofinised as acceptance . Offices: :iO, Tavistock street. Covent Garden, ir.f. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. half-a-dozen years before the flowering stage Is rpached. If in August next you will write us again, we will give you the necessary instructions for planting at a seasonable time. NEGLECTED GARDEN SOIL (Sipho).—U, as you say, " the izarden haa not been manured or attended to for many years," nothing short of a thorough trenching and manuring are likely to be of the least ser\ice. In such circumstances no manure is equal to well-decayed stable manure, which may be dug in liberally at 9 inches to 12 inches deep. You may further improve the fertility of the soil by forking in lime at the rate of one bu!*he] to eacli rod of ground. That miiilit be done svibsequent to the trenching and manu-ing. .Artificial niauures are no fitting substitutes for those of an organic nature in such circumstances They aro serviceable, rather, as adjuncts later on. We could only say whetiier the soil required lightening after seeing it or a sample of it. If heavy, as you say, lime vAl\ assist porosity, and double tl>c above "quantity might be given for that purpose. Ashes, i.e., coal-ashes, while assisting drainage, not in- frequently impoverish the soil, while those from rubbish fires are rich in potash and other salts. It will be best to prune the newly planted Roses rather hard back this year, and in doing so remove all weakly shoots at ground- ievel. Some of the stronger shoots may flower this year if left, though it is usually at the expense of a better display later on. If the stronger shoots are well ripened, some of these may be retained, prunintf them back about eighteen inclies. The remainder sliould be pnined to within six inches of the ground, to encourage good rods for flowering next year. .\s you confess to " knowing so very little about gardening," we may remind you tliat we are always willing to render what a^isiptance i^ m our power. THE GREENHOUSE. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor intends to make The Garden helpful to ail readers who desire assist- ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the EDITOR of The Garden, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. Wfien inore than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters on business should be sent to the Publisher. FLOWER GARDEN. CHRISTMAS ROSES {TFror/ww).— The Giant Cluistraas Rose (Helleborus niger maximus) is the largest-flowered of its race ; the blooms are white, ruddy on the outside, and appear in November. H. juverna has smaller and much wniter flowers, which do not open before mid- January. The plant, too, is of dwarfer growth. There are other forms, as major " scoticus " and Mme. Foiircade.. the whole constituting a sot valuable for successional flowering. The better way would be to obtain plants in Septemt>er next ; it is now too late to plant them. Seeds are very slow to vegetate, and often take a couple of years bt^fore the plants appear, Aft«r that, you may havi' to wait TREES AND SHRUBS. ALMONDS NOT FLOWERING {Dt. W. H.).— It is probable that your Almond trees have grown too rigorously and too late in the season to allow of the wood becoming sufficiently ripened to produce flowers. If your soil is naturally deficient in lime, the addition of lime rubble to the soil will do good ; but as your trees I are growing freely, there is no reason for applying manure. Vou might open the ground here and there about the roots. and cut through a few of the principal roots. Thie \vili cause sturdier, and consequently better ripened, wood . INFORMATION ABOUT THOMASIA SOLANACEA {Life-long Reader).- Your surmise that the name of the specimen enclosed is Thomasia solanacea is quite correct. It is a native of Australia, whence it was introduced in 1803. It has been grown here ever since, but outside of a botanic garden it is rarely met with. The reason of this is that the flowers are not showy enough for general decorative purposes, the standard by which nowaday:? everything is Judged. In Cornwall, and in the milder parts of Ireland, this Thomasia will, no doubt, succeed out of doors. Generally speaking, however, it must be regarded as a greenhou>;e plant. Xearly fifty years ago there were two or three good specimens in the Temperate House at Kew, and no doubt it is still represented there. Cuttings of the half-ripened shoots put into sandy soil in a propagating-case with a gentle heat ^vill root without difficulty. It succeeds well in a mixture of loam, peat- and sand. INCREASING ECHEVERIA METALLICA {Quaker).— You seem to be particularly uofortunat-e in your attempts to propagate Echeverla metallica. It should winter well in the temperature stated by you — 45" to 50° — during which time the roots must be kept moderately dry, but not parched up. It is strange that the leaves die after they are rooted without forming a plant at the base. Perhaps you do not strip off the leaves to their full extent. They are best dibbled into sandy soil and placed on a light shelf in the greenhouse or similar position. This is a very suitable time of the year to put in leaf cuttings. Perhaps you did yours in the autumn or winter season. We cannot understand the reason why the old stools do not tlirow out shoots when the tops are removed. They should be kept almost dry and in a light, sunny spot. There yet remains another mode of increase, and that is, if you can grow on a strong specimen so that it flowers. If it is kept in a sunny Greenhouse and the flowers are fertilised with their own pollen, seeds will be produced, and, from these, young plants can be raised in quantity. Sempervi\Tim tabul»- forme can be increased by leaves, but not very readily. When old plants are tall enough they may have' the tops taken off, and the lower part of the stem will in time break out. Besides this, suckers are sometimes available, and seedlings may also be raised. TREATMENT OF IMANTOPHYLLUM MINIATUM {Olivia). — We cannot find any disease affecting the leaf of the Imantopbyllum sent, for the old leaves often go off in the spring just as the flowers and new growth arc pushed up. There must, however, be something lacking in the condition of the plants that induced them to flower in an erratic manner last summer. This would fxilly account for the comparative failure now. We are inclined to think that the roots of the plant are not in a healthy state, and this could be easily determined by turning the plants out of their pots. If om" surmise is correct, the main thing is to get the plants well furnished with healthy roots. This may be accomplished by shaking off the old soil and cutting away all unhealthy portions. It is quite possible that the plants may, with advantage, be put into smaller pots. In any case, they must be repotted in a compost made up of loam, lightened by a little peat or leaf-mould and a liberal sprinkling of silver sand. Care must be taken that the pots are well drained with broken crocks. After this, the plants must be carefully watered, especially till the roots take possession of the new soil. Established plants need to be kept moderately moist at all seasons. Of course, more water is required during the summer than in the winter; in fact, at this last-named season, they may be allowed to get fairly dry. Should the roots of your plants prove on examination to bo quite satisfactory, we advise you to give them a top-dressing of some suitable compost, and I during the summer an occasional stimulant The plants may be stood outside throughout the summer, but very heavy rains are not henefleial to them. MISCELLANEOUS. SMALL WHITE WORMS (Kom«n).— The little worms sent are known as white worms. They are somewhat similar in structure to the earthworms, but much smaller, and are often destructive to the roots of plants. They may be destroyed by any of the worm-killers, or by gi^ing the la%vn a soaking with lime-water. BULBS FAILING {Dreamer). — Many bulbous plant- sutl'ered greatly last seaaun owing to the dry weather thai (iccurred during the months of May to July, and as u consequence they have given very poor results this season. Only one of the bulbs you sent showed damag"- by any external agent — the Narcissus, and that wa> attacked by bulb mites. The others had either failed tu produce roots or root development had l)een very feeble all through. STARTING A MARKET GARDEN {S. £.).— A great deal depends on the situation — nearness to a railway station or market — warmth of soil, aspect, and labour available in growing various crops of fruit, vegetables or flowers. Our advice is to ascertain flrst what is required in the neighbourhood, the means of disposal at various times of the year, and then make your plans accordingly. Until you have satisfied yourself that there is a reasonable prospect of success, we do not adWse you to invest ciipital. T'he salient point, though, in market gardeninu is to produce crops, of whatever kind they are, as early as possible. For instance, salads are much in demand early in the spring; so are new Potatoes, early Cabbaue, Mushrooms or Green Peas. The same remark applies to Strawberries, Apples, Oirrants or Grapes ; flowers, too, on tb(! same basis. NAMES OF PLANTS.— Beayer.— The flower is Vel- theiinia viridifloia; the leaf is Monsteradeliciosa. W. G. ifallace. — Narcissus cernuus plenus. A. Cole. — Ophry^ aranifera ; Eriobotrya japonica (Loquit) ; Mvoporum laetum. W. E. P.^1. Abutilon Savitzii : 2. Spirsea japonica ; 3. Symphorie^rpus orbiculatus ; 4, Seoio- pendriimi vulgare margiuato-cristatuni. SOCI ETI ES. DEVON DAFFODIL AND SPRING FLOWER SOCIETY. THK society opened its spring show in the Guildhall, Plymouth, on April 2. It was a successful exhibition, the competition being very keen and the flowering shrubs quite as good as they were at Truro. The prize-list included : Collection of twenty-four varieties of Daffodils, flrst. Miss Clarice Vivian ; group of Daffodil seedlings not yet in commerce, first, Mr. H. G. Hawker ; six varieties yellow trumpet, flrst, Miss Clarice Vivian ; six varieties bicolor trumpet, first. Miss Clarice Vivian : collection of nine varieties spring fiowcrs, first, Mrs. Froude — Iris tingitana in this stand was very fine and received cultural commendation ; and six varieties spring flowers, first . Mrs. D. M. Y'onge. Flowering Shrubs. — Group of Rhododendrons, first, tbe Earl of Morley ; fifteen varieties of hard-wooded tiow^ering shrubs and climbers, first, Mr. H. W. tlrigg. who showed Osmantlms Delavayi (first-class certificate), Prunus spinosa fiore pleno, Ceanothus rigidus, Forsythia suspensa. Citrus trifoliata, Prostanthera rotundifolia, Pliillyrea decora. Erica australis, Hlicium religiosum, Grevillea sulphurea. Prunus persica fiore pleno. Cerasus sinensis pendula, Akebia lobata. Clematis baleariea, and ^Magnolia soulaugeana. The competition in tiiis class was so close that only four points divided the first, second and third stands. Six varieties hard-wooded plants, flr.st, Jlr. T. B. liolitho. with Gre\illea Preissi (award of merit). Clematis indivlsa lobata, Dendromecon rigidum, Eriostemon myoporoides. Acacia dilfusa, and Grevillea ornithopoda. "Nurserymen's exhibits added materially to the display. The Devon Rosery, Torquay, showed a splendid collection of new Roses, as well as fine plants of such ramblers as Dorothy Perkins, White Dorothy, Excelsa, Aim6e Vibert, Edmond Proust, Blush Rambler and Leuchstem. They also showed Amaryllis, very fine, the new Azalea Joseph Vereane. .Vcacia cordata, A. armata, Lopezia miniata and new Lilacs. Messrs. R. Veitch and Son, lixeter, showed Camellia mag nolise flora, Cineraria Matador. Grevillea longitolia, Eriostemon linearifolium, K. buxi- follum, K. neriifolium, E. srabra, Prostanthera rotundi- folia, Chorizema Lowii, Eutaxia myrtifolia. Magnolia soulaugeana, M. s. nigra, M. stellata. M. conspicua, and M. Leun6i. AJessrs. John Piper and Sons staged >' iola t^ilden Wave, V. gracilis, V. Piper's Black, V. Dream. Veronica diosmfefolia, Lithospermum Heavenly Blue, and a large collection of Primulas. Mr. J. C. Martin. Truro, showed an interesting selection of Daffodils, among which were Great Dane, Searchlight, Artificer, Iron Duke and Rockery Gem. Messrs. Barr and Sons gave a fine display of Dalfodils, among these being Orangeman. Blazlug Star, Furnace, Bloodstone, Argent, Venus, (jwendalln. Battleaxe, and Fairy Queen, a^fey- GARDEN. No. 2214— Vol. LXXVIII. April 25, 1914. NOTES OF THE WEEK. The Double-Flowered Sloe. — It is difficult to understand why this charming spring-flowering shrub is so little known. Just now its dark- coloured branches are wreathed with snow white ' double blossoms, which make a very pretty feature in the landscape. It forms a large shrub or small spreading tree, and is quite as hardy as the Sloe of our hedgerows. Its botanical name is Prunus spinosa flore pleno. Meconopsis Wallichii. — This lovely Poppy, with its attractive foliage, and which produces flowers of the loveliest pale blue imaginable, is somewhat difficult to manage. Sometimes it will stand out of doors during severe weather, vvhUe at other times it seems to go off rather mysteriously. In the North the plants had better be kept in a cold frame during the winter, and those that have to be so treated may be planted out now. Those who experience diffi- culty in getting the plants to ripen the seed sufficiently early would do well to pot on one or two plants and flower them in a cool greenhouse. The same remarks apply to the beautiful M. integri- fnlia. A Beautiful Prunus (P. acida dumosa). — This exceedingly pretty tree belongs to the Cherry family, and, like all other members of the group, it is referred to under the name of Cerasus. In Japan Cherry blossom time is marked by national rejoicing, while in this country the flowering of the Cherry, including innumerable varieties, is looked upon as the most delightful of all seasons in the garden or countryside. P. acida dumosa is a variety of a European species which flowers profusely even at an early age. Flowering as it does without attaining great dimensions, it is a very desirable tree even in a small garden. This variety is not widely known, but it resembles All Saints' Cherry (P. acida semperflorens), to which it is closely related. The Rose Annual. — On another page we publish some particulars of the Rose Annual, the official organ of the National Rose Society. We have no hesitation in describing this as the best the society has ever published, and the thanks of all rosarians are due to the Council and the hon. secretary, who has acted as editor. for their efforts. The Rose .Annual for 1914 is an interesting, varied and practical symposium on Roses, and we hope all our readers will secure and read it. That way lies the advancement of the Rose. A Useful Dwarf Shrub. — Pyrus Maulei is a valuable hardy, low-growing shrub, and flowers most profusely. It naturally assumes a neat, bushy habit, and is at the present time covered with its bright red flowers, which completely hide the plant. These are followed later by large A WELL-FLOWERED TREE OF PRUNUS ACIDA DUMOSA. ruddy-cheeked fruits, which form a conspicuous feature in autumn. Being from i foot to 2 feet high, it makes a verj' attractive edging to taller shrubs, or it may be planted on the bolder parts of the rock garden with telling effect. Two Beautiful Aubrietias. — When visiting the famous rock gardens at Friar Park, Henley- on-Thames, on Friday last, we w-ere pleased to find Aubrietias Mrs. Lloyd-Edwards and Fire King growing to perfection. Both were artistically grouped in large masses between huge sandstone boulders, and the first named was a perfect sheet of violet blue flowers. Fire King, though not so free with its blossoms, was, however, a charming sight, the warm red flowers showing to perfection when kissed by the afternoon sun. Both ought to be grown in every rock garden where spring flowers arc appreciated. A Charming Golden-Leaved Plant.— Another Aubrietia that Sir Frank Crisp grows so well on his rock garden at Friar Park is A. aurea. Although we do not care for most plants with variegated foliage, an e.xcep- tion must be made in this instance. It would, perhaps, be more correct to speak of it as a golden-leaved plant, though some of the foliage is undoubtedly variegated. How- ever, the main colouring is soft golden yellow, and as the flowers- are pale mauve, the combination, of colours is exceedingly charming. Undoubtedly its attractiveness is enhanced by the massing of the plants in one large group, instead of ! scattering them about as isolated specimens, as is too often done. Spring Flowers at Hampton Court. — The beds and borders of spring flowers at Hampton Court are now flowering to perfection. In the long border, Wallflowers Harbinger, Primrose Dame, and Ruby Gem, the latter of a purple hue, are all beautifuUv arranged with a profusion of Polyanthuses and spring bulbs. Hyacinth Car- dinal Wiseman (pink) and Tulips Keizerskroon, Cottage Maid and Duchess de Parma are flowering magnificently. The following make very attractive beds : Tulip Rose d',\mour and Hyacinth Grand Blanche over a groundwork of the purple Aubrietia Dr. Mules ; Wall- flower Fairy Queen and Tulip Fred Moore. What is perhaps the prettiest bed of all is composed of Narcissus Mrs. Langtry, Hyacinth Yellow Hammer and Tulipa clusiana, otherwise known as the Lady Tulip. Other good beds are Narcissus Mme. de Graaff, Tulip MuriUo, with Aubrietia Dr. Mules ; and Tulips Yellow Prince and Joost van Vondel (white> with purple Aubrietia. Narcissus Queen of Spain with Saxifrage Red Admiral make a pleasing display when grown together. 202 THE GARDEN. [April 25, 1914. CORRESPONDENCE. {The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents.) The Large Narcissus Fly. — 1 should be greatly obliged to any of your readers who, digging up failing Narcissus bulbs at this season and finding the larvae of the large Narcissus fly in them, would send examples to me. — F. J. Chittenden, The Laboratory, Royal HorlicuUural Society's Gardens, Wisley, Ripley, Surrey. Daffodils with Lasting Qualities.— I should very much like to know if any of your readers find any difference in the lasting qualities of Daffo- dils in bloom. This year I grew (in soil) bulbs of Victoria in a box and Mme. van Plemp in flower- pots. The latter were admirable, and the flowers kept in splendid condition much longer than the former. My accommodation for bulb-growing is extremely limited (one window), so that space is begrudged to bulbs that are quickly over ; and a " wait and see " policy could be dispensed with if some of the readers of The G.irden would enlighten me as to which Daffodils and Tulips are the " best lasters." In Tulips I found White Pottebakker continued to bloom longer than Grace Darling. Three pots of Prince of Austria are superb. There can be nothing better in TiJips. Colour, carriage, and a delicate Primrose scent are some of their charms. An amateur naturally wishes to try something new every year, and a guide as to lasting qualities would be invaluable. — M. E. E. Dahlia imperialis on the Riviera. — I was very much interested by your notes on this most famous plant in The Garden for December 20, 1913. It certainly is very much admired by all in this part of the Riviera. 1 am sending you a photograph of a very fine specimen grown in the garden of Miss Kay-Shuttleworth. It is over fourteen feet high, and shoots forth from the ground in May and grows rapidly until flowering- time in November. It needs a stiff loamy soil, copious supplies of water, and plenty of manure, and will do well facing due south, protected on the north-east against cutting cold wmds. — George Parish, Chalet Ponente, San Remo, Italy. [Un- fortunately, the photograph sent by our corre- spondent was not suitable for reproduction ; it showed a very fine plant. — Ed.] Sparrows and Spring Flowers. — Re the notes which have appeared dealing with this subject in The Garden under dates March 7 and 21, also April 11, I venture to draw the atten- tion of the writers of those notes to an article in the Country-side, " Sparrows and Crocuses," by Mr. E. Kay Robinson, the well-known naturalist. Mr. Robinson says a careful ■examination seems to show that the birds are after the stamens of the Crocus, the anthers of ivhich have some nutritive value, while the juicy tissues of some flowers and stems may be pleasant to eat also. Coming from such a careful investigator and acknowledged authority, I think these conclusions are weighty, and should be recorded for the benefit of all readers of The Garden. This season, for the first time with us, the sparrows have bitten off several heads of Muscari Heavenly Blue, leaving them near by. Also the just opening flowers of a double mauve Primrose recently put in the rockery were nipped off and left beside the plant, while last year they disfigured several Polyanthus spikes before we noticed them — both coloturs, but chiefly the yellow shades. How they mutilate the quite young leaves of the border Carnation when they push forth in early spring is well known. Apparently here it must be the juicy tissues that are the attraction. In each and every case the best deterrent so far known is a few strands of black cotton. — C. T., Highgate. Established Bulbs of Chionodoxa. — In regard to your note on page 178 of April 11 issue, I cannot agree with Mr. Negus about Chionodoxa sardensis being at its best in its first season. I have grown it and C. Lucilise for ten years here, and each year they have increased in growth and produce better flowers than when first planted. — B. C. Sykes, Borrobol, Kinbrace, Sutherland, N.B. My experience with Chionodoxas agrees with yours. No newly planted bulbs, be they ever so fine, give such good results as established bulbs. With these the flowers are individually larger, and are much more numerous on the spikes. I find that they do best when planted rather deeply, not less than 6 inches. Self-sown seedlings eventually descend to that depth, and frequently deeper. The soil here is stiff loam on clay. — A. D. Fort, Steepholm, Slades Hill, Enfield. I am at one with Mr. Negus in my dislike of loose colour descriptions, and often wish that there was some generally recognised standard of nomenclature, but I cannot understand why he objects to the term " Gentian blue " as applied to the tint of Chionodoxa sardensis. Perhaps he will tell us what he calls it, or how he would define it. To me it seems very appropriate. Again, with regard to newly planted bulbs being equal in vigour and floriferousness to those well established, I may say that I have bought a large number from both English and foreign sources for the last twenty years, and mj' experience is that it is only on those rare occasions which prove the rule that Chionodoxas, when they flower for the first time after being planted, are equal to those old-established plants which give me good, sturdy spikes of 9 inches to 12 inches in length, bearing anything between ten and sixteen blooms. Perhaps Mr. Negus is oji/y thinking of what he bought last autumn when he says, " I have a few hundreds, planted last autumn, which are vastly superior in flower to my established clumps." It is rather curious that my bulbs, which were newly planted last autumn, have flowered this spring with altogether exceptional vigour ; but this is not the rule. — Joseph Jacob. The Improvement of Garden Roses. — There is much to be said in favour of the improvement of what are termed " garden Roses," but to do this there are many obstacles in the way. First, how are garden Roses to be defined ? Some of the finest exhibition varieties are also excellent sorts for the garden. Take Gloire de Chedane Guinoisseau, one of the best of exhibition sorts, and certainly most valuable in the garden. The growth is vigorous, compact, and the freely produced blooms upon an ordinary bush plant are certainly decorative and suitable for any garden. Take, again. Dr. Grill as a bush or a standard. No Rose in the garden is more appre- ciated for cutting for the house, and no Rose of less value for the exhibitor. Take, again, Mrs. Edward Powell, a newer type, remarkable for its rich colouring, robust growth, freedom and continuity of flowering right into October. As a garden Rose none is more appreciated. It is most difficult to define a garden Rose apart from an exhibition variety, I think we shall find Mme, Edouard Herriot one of the best of garden Roses, but doubtful as an exhibition variety. I really do not think much fault can be fomid with the awards of the National Rose Society, when we consider what a large number of sorts are yearly placed before the committee. Those gaining an honourable distinction in the past have as a whole fully borne out the justice of the award. What I think is carried to excess is the enormous number of new varieties sent out yearly, especially by some firms. So many are nearly alike that we do not require all that are put upon the market ; but how is the amateur to dis- criminate when nothing but a catalogue description to guide him is available ? Some suggest a national trial garden for all new varieties. That scheme is not likely to come to pass ; it is much too slow for the present day. If a promising new varietv is introduced, the amateur wants it at once, as there is so much charm in watching the develop- ment of new sorts with a high reputation. 1 think if nurserymen would send out fewer new sorts annually, giving them a further test, the public would have more confidence and be inclined to purchase more freely. Personally, I do not think very drastic steps are needed in the method of recognising desirable new warietics of garden Roses. — E. M. A discussion of this subject is certain to appeal to a very wide circle of your readers, and it is to be hoped that some valuable sugges- tions may result. Though keen amateur rosarians may by " elimination of undesirables get what they want," it seems to me that this method, involving as it does expense, waste of time and disappointment, has little to be said in its favour, particularly in the case of those enthusiasts whose means and space are limited. Your correspondent Mr. Taylor points out on page 171 issue April 4 that the system under which awards for show Roses are granted is useless applied to garden or decorative Roses, and it is here, I think, that a strong appeal should be made to our National Rose Society to formulate some scheme for " hall- marking " such of the new Roses found to excel in those desirable qualities enumerated bv " White Rose." Form and colour arc details quite readily picked up at the shows ; but three points to which I attach special importance, viz., freedom of bloom, behaviour as a cut-back, and healthiness of foliage, can only be correctly judged by extended trial. To take a casein point. That very beautiful Rose Queen Mary, Mr. H. E. Mol^Tieux, whose criticisms of the newer Roses are so highly appre- ciated, appears to have fallen a willing victim to its charms, and yet, judging solely by the plants on view when it was awarded the gold medal last July, neither its growth nor its beauty of foliage appears to be a marked feature of merit. (Mr. Molyneux does not refer to either point in his appreciation.) There are, I am sure, many rosarians who prefer to see their Roses in the garden, and it is there that healthy, ample and handsome foliage is absolutely essential to bring out the fullest beauty of the bloom. Those varieties subject to defoliation, mildew. Sec. cannot be considered good garden Roses. 1 venture to suggest that if a distinctive award for decorative Roses only could be instituted — the points to be taken into account being form, colour, fragrance, growth and freedom as a cut-back, quality and amplitude of foliage — such an award would stamp a Rose as of outstanding merit for garden purposes, and be accepted by amateur rosarians with implicit confidence. — H. Stevenette, Wanstead, N.E. April 19140 THE GARDEN. 203 Camellia reticulata Flowering Outdoors. — Some of your readers may like to know that after four years from planting I picked on Good Friday some lovely blooms of Camellia reticulata grown in tlie open ground in peat soil, and with no covering during the winter. — Alfred C. Lever, Saltwood, Kent. Preserving Stone. — On page 188 of your issue of April 11 I notice under " Answers to Corre- spondents " a reply to " E. F. O." The Bath stone lirms of Bath sell a chemical called (I believe) Fluate, which has the virtue of hardening some kinds of stone, and this will probably supply your correspondent's need. I so much enjoy The Garden that I shall be glad if this informa- tion is of any use to you. — Percy C. Webb. Coronilla glauca Growing Out- doors.— It may not be generally known that the old sweet-scented Coronilla glauca that is grown in the greenhouse will thrive and do better planted out in the garden in a warm situation. I was looking round a garden the other day, and saw two plants of C. glauca growing on a warm south border. The gardener told me he planted them out about two years ago. They certainly looked the picture of health, and appeared to enjoy their open position. I noticed the plants were smothered with the pretty yellow, fragrant flowers, and the bees were busy about them. I thought what a contrast to the starved condition we often see them in the greenhouse. — W. Driver, Stonehouse. [This plant does well outdoors in many districts. — Ed.] Cold Stor^e for Roses. — Regarding this, " Danecroft," on page 167, issue April 4, is hardly correct in stating that American florists cold store Roses. All the United States florists have ice- boxes— really, large glass-sided coolers — for keeping flowers during the hot weather ; but actual cold storing for an indefinite period is not possible. Prior to certain flower days, of which there are many in America, some growers and wholesale florists do hold up part of their supply for two or three days ; but these " pickled " Roses and Carna- tions arouse great hostility. Retailers who get hold of such stock quickly discover the fact^ for the blooms soon collapse when exposed to the ordinary temperature. I venture to hazard that chilled Roses would soon be ^ i^'EV asleep if staged at a summer show. — T. A. W. How to Trap Slugs. — I am sure everyone with a garden where the soil is heavy is plagued with slugs this year, and just at present they are increasing very rapidly. I have tried Orange peel, patent traps, slices of Turnip, and Cabbage leaves. All are good, but cover far too small an area. I have now begun on a large scale to trap them by means of an old wet sack thrown on to the seed-bed at night, and either bran or a little flour sprinkled under it. Every kind of horror from the soil is revealed in the morning. Wireworms hurry down their holes, woodlice curl into balls ready to be caught, and slugs and worms lie on the sack, and can be shaken out in the chicken run. ---Ethel Case, Biskoft's Waltham Chase. A Beautiful Hardy Plant.— To those who intend adding to their list of hardy plants, I should like to mention CEnothera Arendsii, a lovely subject for the rockery or border. We grew it last year for the first time. It proved a most useful and continuous plant to flower from June to October, with pretty rose pink flowers. It can be easily propagated from cut- tings, and it came through this winter without protection. It prefers a warm, sunny border. ROSE-GROWING IN TOWN GARDENS. VARIETY OF THE PURPLE-LEAVED PLUM, PISSARDII BLIRIEANA FLORE PLENO. I am of the opinion that it would be very useful as a pot plant. — M. Nicholls, Kemsing, Kent. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. April 29. — National Auricula and Primula Society's (Midland Section) Show at Birmingham (two days). Perpetual Flowering Carnation Society's Spring Show at Bournemouth (two days). Royal Caledonian Horticultrural Society's Spring Show (two days). April 30. — Manchester and North of England Orchid Society's Meeting. May 2. — Soci^te Fran^aise d' Horticulture de Londres Meeting. SOME NOTES ON ARRANGEMENT. NEATNESS and order iu a garden denote the careful cultivator, who will keep his plants clean and give them every opportunity to do well. But the benefits obtained from the exercise of taste in arrangement are beyond anything that mere tidiness can secure. Some amateur Rose-growers, whose chief hobby is the exhibition of their blooms, like to model their gardens upon the same lines as the nurserymen. The latter find it convenient to marshal their plants in formal rows ; but the amateur is plant- ing for permanent effect, aP-d surely it is best to make the appearance of tlie garden worthy of its productions. In a small garden the ideal is naturally harder to attain, and it requires a certain amount of ingenuity to overcome the primness that is inevitable if one follows out the straight lines of the boundary in the design. Paths need not invariably be straight, beds may be fashioned into shapes that will help to avoid stiffness, and arches, pergolas or screens can be so placed as to secure effect without ob- structing the outlook or apparently diminishing the size of the garden. These are points which need to be considered separately in relation to each individual case, and an arrangement that appeals to one may merely irritate another, so that it is w^ell for each individual to be the surveyor of his own domain. The most natural and effective setting for Rose- beds is a lawn. Grass walks between give the beds a better finish, though they nxvolve a certain amount of extra work m cutting and edging. Moreover, the beds should be sunk slightly below the surrounding level, and this is more easily effected in a lawn than elsewhere. Colour schemes are well enough m a large and well-ordered establishment, but the town gardener usually finds them outside the range of practicability. Nevertheless, it is possible to avoid glaring errors of taste. It is with the red Roses that most care is needed, as it is m these that the clashing of colours mostly occurs. Scarlet tints, as in Cap- tain Hayward, are perhaps the most difficult for which to find suitable com- panions, and they should never be placed close to crimson or deep rose pink shades. Salmon pink and rose pink varieties should also be kept separate. Even in the lighter colours each kind needs to harmonise with its neighbour if it is to appear at its best. To be able to identify all the trees readily is an obvious necessity, and labels have many draw- backs. They are always more or less imsightly. If fastened to the trees, they are apt to damage the growths ; if placed in the ground, to get in the way of the hoe. The most satisfactory method is to make a rough plan of each bed, marking the names of the Roses as they are planted. Keen gardeners will find such plans add considerably to the joys of anticipation before their blooms appear. A rough sketch can be made very PRUNUS 204 THE GARDEN. [April 25, 1914. quickly, but many will like to elaborate it at leisure. Care is needed in placing screens, pergolas or I ither long and lofty arrangements, which frequently make a small garden look still more diminutive. \ pergola should lead from one part of a garden to another ; but it may also be made to form the entrance to the garden, and this is often the most convenient place for it where the latter is of small extent. It should not be placed across a short garden or down the centre of a narrow one. Sometimes it is difficult to know where to plant the climbing Roses so that they show to the best advantage. Pillars are always effective, are easily constructed, and do not take up too much room. They might often be made of more use. A row of these along the back (i.e., the north or west side) of the Rose- beds will always be admired, and so placed they will not be depriving the other Roses of sunshine. P. L. Goddard. that used to be thrown at the Hybrid Teas for the paucity of crimson and scarlet varieties will soon be removed, especially when we have other raisers also working on these lines. Messrs. Hugh Dickson's Brilliant will also be a fine triumph of colour. A mass of it at Belmont last July was as effective as a bed of Geranium Paul Crampel. It is a great advance to obtain Roses such as Red-letter Day, which combine vigour of growth with a free-blooming habit. There are many Roses free in growth, and in some respects too free, but they do not yield a corresponding amount of bloom TWO NEW HARD-WOODED PLANTS. An Exquisite Semi-Double Prunus. — As described in our last issue imder " New and Rare Plants," page 196, Prunus Pissardii blirieana flore pleno is a very beautiful plant, and quite distinct from the double form of the type. The branches are long and slender, with purple-tinted leafage, while the flowers are of a warm apple blossom pink and semi-double. It is a charming COLOURED PLATE. PLATE 1492. ROSE RED LETTER DAY. THE beautiful decora- tive Hybrid Tea group will be immensely strengthened by the addition of this brilliant Rose. I shall not soon forget the fine colour effect pro- duced by a mass of Red-letter Day upon my visit to New- towuards last July. What a colour, and what a grower ! It seemed to tower above every i>ther Rose as far as effective dis- play was concerned. The flowers .ire semi-double, and its velvety, brilliant scarlet crimson buds and fully opened Cactus-like petals never fade, as the reflex of the petals is satiny crimson scarlet, absolutely free from blue or magenta. This is a great gain, for everyone knows the bluish tint of the expanded flowers of such as Marquise de Salisbury is a great fault from a decorative point of view. There is a specially refined growth with Red-letter Day, and, as I said, it is splendidly vigorous. Moreover, it is festooned with bloom the whole of the flowering season. I can foresee the day when this beautiful novelty will be massed in huge quantities, for it is just the Rose we have been waiting for. Those who have had to make Rose gardens know only too well the difficulty of supplying good, brilliant colours to compare with the paler and golden shades, and I fear many have resorted to the old Hybrid Perpetuals because of their splendid colours, only to throw them out for their lack of decorative effect. Messrs. A. Dickson and Sons seem to have produced a most wondrous strain of free-flowering decorative Roses of brilliant colouring, for I saw many others that were being worked up, and I feel sure the reproach variety, valuable both for the decoration of tables One cannot well use such Roses as 1 and vases, and for garden effect in early spring. Clematis Armandii. — ^The ex- ceptionally high award of a first- class certificate was recently bestowed upon this Clematis bv the Royal Horticultural Society. It is a hardy and very free- flowering climber of strong growth. A description of this Chinese species appeared in our last issue, page 196. The pure white flowers are borne in axillary clusters early in the season. As this species combines hardiness with other good qualities, it is a great ac- quisition to the genus, and will certainly be widely grown in the near future. The plant illustrated was shown by the Hon. Vican;- Gibbs, Aldenham House, Elstree, Herts. CLEMATIS ARMANDII, A NEW HARDY SPECIES FROM CHINA. THE FLOWERS ARE WHITE. Hugh Dickson or J. B. Clark as bedders, and Griiss an Teplitz is most embarrassing in its growth, so that all who have had this difficulty to contend with will doubly welcome Red-letter Day. The gardening profession knows no politics, but I am sure all readers will desire that by the time Red-letter Day is introduced in June, its advent may witness a real red- letter day in Ulster, its home, in that peace with honour will be acclaimed by all parties in that lovely portion of a very beautiful country. Danecroft. YELLOW GLADIOLL Of the newest kinds of Gladioli, the yellows are, perhaps, most attractive, and though their prices are as yet a trifle high, they are well worthy of a place in every collec- tion. Of lemon colours I foimd Niagara most dainty and charming, but it is easily affected by the acid, sooty nature of our atmosphere (near Glasgow). Canary Bird 1 grow also, but last season it did not succeed well for some imac- countable reason, although I had previously found it a very fine variety. Glory of Noordwijk is a magnificent flower, and of the first order as an exhibition bloom. The tint is a distinct chrome yellow that shows up well in a group and stands clear for a long'time. I have no hesitation in placing it first among all the yellow varieties. Golden Measure, one of Messrs. Kelway's introductions, is a good second in the class of ordinary yellows, and as it is easier and cheaper to obtain, it may be more generally grown. It makes a fine spike for an exhibition group, and stands out promi- nently in a harmonious blending of tints on ac- count of its purity and brightness. Yellow Beauty and Golden Girl are both stately and distinct yellow varieties. They succeed very well in Northern gardens. Of deep yellows with a decided orange tint there are two. Golden West and Sunset, both without rival in this class. Enthusiasts will find the above varieties among the very choicest and most charming kinds. Craioielea. Supplement to THE GARDEN, April 25M, 1914 NEW ROSE: "Red Letter Day." Ihidsoii & Kcarns, Ltd.. Printers, Loitdon, S E. April 25, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 205 SEASONABLE NOTES ON WATER AND WATER-SIDE PLANTS. Thinning Out Dense Growth. — The season may now be said to have fairly arrived when pro- ceedings may be talcen either to renew and replenish, ■or to thin out such as are growing too luxuriantly. There is a considerable degree of tendency in the latter direction with such of the stronger Nymphaeas and other robust growers from among the many aquatic plants. These, if not occasionally thitmed out, will exceed all reasonable bounds. In doing this the flowers of many Nymphseas are really not seen at all, these being hidden under the mass of foliage ; such, for instance, as N. -Marliacea chromatella, N. M. rosea, N. M. albida, N. Colossea and N. Moorei. These are all vigorous growers, and often push up a dense mass of leafage well above the water. In rearranging such as these I have often pushed them out into deeper water, where they have done well. As much as 6 feet of water over them is none too much where they are tliriving well. .\11 that one has to do just now is, tirst, to secure one or two pairs of waterproof waders, such as fishermen use in salmon and other rod fishing. Equipped with these, one can wade into a depth of 3 feet 6 inches of water safely enough, if needs be. It is advisable to lower the water, how- ever, to a foot or so of the crowns. Then, with a good spade first to cut or divide the plants, and then one or two digging forks by widch to lift them out of the mud, it is easy to secure strong divisions. These, as soon as possible, should be placed into ordi- nary nursery rounds, such as those seen in one of the illustrations. There is nothing better than tliese for re-establishing the plants after division. Secure baskets that are large enough for the purpose ; then place a layer of last season's leaves at the bottom, and upon that some good turfy loam and road grit or river sand. On this place the lifted plants, with the crowns in all probability above the level of the top of the basket ; then fill in all the interstices with the same kind of soil, making it all fairly firm. It will then be necessary to pass over some stout tarred string to keep the plant in position, otherwise a plant will float away of its own accord after being replaced in the water. By so doing, all then will be secure until the roots once more establish themselves in the mud. Wlien baskets are not available, the divisions may be placed where they are to remain, being either pegged or otherwise weighted dow^n to prevent them from iioating, some good soil being used as in the baskets. The baskets, I might add, can be pulled out into deeper water by passing a cord through the handles of the baskets and thus pulling them to their position ; then the cord can be slipped out if it is double. In this way it is an easy matter to place them in 6 feet of water. Some to be Let Alone. — When a plant is doing well and not overcrowded, by all means let well alone. Of course, if the water is lowered to attend to the larger and denser masses, it is just as well to place some good soil around these. Perhaps also a crown may be seen to be extending over the sides of a basket that was put in at some previous time. In such a case cut away the basket and pack up soil to attract fresh root action outside. Personally, I prefer old rather than new nursery rounds ; these latter will often last sound too long for the real good of the plants. Other Water Plants. — It will be noted in the illustration, to which I have already referred, that the water-side plants that grow in the shallow portion next to the edge are cut down. This is as it should be at this season of the year. It will now soon be a dense mass of growth again. Some such plants — as Tj'^pha latifolia, Glyceria aquatica and Acorns Calamus — often grow much too freely and become too dense. Now is the time to thin these down with an unsparing hand. Many of the smaller-growing aquatic or sub- will thrive well. What we have done is to raise the soil in the water sufficiently high to plant them in this way ; first, by placing brick rubble in the water up to its level, then filling in with some clinkers and ashes so that one can walk upon it without getting wet. Upon this the soil is placed and the plants put in straight away. Senecio Clivorum does well in the same position ; so also do the Guuneras. By this method it is obvious that the roots percolate to the water and thus sustain themselves. To prevent the soil immediately in contact with the water from being washed away, it is well to place some rough pieces; of tufty grass next to the edge. The effect of such groups as these when backed up by Bamboos is most pleasing and appropriate. Some Other Aspects. — Water gardening, when carried out in a judicious manner and with due regard to the surroundings, is most , effective ; such as that, for instance, in the larger illustration A WELL-GROWN SEEDLING WATER LILY. aquatic plants require attention almost every spring to keep them as they should be. Myosotis palustris always, to my way of tliinking, thrives better the first season after transplanting. Buto- mus umbellatus may remain for two or three years ; then it will get too thick. Caltha palustris should be divided every other season. It is now just coming into flower with us. It ought to be much more extensively grown than it is, being very showy and lasting in flower for such a length of time. Trollius europa3us is now in flower. If it needs division, wait until the flowering is over. Aponogeton distachyou may be trans- planted at almost any season. It grows so freely and soon becomes re-established. Other Water-side Plants. — Of these there are several most useful and highly ornamental subjects ; for instance, the newer hybrid Astilbes, such as A. Ceres, A. Venus, A. rubella and A. grandis. If the soil in which these are planted is from 6 inches to i foot above the usual water-level, they that accompanies this article. In the season the effect would be very fine ; infinitely better, in my opinion, than any set design of flower beds. Here it will be also noted that the process of thinning out has been carried on, and by the use of the boat. One or two clumps in the foreground are showing indications of thinning out being required. In the illustration on this page an individual plant is depicted in good condition. This might require some such attention in a year or two. By the numerous letters of enquiry- respecting Water Lilies that reach me from time to time, I find that many still continue to use wooden tubs for their cultivation. Notliing, in my opinion, is more irrational than this practice. It necessarily follows that the soil within these tubs be- comes in time in a filthy, stinking condition, totally unfit for Nymphaeas, mud-lovers though they be. My advice is to never use tubs on any account. By this I mean- a tub that is sunk under the water for aquatic plants. Neither do I, in the 206 THE GARDEN. [April 25. iqi4. reprinted in The Garden lor December 6, 1913. Other Enemies. — I must not lengthen this article by more than referring to the other enemies of the Narcissus — the swift moth (Hcpialus lupinus), as to which see Mr. H. R. Darlington's able article in the Royal Horticultural Society's Journal, November, igog ; basal rot, if indeed it be, in fact, a specific disease, and not merely the outcome of other causes ; yellow stripe, rust, eelworm, slugs, &c. A good deal might usefully be said about each of these, and, looking at the status which the Nar- cissus has achieved in the world of horticulture, and to the immense number of people now interested in. the matter, the " Enemies of the Narcissus " would seem to be a fitting, subject for a full consideration in the coming Royal Horticultural Society's- " Daffodil Year Book" for 1914- Nothing could be more useful. Per- haps the editor, the Rev. J. Jacob, will give this his consideration. Foot 's Cray. Charles E. Shea. DAFFODIL NOTES. THE BASKETS SHOWN ABOVE CONTAIN WATER LILIES AND ARE PLACED IN POSITION FOR PLANTING construction of rockwork, advise that pockets be prepared for water plants ; these are equally as bad. If baskets are not used, the next best thing is to use loose bricks to keep the soil in its place. New Water Lilies.— Of these there are a few most promising varieties that will be distributed this season. These are N. Neptune, of which the growth is described as being moderate, with flowers from 6 inches to 7 inches in diameter, and in colour white shaded with rose ; N. Gonndre, best described as an improvement upon N. tuberosa Richardsonii, the colour white with the outer sepals shaded with green ; and N. Rene Gerard, evidently one of the most robust growers and with flowers some 9 inches in diameter — the colour is given as bright rosy crimson. Of those first sent out last year, the best are N. Fabiola, pink and white ; and N. Gloire du Temple-sur-Lot, which is a grand novelty, with a great multiplicity of petals, as many as 100 such having been counted. Two others are N. Picciola and N. Sirius. James Hudson, V.M.H, Gunneisbury House, Acton, W. THE ENEMIES OF THE NARCISSUS. {Continued from page T92.) The Well-Known Narcissus Fly (Merodon equestris).— About this little new has to be said. The weight of authority seems to show that the initial point of attack, wherever the eggs may chance to be deposited, is at the base of the bulbs, and there the grubs in their earliest stage must be looked for. How very easily the grub in this stage may be overlooked is evidenced by the fact that, some years ago, the, I think, leading authority upon the subject, Mr. P. D. Williams, sent to the Rev. W. Wilks twelve bulbs of Narcissi for examination ; but the presence of the grub was not recognised. However, the bulbs were planted in pots, and, later on, were produced to the Narcissus committee of the Royal Horticultural Society, when no fewer than eleven out of the twelve were foimd to contain the larvae of the Merodon equestris. Mr. Williams has demonstrated that the earliest presence of the larva can sometimes onlj^ be detected by the presence, at the base of the bulb, of " a tiny hole no larger than the head of a small pin." Professor Ritzema Bos has stated that soaking the bulbs in water before plant- ing, for one, or, better, two days, will destroy most of the grubs, and, although this is disputed by some, it should be tried, as it does not injure the biflbs. I mean to submit all future new piurchases, of expensive bulbs especially, to a season's quarantine away from the main bulb borders ; and we are being driven to the conclusion that yearly lifting and replanting has become an actual necessity. Now we come to another, and perhaps the most serious, as it is the most insidious, enemy which afSicts the Narcissus, namely, the parasitic fungus known as Fusarium bulbigenum. — Little known in this coimtry until the last few years, although it has existed in Holland for some considerable time, this fmigus has assumed such proportions that, according to the statement of growers on a large scale, " entire plots of bulbs have been destroyed." This fmigus is propagated by spores cast into the air, and also by mycelium in the ground. One does not want to be unduly alarmist, but, when such evidences of widespread destruction are brought before us by authority, it is clear that growers of the Narcissus must be on their guard. All available information as to this pest can be found in the Kew Bulletin. No. 8, 1913, VINCENT SQUARE, APRIL 7. Daffadowndilly was in town. Here, there and everywhere, all over the hall, 1 kept meeting her. She regularly seemed to dominate the show. There were certainly twelve large groups, without counting small oddments scattered up and down in com- posite collections. I have no fewer than seventeen varieties down in my notes as having been brought before the Narcissus committee, and I am not sure that I have not omitted one Or two of the unfortunates who were " passed," which is the usual ofl&cial formula uttered by the chairman to signify imsuccessful candidature for honours. Seedlings, especially yellow trumpets, naturally were a very conspicuous feature ; in fact, I think they were a little overdone. After all, the general gardener wants something where- with he can ornament his garden, and a single bulb or a small stock of four or five, let us say, does not go far — except, more than likely, in depleting his purse, for such luxuries are like the first plovers' eggs on the market, decidedly expensive. Hence I welcome such an exhibit as that of Suttons, which displayed in an attractive manner many of the more ordinary varieties which we specialists are apt to ignore and forget. Those who more or less come under the catcgorj' are relatively only a small number, and it is among these alone that there is any considerable demand for the higher-priced novelties. If I appear somewhat to discount what I have just said by now writing mainly from a show point of view, it is only because I consider catalogue time a more convenient and useful one for dis- cussing the merits and demerits of " stock " kinds. I am writing these notes at the home of Mr. W. F. M. Copeland at Shirley, which is a suburb of Southampton, and where a very cursorj- trot round a large, old-fashioned garden soon showed me that he is as keen on seedling-raising here as he was at his old home near Stone, and April 25, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 207 that we are about to have Shirley Daffodils as we already have Shirley Poppies. I wish all his great range of doubles — Vulcan, Gollywog, Rags and Tatters, Whirligig, &c. — had been raised here; "Shirley Doubles" would have been so handy and euphonious a title. Royal Sovereign, which gained an award of merit, is one of his latest productions. It is of meditun size and loosely built, after the style of Argent. The perianth is white, and the pale lemon corona is not so divided or spread about as is usual. It gives the idea of a lot of short bits bunched, and then opened out at the top and caught together at the bottom. It is a cross between Minnie Hume and Telamonius plenus. Tintoretto, another new double, with deep primrose and orange red colouring, was among those which kept it company on Messrs. Cart- wright and Goodwin's stand. It is another even more loosely built bloom, with many bits of primrose perianth in evidence round and among the red-edged, deep orange, broad and boldly split corona. As I journeyed down here in the train, I thought of all the wealth of flowers that had passed under my review during the day, and tried to single out the best. When the time came for gathering up our belongings, I had come to the conclusion that Crystalline, Florist's Favourite, White Maximus, Vauban, The Marquis, Maid of Honour, Vacuna and (to include an older one) Midas were certainly not to be omitted ; so perhaps I had better, without more ado, proceed to describe them. Crystalline (R. H. Bath) is a pure white Leedsii of the long, rather narrow segmented type, with a delicate-looking cup of narrow diameter, fringed or fluted at the top in such a wa3' that I was reminded of The Fawn. It is not very often that I see a flower that I like so much, and I do not wonder that the tiny stock is to be " grown on " before any bulbs sold out to the public. Dimensions, A. la Sydenham : 3 J inches x (li inches x i|- inches) x (ij inches x seven-eighths of an inch). Florist's Favourite, a transfer from Dinton, was on Mr. Bourne's stand, and although it was sur- rounded on its circular dais by such beauties as Queen of Hearts, Bernardino and The Earl (yellow Ajax), it seemed to stand there like a king among them, ready to receive the homage of delighted florists. It is a rich deep yellow bloom, with a stiff, flat, widely segmented perianth, which is set at right angles to the trumpet, which in turn is short,, wide and nicely recurved at the brim. It is well named, for it is a very " fioristy " flower, and is bound to be a favourite among the show fraternity. Size : \\ inches x (r J inches x ijj inches) x (ij inches x 2 inches). White Maximus (W. T. Ware) features in its general appearance its well-known namesake, although if each part were to be taken separately and compared, there would be found many differ- ences in detail. It is a loosely built, large and long stalked pale bicolor trumpet. Although of ample width, the segments are long and pointed, with a graceful twist in three of them. The trumpet looks longer than it really is, owing, I think, partly to it not being over wide in diameter and partly to the arrangement of the petals, which allows one to see its whole length so clearly and easily. Size : 4f inches x (r-J inches x if inches) X (r| inches x 2 inches). Vauban (Wilson) is an exceedingly fine, hand- some, deep yellow giant incomparabilis, raised by the exhibitor himself. The large, somewhat straight-looking cup is a decided orange yellow, and is distinguished by the wide scalloping of its brim. The broad, stiff petals are a little turned in at their very edge. This is a feature which seems to be " coming along," but which, just at present, is uncommon. It is a totally different thing from the incurving that we know so well in old Frank [ Miles or The Doctor, being confined to the very edge, like we see it in many Darwin and florist ' Tulips. Measurements : 4J inches x (i| inches x : if inches) x (ij inches x ij inches). I would like to take this opportunity, while writing of a flower in Mr. Wilson's collection, to say that I made a mistake in saying in my notes of April 4 that the lovely Poetaz Rubellite was raised by P. D. Williams : it should have been by J. C. Williams. The Marquis (R. H. Bath) is a very refined, deep yellow Ajax — practically a self — distinguished by the rich, sleek texture of its flat, right-angled perianth and its shapely trumpet. The specimens on the stand were oldish blooms, but age had made no ravages in its beautiful appearance. The flowers are borne on long, stiff stems. Like Vauban, it was raised by the exhibitor. Dimen- sions : 4j inches x (ij inches x i| inches) x (2 inches x rf inches). Maid of Honour (Chapman). — I often envy Mr. Chapman's intimacy with the late Rev. G. P. Haydon, for in him he was associated with a great character, and " characters " are invariably interesting people. I have always been told that Mr. Haydon was a man of very sudden impulses. One moment he would pour on you the full vials of his wrath, but a second after the sun would shine and he would be as jolly as a sandboy, and nothing that he could do for you would be too much. One day a generous impulse seized him when Mr. Chapman was in his garden, when, as it so happened, they were looking at a dainty little white (or very pale bicolor) trumpet. " You like it, do you ? Well, it is vours. I give it you." AN EFFECTIVE GROUPING OF CHOICE WATER LILIES. 208 THE GARDEN. [April 25, 1914- That is the history of how the fascinating Maid of Honour came to be one of the three best — if not the best — things in this interesting seedling collection on this particular date. It is a little like Mrs. Robert Sydenham. Size : sf inches x (i| inches x ij inches) x (ij inches x ij inches). Vacona (Barr) seemed to me to stand out among the group of new home-raised seedlings, although many good judges considered an unnamed Giant Leedsii (No. 1276) to be a better flower. The reason that I cUffered from them was that I thought the perianth was too large in proportion to the size of the cup. Vacuna may be described as a massive pale bicolor Ajax, quite away from such varieties as Averil, Cygnet or Florence Pearson, inasmuch as there is very little recurve in the brim of the somewhat wide trumpet. There seems to be an opening for this type. Measurements : 4f inches X (ij inches x i| inches) x (2 inches x ij inches). Midas (Wilson) is one of the many beautiful flowers that have been raised by Mr. J. C. Williams. It is also one of the exceedingly large progeny of that great giver of " good things," Princess Mary. It has a well-formed, imbri- cated, white, reflexing perianth of much substance, with a large, palish yellow cup, edged with a narrow band of red. Measurements : 3i inches x i\ inches. I call it a restful flower, which very much belies the appearance that its name suggests. .\mong some of the other flowers which caught my eye on my tour of the hall were Glyngarth, a sturdy bicolor giant incomparabilis ; Veronique, a pure white, loosely built Leedsii of mucli distinction ; Tantalus, an old type Giant Leedsii, which received an award as a cut flower ; Elgiva, a Barrii with a very uncommon coloured ruddy buff cup ; and Queen Primrose, a pale squat trumpet 4|. inches x (I is inches x i| inches) x (ij inches x i^ inches). Joseph Jacob. SEASONABLE NOTES ON VEGETABLES. having been finally forked over after giving a dressing of soot and wood-ashes, with a sprinkle of lime, choose a dry day to rake over the surface and mark out the rows. If these are to be in beds %vith an alley between, allow 2 feet for the latter. The beds may be 6 feet or 10 feet wide, according to the number of plants required ; 15 inches between the rows will suffice, and 13 mches from plant to plant. Lift the plants carefully with a trowel, retaining a good ball of soil to each, so that the plants will receive little or no check to growth. Do not bury the bulb, but keep it on a level with the soU. Should the weather be dry at planting-time, gently water the plants in to induce a quick root action. Runner Beans. — Make a sowing in a box in a cool house for an early- crop. Directly the plants are above the soil, remove to a cold frame to in- duce a hardy, stocky growth, which will ^_ much facilitate progress when the plants are put out. French Beans. — Sow half-a-dozen Beans in a 4-inch pot in a cool house, to be transferred to 8-inch pots later on for growing in a cold frame for successional supplies. In a week or ten days time a sowing should be made in the open on a warm border if the soil is of a light character ; if heavy, sow in pots in a cold frame for planting out later. Broad Beans, — A final sowing in the open should be made for the latest crop, although one still later can be made where Beans quite small are required for special use. Onions. — ^The plants sown under glass and grown on in boxes will now require planting into their permanent quarters. The ground NARCISSUS CRYSTALLINE, A PURE WHITE VARIETY O L L_^LEEDSII GROUP, WITH A FRILLED TRUMPET. Afterwards keep the soil moved between the rows, and occasionally dust the plants over with soot. Peas. — Sow now, for use in August and Septem- ber, varieties like Duke of Albany, Alderman, Quite Content or Superlative. Do not sow the seeds nearer than 3 inches apart ; this allows ample room for a full development of the haiflm, without which good pods cannot be secured. If the ground was well manured and deeply dug or, better, trenched, nothing beyond a forldng over now in dry weather will be required before drawing drills 4 inches deep for the seeds. Should the weather be dry, well soak the bottom of the drills before sowing, which hastens germination con- siderably. Keep a sharp look-out for mice, which, if numerous, will quickly spoil the row by eating the seeds. Nothing is better for clearing these pests than two ordinary bricks, one stood on edge, the other canted on its edge, so that it is propped up to the other brick by a piece of stiff wirt- 2 inches long, baited with toasted cheese. Leeks should now be planted from the pots or boxes in which they were raised into trenches taken out 2 feet deep and 18 inches wide. The bottom of the trench should be broken up at least 6 inches deep. On this place a layer of half-decayed farmyard manure at least 4 inches deep ; then a layer of old potting soil, into which the plants are transferred from the pots or boxes with a good ball of soil attached to the roots. If the weather is dry, give a good watering after planting, also make sure that the plants are sufficiently moist at the roots before planting. Carrots. — Make successional sowings thinly in rows 15 inches apart for the strong-growing varieties like the Intermediate type. For the Horn varie- ties a foot between the rows is ample. Thin and hoe among plants well above the sou. Brussels Sprouts from the second sowing should be planted out as fast as the plants are ready. It is a mis- take to allow the plants to become drawn up weakly in the seed-bed. Plants 4 inches high are large enough, as at that stage they plant with less fear of a check. Too often the seed is sown too thickly, which means weakly plants. It is far better, when there is a risk of this being so, to thin out the weaker-growing plants in the beds, as this allows more space for the remainder. Salsify should be sown in drills 15 inches wide. If the soQ is heavy or stony, make holes with an iron bar at least 2 feet deep to ensure straight roots, as when the seedlings meet with obstructions, as stones or hard clods, they make fangs, and are not suitable for cooking, apart from appearance. In sandy soil this trouble is not experienced. Sowing seeds such as Broccoli, Cabbage, &c.,in the open in beds is at times diffi- cult to accomplish satisfactorily, owing to drought, which often prevails during April and May, when many vegetable seeds should be sown. It is a common practice with the uninitiated to sow the seeds and water the beds ' XHii afterwards, which creates a crust on thi- surface, making it difficult for the tin\- seedlings to push through. The best way to ensure success is to dig over the beds roughly and give the soil a thorough soakuig the day before sowing the seed, and shade them with mats to prevent the too rapid evaporation of the moisture from the soil by the sun's rays, assuming, ot course, the weather is hot and dry at the time. The next day the clods will easily fall to pieces. The seed can be sown and lightly covered with some old potting soil, again applying the shading until the plants are coming through the surface, when it should be gradually removed, affording light and air to induce a stocky growth. Lettuce should be sown every fortnight in drills where the plants are to remain, thinning out the plants as soon as large enough to handle, and planting in other drills previously \Tatered. Swanmore. E. Molynf.ux. April 25, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 209 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. HOW TO RAISE AND GROW ASPARAGUS. ]n naturalJy light soils very fine crops of j opening material may be put in, as the trenching Asparagus can be grown without much trouble, proceeds, where the drainage is poor. Do not bury The expense is not great, but the cultivator must 'such material too deeply — 18 inches below the surface will do nicely. -hi 6f^ Planting. — In cold soils and in the Northern Counties the end of this month will be soon enough to put in plants or seeds. In the Southern Counties and where the soil is naturally light, the middle of the month will do. On a fine day, and where the ground is dry, fork up the surface soil and leave the subsoil, represented by No. i in Fig. A, undisturbed. Then form shallow ridges, as shown at No. 2, 18 inches apart ; these ridges need not be more than 3 inches or 4 inches high. On them carefully place the young plants so that their roots may be evenly spread out, as shown. Strong two be prepared to wait at least two years before he | year old crowns are the best to plant, and they can reap remunerative crops, as it is very unwise j must have a space of about nine inches between to use Asparagus before it is strong enough to j them in the rows. Do not allow the roots and withstand the cutting. Both heavy and light I crowns to be unduly dried by long exposure to ///////// A. DIAGRAM TO ILLUSTRATE THE PLANTING OF ASPARAGUS. NOTE THAT THE PLANTS ARE ON SMALL RIDGES BEFORE BEING COVERED. soils must be deeply trenched before seeds or plants are put in, as, once established, the plants remain so for many years, and the cultivator has no opportunity afterwards of making good any defect in the formation of the beds below the surface. Only top treatment can be given after the plants are growing. If the soil is light and sandy, form the beds in a position where the ground is quite flat, if this is convenient ; but if it is heavy and retentive of moisture, then select a plot having a gentle slope, if one is available. Trenching and Manuring. — The work of trenching should be done in the autumn or winter. the air, but get them covered up with SOU as quickly as possible. No. 3 shows the crowns covered and that portion of the bed finished off. Sowing. — The same preparation of the soil is necessary as in the case of planting roots, only it will be well to make the surface portion some- what finer. No. 1, Fig. B, shows the subsoil containing also the rotted manure. Drills must be opened 18 inches apart and 3 inches deep. No. 2 shows the seeds dropped 3 inches apart in the drills and covered 3 inches deep. Rather deep sowing is much better than shallow sowing, because the seeds germinate better at this season, if convenient, and in the case of clayey land | when surface soils quickly dry up, and if the the manure may be put in then ; but when dealing I resultant plants are to remain permanently in with light soils, add the manure in February or early in March by simply forking it in the surface, turning over the soil on it and leaving the top portion as rough as possible. In every case break up the subsoil well. Broken bricks and similar TrnTt^^jr/mrmm -1 E._H0W TO sow SEEDS OF ASPARAGUS. THEY ARE PLACED 3 INCHES APART AND 3 INCHES DEEP, IN ROWS l8 INCHES ASUNDER. that position, when cut the " grass " is much finer than after shallow sowing. Every other seedling in the row may be pulled out, if all seeds germinate, while quite small. This and the keeping down of all seedling weeds is all the work needed to be done the first summer. The " grass " must be cut down to within 2 inches of ^ ~ — the soil when it is matured -_ ^ ■- _ in the autumn. Weakly Roots and Strong Ones. — No. I in Fig. C shows a weakly root and crown ; the growth resulting from such is shown at No. 3. No. 2 represents a strong crown, possessing ' plenty of fleshy roots ; such plants produce very satisfactory growths, similar to that shown at No. 4. If a period of dry weather comes, do not hesi- tate to water the young plants freely. G. G. HOW TO GROW SWEET WILLIAMS. These old-fashioned flowers are again attracting a good deal of attention, and rightly so, for they are showy hardy biennials of the easiest possible culture. To secure a good display next year, seeds ought to be sown within the next few weeks. They may be sown either in the open ground or in pans. The latter method is preferable, and germination take; place quicker and more regular. Pans or boxes of suitable dimensions should be selected and partly filled with drainage, over which is placed a thin layer of moss or rough material to secure a free passage for water. A mixture of loam and leaf-mould put through a quarter-inch mesh sieve is an excellent compost, and the seed ought not to be covered too deeply. Place the pans in a cold frame, and when two or three leaves are made, the seedlings may be pricked out / J I 1 C. — POOR CROWNS AND GROWTHS CONTRASTED WITH THOSE TH-AT HAVE HAD GOOD TREATMENT. into nursery beds till the autumn, unless their flowering site is available, when they are best planted direct into it. Frequently, however, they must go to a spare bed, whence they are lifted early in October and replanted where they are to flower. Thoroughly drained soil is essential, as the plants are liable to suffer in wet soil during the winter. Sweet Williams are well suited for shrubbery borders, masses in beds, the herbaceous borders and, in fact, almost anywhere that the soil is reason- ably good. For most amatetirs a.good mixed strain is best if purchased from a reliable seedsman ; but for those who desire distinct shades I would suggest Pink Beauty (which has delicate pink flowers). Scarlet Beauty and Dark Crimson. Then there is the Auricula-eyed in variety, which possess rich colours, with a white eye and margin. S. 210 THE GARDEN. [April 25, 1914. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruit Houses. Fig Trees in Borders require careful stopping aud thinning. Remo\-e weak growths before the trees become crowded, and stop side shoots at a few eyes beyond the fruits which are swelling. Do not allow the borders to become too dn,'. or many of the fruits will drop ; 65° at night will be quite high enough. Early Permanent Vines. — If started at the beginning o^December, the Grapes will now be colouring. The border should be examined, and, if at all dry, a good watering of weak liquid maninre should be applied before the crop is too far advanced. If this can be obtained from the farmyard and diluted with warm water until it is of the required temperature, so much the better. A good sprinkling of soot may also be applied with advantage. Tomatoes. — Plants from which ripe fruits are being gathered should be given an occasional top-dressing of artificial manure. Confine the plants to single stems by the removal of all side shoots as they appear, and do not allow them to suffer from want of water at the roots. Early spring-so\vn plants will now be setting their fruits, and should be frequently top-dressed with fine loam in which a quantity of artificial manure has been mixed, and this should be pressed tightly on the surface of the soil. Ventilate freely and keep the foliage well thinned, removing all side shoots as they appear. When a sufficient crop is set, the leading point may be removed from the plants and frequent waterings of liquid manure given. A night temperature of 65° or 70° will suit them well. Plants Under Glass. Perpetual-Flowering Carnations which have been flowering throughout the winter and spring may now be removed to some spare pit or shelter in order to prepare them for planting ui the open. If these plants are carefully tied to wires or strong sticks, they will produce a quantity of useful flowers in the autumn ; but they must never be allowed to become too dry at the roots. Young Carnation Plants \vhich were struck in December should now be ready for potting uito 6-inch pots. Keep the pit moderately close until fresh roots are made, after which the plants must be freely ventilated to keep them from be- coming drawn. Cinerprias. — A small sowing may now be made to produce an early batch of plants. Sow in clean pans of sifted loam aud !eaf-soil, make moderately firm and sow thinly, covering very lightly with fine soU. When large enough to handle, the young plants should be placed singly in smaji pots and shaded from strong sun through- out the season. The most suitable position is a cool pit facing nor li. and the pots should stand on a good bed of ashe; witliin 15 inches of the roof glass. The Flower Garden. Tuberous Begonias.— if these have been gently started in boxes, thf y should now be parted with a sharp knife anj. potted into 4-inch pots. Place them in a warm pit quite near the glass, but avoid forcing after they are established, for it should be remembered that the sturdier the plants are at bedding-out-time the better will be the results. Mignonette.— Several sowings of this sweet- smelling plant should be made during the season. The ground should be deeply dug and a good dressing of old manure incorporated with the soil, also a quantity of sifted mortar rubble. When large enough the plants should be freely thinned, "it is necessary to make the soil firm before the seeds are sown. Border Chrysanthemums should be planted out without delay. In order to ensure the best results, these plants should be stopped and thinned out as it becomes necessary. Keep the shoots tied to neat sticks, and never allow them to become overcrowded. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Cherries. — As soon as the trees have set their fniit, careful attention should be given to the destruction of green or black fly, which is almost certain to he present on the young shoots. Syringe the trees with some insecticide as often as it may be necessary, to keep these pests in check. Dis- budding should be attended to before the shoots become overcrowded, in order to avoid severe pruning during the winter. Mulching. — Fruit trees on south walls should receive a good mulching of farmyard manure before the season is too far advanced. The soil should be lightly broken up with the points of a digging fork before the mulching is given, and this should be applied to newly planted trees either on walls or in the open garden. No great quantity of manure should be used so early in the season, as this has a choking effect on the soil ; and if mulching is intended for the supply of food as well as a protection from strong sun, the material should be of a rich, stimulating nature. The Kitchen Garden. Carrots. — The principal sowing of Carrots should be made as soon as the soil is in working order. Sow in shallow drills a foot apart, and cover lightly with fine soil. As soon as large enough, the seedlings may be thinned to 6 inches apart. Frequent dustings of soot should be applied during the season. French Beans in pots should be freely watered with liquid manure. Pick the pods as soon as they are large enough for use, and if necessary they may be kept for a few days in a cool cellar. Sowings may now be made in cold pits for the supply of pods at the end of June. If seeds of Dwarf Beans are planted under a south wall, they will be of great value as a succession to those grown under glass. Runner Beans. — A sowing of Scarlet Runner Beans mav be made now in boxes or 4-inch pots, and placed in a cold pit to produce plants for planting in trenches in the open garden about the third week in May. Plants raised in this way have the advantage of protection from rough weather, and may be expected to come into bearing ten days before those sown in the open. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Celery. — The main crop should now be ready for pricking out, and where only a moderate quantity is required, this may be done in boxes. They should then be placed in a vinery for a time, at least until it is safe to place the plants in frames. Where a large quantity is needed, they may be pricked into frames right away and well protected during cold nights. The trenches should now be prepared for planting, and where possible they should run north and south. The plants must have a rich soil ; indeed, it is almost impossible to overdo them in this respect. Kidney Beans. — A small sowing may now be made on a warm border. With this important crop one has to take a great many risks. If the summer happens to be cold and wet, it is next to impnssible to get a crop, more particularly in the North. It will be wise to make a sowing in small pots. The seedlmgs can be planted out about the second or third week in May. But the safest plan is to make a sowing in some of the cold frames after the bedding plants have been taken out. Turnip-Rooted Beet. — Seeds may now he sown in lines in an earlv border. The roots will be much appreciated for the earlier supplies of salads. The sowing of the main crop had better be deferred for at least another week or so. The Flower Garden. Dahlias. — hs, soon as a sufficient stock of cuttings has been secured, place the old tubers in frames. These will be found handy to plant among the herbaceous plants or mixed borders. Treated in this way, they make large specimens and arc very effective in the late autumn. Canterbury Bells and Sweet Williams.— These should be placed in their flowermg quarters without delav. It will he as well not to plant in very large patches, as this would leave some nasty blanks after they had gone out of flower. I find it is a good practice to plant some Mont- bretia bulbs among them, which will take the place of the former when out of bloom. Gladioli. — Where it is the practice to plant these without hemg st.arted, no time should be lost in getting the bulbs out. Should the soil be of a heavy natiure, it will be advisable to put a little sand in with each bulb, and see that they are planted at least 4 inches deep. Early Flowering Chrysanthemums. — Old plants which provided cuttings for the season's stock should not altogether be discarded. These will be foimd to be extremely useful for giving an early supply of flowers, either planted in some odd corner or in the mixed border. The yoimg plants should now be fully exposed to the weather, and planted out as soon as they are sufficiently hardened. They may be pinched now or after they have obtained a start. Bedding Plants, — All plants which have been grown in heat should be placed in frames as soon as possible. Half-hardy annuals grown in boxes often receive a check through neglect in watering, so that it will be wise to plant them out as soon as it is reasonably safe. Besides, it relieves the pressure later when there is so much to see to. Yews. — The clipping of Yew hedges or the more ornate specimens may now be proceeded with. Even at this date they will most likely assume a rather yellowish hue. Still, with the increased warmth they soon recover. Where one has a hedge that does not seem to be par- ticularly happy, it will be foimd that in most cases the plants are suffering from poverty. In such instances apply a good chressing of rich farm- yard manure, and if this is at all unsightly, it can be covered with a little soil. Plants Under Glass. Deutzias. — ^Plants that have been forced will now be passing out of bloom, and should have the old wood cut back to encourage the young growth. As soon as growth commences, they should be repotted and kept growing on in moderate heat until growth is completed, when they ought to be stood out of doors. Plants that have not been repotted must have frequent applications of manure-water. If it is intended to increase the stock, cuttings should be taken off and rooted singly in small pots. These will make useful little flowering plants for next season. Primula sinensis.— Where plants are required for early flowering, a small sowing may be made now, and as Primulas do not, as a rule, germinate freely, a little extra care will repay the grower. The seed-pans should be well drained and filled with a mixture of about equal parts loam and leaf-soil, with a little sand. The pans should be watered before sowing and allowed to drain. Sow the seeds thinly, cover with a piece of glass, aud place in a moderate temperature. They should never on any account be grown in too much heat. Winter-Flowering Pelargoniums. — A good batch of cuttings should now be rooted for supplying plants to bloom in early winter. These should be grown on in 6-inch pots and kept m frames fully exposed to the sun. The flowers must be pinched off as they appear until the end of August or the beginning of September, by which time the plants should be good specimens. House them not later than the end of September. Fruits Under Glass. Grapes Shanking. — .Although one docs not expect Grapes to shank at this early stage, stUl, it is usually in the earlier stages that the damage is done. One of the principal causes of shanking is that the Vines are planted in too rich a soil, causing them to grow on late in the season ; these late roots usually rot, which causes an unequal balance between top and root. Another cause is flagrant neglect of atmospheric conditions. Roots either too wet or too drv. and especially roots that have gone down and away from the influence of the sun ; denuding Vines of large quantities of foliage at one time, which causes a severe check; and overcropping are other factors that tend to bring about shanking. John Highgate. (Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.) Hopetoun Gardens, Soufh Qxieciisferry, N.B. April 25, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 211 EDITORIAL NOTICES. Evert/ department of horticulture is represented in The Garden, and the Editor inrites readers to send in questions relating to matters upon which thru >vish expert advice. The Editor ivelcomes ph>, articles and notes, but he ivill not be responsible for their safe return. All reasonable care, hoivever, will be taken, and where stamps are enclosedy he ivill endeavour to return non-accepted contributions . As regards photographs, if payment he desired, the Editor aslcs tliat the price required for reproduction be plainly stated. It must be distinctly understood that only the actual pfioto- grapher or owner of tfie copyright loill be treated ivith. The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic or literary contributions which fie may not be able to use, and the receipt of a proof must not be tafcen as evidence that an article is accepted. Publication in The Garden tvill alone be recognised as acceptance. Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. question! and answers.— y/ie Editor intends to make The Garden fielpful to all readers who desire assist- ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and ■with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers to Correspondents " columns. All cornmunications should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the EDITOR of The Garden, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address of the s^^r are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. Wfien more than one query is sent, each sftould be on a separate piece of paper. Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-ivool, and fioivering shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters on business should be sent to the Publisher. FLOWER GARDEN. SWEET PEAS IN GRASS LAND (H. fl.).— We do not see any reason why Sweet Peas cannot be grown in gras^ land, providing you make the holes a yard in diameter and break up the soil 2 feet deep. Of course, everything will depend on the character of the soil and the treatment the plants are given afterwards. You did not, unfortunately, give us any idea as to what you have done, or in what part of the country you are living. DAFFODILS NOT FLOWERING (W. Watts).— We think it is quite probable that the reason why your Emperor Daflfodils are not flowering better is overcrowding. These Daffodils increase very rapidly in most gardens, and the bulbs need lifting and thinning every other year to do well. Your best plan will be to lift all the bulbs this year when the foliage has naturally died down, separate them, and plant the strongest in the bed that you wish to have plenty of flowers in next spring. The smallest of them could be planted in a bed of good soil in some other part of the garden, and after having a year there would, no doubt, attain flowering size. SOWING NYMPH^ASEED (Winner). —Yomt Nympheea seed had better be sown indoors. Place a shallow tub or tank on the stage of a warm greenhouse where it will be exposed to the sun. Then sow th^ seeds thinly in pan?, or singly in small pots, filled with loamy soil. Cover the seeds with about a quarter of an inch of compost. The pots or pans must then be stood in the tub or tank so that they are covered by from half an inch to an inch of water. Change a little of the water daily if no means can be found for allowing a little of the waterto be continually running in and out. The seedlings ought to appear in a few weeks' time, and if in pans they must be potted singly as soon as they are large enough to handle. Plant in water out of doors when several leaves have been formed and the plants are fairly vigorous. It may be necessary to repot them into 5-inch pots first. WHERE TO OBTAIN VARIOUS PLANTS {Solent).— Of the several subjects concerning which you enquire. Salvia involucrata BetheUii is generally known in gardens and nurseries as S. BetheUii ; Chironia linoides is usually gro\Mi as C. ixifera ; and Pentas carnea is a well-known stove plant. Any nurseryman who makes a speciality of stove and greenhouse plants should be able to supply these. Apply to Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Chelsea, or to Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Bush Hill Park, Enfield. Senecio Heritieri is rarely seen outside of a botanic garden, but one of the above firms might keep it in stock. Calceo- laria Forgetii was introduced by Messrs. Sander of St. Albans, and no doubt they could supply it. For the herbaceous and rockwork plants, send to Messrs. John Waterer, Son, and Crisp, Wargrave Plant Farm, Twyford, BerkSj or Messrs. Thomas Ware and Co., Feltham, ftUddle- sex. Where any particular firm does not stock the plant enquired after, they will, as a rule, obtain it if possible. THE GREENHOUSE. ALPINE HOUSE {She^eld).—li you cannot find any other position than under the Silver Birch tree, we should ad\ise you to abaudou the idea of growing alpiucts, and takt; up choice hardy Forns instead. One of the essentials to success with alpines under glass is unrestricted light, which nothing short of an open position can ensure. Thie is even more important when, as in your case, there is some idea of permanent planting. Then, it would appear that the house would liave to be of a lean-to character, which also is not good. The best type of house is span- roofed ; the best position an entirely open one, which permits of ventilation on all sides as well as the roof. The plants should be grown in pots and pans, preferably in frames or on a bed of ashes in the open in the summer, and taken into the house in autumn. The size of such a liouse is optional to its owner ; it may be a dozen feet long or thrice that length, while a width of 10 feet would serve for all. If soil and stone were used on the staging, tho latter would have to be of a substantial character. They are not essential. In the circumstances, we think you had better consider the matter and then write u? again. FRUIT GARDEN. WIRES ON WALLS FOR FRUIT TREES (O. K. M.).~ Yes ; wire the walls for the fruit trees. It is possible to fix the wires about half an inch away from the wall, and this will be quite close enough for the branches. When the wires are fixed several inches from the wall, there is a cold current of air passing behind the branches and young foliage, and, in the case of Peaches and Nectarines, in some exposed gardens, leaf blister is then more prevalent. The branches can be kept from direct contact with the wires by twisting the tying material once or twice as you suggest. MISCELLANEOUS. ADMISSION TO THE CHELSEA SHOW iN»w Reader).— The spring show of the Koyal Horticultural Society, to be held at Chelsea on May 19, 20 and 21, will be open to the public on Tuesday, May 19, from 12 noon to 6 p.m., admission 10s. ; from b p.m. to 8 p.m., 2s. 6d. On Wednesday, May 20, from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m., 2s. 6d. ; from G p.m. to 8 p.m., Is. On Thursday, May 21, from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m., Is. At 6 o'clock on this day the show closes. After your Calceolarias have done flowering in pots, we do not think they would give any satisfaction if planted out in the garden. VARIOUS QUESTIONS (A. D.).—The two plants sent for identification are : (a) Chionodoxa Luciiise, flowers developed somewhat abnormally ; (&) Pieris floribunda. The Rose leaves appear to be affected by a fungus disease known as the rose-leaf blotch (Actinonoma rosae), but it has not developed suflaciently for correct identification. Spray the plant with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, and, as the leaves fall, collect them promptly and burn them at once. These precautions will probably act as a preventive against the disease appearing another year. The Rhododendron leaf is suffering from the presence of thrips, small black insects which prey upon leaves of many indoor plants. They are encouraged by a dry, close atmosphere and improper cultural conditions generally. Fumigate the house with a nicotine prepara- tion once a fortnight, and sponge the leaves now and then with soft-soap water. NAMES OF PLANTS. — ,/. C, i/e^a«d. — Narcissus J. B. M. Camm. J. R. D. — 1, Anemone blanda ; 2, Chionodoxa LucilJEc aigantea. Mrs. S., Holinbury St. Mary. — Yes ; the pink flower is Andromeda polifolia ; the pale Anemone is A. apennina ; the smaller anel deeper flower is Anemone blanda. BOOKS. The Rose Annual. — The Council of the National Rose Society are to be heartily congratulated on the exceedingly interesting and useful volume now before us. When we remember that this is only one of several publications that members receive, in addition to admission tickets to all the society's shows, it is not difficult to understand the phenomenal increase in membership year by year. Certainly this year's Annual is the best the society has ever published, and it is packed with interesting letterpress and illustrations from cover to cover. Those who are interested in French Roses will read with great pleasure M. Jules Gravereaux's descriptive account of his famous Rose garden at the village of I'Hay. As president of the French Rose Society he is rightly regarded as the leading amateur rosarian in France, and we thank him for placing on record so charming a description of his garden. The classification of Roses is becoming a serious problem, and we expected to find something relating to it in the Annual. Nor are we disappointed. Mr. Alex. Dickson of Belfast, Mr. W. Easlea, Mr. Peter Lambert, Mr. George Paul, V.M.H., the Rev. J. H. Pemberton, Mr. A. E. Prince, Mr. G. M. Taylor, Dr. A. H. Williams and Mr. George Gordon, V.M.H., al! offer suggestions for the rearrangement of our various classes of Roses, and doubtless the Council will be able to derive from these a basis on which to work. We hope to be able to deal with this subject more fully at a later date. Autumn-flowering pillar Roses, for which there is naturally a large demand, are fully dealt with by Mr. H. R. Darlington, and Mr. Pierre Guillot gives some very interesting information about the use of the Rose in the ornamentation of the garden. Then comes a most interesting article on the production of new varieties, by Dr. A. H. Williams. This is splendidly illustrated, and gives the novice some very valuable information about hybridisation and crossing, and the ripening, storing and sowing of seed. Mildew and black spot receive attention from Mr. M. A. Bailey, B.A. ; black spot from Mr. H. R. Darlington, who, we believe, has been troubled a good deal with it among his Roses ; and Mr. George G. Hamilton puts forward some rather startling ideas about the prevention of fungoid diseases from a surgeon's point of view. Diseases also receive attention from the Rev. F. Page-Roberts and Dr. A. R. Waddell. Mrs. H. R. Darlington, who always seems to have something fresh to say about Roses, and who has the gift of saying it in such an interesting way, gives particulars of the lasting qualities of cut Roses, a subject that is of more than ordinary interest to thousands of rosarians. Dr. H. T. Hinton gives some useful information about chlorosis, or the yellowing of foliage, and Mr. Courtney Page discourses on the budding of Roses, a subject tjiat is always of considerable interest to amateurs. This article is fully illus- trated, and is of a highly practical character. " How to Treat Roses the First Year after Planting" is the title of a useful article by Dr. C. Lamplough, while Mr. H. E. Molyneux, whose notes on newer Roses are so highly appreciated by our readers, deals fully with the new seedling Roses of 1913. The illustrations, a number of them in colour, are very interesting and good, and we advise all our readers who are not members of the National Rose Society to purchase a copy of this Annual. It can be had for 2s. 6d. post free from the hon. secretary, Mr. E. Mawley, Rosebank, Berkham- sted ; or, better still, send Mr. Mawley los. 6d. and become a member of the society, and so secure all the privileges that are extended to members. THE EDITOR'S TABLE. Blue Primroses and Polyanthuses {rom Ireland. — Mr. J. W. Brasier-Creagh, Creagh Castle, Doneraile, County Cork, sends some very fine flowers of blue Primroses in two shades of that colour. One, which is particularly charming, is a very large flower of rich blue with a well- deiined yellow eye, whUe the other is deep violet of a velvety texture. In addition, we were very pleased to find some good blue Polyanthuses, the best of their kind we have seen. Accompanying these interesting flowers were some wonderful St. Brigid Anemones, grown only as they can be grown in the moist and genial climate of the Emerald Isle. Daffodils from the same source comprised several seedlings, the best 212 THE GARDEN. [April 25, 1914. of which was a large bicolor trumpet variety named Pride of Munster. .AJthough not quite up to exhibition form, this should prove a good market flower. SOCIETI ES. THE FERTILISATION OF FRDIT TREES. A LECTtJKE of considerable importance to fniit-^rowcrs was recently given by Mr. G. 0. Shcrrard, from the John Innes Horticultural Institute. Mcrton. to the members of the Croydon and District Horticultural Mutual Improve- ment Society, at their rooms. Sunflower Temperance Hotel George Street. Crovdon, In practical experience of fruit-growing one finds failures in cropping some kinds, and it is often remarked that failure to set the fruit is owin" to climati" conditions, oftentimes frost, prevaihng when" the blossoms are developed. Perhaps in some seasons this explanation is correct, but it is now obvious to the scientist that there is another reason for the non- bearing of trees— the sterility of the variety^ Most noticeable is this in some varieties of Plums Cherries and Apples, and at the John Innes Horticultural Institute research is being made to detect varieties which are self-fertile and those which are self-sterile. In dis- tricts where perhaps a few varieties are grown, one often discovers a dearth in the crop, and it is in cases of this kind that the beneficial results accrue to the scientist s researches In the Plum family it is found that an equal number of varieties are self-fertile and self-stenle. and from experiments which Mr. Sherrard and Professor Bate- son who is the head of the John Innes HorticiUtural Institute, are carrying on, they are able to recrird the fertility and sterihtv of each variety, and also how the sterile trees may be made productive by cross-fertihsation. Some useful data shown by Mr. Sherrard by lantern slides proved extremely interesting, and gave the audience some idea of the elatiorate precautions one has to adopt to make true records of the different crossings. Perfect isolation of the tree must be adopted, and an insect-proof house was shown where many experiments were earned on Fruit trees are grown in pots, with the top of the pot covered with material tied round the base of the tree to prevent insects which may be hatched in the soil clunbmg up the stems. Another Ulustration was a \ictoria Plum tree in the open, encircled with muslin to exclude all insects and this experiment showed that without the aid of insects the blossom did not sot, A variety of Plum known as Wyedale, poUmated with its own pollen, was unproductive, but the introduction of poUen of another variety was conducive to a good crop. Mr. Sherrard informed the audience that many experunents similar to these have yet to be carried on, to show which varieties are favourable to each other in production. With Clierries the difficulty appears to be more pronounced, the number of self-fertile varieties hemg so few. In the Apple it is found that the introduction of poUen from another variety produces bigger fruit in a self-fertile variety, and the variety Lord Derby was shown as an example. Goose- berries are all seU-fertUe, but the pollen is sticky, and where these are grown near a bed of brighter-hued flowers it has been noticed that insects avoid the flower of the Gooseberry. It will be the privilege of this society to visit the home of these researches on June 10, and the awakened interest will be intensified when that evening outing is made. EAST ANGLIAN HORTICULTURAL CLUB. AT the April meeting of this club, presided over by Sir. John Clayton, there was a strong muster of members to hear Mr. George Herbert discourse upon Sweet Peas " Mr. Herbert, as all the Sweet Pea world knows, was for several years with Mr. Breadmore, but is now in the service of Hobbles, Limited, Dereham, Norfolk, who no doubt will be doing big things in Sweet Peas in the future Mr. Herbert detailed his initiation into enthusiasm for Sweet Peas and the way he had worked to bring about the notable varieties that bear his hall- mark He dealt largely with culture, diseases, preparing for exhibition and kindred subjects in a style that everyone was able to grasp. Following the remarks of Mr. Herbert came a very interesting discussion. Mr. Eobert Hohnes, Tuckswood, Norwich, himself a great authority and raiser of Sweet Peas, complimented Mr. Herbert upon the way he had dealt with the subject. Mr, T. Notley and Mr. F. Welby, two notable local growers, gave their views of the matter, as did many others. On the exhibition tables Sweet Pea blooms were placed from Hobbies in a fine assortment. The first Strawberries of the season were also staged— fine dishes of Royal Sovereign from several growers. BIRMINGHAM AND MIDLAND COUNTIES GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. " Of late years hardy border flowers are rapidly coming to the forefront." This was the opening remark of Mr. B Pugh of Messrs. J. Carter and Co , Kaynes Park, London, S.W., when giving a lecture on " Hardy Flowers from Seed for Town Gardens " on April 6 at a meetmg of the above association. The lecture, he said, was more in the capacity of a talk, in which he wished to give his audience many useful hints which might not be known to them before. Through the medium of numerous hand-painted slides he transported to the screen before them many exquisite photographs portraying several hardy border glories of past summers, a number of which had 'bsen grown in Messrs. Carter's world-famous trial grounds. Hardy border flowers from seed are best grown in boxes and transplanted when the seedlings become established, care being taken to guard against froat. The boxes should contain the poorest soil possible. To tills a little decayed Coco.tnut fibre inigrit be added in order to provide a germinating food for tlie plants. For protection in the border itself many devices could be adopted, such as placing a zinc ring an inch in height around delicate seedlings to exclude the slugs from them. One purpose of Mr. Lugh's selection of border flowers was to revive old features ; therefore he included not only the most up-to-date annuals and perennials, but several older favourites generally discarded of recent years — Antirrhinums, Everlasting Flowers, Ageratums, Car- nations, Dahlias, Canterbury Bells, Nemesias, Poppies, Nasturtiums, Phlox Drummondii, Scabious and Verbenas ; in fact, all herbaceous Ixirder plants would, he contended, flourish in either town or country areas, provided a liberal suppiv of lime and plenty of manure were given to them. Muria"te of potash applied to Clarkia and Balsams — absolute essentials for all borders — would be exceptionally beneficial, and an experiment in raising Dahlias from seed would amply reward the grower with good samples. At the conclusion questions were invited. Several were forthcoming from Messrs. Herbert, Palmer, "Webb, Smith, Parker and Ford. The vote of thanks proposed by Mr. Jones and seconded by Mr. Palmer was carried with much appreciation. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. Daffodil Show. The above society held its Daffodil Show at Vincent Square, Westminster, on April 15 and 16. The fine bank of Narcissi arranged by Messrs. Carter, Kaynes Park, attracted considerable attention, as mucli by reason of its naturalness as bv the effective floral display. Backed and occasionally "interspersed by flowering and evergreen shrubs, there was suggested the massed effect possible in the garden at this time, and certainly no other spring flower is capable of such good work. In this way one was impressed by the free masses of such fine things as Glory of Leiden, JIme. de Graaff, the red-eyed Firebrand, the semi-double Argent, Seagull, Queen Alexandra and the Poeticus-flowercd Hercules. Golden Rose (a rich yellow double-flowered incomparabilis) was also good. The low wall fronting the arrangement, and freely planted with alpines, contributed to the garden effect produced. Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, contributed a nice assortment of seedling Daffodils, representative of sell and bicolor Ajax forms, Poeticus, Leedsii and other sections. That numbered 194, a fine bicolor from Wear- dale, was of splendid proportions. Another very rich yellow was 215, a magnificent bit of colour and shapely withal. The fiowers were most daintily and effectively arranged. From Messrs. R. H. Bath, Lunited, Wisbech, came a very fine gathering of Daffodils, particularly noticeable being a handsome white flower with green base to the segments, a striking flower not yet named; Lady Superior (a glorious Barrii), White Pennant (virtually a Giant Leedsii), CrcEsus (a flower of unequalled excellence), and Lady Mayoress (also a Leedsii of giant form). The Rev. G. H. Engleheart, Dinton, Salisbury, in the annexe, showed, as usual, one of his unique sets of seedlings. They were here in plenty, rich in variety and beauty, of merit and distinction. That numbered 648, a rich golden yellow, is valuable for its lateness. The triandrus hybrids in the group were also a charming set, appealing both by their size and refinement. Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, W.C, arranged a formidable collection of choice Daffodils, seedlings and the leading commercial sorts being staged in abun- dance. Seedling 802, a golden yellow Ajax, is a magnificent thing, rich hi colour and great In size. Ruby, a red cup, is a shapely flower and a gem among the Barriis. St. Olaf (Leedsii) is a dainty flower. King Alfred. Lord Roberts, Blazing Star and Cassandra were all notable and good. Messrs. Barr also contributed alpines. Messrs. Waterer, Son, and Crisp, Twyford and Bagsliot, displayed Daffodils and flowering shrubs. Rhododendron Alice, 'a deep pink-flowered Pink Pearl, being conspicuous. The rock garden arrangement from the same firm con- tained masses of Primulas, Aubrietias, Mossy Saxifrages and the like. Messrs. H. B. May and Sons, Edmonton, arranged groups of Clematis, dwarf Rambler Roses, Calceolarias, and Tufted Pansies In pans. Mr. Clarence Elliott, Stevenage, contributed a rock group with such as Gentiana vema, Oxalis enneaphylla, Androsaec vlUosa, Arabis aubrietioides. Anemone robinsoni- ana and others. Messrs. WiUiam (Jutbush and Sons, Highgate, N., arranged Azaleas of the mollis and sinensis section, also Indian Azaleas in variety. Messrs. WiUs and Segar, South Kensington, displayed a fine strain of Cinerarias, Erica wilmoreana King Edward VII., with Stocks and Mignonette of a particularly good strain. Messrs. Whitelegg and Page, Chislehurst, had a very pretty rockwork arrangement, massmg such thmgs as Primula rosea, P. frondosa and P. denticulata in variety. Meconopsis intcgrifolia was very fine, also Daphne Cneorum, which was full of its rosy flower clusters. The double St. Brigid Anemones from Messrs. Reams- bottom and Co., Geashill, King's Coimty, Ireland, were, as usual, particularly flue, blue, pink, rose, scarlet, violet, flesh and other shades making a brilliant display. Mr. Alfred Dawkins, 40, King's Road, Chelsea, had a nice collection of Narcissi, White Queen, Albatross, Lord Roberts, Southern Star, Dubloon, Magpie, Lady Margaret Boscawen and Cardinal all being good. The Lissadell Plant and Bulb Farm, Sligo, had many good Daffodils, Weanlale Perfection, King Alfred, Flam- beau and Alannah t)eing all important and distinct. Judge Bird (bicolor) and Fin MacCumhal (of big Sir Watkin . form) were also excellent. • Robert Sydenham, Limited, Birmingham, had a capital collection of leading commercial sorts, Mme. de Qraaff, Vivid, White Lady and Wavercn's Giant being well represented. 5Ir. C. Engelmann had a good representa- tive lot of Carnations. Messrs. B. R. Cant, Colchester, followed with a good lot of Roses, of which Silver Queen (single, white). Lady Hlllingdon and Richmond were the best. In the group from Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin we noted Nightingale (a fine Poeticus), Morven (bicolor) and Scarlet Gem, all of which received awards of merit. Mr. Christopher Bourne, Bletehley, staged good vases of Evangehne, Lady Moore (a fine red cup), (Jueen of the West, Great Warley, Queen of Hearts (a brilliant-eyed flower), Mrs. Robert Sydenham and Buttercup in an excellent lot. Messrs. J. R. Pearson and Sons, Chilwell, had Lord Kitchener, Grey Mare, Great Warley, Lowdhdm Beauty (a superb Leedsii), Horace (a great Poeticus) and Orange Gem in a good lot. The group from Messrs. Walter T. Ware, Limited. Bath, was among the most telling in the show. King Led (an enormous bicolor, with green-backed segments). Queen of the West (rich golden) and Horace (Poeticus), the latter the finest we have seen of this class, were in magniflcent form. Macebearer, Embassy, ^Vhite Slave, "Wliite City, Roll C!all and Albatross were all fine. There were many splendid seedlings also in the group. Mr. W. A. Watts. St. Asaph, had a great massed bank of Daffodils, staging the more popular sorts in considerable numbers. The group was one of the most extensive in the show, but, owing to the method of naming, or rather lack of it, we are precluded from referring in detail to the varieties shown. CoMPExmvE Classes. In the competitive class for a collection of forty-eight varieties, three stems of each, Mr. A. JI. Wilson, Bridg- water, took the lead. His best flowers were Berseker, (rich yellow Ajax self), The Fawn (Leedsii), Lord Kitchener, Leontes, Crcesus (a fine red cup), Lancelot (Giant Leedsii), Buttercup (rich yellow), Cleopatra, Countess of Stamford (pure white Ajax), Bramblmg (a brilliant-cupped form) and Stmflower (a flat-cupped variety of distinction and merit). Mr. C. Bourne, Bletehley, was second in this class, having Cornelia, Lord Kitchener, Lord Roberts, Neptune, Bernardino, Judge Bird, J. T. Bennett-Po6, Duke of Lemster and Countess Grey among his best flowers. Mr. F. H. Chapman, Rye, was third, with a nice lot of fiowers inclusive of some good seedlings. In Class 2, for twelve long trumpet Daffodils, Sir. C. Bourne. Bletehley. was placed first. Golden King. White Emperor, Lord Roberts, Cleopatra, Mrs. G. H. Barr. Jlrs. Robert Sydenham and Conqueror (a fine pale bicolor) being the best. Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin, Kidder- minster, were second, Jlrs. E. M. Crosfleld (white Ajax), Ben Alder (a glorious big yellow) and Fort George (a bicolor with heavy flanged crown) being very flue. In Class 3, for tw-elve incomparabilis, Messrs. CartwTight and Goodwin took the lead, ha%ing Whitewell, Wonderland, Neptune, Great Warley, Pedestal and Marshlight among good flowers. Mr. C. Bourne, Bletehley, was second, Macebearer, Great Warley, Bernardino and Duke of Leinster being ah excellent. For twelve Barrii Daffodils, Mr. Bourne was in the premier place, CcBur de Lion, Southern Star, Cossack and Queen of Hearts being very fine. In this class Mr. F. H. Chapman, Rye, was second, having Little Tich and several good seedlings in a capita! lot of flowers. For nine Leedsii Daffodils, Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin led the way. Nemesis, Felstar, Thistle and Lemon Star being the best. Mr. W. A. Watts, St. Asaph, was second, his Seedling 229 bemg a distinct flower. For nme Daffodils selected from Di\isions V., VI. and VII., Messrs. CartwTight and Goodwm were first, Araby and Buttercup, both rich yellow, being very fine. In the class for six Poeticus Daffodils, Mr. F. H. Chapman, Rye, had a particularly nice lot, Ibis, Ditty, with Seed- lings 124, 120, 24 and 18, being very fine, the last- named of exceptionally good form. For six double Daffodils from Division X., Messrs. CartwTight and Goodwin, Kidderminster, were placed first. Sundown (scarlet and white), Tintoretto, Plenipo, Amphion, Royal Sovereign and Dubloon being his set. For a collection of twcnty-foiu- varieties (amateurs) representing the three main sections of the flower, Mr. N. Y. Lower, Presteign, Radnorshire, was adjudged first, having Noble, Horace, Lucifer, Giraffe, Olympia, Red Beacon Lord Roberts, Weardale Perfection and Cleopatra among good thUigs. The Rev. T. Buncombe, Black Torrington, was second. ^ „ For six long trumpet Daffodils the last-named gentle- man stood in the first place, Treasure Trove, King Alfred and Weardale Perfection being the best vases. The same exhibitor took!first prize tor six incomparabilis, his vases of Homespun and Gloria Mundi being very good. For tweh'e distinct Daffodils not in commerce, Mr. P D Williams, Lanarth, arranged some brilliant flowers. Unfortunately, the varieties were not named, save Wlute Wax. a fine white Ajax. For twelve seedling Daffodils not in commerce, raised by the exhibitor, Mr. A. M. Wilson, Shovell, Bridgwater, was first with a wonderful lot of fiowers, his 424, of Englehcartii form and crowTi, bemg of a uniform apricot shadi throughout. It is a delicate and beautiful flower. Aincel, a chaste flower of wiiite with picotee edge of pale oranj;", was also choice and good. ,.«>4e^ GARDENS -^^=^*«#^' No. 2215.— Vol. LXXVIII. May 2, 1914. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Tulips after Flowering. — When the choicer varieties go out of bloom, they should have the flower-spikes partly cut back, as if allowed to form seed this would undoubtedly weaken the bulb. The bulbs should not, however, be lifted until the foliage is ripened, after which they may be taken up, cleaned, and spread out on a mat in a sunny position to ripen. Dwarf Brooms for the Rock Garden. — Many rock gardens will be looking attractive just now, and certainly more interesting, where some of the dwarf Brooms are accommodated. Cytisus Ardoiiiii, C. Beanii and C. kewensis, which are now giving their wealth of yellow blossom, are some of the best, and are making a grand display either growing on a ledge or hanging over some of the larger rocks. If it is desirous of keeping them in a compact state, the growths should be thinned directly after flowering. Staking Herbaceous Plants. — Many early flowering plants will now require staking, and it is important that this work should be done early, for if the plants are allowed to assume a straggling habit, it is a difficult matter to make them look quite natural. Before the stakes are placed in position it is necessary to thin the shoots of such plants as Asters ; and, in fact, most herbaceous plants will benefit by a careful thinning of the shoots before the plants are tied up. The flower- stems of Eremurus should receive support as early as possible. Pyrethrums will also require early attention, or the stems may soon become broken down by heavy rain. Hybrid Barberton Daisies.— The beau- tiful hybrid Gerberas were raised a few years ago by crossing the well-known Gerbera Janiesonii first with G. viridifolia, and the offspring of this with G. St. Michael, the latter being a yellow form of G. Jamesonii. Since then, by selecting and intercrossing, a wonderful variety of brilliant and pleasing shades of colour have been obtained, from white to pink, many shades of yellow, orange, simset, on to deep rich purple. A group of charming plants grown in pots will be,, found of great value for decorating the conservatory at the present time. They are of easy cultivation, and deserve to be grown more than they are, as they continue to flower well on into the summer. In some parts of France they are grown on an extensive scale in the open for market purposes. The credit for this beautiful class of plants is due to Mr. R. 1. Lynch, M.A., of the Botanic Garden, these Cambridge, who did much to bring them to such : shade of red, and when kissed by the morning sun perfection. They are grown wonderfully well there and are at present much admired. Cottages for Workmen at Wisley. — We under- stand that the Council of the Royal Horticultural Society intend erecting some cottages for their workmen at Wisley. We hope that, while fully bearing in mind the practical side of these, the Council will also see to it that in appearance the cottages will be in keeping with the beautiful is far prettier than the garish colours of such a Tulip as Keizerskroon, which seems to be the only one grown in most suburban gardens. There are many other Roses the foliage of which is most charming just now, notably Marquise de Sinety, Shower of Gold and American Pillar. This phase of our national flower ought not to be lost sight of. The Pasque-FIower (Anemone Pulsatilla). — This is beyond doubt one of the most charming of all our native flowers. It is not a common British plant ; indeed, it is considered rare. When found growing wild it is usually in a rather dry position over a chalky soil, such as on the chalk 'downs of Berkshire, where it has occasionally been found. The leaves and flowers are beautiful at all stages of their growth. The flowers are pale violet, downy on the outside, and surrounded by pretty collarettes of feathery green. Therr are many garden varieties, of which alba the one illustrated, is one of the most beautiful of spring flowers. The Midland Daffodil Society's Show.— The annual show was held at the Botanic Gardens, Edgbaston, Birmingham, on Thurs- day and Friday of last week. The show, which is reported on another page, once again proved a great success, and there was a representative gathering of Daffodil ex- perts from all parts of the British Isles. One figure, however, was sadly missed, namely, the late Robert Sydenham, who had always entered so heartily into the success of this great exhibition. Out of respect for his memory the annual dinner was not held on this occasion. At a meeting held in the evening of the first day of the show, it was agreed that the dinner should be held in future Planting Flower-Beds.— Now that we are close on the season for bedding out, it is a good time to direct attention to a very common mistake. This is the raising of the surface of the beds so far above the level of the surrounding ground that it is impossible to keep the soil properly sylvan surroundings. We commend to their , watered. Not only is it seen in villa gardens notice the excellent designs published in Country I and such places where the experience of the Litel&st week, the result of a National Competition gardener may not be great, but in more pretentious arranged by the Proprietors, These are of the gardens, and even in some of the public parks greatest interest at a time when the housing this error is often made. If the soil is raised up problem is such a serious one. , like that of a grave, it often proves to be a grave WHITE VARIETY OF THE PASQUE ANEMONE PULSATILLA ALBA. FLOWER Beautiful Rose Foliage.— During the last few days we have derived a great deal of pleasure from a small hedge of that grand Rose Griiss an Teplitz. The foliage of this is a beautiful warm for some of the more delicate plants. Ample supplies of water may be poured on the bed, but most of it runs off, and the poor plants are practically starved in the midst of plenty. 214 THE GARDEN. [May 2, 1914. CORRESPONDENCE. {The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents.) The Japanese Plums in Canada. — The state- ment made by your correspondent Mr. Bimyard in his letter, published in The Garden of March 14 last, that the Japanese Plums, such as Abundance, Burbank, &c., are too tender for the climate of England, greatly surprises us in Canada, who have been growing them, without any evidence of tenderness, for many years quite unprotected, where the temperature sometimes goes to 30° below zero. I have always foimd them to be quite as little injuriously affected by cold as the European Plums. — Canadian, London, Canada. The Hardiest Grevilleas. — In the extreme west of the country, a great many Grevilleas, as well as other Australian plants, are regarded as hardy shrubs. Throughout the greater part of England, however, most of them may be looked upon only as greenhouse plants, though a couple at least are fairly hardy in the neighbourhood of London. These are Grevillea rosmaiinifolia, in which the foliage is by no means unlike that of the Rosemary, while its clusters of curiously shaped flowers are borne in great profusion. The second species, G. sulphurea, has dark green. a recognition of similar work done for the flower, and is held by the recipient for one year. In 191 2 it was awarded to the Rev. G. H. Engleheart ; in 1913 to Mr. P, R. Barr. This year (1914) the recipient is Mr. E. M. Crosfield. He is one of our greatest seedling raisers and a great cultivator. .As a showman he has no superior. Few, if any, are the great prizes at Birmingham or in London which he has not won at one time or another. Countess of Stamford, Empire, Ring Dove, Anchorite, Mowgli and Honey Maid are sufficient examples wherewith to illustrate the cathohcity of his efforts in hybridising. The choice of the Royal Horticultural Society of this year's holder of the blue ribbon of the Daffodil world is very popular. If he does not talk, Mr. Crosfield works — works hard, shrinks from nothing, even changes his home — for the sake of the flower which he has made his own. I know I express the feelings of all his friends when I wish Mrs. Crosfield and himself length of days, enjoyment and continuous successful endeavours in their new home on the Wye, whither they and their Daffodils flit this summer in their quest of suitable environments. — Joseph Jacob. A White Sport of Saxifraga Boydii.— The statement by M. E. Heinrich, Bavaria, on page 155, that he has a white sport of the beautiful Saxifraga Boydii is most interesting, and more interesting still if in' course of time it proves to be identical A SUGGESTED ARRANGEMENT FOR A SMALL BORDER OF HARDY ANNUALS, THE WHOLE TO BE CARPETED WITH DWARF WHITE ALYSSUM. needle-shaped leaves and yellow flowers. Both are decidedly interesting and ornamental evergreen shrubs.— H. P. A Border of Hardy Annuals. — These plants are now so popular and their merits so generally recognised that further introduction seems im- necessary. The accompanying small sketch has been prepared to indicate how the seed may be sown broadcast, so as to avoid the straight line and formal block system. No pure white clumps have been introduced because of the ground- work being white. Where such a plan commends itself, there may be a desire to duplicate some favourite varieties, which, of course, can easily be done by eliminating some of those mentioned. In the case of sowing a very long border, the whole or part of this design could be repeated, if so wished, and in the event of so doing I would suggest cream, pale blue, or lilac to follow on the yellow shades. Arrange, if possible, for the border to be get-at-able from back and front, while very wide borders should also have stepping places or a narrow walk so as io facilitate the work of sowing, thinning and staking. — C. Turner, Ken View Garden, Highgale. The Barr Cup for Daffodils.— The Barr Cup, which commemorates the great work of the late Peter Barr on behalf of the Daffodil, is awarded annually bv tin' Royal Horticultural Society as in habit with the more vigorous-growing S. Boydii alba. The interest in the case centres chiefly in the fact that the raiser of S. Boydii first distinctly stated that this queen of yellow Saxifrages resulted from two white-flowered sorts — I believe, speaking from memory, burseriana and rocheliana — and it was not till the plant flowered at Kew some years later that the now generally accepted parentage of burseriana x aretioides was suggested. Subsequently, when the late Mr. Dewar, then hardy plant foreman at Kew, wrote the text to accompany the coloured plate of "S. Boydii in The Garden, he made the statement — which, I believe, I have committed to memory aright — that S. Boydii alba " was obviously of the same parentage." Now, no two forms are more distinct than S. Boydii and S. B. alba, and why Mr. Dewar should have written " obviously " when the thing was not, and is not, obvious 1 do not know. The last named is not only distinct in colour and in the substance of its flowers from S. Boydii ; it is distinct in stature, and remarkably so in its vigorous habit of growth and genial nature. In S. Boydii alba there is nothing to suggest either burseriana or aretioides influence, though much to suggest such a combination as burseriana and rocheliana' — so much so, indeed, that I have repeatedly wondered whether the raiser had confused them in his mind. In dn\ I'ase, the white-flowered biu'seriana would appear to have entered into both, and a sport or reversion to one of the originals is by no means imusual. What is imusual, which makes the case cited by M. Heinrich doubly interesting, is that he appears to possess not merely a colour sport, but a growth sport or reversion also, which, if presently substantiated, should lend colour to Mr. Boyd's original statement that his unique plant resulted from two white-flowered sorts. What I am curious to know is what this white sport " reported to The Garden more than fifteen years ago " has been doing with itself all that time ? It would appear not to have been the sporting of a solitary rosette, which might have become crowded out ; hence my curiosity. Anyway, I sincerely hope M. Heinrich will get more of these white- flowered variations, and I trust he will let the readers of The Garden know about them. In conclusion, I cannot but con- gratulate your correspondent upon possessing a tuft of S. Boydii large enough to make 250 plants. How many such, I wonder, have ever existed ? — E. H. Jenkins. Daffodils with Good Lasting Qualities. — In last week's issue, page 202, a correspondent asks for a list of some of the best lasters in pots. Of these i think Queen of Spain easily comes first. Of course, it is not large or showy, but makes a delightful little pot plant, and the blooms last a wonderful time. W. P. Milner, another small flower, is also a tough little fellow which outlasts many of his larger brethren. Obvallaris is another. Maximus is xety good, though not very free- flowering. King Alfred is another fine laster, though dear at present for pot work. Blackwell is a very good pot plant, and stands longer than many. Emperor lasts as well as most, but to my mind is rather big for house work. I daresay your correspondent has noticed that the early varieties last longer as a general rule than the later ones. This is on account of the cooler atmosphere of the room (at any rate at night) and a less powerful sun. No doubt pulling down the blind during the sunniest part of the day would prolong the life of the flowers, but if overdone the plants would become too tall. When grown outside, Lucifer is a wonderftil Daffodil to stand as a cut flower, although it looks frail. Nearly all white trumpet Daffodils are quickly over, and the Leedsii are not as a rule very good. — J. Duncan Pkarson, Lowdhatn, Notts. I cannot say that I have ever made any exact trial of the difierent lasting properties of Daffodils in pots, but it rather surprises me to hear " M. E. E.'s " experience with Mme. Plemp and Victoria. Speaking without a book, I should have said the latter would be the longer laster, and it has occurred to me that the box in which they were grown might possibly account for it. Lucifer, although it does not look as if it would be, is a marvellous laster. I doubt if there is any to beat it. King Alfred and Blackwell are two more which have the same good property. Of the cheaper kinds 1 would suggest Homer, Seagull, Fairy Queen and .Argent. " M. E. E." is right about Prince of Austria as being a superb Tulip and a splendid laster. Jenny, Cerise Gris-de-lin, 'Vermilion Brilliant, Arms of Leiden and the very new De Wet are some that are worth a trial, and which I think will be found to give satisfaction. If a double is wanted, nothing is much better than the old Murilln. — J. J- May 2, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 215 Ctaionodoxas Improving when Established.— l^ressure ol other matters lias prevented ine Irora stating that during the many years in which I have cultivated the Glories of the Snow, my experience has been that they have improved considerably after being planted. In many cases newly imported bulbs have done but poorly for the first year or two, and have greatly improved afterwards. They love deep planting, as a rule, and in some cases it appears to take a few years before they reach their proper depth, which they often do by means of " droppers," as do some other bulbs. Bulbs for Spring Planting.— Mr. Jenkins (page 191, April 18) has drawn attention to what I said in including among bulbs for spring planting the Belladonna Lilies and Alstrceraerias. The article was not intended as one for universal treatment of the bulbs men- tioned, but was written for those who wished to add to the bulbs they already liad sorne others not in their possession, and which might be planted in spring. So carefully do many bulb dealers keep their bulbs now that they can be planted later than formerly, when they had frequently made a great deal of growth before spring arrived. The Belladonna Lilies can often be obtained in quite good condition for planting m the middle of March, and so can the Alstroemerias. The dealers who issue catalogues of bulbs for spring planting include these, and can, and do, supply them in good condition for planting. Personally, I prefer earlier planting, but very fre- quently with late-ripening bulbs the weather is too severe for planting if they arrive in good time, and I have often found it well into March before they could be entrusted to Mother Earth. As sound general practice, I always recommend planting most bulbs as soon as they can be obtained, but they are often wonderfully accommodat- ing. I frequently plant Alstroemerias very late through choice. — S. Arnott. Fungus Disease on Chionodoza.— Last year I noticed that one plant of a small colony of- Chionodoxa sardensis was undersized and looking generally unhealthy. A closer inspection showed tlie anthers to be filled with a quantity of purplish dust-like spores, similar to those frequently seen in the anthers of Silene cucubalus and allied plants. I submitted the diseased spray to Mr. Carleton Rea, hon. secretary of the British Mycological Society, who iden- tified it as Ustilago Vaillantii (Tul). Apparently this is the first record of the fungus appearing in Britain. 1 think it is very likely to have been overlooked in other gardens, and it would be very interesting to hear of its occurrence elsewhere and if it confines its attacks to the genus Chionodoxa. This year 1 find two more plants in my little patch are infected, in spite of immediate removal of the diseased flowers last year. The mycelium is probably perennial in the bulb, and I should be glad to know if there is any way of preventing its spreading other than by burning the infected plants. I have a good patch of C. Lucilia; growing a few yards away, as well as Scilla bifolia and S. sibirica, but so far these are untouched by the Ustilago. — Norman G. Hadden, St. Audreys, Malvern. ITlu- fungus Ustilago Vaillantii is not new to Kngland, though it is not often noticed. It was first recorded in "Grevillea" in 1893, when it occurred in England and in Ireland, but had been noticed in England six or seven years before that. It attacks Scilla bifolia, S. raaritima and possibly some other species of Scilla, some of the Muscaris and the Chionodoxas, being perhaps most frequently seen in C. sardensis. We have had it in our own garden, and have seen it several times from others. You are quite right in thinking the mycelium to be perennial in the bulbs. The bulb base is filled with it, but we do not think it is liable to spread to other plants. Like most of the smuts with loose spores, in all probability the young developing seeds are attacked before they leave the fruit, and then all through SAXIFRAGA AND fTS BURSERIANA VARIETIES. c NEW HYBRID TEA ROSE; PRINCE CHARMING, SHOWN BY MESSRS. HUGH DICKSON AT THE SPRING ROSE SHOW IN LONDON LAST WEEK. their life the fungus will manifest itself in their flowers. It is, therefore, safer to remove the affected plants as soon as they are seen, so as to reduce the danger of young seedling plants being attacked. — Ed. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. May 5, — Royal Horticultural Society's Exhi- bition and National Tulip Society's Show. Lecture at 3 p.m. on " The Value to Gardens of Some of Mr. Wilson's Introductions from China." Scottish Horticultural Association's Meeting. May 7.. — -Linnean Society's Meeting. May II. — United Horticultural Benefit and Provident Society's Committee Meeting. AN those of your correspondents who doubt the distinctness of the forms of Burser's Saxifrage be possessed of the best commercial varieties of this imique species ? This is a question which naturally forces itself to the front, since, if the varieties of this plant are not as distinct as " chalk from cheese," they are certainly as distinct as many so-called species, and equally so for garden purposes. Some of your correspondents refer to the " type," not knowing, perhaps, that the type of to-day is a glorified form of that which did duty for it in former years. The plant that I knew as S. burseriana for nearly thirty years was- of a very tufted, cushion- like habit, the small, creamy white flowers set on inch-high peduncles. To-day the type as exhibited is a vastly superior plant, with whiter and larger flowers, longer peduncles, and more glaucous. Beside it the old plant is not worth growing. The first great break away was sent to the late Mr. Selfe Leonard as the type from " a new locality." This proved to be the true major variety, which I always class as the aristocrat of the lot. This is characterised by large, sparkling white flowers, the slightly crimped petals having crenated margins. It is almost, if not quite, miique in its meadow-sweet-like fragrance. The habit of the plant, too, is distinct, in that it spreads laterally and does not tuft. The rosettes, too, are large in proportion to the flowers. That recently shown as crenata is in the same way in some respects, but is not so good. Gloria has considerably larger flowers than major, but they are flimsy in texture by com- parison and dead white, minus the glistening sparkling surface, which is one of major's greatest charms. Then, of course, Gloria has a decidedly and densely cushioned tuft. In size the latter is only equalled or surpassed by magna, which has yet to come to the front. It is also of cushion-like growth. Speciosa has the smallest rosettes of leaves, and is the latest to flower. Reference has also been made to tridentata, but the name is a mis- nomer. Whoever saw a Burser's Saxi- frage with a thrice-parted leaf or Its correct name is tridentina, which it takes from the Tridentine Valley, in which it is found. It is a good and useful form, virtually a tufted major. Unfortunately, much confusion has been brought into being by the thoughtless use of such names as major, grandiflora and the like being applied to any slightly larger form. It must not be forgotten, however, that Burser's Saxifrage is an exceedingly variable plant — variable in size of flower, flower qualit}', stature, tufted or spreading habit, and time of flowering. Does anyone wish for more than these ? Then, more than one reference has been made to disbudding. But how can a plant characterised by one-flowered peduncles be disbudded at all ? E. H. J. petal ? 21-6 THE GARDEN. [May 2, 1914. SOME BEAUTIFUL POPPY- WORTS. THE MECONOPSES. WHILE it is exceedingly improbable that this somewhat fastidious genus of Poppyworts will ever yield anything more surpass- ingly beautiful and imposing than the blue - flowered M. Wallichii, there is not the least doubt that the introductions of recent years, while imparting variety and furthering interest in more than one department of hardy plant gardening, have done much to increase the popularity of the group as a whole. In this connection, doubtless, no species has played so important a part as M. integrifolia, discovered a few years ago by Mr. E. H. Wilson when plant-hunting for Messrs. Veitch in the high mountain borderland of China and Thibet. It was a great — indeed, unique — find, while its importance to gardens — albeit it is not grown by everyone with success — cannot well be over- again in the hope that sooner or later we shall discover the secret of their special needs and lift the veil from their apparently insatiable desires. To the precise conditions prevailing in their mountain home not a few alpines, judged by their success in lowland gardens, would appear more or less indifferent, absence of high altitudes, snow and a protracted definite resting period affecting them but little. So much, I fear, cannot be advanced with respect to all the species of Meconopsis, M. integrifolia, for example, in some instances apparently influenced by the long-continued mildness and growing con- ditions of recent autumns, having shown a desire to flower close upon the ground at that season. It has been so here in the humid Thames Valley practically at sea-level, in the breezier district of Sheffield bordering on the moors 700 feet above the sea, and doubtless in other places, and, of course, these precocious ones are never of use again. Happily, so far, it is not a large propor- tion of any batch which flower thus early, and were it otherwise, tantalising though it would be, it would have to be endured, seeing it is impossible no attempt should be made to cultivate it imder glass, a pernicious system destined to rob the plant of its finer colour attributes and mar the general effect. As is common with all plants raised from seeds, variations both of leaf colour and form occur among these Meconopses, with, in some instances, slight colour deterioration. The worst offender that I have known in this respect is M. racemosa, some of the shades of colour being positively vile. What the progeny of such would be would not be easy to predict. To save seeds from the best of them in order to perpetuate the good remaining is the natural recommendation in such a case, though it would be not less interesting or instructive did someone raise a generation or two of these retrogrades in order to ascertain what latent influence there still remained. In the cross- breeding of certain types of florists' flowers it is well known that in the first generation seedlings of a retrograde character are the rule, the superior flowers following from these retrogrades a genera- tion later. One wonders whether some irLfluence akin lies hidden in the inner recesses of some of these Poppyworts. The point is certainly worth deciding. E. H. Jenkins. {To be continued.) DAFFODIL NOTES. THE ROYAL HORTICUL- TURAL SOCIETY'S 1914 SHOW. F TULIPA STELLATA, A BEAUTIFUL LITTLE SPECIES WITH YELLOW AND RED FLOWERS. THIS AN AWARD OF MERIT WHEN SHOWN BY MESSRS. BARR AND SONS IN LONDON LAST estimated. Prior to its coming there was nothing like it, and since that time no species has been introduced to equal it. In my opinion, we have within the limits of these twain, whether regarded from the stand- points of imposing grandeur or flower beauty, the pick of the whole genus. They rank high in the estimation of all gardeners who know their worth. Nor does one's love or appreciation diminish one iota because of the difficulties sur- rounding their cultivation, or because failure, either partial or complete, characterises our efforts concerning them. Rather are we in admiration drawn nearer to them, trying them again and to prevent it. At the same time a number of plants so flowering militates against the good effect that might have been in other circumstances. To some extent this inclmation to premature flowering may also be due to a check — a standstill condition it may bs — during dry weather ; and seeing that these plants are moisture-loving by nature, care should be exercised that they do not suffer from lack of it at any time during the developing season of the rosettes. Doubtless we have much yet to leam of the likes and dislikes of this fine plant, for which at its best no praise is too great. Not the least of its merits is that of complete hardiness ; hence OR the third time of asking the Royal Horti- cultural Society has had a Daffodil show in the large hall in Vincent Square. There is no impediment that 1 can see in the way of this being the start of a long series of annual exhibitions. That which is now under review was full of encouragement. Never have I seen the hall so full of Daffodils. The trade response was grand. The competitive classes attracted more entries than on either of the two previous occasions. Altogether it was a Daffodil show the like of which has never been seen in London before. Yet some of us must have been conscious all the time of there being something wanting. We sadly missed the magnificent trumpet exhibit of Mr. E. H. Krelage and the superb exhibits of Mr. E. M. Crosfield. What a lot salmon-fishing will have to answer for ! 1 do not mind it taking the Foreign Secretary from the House of Commons, but it is a different matter when it keeps a ., Crosfield from our great annual show. ■ And then, poor Miss Currey was an absentee. ■! Owing to ill health her choice and valuable collec- tion had to be dispersed last autumn. Never again will there be a Lismore exhibit with its characteristic display of bright red eyes and refined white trumpets. To see " Tommy " Jones busying about brought back memories of the past, for it was he who in later years always arranged her blooms. The distinguishing features of the show were, first, the number of trade exhibits. Two — those RECEIVED WEEK. May 2, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 217 of Messrs. Barr and Sons and Messrs. J. Carter and Co. — received the very exceptional honour of gold medals. The rewards were the same, but the displays were totally different. Barrs had a more or less conventional group, with a centre full of seedlings and choice varieties in small quantities or as single blooms, while on either side were large vases of the cheaper and more plentiful ones. Carters gave us a sample of Daffodils in masses under trees. Some may scoff at such efforts and talk in Robinsonian lingo of the artificiality that must necessarily be theirs ; but I see in these stiff masses an educational purpose which it is impossible to achieve in any other way in the limitations of an exhi- bition hall, namely, the general effect of the different kinds when planted in a mass. Suttons de- parted from anything I have ever seen them do, inasmuch as their small, artistically arranged group was composed entirely of their own seedlings. Mr. Watts of St. Asaph filled a large space against the wall im- mediately on the right of the entrance door. He had many new seedlings of his own raising, together with large masses of some of the best trade varieties. I mention this group because I instinctively couple it with the many flowers, of which a very large proportion must have been seedlings, that he exhibited in the competitive classes. For some years we have seen this gentleman's "home-made" blooms in London, Birmingham and else- where ; but the time seems to have now arrived when he is able to exhibit them " on a grand scale." It is hardly necessary for me to speak of the increased interest that this will give. In former notes I have spoken of the efforts of Mr. Bourne to get away from the " formal and bank-like arrangement of groups hitherto adopted." His exhibit marked the high water of his endeavours, and his display called forth many remarks of appreciation. Its general plan was as follows : A brown velvet curtain at the back, with green covering for the top of the staging and the tiered half circles, which gave it its most distinguishing features. Next in order to the trade exhibits, which both because of their number and their quality mark off the London show from all others, I would like to deal with the competition in the second and third sections of the schedule. It was good. Only in one class out of twenty-four was there no entry, while in all but two there was some competition, culminating in no fewer than six collections being staged in Class 55 for thirty-six varieties. I have taken some pains to make a little inventory of all the varieties in the amateur and novice classes that gained first and second prizes, and in the large one just mentioned (Class 55) of the third prize collection also. In these twenty-four classes there were 173 varieties distributed among the above prize-winners. Of times : Weardale Perfection. Nine times : Lady Margaret Boscawen. Seven times : Noble and King Alfred. Six times : Lord Roberts, Homer, Argent and Horace. Five times : Evangeline, Mme. de Graaff, Orangeman and Homespun. Four times : Bernardino, Incognita, Golden Rose, Florence Pearson, Glory of Noordwijk, Seagull, Virgil and Lucifer. Three times : Ptar- migan, Cassandra, The Colonel, Harold Finn, AN ANNUAL FOR SANDY SO I L. THE PORTULACA. There are many amateurs who have to contend with a very light, sandy soil, which in hot seasons seems to dry up in almost no time, and so causes endless labour with the watering-can. Ground White Queen, Bennett-Poe, Queen of .Spain, White like this can, of course, be greatly improved by Lady, Lowdham Beauty, Diana, Whitewell, a liberal addition of heavy clay or loam and cow- Pilgrim, Beacon, Sunrise, Solfatare, Plenipo, I manure ; but if the garden is of any size, this Chryseis, Gloria Mundi and van Waveren's Giant, i works out very expensive, and consequently A MAGNIFICENT GROUP OF MECONOPSIS INXEGRIFOLIA IN THE GARDENS OF MR. W. A. MILNER, TOTLEY HALL, SHEFFIELD. Twice : Sulphur Phoenix, Elvira, Barrii con- spicuus, Mrs. H. J. Veitch, Torch, Monarch, Waterwitch, Candidata, Vivid, Royalty, Albatross, Dorothy Kingsmill, Giraffe, Olympia, Armorel. Mrs. R. Sydenham, Bullfinch, Branston, Marguerite Durand, Phyllis, Sidney, Dante, Ideal, Lemon Queen, Castile and Barcarolle. The last feature that I have room to touch upon (I am leaving details of the more important novelties till my next) is the record number of varieties that were placed before the Narcissus committee for awards. I did not count them, but I have been told there were more than fifty. Anyhow, they were so many that a special sub- committee was appointed to do some weeding out. Eight plants gained awards, viz., Lady Superior, a white-perianthed Barrii ; Nightingale, a well-formed early Poet ; Scarlet Gem, a brilliant red-eyed Poetaz with yellow perianth ; Golden Sceptre, a Jonquilla hybrid, figured in the r9i3 " Daffodil Year Book " as Marigold ; Morven, a pale bicolor Ajax ; Princess Juliana, a deep yellow Ajax with a boldly edged trumpet ; Southern Gem, a pale Giant Leedsii ; and Admiration, a tall, striking yellow and red Poetaz. Of these awards, that of Admiration was for the garden and that of Southern Gem for the garden these, only sixty-five were staged more than once , and cutting, while the remainder were for show. The and thirty-nine more than twice. As statistics prizewinners in the various classes were dealt with similar to what 1 have got out seem generally popular, I feel I cannot do better than publish in the report that was published last week. In a subsequent issue the novelties at the Birmingham the results of my census in detail. Shown ten \ show will receive attention. Joseph Jacok. in most places only a small portion can be done at a time. Now, although most kinds of plants delight in a medium loam, there are a few which thrive well in that of a very light nature, and the Portu- iacas are one of these. They are dwarf-growing little subjects, eminently suited for rockeries or for edgings, and are best sown in the open border where they are intended to bloom ; but, being half-hardy annuals, they must not be put in until all danger of frost is over and the weather appears settled. The latter half of May is about the best time, and a position ~^u!ly exposed to the sun must be allotted them. Sow the seed thinly in rows about six inches apart, so that the surface soil can be easily stirred and weeds kept down. Should the summer prove excep- tionally hot and dry, watering might become necessary ; but it is very doubtful, as the hotter the sun the more brilliant will be the display of flowers. Any amateurs who have very light soils would do well to give this splendid little plant a trial, as the sandier the soil the better it will flourish, and during the whole season it demands practically no attention at the hands of the culti- vator. Seed can be obtained of both double and single varieties, and can be had in the following separate colours — crimson, yellow, and white ; but I think the mixed is preferable to the separate shades, as it gives such an endless variety, which all blend so well together. Troon, Ayrshire. G. B. W. 218 THE GARDEN. [May 2, 1914. GARDEN VARIETIES ABUTILON. OF T , HERE are few, if any, greenhouse climbers more continuous flowering than the Abutiions, as they will com- mence to bloom from the spring and continue till autumn is well advanced, while if a temperature of 50° to 60° be maintained, they will flower even later than that. What is more, they are available for other purposes besides roof and rafter plants, for neat bushy specimens from 18 inches to a yard or even more in height are exceedingly useful for greenhouse decoration. If struck from young growing shoots in the spring, they will form effec- tive little plants in 6-inch pots towards the end of the summer, and are then particularly valuable for the sake of variety. Another way of treating .\bu- tilons is to grow them as standards, and in this manner they are. from the pendulous nature of their blossoms, seen to considerable advantage. In this way they are particularly valuable for grouping in the greenhouse or conservatory. The cultural require- ments of the Abutilons are not at all exacting, as they will thrive in ordinary potting compost. It is, however, as well to bear in mind that they are fairly liberal feeders, and if at all starved at the roots, some of the leaves are sure to turn yellow and drop. The great variety that we have now in the garden forms of Abutilon would seem to have originated in the pure white Boule de Neige, which, though sent out as long ago as 1872, is still one of the very best of that tint. It was sent out by M. Lemoine et Fils of Nancy, and though that firm, with their well- kno%vn courtesy, endeavoured, for my information, to trace its origin, they were unable to do so. The advent of a white-flowered form iled to the possibility of pink 01 rose coloured kinds, and in due course the variety rosaeflorum made ts appearance. Although I am not aware of its origin, there is but little doubt it was the result of a cross between Boule de Neige and the orange red A. Darwinii, a native of BrarU. That the union of these two tints should result in the production of pink flowers is somewhat singular, but a parallel case is to be foimd in Rhododendron Princess Royal, which was obtained by crossing the white-flowered R. jasminiflorum and the orange red R. javanicum. Another instance is furnished by Begonia weltoni- ensis, a pink flower whose parents were B. Dregei, with white blossoms, and B. Sutherlandii, in which they are a kind of coppery yellow. Once Abutilons of these distinct colours were obtained, others some of the purplish tints being very striking. The raising of Abutilons from seeds is very interesting, especially if the crossing is carried out in a systematic manner. Plants from seed sown early in the spring will flower the same year, but in the case of any doubt as to the quality of a particular individual, it mil be policy to flower it a second season. Of well-recognised varieties it will be hard to beat Boule de Neige (white). Golden Fleece (yellow), Sanglant (deep red), Anna Crozy (purplish). Royal Scarlet (light scarlet) and ros«- florum (rose). Some of the newer varieties, %vith large, shallow, widely opened flowers, are less pendulous than the older kinds, and by no means as HARDY PERENNIALS IN SMALL GARDENS. I AURICULA GORDON DOUGLAS. A BEAUTIFUL NEW VARIETY WITH RICH YELLOW AND BRONZE FLOWERS. graceful. While the above remarks apply to the Abutilon as a flowering subject, there are some remarkable for their handsome leafage, and for this reason alone they are extensively grown. Chief among these are Savitzii, whose leaves are clearly variegated with white ; Souvenir du Bonn, a more vigorous grower with less variegation : and Thompsonii, the foliage of which is mottled with gold. The variegated-leaved variety of A. mega- followed suit, and numerous varieties were quicldy j potamicum or vexillarium is also very striking, put into commerce. Several Continental raisers ■ while of the original species, A. striatum, whose took them in hand, and in this country the late 1 rich yellow flowers are veined with crimson, affords Mr. George of Putney raised many beautiful lands, ' a pleasing variety. H. P. T is frequently somewhat glibly stated that herbaceous plants will yield a constant and plentiful supply of flowers from spring to autumn, and certainly this is true, provided one has an extensive garden devoted to a thoroughly representative collection, cultivated with skill and painstaking care ; but it has to be admitted that often in a small garden we see herbaceous borders which are but intermittently gay, and sometimes for weeks on end are almost bare of bloom. In many an impulsive de- nunciation of formal bedding we have been told that Paeonies, Irises, Delphiniums or Phloxes are beyond comparison with Geraniums, Calceo- larias and Lobelia ; but if the centre bed of a small garden is given over to either of these sub- jects, the result in the long run is apt to be disappointing. The Paeonies are gay for a fortnight or three weeks, and more or less untidy and dull for the rest of the year, and the same drawback applies to the other subjects quoted. Even in a mixed border of small dimensions there is a risk of frequent gaps and scarcity of flowers that in time palls on one. and, maybe, leads to a return to orthodox bedding. By the exercise of forethought and judgment, however, it is possible to realise one's ambitions for a continuous display of colour and beauty, even in a restricted area, by the use of hardy perennials alone, and with this end in view no plan is so entirely satisfactorj' as that of carpeting the ground with some low-growing subject, thinly interspersing plants of taller, erect habit to flower at difierent periods. For instance, a bed may be carpeted with the rosy-flowered Saponaria ocymoides or Dianthus deltoides, and over the surface of the bed plants of Delphiniums may be thinly distributed. Between these some bulbs of Galtonia candi- cans or some hybrid Gladioli may be planted, and the result of such a combination of tall plants with a carpet of close - growing subjects will be that the bed is never bare, but always attractive. Veronica rupestris, Cerastium and CEnothera missouriensis are other suitable subjects for carpeting, and we may have Camassias, Montbretias, Liliums or Liatris pycnostachya for companions to any of these plants. A charming little plant for bedding is Chasno- stoma hispida, forming compact little bushes less than a foot high, clothed with a mass of starry white flowers. The plant blooms incessantly, and if some such thing as Lobelia fulgens or Chelone barbatus is planted at intervals in the bed, the charm of both subjects is enhanred by the companionship. Biebersteinii May 2, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 219 Dwarf Antirrhinums or Pentstemon Newbury Gem will make a grand display in a bed upon the lawn ; but if in early summer Spanish and English Irises occupy the bed, and in the autumn a few choice Phloxes grown on single stems are seen, interest is greatly enhanced, and neither the Antirrhinums nor Pentstemons need suffer. The chief point to observe in planting beds on such lines as these is, first, to plant thinly and then to watch progress, restricting when necessary such plants as tend to encroach too much upon the space that should be occupied by other things. One great advantage of this system of bedding is that replanting only needs to be done about once in three years, and it is also a plan that dispenses with the necessity of glass accommodation for the plants in winter. Heather Bell, SEASONABLE WORK AMONG ROSES. likely to be strained by wind and rains. Suckers will be pushing from young standard Roses, and all shoots below the worked shoulders should be cut out as soon as they can be got at. There is much greater danger of wind breaking the shoots in the case of maiden standards, and all of these need sticks in some form. More persistent heading is advisable here. Several methods of securing are practised, but the one most in favour is a stake of sufficient length and strength to admit of the stem being soundly tied, and with a top long enough to carry the young Rose growth also. As no swaying of the Briar stem is desirable, it pays to take this little e.\tra precaution and make a good job of the whole from the first. Disbudding. — By the end of May many of our forward plants will need thinning out, i.e., taking away any young shoots that have a tendency to grow inwards or are too numerous for proper or perfect development. This is all the more important with the exhibitor's blooms, who needs and in not a few instances eggs and germs, with a few insects, often survive the winter in thick growth under the eaves. I would strongly advise the thorough cleansing of such places immediately after pruning, when a more powerful solution might be used than would be safe as growth commences. Cleanliness and careful ventilation are the main points with our indoor Roses, which should now be in full profit. A. P. A SHRUBBY CAPE ASTER. Aster fruticosus. Of this extensive genus the section known as Michaelmas Daisies is so common in our gardens that any description of the plants is unnecessary. There is, however, another section containing a few species with a shrubby habit, most of which are natives of South Africa ; therefore they require the protection of a greenhouse during the colder part of the year. A, fruticosus is certainly a ven/ THIS is the time when work among our outdoor Roses commences in earnest. Pruning is finished, and the very latest of any except pot planting done. Then there is the spring mulching to complete, and, if this is done early, we get full benefit throughout the growing season. So far as the selection of manures is concerned, we need to pay most attention to the natural character of the soil. Roses enjoy almost any manures, but it is better to put the stiffest upon light and porous soils, with a leaning in the other direction if naturally on the stiff and cloggy side. But there have been quite a number of practical notes upon manures lately, and I only wish to remind readers now of their greater benefit when used at this time of the year. Very soon our maiden plants will need special attention, and much of their future depends upon how they are handled from now onwards. Where bushy plants are sought, the buds producing only one growth from the eye should be headed as soon as two or three leaves have fairly developed. Most of the Teas and Hybrid Teas push out more than one bud, and are afterwards more free in breaking from the base than the majority of our Hybrid Perpetuals. Due care should be taken not to head a few varieties that produce their best flower from the first shoot in their maiden stages. Let these develop a good flower, and cut this off boldly to within three or four of the bottom eyes when wanted. You will thus secure the finest flower, and generally get a good bottom made for the following year. Staking. — Unless quite dwarf and robust growers, all should be staked as soon as the Rose eyes push into growth. Do not make the mistake of using unsuitable sticks. The growth of maidens varies so much that sticks or stakes ranging from 2 feet to 8 feet are needed, and it is folly to put the taller ones to the wrong purpose or have the shortest against climbers. A very little thought will avoid this. Do not draw the growth in to the stick with any force. The young shoots need a certain amount of coaxing in the first tie if inclined to grow widely, and they break out very easily. Keep some good and well-worked soil drawn around the base of dwarfs, as this will assist a better union and keep the whole soft and less A RARE SHRUBBY PLANT FROM THE CAPE : ASTER FRUTICOSUS, RELATED TO THE MICHAELMAS DAISIES. THIS IS CLOSELY to curtail quite as much in the number of young breaks as in the number of flower-buds allowed, all the strength going into a less number in order to get the highest quality. Insect Pests. — Immediately leaves develop upon any shoots, it is well to wash them, even if not attacked by insects or disease. So much depends upon being in time with this work, and the maxim of prevention being better than cure, that no loss is incurred although the pests are not visible. Washing early prevents them from gaining any hold, and cannot be done too soon. At the same time, much less labour and strength of washings are needed than if the enemy is delayed only a week or so after its first appearance. It is upon warm walls and in sheltered corners that we find our first supply of aphides, and these will soon increase and stock the neighbourhood if allowed any rest. .A more persistent and early use of the syringe is all the more needed in such positions, because they are less open to cleansing rains, desirable pot plant, and although it is recorded to have been cultivated as long ago as 1759 in English gardens, it is apparently very rare at the present time. The plant forms a small shrub from 2 feet to 3 feet high, the woody stems branching out in a zigzag manner^ The short, dark green leaves are thickly borne upon the young branches, from which the flowers are freely produced upon slender peduncles during March and April, remaining in a fresh condition for a couple of months. Indi- vidually the flowers are about an inch in diameter, with the ray florets of a pleasing purple colour, and bright yellow centre florets. Useful specimens may be grown in 5-inch pots in a compost of loam, leaf-soil and sand, while propagation may be effected by cuttings of the young wood, which root readily in sandy soil, placing them under a bell-glass. Other names by which this plant is sometimes known are A. fruticulosus and Diplopappus pedunculatus. W. T. 220 THE GARDEN. [May 2, 1914. PEACHES AND POT PLANTS GROWING IN THE SAME HOUSE. M ANY amateur gardeners possessing greenhouses like to grow a Peacli tree or more, according to tlie size of the structure, in addition to the usual kinds of pot plants. Some cultivators meet ivith difficulties and fail to get full satisfaction from the Peaches and the pot plants ; others succeed verj' well. Much has to depend on the situation, but more on the management, generally. At the present time the Peach trees will need the final thinning out of the young shoots and also the removal of some of the young fruits ; but the final thinning out of the latter must be put off until the stones have hardened in them. Nature rights itself, as it were, to a great extent. For instance, if a Peach or Nectarine tree — and, in fact, any other kind of fruit tree — is overladen with young fruits, when the stoning period comes many are cast off, sufficient numbers remaining on to come to maturity. They are, however, always a little below the average size, and the tree, in perfecting the crop, is checked and much w-eakened. No tree should be put to such a strain, and that is the reason why cultivators commence, while the fruits are small, to gradually remove all except those sufficient to form a good average crop. The trees bearing such crops are not weakened, and are strong enough to continue to perfect such crops year after year. It is only advisable to leave a crop on a little above the average — one fruit to a square foot of wall or wire surface — in the case of young trees possessing extra vigour. The result of the heavy burden is, of course, to check such luxuriant growth and to bring the tree to a more normal condition — one suitable for bearing good crops every year. Of pot plants, such as Ferns and Streptocarpi may be grown very well if placed where there is least light under the trees. Fuchsias also do well ; so do Gloxinias, Francoa ramosa (Bridal Wreath), tuberous Begonias and' some of the fibrous section. These must be grown on a low stage, or on boards placed on bricks on tht border. When pot plants are grown on the stage over the border ir which the roots of the fruit trees are growing, there is sure to be a constant drip when the plants are watered from time to time. The result is a soured surface soil of the border. Counteract its bad effect by carefully scraping off the top crust only, and then scatter a small quantity of dry unslaked lime on it. With regard to ventilation, the contents of the house considered to be of most importance must have first consideration. Usually air can be admitted from this date, which will prove beneficial to both Peaches and pot plants. Watering the border soil is a very important than either the type or its variety grandiflora. matter, as the surface may he moist while the soil To good hardy climbers it is an additional plant helow is really dry. George Garner. j of merit and distmction. From Messrs. George ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Jackman and Sons, Woking. Antirrhinum Melrose. — This is an obviously NEW AND RARE PLANTS, r. .bust-growing form ot the majus type, a pink- flowering and — it is said — perpetual-flowering AWARDS OF MERIT. variety to boot. It has been exhibited on more Pyrus Malus floribunda purpurea. — A very than one occasion of late, and the question that showy and good \ariety of a well-known plant, naturally arises is : Would not other varieties The colour of the flowers, however, is red, not purple, ! specially treated do just the same? As sho\vn as might he imagined from the name. Exhibited 1 it was very charming, and of a delightful pink by Mr. R. C. Notcutt, Woodbridge, Suffolk. | shade. It is, we believe, grown largely in America. From Messrs. W. Wells and Co.. Merstham. Campanula cenisia alba. — Those who know the great charm of the typical rock-lo\dng Campanula cenisia will welcome this pure white form ol it, which is at once good and choice. That it may baffle the attempts of the amateur at the start, %ve are quite prepared to admit ; but if those who seek to grow it to perfection will starve it, make it what it really is, a purely saxatile species, all will be well. It is really a delightful plant. From Messrs. R. Tucker and Sons, Oxford. Polyanthus Orange King. — The solitary plant shown of this evidenced a remarkable break in colour, com- bined with great vigour. The dominant colour shades are orange and red, with a groundwork of old gold colour- ing. It is many years since an award has been granted to a variety cf this proup, but no plant has . more justly merited it than the above. From Mrs. Ellis, Lincoln. Hydrangea Lillie Mouilliere. — A deep pink-flowered variety of consider- able attractiveness and merit. It is apparently an easy doer. From Messrs. .Stuart Low and Co., Enfield. Tulipa stellata. — \ delightful plant in every way. The dominant colour of the rather long, lance-shaped petals is golden, the exterior of the outer petals flamed scarlet and bordered with white. A charming rock garden plant. From Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, W.C. All the foregoing were shown before the floral committee of the Royal Horticultural Society on the 21st ult., when the awards were made. Primula Ville de Nancy. — .A. very showy novelty with rich rose carmine flowers, whose pronounced lacerated petals produce a distinctly fringed characteristic. The new - comer is apparently one of the coftusoides x Veitchii hybrids, and in the soft do\vny foliage bears strong resemblance to the last-named species. From Messrs. Piper, Bayswater and Barnes. Amygdalus persica rosea flore pleno pendula. — A fine standard of this, with stem 7 feet or so high, was shown to demonstrate the good pendulous habit of the variety. The flowers are rich rose colour and very attractive. .Shown by Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond. These two novelties were granted awards oi merit by the Royal Horticultural Snriety on April 15. ANTIRRHINUM MELROSE, A NEW ROSE PINK VARIETY SAID TO BE PERPETUAL FLOWERING. Arabis aubrietioides Trevor Seedling. — A particularly good deep-coloured variety of a valuable rock plant, which will be welcomed by all lovers of choice hardy flowers. The plant is vigorous in habit and free-flowering, and, rightly used, is capable of creating new features in rock or wall garden scenery. From Mrs. E. Lloyd Edwards, Bryn Oerog, near Llangollen. Clematis montana superba. — Some half-dozen specimen plants of this fine variety of the Mountain Clematis were shown in conjunction with the typical kind to display their worth. The flowers are snow white, larger and much purer in colour May 2, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 221 RAISING ORCHIDS SEED. FROM ONE of the most progressive signs i in horticulture is the fact that in I almost every garden there is a ' desire to improve the different classes of plants, and to this end thousands of seedlings are raised annually. Orchids are no exception to this rule, and as seeds of most rare plants are usually offered SEEDLING ORCHIDS POTTED SEPARATELY IN SMALL POTS. SOME ARE SHOWN PLUNGED IN A LARGE PAN OF COCOANUT FIBRE REFUSE. for sale, I see no reason why the great Orchid firms should not do likewise. The price, of course, would depend upon the value of the plants used for crossing and the possibilities of securing a percentage of good varieties out of the resultant seedlings. Plants with seed-pods have already been offered for sale, and if amateurs could buy seed, there would, no doubt, be a great impetus given to the trade. The illustration above shows a pan of Cypripedium seedlings a few months old, the largest being placed singly in 2-inch pots and the smallest plants two in a pot. I have chosen Cypripediums because they are easily raised, and any amateur who contemplates taking up this interesting branch of orchidology would do well if he or she started with Cypripediums, or any of the terrestrial kinds. When to Sow. — Seed should be sown, directly it is ripe, around the base of older plants belonging to the same genus for preference, although this is not essential. Select a specimen that will not require repotting for at least twelve months, and see that the surface is free from moss or any growth that is likely to choke the seedlings or impede germination. The soil ought to be just below the rim of the pot ; then there is not so much fear of the seed being washed away. Several plants should be picked out for this purpose, because it often happens in the most up-to-date establish- ments that seedlings only germinate on one pot or seed-bed. How to Sow. — After giving the host plant a good watering, the seed may be sprinkled evenly over the soil with the blade of an ordinary knife. From now onwards the soU must never become dry, but extreme care should be exercised in giving water. If seed is sown in only a few pots, the receptacle may bi' stJind in saucers of water until it rises to the surface, and, failing this method, a fine-rosed watering-pot can be employed. With ordinary care and attention, germination will take place in six weeks or two months, as a general rule ; but the grower must not be impatient in this respect, as I have known seedlings to appear twelve months and even longer after the time of sowing the seed. Removing the Seedlings. — When they have made one or two tiny leaves, they may be removed with a pointed stick and placed singly in a 3-inch pot, as shown at the bottom of the illustration. The pots are filled with sphagnum moss, cut up rather finely, and all the large heads are picked off when sorting out the rubbish and slugs. When all the seedlings have been planted, the pots are plunged in some old peat or other moisture - holding material, as sho%vn in the first illustration, and lightly sprayed over directly the moss looks dry. As growth advances, larger receptacles must be provided, and a little fibrous peat incorporated with the sphagnum moss. It is essential that the plants should be kept continually growing until they reach the flowering stage. A moist, buoyant atmosphere must be maintained, especially during the spring and summer months, and a minimum temperature of 55° to 60° Falir. Shade them from all strong simlight, and never allow them to suffer from dryness at the roots. An important factor in the raising and growing of Orchid seedlings is cleanliness, for, if once they get a bad attack of thrip, it takes them a long time to recover. Where this pest is present, the house must be vaporised at once, and another good plan is to spray the plants with a solution of some reliable insecticide at fortnightly intervals. T. W. B. AURICULAS FROM SEED. The enthusiastic grower of Auriculas will be anxious to raise some seedlings, and at this season, when these beautiful flowers are appearing, a short note on the subject may be useful, for the late Mr. Ben Simonite says a man is not worthy of the name of florist if he does nothing in the way of seedlijig-raising to and cream centred kinds. Having selected an Auricula which it is iutended to use as the mother plant, the anthers must be removed with a pair of sharp-pointed scissors before the pollen is distributed. When performing this operation, hold the plant is such a position that none of the pollen cases falls down the tube. After two or three days the stigma of the prepared flowers may be dusted over with pollen from another bloom, using a fine camel-hau: brush to convey the pollen. The seed should be sown directly it is ripe, viz., about July and August, in seed-pans or ordinary flower-pots. These are filled one-third of their depth with drainage, and the usual potting compost employed. Germination is sometimes rather slow, and after pricking off the first batch the seed-pans may still be retained, because other seedlings will eventually appear. When the young plants have made their first leaf after the two seed leaves, they can be pricked off at the rate of about a dozen in a 3-inch pot. As growth advances they should be placed three in a similar sized receptacle, and at the next potting one in a pot, while a 3i-inch or 4-inch will be large enough for their final move. It usually takes about eighteen months for a seedling to reach its full size. A suitable rooting medium consists of good fibrous loam two parts, leaf-mould one part, and decayed cow-manure one part, which ought to be well mixed three weeks or so before it is required. S. ERICA AUSTRALIS. Among the early flowering Tree Heaths this species is deserving of notice, as it follows in succession those fine and now fairly well-known species E. arborea, E. codouodes and E. Veitchii, although distinct by reason of the colour of its flowers, which are purplish red and produced in great profusion from March to July. In height it grows from 4 feet to 6 feet. A fine colony of this in full flower, associated with the other species noted, attracted my attention in a Heath border in Dr. Wallis' garden at East Grinstead, Sussex ; while as an edging to these taller-growing species, masses of E. camea, E. cinerea and many others gave promise of an interesting and attractive feature to be continued for some time hence. Where space allows, a Heath border can be made, one of the most interesting features in a garden, as the wealth of material capable of being utilised, as well as the extended flowering period, provides a display of colour through nearly all the months of the year. Lindfieiii E. S. improve the flowers he cultivates. The selecrion of parents is very im- portant, and only the best varieties should be crossed. It is also advisable to mate a green-edged variety with anothei belonging to the same group ; selfs should be crossed with selfs, and so on ; while among the alpines the yellow - centred forms should be crossed together, and this remark also applies to the white SEEDLING ORCHIDS AT INCREASED SIZE THE PLANTS. VARIOUS STAGES OF GROWTH. NOTE THE OF THE POTS ACCORDING TO THE SIZE OF 222 THE GARDEN. [May 2, 1914. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. Plum and Cherry Trees in Pots. — Trees which are carrying a good crop of fruit may now receive more liberal treatment. Give frequent applications of liquid manure, and always in sufficient quantity to reach the extremities of the roots. Syringe the trees twice daily and shut up the house early in the afternoon, making the most of sun -heat. Disbudding must be carefully performed, removing all superfluous and misplaced shoots as soon as possible, but it is a mistake to remove too many at one time. Early Peach and Nectarine Trees in Pots. — The fruits on these trees will now be approaching the ripening stage and should be fully exposed to the sun. A temperature of 65° or 70° at night will suit them well. As the fruits are ripening, syringing should be discontinued, and the ventila- tors left slightly open at night. Late Vines. — The Vines in late houses require disbudding, and the most forward growths should be stopped in order to distribute the sap evenly over the Vine. Do not allow the shoots to come in contact with the glass, or they may become damaged by scalding. If the borders are restricted, careful attention will be necessary, so that the Vines may not suffer from want of moisture at the roots. In the case of shy-setting varieties, this must be carefully observed, so that no watering of the border will be necessary during the flowering period. Plants Under Glass. Humea elegans. — Plants which have been wintered in 6-nich pots will now be ready for their final potting. Let the pots be clean and thoroughly drained. A compost of turfy loam and leaf-soil in equal parts, mixed with rough silver sand and wood-ashes, will suit them well, and this should be made moderately firm about the roots. Water the plants a day previous to potting, and if the soU is in good condition, no further watering should be necessary before the roots have reached the edge of the pots, when a good watering may be given. Grow the plants in an intermediate house until re-established, after which they may be used for the conservatory or greenhouse." Humea plants intended for the flower garden may be allowed to remain in 6-ineh pots until the time arrives for placing them in the open. Caladiums. — Young plants started in small pots should not be allowed to become root-bound, but should be potted into larger pots as soon as ready. The soil may consist of turfy loam, peat and leaf-soil in equal parts, with sufficient rough sand to keep it open. Water sparingly until the roots are through the new soil, after which a good soaking may be given. Caladiums grow best in a warm, moist atmosphere, and should be protected from strong sun. Salvia splendens. — Young seedlings raised early in the year should be potted as soon as ready, in order to encourage clean, healthy growth. Rich loam and leaf-soil, with a good sprinkling of sand, will suit them well. Place the plants in a close cool pit for a few days after potting, but as the season advances they may be gro\vn in the open. Stake each plant separately, and secure to a wire as a protection against rough wind. Gloxinias. — Young plants should be carefully potted up before they become pot-bound. With increased svmshine, more atmospheric moisture will be necessary, but overhead syringing should be discontmucd as the flowers begin to open. Successional plants ought to be potted up as they become ready, and never allowed to become cramped for want of root room. The Flower Garden. Standard Plants intended for the flower garden will now be ready for removal to cooler quarters, in order to harden and prepare them for planting in the open. Fuchsias, Pelargoniums, Heliotropes, Swainsona, Calceolaria amplexicaulis and Veronica Andersomi variegata are suitable for this purpose, and should be thoroughly hardened before they are planted out. Plant Out seedling Pentstemons, Antirrhinums and summer-flowering Chrysanthemums with as little delay as possible. Primroses may be divided now and planted in the shrubbery or on the banks of the lake. Surplus plants of Primula kewensis and P. obconica may be planted in a similar position, and if slightly shaded by surrounding trees so much the better. The Kitchen Garden. Peas. — A good sowing of Peas should be made now for use in July and August. Sow the seeds thinly in trenches 4 inches deep and cover with 2 inches of fine soil, leaving the remainder of the soil to be carefully worked in among the plants before the sticks are placed in position. If the soil is dry at the time of sowing, the seeds may be lightly trodden into the drUIs previous to covering with soil, as this will hasten germination by several days. Gradus, Matchless Marrow and Royal Salute are good varieties for this sowing. Spinach. — This is an indispensable crop in summer, and requires great care to bring it to perfection, especially in hot, dry weather. As the season advances, the situation chosen should be protected from strong sun as far as possible. A border facing north or east should answer the purpose well. New Zealand Spinach makes an excellent substitute for ordinary Spinach in dry, hot weather, and should be sown in drills 3 feet apart. The warmer the weather the better this plant seems to grow. Broccoli. — The seeds should be sown without delay to produce plants for next winter and spring supplies. .Autumn Broccoli and Hallow-e'en Giant Cauliflower should be included in this sowing. This Cauliflower is indispensable for late autumn supplies. The heads are well covered with foliage, and remam in good condition for a long time. Savoys, Coleworts, Copenhagen Early Cabbage, Christmas Drumhead and Dickson's Dwarf Green Gem should be sown now, also Broccoli. April is the worst month to contend with so far as a full supply of choice green vegetables is concerned, and for this purpose we sow Harbinger and Milecross Cabbage, Dickson's Omega Savoy and several varieties of Broccoli. Tomato Plants for outdoor cultivation should now be ready for potting into 6-inch pots. Keep the plants in a close pit for a time, and water sparingly until the roots have reached the edge of the pots, after which liberal waterings should be given, and the plants gradually prepared for planting out at the end of the month. