LIBRARY
OF THE
MASSACHUSETTS
AGRICULTURAL
COLLEGE
:pcJ
SOURCE. . CcxUe.^-%_-£-u.iOIi s....
Thf Garden.] [Dfxember 26, 1.(^14.
The Garden.]
[DecBMBER 26, IQI-(.
HHNRV MKRRVWEATirKR, J. P.
The O.aKden.]
[December 26, igi.).
AN
Illustrated Weekly Journal
OF
Horticulture in all its Branches.
Founded by W. Robinson in 1871.
Edited by F. W. HARVEY.
VOL. LXXVIII. CHRISTMAS, 1914.
Office: 20, TAVISTOCK STREET, COVENT GARDEN, W.C,
Published by "COUNTRY LIFE," Ltd., 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C, and by
GEORGE NEWNES, Ltd., 8-1 1, Southampton Street, Strand.
31
The Garden f [Ducembkr 2O. igu
T^
Q[l(o
X -^ '^-
THIS VOLUME OF "THH GARDEN"
Is dedicated to
HENRY MERRYWEATMER, J.R
IT is with considerable pleasure that we dedicate this, the seventy-eighth volume of The Garden, to Mr.
Henry Merrj'Aveather. who has devoted a long and strenuous life to horticulture. He was born as
long ago as January 24, 1839. The son of a gentleman's gardener, he spent his earliest days in private
gardens, but at the age of sixteen joined his father in a nursery business which laid the foundation of the
now well-known firm of Messrs. H. Merryweather and Sons, Limited., Southwell, Notts. Early in his career, i.e., in
the year 1858, about the time the first Rose Show was held in St. James's Hall, he made the acquaintance of the late
Dean Hole, who was at that time hon. secretary of the Rose Show, and that commenced a friendship which
became very intimate, and was only se^'erecl by the death of the \-enerable Dean. ^fr. Merrj^veather recalls
with interest a visit paid by Mr. William Robinson (who founded The Garden), Mr. Noel Humphreys and
the late Dean to his nurseries at Southwell, \vhen Mr. Humphreys took a-way with him a verj' fine bloom of
Rose Marechal Niel and wrote a diary of the flower in The Garden somewhere about the early sixties.
One of the most important events of his life was the introduction of Apple Bramley's Seedling, which was
raised in a garden at Southwell. Mr. Merryweather at once realised the va.\\ie of this splendid culinary
Apple, and secured the whole stock. When he first exhibited fruits before the Royal Horticultural Society in
187(1, this variety received an award of merit, and subsequently, in 1883, it received the higher recognition of
,a first-class certificate. The cultivation and improvement of the Rose have always received considerable
attention from our friend, and it is to his enterprise that we owe the b^'autiful Polyantha varieties Jessie
and Phyllis. Although horticulture has naturally been his first love, local affairs have received considerable
attention, and there is scarcely an organisation m and around Southwell that has not benefited by iiis
presence. Two years ago he was appointed a county magistrate, a position that he fills with credit to
himself and the county he represents. In spite of his advancing years, Mr. Merryweather enjoys good health
and is as active as many men are at fifty. Tliat he may long be spared to carrj^ on his good \\'ork is our
earnest wish, in which we feel sure all who lia\'e the honour to know him will heartily join.
Vol. LXXVIII.
" The Cai'dcii." Dcccmhcy iG, njl.).
INDEX
A.
Abutilon, gardi-']i varii-tk^s of, ;il8
Acacii dealbata, 190 ; outtloors, 15,) ;
for a small »ireunhou«o, 89
Acetylene gas refuse, 111
Aconite, the Cilician Winter. 53
Acrostics, 15, 27, 39. 51, 03
A^aricvis comatus, GO-t
Alders, some unconinioii, 193
Allotments, cultivation of, 441
Almond^, plautiufr, for ofTcct, 171
Alpines from seeds; 187 ; planting;, 187 ;
protecting in winter, 31 ; sowing seeds
of, 397 ; the fifty test, 190
AlstneniLrias, tniusplanting, 89
AiiuiraMtluis Dr. Martin, 35fi
Auiuryllis Brlladonua, habitat of, 552 ;
Boliadonna spei-iosa purpurea, 460
Amygdalus persica rosea flore plcno
pendula, 220
Anchusa, pruning, 408
Anchusas, increasing, 433
Annual flowers, work among, 185
Annuals by the pathside, 8 ; colour
effects with, 30, 79, 182 ; for amateurs'
gardens, 148 ; for cutting, 159 ; for
rock sarden, 410; gardening with. 7;
half hardy, 170 ; hardy border of, 214 ;
liints on growing, 70; in rock garden,
170 ; late sowing of hardy, 540 ; to
sow in autumn, 482; six dwarf, 133;
six good, 460 ; with other plants, 137
Anthurium conchiflorum, 196
Antirrhinum, future of the, 376 ; Nelrosc,
220 ; the, 131
Antirrhinums as beddimi plants, 42 ;
four good, 231 ; tall, 142, 106
Apple, a black, 515 ; blossoms, 227 ;
Harry Pring, 536 ; jelly. Crab. 516 ;
Sandling Duchess, 248 ; Winter Eibston,
623
Apples, storing, 438 ; two u'^efui, 438 ;
and Pears, pruning, 586 ; storage of,
530 ; their flavour and pedigree, 595
Aquilegia Stuarlii, 377
Aquilegias in pots. 539
Arabis aubrietioides Trevor Seedling, 220
Arauearia imbricata as firewood, 616
Arches in gardens, 379
Aristolochia moupinensis, 24
Asdepias Douglasii, 427
Ashes, coal, for the garden, 64
Asparagus, cultivation of, 120 ; how to
grow, 208
Asphodels, the Giant, 465, 472
Aspidistra, treatment of, 152
Aspidistras, dividing, 141, 173
Aster Amellus Arethusa, 486; Amellus
King George, 466 ; Cloudy Blue, 512 ;
disease, 167, 191, 238; a preventive
for, 146; vimineus Lovely, 486 ;
Purple Prince, 512 ; the, as a hardy
annual, 434
Asters, China, in the woodland, 132
Aubriotias in the spring. 598
Aueuba, cultivation and propagation
of, 197
Auricula Gordon Dou'-das, 196 ; Majestic,
248
Auriruias from seed, 221 ; hints on, 100 ;
how to repot, 235; notes on, 3, 67,
117, 167, 235, 294, 339, 407, 458;
l)reparing, for exhibition, 167
Azaleas, hardy, 686
Bamboos', planting. 237
Bananas, cultivation of, 478
Baskets, trug, 486
Beans, French, awards to, 439
Bed, a grey and blue, 479
Bedding, spring, hints on, 503. 534
Beds and borders for spring flowers, 467
Bee, leaf-cutting, among Pelargoniums,
387 ; and Hoses, 398
Beetroot, lifting and storing, 485
ijX3 Begonia Mrs. Harry Barton, 536
Begonias, tubrrouw, raising from si'cd, 32 ;
winter-flowering, 542
Belladonna Lilies. 501 ; in Irrhind, 502
Borberis dulcis. 423
Blackberry Himalayan Giani, 466
Bog garden, the, and its formation, 565
Books—
" Albiiry Park I'rers and Shrubs," 70
' " An Artist in (iaidrn Plaiuiinu." 163
" Colour Standards and NoTucncla-
ture," 76
•' My Garden in Spring," 164
National Dahlia Society's Supplement,,
549
" Recent Investigations on Apple Scab,"
536
" Saxifrages," 549
"The Kose Annual," 211
" The Sweet Pea Annual," 77
Border, plants for edging a, 28 ; the
herbaceous, how to make it, 10, 19, 36,
44, 59. 71
llordiTs. Inrbaceous, how to make, 554;
])huitin'_'. 571
lioronia megastigma, treatment of, 188
Bowling-greens, making, 92
Bramble, a beautiful white-stemmed,
16, 17. 573
lirasso-Cattliya Pink Pearl, 601
Brouni, the early -flowering, 482 ; the
Jfount Ktna, :'.7-"i
Brooms, the best hardy, 530 ; two beauti-
ful, 241
Browallia speciosa major, 137
Buddh^ia Colvillei flowering at Christ-
mas, 19 ; flowering in autumn, 540 ;
flowering in October, 515 ; foliagi',
earwigs eating, 90
Bulb notes, 454
Bulbs for present planting. 524 ; for
spring planting, 139, 191. 215, 226 ;
for the rock garden, 505 ; in grass,
manuring, 176; in the rock garden,
457 ; ordering, 436 ; planting forced,
141 ; planting in grass, 453 ; why
forced, fail, 104
Butcher's Broom, tlie, 615
Calanthes, the, 57
(Jalochortus maweanus, 415
Campanula cenisia alba, 220 ; excisa, 21 ;
uarganica W. H. Paine, 356 ; Noi man
Grove, 466 ; Moysii, 22
Campanulas, the, 87
Canarina campanulata, 71
Candytufts, the shrubby, 410
Cannas, flowering, 436
Carnation Chelsea, 356 , Gordon Douglas,
356 ; Lady Hermione, 114 ; Mrs, F, G.
Beahng, 404 ; Pink Sensation, 581 ;
Princess Dagmar, 512 ; Society's Show,
3S4 ; Wivelsfield White, 536
Carnations, deterioration of, 153 ; notes
on, 24, 96, 155, 241, 315, 355, 364, 411,
464, 517, 595 ; Perpetual-flowering, for
bedding, 167, 227 ; propagating, 540,
564, 585 ; raising, from seed, 155
Carpentaria californica, 23 ; in Ko^s-
shire, 154
Carrots sown in November, 574
Citalogue, the ideal, 611
Catalpa bignonioides, 578
Caterpillars on Cabbage and Goose-
berries, 102
Cattlrya Antiope Brockenhurst variety,
572"; Astron, 404, 558 ; hardyana
rubens, 404 ; iridescens aurifera, 466 ;
Neleus Sunspot, 558 ; Princess Royal,
512 ; Khoda Fowler's variety, 512 ;
Sybil variety Lord Kitchener, 466
Ceanothus Gloirc de Versailles as a pot
plant, 55
Ceanothuses in pots, 480
Calastrus articulatus, 623
Cherries, ornamental-flowered, 227
Cherry, a good Winter, 593
Chicory, how to use, 537
Cliini(iri;uitlius fragrans, 58
Cliionodo.sa, disease on, 215, 228 ; sar-
dcnsis, 574
Chionodoxas, established bulbs of, 202.
215, 239; newly planted, 226
Choisya ternata in Scotland, 422
Christmas Koses, dividing, 461 ; and
Lenten, 618
Clirysanthenuim Ca])tain Fox, 558 ; East-
gate Gem, 573; Elegance, 3; James
Stredwick, 536; I^a Negresse, 558:
Meudon, 581 ; Afollir Godfrey, 601 ;
Mrs, J. Gibson, 558 ; Richmond, 623 ;
Sir Tony, 581 ; W. Kigby, 536
Clirysanthemums, early flowering, 474 ;
trials of, 526, 591 : hardy, for November,
99; notes tm, 31, 71, 123, 183, 275.
319, 380, ;31, 585; November, 18;
taking buds of, 417 ; top-dressing and
feeding, 463
Cinirch decorations ^it Cluistmas, origin
and meaning of, 621
Cineraria maritima, 422
Cistus eorbariensis, 78; japonica. 48; the
Gum. 616
Clematis Armandii, 196; montana on a
Spruce, 464; montana superba, 220;
Spooneri, 490 ; the most beautiful, 598 ;
the first to flower, 141
Climbers for large tries, 29 ; over farm
buildings, 505
Clivia miniata, fine strain of. 189
Cob»ea, the genus, 391
! Cocoa pods at Kew, 177
: Collins, W., the late, 16
Colour effects in the garden, 184
Columbine, the blue Siberian, 414
I Columbines, the, 100
; Columnea glabra major, 196
i Conifers, golden-ieaved, for winter effects,
! 620
Copped Hall, garden at, 106
Coronilla glanca outdoors, 203
Corydalis thalictrifolia, 3
Cotoneaster applanata, 23
Crataigu^ Carri^rei, 611
Crinnm Powellii, how to plant, 594, 610
Crocus Sieberi, 53, 113; susianus, 567,
594 ; versicolor, 455
Crocuses, in grass. 147 ; of autumn and
Avinter, 485; yellow, and sparrows, 113,
143, 179
Cupressus obtnsa Crippsii, 563
Cuttings with heels, 594
Cvclanien, hardy, 127; how to grow,
393 ; Mrs. Ellen Greaves, 48 ; neapoli-
tanum and its seeds, 374
Cypripedium fairrieannra, 101 ; nivana,
558
D.
Daffodil, an early, 125 ; Crystalline, 207 ;
Florist's Favourite, 207 ; in Australia
and New Zealand, 414 ; is the, a
florists' flower ? 63,75, 112, 151; Maid
of Honour, 207 ; Jlidas, 208 ; names,
registration of, 168; notes, 43. 94, 115,
151, 160, 168, 187, 199, 206, 216,
231, 246 ; notes and queries, 460 ;
Royal Sovereign, 201 ; the, in Australia
and New Zealand, 400 ; the, in New
Zealand, 79 ; The Marquis, 207 ; the
Midland Society's Show, 224 ; Tin-
toretto, 207 ; Vacuna, 208 ; Vauban,
207 ; White Maximus, 207
Daffodils at Forced Bulb Sh«w, 160 ;
f Barr Cup for, 214 ; for pots, 452 ;
for tlie rockery, 125 ; in grass, 390 ;
in New Zealand, 100 ; naming of, 387 ;
not flowering, 247 ; past history of,
199 ; the new Poetaz, 151 ; with
lasting qualities, 202, 214; eighteen,
with lasting qualities, 226
Dahlia, a good single, 501 ; Barbara
Purier, 486; Canopus, 512; Deveron,
536
Dalilia Eden. 466; Etoile Uoh-, 460;
Kismet, 466; Lovely, J66 ; j.ord
Kitchener, 486 ; Lowfi
lacr, 28 ; grtod for
loreing, 577 ; hardy, lor grriMdmiisr,
169 ; iirnning ornannntal, 560
Shrubhery borders in winter,- 606
Slur, tbe'iloublc-Howered, 2(11
Shigs, liuw tu trap. 203
Snapdragon, tlie, 131
Snowdrop, a little-known, 155 ; an
autumn, 551 ; the, 500
Snowdrops and hardy Ferns, 77
Snow, Glory of the, 555
Solomon's Seal as a pot plant, 101
Soot as liquid manure, 64, 173 ; the
vahie of, 188
Sophora Tree, the Chinese, 441
Mophro-Cattleya Xovember, 581
Sophro-Laplia felieia Fowler's Variety, 558
Sparaxis King Georgr V., 12tt
Spiraea lindleyana. hardiness of, 120
Spiraeas, shrubby, 82
Sternbergia hitea angustifuha. .593
Stock, Beauty of Xicp. 118; the Nighl-
seented. 177. 397
Stocks, the pevenuial, 48
Stone, preserving, 203
Stonework, to age, 29
Strawberries, alpine;, 249, 565
Strawberry beds, making new, 403 ;
* fruits in December, 17
Sugar Corn, 421
Sunflower, a new, 183
Sunk garden, design for, 223
Swot Corn as a vegetable, 31
Sweet Pea diseases, 79, 102, 442 ; growing
considered. 503 ; hints for beginniTs,
85; history, 471; King White, 83;
Mrs. Hugh Wormald. 356; National
Soc-iety's annual meeting
show.
383 ; trials and novelties, 469; notes on,
51, 140, 199. 239, 306, :HiH, 444; the.
in the flower garden, 9 ; The President.
356
Sweet Peas, autumu sowing of, 444 ;
)ll^■^t whitr. si^arlct and niau\e, MS ;
rla^^siticatiou uf, 87; early Muwi-riiig.
55 ; foi' rutting, 82 ; liints un -growing.
.SO; ill large pots, 81; in pots. 607;
in tubs. 200 ; staking. 84
Sweet Williams, 209
Syringa reflexa, 248
T.
Table decorations, lightness in, 386
I'emperatc House at Kew, how the, was
completed, 551
Tennis court, liow to make a dry, 501 :
mo"^s on. 564 ; treatment of. ,592
Tborus. iati'-truiting, ,593
Tobaccu Plants, competition for, 449
Tomato chutney, ripe, 480 ; diseas4's
of, 377 ; fruits not cnlourrng, 480 ;
pickle, greeTi, 502
Tomatoes, early, 49; eelworni in, ^i^n
Torch Lily, a beautiful, 421 ; a late-
flowering, ,583
Tree, a, for a moist situation, 65; stump,
to kill, 176, 571 : the Maidenhair, 607;
the Wig or Smoke, 385
Trees and shrubs for wind screens, 61 ;
fragrant-leaved, 20 ; transplanting large,
68 ; variegated, 551 ; damaged by
gale, 153; planting under large, 511;
pruning avenue, 28 ; pruinng street,
.113 ; t/wo beautifvil flowi-ring. 242
Trenching, the value of, 619
Trillium rivale, 172
Tritelria uuiflora as a pot plant, 167
Tulip .bunv. 179; the Water Lily. 506
TnhjKi steliata. 220
Tulips after fluwi-riiig. 1^13: Darwin.
452 ; for tin; \rw Vt:ir. 39 ; e;irlv.
454: for forcing, 3M9 ; fur <-nltiu'Li.
432; in beds. 483; Alav-Iluweriui:.
tri.'ils of, 441; the, hrcakiug (.f. 479:
when to i)lant, 471, 49(1, 516, 528, 552
Valerian, thelled, as a wall plant, 608
Vegetable growing, fallacies about, 471 ;
Marrow.^, how to grow, 233 ; seeds for
spring sowing, 15 ; seeds, selection of.
69
Veg(!tables and salads, winter, 463 ;
improving ground for. 429 ; notes on,
21, 87, 1'35. 163. 20m, 248, :!20, :W2.
437. 533. 56,4, 603 : storing of, 424
Verbasfums. the. 435, 450
Veronica spicata. 157
Veronicas, shrubby, in winter, 7
Viburnums, notes on, 4":'.
Vine, aerial roots on, 236
Vines, disbudding ami tying. I4it: in
small greenhouse, 561 ; niraly bug on.
67; pruning outdoor, 29; renovating
old, 39; restorini.' to health, 543
Viola gracilis, 237
Violas, bedding, 429; judging exhibition.
104; notes on. 197 : trial of, 431
Violet Princess of Wale". 164
Violets for market, 40 ; in the open, 96 ;
spring treatment of. 177; summ<'r
treatment of, 373; two bi-autiful, 3X6
Violettas, 128
Vitis Tlumisonii, 564
Walk, plants for paved, 176
Walks, i.iauts for flagged. 408
Walllluw'.'rs in DiTi-niher. 583; raising.
froni Mvds, 249
Wall gardens aiul plants. 147; plants.
easdy grown, 121 ; plants fur, I7ti
Walls, dry, in summer ami winl<-r. 519;
planting in dry, 484 ; planting old, 441
Walnuts, cultivation of, 75
Watsonia coccinea, 445
Weeds as foliage, 616
Willow, seedlings of, 539
Windflower, Japanese, 475
Window, plants for, 28
Wind screens in gardens, 553
Witch Hazels. 45
Wood, plants for l^ank in, 383
Yews and churcbyai'ds, 78
Ypres, horticulture in, 593
Yuccas, advice on, 571
ILLUSTRATIONS.
A.
/F.thionema Warlcy Hybrid, 342
Aiiaricus comatus,'604"
Almonds with dark-lcavcd shrubs, 171
AInus flrjna, catkins of, 193 ; Oregoua,
catkins of. 192
Alpines on Mr. Correvon's wall, 147
Audrosace primuloides in a Devonshire
garden, 289
Anemone angnlosa, 180: Pulsatilla alba,
213
Anemones, Japanese, by the waterside,
475
Angrrreum sesquipedale, 527
Annuals, plan of border for, 214
Antirrhinum Nelrose, 220
Antirrliinums in a dry wall, 484
Apple King Harry, 438 ; Lane's Prince
Albert, tree of, 555; Stirling Castle,
438 ; the Japanese Crab, 243
Aquilegia glandulosa, 414; Stuartii, 378
Arabis on roadside wall, 121
Arch spanning garden path, 109
Arenaria balearica, 544
Arnebia eehioidcs, 18
Asparagus, how to raise and grow, 209
Asperula suberosa, 277
Aspidistras, dividing and repotting, 173
Aster Amellus King George, 466 ; fruti-
cosus, 219 ; \imineus Lovely, 483
Asters, single Chinese, in woodland, 133
Anbrietia in the rock garden, 598
Aucuba, how to propagate, 197
Auricula Gordon Douglas, 218
Azalea garden at Kew, 587
B.
Bamboo garden at Kew, winter scene in,
619
Barrel, an old, planted with hardv flowers,
333
Baskets, making garden, 486
Bedding plants, propagation of, 447
Beds and borders, plans for spring, 467
Bee, the leaf-cutting. Rose leaves attacked
by, 398
Begonia Mrs. Harrv Barton, 536 ; Nancv.
102
Begonias slunvn bv Messrs. Blaekmore and
Lantrdou at Clu-l^ea. 266
Belliuni bcllidioides, 397
Bcrberis Polyantha, 32 ; stcnophylla by
the waterside, 256
Bletchley Park, rock garden by lakeside
at, 330 ; stone steps at, 331 ; sunk
garden at, 328
Border, a, of flowers and shrubs, 554
Borders, edgings for, 10; how to plant,
554 ; plans for, 60
Bowling greens, how to make, 92
Brasso-Cattleya Pink Pear!, 601
Broccoli Christmas ^^^^ite, 425
Buddleia variabilis veitehiana, 528
C.
Calceolarias, Messrs. Webb and Sons', at
Chebea. 267
Calocbortiis maweanus, 415
CampaTiula piilla, 416
Cauariua eanipanulata, 71
Candytuft betwei^n Darwin Tulips, 136
Canna seedlings, 149
Carnation Gordon Douglas, 356 ; repotting
a young, 97 ; Salmon King, 24
Carrot New Bed Intermediate, 424
Catalpa bignonioidcs, seed-pods of, 578
Catkins of Alnus, 192
Celery and Lcelts, raising. 321
Cerastium tomcntosum, 337
Cherry, a double-flowered, 242; Kentish
Bigarrcau, 596
Chimonanthus fragrans grandiflora, 59
Chionanthus virginicu, 364
Chionodoxa Lucilise, 153
Choisya ternata, 540
Chrysanthemums, early flowering, 474;
taking buds of, 417
Cistus corbariensis, 58; ladauifcrus, 619;
Loretii, 428, 539
Clematis Armandri, 204; grata grandi-
denta, 392 ; montana, growing over
Spruce tree, 464 ; on an old barn, 505 ;
over cottage doorway, 306
Copped Hall, thi- rock garden at, 107
Coprinus comatus, 604
Cornns Xnttallii, 290
Coronilla glauca growing outdoors, 326
Cottage, an old. 9
Crocus versicolor, 457
Crocuses naturalised under trees, 146;
on grassy mounds, 455
Cucumbers in cold frame, 309
Cyclamen, bow to grow, 393 ; Mrs. L. M.
Greaves, 481
Gj'pripedium Calceolus, 302 ; Desdemona,
72 ; montana, 272 : ventricosum, 272
Cyrilla racemifiora, 144
Cytisus albus, 530 ; kewensis, 531 ;
praicox, 73, 482 ; prjeeox and albus,
241 ; by the waterside, 294 ; purgans
among hardy Ferns, 257
Dalfodil show in a schoolroom, 235
Dahlia Canopus, 512
Daisies, dividing double, 249
Dendromecon rigidum, 183
Dianthus callizonus, 376 : Duchess of
Fife. 367 ; neglectus, 377 ; plumarius,
366 ; Spencer Bickham, 353
Dracsena, "ringing" a, 149
Ecbinops sphseroccphalus, 597
Echium callithyrsum at Bosahan, 574
Eremuri, a colony of seedling, 465
Eremurus himalaicus, seedlings of, :;
robustus, 313
Rrica carnca, 101, 158 ; Cavendishii, 50:> ;
lusitanica, 42 ; mediterranea hybrida.
6; Melanthcra. 118; vagans alba. 145
Erigerou Asa Gray. 340 ; mucionatns. 77
Erodiimi trichomana-folium. 341
Escallonia montc\iden£is, 515 ; philippi-
ana, 46
Fern, a beautiful new British, 558
Ferns, Tree, at Bosahan. .564
Flax, the New Zealand, at Ramsey, 480
Flower-beds, designs for spring, 534 ;
plans for summer, 297 ; spring, at
Bournemouth. 251 ; borders in kitchen
garden at Harlcyford, 379; borders in
the Spcak.'r's garden, 443
Flowers, a border of mixed, in Dr. Wright's
garden, 4 : berb,i,ceous, in a Sussex
garden, 20
Forsythia suspen-sa, 182
Fothergilla major, 229
Frasera spcciosa, 56
Frcesia Excelsior. 123
Freesias, how to force. 405
Fritillaria porsica. 451
Fruit gatherer, a simph^ home-made, 476 :
store, plan of a, 423 ; trei-s, summer
pruning of, 357
Funkia tardiflora. .584
Galanthus octobrensis. 551
Galtonia candicans, 94
Garden, a paved, at Harleyford, 365 ;
house, Messrs. R. Wallace's, at Chelsea,
260; Messrs Carter and Co.'s formal,
at Oielsea, 261 ; plan of a terrace, for
colour effect, 184 ; plan of a villa,
97 ; prize designs for, 507, 508, 509.
510, 520, 521, 532, 533, 546 ; tin- new
sunk, at Sxitton I'Jacc, 569; view in a
reader's, 369
INDEX
[" Tlir Gardrii." DiTcmhcr 2C). tot.i.
Gardens, sites for small. 245
Garrya elliptica in the- Botanic Garden.
Camhridrje, 114; catkins of, 617
Giiilisjo biloba, 607
Gladiolus Eldorado, :JS1
Godctias and white Alyssuni used as
edgings, 8
Grape Hyacinths as a carpet, 511
Grapes, a fine crop of Black Hamburgh, 12
Grass of Parnassus. 450
Giiiineias on mafiiii of pool, liiii
H.
ITalierlea Ferdinandii folmrgii. 2,S1
llanianielis mollis, 45; virgiiiica. 45
Harriss. Mr, V... portrait of, 201
Heath L'arden. a, on hillside, 1:11
Helianthiinnms. a colony of, 557
Hi-lliborus orieiit.alis. 95
ll.ill'ord, Lieutenant -Colonel Sir Georse,
portrait of, 253
Holly, a flue weeping, 621
Hollyhocks from seeds, 249
Houseleek, the Cobweb, 175 ; the Fringed
47
Hyacinths and Narcissi, how to force,
; trpowing in fibre, 501
Iris border al Claiidoii Park. :'.01 ; Cantab.
105; flav.se.iis, 2:'.u ; Gobi <'ies1 , 2«5 ;
kevigata .alba. :t20 ; l..-iieol hini, a new
llcgelio-Cyehis. 24S ; Mars. :io,>s : luiiuila.