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunx. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Asparagus. — This crop is now in bearing, and It is important that the cutting should be done with caution, otherwise much damage may be done to the crowns. In very cold districts 't is a good plan to cover the bed with some litter, not only as a protection from frost, but by this means I have found one gets much more tender shoots. Cauliflowers. — A sowing may be put in now to give a supply in October, which will be found to be of immense use at that time. A small quantity of guano put in the water will not only act as a fertiliser, but will in many cases ward off the maggot, which is so troublesome in dry seasons. Peas. — Continue to make successive sowuigs of the main crop varieties, and those that are coming on should have sticks placed to them when they are 6 inches high, as it is most important that they be kept growing upright. Before sticking, earth up the rows on both sides, which will, to some extent, prevent the plants suffering in hot, dry weather. The Flower Garden. Liliiuns. — Where these are intended to form part of the bedding arr.angement, they will now be so far advanced in growth that they may be safely transferred to the open. I always find they never make such fine specimens when allowed to become the least pot-bound. In proof of this, nowhere do we find such handsome spikes as when they are grown in favoured districts where they remain in the ground all the year. East Lothian Stocks.— If these have been sufficientlv hardened off. they should be planted out at once, as there is nothing gained by keeping them standing in boxes. Before planting, gi\e the soil a dressing of finely ground lime, and ii: planting allow at least j^ inches to 18 inches between the plants. Planting Perpetual-Flowering Carnations. — For the past year or two these flowers have become increasingly popular as bedding plants, and, if carefully managed, will succeed well in most situations. Many use old plants that have flowered indoors, but yoimg plants rooted in the autumn make by far the finest display. Perhaps the best method of treating these Carnations for this work is to layer some old plants in frames in the autumn as one does the Malmaisons. I find we get stronger plants in this way. Yotmg plants which have been pinched should now be planted. These will give a display when the ordinary border varieties are over. Lawns. — Where bulbs are gro^\-n on the la%vns, the work of mowing has of necessity to be delayed. No time, however, should be lost in getting to work as soon as the foliage is sufficiently decayed. In such cases, of course, it will be necessary to go over the lawns with the scythe for the first cutting. This will remove all inequalities, after which it should be gone over with a broom to remove worm-casts and other refuse before the lawn-mower is brought into use. Plants Under Glass. Cinerarias. — If it is intended to have these in bloom about the end of the year, a small sowing may be made now. In doing so see that the mixture contains a fair amount of leaf-soil free from wirewonn, and after sowing place the seed- pan in a cold frame, as Cinerarias resent at any stage of their growth the least semblance of coddling. That being so, it is important that the seed is sown thinly, and the seedlings pricked out as soon as thev show the second leaf. Chrysanthemums. — Continue to admit air freely to nlants in frames, although it will still be necessary to close the lights at nights. Examine the plants frequently for rust and mildew, and if the slightest sign of rust appears, the leaf should at once be removed, while in the case of mildew a slight dusting with sulphur will in most cases check it, A start must now be made in cutting down plants intended for decoxati\e purposes. After they have been cut back, the frame should be kept closed for a time, and the plants syringed at lea=t tv.-ice a day to induce them to break. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Strawberries. — Time must not be lost in getting straw placed between the rows to keep the fruit clean. This \viil also act as a protection. The plants should on no account be allowed to become dry at the roots when they are in flower. On young plants not intended to fruit this season the rurmers must be cut off as the;? appear. This will assist in building up the crowns for next season. Fruits Under Glass. Vines. — Grapes colouring should have a free circulation of air and the moisture considerably reduced. If the border is sufficiently moist, it may be covered with some sweet meadow hay. This will prevent evaporation and present a clean and tidy appearance. Vines in succession houses will require attention, reducing the bunches and thinning. Such large-berried sorts as Gros Colman and Madresfield Court ought to have the berries well thinned out at the beginning, Orchard-House. — As the fruits will now be swelling, the syringe should be used freely to keep the foliage free from fly and caterpillars, which can be detected by the tender foliage curling up. The latter are best destroyed by hand picking, while the fly can be held in check by the syringe or fumigation. Gradually reduce the fruits to the required number, and allow the temperature to be considerably increased. Melons. — To have a supply of ripe fruit for August 12, the seed should be sown this week. This will be found to be the best crop of the season, inasmuch as it is on during the hottest months of the year. Where one has to depend on hot- beds and frames for their' supplies, this would also be the best time to make a sowing. The plants should be ready fur puttmg out about the first or second week in June, John Highc.ate. (Head-gardener to the M.irquis of Linlithgow.) Hopelmtn Gardens, South Q^iccnsfcrry, N.B. May 2, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 223 EDITORIAL NOTICES. '^'Everii department of hortieulture iff mpresenied in The Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions relating to matters upon tvhich they wish expert advice. The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes, but he irill not be responsible for their safe return. All reasonable care, however, will he taken, and where stamps are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted contributions. As regards photographs, if paijment be desired, the Editor asks that the price required for reproduction be phiiulu xluted. It must be distinctly understood that onlif the aeiunl photo- grapher or owner of the copgright will be treated ivitJi. The Editor ivill not he responsible for the return of artistic or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an article is accepted. Publicatian in The Garden will alone be recoonised as acceptance. Ofices : 20, Tavistock Street. Covent Garden, W.C. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— 27((! Editor intends to make The Garden helpful to all readers iv/io desire assist- ance, no matter tvhat the branch of gardening may be, and with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock Street. Covent Garden. London, W.C. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send small sci-aps that are not characteristic of the plant Letters on business should be sent to the Publisher. FLOWER GARDEN. VIOLETS UNHEALTHY {H. K. K.).~\\e could find no disease on the Violets, and think that possibly they have been kept too close. They require abundance of air and thorough drainage, otherwise they are liable to the attack of botrytis, whicli causes the leaves to damp off. DAFFODIL BULBS ROTTING (G. B. C.)-— The insects referred to are springtails, and we are doubtful whether they are the primary cause of the rot of the Daffodil bulbs, as they feed for the most part on decaying vegetable matter. It would be impossible to say at this season what the primary cause of the trouble is, but it is quite probable that it is the fungus Fusarium bulbigenum, which is doing so much damage this season to Narcissus bulbs. PLANTS FOR ROOF GARDEN (E. S.-N.).—As you desire evergreen, and presumably carpeting plants, we think such Sedums as acre and album the most smtable. Associated with these a central group of the Cobweb Houseleek (Sempervivum arachnoideum) would be very attractive. You might, indeed, cover the whole roof with this plant alone, seeing that it is interesting at all seasons. By disposing it among small blocks of sandstone, a picturesque effect would be produced. If to this white- looking species you would like a contrasting comparison, we suggest the dark green, prettily formed S. montanum. In these two you would have free-growing, eminently suitable kinds. We do not think the Iris would be suitable for your purpose. NARCISSUS DISEASED (Miss S. W. H.).— The Narcissus is attacked by yellow stripe disease, the cause of which is unknown. It is not likely to spread this season, but seems possibly not unconnected with soil conditions of an uncongenial character. Some varieties are more subject to it than others, and plants often *' grow out " of it. White Lilies are most likely to be attacked by the Lily disease when they have been open to cheek by cold winds, or by frost while they are in a growing condition. It would be well to shelter them as far as you possibly can by twiggy sticks or something of that kind from cold winds and draughts, so that the chance of such a check is reduced to a minimum. Possibly an occasional spraying with a solution of potassium sulphide, at the rate of one ounce to three gallons of water, would be of assistance in warding off an attack. ROCK GARDEN. TUB IN ROCKERY (Miss L. N. 5.).— If you remove the goldfish from the tub in your rockery, it is possible that the water will keep clear. If, however, you decide to do away with the water plant, the tub can be formed into a small peat bed by making holes in the bottom, then placing a foot of broken bricks and clinkers over the bottom. On this place good turves, grass-side downwards, and fill up with a mixture of sand and peat. In it Tlodgersia pinnata miglit be planted, or some of the low-growing Oaultherias or Vacciniums. By using loam instead of peat, Iris sibirica, I, lasvigata. various Primulas and other plants may be grown. If, however, you decide to do away with" tlic water, wo think you would And it more satisfactory to remove the tub and use its position for ordinary plants. TREES AND SHRUBS. HORSE CHESTNUT FLOWERING EARLY (X. Y. Z.).— [t is quite usual for certain specimens of the Horse Chestnut to be several weeks earlier than others in developing leaves and flowers. This phenomenon has given rise to the varietal name of praccox being added to the typical iEsculus Hippocastanum, to identify the early from the later forms. When a large number of Horse Chestnut trees are growing together, some are usually found which are considerably earlier or later than the majority. TREES FOR GRAZING LAND {A. J. .B.).— You cannot do better than plant Pinus insiguis in the position you describe. It is perfectly hardy in Cornwall and stands exposure well. It also grows very rapidly, and at twenty- five years of age ought to be from 35 feet to 40 feet liigh at least. Do not be tempted to purchase large plants ; little ones, 1 foot to 2 feet high, will transplant better and be larger at the end of five years than others whicli might have been 5 feet or 6 feet high at planting-time. You can procure plants from any of the Cornish uurscryraen, such as Messrs. Ruse or. Messrs. Gill of Falmouth, or Messrs. Treseder and Co. of Truro. They may be from 6d. to Is. each, or perhaps a little more ; we cannot say accurately, as we have not a price-list of the firms named. THE GREENHOUSE. PLANTS NOT DOING WELL {Reader) .—Tha plants arc damping off, and have doubtless been kept too moist and close. It is essential that sucli plants as these should have ample circulation about them at all times, and a great help to avoid troubles such as these is to sterilise the soil into which the plants are to be pricked out. CINERARIA LEAVES WITHERING {Clietwynd).— The appearance of the foliage of tlie Cineraria and your account of the trouble suggest that it is suffering from being brought into a dry atmosphere after having been grown in a fairly moist one. We think you might possibly get over this, to some extent at least, by hardening off the plants ; that is, accustom them gradually to a drier atmosphere before bringing them into the house. ADVICE ON THE ERECTION OF A GREENHOUSE (T. M. T.). — At the best, the erection of a new greenhouse on the site of an old conservatory would be only a very partial remedy for the trouble complained of. As the spot is so shaded, plants of a quick-growing nature are sure to run up tall and weak. The only remedy is to grow such subjects as Palms and Ferns, which do not object to a good deal of shade. For the erection of a greenhouse apply to one of the advertisers in The Garden. For obvious reasons we cannot recommend any particular firm. All are thoroughly reliable. TREATMENT OF TESTUDINARIA ((?. (?.).— As the roots of your Testudinaria show signs of bursting the pot, your better way will undoubtedly be to put it into a larger one. The new pot must be effectually drained, and a very suitable compost may be made of three parts of fibrous loam to one part of peat, with a sprinkling of broken brick rubble and sand. The plant should be potted firmly. We should not ad\dse the use of any stimulant in order to encourage growth. If the pot is well drained, the plant may be freely supplied with water during the growing season, but in winter must be kept ranch drier. Being a native of South Africa, this Testudinaria should be wintered in a structure \vith a minimum tem- perature of 45° to 50^. KITCHEN GARDEN. TOMATOES IN BOXES (JVe??io).— For single plants a box a foot long and 10 inches wide will be large enough. Top-dressings of soil and manure may be added in due course. If two or more plants are grown in a box, the latter should afford accommodation for the plants in due proportion, the box for a single plant being taken as a guide. SOWING PEAS {R. G. 5.).— Much will depend, of course, on the variety as to the length of the row a pint, for instance, will sow. The shorter and less robust varie- ties should naturally be sown thicker; thus one pint should be evenly distributed over 70 feet, and for the taller and stronger varieties, such as Quite Content, for instance, allow one pint to 100 feet. Unquestionably, Peas, as a rule, are sown much too thickly, the result being that the plants become starved and the duration of the crop is short. Much better results follow by allomng the plants of the stronger-growing varieties from 6 inehcs to 8 inches in double lines. FRUIT GARDEN. BEETLES IN VINERY {'F. H.). — The beetles are Vine weevils, and often do great damage. The larvae feed on the roots of various greenhouse plants. Spread a sheet on the ground after dark under the Vines, and then either shake them or shine a bright light upon them, when the insects will drop to the ground, feigning death. Collect them and tip them into a bucket of hot water or water with a layer of paraffin on the top. STRAWBERRY PLANTS DISEASED (A. .B.).— Your Strawberry plants are attacked by the Strawberry leaf spot fungus (Sphaerella fragariae). The best remedy for this disease is to cut ull' all the leaves in August and alluw them to dry on thr; bed ; then set fire to them and bum tiiom wticre they lie. This will do no harm to the Straw- berry plants, and will tend to destroy the fungus. The only thing that can be done at this season is to spray at frequent intervals with potassium sulphide, one ounce to three gallons of water. r;PEACH SHOOTS FOR INSPECTION {B. A. J.).— The pest on the Peach is the Peach scale, Lecanium persicae. It is to be regretted that measures were not taken in the winter to deal with the pest, for Peach tree foliage is exceedingly sensitive to all sorts of sprays and fumigants, so as to render it dangerous to use them so strong as to kill pests. Probably fumigating \vith hydrocyanic acid would be the best check, but it is dangerous to apply. This month the eggs of the pest will hatch, and as soon as this happens (and careful watch should be kept), the house should be fumigated ^vith XL All or some similar fumigant. MISCELLANEOUS. GRUBS INFESTING SOIL {0. P. Q.).— The grubs sent for identification are the larvai of the crane-fly, often destructive on lawms and flower borders. Kepeated rolling in the evening will often destroy these pests on lawns. In the ftower borders you should use Vaporite, and destroy the larvas on all possible occasions. VARIOUS QUESTIONS (A. G. M.).— Antirrhinum Asariua can be rooted in September under a boll-glass, as one would treat the common Antirrhinum. Planted in a warm spot in a fairly rich sandy soil, it will usnallv survive several years. Primula Forte«tii is doubtfully hardy in tliis country, but is undoubtedly more reseotful (if damp than of cold. The soil in whicii it is planted must be thoroughly drained, and the plants protected from damp accumulating in their crowns. WALL PLANTS FROM JULY TO SEPTEMBER (B. M. O.). — The period mentioned in your lettfT is the weakest for obtaining an effective display in the wall garden, though there are a few plants which are indispensable. The majority, however, are over by the end of June, though in your northern district the flowering may be later than usual. The following arc among the best things : Achillea tomentosa, yellow ; Campanula muralis, which usually gives a second flowering : C. garganica, in three varieties ; C. Profusion, certainly one of the best ; Corydalis lutea, charming in leaf or flower at any time ; the Edelweiss, Polygonum vaccinifolium, Achillea umbellata, A. Heuteri and Clavennse, and Zauschneria californica, the last most effective, with scarlet flowers. How much success might be achieved depends not a little upon the nature of the wall and the method of planting : but by colonising the best — arranging them, that is, in free masses — a good display is possible -with but a few kinds. The Cob- web Houseleek is a good plantat anytime, and, well placed, always attracts attention. There are others which might extend into July, but would not be effective for any length of time, DESIGN FOR SUNK GARDEN (F. M.i).).— There is one ■ serious defect in the design for the simk garden as we under- stand it from your letter. The proportion is not at all good, the garden being much too narrow for its length. The least ■width permissible for a garden 118 feet long should be 40 feet, viz., width equal one-third length. If you have not room to \\iden out the area (when a much more attractive design for beds would be possible), we think you would do well to slightly alter the path design, as shown in Plan I. In the narrow borders at the base of the wall we would plant Iris pumila. Aubrietias, Campanula pnsilla, Dianthus, Viola gracilis and other small-growing plants of similar nature, which would give the effect of a herbaceous border in miniatm-e. The edges of borders along paved walks should be planted with small creeping plants, like Gypsophila repens. Thymus Serpyllum, Arenarias, d'c, that would creep partly over the edges of the paths. The circular beds could be planted with Lavender or Kosemary. The effect of introducing the circles will be to alleviate the monotony of so many straight lines. If it is possible to widen out the centre portion of the garden, as shown in Plan II., a much better effect could be produced. Borders on the top of the walls (we presume they are retaining walls, and not built above the ground level), so that you can get trailing plants to hang dowm the walls, are necessary to complete the design. VARIOUS QUESTIONS {A. G. T.).— The question of inducing Hydrangeas to produce blue flowers has of late years aroused a good deal of interest. The change in colour from the normal type is often attributed to the presence of iron in the soil, and it has been applied in various ways, but not always with satisfactory results. There are two preparations on the market for turning the flowers of Hydrangeas blue, namely. Azure, which is a speciality of Messrs. William Cutbush and Son of High- gate, and Cyanol, which is, we believe, a Continental preparation. Messrs. Cutbush have several times shovra very fine blue flowers, which have been treated mth Azure. The presence of lime in the soil is very detri- mental to the production of the desired blue tint; hence the plants should never be given water that contains chalk, llain-water is the very best. It would have been better if you had commenced applying the preparation earlier, but if your plants are not far advanced it will, no doubt, be in time. Painters' knotting is often used to check the bleeding of Vines, the cut surface being seared before- hand with a red-hot iron. Dusting the fronds of your Ferns with soot or sulphur will do little towards checking the injury done by woodlice or small snails. WoodUce can be readily trapped by cutting some Potatoes in half and scooping out part of the interior. Then make a notch in one side of the Potato and place it concave side down- wards on the stage. The notch will allow the woodlice tu get underneath the Potato, which should be examined 224 THE GARDEN. [May 2, 1914. in the morning, and the pests dropped into some boilinp water. Small pots, \vith a little dry moss therein, laid on their sides where woodlice congregate also form good traps. Thev must, like the Potatoes, be examined in the morning. The small snaUs should he sought for, when dark, by the light of a candle. NAMES OF PL AUTS.— James Ward.—Thf Snowy llespilus (Anielanchier canadensis). F. W A. — A variety of Heuchera sanguinea, but which it is impossible to say from specimen. There are many varieties and hybrids Blade HomSro,— Bubus spectabilis. J. ./. — SeedMncis of Narcissus Poeticus. Mrs. O. C. Q. Povnton —The coniferous plants are Cupressus lawsoniana ■lud Cupressus semper\irens (small). The Maple is Acer monspessulanum. A. C. P.. Icybndge.—BriK^ hybrida, an early fiowering hardy Heath. DouMful. — 1, Acanthus mollis; 2. Romneva Coultori; 3, Araygdalus jiana. W. H. J., Kent. — 1, Kalmia latifolia ; 2, Allium neapolitanum. SOCIETIES. THE MIDLAND DAFFODIL SOCIETY'S SHOW. Once more this sliow. which was held on April L^:^ and '24. was full of interest, both to the Daftodil experts and 1o the general public. The show, as usual, took place -in the Edgbaston Botanic Gardens, Birmingham, and here we would take the opportunity of thankm^- both Mr. Herbert Smith (secretary of the society) and Mr. T. Humphreys (Curator of the Gardens) for their un- failing courtesv, and to congratulate them^on the success with which the e.-diibition was carried through. Owing to the recent spell of warm and sunny weather, the early blooms were past their best. Only a comparatively few of the earlv trumpets were on view. That magnificent yellow self trumpet Kin" Alfred, which usually makes such fine splashes of colour at Birmingham, was only to be seen on one or two stands at the most. There was, h.jw- ever. a wonderful display of white blooms, and seldom have we seen Poets so plentiful at any Daffodil show. CojiPETiTivE Classes. Speaking generally, competition was very keen, with the result that the whole of the exhibition space was filled with blooms of high quality. In Class 1, for a collection of fifty varieties of Daffodils, there was a keen fight for supremacy. Messrs. Cart- wright and Goodwin were successful, among the pick of their varieties being Loch Fyne, White Knight and White Wolf. Mr. C. Bourne, the Kev. J. Jacob and Mrs. Kidley followed ni the order named, each of them showing collections representing the different sections of the Daffodil. Class 2, for a decorative exhibit ot cut Narcissi only, arranged against ;i wall on a space 9 feet by 4 feet, brought together many beautiful and effective groups. The first prize went to Mr. C. Bourne ; second, the Rev. J. Jacob ; third, Mr. J. A. Kenrick, Harborne. In all of the exhibits the association of Daffodils and foliage plants was verv pleasing. aiessrs. E. H. Krelage and Sons were very successful in the classes for trumpet Daffodils, and secured premier awards for six white, six yellow, and the single bloom white trumpet. Their beautiful white trumpet variety Mrs. Ernst H. Krelage was one of the features of the show. Mr. C. Bourne was most successful with the incomparabilis section. Among other successes, he gained first prizes for six incomparabilis, six Barrii in two classes, and six varieties of any section that have not been in com- merce more than four years. Messrs. F. Herbert Chapman, J. Pope, R. Bruce Waite, A. M. Wilson, m a t;-('t-. Adiantums were well repre- sriitrii amunj: the Ferns. From the Donard Nursery Company, Newcastle, County Down, came a superb collection, in which the massive blooms of King Alfred stood out prominently. Gloria Mundi, too, was well shown, likewise Ethel Porter. Buttercup, Homespun and Seline Malone. This is the first time that we have seen an exhibit from this Irish firm, and they are to be complimented on the quality of the blooms that were shown. Messrs. lleamsbottom and Co., Geashill, King's County, Ireland, showed St. Brigid Anemones in brilliant shades of blue, pink and scarlet. Messrs. Walter T. Ware, Limited, Inglescombe Nurseries, near Bath, showed Daffodils of fine quality. The vases of The Doctor, Leo and Cleo- patra were specially good, while some of the finest novelties were seedlings under number. There were other non-competitive groups, including that shown by Airs. Lloyd Edwards, Bryn Oerog. near Llangollen, comprising a number of new hybrid Saxifrages and the purple Aubrietia Lloyd Edwards. MRS. ERNST H. KRELAGE, WHICH GAINED AN AWARD Oi- MERIT AT THE MIDLAND DAFFODIL SHOW. DUMFRIES AND GALLOWAY GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. exhibitor, gaining the Barr Vase in addition to a silver medal. Mr. C. Bourne gained the silver medal in the champion- ship classes, 3 to 27, and fllr. E. M. Crosfield gained a similar award for his success in other classes. Awards of Merit. Mrs. Ernst E. Krdage. — A magnificent and "refined white trumpet. Shown by Messrs. ICrelage and Sons. Idris. — A beautiful flower of the incomparabilis section. Perianth wfiite, pale lemon cup prettily crinkled. Shown by Mr. \V. A. Watts. Evangeline. — Perianth large and white with over- lapping segments and a much expanded clear yellow cup. It belongs to the Leedsii group. Shown by Messrs. H, D, Phillips. Limited. The lecturer at the closing meeting of this association, held in the Wesley Halls, Dumfries, on April 26, was Mr. Oliver of Drumlamig Castle Gardens. Mr. S Arnott presided over a good meeting, and introduced Mr. Oliver, whose subject was " A Walk and Talk About Kew Gardens," illustrated by a large number of exoellont slides, displiiyed on the screen by a lantern ably manipu- lated by Mr W. A. Mackinnel. Mr. Oliver gave an e.xcol- lent de'scription of the gardens and their history and leading features, the capital views bringing out the points he wished to emphasise. Mr. Oliver, who was four years at Kew, afforded a large amount of information, new even to some of those who knew the Royal Gardens at Kow fairly well, and quite an enjoyable and profitable evening was spent. On the motion of the chairman. Mr. Oliver was cordially thanked for his adrairablo account of Kew. ^^hH| 1 ^v^.JaHEf^ sharp, keep the light closed down and protect with mats or sacks stuffed with hay. A frame 6 feet wide by 4 feet long and 3 feet deep at the back will hold about twelve plants in 7-inch or 8-inch pots. Such a frame can be made of stout wood, or, if preferred, bricks may be used. I have even seen turf used to make the walls, with a narrow board lying on the top of the turf walls to support the glass light. Any handy-man could make such a frame, and certainly he could glaze the light himself. In a frame of this FLOWERING SPRAY OF FOTHERGILLA MAJOR, A RARE HARDY SHRUB NOW BLOOMING AT KEW. was known as the Broad-leaved Fothergilla. The Fothergillas have no petals, the showy inflorescences being due to the bunches of creamy- white fila- ments. These appear in advance of the leaves, which are roundish oval, up to inches long. In autumn, as the leaves die off they assume a rich, clear yellow, lasting, as a rule, in beauty for several weeks. A plant grooving at Kew is already about 4 feet in height. In the ^Arnold Arboretum there is a beautiful specimen 8 feet high. Six to a dozen plants make a very attractive bed or group along the front of a border of choice shrubs. Fothergillas thrive in a compost of sandy loam, peat and leaf-mould. Layering and cuttings form ready means of increase. A. O. foliage. Green fly will show itself, and I know of no simpler remedy than Auto Shreds. They are simply set light to, and cause no trouble what- ever. If the reader possesses a greenhouse and desires to plant Roses therein, he could not do better than plant out such pot Roses as I have described, or, if preferred, he can purchase estab- lished plants. The soil that will be used for the Roses in the planted-out greenhouse should be good loam — -and it will pay anyone to import a cartload or two of good material — with some 230 THE GARDEN. [May g. iqiJ SOME BEAUTIFUL POPPY- WORTS. THE MEGONOPSES. [Coniiniied from page 216.) Cultivation. — A point of high importance here is that for all practical purposes the plants are moisture-loving, preferring peat, leaf-mould and loam in about equal parts, while not objecting to rich, light loams alone. Equally important, for some species at least, and those of nobler growth more particularly, is the question of soil richness ; hence too great a proportion of peat must be so raised from seeds and subsequently planted in their permanent quarters as to render possible the fullest development of the plant in the first year. Failing this a meagre develop- ment results, and all else — size, colour, free and profuse flowering — follows in due proportion. Of no group is this more true than of these biennial Poppyworts. In other words, a spring sowing of the seeds cannot produce the results of an autumn sowing, any more than July planting can equal that of April or May. Seeds and Seedlings. — Seeds are not always produced abundantly or of the highest quality. This is so even in those instances where artificial should not be employed, or, if for any employed, it must be liberally enriched. In this connection no words of mine could possibly possess half the weight or impor- tance of those which, in response to questionings as to the exact conditions under which he found the unique M. integrifolia. came from the lips of Mr. E. H. Wilson. In the first place, he said the whole of the cultivated examples. he had seen since his return had been extremely disappointing, giv- ing the impression of starvelings rather than that of well-grown specimens. In its high mountain home, he further remarked, the ground is traversed by vast num- bers of yak, a species of ox, which are responsible for the heavy manuring of the ground. To these conditions Mr. Wilson attached the great vigour of the plants, the richer colourmg of the flowers, and the greater freedom of production ; hence it would be well for gardeners generally to cultivate the plant on these lines. Mr. Wilson was also emphatic as to the hardiness of this fine species, and imagined that the feeble results he had seen were, partly, the evidences of fear on the part of the cultivator rather than those of indifferent treatment or neglect. We know to-day that not a few of the more robust-growing species not only delight in rich soils, but that the cooling effects of cow- manure have a decided influence for good in the maintenance of a steady, continuous growth. How great a part altitude and the rarefied conditions of high moun- tain air play in the cultivation of these plants must ever remain a mystery. Even if solved, the information, because of the impossi- bility of imitation, would be quite useless to the gardener. The task before the latter is that of adapting these children of the mountains to the conditions prevailing in lowland countries, and In so doing he will find the school of experience — observation and experiment — of the greatest possible service. Though the fact that the major portion of the species comprising the genus are virtually only of biennial duration is well known, it is worth repeating, if not, indeed, emphasising. Biennial plants of all classes, if they are to produce at flowering-time the best they are capable of giving, reason pollination has been resorted to. Apparently tion of the earlier opening flowers is resorted to. a moderate supply of seeds will be forthcoming. These may be sown at any time within a month or so of harvesting, and, if of good quality, will vegetate in about three weeks thereafter. Well- dramed pans of light, sandy loam or sandy peat will do quite well for the seed-sowing, and the seeds, covered with soil of the thickness of half-a-crown, will be quite safe in the temperature named. A cultural item of importance is that the soil of the seed-pan be well soaked with water in advance so as to reduce to a minimum any ftirther need for water till the seedlings appear. This latter may be expedited by covering the seed-pans ivith sheets of glass, and again with moss, to conserve moisture and the uniform condi- tions of soil warmth. Subsequent treatment resolves itself into pricking off and potting smgly as occasion demands, and in maintain- ing a sturdy, uninterrupted growth by further shifts till the arrival of April, when the plants should be ready for their permanent places in the garden. E. H. Jenkins. {To be continued.} IRIS FLAVESCENS, A BEAUTIFUL MAY-FLOWERING HYBRID WITH YELLOW BLOSSOMS. large quantities of good seeds are produced, the thin crop of resulting seedlings demonstrating either the infertility of the majority or some cultural error in raising them. In this connection I am of opinion that cold-frame treatment may, to some extent, be responsible, the seeds perishing in the soil, and that a quicker germinating, the outcome of sowing in slight warmth, say, a temperature of 45°, would be more productive of good results. In the case of M. integrifolia and M Wallichii this is undoubtedly true, and there may be others, The only way to ensure a good crop of seeds is by artificial pollination, and, even so, much depends upon the season and not a little upon the fecundity of the pollen. Usually, however, where pollina- A CHARMING MAY- FLOWERING IRIS. Iris flavescens. This attractive May-flowering Iris is worthy of extended cultiva- tion. For some unknown reason it is very much neglected, and is, like the German Iris, more often than not relegated to an out-of- the-way comer in the garden, where it is allowed to dwindle and die. Iris flavescens is a good border plant ; the flowers are yellow, and the plant attains a height of 2 feet to 3 feet. For a long time it has been looked upon as a synonym of I. imbricata, but Mr. W. R. Dykes, in his thoroughly reliable book, " The Genus Iris," says " the frequently repeated statement that 1. flavescens is a native of the Caucasus is due to its erroneous identification with I. imbricata (Lindl.). It is doubtless a garden hybrid and has no real claim to specific rank," Whatever may be its origin, I. flavescens is a beauti- ful Iris of the easiest possible culture. Two conditions are essen- tial to its welfare, i.e., sun and a well-drained soil. It will thrive in both heavy and light soils ; but if the soil is very sandy, a top- dressing of short, well-rotted manure and leaf- soil will prove beneficial. When transplanting is necessary, it should be done soon after flowering. NEPETA MUSSINM. It is a good plan to plant this lovely perennial in a border of Roses. It serves to cover up bare stems, and will be found to associate well with almost any colour. Last season we saw this combination on a large scale, and we shall not readily forget the effect. It should be planted witho\it delay. May 9, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 231 COLOURED PLATE. PliATB 1493. FOUR GOOD ANTIRRHINUMS. M OST of our readers will remember that last year the Royal Horti- cultural Society held a trial of Antirrhinums in the famous gardens at Wisley. There a great many varieties were grown side by side for comparison, and when judged a number were granted awards of merit. Four of the varieties thus honoured are shown in the accompanying coloured plate, which, owing to the wide range of colours, does not quite adequately portray the vivid hues of the flowers. Coccinea was sent to the trials by two firms, viz., Messrs. Dobbie and Co. and Messrs. Dickson and Robinson. It is a beautiful variety, and creates quite a brilliant effect in the garden. Rosy Morn was also sent by Messrs. Dickson and Robinson and by Messrs. Watkins and Simpson. It is a beautiful shade of pink, and the plant has a nice sturdy habit. Golden Queen was sent by three firms, viz., Messrs. R. H. Bath, Limited, Messrs. Dickson and Robinson, and Mr. W. H. Simpson. It has large flowers that are well placed on stout, erect stems. Maize Queen, the fourth variety, is officially described as maize yellow. This also was sent to the trials from three sources, viz., Messrs. Dobbie and Co., Messrs. J. H. Veitch and Sons, Limited, and Mr. W. H. Simpson. The cultivation of Antirrhinums was fully dealt with by Mr. R. P. Brotherston in the issue for March 14 last, so that it is not necessary to describe it in detail here. They are not difficult plants to grow, and, although it is too late to sow seeds now to provide plants to flower this year, sturdy seedlings can be pur- chased from many nurserymen and plant growers. These are usually ready for moving about the third week in May. Seed may be sown out- doors during June to provide plants for flowering early next year, and where it is desired to naturalise Antirrhinums in old walls or rockwork, that is undoubtedly the best course to pursue. For beds and borders, however, early spring sowing in frame or greenhouse usually gives the best results. With the many beautiful colours that we are now getting in modern varieties, it will not be surprising if, in a few years' time, they become almost as popular as the Sweet Pea. RHODODENDRON ROSY BELL. Although Rhododendron Rosy Bell is by no means new, yet it is only within the last year or two that its merits have been appreciated. As an early variety for Southern gardens it is coming rapidly to the fore. The parents of this attractive hybrid are two Sikkim species, R. ciliatum and R. glaucum. For outdoor decora- tion it is a most useful plant, but, as may be imagined from its parentage, not very hardy. Except in the favoured South and West, a position sheltered from the morning sun should be selected when planting, so that if there is a little frost it will gradually thaw before the sun's rays reach the plants. The flowering season is the second half of April. The plant is evergreen ; the blooms are bell-shaped, about an inch long and the same in width. DAFFODIL NOTES. NEW DAFFODILS AT THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S 1914 SHOW. IN dealing with novelties I need only say by way of introduction that there were only a very few which I might describe as altogether " out of the way." The double Llinos marked a new type of double of a symmetrical and pleasing shape, and was the most talked about flower in the hall. A magnificent Lucifer, shown by Mr. A. M. Wilson under a number, is as large as any, if it is not the largest flower, with a long all-red cup and white perianth. Before dealing with the different items in detail, I think I ought to explain the meaning of my measurements. It will have been noticed that I usually use such a formula as si inches >; i^ inches A GROUP OF THE BEAUTIFUL RHODODENDRON ROSY BELL. SOWING WALLFLOWERS. Seeds of these indispensable flowers should be sown at once in order to obtain good strong plants for the flower garden in October. Sow the seeds in shallow drills a foot apart, and transplant the seed- lings as soon as large enough to handle. Other seeds for spring bedding should also be sown now, and these may include Myosotis, Pansy, Polyanthus, Silene, Aubrietia, and double Daisy New Giant Rose and White. They are borne in small, rather loose trusses, terminating practically every twiggy growth. These usually consist of about five flowers, while sometimes there are two or three trusses together terminating a growth, which to all intents and purposes might be one large truss of flowers. The colour is a delicate pink with a suspicion of mauve. As can be readily seen in the accompanying illustration. Rosy Bell is a dwarf bushy plant and very free flowering. With age the plants gradually increase in size, the tall plant in flower at the back of the group being also Rosy Bell. It is quite a good plant for the rock garden as well as for the border, while those who have only a bleak garden will find Rosy Bell a useful Rhododendron for pot cultivation. Cuttings root readily in sandy peat under a bell-glass, and in a propagating-frame with slight bottom-heat. or 4 inches x (i inch x ij inches) x (r| inches x 2i inches). In both cases the first number is the diameter of the perianth. Where only a single measurement follows, that one is the diameter of the eye or cup. The inference to be drawn is that the flower is a Poet or a very shallow cupped variety of some Barrii or Leedsii. Where two measure- ments follow, the first is that of the exterior segments of the perianth (the first that of their greatest width and the second that of their length from the base of the corona or trumpet to the tip) and the last one that of the trumpet or cup (the first being the length and the second the diameter of the top, including the recurve of the brim). I hope this short explanation is clear, for, as the late Mr. Sydenham used to say, these details enable us to construct the flower in our mind's eye. Llinos, a new type of double raised and shown by Mr. Watts of Si. Asaph. This was the first bloom on the plant, so there is just a little doubt 232 THE GARDEN. [May 9, igi4. if it will come the same again, although the raiser has every hope that it will. The flower has a diameter of 4 inches, witli two regularly placed rows of perianth segments on the outside, with parts of the split-up corona sjTnmetrically arranged between them. The centre of the whole is a jumble up of longer and shorter bits of either petals or corona, two or three of the pale shaded ones being especially prominent. Perianth primrose ; the petals of tlie inner row have a yellow stripe down their centre. Corona pale orange. Lord Lister (Welchman), an exquisite white Ajax, which I remember was exhibited at Birming- ham last year. As the measurements indicate, it is a flower with a trumpet on the short side, the recurve of which is a little like that of Mme. de Graaff. The perianth segments are smooth and overlapping, with just the slightest inclination to come forward. It was cer- tainly one of the best flowers at the show. Size : 44 inches x (li inches x rf inches) x (i J inches x i| inches). Martel (Cranfield), a giant incomparabilis of perfect symmetry and form, the whole flower of a rich yellow, with the cup or small trumpet of a deeper shade. The perianth is perfectly flat, and is set at right angles to the corona. The segments are wide and overlapping. It is a true florist's flower, and stands to the usual giant incomparables much as Florist's Favourite, which I described in the issue of April 25. and of which an illustration is given on this page, does to an ordinary trumpet, such as Golden Spur or Emperor. Measurements ; 4 inches x (ij inches x if inches) x (ij inches x if inches). Princess Juliana (Barr), a rich, very deep yellow Ajax, a real self. Its dis- tinguishing feature is the massive, widely scalloped recurve of its somewhat short trumpet. It is a flower that one is bound to notice in any collection — perhaps this is why it is called after the little girl Princess of Holland — otherwise I would have thought its sturdiness would rather have suggested a William the Silent or a Barneveldt. It received an award for show from the Narcissus committee. Measurements : 4 J inches x (i-| inches x i| inches) x (ij inches x zj inches). N.B. — When the diameter of the trumpet (here 2 J inches) is very much in excess of that of its length (here ij inches), it usually denotes a wide recurve of the brim. Morven is a pale bicolor Ajax which was raised at Forres Castle by Brodie of Brodie. It was brought before the committee by Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin, and received an award for show purposes. It is a very cool, clean- looking flower, and has a decided resemblance to J. B. M. Camm in its general appearance, but with a longer trumpet. Size : 3I inches x (iJ inches x i J inches) x (if inches x li inches). Sigismund (Barr) resembles a beautiful Giant Leedsii, with very broad, overlapping segments of great substance, the whole flower being of a delicate greenish white. Size : 3J inches x (li inches x if inches) x (i J inches x i| inches). White City (W. T. Ware) is a striking Leedsii of the White Lady type, raised by Mrs. Backhouse. The perianth, which is of a beautiful white shade, is inclined to come forward and the extreme edges of the petals to incurve. Massed as Mr. Ware had it in great market bunches, " it was fine." Size : 3J inches x seven-eighths of an inch. It is a very thick flower. Ivory King (Bourne) must have been, I fancy, a new purchase, for its name does not occur in the 1914 list. Anyhow, Mr. Bourne annexed a great beauty when he bought Ivory King. It is away from the usual shades of large Ajaxes, inasmuch as it is a rich ivory white self. The perianth is slightly hooded, and the trumpet wide and boldly expanded at the brim, the whole bloom being of much substance. Measurements : 4i inches x (if inches x i| inches) x (ij- inches ;■ I J inches). Coral Queen (Barr) is a white-petalled Barrii. The segments are rather " rough " and uneven, but not so much as to prevent it being a beautiful flower for vase decoration. The broad band of THE NEW DAFFODIL FLORIST'S FAVOURITL. THL 1- DEEP YELLOW FLOWERS ARE OF PERFECT FOR rosy buff which circles the flat eye is most un- common, and will well repay any little extra trouble that an early gathering and afterwards keeping of the blooms would occasion. It is no use disguising or minimising the fact that these delicate and fugitive colours need special care if we are to enjoy them, and that treated as an ordinary garden plant, like an Emperor, they are never seen. Size : 3 inches x seven-eighths of an inch. Golden Apricot (Barr) is another example of a flower with unique colouring in its cup, which, as the name implies, is a golden apricot with an edge of buff ; at least, that is the best Mr, Rudolph Barr and myself could do as we stood before it and discussed its shade. The cup is large in propor- tion to the whole. The perianth is rough and of much substance. Size : 3 J inches x (i inch X I J inches). The numbers in parentheses belong to the cup. Mogador (Engleheart) is an exquisite example of a star-shaped Giant Leedsii of great refinement. It features in many respects White Pennant (R. H. Bath), but the cup is much more like a diminutive trumpet. As White Pennant was in the hall, I was able to compare the two varieties together, and as a result I fell a victim, and the next time it blooms some of the bulbs will find themselves in New Zealand and some at White- well. I call it Mogador, the lovely white city on the seashore of the Atlantic as seen from the surrounding sand hills, the southernmost port of Morocco open to foreigners. Size : Diameter of the whole flower, 4 inches. I do not seem to have any record of the cup, but it must have been about ij inches x ij inches. l^ R 5 (Engleheart) is a narrow-cupped Leedsii of striking appearance because of the pink edge to its cup. It has a perianth like that of Thora, and a long, rather narrow cup, broadly suffused pink. It is seen to most advantage when the flower is held sideways against the light. 741 (Wilson) is the magnified Lucifer which is previously referred to. Size ; 4i inches x (ij inches x if inches) x (three-quarters of an inch x seven-eighths of an inch). In estimating this measurement I ought to say that I think the diameter (4I inches) would have probably been a quarter of an inch more if the segments had been stretched to their full length. Martha (Wilson), a refined small flower of a lovely shade of primrose, both perianth and corona being an exact match of one another in colour, a well-defined edge of red round the cup giving the necessary relief. Size of bloom : 2I inches x seven- eighths of an inch. Yellow Poppy (CartwTight and Goodwin) is a very large incomparabilis, \vith a wide open, cup-shaped corona in the place of the more usual long-shaped one. The perianth was flat and overlapping, with rounded segments, and pale primrose in colour. The yellow cup was edged with a narrow band of orange. Dimensions : 3I inches x (li inches x ij inches) x (three-eighths of an inch x one-eighth of an inch). Various. — I have many more nice flowers described in my notes, such as the most exquisite triandrus hybrid with which Mr. P. D. Williams won the single bloom class ; Mont Clair, a grand, very deep yellow Ajax on Messrs. Barr's stand ; the well-grown Harold Finn and the single bloom of White Pennant on Messrs. Bath's ; Girdle, one of Mr. Watts' fine Giant Leedsii ; Agatha, a pretty pointed white Ajax on Mr. Bourne's ; the chaste white trumpet Vestal Virgin on Messrs. J. R. Pearson and Sons', surely one of the most lovely of its type ; and a uniquely coloured one also among Messrs. Pearson's, with a primrose perianth and a lemon trumpet, named Sulphur Gem — 3 J inches x (if inches x ij inches) x (i J inches X iJ inches) — sold to Holland, that country so greedy for our beauties and so successful in getting them ; Mrs. W. O. Wolseley, a very early and refined Giant Leedsii on Messrs. Carter's ; and others too numerous to mention, which is just as it should be, seeing that I am writing about the big London show of 1014. Joseph Jacob. ICH M. May 9, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 233 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. HOW TO GROW VEGETABLE MARROWS. THE Vegetable Marrow is a prolific plant when well treated. It is a fact, however, that the best is rarely obtained from the plants. After the first week in June they grow freely in suitable soil, but perhaps it is owing to the ease with which they can be grown in warm weather that many cultivators pay less attention to the welfare of the plants than their merits as luscious vegetables warrant. On the other hand, there are cultivators who are over-anxious in the matter, and raise seedlings too early, coddle the young plants, and put them out a few weeks too soon ; then they get a serious check, if they are not quite killed. From start to finish Vegetable Marrows require warmth and to be guarded against chills. Sowing Seeds.— If seeds are sown before the middle of May, the resultant plants will be ready to put out on June 10, a date quite early enough, as young, robust plants are much more valuable than those stunted through being kept in the pots too long. Sow one seed in a 3-inch pot filled with loam, leaf-soil and sand in equal propor- tions. No. I, Fig. A, shows how the seeds must be sown. It is a wise plan to sow them in fairly moist soil ; then, if the pots are placed in a warm position, the seeds will germinate without being watered. But it is essential that the soil be kept moist, else germination will be delayed ; furthermore, after it has started, the -SHOWING SEED SOWN IN POT AND SEEDLING WELL ESTABLISHED. C. DIAGRAM TO ILLUSTRATE HOW TO FERTILISE THE FLOWERS. embryo plant will perish if the soil suddenly becomes very dry at this season. A warm frame is the most suitable structure for the young plants until a fortnight prior to their being put in their summer quarters, and during that fortnight they must be retained in a cold frame, where they can be fully exposed in the daytime and partly so at night. No. 2 shows a plant in a 6-inch pot at a suitable stage for planting out. Making the Beds. — In the meantime the culti- vator must form the beds in readiness for the plants. It is a mistake to select a much-shaded position or one exposed to east winds. An open, sunny quarter is best. It is tmwise to build up a high, dry bed of straw and put on it only a few small heaps of common garden soil. A solid heap of soil, weeds and other garden rubbish would be better. The best bed, however, is one similar to Fig. B. It is composed of rotted manure and good loam, with a free admixture of half- rotted leaf-soil, and is about a foot above the genera! level of the surrounding ground. Planting and Training. — No. i, Fig, B, shows the plant ; Nos. 2, 2, side shoots ; Nos. 3, 3, the side shoots stopped when several fruits have formed on each. The leading shoot need not be stopped at all, but be trained and_^ pegged down on the bed, so as to fill up nicely all surface space without undue crowding. Allow a space of 5 feet from plant to plant. Fertilising or "Setting" the Fruits.— Like Melons and Cucumbers, Vegetable Marrows bear male (staminate) and female (pistillate) flowers. In Fig. C, No. i denotes a male flower ; No. 2, a male flower with half of the yellow flower petals removed. No. 3 shows the bared stigma. No. 4 represents the embryo fruit or Marrow, and No. 5 the stigma of the male bloom inserted in the centre. All cultivators of Vegetable Marrows do not go to the trouble of thus setting the fruits, but leave it to bees and other insects. Sometimes full crops are obtained thus ; but it is well worth while, especially in dull, cold seasons, to artificially set the fruits. Water when it is needed, and feed liberally after there are a number of Marrows swelling nicely. G. G. THE HERBACEOUS BORDER IN MAY. The herbaceous border is once more alive with new growth in all directions, and with these signifi- cant and welcome signs before us arises the thought as to how best we can assist Nature to perform her perfect work. There are just at this time many duties requiring attention, among which is Mulching. — The recent spell of abnormally warm weather will have perforce turned gardeners' minds to the expediency of mulching, even thus early in the season, and this is certainly advisable, as subsequent results will no doubt prove. For this purpose the manure need not be of the decidedly " old " type, recommended for use when digging in. It should not, however, be laid on in large " cakes," but be first well broken up with the fork, remembering that the object of a mulch is to prevent undue evaporation of moisture round the roots, while at the same time not obstruct- ing air access. In the event of mulching material not being available (manure is not essential ; grass or hedge cuttings answer the purpose), the next best thing is to keep the top soil in a friable con- dition by frequent use of the Dutch hoe. As a matter of fact, keeping a permanently good surface tilth will always be found extremely beneficial to the plants, and especially during dry weather. In illustration of this point, a friend of the writer's places so much confidence in his Dutch hoe — with justifiable results — that he never uses a watering-can at all ! And this garden is always " fair to look upon." We will now consider the question of Thinning. — The present is an opportune time for reducing the number of shoots on such perennials as Phloxes, Delphiniums, Achilleas, and similar subjects. The weak, and therefore undesirable, B. MARROW PLANTS IN BED, WITH SIDE SHOOTS STOPPED AFTER FRUIT IS SET. shoots need to be removed, and frequently also a few stems from the centre of the plant, in order to allow the remainder room to develop. Next comes the necessary consideration of Staking. — It is of importance that this duty, be commenced early. Bamboo canes are excellent for the purpose. The aim in view should be to keep the plant growing in as natural a position as possible ; hence large-sized plants may require several stakes. In tying, say, a plant of Erigeron, it will be found to be worth while not only to surround the whole with the tying material, but also to cross and re- cross it through the plant — this will tend to prevent crooked flower-stems. B. W. L. 234 THE GARDEN. [May 9, 1914. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. Peach and Nectarine Trees in Late Houses require careful attention withi respect to ttiinning and tying the young shoots. This is a very im- portant matter, especially if the trees are young, for if they are neglected at this stage it is a difficult matter to make good trees of them afterwards. WhUe tying in the young shoots, a space of 4 inches should be allowed between them. Choose the best- placed shoots of medium size, and remove every- thing which is not required for next season's crop. Apple and Pear Trees in Pots. — Now that the fruits are swelling, these trees may be given a little more liberal treatment. Syringe twice daily, but never with sufficient force to injure the soft, young foliage. Water with great care, and when necessary give water in sufficient quantity to reach the extremities of the roots. Top-dress the pots with fine loam and a sprinliling of artificial manure. Plants Under Glass. Deutzia gracilis. — These plants may be culti- cated in pots for a number of years, providing they are carefully pruned and thinned out after flower- ing. The plants should then be placed in a warm, moist atmosphere until the new growths are fully developed, when they ought to be removed to cooler quarters and gradually hardened and prepared for plunging out of doors. Fuchsias. — Young plants raised from cuttings should now be ready for their final potting. The compost may consist of turfy loam, leaf-mould and cow-manure, with a good sprinkling of rough sand. Grow the plants in a warm, moist atmo- sphere, and use the syringe freely. If standards are required, strong, straight plants must be selected and neatly staked. All side shoots should be removed until the plant has reached the necessary height, when the top ought to be removed The Flower Garden. Antirrhinums. — Plants raised from early sown seed will now be ready for planting in their flowering quarters. If distinct colours are desired, it may be necessary to examine the foliage of each plant to make quite certain it is of the proper type. For dwarf varieties a space of 12 inches will be sufficient between the plants, but for tall-growing sorts 18 inches should be allowed. East Lothian Stocks may be planted out as soon as the plants are of suitable size, allowing a space of 15 inches between the plants. Water freely and make the soil firm about the roots. Gladioli. — If these have been forwarded in pots, no time should be lost in placing them in their flowering quarters, making the soil as firm as possible about the roots without breaking the ball of soil in which they have been started into growth. As soon as the flower-stems are of sufficient height, secure them to a strong stick. Shrubs. — Late-planted shrubs should be freely watered during dry weather and the stems syringed late in the afternoon. A mulching of decayed manure may be applied with advantage previous to watering witli clear, soft water. Plants for Summer Bedding. — Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, Heliotropes and all plants intended for summer bedding ought to be removed to cooler quarters and prepared for planting in the flower- beds when the proper time arrives. During the next few weeks it will be necessary to examine the plants several times daily, in order to avoid injury from want of moisture at the roots. Sweet Peas. — A sowing may be made now for the supply of blooms during August and September. If sowrx in the open, the soil should be thoroughly prepared before the seeds are placed in the ground ; but if pots and space are available, the plants may be raised imder glass and planted out when sufficiently advanced. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Mulching. — There should be no delay in mulch- ing recently planted fruit trees. This ought to be accomplished before watering. It may be advisable to leave one or two fruits on recently planted trees in order to test the variety, but nothing beyond this should be attempted the first season, or the trees will become stunted, and may be perma- nently injured in consequence. Strawberries. — The protection of strawberry- flowers from frost is an important matter, especially in low-lying districts. On early borders it is an easy matter to cover the plants with blinds, which should be available in all gardens where early fruits are expected. In the open garden consider- able protection may be afforded by placing a quantity of dry stable litter loosely between the plants ; this will protect them from cold wind, and, in the event of frost, may be lightly sprinkled over the foliage. It may eventually be used to mulch the bed and protect the fruits from splashing by heavy rain. The Kitchen Garden. French Beans. — Plants in pots from which supplies are bemg gathered will not require much fire-heat, but should be well supplied with manure- water. Syringe the foliage twice daily, or red spider may prove troublesome. Plants in heated pits ought to be freely ventilated, and the bed should be thoroughly watered whenever necessary. Further plantations may be made in cold pits to afford supplies before they are available from the open garden. Beetroot. — Early sown Beet in pits should be freely ventilated to keep it from becoming drawn. Allow a space of 6 inches between the plants, and water the bed freely with clear, soft water. Make frequent small sowings of Tumip-rooted Beet from now until the middle of July ; these will prove useful during the summer and autumn. The principal sowing of long-rooted Beet may be made now. Celery. — Continue to prick out young Celery plants on a sheltered border for planting in the trenches in June, and take the earliest opportunity to prepare the trenches so that the plants may be put out as soon as large enough. Water freely with soft, clear water, and damp the plants over- head until they are quite established in the trenches. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Beet. — In most districts it is now quite safe to make the principal sowing, which in many instances is the only one. Sow in drills .1 foot to r5 inches apart and 2 inches deep in ground that has been well manured the previous season. Thin out as soon as the plants can be handled. I do not advise transplanting the thinnings, as, unless in very favourable weather, I have not seen them ever come to much. Wliere the seed has not come up well, it is much better to sow a little more seed in the blanks. These will come early enough to make nice, serviceable roots. Turnips. — A larger breadth may now be sown, but avoid doing so in continual dry weather, which would assuredly be a source of disappoint- ment. The better plan is to sow when there is a prospect of rain or immediately after showery weather. The Flower Garden. Planting Hollies. — In our Northern climate these may be planted from now till the beginning of June ; indeed, I have seen large numbers of fine specimens moved up to the second week of that month, with the best results. Of course, with these, as with other choice shrubs, the plant- ing will have to be done with the greatest care. If there should be any doubt of their suiYering from the shift, go over them carefully and cut out a branch here and there where it will be least observed. This will ease the plant considerably. Bamboos. — These graceful evergreens, which play such an important part in the beautifying of our gardens, may now be divided and replanted. Where one has difficulty in getting them to grow satisfactorily, it may be pointed out that they should be sheltered from the cold north-east winds and partially shaded. Should the natural soil not be quite suitable, this can be made good by taking out pits 2 feet deep and a sufficient width, and making them up with good garden soil mixed with some well-rotted manure. After plant- ing, the plants should be well watered and mulched with some stable manure. With a suitable selection of hardy varieties, there is no reason why they should not thrive almost in any district. Box Edges. — From now till the end of the month is perhaps the best time to have all Box edges clipped. It is, however, no uncommon thing to see this work being done as early as March. This is a great mistake, as if done so early in the season the plants are sure to suffer from frost, and present a wliitened appearance. Pansies and Violas. — Continue to pick the flower-buds off as they appear for some little time yet. This will enable the plants to become well established, and they will not be so likely to be affected by drought. Border Carnations wUi be greatly benefited by a dressing of soot between the rows, and after- wards have the soil stirred with the Dutch hoe. This may be repeated during the growing season. Varieties of the King Arthur type, which produce little or no grass, should in a number of cases have the flower-spike pinched to induce the plants to break and produce grass for layering. Plants Under Glass. Primulas. — Where more than one batch of these serviceable greenhouse plants are required, a sowing may be made now. The compost should consist of equal parts of leaf-mould and loam, with the addition of a little silver sand. This must be pressed moderately firm in the seed-pan and watered some time previous to sowing. The seed should be sown very thinly, have the merest covering of fine soil, and afterwards be placed in the warmest part of the greenhouse. Cyclamen. — The strongest of the young plants will now be ready for potting on, and must be kept near the glass to promote a sturdy growth. It is of the utmost importance that the young plants be kept free from aphis, as if allowed to get a foothold at this stage they never do much good. To keep them free it will be necessary to fumigate them frequently. Shade them during the hottest part of the day and pot on the remainder as they are ready. Dendrobiiun nobile. — This beautiful Orchid, so easy of cultivation, will now be making its growth, and should have attention. Some of the plants will require potting, others top-dressing ; but they should not be disturbed at the roots more than is necessary. Remove them to the warmest part of the plant stove, where they will get plenty of light, and, if they are established in baskets, they may be watered freely and syringed several times a day to keep down red spider and thrip. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Swelling Fruits. — .-^s the fruits of all wall trees begui to swell, a good coating of manure should be placed round each tree, and, w'here at all possible, be given a good soaking. Continue to examine trees just set and reduce the bunches considerably. The practical man will have no difficulty in knowing which to retain. Strawberries. — Plants m pots that have been moderately forced may be planted out in a prepared bed and well watered. These will often give a supply of fruit in the late autumn, whicli will be immensely appreciated. On account of the roots being matted together, the plants must be kept supplied with water duruig the season. Fruits Under Glass. Figs. — The fruit in the earliest house will be ripening, and must have less moisture and more air admitted. Trees swelling the fruit will require abundant supplies of water, besides frequent doses of liquid manure. Thin out and stop shoots to avoid overcrowding, as each shoot must be fully exposed to the sun to develop the next crop. Vines. — There will be much to do in the vineries during the next few weeks. In the earliest house the Grapes will be colouring, and these will require abundance of air, while in succession houses the Grapes will be swelling and the latest varieties will now be breaking. Keep a sharp look-out for those destructive weevils which play such havoc with the foliage. Where they are troublesome, the best time to search for them is just as darkness is coming on. Thej' will be foimd on the back wall, and if newspapers are placed under the rods, they can be caught by givuig the rods a sharp tap, when they will fail into the paper. They should then be collected and destroyed. John Highgate. (Head-gardener to the Marquis of Lin'ithgt^w.) Hopcloun Gardens, Soiilli Qiurns/erry, N.H. May 9, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 235 SEASONABLE NOTES ON AURICULAS. THIS month the plants will be getting past their best, and the earlier-flowering varieties are nearly over. The flowers should be pinched off at the top of the truss and the stem allowed to gradually die and dry up, when it can be easily removed later on. Repotting. — I always like to have the bulk of the repotting done during the month of May, and usually begin directly the plants have passed the flowering stage. The rooting medium should consist of the best fibrous loam three parts and leaf-mould one part, to which is added a sprinkling of sharp sand or crushed oyster shells. A 6-inch potful to every bushel of the mixture will be ample. Where the loam is of poor quality, a little decayed manure or bone-meal may be in- corporated in the compost. This must not, however, be overdone, and for the benefit of the beginner I may state that a 4-inch potful of bone- meal to each bushel of soil will be sufficient ; but with decayed manure, such as may be obtained from an old hot-bed, the careful grower is not likely to exceed the limit. How to Repot, — Large pots are not required, and for fully grown plants I should select a receptacle about four inches in diameter, with, perhaps, a pot half an inch larger for exceptionally fine specimens. Smaller examples should be placed in pots just large enough to comfortably take the roots. The best pots for Auriculas are those of the long thumb pattern, and are usually supplied without rims and not glazed. Good drainage is most essential, and the pots can be filled one-third of their depth with clean potsherds, over which is arranged a thin layer of fibrous loam to secure a free outlet for water. Both the pots and the drainage material must be quite clean, and if they have been previously used for Auriculas, a good scrubbing will be needed to remove all traces of the woolly aphis. Having prepared the soU and pots, the repotting may be commenced. All the old drainage is taken away and most of the soil, but I do not agree with the method of shaking all the compost out and washing the roots in a concoction of soft soap and water. Enough soil, however, must be removed so that the tap-root can be examined, and if the end is decayed, it should be cut back to the living tissue and then rubbed over with a little powdered charcoal or lime. In all probability the roots will be partially covered with the woolly aphis, but the amateur need not be alarmed, as it is very questionable whether this pest does any harm. Before disturbing the ball of soil 1 just go over the roots with methylated spirit or Tobacco powder if this pest is present, and most, if not all, of the aphides are destroyed. The plants are placed in the pots so that the leaves are near the soil, which is made moderately firm, leaving sufficient space for watering purposes. After-Treatment. — This I shall deal with more fully next month. For the present keep the plants shaded from all strong sunlight till they are re-established. A good watering will be needed after they have been arranged in their growing quarters, and afterwards they must only have enough water to just keep them from drooping. T. W. Briscoe. SCHOOL FLOWER SHOWS IN SPRING. FOR the last seven or eight years we have had, every spring, a show of bulbs grown in pots at our small school. During three years of this time we were fortunate in having Mr. Charles Hodson as our master, for he did much to develop it, and to him we owe much of our success. Twelve months ago he left to take charge of the large and important boys' school at Paddock, which is now practically part of Huddersfield. Thither he has trans- planted our show. On Saturday, March 7, the offset bloomed. I was there to see it, and the result gave me a very great deal of pleasure and satisfaction. I came away feeling more than ever that all such shows are an admirable adjunct to the ordinary curriculum of a school. Children, parents, grandparents, friends, old scholars, educational big-wigs, inspectors, school managers, clergy and teachers filled the room. for their own sake, which in turn may, I hope, become the foundation of a hobby which for rich and poor alike is surely among those that are the most lasting, pleasure-giving and practic- able of all. The illustration on this page gives one a very good idea of how the schoolroom and desks may be arranged. If the competitive classes of the children can be supplemented by a display from a neighbouring greenhouse, or if some cut flowers can be begged for selling, it will add to the interest. The success of the display naturally depends upon the varieties of bulbs chosen for the children to grow. Tulips are always the difficulty, and I do not recommend these until the children have become familiar with growing Daffodils and Hyacinths. I have also found by experience that either the last Satmrday in February or the first one in March are the best dates for the show. The two main items of expense are the pro- vision of prizes and the purchase of bulbs. We generally at my own school give four prizes, or sometimes five, in each class. As a rule, they are one shilling, ninepence, sixpence and threepence. A DAFFODIL SHOW IN A SCHOOLROOM. rubbed shoulders, looked at the flowers, and generally hobnobbed and talked. Thus partition walls of aloofness and prejudice are broken down, interest is kindled and stimulated, opportunities for home visits by the head teacher and his assistants are given, and a day quite out of the ordinary is forthwith established, which is looked forward to both by teachers and children as one of the red-letter days of the school year. To the above add the esprit de corps which all these tilings undoubtedly fosters, and I think I have made out a case for school shows even without any direct reference to the plants themselves. The direct benefit in teaching gardening by growing a few Tulips, Hyacinths and Daffodils in pots is very small indeed. Something about the functions of roots and leaves, the necessity for water, the influence of cold and heat, and the importance of a pure atmosphere may be picked up by the sharper children. But for the many, perhaps the most particular good that this participation in the show confers is in the having something to look after and think about in a rather dull time of the year, coupled, perchance, in certain cases with the learning to love flowers Suppose, then, that there are eight classes, the prize money would come to one pound. Again, each potful, whether it be one Hyacinth, four Daffodils or three Tulips, is sold for a penny, so there is the difference between the cost to the school and the selling price to the children to be made up. By the way, sales should always be effected under colour and never under name. I close these notes with a list of what I have found by practical experience to be the best varieties of each to grow, having due regard to price and dissimilarity : Tulips.. — Vermilion Brilliant and possibly La Reine. Daffodils. — Golden Spur, obvallaris, princeps. Queen Bess, Sir Watkin and Telamonius plenus. Polyanthus Narcissus. — Dr. Holland, Mont Cenis and Alsace (Poetaz). Hyacinths. — L'Innocence, General de Wet, Marie, Oranje Boven, Schotel, R. Steiger, Grand Maitre and Lady Derby— really, I may say any variety that opens well and has a strong stem. A list of bulbs suitable for growing for a first show with eight classes is here appended : Daffodils (three in a pot, except Queen Bess).- — Golden Spur, prin- ceps. Queen Bess (four in a pot) and Sir Watkin. 236 THE GARDEN. [May 9, 1914 Polyanthus Narcissus (three in a pot). — Dr. Holland. Hyacinths (one in a pot). — L'Innocence (white), Schotel (pale blue) and General de Wet (pale pink). If only six classes are required, leave out Queen Bess and Sir Watkin. If twelve classes are wanted, add Tulip (three or four in a pot) Vermilion Brilliant ; Hyacinths Oranje Boven and Grand Maltre ; and Poetaz (three in a pot) Alsace. The most useful-sized pots are 4-inch, 5-inch and 6-inch. Joseph Jacob. [We are pleased to publish iVIr. Jacob's article, and hope that it will induce others to hold similar shows. Those who have never seen it cannot realise the vast amount of pleasure that a child obtains from cultivating a few bulbs in pots. It is summed up in those magic words of pride : " I have growed them myself." Mr. Jacob will be glad to give anyone assistance who is con- templating starting a show of this kind. — Ed.] FILMY FERNS FOR A STRUCTURE. COOL IT is matter for surprise that the Filmy Ferns, even in large establishments, are generally conspicuous by their absence. I can only assign one reason for this, viz., that their merits have not been sufficiently brought before the public, either by vendors or writers. They are invariably foimd, with true modesty, like a King-designate of old, hiding away among other plants. Having had the privUege of servmg my apprenticeship where one stately specimen of the class (Todea superba) was grown, I have always had a warm place in my affections for the " Filmies," and have continued to cultivate a few ; most visitors who come this way are invited to have a peep at them, and few see them who do not readily appreciate their beauty. Their culture is very simple, shade and moisture being the two essential conditions. Here we grow the Todeas in a small unheated structure at the north side of the fernery, while a Trichomanes and several Hymenophyllums are gro^vn in a Wardian case in the fernery, where a warm green- house temperature is maintained ; but any of those noted below can be grown in an unheated structure if they are not subjected to more than a few degrees of frost. The Todeas are best grown in pots, but the Hymenophyllums do better in pans, and the Trichomanes can be grown m either. All of them should have perfect drainage, and they all succeed well in a compost of equal parts of turfy loam, turfy peat, rough Oak or Beech leaf-mould and sand, with a liberal admixture of rough charcoal and sandstone. They may remam undisturbed for several years. As already indicated, they love shade, and from early March to late September they should be heavily shaded. With regard to watering, they should be sprayed once or twice daily durmg summer and every few days during winter, according to weather conditions and the character and location of the structure. Water must also be supplied liberally at the roots, especially in the case of the Todeas. The following are grown here, and can all be heartily recommended for cool treatment : Todea superba and T. pellucida— these two require ample room, as under suitable conditions they develop fronds over two feet in length ; Hymeno- phyllum demissum, H. tunbridgense and Tricho- manes radicans Andrewsii, an improved variety of the Killamey Fern. Charles Comfort. Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian. EDITORIAL NOTICES. Evenj department of horticulture is represented in The Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions relating to matters upon which they wish expert advice. The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and tiotes, but he will not be responsible for their safe return. All reasonable care, however, toill be taken, and ivhere stamps are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted contributions. As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor asks thai the price required for reproduction be plainly staled. It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo- grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with. The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an article is accepted. Publication in The Garden ivill alone be recognised as acceptance. Offices : 20. Tavistock Street. Covcnt Garden. TT.C ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. We liave seen this olj Hose covering lofty house fronts in Devonshire, making a glorious show, and the i.runing adopted has generallv been carried out with the siiears. We planted several plants of this Kose last year quite late, and cut them back Hard, with the result that we had flne clusters from the extreme ends of the new growths, and, as you say. with glorious foliage. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS. -TAe Editor iiilemis to make THE GARDES helpful to all readers who desire assist- ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and loith that object will make a speeial feature of the "Answers to Correspondents " columns. All communications sjiould be clearly and concisely written on one side of tlie paper only, and aJdressed to the EDITOR of THE GARDEN, 20. Tai'istock Street, Corent Garden, London. W.C. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation lie may desire to be used in the paper. Wlie.n more than one query is sent, each sitould be on a separate piece of paper. Plants for naming sliould be clearly numbered and securely packed in damp grass or moss, not colton-icool. and flowering slioots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send sjnall scraps tliat are not characteristic of the plant. Letters on business should be sent to the PrBLISHER. FLOWER GARDEN. VIOLETS NOT DOING WELL (0. R ).— We fear we cannot s;iv what tlie cause uf the trouble is without seeing the specimens, but we tliink your best plan would be to make up quite new beds before starting the plants in the frames, keep them thoroughly ventilated, and make sure water never stands about their crowns. IRIS RETICULATA {V . S. A.).— It you permit the plants to mature tlieir season's groivth and lift the bulbs any time between the middle of June and the middle of July, no harm will ensue. The larger bulbs will then flower in 1915 quite weU. It is important that tlic bulbs are not sun-dried, that is, spread out in the sun to dry, and equally important that they are not kept too long out of the soil. If you give the bulbs a maximum period of one month's rest, keeping them meantime in a pot of quite dry sand, they will be quite safe. Kept too long in the dry state, a spr-cies of dry-rot overtakes the bulbs and they perish in the soil after planting. When replanting, employ a liberal depth of sandy loam and avoid crude manures. ROSE GARDEN. BANKSIAN ROSE NOT FLOWERING {F. S.).— You must not prune the small twiggy growths; but if the tree is too smothered with big shoots, cut some quite out t,o their base, so as to allow sun and air to enter freely. If you could train the tree into a sort of bower, we think you would soon obtain blooms in your part of the world. The Dorothy Perkins should have some of its main growths trained horizontally, and if there is a dense mass of gro\vths, cut out some of the very oldest at once. The small shoots springing from the main growths should be cut back to two or three eves, excepting some which may be stronger than the other's. These you can retain from 12 inches to 18 inches in length. PRUNING A SWEET BRIAR HEDGE {E. C.).— It is usual to prune hedges o£ Sweet Briar after the flowers are over, but, providing you do not mind losing a certain nufaber of flowers, the work may be done at once. Cut as much of the old wood out as possible, and tie the younger branches mto position in order to keep the fence of uniform density. Towards the end of the summer go over the hedge again and remove or shorten any branches, where necessary, thus leaving it tidy for the winter. If you require to mcrease your stock of Violets, leave a sutticient number of runuers for your purpose ; but if you tliink that you can procure all the plants you require by dividing the old ones, then remove all the runners at once, for they will oidy tend to weaken the old plants. PRUNING ROSE REVE D'OR (£. L. ./., Croydon).— Yes ■ our correspondent was right in his advice. 01 course, you would not cover your wall so quickly by cutting back the annual growths so hard as recommended on page lo4, but you would obtain blooms of a superior quality from the ends of the long growths. There would, doubtless, be some flowerless growths, but if these were pinched in the autumn they would ripen well and flower the next year. THE GREENHOUSE. INJURY TO PELARGONIUMS iZonal).—TlK Pelar- goniums liave apparentlv been grown in a moist atmo- sphere with rather a higli temperature. This has made the leaves sappy, and immediately tlie plants suiter, if only for a short time, from drraess at the root, or arc stood" in a dry atmosphere or in a draught, the leaves lose more water than thev can afford, with the consequence that they " burn," as those sent have done. The remedy, of course, lies in checking the rapid growtli of the foliage by altering the conditions. CULTIVATION OF LOTUS PLANTS [Lady Beaumont).— Lotus plants should be grown in luaniy soil in shallow water in a greenhouse where a tropical temperature can be maintained. The best results are secured when the plants can be grown in a tank, the soil coming to within a few inches of the surface of the water, and a constant supply of fresh water maintained. Fah results may also be obtained by planting the roots in tubs, providing care is taken to give fresh water daily. Use four parts good fibrous loam and one part leaf-mould with silver sand about the roots. The plants resent frequent root disturbance, therefore care must be taken to plant them permanently when they are first put out. Full sun is necessary to success. FRUIT GARDEN. CHERRY BLOSSOM STERILE (J. H.).— The cause of the flowers not setting, we think, lies in their qu.ahty. If vou will examine them closely, you wall probably find that there is very little poUen on the anthers If this is not so and the pollen is abundant and strong, there is no reason wiiy the fruit should not set freely if you will take the precaution of distributing the poUen among the flowers on dry, warm days witll a rabbit's tail so that it comes in cficctive contact -with the stigma or centre column of the flower. If it turns out that the qualitv of the flowers is at fault, your best way is to take up" the trees and replant them in rather lighter soil (althou!:li the Cherry likes a strong sod), adding plenty of drainage, and planting the top roots of the trees practi- caUv on a level with the surface soil, mounding up the surface soirto a height of 5 inches. This should be done im- mediatelv after the trees shed their leaves. THE VINE AND ITS AERIAL ROOTS (£. D.).— This is a common experience with the Vine, especially with those Vines which are gctthig old. The prmiary cause, we think arises from the fact of the root action being too sluggish and weak to support the crop of foliage and fnut. caiSing the Vines to throw out these roots (aerial) for further help, the growth of which the moist air of the vinery encourages. Vines are sometimes propagated by these " porcupine fibres," as you call them. .All you have to do is to tie a 5-inch flower-pot full of soil at the junction of a shoot from which the roots emanate. This must be done on the first appearance of the roots. At the end of the summer the pot will be lull of roots, and the shoot to which they are attached may then be severed from the Vine, and at once becomes a detached entity. The way to prevent their recurrence is to renew the Vine borders in autumn with proper \ inesoU. MISCELLANEOUS. INJURY FROM CREOSOTE FUMES (E. i.).— It is highly probable that the creosote fumes have been the source of the trouble. Could you not take the plants out and beat the house up for a while? lailmg this, standing pails of water about m the house may help to absorb the fumes. TO CLEAR A POND OF ALGffi (G. S. C.).— All that you can do towards clearing your pond of Alga is to use copper sulphate at the rate of one part to from 750,000 to 1,000,000 parts of water. At this strength it is unlikely to injure tlie pUants round about, neither will it have any serious eltect upon the water in the well, ine same chemical is used in some countries for clearing reservoirs of drinking water from w-eeds of the Algffi type Water LUies will grow among the weed but will not smother it ; in fact, the weed m the end mil probably exorcise a more harmful influence upon the Lihes than tile Lilies upon the weed. TOMATOES IN BOXES <,Nemo).—VoT single plants a box 1 foot long. 10 inches wide, and 5 inches or a inches deep mil be large enough. Top-dressings of sml and manure may be added in due course. If two or more SaSts are grown in a box, the latter should al ord accoiumo- dation for the plants in due proportion, the boi for a ,in"le plant being taken as a guide. ' NAMES OF PhMiTS.—Bramford.—-Pyias spectabihs. _JlrNi7he—l Helleborus foetidus ; 2, Bdlbergia nutans. Cherry— I, Pruuus scrrulata ; 2, Lonicera punioea. as "a — Orchis mascula. Qudit/i. G/o».— Daphne pontica;' quite hardy,, thrives best hi «'""lj--— ^„f •; Sleaford — Staphy ca puinata. 0. O.— 1, Piunus J:'auu3 fSd Ciierrv) ; 2, Albuca fastigiata ; 3, Arthropodium urhatiL.— iJ.-^(<.r B«,d.r-Tbe Tulip ;^,, "" »"i. "»" named garden variety. It somewbal resembles Eosc Dor^e. f0 ts are a valuable section of our spring- flowering plants, their blue colour making such a pleasing contrast to the yellow of the Narcissi which bloom at the same time in my garden, the Myosotis forming a neat and charming carpet through which the Daffodils push up. Of the several Forget-me-nots now seen in the alpine garden, the form of M. alpestris known as rupicola (or is it a species ?) is very dwarf and attractive ; while another of considerable charm and becoming deservedly popular is the variety Ruth Fischer, having particularly bright-coloured flowers with a yellow centre. For the bog, M. CEespitosa Disease in Cllionodoxas. — I am much inter- ested in the note by .Mr. Hadden and your editorial remarks upon it on page 215, issue May 2. The fact that Ustilago Vaillanti occurs on Chiono- doxas was first made known to me by some bulbs being sent me by Mr. Edward Whittall of Smvnia, with a remark to the effect that they had a " smoke-coloured eye." On their flowering, the centre of the flower was seen to be filled with grey fungoid growth, and Mr. Whittall afterwards wrote to inform me that the " smoke-coloured eye " was caused by this fimgoid disease. On observing it I pinched off the flower, but the following year the fungus again appeared. In some follow-, ing seasons the same thing happened, but I never saw any other plants, either of Chionodoxa or Scilla, affected with this Ustilago in my garden. As the disease appeared to be persistent in the bulbs, I lifted and destroyed them, in case they MYOSOTIS RUTH FISCHER. THIS HAS BRIGHT BLUE FLOWERS WITH YELLOW CENTRES. Rehsteineri is a delightful subject, producing its brilliant Eritrichium-like flower ij inches to 2 inches above the soil, and spreading in a close matted carpet over the moist earth. — Reginald Malby. Iris piunila. — The illustration on page 225 of last week's issue shows clearly that the Iris in question is not I. pumila but I. Chamairis, for the plant apparently produces a stem of several inches in length. This is I. Chamaeiris from the South of France and North Italy. The true I. pumila has practically no stem, but a perianth tube of 2 inches or 3 inches in length. I. pumila is in many localities even more variable in colour than 1. Chamaeiris, which in some districts is all yellow, in others all purple, while in others, again, many colour varieties are found growing together. Ur! fortunately, the true 1. pumila is comparatively rare in cultivation.. — W. R. Dykes, Charterhouse, Godalming.. affected others. The bulbs were those of Chiono- doxa sardensis. Your advice to remove the affected plants as soon as seen is excellent, and should be followed. — .S. Arnott, Dumfries. Primulas Causing Rash. — I should like to call the attentifiii ')f y(»ur readers to the danger attend- ing the growing of Primula obconica and P. malacoides. I have grown these plants in my conservatory for a number of years, and they have been a great sou"ce of pleasure to me, as well as being most useful for table decoration. My gardener has worked among them with the greatest freedom for many years, but this year he was attacked most severely with a rash, which caused great suffering and sleeplessness. I had, therefore, much to my regret, to destroy over fifty fine plants. May I suggest to anyone growing these plants that gloves should be worn while handling them ? In addition to the above-named Primulas, 1 have grown P. kewensis. I should feel glad if any of your readers would recommend any new Primula suitable for growing inside in winter which would be free from this danger of rash. — J. D. Aster Disease. — In your issue of the 4th ult.,^ page 167, there is a corroboration from a Kentish reader, " T. W.," of my advice re treating China Asters as hardy annuals ; he then arraigns me for advising non-thinning of the seedlings. I do advise it, where necessary, but in the great majority of cases the seed is too scarce to make a thick sowing ; also I was more concerned with disease prevention than with general culture, and wittingly used the words "neither transplanted nor thinned," because I have purposely left very thick sowings as an experiment to see if the decrease of stamina so caused would render the plants susceptible to- disease, but found it was not so, and in each case the quality of the bloom surpassed my expectations,, considering their crowded condition. Moreover, against the theory that the disease is largely caused by the plants getting leggy in the seed-boxes, it is a well- kno^vn practice in many under- staffed gardens to sow half-hardy annuals so thinly in the seed-boxes that the pricking off process may be omitted. Under these circum- stances the young plants have no chance of becoming leggy, and yet I know from experience that Asters so treated are unreliable, and, apart from this, it would not account for large thriving plants — the picture of health and often actually in bloom — collapsing and dying in an hour or so. — F. JI. S., East Yorks. Saxifraga burseriana and its^ Varieties. — If I should be. one of the perpetrators who have used ttie word " type" in a misleading sense,. I beg " E. H. J.'s" (page 215) for- giveness, asking him to put the blunder down to my inexact know- ledge of English. I now see I should have spoken of " species " for these, as they occur in Nature. I meant to refer to it in my note (page 179, April 11). I am, however, pleased " E. H. J." referred to the late Mr. Selfe Leonard as having been the first to introduce improved types " from a new locality," for this com- mendation reflects some of its rays on my mediation. In the spring of 1897 Mr. Selfe Leonard recei\'ed from me a large consignment of S. burseriana, in reference to- which he wrote me in the ensuing spring that by it he had made a most satisfactory purchase, the majority of the plants having proved to be the variety major. Since that time I have, almost annually, supplied plants to England, collected in that same locality, and cannot help thinking] that to varieties selected from these consignments! the big names now existing have been given. I do not know whether S. burseriana is raised from seeds to any extent in England. I had the advantage of accompanying Mr. Selfe Leonard on a pleasant trip in the Tyrol in the summer of 1897, and on his untimely death afterwards I have, in memory of this gentleman's genial personality, kept his catalogue by me ever since. In this catalogue is figured a plant of S. bur.seriana major, the photograph of which I have no doubt was taken from one of those plants supplied io him bv me. — E. Heinrich, Planegg. Bavaria. May i6, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 239 Gentiana acaulis Sporting. — We have in this nursery a bed of Gentiana acaulis raised from seed. I notice among this bed one plant which I am sure IS of interest to alpine plant growers. There are two flowers on this plant, which has only one head, and one flower is pure blue and the other an absolutely pure white. It is not a case of two seedlings planted together. I wonder if any other readers of The Garden have had a similar freak, as it must he. — R. R. H. Hayes, Alpine Gardens, Keswick. Winter Treatment of Gentiana verna. — Last year I read in The Garden a note from Mr. R. A. Malby advising that Gentiana verna should be covered with glass during the winter. I put glass not only over some plants of G. verna, but also over some of G. acaulis last autumn. The result has been eminently satisfactory, as the covered plants have flowered bountifully this spring, while those in the same bed which received no such attention have not a bloom upon them. I am very grateful to Mr. Malby for the " tip " he gave The Garden readers. Most probably he has gone far to solve the diffi- culty many people have with these capricious plants. — W. A. Bilney. Hardiness of Arabis aubrietioides. — I observe that some say that Arabis aubrietioides is as hardy as the common white Arabis or Rock Cress. 1 must take exception to this, as A. aubrietioides is not so hardy, and will not stand some severe winters in which both A. alpina and A. albida are unharmed. It should, I think, except in the warmer parts of the United Kingdom, have a more sheltered position than need be given the other Arabises. It is acceptable to many because of its delicate pink flowers. It is of looser habit than most of the Aubrietias, but for the shade of colour I should prefer Aubrietia Bridesmaid to Arabis aubrietioides. The latter is, however, a freer-growing subject, and looks well over the stones of the rock garden. It is increased by division of old plants or by cuttings or seeds. — S. Arnoti. Dumfries, N.B Too-Mueh-Alike Auriculas. — I have analysed the price-lists of four of the principal specialists of this lovely spring flower, and find enumerated in the show section thirty green-edged, twenty- four grey-edged, twenty-two white-edged and forty sells, also one hundred and sixty alpines, all deemed worthy to bear names. It is safe to say that not more than 15 per cent, of the above are ever entered for competition. Is it that the remainder are not up to show form, or is it (as in the case of Sweet Peas) a question of too much alike ? Will one of the cognoscenti whose articles in your valued paper have done so much to popularise this flower, and whose advice has been so valuable to all interested in its culture, favour ns with a select list of alpines, limited to those of very distinct coloration and omitting high-priced novelties ? I am convinced that such a list would be much appreciated by very many enthusiastic but short-pursed novices such as — Taplow. Two Good Late Daffodils. — For the purposes of this note I exclude the Poeticus varieties, and refer to what are usually termed " Daffodils " by ninety-nine people out of a hundred. Those who wish to have as long a flowering season as possible may be glad to make a note of Amber and Stead- fast as two of the very latest to bloom. Both belong to the peerless (2b) section, of which Lady Margaret Boscawen is a well-known example. Steadfast might be a small sister wearing the same cut and same coloured clothes. Amber has longer and narrower perianth segments, and a much narrower cup or corona, which is of a deep amber shade of yellow, in some years almost an orange. Both varieties are robust growers, and as useful for cutting as in the garden, for they have fairly long stalks. I grow a variety called Lady Jellicoe, which is the counterpart of Amber, except that the coronals of a slightly deeper shade — at least I think it is, but the difference is very small. If anyone grows or laiows both of these (Amber and Lady Jellicoe), I would be very much obliged if they would send a short note about them to The Garden. — Joseph Jacob. Newly Planted Ctiionodoxas. — In view of the evidence which appeared upon page 202, I think I owe to the author of the original note upon Chionodoxa sardensis an admission that he is correct in stating it as a general rule that this delightful spring bulb flowers better when established than when freshly planted. With reference to the Rev. Joseph Jacob's query, I may say that my experience of this season's bulbs is not an exceptional one. I well remember that the first bulbs I ever planted, viz., about seven or eight years ago, flowered more vigorously than they have ever done since. I attributed this to the fact that they partly exhausted their strength in ripening a large quantity of seed. But as to the colour of Chionodoxas, 1 am adamant. Not all the colourmen in the world shall persuade me that the blue of Gentiana acaulis, G. verna, G. bavarica, G. septemfida and others is to be found in the Chionodoxa. There are a few plants with which I am acquainted, such as Tecophylaja cya' ocrocus and Tillandsia Lindeiii, for example, which possibly possess blue of a similar intensity. But this is not suflicient. The unique value of gentian blue lies in its metallic or mineral quality. You find the same quality in certain butterflies, most notably in a few Malaysian species. You find it in certain minerals, and, lastly, in freshly tempered steel. I have puzzled in vain to discover why the Gentian should possess this peculiar quality. Glorious as is the blue of the Chionodoxa, the Anchusa (Dropmore) and such other pure blue flowers as Neniophila insignis, Cyananthus lobatus, Muscari Heavenly Blue and the Scillas, it is merely blue. Gentian blue is something more, not merely by reason of greater intensity, but by reason of its heavenly lustre. Why should Mr. Jacob call upon me to furnish a name for the blue of Chionodoxa ? Is it bluer than the Scillas ? Let us, rather than have to adopt the clumsy expedient of referring to " Scilla " blue, " Chiono- doxa " blue and so forth, unite our efforts to crush the monsters who call Veilchenblau the " blue Rose " ; who talk of the " blue " Gladiolus ; who, having progressively applied the sacred term " blue " to every conceivable shade of purple, mauve and lilac, will in all human proba- bility proceed next to commit the final desecra- tion of applying it to magenta. Were we once to rescue " blue " from the hands of these fiends and restore it to its pristine significance, there would be no need to invent fresh colour descrip- tions.— Raymond E. Negus, Walion-on-Thames. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. May 19. — Royal Horticultural Society's Spring Show at the Royal Hospital Gardens, Chelsea (three days). Devon County Sliow (three days). May 20. — National Tulip Society's Show at Chelsea (two days). SWEET PEA NOTES. THE succession of brilliant sunny days of the past weeks has done much to mitigate the dire effects of the miserable weather of the preceding month. Sweet Peas under glass have revelled in the sunshine and the air that could be so freely given them, and, on the whole, the prospects of a better Sweet Pea year are most promising. Sweet Peas Flowering Earlier. — A few years ago it was considered exceptional to have a few Sweet Pea blooms exhibited at the Temple Show, but in mid-April I saw some magnificent blossoms. Messrs. Dobbie and Co. have Sweet Peas the equal of which I have never seen at this period of the year, and we may expect a fine exhibit from them at the forthcoming London Show. Certainly the lovers of Sweet Peas owe a debt of gratitude to a grower like Mr. Andrew Ireland, with whom " streak " is unknown, and who proves conclusively that the Sweet Pea can be grown successfully both in the open and under glass, and that it does not require exceptional treatment, a fallacy still too rampantly prevalent. When will some readers realise the fact that successful blossoms can only be obtained if the root action is freely active and healthy ? The gardener can know no set time for any particular operation, and more especially so the Sweet Pea grower. The soil must be in a fit condition, or the plants will not thrive. Therefore the man who, because it was March, and in spite of the rain, worked his soil, now finds that it is a mass of huge solid lumps, totally unusable. The precious Peas are shrivelling away, and success this year is impossible. Many are the grumbles one has heard during the past weeks, and all due to the fact enumerated above. Abuse of Manures. — The\ market is flooded with " prepared plant foods," and an indiscriminate use of these will produce untold trouble and loss. At once let it be stated that Sweet Peas do not require gorging with stimulants. If a slight dressing of superphosphate, bone-meal and soot has been forked into the top soil previous to planting out, then nothing more is required until the first crop of flowers has been gathered. If a spell of very dry weather should set in in June, then watering with very weak soot-water is beneficial. By the way, a word of warning here may not be without profit. Soot-water such as I have often seen used — • a thick, slimy, black slush, which leaves a coating upon the surface of the soil — is a positive danger. Soot should be put into a bag and the whole immersed in water, which extracts all the nutritive values, but the water remains only slightly coloured. This is the condition in which it should be used. A Suggestion. — The notes on Sweet Peas that appear in The Garden might occasionally be made more interesting if readers would forward any notes on difficulties or observations to the Editor. Many varieties of Sweet Peas differ in vigour of growth and colour of flower in different localities — sjme soils are specially suited for some varieties, while there are many varieties that require special treatment when given outdoor culture. These or any other points could be considered and fully discussed, and would be a welcome variety from a general article. Finally, every Sweet Pea lover should join the National Sweet Pea Society. In spite of what has been said about it, this society ii flourishing and doing a great deal of good work. Tne secretary is Mr. H. T. Tigwell, Greenford, Middlesex, and the annual subscription is only 5s. S. M. Crow. 240 THE GARDEN. [May i6, 1914. SOME BEAUTIFUL WORTS. POPPY- THE MECONOPSES. (ConHimed from page 230.) A S already intimated, tiiese Poppyworts love /% moisture, or that degree of uniform root / \ coolness which is not a bad equivalent. / % In some measure, too, they prefer shade, ■^ *■ though, with root moisture assured, this would only be desirable for securing greater longevity to the flowers, while in cold districts with much rainfall, s4iade should be altogether dispensed with. In these latter, too, shade would probably militate against the produc- tion of good pollen, and, in turn, seeds. Hence, in all the circumstances, a fairly open position, with root moisture, might be regarded as best. A fairly deep bed of soil well enriched by cow-manure should always be provided, loam, peat and leaf-soil constituting the chief, with cow-manure freely added. To those whose good fortune it is to be able to harvest good supplies of seeds each year, the importance of free grouping should not be overlooked, and it would be worth a long day's journey to be able to see a few hundreds of the nobler kinds in any garden. As yet, however, such a consummation is more in the nature of a dream-picture than anything else, though of subjects so unique such an ideal is worth striving after. Moreover, the plants them- selves are so essentially worthy of specialisation, and if difficulties and disappointments bestrew the way, a greater honour and satisfaction will be the reward of he who first overcomes them. It may be, of course, that, like certain Oncocyclus Irises, these Poppies, fretting for the conditions to which for ages they have been accustomed in their native wilds, refuse to be com- forted in lowland places. But of this experience will be the best guide. The following are the best species : Meconopsis aeuleata. — A beautiful speciee from the Western Himalayas, where it is found at altitudes varying from 11,000 feet to 15,000 feet. The leaves forming the rosette are pale green, deeply and irregularly lobed, and furnished with long, tawny-coloured hairs or bristles. In cultivation the plant is rarely more than 18 inches high at fiowering-time. Flowers some- what saucer-shaped and of a purplish sheen, which contrasts well with the stamens. M. cambrica (the Welsh Poppy) is well known and needs but little recommendation. A lover of cool, moist places, free in flowering, appearmg in all sorts of places where perchance a seed or two may have fallen. It is one of the prettiest of all plants for naturalising. Though more or less perennial, it is best raised from seeds. The plant is dwarf, and produces a profusion of yellow flowers. The double orange and yellow forms are pretty variations, and there is room for more. M. chelidonifolia. — A dwarf-growing perennial species from the Thibetan frontier. The flowers are clear yellow and an inch or so in diameter. The leaves are deeply lobed and approximate in form to the Celandine (Chelidonium), hence the name. May also be increased by division. M. grandis is also of " perennial duration, happily, as it produces seed but rarely in this country. The plant comes from the Sikkim Himalayas, is of rather tall habit, and bears flowers of a purplish blue colour. M. heterophylla. — A free-growing, free-flowering annual species from California, which, producing seeds in fair abundance, is easily increased by these means. A somewhat variable kind of a foot or 18 inches high. The flowers, borne on slender stems, are red or coppery red, sometimes orange, and with a dark blotch on the petals. Quite an effective species when in flower. # .' • l.M, jN^mm ■ • • W i- ■ ,.- ■ ■..^^'^^^''O. - ■■■ * ^ '^^-'''^- ■" -■ ■ ' .^i^-. '^ ,,-""''''^5 .t^W* ' • , >■*;. ' - ":::S&: >t^ j'i^m^'-"^''.'^^^^:^' A BEAUTIFUL BLUE POPPYWORT : LATIFOLIA. MECONOPSIS SINUATA yellow M. integrifolia. — One of the most remarkable of the entire genus, and now well known to all cultivators of choice flowers. The most successful cultivator of it that I know is Mr. W. A. Milner, Totley Hall, who achieves considerable success with it year by year in his Derbyshire garden 700 feet above the sea. Mr. Milner raises the seedlings in the slight warmth already noted, and attaches importance to the method. The plant is foimd at 11,000 feet to 15,000 feet in the mouutams of China and Thibet, where it grows in endless quantities. The gri:at saucer-like flowers are of soft yellow colour, with orange- coloured anthers. The flowers vary in size, form, and in the number each plant produces. The leaves are entire, variable in size, though always covered more or less with silky hairs. It is a moisture-loving species, of about two feet high when fully grown. No member of the genus is more worthy of specialisation. M. nepalensis (Nepaul Poppy).— The plant formerly associated with this name had yellow flowers, the true plant having somewhat un- attractive flowers of reddish purple colouring. Its fine rosettes of deeply lobed, hairy leaves approximate to those of M. Wallichii, and the plant is worth growing for its foliage effects alone. M. paniculata. — This is the yellow-flowered species formerly known as M. nepalensis, and is as good among yellow-flowered sorts as M. Wallichii is among the blues. The rosette of leaves has all the characteristics of the last named, save that the leaves are shorter. The plant is fully 5 feet high, a moderate seed-bearer, and one of the most reliable 'jf the Himalayan kinds. M. sinuata latifolia.— This was at one time confused with M. aeuleata, but differs from it in its larger, longer leaves and distinctly sinuate margins. In general habit it has much in common with the other species named, and attains the same height. The flowers are blue. It is a fairly reliable seed- bearer. M. racemosa. — The flowers, which are variable in colour, are neither at- tractive nor large, those I have seen being of a nondescript purplish or lilac tone and less than 2 inches across. The plant is about two feet high, has erect, unbranched stems, the flowers largely axillary. The leaves are entire. M. Wallichii. — ^To this fine Himalayan species must be given pride of place, whether viewed in the heyday of a glorious flowering or seen awaiting that time, when the great rosettes of leaves are a picture in themselves. If this queen of the Indian Poppies never produced a flower, it would still find those who would grow it for leaf beauty alone. Well- developed rosettes of leaves may be 2 feet in diameter, the soft, tawny-coloured hairs appearing above the grey-green of the groundwork. Seen after a shower with the raindrops still upon them the effect is very beautiful. In its highest perfection the plant may attain 6 feet to 8 feet, and with its noble pyramid of flowers is imposuig indeed. The flowers vary from pale blue to purplish shades, the former the more desirable because of the glistening sheen- like effects with which they are hence seeds should be saved from these alone. With artificial pollination seeds of good quality arc fairly abundant and vegetate freely. M. Delavayl and M. Rudis arc recently introduced kinds not yet generally known, and there is also the quaint and brilliant-flowered M. punicea, one of Mr. Wilson's finds, which, if not now lost to cultivation, is at least extremely rare. Thus we have presented to us in a solitary genus species possessing quaintness, interest, or rare beauty sufficient, it would appear, to satisfy all tastes, whUe the innate fickleness or fastidious- ness of some should provide for the problem- solver food for thought and material for experiment for many days. E. H. Jenkins. endowed ; May i6, 1914. THE GARDEN. 241 SEASONABLE NOTES ON CARNATIONS. THE supporting of Carnations emerges as an important cultural item, which can never be delayed without serious after-results. There are several in- genious supports which obviate atten- tion to tying ; but even where these are adopted it is necessary to use the old-fashioned wooden or Bamboo stick to protect the plants while young, and for Malmaisons and Perpetuals other supports than these are of dubious utility. The value of a stick consists in its keeping the stem perfectly straight, a condition that was of little importance thirty years ago, but which is all-important at this date, when the blooms are valued according to the length of the stems. Young Perpetuals, moreover, when growing, as they ought to grow, with great vigour, produce shoots which will snap with the least touch, and these should on that account be staked when still young and slung to the stakes. Border varieties will very soon need attention, too, and unless the plants had short sticl^s applied to each when planted, which is some- times imperative when they are extra strong, some will be sure to have grown off the upright. Invari- ably the young assistant places the stake on the wrong side of such plants, that is, on that away from the side to which the plant leans, whereas it ought to be inserted in a position to press the plant upright without having to drag it up with a tie. All Carnations should be staked in the same manner when off the upright. Bamboo tips are very generally used for supports, but I in- cline to use thicker stakes, which can each be split into four. These last longer, and are considerably cheaper than the tips. Shading. — The great variety of shades in the colouring of the old pink Malmaison, or Princess of Wales as it is often called, is sometimes and to some extent due to the quality of the soil ; btit the colour can always be deepened artificiallj by applying a proper shading that will at once subdue the light in the daytime and keep the temperature cool. The best shading is undoubtedly one of the wooden or Bamboo blinds, and the worst is whiting. The whiting obscures the glass, and so far provides a shade, but it has a very slight effect on sun-heat. Perpetuals also are the finer for being shaded. Beacon bums very badly, and the strength and delicacy of all colours is affected injuriously by the sun's rays, and perhaps also from too high a temperature, which, however well ventilated a structure may be, becomes too hot for Carnations. Outdoor Beds. — Plants to occupy positions in beds and borders out of doors may now be drawn from among those which are to remain to produce flowers imder glass. Stand them meanwhile in a sheltered position where the sun does not reach them for the greater part of the day, and be attentive to watering lest the young roots be dried up, the result of which will be a large number of yellow leaves later, an eyesore all the season. Of all the varieties I have tried, none is more fioriferous than Mrs. F. Burnett, and those to reject are such as are of a weak habit, like Lady Alington, or not productive, like R. F. Felton. The plants may very shortly be planted out, setting them so that a shallow depression is left in which to pour water until the roots have got a grip of the soil, which at planting should be very firmly compressed. The quantity of flowers produced under attentive culture is quite astonishing, and more than repays the extra labour that they exact to establish them. These plants are, moreover, valuable producers of a superior type of cuttings for autumn propagation. Some growers lift the plants and derive cut flowers from them during the early TWO BEAUTIFUL BROOMS. IK the two Brooms illustrated, Cytisus prascox and C. albus (the white Spanish Broom), we possess two excellent spring-flowering shrubs. They are suitable for planting in varied positions in the flower garden, pleasure grounds and woodland. Whether in groups of several plants in the borders, masses on sloping banks, a bed or two on the lawn, or dotted about singly or several in a group in the open woodland, these Brooms are very effective. The soil for Cytisuses presents no difficulty ; in fact, they fiower more freely in soils which are light and sandy than in richly manured loams. C. albus is sometimes seen as much as lo feet in height ; more often 5 feet to 6 feet. In addition to the pure white variety, there is a form named incarnatus, with prettily tinted rosy red blossoms. CYTISUS PRiECOX AND C. ALBUS, TWO MAY-FLOWERING BROOMS. part of the winter, and find them also valuable decorative plants. Removing Shoots. — I do not think it is usual to disburden Carnation plants of extra growths, a point noted in an earlier contribution. It does not at this time of year matter so much in the case of Perpetuals, but those who grow a collection of borders or shows and Picotees in pots will find the plants ever so much stronger if the " grass " is reduced, where it is more, to six young shoots on each plant. If the more advanced of these are left, the majority will flower as well as the main stem ; but it will be somewhat late before a second crop of shoots for layering can be had. It is all a question of what one wants. If lots of bloom, leave the largest ; if very strong layers, remove these and let the later growths remain to gain strength. Tyninghame. R. P. Brotherston. The white Spanish Broom is readily raised from seeds. C. prjecox is a natural hybrid, the supposed parents being C. purgans and C. albus. During the second half of April and extending into May the bushes are laden with cream-coloured blossoms. It has one little fault — the odour of the flowers is not at all pleasant. With age Brooms are inclined to become leggy, and for this reason they should be discarded and replaced with young plants. Brooms are not easy shrubs to transplant successfully, except in a small state, and for this reason it is worth growing the plants in pots for a couple of years till large enough to place in their permanent positions. To obtain bushy plants, stop and shorten the young shoots freely in early life, as it is useless, when once the plants become leggy, to cut them down. As a third companion plant to the two named, grow C. andreanus, with rich yellow and reddish brown blossoms. A. O. 242 THE GARDEN. [May i6, 1914. TWO BEAUTIFUL FLOWER- ING TREES. A T this season our gardens and woodlands /% are rendered beautiful by a great / % many flowering shrubs and trees, but / % it would be difficult to imagine any *■ *■ that give greater pleasure to their owners tiian the two illustrated. The Double-flowered Cherry (Prunus Avium). The various kinds of double-flowered Cherries are easy to grow, and of a free-blooming nature, each year seeing the branches wreathed in blossom from end to end. There are a do/en or more double-flowered kinds, varieties of native and exotic species, and each has its special attractions. It is. however, doubtful whether any other kind is such a general favourite as the one under notice, a variety of the wild Cherry or Gean of our woods, and a relative of many of the cultivated varieties of fruiting Cherries of our gardens. Of vigorous growth, it attains dimensions equal to those of an ordinary Cherry tree, and average- sized trees maybe between 35 feet and 40 feet high at maturity. From the time the trees are but a few feet high, or within a couple of years of grafting, they blossom freely, and continue to do so until old age deprives them of the necessary' vitality. As in the case of fruiting Cherries, the pure white flowers appear from buds on the previous year's wood, and from short, spur-like growths . on older parts of the trees. From three to four flowers, each I J inches to ij inches across, terminating a stalk 2 inches long, are borne in a cluster, three or four clusters often appearing together^ An idea of the wealth of blossom produced by trees fifteen years to twenty years old may be gathered from the accom- panying illustration. Like other members of the Prunus family, this variety thrives most satis- factorily in good, well-drained, loamy soil, and in preparing a position for a specimen it is worth while going to a little trouble to ensure these conditions. A station 10 feet across will not be too large to trench from ij feet to 2 feet deep, and prepare with good soil, for the extra trouble and expense involved will be amply repaid by the additional vigour and beauty of the tree. It is perfectly hardy, and there are few parts of the country where it may not be planted, pro- viding it can have shelter from violent winds while in blossom ; for the purity of the flowers is endangered by exposure to cutting winds. One point which is worthy of consideration in the choice of a position for this tree is the selection of a site where a background of coniferous or other evergreen trees is available ; for the white flowers are seen to far greater advantage by the aid of such a background than when exposed to the sky- line. In addition to being such a useful outdoor tree, young examples are valuable for forcing, and in February and March create a pretty effect in conservatory or greenhouse. An item in the cultivation of this tree which should not be over- looked is its dislike to severe pruning, for the careless removal of large branches is almost invariably followed by gumming, which may end in the death of the tree. When pruning is neces- sary, therefore, remove the branches carefully close to the trunk, pare the wounds round with a sharp knife, and provide a coating of coal-tar. The Japanese Crab (Pyrus floribunda). — Although often referred to as a species nati\-e of Japan, this showy tree is considered by many authorities to be of hybrid origin, the Japanese as much in diameter, shapely specimens, well furnished with branches from base to summit, and about the end of April every branch is wTeathed with blossom to such an extent that the woody parts of the trees are invisible. The flowers are a delicate pink, the colour being deeper and richer in the bud and when semi-expanded than in the fully open state. Growing with the type are several examples of the variety atrosanguinea, which is easily distinguished by its richer and deeper- coloured flowers. Where one specimen only is desired, it is advisable to select the variety in preference to the type ; but where both can be grown, one helps to show off the other. Although mature specimens may be met with as large bushes 12 feet to 15 feet high and 20 feet to 30 feet across, it sometimes grows into a small tree 20 feet to 35 feet or more high, with a very wide head, its size being determined largely by the con- ditions under which it is growing. ?or preference, it should be given a sunny position, shel- tered from north and east ; ndt that it is tender, but that cold winds from those quarters may injure the flowers. Provide deep, loamy soil, and see that the ground is well worked before the tree is • planted. It gives little trouble ; an occasional thinning may be necessary, but regular pruning is not desirable. A mericaii blight may attack it, and if such a thing happens, spray with a paraffin wash in summer and a caustic wash in winter. The fruits are not borne freely, and they have no pretensions to beauty. D. .\ DOUBLE-FLOWERED CHERRY, PRUNUS AVIUM. THIS EFFECTIVE SPRING-FLOWERING TREE. P. Toringo and the Asiatic P. baccata being suggested as its parents. In support of this theory there is the fact that it has not been found in a genuinely wild state, while the distinctly lobed leaves of the Japanese species may sometimes be noted among those of normal shape on branches of P. floribunda. Whatever its origin, it is an exceedingly ornamental tree, and was originally introduced to this country from Japanese gardens. No more worthy example of its value for decora- tive gardening can be found than the large group of a score or more well-grown examples which occupy a mound, interspersed with dark-leaved conifers, near the Water Lily House at Kew. Some of these trees are 15 feet or more high and twice ROSE MRS. ARTHUR MUNT. ^Hybrid Tea.) I HAVE frequently contended that this lovely Rose was badly treated when it was passed over by the judges who award the gold medals. No one who has seen it growing among the numerous pale-coloured varieties can resist its peerless beauty, and last year with me it was remarkably good. I can IS .\ \'ERY recommend it as a really good all-round variety. The colour is deep cream, which becomes a sort of ivory cream with a peach tint as the blooms develop. The flowers are large, full and perfectly formed, with a high-pointed centre, and I can well understand Messrs. A. Dickson and .Sons saying it is one of the very best of their pro- ductions. We are having such a large number of light-coloured novelties that it becomes quite embarrassing to know how to use them all, and yet there is such loveliness and distinctness in m.iny of them that one cannot discard any. It will soon, however, become necessary for some authority to classify the various colours, especially the creams, buSs and pinks, and to let amateiu-s know which are really the best of each section. Danfcroft. May i6, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 243 ROSE-GROWING IN TOWN GARDENS. Preparing for Exhibition. — Those who have tasted the joys of successfully exhibiting their Roses usually become enthusiasts for all time, and hence the number of competitors at shows increases from year to year, and Rose societies get more numerous. To ensure success at the leading exhibitions is the highest flight of the ■cultivator's art ; but almost every town in the kingdom now boasts a horticultural society. Usually these have many classes to suit the smaller Rose-grower, and anyone who is sufficiently enthusiastic and painstaking may become a prize- winner. There is much benefit to be derived from .exhibiting, apart from mere " pot-hunting." It instils enthusiasm as nothing else can ; it enforces hard pruning — the most difficult lesson for the amateur to master — and it also ■stimulates the imagination and leads to the idealisation of the perfect bloom. IVIoreover, the ardent rosarian is in need of ■" letting off steam " from time to time. He must have others to see and admire his peerless blos- soms, and to talk about them. JVIembership of a society gives him this opportunity, whereas if he meets no one of like tastes, and is compelled to talk "Roses" to the world at large, he is apt to become as great a nuisance as the too-intense golfer. A lack ■of confidence often causes the grower to postpone showing until a more favourable season, but this is neither good policy nor good •sportsmanship. The putting up of a box of Roses, even if unsuc- ■cessful, teaches one much of the art of exhibiting that it is im- possible to convey by chapter and verse, and it adds a fresh pleasure to life. In Feeding the Roses an early start should be made, and cow- manure water is the safest thing to commence with. This should be given to the plants from the first week in May, using it very well ■diluted, and applying it about once a week. Towards the end of the month an artificial manure may given alternately with it. Mix together super- phosphate of lime and nitrate of potash in proportions of three to one, dissolving roz. of the mixture in each gallon of water. Let this be one week's diet, and the next may consist of a solution of sulphate of ammonia (half an ■ounce to the gallon of water). If these three stimulants are given in turn (of course, only to healthy and established plants), the Roses will have little excuse for failure. As the show- time approaches, a little sulphate of ammonia may be added to the contents of the manure tub, but it should be at a rate not exceed- ing loz. to four gallons when diluted. Do not bother about soot-water ; it is messy and gives unnecessary trouble. Sulphate of ammonia contains exactly the same manurial properties, is infinitely cleaner and easier to handle, and the supply can be better regulated ; but care must always be taken to use it only in a very weak solution, the proportions never being greater than those given. The plants will have been pruned back hard, and this will increase the tendency of many kinds to throw several flowers from each stem. The shoots must, of course, be disbudded, but it is well to allow two buds to remain for a little time, until one can judge to some extent when the blooms will develop, and to guard against mishaps ; but the grower must make up his mind as soon as possible which of these to discard. All plants should be carefully examined to see whether the growths have any tendency to touch one another, and if so, they must be staked and tied apart, so that the foliage may not be damaged by thorns. Every plant must be looked over daily for caterpillars, which frequently ruin the most promising buds before their presence is suspected. The shading, tying, arrangement and dressing multiflora varieties which are really perpetual flowering from the time they open their first flowers in the middle of June right on into November, according to the state of the weather, of course. I have grown the varieties named below, and am much pleased with their behaviour. Quite the best way to grow this type of Rose would be as a hedge, allowing them to ramble away at will, occasionally removing weak growths to make room for the stout, sucker-like shoots that are being constantly pushed up from the main branches. The perfume in all of the varieties is most pleasing. Trier produces large, pyramidal panicles of white flowers tinged with pink on opening, and with decided yellow anthers Kommerzienrat W. Rautenstrauch (Lambert, 1910) is a strong-growing sort with very few thorns and good foliage. Its panicles of salmon red, with light yellow centre and a white shading on THE JAPANESE CRAB APPLE, PYRUS FLORIBUNDA. OPEN IN be of the blooms will be dealt with in the next article. P- L. Goddard. PERPETUAL-FLOWERING CLIMBING ROSES* Although we often hear of perpetual-flowering climbing Roses, I find them most difficult to locate. An odd bloom or two will at times open on certain plants through some check to growth, but such instances cannot class the varieties as perpetual flowering. I need hardly say I am not alluding to the many forms of Hybrid Tea Roses that really do go on flowering long into the autumn, like Lady Pirrie, for example ; but I mean real climbing varieties like American Pillar or Excelsa, or even Felicite Perpetue. By the introduction of Trier in r904 Herr Lambert gave us the foundation of a perpetual race of THIS HAS CHARMING PINK FLOWERS THAT MAY. the outside of the petals, are produced over a long period. This variety is exquisitely perfumed. Thermidor grows vigorously, throwing up strong flower-stems with huge panicles of extra large blooms, pale yellow, changing to white with age. Hugo Maweroff produces its warm carmine, small double flowers of regular form in elegant trusses. Fairy (W. Paul) is, unfortunately, of weak growth, therefore requiring much time to fill a given space, although this may be due to its great freedom in flowering. The suigle flowers are snow white, with yellow anthers. Francois Juranville, although belonging to the wichuraiana section, is the most perpetual flowering of any variety in that section, but not so much so as the multiflora type. It is so useful for the continuance of its interestingly coloured flowers— bright salmon pink, base of petals orange yellow — that it deserves extended culture. E. M. "THE GARDEN" COMPETITION FOR PLANNING AND PLANTING THE LITTLE GARDEN. FOR every great garden planned on spacious lines and expensively planted, there are a thousand little gardens which deserve no less thought and invention if they are to give their owners all the pleasure to be won from the happiest of recreations — gardening. Not so many years ago the little garden, whether in town or suburb, or even deep in the country, was a thoughtless affair ; a few beds of Geraniums and Roses, a border of annuals and perennials in small and dull variety, and perhaps a shrubbery, all laid out without reference to the house or to each other. Since then, the cultivation of flowers and shrubs, fruit and vegetables has developed at a great speed. And it has done this side by side with a growing attention to the sister art of garden design, which includes not only the laying out of ground on simple and artistic lines, but also the use of flowers m harmonious groupings. All this has been well understood and practised in the greater gardens, where an increasing reliance is set on those more formal qualities which made the beauty of the Old English garden. It remains to show that the little garden is no less capable of beautiful treatment. The miniature can be as great a work of art as the full-length portrait. VALUABLE PRIZES FOR BEST DESIGNS. The Proprietors of The Garden, anxious as they are to stimulate the best interests of gardening in all its aspects, and to encourage correctness of design and planting in all sorts of gardens, have organised the competition of which particulars are now given. Four Typical Sites have been chosen, and their plans are now reproduced on a small scale. No. 1 shows a level site with a narrow frontage of 40 feet and a total depth of 120 feet. This is an average small suburban plot, and its lay-out and planting has an importance not ordinarily recognised. No. 2 shows the type of garden which results when an enthusiastic gardener, living next door to a man who cares for none of these things, buys or rents part of his neighbour's garden. The L- shaped plot thus secured gives opportunity for variation in design which is impossible on a narrow rectangular plot. The site is level. No. 3 shows a site such as is often found in the more distant suburbs of large towns, and even in the heart of the country, where there is a wide frontage and much less depth in proportion. This shape creates a new set of problems for the designer. .The site slopes 3 feet downwards from east to west. No. 4 shows a corner site formed by two con- verging roads, and its irregularity gives oppor- tunity for unusual treatment. This site has a slope of 5 feet downwards from north to south. RULES OF COMPETITION. A Tennis Lawn is not to be attempted on Nos. I and 2 ; it may be, but need not be provided on No. 3 ; it must be included on No. 4. Paving for paths, &c., should be shown where it is proposed to use it, but its cost should be remembered. Frames or Greenhouse. — Place for two frames in No. I site, four in No. 2 ; and for unhealed greenhouses in Nos. 3 and 4 may be, but need not be provided. If they are provided, due thought must be given to their being suitably screened from view from the house. Architectural Features. — A sunk plat, a garden-house, a small pool, a pergola, treillage screens, seats, sundials, statues, &c., are per- missible, but should be moderately used. Com- petitors should assume that the garden-owners have the following sums to spend, to cover cost of such things as frames or greenhouse and architectural features, also of hedges or trees which are to form salient features of the garden design, but exclusive of planting flowers, sowing lawn, &c. : For No. i, £20 ; for No. 2, £40 ; for No. 3, £60 ; for No. 4, £100. ■ Treatment of Garden. — Competitors will use their discretion as to what proportions of the sites shall be utilised for flowers, fruit, vegetables, &c., but should bear in mind the average garden-lover rather than the specialist in one sort of cultivation. Conditions of Entry. — The competition is open to anyone who cuts out the form of application on page IV. and posts it with four penny stamps to the Editor of The Garden. (The envelope must be marked " Garden Competition.") This charge is to cover the actual cost of printing and posting two sheets giving the outline plans of the four sites. On these sheets the designs are to be drawn. Competitors may submit designs for all or only one of the four types. They will also be required to prepare (on a blank sheet, which will also be supplied) two planting plans, one for a bed or group of beds, and one for a border. It is left to the competitors' discretion whether they provide Roses, annuals or perennials. Bedding-out plants are discouraged but not barred. These plans are to be prepared in the way that Miss Jekyll has popularised. An example, which shows the method of drawing and size of lettering, is printed on one of the site sheets for the guidance of com- petitors. On the third blank sheet a bird's-eye view or perspective view of the garden may also be drawn if competitor desires. All notes and descriptions are to be printed on the drawings in bold and simple lettering, so that it can be read when reduced to a small scale. All drawing is to be done in black ink. The use of pencil or colour will disqualify, but perspectives may be wash drawings. The site sheets will be sent out to competitors rolled in a cardboard tube, in which they are to be re- turned. Drawings cannot be considered if they are returned folded. In order that anonymity may be preserved, all competitors will receive with the site sheets a form on which they will give their name and address, and an envelope in which the form is to be enclosed. The drawings and sealed envelopes will be numbered at The Garden Office on receipt, and the envelopes will not be opened until after the awards have been made. Where one competitor is especially interested in planning and another in planting, they may combine to send in a joint scheme. Enquiries as to the Conditions. — Any competitor who docs not fully understand the conditions of the competition should write an enquiry to the Editor of The Garden on or before June 6. AH such enquiries will be answered in the issue of The Garden of June 20, 1914. Date of Sending In. — All drawings are to be addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavis- tock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C, marked " Garden Competition," and to be delivered on or before September i, 1914. Ownership and Return of Drawings. — The Proprietors of The Garden reserve the right to publish any drawings submitted in any form they may wish. The winning designs and any others of special interest will be reproduced with the names and addresses of their authors in a special issue of The Garden, which will be published as soon^ as possible after the judges have made their awards. All designs that secure prizes will become the sole property of the Proprietors of The Garden, and copyright of the same will be strictly reserved. All drawings that do not receive prizes will be returned if sufficient stamps are enclosed in the envelope containing competitor's name. Great care will be taken of all drawings submitted, but the Proprietors of The Garden will not be responsible for the loss of or damage to any drawing, howsoever arising. Prizes Offered by " The Garden."— A first prize of 5 guineas, a second prize of 2 guineas and a third prize of i guinea will be given to the three best designs sent in for each of the four types, <.<■., there will be twelve money prizes in all, totalling £33 I2S. In addition, there will be twenty consola- tion prizes, each consisting of books to the value of los. 6d., to be chosen by prize-winners from the Country Life Library of Gardening. Judges. — ^The following gentlemen have kindly consented to examine the designs sent in and to make the awards : Mr. George Diliistone, Mr. F. W. Harvey (Editor of The Garden), Mr. P. Morley Horder, F.R.I. B. A., Mr. Lawrence Weaver, Hon. A.R.I.B.A. (Architectural Editor of Country Life), and Mr. S. T. Wright (Superintendent of the Royal Horticultural Society's Gardens at Wisley). The awards oj the judges will be final and binding, and will not be subject to any appeal. The Editor of The Garden will not publish any corre- spondence relating to the awards unless it appears, in his sole discretion, to be of public interest. GROUND PLAN OF SITE 2. THESE FOUR GROUND PLANS HAVE BEEN CHOSEN AS TYPICAL SITES FOR SMALL GARDENS. -^ ■ I" , .f Tf, GROUND PLAN OF SITE 3. I I 246 THE GARDEN. [May i6, 1914. DAFFODIL NOTES. from tip to tip. It has a little trumpet ij inches long and il inches wide at the top, of a pleasing shade of yellow. Its petals are as smooth as a THE MIDLAND DAFFODIL SOCIETY'S ^^.gU.ironed shirt. The wider ones are ij inches SHOW, 1914. across and i; inches long. I am told that this A SHOW has been held at Birmingham ' type is one which is hard to breed, but all this without Robert Sydenham. This , is forgotten as we go away, inwardly resolving IS the supreme fact to chronicle with to try if we can some day to be as fortunate i regard to the 1914 exhibition. It is ' as Engleheart was when he gave the world this ^ this which differentiates it from all ^ magnificent beauty. others, for necessarily to a very large j I know one young seedling-raiser who must .extent the flowers were the same, and necessarily, have felt very pleased with himself at Birmingham too, the general staging arrangements featured (and his wife, too, for she was by his side, as she those of previous years; but no large-crowned, always is, helping with the Daffodils). I refer ^oft, fawn-coloured hat bobbing in and out among ' to Dr. Lower of Presteign. Had not his 234 the crowd — here, there, every- where ! This was net there, and all that that hat stood upon. From the first Daffodil show organised by the late Professor Hillhouse in 1893 down to that of rgis that hat had never been absent. No wonder, then, that we had come to look upon it as a something with- out which a show could not be. We were right and we were wrong. We have had a show, as we will have to have all our others, with- out it, and yet neither this nor those future ones which we hope for would, humanly speaking, ha\'e been possible without the life which he gave to the society and the painstaking toil and watchfulness -with which he nourished its tender years. Lest we forget, '■ Robert Sydenham, Founder," is now an integral part of our official title. It is our formal tribute to his memory. A remarkable event happened on the morning of the second day — our " silent salesman " spoke. Standing by me in front of the two classes of three distinct varie- ties of seedling Daffodils that have Tieen raised by the exhibitor — Class 30 for old hands and Class 31 for novices — he pointed to the seventeen little lots that were staged in competition and said, " This is what I like to see." As these words fell from his lips I thought within myself, " And no one has done more than you to bring it about." No parcel post firm of traders ever issued a catalogue of more alluring fascination than the splendid exhibits of Mr. Ernest Crosfield, The large, striking and refined blooms ■ •! which they are always c- mio-cd ; re a tr-^mend >us ftim'nius to those who are just beginning to taste the sweets of home-made flowers. What an inspiration to stand before his tricolour-eyed Poet Ring Dove and observe the wonderful texture and substance of its beautiful round perianth, and note the green and yellow and red of its well-proportioned eye ! How the large, cool- looking Barrii Anchorite fascinates us with its long segmented marble white perianth and its flat, large, lemon eye ! What wonders of culti- vation did we not see revealed in that peerless ■" nonsuch " Aladdin in the single bloom class ior white-perianthed incomparables. It is 4i inches THE POET NARCISSUS RING DO\'E, CROSFIELD. RAISED BY MR the largest and deepest red ci p in all the exhi- bition ? The ivory-coloured perianth was slightly reflexed, and measured 3i inches in diameter. Placed on this and taking a round inch of its space was the deep orange red corona bordered with a narrow ribbon of the deepest Poeticus red. " A topping flower," said one, " to give colour to a big thing like Bernardino " ; but, alas ! the anthers are at present sterile and contain no pollen. I am given to understand that this may not always be the case, and that the keen doctor may live in hope. A beautiful double named Mary Copeland gives us the present high- water mark in this class. Not even Llinos, which I described last week as being the feature of the London Show, has such a good back or such well- formed and symmetrical guard petals as this. There are two rows of them, broad and well pro- portioned, of a very pale primrose shade, next door to white. The interior is filled with the split-up corona, each little bit being of a deep yellow, broadiy edged with orange red. It is a flower of no mean size, measuring, if my memory serves me, 4 inches across. It is a curious coinci- dence that two doubles of quite a new build, and each one very similar to the other, should have suddenly appeared in two consecutive weeks at the two great shows of the year. .Although I greatly admire the beautiful white -Ajax from Holland, Mrs. E. H. Krelage, with its w^hite, well-formed perianth and its all but pure white trumpet — size : 4^ inches x (if inches x I J inches) X (if inches x if in'^hes) ; although I liked the shape and colour of Mr. We'chman's rich golden yellow trumpet The Com- monwealth— 4 nc* es X (ij inches : I J inches) x (i J inches x i| inches) \-ery much indeed ; although I was charmed with the refinement of the pale Barrii Whisper (3^ inches .. I J inches), with its pale citron cup and greenish eye ; although the green in the Poet Raeburn's eye was so pronounced as to give the flower its great distinguishing characteristic ; although I could say much of Sentry (a red-eyed Frank Miles), of Wilson's flat-eyed 672, of Charles Surface, of the clear-cut bicolor .\jax Mystery, of Madrigal (the pure -bred Poet that looks like a Barrii), of .\llan-a-Dale (the wire-eyed Poet from Rye), of the recurvus-like Sonata, of the many beauties on the gold medal stand of Messrs. Barr and Sons, I must pass them by with this cursory notice in order to write more fully of what was to me the cynosure of the whole show, if for the moment I exclude from my pur\-iew the exceptional exhibit of Mr. Engleheart. I think it is -Milton who writes of the " cynosure of neighbouring eyes." That was what Melanie was at Birmingham. A lady quite un- known by name or sight to me stood before it as I was making some notes, and touched my arm as if she had to have some outlet for her feelings, and said, " It is worth living to produce a flower like that." The whole flower is a dead white, only relieved by the green eye of the cup. The three outer petals are broad and flat, while the three inner ones had slightly recurved edges. The bloom as a whole may be described as circular and not very large, being only 2f inches in diameter. It is a great achievement to have produced such a bloom, and I heartily congratulate Mr. A. M. Wilson on being the fortunate man to do it. Melanie, White Knight and a small yellow " peer- less " raised by Mr. J. C. Williams I put in a clasi by themselves as super-refined, or possibly a better name would be superfine. One charm of Birmingham is the quiet of the second morning of the show, when the keen ones E. May i6, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 247 I DAFFODILS NOT FLOWER- ING : CAUSE AND REMEDY. [/)( Reply to Several Coyrespondents.] 0 many of our readers have this season been complaining of their flowerless Daffodils that we think it well to en- deavour to clear the air in the matter — in other words, to give examples of cause and remedy. The bulbs in not a few instances are those of strong-growing garden varieties, which good cultivation and a favourable By " favour- s have the whole conservatory practically to them- selves, and when one can take notes in space and peace and really look at things. I spent a con- •siderable portion of the time at my disposa' study- ing Mr. Engleheart's exhibit. I was attracted by the many pure white varieties which he had staged. They were collectively probably tlie best, largest and most varied collection that has ever been ■shown at one time. My good friend, the raiser, was kind enough to come and talk to me about them. I think he agreed with mc in putting a long-petalled flower marked W — 52 down as the greate :t novelty. It measured 3I inches in diameter, and had a shallow cup seven-eighths of an incli across, which was pure wh te, while the perianth grow»ig season should make all right was a very pronounced shade of pale sea green, which appeared somewhat deeper in tone on the second day than on the first. When the two blooms were held against the pure white ones, the difference was very marked. W — 128 (size : 4 inches x ij inches) is a large bloom, reminding one, in its cup more especially, of White Lady. The white segments are long and rather narrow, making be- tween them a typical double- triangled perianth. W — 153 (size : zf inches x seven-eighths of an inch) was an exact opposite. It was pure white, too, but there the resemblance ended. The petals were small, rounded, and with that delightful concavity which we describe as shell-shaped, and which I can recall in old days as giving much of its charm to the pretty Vanessa. The eye of the cup is a distinct grey- green, . quite away from such a shade as we get in Emerald Eye. There were, too, on Mr. Engle- heart's stand a whole series oi a new type of Poet which sud- denly appeared among his seed- lings. To the casual onlooker they appear much the same as others, say, Raeburn ; but as the faithful shepherd knows each sheep and can distinguish them all, so to the trained eye of the raiser these are very distinct, and constitute a new race. They are round in shape, have large, protruding anthers, thin, wiry stems, and have much green in the eye. He has a whole series of these, which he ranged side by side for my inspection. I think now I could pick them out ; but what about it in a year? I shall see them no more till then, for the end of show-time has come. Good-bye, flowers ! May you be there to be seen, and I to chronicle your charms in twelve months' time ! Joseph Jacob. where intelligent and generous cultivation to a large extent supplies the deficiency, should it exist. Another important item is early — August and September — planting, in order that root development may follow in season and in reason. Late planting is a prolific cause of failure, not of flowering, but of that good bulb growth which ensures success another year. As already stated, the flowers that have been enjoyed during the past weeks were formed nearly a year ago, and where good cultivation obtained, not much has been wrong. The disappomtments experienced during the same period have been in some measure due to the exceptionally dry spring of 1913 ; they have been far greater in the lighter soils and where good or generous treat- ment never entered into the scheme of cultivation. Another prolific source of failure is caused by the amateur lifting and transplanting his bulbs in flower or leaf time ; it is accelerated in those instances — and they are not infrequent — where the bulbs are lifted in clumps and transplanted in a similar way. One correspondent complains of the non-flowering of his Dafiodils " this year and last year." They have been planted " four years, the leaves quite healthy." The only remedy in such a case is lifting, dividing and transplanting, with free room for development subse- quently. Lift in July ; replant a month or so later. Trench the ground deeply, just as the soil permits. Manure liberally low down, i.e., 6 inches below the bulbs. Do not forget a change of soil ; nothing is so beneficial. Do not expect flowers imme- diately where there has been none for at least two years ; at least a year's bulb development will be needed to achieve this. THE GARLAND- FLOWER. HANDSOME TRUSS OF RHODODENDRON LODERI PiNK DIAMOND (See page 248.) WATSONIA ALBA OR ARDERNEL This was introduced a few years ago by Mr, Arderne of Cape Town. In height it grows about four feet, bearing long, branching spikes of white flowers. When seen growing in a colony with a groundwork of low-growing plants, a beautiful effect is the result. able growing season " is intended that period of genial weather with frequent or abundant rains in March and April, when the Daffodil, developing its leaf growth, is also endeavouring to form a bulb which will be almost sure to give a perfectly satisfactory flowering in the year to come. For it should be known — is, indeed, known — to a very large number that the germ of the flowering we have recently enjoyed was really laid, i.e., formed and existed in embryo, nearly a year ago. Hence much depends upon a genial springtime, the absence of cold, parching winds, for so moisture- loving a plant as the Daffodil. But many will say : " We are at the mercy of the weather ! " Exactly, and that is rock garden. Daphne Cneorum, otherwise known as the Garland - Flower, IS one of the most charming of dwarf flowering shrubs, and an excellent plant for a shelf in the Growing only about six inches high. It spreads by means of sucker growths into a wide mass, which, throughout the year, retains its small, narrow leaves, and during late April and early May is a mass of pretty pink, fragrant blossoms. The flowers are borne in terminal heads ij inches to 2 inches across, almost every shoot being crowned with flowers at the time named. Unfortunately, it is not everyone's plant, though in many places it grows like a weed. It appears to enjoy moist conditions at the roots, and thrives either in light loam or a peaty soil. Propagation is often carried out by dividing the clumps, each division with a little root forming in time a distinct plant. 248 THE GARDEN. [May 1 6, 1914. SEASONABLE NOTES ON VEGETABLES. Cabbage. — The plants raised in boxes from seed sinvn in March will now be ready for planting out on heavily manured land in rows i8 inches apart, the plants 9 inches apart for the small- growing varieties which heart quickly, cutting out early every alternate head. When planted, cover the ground close up to the stem and for 3 inches wide with finely sifted coal-ashes, as a preventive of slugs eating the plants. Keep the ground well stirred among established plants, as this hastens growth ; and if any batch seems slow of growth, sprinkle around each plant a pinch of nitrate of soda. Carrots in Frames. — The latest-sown batch will need thin- ning and careful ventilation, tilting the lights on the opposite side to that from which the wind is blowing ; water well, but carefidly. Outside, sow small breadths of horn varieties for pulling in a young state. The earlier sowings will need thinning, stirring the soil between the rows. Cauliflowers. — Make sowings fi-^y- of .Mammoth, Auturrm Giant y' and Magnum Bonum in frames, where the plants can be more safely raised than out of doors in dry weather. Directly the plants show through the soil, remove the lights and give an occasional dusting of soot and wood-ashes, which induces stocky and vigorous growth. If there is any danger of the plants ', being too thick, thin them care- fully at an early stage, thereby obtaining sturdy seedlings. Plant out in drills those of previous sowings. In this way watering is more beneficial, as the roots derive the full benefit from the soaking. Celery. — The February-sown plants that have been grown on in pots or beds in frames should be put out in trenches for an early supply. If an extra early crop is required, plant in frames or on a spent hotbed, giving abundance of water. Except for an early show, this crop is THE NEW hardly wanted. The trenches for the first outside crop need not be made deep, as the variety will be of the dwarf section. Peas. — Continue to sow Peas of the Marrowfat type at fortnightly intervals. Should the soil be dry, well soak the drills an hour before sowing, which will hasten germination of the seed. Directly the plants from any previous sowing appear above the ground, plac ■ black cotton over the rows as a preventive of birds. The rows, 4 inches high, should be earthed up, and have short stakes placed on each side prior to adding the taller supports. When the latter are put in, they should be placed upright. So many give them an inward slant on both sides, causing the tops to come so close together that the haulm there receives no support, but is forced outwards on both sides, and in case of continued rains falls down through lack of support. If there is a promise of drought — as there is in May very often — mulch both sides of the rows with half-decayed stable manure as a preventive of the evaporation of moisture, which is a most certain forerumier of a mildew attack. The conserving of the mois- ture in the soil, too, assists freedom of growth. Early so%vn varieties for show, like Alderman, Duke of Albany or Quite Content, that are showing pods sufficiently for a crop, should have their points removed to conserve the energy of the plant into the swelling of the pods. Such plants should be freely supplied with NEW AND RARE PLANTS. FIRST-CLASS CERTIFICATES. Rhododendron Loderi Diamond. — A stain- less, whitc-fluwcred hybrid of much excellence. The flowers are produced in loosely formed clusters. Rhododendron Loderi Pink Diamond. K counterpart of the above, with delicately shaded, pink - coloured flowers. These are obviously hybrids of the Aucklandii set, and have the same finely fashioned open, bell-shaped blos- soms, which are about five inches across. No praise is too great for them. Exhibited by Sir Edmund Loder, Bt., Horsham. AWARDS OF MERIT. Rhododendron Gill's Goliath. A glorious rose pink flowered sort, with splendid heads of open, bell-shaped flowers. The richer colour is seen in the upper part of the flower ; lower down the tube it is of lighter hue, veined pink on a whitish ground. Shown by Messrs. R. Gill and Son, Falmouth, Iris Isolda (Regelio-Cyclus).— This delightful flower in bronze and gold approximates to the lovely, and until now unique, Charon. It is, however, of : darker bronze, and possibly also larger-flowered. A gem of the first water. Iris Leucothsea (Regelio - Cyclus). — A handsome form having violet blue standards, the bhiish falls reticulated with grey and blotched with brownish crimson. It is very fine. These were shown by M. C. G. van Tubergen, Holland. Syringa reHexa.— This distinct species is marked by unusually large leaves and racemes of lilac- coloured flowers, horizontally dis- posed. From the Hon, Vicary V* Gibbs, Elstree. Auricula Majestic. — A very handsome self red, with yellow paste or centre. The pip is of large size ; the truss finely pro- portioned. From Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, also from Messrs. Phillips and Taylor, Bracknell. REGELIO-CYCLUS IRIS LEUCOTH.EA. THIS HAS VIOLET BLUE SHADED BROWN FLOWERS. water, and be lightly syringed in the afternoon of a hot day. Tomatoes for Outdoors should now be planted against walls and fences. A southern aspect is the best site, although they succeed admirably on an east wall. The plants should be not less than 1 foot high when put out, and if they have been growing in 6-inch pots in a cold frame they will be all the better, as they will grow away at once and set fruit early, which much facilitates ripening in September. The soil should not be too rich, as the plants can be fed with liquid stimulants later on when the fruit is set and making the first swelling. Swanmore. E. Molyneux. NEW FRUIT. Apple Sandling Duchess. — A very late cooking variety of excellent quality. Mr. S. T. Wright tested the fruits at Wisley, and reported that the cooking quality was equal to the favourite variety Wellington. The fruits are rich red and of moderate size. An award of merit was granted subject to an ofiicial inspection of the tree in the autumn. Shown by Mr. W. Crump, V.M.H. We heard many complaints about the fruits being removed before Fellows could see them. The foregoing awards were made at the fortnightly meeting of the Royal Horticul- tural Society on May 5, when the flowers and fruit named were shown before the respective committees. May i6, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 249 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. RAISING SINGLE WALLFLOWERS FROM SEEDS. AMONG spring-dowering plants, tlie Wail- flower is one of the most useful and pleasing. In addition to the beautiful L rich colours of the flowers, they are ^ delightfully fragrant. No frame or greenhouse is necessary to raise Wall- flowers from seeds. Sow them on a spare piece of ground during May and June or in shallow boxes, which may be stood in a light yet sheltered position outside. The best method is to sow Wallflower ■seeds in shallow drills i foot apart, as shown in the illustration. Having raked the surface soil to a fine tilth, draw out the soil from the drills to a depth of i inch to i| inches. Sow the seeds thinly, and fill in the drills. A sprinkling of lime and soot over the ground will assist in keeping away slugs and snails from the tiny seedlings. Some time during July, according to whether the seeds were sown early or late, the seedlings will be ready to transplant. As a rule, the positions where the plants are to blossom are not vacant till autumn, so recourse must be had to another DRILLS MADE READY FOR SOWING WALLFLOWER SEED NOW IS THE TIME TO DO THE WORK. piece of vacant ground. Tread this firmly, as it is very desirable to transplant Wallflowers in autumn with good balls of soil. Set out the young plants in rows i foot apart, and 9 inches from plant to plant in the rows. Wallflowers will grow in most garden soils. There are many positions for them in beds and groups, lines or whole borders ; vacant spaces between shrubs may be filled with Wallflowers ; while for window-boxes and terrace vases they are the best of all spring flowers. Wallflower plants, when in flower, are from 9 inches to i3 inches in height. Among numerous named sorts which come quite true from seeds, the following comprise a useful selection : Cloth of Gold, rich golden yellow ; Blood Red ; Vulcan, rich dark crimson, dwarf habit ; Faerie Queen (Primrose Dame), citron yellow ; Purple Queen (Violet Queen) ; Eastern Queen, salmon and rosy pink ; Fire King, orange red ; Ivory Whit« and Yellow Phcenix. PROPAGATING DOUBLE DAISIES. As an edging for beds and borders in spring, double Daisies are among the gayest of low-growing plants at that season. With their tufted growths closely covering the ground throughout the year, the plants form, if need be, a permanent edging, and then in spring push up in quantity delightful flowers, vivid deep red, rich rose, pink or pure white, as the case may be. There are two methods of increasing Daisies — by dividing up the clumps after flowering, as illustrated, and by seeds. Dividing or parting the clumps is done after flowering, usually in June. Each rosette of leaves or single growth, if carefully severed from the parent plant, usually has a few roots attached, and will quickly make a new plant. For a bed of young Daisy plants select, if possible, a piece of ground shaded from the midday sun. Set them out 6 inches apart and 9 inches between the rows. Here they may remain till the summer flowers are over in late autumn, when the plants can be transplanted with nice balls of soil to beds and borders. Instead of using Daisy plants as permanent edgings, numerous growers take up the plants after flowering and grow them in the reserve garden till the autumn, thus making room for Lobelia, Sweet .Alyssum and other dwarf summer-flowering subjects. Three popular double Daisies are Snowball (white), Alice (pink) and Rob Roy (crimson). Seeds of double Daisies may be sown during iVIay and June on a border outside or in boxes in a cold frame. In due course, when large enough, prick out a patch or two of the seedlings 3 inches apart on vacant ground, where they will grow till the autumn. A good strain of seedling Daisies may be expected to come very largely true to colour. As a rule, the seeds are sold in colours, as double white, crimson or pink. Named sorts from seed are Longfellow (dark rosy pink), Snowball (white) and Firefly (glowing scarlet, with yellow eentre). The most notable development in seedling double Daisies in recent years is the Giant strain. These plants produce flowers 2 inches or more in dia- meter, by the side of which the ordinary strains appear almost as pygmies. Seeds of Giant White and Giant Pink may be purchased separately, or, if desired, a packet of Giant Mixed supplies a variety of shades from pure white to rosy red. It is worth while selecting a few of the very best seedlings and propagating them by ch vision. HOLLYHOCKS FROM SEEDS. Formerly it was the practice to propagate Holly- hocks by division, grafting or cuttings, but the deadly fungus created so much havoc among the named sorts that the great majority of Holly- hocks grown in our gardens are now raised from seeds. These plants, having plenty of vigoiur, are less susceptible to the fungus. To secure strong plants for flowering next summer, seeds of single and double flowered Hollyhocks should be sown during May or June. Sow either in the open ground or in a cold frame. In due course prick oft the seedlings in shallow boxes, as illustrated, and later seedling hollyhocks should be PRICKED OFF INTO BOXES when LARGE ENOUGH, AND TRANSFERRED LATER TO THE OPEN GARDEN. plant them out in the open border. Seedling Hollyhocks may be raised in many pleasing shades of colour, including crimson, red, deep rose, pink, orange yellow, sulphur, and white. Hollyhocks vary from 6 feet to 10 feet in height, and flower from June to September. ALPINE STRAWBERRIES. Being both hardy and adaptable, the alpine Strawberry can be grown in any garden, and will fruit freely the whole of the summer. Although birds play havoc with most other small fruits, they seldom interfere with this particular variety. Keep down weeds by hoeing when- ever the necessity occurs, and mulch directly the blooms appear. If dry weather is en- countered after the flowers begin to set, watering should be done until the conditions alter, otherwise the fruit will be small. A light dressing of nitiate or some other well-known fertiliser applied a month after starting to pick the fruit will do much to encourage continuous bearing. Keep the weeds well down all the year round and also keep the runners cut. The beds will stand for many years so long as the rooting weeds do not get established. Alpine Strawberries possess a quite different flavour to the ordinary Strawberries. They will, too, stand handling much better. Jam may be made from them. They are delicious with cream, and make an appetising stew. One great virtue is that they are certain croppers, J. T. B. DOUBLE DAISIES MAY BE PROP.\G-\TED BY DIVI- SION, AS SHOWN, AFTER THEY HAVE FINISHED FLOWERING. 250 THE GARDEN. [May i6, 1914- GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. Melons. — As soon as tlip first batch of Melons arc cut, the house should be thoroughly cleaned and preparation made for another plantation, and as the season advances a greater depth of soil ought to be provided in order to reduce the need of frequent watering. Melons may be planted from now to the beginning of August in numbers, according to the demand. Until the fruits are well advanced in each case the plants may be syringed twice daily, providing a temperature of 75° is maintained at night. Cucumbers. — Frequent thinning and stopping will be necessarv to keep the plants from becoming crowded. Give' frequent waterings of liquid manure, and top-dress the bed as often as the roots appear through the surface of the soil. Rich loam and decayed manure will answer the purpose well. Plants Under Glass. Richardias or Arum Lilies which have finished flowering may be removed to the open air and moisture gradually reduced, in order to prepare the roots for potting about the end of July. Some growers plant them out ; but where early flowers are desired, the best way is to grow the plants in pots, potting them up about the end of July or August and protecting them from heavy rain until the roots have made good progress. Chrysanthemums. — Plants intended to produce large flowers should now be ready for their final potting. The compost may consist of good, rich loam, leaf-soil and decayed horse-manure. Pot firmly and leave some space for top-dressing later in the season. Fine sifted lime rubble should be mixed with the soil to keep it in a porous condition. Cuttings may now be inserted in small pots, in order to producestocky plants for furnishing in November and December. Verbena Miss Willmott. — This beautiful Verbena is suitable for the conservatory as well as for the flower garden. Plants rooted in March should now be ready for potting into 5-inch pots. A mixture of rich loam, leaf-soil and a little decayed cow-manure and silver sand will suit them well. Grow in a temperature of 55° and avoid cold draughts. The Flower Garden. Border Chrysanthemums. — Spring-struck cut- tings should lie planted out before they become pot-bound and stunted. Besides planting these on the mixed border, a plantation ought to be made on a break by themselves, especially if large quantities of cut flowers are desired during the autumn. Onlv early flowering varieties should be planted for this "purpose, and they ought to be allowed a spac e of 2 feet from plant to plant. Climbing Plants. — These soon become entangled if not regularly attended to and the shoots thinned and tied in the right direction. Many of the climbing varieties of Roses make far too much growth, and unless these are thinned out and trained, thev will become a mass of rubbish. Clematises also require attention at least every ten days during the early part of the season. The Rose Garden. — Careful attention must be- paid to the destruction of aphis, which is almost sure to appear after cold east wind. Syringe the trees carefully with some approved insecticide, and see that they do not suffer from want of water at the roots. Roses which were planted recently should be carefully mulched with decayed manure, and if dry weather continues, a good watering ought to f)e gi\'en after mulching. May-Flowering Tulips which are at present occupying the flower-beds may have to be lifted before' they are quite ripe, and if such is the case, they should be carefully labelled and placed in the' reserve garden until' the bulbs are ripe, when they may be lifted and placed in the store-room until the time arrives for planting. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Watering. — In consequence of the unusual drought in April and early May, it will be advisable to examine the borders to ascertain if water is necessary. In the case of recently planted trees, it is almost sure to be required, and this should be applied in sufficient quantity to thoroughly moisten the soil. If the borders were mulched, this will have done much to retain the moisture in the soil ; but even then it may be necessary to give a thorough watering at once. Apricot trees which are necessarily planted in porous soil are generally the first to suffer, and if once allowed to become too dry at the roots, no amount of care afterwards will restore them to a healthy condition. All fruit trees in exposed positi4)ns should receive attention at once. Gooseberry Trees. — Now is the time to guard against caterpillar. Let the trees be thoroughly syringed with some insecticide as soon as this pest makes its appearance. A dusting of soot and lime early in the season will do much to keep the trees free from this and other pests. The Kitchen Garden. Early Cauliflower. — Recently planted Cauli- flower will require special attention. Weak liquid manure may be applied twice during the week, taking care to moisten the ball of soil thoroughly. Spring-sown plants for succession should be planted on well-prepared soil as soon as large enough to handle. These will require careful attention and protection from slugs, but will repay the rultj\-ator if properly attended to. Lettuce. — Spring-sown plants should now be ready for thinning and transplanting. Sprinkle the plants night and morning until they become re-established. Slugs may be kept in check by dusting the border with lime in the early rrioming. Make fortnightly sowings from now lo the end of July, and, as the season advances, a cool situation should be chosen for them. Brussels Sprouts. — Let these be planted out as soon as large enough, allovring 3 feet between the rows and 2 feet from plant to plant. The soil for this crop should be of a rather stiff nature and not too rich. Radishes. — Make frequent small sowings of Radishes, choosing a position which is not too hot and allowing plenty of water. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Swede Turnips. — Every garden should have a number of rows (according to requirements) of this excellent winter vegetable. Unlike the ordinary garden Turnip, Swedes require a much richer soil and plenty of room to develop the roots. The present is a very suitable- tinic to make a sowing, provided the soil is in condition for this, but. of course, they may be sown any time up to the beginning of June. Globe Artichokes. — The protecting material may either be forked in or cleared away, and if the' soil is at all dry, they will be greatly assisted by occasional waterings with weak liquid manure from the byre. Where extra large heads are in demand, the small ones that appear on the sides of the stalk should be removed, going over them several times. Late Varieties of Peas. — As this sowing has usually to withstand the heat and excessive drought of the' summer, it will be necessary to make pro- vision accordingly. Dig out some small trenches as for Celery, and place some good farmyard manure in the bottom ; then replace the soil. In sowing, place the seed a little deeper than usual, and by all means sow thinly. Indeed, I am not sure that growers would not' get better results if the seed were dropped in singly. Tomatoes. — There is usually a number of plants to spare after the house or frame has been fur- nished. These should always be planted on some vacant spot against a wall, preferably facing south. The fact that they have been standing about in pots will have tended to throw them into fruitlulncss, and these very soon show flower. It is true the fruits may not be so fine as those grown under glass ; all the same, the cook will find a use for them. The Flower Garden. Wall Climbers. — Too often thtse are allowed to lake rare of themselves. They become so intermingled that half their beauty is' lost, whereas a little attention at this time in the way of training would amply compensate for the extra trouble. This is particularly necessary with many of the finer Clematises, which give such a glorious display in September. Portulacas. — These lovely annuals, which are usually treated as half-hardy, may be so\vn now out of doors where they are intended to flower. They must have a position where they will be exposed to the full glare of the sun, and the soil should be of a light, sandv nature. Any vacant pockets in the rockery would suit them admirably. Plants Under Glass. Begonia Gloire de Lorraine. — Plants rooted last montli will now be ready for a shift, and for this potting use a compost consisting of good fibrous loam, leaf-soil, sand, a sprinkling of brick rubble and a little dried cow-manure. It is important that they are not potted over-firmly, otherwise the young growths are sure to become stunted and run to flow'cr. .\fter potting, keep them in a warm, moist atmosphere, syringing them two or three times a day. Some of the older plants may be retained and grown on in wire baskets, wlien, with proper attention, they will make splendid specimens. Indeed, this Begonia is much more effective when grown in this way than in pots. Gloxinias. — Young plants from seed sown in January will now be ready for potting on. Use soil of a free, open nature, and do not overpot. They will require abundant shade and an atmo- sphere charged with moisture. Older plants will now be greatly assisted by occasional appli- cations of weak liquid manure from the byre. This will be found to suit them better than artificial manures. When the flow'ers appear, the plants should have less moisture, and if placed among the Maidenhair Ferns this will make a very tasteful arrangement. Palms. — Those plants that have done service in the way of furnishing in the mansion will now call for attention. No matter how carefully they have been attended to, they are sure to be show'ing signs of their uncongenial surroundings. Trim off all decayed points and have every part thoroughly sponged, and before placing them in the Palm- house examine the drainage and top-dress with some turfy loam and a little Clay's Fertilizer. During the next two months they will require a heavy shade and an abundance of moisture. Under this treatment it is really surprising how quickly they recover. Regal Pelargoniums. — These will now be coming into bloom, and where large specimens are desired, it will be necessary to stake them out. This, however, should not be overdone, as there is nothing more objectionable than any appearance to stiffness. They will require to be fumigated from time to time to ward off green fly. Crotons. — Tops that were mossed should be potted up without delay. Have them placed in the propagating-case for a few days and shade from bright sunshine. Established plants should be fully exposed to the sun and frequently syringed during fine days. If some stock plants still remain, it will not be too late to root a few for decorative purposes in the autumn. If kept in 3-inch pots, they will be found to be extremely useful for dinner- table decoration. For this purpose they can be turned out of the pots and placed in small silver dishes. Treated in this way they are most eftective. Fruits Under Glass. Thinning Grapes. — Ai this season the various varieties of Grapes will be coming on so fast that it will be a matter of concern to cope with the work of thinning. However one is pressed for time, this work should be carefully attended to. Go over the bunches that are thickly set and tie up the shoulders, and begin by cutting out all small and badly placed berries. The final thin- ning may be done when it can be seen how they are going to swell. The greatest care should he taken not to touch or rub any of the benies, as this would disfigure the bunch. John Highgate. (Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow^ Hopcloun Gardens, South Quccnsferry, N.JS. I May i6, 1914.J THE GARDEN. 