225 ; siislana, 440
Irises .Tapanese. at Holland House. Show,
;!55 ; at Wisley, :lflO. :ini ; by the water-
side," 410
Ivy on chains, 13 ; under a large tree, 509
K.
Keelile, Professor, portrait of, 141
l^nipliofia eauleseen.s, 502
L.
Lachenalias, a potful of, 154
Lavender and Pinks, borders of, 142 :
Cotton, the grey-leaved, 21
Lawrence, Sir Trevor, portrait of. 16
Leiicoium vernum at Wisl'^v, 132
f.i-wisia Mnw.Uii, 400
LilioceUrils (leeiirreiis. 586
Lilac .Marie Legraye. 169
Lilies, JIadonna. 409; wild r.illadniiiiii,
552
l.ilinm nepalense, 159
Lilv pool and steps, 163
Lit'hospermum prostratnm Heavenly Blue,
237
Lockinge, a -streamside view at, lOj ;
a waterside garden at, 545 ; formal
tlower-bcds at, 293 ; the rock garden
at, 292
Lowrher, the Right Hon, .Tauu's \\ .,
portrait of. 325
Luculia gratissima. 623
Lupines in a dry wall, 4s:5
Lupiims polypliylliis, 128, 008
M.
.\fagnoUa glauea, 378; salicifolia, 196 ;
stellata, 117
Maple. Japanese, 426
Marrows, how to grow. 233 ; \'egetable,
collection of hybrid, 516
Mawley, Mr. E., portrait of, 605
Meconopsis integrifolia, 217 ; siauata
latifolia. 240
Melon trial at Wisley, 439
.Miltonia vexillaria llev, W. Wilks, 380
.Moth, larva of the Leopard. 166
.Mushrooms on old hot-bed, 273
Myosotis alpe.stris, 296 ; Kiitli Kiselier,
'238
N.
Xareissiis P,arrii conspicuus. 45.S ; Biilbo-
eodium eitrinus, 1,89; Crystalline, 208;
eyelainiiiiiis, 113; Florists' Favourite.
232 ; moseliatus of Haworth, 89 ;
J[rs, 1), V. W.St, 401 ; Mrs. Ernst H,
Krelage, 224 ; Kingdove. 246 ; Rubel-
lite, 166 ; White Knight, 181 ; W. P,
.Milner. 148
Nemesia Marsden Jones' strain. 381
Nemesias in a iNFidland garden. 43;i
Nepeta Mussinii. 518
Nymphiiea Mirliacea albida, 373
Odontoglossnm Colossus, 1'20
Olearia Haaslii. 473; stellulata. 3,50
Onion Keeord, 425
oreliids. raisinir from seed. 221
OstrowsUia ma'-'iiifna, 374
Paeonia Golden Harvest, 332 ; lobata, 344
Paphinia eristata. 33
Parsnip Tender and True, 424
Fasgue-f.owrr, the white. 213
Pear Charles laie-st, tree of. 566 ; Louise
Bonne of Jcrsiy, 583 ; tree, fan-shaped.
37 ; to cover brick pillar, 577
Pears, double-stemmed cordon, 576
Pelargonium Mine. Crouss(: in vases, 441
Pentstemons, a bed of, 5
Phlox Hanny Ptleidcrer, 461 ; how to
plant, 19 ; Newry Seedling, 329
Phloxes, herbaceous borders of, 5
Pinks, seedling, in dry wall, 579
Plans of kitchen garden, 25
Plant prepared for transplantation, 44
Plants, propai^ation of herbaceous, 36
Polemonium Biehardsonii album, 616
Polygonum afflne at Wisley, 70
Poplars, young, as a wind screen, 61
Pot used* for making Kose ointment, 386
Primula .algida, 180; denticiilata alba,
165; farinosa, 282; hirsuta nivea in
a moraiiu!, 314; japonica alba, 280;
at Wisley. 258; Juliif. 194; Mrs.
];erkeley.'22 ; group of, 119 ; obeonica
shown by Messrs. Sutton at Chelsea,
265; liu'sbyi, 388; secunditlora, 284;
sibirica. 412 ; sulfrutcsccns, :!89
Priimis acida dumosa. 201 ; Avium, 242 ;
Cerasus Rhexii fl,-pl., 228 ; , Pissardii
blirieana tl.-pl,, 203; triflora, 195
Pvriis tloribunda, 243
Q.
liueen Alexandra at Clielsea Show, 259
Ranunculus Matthewsii, 2
Rhododendron campvloearinim, 573 ;
ehartophyllnm. ;304 ; intricatum. 190;
Lnderi Pink Diamond. '247 ; .Moupense.
96 ; Rosy Bell, 231 ; sideroiihylhim,
316 ; viinlianens(\ 317
Rhus Cot inns, 606
Ribes Brockli-bankii, 311
Rock garden, a June scene in a, 318 ;
Messrs, Pulham's, at Chelsea, 262 ;
JCessrs, K, Wallace's, at Chelsea, 202;
.\bssrs, Whitelegg and Page's, at
Chelsea, 263 : scene in September.
445 ; the Speaker's, 463
Hosa mosehat.i alba .at Campsca Ashe.
442
Rose Amateur Teyssier, 479 ; arch, 497 ;
Augustus Hartinan, 368; a wi'cpiug
standard, at Hampstead, 490 ; Climbing
>tme. .Melanie Soupert, 66; Climbing
Sunburst, 492; Dolly Varden, 491;
Entente Cordiale. 156 ; Florence For-
rester, 496 ; Gloire de Dijon and
Clematises on a pergola, 556 ; Gustave
Regis, 385 ; lona Herdman, 23 ; James
Coey, 542 ; Majestic, 381 ; Margaret
Dixon Hamill, 368 ; Miss Cynthia
Forde. 361 ; Mrs, Bertram Walker,
368; Jtrs, Charles Russell, 493;
Nerissa, 568 ; Pink Pearl. 354 ; Prince
IJharming, 215 ; Queen of Fragrance.
352 ; The Dawson. 422 ; William Allen
Richardson, 489
Roses a garden of. 522 ; ami nelphininms
at Surbiton Hill, 495; P.anksian, 588;
gathering, for Prince of Wales' Fund,
402; how to bud, :t45 ; how to priinr,
109; over ,\p]ile tree, 0'20 ; rambler
and ilwart. Ill eonjiiiietioii,494 ; raiiililer,
and lerliae.i.iis llowers, 5,sl9 ; slmwii by
.Messrs, William Paul at Chelsea, 264
Salvia farinacea, 226
Saponaria oeymoides, 319, 593
Saxifraga biirscriana Gloria, 81 ; bur-
scriana with over three hundred blooms,
116 : Cotyledon pyramidalis, 349 ;
decipiens, 271 ; Fortnnei, 564 ; Haagei,
170 ; media, 108 ; Mossy, covered
with fro.st. 54; oppositifolia, 57
Schizanthus grown from seesrs, I'.arrat Chelsea. 268
Valerian, the Red, 609
Vegetables, collection of. 581
Verbascum Chaixii, 435; olympicnm. 436
Veronica maerocarpa flowering in Deeeni-
ber. 7 ; rupi-stris, 161 ; si)icata, 157
Viburnum Carlesii, 413; plieatum. 427.
472 ; rh>'tidophylluiu, 283
Viola, a seedling." in rock garden. 341 :
cornuta alba, 449; Mavourneen. exhi-
bition bloom of, 104
Violas with vonng Hawthorn shoots, 104
Violetta, a seedling. 129
Walileiibergia serjiyltifolia major, :138
Wall, a dry, in sninmer, 519 : garden in
Devonshire. :107
Wallllowers. raising, from see.N. 249
\\'as|i.,' nest on Rlmdudeiidroii shoot, 362
Water Lilie-, grouping of choiee, 207 ;
]. hinting, 200
Water Lilv. a seedling. 205; pool in a
villa garden, 369
Well-head iilanted with alpines, 254
Wistaria growing over a iiraiiary. 504
Yew hedge at back of border, 10
Yews, an avenue of ancient, 78
Yiicea flaecida, 433
Yticcas in midwinter, 618
COLOURED PLATES.
Annuals, borders of, at Westwood,
Tilehurst, 7
Antirrhinums, four good, 231
Auriculas, three alpine, 339
Higonia King George V,, 32
t'ariiation Gorgeous, 132
Coliimbinis, some new, 106
liatlixlils, three good, 455
Lilacs, two Ijeautiful, 413
Xerines, two new, 258
Rhododendron intricatum, 294
Roscoeas, three, 159
Rose garden at Hallingbury Place, 317
Rose Red Letter Day, 204
Roses, thri'e good garden, 494
Scabiosa eaucasiea magniflca. 5.S
Spring seem*, a, at Kew, 390
Siintlower, Sutton's New, 18:1
Sweet Peas, rtve good, 8:1
I'elili >p,eies, three, 367
■■.- «jfe»^
GARDEN.
Kf
— ySS>=^^0}i-
J^^^
2198.
LXXVIII
January 3, 1914.
CONTBNTS.
Notes oe the Week l
Correspondence
Plants flowering late 2
Corydalis thalictti-
JoUa 3
The Horseshoe Fern 3
Chrysanthemum Ele-
gance '^
Forthcoming events . . 3
Which is the Guernsey
LUy? i
Seasonable notes on
Auriculas . . . . ^
Phloxes and Pentste-
mons for large and
small gardens . . 4
[N A Hampshire Garden
Some of the newer
decorative Koses +
Rose-growing in town
gardens 5
A hardy winter-flower-
ing Heath fi
Some good evergreen
hedge plants . . . . 6
Shrubby Veronicas
flowering in winter 7
Coloured Plate
Gardening with
annuals 7
Annuals by the path-
side S
A cottage home in
Somerset . . . . 9
A beautiful climbing
annual 8
The Sweet Pea in the
flower garden . . . . 9
THE HEREACr.OnS OR MIXED
border
How to make and
maintain it . .
Winter treatment of
lawn tennis courts . .
Hints on pruning and
planting Grape
Vines
Gardening for Beginners
Ivies for low fences,
rustic trellis and
screens . . . . 13
Gardening of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens
For Northern gar-
dens
Vegetable seeds for
spring and succes-
sional sowing . .
Gardening Acrostics
Obituary
10
11
12
ILiIiUSXRATIONS.
Ranunculus Matthewsii in New Zealand 2
A border of mixed flowers at Romford 4
A full bed of well-grown Pentstemons 5
Borders of herbaceous Phloxes in a small garden . . 5
A beautiful winter-flowering Heath 6
Veronica macrocarpa flowering in December . . . . 7
Gardening with annuals Coloured plate
Godetias and white Alyssum used as edgings . . . . 8
An old thatched cottage, with garden, in Somersetshire 9
A Yew hedge at back of border 10
Edgings for herbaceous or naixed borders 10
Plan of single and double lawn tennis courts . . . . 11
A fine crop of Black Hamburgh Grapes 12
Ivies for low fences, rustic trellis and screens . . . . 13
The late Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart 16
EDITORIAL! NOTICES.
Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
The Editor welcomes -photographs, articles and notes,
but he will not be responsible for their safe, return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.
As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction he plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo^
rjrapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.
The Editor unll not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions ivhich he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence thai an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden teill alone
be recognised as acceptance.
Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Corent Garden, W.C,
To Our Readers. — With this issue a new volume
of The Garden and a new year commence. It is
with pleasure that we look back upon the year
that has closed and recall the good feeling that con-
tinues to exist between Editor and readers. To
those who have assisted us in making The Garden
better known, and those who have so kindly sent
us notes and photographs of interest, we tender
our best thanks. We fully realise that with this
assistance we are enabled to maintain that high
standard which is inseparably associated with
The Garde.n. In our issue of December 20
we gave a brief summary of the good things
that we have in store for readers, and it is
with every confidence that we look forward to
1914. The year that has just closed has been a
good one for us, and we hope that it has been
a good year for our readers. Many have sought
advice on gardening difi&culties of diverse
kinds, and it has been a great pleasure to
assist them. We hope many more will write
to us during the present year of their gardening
successes as well as their failures. We also feel
that thanks are due to advertisers who have
used our columns during the past year, and hope
that readers will continue to support them as
they have in the past. Every care is taken to
admit advertisements of only reliable firms. To all
we wish every happiness and success during the
year that has just dawned.
The Preservation of Thatched Roofs.— Those 1
who travel in the country districts must often ]
lament the passing of the thatched roofs that I
used to be almost imiversally employed for cottages, ]
bams, stables and other outbuildings. These '
had the merit of fitting well into the landscape, 1
were cool in summer and warm in winter. Now,
galvanised iron, with all its hideousness and other 1
disadvantages, is largely employed. There is a
movement on foot to do all that is possibe t'l pre-
serve thatched roofs, and those who are iuteiested
in the subject should write to Mr. L. Mark Ken-
naway, St. Helens, Teignmouth. If an object- I
lesson of the suitability of thatched roofs for I
country districts is needed, turn to the illustration
on page g, and imagine the old cottage shown
there has a galvanised iron or slate roof. j
An Attractive Autumn-Flowering Evergreen 1
Shrub. — Though perhaps more familiar as a pot I
plant in England south of the Thames and in the
West, Aralia japonica, or Aralia Sieboldii as it is
also named, passes through most winters outside
uninjured. Flowering usually during October,
the large panicles of creamy white flowers form
quite a distinct and attractive feature at this season.
Their beauty is also considerably enhanced by
the large, fan-shaped, rich green leaves. It is
quite a good evergreen for the town and suburban
garden, so that when plants grovring in pots become
too large for the living-room and small greenhouse,
or lose their bottom leaves, it is worth while planting
them outside. Aralia japonica is a very popular
plant in the florists' shops, being commonly,
though erroneously, sold as the Castor Oil Plant,
a name which really belongs to Ricinus communis.
It may be readily raised from seeds, which will
be found listed in most seed catalogues.
An Ornamental Fruiting Thorn.— -Apart from
their flowers, the majority of the Thorns are very
ornamental when in fruit. Crataegus Carriferei is
one of the best. Conspicuous as it is when in
flower, it is more so when it is bearmg its large,
orange-coloured fniits. At the present time it
is quite an object of beauty, and this is all the
more noticeable as it is practically the only one
left, the others having been stripped by birds.
Probably the fruits of this one are not so palatable
to them.
The Value of Beech Hedges.— Hedges are used
for many purposes, and there are a host of plants
suitable for making them, according to their
situation ; but few subjects are n-.ore effective at
the present time than a well-grown Beech hedge.
In a dwarf state the leaves of Beech remain on,
and for that reason they are valuable as a
protection for plants from cold winds, as well as
giving a rustic and somewhat warm appearance
by their brown, dry leaves during the dark dull
days of winter.
Retarding Fruit Blossom. — In order to retard
the flowering period of such trees as Nectarines,
Peaches and .■\pricots, it is a good method to
withdraw the nails anJ shreds, or ties, so as to
liberate the branch lets from the influence of the
brick walls, which conserve and radiate the warmth
of the Sim's rays. By exercise of timely attention
in the matter, it increases the prospects of securing
crops of fruit from unprotected trees upon walls.
The trees can be nailed or tied up again a week or
two before the flowers begin to open. If the old
nails and shre;ls which are removed are subjected
to fire, and placed in a sieve when cool, the nails
can be easily separated from the ashes and can be
used again.
Marram Grass for Paper-Making.— The current
issue of the Kew Buletin contains some interesting
particulars of experiments which have been con-
ducted in this country in the making of paper
from Marram Grass, Ammophila arundhiacea.
This plant grows on most of the sandy shores of
the British coast, and, as good paper has been
made from its fibre, it would appear to be well
worth the attention of those who have such land
under their control. It is frequently used for
binding sand, and in New South Wales, where
it was introduced in 1883, sheep are regularh fed
on it, so that there is no doubt it would stand
repeated cuttmg of its leaves. In the Port Fairy
district of Victoria, Australia, nules of sand
dunes have been reclaimed by planting Marram
Grass, whence it has heen sent to many other
Colonies for the same purpose.
THE GARDEN.
[January 3. 1914
CORRESPONDENCE.
{Thf Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents )
The Winter Jasmine. — This is just now ver>-
beautiful in tioiver. Its long sprays of soft yellow
give it a peculiar charm of its own, and reaUy
ought to be more generally cultivated. It is not
particular about the position it occupies, but will
thrive in almost any situation, and is always welcome
at this season of the year. I know of a large
bush growing on a lawn in Stonehouse, and
to my knowledge it has been there thirty years.
It makes a , good show of its pretty yellow
flowers during the winter months, and is so useful
for room decoration. — L. W. Driver, Stonehouse.
A Little-Known Ranunculus. — I am
sending you three photographs which may
be of interest to you. No. r is Ranunculus
Matthewsii. This is not so good as usual,
as, owing to the very mild winter, it has
been in flower for over three months, and
has now a number of blooms still out, the
individual flowers being 3 inches in dia-
meter. No. 2 is Ourisia macrocarpa. Dr.
Cockayne thinks this a new species. It is
not so strong a grower as the type, but
does well in cultivation. No. 3, Aciphylla
Colensoi, is rapidly disappearing owing
to rabbits and fire. — W. Willcox, Queens-
town, New Zealand.
A Pretty Tea Rose.— I refer to the
fairly recent variety Rosomane Narcisse
Thomas. We have grown it for two years,
and can vouch for it being a good grower
and free bloomer. The beauty of its foliagi-
is very noticeable, having more of thai
attractive bronze tinge in the early stage
of growth than the majority of Roses, and
passing finally to a deep glaucous green.
Perhaps the colour of the flowers may be
described as scarlet-crimson with a suf-
fusion of apricot ; at least, this will d"
lor its bud and half-developed stagr.
when it is really at its best, for, like all
other varieties possessing such beautiful
shades of colouring, it loses some of it^
richness on opening. — C. T., Highgate.
Mildew on Roses.— in reply to Mr
Charles P. Serjeantson in your issue for
December 27, page 642, in which he asks
for the experience of others who have
given Messrs. Gleeson's Serum a trial, 1
can fully bear out every word Mr. E.
Molyneux said in its favour. I have used ran
it rather extensively during the past
season, with the most remarkable results.
Early ill August the majority of our Roses
became badly infested, one or two varieties
which are prone to it especially so. We .-ipplied
Serum according to directions, and it acted like
magic. Some shoots which were perfectly white
were thoroughly cleansed, and in a few days the
foliage became qtiite natural. We gave two
more slight applications at intervals of about
ten days. The bushes became most healthy, and
produced a wealth of bloom, owing partly to
the mildness of the weather, right up to the
middle of December, such as I have never experi-
enced before during the thirty years that I have
lived at Aldenham. The most satisfactory point
about the Serum is that it leaves no sediment
and appears to be quite harmless to any flowers or
foliage. I have also used it with the same good
results on winter Cucumbers, Tomatoes and other
plants affected. When more widely known, I
predict a great future for this preparation. —
E. Beckett, V.M.H., Elstree.
Plants Flowering on Christmas Day.— I think
the following list of flowers in bloom, made
in my garden on Christmas Day, may be of interest
as showing the extraordinary- mildness of the
season : White Marguerite, Chrysanthemum, Wall-
flower, Violet, Passion Flower, yellow Jasmine,
Marigold, Geraniimi, Feverfew, coloured Primrose,
white Primrose, yellow Primrose. Cornflower,
purple-tipped Clary, Love-in-a-Mist, Snapdragon.
Godetia, Silene, Brompton Stock, Tobacco Plant,
Nasturtium, Lobelia, Aubrietia, yellow Alyssum,
Campanula attica, Daisy, Delphmium and six
varieties of Roses. The garden is situated very
UNCULUS MATTHKWSJI IN A NEW ZEALAND
GARDEN.
high and is a good deal wind-blown. Has it
been known before that Aubrietia and Alyssum
are blooming at the same time as Lobelia and
Geraniums ? In the woods and fields of the
Isle of Wight I have also seen iji the last day or
two Primroses, blue Dog Violets, Ragwort in full
bloom, Dandelion, Daisies, Speedwell, Camomile
Daisy, Cow Parsley, Scabious, Groundsel, white
Violet and pink Campion, and the catkins are
out on the Nut trees. — K. H., [sic of Wight.
Pruning Gooseberry and Currant Bushes.— in
" Notes of the Week," issue December 6, the
reference to the pruning of Gooseberry and Currant
bushes will be welcomed by many readers. In
country, and e\en many suburban districts birds
are very destructive. Undoubtedly, autumn pruning
(as relating to pruning and its effect on the bushes) is
more beneficial than that done in the spring. At one
time I grew about an acre of these bush fruits, and
tried pruning at different dates. One year I pruned
a Gooseberry bush very early in the autumn.
There being so mafiy others for the birds — in a bird
district — to tackle, this one bush was left untouched.
In spring, this early-pruned bush commenced to
grow nearly a week earlier than the spring-pruned
ones, and, moreover, kept ahead and bore a heavier
crop of finer berries. I have never tried the efiect
of syringing with petroleum ; but if birds can be
kept at bay by its application, then the result will be
of much advantage to fruit cultivators. — G. G.
Secateurs v. Knife. — Mr. Duncan Pearson's
note on page 631, issue December 20, 1913, is timely,
but allow me to say that Auberts' secateurs are
the best, because both blades cut clean and are so
powerful that a shoot of any size that the
opening will allow can be readily cut,
almost as clean as with a knife. The
newest make have one handle turned back
to form the spring which opens the knives,
and cannot clog with chips or soil. Auberts
also make what they call French Vuic
loppers in two sizes, with handles about
twenty inches long. These are very power-
ful, and require both hands to use ; but
they cut even old wood like cheese. Both
of these are kept by seedsmen, and are
far preferable to the old sorts with wooden
handles, which have only one cutting
edge, and thus bruise the wood below the
cut on one side. — George Bunvaro,
^'Jaidstone.
Plants Flowering Late.— The following
plants were in bloom at Bryn Oerog,
near Llangollen, on December r4, 1913 :
Rudbeckia Newmanii, Wallflowers, Pent-
stemons. Antirrhinums, Salvia dulcis,
Laurustinus, Aubrietia Lloyd Edwards,
Helleborus foetidus, H. niger altifolius.
Ivy-leaved Geraniums, Pink Cyclops,
Erigeron philadelphicus, E. mucronatus,
Violas, double Furze, PotentiUa splen-
didissima. Primroses (various), double
white Clematis, Menziesia polifolia alba,
Lithospermum prostratum, Oxalis arborea,
.Arabis albida, yellow Polyanthus, Galan-
thus cilicicus, Eomecon chionantha. Lobelia
fulgens, hybrid Heucheras, white Fumi-
tory, Erinus alpmus, Linum arboreum.
Delphinium Queen of Delphiniums, Chry-
santhemum maximum Mrs. C. Lowthian
Bell, Heuchera Edge Hybrid, Verbena
Miss Willmott, Hypericum moserianum,
ROCK Gaillardias, Scabiosa caucasica, Luphius
subcamosus, Achillea Single White, Cam-
panula persicifolia (white, also the blue),
I German Scabious (various), Viola cornuta,
Anemone coronaria (many). Rose Dorothy
Perkins, Hybrid Tea and China Roses, common
Honeysuckle, Cyclamen cilicicum, Cheiranthus
Alliouii, Arabis aubrietioides, Mesembryanthe-
mum (rose coloured), Asteriscus niaritimus, double
yellow Alyssum. Alyssum citrinum. Sweet Alyssum
(white, aimual). Campanula garganica, C. g. hirsuta,
C. muralis, C. m. major, Iberis gibraltarica, Con-
volvulus Cneorum, PotentiUa willmottiana. Poly-
gonum vaccinifolium, Polygala Chama'buxus,
P. C. purpureus, Helianthcmum Mrs. C. W. Earle
(double red), a salmon red Pulmonaria, Myosotis
dissitiflora. Red Valerian, Alpine Phlox Vivid,
Auricula Yellow Beauty, Iberis serapervirens, Jas-
minum nudiflorum, Schizostylis coccinea and
manv others. — E. J. Li.ovn Epwards.
January 3, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
Corydalis thalictrifolia.— This charming plant,
so well portrayed in your issue of December 13,
page 631, is of more than passing interest. Though
introduced in igoo by Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons
from China through their collector IMr. E. H.
Wilson, it is not so generally grown as it deserves
to be. It makes a pretty plant for the rock garden,
but it can only be regarded as half-hardy. Its
elegant foliage and pale yellow flowers make it a
charming subject for edging groups of plants in
the cooi greenhouse ; it also has the merit of re-
maining in good condition for a long time. It is
not so generally lino%vn that it is an excellent subject
for house furnishing, as it keeps in a good state
for weeks, even imder the adverse conditions that
obtain in London. Its cultivation presents no
difficulty, as it is easily raised from seeds sown in
a cold frame or greenhouse, while at all stages of
its growth it requires quite cool treatment. It
should prove a very useful subject for the amateur
with a small greenhouse. ^Ian.
The Horseshoe Fern. — In your answer to " IMrs.
J. B. L.," page 628, December 13, you state that this
Fern is unknown to you. For the beneiit of your
correspondent allow me to say that it is a name
sometimes applied to the New Zealand Trichomanes
reniforme, which is, however, more often known as
the Kidney Fern. Unlike the other members of
the genus to which it belongs, the fronds are quite
simple, that is, not divided in any way. They are
from 2 inches to 4 inches broad, of a transparent
nature, and supported on stems from 4 inches to
6 inches in height. The individual fronds are
kidney-shaped, with a deep notch at the base.
This Trichomanes belongs to the class known as
Filmy Ferns, and thrives best in a dose, moisture-
laden atmosphere, such as under a hand-light or
in a close case in a fernery kept at a greenhouse
temperature, while it may also be grown in a
Wardian case in a room. Shade from sunshine in any
way is very necessary. It thrives best in a mixture
of fibrous peat and soft sandstone with a little
sand, and needs a liberal quantity of water. — H. P.
Chrysanthemum Elegance. — Re " Caledonia's "
note on single-flowered Chrysanthemum Elegance
in your issue of November 29, page 595, I may
say I grew this variety some years ago, but dis-
carded it, as it was too late in flowering for this
district. In notes on early-flowering Chrysanthe-
mums in a Scottish contemporary in November,
1905, I stated that Elegance was just showing
colour at the time of writing (October 18). Our
Scottish climate is, like its coast-line, variable.
October varieties suit the seaboard, but in the
Midlands we want varieties that will flower from
the end of August onwards. Our season is a short
one, blooms and buds being sometimes frozen
past recovery by the first week in October. This
season is an exception, a full harvest being vouch-
safed. During the past twenty years' residence
here I cannot remember a season so immune from
frost. Only one morning was there sufficient
(7°) to blacken Dahlias. In the same notes Pink
Beauty is classed as too late and Miss Rose too
small, both discarded. I remember the stubby
growth of Elegance. I would get cuttings either
from Messrs. W. Wells and Co. or Messrs. H. J.
Jones, probably the latter. — S. H., Stirling, N.B.
FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
January 13. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meet-
ing and Exhibition at Vincent Square, Westminster.
January 23. — Gardeners' Royal Benevolent
Institution's Annual General Meeting at Simpson's,
Strand, London.
WHICH IS THE GUERNSEY
LILYP
WE have just read the article on
the above plant by Mr. Jacob
on page 619 of your issue fur
December 13, 1913, and can
only say, after reading this
and many articles that have
appeared in the horticultural Press of late, how
regrettable it is that such a useful and interesting
family — and one that is so easily accommodated
and wliich gives such ample return in pleasure
for any trouble taken in growing — should be in
such a terrible muddle as regards nomenclature.
Unfortunately, Nerines have never been popular
flowers. They are admired when in bloom, but
have never been greatly sought after, as have
the Daffodil and Rose, and tliis want of popularity
is the root of the trouble that is now existing
over their many names. If you buy a Daffodil
and it is wrongly named, though you do not know it
yourself, the chances are that yoiu: neighboiur, when
looking over the garden wall, can correct the label
and is proud of the fact. The same may happen
with a wrongly named Rose and many other
plants and flowers, because they are popular and
well known to every owner of a garden, whether
large or small ; but, unfortunately, with the
Nerine, though a plant of quite as many parts,
it is altogether different.
Nerine sarniensis, the true Guernsey Lily, bears
umbels of rosy carmine blooms, having neither
orange nor scarlet nor salmon blood in them.
They glisten somewhat in the sunlight, but not
nearly as much as many others of the family.
This plant until a few years ago was quite at home
in the island of Guernsey, and was to be met with
very frequently in the larger as well as in the
cottage garden ; but, alas ! it is now very scarce,
and becoming more so as each year rolls by. It
is, perhaps, more than most Nerines very opposed
to moving, neither does it like confinement, and on
this account is not such a good pot plant as are
many of the others.
One of the reasons, we believe, for so many
totally distinct Nerines being named alike is
that they are so awfully slow to propagate by
offsets, but quick by seed, and a very large, number
of people, having a great liking for seeds and their
raising, and having been enraptured with someone
else's Nerines, have asked for seed of them, and when
the seedlings have flowered they are named as
the donor has named bis.
Mr. Jacob says his blooms of N. sarniensis —
and we believe he has the true variety, judging
from the description he gives of his flowers ;
we mean the blooms from the bulbs bought in
Guernsey — were called rosea. This surely means
that it is a variety (sport or hybrid) of sarniensis ;
but we think that such a name as rosea being
applied to a variety of a rosy carmine plant is
very misleading, and only tends to confuse growers,
as the difference between a rosy carmine, under
certain conditions of growth, at certain seasons
and by certain lights, and a rosea is not sufficiently
distinct, and suggests, again, that it is a seedling
or sport, which for some better name the owner
has called rosea, not knowing what it is from
or what its parent was like.
We think, now that the Nerine is being taken
up in earnest, it is quite time that some classifi-
cation was started.
Guernsey. Sarniensis.
SEASONABLE NOTES ON
AURICULAS.
Jk T one time the Auricula was largely
f\ cultivated, especially by amateurs,
/ % but for some reason it ceased to
/ % be popular. Now, however, there
' * are unmistakable signs that it is
once more in the ascendant.
For the Outdoor Garden. — The Auricula is an
ideal subject for the amateur, who may either grow
it in the border or in unheated frames. Two
varieties, viz., Celtic King and the yellow Queen
Alexandra, are splendid for the open border, the
latter producing a iine effect when planted in
small groups ; but it is much improved by frame
culture.
As a Frame Plant. — I fully recognise the value
of the Auricula for the border and cottagers'
window-boxes, but to secure the finest results a
cold house or frame is necessary, especially if we
wish to exhibit or ciUtivate what is known as the
show section, which embraces the selfs, green-
edged, grey-eyed and white-edged.
The Position of the Frame should, if possible,
be on the south side of a building during the dull
period of the year, say, from October to March ;
but in summer a north aspect is preferable. In
spite of some old writers, there are few, if any,
secrets regarding the cultivation of these beautiful
flowers. The principal factors are a sweet rooting
medium, cleanliness, and careful watering at all
times.
Plants During January. — For the last two
months little attention has been needed beyond
giving plenty of ventilation and keeping the plants
as dry as possible overhead and at the root without
their becoming dust dry. Similar treatment will
be required during the month of January ; but if
the weather remains open and tolerably dry, a little
more water may be given at the roots, as the plants
will now be preparing to awaken from their resting
period. Woolly aphis and green fly are the chief
insect pests, and directly these are seen the frame
ought to be vaporised with XL All. The latter
pest is easily destroyed, but the former is
more difficult to dispose of. A little methylated
spirit or tobacco powder will Idll all that congre-
gate around the stems of the plants and on the
surface of the soil if the fumigation does not
prove effectual.
Roots Decaying. — It sometimes happens that
a plant (particularly through the winter months)
looks sickly, and if we examine that example we
shall find that the tap-root has begun to decay at
the bottom and the decay is gradually working
up through the plant. As a rule, it can be
easily lifted out of the soU, when the rotten
portion must be cut away, and, ■ after some
powdered charcoal or lime has been placed over
the wound, the plant should be put into a
small pot, where it will soon recover if carefully
watered.
Some Good Varieties. — Most firms offer Auriculas
fairly cheap if purchased by the dozen and the
selection is left to them ; but for the unirutiated
I append a list of usefifl and easily grown sorts.
Alpine — Argus, Bluebell, Claude Halcro, Duke of
York, Firefly, Ganymede, General Buller, Martin
Smith, Mrs. H. Turner, Rosy Mom, Teviotdale and
Uranie. Show — Henry Wilson, Love Bird, Mrs.
Henwood, Colonel Champneys, William Brock-
bank, Acme, Heather Bell, Rachel, Favourite,
Mikado, Mrs. Phillips and Ruby. T. W. Briscoe.
THE GARDEN.
[January 3, 1914.
PHLOXES AND PENTSTE-
after the end of August, put in boxes of sandy soil 11^ f^ HAMPSHIRE GARDEN.
6 inches deep, and, as soon as a little growth shows,
MONS FOR LARGE AND the tops are pinched out, so that one gets strong j g^j^g ^p ^^^ NEWER DECORATIVE
SMALL GARDENS.
cream — almost yellow when first opening — an
plants with three or five growths to plant out in
spring. They have been grown on the same site
' for six vears (though one does not recommend
TOO often those who only have small I this),
gardens sit down and bemoan tha The bed is manured with farmyard manure
fact, and envy those who have at their in November, hastard-trenched, and left rough
disposal broad acres of open land and until about a fortnight before replanting. The
woodland glades. It is true that the | pick of the collection is a seedling, edged
latter can attempt gardening on a : and flushed with pink (in the way of Rosa
more lavish and comprehensive scale than those ' alba), but the groimd coloiu: is a pronounced
who have a modest quarter of an acre or
even less. Yet in such a limited space many
excellent results and a vast amount of
pleasiure can be obtained, pro-
vided the owner is enthusiastic
enough and uses common sense
in planning and planting. One of
the most interesting and charming
gardens of small dimensions that
we have seen is at Ditchett, Rom-
ford, the residence of Dr. S. Wright,
a well-known and highly respected
resident, and one who is particu-
larly keen on gardening.
Although the garden at Ditchett
is less than a quarter of an acre
in size, it is filled from spring
until winter with interesting,
beautiful, and often rare flowers.
Roses, Delphiniums, Phloxes and
Pentstemons are his favourites,
and the last two named are as fine
as, or even a little better than,
any we have ever seen. The bed
shown in one of the illustrations
was so good and so full ot flowers
that the camera could not penetrate
to the interior ; but enough are
shown to indicate how well these
Pentstemons were doing. Phloxes,
as will be seen in another illustra-
tion, were also wonderfully good ;
and with a view to assisting those
of our readers who may he
similarly situated, Dr. Wright
has kindly given his methods of
cultivation, which are as follow :
" The Phloxes are raised annu-
ally from cuttings taken in the
spring. As soon as the old plants
have growths 4 inches long they
are thinned down to four, and
these tied out on short sticks.
The ' thinnings ' are used as
cuttings and inserted in boxes
of light sandy soil, and, as soon
as they are rooted, planted out
in a nursery bed. They give good
heads of bloom late in the autumn, when
the parent plants are over ; they are then
planted in a prepared bed and left for two
years. About sixty varieties are grown, the
best of which are Dr. Konigshofer, Etna,
Baron von Dedem, G. A. Strohlein, Tapis
Blanc, Griippen Konigin, Majs, Selma, America,
Le Mahdi, Mme. Paul Dutric, Embrasement and
Goliath.
The Pentstemons are all home-raised except
one variety (George Home). A bed of seedlings
was grown annually for several years and cuttings
taken from any that appeared worth propagating.
Cuttings are taken as soon as they can be obtained
ROSES.
[Continued from ]'ol. LXXVIL, page 648.)
Mrs. Leonard Petrie (.Mex. Dickson and Sons,
iQio). — 1 am inclined to think this is one of the
best of the decorative Roses of that somewhat
indefinite colour yellow, fading to primrose cream
and white. In the bud it is a good distinct colour,
flushed on the outside of the petal with carmine.
In the fully open flower this becomes pale sulphur
to pale cream. The flowers are of good shape.
immense flower, tall and strong in growth, every freely produced, of delightful fragrance, and the
flower on the spike opening perfectly." plant is an excellent grower and makes an ideal
bedding plant.
Mrs. Sam Ross (Hugh Dickson,
1912). — I referred to this Rose
when writing of the exhibition
varieties, but it is too good a
garden Rose to leave out here. It
is a deeper colour than the last
named, being deep chamois yellow,
shading to light primrose, with a
touch of buff on the outside of
the petals \A'hich gives it the
deeper colour referred to. Its
large, full and well-shaped flowers
are very freely produced, and it is
quite a good grower ; fragrant.
Mrs. Wakefield Christie Miller
(S. McGredy and Son. 1909). —
This makes a fine splash of colour
as seen from a distance, but the
flower is more like a large Paeony
than a Rose. Still, some people
greatly admire it. It is very free-
flowering, especially in the autunan,
and for an Irish-raised Rose par-
ticularly free from mildew.
My Maryland (J. Cook, 1909). —
.An American-raised variety, and
very good imder glass, I am told.
It has not been bad out of doors
here with me, but it is not as good
as Mme. Segond Weber, which it
resembles, and I do not think we
want them both. There was an
excellent table at the autumn
show of the National Rose Society
of this Rose (from imder glass)
that created a good deal of
curiosity as to its correct name,
and the judges must have fotmd it
difficult to decide between it and
Melody. Eventually My Maryland
was placed second ; but as there
exhibited, namely, from under
glass, there was no denying its
beauty.
Old Gold (S. McGredy and Son, 1913).— This
is luidoubtedly one of the freest-flowering Roses
we have. My small bed of five plants came into
flower in May, and I have flowers ot it in front
of me as I write in mid-December. I cannot recall
passing that bed without seeing some flowers
on it during the whole period. The habit of the
plant, apparently, is to continually send up fresh
shoots, the first flowers of which are out before
the last of the previous shoot are over, so that
we have at last the true Hybrid Perpetual, although
it may also be, and is, a Hybrid Tea. In its early
stages the bud might almost be taken for Irish
Elegance — slightly deeper in shade, perhaps — and
A BORDER OF MIXED FLOWERS IN DR.
ROMFORD.
S. WRIGHTS GARDEN AT
Many of the Delphiniums in this garden are
seedlings of Dr. Wright's own raising, and
some that we saw earlier in the year were very
charming indeed. They included a wide range
of colours ; the individual flowers were large
and well placed on tall, massive stems that
were a sure indication of good cultivation.
Other fine herbaceous plants, many of them
raised from seed, are Oriental Poppies, inclucUng
some unique seedlings* from Jenny Mawson ;
Geum Mrs. Bradshaw, varieties of Chrysan-
themum maximum, Achillea Ptarmica The Pearl,
Heleniums, Statice latifolia, Nepeta Mussinii,
Rudbeclda speciosa and perennial Sunflowers.
January 3, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
bere it is fixed. If the beauty of any
Rose is enhanced by the dew on its
petals, surely this is the one. I am
not going to pretend to describe its
colour. Tliose who want to know what
it is like must grow it. [A coloured
plate of it appeared in the issue for
October ii.— Ed.] I have turned up
the raisers' description, but even their
well-known eloquence for once has
failed them. One reads that it created
a sensation among all those who saw-
its first flowers, so much so that all
kinds of schemes as to its future were
formulated. Can one doubt that the
right solution was arrived at when it
was decided to name it Queen Mary ?
Southampton. H. E. Molyneu.x.
{To be continued.)
ROSE -GROWING IN
TOWN GARDENS.
T
A FULL BED OF WELL-GROWN PENTSTEMONS.
it is in this stage the flower should be cut and not
allowed to develop on the plant, as it lasts a long
time in water, If left on the plant, the colour
goes quickly, and the main beauty of the flower
is lost. The dark bronze foliage sets off the lovely
buds and is a fine contrast. An excellent grower.
The flowers are held erect and on strong footstalks
that require no artificial aids or wiring to keep
them erect when cut. It is not a single, but has
very few petals (after the style of Mrs. Alfred Tate).
Quite mildew-proof here, fragrant, and
strongly recommended.
Ophelia (William Paul and Son,
1912). — I lirst saw this Rose at the
Chelsea International E.xhibition of
r9i2, and was much taken with its
refined shape and appearance. It is,
in fact, almost Tea-like in both. Colour,
pale flesh, flushed rose. It is not a
large flower, but a very beautiful one.
Not unlike Margaret, but paler.
Queen Mary (Alex. Dickson and
Sons, r9i3). — To my way of thinking
this is the Rose of the year, and not
only of the year ; I am not sirre it
would not get my vote as the most
beautiful of all Roses. Only those who
have grown it can know how very
beautiful it is. The large tripod of
flowers that were put up when it
secured the gold medal were not really
typical ; they were, in fact, grown
under glass, and lacked the delicate
refinement of the more naturally-grown
blooms. In fact, I saw them com
mented on as not unlike Juliet ! I
myself carmot see any resemblance.
I once heard a discussion between two
well-known rosarians as to the respec
five merits of Mildred Grant and, I
think. White Maman Cochet. The Tea
man closed the discussion by calling
Mildred Grant " a bold, brazen-faced hussy." That
is perhaps an unfair description of Juliet — but ! The
only thing in common between the two Roses is that
they are both bicolors ; there the resemblance ends.
Queen Mary opens up a new vista for us. An
artist has been at work with an entirely new method
of applying his colours. There is nothing quite
like it in the Rose world. One has seen fleeting
glimpses of it perhaps in an imusually highly
coloured flower here or a chance bloom there, but
HE average tovm gardener
is apt to become a little
wearied by the repetition
of some dozen names,
which constitute the
official list of town Roses.
Certainly he never does limit his
selection solely to these varieties, and
taste alone determines his final choice.
For as the grower becomes more expert his ambition
increases, and often he is tempted to try varieties
with which the chances of success are small. But
a town garden, intelligently looked after, gives better
results than one in the country in which Roses are
left to grow themselves ; and, given a moderately
open position, the number of sorts that can be
made to thrive in the neighbourhood cf large
cities is limited only by the space at the
gardener's disposal and willingness to plant.
BORDERS OF HERBACEOUS PHLOXES IN A SMALL GARDEN.
THE GARDEN.
[January 3, 1914.
The Best Varieties to Plant. — The Hybrid
Tea Roses fumish most of the best varieties tor
town culture, and each year sees the addition of
many striking novelties to this section, already
the largest, as it is the most popular, and the one
best suited to this climate. In the selection of
Roses for to-wns issued by the National Rose
Society, the following Hybrid Teas are included :
Caroline Testout, Dr. O'Donel Browne, Gustav
Griinenvald, J. B. Clark, La Tosca, Mme. Abel
Chatenay, Mme. Ravary and Prince de Bulgarie.
It goes without saying that the considered opinion
of such a body of experts is beyond contradiction,
and, for general purposes, there is no doubt this
list represents the front rank of town Roses. All
are well-known and popular sorts, and few com-
ments are needed. Of the varieties named, only
the first four are suitable for exhibition. Prince
de Bulgarie and J. B. Clark appear in the list for
the first time in the society's catalogue for I9r4.
The former is a pretty decorative Rose with fine
glossy foliage and of branching growth. The colour
being deep rose pink. Of vigorous growth,
shapely in habit and fragrant, it flowers very
freely throughout the season, and is a fine exhibition
variety. Miss Cjmthia Forde is rather like a
deeply coloured Caroline Testout, and though
perhaps a little inferior to that variety in size
of bloom, is of far better shape, and has not the
vice of occasionally balling over. Mrs. Da%'id
McKee, an excellent large-flowered yellow, is
very free-blooming and of fine habit, and makes a
good town Rose. Joseph Hill is also good, hoth
in blossom and foliage, though not quite so free-
flowering as the last named, and rather addicted
to mildew, though not badh'. Mme. Melanie
Soupert is becoming increasingly popular in town
gardens, and justly so. It is excellent in every
way, except that it has also a slight tendency to
mildew, which requires to be checked. Its fine
foliage, spreading growth and freedom of flowering
render it ideal as a garden Rose, and it is quite
in the front rank for exhibition. Though not
described as yellow, that is the colour most
is Erica mediterranea hybrida. It rarely exceeds
a foot in height, and often only reaches a modest
6 inches, making neat tufts of green, branching
stems and foliage that from December until well
into February are smothered with rose pink flowers
It is quite hardy, and appears to do well anywhere,
sho\ving preference for a half-shady position in
a sandy peat soil. However, peat is not essential,
for, like other Heaths, it will thrive in loamy soil
to which leaf-mould has been freely added. The
one element to which most members of the Heath
family object is lime, and it is almost hopeless
to try to establish a Heath garden in a very
chalky soil.
SOME GOOD EVERGREEN
HEDGE PLANTS.
A Bi;.-\UTIFUL WINTER-FLOWERING HEATH : ERIC.\ MEDITERRANEA HYBRIDA.
The photogmph was taken a iveck before C'fuistmaf:.
is very variable, ranging from the palest pink to
almost an orange shade. J. B. Clark is what is
termea a rampant grower, and is difficult to manage.
It is quite unsuitable for bedding, by reason of
its size, and, unless required for exhibition, should
l)e pegged down or treated as a pillar Rose. Though
usually the flower is coarse, it is still the best
red Hybrid Tea for general purposes. La Tosca is
also a tall grower, though not, like J. B. Clark, an
ugly one. It is a most accommodating Rose, and
invariably gives a good accoimt of itself, no matter
how poor the soil may be, but requires a good deal
of room. The other varieties are all of medium
height.
Newer Varieties. — As they become established
in popular favour, no doubt some of the newer sorts
will find their way into the National Rose Society's
list. Two that seem to deserve that honour
are Lady Alice Stanley and Miss Cynthia Forde.
The former is one of the most reliable Roses.
In colour it is silvery pink, the reverse of petals
frequently seen in it, the delightful suffusion of
amethyst in the young flowers being very fleeting.
Rayon d'Or may prove a great acquisition when
robust plants are obtainable at a moderate price,
if its unfortimate habit of dying back is due only
to over-propagation, as is so often the case with
new varieties. But it certainly seems to have
this weakness in its constitution. Duchess of
Wellington is a beautiful decorative yellow,
capable of becoming a success in many town
gardens. With other varieties I will deal in my
next article. P. L. Goddard.
A HARDY WINTER-FLOWERING
HEATH.
{Erica mediterranea hvbrid.\.)
The great charm of the Heath garden is that it
provides flowers the whole year round, and this is
one reason why Heaths are so rapidly coming
into favour. The best of all the winter Heaths
The following m^tes direct attention to a number
of useful hedge plants with persistent foliage
which are suitable for general culture
in the British Isles or for certain
areas thereof. Attention is drawn
to any little peculiarities of culture
which particular subjects may require
under the respective headings, while
those plants are also indicated which
are only suitable for certain localities :
Common Holly (Ilex Aquifolium).
— There can be no doubt that
this is one of the best of all ever-
"* green hedge plants, for not only
"^ ^ does it form an impenetrable fence
,j(^ which keeps in good condition for a
very long period, but it presents a
pleasing appearance also. Although
large plants may be used for
hedges, it is usually better to start
with those which are grown from
2 feet to 4 feet high. Care must be
taken that they are well furnished
with branches to the base, for if the
hedge is commenced with a thin
bottom, it is very diflicult to induce
it to fumish well afterwards. The
plants should be inserted from i foot
to rj feet apart, and it is usually
advisable to remove the points of
the shoots soon after planting. Do
not allow much height growth until
the lower parts of the hedge are
quite dense. Planting may be carried
out in April or September. Other kinds of Hollies
are sometimes used for hedges, such as those with
golden and silver foliage and the large-leaved
Hodgin's Holly. The former kinds are quite
appropriate for some positions, but large-leaved
sorts are generally inferior to the common
Holly.
Common Yew (Taxus baccata) is another
useful hedge plant, which lasts in good condition
for a very long time. In fact. Yew hedges may be
seen flourishing at the present time which were
planted over a centun,' ago. The Yew, like the
Holly, thrives on a great variety of soils, and may
be planted throughout the country except where
the ground is water-logged. It takes rather a
long while in establishing itself, but when it once
becomes thoroughly established, growth is fairly
rapid. Some people prefer plants raised from
cuttings rather than those grown from seeds, owing
to greater uniformity of growth. Plant at the time
recommended for Holly.
January 3, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
Oval-leaved Privet {Ligustmm ovalifolmm). —
Although this plant is overdone in many places, it
cannot be overlooked, for it grows into a fine fence
quicker than any other subject, and it is very cheap.
Its leaves are evergreen in most places, although
in some of the colder districts they may be shed
during a cold winter. If plants a couple of feet
high are placed from r2 inches to 15 inches apart,
a good hedge will result in three or four years' time.
It is a good plan to cut the plants back for a distance
of from 9 inches to 12 inches during the first year,
and afterwards check height growth until the sides
are quite dense. Any kind of soil is suitable if
manure is applied, and planting may take place
any time between early September and April. The
golden-leaved variety of this species is also available.
Holm Oak (Quercus Ilex). — This
tree is not often used for hedges,
although it is excellent for the
purpose in the milder parts of
the country. It stands clipping
well, and forms a dense hedge up to
t5 feet or 20 feet high. More-
over, it withstands exposure to
sea air very well. Being a diffi-
cult subject to transplant, il
must be planted while quite small,
the best periods being late April
and early May and September.
Berberis Darwinii may be
used for hedges in the Midlands
and South, but it should be
treated in an informal manner
rather than as a very formal
hedge, for although it with-
stands a fair amount of clipping,
constant pruning is likely to cause
it to become thin about the lower
parts. B. stenophylla may be
used in a similar manner. As a
rule, one pruning a year, as soon
as the flowers fall, suffices. They
thrive in any good garden soil.
Escallonia macrantha. — There
are few better hedge plants than
this for the South-West Coimties,
in places where great strength is
unnecessary. It forms a very
nice hedge from 5 feet to 6 feet
high, and may be kept at a
width , of from 12 inches to 15
inches. Its dark green foliage and
pretty, rose-coloured flowers are
equally admired. Few plants
stand sea air so well or establish
themselves better. Planting may be
carried on from September to April.
Olearia Haastii is another shrub
which is well worth consideration.
It gives excellent results in
the vicinity of the sea, and also inland. An annual
pruning serves to keep it quite dense and within
bounds. This pruning should be given as soon as the
flowers fade, for by pruning at that time the dead
flowers are removed, which otherwise are rather
unsightly. It is at its best when allowed to grow
from 2j feet to 3^ feet high. Planting may be
carried on at any period during autumn, mnter or
early spring.
Common Laurel (Prunus Laurocerasus). — This
is utilised as a hedge plant in some places, but it is
not one of the most satisfactory subjects, for it is
very apt to become thin about the bottom, and
the large leaves look very unsightly if disfigured
during the clipping. As a rule, such hedges are
usually pruned with knives or secateurs, which.
of course, adds considerably to the labour. The
Laurel has an advantage, inasmuch as it thrives in
poor, sandy soil, and may be planted in shade.
Lawson's Cypress (Cupressus lawsoniana) intro-
duces a coniferous tree which is sometimes used for
fancy hedges. It cannot be strongly recom-
mended, for it is very difficult to keep it well
furnished with branches about the lower parts.
Its great value is as a wind-break. The same
remarks apply to Thuya plicata, or T. gigantea
as it is frequently called. Both trees are imsuitable
for dry soils and an impure atmosphere.
Common Spruce (Picea excelsa). — Although this
tree cannot be recommended for general planting,
it is well worth consideration for exposed positions
on high land, more particularly where the ground
the innumerable other flowers borne out of season
owing to the mild weather so far experienced.
With the exception of varieties and hybrids of
garden origin, practically all of the shrubby
Veronicas are natives of New Zealand. No fewer
than ten distinct Veronicas are enumerated in
the list of December - flowering plants at
Goodwood, issued by the Duke of Richmond
and published in our issue of December 20,
1913. Probably the species that has given
the best account of itself is V. Andersonii and
its variety variegata, both of which still flower
profusely in many parts of the country. The
illustration of V. macrocarpa is prepared from a
photograph taken in a Surrey garden on Decem-
ber r8, where it had been flowering for some weeks
past. The graceful V. salicifolia,
with Willow-like leaves, together
with V. buxifolia, with Box-like
leaves, are also flowering freely
this winter. There are certain
flowers, like the yellow Jasmine,
Winter Sweet and Witch Hazels,
that we look for annually among
our garden shrubs, but this season
we find the list so far extended
as to include not only Veronicas,
but Roses, Rhododendrons, Cyti-
suses, Hypericums, Rosemary,
Solanum jasminoides and Spirseas
in variety.
COLOURED PLATE
PLATE 1484.
I
VERONICA MACROCARPA FLOWERING IN A SURREY GARDEN
DECEMBER.
is inclined to be wet. In addition to forming good,
rough shelter hedges, it is also useful for wind-
breaks in nurseries and other gardens. The North
American White Spruce (P. alba) and the Sitka
Spruce (P. sitchensis) may be used for similar
purposes. All three should be planted when
between i foot and 2 feet in height.
SHRUBBY VERONICAS FLOWERING
IN WINTER.
All through December, in suburban and country
gardens alike, certain of the shrubby Veronicas
have been flowering in their full glory. So con-
spicuous are they in many gardens that they
appear to command even more attention than
GARDENING WITH
ANNUALS.
F among the readers of The
Garden there are any in
doubt as to the value or
possibility of gardening
with annuals alone, they
have only to turn to the
beautiful coloured plate in the
present issue to have their minds
disabused on the subject for all
time. Surely no greater evidence
than this could be forthcoming,
save that of the garden itself,
which also, naturally, would pay
higher tribute to colour beauty
and good effect than is possible
otherwise. Minus the garden, how-
ever, the coloured plate — the colour
photograph of which was taken
in the gardens of the Right Hon.
the Countess of Eldon, TUehurst,
near Reading — plays its part
uncommonly well, showing to perfection and great
naturalness not a few of the flowers grown.