251 SPRING FLOWER BEDS AT BOURNEMOUTH. IT would be very difficult indeed to find any other town in England where flower beds in the public gardens and open spaces are better or more artistically furnished at all seasons of the year than at Bourne- mouth. The summer effects in this seaside resort we have often seen and admired, but it was not until this year that we had been privileged to see the fine spring effects that the council's liead-gardener, Mr. J. B. Stevenson, yearly places before the public. It was in Queen Victoria's Jubilee year, 1887, that this worthy and highly esteemed gardener first came to Bournemouth in his present capacity, the neighbouring seaside resort, Swanage, having claimed his attention previous to that date. Since then he has seen some wonderful changes in the borough over which he keeps an ever-watchful eye, and it is only fair to add that most of the beautiful gardens and open spaces owe their charm, and in some instances their existence, to his energy, ability and enterprise. Naturally, spring beds must of necessity contain a great many Tulips, and in using these Mr. Stevenson, by a simple yet ingenious plan, maintains a display of flowers over twice the ordinary period. His method is this : Wherever Tulips are to be used, two varieties of the same colour are selected, one an early sort and the other a May-flowering kind. The bulbs of these are planted fairly closely together and alternately, so that when the early varieties are finished, the later ones take up the running, and continue until it is time to empty the beds ready for the summer occupants. In the little time that we had at our disposal we made notes of a few of the most effective beds, the date being April 29, and the particulars of these we record herewith for the benefit of our readers. It will be noticed that all the designs are simple, yet the effect of the beds, either in conjunction or alone, was excel- lent, (r) Mun- stead Wood P o 1 y a n thuses, with a broad edging of Au- brietiaDr.Mules, thinly planted over with Tulip Wouverman, pink, and Royal Crown ; (2) Har- bi n ger Wall- flower, with Nar- cissus Elvira thinly inter- spersed and boldly edged with double white Arabis ; (3) two long beds planted with mixed Polyan- thuses, edged with double white Daisies MR. J. B. TO THE STEVENSON, HEAD GARDENER BOURNEMOUTH CORPORATION. and thinly planted with Tulips President Lincoln and Inglescombe Scarlet ; (4) Tulips Prince ot Austria and macrospe.la, planted rather thickly, carpeted with double white Daisies and edged with small-flowered red Daisy Firefly ; (5) Tulips Eleanora (purple) and Blushing Bride, carpeted with double white Arabis and edged with Aubrietia Model ; (6) Tulips Ophir d'Or and Bouton d'Or. carpeted with Aubrietia Hendersonii and boldly edged with Daisy Giant White ; (7) Tulips Yellow Prince and gesntriana lutea, with Aubrietia Dr. Mules, and edged with Daisy Gian' White ; (8) Tulips Mrs. Stanley and gesneriana lutea, carpeted with double white Arabis and edged with Aubrietia Model ; (9) Pansy Empress, edged with Viola Snow Queen, and planted over with Tulips Pink Beauty and Blushing Bride ; (10) Yellow Polyanthuses, edged with Daisy Giant Pink, and planted over with Tulips Rosamunde and Picotee. In addition to the foregoing there were a great many beautiful flower-beds. In the autumn, just before planting-time, we hope to induce Mr. Stevenson, whose portrait we have much pleasure in reproducing herewith, to give our readers the benefit of his long and varied experience in planning and planting spring beds. It may be of interest to record that he is the father of Mr. Thomas Stevenson, the well-known Sweet Pea cultivator and exhibitor. THE NARCISSUS FLY NEW ZEALAND. IN SPRING FLOWER BEDS IN FRONT OF MR. STEVENSON S HOUSE AT BOURNEMOUTH. CtE quantities of bulbs, mainly Daffodils, have arrived in Aucldand by every English parcel post during the last four or five weeks, and before delivery they are subjected to an examination by an inspector appointed by our Agricultural Department. WhUe the bulk of these parcels have probably been passed as clean and free from disease, several I know have been found to contain merodon (Narcissus fly) grub and been condemned. Unfortunately, this inspection is not infallible, for to my knowledge more than one parcel containing the dreaded grub has passed the inspection and reached the addressee, both this season and last. As the regulations of the Department at present stand, any parcel found to contain even one infested bulb is condemned and destroyed in toto. Thus, while in their well-meant ef- forts to keep out this pest a large number of per- fectly sound bulbs are un- necessarily de- stroyed, there is no certainty that the Narcissus fly is not already established here, for though in the cases to which I refer a close examina- tion by the im- porter detected grubs previously overlooked, we do not know how many similar parcels passed into the hands of inexperienced persons, who pro- bably planted them without further scrutiny. I sincerely hope that we may have escaped, 252 THE GARDEN. [May i6, 1914. but I am not at all free from doubt, and I look forward to next season with some apprehension to prove whether my doubts are groundless. Those growers here who have considered the matter have come to the conclusion that the examination of the bulbs before leaving home, which our Government insists on, is practically useless to detect merodon grub, for the reason that the parasite has not at the time of export developed ; but during the six or seven weeks in transport it grows into a fat grub, and on arrival here its presence is not difficult to detect by carefully examining and squeezing the bulb. The local inspector was interviewed, and he discussed the subject with us very courteously, and informed us he had had experience of the fly in the Old Country. We urged the futility of the preliminary examination in England, and that while it is highly desirable that all bulbs afiected, or in the slightest way doubtful or suspicious, should be destroyed, we considered it wasteful to treat the sound bulbs in the same way. He expressed himself in sympathy with our views, but stated the regulations allowed him no discretion or latitude. He promised to represent the matter to his Department, and we hope the regulation may be modified ; but until it is I would suggest to all English bulb merchants exporting to New Zealand that, if they wish to minimise the risk of loss to themselves and their Colonial customers, they should not pack Daffodils with other bulbs or in large quantities, but split up orders into small parcels, expensive bulbs being packed singly. This, of course, would entail extra trouble and expense, but at present I cannot offer any other suggestion. Unless some such course is adopted, I should not be surprised if a falling off of orders from this country is experienced ; and it may not be inopportune to mention that whereas formerly there were two factors affecting the volume of business between England and New Zealand in Daffodils, viz. : (i) The trouble and time (two to three years) involved in importing and acclimatising ; (2) the high price of most of the newer and better sorts ; there are now two more likely to bear on the matter : (3) New Zealand raised seedling varieties equal (if not superior) to many of the English varieties which have so far been imported are now coming into commerce here at reason- able prices ; (4) last, but by no means least, the Narcissus fly. Auckland, New Zealand. A. E. Gri.ndrod. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor intends to make JHi: G.\iuiE-N help/id to (til leaders who desire assist- ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely packed in damp grass or moss, mil cotton-wool, and ftoicering shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send small scraps that are not characteristic of the. plant. Letters on business should be sent to the Publisher. In providing the latter you might also give a liquid niauure twice weekly to encourage and develop the growth neccisary to a good flowering. The fact tliat the plant continues growing is an excellent sign, and if you play your part and develop that growth to the utrnost, yoij will have flowers and plenty of them in due course. The patiiway is not an ideal position, tliough firm planting is neei;ssary In all light soils, and with it "a fp.irly generous system of cultivation. EDITORIAL NOTICES. Every department of horticulture is represented in The Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions relating to matters upon which they wish expert advice. The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes, hut he will not be responsible for their safe return. All reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where statnps are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted contributions. As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated. It must be distinctly understood that only the t'.ctual photo- grapher or oumer of the copyright will be treated with. The Editor loill not be responsible for the return of artistic or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an article is accepted. Publication in The Garden vnll alone bf recognised as acceptance. Offices: 20, Tavistock Street Covent Garden, W.C. FLOWER GARDEN. INJURY TO DAFFODIL FOLIAGE {C.D.).~Thc foliage of the ]JatfodiIs ^tmt is insufficient to enable us to say with certainty from what di^ea^c they are sutfering. You ivill probably find, if you lift them, that some pest is at work either upon the bulb or upon the root. VERBENA MAHONETTE {Mrs. X.).— We do not recall a Verbena of this name, and wonder whether the variety of V. tenera known as IMahoneti is intended. All Verbenas may be growTi in the open from May to September. Some, indeed, as V. venosa, are quite hardy in the London di^^tvict, while V. chamsedryfolia is nearly so in several places. Both these hail from Brazil, as also does the variety of V. tenera mentioned. Complete hardiness is, however, very much a question of experiment in differing localities. IMPROVING THE SOIL OF A GARDEN (Blenheim).— As you i;avi* your garden a <;ood drc-sins of brokeu-up chalk la-^t autunm, and pri;sumably dug it in tliis spring, we do not think that you are in a position in this short cimc to say whether the plants will be benefited by the addition of lime to the soil. From what you say, we certainly think that the chalk should be of great service in such heavily manured ground. As the season advances you will be better able to see the effects of your top- dressing, and it will then probably give satisfaction. PRIMULAS (M. ./.).— Such Primulas as P. pulverulenta, P. rosea, J*, farinosa and P. Poissoni do not require to be divided each year. The first two and the last named may be quite good for three or more years if provided with plenty of rich soil and root moisture for those first named. P. farinosa, while strictly perennial, gives by far the best results when raised periodically from seeds ; indeed, the others only attain their greatest vigour when so treated. Seeds arc so abundantly produced in many of the species, and vegetate so quickly if sown almost as soon as ripe, that division of the plants, because of the frequent unsatis- factory results accruing therefrom, does not receive serious thought. Moreover, the seedling plant, for robust vigour and generous flowering, is unequalled. PEACOCK IRIS NOT FLOWERING (T. H. C.).— The most likely cause of the noii-lloweriug is the smallness of the bulbs, and as they have all started well and appear liealthy in other respects, it leaves but little doubt in the matter. Tn your sun-kissed California this delightful small plant should give but slight trouble, seeing that it requires little more than a sunny position, very sandy though comparatively rich and w ll-draincd soil, and plenty of moisture at the roots during its season of growth. After thr growiiiu' si aaon it should be given absoiuti^ nst. Like many uthrr South African plants, the abuvf didiL'hts in sun and warmth, and probably even with yuu a raised ivMiw in a sunny position would suit it best. Strictly speaking, it is not an Iris the correct name is Morrea glaueopis. EASILY GROWN ROCK PLANTS {£. F. i/.).— You cannot do better than concentrate attention upon the Aubrietias, Mossy Saxifrages and subulata Phloxes for the most part, which will also afford you a flowering for weeks on end. Ot Aubrietias, take Dr. Mules (violet), Fire King (red). Lavender (mauve), MoerheimJ (pink and white) and Lloyd Edwards (rich purple). Of Saxifrages, Guildf jr:i Si edlin;:, Clibrani, lied Admiral (all liigh- coloured \arieties). Lady Deanc, Camposii and Arkwrightii awhile) and Miss Wilhnott (white and biu-h). Of the Phloxes, Nelsonii (white), Mode' (pink), atropurpuri'a (dark red) and amcena (rosy red). Achillea nipestris (whitcO, Silene alpestris (wliite), Zausehucria calif ornica (scarlet), Saxifraga Aizoon rosea, Campanula muralis, C. pusilla Miss \Yillmott (bhic shades), and Thymus Serpylhun cocciiK-uni (ndjarr also good and I'asily grown. GENTIAN NOT FLOWERING {E. J. i.).— So far as we are able to judge from the fragments before us, the plants are anxious to flower, but are debarred from so doing by conditions of semi-starvation. The leaf growth, despite the evidences of a desire to niu to Uower, is quite inadequate ; it should be twice or tliricc as large, llcncf we can but conchidc that the plants are too poorly grown. In soils of a hot, sandy nature like yours, a comparativ»'ly liberal fare is necessary, and plenty of summer moisture. TREES AND SHRUBS. SHRUB TO NAME {DH. S. .5.).— The specimen sent for name is the Bird Cherry (Pruniis Padus). It grows into a moderate-sized tree arid blossoms freely. INJURY TO RHODODENDRONS (Major M.).— We regret we are unable to say from the specimens sent what is attacking the Rhododendrons, though we suspect it to be a weevil. Perhaps you would keep watch and see exactly what it is and send us specimens. CLIPPING A HOLLY HEDGE (H. K.).^X Holly hedge may be clipped at the present time, if you so wish, but it should be clipped again in autumn. Such hedges are usually clipped on the completion of growth, so that they may be left tidy for the winter. If, however, the hedge requires a severe cutting back, April is the best time for the work. It is very ditflcult to rid leaf-mouid of Insects, and perhaps the best plan is to spread it out in the sun and turn it a few times before it is used. IRISH YEW {A Reader).~All that you can do to your Irish Yew, which does not appear to be recovering aft"'r being transplanted, is to cut the branches back by a foot or so and keep the plant well syringed two or thre>- times a day while the weather is dry. It is usually advisable to remove a little of the branch growth uf evergreens at the time of transplanting, in order that the etfect of root injury may be lessened. Should th*^ soil about the roots appear dry, give water now and then. A mulch of decayed leaves about the surface of the soil will also be advantageous. ABOUT HARDY FUCHSIAS (Blenheim).— The height attained by the different Fuchsias \aries greatly accordins to the locality, for in tlie more favoured parts of the country they form large bushes, Avhile in others they are usually cut to tljc ground during the winter, and throw up new shoots each spring after the manner of a herbaceous plant. It is therefore e\ident that under these last- named conditions they will not attain anything like the height that they do where they grow untouf-hed. Tlie roost vigorous of those mentioned is F. Iticcartonii. which in such favoured localities as the Isle of Wight and similar spots will reach a height of 10 feet or 12 feet or even more. Less in stature come F. longipedunculata, F. virgata and F. gracilis, while F. exoniensis, the shortest of all. is, unless supported, about three feet high. The other two varieties we do not know. Where the plants dii- down during the winter and young shoots push up in the spring, the varieties named, mth the exception of F. exoniensis, will reach a height of 2 fi.et to 4 feet, accord- ing to the ^igour of the plants. All these l^'iichsias, and, in fact, one may say the whole of the hardy kinds, flower throughout the siunmer and well on into the autumn, that is, should tlie weather be mild. All the prunhig needed is in the spring, when the new shoots make their appearance, to cut out any dead wood, or occasionally it may be necessary to shorten a shoot in order to maintain the symmetrica] character of the specimen. ROSE GARDEN. STANDARD ROSES FOR TOWN GARDENS (Blen/ieim). — The note on standard il-jses for town gardens that you desire appeared in The Gv^iDEN for April II. Reference to standards is as follows : " The two varieties better than all others for standard Roses are Hugh Dickson and Frau Karl Druschki, and having regard to the difficulty of obtaining good heads in the average town garden, most growers would do w.il to rely entirely upon these two sorts. Others whic i may be grown with fair, if not equal, hopes of success are Mme. ,\bel Chatenay, Caroline Testout, Mme. Ravary, Lady Ashtowm, J. B. Clark. Joseph Hill, I\Ime. Melanie Soupert and La Tosca." ROSE FORTUNE'S YELLOW SHEDDING ITS FOLIAGE (Spa).—This Rose does not take kindly to pot cultun-. It may be owing to the sudden changes of the weather, but we rather think it is over-watering and the insutlicieni ripening of the growths. It would be much better if you could plant out the Rose under glass ; it would have its growtli better ripened. One of the secrets regarding the successful culture of this Rose lies in the pruning. .\s soon as it lias ci ased lilooming, prune back hard all side growths, cut tingtheTuclnsr lot he main shoots. Newgro^vths will soon appear. The weakest shoots should be thinned o\it during the summer, and wlien growth has fluished cut back liard all side shoots that have sprung from the other growths during the summer, and just remove the ends of the main growths. .Vlford good drainage and, whi-n watering, give water copiously; then be careful only to water when required. THE GREENHOUSE. SCHIZANTHUS DYING OFF (At her static). -The Sehi- zanthus is appan-ntly attacked by a fungus nearly allied to that whicli produces a similar disease in Tomatoes. Tliore is no cure, i>nd it would bo well to sterilise all the soil used in seed sowing and growing ol these plants in future, as in all probability the spores are carried in the soil. GARDEN. ^^ No. 2218.— Vol. LXXVIII. \ May 23, 1914. NOTES OF THE WEEK. A Useful Wall Plant. — Erinus alpinus, in its varied forms, is a gem among plants tliat are adapted for planting on old walls, and one that is established without the least trouble if the seeds are sown in chinks or cracks, or even in moss if there is any on the wall. Such places look very bright at the present time, and will con- tinue so for many weeks. All should grow it who have an old wall, for it will succeed there, while it often perishes on the flat ground if the soil is of a very heavy nature. Lieutenant - Colonel Sir George HolJord, K.C.V.O., C.I.E.— It affords us considerable pleasure to be able to repro- duce a recent and excellent photograph of Lieutenant-Colonel Sir George Holford, Sir George is a deservedly popular member of the Council of the Royal Horticultural Society, and his valuable services are willingly and freely given on behalf ol the Fellows. Visitors to the society's exhibitions will remember with very keen pleasure the magnificent groups of Orchids, Hippeastrums and other flowers that Sir George sends from his charming gardens at Westonbirt, Tetbury, Gloucestershire. At the great International Show held at Chelsea two years ago, his group of Orchids was easily the best that has ever been staged in this or any other country, not only on account of the rarity and wonder- ful variety of the plants, but also for the highly artistic manner in which they were arranged. It will be interesting to recall the fact that this magnificent group was awarded the cup offered by the King foi the best exhibit in the show. Sir George was an Equerry to the late King Edward from rSgz to igro, since when he has been Equerry to Queen Alexandra and an Extra Equerry to His Majesty the King. A Beautiful Spring-flowering Tree. In Amelanchier canadensis, the Snowy Mespilus, we have one of the finest ot early blooming trees, and one that is not nearly so well known as it deserves to be. Its mantle of snowy white blossoms, which are disposed on short racemes and are so numerous that the tree becomes an almost complete sheet of white, produces a fine effect in spring and early summer. The usefulness of the species is enhanced by the fact that it flowers from the commence- ment, and plants i foot to 2 feet high bloom as freely as a tree 20 feet in height. It may be used in groups, or in a bed by itself, and in the autumn it is again made attractive by the richness of its deep red foliage. Leaf-Blister on Peaeh Trees. — We have lately received many complaints about leaf-blister on Peach and Nectarine trees. Tliis is caused mainly by cold wind, and especially after warm weather. The only remedy for this is to remove the leaves which are worst affected, and to encourage healthy growth as quickly as possible. The preventive is, of course, warm covering, which cannot always be applied. When warm weather sets in, the purple LIEUTENANT -COLON EL SIR GEORGE LINDSAY HOLFORD, K.C.V.O., CLE. syrhig*-., if applied twice daily, will soon restore such trees to good health. Spring Bedding in a Scottish Garden.— .\ charming bit of spring bedding has been seen this year at St. Mary's Isle, Kirkcudbright, the seat of Captain Hope, R.N. This consists of a scheme of beds of the double Arabis dotted with plants of Sutton's Royal Blue Myosotis, with others of Wallflowers, both golden yellow and blood red. The effect of the snowv .Arabis and the brilliant blue of the Myosotis is e.xceedingly fine, and Mr. Jeffrey, Captain Hope's gardener, is to be congratulated on the success of his scheme. A Charming Little Bock Plant.— Draba pyrenaica, perhaps better known by the name of Petrocallis pyrenaica, should always have a place, even when the very choicest of alpines only are grown. Just now it is opening its delicate grey or heliotrope coloured flowers, which completely cover the whole plant, which is only an inch or so high. The colour may be termed a quiet one, but good patches are very effective. It requires a well-drained soil and a good open position. It is a charming little plant for the moraine, where it appears quite at home. A New Hybrid Bomarea. — In the Botanic Garden, Cambridge, a beautifu! hybrid Bomarea is flowering for the first time. It is the result of crossing B. cal- dasiana with B. patacocensis, the former being the seed-bearing parent. It will undoubtedly prove to be a useful green- liouse climber, being quite intermediate between the two parents, having the free- flowering habit of B. caldasiana with some of the rich colour of the pollen parent, but of a much brighter red. It has been named B. Banksii, after the raiser, Mr. G. Banks if the Botanic Garden, Cambridge. An Effective Combination of Wild Flowers. — While passing a wood the other day we were very much struck by the effect obtained from our common Bluebell mixed with the Greater Stitchwort or Satin Flower, Stellaria Holostea. The wood was a mass of blue, while on the edge of it were masses of the Stellaria growing among the Blue- bells. The pure wliite of the Stitchwort formed a striking contrast to the deep blue. This is only one of the numerous instances how many of our native flowers could be used with good effect, particularly in some of the wilder parts of the garden. Top - Dressing Lilium speciosum. — Plants which are growing freely and which were potted with the idea of top-dressing sliou'd now receive attention. No great quantity of soil ought to be placed round the bulbs at one time. It is better to top-dress again when the young roots are pushing through the surface. The soil mav con- sist of turfy loam and leaf-soil, with a small quantity of decayed cow-manure and rough silver sand. As the shoots develop they should be carefully secured to neat stakes, and as aphides are sometimes trouble- some, the plants may receive an occasional fumiga- tion with nicotine compound to keep them in check. 254 THE GARDEN. [:\iav 1914. GORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents.) Use of Grass Cuttings. — Forcing Rhubarb and Seakale out of doors with manure never seems to me a very clean way of managing. Even when the manure is only round the pots, some is apt to fall in when they are moved. It is a better plan to save grass dippings and make them into hay. Through the summer these can be mixed with the last fresh ones from the autumn cutting, and, piled round the Seakale pots, will make a splendid lining for the forcing-pit in the winter. — Ethel Case, Bishops Waltham, Hants, Effects ol the Recent Cold Weather.— For- tunately for ardent horticulturists, such a severe frost as was experienced on the evening of May i and in the early hours of May 2 is seldom known in May. afforded by midday on the znd inst. ample food for thought. — H. Turner, Serlby Gardens, Bawtry, Yorks. Alpines on an Old Weil-Head.— The photo- graph of the ancient well-head shows the cushion of Saxifraga Boydii alba to the left of the stone, as Mr. E. H. Jenkins, on page 214, issue May 2, wished to know what had become of the white sport of S. Boydii all this time. Our district is situated near the ancient Roman causeway Augusta- Vindobona, the Augsburg- Regensburg of the present day, and several redoubts and camps occur in this neighbourhood. There is little doubt that these well-heads, of which several were in the village, were fetched from a tufa quarry some thirty miles distant. They were each cut out of a solid block. They are about sixty inches across, and the thickness of the upper and lower rims is about nine inches, while the space between them recedes about one and a-half AN ANCIENT WELL-HEAD PLANTED WITH ALPINES IN A BAVARIAN GARDEN. Here in this district (South Yorks) readings varied from 10° up to 14°, and the loss, as may easily be imagined, is most serious to fruit-growers. Notwithstanding very dry atmospheric conditions and the soil also dry. Plums and Damsons, even with the foliage well advanced, have been almost entirely ruined. Pears and Apples, too, I fear (although rather too early to say definitely) have had fully 75 per cent, of the crop killed, and this, 1 am sorry to add, after prospects were excep- tionally bright. Currants and Strawberries, where unprotected, were likewise visited, but Gooseberries suffered little. In park and shrubbery, also, ample evidence may be found of how bitterly cold it has been. Some of the old Oaks look as though they had been badly scorched, and Sweet Chestnuts are equally sorry pictures, while even the common Laurel and Box trees had all new growth " nipped " badly. Japanese Maples and Wistarias appear to have been especially sought out, and what was on the afternoon of the ist inst. a sight worth seeing of the latter, inches. The place where the bucket was usually set down is noticeable in a deeply worn-out gap. When proper spring-water works were introduced, these well-heads become superfluous, and it was quite by chance that I was able to save one of them by paying los. for it, else it would, like its com- rades, have been broken off for road-making. It had already been broken in two. I joined it together again, filled it in with a very stony com- post, and planted it with alpines, which feel quite at home on it. To the left is seen the large tuft of the sport of S. Boydii alba of fifteen years ago ; then follow Androsace Chumbyi (not in flower yet), Saxifraga Elizabethae (the large dark plot), S. valdensis, S. Aizoon rosea, S. cochlearis, S. albino Genderi, Dianthus microlepis, Leontopodium alpinum, Alsine Rosanii, Globularia nana and Erinacea pungens. Down the back, not visible, is a patch of nearly a square foot of Saxifraga apiculata and another of S. oppositifolia, S. lata (Schott.), Paronychia, Primula Auricula, Ramondia pyrenaica, several Sempcrvivums and other things. The pride of the show, Saxifraga longifolia, which again reached 12 inches in diameter, flowered last year, and has not been replaced yet. I propose furnishing the spot with S. longifolia x cochlearis, which has similar flowers, but has the advantage of producing new rosettes after flowering. — E. Heinrich, Planegg, Bavavia. Lithospermum Gastonii. — Gaston's Gromwell is one of the most charming of all, but it possesses one great drawback in the minds of the would-be cultivator — it is remarkably troublesome in its ways. A good writer and cultivator says of it , with justice also, that it is " fairly hardy but rather difficult to cifltivate. . . . One of the choicest of the whole family. They are lucky indeed with whom it will thrive." Some others have less difficulty, but the plant always remains comparatively scarce and is exceedingly trouble- some to establish. It is well worth the trouble, so beautiful indeed is this g-inch-high Gromwell, with its terminal clusters of azure blue, white- eyed flowers, borne for a while in the summer months. My object in writing this note is to point out that it may establish itself in what are unortho- dox places, and that no one should despair of success without perseveringly attempting it under various conditions. Previous to an upheaval caused by removal I had established it in rockwork between stones in light sandy loam ; but I was quite unprepared to see it not oidy growing but spreading freely in an ordinary border. This was in the garden of Mr. John Ferguson, The Hermitage, Duns — the raiser, by the way, of the delightful little Saxifraga Fergusonii. — S. Arnott, Dumfries. Primulas Causing Rash.— Your correspondent " J. D.," in your issue of May 16, page 238, voices a warning concerning the rash-producing properties of Primula obconica, which are all too well known to many who have had it in their houses. I am sorry to see P. malacoides grouped with it, and, in common, no doubt, with many of those who admire that plant, would be glad to learn whether others have suffered from handling it, and whether the evidence for condemning it in " J. D.'s " case is quite clear of possible complication with P. obconica. It is a curious thing that many persons can handle the latter plant with impunity, while others cannot even handle its seeds without incurring the danger of rash, and momentary contact with the foliage, as in brushing past it, is, with them, sufficient to ensure irritation. In his admirable paper on Chinese Primulas read at the Primula Conference and printed in the Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society, Vol. XXXIX., Part i. Professor Bayley Balfour says : " Primula sinolisteri is a plant of special horticultural interest. It was introduced in 1908 by Bees, Limited, grown from Forrest's seeds, and promises to be in our gardens what P. obconica, Hance, ought to have been, but is not. P. sinolisteri, BaU. fils, has not the irritant hairs. It is a free grower, forming compact masses of dark green, acutely lobed leaves, and the trusses of white (sometimes lilac) flowers are many. In our northern climate it is not quite hardy — like true P. obconica, Hance, in that respect. It was sent out as P. Listeri, King — a venial error of naming — and the name sinohsteri has been given in the hope of making the change of nomen- clature less disturbing. P. sinolisteri, Balf. fils, is I am sure a plant of horticultural merit." It is evident that in P. sinolisteri your correspondent would have a plant that would exactly fit the purpose he requires it for. — Fred J. Chittenden. May 23, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 255 The Earliest Rose. — In reference to the question raised in May 9 issue by " C. T." as to the date of the earliest Rose bloom, I may state that I had a good flower of Bouquet d'Or open on April 20. The root of the plant is against an east-north-east wall, but the part r< the plant on which the bloom made its appearance is trained against a wall with a south-south-east aspect. — E. A. C. McCuRDY, Oakdene. Ashlead, Surrey. Primula ciliata purpurea. — Under this name I have a very fine hardy Primula, which belongs apparently to the varied and doubtfully descended class in which P. Auricula and P. hirsuta have a share. It is exceedingly handsome this year in a low, peaty bed which is moist all the winter, and which is treated to occasional soakings with pure water in the summer in dry weather. A good plant is very handsome with its large, prettily toothed leaves and its handsome trusses of purple, golden-eyed flowers. It evidently relishes the cool conditions under which it is grown, and casts in the shade a number of other plants growing in the same bed. The position is one which is largely shaded from the afternoon sun. — S. Arnott. A Beautiful Tree in Scotland. — Nicholson speaks of Dimorphanthus mandschuricus, an interesting and ornamental plant, as a shrub, but I prefer to regard it as a tree. It is so seldom seen in Scotland that I think its hardiness must be considered doubtful, for anyone who knows it must agree that its striking inflorescence and subtropical-looking foliage entitle it to a foremost position among our ornamental trees, or shrubs if you please. Not only does it do well in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, where I know of several good trees, but last season I came upon several healthy specimens at Dunecht, Aberdeenshire, the Scottish seat of Lord and Lady Cowdray. Dunecht is about thirteen miles from the coast, and it is no unusual experience there to have the thermometer down to zero. Of course, it is well to select a sheltered situation for this stranger from Manchuria, else its huge leaves are apt to be damaged by high winds. — Charles Comfort, Midlothian. Sweet Peas: The Question of Scent. — it is feared that recent improvements in regard to the size of Sweet Peas have been made, in part at least, at the expense of their perfume. Unfortu- nately, the trend of the modem grower is to endeavour to produce what can only rightly be described as abnormal blooms on ultra-long stems, regardless of one of the flower's undoubted fascinations for the table — that of fragrance, with the result of the above-mentioned deteriora- tion. The advent of the waved type brought about the first sign of this decadence, and now the delicious scent of a freshly cut bunch of the old (out of date) grandiflora sorts is to be cherished only as a sweet memory, unless, of course, one still grows for this original quality. The old cream variety, Hon. Mrs. Kenyon, was possessed of a delightful scent, which, in a somewhat lesser degree, is to be found in Clara Curtis and Queen Victoria Spencer. From that finest of all whites, Dorothy Eckford, very sweetly scented, we get a weaker quality fragrance in Moneymaker and Etta Dyke ; while the old lavender favourite, Lady Grisel Hamilton, hands down some of its perfume through Frank Dolby, but less in that mammoth variety R. F. Felton, so dear to every exhibitor's heart. The lavenders or mauves are, however, all more or less still nicely scented. Speaking generally, my experience teaches me that the less the "^^av«'" of a variety the more fragrant will it be found. I will conclude these brief remarks with the mention of what, out of varieties which I have grown on my light soil (leaving out of consideration grandifloras, except Dorothy Eckford, which still remains the best white in colour, substance and scent) I consider to be the six most fragrant, in order of degree : Paradise Ivory, Dorothy Eckford, Clara Curtis, Queen Victoria Spencer, Frank Dolby and Money- maker.— B. W. Lewis. Slug-Harbouring Alpines. — In my recently published book, " The Small Rock Garden," there is to be found a chapter — very brief, it is true — on the " Animal Pests of the Rock Garden," and, seeing that the ubiquitous slug is therein characterised as the " worst " of such pests, the subject of the present note may be considered as nearly related thereto. The first thing the rock gardener or lover of alpines must realise is that the slug is always present, and though he may appear to be taking his "days off" in a more or less erratic way, he may still be found asleep under cover of a neighbouring plant. Hence the title of this note. In other words, certain plants, such as Aubrietias, Veronicas, Phlox subulata varieties, Acaena and the like, all of which have prostrate, spreading tufts of leaves, may justly be regarded as of a slug-harbouring nature ; and, of course, they are not alone. For the moment, however, it is the principle to which I would direct attention, the knowledge of wiiere to look for this much-to-be-dreaded pest, which, while making nightly raids upon the choicest things a rock garden contains, does not remain in the immediate vicinity of such plants, but betakes himself to the friendly shelter of the slug- harbouring alpine, where he is content in the seclusion, shelter and uniform moisture such plants afford. To be quite sure of the reason for the slug betaking himself to such quarters, one has only to examine a slate, piece of board, or sack that has lain upon the ground for a few days, there to find one or more slugs invariably present. Hence, realising that the reason for his retreat is seclusion and cover, the gardener has only to imitate such conditions to get the slug into the trap. A portion of a rather thick Deal plank is excellent, better perhaps, for some reason unknown to me, than either the slate or sack ; and thougJi such things may appear a little unsightly in the rock garden, unsightliness is more easily endured than the ravages a few slugs may create. A surprising thing about the slug is the distance it will travel to. get a bite from some choice morsel of alpine vegetation ; hence one can only imagine that its sense of smell or appreciation following an earlier meal must be very keen. In the past we have been content to try a Cabbage leaf or two, but these are not of great service unless the whole of the under surface of the leaf is practi- cally in touch with the soil. In the case of the wood trap, rough, partly worn planks have been found better than new, the slugs invariably clinging to the wood and not congregating on the soil. Damp wood, too, is better than dry ; moisture, indeed, would appear an essential condition. — E. H. Jenkins. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. May 25. — Linncan Society's Anniversary Meeting at 3 p.m. Rhododendron Show at the Royal Hor- ticultural Society's Hall, Westminster (five days). May 28. — Bath and West and Southern Counties Society's Show at Swansea (five days). Royal Botanic Society's Meeting. OUR COMPBTITION FOR PLANNING & PLANTING THE LITTLE GARDEN. AS fully announced in our last issue, we are offering cash prizes of the total value of £33 I2S., as well as a i number of book prizes, for the ^ best designs for planning and plant- ing the little garden. Four typical sites, such as are usually met with for small gardens, have been chosen, and competitors may send in designs for one or all of the sites. The rules and conditions governing this com- petition are to be found in last week's issue, together with the " application form " which is to be used by the competitors. In case some readers did not secure that issue, they can enter the competition by filling in and posting to the Editor the form printed on page IV. This form must be accompanied by four penny stamps to cover the cost of the sheets on which outline plans of the sites are given and on which the designs for planning and planting are to be drawn. One of the objects of this competition is to emphasise the fact that the little garden can, and should, be planned and planted with as much care and taste as gardens of more pretentious dimensions. For this reason we hope that as many of our readers as possible will compete for at least one of the sites. The competition has already attracted considerable attention, and general satisfaction has been expressed that judges of architectural features as well as of actual planting have been chosen. So great has been the demand for last week's issue that it is practically out of print, but copies of the rules and the conditions of entry can be obtained on application, and will be sent post free on receipt of three halfpenny stamps. Ample time has been allowed for sending in the plans, in order that busy gardeners may have full opportunities of competing, and that our numerous foreign and Colonial readers may join in the competition. THE GAPE BLADDER SENNA. This beautiful flowering greenhouse shrub (Suther- 'andia frutescens), is at its best as a rule in July and August. It forms an upright-growing plant, clothed with pretty pinnate foliage of a greyish hue. The drooping scarlet flowers, which are about one and a-half inches in length, are very suggestive of those of Clianthus puniceus. These are in their turn succeeded by inflated seed - pods, whence the popular name is derived. It was introduced from South Africa in 1683, and has long been grown as a greenhouse plant. Within the last few years it has, however, become very popular as dot plants for summer bedding, for specimens about three feet high will flower profusely. Last year it was very effective at Battersea Park, a large bed being planted with the variegated Holcus moUis and the crimson Begonia semperflorens Ruby, edged with a broad band of Koniga maritima. As dot plants over the bed were good examples of Sutherlandia frutescens in full flower, the general effect being a very pleasing one. It can be struck from cuttings of the young shoots, taken in spring, inserted into pots of sandy soil, and placed in a close propagating-case till rooted. Plants so propagated will flower in a smaller state than seedlings. 256 THE GARDEN. [May 23, 1914. WATER-SIDE GARDENING. we garden on a large or small scale, there will not be found wanting material of a suitable kind. COMPARED with former times, when Hence the larger areas may indulge the stately the chief inhabitants of lake, stream- j Reeds, as Arundo Donax in variety (where these let or pond were little more than an are suificiently hardy), the bolder Bamboos, imkempt mass of coarse grass or giant Groundsels, Polygonum or Pampas Grass, other herbage, the beautifying of the I while not forgetting the handsome Gunnera, water-side to-day is almost reduced ) which appears in splendid isolation above the :o a fine art. In proof of this the reader has only 1 Irises in the picture. Among hardy herbaceous to turn to the front page cover of the present | perennials the Gunnera knows no peer, whether issue. There will be seen at a glance all that is ' viewed from the standpoint of noble aspect or best In foliage and flower beauty — a superb fore- picturesque beauty. The plant, too, is at home by BERBERIS STENOPHYLLA EFFECTIVELY PLANTED BY THE WATER-SIDE. FLOWED j AND IS QUITE HARDY. IT HAS GOLDEN YELLOW room for full development as opposed to that species of massing which robs a plant of its right of action, it will not be lacking admirers. There are also Primulas of high merit for the cool, moist or sequestered spots of the garden, with Rodger- sias, Saxifraga peltata and Trilliums. Of the Primulas, such as rosea, japonica, pulverulenta and Sieboldii in variety all delight in moisture, whether at or near the water's edge or in woodland shade. Last, though by no means least, there is the great array of Japanese Irises (I. laevigata), of which a splendid grouping is portrayed on the front page. Rich in variety, producing shades of blue, white, red, crimson, and violet in single or semi-double flowers that may be anything from 6 inches to 10 inches across, they are gorgeous in the extreme, occupying a pedestal of their own for high ornament and flower beauty. No pen-picture could adequately por- tray the merits of this great and fitting final to a genus itself unique. They are usually in flower in July and August. If in conclusion one might add a cultural note, it would be to say that soil and soil richness to these water-side plants cannot with impunity be ignored. By some the [water — the moisture — has been regarded all in all, but it is only true in part. In conjunction there should be sweetness and the soil richness above reierred to. Then, the " moisture-loving " subject should not be transformed into an aquatic. These Irises are a case in point. Revelling in rich food supplies, and coolness or moisture within reach of their root-fibres, they resent the permanently sub- merged condition, and unmistak- ably when planted in brick earth. In lighter loams or those ground mirrored into fullest life by a foil savouring of the ideal. Within the limits of such a setting as the picture portrays it would be possible to accomplish much — possibi' indeed, by inserting some of the b.«t of Nat;- -'s jewels to display both the gems and the setting at their fullest worth. Herein lies the " art which doth mend Nature," and the gardener who accomplishes so much has already elevated the gardening art to the highest rank. It mav be said that a scene like that depicted would only be possible in like circumstances ; that the picture minus tho frame- work would lose halt its charm. Exactly. At the same time I would point out that it is the wedding of the two which constitutes so beauteous a whole. One may look in vain for incongruities, only to find a picture of high ornament and realistic efieot. As a whole it is ideal ; invaluable as an object-lesson, even if not possible in all circum- stances of reproduction in detail. To have such a picture in the mind's eye when engaging in wati _•- sida gardening would be worth much. To moula, modify or adapt to special requirements is the work of the moment, and with the ideal in view the gardener need not err. It is all a question ot making the most of .opportunities ; and whether rich in vegetable matter in which the water-side, and though not requiring its roots the roots can ramify freely, they give of their submerged, revels in cool places and rich and deep best, and in their season are a source of pleasure -oils. There are boldness and distinction, too, and delight. E. H. Jenkins. Ml the towering creamy plumes of giant Astilbe .^^^——^^—^—^—^———^^^ and Goat's-beard Spirtea, the last-named genus also affording colour shades of pink. and carmine BERBERIS STENOPHYLLA. n jt found elsewhere. Then for flower beauty This beautiful Barberry is said to be a hybrid and grace combined none can compare with the between Berberis empetrifolia and B. Darwinii. tall-growing North American Panther Lily, whose Its successful cultivation presents no difficulty, as crimson flower-shafts, 8 feet or more in height, it seems to grow well on most soils and situations, show well amid willowy Bamboos and delight in 1 and it can be used successfully for almost any posi- their shelter-affording sheaves. These Lilies are tion in the pleasure ground. As an isolated lawn most happy in peaty earth, though soil richness 1 specimen it is particularly graceful, its long, is much to their lildng. ! slender shoots spraying over with a fountain-like For smaller areas the gardener may indulge ; effect, which is beautiful at all seasons, but especially in the newer Astilbes, hybrid descendants of A. 1 so when the plant is covered with a profusion sinensis, A, s. Davidii and others, which are of bright golden yellow flowers, almost hiding peculiarly adapted for the water-side. There ' the foliage from view. It is also eminently is also the unique Spiraea palmata from Japan, suited for planting rough and steeply sloping than wliich no herbaceous land is so endowed j banks, where it gives a beautiful cascade-like with flower wealth. Given deep, rich, cool soils effect. It is equally at home on the margins of or root moisture, the spreading rosy carmine [ woods and shrubberies, and also planted in good cymes of blossoms appeal to all, the well-marked bold masses in thin woods. In common with leafage being appropriate for so meritorious a plant, many members of this family, it does not transplant Two and a-half feet or 3 feet high, amply habited well when it is large ; but young plants present and self-supporting, it is a plant for all, and, given no difficulty in this respect. May 23, 19T4.] THE GARDEN. 257 It is surprising that it is not largely used as a hedge or screen, for which purpose it is very ■beautiful ; but it should not be clipped with the shears, as this destroys the character of the plant. The trimming or pruning should be done with the knife, simply picking out and shortening back the too strong and rampant shoots. This operation is best done after it has finished flowering. Trimmed in this way, the hedge is kept sufficiently dense and the graceful habit of the plant preserved. In the Southern Counties its flowering season is usually from the end of April to the middle of May. The plant is easily propagated by means of layers laid down during the autumn, or by cuttings of the ripened wood put in sandy soil in a cold frame. BORDER CARNATIONS FROM SEED. THAT the border Carnation is an easy plant to grow to perfection few would maintain, but in spite of recent opinion to the contrary, I firmly believe that in most parts of these islands this plant can be very successfully grown without the aid of glass. In the moister parts of Britain I believe it would be difficult, for though layers which are well established in autumn will withstand severe frost with impunity, they will quickly 3 succumb if their roots come in con- tact with stagnant moisture, and damp atmospheric conditions are most favourable to the fungoid diseases, which are, perhaps, the worst foes with which the Carnation grower has to contend. These diffi- culties are greatly reduced in well- drained districts ; but from plant- ing in September to flowering in August is a long way, and when wireworm and eelworm, slug and sparrow, aphis, rust and spot have this long period in which to take their toll, there is small wonder that the outdoor culture of Car- nations is a difficult, though pos- sible, task. To be successful, a great deal of time, ingenuity and patience are esirable, even to make the best of .a few hundred plants, and many ■have not the requisite time, with- out which skill and enthusiasm are of little avail. There are doubtless many who have tried Carnation- ' growing under these conditions, and .'a^i- -< 1 their efforts have ended in disaster, and these are they who are easily led to believe that the border Carna- tion is a difficult plant, a specialist's fancy, and as such best left to him with as little envy as possible. To these — who would grow Carnations, but have had trouble with named varieties — I should like to recommend the trial of seedlings. To those who have not done so, a new delight is in store. But here a word of warning : there are seedlings ■and seedlings. If ever there were a time when something could readily be obtained for nothing, such time has gone, and if Carnation seed is to be sown, it is waste of time to use anything but the fcest. Several specialists in Britain, whose reputa- tion is world-wide, retail hand-fertilised Carnation seeds at half-a-crown for the hundred, and a better investment a gardener cannot make. There will be more genuine pleasure from such a packet than from . pound of the inferior stuff often sold as Carnation seed. This is the first point ; the second is, sow early. May is a good month to sow, and seed- lings which are above ground by the end of the month will prove very satisfactory. The seed germinates quickly, and the seedlings are very liable to damp off unless care is exercised in watering. As soon as they can be handled, prick off into boxes or sheltered beds, and by the third week in July they will probably be about the size of small layers, and should then be planted in their per- manent quarters. A plot well manured for the previous crop should be made very firm, and the plants put in 16 inches apart each way, a wider alley between every series of five rows proving very useful at a later stage. Planted very firmly in this manner, they will be well established before winter, and will make a useful root system, though top growth will not be great until spring, when the beautiful green-grey shoots quite possibly no two plants in the batch being alike ; but though each may not be a Daffodil or Elizabeth Schiffner, there is sure to be some- thing, at any rate, worth preserving, if only for one's own use, and there are always with these plants the pride of the raiser and the sense of something accomplished which more than recompenses for some slight fault of form or colour to which a mere florist or envious neighbour might point. If this be not too long already, I should like to add a census I took of the results of one packet of seeds bought from a leading grower in the South : Sowed, April 27, 1911 : 100 seeds ; plants, 93 ; singles, 3 ; selfs, 23 ; fancies, 23 ; white-ground Picotees, 3 ; yellow-ground Picotees, ii ; flakes, 14 ; bizarres, 5 ; did not bloom, 7 ; died through various causes, 4. The number of singles alone speaks for the quality of the seeds. East Yorhs. F. M. S. WISLEY GARDENS IN MAY. While visitors are attending the Royal Horti- cultural Society's Show at Chelsea in almost alarming numbers, only comparatively few find CYTISUS PURGANS GROWING AMONG HARDY FERNS AT WISLEY. must be protected, where sparrows are abundant, [ by black thread tightly stretched across the beds. , To the writer's eye, there is no more pleasing sight in a garden than a bed of healthy Carnations at this season. Timely and careful staking, and an assisting 1 sprinkling of manure, will bring the time of bloom- 1 ing along, generally a month earlier than that of j layered plants ; and to examine the shapely calyces morning after morning is a mingled pleasure and exasperation — they are often so slow in opening that it is almost impossible to keep itching fingers from assisting in the revelation of | self or flake, quaint bizarre or dainty Picotee, their way to the society's beautiful Surrey gardens at Wisley. The Roclf Garden. — This is one of the more recent additions at Wisley, and it is destined to be one of the great features of these beautiful gardens. Bright patches of colour crop up here and there among huge boulders of rock, and the whole scene appears like a mountain slope clothed with richly coloured alpine flowers. There are Saxifragas in endless variety. S. decipiens and S. Wallacei make bright patches of white, while S. Red Admiral and S. bathoniensis vie with one another in brilliant red hues. The alpine 258 THE GARDEN. [May 23, 1914. Wallflowers in orange yellow tones make a pleasing contrast to the Iberis and Arabis, which look like drifts of snow in the distance. Aubrietias in varying shades of purple, Arenarias and Violas in variety also lend pleasing shades of colour in the rock garden. Primula involucrata, too, is lookiug very dainty under the shelter of a rocky ledge, while in bright sunshine Gentians are induced to open their flowers of steely blue far more freely than they usually do in an English garden. In damp and shady places the American Wood Lily is flowering freely, while the moraine is full of interesting gems, some of which promise to flower well a little later on. Flowering Shrubs. — Now that the Prunuses are passing over, the Hawthorns, Lilacs and Labiunums keep up a succession of blossom among the trees and shrubs. Viburnums, too, are very fine, and the same may be said of the COLOURED PLATE. PliATB 1494. TWO NEW ''HEN in w NERINES. flower, Nerines are among the most beautiful of all greenhouse bulbous plants. Some of the flowers are of beautiful art shades in colour, and many of them when seen in sunlight show a diamond-dust effect on the petals which is truly exquisite. The varieties Dainty Maid and Glory of Samia were shown before the Royal Horticultural Society in October last by Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, to whom we are indebted for the following par- ticulars and for the flowers from which oiu: coloured plate has been prepared. Both varieties were raised by Messrs. Charles Smith and Sons of Guernsey. temperature of 45° to 50°. The mistake which is often made in growing them is that they are given too much warmth. It is very important that they should have an abundance of air and light. The bulbs ought to be potted up in the Slimmer in a compost of rich sandy loam with a little charcoal, and when in growth should be watered freely, a little liquid mantire being occa- sionally given them. During the winter a free foliage growth must be encouraged, and when this begins to turn yellow in the spring the watering should be suspended and the pots placed on a warm, sunny shelf." A BEAUTIFUL COLONY OF PRIMULA JAPONICA IN THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S GARDENS AT WISLEY. Brooms, of which Cytisus purgans is unquestion- ably one of the very best. This species has bright golden yellow flowers, and it is said to be one of the parents of C. precox, the other supposed parent being C. albus. The Azalea garden is now a perfect mass of colour in warm tones of orange, yellows and fiery reds. There are no other flowers that can vie with Azaleas for colour effect. In the Wild Garden.— The greatest charm of these gardens we leave until the last. It is the wild garden, preserved in much the same form as it was in the days of Mr. G. F. Wilson, the late owner. Here may be seen Primula japonica in tens of thousands under the shade of trees and clothing the banks of a small stream. Our illus- tration shows a winding pathway through the woodland with a wealth of flower on either side. On another page will be found a reference to the Tulip trials at Wisley. " The parentage of Dainty Maid is Nerine crispa (seed parent) x N. Fothergillii (pollen parent). It is a very elegant and delicately coloured variety, growing 16 inches high and having an umbel of flowers measiuring 5 inches across. The floral segments are narrow and prettily undulated, and of a delicate flesh colour. The parentage of Glory of Samia is N. coruscans major (seed-bearing parent) x N. Fothergillii major (pollen parent). This is a most brilliantly coloured variety, producing umbels of medium- sized flowers, and with prettily recurved and undu- lating floral segments ; colour, lustrous fiery orange scarlet, having the appearance of being bespangled with gold ; height, 16J inches. This plant received an award of merit from the Royal Horticultural Society. " With regard to culture, these Nerines are easily grown in a cool greenhouse having a winter RAISING NEW ROSES. [In Answer to a Correspondent.] We are glad you find The Garden so interesting- It must be a great joy to yourself to read of what others are doing, even though deprivedl by sickness from entering into the work more fuUy yomrself. If you have a small greenhouse, you could produce some seedling Roses, for it is very simple, and although you could not carry out the work upon scientific lines as do the great raisers, yet there would be a rich fund of pleasure accruing even from a small effort. The novel- ties are raised from seeds produced under glass. Established plants are made to bloom about March and April, and their flowers cross-fertilised. Suppose you desired to obtain a cross between, say, Willowmere — which we may illustrate during the summer — and Rayon d'Or, you would contrive to have these two Roses in bloom at the same time. Before the flower of Willowmere had developed, 5'ou would remove all the petals, then cut away the stamens before the pollen grains burst. These pollen grains are con- tained in the stamens, as you doubt- less know. The flower would then have its pistils remaining. Upon these pistils the pollen would be transferred by a camel-hair brush from the de- veloped flower of Rayon d'Or, and in coiurse of time the fruit, seed-pod or hep would appear. This is allowed to hang upon the plant until ripe, that is, imtil it turns yellow or red, whichever the case may be, for these fruits of the Rose assume remarkable colomrs and shapes, some appearing like miniature ripe Jargonelle Pears, others round like miniature Tomatoes. When the fruits or heps are ripe, they are placed in damp sand, and at Christmas the seeds are taken out and sown in pots or boxes. Sometimes one pod or hep contains as many as thirty seeds, and if all of these germinated they would most probably all be different, some worthless, others perhaps superior to either parent, for, you see, there is always an element of chance. One may produce a really startling novelty from just a pod or two, or one may sow thousands of seeds and not obtain a novelty of merit. But we view the matter from the same point as the late Lord Penzance, who raised the Penzance Briars. He said that if the novelties were not of very great merit, they at least gave their raisers varieties no one else possessed, and to have such growing in one's garden must add greatly to its charm. Supple)iieiit to THE GARDEN, May iiird, 1914 TWO BEAUTIFUL NERINES Pink: Dainty Maid. Scarlet : Glory of Sarnia. Hudson -S; Kctirns, Ltd., London, S.B. May 23, 1914. THE GARDEN. 259 REVIEW OF THE SPRING SHOW AT CHELSEA. EQUALLY as good in quality and far better arranged than the International Show of 1912 aptly describes the great spring exhibition of the Royal Horti- cultural Society which opened at the Chelsea Hospital Grounds on Tuesday last. This year the Large Tent, covering an area of over two acres, is devoted to groups arranged"'on the floor, so that visitors have ample room to walk between them and admire the flowers. This is an im- provement on the last show, when the tables in this tent were too close together and the gangways too narrow, with the result that visitors had considerable difficulty in moving about. The ventilation of all the tents, too, has been considerably improved, and it is evident that the Council are making efforts to study the con- venience of visitors. Outdoors, rock and for- mal gardens abound. In many instances these leave little to be desired, good taste, both in planning and planting, being evident. In a few instances, however, there seems to have been a peculiar lack of restraint in the use of stone. One would have thought that the enormous expense of conveying many tons of stone to an exhibition would have had the effect of keeping this in its proper proportions. We hope the day will never arrive when this great show will more closely resemble a stone-mason's yard than a series of natural gardens. In surveying these rock and formal gardens we were rather at a loss to under- stand the curious mixtures of natural gardens and artificial displays that the Council have tolerated. We cannot conceive anything less gratifying to the mind or eye than well-designed rock gardens cheek by jowl with glaring white and gold pillars and teak-wood seats. This indiscriminate letting of sites for sundries is not to the ultimate advan- tage of the society, though the pecuniary reward at the moment may be a considera- tion. The tea tent, also, necessary as it was, could surely have been more appro- priately situated than between two sets of rock gardens. Red and white striped canvas does not harmonise with grey linae-stone. Queen Alexandra graciously visited the FORMAL GARDENS. The formal gardens are not numerous, but by introducing a pliase constitutes a most interesting show on Tuesday morning, and spent \ feature. a considerable time in admiring the flowers. So far as we could gather, on the opening day visi^^c-s were more numerous than ever, and it is evident that interest in horticulture is still on the upward QUEEN ALEXANDRA AT In this department Messrs. Thomas Crowther and Sons, 282, North End Road, Fulham, S.W., have a display of old garden furniture, hammered iron gates, lead vases, temples and the hke, some of whic 1 are liighly ornamental and beautiful. Messrs. Joseph Cheal and Sons, Crawley, have a formal garden in which a general garden scheme is adopted, shrub borders, rock- work and alpines. Rhododendron banks and Azalea borders, Rose temple, arches, pergolas, paved ways, stone walls, Yew and other hedges being among the eatures introduced. Messrs. Carter and Co., Raynes Park, S.W., have a particularly attractive garden, with Tudor summer - house in Horsecombe stone facing, stone dovecote, paved ways, dolphin fountain and basin, with Water Lilies, octagonal summer-house and other dis- tinct features. The Rhodo- dendron borders are a blaze of colour, the variety Pink Pearl making a iine sliow. The paved pathways, stone walls and roofs of the summer-houses are all suitably planted with Stonecrop, Houseleek and other plants. The Wistarias are very beau- tiful. The formal garden arranged by Messrs. Wallace and Co., Col- chester, is well conceived and admirably executed. The beau- tiful garden-house in Horsecombe stone, roofed with similar mate- rial, is delightful in its natural- ness, the Norman style leaving nothing to be desired. In its way it is unique. The whole arrangement is encompassed by low stone walls, Box and other hedges, while stone steps and paved ways are as natural as could be. Within the walls are borderings of Flag Irises, which in their quiet tones beneath the shade of In the pages that follow will be trees are delightful in the extreme. Tulip' borders are also a strong feature, while a well- kept lawn adds to the quiet and beauty of the whole. That arranged by Messrs. Pulham and Son»- 71, Newman Street, W., comprises a sunk garden) with imposing fountain basin, seats, sundials>- vases, pergola, balustrades, seats and the like- The " bird bath " is a feature here, and attracts' THE OPENING AT CHELSEA. OF THE SPRING SHOW grade found a review of all that is best in this really wonderful exhibition. In the pre- paration of this Special Number we have been greatly assisted by the officials of the society, especially the Rev. W. Wilks, Mr. S. T. Wright and Mr. Frank Reader, Without their assistance it would have been impossible to have published an illustrated report of the show in so short a time. largely. In addition, there are grey borders.-. 260 THE GARDEN. [May 23, 1914. ■• -■ -f SKETCH PLAN OF MESSRS. R. WALLACE AND CO.'S GARDEN HOUSE. with others of scented shrubs, Lavender, Rose- mary and the like. This exhibit is worthy of study. IMessrs. Piper, Bayswater and Barnes, have what they call a Wistaria garden, a circular arrangement, in which several flights of stone steps with their accompanying balustrades appear. The paved ways are lightly planted with vegetable life ; the coping of the balustrades bedecked with an ample display of old, well-flowered examples of Wistaria, which are charmingly flowered. The whole idea is original and good, only requiring time to give it the requisite tone. The Yokohama Nursery Company, Limited (Yokohama, London and New York), Craven House, Kingsway, have near the Lime Avenue a very pretty arrangement, into which all things Japanese enter — Japanese tea house, temple garden and temple lanterns, dwarfed trees, Wistarias and the like. The latter are very beautiful, well flowered and highly decorative. ROCK GARDENS. With the great International Show of a couple of years ago still fresh in the mind, it might savour of the absurd to say that rock gardening has never been seen in such excellence as that now on view at the Chelsea Hospital Grounds. At the same time it may be said with truth that on no former occasion has greater general excel- lence prevailed, or that better taste or skill has been displayed in its execution. In a word while the rock gardening star is obviously in the ascendant, there are also signs — the outcome of knowledge born of experience — of more studious and thoughtful work, and that phase of it in particular which, rendering such exhibits sugges- tive as a whole, also make repetitions of them possible in many gardens to-day. To have achieved so much is the highest aim of any exhi- bition ; to bring to a high state of perfection is to excel. That, indeed, is the position of rock gardening to-day, and the two or three dozen exhibitors who have ranged their skill and dis- played their taste side by side near the Embank- ment merit all praise. Taking them in order of position, we first come upon a well-executed piece of work of 1,000 square feet or so arranged by Messrs. Waterer, Sons and Crisp, Bagshot and Twyford. Here prettily colonised and grouped we find many good things, more particularly the rare Phlox Douglasii, Arenarla juniperina, white Thymus subcitratus parviflora, Campanula Allionii with rich purple bells, Pentstemon Bridgesii, Lewisia oppositifolia, Mazus reptans (a true carpeter covered with flowers not more than an inch high), many choice Primulas, alpine Phloxes and the like. The whole is executed in the Derbyshire limestone, and rendered pleasing and effective. In the adjoining group from Messrs. Garnet and Co., Farley, near Leeds, the showier kinds prevail, masses of Phloxes, Aubrietias and the like, with Ourisia coccinea, Oxalis enneaphylla. Primula frondosa and others. Bakers, Wolverhampton, are responsible for a well-conceived arrangement in which the larger rock groups are finely displayed. Some excellent crevice planting is also noted in this exhibit, with the dainty-leaved Japanese Maples playing a good part. The finer groups of things, and these rich in effect, are composed of Incarvillea brevipes, Tiarella unifuliata, Achillea rupestris. Saxifrages Codsall Cream and Miss Willmott, Cheiranthus Allionii, C. Warley Bronze (quite a distinct plant), Lithospermum intermedium and Daphne Cneorum. That arranged by Messrs. Whitelegg and Page, Chislehurst, is particularly good and effective as well as spacious, a charmingly arranged miniature ravine constituting a great attraction. The sides of this will be found teeming with Ramondias, and higher up on rocky ledges the Edelweiss with Oxalis enneaphylla. In freer masses else- where will be found Phloxes, Saxifraga longifolia latifolia, Primula Unique Yarm variety, P. cockbumiana, P. Unique Improved and P. cortusa villosa. Viola J. S. Martin (V. gracilis x V. bosniaca) is presenting a rich array of purple colour ; while above all and in the wood beyond Irises and other plants are to be seen naturalised. Messrs. T. S. Ware, Limited, Feltham, have done much excellent work mth their allotted 600 square feet, and employ the Surrey sand- stone to good effect. Their finer colour masses are made up of Aquilegia glandulosa (blue), Potentilla pyrenaica (rich golden), Tiarella cordi- folia (cream), Viola pedata bicolor, Ramondias and Lithospermum Heavenly Blue. .Among choice things will be noted Astilbe simplicifolia, Androsace primuloides, Haberleas and Lewisia Cotyledon, which is very charming. There will also be noticed a capital lot of hardy Cypripediums associated with Ferns in a cool and sheltered place. Altogether a highly attractive exhibit. Mr. Maurice Prichard, Christchurch, has a well arranged rock, using Cheddar stone, ot which there are many excellent specimens. Associated with this, the choice plants employed appear'/'delightful in the extreme. Some of those to be sought out include Heeria elegans (of which there is a fine rosy mass), Silene pusilla (white, very dwarf), Arenaria verna plena, Oxalis ennea- phj'lla rosea, Scutellaria indica japonica (blue), Gentiana verna, a fine lot of Primula Lissadell Hybrid, the rare fringed flowers of Schizocodon soldanelloides, Saxifraga cajsia pracox (a large- flowered early form), witli choice masses of Mimulus radicans, Asperula athoea and the like. Cypri- pediums and dwarf Ferns are charmingly associated. Adjoining this, Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, W.C, have a capital piece of work, using the Cheddar limestone with good effect. At the moment of our inspection the brightest-coloured mass was seen in a grouping of Oxalis brasiliensis, while among other notable things the Peacock Iris (so-called), I. cristata, I. gracillipes, the rare Calochortus on sunny slopes, Viola pedata, Cheiranthus Allionii, C. mutabilis and Heli- chrysum bellidioides are all worth seeking. Dodecatheons, Sarracenias, Cypripediums, Primu- las, Orchises and other suitable subjects associated with water are also pleasingly grouped. On a bolder scale, by reason of employing larger rock masses and ascending to greater heights, Messrs. Pulham and Son, Broxbourne and Elsenham, have a pii turesque piece of work in Derbyshire limeslone, the interspersing paths paved with York stone slabs in irregular rect- angular and crazy mosaic form. .A bold waterfall May 23, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 261 and streamlet are also effectively executed with suitable groupings of Ferns, Ceanothus, Epi- mediums, Gunnera, Leiophyllum buxifolium, Meconopsis and iiowery masses of Daphne Cneorum. Messrs. Wallace and Co., Colchester, have one of the largest stations and have arranged a highly meritorious exhibit, the design, as also the fine selected stone, attracting immediate attention. The plants here are almost bewildering in their variety by reason of the way that every crack, cranny or crevice is charged with its quota of alpine vegetation. Perched high will be found the Edelweiss, or jutting out from some rocky crevice such things as Saxifraga cochlearis, S, Aizoon or S. cochlearis minor. In freer groupings will be found Onosmas, Viola pedata. Campanula Stevenii nana, Saxifraga Dr. Ramsay, S. Cotyledon and the like. Then the spreading tufts of Heli- chrysum bellidioides, Lithospermum, and Saxifraga Aizoon lutea are worth seeking, while, anon, trails of the royal purple bells of Edraianthus serpylli- folium major will be found or tufts of Iris gracillipes. To make the exhibit comprehensive and complete, a pretty water-course has been formed with Primulas and Ferns in cool and shade. The association of shrub and rock is very good and quite worth noting. On the opposite side of the Drive the Misses Hopkins, Shepperton-on-Thames, have a compact, prettily arranged exhibit of rock and alpine plants. Here will be found the alpine Phloxes, Houstonias, Primula sikkimensis, Lithospermum Heavenly Blue, many choice Saxifrages, the rich blue of the alpine Columbine, Veronicas and other good things. The Guildford Hardy Plant Nursery has an excellent exhibit of rockwork, employing the Godalming sandstone with good eiiect. The stone is well fashioned and suited for the purpose, and, moreover, like all other sandstones, is sympathetic to plant-life. The firm is using many choice plants, some of the more conspicuous being Semper- vivum rubricundum, Cheiranthus mutabilis pur- pureus, Erpetion reniforme, Viola cucullata (very fine), Linum capitatum (yellow), Dianthus arvemensis (a very choice alpine Pink), and the like. Showier things, as Geum rivale Leonard's variety. Phlox Laphami and Heucheras, are good, though the visitor must not omit Onosmas, Oxalis enneaphylla, Parochetus communis, and the charming effect which Sempervivum Laggeri rubrum is producing. Mr. Clarence Elliott, Stevenage, has a nicely executed piece of work near the entrance, using in plenty the freer-flowering masses of things, while garnishing crack and cranny in all directions with the choicer morsels. Of those which cannot fail to appeal are Helianthus rosmarinifolius (white), Oxalis enneaphylla rosea, a fine mass of Iris cristata, Pentstemon Davisonii, P. Roezli, the pretty red-flowered Dianthus squarrosa and Daphne Cneorum. Shrubs and dwarf conifers are well placed amid finely selected Cheddar limestone. Messrs. Kent and Brydon, Darlington, are employing Westmorland limestone with good effect, and associating with it Primula buUeyana, Wahlenbergia serpyllifolia, Campanula AUionii, Ledum palustris, Trilliums in splendid form. Anemone sylvestris, Lithospermum graminifolium and others. A miniature alpine meadow and bog garden are also features to be noted. Mr. G. Reuthe, Kestou, Kent, has also arranged a very delightful exhibit, delightful in the sense of choice and rare, that ever appeals to the specialist. Haberlea Ferdinandii - Coburgii is here. It is finer and better than the old form. Diplopappus pedunculatus with violet flowers is rare and good ; Leontopodium lindarvianum is a new species of Edelweiss, ^Ethropappus pulcher- rimus is a new alpine Thistle, while such as Cypri- pediums in variety, Mertensia primuloides, Linum alpinum (blue). Gentians, Silene Hookeri, Sisy- rinchium bermudianum (fine blue mass) and Primula Unique Yarm variety will all be found in excellent condition. Polygonum sphaerostachyum is in capital colour. Very choice and good is the rockwork exhibit set up by Messrs. Tucker and Sons, Oxford, the firm employing the limestone of their own locality, which is both ornamental and good. This exhibit teems with choice things, and much time might be spent among them. Quite among the best are Daphne alpina, Tanaksa radicans, Dianthus callizonus, Eryngium glaciale, the true Saxifraga valdensis (which is also in flower). Phlox Douglasii, Pratia Arenaria, Silene Hookeri, S. Veselesky (a choice morsel in white). Campanula Allionii, Daphne rupestris. Origanum Dictamnus, with Sempervivum rubricundum, S. arachnoideum rubrum and S. a. Laggeri, are all worth seeking out. The excellent exhibit arranged by Mr. J. Wood, Boston Spa, Yorkshire, represents as a whole a bit of Yorkshire fell land, the stone grey York- shire mountain limestone supporting its own mnss and such British wildings as Thymus Serpj'llum, Sedum anglicum and the like. These are augmented by the choicer alpine plants. Snap- dragons, Forget-me-nots, Poteniillas, Himalayan Poppies, Primulas, Saxifrages, Phloxes and other plants galore. The foreground of the arrange- ments in effect represents an alpine meadow, in which the choicest alpine plants. Primulas, Orchises and others are seen. Then, in the characteristic drift-like form in which this rock appears in Nature, we see Nature adorned, improved, as it were, by the master's art. Crevice and cranny and fissure ctrc freely planted with Ramondias, Haberlea, and Pyrenean Rockfoil (Saxifraga longifolia), whose great, hoary rosettes are very telling. In the driest places, Semper- vivum tomentosum looks at its best, a great stretch of Saxifraga Aizoon rosea representing this plant finely. The pretty American Pine Barren (Pyxidanthera barbulata), spangled with white flowers, is very charming. Anon, a Fern- planted gully is very cool-looking, while in plenty appear the choicest Primulas, with rivulet and tiny pond, while high above all, suggestive of distance, towered, as it were, the dwarfer Pines, mirroring into life a very beautiful whole. Another fine rock garden exhibit in the open is that of Messrs. Piper, Bayswater and Barnes, in which some thirty tons of selected Cheddar stone are employed. The general arrangement is that of raised mounds, with bays, ravines, and outcrop rock from turfy banks appearing in excellent fashion, the latter throwing into fuller relief the grey colour of the adjacent rocks. In every way it is an excellent piece of work. The general plant- ing idea is that of free drifts, the natural bent of the rocks being duly considered. In this way such things as Ramondias, the great silvery Pyrenean Rockfoil, Daphne Cneorum, Fabiana imbricata, Erinus, Stachys Corsica, Phlox Lap], ami, Viola Golden Wave, Saxifraga Aizoon rosea, Pratia Arenaria and Scutellaria indica japonica are seen. Of shrubs, Cotoneaster congesta, with Pinus Cembra above, are noticeable. Under canvas there is also to be found many choice contributions to the alpine section. Here will be found Messrs. Bees, Limited, Liverpool, who are staging many choice plants of recent introduction. Of these Roscoea cautloides, Primula secundiflora, Oxalis adenophylla. Primula augustidens, P. japonica Gamett Bee, Potentilla fruticosa nana argentea, Lewisia Howellii and, perhaps rarest of all, Didissandria amabile, a new Chinese alpine, with erect bell-shaped, creamy flowers on a short inflorescence above woolly Ourisia-like leaves. It is a remarkably pretty plant. VIEW IN MESSRS. J. CARTER AND CO.'S FORMAL GARDEN. 262 THE GARDEN. [May 23. 1914. ROCK GARDEN EXHIBITED BY MESSRS. R. WALLACE AND CO. Messrs. Backhouse and Sons, York, have a table exhibit of alpines with rockwork in miniatiire. Here will be fovind not a few of the choicer plants — Orchis foliosa, Trilliums, Primula secundiflora, Iris cristata, Ramondias, Gentiana vema, Ledums buxifolium and polifolium, Onosmas, Dendromecon rigidum, Edraianthus serpyllifolium major, Viola bosiuaca, Oxalis enneaphylla and other good plants. The exhibit is very daintily arranged. The Lissadell Primulas from Sligo are very good, and choice hybrids and improvements abound. This is a very bright-looking lot. In another direction Sir Everard Hambro, K.C.V.O., Hayes Place, Kent, has a fine setting of choice alpines amid plumes of the bolder Saxifrages, S. Cotyledon and S. longifolia forms more particularly. The white, faintly spotted plumes of these rise in their dozens, while con- stituting the groundwork are some of the choicest morsels of alpine vegetation ; for example, Erinacea pungens, the finest example we have seen, full of dainty mauve Pea-shaped flowers on a tiny bush 6 inches high. It is a gem. Dianthus alpinus, D. subacaulis. Primula Unique, Lewasia Howellii, Phyteuma comosum, Jankea Heldreichii, Haberleas, the brilliant red-flowered Pentstemon Davisonii, Heeria elegans, Silene Hookeri and Oxalis enneaphylla rosea are some to be searched for. Mr. H. Hemsley, Crawley, has a miscellaneous lot of alpines and a new race of alpine Snap- dragons. The Ightham Alpine Plant Nursery is staging Violetta Slieve Donna, a charming alpine, in which the firm are specialisers. ROSES. The Chelsea Show without Roses would be shorn of much of its splendour, and although, generally speaking, we have seen finer individual blooms, yet one must admit that there are some very meritorious groups. Each recurring year accen- tuates our indebtedness to the Rambler and Polyantha sections for spectacular effect, and the grand pot-gro\vn specimens show us what can be done with such Roses when suitably planted outdoors. There is this much about the Chelsea Show : one is not painfully reminded of cramped space as was the case at the Temple, and exhibitors take full advantage of the improved conditions to display their productions to the best advantage. One or two glaring examples of clashing groups are evident, especially the placing of a huge mass of Zonal Pelargoniums between the two fine groups of Roses put up by Messrs. W. Paul and Son and Messrs. Hobbies, the glare of the Pelargoniums absolutely marring the beautiful effect of the Roses. From a decorative point of view, nothing is better done than the group of Messrs. W. Cutbush and Sons, Highgate. This consists entirely of Rambler and Polyantha Roses. A splendid central column of Dorothy Perkins has a ground- work of the gorgeous Polyantha Ema Teschendorff. Then there are mounds of Polyanthas of such sorts as Jeanne d'Arc, Maman Turbat, Jessie. Mrs. Cutbush, Orleans, and Ellen Poulsen, with a contrasting and well-flowered weeping Rose emerging from the mound. As a groimdwork for the group there are some hundreds of plants of the dainty Baby Tausendschon, whose correct name is Louise Walter. We also noticed a good yellow Polyantha in George Elgar. Messrs. W. Paul and Son, as usual, make a grand display. Their Ramblers are excellently flowered. In this group are some fine plants of Sodenia, a very valuable new Rambler, a few shades deeper than Lady Gay. Kalmia is also a pretty novelty, of a colour resembhng the shrub whose name it bears. The new White Tausendschon is fine, also Ethel, a very dainty shade of pink. Millicent, a new Rambler, is a large double flower, but of rather a dull, uninteresting colour. Probably outdoors this dulness would disappear ; if so, it wiU be a good addition. Of the large- flowered Hybrid Teas, Mrs. Charles Hunter is fine, also Portia, Opheba, J. L. Mock, Mrs. A. Hammond, Margaret, Farbenkonigin, Simburst (fine blooms, but very pale colour), Mrs. W. Christie MiUer, Entente Cordiale and Souv. de Gustave Prat. Messrs. George Paul and Son, Cheshunt, have put up a splendid group, but we have seen them show much better. One must not lose sight of the fact that the weather this spring has been excep- tionally trying for pot Roses. Fine pillars of American Pillar, Hiawatha, Lady Godiva and White Dorothy are in this group, with splendid weepers such as Minnehaha, Eisenach, Hiawatha, and Lady Blanche, a very pure white. Standards of King George V., Leslie HoUand, Niphetos, and Mme. J. Dupuy are tastefully set among masses of the best Hybrid Teas. Among these we noted a fine batch of Freda (a grand pot Rose, with fine deep flowers), Florence Pemberton, Magnolia (wonderfully long buds). Lady A. Stanley, Cherry Ripe, Othello (a grand colour), Mrs. A. R. Waddell, Lady Q. Ewart, Sunburst V THE ROCK GARDEN SHOWN BY MESSRS. PULHAM AND SONS. May 2j, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 263 (bere also very pale), Comte G. de Rochmauer (a fine new red), Rayon d'Or, Lady Pirrie, Rene Wilmart Urban, G. Grunerwald, G. C. Waud, Queen of Spain and many others. Mr. George Prince, Longworth, has made a brave display with some excellent Ramblers, well flowered and o£ elegant shape. We noticed among the great variety of Ramblers a fine new sort named Chatillon, a Rose larger than Dorothy Perkins, and a most e.^iquisite shade of light pink. Among the choice collection of cut blooms to be seen are some of the beautiful Mrae. Edouard Herriot, a Rose whose wonderful colouring is sure to make it a popular favourite. Messrs. G. Mount and Sons, Canterbury, are making a most sumptuous show — one of the best in the whole exhibition. A splendid background of Crimson Ramblers, such as Excelsa and Hiawatha, lend a very rich glow to the group, and this gives a fine array of colour and serves to bring out the snowy purity of the lovely Frau Karl Druschki, grown as the firm only can grow it under glass . Delightful masses of Sunburst, Richmond, Mrs. John Laing, Mrs. Sharman Crawford and the superb Mrs. George Shawyer are here seen in large quantities of really exhibition blooms. Other popular sorts well represented are Lady Pirrie, Melanie Soupert, Mrs. F. Straker, Lady Battersea, Mrs. Charles Hunter, Joseph Lowe, Liberty, and Mrs. A. R. Waddell, the whole edged by well-flowered dwarf pot plants of the Perpetual Crimson Rambler. Messrs. Low and Co., Enfield, have a group of Roses with other subjects. The Roses are lightly arranged and are beautifully relieved with Acer Negundo variegata and variegated Euonymus. Some fine specimens of Excelsa, Dorothy Perkins, Blush Rambler and Tausendschon are exhibited as pillars, wliile well-flowered weepers of Hiawatha and Newport Fairy portray these fine sorts to perfection. A very tastefully arranged group comes from Mr. Charles Turner, Slough. There are grand weepers of Dorothy Perkins, Lady Godiva, White Dorothy, Lady Gay and Ethel (a very lovely new rambler all should plant), and there are also fine groups of Orleans Rose, Annie Miiller, Jessie and Mrs. Cutbush, besides standard Teas and Hybrid Teas, the whole well toned down by Japanese Maples and Ferns. In the superb group of flower- ing shrubs we noted a fine specimen of Rosa Hugonis, doubtless grown outdoors, for it is now blossoming outside with us. Strangely, among all the rock garden exhibits we did not see any Roses represented. Surely this was an omission, for there are some lovely gems, such as R. Malyi, now opening outdoors that make beautiful rock subjects. Messrs. Hobbies, Limited, Dereham, put up two groups in their own inimitable style, with arched walks well clothed with Ramblers, and huge baskets of Polyantha Roses, many of them of the firm's own raising. Among these we saw Baby Elegance (a dear little Rose that will be largely wanted), Meadowsweet and Dewdrop, all being interesting additions to this popular class. Cut blooms of the leading Roses are tastefully arranged on stems, and these include the wonderful Mme. E. Herriot (of grand colouring). Countess of Shaftesbury, Willow- mere, Sunburst, Lady Hillingdon, Mrs. A. Ward, Melanie Soupert, and Marquise de Sinety, alto- gether a delightful group. We must not forget to mention Efiective, one of the most fragrant Roses, and a variety of better colour when grown outdoors. Messrs. Burch, Peterborough, have a nice little lot, chiefly in show boxes, representing most of the leading varieties. Messrs. Frank Cant and Co., Braiswick Nursery, Colchester, have one of the best arranged groups among the cut-flower exhibits. There is a delightful airiness in the whole display that cannot fail to charm visitors, and they should see this group before it fades. A beautiful new Rambler is Braiswick Charm, an almost perpetual variety, reminding one of Alberic Barbier, but the flowers are produced in larger clusters. It is also very sweet. Hercules is a most sweetly fragrant Hybrid Tea of merit, and of a lovely peach pink- shade, and very double with cupped form. The Ramblers and short standard Roses are grand, the latter being of the variety Jessie, perhaps the best to grow in this form. The cut blooms are of special quality, some quite medal blooms, and of the best we noted Mrs. Walter Easlea (a fine, big flower, of deUcious fragrance), George Dickson (grand), Mrs. Muir McKean, Mrs. A. Coxhead, Melody, Mrs. J. Welch, Lady Roberts, Juliet, &c., so freely, it will be possible for every grower to have new sorts, but unless hybridised it is doubtful if we shall obtain anything superior to those now grown, although there is always a chance of getting a good thing. Messrs. R. J. Barnes and Son, Malvern, are showing American Pillar very finely, also Rayon d'Or as cut blooms. These are very good. Messrs. A. Dickson and Sons, Newtownards, have some of their superb novelties. What a beauty is Chrissie McKellar, a glorious garden Rose of most enchanting tints ! Red Letter Day is a grand mass of colour, and Killarney Brilliant splendid. One bloom of Mrs. Bryce Allan portrays a real gem, and for fragrance we know of nothing equal to it. A beautiful seedling reminds us of Marquise de Sinety and Sunburst, and will be warmly welcomed when sent out. Lady Dunleath, Carine, Irish Fireflame and Mrs. S. T. Wright are also grandly exhibited. Messrs. B. R. Cant and Sons have a most delight- ful array, and one could almost imagine one were at the National Rose Show in July, so sumptuju ■ 1 '' ?*''"J§?^%^itW^^' r .i-.rii''''*^«'^-' M^0^. : . ?^--'-ti- ■ " '"Vi^iKi STRATIFIED LIMESTONE TASTEFULLY ARRANGED BY MESSRS. WHITELEGG AND PAGE. while such lovely singles as Rosa sinica Anemone, Austrian Copper and Austrian Yellow are well represented. Mr. E. J. Hicks, Twyford, has a very lovely group, in which we noted Mrs. E. Alford, a glorified Mme. Abel Chatenay. If this Rose grows well outdoors it may supersede that grand old Rose, but it will have to be of superior habit to do this. Lady Hillingdon, Mrs. G. Shawyer and Richmond are also fine, weU set ofi by masses of Erna Teschendorff, Mme. E. Herriot and Orleans Rose. Messrs. H. B. May and Sons, Edmonton, have Roses represented among their other subjects, these chiefly of the Rambler and Polyantha sections. A new Polyantha is shown by Messrs. Munch and Haage. It is named Betsy Van Nes, and is said to be a red Mrs. W. H. Cutbush, and may probably supersede Jessie outside, although as shown we did not think much of it. Mr. J. Crouch, Lower Edmonton, exhibited several seedling Polyanthas, but none of them superior to existing lands. As these Roses seed is the variety and superb the quality. The ramblers are splendidly flowered, and among these Goldfinch, American Pillar, Lady Godiva and Silver Moon are grand. Fine masses of Lady Reay, Mme. Edouard Herriot, Mme. A. Chatenay, Mrs. H. Stevens, Lady Hillingdon, Elizabeth, Molly Sharman Crawford, Austrian Copper, Duchess of Wellington, Claudius, St. Helena, &c., are also shown. STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, excel on this occasion, staging a particularly handsome and attractive exhibit in the centre of the Large Tent. This exhibit consists of five large beds — four corner ones and a circular bed in the centre! As a whole this display makes a complete garden in itself. Their excellent strain of Cinereiria stellata is one of the chief features, the colours and form of the flowers leaving nothing to be desired. The Schizanthuses are really superb, 264 THE GARDEN. [May 1914- the beautiful tones of colour represented in the Reading strain of these plants being charmingly varied and attractive. Primula obconica has never been better shown. The splendid quality of the plants and their beautiful and varied colours show how great has been their development. Of herbaceous Calceolarias, too much cannot well be said in praise of their beautiful condition great show and of the name of Messrs. James Carter and Co., who have done so much for these flowers. Groups 39, 40 and 43 in the Large Tent are represented by a series of beautiful plants from Messrs. Webb and Sons, Wordsley, Stourbridge. The plants are arranged in bold and striking form, rising to a height of about eight feet. GROUP OF ROSES SHOWN BY MESSRS. WILLIAM PAUL, WALTHAM CROSS. and their superb quality. Intermediate tones of colour are conspicuously good, and the plants are in the pink of condition. The centre bed is filled with Clarkias and an edging of Cineraria Reading Gem, the latter being a plant midway between the ordinary type and C. stellata. Stocks, Nicotianas, Phloxes and Alonsoas are also extremely well done, the plants representing strains of the highest excellence. A finish to this great exhibit of Ferns and other foliage plants makes one of the most attractive floral treats of the show. In another part of the Large Tent a beautiful group of Clarkias from this firm is a most commendable display. Another very wonderful display is made by Messrs. James Carter and Co. On entering the Large Tent from the Embankment entrance the visitor is face to face with a wonderfully comprehensive and beautiful series of groups of greenhouse flowers. The plants are in the pink of condition, each subject being represented by flowers of the best, the colours also being very good. A great circular bank of Cineraria stellata and Cactus varieties, surmounted by a beautiful Palm, is the central feature of this wonderful display, and this is surrounded by other circular moimds of Empress EUzabeth (rose pink) and White Queen (pure white) Ten- week Stocks, Gloxinias (Invincible Prize), Calceo- larias (Victoria Prize), Petimias (Queen of Roses, Purple Prince, Crimson King and White Pearl), Schizanthus (large-flowered Butterfly varieties), Clarkia elegans in exceptionally good form and remarkable for their very high colouring, large- flowered Cinerarias (Brilliant Prize), handsome Streptocarpuses and Nemesias (Orange Prince), which all combine to make an exhibit worthy of this Herein are displayed beautiful examples of their superb strains of large-flowered Cinerarias and well-grown, freely flowered examples of the steUata and Cactus forms of these free-flowering plants. Schizanthuses are also well done, their compact hybrid retusus and pinnatus forms all being most attractive. Exhibition Gloxinias are well repre- sented, and double-flowered Begonias are also in good form and condition. Not the least inter- esting are the representatives of Primula obconica and P. malacoides. Superb aptly describes the large-flowered herbaceous Calceolarias, the flowers being pleasingly varied. Hybrid Streptocarpuses, Nemesia strumosa and single Clarkias are a trio of beautiful plants deserving notice, and the choice seedling Amaryllis add a glorious piece of colouring to this fine exhibit. Petunias, both double and single flowered sorts, are attractive, as are the Ten-week Stocks. With Grevillea, robust Ferns and other foliage plants a pretty finish is given to this magnificent display. Mr. Philip Ladds, Swanley Junction, Kent, displays a bright and highly attractive group of Zonal Pelargoniums, Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, Heliotropes, show and fancy Pelar- goniums and magnificent Hydrangeas. Mme. Moullifere, the new large white variety, has never been seen in better form and condition, and Hortensis is also well shown to contrast with the new white sort above mentioned. With Maidenhair and other Ferns a beautiful is given to this large group, which is successfully set up in undulating fashion. Zonal Pelargoniums as set up by Messrs Jones' Nurseries, Limited, Ryecrott, Lewisham, S. E., are very fine. The large circular group, covering some 300 superficial feet, is filled with finish most H. J. well-grown plants carrying grand trusses of bloom in every tone of colour known in these plants. A few of the better sorts are Pandora (scarlet). Will (clear scarlet, very large pips), Fred Gulliver, Mrs. Tom White, Harry, Fred Bunstead, Kitty, H. J. Jones, Harry Wood, Mrs. Fred Huggett, Mrs. Gulliver, Edgar A. Tickle and a host of other good things, both double and single. The group is edged with Ferns and surmounted by a graceful Palm. Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea, fill a square with a series of five beds, with grass walks between. The central bed of circular form is filled with beautiful Azaleas. Here are to be seen grand plants smothered with delicate blossoms in many hues, all in the pink of condition. Mme. Keller, Empress of India, Professor Welters (grand), Mme. J. Vervaene, Charmer, Dr. Moore, Mme. Van den Cryssen, E. von Eeckhaute and Mme. Morreau, among many other good varieties, make a glorious display. Two comer beds are filled with well-grown Caladiums, well coloured and in grand form. Noteworthy examples are Le Resplendent, Lady Stafford Northcote, Prince of Wales, Mme. John Box, Triomphe de Comte, W. Rappard, Emperor Alexander III., The Mikado and many others. Stove and green- house plants proper fill the other two comer beds, and they comprise a wonderful assortment of beautiful plants. Alocasia mortefontainensis, Gymnogramma schizophylla, Maranta insignis, Coccoloba pubescens, Phyllottenium Lindenii, Dieffenbachia Jenmanii, Croton Reidii, Alocasia argyrea, Sansevieria Laurentia, Dracaena goldieana, Ananassa sativa variegata, Cannas, Anthuriums and a wonderful array of most beautiful subjects make this exhibit one of the features of this great show. AmaryUis from Messrs. Ker and Sons, Aigbinth Nmrsery, Liverpool, make an effective exhibit. The flowers are large and beautifully fresh, and comprise a large and varied assortment of colours. A few sorts worthy of special mention are Sappho, Pink Gem, Fascination, Endymion, Crimson King, Orange Perfection and alba magna. Interspersed with moss and Ferns the effect is pleasing. Mr. J. J. Ward, Rocklands, Finchley, N., has a table group of herbaceous Calceolarias, the plants of which would have been in better con- dition a week or ten days hence. Some of the plants are in condition, and represent a good strain. Magnificent Schizanthuses from Mr. Ernest G. Mocatta, Wobiun Place, Addlestone, Surrey (gardener, Mr. Thomas Stevenson), are remarkable for their good quality. The plants are densely flowered, the quality of the blossoms of a very- high order, and their colours are charmingly diversified. We have never seen better, and they are just at their best. There are thirty- eight plants in all, and a finish was given to this highly meritorious group with well-grown Hydran- geas and Maidenhair Ferns. The plants are described as Schizanthus wisetonensis Excelsior strain. Hydrangea hortensis in beautiful variety is shown by Mr. Leopold Salomons, Norbury Park, Dorking. This is a very fine exliibit. The plants are at their best, and the colouring is superb. This table group is neatly finished with Ferns and Panicum varicgatum. Zonal Pelargoniums, both double and single flowered sorts, are shown by Messrs. Jamian and Co., Chard. This firm also stages the new Cen- taureas, Viola comuta in variety and other subjects. Handsome bunches of Zonal Pelargoniums are exhibited by Mr. Vincent Slade, Taunton.f About May 23, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 265 three dozen bunches are shown, embracing quite a number of the better sorts. Dublin, Vesta, Lady Wilson Todd and Naples are striking varieties. A new Fern, Adiantum gloriosum Lemkesii, is shown by Messrs. Lemkes and Son, Alplien, Holland. This is a very beautiful plant, and is worthy of a place in all collections of stove and greenhouse plants. A splendid group of Streptocarpus hybrids is put up by Mr. Henry B. Brandt, Capernor, Nuffield, Surrey (gardener, Mr. H. Cook). The flowers are large and their colours pleasingly diverse, and the group as a whole is much admired. A pretty table group of show and fancy Pelar- goniums is exhibited by Mr. A. P. Brandt, Bletch- ingley Castle, Surrey (gardener, Mr. J. W. Barks). This is a very pretty group. The plants are profusely flowered, and the quality of the flowers is superb. A splendid table group of large dimensions is staged by Messrs. John Peed and Son, West Norwood, London, S.E. This comprises Strepto- carpuses in wonderfully pleasing variations of colour, and a capital lot of Begonias, also very varied in their colours and marking. The latter are especially noteworthy. Calceolarias, herbaceous and otherwise, are well shown by Mr. A. H. Cole, Swanley, Kent. This is a very charming feature, and the strain a good one. A few fancy Pelargoniums are also shown by this grower. A grand bank of herbaceous Calceolarias is exhibited by the Rev. H. Buckston, Derby (gardener, Mr. Shambrook). The plants are large, well-grown specimens, and are some of the very best in the whole show. Good culture is largely in evidence. In the Long Tent, Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea, have two table-end groups of Ferns, Fuchsias, Spiraeas, Primulas in variety and a number of other useful plants, all of which are most interesting. The Fuchsias are trained in cordon form and are in splendid form and condition. Messrs. H. Cannell and Sons, Eynsford, Kent, have an excellent exhibit of large and handsome bunches of Zonal Pelargoniums and a number of small plants of the better fancy Pelargoniums. The Zonals are very striking, Lucania, Frogmore, Arabic, King Victor, Queenswood, Lady Roscoe, Princess of Wales and Mars being some of the more noteworthy singles. From the John limes Horticultural Institution came a pretty table group of Calceolaria hybrids. To those anxious to improve these flowers there is much food for reflection to be found here. Messrs. W. Cutbush and Son, Highgate and High Barnet, N., have a wonderfully interesting group, comprising miscellaneous plants. The arrangement of the different subjects leaves nothing to be desired — Hydrangeas, Rhododen- drons, hardy Azaleas and Cytisus in variety, Spirffia and Coleus James Attfield (very note- worthy). There is much for all who are interested in these plants to profit by in this very charming group. A grand lot of Hippeastrums (Veitch's hybrids) make a striking table group as set up by Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea. They are a very fine lot, and are graded in colours. The quality is superb, colour, size and general condition impressing visitors in a very marked degree. From the same firm Calceolaria Clibranii and Begonia Rex in beautiful variety make a somewhat unique exhibit. The Calceolarias are freely flowered, and are most striking. The Rex Begonias are novel and fascinating in a measure. The better sorts are Morning Rise, Our Beauty, Frau G. Benary, His Majesty, Rostoff, New Beauty, The Queen, Rex Rubrum, La France, Mrs. F. Sander, Ernst Benary, Master- piece and the extremely beautiful Countess of TheUusson. Two very large triangular groups in the Large Tent serve to display the mollis and Ghent Azaleas. This firm's exhibits are always a splendid feature of this great show, and this year they seem to have eclipsed all previous efforts. In the moUis section the plants are gloriously fine. The rich and beautiful colouring and the fragrance of this subject are most attrac- trees, Ferns, and a variety of other subjects which combine to make a truly remarkable exhibit. An extremely handsome group of Schizanthus is exhibited at tlie Embankment entrance to the Large Tent by Mr. Alfred J. Waley, Stone House, Reigate, Surrey (gardener, Mr. W. A. Dobson). Seldom have such remarkable specimens been seen, and the grower of tliis wonderful collection of plants deserves great praise. The plants are large, very freely flowered and the colours superb. Mr. William Iceton, Putney, S.W., exhibits a splendid circular group of Lily of the Valley of a very improved form. This is superbly fine, and a source of great joy to many. Edged with A CORNER OF MESSRS. SUTTON AND SONS EXHIBIT, SHOWING FINE PLANTS OF PRIMULA OBCONICA. five. The better sorts are Flambeau, Mme. Mayer, Comte de Quincey, J. C. van Thol, Imperial, Leon Vignes, Alphouse LavaUee and a host of other good things. The Ghent Azaleas in the second group are quite fascinating, and it is a good thing to have the two sections divided as they were on this occasion. The better sorts are coccinea speciosa, Fanny (single), Pucella (single), Daviesii, Pallas, Guelder Rose and occidentalis. A charming circular group of the lovely Schizan- thus is exhibited by Mrs. V. A. Litkie. Clarefield, Pinkneys Green, Maidenhead (gardener, Mr. W. Hulbert). These are very large plants, flowering in the greatest profusion, in wonderful variety and in beautiful colourings. There are many truly grand things in this group, and the grower deserves much credit for his display. Show, fancy and scented-leaved Pelargoniums are nicely shown by Messrs. Godfrey and Son, Exmouth, Devon. Interspersed mth Ferns, the effect is quite pretty, and the varieties of the Pelargoniums of the best. In a wonderfully comprehensive group round the Obelisk, Messrs. John Piper and Sons, Barnes, Surrey, exhibit a wonderful array of different subjects. Azaleas Hinodegeri and the Silver Acers cover the Obelisk, and roimd about are Hydrangeas, Primula obconica, pygmy Japanese Maidenhair Ferns and Dracaena Sanderae, the effect is very pleasing. A pretty group of Caladiums is sho^vn by Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond. The plants are arranged in rather flat fashion and not so large as some others, but they are very fresh, clean and nicely coloured. Indian Azaleas are shown by Mr. Charles Turner, Slough, in numerous plants trained in pyramidal form. They are an attractive lot, and take us back to the time when specimen Azaleas used to be shown at the Ghent flower exhibitions. This is a welcome featiure of this great show. Sarraceni are set up in natural fashion m a very attractive gxoup by Mr. A. J. A. Bruce, Chorlton-cum-Hardy, Mancliester. Pools and a mossy groundwork and rockwork to match make these plants at their best. With Bamboos and Grasses in association, we regard this exhibit as one of this firm's best efforts. A miscellaneous group, comprising a variety of subjects, is set up by Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Enfield. The Bottle Brush Tree (Metrosideros floribunda). Azalea rosseflora. Hydrangea hortensis, Ceanothus Veitchii, Gerberas and the new Araucaria, Silver Queen, are a few of the noteworthy subjects in this display.' 266 THE GARDEN. [May 23, 1914 A mixed group of a very commendable Idnd is staged by Messrs. H. B. May and Sons, Upper Edmonton. Heliotropes, Verbenas, Zonal Pelargoniums, Weeping Roses, Salvias, Lobelias, Fuchsias and numerous other plants all combine to make a beautiful exhibit. A bold and massive-looking group of Caladiums comes from Messrs. John Peed and Son, West Norwood, S.E. The plants are well grown, but should have been raised somewhat from the ground- work of Ferns, &c. Some of the better plants are Mme. J. Box, Trioraphe de Comte, Excellent, C. E. Dahle, George Cover and a wonderful series of plants with telling foliage. Part of a large group set up by Mr. James Horlick, West Dean Park, Chichester (gardener, Mr. W. H. Smith), comprises a wonderful display of 5'eUow Callas in the pink of condition. The species is Calla Pentlandii, and we doubt whether a finer lot of these plants has ever been seen. Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, W.C, make a fine exhibit of Japanese pygmy trees. There is a very charming assortment, the ages Andrew Tweedie (cream), Countess of Dartmouth (cream, edged and fiaked rose), Hon. Mrs. Ronald Greville (cream) and Hon. Mrs. Maurice Glyn (apricot). Messrs. Blackmore and Langdon, Twerton-on- Avon, Bath, set up an inimitable group of tuberous- rooted Begonias in quality of the most superb description. Seldom is the British public treated to such a wonderful representation of these beautiful flowers. Without a single exception the blooms are of the highest quality, and represent the last word in these gorgeous flowers. Note- worthy sorts are Princess Victoria (salmon pink), Lord Methuen (bright scarlet), Rose Superbe (pale rose). Lady Carew (deep rose), Violet Langdon (flesh pink), Irene Gambling (orange). Lady Cromer, Mrs. James Reid (lovely pink). Empress Marie (white) and Mrs. James Douglas (yellow). These are just a few of the wonderful things in this group, and gives this firm the high position they have won with these plants. A charming bank of tuberous Begonias, rising to a considerable height at the back, is staged W^^ ■^^'' ^. SOME OF THE BEGONIAS SHOWN BY MESSRS. BLACKMORE AND LANGDON. rDf the trees ranging up to 200 years old. Most of Che trees are in excellent form and condition, show- ing evidence of considerable care and attention. BEGONIAS. Messrs. Thomas Ware and Co., Feltham, Middlesex, have a grand table group of their magnificent tuberous-rooted Begonias, in which large and handsome double-flowered varieties predominate. Marvellous advance must be chronicled with these gorgeous flowers, form and coloiuring now being all that the connoisseur could well desire. The plants are in excellent condition for so early in the year, flowering freely and carrying superb examples of cultural skill. Among the more noteworthy additions this season are King George V., a very large and handsome flower of good form and rich salmon colour ; and Duchess of Marlborough, a lovely rich salmon pink of high quality. Other good things worthy of special notice are Gladys Valentine (pale salmon), Mrs. Maiurice Pope (salmon rose), Mrs. by Mr. A. LI. Gwillim, Sidcup, Kent. These are all double-flowered sorts and represent many of the better-known varieties. Lady Cromer, Mrs. J. C. Gwillim, Miss Ada Britten, Sidcup Beauty and Mrs. H. Harris are especially note- worth v sorts. SWEET PEAS. It is but a few years since Sweet Peas first made their appearance at the Royal Horticultural Society's spring shows, and while the quality was not actually impressive, the flowers, never- theless, caused a mild commotion. Nowadays, however, we not only look for Sweet Peas in May, but we expect quality equal to the best that the month of July will produce, and, what is more, we get it. The advance in the art of Sweet Pea growing under glass is little short of miraculous, and those who are familiar with the blooms pro- duced in this " country and the United States, the home of Sweet Pea forcing, assure us that the home growers more than hold their own, although they may not be able to produce flowers at so early a date. As is well known, some acres of glass are devoted to Sweet Peas for market purposes, and from about mid-.April one sees blooms of varying quality in the florists' shops. The various Sweet Pea specialists likewise devote a considerable amount of glass to this crop, and in doing so they benefit materially by being enabled to exhibit long before the natural period of bloom- ing, while they also are able to ensure a more or less good crop of seed of the more valuable varieties. Messrs. Dobbie and Co. of Edinburgh were among the first to realise the importance of indoor culture, and after several tests in the ordinary houses originally installed at Mark's Tey, the firm some three or four years ago erected special large, airy houses solely for Sweet Peas. To say that these houses have justified themselves is hardly sufiicient. Not only is the firm among the first to exhibit each season, but the quality is rarely matched and never surpassed. On this occa- sion the firm cover 150 square feet, the vases arranged in three tiers and backed by the well- known black velvet screen. It is impossible for us to attempt to enumerate anything like the whole of the varieties shown, so we must be content to mention the most new and notable. An out- standing novelty is Dobbie's Orange, a gorgeous orange salmon of great size. A veritable flame. Royal Purple is assuredly one of the great things for 1915, a giant purple self difierent to any- thing we have had before, even in the days of tlie old grandifloras. It may not be every- one's colour, but still it is a coming variety. Alfred Watkins is a peculiar greyish lavender of a very even shade. Frilled Pink, another novelty of great promise, impresses one by its intense friUiness, while its colour is a clear bright pink. It is a most advanced type of Spencer. Duchess of Portland, a delightful cream pink of great size, is another new-comer, while Norma is a superb orange salmon cerise of huge proportions. Several seedlings, including a white and an intense urange, we noted, while among the standard sorts May Campbell, Thomas Stevenson (nearly all fours this), Lady Miller, King White, New- Marquis, and Edrom Beauty are in strong evidence. Messrs. E. W. King and Co., Coggeshall, make an effective display, the stand being tastefully decorated with Smilax and other foliage. Kathleen makes a brilliant patch of colour, while James Box impresses one by the doubling of its flowers. This is certainly one of the leaders in the salmon section. Anglian Blush is a novelty of promise ; Anglian Cream Duplex is striking by its strong colour and tendency to double ; and Morning Mist may be termed a Walter P. Wright on a cream ground. Other notable varieties sre Anglian Fairy, Anglian Royalty, Anglian White and Queen Mary. Several of the varieties shown were cut from the open ground. A very clean exhibit is thU by Mr. J. Steven- son, Wimborne, and while the number of varieties is not extensive, several telling blocks, including Thomas Stevenson, Bertrand Deal, Prince George, Agricola, R. F. Felton, and Hercules we noted. These for the most part are set up in Bamboo pillars, the length of stem in some instances being very great. Mr. James Box, Lindficld, differs from the other exhibitors by setting up a group of plants in th Large Tent ; as all the plants arc in 6-inch pots, it naturally follows that the flowers are not over- large. Nevertheless, they are interesting, and May 23, 1914/ THE GARDEN. 267 demonstrate that Sweet Peas can be grown even in small pots. A great number of varieties are staged. Messrs. S. Bide and Sons, Farnham, elaborately stage a tine collection. All the varieties are set up in glass vases, under a white-roofed erection, the effect being distinctly good. The flowers are extremely strong, and several telling nbvelties are noted. Ruth Bide is an intense rosy salmon, much brighter than A. A. Fabius. Phyllis Bide should give the much-talked-of Robert Sydenham a severe tussle. Bide's Cream is deep in colour, while among other new varieties. Climax (deep rose) , King lUauve, Blue King, King White and Phoebus stand out strongly. A really very striking exhibit. An excellent display is that made by Messrs. Robert Sydenham, Limited, Birmingham, and here on this stand one is able to see that wonderful orange named after the late lamented Robert Sydenham. Grand blocks of Barbara, Inspector, Princess Mary, Thomas Stevenson, Maud Holmes, Margaret Atlee, Lilian and Lady Evelyn Eyre are all splendidly shown. A small stand is put up by Messrs. R. H. Bath, Limited, Wisbech. The firm's new orange named Glow stands out strongly, while some excellent vases of Hercules, King White, La Belle Sauvage, King Manoel, James Box, Mrs. J. C. House, Afterglow, Florence Wright Spencer and Thomas Stevenson are among the remainder that are on view. A very telling exhibit is that of Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading. Backed by a polished I mahogany series of archways, the flowers are j arranged in three semi-circular bays. Elaborate tall vase-holders of polished nickel are carrying I the Howers that fill the spaces between the semi-circles. Robert Sydenham is well shown, ! while a superb new cream, unnamed, is also m evidence. Among others, Barbara, Royal Rose, Maud Holmes, Mrs. J. C. House, Thomas Stevenson, Margaret Atlee, Decorator, R. F. Felton, Inspector and Florence Wright Spencer all stand out prominently in this effective exhibit. Taken collectively, the Sweet Peas are by no means the least important section in the exhibition, and the furms exhibiting deserve full credit for their efforts. Had more space been available, we believe more extensive exhibits could have been set up ; but in conformity with the idea of the Royal Horticultural Society, exhibitors have refrained from duplicating the varieties, with the result that the visitors are able to view a large number of varieties on a comparatively small amount of space. hardy section a novelty worthy of note is Poly- stichum gracillimum Drueryi. This section is well represented, and to Fern-lovers should prove a source of considerable interest. A pretty little table group of Ferns and cactaceo'is plants is shown by Mr. H. N. Ellison, West Bromwich. The Stag's-horn Fern (Platycerium grande) is very fine, and there are other interest- ing plants. Cacti are shown in great variety in small pots. HERBACEOUS & BULBOUS PLANTS. This department is well represented, many leading firms bringing of their best. In the group from Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, W.C, wiU be found a choice collection oi Ixias and Sparaxis ; of the latter Scarlet Gem is a notable sort. Then in Iris susiana, Eremuri, Olearia, Cytisus, Androsace, Gentian and Oriental Poppy the searcher after meritorious subjects has a wide choice. In this group, too, the green- Messrs. George Jackman and Sons, Woking, have many showy things in Delphinium, Pjeony, Lily, Spiraja, Geum Mrs. Bradshaw, the early Gladioli, Oxalis enneaphylla and other choice things. Delphiniums Capri and King of Del- phiniums are very good. Messrs. Wallace and Co., Colchester, have an amazing group near the centre of the Large Tent, the collection particularly rich in Japanese Acers, Lilies, Irises, Ixias, hardy Orchids, Eremuri, Primula and the like. Of the LiUes, such as Martagon dalmaticum, myriophyllum, Krameri, venustum and macranthum are all worthy of note, while the towering spikes of Eremuri wiU appeal to all. Messrs. G. and A. Clark, Limited, Dover, are showing finely Iris, Polyanthus Cloth of Gold, Incarvillcas, Pyrethrums, Geum Mrs. Bradshaw and other showy flowers. Messrs. George Bunyard and Co., Maidstone, have a fine display of hardy flowers, notablv Thalictrum dipterocarpum, Astilbe Ceres, Del- phinium Cymbeline, Iris King of Iris, Eremuri, FERNS. At the south-eastern entrance to the Large Tent, Messrs. H. B. May and Son, Limited, Upper Edmonton, N., have set up one of their renowned groups of choice Ferns. This is of a most repre- sentative character, and comprises many speci- mens of remarkable beauty. There rre some seven hundred species and varieties, which will give the reader some idea of the comprehensive display made by this wonderful group. Specially note- worthy examples are Adiantum grossum, a novelty in Maidenhair Ferns ; Davallia solida superba, one of the very finest specimens ; Pteris flabeUata plumosa, a feathered kind of the old South African species ; and Platycerium Cordreyi, a wonderful development in the Elk-horn Ferns. Of standard Ferns, Nephrolepis WiUmotts is quite the newest type of the Lace Fern. In the HERBACEOUS CALCEOLARIAS EXHIBITED BY MESSRS. E. WEBB AND SONS. flowered Ixia viridiflora is very beautiful, and appeals by reason of its rare colour and quaint- ness. It is charming in the cut state. Mr. James Box, Lindfield Nurseries, Hayward's Heath, is staging admirably Primula, Spiraa, Pseony, Anemone, Incarvillea brevipas and choice Liliums. Of these latter L. Grayii and L. canadense are very beautiful. A group of hardy j Cypripediuras adds interest to the whole. Mr. Amos Perry, Enfield, is making a fine central display of Tree Pasonies, while about and around are collections of Poppies, Irises, hybrids of the Regelio-cyclus and Korolkowi groups and many interesting species. A new white Poppy here is very beautiful, if less sumptuous than some, while the new white Marguerite, Chrysanthemum Leucanthemum fl.-pl., is interesting and good. Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, Kent, has an excellent group of things — Crinodendron Hookeri, Rhodo- dendrons of the choicest sorts in bold array. Irises of the Oncocyclus and Regelio-cyclus sets, with Primula, Cehnisia, Olearia, Cypripedium and other choice subjects. The Rhododendrons and alpines in this group are very beautiful. Pyrethrum Mary Kelway, Rhododendron Pink Pearl, with Ghent Azaleas and other flowers. Messrs. PhiUips and Taylor, Bracknell, have a fine show of Primulas, .Auriculas, Anchusa, Iris, alpine and other Phloxes, Astilbe Peach Blossom and the like. Messrs. Gunn and Sons, Olton, Warwickshire are displaying Phloxes Frau A. Buchner, Elizabeth Campbell, lord Curzon, Princess Royal and other fine kinds in their usual good get dry, as the fleshy roots soon shrivel up if the plants are kept out of the ground too long. With the introduction during the last few years of some new species from China, there are now seventeen hardy. Cypripediums in cultivation. Cypripedium acaule (C. humile) is a North American species with a pair of broad,, hairy leaves, from between which it pushes up a flower-stem over six inches long, surmounted by a green bract and single- flower. The sepals are whitish, while the large pouch is of a bright rose colour veined with crimson. It is distinct from all others in the pouch being split right down the face, giving it a two-lobed appearance. C. arietinuin is a pretty little plant, less easy to grow than most other kinds. The sepals are greenish white, while the lip is white and suffused with rose on the front. It is found in somewhat damp woods in North America. C. Calceolus, a native of this countrj', is excel- lent for naturalising in woods, especially %vhere the soil is of a heavy and calcareous nature. When established, it makes large tufts of many stems, each producing two or three flowers, the sepals; of which are deep brown, while the pouch is yellow. 272 THE GARDEN. [May 23, 1 91 4. This plant is found in many parts of Europe and Siberia. C, californioum is an interesting species with tawny yellow sepals and a blush white pouch obscurely spotted with brown. C. candidum is also very charming, with greenish brown sepals and a yeUow lip. C. fasciculatum bears several flowers on each stem, which often reaches a height of a foot. The sepals are greenish, as is also the lip, which has a purple brown margin. The above three species are less easy to keep than most of the others, and are all North American plants. C. debile is an interesting little plant from Japan, with a pair of leaves like our native Tway- blade (Listera ovata), and a slender, drooping stem bearing a small single flower. The sepals are greenish, while the white pouch is spotted with bro\\Ti. C. guttatum is a rare Siberian plant, and is one of the prettiest as well as one of the most difficult to establish. It prefers soil of a light, open description, with plenty of moisture when growing, but rather dry when at rest. The flowers are of fair size, with white sepals and pouch, the latter being spotted and blotched with crimson-purple. C. japonicum is remarkable for its pair of broad and distinctly ribbed leaves, from which one or two flowers are produced singly on short stalks. They are large and handsome, striated and blotched with green, white, and rose purple. This plant grows freely in shade, but frequently strong crowns fail to flower. C. luteum comes from North- western Hupeh in China, where it was collected by Mr. E. H. Wilson, who also met with it in greater quantities on the borders of China and Tibet. It is an erect-growing plant, with solitary flowers, the sepals and petals being clear yellow, while the yellow pouch usually has a few spots of orange brown on its face. The stems are stout and leafy, and covered with a short, brownish pubescence. C. macranthum . — This Siberian species is one of the most handsome members of the family, growing about a foot high and bearing large, almost uniform, rose purple flowers. It is partial A DAINIY lady's SLIPPER ORCHID : C. MONTANUM. THE TWISTED SEPALS ARE BROWN AND THE POUCH WHITE. others, approaching in this respect more nearly C. Calceolus, with which it is often found grow- ing in its native habitats. These two intercross and pro- duce an intermediate plant known as C. ventricosum, which differs from macran- thum in its longer, narrower sepals, nar- rower pouch and paler colour. C. Thunbergii is the Japanese form of this plant, with paler- mloured flowers. C. montanum is a beautiful and dis- tuict little species from North-Westem .America, with three or four flowers on each stem. The sepals are brownish AN INTERESTING HYBRID : CYPRIPEDIUM VENTRICOSUM (C. MACRANTHUM X C. CALCEOLUS). I0 a more loamy soil j purple, while the pouch is white and striped than -most of the ] with red inside. (Syn., C. occidentale.) C. pubescens (C. hirsutum). — A handsome, free-growing species from North America. In a cool, shady spot it will thrive and produce stems up to 2 feet high, bearing large yellow flowers. The twisted sepals are pale yellow and spotted with brown. C. parviflorum is a closely allied species of C. pubescens, with smaller yellow flowers, spotted and suffused with brown. It is also a native of North America. C. Reginae (C. spectabile). — One of the finest hardy Orchids and the easiest to grow. It will thrive in a shady border and form large tufts, with many of the stems over two feet high, bearing two or three flowers on each. In colour they are white, with the greater portion of the lip suffused with rich rose. In sheltered portions of the rock garden groups of it are very attractive, the necessary conditions being thorough drainage, rich soil and plenty of moisture. It comes from North America. C. tibeticum. — .A handsome species from Western China, and another introduction of Messrs. Veitch and Sons through their collector, Mr. E. H. Wilson. In habit it resembles C. macranthum, but its flowers are larger, with the sepals tessellated dark purple and a chocolate- coloured pouch. So far it has not proved very amenable to cultivation. W. I. May 23, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 273 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. MUSHROOM CULTURE ON OLD HOT-BEDS. IN the majority of small gardens the Mush- room is rarely cultivated, there being a prevalent idea that it cannot be grown without special beds and structures. Cer- tainly, if one requires this delicious vegetable all the year round, a Mushroom - house becomes a necessity. However, there must be numerous gardens where there are one or two old hot-beds lying idle all through the summer, and it is in these that sufficient may be grown to supply the household for several weeks. Those who utilise frames for the raising of half-hardy annuals, &c., will have them empty about the end of June, the manure which originally composed the hot- bed being left in the frames until it can be dug in during the autumn months. These old beds of manure will give quite a good crop of Mush- rooms without any trouble. As a rule, a period of six to eight weeks elapses between spawning and the appearance of Mush- rooms, so that June and July are very suitable months in whi-'h to spawn the beds. The manure will have lost most ot its natural heat at this time of the year, but will have retained sufficient solar warmth to start the white films or " mycelium." It is essential that the spawn should be good, other- wise the Mushrooms will be few and poor in quality. For a 6-feet by 4-feet frame one brick of Mushroom spawn will suffice. This should be broken into eight or ten pieces, wliich should be forced into the manure at regular intervals over the bed. Do this by hand and not with a dibbler, as so many do, for this instrument leaves smooth, hollow spaces which prevent the spawn from spreading. Do not break the brick into more than ten pieces, for small pieces result in small Mushrooms. As soon as spawning is completed, cover the bed with straw or litter of some kind and put on the lights. In about a week the spawn should have commenced to impregnate- the manure. It is easy to see if all is well, for should the spawn be bad or not alive, the pieces will be considerably darker than when inserted. If, however, they appear greyish or mouldy, then the time has come for covering the bed with soil. The best soil for this purpose is undoubtedly that from an old pasture which has been stacked for about a year. It is Nature's compost, and the Mushrooms will revel in it. When applying, it should be moderately moist, the layer being from 2 inches to 3 inches thick. Beat it down solid with the back of a spade ; it cannot be made too hard, as the Mushrooms will come through, no matter how hard the soil may be. The writer has seen the uncultivated Mushroom make its appearance through a hard- rolled carriage drive. Having beaten down the earth, again replace the litter, or, if this is not obtainable, the lights may be placed on the frame and the glass covered with sacking. Every endeavour should be made to keep an even tempera- ture of 60°, which may be accomplished by varying the thickness of the covering material. The bed should be kept uniformly moist, for if allowed to become dry, the bed will almost certainly fail to produce. The degree of moisture may be ascer- tained by keeping two sticks thrust in the top and bottom of the bed, which should be withdrawn from time to time and examined. If found to be too dry, the bed should be moistened with a syringe, using water of tlie sam' temperature as the bed. If litter is used, this mi.ist ue removed before spraying, and returned as soon iis the opera- tion is over, putting on the lights to keep the temperature normal. If no Mushrooms appear in eight weeks, do not assume that the bed is a failure, for it may happen that they will appear in another week or two. When they make their appearance, do not remove the covering material more than can be helped, other- wise the Mushrooms are apt to become brown on the top. When gathering, pull out the stalk, which would otherwise decay and stop the pro- duction at that part of the bed. South Heath, Great Missenden. Thro.xenby. see that the young plants do not suffer from the want of water, and keep them free from weeds. If it can possibly be managed, transplant to their flowering quarters early in the autumn, as by so doing they become established before the winter sets in, and start straight away without a check when tlie milder weather comes round. Most amateurs have a shady border which it is always a difficulty to fill, and if any readers are in this predicament I would advise them to give these plants a trial. Troon, Ayrshire. G. B. W. HOW TO GROW CANTERBURY BELLS. For making a brilliant display of colour in early summer and midsummer few flowers can rival these SOME SALIENT POINTS IN BEDDING OUT PLANTS. The work of clearing away spring-flown ng subjects to make room for the summer-flowering ones is being attended to now, and much thought will be given to the arrangemei t of the new occupants of the beds. It 1- well to remember that the soil in the beds is poorer now than it was last autumn, and that MUSHROOMS GROWING IN AN OLD HOT-BED THAT HAD PREVIOUSLY BEEN USED FOR BEDDING PLANTS. old favourites, which have for so many years adorned our gardens. Plants raised from seeds last year will now be throwing up their flower-spikes, and if they are in a position at all exposed to strong winds, a neat stake should be attached to each, so that, should a storm come, one may rest assured that no damage can be done. A thorough soaking of liquid manure or a top-dressing of some approved fertiliser given at short intervals until the colour shows in the buds will be of immense benefit to the plants at this season of their growth. Sowing Seed. — But while the grower of these plants is eagerly awaiting the result of his work during the last twelve months, he must not rest on his laurels if he wants another display next year, as the present is the most opportune time to sow seed. By sowing early, strong tufts are produced by the autumn, and only well-grown specimens make a good display the following season. Sow the seed thinly in drills far enough apart to allow the hoe to pass between, and when germination has taken place, thin out to about six inches apart. If the summer is very dry. some fresh soil would be an advantage. In order that the soil may be kept at a certain level, some of it should be removed before the new soil is put in ; then the latter and some well-rotted manure should he thoroughly mixed with the old loam. In the case of clayey loams, add some leaf-soil and a small quantity of peat for Begonias, and where the soil is fairly rich, be more sparing of the manure if Zonal Pelargoniums, Nastur- tiums or Petunias are to occupy the beds. With regard to the form of the bed where sandy soils obtain, I have seen many formed with high centres, resulting in a pitch of nearly 30°. Very little water ever penetrated the dusty surface, and the plants put out never fully occupied the space they were intended to fill. In instances of this kind a flat surface is much more satisfactory. In hot places. Zonal Pelargoniums, Petunias and Nasturtiums will succeed better than in damp, shady ones ; while in the latter, tuberous Begonias, Fuchsias, Pansies, Violas and Calceo- larias will thrive. It is advisable to pick off fully developed flowers at planting-time. Shamrock. 274 THE GARDEN. [May 23, 1914. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. Early Muscat Vines. — If these were started early, the Grapes will have passed the stoning stage, and should be induced to finish ripening to as high a degree as possible. When colouring commences a constant movement of moderately dry air ought to be maintained, and the night temperature never allowed to fall below 70", rising to 80° or 85° by day with sun-heat. Thinning Late Grapes. — In all cases this work should be taken in hand as soon as the berries are sufficiently advanced, for if once delayed the work becomes increasingly difficult day by day, and many of the berries are injured in consequence. Avoid touching the bunches with the hand, and keep the scissors perfectly clean. The largest and best-placed berries should be left in such a manner that the full circumference of the bunches may be retained. Promote a moist atmosphere and give air with great caution. Late-Planted Vines. — All lateral shoots may be stopped at the first joint, and keep the leading shoot from coming in contact with the glass. Shut up the house early in the afternoon m order to make the most of the sun-heat, and never allow the Vines to suffer from want of water at the roots. Plants Under Glass. Primula sinensis. — If seeds were sown in April, the plants will now require potting into small, clean pots. The soil may consist of rich loam and leaf-soil in equal parts, with sufficient sharp sand to keep it sweet and porous. Place them near the glass in a close pit, and syringe with clear soft water twice daily. Further sowings may be made now in finely sifted soil. Cinerarias. — Young seedlings may be potted as soon as a second rough leaf has been made. Place them in a close, cool pit and shade from strong sun. When well rooted, ventilation should be freely given, and they must never be permitted to suffer from want of water at the roots. For successional plants sow again and grow in a clean, well-ventilated pit. Cannas. — These plants appear to advantage in the conservatory during the summer, where they associate well with other subjects. They require a liberal supply of moisture at the roots, and will benefit b>^ an occasional dusting of artificial manure. Plants intended for late flowering should be potted up into larger-sized pots. Rich loam and leaf-soil will suit them well. Hard-Wooded Greenhouse Plants.— The latest batch of Azaleas will be in flower now, and will require careful attention to watering. As soon as the flowering period is over, the plants should be removed to an intermediate house and started into growth. Remove all seed-pods, and when growth commences any potting which is necessary should be done before the young growths are too far advanced. The Flower Garden. Bulbs. — There should be no delay in planting any bulbs which have been forced. If planted in the pleasure grounds while the foliage is green, they will retain their foliage much longer, and better results may be expected than if allowed to wither in the pots before being put out. Salvia Pride of Zurich.— These plants should be gradually hardened and prepared for planting in the open. If pot-bound, they must be care- fully watered, so that they may not become stunted before the time arrives when they may be planted out with safety. Weak liquid manure may be given at alternate waterings until they are put out. Preparation for Siunmer Bedding. — As soon as the early flowering bulbs are over, the ground should be prepared for other subjects. Let the soil be thoroughly broken up, and, if necessary-, a quantity of old Mushroom-bed manure or that from a spent hot-bed should be mixed with it. Beds in which Begonias are to be planted should receive special preparation in the way of good leaf-soil or some light, rich material, and may also receive a sprinkling of fine bone-meal. When all is ready. the hardier plants, such as Geraniums, should be planted first, leaving Heliotropes, Begonias, Cannas, Iresines and other tender subjects till the last. Dahlias. — Spring-struck plants may still be kept under slight protection, but old plants which have been forwarded in cold frames may have the lights removed, only to be replaced in case of frost. Planting may be delayed imtil the first week in June, especially in low-lying districts where late frosts are frequent. The Kitchen Garden. Broad Beans. — Another sowing of these may be made now, and, if necessary, a fortnight later. Broad Windsor is the best variety for this purpose, and will do much better if sown in trenches into which a quantity of decayed manure has been dug. Early sown Beans may have their tops removed immediately after sufficient flowers are open, and should black aphis appear, the plants ought to be syringed with a mixture of soft soap and water. French Beans. — Plants which are pushing through the ground will require protection from frost or cold winds, but this crop will repay the cultivator for any extra trouble. Fortnightly sowings may be made from now onwards, in order to keep up a supply of tender young pods. The Belfast is one of the best for this purpose, and if picked young may be cooked and served uncut. Potatoes. — ^The soil between the rows of early Potatoes should be deeply stirred previous to earthing up the plants. This will destroy numerous small weeds, as well as prepare the soil for the young tubers. In earthing up Potatoes the soil should not be drawTi up to a sharp ridge, but left in such a way as to permit the rain-water to reach the roots. Spinach. — Make frequent sowings from now onwards, choosing a cool north border for the purpose. Make a small sowing of New Zealand Spinach in a warm position. This may prove a valuable substitute for ordinary Spinach if hot weather sets in. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Broad Beans. — Where these were sown towards the end of January they will now be in a forward state, and if it is desired to have an early supply, the points should be pinched out as soon as there is a good show of blossom. Sometimes this is necessarj' where the crop has been attacked by fly, as it seems to be the only means of getting rid of it. Should the weather be excessively dry, the plants ought to have a good soaking of water, otherwise, if allowed to become dr\' at the roots, the blooms are sure to fall off. Turnips. — Should the fly make its appearance on the young plants, no time must be lost in giving them a dusting of soot or lime. I have also found dusting with fine ashes that have been kept dry most effectual. For obvious reasons this dusting should be done in the early morning, and done thoroughly. Sometimes, however, all of these fail to save the crop, and there will be nothing for it but to make another sowing in somewhat richer soil. Runner Beans. — As these Beans are less hardy than the dwarf varieties, it will not bo wise to sow much before this date ; indeed, if left until the beginning of Tune there wlj still be time to secure a crop in an average season. They may be sown in long single i;r double rows to screen the vegetable quarter--, which at certain seasons of the year are rather unsightly. In any case a well-grown row gives a very pleasing effect when in bloom. When the young plants are a few inches high, they will require to be trained to the poles or stakes, although I believe many people top them once or twice during the season and do away with sticks. This practice is not to be recommended, more particularly in cold districts, as they take much longer to yield. Vffatering Newly Planted Crops.— In dry weather these will require to be watered frequently. This applies equally to seedlings as well as toothers of larger growth. This watering is verj' beneficial in hastening the fresh rooting and setting the plants into growth from the beginning. The Flower Garden. Violets. — Young plants that were put out towards the end of last month will require to be carefully attended to at the present time, especially if the weather is hot and dry. Where there is difficulty in keeping them supplied with water, they may be shaded from the direct rays of the sun by placing some ordinary Pea sticks among the plants until they are fairly started into growth. By all means syringe them over on the evenings of fine days. Polyanthuses. — Seed may be sown now out of doors, or, where only a few plants are required, seed may be sown in a box and placed in a cold frame. When the seedlings are large enough to handle, prick them out into a spot which is partially shaded, and work in a good quantity of leaf-mould to promote a quick growth. Established plants will have passed out of flower, and if it is desired to increase the stock, they may be split up and planted in a position as recommended for seedlings. Sowing Perennials. — As a riile these plants are not sown early enough, more especially in late districts. Where there is a difficulty in getting plants sufficiently established by the autumn, I would recommend sowing not much later than the present date. Very often they are sown in boxes and pricked out, and finally transplanted into the open border. No doubt there is a good deal to be said for this system ; still, where it is at all possible, I think we get better results by sowing in the open. I find we get much stronger and hardier plants, which are therefore better able to puU through the winter. Rock Garden.— The majority of the plants will now be at their best, and as they pass out of flower they should be gone over from time to time, cutting off faded flowers and keeping down weeds. Make a note of those plants that are required for seed and put a label to them to that effect, otherwise they may be inadvertently cut off in the general clear up. Primula rosea grown beside a stream has been especially fine this season, and where it is intended to increase the stock, the plants should be divided and replanted %vith care, as they resent any careless handling. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Raspberries. — As the young growths advance, keep them well thinned out, only retaining the most likely shoots to produce next season's crop. We usually allow far tqo many canes to remain, with the result that they grow into a perfect tangle, and even the best of them are indifferently ripened. If the plants were not mulched with manure, as previously advised, no time should be lost in seeing to this very necessary work. Strawberries. — These will now be in flower, and more than likely a very abundant crop of weeds will be making their appearance. These should be removed at once, as if left they seriously interfere with the swelUng of the fruit, besides the chances of their running to seed. Have al) the protecting material put down at once. Fruits Under Glass. Orchard-House. — As all the fruit will now be swelling, it will be necessary to maintain a buoyant atmosphere. On fine days use the syringe freely to keep aphis in check, and it will still be necessary to exercise care in ventilating. Keep the young growths pinched rather closely, as if this is, done systematically there need be no fear of the fruit receiving a check from this pinching. Peaches and Nectarines. — ^Trees that are approaching the stoning stage should be kept somewhat cooler ; indeed, they must not be excited in any way. When, however, they com- mence the second swelling, they should be assisted with frequent applications of liquid manure. The crop must be regulated according to the state of the trees, and the temperature should be allowed to rise considerably by closing the house early in the afternoon. On the approach of the ripening stage they must have a constant circulation of air. John Highgate. (Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.) Hopetoun Gardens, South Queensftrry, N.B. May 23, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 275 SEASONABLE NOTES ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS. A LL the plants, except, perhaps, a few /% of the late-struck ones, intended for / % flowermg on single stems in small / % pots will now be growing in open *■ J^- quarters. The special ones referred to will require the protection of a cold frame with the lights off for a week or so longer. Close Spacing of Plants. — When young plants are first removed to open quarters, it is advisable to stand them rather close together for a week or ten days. If, however, they remain so for a longer period, many lower leaves will suffer. Exclusion from full light sadly weakens them, and, although they do not fall off at once, they do so prematurely later on in the season. Place the plants in rows at least a foot apart until they are finally repotted, and then, after that operation, the large pots may be placed close together for a week or so before they are arranged in rows several feet apart for the summer months. Feeding and Repotting must be done every week where a cultivator has to keep up the general good health of a large collection of plants, I would not hesitate to shift a plant which badly needed more rooting space in a 4§-inch pot to a 6-inch one in the middle of May, and so defer the final potting of that plant by a fortnight in consequence, than let it remain in the smaller pot and then transfer it to the flowering pot a fortnight earlier than is reasonable, or else let it remain the extra time in the smaller pot and deteriorate to a certain extent. This occasional shifting on of young plants by degrees tends very materially to maintain the whole collection in a high state of health. There are always many plants in a collection at this season that are benefited by occasional doses of liquid manure, and some with very hard stems and toughening leaves will be benefited if given a dose of nitrate of soda at the rate of a teaspoonful to a gallon of water. Such plants must possess a fair number of roots. When this is applied, the soil must be still in a moist state from a previous watering with clear water. Poor Loam tor Final Pottings. — The compost acts as a storehouse for food and a home for the roots of the plants. A vast amount of nourishment can be given through the medium of the poorest soils, but where possible a rich loam should form the great bulk of the compost for the final potting. All cultivators, however, cannot procure such good loam, and must be content with that of a poor nature. The poor loam, however, can be improved if it is procured several weeks prior to the date of using it. First chop it into medium- sized pieces with a spade, and then reduce it by hand pulling. Spread it out in an open shed or in a shady place outside, and pour some rather strong liquid manure on it— enough to saturate the whole mass through. Then throw up the loam to form a conical-shaped heap and cover it with boards or mats until the time comes for the final potting. The other ingredients may with advantage be added to it ten days before. This is a good plan to adopt with composts, both rich and poor. The mistake is often made of chopping the turf into small pieces ; but ex- perienced growers know the advantage of pulling the loam to pieces by hand. Avon. THE TULIP TRIALS AT WISLEY. THE second and 'ast meeting of the joint Tulip Nomenclature Committee was held at Wisley on May 6 and 7, when the Cottage and Darwin varieties were all carefully gone over and the names put right or noted as correct. An accurate colour and base description of each variety is being prepared, and after next season, when the trials will be repeated, a list will be issued under the joint auspices of the Royal Horticultural Society of England and the Bulb Growers' Associa- tion of Holland. In this there will be a description of all the Cottage and Darwin varieties, with illustrations of typical bases and a list of synonyms. The committee is constituted as under : Dutch members — Mr. E. H. Krelage, president of the Dutch Bulb Growers' Association ; Mr. J. Roes, chairman of the Tulip committee of the Dutch Bulb Growers' Association ; Mr. Jan de Graaff, a member of the Council of the Dutch Bulb Growers' wanted, and should do much to instruct the Tulip- loving public as to how to recognise the various types of breeder. Cottage, Darwin, Parrot, &c. The Tulips at Wisley were in excellent condition, and it was evident that great pains had been taken in their culture, or after the trying time of drought, and then of wind and rain, which they had gone through, it would have been otherwise. Readers should make a mental note of the repetition of these trials next year with the idea of paying them a visit. It is anticipated that additional lots will be sent for planting. As there were about four thousand planted last autumn, which will nearly all be replanted next autumn, as well as any fresh ones sent in, there should be a great display, which it will be worth while anyone seeing and studying. MAY -FLOWERING TULIPS. (Daewins.) Nicolas van Kampen and Son were celebrated florists who flourished in Haarlem in the eigh- teenth century. So wide was their trade that A VIEW IN THE TULIP TRIAL GROUNDS AT WISLEY. Association and a member of the Royal Horti- cultural Society's Daffodil and Tulip committee ; and Mr. Thomas Hoog, a member of the firm of G. C. van Tubergen of Haarlem, famous for the collection of Tulip species. British members — Mr. E. A. Bowles, chairman of the Royal Horti- cultural Society's Daffodil and Tulip committee ; Mr. P. R. Barr, a member of the Royal Horti- cultural Society's Daffodil and Tulip committee and of the Council of the Royal National Tulip Society ; Mr. G. W. Leak, a member of the Royal Horticultural Society's Dafiodil and Tulip com- mittee ; Mr. A. D. Hall, the Rev. Joseph Jacob and Mr. Walter T. Ware, members of the Royal Horticultural Society's Daffodil and Tulip com- mittee and of the Council of the Royal National Tulip Society ; and Mr. C. W. Needham, treasiurer of the Royal National Tulip Society. I might also mention that a scheme of garden classification is under consideration, and it is proposed to issue this at the same time as the descriptions and synonyms. Such a scheme is badly they issued lists of bulbs in Enghsh and French, as well as in their own language. I have such a list before me now, dated 1770. It contains the names and descriptions of all the Tulips, early and late, in their extensive collection. It is hardly necessary to say that these are almost entirely striped or rectified varieties. A casual remark in the descrip- tion of an early one named L'AbSme (The Abyss) tells us what their, feehngs about the self-coloured or breeder forms were. Here it is : " The breeder of Hecuba, perfect in every respect, but only a breeder." " But only a breeder " ; there's con- temptuousness for you. But so it was, and so it continued to be until very modern times indeed. I have seen many illustrations and many lists of Tulips with descriptions from the time of this list of van Kampen's up to the present day ; but it is only within the last thirty or thirty-five years that the self varieties which we now call " Cottage " have appeared, and at a later date stiU, the " Dar- wins." 1 have often puzzled my head to know 276 THE GARDEN. [May 23, 1914. how it was that these plain or self-coloured forms were never valued in the past. I have many views on the subject, but none quite bears the test of probability and experience. This is my latest. I have in bloom now — or I had until yesterday, May ;r. when by far the worst hail- storm that I have ever had in Tulip-time visited my garden — four large beds of old Dutch breeders. .\5 the result of a h'nt that these were the type ot iiower thai the Pilgrim Fathers used to cultivate in the old land befure the Mayflower sailed, my friend Heer Jan de Graaff ttUs m" that the people 01 the New England States are mad about them. They are undoubtedly a little sad and duU-loolcing, and I am now wondering if this can be the key • to such a remark as " only a breeder." Put such kinds as Vertumnus, Charles Dickens, General Ney and Le Grand Conquereur, which are some of the best of them, side by side with Petrus Hondius, Famcombe Sanders and Pride of Haarlem, and ninety-nine people out of a hundred would prefer the latter for garden decoration on account of their brighter and gayer colouring. I find the old saying of every dog having its j day is, roughly speaking, true of Tulips. Where they are not wanted for cutting and where there is no drawing-room to think of, bright pink and , lavender and mauve Darwins seem to be the ones most admired at the present time. Erguste and Euterpe are always singled out, the first being a blue mauve, and the second a pink mauve and rather a larger flower and taUer plant. Both are very lovely. A third variety of an even more fascinating shade is the old Cottage Darwin- looking variety Salaman, with its pure white base and silvery tone. In its general shape it very much resembles a Darwin. It is useful for a succession, as it blooms a week later than the two mentioned. In the larger and more robust- looldng deep greys and dark mauves there is the same difference between the two most often seen. La Tristesse and Remembrance, as between Euterpe and Erguste. The first have a more rosy look in their young state and developing with age into more of a bicolor, as the three inner petals take on a pearly grey, which contrasts sharply with the darker purple of the exterior ones. The largest and tallest is Ronald Gunn. He looks as if he had gone to a fancy-dress ball as a billiard cue. The white tip is characteristic of youth. With age it either disappears or the grey edges of the petals develop and it is lost. This is a very handsome Tulip. Of the real darkies, such as La Tulipe Noire, Ph. de Commines, Faust, Black Night and Zulu, none is more effective, nor has any been more admired with me, than Fra Angelico. It has a large, round, open flower, and always looks so rich and glossy. Background is every- thing to these dusky gentlemen. I have more than once seen bedding effects marred by this not having been thought of. There comes to my mind now a row of bright reds and yellows, and in their midst unaccountable gaps. Have there been failmres ? No ; it is only the dark Ph. de Commines or Leonardo da Vinci that do not show. As Fra Angelico is one of the earliest Darwins, I would suggest Faust for a second dark, or (only I fear the price is high) Ravenswing. Both are exceedingly handsome, long-shaped flowers, and contrast wcU with the rounder- shaped " Fra." Bright pink and cerise shades have been much noticed this season. I have only a himdred or so bulbs of the fascinating Louise de la Valli^re, but no one passed it without remarking upon its beauty. I call it a warm soft rose, with just a suspicion of a salmon shade all over it. Then there is Petrus Hondius, a large and more open bloom, not quite such a tall grower and with more carmine in its composition — exceedingly bright ; in fact, one of the brightest of aU Darwins. A later bloomer which somewhat takes after Farncombe Sanders in colour is Galatea. I have found it very satisfactory in every way — bright, large and tall. The scarlet red shades seem down on their luck. A lovely richly coloured bed of the truly magnifi- cent City of Haarlem is invariably passed by. So is Feu Brilliant, and so are Nerine, Scarlet Beauty, Laurentia and Teddy. And yet the latter's nearest companion, Maiden's Blush, a pretty rose pink with a very wide, pronoimced blush edge, is usually singled out. Another of these pinky rose bordered varieties that almost everyone has passed some appreciative remark upon is La Fiancee. Tall and embonpoint she stood among her compeers. It seems she must be noticed even to the very end. I think I have four of the very best yellow-browns : Gondvink, the tall, lairge, tortoiseshell-comb coloured one ; Clio, the nice baked biscuit ; Golden Bronze, rich gold and brown ; and Quaintness, a some- what pale-looking brown, with the edges and the interiors of the petals of quite a yellow shade. These are among the kinds that are so popular over in America, and as I am very partial to them myself, I think it shows Brother Jonathan's good taste. The dark purples, by which I mean such varieties as Frans Hals, The Bishop, Jubilee, Vildng, Moralis, Velvet King, Valentin and The Giant, seem to be, with the exception of Moralis and Valentin, redder than usual this spring. I thought the same one year before, but I am never able to decide whether it is imagination or reality, for I know how difficult it is to carry an accurate impression of colour even from day to day. Probably Valentin has been more admired than any other Tulip in my garden. The silvery- looking bluish purple of its immense flowers, i borne as they are on long stems, at once catches the eye, and it keeps on doing it ; it is such a wonderful laster. Out first, it is still there even when the Darwin season is far advanced. My I great favourite, the deep blue purple The Bishop, attracted everyone last year whenever it was shown, and was eagerly bought up. There is nothing with quite the same rich deep blue tone among the purples, for usually they incline very much to the red side. Viking is as near to it in colour as any, but it is more of a bicolor, the exterior of the inner petals being so much paler than the outer ones that the solid self look of The Bishop is wanting. Moralis might almost be described as a very dark blue. It is so far away from the red-toned purples that it might well be put in a class by itself. A dark breeder, by name Sappho (syn. Regal Purple), is very much the same colour, and is covered with a similar bloom, just like the well-known Kirke's Plum. Everyone should try Moralis, but it must not be forgotten when assigning it a place that it is one of the darkest of the darks, and must have suit- able setting if justice is to be done. The ruby reds must not be forgotten. They are not magentas (that most unfortunate colour that no one, or hardly anyone, likes) ; but they have each of them a certain amount of blue in their composition. They range from the splendid old Pride of Haarlem to the comparatively untaown Jeffries, which always brings to my mind a parcel of unset pigeons' blood rubies that I once saw in Rangoff Tara (syn. William Goldring) is a very old favourite with me. It has a large flower of a bright ruby red shade, borne on a plant of medium and quite sufiicient height. Palisa is the only other one of this colour group that I will mention. I call it one of my 1914 finds. It happened in one place to be next to Sierrad van Flora, and the two made such a capital and novel combination that I feel I may suggest it as a possibility for next season. Both will be found among the cheaper ones, which is a point in their favour. The colour of Palisa is a bright-looking, deep- toned ruby red. Wall-papers, cloth clothes (for I dare not suggest that there is the same perplexity among the fair sex as among us men) and Tulips are all in the same category when with many spread before U3 it comes to making a final decision. Even now I want to erase some of what I have just written and put in other names. I do envy a man who can choose, such, let me say, as Mr. Leak of Messrs. R. H. Bath, Limited. He and I were among those who went to Wisley to judge the Tulip trials. Although there was not every Darwin in the world there, the number of those that were was legion. We both utilised our bit of breathing-time before we left by quickly going over them. When the sand was nearly run out, he surprised me by saying, " I have selected what I consider the six best." It will probably interest my readers as much as it did me to know what a man of such wide experience chose. Ii> alphabetical order they are as foUow : Alata,. a warm pink with a lovely blue base ; Andro- maque, a fine deep cherry crimson ; Anton Mauve, a taU plant after the type of Ronald Gunn and Remembrance, but the mauve in the exterior segments is much redder, while the edges have the same silvery shade ; Georgia, just missed being a magenta, and as a woman who has just missed being pretty is plain, so, vice versa, just missed magenta means lovely— it has a white base, and is of the open shape of Bleu Aimable ; Scarlet Perfection, an eye-opener ; and Venus, a beautiful old rose with a white base. Joseph Jacob. A LITTLE - KNOWN ROSE. One of the most delightful and brilliant coloured of the Hybrid Perpetual group is, strangely, very little known ; indeed, I do not know any English- list that contains it. The name is Frantois Copp6e. It was raised by Ledechaux and introduced in- 1855. The colour is a brilliant velvety crimson, a mixture almost of Xavier Olibo and EugAne Fiirst ; indeed, it somewhat resembles the latter in form, but has a more fiery scarlet towards the edges of the petals. We shall make a great mistake if we allow some of these old Hybrid Perpetuals to be lost. Whtre- are there any among the Hybrid Teas Roses to equal them for colour, form and fulness ? Take our old favourites Victor Hugo, I.ouis van Houtte and Charles Lefebvre. Why, they are equal to any- thing among the Hybrid Teas. Of course, they do not give us much in the autumn ; but still, they are superb, and we must retain them at all costs,, even if they have to be relegated to the spare garden. A row or two of these gems planted in the kitchen garden would be of great usefulness to blend with the yellows and pinks of the Hybrid Teas when they are culled for the house, and if they are obtained on the Briar, they will give a. fine display quite late ; at least, most of the varieties will do so. D.4NEC.R0FT. §^t. GARDEN. 1 —^^- ^X^^ No. 2219.— Vol. LXXVIII. May 30, 1914. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Attendance at the Chelsea Show. — We under- stand that the attendance at the Chelsea Show created a record. No fewer than 23,000 persons paid for admission. When we remember that there are about twenty-seven thousand Fellows' tickets available, and that these are used freely throughout each day, some idea of the total number of visitors is obtained. An Early Harebell. — All who have a rock garden, whether large or small, should include Steven's Harebell, Campanula Stevenii. It is the first of the genus to greet us, and the attractive blue flowers are borne in such profusion as to almost hide the plant. There is a variety, nana, which differs very little from the type, except that the flowers are practically ^ sessile among the leaves. The white variety also is very beautiful. All must be planted in well-drained soil. A Useful Early Border Plant.— Thalictrum aquilegifolium, the Tufted or Feathered Columbine, is without doubt the best of the Meadow Rues. In flower it is particularly charming, and is sure to attract attention when seen in well - established groups, as the corymbose panicles of creamy purplish blossoms are very striking, and the foliage handsome and distinct. There are several well - marked varieties, all of which are worthy of cultivation. They are not particular as to soil, but should be left alone for a few years. Pentstemons and Antirrhinums. — These are to a large extent displacing the more tender subjects in the adorn- ment of our flower gardens, and this is not to be wondered at, seeing they give a wealth of bloom over such a long period and can be grown by the novice. No time should be lost in getting them into their flowering quar- ters, as everything depends on a good start. In planting, do not overcrowd in the bed, otherwise they cannot produce such handsome spikes as we associate with these plants. Ten-Week Stocks and Asters. — These should now be ready for planting out, and in doing so it will be advisable to give them a little more attention than they often receive. We are usually very careful about attending to the little details as to the sowing of the seed, but the planting out is often done in a very haphazard way, with the result that half the beauty of these delightful annuals is lost. Should the soil be of a heavy nature, fork in some light material, such as old potting soil, and some well-rotted manure. In planting, select a dull day, and with this little extra care it is surprising the difference one gets in the results. Damage Caused by Lightning at Kew. — Two trees were struck by lightning during the severe thunderstorm which swept along the lower reaches of the Thames Valley on the evening of May 22. One of the trees was a large Sweet Chestnut standing near to the stables in the Arboretum, and the other a Cedar in the Cedar Avenue near to the Pagoda. In the latter instance the bark of the tree was stripped in spirals, the shattered bark and cones being distributed on the ground around the tree. Two flagstones A GRECIAN WOODRUFF, ASPERULA SUBEROSA, IN THE ROCK GARDEN. IT HAS DAINTY FLOWERS OF A PLEASING PINK SHADE. in the pathway near to the Japanese Gate were moved from their positions by lightning, one of them being turned completely over. A Grecian Woodruff (Asperula suberosa). — This beautiful little plant, with dainty pink flowers and woolly foliage, is well adapted for a dry comer in the rock garden. Like most other plants with woolly foliage, it needs protection against damp, especially during the winter. June is its month for flowering, but this year, owing to the spell of warm and dry weather, it is flowering a little before its time, and many an alpine garden is all the more interesting owing to the presfnce of this pretty mountain flower. It is synonymous with Asperula Athoa. Growing Tomatoes in the Open. — Plants must be well hardened before they are set out, and if showing their first bunch of flowers, so much the better. The soil should be well prepared and a small quantity of decayed manure incorporated with it. If space is available on a south or west wall, there can be no better position for them. Our Chelsea Show Number. — We wish to thank the numerous readers who have written such highly appreciative letters about our Special Chelsea Show Number. This special issue was quickly sold out, but to meet the demand we had a few extra copies printed. Anyone who failed to secure one can obtain a copy direct from this office, post free 2jd, We also thank th^m for their kind congratulations anent the judges' award of a silver Flora medal. The Garden was the only horticultural paper to receive an award from the judg'^s. Sun Roses for Dry, Sunny Banks.— Few plants are more valuable for such positions than the Helianthemums, which are now giving their masses of flowers, from purest white to deep crimson, with almost every intermediate shade of colour imaginable, completely hiding the foliage and producing such a blaze of colour as is seldom foimd in any other class of plant. The warmer the position the brighter and freer they flower, and they are ideal subjects for such places, where the majority of plants would fail. They are readily raised from seed or from cuttings. Royal Gardeners' Orphan Fund.— At the twenty-sixth annual dinner, held recently imder the presidency of Baron Bruno Schroder, the sum of £1,200 was collected in aid of this very deserving charity. This is the second highest amount that has been collected at the annual dinner. There is reason to think, however, that further subscriptions wUl be needed to meet the many distressing cases that are brought before the committee. Since the election of candidates in February there are already sixteen orphans awaiting the help extended by this charity. The Fund makes an allowance to aid in the mainte- nance and education of the orphans until they reach the age of foiurteen years, and assists them in the purchase of clothing or tools or in providing apprenticeship fees when they are commencing to earn their own livelihood. The secretary is Mr. Brian Wynne, rg, Bedford Chambers, Coven t Garden, London, to whom all communications, should be sent. 278 THE GARDEN. [May 30, 1914. CORRESPONDENCE. {The Editor is twt responsible for the opinions expressed bv correspondents.) Protecting Gentians with Glass. — 1 also had very good results from covering the Gentians as recommended by Mr. R. A. Malby in The Garden last year. — R. H. H. Tulip Yellow Rose. — This is a very old double variety, seemingly derived from Tulipa suaveolens. At any rate it is sweet-scented ; but its greatest charm is its colour — like splashes of yellow May butter. I used not to like it on account of its flowers being so heavy that they always bent to the ground. But that failing, like some others, is not without its compensations, and the large, sprawling lumps of yellow lying on the ground are forgiven for their exquisite colour tones, and in sunny weather they are not at all out of place in that lowly position. — R. P. Brotherston. Beautiful Seeds. — As I have been an interested reader of The Garden for several years, I have been rather disappointed that mention is seldom Tulips branched last year, with the exception of Fashion, which is known to have a leaning that way. There are no more interesting plants than these late Tulips, and if anyone is thinking of going in for them for the first time, let me suggest that they include in their lists Isabella and Fashion, for it is most fascinating to watch the extraordinary change in colour which takes place in these Tulips during the four weeks that each flower is out. Some Tuhps fade early, but these two improve steadily. Another Tulip of great interest is the mahogany Dom Pedro, which I saw spoken well of in Country Life last year, and as a novelty it is well worth having. — (Dr.) R. C. LowTHER, Grange-over-Sands. School Shows. — As a result of a recent article of mine on the subject of school shows, I have had an interesting communication from the Chairman of the Grange School Board, Banffshire, who has initiated a show for the three schools under the Board somewhat on the lines of our own. The Grange Show was entirely confined to members of the Narcissus family. Essays and notes on the growth of the bulbs, and coloured and black-and- I do not expect for the plant from SEEDS OF CARALLUMA SIMONII. THE SILKY STRANDS ATTACHED TO EACH ARE VERY BEAUTIFUL AND FORM A READY MEANS OF DISTRIBUTION. made about Cacti. There must be many lovers of these curious plants, so I have pleasure in sending herewith a photograph that 1 have just had taken of the ripe seed of a succulent plant called Caralluma Simonii. The blooms are of a dark brownish colour and shaped like a star. The plant from which this seed was taken bloomed in 1912, and last year the pods were formed. These pods have just opened, revealing a dozen or so fine silken puffs, one of which I am sending you. Some of your readers may be interested in this picture, and I should be glad if you are able to use it. — Alfred Bentley, 27, Wards Road, Seven Kings, Essex. May-Flowering Tulips. — One of my late Tulip beds has proved of unusual interest this year, since a large number of the stems have carried four or three full-sized flovVers. These include Fashion (4), Jaune d'Qiuf (4), Inglescombe Pink (3), La MerveiUe (4), Ravcnswing (2), Globe of Fire (3), Fairy Queen (2), Calypso (2), &c. Nearly all the Fashion bulbs have three strong stems, the branch taking place above the leaves. I daresay this is quite common, but none of these white sketches of the flowers added interest and utility to the competition, and were adjuncts which may be brought in where circumstances permit. From correspondence between the masters of the schools and Mr. Pritchard, I cannot help feeling that the educational side is thrust rather too much down the children's throats. Overdone, it may have the diametrically opposite effect to that which I for one would wish these shows to have, viz., the fostering or the sowing a love of flowers for their own sake. I would not like a school show which is only the Black Currant jam for the powder. I think, too, it is better to have several sorts of flowers grown, and not only Daffodils. If it was Daffodils one year and Hyacinths the next, it would not be so bad ; but give me variety. — Joseph Jacob. Gentiana acaulis Sporting. — As on the occasion of the recent opening of our spring flower show at Munich I had the honour of presenting to one of the Royal Princesses a peculiar flower of Gentiana acaulis showing the true Bavarian colours, pure white and blue (lengthways divided), I was much interested in Mr. R. R. H. Hayes' (Keswick) note on the above subject, my sport will prove constant, which it sprang was gathered as a white-flowering variety, and it also flowered white last year with three or four flowers. On watching it this year it was found to have one flower of the normal blue, one quite white, excepting the green-speckled throat, and, lastly, that flower with the two shades together. 1 have not had the heart to disturb the plant, as we cannot congratulate ourselves that G. acaulis has satisfactorily established itself ; but I hope to find out yet whether all these three varieties come from the same plant. Following up my note in your issue for July 26, 1913, page 376, on " Gentiana vema in Grass," when I reported a first success of twenty-eight flowering plants from my annua) sowings, I may briefly state that this spring there were 114 such, besides innumer- able small seedling plants, and having scattered loz. of seeds (which means millions of grains) • last autumn, I hope I shall live to see the lovely sight of them flowering yet. — E. Heinrich. Fragrance in Sweet Peas. — As one who has grown Sweet Peas for a few years, and who has chosen the varieties recommended by the National Sweet Pea Society, as well as others of my own choice, I can, with regret, bear out what your correspondent B. W. Lewis says in The Garden of May 23, page 255, with regard to the loss of perfume in the newer Sweet Peas. But there is one Sweet Pea (which I grow for garden decora- tion and cutting) which stands out clear in front of all others in good points on my heavy soil. It is the strongest grower, and gives the largest bloom (excepting King Manoel) of a pleasing cdour, four on nearly every stem, which is very long, and last, but far from least, it possesses a most delicious perfume. It is the bicolor Mrs. Cuth- bertson.— H. P. B., Bristol. Too-Much-Alike Auriculas. — In response to " Taplow's " request for a list of alpine varieties, I beg to submit the names of a few selected from my stock of seventy different named kinds. These cover a wide range of colours, and have been in commerce for several years, and should not be expensive. If so, I would suggest to your corre- spondent that he joined one of the societies which make a speciality of this fascinating flower, and I think he will find the members ever ready to supply him with a few surplus plants. Gold centres : Chamoise, Charmer, Duke of York, Ettrick. General Buller, George Cadbury, J. F. Kew, Majestic, Muriel, Pluto, Unexpected and Violet Vanbrugh. Light centres : Admiration, Argus, J. T. Bennett-Pog, Blue Bell, Phyllis Douglas, Prince of Tyre, Thetis, Mildred Jay and Janet. I wish to state that this list includes some varieties which are not quite up to the standard required for show purposes, but have been included on account of their charming colours ; for instance, Admiration, a lovely shade of porcelain blue ; and Chamoise, deep apricot. As alpine varieties make numerous offsets, a good stock is soon attained. If yovrr correspondent only requires the plants for decorative purposes, he should obtain a packet of seeds from Mr. James Douglas or Messrs. Phillips and Taylor, and he would get a wonderful range of colouring ; but some patience is required, as it takes two or three years to obtain good flowering plants. Some of the brightest colours come pin-eyed, a seriops defect in the eye of a judge ; but a place can be found for them on the rockery or slightly shaded border. — Lancashire. [We are compc led lo hold over until next week other interesting correspondence on this subjec'. — Ed.1 May 30, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 279 Chair Cane for Sweet Peas. — The writer of an interesting uote in The Garden recently advocated tlie use of chair cane for training Sweet Peas. He said it costs 6d. a pound. I can only find prices running from is. 6d. a pound upwards. — E. P. Dean. The Double-Flowered Gorse. — Apart from the fact that when in bloom this is a really gorgeous shrub, it has also other highly meritorious features. The principal one is that it will thrive in dry, stony soils, even on hot banks where practically nothing else can be depended upon ; in fact, under such conditions it is far more floriferous than in a deeper and richer soil. One especial point to bear in mind is that the double-flowered Furze or Gorse very much resents transplanting ; hence it should be grown in pots till placed in its permanent quarters. Cuttings put in sandy soil in a shaded frame in August will soon root. — H. P. Primula Leddy Pilrig. — The hybrid Primula called Leddy Pilrig, which obtained a first-class certificate from the Royal Caledonian Horti- cultural Society at their spring show on April 29, is quite a good plant, and rather pleasing with its whorls of soft rosy flowers. It was raised at Pilrig House, Edinburgh, by Mr. Robertson, the gardener there, and its parentage is given as P. beesiana and P. bulleyana. Some good authori- ties are disposed to doubt the correctness of this, but the raiser has doubtless the best knowledge of the matter, although there are suggestions of the pulvernlenta " blood " in the appearance of the plant. The Primula has the foliage of such plants as P. pulverulenta, P. bulleyana and others, and looks as if it would prove a free grower and good bloomer. There are only a few plants in existence as yet ; but, as it is likely to increase well by division, it should soon be plentiful. — S. Arnott. CytiSUS Daisy Hill. — The note which appeared on page 241 of The Garden regarding the two beautiful Brooms (Cytisus prscox and C. albus) brought to my mind another very pretty variety which is not often seen, but one which, on account of its unique and distinctive character, deserves to be more largely planted than it is. C. Daisy Hill emanated from that well-known home oi liardy plants at Newry, Ireland, whence it takes its name. It is quite distinct in coloration from any other Brooms of my acquaintance, being a combination of yellow, rose and violet crimson, which must be seen to be fully appre- ciated. In every other respect it resembles the common yellow Broom, and is equally as hardy and floriferous. Those interested in these hand- some, easily grown shrubs and in search of some- thing novel should secure a plant or two of this variety, and I feel siure they would be delighted with the charming effect made by the rather unusual combination of colours. While on this subject I would call attention to another choice Cytisus, which flowers during the late summer and autumn, at which period its rich golden blossoms are much appreciated. This is C. elongatus, a neat, erect-growing shrub of great beauty, carrying graceful sprays of bloom from I J feet to 2 feet long. It grows equally as freely as the other Brooms, but is more neat and compact in habit. It flowers with lavish profusion and ripens its seeds freely, thus aft'ording a ready means of increasing the stock. Both of these shrubs last year flowered with great freedom in Mr. Brough's garden at Ochilview, Perth, standing out con- ■ spicuously among the comprehensive collection of choice shrubs grovro there, — W. L. Primula floribunda.