Happily, the setting is an ideal one, grass verge,
tree and hedgerow mirroring into fullest life
and beauty all that is best in these easily
grown plants. Happily, too, among hardy and
half-hardy annuals there is a choice sufiiciently
large to suit aU gardens, their endless colour shades
and variable heights only finding a parallel in the
continuous flowering of the plants. Hence we
may garden with the gayest and tallest of these
flowers, or in smaller areas confine our efforts to
the little-known, though not less beautiful, lands
which attain but a few inches high. Or we may
garden with some of the more important or exten-
sive families alone, some, like the Snapdragons
IN
THE GARDEN.
[January 3, 1914.
(Antirrhinums), tiiat in Tom Thumb, inter- [ VVarscewiczii, a plant yielding sheaves of brilliant
orange scarlet flowers that compel admiration
These are plants to garden with, since, while
affording sheets of flowers, they also raise the
annual to the topmost rung of Popularity's
ladder. E. H. Je.nkins.
ANNUALS BY THE
PATHS! DE.
mediate and tall varieties are capable of affording
great galleries of flowers tier above tier in a very
remarkable way. Equally remarkable, too, is
the fact — not sufSciently appreciated, perhaps —
that in each of the sections named identical shades
of colour are repeated. These come true from
seeds, and are therefore reliable.
Of its importance we have on more than one
occasion been impressed when looking through the
trial grounds of Messrs. Sutton and Sons at Reading,
from whose seeds, by the way, the flowers shown
in the coloured plate were grown and by whom ' Among the annual flowers of lowly stature these
the colour photograph was taken, and it is recorded are many kinds well adapted for growing beside
here for the benefit of those who would have the pathways that intersect the garden, where
their gardens aglow with colour for
weeks on end at a singularly small
cost. What is perhaps insufficiently
realised in regard to annuals gener-
ally is not so much their cheapness
or variety as, given certain con-
ditions, their possibilities. For ex-
ample, the Snapdragon is not
strictly an annual, though its
greatest garden value is only
reached by treating it as such,
sowing the seeds in warmth in early
February to ensure a blaze of
colour in July and August following,
with other sowings in succession for
later flowering. For borders simi-
larly situated to that shown in the
accompanying plate, a background
might be formed by Sweet Peas in
blue, white, scarlet, pink, cream
and other shades. By arranging
them in isolated, pyramidally
trained groups, light and shade
would be retained and informality
secured. Following these might
appear a broad belt of tall crimson
Snapdragon, with another of white
and a further one of pink of the
intermediate class.
Fronting these might be arranged
Godetias of distinctive colours, than
which, perhaps, few plants are
half so gay or so profuse in
flowering. Then, should space
permit and where fragrance is
desired — and where is it not ? — a
broad belt of Stocks should be
formed, to be followed again by
a Tom Thumb Antirrhinum and,
finally, a brilliant blue Lobelia.
Some of these are so faithfully
depicted in the coloured plate
that they will appeal to all, and
for the rest a few suggestions have
been added. Where for some
special reason a late summer and early autumn
display is desired, the Chinese Aster is well worth
considering. It is a great family — great in endless
colour shades, flower form and varying height ;
hence of much utility. A fine attribute of the
plant is that it may be transplanted almost at
flower-time with impunity, so that, apart from
specialisation, it is also a plant for the reserve
garden, well suited to filling any blank spaces in
the border where earlier-flowering subjects have
gone before. Then why do not we make much
more of brilliantly flowered plants, Linum grandi-
florum and Tom Thumb Nasturtiums for poorest
where, on the right, Alyssum Carter's Snow Carpet
is forming an edging nearly two feet wde. The
seed of this was sown where the plants are shown
about the second week in April, and was first
about a foot wide, the plants having spread, as
already indicated, to nearly twice that distance
by the following September, when the photograph
was taken.
This is one of the best annuals for edg-
ings, owing to its dwarf habit, delicious fragrance
and long season of flowering. The plants illus-
trated commenced to bloom at the end of Jime,
and did not cease until November was well under
way. On the left is an edging of Godetia Lady
Satin Rose. This grew rather less than a foot
high and continued to flower
over a long period, although
not anything like the time
that the Alyssum did. It will
be seen that it was sown in
a row about a foot wide and did
not spread much. There are
several other dwarf Godetias that
might be successfully used for the
same purpose.
The following annuals are all
dwarf and make good edgings,
though the flowers of some are
rather fugacious : Candytuft,
Virginian Stock, Mignonette, Lep-
tosiphon hybridus (should have a
sunny position), Nemophila in-
signis, Dimorphothcca aturantiaca,
Silene pendula compacta, Phacelia
campauularia and Saponaria cala-
brica. H.
i^.-Sj^
A COTTAGE HOME IN
SOMERSET.
Among the counties of England,
Somerset is one of the most
varied, both as to scenery and
geological structure. It has in
one part high moorland, in
others dense woodland and rich
valley, with wide stretches of
fertile alluvial land. Limestone,
granite and coal are all repre-
sented, besides the well-known
deposits of valuable building
stone. The long coastline to the
Severn Sea gives a certain mild-
ness and humidity very favour-
able to vegetation, and many are
the pleasant gardens attached to
such dwellings of the cottage
type as the one shown in the
illustration on the next page, that,
roofed with comfortable straw
their beautiful colours, and in some instances 1 thatch, nestle in the valleys, well sheltered by
delightful fragrance, can be enjoyed to the full, the wooded hills. G. J.
In the kitchen garden annuals are particularly
. 'h
GODETIAS AND WHITE ALYSSUM USED AS EDGINGS TO A PATHWAY.
serviceable for this purpose, because during the
winter, when it is necessary to wheel manure
on to the plots and do other heavy work, the
plants have departed, and there is no possibility
of damage such as there would be if perennials
were used for the purpose.
There is one point, however, that always ought
to be fully studied in making edgings of annuals,
i.e., a broad edging looks infinitely better than the
narrow line that one too often finds doing service
soils and stony banks, where they are most prodigal ' in gardens. The wisdom of a bold display is
in flowering, and last, though not least, Alonsoa well shown in the accompanying illustration.
A BEAUTIFUL CLIMBING ANNUAL.
IpoMCEA VERSICOLOR, somctimcs known by the
name of Mina lob at a, is one of the most
beautiful of half-hardy climbing annuals for
summer and autumn decoration. The racemes
of flowers, which are of a bright rosy crimson m
the bud, afterwards turn to orange, finally chang-
ing to pale yellow, are borne in profusion at this
time of the year. It is a very suitable plant for
covering arbours, trellis-work, unsightly walls, ot
for trailing up sticks, providing it is in the sun.
January 3, 1914]
THE GARDEN.
THE SWEET PEA IN THE
FLOWER GARDEN.
THE garden and decorative value of the
Sweet Pea has been somewhat over-
shadowed by the special attention it
has frequently received as an " exhibi-
tion " flower ; and, whUe it must never
be forgotten that it is owing to the zeal
of exhibitors and the keen competition created by
them that the raisers vied with each other in pro-
ducing the exquisite varieties now grown, yet the
Soil and Position. — While the small gardener
may not be able to have much choice of position,
there is no soil, however poor, which cannot be
improved. The most fertile soil is that whose
mechanical condition is the finest. All garden
soils contain a superabundance of plant food if
only it is available, and thus the gardener can, by
cultivation, do much to provide a soil in which the
roots can have free action, and, given this, the
Sweet Pea will flourish. If the soil be light and poor,
then a liberal supply of farmyard, and especially
cow, manure will help it, while deep digging and
incorporating plenty of lime and mortar rubble.
Sweet Pea to the full in the flower garden.
It is most effective when grown in clumps, and
clumps are very suitable for small gardens. Of
course, many people like a continuous row, and
if arranged with special regard to colour blending,
a delightful result can be obtained. Let me here
state that a motley mixture affords me no pleasure ;
hence my strong advocacy of colour blending. The
following twelve varieties, planted in a row, make a
pleasing combination : Mauve, Tennant Spencer ;
white, Etta Dyke ; deep cream pink, Constance
Oliver ; lavender, Florence Nightingale ; cream,
I Clara Curtis ; pale pink. Countess Spencer ; blue
AN OLD THATCHED COTTAGE, VVITH GARDEN, IN SOMERSETSHIRE.
Sweet Pea is first and essentially a " decorative "
flower, and one which adorns with equal grace
and beauty the garden of the cottage or the
mansion, and also one that will thrive and pro-
duce a wealth of blossom in almost every kind
of soil, and often in most unfavourable positions.
The value of such a flower for those whose gardens
and resources are limited cannot be over-estimated,
and it is to such that these notes are mainly directed.
Undoubtedly the " high culture" advocated by exhi-
bitors has been a hindrance to the universal accept-
ance of the Sweet Pea as an indispensable item in
every garden, and the high price of seed has also con-
tributed thereto. These hindrances no longer exist,
combined with winter frosts, will break up the
heaviest of clays.
Preparing the Soil. — This work should be done
only when the soil is in good condition. Deep
digging and thorough cultivation are essential. It is
wise to get the ground ready as early in the autumn
as possible ; yet it is far better to wait for a dry
February than to attempt deep digging during wet
weather.
Varieties. — -For garden and decorative use,
those varieties which by experience have been
proved to be of sterling merit and not novelties
should be grown. The small grower has now
nothing to prevent him from utilising the
shades. Flora Norton Spencer ; picotee (white
ground), Elsie Herbert ; crimson, Maud Holmes ;
lilac. Winsome ; bicolor, Mrs. A. Ireland ; and
dark maroon, Nubian.
Sweet Peas in Clumps. — In this way the finest
combinations and effects are seen. Plant in trian-
gular form (five plants will make a clump), and some
very beautiful results will reward the effort. Cream,
lavender and pale pink ; maroon, lavender and
bicolor (Mrs. Ireland) ; mauve, white picotee and
cream ; crimson, white and blue ; French grey,
mauve and white — these and many other combina-
tions which appeal to each individual can be had.
The following excellent varieties can all be obtained
10
THE GARDEN.
[January 3, 1914.
THE HERBACEOUS OR
M IXED BORDER.
H U W 1 U
o
^m?/^/
\ YEW HEDGE AT BACK OF BORDER, SHOWING
HOW IT IS TRIMMED AND ROOT PRUNED.
A — Narrow trenches 1 foot deep. B, B — The spade is thrust
down on lines, severing all roots in its way. C — Flower border.
D — Alley. E — Space in which tfte roots are confined.
in cheap packets : Apple Blossom Spencer, Asta
Ohn, Clara Curtis, Constance Oliver, Countess
Spencer, Elsie Herbert, Etta Dyke, Flora Norton
Spencer, Florence Nightingale, Frank Dolby, John
Ingman, Maud Holmes, Mrs. Ireland, Mrs. H.
Sykes, Mrs. C. W. Breadmore, Mrs. Townsend,
Nubian, Tennant Spencer, Winsome and Lady
Grisel Hamilton, Lord Nelson and Dorothy Eckford
of the grandiflora varieties. It will be noticed
that I have excluded all those varieties which
require shading and protection from the inclement
weather in order to produce their true colours, as
such varieties cannot be classed " useful garden
flowers." Of the Sweet Pea from the floral decora-
tive point of view much can be written, as few
flowers lend themselves more readily for the table
decoration, the button-hole or the bouquet, &c.,
and to a Sweet Pea lover no present is nicer
than a bunch of these lovely flowers.
The Sowing of Seed : Spring Sowing. — Space
does not permit of a full treatment of the relative
values of autumn or spring sowing, or of outdoor
or indoor sowing. Suffice it now to say that the
most satisfactory method for the small grower is
to raise the seedlings in a 5-inch pot, which will well
hold the five seeds of each variety grown. In
January or February sow in good soil half an
inch deep, with sufficient sand to keep the soil open.
The seeds with whitish coats require more sand
than the others, and less water, as they do not
germinate so well and rot more easily. Place near
the Ughts directly the seedlings appear, and give
cool treatment until mid- April, when they can be
transplanted into their permanent quarters.
Staking. — This subject will receive special treat-
ment in a separate article shortly ; but for the small
garden, the tallest and twiggiest of Hazel sticks
form the most artistic and satisfactory supports.
During the summer keep the hoe going to check
both weeds and evaporation, and rigidly use the
knife in denuding the plants of every faded blossom
before the seed pod can form. In this way the
supply of blossoms can be continued well into
the autumn, and the Sweet Pea will prove
itself to be the Queen of Annuals, and one
pre-eminently suited to small gardens as well as
to those of tlie mansion. S. M. Crow.
HOW TO MAKE AND MAINTAIN IT.
INION tends to the word " her-
baceous " being used as a general
term to include plants hardy and
semi-tender, evergreen and suffruti-
cose, fibrous and bulbous rooted,
of annual, biennial and perennial
duration, the one requirement of importance
being suitability for decorative gardening. At
a not far distant date it required some
courage to define a Lily or an annual
Lobelia as herbaceous, and perhaps Dr.
Samuel Johnson's definition " belonging
to an herb," just as a herbaceous
animal was one whose food was herbs,
in contradistinction to a carnivorous or
flesh-eating animal, gives the original
meaning. Earlier tlian Dr. Johnson were
" annuals, perannuals and vivacious "
plants, all now fitly comprehended m
the one name — herbaceous.
Somewhat similarly the herba-
ceous border has become the receptacle
of a greater number of plants of
diversified characteristics than practitioners a
century ago knew of. And it is to those
who boldly introduced Dahlias, Roses, Sweet
Peas, Pansies and other odds and ends of the
vegetable kingdom into their borders that we
are indebted for the breaking down of the wall of
partition between the old-time strictly herbaceous
border and the modem border and garden of all
sorts. These remarks lead me to say that in the
notes which follow there will be formd no arbitrary
botanical distinctions, so long as plants provide
their quota of beauty of colour or of form, or both,
that will be esteemed a sufficiently good reason
to include them among herbaceous plants.
Position is of slight importance. Any exposure
suits, but the plants flower earlier or later accord-
ingly, and late-flowering species should never
be planted where the chances are
against them flowering at all. Shelter
from wind is very important, and
where there is none it must be pro-
vided. A wall is not nearly so
protective as a tall hedge or living
screen, which disintegrates the
volumes of forceful air into minute
and impotent particles, whereas the
wind sweeps over a wall in gusts,
which, swirling among the plants,
twist them about confusedly. The
wall itself ought, therefore, to be pro-
tected by efficient vegetation. In
connection with shelter, that of a
proper backing may be considered.
The handsomest in summer is a tall
trellis furnished with Roses, or with
these and other climbers, the co.rrivc
thsy may remain unpacked, but kept in the mat-
ting until they are to be planted. Afterwards
do not mulch with heavy farmyard manure. This
is apt to keep the soil 'cold and wet; indeed, I
believe we lose more Roses through this cause
than from any other. A few pieces of Bracken or
other dry material will be all that is neccssarv to
protect them from frost.
Plants Under Glass.
Carnations. — The greatest possible care should
be exercised in watering at this season, particularly
those of the Malmaison type. Over-watering at
this time often leads to rust, which should be
guarded against at all costs. Indeed, tmtil about
the middle of next month very little water will
be required. Admit air freely, and only use fire-
heat on damp, foggy days.
Carnation Rust. — Keep a snarp look-out for
the Carnation rust, which makes its appearance
at this season and spreads with alarming rapidity.
.•\s soon as any spots are detected, cut away the
affected grass and bum it.
Cuttings of the Perpetual-flowering varieties
should be inserted new. Better results will, in all
probability, be obtained from cuttings rooted now
than from those rooted earlier. For rooting I
find nothing better than boxes filled with pure
sand and placed in a house where there is a little
bottom-heat. Should the cuttings be sturdy, they
will not require to be covered with glass.
Late Chrysanthemums will still provide a fair
amoimt of flowers, but provision must be made to
keep up the supply. Place a few Azalea mollis
and Lilacs into heat, and I'reesias may be gently
forced.
Cyclamen, — I know of no plants that give
more satisfaction at this season of the year
than some well-grown Cyclamen, the variety
Salmon Queen being particularly attractive.
Begonia Gloire dc Lorraine will be getting over,
and should be partly cut back and kept on the
dry side for a time. Plants that have been used
for house decoration are seldom much good for
producing cuttings, and it will be just as well to
do away with them at once.
Violets in Frames. — In unheated structures the
greatest care should be taken in admitting air,
and see that all decayed leaves are picked oft' and
burnt. Keep pinching rimners off, and stir the
soil between the plants frequently with a hand-
fork. I find a sprmlding of ground lime betxveen
the plants tends to keep them in a healthy, growing
state.
Fruits Under Glass.
Peaches. — No time should oe lost in com-
pleting the washing of the houses and trees and
tying up the shoots, as the buds soon begm to
swell with the increased sim-heat. In arranging
the shoots, overcrowding cannot be too strongly
condemned ; 4 inches between the shoots will
be a good guide. After attending to the border,
finish up by giving the pipes a coating of lamp-
black ; it gives the house a much cleaner appear-
ance, besides preserving the pipes.
Vines. — By this time most of the work in the
vineries should be completed. Unless in the case
of rods infested with mealy bug, the scraping of
them, even with a blunt knife, should never be
resorted to. All that is required is to rub off any
loose bark with the hand.
Painting the Rods. — I know of nothing more
efiectual than a mixture of soft soap, sulphur and
a little petroleum, mixed in boiling water, for this
purpose. Brush this well into the rods and spurs
with a stiff paint brush, which should destroy any
eggs that may be lodged there ; besides, this
preparation is an excellent preventive in warding
off red spider. John Highg.ite,
(Gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow)
Hopetoun Gardens, Soulh Qnccnsferry, N.li.
January 3, 1914.
THE GARDEN.
15
VEGETABLE SEEDS FOR
SPRING AND SUCCES-
SIONAL SOWING.
WITH such a host of varieties of vege-
tables it must be extremely per-
plexing to many, and especially
to those who are amateurs, to
decide which to select when pre-
paring the seed order at this
season ; consequently a list of standard varieties, as
mentioned below, and the time for sowing, with
other particulars, may, I trust, be of some service
to those who have not had the opportunity, as
some of us have, of testing the varieties named. At
the same time, I should like it to be clearly under-
stood that some localities and soils are more suited
to certain sorts than others, and, to a certain extent,
common sense must be the guiding factor as to
this ; the same applies to the dates of sowing
and the conditions of the weather and soil. It
should always be borne in mind that it costs just
as much to cultivate inferior varieties as it does the
better ones, and though the initial cost of the
seeds may be slightly more, the results will more
than compensate for the extra outlay.
Preparation of the Soil. — It is of the utmost
importance that the ground in all cases should be
well drained and deeply and well worked during
the winter and early spring. Light, porous soil
is best trenched or deeply dug during the autumn
and winter, while that of a stiff, retentive nature is
better when worked in early spring. Everything
should be done, as far as possible, to ensure a fine
tilth by the time for seed-sowing. Though dates
are given, it must not be assumed that it is im-
perative for sowing the seed strictly at such time.
The weather, of course, has to be considered as
well as the nature of the soil. It is far better to
wait for two or even three weeks than to make any
attempt, especially on stiff, pasty soils, to sow fine
seeds. At the same time, no opportunity should
be missed for so douig. Probably the most common
mistake made in relation to vegetable culture is
sowing the seed too thickly ; this is a fault which
applies not only to the cottager and amateur,
but very largely to professional gardeners.
All sorts of excuses are raised for so doing ; but,
providing the soil is good, as it should be, I have
never yet found a satisfactory excuse. It is a
mere waste of seed, and overcrowding means in
all cases imsatisfactory results. A golden rule, and
one I have always tried to follow, is to sow just
about as thick again as is needed, and thin to the
desired distance as soon as the crop is practically
assured.
GARDENING ACROSTICS.
Those entering for the acrostics must observe
the rules published on page 607 of the issue of
December 6, 1913.
DOUBLE ACROSTIC No. 5.
A beautiful hardy spring-flowering shrub whose
shoots are wreathed, when well grown, with golden
bells.
Firsts — Its generic name.
Lasts — A synonym of its more usual
name.
1. The surname of the author of what is
tlie most beautiful of all herbals."
2. The hardiest Daisy Tree.
3. Once used as a charm ; hence my popular
name.
4. Not quite.
5. Sacred in the Flowery Land. Its colour and
its name.
6. A charm — text and symbol.
7. The result of mating two species of the same
genus.
specific
' perhaps
8. " The King of Irises."
9. Hyacinthus non-scriptus. Why ? What is
supposed to be wanting ?
Solutions of the foregoing must be sent so as to reach
the Editor at 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden,
London, W.C., not later than the first post on Saturday,
January 10. Mark the envelope "Acrostic" in
the top left-hand corner.
SOLUTION AND
ACROSTIC
Firsts — " Ars Topiaria."
Lasts — La Fragonine.
NOTES
No. 3.
tt
M
§§
A
R
S
T
O
P
1
A
R
1
A
NDREW Marvel
OF
L
A
F
R
A
G
O
N
I
N
E
Name of Variety.
Wlien to Sow.
W/tere to Soil).
Open ground . . . .
DixU-ince
between
Hows.
aft
8tt
10ft. .
7ft.
Warm border 4ft 4 to Sin. Soutfi
Open ground 4ft oin Any open
Soutli . .
Any open ,
Warm border
Open
3ft.
round 10 to 12
15in. .
16in. .
Cold frame 3ft. . . .
Open ground 3ft. . . .
,, 3ft. ...
3ft.
Cold frame 3ft.
2ft.
Pea Gradus March and April
Pea Duke of Albany .... First week in April
Pea Quite Content Middle of April ....
Pea Autocrat May and June ....
Broad Bean Leviathan . . February and March
Broad Bean Broad Windsor April and May ....
French Beau Dwarf
Canadian Wonder .... .Middle of May ....
llxmner Bean Scarlet
Emperor ,, ,, ....
Beet Globe Early April
Beet Dell's Red First week in May
Broccoli Michaelmas White First week in April
Broccoli Christmas White Second week in April
Broccoli Model Middle week in April
Broccoh Dwarf Green
Curled
Brussels Sprout Dwarf
Gem Middle week in March
Cabbage Ellam's Early . . End of July Open
Cabbage Rosette May ,,
Savoy Drumhead April ,,
Cauliflower Walchereu .. Middle of September Open, winter in frames
Cauliflower Magnum Bonum .March Gentle heat under glass
Cauliflower Early Giant . . April Open
Carrot Early Nantes .... March ,
Carrot New Intermediate April ,
Celery Invincible 'nTiite . . February to March Gentle heat under glass
Celery Aldenham Pink . . March ,, ,,
Leek Prizetaker January ,, ,,
Vegetable Marrow Moore's
Cream April In heat under glass
Vegetable Marrow Long
Green ,, ,.
Onion James' March, early Open ground 12in,
Onion Nuneham Park ... . ,, ,, ,, ,, ]2in
Onion Globe Tripoli .... Third week in Aug. ,, ,, 12in,
Parsnip Tender and True February ,, ,, 18in.
Turnip Early Milan March Open 9in.
Turnip Snowball April to September , 12in.
Turnip Prizetaker Aug. to Sept 12in,
Tomato Sunrise March Under glass, in heat . . 8ft.
Potato May Queen . . , Open ground 2ft.
Potato Windsor Castle .. .\prU ,, ,, 3ft.
Potato Up-to-Date ,, ,, 3ft.
Distance
between
Plants.
■1 to 3in.
3 to 4in.
0 to Sin.
3 to 4in.
Aspect.
iLVER Lea
HOMAS TUSSE
LBI
OPERIN
NDIG
COR
HODANTHE MaNGLESI
NULI
N AVENU
Firsts — Tile " Ars Topiaria " was introduced to
Rome by Matius, the liriend of Julius Caesar. Part
of the gardens of Pliny's Tuscan villa was so
fashioned. — Johnson's " History of Gardening,"
pages 23 and 23. Lasts — La Fragonine.
Differently-coloured Butcher's Broom has been
lately introduced in France by M. Charles Moquet
for decorating the garden in winter. * Andrew
Marvel], 1621 — 1678. His earlier poems contain
much information about the gardens of his day.
Among others are " Upon Appleton House,"
" Tlie Nymph and the Fawn," " The Mower
Against Gardens " and " The Garden," of which
tliis is tlie last verse, t Jolin Rea, who wrote
" Flora, Ceres and Pomona " quite in the style
of a modern book on dowers without any refer-
ences to the medicinal virtues of the plants he
When Ready.
Warm, sheltered border
Any open
Soil
.\lniost any June and early July
., .. ' .Middle of July
Good, rich soil .... End of July
Almost any August and September
Good, deeply worked End of June and early July
,. ,, July and August
6iu.
12in.
Any
Good, deeply tilled
July
I'irst to second week Aug.
61n Warm border Any End of June and July
9in.
2Jft.
2ift.,
2ift..
2ift. .
.\ny open Light to medium . . iliddle of August
,] ,, Any firm September and October
,, ,. ,", ,, November and December
, , , , .\pril and Blay
,, , ,, ,, Winter and spring
12in.
2*ft..
25ft..
2Jft..
Sft. .
lOiu.
15hi.
6ft. .
6ft. .
.5ft. .
2ift. .
ijft.
12in.
2ft. .
2ft.
2ft.
2ift. .
Warm border
Any open ....
12ft.
12ft..
3m
4 to 6in.
12in. . .
12in. . .
12in. . .
6ft
6ft
4 to 6in.
4 to 6in.
6 to 91n.
10m. . .
4 to 6in.
9in
9in
3ft
2Diu. . .
2tt
2ft
Warm border Light and sandy
Open ,, ,,
Any open Good, rich ....
Any sheltered, sunny
Any good, rich .
Any open Very rich
March and onwards
Autumn and winter
June
July
August and September
June
Autumn and winter
August to November
November to Marcli
Autumn and winter
July till frost
Autumn and winter
,, ., Any good Late spring and summer
., , Light and sandy .... Autumn, winter and spring
Warm border Poor soil ....." Early June
Any open Any 12 to 16 weeks from sowing
,, ,, . , , , ,,* Winter and early spring
Sunny, sheltered Any poor August and September
Warm, sheltered Any good light .... June
Any open ,, ,, .August
,, , ,, .. .... .\utumn, winter and spring
Edwin" Beckett.
16
THE GARDEN.
[January 3, 1914-
describes. t A well-known disease affecting
different kinds of trees. See Mr. Lynch's articles
in The Garden for November 22 and 29, 1913-
§ Thomas Tusser, who published in 1557 " An
Hundreth Good Pointes of Husbandry," enlarged
in 1573 to " Five Hundreth Good Pointes of
Husbandry." |1 Lavatera Olbia Award of merit,
Royal Horticultural Society, June 18, 1912.
Pictured in Vol. XXXVHI., Part 2. of the Journal,
and described by John Abercroinbie in his " General
System of Trees and Shrubs." H Warden
Pears and Popering Pears were two well-known
varieties of Shakespeare's time. Leland was
Rector of Popering. — Ellacombe's " Plant Lore
and Garden Craft of Shakespeare," first edition,
page 154. ** The Woad-growers of Germany
gave indigo the name of Devil's Dye because it
began to take the place of woad in dyeing. —
Friend's " Flowers and Flower Lore," page 63.
tt The cup of the Acorn is botanically called a
cupula, tt Rhodaathe Manglesii is a pretty
pink annual, often grown in pots. Its flowers
keep their colour a long time when dried. A
native of Australia. §§ As starch is stored in
cereals and cane sugar in Beetroot, so
inulin is stored in Dahlia tubers. |||| Repton
was a celebrated landscape gardener of the
" natural " school. He seems to have
rspecially disliked formal avenues. — Cecil's
" History of Gardening in Fjigland," third
edition, page 258.