— Since the advent of Primula kewensis, one sees very little of Primula floribunda, though it is, I thuik, so pretty and so continuous flowering that its merits ought on no account to be passed over. It is a native of the Himalayas, and has been grown in this country for fully thirty years. Grown from seeds, which is the best way of increase, it forms a rosette-like tuft of leaves, which soon produces several offsets. The flower-stems, which in good examples are numerous, reach a height of about nine inches, and bear small, bright golden yellow flowers disposed in whorls. Fresh spikes are continually pushed up, so that its season of blooming is a very lengthened one. There is a variety — Isabellina — in which the flowers are of a paler yellow than those of the type, but, to my mind at least, it is much less effective. Seed of P. floribunda ripens freely, and from this young plants should be raised, as those obtained from division are much less satis- factory. Apart from its own intrinsic merit, P. floribunda is of especial interest as being one of the reputed parents of P. kewensis, which originated as an accidental seedling. — H. H. Our Native Flowers. — It is very interesting to note how much alike our native flowers are, even in widely separated districts. I was forcibly struck with this when reading in The Garden for May 9 about the fine display of Furze and Marsh Marigolds near Bournemouth. Here, in South Ayrshire, we have had very fine shows of both the above-mentioned plants during the past fortnight, and the bright blossoms still continve to beautify the landscape. Another shrub which is very abundant in this district is the Sloe, or Blackthorn, and this has been flowering with lavish profusion this spring, great drifts of snowy blossoms being in evidence everywhere, the purity of the blossoms being thrown into bold relief by the black stems of the shrubs. I have never seen such a profusion of the woodland Wind- flower (Anemone uemorosa) as is to be found in this locality. Myriads of the lovely starry blossoms are met with everywhere, in sun or shade, just as numerous as the Daisies in field and glade. The blue Wood Hyacinth is now opening its drooping blue bells in the woods ; in many places, so thickly are they crowded together that nothing else can grow. The Golden King-cup (Caltha palustris) is particularly robust this year, probably because it has had no lack of moisture, Sulphvr Primroses and blue Forget-me-nots bestud the hedgerows and brighten the roadsides with their dainty blossoms, associated with the modest little Dog Violet {Viola canina). With such a wealth of beautiful gems among our native flora, why should travellers risk their lives amid the Swiss glaciers or Italian earthquakes to see flowers no prettier and scenery no grander than our own ? — W. L., South Ayrshire. "THE GARDEN" PLANNING AND PLANTING COM- PETITION. Our competition for planning and plantmg the little garden has created widespread interest, and, judging by the number of letters we have received, there is a very great demand for good designs for little gardens. Full particulars of the competition were published in our issue of the i8th inst. ; but for the benefit of those who may not have seen that issue we may briefly state that we are offering cash prizes of the total value of £33 I2S,, as well as a number of book prizes, for the best designs sent in. On page IV. of this issue we insert the coupon that must be sent with four penny stamps to cover cost and postage of the sheets on which the outline plans are printed, and on which the designs must be drawn. A number of questions have been raised relating to the competition, and, as we stated in our issue of May 18, these questions will be fully answered in our next number. Those who have not seen the rules and conditions govern- ing this competition may secure them by applying to The Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C, and enclosing I id. in stamps to cover cost of postage. THE JAPANESE PLUM AMERICA. IN FORTHCOMING EVENTS. June 2. — Scottish Horticultural Association Meeting, June 3, — -Royal Horticultural Society's Exhibi- tion. June 4, — National Hardy Plant Society's Show at the Royal Horticultural Society's Hall, Linnean Society Meeting. June 5, — Dundee Horticultural Association Meeting. June 6. — Society Frangaise d'Horticulture de Londres Meeting. June 8. — United Horticultural Benefit and Provident Society's Committee Meeting. YOUR reference to the Japanese Plum (Prunus triflora) in April 18 issue, page 195, and the pessimistic report of its value as a fruit tree, lead me to say that this species has had a striking and peculiar career in America, It came conspicuously into public notice about twenty-five years ago, at which time a large number of varieties were distributed by American nursery- men. Some of these were direct importations from Japan, others were seedlings accidentally picked up in America, while a few were artificial crosses made by gardeners here. For a time it seemed that these Japanese Plums wotild super- sede all others in our commercial orchards, and even in the gardens of amateurs. Some ten or fifteen varieties became very popular and were planted everywhere. In some cases these did prove a commercial success, at least for the time being. They proved at least to have many valuable qualities combined with certain distinct defects. They are easily propagated, grow rapidly in the nursery, are easily transplanted to the orchard, come quickly into bearing, and some of the varieties yield enormously. They are excellent for preserv- ing, jelly making, &c., and being of good size and attractive colour, sell fairly well in the open market. The trees are, unfortunately, short-lived and subject to the attacks of insects and diseases. Many of the varieties which at first promised well have in the long run proved worthless. So many disappointments have come from planting the different varieties that the popu- larity of this species has now greatly waned. In the meantime the Japanese Plum has been extensively used in hybridising. It crosses very readily with other species — much more readily than the common garden Plum (Prunus domestica). In the Central States, where Plums of native American species are extensively grown, these hybrids have arisen in large numbers. Several 280 THE GARDEN. [May 30, 1914. of these hybrids, especially those between P. triflora and P, hortulaua, have shown much value and are being propagated and cultivated on a considerable scale. It was also found that P. triflora would cross readily with P. Simonii, and that the offspring was usually a conspicuously fine fruit. Varieties of this cross nearly always have large fruits of solid flesh, which handle well in the market, though the quality is usually inferior. Several of these varieties were put on the market and widely distributed by the nurserymen. For a time it seemed that they would achieve a com- mercial career, but at present they have largely disappeared. There is hardly a more interesting chapter anywhere in the history of pomology than the story of the Japanese Plums in America. They have had a wide and varied develop- ment, all the events of which have taken place so recently that the facts are well known to nearly all horticulturists now living. F. A. Waugh. Mnssaclnisells Agriciillityal College. are without farina. The robust scape rises well above the leaves, and bears an umbel of from six to ten flowers of a purple colour. It occurs in the Kurile Islands, and also extends into the Aleutian and PribUof Islands. It is desirable that this plant should take the place which the typical P. nivalis fails to fill properly in our gardens. P. japonica (A. Gray). — Described by Asa Gray as far back as 1857, it was not until 1871 that this now indispensable Primula was introduced into our British gardens through the enterprise of Mr. William Bull. It is impossible to over- praise this handsome plant, whose tiers of whorled flowers arc so cffecti\'e in tlic garden. It is HARDY JAPANESE PRIMULAS. J.APAN has made an un- expectedly small contri- bution to the hardy Primulas which are in cultivation, and, even if we include those which are yet to be brought to our gardens, the known species and their forms are wonderfully few •in number. Only eleven species are native, eight of them endemic. Coimting microforms which are con- sidered distinct enough to receive separate names, there are, in all, some fourteen distinct named Japanese Primulas, although, as usual, all botanists are not pre- pared to accept this enumeration. Of those which are in cultiva- tion, the pride of place must be given to two species, both of which have become highly important garden plants. These are Primula japonica and Primula Sieboldii, the latter often known as P. cortusoides amcena, though not a form of P. cortusoides of Linnaeus, which is not Japanese. No fewer than eight sections of Professor Bayley Balfour's arrange- ment of the Primula species are represented in the few Japanese Primulas. Taking in alphabetical order, and dealing with P. Sieboldii imder its proper name, we come first to Primula eximia (Greene). — This belongs to the nivalis section, one containing many charming Primulas, though represented in Japan solely by this, which is a microform of P. nivalis (Pallas). It is a sturdy, robust little plant, with flowers of a good size when compared with the plant itself. The authority for the name is Greene, in " Pittonia," III. (1897), page 251. This Primula is glabrous and has oblanceolate or oblong spoon-shaped leaves, which are entire or minutely crenated, aciutf or obtuse, and on short petioles. They THE WHITE-FLOVVERED JAPANESE PRIMULA : P. JAPONICA ALBA THIS LIKES MOIST SOIL AND SEMI-SHADE. naturalised in many places in the more open woods and by the sides of streams and ponds, and is one of the most valuable of all the hardy Primulas. A large colony in flower is a sight well worth seeing. It varies considerably in colourmg, but the dark purple form is still the best. The colours range from deep purple to pink, rose, and almost pure white, though in the purest varieties I have seen there is always a coloured ring round the eye. The so-called improved varieties are no improvement. I have seen hybrids of P. japonica crossed vrith P. Bulley- ana, but these are of no use, being simply both parents practically spoilt — P. japonica with only a slight trace of P. Bulleyana. It is a native of Central and Northern Honto, Yezo, and is also cultivated in Japanese gardens. It is minecessary to give cultural directions, as it will thrive almost anywhere, although preferring a moist soil and a shaded or semi-shaded position. II comes freely from seeds. P. Kisoana (Miq.). — Why this has not been in cultivation in this country is rather a mystery. It has been grown in Japanese gardens for more than 200 years. Pax refers it to the section Fallaces, but undoubtedly Professor Bayley Balfour is correct in placing it among the Cortu- soides. It has petiolate leaves, which are rounded, heart-shaped, also crenate or lobed, while the whole plant is practically villous- pubescent. The scape bears from two to five flowers of a deep rose colour. It should prove quite hardy in this country. A native of South-West Japan. P. modesta (Bisset et Moore). — Primula farinosa is represented in Japan by two plants, although that known as P. Faurieae, Francli., is really only a xeromorph of the above, which is, therefore, sufficient to notice at present. Pax con- siders P. modesta only a sub- species of P. farinosa, which it closely resembles ; but the farina is golden instead of silvery. It is as hardy as P. farinosa or P. frondosa, and loves a moist situation. The flowers are purplish. From Yezo to Shikoku, and introduced to cultivation in igii by the Royal Botanic Gardens, Edinburgli. P. Reinii (Franch. et Sav.).— Although not very widely known, the beautiful little Primula Reinii of the Fallaces section of Pax and the Reinii of Balfour has been in cultivation for some years. Its hardiness has not been fully tested, but it deserves a trial at the hands of lovers of the race. It has petio- late, hairy foliage, rounded or kidney-shaped, cordate at the basi', with scapes a little longer than the leaves, and bearing an umbel of from two to six pale violet flowers, which are large for the size of the plant. With me this Primula is not liardy in the open, but 1 can manage it in a cold frame. The section Reinii is marked by the petiolate - rounded leaves, small calyces and cylindrical capsules, protruding beyond the calyx. P. Sieboldii (E. Morren). — A great deal of confusion exists in gardens regarding the name of this plant. It is frequently sold as P. cortu- soides or as P. c. amcena. P. cortusoides, as already mentioned, is not Japanese, but Siberian, and extends in Nature from the Urals to the Altai. This and P. saxatilis have adpressed calyx segments, while those of P. Sieboldii are patent. P. Sieboldii has been in cultiva'tion in Japan for very many years, and it was known to the botanists of Europe in 1838, when it was described under the name of P. cortusoides variety patens, Turcz., by Turczaninow. In 1873 a cultivated plant was described by Morren imder the present name May 30, tgt4.] THE GARDEN. 281 of p. Sieboldii. It had been yrown m British gardens before that time, but the date of its intro- duction is doubtful. It was, however, sent from Japan to Messrs. James Veitch and Sons by their collector, Mr. I. G. Veitch, in 1861, under the name of P. cortusoides. Its natural liabitat appears to be in moist meadows, but it is best known as a cultivated plant. Its flowers vary greatly, not only in colour, but also in size and form. The colours range from white to rose and purple, and the shape of the blooms is extremely varied, some being rounded and others deeply lobed. It is an easy species to cultivate, but is sometimes lost in winter from the dormant crowns being over- looked when the garden is being cultivated. It is generally hardy. There are numerous garden varieties of P. Sieboldii. Other Japanese species of Primulas are P. JesoEuia, Miq., an unintroduced species allied in appearance and in its botanical features to the other Primulas of the Geranioides section. It is re- ported to be of little attractive- ness. Primula tosaensis, Yatabe, of the Reinii section, will hardly prove hardy in this country. Some of the Japanese Cuneifolia section, com- prising P. cuneifolia, P. hakusanensis, Franch. ; P. heterodonta, Franch. ; and P. nipponica, Yatabe, are in cultivation. P. macrocarpa, Maxim., is of purely botanical interest. P. Miyabeana (Ito et Kawakana) is from F'ormosa and close to P. japonica, but has not been intro- duced here. John Macwatt. Morclands, Duns. HARDY FLOWERS VASES. FOR SOME USEFUL HINTS. THERE is a feeling against hardy flowers for vase furnishing, for which there is no good reason. Over and over again I have been assured that border flowers and wild flowers are wanting in long-standing properties, and that tlie tender foliage and flo^vers of shrubs and trees are equally singularly unsatisfactory in that respt ct. I use all manner of things so long as they are pretty, and by taking a few precautions have no cause to join in the cry against any of these. I have been using the loveliest twigs and branch'.ets of Morello Cherries, Prunus Pissardii, white-flowered Transcendant Crab and Tower of Glamis Apple, as Lay them in a basket for half an hour and after- wards let them lie on a table till the time to arrange them comes, and it is no wonder that they last for only a short time, and sometimes fail to ever look up or assume their pristine brightness. So impor- tant is it that some kinds be placed in water that it is worth while to carry a pail of water and immerse the stems in it as soon as they are cut. Wild flowers need much the same treatment ; at any rate, they should be carried home without delay and the stems plunged into water, preferably warm water, tiU they can be arranged. Some flowers require to be plunged or floated entirely in water. Of such are the beautiful Helleborus species, so useful in spring. Improperly treated, these droop at once. In even a few hours they become eyesores ; whereas, when thrown into a tank of water and left at least twelve liours till the cells are surcharged, tliey last A BEAUTIFUL HABERLEA. U.N'TIL a few years ago only one Haberlea was known to cultivation, viz., H. rhodopensis, native of the Rhodope Mountains. This plant the writer has seen growing in large patches, mingled with the pure white form, in cool, shady places near to the Shipka Pass in Bulgaria. It is an exquisite plant, and the flowers resemble those of the StreptocarpuE, to which it is related, for both plants belong to the Natural Order Gesneraceoe. Ramondias, however, are much closer relatives to the Haberleas, and they succeed under similar condi- tions, viz., on shady banks, packed between rocks and given a fairly leafy compost. The new Haberlea named Ferdinandii-Coburgii is a grand acquisition to the genus, and it was deservedly granted an award of merit by the Royal Horti- cultural Society when shown in the early summer of igii by Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, Kent. .As may be seen in the accompanying illustration, it has medium-sized, round leaves, and a very free- flowering habit. The flowers arc of a bright rosy colour tinged with pale purple blue and deeply spotted in the throat. It is hardy, and worthy of a place in those gardens where littie-known alpines are cherished. In many gardens Haberleas and Ramondias are grown with a iair amount of success between vertical rocks. In nature it is supposed that the rosettes of leaves which lie flat against the rocks aie thus protected against injury by falling debris from above. C Q. HABERLE.\ FERDINANDII-COBURGII, FLOWERS BRIGHT ROSY BLUE. well as of Apples of various shades of pink, though I find the pretty Pyrus floribunda rather fugacious and the buds prettier than the flowers. Deutzias are now in, Banksia Roses in long sulphur ropes, and Spiraea van Houttei and others, with bronze-leaved Oaks and thinnings of coloured Rose shoots. Exceedingly beautiful are the single Tree Pceonies, which range in colour from white to crimson and salmon-tinted flowers of exquisite beauty. These and many others last well if, when cut, they are with the least possible delay plunged deeply into water. But what usually occurs is to carry them about or lay them down long enough for the sap to have evaporated so much that incipient wither- ing sets in, after which the chance of the flowers and foliage lasting is reduced to the limit. Exactly the same thing happens with border flowers. a week. I have known them to stand in a cold room for a fortnight if given a second immersion. There is yet another important point to be observed in selecting border flowers ; that is their age. I once used a quantity of Michaehnas Daisies to decorate a chiurch, and was warned that they would not stand over the Sunday. The lady who had gained this experience with Asters had forgotten to choose young flowers or those that had not been fertilised by insects, and so it happened that those she deprecated the use of, being yoimg, stood perfectly, thougli they had the extra compensation of having been plunged in water for hours after picking. The advantage of using only young flowers has fre- quently been noticed, and with bulbous plants it is usually carried out. R, P, Brothersion, 282 THE GARDEN. [May 30, iql4 ROSE-GROWING IN TOWN GARDENS. NOTES ON EXHIBITING. Shading. — Rose shades are usually made of material that is impervious to light, but it is a mistake to imagine that all blooms will improve in colour from being kept in the dark. Many varieties will only attain their full colouring under the direct rays of the sun. Generally these are in the Tea class, or closely allied to it, Roses which have sprung from natives of a warmer cUme. They are impatient of wet and frequently slow in opening, so that they need protection rather than shading. Excess of sunshine will completely spoil the colour of many other kinds, such, for instance, as some of the Penietiana type, those of delicate shades of yellow and pink, and most of the red Roses, lu the case of these it is well to supplement the shades by gum- ming tissue paper round the rims, allowing it to project a few inches underneath. A great deal may be done with the shades to retard a Rose's development, often a matter of importance at show-time ; but in judging beforehand the length of time a bloom will take to ex- pand, the exhibitor has one of his hardest tasks, and this can bi- learned only by studying the habits of each individual kind, noting whether it is slow or quick in imfolding its petals, and then, as often as not, a change in the weather will upset all one's calculations. As the blooms ex- pand, greater care in spraying becomes necessary. Insecticides should be avoided temporarily and green fly removed by hand. On warm evenings syringing over- head with lukewarm water is very beneficial, but this is not advisable when the weather is cold. The hoe must be kept constantly at work, and this should always be the Rose-grower's chief implement. Tying and Dressing the Blooms. In the dressing of the blooms many points may be gained or lost, and the would-be exhibitor should prac- tise it as much as possible soine time in advance of the exhibition. The first step is to tie the flowers round the centre with white wool, the kind that is known as double Berlin being the best for this purpose. It should be cut into lengths of about nine inches, and the fastening is done by a double twist of the wool, which prevents it from slipping and allows of it being loosened when neces- sary. On no accotmt should it be knotted. Generally speaking, it is of no use to keep a bloom tied for more than three or four days ; but this depends upon the variety and the weather. In a hot spell many Roses will fly open and become useless in three days, which during a cooler period might often be kept in good form for a day or so longer. Full flowers may sometimes be restrained for a week. The more backward blooms will be tied only a day or two before the show, and most of GOOD ROSES WITH FULL FLOWERS. w HILE it must generally Ik' admitted that a large majority of the newer Roses are of very wonderful colouring, and are most beautiful from an artistic point of view, it is also a fact [primula these will assutne a better and more natural shape , CQM E if the guard petals are allowed to fall before the ' ties are placed in position round the second row of petals. Others it may not be necessar\' to tie at all, but these will be slow-opening kinds which are just caught right and can be trusted not to " fly." Experience is the best guide, and the grower should study his Roses and practise with them before the show-time arrives. The actual dressing of the blooms is performed on the show bench after the tie is removed, the last thing before I that a great many of them are what one might the judging. call " thin " in build ; that is to say, the petals It ought to be done with a large camel-hair brush, are few in number. These thin Roses are very and should consist mainly in arranging the outer useful when'used for massing in large beds, where row of petals. These ought to be gently pushed ' the individual bloom is not of so much accomit as is the general effect produced by the mass, and they are also very lovely in the bud stage ; but I have found that there are many Rose fanciers, especially among those with limited space at their disposal, who will have nothing to do with this class of Rose, and will only cultivate those varieties which might be termed " solid." A bloom of one of these more double Roses will keep shapely for a very much longer period than the thin type, either on the bush or when cut. To search through Rose catalogues in quest of these varieties with good lasting qualities is not only a long and tedious task, but often ends in utter failure, growers being disappointed to find that many a so-called double Rose turns out to be far from " solid." Such searchers will, I hope, find the following list helpful and reliable. All the varieties men- tioned are good garden Roses and strong growers. Mrs. Foley Hobbs, one of the liiust recently introduced Teas, bears large and perfectly formed flowers of delicate ivory wliito, and is very free both in growth and flowering. Molly Sharman Crawford (T.) i> m the bud a delicate oau dc nil white, and pure white in the full bloom. A good upriglit grower with beautiful foliage. Mayflower (H.T.) is one of the best of the newer cream Roses, the pink tints suffusing the petals giving it a charming effect. Excellenz M. Schmidt Metzler is a grand addition to the Hybrid Teas, the blooms being of wonderful size and quality. Entente Cordiale (Pernet-Ducher, H.T.) is a lovely creamy white, tinted with carmine. It is rather small in growth, but quite liardy and remarkably free-flowering. Wm. R. Smith is a vigorous-growing Tea ol great beauty. It is creamy white, tinted with pink and violet. Mrs. Arthur Munt (H.T.) is very similar to the foregoing, but a little deeper in colour, especially in the autumn, when it is often quite a deep peach. Mrs. Harold Brocklebanls (H.T.) is a most persistent bloomer of good upright habit. The blooms are creamy white, the outer petals tinted FARINOSA GROUPED IN THE ROCK GARDEN SHOWN BY MR. J. WOOD AT CHELSEA LAST WEEK. back, but on no account should they be turned snow white inside out in an endeavour to keep them open, as is sometimes done. This is " overdressing," and should disqualify a bloom. The arrangement of the boxes must be carefully thought out, care being taken to afford as much contrast as possible by keeping apart Roses of similar colouring. Dark reds are always valuable, and these are usually scarce ; but one or more should be included if possible, even if of slightly smaller size than others that are available. The largest blooms must be in the back row, the smallest in front. As many spare blooms as possible should be taken, so that those which show a split centre may be discarded. P. L. Goddard. May 30, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 28fi salmon rose and the centre buff. One ol the best garden Roses. Alexander Hill Gray (T.) is the best of the newer yellow Teas, being most prolific and a tine grower. The rich lemon yellow flowers deepen as they expand. i Natalie Bottner (H.T.), called by some the Yellow' Druschki, is, I am glad to say, much j making it a very striking Woom fuller than its namesake. The soft creamy blooms , Essex. are very pleasing, but open badly in damp weather. ] ^_^^^^^_^^^_^_ Miss Alice de Rothschild (T.) is well described as a dwarf Marechal Niel, the deep citron yellow blooms being very similar to that old favourite Rose. Sunburst has, since its introduction in 1912, won a great name for itself. In colour it is George Dickson (H.T.) is a truly marvellous Rose. The velvety black crimson blooms are of immense size and finely built. Its only fault is that it hangs its head. Earl of Gosford (H.T.) is in general appearance not unlike the old favourite Victor Hugo, the heavy black shadings on the crimson ground W. A. E. NOTES ON VIBURNUMS. The Japanese Snowball Tree (Viburnum plicatum) is now flowering to perfection in many Enghsh gardens. A large bush clothed with clusters of variable, some blooms being very light cadmium ! white flowers resembling those of the Guelder Rose yellow, while others are deep orange yellow, 1 is indeed a wonderful sight. It is easily one of cither shade being very beautiful. The blooms are exceedingly long. Frau Oberhofgartner Piecq (H.T.) is a new yellow Rose of great merit, and as an exhibition flower will be sure to make good headway, the golden yellow Hybrid Teas being hard to find. Duchess of Normandy (H.T.) is a salmon flesh sport of Dean Hole, and as an all-round Rose should mn as good a reputation as its forbear. Mrs. Geo. Shawyer is a fine, vigorous Hybrid Tea of great value. The clear rose-colotured flowers, although very large and full, are carried on erect stems. Margaret (H.T.) should be i:; every Rose-lover's garden, for the clear soft pink flowers are perfect in every way and produced in profu- sion. It is an ideal town Rose. [We find this mildews badly. — Ed.] Desdemona (H.T.) is a decided advance in the light pink section, the rosy opaque flowers being very large and full. Countess of Shaftesbury (H.T.) is, I think, one of the most lovely pink Roses. The exquisitely formed silver pink blooms are invaluable for cutting, and are produced in abundance the season through. Duchess of Westminster, a clear madder rose, sometimes attains to a remarkable size of bloom, and is a very distinct novelty. St. Helena (H.T.), besides being of good size and form, is sweetly scented. The upright flowers are pink on a cream ground, and ire very handsome. Lady Alice Stanley (H.T.) is a grand bedding variety. The coral rose blooms are produced in clusters, but each is of large size and good shape. Mrs. Wallace H. Rowe (H.T.) is of very novel and distinct colouring, being a peculiar mauve, but very pretty. Jonkheer J. L. Mock (H.T.) is a finely built Rose with very high centre. The petals outside are bright cherry red, inside silvery white, and when true to colour it is most effective ; but, unfortunately, it often comes very dull, and is, in fact, quite disagreeable. THE BEST CONIFERS FOR LAWNS. I N the pure air of the country, where soil and climatic conditions are alike favourable for the growth of conifers, a number o' species may be included among the most useful trees for lawn specimens. They grow vigorously, form shapely plants, and the leaves of the evergreen kinds are attrac- tive throughout the year. Ideal conditions for conifers are found in the South and West Counties of England, throughout Wales, the greater part of Scotland, and Ireland. Anywhere, in fad, where the ground is naturally moist and climulic conditions are on the moist side and tlie atmo- sphere is pure, they may be expected to succeed. VIBURNUM RHYTIDOPHYLLUM, RARE HARDY SHRUB FROM GUELDER ROSE FAMILY IT BELONGS TO THE the six most beautiful shrubs for English gardens. There are other delightful members of this family, and of them our native Wayfaring Tree is one of the most popular. It is often seen in the wild state scattered here and there on the outskirts of the woodland or as a roadside shrub. It is common in our hedge- rows, but none the less beautiful, and grows freely in almost any soil, especially on hillisdes overlying chalk. From Central China comes the little-known Viburnum rhytidophyllum, destined to be a very popular wall shrub in the course of time. The creamy white flowers are borne in large heads during May. The illustration on this page shows a remarkably fine plant flowering freely on a G. C. Waud (H.T.) is a most brilliant Rose, south wall at Kew. In the same garden it has been a glowing orange vermilion, and its colour is very i grown in open beds, but here the result is not lasting. I nearly so satisfactory. But there are places where the conditions are less favourable, and still good coniferous trees are grown, as may be seen in the drier parts of the Eastern Counties. The most imsatisfactory con- ditions are impure atmosphere and very heavy and chalky soils. Anyone who is intimate with the climatic conditions of such counties as Devon- shire and Perthshire will recognise at once the peculiarities of climate which tend to produce the best conifers. A mature Cedar of Lebanon is always recognised as a decided asset to a large garden, especially when the garden surrounds an ancient house ; but, unfortunately, such trees have sometimes been placed in positions where they interfere with the building or are crowded by other trees. This being the case, anyone who contemplates planting such a wide-spreading tree should ascertain first that it will have sufficient room to develop to its 284 THE GARDEN. (Way 30, 1914. PRIMULA SECUXDIFLORA, A BEAUTIFUL XHW HARDY SPECIES FROM CHINA. IT HAS WINE-RED ILOWFRS. fullest extent without crowding other subjects. But planters would be well advised to select the glaucous variety of the Atlas Cedar (Cedrus atlantica glauca) in preference to the Lebanon Cedar, for it is a decidedly more beautiful tree, especially when young. The Deodar (C. Deodara), too, is a suitable tree to plant in the Southern Counties, but is generally less hardy than the other kinds. The Incense Cedar (Libocedrus decurrens) is another decorative tree. Its beauty, however, plenty of room for development. Its irregular outline fits it better for garden decoration than the more formal, conical habit of S. gigantea. .A. position for the latter tree needs selecting with con- siderable care. As a rule, a sheltered corner somewhat apart from the lawn is more suitable than a conspicuous posi- tion. The Umbrella Pine of Japan (Sriadopitys verti- cillata) is well fitted for a position where space is limited, for it grows less rapidly than many other kinds and takes many years in at- taining a height of 20 feet. Its' deep green, fiat leaves are arranged after the fashion of the ribs of an umbrella ; lienee tlie common name. Pseudolarix Kaempferi is a rare liX'c witli dtcidnuus leaves. Its light green fuIiagjL' is coi> spic.uous through- out the summer, but is most attrac- tive during the autumn, for at that period it turns to For this reason it is called the .\i;othcr handsome deciduous a golden colour. Golden Larch, conifer is found in The Maidenhair Tree (Ginkgo biloba). Thib grows quite 70 feet high, and is easily recognised by reason of its wide, flat leaves, which bear a resemblance to a gigantic pinnule of a Maidenhair Fern. Saxegothea conspicua is only suitable for the warmer parts of the coimtry, but in the few places where it thrives it forms a remarkably hand- centres in its stiff, columnar habit. It takes up some plant. Of very graceful outline, the branches little room, but its full beauty can only be seen I are well clothed with Yew-Uke leaves, which are when it stands quite clear of other trees. It may 1 less sombre in appearance than those of the common attain a height of 40 feet or 50 feet. | Yew. The Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga Douglasii) j Cupressus lawsoniana forms a beautiful tree and its glaucous-leaved form grow into majestic when placed in an open position, while many of trees 70 feet to 80 feet or 100 feet high, furnished witli branches from base to summit, in those places where suitable conditions prevail. But they must have shelter, otherwise their tops are liable to be broken. The bottom or lower slopes of a moderately deep valley often offer an ideal home. Such trees must be given ample space, for they arc only seen at their best when standing quite clear of other vegetation. The Redwood of California (Sequoia semper- virens) is another tree which is only seen at its best when planted in a sheltered situation with its varieties are equally, if not more, attractive. Good ones are glauca. Silver Queen, intertexta, gracilis aurea and lutea, The juvenile or plumosa forms of C. pisifera are also very beautiful, plumosa aurea and sulphurea being very suitable for small gardens. The true Cypresses, such as Cupressus sempervirens, C. lusitanica, C. macrocarpa and other kinds, are all fine trees when at their best, but they are only suitable for the warmer counties. Thuya plicata, or T. gigantea as it is often called, usually grows into a shapely specimen, althougli there i» a tendency for the branches to become thin about the top. T. orientalis, on the other hand, forms a dense bush or tree up to 20 feet or more high. The best of the Hemlock Spruces for general planting is Tsuga mertensiana. It is of vigorous habit and graceful outline, and succeeds throughout the country. T. pattoniana and T. brunoniana are also very beautiful trees, but their culture must be restricted to the warmer counties. Among the Spruces, the blue or glaucous leaved form of Picea pungens is one of the most beautiful. It is quite hardy, but is sometimes attacked by a leaf-castinj; disease. Other decorative Spruces are P. Omorica and P. Morinda, The Firs or Abies offer many representatives. A. amabilis iuid .V, nobilis are very showy when at their best, but they are subject to a disfiguring disease which frequently cripples them to a serious extent. A. lowiana, A. concolor, A. brachy- phylla and A. Pinsapo are all decorative kinds. .^mong the Pines, Pinus Pinea, P. excelsa, I'. Cembra, P. Coulteri and P. ponderosa may be selected as a representative set. D. VIOLA GRACILIS BLUEJACKET. Bluejacket is the deep blue form of Viola gracilis, differing from the purple blossoms of the typical gracilis in a truly delightful manner. The flowers are, if anything, even smaller than gracihs, being idenlical in size and in habit of growth to the exquisite little sulphur yellow Marjorie, which is becoming such a favourite garden subject. The deep blue of Bluejacket contrasts exquisitely with either Marjorie or Golden Fleece (a deeper yellow form), and as it produces its flowers just as prcfurely, there is no reason why it should not bo : s freely used as the type. We use it in quantity here in the gardens at Holland House and like it immensely, and purpose raising a large stock for spring bedding as well as for further decorative effects on the slopes of the rock garden. Such floriferousness, allied with the 4warf tiny foliage and the large Violet -like blossoms, combine to make Bluejacket an ideal spring flower. It is truly perpetual ; summer drought has no terrors for it, for plants burnt down to the ground- level in a dry season will come up fresh and green with the early rains and re-cstabbsh themselves in readiness for another flowering season. PKIMULA JAPONICA SANGUINEA. The true sanguinea variety of Primula japonica seems even now to be a somewhat scarce plant in gardens. At its best it is fully equal to the grand P. pulverulenta for effect. It is not quite so graceful as P. pulverulenta, but the colotiring is so rich and brilliant that it would be well if this sterhng Primula was grown in very large quantities. Even if only a smaU grouping is secured for a water-side effect or for a cool spot elsewhere in the garden, sanguinea will prove a very attractive subject. It would be a good tliiug for the popularity of the best forms of P. japonica if all the poorer and mottled varieties and seedhngs were entirely swept out of gardens, leaving a clear field for the superior selected self colours. If one could ensure that the best pink, rose, scarlet- red, and crimson shades were selected and per- petuated and all th« inferior forms discarded, then sanguinea and the other rich forms of japonica would rise to a higher level in garden appreciation, and we should get more of the beautiful Primula colour drifts which are such an acquisition to the informal garden. Clacton-on-Sca. 1'. S. Havwaku. May 30, 1914] THE GARDEN. 285 NEW AND RARE PLANTS AT THE CHELSEA SHOW. FIRST-CLASS CERTIFICATE. Adiantum grossum. — A handsome cvergieen sub-erect species from Tropical America, which, comparatively, might be refeixed to A. niacro- phylla, with much more rounded pinnae. The exhibited example was nearly two feet high, displaying vigour and freedom of growth. From Messrs. H. B. May and Sons, Edmonton. AWARDS OF MERIT. Platycerium Cordreyi. — By reason of the ■rarity of garden forms of this genus, apart from the intrinsic merit of the variety, this would appear to have deserved " first-class " rank, an honour probably yet in store. It has been evolved from P. Alcicome, the hoary fronds of 2 feet or more in length considerably ornamented by the deep fingered lobes at their apices. We regard it as an acquisition as well as an addition to the Fern tribe. Pteris flabellata pliimosa. — This, if not of the plumose density of some of the Nephrolepises, is at least a remarkable variation, and if sporting should follow, might prove invaluable to the gardener and decorator. These came from Messrs. H. B. May and Sons, Edmonton. Calceolaria Stewartii. — This is a golden yellow flowered variety, its outstanding features freedom of blossoming and the hall-mark of general utility. As exhibited, the plants were not more than r foot high, the pouches of comparatively large size. From Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Chelsea. Adiantum gloriosum Lemkesii. — Obviously a Farleyense form with more crested pinns, the mass of young fronds rising from the centre of the plant being coloured a warm reddish tone. A graceful and beautiful variety, of which a nice group was on view. Shown by Messrs. Lemkes and Sons, Alphen, Holland. Campanula tomentosa Maud Landale.~A pretty variety of this biennial Bell-flower, the bluish erect bells appearing from the axils of woolly stems and leaves. Shown by Miss Maud Landa'e, Limpsfield. Begonia Lady Carew. — A double-flowered, tuberous-rooted variety, having rose - coloured flowers in huge rosettes of 6 inches or so across. The shade of colour is very bright and effective. From Messrs. Blackmore and Langdon, Bath. Primula secundiflora. — A remarkably beautiful novelty discovered by Mr. Forrest when collecting in China for Messrs. Bees. It was found on the Lichiang Range at an altitude of some 13,000 feet, and the photographs taken by Mr. Forrest on the spot depict a plant of considerable freedom of flowering. Botanists look upon it as identical with P. vittata, but it is quite distinct from the plant usually recognised as such, and vastly superior. For gardening purposes and to give our readers an idea of the plant, it might not inaptly be com- pared to a red-flowered P. sikkimensis, the colour a rich wine red. It is a moisture-loving plant. Shown by Messrs. Bees, Liverpool. See illustration on page 284. Oxalis adenopbylla. — This charming species, with many-lobed, glaucous leaves and rose- coloured flowers, was shown by Messrs. Bees, Liverpool, and Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston. It is one of the choicest of rock garden plants, meriting all care. Ptnguicula reuteriana. — A dehghtful novelty from the Alps of Dauphin y. The peduncles are 4 inches or so high, one-flowered, the rosy pink lined flowers pretty in the extreme. From Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, Kent. Carnation Scarlet Carola. This is a counter- part of the original crimson variety in all save colour, which is self-descriptive. It is a bold and striking variety. From Mr. C. Engelraann, Saffron Walden. Iris Gold Crest (I. pallida x I. Cengiaiti). — The grr iter leaning of the variety is towards the first -named parent, the flowers some- what modified in size and more compactly built. The colour, a bright, lustrous violet blue, is very fine ; the gold beard or crest, which justifies to some extent the name, very pronounced. Raised and exhibited by Mr. W. Rickarton Dykes, Charterhouse, Godalraing. See illustration be!ow. Clematis Empress of India. — .A very beautiful addition to the race. The handsome flowers are coloured a rosy mauve with lilac shading. Doubt- less in the open the richer colour would be enhanced. From Messrs. George Jackman and Son?, Woking. Telopea speciosis- sima (Waratah). — .\ h,andsome inflores- cence of this rarely seen .Australian shrub was shown by the Rev. A. T. Boscawen, Ludgvan Rectory, Long Rock, Corn wall. The flowers, arranged in a dense, conical head, are tubular and coloured a reddish scarlet, the crenated leaves not unlike those of Ardisia crenulata, but longer and even more coriaceous and shin- ing. Its flowering in this country is some- what rare. A cultural commendation was also awarded to the exhibitor. Pittosporum Mayi Silver Queen was exhibited by the Donard Nursery Company, Newcastle, County Down. It is a pretty variety, with silvery variegated foliage shown to ad- vantage against the almost black, wiry stems. ' Charlesworth and Co., Hayward's Heath ; Miltonia vexillaria Solum and Miltonia vexillaria Laelia Sander, both shown by Messrs. Sander and Sons, St. Albans ; Laslio-Cattleya Medina Excelsior, exhibited by Messrs. Flory and Black, Slough ; Laclio-Cattleya haroldiana Bronze King, from Messrs. S. Low and Co., Enfield ; Miltonia Princess Victoria Alexandra, from M. C. Vuylsteke, Ghent ; and Odontioda Bradshawias Perfection, shown by Messrs. J. and A, McBean, Cooksbridge. Awards of Merit. — Brasso-Cattleya shilliana and Odontoglossum Chanticleer, from Messrs. Armstrong and Brown, Tunbridge Wells ; Lffilio- Cattleya Fascinator Mossiae Purity, Odontoglossum Dusky Monarch and Lffilio-Cattleya Sunstar, shown by Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Hay- ward's Heath ; Odontonia Roger Sander and Cattleya Magali Sander, exhibited by Messrs. Sander and Sons, St. Albans ; Cymbidium Venus, from Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Enfield ; and Miltonia .\donis and Odontioda Prince de Galles, shown by M. C. Vuy'stekc, Ghent. NEW ORCHIDS. First - Class Cer- tificates. — Miltonj.i The Baroness and Miltonia J. Gurne>- Fowler, both shown by Messrs. Armstrong and Brown, Tun- bridge Wells; Odontoglossum Queen .\lexandrina, from Messrs. IRIS GOLD CREST, A CHARMING NEW HYBRID SHOWN BY MR. W. R. DYKES. 286 THE GARDEN. [May 30, 1014. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. Late Peach Trees. — The fruits on these trees require their final thinning. Select the fruits which are best placed with regard to sun, and remove some of the leaves from those which it may be necessary to leave under the wires. The aim of the cultivator should be to leave the fruits evenly distributed over the tree and as many of them on the upper side of the tree as possible, and due regard must be paid to the nature and condition of each tree in deciding how many fruits they are to carry. The Orchard-House. — Apple and Pear trees in pots require careful attention. The pots have now become well filled with roots, and conse- quentlv more water and stimulants will be neces- sary. Examine them several times daily, and give sufficient water when necessary to thoroughly soak the ball of soil. As soon as the crop is sufficiently advanced, a careful thinning of the fruits should take place, removing all deformed and worthless fruits first. Plants Under Glass. Pot Roses. — Most of the plants will have finished flowering, and should be removed to their summer quarters, where the pots may be half plunged in ashes at a sufficient distance apart to permit sun and air to pass freely among them. It often happens that these plants are neglected after the flowering period is over, and conse- quently the flowers are of an inferior quality the following season. Give frequent waterings with liquid manure, and keep a sharp look-out for aphis and mildew, which must be checked as soon as possible. The buds should be removed from all shy-growing plants, in order to build them up and prepare them for next season's forcing. Calceolarias. — These are valuable plants for the conservatory, and to have them in flower early it is necessary to sow the seeds about this date. Sow in well-drained pans of fine soil and cover the seeds very lightly. Cover the pans with sheets of glass and place them in a close, cool pit. When the young plants are through the surface, they must be placed quite near the roof glass, but never be exposed to the full glare of the sun. Pot as soon as large enough, and never allow them to become pot-bound until thev are placed in their flowering pots. Humea elegans. — Now is a good time to sow seeds of this beautiful plant for the decoration of the conservatory or flower garden the following season. Sow in light, sandy soil and protect from sun. The Flower Garden. Sweet Peas. — The latest batch of plants which have been raised in pots should be planted out as soon as possible in ground which has been thoroughly prepared for them, and a sowing may be made in the open garden to produce blooms in the autumn. The early batch of plants will benefit I)v mulching with decayed manure. Mignonette. — A good sowing should be made now to produce blooms in August and September. Sow in a cool position and make the soil moderately firm. When the plants are large enough to handle, they should be freely thinned, and they must never be allowed to suffer from want of moisture at the roots. Climbing Plants. — -Attend to the requirements of all climbing plants at regular intervals, keep- ing them well thinned out so that those which remain may be trained in a free and natural manner. Clematises and Loniceras are among the first to become entangled, and, unless they are kept well within bounds, they will soon be ruined for the season. Climbing Roses must also be kept well thinned out, and the shoots from the base of the plants secured in such a manner that they will not be broken by rough wind. Insect l^ests should be carefully watched for and destroyed as soon as possible. If dry weather |)revails, a mulching of farmyard manure ought to lie placed o\'er the roots to prevent evaporatiftn. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Cherry Trees. — Most of the trees have set a good crop this season, and in many cases the fruits will require thinning if the finest quality is desired ; but this should be carefully performed, and not too freely until the fruits begin to swell. Keep a sharp look-out for black fly, which is often troublesome, especially during cold weather. Maggots are also troublesome, and must be de- stroyed as soon as noticed. Do not allow the foliage to become overcrowded for want of dis- budding. A good mulching of decayed manure may be given to trees which are exposed to the sun. As soon as the fruits begin to colour, protection from birds must be provided. Early Strawberries. — The earliest plants grow- ing on sheltered borders are now swelling their fruit, and they will benefit by a watering of w'eak liquid manure, which should be carefully applied to the roots without coming in contact with the fruit or foliage. If good specimens are desired, a careful thinning of the fruits must be done. Protect the crop from birds as soon as colouring commences. The Kitchen Garden. Peas. — To produce Peas throughout the autumn, weekly sowings should be made from this date to the middle of June, and, if possible, the ground for these sowings should have been trenched and manured for the purpose. Deep cultivation is the best means of avoiding mildew, which often proves troublesome during the autumn. The Pea is a gross-feeding plant, and should receive a liberal supply of moisture at the roots through August and September. The space between the rows should be mulched with farmyard manure. Distinction, Autocrat and Rearguard are good varieties for this purpose, and seldom suffer from the attacks of mildew. Midseason Peas should be staked as soon as the plants are a few inches high. Water and mulch freely if the weather is dry. Early Carrots. — Let these be thinned as soon as possible, and keep the hoe at work between the rows. Sow again for use during the autumn. The latest batch intended to furnish supplies through the winter and spring may be sown about the middle of June. At Frogmore our largest sowing is made in June, and these roots generally escape the Carrot fly or maggot. Vegetable Marrows may now be planted in the open and protected from frost or rough wind. Plants in pits should be kept well thinned out and watered freely with liquid manure. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Lettuce. — From this date sowings had better be made where the plants are to remain, as planting out the thinnings in hot weather entails a good deal of work in keeping them supplied with water. Care should be taken to sow thinly, and when the young plants are about three inches high, thin out to at least 9 inches apart. This will apply more particularly to the Cabbage sorts. Peas. — In cold districts it will be advisable in sowing Peas from now till the middle of June to sow some of the earlier sorts. These late sowings are sometimes not very satisfactory, as they suffer from mildew, so that it will be necessary to give them a little extra care and attention. Select a piece of ground that is partially shaded from the direct rays of the sun, and see that they do not suffer from drought. Carrots. — Maincrop Carrots will now require thinning, and, as advised for the earlier sorts, this work should be done in showery weather. Where wireworms and the Carrot maggot are trouble- some, put some mowings from the lawn between the rows, and repeat this from time to time imtil all danger is past. Kidney Beans. — The main crop should now be sown, and as this is naturally the most important, a good position shoifld be selected. One of the great evils in the cultivation of this crop is over- crowding, and there is no <:)Ccasion for it, as better crops are secured when the plants are allowed plenty of room. They should be given at least 2 feet between the rows, and thinned out to from g inches to a foot between the plants. Plants that have been brought on tuider glass may now safely be planted out. The Flower Garden. Sweet Williams.— There has been such a wonderful improvement of late vears in the strains of these old-fashioned flowers that it is more than likely their popularity will be increased. Some of the self colours, such as Pink Beauty and Sutton's Scarlet, are particularly fine, and well adapted for planting in masses where colour effects arc wanted. Thinning Hardy Annuals.— Those that were sown last month should now be ready for thinning. It is of the utmost importance that thev be thinned early and severely. If this is done, not only will the blooms be larger and finer, but they will last twice as long as those allowed to be crowded together. Plants Undtr Glass. Cyclamen. — Young plants from seed sown in August will now be ready for a shift into 4j-inch pots. Pot moderately firm in a compost of loam, leaf-soil and sand, with a sprinkling of bone-meal, and in doing so care should be taken not to damage any of the foliage. For a time after potting keep the plants shaded, and spray them over several times on fine days, as it is important that the foliage should always be moist. By the end of June they may be safely transferred to frames, keeping them well up to the glass, and bv all means see that they are not subjected to draughts. Perpetual-Flowering Carnations.— The plants rooted towards the end of last year will now be ready for potting into their flowering pots. For this potting use a good rich compost, in which only a small quantity of leaf-soil has been added, and pot rather firmly. After this potting place them in a cool house, and for a time very little water should be required ; indeed, for a day or two a slight spraying with the syringe should suffice. Indian Azaleas. — These will now have completed their growth and should be moved into cooler quarters. They must not, however, be placed out of doors at this time ; indeed, if a convenient light structure is available, where they will get plenty of light and air, they had better not be put out at all. Sowing Primulas. — The seed should only just be covered with fine soil or sand. Place the seed- pan in a moderate temperature and shade from the sun. Be careful to prick out the seedlings as soon as they can be handled, and put them back into heat until they are large enough to pot on. Cinerarias. — Where the plants are not expected to be in bloom before March, the seed need not be sown before this date. Unlike Primulas, they resent a high temperature. Stand the seed-pan in a cold frame, and, if not exposed to the sun, it will not be necessary to shade them in any way. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Apples. — The fruits on the most forward of the young trees will now be sufficiently advanced so that they may be gone over and judiciously thinned. It is a great mistake to allow large clusters of fruit to remain on the trees, whichxwill more than likely never make good specimens. It is far better to have a few good fruits than a score of indifferent ones that in the end will not be fit even for cooking. If time will permit, these young bearing trees will be greatly benefited by an occasional watering with liquid manure. Fruits Under Glass. Vines in Early Houses. — When the berries have finished colouring, the temperature should be reduced ; indeed, fire-heat should only be used on dull days. Vines in succession houses will be coming on rapidly, and the houses should be closed down early in the afternoon to get the benefit of as much fire-heat as possible. On fine evenings the top ventilators should be opened slightly for a short time to clear excessive moisture. Melons. — ."Vs the fruit is approaching the ripening stage, only sufficient water should be given to keep the plants from flagging. Air should be admitted top and bottom ; this will add materially to the flavour of the fruit. Melons should be kept at least four days after being cut before being sent to the table. John Highgate. (Head-gardener to the Marquis of LinUthgo\\'.) Hopetoim Gardens, South Queensferry, N.B. May 30, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 287 INFORMAL FEATURES IN A GARDEN SCHEME. So wide is the geographical distribution of the exotic plants with which gardens are adorned at present that it is not surprising the old attitude of arranging them in stereotyped borders, if not wholly surrendered, has been at least modified to such degree that for these wildings of other lands a freer arrangement, both in garden design and in the system of grouping them, is being generally adopted. To this influence much of the present character of informal gardening is due. It seeks, beyond all things, to illustrate plant-life in its highest possible development, grouping them under conditions that approximate to those in Nature ; and creates a sense of indi- viduality in the garden scheme, investing it with a charm that would otherwise be non-existent. It is idle to suggest that a heterogeneous collection of plants indigenous to widely diiiferent localities can be accommodated under border conditions with the hope of permanent success ; while apart from this consideration is the fact that a garden gains in interest and effect when the transition from one part to another is gradual and discloses by its occupants or arrangement that different conditions are illustrated. Reasons such as these give distinction to rock, bog, water and other special gardens to which distinctive names have been given, indicating the prevalent type of plant-life for whose well-being they have been created. The principle underlying this idea is apparent, as, in the first instance, alpine and hiU-loving plants are mentally associated with elevated ground and rock, and in reproducing these under artificial conditions we emphasise the most prominent features, choosing a more or less elevated position partly on account of the greater available light, and because such a position accentuates the apparent height. One may contend that the use of rock is only a fanciful idea, gaining its importance chiefly from the effect it produces ; but its mechanical action in draining and conserving moisture in the soil is of far greater moment. Its pictorial aspect is only worthy of attention when it is carefully held, subservient to, and gives forceful expression to, the living plants with which it is adorned. Some criticism of an adverse character is at times directed to the fact that in numerous instances rock gardens are accompanied by an accessory background in the form of trees or shrubs ; but as these are salient features in any English landscape, it does not appear feasible to eliminate them. The additional element of truth that would accrue scarcely compen- sates for their loss, and when the taller arborescent growth does not encroach upon or overshadow the rock garden, its double function as shelter and background is always an asset of great practical value. The transition from rock to water garden is rendered most natural by interpolating the bog garden between. Its drier portion, encountered directly on leaving the rock garden, will foster growth native to the open uplands and heath. By gradual descent moister conditions will unfold themselves, until quite sodden ground will occur in close proximity to, and at times be carried directly from, the margins of an open expanse of water, while natiural conditions approximating to those indicated foster the widest range of exotic plant-life at no great expense beyond the initial cost. In their absence much may be done by artificial means to render such a scheme feasible, either on a large or a small scale. One of the best agents for forming an impervious lining over porous soil is well-puddled clay, a material that is generally easy to procure and at no great expense. For open water, the ground after excavating should have the sides and bottom lined with clay to a depth of 6 inches to 9 inches, while ground intended for bog-beds should have a thickness of 4 inches to 6 inches puddled over the bottom and sides, care being exercised that the clay is not allowed to dry and shrink before the water and soil are given their respective positions. Were the ground not too restricted, a happy expression would be to wed the water scheme on its northern limits to the woodland, and if some portions of the latter were partly cleared of the forest growth and the ground cleaned and manured, introducing wide belts of Primrose, Polyanthus, Forget-me-not, Doronicum, Arabis, Aubrietia, Iris, Lupine and Foxglove, with Tulips, Daffodils, Scillas, Muscaris, Snowdrops, Aconites, Ornithogalums, Camassias and allied subjects, a feature of unusucd beauty and of perennial interest would be incorporated in the garden scheme. One would naturally be tempted to link this part up with the other garden features by introducing informal groups of wild Roses of this and other lands, and any of their numerous progeny that are free in growth and effective in flower. It would be easy to name Roses that would look natural if skirting the northern extremes of the bog ground, while sympathy with the rock garden would be expressed in Rosa nitida, R. lucida, R. pyrenciica and the prostrate-growing wichuraiana type. Gradually, as the rock garden passed from view and the more formal lines of terrace, parterre or mansion disclose themselves, a more orderly arrangement will prevail ; and the transition from the informal or natural garden to that which is strictly formal is nowhere easier or more pleasantly united than by the aid of Roses alone. Coombe Court Gardens. Thomas Smith. EDITORIAL NOTICES. Every department of horticulture is represented in THE Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions relating to matters upon which they wish expert advice. The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes, but he will not be responsible for their safe return. All reasonable care, however, ivill be taken, and where stamps are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted contributions. As regards photograph-t, if payynent be desired, the Editor asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated. It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo- grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with. The Editor loill not be responsible for the return of artistic or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone be recognised as acceptance. O^ces : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— Tfte Editor intends to make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assist- ance, no matter ivhat the branch of gardening may be, and with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London, W C. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and parked in damp grans or moss, no', cntton-wool, and /towering shoots, ivhere possible, should be sent. It is useless to send small scraps that are not character islic of the plant. Letters on business should be sent to the Publisher. FLOWER G\RDRN. TULIP BULBS FOR INSPECTION (H. ii.).— Xho bulbs are perfectly healthy, but the plantH have suffered from some check while they were CTowing. Probably they became too dry or were suddenly exposed to a ditferent temperature from that to which they had become aceustomed. **FIRE»' IN TULIPS (C. Q.).— The Tulips are badly attacked by the disease called " fire." This diweaee is usually very prevalent when the Tiilipp are exposed to cold v/inds or frosts during the growine period, and is also likely to be carried over from one year to the next by means of the re^stint? bodies which the funj^us Sclerotina parasitica, to which it is due, produces. These resting bodies may be present either in the soil or in the bulb;i just between the bulb scales or about the neck of the bulb. We find that protecting the young gro\vths of the Tulip is a great aid in warding off the disease. TREES AND SHRUBS. SHRUB TO NAME AND TREATMENT (Mrs. A. T.).— The specimen sent for determination is the Bladder Nut {Staphylea plnnata), a native of Southern Europe. The red-berried Elder to which you refer is Sambucus raccmosa, a shrub common throughout the Northern Hemisphere and plentiful in some parts of Switzerland. PRUNING DOUBLE-FLOWERED CORSE (B. B. « ).— The double-flowered Gorse may be kept away by culling it back as soon as the flowers are over. If it is kept pruned from the time it is l\ feet hiuh, there will be no need to cut it hard ; but if it is allowed to become leggy, it will then need to be cut back into the hard wood. Mthouuh it usually breaks well from old wood, such is not always the case, and it is as well to avoid too severe prunini whenever it is possible. TREATMENT FOR LILACS (H. Af.)-— Providing your Lilacs are healthy, you may cut them back safely in the manner you describe. The work should be done as soon as the flowers fade. Do not allow suckers to grow from the rootstock, however, for they will weaken the main branches. It is also advisable to keep the centres of the plants free from very weak shoots. An occasional application of liquid cow-manure may be given with beneficial results during the period of growth, and a surface-dressing of well-decayed manure above the roots will assist in the promotion of new growth. THE GREENHOUSE. ABOUT AN ASPIDISTRA (M. P. H.).— Rither (1) the plant is in a draught. (2) the leaf sent is fading from old age, or (S) the soil is becoming poor. Try water- ing with a solution of sulphate of ammonia As much as will cover a sixpence dissolved in a gallon of water may be used once a week. FRUIT GARDEN. RED CURRANT LEAVES (D. M. H,).— The Currant ba^h appears to be attacked by aphis, and should be sprayed with Quassia and soft soap. MELON PLANT FOR INSPECTION (C, L. 5.).— The brownintr of the Melon stem does not appear to be due to any insect or fungus attack, but looks more like burning or scorching. INJURY TO RASPBERRIES (H. E. J.).— Your Easp- berries are badly attacked by the Kaspberry cane moth (Lampronia rubiella), the caterpillar of which bores into the young shoots and destroys them. If you cut away and burn' the affected shoots now, you could do much towards destroying the pest outright. MISCELLANEOUS. THE LESSER STITCHWORT (C. P.).— The Lesser Stitchwort is Stellaria graminea, the two names being used together in Syme's " English Botany." It can be dis- tinguished from the Greater Stitchwort by its narrower leaves and smaller flowers. The two can be easily separated Both are quite common. SWEET PEA LEAVES FOR INSPECTION {F. 72.).— The yellowness of the leaves is a symptom of some mal- nutrition, but the material is insufiicient to enable- us to say what the precise cause of the trouble is, or whether it is in any way connected with streak (which we greatly doubt). Cold winds sometimes bring about an appearance such as the leaves show. WATER AND CEMENT TANK (C. T.).— We have not experienced anything of a detrimental character resulting from the use of water from a newly made cement tank, and have knoivm of several instances of Water Lilies being planted before the first water was run off. If, however, you fear to use the first water, let it stand for a few days and then let it run off. The differences between Cheiranthus and Erysimimi are very small, and rest chiefly in the form taken by the cotyledons or seed leaves. In Cheiranthus they are usually accumbent and in Erysimum they are incumbent. Botanists are not aiireed upon the point that the two genera should be kept distinct. VARIOUS QUESTIONS {F. W. L. F.) —Before giving advice on the sioppins of Clirysanthemum plants for the production of exhibition blooms, we should require to know which varieties you are growing. Usually, the natural break — which occurs on the majority of varieties 288 THE GARDEN. [May 30, 1914. ( rorn the beginning of May to the end o£ June— gives tin- most desirable results. Naturally late-flowering sorts should have been stopped before this date. Plants intended to bear more flowers of smaller size for cutting should be stopped in April and again early in June. Yes ; plant Oxalis cernua in the autumn. The name of the tlowiT sent is Clivia niiniata. NAMES OF PLANTS. — Zielie. — Paulownia imperialis. C.H. F.— PvriisTorniinalis(the Wild Service Tree). — Miss M. a. H.-=-Raphiolepis iivata. 0. B., Lympstone. — Ceanothus dcntatus. The plant described is a very flue specimen. J. D. — Pvrus Aria (White Beam). J. F., Count)/ Durham.— Prumia Padus (the Bird Cherry). It will grow freely in ordinary garden soil. H. C. C, Limerick, ^Rhododendron formosum. Hardy in South - West Ireland. Black Eumbro. — Lonicera tartarica. Mrs. Sartorius.—l, Pvrus pinnatiflda ; 2, Cytisus monspessu- lanus. C. P., 'Bournemouth. — 1, Pseudotsuga Douglasii; 2, Syringa vulgaris variety. The other two specimens were" too much mthered to identify. Both specimens in the second batch are of the Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga Douglasii), though one is apparently from a tree in poor liealtli. A. a. a.—l, Crassula species; 2, Cuphca miniata ; 3, Uuellia Portellae ; 4, Primula malacoides ; 5, Chlorophj-tum datum variegatum. The Peach is aflieeted by mildew, due to bad ventilation. Try flowers of >ulphur or a solution of potassium sulphide. C. H., Worthinq. — 1. Asphodelinc lutea ; 2, Asphodelus albus ; 3, Camassia esculenta variety. Miss Lloyd. — Saxifraga Sibthorpii. H. B. — 1, 2 and 3, garden seedlings of Phlox subulata ; 4 and 5, the Irises were beyond recognition ; 6, iMi'lisia fulgens. H. A. C. — Garden varieties of Azalea wliich have no distinctive names. ./. M. — 1, Ciassula lycopodioides ; 2, Tolmiea Menziesii , 3, Pyrus TorminaUs ; 4. P. Aria variety ; 5, P. intermedia. ORCHIDS AT THE CHELSEA SHOW. There were thirteen groups of Orchids, an unlucky number truly, for the magnificent collection of Sir George Holford, which has so Dften formed a flower show in itself, went unrepresented. The groups stretched the whole length of the north and south sides of the Large Tent. Amateurs were represented by the Duke of Marlborough, Sir Jeremiah Colman and Mr. James Horlick. We saw no epoch-making flower, though there were the usual large number of novelties. The feature of the Orchids was their extremely high general level, and we have no liesitation in saying they have never been betteredat any of the earlier shows. Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Hayward's Heath, led off the groups on the northern side of the tent with a design as pleasing in the sustained balance of colour from end to end as in the rich variety and fine culture of the varieties included. The centre-pieco was a mass of Odontiodas in shades of scarlet, overhung with three white sprays of Odontdglossum armainvil:iers xanthotes. Two immense pans of Cattleya Skinneri on either hand, with their clear shade of purple rose, clashed a little perhaps with the scarlet, but led to lovely masses of Cattleya hybrids and Miltonias in some particu- larly good vaneties. Hybrid Odontoglnssums occupied the wings, and these, with intermediate banks of La^lio-Cattleya Fascinator on one side and LEelio-Cattleya Aphrodite on the other, were linked together at the back by an arrangement of Miltonias and Cattleyas. This scheme was novel, but impressed us as being a little too flat. The way in which the yellow of Laslio-Cattleya Euripides and other hybrids at the base linked up the yellow of the Oncidiums overhanging the banks of Cattleyas was, however, very pleasing. The group was full of good things. The soft shades of Thunia Veitchii, the fine-flowered specimen of Calanthe veratrifolia, and such Odontiodas as Charlesworthii, Diana, Bradshawia; and Joan were a few that caught the eye at once. The Duke of .Marlborough, Blenheim (gardener, Mr. G. Hunter), had an interesting collection, but the group larked a connecting thread which, by connecting allied plants and related colours more closely, would have often added beauty by leading thp eye to special points. Der.drobiums nobile virginale and Deareii were well flowered, Cattleya Undine was another pretty piece of white, and Brasso-Cattleyas ImpSratrice de Riissie and Maroniae were fine plants. Messrs. J. Cypher and Sons, Cheltenham, had a novel arrangement built up in a square plot from the ground. The four corners were capped with nice plants of Cocos weddelliana, while linking two sides wr.s an arch carrying some fine plants of Dendrobium wardianum. Under this arch one got the prettiest effects, Renantheras, Cattleyas, Epidendrums and many fine forms of La:lio and Brasso Cattleyas glinting through films of greenery. There was a lovely piece of Temple's variety of Cattleya Skinneri, and Lajlio-Cattleya hyeana was very fine ; but did not those broad-leaved, warm- coloured Crotons seem rather too heavy for the delicate white sprays of Phatenopsis next them ? Messrs. Sander and Sons, St. Albans, staged a collection on the north tabling which in arrangement and fine quality at once impressed one as one of the perfect things of the show. Twenty-four magnifi- cent Brasso-Cattleyas and Brasso-La;lio-Cattleyas formed the face of a central trophy, of which the sides showed Miltonias in many soft shades.^ Tricho- pilias suavis and Hennisii formed a base, which in a trailing line was continued right and left to the ends of the group. Phalajnopsis and Renanthera were an outstanding combination repeated on each side, and there were grand terminals of Cattleyas and Odoiitoglossums. From so many good things it was difficult to select just those few we have space to mention. Miltonia vexiUaria G. D. Owen, darkly blotched, must be one of them. The white Cattleyas Mossiae Wageneri and Magali Sander were very fine indeed. Others were Cypri- pedium rothschildianum The King, Odonto- glossum ardentissimum verulamium, Odontioda Roger Sander and Miltonia Dreadnought. Messrs. Armstrong and Brown, Tunbridge Wells, ended the tabling at the north end of the tent. Here was a regal collection of species and hybrids, regal in name and culture alike, containing such novelties as Odontioda Coronation, Odontoglossum Queen Mary, Brasso-Laslio-Cattleya Prince of Wales, and the old Dendrobium thyrsiflorum carrying twenty flower-spikes. There was a grand plant of Coelogyne pandiurata. Cymbidium Pauwelsii was fine. A lovely effect was produced by the slender sprays of Odontoglossum thompsonianum leaning tlirough a broad bank of pure white Phalaenopsis. The real feature of the group, however, was its rich Brasso and Lselio Cattleyas, which repaid a long examination. James Horlick, Esq., West Dean Park, Chichester (gardener, Mr. W. H. Smith), sent one of those groups interesting in themselves, and doubly interesting because they were unique. Under a background of Palms was a wonderfully flowered batch of Vanda teres arranged in the shape of a crescent on the ground. We really thought them too full of flower, and wished they could have been spread out to cover twice the space. The crescent enclosed a centre-piece of Calla Pentlandii, the species with deep green, unmottled leaves and very large, rich golden yellow spathes, which are touched with crimson at the base. Bamboos, Grevilleas and Maidenhair Ferns lightened the whole group. An admirable collection. Messrs. Mansell and Hatcher, Limited, Rawdon, Leeds, were at the south end of the tent, and their group maintained that high standard of artistic staging which they were among the very first to inlroduce. A bold centre-piece of glistening white Pha'ajnopsis was sui rounded at a lower level with a belt of the deep red ot Renanthera imschootiana. Right in the centre was a glowing carmine piece of Odontioda Chanticleer. At either end were masses of Cattleya Mossiae in many forms, cut off from the centre by recessed batches of Odonto- glossum hybrids. Odontoglossum amabile Roya) Gem, LcBlio-Cattleya Eudora and the yellow of Odontoglossum crispo-harryanum were a few of the specially good things. Messrs. J. and A. McBean, Cooksbridge, showed a batch, in which we found more pleasure in examin- ing individual plants than in admiring the colour scheme as a whole. The altangement was too " spotty " with the irregulai dotting of the Odontiodas along the whole frontage. But who cares ? Here were Cattleya Mossiae with twenty- eight flowers, Oncidioda Cooksonas with fortj'- nine flowers, and grand plants of Oncidium mcbeanianum {a new macranthus hybrid), Laelio-Cattleya Melius (a shade of salmon), Odonto- glossum armainvilhers alba, Lselio-Cattleya Anak, L.-C. Ganymede (with yellow wings), L.-C. callisto- glossa ignescens and, best of all, Odontioda Per- fection, with flowers of Chanticleer colour and Charlesworthii size. Sir Jeremiah Colman, Gatton Park, Reigate (gardener, Mr. J. Collier), sent a beautiful group, of which the first thing to tell was that all the Odontiodas (and the group was dominated by them) were Gatton seedlings. One plant carried over two hundred flowers on three spikes, and another over one hundred and seventy. Lady Colman has given her name to specially lovely forms oj O. Bradshawiae and O. Vuylstekes. Two striking terminals to the group were Coelogyne dayana, the Necklace Orchid, and Dendrobium acumina' tum, a unique plant which carried five spikes, each with ten to twelve flowers. Phalaenopsis, Miltonias and Odontoglossums gave re lieving touches of soft colour, and there were many more good Gatton seed- lings, but the general scheme of the group was its profuse masses of scarlet Odontiodas sprayed out from the slender greenery of Asparagus albanensis. Mr. Harry Dixon, Spencer Park Nursery, Wandsworth Common, had a number of interest- ing plants. There were several nice forms of Cattleya Mossiae. Lselio-Cattleya canhamiana x Mendelii and La;lio-Cattleya Mendelii May Queen were both good. Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Bush Hill Park, had the largest display on the south side of the tent. The centre-piece was an outstanding trophy of Phalaenopsis, contrasted with Odontiodas and Renantheras. The two extremities were solid effective clumps of Renantheras, while between were masses of Cattleyas, Leclias and hybrids broken by little groups of rarities and curiosities. There were Cyrtopodium punctatissimum, with curious mottled yellow flowers, overtopped by its enormous hom-like pseudo-bulbs ; Cyrto- podium andersonianum, with tall spikes of clear yellow ; the delightful little blue Vanda (V. cseriilescens), the BuH's-head Vanda (V. cristata) and strange Sacrolobiums. The race of yellow Lslia flava x tenebrosa seedlings also deserved special notice. Messrs. Flory and Black, Slough, staged a small group in which Cattleyas, Odontoglossums, Lffilio-Cattleyas and Odontiodas were represented ; likewise a pretty mass of the orange Laclio-Cattleya G. S. Ball, surrounded by the white of Phalaenopsis. Mr. C. F. Waters, Balcombe, Sussex, had a central mass of Cattleyas with batches of Miltonias oi> either hand, and the whole was overhung with white Odontoglossums. It was a pretty bank of colour, but as one stood back onejiad a feeling that the arrangement was too flat. '.f^-^i^M^z:^!^ 5^3?""®- GARDEN. -^^^ No. 2220.— Vol. LXXVIII. June 6, 1914. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Severe Frosts in May. — I" many pans lA the country severe frosts were experienced during the nights of the 25th and 26th ult. Mr. Harriss informs us that at Lockinge 8° and 9° respectively were registered on those dates. A great deal of ■damage has been caused in many places, especially to early Potatoes, French Bears and Roses. Newly Planted Trees and Shrubs.— Trees and shrubs that were planted last autumn or in the spring should have plenty of water given to them now, for it is just at this time that such plants suffer. Evergreens will greatly benefit by an occasional syring- ing overhead. Primula La Lorraine. — This new hybrid, raised by Messrs. Lemoine et Fils of Nancy, promises to be a good garden or cool-house plant. It is a hybrid between P. Sieboldii and P. Veitchii, and partakes of the characters of both its parents. The [flowers are pleasing in colour, and the habit of the plant quite good. Megaseas as Foliage Plants. — Broad- spreading forms of Megasea (Saxifraga), with the rich and varied colours of their large leaves, are worth growing for their foliage alone, as when once established they are attractive at all seasons, whether it be on the higher parts of the rock garden, in the wilder parts of the grounds, or by the side of streams, and at the present time are among the most effective of foliage plants. Planting Annuals.— This work should be finished with as little delay as possible. A showery day ought to be chosen for the purpose, but failuig this, the soil should be thoroughly moistened a day previous to planting. Large quantities of the various kinds for cutting can be planted on good, rich soil, so that during the season those plants which are placed in the pleasure grounds may be left uncut. A Handsome Fumitory. — In Corydalis nobilis we have a distinct and extremely attractive plant, and, without doubt, the most desirable of the whole genus. It is of robust habit and perfectly hardy, always yielding an abundance of flowers at this season of the year. They are of a rich golden yellow with chocolate spots on the lip, and are borne on strong stems, leafy to the top, and rarely exceeding i foot in height. These rise from a mass of bright green, Fem-like foliage. It is an excellent plant for a damp spot in the rockerj-. although it may be planted along the border with equal effect, and can be readily increased by division or raised from seed. Sowing Mignonette. — Seed may be sown in good rich soil, and a sharp look-out kept for ment can be effected in one season. The grass, of course, will take on a slightly brown tinge, but it soon recovers and comes stronger than ever. The Bridal Wreath (Francoa ramosa). — Plants that are throwing up plenty of flower- slugs, which are very fond of this plant while in , spikes should be supported by neat sticks ; place a young state. Soot may be freely sprinkled them in a cool pit and protect from strong sim. about the plants to keep slugs in check, and will I Seeds of this plant may be sown now to produce also prove a valuable stimulant to the plants plants for next season. Sow in pans of fine, sifted throughout the season. Several sowings may be soil and cover with sheets of glass. Pot on as soon as ready, and grow the plants in a well- ventilated pit on a bed of ashes. Protect from sun and never allow them to suffer from want of moisture at the roots. Cucumbers in Unheated Pits. — Hot- beds may now be made up either in brick pits or in the frame ground, where wood frames may be used. The material should be thoroughly prepared before the bed is made up, and this ought to be trodden tightly together before the box frame is placed in position. The soil should be allowed to become thoroughly warm before the plants are put out, and some covering must be applied at night. Vases and Boxes. — In the making up of these useful adjuncts to the flower garden it must be remembered that as their season is so very short and the space limited, none but good established plants should be used. Many fine effects can be had by making use of good-sized plants of some of the hardier varieties of Fuchsias as a centre plant, while the rest of the vase or basket could be filled with smaller-growing plants, such as Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums. Horticulture at the Panama-Pacific Exposition. — Horticulture, we are told, is to be well represented at the Panama- Pacific International Exposition, to be opened at San Francisco on February 20, rgis. A valuable cup is to be offered for the best new seedling Rose that is shown, and many attractions are promised. One of these is a wonderful new Rhubarb, which, we are informed, is " extraordinary for its ex- ceptional length of stem, which is 2 feet to 3 feet long." No doubt many of our readers will journey to San Francisco purposely to see such wonderful Rhubarb — unless, as is quite likely, they happen to have some with longer stems at home. A new Sweet Pea, which is not an annual, but a perennial, is to be another feature. The flowers of this, we are solemnly told, wiU " no more fade than will the green of living Ivy," and blooms will remain fresh till the end of the year. ANDROSACE PRIMULOIDES AND OTHER CHOICE ALPINES ON A DRY WALL IN A DEVONSHIRE GARDEN. (See next pige.) made from now until the end of June on rich soil which has been made firm by treading. To Eradicate Daisies on Lawns. — Where Daisies are present to any extent they very soon crowd out the finer grasses, and means should be taken to at least check them. For this purpose there is nothing better than finely powdered sulphate of ammonia apphed in dry weather at the rate of loz. to every square yard. This must be repeated from time to time, and if this is persisted in, it isreaUy surpiising what an improve- 290 THE GARDEN. [June 6, 1914. CORRESPONDENCE. {The Editor is not responsibie for the opinions expressed by correspondents.) Androsace primuloides in a Dry Wall. — I am sending you a photograph of Androsace primu- loides. The plants are growing in a dry wall facing south, and were very small in 2j-inch pots when they were planted in October, rgia. Now they are two fine clumps a foot or more across, and a mass of bloom. In dry walls we can grow Androsaces here without any trouble or covering with sheets of glass in the winter, as the drainage is perfect and they get every bit of sun. In the same photograph will be seen a clump of Saxifraga pyramidalis, also Sedum pilosum and Campanula carpatica. The last two have flowered since the photograph was taken. The Androsaces are grow- ing in garden loam mixed with sea-sand and small in the sunny South and West, where the bushes ! give the most satisfaction in this country. Layering is the most ready means of propagation. — A. O. Cinerarias from Cuttings. — Cinerarias are so universally grown from seeds that the fact that they can be readily increased by means of cuttings is not generally recognised. Such, however, is the case ; in fact, there are a few hybrids that do not produce good seed, and therefore can only be propagated from cuttings. Again, even among the florists' forms it may be desired to increase a few of marked beauty or possessing some features that cannot be depended upon to come true from seed. To ensure cuttings, the old plants should be shortened back after flowering, when young shoots will be pushed out from the base. As soon as these are about two inches in length they may be taken as cuttings, and if inserted into pots of sandy soil and placed in a close propagating- case in gentle heat they will soon root. — H. P. A SPRAY OF CORNUS NUTTALLII WITH LARGE CREAMY WHITE FLOWERS. stones. — E. A. Frouue, Kingsbridf;e, Sciith Devon. A Beautiful Cornel or Dogwood : Cornus Nuttallii. — This Dogwood, which is a native of Western North America, is the most attractive species of the genus from a floral standpoint. Strictly, however, the attraction lies in the showy bracts, four to six in number, surrounding the closely packed head of flowers. These bracts are creamy white, i inch to 3 inches long, forming the so-called flower, which may be 4 inches or even more in diameter. Cornus Nuttallii is a deciduous tree up to 50 feet to 60 feet, occasionally more, in height, in Western North America. As grown in this country it is usually a bush or small bushy tree. The flowers are formed at the tips of the young shoots in autumn, gradually developing during the winter and expanding in the spring. Flowering early, the bracts and flowers are often damaged or crippled by frosts and cold winds. It is thus very desirable to plant Nuttall's Cornel in a sheltered spot, except Primulas Causing Rash. — I see in the issue of The Garden for May 16 " J. D.'s " remarks re Primulas obconica and malacoides causing a rash. Both these valuable decorative plants cause the same rash on myself, and at one time I was about to get rid of them when it occurred to me to try an ointment that I always keep by me for bruises. The rash always comes out on myself within half an hour from the time of handling the plants, so the next time I felt it coming I smeared my hands and arms over with the ointment, and was delighted to find it took away all irritation almost immediately. I should not like to say that it would cure everyone in the same way ; but I think anyone who is fond of these plants and is afraid to grow them on that account would do well to try the ointment. I do not wait for the rash to come out now, but directly I have finished handling the plants I treat my hands. The name of the ointment is " Healo," made by Mr. Maurice Smith, chemist, Kidderminster. Should any of your readers try the remedy, I should like to hear ' the result. I might add I hold no brief for Mr, I Maurice Smith. — C. H. Clarke, The Gardens, The Hialh, Bcwdlcv. Wurccslcrshire. Primula pulverulenta Mrs Berkeley Producing \ Seed. — In the course of recent visits to the gardens at Clandon Park, Surrey, and to the nurseries of Messrs. R. Wallace and Co., Colchester, I have seen this charming Primula seeding with as much freedom as, or even greater than, the species. This point is of interest, as Dr. Macwatt has repeatedly stated in the columns of The Garden that this variety is sterile. It was pointed out to me at Colchester that both pin-eyed and thrum-eyed plants are in existence there. It is just a sugges- tion, but possibly the cross-fertilisation of the two forms is necessary in order to yield fertile seed. In any case, the fact that both forms exist is proof that there are two stocks of this variety, for either form would continue to reproduce the same kind of flower so long as it was propagated vegetatively. With Primulas, at least, it is not safe to generalise regarding their sterility. Thus, it was not many years ago that P. kewensis was described as a mule hybrid, i.e., one not capable of producing fertile seed. We now know that this hybrid produces seed with remarkable free- dom.—C. Q. A Good Red-Flowered Saxifrage. — Probably the best red Mossy Saxifrage which has come under our notice is the fine variety Beacon, which was raised here a season or two ago. In size the flowers are fully equal to bathoniensis, but the colouring is much deeper, reminding one of the brilliant depth of crimson which we get in the small-flowered Guildford Seedling. The stems are stiff, the blossoms held erect, and the habit of growth is distinctly good. In our opinion it is even better than our own Fire King, which IS now in the hands of Messrs. Piper of Bayswater. Last season we formed the opinion that Fire King was even better than sanguinea superba, and if our opinion is correct, then it emphasises still further the value of Beacon. The whole race of Mossy Saxifrages seem productive of too many varieties, but it is well to record the appearance of any that are especially noteworthy. — P. S. Havward, Claclon-on-Sea. Tricuspidaria dependens in South - West Scotland. — Probably the finest plant of the wonderfully beautiful Tricuspidaria dependens, still frequently known as Crinodendron Hookeri, in Scotland is that in the rock garden of Mr. W. D. Robinson-Douglas of Orchardton in Kirkcud- brightshire. It has been at Orchardton for a considerable number of years, and has stood the tests of several severe winters. None, however, proved so injurious to this fine shrub as that of I9i2-r3, when a wet autumn, so mild that Roses were cut the day before the severe frost came in the same garden, was followed by a sudden and very severe spell of hard weather. The temperature went down to about zero — an unusual thing in this garden close to the Solway — and remained very low for some days. In the spring T. dependens was a sorry spectacle, and there were but few green leaves left on it. During last summer it made a wonderful recovery, and although slightly less in stature, it now shows hardly any traces of its ordeal. At the time of writing it is laden with hundreds of flower-buds, and in a short time will be a very beautiful spectacle. It is planted on a slightly elevated mound in the rock garden and facing south ; it is some 8 feet or 9 feet high, and on its mound rises well above the spectator. — S Arnott. June 6, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 291 The Asarabacca Plant.^This plant is, I fear, known to very few. I have visited a good many gardens in the United Kingdom, but it was only four summers ago that I stumbled upon it in the old garden at Midmar Castle, Aberdeenshire, and I would have been unable to identify it had I not had for a companion the local doctor, who is a good botanist, The botanical name of the plant is Asarum europaeum. Its dull brown flowers are not very attractive, but its Cyclamen- like leaves, growing in pairs, are very ornamental. It is worthy of a place at the foot of the rockwork or in a shady border ; or, better still, it may be employed as an edging under the shade of trees, as I saw it at Midmar Castle. — Charles Comfort. A Good Forget-Me-Not. — About twelve months ago an article appeared in The Garden from the pen of Mr. C. Blair of Linlithgow, in which he enumerated some good things worth growing — I think that was his phrasing. Among the plants mentioned was a Myosotis named Barr's Alpine Blue, which the writer strongly recommended, and which we at once obtained. For some time past and at present we are verifying the ex- cellent account Mr. Blair gave of this variety. The colour is a most attractive shade of blue, much resemblmg M. rupicola, which variety one might imagine entered into the parentage of the above. Compared with Barr's Alpine Blue, several varieties now catalogued are not worth growing. — C. T., Highgaic. The Ginger Plant for Decoration. — It is from the rhizomes of this East Indian plant. Zingiber officinale, that we get our supplies of ginger, and on that account it is of great commercial value. I would like, however, to draw attention to it as a decorative plant, especially for the house. A well-grown plant with its Canna-like foliage, which stands the wear and tear of house decora- tion, is an object not to be despised. Its leaves are also highly aromatic, and are to me always more suggestive of cinnamon than of gmger. If an old plant is broken up in the spring and nice pieces are potted up into 6-inch pots, they soon make fine decorative plants if grown in a stove temperature. They should be grown in a light, rich soil, in which the rhizomes run freely. — C, C. Too-much-alike Auriculas. — ^Your correspon- dent " Taplow," on page 239, opens up a subject which I am afraid cannot be answered briefly. He mentions that few of the varieties of Auriculas named in trade growers' lists are entered for com- petition, and if he excludes those that are relatively high priced, he still further reduces the number. This is, as applied to the alpine section, mainly caused by the fact that many varieties which were exhibited ten or fifteen years ago have been superseded by more recent introductions of greater merit, and not, as in the case of Sweet Peas, because they are too much alike. There are cases where Auriculas are so much alike as to be hardly dis- tinguishable, but these cases are not many. Mrs. H. Turner and Defiance are much alike, and though once in the front rank, are rarely seen now. Among more recent and meritorious varie- ties may be mentioned Exquisite and Unexpected, or Miss Violet Vanbrugh and Muriel ; but this does not in any way prevent them being exhibited. In the slow growth and increase of the plant will, I think, be found the reason why the bulk of the catalogued varieties of alpine Auriculas are not seen on the exhibition table. Many of the best exhibition varieties at the present time have been raised by amateur growers, and are exhibited by them. In some cases these raisers will not part with plants, and they certainly are not tempted to dispose of their best productions until they have materially increased their stock. When they do part with plants, it is usually among their friends and members of their respective societies, by whom they are for some time shown before they find their way into trade lists. Argus and Thetis, two good exhibition varieties, were a long time before they found their way into a dealer's list, although they had been shown for many years at the National Auricula Society's (Midland Section) shows. By the time many of the varieties have increased sufficiently to sell at a cheap rate, other varieties are raised which supersede them on the exhibition table ; at least this is so as regards the alpines. Among the show Auriculas there are many of the more moderate priced which are still of great value for exhibition, although the two best grey edges, George Lightbody and Richard Headley, still command a fairly high price, in spite of their MR. E. HARRISS, HEAD-GARDENER AT LOCKINGE. sixty years, due to slow growth and increase coupled with a large demand. A dozen good alpuies taken from trade growers' lists, excluding new and expensive varieties, would be Argus, Duke of York, Janet, Miss Berkeley, Ettrick, Mrs. James Douglas, Phyllis Douglas, Charmer, Majestic, Mrs. Martin Smith, WiUiam Smith and Ilene. I would suggest that your corre- spondent joins one of the sections of the National Auricula Society and gets into touch with growers who hold stocks of good things not catalogued. I have forwarded the report of the National Auricula Society (Midland Section) for the last three years for your correspondent's perusal. — G. J. S. [Will " Taplow " please send us Ms name and address, which we have mislaid, so that we can forward the report ? — Ed.] FORTHCOMING EVENTS. June 10. — Conference on Hardy Plants at the Anglo-American Exhibition at Shepherd's Bush. (Provisional.) PLANNING AND PLANTING THE LITTLE GARDEN. We are pleased to state that our competition for planning and planting the little garden is creating a great deal of interest. For the benefit of new readers we may state that we are offering cash prizes to the total value of £33 12s., as well as a number of book prizes, for the best designs for planning and planting the little garden. Full particulars of the competition were published in our issue for May 18, and a copy of the rules and conditions will be forwarded to anyone on receipt of rjd. in stamps. The application coupon for , le outline plans will be found on page iv. of this issue. All questions relating to the com- petition will be fully answered in oiu' issue for Jun 20, and not in the present issue, as erroneously stated last week. Important. — Some correspondents are evidently imder the impression that they cannot enter the competition after June 6. They can do so as late as they wish. The only fixed date is Sep- tember I, 1914, for the delivery of the completed designs. TWO INTERESTING VIOLAS. Viola Red Dawn. — With our extensive culture of Viola gracilis hybrids it is not exceptional for a new and noteworthy variety to arise from among its fellows. The form under notice is one of the best of the present year, and offers a pleasing contrast in colour to the majority of existing varieties. The colour is a pleasing rich rosy red, and the flowers are rounded in formation and held erect upon stiff stems. The growth is very dwarf, the tufts of foliage keeping to the ground- level, and the leaves are less smooth and more rounded than in most gracilis varieties. If, like its better-known predecessors, it retains the same ability to withstand drought, then Red Dawn will assuredly be in the front rank of rock garden Violas. To those of my readers who know the fine yellow variety Golden Wave, I may say that Red Dawn is almost identical in every way, except in its attractive colouring. V. gracilis Golden Gondolier. — One of the most striking hybrids of the V. gracilis section we have yet raised is the variety provisionally named Golden Gondolier. It possesses the same close, dwarf habit as the cream and yellow variety Gondolier (which with its hordes of blossoms neatly set above the low foliage streaming through a big drift between the rocks makes one of the grandest drifts of blossom in the whole rock garden), which is notable for its big drifts of blossom. Golden Gondolier is very floriferous, with small, ovate leaves produced in tufts against the ground. It is far neater than gracilis itself, and, like the other mountain Violas, can with- stand drought and flourish in poor soils. The colour is a lovely clear golden yellow, without any ray markings or other colourings to mar its shining beauty. As a subject for rock massing it will prove very attractive, and will be an even more valuable plant than Golden Fleece, Golden Wave or aurea (previous gracilis fomis), all of which were raised here. Clacton-on-Sea. P. S. Hayward. 292 THE GARDEN. [June 6, i9i'4. GARDENS OF TO-DAY. LO CK IN G E. CHARMINGLY situated in a well- wooded vile of the Berkshire Downs, the gardens at Lockinge, the cotintry seat of L;idy Wantage, have for many years been famed throughout the United Kingdom not only for the wonderful examples of fruit that are annually grown there, but also for the charming flower-beds and natural glades that are to be found running parallel to the mansion. This fame is due in no I ttle mersure to the skill of the late Mr. Fyfe, who was gardener there for many years It was our good fortune, during the opening days of May, to spend a particularly pleasant week-end \vith the head-gardener, Mr. E. Harriss, and through the kindness of Lady Wantage we are able to reproduce herewith photo- graphs showing a few of the many charming features. The site at Lockinge must have been ordained by Nature to become a garden. Starting at the east end of the pleasure grounds is a vigorous spring of clear, sparkling water, which wends its way now through wooded glades and anon over rocky beds, right past the mansion, losing itself in a large ornamental lake, on the surface of which coots, wild duck and swans disport themselves. It was a great pleasure to find this natural source of beauty unspoiled by artificial attempts at embellish- ment. At various places along the stream-side suitable shrubs, such as Japanese Maples, hardy Bam- boos, Cytisus praecox and Cotone- asters, have been planted to form more or less conspicuous features in the landscape, yet with such good taste as to render them parts of the scenery itself, instead of, as is too often the case, being glaring examples of misplaced energy. The same may be said of the herbaceous plants that find a happy home either in moist beds by the streamside or among the noble rocks that overhang the banks at the steepest parts. In thi view in beds we found such simple yet delightful plants as Primroses, Forget-me-nots, Arabis, Aubrietias, May-flowering Tulips and hosts of others, all planted with judicious care so as to harmonise with their surroundings. On a rather steep plateau, overlooking the stream at its widest part and commanding a fine view under the noble Elms and Beeches that stand as sentinels over Lockinge, is the wild garden, which at the time of our visit was rendered beauti- ful by the latest of the Daffodils and the earliest of the May-flowering Tulips. These are all planted in grass, and it was interesting to note that some of the Tulips, notably Pride of Haarlem, were at least as vigorous as the first year after planting, while others showed that they would need re- plenishing. It would therefore seem that it is not an impossible task to naturalise Tulips in grass, providing the proper varieties are chosen. Along the northern front of the mansion we were j particularly charmed with a narrow border filled I with splendidly cultivated Wallflowers of several colours. At one end these were partly overhung ' by a magnificent bush of Berberis steuophylla, while near by, in a nook formed by evergreen i shrubs, were two beautiful examples of Pyrus floribunda, a Japanese Apple that ought to I be much more extensively cultivated where : flowering shrubs or trees are appreciated. On the south side we found a charming little grey stone church nestling close to the mansion, its twin gables and solid square tower forming a delightful feature in the landscape. The formal beds that are situated here were, at the time THE ROCK GARDEN AT LOCKINGE. TO THE RIGHT OF THIS IS A DELIGHTFUL STREAM OF WATER. of our visit, resplendent with Wallflowers, Violas, Forget-me-nots, Tulips and other spring flowers, the whole being so arranged as to give a pleasing and harmonious effect. Specimen plants in tubs are a great feature at Lockinge during the summer months, and although we were too early to see these in their flowering positions, we found them in the plant houses imdergoing their final hardening. Agapan- thuses. Fuchsias and that beautiful scented- leaved and rose-pink flowered Pelargonium Clorinda were a few among many that are utilised for this purpose. In the open were some remark- ably fine plants of Rose Dorothy Perkins in tubs, the healthy appearance of the Roses auguring well for a glorious display of pink festoons later on. While writing of Roses we must not forget the most charming of all, and one for which Lockinge is justly famed. We refer to Fortune's Yellow, a Rose that many find difiicult to cultivate, and the flowers of which are a glorious mixture of rose pink and old gold. There are two wonderful plants in these gardens. One, in the conservatory, has an enormous stem and scrambles in a delight- fully free and easy manner over the iron rafters of the building, where, at a height of 20 feet or more it makes wonderful garlands with its exquisite fragrant flowers. The other plant is in the corridor of the fruit houses in the kitchen garden. Although scarcely so large as that in the conservatory, it flowers more freely, and we shall ever remember the glorious sight that it presented. Truly it is a wonderful Rose — when grown as they grow it at Lockinge. In the plant houses we were pleased to find some beautiful Clarkias in pots, large colonies of Gloxinias, Coleuses, Lilies. Orchids of many kinds, Schizanthuses, a very fine lot of Malmaison and Perpetual- flowering Carnations, and a great many other plants too numerous to mention in the space at our disposal. Leaving the pleastire grounds and plant houses, we must give a passing note to the kitchen garden, in which, of course, the fruit houses are situated. It is, perhaps, in this depart- ment more than in any other that Mr. Harriss excels. Here, on May i, were Black Hamburgh Grapes ready to cut, and fine bunches at that. We should say that some of them — indeed, a good many — would have turned the scale at 31b. a bimch, and we have seen much worse examples displayed at July and August shows. Foster's Seedling and Buckland's Sweetwater were also nearly ready for cutting, while later houses contained some very fine Muscats, which had set particularly well and which had just undergone their final thinning. Peaches and Nectarines in pots, as well as the usual trees in borders, were all in excellent condition, but perhaps, next to the Grapes, the Strawberries were the most in- teresting. We do not remember seeing a better lot anywhere ; sel- dom have we found as good. The variety used mostly is Royal Sovereign, and there is no doubt that for all-round purposes it is the Strawberry to grow. Figs that were just ripening were also excellent, one fine old tree of Brown Turkey carrying a really wonderful crop. Melon Hero of Lockinge, French Beans, Peas ready for gathering, and new Potatoes of good size and quality were a few of the many other interesting features that occupied our attention here. During the past year substantial, roomy and convenient new bothies have been erected for the journeymen gardeners, an item that wUl be of interest to the many who have spent the early days of their gardening careers at Lockinge, about the gardens of which volumes might be written had we the space to devote to it. June 6, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 293 COTTAGE TULIPS. DARWIN Tulips can be defined with I very fair accuracy. Tlieir stems I are tall and strong. The lower ' portion of the flower is rectangular in outline. The petals possess con- siderable substance, and are coloured with some shade of purple, mauve, red, or pinlc. But in a few cases they are so dark as to be nearly black, and so light as to be practically white. Their bases are black, blue, or white, or some combination of the same, but never yellow. Some- thing like the above WiU, I think, be found to be the definition of a Darwin in the Tulip list wliich the Royal Horticultural Society is proposing to publish before long. All other late-flowering varieties, with the exception of the Parrots, which have laciniated petals, and the species, which are the wildings of Nature, are ipso facto Cottage. Hence the section includes all yellow-based flowers, such as Clio or Golden Bronze ; ill such dwarf ones as Glare of the Garden and Golden Crown ; all pointed-petalled and elegantly shaped beauties such as Mrs. Moon and La Merveille ; all slender, wury- stemmed forms, such as Picotee, Mrs. W. O. Wolseley and retroflexa ; all old-fashioned striped blooms like Chameleon, Columbus or Zomer- schoon ; all breeder types of other strains, such as Inglescombe Pink or Prince of Orange. Undoubtedly there are some, especially among those that fall under the last heading, that so very nearly resemble a true Darwin that the non - Tulip person will be perplexed, and I am afraid it must be so until a sort of instinctive knowledge is acquired which somehow or other teUs us at a glance in wliich category a doubt- ful one should be placed. It is a matter of history that the introduction of the wonderful Darwin strain by Messrs. E. H. Krelage and Son of Haarlem almost a quarter of a century ago did more than all else to bring the Tulip race to the prominent position in horticulture which it holds to-day. Not right away, all at once, for many of the early introductions were poor and small, and did not appeal to flower-lovers as the later and better kinds did, but it was a beginning. Cottage varieties were in the same position to some extent. Many of the best and most beautiful either had not been found or were only existing in such small quantities that neither Barr nor Hartland could put them into commerce. But they never " hit " people all at once on first sight as the Darwins did, and as they still do, and yet they have many devotees. " I am so fond of the pointed ones " is often said \o me as a visitor will stop before a bed of the rich deep crimson Mrs. W. O. Wolseley or the pale warm cherry - coloured Prince Charming or the taller and more orange shaded La Merveille. " 1 do hke these for my rooms " a lady wiU say as she stands before a mass of Picotee or retro- flexa, " they are not so stiff to arrange as those strong-stemmed ones." These two remarks give two great reasons why we cannot do without the Cottage type. We must have change. It is a law of life. The flower specialist gets it j in minute differences, the all-round person in broader diversities, such as that between pointed . and round petals, bright and paler coloured blooms, I taller and shorter height of stem. Hence Cottages are foils to the Darwins. Again, for decoration in vases the more graceful varieties must always hold their own wherever they can be home grown, for I freely allow that many of the prettiest and . most graceful are not such travellers as Clara I Butt or Mr. Farncombe Sanders, and can never ! be market flowers, as they are. These we must I grow ourselves, and if we can only give them a [ bed or two in the kitchen garden, we may always have them, once we have piurchased the bulbs, provided we look after them. I am, however, forgetting that my original intention was to because of its height and size is a conspicuous feature. Many have said it is their favourite of the yellows. On a dull day I suppose the Tulip of all others that is most frequently selected as the one sort that " / must have " is the charming warm buff pink Mrs. Kerrell. It is exceedingly lovely, not only in colour, but in shape. Ingles- combe Pink is a Tulip of much the same shade. This year it has been more taking even than usual, as the pink tone has persisted for a long period. It is a fairly tall grower with a conventional flower. Orange King, which has very straight- looking petals, is a beautiful orange with a pink or rose flush all over them. It is a singularly effective bloom, and although there was not a very large patch of it, it usually caught people's eyes. Now that it can be had at about 2s. to 2s. 6d. per dozen, it ought to be more used than it was in its dearer days. Salaman, a tall, Darwin- like plant, with fine silvery mauve blooms, was FORMAL FLOWER-BEDS ALONG THE SOUTH FRONT OF LOCKINGE. describe some of my garden favourites of the present year. A good deal depends on the weather. If tlie day is bright and sunny, Louis XIV. is almost invariably singled out with very often a remark like this : " What a lovely dress those colours would make ! " The deep rich purple, with the rich brown edging of the petals, is very fine indeed. The large tortoiseshell comb coloured Gondvink and the rich amber Golden Bronze (syn. Toison d'Or) are always good in bright Ught, and are seldom passed by unnoticed. For a long time I have in my own mind coupled these together with the beautiful nicely baked biscuit brown Clio as the best of all the brown-yellow shades ; now, however, I must add Prince Albert, a sort of pointed Gondvink, and Coridion (not, please remember, the Darwin Corydon — the names are sometimes muddled), which has a warm rosy grey petal with a broad edge of buff, and which to be found in three places. It was greatly aamired. I myself am inclined to put it at the head of all of this tone of colour, be they Darwins or Cottage. The brilliant scarlet Marksman and the rather dull orange red Fairy or Panorama both had many admirers, and can be confidently recom- mended as Ai garden plants. Of the striped kinds. Chameleon is the one most frequently picked out. Unfortunately, it is a very slow increaser, and its curious but attractive heliotrope, maroon and yellow colouring will never be very common in gardens. I am glad to say that there are plenty of low-priced varieties that can quite hold their own with those more expensive ones which I have already alluded to. Such are Isabella (no end of people asked its name), Picotee, Golden Crown (an immense favourite). La Merveille, Inglescombe Pink, gesneriana lutea. Fairy Queen, 294 THE GARDEN. [June 6, 1914. COLOURED PLATE. PLATE 1495. T CYTISUS PPLffiCOX AND JUNIPERS EFFECTIVELY GROUPED WHERE THE STREAM ENTERS THE LAKE. A NEW DWARF RHODO- DENDRON. R. INTRICATUM. I HE accompanying coloured plate depicts one of the most distinct of the new- Rhododendrons intro- duced by Mr. E. H. Wilson from China. Messrs. James Veitch received seeds from him in 1904, and three years later — on April 2, igoy — the Royal Horticultural Society gave the plant a first-class certificate under the name of R. nigro-punctatum. From the true R. nigro-punctatum the subject of the coloured plate is readily distinguished by the short stamens ; and while R. intricatum is in full flower at the end of March and early in April, R. nigro-punc- tatum flowers in May, and has fewer flowers in a truss. R. intricatum is a dwarf alpine shrub common in the Tachien-lu district of Western Szechuen at 11,000 feet to 15,000 feet elevation, v/here the plants attain a height of 2 feet to 3 feet. Comparatively slow SEASONABLE NOTES ON AURICULAS. in growth and forming neat little gesueriana spathulata, Didieri alba and Primrose 1 especially during the period in which the old 1 compact evergreen bushes, this is one of tl.e best. Beauty, each of them good and to be found in flower-spikes are being picked out, as it sometimes j if not the best of all the dwarf-growing RhodO' the usual lists. Joseph Jacob. happens that water accumulates at the base and __^_^__^__^^^^_^_^_^^__ causes the rot to set in. If this is noticed in the I early stages, and a little powdered charcoal or sulphur is applied at once, no harm will accrue. In growing Auriculas I always arrange the alpines in one frame and the show varieties in another, because during the stmimer and autumn months .,,_,, ^ ^, ^ , the lights are removed as much as possible, both A NY plants that were not repotted last j j • u.. t ■ j ^u f ■ \^- l\ ^, ^ , . '^ day and night. I never mmd the alpmes gettmg / « month must now be given attention, , x t, j • ^u i.^ -tu ..■. I \ .. :i :. .j_.;„_^,- r_ .,, , , 1^ '6™ showers of rain on them, but with the NY plants that were not repotted last month must now be given attention, as it is advisable for all such work to be accomplished by the end of June, excepting, of course, those plants that may have been selected fur bearing seed. These ought never to suffer for lack of moisture at the roots, or the seed will not be of good quality and germination will be slow. The hot months of the year are somewhat trying for Auriculas, and wherever possible a cool position should be chosen. If ordinary wooden frames which can be easily moved about are employed, no difficulty will be experienced in finding a congenial spot. In most gardens there is generally a north wall sufficiently high to protect the plants from strong sunlight, and such a position is ideal for Auriculas throughout the summer months. General Treatment.— The plants that were potted first are now beginning to root nicely, and may receive water at more frequent intervals ; but till they reach that stage only enough should be given to maintain the foliage in a rigid con- dition. They will, in all probability, lose a few of the lower leaves, which must be removed directly they will part easily from the stem, and the same remark applies to the old flower-stalks, which will soon begin to turn yellow and gradually wither iip. The collection ought to be gone over occasionally and the plants carefully examined. dendrons for the rockery and alpine garden. The small, oval leaves are a quarter of an inch to two-thirds of an inch long, and half as wide, dark green above, white beneath, freely clothed on both surfaces with shining brown scales. The flowers are in terminal clusters of three to six blooms, about half an inch across, and very freely produced. Lavender blue will perhaps best describe the dainty shade of colour. When in flower the neat little bushes are very attrac- show kinds it is not advisable, on account of j tive, almost suggestive of a bunch of Violets in many of them being covered with farina ; hence the distance. At Kew this year several very the advantage of providing them with separate beautiful plants were to be seen effectively frames. : grouped near King William's Temple, and these Cleanliness. — One of the most important i >vere a source of great interest to visitors, factors in Auricula culture is cleanliness, and Seeds and cuttings provide ready means of directly any green fly is seen, the frames should increase. The best time to insert the cuttings be vaporised without further delay ; while an is in late summer, when the young shoots are occasional fumigation will kill all the woolly aphis i partially mature. Use sandy peat and plunge that may be clustering around the necks of the plants. Another most destructive pest is the caterpillar, a similar insect to that we meet with on the Cabbage tribe. It is only troublesome at this time of the year, and is usually found under- neath the leaves. If the attack is a mild one, the insects may be picked off ; but should they be at all numerous, fumigation is the only effectual remedy. They must be exterminated at once, cr the plants will be rendered unsightly for several months. Additions to the Collection. — No doubt the enthusiast has paid a visit to one of the Auricula shows and noted any that took his fancy ; but the following are desirable sorts, and are worthy of a place in any collection : Alpines — Admiration, Majestic, Dazzle, Ettrick, Golden Dustman, Miss Berkeley and Edith Winn. Show — Daffodil, Harrison Weir. Bellona, Marmion, Prince Charming and Rifleman. T. W. Briscoe. the pots in a propagating-frame with slight bottom-heat. The tiny plants commence to flower when only a few inches in height. Their rate of growth is comparatively slow. Plants seven years old from cuttings, though forming freely branched bushes, are not yet a foot in height. R. fastigiatum is a closely allied specif s, also from China, recently introduced by Mr. G. Forrest. The flowers are similar in colour to R. intricatum, but it has distinct protruding stamens, flowers a month later, and the leaves are ovate-lanceolate. This must be one of the quickest Rhododendrons to flower from seeds, plants from a sowing in the spring of igii flowering fifteen or sixteen months later in the autumn of 1912. A plant exhibited by Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, Kent, received an award of merit from the Royal Horticultural Society on April 7 this year. The average height of mature plants is said to be from i foot to 2 feet. Supplement to TtlPL GARDEN, June 6th, 1914. RHODODENDRON INTRICATUM A New Dwarf Species for the Rock Garden. Hudson & Ke.inis, L'-ii , Priiileis, Lot.don, S.E. o June 6, 1914. THE GARDEN. 295 FURTHER NOTES ON PEAT " ROCK GARDENS." IN fulfilment of the promise 1 gave in my article upon peat " rockworks ** which appeared in The Garden of April i8 last, I now give a list of plants tried, or upon trial, in them ; but before doing so I should like to deal with such queries of general interest as have b^en put to me by readers of The Garden. By the " top spit " of the bog I meant that portion of the top of the bog upon which the Heather grows. This, when dug out with a sharp spade and the Heather or other growth trimmed off, not only looks much better than the slabs of peat cut from the interior of the bog, but also retains its shape. The soft slabs of peat are hable to crack in dry weather and to wear away with continual rain, whereas the roots of the Heather in the " top spit " hold it together and prevent cracking and wearing. " Loose peat " is the litter — from dust to lumps the size of one's fist — which is found in and around where peat is cut for fuel, and the more fibrous it is the better. The use of dried peat (which one obtains for stable litter) has been suggested to me, but I would not advise it. It is very dry and hard. As regards the question of peat obtained from limestone districts, I do not think that traces of lime in the peat are a serious drawback. Although Azaleas may not like peat from a lime- stone district, I find that the majority of alpines are not so particular in this respect. I have Campanula alpestris (C. AUionii) and other " lime haters " quite happy in limestone moraines. As to the proportions of the mixtures in the special pockets, I do not think one can lay down a hard-and-fast rule. It is a matter for one's own judgment, influenced to a certain extent by a few general principles : (i) Plants of naturally strong growth, such as Campanulas, will not need any addition to the peat soil. { 2 ) Plants of slow growth and those requiring light soil in shade like an addition of leaf-mould. (3) Heat-lovers should have a little leaf-mould and a good deal of sand. (4) Primulas and moisture-lovers like an addition of loam, and prefer the loose peat to be not too fine. They especially like to root into good-sized lumps of peat as big as one's fist. I have a level bed in almost full sun in which Primula pulverulenta, P. Munroi, P. Unique, &c., live quite comfortably squatting upon lumps of peat without artificial watering. (5) Haberleas, Ramondias and such plants seem to prefer the cracks and joins between the soUd peat blocks, and, when once established in them, will bear an amount of sun that would surprise anyone who hitherto has confined them to the shadiest rocks. I am under the impression that Ramondias flower much better if they are so placed that they can get a little sun . without undue scorching. They certainly flower much earlier, and by varying their situation one can prolong their period of flowering. As regards the " slopes " and " pockets," Lliese on the sunny side should be almost level if they are to retain moisture in the summer, while upon the shady sides the fall should be sharp to enable the excessive winter rains to run off. It is an advantage to build your peatwork as soon as possible after the receipt of the large blocks from the bog. They are then fresh and moist, and if, as they are built up, their edges are care- fully pressed together and any cracks packed tightly with soft peat of the consistency of cream clieese, the blocks will almost invariably knit together, and the whole cliff will assume the appearance of a solid block. A correspondent suggests utiUsing peat blocks cut for fuel, but these have obvious disadvantages. They are small {the blocks should be about a yard square), dry and non-fibrous, and I should think much more expensive to buy. I have received numerous queries as to cost, but these I find the most difficult to answer. As a rule, there is not much difficulty in obtaining the top spit and the refuse loose peat from bogs cut for fuel. Both are practically useless to the fuel cutter, and can be obtained for very little beyond the price of cartage. This, of course, varies with the locahty ; but in any case the price of the cartage must compare very favourably with that of soil or stones. The peat is so light that' horses can pull a load of peat blocks which would cover a space three or four times larger, than any load of rocks they could draw. The following list includes all plants put on the peatworks up to the present planting season. Where no letters are added, they are growing in pm:e peat. Where they are growing in mixtures, the letters S, L and M have been added to indicate that either sand, leaf -mould or mould (loam) has been mixed with the peat. In addition, it must be understood that plants liking sun and also moisture {such as Gentiana vcrna and Ranunculi) have stone chips — a few round the roots and others scattered upon the surface — to prevent too rapid evaporation. Campiiuulfi pull.-t ,. pulloides ,, alaskana ,, valdensLs ,, Hostii ,, turbinata garganica Arabis stricta, S for all ,, turrlta , , alpina , , androsacca ,, Sturli ,, blepharophylla Arnohia echioides, SL Andromeda tetrajiona Androsace Leichtlini, S ,, carnea ,, Chumbyi, S Asperula subcrosa, S Alyssnm alpinum, S .. citrinum ,, gemonense Aquilegia cspnik'U ., flabcllata ., formosa An;naria montaiia , , verna , . csBspitosa Anemone valdeni^ip, L , , blanda ,, Allenii ., Halleri, SL ,, miiltifida ,, alpina ,, oregona ,, burseriana ,, fnt«rmedia ,, robinsoniaii.i., L ,, sylvestris major Armeria Cephalotos ,, csespitosa Azalea molhs ., rosaeflora Allium acuminatum, S ,, cyaneum ., Nevii Belllum bellidioides Bryanthus empetriformis ,, glanduliformis Borago laxiflora Brodisea grandiflora, S Codonopsis ovata, SL ,, grandiflora, SL Caltha polysepala, M ,, leptosepala, M Campanula azurea ,, Leutweinii ,, macrorhiza ,, ceespitosa ,, carpatioa ,, pusilla , , raddeana ,, acutangula ,, sarmentosa C>i:isus purpurea Conandron rainondioides, L Convolvulus althseoidea, Si, Clintonia uniflora Calypso borealis, LM Claytonia asarifolia Carlina acaulis. L Castillea acuminata, L Douylasia lavigata, Sl> Daphne odorata ,, blagayana ,, Cncorum Dianthus deltoid^s ,, superbus ,, crucntus Erica varictic^s Erysimum pnlchelhiin Erodium Relchardi, SL ,, trichomanarfolium, S ,, hybridum Eriogonum umbcllatum, S Erigeron mucronatus ,, intermedia ,, salsuginosus ,, Andersoni, S ErythTonium minor, L ,, Sraithii ,, grandiflora Goodyera Jlenziesii, L Gentiana verna, L ,, acaulis ,, Walujewi, M ,, Olivieri, M ,, Kesselringi, M ,. tibctica, M ,, Clusii, M ,, excisa, M ,, Froelichii, SL ,, sceptrum, L ,, septemfida, L ,, asclepiadea Galax aphylla Geranium Traversi, S ,, lancastriense , , striata Gerardia tcnuifolia Gaultheria ovalifolium ,, Shallou Haberlea rhodopensis, L Hypericum repens, S A STREAMSIDE VIEW IN LADY WANTAGE'S GARDENS. 296 THE GARDEN. June 6, 1914. Hypericum reptans, S Hepaticas Houstonia serpyllifolia, SL Il>erts gibraltarica, S Jeftersonia diphylla, SL ,, dubia, SL Xris tectorum, S Lychnis Sartori Lippia canescens, S Lithospormum oleoides. SL for all Froebeli prostratum rosmarinifoliuni purpureum-caeruleum graminifolium intermedium ,, ZoUingieri Linarifl hepaticsefolia ,, origanlfolia Llnnsa canadense, L Lindeloflii spectabilis Lvsichitum kamschatkonse, M Mazns Pumilio „ rugosus Meconopsis cambrica fl.-pl. ,, aculeata, L „ Wallichii, L „ integrifolia, L Myosotis Ruth Fischer ,, azorica , , rupicola „ Rheisteineri ,, Wehvitschei, S Mertensia echioides „ elongata ,, virginica ,, elegans ,, primuloides „ p. chitralensis ,, paniculata , , sibirica Mimulus radicans ,, primuloides „ ringens, M ,, alsinoides „ masculosus vars., M Noccaea aipina Ouri&ia coccinea „ macrophylla Omphalodes \erna ,, nitida „ cappadocica, SL Onosma albo-rosea, SL Oxalis floribunda ,, enncaphylla, SL ,, e. rosea ,, adenophylla, SL Orobus cyaneijs Ranunculus myssanua „ gramineus ,, amplexicaulis „ parnassifolius ,, kernsrianue, L ,, anemonoides, L Saxifraga ascendcns ,, aquatica , , retusa ,, sarraentosa, S „ reflexa, S ,, cltrina, S ,, muscoides varieties ,, cymosa, SL ,, nevadensis, SL ,, biternata ,, coniferffi ,, apiculata, SL ,, burseriana, S ,, brunoniana, S ,, Blairii, S ,, aconitifoiia ,, mutata ,, Haussmanni , , aspera ,, LyalUi , , cernua „ granulata ,, nivalis „ rufldula Saxiiraga integrifolia ,, illacina, SL ,, Aizoou lutea, S „ -A. rosea, S Sedum spathuhfolium ,, pulchellum „ pilosum, S Semper\'i\'um robustura, S Silene Schafta ,, monochorum Sanguinaria canadensis, L Shortia palacifolia, SL Synthyris reniformis, S Spiranthes Romanzoffla, L Smilacina stellaia Streptoptis amplexifolius Trillium grandidorum Tanakea radicans Tulipa kaufmanniana. L Trollius varieties Viola gracilis ,, declinata ,, Elatior, S ,, munbyana ,, cornuta ,, olympica , , florairensis ,, septentrionalis L ,, rothomagensis ,, ciiculata, M FORGET-ME-NOTS (MYOSOTIS ALPESTRIS) NATURALISED IN THE WOODLAND. Globus vernus Giinothera rhizocarpa J , mexicana „ marginata Papaver pilosum, S ,, rupifragum, S Pentstemon Menziohiii, SL ,, puboscens pyumsea Pratia angulata ,, ilicifolia Phlox subulata varieties Polemonium hybridum ,, roseum Primula bulleyana, M for all ., Lissadell x ,, pulverulent* . . beesiana .. cockburniana ,, caslimeriana , , pseudo-capitata ,, capitata ,, capitellata ,, kaufmanniana, L ,, llttoniana, SL ., Sueptltzi ,, involucratu , , sibirica ,, slkkimensis ,, cortusoides Primula deflexa, SL ,, giraldiana, SL „ Heeri „ Eltheri ,, ciliata varieties ,, Auricula varieties ,, bibora, L ,, minima, L ,, Floerkeana, L ,, Peyritschii Parocaryum angustifolium Parnassia flmbriata, M Polygala Cnamaibuxus ,, VayredsB Potentilla ambigua, S ,, Tonguei, S ,, Miss Willmott ,, glabra, S ,, nevadensis, S Paronychia serpyllifolium Ramondia varieties IU)scoea purpurea, SL ,, cautlioides, SL RomanzoflBa sitchcnsiti Rubus pedatns Ranunculus Flammula, M ,, glacially, M ,, crenatus ,, rutffifolius Viola bosniaea, S ,, adunca ,, glabella, M ,, ■ sarmentosa, S ,, palustris, M ,, atlanlica Veronica Whittallli ,, circffioides , , canterburyensis ,, X Autumn Glory Knapton, Abbey Leix, Veronica edenensis ,, tellimoides, S ,, fllifolia, S ,, repens ,, balfouriana ,, Bidwillii ,, Hectori ,, decumbens ,, cupressoides Murray Hornibrook. Ireland. BEAUTIFUL DWARF PHLOX. A One of the most attractive herbaceous plants at the present time is Lapham's Phlox, P. divaricata Laphamii. The soft blue flowers are borne in great profusion from i foot to i8 inches high, and it is worthy of a place in all gardens. Grown in a mass, it reminds one of a large cluster of blue Plumbago. GOLD MEDAL ROSES. HAVING met with many disappoint- ments after a full and fair trial, I have looked up the list of new Roses that gained the gold medal of the National Rose Society since that honour was offered. It is recognised, both at home and abroad, that no other award surpasses, or even equals, this ; and yet I find no fewer than fifteen winning varieties that are not even mentioned in the last extensive list of Roses issued by the National Rose Society ! Up to 1908 they have discarded from the most extensive list published in Great Britain no fewer than fifteen of our premier gold medal Roses, and I venture to assert that some of the fifty-two gold medal holders that have won since that time will before long join the great majority, so far as general culture is concerned. The following are the fiiteen not included in the official list of the National Rose Society ; but I must honestly say a few of them are really good, if not sufficiently so to have satisfied the large catalogue com- mittee : Sir Rowland Hill, Salaman- der, Ulster, Marchioness of Dufferin, Marchioness of Downshire, Marchioness of Londonderry, Purity, Mrs. James Cocker, Sunrise, Alice Lindsell, Ben Cant, Duchess of Portland, Queen Alexandra, Edith D'ombrain and Mrs. Campbell Hall. Many that are still retained in the official catalogue are of very little use, except to provide an occasional bloom for the exhibitor. 1 doubt even if Edith D'ombrain exists, except in two or three gardens besides that of the raiser or introducer. No one else catalogues it so far as I can discover. Then we have such virulent mildew breeders as Mildred Grant, Queen of Spain, Bessie Brown, His Majesty and Her Majesty among the gold medal holders, six of the very worst as regards that disease. There are many winners of silver- silt medals and cards of commen- dation at the meetings of our very deserving society (for which I have the greatest respect) that are not catalogued and are but little grovm. What am I driving at ? Well, let us be more careful, and if not possessed of plenty of money, time and ground, confine ourselves more to the numerous well-tried and proved Roses that are better worth the high prices asked, and which we can obtain at cheaper rates. Some of the new and lauded improvements are priced at los. 6d., 7s. 6d. and 5s., while one was sent out at 21s. a plant. Upon most occasions, too, these are by no means strong or vigorous plants, and take some time to become established. Good ground plants of the finest varieties can be obtained at gd. and is. each now, and I am only warning beginners against the folly of imagining they have something so superbly better in our newer Roses, while at the same time admitting that many of them are real gems that have certainly come to stay. Let us wait and see. Wc are not hard driven for good Roses. Sussex A. P. June 6, 1914.J THE GARDEN. 297 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. SUGGESTIONS FOR SUMMER FLOWER-BEDS. Opinions in reference to methods or plans of bed- ding out may possibly long continue to vary in a more or less degree, but I venture to think that the associated with Tulips, and Wallflowers and Polyanthuses. on vacant ground in the shrubbery borders, and sow freely in the wild garden and ■ woodland. Once sown in favourable surroundings, self-sown seedlings come up in quantity annually. In small n company with Varieties.— Several species and a considerable Scatter the seeds number of varieties are grown in gardens. The one SUGGESTED DESIGN FOR A SLOPING FOR DETAILS. BORDER. SEE TEXT majority, at any rate, of amateur gardeners have come to the conclusion that the once general (I had almost said universal), and therefore favourite, because fashionable, formal " straight- line " system is not the most pleasing, because, generally speaking, not the most artistic, the result being the opposite of restful to sensitive tempera- ments. In the matter of laying out our gardens there is no doubt that the nearer the approach to the ways of Nature herself, the more satisfactory all-roimd results shall we obtain. It is, of course, admitted at once that the " straight-row " method is the easiest to arrange ; but this being practically its only recommendable point, the present-day gardener who wishes for quality in arrangement, as well as in culture, of his plants will not grudge a little extra time in introducing his own individu- ality into his beds and borders. This is really the burden of the suggestions contained in this article, for probably no given plan will meet the desires or requirements of any in every respect. A practical illustration or two, however, may possibly serve some useful purpose as a sort of basis, alterations and variations from which, both in form and flower, can be made to suit individual tastes. Fig. I is a suggestion of double-lace pattern for a sloping border, the back rows of which could be composed of, say. Marguerites in two shades of colour, and the front rows planted with duplex shades of Nemesia, care being, of course, taken to choose well-blending colours in every case of intermingling. In the front gaps Violas could be planted — one colour in each space — and a half- standard Fuchsia placed in the centre dot spaces. In Fig. 2 the central triangular line could ' be composed of Nicotiana hybrids, with early ; flowering Cosmos in the three dot spaces. The next cross-over rows might consist of two colours of Antirrhinums, the front being edged with Ten- week Stocks, and Lobelia used as a border. Fig. 3 is illustrative of a style which can, of course, be filled according to taste, each space marked out representing a bed of one variety, I with dot plants of taller growth placed in the backgroimd, and having a border of some dwarf I species. B. W. Lewis. illustrated on page 296 is M. alpestris ; the early Forget-me-not is M. dissitiflora; the common Forget- me-not, M. palustris ; and the Wood Forget-me-not, M. sylvatica. These are the best for the pleasure grounds and shrubberies. Then for the flower- town and suburban gardens Forget- | beds the seedsmen have given much time and me-nots may be used to brighten up thought to the raising of improved varieties, what are otherwise rather dull comers These include Perfection, bright blue, rose, and where few plants will thrive, such, ; white ; Victoria, erect growing and freely branched, for instance, as the sunless damp : sold in three colours, blue, white, and rose ; Royal north border, tufts among hardy j Blue, a lovely dark indigo blue ; Star of Love (Love Star), dwarf, bright blue ; Dwarf Blue (nana compacta) ; and Dwarf White, useful for edgings to beds and borders. Myosotis In Pots.— To decorate the greenhouse from Christmas onwards and to supply a few cut flowers for decoration in midwinter, seedsmen have been working on a special strain of Forget- me-nots for pot culture. The plants may be grown in a frame and cold greenhouse, but are better if the greenhouse is just heated sufficiently to keep out frosts. Sow the seeds in a frame during June. Grow three plants in a triangular fashion in a 5-inch pot and place in a cold frame till November, when they should be moved to the greenhouse shelf. The seeds are usually sold under the name of the Pot Myosotis. Ferns, and the shady front garden. The pale blue Myosotis alpestris is very popular at Kew, where it is freely used to carpet the ground beneath deciduous shrubs, one particularly effective com- bination being a bed of the pale pink-flowered Tamarisk (Tamarix tetrandra) above the blue- flowered Myosotis. Another lovely contrast is a DESIGN FOR A SUMMER BED BOLD EFFECT. TO CREATE A bed of Myosotis and tall yellow Tulips, Mrs. Moon or Parisian Yellow, for instance. Time to Sow. — June is the month to sow Forget-me-not seeds. Sow where the plants are to flower, or on a spare piece of ground from which the seedlings can be transplanted in Septem- AGAPANTHUSES FOR THE OUT- DOOR GARDEN. These attractive blue-flowering plants, so often grown in tubs for standing on terraces and walks, may now be removed from their winter quarters and placed in the open. Old- established plants will benefit by top-dressing, previous to which a quantity of the surface soil may be removed. During the season they should be frequently watered with liquid manure. CALCEOLARIA MRS. GLADSTONE. Although Calceolarias of the bedding class are not nearly so much required as they were a few years ago, when they were frequently employed, they are still essential in many gardens, and anything out of the usual run of colouring or appearance in other respects is appreciated. One of the finest we have ever seen is a most effective variety called Mrs. Gladstone. It originated in the Vale of Leven, where Self- it was raised by an amateur, and it has been greatly V 7^ T- -/.. -T^ -.- FORGET-ME-NOTS FROM SEEDS. I Every garden should contain Forget-me-nots. I They are among the daintiest of spring flowers, J and very easy to grow successfully. The plants I will thrive and blossom freely in moist soils and 1 positions in sim, and where not too heavily shaded I if the ground is moist. Use the Forget-me-not lor Myosotis freely in the spring bedding schemes -A' i .<- ber or October to the flowering positions, sown seedlings and those sown where they are to flower should be thinned to allow the plants to attain their full size and beauty. Naturalised in the wild garden and woodland, thin- ning is seldom attempted ; but in the garden proper the reward of liberal thinning is seen in larger, more vigorous plants, freely branched and covered with good- sized flowers. When planting Myosotis in beds admired wherever seen. This Slipperwort has and borders, set them out 3 inches to ' large flowers of crimson, deeply margined with 4 inches apart. Though, as previously noted, gold, while its height is a foot to 15 mches or Forget-me-nots thrive in most soUs, it pays to 18 inches. It is almost hardy, and the shelter of give the ground a dressing of manure previous a cold frame is quite sufBcient for it m ordinary to planting, or a watering with liquid manure winters. It is found most valuable in some of A BORDER WHERE PLANTS SHOULD BE CENTRAL SPACES. MASSED IN THE at the beginning of April, when the flower-spikes are pushing up. the Glasgow parks, such as in the old garden of Ibrox Hill in Bellahouston Park. 298 THE GARDEN. [June 6, 1914. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. Midseason Vines.— In well-drained borders these Vines wni now require liberal supplies of water and some stimulant must be given to en- courage the growth of large berries. It is well to va^ the stimulant from time to time and alway guSd against overdoing it. Promote a mo'^t Itmosphere and a free circulation of air while the weTher is favourable. Thin out lateral growth To That the foliage may not become overcrowded. Late Vineries.— All late Grapes should be thinned as soon as possible, and when this has been accomplished the borders should be lightly pricked over and a good watermg of manure- water from the farmyard given, and after a few riavsa mulching of decayed manure should be applied Ventilation must'have careful attention, especiallv in the early morning. _ Earlv Peach and Nectarines Trees in Pots.— Most of the fruits will have been gathered from early trees which will require careful attention m order 0 prepare them for next season's forcing Remove he trees to their summer quarters, and allow plenty of space between them. Do not aUow them to suffer from want of moisture at the roots, and syringe the foliage frequently in dry weather EarT/ permanent trees should also receive liberal treatment. Remove all worthless growth which s norrequired for next season s work, and use the syrmge freely among the foliage to keep it in a c^ean, healthy condition, the ventilators bemg left open night and day. -iU be completed towards the end of October, and the midrib of the leaf, which is the portioD to be cooked, ^vill be ready for use. EDITORIAL NOTICES. Eceri/ department of horticulture is represented in The Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in giiestions relating to matters up^n which they ivish expert advice. The Editor ivelcomes pJtotographs. articles and notes, but he vrill not be responsible for their safe return. All reasonable care, hoivever, will be taken, and where stamps are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted contributions. As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated. It must be distinrth/ understood that inibi the actual photo- grapher or owner of the copyright irill he treated uiih. The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic or literari/ contributions uhich fie may not he able to use. and the receipt ot a proof must not be taken as eitdcMe that an article is accepted. PublicMion in THE Garden ivill alone be recoqnis d ^ acceptance. Offices : '20, Tavis'.ock Street, Covent Oardin, W.C MISCELLANEOUS. YELLOW AND BROWN MUSTARD SEED (F. Z.).— There are two kinds of Mustard grown for commercial jmrposes, Brassica alba and B. nigra. The seeds of the former are yellow, wliiic those of the latter are brownish. The seeds of the two kinds are usually mixed before grinding for commercial mustard, but when ground separately the seeds of B. nigra produce a much darker powder than those of B. alba. LARV/E OF WINTER MOTH (E. J. H.).— The grubs are the larvje of the winter moth. This insect attacks a large variety of trees, and all the fruit trees are subject to its atta.ck. It would be well to spray the trees imme- diately with lead arsenate solu'ion, martn according 1o the directions furnished with the material as bought from the sundriesmen. This spray material, which is, of courEc, very poisonous, should be purchased in the paste form. SOIL PESTS (Rev. W. E.O.).— \\e think your best [ilan will be to make hole? at intervals cf a yard on botU .■^ijes of the row of Sweet Peas and about nine inches to twelve inches away from the plants, and pour into each a tcaspoonfui of carbon bisulphide. The holes ought t( be about eight inches or nine inches deep, and should be covered in immediately the liquid is poured in. Tlie fumes will then dilfuse in the soil and kill the insects uithout damaging the roots of the Sweet Peas. It is important to keep the liquid, which is very deadly to animal life, af far as possible from r. light, even that of a glowing cigar, as it is extremely inttammable, though Ihc temptation to smoke while using it is great, owing- to its evil odour, NAMES OF PLANTS.— ii'. W. A.—l, Heuchera win guinea ; 2, Asperula odorata. IF. E. P. — Scilla peruviana. Mrs. Sartorius. — 1. Rubus deliciosus ; 2, Prunua cerasifera. Good Busb^nd^ West Riding. — 1^ Phlox amoena ; 2. Sedum roseum. F. M., Bucks. — Veronica gentianoides,— ^H. B. — 1. Spirsea van Houttei| 2. Polygonatum biflorum ; 3, Saxifraga caualieulata; 4, Fuchsia, garden variety ; 5, Phyllocactus A(kermannii; 6. Iris pallida. C. R. W., Comwidl. — Tricuspidaria dt'pendcns, syn. Crinodendron hiokerianum. GARDEN. ^dsi^ -^5'— y^ No. 2221— Vol. LXXVIII. June 13, 1914. NOTES OF THE WEEK. I New Fellows of the Royal Horticultural Society. — At the meeting of the above society held on Wednesday, the 3rd inst., 230 new Fellows were elected. We understand that this number has only been exceeded once before. Roses and Clematises. — A very charming effect can be obtained by planting the Moimtain Clematis, C. montana, and the beautiful Rose Carmine Pillar so that they may ramble together at will. The instance we have in mind is where they have been growing for some years over an old Ivy-covered summer-house in a wild, carelt'ss way without receiving any attention. The Iris Border at Clandon. — irises have long been a feature of the beauti- ful gardens at Clandon Park, Surrey, and seldom has the Iris border looked better than at the present time. The border runs by the side of a lake. Iris sibirica and its varieties are grown by the lakeside with their roots in water, while those Irises belonging to the germanica, pallida, squalens and flavesccns sections are now freely flowering in the border. One remark- able feature of the border is that in the great wealth of bloom some varieties are flowering that have not done so for years. The Burning Bush. — This interest- ing plant, known by the botanical name of Dictamnus Fraxinella, is one of the most striking and interesting herbaceous plants in flower at the present time. Its stately, erect spikes of either white or purplish flowers stand out very conspicuously. The hot, dry weather does not in the least affect either flowers or leaves, and they will remain fresh for some time either growing or cut. Apart from this, the plant does not grow to any great size, which is an advantage for small gardens. It is an excellent subject for naturalising in the wild garden, and derives its common name from the fact that in the evening, after a very hot day, frmies are given off, which will sometimes ignite when a lighted match is held just over the plant. A Beautiful Dwarf Pink. — One of the most attractive features in the rock garden at Kew just now is a colony of Pink Spencer Bickham. The plagts are situated by the steps leading from the Orchid-houses, and are creating quite a blaze of colour. This variety was raised some years ago by crossing the Cheddar Pink (Dianthus caesius) with the Maiden Pink (D. deltoides). The flowers in size and shape resemble those of the first-named parent, but are of a much more brilliant rose colour. It is a Pink that ought to be much better known than it is. In common with most others of its race, it needs well-drained soil, but beyond that does not present any serious cultural difficulties. An Uncommon Hardy Annual. — Why is it that Collomia coccinea is so seldom seen in ^THE IRIS BORDER AT CLANDON PARK. gardens ? Just now we have a number of self- sown plants that withstood the winter, and each has made quite a small bush from 12 inches to 15 inches- high and nearly as much in diameter. Each shoot is terminated by a cluster of vermilion red blossoms, which resemble very much in appear- ance those of the smaller- flowered Bouvardias. From past experience we know that the plants will continue the display over a long period, and will produce seed freely and so perpetuate themselves. This hardy annual will thrive in almost any kind of soil, and we commend it to those of our readers who appreciate dainty flowers. It is interesting to find a native of Chili with- standing our winters. Rose Conrad F. Meyer. — What a glorious Rose this hybrid rugosa is ! Anyone who wants a strong-growing variety to scramble over trellis or rustic poles, or to climb the side of the dwelling- house, should make a note of it now to plant next autumn. We have had a young bush flowering for the last month, its large, full, silvery pink flowers being produced in abun- dance. As these emit the true old- fashioned Rose perfume, and that in bountiful degree, we have no hesitation in proclaiming it one of the best pillar or rambling Roses. It is also good in the autumn. Dwarf Flowering and Berried Shrubs. — The Pemettyas are attractive shrubs, and are worthy of notice for the beauty of their berries during the winter months. But apart from the fruits they are worthy of recpgnition at the present time, when they are laden with their small, Lily-of-the- Valley-like flowers. Owing to the waxy texture of the blossoms, they remain in good condition for a long time if small sprays are gathered and placed in water just as the blossoms are about to expand. The purity of the blossoms makes a striking contrast to the reddish colour of the bark and i] the dark green of the mature foliage. Pernettyas are well worthy of a place .'i among flowering shrubs, and will suc- '-{ ceed in any soil providing it is free ;| from lime. s A Charming Bramble for the Rock Garden. — Rubus arcticus, the beautiful alpine Raspberry, is an excellent little plant for a damp, shady spot. Although one of the smallest of the genus, only growing from 5 inches to 6 inches high, it is one of the most attractive with its rosy purple flowers, each the size of a shilling. It is very free, both in growth and in the production of flowers, and a smajl piece will soon form a large mass. Apart from its attractive flowers, the fruit is also very ornamental when produced in quantity, as well as being nutritious, for Linn^us in his " Flora Lapponica " states that often, when he was sinking with hunger and fatigue, he was revived by the wine from these berries, and some people in the North of Sweden make a syrup, a jelly and a wine from them. 302 THE GARDEN. [June 13, 1914. CORRESPONDENCE. [The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents.) Draba (Petrocallis) pyrenaica.— Surely the note in The Garden of May 23 about this nice alpine is belated, and [therefore misleading. " Just now it is opening its flowers " ; with me they are over. It begins to flower in the first week of April ; in the third week it is sometimes so closely set with them that hardly a leaf is visible. At the present time it is a bright green cushion. — Herbert Maxwell, Mcnreith. (At the time the note referred to was written, i.e., May 18, this plant was in full flower in several gardens in the London district. — En.l Hardy Cypripediums. — In the inter- esting article on this subject (page 271) " W. I." does not mention Cypripedium mandschuricum (a beautiful C. Calceolus with big flowers), C. microsaccos (with brown and pink flowers), and the three beautiful varieties of C. ventricosum, C. V. album, C. v. lutescens and C. v. roseum. These three varieties are far the best of all the hardy Cypripediums. We had them in flower last week, and everybody who saw the beauty of our sheltered bed was enthusiastic over these three varieties. We grow them under shade in our umbrosum, without any protection in winter, but rather dry. They seem to be hardier and easier to grow than C. macranthum. — H. CoRREVON, Floraire, Geneva. The very interesting article on hardy Cypripediums which appeared in your issue of May 23, page 271, prompts me to send a photograph of Cypripe- dium Calceolus. It has reddish brown sepals and a yellow pouch. I note that it is referred to as a native species. I have often seen it described as a native plant, but so far have not yet had the pleasure of finding it in the wild state. One work that I have by me says that it grows on the Cots- wolds in turf in very gritty, fibrous limestone soil in full sun. I have searched in vain in this and other localities for this plant, and am of the opinion that it is now extremely rare, if not extinct, in the wild state in Nature.— C. Q. Hybrid Primula Leddy Pilrig.— in reply to Mr. Amott's note in May 30 issue of The Garden relating to the :;bove Primula, and especially to that part of it which deals with the parentage of same, I assure him that the parentage as given by me is perfectly correct. Had 1 been in the habit of hybridising at random (which I am not), even then I would have had httle difficulty in tracing the origin of the hybrid, as certain distinct characteristics from both parents are clearly stamped on it. For the benefit of readers of The Garden who take an interest in hybrid Primulas, I here give the names of the parents of the hybrid Primula in question. They are as follow : P. bulleyana and P. beesiana, P. bulleyana being the seed parent. The colour of the hybrid combines the purple red of P. beesiana with the apricot of P. bulleyana. It has a faint Auricula-like perfume, which it takes from the pollen parent, P. beesiana. Apart from the question of parentage of P. Leddy Pilrig, I thank Mr. Amott for his favourable criticism of its merits as a plant. — W. Robertson. Early Gooseberries and Vegetables. — I began picking Gooseberries on May 7. I also dug Potatoes (Sharpe's Victor) and cut a dish of Globe Artichokes on May 30. These were of good size and quality, and both were from the open ground. The late frost has done no damage here. I have been a reader of your valuable paper for years, and have picked up many real helpful hints from its columns. — Frank Mitchell, The Gardens, Beacon Grange, Hexham - on - Tyne, Northumberland. A RARE BRITISH ORCHID, CYPRIPEDIUM CALCEOLUS THIS IS SELDOM FOUNT) NOW IN A WILD STATE. Our Native Flowers. — In your issue for May 30, page 279, there is an interesting letter on the simi- larity of our native flowers in separated districts. In regard to the Blackthorn, here on the Wiltshire Downs the profusion of bloom was marvellous this spring. Hedges were full of bloom, and small trees only a few feet high were literally crammed with blossoms, the effect of these masses of white standing out against the dark green of the Pines, or mingling with the delicate April green of other trees, being most effective and beautiful. Gorse has been plentiful, but scarcely so abundant as last jear, when every bush was a bla?e of yellow. Last year, however. Hawthorn was conspicuous by its absence, for, of all the hundreds of trees in the district, not one was seen with any clusters of bloom. This spring every tree is flowering abundantly, and filling the air with a pleasant fragrance. These trees have not been affected by the bitter wind and severe frost of the 25th and 26th ult., though many wild flowers, such as Campions and Stitchwort, look shrivelled up, and the Bracken in sheltered dells seems scorched as if by fire. — E. A. P. Wilts. The Pollination of Fruit Trees.— The recent importation of Dutch bees should, apart from the profit of honey produced, also prove of considerable assistance to fruit-growing. Late frosts, insect and fungoid pests may accoimt for many fruit failures, but I venture to say that non-pollina- tion IS the cause of not a few. Certain it is that where bees are kept, fruit sets more freely. To this most of us will agree. For example, as to distribu- tion of pollen, take the wet flowering season of last year and the poor crop that followed. The same period of this year, though not without its frosts, particularly sharp on May 2, but dry, and pollen easily distributed, resulted in the splendid prospects of a fruit crop this year. Also, some varieties of fruit trees, being self-sterile, require the pollen from another variety which may be some distance away. In this case the help of the bee is most useful. Growers of fruit under glass have their artificial means of pollination, not trusting to chance. Fruit in the open is dependent in this respect entirely on natural agencies, which may be assisted by bees. Therefore the introduction of still larger quantities of bees should be welcomed, and growers, cottagers and others encouraged in every way to keep them. — F. Marshall. Emmerton on the Auricula. — In The Garden for May 30, page viii., your correspondent G. F. W. Herbert, in his notes about Isaac Emmerton, which originally appeared in Hogg's Supplement to his " Treatise on Florists' Flowers," falls into an error where he says that Emmerton's famous treatise on the Auricula was published in 1818. Emmerton pub- lished the first edition of that work in 1815, and the second appeared in 1819. Although Hogg claims to have had some share in the writing of it, yet on reading Emmerton's preface it is not apparent that it Was other than an independent effort of his own, and Emmerton was dead v.hen Hogg's Supplement was published. There is nowhere any record of an 1818 edition, and probably that date may have been a mere slip of the pen on the part of your correspondent or a printer's error. Both Johnson and Lady Amherst, in their bibliographies, give the year 1816 as the, date of Emmerton's publication, but this date can- not have been verified. Johnson makes no reference to a second issue, while Lady Amtierst does, and places it under its proper date, 1819. The first edition is exclusively an Auricula treatise, but the later one contains chapters on the Polyanthus, Carnation, Pink and Ranunculus. Both editions are in my library, and the dates given'by me are unquestionable. — C. H. P. June 13, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 303 Protecting Fruit Blossom. — We gardeners in the North are much interested in the notes about the protection of fruit blossom during the early months of summer. It may prove sur- prising to readers who live in the sunny South to know that 1 have to protect my Pears here ; if I did not, the crop would be infinitesimal. Last year I had twelve large sashes over my choicest kinds, and the others were protected with mats ; but, in spite of all that, the crop was far from satisfactory. Of course, it must be men- tioned that the soil is not of the highest order for Pear-growing, since it is heavy and cold ; yet, after many years' " manufacture," it ought to be fairly good now. Most of the trees are on the east and north walls, and so sheltered from the worst winds (near Glasgow). For the past six years I have been trying to find a good variety outside the older sorts that will suit my place ; but, though I have patronised nurserymen in all parts of the country, I have not yet had the satisfac- tion I desire. The laborious practice of protecting the trees during their period of bloom seems inevitable, and I have resigned myself to the unlucky Fates which planted me — and the Pears — in an uncongenial district. — H. H. A., Glasgow. Vitality of Seeds. — With regard to this subject, referred to by Mr. Charles Comfort on page xx. of The Garden for May 23, I may, perhaps, be allowed to add a few words to show that some seeds more than others have a tendency to retain their vitality for long periods before germinating, and are more or less constant in this habit. Many years ago I visited the extensive grounds of Mr. Rufus Usher at Bodicote, near Banbury, where medicinal plants of several kinds were systematic- ally cultivated. Among these were two forms of Henbane (Hyoscyamus niger), the forms being known respectively as annual and biennial. The latter, producing only a large tuft of spreading radical leaves during the first year, is the most valued for its medicinal properties, extract of Henbane being prepared from them. I remember being told at the time of my visit that the Henbane was a very uncertain plant in its mode of growth, as the seeds were often known to lie in the groimd for some years before germinating. At this distance of time I do not remember the number of years that had been known to elapse, but other crops, like Potatoes, were often got off the land at intervals before the Henbane crop was realised. We all know how some people still stick to the story of the Mummy Pea, but between the Pea, the Hen- bane and Mr. Charles Comfort's plants there is a wide range of years, so that some reasonable conclusion may yet be arrived at. — John R. Jackson, Claremont, Lympstone, Devon. Too-mucta-alike Auriculas. — ^There is no doubt that many of the AuricuJas are too much alike, and " Taplow " is justified in calling attention to the matter. Here is a fine chance for the National Auricula Society to follow the Sweet Pea Society, and classify the various forms and let the cult know which are really distinct. Catalogues and lists are often bewildering to amateurs, while the professional gardener would be saved a lot of time and trouble if he was told which were similar. Many are not up to show form, although they may be good" garden plants ; it does not always follow that show plants are the best for general purpose . The following twelve would be useful, and j produce a varied display in due season : Argus, Bluebell, Duke of York, Firefly, Rosy Mom, Uranie, Teviotdale, Thetis, The Bride, Mrs. H. '"umer. Dazzle and Miss Ashton. In a list before me they are quoted at IS. and is. 6d. each, and flowering samples are sent out. There are other good and distinct kinds, but the price is accordingly higher, and this will be readily understood when I say that some Auriculas are very shy in producing offsets. Among the selfs are Buttercup, Mikado, Ruby, Favourite, Mrs. Phillips and Lord of Lome. These average about 2s. each. Of the green- edged, Mrs. Henwood is among the best. George Lightbody, raised over fifty years ago, is still unsurpassed in the grey-edged, but the constitution is weak, and the short-pursed novices would do well to choose the cheaper George Rudd or Olympus. In the white-edged section. Acme and Heather Bell are recommended. The edged kinds are more expensive, and vary from 2s. to los. 6d., but those quoted are' near the former figure. Whenever possible, it is best to select the plants in flower, either in the nursery or at one of the Auricula shows. — T. W. B. Snapdragons for Winter. — I was interested in the description and comments in the issue of May 2, page 220, on the winter-flowering Snapdragon (Antirrhinum) Nelrose. There it was given imder the varietal name Melrose, but that was an error. The note refers to the perpetual- blooming character of Nelrose, and says that this type is largely employed in the United States of America. These references are correct. Just after the Chrysanthemums begin to wane early in December — for the Americans do not want them later — one begins to see charming Utile basketfuls of Snapdragon. These are favourites right on until the Daffodils appear in quantity in April. The raiser of Antirrhinum Nelrose was F. W. Fletcher, of the firm of F. W. Fletcher and Co., Auburndale, Massachusetts, who began opera- tions over fifteen years ago. At that time the majus varieties had poor flowers, sparsely set on the spikes, and there was a need of bright, clear colours. The first crosses, he tells me, were made with the best varieties then existing, followed later by the named sorts of Antirrhinum nanum grandiflorum. These later crosses gave the material Mr. Fletcher had been looking for, and though they were a very mixed crew, it was only a matter of selection from thousands of seedlings to get a strain that began to approach to the ideal of what a commercial- Antirrhinum should be, i.e., one that would flourish indoors in winter and produce plenty of attractive cut blooms. So it was out of these cross-bred seedlings that Nelrose came, and four years ago Messrs. Fletcher had a sufficient stock to yield them commercial cut flowers. The colour is a rich silvery pink, and the flowers and spikes are large and handsome. Nelrose is equally good as a bedding plant, growing about twelve inches high out of doors — in America, at least. Every growth makes a flowering spike, so that if the plant is kept growing it must flower, summer and winter. I am pleased to say that Mr. Fletcher is of EngMsh descent, and was bom in Massachusetts fifty-six years ago. He works on Mendeliau lines in his hybridising and cross-breeding. Formerly he was editor of the New England Florist, since merged with the Florists' Exchange. — J. Harrison Dick, New York. "THE GARDEN" PLANNING AND PLANTING COM- PETITION. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. June 13.^ — Stirling Horticultural Association : Outing to Greenfield, Alloa. June 16. • — Royal Horticultural Society's and National Gladiolus Society's Combined Show. June 17. — Yorkshire Gala (three days). For the benefit of new readers we are publishing on page vii. the coupon to be sent for the outline plans in connection with our competition for planning and planting the little garden. In this competition we are offering cash prizes to the total value of £33 12s., as well as a number of book prizes, for the best designs for planning and planting the little garden. Full particulars will be sent to anyone who writes to the Editor for them and encloses ijd. in stamps to cover cost and postage. All envelopes relating to this competition should be marked " Planning Com- petition " in the top left-hand comer. Replies to the numerous questions that have been sent in by intending competitors will be answered in our next issue. We would remind readers that there is no time limit for entering the competition, but completed designs must be delivered not later than September i next. We take this opportunity of thanking those readers who have so kindly written letters of appreciation concerning the competition. UNCOMMON FLOWERS AND FOLIAGE FOR VASES. There is a strange dislike to umbelliferous flowers for vase decorations. Sentiment, perhaps. One sometimes sees the compact-headed Masterwort used, but the much prettier loose-headed sorts scarcely ever, if at all. Some of these are not only pretty, but they are faintly, and sometimes strongly, aromatically perfumed, and the foliage of kinds not particularly desirable for their flowers is not to be despised. Of the latter, mention may be made of Spignel, the leaves of which are elegantly cut, fragrant and very dark green. Sweet Cicely, which flowers as early as March, along with nice white flowers has scented. Fern- like foliage, and is sometimes known by the name of Sweet Fem. One of the very prettiest, and which can be cut in long sprays with foliage and flowers, is the common garden Chervil . This is a recommendable vase flower, either for mixing with other kinds or for using alone, and it can be had from spring to late autumn. The common Cow Parsley, which succeeds Sweet Cicely, is also a valuable asset for certain purposes, but only for its flowers, which are not fragrant. The common Fennel and the Giant Fennels, with their greenish yellow flower-heads and finely divided foliage, are very useful later in the year, and the humble Carrot, whether in flower, in seed, or with the reddened leaves of autumn, affords splendid material for the decorator. Selinum (Oreocome) CandoUei is an exotic species that can be recommended for large arrangements. The only use I know for Bishopweed, that most determined colonist and almost ineradicable weed, is as a cut flower. It is really very hand- some, and well worth working up with other early autumn blooms. It is scarcely necessary to mention the Eryngiums, which form exceptions to the vast number of umbelliferous flowers by their deUghtful colouring. What I specially desire is to draw attention to a vast fund of decorative material to a large extent ignored and neglected. R. P. Brotherston. 304 THE GARDEN. [June 13, 1914. THE NEWER CHINESE RHODODENDRONS. AMONG the almost countless number of new plants introduced during recent years from Central and Western k China, new species of Rhododendron ^ are very prominent. The Himalayas have, since the travels of Sir William Hooker, been regarded as the headquarters of the genus ; but the exploration of China by Dr. Henry, Mr. E. H. Wilson, Mr. G. Forrest, and the three French missionaries, Les Abbes David, Delavay and Farges, has abundantly proved that Central and Western China must in future be regarded as the Rhododendron headquarters. Mr. E. H. Wilson during his four journeys collected over seventy species and several varieties. A number of these have been known to botanists and named from dried specimens for some time, but many are entirely new introduc- tions. Some of those which have already flowered with us are valu- able additions, though the Rhodo- dendron already holds pride of place as our best evergreen flower- ing shrub. It is worth recording that nearly all Mr. Wilson's Rhododendrons are evergreen, a notable exception being the true R. sinense, around which and R. mollis considerable difference of opinion exists as to their being synonymous or distinct species. The rich yellow-flowered R. sinense seems to support the contention of nurserymen that our present- day race of garden Azaleas are hybrids between the yellow R. sinense and R. mollis, the type of which has apparently variable rosy pink blossoms. The Chinese Rhododendrons represent a remarkable diversity of growth, foliage and flowers. A few extremes worth noting are R. intricatum and R. fastigiatum, alpine species less than i8 inches high, with leaves half an inch in length. Contrast these with R. auriculatum, a large bush or tree 30 feet high, with leaves 3 inches to 5 inches wide, and sometimes exceeding a foot in length. Unfortunately, some of the newer species flower as early as March and April, also starting into growth while we are troubled with spring frosts. This means that, if possible, positions should be selected to plant them where they will be shaded from the early morning sun, so that, in the event of frost, the foliage can thaw gradually before the bright rays of the sun reach it. The places where we shall see those not suitable for general cultivation will, no doubt, be in the sunny South and West in company with the Himalayan species and hybrids. There is another interesting side to the value of these newer introductions in addition to their individual value for garden decoration, and that is for hybridising. Fame awaits the raiser of a perfectly hardy large-flowered evergreen yellow or blue flowered Rhododendron. Among the new species we have at least three with yellow flowers, R. ambiguum, R. lutescens and R. flavidum, while there is a lot of blue in R. intricatum and R. fastigiatum. A few particulars respecting the best of those which have flowered may prove of interest to readers. Rhododendron ambiguum. — A bushy plant with oboA'ate, dark green leaves. The yellow flowers appear during April in small, terminal trusses. This species has, unfortunately, been put into commerce as R. concinnum, a species with purple flowers. R. Augustinii. — This is a most beautiful species, with evergreen oblong-lanceolate leaves It is in the way of the beautiful R. yunnanense, Init flowers rather early. The French missionaries sent seeds of this species to M. Maurice de Vilmorin. R. concinnum, the true purple-flowered species, gives promise of being a useful evergreen, and as it flowers during M;ky, the blooms develop under much more favourable conditions. The flowers are li inches to 2 inches across, and prettily spotted with reddish purple. R. fastigiatum is a dainty little alpine species reaching a foot or rather more in height. The small, evergreen leaves are half an inch long ; flowers lavender purple. It is allied to R. intricatum, but flowers nearly a month later, and has protruding stamens. This was, I believe, the first of Mr. G. Forrest's Rhododendrons to flower in this country, which it did in 1912, eighteen months from the time of sowing the seeds. A. O. {To be continued.) A FLOWERING SPRAY OF RHODODENDRON CHARTOPHYLLUM, A NEW CHINESE SPECIES. and mauve, lavender or white flowers. The bushy plants are very free flowering. The seed- lings exhibit considerable variation in the colour and size of the flowers, the best only of which must be selected for propagation. It is evidently fairly common in China, having been collected by Dr. Henry, Mr. E. H. Wilson and the French missionaries. R. adenopodum is an April-flowering species, with pale rose-coloured flowers 2\ inches to 3 inches in diameter, first introduced to France by Abbe Farges and later by Mr. Wilson. R. chartophyllum is an evergreen bushy species with white to lavender spotted flowers. ROSE-GROWING IN TOWN GARDENS. THE TREATMENT OF MILDEW. LL who have attempted to grow Roses in confined areas are familiar with the appearance of mil- dew, and most people are aware that it is caused by a minute fungus which spreads over the surface of the leaves and sends its roots into the cells, extracting the sap and causing the leaf to wither. It is important to realise that this fungus becomes visible only when it is bearing countless spores and is thus in a fair way to infect the whole Rose gar- den, as the wind will quickly dis- tribute these spores among the rest of the plants. It is therefore only by taking preventive measures before the disease has actually appeared that we can hope to combat it eflectually. In the " Rose Annual " for 1914 the best methods for dealing with mildew are discussed in a series of interesting papers contributed by eminent rosarians, and the subject is one of particular interest to to%vn gardeners. The advice of all tends in the same direction. Spra^ early and often is the rule, and, as Mr. M. A. Bailey points out, it is im- portant to use a good syringe or machine capable of throwing the finest possible spray, and care must be taken that both sides of the leaves are thoroughly covered. This gentleman recommends liver of sulphur for the wash at a strength of one ounce in five gallons of water on the opening leaves, and subsequently one ounce in four gallons as the foliage hardens. With me this solution by itself does not seem to adhere to the leaves properly. It is apt to run into large drops, and I have found it better to mix a moderate ' amount of soft soap with it, which will give it the I desired effect. Dr. Hamilton draws a close analogy I between the chief causes of infection of the human I body by disease and of Roses by mildew. From I his deductions we learn that a wound on the surface June 13, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 305 of leaf or stem forms a point of danger, that weakly or overcrowded plants are especially subject to disease, and that over-watering the roots by lowering the vitality of a plant enables the mildew to obtain a firmer hold. We are counselled to keep the plants as clean as possible, not to over- crowd them, to fork over the surface of the beds frequently and to avoid wounds or abrasions. As regards the latter, Dr. Hamilton suggests that the plants should not be fingered, advice which is difficult to follow where green fly is a real trouble and time is limited ; but when these insects are removed by hand it is certainly imperative to do it carefully, so that the surface of the leaf is not broken. The Rev. F. Page-Roberts has found Jeyes' Horticultural Wash, Calvert's Carbolic Soap and Berger's Lime-Sulphur Solution all effective, as well as dark-coloured flowers of sulphur blown over the plants while the dew is on them, specially made bellows being used for this purpose. - Dr. A. R. Waddell created considerable interest last year by recommending the spraying of the plants with a solution of formaldehyde in the proportion of one teaspoonful to a gallon of water. He again advocates this strongly in his present paper, and gives interesting details of the results obtained by this treatment. It would appear, however, that the remedy is apt to be dangerous, for Mr. Page-Roberts contends that it is liable to burn the young growth, while Mr. Darlington has found it ineffective in treating mildew on Roses under glass. One fact emerges from the discussion. As Dr. Hamilton points out, there are many remedies but there is no cure. Spores are ever present, awaiting favourable conditions in which to germinate, and only regular spraying will prevent the appearance of mildew. Another point made by the same writer is the importance of selecting hardy varieties. Very few Roses are actually immune from attack, and anyone wishing to grow a representative collection will hardly care to limit his choice to these ; but if a particular variety has been badly infested, the wisest course is to get rid of it and replace it with plants of another kind. P. L. Goddard. The Small Seedlings.— What is lost in the discarding of the small seedling plants no one ever knows, yet they are worthy of our closest attention. Frequently — I had almost said in- variably— the small seedling plant, the slow grower at the start, is often of superior quality, and should be catered for accordingly. Yet too often these are discarded by the careless or thought- less worker at the time of pricking off because they are less easy to handle. I once caught red-handed an assistant, who for days had been trusted with the pricking off of a fine strain of tuberous Begonias, throwing under the potting- bench a whole host of the smaller seedlings, the stronger growers, the second and third rate flowers, probably coming readier to his hand. A cursory examination of his past work revealed the fact that there were no very small seedlings pricked off ; hence one could only guess at the loss. Naturally, the pricking off of the smallest seedlings constitutes the more tedious part of the work ; but good things were ever wrapped up in small parcels, and it is in these tinier specks of vegetable life that the good things are usually found. The Seed-Bed. — At this season of the year, seeing that the object of sowing now is to obtain large plants for flowering a year hence, the seed- bed should be formed in the open and in a partially shaded position. The plot of ground should be c'ean, well tilled, finely broken up and raked down as evenly as possible. Where light soils obtain, this will prove quite easy. Where the soil is heavy or of a more lumpy as well as stony nature, greater preparation will be required. In such a case a fine surface may be formed by raking off the stones, by the addition of finely sifted soil or even a little Cocoanut fibre refuse. By the aid of a few boards and a spare frame-light a bed can be so formed that birds and other animal life can be kept at bay. A thinly shaded frame-light or one darkened by mats, while performing the above-named func- tion, conserves moisture, also hastens and ensures a more uniform vegetation of the seeds. These are important. Should the seeds be sown in a fixed frame, see to it that the surface of the seed-bed is quite flat and not at the same inclined angle as the frame, which runs all the water to the lowest point. Sowing the Seeds.