RESULT OF ACROSTIC No. 2.
In accordance with our rules, eleven marks
were possible in this acrostic, one for each
correct light and one for each correct " first "
and " last." The following marks have been
awarded :
Eleven marks. — Ernest Ballard, " Tor
toise," " Mowgti," R. Chapman, " Shelah,"
'■ Penwarne," " Rusticus," " Scotia " and
" W. R. D."
Ten marks. — " Ping," " Tentamen," Wm.
Bond, "Tempus Fugit," L. Bigg- Wither,
" Miller," " Hero," J. Coupland, " Elm,"
" Judith," G. Tolson, Miss G. H. Jeffreys,
I.. A. Louden, G. B. Bassett, " Rustic,"
" White Lady," " S. W. P.," G. D. King,
" .\nna Olivier," "Nautilus" and Miss
Marindin.
Nine marks. — " Jan," " E. C. F.,"
" W. J. W.," " Boarsvale," Miss E. A.
Patch, ■■ Westbank," " R. P. B.," " M. M.,"
A. Henderson, H. J. Giblett and "St.
Kevins."
Eight marks. — " Briarbank," Wm. Acwurth
and " P. P."
Seven marks. — Mrs. Devenish.
Two marks. — Wm. Slocombe.
RESULT OF ACROSTIC No. 3.
According to our rules, thirteen marks were
possible in this acrostic, one for each correct light
and one for each correct " first " and " last."
The following marks have been awarded :
Twelve marks. — " White Lady," L. A. Louden,
" Ping," " Hero," " Westbank," " Nautilus " and
" Jan."
Eleven marks. — R. Chapman and " Boarsvale."
Ten marks. — " Elm," " W. R. D." and
" Rusticus."
Nine marks. — " Miller" arid Wm. Acworth.
Eight marks. — " St. Kevins," " Judith " and
G. D. King.
Seven marks. — " Tortoise."
Five marks. — " W. J. W."
Four marks. — " Rustic " and Ernest Ballard.
Three marks. — " Tempus Fugit," " Iris " and
" Penwarne."
One mark. — " M. M."
OBITUARY.
SIR TREVOR LAWRENCE, BART.
IT is with the deepest regret that we have to
announce the death of Sir Trevor Lawrence,
Bart., which occurred late on Monday
night, December 22, at his residence,
Burford, near Dorking. Sir Trevor was
well known in horticultural circles, having
for twenty-eight years acted as President to the
Royal Horticultural Society, a position which he
relinquished so recently as February, r9i2.
I whom he came in contact, and by his death horti-
culture loses one whom it mil not be easy to
replace. We had the pleasure, by special per-
mission, of dedicating the sixty-ninth volume of
The Garden to him. Sir Trevor leaves a widow,
three sons and a daughter, to whom we tender
our deepest sympathy.
The funeral took place at St. Michael's, Mickle-
ham, on Saturday, the 27th ult. Among those
present were Lady Lawrence, Sir William and
Lady Lawrence, Sir Albert Rollit, Sir Jeremiah
Colman, Bart., Lieutenant-Colonel Sir David
Prain, Professor Bateson and Mr. Thomas McRow.
A memorial service was held at Holy Trinity
Church, Kensington Gore, on the same day.
Among those who attended this service were the
following members of the Council of the Royal
Horticultural Society : Baron Bruno von Schroder,
Sir Harry J. Veitch, Sir Daniel Morris, Messrs.
Arthur W. Sutton, W. A. Bilney, E. A. Bowles,
H. B. May and the Rev. W. Wilks (secre-
tary). Mr. D. W. Thompson, representing
the Royal College of Horticulture, Edin-
burgh, was also present.
THE LATE SIR TREVOR LAWRENCE, BART.
He was bom on December 30, i83r, and was
the only surviving son of the first Baronet, William
Lawrence, Fellow of the Royal Society and
Sergeant-Surgeon to Queen Victoria. Sir Trevor
was educated at Winchester, and studied medicine
at St. Bartholomew's Hospital, afterwards serving
ten years in the Indian Medical Seri'ice, viz.,
from r853 to 1863, which covered the period of
the Mutiny. He was a Member of Parliament
from 1875 to 1892, first for the Mid-Surrey Division
and later for the Reigate Division. Sir Trevor
always took a keen interest in hospital work, and for
twelve years acted as treasurer to St. Bartholomew's
Hospital. In horticultural circles he was one ol the
best-known personages of his day, and to his initia-
tive and energy the Royal Horticultural Society
owes not a little of its present prosperity. He
was a great Orchid enthusiast, and his private
collection was one of the best in the country.
His genial majiner endeared him to all those with
W. COLLINS.
With deep regret we have to an-
nounce the death of the late esteemed
secretary of the United Horticultural Benefit
and Provident Society, which took place at
9 p.m. on the 21st ult. Mr. Collins underwent
a successful operation for stricture in Novem-
ber, and was progressing favourably until
about ten days before his death, when he
contracted a chill and pleurisy supervened,
the end coming quite suddenly and unex-
pectedly. Every expression of sympathy
and respect was shown when the remains
were laid to rest in Streatham Cemetery on
Saturday, the 27th ult. The first portion of
the Burial Service, which was most impres-
sive, was conducted by the Canon at the
Church of .Ascension, BaUiam Hill, and thence
to the Cemetery, where a large circle of
friends had gathered to witness the last
rites of their respected friend. Among the
numerous and beautiful floral tributes which
were sent was a magnificent harp with a
broken strmg, " From the Members of the
United Horticultural Benefit and Provi-
dent Society. A token of respect and
esteem for our late Secretary, who for
twenty-five years faithfully served the
Society." Messrs, J. Wheeler, A. Stan-
bridge, E. Burge, T. Winter (treasurer)
and A. C. Hill (secretary) represented the
societv.
JOHN MATTOCK.
It is with regret that we announce the death of
the well-known rosarian, Mr. John Mattock of
Headington, near Oxford. Mr. Mattock was
a native of Bath, but moved to Headington about
forty years ago, where he grew Roses with marked
success. He was particularly successful in the
cultivation and exhibition of Tea Roses, the soi 1
of the neighbourhood being specially suited to
this section. Mr. Mattock died on December 22
last at the age of seventy-six years.
Books Ueceiteu.
"The Four Gardens," bv " Handasydi'." I'ublishud lj.v
\V. Hclaemann, 21, Bedford Strevt, Straud ; price
Os. net.
•■ The Herbaceous Garden, ' by .Mrs. IMiilip Martliioau.
Published bv Williams and Xornalc 14, H.iirii'tta
Stiwt, Covrat Gardrii, W.t'. ; prii-c Vs. lid. n.'l.
GARDEN.
-^
-yfS'-
^OJ^^
No. 2199.--V0L. LXXVIIT.
JANUARY 10, I914.
CONTENTS.
Notes of the Week 17
Correspondence
Laiirustinus lucidus 18
Nevember hardy
Chrysanthemums . 18
December lioses . . 19
The Columbines . . 19
Ruddleia Colvill ei
flowering outdoors
on Christmas Day 19
Forthcoming events . . 19
The herbaceous or
mixed border . . . . 19
Fragrant-leaved trees
and shrubs . . . . 20
Plant grouping for
effect 20
Seasonable notes on
vegetables . . . . 21
Silvery leaved plants 21
Two interesting Bell-
flowers 21
A beautiful hardy
Primula 22
In a Hampshire garden 22
New Rose lona Herd-
man 23
Cultural hints on new
and rare plants . . 23
Epacrises for winter
flowers 24
Seasonable notes on
Carnations . . . . 24
Carnation Salmon King 24
Gardening for Beginners
How to plan and crop
a garden with vege-
tables 25
A beautiful plant for
hedges 25
Gardening of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 26
For Northern gar-
dens . . .... 26
The ideal orchard for
small houses . . . . 27
Gardening acrostics . . 27
Answers to C! 0 k r k-
spondents
Flower garden . . 28
Greenhouse . . . . 28
Fruit garden . . . . 28
^Miscellaneous . . . . 28
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
ILLUSTRATIONS.
The Prophet Flower IS
Phlox : Showing depth to plant 19
Herbaceous flowers in a Sussex garden 20
The grey-leaved Lavender Cotton in rnid\vinter . . 21
Primula pulverulenta Mrs. Berkeley 22
The new gold medal Rose lona Herdman 23
The Perpetual-flowering Carnation Salmon King . . 24
How to plan and crop a garden with vegetables . . 25
EDITORIAL! NOTICBS.
Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.
The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
but he will not be responsible for their sale return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and whsre stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.
As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the. price required for reproduction he plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual ph-ito-
grapher or ownsr of the copyright will be treated with.
The Editor will iwt be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.
Offices : 20. Taristock .Street. Corent (larden. IV. C.
Our Special New Year Number. — We wish
to thank the very many readers who have so
kindly sent us letters of appreciation respecting
our Special New Year Number, published last
week. It is gratifying to know that our efforts
are so widely and so warmly appreciated.
Mossy Saxifrages in Winter. — At the present
time, when most of the occupants of the rock
garden are looking far from happy, the brilliant
green of the foliage of some of the Mossy Saxi-
frages is very pleasing. One of the best in this
respect is S. hypnoides gemmifera, which spreads
freely and forms a dense carpet of vivid green
that contrasts well with the sombre hue of the
rocks. S. muscoides and S. decipiens Stembergii
are two others that are very effective.
An Attractive Berried Shrub. — The majority
of Cotoneasters are valued for their attractive
fruits, which help to brighten up the garden
during the autumn and winter. One of the
most valuable for this purpose is Cotoneaster
affinis, a deciduous Himalayan species often
growing into a good-sized tree, when it is an object
of beauty, bearing a large crop of fruits, which
are an excellent substitute for Holly berries when
there has been a scarcity of them, such as has
been the case in some places this year.
Primula malacoides. — This charming little
Chinese Primula is very highly appreciated, and is
quite a feature in many greenhouses with its pale
pink flowers. Although it may be hardy, in some
districts it flowers so late that it is more satis-
factory as a greenhouse plant, being well adapted
for that purpose. It is quite easily grown, while
its free-flowering habit and the time it remains
in bloom, combined with the season of the year it
flowers, make it a very valuable plant. The white
form, although very pretty, can hardly be con-
sidered an improvement on the type.
Javanese Rhododendrons. — Unlike all the other
Rhododendrons, the various garden forms obtained
by the intercrossing of R. jasminiflorum, R. javani-
cum and other species, natives of the Malayan
Archipelago, flower more or less continuously
throughout the year. They are sometimes referred
to as greenhouse Rhododendrons, but this is .such
an 'elastic term that it conveys but little. If a
greenhouse is regarded as a structure from which
frost is just excluded and nothing more, it will
not be warm enough to do full justice to these
beautiful flowers. They need a minimum night
temperature of 50° to 55°, with a rise of 10° to 15°
during the day ; a fairly moist atmosphere is also
necessary to their well-doing.
Hippeastrums. — These brilliant greenhouse
flowers have been much improved in the hands
of the hybridist of late years. The flowers
most sought after are of good colour without
the green base, and having the perianth so arranged
that the segments overlap one another without
showing daylight between. The flowering bulbs
should now be placed in heat and given every
encouragement in the way of top-dressing and
subsequent stimulants, in order that they will
send up good, strong inflorescences.
Strawberry Fruits in December. — While visit-
ing the gardens at Amberwood in Hampshire on
December 17, we noticed many fine trasses of fruits
in various stages of development on plants growing
in the open borders. Many flowers were to be seen
in various parts of the two large plantations, and or>
close inspection it was foimd that both spikes
in flower and those bearing fruits were growuig
from side crowns or runners very close to the
parent plants. Numbers of fruits were as large
as Wahiuts. The variety was Royal Sovereign.
Roses in Windy Situations. — After the frost
experienced a week ago, it will be advisable to
look over the Rose-beds, particularly in windy
situations and where the soil is heavy clay. A
day or two ago we noticed that a number of bushes
had been blown about so much as to cause a collar
of soil round the stem, and this was in some
instances fdled with water. The soil ought to
be broken up and then made firm round the stem,
and, if necessary, a stake put in to support the
bush. Newly planted Roses will probably have
been loosened by the frost, and where this is so,
the soil must be made firm without delay.
The Sea Buckthorn. — No\v that the berries
of many hardy trees and shrubs have been devoured
by birds, the value of the Sea Buckthorn, Hippophae
rhamnoides, is more fully appreciated. By the
lakeside at Kew there are some large bushes
covered with the translucent orange-coloured
berries, which are very beautiful indeed when kissed
by the winter sun. Although this is a rather
slow-growing shrub, it is not fastidious as to
soil and situation, but care must be taken to plant
one male bush to about every eight or nine of
those capable of bearing fruit, otherwise the
berries will not be formed.
A Beautiful White-Stenlmed Bramble. — At
the present time the outer fringe of the garden,
just where it merges into the woodland, owes
most of its charm and interest to those shrubs
with either coloured stems, fruits or leaves. In
the first category we have Dogwoods, Willows,
Brambles and several other kinds that might
with advantage be more extensively planted
for winter effect. A new Bramble from China
named Rubus giraldianus promises to be par-
ticularly valuable in this respect. It sends up a
colony of stout stems some 8 feet high,
which are almost as white as driven snow, and
as they are pendulous, a well-grown bush forms
a very striking and beautiful feature in the land-
scape. In planting these coloured-stemmed shrubs
it should be remembered that the best effect is
obtained when a background of dark-leaved
conifers or other evergreens is secured
18
THE GARDEN.
[January io. 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondmts.)
Arum Flowering Outdoors on Christmas Day .—
I th.night it might interest sonie of your readers to
hear that there was an Arum, or Lily of the Nile, in
flower outdoors on Christmas Day at a cottage
near here. The plants have been outside all the
year roimd. They do not generally flower before
AprU. — F. O'CoNNELL, Darrinane fjibbey, Water-
ville, County Kerry, Ireland.
Permanent Netting for Fruit Trees.— Those
who suffer much from birds among the bush fruits
(and who does not ?) would do well to consider,
if they have not already done so, the advisa-
bility of erecting wire-netting as a permanent
protection. We did so here last year,
with most gratifying results. In the
vicinity of trees it is well only to
enclose the break with 6-feet netting.
and in the fruit season cover the top
with good tanned netting, or else to
have the overhead netting in span-roof
form to throw off the falling leaves in
autumn. The birds are most persistent
romid the sides. Last season, although
we supplied water to the birds in
saucers, we could not make one break of
small fruits bird-proot, even with double
tanned nets. — C. Comfort. Midlothian.
Laurustinus lucidus. — One may
pass through many a good garden and
never see a bush of this beautiful shrub,
with its handsome, polished foliage and
large cymes, 3J inches across, ot half-
ineh-wide, pure white blooms and rosy
tipped buds. Its beauty has been con-
spicuous of late, for whereas it is normally
a spring-flowering shrub, the imusually
mild weather in November and early
December has pushed it forward into
a flowering state and the bloom has been
perfect and abundant. It is a little
tenderer than the other garden kinds,
the hardiest being the Black Laurus-
tinus that has "[the handsome berries
with the blue metallic lustre ; but
anywhere south of London it is likely
to do well in a sheltered place. The
whole growth is rather more free
than that of the common Laurustinus,
and, although the bloom is so much
larger, it is a more refined flower and
has also a certain kind of graceful port
that is wanting in the more stiff and
twiggy common kind. — G. J.
Peculiarities of Mistletoe. — Herefordshire being
mentioned by " C. Q." on page 644, December 27
issue, as being favourable to the finding of Mistletoe
in its orchards, gave me, as a Herefordian, an
added interest in the reading of the article. May
I ask if any reason is given, or can be suggested,
why Mistletoe refuses to grow on Pear trees ?
assuming such to be the case. I happened to
read an article in a contemporary last Christmas-
time on Mistletoe, and the Pear tree was given
by the writer as a tree upon which it had been
found. But this may have been a mistake on
his part. I cannot recollect seeing Mistletoe
on a Pear tree anywhere ; neither can my father,
who has had much to do with orchards all his
life ; nor another Herefordshire fruit-grower of
whom enquiries have been made since the appear-
ance of your article in The Garden. In addition
to the trees mentioned by " C. Q.," perhaps I
may add the name of the Elm as a host of the
Mistletoe, for it is to be found on this tree about
ten minutes' walk from my parents' home. —
C. Turner, Highgate.
The Prophet Flower (Arnebia echioides). —
.Amebia is an Arabian name applied to a genus
included in the Natural Order Boraginea and
allied to Lithospermum. The species echioides,
meaning Echium-hke, is remarkable for its singular
flowers. These are of a primrose yellow colour,
with a purple, almost black, spot on the lobes of
the corolla. The curious thing is that the dark
spot gradually disappears in a few days. The
botanist Miiller long ago observed that many
flowers of Boragineae in the course of individual
development seem to recapitulate the evolution
THE PROPHET FLOWER (ARNEBIA ECHIOIDES). THE BLACK
SPOTS DISAPPEAR FROM THE BLOSSOMS AFTER A FEW DAYS.
of their colours, and he instanced this theory
by the blue and violet species of Myosotis, Anchusa
and Symphytum, which gave white and rose
red varieties apparently by reversion to more
primitive characters. Possibly the colour change
in Amebia echioides is due to the same cause,
but it is worth noting that it is only as the flowers
age that the spots disappear. Another theory,
and one which seems more probable, is that the
colour change may be an adaptation to show
the more intelligent insects which are the useful
and, incidentally, the tmpollinated flowers. The
illustration clearly depicts young flowers with
dark spots, and older flowers in which the spots
are fading away. By reason of its peculiarity
this Oriental plant is popularly known as the
Prophet Flower. It is a much valued subject
for the rock garden, and although difficulty is
sometimes found in increasing the stock, this
may be accomplished by taking cuttings of strong
roots and inserting them in sandy soil in gentle
heat. It may also be increased by seeds. — C. Q.
Saxifraga'^hrunoniana. — This is a distinct and
beautiful Chinese novelty which, should it prove
to be perfectly hardy, will be welcomed by all
lovers of choice alpines. It is also a distinct
addition to its genus. Quite early in the season
the plant produces numerous thread-like stolons
or rimners, which in the fullest simlight assume
a brilliant red colour ; hence it should be grown
where so good an attribute may be seen to the
best advantage. Later on in June and July
the plant bears a profusion of golden yellow
flowers. It is readily increased by layering the
runner-like shoots. — E. J.
The Golden Mohur. — While glanc-
ing through the " Answers to Corre-
spondents " in your last issue of
The Garden, I noticed the reply
under the heading, " The Golden
Mohur." If I am not mistaken, I
think " G. D.," who enquired about
it, means the Gold Mohur tree,
Poinciana regia, and not what you
suggested, namely, Bassia latifolia and
Quercus dilatata. The Gold Mohur is
a medium-sized ornamental tree with
handsome feathery foliage and beautiful
reddish orange flowers. I have seen this
tree, which, by the way, is classed as a
timber tree, doing very well in most
gardens in the United Provinces,
Punjab, and also some fine, graceful
specimens in zoological gardens in
Bombay and Karachi. — J. C. Powell,
Ripley.
November Hardy Chrysanthemums.
There are a great number of Chrysan-
themums for the open garden in Sep-
tember and October, but the hardy
kinds that are the most valuable are
the ones that bloom in November,
when outdoor flowers are very scarce.
The late season, with its many mild
weeks of early winter, has been espe-
cially favoirrable to them, and I have
never before seen the deep red Julie
Lagravfere in such perfection. Are there
more of this large Pompon class ? My
November bloom begins — sometimes at
the very end of October — -with the warm
white Soeur Melanie ; then comes the
larger Cottage Pink, formerly grown
indoors under the name of Emperor of
China. It is quite hardy in all but
exceptionally cruel weather. It is much better^
out of doors, both as to bloom and leaf, for the
flower has its full strength of colouring, from the
pale, cool pink of the outer petals to the rosy
crimson of the centre. The leaves also are ot
stout texture and take a fine colour, agreeing with
that of the centre of the flower. Nearly at the
same time comes Julie Lagrav^re, with its fine
red bloom and very neat foliage. I have one
other of these large Pompons — not a very good
doer and nearly lost — called Soleil d'Or. The colour
is a strong or.mge, shading to deeper in the centre ;
a fine, rich-coloured thing as to the flower, but
with a lanky, imgainly habit. I wish I could
hear of more of this class, begmning to bloom
not earlier than the first week of NovcinlnT. —
G. Jekyll.
January io, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
19
December Roses. — One can often find a few
odd Roses in December in two years out of three,
but 1 think it is very rarely that one can find a
tree as full of bloom as is usual in June and July.
I have lately seen a weeping standard of the
variety Dorothy Perkins in flower in such pro-
fusion as to remind one of the month of Roses in
a garden in Hampshire. The position was not
a sheltered one, as the north and east winds had
full play upon the tree. I think the most notable
characteristic was the very deep, rich colour of
the blooms — much more intense than flowers
usually come of this variety earlier in the
year. — G. G.
The Columbines. — Charming alike for house
and table decorations and for the embellishment
of the garden during early summer, the Aquilegia
is worthy of more e.xtensive cultivation. The
long-spurred hybrids have been so improved upon
of late years that they are certainly worth some
consideration now that the planting season is
with us. The best results are unquestionably
obtained when a whole border or large bed can be
given up entirely to these plants, for then enough
of each colour can be used to produce an effective
display. Should the position occupied by them
be required bright in spring and autumn, bulbs
should be planted at the same time. There is a
host of subjects to choose from for early flowers,
e.g.. Tulips and Narcissi, and for a display when
the Aquilegias have passed out of flower Liliums
(such as tigrinum) or Montbretias would answer
the purpose. Although not in any way fastidious
about soil, the Aquilegia is seen at its best in a
sandy loam. — H. Turner, Seiiby Gardens.
Buddleia Colvillei Flowering Outdoors on
Christmas Day. — It is not often that one sees
Buddleia Colvillei flowering freely, especially at
this time of the year. There is, however, a plant
of this Buddleia growing in the open border in
these gardens, carrying a quantity of blossom and
flowering shoots. On Christmas Day I counted
over twenty flower-spikes fully developed, while
there were a large number of the other branches
whose flower-buds were just showing colour.
It was planted about ten years ago, and has
blossomed on three previous occasions, but never
so freely or so late in the season as this. The
flowers are distinct from all other Buddleias ;
they resemble a rosy red Pentstemon. The
foliage is a kind of silver grey. It is a strong-
growing subject, but, unlike the others, it does
not flower until it has been established for some
years. Growing in the same border as a com-
panion to the foregoing Buddleia is a large bush
of Eriobotrya japonica (the Loquat) in full flower.
It has occupied its present position about twelve
years, but this is the first time it has blossomed.
It is generally seen planted against a wall, but it
makes a magnificent bush in favoured situations.
It prefers a rather light, loamy soil, and is
readily increased by cuttuigs or layers, — F. W.
Rich, The Gardens, Elfordleigh, Plympton, South
Devon.
THE HERBACEOUS OR
MIXED BORDER.
FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
January 13. — Royal Horticultural Society's
Meeting and Exhibition at Vincent Square, West-
minster.
January 22. — Gardeners' Royal Benevolent
Institution's Annual General Meeting at Simpson's,
Strand, London.
January 27. — Royal Horticultural Society's
Meeting and Exhibition at Vincent Square, West-
minster.
HOW TO MAKE AND MAINTAIN IT.
{Continued from page 11.)
* MODERATELY light soil is suitable
/% for the great majority of herbaceous
/ % plants. Astilbes, some Lilies, some
^^^^ Irises, Helleborus major, Meconopsis
^ * wallichiana and Lobelia cardinalis
are examples of those which need a
strong soil to be satisfactory, and even these may
be induced to be fairly happy in a light soil, rotted
manure and the soil made very firm about the
plants gomg a long way to meet their require-
ments. But there is so large a variety of plants
to choose from that, unless for very special reasons,
those plants which will not thrive in the soil of
a particular garden should be left out in the
furnishing of borders.
Soil Pulverisation. — Under proper treatment
any soil ought to improve year by year and become
better adapted for all kinds of plants. Deep
cultivation is, of course, of first importance ;
but deep cultivation is not of itself enough, and
besides turning over the soil and loosening it,
all clods should be smashed, thorough pulveri-
sation having a remarkable effect for good. It
is one of the points I insist on ; yet so widely
different do the individuals in a squad of men
understand this cultural expedient that no two
PHLOX : SHOWING DEPTH TO PLANT.
ever break the clods to the same degree of fine-
ness, and the effect is apparent the succeeding
summer in the varying qualities of the crops.
In bygone days it was usual to wait two or three
years for a herbaceous border to come to its best,
and I have frequently seen people look as if they
did not credit one's word on being told the borders
here were completely furnished the first season. It is
true this cannot be done unless means are taken that
the plants shall grow with vigour, and vigour cannot
be acquired unless the soil is not only deeply
worked and knocked about till it is reduced to
fine particles, but also made rich in fertilising
materials.
The Best Manure. — I quite agree it is possible
to make soil — by the introduction of much
crude manure — too stimulating, resulting in
the production of soft and rank vegetation.
The manure, therefore, should have been laid up
for a long enough period to have lost much of its
stimulating properties, when it may be employed
abundantly without any but good effect. A
combination of horse and cow manure is to be
preferred to either alone, and all manures should
be finely comminuted and mixed thoroughly with
the soil, rather than dug into it in lumps in a
haphazard fashion. In addition to this principal
manuring, a layer of material prepared from old
Mushroom-beds, pigeon-manure, soot, wood-ashes,
old composts and surfacings of fruit borders,
with perhaps a slight addition of newly slaked
lime spread over the surface of the border previous
to planting, enables plants to make a vigorous
start. A similar dressing is also beneficial if
applied to established borders which have not
for any reason been otherwise manured.
Drainage, while non-essential in many gardens,
in others is all-important. It is not enough
to place drainage material at the bottom of
borders in the expectation that surplus water
will be removed in that way, for unless a proper
drain is provided to carry away the water, the
above expedient will simply make matters worse,
inasmuch as it will be the means of drawing into
it moisture from both sides without drying and
warming the border itself. If the border is not
more than 15 feet in width, one drain down the
middle will form a sufficient water remover.
The Ideal Management of a herbaceous border,
as regards the srjil, is to lift the plants annually,
cultivate, rearrange, and replant. Usually two
or three years elapse between these overhauls,
but at least some of the more aggressive plants
should be lifted annually, the ground evacuated,
cultivated, and the plants rearranged. It is very
important that species of Aconitum, Helenium,
Helianthus, Aster, Chrysanthemum maximum,
C. uliginosum, Rudbeckia, Senecio tanguticus
and others of a like nature should be treated thus
annually. Montbretias also yield so much better
results that it is worth while to include these
among the annual plantations. There are so many
good things among these that it is possible to
secure a different effect by rearranging these
alone in another way. I know there exists a
kind of horror at the thought of intruding a spade
among established herbaceous plants, the dear
roots being objects of much concern lest any should
be severed. May I express the conviction that
nothing better could happen to the plants next to
lifting and replanting. By digging deeply and
carefully among them they are divested of useless
roots and an improved root-run is provided,
into which new roots to take the place of
those removed quickly find their way, to the great
benefit of the plants. Manure about twelve
months old is best fitted for mi.xing with the soil
under these conditions.