— The only rational way is that of sowing in drills, arranging these at 9 inches apart. By these means hoeing, thinning and weeding are easily performed, whereas, on the broadcast seed-sowing system, weeding is less easy and hoeing impracticable. The best way to form the drills is to provide an inch wide board and press it into the soil half an inch or so deep. In this way the drill and the straight line are forthcoming by one and the same process. For the covering, a little fine soil with Cocoanut fibre will do quite well. Bach variety or kind should be labelled as sown, and the whole gently watered when the work is completed. Thin sowing of the seeds is a point so often urged that it might appear superfluous to repeat it. Yet it is of the highest importance. The operator should remember, too, that large seeds may be safely buried an inch deep, while the smallest — those approximating to dust-like particles — will be better with little or no soil covering at all. Even Polyanthus seed, neither notoriously small and certainly not large, is best with little covering up, and, like others, is quite content with the shelter the interstices of the soil afford. Sub- joined is a list of plants — by no means exhaustive — that may be sown at the present time, with hints as to soil and other matters which I hope may prove helpful to the general reader. RAISING HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS FROM SEEDS. IN every department of gardeniag there is wisdom and a certain fascination in the raising of plants from seeds, and that these extend into the region of hardy plant growing none will gainsay. The wisdom lies in the obtaining of one's " pound of flesh," so to speak. It may be one hundred or five times that number of seeds for a shilling, and if only a fourth part of the first-named number vegetate and make good plants, the expenditure might still be considered good and economical. The fascinating side of the subject — it is full of interest and moment to even the most advanced horticulturists — is that one never quite knows what is coming. We know, of course, that we have purchased seeds of Aubrietia, Gaillardia, Carnation or Delphinium, and committed them to the earth in " sure and certain hope," though we cannot even guess what their " resurrection *' will be. In other words, while there will be the usual array of ordinary seedlings, and some — the weeds — that might be regarded as extraordinary, there is also just the possibility — often the probabi- hty — of some others being extraordinarily good. Name. Colour. AchilU'ii alpina Acoiiitiuu Wilsonii Adonic annirrnsis -. . .;; ., vrnialis Anchiisa italica Dropmore var Opal AuthLTlcum Liliastnmi. juajor Aquilegia chry.santha ., CEerulca hybrids ., Skinneri , Aster Amellus in variety Campanula carpatica. ,, ,, alba , , Rlvcrslea ,, persicifolia in variety .... Van Houttei '. Centauroa niontana rubra Chelone barjData vars Delphinium (good strain) Eryngium amethystinum Gaillardia in variety Galcga officinalis alba ,, .,, His Majesty Geum coccineum plenum Heucheras in variety. Incarvillea Delavayi Kniphofias of sorts Lathyrus latifolius ,, ,, alba The Pearl Liatris graminifolia dubia Lychnis chalcedonica Lupinus of sorts Papavcr orientale in variety ,, nudicaule in three colours .. Pyrethrum, single vars Primula japonica ,, ,, alba ,, pulverulenta ,, denticulata in variety Scabiosa caucasica ,, ,, alba Statice latifolia Thalictrum aquilegifolium ., ,, album. . . . ,, ,, purpureum TroUius, any varieties Verbascums of sorts Violas of sorts Zauschneria californica White Deep bluo Yellow &c. Rich blue Cambridge blue White Yellow Scarlet, yellow, cream. Scarlet . Violet. Blue. White Deep blue Blue and while . . Light blue Red Scarlet Violet and blue . . Blue Crimson and gold. White Blue and white. . . Scarlet Scarlet and pink . Rose magenta . . . Scarlet, &c Rose White Rosy purple Scarlet Blue, rose, white . . . Crimson to orange . Orange, scarlet, &c. Various Crimson Whitish Crimson White and lavender. Mauve blue White Blue Creamy , White Purplish Yellow and orange . . Various Scarlet . Soil. Ordinary Sandy loam . . . Ordinary Sandy loam . . . Loam Ordinary Light loam Ordinary Cool loam Sandy loam . . . Ordinary Sandy loam . . . Rich loam Ordinary Light loam Ordinary Light loam Rich loam Deep loam .... Ordinary Deep loam .... Rich soil Ordinary Light soils Rich light soils , Rich moist soils Rich light soils Light soils Good loam Moist loam Light soils . . . . Rich soils . . . . Light soil . . . . Time of Flowering. ■" -^ July 2 September, OctobiT . . 5 — 6 March 1 March, April 1 June, July 4 — 6 , 4—6 May, June 2 June, July 3 — 4 July, August 2—3 , 2 August, September. . . 2 \] !' ...2. • •-1 June, July 2i July, August 2^ June, July 2 July — September .... 4 June, July 4—6 July, August 3 S 4 4 June 2 June, August 2^ June 3 August. — October .... 3 — 6 July — September 6 — 8 6—8 6—8 August 5 — 6 July, Aujiust 3 June, July 3 — 4 2—4 „ U June n May, June 2 2 June, July 2 — 4 April, May 14 July, August 3 3 Aufnist, September... 2 June, July 2i , 2* , 2| June 2| Summer 2 — 6 Spring and summer . . i Autumn 1 E. H. Jenkins. 306 THE GARDEN. [June 13, 1914. SWEET PEA NOTES. was given m Here are Sweet Peas nn tip-toe for a flirrtit With %\ings of gentle flush o'er delicate white. And taper fingers catrhing at all thincs. To bind them all about with tiny wings. WITH joy we proclaim the arrival of the Queen of Annuals. As anticipated, the Chelsea Show produced some notable exhibits of Sweet Peas, of which a detailed account the Special Chelsea Show Number of The Garden. The brilliant sunny weather and the quality of the blossoms made it difficult to remember that it was not the Holland House Show. Such fine d splays of exquisite flowers should give a fiUip to the culture of Sweet Peas under glass, and every Sweet Pea lover possessing a light, airy house will find they amply repay all the care bestowed upon them. Sweet Peas Under Glass.— Continue to give as much air as possible, and where a picking of flowers has been made, the plants will benefit by applications of liquid manure. As previously mentioned, start with weak soot- water, and, personally, I think this should form the principal liquid used, as it cannot do anv harm. A plan 1 have found most beneficial is to give a good top-dressing (a fair sprinkling) of Dobbie's Sweet Pea Manure or Ichthemic Guano or Clay's Fer- tilizer, and then a mulching with spent Hops, watering with clear water, with occasional doses of weak soot-water. It is essential that the plants are not allowed to become dry, and the mulching materially prevents this, the Hops being clean and less imsightly than anything else. Whether the fertiliser be used or not, the mulching is absolutely necessary. If liquid manure be relied upon, I recommend that a watering of soot-water be followed after four or five days by an application of superphosphate at the rate of 20z. to three gallons of water. The next watering of alternate clean and soot water might be followed by one of liquid manure made from cow - manure or farmyard manure, and should be well diluted. It is well to err on the side of over-dilution rather than risk the loss of plants through an extra strong mixture. " A little and often " is an absolutely satisfactory cul- tural maxim when giving liquid food. An occasional watering with phosphate of potash (half an ounce to a gallon of water) together with the foregoing will keep the plants in good condition for many weeks. Disbudding.— All the side shoots must be kept rubbed out and no seed-pods allowed to form, and it is well to cut the blooms as soon as they are fully out and commencing to show the seed- pods. By this means the strength of the plant is not wasted, and the succession of flowers is assured. Outdoor Culture. — The weather conditions have been most uncongenial, and many growers are complaining of stunted growths and dis- appointed hopes. The stunted growths and the yellowing of the leaves are due to the very dry weather and bitterly cold nights we have recently experienced. Given moister conditions, they will quickly recover and make headway. Sandy, All refractory shoots must be tied in, and where exhibition blooms are required, a thinning out may be necessary. Thin Growths. — Vigorous growths in the majority of cases at present are conspicuous by their absence, and I have noticed that several growers have resorted to an early use of chemicals. This is really folly. In many instances the plants were impoverished through a prolonged stay in pots or boxes, and the drought has further checked them. The chemical is lying unused, and is therefore thus far wasted. A thorough watering, followed by frequent syringings, will be of more benefit than any manure. As I have so frequently stated, the chemical manures are most use- ful as an extra stimulant when the plants are in active growth, and I prefer to see the haulm strong and vigorous before an application of any concentrated fertiliser be made. If the drought continues, give frequent water- ings, and try to create a sturdy growth by picking off all flower- buds that are prematurely forming. Question of Scent. — I have read with considerable interest the letters that have recently appeared in the " Correspon- dence " columns of The Garden bemoaning the loss of scent. Is it really so ? Are we not under a delusion when we say a certain Sweet Pea has more scent than another ? That some varieties are more fragrant than others we all agree, but an interesting experiment convinced me that our sense of smell is not to be depended upon entirely, any more than the sense of feeling. Probably most readers know that if one hand be placed in very hot water and the other in ice cold water, then both plunged together into lukewarm water, that one hand will declare the water hot and the other cold. A similar experiment was tried on a grower who most vehemently affirmed that the Spencer type lacked fragrance. He was blindfolded and a spray of Sunproof Crimson was given him. He said it was most fragrant. It was taken away and given him again, and this time he affirmed it had no per- fume. Again and again the same flower was substituted for others, and after the first time it was declared to be lacking in porous soils have specially shown dire results scent. Dorothy Eckford and Lady G. Hamilton THE MOUNTAIN CLEMATIS, C. MONTANA, OVKR A COTTAGE DOOR WAY IN SURREY. of the drought, and watering is absolutely essential. Where mulchinf with short, well-decayed manure or lawn mowings has been applied, the loss of moisture has not been so pronounced, and a constant use of the hoe in many instances has done much to mitigate the evils of the drought. Tying. — Where growth is fairly rampant and vigorous, an almost daily survey is necessary. were also similarly tested, and great was the surprise of the person, when his eyes were unbound, at the opinions he had given. Personally, I have tested the power of judging scent in other flowers by the same experiment, and my conclusion is that the sense of smell is not sufficiently reliable to notice accurately the difference in degrees of fragrance. It is quite possible for many varieties to have been raised from parent flowers with little June 13, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 307 fragrance, as many raisers have striven for colour and form only, and it would be a great loss if the new Sweet Peas lacked the well-known and approved fragrance ; but, on the other hand, it is unfair and unwise to condemn all Spencer Sweet Peas as odourless. S. M. Crow. THE MOUNTAIN CLEMATIS. Considering the ease with which Clematis montana will grow in almost any part of the country, one might almost imagine it to be a native of Britain, instead of which it was introduced from Nepaul in 1831. Our illustration shows this Clematis effec- tively growing over a cottage porchway in the village of Clandon in Surrey, in which neighbour- hood Clematis montana may be seen growing over balconies, walls, and even bams, flowering with great freedom. It is also to be seen rambling at will over Pine trees, the light star-like flowers being shown up to great advantage against the dark background of coniferous trees. It is indeed a beautiful subject and of very easy culture. Clematis montana does best in a hot sunny position, a south wall for preference, although it is often recommended for a north wall. If given a sunny position the wood is well ripened and the chance of a fine display of flowers the following year is greatly enhanced. pruning ought to be done soon after flower- ing, when the weak growth should be cut clean away. This beautiful climber is not in the least fastidious about soil, but it appreciates one of a light nature and a plentiful addi- tion of lime. flowers regularly), Symphyandra pendula, Statice minuta, Silene ElizabetliEe, Saxifraga pyramidalis, S. longifolia, S. Salomonii, S. lantoscana lingulata, S. burseriana Gloria, Rosmarinus prostrata. Plumbago Larpentae, Onosma alba rosea, Oinothera brachycarpa, (E. ovata, (E. W. Cuthbertson, (E. Youngii, Mazus repens, Lithospermum Froe- bellii, L. prostratum, L. Heavenly Blue, L. ros- marinifolium, L. Zollinsieri, Hieracium villosum, Globularia nana, Dianthus alpinus, D. neglectus, D. cassius, D. arvemense, Cytisus Ardoinei, Corydalis Wilsonii, Convolvulus Cneorum, C. althajoides, C. mauritanicus. Campanula Stevenii nana, C. turbinata, C. garganica hirsuta and C. Miss Willmott, besides all the larger kinds of wall plants, including Aubrietia H. Marshall, A. Lloyd Edwards, A. Fire King, A. Dr. Mules, A. Lavender, Helianthemum Fireball, H. venustum, H Peauty and H. Rhodanthe carneum. TULIP AFTERMATH. TULIPA SPRENGERI is in full bloom, which is only another way of saying that the curtain has been rung down and that the end of Tulip-time has come. This seems to be a convenient season to write about one or two matters of interest in connection with this flower. Rise in Prices. — It will be news to many to be told that during the month of May there has been a miniature mania in Holland over late Tulips, more especially the deep rich purple and the brownish yellow shades. The Gladiolus gamble of last year seems to have whetted the Dutchmen's appetite for speculative dealings, and now, when it is believed, and I may say I think with good reason (see an article by Mrs. Francis King in A WALL GARDEN IN DEVON. and IN case any of your readers are interested in wall gardening, I am sending you a photo- graph of a dry wall we have made here. It forms the retaining waU to the lawn, 180 feet long and faces due south. The first half of it was built in the autumn of igii, and the second half, which is shown in the photograph, in September, 1912. The stone is from a local quarry, and was used exactly as it was quarried. The soil used for filling at the back was good garden loam, with bone-meal mixed with it. Most of the plants were put in the wall when it was being made, but many small ones have since been added. From the first the plants have all thriven in a remarkable way, and we have no trouble in the wall during wet winters with any of the Dianthi, Asperula sub- erosa, Acantholimon venustum, Androsace lanugi- nosa, A. pyrenaica, Potentilla nitida and Wahlen- bergia Pumilio. Among the many other things doing well may be mentioned Aquilegia cajrulea, A. Stuartii, A. glandulosa. Anemone sylvestris grandiflora. Iris pumila atrocaerulea, I. azurea, I. caenilea, 1. lutea, I. cristata, Zauschneria califomica (which AN INTERESTING WALL GARDEN IN DEVONSHIRE. At the foot of the wall are many kinds of bulbs, including Tulip species, Habranthus pratensis, Tritonia crocata, Sparaxis Tollens, S. Fire King, S. Constance, S. sulphurea, S. Judith and Ixia Fire King. Watsonia Ardemei (which flowers splendidly and has not been lifted or covered for three years). Iris juncea, I. filifolia. Anemone nemerosa Blue Bonnet and A. AUenii do well in the partial shade of other plants. This short list does not give one quarter of the plants growing in the wall, but it is enough to show that many of the plants that are doubtful in this erratic climate are very happy in a dry wall, where their roots are always cool and in perfect drainage, and their heads in every bit of sun that we may be lucky enough to get. E. A. Froude. CoUapil Creek, Kingsbridge, South Devon. the Garden Magazine ti New York for May, 1914, an extract from which is given at the end of this aitic'e), that America is waking up to the immense possibilities of Tulips, they are at it again. Old Haarlem must rub her eyes when she hears the doings of the Monday meetings in the Bulb Market, and wonder if the famous times of 1635 and 1636 and 1637 are about to be repeated. I am afraid we shall feel the result in increased prices in many of the very best varieties. The most startling rise is in that beautiful blue purple, The Bishop. Mr. Bourne's price in 1913 was 5s. per dozen ; in his preliminary list for 1914, which I picked up at Chelsea, it is put down at 30s. Louis XIV., Viking, Jubilee, Frans Hals and such as Dom Pedro, Ronald Gunn, Mrs. Kerrell and Norham Beauty have all appreciated in value. Nor have Gondvink, Clio, Golden Bronze, Quaintness, Goldmine or Coridion (all brownish yellows) fallen. 308 THE GARDEN. [June 13, 1914. There is one compensation, however. The flood gates that held back Clara Butt have at last been opened, and this once expensive gem is now a possibility for the man of moderate means. Tulip Pluriflores. — Messrs. James Carter and Co. distributed the only one of this new French race which is in commerce last autunm — Mons. S. Mottet. I am wondering what their customers thought of it. I have had a fine bed in my own garden from liomc- e.rown bulbs. There was plenty of branching, four and five flowers on a stem being common, with two as a minimum and seven as a maximum. Then, the petals are adiiesive. As the only hundred year old parishioner that I have ever had said to me in his one hundred and first year: " I aint given to dying," so the flowers of Mons. S. Mottet say : " We aint given to fall- ing." LasI, they certainly do. This gives them ample time to appear in a new dress, for they are none of your lightning change artists, but require a considerable time to put off their white and don their pretty rose costume. These branching Tulips must be " well done to," or they will not branch. If in any year they do not do so, then, immediately this failing is seen, feed them. Again, only the large- sized bulbs will branch. These are the two secrets of success, without which failure is certain. . One must have a nursery bed in which to grow them on and feed them. With this adjunct all difficulties vanish. They are worth it ; a large bed is a pleasing sight and a very uncommon one. Early Flowering Novelties in Pots. I believe I have found the very best pure white in commerce, if not in exist- ence— White Beauty. It is a sport from that grand variety, Pink Beauty. To show how. much alike the two are in habit and shape of flower, my gardener, without knowing its true history, "spotted" its origin. Those who know Pink Beauty will need no further recommendation beyond my saying " It is a chip of the old block." Another superb novelty is the glorious reddish orange De Wet. I am told it is a sport from that best of all Tulips, Prince of Austria. In this case, too, the chip is fully as good as the old block. I have grown De Wet in pots and also in the open, and in both circumstances it has proved itself highly satisfactory. I have to thank my good friend Mrs. Polman Mooy of Haarlem for many things, for reGEL making me Govda syrup-wafers for one thing, but for none more than for being the unintentional reintroducer of De Wet. She took her husband and myself to a Woman's Work Exhibition at Amsterdam last year, and there, decorating a prettily furnished sitting-room, were vases galore, of this, both to the " Heer " and myself, unknown flower, It looks so different to what it did at the Jubilee Exhibition that, although we had stood together before it there, neither of us recognised it now. The fact is, it changes with age. Whereas in early life the orange tone predominates, in later life it is the red. Visitors, one and all, to my garden have asked : " Where can I get it ? " I really do not know who lists it, but as I am told the wholesale vendors, Messrs. M. van Waveren and Sons of Hillegom, are sold out for this season, somebody must. It is the most notable " early flowering" introduction of re- cent years. A third novelty, which is also a sport, coming as it does from Cottage Maid, is Jeanette. It is unlike any other early Tulip in colour, being a sort of rich cerise crimson, edged deep pink. It is a long flower and the edges of the petals are a little laciniated. I am in two minds about it. I like its colour very much, but somehow there is some- thing about its general look that I do not care for ; hut I am going to try it again ; it is such a decided novelty. It has one recommendation — it is quite cheap compared with De Wet — hence I advise a trial. Extract from " Notes Among the Flowers of May," by Mrs. Francis King : " Let me suggest REGELIO-CYCLUS IRISES. T HERE is often a certain negative similarity between the result of going to an auction sale of the contents of some well-known house and a large flower show such as Chelsea, or even the usual fortnightly shows of the Royal Horticultural Society. In the first case we find ourselves landed with what we do not want, and in the second with what we cannot grow. Surely few can say, " It has never been so with me." Maybe the Oncocyclus and Regelia Irises have been the snare. For example, susiana, one of the best kno\\Ti, is not infre- quently exliibited in London. It always has a certain strange fascination forme, but I seem to have a stronger will at shows than I do at sales, and so far neither susiana, nor Gatesii, nor Lortetii, nor Korolkowii has induced me to buy. I am told, however, that there is a sort of halfway house between the easy " Gennans " and the impossible " Cushions," namely, a certain weirdly named strain raised by the great hybridising firm of C. G. van Tubergen of Haarlem and named Regelio-cyclus Iris. These (and the statement has the imprimatur of Dykes — " Iris," in " Pre- sent-day Gardening," page 28) are at least possibles if treated as advised by the aforesaid firm. I believe, to do them well, cold-frame culture, with the plants in the soil, is by far the best way to manage them. The difficulty is to pre- vent autumn growth, and to keep any that may come from the vicissitudes of winter and earl}' spring. I saw the beautiful series of hybrids at the Royal Horticultural Society's show on May 5, and since then I have had a boxful of their charming refined flowers sent from Haarlem. They had been gathered in the bud, then stretched and tied to a rack of comfort, so that they reached me just opening, and a few hours in water gave me the pleasure of seeing for the first time in my own house living specimens of some of the best of this fairly amenable rare. I should say that Mr. Thomas Hoog (nephew of the respected head of the firm, Mr. C. G. van Tubergen, jim.) had told me that if I followed his directions, he did not see why I should not succeed. That box did it. I am going to make the attempt to grow a few of them next season, and I have picked out three from those to those who do not yet know the newer Darwins, 1 sent which are quite distinct from one another Cottage Tulips, Breeders and Rembrandts an [ and which are (each one) very beautiful, investment in a few bulbs next fall, if only a half Hecate (a study in brown and grey), Mars (a [O-CYCLUS IRIS MARS. THIS IS ONE Ol' A BEAUTIFUL NEW RACE DESCRIBED ON THIS PAGE. dozen of each of some of the finer varieties, and see each for himself the wonders of these flowers. In the first three classes, if I were to choose four out of each as introductory lists, they should be these : Cottage or May-flowering Tulips — Retro- blue-blooded beauty) and Psyche (a sort of combi- nation of the two, with bluish standards and brownish falls) are the ones I hope to start with, and the first two are among the cheaper ones. A fourth, which is distinct, being of fle.xa superba. Moonlight, The Fawn, Inglescombe a sort of pale wine red colour, is Hera. I hope Pink. Darwins — Clara Butt, Rev. H. Ewbank, ' to include this too ; and to make up half a dozen Gudin and Euphrosyne. Breeders — Coridion, I am making a plunge from the descriptions in Golden Bronze and Louis XIV. . . . Would the catalogue, and am going for Irene, " a very that I might have named Zomerschoon in the chaste flower of a silvery white with chocolate Cottage group — Zomerschoon, that too costly Tulip brown veins," and Medusa, "deep violet, veined of unforgettable beauty." J. J. ' on a violet blue ground." Joseph Jacob. June 13, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 309 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. CUCUMBERS AND TOMATOES IN FRAMES : A USE FOR THE COLD FRAME IN THE SUMMER. WHILE during winter and spring the cold frames are taxed to the utmost of their holding capacity, in the summer as a rule they are very little used. Among the numerous purposes for which the cold frame is adapted in the summer is the cultivation of Cucumbers and Tomatoes, These are welcome in most houses, and, as with most other home-grown produce, are doubly so wlien freshly cut from one's own garden. The Frame Cucumber. — Though comparatively few amateur gardeners attempt the cultivation of Cucumber plants, they are really very easy to grow. To provide heat in the frame during the early stages of the growth of the plants, a hot- bed of manure and leaves should be made up. For a two-light frame not less than two loads, of fresh straw manure and one load of leaves will be required. Get this together a fortnight in advance, mix it up thoroughly several times, watering if dry. Make up the bed r8 inches wider and longer than the frame, and about two feet deep. Tread firmly, stand the frame in position on the bed, and place in the middle of each light a mound of nice fibrous loamy soil. As fermentation of the manure proceeds, there will be a certain amount of steam in the frame, which must be allowed to escape by leaving a crack for ventilation. In from a week to ten days the frame will be ready for the Cucumber plants. It is as well to raise these in the greenhouse, sowing the seeds in pots about a month before it is pro- posed to plant them in the frame. This may be done at any convenient time from April to the end of June. Sow two seeds in a 3j-inch pot. If TOMATOES PLANTED IN A COLD FRAME, WITH YOUNG LETTUCES GROWING UNDERNEATH. both germinate, pull out the weaker one. When grow- ing freely, move into 6-inch pots, so that good, sturdy plants will be avail- able when the frame is ready. Would-be growers of Cucumbers who have no greenhouse should plant the seeds straight in the soil of the frame. The plants will grow quite as well, the only differ- ence being that they will be a month later. Two plants are sufficient in each light of an ordinary frame. Three are shown in the illus- tration, one e.xtra being put in in case of loss. Should all thrive well, it is far easier to pull one out than to put another in. Cucumber plants revel in a moist heat. In the morning and afternoon syringe with tepid water, unless a cold, wet period is experienced, when once a day will be ample. This will keep the soil fairly moist, but probably the roots will require an additional watering about once a week. Shade the plants from hot sun, damping down, syringing and closing up about the middle of the afternoon to shut in some of the sun-heat. As soon as the young plants have made four or five leaves, take out the growing tips to encourage branching shoots. Spread these evenly over the ground, stopping again at intervals as growth proceeds. From time to time it will be necessary to re- move some of the older leaves, and probably shoots also, as crowded plants are by no means the most fruitful, but rather the opposite. Re- garding good sorts to grow in a frame, choice may be made from Reliance (the one illustrated, which fruits very early). Telegraph, CUCUMBERS IN A COLD FRAME. IF ALL GROW WELL ONE WILL BE REMOVED LATER. Rochford's Market, and Cluster (a free-fruiting small variety). Tomatoes. — During favourable summers Tomatoes produce a good crop of fruits outside, particularly when planted against a sunny south wall or fence. To supplement these a few plants should be cultivated in frames, as illustrated. Grown under glass in this way, the fruits ripen a month earlier, and as a rule the crop is heavier and of better quality. This is especially pro- nounced when there is not an excessive amount of warm, sunny weather during July and August to help the outdoor plants. A two-light frame will take six plants, three in each light. Plant these at the bottom i foot to 15 inches apart, with the growths leaning to the top of the frame. If the slope of the frame is not fairly steep, it should be raised a foot at the back by placing bricks under the woodwork on the ground. Air admitted here will do no harm ; in fact, if anything it will be beneficial. Strain stout string or wire on hooks from the top to the bottom of the frame, one strand for each plant, as illustrated. Restrict each plant to a single stem, removing all side shoots, and regularly tie the leader to the string, or the top will be constantly touching the glass. Grow the plants entirely without shading the lights. Nothing is more liable to prevent the free setting of the flowers than heavy shading. Mulch the plants when growth is proceeding satisfactorily, and attend regularly to watering. Useful sorts to cultivate in frames are Early Market, Holmes' Supreme, Sunrise and Duke of York. In the illustration it will be noticed that there are also Lettuces growing in the frame with the Tomatoes. A crop such as this can be very well grown in the frame while the Tomatoes are small, but they must, of course, be rembved.-i:? before the latter get so large as to obscure the' light. 310 THE GARDEN. [June 13, 1914. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. Strawberries. — Now that strawberry forcing is over, it is necessary to make preparation for next season's crop, and, assuming that a plantation was made in the autumn with a view to supplymg earlv runners, there should be no difficulty now in finding sufficient for the early batch of plants, and these ought to be inserted in small, clean pots with as little delay as possible. Good rich 'oain should be used, and the pots may be half plunged in the soil between the rows of plants in order to reduce the need of frequent watering. Melons in Frames.— These should now be making rapid progress and ought to be kept well thinned. Remove worthless growth from plants which are setting their fruits, and attend to the pollination of these every morning as soon as flowers and foliage are dry. As soon as a full crop has been secured, the shoots may be stopped at the first or second joiat beyond the fruit, accord- ing to the space available, and a good soaking of clear water given. When the fruits are swelling freely, they may be placed on small inverted pots in order to. expose them to the light, and also as a protection from insects. Syriage the plants freely on fine mornings, but avoid damping the foliage on dull days. A stagnant atmosphere must always be avoided. As the season advances and fruits are swelling freely, the plants should be assisted by liquid manure in some form, which must be kept quite clear of the stems. Further plantations ought to be made and seeds sown for succession. Plants Under Glass. Zonal Pelargoniums. — Plants which are intended for flowering in autumn and winter should now be ready for potting into 6-inch pots. Place them in a cool pit quite near the glass, and when they have become established they must be freely ventilated, and afterwards removed to the open and placed on a bed of ashes. Pinch the strongest shoots as it becomes necessary to keep the plants in shape. The most suitable soil for this purpose is good rich loam with a sprinkling of old lime rubble. A few crushed bones may be placed over the crocks with advantage. Heliotrope. — ^This is a useful plant for the conservatory during the autumn, and for this purpose young plants which were rooted in the autumn or spring may be potted and grown on in a cool, well-ventilated pit. Pinch the strongest shoots to keep the plants in shape. The soil may consist of two-thirds turfy loam and one- third leaf-soil, which should be made moderately firm. Tuberous Begonias. — These plants will now be making rapid progress in their flowering pots, and must be carefully staked in order to secure the maximum amoimt of light among the shoots. Seedling plants in pots should be potted on as soon as ready, so that the best may be selected for pot culture next season. Chrysanthemums. — The final potting should be accomplished with as little delay as possible. Stand the plants in some open, quarter in order to prevent them from becoming drawn. As soon as the pots are well filled with roots, some stimulant should be applied several times weekly. Fuchsias for autumn flowering may be grown in any cool structure. Water freely with liquid manure as soon as the plants are established and pinch side shoots as it becomes necessary to keep them in shape. The Flower Garden. Summer-Flowering Chrysanthemums. — These are growing freely, and should be carefully staked before growth is too far advanced. Thin the shoots to five or six on each plant, and stake separately, allowing sufficient space between them to admit plenty of light and air. Water freely during dry weather, and hoe the soil between the plants at frequent intervals. ^Summer Bedding. — To encourage free growth among plants which have recently been bedded out, the syringe should be used each evening and the beds watered at frequent intervals. Stake the plants as early as possible, and, as many of them will require pegging down to the ground, this should also be accomplished as soon as possible. Verbenas, Petunias and Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums are among the first to require attention. Planting Dahlias. — There must be no delay in planting and staking Dah'ias in the case of spring-struck plants with single stems. A careful watch should be kept for slugs, which will soon destroy young plants. Every effort ought to be made to complete the planting of all tender subjects as quickly as possible, so that they may not become stunted before they are put out. The Kitchen Garden. Mushrooms. — Beds may now be made up behind a north wall or in a shed facing east for the supply of Mushrooms during September and October, Let the material be well prepared and trodden tightly together to the depth of 2 feet, in order to retain the heat as long as possible after spawning, which should take place when the temperature of the bed is as near 80° as possible. After a few days, when the heat is inclined to drop, a covering of long litter may be placed over the surface to prevent evaporation. Runner Beans. — A second sowing may be made now in order to keep up a supply as far into the autumn as possible. Stake the plants as soon as sufficiently advanced, and give a liberal supply of water during the summer months. Lettuce. — Make frequent small sowings of Lettuce seed, and transplant some of the seedlings as soon as large enough. By this means a con- tinual supply may be available through the summer. A cool situation should be chosen for the next few sowings, and if the soil is of a heavy nature, so much the better. If dry weather prevails, frequent waterings will be necessary. Small sowings of Endive may also be made and treated in the same way as Lettuce. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Cauliflowers. — Make another small sowing of these to keep up a succession to those sown in March, To many this might be thought to be much too late, yet it is astonishing what useful heads can be had from this sowing. As it is necessary to keep up the supply, sow Early London, Walcheren and a little seed of Autumn Giant. In consequence of the extremely cold weather ex- perienced in many places in May, a good many of those planted earlier may have buttoned. Go over the plot and make up the blanks from the seed-bed. Leeks. — The most forward plants will now be ready for planting, and as these are gross feeders and cannot very well be fed from the surface, it is essential that the ground be well manured before planting. Rake the ground quite fine and make holes 9 inches apart and 15 inches bet%veen the rows. Many growers cut off the tops of the leaves before planting, averring that it greatly strengthens the roots ; but for ordinary purposes it seems to me to be immaterial whether they are cut or not. Cucumbers. — Now that most of the frames will be empty, a few plants may be put in as advised some weeks ago. After planting, keep the frames fairly close for a time, and throw a mat over them during the hottest part of the day. By all means guard against cold winds and draughts, and supply abundance of moisture during the earlier stages of growth. The Flower Garden. Roses. — Among the various sections of Roses, perhaps the present time will be the most interest- ing and possibly the most anxious. The Tea- scented varieties growing against walls will, in many cases, have suffered rather severely from the attacks by aphis during the unusually cold spell in May. At that season the foliage is more susceptible to injury than at any period of their growth. When the foliage appears ciurled, there is no doubt that the maggot has got a footing, and hand picking will be out of the question. Syringe the bushes with Quassia Extract or other approved insecticide to prevent it spreading, and, being against a wall, it is more than likely they will require moisture at the roots. Among Rose's of recent introduction, which, in the majority of cases, are rather weak, it will be advisable to pmch out the earliest flower-buds, which will have the effect of throwing vigour into the plant, Spring-Flowering Plants. — Those plants that were used for spring bedding, such as single and double Arabis, Polyanthuses, Aubrietias and Daisies, must be attended to at once, as very frequently they have to be moved to make room for the summer occupants before they have completed their growth. They should be divided and planted in nursery lines to make stock for next season's supply, and, should the weather be dry, an occasional watering will be necessary. Such plants as Myosotis and Alyssum saxatile are best grown from seed, and may be sown now. Herbaceous Plants. — These will now require constant attention in the way of staking and tying, and some of the most delicate sorts, such as Ostrowskia, Scabiosa caucasica and many others that are subject to attacks from slugs, should have the soil stirred round them and be given a dusting of soot. See that the stronger-growing sorts are not allowed to encroach on the weaker-growing plants ; each plant should stand out distinctly. Plants Under Glass. Stove and Greenhouse Climbers. — Most of these are growing luxuriantly and must, to a certain extent, be held in check. In thinning and tying and otherwise regulating the long growths, regard must be had to the particuJar plant in hand ; weakly shoots should be removed and larger ones looped up in the most natural manner possible. Cuttings can be taken of Hibiscus. I find they root readily, and if pinched and allowed to remain in comparatively small pots, they soon show flowers. These will be found to be extremely effective arranged among Ferns. Bouvardias. — The young plants that were potted some weeks ago will now be ready for a further shift into a size larger pot. Now that the weather is getting warmer, they may be moved into a frame, and for a time they should be slightly shaded during the hottest part of the day. Give them a slight spraying with the syringe twice daily, and as they advance in growth they will be greatly benefited by occasional waterings with weak liquid manure. Any shoots getting away from the others should be pinched to promote a compact habit. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Apples and Pears. — Trees growing on walls should now be gone over and have the shoots stopped. This must be done carefully, as, if all the shoots were pinched indiscriminately, the result would be that the strongest would again break into growth and produce a lot of small, useless wood. These vigorous shoots should be left somewhat longer than the weak ones, and can be finally shortened back at the winter pruning. Remove all badly placed and ill-shaped fruits, and leave no more on the tree than it is capable of bearing. I see caterpillars are becoming very troublegeme, possibly owing to the recent cold weather. Means should be taken to prevent them spreading by vigorously syringing with Quassia Extract or some other approved insecticide. Fruits Under Glass. Vines. — Young pot Vines for next year's fruiting will now be growing rapidly and may be assisted with liquid manure or a little of Thomson's Vine Manure. They must be kept free from spider, as any damage to the foliage from insects or other- wise will most certainly have an injurious effect on the proper ripening of the canes. The laterals should be closely pinched, and the leader stopped when the desired length has been attained. Figs. — The second crop will now be showing nicely on the earliest trees, and the fruit should be thinned out judiciously. Pinch the young growths as they advance, say, at the fifth leaf, unless, of course, an extension is wanted. Those growing in pots will require to be carefully attended to, as, if allowed to become dry, they receive a serious check, John Highgate, (Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.) Hopeloun Gardens, South Queenslerry, N.B. June 13, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 311 NEW AND RARE PLANTS. AWARDS OF MERIT. Iris Iota. — An interesting and beautiful hybrid, having for its parents the Califomian I. Purdyi and I. tenax from North-Westem America. The new-comer partakes more of the first-named species, the creamy or whitish ground being freely reticulated with lilac and rose. From Mr. Rickarton Dykes, Godalming. Iris Chrysographes. — This beautiful and grace- ful kind was shown by Miss Willmott and Mr. Dykes. It is probably allied to the I, sibirica set, and has the same narrow grassy leafage. The dominating colour tone is intense violet and imperial purple, the long, ovate-acuminate blade of the falls exceedingly rich in colour, Erigeron hybridus B. Ladhams. The pot-grown plants were 2| feet high, the predominating colour tone of the flower-heads rosy pink, quite a new shade in this family. From Mr. Ladhams, Southampton. Lupinus Primrose Dame. — A charming variety, having deep canary-coloured flowers in long spikes. In general appearance it is a glorified Tree Lupine, the greatly extended raceme of flowers suggesting the influence of L. polyphyllus. Really, the flower- spike is that of the latter, the habit that of the Tree Lupine. A valuable plant. From Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden. Papaver Lady Frederick Moore. A very handsome Oriental Poppy. The pink colour is very charming. From Mr. Amos Perry, Enfield. Clematis Sieboldii. — Of this very old and beautiful species a well-flowered example on balloon trellis was shown by Miss Will- mott, Warley Place. The petals are rounded and white, which contrasts well with the spreading cluster of floral leaves at the centre of the flower. Verbascum Warley Rose. — A 5-feet-high specimen of this was shown in a tub. It is invaluable by reason of its colour, which is of rose pink shade and quite new in this fine race of plants. The branching raceme is much more graceful than the c'.ose spikes of older varieties. Given freedom, this must become a great garden plant. At present it is unique. From Miss Willmott, Warley Place. Deutzia discolor elegantissima. — A very beauti- ful shrubby kind with a profusion of pink- flowered trusses in axillary clusters on long, arching, graceful branches. The starry flowers add a charm to a delightful plant. Ij. Ribes Brocklebankii. — Valuable for the uniform greenish golden colour of its leaves, and likely to be of service for grouping in conjunction with others of more sombre tone. These came from Elizabeth Lady Lawrence, Dorking (gardener, Mr. W. Bain). Mimulus Wargrave Fireflame. — A dwarf- growing kind with large flowers of brownish scarlet hue, very freely produced. The plant is about eight inches high and very striking. Shown by Messrs. John Waterer, Sons and Crisp, Limited, Bagshot and Twyford. Iris laevigata alba. — This is the white-flowered form of the typical species, and a beautiful and rare plant. Iris sibirica Emperor. — As far removed by its superiority from I. s, orientalis as that fine variety is from the typical species, than which we do not think we can better describe it. In colour it is deeper and richer. A good plant in every way. Iris Kashmir White. — Best described as a giant pallida form, with handsome white flowers on 4-feet-high stems. The lateral branches are unusually long, which gives the plant an import- AWARDS TO STRAIN. Lupines. — Hybrids of arboreus and polyphyllus, embracing yellows, rose and yellow, violet, blue and white, lavender and dark blue. From Messrs. Barr and Sons. Aquilegias. — A particularly high-class lot in which scarlet and yellow, cream, white, pink and other shades combined. From Mrs. Scott- Elliott, Teviot Lodge, Hawick, N,B. Antirrhinums. — A remarkable range of colours in the three degrees of heights, viz., Tom Thumb, Medium and Tail, was displayed, the flowers and spikes being of exceptional size. For fuller details see report of the show. From Messrs, Dobbie and Co., Edinburgh, All the foregoing were shown before the floral committee of the Royal Horticultural Society on the 3rd inst,, when the awards were made. ANSWERS TO COR- RESPONDENTS. RIBES BROCKLEBANKII, A NEW HARDY SHRUB WITH BEAUTIFUL GOLDEN FOLIAGE. ance of its own. These three widely distinct and good garden Irises came from Messrs. R. W. Wallace and Co., Colchester. Carnation Mrs. Griffith Jones. — A superbly formed flower of soft apricot colouring. A very charming variety. Carnation Mrs. Brotherstone. — A freckled or fancy sort, in which the predominating shades are purplish and crimson. The flower is very large, of superb form and strongly Clove scented. Carnation Robert Bruce. — Deep apricot, with almost orange shading, which adds in- tensity to an exceptionally rich bit of colour. A very fine self. These three fine novelties were shown by Mr. James Douglas, Great Bookham, Surrey. FLOWER GARDEN. ANTIRRHINUMS DISEASED (E. K. P.). — The Antirrhinums are attacked by the fungus Septoria Antir- rhini. This fungus is apparently spread- ing over the coiintry, and we have had several complaints lately of tlie damage it has caused. Remove the diseased portions as completely as possible, and spray the remainder with potassium sulphide at the rate of loz. to three gallons of water. " FIRE" IN TULIPS (TF. IF.).— The Tulips are suffering from " fire," due to the attack of the fungus Sclerotinia parasitica. You will see that we have given an account of the method of dealing with this to several of our correspondents lately in our columns, and think it would be as well to destroy the bulbs of Golden Crown and remove the soil as completely as possible, so as to avoid harbouring the resting bodies of the fungus for another year, replac- ing it with fresh soil. TREATING A SLOPE (The Birches). — The terraced arrangement would, wc think, prove rather formal, and two other ways remain if not incongruous with the surroundings. These are level- ling up the bank and constructing a retaining wall at the front, specially arranged to receive a fine vegetation, which would also permit of bedding plants on the fiat area above, or it may be done down in grass. The other way would be to construct a small rockery on the slope. Either of these would add permanent interest to the surroundings and do away with your present difficulty. The better time for the above work would be eaily autumn. If you think we can further assist you, please write us again. TULIPS DISEASED (J. F. B.).— The Tulips are affected by the fungus Sclerotinia parasitica, to which we have frequently referred of late. The fungus is apt to form rest- ing bodies in the soil and to attack Tulips planted therein in succeeding years. It also forms resting bodies just in the necks of the Tulip bulbs, and so may be carried over from year to year. The disease is always most prevalent when the foliage is exposed during its growing period either to cold winds or frosts, and it repays the attention for shields of Broom or other shrubs to be put among the growing plants. TREES AND SHRUBS. K.).— Of the Loniceras ABOUT LONICERAS (Mrs. concerning which you enquire, Lonicera nitida, of com- paratively recent introduction from China, is a neat, twiggy evergreen shrub, clothed mth small, ovate, glossy leaves of a leathery character. The fiowcrs are creamy white and fragrant, but not large enough to be very conspicuous. Lonicera xylosteum reaches a height of 5 feet to 6 feet and more. The flowers are small and cream- coloured, and altogether it is not of high ornamental value. The third, L. tartarica splendens, will at times consider- ably exceed the height of 6 feet, but may be kept down to 312 THE GARDEN. [June 13, 1914. that if required. Tlie flowers, wliich arc borne in April and May, are reddisli in colour. Loniccra nitida may be associated witli choice shrubs, but the other two are only fit tor the wilder shrubbery. They are of a very accommo- dating nature, perfectly hardy, and will grow m any ordinary soil. MISCELLANEOUS. CRAB APPLE LEAVES (Mrs. M.).— The leaves of the 4.pple sent are apparently suffering from cold draughts, and the brown spots may prove a centre from which fundus attacks may spread. It would be well to spray the"trees with half-strensth Bordeaux mixture in order to cheek the trouble. NAMES OF PLANTS— If . J- .S.— We beUeve the Rose to be Mm-. Jules Siegfried, if it is a climber : if a dwarf grower, it may be Zephyr. -E. M. Whittlesey.— Liose Captain C.iristv ; it a strong grower it would be the climb- in" form of thii old Rose. Ignciriimus.—Rose General Schablikine. Subscriber. —Sedma roseum, Rose-root or Cudde-me-tlght. B. B. Astrop.—l. Achillea Huteri ; 2, Achillea rupestris ; 3, Sedum Aizoon variety.— ill E K.— Syringa persica. A. W. i?.— Geranium svlvaticum IF. D. — 1, Cotoneaster horizontalis ; 2, dlearia Haasti ; 3, Arbutus Unedo (Strawberry Tree) ; 4, Buxus sempervirens (common Box); 5, Spiraea van Houttei ; 6, Crattegns Pyracantha. C. P. Kmson.— The Lilac sent was'onc of the many unnamed forms of Svrinoavulnaris. It was apparently a semi-double variety, biit too tar faded or withered to tell.-— -Tf. J. H.— 1, Rose HomSre; 2, Mirie d'Orleans; 3, Salvia pratcnsis ; 4 Rubu3nutkanu3(Salm:m-berry); 5, Eubus laciniatus; 6 Rubu* phcenicolasius (Wineberry). Treat the Rubus spe'ies like Raspberry for fruiting. -TF. E. P.— Scilia peraviaila. S. Q. H.— Raphiolepis ovata — — Minorid—1, Anthurium scherzerianum; 2, Begonia Rex var ■ 3 Ornithogalum lactenm; 4, specimen too scrappy to iden'tifv; 5, Zebrina pendula; 6, Tradescantia crassi- folia- 7 Plumbago rosea; 8, cannot name without flowers; 9, cannot name without flowers; 10, Chloro- phytum datum; 11, Sparmannia africana; 12, Cyperui alternifolius; 13, cannot name without flowers; 14, Be^onii weltoneusis; 13, Begonia sp.. cannot name with- out" flowers; 16, Crassilla coccinea; 17, Cotyledon sp.; 18 cannot name witliout flowers; 19, Campanula isophylla; 20, cannot mm' without flowers. There is nothing wrong with the Vine leaf ; it is apparently quite healthy J. J .—1, Cochlcaria officinalis; 2, Saxifraga cuneifolia; 3, Saxifraga granulata flore plcno; 4, Saxi- fraga Aizoon. M. I.. Bucks.— 1. Spiraa japonica ; 2, Neillil opulifolia; 3, Prunus Padtis (Bird Cherry); 4, Spirsea Thunbergii. SOCIETIES. NATIONAL HARDY PLANT SOCIETY. There was a very poor attendance at the above society's show, held in the Royal Horticultural Society's Hall, Vincent Square, Westminster, on June 4. The com- petitive classes were feebly contested, except perhaps the class for a decorated table, in which competition was very keen. The trade exhibits were very good, and it seem? a great pity that the show was not better patronised. The following is a list of medals awarded : Large Gold Medals. Messrs. Dobbic and Co., Edinburgh, for a magnificent collection of Antirrhinums and Aquilegias. ^ Messrs. Ivelw.iv and Son. Langport, for a choice assort- ment of Delphiniums, Piconies and Pyrethrums, for which this firm has a world-wide reputation. Mr. James Box, Hayward's Heath, for a most inter- esting group of hardy flowers, including P^onia alba grandiflora and P. lobata. An award of m?rit was granted to the latter. Messrs. Piper for a vast collection of hardy flowers, including Saxifrages and Campanulas. Small Gold Med-^ls. Messrs. H. B. May and Sons for Ferns. Messrs. G. and A. Clark. Limited, and Messri. W. and J. Brown. Peterborough, for extensive groups of hardy flowers, in which Ereniurus robusta was conspicuous. Messrs. Barr and Sons for an intensely interesting collection of Irises, Lupines and Lilies. Mr. Amos Perry for Oriental Poppies. SiLVER-aiLT Medals. Messrs. Phillips and Tavlor, Messrs. T. S. Ware, Limited, and Messrs. Cutbush and Sons, all for groups of hardy flowers. Messrs. Waterer, Sons and Crisp for a miscellaneous group of hardy flowers, in which we noted Dianthus inodorus and D. dependens. Messrs. Sutton and Sons for Aquilegias, a remarkably fine long-spurred strain. Messrs. Harkness and Sons for an extensive collection of Oriental Poppies and Lupines. iMessrs. James Veitch and Sons for Irises, Eremuri, Anchusa and other choice hardy flowers. Mr. Frank Bouskell and Messrs. W. Artindale and Sons for hardy flowers. Silver Medals. Messrs. R. H. Bath, Limited, Wisbech, for Tulips, also Pieonies and Lupines, The Misses Hopkins for rock plants. Mr. G. W. Miller for herbaceous flowers. Messrs. Reamsbottom and Co. for St. Brigid Anemones and Lupines. Mr. Renthe for beautiful and little-known alpines and shrubs. Mr. Clarence Elliott for a well-planted garden of alpines. Messrs. Ladhams, Limited, for hardy flowers. Awards of Merit. Campanula Hoft in oofcert.— Shown by Messrs. Piper. A graceful species, growing about eighteen inches in height. The slender stems are heavily laden. with pale mauve blue flowers. It is a biennial, and seeds very freely. Erigeron Asa Gray. — Shown by Messrs. Artindale and Son. The flowers are uncommon — being light biscuit-coloured — and freely produced about eighteen inches from the ground. Erigeron hybridus B. Ladhams. — A rosy pink variety with a pleasing bronze tint in the bud. Height 2 feet, very free. From Messrs. B. Ladhams, Limited, Shirley Nurseries, Southampton. Erysimum UnifoHum. — A free-flowering alpine with mauve-tinted flowers borne over a long season. Sho\vn bv Mr. Clarence Elliott. ' Pceonia lobata. — A beautiful species with pink. Tulip- shaped flowers, showm by Mr. James Box. BATH AND WEST AND SOUTHERN COUNTIES AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY. The annual exhibition of this society opened in glorious weather at Swansea on May 28, and for the number of exhibits and general interest it well maintained its reputa- tion of former years. The horticultural section was again a distinct success, and was, in fact, more extensive than usual. Many of the trade Arms of the immediate neigh- bourhood were represented, also others from further afield. Sweet Peas were a prominent feature, exceptionally noticeable being groups from Messrs. Dobbic and Co., Edinburgh ; I\Ir. W. Tresedcr, nurseryman, Cardiff ; and Miss Hemus, Upton-on-Severn. In the first-named group conspicuous varieties were Bobbie's Orange, Mclba, Lavender, King Manoel, Royal Purple and Norma. In the next group Phyllis Bide, Prince George, Scarlet Emperor, Edith Taylor and Maud Holmes attracted attention ; while Miss Hemus staged numerous varieties of the Paradise strain. Crimson, Scarlet, White, Amazon and Mrs. Harriet Hemus being all very fine. Messrs. John Waterer of Bagshot sent a very nice group of Rhododendrons, as also did Mr. James Harris, nursery- man, Blackpill. The latter's group occupied the end of the large tent and also a considerable outdoor space. In addition, he exhibited a large and interesting group of mixed Primulas and St. Brigid Anemones. Roses were well shown by Mr. Roland Adams, White Wells Nurseries, Bath ; Messrs. W^alters and Son, Bath ; Messrs. George Cooling and Sons, Bath ; and Messrs. Paul and Sons, Cheshunt. For general interest the exhibit of Messrs. R. Veitch and Sons, Exeter, was perhaps the best in the show. In a large and prettily arranged group were found Sarra- cenias, Ferns, Japanese Maples, various stove foliage plants, alpines, and trees and shrubs. Among the latter were finely flowered branches or plants of Sophora tetra- ptera, Buddleia ColviUei, Fendlera rupicola, Solanum crispum, S. jasminoides, Tricuspidaria lanceolata, Robinia Kelseyi, Olearia insignis, &c. The follomng plants were also very striking : Leucopogon Richei, Nertera depressa, Gerberas and Streptocarpus in variety, Lathyrus splcndens. Calceolaria Forgettii, C. Golden Glory, C. Vcitchii and Ceimisia spectabilis. Messrs. Godfrey and Sons, Exmouth, exhibited a large group of Pelargoniums, showing several sections of the genus, while their Oriental Poppies were also very fine. In a large group of miscellaneous plants, the president of the show, Sir J. T. D. Llewelyn, included Palms, Schizanthus, Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Primula sikkim- ensis, &c. Begonias were well shown by Messrs. Blackmorc and Langdon, Twerton Hill Nursery, the basket varieties Eunice, Golden Shower and Gladys being much admired. The same firm exliibited a fine group of Delphiniums, Carnations and other plants. Delphinium Lord Curzon and D. Statuaire Rude wore specially fine. Messrs. William Cutbush and Son, Highgatc, in a taste- fully arranged mixed group included Hoses, Carnations, Lilies, Japanese Maples, Palms, Rhododendrons, yellow Richardias and other plants. Herbaceous plants, including Pyrethrums, Gaillardias, Heucheras, Incarvillea Delavayi and others, were shown by Messrs. Rich and Co. of Bath ; while Mr. W. Treseder of Cardiff, Messrs. Bakers of Wolverhampton, and Messrs. H. and W. Evans, Cardiff, sent very good groups of similar kinds of plants. The feature of Messrs. Reamsbottom's exhibit from Geashill, King's County, Ireland, was St. Brigid Anemones, the flowers being shapely and richly coloured. Centaurcas from Messrs. Jarman and Co., Chard; Pyrethrums from Messrs. TupUn and Son, Newton Abbot ; and Sweet Peas from Messrs. Bide of Farnham were much admired. Lilies and herbaceous plants were well shown by Messrs, Wallace of Colchester, Habranthus pratensis, Eremuri, Allium rosenbachianum, Primula bulleyana and Oriental Poppies being very conspicuous in a large and decorative group. In the same tent Mr. Maurice Prichard exhibited an interesting set of rock plants, while a large and varied collection of rare shrubs was shown by the Donard Nursery Company, Newcastle, County Down. Ferns and Cacti from Mr. H. N. Ellison of West Brom- wich came in for great admiration, the Ferns especially being wonderfully well grown. Carnations from the Countess Cawdor were also much admired. Messrs. Young and Co.. Hatherley, Cheltenham, pro- vided an extensive group of Carnations, in which Scarlet Glow, Mrs. C. W. Ward. Carola, Duchess of Devonshire and the Hon. Lady Neeld were conspicuous, ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. The last meeting was held on Wednesday, June 3, at Vincent Square. Westminster. The show was of a high standard, particularly in respect of hardy flowers; but the attendance was not great, owing, no doubt, to the show being held in holiday week. Fruit and Vegetable Committee. Present: A. H. Pearson, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs. J. Cheal, W. Bates, J. Willard, E. Beckett, H. J. Wright, A. Bullock, Owen Thomas and W. Poupart. A silver Banksian medal was awarded to C. Eric Hambro, Esq.. The Gardens, Pickhurst Mead, Kent, for a group of Melons. Orchid Committee. For the first time for a very long while no awards were made to new Orchids. There was, however, an unusually long list of novelties to gain awards from the floral com- mittee, which more than compensated for the lack of novelty among the Orchids shown on this occasion. The following awards were made to groups of Orchids : Silver Flora Medals.— H. T. Pitt, Esq., Stamford Hill ; Messrs. Sander and Sons. Messrs. Charlesworth and Co.. Messrs. Stuart Low and Co. and Messrs. Armstrong and Brown. Silver Banksian Medals. — Messrs. Hassall and Co. and Messrs. .T. and A. McBean. Floral CoM>nTTEE, Present : H. B. May, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs. W. A. Bilnev, E. A. Bowles, W^ J. Bean, J. W^ Barr, G. Reuthe, J. W. Moorman, C. R. Fielder, C. Blick, W. Howe, J. Jennings, W. Bain. R. W. Wallace, C. E. Shea, G. Paul, W. Cuthbertson. W\ P. Thomson, J. T. Bennett-Po6. E. H. Jenkins, J. F. McLeod, W. H. Page, F. W. Harvey and A. Turner. Messrs. R.' H. Bath, Limited, W'isbech, staged a nice lot of Sweet Peas and Tulips. Of the former, Scarlet Emperor, Orange Perfection, Walter P. Wright (lavender). Lady Miller (pink and cream). Glow (a nice shade of orange scarlet) and Lilian (pink) were some of the more distinct. Of the Tulips, gesneriana lutea. Orange Globe, Parisian Yellow, Flambeau, Baronne de la Tonnaye (fine rose) and Moralis (rich purple) were among the best. Messrs. Dobbie and Co., Edinburgh, arranged a glorious . bank of Antirrhinums and Sweet Peas, the former in the three sets of Tom Thumb, medium and major varieties, and perhaps nothing in the show attracted a greater share of attention. Snapdragons are everybody's flowers, and may be gro^vn by all. Of the more important we noted Maize Queen, Amber Queen, Rose Queen, Yellow Queen. Sunset (red and yellow) and nobile (which embraces the shades of colour seen jn the Dendrobium of that name). These all belong to the medium set. Cottage Maid (crimson), Queen of the North (fine white), Delicata (pink and white) and Tom Thumb (white) were all good. The Sweet Peas were an equal success and finely grown. Lavender G. Herbert, Melba, Bobbie's Orange, Bobbie's Cream, Frilled Pink, Alfred Watkins (a fine lavender) and Thomas Stevenson (orange scarlet) were among the best vases of these fiowers. Messrs. John Waterer, Sons and Crisp, Limited. Bagshot and Twyford, set up a bank of Irises, Lupines, Pyrethrums and Poppies. All were in very charming array, and quite representative of their class. Tlie Irises of the pallida set were very beautiful and in fine array. Gaillardias, too, were well shown. At one end of the group choice alpines were staged, Lewisia rediviva and Dianthus alpinus albus being among the more important. Mr. George Prince, Oxford, displayed an interesting lot of Rose species and varieties. The rarer kinds included Rosa hemisphaerica, golden yellow, flowers very double ; R. watsoniana, with very fine foliage; R. ochrolcuca, yellow flowers, small foliage ; R. nitida, virtually a pygmy R. rugosa ; and R. spinosissima, pale yellow. Comtesse de Nadaillac among Hybrid Teas was very charming. Messrs. R. \V. Wallace and Co., Colchester, had a delightful lot of Irises, both species and varieties. In the Flag section we noted such as Miss Wells, Isolene, Kashmir White, flavescens, Lady Foster (a lovely blue pallida form of great stature), Kashmir (fine blue) and Caterina (a grand pallida form nearly four feet high). Hybrid forms of Cushion and other Irises were also on view ; also the white-flowered form of I. l0e\'igata, a most graceful plant. Messrs. H. B. May and Sons, Edmonton, had a nice display of Heliotrope, Hydrangea Mme. MouUifirc; Fuchsias, Verbena Miss Willmott and V. King of Scarlets. The pink-flowered Verbena Miss Willmott was particularly good, well-flowered examples being shown in 5-inch pots. Mr. H. Burnett, Guernsey, had a very fine assortment of Carnations, the handsome flowers well disposed in large vases. Carola (crimson), Salmon Enchantress, Marmion, Monarch, Snowstorm, Pluto (crimson). Mandarin (fancy), Mary Allwood, Enchantress Supreme, Mrs. Clode, Geisha and Scarlet Glow w^erc the more prominent. fllessrs. Kelway and Son. Langport, Somerset, had a capital table of Paouies and Delphiniums, Wilbur Wright (crimson), Balliol (pink). Purity (white) and Homer (double pink) being among the best. Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Enfield, had a fine show of Carnations Princess of Wales, Baroness do Brienea, Gorgeous, Carola, Princess Juliana and Venus, the last, a pure white Perpetual Malmaison, being very fine. Messrs. H. Cannell and Sons, Eynsford, Kent, had a full table of rambler and pillar Roses, of which Lady Gay, American Pillar, White Dorothy, Blush lUmbler, Dorothy Perkins, Excelsior (very rich and beautiful in colour) and Dorothy Dennison were all very fine. The whole of the plants were pot-grown examples about six feet high and flowering most prof\isely. The plants made u great show. GARDEN. -^<^'- |— *'~~SS^ef^i No. 2222.— Vol. LXXVIII. June 20, 1914. NOTES OF THE WEEK. To Our Readers. — To meet the wishes of many of our readers, we have decided to publish The Garden a day earlier than usual. Copies should now be on sale at all London book- stalls and newsagents on Wednesday morning instead of Thursday as hitherto, and in the provinces on Thursday morning instead of Friday. We shall be glad if any reader who experiences difficulty in obtaining The Garden regularly will communicate with us. Eremurus robUStUS. — The tall, stately spikes of Eremurus robustus make a striking appearance in many gardens in June. It is a native of Turkestan, and difficulty is sometimes experienced in its cultivation. It does best when given deep, rich, well-drained soil on a south border. The illustration depicts a group of this noble plant flowering on a sunny slope in Sir Frank Crisp's gardens at Friar Park, Henley-on-Tbames. A Pleasing Combination. — Eucalyptus globulus makes a very pretty decorative plant, particularly when used in combina- tion with Delphiniums of various shades of blue, the glaucous hue of the foliage of the one forming a harmony of colour with that of the flowers of the Delphi- niums. If such beds are edged with one of the red Lobelias, cardinalis or fulgens or their varieties, they will give a pleasing effect. Useful Plants for the Greenhouse. — We were very much pleased the other day by a fine group of Calceolaria Clibranii intermixed with Nicotiana Sanderze. All the plants were well grown, and made a very attractive display. Both are easily raised from seed, and require little atten- tion. Begonia Lloydii mixed with well- grown plants of Lobelia tenuior also formed a very pleasing combination. Tomato Disease in Seed. — The current ssue of the Kew Bulletin contains an nteresting article on the hibernating of the mycelium of the black spot Tomato disease, Macrosporium Solani, in the seeds of infested fruits. It has been proved conclusively that the mycelium can, and does, actually exist in the tissue of the seeds, as well as in the form of a web on the outside of the ntegument. It is pointed out that seed should on no account be saved from diseased fruit, even if the black spots are not present. Pink Roses and Blue Alljanet. — A very charming floral combination that we have in our garden just now is provided by the beautiful glowing pink Rambler Rose Tausendschoi and the Dropmore variety of Anchusa italica. The Rose is scrambling over a trellis fence, whence its festoons of flowers are flung in many direc- tions, and the Anchusa is growing in the border immediately in front. Between the tall masses of blue one gets glimpses of the Rose, and the effect is very telling. It loses none of its charm by the fact that the grouping was quite accidental. :*^liS^:; ;*f NOBLE BORDER PLANT, EREMURUS ROBUSTUS, THE GARDENS AT FRIAR PARK. Roses on Their Own Roots. — It is a very debatable point as to whether Roses are better on their own roots or when budded on a wUd stock. The differences are sometimes interesting. At the present time we have under notice two flue plants of Alister Stella Gray. The plant worked on to the wild Briar flowers a clear fortnight before the other, which was raised from a cutting. "But the first Rose to flower is soon over after which it blooms no more until the following June ; while the Rose from the cutting continues to flower all through the summer and early autumn. This difference has been observed for a number of years. That the two trees are from the same variety there can be Tno doubt, for the Rose on its own roots was raised from a cutting of the tree on] the wild Briar stock. An Attractive Plant for the Rockery.— In Eriogonum mnbellatum we have an alpine of a distinct type, with pleasing and massive umbels of yellow flowers on a thick scape. The base of the plant also presents another pleasing feature ; there we see a circular arrangement of its spoon-shaped leaves, whose stalks are beautifully tinted with red on the upper side. The effect is that of a bright' red rosette, and the contrast is very beautiful with the yellow blooms and grey foliage. The bright colouring is only developed when the plants enjoy sunny weather. Viola cornuta purpurea.— This perfectly hardy floriferous little plant deserves to be more widely grown than would appear to be the case. Somewhat resembling single blue Violets, the freely produced flowers possess an advantage over many of the dwarf growers by reason of theu: long, slender stems, making them suitable decorative subjects when cut. They are useful as borderings for Rose or other beds, looking well in our own garden associated with bushes of Frau Karl Druschki. Viola cornuta purpurea thrives quite happily in practically any so0, and flowers continuously throughout the summer and autumn without special attention beyond the usual occasional removal of spent blooms. Cuttings root freely in frames in the autumn. Variation in the Lyon Rose. — It is well known that the blooms of this IN exquisite Rose show a great tendency to vary. Even Roses on the same bush are sometimes remarkable for their dis- similarity. At the same time there are unques- tionably inferior stocks of this variety in commerce. This was recently brought very forcibly to our notice in a garden where stocks of this variety, obtained from English and French growers, were seen flowering under similar circumstances. In each case the English-grown Roses showed a far greater depth of colour, while there was also a decided difference in the foliage of the plants. 314 THE GARDEN. [June 20, 1914. CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is twt responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents.) Early Loganberries.— On June 7 I picked off a Loganberry bush on a wall in my garden with a west aspect half-a-dozen fruits, quite ripe. This is abnormally early tor me, and I would be interested to know if it is unusually early in other gardens.— S. A. W. Waters, County Dublin. A Scottish Lady Gardener.— The Rev. David R. Wdliamson desires us to say, with reference to his article on " A Scottish Lady Gardener," in our issue for the 6th inst., that the rock gardens and Water Lily pond at Logan were both designed and laid out by Mr. McDouaU, who, as indicated in the article in question, is an earnest horti- culturist, and takes the deepest interest in his gardens and groimds. Three Good Climbers for May and June.— I am enclosing a small photograph of a temple the photograph demonstrates, moraine treatment suits it admirably. I am happy to say that, though usually I have to depend upon division for its propagation, the present annus mirabilis has caused it to set a plentiful crop of seeds. This Primula must not be confounded with the totally distinct true P. nivalis. — Raymond E. Negus, Walton-on-Thames. Narcissus triandrus calathinus.— Of all the Narcissus species, this is perhaps the most beauti- ful. Originally found by the late Mr. Peter Barr in the Isle of Glenan, off Brittany, it is now reported to be almost extinct there. It is, however, remarkably free-seeding under cultivation, and considerable stocks of it have now been worked up by careful cultivators, so much so that the price, which a few years back was as much as 3s. 6d. a bulb, has now come down to is. It has been much employed by hybridists as a pollen parent, and such lovely flowers as Alabaster, Madonna and Alys have resulted from its use. As a plant it is quite on the small side, and gives PRIMULA HIRSUTA NIVEA ON THE COOL SIDE OF A MORAINE. in these gardens, showing the Yellow Banksian Rose, Clematis montana and Polygonum bald- schuanicum. The Rose and Clematis have been a picture since early in May, and even at this date (June 10) are still smothered with flowers. I find the best time to prune them is immediately after they have flowered, — G, Burrows, Shendish Gardens, KinfCs Langley, Herts. [We regret that the photograph was not sharp enough (or repro- duction.— Ed,] A Beautiful Hardy Primula. — I enclose a photograph of Primula nivalis of gardens, which we are told is really P. hirsuta nivea, I trust that you will find space for its reproduction, since I think that this beautiful Primula scarcely receives the attention it deserves. In my opinion it is head and shoulders above any other rock garden Primula, and I enjoy its annual display of snowy blossoms upon the cool side of my moraine as much as any other floral spectacle of the year. It is not fastidious in its wants, provided it is not allowed to suffer from drought. But, as most pleasure when grown in pots and pans in a frame or cold house ; but its extreme value for breeding purposes will always make it indis- pensable to anyone interested in hybridising, even in a small way. The pollen of its hybrid offspring, by the way, is not nearly so effective. It is the true species itself that should always be used. — Ornatus. An Interesting Old Myrtle.— There is an interesting plant of the Myrtle, Myrtus communis, in the garden of F. S. Hay, Esq., at Duns Castle, Duns, Bermckshire, where it has been since 1803. It originated from a sprig worn by the well-known beauty of the day. Miss Lucy Johnston of Hutton Hall, at a ball in 1777 or 1778. As there was no glass at Duns Castle at that time, the cutting was struck in another garden, and the plant came to Duns Castle in the year men- tioned. It was planted out in a conversatory, and eventually assumed large dimensions, and was the cause of the house being named the Myrtle House. Within recent vears it became somewhat decrepit, having, been allowed to grow without pruning or attention in the way of feeding. When Mr. P. Smith, the present gardener, took charge, he suggested cutting it well back, and also lifting the pavement of the conservatory to allow the plant to be supplied with water and other nourishment. This has been done, and the Myrtle is again showing renewed vigour and looks as if it would be in capital condition shortly. — S. A. :■ Roses and Clematises. — In the issue for June 13, page 301, is a note upon the beauties of these flowers when suitably used in combination. I have had some remarkably pleasing results from these, and give a few short notes upon a good method of cultivation. The Roses most suited, or at any rate those not harmed by the Clematis, are found chiefly among the strong growers that only produce one good show of bloom early in each 'Glimmer, Quite a number^ of our beautiful and earliest flowering pillar and wall Roses are found among these. Carmine Pillar, with the Crimson and Blush Ramblers, H6I&ie, Goldfinch, Psyche, TausendschSn and some of the .A.yrshires may be mentioned as good examples. The selection of Clematises seems best if confined to those known as the Jackmannii section, which carry their main crop of flowers upon the long growths of the same season. They also flower from the end of these growths first, and then bloom backwards along the strands of wood. Being thus late in flowering, they follow with a beautiful display after the Roses, and so fill in what would otherwise have been a rather serious gap. There is a second decided advantage in the Jackmannii section, for we can cut away all dead growth when pruning the Roses early in the spring. These Clematises can be cut down to their base, and so allow of a clear start each season. — A. P. The Vitality of Seeds. — In your issue of May 2 Mr. Charles Comfort gives some interesting cases of the vitality of seeds. The following is within my own experience. Some years ago I prepared a piece of pasture land for planting trees. This land had been under grass for at least thirty-five years. Now it is well known that Charlock, or Ketlock as it is called in Lancashire, is never found growing in pasture land, yet the season after this land had been turned over it was quite yellow with Charlock, the seeds of which must have been lying dormant for over a third of a century. I remember, many years ago, an arable field on the Wiltshire Downs which was [mitabile dictu) practically free from Charlock, and was in consequence a source of some pride to its o%vner. The custom there was to plough only 2\ inches deep, owing to the close proximity of the under- lying chalk. A new ploughman set his plough 3 inches deep, and the next summer that field was a glorious sight to anyone except a farmer, being a mass of yellow from end to end. From this it would appear that Charlock will not genni- nate at a depth of 3 inches. Stranger still, when buUdings are cleared away in a town, the site often becomes clothed with wild plants. This is said to have been the case on the Aldwycb site in the Strand. Perhaps some reader can confirm this. — Walter de H. Birch, Walton-le- dale, Lancashire. [Our correspondent is quite correct about the Aldwych site, but we think that the seeds of most of the vegetation there came from manure or from the feed-bags of hnrsfs. — Ed.1 June 20, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 315 Primula Leddy Pilrig. — Though this is very like a derivative of Primula pulverulenta, there is no reason to doubt that its habit and general appearance are derived from P. bulleyana. Messrs. Stormonth of Carlisle possess a similar hybrid, but of a darker tint of salmon rose. The Primula family is full of surprises, so we need not wonder if the above is another. For the second time I secured a bit of P. cockbumiana last year, an offset from an old plant, and it is flowering now and quite healthy, shaded by a large stone, where I am hopeful it will be perennial to a degree. Previously it proved an annual. The new P. Juliee exhibits a habit that renders its increase very easy. The young growths throw out roots as they push their way along the surface of the ground, and nothing could be easier than offsetting these and establishing them as single plants. It seems also to produce seed abundantly. — B. Flowering Trees. — The wealth of blossom on trees, surpassing that which we usually see, has afforded a means of comparison of extreme im- portance. At the time of writing. Thorns are in the ascendant^ and palpably the best decorative forms are pure white and crimson, represented by Paul's Double Crimson. Double Pink, which is rather rose than pink, is also good, but light pink or blush, of which we find several tints here, are largely ineffective. Crataegus Aronia is blossoming and is the best at present, but less effective than the common Thorn. A note may also be made of the quiet beauty of Rosemary, which is flowering more profusely than usual, and un- pruned bushes of the commoner Roses are begin- ning to show what they will be very shortly. Colours seem to me to be much deepened ; Fellenberg, for instance, approaches crimson, and Rosa hemisphajrica has the petals curiously edged with lightest green. — R. P. Brotherston, Prestonkirk, N.B. School Shows. — I was interested in the letter on school shows that appeared on page 235, issue May 9. I was attending a show at Walliugford recently, held under the auspices of the Oxfordshire Agricultural Association, and among the tents was one allotted to the children of schools in Oxfordshire. Prizes were given by private donors and the Oxfordshire Education Committee, and I should say that this proved to be one of the most interesting tents of the whole show. Not the least interesting of the exhibits were the pen drawings of bulbs and the various plants grown by the aid of different manures. These included Lettuce, Cabbage, Peas, and Potatoes, each lot bearing a label giving details as to the amount and kind of manure used. I think that we as parents have no need to wonder (when looking round such a tent) why our children are anxious to go to school, rain or snow, hail or blow. School must have an attrac- tion for them such as it never had for us. Work of this kind must be of considerable educational value to the children and of real service to them in after years. — A. Cranstone, The Gardens, Brightwell Park, Wallington, Oxon. COMPETITION FOR PLAN- NING AND PLANTING THE LITTLE GARDEN. A FORTHCOMING EVENTS. June 24. — Richmond (Surrey) Flower Show. Croydon Horticultural Society's Flower Show. Brighton Horticultural Society's Outing to Viscountess Wolseley's garden at Glynde. June 25. — Isle of Wight Rose Society's Show at Ryde (provisional). Sherborne Floral Fete. June 27. — Windsor, Eton and District Rose and Horticultural Society's Show, promised, we publish below replies to the queries which we have received in connection with our competition for planning and planting the little garden. We would remind readers that there is still plenty of time for entering this competition, in which we are offering cash prizes to the total value of £33 12s., as well as a number of book prizes, for the best designs. Competitors may send in designs for one, two, three or four sites, as there are separate prizes for each. Any competitor may send in more than one design for any of the plans. The coupon will be found on page iv. Fences. — It is to be assumed that each plot is enclosed by a cleft oak fence 5 feet high. Com- petitors may mask this with plants in .any way they think fit. Locality. — Competitors should assume that all the designs could be carried out in gardens in the London district or the Midlands. Tennis Courts in plans Nos. 3 and 4.— It is ideal that a lawn tennis court should be 120 feet by 60 feet, and should face north and south rather than east or west ; but when a site is of limited size and the position cannot be altered, designers have to do the best they can in the existing con- ditions. The sites were purposely chosen to present difficulties which frequently occur. The com- petition is intended to be practical, not ideal. A court 40 feet by 140 feet is often as large as can be provided in a small garden. Perspective Drawings. — It is not necessary to send a perspective drawing of each, or of any, plan ; this is left to the competitor's discretion. Elevations of garden-houses, or of other architec- tural features, may be drawn on the third plain sheet if desired, instead of, or in addition to, a perspective view. A model may be sent in place of the perspective drawing if the competitor so desires. Cost of Plants and Labour. — It is not practic- able to fix a schedule of prices for different locali- ties. In fixing the sums to be spent, the cost of labour is not taken into account ; but elaborate schemes involving an amount of work which the owners of such gardens could not reasonably afford will be disqualified. A tool shed may or may not be included. Prices for paving or for plants should not be mentioned. Details as to how the allowed sums are allocated need not be given. Position of Sites. — No. 4 site can be assumed to be in the country or an outlying suburb. Type of Houses. — It is assumed that the dwelling-houses are of the ordinary gable type. The walls of the house may be covered with climbers at the competitor's discretion. Effects Desired. — The judges will base their awards on the effect which may be expected within a reasonable time of planting. Each garden should be planted so as to give a good effect for as long a period of the year as possible. Planting Plans. — These must give the details of beds or borders shown in outline on the plans. If all four designs are attempted, four planting plans of beds and four of borders must be submitted. Entrance Drive or Path.— This is not already designed, and should be shown on plan. Garden Seats, Trellis, Pergolas, &c.— These may either be purchased or made at home, but cost must be considered. Any competitor who has sent an enquiry not answered here in detail will please assume that the point raised is left to his or her discretion. No further enquiries can be answered. Competitors are at liberty to pin to their designs a descriptive memorandum not occupying more than one side of a foolscap sheet. The last day for sending in designs is Septem- ber r, 1914. Any time up to August 20 the sheets of site plans on which th» designs are to be drawn can be had on sending 4d. in stamps to the Editor. SOLANUVl GRISPUM. This beautiful and free-growing Chilian plant, commonly known as the Potato Tree, is con- sidered by many to be only half-hardy, and this wrong impression undoubtedly deters many persons from planting it outside. It is a robust and free-growing shrub from r2 feet to 16 feet high, with conspicuous bluish purple, fragrant flowers durmg May and June. It is not particular as to soil, and will be found an excellent subject for quickly covering a blank wall. After flowering is over, all weak wood should be removed to encourage new strong growths, which often attain a height of 8 feet to 10 feet in a summer, and it is upon these the flowers are borne the following year. In Cornwall it forms large bushes in the open, but in most parts of the country it needs the protection of a wall, where it will prove a very worthy subject. g. NOTES ON CARNATIONS. T HE earlier border Carnations in pots, e.g.. Lady Hermione and Leander, are at the time of writing producing flowers, and there will be an un- interrupted supply till those in borders and beds come in. Though there is plenty of bloom on Perpetuals, there is yet room for a selection of border varieties, and there are always the lovely bizarres, flakes and fancies in Carnations and the delicately refined Picotees of both sections, yellow grounds and white grounds, which I am hopeful will not always suffer the neglect they do at present. Whoever has given them the ordinary attention they ask for, which implies all along cool treatment, cleanli- ness and ventilation to the fullest extent, according to weather, agree that there is no difficulty in their cultivation. The more recent varieties are, moreover, con- stitutionally very much more robust, and produce considerably more roots than the older ones they have superseded, and it is, consequently, easier to keep a healthy stock than at one time was possible for the ordinary cultivator. I strongly recommend gardeners to add a selection to their summer-flowering pot plants. There is no reason to hurry the propagation of Mahnaisons. One of the most successful growers I know — the most successful, indeed — does not begin to layer his plants tUl the end of July or the beginning of August. The layers root at that time very rapidly, and the cooler tughts seem to affect the whole system of the young plants in a manner that induces a rapid growth, which ensures complete establishment 316 THE GARDEN. [June 20, 1914. before winter sets in. It is usually desirable to select the healthiest plants for propagation, and if, as sometimes happens, disease has laid hold of all, then the layers should be made from the extreme tips, just long enough to secure a firm bit of shoot for rooting. These make far better growth than longer pieces with diseased leaves, and with careful treatment through the autumn and winter provide by no means unsatisfactory flowering plants. Before these notes appear, the bulk of the Perpetuals wiU have been placed into their flowering receptacles and the important item of staking be engaging attention. Very strong, well-branched THE NEWER CHINESE RHODODENDRONS. (Continued from page 304.) R. Fargesii, collected by Mr. E. H. Wilson during his first journey for Messrs. Veitch, has dainty rose pink, tubular flowers. As these open rather early in April, this is one of the species which Rhododendron enthusiasts in the South and West should cultivate, as it promises to be a good thing. R. flavidum (primulinum). — Flowering when only a few inches high, this alpine species is valuable RHODODENDRON SIDEROPHYLLU.M. THIS IS A NliW CHINESE SPECIES WITH PALE BLUSH FLOWERS. plants require more than ijue stick — some three, and very large ones with numerous shoots as many as five. By no means should the tying of the shoots at any time be neglected. Straight growths are an essential of success, and, apart from that, very vigorous shoots, if unsupported, are apt to snap off. The final stopping of the plants requires much consideration, and must be determined by local circumstances as well as by the habit of particular varieties. Seasons also have a very decided effect. The heat of last summer threw one considerably out in calculatmg just when to cease stopping. Some of the newer varieties may be stopped later than others. Triumph and Empire Day are examples of those that come on very rapidly, while Carola and Baroness de Brienen are very slow, and cannot be stopped later than June. Lady Northclifie has also been very slow in the autumn. Some are really late winter or spring flowerers, such as Alma Ward and R. F. Felton, which are really wonder- fully beautiful then. The Hon. Gladys Fellowes, which Mary AUwood supersedes, is a very con- sistent producer. Continue limited applications of stimulating manures to all Carnations planted out, and keep aphis away by means of dustings of Tobacco powder. Preslonkirk, N.B, R. P. Brotherston. for sheltered nooks in the rock garden, apparently not exceeding li feet to 2 feet in height. The yellow flowers, about an inch in diameter, are terminal, three to five in a cluster, opening during April. R. intricatum. — This pretty alpine species which flowers early in April, was the subject of a coloured plate in The Garden for June 6. R. lutescens. — This is a rather tender April flowering species with yeUow flowers. It is readily separated from R. ambiguum, the flowers being terminal and axillary, towards the ends of the shoots singly or in pairs. This plant reached us first from France, and later Mr. Wilson sent home seeds. R. polylepis (harrovianum). — Of this species a very considerable number of plants are already in commerce. It forms a nice bushy plant, but requires a sheltered spot, the leaves suffering from cold winds in exposed positions. The flowers are purple, r^ inches to 2 inches across, opening during April. R. racemosum. — It will not be necessary to do much more here than mention this species, which is one of the most distinct and valuable Chinese Rhododendrons for the rockery, beds and borders. It was one of the first species introduced by the French in rSSg. The white-tinted flowers are freely bonic on the growths, often clothing half the length of the shoots, which reach 3 feet ill height. This species seeds freely. R. siderophylluin. — Flowering towards the end of April, this may be described as a " good- natured " plant, being free in growth and profuse in flowering. We have plants, 4 feet in height, a mass of pale blush-tinted blossoms with dark brown spots, individually half an inch across. R. Souliei. — The glaucous green foliage and red-stalked leaves of this species give the plants a very distinct appearance. The rosy pink flowers are also markedly distinct, being 3 inches across and almost flat. A May-flowering Rhododendron. R. sutchuenense. — This species forms a good- looking evergreen bush, with stout, leathery leaves up to 9 inches long. The rose-tinted flowers are bell-shaped and about three inches across. Our one regret in the London district is that the flowers open in March. It is worth trying hi pots for greenhouse decoration. R. yanthinum. — There are several purple- flowered species, and this at present is the most pleasing, being a rich glowing vinous purple. It flowers the second half of -4.pril, the individual blooms being ri inches to 2 inches across. There seems to be no botanical difference between this species and R. benthamianum, though the flowers of the latter lack the rich colouring which is such a feature of R. yanthinum. R. yunnanense. — Introduced to France by Abbe David in 1889, this must be accounted as one of the most useful garden plants. At their best about the middle of May, the plants blossom so freely as to almost hide the leaves. There is considerable variation in the white, blush- tinted flowers, which are spotted with reddish browTi. ^_ o. SOME OF THE NEWER RAMBLER ROSES. THERE are some delightful novelties among Rambler Roses that all who can find space for ' them should plant. One of the best is Marie Henriette Grafiji Chotek. This is how its raiser, Herr Lambert, styles it, so I suppose it is correct, although in some lists I find the word " Grafin " placed first. This beautiful Rose is now (June 2) opening with me, and its flowers are like miniature Richmonds. It is a remarkable cross — The Farquhar x Rich- mond— for it possesses none of the Wichuraiana habit, but rather that of the Multifloras. This Rose blooms in clusters of three and singly, and although there is not the intense effect there would be from a pillar of Excelsa, yet the flowers are so useful for cutting that no one can aft'ord to overlook it. White Tausendsohon will be wanted in every garden of fair size, for it is a most delightful kind and extremely showy. The colour is not exactly white, there being a faint suspicion of blush pink, while at times one can have two colours upon one plant. Both this and the ordinary Tausendschon would be more effective if the growths on each plant were reduced to two or three ; then, by judicious feeding, we may have glorious big trusses and blooms. To plant at the base of White TausendschSn I can strongly recom- mend a lovely new dwarf kind named Echo. It is one of Lambert's, and is a great improvement on Louise Walter, the so-called Baby Tausend- schSn. I should like to see more of this effective planting of ramblers and the Dwarf Polyanthas, O O *-» CO o x: o 03 c c T3 o O .a < June 20, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 31? as one may now have almost any colour, either to harmonise or to contrast. Christine Wrigllt is a fine hybrid with very large blooms of a Dog Rose colour. Kalmia is a grand new single. The foliage is a dark glossy green, and the flowers are white, with the upper half of the petals tinged with pink, producing a beautiful eficct. Braiswicl( Charm is the nearest approach to the Perpetual Wichuraiana. In some respects it resembles Alberic Barbier, but is quite distinct. The blooms are borne in light, artistic clusters, which renders it most valuable, and until we obtain a real golden Dorothy Perkins it will fill the gap, for the open flowers have quite a rich yellow colouring in the centre. Lisbeth von Kameke is a seedling of the Blue Rimbler, Veilchenblau, and is a very distinct shade of pale violet. This and Sweet Lavender, another of the bluish-tinted Roses, will lend a most beautiful c fleet among ramblers if tastefully grouped among the whites or creams. merit of being pure white. There are others under observation, and further notes on these will follow. Other promising novelties are the Climbing Orleans Rose Donau, an improvement upon Veilchenblau ; and Geisha Griiss an Freuendorf. Perhaps this will prove to be the best dark red Wichuraiana. Danecroft. COLOURED PLATE. PLATE 1196. A BEAUTIFUL ROSE GARDEN. T has become the custom in gardens of goodly dimensions to devote a portion entirely to Roses, or to Roses and plants that associate well with them. This plan is an ideal one, for the visitor is then able to compare the different varieties and to note the effect that each is capable of pro I Ethel is a lovely and most dainty rambler, I ducing. Again, many — ^indeed, most — Roses give producing graceful sprays of semi-double flesh pink ] much better eflects when grouped in good-sized flowers, and one specially useful for cutting purposes. Mrs. M. H. Walsh and Lady Blanche are two fine new white ram- blers, and will doubtless supersede White Dorothy, which is really not pure white. I also think the Rev. J. H. Pemberton's new white will be an acquisition to the Multifloras, for we have no good white in that section save Thalia, and this is much better. Dorothy Jeavons, a white sport of Blush Rambler, is rather a poor thing. Of course, we have Waltham Bride, a lovely early bloomer and deliciously fragrant ; but this seems to me to be a different type to the Multifloras, more like a Hybrid Noisette, excepting that it blooms but once. Sodenia will become a great favour- ite. It comes midway in colour be- tween Minnehaha and E.xcelsa, and yields enormous trusses in great profusion. Jean Guichard is fine, one of the type represented by Leontine Gerbaud and Desire Bergera. Tt is a fine addition, and is now some seven years old, but not much known. Miss Helyett belongs to the large- floweied section of the Wichuraianas. The flowers are as large as an ordinary- sized Tea Rose, and as it is early flowering — opening now, in fact (June 2) — it will be a valuable addi- tion. The foliage is delightfully glossy, and the flowers are rosy pink, with salmon pink centre. Coronation is a lovely colour, bright scarlet, splashed with small white streaks, an effective rambler. Source d'Or is golden yellow, passing to paler yellow. The trusses are not large, but it is a fine addition to the Wichuraiana group. Perle von Wienerwald is a grand sort for its lasting qualities when cut. The huge trusses carry blooms fully ij inches across, and are of a lovely carmine pink inside and Carnation pink outside. Sanders' White is one of the best additions to the double white Wichuraianas, and it has the of Mrs. Lockett Agnew, who takes a very keen interest in practically all branches of horticulture. Although it has been impossible to reproduce the colours as true as we would wish, the plate serves to show what a charming effect can be obtained by grouping other plants of suitable character in the Rose garden. Here we find the Madonna Lily making a delightful foil to the more vivid Roses, while in the foreground sufficient of a bed of Nepeta Mussinii is shown to give an idea of what effect the association of red, white and lavender blue is capable of creating. The pergola runs the whole length of the Rose garden, the brick pillars that support the Oak framework above being creased at about every fourth layer with old tiles. Near the pergola, but not shown in the coloured plate, is a paved pathway bordered with Lavender, out of which rise stout Fir poles at intervals of 8 feet or 10 feet, and each to a height of about five feet. These support a stout rope, along which climbing Roses, mostly of pink shades, are festooned. Clematises are largely used in this garden in association with Rambler Roses, pale lavender It is A FINE BUSH OF THE NEW CHINESE RHODODENDRON YUNNANENSE. rouped with Rjses mass-'s of one sort than when grown as isolated varieties. Added to this we are able, with the aid of the simple Larch pole, or more preten- tious pillar or pergola, to grow the many beautiful rambler varieties in association with those of dwarf form, and so realise the wonderful diver- sion, not only of colour, but of habit and time of flowering, that exists among members of the Rose family. The coloured plate presented with this issue depicts a scene in the Rose garden at Hallingbury Place, Bishop's Stortford, the charming residence blue varieties generaUy being of pink tints. A CHARMING YELLOW ROSE. What a beautiful Rose Marquise de Sinety is ! This year it has commenced to flower very early with us, earlier, indeed, than most of the other Hybrid Teas, and owiug to the cool weather the blooms have come a real.y wonderful colour, best described, perhaps, as burnished orange yellow. Its dark maroon red foliage is so leathery as to successfully withstand mildew when niany others fa'l a prey. 318 THE GARDEN. [June 20, 1914. WORK AMONG THE OUT- DOOR FLOWERS. WHEN, the other day, pacing alongside the flower borders with an old friend and well- known gardener, he remarked that there was an immense amoimt of staking looming in the near future. " Not so," I replied, and pushing up the string that encompassed the stems of one plant, 1 showed him how very simply and yet how efficiently a strand of string wound loosely round a plant was sufficient to preserve it in the upright position without the aid of a stake. The staking of herbaceous plants is to a very large extent a delusion, and beyond a few that cannot be managed without the support of one or more stakes, the great majority perform their delightful functions all the more satisfactorily unstaked. Those that would give way under the stress of a About Dahlias. — Just at present our Dahlias are receiving the one necessary attention they need to keep them right for the whole season. This is effected not by means of stakes, but with stout, hooked pegs, or more usually with pieces of Snowberry bent like a hairpin, with which a selected number of shoots are pegged to the ground. As a rule, this is a far more effective manner of treating Dahlias for decorative purposes than the use of any number of stakes and ties. You will remember how that all-round florist Mr. William Cuthbertson mentioned at a Dahlia Conference that the finest display of Dahlias he had ever seen was what he termed a hedge of them in the gardens here. These were produced without a single stake — merely by once pegging down. Pruning Hardy Flowers. — One should never be afraid to use the knife when obviously needed, which happens very often throughout the summer and autumn. Repeated prunings keep such a vigorous plant as Anchusa italica in due bounds. THE ROCK GARDEN JUNE. IN T A JUNE SCENE IN A BEAUTIFUL ROCK GARDEN. moderate gale need no more than a strand of stout string, while a larger number than one would think are best left to themselves. All the border Lihes, such as Martagons, tigrinums, excelsum, croceum, candidum, pardalinum and chalce- donicum, need no support. Many composites growing in old masses ask for support, which, when grown in single-stemmed pieces, planted annually, are vastly better left to themselves. None of the large family of decorative Aconitums, nor the Senecios, nor Astilbe, nor Bocconia need be staked. Some may not grow quite upright, but that is not in the way of a fault. How horrid it is to see such a distinctly beautiful plant from base to summit as a Japanese Anemone subjected to the indignity of stick and tie, even if the support be green-painted, varnished and finished in gold ! It is worth notice, too, that seedlings of certain plants, such, for instcince, as Delphiniums and Lupin us polyphyllus in variety, that must be staked when old, need no support. and at the same time promote the produc- tion of more flowers over a longer period. Lupinus polyphyllus and its hybrids also produce spikes in long succession if the precaution of removing the older spikes before they are flowered out be taken. It is too long to leave them till the seed-pods are being filled and all the flowers on a spike are withered. To be successful with many of our border flowers, one must be a little bit removed from timidity. Thin where necessary, prune with an eye to the future as well as the present, and never delay easing a plant that is worthy of it of flowers, either in spikes or other- wise, even though their removal may for a few days slightly lower their decorative value. Such a free-seeding plant as the bedding Viola should frequently be picked over, removing every old bloom, whether withered or approaching that condition. This will ensure a long extended period of flowering. Preslcnkirk, N.B. R. P. BRornERsroN. HERE are two of Loudon's gardening rules that seem most applicable to the rock garden at this season, viz., (i) " Never pass a weed without pulling it, unless time forbids " ; and (2) " Let no plant ripen seeds, unless they are wanted for some purpose, useful or ornamental, and remove all parts that are in a state of decay." Both are common-sense rules, but a point that is sometimes overlooked is that certain rock plants are very attractive when fruiting. Take, for instance, the Pasque-flower (Anemone Pulsatilla), which at the present time is very attractive by virtue of its heads of downy seeds, and the same may be said of the light, feathery heads borne by Geum trifolium. While many rock plants are now passing out of bloom, there are, happily, I scores of others to take their place. The rock garden shmild be in the height of its beauty in June. The large family of Mountain Pinks are now at their very best. Dianthus plumarius is one of the best and most showy of them all, while others worthy of special note are D. caesius (with bright pink flowers about four inches high), D. deltoides (of a deeper hue), D. neglectus, D. alpinus (with large, expanded flowers borne close to the ground) and D. Tenorei (with white flowers on slender stems). Some of the alpine Pinks are difficult or even impossible to identify, for they are so freely crossed by bets, and self-sown seedlings are common. The mention of bees serves to remind one that certain flowers are much more favoured by their visits than others. The bees are never tired of visiting the small pink flowers of Thymus cidoratissimus, and so long as this remains in flower the bees are always in attendance. Saponaria ocymoides. a plant he- lunging to the same Natural Order as Dianthus, is now flowering in pro- lusion. It is a pretty trailing species, with small leaves and bright pink flowers, and is seen to best advantage when allowed to overhang the rocks. In shady places Ramondia pyrenaica and Arenaria balearica look charming when grown together, the former, with purple^ flowers, standing out from vertical rocks ; and the latter, with its white, starry flowers, creeping close to the surface of the rocks over which it grows. Veronica Teucrium dubia and V. orientalis make low carpets of deep blue, while the yellow A' hillea tonientosa forms a suitable companion to the white-flowering species A. Obristii and A. Huteri. Antirrhinum glutinosum and Helichrysum bellidioides are excellent June-flowering subjects. Both creep among the rocks, and when overhanging a bo\ilder are never so happy. Sun Roses, Rock R' ses and Saxifrages each contribute to the floral beauty of the rock garden in June ; and while space does not permit the mention of others, reference must at least be made to Saxifraga pyramidalis, with erect sprays of bloom 1 foot to 4 feet long. It is appropriately known as the Queen of the Saxifrages. June 20, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 319 THE COLLARETTE DAHLIAS. k IT is time to plant out Dahlias, and to those who have wearied of the stiff and heavy show varieties, the new Collarette type specially appeals. This is a distinctive type of single Dahlia, having an inner circle of small florets issuing from the base of the yellow central disc, and edged on the outside with petals of every shade of colour and form. It is altogether an advance on anything hitherto seen. The flowers are borne on long stalks well above the foliage, and are most useful for decorative purposes, lasting, when cut, a full week in water in a cool room, while their long stalks add to their usefulness and charm. Freedom of Flowering. — From all those who have grown these Collarette Dahlias one hears nothing but praise. It seems exaggeration to speak of them as " perpetual flowering," yet such was the fact last autumn. For two months they were a constant source of floral wealth, and the beds were radiant with flowers when all else save Michaelmas Daisies had lived their span. Until cut down by frost they can be relied upon to yield a profusion of blossom; hence their value either in separate beds or in clumps in the herbaceous border. Culture. — The culture needed does not differ from that required by all Dahlias, which revel in a rather heavy, clayey loam, thoroughly well worked. Whether the soil be heavy or light, deep cultivation is necessary, and thus ensures proper drainage. A liberal supply of well-decayed manure should also be worked into the soil, and if this has been done in the autumn, so much the better. However, if the Dahlias are to be planted in the bor- der, this may not have been possible. Take, therefore, the site chosen, dig a fairly large hole, and well mix the manure with the bottom soil before planting. Dahlias rarely get over- manured. Situation and Planting. — Being bushy in form, moderate in height and requiring only the support afforded by ordinary thin canes, the Collarette Dahlia is suited for any position, flowering profusely between shrubs or disporting itself in lonely grandeur in circular beds on lawns, while it is most useful in the herbaceous borders, forming a blaze of colour in late autumn when flowers are scarce. It is advisable to buy plants (knocked out of pots) direct from one or other of the firms that have specialised in this new type. Most, or all, of the firms who specialise in Dahlias now list them, so that there should be no diffi- culty in obtaining plants. Turn the plant out of the pot, taking care to preserve the ball of soil intact, place it in the prepared hole, and i tie it to the cane (already in position) with a I piece of raffia. The after-attention required is | very little. Add more canes as needed, and tie in the growths. Slugs and insects — -the usual pests — must be expected and destroyed at the onset, and then the grower may feel confident of a harvest of flowers until cruel King Frost casts his withering hand around. Varieties. — The following half-dozen have been proved of sterling worth and can be recommended, but others can be selected from the raisers' catalogues to suit individual taste. None of them is very expensive to purchase. Balmoral. — A puce colour with a white collarette. A good grower and very free flowering. I AN EFFECTIVE GROUPING OF SAPONARIA OCYMOIDES, A BEAUTIFUL PLANT FOR THE ROCK GARDEN. Queen Bess. — A scarlet with yellow collarette. Frogmore. — The finest I know. Yellow and vermilion, with a yellow collarette. This leaves nothing to be desired in form and colour, while it is very vigorous and a perpetual bloomer. Princess Louise. — A rich crimson flower with broad petals and white collarette. Negro. — A maroon with white collarette. Is of lovely form and colour ; very free and effective. Probably the best word to describe Henri Farman, a bright vermilion edged with primrose, with straw collarette, is " grand " — the word used by everyone on beholding a newly opened flower of this variety. S. M. C. SEASONABLE NOTES ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS. THE FINAL POTTING OF THE PLANTS. BEFORE June ends, the whole of the plants must be placed in their flowering pots, not only those intended for flowering in October and November for exhibition purposes and the furnishing of the conservatory, but also those that are to yield flowers in December and at Christmas. There are several points in connection with the treatment of late-flowering varieties that amateur cultivators ought to care- fully note. One is the advisa- bility of getting the plants well established in their large pots in good time, as we should remember that feeding at will can be done later on. Another important point is the stopping of the shoots also in due time. It is a great mistake to stop the shoots late, as very frequently the resultant blooms are entirely lacking in substance. Often I have seen them with two or three rows of petals on one side of the opening buds only. The Final Potting is regarded by some cultivators as the prin- cipal one, and also the chief thing that can be done in regard to the treatment of the plants. That it is important I admit, but really not more so than the previous repottings, as, unless the work in connection with them is equally well carried out, poor plants would result now, and no amount of care in doing the final potting would convert them into splendid specimens. In carrying out the work, care should be taken to ensure sound drainage, clean crocks and pots both inside and outside, a well-mi.xed compost and pots of suitable size. Weakly growing varieties should be potted in g-inch pots, and stronger growers in loi-inch ones. If larger pots are used, place two plants in each, and take on two main stems on each plant if they are being grown for the produc- tion of exhibition blooms — four blooms to a pot instead of the orthodox three. By following this plan the general health of the whole collection will be maintained at a high standard. The Soil. — Fibrous loam must form the bulk of the compost. If the loam is rather heavy, use more leaf-soil and sand in it than if it is of a light nature. A pint of bone-meal to a bushel of the compost, a 6-inch potful of soot and a similar quantity of wood-ashes to the bushel, with a good concentrated chemical manure, according to the directions given with it, should complete the compost for the final potting. Do not ram the soil very firmly ; there is the medium course, and this is best, taking the potting of the whole collection of incurved, Japanese and single-flowered sections respectively. The wood may be too 320 THE GARDEN. [June 20, 1914. hard. There is only a given time for the growth of the plants, and if the stopping or the natural breaks are right, the growths made afterwards will mature sufficiently. Put in some of the coarser parts on the crocks, and use the remainder in due proportion to the small. Leave space at the top for top-dressings, watering and feeding. A 2-inch space will be sufficient, and nearly the whole of this will be filled by light top mulches applied every ten days after the end of July, or the third week or so in that month. After potting, space out the plants in rows north and south if convenient, and place the stakes to them. If the weather proves bright and dry, syringe the plants twice every day, and be careful not to overwater the soil ; then new roots will permeate it very soon. Avon. planted out on a heap of litter and leaves, with a surfacing of old potting soil, encouraging the growth by the aid of hand-lights, or even pieces of glass laid over bricks. Sow seeds where the plants are to fruit for a succes- sion. Mulch the surface to encourage freedom of growth. Radishes require much attention to maintain a regular succession of succulent roots. Small weekly sowings are better than sowing at longer intervals. Nothing is finer than the French Breakfast type for flavour or quick growth. During dry weather well soak the soil before sowing the seed. After- wards apply a light shading until the plants are SEASONABLE NOTES ON VEGETABLES. Celery. — Plant firmly in well- prepared trenches, lifting the plants carefully with a good ball of soil attached to the roots of each. Failing showers, keep them well watered in the trenches, and dust the plants occasionally with soot as a preventive of the Celerv fly- Asparagus. — Continue to cut evenly over the beds until the end of this month. Thoroughly soak the beds occasionally with liquid manure, which not only improves the present " grass," but assists the plants for next season's crop. If in an exposed position, secure the strongest plants by pieces of string on each side of the bed to prevent them being broken by wind. A few short Pea stakes thrust in among the plants will pro\-ide useful supports. Cucumbers in Frames will now need careful attention, especially if they have been fruiting some time, and will require stimulating for future crops. Prune rather severely any growth that has borne freely. This cutting away of old haulm and leaves will provide more light and encourage new growth, especially if the plants receive a good soaking of liquid manure and a mulching, 2 inches thick, of partly decayed manure, leaf-mould or fresh loam, adding a handful of soot. This will encourage the growth of surface roots. Keep the frame somewhat closer for a time, closing it early in the afternoon with plenty of sun-heat, first sprinkling the foliage with tepid water. Pinch out the point of each new shoot above the second leaf, and if fruits show freely, thin these for the benefit of the plants in the future, as too many plants are ruined by overcropping. Ridge Cucumbers must have attention. Those previously raised in pots should be of growth, which will be found an advantage next year. Peas. — Continue to sow late sorts like The Glad- stone, Goldfinder, Late Queen and Ne Plus Ultra in previously watered drills. Well soak and mulch all plants growing in rows. Where extra fine pods are required, thin judiciously, and top the haulm when a sufficient crop is assured. Stake early to encourage upright and robust growth, and do not forget that the more moisture that can be given to the roots, especially liquid manure, the better will be the result. Runner Beans now growing freely should have attention. Train the haulm thinly up the stakes, removing surplus lateral growth. Water well, syringe in the evening, and mulch between the rows. Lettuce should be often sown. On the Celery ridges is an eco- nomical method. Water the drill before sowing. Directly the plants are large enough to handle, thin out and transplant, thus having an equivalent to two sowings. Moisture at the root and over- head in abundance is the only secret in obtaining succulent Lettuce. Onions need attention in their various stages. The Rocca and Leviathan types should not be overfed yet, lest too many plants run to seed. Keep a sharp look-out on all batches for mildew. Dust with wood-ashes and soot as a preventive. Th? outdoor-sown batch will require thinning where large bulbs are required ; but for ordinary use and for pickling no thinning is required, especially if thick sow- ing has been avoided. Keep the hoe busily employed between the rows. E. MoLVN'Eux. Suhinniorf, Hants. THE RARE AND BEAUTIFUL IRIS L.^VIGATA ALBA. A WHITE FLOWERED lORM OF A LITTLE KNOWN SPECIES. above the surface. Sprinkle them in the evemng for preference. Turnips are a difficult crop to manage during a spell of drought. Choose a shady place ; a north border, for example. Water the soil before sowing, and, as soon as the plants appear above the soil, dust them over with soot and wood-ashes. Thin out the plants early. Rhubarb should receive encouragement for its welfare next year by the prompt removal of seed-stems and be given a thick mulching of partly decayed manure, the juices of which will benefit I lie roots and encourage freedom IRIS Lv^VIGATA ALBA. It was recently our good fortune In see, for the first time, this rare and beautiful Iris flower- ing in the vast collection of Irises in Messrs. R. Wallace aid Co 's nursery at Colches- ter. The flowers are clear ivory white, with a faint shading of mauve at the throat. Growing about two feet or less in height, it is a variety that at once arrests attention by virtue of the purity and refinement of It was not surprising that it should have been granted an award of merit by the Royal Horticultural Society at a recent meeting. It should be pointed out that it is quite distinct from the laevigata alba of gardens, which is really a variety of sibirica orientalis. Neither must IjEvigata (true) be confused with the species Kffimpferi, from which in foliage and form of flower it is quite distinct. Unfortunately much confusion still exists between Iris laevigata and 1. Kaempferi. That they are distinct in flower and foliage may be seen from the illustration of ..e white-flowered form of the typical I. laevigata. the flowers. June 20, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 321 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. HOW TO GROW CELERY AND LEEKS. » S both of these popular vegetables thrive /% best in a deep, friable loam, the / % cultivators who possess such have a A~^% great advantage over others who have * * to deal with a stiff, adhesive loam which can only be satisfactorily worked a few hours after a shower of rain, and which pans down very hard if worked while in a very moist condition. Cultivators will now turn their attention to the planting of Celery and Leeks, and look for their reward next autumn and winter. Trenches may have already been made and manured ready for the plants. If the soil in the bottom of the trench is found to be set hard, dig it and break up any lumps before putting out any plants. I liave found it a capital plan to gather up some old potting soil, road DIAGRAMS TO REPRESENT GOOD AMD BAD PLANTS OF CELERY AND LEEKS AT PLANTING-TIME. scrapings from roads not frequented by motor- cars, sifted leaf-soil and material from the surface of old hot-beds, and, having scattered the mixture in the trench, dig it in and so provide a suitable rooting medium for the young plants. About Trenches. — I am quite sure that culti- vators make their trenches too deep. The best soil — that about sixteen inches from the top — is taken out and placed so as to form ridges between the trenches. Manure is then put in, and the plants in it and the cold subsoil. The good soil taken out is used mainly for earthing-up — blanching purposes. Some cultivators do return a portion of the good soil before the plants are put out. The cultivator shotild be guided a good deal by the depth of rich soil he possesses as to the matter of trench-making ; but even in the case of very good, deep soil, the trench should not be deeper than r8 inches before manure is put in. In poor, shallow soils 9 inches is deep enough. Tile top soil removed should be placed on one side, and the spit below it on the other side. Then return the good soil and the manure, and thoroughly mix both before putting in the plants. The Plants and Planting.— Dwarf, sturdy plants possessing plenty of roots, such as shown at No. I, Fig. A, are the best if from 5 inches to 9 inches in height. Very tall, weakly specimens with few roots, resembling No. 2, are not good ones. They receive a severe check when dis- turbed, and do not recover for a long time after planting in the trenches ; in fact, nearly ail the tallest leaf-stalks perish. No, 3 denotes a fine transplanted Leek, and No. 4 a poor one as drawn from the seed-bed. Single rows of both Celery and Leeks should be planted as denoted by the crosses, No. I in Fig, B, and double rows of the former in zigzag fashion 10 inches apart, as shown by the small circles. No, 2, No. 3 also shows them in the trench with neat ridges, Nos, 4, 4, on which temporary crops, such as Lettuces or Dwarf Beans, may be grown, A sectional view of the Leeks and trench is shown in Fig, C, These plants are gross feeders, and so plenty of rotted manure should be mixed with the soil quite a foot deep for the roots to make a good start in, as shown at No, I, No, 2 being undisturbed soil. In every case water thoroughly, and maintain the soil in a moist condition. It is also beneficial to the plants if a surface mulch of loam, leaf-soil and manure is put on an inch deep at the time of planting. G. G. A VIOLA FOR THE ROCK GARDEN. One of the most brilliant of our new rock garden Violas is the variety we call Solitude. It is of the gracilis grandeur class, and has a very dwarf, neat habit, with small, pointed leaves, and carries its hordes of blossoms well erect upon sturdy foot- stalks. It is long in blossom, having been in ijower throughout March, April and May, and is still as full as ever without any attention, and promises to go on for a considerable time. It will be noted that, belonging to the improved grandeur type, the new-comer will prove of the utmost value for rock garden work, also for bedding, as few Violas flower like this section, and none retains so well as these that splendid dwarf habit which is such a tremendous asset in their favour. But, after all, it is the colour of Solitude that tells — a deep mountain blue, rich and unsullied, that carries one in thought at once to the clear skies and the distant blue of the high hills. The appealing intensity of Solitude is very real, and if we can get it on the slopes it will attract more than gracilis or grandeur, or, indeed, to my mind, more than any other blue Viola, Its name Solitude was bom of the mountain blue of its colouring, unusual in its serene beauty, P. S. Hayward, ■..■,.l■lMlln^/;l)^'^^m^llll'l'^.|^i^, SHIRLEY POPPIES AS CUT FLOWERS, When inspecting the various exhibits at flower shows, one has frequently been both sorry and surprised at the comparatively small number of competitors in classes for the beautiful Shirley Poppies — of such easy cultivation, and for whose o / 02 o o '>n;'liiii;ii;i,';iiii|\'iihii'i||i(;;Hn';'rH;iM 4»Jr im ^pm the .methods of PLANTING SINGLE AND DOUBLE ROWS IN A TRENCH ARE SHOWN HERE, introduction we all owe a debt of gratitude to the Rev, W. Wilks, the able hon, secretary of the Royal Horticultural Society — ^the obvious deduction being that this pretty annual is not so much grown, or if grown, cut and used, as it deserves to be. The reason lies probably in the fact that the cut blooms do not, in the ordinary way, last well in water, owing to the "bleeding" process which ensues ; hence their apparent comparative un- popularity. This disadvantage can, however, fortunately be remedied with a minimum of trouble if, immediately after cutting, the stalks be immersed in half an inch of boiling water for two minutes, then placed ordinarily in cold water. It is best, of course, to cut the blooms before they are fully expanded, and a method of assistance in this direction is to crack the outside covering of all vertical buds the previous evening ; this ensures having young blooms next day. By the practice of the above plan the erroneous — yet common — impression that Shirley Poppies cannot be made to last will be dispelled, for they will then keep several days, while, incidentally, their decorative value will be increased. This is the method I have always adopted when exhibiting Poppies, with successful results. B. W. Lewis. '7r/7777/;/fl/-/y/^77///77/77r/7/m7r// c SECTIONAL VIEW OF A WELL-MANURED TRENCH, SHOWING THE YOUNG LEEKS PLANTED. 322 THE GARDEN. [June 20, 1914. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. Grape Lady Downe's. — The final thinning of these Grapes should be accomplished as soon as possible. Remove all seedless berries, and allow sufficient space for the berries that remain to grow to their full size without coming in contact with each other. Examine the border, and if necessary give a good soaking of weak liquid manure, after which the ventilators should be left slightly open during the night. As the season advances, the ventilators should be opened early in the momrng with a view to clearing off con- densed moistxrre. Tomatoes. — Plants which have set a full crop may have their tops pinched out, and should be assisted with some stimulant ; either liquid manure from the farmyard or Peruvian Guano washed into the soil will suit them well. Keep the side shoots pinched off, and if the foliage becomes too strong, some part of it may be removed. Plants for succession may be potted into their fruiting pots and grown in some well-ventilated structure where air can be admitted night and day. If house room is not available, these plants will set their crop quite well in the open if staked and secured to a wire in the same manner as Chry- santhemums. Pot moderately firmly in good turfy loam, and place a few half-inch bones over the crocks. Plants Under Glass. Sprine-Struck Plants of Dracaena, Croton, Pandanus and Begonia should all be potted up as soon as ready and grown in a temperature of 75°. Keep a watch for insect pests, which must be destroyed as soon as they appear, or the plants may soon become deformed in consequence. Cinerarias. — If seeds were sown in April, the plants will now be ready for potting into 4-inch pots. They should be grown in a cold pit facing north, and protected from strong srm when they become established in the fresh soil. Chinese Primulas.— The early batch of these should now be ready for potting into 4-rnch pots. These plants succeed best when grown in a cold nit on a bed of ashes until the autumn, when they should be removed to a cool, well-ventilated house within a foot of the roof glass. During the summer Primulas will benefit by exposure to night air, and the lights may be removed with advantage during warm evenings, but not during heavy rain. Primula seeds may still be sown to produce plants for spring flowering. The Flower Garden. Watering. — If the weather is dry, constant attention should be given to recently planted subjects, for, if allowed to suffer from want of moisture at the roots, no amount of care afterwards will restore them to their natural beauty. After watering has been thoroughly accomplished, the soil between the plants should be carefully hoed, and this will act as a mulching to the roots. In places where a mulching of horse-manure can be applied, this will be of great advantage to the plants ; but before this is applied it should be placed together for fermentation and allowed to remain for a few days. Plants in vases with restricted root space and full exposure to sun and wind should receive daily attentiori in this respect, or many of them may cast their leaves and become unsightly. Spring Bedding Plants.— Wallflowers, Poly- anthuses and other plants intended for spring bedding should be transplanted from the seed- beds to a convenient plot, in order to produce good, stocky plants when the time arrives. Allow sufficient space between the plants to admit plenty of light and air, and do not allow them to suffer from want of water during the summer. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Raspberries. — Plants which are swelling their fruits wUl benefit by a good soaking of manure- water, and, if not already done, the bed should be mulched with farmyard manure. Suckers which are not required for next season's crop or for autumn planting may be removed, in order to admit sun and air among the plants. As soon as the fruits begin to colour, the bed should be carefully netted to protect them from birds. Strawberries. — Late batches of Strawberries should receive an abundant supply of water at the roots, in order to swell the fruits. If once the plants are allowed to suffer from want of water, the prospect of a satisfactory crop will be much reduced. Net the plants as soon as the fruits begin to colour. Wall Trees. — ^The leading shoots which are necessary for extension shoidd be carefully tied or nailed in the direction they are required, but no general stopping of the growth should take place for another month. Apricots which are planted on well-drained borders must receive a plentiful supply of water at the roots. Examine the trees for maggots, which should be destroyed at once. Peach trees ought to be syringed early in the afternoons, and if there are signs of red spider or other pests, a little Quassia Extract may be mixed with the water constantly to keep them in check. The final thinning of the fruits should take place as soon as possible, leaving the best- placed fruits and nothing beyond a fair crop. The Kitchen Garden. French Beans. — Frequent small sowings should be made in the open garden, choosing ground which has been trenched during the winter. As growth advances, a mulching of decayed manure will be of great benefit to them, especially if the weather is dry. Carrots. — A sowing of Stump-rooted Carrots may now be made for use in the winter and spring. If the soil is dry, the drills should be watered freely in the evening and the seeds sown the following morning. If a crust has been formed by the water, this should be slightly disturbed before the seeds are so\vn. Spinach. — This is an important summer crop, and requires a good deal of attention during drj- weather. At Frogmore we sow weekly in cold pits during the summer, and water freely everj' day. By this means we keep up a constant supply of green leaves through the summer. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Asparagus. — In most cases it will not be wise to cut after this date, although I have known several gardens where cutting was continued until the beginning of July. These cases, however, are exceptional ; indeed, if the beds are not in a very good state, it would be better to stop even much earlier than the middle of June. It must he remembered that next season's crowns have to be formed by the present year's growth. When cutting ceases and the young growths come away, care should be taken that these are not shaken bv strong winds, otherwise the stems break off at the base, which will weaken the crown. To prevent this, they should be supported with small stakes and connected with tarred string. Dwarf Beans. — A sowing made out of doors now will for all practical purposes be sufficient to last the season. Should the ground be dry and there be no immediate sign of rain, it will be ad\'is- able to soak the seeds in water for several hours before sowing, and if the weather continues dry, they will he all the better for an occasional watering. For this crop thin out the plants to about a foot apart. Peas. — In many districts it will not be safe to sow after this date, at least in the open, and even a sowing made now may to a large extent be precarious. For the most part I advise sowing early varieties for late cropping ; still, I was much impressed a year ago with a very fine crop of Peas quite late in the season, which I was in- formed was Chelsonian, and it seems it can always he relied on. Seeds sown now should be soaked in water for an hour or two previously. Avoid thick sowing, which would assuredly encourage attacks from mildew. The Flower Garden. Dahlias. — These will now have got nicely started away in their flowering quarters, and every care should be taken to hasten them on till the flowering stage. As it is scarcely possible to overfeed them, a little short farmyard manure spread over the surface will be very beneficial. Their season, as a rule, is all too short, and should their growth be retarded by any neglect, it is just possible they may be cut down by frost before they come into bloom. It must be remembered that earwigs are particularly fond of Dahlias, and every means should be taken to have them trapped. This is best done by placing a little dry moss in a small pot and putting it inverted on the stake. The pots must be examined morning and evening and the earwigs destroyed. Do not wait until they have done some damage, but commence trapping at once. Flowering Shrubs. — A great many of these will have passed out of flower, and any pruning that is necessary should be done forthwith. In doing so, first cut away all decayed and sickly branches, and afterwards cut back the strongest shoots, so that when completed the shrub will have the appearance of a renewed lease of life. Plants Under Glass. Winter Stocks. — A start should now be made by sowing a small quantity of seed of these delightful winter and early spring flowering plants. The seeds may be sown either in small pots or boxes, and placed in a cold frame and brought on very quietly. Successive sowings can be made till the end of July. The Stocks most suitable for this work are the Beauty of Nice type and that lovely lavender Emperor, Augusta Victoria. During the past season we had a house devoted to them, and they were a sight not readily to be forgotten. Many of the spikes were over two feet in length. I find they travel well and last a long time in a cut state. Coleus thyrsoideus. — This striking greenhouse plant is fast becoming popular, partly from the fact that it possesses flowers of a clear blue shade, a shade which is very much in evidence at the moment. The plant itself, however, is handsome, and, blooming as it does in the winter, it has an additional attraction. Cuttings should be inserted at once, and, like other members of this family, they root quickly. After being potted on they ought to be pinched at least twice to form nice bushy plants. Keep them growing on in a moderate temperature where they will have plenty of light and air. Solanums. — These one-time favourite fruiting plants will now be ready for their final potting, and in doing so see that the soil is moderately rich. For obvious reasons the pot should not exceed 6 inches or 7 inches in diameter. In favoured districts these plants may be gro^vn outside during the summer months, but in colder districts better results will be obtained by growing them in frames. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Protecting Strawberries. — If this has not been done, no time should be lost in having the nets put over the various plantations. This work is often delayed too long, on the plea that the fruits are not yet colouring. My experience is that the birds often attack them before they get to that stage, and it is much more difficult to keep the birds out after they have had a taste than it would have been had the fruits been protected earlier. Raspberries. — These should receive a heavy mulching at once if this has not been already done. Before doing so, clear the ground of weeds, and thin out the suckers where they appear too close. Fruits Under Glass. Peaches. — In houses where the fruit is colouring a drier atmosphere should be maintained, and to enable the fruit to be well coloured all round, it will be necessary to put the leaves aside ; indeed, if time permitted, each fruit should be turned up to the light by placing a small piece of lath tmder it. In the earliest houses where the fruit has been gathered, the trees should be heavily syringed to keep the foliage healthy, and see that the border is in a moist condition. Vine Madresfleld Court.^Water should never be given to the border until it has been previously tested. This should, of course, apply to all fruit borders under glass, but more particularly to those containing this fine variety. If the border is too wet, the berries will be liable to split ; this usually occurs just before they commence to colour. Another cause of splitting is the berries being too tightly packed. In any case where splitting is observed, keep a free circulation of air night and day. John Highgate. (Head-gardener'to the Marquis of Linlithgow.) Hopetoun Gardens, South Queensferry, N.B. June 20, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 323 BOOKS. The Ethics of Rebuilding.* — Mr. Weaver, in the prefatory note to this volume, writes : " The welcome given to ' Small Country Houses of To-day ' would seem, if I may believe my correspondents, to have been due in no small measure to chapters which described old houses repaired and enlarged. This suggested that a second and uniform volume, dealing wholly with the treatment of old houses, whether cottage or farm, house or small manor house, would be useful to the increasing number of people who like the atmosphere of age in their homes." The author's previous volume in the same series was a deserved success, and we believe this book will be accorded a welcome at least as great as that enjoyed by its predecessor. The many difficulties which are inherent in the repair and enlargement of an old house are very thoroughly dealt with in this book, which shows how forty houses of five centuries have been given a new lease of life Detailed descriptions reveal how they have been re- equipped as modem needs demand, without destroying the witness they bear to the old traditions of building. Incidentally the author has shown in how many cases the records of modest little houses have been preserved and how intimately their local story is woven into the larger fabric of national history. To all who contemplate the altera- tion of an old house and desire to achieve it in the right spirit, this book will be an indispensable guide. My Garden in Summer. f — Mr. Bowles in "My Garden in Summer " has written a book more interesting even than " My Garden in Spring," captivating though that is. The writing throughout is brisk and breezy, while it is replete with amusing passages which make it the more piquant. One which has " fetched " us is the following : " The Haworthias, with their starry rosettes, look as if sprinkled over with pearls or a carefully picked out handful of white hundreds and thousands, which could only have been the work of the little girl who produced a farthing in the sweet-shop, saying, ' A farthing's worth of hundreds and thousands, and please pick out all pink ones,' " Mr. Bowles tells his readers of plants which many of them may never have heard of, and accordingly whets their desire to grow them. It is rather a surprise to us to find the author, who does not as a rule shrink from expressing his opinion about many plants, writing favourably of Rose Rayon d'Or. We admit it has perfect mildew- proof foliage and bears some beautiful flowers ; but for how long can it be grown ? Our experience of it is that when it does not die outright the first * " Small Country Houses : Their Repair and Enlarge- ment," by Lawrence Weaver. Country Life Library ; 15s. net. t " My Garden in Summer," bv E. A. Bowles. London ; E. and T. C. Jack ; price 5s. net. season after planting, it dies by early instalments. We are glad to see that Mr. Bowles has so high an either. The only reason why production cuiitinues must be on account of new cultivators joining opinion of Rosa Moyesii — too seldom seen in | the ranks of specialists, and to these the new gardens — a good doer, practically evergreen, and writers who from time to time emerge into the a veritable glory throughout June. By the by, public gaze make a strong, if not an overpowering we know of no hybrid raised from it yet. On appeal. It is to these, the extreme tyros, that pages 72 and 73 Mr. Bowles tells his readers of the present volume devotes its fifty-five beautifully the lovely Roses he saw in bloom at Modane last printed pages ol Carnation lore. From the year. What a pity he did not mark them then simplicity of the style and the unconnected group- and pay the spot a visit in lifting-time ! His ing of the various items, one would not have been garden would have been the richer for it, and so surprised to learn that the author had been keep- would some of ours, as Mr. Bowles is the very ing in view the horticultural schoolboy. And soul of generosity. In reading the book one the very simplicity aimed at has been the means almost feels one's self walking round the author's of leading him astray on more than one occasion ; garden with him, so realistically is it written, but that perhaps is rather on account of book com- Mr. Bowles is undoubtedly ever open-eyed and a position being less in his way than the production keen observer of everything, whether it be a plant, an insect, or a bird. He is enthusiastic of Mont Cenis and its neighbourhood, as well he might be, for we know of no place more beautiful or more interesting from a plant point of view. Many who read this book will feel as we do — that we A THATCHED SHELTER AT MR. F. E. SMITH's HOUSE must alter our gardens and make them more like the author's. A persual of " My Garden in Summer" cannot fail to teach readers much they did not know before. It is apparently written with a good-natured desire to help them, and not with a superior didactic air we have met with in other books. From beginning to end " My Garden in Summer " is a book of kindness — charac- teristic of the author. It is charmingly written, original and full of information, while there is not a passage in it to which the most sensitive person can take exception. In a word, it is a book we cordially recommend to every horticulturist. Perpetual-Flowering Carnations.* — Books on Carnations are becoming as plentiful as those on Sweet Peas, two flowers which are so easy to grow that it would be expecting too much to look for anything novel in a new volume on * " The Perpetual Carnation and How to Grow It In- doors and Out of Doors," by E. J. Wootten, Carnation Specialist. Manchester; Warren and Son, Limited. London : Simpkin and Co.. Limited. Price 3s. net. of the sweetest of sweet flowers. One cannot judge of the utility of a book like this just because of these obvious facts — facts that stare one in the face in perusing the book. The teaching is in general to be commended, though why cuttings properly treated should require so long a time as six weeks to become rooted is not very clear, j Other cultural items as well as the remarks on cutting and preserving the blooms when cut are tn the point. Like other growers, Mr. Wootten has his special compost, which contains as much as one- third rotted stable manure to the loam. I should tremble for the future of Carnations given manure in these pro- portions ; but perhaps the 3-inch potful of charcoal to the eight bushels of soil and manure is intended as a mild corrective. The timing of the blooming sea- son by means of stopping is becoming an '"absorbing question, which the author leads one to expect to see solved in the list of varieties appended, but one is disappointed to find nothing of the kind when reference is made to the list. This is a serious omis- sion. The volume is illus- trated, showing blooms of . nicely bound in art linen, R. P. B. many Carnations, and the printing is clear and good PRELIMINARY REPORT ON THE WORK OF THE TULIP NOMENCLA- TURE COMMITTEE. In the autumn of 1913 an invitation was issued by the Royal Horticultural Society to the leading growers to send to Wisley for trial bulbs of their varieties of Tulips, with the names under which they respectively knew them. These were planted at Wisley, and on Monday, April 20, a joint com- mittee of Dutch and English experts met to consider the early varieties, and again on May 6 and 7 to consider the May-flowering varieties. The committee consists of Mr. E. A. Bowles, M.A. (chairman), Mr. Krelage (vice-chairman), the Rev. Joseph Jacob, and Messrs. Barr, de Graaff, Hall, Hoog, Leak, Needham, Roes and Ware. Over four thousand varieties were examined, 324 THE GARDEN. [June 20, 1914 and their nomenclature and synonyms determined. The trials of the May-flowering varieties only will be continued in 1913, and growers are invited to send fresh bulbs — five of each variety — named. Bulbs will not be accepted later than November i, 1914. Senders are asked to roughly designate their colour and the class to which they belong to facilitate the work of planting. On each occasion the committee sat in confer- ence and drew up recommendations for a classifi- cation. These will be reconsidered at a conference to be held at Vincent Square on May r3 and 14, 1915. It is then intended to prepare the final list of varieties and synonyms, and all recom- mended varieties will be definitely placed in one or other of the sections and subsections of the classification. This final list, with official descrip- tions, will be printed and published by, and at the expense of, the Royal Horticultural Society in conjimction mth the Dutch Bulb Growers' Society in Haarlem. To make the descriptions short and clear, certain typical varieties will be selected, described, figured and named, so that others can be described by reference to them. Thus systematised, the colour, shape, base, and the relative length and breadth of the inner segments will be recorded. The Council have adopted the recommendation of the committee to hold a show of Darwin and Cottage Tulips on May 14, igrj, for cut blooms only, in vases, for the purpose of enabling the Nomenclature Committee to decide on the svnonvms of the varieties sent. PRUNING DECIDUOUS FLOWERING SHRUBS. hard. These include Forsythias, Prunus triloba 3 jre pleno, P. sinensis Acre pleno and Philadelphus Lemoinei erectus. With another group, notably Deutzias, Kerrias and Spiraea van Houttei, it usually pays to cut the older growths entirely down to the ground, leaving the remainder to develop their full length. Other bushes are improved by cutting the ends of the flowering branches back to where yoimg shoots are pushing out, also cutting out a few long growths when too thick. Instances of this treatment are Philadelphus coronarius, Spiraea arguta, S. pruni- folia flore pleno. and Diervillas. At the present time the Lilac bushes, admittedly one of om- most beautiful flowering shrubs, require attention. All the old faded flowers should be cut off, and at the same time thin out the quantities of young shoots which are growing rapidly. Treat- ment such as this, in reducing the number of growths, admits more sun and air to the bushes, with the consequent development of much better flowering wood for next season's display of blossoms. Another matter which may have attention at the present time is the mulching of deciduous flowering shrubs with well-decayed manure, also watering if the weather is dry. Should the manure be considered objectionable, there is the alternative of watering liberall)' several times with liquid manure. A. O. WILD FLOWERS FOR THE GARDEN. r I HE correct pruning of many flowering shrubs has a great deal to do with their success or failure in our gardens. It may mean — in fact, it usually does mean — the difference between a most attractive border of flowering shrubs and just an ordinary border of shrubs serving as a screen with no particular beauty. Broadly speaking, flowering shrubs can be divided into two great groups, namely, those which flower during the spring and early summer, and those which produce their blossoms in late summer and autumn, which, if any priming is required, shoifld be attended to in early spring. At present we are concerned with the first- named group, which includes the Philadelphus, Ribes, shrubby Prunus, the early-flowering Spiraeas, Deutzias, Forsythias, Kerrias and Dier- villas. The term "pruning" here is intended to include also the cutting out of old, useless wood and the thinning of the growths to admit air and light into the bushes, thus ripening the shoots, which will improve their floriferous character. At the same time, the shape of the bushes may be considered, taking off a long piece here and shortening a shoot elsewhere to maintain them as shapely specimens. The time to do this work is as soon as convenient after the flowers fade. This enables the plant to make ample new growth for the sun and air to ripen before the dull days of winter. It is quite impossible here to give any hard-and-fast rules respecting the amount of pruning necessarj-. Individual require- ments vary so much, and the position the plants occupy in the garden may also need consideration. Some kinds flower mr^re freely when pruned fairly WHEN thinking of wild flowers for the garden we should on no account forget the Woodruff. If there is a damp, shady place where little will grow, the Wood- ruff will cheerfully spread over and lighten it with its tufts of bright green leaves and snowy white flowers. The Trollius, or Globe Flower, is a fine, handsome summer plant and worthy of a place in any garden. If annuals are wanted, then why not try a collection of British Poppies ? One cannot, of course, get the great diversity of colouring as in Shirley Poppies, but collecting the seeds of the different kinds, the Pale Poppy, the Round Rough-headed Poppy, the Long Smooth-headed Poppy, the Opium Poppy, and so on, will be a work of great interest. Then there are the Crane's-bills. They deserve to be represented in every garden. First, one might have the Dusky Crane's-bill (Geranium Phaeum), flowering in May and Jime ; then, in sharp contrast, the beautiful bright blue Meadow Crane's- bill (Geranium pratense), and the Bloody Crane's- bill (G. sanguineum), with large purple flowers and deeply cut leaves. A place should be found, too, for the common purple Foxglove, though, unless there is some bare spot where it can spread at will, it must be kept carefully within bounds. Another plant to have in small quantities is the Borage, also its two cousins, the Viper's Buglo^s (Echium vulgare) and Alkanet (Anchusa officinalis), all three of which have bright blue flowers. If there is a wall to be considered, plant Red Spur Valerian (Centranthus ruber) in the crannies. Once it gets a firm hold, it spreads quickly and flowers on from June to September. The Rose Bay (Epilobium angustifolium) should on no account be forgotten. It makes a splendid show if given a rather damp position, but here again it must be kept in order, or it will choke ever>-thing else. One must not linger too long over the summer flowers, attractive though they are. The early autumn is very well supplied with blossom, too. All the different Campanulas or BeUflowers are well worth growing, and so is the beautiful blue Chicory (Cichorium Intybus), which will go on until it gets nipped by the frosts of October. There are two bulbous plants for the autumn which one ought to find room for — the Meadow SaSron (Colchicum autumnale) and Scilla autumnalis, or Autumnal Squill. The first named is very like a Crocus, with flowers of an indescribable shade between pink and purple. It is not common, but grows freely where it is established. One peculiarity about it is that its leaves and seed- pods do not appear until the spring, though the flowers are out in September and October. The Autiramal Squill is a rather larger plant than the better-known spring variety, and its flowers are not quite such a beautiful blue, but, none the less, it is a valuable plant for the autumn garden. For the actual winter, one should have the two Hellebores, Helleborus viridis and H. foetidus. The former has flowers of a bright, clear green, while those of the latter are rather darker and of a purple hue. They are closely allied to the Christmas Rose, and if planted in a sheltered position will bloom in the very depth of winter. It is as well to cultivate berried plants for the winter, such as the Stinking Iris and Wild Artmi, both of which have large heads of bright scarlet berries in the winter. All of these are plants suitable for an average garden without any special features, but, of course, if one has a rock garden or a pond, one can specialise still further. For the rock garden one can make a collection of British Saxi- frages ; there are about fifteen of them, and it would be a verj' interesting task gathering them all together. There are Saxifragaoppositifolia (purple), S. aizoides (bright yellow), S. hypnoides (white) and various others, including our old friend, London Pride. The Sedums would make another collection, and here again one finds a great variety, from the common yellow Stonecrop, that grows on walls and cottage roofs, to the big purple Orpine (Sedimi Telephium), which sometimes reaches a height of 2 feet. Pinks, of which there are four different kinds, also the Gentians, wUl adapt themselves to a rock garden quite happily. A pond has great possibilities for wild gardening. To take one of the largest and handsomest plants first, we must be sure to include the Flowering Rush (Butomus umbellatus). It has long, sword- like leaves 3 feet or 4 feet long, and in the summer splendid heads of rose-coloured flowers. One should, of course, have Water Lilies, both yellow and white, also the yellow Iris for the early summer, with Arrow-head and Water Plantain to follow. If the edges of the pond are damp and marshy, then there are innumerable possibilities of growing things like Bog Asphodel (Hottonia palustris) or Water Violet, Butterwort, Buckbean, &o. Even if the edges are not marshy one can make a great show with Loosestrife, Forget-me-not, Amphibious Persicaria, Skull-cap and various other plants. In fact, as soon as one turns to wild gardening, a vast range of new and interesting possibilities is opened up to us. One word of warning in conclusion. Unless the plants are common, or you know that there are plenty of them to be had, do not go and dig them up yourself, but get them from a florist. Almost all the rarer British wild flowers can be obtained quite easily and cheaply, either plants or seeds, from a good nurseryman, and, there is no excuse for despoiling the country of rare plants. D. C. ^^t. GARDEN. -pS?=--' rfsl^^ No. 2223.— Vol. LXXVIII. June 27, 1914. NOTES OF THE WEEK. The Great Spearwort. — What a noble waterside flower the native Ranunculus Lingua is, yet so very rare in English gardens. Its tall, straight stems, bearing very large, rich yellow flowers like giant field Buttercups, are very handsome. With this and similar moisture-loving plants more freely used we might obtain a fringe of beauty, not only of flowers, but also of foliage, to out pools and streams during the summer and autumn months. The Shrubby Flax. — Linum arboreum is one among many others of a beautiful and useful class of plants. It is of a sub-shrubby character and well suited for the rock garden, usually attaining a height of i foot and as much through, although occasionally one comes across specimens twice that size. At the present time it is crowned with its golden cup-shaped blossoms. It is not in any way fastidious, but the best position for it is a sunny, well-drained one in gritty loam ; and, should the soil be of a non- calcareous nature, it will greatly benefit by the addition of some old mortar rubbish worked in. The plant is easily raised from cut- tings of the growth that follows after blooming. The Speaker and Horticulture. — We have much pleasure in publishing a portrait of the Right Hon. James W. Lowther, P.C, LL.D., D.C.L., M.P., Speaker of the House of Commons, who is presiding at the annual Festival Dinner of the Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institution on Friday of this week. This Institution is doing a vast amount of good work in granting pensions to aged or infirm gardeners, or the widows of gardeners. We hope that all of our readers will do what they can to support it. The sscretary is IMr. G. J. Ingram, 92, Victoria Street, Westminster. In spite of his busy life the Sp'aker manages to find time to take a keen interest in practically all branches of horticulture, and may often be seen admiring the flowers at the Royal Horticultural Society's fortnightly shows. We hope at a later date to publish an illustrated description of the gardens sur- rounding his charming country residence, Campsea Ashe, Suffolk. Rock Gardens at York Gala. — Rock gardens naturally form one of the great features of this exhibition, and the grand old stone of the York- shire moors is here used to great advantage. It is remarkable, however, that there is no special class for rock gardens at York. Class 2, which, according to schedule, is for a group of hardy plants and flowers, with a pool of water arranged for effect on the ground- level, always brings a number of rock garden exhibitors into competition, although there is no mention of either rocks or alpine plants in the schedule. Surely it is time that the society altered its schedule to include a special class for rock gardens, and it is doubtful if any place in the British Isles is better situated than York for a really first-rate compe- tition in this interesting phase of gardening. THE RIGHT HON. JAMES W. LOWTHER, P.O., M.P., SPEAKER OF THE HOUSE OF COMMONS, WHO IS PRESIDING AT THE FESTIVAL DINNER OF THE GARDENERS' ROYAL BENEVOLENT INSTITUTION THIS WEEK. The Misuse of Colour Terms. — There seems to be a growing tendency for raisers of new plants to include in their names some colour term that one might reasonably expect describes the colour of the flower. In two Roses of comparatively recent introduction the word " gold " appears, and purchasers naturally assume that they are buying Roses of golden yellow colour. But they have to get up early in the morning to see it, because when the flowers have been kissed by the sun, the gold, elusive as the real thing, has departed. Then last week a good new Pa3ony with the prefix " golden " received an award of merit from the Royal Horticultural Society, yet its predominant colour is a charming shade of rose pink, what little yellow is present being almost hidden deep down among the numerous petals. This loose use of terms is misleading, and is cer- tain to do raisers of new plants harm in tlje long run. The Chelsea Flower Show for 1915.— On another page we publish a communica- tion from the Rev. W. Wilks relating to the Royal Horticultural Society's Chelsea Show for next year. It will be seen that exhibitors have been asked to state whether they are in favour of the show being extended over more than the usual three days, or whether they would like the show to be opened on Wednesday instead of Tuesday. Considering the voting, the Council have decided to hold the show on three days only, and that these days shall be Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, as in the past. We think the Council have taken a wise step in coming to this decision. .\ flower show, especially where cut blooms are extensively used, is not particularly attractive after three days of warm weather, and we cannot think, considering all the circumstances, that more convenient days than Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday could be chosen. Fabiana imbricata. — This is one of the most interesting of plants, and, although it belongs to the same family as the Potato, so closely resembles a Heath from its outward appearance that, by the casual observer, it would at once be taken for a representative of that genus. It is a fairly quick-growing shrub, with upright habit, crowded with small leaves, the flowers being pure white and tubular in shape, and borne in great profusion. Like many other plants from the regions of Chili, it is only moderately hardy in some parts of this country, although in some favourable districts it will make a handsome Shrub, while in others it will often form an ornamental feature if given the protection of a wall. It is said to be a useful plant for growing in maritime districts where the climate is favourable, as few plants can stand the sea spray better than this. It is easily increased by cuttings, and, being a fast-growing plant, young ones soon replace an old plant, should any winter prove too hard for it, 326 THE GARDEN. [June 27, 1914. CORRESPONDENCE. (Tlw Editor is not rcsfioiisibte for the opinions expressed by correspondents.) Goronilla glauca Outdoors.— The specimen shown in the accompanying illustration is planted on the south front of Theberton Hall, on the East Coast and not far from the sea. It has been flowering ever since last November. It is well worth a place in the garden for winter flowering. The plant is 61 feet high and 6 feet wide. — W. H. COLLETT, The Gardens, Theberton Hail, Leiston, Suffolk. Mazus reptans. — This handsome little plant has been grown in this country now for some years under the name of Lobelia radicans, and it was not until last year, when it was shown by the Wargrave Hardy Plant Farm at a meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society and given an award under the name of Mazus rugosus (which, by the way, is a weedy annual by comparison), that any interest was shown in it. It is a free-growing, pleasing little plant, blooming continuously from spring to late autumn, although perhaps not so freely as some plants. It prefers a cool spot in a sheltered nook, when its prostrate stems will creep about freely and the small green leaves form quite a dense carpet, above which are borne the purplish flowers, with yellowish white throats and reddish orange dots. In general appearance they very much resemble some of the small Lobelias. It is easily increased, as the young creeping growths root as they go, or they may be taken and placed under a handlight. — F. G. Preston, Botanic Garden, Cambridge. Fecundity of Plants. — Having to hoe a border of the wild garden recently, I was struck by the remarkable fecundity of certain plants and the facility with which their seeds germinate, even under the most unpromising conditions. The Foxgloves, the Forget-me-nots and the Iceland Poppies are the examples I have in mind, where in each case young plants come up year after year in such remark- able numbers as to give the impression that the plants are perennials of most spreading habit. The seeds of many plants are exceedingly numerous. For example, the Henbane is calculated to produce from 30,000 to 50,000 seeds Poppy is almost equally prolific, and hundreds of others in this country or in their native home seed with such freedom as to make one wonder what would happen if every seed germinated. Here is an interesting theore- tical calculation : One grain of Oats sown in an ordinary field will grow and branch, many of the branches producing a head of grain. For the calculation let us take modest estimates, say, eight branches each bearing thirty grains, so that the resulting crop is 8 x 30 times the amount sown. To argue that the crop should mean a return of 240 times the amount sown is pure nonsense ; but where is the enormous loss, and cannot science do something to reduce that loss just as it is at present trying to attain satis- factory intensive cultivation ? — H. H. A. Roses on Their Own Roots. — It is quite a debatable point whether or not it is worth the time and trouble spent in striking cuttings of Roses to raise a stock of plants to grow on their own roots. Years ago I struck many cuttings of Hybrid Per- petual varieties under glass and in the open. Some were a success, such as Magna Charta especially. Plants of this variety are still flourishing. La France, too, succeeded very well for a brief period, and so did Paul Neyron and John Hopper, as well as Marquise de Castellane. Many of the dark-coloured sorts like Duke of Edinburgh were too weak in growth to succeed ; they seemed to require the aid of a wild Briar to make them grow well. I have tried of late many cuttings of climbing varieties, and find they succeed much better ; but even these are not to be depended upon always. Many other sorts might be cited in support of my doubtful views as to the desirability of depending upon plants from cuttings. I think perhaps, if the plants so raised were tested in rows for one or two seasons before finally placing them in their permanent quarters, some disappoint- A GOOD SPECIMEN OF CORONILLA GLAUCA GKOWING OUTDOORS AT THEBERTON HALL, SUFFOLK. The ment might be saved. I recently saw in a nursery fifty plants of the variety American Pillar that had been so tested, and certainly the result well justified the trial. Such strong-growing sorts as Felicite Perpetue I know will flourish on their own roots equally well with the budded plants, but this variety perhaps stands alone in its vigour. — E. M. Rehmannias for the Open Border. — Rchmannia angulata. and especially the variety Pink Beauty, is deservedly popular as a conservatory plant ; but, excepting my own experience with it, I have only once come across it in the open border. That was at Hopetoun House, Linlithgowshire, when those gardens were under the charge of Mr. Thom.is Hay, now Superintendent of Green- wich Park. So successful was Mr. Hay's experiment with it that I determined to follow his example, and the results have been equally satisfactory. Seed should be sown about midsummer in a pan in a greenhouse temperature, and when the seedlings are fit to handle they should be pricked cut into other pans or well-drained boxes, and in course of time potted up into ji-inch pots. If well attended to as regards watering, they may remain in these pots till olanting-out-time, although it will be a great advantage if they can have a shift into 5-inch pots in the spring. The plants should be twice pinched to induce a bushy habit. Cool conditions suit them best, and they should be gradually hardened off so that they may be planted out in May. A few clumps of three in a herbaceous border help to give it a look of distinction. I am not quite sure where this species hails from, but botanists tell us that the genus is confined to China and Japan, and the other two introduced species, A. chinensis (syn. glutinosa) and A. rupestris, hail from North and Western China respectively. — Charles Comfort. Liiting Tulips.— In a letter to the Editor "H. B." asks my advice about lifting Tulips in a garden where the soil is heavy, and also in one where it is light. I think there is no doubt whatever that Tulips do better when they are lifted and replanted every year, whatever the soil is. As the bulb loses the whole of its roots, or, to speak more correctly, as the new bulb makes no roots for a con- siderable time after the roots of the old one have perished, nothing is gained by their being left undisturbed, except perhaps an earlier start into life, which is just the one thing most of us do not want to facilitate. The foliage comes through the ground quite soon enough HI our trying climate when the bulbs arc planted in November. " H. B." also enquires about the treatment of Tulips when they are lifted. As soon as the stems and leaves have gone quite withered-looking and dry, take up the bu'bs, cut the dead foliage off, and spread out thinly in bo.xes or on a floor out of the reach of the sun and draughts, but with plenty of air. When they have become dry, clean the bulbs and store them in a dry place in paper bags until planting- lime. The smaller bulbils should be put by themselves in a nursery bed to grow on, and le planted in September. The very small ones had better be thrown away, except those of any very special sort. — Joseph J.\cob. An Iris Contrast. — It is somewhat remarkable that the beautiful Chinese Iris Delavayi is not more generally grown in gardens. This, however, may be due to the fact that its beauty has yet to be seen by many garden - lovers. There is nothing quite so rich in the violet hue among Irises as Delavayi, unless it is one or tw" of the hnest of the Ka^mpferi Irises. In any " may be had in bloom from May till the end of the summer. The best time to take the cuttings is directly the flowering period is past, the plants being cut down to within a few inches of the. soil. Prior to cutting them down, the roots should be kept rather dry ROCK for a few days. From these cut-off portions of the plants the most suitable cuttings should be chosen, selecting for the pur- pose the short, sturdy shoots that are likely to develop into good bushy plants. All weak shoots with a tendency to flower must be avoided. About three inches or a little more is a suitable length for the cuttings, which must be inserted into clean, well-drained pots of sandy soil. The compost may be made up of loam lightened by a little leaf-mould and sand, the whole being passed through a sieve with a one-third of an inch mesh. As much of the soil as possible should be rubbed through. When the pots are filled, they should be duly labelled and watered through a fine rose, after which they may be stood on a light, airy shelf in the greenhouse or in a similar position. If inserted in July, the cuttings will be well rooted within a month, when they will be fit for potting off. For this purpose 3-inch pots are very suitable, and the same kind of compost as before recommended for the cuttings may be used, but it should not be sifted. In a good, light position in the greenhouse the young plants will grow away freely, so that the most forward may be shifted into 5-inch pots by the autumn. They must, when young, have the growing points pinched out, in order to ensure a bushy habit of growth. Some varieties will require more frequent pinching than others. As the plants go out of flower, cuttings may be put in up to the end of August or even later ; but, of course, these will take the best way of keeping the plants free of this pest. Old Plants. — When the old flowering plants are cut down as before mentioned, they should be stood on a stage in the greenhouse fully exposed to the sun. They will not require any water j at the roots, but should be bedewed over two or I three times a day with the syringe. Under this treatment young shoots wil' soon be pushed out, and as soon as the most forward are about half an inch in length, the plants should be repotted. They must be shaken quite clear of the old soil, when, at least in some cases, it will probably be found that there are but three or four roots coiled around the pot. These roots should be cut back hard, and all the plants be repotted into a much smaller pot than they were in before. Some will by autumn need repotting, but the bulk may be left till the spring. .\t all events, these old plants may, if desired, be grown into much larger specimens than those obtained the first year from cuttings. H. P. HARDY FLOWERS FOR CUTTING. T GARDliN BY THE LAKIiSIDE AJ BLliK'HLKV I'.'iKK longer to root than the earlier ones, and conse- quently they are best wintered in small pots. In early spring they may be put into those in which they are to flower, 5-inch and 6-inch being very suit- able, using turfy loam with a little leaf-mould or well-decayed manure and sand, and taking care that the soil is pressed down firmly. This last item is a very important one in the culture of these Pelargoniimis, as, if potted loosely, the shoots run up quickly and become bare at the base before the flowering period. When the pots are well furnished with roots, stimulants must be given ; but it should be borne in mind that cuttings from highly fed plants do not root so readily as those to which little stimulant has been given. In all stages of growth green fly gives a good deal of trouble, vaporising being H.\T hardy flowers are more popular to - day than ever goes without saying, but those that are adapted for indoor decoration are, perhaps, the most useful. To be able to cut them with the freedom that one ought, it is advisable to have a reserve plot for the purpose, as cutting from the permanent bor- ders is seldom satisfactory, for fear of spoiling the eff. ct. Such a plot should be situated in a good growing position and be well culti- vated, and planted more for ease in cutting rather than for effect. The earliest flowers available are the Narcissi ; but as these are usually planted under more natural conditions, they are not a necessity in this plot, unless it be the late Gardenia - flowered variety, N. albus plenus odoratus, which appears to delight in rather better attention than do those that flower earlier. Turning to other bulbous plants, we find the early flowering Gladioli particu- larly useful in such varieties as Colvillei alba. The Bride (pure white) and cardinalis (scarlet, with white flakes). Blushing Bride is a pleasing combination of white and pink, while Peach Blossom and Rosy Gem are titles that need no comment. Following on these are th,e Spanish Irises, which for cutting can scarcely be equalled. Some pretty colours include Cajanus (deep golden yellow). Reconnaissance (dark bronze with gold blotch). King of the Blues (a fine dark blue), British Queen (white, striped orange) and Louise (pale blue). The English Irises flower a few days later, and some good examples are Proserpine (dark purple), Mont Blanc (white, with yellow band down the centre) and Prince Imperial (clear blue). I June 27, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 331 After these come the beautiful white spikes of Hyacinthus (Galtonia) candicans ; these are very useful for tall vases along with the late summer- flowering Gladioli. This section is larger and more stately than the early-flowered varieties, and they are seen at their best in such forms as brenchleyensis (brilliant scarlet) and the many charming hybrids. Among the Lilies we have a wide choice, and as many of them are happier when not disturbed too frequently, the site for them should be thoroughly prepared previous to planting. In the speciosuni group we have such sterling varieties as s. Melpo- mene, with rich crimson flowers, heavily spotted and edged white ; s. album, pure white ; and s. rubrum, white, with red spots. Other most useful forms include L. candidum or the Madonna Lily, also the beautiful Orange Lily (L. croceum), while L. tigrinum (Tiger Lily) and the charming L. canadense are indispensable. Of Montbretias it is impossible to speak too highly, as they are so light and graceful, and in colours that are very effective under artificial light. They have also been con- siderably improved of late years, a fact which is very noticeable in such varieties as Prometheus, with its tall branching spikes of rich orange flowers that are shaded and spotted with crimson in the centre. Others of equal merit are George Davison (pale orange). Koh-i-noor (deep yellow on apricot base) and Germania (orange scarlet). The ^' foregoing notes, though not ex- hausting the suitable list of bulbous plants, serve to show that from June till well into October there is more or less of a succession, and the same is possible to a greater extent among plants at very little cost, as many of them can be raised from seed sown in early summer. Commencing with this convenient section, one of the most useful is the Aquilegia, as few hardy flowers come in earlier and are more effective in vases of any description. These are followed by the Pyrethrums, which for their beauty and free-flowering nature are well worthy of extensive cultivation. From a packet of seed some good varieties are obtainable ; but where this method of obtaining a collection is not adopted, the follow- ing is a selection of the best forms. Among the doubles are Lord Rosebery (scarlet), Aphrodite (white), Duchess of Teck (pink) and Lady Kildare (buff yellow). Some pleasing singles are Ixion (bright rose), James Kelway (crimson), Ahmed (pure white) and Fairfax (pink). For July flower- ing the brilliant colours of the Gaillardia and of Coreopsis grandiflora are indispensable. In Heuchera sanguinea we have a typical herbaceous plant, and as its flowers are most useful for cutting, it should not be overlooked. Del- phiniums are beautiful in their varying shades of colour. Among the named varieties they are seen to perfection. Belladonna is a lovely blue with white eye ; Enchantress, light blue. In Barlowii the flowers are deep blue, shaded red, while for a pale yellow there is none to compare with Beauty of Langport ; it is a semi-double, and its well- formed spikes are freely produced. Another charm- ing flower is Scabiosa caucasica. In colour it is pale lilac, and as the flowers are formed on excep- tionally long stems, it cannot be too highly praised. A vase of Sweet Peas is incomplete without that charming little flower, Gypsophila paniculata. The Giant Oriental Poppies are not favourites with everyone ; but as they are practically alone where size and rich colouring are concerned, they are worthy of a little space. Of a more graceful appearance are the Iceland Poppies, and though, like others of the same family, they are short- lived, vases containing them more than repay for the trouble of everyday replenishing. Lychnis chalcedonica is also worthy of note for its brilliant heads of scarlet flowers. The Ox-eye Daisy (Chrysanthemum maximum) is useful, as are some of the Campanulas, notably C. grandis, C. pyra- and fragrance nothing can equal Hesperis alba flore pleno. Other varieties are H. lilacina and H. purpurea. All of them are at their best towards the end of June. The Phlo.xes are general favourites, especially in such an excellent variety as Amabilis (bright salmon with crimson centre). Iris is a beautiful shade of violet blue ; Amazon is pure white ; a beautiful rose pink is Eclaireur ; while for an excellent scarlet John Stewart is worthy of note. Achillea Ptarmica The Pearl is at its best in July, as are also Helenium pumilum magnificum and the newer variety Riverton Gem. With the approach of September there is a wide choice of suitable flowers. The outdoor Chrysanthemums are approaching their best, the perennial Sunflowers give us an abundance of yellow flowers, and the Japanese ■Anemones supply the always big demand for white flowers, while the brilliant spikes of Kniphofia STONE STEPS LEADING TO THE WATER LILY POOL AT BLETCHLEY PARK. midalis and C. persicifolia. All the above repay for good treatment to fit them for early spring planting. There are others not generally raised from seed that should on no account be overlooked, as they include some of the brightest and most reliable flowers for all purposes. Of these the earliest to flower are the Doronicums, two useful varieties being D, austriacum and D. plantagineum excelsum. Both bear yellow flowers on long, slender stems, but the last named is of a more robust habit, growing some two feet higher than the former. Dielytra spectabilis and D. s. alba bloom at a time when outdoor flowers are none too plentiful, and as their graceful racemes of pink and white are much sought after for tall vases, they are worthy of good treatment. Anthemis tinctoria (rich yellow) and A. pallida (creamy yellow) are both useful plants, as their period of flowering usually extends over a few weeks. Inula glandulosa is another yellow- flowered plant not to be missed ; but for purity Uvaria are readily made room for. These are not over before the Michaelmas Daisies come in cloud- like clusters to last until the cold nights prove too much for them. Of these. Beauty of Colwall, Climax and Amellus Perfect Beauty are indis- pensable. F. J. TOW.NEN-D. HERBACEOUS BORDERS. In addition to staking and tying, the flowering stems of such plants as Lupines, Doronicums and many other early flowering subjects should be cut over as soon as they begin to fade. In the case of Lupines and Delphiniums, they usually throw up a second crop of flowers in the autumn, which are most acceptable. Should any vacant spaces appear in the border as the result of this cutting, these could be filled up with suitable annuals or other plants that may be at hand. 332 THE GARDEN. [June 27, 1014. NEW AND RARE PLANTS. AWARDS OF MERIT. Silene alpestris grandiflora flore pleno. — This charming alpine is so fully described by its name that little need be said of it beyond the fact that it is calculated to become one of the most popular of rock garden subjects. It is 6 inches or so high, the double, pure white flowers about half an inch across, and produced with the same abundance and profusion as in the typical species. Quite an acquisition to first- class alpines and a gem withal. The purity of its shroud of blossoms is reflected by a carpet of shining green leaves. It is quite the best new alpine of the year. Exhibited by Messrs. R. Tucker and Sons, Oxford, and by Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, Kent. Delphinium Henri Moissan.— The flowers are large, semi-double, reddish violet or purplish in colour, and framed into a hand- some spike. From Messrs. Black- more and Langdon, Bath. Sweet Pea Robert Sydenham. A very beautiful waved variety of deep orange salmon colour. The best of its class we have ever seen. The blooms are large and well placed on the stems. From Mr. Thomas Stevenson, .^ddlestone. Sweet Pea Royal Purple.— The name is not quite colour descrip- tive, but as an approximation there- to readers will get a good idea of a very fine and distinct variety. Sweet Pea Bobbie's Orange.— A most brilliant flower, and a variety of merit and distinction. The individual flowers are very large. These came from Messrs. Dobbie and Co., Edinburgh. Carnation Scarlet Glow. — A very handsome and shapely bor- der variety of brilliant scarlet hue, the petals of very firm texture. We regard this as one of the best scarlets yet raised. From Mr. C. Blick, Carnation specialist, Hayes, Kent. Rose J. F. Barry. — Said to be a sport from .\rthur R. Goodwin. In any case it is a charming variety, rich golden yellow in the centre and white tipped on the outer petals. It is obviously a free and profuse flowering variety, and promises well as a garden Rose. Shown the n by Mr. G. W. Piper, Uckfield. Rose Princess Mary. — A single-flowered crimson of considerable colour richness. Indeed, in this respect it is one of the most brilliant we have seen. From Mr. Elisha Hicks, Twyford. Carnation Bedford Belle. — A Perpetual- flowering variety of delicious fragrance and that shade of salmon pink which engenders popularity. The flower is of medium size, shapely, and in its class probably unique for its rich Clove perfume. Raised and exhibited by Messrs. Laxton Brothers, Bedford. Paeonia Golden Harvest. — This is a double pink-flowered sort, and we take the name as suggestive of the money an acre or so of such a beautiful variety would bring to the commercial grower. From Messrs. B.itb, Wisbech. Polystichum minutum undulatum. — Those who know the typical species will realise the importance of the new-comer as indicated by the varietal name. It is very beautiful and distinct. From Mr. J. Fraser, Uchelet, British Columbia. All the foregoing were shown before the floral committee of the Royal Horticultural Society on the i6th inst., when the awards were made. A USEFUL FLOWERING CURRANT. (RiBES GORDONIANUM.) This Flowering Currant is not so frequently met with as the commoner R. sanguineum and its varieties, and is not so showy or free-flowering, yet it is a valuable shrub for the mixed border. DAFFODILS IN NEW ZEALAN D. EW DOUBLE-FLOWERED P^ONIA GOLDEN HA It is of garden origin, a hybrid between two well- known species, viz., R. sanguineum and R. aureum, the well-known and commonly called Buffalo or Missouri Currant. It forms a dense, spreading bush, and the flowers are a very pleasing and unique colour, a shade of terra-cotta red, and are darkest on the outside, thus making the racemes, which are fairly long, very conspicuous before the individual blooms open. In foliage the parentage is entirely distinct, R. sanguineum having tomentose foliage, while R. aureum has decidedly glabrous, pale green leaves, and the hybrid is intermediate, resembling R. aureum in the shape of the leaf. For vase decora- tion it is a good shrub, as the sprigs last well in water, are showy and distinct. E, Beckett. Aldenham House Gardc'iis, Ehlrce. THE notes on " Daffodils in New Zealand," which appeared in The Garden last September, were intended to interest your English readers in the progress New Zealand is making with the Narcissus, and also with the object of eliciting comment and information on the subject from other growers, for I am sure that among them there must be a large fund of interesting experience and knowledge, which each individual grower would like to share. It seems a round about way of obtaining such information, by means of an English paper, but we have not in New Zealand a gar- dening periodical, or any news- paper taking a lively interest in horticultural matters, mth any- thing like a general circulation through the Dominion. However, The Garden is a very popular medium, and by availing ourselves of it we effect the double purpose of reaching home and Colonial readers at the same time. I have just read the letter of Mr. Frank Mason of Feilding in your issue of February 2i last com- menting on my notes, and am very pleased he has let me down so lightly with regard to my ignorance of Wellington growers, which I admit, but do not wholly regret, since it brought forth his letter, and I hope will be but one of many such. Since I penned my notes my knowledge of Southern doings has expanded, for I have made the acquaintance of Mr, .\. E. I.owe of Tai Tapu, Christchurch, who came to .Auckland to act as judge at our show last September, and Mr. Joseph Weightman of .Awahuri, whom I met at the Cam- bridge Show the same month. The latter staged there some of his early flowering seedlings, and I can fully endorse Mr. Mason's opinion of his tridymus varieties. I se- cured some of them to bring to -\uckland for our Daffodil Con- ference, but unfortunately they did not last long enough. The early trumpet seedlings shown, RVEST. which he told me were mostly the result of his initial sowings of seed from chance crosses, were, I thought, lacking in finish and refinement ; but I was much struck by the robust strength they all showed, demonstrating that the soil and climate of Awahuri are eminently suitable for Daffodils. In conclusion, may I reiterate the wish that other New Zealand growers, especially those South of Auckland, will take advantage of your columns to let us know how the culture of our spring favourite progresses from here to Invercargill ? I understand we are to have an article on this subject in the next issue of " The Daffodil Year Book," but that will not be published for some months to come, and I prefer the homeopathic principle of " a little and often." Auckland, New Zealand. F. E. Grindrod. June 27, 1914.' THE GARDEN. 333 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. THE accompanying illustration shows an old barrel planted with suitable sub- jects and forming a picturesque addition to my garden. A rough wooden pipe was made 3 inches across and square-sided, and the length was nine-tenths of the height of the barrel, and stood upright in the centre after being pierced with holes. This was to ensure water reaching all parts, and in dry weather it must be often filled up. Soil was filled in between the pipe and the sides, with crocks and a few turves in the lower third. The plants were inserted as tlie soil reached the level of the holes cut in the sides of the barrel. Saxifraga umbrosa (London Pride), Cerastium tomentosum (Snow in Summer), and a hardy Geranium grew and flourished exceedingly. The Saxifrage can be seen in full bloom now, and the Cerastiiun just shows round the edge on the right. A Cam- panula and some Wallflowers (on the top) sprang up of their own accord ; the latter were the finest in the garden. I have just cut off the bloom, hoping they will flower again later. The Cam- panula is not yet due to show buds. On the top I have also seedlings of Canary Creeper, which will run up tliree sticks slanted over the watering pipe in gipsy tripod fashion, and a Campanula gar- ganica is thriving, its roots being pro- tected by large stones. These are necessary, as otherwise the soil at the top gets very dry in sunny weather. On the ground round the base I had Forget-me-nots and Wallflowers. I cleared them away just before the photographer came, so as to make the picture less confused ; but they are essen- tial to complete the beauty of the real thing. Three large, healthy bosses of Sedum grandiflorum rubrum (red Stone- crop) can be noticed, which will come into bloom later and last till November ; so three seasons' flowers are ensured. The Cerastium and Saxifrage were green and pretty all the winter. Finchley, London, N. M. W. S. FLOWERS IN OLD BARRELS. is especially valuable for the hardening off of bedding plants, Lobelia, Ageratum, Heliotrope, Ivy-leaved and Zonal Pelargoniums, and other such plants rooted and potted in the previous autumn which have had their winter quarters in the greenhouse. In early autumn the same frame would be in request for cuttings of Violas, Calceolarias and Pentstemons, while possibly also affording shelter to Echeveria, which is much used as an edging plant. For such cuttings it is important that the bed of soil be raised fairly high, say, to within 8 inches of the glass. This will promote and retain dwarfness in the young plant, and that degree of sturdiness, too, so essential to subsequent success. The raised cutting-bed will also afford drainage, and, in conjunction with intelligent ventilation, keep damp at bay. I RAISING PLANTS FROM SEEDS AND CUTTINGS IN FRAMES. We are persuaded that the raising of plants from seeds and cuttings claims the serious attention ' of so many of our readers that we gladly comply with the requests we have received to deal with the subject. So far as the raising of annuals and other plants intended for use in the present summer bedding is concerned, the moment is late. At the same time, the amateur's frame is so constantly in request that hints on management of both the frame and its occupants are serviceable at any season. In the first place, we must differentiate between the cold frame and the manure frame or hot-bed, since both have their separate uses, and shoidd not be confounded the one with the other. The Cold Frame. — During the spring months, more particularly of April and May, the cold frame OLD BARREL PLANTED WITH HARDY FLOWERS IN A LONDON GARDEN. Avoid frequent sprinklings of water overhead. One good watering when the cuttings are inserted should last for a fortnight. The Manure-Bed Frame has a greater value than the cold frame, in that in it may be raised all manner of half-hardy subjects from seeds. For example. Aster, Stock, Phlox Drummondij, Tobacco Plants, Ageratum and others may be raised in this way ; while cuttings of Lobelia, Heliotrope, Chrysanthemum, Verbena, Fuchsia, herbaceous Phlox and similar plants will often root with greater certainty in such a frame than in the greenhouse. One reason of this is that they revel in the slightly ammonia-charged atmosphere, the uniform warmth and moisture arising from the manure-bed being also congenial to their well-being. Then, again. such a frame is in every way excellent for starting tuberous Begonias or Dahlias from which cuttings may be required. Tomato, Cucumber or Vegetable Marrow seeds may also be so\vn. By securing two or three loads of stable manure — a scarcer commodity in these days than formerly — turning it over occasionally to dispel rankness, moistening any dry parts meanwhile, it will be ready for making up in a fortnight or so. It should be made 18 inches wider than the frame at all poiftts, and, when completed, a 2-inch surface covering of Cocoanut fibre or sifted leaf-mould should be given inside the frame. In a day or two the frame will be available for use. Cuttings will need careful watering and shading. A watchful eye must be kept so that an excess of steam does not collect. This with strong sunlight is dangerous. Cuttings of the before- named subjects require free supplies of water and root quickly. Phloxes, Chry- santhemums and Pentstemons should be early removed after rooting, or they will become drawn and weak. Raising Seedlings. — The chief dangers to these in such a frame are thick sow- ing, over-watering, too much soil cover- ing, and delay in pricking off. The first and last militate against success by pro- ducing a thin, lanky growth, and plants of the annual class, Schizanthus, Clarkia, Delphinium and others, rarely recover if once they become drawn. Here the amateur or beginner should remember that a dozen nicely grown Schizanthuses are better than fifty lean specimens. The former are the more readily produced by sowing three or four seeds in a 4-inch pot, subsequently reducing the seedlings to one plant, and removing its point of growth when 2 inches or so high. This allows of the whole space of the pot and the soil, too, for a single plant. Subse- quent stopping will promote bushiness, and an early shift into a 6-inch pot will do the rest. Earlier sowings of this plant in a cold frame wiU give good results for bedding, observing drier treatment gene- rally. The Schizanthus does not usually transplant well ; hence pot-raised plants as suggested are the best. The Frame. — But while thick sowing and the other things named are sources of danger and great drawbacks to success, there is an almost equal danger in the frame itself. The frame should be clean, well painted or white- washed. The covering lights should also be scrupulously clean. Light is an important factor to good growth, and may be unduly withheld owing to dirty glass or small squares of glass. The use of small "pieces of glass is wrong and bad, and should not be countenanced. Each in its way obscures light, and a thin, meagre growth results. Then, the surroundings of the frame are often at fault, trees or buildings obscuring the light so much needed by the plants. These are some of the things to avoid, some of the things which cheat the beginner out of the successes which should be his, if one might judge of the assiduity and zeal with which he pursues his way. 334 THE GARDEN. [June 27, 1914. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. Strawberries. — No time must be lost in securing sufficient young plants for next season's forcing. Layers should be carefully placed in small pots, which may be half plunged between the rows of plants. \Vhen these are sufficiently rooted, they may be removed to some convenient spot near the potting-shed imtil they are ready for potting into 6-inch pots. Tomato Plants. — Pits from which bedding plants have been removed ma}' now be planted with strong Tomato plants, in preference to planting in the open garden. If confined to single stems, they may set a few trusses of fruit by the middle of August, when the lights can he replaced in order to ripen the crop before the season is too far advanced. Plants Under Glass. Tree Carnations. — Plants which were struck in Februan,- will now be ready for potting into 6-inch pots. Later plants which are intended for flowering in the winter should be grown in a well-ventilated pit, and, if necessarj', the tops may be pinched as late as the end of July. Pot firmly in good turfy loam and leaf-soil, with a sprinkling of fine bone-meal, and in well-crocked pots. Syringe lightly until fresh roots are made. When the plants become established, they may be placed on a bed of ashes in a cold pit, from which the lights can be removed during fine weather and replaced during heavy rain. Begonia Gloire de Lorraine. — The most forward batch of plants should be neatly staked before the shoots become bent. If large plants are desired, a number of thin Bamboo tips may be placed in each pot as soon as the final potting is accomplished, and the voung shoots secured as time advances. When the pots are well filled with roots, frequent applications of liquid nourish- ment will be necessary. Later plants, if placed in small pans or baskets, will make a good display if suspended from the roof of a warm house during the winter. Rhododendrons and Azaleas which have finished their growth and set their buds should be placed outdoors in a position which is not exposed to the middav sun. The pots may be partly plunged in a bed of ashes. Soot-water may be frequently applied, and the plants freely syringed with clear soft water during dry weather. Cyclamen. — Young plants in 3-inch pots may be potted into 5-inch pots as soon as they are ready. The compost should consist of rich loam and leaf-soil, with a good sprinkling of rough silver sand. Place them in a cold frame on a good bed of ashes, and keep a sharp look-out for thrip. which is a troublesome pest among these plants. Light shading must be provided during sunny weather. The Flower Garden. Border Carnations. — These are now pushing up their flowers, and should be carefully staked before they become too far advanced. Keep the hoc at work between the plants, and give light dustings of soot during showery weather. When the flowering period is over, preparation should be made for layering voung stock for next season's blooming, and these should be planted in their flowering quarters by the end of September. Pinks. — -Now is the time to propagate Pinks. If cuttings are inserted in a cold pit and shaded from strong sun, they will soon make roots, when the glass should be removed, in order to keep them hardy and short-jointed .until they are planted in the autumn. Anchusa italica. — The flower-stems of this beautiful plant should be secured to strong Bamboo sticks with as little delay as possible. The wind and rain may soon destroy them if not secured beforehand. Anchusas are easily propagated by cuttings of the roots, which may be prepared in the same way as Seakale cuttings. August is the most convenient time for the purpose. The Rock Garden. Spring-Flowering Subjects.— Many of these are over, and should now be trimmed to give them a tidy appearance and prepare them for the production of cuttings for next season's stock. For instance, the choice varieties of Aubrietia, if cut over now, will soon produce cuttings, which are easily propagated in a cold frame later in the season. The same remarks apply to Arabis. Saxifrages. — Remove old flower-spikes and thin out and top-dress the plants as soon as possible. By these means young stock will be available for future plantations. Plants in Exposed Positions should be care- fully watered during dry weather, and this must be applied through a fine rose to prevent washing the soil from the roots of the plants. The Kitchen Garden. Planting Autumn Broccoli. — There should be no delay in planting early Broccoli. The ground for this crop can hardly be too rich, as the plants will not be subjected to any severe weather before the crop is cut. In planting late Broccoli, the situation chosen should be open and the soil not too rich, or many of the plants may die during the winter. All winter greens ought to be planted as soon as the land becomes \'acant, and it should be remembered that nothing is gained bv overcrowding. Celery. — Continue to plant this crop until the required number of plants has been put out. Water freely as soon as the plants are placed in position, and never allow the beds to become loo dry during the growing season. Leeks. — The maincrop Leeks should be planted as soon as possible. The ground ought to be well enriched with farmyard manure, and the plants allowed 12 inches each way. Water freely as soon as the plants are put out. Onions. — Spring-sown Onions should be thinned as soon as possible. Three inches apart will be sufficient for ordinary purposes ; but if extra large bulbs are desired, a little more room will be necessary. Chicory. — As soon as the plants are large enough they should be thinned to 9 inches apart. Keep the hoe at work and give light dustings of soot during the growing season. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Carrots. — There will still be time to make another sowing outside to provide some useful roots for the late autumn ; indeed, in many cases this will be a necessity where earlier sowings have only done moderately well. For this late sowing it would be as well to select the Scarlet Model or Stump-rooted sorts. This sowing could be made on ground from which early Potatoes have been taken, and all that will be required to be done is simply to rake the ground over and apply a dressing of soot or wood-ashes. Should the weather be dry, it would be as well to water the rows until the plants are well above the soil. Scarlet Runner Beans. — As these will now be growing nicely, see that they are supported in the first instance with small stakes, which will serve until they take hold of the larger ones. Should the soil be of a light nature, mulch them on each side of the row with mown grass or manure, for, as I have already pointed out, it is of the utmost importance that they do not suffer from lack of moisture at the roots, otherwise they will most assuredly fail to set the flowers. Onions. — Where good-sized bulbs are required, the thinning out of the yoimg plants should be completed at once. After this thinning they must be encouraged by frequent applications of manure-water, or sulphate of ammonia and sulphate of potash in equal parts. Early Potatoes. — As the border on which this early crop was planted will be required for seed- sowing or other equally important crop, the remaining Potatoes should be lifted and stored. While doing so, select tubers for seed for next season's crop. These had better remain outside exposed to the weather for a time until they become perfectly ripened. In selecting the seed, see that each set is true to the type of the particular variety. General Remarks. — Keep up a supply of salads by making frequent sowings of Lettuces and Mustard and Cress. Sow the former sparingly, as it is better to simply thin them out. Every encouragement should be given to growing crops by keeping down weeds and the removal of decayed matter, and giving an occasional dressing of some approved artificial manure. The Flower Garden. Azaleas. — These will now for the most part have passed out of flower, and, where at all possible, the seed-vessels should be picked off and some of the stronger shoots reduced, especially among the better varieties. The plants must never be allowed to become dry at the roots, and. should there be the slightest suspicion of this, give them a good soaking of water. Afterwards apply a heavy mulch of farmyard manure, which should be allowed to remain during the season. Brooms. — Like the foregoing, the various \'arieties will also ha\'e passed out of flower; but. unlike Azaleas, pruning mav be more freeh- indulged in. There is no plant that seems to get so soon out of hand as the Broom, more par- ticularly the lovely white variety, and, strange to say. it is just this sort that most people are afraid to prune. For some years I have cut the plants hack just after they have flowered, with the best results; but this' work should only be done by an experienced person. Double Rockets (Hesperis). — These fine old- fashioned plants, which have been supplying us with such sweet-scented spikes for decoration for some weeks past, should now be cut well down to the ground ; this applies more particularly to the double white and purple. They will then form fine bushy plants, which may be broken up in the autumn and replanted. I find that unless they are treated in this way, they quickly go back, and if they are not in very favoured districts the-\- soon die out. Begonias. — These are plants that require abundant moisture at the roots, and although the soil has been well manured, thev will be all the better to have a mulching over the surface during the earlier stages of growth. There are many things that might be used for this purpose, such as leaf-mould and mn\\'ings from the lawn ; but possibly peat moss litter will be found to be as good as any. If this is passed through an ordinary riddle or sieve and spread carefully over the surface, it will not be in the least unsightly. Plants Under Glass. Primulas and Cinerarias. — It will not be too late to make a small sowing of these useful early summer-flowering subjects to ensure a succession to those sown earlier in the year. At this season thev will do better under somewhat cooler treatment, and if carefullv attended to will make quite good plants before the autumn. Humea elegans. — This elegant greenhouse plant will now be developing its inflorescence, and the utmost care must be exercised in watering. Perhaps there are no plants that resent carelessness in this respect more so than Humeas. and that in all stages of their growth. Young plants from a spring sowing will be ready for a shift into a larger pot. but on no account overpot them. Fruits Under Glass. Melons. — The various crops will now be in all stages of growth, and plants that are swelling their fruit should have the laterals stopped "and be given abundant supplies of water at the roots. Endeavour to keep the foliage clear of red spider and mealy hug by the vigorous use of the syringe. Plants growing in frames should have the growths so regulated as to prevent the atmosphere from becoming stagnant. Unless in ven,- favoured districts, it will not be wise to make any further sowings after this date, as during the latter half of September and the beginning of October it is difficult to keep Melons growing with any degree of success. Figs. — The first crop will now have been secured, and the trees should be gone over and examined for insect pests. If any are found, the trees should be syringed with some approved insecticide. The second crop is usually a very abundant one, and will be required to be severely thinned to enable the trees to ripen the fruit. Give plenty of water to the roots, and if the trees are not over- vigorous, give some liquid manure occasionally. John Highcate. (Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.) Hopetoun Gardens, South Queensfcrry, N.B. June 27, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 335 EDITORIAL NOTICES. Bcerii department of /lorfiriiltnir is rcprcsrn'i'd in 'L'HE Garden, and the Editor inrites rradery: to ^rnd in gucsHons rdatinn to matters npon trhlr/i t/iei/ n-i.-^fi exjwrt atlrice. T/ic Editor welcomes pdiotoijrnphs, artirlrs tind notes, but fie will not be responsible for their safe return. All reasonable care, hoiveier, will be taken, and ivhere stamps are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted eontribiUioris. As rer/ards photographs, if payment be desired, tlie Editor asks that the price required for reproduction be plainljf stated. It must be disfinetti/ under^-iond that onbi the urtuul pfwto- gravher or oumer of the cojti/riiiht n-Hi l>r treated nith. The Editor ivill not be respnn^-iblr for the return of artistic or literary contributions u-hirh he nnii/ nn/ be able to use, and the receipt of a proof must nut he liiken us eridenee that an article is accepted. Publication in I'll!'; (Jai'.di^n will alone be recognised as acceptance. Offices: 20. Tavistock Street, Comit Garden, W.C. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor intends to make Thk Gahdkn helpful to all readers who desire assist- ance, no matter what t/ic branch of gardening may be, and with that object will mafce a special feature of the "Answers to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to tlie Editor of The Garden, 20. Tavistock Street, Corent Garden. London, W.C. Tfie name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flmvering s/ioots, ivhere possible, should be sent It is useless to send small scraps that are not cliaractcristic of the plant. Letters on business should be sent to the Pfblishkr. FLOWER GARDEN. CARNATIONS NOT DOING WELL {Mrs. O.)— The Carnation blooms you sent wore cut from weak, sappy stock ; this can be easily judged by the flabby stems. Secondly, they are all sulferinj^ from the ravaj^tes of red spider. These two reasons are the cause of small blooms and poor plants. The pe.'jt is one that requires to be absolutely destroyed ; all plants so affected must be burned. The buif suffused rose pink bloom is called llobert Morton : it is a border Carnation, but owinjj; to its weak neck and weaker habit it is not what we would describe as a useful variety. CULTIVATION OF GERBERAS (Mrs. 5.)— In order to induce a good display of bloom, Gerberas need libera! treatment during the growing season. If in pots, a suit- able compost may be formed of three parts of yellow loam and one part each of leaf-mould and well-decayed manure, with a fair sprinkling of silver sand. The pots must be effectually drained, as the plants need to be freely watered except during the winter months. While the above instructions apply to Gerberas when srown in pots, the plants succeed far better when planted out of doors in a warm sheltered spot. A good example of this is in front of the Orchid-houses at Kew, where some grand specimens are to be seen ; towards the end of the summer and in early autumn these throw up a mass of flowers such as one never sees when they are restricted to pots. It must, however, be borne in mind that only under very favourable conditions will the Gerbera sur^dve the wmter when planted out, and it is most questionable whether it ^ill do so in your district. "Wlien in pots, an occasional stimulant during the summer, either in the shape of manure-water or one of the many concentrated plant foods now so generally used, will assist in the production of blossoms. BOTANICAL TOOLS AND GENTIANS (Tm).— Try Messrs. Sutton and Sons, lieading, or Messrs. Barr and Sons, King Street, Covent Garden, for the former. The Gentian family is of so comprehensive a nature, so varied in stature and its requirements, that in a brief reply it would not be possible to refer to the many species in detail. At some future time we may be able to refer to them more fully. Some of the more fastidious species are responding to moraine treatment, and it is not im- probable that for such as alpina, imbricata, i. alba, bavarica and others this will prove, a more or less congenial home. For the exquisitx:! G. verna some useful suggestions have been given in recent issues of The Gabden, and usually the plant is a success in very sandy soils or sandy peat with summer moisture. G. aeaulis, still one of the most precious of the race, usually grows and flowers well in light sandy soils over gravel, in Heath-like soils, and in loamy soils over sandstone rock or limestone. For these carpeting and stoloniferous sorts firm planting is essential. The Willow Gentian (G. asclepiadea) is usually happy in cool woodland places ; and G. septemflda and G. Przewal- skii. both free flowering and beautiful, are content in cool places in very sandy loam and peat. G. Andre wsii ^the Closed Gentian) prefers moisture or very cool loam and peat soils. We doubt your obtaining great success when growing tlu-sr plants in pots, and only the more (Uiuiuuti\i;-growiiig species would be at all suited to the treatmrnl. Given the soils meiitioned, any so grown should be plunged in a cool spot in the open or in a bed eiieonipassrd by a perforated pipe, so that a cool base would always be assured them. ROSE GARDEN. ROSES AT BAGATELLE (H. V. £.).— The following are the awards given to various Roses from 1907 to 19l:i by the Juries appointed to judge those sent to the Bagatelle Gardens by various raisers. Too much importanc- must not be attached to these awards, as several of our most successful raisers did not send their Roses for com- petition. 1907. — Gold medal ; Marquise dc Sinety. Glassed Roses : Mme. E. SablayroUes, Mme. Constant Soupert, Souv. de P. Notting and ilrs. Peter Blair. 1908. — Gold medal: Rhea Reid. Bronze medals: Dorothy Page-Roberts, Mme. Segond Weber, Mrs. Dudley Cross and Frau Oberhofgartner Singer. 1909. — Gold medals ; Lyon Rose and Mme. Segond Weber. 1910. — First- class certificate : Molly Sharman Crawford. Certificates : Mile. Marie Mascurand, Lady Alice Stanley and Com- mander Jules Gravereaux. 1911. — Gold medals: Beautr de Lyon and Jonkheer J. L. Mock. First-class certiti- eate : Viscountess Enfield. Certificates : May Millir. Walter Speed and Desire Bcrgera. 1912. — Non-com- petitive : Rayon d'Or, Sunburst and President Vignet. Pirst-cla-s certificate : Mme. Jules Bouch6. Certificates : Frau Margrethc Moller and Orleans Rose. 1913. — Gold medals : ilme. Charles Lutaud and Mabel Drew. Non- comp<'titive : Louise Catherine Breslau and Mme. Edmond Rostand. First-class certificate: Grange Colombe. Certificates : Mrs, Amy Hammond, Louise Lilia and Wichmoss. FRUIT GARDEN. PEAR LEAF MITE {Dr. W. £.).— The Pear foliage is badly ultacked by the Pear leaf mite, Eriophyes Pyri. (See njily to " J. G." in our issue of May 23.) INJURY TO CURRANTS {L. S.).— We suspect a beetle, a species of Rhynehites. is damaging your Currants, and think it would be well to spray the bushes immediately with lead arsenate, SILVER-LEAF ON A PEACH TREE {F. J. 5.).— The Peach is attected \vith silver-leaf disease, for which no cure is known. It is a fungous disease growing in the wood of the trees, and when once a tree is attacked, it rarely recovers. Your best plan, since so much of the tree is alfi^cted, will lie to root it out and start afresh. LEAF-BLISTER ON PEAR FOLIAGE (Mr6-. K.A.K.).— The Pear foliage is attacked by the Pear leaf-blister mite, Erio]iliyis Pyri. We have recently given a short account of tliis just in our " Answers to Correspondents," and recommend that when only a few leaves an^ attacked, they should be removed, but when many, the trees sitould be sprayed about the end of May with a nieotim^ wash, and in winter, while the trees are dormant, with lime- sulphur salt-soda wash, commonly called the Oregon wash . LEAF-CURL IN PEACHES (IF. J. ff.).— The Peach and Neetaiine leaves are attacked by the fungus Exoascus deformans, which produces the disease known as leaf-curl. It would be well to pick off all the affected shoots imme- diately and burn them, taking the precaution also of spray- ing the trees with ammoniacal copper carbonate at the same time. When once a shoot is attacked, it rarely recovers, and is of no use to the tree ; it is rather a menace than other- wise. The disease is always most prevalent where cold winds have access to the tree, and on this account screening the trees from winds in early spring, and from frost, is very desirable. MISCELLANEOUS. VARIOUS QUESTIONS {White Horse).— i^sosi some- times affects Asparagus in the way mentioned, but injury from any cause—iu-sects, the cutting knife, &c,— might bring it about. The cause of the extremely common phenomenon known as fasciation is unknown, nor is any remedial measure kno\vn. It is usually attributed to excess of food, cither local or general. The only means of keeping wasps out of a \dnery are : (1) Destroy all the nests in the neighbourhood. This may easily be done if the wasps' nests are traced and a small quantity of carbon bisulphide poured into them after dusk, taking care to dig out the comb next day. (2) By covering over the ventilators of the house with muslin or mosquito netting. It would be better to fumigate the Clianthus rather than to spray it mth paraffin emulsion, and if spraying is regarded as the best method of attack, then a nicotine preparation would be safer to use than paraffin. NAMES OF PLANTS.— K/s, P. J., CAe-sie/-.— Saxifraga op pof-iti folia. Felpham. — Muscari comosum plumosum. - - -Subscriber. — Apparently Sedum spurium ; cannot name without flowers. Anne Amateur. — The flower was too far gone to recognise. A.C. — Lonierra iiivulucrata. F.N., Woolwich. — Heracleum villosuni,al-^o called H. j/iganteum, a Caucasian plant belonging to ihe Umbidlifer family. II. J., Oxon. — 1, Sedum rupestre : 2, Spiraea bracteata ; 3, Armeria maritima laucheana ; 4, Litho- spermum purpxireo - cEeruleum ; 5, Saxifraga tenella ; 6 and 7, Helianthemum vulgare varieties. H. G. — 1, Leycestcria formosa ; 2, Thuja plicata ; 3, T. orientalis ; 4, Collomia coccinea ; 5, Kleinia articulata (Candle Plant). F.F. W. — 1, Lilium pyrenaicum ; 2, Dianthus fse^ius variety ; 3, D. deltoides ; 4, Aceena Novse- Zclandise; 5, Saxifraga Sibthorpii. SOCIETIES. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. The fortnightly m'-rting of Ihc Ruyal Horticultural Society was held at Vinerut Square, AVe^tminstor, on June 16. Hardy perennial flowers were shown in pro- fusion, and the excellent exhibits of fruit trees in pots were deserving of the highest praise. Fruit and VEr.ETABLE Committee. Present: C. G. A. Nix, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs. W. Bates, E. Beckett, H. Markham. A. R. Allan, F. Perkins, W. E. Humphreys, H. J. Wright, P. C. M. Veitch. A. Bullock. J. Jaques, J. Willard, W. Pope, A. Grubb and A. W. Metcalfe. Vegetables were not extensively shown, but Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, W.C, sent a collection that came in for a good deal of praise. In addition to Pras, Carrots, CucumbiTs and Caulifiowers, there were .Mushrooms, Egg Plants, and .such herbs as Pennyroyal, Silver Thyme, Rosemary, Witloof and Myrrh. A silver- gilt Knightian medal was awarded to this collection. Messrs. G. Bunyard and Co., Maidstone, showed Cherries ill pots, all well eropjifd with tlnir luscious fruits. The varii'ties shown wen- j;i1(ni ilr:ni. Black Heart, Governor Wood, Werdn's Early Black, I.udwig's Bigarreau, Black Tartarian, Turkey Ibart, Frogmore Bigarreau, Napoleon Bigarreau, Waterloo and Belle of Orleans. The collection was interesting, and nilected great credit upon the culti- vation given them. Silver Banksian medal. The gold medal collection of pot-trained Peaches, Nectarines and Cherries shown by Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Chelsea, was beyond question one of the features of the exhibition. Among the fan-trained Peaches, Amsden June was shown in grand form. This is on(^ of the best of the early Peaches, being just in front of Duke of York, and ripens at the same time as Early Alexander. Of the Cherries, Frogmore Bigarreau is one of the best of the White Heart varieties. It was interesting to note that Guigne d'Aniioiiay, the oldest Cherry in cultivation, is still one of the {'arliest to ripen, and an excellent cropper. A silver Banksian medal was awarded to the Horti- cultural College, Swanley, Kent, for packed fruits. Orchid Committee. Present : Sir Harry J. Veitch (chairman). Sir Jeremiah Colman, Bart., and Messrs, James O'Brien, Gurney Wilson R. A. Bolfe, F. Sander, J. Wilson Potter, S. H. Low! F. J. Hanbury, R. G. Thwaites, T. Armstrong, A. McBean, W. Cobb. J. Charlesworth. C. H. Curtis, W. P. Bound, A. Dye, E. H. Davidson, H. G. Alexander, AV. H. AATiite S. W. Flory and W. Bolton. There were very few novelties on this occasion, the only one to gain an award being Odontoglossum King Arthur, shown by Messrs. 'J. and A. McBean, Cooksbridge, for which a first-class certificate was awarded. Silver Flora medals for groups of Orchids were gi-antcd to His Grace the Duke of Marlborough, Blenheim, Wood- stock, Oxon; Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Bush Hill Park ; and Mr. E. K. Asbton, Broadlands, Tunoridgc; Wells. A silver Banksian medal was awarded to Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Hay ward's Heath, for a group of choice Orchids including many Odontiodas. Floral Committee. Present : H. B. May, Esq. (chairman). aiKl Messrs. C. T. Druery, W. A. Bilney, J. \V. Barr, F. W. Harvey. J. Hudson. R Hooper Pearson. C. U. Fielder, J. F. McLeod. C. Bliek, J. Jennings, W. Howe, G. Reutlie. C. Dixon. H. J. Jones, F. Page-Roberts, C. E. Shea, C. E. Pearson. G. Paul, W. J. Bean, J. T. Bennctt-Poe. AV. P. Thomson, E. H. Jenkins, AV. G. Baker, W. Cuthbertson, A. Turner and J. AV. Moorman. Messrs. R. AV. AVallaco and Co., Colchester, displayed a goodly table of hardy plants, among which were noted Iris gracilipes, several pots of which were most profusely ffowcred ; Hypericum reptans, a graceful trailing species with yellow flow^ers and reddish stems ; Iris Forrestii, yellow, with blackish striated falls ; Pentstemon hetero- phyllus, of metalhc blue and violet shades ; ^v1th Cam- panula garganica in blue, white and pale blue, C. pulla, C. pulloides, together with fine batches of A'^erbascnms, Ixias, Primula bulleyana, Heucheras and other good hardy flowers. Alessrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden and Taplow. Bucks, had an excellent display of Peonies, Spanish Irises in variety. Lupines, Delphiniums, the early flowering Gladioli, Nepeta MussiTiii and choice Lilies, of which L. regale (myriophyllum) was jirrhaps the most pronounced. Ml'. James Box, Lmdrtcld Nurseries, Hayward's Heath, Sussex, arranged an cxcidlent corner group of hardy plants, among which were Pteonies in variety. Double AATiite Bockets, Delphiniums in variety and Spanish Irises galore, AA''a]ter T. AVare (yeUow), Chrysolora (golden), Snow Queen and Sweetheart (white and yellow) being among the best. Paeonia lutea, the yellow Tree Pseouy, Heucheras, Iris spuria. AA'^ahlenbergia ^dncseflora and Betonica grandiflora robusta were other notable plants. Messrs. Paul and Sons. The Old Nurseries, Cheshunt, had a beautiful table of Roses. Burning Bush (crimson), Mme. Segond Weber, Lady Pirrie, Naiad (blush, with orange anthers, a new Hybrid Briar of huge size and informality). Lemon Pillar (new Noisette). Duchess of AA'ellington and Mme, Kavary were among the best in an excellent lot. Mme. Edouard Herriot was also charming. Messrs. G and A. Clark, Limited, Dover, displayed Poppies, Pseonies, Larkspurs, Gaillardias and other hardy flowers. 336 THE GARDEN. [June 27, 1914 Messrs. Thomson and Charman. Bushey, Herts, had excellent groups of Poppies, Pfeonies, Geums, Lupines- and other good hardy things. Paeonia lutea splendcns is of a rich colden hue, with distinctly lobcd leaves. Geum Mrs. Bradshaw (scarlet) and Linum arboreuni (yellow) were also pood. Messrs. Stuart Low and Co.. Enfield, showed some excellent vases of Carnations, Gorgeous, Princess Juliana, Baroness de Brienen and Princess of Wales oeinp excellent. Good Roses from this firm included Liberty, Ilayon d'Or, Lady Hilhnpdon, Mrs. Charles E. Kussell (deep rose pink of good form). Chateau de CIos Yougeot (deepest crimson) and Lady Pirrie, all being very charming. Paionies from Messr.<^. Kelway, Langport, were extra- ordinarily fine. Queen Alexandra (single white), Cendril- lion (rose), Orby (crimson), Dorothy Kelway (rose) and Sir T. J. Lipton (crimson, i^ith gold anthers) were very good. The Delphiniums from this firm were also excellent. Dusky Monarch (lovely mauve and blue) and James William Elelway (an improved King of Delphiniums) were among the best. Mr Amos Perry, Enfield, showed a great bank of Poppies, including Perry's Blush, Perry's White and The Kint^ (a glorious bit of colour). Thalictrum aquilegifolium eompactum, Abutilon \'itifolium album and Irises were very finely displayed. Messrs. Bunyard. jMaidstone, had a good display ol Pffionic:, of which Duche<;se de Nemnurs (fine white) was onfi of the best. MesoTs. Blackmore and Langdon, Bath, showed .'^ome cxcollent Delphiniums. Henri Moissan (rich purple), Walter T. Ware (purple, white eye) and Mrs. A. J. Watson (deep mauve) were amonc the best. Begonia semper- Horens virginalis was also fine. Messrs. T. S Ware, Limited, Feltham, showed Pseonies, Uaillardias, Peach-leaved Campanulas. Iris ochroleuca, Delphiniums and Achillea alpina in goodly numbers, tlie whole making a fine display. Achillea King Alfred, said to be a cross between A. tomentosa and A. Kelleri, is very free-flowering. It ha."- primrose yellow flower-heads in abundance. It was sho-wn bv Rtr. W. Miller. Mr. Elisha Hicks. Twyford, had some good Rose=, .Mrs G. Norwood (pink), Princess Mary (Hybrid Tea, single crimson, very fine) and Mis. Charles Reed (blush) being notable flowers. Messrs. F. Smith and Co., Woodbridge, fllled a lengthy piece of tabling with Poppies, Lupines, Anchusas. Heucheras. Gaillardias, Delphiniums and other £how>- hardy flowers. Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Chelsea, had a fine grouping of Ela?ocarpus reticulatus. a beautiful white- flowered Australian evergreen shrub. The flowers are drooping, bell-«haped and minutely fringed. Messrs. H . H . Bath , Wisbech , had a showy lot of Peeonies, Solfaterra (white and cream), La Fiancee (white), Marshal Oyama (pink, gold anthers) and Her Grace (full double pink) b'.ing excellent. Spanish -Irises were very fine. Messrs. Piper, Bayswater, displayed Saxifraca Cotyledon. Wahlcnbergia vincpeflora, Mule Pinks, Iris Snow Queen, Genista prostrata, Hypericum fragilis, Coiydalis tomen- tosa, Acantholimon venustum and Dianthus Atldnsonii. which were very beautiful. Messrs. Laxton, Bedford, had some excellent vases of the fragrant pink-fiowered Carnation Bedford Belle. It is a most charming flower. Mr. G. W. Piper, Uekfield, Sussex, had a delightful lot of the new Rose J. F. Barry. It is one of the Pernetiana group, quite hardy, richly perfumed, golden, with white outer petals ; a most charming and free-flowering variety. Mr, Charles Blick. Hayes, Kent, displayed some excel- lent Carnations, Charles Blick (the pure white Malmaison). Salome (fancy). Scarlet Glow (very fine) and Cecilia (yellow) being very fine. Hylda Blick (rich deep cerise) was also fine. Messrs. 11. Tucker and Sons, Oxford, had some charming alpines on rockwork, Saxifraga cochlearis major, S. csesia, S. tyrolensis, Wahlcnbergia saxicola, W. vdncseflora, Onosma taurica, Primula littoniana, P. capitata, Cam- panula cenisia alba. C. pulla. C. excisa, C. raddeana and Silene alpestris grandiflora fiore pleno being some of the most charming in a fine lot. Messrs. Wills and Segar, South Kensington, had a long table of white, blue and pink flowered Hydrangeas. They were very fine examples. Mr. G. Emthe, Keston, had a delightful lot of things, of which Ozothamnus rosmarinifolius, Saxifraga tom- beanensis, Silene alpestris grandiflora flore pleno, Saxifraga valdensis, Moltkia petrcea and Geranium Traversii (pink, with silvery foliage) were among the best. Bruckenthalia spiculifolia (pink trusses on Heath-like stems) was very charming. The Lissadell Bulb Farm, Sligo, sent Primulas beesiana, buUeyana, and the hybrids Alannah and Asthore (bullcyana X beesiana), diff^ering in the shades of red and orange. Messrs. John Waterer, Sons and Crisp, Limited, Twyford, liad some beautiful alpines. Genista humifusa, Potentilla nitida alba, Lewisia Howellii and Trollius yunnanense were excellent. Lewisia rcdiviva was also on view. A flue table of herbaceous plants was also displayed. Mr. Walter Easlea. Eastwood, had a few choice Roses, Cherry Page being very charming. Rosa Moyesii from China was also noted. Messrs. George Jackman and Sons, Woking, had a lovely grouping of Pink Elsie, a pink-flowered variety with crimson base. A large exhibit of herbaceous flowers also came from this firm. Mr. Engelmann showed Carnations in his usual style. Mr. G. Ferguson, Weybridge, had a fine table of Del- phiniums, his mauve-coloured Mrs. Bernard Crisp being excellent. Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond, had a table of alpine and hardy plants arranged on rockwork. Mr. Maurice Prichard showed Iris spuria, Hcmerocallis luteola, Lavatera Olbia, Wahlcnbergia vincEeflora and other good flowers. A superb gathering of Sweet Peas from Mr. James Box attracted much attention. They were very finely gro\vn. Roses from Messrs. Frank Cant and Co., Colchester, were excellent, Diabolo (crimson), Irish Elegance, Una (white) and Rayon d'Or were noticeably good. Messrs. B. R. Cant and Co., Colchester, also showed Roses, Cupid (a new bedding single pink-fiowered variety) being very charming. Irish Glorj', Rayon d'Or and Una (white) were also good. Irish Fireflame is a rich coppery variety. Messrs. H. B. May and Sons, Edmonton, showed a group of Lantanas, Heliotropes and Fuchsias as standards, also Verbenas in high excellence. Mr, H. Burnett. Guernsey, had a lovely lot of Carna- tions, including Scarlet Glow, Triumph, Carola, Mikado, Mrs, Raphael, Marmion, Enchantress Supreme and ilrt. Clodo, the last finely Clove-scented. THE YORKSHIRE GALA. Brilliant weather favoured the fifty-sixth Yorkshire Flower Show and Gala, held on June 17 and the two day.s following in Eootham Park, York. By a general con- sensus of opinion the show w'as one of the finest in the history of the society. The arrangements made by the secretai-y and committee and the expeditious manner in which the judging was completed left nothing to be desired. The weather on the opening day was exception- ally hot, and had it not been for the specially ventilated marquee — which, by the way, covered an acre of ground and was erected by Messrs. Piggott Brothers, London — it is quite certain that the cut flowers would never have stood as well as they did, to say nothing of tlie discomfiture to visitors and exhibitors. The show must rank as the finest from a floriU point of view. Never before do we remember at Y'^ork such magnificent and richly coloured banks of hardy flowers, Roses, Orchids, Carnations and Sweet Peas, Stove and Greehhotjse Plants. The ornamental specimen foliage plants we always expectto find at York, and Messrs. James Cj'pher and Sons, Cheltenham, seem to have had an unusual run of luck this year, for among other successes we noticed thai this firm took first place in each of the following classes : Class 8, for the best collection of plants and cut flower^ arranged for effect : Class 11, for three ornamental foliagi plants ; Class 12, for three Crotons ; Class 15, for a table of Orchids; Class 16, for twelve Orchids in bloom ; and Class 17, for six Orchids in bloom. Competition in Class 1 , for a group of miscellaneous plants, is always a centre of interest. This class was keenly cont&^tcd, and the result was as follows : Fir.-^t prize (£20), Mr, J, Pickersgill ; ^econdprize(£15),M^. William A. Holmes: third prize (£121, Messrs. R. Simpson and Son ; fourth prize (£10), HD. F. H. Ward ; and fifth prize (£8), Mr. T. M. Fetch. The following awards were also made : Special large gold medal to Messrs; Cypher and Sons for a group of slove and greenhouse plants. Large gold medal to Messrs. Backhouse for Roses and greenhouse flowers. Large gold medal to Messrs. Mansell and Hatcher for a superb collection of Orchids. Gold medals to Messrs. Charlesworth and Co. for Orchids, and Mr. R, C, de G, Vyner for Cacti. Large silver medal to C. F. Simpson, Limited, for floral designs and flower display. Silver medal to Mr. H. N. Ellison for Ferns and Cacti. Silver-gilt medals to Messrs. Batchelor and Sons for rare Ferns, and Messrs. Peed and Son for Gloxinias Rock Gardens and Herbaceous Flower. Although the rock gardens make an imposing feature at York, there is, nevertheless, no special class devoted to this interesting phase of gardening. It is curious to note that Class 2, for a group of hardy plants and flowers, has come to be regarded as a class for rock gardens, although the schedule does not say a word about rocks or alpine plants. ]t is truly surprising to ohscT-vc the great advances made in rock garden exhibits in the past few years. The whole of one end of the spacious tent wa? fllled with rock gardens, all of them beautifully arranged and planted with flowering alpines. The grand old weather- worn and often moss-grown stone from the Yorkshire moors is in no small measure responsible for the delightful e fleets produced. Messrs. Broadhead and Son had a truly charming rock garden, through which ran the replica of a dried-up bed of a mountain stream. Bold masses of the Himalayan Cowslip, Primula sikkimensis and Saxi- fraga Cotyledon pyramidalis created drifts of colour that were perfectly in keeping \vith the well-arranged rock garden. A large silver-gilt medal was awarded to this exliibit. As u.sual, Messrs. Backhouse and Son, Limited, York, were well to the fore among the exhibitors of rock gardens. A small stream trickled down between a rocky bank into an informal Water Lily pool at the base. Hart's- tongue and other hardy Ferns grew naturally among the rocks on either side of a little stream. Ramondia pyrenaica . alpine Pinks, hardy Primulas and Saxifrages in variety were all shown in great profusion. This admirable rock garden was awarded first prize in Class 2. Mr. S. Pickering, Clifton, York, was second, but the arrangement was rather formal, with a little fountain playing in the centre. This exhibit was lacking in artistic touch, and the plants were of a common type. Messrs. Artindalc and Son, Nether Green, ShcflQeld. were third, but here herbaceous plants formed the great feature — as, indeed, they should, according to schedule. Mr. T. H. Gaunt, Parsley, Leeds, was fourth with a very creditable exhibit of rock plants, in which Lilium rubellum, Dianthus neglect us and Androsaccs were sho\vn in grand form. Mr. Clarence Elliott, Six Hills Nurserj', showed a number of beautiful alpine flowers, for which "he secured a large silver medal. Campanula pusilla Miss Willmott, with a profusion of silver^' blue bells, was greatly admired. Messrs Kent and Brydon, Darlington, were awarded a large gold medal for a beautiful rock garden that was a near approach to Nature. The interesting Meconopsis panicnlatn. with reddish purple petals and golden anthers, was well shown, as well as a number of rare Primulas suitable for the rock garden. Hardy flc^wers were to be seen on all sides. The tall nnd stately spikes of Eremums robustus, mingled with Verbascums and Delphiniums, made one of the features of this great exhibition. Oriental Poppies, too, were far more in evidence than usual. Princess Ena and Jenny Mawson were shown in great numbers. Hardy Lilies, again, were represented, and magnificent effcctii were created with Lilium umbellatum. Messrs. Wallace and Co., Coichester, had a beautifully arranged group, with Heucheras and Erigerons in the foreground and Delphiniums and Ercmuri in the centre. A good number of hardy Lilies, including the beautiful Lilium monadelphum szo\it2ianum and L. dauricuni luteum, were admirably represented. Large gold medal. The following medal awards were also made : Gold medals to Messrs. R. H. Bath, Limited, for PaK>nies ; and to Messrs. Kelway and Sons for Pa'onies. Silver medals to Messrs. Rich and Co. for cut fiowers ; Messrs. Godfrey and Son for Canterbury Bells : Messrs. Longster and Son for herbaceous plants ; Mr. J. W. Miller for hardy perennials; and Mr. W. R. Tanmer for Violas. Larse "silver-gilt medals to Messrs. Dickson, Limited, Chester, for cut flowers; Messrs. Gunn and Sons for Phloxes: Mr. G. Yeld for Irises and hybrid* Lilies ; Messrs. Blackmore and Langdon for Delphiniums ; and Messrs. Cocker and Sons for herbaceous cut flowers. Sweet Peas. Messrs, E, W. King and Co., Coggeshall, Essex, struck out with an entirely new arrangement wilh arches and pillars. Visitors were able to walk in and around this exhibit with ease. The varieties Hercules. Rosabelle and Anglian Orange were perhaps the pick of a very wide selection of varieties. Gold medal. A gold medal was awarded to Messrs. Bobbies, Limited, Dereham, for a representative collection of the betl varieties, of good qunlity. Messrs. Dobbic and Co., Edinburirh. had a grand lot, which gained for them the high award of a large gold medal. Orange-coloured varieties were conspicuous, and included Thomas Stevenson. Edrom Beauty. In.^pector, Dobbie*s Orange and Melba. Messrs. Dickson and Son. Belfast, were awarded a gold medal for a truly delightful lot of Sweet Peas. A comprehensive collection was staged by Messrs. Bide, Farnhani. Phyllis Bide (oranne) and Kathleen (crimson) were conspicuous in a very fine lot. for which a gold medal was awarded. Miss Hemus was aw^arded a silver-gilt medal for a collection of Sweet Peas. Groups of Vegetables. Messrs Sutton and Sons were deservedly awarded a large gold medal for an exquisite collection of flowers and vegetables of excellent quality and perfect arrangement. The Melons were remarkably good, especially the varieties Universal, Emerald Green and King George. A large gold medal was also awarded to Messrs, E, Webb and Sons, Wordsley, Stourbridge, for an exhibit comprising Begonias, Calceolarias, Gloxinias. Schizan- thiises. Primulas, Sweet Peas, RIelons, Tomatoes, Cucum- bers and other vegetables. Messrs, Carter and Co., Raynes Park, staged one of the most attractive exhibits of vegetables and fiowers that we have seen from this well-known firm. The produce was of the finest quality, and a large gold medal was deservedly awarded. Carnations and Roses. Messrs, Y''oung and Co. were successful in gaining a gold medal for a superb lot of Perpetual-flowering Car- nations, which were staged in a masterful way. In Mr. A. F. Dutton';: gold medal collection from Iver. Bucks, we noted Mrs. C. F Raphael and Marmion, two of the best Perpetual Malmaisons in cultivation. Messrs, W. Cutbush and Son, Highgate, Loudon, arc to be complimented on the perfect arrangement of their large gold medal exhibit of Carnations, Hydrangeas and weeping standard Roses. A silver medal was awarded to Jtr, G. Prince for a choice lot of Roses, in which Juliet and Mmo, Ravar>' were shown in splendid form. In Class 30, for a decorative table of Roses in pots and cut blooms, Messrs. W. and J. Browu were first, and gained a large silver-gilt medal for a grand lot, which, however, did not stand the heat of the day very well : neither were they labelled, Mr. G. Prince, Oxford, was second, and his magnificent blooms of Juliet came in for a great deal of admiration. For a collection of Roses grouped for effect, Mr. W. Todd, York, was first, and his ramblers were very fine. The following awards were also made : Large silver-gilt medals to Messrs, Stuart Low and Co. for Perpetual-flowering Carnations ; and Messrs. W. and J. Brown for Roses. Siher-gilt medals to Mr. C. Engelmann for Carnations ; Mr. W. LawTcnson for Carnations ; and Messrs. Artindule and Son for Violas and Carnations. A first-class cerliflcate of merit for new seedling Roses was granted to the Rev, J. H. Pcmberton, ^^^^.r^s^ GARDEN.! ,X 1,) ^ No. 2224.— Vol. LXXVIII. July 4, 1914. NOTES OF THE W K. The National Rose Society's Show. — We would temind our readers that the Rose show of the year is to be held, under the patronage of Queen Alexandra and the auspices of the National Rose Society, on Tuesday, July 7, from noon until 7 p.m. It will, as usual, be at the Royal Botanic Society's Gardens, Regent's Park, London, N.W. The Golden Heather. — Tliere are many varie- ;ies of our common Ling (Calluna vulgaris),' ranging from loose, straggling sorts to some of, y Messrs. Artindale and Sons, Sheffield. THE NEW ERIGERON ASA GRAY. it is hoped the beginner may be helped so that he may be enabled to win prizes this year. Of course, as to cultural hints, he has had to rely upon past notes, as the exhibitions are now upon us, and by the time these lines are in print the City of London Rose Society will be holding its second exhibition at the Cannon Street Hotel. I would urge all who wish to become exhibitors to join the National Rose Society, and this can be done at once by writing to Mr. E. Mawley, Rosebank, Berk- hamsted, who will then send various books and pamphlets that will be of much value to the exhibitor. To be a successful exhibitor, one must possess a goodly number of the exhibition varieties. Such varieties are listed in the National Rose Society's schedule. There is vet time to attend to various details for the shows that will occur later in July. A most important detail is that of disbudding. This is an operation requiring much judgment. Generally, the central bud on a shoot is retained, and all the others removed as soon as they are of the size of small peas, and even earlier ; but one must be careful the central bud is perfect and not damaged by frost or insect foe, otherwise this bud should be removed and one of the best of the side buds retained. The wood-buds, i.e., those growths that start out below the bud, should be rubbed out also, so that all the strength of the shoot can be concentrated on the one bud. A plant should not be burdened TOth too many shoots. Three or four, or at most five, are ample. Feeding the buds may still be carried out. Good liquid manure, made from cow- manure and soot or from sheep- manure, is as good as anything ; but a good, quick-acting stim^llant, such as guano, wiU go a long way to improve the quality of the blooms. A number of shades should be procured ready to place over the blooms three or four days prior to the show. If a cheap article is desired, what are known as Zulu straw hats, securely fastened on to a Bamboo cane, answer very well, although there are proper shades to be had of the horticultural sundriesmen. Some of the thin and pointed Roses, i.e., those not very double, should be tied the day before the show. This is done with a piece of German wool. Allow the outer petals to be free, but tie the heart of the bloom when in its young stage, and when quite dry. Instead of tying the wool in a knot, give it two turns and leave the ends long ; then it may be tightened if necessary- or released easily. These ties are kept on the blooms until the last moment. Boxes must all be in readiness, and some nice green moss obtained to show off the blooms to the best advantage. Proper exhibition tubes are essential, those known as the " Foster " or " West " being excellent. A Rose always looks best when well raised above the moss. So many beginners seem to ignore this detail. I have seen beautiful Roses cut with short stems and dumped down on the moss, which quite spoilt them, although, perhaps, their quality was superior to those that gained the first prize. A good deep lid should belong to each show box, and be careful that the blooms are put down low enough to escape injury by the lid. The flowers can be arranged properly when at the show. When to Cut Blooms. — As to when the bloom? should be cut, I would advocate late in the evening preceding rather than in the early morning of the show day. There are various reasons for this, one being that in the early morning most blooms look fresh, and one may be deceived when too late. Allow the blooms to have plenty of water. I would prefer to take round with me a large jar lull of water and place the blooms therein immediately they are cut, allowing them to remain in the jar, I July 4, 1914] THE GARDEN. 341 in a cool room or cellar, as long as possible before transferring them to the boxes. Roses keep much better, even those cut for the rooms, when given plenty of water and when cut late in the evening. Referring again to the boxes, there is a standard of size set up by all societies affiliated to the National Rose Society. A good deep box for spare flowers should be taken to the show. This ought to contain a good number of young flowers, for it is surprising how quickly the blooms develop, and often those we judge the best overnight fail at the last moment. Read carefully the standard of an ideal exhibition bloom as laid down by the National Rose Society in its schedule, and also read the authorised rules for judging as defined by the same society. This will give the exhibitor a good idea of the standard to aim at. Upon the journey to the show, keep a watchful eye on your boxes. Somehow the railway porter likes to carry Rose boxes upside down, so that the water trickles down his neck, a detail that may tend to keep him cool, but will be fatal to the Roses. Classes to Show In.— In your first attempt at showing, do not aim too high ; that is, enter for six blooms before you strive to win the prize for twelve. Be careful to have the names correctly placed, and in staging put the largest blooms in the back row and the smallest in front. When practicable, place a pale Rose next to one of a deeper colour, but do not exclude a good specimen on this accovmt. Quality will tell with the judges, not huge, coarse blooms, but those having beauty of form and finish and purity of colour. If you enter in two or three classes and find upon arrival at the show your blooms are inferior to those of your com- petitors, concentrate upon one class only, and put in your best blooms, when you may get a look in, whereas, if all the classes are attempted, you may fail in all. Be careful to fill the tubes with water as soon as you arrive at the show. I have seen lovely blooms ruined by want of water which is either lost on the journey or has been absorbed by the flowers. "Dressing" Blooms. — Do not .be tempted to alter the character of a bloom. What is known as " dressing" a bloom is rightly condemned by the judges. This takes the form of turning the petals back to make them appear larger, and some of our noted growers are great offenders in this respect. When you have arranged the blooms to your satisfaction, cover them with the lid, merely tilting it a little in front to admit air, and keep it thus until ordered to remove it. Ties are kept on the blooms until the time when the bell rings to depart from the tent. Do not fail to remove the ties, as judges are not allowed to do so, and this would militate against your success. Take notes carefully of Roses that gain special medals as best blooms in the show, as generally such sorts are worth growing in quantity for exhibition. Finally, do not be discouraged if you do not win a prize. Take your beating manfully and make a resolve to grow more and give greater attention in the future, when yOu will find success will come. Danecroft. VIOLAS AND VIOLETTAS FOR THE ROCK GARDEN. IF there could be found no valid excuse for importing all the flower beauty of the Viola into the rock garden — much of it, indeed, would be better accommodated elsewhere — there is every reason for introducing that phase of it which it is calculated would show to greater advantage there than in other parts of the garden. In saying this one has particularly in mind the exquisite beauty and charm of the Violettas, that intermediate group which comes between the larger Tufted Pansies (Violas) and others like comuta and its varieties. Of these it may be safely urged that they are peculiarly adapted for the rock garden, more perhaps because of the dainty grace and lowly stature with which they are endowed. a considerable colour range, they are calculated to pleace a large number who do not judge beauty by size alone. Another item of importance in regard to these plants — ^it may also be said of V. comuta and others — is that they flower long and continuously, affording a wealth of cool, fresh-looking blossoms long after the usual occu- pants of the rock garden are past and gone, and in that way making their presence felt in no uncertain degree. Apart from the Violettas, which are a host in themselves, are others which are even more weaJth-affording in beauty and floriferousness, although they are less dwarf, and it may be less dainty-looking also. I refer more particularly to such as V. gracilis, V. comuta and their varieties, than which perhaps none are better suited to the purpose one has in mind. The rich colour masses these afford, no pen-picture could ever portray. They are essentially garden plants, and those A SEEDLING VIOLA IN A SMALL ROCK GARDEN. and which would appear to fit them for association with many choice things. Then, of course, they are distinctly of the perennial class, an invaluable attribute that should go a long way to making these flowers more popular for the purpose one has in mind. It may as truly be urged, of course, that other types of Violas are strictly perennial, and quite suited to the rock garden also. What I particularly desire to point out, however, is the value of the Violettas when permanently planted, and if left alone for two, or it may be three, years they will have had an opportunity of fully demonstrating their worth. So much can scarcely be said of them if it is found necessary to disturb them each year, since in a single season only a tithe of their flower beauty will have been revealed. Veritable carpeters of the soil, though smaller in growth than some, miniature in blossom and embracing who would see them at their best must see them within the limits of the garden. These, like the Violettas, may go on for several years, and give a good account of themselves each successive year. Some, indeed, after five or six years in one position, showed but little - sign of deterioration, the plants meanwhile affording a carpet of fresh green growth long enriched and ornamented by flowers. To urge the hardiness of plants with such durative powers as this might appear superfluous, yet hardiness and longevity combined are among their greater assets. To those who would embrace varieties of each of these I would draw attention to the following : Of the comuta class, alba, pallida, alba compacta. Blue Gem and purpurea are all worthy of con- sideration. Candidly, if I were restricted to one variety of this set, the last would certainly be first — first, because of the rich imperial purple 342 shade, which in my opinion places it hrad and shoulders above thn rest ; and first again, because of the good lesson I learnt from my flowor-loving daughter, who, charmed with its rich colour, culled the blossoms with their 6-inch-long stalks, and, inserting them with their own leafy stems in. white china bowls, produced a singularly beauti- ful effect. It is the only one of the comuta class that in my opinion is capable of such high ornament in the garden and the home ; hence it should have greater claims upon those who seek the dual services of so good a plant. In the V. gracilis set, apart from the excellent typical kind, which is worthy of all thought, the varieties Purple Robe, lutea and sulphurea should be mentioned, interest centring rotmd the latter, whUe great flower beauty and richness dominates the other two. A small set of the Violettas should include Rock Blue, Rock Yellow, Purity, Sweetness (white, with yellow eye), Miss G. Jekyll (yellow and THE GARDEN. plants drop their seeds in the happiest of places, and if possible, because of the new picturt-s such things create, they should be left to display their worth. E. H. Jenkins. [July 4, 1914. SOME LITTLE-KNOWN CLIMBERS. ^THIONEMA WARLEY HYBRID. The ^thionemas, extremely dainty plants. s THE SCHIZOPHRAGMAS. CHIZOPHRAGMA is an Eastern genus of Saxifragaceffi closely allied to Hydrangea, the chief difference between the two genera, from a horticultural point of view, being noticeable in the sterile flowers. In Hydrangea each sterile flower is made primrose), Lavinia (lavender), Eileen (deep blue, yeUow eye), Robbie Jenkins (perfect in form, white, flushed yellow, quite one of the smallest), Diana (primrose) and Gold Crest (a very profuse bloomer). Cultivation. — In this direction the plants ask for nothing more than a moderately deep and good loamy soil, an item of greater importance being, perhaps, a cool rooting medium, though even here they are less exacting than some. In any case the higiter, drier and sunnier positions of the rock garden are places to avoid, while carpeting the flatter places in the line of vision where the flowers would show to advantage. In the case of the cornuta and gracilis sections, compactness of growth may be secured by annual autumn pruning, which encourages, as it also ensures, basal growth of increased vigour. This is important. In addition, a little rich soil mulch will also assist. Occasionally some of these somewhat resembling a refined Iberis. are extremely useful and decorative subjects for hot, sunny posi- tions in the rock or wall garden, though without perfect drainage and very gritty soil they are up cf four bracts, whereas in Schizophragma one inclined to go off during the winter. One of the bract only appears with each sterile flower. For most startling novelties in this connection is to many years S. hydrangeoides was confused with be found in the hybrid referred to at the head \ Hydrangea petiolaris, and plants obtained vmder of this note, a reproduction of which appears the former name almost invjiriably proved to below, showing a colony growing in Miss be the latter. Now, however, two species of Willmott's lovely garden at Warley Place. The | Schizophragma may be procured, thanks to Messrs. plant originated as a seedling from JE. armenum, j Veitch and Mr. E. H. Wilson, the latter gentleman and forms a dense, compact bush 6 inches to having collected and forwarded seeds totheVeitchian firm about twelve or thirteen years ago. The two species are S. hydran- geoides and S. integrifolia. The former species was described in 1835 by Siebold and Zuccarini in the " Flora Japonica," page 58, t. 26. On several occasions it has been included in the botanical collections of both Chinese and Japanese travellers. Oldham, for instance, obtained speci- mens in Nagasaki as long ago as 1862. Seeds of the true plant have also fotmd theirway to this coimtryearlier than those forwarded by Mr. Wilson, for ten years ago a good-sized plant existed in the late Mr. Chambers' garden at Haslemere, In habit it bears a close resemblance to Hydran- gea petiolaris, for it has similar bright brown, scandent branches which climb by means of aerial roots, and the leaves are somewhat similar in shape. They are broadly ovate or, at times, almost cordate, with coarsely toothed margins, and are often from 5 inches to 7 inches long and 4 inches or more wide. They are hairy on both surfaces, particularly on the veins. The flowers appear in large, terminal corymbs, an indefinite number of fertile flowers being intermixed with a few sterile blossoms, consisting of one bract only. The bracts are white, I inch to i§ inches long, and three-quarters of an inch to i inch wide. S. integrifolia is a native of China. It was collected by Professor A. Henry in Szechuan, and was figured and described in Hooker's " Icones Plantarum," t. 1934, in 1890. Seeds were originally introduced to this country by Mr. Wilson during his first visit to China. Like the older plant, it has scandent branches, which bear aerial roots after the manner of the Ivy. It, however, differs widely in other respects. The leaves are ovate or ovate-lanceolate, often glabrous, but sometimes bearing a few scattered hairs on the under surface. The larger leaves are up to 8 inches or 9 inches in length and 4 inches wide. Light, well-drained loamy soil contaming leaf- mould appears to suit both pizmts, and they grow well against walls, on the upturned roots of trees, or on tree trtmks. As they become better known they will doubtless find favour for planting against walls on account of the self-clinging habit. W. D. .SITHIONEMA WARLEY HYBRID, A BEAUTIFUL ROCK PLANT WITH RICH ROSE-PINK FLOWERS. 9 inches in height, producing from mid-April immense quantities of flowers of a deep pink colour, which lasts well into Jtme. So rich is the colouring of the flowers and so compact the habit that at first sight it suggests Daphne Cneorum, and is by far the best of the family, beautiful as many of them are. As the name indicates, this charming plant was raised by Miss Willmott at Warley, and has since received the Royal Horticultural Society's award of merit. No more showy plant could be found for a sunny spot in the rock garden or retaining wall than ,E. Warley Hybrid, and, given a free, gritty root- run and slight protection against winter damp, should the season be a wet one, there is no difficulty in its cultivation. Propagation is readily effected by cuttings, and the greatest effect is obtained by grouping the plants as seen in the illustra- tion. Reginald F. Malby. Supplement to THE GARDEN, July 4, igi4. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S SUMMER SHOW. A S we go to press the great summer y\ show of the' Royal Horti- / % cultural Society is being held, / % by kind permission of Mary * *. Countess of Ilchester, in the charming grounds of Holland House, Kensington. We understand that visitors to the Show will be admitted to thQ private gardens at Holland House each day on payment of is., the proceeds to go to charities. Most of the exhibits are of exceptionally good quality, Roses, Sweet Peas, Orchids, hardy flowers and trees ,and shrubs being dominant features. Here,h9.ve been gathered together all that is, best; from our British gardens and nurseries, and it is to be hoped that the public will visit the show in their thousands, and so compensate the Council and the various committees for their labours in bringing together so magnificent a display. Naturally, this show is of a different character to that held at Chelsea earlier in the year, but it is none the less interesting. An exhibit that everyone ought to see is that arranged by Messrs. R. Wallace and Co., where Japanese Irises border a natural-looking pool of clear water. We have no hesitation in saying that never before have these beautiful Irises been shown in better condition in this country, and when we remember that entire plants have been lifted and transplanted from Colchester to Kensington, we do not think any praise is too high. To the Council and the various officials of the Society we wish to tender our thanks for their unfailing courtesy and help freely given to enable us to report at least the greater portion of the show. HERBACEOUS PLANTS, There is now on view in the historic grounds of Holland House a display of herbaceous flowers and hardy flower gardening of overwhelming beauty, one, while rich in flower colour, is more surpassingly rich in high cultural excellence and that suggestiveuess which in outdoor gardening is of the greatest service. In this latter our readers will reahse the finger-post, and, following it, make of their gardens things of pleasure and delight. In no department is this more true than in the Iris and water garden arranged by Messrs. Wallace and Co., Colchester, at the left of the great tent near the entrance. Here our readers will quickly find a group of a thousand or more square feet of sumptuous beauty arranged in the best of taste. We have, indeed, never seen the great water-loving Irises of Japan displayed more finely, never in such profusion or with flowers of such magnificent proportions. In colour variety there is equal rich- ness— white, purple, violet and rose in sells, or these in combination, which defy description. Certainly the gem of the whole is Morning Mist, a study in white and blue, the flowers of Oriental splendour reaching to dinner-plate proportions. It is in every way a magnificent plant. Rosy Dawn, Mikado (white, rosy lines). Distant Mountain (white, violet veins and rosy standards) and Recumbent Dragon (purple) are among those to be noted. The water portion is approached by stone steps, with Spirasa palmata, the newer Astilbes, Funkias, Trollius chinense, T. pumila yunnanense, Rodgersias and other good plants around. In fine, it is a group of remarkable beauty, the like of which we do not remember to have seen before. At the other e.xtreme of the same tent Mr. Amos Perry has a remarkable Delphinium group, a family which he has largely made his own. The flower-spikes, shown in their hundreds, reveal superb cultural excellence, and, grouped together in large blocks, are seen to advantage. Mrs. Creighton (rich dark purp>, double), Lizzie (fine pale blue single), Edric Kingscote (single blue, white eye), Midas (iridescent blue), Evelyn and King of Delphiniums are some of *he best. In addition there is to be seen a fine ^l of the newer Belladonna types, as Lamartine grandiflora and Mrs. Brunton. Lilium Roezlii (refined orange), Dianthus Napoleon III., with single Dianthuses of sorts, Day Lilies and other Lilies, are some of the more imposing things that must be sought out in this fine group. In this same tent Messrs. Carter and Co., Raynes Park, have set up a superb water garden exhibit, the dominant feature naturally being a fine lot of Japanese Irises. These are arranged in bold, informal groups — just that kind of thing capable of f °t interpretation in the garden, hence justifying exhibition work as a whole. Of the more conspicuous of the Irises are Albertino (white), Tokio (rose and white). Admira- tion (a fine rich purple with white). Morning Mist (bluish white — the greatest, from more than one point of view, of all this race) and Yvette Guilbert (purple, white veins^. "unkias, Adiantum pedatum, Spir^as and BamL„3s either back the group or margin the water, which in its turn is delightfully ornamented by Water Lilies. The grass turfed banks and the excellent execution of the whole add both naturalness and charm. Then, in a sort of annexe leading from the main exhibit and in part revealed therefrom, are Irises again, a nice lot of Bamboos in graceful plumage, together with a fine central grouping of Campanula persicifolia in blue and white. An excellent arrangement worthy of a great firm. Then, in an opposite group in the same tent, Messrs. Waterer, Son and Crisp, Bagshot and Twy- ford, are setting up an excellent mixed arrange- ment of herbaceous and rockwork plants, the whole forming a pretty and effective group. In this we noted rich masses of Larkspurs, Gaillardias, Primula littoniana, Wahlenbergia vincaeflora, Pent- stemons. Campanula puUoides and a great variety of plants suited to the rock garden. Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, Kent, will be found showing an interesting variety of alpines, shrubs and herbaceous flowers. His finer things are Abelia floribunda, Crinodendron Hookeri (also known as Tricuspidaria lanceolata and T. depen" dens — the latter, we believe, erroneously), Rhodo^ dendrons intricatum and camelliaeflorum, Ononis fruticosa, rare and beautiful in rose pea-shaped flowers ; together with Carpenteria californica, Andromeda speciosa, Lilium philadelphicum, L. pomponium, L. Martagon G. F. Wilson, L. Willmottiae, Orchis foliosa and a great variety of alpines. Heaths are very charming, while Edelweiss, Genista and the smaller of the rock- loving Hvpericums are also very beautiful. Messrs. William Cutbush and Sons, Highgate, N., are showing a fine lot of Larkspurs, Bamboos and Liliums in variety. Phloxes, Romneya Coulteri and such things as Campanulas are being well shown. Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garde^ and Taplow, will be found displaying a very fine collec- tion of Delphiniums and Enghsh Irises, the latter constituting a good succession to the Spanish Irises of mid-June. These are very fine, their broad petals (falls) rendering them highly distinct. Iris IfEvigata is also much in evidence. In addition there may be seen a good array of Iris ochro- leuca, together with Day Lilies, Ixias, Calochorti, such Lilies as canadense, washingtonianum, pardalinum, Roezlii and others. Mr. James Box, Lindfield, Hayward's Heath, is displaying in the Upper Tent a remarkable exliibit of hardy flowers, of which cut herbaceous plants and Water Lilies in pools are the most dominant features. The group, of unusual formation, is showing two sides at the entrance and exit of the tent, and is composed chiefly of Delphiniums in blue and violet, with a great mass of white Iris laevigata in front and Spirsa palmata at the sides. At right and left flanks are groups of Bamboos bowing graceful plumes, while imme- diately beneath are stands of Ne Plus Ultra Gladioli mirroring both into fuller life. Centrally placed is a pool, and herein are Water Lihes at once beautiful and cooUng in effect. Gladiolus America, G. Golden West and G. HaUeyi, with the moisture-loving Primulas, are among those seen. Phloxes of several groups are also well shown. Messrs. G. and A. Clark, Limited, Dover, are setting up a fine group of herbaceous plants, notably Delphiniums, Astilbes, Japanese Irises, Wahlenbergias and Ferns. Of the former. Rev. E. LasceUes, Alake, Nubian (a very dark form) and Queen of Spain (white and blue) are the more important. Verbascum Warley Rose is also finely displayed, and is certainly a good addition to this group. Messrs. Whitelegg and Page, Chislehurst, are displaying a fine lot of Delphiniums in almost endless variety and excellence. Wahlenbergia vincajflora is also one of the fine plants to be noted in their group. Messrs. PhilUps and Taylor, Bracknell, Berks, are arranging a fine exhibit of water gardening in conjunction mth Water Lilies and other suitable plants. In the latter section the newer .'Astilbes find an important place, while about and around are to be seen Juncus zebrina, Acorus japonica, Pen- taderias, Sagittarias and quite a representative Supplement to THE GARDEN, July 4, 1914. display of the Marliac Water Lilies. The exhibit is very charming, suggestive and educa- tional. Messrs. H. J. Jones, Limited, Lewisham, are displaying herbaceous Phloxes in the highest excellence, both in the cut state and in pot- grown examples. The latter, indeed, are of great garden value. They display height, habit and those other particulars which are of such inestimable value to the amateur. The group, too, shows how these things can be hurried along ; how with good, or, shall we say, intelligent cultivation, they may be presented to view in the exhibition tent quite worthy of the garden. The best varieties — it is, of course, a question of taste— are Ehzabeth Campbell, salmon and white ; G. A. Strohlein, scarlet and crimson ; Meteor, deep pink ; R. C. Pulling, deep pink, a sport from the above ; Frau Ant. Buchner ; Dr. Charcot, mauve ; and Baron van Dedem, orange scarlet, which is perhaps one of the finest and the best. The excellence of the exhibit and its high decorative merit will, we think, appeal to all. MISCELLANEOUS STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. Cannas and Zonal Pelargoniums are capitally shown by Messrs. H. Cannell and Sons, Eynsford, Kent. The former are always a briUiant feature of this firm's displays, and, as usual, they are represented by a most interesting series of varieties and in the glorious colours for which these plants are famous. Zonal Pelargoniums have for many years been kept well to the front by this firm, who have always exhibited large and handsome bunches of all that is new and choice, and on this occasion there is much to interest and please in the splendid sorts set up for inspection. Zonal Pelargoniums are also set up by Messrs. Carter Page and Co., London Wall, E.C. This display is quite good, and includes a capital representation of the more popular and reliable kinds. Cannas in a mixed group are shown by Mr. A. H. Cole, 3a6, Camberwell New Road, S.E. It is pleasing to find these plants represented by another firm. The sorts are good and the plants very interesting. Ferns and Geraniums from Mr. A. Donnithorne, Ashbiirton, Devon, combine with Begonias to make an attractive display. These are to be seen in Tent No. i, where the combined effect is quite pleasing. Messrs. W. J. Godfrey and Son, Exmouth, Devon, in addition to beautiful Campanulas (Canterbury Bells), have a beautiful display of all species of the Pelargonium and Solanums. The Pelargoniums, which this firm have done so much to develop, are highly attractive, and they represent the various types in charming fashion. The Solanums (Wendlandii), too, are novel and pleasing. Fuchsias and Zonal Pelargoniums are repre- sented in fine form and condition by H. J. Jones' Nurseries, Limited, Ryecroft Nursery, Lewisham, S.E. Mr. Jones, who has done much to improve the Zonal Pelargonium, is showing these richly coloured flowers in excellent form and in capital variety. He has many grand novelties of the Paul Crampel type that show marked advance. Of the newer Pelargoniums the following are note- worthy : Mrs. R. C. PuUing (a giant white), Mrs. G. Lovelock (crimson scarlet), D. B. Crane (bright rose), Mrs. F. Ambrose (deep salmon self), Lottie (rosy scarlet) and Fred GuUiver (orange red). These are just a few of the good things, of which there are many. Hybrids from Fuchsia triphylla are beautiful, and of these there is now a most interest- ing series, all deserving extended culture. The colours of these flowers are now quite comprehen- sive. This exhibit is arranged with a collection of herbaceous Phloxes and beautiful Campanulas. Hydrangeas in charming variety. Fuchsias and Zonal Pelargoniums are weU shown by Mr. PhiUp Ladds, Swanley Junction, Kent. This exhibitor, as is his wonted custom, shows plants that are well grown. Good culture is very noticeable both in the character of the plants and in the quality of the flowers, and they are set up in an attractive way in Tent No. 7. Five hundred species and varieties of stove and greenhouse and British Ferns are exhibited in the Large Tent by Messrs. H. B. May and Sons, Limited, Dyson's Road Nurseries, Upper Edmonton, London. This is a truly beautiful display, such as we are always accustomed to see put up by this firm of Fern specialists. Taste in arrangement and quality of the various plants is paramount in this exhibit, and there is much to interest and please the Fern-lover and others. Noteworthy examples are Polypodium Vidgeri, P. Knightae, P. mandaianum, Davallia brasihense, D. fijiensis, D. Veitchii, Adiantum Veitchii, A. grossum, A. farleyense, Lygodium japonicum (a fine specimen, 12 feet in height), Gymnogramma superba (golden), G. Mayii (silver) and a host of remarkably beautiful examples of other species. Messrs. J. Hill and Son, Lower Edmonton, have a superb group of stove and greenhouse Ferns arranged in the Large Tent that is a source of con- siderable pleasure to the thousands visiting this great show. There are more than two hundred species and varieties representing all the better well-known subjects, and the group leaves nothing to be desired. Remarkable examples of Tree Ferns and Cibotium Schiedei, Dicksonia squar- rosa, Cyathea dealbata, a unique specimen of Platycerium grande (the Stag's-horn Fern), Poly- podium mandaianum, Dicksonia Barometz, Poly- podium quercifolium (a grand specimen) and numerous Davallias in endless varieties are included. The group is edged with beautiful examples of tinted Adiantums in charming variety. At the south-east corner of the Large Tent Messrs. W. Cutbush and Sons, Highgate, London, N., have a large group of a comprehensive character. Cannas are bright and inspiring, and there are masses of dwarf baby Roses and Carnations in charming variety. This group is finished off pleasingly with Ferns and other dainty subjects. A large group of stove and greenhouse plants is set up by Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond, Surrey, embracing a great variety of most interesting subjects. Among the more noteworthy in this charming group are the following : Alocasias, Anthuriums, Marantas, Crotons, DracaBnas, Aralias, Nertera depressa (the Coral Plant), Caladiums and a diverse variety of other beautiful foliage. All combme to make a display worthy of this firm. Mr. Vincent Slade, Taunton, has a number of handsome bunches of Zonal Pelargoniums set up in Tent No. r. This grower has for many years devoted attention to these richly coloured subjects, and his exhibit on this occasion is just what we might reasonably expect of him. The Right Hon. Colonel Mark Lockwood, M.P. (gardener, Mr. G. Cradduck), Romford, makes a most attractive exhibit of well-grown Fuchsias. The displays from this source are always very pleasing, and the character of this exhibit is dis- tinctly beautiful and meritorious. Streptocarpus in Tent No. 7 and C'.Iadiums in Tent No. 6 from Messrs. John Peed and Son, West Norwood, S.E., are noteworthy exhibits in this great show. The former subject is represented by weU-grown plants of a beautiful strain, and the latter are, as usual, shown in all their glory of rich and varied colourings. The tropical weather now being experienced suits these plants splendidly, and there is little risk of the plants sufiering on this account. The varieties are very interesting and the foliage is well coloured. BEGONIAS AND GLOXINIAS. The beautiful exhibits of Messrs. Blackmore and Langdon, Twerton-on-Avon, Bath, are al^vays eagerly sought after by lovers of the tubergus- rooted Begonias, as this firm's representation of this gorgeous subject never fails to attract. The blooms are to be seen in the highest degree of good culture, and such double varieties as Lady Carew (a lovely rose). Princess Victoria ^salmon pink). Lady Cromer, Empress Marie (white), Mrs. James Reid, Mr. James Douglas, Lood Methuen (brilliant scarlet), Violet Langdon (a beautiful flesh pink). Rose Superbe (rose of a pale tone) and many other equally charming varieties go to make an exhibit that well maintains the reputation of this well-known firm. Begonias and Gloxinias are set up in attractive fashion by Mr. A. GwiUim, Sidcup, Kent. This grower has a beautiful collection of the better-known named varieties, the more notable sorts being Sidcup Beauty, Lady Cromer, Miss Ada Britten, Mrs. H. Harris and Mrs. J. C. Gwillim. A magnificent table group of Begonias from Messrs. Thomas S. Ware and Co., Feltham, attracts considerable attention, both on account of its quality and its representative character. This firm have done much to develop this truly gorgeous subject, and never fail to set up an exhibit that worthily maintains their position as one of the leading speciaUsts. The plants are flowering freely and are carrying blooms showing the highest cultural skill. A few of the better sorts in this collection are the following : Mrs. Maurice Pope (charming salmon rose). King George V. (rich salmon of the highest quality). Countess of Dart- mouth (cream, edged and flaked rose), Gladys Valentine (pale salmon), Hon. Mrs. Ronald Greville (a beautiful cream), Mrs. Andrew Tweedie (another excellent cream-coloured sort), Hon. Mrs. Maurice Glyn (apricot) and a superb rich salmon of a specially attractive kind named Duchess of Marlborough. Space prevents us mentioning more than a tithe of the good things in this exhibit. Messrs. Webb and Sons, Wordsley, Stourbridge, as usual, have made a charming display in Tent No. 3. Part of their exhibit comprises Begonias and Gloxinias, and they invariably set up their display in novel and pleasing fashion. This firm's strains of these two subjects are well known for their excellent quality, and they are beautifully exemplified in the exhibits made on the present occasion. Exhibitors generally might learn much from the novel methods of staging observed by this firm, in which the different subjects arc seen at their best. Messrs. James Carter and Co., Raynes Park, London, S.W., have set up Begonias in Tent No. 3, with many other interesting greenhouse plants. They represent a good strain, and are freely flowered. Supplement to XHE GARDEN, July 4, 1914. Begonias as shown by Mr. A. H. Cole, 326, Camberwell New Road, S.E., are a pleasing feature. Good, free-flowering kinds are shown, which, together with Ceinnas, make an attractive display. Mr.^A. Donnithorne, Ashburton, Devon, has made an exhibit in which Begonias play an impor- tant part. They are represented by an interesting series^of plants that show good culture. In No. I Tent an exhibit of Begonias from Mr. W. S. Edwardson, Elsdon, Sidcup, calls for special notice. As an initial effort this display is quite good. Good culture and an interesting series of varieties and types all contribute to make the display highly meritorious. The plants are very fresh and clean. Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Bush Hill Park, Enfield, Middlesex, have a beautiful table group of double and single flowered Begonias, in which the former very largely preponderate. The plants exhibit high cultural skill, and embrace colours that are charmingly diverse. A few of the better doubles are Sir Garnet (fine deep crimson), King George V., Lady Cromer, Snowdrop (chaste white), Hon. Mrs. M. Glyn (rich orange terra-cotta) and Margaret Gwillim (yellow). ORCHIDS. Messrs. Flory and Black, Slough, are showing an immense bank of highly coloured Orchids. Cattleyas form the leading feature of the group, but the gem of the exhibit is seen in the magnificent little batch of Disa Luna. About four dozen plants are shown, all in the picture of health. This, however, is the most easily grown variety of the genus. Messrs. Mansell and Hatcher, Rawdon, Leeds, are represented by a grand display of Laelio- Cattleya hybrids, Odontoglossum crispum (good white forms), Aerides odoratum, and some special Odontoglossum hybrids shown for the first time. Mr. C. F. Waters, Balcombe, Sussex, is showing Cattleyas and Brasso-Cattleyas in variety, with handsome overarching sprays of Odontoglossums in the background. Mr. Harry Dixon, Spencer's Park Nursery, Wandsworth Common, is showing various Odon- tiodas, pure white Cattleya Mossiae Wagneri, and a beautiful form of Odontioda Wilsonii, which is admired by all lovers of Orchids. Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Hayward's Heath, are showing a smaller group than usual, but the quality is quite up to their usual high standard of excellence. Sir Jeremiah Colman, Gatton Park, Reigate (gardener, Mr. Collier), sends a group magnificent in colouring and staged in a masterly way. Among the features of the group are Cattleyas gigas King Edward VII,, gaskelliana, and William Murray ; Lselio-Cattleyas canhamiana alba and Phoebe, Thunia winniana, also Odontiodas raised at Gatton Park, together with Miltonia hybrids, including an albino form. Messrs. Sander and Sons, St. Albans, have a group unsurpassed in the splendour of its Cattleyas, Miltonias, Dendrobium Dearei and others. On either side of the group are large banks of the magnificent Cattleya gigas sanderiana, shown in exceptionally good form. It is a real pleasure to see the intensely interesting group, in which Vandas and Thunias play an important part, shown by Lieutenant-Colonel Sir George Holford, Westonbirt, Tetbury, Gloucestershire. Large specimen plants of Cattleya gigas carry heavy trusses of magnificent flowers, and these, like all other specimen orchidaceous plants from Westonbirt, reflect the greatest credit upon Mr. Alexander, the well-known grower. Messrs. Stuart^Low and Co., Bush Hill Park, Enfield, Middlesex, have a gorgeous display, in which the orange-scarlet Renanthera imschootiana is used with delightful effect among the white spikes of Phalcenopsids and Odontoglossums. Messrs. E. H. Davidson and Co., Twyford, have a miscellaneous group worthy of special note. Among the novelties may be observed Cattleya Vulcan x C. aurea, Odontoglossum Aireworthi Orchid Dene variety and Odonto- glossum eximium. The Phalsenopsids with their drooping inflorescences of white flowers make an imposing display. SWEET PEAS. Holland House Show may fairly claim to be the forerunner of the open-air-grown Sweet Pea displays each season, for while various early provincial shows and also the great Chelsea exhibition are notable for their displays, these for the most part are made up largely with flowers from under glass. The HoUand House Show, however, sees the various specialists in strong force with outdoor-grown blooms, and on this occasion the exhibits are more numerous than usual, and, what is still more important, the quality is very iine. Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, make a feature of their black velvet shields backed by a grey screen, and the flowers are most artistically arranged in tubes and vases. A few of the most telling varieties are Barbara, King Manoel, Mrs. C. W. Breadmore, Rosabelle, Doris Usher, Margaret Atlee (a very fine cream pink) and Scarlet Emperor, Messrs. Dobbie and Co., Edinburgh, as usual, are in strong force, and without any artistic embellishments they make a marvellous display. The flowers are of very high quality, size and colour being most telling. Upon tall pillars Rosabelle, Lavender G. Herbert, Royal Purple, Thomas Stevenson, &c., are shown, these blooms being ordinary field - grown ; while, in vases are gorgeous examples of Margaret Atlee, Hercules, New Marquis, Red Star, Miss Ireland (a new cream Picotee), Frilled Pink, Dobbie's Orange, Lady Miller, Horatio (a fine dark blue), Dobbie's Cream and Alfred Watkins, After a lapse of several years Hobbies, Limited, Dereham, have blossomed forth as Sweet Pea specialists again, and they make an excellent dis- play of high-class blooms, A most striking feature is the new Mrs, Hugh Wormald, a most striking bicolor with a soft salmon standard and cream wings, the latter having quite a friUed appearance. It is quite one of the best breaks yet shown, and reminds us of a grandiflora seedling we saw some years ago, but which failed to survive, the nearest to it being Anglian Fairy, although the latter is much paler. Messrs. Hobbies' exhibit is made up with archways and pillars at the back, while the fore- ground is filled in with grandly staged vases. Hobbies' Cream, King Manoel, Moneymaker, Edna May, King White, Hobbies' Salmon, Mrs, C, W, Breadmore, Thomas Stevenson, Miss Knyvet (a soft rosy salmon) and Scarlet Emperor are a few other notable varieties. Another fine exhibit is that of Messrs, Alex, Dickson and Sons, Newtownards, Archways with hanging vases are a feature. Arranged upon tiers beneath are vases of aU the popular varieties and many new seedlings, including a most vivid orange scarlet, Margaret Atlee, Hilary Christie (a pretty orange bicolor), Melba, Hawlmark Rose, Illuminator, Blue Picotee, Melody and Orchid are a few other varieties that stand out pro- minently, Messrs, James Carter and Co,, Raynes Park, make an effective display, the stand being backed and covered by neutral grey material. Among the most telling varieties are Doris Usher, Mrs, Breadmore, Irish Belle, Lavender George Herbert, Red Star, Mrs, Cuthbertson, Charles Foster, Thomas Stevenson, Hercules, Rosabelle, King Manoel and Margaret Atlee, A very fine exhibit is set up by Mr, James Box, Lindfield, Edna May Improved and King Mauve are magnificent, while among others one notes Mrs, Gibbs Box, James Box, Hercules, Orange Perfection, Ella Box and Dobbie's Cream, the latter being remarkably deep in colour. Some moderately good flowers are set up by the Rev, C, C, Chahners Hunt, WiUian Rectory, Letchworth, Thomas Stevenson, Scarlet Emperor, Mrs, Cuthbertson and Mrs. Hardcastle Sykes are very fair examples, considering the flowers were grown quite naturally without any disbudding whatever, Messrs. G. Stark and Son, Ryburgh, set up quite a teUing group upon, the ground. Pillars break up the flatness while white trellis-work is used as a background. The flowers are merely field-grown, no disbudding being done, but they are, never- theless, very good, especially Lord Northchffe, King Manoel, Helen WilUams and its white form, Elsie Edwards (a cream-ground bicolor), Thomas Stevenson and Lady Miller, Messrs, J, K, King and Sons, Coggeshall, stage excellent blooms, but they are somewhat cramped for space. Among the many varieties shown we noted May Campbell, Mrs, Breadmore, Crimson King, Margaret Atlee, King Manoel and Charles Foster. The exhibit is divided in two portions, which makes it less effective than it would have been Messrs, E, W. King, and Co,, Coggeshall, set up an exhibit similar to that staged at York Gala, VIOLAS. Mr, Howard H, Crane, Woodview, Highgate, N., sets up a representative exhibit of Violas and Violettas and, considering the great heat of late, the blossoms are fresh and attractive. They are arranged in pans of wet sand, in which they keep very well. Excellent Violas are A. S. Frater (white, edged blue), Mrs. B. Eric Smith (a grand yellow), Lingii, May, Moseley Perfection (all good yellows). Swan (pure white), Cygnet (creamy white), Daisy J. Wright (splendid fancy). Royal Purple, Royal Blue, W, H, Woodgate and a host of other good things. The Violettas, so well adapted for the rock garden, are well shown, this grower having raised most of the recent acquisitions. Some that appeal to us are Estelle (minute white). Rock Blue, Rock Lemon, Rock Orange, Mollie, Purity, Violetta, Eileen, Queenie, Bluebird, Sweetness and Vestal. These are a few of the better of these dainty httle sweet-scented flowers. Violas, chiefly of the exhibition kinds, are well shown by Messrs. W. Seagrave and Co.. Sheffield, This firm invariably show well, and their blooms, being grown further North, appear to suffer less from the weather than those of their Southern rivals. A careful look through this and other Viola exhibits is proof conclusive that great strides have been made in the development of this subject in recent years. Supplement to THE GARDEN, July 4, 191 4. Mr. William Axkwright, Sutton Scarsdale, Chesterfield, has an exhibit of especial interest to lovers of the Viola. This gentleman has been working on definite lines in order to give the world something new and distinct in the way of colour, &c. We believe he hopes to get a good Viola of a crimson or kindred tone of colour, and his exhibit goes to prove the care he is taking in the development of this interesting subject. Violas, among other subjects, are shown by Messrs. Carter Page and Co., London Wall, E.C. The flowers are well growni and represent a number of the better kinds in general cultivation. As usual, Mr. John Forbes, Hawick, makes a display at the entrance to the show grounds. Among other hardy flowers, he shows a good list of Violas in well-known and interesting varieties. There are good selfs, fancy and edged sorts, and all combine to add materially to the value of this grower's display. TREES AND SHRUBS. Situated immediately to the left on entering the grounds is seen an extensive group of Japanese Maples shown by Messrs. W. Fromow and Son, Sutton Court Nurseries, Chiswick. The foliage is varied both in form and colour. The bronze- tinted Acer laciniatum purpureum, sanguineum and septcmlobum purpureum are greatly in evidence, also a fine basket of Acer versicolor, with small crimson and variegated leaves. From the Hon. Vicary Gibbs, Aldenham House, Elstree (gardener, Mr. E. Beckett), comes a rare and interesting collection of new Chinese plants, including Acer Henryi and Ailantus vilmoriniana. Very few of the shrubs are flowering, although Indigofera viciifolia and one or two unnamed Potentillas are notable exceptions. This collec- tion of little-known trees and shrubs makes a very imposing feature. Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond, is showing an interesting group of ornamental shrubs, with a LUy pool in the foreground. Among the shrubs will be noticed a great variety of standard and bush Ivies, Japanese Maples and the handsome Dimorphanthus mandshuricus foliis argentea variegata. Judging by the large collections of clipped Yews and Boxes, it would seem that there is a revival of interest taken in the so-called toparian art. The trees are shown clipped in all manner of fantastic, and in some instances grotesque, forms. Peacocks, balloons and spirals appear '.J be lavoured designs. Clipped Yews and Boxes are shown by various firms, including Messrs. Cutbush, Highgate ; Messrs. Piper of Bayswater ; and Messrs. Cheal of Crawley. Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, has a group of rare shrubs, comprising Rhododendrons, Crinoden- drons, Celmisias and a dwarf Beech from Antarctir regions. A very choice collection of shrubs is shown by the Donard Nursery Company, Newcastle, County Down. The new forms of Leptospermums, L. Boscawenii, L. Nichollii and L. Chapmannii, form the chief features of the group. There is also an interesting collection of Pittosporums, includ- irg eugenoides variegata, while Ozothamnus rf'smarinifolius is seen flowering with its accus- tomed freedom. Messrs. John Waterer, Sons and Crisp, Limited, Bagshot, Surrey, are showing a variety of late Rhododendrons, also a grand display of Kalmia latifolia interspersed with standard Maples. Messrs. Jackman, Woking, are showing Clematises in great variety. Some of the older varieties stiU hold their own, although there are delightful art shades among the newer sorts. FRUIT AND VEGETABLES. From Messrs. Ware, Feltham, comes a collection of pot fruit trees well laden with their luscious and highly coloured fruits, which look uncommonly tempting. Plums, Peaches, Nectarines and Figs are all included, there being a representative collection of each. Messrs. Bucks, Tresco, Ipswich, once again demonstrate the wonderful fruiting qualities of their Tresco Tomato, which is undoubtedly pro- lific and one of the most interesting things in the show. Messrs. Bunyard and Co., Maidstone, are showing fruit trees in pots, which reflect the highest credit upon the cultivation given them. Roses and herbaceous flowers are alike well shown by this well-known firm. Pot fruit trees are shown by Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, Chelsea, in the high standard of excel- lence that we have long learnt to associate with this firm. Peaches in standard fan-shaped trees. Plums as espalier and Apples as bush trees are all to be seen in the height of perfection and carrying heavy crops. Peaches Early Alfred, Peregrine, Hale's Early and Duke of York ; Nectarines Early Rivers, Cardinal and Lord Napier ; Plums Jefferson, Dennison's Superb, Oullin's Golden ; Apples Lady Sudeley and James Grieve are chief among the varieties sho\yn. The Cherry trees in pots shown by Messrs. T. Rivers and Son, Sawbridgeworth, are worthy of special note by virtue of the heavy crops they carry. Black Tartarian, Frogmore Bigarreau and Bigarreau de Schreken are truly superb. Lady Sudeley Apple, handsomely coloured, is used with good effect in the foreground, while among the Peaches the crimson variety Peregrine is exceptionally fine. The collection of vegetables shown by the Hon. Vicary Gibbs, Aldenham House, Elstree, reflects great credit upon Mr. E. Beckett, the able gardener. Backed by Globe Artichokes, Turnip-rooted Beet and Cauliflowers, there are exceptionally fine dishes of Peas Duke of Albany and Centenary (specially good). Beet Sutton's Globe, Carrots Favourite and New Red Intermediate, Vegetable Marrows Table Dainty, Moore's Cream and Per- fection, Potatoes May Queen, King Edward and Gladiator, Tomatoes Perfection and Peach Blow. Messrs. Laxton Brothers, Bedford, have a superb collection of Strawberries, all of large but even size. Among the pick of the varieties'are Progress, The Bedford (very sweet and of Pineapple flavour). Reward, The Laxton and Givon's Late Prolific. SUNDRIES. The Chase Continuous Cloche Company, 11, Queen Victoria Street, E.C, are in full evidence, and if only a very small percentage of sunbeams are caught on this occasion, the temperature maintained by this system would be quite sufficient to cultivate even the tenderest tropical plants. Visitors show a decided preference for Messrs. Castle's of Milbank, S.W., stand, where it is possible to rest and enjoy the ease and comfort provided by their most durable garden seats. Other suitable garden furniture of every descrip- tion is on view. Judging from the prevalence and devastations of the various insect pests in the garden during the present year, there should be a great demand for insecticides of every description, and the stand displayed by Messrs. William Cooper and Nephews should prove of great assistance to amateurs visiting the show. "Dryad" Cane Furniture suitable both for indoor and outdoor use is shown in great variety and in the most artistic and useful forms by the Dryad Works, St. Nicholas Street, Leicester. The Folding Span Lights, which are arranged to show the utility of this invention as a means of raising early crops and protecting others, are shown to their best advantage by the Folding Span Light Company, Slough. Spraying machines of the latest ' pattern and design which include all the improvements which modern science and practice can suggest, combined with garden syringes, sprinklers, pumps, &c., are prominently displayed by the Four Oaks Company, Sutton Coldfield, Birmingham. The French Cloche Company, Caxton HoLse Westminster, S.W., have a good selection of cloches, frames, and all other French garden requisites on view which are suitable for all gardens, from the smallest to the largest. Messrs. Jeyes, Limited, Cannon Street, E.C, have also a selection of their weU-known horti- cultural speciaUties on view, which have been proved most serviceable to all garden-lovers. Messrs. Hartgen, 35, Noble Street, E.C, have a good selection of Holder sprayers on view, in various shapes and sizes, which can be adapted to all requirements for both large and small gardens. Capturing the slug by means of the special slug trap designed by Mr. Vernon T. Hill, Mendip, offers great opportunities both to amateurs and others who suffer from the ravages of this pest. Teakwood garden furniture, manufactured from battleships by Messrs. Hughes, Bolckow and Co., Limited, 10, Dover Street, W., and Blyth, is shown in various'designs, including seats, tables, chairs, arches, &c. A most interesting exhibit is that of Mr. H. Jones, Horscombe, Bath, who shows a good variety of designs in stone vases, balustrades and garden seats. Messrs. Robinson Brothers, Limited, West Bromwich, have an ancient castle well fortified and equipped with weapons and ammunition which can be adapted by both amateur and professional horticulturists for the destruction of all insect and fungoid pests, and by the most dainty plant foods obtainable they are prepared to coax the best possible results even from plants which are most fastidious in taste. To thosej^who have an inchnation to indulge in rock and flower gardening, Messrs. Thomson and Charman, 11, Adam Street, Adelphi, are prepared to render every possible assistance with plans and advice. The falling off of horse traction and the increased number of motors has raised the question of less manure for the garden. To some this may be a serious one, but Messrs. Wakeley Brothers, Honduras Wharf, Bankside, S.E., are doing their level best to make up for the deficiency. Their patent Hop Manure is certainly the best substitute for stable manure at the present time, and is a most valuable plant food for both town and country. *, Owing to the demand on out space we are compelled to hold over until next week parlicvtars of a number of exhibits at Holland House. For the same reason reports of the Sherborne Floral File and the Isle of Wight Rose Show are also deferred. TULY 4, I9I4.] THE HELIANTHEMUMS OR SUN ROSES. DURING June and July the various kinds of Heliantliemums or Sun Roses are among the most beautiful plants in the rock garden, while they are also effective on dry banks and walls. Even outside the garden the common kind may often be found making very beautiful pictures, for it is wild in many parts of the country, and often forms, with short grass, the principal vegetation upon poor, thin soil over- lying rocks on hill and mountain sides. In such places the rich golden flowers besprinkle the grass in much the same manner that the Buttercup does in moist meadows. Under cultivation the common H. vulgare has undergone a con- siderable change, for not only does it appear as a taller and more compact plant than is usual in a state of Nature, but the colour of the flowers has changed to a re- markable extent ; and whereas it is rare to find any other colour than the orthodox gold among wild plants, we find that under cultiva- tion there are kinds with white, cream, pink, red, and copper coloured flowers. Some of these kinds are selected forms which have sported from the type, and others are hybrids between H. vulgare and closely allied British and Con- tinental species. It is, however, easy to find how soon a selection of varieties may be procured if seeds are taken from a mixed col- lection and sown. Not only will there be a wide range of colou) among the seedlings, but the strength of the plants will also show great variation. This also indicates how difiicult it is to propagate and keep true even the most dis- tinct forms from seeds ; therefon; cuttings must be relied upon not only for the increase of the garden hybrids and varieties, but also for closely allied species when the plants are growing in close prox- imity and the flowers are easily cross-fertilised by insects. Cuttings of short shoots taken during June or July, dibbled into pots of sandy soil and placed in a close frame, root quite well, and at the end of the first year form nice plants for permanent posi- tions. They must, however, be kept in pots until they can be placed out permanently, for they transplant with difficulty. Moreover, small plants are preferable to large ones for positions where the soil is scarce, such as crevices between rocks in the rockery, or niches in loosely built walls. An annual cutting over as soon as the flowers fade is attended by good results, for the untidy dead flower-stalks are thus removed and more room is made for young shoots. Helianthemums are often rather short-lived ; therefore it is wise to destroy old plants which show signs of declining health, and commence again with good stock. Among the many kinds which may be procured. THE GARDEN. the following species and varieties wil! be found desirable : H. vulgare and H. glaucum are closely allied plants, the latter differing from the former mainly in its greyish leaves ; another plant which also has grey leaves, and is sometimes classed as a variety of H. vulgare and sometimes as a distinct species, being H. croceum. They hybridise very freely, and the many garden forms which are usually attributed to the common Sun Rose may with equal rights in many instances be classed with one or other of the other species. Good forms for general planting are album, with single white flowers, and album plenum, with double white blossoms ; carminatum has red flowers and it also offers a double-flowered form ; Fireball has bright red, semi-double flowers ; cupreum 343 H. umbellatum is a rather stiff, upright-habited bush from Southern Europe. It grows from 9 inches to 18 inches high and is recognised by its small, Rosemary-like leaves and upright racemes of white flowers. There is also a distinct group of Sun Roses composed of a few species, the best-known one of which is H. formosum. A native of Portugal, it forms a spreading bush 2 feet or more high, with greyish leaves and yellow flowers ij inches across, which are peculiar by reason of the brownish blotch found at the base of each petal. It is quite hardy and an excellent kind to plant where it can be allowed plenty of room. Others of the same set and plants of rather similar habit are H. alyssoides, H. halimi- folium and H. ocymoides. The first named has yellow, unblotched blossoms ; while the other two have their golden flowers marked with brown. All four plants must be given a simny position in order that the wood may become thoroughly ripened. They are sometimes mistaken for the allied genus Cistus, but are recognised as Helianthemums by the three- celled ovary. WHITE SUN ROSES ON A RETAINING WALL has copper-coloured blossoms ; while Magenta Queen has magenta blooms ; Rose Queen, rose ; roseum, rose ; flore pleno, double yellow ; venustum, scarlet ; and rubens, ■ orange-coloured flowers respectively. H. polifolium is a distinct species, which is of looser habit and a taller plant than H. vulgare. Its leaves are greyish and rather narrow, while its flowers may be pink or white. Rhodanthum, a red-flowered plant, is sometimes claimed to be a variety of this. H. alpestre and H. vineale are a couple of choice little plants, rather more tender than the commoner species. They should be given a sunny position on the rockery, where they will form pretty little tufts a few inches high and bear their bright yellow blossoms with great freedom. CALCEOLARIA GOLDEN GLOW. The cultivation of the few known hardy Calceolarias has received an impetus since the production of the fine hybrid raised by Messrs. Veitch of Exeter called Golden Glow, and which is now fairly well known in the best gardens. It may be considered as generally hardy, and is one of the most ornamental flowers of its class in summer. One finds, however, that the species called polyrhiza is not too much cultivated, although by no means a rarity, and possessing a constitu- tion of undoubted hardiness throughout at least the greater part of the British Isles. Its creeping growth renders it excellent for rapidly covering a good-sized space, where its neat leaves and quaint yellow flowers make a pleasing display. It is not generally known that there are at least two forms of this Calceolaria ; and as it is a plant which is widely distributed in its native home — Chili — there are probably others yet to come under our notice. At present, however, we have two— one with considerably smaller flowers than the other, and also of lower stature and less vigorous in the growth of its leaves. As for their cultivation, these two forms of C. polyrhiza are very accommodating. Some recommend bog treatment, and they certainly thrive under such conditions, but tfiey will also do %vell in a soil of a dry nature with plenty of stones among it. while I have never seen the larger form finer than in ordi- nary soil in a nursery border. This fine hardy Calceolaria is a gem for the rock garden, especially in places where it can be allowed to spread into generous masses, where its golden flowers will look so well in the light of a midsummer day. Dumfries. S. Arnott. 344 THE GARDEN. [July 4, 1914. THE BEST CACTI FOR THE GREENHOUSE. A S stated by a writer in a recent number of /\ The Garden, it is a matter for sur- / % prise that one does not see more frequent / % mention of the different members of -* *- the Cacti family, as they have so many claims to recognition. The quaint and uncommon appearance of many of them constitutes one noteworthy feature ; then, we have a great many whose ribs and spines are disposed with quite mathematical precision. Next, the blossoms of many of them are remarkably shovfy ; and lastly, being so accustomed in a state of Nature to long periods of drought, one may take one's summer holiday without any danger of these succulents suffering from drought in the care that they are well drained. A suitable compost will consist mainly of loam, lightened by a little broken brick rubble and sand. They may be watered moderately during the summer, provided always that the dramage is perfect ; but in the winter very little water will be required. Flowering Cacti. — A vast number may be included under this head, the blossoms of so many of them being very remarkable ; but the term is more generally applied to the different forms of Cereus and Phyllocacti, whose blossoms are in many cases really gorgeous. These are more of a shrub-like nature, for the flattened branches attain a considerable size. It has often been a matter of surprise to me that the different Phyllocacti (the garden forms of which are almost innumerable) should not be more grown, for, though it may be urged against them that the blossoms do not long remain, yet in the case of P^ONIA LOBATA, A BEAUTIFUL SPECIES WITH TULIP-SHAPED FLOWERS. meantime. It is, I know full well, often a source ■of worry to the owners of greenhouses to arrange for the plants being attended to during their absence from home, and the arrangements made •do not always turn out satisfactory. With plants so indifferent to drought as cactaceous plants in general, the results are very different. Another purpose to which they may be put is for growing in a sunny window, under which conditions they are just at home. Miniature Cacti. — These are a source of interest to many, and, as quite a representative collection may be kept in a limited space, a considerable number may be grown in a window. As sold the plants are in small ornamental pots, and they will keep in health therein for a very long time without being disturbed at the roots. In order to grow them on, however, thCy will in time need to be shifted into larger pots, taking good healthy examples a succession is kept up for some time, and withal the plants are of easy culture. Cacti of this class do not withstand drought like those of a more globular shape ; indeed, during the growing season the plants require to be moderately watered. The flowers of many of these Phyllocacti are quite startling in their tones of colour and the contrasts which occur in the same bloom. In some flowers the main portion of the bloom is of an orange, orange salmon or scarlet shade, shot in the centre with vivid tints of violet, blue or purple. These features, which cause a flower to appear of a different colour, according to the standpoint from which it is viewed, are in some cases quite startling. There are also many other coloured varieties, some of the pinks being very pleasing. Quite a small pink-flowered kind, whose blossoms are borne in great profusion, is Phyllocactus phyllanthoides German Empress, while the large creamy white blossoms of Cooperi afford a pleasing variety in colour. Complaints are by no means infrequent that these Phyllocacti do not flower so freely as they ought to do, and when this is the case it is often caused by not exposing the plants suffi- ciently to the full sunshine. Of course, they may be shaded when in bloom, as the flowers then last longer ; but at other times they should have the benefit of all the simshine available. Should the plants need repotting, it is best carried out directly the blossoms are over. A mixture of two-thirds loam to one-third leaf-mould, brick rubble and sand will suit all the Phyllocacti. They are readily struck from portions of the branches taken during the early summer months, inserted into pots of sandy soil and placed on a sunny shelf. Care must be taken not to overwater. Those two very nearly allied forms of Epiphyllum, namely, E. Gsertneri and E. makoyanum, that bloom in the spring and early summer months, claim recognition. They differ from the well-known E. truncatum both in their season of blooming and in the shape of their red blossoms, which are regular in appearance and suggest a small kind of Cereus. The style of growth is just like that of E. truncatum. Many species of Cereus take up a considerable amount of room, but one species — Cereus flagelliformis, known popularly as the Rat's-tail Cactus- — is a delightful basket plant. When suspended, the long, round shoots hang down for a considerable distance, and in the summer, when its bright rose-coloured blossoms are at their best, it forms a delight- ful feature. The Night-flowering Cacti, of which Cereus grandiflorus is one of the best known, need a large structure and a fair amount of heat for their successful culture. Of smaller- growing Cacti re- markable for their quaint shapes, peculiarly arranged spines and pretty flowers may be mentioned the various forms of Echinocactus, Echinocereus, Echinopsis and Mam- millaria. Apart from the Cacti proper, various other succulents, such as some members of the genus Agave, Aloe, Crassula, Echeveria, Gasteria, Haworthia and Mesembryanthemum, are well worthy of association with them. H. P. P^ONIA LOBATA. So much attention has been paid in recent years to garden varieties of the Paeony that there is a tendency to overlook this beautiful species. Pffionia lobata is a charming plant with glorious coral pink flowers and clusters of golden anthers. The flowers are Tulip-shaped, and distinct from garden varieties in both colour and form. It has this year been admirably shown at Vincent Square by Mr. James Box of Hayward's Heath, who gained for it a certificate of merit from the National Hardy Plant Society. It is not a new plant, although seldom seen, and it is not every year that it flowers with the freedom experienced this season. July 4, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 345 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS HOW TO BUD ROSES. I. A BUD REMOVED AND PREPARED FOR INSERTION. OF the several methods em- ployed in the propagation of the Rose, budding is the most important and extensively practised. Out- doors the best time to bud Roses is the second half of July and during August. While many amateur Rose-growers prefer to purchase vigorous young plants from a nursery, there are others who take a delight in propagating some at least of their own Rose trees. There are several kinds of " stocks " employed for budding — the Dog Rose (Rosa canina) of our hedgerows in three forms, the standard, seedling Briar, and Briar cuttings. The Manetti stock, which was originally obtained from Italy, is propagated by cuttings ; so also is the De la Grifferae stock. The Japanese Rosa rugosa is also used both as a standard and dwarf stock, being readily raised from seeds and cuttings. Standard Roses.— The standard Rose stocks are mostly obtained from the hedgerows in the autumn and early winter. Planted in the garden, they will be ready to bud towards the end of the following summer. The height of the standard varies according to the size and strength of the Briars and the requirements of the grower. They, as a rule, vary from 2 feet (half-standards) to 4 feet in height for Hybrid Per- petuals and Hybrid Teas, while for the lovely weeping standards of the wichuraiana type stocks 6 feet to 10 feet high are most useful when they can be procured. The stocks should be cut off at the required height previous to planting, which should be done before Christmas. In spring a goodly number of shoots may be expected to push out from the Briar stems. About four of those nearest the top should be retained, the remainder being rubbed off with the thumb and finger as soon as they show. A sharp knife is a necessity for budding, and plenty of raffia, cut into lengths of 12 inches to 15 inches, should be kept close at hand, fastened to the waist. The best buds, as a rule, are those on shoots which are flowering or have just recently flowered. Such a shoot is sho\vn in Fig. i. Select plump buds which show no signs of growing. Cut off the leaves as illustrated, leaving about an inch of the leaf-stalk. The next operation is to slice off the bud, starting with the knife half an inch above the bud. Make a downward cut and finish off half an inch below the bud. In Fig. i a bud is shown removed ready for insertion, with the cut surface exposed on the shoot from which it has been removed. Remove carefully with the point of the knife the small piece of wood at the back of the bud, so that only the bud and a shell of bark remain. Preparing the Stocks.— Should dry weather prevail, ample water ought to be given the stocks some days before the budding operations are to commence ; this will make the bark run much easier. To commence on the stock, cut away 3- A STANDARD ROSE TEN MONTHS API ER BUDDING. 2. TYING IN THE BUD ON A STANDARD BRIAR STOCK. all thorns near where tlie bud is to be in- serted. This should be at the base or as near the base of the young shoot as con- venient. One and a half inches to 2 inches from the base make a cross-cut through the bark about half an inch long, then a longitudinal cut from the cross-cut I inch long in the direction of the base of the shoot. Next, take one of the prepared buds, carefully lift the bark at the cross- cut, and slide in the bud, holding it by the piece of leaf-stalk. The bud should now be tied in firmly with raffia, as illus- trated in Fig. 2. If there are three or four suitable shoots, they should be budded, as there is always the possibility of failure, especially if the operator is inexperienced, while, if four buds take, it will be quite easy to remove the weaker. In about four weeks examine the raffia, when, if the bud has taken, the raffia should be loosened and tied more loosely. Some controversy exists over the right time to shorten the growths which are budded. A section of growers cut off the ends of the shoots when pre- paring the wood for budding, but ex- perience points to it being better to defer all the cutting until late autumn, say, about November, the Briars then being cut back to within 3 inches or a little more of the bud. Having been successful with the budding, the most important matter is to tie the young growths securely to thin stakes. Fig. 3 depicts the top of a stan- dard Briar photographed at the end of May, ten months from budding. O. A. 346 THE GARDEN. [July 4, 1914. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. Winter Tomatoes. — A sowing of some free- setting variety sfioiild be made at once in order to secure a supply of ripe Tomatoes in tfie winter. Sow the seeds thinly in pots or pans and place in gentle heat until the young plants are well through the surface, after which they should be raised to within a few inches of the roof glass, so that they may not become drawn. Pot into 3-inch pots as soon as large enough, and again into 6-inch pots as soon as ready. When the final potting takes place, the soil may consist of two-thirds turfy loam and the remainder of leaf-soil with a good sprinkling of bone-meal. Early Vines. — Now that the Grapes have been cut, the Vines should be syringed daily during hot weather. The lateral growth may be allowed to run, but not to become overcrowded. Examine the border, and, if necessary, give a good soaking of liquid manure from the farmyard. Peach Trees. — Early Peach trees from which the fruits have been gathered should be carefully thinned out. Remove all wood which is not required for next season's crop. If this work is carefully accomplished now, the wood which is left will receive the full benefit of the sun to prepare it for another year, and winter pruning will be a very simple matter. Keep the shoots tied into position, and syringe freely during the remainder of the season to keep the trees quite free from insects. If the borders are well drained, a liberal supply of water should be given at the roots, previous to which a sprinkling of artificial manure may be applied with advantage. Plants Under Glass. Malmaison Carnations. — Now is the time to propagate these favourite flowers by layering. The best method is to set a cold pit apart for the purpose. Let the pit be filled to within 15 inches of the glass with good sandy soil, and select clean, healthv plants from which to propagate the future stock. ' These old plants should be carefully turned out of the pots and planted in the new soil, spreading the growths evenly over the surface, so that when the work is finished the pit may be full of clean, healthy shoots. Use a very sharp knife and cut through a joint on the imder side of the shoot. Cover with sandy soil and peg oarefully down, making the soil moderately firm. Keep the pit closed for ten days and protect from sun. The foliage should be damped frequently with clear soft water. When growth commences, ventilate the pit to keep the young plants from becoming drawn. Mignonette. — A sowing of some good variety for pot culture may be made now to furnish plants for late autumn flowering. If sown in 6-inch pots and placed in a cold frame until the seedlings are ready to thin, they will make useful plants by the beginning of November. Five or six plants will be sufficient for each pot. Herbaceous Calceolarias may be sown now and placed in a cold frame or under a hand-light behind a north wall. The soil should be thoroughly moistened before the seeds are sown, and only a light covering of the seeds is necessary. The Flower Garden. Hollyhocks. — The plants will benefit by frequent waterings of liquid manure. Old plants with several spikes should be secured to a central stake, or the wind may soon ruin them. If dry weather sets in, a mulching of some kind should be placed over the roots, horse-manure for preference. Lilies which are throwing up their flower-stems should also be supported with stakes, and water must be freely given for the remainder of the season. Flower-Beds. — ^The plants are making rapid progress, and a weekly inspection of them will be necessary in order to keep them within bounds. This applies to carpet bedding plants more par- ticularly, as if left for a longer period they present an over-trimmed appearance when the work has been finished. Keep the grass trimmed round the edges of the beds, and pass the lawn- mower over the grass at intervals of a few days. The Rock Garden. Early Flowering Plants. — Many of these will have formed seed-pods, and these should be secured before the seeds drop. Seeds which are to be sown in spring may be placed in small paper bags and kept in a dry room until the time arrives for sowing. Primulas, many of which are excellent subjects for sunny positions in the rock garden, should be planted well above the level of the surrounding soil, as they are liable to suffer from damp during the winter. Primula seeds should be sown directly they are ripe. Sow thinly in pans of sandy soil, and place in a cold frame until the seeds germinate. Pot into small pots as soon as large enough and protect from strong sun. Established plants may be divested of all decaying foliage, and the soil lightly stirred between the plants previous to top-dressing with light, sandy soil. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Strawberries. — No time should be lost in securing a sufficient number of healthy layers to make the early plantation for next season. Royal Sovereign is still one of the very best Straw- berries for early or midseason supplies, and if healthy layers are placed in small pots now, they should be ready for planting about the middle of August. The border for this purpose should be trenched 2 feet deep, and a dressing of decayed farmyard manure mixed with the soil as the work proceeds. When the soil has become settled and the plants are ready, they may be carefully planted in rows 2 feet apart and 15 inches from plant to plant in the rows. Make firm and see that they receive sufficient moisture at the roots. Peaches and Nectarines. — The final thinning of the fruits should take place at once. Trees in this district are carrying a heavy crop, and unless they receive attention at once, the quality of the crop will suffer In consequence. The Kitchen Garden. Lettuce. — a sowing of Lettuce seed may be made at intervals of ten days from now to the end of August. The situation should be shaded during the warmest part of the day. A border facing east will be a suitable place for them. Endive may be sown now for use during the autumn, and a fortnight later for early winter supplies. Celery. — The maincrop Celery should be planted without delay, watering the plants thoroughly as soon as thev are placed in position. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Shallots. — In many cases these will have com- pleted their growth and be ready for lifting ; this, of course, must be determined by their appearance. Those that are ready should be puUed up and placed in a sunny position to ripen, turning them frequently so that every part will be exposed to the sun. Should, however, the weather he wet, they had better be put under glass in a cold frame. Winter Onions. — These ought now to be ready for har\'esting, and, should the weather be fine, no time must be lost in taking them up. It will scarcely be necessary to string these up as is done in the autumn, but at the same time they should be spread out in an open position, well exposed to the sun. Tomatoes. — Those that were planted out some time ago against a south wall will now be making rapid growth, and, as the idea should be to ripen the fruit as early as possible, the plants ought to be restricted to one stem and have the point pinched out when a sufficient number of fruits have set. Should a supply of water not be at hand, the plants had better have a mulch of farmyard manure, which will assist the fruit to swell and preserve the moisture in the soil. The Flower Garden. Carnations. — Many of the earlier - flowering varieties are now coming into flower, and it is advisable to reduce the number of buds, particu- larly the larger-flowered sorts. Varieties of the King Arthur and Duchess of Rothesay type can be more severely dealt with, while the smaller- flowered sorts had better be allowed to grow naturally. Those plants that had the flower- spikes removed to al|low the plant to make grass for layering will soon be readv. and no time should be lost in getting this work done. It is, however, too early to layer the main batch. Violets. — Runners must be removed as they appear, so that all the energies of the plant may go to building up the crown. A dusting of soot from time to time will greatly assist in keeping down red spider, and if this is applied while the foliage is damp it will be more effectual. Thinning Annuals. — It will be as well to go over the various annuals and give them a final thinning. These thinnings, I find, make a grand display later in the season if planted in bold clumps or used for filling up vacant spots in the herbaceous borders. Previous to planting, dip the roots in a prepared puddle, and supply them with water until they take a hold. Plants Under Glass. Hydrangeas. — The present is a suitable time to secure cuttings of this useful greenhouse plant. If space permitted, it would be as well to place the cuttings in the propagating- pit to encourage quick rooting. Where specimens are required, pot on the strongest of the young plants now passing out of flower ; these should be cut back and brought on slowly. Fibrous-rooted Begonias. — All this type will now require potting on — at least, as soon as the roots appear at the sides of the pots. After potting, keep them in a fairly hot house, and pick off the flowers as they appear. Many recom- mend pinching the points out of the young plants of Gloire de Lorraine ; this, however, I think, is a mistake, as the plants seem to make far finer specimens if allowed to grow naturally. Mignonette in Pots. — In the colder districts Mignonette might be sown in pots now to flower in the early spring. To ensure that the yoimg plants do not receive a check, it will be as well to sow in small pots, two or three seeds in each, and afterwards reduce the seedlings to one. It must, however, be understood that Mignonette will not stand coddling in any shape or form. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Wall Trees. — All wall trees will now be greatly- benefited by liberal suppHes of water at the roots, especially those on walls that have a projecting coping, as on such walls the trees are practically deprived of any moisture that may be falling. Where it is at all possible, the trees should be syringed late in the afternoon on fine days ; this will be found (o be very refreshing, and also tend to keep the foliage free from red spider. If summer pruning has not been commenced, no time should be lost in seeing to this very necessary operation. Loganberries. — At the present moment these are throwing up a mass of yoimg growths, which, if not thinned out, will seriously interfere with the swelling of the fruit and the proper ripening of the canes intended for next year's crop. Select a few of the strongest canes and tie them up loosely to the wires, and the remaining shoots should be cut clean away. Afterwards give the ground a good dressing of farmyard manure. Fruits Under Glass. Strawberries. — To secure well-ripened crowr.s for early forcing in the spring, a start should at once be made in securing suitable runners, and these ought to be taken from young fruiting plants. Place these in 3-inch pots filled with good loam, and stand them closely together to facilitate the work of watering. On no account allow tlie young plants to become dry at the roots, and pot them into their fruiting pots before they root through into the ground. Late Vines. — The thinning of Grapes intended to be kept well into the spring should be carefully attended to ; the centre of the bunch especially should be looked over several times and thinned out, as it is here that the Grapes suffer most from damping. Keep all laterals well pinched ; at the same time allow a suflicient covering of the foliage to protect the bunches. As Lady Downe's is very subject to scalding, great care must be exercised in ventilating that house, particularly in the morning. John Highgate. (Head-gardener to the .Marquis of Linlithgow.) Hofieloun Gardens, South Queensferry. N.B. . July 4, 1914.J THE GARDEN, IM7 AFFINITIES IN RELATION TO POLLINATION OF FRUIT TREES. ONE often hears of a tree flowering i most profusely that seldom bears I a crop of fruit, and, on going deeper ' into the subject, it is apparent that the tree is self-sterile. Not far from Hereford a large Pear tree [flowered well every season, but had no fruit on it for over six years. When, a few years ago, I advised the owner to tie a rabbit's skin to a pole, brushing it lightly over another variety of Pear, then gently touching the blooms of this fruitless tree, he carried out my instructions, and during the past two seasons, and owing to this process, he has ■obtained a bountiful crop, so prolific that it has induced a fruiterer from Hereford to run a dray ■sixteen miles to secure the fruit and pay the best price for it. Here one can see at a glance the value ■of planting an affinity near this tree, as it is evident this variety requires pollination distinctive. The varieties on observation for use in setting are Fertility, Comte de Lamy, Josephine de Malines, Glou Morpeau and Louise Bonne de Jersey, these varieties being potent factors, and appear to pollinate the several other varieties surrounding them. The Apple family is also, in most varieties, self-sterile, and in many orchards, especially where one variety has been planted in a block, pro- nounced sterile tendencies are shown. Therefore, to avoid this, one should plant those varieties we know on observation to be affinities. Recently I saw a glaring case of varieties being in proximity which proved a pollinator perfect, viz.. Cox's Orange Pippin and Peasgood's Nonsuch, surrounded by several Warner's King, and in each case there was a splendid set of fruit ; the same two varieties in the same orchard, but a considerable distance from the first-named, surrounded by Cox's Pomona, had scarcely a fruit on them. This proves con- clusively that the variety Warner's King is the potent factor in the production. Within a few miles of Hereford there are some fine specimens of Blenheim Orange Apple trees, probably fifty years old, and until fourteen years ago a good crop was given, but latterly the return has been very small, and on information I found that a fine old specimen Crab (Pyrus Malus) had been uprooted by the elements, and since then the crop had always been scarce. Here we see the value of an indigenous variety to assist pollination, and a real asset, to my thinking, as no doubt the loss of the Crab Apple proved the reason of the failure ; and one will have noticed that wherever the Crab Apple is in proximity to any variety of the Apple, so sure is there to be a crop. Potent factors on observation appear to be Warner's King, Bramley's Seedling, Lord Derby, Worcester Pearmain and Bismarck ; these un- doubtedly would prove satisfactory if intermixed with every good variety in the proportion of about one to eight. Plums are exactly in the same category. In many orchards or plantations one will find sterile varieties, and the remedy is to graft or intermix with affinities. On close study one will find these in Monarch, Czar, Victoria and Prolific. These are sure fertilisers for most of the remaining varieties, but I advise, in the arrange- ment of the plantation, to plant in the proportion of one to six. I have several times advised planting Prolific near the varieties of the Gage family. and in most cases have to record aa unqualified success. In any case, never plant a block or quarter of any one variety unless intermingled with some of the sorts previously named, and it would also be wise never to plant any one sort, even if known to be self-fertile, as each and all are much more profitable if pollinated distinctively. Now, a word as to the remedy in making these old trees fruitful in some of the old orchards. My advice is to head two branches on every fourth tree, one on the west, the other on the east side of the tree, and graft these with Warner's King and Bramley's Seedling — these two varieties have pronounced fertile properties — unless there are vacancies to plant young stocks of these varieties. But the grafting process is the quickest way to obtain maturity. The pollen grains, no doubt, are carried, in a great measure, by the breezes, although I am convinced that insects have been in a large measure a great factor in bringing pollination to a successful issue. At the same time, I know of trees in orchards five to six miles from the nearest beehive, and yet an abundant crop has been taken from these trees in most seasons, and I contend it would be impossible in a mature orchard, say of ten acres, and trees in age varying from fifty to eighty years, for any insect to visit the entire crop of flowers, or even a small proportion of them, especially as experienced this season. Therefore, the zephyrs have the primary work to do, and it is a matter of serious consideration and interest to cultivators of hardy fruit to study these simple matters daily, and employ methods more encouraging than hitherto, as, commercially, the prospects are good and the demand great. George J. Lovelock. THE EDITOR'S TABLE. Buddleia Colvillei from Exeter.— Messrs. R. Veitch and Sons of the Royal Nurseries, Exeter, s^jnd sprays of this handsome shrub, also photo- graphs showing the size of the specimen growing in their nurseries. Unfortunately, these were not suitable for reproduction. The flowers of this Buddleia are a sort of brick red in colour, and are produced in large, somewhat loose, pendulous panicles. It is a pity that their scent is not quite what we can term pleasing. Messrs. Veitch write as follows : " We are sending you^ herewith sprays of Buddleia Colvillei. The tree, of which we enclose photographs, was planted out in 1 901, and now stands r6 feet in height, with a spread of 21 feet and carrying about three hundred trusses of its large pink blooms. It has never shown the slightest injury by frost, though one season we registered 21°." EDITORIAL NOTICES. Every department of horticulture is represented in Thb Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions relating to matters upon which they wish expert advice. The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes, hut he will not he responsible for their safe return. All reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted contributions. As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated. It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo- grapher or owner of the copyright iviU be treated with. The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an article is accepted. Publication in The Garden loiU alone be recognised as acceptance. O^ces : 20, Tamstoc/c Street, Covent Garden, W.C. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. QUESTIONS AND AfiSVIERS.— The Editor endeavours to make The Oardkn helpful to all readers who desire assint- ance, no matter what the branch of gardenin;/ may be, and with thai, object makes a special feature of the "Answers to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address of the sender are required m addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the jjaper. Wfien more than one. query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of papm. Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely packed' in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering slioots, where possible, should be sent. It ts useless to send small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters on business should be sent to the Publisher, FLOWER GARDEN. P;E0NIES not flowering (W. D.).—The most probable cause of the non-flowerinf; of the Paeonies is th( dry spring of 1913, which, militatin*; against good growth, also prevented the formation of flowering crowns. All you can do now is to supply the plants liberally witli water and liquid manure, though it would have been better had it been started two months ago. As the plants are healthy, they appear to be lacking in vigour. TREATMENT FOR AQUATICS (SagiUaria). — lou had better allow the water to trickle continuously into your Kymphfea tubs, or at any rate for several houri' each day. Goldfish may be placed in the tubs if you like, but they will not be likely to keep the water clean A constant supply of fresh water is what is most needed The tubs should be cleaned out and the Water Lilies' planted in new soil each year. March is a good time for the work. Be careful to remove decaying leaves and flowers regularly through the summer. A SEEDLING VIOLA (R. W. D.).—Tho colour of your seedling Viola is very charming, and until quite recently there were no varieties in commerce equal to its beautiful light blue tone of colour. Two years ago, however, a rayless variety named W. H. Woodgate was introduced, and the blue colouring in this variety is practically identical with that of your seedling. The lines radiating from the centre of the bloom of your variety, in our opinion detract from its value, and that is why we have a distinct preference for the variety we have named. A RHODODENDRON FOR THE ROCK GARDEN (Teregram). — The specimen sent for identification is Rhododendron indicum var. balsaminiosflora. It is a well-marked variety of the popular Indian Azalea, or Indian Rhododendron as it is correctly called, R. indicum and has long been in cultivation. Both dwarfer and' hardier than the type, it is an excellent plant for the rock garden or border in the warmer parts of the country and even thrives fairly well in some parts of the Midlands'. Mature plants are often no more than 12 inches high, but very bushy. As a rule, it blossoms freely from the time when it is but an inch or 2 inches high. Cuttings of half-ripe shoots root well in sandy peat in a ^close frame during summer, and good plants may be purchased from any of the nurserymen who make a speciality of hardy plants. A SELECTION OF DAHLIAS AND VIOLAS (B. T.).— You vidll find the following Cactus and single Dahlia? a useful lot for cutting : Cactus — Charles Woodbridge, Countess of Lonsdale, Lord Roberts, Loyalty, Lucius] Magnificent, Mrs. C. Gaze, Red Rover, Starfish, Up-to-date] William Jowett and Zephyr. Singles — Alice Seale] Beauty, Folly, Alice, Jeannette, Northern Star, Polly Eccles, Phyllis, Victoria, Miss Roberts, Mrs. Cannell and Mrs. Watson. Six showy and free-flowering Violas are Countess of Hopetoun, Countess of Kintore, White Duchess, Archie Grant, Primrose Dame and J, B. Riding, Six good Pansies will be found in Agnes Kay, Dr. Campbell, Leviathan, George Stewart, Lord Roberts and Miss Neil, It is not, however, worth while purchasing named' varieties of Pansies unless they are required for a special purpose, as seedlings are now quite as good. Bone-meal, basic sl?,g and kainit are suitable manures for your lawns and meadows. VARIOUS QUESTIONS iReader).~lt is not usual for Soldanellas to flower a second time, and too fre- quently they refuse to flower at all. This year we have seen more than one instance of later flowers, though in all probability the crowns now flowering did not do so earlier in the year. You appear to have been very fortunate with your Sweet Peas, and the plants generally are doing well this season, particularly so those sown in September last on chalky loams and in good holding soils. The result, in some measure, may also be due to the conditions under which last year the seeds were grown, a bad or good growing and ripening season not unnaturally affecting the crops, as also the subsequent season's growth and development. Erythrseis are, as you say, deserving of more extended cultivation, though they are grown and appreciated in many gardens. You are" also fortunate with your Tomatoes, as in some districts these have sufi'ered from the late spring frosts. 348 THE GARDEN. [July 4, 1914. AUBRIETIAS NOT FLOWERING (E. V. S.).—^\f micrht have fornied a more correct opinion as to the failure had yoii riven some particulars as to the position and cultivation generally. In the absence of these we c-an only presume that the plants are in too rich a soil, or in the shade witli cons^iderable moisture at hand. These plants are most prodi^ral in their flowering; when promn'i in comparatively poor soil in full sun, as, e.g.. ledces of rock or as odplncs to pathways and like places. With these, firm planting is an important factor. If your plants are not in a fully expofcd place, you should transfer them to such an one without delay and give them a poor soil into which old mortar, pravel, Fand or broken sandstone enters freely. By pruning now to within 3 inches of the soil, the plants would break away again in a month, and may be replanted then if you can give the necessary attention to watering and shading till they are re-established. \Ve arc complying mth your further request. PROPAGATION OF DIANTHUS AND ONOSMA {A. 0. S.). — The only practical method is by heel cuttings severed with a slight downward pull from the parent plant and inserted without more ado. Layering is impracticable, and, indeed, impossible of good results in the case of the Onosma.and cuttings made to a supposed "joint" have no possibility of rooting, owing to the peculiarity of the gro\\'th. On the other hand, heel cuttings in sandy soil in a cold frame in June will root readily. Hence your enquiry is in the nick of time. The Dianthus may be rooted from June to September by employing the'same type of cutting in like circum- stances. In thi? case a greater number of suitable cuttings vriU be produced if you suppret;s the flowering by the removal of the centre of the larger growths and wait for the coming of the lateral branches at their bases. Secure these cuttings when 2 inches or so in length. Do not use the knife to the Onosma in any circumstances. It is also bad for the Dianthus. TREES AND SHRUBS. CLEMATIS DISEASED (T. TT.K— From what you say about your Clematis we imagine that it is suffering from a disease common to the garden forms of the genus. This disease causes apparently healthy plants to behave in the manner you describe, and they usually die within a few days. The best plan is to plant them where the sun ivill not strike the lower part of the stem, for although the upper branches like sun, the lower parts are easily injured by tierce sun-heat. Nothing can be done to improve your plant, we are afraid. Your Sweet Peas and Green Peas are apparently attacked by some disease, but we cannot say what disease or ad\ise about them without seeing the plants. SHRUBS AND CATERPILLARS U. Q. 5.).— Your Clematis has evidently been attacked by caterpillars or some other insect pest, the damage being done and the caterpillars turned into chrysalides before you noticed the injury. Your newly planted shrubs are evidently suffering from drought : they should be kept well watered during dry weather until properly established. You may reduce the shoots by 9 inches or 12 inches at the present time, as the plants appear to be suffering from insufficient root action, though it is not absolutely necessary to prune such shrubs as you mention the first year after they are planted. ' A surface-dressing or mulch of well- rotted manure will do good by keeping the soil cool and moist. STAPHYLEA BEARING DIFFERENT KINDS OF FLOWERS {E. W. N.). — The specimen sent for determi- nation is not the typical Staphylea colchica. It is probably S. Coulombieri, which is a hybrid between S. colchica and S. pinnata. The smaller flowers are typical of S. pinnata, and the others of S. colchica. Although it is not usual for the hybrid to produce two kinds of flowers, a branch or two may have sported, or your plant of S. colchica may have been grafted upon S. pinnata, branches of the latter having grown from the stock and the bush bearing typical branches of two species. Had the two kinds of flowers appeared before, we should have imagined it to have been a grafted plant. PRUNING SHRUBS {E. C.).— Two distinct kinds of shrubs are known by the name of Syringa. As a generic name it is applied to the Lilacs, and as a common name it is used in connection ^^^th the Philadelphuses or Mock Oranges. We presume that you refer to the latter shrute, and if that is the case, you may shorten the long branches as soon as the flowers are over. As a rule, it is only usual to thin out the branches of the taller-growing kinds every three or four years ; but those of low gro^vth, the Lemoinei section, are improved by having the flowering wood cut away each year, leaving as many strong young shoots as po.ssible. Should you refer to the Lilac, the long shoots may be shortened when the flowers are over, and the weak growths from the side of the plant should be removed. It is also wise to keep the base of the plant free from suckers. TAKING CUTTINGS OF SHRUBS {Harry 0.).— It is unlikely that you will be able to strike any of the plants you mention, except Ceanothus, out of doors or in your green- house, unless you possess a frame which can be kept close and shaded. You may then be able to root branch cuttings of Pittosporums, Ceanothus and Choisya ternata at the present time, and Romneya Coulterj in spring, by taking cuttings of the roots as thick as a lead pencil and 3 inches to 4 inches long, and inserting the pieces singly in small pots of sandy soil. You will probably do better by layering the lower branches of your shrubs in the borders where they stand. When rooted, the branches can be removed and treated as separate plants. If you order the Viola from any of the leading nurserymen who advertise in The Garden, you will be able to secure the number of plants you desire. It is not unusual for the Bottle-Brush Tree to bloom out of doors in the Isle of Wight. AUSTRIAN PINE SHOOTS WILTING (J. 5.).— The wilting of the*^Austrian Pine shoots appears to have been due to the^ presence of larvae of the Pine shoot moth (Tortrix or Retinia buoliana), but there were no larvie in the sections sent. Probably by a careful examination of the plants you will find the insect. All that can be done to prevent the spread of the disease is to remove and burn the affected shoots at once. HYDRANGEA PANICULATA (H. T.).— This shrub does not thrive as a pot plant for any considerable length of time, and as it is quite hardy, you would do well to plant it out ordoors at once in rich, loamy soil. The branches should be pruned well back each year. As a rule, the shoots formed the previous year are cut back to within two or three buds of the base in February. The flowers being borne on the current year's wood, all pruning may be accompbshed while the plant is at rest. When the young shoots are about three inches long, thin them out, lea^ing but one or two of the stronger ones to each of the previous year's shoots. As it is a rank feeding plant, provide a surface-dressing of well-decayed manure each year after it has[T)ecome established, and, after the buds appear, their development may be assisted by an occa,sional application of manure-water. It is only usual to flower plants once in pots, and then plant them out. THE GREENHOUSE. INJURY TO PELARGONIUMS {Druid).— The Pelar- goniums are attacked by a fungus near the root, leading to the blackening of the stem. We advise you not to use old potting soil in future for potting on the plants — not, at least, until it has been stacked for some time, for it often harbours plant pests. BRUGMANSIA LEAF ATTACKED BY BED SPIDER (Q. F.). — The Brugmansia is attacked by red spider, a pest that is probably attacking the Salvia too. The latter is too much dried up to enable us to be certain. You have probably permitted the house to become too dry, and so encouraged the red spider. A moist, buoyant atmosphere assists in keeping this pest in check, while a dry one encourages it. Fumigate on two occasions within four or flve days. TREATMENT OF ZONAL PELARGONIUMS {Zonals).— Zonal Pelargoniums such as those indicated by you, and which are now in 4^-inch pots, should, if potted into 6-inch pots, make good flowering plants for the spring and follovving summer. The main object should be to encourage a sturdy habit of growth, and in order to induce this the plants must have all the air possible; indeed, they may, during the summer, be stood on a firm bottom out of doors. The soil be-st adapted for Zonal Pelargoniums is good fibrous loam, lightened with a little leaf-mould or well-decayed manure and sand. The cuttings referred to by you should make a good succession to the larger plants. CARNATION LEAVES DISEASED {F. C. C.).— The Carnation leaves sent are very badly intested with that troublesome disease known as Carnation spot. It is generally supposed to be brought on by damp, cold climatic conditions, from which one would be inclined to think that your house has been kept too close, and. consequently, the atmosphere is too mnict for the welfare of the plants. If the ventilation of the house needs attention, this should be seen to at once, for a buoyant atmosphere with plenty of light is very essential to the successful culture of the Carnation. At present we should advise you to pick off all the leaves that are badly infested and syringe the plants with Veltha Emulsion according to the directions supplied with it. PLANT FOR NAME AND TREATMENT (X. Y. Z.).~ The leaf of the plant sent for determination is a species of Eueharis, apparently E. grandiflora, although the leaf is not the full size for that species. The plant should be grown in a tropical house with a minimum summer temperature of 60° to 65°, with a winter temperature 5° lower. It must never be allowed to become dry, as the leaves are evergreen in character. Frequent repotting must be avoided, as the bulbs dislike root disturbance ; but manure-water may be given with advantage while young leaves are being formed. Keep the atmosphere of the house moist and syringe the leaves well twice a day, taking care to get the water beneath as well as on the upper surface. Do not allow insect pests to obtain a footing, and encourage growth by every possible means. As the^ bulbs acquire strength, flowers will be borne freely. GREENHOUSE FLOWERS IN WINTER {A. M. Q. B.).— There are a great many subjects that will flower during the winter in a greenhouse maintained at a temperature of 50° to 55". Such plants will include Carnations, Zonal Pelargoniums, Primula sinensis in variety, P. obconica in various forms, P. malacoides, P. kewcnsis, Cyclamens, Bouvardias, Cinerarias, Salvias of sorts, the earlier- flowered Azaleas (particularly Deutsche Perle) and Arum Lilies. At the same time we vrish to point out that it is too late now to commence the culture of any of these plants v\ith the anticipation of their flowering in a satisfactory manner this winter. Most of tiicm, however, can be obtained as small plants from many of the advertisers in The Garden, and all that is needed is to shift them into larger pots and place them under conditions favourable to growth. If Koman Hyacinths are potted towards the end of August, they will in such a structure flower during the month of December, and much the same may be said of the I'apcr-white Narcissi. Frecsias potted in August are a little later in blooming, but their deliciously fragrant blossoms are always appreciated. Such hardy subjects as Solomon's Seal, Dielytra spectabilis and Spiraea japonica flower beautifully in the greenhouse dur- ing the winter and early spring months, thus anticipating by a considerable period their normal time of flowering out of doors. Of books such as you require, the following can be recommended : " The Amateur's Greenhouse," by T. W. Sanders, price 5s. 4d., and "Pictorial Greenhouse Management," by Walter P. Wright, price Is. 9d. ASPIDISTRA AS A TABLE PLANT (W. H.).— You can certainly, if you wish, show an Aspidistra as a table plant ; but, however well grov\Ti, it would be a weak feature in a collection, as it is of too heavy a nature to compare favour- ably with the lighter and more elegant subjects that arc available. Such plants as Aralia Vettchii, A. fllicifolia, Crotons of the narrow-leaved section, many Dracaenas, and such Palms as Cocos weddelliana, Phrenix Roebelinii and Geonoraa gracilis are far more fitted for table decora- tion than the Aspidistra. BEGONIA DISEASED (Somerset). —YoMi Begonia is badly attacked by that Insidious insect known generally as the Begonia mite, although other plants are often affected by it. Its ravages are greatly on the increase, and, unfortunately, it frequently does a lot of irreparable mischief before its presence is detected. A mixture of soft soap and nicotine, in which the plants should be dipped, is one of the best remedies ; but a single dipping will not suffice. On the principle that prevention is l>ettcr than cure, the house in which the Begonias are growTi should be occasionally vaporised with an approved vaporiser. TREATMENT OF MANETTIA BICOLOR (IF. H.).— From your description it would appear tliat the pkint of 5Ianettia bicolor has been too cold during the winter, with, perliaps, an excess of moisture at the roots TTiis IManettia succeeds best in what is usually referred to as a warm greenhouse ; that is to say, a structure in which the winter temperature ranges from 50° to 65**. It v\ill succeed in an ordinary potting compost of loam, leaf-mould and sand, and throughout the summer will do well in an ordinary greenhouse, or even out of doors. In your case we should be inclined to repot the plant, taking away as much of the old soil as possible without unduly distressing the roots. Then, if kept rather close and shaded, with an occasional syringing, it will, in all probability, start freely into growth. CHRYSANTHEMUMS : PREMATURE BUD FOR- MATION (R. H. B.). — Some varieties show buds more persistently than others, and, furthermore, such bud formation is more prevalent in some years than in others. Cuttings taken from the old stems often bear buds too soon. With a few exceptions Nature asserts itself, and growth shoots instead of buds take the lead, itemove the points of the shoots bearing the buds two joints instead of one below such buds, as shoots are more likely to grow from the lower joints. The variety Mary Poulton is one of the worst offenders as regards premature bud formation, but the plants generally bear very beautiful flowers, notwithstanding. ASPIDISTRA LEAVES TURNING YELLOW {A. J.).— It is quite impossible for us to tell the reason of your Aspidistra leaves turning yellow so soon after being re- potted. It may be that you have allowed them to get too dry, and that might account for the trouble. Excess of moisture would be just as bad. One prominent point to bear in mind in the successful culture of Aspidistras is to remember that in a state of Nature they occur on the margins of forests and in similar positions. They are, therefore, essentially shade-lovers, although the mistake is frequently made of exposing them to full sunshine. You ask if you have got wrong soil. Tl at is a question which we, of course, cannot answer : but full instructions were given in the article from which you quote. It may be, too, that when the plant was divided the roots were in a very bad condition, and if such was the case, the old leaves would be very likely to decay before the new roots were sufficiently developed to supply them with nourishment. KITCHEN GARDEN. RUST DISEASE ON CELERY {F. IF.).— The best way to av^oid the troublesome rust disease of Celery is to ensure that the seed sown is not infected with the fungus, as so much of it is. But, as a preventive, spraying the plants at intervals of about three weeks with Bordeaux mixture, commencing now, would be the best measure to adopt. TOMATO SPOT DISEASE (Tomato).— The Tomatoes are attacked by the Tomato black spot fungus. This is encouraged (1) by too moist an atmosphere and (2) the too free use of manure. Pick off and burn the diseased fruits, lest the fungus spreads. Water the plants at weekly intervals with a solution of potassium sulphate (half an ounce to a gallon of water). Give ample ventilation. LEAF-CURL IN TOMATOES (E7n£no«pn).— Specimens should always accompany questions when possible. Several diflferent causes lead to curling of foliage, and without seeing the type of curl it is practically Impossible to say what is its cause. The probable cause is either interference with the water supply or a sudden change of temperature. It may, however, bo a hereditary trouble. MALFORMED TOMATOES {J. B.).— No doubt one or other of the parent plants produced malformed fruits, and that would account for the malformed fruits you are getting. They are quite abnormal, and not of a form tl at could he attributed to the result of a cultural error. Wc have found the V.T.H. slug trap a good one for cock- roaches and crickets; but where animals are not likely (o get to tlip dead insects, phosphorous paste on bread is a useful poison. GARDEN.' -7^^ J^fel^^pA ffm>0 No. 2225.— Vol. LXXVIII. July ii, 1914. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Mowing Lawns Without a Grass-Box. — There seems to be great diversity of opinion as to the use of the grass-box, particularly in hot, dry weather. While it is true that to mow without it on tennis or croquet lawns the grass would certainly interfere with the play, still, on large stretches of lawn inclined to get burnt up with the Sim, there is much to be said for mowing without the box, as there can be no question that the plants derive great benefit from cut grass being left on the lawn. A Useful Scarlet-flowered Border Plant. — What a free-flowering plant Geum Mrs. Bradshaw is ! We have a large mass of it in our garden that has been in flower for many weeks, and still looks as well as ever with its large, semi-double, deep scarlet flowers. It is easily raised from seed, and seed- lings come true, so that a good batch can be obtained quickly. The beautiful double white flowered Peach-leaved Campanula, C. Moerheimii, is also in bloom, and as the two are growing together, they form a pleasing contrast. An Attractive Bramble. — Rubus odoratus is one of the most ornamental members of the Bramble family, forming a rather dense, erect growth. At the pre- sent time it is bearing its large, circular flowers of a pleasing purplish red tinge, and on healthy, developed specimens they will often continue to open till September. The large, sweet-scented leaves are broadly five-lobed and ir- regularly toothed, being very showy. It is an excellent plant for growing under the shade of trees, providing the soil is not too dry. There is a white variety which flowers earlier than the type, and is worthy of cultivation. The Persian Rose. — What a remark- ably fine piece of colouring is seen in this good old plant, its rich golden hue al- most defying description ! This notwith- standing and a fragrance which is also rich, the plant does not appear in every collection, even where the old favourites are admired to the full. We recently saw it against the house wall in the Rectory Garden, Clapham, near Worthing, and admired it for its richness of colour and free flowering. Because of these good attributes, and because, also, it has played a part in producing the modem yellow Roses, all who love beautiful colour in the Rose should add it to their collection if not already there. The Pyramidal Rockfoil. — The variety of Saxifraga Cotyledon known as pvramidalis is one of the most beautiful, and, incidentally, one of the largest, of the alpine Rockfoils in cultivation. It is very robust, and sends out sprays from 2 feet to 4 feet long, bear- ing innumerable white flowers that are speckled with crimson. It grows best in fissures between rocks, where the long, arching look of well the SAXIFRAGA COTYLEDON PYRAMIDALIS GROWING FISSURE BETWEEN ROCKS. sprays have plenty of room to develop. If the offsets are removed, larger specimen plants and stronger inflorescences may be obtained, but the rosettes do not, as a rule, attain flowering size in less than two years. It is said that this plant attains far greater propor- tions under , cultivation than it does in its native rocks in the Pyrenees and other mountain ranges of Europe. The Musk Rose. — This rambling Rose, Rosa moschata, is interesting and ornamental, and its scent is delicious. At the present time it is the most conspicuous of any of the species, with its large clusters of white flowers almost hiding the plant. To see it at its best it should be allowed to ramble freely, when it will often throw out shoots 10 feet long, which will form graceful arches of flowers the following year. In the Botanic Garden at Cambridge a large plant has rambled over a Pine tree some 50 feet high, almost hiding it with its clusters of flowers, which against the dark foliage Pine. Spiraea Henryi. — One of the most beautiful shrubby Spiraeas of recent introduction is S. Henryi. At the present time this is exceedingly pretty with its many corymbs of white flowers, which are borne most freely on the previous year's growth, forming beauti- ful arching sprays 5 feet to 6 feet Jong. Any pruning required should be done as soon as the flowering is over, and consists of thinning out the weak and old wood, the idea being to obtain long, uncrowded branches and to preserve a loose, open habit, so as to display the white corymbs of flower to the best ad- vantage. It is said that the poorer natives of Hupeh, near Ichang (where this beautiful plant was first dis- covered), use the leaves of it as a substitute for tea. The Fruit Crop in Oregon.— Th« Board of Agriculture and Fisheries are informed by His Majesty's Consul at Portland, Oregon, that the estimates of the probable Apple crop, which were made early in the season, seem to have been very much too large. Newtowns blossomed heavily, but a large quantity of the young fruit has dropped from the trees. Spitzenbergs did not bloom so pro- fusely, but they have set better than the Newtowns. Arkansas Blacks have also dropped from the trees to a great extent, and Winesaps are beginning to do the same. A great many Apples are showing sUght discolora- tion on the stem, which will probably mean further heavy falls, and it will be nearly the time of the Apples going to market before an accurate estimate can be made. These conditions are the results of an early spring followed by cold, mnd and rain, which did not prevent the fruit setting, but have caused it to fall afterwards. IN A 350 THE GARDEN. [July ii, 1914. CORRESPONDENCE. ( The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents.) Tall Delphiniums. — It may interest others to know of the extraordinary growth of some of my Delphiniums. Two large clumps are over ten feet in height and have flower-spikes of 3 feet each, while the blooms themselves are very fine. — B. Child, Ramleh, Walton-on-T!iames. Sweet-smelling Rosaries. — In last week's issue, page 338, there is a query with regard to sweet- smelling rosaries. A friend of mine who has made them has written the enclosed. He says, however, that his experience is that they do not keep the smell. [Put the petals (any colour or kind) into a metal mortar, and grind them to a very fine paste. The action of the metal will turn the pulp black. If the pulp be not made in this way, it may be stirred with an iron spoon or rod until it blackens. A smooth sur- face to the beads is secured by very thorough pounding, and this process can scarcely be continued too long. The paste is then rolled with the hands into beads. As these shrink while drying, allow- ance for this must be made. A row of pins or fine wire nails are driven through a strip of wood, and on these the beads are stuck while drying. The drying process should be conducted slowly, or the beads may crack. They should look, when finished, as if made of very fine charcoal. It is usual to string them with a tiny bright metal bead, either gold or silver coloured, between the large ones]. — A. L. Kynaston. Rose American Pillar. — With reference to your remarks on Rose American Pillar in your issue of July 4, page 337, I would like the members of the Rose Conference held at the Anglo-American Exposition, Shepherd's Bush, to have seen my specimen ; and had they done so I do not think they would have omitted to note it as one of the most beautiful of the Roses which have come to us from the United States of America. I procured ray plant from Messrs. H. Cannel! and Co. when they introduced it a few years ago, and it has flourished exceedingly, sending up strong canes every season. I cut down the canes after flowering .