Lifting and Replanting. — On occasions when
the borders are completelv renewed and culti-
vated, I have found it much the best way, in
order that planting may not be stopped by wet
weather, by which operations are sometimes de-
layed till spring, to lift only a few yards in advance,
rearrange as each short section is recultivated,
and plant it up at once. It perhaps needs
experience and a clear conception in one's
mind of the ultimate appearance of the border
as a whole to proceed on these lines, but it is the
most satisfactory on the whole. The soil ought
to be dry enough to permit of the plants being
well firmed after planting, and the imoccupied
parts also compressed so that the ground will
not sink unevenly during the winter. The end of
October and part of November is the period when
I plant, but some things which are apt to flower
early may well be left till spring, one result being
a decidedly later bloom. Where Gladioli, Car-
nations, Pentsteraons, Celsias, Snapdragons, Chry-
santhemums and annuals are employed, it is, in-
cumbent that vacancies should be left for these.
Prestonkirk, N.B. R. P. Brotherston.
(To be continued.)
20
THE GARDEN.
[January io, 1914.
FRAGRANT-LEAVED TREES
AND SHRUBS.
CLE attention is given to the small
srciiip of trees and shrubs characterised
iiy their fragrant leaves, yet such
have a peculiar charm, and in some
instances perfume the air quite as
much as do numerous fragrant
flowers. They belong to both evergreen and
deciduous species, and in almost all instances
the perfume is due to the presence of essential
oil secreted in small glands in the leaves. In
many cases these oils are important articles of
commerce, and a considerable number of persons
find employment in separating
them from the leaves by distilla-
tion, to be used largely for per-
fumery. We have, however, to
consider the plants wholly in their
relationship to the garden at the
present time, their commercial
possibilities being of secondary im-
portance. In some cases the frag-
rance is easily liberated, and is
very noticeable after a shower of
rain or during early morning while
the leaves are still covered with
dew ; but in other instances the
perfume is only released by brush-
ing or bruising the leaves. During
the winter it is only possible, of
course, to observe the fragrance
of the evergreen kinds ; therefore
we will glance at a few of those
first. Noteworthy among the
number is the
Sweet Bay (Laurus nobilis), a
fine evergreen which sometimes
grows into a tree 30 feet or 40 feet
high in the milder parts of the
country, but is more frequently
foimd as a large bush. Its frag-
rance is most apparent when the
leaves are rubbed. There are two
small-leaved varieties, angustifolia
and undulata, which are equally
fragrant. The leaves of the Bay are
often used for flavouring purposes.
The Myrtle (Myrtus communis)
is another charming, fragrant-
leaved shrub, as is also its small-
leaved form, M. tarentina. In the
South-West Counties they thrive
as bushes in the open ground, but
in other parts tlicy must have
wall culture.
The peculiar resinous odour of
many coniferous trees is usually
highly appreciated by visitors to woods or planta-
tions of Pines, Cypresses and Arbor-vitces, for
although lacking the sweetness of the Bay and
Myrtle, and sometimes becoming rather pungent
on close investigation, its invigorating action
makes it very popular, particularly with invalids.
Turning from large-growing trees to small shrubs,
we find in the diminutive
Thymes worthy examples of fragrant-leaved
shrubs. They arc delightful when planted
between the stones in unevenly paved paths,
for, when passed over by ladies, the rubbing of
their dresses causes sufficient agitation to set the
fragrance free. The writer once saw these plants
used with considerable effect in the manner
described in a Somersetshire garden. They may
also be used effectively on walls. Thymus Chama;-
drys, T. citriodorus, T, Serpyllum and T, vulgaris
may all be used. Another humble plant may be
foinid in the
Sage (Salvia officinalis), for its leaves are quite
fragrant enough to warrant its inclusion in our
group.
The Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) is very
popular nn account of its delicate scent. The
fragrance of the flowers is, however, more notice-
able, that of the leaves not being very evident
until friction has been applied. Similar remarks
apply to the
Lavenders (Lavandula spica and L. vera),
both of wlii( li should be included among fragrant-
Sweet Briar (Rosa rubiginosa), which, with
the Penzance Briars, scent the air for a consider-
able distance, especially during early morning
and after rain. In the warmer parts of the cotuitry
the
Scented Verbena may be requisitioned. This,
Lippia citriodora, has Lemon-scented leaves and
forms a bush 3 feet to 6 feet high. It is hardier
than is often thought, and may be grown in
sheltered positions in the Southern Midlands.
If placed against a wall further North, it will
also succeed. The genus
Artemisia provides a number of scented-leaved
shrubi, notably the Southernwood {A. Abrota-
num), A. arborescens, A. procera and A. tridentata.
The latter plant is also worth attention on accoimt
of its silvery leaves. In Cornwall
and the Scilly Islands a number
of the
Eucalypti may be grown. The
most fragrant, probably, is E.
citriodora, which, unfortunately,
is also one of the most tender.
Throughout most of the Southern
Counties, however, E. globulus can
be planted. Its ornamental leaves
emit a perfume when rubbed.
Southern Cornwall and the Scilly
Islands have a wealth of fragrant-
leaved material in the scented-
leaved Pelargoniums from South
Africa. In the Scilly Islands they
grow luxuriantly, and when over-
growing their space they are simply
chopped down and allowed to break
again from the ground-luie.
The Myricas or Wax Myrtles
have fragrant leaves, but as a rule
they are not of any great decora-
tive value. The most ornamental
is M. asplenifolia, a native of North
.America, with elegantly cut leaves.
It requires moist groimd and a
rather cool situation.
Although these do not exhaust
tlie list of fragrant-leaved shrubs,
a sufficient number has been men-
tioned to direct attention to a group
of plants which is usually given
scanty consideration. D.
HERB.\CEOUS I'LOWERS IN A SUSSE.X G.\RDEN.
leaved shrubs. \ more vigorous shrub is found
in Urabellularia califomica, sometimes called
the Califomian Laurel by reason of its leaves
having a somewhat similar perfume to that of
the Sweet Bay, or Bay Laurel as it is sometimes
called. The various Linderas and Litsajas, though
not showy shrubs as a rule, bear fragrant leaves.
These, with Laurus and Umbellularia, belong to
the Order Lauraceaj, an Order peculiar by reason
of the large number of genera of fragrant plants
it contains. In some instances, as in the Camphor,
the fragrance is found throughout the wood,
and the wood is distilled in order to obtain
the essence. One of tlie most popular
fragrant-leaved shrubs during tlie summer is the
PLANT GROUPING FOR
EFFECT.
The accompanying illustration
depicts an autumn scene in the
gardens of PaxhiU Park, Sussex.
Herbaceous flowers are here used
with telling effect. Michaelmas
Daisies, in tones of pink, la\-ender
and blue, are mingled with the nodding flowers of
the Japanese Anemones, both pink and white, while
the warm orange shades of the Montbretias lend
a pleasing tone of colour in the foreground.
Another garden flower used in the foreground,
and one which has become exceedingly popular of
late, is the Caucasian Catmint (Nepeta Mussini). It
forms a dense prostrate tuft with numerous spikes
of small lavender-blue flowers ; as an edging to the
flower border it has few equals. Of the Mieliaelmas
Daisies, the rose pink variety St. Egwin and tlie
large blue Climax are extensively used for colour
effect, and both varieties stand out well against
the wall and balustrading, which arc partially
clothed with w.dl slirnbs in Ihc l).irkgrounil.
Jan'uarv 10, 1914.^
THE GARDEN.
21
SEASONABLE NOTES ON
VEGETABLES.
Trenching. — Of all details in conncctiou with
vegetable culture, none is of more importance than
trenching. Apart from providing a deeper root-
run in which the various kinds of vegetables will
search for food — for instance, an Onion will send
its roots down over two feet deep — the action of
trenching warms the soil by the admission of air.
Vegetables of all kinds resist drought so much
better during the summer in trenched ground.
There is still another advantage in trenching to
note. Where the subsoil, perhaps i foot to 2 feet
deep, is clay, or nearly so, a stiff, heavy, hard pan
at the bottom of the ordinarily dug soil prevents
the quick percolation of water from heavy rains
This excess of moisture immediately under the
roots causes stagnation in growth.
There are various methods of trenching. Some
advocate bringing the bottom soil to the surface,
no matter how deep they trencli.
Under certain conditions this is the
most effective manner of bringing
the whole of the soil into an
improved condition quickly. The
reservation is this : If a quantity of
matter like decayed vegetable refuse,
old potting soil, roadside refuse, with
the addition of quicklime, all mixed
together, is available to cover the
surface 6 inches thick, to give what-
ever crop may be grown a quicker
start into growth than would be
the case if the subsoil brought to
the top was clay or a heavy, retentive |
soil approaching clay. If the soil is
treated in this way for one or two
years, then retrenched again, we get
a medium that will grow almost any
kind of vegetable well. If, on the
other hand, stich addition is not
available, I advise the keeping of the
surface soil in the same position, and
trusting to the addition of long,
strawy manure or freshly gathered
leaves to the lower trenches during
the operation. This method of
trenching entails th^ use of two
trenches, whereas the former needs
but one. In any case, I advise that THE
all stiff soil be broken up to the
depth of 3 feet, and in all cases deeply dig the
bottom of each trench, leaving this in a rough
state. This method of trenching may seem a
laborious matter, but it is an excellent plan, and
when once well done it will last a long time and
so improve the conditions for vegetable growth
that it is time well spent.
Exhibition Onions. — The first or second week
in January is a good time to sow the seed. There
is no better variety than Ailsa Craig from a
good strain. The seed should be either home
saved or obtained from a reliable seeds-
man. This variety possesses all the attributes
of a good Onion — size, shape, early maturity, long
keeping, and a vigorous constitution. The ordinary
Geranium cutting boxes, 4 inches deep, answer
well for sowing. Place a few crocks at the bottom,
covering these with rough leaves, and fill the boxes
to within half an inch of the top firmly with a
compost of loam, leaf-mould, decayed Mushroom-
bed manure, and sufficient sharp sand to make
the whole gritty. Select large and plump seeds.
sowing them regularly an inch or so apart. Cover
the seeds lightly, yet firmly, with similar compost
finely sifted. If the soil is not sufficiently moist,
give a gentle watering and place the boxes in a
vinery or Peach-house just started, where the
temperature is not less than 55° or 60°. Directly
the plants appear above the surface, the boxes
should be placed in a light position close to the
glass, to prevent the plants becoming drawn.
Broad Beans. — No time should be lost in making
a sowing of Windsor or Longpod on a sheltered
border or in a favourable position in the open. Well
fork over the site, leaving it light below and thus
drier. In a trench, 4 inches deep, spread some
light compost on which to place the double row
of Beans angle-wise, covering them lightly with the
same compost, to be increased as the plants push
through the soil, which not only aids growth, but pro-
tects them also from birds, slugs and bad weather.
Seakale. — When the roots are lifted for forcing,
the next season's crop should be considered,
taking care of the small roots about six inches long,
Even in the depth of winter it retains its beauty,
spreading like a silvery carpet close to the ground
and making a pleasing contrast with dark green
Ivy if the latter is grown in the background.
There are other Santolinas of hoary appearance,
such as S. incana and S. squarrosa, the former
a small, silvery shrub suitable for the rock garden,
and the latter a variety of the Lavender Cotton
well suited for carpeting banks. The Cerastiura,
common Lavender and garden Pinks are other
grev-leaved plants that are appreciated for their
winter effects, while in summer we have many
others, of which Cineraria maritima, Antennarias
and Stachys lanata are perhaps the best known.
TWO INTERESTING BELL-
FLOWERS.
CAMPANULA EXCISA AND C. ZOYSII.
I THINK the reason why the rare Campanula excisa
so universally fails in cultivati'ai is that it gets
GREY-LEAVED LAVENDER COTTON (SANTOLINA CHAM.ECYPARISSUS) IN MIDWINTER.
of the thickness of a cedar pencil. Tie them in
bundles and place them in sandy soil in quite a
cool place. Put fresh roots as required — a few
at a time is best — in the various places for forcing.
Nowhere is better than in a iVIushroom-house,
where blanching is perfectly done in the dark, moist
atmosphere, and where a genial heat is maintained
for the benefit of the Mushrooms. Cover the
crowns with clean, freshly gathered leaves, which
aids growth and ensures perfect blanching. If no
iUushroom-house exists, a deep box, placed on
the top of the brickwork over the boiler in the
stokehole will suffice, if the crowns are covered
with leaves, kept moist ; or an inverted flower-pot
over another with the roots in, stood on the hot-
water pipes in the greenhouse, will suffice.
Swanmore Park, Hants. E. Molyneux.
SILVERY LEAVED PLANTS.
0.\E of the most beautiful of all garden plants
with silvery grey foliage is the Lavender Cotton,
botanically known as Santolina Chamaecyparissus.
so pitilessly cut to pieces by propagators that its
poor little relics are ultimately imable to make
headway. Properly rooted, however, in sound
masses, I believe there should not be any difficulty
at all, whether in sun or shade, about growing
C. excisa, so long as it is remembered that hitherto
(one must never be prophetic : C. alpestris has
weakened to lime, so why not C. excisa ?) C. excisa
remains ex hypothesi firmly opposed to any sus-
picion of lime, and also, as I thmk, to any heavi-
ness of soil. For the first time I studied this
plant last year in situ ; it is very clearly a perfectly
easy and robust species. For, though extremely
rare, it is also extremely common and pervasive ;
confined to the northern and southern sides of
Monte Rosa (with one outlying station, at least,
in the Engadine), it is there universal, taking the
place of C. pusilla, from the river-beds close on
Macugnaga, through the thinner Larch slopes, up
to the shingles by the Belvedere Glacier, where it
forms masses of colour a yard and more across.
Here it is evidently in its fullest glory ; thin
22
THE GARDEN.
[January io, 1914.
To this I was
growing, tube-flowered in open earth, it grows ample
and profuse, in wide tussocks, from the pure granitic
sand among lumps and boulders of granite. It
is finer and wirier and more graceful than C. pusilla ;
at the same time, not so far removed in general
effect but for the more violet note of the blossoms
and their extraordinarj' little punched-out hole
at the base of the corolla segments. The blossoms,
however, var}' in form ; those usually (and so rarely)
seen in cultivation are a trifle star\'ed looking and
mean, but search among the plant at its Happiest soon
produces one variety with splendid opulent blos-
soms, plump and comely in outline. There are pale
variations, too, and a pure albino,
fully directed ; I duly found all the
points of direction, found the spot —
found everything e.xcept the white
Campanula. Now, soundly rooted,
I see C. excisa sprouting freely
everywhere ; in one garden I know
it now has to be " hyked " up by
handfuls, like a weed, and cast
away. There it is growing in a
very rich mixture of leaf-mould and
coarse sand, with a perpetual flow
of underground water. With me,
on the contrary, it has not seemed
to enjoy the sandy part of the
water-bed especially made for its
needs, but is thriving very freely
in a drier and lime-fraught portion
where I cannot remember that it
was ever put. And finally, it has a
habit of dying down and then com-
ing up again a few weeks later quite
unperturbed by the alarm it has
caused to its cultivator, who is quite
prepared for its winter disappear-
ance underground, but is rendered
unhappy by such tmexpected games
of " Peep-bo."
Campanula Zoysii. — Why are
cultivators, in The Garden or else-
where, warned to be afraid of this
easy and hearty little species ? One
might as well be nervous about C.
pusilla ! A possible reason is that
gardeners oftener fail with C. Zoysii
because, being so much rarer, it is
subdivided beyond its strength by
nurserymen, and sent out in no fit
condition to battle with a slug-
ruled world. Otherwise, C. Zoysii
is a species no less hardy and
hearty than C. pusilla, though in-
comparably rarer. Manycnthusiasts
who liave successfully grown Cam-
panula Zoysii cherish it above
all others. It is a limestone
species of the Eastern Alps (Kara-
wanken, &c.), where it not only occupies the high,
hard chinks, like C. Raineri, but also gives notice
of its adaptable temper by descending far down
into the river shingles, where it forms immense
masses more than a yard across, very unlike the
tastes or developments of C. Rameri. There, in
stony sand, it waxes hugely, but seems to flower
so late that on August 24 of last year hardly a bud
was open. Now, in my garden, collected plants
of C. Zoysii (small pot plants in sprmg) are 6 inches
tall and even more across, with sheaves of their
lovely little odd puckered flowers, blue and whitish,
like stoppered bottles. They are growing in light,
rich loam, plentifully mixed with lime rubble,
and with water percolating beneath ; and here it
is quite evident they mean to wax fat and spread
like C. pusilla, without any question of difficulty
or care — except in connection with slugs, which
greedily devour them. C. Zoysii does not seem
to van>' much in colour, except in the case of the
wonderful pure white albino, which I purchased
for vast sums from its possessor, and which has
rewarded me, accordingly, with flowers of a much
richer blue than the type. Regi.vald F.^rrer.
IN A HAMPSHIRE GARDEN.
A BEAUTIFUL HARDY PRIMULA.
Primula pulverulenta Mrs. Berkeley.
This variety is sure to be a warm favourite when
better known. The type, Primula pulverulenta,
PRIMULA PULVERULENTA MRS. BERKELEY GROWN FROM SEED.
a fine sturdy species with show)' ruby crimson
flowers, and flower-stems thickly coated with a white
farina, is too well known to need further description.
The variety Mrs. Berkeley, however, has flowers
of a soft rosy orange shade with a deeply coloured
eye, and they are borne in towering heads tier upon
tier, as is the case with the type. Happily, this
variety comes true from seed, and if the seedlings
are planted out in a suitable niche in the rock
garden, as depicted in the illustration, a pleasing
show of bloom is assured from the middle of May
until midsummer or even later. Seed should be
sown next month in gentle heat. A half-shady
position and a retentive loamy soil suit the require-
ments of this variety admirablv.
SOME OF THE NEWER DECORATIVE
ROSES.
{Continued from page 5.)
Rayon d'Or (Pemet-Ducher, igio). — This strik-
ing yellow (almost garishly so) Rose was a very
great break, and it has proved of verj- material
benefit to the hybridist, and therefore all Rose-
lovers are very much indebted to its raiser. Its
colour is unique, and hits one in the eye with a
certainty that brooks no denial of your immediate
attention. But for all that — in fact, on account
of that, possibly — Rayon d'Or
does not appeal particularly to
me. A fairly robust grower, quite
mildew-proof ; its foliage only
succumbs to that worst of all
Rose pests, black spot, to which
it seems particularly prone.
Whether the black spot is also
answerable for its other bad habit
I do not know, but it is very
unsightly, namely, the dying back
of wood of the season's grou-th.
I am prepared to forgive it its
thorns, which are formidable. I
think everyone should have a
plant of it in his garden in bush
form, but I cannot recommend it
as a standard or as a bedding
Rose. It has had and will con-
tinue to have an influence on
many future generations of new
Roses, and one can only hope
that it will transmit its good
points, which are undeniable, to its
itffspring.
Reine Marie d'ltalie (H.T.,
Bernaix, 1910). — There is not
much shape in this variety, but the
colour is at times quite good — a
deep ochre yellow that stands well.
It is strongly Tea-scented, and its
habit of growth is Tea-like. It is
quite free-flowering enough for a
bedding Rose, and my couple of
nlants have arrested my attention
on more than one occasion during
the season. It might be tried
instead of Lady Hillingdon in
the Midlands and the North as a
yellow hedder.
Rose du Barri (B. R. Cant
and Sons, 1911). — This is quite
happily named ; it is a very free-
flowering bedding Rose of about
three rows of petals of a charming
rose du Barri pink. It has
a strong scent, and is very useful cut in long
sprays for the house, as many of the flowers open
at the same time and last well when cut. Almost
mildew-proof and a good grower.
Seabird (Hugh Dickson, 1913). — This has been
well exhibited on many occasions by the raisers
during the last two seasons, and was distributed
by them last autumn. Its small but well-formed
flowers are of a delightful primrose shade of yellow —
a colour that is badly wanted — and, if it will stand,
this Rose will speedily be in request. The plants
are of good shape, of the desired free-branching
habit, producing their flowers freely on good.
i erect growths. I am looking forward to flowering
it here this year,
January io, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
Sunburst (Pernet-Ducher, 1912). — " Variable,"
I am afraid, must be the decision witli regard to
this Rose, The majority of the flowers I had
last year lacked the true Sunburst colour,
and looked to have had to burst through a very
heavy raincloud and suffered badly in the process.
Still, I have had some beautiful coloured buds that
easily beat Lady Hillingdon or any other Rose
for purity of CDlour, but they were few and far
between. The pretty theory about stopping the
first flowers has not worked out of doors with me ;
it may very well do so under glass. I shall continue
to grow it for the sake of the one or two " righteous"
flowers, but a bed I saw of it in the autumn was
distinctly disappointing and had to play second
fiddle to Lady Hillingdon,
Theresa (Alex. Dickson and Sons, 1909). — Very
charming in the bud and early stages and lasting
well to the end. This semi-double Rose was much
admired, both in the garden and in the house. Its
rather unusual colouring appeals to many. Deep
orange pink with carmine markings on the outside
petals in the bud form, it opens out into a pretty
semi- double silvery pink with distinct carmine
veinings. Very free-flowering, sweetly scented, not
particularly subject to mildew, and a good strong
grower. It is a very delightful and at the same
time useful Rose. Tea scented. .t^
VernaMackay (Alex. Dickson and Sons, igta). —
Such has been the demand for this delightful
Rose that I imderstand the raisers can supply
no more plants this season. I am not surprised
Everyone admired it here ; its exquisite shape
and delightful colourmg made it at once one of
the most beautiful buttonhole Roses there is. It
can be best described as a yellow Carine. All
those who like Roses for wearing on the dress or
in the buttonhole cannot do better l^an grow
these two Roses if they can get them. Good free
habit, almost lemon colour, nearly mildew-proof,
it is very difficult to find a fault with Verna
Mackay.
Viscount Carlow (.Alex. Dickson and Sons, igio)
— One would venture to think there was a good
deal of the old G. Nabonnand blood in this Rose,
It has the same shell-like petal, but is a deeper
colour and a much stronger grower, with fine
dark foliage which, alas ! is not mildew-proof.
It was splendid in the autunm and very free-
flowering all the season.
Viscountess Enfield (Pemet-Ducher, 1910). —
If this Rose was only a better grower it would be
quite useful. The flowers are at times very pretty —
a good coppery rose — but they are small and not
very lasting.
Willowmere (Pernet-Ducher, 1913). — I think
this is the pick of the Pernet-Ducher seedlings.
It is a delightful, delicate shade of coppery pink.
I have not grown it, but have had some very beauti-
ful flowers of it sent me. I intend to try it out
of doors this year.
Southampton. Herbert E. Molvneux.
NEW ROSE lONA HERDMAN.
Visitors to the National Rose Society's Pro-
vincial Show at Gloucester in July last will remember
this beautiful Rose, for it was the most striking
of all the novelties, and was deservedly awarded
the society's gold medal. It is a decorative
variety after the colour of Old Gold, but of greater
depth and intensity. It was shown in a basket,
depicted in the illustration, and came in for general
admiration. It is one of the sterling novelties
raised by .Messrs. S. McGredy and Son,
CULTURAL HINTS ON NEW>
AND RARE PLANTS.
TREES AND SHRUBS.
Carpenteria callfornlca is a Califoinian shrub
closely allied to the Mock Oranges, though less
hardy. Thriving well in the Southern Counties,
it is also sometimes foimd in good condition in
the Midlands, while it has been noted in good health
as far North as Perthshire growing in a sheltered
position on a rockery. Its evergreen leaves are
4 inches or 5 inches long and scarcely more than
an inch wide, while its white flowers, which are
produced in clusters, are from 2 inches to 3 inches
across. Loamy soil, with a little leaf-mould or
peat, and a position sheltered from cold winds
are conducive to success.
thrive against a wall with a south or west aspect.
Light loamy soil forms the most suitable rooting
medium, and a little peat or leaf-mould mixed
with the soil at planting-time encourages the
formation of roots. Seeds form the most satisfac-
tory means of increase.
Cotoneaster applanata is a new species from
China, which promises to rank with the best of
the Himalayan species previously grown. Of free
growth, it forms long, rather slender branches,
with dark green ovate leaves. Its chief attraction
lies in its fruits, which are bright red in colour and
produced with remarkable freedom, hanging on
the plants throughout autumn and early winter.
Planted in a shrubbery or on the open lawn, it
thrives excellently in soil of a loamy nature, and
may be readily propagated by means of seeds or
by cuttings of half-ripe shoots.
THE NEW GOLD MEDAL ROSE lONA HERDMAN.
Lycium pallidum. — This is perhaps the most
interesting shrub in a genus of which the common
Tea Tree (L. chinense) is the best-known repre-
sentative. A native of Mexico, it forms a loose
bush 3 feet to 5 feet high, with glaucous leaves
and rather large, tubular, yellowish green flowers,
which are succeeded by orange scarlet fruits.
It is hicreased by seeds and grows well in ordinary
garden soil, but must be placed in a permanent
position while qitite small.
Notospartium Carmicliaelise. — This New Zealand
shrub has been known in botanical collections for
many years, but it is rarely met with in private
gardens, although an exceedingly beautiful plant
when the Rush-like branches are wreathed, during
June, with pretty pink. Pea-shaped flowers. It
is only suitable for the warmer parts of the country,
but there are numerous places where it would
Fraxinus Mariesii belongs to the Flowering
Ashes, of which the best-known example is the
European F. Omus. F. Mariesii is a sm.Tll tree,
native of China, and is conspicuous by reason of its
dark green ample foliage and its large panicles
of white flowers, which appear in May. It is
essentially a tree for a prominent position on the
lawn, and should only be planted where re.illy
good 2uid fairly moist loamy soil can be provided.
It is most satisfactory when grown from seeds,
but is sometimes grafted upon stocks of F. Omus.
Eucryphia cordilolia. — ^This Chilian shrub differs
from the better-known E. pinnatifolia by having
simple oblong leaves. Its white flowers are very
pretty, and quite as ornamental as those of the
commoner species. Although it thrives in the
open groimd in some parts of Surrey, it is really a
shrub for the South-West Counties, and the most
24
THE GARDEN.
[JA^'L■.\K^• ID, 1914.
satisfactory resiilts are obtained from it in Devon-
shire and Cornish gardens. Plant in warm, well-
drained loamy soil, and place a little peat or leaf-
mould about the roots at planting-time. Propagate
by seeds.