^nd train up the new growth to take their place. Last year I had nine new shoots, and this year I count over fifteen in good growth. The plant as it now is stands from 12 feet to 14 feet high, with a diameter of from 4 feet to 5 feet. The canes are trained up an iron post, round which is an old wire umbrella, cigar shape, and at the top they meet and hang over. The canes flower from near the ground all the way up and in great bunches. The Rose is a hardy one. — H. G. B., Forest Hill. S.E. A Charming Iris Border. — At Hoddam, Dum- friesshire, the residence of Mr. Edward J. Brook, there was during June a magnificent display of Iris pallida dalmatica. It is planted by itself in a lon^:, narrow b^rdT beside the extensi^■e aviaries, and presented a delightful appearance in the third week of that month. From a careful calcu- lation, made by taking a short length of average bloom and multiplying it by the entire length of the border, after deducting a considerable number for errors, there must have been at least 4,000 blooms open at one time in this border. The flowers were of full size, and it can be realised by those who know this handsome Fleur-de-Lis how magnificent was the display afforded by this border. The plants have been in the same position for several years, and have been left without breaking them up. They have done better this year than ever before. — S. Arnott. New Rambling Roses. — I do not think " Dane- croft," whose article appeared on page 317, issue June 20, can know Neige d'Avril or Fraulein Octavia Hesse, or he would not say " we have no good white in that section." The former was sent out, I think, in 1908, and is one of the y »4 OLEARIA STELLULATA IN THE CAMBRIDGE BOTANIC GAKUK.Ni finest pure white rambling Roses — flowering on June 20 — that it is possible to see. I know of no variety to equal it in any way. The growth is vigorous. My plant is ro feet high, with hand- some, deep green leaves, which form a good ba^e for its clusters of pure white blooms above. The trusses vary in number from five to twelve. The individual flowers measure 2 inches across, and with the deep yeUow anthers are superb in appear- ance and deliciously fragrant. I do not know the origin of this Rose. It was sent to me for trial by Messrs. Bide and Son, Famham, and right well it deserves to be more widely known. Fraulein Octavia Hesse belongs to the wichuraiana section, but is exceptionally early flowering for that type, being with me fully developed by the middle of June. Singly the flowers are fully 3 inches in diameter and much like those of Kaiserin Augusta Victoria when quite open, and although it pro- duces a few smaller flowers on the same truss, it is not a cluster Rose like sy the illustration below. It is another thing, of course — savouring of incongruity and of much bad taste — when the modem antique, the carefully broken Victorian pavement stone, that of finely ground granite and cement, is introduced and associated with A PAVED GARDEN NEAR THE RIVERSIDE AT HARLEYFORD, BUCKS. too early to say whether it will prove as hardy as O. Aquifolium. The other new species, O. Delavayi, is a very different plant. Found in Yunnan, it is said to attain a height of 6 feet in that country, although it grows slowly here. It is distinct from other kinds by having its fragrant, white flowers produced from the points of the branches, as well as from the axils, in spring. PLANTS FOR PAVED WALKS. THE paved walks of the garden are in large degree a modem innovation, copies or imitations, doubtless, of those which have done duty as such — whether for the sake of convenience or ex- pediency it matters not — for a century or more in wayside cottage gardens in all parts of our delightful rural England. And, moreover, they supply a want and have come to stay. In the first place, properly conceived and executed in buildings genuinely antique, or even decidedly modem. In such instances the practised eye of the true garden artist or landscape gardener will at once miss the time-worn, unequal comers of the older flags, just as the hand of the con- noisseur of antique furniture will miss and decide by touch alone whether the example before him is genuinely antique or not. In both Time has played a part, robbed or divested each of their sharp, rigid edges, moulded and fashioned them as Nature does in her own sweet way to the hill- sides by which we are surrounded. Hence to get hold of the right material at the start is an important matter, and, if not reasonably attain- able, then I would say, forsake all idea of pavement stone and accept the flattish rock formations of Nature instead. These, if more rugged of surface, will at least be less formal generally, while the interstices their irregular outlines afford will prove the best of abiding-places for the plants we have in mind. The walks themselves — the stones — -are, how- ever, of fimdamental importance. These constitute the setting, and the setting should be worthy of the gems ; hence the need of a rightful conception 366 THE GARDEN. [July i8, 1914. of the whole, so that the one may be truly weddfd to the other, as though part of Nature's own. I have seen it otherwise • — detected again and again in these matters attempts to wed May to December, with, as usual, the most disastrous results. I have also seen instances, even where the stones have been of the right kind, of that species of overplanting — it has its parallel in the civer-jewellcd fingers of the newly rich — which so crowds every crack and cranny with vegetable life as to make these pathways impossible or imprac- ticable. There is no need for either. The preser- vation of the pathway as such is essential. It should never be nullified by foot-high plants at flowering-time, nor by others whose roundly cushioned tufts render high stepping or picking one's way necessary. These, indeed, are some of the things to avoid, some of the things the mure intelligently planted of these flagged ways there is no need for either, and the pedestrian should be able to pursue his way \vithout regard to where the next step should be placed. In a word, though the selection of good plants is not large, there is enough for the purpose, ample to keep the central tread or the great proportion of the path quite free of large-growing things. In certain instances the sides of the paths or steps, should such exist, might be ornamented by some of the plants I have tabooed, using them in moderation, without attempting the herb garden in terrace walk or pergola path. Aubrietias and Mossy Saxifrages and their like in growth are too large, and they show to better advantage elsewhere. Seeds of such things as Erin us and the miniature- growing Dianthi, among others, might be sown, though usuallv little bits of plants so inserted THE DIANTHUSES PINKS. OR THE WILD FORM OF THE GARDEN PINK (dIANTHUS PLUMARIUS). which, if thoughtlessly indulged in, make these pleasing phases of a garden less a pleasure than they might have been. In the wayside cottage garden the chief garniture of these flagged ways is not infrequently moss, hchen, or indigenous Spergula or similar thing, and their dwarfness should prove an invaluable object-lesson to the gardener. It is another thing altogether, far beyond the limits of good taste, or taste at all, when one is confronted by Corydalis, Candytuft, Mossy Saxifrages in high mounded cushions. Lemon Thyme, foot-high Campanulas and Dianthuses, Rock Roses and others, through whose maze of tufts much steering is necessary to avoid them. In one instance I remember a party of visitors avoided the path and took to the adjoining turf, to the discomfiture and annoyance of the owner. As a fact, however, pedestrianism in the ordinary way was a dis- comfort— I had almost said impossible. In as to thread their way among the cracks of the stones will be found the better method for planting. Tufts of plants should never be inserted whole. The object is to garnish the sides of the stones, not to obliterate the latter from view ; hence the value of " little bits " along their margins. The following are some good plants, though there is no pretension to a complete list : Sedum corsicum, S. brevifolium, S. Lydium, S. hispanicum glaucum, Erinus, Linaria pilosa, L. hepaticaefolia, Dianthus caesius, D. arvemensis. Thymus Serpyllum cocci- neum. Paronychia serpyUifolia, P. Kapela (both ideal carpeters), Leptinella scariosa, Mentha Requienii (a veritable and fragrant gem), Arenaria balearica (preferably where it could climb steps or side walls). Campanula pulla, C. pusilla in variety, Draba aizoides (seeds or plants), Helxine Solierolii. Acaena microphylla, and Antennaria tomentosa, which is highly ornamental used in conjunction with red sandstone. E. H. Jenkins. {Continued from page 353.) D. plumariUS. — The wild form of llie garden Pink, D. plumarius, has rose flowers and is single. There are, as is well known, many double varieties which please the grower of border flowers. At present we may draw attention to a number of beautiful single varieties for the rockery, the wall, or the edging. A packet of seeds will give many varieties, ranging from white to crimson, and many with deep-coloured zones. Named single varieties, such as Beauty, Dove, Duchess of Fife, &c., are very fine. Cyclops, which comes wonder- fully true from seeds, is very showy. D. Seguieri. — One of the Pinks which is best for rather large rockwork. It grows from 12 inches to 18 inches high, with two to four flowers together on the stems. They are pink, with a purple centre. It looks well near the top of a wall or on high rockwork. Flowers from June to .August. D. squarrosus. — This has clear lilac flowers on stems about a foot high, and, though not one of the best, is an easy Dianthus to grow almost anywhere. It has fringed petals, and flowers from June onwards. D. SUaviS. — One of the Dian- thuses which attract everyone by their habit and fragrance is D. suavis. It makes a close mat of small, grass-like leaves, which hang prettilv over the stones, and are covered in the summer with a multitude of little, fringed, white flowers. Easy to grow. D. SUbacaulis. — I have not grown this plant, which seems a good doer on the rockery. It has rose flowers on 6-inch stems, and makes a spiny- looking tuft of narrow grassy leaves. D. superbus. — Unfortunately, not very long-lived as a rule, but pleas- ing all by its fragrant, whitish rose, deeply fringed flowers. It should be raised often from seeds, as it usually dies after flowering. It will grow almost anywhere. The flowers appear from May to August. D. tener. — One of the prettiest of the small alpine Pinks, which has very small, cheery-looking pink flowers oix stems of a wiry nature, and from 3 inches to 4 inches in height. It is good for a dry, gritty rockery or the moraine. D. zonatus. — ^This is an easy plant to grow on the rockery or moraine. It comes freely from seeds, and can also be raised from cuttings. It has grassy leaves and large flowers of blush or pink with a dark zone. It varies slightly in colour from seeds, but is very easily cultivated in a light soil, and prefers lime. Flowers in the summer. A number of other good, easily grown Pinks are sometimes offered. These include D. furcatus, D. hirtus, D. intermedins, D. noeanus, D. pallens, D. pinifolius, D. pungens, D. siculus, D. Simsii, D. tenuifolius, D. Waldsteinii and D. Wimmeri. Dumfries. S. Arnott. {To be continued.) ihplciucut to THE GARDEN, July iS///, 1914 THREE TULIP SPECIES: Yellow: T. Batalinii. Red & White: T. clusiana. Small Red: T. chrysantha (Kew), also known as T. stellata. hcilrns. Ltd.. Printers. Lnndoii. S.E. July i8, i9I4' THE GARDEN. 367 SOME EASILY GROWN TULIP SPECIES. COLOURED PliATB 1498. UNTIL Mr. W. R. Dykes, of Iris fame, has completed his Herculean task of growing all the so-called species (>( Tulips from seed, we cannot say for certain of any Tulip, except a very few, " this is a species." This is the present state of our knowledge. Before the Neo-tulips of Italy or Savoy can be considered as having specific rank, we have " a deal to learn." In these notes I use the term " species " in the old-fashioned, loose way, which, as we have no other at present, we must perforce stick to. I am sorry to say that I have to write in rather a pessi- mistic vein about the grand species which have come to us within the last two or three decades from Turkestan, Bokhara, Persia and elsewhere. Great hopes were raised at Wisley when fosteriana (immense scarlet) first bloomed. I remember so well Mr. S. T. Wright telling me that he thought it would be a good doer, and that his half-dozen bulbs had formed offsets. He has not mentioned T. fosteriana lately. Put what construction you like upon this silence, I feel sure that there are few, if any, gardens where T. fosteriana, T. Eichleri and, I may almost add, T. Greigii, really flourish. They may be kept alive, but that is all. It has been sug- gested that they are by nature a short-lived race and perpetuate themselves always in their own homeland by seed. They are, how- ever, so magnificent that I plead for them as luxuries, just to be indulged in when one is " flush." All have large flowers and are of a brilliant shade of crimson or scarlet. T. mauriana, the lovely bright red with a pure yellow base, from Savoy, thrives and increases, and is one of the most brilliant of all Tulips ; but is it a true species ? The Bokharian prtestans is a bright vermilion, base and all, and has several flowers on a stem. It is the best doer of what I venture to call the true large red species type. I have seen it grow fairly when left for two or three years in light soil, and with lifting it every year myself in my heavier land I am able to keep it. Kaufmanniana (the Water Lily Tulip), usually a pale primrose, although there are bright red and deep yeUow forms, can usually be relied upon. It flowers in early spring and seems quite at home in our gardens, although it is not a very rapid increaser. The smaller Tulips, as a rule, behave better. Clusiana and Batahnii certainly do, and they may be established on a rockery where they will get a good resting-place in summer. Chrysantha I have not grown myself, but I am told it is not such a good doer as the others. Dasystemon is the most satisfactory of all. It is a very dwarf grower, and generally has more than one flower upon a stem ; good, strong bulbs ought to throw three or even four. The exterior of the blooms is a sort of green, while the interior is pure wliite with a large yellow base. Clusiana, or the Lady Tulip, is very pleasing ; it has bright rosy red marks on its external petals and a claret-coloured base. Batahnii is a sort of first cousin to the brilliant linifoha. I am told they come from different valleys in Central Asia, and tliat various gradations in colour are to be found among them. Mr. E. A. Bowles has two or tliree very pretty varieties in the rockery at Myddelton House. I do not think they increase, but they come up chrysantha, persica (small, dwarf deep yellow) and the Algerian primuUna (yellowish white)— are Didieri (pointed, crimson), Didiori alba (pure wliite) and Marjoletti (pale yellow, witli rose blotches at the base of the petals). These may all l)e usefully used in suitable positions in rockwork, and in light soil will probably take care of them- selves. T. Sprengeri seems to stand in a class by itself. It is very late in flowering and of a bright scarlet colour. I find this goes on for some years without being much the worse, and as it is a valuable addition to the summer flora at a rather sparse time, it is one that should be tried. I recommend it for clumps in borders. It seeds freely ; in fact, most of the species do. Seeds readily germinate, but the lengthy period of waiting is deterrent. However, like it is with Daffodils, once the first weary wait is over, if the sowing is annual, a reguLir succession of seedlings may be kept up. Joseph Jacob. [We are indebted to Messrs. Barr and Sons, King Street, Covent Garden, W.C, for the flowers of the interesting Tulip species from which our coloured p ate has been pre- pared.— Ed.] DIANTHUS DUCHESS OF FIFE IN THE ROCK GARDEN. yearly and do not die. Chrysantha, if I remember rightly, was shown last spring by Messrs. Barr and Sons. It is a pretty red and yellow, and is well worth a trial, although 1 cannot say much about it from personal experience. Sir J. D. Hooker, in his " Flora of British India," says the bulbs are eaten in Baluchistan. It takes one back to those first planted in Holland in 1571. The Dutch in those days thought they had got hold of something to eat, and the first Tulips were promptly planted in a kitchen garden. Three lovely and dainty Tulips which might be added to the above — clusiana, Batalinii, linifolia. TWO FINE CLIMBING TEA ROSES. In the fine Rose gardens of M. Ber- naix there is what 1 believe to be the original plant of Souvenir dc Mme. Leonie Viennot growing as a huge bush, all bespangled with its lovely blooms. This is a de- lightful variety, its blossoms, a lovely yellow, passing to amber and shaded cochineal. They are not too full and are of perfect form. A friend ^vrit- ing from New South Wales says that grown on its own roots this variety is perpetually in bloom, whereas budded on Briar it is but a spring flower. I am convinced we need to give more heed to the question of stock, and I have no doubt in my own mind that far superior results would follow the culture of many somewhat erratic Roses if they could be grown on their own roots. At present this is not a com ■ mercial success, seeing that the cut tings must be rooted under glass in this country ; but possibly it may some day suit the grower to raise such Roses in quantities. In the meantime any amateur who can spare a small propagatmg-frame in his greenhouse would do well to strike a few of such Roses as he finds difiicult to grow in the ordinary way. The other fine climber I should like to direct attention to is Souvenir de Mme. Joseph Metral. For size of bloom it has no equal. The flowers are very double, of grand exhibition shape and of a lovely cherry red colour, shaded crimson and vermilion. The Rose may be grown as a free bush, but its flowers need support, as they are so heavy. It is fine on a south or west wall, and would also make an excellent standard. Danecroft. 368 THE GARDEN. [July iS, 1914. SWEET PEA NOTES. Summer Treatment and Exhibiting. — By the time these notes appear, the Sweet Pea enthusiast will be either rejoicing in a display of magniticent flowers and eagerly anti:^ipating the near approach- ing floral contests, or he is miserably disappointed by dire failures. In this latter case, rarely does lie assign the blame to the right cause. Seldom will a grower admit that his ignorance or careless neglect has been mainly the cause of his unlucky disaster. Yet in the few instances of partial nr total failure I have met with this season, almost every one could be attributed to the fact that the grower (neglecting the warning so oft repeated in these columns) made the mistake of working and pre- paring his soil when in an unfit condition ; conse- quently, the drought, succeeding the verj' wet wea- ther of March, baked his so'l into huge, solid lumps, in which it was impossible for the Sweet Peas to gi"ow. On the other hand, in the majority of gardens the Sweet Peas are better than they were last year. Increased Popularity is evidenced by the number of extra classes one finds devoted to his Sweet Peas well into bloom by the latter week of June, and then maintaining a succession of flowers weU into the autumn. To attain this, the plants must be kept in a growing state. No seed-pod must be allowed to form, and all mal- formed flowers should be rigidly cut off. Give a syringing frequently to prevent the hardening and drying of the haulm, and applications of liquid manures (a little and often) will ensure the plants growing well into the autumn. Nitrate of soda and sulphate of ammonia sprinkled upon the soil (about an ounce to the square yard) before watering will materially help to promote new growths after several pickings have been taken. I have by these means often picked fine blooms in October from plants that commenced flowering early in July. Exhibiting. — I have often felt that it is one thing to have first quality Sweet Peas growing in the garden, but a totally different thing to so stage them at an exhibition that they win the merited award. What is the reason for this ? In the first place, too many exhibitors make the fatal mistake of attempting too much. Often have I advised would-be exhibitors to content digested. If compelled to use a weak blossom, do not conceal it. The judge is sure to "spot " it, and then follows a closer scrutiny. Unless the rules compel a fixed number, use fewer sprays rather than stage weak ones. Finally, look at the National Sweet Pea Society's Too-much-alike List and do not stage synonymous varieties ; do not neglect to correctly label your exhibits, and be sure to read the schedule of the show and obev the rules. S. M. Crow. NEW ROSES "NATIONAL" AT TH SHOW. THERE was nothing very startlingly new at the National Rose Society's show held on Tuesday of last week, and a report of which appears on another page. At the same time, there were a number o| very good seedlings shown, and the following recei\'ed awards from the judges. Augustus Hartman. — .A seedling Hybrid Tea of vigorous habit with stout, bushy stems. Said Mrs. Bertram Walker. Margaret Dickson Humill. THREE GOLD MEDAL ROSES. Augustus Hartman. Sweet Peas in the schedules of the summer shows. Also one could not help feeling a throb of pleasure as one stood on a railway terminus station in London a few days ago and saw the number of people either wearing a button-hole of Sweet Peas or carrying bunches of them. The National Sweet Pea Society has accomplished a grand work, and at its show on July i6 at West- minster will be seen all the choicest and newest Sweet Peas, and no lover of this flower should miss this opportunity of seeing them. Summer Culture. — During dry weather continue to give a thorough soaking twice or thrice a week, alternating with a good hoeing. After several pickings have been made, the plants require a restorative and a stimulant ; therefore give either liquid manure or any of the prepared foods as recommended in my previous notes. Also remem- bei that a mulch of well-decayed manure or spent Hops adds extra nutrition and materially helps to iir'^vent loss of moisture. Extension of Flowering Period. — Every grower, except he be a. seedsman, should aim at getting themselves with a six class rather than put up a weak dozen. It is true this advice has frequently been coldly received, ofttimes rejected. Yet I am convinced that it is a mistake to try too large a class, or to show in too many classes. Secondly, many exhibitors fail to recognise the superiority of a fresh Ai quality three-flowered spray over a coarse, faded four. But such is a fact. Do not stage a weak four if you have an excellent three bloom spray. Again, it is essential that the exhibitor who means to have the premier award stages only those varieties that will success- fully withstand the vitiating atmosphere of the show tent, and this knowledge can only be obtained by experiment, noting the behaviour of each variety (i) during transit, (2) in water, (3) in a hot, humid or dry atmosphere, and (4) in a draught. Of course, this entails a fair amount of labour and trouble, but it means all the difference between an honour or a blank ; therefore know your Sweet Peas. Other points were fully dealt with in last week's issue (page 351) by Mr. Thomas Stevenson, whose advice should be carefully considered and to be perpetual flowering and good for exhibition or bedding. The blooms are large, deep and slightly conical in the centre, the indixadual petals being very large. The colour is rich glowing vermilion scarlet, reminding us in this respect of George C. Waud. The fragrance, though not powerful, is very pleasing. Shown by Messrs. B. R. Cant and Sons, Colchester. Gold medal. Margaret Dickson Hamill. — A seedling Hybrid Tea, good for exhibition or bedding. The plant as shown has a very branching habit and spin\- stems, but the blooms are not too erect. They are of good size and substance, fairly full and slightly conical. Colour, yellow, flushed with apricot. Not very fragrant, though slightly Tea-scented. Shown by Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Sons, Hawlmark, Newtownards. Gold medal. Clytemnestra. — A seedling Hybrid Tea suitable for garden purposes and said to be perpetual flowering. A cluster Rose, the blooms being produced in large trusses. The open flowers arc of ragged shape and of blush white, flushed July i8, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 369 WATER AND ROCK- WORK IN A SMALL GARDEN. '' I '"^1 AN EFFECTIVE VIEW IN A READER'S GARDEN. apricot colour. Shown by the Rev. J. H. Pember- ton, Havering-atte-Bower. Gold medal. Majestic. — A seedling Hybrid Tea of vigorous, upright habit with stout, spiny stems. The flowers are large, deep, of good substance, slightly corneal in shape, and very sweet scented. The colour is glowing soft vermilion pink. Shown by Messrs. William Paul and Son, Limited, Waltham Cross, Herts. Gold medal. Mrs. Bertram Walker. — A seedling Hybrid Tea of erect branching habit, and said to be perpetual flowering. The flowers are borne on stout, erect stems, and are of medium size, have plenty of depth and substance, and are of rather conical habit. The colour is a glowing cerise pink. Shown by Hugh Dickson, Limited. Gold medal. Mrs. Maud Dawson. — A large Hybrid Tea seedling of branching, dwarf habit and evidently free flowering. Said to be good for bedding or exhibition ; certainly it will be excellent for the latter purpose. The blooms are very full and conical, and leave nothing to be desired in shape. Colour, deep bright crimson. Very fragrant. Shown by Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Sons, Hawlmark, Newtownards. Silver-gilt medal. Dorothy Varden. — A hybrid rugosa, making a large shrub or bush 4 feet to 5 feet high and said to be perpetual flowering. The blooms are freely produced, semi-double and slightly fragrant. The half - open flowers are glowing apricot salmon pink, changing to a much paler shade as they age. Shown by Messrs. George Paul and Sons, Cheshunt. Certificate of merit. Mrs. Arthur Bide.— A seedling Hybrid Tea, the result of a cross between Mrs. T. W. Massey and Souv. de Catherine Guillot. Habit vigorous and branching, and said to be perpetual flowering. Might be aptly described as a double Irish Elegance. Only slightly fragrant. Shown by Messrs. A. Bide and Sons, Limited. Certificate of merit. HE small pond shown in the illustration is a very effective feature in a little villa garden of the usual rectangular type. On three sides it is sur- rounded by rockwork facing south- west. At the very top a Clematis (Viticella) is planted and trained over trellis-work. It has to be vigorously cut back below, or it \vould soon smother the whole rockery. At its foot is a small Gorse bush, which flowers intermittently, as it does on our commons. " When the Gorse is out of bloom, kissing's out of season." A little lower there are, to right and left, patches of purple Aubrietia, and, contrasting well with its fine glaucous " grass," a tuft of Pinks. Among and be- tween these are Daffodils ; the flowers were just over and cut when the photograph was taken, but the long leaves show plainly. There is a big patch of Iberis sempervirens (perennial Candytuft) in full bloom in the middle of the picture, and just above, and to the left, a strong clump of the wild yellow Iris of our English brooks. It is in flower in June, and the seed- vessels are very decorative later on, though, if left, they scatter much seed, and a careful removal of seedlings is necessary. To the right, above the Iris, is the old familiar double white Arabis, tumb- ling down that side of the rockery like a sheet of snow. I cut it well back after flowering, as it is a great invader. At the right edge the lea^•es of a pale blue (Kalway) Larkspur can be seen. The water is just below the large Iris group ; but an Iris with very narrow leaves and veined purple flowers in June, planted at the near edge, hides much of it. Some plants of Leucojum vernum are in flower a little to the right of the Iris, and then the dark red, early growtlis of a very fine Astilbe rivularis, a sort of giant and hardy Spiraja, fill up the space to the edge. They grow 2 feet or 3 feet high, are very much divided and graceful, and the flower rises to 5 feet — a great toss of creamy inflorescence in summer. In front, to the right, is a clump of self-sown Solidago (Golden Rod) that will grow too tall and must be elimuiated, and it joins on to a large piece of Cone-flower (Rudbeckia), which flowers in autumn. It is also too tall when fuUy grown, and should liave a place elsewhere, as it hides the water. Then, very much mixed up together, but all thriving on the steep slope, are Wallflowers, spring Forget-me-nots (removed when out of bloom), Sedum rupestre, Loudon Pride and a white-flowered Carnation. Tlie Sedum (rosy purple) flowers from September right on till November. A tiny, low-growing Campanula (pumila alba) lies like moss on the ground to the extreme left. Hardly visible, there is also a great deal of Myosotis palustris, the summer-flowering Forget-me-not, which begins to bloom in June, and has large, handsome flowers. The Water Lily, shown in the other illustration of the surface of the pond only, is Nymphasa Helvola rosea. The leaves are coppery and quite small, but the flowers are a good size and have deep rose centres and yellow stamens. It flowers well, but would not do so if the surrounding plants overshadowed it, and that is one reason why only low-growing plants should be to the south of the pond side. The handsome leaves of a Funkia, growing under the Astilbe, are also visible in this picture, and the leaves of an ornamental striped grass. Between them and the Iris, the flat, disc-like leaves of Kingcups (Caltha palustris). may be noticed. There is a Water Plantain also in the pond, but it does not show, nor a piece of Buckbean I have lately introduced. M. W. S. WATER LILY POOL IN A VILLA GARDEN. 370 THE GARDEN. [July i8, 1914. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. Grapes which are quite ripe will require some protection from smi, in order to keep them in good condition for as long a time as possible. If ordi- nary garden nets are available, they will answer the purpose well, as besides shading the ripe Grapes they will be the means of preventing birds from entering the vineries and picking the berries. Ventilate freely, and only employ sufficient fire- heat to dispe! moisture during damp weather. Strawberry Plants for early forcing should be potted into 6-inch pots as soon as ready. Wash the pots and crocks before they are used, and make the soil finn without breaking the small ball of soil. Turfy loam, with a small quantity of decayed horse-manure, will suit them well. A sprinkling of bone-meal mixed with the soil will be an advantage. After potting, the plants should be placed in a shaded position and syringed twice daily while dry weather lasts. The Flower Garden. Pentstemons. — These plants are pushing up their flower-spikes, and should be encouraged by frequent applications of clear water at the roots. Keep the surface soil stirred with the Dutch hoe, and secure the flower-spikes to neat sticks before they are injured by rough wind. Carnations. — Border Carnations will now require attention to tying up the flower-spikes. Keep the Dutch hoe at work among the plants, and if dry weather continues, give a good watering of clear, soft water. The layering of next season's plants should be accomplished as early as possible, in order to allow the young plants to become established in their flowering quarters before the season is too far advanced. Sweet Peas. — These plants must receive a liberal supply of moisture at the roots during dry weather. Manure-water from the farmyard may be freely applied, but never of sufficient strength t<.) injiure the young roots. If decayed manure is available, a good mulching should be given previous to a soaking of clear, soft water. As the flowers die off, the seed-pods must be removed, in order to prolong the flowering period. Keep the stems close to the supports, so that the leading shoots may always grow in an upright direction. Weak soot-water is an excellent stimulant. Spring-flowering Plants, such as Wallflowers, .Myosotises, Polyanthuses and Violas, which have lieen raised from seed should now be ready for pricking off. This must be carefully performed, and the plants watered before they have time to flag. Frequent damping wiU be necessary until the plants become re-established. The Rock Garden. Watering. — Plants in exposed positions must receive careful attention to watering, which should be applied through a fine rose, so that the soil luay not be washed from its position. Cut over all plants as they pass out of flower, and proceed with the propagation of young stock for spring planting. Alpine Popples. — These, Papaver alpinum, are now flowering freely, and present a very attrac- tive appearance in the rock garden. They are easily raised from seed, which may be sown n(jw to produce plants for flowering next season. Auriculas. — Spring-sown seedlings should now he potted singly in small, clean pots and encouraged to grow freely. Care must be taken to protect the young plants from sun. Repotting of old stock should be carefully attended to, and the small offsets of choice varieties be placed under a hand- light, where they are almost certain to take root. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Young Fruit Trees which were planted in spring must be well supplied with moisture at tlie roots during dry weather, and, if not already done, a mulching of farmyard manure should be applied at once. SjTinge the trees as often as circumstances will permit, either in the early morning or evening. Yoimg trees planted against south or west walls must have daily attention in this matter, or they may suffer seriously and become permanently stunted. Raspberries. — The crop is ripening fast, and should be secured as s*»on as ri])e and per- fectly dry for preserving. Fruits required for dessert should be carefully netted, and if pro- tection from strong-sun can be provided, so much the better. If the shoots have gro%vn freely, they may be tied in such a way as to partly shade the fruits witbtiut making the covering too dense. When the crop has been gathered, all the old fruiting stems should be removed and the young shoots secured to wires or sticks. Four or five good strong shoots will be sufficient for each plant, as overcrowding must he avoided if good results are desired. The Kitchen Garden. Celery. — The principal plantation of Celery should now be finished, and if dry weather prevails, the plants must receive constant attention to watering. Earth up the early plants as soon as large enough, taking care to keep the hearts of the plants quite free from soil. Leeks. — Plants intended for winter use must now be put in drills r8 inches apart and r2 inches between the plants in the row. Plants intended for large specimens should now be ready for earth- ing up. This must be done several times during the season. The Leek is a gross feeding plant, and will repay the cultivator for liberal treatment. Water freely with liquid manure. Soot-water is also a good stimulant for this crop. Parsley for winter supplies ought to be sown as early in the month of August as possible. When the crop has grown a few inches high, the plants should be cut close to the ground, so that a quantity of sturdy leaves may be produced, as these will stand the winter better than long, spindly growth. If a cold pit is available, the seedlings may be thinned out and transplanted into the cold pit for use in rough wintry weather. Endive. — The principal sowing shotild now be made and the plants thinned and transplanted. As soon as ready, some part of this plantation may be made where protection can be given diu'ing winter. French Beans. — These should now be planted in cold pits for use during October. Plant in rows 2 feet apart, and keep the lights off until the approach of frost. Globe Artichokes. — Give liberal waterings of liquid manture, and cut as soon as large enough, whether they are required for use or not. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Watering. — The heavy rams which fell in many parts of the country dmring the latter part of June were the means of savhig many of the vegetable crops, which had been suffering severely. They will now be growing freely, and with many of the choicer vegetables, such as Peas, Celery and Cauliflower, occasional waterings with liquid manure will be very beneficial. If this cannot be secured, good results may be had from sulphate of ammonia at the rate of an ounce to the gallon of water, or, if used in a powdered state, an ounce to the square yard would be sufficient. Late Peas. — The latest-sown Peas will require special attention just at present, as, if allowed to become dry, the crop is more than likely to end in failure. If manure can be had, it will be well to spread some on each side of the row, afterwards giving a plentiful supply of water, which will ward off attacks from mildew. Small Salads. — Continue to make a small sowing of Radish once a fortnight, and for Mustard and Cress a sowing may be made once a week. The Flower Garden. Wallflowers. — The young seedlings should now be ready for pricking out, as, unless they were very thinly sown, the yoimg plants soon become drawn and spindly. Prick out in soil of a free- rooting medium made moderately firm, about 3 inches apart and 9 inches between the rows; at least, a sufficient width to allow the hoe to ply between them. The aim should be to build up nice sturdy little plants that will withstand severe winter weather. Roses. — The season so far has been favoiurable to Rose-growers, although some of the varieties have been more or less attacked by mildew. which not only renders them imsightly, but has a very weakening effect on the plants. I find most of those affected have suffered from dr\'ness at the roots. Now that many of the earlier blooms will be over, the faded flowers should be picked off and the shoots slightly shortened. They will be the better for liberal applications of liquid maniure, or, failing that, some approved Rose manure. I have used fish manure with verj- good results. Spring Bedding Plants. — A number of those sown last month should be almost ready for pricking off, and, as in the case of most plants that have to stand the winter, it is of the utmost importance to have them well rooted. Codonopsis ovata. — This plant, with its strikingly beautiful blooms, will now be going out of flower, and the flower-stems should be shortened to induce it to break into growth again. Perhaps its proper position is in the wall garden or hanging over stones in the rockerj', where the beauty of its flowers can be better seen. It is an old-fashioned plant, but one that is well worth a place in any collection. Plants Under Glass. Cyclamen. — The most forward of the old plants will be rooting freely, and will be greatly assisted with an occasional watering with soot- water, which I find not only strengthens the foliage, but also tends to keep the soil sweet. Admit air freely now, and on fine nights the lights may be drawn down, when the plants will derive much benefit from the evening dews. Seed- lings from last August sowing should be ready for potting on into 6-inch pots. After potting, keep them close for a time, syringing twice daily. Poinsettias. — By this time all the yoimg plants should be rooted, and the most forward ready for potting on into 4-inch pots. As soon as they have taken to the new soil, expose them to sun and air, so as to encourage a sturdy growth. Show Pelargoniums. — Those plants that ha\e flowered and have been placed in frames or out- side should now be sufficiently ripened so that they may be cut back and placed in frames till growth commences. After this they may be shaken out and repotted. Replace them in frames and water very carefully for a time ; indeed, a syrmging twice daily will keep them moist enough for a week or so. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Strawberries. — No time should be lost in securing rimners for planting either in the autumn or the following spring. If suitable ground were available, they could be planted right away. Where, however, this is not possible, tlu-y may be run into niursery lines in a well-prepared burdur, and, should the weather be dry, they will require copious suppUes of water from time to time. Wall Trees. — The heavy rain experienced in many districts some weeks ago has had a very beneficial effect on all wall fruit trees. Not only lias it cleansed the foliage of insect pests, but it has caused the fruit X\> swell nicely. Attention must be paid to stopping the shoots and laying in those required to furnish the walls. The regulation of shoots on Morello Cherries should be seen to at once, and protect the fruit with nets without delay. Fruits Under Glass. The Orchard-House. — Pot trees will require very careful attention now, particularly those approaching the ripening stage. In the case of the latter, artificial feeding should be discontinued, as well as the use of the syringe. .Apples and Pears should have their fruits supported with raffia, and in the case of the former the pots should be plunged in ashes out of doors to finish the colouring of the fruits. \ temporary erection should be put up, ^i\-er which a net can lie thrciwu to protect the fruits from birds. Melons. — Young plants raised from seed, which in most cases will form the last batch, should be planted out without delay. 1 find it useful to put a few plants in large p. its and grow them in odd comers, and from these a service- able supply of fruit can always l>e depended on. For this late batch the leading shoot should be stopped at about three feet, to induce the plants to throw out laterals more quickly. John Hiohoati;. (Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.) Hopftonn Gardens, South Qiwensferry, N.B. July i8, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 371 ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. MISCELLANEOUS. ROSES FOR TERRACE WALL {M. M, C.)— As you desire Roses to fall over the top of the 10-foot wall, you need varieties that have somewhat pliable growths. We think the following dozen would meet yTiing, was awarded third prize for a rather poor series. Only three entries for nine blooms of any Hose except Tea or Noisette were forthcoming, a box of blooms of Frau Karl Druschki of even form winning first prize for Mr. J. Hart.. Second prize was awarded to Mr. K. de V. Pryor for irregular blooms of Yvonne Vacherot ; and with small blooms of Mildred Grant, Mr. Gulliver Speight was placed third. In an extra class for Divisions E and F, for six distmct varieties, three blooms of each, there was only one exhibit. This came from Mr. J. Hart, and was awarded first prize. J. H. Welch, Florence Pemberton. Suzanne Marie Eodo- canachi. Dr. O'Donel Browne, Frau Karl Druschki and Hugh Dickson were the varieties shown. Open to Groivers of Fewer than 1,000 Plants. Six exhibits of twelve blooms, distinct, in the leading class of this division made quite a good show. Premier honours rested with Mr. Charles Lamplough, Kirkstall, Alverstoke, who is always strong in this class. Superb examples of cultural skill were shown, and their names were Mrs. Foley Hobbs, Gloire de Chedane Guinoisseau, Frau Karl Druschki, Mrs. Welch, Avoca. Mme. Jules Gravereaux, J. B. Clark, Mildred Grant, William Shean, Bessie Brown, Lyon and A. K. Williams. Second prize was secured bv Mrs. Henry Balfour. Langley Lodge, Headington, Oxford, with a very beautiful series. Florence Pemberton, Her iMajesty. Charles Lefeb\Te and Khea Reid being quite good. Third prize was won by Mr. Ernest G. Mocatta, Woburn Place, Addlestone, with a bright and attractive series of blooms of good form. Tliis was a quite excellent stand. Only one entry in Class 48 for nine blooms of any Rose except Tea or Noisette was forthcoming. Frau Karl Druschki, of medium size, winning first prize for Mr. Charles Lamplough. Open to Growers of Feiver than 750 Plants. The leading class for twelve blooms, distinct varieties, found no fewer than six competitors. Premier honours rested with Mr. F. H. Cook, Birch, Colcliester, with a grand lot of blooms, not so well staged as usual. Notable examples were Mildred Grant, Frau Karl Druschki, Gloire de Chedane Guinoisseau, Juliet, Avoca, G. C. Waud, White Maman Cochet and Mrs. Coxhead. A capital box of blooms secured second prize for Mi. E. B. Lehmann, Ifield Lodge, Crawley, Sussex. Ulrich Brunner, Earl of Warwick, Bessie Brown and a superb example of Gloire de Chedane Guinoisseau were noteworthy. A dozen very neat and even, though rather small, blooms won third prize for Mr. Walter Stevens, Fair Oak. Radlett, Herts. The first prize in this class takes the Ben Cant Memorial Prize. The seven entrants in the class for six blooms of any Rose except Tea or Noisette made a welcome show. First prize was awarded to fine examples of Dean Hole, which were shown by the Rev. F. R. Burnside, Great Stam- bridge Rectory, Essex. Large, clean, chaste blooms of Frau Karl Druschki placed Mr. F. R. Biggleston, Jesmond, Puckle Lane, Canterbxu-y, second ; and with Mildred Grant, Mr. F. H. Cook was awarded third prize. Extra Class for Divisions G and E. The seven exhibits in this class made a very excellent display. Mr. Charles Lamplough was again to the fore, winning with good examples, the better blooms being Gloire de Chedane Guinoisseau, Mme. Jules Gravereaux and Mrs. Foley Hobbs, A good second was found in Mr. F. H. Cook, who had Mildred Grant in grand form. Third prize was secured by Mr. F. H. Fieldgate, The Cottage, Shrub End Road, Colchester, Avoca in his stand being very fine. Open to Growers of Fewer thati 500 Plants. Only three entries in Class 52. for twelve blooms, distinct, were shown. Dr. W. P. Panckridge, Petersfleid. Hants, being adjudged first with some really handsome blooms of high quality, Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt (superb), Mrs. Joseph Welch, Mrs. Stewart Clark, Mrs. A. E. Coxhead, Bessie Brown and Florence Pemberton all being note- worthy. Second prize was awarded to Mr. Stuart Hogg, Leaside, Hertingfordbury, with small, neat blooms ; and third prize went to the Rev. F. G. A. Phillips, Taplow Rectory, Bucks, with a good series. Class 53. for six blooms, distinct, was represented by seven entries. A grand lot of blooms won first prize for Mr. H. C. Baker, Bayfordbury. Hprt,ford. Maman Cochet, White Maman Cochet, Dean Hole and G. C. Waud were grand. Mr. J. Smart, Sherwood. Stevenage, was a capital second, and the Rev. H. S. Arkwright, Breinton Vicarage, Hereford, was a pleasing third. The class for six blooim of one variety had only three competitors. Dr. W. P. Panckridge was first with good examples of Dean Hole , Mrs. C. Giddins, Windmore Hall. South Mymms, Herts, was second with Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt, and with Avoca the Rev. F. G. A. Phillips was third. Competition in the classes open to growers of fewer than 350 and 200 plants respectively was very keen, and the most praiseworthy interest was evinced in these classes by a very large number of visitors to the show. The flowers were good in most instances, reflecting great credit on the growers. Those who have never won a prize at an exhibition of the National Rose Society were also provided with classes, and these, as usual, were of considerable interest. Metropolitan classes, too, for growers residing within eight miles of Charing Cross, brought out some very interest- ing competitions, showing how keen is the culture of Roses within the range of London smoke. In Class 73, for six blooms of Lyon Rose and six blooms of Mme. Melauie Soupert, there was only one competitor, who had blooms of a somewhat mixed character. Mr. W. Boyes was awarded first prize, one good bloom of both varieties calling for notice. Class 74, for the Hammond Prize for six blooms, new varieties, distinct, found five competitiors. First prize was won by Mr. G. A. Hammond (the donor). Woodlands, Burgess Hill, Sussex, who showed six beautifully even examples of George Dickson, Mrs. Richard Draper, Mrs. Charles Hunter, Coronation, Frances C. Seton and St. Helena. JMrs. Bevil Fortescue was second, showing Mrs. Joseph Welch and Elizabeth in superb fashion. Third prize was awarded to Mr. H. L. Wettem, Waratah, Sanderstead, Croydon, George Dickson being his best bloom. Exhibition Roses (Tea and Noisette). For the Tea and Noisette Amateur Trophy, for eighteen blooms, distinct varieties, there were five entries, first prize being awarded to Mrs. Bevil Fortescue. The best blooms were White Maman Cochet, Rlrs. Foley Hobbs, Mme. Constant Soupert, Medea, airs. Myles Kennedy, Maman Cochet, Nita Weldon, Molly Sharman Crawford, W. R. Smith, Auguste Comte, La Boule d'Or, Mme. Henri Berger, Mrs. Herbert Stevens, Comtesse de Nadaillac and Miss Alice de Rothschild. A good second was found in Mr. F. Slaughter, who had some noteworthy Roses in his stand — Maman Cochet, White Maman Cochet, W. R. Smith, Mar^chal Niel. The Bride and Mrs. Myles Kennedy, air. C. C. Eversfield was placed third, and on his stand there were a few blooms of exceptional merit. There was but one stand of blooms for Mrs. Alfred Tate's prize of a piece of plate, and this was somewhat poor. First prize was awarded, nevertheless. Only one competitor again was found in the class for eight distinct varieties, three blooms of each. Mrs. Bevil Fortescue was again to the fore, winning first prize with a charming series. The better varieties were Maman Cochet, Mrs. Foley Hobbs, White Maman Cochet, Mrs. Hubert Taylor and Auguste Comte. The two boxes of six blooms of one variety were very beautiful, and the blooms of Wliite Maman Cochet which secured first prize for Sir. T. E. Pallett were a very beautiful lot indeed. They were even and of charming form. Mr. C. C. Eversfield was second with the same variety as the first prize winner, though less meritorious. Open to Groivers of Fewer than 500 Plants. The class for twelve blooms, distinct, is always very interesting, the Rev. J. B. Shackle, Dropmore Vicarage, Maidenhead, leading the four competitors with a lovely series of blooms. The better varieties were Maman Cochet, Mrs. E. Mawley, White Maman Cochet, Mme. Jules Gravereaux and Mrs. Foley Hobbs. Mr. F. H. Cook was awarded second prize with an even series, in beautiful condition ; third, Mrs. Henry Balfour with a pleasing exhibit. Six exhibits in the class for six blooms of one variety were charmingly displayed. Leading honours fell to the Rev. F. R. Burnside with remarkably good blooms of White Maman Cochet. Second went to the Rev. J. B. Shackle for lovely blooms of Maman Cochet, and the third prize was awarded to Mr. F. H. Cook for grand examples of Auguste Comte. Open to Growers of Fewer than 200 Plants. The Prince Memorial Prize, for nine blooms, distinct varieties, found only one competitor in air. H. L. Wettern, who won the first prize with a beautiful series of well- grown blooms. White Maman Cochet, airs, aiyles Kennedy, airs. H. Taylor and airs. Foley Hobbs being noteworthy. Class 83, for six blooms, distinct, was represented by two entries only. Mr. R. de V. Pryor was awarded first prize with a well-finished lot of blooms, Mrs. Foley Hobbs, Mrs. Edward Mawley, Mme. Jules Gravereaux, Maman Cochet and White RIaman Cochet being all that one could desire. A good second was found in Rlr. Charles Lamplough, airs. Foley Hobbs, airs, filyles Kennedy and ftlme. Jules Gravereaux being his best blooms. Class 84, for six blooms of one variety only, was repre- sented by six exhibits, a grand set of blooms of RIrs, Foley Hobbs gaining first prize for Mr. Charles Lamplough. Second prize was won by Mr. H. L. Wettern with Mme. Jules Gravereaux, and with six lovely White aiaman Cochets Mr. H. C. Baker was placed third. Open to Growers of Fewer than 100 Plants. In Class 86, for six blooms in not fewer than four varieties, there werp ten exhibitors. First prize was won by air. C. A. L. Brown, Hatfield Peveril, Essex, with six really capital blooms, air. J. Smart, jun., Shenvood, Stevenage, was second, and third prize was awarded to Mr. Arthur Merehouse, St George's Hill, Horley, Surrey, The class for six blooms, distinct, found Mrs. Denman Murray, Horsenden, Ryde, Isle of Wight, leading the five competitors with quite good blooms. Mrs. F. Peters Wood, Broom Lodge, Weybridge, was second, and the Rev. F. G. A. Phillips was placed third. Class 87, for four trebles, was an extra class for amateurs in Divisions III., IV. and V. A capital lot of blooms won first prize for Mr. F. H. Cook, who had Maman Ck>chet and White aiaman Cochet in beautiful condition. The Rev. F. R. Buraside was placed second, showing superb blooms of the two varieties mentioned in the first prize series. A beautif dl lot won third prize for air. F. Slaughter. In Class 89, for a round basket of Tea or Noisette Roses, the first prize exhibit was very beautiful, aiaman Cochet was splendidly represented in the first prize exhibit of air. F. H. Cook. A good second was seen in the blooms from airs. E. M. Wightman, Bengeo, Herts, who showed aiaman Cochet. Perpetual -flowering Decorative Roses. Class _90, for tliree baskets of cut Roses, three distinct varieties, each variety in a separate basket, was repre- sented by one exhibit only, airs. E. Wightman winning first prize with a charming trio. Ethel, Daphne and Mrs, W. Cutbush were the varieties shown. There were five entries in the class for five stems each of five varieties. A beautiful set won first prize for the Rev. J. B. Shackle. Irish Elegance was well shown. These varieties, we were sorry to see, were not named. Second prize was won by air. J. Hart, who had Lady Ash- tovm, PharisSer, airs. A. Tate, aime. L. Pain and another. Third prize was seciu'ed by air. J. Walter Smith, Sparrows Heme Hill, Bushey Heath, Herts, for a really handsome series of blooms. Dorothy Page- Roberts, Lady Ashtown and Mme. aielanie Soupert were very fine. Decorative Roses. There were no competitors in the class for eighteen distinct varieties, not fewer than three nor more than twelve stems of each variety. In the class for twelve bunches, however, the five exhibits made a grand display, air. H. L. Wettern well won the first prize with a grand lot of bunches, showing, among others, American Pillar, Crimson Rambler, Dorothy Perkins, Blush Rambler, Hiawatha, Da\vn, Ethel, Auguste Comte. Mme. Abel Chatenay and General aiacarthur. Second prize was won by Mr. Ernest G. aiocatta, who had grand bunches 01 Orleans Rose, Crimson Rambler, Dorothy Perkins, Blush Rambler and Irish Elegance. A charming series won third prize for Viscountess Enfield, Dancers' Hill. Bamet. The eight entries in the class for six bunches, distinct, made a most glorious piece of colour. The winning series were those shown by the Rev. J. B. Shackle, and these, again, were unnamed, which is a distinctly unfortunate mistake Mr. J. Walter Smith was placed second with a charming lot, Irish Glory being conspicuous. Lovely bunches won third prize for &Ir. F. A. George, Red Hill, Worcester, who had Grliss an Teplitz and Mme. Alfred Carrifire in good form. Seven entries in Class 97, for six vases of wichuraiana Roses, were beautiful, air. H. L. Wettern again secured leading honours with popular varieties, aiiss Beatrice H. Langton, Raymead, Hendon, N.W., was second with a freely flowered set, Francois Juranville being noteworthy. Third prize was awarded to airs. E. Wightman, who had Dorothy Perkins in beautiful form and colour. Ladies' Artistic Classes. For a basket of cut Roses, lightly arranged with any Rose foliage, there were seven competitors, first prize being awarded to airs. Colston Hales, Virginia Lodge. Warminster, for a distinctly artistic creation. A pink colour scheme won second prize for airs. A. E. Brown, Brookes Lodge, Reigatc, and third prize went to airs. A. E. Clarke, The Hurst, aiottingham. Kent, for American Pillar, in glorious form and coloiur. There were eight showing in the class for a vase of cut Roses, lightly arranged with any Rose foliage. First prize went deservedly to airs. Charles Willianaon, Wilstead, Canterbury, for a wonderful vase of Gloire de Chedane Guinoisseau, in the pink of condition. Second prize was won by airs. J. Walter Smith with Irish Elegance, in lovely form, and third prize went to a warm colour scheme set up by Miss Jessie B. Langton, Raymead, Hendon, N.W. Dorothy Page-Roberts and aiinnehaha were the varieties used. There were seven bowls of Roses in Class 104. Gustavo Regis, as shown by aiiss Jessie B. Langton, and which won first prize, was lovely. A rather formal creation, using Irish Elegance and kindred coloured Hoses, won second prize for airs. Colston Hales, and third prize was secured by airs. J, Walter Smith for a lovely bowl of Irish Elegance. In other decorative classes for bowls, vases, baskets, button-holes, &c.,the competition was very good, and some beautiful artistic creations were oxliibited. The com- petition was very keen, and proves most conclusively how great a hold this aspect of the society's work has upon the ladies. Table decorations were numerous and very daintily arranged. Class 101. fora table decoration of single Rosas, was very popular, and found numerous entrant-s. Premier honours rested with airs. J. Walter Smith for a beautiful table of Rose Irish Elegance, in which lovely sprays of highly coloured blossoms were finely represented. Second jirize was won by airs. Walter aiorrlson, who also used Irish Elegance, displayed in silver vases. In the third prize, won by Countess Olga Pontiatinc, Glebovo, Egerton Road, Weybridge. Irish Elegance was again supreme, being lightly and deftly diBpo3ec|. GARDEN. ;^^sm=^ No. 2227.— Vol. LXXVIII. July 25, 1914. NOTES OF THE WEEK. An Easily Grown Water Lily.— One of the most beautiful and, incidentally, one of the most easily grown of all Water Lilies is Nymph;Ea Marliacea albida. It will make luxuriant leaves and produce a succession of blooms if given about three feet of water. It is one of the freest to bloom, and may be safely recommended for the small garden if given all the sun possible and a pool of still water. It is well known that all Water Lilies prefer still water to a running stream. The flowers are very large, pure white, with light yellow stamens, and are fragrant. Summer Treatment of Violets. — Plants which are intended to produce flowers throughout the winter should receive special attention for the re- mainder of the summer. Stop side shoots as they appear, in order to direct the energies of the plants to the formation of strong crowns, with- out which the results will not be satisfactory. Red spider, which is the most troublesome enemy to contend with, may be kept in check by frequent syringing and light dustings of soot ; but no great quantity of soot should be applied at one time, or the tender foliage may suffer in consequence. Keep the soil stirred with a Dutch hoe, and if dry weather sets in, a good watering of clear soft water should be given. The Nankeen Lily. — This beautiful Lily, L. testaceum, is totally distinct in colour, as the clear nankeen tint is not seen in any other. It is said to be of hybrid origin, and certainly in many points it resembles the supposed parents, the scarlet Turk's-cap Lily, Lilium chalcedonicum, and the Madonna Lily, L. candidum. In growth and size of flower it resembles the latter, while the flowers are prettily reflexed as in the former. Established plants imder favourable conditions grow from 6 feet to 7 feet high, with horizontally poised heads of drooping flowers, which have bright red anthers. It is a plant that will grow in light, sandy loam better than many other Lilies, and, like the Madonna Lily, it should only be disturbed when absolutely necessary. Interesting British Plants. — Among the more interesting British plants that have been sent to the Cambridge Botanic Garden in the past year ate : Gladiolus illyricus, found in the New Forest and the Isle of Wight ; Lathyrus maritimus, the Sea Pea, a local species growing on pebbly seashores ; Erica Mackaii, found in Galway and in Spain ; Nepeta Glechoma f. hirsuta, a pallid micranthous form, found on the downs above Merrow in Surrey ; Viola riviniana f . luxurians, Mr. Bickham's White Violet ; SaUx Grahamii, supposed to have been brought from Frouvyn in Sutherland by Professor Graham ; Saxifraga umbrosa, from South Kerry ; a Wallflower from Colchester and Guildford Castles (from these A BEAUTIFUL WHITE WATER LILY : ALBIDA. nympHjEa marliacea and other castles always apparently the same form) ; Verbascum species, a critical form found in the grounds of Emmanuel College ; and Ulmus minor (MiUer), an interesting Elm recently found wild near Chatteris. A Beautiful Strain of Hybrid Calceolarias.— One of the principal features in the conservatory at the Cambridge Botanic Garden is a display of hybrid Calceolarias, the result of crossing C. The Bronze Age with C. Clibranii. The plants are of a graceful branching habit, from 1 8 inches to 2 feet high. The flowers vary from deep rich brown to bright yellow, many being beautifully spotted, and are borne in great profusion. Rose Lady Alice Stanley. — ^This splendid Rose has done wonderfully well with us again this year, and we regard it as one of the best rose pink varieties for garden decoration. The blooms are fragrant, large, and held erect on stout stems, and the large, leathery leaves are seldom affected \vith mildew. This Rose ought to be in every garden. The Mount Etna Broom (Genista aetnensis). — This is a most effective Broom" during July and August, a season when flowering shrubs are not plentiful. Its graceful cord- like, arching, pendulous branches are almost hidden by the myriads of golden flowers. In common with the majority of the family, this Broom is happy upon rough, dry banks or in warm, light soils, which satisfy few things. As its name indicates, it comes from Moimt Etna in Sicily, and appears to be perfectly hardy. It is readily raised from seeds, which are freely produced. This is the best means of increasing it, and as it is a fast grower, a good plant is soon obtained. It usually grows about ten feet high, but a fine speci- men we saw the other day was almost twice that height and equally as far through, making a conspicuous feature against a background of large conifers. Sweet Pea Week in London. — Sweet Pea enthusiasts had quite a busy time in London last week. The National Sweet Pea Society held its fourteenth annual show on Thursday, and followed it by a reception and dinner at the Hotel Windsor in the evening, when the innovation of a musical programme, generously pro- vided by Messrs. James Carter and Co., was thoroughly enjoyed by a large gathering of members and friends. On Friday a number of members visited the society's trials at the Burbage Experimental Station, Burbage, Leicestershire, where Major Hurst very kindly met the visitors and later in the day explained some of the very interesting experiments that he is conducting on MendeUan lines with animals and plants. It is satisfactory to note that no fewer than t45 new members have joined the National Sweet Pea Society this year, and that twenty-two additional societies have become af&liated. A report of the London show will be found on another page. 374 THE GARDEN. [July 25, 1914. CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents.) Ostrowskia magniflca in Berkshire. — I enclose a photograph of a plant of Ostrowskia magnifica growing in the gardens here. As will be seen, the plant is growing at the foot of a wall which faces east, and the position appears to suit it well, the growth this year having reached the' height of 6 feet. Last week, when at its best, it had fifteen fully expanded flowers open at one time, the largest being nearly eight inches in diameter. — E. W. Die, The Gardens, Bowden Green, Pang- bnurne, Berks. Cyclamen neapolitanum and its Seeds. — Surely there are few plants so tardy in maturing and ripening their seeds as is the above. Flowering as it does in August and September, it is usuaUv the following June before we gather ripe pods from it, and there are many now (July 13) which have still to be gathered. When ripe, the seeds are at once sown in shallow boxes in a compost con- sisting largely of decayed leaf-mould and Cocoanut fibre, mth an admixture and surfacing of fine loam. It is usually three years before the seedlings com- mence to flower. — F. Herbert Chapman. Lilium giganteum in Scotland. — When visiting the gardens of Mr. T. Bennet Clark at Newmills, Balemo, Midlothian, oiv July ro, I noted, among a host of good things, two fine specimens of the above Lily in fuU flower. Both had flower- stems about six and a-half feet high ; one bore eight flowers and the other eleven. Mr. Bennet Clark tells me that he frequently has this Lilium in flower. He raises his own stock from offsets, this being a saving of time as compared with seedlings (which some prefer), as they take about ten years to flower from the date of sowing. — Charles Comfort. New Rambling Roses. — In reply to'your corre- spondent " E. M." on page 350, issue July 11, I must say I have not grown Neige d'Avril, but Fraulein O. Hesse I have had for some time, an consider it a lovely Rose, but not white. I do not call Kaiserin Augusta Victoria white. Since penning my first notes I have flowered Sanders' White, Snowdrift and Mrs. M. H. Walsh, all really grand whites. The first named is the snowiest white ; but Snowdrift appeals to me more for its effectiveness. Pemberton's White Rambler will be valuable among the multiflora section, and a splendid companion to the old Crimson Rambler. Danecroft. The Naming of Plants. — I undertook recently to name the flowers in a large garden in the North, but found that there were over twenty perennials I could not identify. Naturally, I hied to the nearest authorities, and, in order to ensure correct- ness, sent away duplicate sets of plants, one to the Botanic Gardens in the city close to us, and one to a large seed firm who had men specially " well up " in herbaceous plants. Now the results were astounding ; in some five cases the actual genera were not the same, while over fifty per cent, of the others varied in the species. Without disparaging the excellent assistance given me in both cases, let me ask who is the authority ? The garden in question is a very old one. On consulting my " Nicholson " I find room for doubt in the case of some names given, and even in that large work only a small number of species are noted. Again, suppose I have an unknown flower, how can I get it identified ? Does the science of classification remain in the hands of a few experts at Kew, and what authority is their knowledge based on ? (The " Kew Index " probably, but how few libraries have it.) Wanting to get at the root of the matter, I have already made those enquiries, and have been answered ; the gist of the answer being that I ought to study the " Floras" of various countries if I want to identify flowers myself !l|Here, again, are difficulties ; must I keep aU the " Floras " (our largest library in Scotland does not have them), and must I hunt through them all till I get my flower identified ? Take the case of an ordinary gar- dener with an " unkno\vn " ; he has " Nicholson," which is worse than useless in this case ; he studies catalogues of flowers and looks at pictures — also A WELL-GROWN PLANT OF OSTROWSKIA MAGNIFICA. bad ; he has not a classification table extensive enough to include all genera, even if he could work it ; finally, he goes to " someone else " who Icnows better. Then we arrive at the original question — who is the authority, and does a full loiowledge of classification rest in the hands of a chosen few ? The question is opportune and interesting ; but if the answer is as I suspect, surely we have need for some remedy ! — H. H. A. Bishop's Weed, Cow Parsley and the Roman Nettle. — Mr. Brotherston's humour seems to be of a very virulent kind. It is pleasing to know that the poor, neglected, ill-treated Bishop's Weed has at'least one champion, and one who knows its virtues, though only supposed. But why resurrect King James ? Certainly it is difficult to see the point concerning Cow Parsley and its need for cultivation, unless it be to make botanising easier, though really much less interesting. One plant more should interest Mr. Brotherston ; it is the Giant Roman Nettle (Urtica piluUfera). The writer remembers a fine patch of this plant growing in a garden in Kent. Every plant grew about six feet high, stout and strong in proportion, and truly a fitting monument to the ancient warriors who spread themselves over that fair county hundreds of years ago. — H. R., Holland. Notes on Last Week's " Correspondence " Columns. — In your " Correspondence " columns last week I noted several most interesting topics on which I should like to comment, if you will allow me. The first concerned " The Most Fragrant Rose " (with a %vitty allusion to the Apostle and Prophet). I rejoice greatly to see the question of fragrance to the fore. It has been too long neglected. The next paragraph dealt with the appropriate naming of new plants, from " A. E. G.," a New Zealand writer, with whose opinions on the subject I strongly agree. I think especially the selection of personal names is objectionable, and ofttimes absurd. A friend recently desired to name a new Dahlia after me, an honour I hastened to decline ; for, being no longer young or slim, I thought how terrible it would be to read remarks like the following in The Garden : " Anne Amateur is of an old- fashioned type, now rarely seen, and, though of a fresh rosy tint, successfully enduring exposure to the strongest sunshine, and hardily resisting both ^torm and frost, is lacking in lightness and grace, and utterly superseded by more modem and attractive specimens." Then followed a most interesting note on " Lightness In Table Decora- tions," from H. A. Elliott. On this I venture these observations. To me Sweet Peas and Gypsophila long ago became wearisome. Though a good combination, it was a case of toujours per- drix, and made me feel like the London apprentices who in bygone days stipulated that they should not have salmon for dinner too often ! For my part I think table decoration should vary in accord with the style of the dinner. With roast beef and plum pudding as principal items, bowls of Roses would go very well ; while the flowers for a meal consisting chiefly of what our forefathers termed " kick-shaws " should be dainty in tint and light and airy in arrangement. I sometimes de- vise schemes for, and send flowers from my country garden to, a friend who (luckless woman !) has to give dinners in London in the season. One which met with great approval, on a broiling June even- ing, was as follows : In a large cut-glass centre bowl floated a few Water-Lily-like, small white single Pseonies, on leaves of the Winter Coltsfoot (Tussilago fragrans), real Water Lilies and leaves being then unobtainable. Some Limnanthes Douglasi counterfeited Water Crow's-foot. Round this little cool-looking LUy pond rose, in slender clear cut-glass vases, yellow Spanish Iris, with old-fashioned striped green and white Ribbon Grass and some wild Grasses. These stood on snaall glass plateaux placed on moss green plush. The guests voted the whole a great success. In con- clusion, at the end of the " Correspondence " columns I came with surprise on my own name and an allusion to my village friend's recipe for White Rose ointment, with a request for a picture of the old ointment pipkin, which I will endeavour to send shortly. (Photographers are rather rare in the remote regions where I write.) — Anne Amateur. July 25, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 375 Rose Mme. Edouard Herriot. — I wonder how many amateurs have grown this Rose since it was sold by the nurserymen last autumn. No wonder such a great deal was written about it in the papers after it had received the Gold Cup. I have had four or five blooms off my plant. They are indeed a wonderful colour, and quite unique for a Rose. I can best describe the tints by likening them to that of the Sweet Peas Helen Lewis and Sterling Stent, which have been out at the same time as the Rose, and, putting them side by side, they have absolutely agreed with the Rose in colour. This is undoubtedly a great acquisition in the Rose world, and if lovers of Roses have not been fortunate enough to secure a plant this summer, they should lose no oppor- tunity of securing one next November. • I am so delighted with mine that I cannot help singing its praises for the benefit of others. — Honor T. Pitts, The Rectory, Loughborough. Rose American Pillar. — I can fully corroborate the remarks of your correspondent " H. G. B." on page 350, issue July 11, as to the merits of this beautiful climbing Rose. Like him, I purchased a plant from Messrs. Cannell and Sons when it was first introduced a few years ago, and since then it has been greatly admired by all. My only surprise is that even now so few are conscious of its merits. My own opinion is that in a few years' time, when more generally known, it will take premier position among rambling Roses. Many may be interested to know that it does equally well from cuttings planted in Septem- ber in the open ground. In spite of the great merits of Blush Rambler and Dorothy Perkins, to my mind American Pillar surpasses them all. Good plants can be purchased at very moderate prices now, so there is no excuse for not possessing this charming Rose. While on the topic of Roses, I should be glad for information respecting another favourite of mine, Zephyrine Drouhin. — W. B. C, Maidstone. [Our correspondent does not indicate what sort of information he desires about Rose Zephyrine Drouhin. It is a great favourite with us on account of its wonderful fragrance, dainty carmine pink colour, and freedom of flowering. It is a Hybrid Bourbon, and does best grown as a large bush or pillar. Its stems are thomless. — Ed.] The Most Fragrant Rose.— It is to be hoped the judges for the Clay Challenge Cup wiU keep in mind beauty of form as well as fragrance when making their awards in the future. There was much diversity of opinion expressed at the Holland House Show regarding the decision of the judges, and many thought Mrs. George Norwood should have received the award. This Rose has a most perfect form and charming colour, and for fragrance is quite equal to the Rose that received the award, which from the illustration you gave on page 352 has no beauty of form to recommend it. The National Rose Society have very wisely recognised fragrance in their new rules for judging Roses for their gold medal, and no doubt raisers will give this matter due consideration ; but I feel sure I shall have the majority of Rose-lovers vrith me when I claim for form that recognition it undoubtedly deserves. I was glad to find that the most beautifully formed novelty exhibited at the recent " National " Rose Show, namely, Mrs. Bertram Walker, possessed a delicious fragrance, and the judges were unanimous in awarding it a gold medal. I may say I do not like the term " scent " as applied to Roses and other flowers. The Crown Imperial has a spept most obnoxious to one's sense of smell, and Mr. Sawer in his excellent work, " Rhodologia," speaks of Rosa platyacantha, R. Capucine and R. beggeri- ana even developing an odour of bugs and coriander. He also asserts that cut Roses placed in a vase diffuse their fragrance more powerfully than when growing on the plant, so that, even for this, should not the award be withheld until the varieties are compared growing upon the plants ? — l^ANECROFT. The Horseshoe Fern. — I have seen the note by Mr. L. Stowe on this subject in the issue of April 11, and was surprised at his claim that the Fern is very rare and only known to grow in the vicinity of Mount Egmont. I quote from " Ferns of New Zealand," by H. C. Field, C.E., Member of the New Zealand Institute : " Marattia fraxinea. Para, Para Reka, or Para Tawhiti of the Maoris. Horseshoe Fern of the Europeans. This Fern is found in Guinea, Angola, Zambesi-land, Mascaren Islands, Natal, Cape Colony, the Neilgherries, Ceylon, Philip- pines, Malacca, Polynesia, Queensland, and Norfolk Island, besides New Zealand. It was formerly plentiful in the North Is'and (N.Z.), where its tuberous roots formed an important article of food, and caused the Maoris to assert they had a Potato before Cook visited the Colony. The wild pigs, however, have nearly exterminated it, so that it is only now found in a few localities, extending from the North Cape to a little south of Mount Egmont." Mr. Field also states it is the only plant of the genus Marattia in New Zealand, that it is only found in very wet, almost boggy, ground, and is easily cultivated in rich soil, kept well saturated with water, that cattle and horses both eat greedily of the fronds, which are said to grow as much as 14 feet high. I have specimens about five feet high which came from Waiuku, Buckland and Paparimu, bush districts all within forty-five miles of Auckland. I am told they are fairly plentiful on the Coro- mande! peninsula ; and the district of Kaipara takes its name (Kai = food, and para = the edible Fern) from the prevalence of this plant in old times. A few years back I visited a fine group of Horseshoe Ferns (known here also as the King Fern) at Buckland, thirty-three miles south of Auckland, where the owner had reserved a clump of bush and fenced it to protect the Ferns from pigs and cattle, and I then saw specimens with fronds I could walk under. However, as Mr. Field says, they are fast disappearing wherever pigs and cattle range the bush, and it is only a matter of time when they will be very difficult to find growing in a state of Nature in New Zealand. — A. E. Grindrod, Woodside Road, Auckland, New Zealand. THE SUMMER TREATMENT OF LAWNS. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. July 28. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting and National Gladiolus Society's Combined Show at Vincent Square, Westminster. July 29. — Flower Shows at Bishop's Stortford and Castleton. July 30. — Midland Carnation Show at Edgbaston Botanic Gardens (two days). Royal Lancashire Agricultural Show at Liverpool (four days). Killamey Summer Show. August I. — Societe Franpiise de Horticulture de Londres Meeting. Dumbarton Sweet Pea Show. August 3. — Flower Show at Carshalton. August 4. — Flower Show at Abbey Park, Leicester (two days). Scottish Horticultural Association's Meeting. I HAVE read with great interest your editorial note on mowing lawns without a grass- box, page 349, issue July 11. You draw attention to the great benefit derived by the lawn from the cut grass being left to decay, but you state as a drawback that the clippings would interfere with play if the lawn were used for tennis or croquet. It may therefore interest my fellow-readers of The Garden if I describe a device by which it is possible to leave the clippings even on a putting green. While staying at North Berwick last month I walked over the links early one morning before breakfast. The men were working on the greens, and were carrying out an operation which from a distance greatly puzzled me. I walked up to them and found that they were sweeping the greens with long Bamboo poles. It appeared that the mowing had just been completed, and that the sweeping had the effect not only of spreading the clippings, but of rubbing them in and causing them to disappear. The Bamboos were about fifteen feet long. The butt was thick enough to be stiff for nearly eight feet, and this enabled the " waggly " end to be kept low and flat. Sweeping was done from side to side, and caused no fatigue. Playing over the greens later in the day, no one would have known but what every stray blade of grass had been studiously removed. The greens were as true as billiard tables. If this is possible on a putting green, on which one plays with a light and easily deflected ball, no difficulty ought to occur in the case of games such as tennis, croquet or bowls. Moreover, the greater length to which grass is allowed to grow on tennis and croquet " greens " would make it all the easier to " rub in " the clippings. The whole secret lies in frequent mowing, so that the clippings are never long. Grass sufficient to form a crop of hay could obviously not be disposed of. But then mowing without a grass- box is so very much less laborious that frequent momng may result in a saving of time and effort. If you can spare the space, I should like to have an opportunity of stating my firm conviction that to leave on cut grass is the best of all possible means of manuring a lawn. All of us who are interested in farming know that land under grass slowly accumulates fertility. But if the land is heavily cropped, as happens to a lawn which is regularly mown with a grass-box from March to October, the exhausting process is more rapid than the accumulation of fertility. The finer grasses starve to death, and there remain only weeds, which can find a living practically anywhere. If, however, the grass is left on, nothing is taken out of the land, and it becomes richer and richer every year. This slow process of enrichment produces a totally different effect from the sudden application of powerful manure. I have applied the latter myself to lawns, and 1 have also watched the results in the gardens of friends. In every case the result has been eventual ruin. The explanation seems to be tliis : In a starved lawn the only vigorous subjects of the grass tribe are coarse things, such as the Poas and Yorkshire Fog. These alone are in sufficient health to benefit from stimulating food. (Do we not know Miss JekyU's saying that to give manure to a sickly plant is like feeding a delicate child on beef steak and brandy ?) Landowner. 3-76 THE GARDEN. [July 25, 1914. THE MORE DIFFICULT DIANTHUSES. {Conliniicd from page 366.} A LTHOUGH a number of people have /% no difficulty with some of the Dian- / % thuses now mentioned, many cultiva- A~"^% tors find - them more troublesome ' ^ than the others, and I have, therefore, thought it desirable to write of thetn separately. They will generally thrive in a moraine, and can also be successfully treated m well-drained parts of the rock garden if surfaced cause. D, callizonus is exquisite with its 2-inch or 3-inch stems bearing large flowers of brilliant pink, charmingly zoned and spotted at the base with a deeper hue. The bluish foliage sets off the beauty of the blooms. A few young plants, raised from cuttings or division, should always be kept. A cool, stony, peaty soil should be tried. It is a lime-hater. May and June. D. Freynii. — There is a good deal of confusion existing respecting D. Freynii, D. Lereschii and D. microlepis. D. Freynii, however, is a most exc[uisite little plant, forming tufts of small green leaves rising but little above the soil. Above these are borne tinv flowers of rose or rose purple D. neglectus. — 1 may be called in question for including this among the more difficult subjects. The true form has grassy leaves and, on short stems not more than 4 inches or 6 inches high, lovely flowers of bright carmine with the backs of a kind of nankeen colour. It is said to be unsuitable for the moraine, but this is not the case ever5'where. I have grown it well on a flat part of the rockerj-, surfaced with fine gravel and grit, in peaty soil, and treated to good soakings of water in the summer months. Cuttings for the best forms, and seeds. May and June. D. nitidUS. — A dainty little plant, apparently a miniature form of D. alpinus, and calling for the same treatment. It therefore requires no further mention. D. sylvestris. — Reputedly difficult, this Pink IS not really so, but it may die off suddenly without any apparent reason. Belying its name of sylvestris, it is a lover of dry, open, stony places, and should be grown in the moraine or in dry soil with plenty of grit and surfaced with gravel or chips. It has small grassy leaves and red flowers on stems 9 inches high. May to July. Dumfries. S. Arnott. THE FUTURE OF THE ANTIRRHINUM. DIANTHUS CALLIZONUS, A BEAUTIFUL DWARF PINK FOR THE ROCK GARDEN. with an inch or 2 inches of large grit or small gravel or chips. DianthUS alpinus. — This lovely species is quite easy with many growers, but others, through some obscure cause, find it difficult to cultivate.. It has a preference for partial shade when on the rockery, but does not appear to be so particular on the moraine, in which it apparently delights. D. alpinus has large flowers of rose or pink, charmingly spotted with deeper colour at the base, and raised on stems 3 inches or 4 inches in length. The white variety, though pretty, is iLOt so charming as the type. Under the name of superbus there is a large bright variety offered, as well as some so-called hybrids, which do not appear to be any improvement upon the lovely D. alpinus. It is easily raised from seeds or increased by division. May to July. D. cal-alpinus. — Those who despair of cul- tivating D. callizonus may well attempt the ex- quisite D. cal-alpinus, the offspring of the marriage of D. callizonus and D. alpinus. It is a handsome plant with good rose flowers, effectively zoned with crimson. It does well on a sunny rockery or the moraine. It is raised from cuttings, and flowers in May and June. D. callizonus. — Mr. Irving and the staff of Kew are to be envied the success with which they cultivate this lovely Dianthus there. It has a baffling habit of dying off without apparent on short stems, the whole completing a picture which appeals to the alpinist. I have found that this will thrive on a level spot on the rockery if mulched with grit or fine gravel, and in a well- drained place, but watered during dry weather in late spring and summer. The moraine is the ideal place for it. It does not object to lime, but has no preference for it. June to August. D. Lereschii should have rose flowers, those of D. microlepis being white with lilac spots at the base. D. glacialis. — The despair of many, the Glacier Pink is yet one of the flowers which are so exquisite that it well repays almost any amount of care. It is not, however, so very difficult in the ordinary sense of the term, except that it may die off even after we have indulged it by giving the prescribed treatment which has proved the best. This is a cool place, well drained but not too dry, but in a peaty soil, or one composed of loam, leaf- mould and sand with some grit in it. No lime should be given. It also requires plenty of water while growing. It has narrow leaves in tufts, and handsome pink flowers, rather smaller than those of D. alpinus. It is. in fact, not so desirable as the Alpine Pink. D. gelidus is generally considered a form of the Glacier Pink. It is smaller, and has pink flowers spotted with white at the throat. The sarne treatment suits it. April and May, TH.\T the Antirrhinum is rapidly rising in popularity is now so apparent that it is unnecessary to labour the point ; but one may feel sure of one's ground in asserting that very soon it will be the leading favourite with those wlio want a subject for either small beds or broad masses where a prolonged displav of bright colours is desired. Nurserymen and seedsmen have awakened to the possibilities of Antirrhinums, and a good many firms are devoting considerable attention to building up strains and sets of really good varie- ties. Before long, doubtless, growers will set themselves to the task of bringing out the best that is in the Antirrhinum by growing on single stems, pinching out all lateral growths — [We hope not. — Ed.] — and by systematic feeding. It is well that some thought shall at this stage be given to the future of the plant, for while it is in every way desirable that the work of selection and improvement shall be diligently pursued, it is devoutly to be hoped that no craving for sensationalism shall take hold of admirers of Antirrhinums, which would sooner or later prove baneful rather than beneficial. First, there is the possibiUty of the introduction of a host of named varieties. It seems to me it will be posi- tively dangerous to the well-being of the Antir- rhinum to tolerate the thrusting upon the market of a great many varieties under meaningless and useless names, simply because they are slightly different in colour from others. Antirrhinimis may, of course, be propagated from cuttings with the greatest of ease ; but if, in order to meet a sliort-lived demand for a novelty, resort is had to rapid multiplication by propagating under glass, it will not be long before the sturdy vigour and immunity from pests and diseases is destroyed. Let good strains suffice, and let us adhere as closely as possible to the rational method of raising from seed. It may be all very well to grow a small number of plants on the single stem principle, to disbud, JiULY ^5, I9I4.] THE GARDEN. 377 and to feed judiciously in order to produce a iEew extra good spikes of flower ; but do not lett'iis fancy become a mania. Do not start an Antirrhinum society and offer challenge cups f^r spikes valued by the yard ; but let the natural and beautiful bush-like habit, the free and con- tinuous blooming propensities, and the sturdy constitution of the plant be jealously guarded and carefully preserved, and we shall be long able to enjoy one 'of. the most serviceable and beautiful of plants, which, while worthy of gracing the most favoured of gardens, is accommodating enough to adorn the humblest and most unpre- tentious garden of the handicapped suburban ^mateur. Heather Bell, DISEASES OF TOMATO. TH E ^HE Tomato is a plant which has become popular only within the last few years, yet in a short space of time it has piroved ihbst" susceptible' to attaclis of various fungi which are of the greatest virulence and spread with astounding rapidity Even more curious still, and unfor- tunate, too, is the fact that no cure, no reliable cure, can be found for any of them, and the only course open to the gardener is to ensure freedom for his plants by first-class culture coupled with extreme care at all times. Fresh turfy loam, or sterilised composts where extensive supplies of new material are not available, is the first great desidera- tum. Since the seeds carry spores of the diseases, clean seed or sterilised seed is almost essential, and when the plants are in active growth, health, vigour and sturdiness must be secured at all costs. A close, stagnant atmosphere in the green- house is most inimical to the health of the plants, and good feeding, but not " high " nitrogenous feeding, will be found to bring success. At the end of the summer, when the weather may chance to be close and " muggy," iveep a little heat in the pipes to assist the air currents, to maintain a clear, buoyant atmosphere, and to banish that dank, stuffy, moist air that is the very harbinger of disease. Black Spot. — This fungus (Macro- sporium Solani) also attacks the Potato and causes the foliage of those plants to curl. In the Tomato the fruit is most commonly attacked, but a careful examination of the plants will probably show black or brown blotches on the stems and leaves. The disease generally begins as a pitted black spot near the eye or top of the fruit, and it spreads in rings, which are covered with a black velvet skin. Infection can only take place through a wound of the fruit ; hence overfeeding leads to prevalence of the disease, since it induces cracks in the ripening Tomatoes. Avoid applying liquid fertilisers made from fresh manure, pull off fruits which show the fungus, and use them as soon as possible. Keep the place well aired and fairly dry. Moist, stagnant atmosphere causes the spores to spread. Black Stripe. — ^This is another very common disease difficult to get rid of once it finds a place inside the greenhouse. It appears at the lower parts of the plant first, but soon spreads upwards, first along the stem and then over the leaves. Do not scrape off the black streaks, for by this you are merely sowing the spores. Plants, especially when sprayed with fungicide, frequently recover, but never do well. The best plan is to dispose of any infested plant, to spray surround- ing specimens with fungicide, and to dress the soil round about with quicklime. Leaf Rust. — This disease is not so common as either of the above. It is characterised by yellow or light brown patches spreading over the leaves, which are really colonies of a fungus known as Cladosporium ^ fulvum. This rust is fostered by bad ventilation and too much foliage on the plants. Defoliate a little more freely to allow free play of air among the plants, be sure to burn badly infested leaves, and, if the rust is again noticed, use a fungicide. Sleepy Disease. — This disease — and a destruc- tive and quick-acting one it is — makes its presence soil should be dressed witli quicklime and sterilised in the winter, or new compost replaced. Bacteriosis. — This disease is held to be caused by a bacterium called P>acillus solanacearum, which also attacks the Potato. Tomato plants attacked by it begin to droop and die at the top. The disease gradually works its way down the plant, the leaves curl up and become marked with yellow spots. The fruits are attacked eventually, and soon the whole plant is useless. Burn all attacked plants, for there is no cure. The germs may be carried by insects from one plant to another, so use the liver of sulphur solution mentioned below immediately the presence of the bacillus is suspected. Bordeaux mixture, with half an ounce to an ounce of copper sulphate per gallon, is a good fungicide ; but almost equally efficacious is liver of sulphur solution containing an ounce of that chemical and four ounces of soft soap in every two gallo-is. The Board of Agriculture recommends the admixture of an ounce of Paris Green with every ten gallons of Bordeaux mixture used in the case of bacteriosis. A perusal of these brief notes shows the wisdom of careful work on scientific lines. Prevention must ever be the fetish of the Tomato-grower, DIANTHUS NEGLECTUS, A SPECIES WITH LARGE BRIGHT CARMINE FLOWERS. known by a sudden drooping of the foliage from, no apparent cause, followed rapidly by the death of the plant. The stems near the soU appear covered with a dense white mould, turning brown in time. If the skin is removed from the stem, it is found to be black or brown underneath, and a section of the stem shows the internal tissues to be in a very unhealthy state. All suspected plants should be isolated immediately, and burned if it turns out to be a case of sleepy disease. There is absolutely no cure, but the for oiily in that way can he ever hope to secure the acme of success. H. H. A. AQUILEGIA STUARTII. Of the many beautiful garden subjects which the Aquilegia family provides, few can compare in grace of form and delicacy of colouring with Stuart's Columbine. This dainty plant is said to be a hybrid between A. glandulosa and A. Witmannii. and was raised by Dr. Stuart. The 378 THE GARDEN. [July 25, 1914. flowers have sepals of a clear fuU blue, while the petals forming the cup-like coroUa are cream. The foliage is neat and dwarf, slender stalks holding aloft the delicately poised flowers, which are of very considerable size. This Aquilegia is said to come true from seed, but as I have not raised this form I cannot speak from experience. From the results I have had in raising other species of Columbine, however, I should consider this a remarkable feature in a family so prone to hybridise. My experience ivith the lovely A. alpina is that, if fortunate, one in a hundred seedlings may be something like the plant. The strongest plants usually follow sowing in situ and thinning out to prevent overcrowding, while a cool, deep, well-drained, gritty compost appears to be rehshed. Other particularly attractive Columbines for some cool ledge in the rock garden are A. cserulea, J lovely blue, long-spurred species from the Rockies ; A. canadensis, scarlet and gold, and its nana form ; A. chrysantha, which sometimes attains a height of 3 feet 6 inches and is of a soft yellow and pink tone ; and A. pyrenaica, a dainty Columbine resembling A. alpina, though paler in colour and rather dwarfer. The accompanying illustration indicates how attractive an irregular group of A. Stuartii may be when introduced in the neighbourhood of dwarf shrubs on some stony ledge in the alpine garden. R. A. Malbv. AyUlLEGIA STUARTII, A BEAUTIFUL HYBRID COLUMBINE WITH BLUE AND CREAM COLOURED FLOWERS. earlier-flowering relatives, unsuitable for the some evergreen leaves. A native of the Southern SUMMER-FLOWERING MAGNOLIAS. A LTHOUGH the summer-flowering Mag- /% nolias fail to produce the wonderful / \ profusion of bloom which is such a / % characteristic feature of the earlier- •^ *- flowering kinds, their blossoms are wonderfully beautiful, and in some instances they are borne over a period of several months. Unfortunately, the plants are, like their colder parts of the country, and for that reason they are sometimes thought to be more tender than they really are, and are therefore excluded from gardens where they might reasonably be expected to thrive. Sweet soil on the moist side and fairly free from lime suits them admirably, perhaps the most satisfactory rooting medium of all being formed by digging a little peat and leaf-mould into light loam. Magnolia grandiflora is one of the most im- portant summer-flowering species, for it is worth growing both on account of its fine flowers and hand- IHE SWAMP BAY MAGNOLIA (M. GLAUCA). United States, it is there known as the Bull Bay, and grows into a tree of timber size. Here it varies a good deal, according to the position it occupies. In the South and West Counties it is a famiUar object as a large bush or small tree in the open ground, but in other places it is usually planted against high walls. In either position it is an eminently satisfactory plant, for its fragrant white flowers, which are often 9 inches or more across, are borne from early July until late September. The leaves on different plants vary in character. As a rule they are oblong in form and from 7 inches to ID inches long, thick and leathery. Some, however, are covered by a dense, reddish brown pubescence on the tmder surface, while others are quite plain, intermediate kinds also being found. Several forms have been selected for varietal names. The best of all is gloriosa, a form with shapely leaves and large, handsome, cup- shaped blossoms, the petals of which are con- spicuous by reason of their beautiful shape and the purity of their colour. Angustifolia and lanceolata are distinguished by their narrow leaves, ferruginea by the reddish under surface of its foliage, tmdulata by the undulating margins of its leaves, and variegata by its variegated leaves. The last named cannot be very highly recommended. M. hypoleuca is a handsome deciduous tree from Japan. In that country it grows 70 feet or 80 feet high, but it has not attained half that height in this country up to the present, and good examples are rare. In leafage it most closely resembles the North American M. tripetala, the leaves being very large and handsome. The flowers are, however, more attractive than those of that species, for they are larger, more fragrant, and the petals of greater substance. The pet.ils are alternately white and cream, and the stamens crimson. Expanded flowers are often 8 inches across. The bright red fruits are also of great decorative value. M. Fraseri is one of the better-known kinds from the Southern United States, where it forms a tree quite 40 feet high. Here it often develops with a short trunk and large rounded head. Its July 25, 1914] THE GARDEN. 379 handsome deciduous leaves are often over a foot long and 7 inches or 8 inches wide, while its creamy white or pale buff, fragrant flowers are from 6 inches to 8 inches in diameter. It may be considered as one of the hardier sorts. M. glauoa, sometimes called the Swamp Bay or Laurel Magnolia, may be either evergreen or deciduous, according to the locality from which the seeds were derived. It has a wide distribution in the United States, and plants from the more southerly limits are usually evergreen. Here it forms a bush 12 feet or 15 feet high, with oval leaves 3 inches to 5 inches long, the upper surface green and the under side glaucous. The white, cup-shaped flowers are between 2 inches and 3 inches across, and borne over a period of quite three months. M. macrophylla is one of the aristocrats of the family, not only in flowers, but in foliage also. In its home in the Southern United States it grows into a large tree, but there are few really fine examples in this country, the best being in the garden of H.R.H. the Duchess of Albany at Claremont. The leaves of this species are some- times 18 inches long and 8 inches or g inches across, bluish green above ind silvery beneath. The fragrant flowers are pale yellow or deep cream in colour and 9 inches or more across. It is not very hardy in a young state, but after the first few years it appears to be better able to with- stand cold. M. tripetala, the Umbrella Tree or Elk- wood of the United States, is also a decora- tive tree, for it has large leaves sometimes more than a foot long, and large white flowers, which are succeeded by showy red fruits. Between it and M. glauca a hybrid has been raised which is known imder the name of M. thompsoniana. It is of rather loose habit and intermediate in clia acter between the parents, perhaps more free flowering than either. The white blossoms arc borne from Jtme to August. M. Delavayi is a new tree from Yunnan, In that country it grows upwards of forty feet high, but it is doubtful whether it will form a tree in this country except in the mildest localities, for it is not very hardy, even against a wall near London, the younger wood being liable to injury if a severe spell of frost is experienced. The evergreen leaves are large and handsome, 7 inches to 12 inches long, 5 inches to 7 inches wide, and, on vigorous plants, of a bluish green colour. The creamy white flowers are 6 inches to 8 inches across, rather cup-shaped and fragrant. M. acuminata, the Cucumber Tree of the United States, is perhaps the hardiest of all Magnolias, and at the same time the least orna- mental. It grows into a tree 40 feet or 50 feet high in this country, with leaves 6 inches to 9 inches long and 3 inches to 5 inches wide, and ARCHWAY AND FLOWER BORDERS IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN AT HARLEYFORD. with small greenish flowers, which are succeeded by small Cucumber-like fruits ; hence the common name. Closely allied to this is the smaller-growing M. cordata, also a native of the United States. Its yellowish flowers are more showy than those of the last named, but of no special merit. With the exception of M. grandiflora — the most important of them all by virtue of its beautiful flowers and handsome evergreen foliage — the summer-flowering Magnolias are not so well known as they should be. D. ARCHES IN GARDENS. WHEN suitably clothed with climb- ing plants, arches add con- siderably to the beauty of either flower garden or kitchen garden, always providing that they are suitably placed. It needs but a glance at the accompanying photo- graph, taken in Lady Clayton's garden at Harley- ford, Bucks, to note how effectively an archway may be clothed even in a kitchen garden. In this instance the main walk in the kitchen garden is bordered with herbaceous flowers, and the effect is pleasing in the extreme. The wide arched openings in the walls, through which pleasant views are ob- tained, afford ample opportunity for the generous planting of suitable climbers. .Clematis montana and various ornamental Vines, including Vitis purpurea and Ampelopsis hederacea, are used with delightful eiiect, mingled witli Wistaria multijuga and W. sinensis. There is no lack of subjects suitable for planting in such situations, and in addi- tion to those already mentioned the following are also to be recom- mended: Actinidia chinensis, one of the most beautiful of all hardy climbers in foliage, although the flowers are rarely seen ; Aristolochia Sipho, or the Dutchman's Pipe, suitable for a warm aspect ; Japanese and European Honey- suckles ; Polygonum baldschuanicum, a beau- tiful climber from Bokhara, with a wealth of pink and white flowers, borne in June and again later in the summer ; and .^kebia lobata. Roses are also well adapted for this purpose, and a suitable selection would include A 1 b e r i c Barbier, Rosa moschata alba, Rosa sinica Anemone (otherwise known as the Cherokee Rose) and Ards Rover. Such red-flowered varieties as American Pillar ought not to be grown against brick walls, for neither red nor pink flowers are seen to advantage in association with brickwork. With so wide a selection of climbing plants there is no reason why archways, with a little care in planting, should not be made both attractive and interesting at practically all seasons of the year. 380 THE GARDEN. [July 23, 1914- ROSE-GROWING IN GARDENS. TOWN THE removal of fading blooms, besides being necessary for the sake of tidiness, help^ to conserve the energy of the plants, much of which is spent in the production of the flowers. In efiecting this a certain amount of the growth is removed, so that a sort of secondary pruning takes place at this time of the year. It is some- times a matter of difSculty for a gardener to know exactly how far the growths may be cut back. Those who like to gather their blooms naturally wish to have them with long stems, while others who prefer to see them in the garden are often loath to remove a fraction more of the wood than is necessary. There is no doubt that a wholesale stripping of the tree causes a loss of vitality, not only on account of the wasted sap, thing in the nature of severe cutting is likely to lessen rather than increase the chances of good blooms in the succeeding crop. A full-blown Rose is the favourite resort of earwigs, and these should always be looked for and destroyed as the flowers are gathered. One needs to examine the flowers night and morning for traces of these pests where they are numerous, for the damage they do is frequently very apparent if they are left undisturbed for a day. A good method of trapping these insects is to place a number of short lengths of hollow Bamboo cane upon the ground around the plants, and examine these each morning ; but Rose petals are un- doubtedly the finest form of " bait " for them, so one should make certain that none escapes when these are gathered. A particularly, difficult pest is the earwig, and man seems to be almost the only destroying agency in our town gardens, for very few birds will eat them. Nature has a wav of adjusting things, however, and, fortunately. MILTONIA VEXILLARIA REV. W. WILKS but because of the check which it gives to the roots. On the other hand, if only the stem of the flower is removed, the result is a superfluous niunber of weak, crowded shoots, which it is desirable to avoid. One may usually cut away about half the growth with ; safety, of course using discretion in doing so. There may, for example, be other buds which it is desired to see flower, in which case one would naturally sever the shoot at a point which would allow of this. It is also essential to bear in mind the future shape ■ot each tree, and one should therefore cut to an outward eye. Now that the first crop of bloom is past, it is a g0)d plan to go over the trees carefully and slightly trim those that require it. Weak shoots which have come blind should have been removed in their ciilier stages, but some are apt to get overlooked, and these ought to be cut out. The aim should be always to keep the centre of each plant open, and the timely removal of a few thin and useless branches will often help in doing so. But there should be no " hacking " of the plants, for any- tlie winter proves fatal to most of them, or we should be overwhelmed. P. L. Goddard. SEASONABLE NOTES ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS. IN July, especially towards the end O'f the month, the plants grow freely if the roots are in a suitable medium. It is a fact that Chrysanthemums make very strong growth towards the end of the summer ; more, it seems, in comparison, than in their early stages. The plants thrive best in a cool temperature ; although they make rapid growth in spring if subjected to much heat, the quality of the shoots is very poor. As the dewy nights come, so do the plants thrive. In the absence of rain and dew, syringing late in the afternoon on fine days will prove very bene- ficial. Syringing would chill the plants if done in cold, dull weather. Cultivators should closely examine their plants. If they find the wood — stems^very hard now and the leaves small and tough, they should syringe the foliage heavily on every suitable day ; if they find the stems soft and long-jointed, with very large, brittle leaves, then syringe much less frequently, as the proper maturing of the wood would be delayed too much. The object of the cultivator this month must be to promote a sound, healthy growth of plant, so that when the buds appear in August they will quickly develop, and also the surrounding shoots, to a stage when " taking " of buds will be work quickly carried out. Buds and shoots that are slow in developing to the stage when " taking " should be done usually mean short flower-stems, and short petals that are too narrow and too numerous when the blooms are fully out ; but very frequently such buds never develop fully in the centre. Early Feeding. — Very weak doses of dear soot-water and manure-water may be given as the roots fill the pots ; but soot-water made from fresh soot and given very strong does much harm — it bums the tender roots. Clear liquid made from soot that has been stored in a shed for several months is the only kind fit to use. Dirty soot-water does harm, as the sediment blocks the pores of the soil. Early Top-dressing. — This is very beneficial if done in the right way. Some very good loam must be passed through a half-inch-mesh sieve'; treat half-rotted leaf-soil in a similar way ; use two parts loam and one part leaf-soil. To a bushel of the combined parts add a peck of rotted manure, also sifted, a 6-inch potful of bone-meal, and a concentrated manure according to the instructions given with it. Now, instead of putting on the mixture in one thick layer, sprinkle on a little only — just enough to cover the surface soil in the pots, and then water through a rosed watering- can. In a few days' time, directly the young roots show through, put on another thin layer of the prepared compost. The cultivator can ascertain the true state of the soil below, as to whether it is dry or moist, by tapping the pots. Side Shoots. — .Ml side shoots must be pinched out while quite small, so as to concentrate the full strength of the plants in the main stems and leaves. Premature Bud Formation. — Some varieties bear buds prematurely much more frequently than others. Any buds forming before July 25 must be removed at once, unless they are borne on very late-flowering varieties, such as the Hon. .Mrs. Lopes ; then, gradually " take " the buds, as later-formed ones would be useless if these are removed. On earlier varieties July buds must be removed, as those appearing at the end of .\ugust will be of better quality. Avon. NEW AND RARE PLANTS. AWARDS OF MERIT. Gladiolus Eldorado. — .A variety of merit and distinction. The large, widely expanding flowers of soft canary yellow tone are rendered con- spicuous by bold, irregular blotches of reddish crimson on the lower petals. We recall nothing so remarkably distinct and good. Exhibited by Messrs. James Kthvay and Son, Langport. Michauxia Tchihatcheffl. — .\ remarkable plant of the Bellflower Order, from Asia Minor, of some- what difficult or at least uncertain cultivation. July 25, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 381 ROSE MAJESTIC. This was one of the most fragrant of the gold medal Roses at the National Rose Society's summer show held recently in Regent's Park. As described in last week's issue, it is a Hybrid Tea of vigorous, upright habit, with stout, spiny stems. The large, well-formed flowers are of a glowing soft vermilion pink. It was shown by Messrs. WilUam Paul and Son, Limited, Waltham Cross, Herts, and is quite an acquisition for either garden or decorative purposes. NEMESIA MARSDEN JONES' STRAIN. The white, horizontally disposed flowers are borne in a close spicate raceme, though branching freely at the base in good specimens. The woolly leaves are toothed, the barren rosettes lying almost prostrate on the ground. Shown by Miss Willmott, Great Warley. Nemesia Marsden Jones' Strain. — In this case the award was made to a strain characterised by large flowers of red and crimson shades over a golden ground colour. In some the upper lobes of the corolla are almost wholly crimson, in others they are crimson, chequered with gold. A very beautiful race. From Mr. E. Marsden Jones, Malpas. A FEW GOOD FORCING ROSES. Now that Rose forcing is over, it may be useful to look back and form conclu- sions of what proved of most service during the winter and spring. Many old favourites are still unbeaten, but I can give the highest praise to the following from among our newer varieties : NEW ORCHIDS. Three first-class certificates were awarded for novelties of unusual interest. Mr. J. Gurney Fowler of Brackenhurst, Pembury, Kent, showed Miltonia vexillaria Rev. W. Wilks, with immense pale pink flowers nearly five inches in depth and over three inches across. It was raised by crossing M. v. gigantea with M. v. Queen Alexandra. Mr; F. Mentieth Ogilvie, The Shrubbery, Oxford, Showed a magnificent variety of Odontoglossum percultum named King George ; but the greatest triumph among new Orchids was the bigeneric hybrid Odontonia Charlesworthii, from Messrs. Charlesworth and Co. This is unquestionably the finest Odontonia yet raised, the lip being bright purple red and the petals deeper red. Parentage : Odontoglossum Uro-Skinneri x Miltonia vexiUaria. An award of merit was granted to Brasso- Cattleya Ilene The Dell Variety, shown by Baron Schroder, The Dell, Englefield Green. The foregoing awards were made at the fort- nightly meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society on July 14. Lady Hillingdon is now by al! generally known as a good forcer. It was recognised as such before its introduction, taking quite a front place among our market growers. It has good foliage and each flower is carried well ; the colour is the most intense orange yellow while young, which it keeps better than most yellows. It has very long buds, and is one of the freest bloomers. It is likely to be one of the most extensively grown under glass, and is also much better in the open than was generally thought at its first introduction. It is indeed beautiful in the autumn. Mme. Edouard Herriot has been exhibited well both last season and this. As a forcer it must be good, and cannot fail to prove a fine bedder. My own stock of plants are doing well, and where price is no great object I strongly advise a few being tried for winter forcing. Coral red, shaded with yellow and rosy scarlet. Not a full Rose, hut very freely borne and opening well. Sunburst is certainly one of the best of 1912. We seem to be minus the disappointment of pale- coloured flowers when forcing this variety. In the open it is not satisfactory until warm weather sets in, when it is among the best right up to the time of frost. A stout-petalled and beautifully carried bloom of clear orange yellow with a deeper centre, lasting well when cut young and retaining its colour. It is bound to become one of our most popular forcing varieties. I am giving these notes early as a guide towards the selection and preparation of our best newer varieties for next winter's blooming, which should be taken in hand soon. Uckfield. A. P. THE NEW ROSE MAJESTIC. Melody has jumped to the front as a reliable forcer, so much so as to already figure among the few varieties regularly grown for market purposes, which in itself is the best possible proof as a reliable one for early culture. This is one of the best pure saffron yellows we have, being very rich in the centre, with clear primrose yellow edges. The flowers are invariably carried bold and upright upon a stiff stem, open well, retain their exquisite form for a long time, are very freely produced and sweet-scented. This is ■ also a grand Rose for the open air, particularly as a bedder. It is claimed to be mildew-proof, and has proved so with me, both under glass and outside, since its introduction in 1911. Ophelia came from Waltham Cross a year later, and has taken a high position here. This is another splendid forcer and carries its flower well ; free in every way, and also a good outdoor bedder. A clear salmon flesh centre shaded with rose, and altogether a great acquisition. GLADIOLUS ELDORADO. 382 THE GARDEN. [July 25, 1914- GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. The Early Vines. — Lateral growth may now be cut hard back, in order to expose the Vines to the sun, so that the wood may be thoroughly ripened. Examine the borders, and if necessary give a good soaking of water, previous to which a sprinkling of Thomson's Vine Manure may be applied. Cucumber Plants for late autumn supplies should now be ready for planting. It is better to make several plantations during the season than to rely on plants which have become ex- hausted. Melons.— The latest plantation of Melons may now be made, in order to produce ripe fruits in October. Plant 4 feet apart and secure the first batch of flowers. Plants Under Glass. Roman Hyacinths.— These are always welcome, and to have them early the bulbs should be potted with as little delay as possible. Do not make the soil too hard underneath the bulbs, but simply press them into the compost and make firm round them After potting, they may be placed on a bed of ashes and covered with several inches of the same material, which should be passed through a fine sieve. Poinsettias.— The earliest batch of plants can now receive their final shift into 6-inch or 7-inch pots, according to the state of the plants. Crow in a temperature of 70° and expose the plants to as much light as they will stand without flagging. Ventilation must be given to keep them from becoming too soft. Salvia splendens.— Plants for winter flowering should now receive their final shift. Nine-inch pots will not be too large if the plants are growing freely The soil may consist of three parts turfy loam and one part decayed horse-manure. Pot moderately firm and protect from heavy rain until the pots are well fiJled with roots, when they may be placed on a bed of ashes in the open garden until the weather becomes too cold at night. The Flower Garden. Pentstemons. — Some varieties are in full bloom, and should receive supports to keep them from injury by rough wind. Mrs. Fulford, a variety of recent introduction, is now throwing up strong spikes of rich red flowers of good substance and size Stir the soil between the plants and give a top-dressing of decayed horse-manure with as little delay as possible. Liberal supplies of water may afterwards be given. Gladioli.— These are making good, clean growth and pushing up their flower-spikes, which will require neat stakes to keep them. in an upright position Do not allow them to suffer from want of moisture at the roots, and, if dry weather sets in, a mulching of decayed manure will do much to' keep them in a clean, healthy condition. Sweet Peas.— As the flowers show signs of decay, they should be carefully removed from the plants before any seed-pods are formed, m order to prolong the flowering period as far into the autumn as possible, and with the same object in view frequent applications of manure-water may be given. Spiraeas.— Astilbe palmata, A. Davidii, A. Queen Alexandra and A. Peach Blossom, if planted in bold groups by the water's edge, present an imposmg appearance ; but unless the roots reach the water-level they must receive daily attention with the water-pot. They will also benefit by a mulching of some moisture-retaining material. The Rock Garden. Dianthi which are passing out of flower should be trimmed back, in order to produce stocky young shoots for propagation. Dianthus alpinus, a beautiful rock garden plant, may easily be increased in this way or by seeds, and should be planted' in poor, moist soil, where it forms a dwarf, compact plant with flower-stems only a few inches long. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Apples, Pears and Plums are swelling fast and trees carrying heavy crops require careful thinning. For this purpose a pair of good scissors is the best implement. As this work proceeds, care must be taken to leave the fruits which are best placed with regard to sunshine. In the first place, all deformed fruits should be removed, leaving only such as will develop into good speci- mens and nothing beyond what can be brought to maturity without injuring the prospects for the following season. Many of the side growths may be shortened, in order "to admit light and air to the middle of the trees and with a view to forming fruit-buds for another year. This shorten- ing of the growths, if acconiplished before this date, will sometimes cause new growths to break from the eyes, which are of no value and have to be cut away at a later date, thus defeating the object of forming fruit-buds. The Kitchen Garden. Turnips for Winter Supplies.— A good sowing of Turnip seed should be made now, and another in ten days' time. Allow 18 inches between the rows, as nothing is gained by overcrowding. Spinach for Late Autumn Supplies may be sown at once, and for mnter about the middle of August. Allow 18 inches between the rows for this crop, and thin out the seedlings to 4 inches apart as soon as large enough. French Beans. — If cold pits are available, several plantations may be made during August for the supply of pods in October and November. The lights should be removed until cold weather sets in during the autumn. Early Potatoes. — As soon as the skins are set, this crop should be lifted and stored for future use. The ground will then be available for Coleworts or other winter crops. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Runner Beans. — These are growing rapidly, and attention must be given to see that the vines are taking to their supports. If allowed to fall over, they get so entwined that it is next to impossible to do anything with them. Mushrooms.^Preparations for a supply of Mushrooms in the autumn may now be made. Collect fresh horse-manure and have it placed in layers in a dry shed, where it should be turned each day. Meantime, opportunity can be taken to have the Mushroom-house thoroughly washed downfand everything made ready for making a start. ' ■' Cucumbers. — Those growing in frames will now claim attention in the way of feeding and regulating the shoots. Endeavour to keep the foliage healthy, and cut the fruits regularly from the plants ; otherwise, if allowed to mature, the plants soon show signs of exhaustion. Lettuce and Endive should be thinned out to avoid crowding, and make another sowing of each for winter use. Where a sowing of Parsley was made at7the beginning of June, the young plants ought to be ready for thinning. A number of these thinnings can be dibbled into frames ; these will make nice plants before the winter, and will prove a very useful crop indeed. The Flower Garden. Layering Carnations. — In light, sandy soil it is sometimes not necessary to prepare it f.ir this work, but on the whole it will pay to make up a light compost in which to put the layers. Should the weather be dry, give them a slight dewing in the evening. At the sarne time, my experience is that they root best in a dry season. Hedges. — To keep hedges of Yew, Pri\-et or Laurel in good condition, as well as from an orna- mental point of view, they must be kept closely clipped. In the case of Laurels, it is most impor- tant to remember that they should never be trimmed with the shears, but always with a knife. It certainly takes much longer to^do the work, but they look much better when finished, and there is no doubt it is better for the hedge. Ancbusas. — As the first flowers will be almost over, the flower-stems should be shortened back to where the new growths are appearing. These new growths will in a favourable season send up some nice flower shoots late in the autumn, which will give an added beauty to the herbaceous border and will associate well with the prevailing yellows of that season. Lavender. — Where the flowers of this fine old-fashioned plant are required for household purposes, they should now be ready for harvesting. In this connection it is important to remember that they must be gathered before they are fully expanded. Tie them in small bimches and place them in a cool house, on a shelf which has previously been covered with paper, until they are perfectly dry. Violas. — In a great many districts Viola cuttings will be difficult to obtain owing to the drought ex- perienced lately. There is still time, however, to save the situation by going over the plants and removing all faded flowers. Give the plants a good soaking at the roots two or three times. Plants Under Glass. Deciduous Calantbes. — These should now be well rooted, and will require to be more liberally treated in the way of watering, and, if judiciously apphed, a little weak liquid manure occasionally. But much damage may be done to the young growths if water is allowed to collect at the base. This must be guarded against at all costs. Ferns for Bowls. — During the past year or two there has been an increasing demand for ornamental bowls filled with bulbs and small Pterises for blooming indoors during the winter months. For this purpose pot up the required number at once into 3-inch pots. The varieties Pteris major and P. Wimsettii are especially suited for this work. In most places no difficulty will be expTicnced in securing a sufficient number of plants from self-sown spores ; if not, young plants can be purchased very cheaply from Fern-growers. Stocks. — Some time ago I remarked on the excellence of these plants for providing a supply of cut flowers in the spring. The first sowing should be made without delay. The varieties I have found most suited for this work are Princess Alice, Beauty of Nice and, as a charming com- panion. Emperor (Augusta Victoria). Sow one or two seeds in small pots and place them in a cold frame, eventually thinning them to one plant in each pot, and from the very outset avoid any- thing in the nature of coddhng. Pot on as required, and remember that they will amply compensate for a little extra care and attention. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Peaches. — The trees may now be gone over and all superfluous shoots shortened back. The growths that are to furnish the tree should be so arranged that the fruits will be exposed to the sun. It is surprising what a delightful hue Peaches in the open take on when exposed to the full glare of the sun ; not only so, but the flavour is also much improved thereby. Apples. — Trees which are carrying heavy crops must be assisted by frequent doses of liquid manure, and have a good mulching of manure placed over the roots. Fruits Under Glass. Vines. — Houses in which Grapes arc beginning to colour should have air admitted top and bottom during the night, and at the same time keep up a Httle fire-heat. In order to prevent the inside border becoming dry, give a mulch of manure from a spent Mushroom-bed, or, failing that, meadow hay would answer the same purpose. Continue to remove lateral growths as they appear, and every means should be taken to keep red spider in check. Tomatoes. — Where a supply of Tomatoes is desired during the winter, the seed should be sown without delay. As soon as the young seedlings appear, they must be placed close to the roof glass to prevent them becoming drawn. When the seedlings have been potted, place them in a cool house where they will have full exposure to light and air. John Highgate. (Head-gardener to the Marquis of LinUthgow.) HopHoun Gardens, South Qucens/erry, N. B. ULY 25, I9I4.] THE GARDEN. 383 EDITORIAL NOTICES. Every department 0/ horticulture is represented in THE Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions relating to matters upon ivhieh theii irish expert advice. The Editor welcomes p/iotix/raplis, articles and notes, but he will not be responsible for their safe return. All reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted contributions. As ref/ards photographs, if payment be dc-'iired, the Editor asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated. It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo- qrapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with. The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic or literary contributions wliich he may not be able to use, and the re^eiptJof a proof must not be taken as evidence that an article is accepted. Publication in The Garden ivill alotie be recoqnised as acceptance. Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.G. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor endeavours to make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assistance, no matter ivhat the branch of gardening may be, and with that object makes a special feature of the "Ansivers to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters on business should be sent to the Publisher. FLOWER GARDEN. SOLDANELLAS (M. W. S.).^li is obviously an instance of the development of latent flower-buds — a not unusual circumstance with many plants. In fruit trees, for example, both fruit and flowers are occasionally seen on the same spray, and your Soldanclla with " ripe seed " (fruit) and "fresh flowers on the same stalk" is identical in principle. We did not understand that this was so from your former communication. HEUCHERAS NOT FLOWERING (W. £.).— Have you any particular variety in mind ? The only one having any pretensions to shy flowering is H. sanguinea in certain districts and in cold clay soils. There are varieties of it that are much freer floweriuR. All the plants grow freely in sandy loam, but, in addition, the one above referred to prefers also a rather warm, well-drained soil and situa- tion. The forms of H. gracillima and the hybrids between this and the first named are proverbial for their free fiowering ; hence we imagine you must be dealing with a poor type of the original. The best methods of increase are by seeds and by division of the crown tufts in spring. The plants divide quite readily, and if firmly replanted in rich soil soon become established again. PLANTS FOR BANK IN WOOD (A. H. B.) — You have obviously a good opportunity for some natural effects, though just what would be the best plants could only be accurately determined on the spot. In any case, we think you cannot err in planting the Winter Heath (Erica carnea) for winter and early spring, with also the taller- growing Portuguese Heath (Erica lusitanica) for later effect. Almost all the Lastreas, Polypodiums and Athyriums would do well in the sandy soil, provided also that the conditions are cool and the rooting medium fairly deep. We should hesitate before planting Azaleas, unless it was in or near woodland scenes. Almost all the fine- leaved Japanese Maples would do well in sandy, loamy soils, and you may select at mil from golden, crimson and green leaved sorts, all of which are beautiful. The finer colour effects these afford are only secured by exposure to full light ; shade is detrimental thereto. For the rest, you might plant a few of the more graceful Bamboos near the water, also Spirseas, Astilbes and Eulalias. On the rough bank, if you discourage the Bracken and other wild material, many things might be grown. Double Gorse and some of the Brooms would be effective, and Foxgloves might prove very charming. It would require a more intimate knowledge of the spot and your own intentions in the direction of beautifying it to give a more definite reply. TREES AND SHRUBS. OLD HEATHS (A. K. M.).— The best thing to do with your old Ericas would be to destroy those which have out- grown their positions and have become bare towards the base. Such plants, if cut back, would not start away well, neither would they bear transplanting well. By starting again with young plants your bed would be far more satisfactory than at prese'nt. The best winter Heaths for your district are Erica mediterranea hybrida. E. carneft and E. carnea alba ; for spring, E. mediter- ranea : for summer, E. cinerea and varieties, E. Tetralix and E. stricta ; and for autumn, E. ciliaris and variety maweana, E. vagana and varieties, Dabo^cia polifoUa, and Calluna \-ulgaris and varieties. DOUBLE LILACS AND SEED {J. Q. N.).—\t is not usual for double flowcM's to produce seeds, but in an inflorescence of usually double flowers some may be single or partly so, the reproductive organs being perfect. In such cases seeds may be produced, or. in some instances, the ovaries may swell up without maturing seeds. The fruits of the Lilac heads similar to the one sent for examination will not mature after the flower-beads have been removed, and if kept they will be of no use. A WINTER-FLOWERING CLIMBER (IT. IT.).— If you wish fur a \vinter- flowering climber, you cannot do better than select Jasminum nudiflorum, for it blossoms for about two months from December onwards. If, however, you prefer a plant to bloom in May, use Clematis montana rulwns. It is a vigorous kind, which does not suffer from disease, as many kinds do, and it blossoms freely. If you obtain a plant in a pot, it may be planted any time ; otherwise in October. You may plant Ivy against your wall in October. ROSE GARDEN. PINK GLOIRE DE DIJON {H. G.).— Yes ; there is a Rose named Kaiserin Friedrich that bears flowers much like GJoire de Dijon, only that they are shaded with pink. If, as you say, one shoot bears flowers of a good pink colour, you should bud from this shoot. Ask some local gardener to bud it for you on to a Briar, or even on to another Rose. You could put cuttings in also from the half-ripened wood. Put the cuttings under a hand-light in the shade, using nice sandy soil to place them in. TWELVE FRAGRANT AND FREE-BLOOMING ROSES {Pauvret). — An excellent selection would be as follows : Mme. Abel Chatenay, Mme. Ravary, Pharitfier, General Macarthur, Duchess of Wellington, Lieutenant Chaure, Liberty, Laurent Carle, Viscountess Folkestone, Rlrs. John Laing, Mrs, Walter Easlea and Hugh Dickson. FRUIT GARDEN. CANKER IN APPLE TREE (GeraB).— Yes ; your Apple is badly attacked by canker. The affected portions should be cut out as soon as possible and the wounds painted over with lead paint or tar, otherwise the disease is bound to spread. You will flnd a long article dealing with this disease in a recent issue. PEACH MILDEW {3. C. ^•.).— The Peach is attacked by Peach mildew. Keep the house well ventilated, and, if the disease spreads, spray with a solution of potassium sulphide, at the rate of loz. to four gallons of water, in the evening. The Rose has apparently suffered a check during its development, and has subsequently grown on. FIG TREE CASTING ITS FRUIT (5. R. J.).— We think that the tree must now be at the flowering stage. If this is so, it is nothing unusual for a tree to cast a few fruits at this time. If the tree casts all its fruit one year after another, then there must be something radically ^vTong in your mode of culture. Generally the failure arises from the fact of the tree being too heavily furnished with branches and foliage during the summer. You must remember that the fruit of next year is borne on the branches of this year's growth. If this is not properly developed and nurtured by exposure to all sunshine, light and air possible, then it cannot bear fruit. If your tree is at all overcrowded with branches of this year's growth, do not hesitate a day in cutting out the weakest to give the others a better chance. GRAPES BADLY SHANKED {Thaley Parfc).— The Grapes were a rotted pulp when received, and the letter steeped in the same, making it difficult to decipher. Yours is a bad case of shanking — caused, we think, by- serious root trouble. How this has been brought about it is difficult for us to know, but most likely by applying too heavy doses of artificial manure. These manures are valuable and indispensable helps when applied with discretion and knowledge in the growth of Grapes ; but when applied in too heavy dressings, then they do incalculable harm. We believe that you will find many of the roots have collapsed, and are more or less dead. To bring the Vines round, your best plan will be to lift the roots to within 2 feet of the wall of the vinery and thoroughly examine them, cutting away the weak and impaired, and re- laying the rest in a new border made of best Vine- growing compost. You will soon get your Vines round by doing this, and in no other way. ABOUT APPLE TREES {Shirley). —The Apple foliage and fruit are both attacked by aphides, and it is these which are causing the red coloration on both. Spraying with quassia and soft soap, with nicotine, or with one of the proprietary sprays that are so numerous, and many of which are good, in early spring would reduce the attack markedly. The shoot of Apple Mannington's Pearmain is attacked by Apple mildew, and no amount of spraying is likely to cause its disappearance, as the fungus is perennial in the tissues of the Apple shoots. The only method to adopt is to prune away and burn the affected shoots in early spring as soon as they can be seen. Spraying for Codhn moth is not likely to be an effective preventive unless a food poison spray is used and sprayed forcibly on the fruit so that it enters the eye of the Apple. Quassia and nicotine are not food poisons ; the best is lead arsenate ; lead acetate should not be used. Codlin moth is rather an uncommon pest in this country at the present time, and the depredations of the Apple sawfly are often mistaken for it. Spraying may check this to a slight extent, but the beat check 1b Imposed by the prompt collection of fallen fruits and their destruction by fire. MISCELLANEOUS. INJURY TO SWEET PEAS (A. il.).— The material sent is insufficient to enable us to diagnose the disease. Please send a complete plant. GRUBS FOR IDENTIFICATION (A. JP.).— Neither of the grubs sent is harmful. The active one is the larva of one of the ground beetles, and feeds on other insects. The other is the larva of a two-winged fly, which feeds on vegetable refuse. CABBAGE ROOT MAGGOT (Mrs. £.).— The little whitish maggot is the Cabbage root maggot, which is often very troublesome through attacking Cabbages, Cauliflowers, and other plants belonging to the Cabbage family. The best thing to do to protect the plants from the maggot is to dust sand, damped with paraffin, along the rows. This will help to keep tlie parent fly from laying her eggs, and so prevent the attack of the pest. The other grub is the wire- worm, and for this constant hoeing is necessary. Where tiiere are plants which need protection in wire worm- infested ground, a piece of Potato or Carrot may be buried witli a stick marking the spot. Examine it at frequent intervals and destroy the captures, NAMES OF PLANTS.— TT, J, fl,— Roses : 1, faUen ; 2, Mme. d'Arblay ; 3, Joseph Lamy ; 4, Rosa lucida plena ; 5, Paul Transon ; 6, Mrs. Waterer. E. W. N. — Both specimens of Centranthus ruber are typical examples of the species. It is not unusual for some variation of colour to occur. Both shades are often seen. The Rhododendron is R. azaleoides, a hybrid between an evergreen Rhododendron and a deciduous species of Azalea, H., Ongar. — Roses : 1, Margaret Dickson ; 2, Baroness Rothschild ; 3, Rev. Alan Cheales. A. M. B.y Longformaeus. — Rose Euphrosyne, Salvia Grahamii and Serapias Lingua. Mrs. D., Salisbury. — 1, Campanula rapunculoides ; 2, C. alliariEefolia : 3, C. linifolia, N. Y. — 1, Galium verum ; 2, Selaginella Braunii ; 3, Selaginella species, cannot identify, too scrappy ; 4, Helxine Solierolii ; 5, Sedum rupestre ; 6, S. acre. Wild Flowers. — 1, Hyoscyamus niger (Henbane) ; 2, ErythrEca Centaurium (Centaury) ; 3, Ononis spinosa ; 4, Galium Mollugo ; 5, Senecio JacobEEa ; 6, Agrimonia Eupatoria ; 7, Lotus uliginosus ; 8, Hyperi- fum quadrangulare. burton. — Monarda didyma. T. M., Bridport. — A aarden escape, native of North America. E. M. H. — Spiisea arborescens. S. H. B. — Carlina acauhs caule?cens. F. A. Sturge. — 1, Ver- bascum Lychnites ; 2 and 3, two seedling forms of V. denpiflorum ■ 4, V, Chaixii. Specimens of Verbascums should include mature leaf in order to identify with any certainty — — B. Cummings. — 1, Sedum rupestre ; 2, S. reflexum ; 3, S. hybridum ; 4, S. roseum ; 5, S. Anacamp- scros ; Q and 7, forms of S. spurium; 8. S nlbum : 9. Arenaria montana.— — Constant Reader. — The yellow flower is Lysimachia thyrsiflora; the Rose Fellenberg. Moc, Deal, Kent, — Roses : 1, Newport Fairy ; 2, Excelsa, SOCI ETI ES. NATIONAL SWEET PEA SOCIETY'S SHOW. The fourteenth annual exhibition in connection with the above society was held in the Royal Horticultural Hall, Vincent Square, Westminster, on Thursday, the 16th inst. On account of the dry weather and the rather late date of the show, a number of big seed firms, notably Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Messrs. J. Carter and Co., Mr. W. J. Umvin and Messrs. R. H. Bath, Limited, were unable to stage their customary groups. Taldng all things into consideration, however, the show was a very good one indeed, and attracted a large number of visitors during the afternoon. The new secretary, Mr. H. D. Tigwell, had made excellent arrangements. Non-competitive Grotjps. These, as usual, were arranged around the walls of the hall, and constituted an ideal setting to the gems of the moment. There were some fourteen or fifteen of these groups, which were virtually a show in themselves. Taking the groups in order, we first came to that of Messrs. E. W. King and Co. , Coggeshall, Essex , who arranged a collection of the flowers in considerable variety and beauty. It would have been better, we think, had the flowers been staged lower down. The beauty of the Sweet Pea cannot be estimated at 10 feet high. The collection was quite a representative one. Robert Sydenham, Limited, Birmingham, had a prettily arranged group, using rustic and other vases of an artistic nature. The arches of Princess Mary (deep blue) and R. F. Felton (reddish mauve) were very nice, Robert Sydenham (orange scarlet), Lilian (pink) and Barbara (pale orange) were also excellent. Messrs, Bide's (Farnham) arrangement consisted of rather high-placed arches ornamented by Smilax, with occasional vases of Sweet Peas. Lower down, vases of the flowers ornamented with Asparagus Sprengeri were the rule. Of these Princess Mary (blue), Sirs. Breadmore (cream) and Phyllis Bide (scarlet) were the best. Hobbies, Limited, Dereham, also arranged arches of the flowers with vases below. The latter contained some excellent examples, Marjorie Linzee (rose cerise), Thomas Stevenson (orange). Jlrs. Hugh Wormald (pink and cream) and Dorothy (rose and mauve) being good. Rural floral decorations were arranged by Mr, Fred W. Wood, Walworth, S.E. Messrs, Jarman and Co., Chard, displayed a representa- tive lot of the flowers of good quality, R. F. Felton, Elsie Herbert, Lavender G. Herbert and Hercules (pink) 384 THE GARDEN. [July 25, 1914. being good. This group was ornamented by sprays of the fragrant Humea elegans. Messrs. Dickson, Belfast, had some excellent flowers in a rather high-placed arrangement. Their vases of Hilary Christy (rose and orange), Bobbie's Cream, Maud Holmes (of which pillars were formed), Seamew (pale mauve), Barbara (orange) and Orchid (mauve and rose) were very fine. Blue Picotee, Eing "\^Tiite and Thomas Stevenson were also notable examples in a fine lot. Mr. James Box, Hayward's Heath, had an excellent arrangement of the flowers in conjunction with high quahty. Against a background of velvet three bold vases were arranged ■with trails of Smilax and light Grasses. The effect was decidedly good, the grouping being light, yet telling. James Box, Elfrida Pearson, Lindfleld Grey, Afterglow, Edna May Improved and Debbie's Cream were very fine. Messrs. C. C. Morse and Co., San Francisco, California, showed the new Sweet Pea Margaret Atlee, a dehghtful flower in pale and rose pink shades. A superb lot of the flowers was displayed. Messrs. Dobbie (Edinburgh) staged, as usual, a particularly fine lot against a background of velvet festooned by Smilax. The flowers were very fine. The bolder vases we tliought a little too massively arranged. Bobbie's Cream, Mrs. Heslington, Alfred Watkins (laven- der), Queen of Norway (rosy mauve), Bed Star, ?fora Unmn and Thomas Stevenson were the finer lots in a very telling exhibit. Mr. Robert Bolton, Carnforth, had a nice arrangement of flowers opposed to a rather weak pale green background. The flowers, too, were less fine than we are accustomed to see from this exliibitor. Mr. H. J. Damerem, Hayling Island, Hants, also con- j tributcd a small group of these flowers. Competitive Classes. In Class 1, for eighteen bunches, distinct, three com- petitors came to the front, the first prize, the Sutton Cup, going to Mr. A. E. Usher, Eanston Gardens, Bland- ford, who staged an admirable lot of flowers. His collec- tion comprised Maud Holmes (crimson). May Campbell (rose and cream), jMrs. Cuthbertson (apple blossom rose), Prince George (rose and salmon), Edith Taylor (rose), Lavender G. Herbert, Barbara (orange), Dobbie's Cream, Mark's Tey (red and violet), W. P. Wright (lavender), Princess Victoria (pink), White Queen, Thomas Stevenson (orange), Edrom Beauty (orange and rose), Agricola (pale pink) and King Manoel (maroon). A magnificent set of varieties. Second, Mr. E. 1\. James, gardener to Lord North, W^roxton Abbey, Banbury ; third, JVIr. J. Stokes, Lyme Regis. For the Henry Eckford Memorial Cup, twelve bunches distinct, eight competitors contested, the premier award going to JMrs. A. V. Macnamara, Ennistymon, County Clare, Ireland, whose excellent group was made up of Orange Perfection, Jirs. Hardcastle Sykes, Sunproof Crimson, Xew Marquis (purple). Orchid (rosy mauve), Illuminator (scarlet). Thomas Stevenson (scarlet orange), Elsie Herbert Jpink and white), Hercules (rose), Audrey Crier, Wenvoe Castle (violet and rose) and King Manoel. Second, Mr, T. Stevenson, gardener to Mr. E. G. Mocatta, Woburn Place, Addlestone, whose admirable lot was made up of Lavender G. Herbert, Thomas Stevenson, King Manoel. 11. F. Felton, Elsie Herbert, Hercules, Orange Perfection. New Marquis, Edith Taylor, William Cuthbertson, King Edward Spencer and Mis. C. W. Breadmore. This was a splendid exhibit, a very close second to the excellent collection from Ireland. Third, Jliss Scrivens, Bcxhill- on-Sea. In Class 3, for six distinct bunches selected from varieties put into commerce since autumn, 1912, only four lots were staged, the first prize going to Mr. T Jones, Ruabon, whose collection comprised Hluminator, King MTiite, Agricola (piuk), Lavender George Herbert, Mark's Tey and Thomas Stevenson. The varieties were shown in his inimitable style. Second, Mr. B. Cowdy, Loughgall, County Armagh. Class 4, for three bunches, was only poorly represented. Mr. Lewis S. Peters, St. Austell, Cornwall, had Lilian, Hercules and Gladys Burt, all very good. In the open classification class. Class 5, for a collection of eighteen varieties, five competitors put up excellent groups, the premier prize going to Jlr. E. Keith, gardener to Sir G. O. Trevelyan, Bart., Wallington Hall, Cambs, whose best were Barbara, Dobbie's Cream, Hercules, Mrs. Hugh Dickson, Mark's Tey, Agricola and R. F. Felton. The flowers generally were not of high excellence. Second, Mr. A. Shakelton, Forde Abbey Gardens, Chard. For twelve bunches of Sweet Peas, distinct, open to all, five exhibitors staged collections of the flower, Mrs. A. Y. Macnamara, County Clare, Ireland, leading the way with a fine assortment, Ra.diance, Barbara, Margaret Atlee, Mrs. E. Cowdy, Rlrs. C. W. Breadmore, Lavender George Herbert, Wedgwood, Mrs. Hardcastle Sykes, Sun- proof Crimson, King "NMiite and Rosabelle comprising the collection ; an admirable set. well coloured and handsome spikes. Second prize, Miss Scrivens. Millfield, Bexhill-on- Sca, who also had a lovely lot of flowers. For twelve bunches of Sweet Peas of lavender, cream pink, scarlet and orange, only one exhibitor, Mr. A. E. Usher, staged, and was awarded first prize. In Class 8, for eighteen bunches of Sweet Peas suited to garden decoration, two exhibilors staged collections, the first prize going to Rlr, A. E. Usher, gardener to Sir Randolf Baker, Bart., Blandford, whose excellent group contained Thomas Stevenson, Clara Curtis, Lavender George Herbert, W. P. Wright, Duplex Spencer and Tennant Spencer. Second, Mr. J. T. Tig^vell, Greenford, Middlesex. For the E. W. King Challenge Cup, for twelve waved varieties, distinct, there was a strong competition, eight exhibitors staging cqllectiqn . TJie first prize went to NATIONAL CARNATION AND PICOTEE SOCIETY. The annual exhibition of the Southern Section of this society was held at the Royal Horticultural Hall on July 17. The show was a comparatively small one. its better phase being the long-stemmed flowers sho^vn in vases. Those sho^vn on cards, many distorted beyond measure, failed to arouse any enthusiasm. For a stand of twelve Carnations on cards, bizarres and fiakes, Mr. H, R. Taylor, Cheam, was first, ha\ing Opal, Mrs. L, Lord, Gordon Lewis and George More] among others. Mr. J, Douglas was second, Tlicre were three competitors. For twelve Carnations, selfs, ]Mr. Charles Blick, Hayes, Kent, was first, having Dafiodil, Rosy Morn, Mimosa, Tlio Chartist, Blondcl, Booldiam Wliite, Fujiyama (red), Ashantec (crimson) and Sirs. Eric Hambro (white). Mr. James Douglas was second also in this class, his best flowers being DafTodil and Mrs. G. Marshall (crimson). Only two standJa were set up. Mr. E. Cowdy, Loughgall, Ciounty Armagh, whose best were Lavender George Herbert, Mary Unwin, Mark's Tey. R. F. Felton and Mrs. H. Sykes. Second, Mr. Le\vis Peters, St. Austell, Cornwall. District Classes (Trade Excluded). These were divided into two groups, the London and Scottish classes exliibiting six bunches each ; the Irish, Welsh, Northern Counties, W^estern. Eastern, Jlidland and Southern Counties exhibiting nine bunches each. In the London class, Mr. G. M. Morewood. Windmill Road, South Ealing, was first, having Jlaud Holmes and Thomas Stevenson as his best. There were five competitors. In the Scottish class, Mr. J. A. Ginger, Forres, N.B., took fijst place, having superb vases of ilargaret Atlee and Lavender George Herbert. In the Irish class, for nine, only two competitors faced the judges, the first prize going to Sirs. A. V, Jlac- namara, Ennistymon- House, County Clare, whose strong collection was made up of Jlrs. W. J. Unwin, Radiance, Edrom Beauty, Maud Holmes and Helen Williams, among others. Mr. E. Cowdy was second. In the Welsh classes, filr. T. Jones led the way, his vases of Jfargaret Atlee, Dobbie's Cream, Melba, Elfrida Pearson and Hercules being particularly fine. Mr. L. Webb, Welshpool, was second. In the Northern Counties class, Mr. E. Keith was first with an admirable lot. In the Western classes, Mr, A. E. Usher took the lead vntti a superb lot. In the Eastern Counties class, BIrs. A. Hitchcock. Tiptree, Essex, took premier place. There were ten competitors in this class, the flowers being very good. In the Midland Counties class only two competitors staged, the first prize going to Mr. E. R. James, Wroxton Abbey Gardens, Banbury, for a very fine lot. In the Southern Counties class, for which the first prize was a piece of plate, value three guineas, offered by tlie Proprietors of The Garden, there were six com- petitors, the first prize being awarded to an admirable tot from Miss Scrivens, Millfield, Bexhill-on-Sea, whose collection of nine comprised Thomas Stevenson, Hercules, New Marquis, King Manoel, King "VMiite, Edith Taylor, Audrey Crier, Maud Holmes and Barbara. Second. Mr. T. Stevenson, gardener to E. G. Mocatta, Esq., Addlestone, who also staged a very fine collection. In the Burpee Cup class, for a display of waved Sweet Peas, to be arranged on a table space 8 feet by 3 feet, only one competitor, Mr. T. Stevenson, gardener to E. G. Mocatta, Esq., Woburn Place, came to the front, the exhibit, in our opinion, being rather crowded. The best vase was Thomas Stevenson. New Marquis, King Manoel, Marjorie Linzee, Prince George and Lavender George Herbert were also good. For the Horace Wright Challenge Cup, twelve bunches, distinct, five competitors staged collections, the premier award going to Mr. W. H. Holloway, Port Hill, Shrewsbury, whose dozen was made up of Thomas Stevenson, May Campbell, Elsie Herbert, Ivanhoe (blue), Clara Curtis, Rosabelle, Agricola, King White, Jlark's Tey, King ftfanoel, Herchles and Sunproof Crimson, Mr. C. R. Jaggs, Vicarage Cottage, Hertford Heath, was second. For the Walter Yoss Challenge Cup, for six distinct varieties, to represent six dift'erent colour classes, five competitors staged collections, the premier award going to Mr, W. H. Holloway, Portyville, Port Hill, Shrewsbury'. His set was Lavender G. Herbert, Agricola, Hercules, Elfrida Pearson, King Manoel and Rosabelle. Sir. C. R. Jaggs was second. New Seedling Varieties. Fiery Cross (vivid scarlet cerise), raised by Mr. A. Malcolm, Duns, to be introduced by Messrs. W. Atlee Burpee and Co., was given an award of merit and reserved for the silver medal, 1915. Royal Purple and Jean Ireland (pink and cream), both from Messrs. Dobbie and Co., also received awards of merit. These had been grown at the Society's trials, and the awards were made by the floral committee. Table Decorations. In Class 36, for a table decoration 3 feet in diameter, there were fourteen competitors, the first prize deservedly going to an exquisitely beautiful and tasteful arrange- ment from Mrs. A. G." Gentle, Little Gaddesden, Berk- hamsted, who employed cream-coloured Sweet Peas in con- junction with the lightest of grasses, and touches of bronzy foliage and Acacia cultriformis. Second, Mrs, Alex. Robinson, Carshalton. In Class 37, for an epergne or stand, there were fifteen exhibilors, Mrs. A. D. Ruff being awarded flr.st prize. For a stand of twelve Carnation blooms on cards, fancies, dissimilar varieties, there were three competitors, Mr. J. Douglas being placed first. In our opinion the stand of these from Mr. C. Bhck, Haves. Kent, who was placed second, contained a much weightier lot of blooms. Mr. Blick's Skirmisher was a grand flower. The same variety in Mr. Douglas' lot was in a state of collapse at 11 a.m. The latter's best flowers were Lord Steyne, Edenside and Linkman. air. Blick staged excellent Linkman, Forester, Donald McDona'd and Mrs. Leo Hunter. For a stand of twelve Pieotecs there were three com- petitors. Mr. H. R. Taylor, Cheam, was first ; second, Mr. Douglas ; third, Mi. Blick. For twelve yellow-ground Pieotecs on cards, Mr. Douglas had the best lot, Mr, Taylor and Mr. Blick occupyinc second and third places respectively. For four varieties of Carnations, selfs, three blooms of each, in vases, there were four entrant?, Mr. J. Douglas occupying the first place uith Basuto (crimson). Daffodil (yellow), Bookham \Vhite,and Cardinal (scarlet). Mr. H. Lakeman was second ^s-ith good Bookham ^VIlite and Daffodil. Mr. C. Blick was third. For four fancies, shown in the same way, Mr. Douglas was again first, having Pasquin, Lord Steyne, Linkman and A. B. Stewart. Mr. Lakeman was second wth a capital lot of fiowers, ha\ing Father O'Ehmn, Pasquin, Linkman and Lord Steyn. Mr, C. Blick was third with Cyclops, Skirmisher, Meduso and Linkman. For four white-ground fancies, in vases, Btr. Douglas was first with a good lot, of which Henry Brett, Minnie, I\Irs. P. D. Owen and Othello were prominent. Mr. C. Blick. who was second, had Herbert Newman, The Nizam, The Bride and Lass of GowTie. In the yellow-ground Picotee class, four varieties, three blooms of each, in vases, Mr. J. Douglas was. again in the leading place. For nine distinct \arieties, selfs, fancies and yellow- ground Picotees, three blooms of each. Mr. J. Douglas was in the first place vitli a moderately stronc lot, his best being Czar. Bookham Wiite, Pasquin, Edenside and Elizabeth Shiffner. Mr. C. Blick was second with excel- lent examples of Daffodil, Forester and Linkman. In the white-flowered class, one variety only, Sir. W'. H. Baton, Moseley, was first \vitli Bookham Wliite. In the dark red or maroon selfs Jliss Shiffner was first with Mrs. G. Marshall (crimson). In that for yellow selfs. three blooms, one varietv. Mr. R. Morton, Woodside Park, was first mth excellent Daffodil, this variety being favoured by seven out of nine competitors. In the scarlet self class Mr. G. D. Ford was first in a collection of six with Fujiyama. For three terra-cotta selfs, three out of four cxliibitors had EUzabeth Shiffner, Miss Shiffner. Lewes, being first. For six distinct varieties, selfs, fancies and yellow- ground Picotees, Jlr. W. H. Paton. Moseley, was "a good first, ha\ing Lord Steyne. John Knox (maroon), Margaret Lennox. Edenside. Rosy Morn and John Ruskin. There were four competitors, Jlr. J. Fairlie, Acton, W., coming second ^vith a nice lot of flowers. For nine blooms, buff or terra-cotta selfs. one variety only, Miss Shiffner was first with Elizabeth ShifTncr ; three of four exliibitors showing this excellent variety. Mr. J. Douglas was the only exhibitor in the class for other selfs, showing Purple Emperor and taking first prize. This exhibitor was also in the premier position in the classes for nine wliite, crimson, yellow and scarlet selfs, ha\ing Bookham White, Sirs. G. Marshall, Daffodil and Fujiyama respectively. Good non-competitive exhibits of Carnations were staged by Mr. Douglas, Mr. St. John, Mr. D. B. Payne. Mr. Lakeman, Thornton Heath ; and Messrs. Phillips and Taylor, Bracknell. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. Herbaceous flowers were admirably -jhown at the fort- nightly meeting of the above society on July 14. Phloxes and Gladioli were conspicuous among hardy flowers, while Roses. Sweet Peas and border Carnations were alike well represented. Some excellent fruit, both indoor and from the open, was also on \iew ; but the show was not well attended, wiiich, however, is not unusual during the month of July. Fruit and Vegetable Coduttee. Present : J. Cheal, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs, J. Willard, A. Grubb, A. Bullock, G. Keif. W. Pope. H. J. Wright. O. Thomas, C. G. A. Ni\ and J. Da\is. A collection of bush and pot fruit shown by Maldwin Drummond, Esq., Cadland Park, Southampton"(gardener. Mr. L, Smith), calls for special mention. In addition to Apples, Pears and Plums on well-cropped trees, there were a great many dishes of Strawhcrries, Currants (red, black and whiter. Raspberries. Cherries, Peaches, Melons, Figs, Nectarines and Gooseberries : wiiile the Grapes Cannon Hall Muscat and Black Hamburgh were also shown. Silver-gilt Banlcsian medal. A collection of twelve dishes of liardy fruits was shown by Eric Hambro, Eso.. Pickliurst Mead, Hayes, Kent (gardener. Mr. Claud Davis). The best dishes included Currants Black Champion, Wiile Dutch and Red Dutch, Strawberries Laxton's Latest of All and Eleanor, Goose- berries Speedwell and Gage Berry, and Plum Golden Drop. Bronze Knightian medal. Apricots formed the chief feature of a collection of frxiits in pots shown by Messrs, William Paul and Son, Limited, Walt ham Cross. Of the Apricots showai we noticed the varieties Moor Park. Hcmskirk, Peach, Domayan and Blenheim. Moor Park is prol)ably the best of all. and it is intercstinc to note that it has been in cultivation for centuries. Silver Knightian medal. GARDEN. -^^=**^ ^^^p. ^ No. 2228.— Vol. LXXVIII. August i, 1914. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Our Garden Planning Competition. — We would raised from seed remind all those who are entering our competition , some may think for planning and planting the little garden that the rock garden completed designs must be sent in not later than September i. All competitors should carefully read the rules published in our issue dated May r6, and also the replies to queries in our issue for June 20. The rules can be had by sending lid. in stamps to the Editor. All envelopes •containing letters relating to the com- petition should be plainly marked " Planning Competition." Rose Gustave Regis.— For grow- ing as a large bush or rather low pillar there are few better Roses than this Hybrid Tea. It has a vigorous habit, and flowers freely when once established. The bush shown in the illustration is over five feet high, and has been in its present position three summers. The long, beautifully shaped buds are nankeen yellow in colour, this fading to cream as the blooms expand, when they are only semi-double. It is a splendid garden Rose, and one of the best varieties for button-holes. It was raised by M. Pemet-Ducher, and put into com- merce in 1890. A Raspberry Fraud. — During the last few weeks Loganberries have been freely sold in many fruiterers' shops for Raspberries. Although the Loganberry is a good and useful fruit, it is much inferior to the Raspberry, and as the same prices are being charged, the substitution can only be characterised as a fraud. Fortunately, it is not difficult to tell one fruit from the other. In the Loganberry there is a hard central core, which cannot be removed when the fruit is gathered ; but in the Raspberry the fruit, imless gathered for dessert or exhi- bilion, is pulled away from the core, and is therefore hollow. The Loganberry is also usually considerably larger than the Raspberry, and those who desire and pay for the latter should on their guard. A Pretty Floral Combination.— We were attracted the other day by a group of the beautiful scarlet dwarf Delphinium nudicaule growing in the rockery, among which had been planted sown in the spring Perhaps it was rather too formal for but no one could deny how effective the combination looked. Both are readily raised from seeds and are also suitable for the border. A Good Autumn Rock Garden Plant. — j One of the most suitable subjects for autumn ' ROSE GUSTAVE REGIS AS A LARGE BUSH. THIS VARIETY HAS LONG, POINTED, NANKEEN YELLOW BUDS AND IS IDEAL FOR BUTTON-HOLES. be fully effect is Silene Schafta, a little alpine plant that might be grown in almost any garden where such flowers are prized, yet is so often absent. Trailing over rocks or growing in crevices, it is remarkably pretty with its bright pink flowers (which are borne in great numbers) from the end of July and the white Butterfly Viola (Viola'"'<^-Papilio alba) : onwards. It is easily raised from seeds, and soon makes good plants ; or it may be readily increased from cuttings or by division. Shirley Poppies with Blue Tints.— Through the courtesy of Messrs. James Carter and Co. who sent out the seeds last spring with the reser- vation that they did not accept any responsibility for the raiser's description, we have been growing some of Mr. Luther Burbank's " blue " Shirley Poppies. Although the colour of these is far removed from that of the Gentian or the clouds of a summer sky, there is undoubtedly some sugges- tion of blue. The best we have had has been a sort of smoke blue colour which is not particularly pleasing. Public Rose Gardens in America. Public Rose gardens, we learn from the Florists' Exchange, are being planned and planted in many places in the United States of America, and our contemporary puts forward a plea on behalf of the Roses for generous treatment. At Elizabeth Park, Hartford, Connecticut, where the first of the public Rose gardens was formed in that country, they have an excellent plan for determining the value of new varieties. Before a novelty is planted in quantity in the Rose garden proper it has to undergo a test in a garden specially reserved for the purpose. We hope the day is not far distant when novelties in this country will have to undergo some test of their capabilities before receiving awards from the National Rose Society. The Wig or Smoke Tree.— At the present time, and for some weeks to come, one of the most striking of hardy shrubs in gardens will be Rhus Cotinus, the Vcr'cr.ian Sumach, or the Wig or Smoke Tree, so called on account of its feathery filaments. These small, thread-like filaments are really flower-stalks, a good proportion of which, however, have never home a flower, but are clothed mth numerous silky hairs that give the entire panicle the curious fluffy appearance that is so characteristic. The shrub attains a height of from 6 feet to 8 feet, with a sturdy habit. It is a native of Southern Europe and the Orient, whence it was no doubt introduced into this country about two hundred and sixty years ago. In the autumn the foliage changes to quite a brilliant ».oloiir. 386 THE GARDEN. [August i, 1914. CORRESPONDENCE. {The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed bv correspondents.) whole planting scheme this season, albeit there j the amount of experience possessed in exhibition are excellent beds of Fuchsias and also of Begonias matters generally — could allow the suggestions and scarlet Zonal Pelargoniums, with such things quoted to be printed in their schedule, the spirit White Rose Ointment Pot. — I now have pleasure in sending a photograph of the ointment pot referred to on page 374 of last week's issue. It is placed on the trivet or " treft," resting on the logs placed on the " dogs " or " brand irons " as in actual use in olden times, and still occasionally found in remote farmhouses. — Anne Amateur. Mowing Lawns Without a Grass-box.— R« " Note of the Week" for July 11. This is an operation that should be done with discretion. On lawns that are chiefly grass there is much to be said in favour of it, but how often we see lav\'ns that are nearly all weeds, chiefly the common Daisy. To mow such lawns without a box would be a great mistake, for although the Daisies may be as standard silver-leaved Veronicas, grey-leaved Eucalyptus, pink and rose Clarkias and Grevilleas to stand above the dwarfer subjects. It will be worth while keeping a note of the idea of using Salvias and Heliotropes in combination for another season, for a bed in the centre of a grass plot thus planted will produce a fine effect for a long period, and is a break-away from the orthodox Zonal Pelargoniums and Calceolarias. — Heather Bell. of which, I venture to think, would be calculated, to say the least, to be misleading, especially to beginners. The majority of your readers will, I feel sure, agree with your correspondent that the value of a decorated table lies in the grace and charm created by its light effect as a whole, so that those around the board mav " see through " without difficulty. In regard to the question raised as to the suitability of Sweet Peas and in flower at the time of cutting, many of them have sufficient nutriment left in them to ripen seeds ', with a distinct light centre as they lie on the ground, and would thereby make a weedy la'wn much worse. — F. G. P. Dianthus Atkinsonii. — In your issue of July 11, page 353, Mr. S. Amott, in his notes on Dianthus, speaks of D. Atkinsonii as a double rose pink. Surely what is generally known as D. Atkinsonii has single flowers of a vivid crimson-scarlet, one of the most gorgeous of coloured flowers. It is quite one of the best, and so free that it will often flower itself to death. It is a good plan to pre- vent one or two plants from flowering, although, if cut down as soon as the blooms are over, enough good growths are generally produced. — F. G. Preston, Botanic Garden, Cambridge. Erigeron Edina. — In your report of the Holland House Show you refer in appreciative terms to Erigeron Edina as exhibited by Messrs. Bunyard of Maidstone. I am sending you an illustration of a plant to show you what this Erigeron is capable of in the way of display. There are probably only two forms of white-flowered Erigeron grown in gardens, namely, E. Coulteri, a quick- spreading but sparsely flowered species, and E. neo-mexicana, a plant of little garden merit. The newer E. Edina is a trim-growing dwarf in issue No. 2226 of The Garden, page 363, an interesting point worthy of consideration. In reference to the " Hints to Exhibitors " men- tioned as being printed in the schedule of a well- known Yorkshire horticultural society, I would, at the outset, like to ask whether it is kno\vn that that particular society specially favours Roses at its shows ? Because, if so, that fact would probably account for the bias in the direc- tion shown in the " Hints." The reason for this question is because I happen to have been a member of a large Southern society in which this favouritism has been a conspicuous feature for some years, culminating during the current season in " Roses only " being stipulated as admissible in the class under notice. Otherwise, with the knowledge at our disposal, it is difficult to understand how a horticultural committee — the members of which are usually chosen for Two Beautiful Violets. — I have never met I Gypsophila elegans, perhaps I may be permitted anyone yet who did not like Violets. There are , to mention the fact that I have myself, with not many persons conversant with these modest I good Sweet Pea blooms, Gypsophila — using, but delightful flowers who do not know the varie- \ however, the double form of paniculata, which ties Princess of Wales, single, and Marie Louise, J gives better effect — and other light foliage, been double. There are, however, two more sorts that placed in front of competitors employing flowers should be added to every collection, namely, i of a less light character and probably costing Colcroonan, double, resembling Princess of Wales in I considerably more. Not only the blooms, but colour ; and Mrs. J. J. Kettle, double, light mauve, 1 the stems also of Sweet Peas possess the essential Both kinds of blooms quality of lightness. A desirable Sweet Pea in this connection is Mrs. Townsend, AN ANCIENT POT USED FOR MAKING ROSE OINTMENT. are freely borne on strong stems, those of Col- croonan being very long. — Avon. Lightness in Table Decorations. — Under this heading your correspondent H. A. Elliott raises. form, flowering over a long period with extra- ordinary freedom. It originated five years ago at Hopetoun Gardens, and was first offered to the public by Messrs. Cunningham and Fraser, Comely Bank Nurseries, Edinburgh. — T. Hay, Greenwich Park. [The photograph sent repre- sented a very good plant, but, unfortunately, was not suitable for reproduction. — Ed.] An Effective Flower-Bed. — Among the flower- beds in Finsbury Park — which just now are in fine condition — are some fiUed with a combmation of dwarf Heliotropes and scarlet Salvias, with standard Heliotropes at intervals at the sides and along the centre. The vivid scarlet of the free-flowering Salvias contrasts admirably with the colour of the Heliotropes, and the delightful fragrance of the latter completes the charm of what, to rnv mind, is the most effective of the the colour of which — white and violet — is equally good on the reverse side of the flower. Respect- ing the use of Sweet Peas for table decoration, there is one reservation I would make, which is that unless really first-class blooms are avail- able, it is better to use a subject such as Carnation May Day or Enchantress, still, however, using the lightest of foliage, together with the Gypsophila particularised. — B. W. Lewis. An Unusual Rose Stock. — Thinking it may prove of interest to readers of The Garden, and especially to Rose enthusiasts, I send a brief account of my dis- coverjf of an imusual stock having been used for grafting a Rose upon. I judge the stock to be a variety of Cotoneaster, but enclose a slip so that you may verify the same by a brief footnote. The shrub is now 3 feet or so in height, rather more across, and of a spreading habit. It is about four or five years ago since it first made its appearance above ground directly in front of a William Allen Richardson Rose, say, 15 inches from the chief stem. When first seen we had no idea of what it might be, and as there was no other plant just near, it was allowed to grow. Imagine my surprise when working around the Rose and shrub to find the latter growing elf a lar;e root which I traced back to the original rootstock of the Rose William Allen Richardson. Presumably such an experi- ment was the work of some nursery employ^, and it has certainly answered quite well, for I understand the said Rose has been where it now is eleven or twelve years. Of course, the first growths of the Cotoneaster were made at the expense of the Rose, the vigour of which was much impaired owing to our not being aware of the connection between the two. The flowers of the shrub are quite insignificant, and are just over, but the crimson berries which follow are rather attractive in the autumn and early winter. Has such a case been recorded before ? — C. Turner, Ken View Garden, Highgate. [The Cotoneaster sent was C. Simonsii. — Ed.] August i, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 387 New White Climbing Roses.— If Mr. H. E. Molyiiciix will grow Mrs, M. H. Walsh (Walsh, 1913), he will not be compelled to say " Wc still want a good white." The new-comer is absolutely white, with rosette-like blooms, freely produced. Its dark, shining foliage, like the bulk of the wichuraianas, makes a good contrast to the pure white flowers. In growth it is all that can be desired, and especially free flowering. Again, if Mr. Molyneux will grow Mrs. Littleton Dewhurst, which is another sport from Dorothy Perkins and ptire in colour, much superior to White Dorothy, which is especially inclined to sportive- ness this season, he will even then not have to make this complaint. — E. M. A Good Yellow Gladiolus. — In your issue of April 2.1 (page 204) a correspondent deals with the newer kinds of yellow Gladioli, but fails to mention Schwaben, a variety raised by Piitzer of Stuttgart, and which in Australia surpasses Glory of Noordwijk, which is recommended in the article referred to. Scliwaben has been exhibited here with twelve flowers in perfect order at once. The flowers are large and of a fine yellow, and the growth vigorous to a quite unusual degree. This variety was awarded a championship at Moe here on April 17 last. Glory of Noordwijk also has been sliown, but has attracted attention only by means of its high price. Golden Empress, a variety raised in Tasmania, is considered by some growers to be equal to Glory of Noordwijk, but Schwaben is always considered superior, though its colouring could be purer. Niagara varies terribly in its coloration, coming almost pink in some soils. Its facing leaves much to be desired also, but it t.lirows a very fair spike. — Gilbert Errey, Victoria, A ustralia. The Most Fragrant Rose. — I spent much time round the new class for fragrance at the Holland House Show, and am not at all surprised to read the remarks of " Old Rose " as to the strength and kind of fragrance contained in the winning blooms of Queen of Fragrance, the variety favoured by the judges and tlie winner of the " Clay " Cup. To me many of the remarks made by passers-by savoured of the unjust, because they appeared to be quite ignorant of the conditions required and judged the Roses staged by appear- ance, often ignoring entirely the fragrance alto- gether. One " expert " put his nose within an inch or so of the flowers and compared the fragrance to some Apples. I rejoined, " More like sour Grapes to you." I know dozens of people condemned the award entirely in ignorance, and I shall not be surprised if we have to read remarks in the Press made by such. While agreeing that Mrs. G. Norwood is a delightful Rose in many ways, and pleasingly sweet too, it must be admitted that the blooms in question were not equal to those selected, as they suffered somewhat from age. I do not mean they were not fresh, but not equal in any way to what this variety was shown much earlier in the season. I think it must be admitted that even the fragrance of a Rose wanes as the blooms become smaller in their season. I tested all the blooms staged most carefully many times after the judges had pronounced their award, and I am irrmly con- vinced that they spared no pains to arrive at a correct decision. I watched them closely all the time they were engaged. Of coiurse, I shall be told this is only a matter of opinion. That may be so, but I want readers to understand that the award was not made in a perfunctory manner by the lady and gentleman appointed. I .1111 thoroughly convinced no injustice was done to other ex]iil>itors. — Edwin Molyneux. Naming of Daffodils. — I have always rather prided myself on taking some pains and care in giving appropriate names to my Daffodil seedlings, so that the criticisms of your Colonial correspon- dent " A. E. G.," page 362, issue Ju'.y 18, touch me in a very tender spot. He finds some fault with the naming of Swashbuckler, a flower which, I gather, he has never seen. I am sure that were he to see it, he would at once grasp the appropriateness of the name. Its section is, I should say, on the border line between a Giant Leedsii and a Giant incomparabilis ; but it is a great, bold, aggressive - looking flower, with enormous substance both in flower and stem, so much so that when I exhibited it in London a gentleman to whom I was showing it asked me as a favour not to hit him with it ! I have no interest in it now, as the stock has passed into the hands of my friends Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin ; but I remember that Mr. Goodwin, when making the purchase, remarked on the particular appropriateness of the name, and I cannot help wishing that " A. E. G." had also had a view of it ; in which case I am sure that he would not have included it in his list of undesirable or inappropriate names. — F. Herbert Chapman. The Leaf-cutting Bee among Pelargoniums.— Looking over some scarlet Zonals recently, I was surprised to find on many of the flower-trusses that small portions of the petals had been removed by clean, regular, crescent-shaped cuts. I guessed this must be the work of the leaf-cutting bee, although I had never before known this clever and industrious — though destructive — insect to choose the flowers of Pelargoniums for its labours, the usual thing being for it to attack the foliage of Rose bushes. However, I bade my little son keep watch upon the plants, and, sure enough, before long the bee appeared, alighted on a petal, cut out a piece and flew off with it. Having learned that this was the case, I took up the observation myself, and found that, at regular intervals of five minutes, the bee returned to my plants. This showed me that its nest must be a considerable distance ofi" ; but by the aid of binoculars I was enabled to watch the bee to ascertain the direction of its flight. Within three days I had traced its home and destroyed it ; but not before some hundreds of pieces had been deftly removed from the flowers of my Zonals. Strange to say, although I had Paul Crampel, Jacoby and the Ivy-leaved Mme. Crousse growing side by side with Vesuvius and Raspail, only the last two varieties were attacked, from which I gather that whatever colour is first chosen is adhered to during the whole operation of nest-building. If any readers notice a number of crescent-shaped cuts on their flowers or on their Rose leaves, it will be as well to watch for the leaf-cutting bee, for if unchecked this busy little insect will work extraordinary mischief among the plants. — Heather Bell. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. August 3. — Fiower Show at Carshalton. August 4. — Flower Show at Abbey Park, Leicester (two days). Scottish Horticultural Association's Meeting. August 7. — Perthshire Sweet Pea and Rose Show (two days). Dundee Horticultural Associa- tion's Meeting. August 8. — Stirling Horticultural Association's Outing to Callender Park, Falkirk. THE LILY SEASON IN SCOTLAND. ORIENTAL and American Lilies in L South-Western Scotland have been I materially stimulated in their f growth and flowering potentialities by the advent of the recent rains. Previously it appeared as if they were making but little progress in the direction of floral evolution. Perhaps the one outstanding exception was the fair Madonna Lily, Lilium candidum, which seems less susceptible than many other Lilies of less attractiveness to atmospheric influences. This is still one of the most beautiful of all Lilies, for its flowers are invariably richly ornamental and refined in their fragrance. L. longiflorum is also for the most part com- paratively easy of culture when it is assigned a sunny, sheltered situation and a moderately fertile soil ; but only too often it reduces to a minimum its splendid possibilities by the creation of a large number of impotent miniature bulbs. On the other hand, the great Himalayan Lily, L. giganteum, which grows grandly at Monreith and Lochinch Castle, though it usually generates several offsets of a considerable size, seldom suffers so perceptibly from this special cause. But then it must be remembered that its offspring sometimes take from four to five years to reach tlicir full dimensions, while those of L. longiflorum develop very rapidly. This is especially character- istic of the fine variety entitled L. Harrissii when cultivated in a warm conservatory. In my own garden the first Oriental Lily to flower adequately this season was L. Hansonii, the luminous Yellow Martagon, which invariably produces an artistic effect. This variety was quickly followed by L. szovitzianum, "which this year approximated to a height of 8 feet. Its citron- coloured, pendent flowers are exceedingly graceful. One of the loveliest contemporariee of the Persian Lily in this sequestered region of Scotland is L. washingtonianum, a native of California, which, with its charming aspect and delicately Woodbine-like aroma, may be described, without exaggeration, as a veritable gem. Next in order of flowering here come the Siberian davuricum (varieties erectum and incomparabile) and the even more richly coloured Californian Panther Lily, L. pardalinum, of which one of the finest and most reliable varieties is Burbankii. L. Henryi, a distinctive Lily from Western China, with a uniquely pendulous characteristic, is at present developing with a gratifying vigorous- ness ; so also are L. auratum platyphyllum and L. virginale ; while the noblest forms of L. speciosum, and especially L. s. KrEetzeri and L. s. magnificum, promise to be splendidly impressive this year. David R. Williamson. Manse of Kirkmaiden, Wigtownshire, Scotland. TWO LITTLE KNOWN ANNUALS. There are a number of beautiful annuals that are ideal subjects for the rock garden, among which may be mentioned DowTiingia pulchella and Eucha- ridium Breweri, the former with large Lobelia-like flowers of rich blue with yellowish eye, and th» latter with beautiful pink flowers, which, from an outward appearance, one might compare with the beautiful Shortia uniflora, although it is in no way related. Both are natives of California, and are among the gayest of annuals at the present time. 388 THE GARDEN. [August i IQI4. HARDY AMERICAN PRIMU LAS. PROFESSOR BAYLEV BALFOUR classes the nineteen named American Primulas into three sections — Farinosa, Cuneifolia, and Nivalis, though he does not consider this grouping final. It will thus be observed that this area, so rich in other hardy plants, gives us a small number of Primulas. Some of them are of special interest, and the greater number are worthy of more extended cultivation. Of those I mention, all are hardy with the exception of P. Rusbyi, which is so nearly hardy with me that I think it desirable to class it with the other hardy American species I have cultivated. Primula americana (Rydberg). — P. americaua of Rydberg is admittedly a microform of the wide- spread P. farinosa, and it is classed by some botanists as P. farinosa variety genuina. It has the leaves farinose beneath, obovate- oblong, obtuse and crenulate or denticu- late. It is a native of the Rocky Mountains, and occurs in Alberta, Colorado and Montana. It can be cultivated tmder the same conditions as other forms of P. farinosa, and is an attractive little Primula. P. davurica (Spreug.). — Pax does n..t admit this to specific rank, and makc^ it a. sub-species of P. farinosa. — This is mentioned in nu accoimt of the Asiatic, but not Chincs' or Japanese Primulas, page i8o, April ii issue, and need not be further discussed at present, except to state that it has been fomid in Saskatchewan. P. eximia (Greene). — This member of the Nivalis section is spoken of among the Japanese species, page 280, May 30 issue, and reference may be made to that article for further information. It will suffice here to say that it is found in the Aleutian and Pribilof Islands. P. groenlandica (Warming). — This is another of the microforms of P. farinosa which are denied specific rank by Pax. It is a native of Greenland and Labrador, and is P. strict a of Lange. The leaves are large for the size of the plant, and are more or less farinose beneath, deeply denticulated or nearly entire, the base narrowing into petiole. The scape is stout, and rises above the leaves. The flowers are violet. Cultivation: Same as P. farinosa. P. magellanica (Lohmann). — In this we have another of the F'arinosa section which is classed by Pax as a variety. For garden purposes it may be called a form of the Bird's-eye Primroses. It is a robust form, with rhomboid-elliptic, crenate- denticulate leaves, the sturdy scape rising above these. The flesh-coloured or white flowers are almost capitate or on short pedicels. The habitat of this Primula is one of the most curious in phytegeography. How this Northern species has contrived to jump over the whole American Continent, to pass the Equator, and to establish itself in the extreme South, is a mystery as yet unexplained by science. It is found in Fuegia and Chile, and is plentiful in the Falkland Islands, where, on a few of the islands where there are no sheep, the hillsides are covered with its white or lavender-coloured flowers, and these grow to I J feet to 2 feet high. In former years it reached that height in all the islands, but the species has dwindled in size since the introduction of tlie sheep. It is a good garden plant. P. mistassinica (Michx.). — Another form of P. farmosa, P. mistassinica, which is P. pusilla (Goldie), P. tenius (Small) and P. Macalliana (Wiegand), is a considerably smaller plant, and only grows from i inch to 6 inches high. It has spatulate or obovate leaves, which are generally green on both sides, but are occasionally sparsely farinose beneath, and denticulated or repand, obtuse at the apex, and narrowed or cuneate at the base. The flowers are from two to six in the umbel, and are pink or pale purple, with or without a yellow eye. The corolla lobes are obcordate. It is a native of wet banks, and extends generally from Newfoundland to the Rocky Moun- tains. It is also found in Northern Europe. P. Parryi (A. Gray). — ^This native of the sides of the alpine brooks of North America comes from out by the general experience. It is a very distinct species of the Cuneifolia section, and came from the Rockies of Arizona and New Mexico in 1885. The leaves are sometimes as much as 4 inches in length and rather more than half that in wdth. The flower-scape rises a little above the leaves and bears an umbel of from two to ten peculiarly scented flowers of a crimson-purple colour, nodding to one side, with a deep irregular ring round the yellow throat of the corolla. The calyx is prettily striped with %vhite meal. I cannot grow it in the open, but it succeeds moderately well in a cold house with the pots pltmged in and covered over with ashes during- the winter season. It blooms with me, although late, but does not seed. P. integrifolia (Gumer ex Oeder). — It will, perhaps, be better to speak of this plant as a form of P. sibirica, of which it is a microform. As I shall refer to P. sibirica in connection with the Himalayan species, it is needless to deal \vith it in detail now. It is, of course, quite distinct from the European P. integrifolia, L. P. suflrutescens (A. Gray). — This sub-shrubby species, introduced in 1884 from Sierra Nevada, proves fairly hardy with me in a sheltered, well-drained spot in the rockery, but I find it does better when grown as a pot plant in a cold house. It has much the appear- ance of a dwarf shrub with its branches lying along the gromid. The pretty pink flowers are borne well above the leaves on erect stems. Partly owing to the fact of the branches resting on the ground, they are apt to rot off during the winter months. This species, like others, is best raised from seed, but can also be increased by layering and from cuttings. Cultivation : Light, well- drained soil, with a fair amount of sun. P. Warei (Stein) = P. americana (Rydberg). John Macwatt. Mordands. Dims. PRIMULA RUSBYI, A LITTLE-KNOWN SPECIES WITH CRIMSON PURPLE FLOWERS. short near the snowline of the Rocky Mountains, from Colorado, through Nevada and Arizona. It was introduced in 1875, and figured in the Botanical Magazine of the same year. In that publication it was said to be the handsomest Primula in cultiva- tion with the exception of P. japonica. Having grown this Primula in quantity, I cannot share or support this opinion. All the same, it cannot be denied that it is a good plant, although difficult to cultivate in most places. I have no difiiculty with it planted deeply in good soil in a Rose bed. It has bright purple flowers, about an inch across, with long scapes bearing frequently a dozen blooms in an umbel. The leaves are, sessile or narrowed into a broad petiole, erect, obtuse or sub- acute, and obscurely toothed or entire. It is from 6 inches to 18 inches high. Cultivation : Good rich, well-drained soil in half shade facingwest. P. Rusbyi (Greene). — Unfortunately, I cannot say that P. Rusbyi is hardy and easy to grow — at least, it is not so with me, and this is bonie GILLENIAS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. The Gillenias are graceful subjects, known to some .