Aristolochia moupinensiS.^A near relative of
the common Dutchman's Pipe (A. Sipho), this
Chinese species promises to become quite as useful
as that widely- gro\\'n plant. A vigorous grower,
it forms slender branches 10 feet to 15 feet in length
in a single season, and bears ornamental green
foliage and curiously shaped yellowish or greenish
yellow flowers with purple marks. It is well
adapted for planting against trellises or on pergolas,
while it may also be employed for covering a
large bush. Rich loamy soil forms
the best rooting medium.
R u b u s bambusarum. — The
beauty of this Chinese Rubus lies
in its long, slender branches and
finely lobed leaves, for the com-
bination makes it an exceedingly
graceful plant, eminently suited for
planting against a trellis or pergola,
while it has also attractions when
grown as a pillar plant in the
open. Like other kinds of Rubus,
it succeeds quite well in ordinary
garden soil, and particularly in
that of a loamy nature. A few
of the older branches should be
thinned out each year, in order to
keep the plant within bounds and
to prevent a heavy appearance.
SEASONABLE NOTES
CARNATIONS.
ON
N
OW is the time that Perpetuals are,
as a rule, propagated, and though
they are generally facile things to
root, there are some growers who
experience a difficulty in getting
up their yearly stock from cuttings.
The only time cuttings have failed here has been
when the attendant has allowed them to flag, and.
worst of all, when flagging has been a result of
dryness. I am so particular about the cuttings being
always moist that as soon as thev are detached
EPACRISES FOR WINTER
FLOWERS.
Some of tiio species of Epacris,
and many of the garden varieties
that have been obtained ther.=-
from, may be had in flower
during the winter months, and
they are very useful for th-;
decoration of the greenhouse at
this season. What is more, they
retain their beauty for a con-
siderable time, and their long
shoots, wreathed with flowers, are
very useful for table decoration
when arranged in small vases. In
the present-day rush the merits
of many subjects that are of some
what slow growth are apt to be
overlooked, and this is, no doubt
the cause of the comparative
neglect of hard-wooded plants in
general, for many of them are
really of great beauty. That this class of plants
only need a stimulus of some kind to bring
them into the light of popularity was well shown
last year at the Royal Horticultural Hall,
when a collection of Heaths, representing the wild
flora of the neighbourhood of Caledon, Cape Colony,
was surrounded by admirers during the greater
part of the day. To return to the forms of Epacris,
it may be pointed out that they vary in colour
from pure white to bright rosy red, some of the
more delicate shades of pink being especially
pleasing. The pure white Epacris onosm^flora
flore plena attracts by reason of its pretty double,
rosette-like blossoms, while the brightly-coloured
E. longiflora carries the display on into the summer
months. H. P.
THE PERPETUAL-FLOWERING CARNATION SALMON KING
from tlie plants they are moistened and kept
so, and the rooting medium, after their insertion,
is kept wet till roots have been emitted. In a
stove propagating-pit cuttings root in from one
to three weeks ; in a cooler structure, in three
to four weeks. Sand is the universal rooting
medium, but this is by no means essential, and
acting on experience I gained years ago with
Germania, thousands of which I rooted in spring,
the cuttings being inserted in a bed of firm soil and
protected by means of shallow bottomless boxes
covered with glass, I rooted cuttings of Perpetuals
in November last in much the same way and in soil.
Layering is another and certain method of
propagation. I am, however, of opinion, from the
behaviour of the few I have grown from layers.
that plants from cuttings are superior in everj'
way. I have also grown plants from eyes, but only
of new sorts, and, of course, a short piece of stem
with its two leaves and its one break is always
a long way in the rear of the cutting. The only
excuse one can give for the " eye " is that it is
detached from the lower portion of a cutting, that it
increases the number of plants of a scarce variety,
and therefore is a gain. Another way of increasing
new varieties is to use the top of the rooted cutting,
when it is stopped, as another cutting. Moisture
has a verv pronounced effect in the production of
roots in yormg Carnations ; consequently, after the
cuttings h3\e been transferred from the propagat-
ing medimn to small pots, the soil should be
kept continually in a moist condi-
tion. This treatment will ensure a
rapid ramilication of the soil with
roots and the transference of the
plants to larger pots — another part
of their early treatment which on
no account should be delayed a day
longer than can be helped.
Just when to stop the plants has
to be decided by the condition of
each. I am strongly of the opinion
that early stopping is a mistake, and
1 like the plant to be well est ablished
at tlie roots and with a growth at an
average of eighteen leaves before
stopping ; but of this I hope to have
more to say later, because now I
wish to name a few varieties with
which the beginner ought to furnish
himself, or herself, for one of the
most enthusiastic growers I know
is a lady who does everything
herself for her pets.
Good Varieties. — Some I rather
Jiesitate to name vn account of idio-
syncrasies which a grower in a small
way would find wearisome. Such is
Carola, than which Triumph, though
not so expansive, gives much better
results, and Baroness de Briencn,
rather shy to bloom and asking for
high cultivation. Some, of course,
do well with one and not so well with
another, and there are good and less
good forms of varieties, which the
grower will be sure to notice occurs
in his own stock, for the Perpetual
is essentially sportive alike in form
and colour. These, then, and Mary
.Alhvood, May Day, Empire Day,
White Wonder or White Perpetual,
Winsor, Triumph, Countess of
Lathom, Mikado, Fairmount, St.
Nicholas, Rose Doree and the New
Champion and Gorgeous, and, I think, though
superseded by Empire Day and Lady Northcliffe,
the very free Mrs. F. Burnett should be added.
PrestoiMrk, N.B. R. P. Brotherstox,
CARNATION SALMON KING.
When better known this is sure to be one of the
most popular of Perpetual-flowering Carnations.
It is an effective and beautiful variety, with
bright salmon rose flowers that are freely bomc
e%'en in the depth of winter. The blooms are
full and travel well, while they arc also fragrant
and the calyx does not split. In October last
this variety gained the distinction of an .iward
of merit from the Royal Horticultural Society
when shown by Messrs, Stuart Low and Co.
January io, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
25
GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.
HOW TO PLAN AND CROP A GARDEN WITH VEGETABLES.
IN dealing with this subject I am presuming
that the cultivator has not had much
experience. A cultivator of flowers or
fruits, as well as of vegetables, is obliged
to gradually obtain experience if he is
relying solely on that gained year by
year from the actual cultivation of the various
crops. There is sure to be some loss of good pro-
PLAN OF AN ENCLOSED GARDEN WITH CENTRAL
BEDS.
duce and much disappointment ; but through the
pages of The Garden a reader may greatly lessen
that loss, if not entirely avoid all loss, by following
the hints given herein in reference to the growing
of the principal kinds of vegetables during the
year 1914. t
Now, some gardens — especially in subu/'.an and
town areas — are much enclosed by high, ' - fairly
high, buildings. In such circumstances y ■ owner
or cultivator must avoid as much a^i possible
having his more important crops nea:''Jae other
boimdaries, as, owing to the partial' >ade, the
growth of the plants will be somewhat adversely
affected. The nearer the centre of the garden they
are, the more sturdy and satisfactory will the growth
be. Fig. A shows how a garden ought to be planned
for a position such as the one referred to. Of
course, it is suitable for any position, open as
well as partially overshadowed. Fig. B shows a
plan of a garden very suitable for a quite open
position — one, for instance, surroimded by a low
hedge or fence constructed of wood.
The Treatment of the Soil. — The soil must not
be dug or trampled on while it is in a very wet
state. Quarters that were dug in the early part of
the autumn, or trenched later, should be left im-
disturbed for a time, until the weather
generally has had a beneficial effect on it.
In the meantime, however, the cultivator
may proceed with the work of marking out
the various plots, so that he will have all
ready for the seeds and plants in due
course. Where soils of a light nature
obtain, much progress may be made during
open weather with the actual work of pre-
paring the ground for the crops that are to
be dealt with first.
Fig. A. — No. I denotes the garden frame
placed in the warmest corner of the garden.
In a frame of this kind many seeds may be
sown, and the resultant plants will be
available for putting out much sooner than
those raised in the open border. A frame
is more necessary in a garden the soil of
which is clayey ; for this reason, while the
clayey, cold soil is mellowing and getting
warmer, the plants of the earliest
kinds of vegetables are being grown
on, so that very little time is lost,
and, of course, there is no necessity
for imtimely working of such soils,
which, if properly treated, generally
yield very heavy crops of high-class
produce.
In the frame. Cauliflowers, Brussels
.Sprouts, Celery, Peas, Leeks and
Onions may be raised. In borders
.Vos. 2 and 3, early Carrots, Turnips,
Potatoes and Peas may be grown ; in
.Vos. 4 and 5, early salads. Tall-
growing kinds, such as Runner Beans ^
Peas and Broad Beans, should be
cultivated in Nos. 6, 7 and 8 ; in
No. 9, early and second -early
Potatoes, where late ones are not
grown injthe[garden. Onions, Carrots,
Beet and Parsnips should be grown
in No. 10, salads and Parsley in
summer in Nos. 11 and 12, Celery in
13, and herbs in No. 14. Near the
seed-beds, in which winter greens
No. 15
Of course, these would follow the planting of
the winter greens, but the cultivator must get
the young plants ready to fill vacancies as the first
crops are cleared off the ground. G. G.
A BEAUTIFUL PLANT FOR HEDGES.
CoTONEASTER SiMONsii makes a very beautiful and
satisfactory hedge for a garden, and a well-trained
hedge adds considerably to the good appearance of
the garden. The plant referred to grows rapidly,
almost as quickly as the Privet ; but it does not dry
up the soil to the same extent as the latter. The
leaves measure about an inch by half an inch, are
dark green in colour, and remain on the plants
throughout mild winters. Then there are the lovely
orange and red coloured berries, which add to the
beauty of the fence. In a few years' time the hedge,
if well cared for, gets thick and compact — much
firmer than does one of Privet. In mild weather
the Cotoneaster may be planted any time till as
late as March. The soil, after being trenched
about eighteen inches deep, will form a suitable
rooting medium without the addition of manures.
The latter may be lightly pointed in after an
interval of five years, to afford a stimulant to the
plants, as they may need it then. The aim should
be to secure a short-jointed, dense growth. Put
the plants in zigzag form a foot apart. B.
k^!:^s-s^.ii3^5s:^^f;^;:^s^<(^?^^^i^ss.<^
10
\
1
7
6
7
JL
B
l\
PLAN OF A
KITCHEN GARDEN
POSITION.
FOR AN OPEN
26
THE GARDEN.
[January io, 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Fruit-Houses.
Early Peaches. — Peach trees in the early
house will uuw be swelling their buds, and, before
the flowers are open, tlie house should be carefully
fumigated with XL All Vaporising Compound
to destroy any green or black fly wnich may be
present. During the flowermg period the aimo-
sphere should be kept on the dry side and a night
temperature of 50° maintamed. Admit air
whenever the external conditions are favourable.
The flowers when open should be lightly touched
at midday with a rabbit's tail or a bunch of soft
feathers tied on a light Bamboo cane. As soon
as the flowers are set, the trees may be lightly
syringed twice daily, but avoid a stagnant
atmosphere.
Figs in Pots. — Trees which were placed in heat
at the begmning of December will now be showing
fruit. A moist atmosphere and an almost constani
circulation of air should be maintained. A tempera-
ture of 50° at night wUl be quite high enougn till
the fruits are well advancea. Fig trees planted
in restricted borders may be started now. Their
chief requirements are a moist atmosphere,
plenty of water at the roots, providing the borders
are well drained, and a temperature of 50° to 55°
at night.
Plants Under Glass.
Winter-Flowering Begonias. — Plants of the
Gloire de Lorraine type which have finished
flowering should be cut over now, removmg all
the flower-spikes without cutting the plants too
hard. If kept in a temperature of 65" and fre-
quently syringed, good, strong cuttings will soon
be available for next season's supply.
Carnations. — Autumn-struck plants of Souvenir
de la Malmaison should be freely ventUated in
order to keep them stocky. A temperature 01
45° at night will be high enough. Old plants
which are well established and the pots full 01 roots
may have weekly applications of Clay's Manure.
Cinerarias. — Plants which have been grown
in cold pits may be placed in a cool house now.
Fumigate the plants at once and give frequent
applications of manure-water.
The Flower Garden.
Sweet Peas should be sown now for planting
out ni April. Three-inch pots may be used,
placing only a few seeds in each pot. They may
De stood in gentle heat mitil the plants are througn
the surface, when they may be removed to a cold
pit and gradually nardened. Protection from
mice is necessary until the plants are through the
surface.
Sowing Seeds. — Now is the time to sow seeds
of certam bedding plants, such as tuberous-rooted
Begonias, Verbena venosa and Pentstemons.
All these should be placed in a temperature of
65° to cause them to germinate as quickly as
possible. As soon as the seedlings are large
enough to handle, they should be pricked off in
small pots or shallow boxes. Delphiniums may
also be sown now for flowering in the autumn.
Chrysanthemums. — Plants which were lifted
in the autumn and placed m cold pits are now
producing plenty ot shoots suitable for cuttings,
i'hese should be inserted in sandy soil before they
become drawn, and placed in a close, cool pit.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Pruning. — .All trees on north walls should be
pruned and nailed while mild weather lasts. The
soil should then be lightly forked over and left
to the influence of the weather. In planting
fruit trees on north walls, the border should be
thoroughly trenched and a quantity of broken
bricks and old lime rubble mi.xed with the soil in
order to keep' it in a porous condition. The
pruning and regulating of orchard trees should be
taken in hand as soon as possible. In the case
of young trees, all branches that cross each other
should be removed in order to admit light and air
to all parts oi the tree. If this is neglected while
they are young, it is a difficult matter to restore
them to a respectable shape afterwards. The
leading shoots should be cut well back each season.
so that when the trees have grown to a fair size
each branch may be furnished with fruiting
spurs from top to bottom.
The Kitchen Garden.
Tomatoes. — Seeds should be sown at once
and placed in a temperature of 70°. When the
seedlings are well through the surface, the pans
should be placed quite close to the roof glass in a
temperature of 60^.
Cucumber Seeds should also be sown in small
pots and placed on a hot-bed within 18 inches
of the roof glass. Protect the seeds from mice
and plant out the seedlings as soon as they have
made their second rough leaf.
Rhubarb Roots may be lifted and placed in
heat. Any place will suit them so long as sufficient
heat can be produced to start them into growth.
The Mushroom-house or a heated pit will suit
them well.
Mushrooms. — In order to keep up a regular
supply ot Mushrooms, a bed should Be made up
even,' three or four weeks. Let the horse-manure
be collected and thoroughly prepared before the
beds are made up. If placed in an open shed
and turned every second day for a fortnight,
it should be ready to remove 10 the bed. After
a few days the material may be rammed tightly
together, and when the temperature is steady
at 80° the spawn may be inserted 2 inches under
the surface.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Onions. — Where Onions are required for exhi-
liition purposes, now is a suitable time to sow
the seeas. Use shallow bo.xes filled with moderately
rich soil, which should be well watered before
sowing, and place in a cool greenhouse or vinery
111 a temperature of from 45" to 50°. No water will
be required mitil the seeds germinate, after which
they snould be placed on a shelf as near the glass
as possible and watered carefully, as they are
very liable to damp at this season.
Cauliflowers. — A small sowing of an early
variety ot Cauliflower may now be made. I have
found Sutton's First Crop and Dobbie's Earliest
of All useful for this sowing. Sow the seed thinlv
and keep the yomig plants near the glass, and tlie
greatest possible care will have to be taken to
prevent damping.
Tomatoes. — Where early Tomatoes are required,
a few seeds may now be placed singly in a pot ur
pan and stood in a house of about 60". If the
seeds are new, they will germinate in a tew days,
so that they will have to oe carefully looked after,
otherwise tne seedlings will become drawn. Prick
off into small pots when they show the third leaf,
keep the soil rather loose, and place them on a
shelf near the glass.
Seakale not intended to be lifted and forced
may now be covered with pots and protected
with stable manure. It is generally saia to be of
a much finer flavour treated in tnis way than
when lifted and forced.
Brussels Sprouts. — When the Sprouts have
been picked and the tops used as a vegetable,
and one has some difficufty in givmg a change,
I find an excellent dish can be made from the cores
of the stalks, which used to be thrown on the
rubbish-heap. It is prepared by sphtting up the
stalk and taking out the core. Boil the cores in
hot water with a little soda, as one would do with
Cabbage, and serve with butter. The chcj calls it
puree ae Choux de Bruxelle. Those who have not
made use of these should most certainly give them
a trial. They make a simply delicious dish.
Hardy Fruits.
Strawberries. — Plantations of Strawberries that
are rather old and have to bear a crop of fruit
for another season will be greatly benented by a
liberal application of strawy farmyard manure. 1 his
may be given now. Should the weather permit,
by the time the fruit appears the straw will be
washed clean, and no other protection will be
required.
The Flower Garden.
Lily of the Valley. — Established beds will
be greatly benefited by a liberal top-dressing of
spent Mushroom-beds, which is about the only way
one can feed them, and, on the whole, will be
all that is required. At this particular season
the great evil to be guarded against is damp.
This applies more particularly to occupants ot
cold frames, such as Carnations, Pentstemons
and Pansies, which should only have sufficient
water to keep them alive, with plenty of air on all
favourable occasions. Examine roots of Dahlias
and tuberous Begonias, and any that may
show the slightest sign of shrivellmg or rotting
must be attended to. Should the variety be extra
fine, place the plants in pots or boxes of soil
or sand. Keep all pots or boxes of cuttings on
the dry side.
Fruits Under Glass.
Peaches. — Where a supply of early Peaches is
required on established trees, a house may now
be closed and brought on slowly. Admit air
freely on fine days and apply no artificial heat
for at least a fortnight ; then only on very cold
nights. Examine the borders to see that they
are not suffering from a lack of moisture. As
soon as the flowers show signs of opening, fumigate
the house, as I generally find that if fumigated
at this stage they are not so liable to be attacked
by green fiy later.
Grapes. — Where pot Vines are not grown and
Grapes are expected fairly early in the season,
close down a house at once, and, as in the case
of Peaches, apply no fire-heat for at least a fort-
night. The temperature should not exceed 45°
by night, with a rise of 10° by day. As soon as the
buds show' signs of swelling, a slight syringing with
tepid water may be given twice a day to assist
the buds to move, and great care will be necessary
in admitting air at this stage.
Strawberries. — A fresh batch of Strawberries
may be taken into heat. Force very gently at
first, and as the plants begin to move they may
be given a higher temperature. As Strawberries
are gross feeders, they should be top-dressed with
a little loam and artificial manure, which will
be sufficient until the fruit has set.
Figs. — The first crop of Figs will now be on the
move, and should have an abundant supply of
water at the roots. Syringe the trees freely,
as it is of the utmost importance to keep the
shoots and leaves absolutely clean, otherwise
scale will very soon make its appearance.
Plants Under Glass.
Begonias are again coming into favour as
bedding plants, and deservedly so, as under
liberal treatment I know of no plant that will
give more satisfaction. To increase the stock
a sowing should be made at once, and if grown on
steadily they will flower next August. Sow in well-
drained, shallow pans with some coarse material
over the crocks and some fine sandy loam on the
surface. Water it slightly with tepid water.
Sow the seed carefully, scarcely cover with a little
sand, and place in a temperature of between
60° and 70°. Germination is, as a rule, very slow.
Thin out the seedlings as soon as they can be
handled and keep in a growing temperature for
some time.
Sweet Peas. — Those that were sown in the
autumn and intended for blooming indoors will
be growing freely, and may now be potted into
their flowering pots. It is of the utmost import-
ance to ensure a sturdy growth that they should
be kept as near the glass as possible and avoid
coddling. Train each shoot up singly. SoU
may now be prepared for sowing the main batch
towards ..he end of the month.
Celosi .. — Seed may now be sown of that
eleg.ant lant Celosia pyramidalis, which is so
deservedi ■ popular for furnishing greenhouses.
Verbei > venosa. — Where this lovely Verbena
does not- tand the winter without protection,
it is a got d plan to make a sowing now. It is,
however, ne of the most tiresome things to
germinate i know. I have tried it in every possible
way, with arious results. But the plan I now
adopt is tc steep the seed in tepid water for a
few hours Ufore solving. So far, this is my most
successful m-'thod. Alter all, it is really worth a
little extra tiouble.
John Highgate.
(Head-gardvner to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopetoun Gcrdens, Soiilh Qucensjcrry, N.B.
January io, 1914.]
THE IDEAL ORCHARD FOR
SMALL HOUSES.
{Continued from Vol. LXXVII., page 627.)
THE GARDEN.
27
THE planting of the standard trees
having now been completed, the
next important thing we have to do
is to prune the trees. This, although
a simple matter, is one which puzzles
the amateur fruit-grower more than
perhaps any other item of work he has to attend
to. In the case of young trees such as we are
■considering, there is very little pruning to do.
What there is consists in cutting back the whole
■of the young shoots of last year's growth by one-
half their length, being careful to cut each shoot
back to an outside bud (that is to say, a bud
■on the outside of the branch, and not on the inside),
the reason for this being that the new shoots
issuing from such buds wUI grow laterally and
thus help to keep the centre of the tree open.
Pruning in the Succeeding Year. — This will
•consist chiefly in thinning out weak shoots from
the body of the trees where they appear to be
too thick, and in slightly shortening the longest
leading shoots at the end of the main branches.
in,deed, this is the principle which should guide
the pruner in his work of pruning in future
years. Thin out the trees to let in light and air
•where growth is too thick, selecting the weakest
•shoots and those, if any, which grow across the
body of the trees for cuttmg out, and slightly
■shorten back the longest of the leading
young shoots as pointed out above. Standard
■orchard trees should never be overprimed.
Varieties to Plant. — In respect to a strictly
•utilitarian orchard such as this, it is necessary
to be on one's guard to plant only those varieties
-which are healthy growers and free and consistent
bearers. This means that some of our best-
flavoured Apples, such as Cox's Orange Pippin
and Ribston Pippin, must be left out, or at any
Tate only a tree or two planted, as they are not
robust growers, and, moreover, they are much
addicted to canker. Another point we have to
■consider in the varieties we plant in such an
orchard as this is the suitability of the fruit for sale
purposes, because no doubt most of it would in due
■course find its way to market. This has been
■considered in making up the following list of
■eighteen dessert varieties and the same number
of cooking varieties :
Apples, dessert. — Gladstone, ripe July ; Irish
Peach, August ; Devonshire Quarrenden, August ;
"Worcester Pearmain, September ; James Grieve,
September and October ; Ellison's Orange,
■October ; Cox's Orange Pippin (two trees only),
J>Iovember and December ; Allington Pippin,
December and January ; King of the Pippins,
December and January ; William Crump (new
Apple), December and January ; Adam's Pear-
iraain, January ; Christmas Pearmain, December
and January ; Blenheim Orange, December and
January ; Scarlet Nonpareil, December and
January ; Bamack Beauty, January and February ;
May Queen, February and March ; Bro'wnlee's
Russet, February and March ; and Stunner
Pippin, March and April.
Apples, kitchen. — Early Victoria, ripe July
and August ; Potts' Seedling, August and Sep-
tember ; Grenadier, September and October ;
■Gascoyne's Scarlet, October ; Royal Jubilee,
'October and November ; Blenheim Orange,
.December and January ; Mere du Menage, January
to April ; Warner's King (on warm soil only),
November ; Norfolk Beauty, November and
December ; Tower of Glarais, January and
February ; Lane's Prince Albert, February and
March ; Bismarck, Christmas to February ;
Belle de Boskoop, January to April ; Bramley's
Seedling, January to April ; Newton Wonder
(better than Wellington), January to April ;
Lord Derby, December ; Annie Elizabeth, March
and April ; and Wagener (latest of all). May.
Plums. — A selection of nine varieties of standard
Plum trees : The Czar (cooking), ripe early in
August ; Denniston's Superb Gage (dessert),
early in August ; Jefferson's Gage (dessert), early
in September ; Monarch (dessert or cooking), early
in October ; Oullin's Golden Gage, early in August ;
Rivers' Early Prolific, early in July ; Victoria
(plant most of this, dessert or cooking), September ;
Reine Claude de Bavay (dessert), September ;
and Coe's Golden Drop, October.
Pears. — ^These are not so useful in a cottage
orchard as are Apples and Plums. At the same
time it would be a mistake not to include a few
trees, say, a score. These could be planted
between the rows of standards as pyramid or
bush trees, and I would suggest they be planted
at the end next the house, so as to be more under
observation when ripening. Of these I give nine
suitable varieties : Williams' Bon Chretien,
ripe September ; Triomphe de Vienne, September ;
Conference, October and November ; Louise Bonne
of Jersey, October and November ; Marie Louise,
November ; Doyenne du Comice, November ;
Vicar of Winkfield (cooking), December ; Blickltng,
December and January ; and Le Lectier.
Following after the Pear trees, between the
standard Apple and Plum trees I recommend that
Gooseberries, Raspberries, Black, Red and White
Currants, also Strawberries, be planted, leaving
a large enough space at the bottom end of the
orchard furthest from the cottage (among the
standard Apple and Plum trees) to grow an
ample supply of vegetables. On either side of
the centre row spoken of before I would suggest
that a row of Loganberry bushes be planted at
9 feet apart and trained over rough timber trellis
over the pathway. As well as being useful, this
would add a touch of ornament to that part of
the orchard. At the end of from seven to ten
years the produce of this half-acre orchard, if
well looked after, ought to be worth on an average,
even at a low estimate, from £25 to £30 a year,
or, say, from los. to .las. a week. It is not neces-
sary to point out what a boon and a blessing
such an adjunct would prove to a working-man's
home. Owen Thomas, V.M.H.
GARDENING ACROSTICS.
DOUBLE ACROSTIC No. 6.
A famous Swiss botanist of the sixteenth century,
who, after having collected 1,500 drawings to
illustrate a history of plants, died before he could
publish the work.
Firsts — His Christian name.
Lasts — His surname.
1. An English name for the Gladiolus.
2. A seed before it is fertilised.
3. A genus of Filices, which takes its name
from the kidney-shaped covering of the sori.
4. A Campanula whose roots may be used as
a vegetable and its leaves in a salad.
Seldom seen now. English name.
5. The fruit of the world.
6. A ■ famous and graceful Himalayan tree
introduced to Britain about ninety years
ago. Its usual English name.
Solutions of the foregoing must be sent so as to reach
the Editor at 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden,
London, W.C., not later than the first post on Saturday,
January 17. Mark the envelope " .Acrostic " in
the top left-hand corner.
SOLUTION AND NOTES OF
ACROSTIC No. 4.
HERBAL — SALMON.
* I. H YACINTHUS ORIENTALI S
t 2. E velyn's Sylv a
t 3. R EGE I.
§ 4. B LENHEI M
II 5. A RBUTUS Uned O
U 6. L ouDO N
William Salmon, doctor to Queen Anne, published
his Herbal in r7io. It is a huge volume, and from
his fulsome dedication to the Queen we may safely
say he was " in a big way " when he wrote it. It
is the last of the great Herbals. * The Dutch were
afraid of a Hyacinth mania about 1734, on the
lines of the disastrous Tulip mania of a century
before, so much so that a book of that period was
republished as a warning of what might be expected
if prices became imduly inflated, t Evelyn was
both a gardener and a statesman. His " Sylva "
was published in 1664, partly to encourage the
planting of Oak trees for the Navy. J The elder
Regel was one of the best-kno\vn European botanists
of the last century. For a list of his works see
Jackson's " Guide to the Literature of Botany."