\merican botanists as the Porteranthus, in lieu of the more acceptable name of Gillenia, to which we are most accustomed. They are elegant, Spitcea-like plants of much beauty, although not of a showy nature, and are excellent flowers for the border, the wild garden, or the open parts of the woodlands, where, when plentiful enough to mass in broad array, they would make a much finer effect than if planted dotted here and there in the woodlands. They are, however, choice enough and good enough for planting in the flower border. The Gillenias arc close allies of the Spirsas, but do not produce their flowers in the large panicles generally borne by these valued plants. The flowers are while or pinkish, but few are quite devoid of the tinge of pink, wliich lends a little additional briglilness to the flower. As will be understood from the introductory remarks, these Gillenias present few obstacles to the cultivator, but they dislike a poor and dry soi'. A moist situation is preferred, and this can be afforded in most gardens. They rather like some shade, so that they are valuable for shady places — no slight recommendation in many gardens. There are two species of Gillenia, the tirsl, (i. I August i, 1914-] THE GARDEN. 389 trifoliata, the Indian's Physic or Bowman's Root of its native land, the Northern United States of America. It grows from 2 feet to 4 feet high, and is the finer of the two species. It has narrower stipules tlian the succeeding one, and is glabrous and not pubescent, as is the latter. Tlie other, G. stipulacea, the American Ipecacuanha, is much the same in general appearance, but is inferior as a garden plant because]Ji of the fact that it has fewer and smaller flowers. The Gillenias are increased by division in spring or autumn, and can also be raised from seeds. S. Arnott. HYACINTHS, NARCISSI, AND TULIPS FOR FORCING. THE time lias again come round when the preparation of forcing bulbs must be concluded ; for, be it said, preparatory proceedings have been going on for a long time. Narcissi lifted some weeks since for pot culture were planted two and three years ago, and only the best of these have been selected, the inferior ones being replanted for outdoor flowering and for the pro- duction of forcing material in the future. Commonly called Dutch bulbs, as is well known, undergo similar preparatory culture, extend- ing over years, the cheaper qualities being immature and, consequently, incapable of producing the best flowers. I have nothing to say against "cheap" bulbs, and there is no good reason why they should not be a marketable commodity, only it should be understood that a Daffodil, for instance, that has been grown from an offset one year, and then may or may not yield one b'Oom of inferior quality, cannot compete with a three j-ear old bulb giving its two or three superior blooms, and for which an enhanced price is charged, though it is fair to say only slightly enhanced in com- parison to the superior results. In Tulips the blooms are larger, and in general better coloured in high-class bulbs than in immature ones ; and in Hyacinths the spike is quite another thing from the feeble production of the third- rate quality. The same occurs in Lily of the Valley, Crocuses, Spirsas and other forcing material, and no cultivation, however proper, will have the slightest effect in improving the flowers beyond the limits prescribed by their previous treatment. In a bulb of mature age, furnished with the embryonic foliage and flowers of the succeeding season, cultivation brings out the highest quality it is possible to attain, and it is with these that failure, less or more obvious, occurs when the cultivation is indifferent. The principle the bulb-grower has to go upon, therefore, is to endeavour by a treatment proper to the special plant to induce it to perfect the future flowers and foliage concealed within the bulb to the greatest possible limit. Everything that the future can bring forth is already there, and cultivation is concerned solely in exhibiting its proportions in due season. The Best-Sized Pots.— It is a very good old rule that the material for forcing early should be allotted to smaller pots than that not to be subjected to that treatment, which it will be seen resolves itself into a question of time to make the needed number of roots, and also to allow for shortening the time the requirements of the plant naturally demands. That this is by no means an unimportant part in early forcing is proved by Continental material, which comes to maturity annually in advance of that produced at home, forces more easily than the latter, and also from the fact that forced bulbs planted in the open retain for a time the earliness thus forced upon them. This rule applies more to Narcissi and Hyacinths than to Tulips, but in all it is worth keeping in mind. I use for Hyacinths 4-inch, and for Narcissi 5-inch, pots. For early forcing. Tulips do well enough in 5-inch and 6-inch ones. compost, free for the roots to penetrate, does away to a large extent with the need of a cumbrous drainage system. Thus for Narcissi, which I grow in 5-inch to g-inch pots, one piece of potsherd is as a rule all that is employed, with a layer of rough material laid upon it. Tulips need no more, but Hyacinths are less complacent, and for 6-inch pots small potsherds are necessary as well as large ones. It is clear that space unappropriated — shall I say misappropriated ? — -by drainage pro- vides an additional space for soil, hence a larger root-run, and this may be further increased by keeping the bulb well up. Bulbs of Narcissi need very little of their bulk buried, Tulips rather more, and Hyacinths should not be much exposed. As already hinted. Narcissi and Tulips should be potted with the bulbs almost touching, and it therefore depends on the dimensions of the bulbs individually how many shall be grown in each pot. The earliest Hyacinths, such as General Prissier, do well one bulb in a 4-inch PRIMULA SUFFRUTESCENS, A NATIVE OF SIERRA >JEV.\DA. THE FLOWERS ARE PINK. For Narcissi and Tmlips I pack as man)' bulbs into a pot — of whatever dimensions — as it will hold. Provided the compost is suitable and plenty of roots as a result are produced, all that is necessary for the grower to see to is that the plants are well fed and never neglected. The Soil. — It is a well-kno-wn fact that these plants can perform all the functions of leaf and flower production on water and on fibre ; hence the grower who fails to provide a compost deficient in porosity — one in which leaf-mould, for instance, is largely proportioned, and sand, if reqtiired — is to that extent courting disaster. So also the compost should not be compressed to anything like the extent of ordinary greenhouse plants, and it is noteworthy that the very unsuspicious- like practice of pressing a Hyacinth or Tulip into the soil may result in its roots refusing to enter the soil at all, and to throw the bulb upwards, a derelict for the nonce. A nicely imagined pot, and for 6-inch pots three in a pot is the number I use. Darwin Tulips require slightly more space than the early singles and doubles, and very glorious masses of the former are provided when 8-inch and g-inch pots are used. In these large pots the bulbs may be arranged in two stages, one lower than the other, and by staking out the outermost plants large specimens suitable and, indeed, indispensable for decoration are secured. Space is e.xhausted, but I would like to add : Do not attempt to grow many varieties. To have very early flowers, rather confine yourself to one Tulip, Proserpine ; one Hyacinth, General Pelissier ; and one Daffodil, Golden Spur. Pot all the Narcissi at the earliest moment, the others when they come to hand, with relays in September and October ; and in forcing proceed slowly till the flower spike or stem shows that it is pushing freely, darkness up to an advanced stage having a ver\- favourable effect. R. P. Brotherston. 390 THE GARDEN. [August i, 1014. NOTES ON JAPANESE IRISES. IN spite of cuntinuous drought in our East Coast district, 1914 has otherwise been a good year for Japanese Irises, and a few notes concerning them may be welcome to many readers. The standard Japanese forms, including the lovely Deep Blue Waters, have been very fine, and several of these are worthy of mention. Among the more notable of the .Japanese forms I will name Zama- no-mori, a beautiful, large, three-petalled form, pure white sa\'e for the yellow blottlies and just the lawn or grassland, so that it would be an easy matter to flood the Iris plants during dry weather. For manuring, nothing equals cow-manure. Propagation is chiefly confined to division, and here let me advise the reader as to the time of operation. All division of the Japanese Irises is best effected directly after flowering. The clumps should be carefully lifted, and each strong growth severed separately wath the roots attached. These should be potted up in enriched soil of which the body is good loam, using 4j-inch pots. After potting, place the plants on a good ash-bed in the open, and keep them watered as necessary with a rosed can, damping the foUage JAPANESE IRISES EFFECTIVELY GROUPED BY THE WATERSIDE AT WISLEY. a suggested suffusion of light blue. Kumo-no-obi, the lovely Band of Cloud of the Japanese, is a lavender purple, with the yellow blotches halved in white, a pretty three-petalled form. Very noteworthy is Shirataki, the White Waterfall, with its fine white petals of marvellous beauty. With its six massive petals Shirataki is one of the grandest Irises in existence. Kyodaisan is purple with blue and striking orange blotches, and is of high merit. This, again, is six-petaUed. Choseiden is ruby crimson, a lovely big flower with a halo of white surrounding the yellow blotches. Kasugano, a red lilac variety, is a glorious flower, and worthy of attention. Then there are Oyodo, a large violet blue ; Momiji-no-taki, crimson purple, suffused and feathered with white ; Warai- hotei, a large lavender blue ; Osho-kun, a brilliant Tyrian blue ; Yedo-jiman, deep blue and purple ; and several others equally noteworthy. For the interest of readers I add a few cultural notes. The Irises are worthy of the utmost atten- tion in the matter of sites for planting. The ideal position is one where they can grow with their heads in the sun and their toes in the water. A deep, loamy soil, plenty of moisture, and an open position with full exposure will be ideal. If one possesses a garden pool or a winding streani, it is an easy matter to make an Iris swamp or Iris garden. If no waterway is possible, the next best plan would be to make some sunken beds in as well as the soil. In a short time the pots will be full of new roots. Then the new situations or beds can be prepared, working soot, cow-manure and perhaps a little bone-meal into the soil. Deep cultivation is a great asset toward ultimate success, and if the above system is followed, the young plants are established before tlie winter. Now for just a few words in reference to our own hybrid seedlings of 1914. This year we have flowered many fine seedlings, of which the best have been marked for propagation. A few of the best are : Matsushima, a large six-petalled flower of a soft sky shade, overlaid with a suffusion of blue, and lines of blue which deepen to purple at the edges. The usual yellow blotches are very conspicuous, and the plant strong in growth. Kameido, a lovely ruby red of immense size, with a big halo of white around the golden blotches, is very striking. Lady Marjorie is another large six-petalled form with a ground colour of wliite. The petals are delicately lined and suffused with blue and purple, and the usual characteristic yellow blotches are most effective. The Dove, a pure white, which will be quite worthy to rank with the standard whites Shirataki and Zama-no-mori, is six-petalled, bul differs from most white K.^mpferis by reason of its carrying three petals as standards. These three are pure white, but the fall petals have the yellow blotch. Clacton-on-Sea. P. S. Hayvvard. COLOURED PLATE. PLATE 1499. DAFFODILS IN GRASS. IT has never been my good fortune to sic the Daffodils in the grass in bloom at Kew, but if anything would make me undertake a journey there next spring to have a look at them, it would be the coloured plate in this week's issue. They arc arranged just as I would plant them myself, not in one huge homogeneous mass, whose only charm would be its size and solid magnificence, but in patches of irregular size and varying contour, some of which would contain only two or three bulbs, while the largest ones might be made up of two or three hundred. These groups I would place " anyhow " in the space to be allotted to them, taking care that there was always a sufficieic y of unplanted grass lietween them. Kew fulfils my ideal in this respect also. Thirdly, it will be noticed that all the flowers in the foreground of the picture are all of one kind, probablv either Empress or Horsfieldii, and that it is not until the trunks of the large trees are almost reached that we have a change, when the white effect gives place to an expanse of yellow, it might be of Emperor orSir Watkin, or even princeps. This is on quite the right lines. In striving to get the best effects in a garden, massing is always a very important factor, but never more so than in planting Daffodils in grass or in a woodland. Keeping the different kinds by themselves does more than anything to lend a charm to the scene ; while, on the other hand, planting in dabs only gives us a sense of muddle. These, then, are the three main principles w-hich, I think, should guide all Daffodil planting in grass: (i) Plant in irregular masses of one variety ; {2) leave grass spaces between the clumps ; (3) keep the masses of the same variety more or less together. I do not think I am divulging any editorial secrets when I say that Kew and myself are supported by no less eminent an authority than Sir Frederick Moore of Dublin, who will have an article on "Daffodils in Grass" in the 1914 Royal Horticultural Society's " Daffodil Year Book," in which he records his practice and experi- ence in the Botanic Gardens at Glasnevin, where, some five years ago, it was my privilege to see them in their full glory. " There can be no com- parison as to the more pleasing effect of a bold expanse of one variety and of a mixture." Proceeding from the general to the practical, I would say that nearly any variety may be used, and that the only consideration that need very much trouble the planter is the effect that he wants to produce — I mean, for example, if a succession of bloom is required, or if a gradation in shading is thought desirable. Catalogues must then be consulted where times of flowering and colour descriptions arc given. Apart from all particular requirements, the following are among those I have found satisfactory: Lobularis, John Bull, Stella, Horsfieldii, Emperor, Citron, princeps. triandrus albus, Queen of Spain, I'oeticus reciu'vus, Sir Watkin, Barrii . conspicuus and Mrs. Langtry. m '^ H < Z m U CO O Z a. OO 5 5 August i, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 391 The best time to plant is in October, or even eurly November if the autumn has been a dry one. In any case a sufficiency of rain sliould have fallen to thoroughly moisten the ground. The work is then much more expeditious, and the bulbs com- mence to root " right away." I always use a Barr's Bulb Planter, and from my own experience it is what I would advise any- one to work with who is going in for grass planting on an extensive scale. Three men (or women, for women can do the work very well) are best for the job — one to make the holes, one to place a little good soil in the bottoms, and a third to put the bulb in and replace the round bit of turf. In the clumps plenty of room should be left between the plants to allow for their natural increase. Six or even eight or nine inches is none too much to allow in the case of the larger and more robust varieties. Lastly, even if it is like taking coals to Newcastle, I must insist upon the practice of leaving the foliage uncut until about the middle of June, when the foliage has gone yellow. One year's premature cutting off will onlv weaken, but a sen nd will probably kill the bulbs, as I know the powers that be in a famous gar- ,-^- den not long since found out to their cost. Joseph Jacob. Later explorations led to the discovery of species intermediate in the shape of the corolla ; hence the species are all now placed under Cobaoa. On the ground of invalidation, Mr. H. D. House trans- ferred all the species of Coba;a to Rosenbergia in 1908, but this change has not been sustained. The species of Coba3a are : C. penduliflora (Standley ; Karsten). — " Flora Columbia," Plate 14, under the name of Rosen- bergia penduliflora. Native of Venezuela, but no particulars of locality are on record. This is not the plant cultivated under the same name. See next species. C. hookeriana (Standley). — The same as C. penduliflora (Hooker), Botanical Magazine, Plate 5757. Native of Venezuela. Raised at Kew from seeds received from Mr. A. Ernst, and flowered in the Palm House in December, 1868. C. panamensis (Standley). — Native of the mountains of Chiriqui, Panama, at elevations of 4,000 feet to 5,650 feet. This differs from C. hookeriana in having a deep purple corolla with very narrow lobes and narrow calyx lobes. C. aschersoniana (Brand). — Native of Costa Rica at elevations of 6,000 feet to 7,000 feet. C. triflora (Donuell Smith). — Native of Guate- mala at about 4,500 feet. C. campanulata (Hemsley). — Native of Atacama, Chili. C. minor (Martens and Galeotti). — Native of Mexico and Costa Rica, ascending to 10,000 feet. C. Trianaei (Hemsley). — Native of Colombia ; imperfectly known. C. pachysepala (Standley). — Native of Guate- mala at 9,000 feet to ro,ooo feet. C. tomentulosa (Standley). — Native of Guate- mala at about 8,000 feet. C. biaurita (Standley). — Native of .South Mexico at 4,000 feet to 5,500 feet. C. Pringlei (Standley). — Native of North Mexico, in the Sierra Madre, near Monterey, Nuevo Leon. This locality is far north of that of any other species. The flowers are very similar in shape to those of Campanula carpatica. C. stipularis (Bentham). — Botanical Register, XXVII., Plate 25, 1841. Native of Mexico ; introduced by Hartweg. C. scandens (Cavanilles). — Botanical Magazine, Plate 851. Native of Mexico. I find no records THE GENUS COB/EA A S long ago as 1880 I contri- /% buted an article on the / \ genus Cobaea to The / % Garden (Vol. XVIL, ^ * page 352), embodying the species then known with their distribution, and other particulars and descriptions of two new species. .Altogether eight species are there dealt with, including four that were, or had been, in cultivation. Two years later I had no additions to make to the genus in the Botany of Godman and Salvia's " Biologia Centrali-.A.mericana." But a synopsis of the species by Mr. A. Brand in 1907 brings the number up to eleven, and in a revision by Mr. P. C. Stand- ley in an American publication, re- ceived a short time ago, the total is increased to eighteen. It may be useful to repeat some of the information I gave thirty-four years ago before giving the new. Cobaea belongs to the same family as Phlox and Polemonium, and it is singular in the family in habit, climb- ANOTHER ing by means of tendrils. The species are all American, ranging from North Mexico, through Central America, to Chili, Vene- zuela and North Brazil ; but none has yet been discovered in the West Indies. They grow naturally in humid, subtropical forests, and some of them, like the familiar C. scandens, reach the tops of tall trees. Cobsea was founded on C. scandens, which has, it will be remembered, a campanulate corolla not unlike that of the Canterbury Bell. In 1856 Oersted described an allied plant under the name of ■ Rosenbergia gracilis, though it had all the essential characters of a Cobaja, except the corolla. This is smaller and deeply divided into slender lobes, and of very different appearance. VIEW OF THE JAPANESE IRISES IN THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S AT WISLEY. GARDENS Corolla intermediate between typical Cobjea and typical Rosenbergia. C. gracilis (Hemsley). — The type of Oersted's genus Rosenbergia. Native of Costa Rica and Panama. Flowers small ; colour not given. C. viorna (Standley). — Native of Guatemala up to an altitude of 3,500 feet. Flowers greenish yellow, about one and a-half inches long. C. villosa (Standley). — Native of San Salvador. C. lutea (Don) = C. macrostemma (Pavon). — Botanical Magazine, Plate 3780. Native of Guatemala and Costa Rica. Raised at Kew from seeds sent from Guatemala. of altitude beyond " near the city of Mexico," which is situated above 7,000 feet. The date of the introduction of this species is usually given as 1792, the year the'^ figure was published in the Botanical Magazine; but in the text it is stated that the drawing was prepared from a plant that flowered in Woodford's nursery in 1784. For showiness of flowers none of the foregoing new species enumerated excels C. hookeriana (C. penduliflora) and C. scandens, but several of them surpass the cultivated species in grace and elegance. W. Hotting Hemsley, LL.D. Strawberry Hill. 392 THE GARDEN. [August i, 1914. AUGUST NOTES ON VEGETABLES. Peas. — Although it is now late to make sowings, sliould the weather be favourable during September and October the resultant crop would be found extremely useful. Varieties best suited for sowing now are The Gladstone, Ne Plus Ultra, Goldfinder, Late Queen and Latest of All. Make a good preparation before somng the seed, dig deeply, and well soak the drills before sowing if the soil is at all dry. This will hasten germination and encourage the plants to grow quickly. Keep the plants well watered and mulched to guard against mildew attacks. On the first sign of this fungus dust the plants with sulphur, or syringe them with an antidote, such as Seride. Established rows coming into bearing should be freely supplied with liquid manure, or even clear water, to facili- tate growth and the swelling of the pods. Mulch- ing with half-decayed manure is a valuable aid turning in ; placing a leaf over the heads keeps them fresh and pure in colour. The growing leaves should be cracked across the midrib in a position sufficiently long to cover the flower, as these leaves last fresh so much longer than a separated leaf, which so soon withers during hot weather. Potatoes, in spite of the drought, are looking remarkably well where the preparation was of the best — deep digging and liberal manuring in the autumn, and the soil frequently stirred between the rows since planting. No time should be lost in spraying the haulm for the second and last time. Many persons do not think spraying is of any value in preventing disease. I have noted that those who spray regularly have less disease than those who do not spray at all. In any case, spraying does no harm, and it certaiiUy prolongs the life of the haulm, to the advantage of the crop. Strawsonite Bordeaux mixture dissolved in clear cold water at the rate of 20lb. of Strawsonite to loo gallons of water is sufficient CLEMATIS GRATA GKANDlUJiNTA, A NEW AND ROBUST VARIETY FROM CHINA. NEEDS PLENTY OF SPACE FOR ITS VIGOROUS SHOOTS. to the prevention of mildew, which is caused in a dry season by drought at the roots. French Beans. — A sowing should be made in cold frames so arranged that the lights can be put on as the nights lengthen and become colder. The crop from this sowing will be found extremely useful in October. Sow thinly to enable the plants to grow sturdily, as under such conditions they will give double the crop of those drawn up by overcrowding. Selected Ne Plus Ultra and Canadian Wonder are excellent varieties. The plants already bearing in frames should be well supplied with water, syringed daily, and have the Beans picked as fast as they are ready. Cauliflowers should be in abundant supplies of the best quality. Those plants intended for use in September and October should have copious supplies of liquid manure during dry weather, and a mulching around the plants with half- decayed manure, thus encouraging a freedom of growth which gives pure white succulent heads. Attention should be closely paid to plants just for an acre. An ordinary knapsack sprayer of the pneumatic pattern answers well for a small patch. It is not the quantity of liquid that is required, but it should be evenly distributed over the under side of the leaves equally with the upper surface. As the early varieties ripen they should be lifted and the seed carefully stored when dry in a cool shed, selecting tubers 20z. in weight as a fair sample. The idea that it is necessary to expose them sufficiently long for the skins to become green is not now believed in. Tomatoes. — Outdoor plants are growing freely, as they revel in hot weather as long as they arc sufficiently supplied with moisture at the roots. Restrict the growth to two stems at the most, removing all side shoots as fast as they appear, and keep the leading shoots neatly tied to supports of some kind. Plants carrying full crops of fruit should have a mulching of half-decayed manure and be liberally supplied with liquid mamire or a sprinkling of superphosphate of lime on the surface, afterwards watering it in. The plants under glass should have similar attention in the matter of pruning off surplus shoots and shortenitig back the leaves where they are too plentiful for the fruit to obtain sun to aid ripening. Indoor plants should not be too freely fed with strong stimulants, as they are more liable to attacks of disease than outdoor plants during hot, dry weather. The first signs of disease in the leaves necessitates prompt measures being taken to arrest its progress, cutting off those affected at once and dusting the plant with flowers of sulpliur. Turnips. — Continue to sow Snowball and .All the Year Round, first watering the drills to expedite germination of the seed. Directly the plants appear above the soil, dust with wood- ashes and soot. Water frequently to encourage quick growth and to ward off Turnip fly attacks, and keep the soil between the rows well stirred. Brussels Sprouts well repay any extra attention in watering and mulching during dry weather, as, the taller the plants grow, the greater will be the crop of sprouts later on. The reason so many persons fail to grow this estimable winter vegetable well is because they defer sowing and planting too long, the consequence being the plants have not the opportunity to attain even a reasonable height. If tall- growing sorts like Matchless and Exhibition grow 4 feet high, all the better. Any plants that do not appear vigorous should have assistance in the shape of a pinch of nitrate of soda sprinkled around the plant. This stimulant will quickly give a fillip to growth. Carrots. — Now is the time to make preparation for an early winter supply of succulent roots of the Horn type. Sow in rows in frames that have been used for Potatoes or Marrows, the soil for those crops being of the right kind for Carrots. Shade until the plants arc showing through the soil ; then remove the lights daily, encouraging a stocky growth. Replace them as the nights become cooler. Swanmorc. E. .Molvnei-.x. A NEW CHINESE CLEMATIS. Clematis grata graxdidextata is a new variety introduced from China by Mr. E. H. Wilson, who describes it as " a mountain plant abundant in the thickets, margins of woods and copses throughout Central and Western China." The species C. grata is a Himalayan climber allied to our native Traveller's Joy, C. Vitalba. The subject of this note is readily distinguished from the type by its larger and coarsely toothed leaflets. The leaves are pinnate, comprising five leaflets. The flowers are white, about an inch across, and, as can be readily seen in the illustration, they are terminal and axillary, forming a pleasing and attractive spray. The flowering season is the end of May and the first half of Tunc. In common with some other Clematises, the flowers are followed by attractive silvery seed-vessels. C. g. grandidentata is very vigorous in growth, quite as luxuriant as, if not more so than, C. montana, which has long been a favourite in gardens. Suit- able positions for planting are where it can ramble over and clothe arbours, summer-houses and out- buildings, or climb up and entangle at will trees and tall shrubs. Seeds, cuttings and layering form ready means of propagation. A. O. August i, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 393 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. HOW TO GROW CYCLAMEN. THE Cyclamen is a very useful plant for the amateur to grow. It does not require a high temperature ; it does not need a large, expensively built house ; and, when in bloom, the flowers remain fresh for a long time, and as bud follows bud in development, the flowering season is a long one. One year old plants are I CYCLAMEN SEEDLINGS AT VARIOUS STAGES OF GROWTH. SEE TEXT FOR DETAILS. valuable for flowering, and corms several years old are also valuable, so that it is not difficult to keep up a good succession when once a stock is raised. Sowing Seeds. — At the end of July and in August seeds may be sown in shallow pans filled with good loam and leaf-soil in equal proportions. Some coarse sand must be added and, if procurable, a small quantity of old mortar rubble. Drain the pan with clean crocks and place a few half-decayed leaves on them before putting in the compost, which should be gently finned and made smooth on the surface. Water it through a rosed watering- can, and sow the seeds an inch apart an hour afterwards. Cover them quite half an inch deep with the finer part of the compost, and place the pans in a cold frame or on a stage or shelf in a cool part of the greenhouse. The seeds do not germinate very quickly nor evenly, so that the cultivator must have patience. In the meantime he must keep the soil in the pans in an even state of moisture, and this can be ensured by immersing the pan in a vessel of water and holding it there until the water has come to the surface ; then gently lift out the pan. Owing to the irregularity of the germination of the seeds, the most forward seedlings will be ready for transplanting before the later ones, and they should be lifted from the pans carefully so as to avoid disturbing the latter. Transplanting the Seedlings. — They must l)e transferred to other pans and be allowed a distance of 2 inches from seedling to seedling. No. I shows the seedling breaking through the soil ; No. 2, the next stage of development ; and No. 3, the stage of growth when it is advisable to do the first transplanting. The First Potting. — When the young plants are as far advanced as shown at No. 4, they must be placed in small pots, small 6o's — those 3 inches across — being the most suitable size. The Young Plant is potted, as shown at No. 5, in good compost on a rougher one of similar quality ; No. 6, the pot being drained with a few crocks, well placed. At the second repotting the corms will be forming freely, and the dark line in No. 7 shows how deep the corm must be buried. The crowni of a Cyclamen corm increases rapidly when in a healthy condition, and if any of the central portion is buried by soil, owing to the cup-like formation, which holds moisture, some of the young growths would perish if constantly surrounded by too moist soil. Moisture resulting from watering is only harmless when the crown is above the soil-level. The Final Potting. — A seedling Cyclamen may be flowered in a 5-inch or a 6§-inch pot. The latter must be clean, and the compost, though rougher, similar in quality to that used at previous repottings. Old corms need only have one potting. If they are just started, surrounded by sifted leaf- soil, in beds or boxes, the one potting will suffice. Of course, as old corms vary in size, pots must be used accordingly. .\ corm measuring 3 inches across requires a pot 6J inches in diameter. As old corms do not possess as many roots as young plants that have been potted for some months, very careful watering is needed. The same care as is given to the seedlings will be correct for the newly potted old corms. No. 8 shows a plant finally potted ; and No, 9, young plants in a frame on a bed of ashes prior to taking them to a stage in the greenhouse. If the structure is a very dry one as regards atmospheric moisture, place slates on the stage and ashes on them for the accommodation of the Cyclamen. If the interior of the house is naturally moist, put the pots on the bare stage. There should be medium atmospheric moisture and free ventilation as required ; then very fine flowering plants will result, G. G, STARVING PLANTS IN SMALL POTS. The amateur cultivator is often prevented from repotting certain plants on a given date. Their condition a few weeks afterwards does not impress him very much, because they all look to be in the same state ; but if a few have been repotted or planted out, then the difference is marked indeed. 1 lately saw several hundred Cucumber plants that had been planted in borders a week previously. One, however, had been retained in the pot. Those planted out were 20 inches high and branching out freely. The pot plant from the same batch was about ten inches high and had very short side shoots. Retaining plants in their pots a week or a fortnight longer than they should be means a big loss of valuable time, as well as poorer specimens, because if the plants receive a check, they rarely afterwards recover sufficiently to make satisfactory plants. In another case some Perpetual-flowering Carnations were left in small pots. Others from the same batch were duly repotted. Result : The repotted plants at the end of a fortnight were as large again as the unpotted ones. The former will be strong flowering plants this autumn, while the others will not be as good next spring — loss of time and flowers too. Many greenhouses would be much brighter if the plants were more systematically repotted as required. Fewer plants would be needed to fill the stages, and the quality of the plants would be raised. Shamrock. HOW TO DRY HERBS. Herbs are of much value if properly treated, but they are rarely well cultivated and cared for in our gardens. In this brief note, however, I do not intend to deal with the culture, but with their treatment during the autumn and winter months, .^11 herbs that are cut and stored must be harvested while the plants are in full flower. It is at this stage that the plants are at their full strength. To retain that strength, careful harvesting is necessary. The tops must be cut off, but not immediately tied in bundles. Adequate drying is essential first, and this is secured by spreading out the herbs on a strip of netting in an airy shed. The air can pass freely through the stems and leaves, and if spread out thinly in this fashion, turning is not necessary. When the stems and leaves are sufficiently dried, tie them loosely in small bundles and suspend them from the roof or any convenient projection in an airy, cool shed. From the time that the tops are harvested till their use they must not be openly exposed to any strong sunshine. The Herb Plants. — Having secured the harvest of leaf and flower, the cultivator must turn Ills attention to the plants themselves. In the case of some of the old and weakly clumps, dig out the centres, removing roots, stems and soil bodily ; then with a good rich compost fill up the hole made. g B A CYCLAMEN PLANT IN ITS FLOWERING POT, AND YOUNG PLANTS STOOD ON ASHES IN A COOL FRAME. 394 THE GARDEN. [August i, IQ14. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. Late Vineries m which the Grapes are swelling freely shuuld be ventilated with great care, especially houses in which Lady Downe's Seedling is grown. When this Grape reaches the stoning stage, the ventilators ought to be left open durmg the night, or many of the best berries are almost sure to become scalded. Ventilate freely during the day, opening the ventilators in front^ of the structure as early as the weather will permit. Regulate and stop lateral growths before they become hard and overcrowded. This will do much to produce a free circulation of air among the fruit and foliage. Well-drained borders should receive a thorough soaking of liquid manure, but never of suiBcient strength to injure the young roots. Plants Under Glass. Begonia Gloire de Lorraine. — The earliest batch of these winter-flowering plants should now be ready for their final potting, and the soil for this purpose may be composed of turfy loam and leaf-soil in equal parts, with a good sprinkling of rough silver sand. Pot moderately firmly and shade from strong sun. Hanging baskets can also be made up now, and these will produce a very pleasing effect during the winter. Do not overcrowd the plants, and apply the syringe frequently to keep insect pests in check. Schizanthuses. — To produce good plants for spring flowering, the seeds should be sown about the middle of August. Sow thinly in pans of fine light soil and place in a cold pit until the young plants are well through the surface, after which the pans should be raised quite near the roof glass in order to keep the plants stocky. Prick off into boxes as soon as large enough, and again into 3-inch pots later in the season. In these they may remain the winter, and the final potting can take place early in spring. Tlie Flower Garden. Climbing Roses. — Many of these are in flower li'iw, and the worthless shoots from the base of tlie flower-trusses should be carefully removed, otherwise the flowers are not seen to advantage. Vuuug shoots from the base of the plants may he tied in, but nothing more than what is required to furnish the trellis next season. When the flowering season is over, as many old stems should be removed as possible, in order to make room for young growth which will produce next season's crop of flowers. Violets. — These plants have made good growth during the last few weeks. All side shoots should be removed and the Dutch hoe frequently used among them. Syringe freely and dust the plants with soot as the best means of keeping red spider in check. Violas. — As soon as these have finished flowering they should be cut hard back, in order to produce cuttings for next year's supply of plants. When about two inches long, these young shoots may be carefully removed from the old stools and planted in a cold frame or in some sheltered spot where protection can be afforded during very frosty weather. Summer Bedding Plants. — Many are at their best now, and will rpcpiire regulating to keep them within bounds. Pelargoniums may be the first to receive attention, and this should be done with a view to securing some cuttings for next season's display. If only one of the hardest shoots can be spared from each plant, this will be sufficient for a start. When the cuttings have been pre- pared, they should be inserted in small pots of sandy soil and placed on a bed of ashes in the *>pen until the autumn, when they may be re- moved to some slightly heated pit and within 18 inches of the roof glass, there to remain for the winter. If small pots are available, the best method is to place one cutting in each pot, where they may remain until the spring, when they should be potted into 5-inch pots. Heliotropes, Fuchsias, Coleuses, Iresines and Lobelias may be propagated at a later date and placed in a close, cool pit. Tlie Rock Garden. Hardy Cyclamen. — .Mo>t ..t these may be sown now in pans of sifted soil, placing them in a cool pit, w'here they should be protected from strong sun. When large enoiigh to handle, they may- be transplanted into boxes, allowing 2 inches between the plants. Most Cyclamen are well adapted for the rock garden', enjoying warm, sheltered nooks with partial shade and shelter from cutting wind. Good drainage is necessary, for, although they enjoy plenty of moisture at the roots, they will not thrive in stagnant places. Campanulas. — Many varieties of these are suit- alile for the rockery, and may be increased by division after flowering or by seeds, which can be sown in the spring. The alpine species have obvious advantages for all kinds of rock gardens, being, as a rule, easy to cultivate. The Hardy Fruit Garden. Strawberries. — No time should be lost in pre- paring the ground for new plantations of Straw- berries. That which has been occupied by early Peas or Potatoes will suit them well, but to obtain the best results the ground should be trenched to the depth of 2 feet and a good dressing of decayed manure given. When the ground has been allowed time to settle, the surface ought to be carefully broken up, in order to destroy the numerous small weeds which are certain to appear. W^hen the young plants are well rooted, they should be carefully planted and the soil about the roots made firm as planting proceeds. The space between the rows must depend to a certain extent on the varieties selected, but for such varieties as Royal Sovereigit 30 inches between the rows is not too much. Other good varieties should include Countess, Dr. Hogg, British Queen. Givon's Late Prolific, Laxton's Latest and Waterloo. The Kitchen Garden. Seal(ale. — This crop is growmg freely, and may receive immediate attention to the removal of side shoots, which, if left, will reduce the size of what should be a strong single crown. After this has been accomplished, the ground can be carefully hoed and a dusting of soot given. Lettuce. — Make frequent small sowings of Lettuce from now to the end of August, and transplant part of the seedlings for succession. Dickson's Monument, a new Cabbage Lettuce of recent introduction, is well worth a trial. JIammoth White Cos is also good for this sowing. Royal Gardens, Windsor. Jqhn Di'n'n'. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Celery Fly. — .At this season the Celery fly is often very troublesome, and means should be taken to prevent it spreading. For this purpose frequent dustings of soot applied on fine mornings are usually effective. This, however, must not be overdone, otherwise more harm than good wi'l result. . Where leaves are badly affected, they had better be collected and burnt. Onions. — The preparation of the ground for the sowing of autumn Onions should be attended to without delay. If the ground has been pre- viously manured for an earlier crop, all that will be required is to ha^'e the soil deeply dug and left in a rough state until the time for sowing, which should commence in about a fortnight. .Meantime collect some wood-ashes and soot, to be applied to the surface when breaking down the soil for the seed-bed. The Flower Garden. Herbaceous Borders. — By this time many of the earlier-flowering subjects will have passed out of bloom. The faded flowers and stalks should be removed ; indeed, the borders will require almost daily attention now. Later- flowering plants will require good supports against wind and heavy rainstorms, which sometimes play such havoc at this season. Dahlias. — These will now be growing freely, and as the shoots are so easily broken off by wind, they must be supported by looping them up to the central stake. This is a much safer plan than placing a string all round them. Should, however, extr.i large bloiims be wanted, the shoots must, of course, be thinned out and artificial feeding be given occasionally. Antirrhinums. — These showy bedding plants, which are now giving such a wealth of bloom, should have the old flowering shoots removed, when the laterals will thr.iw up and give a second crop of bloom till well on in the autumn. This cutting away of the faded flower-spikes is most important, as, if allowed to run to seed, the blooming period is verj- much curtailed. Planting Daffodils.— The bulbs that were lifted earlier in the season will now be quite ready for planting — that is, if the ground is available. There is nothing gained by keeping them longer in a dry state. Any ordinarv- garden soil will suit them, but on no account use fresh manure. Rock Garden. Helianthemums. — These are now giving a glorious display in the rockery, and some bold clumps placed at intervals on the higher parts of the rockery here are very effective indeed. 1 find they can be easily propagated by cuttings put in any time after this date. The earlier they are put in, the better plants will they make by the autumn. Insert the cuttings in a cold frame and shade from bright sunshine, and the earliest of them will be ready for planting out permanently in the autumn. Lithospermum prostratum. — This is another rock plant that can be propagated by cuttings at this season. I find, however, it does not root so readily as the Sun Rose ; but if ever a plant was worth tending carefully, then it is this Heavenly Blue, so aptly named. Insert the cuttings in pans, and place them in a cool house or frame where they will have a certain amount of shade for a time. Plants Under Glass. Hydrangea hortensis. — Cuttings of this useful greenhouse plant may still be rooted, but at this date it would be advisable to place these in a warm pit, so as to hasten growth before the winter. Those rooted earlier should be potted on and placed in frames, and, when sufficiently hardened, the lights may be entirely removed. Arum Lilies. — Where these have been ripened in pots, they should now be shaken (Uit and repotted. Place them in their flowering pots at once, using a fairly rich compost. Those that were planted out in trenches should not be potted up until they have made a fair amount of young growth. Calceolarias. — Prick out the seedlings when large enough to handle, for, as already pointed out, they must on no account be allowed to become drawn. After being pricked out, place them again in a cold frame and shade during bright sunshine. A sharp look-out must be kept for green fly, which usually makes its appear- ance during hot weather, for, if once allowed to get a hold, the young plants will be crippled at the very outset. Humea elegans. — The earliest-sown batch should now be ready for pricking out. Place the seedlings singly in small pots and stand them in a cool house where they will get abundance of light and air. Water very sparingly. Fruits Under Glass. Late Muscat Grapes. — Should the weather be inclined to be cold and damp, a little warmth ought to be mamtained in the pipes, with a free circulation of air day and night. Examine the berries from time to time to see they are not splitting, which is usually caused from too close an atmosphere, and, if this is observed, reduce the moisture in the house and ventilate freely. Draw aside some of the foliage to expose the bunches to the sun, as every means should be taken to have the Grapes well coloured by the middle of Sei>triubi r. Strawberries. — The earliest runners should now be potted into their fruiting pots and stood cm a hard surface where they will be exposed to the sun. Water carefully at first, and keep runners cut off as they appear. John Highcate. (Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.) Hof'ctouii Gardens, South Qiteens/erry, N.B. August i, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 395 EDITORIAL NOTICES. Emry department of liorticuttnre is represented in THE Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions relating to matters upon which they wish expert advice. The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes, but he wilt not be responsible for their sale return. All reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted contributions. j • j ,i i.^.^ As regards photographs, if payment he desired, the Jiditor asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly slated. It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo- grapher or owner of the copyriglit will be treated with. The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden will alone be recognised as acceptance. Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS. — The Editor endeavours 0 make The Garden helpful to all readers ivho desire assistance, no tnatter what the branch of gardening may be, and with that object makes a spe-cial feature of the "Answers to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the EDITOR of The Garden, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, I^ondon, W.C. The name and aMress of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering slwots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters on business should be sent to the Publisher. FLOWER GARDEN. SUNFLOWER TO NAME {R. ,S.).— The Sunflower referred to is probably Harpalium rigidum, which will grow practically anywhere. Epsom salts is not a cure for slugs. SWEET WILLIAMS DISEASED (W. E. M.).— The plants sent were too far gone to permit us to say anything about them with certainty. Perhaps you could send others less far advanced in disease than these. RUST ON VIOLAS (Fioia).— The fungus on the Viola is called Puccinia Algra. Plants once attacked arc generally useless, and are best rooted out. The neighbouring plants may be protected by spraying them with a rose red solution of potassium permanganate. SWEET PEAS FAILING {W. B. B.).— The material sent is insufficient to enable us to form any accurate idea of the disease from which the Sweet Peas are suffering. The best thing to do, we think, will be to water them with a solution of half an ounce of potassium sulphate to the gallon of water. A DISEASED PHLOX (Peach).— The Phlox plants are attacked by the stem eelworm. It is not easy, and probably not possible, to cure plants when once attacked by this pest, and we think you would be well advised to propagate only from quite healthy plants and destroy the others, treating the ground they occupy with sulphate of potash at the rate of^2oz, to the square yard. The Peach is attacked by silver-leaf, and we recommend you to root it out and plant another in its place. PiEONIES REVERTING (R. G.).—We do not recall any instance of Peeonies reverting to the typical species, though there is not the least reason why these, aa well as other plants, should not be given to '* sport," i.e., produce colour variations quite distinct from the normal, though instances of such are rare. What you refer to, if it has really happened, may be of this kind, or in the nature of deterioration, which we could only say with knowledge of the individual examples. If the whole of the flowers on any plant appear to have gone from pink to magenta, we should be inclined to regard it as due to lack of cultivation ; hence deterioration. If, on the other hand, a solitary flower only in a clump had changed, we should look upon it as a " sport," to prove which it would be necessary to mark the branch and later lift the clump, divide and single it out, and replant to prove. It would probably take three years to again reach a good flowering stage. We make no charge for answering queries relating to gardening affairs, and find pleasure in assisting our readers so far as we can. PROPAGATING GAILLARDIAS (C. W. 0. S.).— Apart from seeds, these plants may be increased by cuttings and root cuttings, the latter only practical during the winter months. Cuttings of young shoots may be inserted any time when procurable during the coming weeks, and you had better proceed by pruning back all flowering shoots to their bases and await the coming of fresh non-flowering shoots, detaching these when 3 inches long with a heel from the parent stem. A cold frame or under cover of a hand-light will be found the best place, using very sandy soil. Cuttings made in the ordinary way to a joint are also useful, and both methods are worth a trial. If you do not succeed with cuttings, write us in the early autumn, and we will endeavour to give an article on root propagation. TREES AND SHRUBS. RHODODENDRONS SUFFERING (Rydel—The Rhodo- dendrons are suffering from something wrong at the roots. Either dryness or x>erhaps'_presence of lime in the soil has affected them, and the damage the roots have suffered has caused a check toUhe Heaves. If the plants are well watered, they may grow out of it, provided no lime is present. Lime is fatal to these plants. WISTARIA LEAVES FOR INSPECTION (SybU Waller). — Earwigs may have been responsible for the condition of your Wistaria leaves, though we are disposed to think that caterpillars may have been the culprits. All that you can do is to spray the leaves with an arsenical wash, which will kill any insects as they feed. Such a wash may be prepared by mixing 2oz. of Paris green in 25 gallons of water and using it as a spray in fine weather. The chemical should be mixed in a little water before the bulk of the water is used. Early morning is the best time to apply such a spray. Wistarias give_quite good results on pergolas, and are often grown in that way. Your plants will probably grow quite vigorously presently. ROSE GARDEN. CATERPILLARS ON ROSES (Jeans). — The cater- pillar is that of the feathered thorn {Himera Pennaria) It is a " looper," and feeds on Oak, Plum and Rose. When it becomes a pest, it may, like most caterpillars, be checked by spraying with lead arsenate. CLIMBING ROSE NOT DOING WELL (Amateur).— We fear you have rather overwatered the plant, which has somewhat checked the root action. It is better to give such Roses one or two good soakings, then mulch, than apply water too frequently in driblets. Have the ground forked up ; then put in 2 inches or 3 inches of well-decayed manure and leave it alone. INJURY TO ROSES (Rev. R. F. C.).— We think the damage to the Roses is not due to the manure used, but rather to some insect, probably a species of bug, which has punctured the young growths. You will probably find an insect very similar in shape to the cuckoo-spit fly, which is so common, hut not living as that does in a sort of spittle. It is this insect that does the damage. CLIMBING ROSES FOR A RED WALL (H. F.).~ As your house wall is red, you cannot do better than plant Mme. Alfred Carrifire (white) and Rfive d'Or (creamy yellow). See that the soil is dug at least 2 feet deep and plenty of manure given to the lower soil. When planted, the Roses should be given some water, and when established they would need water and liquid manure twice a week from May to August, the liquid manure being given at each alternate watering. ROSES FOR PERGOLA (M. M. K. C.).—We think a beautiful effect would be obtained from your pergola 77 feet in length if you planted the follomng ramblers that would bloom somewhere about the same time. If you preferred, you could start with the colours in the order named, or blend them to your own taste. Cream and orange — Aviateur Blfiriot and Shower of Gold. White — White Dorothy and Lady Blanche. Blush — Lady Godlva, Tfibutante and Sweetheart. Pink — Chatillon Rambler. Rose — fllinnehaha. Red and crimson — Sodenia, Excelsa and Hiawatha. CLIMBING ROSES FOR SOUTH WALL (H. P. B., Bristol). — You can obtain plants in pots now and plant them out at once. Ask for extra strong plants in 8-incb pots. Those grafted this year that have been hardened off would be best. You should dig the border to a depth of 3 feet, and work plenty of manure into the lower soil, together with some basic slag, at the rate of 6oz. to a square yard. Bury this and the manure 2 feet below the surface. When planting Roses, turn them out of their pots carefully, and, before putting on the final soil, scatter a handful of bone-fiour around the plant. Water plentifully during the dry weather, and it will be as well to cover the surface soil with some very old manure, not strawy stuff ; or, failing this, some spent Hops from a brewery — about 2 inches or 3 inches thick of these. You can then water over them, and the Hops will preserve the moisture in the soil better. Half-a-dozen good kinds would be Climbing Lady Ashtown, Florence Haswell Veitch, R6ve d'Or, Mme. Alfred Carridre, William Allen Richardson and Climbing Richmond. GRAFTING CLEMATIS JACKMANNII AND OTHERS ON CLEMATIS VITALBA (Clematis). —It is not usual to graft the varieties of Clematis Jackmannii and other kinds upon vigorous plants of C. Vitalba, neither would such an operation be desirable, for the stock would be certain to send out strong shoots and destroy the weaker grafts. When grafting is resorted to, sections of roots of C. Vitalba 3 inches or 4 inches long are taken in the spring (February or March), and upon them soft shoots of the varieties, taken from plants which have been forced into growth, are grafted. Each piece of root with graft attached is then potted singly into a 2|-inch pot and stood in a moist, warm and close frame until both young roots and young shoots are formed. Cuttings may be rooted of the kinds you name if they are inserted at once in sandy soil in a close frame. THE GREENHOUSE. SCHIZANTHUS TO GROW (B. P. 0.).— Schlzanthus should be sown about August 15 in a cold frame in pots, but the seedlings should be potted (as soon as they are large enough to handle) into 3-irich pots singly and returned into the cold frame. As soon as the plants are about four Inches high, pinch their tops off ; this will induce the growth of many side branches, causing the plants to become bushy. A fortnight afterwards pot into 4-inch pots), and then place on a shelf in the coolest end of a greenhouse where it can have abundance of light and plenty of air when the weather is favourable. Stop the shoots again in spring about the end of March, and a fortnight afterwards shift into their flowering pots (6-inch). The chief secret of success in the growth of this plant is to keep it always in a cool, airy atmosphere. Heat and overcrowding are fatal to its success. PROPAGATING IMPATIENS OLIVIERI (A. E. P.).— The best time to propagate Impatiens Olivieri is during the spring months, but it is not at all a difficult subject to strike, and cuttings may be put in even now. The best cuttin;:s are formed of the points of young growing shoots, taken off at a length of about three inches. A few of the bottom leaves having been removed, the cuttings should be dibbled into well-drained pots well flUed with fine sandy soil. Then a good watering must be given through a fine rose in order to settle everything in its place. After that place the pots in a close propagating- case in a gentle heat, such as is used in the increase of Fuchsias, Heliotropes and other soft-wooded plants. Under these conditions the cuttings will soon root, when they must be gradually hardened off and potted singly into small pots SWEET-SCENTED FLOWERS IN A GREENHOUSE (H. D. M.). — There are a considerable number of sweet- scented flowers available for the decoration of the green- house or conservatory at different periods of the year. Prominent among them are bulbs of different kinds, of which the Freesias, Roman Hyacinths and Paper- White Narcissi should be potted as soon as they are obtainable, which will be, as a rule, during the first half of Autnist. The Roman Hyacinth is often referred to as needing to be forced, but bulbs potted in August in a greenhouse temperature \vill flower by Christmas. Later on come the other kinds of Hyacinths, different Polyanthus Narcissi and the Lily of the Valley. Lilies, too, are very desirable, the best for pot culture being Lilium longiflorum or its variety Harrisii, whose long, silvery white trumpets are very beautiful and sweetly scented. L. auratum has a more pronounced fragrance, which is admired by some. The perfume of L. speciosum, which is such a handsome Lily, is less marked than in those previously mentioned. Of these Lilies, the first to flower in the early summer is L, longiflorum, then L. auratum, and after- wards L. speciosum. The retarding of bulbs which now prevails has, however, so upset the seasons that flowers of these Lilies may be had all the year round. In any selection of sweet-scented bulbous plants Tuberoses must, of course, be included. Of shrubby plants that flower during the mnter and early spring may be specially mentioned tlie deliciously fragrant Daphne indica and its white variety alba ; Boronia megastigma, whose Violet-like perfume is of a very penetrating nature ; and Luculia gratissima, with large, Hydrangea-like heads of blossoms. This last, however, requires a good-sized structure for its development. Soon after these comes Cytisus racemosus, also known by the specific name of fragrans. Some Cyclamens are also sweetly scented, while the most pronounced of the Primulas in that respect is the Abyssinian P. verticillata and P. kewensis. The fiowers of Rhododendron Edgeworthii and some of its progeny, such as fragrantissimum, sesterianum and Lady Alice Fitzwilliam, are also very fragrant. These all bloom in the spring. Some of the Carnations, too, are very valuable, but can scarcely be expected to give of their best unless there is a house specially set apart for their accommodation. During the summer months you may have the Daturas or Brugmansias, with their long, trumpet-like, white blossoms ; Heliotrope or Clherry Pie, admired by everyone ; Magnoha fuscata, whose dull brownish flowers suggest Pineapple drops ; the different hybrid Nicotianas, especially those raised from N. affinis ; and the delicious Jasmine-like Bouvardia Humboldtii corymbiflora, Humea elegans, with its upright feathery panicles of reddish flowers, is very ornamental, but its attractive fragrance is chiefly with the flowers. Of climbers, two that can be specially recom- mended are Rhynchospermum jasminoides and Jasminum grandiflorum. Both flower during the summer, but the last named is later in blooming than the other. The large double German Wallflowers 'will, if sown in June and July, bloom quite early in the year. The flowers are deliciously fragrant, as also are those of the dull purplish-coloured Cheiranthus kewensis, which bloom throughout the winter. Stocks are so beautiful and fragrant as to merit a note to themselves. The tall- growing Beauty of Nice may be had in bloom in the winter as well as in the summer; while, by varying the time of sowing, the Ten- Week, East Lothian and intermediate varieties may be had in flower throughout the greater part of the year. Among the different subjects remarkable; not for the fragrance of their fiowers, but of the foliage, may be mentioned the Lemon Verbena (Aloysia citri- odora), a universal favourite, which is fairly hardy in many parts of the country; and the Myrtle, of which much the same may belaid, and also a valuable evergreen for grow- ing in large pots or tubs. Scented-leaved Pelargoniums, too, which are certainly more popular now than they were a few years ago, are very dissimilar from e^ch other, not only in general appearance, but also in their perfume, for the pronounced scents of Lemon and Peppermint 396 THE GARDEN. [August i. iqi4. are present amonR them, as well as many of their own. The Apple-scented Sage (Sahia rufilans) is another that can be recommended for its fragrance, while the scarlet blossoms are also very shon?- Lastly, there are the different forms of Boronia, a class of South African Heath- like shrubs with very aromatic foliage, and the citron- scented member of tlie Bine Gum family. Eucalyptus citriodora. QUESTIONS ON VARIOUS PLANTS (Harmgaie).— 1 Bei'onia Gloire de Lorraine may be flowered the second year, but it is more satisfactory when grown on annually from cuttings. Old plants that it is intended to keep should be cut partially back after flowering, and then, as soon as young shoots are pushed forth, be repotted in a mixture of loam, peat and sand. If your plant has not been touched in any way, it will now be too late to prune it, but it may bo repotted, using a larger pot if necessary. 2. The cause of the leaves of your \sclepias turning yellow is no doubt owing to the plants being more or less starved. As they have been nowenng since the snrin" the pots will now doubtless be lull 01 riots, in wS'-case the plants will be greatly benefited bv an occasional dose of some stimulant or by being shifted into larger pots. 3. Bouvardias;^ of all kinds are shrubs, and therefore perennials. 4. The Watsonias are a genus of South African bulbous plants nearly related to the Gladiolus. They should now be flom'ring, or nearly approaching that stage. At this time they will need 'plenty of water, but in the winter, when dormant, must be kept quite dry. 5. There are several possible reasons tor your Ferns turning yellow as described, but without inspection one cannot feel very safe in gmng an answer. In the first place— and that a very probable cause— the atmosphere of the hou.se may be too dry, as, even if the house is shaded by Summer Cloud, this is very likely to happen in hot weather. The heat and dryness of the atmosphere will encourage the increase of such insect pests as red spider and tlirips, which will soon disfigure the fronds. You say the plants are not over- watered, but there is jnst the possibility that they have been kept too dry at the roots. A golden rule to observe in the successful culture of Ferns is that they enjoy a considerable amount of humidity in the atmosphere. 6 If the Aubrictias are trimmed over with a sharp pair of scissors, they will form dwarf plants for another season. Should it be desired to increase them, they can as^ soon as they recover from the cutting ox'er, be divided and planted out in a prepared bed. If it is desired to keep Violas over the second ye-.r, they must be tninmed when they besrin to look shabby, not after the middle of \ugust. This will lead to the production of--a con- siderable number of young shoots, some of wnieh may, if required, be taken off as cuttings and inserted in a shady border. Some of the Antirrhinums and Sweet Williams mil flower after the second summer, but they cannot be depended upon like young plants. FRUIT GARDEN. ABOUT RASPBERRY CANES U)erinna). ^\'^■ do not find any insect on tlir Kaspberry eaiies s.-ut, and think they have possibly brrii dama-ed by forking among tliem too deeply. AMERICAN GOOSEBERRY MILDEW (Mrs. McD.).— The Gooseberries are badly attacked by the Amcriean Gooseberry mildew. You must report it o the Board of Agriculture. Spraying is, we fear, of little use. IJut the bushes should have all the young growths (on which the fungus is likely to be present) removed m the early autumn. INJURY TO PEAR AND PEACH TREES (H H. C.).-- The Pear fruits appear to have been injured by cold. Probably a frosty night occurred either when the trees were in flower or soon afterwards. The leaves of the Peach are injured by Peach leaf-cur. The curl is due to the presence of a fungus (Exoasctis deformans). Collect and burn all affected leaves to keep the disease from snreadin". It is as well to remove the ends of the affected shoots bllow the highest good leaf, as tlie fungus grows into the leaf-buds near where it is present, and rests there '" m^ealy' bug, mildew and spider on vines (Troubled).— Om of these is bad enough at a time, but the three together is no joke. For mildew and spider, the test thing you can do is to dredge your Vines heavily with flowers of sulphur, leaving it on for thirty-six hours. Snrav the vines over lightly in the evening before applying the sulphur, and keep the vinery extra warm while the sulnhur is on. Use rain-water for spraying, and also for syringing off the sulphur at the end of the thirty-six hours As regards mealy bug, your best chance^of eradi- cating it at this time of the year is to use Bunyard s Blight Cure No. 1. from Messrs. George Bunyard and Co Royal Nurseries, Maidstone. Apply with the brush. With perseverance you may keep it down in th'f way. HOW TO GROW MELONS IN A FRAME {E. C.).— Make up a hot -bed 1.5 inehcs all round larger than the^ frame and 2i feet deep. Tread it down firmly Stand your frame on it as soon as it is made, keeping the light off for a week or ten days afterwards to let the rank steam escape out of the manure. At the end of this time place in the centre of the frame some sods of turfy loam, grass side downward, covering 2 square feet of the bed. On the top of this place a bushel of loamy sml, broken up into pieces the size of a hen's egg. Use the small with it as well Make this into a mound or cone on the top of llie sods spoken of above, and tread firmly. The top of this mound of soil should be a foot froni the glass Drive a stick into this to test the heat of the bed, and let it remain in for two days. Take it out then and feel with the until the heat has subsided. If, on the other hand, the stick is only moderately warm, you may plant at once. Place two plants in the middle of the mounds about four inches apart. As soon as the plants have made four leaves pinch the heart out of each plant. Y'ou mil find they will then form side shoots. Select two of the strongest of these and pinch the others off, and let them grow^vithout stopping until they arc each 2 feet long, trailing them on the ground (or the face of the border). THE APPLE SAWFLY (St. C.).— The Apples are attacked by the Apple sawflv. The fruits attacked will soon fall, and all should be burned as quickly as possible, so as to reduce the risk of the sawfly spreading in future years. Spraying of any kind is not a certain cure for the pest, for the fly lays its eggs either in the bud or in the open flower, generally the latter. GRAPES BADLY MILDEWED (B. M. H.).— The only effective way of killing mildew on Vines when once it has obtained a stronghold, as it seems to have done in vour case, is to spray the Vines thoroughly mth rain- water, and then to dredge every part with flowers of sulphur. Leave it on for three days and then blow off with a powerful pair of bellows. Late in the afternoon is a good time to apply the sulphur. PLUM TREES NOT FRUITING (ieicesfer).— Seeing that your Plum trees are still making only wood growth, in spite'of the root pruning to which you say they have been subjected, we can only eonclude that your soil must be over-rich, and also deficient in lime. Stone fruit will not succeed in limeless soil. Boot prune again, but not too severely as soon as the leaves have fallen, and add half a bushel of lime to the soil of each tree, well mixing it with the soil before applying. INJURY TO APPLE TREE (Brum).— The Apple^ is attacked not bv a fungus or a mildew, but by an aphis the stem aphis 'of the Apple. A. Fitchii. We recommend a thorough spraying with Quassia and soft soap, or with a nicotine compound. A suitable Quassia and soft soap wash may be made by simmering or gently boiling lib. of Quassia chips in water for a couple of hours. Dissolve half a pound of soft soap in warm water and stir in the strainerl-off Quassia extract ; then add sufficient water to make up ten gallons. SHOT-HOLE FUNGUS IN PEACH TREE U- J- B.).-- Your Peach is attacked, apparently, by one of the shot-hole fun-'i but as the fungus is not yet fruiting it is impossible to say which one. Wc fear all the leaves showing this spotting will drop in any ease, and recommend you to spray the tree with ammoniaeal copper carbonate, made by mixing 5oz. carbonate of copper into a paste with water, addiu" three pints of strong ammonia, and diluting the deep blue solution so obtained with water to make torty-flve gallons. Make the solution in a wooden vessel. GRAPES SCALDED (W. B. i.).— The sample of Grapes sent are badly " scalded." This is a term applied to Graiies which" appear as if they have been scalded or parboiled Scalding is caused through late or imperfect ventilation on bright sunny mornings while the Vines, and even the berries, are saturated with moisture. To stop any further mischief, have a little heat in the hot -water pipes and ventilate more freely, leaving a little top and bottom air on all night while the weather is warm, but top air only at night when the weather is cold. -The Peach was : Early. M. I' NAMES OF FRUIT.— Mrs. Maxacll.- rather damaged, but we think it is Hale": — Black Muscat Grape. NAMES OF PLANTS.— £. B— Stachys lanata. jl/„rt.— Ligustrum lucidum. E. E. S., Stol-e Poifes.— Clematis recta. A. B. — Flowers dropped and shrivelled. but jirobably Begonia Corbeille de Feu. Fulboume. — 1, Spanish Broom (Spartium junccum); 2, Veronica incana ; 3, JLthionema pulchellum ; 4. Aspcrula tinctoria ; 6, Arenaria montana. /. M.—l. Linaria purpurea: 2, Geranium Phsum flore pleno (Double Dusky Crane's-bill) F Green, Port Eliz'ibelh.—A verv fine form of Nepbro- lepis cordifolia. S. B. B.— Pontederia crassipes (Water Hvacinth). Aljred Allhusen. — Sanibncus racemosus. ^— n. ii.H.— Echium vulgarc (Bul'Iobs). P.E. Wnlsh. — 1 Paulownia imperialis; 2, Olearia Haastii: 3. Choisya ternata. TF. IF. B.— Pyrus Aria (White Beam) --— A Smith.— UnxiSQB. borealis. Seeker.— \, Galega offici- nalis and the variety alba; 2, Melissa officinalis (Balm); 3, Euphorbia Lathyris (Caper Spurge). M. P — The plant is Helxinc Solieroli. KITCHEN GARDEN. cabbage ROOT MAGGOT (Fo/'/i).- The stocks appear to have been attacked by the Cabbage root maggot. This cannot be cured, but seedlings may be protected to some extent by putting sand moistened with paraffin about the bases of their stems early in their growtb, MISCELLANEOUS. FUNGUS ON AZALEA (J. McE.).— Tlie fungus is Exobasidium japonieuni. It has only recently appeared in this country, but is becoming quite common. The galls it produces should be picked off and burned. INSECT PESTS (H. S.).— Dip the Begonias in the soft soaii and siil|ilnir wash we have frequently recommended for tlie jilaiits. The Turnips arc badly attacked by the diamond back moth larva;, and we recommend you to dust them immediately with soot and lime or spray them with arsenate of lead. WORM TO NAME (Currad'o).- The creature sent is not an insect, but a worm which lives inside insects, such as ground beetles and the like. It leaves the bodies of these insects at a certain stage of its career, and lives for a time in the open air, but is quite harmless to plants and man. It is known as Gordius. WEED SPREADING IN WOODS (Mrs. P.).— The speci- men scut for identifleation is the Gout-weed (jEgopodium Poila'Taria). It is one of the most difiicult weeds to eradicate once it has been allowed to become well estab- lished The best method to adopt is to fork out the weed as much as possible ; tlien, as young shoots appear above ground keep them hoed down before the leaves have a chance to develop. By this means the weed may be gradually destroyed. EXAMINATIONS IN HORTICULTURE (R. Ji.).— The principal examinations in horticulture are those instituted by the Jioyal Horticultural Society. Tlu^ are those for the National Diploma in Horticulture, the General Examinations for all classes of gardeners, the Parks' Employes Examination for those employed in public parks, &c., and the Teachers' Examination for teachers in schools. Full particulars of these may be TnTnrtwo davs Take it out then and feel witii the i obtained on application to the Secretary, Eoyal Horti- hand U it S hot you must not plant the Melons I cultural Society, Vincent Square, London, S.W. SOCI ETI ES. NATIONAL ROSE SOCIETY. The provincial show of this society was held in the Sydney Gardens, Bath, on the 16th ult. The recent rainfall had certainly improved the quality of many Roses exhibited, and the' show, as a whole, was a most excellent one for so tryiu" a season. There was a good attendance of visitors throughout the day. The large marquee was delightfully cool, owing to its erection in a particularly favourable position. Nurserymen. The Jubilee Trophy and gold medal, offered for thirty- six blooms, distinct varieties, of exhibition Roses, were secured bv Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Sons, Ledbury, with a wc'll-flnisbed stand, including excellent blooms of Mme Maurice de Luze, Her Majesty, Lohengrin, Frau Karl Druschki, Mrs. A. E. Coxhead, Helen Keller, Mildred Grant, Claudius, H. V. Machin and Tom Wood. The second place was secured by iMessrs. Frank Cant and Co., f'olehcstcr, who also staged some- very good flowers, the finest blooms being Mrs. Joseph H. Welch, Maman Cochet Prince .\rthur. Mrs. Foley Hobbs and Mme. Jules Gravereaux. Messrs. Hugh Dickson of Belfast were placed third. The Mavor's Cup, offered for seventy-two blooms, distinct was also carried off by Messrs. Dickson, Ledbury, with an equally effective stand of well-developed blooms. They also led the way with twenty-four varieties, distinct, including Lady Barbara, iMrs. David McKee, Countess of Derby, Duchess of Sutherland, Lady Ashtown, Bessie Brown and JIabel Drew. Mr Harry Drew. Longwortb, Berks, obtained the bi.iirvt award for thirty-six blooms, distinct, the best flo'xver- )"iiig Mme. Eiig6ne Verdier, Avoca, Ulnch Bruuiier Suzanne M. Bodoeanachi, Frau Karl Druschki, Earl of ' Gosford. Mildred Grant, Florence Pemberton, Hugh Dickson, George Dickson and Dean Hole. Mr. George Prince, Oxford, was second. Mr. Drew again scored for sixteen distinct varieties, three blooms of each. ,, t i. For twenty-four blooms, distinct varieties, Jlr. John Mattock, Headington. Oxford, was to the fore, his blooms of Ethel Malcolm, Britisli IJueeii, Edward Mawley and Earl of Warwick being excellent in every respect. Mr. Charles Turner, Slough, was a good second, showing George Dickson. Frau Karl Druschki, Mrs. Foley Hobbs and Helen Keller in good form and colour Ml John Mattock was again first for eight distinct varieties, three blooms of each ; second, Mr. Ernest Hicks Wallingford; third, Jlr. C. Green, Hitchin. Mr Henry Drew secured first plaie for eighteen blooms, among wiiich the following wrrc in good form : Mme. Jules Gravereaux, Molh' hhanuan Crawford. Mme. Leon Constantin, Comtesse de Nadaillae and Alexander Hill Gray. Mr. George Prince, Oxford, followed closely witli a well-flnishcd stand. Mr John Mattock led the way with eighteen blooms, distinct, Mr. Ernest Hicks being second. Open Classes. Mr George Prince secured first place for twelve blooms of new Roses, distinct, including Mabel Drew, Mrs. J. Wiieh Wi/abeth, iMrs. W. K. Rowe and Mrs. Cornwallis We^t ' M.>srs. Hugh Dickson, Limited, Belfast, coming seeoii'd, and Messrs. Alex. Dickson, Ledbury, third. For twelve blooms of any new Rose, Mr. Elisha J. Hicks was a good first with Mrs. G. Norwood, wiiich he staged in splendid condition, Messrs. Alex. Dickson conilUL' second with George Dickson, and Mr. J. Mattock third wltli British Queen. i , ,, tt For twelve blooms of any Hybrid Perpetual, Mr M, Drew and Messrs. Alex. Dickson were awarded equal flrsst. Mr. Charles Turner coming third. ,, , . , For twelve blooms of any Rose other than Hybrid Perpetual, Tea or Noisette, Messrs. A, Dickson secured first place, Mr. C. H. Green second, and Mr. J. Mnltoek third. . ,, ^ ,i TT For twelve blooms of any Tea or Noisette Rose, Mr. H. Drew secured first, Mr. J. Mattock second, and Jlr. (i. Prince third. , , , « , „• For twelve distinct varieties, three blooms of each, lea and Noisette Roses, Mr. George Prince secured first prize, and Mr. H. Drew second. Perpetcvl-Flowerino Decorative Roses, For five baskets of cut Roses in distinct varieties Mr. George Prince was awarded first prize, Mr. H. Driw coming second, and Mr. J. Mattock third. ^iw^®- GARDEN. No. 2229.— Vol. LXXVIII, August 8, 1914. NOTES OF THE WEEK. 1863. Generous Gift to Reigate. — It is with pleasure I that we learn that Sir Jeremiah Colman, Bart., [so well known in horticultural circles, has purchased [Reigate Hill from Lord Monson and presented lit to Reigate, thus ensuring it being an open space [for ever. Reigate Hill is one of the most charming spots in Surrey, overlooking a beautiful and Itypical stretch of English landscape. The gift " is to commemorate the jubilee of the Reigate Corporation, which was inaugurated in A Little-Known Rock Garden Plant. In Bellium bellidioides, a miniature plant known by the name of the False Daisy, we have one of the most charming sub- jects for the rockery, and yet it is a plant very seldom met with. The small rosettes of dark green spathulate leaves form quite a dense mass, above which rise the small, fairy-like Daisies in great profusion, and about two inches high, the whole summer through. It was intro- duced in 1796 from the Mediterranean region, and requires an open, sunny position in well-drained, stony soil, where the little stolons, about an inch long, which it continues to send out, can ramble freely and root, when it will soon make an attractive little colony. It is readily raised from seed or by division. Pink Mallows in the Garden. — One of the' most attractive hardy annuals in the garden just now is the pink Mallow, or Lavatera rosea splendens. We have it growing in association with the white Phlox Mrs. E. H. Jenkins, and the com- bination is as perfect a colour harmony as one could wish. Last year we remem- ber seeing it growing between white Japanese Anemones, when the effect also was very pleasing. This pink Mallow is an annual to make a note of now, so that it may be included in the next seed order for sowing next spring. The seeds can be sown outdoors, but the seedlings need plenty of room and fairly good soil. The Night-scented Stock. — During the past few weeks we have derived so much pleasure from this little-known annual that we can- not refrain from writing about it. During the day- time the plant has nothing to commend it, but early in the evening the pale lilac flowers unfold and quickly satmrate the air with their delightful fragrance. We have it growing under the windows, where it is about a foot high, and there are few greater joys in the garden than to inhale its frag- rance. The seeds can be sown outdoors in spring, and the seedlings do not need transplanting. It is an annual that ought to be in every garden where fragrance is appreciated. Sowing Seeds of Alpines. — Many seeds of these interesting plants, such as Primulas, Dianthi, Lychnis, Arenaria and a host of others, should be sown as soon as ripe. Much better results are usually obtained than if the seeds are left till the spring, as they germinate more quickly and evenly. This also applies to many of the monocotyledons, such as Lilies, Eremuri, Irises and similar plants. THE FALSE DAISY, BELLIUM BELLIDIOIDES. A FREE-FLOWERING PLANT IN THE ROCK DURING SUMMER AND EARLY AUTUMN. A Beautiful Hybrid St. John's Wort.— We were much charmed with a group of Hypericum moseri- anum the other day. At this season, when few shrubs are flowering and the leaves have not their autumn tints, a bright flower such as this is appreciated. If used as a groundwork for small deciduous, early flowering shrubs, such as Hamamelis, Daphnes or similar kinds, the bed can be made bright for almost the whole year. This beautiful St . John's Wort is the result of crossing Hypericum patulum and H. caly- cinum. The flowers are large, golden, almost butter yellow, and appear in profusion for many weeks. Important Notice to Our Readers. — A corre- spondence has been taking place in the columns of the Advertiser's Weekly and the Nurseryman and Seedsman regarding the bona ffles of certain of the advertisements which are published in some of the gardening papers. So far as The Garden is concerned, the Proprietors have fi}r some years made it their practice to dechne to insert any advertisement as to which there could be the shghtest ground for suspicion. The result has been that the readers of The Garden have learned to know that the appearance of an advertisement in The Garden may be regarded as a trade mark of respectability and integrity. We have never yet gone so far as to guarantee the goods supplied by our advertisers, because with the precautions that are taken the necessity has not arisen. A Good Crimson Rose.- One of the best crimson Roses for the garden, and one that never fails to elicit the admira- tion of visitors, is Chateau de Clos Vougeot. Unfortunately, its name is unwieldy for English tongues, but that does not detract from the merits of the flower. It is a Hybrid Tea of moderately vigorous constitution, and the large flowers are dark velvety crimson, shaded with scarlet. They are also fragrant and last longer on the bush than those of any other Rose we know, while the colour is not affected by the strongest sunshine. The only drawback to this beautiful dark Rose is its ungainly habit, the shoots growing at very awkward angles. This can, howeverj be largely remedied when pruning by cutting to buds pointing upwards. The Lowberry as a Preserve. — During the last few days we have been testing the fruits of the Lowberry as a pre- serve, and have been delighted with the excellent jam they make. This has all the good features of Blackberry jam, minus hard cores and most of the seeds. Of course, many seeds are there, but not in any- thing like the quantities that we find in Black- berry jam. The flavour of the two is practically identical. Though not fruiting so freely as the Loganberry, the Lowberry is well worth a plac^: in those gardens where it can be given plenty of room, preferably rambling over some rough trellis. The fruits are jet black, very juicy and sweet It needs precisely the same treatment as the Loganberry. THIS IS GARDEN 398 THE GARDEN. [August 8, 1914. CORRESPONDENCE. {Tlie Editor is not responsible for Ike opinions expressed by correspondents.) Sweet-Scented Rosaries. — In answer to your correspondent's enquiry for a recipe for making beads from Rose petals, she will find a full description of the method in a small sixpenny book called " Perfumes and Cosmetics," by Thomas Bales, F.G.S., and Charles Godfrey Leland. The publishers are Messrs. Dawbam and Ward, Limited, 6, Farringdon Avenue, London, E.G. — R. de Free. Ivy Growing Without Roots. — In a recent issue a reader asks, " Has anyone ever seen Ivy growing on a building without any root connec- tion ? " '"Yes, I have. In the inner courts of Muckross Abbey — Lord Ardilaun's demesne near Killamej' — the Ivy is growing freely on the ruined wall, although the main stem has been cut away tion as to any garden competitions or flower shows known to your readers in the County of London, and to receive suggestions as to any centres likely to promote in working-class dis- tricts the cultivation of gardens. — Arthur R. Athey, 197, Walworth Road, S.E. The Judging of Roses. — I was always under the impression that the public were not admitted to flower shows while the judging is going on ; but it appears that this is not always followed, even in important exhibitions. The reason I form this opinion is that your correspondent Edwin Molyneux, in The Garden for August i. writing on " The Most Fragrant Rose," says, concerning the recent award for the " Clay " Cup, that he watched the judges closely all the time they were engaged in adjudicating upon this particular item. Now, if the rules were strictly carried out, how would it be possible to watch every action of the judges unless your correspondent was one of them, which he implies, LEAVES OF ROSE AIMEE VIBERT, SHOWING THE WORK OF THE LEAF-CUTTING BEE. 2 feet from the soU, and you can pull it away from the wall at the base. Yet the foliage is bright and flourishing. When I saw it years ago it was some 30 feet high and 12 feet to 20 feet broad, in a mass, and what a lovely ride we had through the estate ! — George Bunvard, Maidstone. London Gardens Guild. — May I invoke the help of your readers in my endeavour to extend the gardening movement among the working- classes of London ? Through the kindly initiative of Mr. Noel Buxton, M.P., the Browning Settle- ment has established the London Gardens Guild, the aim of which is " To promote the planting and tending of gardens in the working-class districts of London ; to encourage existing garden competitions and flower shows ; to develop such contests where there are none ; to aim at every available patch of ground attached to private dwelling place or place of business being planted with trees, shrubs or flowering plants," The motto of the Guild is : " London a Garden City ! Why not ? " I should be very glad to receive informa- although he does not actually say, he was not ? — An Outsider. The Leaf-Cutting Bee and Roses. — I was much interested in the note 0:1 pige 387 of last week's issue, where "Heather Bell" describes his experience with the leaf-cutting bee and Pelar- goniums. I am sending a photograph of a spray of Rose leaves taken from the climber Aimee Vibert, showing the damage done to the foliage by the leaf-cutting bee. This insect appears to attack some Roses more than others, Frau Karl Druschki and other rampant growers seeming first favourites. The bee itself is one of the solitary kind, and is about the same length as the ordinary hive bee, only a little stouter. Her black body is covered with short, brown hairs. Each leaf she attacks is rapidly cut, and the circular piece, held between fore-feet and jaws, is carried to her underground nest. The pieces so gathered are made into tiny thimbles or cells, and in each she places one egg, surrounding it with bee bread. In this leafy home the tiny grub lives and feeds until it emerges from the chrysalis as a perfect insect. — E. E. Carter, Romford. Maries' Balloon-Flower in the Moraine.— Experiments in the cultivation of certain plants in the moraine are extremely interesting, ' and it is amazing to see how many subjects which will grow in a Tjorder or on ordinary rockwork will flourish much better in the moraine. A trial of Platycodon Mariesii in a whinstone moraine with a subsoU of sandy loam is proving quite a gain, as the plant is not only growing well, but is flowering exceptionally freely. This Platycodon can, of course, be grown in a border, but there are some who find it short-lived in this position. One cannot tell positively from the results of a short trial, but there is every appearance that P. Mariesii will do better in the moraine than in a border here. The gravel keeps the roots cool underneath, and also absorbs and gives off gradually the heat from the sun for the benefit of the foUage and flowers. It is easy to criticise moraine planting, but the results are such as to convince the most sceptical that much advantage will be derived from its practice with many good plants. — S. Arnott, Dumfries. JULY, 3 A.M. " Flowers only flourisli rishtly in the garden of some- one who loves them." — Ruskin. The dew is yet upon the Rose — Wait ! presently the breeze will shake The blossom open to the mom — And passing silently will close The night flower, watching by the lake, .\nd turn the Lilies towards the dawn. Carnations then, and Roses sweet. White Jessamine upon the wall, Will breathe their tender fragrance out ; And Sweet Peas stretch their wings to meet The pearly dewdrops, as they fall. And hidden in these sleeping bowers I feel ashamed to be awake — With dreaming foliage all about. And noise of sticky buds that break. The very birds are silent yet — God is alone amongst his flowers : The paling stars, in trembling state. About the throbbing skies are set To bid the eager dawn await. M. C. S. Hardiness of Roscoea cautlioides. — This Roscoea, which we owe to the enterprise of Messrs. Bees, Limited, is a charming and distinct species, which some have been chary of purchasing until its hardiness was more fully proved or until it became cheaper. I have been following its culti- vation with considerable interest, as it is always desirable to know the ways of a new plant as far as possible, so that one may. be successful in its cultivation. So far as I can learn, it is probably hardy in at least the less inclement districts of the three kingdoms, and in none of the places in which I have seen it has it failed. In two good gardens in Wigtownshire it has stood the past winter, and is thriving well and has flowered satisfactorily. One plant was in the fascinating garden of Sir Herbert Maxwell at Monreith, where it is in the border. Another was in the rock garden in that delightful Paradise of Logan, in the same county, the home of Mr. Kenneth M'Douall. It was in bloom there at the end of June. This dis- tinct pale yellow Roscoea is worth some considera- tion from purchasers of new plants. — D. A. Adgust 8, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 399 Shrubs Flowering and Fruiting.— The present is a quite out-of-ttie-ordinary season for the flowering and fruiting of shrubs. It is the first time Ceesalpinia japonica has flowered here, and plants which have produced blooms sparsely in the past, e.g., Banksia Roses and Azara micro- phylla, have been very profuse of bloom. It is the first time I have seen Choisya temata fruiting, and that on one plant only ; also the first time in my experience of Chimonanthus fragrans fruiting, though this I saw in a Southern garden, and perhaps it is not uncommon. One specimen of Azara here was profusely fruited, but recently the fruits have all disappeared. The garden fruits are extra- ordinary, Gooseberries and Currants being bent to the ground with the crops, and Apricots, Peaches, Plums and Apples all requiring an amount of thin- ning far beyond anything I have seen for years. Strawberries are the one sparse crop, and it would seem their failure is general.- — R. P. B., Prestmikirk. Rose Zepliyrine Drouhin. — In The Garden of July 25, page 375, " W. B. G." expresses a desire for information respecting this Rose, and from my experience I am convinced that more than your correspondent require information regarding it. My attention had not been called to this Rose till last summer, when a lady member of the family here returned from a visit to some English friends, where she had seen a bloom of it in a gentleman's button-hole, and was high in its praise, adding that " we must have it." I accordingly purchased four plants of it from a well-known English Rose-grower, and planted them in good positions. Meanwhile another plant of the same variety was received from a different source. As blooms developed on my quartet I was rather disappointed to find them small in size, rather globular in form, of a rather washed- out pink shade, and very ephemeral. I was about to express my disappointment to the young lady when she declared that the firm had not supplied the proper article, and backed up her assertion by reference to a vase filled with blooms of what she declared to be the true Zephyrine Drouhin, beautiful indeed, and far removed from those home on the plants of my purchase. This led me to examine the single specimen received from another source, which had been overlooked, and this proved the correctness of the young lady's contention. But this is not all. I now looked up the list of the grower from whom I had purchased the quartet, and found Zephyrine Drouhin described as a " shell pink." I next looked up the list of a noted Continental Rose- grower, and found it there described as a " rosy crimson," and you now. Sir, describe it as " carmine pink." I, too, should be glad for information respecting the colour of Zephyrine Drouhin. The two so-called Zephyrine Drouhins we have here, while differing in foliage and flower, are both thomless. — Charles Comfort, Midlothian. [The colour of this Rose is described by the National Rose Society as bright carmine pink, and this, we think, is the best description that can be given. The stems are mostly green and thomless, and the blooms very fragrant. — Ed.] FORTHCOMING EVENTS. August 10. — United Horticultural Benefit and Provident Society's Committee Meeting. August II. — Royal Horticultural Society's and National Gladiolus Society's Combined Show at Vincent Square, Westminster. August ig.^-Plower Show ^t Taunton Dene. ROSE-GROWING IN GARDENS. TOWN THE advancing season has given us further opportunities of estimating the merits of our new Roses, as well as of confirming opinions already formed of older acquaintances. One of the fascinations of Rose-growing lies in adding to our collections each year some varieties of which we have had no previous experience, and there is no reason why the town gardener should deny himself this small luxury, however limited his domain, though experience will soon have taught him that he may not hope to succeed with all he plants. But there are always a certain number of trees which should be discarded at the end of each season, and even if the grower finds he has added to their numbers, it is not all wasted effort, for he has added to the sum of his knowledge, and occasionally he will chance upon a discovery that will reward him for his pains. Last autumn I obtained a few plants of a charming little Rose, Mevrou Dora von Tets, choosing it merely from a catalogue description, and have been delighted with the result. Rather resembling Richmond, it is freer in growth, and even more profuse in blooming. In colour it is rather darker, being a full rich crimson, which lasts well even in bright sunshine. It is a thin Rose, and will hardly give a flower of exhibition size ; but each one is oi beautiful shape, and it makes an ideal bedding Rose. It is fragrant, and does not seem given to mildew, so that none need avoid it. The National Rose Society's official catalogue makes no mention of this Rose, and but few nurserymen in this country appear to have it in their lists ; but in conversation with one the other day I learned that he had been much impressed by it and had budded a large quantity in anticipation of a big demand when its merits are better known. Of George Dickson I write more reluctantly and with some diffidence, but must confess to some disappointment in finding it so easy a mark for mildew, and though there can be no question of its vigour, I suspect it a little of being inclined to the production of wood at the expense of flower. A Rose that has proved its suitability for town gardens is Mrs. Charles Curtis Harrison, a bedding variety of carmine and crimson pink colouring, which does not fade into an ugly colour as many of similar shades do. This is one of the newer varieties which have been rather overlooked, probably because of the preponderance of pinks ; but it is very distinct, and is a beautiful and shapely Rose, with stiff and well-formed petals, aUke useful for garden or exhibition. The free use of the hoe upon Rose-beds is to be commended at all times, but great care should be exercised in doing the work. Many roots are near the surface, and to break and injure these will cause a set-back to the plants. The hoe used should always be a narrow one, and only the top inch or 2 inches of soil ought to be disturbed. By the way, a most useful instrument can be made by fastening a light three-pronged garden hand- fork upon a broom handle, and with this the surface of the Rose-beds can be pricked over with a minimum of effort. P. L. Goddard. HARDY HIMALAYAN PRIMULAS. THE hardy species of Primula, so far as at present known, include about seventy varieties. A considerable number of these have been in cultiva- tion for a good many years, and there can be little doubt that a large pro- portion of those which are not yet to be seen outside botanic gardens, or a few other collections of more than usual size, will be found hardy enough to stand the trials of our climate. Of those which are cultivated, a certain number are liable to rot off at the crowns during a wet winter, but they are generally hardy. The fullest account of the Primulas of the Himalayas at present to be met with is that entitled " Observations on Indian Primulas," by Sir George Watt, C.I.E., M.B., CM., LL.D., which was read before the Horticultural Club in 1904, and republished in the Primula Conference Report of the Royal Horticultural Society, 1913. This was supplemented at the conference by a paper by Mr. W. G. Craib, M.A., entitled " Notes on Himalayan Primulas," and also published in the Conference Report. This is a review of the work done since the appearance of Sir George Watt's contributions. These papers, with the monograph by Pax in Engler's " Pflanzenreich," contain practically all our knowledge of these Primulas from a botanist's point of view. It is my object to discuss them from a horticultural standpoint. P. belUdifolia (King). — ^This belongs to Pax's section Capitatae ; it is closely related to P. farinosa, and, as Sir George Watt well remarks, may be considered a large condition of P. farinosa, our Bird's-eye Primrose. It comes from Sikkim, where it grows at an altitude of 13,000 feet. It has good-sized heads of many bluish purple flowers. It conforms to the same treatment as P. farinosa. P. capitata (Hook. f.). — One meets with many who fail to discriminate between P. capitata and P. denticulata, but those who have seen the two together will at once recognise their great distinct- ness. P. capitata is easily recognised by the dark blue colour of the narrow, bell-shaped flowers in a close head, the outer blooms being pendent ; but an unfailing means of differentiating between P. capitata and P. denticulata lies in the fact that in the former the scape rises with the leaves, and does not precede them, as is the case with P. denticu- lata. This is mentioned because some of the colours now seen in the varieties of the popular P. denticu- lata closely approach those of P. capitata. P. capitata is a handsome species, a foot or more in height. Sir George Watt considered this possibly only an alpiae form of P. denticulata. 'The leaves are frequently farinose, but the forms without meal are the hardiest. In cultivation P. capitata is usually only a biennial, but in some places it is perennial, and in others it flowers and sows itself quite freely. There is an interesting double-flowered form of this vari- able species. P. denticulata (Smith).— It is almost un- necessary to say much regarding this well-known and favourite species. It is one of the easiest to grow, but resents drought, and suffers greatly in dry positions during hot weather. It is the most abundant of the Himalayan Primulas in a state 400 THE GARDEN. [August 8, 1914. of Nature, and extends over a large portion of the Himalayan regions, where it is generally found on grassy hillsides. It varies greatly in size, and in cultivation it is most variable in colour. We now have many varieties, not only of P. denticulata type, but also of the form cashmeriana, which is mainly distinguished by the beautiful farina on the under surface of the leaves. There are many forms passing under various names, such as alba, major, minima, maxima and others, while the colours range from white through shades of purple and lilac and rose. It is quite hardy, but sometimes suffers in variable winters by water lodging in the crowns. P. elongata (Watt), — A Primula which is nearly allied to the well-known P. sikkimensis, but still more nearly to P. obtusifolia, is P. elongata from Sikkim, where it grows at heights of from 11,000 feet to 12,00 J feet. The flowers are yellow and very delicate, with petals which are thin, leaves, and also by it having the flowers on short but distinct pedicels, while those of denticulata are sessile or nearly so. This may be considered a geographical form of P. denticulata. It comes from Kumaon and Bhutan, but is not found in Sikkim. The flowers are of much the same colour as in P. denticulata. When first shown in London, P. erosa was described as having larger flowers, but this is not the case. Morelands, Duns. John MacWatt. (To be continued.) LEWISIA HOWELLII AS A MORAINE PLANT. The illustration of this interesting plant was taken in the nursery of Messrs. Wallace and Co., Colchester, in the early days of June. This plant, which is growing in a moraine, is of exceptional interest by reason of its free-flowering propensities. THE DAFFODIL IN AUS- TRALIA AND N EW ZEALAND. LEWISIA HOWELLII GROWING IN A MORAINE. THIS PLANT HUNDRED FLOWERS THIS YEAR. PRODUCED OVER FOUR smooth and veined. It has the smooth leaves of P. sikkimensis, but the corolla tubes are much elongated. P. elongata is not difficult to cultivate under the same conditions as P. sikkimensis. P. Elwesiana (King). — Handsome though this is, it is not su easy to cultivate as many of the Himalayan species. P. Elwesiana comes from Sikkim, where it grows at a height of about twelve thousand feet. It is worthy of any amount of attention from those who are fortimate enough to possess it. It is rather pubescent, although the leaves are coriaceous, and has large, solitary flowers of purple or violet. It belongs to Pax's section Omphalogramma, and is nearly related to the charming P. vincaeflora. P. erosa (Wall.). — Pax places this among the Capitataj, and it is very closely related to the popular P. denticulata. It is distinguished from the latter by its very large and thin erose It has ten branched flower-spikes, each with from thirty to sixty buds and expanded flowers. The illustration scarcely does justice to this wonderful specimen, which carried over four hundred flowers this year. Tiiis plant has stood two winters, and is now better than ever. Its chief requirement appears to be thorough drainage, such as only a well-made moraine can give. As the Lewisia belongs to the same Natural Order as the Portulaca, otherwise known as Purslane or Sun Plant, it is, perhaps, not so surprising that it thrives when given perfect and thorough drainage and an open, sunny position. Unfortunately, a good many who would like to cultivate this charming and interesting plant find it very difficult to manage, especially when only given ordinary rock garden treatment. The success achieved in this instance may act as a guide to those who have tried the plant and failed. 1 SUPPOSE there are some people who are observant by nature, and some who are not. I never do know the colour of Mrs. So-and-so's new go^vn, or what sort of hat Miss What-do-you-call-her wore at that garden-party. Until I had a house to furnish, I never seemed to realise any great difference between chairs and tables, but when the necessity arose I never saw any chairs or tables alike. History has repeated itself with me in the case of the Daffodil in Australia and New Zealand. I knew that there were people there who grew the flower. I even knew that people of the names of Thomas, Rhodes, Clark, Miller and Buckland had started the fascinating game of hybridising, and that they had turned out some good seedlings ; for pictures now and again found their way to WhiteweU, and I had seen a real New Zealand-raised bloom in one of Mr. A. M. Wilson's collections at Vincent Square last year. Further, I knew from what Miss Currey used to tell me years back, and from information given me by my old friend Kingsmill about the celebrated syndicates of the late nineties, that some of the very best of our home-raised varieties were going to those regions year after year. I knew that there were shows at such places as Melbourne and Auckland and Christchurch. But I had no idea of the vast extent to which the cultivation of the Daffodil had spread, more especially in New Zealand ; nor of the great army of seedling-raisers already at work ; nor of the network of shows ; nor of the large quantities of the better sorts that are yearly passing from us to them. All these things were a revelation, and, unless I had had to forage about for material for the 1914 Royal Horticultural Society's " Daffodil Year Book," in all human probability they would still have been unknown, and the writing of this present article no more possible than for me to chronicle the doings of the Martians in Mars. Let me deal, then, in orderly sequence with my subject, and, for the sake of clearness, let me divide it into " heads " — " Growers," " Seedling-Raisers," " Shows," and " Dealings." Growers. — Casual words frequently reveal more than set phrases or sentences. The casual words here are the prominence given to the Daffodil in such papers as the Fann Journal of Sydney (August I and September i, 1913) ; the Weekly Presa of Christchurch ; the Olago Witness of Dunedin (October 8, 1913) ; and the Weekly Graphic of Auckland (September 18, 1912). Illustrations in quantity and columns of spare are not given by editors to anything and every- thing. When we do find them, they betoken a public who want them. These, of course, might not be growers. What, however, can be the mean- ing of a catalogue like that of Messrs. W. H. Higgins, Limited, of Geelong, Victoria, with thirty pages out of forty given up to Daffodils ; or Reilly, Gill and Co.'s (Dunedin) list of 276 varieties, but that someone wants them for their garden ? Why is it that little spring shows are rising up like mushrooms all over New Zealand, and that in them Daffodils are invariably the leading feature ? Why does St. John's Church, Fielding August 8, 1914.] THE GARDEN 401 (Wellington), or St. Luke's, Rotorua (Auckland), or PalmerstoTi North, or the Presbyterian Church of Cambridge (Auckland) have a Daffodil society or an exhibition where Daffodils are the flowers ? Why ? Because there are people in their midst who are growing them. A few large shows like those of Dunedin or Auckland or Christchurch need not indicate a wide interest. A multiplicity of small ones does do so. Seedling-Raisers.— I am unable to say very much about the seedling-raisers of Australia. To begin with, as far as I know. Daffodil cultivation is con- fined to New South Wales and Victoria ; but why South Australia should not join in I cannot imagine. Perhaps it does and I do not know it. If so, there may be a seedling-raiser or two there. In the other pro- vinces, as far as I have been able to ascertain, there are but five or six of any wide repute — Messrs. Leonard Buck- land, Alister Clark and D. V. West in Victoria, and Messrs. H. Selkirk, H. H. B. Bradley and Arthur Yates in Sydney. Mr. Clark specially goes in for triandrus hybrids ; Mr. Selkirk, in the warm climate of Sydney, finds Tazetta hybrids (tridymus and Poetaz) the most satis- factory ; Mr. Bradley, the secretary of the New South Wales Horticultural Society, goes in more for all-round hybrids ; Mr. Yates, ditto ; Mr. L. Buck- land has been very successful of late years, and has won the Boyce Cup for twelve seedlings at the Royal Horticultural Society of Victoria Show. In the Bailarat Show, in the forty- eight class he had about twenty- four of his own seedlings in his collection. Two of his very best are named Pink 'Un and King of the Poets. Mr. D. V. West has been hybridising for many years and has produced some fine flowers. A Leedsii of much the same proportions as White Emperor won the premier prize for a single bloom in that division at the last Bailarat Show ; and his beautiful white Ajax, Mrs. D. V. West, received, as long ago as 1911, a first- class certificate from the Victoria Daffodil Conference. He most kindly sent me two photographs of it, one of which is reproduced on this page. The other, together with an English photograph of a Penzance-grown Mrs. D. V. West, are to appear in the Royal Horticultural Society's " Daffodil Year Book." By the way, now that I know exactly what will be in it, might I suggest that half-a-crown spent upon a copy will be half-a-crown well invested. It was published on August i, and may be obtained, post free, from the Secretary, Royal Horticultural Society, Vincent Square, Westminster, for -zs.- gd. I believe what Mr. West says of Victoria is like- wise true in spirit of New South Wales hybridisers : " I think there are only three who have been raising for over ten years, although there are many more of recent years." We do not know what surprises may be in store when these new recruits have become veterans and given the public a sample of their wares. We do not even know all the quiet work that is going on in our own islands. I was surprised when, at one of the Royal Horti- cultural Society's shows this spring, my young friend, Mr. Guy Wilson of Knowhead, Brough- shane, said, " I have got something to show you of Irish Gardening, as his did this last Jniif ! But what of New Zealand ? Recording his im- pressions in his celebrated tf)ur of the world, the later Peter Barr is reported to have said in Melbourne (Victoria) that " the folks in New Zealand talked Daffodils morning, noon and night." Had he timed his visit for September, there is little doubt but that he would have seen, even then (igoo), that they do more than talk. He would have seen fine collections staged and keen com- petition at the large shows ; and had he visited the homes of many, he would have seen larger or smaller quantities of seedlings of varying ages. In 1897, in the first year of the Dunedin Show, there was a class for New Zealand - raised seedlings, which was won by Mr. Thomas Cranwell. But the credit of being the first to flower a home-raised bloom belongs to Mr. Biggs, who in 1879 fertilised gloriosa (Tazetta) with breviflos, and as a result had two plants of the tridymus type, which, flowering first in 1886, still flourish in "lis garden. Probably the best-known names in the two islands are those of Professor Thomas of Auckland and the late Mr. Mason of Welling- ton in the North ; and of the Hon. R. Heaton Rhodes and Mr, A. E. Lowe of Otahuna, Christchurch, of Mr. H. Hart of Lawrence, and of Mr. Andrew Miller of Dunedin in the South. These, however, are by no means all. Just take some of the names that I am acquainted with : Messrs. Lennie, Grindrod, J. G. Davies (the first man to get an award — 1899 — for a New Zealand-raised flower), Wilson, Maclean, Haggitt, Find- lay, Trevena, Gibson and Branth- waite. Then imagine the goodly number that I do not know, and you will be able to form some esti- mate of the extent to which this fascinating hobby is being taken up by those who dwell in " The Long White Cloud." Joseph Jacob. {To be continued.) NARCISSUS MRS. D. V. WEST, A BEAUTIFUL NEW VARIETY RAIDED IN AUSTRALIA. IT HAS BEEN FLOWERED IN THIS COUNTRY. in the annexe," and when we got there, unearthed from under the staging a narrow flower-box full of his own seedlings ! Real beauties, too, some of them were. For a certain number of years now he has been a visitor at Birmingham and London, and I had fully realised his fondness for the Daffodil ; but I had no idea that all the time he had been quietly working and crossing, and that suddenly he- was going to burst out as a full-blown hybridiser and raiser of seedlings ; for what else can I call anyone whose exploits fill a whole page MUEHLENBECKIA COM PLEXA AS A WALL PLANT. We are accustomed to see the slender, wiry stems and elegant leafage of this charming little trailer spreading prostrate over the boulders of a rockery, or sometimes hanging over the face of a retaining wall ; but when visiting the Suffolk town of Wood- bridge, some beautiful examples were seen treated as climbers, in front of houses by the roadside. Some of the plants thus growing must be of a great age, judging by the wall space covered and the thickness of the main branches or stems. The method of treatment is to nail the leading growths to the wall and let the shorter side shoots hang free. In the course of a season or two the plants assume considerable proportions, and present a delightful appearance quite distinct from any other climber. Heather Bell. 402 THE GARDEN. [August 8, 1914. GARDENS OF TO- DAY. SHENDISH, KING'S LANGLE Y. A LARGE and beautiful rosary /\ makes an imposing fea- / \ ture in Mr. T. N. Long- / % man's delightful gardens •* ^ at Shendisb, King's Langley, Herts, and it was our good fortune a few weeks ago to see the Roses in the height of their beauty. The rosary is of formal design and partly sheltered by a belt of coniferous trees, which, how- ever, are far enough away not to exclude the sunshine so essential for the well-being of Roses. In the centre of this garden of Roses is a large circular bed of Caroline Testout in both bush and standard trees. This grand old Rose still holds its own as one of the best, if not the best, of all the bedding Roses. Only one colour is allowed in each bed, and Lady Battersea, General Macarthur, Mme. Ravary, Lyon, Hugh Dickson, Mrs. Kershaw and Dean Hole are foremost among the varieties occupying surrounding beds, each doing its utmost to outrival its neighbour in producing a wealth of ever-welcome blooms. There are other varieties, too, worthy of special note among the thousand Rose plants which make up this beautiful rosary, and among them we see Richmond, Mme. Leon Pain, La Tosca, Clara Watson, Warrior and Antoine Rivoire. Perhaps La Tosca and Warrior are two of the most profusely flowered. The latter, with its deep Mulberry red flower-buds, A VIEW IN THE ROSE GARDEN AT SHENDISH. ViOLAS ARE SUCCESSFULLY USED AS EDGINGS TO THE ROSE BEDS. is literally smothered in bloom, and both of them may be relied upon to flower freely, however unfavourable the season may be. One comer of this Rose garden is devoted to single Roses, all emanating from Ireland. Irish Elegance is unquestionably the best of the bimch ; but Irish Brightness, Irish Glory, Irish Modesty and Irish Harmony each gives a glowing account of itself, and all of them are much sought for in the decora- tion of tables. Grass paths separate the Rose- beds, and each bed is fringed with some free- flowering Viola of blue or mauve shade, the varie- ties most in evidence being Royal Blue, Mrs. BROAD STONE STEPS LEADING FROM THE ROCK GARDEN. Chichester, Maggie Mott, Mauve Queen, Magpie and Kitty Bell. On the outside of the Rose garden, Roses of more or less rambling habit, like Penzance Briars, Sweet Briars, Grliss an Teplitz and Thenni- dor (the last named a white rambler that flowers with great freedom), lend pleasing touches of colour that link up with the pleasure groimds beyond. A little Dutch garden situated quite close to the house is likewise well provided with Roses. Here the Dwarf Polyanthas Mme. N. Levavasseur and Maman Levavasseur, otherwise known as Baby Crimson Rambler and Baby Dorothy Perkins, are used with telling effect. On another side of the house we observe beds of China Roses even more heavily laden with bloom than the bedding Roses already referred to. The two China Roses that appear to be doing the best of all are Fabvier (scarlet, white centre, and borne on stiff stems) and Mme. Eugene R^sal, with a brilliant rose yellow base to the petals which is very effective. A Delphinium Border. — One of the most delightful features of these gardens at the present time is a long and imposing border of stately Delphiniums. Mr. G. Burrows, the genial head-gardener, whose whole interest is wrapped up in the beautifying of these gardens, has for some years made a point of selecting his own Delphiniums from seed and raising a number of plants each year, with the result that he now has a unique collection of unnamed varieties under his care. Pale blue varieties seem to predomi- nate, although deep purple and reddish purple shades are well represented. Mr. Burrows' method of culture is briefly as follows : Seed is sown at the end of July in boxes and placed in frames. In the spring the seedlings are planted out in a border, with the result that they flower in the following August 8, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 403 September. The best varieties are then selected and planted in their permanent positions in the border, where they may be expected to flower at their very best in the third year. In the spring the growths on established plants are thinned to five or six to avoid overcrowding. The border is edged with Nepeta Mussinii, an extraordinary floriferous plant, making dense, prostrate tufts with numerous spikes of little lavender flowers. This valuable subject is extensively used at Shendish as an edging to the flower borders. In addition to the Delphiniums, there is another blue border devoted to Veronica spicata, the plants being so well grown that they were not at first recognised. This border is also edged with Nepeta Mussinii, the free-flowering Catmint, making a charming study in blue. Rock and Water Garden.— The rock garden, situated on the site of an old chalk pit, is built on a slope facing west, and beyond is a beau- tiful glade and a dell or wild garden where Rosa Brunonii (a S5monym of R. moschata), a climber with yellowish white flowers, is natu- ralised, with most pleasing effect. Geranium Endressii, a P3nrenean species with pale rosy flowers, is also naturalised in the dell, where it is associated with hardy Ferns. Millstone grit and Derbyshire lime- stone have both been used in the making of the rock garden. Stepping-stones are placed here and there in grass paths, and these are quite in keeping with the stone steps, which, by the by, are fur- nished with low-growing alpines, such as Campanula pulla, C. pusilla in variety, Arenaria, Erinus alpinus, Thymus Serpyllum, Dianthus csesius and Sedums in variety. A wealth of colour was created by Campanula mural is. Rock Roses and innumerable varieties of alpine Pinks and Phloxes at the time of our visit. The shrubby Ozotham- nus rosmarinifolius is used to good effect in the background, its pleasing white flowers resembling those of a shrubby Spiraea. Viola gracilis is also very showy, while the patches of Gentiana vema and G. acaulis tell of the superb effect made earlier in the season. The water garden, backed by stately Oaks and situated on a slope to the west, is happily conceived and planted with good taste. The Japanese Iris Kaempferi is grown with marked success, and the same may be said of the Siberian Flag, or Iris sibirica. English and Spanish Irises also flower well, but with the latter it is found neces- sary to plant annually. The Goat's-beard (Spiraea Aruncus) and the Royal Fern (Osmunda regalis) make noble pictures on the banks. A notable feature of the gardens at Shendish IS seen in the magnificent sweep of lawn, including one of the finest bowling greens in the county. The house and gardens are situated at the top of a prominent hill 480 feet above sea-level. At the foot of the hill nestles a pretty little village with its own church and village green, and the model cottages are the homes of farm and garden hands on the Shendish estate. MAKING NEW STRAW- BERRY-BEDS. w ITH the coming of August the time for preparing new Straw- berry-beds arrives. There is perhaps no fruit more easily grown or one which so gratefully repays a little extra care in cultivation. Its shallow-rooting nature renders it particularly liable to suffer from drought, and i tended, a small crop may be expected the following year. The advantages of planting the small pot plants offered by nurserymen are many, and for those to whom time ■ is a consideration they amply justify the extra cost. It is always the earliest runners (and therefore the strongest) that are laid into pots, and, furthermore, the roots suffer little or no disturbance on replanting. In the matter of soU, the Strawberry is most accommodating. It may be found in the heaviest clay and in the lightest sands. Naturally, a the preparation of the soil must therefore be carried [ rich loam is most suitable ; but, failing this, out with this fact in mind. If the ground can 1 much can be done in improving dry soils as before described and in lightening heavy soils by lime or mortar rubbish, always remembering that the most important point is the water supply. The distances for planting vary much, some pre- ferring to plant 3 feet apart in the row and between the row, others making two rows at 2 feet apart and having a wider space for a path between every two rows. Where several varieties are grown to- gether, it is a convenience to make the rows run the shortest way of the bed, so that each variety is in small blocks rather than long lines. The plants, when safely through the danger of drought, should need no further attention until the spring, except in so far as a supplemental supply of manure is concerned. A liberal use of stable manure, with an addition of wood-ashes to supply the necessary potash, will provide all that is necessary. If, however, manure is not available, spent Hops, leaf-mould or rape dust shoiild be given with lib. of sulphate of potash for each 40 square yards in the winter, and in the spring 81b. of super- phosphate and 2lb. of sulphate of ammonia for the same area. Having briefly dealt with cultural matters, it remains to suggest a few varieties which will give a good succession of fruit. The earliest fruit in most gardens is Vicomtesse H. de Thury, which, unlike most early fruits, possesses an excellent flavour. For the second earliest variety Royal Sovereign still stands unbeaten, and Presi- therefore be trenched 2 feet deep and well-rotted i dent is quite one of the best varieties manure incorporated in the soil, this will aid | for the main crop. It has some of the old greatly in conserving the moisture. In these j " pine " flavour. A little later on there A WATER GARDEN SCENE IN THE GARDENS AT SHENDISH, king's LANGLEY. days of motor-cars it is well perhaps to add that, failing stable manure, leaf-mould or spent Hops will serve the same purpose, but these will need to be supplemented with chemical manures. Any garden which has been well cultivated and manured for vegetable crops will not need this special attention, and in this case the manure will be better added at a later period. The great advantage of August planting is that the young rurmers may make good growth before the winter, and therefore no care should be spared to keep them well watered should a dry time comes The Bedford, a new-comer which has made its way to the front, as it possesses good size, first-class flavour, and is a constant bearer. In season it will follow the first two named. Of the later sorts Givon's Late Prolific is quite the finest. The vigorous foliage keeps the plant in good health, and the crop is produced over a very long season. • This list would provide a good selection for gardens of medium size, and are of varieties which can be relied on without any very special cultural attention. For those who regard flavour of much more consequence than production of fruit and vigorous growth, British Queen and follow their planting. From good runners thus ' Dr. Hogg cannot be omitted. Among the newer 404 THE GARDEN. [August 8, 1914- sorts Hibberd's George V. is one of remark- able promise, coming about two weeks later than Sir Joseph, Paxton, and produces a large number of fine scarlet fruits of firm flesh and excellent flavour. This is without doubt a variety of the future, and before long will be found in all gardens. I cannot conclude without recommending once again the valuable service rendered by the autumnal Strawberries, of which so many have been produced within recent years. The two varieties which have shown the greatest promise are the Mer\'eille de France and St. Fiacre autumnals. Both of these may be relied on to give a crop of fruit of first-class flavour from the middle of August till September, and in sheltered positions even later. A comer should be found for these in every garden, as they We generally sow the seed the last week in .\ugust, and pot oft the resultant seedlings as soon as possible in 2j-inch pots, placing them in a light position, yet not in the direct rays of the sun. A frame outdoors having a northern aspect is excellent. As soon as growth has become active, pinch out the growing point and repeat it later, but the second time pinch all the laterals as well. This will lay the foundation of a strong, well-branched plant. Before the plants get root- bound in the pots (and this must never be allowed to occur, as the plants may as well be thrown out as allowed to flower), a further move into 5-inch or 6-inch pots must be given. The 5-inch pots are perhaps the best, as it is not wise to over- pot them. They are impatient of careless watering and drought, either extreme proving fatal to one's hopes. Steadily keep to the pinching and repotting. A SCHIZANTHUS PLANT GROWN FROM SEED AS DESCRIBED ON THIS PAGE. provide a welcome addition to the fruits of the holiday season. E. A. Bunyard. SCHIZANTHUS AS A S P R I N G-F L OWE RING PLANT. THE value of Schizanthus as a sprinp- flowering plant cannot be over- estimated, and a good batch of this popular yet dainty and light flower is more appreciated at that season of the year than at any other time. Not only do the plants flower more profusely, but the absence of that scorching sun which is experienced later on in the year allows them to retain their beauty and freshness for a considerable period. A conservatory in which the main subjects are Primulas of sorts, herbaceous Calceolarias and Schizanthus wisetonensis is a sight to remember. never hastening the plants in any way, and by the middle of October they may be potted into the final or flowering pots. These mAy be either 8 inches or 9 inches in diameter, according to the grower's discretion or convenience. The soil for this potting is very important, and should not contain too much humus and no artificial manure, unless it is a little bone-meal. Good strong loam should comprise three parts of the mixture, the other part consisting of wood-ashes, lime rubble and leaf-mould. Firmly press the soil around the plants as the work proceeds, and leave quite 3 inches for top-dressing if in a g-inch pot, and a little less if in an 8-inch pot. Stake the plants nicely, and if the weather is still open they may be left in the frame. I have known them to experience 5° or 6° of frost and take not the slightest harm. However, it is always the best plan when they have got so far on to take no chances ; but never give them more heat than is absolutely necessary to be safe. As soon as they start growing again. they may be top-dressed with the same mixture as advised for the final potting. They may then be given a little diluted cow-manure, gradually increasing the strength of it until the flowers look ready for opening, when it is best to cease. They may then be moved to the conservatorj'. Charles Trott. Ewood Hall Gardens, Mytholmroyd, Yorkshire. NEW AND RARE PLANTS. Petunia Purple King. — A very handsome doub'.e-flowered variety, colour imperial purple, of a rich intense shade. Very striking and distinct. From Mr. \. E. Billinghurst, Broadway, Croydon. Erica vagans St. Keverne. — .\ very charming bright rose pink flowered variety of a beautiful plant. When sufficiently plentiful it will be sure of a warm welcome. Shown by Mr. P. D. Williams, Lanarth, St. Keverne, Coniwall. Carnation Mrs. F. G. Bealing. — .\ salmon pink coloured border variety, showing considerable freedom of flowering. From Mr. F. G. Bealing, Bassett, Southampton. Laelio-Cattleya Miss Louisa Fowler (Lslio- Cattleya callistoglossa x Cattleya granuleea). — Sepals and petals mauve, lip rich purple. A very beautiful variety. From Mr. J. Gurney Fowler, Pcmbury, Kent. Cattleya hardyana rubens. — Large purple lip, with rosy mauve sepals and petals. From Mr. J. Gumey Fowler. Oncidium Leopoldii Fairlawn Variety.— The predominating colour is mauve, shaded with green, the inflorescence bearing a considerable ntunber of flowers. Shown by Mr. H. Goodson, Fairlawn, Putney. Cattleya Astron (Cattleya Dusseldorfi variety Undine x C. Harrisoni alba). — A very charming white form, the widely winged sepals and petals and lip slightly touched with yellow in the throat, making up a really beautiful flower. Shown by Baron Bruno Schroder, Englefield Green. The foregoing were shown before the Royal Horticultural Society on the 28th ult., and eich received an award of merit. Gladiolus Loveliness. — \ delightful mingling of pale pink and cream, with yellow shading, in a flower of fine texture and splendid proportions. Some grand spikes were shown. First-class certificate. Gladiolus Fire King. — K magnificent variety of flame scarlet colour. The spike is very fine. Gladiolus Armagnae. — This splendid variety is ci)'.our<;d crimson, with a mnspicuous white throat. Gladiolus Chicago White. — A handsome white variety, with rfsy markiiif;s in the throat. Gladiolus Marie Therese. — A nearly pure white variety of handsome proportions, marked with rose on a straw-coloured blotch. The foregoing five varieties were exhibited by Messrs. Atkinson and Staffer, Locksheath, near Southampton. Gladiolus Abeliard. — A handsome spike of soft pink flowers, lightly striped a deeper shade of the same colour. Gladiolus White Giant. — The spikes were of splendid proportions, the handsome, pure white flowers well meriting the description of *' Giant." It is one of the finest we remember to have seen. These two were exhibited by Messrs. Kelway and Son, Langport, Somerset. Each of these Gladioli received an award of merit from the National Gladiolus Society on the 28th ult. August 8, 1914-] THE GARDEN. 405 GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. HOW TO FORCE FREESIAS, HYACINTHS AND NARCISSI T I HE amateur cultivator, especially the beginner, derives a great deal of pleasure from the work of forcing bulbs in pots. Many bulbs are confined to a small space, and as every stage of growth is watched by the cultivator, the latter becomes deeply interested DIAGRAM SHOWING THE RIGHT AND WRONG METHODS OF POTTING FREESIAS. in the welfare of the plants and likes to learn how he can improve them from year to year. Now. all this is very interesting if the bulbs grown are good ones. If they are unripe, small, soft and do not contain an embryo flower-stem or only a very weakly one, then the efforts of the cultivator, however well they may be directed, will not be of much avail. The best bulbs are not always the largest ; the finest are those which are very firm and thoroughly matured. When selecting the bulbs, therefore, the cultivator should be sure that they are heavy for their size and quite firm near the crown. Composts for Pot Bulbs. — In every case a fairly light compost is the most suitable, and porosity of the soil is very essential to success. Old loam is better than new, so that the cultivator should give preference to the former. If there is only a small quantity of old loam available, then some old potting soil — that which has not been in pots long enough to become sour — should be mixed with the portion of new loam to be used. Leaf-soil is a valuable ingredient. It may be used at the rate of one-third of leaf-soil to two- thirds of loam, and sand sufficient to ensure the sound drainage of all soil placed in the pots. If manure is added, it must be well decayed and slightly dried in an open shed, then rubbed through an inch-mesh sieve. Artificial manures must not be added, as all necessary feeding can be done after the pots are taken from the plunging material. Freesias. — There must be a careful grading of all Freesia bulbs before any are potted. If the small ones are potted indiscriminately with the large, then there will be fewer blooms in each pot, and the small bulbs will not improve much in size. No. i in Fig. A shows the smallest bulb. Such must be potted separately, as few of them will produce flower-stems. No. 2 bulbs must also be potted separately. A number of them will bear flowers, and these will be useful for cutting to place in vases. No. 3, the largest bulbs, should be potted separately. These will produce the finest flowers and look remarkably well in the greenhouse or conservatory. In every case the bulbs should be put in about an inch apart, whether large or small or medium, and then all have freedom to grow and develop fully during the season. Having well drained the pots — which may vary in size from 3 J inches to 6 J inches — put in a small portion of rough compost, then some finer, and, having slightly firmed it, place the bulbs as shown at No, 4, burying them in the proportion depicted. It is wrong to pot them as shown at No. 5. When potted, give water freely through a ftne-rosed watering can and plunge the pots in sand, old ashes or common soil as shown at No. 6, not covering the surface of the soil and the rims of the pots. They may be arranged in a dry place in the open air, or in a cold frame from which the glass lights must be removed in dry weather until the leaves appear through the soil. Roman Hyacinths. — No. i. Fig. B, shows a Roman Hyacinth bulb. Five good bulbs may be grown in a 6J-inch flower-pot and four in a 5-inch one. No. 2 shows the correct way to pot these bulbs. Having loosely filled the pot level with the rim with the prepared compost, scatter some sand on the surface and then press the bulbs down as shown in the sketch. Add any more compost as may be found necessary to must be removed from the covering material and placed in a cold frame, there to remain for several weeks. The frame must be covered with mats for at least a week, and then full light should be gradually admitted. The same course must be adopted in regard to the ventilating of the frame ; little at first, then abimdance. From the frame the pots can be taken to the greenhouse or other structure in which a warmer temperature can be maintained, and flowers obtained to form a succession in due time. G. G. HOW TO POT ROMAN HYACINTHS FOR FORCING. complete the potting. Another way is to three parts fill the pots with compost and make it firm ; then put in the bulbs and surround them with soil, leaving, as sho\vn, the crowns of the biilbs above the surface. Water the soil freely ; then put empty inverted and smaller pots on as shown at No. 3. Cover all with old ashes or sand until the new growth is nearly two inches high. Narcissi. — No. r. Fig. C, shows a Narcissus bulb, and No. 2 the correct way to pot them. The new growth of well-buried bulbs is always stronger than that of those so buried as to leave the crowns above the soil ; but if the bulbs are very large and many flowers are required in each pot, then, in order to get in more bulbs, the latter may be potted higher up at the widest part of the pot, so as to leave the crowns of the bulbs just visible. Water these bulbs, too, and then bury them imder the ashes, as shown at No. 3, in any position outside if the base is well drained. When New Growth Begins. — When the new shoots have commenced to grow freely, the pots THE CULTIVATION OF ENDIVE. Very few cultivators grow fine plants of Endive. If matured where sown, the plants must be thinned early and freely, as overcrowded plants never give satisfaction. When transplanted, the Endive must be grown in rich but firm soil. If a succession of plants is required over a long period, the following treatment will prove helpful : At least two sowings should be made, one early in July and another early in August. The plants resulting from the latter sowing of seeds will be useful for lifting and replanting in a frame. If possible, avoid growing Endive on any ground recently occupied by Cabbages or Cauliflowers, as the latter crops impoverish the soil too much for the Endive to do well. Ground from which Peas, Beans or Turnips have been cleared will be quite suitable. Dig up such soil, put in a liberal quantity of well-rotted manure, break up all large lumps, and tread down the soil again while in a fairly dry state ; then put out the young Endive plants 18 inches apart each way and water them. The plants spread considerably, and when fully grown will almost cover the whole space. Planted nearer than stated would cause inconvenience, as the workman could not get between the plants to attend to them. All early plants may be blanched by gathering up the outside leaves at midday, when every leaf is quite dry, and loosely tying them in the same way as Lettuces are tied. The later plants should be carefully lifted and replanted in October in a cold frame rather close together and in raised soil. The outside leaves will gradually decay. As they do so, remove them. Ventilate very freely in fine weather, and so guard against excessive moisture ; then a nice supply of fresh and well- blanched hearts may be secured. Shamrock. "/'///ii/^i/z/wh/mmi. THIS DIAGRAM ILLUSTRATES THE POTTING OF DAFFODIL BULBS FOR FORCING. 406 THE GARDEN. [August 8, 1914. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS. Fruits Under Glass. Early Muscat Vines from which the crop has been gathered should receive careful attention with regard to insect life. If red spider or thrip is present on the foliage, some means must be adopted to rid the Vines of these destructive pests, or the prospect of a satisfactory crop next season will be much reduced. If the borders are well drained and the roots healthy, liberal supplies of clear, soft water should be given, and the foliage syringed daily with a view to keeping it quite free from insects. Late Muscat Grapes will require moderate heat in the pipes at night to ensure a buoyant atmosphere, if the berries are to be quite ripe and well coloured by the end of September. While the berries are swelling, there must be no lack of moisture at the roots ; and when water is necessary, a bright day should be chosen for applying it, so that the ventilators may be open during the day and partly so at night. Do not allow the growths to become overcrowded, but, at the same time, sufficient young shoots must be retained to keep the roots constantly active. A night temperature of 75° should be maintained. Pot Strawberries. — The early batch of plants should be potted with as little delay as possible. The soil may consist of three parts turfy loam and the remainder of decayed manure, and this sho^lld be thoroughly mixed a few days previous to use. Make the soil firm about the roots, but do not break the small balls of soil in which the young plants have been growing. Plants Under Glass. Zonal Pelargoniums. — Plants for winter flower- ing should now be established in 6-inch or 7-inch pots, and must be groivn in the open quarters fully exposed to the sun-, and secured against rough wind. Keep the plants within bounds by pinching leading shoots as it becomes necessary. No great quantity of manure need be applied at present, but soot-water may be given about once weekly to keep the foliage in a healthy condition. Crotons. — Well-coloured tops may still be inserted in the propagating frame with a view to raising young plants for decoration during the winter. These are very useful for small groups, for filling large vases, or for table decoration. When sufficiently rooted they may be potted into 4-inch pots and grown in an exposed position in the stove - in order to increase their coloiu:. Pot Roses which are growing in the open must not be neglected, but should receive daily attention to watering and cleaning the pots. Give frequent applications of soot-water or liquid manure from the farmyard. Humea elegans. — Young plants should now be potted into 4-inch pots and placed in a cold frame. Water carefully until they become established, and open the ventilators early each morning, but avoid draughts. Tlie Flower Garden. Pansies. — The seedlings should now be ready for transplanting in a well-prepared border, and may afterwards be transferred to their flowering quarters. Keep the young plants well supplied with moisture at the roots, and stir the soil frequently with a Dutch hoe. Belladonna Lilies growing under a south wall should be given a good soaking of clear water, and the soil lightly stirred with the point of a small fork. This will give vigour to the plants and enable them to pusli up their flower-spikes. Hollyhocks. — ^To obtain the best results with these, the seeds should be sown now in pans of sandy soil and placed in a cool, shady pit until germination takes place. Prick out the young plants as soon as large enough to handle, and ultimately pot into 5-inch pots and grow as hardily as possible. By this means good strong plants should be available in the begiiming of April. The Rock Garden. Taking Cuttings. — August is the best month for takmg cuttings of Phlox, Dianthus and numerous plants for the rock garden. The best method is to insert the cuttings in small pots or in pans of sandy soil, and place them in a close, cold frame facing north. Shrubs Suitable for Rock Gardens which may be propagated during the autumn should include Hypericum olympicum, H. patulum, H. Nummu- larium, Cistuses in variety (these require a warm, dry soil, with a certain amount of shelter), Olearia stellulata. O. Haastii, Cotoneaster humifusa, Daphne Cneorum, D. blagayana. Genista tinctoria, G. anglica and G. sagittalis. The Kitchen Garden. Cucumbers. — If winter Cucumbers are desired, there must be no delay in so%ving the seeds, which should be placed in small, clean pots over a gentle hot-bed imtil germmatiou takes place, after which the pots may be raised to within r foot of the roof glass, in order to keep them stocky. When they have made a leaf or two they may be potted into 5-inch pots, and shoiild be ready for planting about the third week in August. Another sowing may be made a month later for fruiting in the new year, during the first three months of which Cucumbers are sometimes difficult to grow in consequence of dull weather. Late Peas. — The latest batch of Peas should now be growing freely, and, if dry weather continues, they will require a good supply of water at the roots. A mulching of farmyard manm-e should also be applied. Carrots. — It is not too late to make a sowing of stump-rooted Carrots for use during the winter, or for leaving in the ground until the spring. Young Carrots which are just showing through the surface should be thinned as soon as possible, the ground broken between the rows, and a light dusting of soot given. Onions. — A sowmg of Golden Rocca and .Ailsa Craig should be made about the middle of August. The bed must be deeply dug, but no fresh manure applied. When the soil has become dry, the bed may be trodden evenly and raked level. The drills should be at least r5 inches apart. A dressing of soot may be given with advantage previous to digging the ground. Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn. FOR NORTHERN GARDENS. The Kitchen Garden. Cauliflowers. — There is usually a superabundant supply at this season, and it will be wise to go over the plot frequently and bend over a few leaves to protect the heads from the sun's rays. Later plants will be greatly benefited by a liberal application of liquid manure. Should this not be available, nitrate of soda will be a good substitute, an ounce to a gallon of water. Nitrate of soda is particularly distasteful to grubs. Tomatoes. — A sowing may be made now to produce a crop of fruit in the winter, and as these plants have to pass through the dullest time of the year, they must be grown as sturdily as possible. Sow the seed thinly in pans, or, if only a few plants are grown, it would be as well to sow one or two seeds in small pots, leaving only the strongest seedlings. As soon as they have come through, place them on a shelf close to the roof glass, shifting them later into 6-inch pots. Cucumbers. — To have asupply during the winter months, sow a few seeds in pots now, and make another sowing in about a month's time. Place them in the propagating-case, and if a suitable house is not ready for them, they will require to be potted on. Great care must be taken with this batch, as during cold autumn days mildew very often makes its appearance. Lettuces. — A small sowing of some of the winter Lettuce can now be made, but only the hardiest sorts, such as Stanstead Park, should be grown. Make another sowing towards the end of the month, which in most cases ought to meet the demand. The Flower Garden. Bedding Geraniums.— A start must now be made to get a supply of cuttings for next year's requirements. As the season's display is by no means over, great care must be taken not to disfigure the plants. Secure a number of each variety now, going over the plants again in about ten days' time, and if carefully done, these cuttings will scarcely be missed. Heucheras. — Like the foregoing, these graceful 1 perennials are easily increased by cuttings. As soon as the flowers are over, cut down the spike and secure a batch of cuttings, which will root readily in a cold frame. It is a good plan to plant out a number on a side border for cutting, as nothing is more graceful when arranged in vases. H. brizoides and H. gracillima are possibly the best varieties for this purpose. A Rock Garden. — As the season advances, this W interesting part of the flower garden will require almost daily attention in the way of cutting off faded flowers and watering such as seem to be suffering. The cutting away of the faded flowers of Saxifrages gives them a new lease of life. Plants Under Glass. Lachenalias. — These useful greenhouse plants should now receive attention. Shake the corms from the old soil and pot them up in a mixture of loam, leaf-soil and sand. But perhaps the most effective way in which to grow them is in wire baskets suspended from the roof. For a time after potting keep the plants perfectly cool, and careful watering will be required until' growth commences. No artificial feeding should be given until the flower- spikes appear. Chrysanthemums. — As the pots are now becoming filled with roots, the plants must be regularly fed with one or other of the many manures now on the market. At the same time liquid manure from the farmyard and soot-water must not be despised. The taking of the bud of the single- stemmed varieties is a most important operation, and had better be left to the man in charge. In an ordinary way a start may be made now by taking them as they appear. Marguerite Mrs. F. Sanders. — Cuttings of this useful greenhouse plant should now be secured for supplying flowering plants for the early summer. They will root best in a warm pit where they can be shaded for a time, after which they must be grown on in a cool, airy house. Pinch out the centres when they have made 4 inches or 5 inches of growth, to ensure a bushy habit. Mignonette. — To have a batch of this fragrant plant in bloom in the winter and early spring, the seed must be sown without delay. To save disappointment it will be as well to sow three or four seeds in a small pot and retain the strongest seedling. Keep them in a cold frame well exposed to the light, and nip out the blooms as they appear until the plants are large enough. Preparing Frames and Pits for Cuttings.— As the season is now at hand when a start must be made for securing cuttings that require protection, the pits and frames should be got ready for the various occupants. Very often cuttings are put into frames where the soil has possibly not been renewed for years. This is a great mistake, as it will well repay to renew the soil. Have the lights and glass thoroughly J washed on both sides. I The Hardy Fruit Garden. Raspberries. — Most of the fruit will now have been gathered, and, if time permits, have the old canes cut out at once, and leave only sufficient of the young ones to provide next year's supply. These had better be tied up loosely in the meantime to enable the canes to be thoroughly hardened. They would also be benefited by having the old J mulching taken off and replaced with some fresh I manure from the farmyard. 1 Plums. — These seem to be badly infested with aphides this season, and although there have been several heavy tliunderstorms, they have failed to completely dislodge them. In such cases it will be well to have badly infested trees syringed with Quassia extract, and afterwards with clear water. Cherries. — The fruit will now have been picked, J at least of the sweet varieties, and the trees should I receive attention. Lay in any shoots required ■ for furnishing the wall, and if the soil is at all dry, give a good soaking of water to the roots. Perhaps Cherries suffer more from lack of moisture at the roots than almost any other wall tree. John Highgate. (Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.) Hopetoun Gardois, South Queettsjerry, N.B. August 8, 1914.] THE GARDEN. 407 FRAGRANCE IN ROSES. IN his interesting article on " Rose- growing in Town Gardens," page 329, issue June 27, Mr. Goddard cliaUenges criticism when he writes that the pleasure derived from the sight of a beautiful Rose is " intellectual," while that given by the scent of a Rose is " purely sensual." Is memory purely sensual ? Surely not. Surely it is memory that gives us our individuality, and few will deny that a waft of fragrance will recall the past more vividly than any vision can do. Smell, as Mr. E. F. Benson has well said, is the most " memoristic " of the senses ; it certainly is the most emotional, and I should be sorry to think that intellect and emotion are necessarily antago- nistic. Poetry has been described as intellect touched by emotion, and if I might borrow an idea from this phrase, I should say that a beautiful Rose without scent stands in the same relation to one with the added charm of fragrance that prose does to poetry. Like poetry, the fragrance of a flower may waken in us something that is far indeed from being purely sensual. There is really no reason to depreciate one sense in favour of another ; indeed, the senses are so closely allied that it is almost impossible to dissociate them from one another. If we see a lovely La France or Horace Vemet Rose, we un- consciously associate it with the delicious fragrance we know that it possesses ; and so the mere sight of a flower we know to be fragrant gives us greater pleasure than the scentless perfection of a Baroness Rothschild or a Frau Karl Druschki can do. In saying this I do not suggest that we should never grow a Rose that is without scent. Some Roses — Rosa sinica Anemone, for instance — are so pleasing to the eye that we cannot forego the pleasure they give one of our senses merely because they do not gratify another ; but I would plead for the inclusion in our gardens of such Roses as The Tuscany, Maiden's Blush and the old Damask, which, though lacking in size and form, are richly endowed with fragrance. It is not necessary always to look back to past times for a sweet-scented Rose ; many are still being produced. Evangeline, a single wichuraiana with the pink of the wild Rose, brought out in 1906, is delightfully fragrant, and in common with Gruss an Zabem, a snow white multiflora, has the power of scenting the air around it. In fact, the wichuraianas as a class are much more fragrant than were the old Ayrshires. They have got a bad name in this respect because two of the most popular, Dorothy Perkins and Hiawatha, are practically scentless ; but Franpois Juranville, coppery pink, and Paul Transon, a rampant grower, both have a most refreshing scent of Apples ; the bright crimson Excelsa has also the fruity type of smell, and the large-flowered pale pink Gerbe Rose, besides having beautiful thorn- less green shoots and glorious foliage, is one of the sweetest of all Roses. The graceful pale pink Debutante and the new perpetual pure white Sylvia are well worth growing on account of their fragrance. No doubt many of the lovely Hybrid Teas are not nearly so sweet as were the old summer Roses, such as Maiden's Blush and the Cabbage Rose, nor have they the deliciously refreshing fragrance of such Hybrid Perpetuals as Victor Hugo, Horace Vemet and many another veteran ; but those rosarians who are on the look-out for fragrance, who also want the bright colour, pointed form and perpetual habit of the Hybrid Teas, can find these qualities combined in Richmond, Liberty, Andr6 Gamon, KUlamey and others, while Lady Alice Stanley and Grand Due Adolphe de Luxem- bourg have the brilliant colouring and sweet scent, but not the pointed form. One of the most beautiful of the new Roses in the Seedling Tent at the National Rose Society's Show on July 7 was Mrs. George Norwood. This variety is of a soft shade of pink, of fine form, with high pointed centre, and, to crown all, a quite remarkable fragrance. It was also shown among the new Roses competing at Holland House for the Clay Cup, to be given to the Rose possessing in the most marked degree the true old Rose scent, and was the only one in this class which combined lovely form and colour with exquisite fragrance. The successful Rose was Queen of Fragrance, a wide open, flat flower with a blush pink centre, brought out by Messrs. W. Paul and Son of Waltham Cross. The competition was an interesting one, though the specimens in the class when I saw them on the second day looked so tired and jaded that there was little to recommend them except their fragrance. The variety which apparently had the power of retaining this quality the longest was one of Messrs. Alexander Dickson's called Mrs. Bryce Allen. It had, as seen that day, dull pink flowers of the old-fashioned flat shape, but its scent was most delicious. The judges of the new seedling Poses at the National Rose Society's Show were instructed to consider the fragrance as well as the form and colour of the Roses before them. This will doubtless encourage the hybridists to try to propagate from those varieties which are most sweetly scented, and so to retain the real old Rose smell as one of the principal features of the Queen "f Flowers. White Lady. [We suggest that the judges of new Roses for fragrance should be blindfolded. Perhaps " White Lady " will get some friend to test fragrance when blindfolded and note the interesting results. The same flower has been declared less or more fragrant when given to a blindfolded judge the second time 1 —Ed.] WORK AMONG THE AURICULAS. THE Auriculas will now begin their second season of growth, and if we are to secure a good truss of bloom next April we must encourage the plants in every way possible, for what is known as " a '^ood autumn growth " is most essential. The subject of this series of articles ought not to be coddled in the least, and the treatment given now and during the autumn months will play an important part later on, especially when we come to the most critical months of November and December. Full exposure to the air should be the rule, except- ing, of course, during heavy rain which is likely to make them very wet at the roots. Green fly must be kept down and all dead leaves should be removed, while the usual precaution ought to be taken in regard to the watering pot. Offsets. — These are taken ofl twice a year, viz., in February and August. I always try to make a general examination of the plants during this month, and take off any of the offsets that are large enough for removal. If the variety is a fairly common one and no more stock is required. they are thrown away or planted out in a small nursery bed, where they remain until they arc fit to be removed to the rock garden or ordinary flower border. With a choice kind the reverse is the order ; each offset is placed in a pot and carefully tended, so as to bring it to the flowering stage in the shortest possible time. Good varieties sometimes produce offsets very slowly, and this fact should be borne in mind when purchasing some of the best in the market. As a rule it takes an offset from eighteen months to two years to attain full size, while seedlings take about the same time. Some of the offsets that were potted up in February may require a move on, and where such is the case the present is a suitable time to carry it out, using the same kind of soil as advised in the article that appeared in May. Each plant should be examined, and if the surface soil has become hard or sour, it can be pricked up with a pointed stick. This not only gives them a much neater appearance, but is also of considerable benefit to the plants. The Brown Grub. — Happily, this pest does not often make its appearance where the best loam and clean leaf-mould are employed as a rooting medium. It usually attacks the plants in early autumn, and, if any are looking sickly, this may be the cause, or perhaps the tap-root has begun to decay. The soil must be shaken from the roots and the stem exposed, when it can easily be ascer tained what is doing the mischief. Before repotting in fresh soil, and in all probability a smaller receptacle, the stem must be cut back if decayed and the grub destroyed, or it will bore its way right through the centre of the plant. There is no need to repeat the details given in past months, but I strongly advise the grower to treat the Auricula as a plant, and by using ordinary common sense and striking what is popularly known as the happy medium in cultural matters, the results will be most satisfactory. T. W. Briscoe. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. QUESTIONS AND AYiSVlERS.— The Editor endeavours to make The Garden helpful to all readers w?io desire assist- ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and tvith that object makes a special feature of the "Answers to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20. Tavistock Street, Covent Garden. London, W.C. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely packed in damp grass or 7noss, not cotton-wool, and flowering shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters on business should be sent to the Publisher. FLOWER GARDEN. IRIS (E. M. S.). — The Iris is I. ochroleuca, and is also known as I. gigantea. It is a proverbially shy-flowering plant, and, resenting much root disturbance, requires age before it flowers at all. It is occasionally seen under the most opposite conditions of dry and wet, sun and shade, and behaving much alike in all. Some of the finest examples we have seen, however, were in light, rich loam in full sun. The plants reached 6 feet high and flowered splendidly, after which for three years they took a rest and gave but few flowers. All you can do is to encourage good growth by early summer watering and a free use of liquid manure or guano-wat«r. It is a plant for experi- ment, and one for which it is difficult to lay down hard- and-fast rules. ROSES WITH BAD CENTRES (Reigate).— There are very many crippled flowers this season, owing, we believe, to the late frosts and altogether bad weather in many parts. It is unwise in such a season to be in a hurry as to disbudding, as we are apt to retain the central bud, which is too often damaged. As you gave the Roses the various ingredients you name in the winter and early spring, you have somewhat overdone it in giving the other 408 THE GARDEN. [August 8. 1914, articles alternately once a week. Had you kept the cow- manure in liquid form, you would probably have had better quality blooms. A dozen good reliable exhibition Roses, avoiding white and cream, are Gloire de Chedane Guinoisseau, Avoca, Margaret, Lady Ashtown, Mrs. "Wallace Rowe, Hugh Dickson, Slarquise Litta, Mrs. Walter Easlea, Lohengrin, Lady Ursula, Exquisite and Ulrich Brunner. BEGONIA FLOWERS DROPPING (H. E.).—It is diffi- cult to assign any reason for the flowers of your Begonias dropping in the way described. Tlie plants may have suffered from drought, a likely cause of the trouble, for hot, dry weatner such as we have experienced this summer is not to the lildng of tuberous Begonias. For this reason, and in order to ensure a regular condition of moisture, many cultivators mulch the beds of these Begonias with Cocoanut refuse or leaf-mould. DIVIDING PRIMULAS {Wilts).— The Primulas may be divided af any time after flowering, and the present is suitable, pro\ided you can give them the requisite attention in watering and shading for a week or two following the operation. Both P. rosea and P. japonica revel in moisture-laden soils naturally, and, in addition to abundant root moisture, should be afforded free sprink- lings overhead for some days after di\iding the plants. P. frondosa also delights in moisture, though in a lesser degree. All three may be raised from seeds, and that is the better way of ensuring great vigour in the plants. Tiffany, scrim or thin canvas of varying qualities and prices are usually stocked by nurserymen and seedsmen, and your better plan would be to send a request to some of these for samples, or for their catalogues, which as a rule contain them. PLANTS FOR FLAGGED WALKS (Spade).— Th& really suitable plants for this purpose are not numerous, and those available from seeds, or that soon make their presence felt, less so. In a very considerable number of instances we find tufted and cushion mounded subjects, over which it is not possible to step in the usual way, and others flowerine at 1 foot or 15 Inches high, all too freely employed, ^\ith the result that the " path " Is in the nature of a " flat rockery." Some of the dwarfest and most suitable are given below, those available from seeds being marked by an asterisk : Arenaria balearica, Campanula muralis, C. pusilla, C. p. alba, C. pulla, C. garganica (three varieties), ♦Dianthus squarrosus, *D. ccesius, *Draba aizoides, Erinus alpinus in all its forms, Helxine Solierolii, Leptinella scariosa, *Linaria pilosa, Mentha Requieni, Myosotis rupicola, Sedumbre\'ifolium, S. corsicum, S. hispanicum glaucum, and Thymus Serpyllum coccineum. At the sides of the walks, where little or no treading is likely, Corydalis lutea, the dwarfest of the Mossy and other Saxifrages, and alpine Dianthi might also appear. Much, naturally, depends upon circumstances. PLANT FOR BEDDING (S. TF.).— If you are contem- plating a bedding plant that could be grown in reserve and transplanted into the intended position, we are afraid we do not recall anything likely to be of service. The Sweet William would not be in flower till late June or early July, and, moreover, does not transplant well in the advanced stages of growth, when flowering-time is approaching. You might, of course, plant with spring bedding subjects in the autumn the Persian Ranunculi in variety, which would afford a useful succession, flowering in your (Ustrict in June, or in December or January the St. Brigid Anemones, which would flower in May and June. These only need dibbling 2 inches deep into the soil, or, by growing the plants in pots, they might be introduced without disturbance when convenient. Or you might effect a sort of compromise by planting, 8 inches or so deep, Emperor, Sir Watkin or other Daffodils perma- nently, and, as surface carpeters, Tufted Pansies of shades distinct from the Violas. By planting the Daffodils In September and the Violas (Tufted Pansies) in October, the beds would be covered during the winter and a good flowering ensured throughout April, May and June. Then, by starting the Begonias early in boxes, giving them plenty of room, these, with the surface cleared of Violas, could be put out practically in bloom. The above are merely sucgestions, and are made ^\^thout knowledge of what bedding plants you employ. If you gave us the names of these and the size of the beds, we might further assist you. PRUNING ANCHUSA (Dion) —The main shoots of Anchusa italica are shortened to dwarfen the plant previous to the expansion of any flowers, the effect of which is that the axillary growths below the parts excised, many of which would othcnvise never shoot, are forced into vigorous g^o^vth, but more in a horizontal than in a vertical direction. The more forward of these, as they exhibit signs of seeding, are also cut back to a new set of growths which issue lower down the stems of these, and so on as long as the vegetative powers of tlie plant are in such vigour as to induce the production of succes- sive axillary growths. The limit is reached accordlnG to the cultural treatment of the Boii, which, if of the best, will continue to the end of the season. It may be of interest to note that there is a comparatively large section of herbaceous plants which can be rendered considerably dwarfer than they naturally are under high-class culti- vation by adopting the above expedient. The uncommon but not unuscful Gypsophila Rokejekii is one such which, f left to Itself, grows out of all proportion to be of benefit n an ordinary herbaceous border. It can be kept quite low by repeated pinching. The varieties of Anthemis tinctoria afford an example of what may be effected to produce a variety just by simple manipulation of tlie plants. Plants left to themselves vill grow to 7 feet or 8 feet in height, and on occasion are useful then. By cutting at the proper stage, plants not exceeding 3 feet in heiglit arc possible; or by planting wide and pegging down the shoots the eamc end is attained. Some of the varieties of Chrysanthemum maximum grow much too tall to be generally useful, but instead of cutting these we prefer to replant annually, the spring planted being much dwarfer than those planted in the autumn. To revert to the question of pegging, Linaria Fanciccii when pegged dowii forms a low mass of lovely colour. Aster acris is perhaps as distinctive pegged as treated in any other way. A. Chmax is another well-known variety that repays growing in this way, and autumn-flowering Chrysanthemums, if pegged at an early stage of growth, also produce striking masses of bloom. But really there is a large number of plants that may readily be made to assume different and distinctive habits of gro\vth by those means. Let us note in conclusion that those plants which become hard in the stem should be cut back previous to that stage. THE GREENHOUSE. FUCHSIA WITH ABNORMAL FLOWERS (0. P.).— It is impossible to state the reason of your Fuchsia pro- ducing such depauperated blooms, though such freaks of Nature are occasionally met with. We have known it occur in several Fuchsias, but never before in the variety (Gertrude Pearson. How best to restore the plant to its normal condition is a somewhat difficult problem, and unless particular interest is attached to it we should be inclined to burn it. Should you. however, desire to give it another chance to mend its ways, we advise you to pick off all flowers and buds and repot, at the same time taking away as much of the old soil as can be done without unduly distressing the roots. Potted in a mixture of loam, leaf-mould and sand, it will soon become estab- lished and commence to grow and flower, when the blossoms may revert to the normal type. On this point, however, there is some doubt, though the experiment may be well worth trying. We much appreciate yo;ir kind remarks re The Garden, as our aim is to render it of value for all classes of gardeners. MISCELLANEOUS. MILLIPEDES ATTACKING MALVAS (RkagaU).— The pest attacking the Malvas and Clarkias appears to be the flattened milhpede, Polydesmus amplanatus. These are usually most abundant when the soil is sour, and may be captured by burying pieces of Potato, with a stick piercing them to mark the sites of the traps, examining them each day and killing the captives. SILVER-LEAF DISEASE (iien£).— There is no fear of the silver-leaf disease spreading from one tree to another while the affected parts are alive. The fungus which causes it fruits on the dead stems, and it is from these that the evil spreads. All affected stems should, therefore, be burned. Stone fruits are most affected, but almost any kind of tree is liable to fall a victim. We have not met with it on Currants or llaspberries. WASHING VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION (G. B. E.). — All vegetables are best washed just before they are staged in the show tent or building. They must be washed just long enough to allow them time to dry before being packed for conveyance to the show. If the latter is close to the gardens where the vegetables are grown and special packing is not necessary, then wash the roots on the morning of the show, as they dry very quickly If they are to be packed, wash Potatoes and roots, dry them, and then wrap each one in clean white paper. A brusli should never be used in preparing vegetables for exhibition. Soak the specimens in water and then sponge them. A syringing is beneficial, especially in the case of Celery and Leeks. NAMES OF PLANTS.— J. P., ScaWy.—nyhhd Tea Kose Princessc de Beam. The other plant is Swainsona canescens. E. A. D. — The Rose is Pharis&cr. Many thanks for your kind remarks. J. C. A. — liose Mme. B^rard. L. Johnston. — Hyoscyamus niger (Henbane). F. T. Coates. — White, Carnation Mrs. Eric Hambro ; buff, Viscountess Ebrington. F. B. M. — 1, Betula lutea ; ^, B. lenta. *** Owing to the Bank Eoliday, this issue had to go to press several days earlier than usual, and consequently many names of plants are held over until our next issue. SOCI ETI ES. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. At the fortnightly meeting held at Vincent Square on Tuesday, the 28th ult., there was a good display of flowers and fruit, but visitors were far from plentiful. Thanks to the efforts of the National Gladiolus Society, a great many non-competitive groups of these beautiful bulbous flowers were staged, the most interesting of all being the beautiful primulinus hybrids. Orchid Committee. Present : J. G. Fowler, Esq. (chairman). Sir Harry Vcitch, and Messrs. James O'Brien, W. Bolton, A. McBcan, T, Armstrong, J. E. ShiU, W. H. Hatcher, Arthur Dye, E. H. Davidson, Gurncy Wilson, Cliarlcs H. Curtis, S. \V. Flory and Kichard Thwaitcs. Messrs. Charlesworth and Co. , Hay ward's Heath , showed very good examples of Odontoglossum Bolfese, Catasetum macrocarpum aurcum, Cattkya Bex, LeeIIo- Cattlcya colmaniana, together with a variety of Cypri- pediunis and Cattleya Pauna, whose buff -colon red, purple- lipped flowers were very beautiful. Prom His Grace the Duke of Marlborough, Blcnlieim Palace, Woodstock, came the fine Vanda cterulea Graci, a very bc-autiful pale blue form. Silver Flora medal. Messrs. Sander and Sons, St. Albans, had nice flowering specimens of Masdevallia Carderi, Anguloa Cliftonii, together vnth Cj-pripedium Franconia superbum, Laelio- Cattleya Hiawatha and Epidendrum radiatum among many things. Mr. J. Gurney Fowler, Pembury, Kent, received a%vards of merit for LEelio-Cattkya Miss Louisa Fowler and Cattleya hardyana rubens, both choice and good. Silver Flora medal. Baron Bruno SchrOder, Englefleld Green, had the fine white Cattleya Astron, an exquisitely beautiful plant. See "New and Bare Plants." Mr. H. Goodson, Putney, showed Oncidium Leopoldii Fairlawn variety, the plant carrying a long raceme of flowers. Mr. B. G. Th^vaites, Chessington, Streatham Hill, had nice examples of Odontioda Thwaitesii (with a spray of rich purple flowers), Odontoglossum Pcseatorei and others. Fruit and Vegetable CosDnrrEE. Present : J. Clieal, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs. W. Bates, Edwin Beckett, A. Grubb, J. Willard, J. Davis, A. W. Metcalfe, J. Jaques, A. Bullock, G. Wythes, P. C. M. Veitch, John Harrison, C. G. A. Nix, A. R. Allan and George Keif. A magniflcent collection of pot-grown fruit trees, com- prising Apples, Pears, Plums, Peaches and Nectarines of the highest excellence, was staged by Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea. The group was arranged on the floor opposite the entrance, and was probably the finest ever staged by this eminent firm. In not a few instances the trees were simply loaded with fruits, at once a demonstration of high cultural skill and a tribute to British horticulture. In all there were about six dozen trees staged, the majority of pyramidal outline ; the others — Peaches, Nectarines and their like — in fan-trained examples, reaching to 8 feet or more across. Of the Plums there were a dozen examples of Jefferson's, four of Kirke's, seven of Early Transparent Gage, literally loaded with fruits ; while such as Green Gage, Red Mirabelle and Oullin's Golden Gage were all represented. Of Pears there were some half-dozen sorts, Durondeau, Williams' Bon Chretien, Souvenir du Congrfis and Louise Bonne of Jersey being some of them. Apples Wealthy, Lady Sudeley and James Grieve, the second named brilliantly coloured, were also noted. Of Peaches there were six trees of Peregrine, two of Vioiette Hative and one of Duke of York ; while the Nectarines found admirable representation in flne examples of Early Rivers, with others of Pineapple, Lord Napier, and Pitmaston Orange. Hence it will be seen that the collection was both good and varied, a fine demonstration of what is possible with the cultural skill which now prevails. A gold Hogg Memorial medal was deservedly awarded. Messrs. S. Spooner and Sons, Hounslow, showed Apples Red Astrachan, White Transparent, Mr. Gladstone, Early White Magnet and Early Victoria. Pear Citron des Carmes was also shown. Floral Committee. Present : H. B. May, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs. C. T. Druery, E. A. Bowles. R. C. Notcutt, James Hudson, F. W. Harvey, J. Green, T. Stevenson, J. W. Moorman, J. F. McLeod, W. Howe, A. Turner, C. Di.xon, J. T. Bennett-Po6, C. E. Shea, C. E. Pearson, W. P. Thomson, W. G. Baker and E. H. Jenkins. From Messrs. James Kelway and Son, Langport, Somerset, came a fine table of Gladioli, the quality of the exhibits finer than we have seen for a long time. Obviously the weather conditions experienced this year have proved congenial to these plants, both the flowers and the spikes being excellent. The group was composed chiefly of gandavensis hybrids, \vith a few others into which primu- linus influence had freely entered. Some good sorts wore John Churchill Craigie (yellow and scarlet), Sir M. W. Ridley (crimson). Countess of Suffolk (crimson, pink and yellow), General Henderson (flamed scarlet and crimson). Yellow Prince, Golden Measure, Golden King (rich yellow with crimson base), Lady Rosemarv Portal (ivorv white) and Mrs. G. W. Willock (pink and white). Golden Girl and Banshee are primulinus hybrids, very beautiful in yellow and bronze pink. Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond, showed a collection of C^losia pyramidaiis in three shades of red and tall and dwarf yellow. A full table was occupied by the admirably grown examples. Silver Banksian medal. Mr. C. Engelmann, Saffron Waldon, was the only exhibitor of Carnations, showing in admirable form sucli as Elektra (orange), Carola, Scarlet Carola, White Wonder and Circe (heliotrope, fancy). Silver Banksian medal. Messrs. Atkinson and Statter, Southampton, showed two semi-circular, tastefully arranged groups of Gladioli on raised stepped staging. The arrangement was artistic in the extreme, and, moreover, displayed this fine garden flower to considerable advantage. The ground colour of the arrangement was grey, the light sprays of Gypsophila associated therewith harmonising beautifully. Some of the leading sorts were Golden King, a centre of this, some fifteen spikes in all, making a glorious display. The variety has deep primrose yellow flowers with crimson base. ' Blotch is scarlet and wiiite, a flne contrast ; Orby, crimson scarlet; Goldfinder. yellow; and Loveliness, flesh white to pink vnth yellow shading, a magnificent variety. Excelsa (pink), Pink Beauty (with crimson blotch), and Armagnac (crimson, white throat) were others noted in a flne lot. Mr. Howard H. Crane, llighgate. N., had a very fine collection of Violas and Violcttas, showing them in his usual style in pans of sand and water. Of the latter, Claribel (pale blue), Forget-me-uot, Rock Orange, Cynthia (mauve), Rock Lemon, Violetta (white) and Neapolitan wore all good and choice. Bronze Banksian medal. «^