§ Lancelot Brown, a landscape gardener of the
eighteenth century. He excelled in his manage-
ment of water. He was nicknamed " Capability "
Brown, from his habit of remarking that a place
iiad great " capabilities." — Johnson's " History of
English Gardening," page 265. i| Arbutus Unedo is
popularly called the Strawberry Tree. — Nicholson's
Dictionary of Gardening. If J. C. Loudon's
" Eucyclopadia of Gardening " is a mine of
information on everything connected with garden-
ing. It was published in 1829. After Loudon's
death new and revised editions continued to be
published by his widow. The last we have seen is
dated i860. The early editions are particularly
valuable on account of their good bibliography,
which is omitted in all later ones. Felton, in his
work on the " Portraits of Authors on Gardening,"
draws much of his information from this source.
RESULT OF ACROSTIC No. 4.
In accordance with our rules, it was possible
to secure eight marks, one for each correct " first "
and " last," and one for each correct light. The
following marks have been awarded :
Seven marks, — L. A. Louden, " Ping," " Judith "
and " White Lady."
Six marks. — " Tempus Fugit," " Hero," R.
Chapman, " Jan," " Penwame," " Nautilus,"
" Westbank," " Tortoise," " Boarsvale " and
" Rusticus."
Five marks. — " Miller," " St. Kevins," Miss
G. H. Jeffreys, " Elm " and " M. M."
Four marks. — William Acworth and G. D. King.
Three marks. — A. Henderson, W. Bond and
W. Slocombe.
One mark. — W. Garwood and E. Ballard.
As stated in Rule No. 5, published in our
issue for November 22, 1913, Acrostic No. 4
completes the first series. In this series it was
possible to get a total of 41 marks, and we give
28
THE GARDEN.
[January io, 1914-
below the names of tlmse -vvhi
and over ; " White Lady," 38
'• Hero." 37 ; R. Chapman,
" Nautilus," 36 ; " Jan," 35
" Westbank," 35 ; " Elm," 34
" Judith," 33 ; " Tortoise,"
secured 30 marks
L. A. Louden, 38 ;
37; "Ping," 37;
■' Rusticus," 35 ;
" Boarsvale," 33 ;
;: ; " Miller," 31 ;
and " W. R. D.," 30. Under Rule 8, the first prize
of two guineas and the second prize of one guinea
will be added together and divided between
"White Lady" and L. A. Louden.
Under Rule 5, these two competitors will be
penalised 12 points in the second series, i.e.,
.Acrostics Nos. 5 to 8 inclusive.
ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.- ZVi,' Editor inlciids to
make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should he
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the EDiTOE of THE Garden, 20. Taristock
.Street, Coeent Garden. London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, eath should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-uool. and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher.
FLOWER GARDEN.
SWEET PEAS {La France).~Thf weak conilition may
be the result o£ overcrowded plants, or this in conjunction
with the distance they are from the light. The vinery
is not the best place for them, secmg they require the fullest
liRht. Cannot you erect a temporary shelf for a few weeks ?
If so, and if you could also give the plants a shift into 8-inch
pots, an appreciable improvement might ensue. A little
bone-meal with the soil might also strengthen the plants.
If you have enough rods, trahi the Kose out fan shape,
and in January cut it back to one-half the length of the
shoots or to the position of a good plump eye or bud.
You do not say if the plant is in a cold or heated green-
liouse, and yoii give no particulars as to the mature con-
dition of the growth or whether early flowers are required
or not, all of which would have assisted to a more
lielpful reply.
PLANTS FOR EDGING A BORDER (X. F.Z.)— Yellow-
flowered subjects suitable for this purpose are decidedly
few. While the yellow Alyssum is remarkably showy
iu spring, it is not seen to advantage dcrrng the summer
months." Sedum kamtschaticum is a pretty yellow-
(lowcriug species that grows about six inches high and
blooms for some time in the summer. Iberis corresefolia
forms a pretty evergreen edging^ and so does the small
Periwinkle, Vinca minor. An edging that we have had
under our notice, and which much impressed us through-
out last summer, consisted of a band of Nepeta Mussinii,
and we think this would not fail to give you satisfaction.
It grows about fifteen inches high, and the masses of soft
greyish-toned foliage impart to it a most restful and
pleasing character. The spikes of pale lavender blue
flowers, so freely borne throughout tlie summer, form
an additional feature of attraction.
CALIFORNIAN POPPIES (H. IT.).— There arc two
Californian Poppies, and yon do net say to which one yon
refer. One is a shrubby, and iu some gardens a sub-
shrubby plant, with glauccous leaves and large white
flowers. This is known as Komneya Coulteri, or Cali-
fornian Tree Poppy. The other is an annual plant called
Eschscholtzia cahfornica. l^oth belong to the Poppy
family, though neither is a true Poppy. If it is the
former plant to which you refer, the seeds may be sown on
arrival in ligh' , sandy soil iu a warm greenhouse. When
the seedlings are large enough to handle, prick them off
singly in bo.xcs at a distance of 2 inches apart each way.
When well established, place them in a cool and airy frame,
and plant out in a nursery border in May. They ought
to flower when two years old. If t!ie Eschscholtzia is
meant, keep the seeds in a cool place until ilarcll, then sow
them thinly in light soil in a herbaceous border. Allow
lilerity of room, and eventually thin the plants out so that
they "stand at a distance of 9 inches or so apart. This is
a very easy plant to .grow, and often reproduces itself
year after year from seeds left in the ground. The flue
flowered named kinds are apt to deteriorate, however, if
allowed to do tiiis.
BROMPTON STOCKS GONE WRONG (/. U . !■ .).—
We have carefully examined the leaves of the Brompton
Stocks and have failed to find any trace of fungus in them.
Their appearance suggests that there may he wireworm
or something of that kind at their roots.
VIOLETS AND RED SPIDER (B/ncWoct).— The Violets
are very badly attacked by red spider. The plants have
probably been kept too dry, and almost certainly too warm
and close. Syringe them with a solution of potassnuu
sulphide, made at the rate of loz. of the sulphide to tlirr,-
gallons of water.
CARPET PLANTS FOR STANDARD FUCHSIAS {E. B.).
— Some of the bedding Violas form a good groundwork
for standard Fuchsias; indeed, we do not thhik you
will improve upon them for the purpose. For Fuchsia
Mrs. Marshall, the soft mauve variety Maggie Mott, one
of the very best of hedders, would form a pleasing combina-
tion- but if you prefer a Viola of a darker tone, then
we can recommend J. B. Riding, a rich, rosy claret-
coloured flower. Dwarf plants of a good Heliotrope,
such as Lord l^oberts, would also be well suited for the
purpose.
PLANTS FOR SHADED ROCKERY (Znmeibe).— You
ask for the uames of some " conunon rock plants for a
tree-shaded rockerv." Any of those named below should
succeed, though the measure of success would be in pro-
portion to the degree of shade, not many plants thrixing
in dense shade. Arabis albida. A. a. flore pleno. Alyssum
saxatilc, Aubrietias in shades of blue, lilac, violet, pink
and purple, Iberis sompervirens, Coronilla varia, C. iberica.
Campanula muralis, C. pusilla, C. p. alba. Polygonum
afline Mossy Saxifrages in variety, Acantholimon gluma-
ceum, .Mega'sea cordifolla, M. c. purpurea, Orobus roseus,
O. vernus, Saponaria ocymoides, Veronica prostrata,
Crucianella stylosa coccinea, Achillea tomentosa, Acffina
microphylla, Helianthemums in variety, Sedimi spurium
cocemeum, S. kamtscliaticuin, S. pulchclhim, S. midden-
dorflana, Hepaticas and Omplialoilcs vcrna. Interspersed
among these might appear Snowdioi)s, ChiuiuxUjxas,
Scillas. Leucojum vernum, autumn and winter flowering
Crocuses, .\nemone apennina, the Winter Aconite, and
other bulbous or tuberous rooted plants.
VARIOUS QUESTIONS (Daisy). The flowering-time of
the VcrlKiscum would bi' influenced b\> the locality, and as
yon appear to live in a cold district, tlie plants may not
flower before August. Both kinds are perennial, but for
decorative ettect are best regarded as biennials, whose good
flowering would depend upon the leaf de\elopment in the
first year. iMid-April we should consider too late a date
for sowing, if the idea is to get good specimens. Sutton's
Pink Antirrhinum would be best for the border ; the
Swan Uiver Daisy would be much too dwarf behind the
Nepeta, and even the intermediate .A.ntirrlunum would not
be any too tall. You may, however, get the shade of
colour 'in the tall Antirrhinum if you wish. A useful
annual for carpeting the Azalea bed would be Alyssum
maritimum compactum ; it is white flowered, dwarf and
free A much better way of carpeting such a bed would
be to plant some of the hardy Heaths, either Erica carnea
or a good red form of E. vulgaris, such as Alportii. This
would flower in autumn ; the first named would flower
during the winter months.
BULBOUS FLOWERING PLANTS FOR CHURCH
DECORATIONS (B. IT. .1.).— The most suitable bulbous
plants for your purpose would be Dattodils, Tulips
and Spanish 'Irises, and a selection of each of these would
provide flowers for cutting in April, iNIay and .Tune. The
best Daffodils would be Golden Spur, Emperor, Empress,
Barri couspicuus. Sir Watkin, grandis, ornatus, Pocticus,
recurvus. Sulphur Phcenix and albicans ; of Tulips.
Yellow Prince, \^^lite Pottebakker, White Swan, Rosa
Mnndi and Prince of Austria among the early or bedding
sorts with Bouton d'Or, Flame, Golden Spire, Inglcscombe
Pink, Inglcscombe Scarlet and The Fawn among May-
flowering and Cottage varieties. To these could be added
some late-flowering Darwin sorts, though we consider the
above of a more useful character for the object in
view. Of the Irises, British Queen (white), Chrysolora
(yellow). Bronze King and Excelsior would be good.
Paionies, both single and double, would be serviceable,
though the former do not last long. Iris Kaimpfen we
should not consider quite suitable. The best plants for
later floweriu" also to he planted before the middle of
February would be Liliums longifloruin and spcciosum
album Krsetzcri. The so-called Spirica japonica would
best suit your requirements.
TREES AND SHRUBS.
FLOWERING SHRUBS FOR A SUNNY PLACE (£. C.).—
The follciuiiiu eight shrubs may be expected to give satis-
factory nsiilts if planted underthe conditions you descrilie :
Berberis stenuplivlla, Spiriea arguta, Ribes sanguineum
atrosangnineum, ' Diervilla Abel Carridre, Yihuruum
tomentosum plicatum, Cistus laurifolins, Philadelphus
Lemoinei erccta and Forsythia suspensa. They may be
procured from any of the nurserymen who advertise
trees and shrubs in The Garden.
SHRUBS FOR FLOWERS (.W. G.).— The following should
be of service to vou in the circumstances : Philadelphus
orandiflora. P. Lemoinei erectus, P. .Mont Blanc; Lilacs
JIme Abel Chateiiuv. Marie Legrayc, Negro, Mine. Lcmoine ;
Berberis Darwiiiii. 11. stenophylla, Forsythia suspensa,
F. Aitehisonii, Wrigela Aliel Carridre, W. van llouttc,
Buddleia variabilis, B. veitchianus. Daphne Mczereum,
and Rosa rugosa. You sav nothing of the size and extent
of the border, or the soil, but if greater variety should lie
desired vou might, provided the soil is suitable, add hybrid
Rhododendrons and the hardy Azaleas, the latter being
particidarly valuable both at flowering-time and for rich
foliage ehe'cts in autlllim.
SCALE ON MYRTLE (TT. G. .S.).~The Myrtle is
badly attacked by scale insects and will be very difllcult
to clean. As many as possible of the little blisters should
be removed with a blunt stick, assisted by a dip of soft
soap (a handful) into wiiich flowers of sulphur have been
kneaded, dissolved in one and a-half gallons of soft water.
-\fter this has been done, spray the plant well at weekly
intervals for three weeks with parafhn emiUsion. spraying
with clear water between tie' operation?,.
INJURY TO RHODODENDRON FOLIAGE {Pink
Pearl). — The damage done to tlu' foliage of the Rhodo-
dendrons is not the result of the attack of a fungus, though
one is present on some of the leaves, but the result of
drought in the past summer. "Ulicn once the soil in whith
the plant is growing becomes really dry. the fungus, wiiich
plays the part of root-hairs in these plants, is likely to
be killed, and subsequent watering is of httle avail. One
sees many .\zaleas killed through allowing the soil to
become dry, and it is the common cause of the death
of Heaths in houses.
PRUNING AVENUE TREES {J. X>.).— Your avenue
trees will certainly retiuire pruning if you wish them to
develop into really flue specimens. In any cases where
there are rival leaders, all must be removed save the
centre one. .Uso \vhere the branch system is very dense,
a number of branches may be removed with advantage.
When branches are developing rapidly in width and
the trees are not increasing in height to a corresponding
extent, the branches should be shortened. Bottom
branches may be removed gradually, but do not take
many off at once, or too great an area of hark will be
exposed to sun which has previously been shaded. All
cuts must he made parallel with and close to the bark
of the trunk or main branches, and all wounds must be
drcssid with coal-tar as soon as made.
DWARF-GROWING SHRUBS (Terosram).— The follow-
ing dwarf-growing shrubs would be likely to give satis-
factory results in the bed you describe : Philadelphus
Lemoinei erectus. Genista hispanica, Tamarix pentaudra,.
Prunus japonica flore pleno, Xalmia latifolia and Pieris
japonica for the hack ; and Cydonia .Maulci superba,.
Spiraia japonica Anthony Waterer, Dabcecia polifoUa,
Erica cinerea and varieties. Calluna vulgaris and varieties.
Erica carnea, Leiophyllum bnxifolium, Hypericum
moserianum, Berberis Wilsonre, Genista pilosa, Cytisns
Beanii. C. kewensis and Kalmia angustifolia varieties for
other places. The Ericas, Callunas. Leiophyllum and
Hypericum should be planted in small groups. The
El'ieagnus and Pittosporum you mention are likely to
grow at least 12 feet high, and are not suitable to place
among small-growing plants. .
INJURY TO PRIVET (TF. B. S.).— The Privet branch
sent for inspection bore the fructification stage of the
coral spot fungus (Xcctria cinnaharrna). This fungus-
often appears on dead wood, and may usually be found
on old Pea sticks, but it is also found on living branches.
The spores probably find an entrance through wounds,
and the mycehum is present in branches for a consider-
able time "before the visible or fruiting stage appears^
By that time the injury is complete and there is no chance
of saving an infested branch. It, however, is more often
found on branches of trees or shrubs, and may take one
branch of a tree and cause no further harm to that par-
ticular specimen. On the other hand, it may spread from
branch to branch of a shrub and eventually destroy the
whole plant. The only way to cope with the disease
is to cut away and burn any branch wiiich hears the small
red fungus growths, and also all dead wood. As your
Privets are old plants, it would, perhaps, be advisable
to dig them up and burn them, and begin again with young
plants. Vigorous young plants 2 feet to 3 feet high
can be procured very cheaply, and they transplant without
the slightest fear of them not re-establishing themselves..
No real good can be done by using a fungicide for this
disease.
THE GREENHOUSp.
INJURY TO SCHIZANTHUSES {.Mrs. C.).— The Schizan-
thus plants are atlaeki.l at the rout by a fungus, a species
of Fusarium, which is killing the lower part of the stem
and causing the withering of the upper part. This disease
is very similar to, and perhaps identical with, the
sleepy disease of Tomatoes. Cure is impossible, and pre-
vention consists in sterilising the soil by steaming it before
planting.
PLANTS' FOR WINDOW (J/ r«. i. Tr.).—(1) The success
attending the cultivation of dilfcrent plants in the
window of vmir drawing-room speaks highly for the care
and attention that yon bestow upon them. We have
little doubt that a Camelha would succeed under these
conditions, but wc do not feel so sure of a Cape Heath.
Two of the most likely to thrive with this treatment are
Erica gracilis, whose myriads of tiny rose purple blossoms
are borne in autumn and winter, and Erica melanthera,
a winter flowerer with small mauve-eolouicil blossoms
and dark-tinted anthers. These may during the summer
he stood out of doors, provided they are well supplied
with water. (2) Weak soot-water is a good stimulant for
Ferns, but it would be better still to alternate it with a
little Clay's Fertilizer, which can be safely applied to
Ferns Of course, you will take care that only a very
moderate dose is given. (3) As your Jessamine grows
so strongly and yet flowers in a perfectly satisfactory
manner, we do not think you can improve upon the practice
which has proved to be so successful. It certainly seems
a pity to cut awav so much wood, hut as this is necessary
to ke'ep it within bounds, we do not sec how it can in any
wav he avoided. When cutting it back to the necessary
extent, any old and exhausted wood should be removed
entirely
r^«-
GARDEN t
*«?=r"
^ST"^*"^-
-^M.
"^^
No. 2200.— Vol. LXXVIII.
January 17, 1914.
CONTBNT8.
NOTKS OF THE AVKKK 29
CORRESPONDENCK
The Heftth garden . . 30
The Bird of Paradise
Flower 30
The Gold M o h u r
tree 31
Protecting alpines in
winter 31
Thatched cottages . . 31
Forthcomiufi events . . 31
Seasonable notes on
Chrysanthemums . . 31
The winter spraying of
fruit trees . . . . 31
A beautiful Barberry. . 32
CoLODRED Plate
Kaising tuberous
Begonias from seed 32
A little-known Orchid 33
Some useful plants for
the rock garden . . 33
Rose-^'rowiug in town
gardens 34
In a Hampsiiirc garden 'i't
A noble border plant . . 35
The herbaceous or
mixed border . . . . 38
The training of wall
fruit trees 37
Why seeds sometimes
fail 37
Gardening ok the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 38
For Nortlleru gar-
dens 38
Renovating old Orapo
Vines 39
Editor's Table ... .. 39
Gardening acrostics . . 39
Answers to Corre-
spondents
Flower garden . . . . 40
Trees and shrubs . . 40
Fruit garden . . . . 40
Greenhouse . . . . 40
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
111I.0STRAT10NS.
The Bird of Paradise Flower 30
Fruiting sprays of the new Berberis polyautha . . . . 32
Tuberous Begonias Coloured plate
A rare Orchid : Paphinia cristata 33
Erodium trichomansefoUum, a dwarf Heron's Bill . . 34
Seedlings of Eremurus himalaicus 35
Propagation of herbaceous plants 36
Larkspur seedling, showing stage of gro\vth to plant 36
A well-trained fan-shaped Pear tree 37
BDITORIAI< NOTICBS.
Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.
The Editor welcomes 'photographs, articles and notes,
but he mill not be responsible ior their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributioni.
As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.
The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.
Offices . 20, Taoiitock Street, Covent Garden, W.C.
Plants Protected from Frost.— Plants that
are protected from frost should, during a spell
of mild weather, have their covering removed
during the day where it is possible, as it helps
to retard the plants, which would otherwise
become active under the influence of protection.
Discretion should be used, for plants that are
frozen ought not to be uncovered, but left until
the frost has gone. This also applies to plants
in frames.
Shortage of Cut Flowers. — During the last
ten days cut llowers ha\'e been exceedingly scarce,
and in Covent Garden Market prices have been
higher than for many years past. In the provinces
some of the smaller florists' shops have had to
resort to artificial flowers to meet the deficiency.
The mild weather experienced until Christmas
brought many flowers along too rapidly, and
those that would under ordinary circumstances
have been available now were sold three weeks
ago. Since then cold weather has been experi-
enced in France and this country, and has retarded
the later crops. The shortage is expected to last
for at least another week.
Pruning Winter Jasmine. — This beautiful
hardy shrub has flowered earlier than usual in
most districts this winter, and now most of the
blossoms have departed. Although much pruning
is not needed, that which is required should be
done during the next few weeks. Unless a bush
is overcrowded, or encroaching on space required
for other plants, it may be left alone. Where,
however, growth is too dense, the oldest shoots
ought to be removed. This will encourage the
formation of stout growths that will flower freely
next winter. If the shrub appears to be starved,
a top-dressing, 2 inches thick, of well-decayed
manure applied now will work wonders during the
growing season.
Davidia involucrata. — There is an interesting
reference to this tree in Mr. E. H. Wilson's new
book, " A Naturalist in Western China." It
appears in the fascinating chapter entitled " In
Quest of Flowers " : " Ascending a precipice
with difficulty we soon reach the Davidia trees.
There are over a score of them growing on a steep
rocky declivity ; they vary from 35 feet to 60 feet
in height, and the largest is 6 feet in girth. . . .
The distinctive beauty of Davidia is in the two
snow white connate bracts which subtend
the flower proper. These are always unequal
in size, the larger usually 6 inches long by 3 inches
broad, and the smaller 3J inches by 2J inches.
At first greenish, they become pure white as the
flowers mature, and change to brown with age.
The flowers and their attendant bracts are pendu-
lous on fairly long stalks, and when stirred by
the slightest breeze they resemble huge butter-
flies hovering among the trees. ... To my
mind Davidia involucrata is at once the most
interesting and beautiful uf all trees of the nortli-
temperate flora."
To Make Stoneworl^ Look Green and Old.—
We are occasionally asked if there is any chemical
that will make stone steps or pedestals look old
jiermanently. So far as we know there is not,
l)ut the following treatment will, in the course of
a few weeks or months, give the stone a genuine
mossy appearance. Wash down the bark of
one or more large trees, and add to the greenish
water thus obtained a little cow-manure and
very little soot. Paint or sprinkle the stone
two or three times with the liquid. If this is
done at once, the stone will have taken quite a
green, mossy tint by the spring, which will increase
as time goes on. Flakes of moss obtained from
old walls can frequently be encouraged to establish
themselves on the stone, and even if the
moss itself dies, the spores almost invariably
germinate.
Climbers for Rambling Over Large Trees.—
There are many climbing plants that look very
effective when rambling over large trees. The
common Virginian Creeper, as well as several
other forms of »\mpelopsis (which, correctly
speaking, are Vitis) look very charming during
the autumn hanging against the dark foliage
of a Pine tree. The same may be said of Poly-
gonum baldschuanicum, -with its pink and white
trusses of flowers, or P. multiflorum, which is
a more vigorous and faster grower. Clematis
montana and C. Flammula are excellent for such
a purpose, and even the common Traveller's Jo\'
(C. Vitalba) may be used for the wilder parts of
the garden, as it is ornamental both in flower
and fruit. Rosa moschata will often ramble over
the top of a Pine tree r30 feet high, and look quite
a picture in summer with its many white flowers.
.All of them may be planted now, and only require
a little attention till they have become established.
Pruning Outdoor Vines. — Grape Vines grow-
ing outdoors, either against a wall or poles,
should be pruned without delay. If grown upon
the spur system, the lateral shoots should be
cut back to about two buds from the base ; but
if on the extension system, the wood growths laid
in during the summer to take the place of those
that bore fruit during the past year must be cut
back to a plump bud, leaving about four feet
of the shoots. The last-named system is prefer-
able for Grapes growing out of doors, as the shoots
grow away more freely than those on the spur
system. Should the Vine be infested with red
spider, give the wood a dressing with a mixture
of water, soft soap and flowers of sulphur, with
quicklime. The mixture is made by boiling ilb.
of sulphur with 2lb. of quicklime in 4 gallons of
water ; then to every 40Z. of this add 20z. of
soft soap and r gallon of boiling water, thoroughly
mixing them and keeping the whole stirred when
in use. When ready, it may be applied to the
bark with a stiff brush and well worked in. This
will be found a cheap and effective preparation.
30
THE GARDEN.
[January 17, iqi4.
CORRESPONDENCE.
( The Editor is iwt responsible for the
expressed by correspondents.)
opinions
The Herb Garden. — Seeing in your issue of
The Garden for January lo a request by one of
your correspondents, " Herbs," for adNTce upon
making a herb garden, and being myself interested
in making such a garden, I feel I must let him know
of an excellent and most charming book entitled I charming, but rendered as a whole less effective
have brighter days before them. They go ahead
and gain strength with the lengthening days,
and never look back. Mr. Engelmann publicly
stated that his tests over two years proved that
January-struck cuttings will give a far larger crop
than October or November struck plants. — T. W.
Colour Effects witli Annual Flowers. — The
coloured illustration of annuals given with January 3
issue presents some problems worth considera-
tion. The pink and rosy carmine on the right are
" The Herb Garden," written by Mrs. Bardswell
and published at 7s. 6d. by Messrs. Black and
Son, which has been of the greatest service to
me. The book is illustrated in colour, and is
full of useful and instructive information, giving
by the intrusion of the white Godetia. The most
faulty part of the composition, however, is
the deep blue at the edge. Had cream been
used instead, the whole would have been sweetened.
Blue, to have been effective with the other colours.
lists of many herbs, &c., which the average person \ should have been very light, or, best of all, mauve,
would know nothing about, and also the uses to : and preferably introduced near the back. The
which these can be put. There is so great a charm 1 grass verge is too narrow, and at the very least
about the very words " herb garden "
that it is most pleasant to find the old
love of this phase of' gardening reviving.
Your correspondent is indeed fortunate
to have his herb garden given to him.
— Garden Lover.
The Bird of Paradise Flower.— Thi-^
is the popular and appropriate nanir
given to the South African genus Stre-
litzia. The most magnificent species is
S. Reginae, with large orange and purple
flowers of gorgeous colouring. This
species and its beautiful variety citrina
are now to be seen flowering in the
Mexican House at Kew, where their
striking appearance never fails to arouse
the interest of admiring visitors. S.
Regins was grown at Kew as far back
as 1773, but at that time it was not a
success, owing, no doubt, to the fact
that the roots were confined in flower-
pots or tubs. In 1795 a plant flowered
for the first time in the Apothecaries'
Garden at Chelsea. Here the plant
seems to have fared better, owing to its
roots having extended by accident into
a bed of rotten tan. When planted out
in the beds of a warm house or stove,
Strelitzias grow and flower freely, pro-
viding they receive a fair amount of
sunshine. The genus is related to Musa,
and it is interesting to note that in
South Africa the seeds of S. Reginse are
eaten by Kaffirs. — C. Q.
Perpetual-Flowering Carnations. —
I was attracted by the note on Car-
nations, page 24, issue January 10,
by Mr. R, P. Brotherston, and par-
ticularly by the paragraph wherein he states
that propagation begins early in October. While
this may answer in Scotland, I venture to state
that all the most famous commercial growers
will admit that October and November struck
cuttings do not make such profitable plants as
those struck in December, January or February.
At the last conference of the Perpetual Flowering
Carnation Society, and also at the one in December,
1912, Mr. C. Engelmann and others stated that
they were convinced that the later-struck cuttings
were the best from all points of view. Mr. C.
AUwood, easily one of the most expert writers
on Carnations, explains the why and wherefore,
and it is simply this : October cuttings have
two dull declining months ahead of them, and
during this period they are weakening, not gaining
strength. Late December and Later cuttings
A BIRD OF PARADISE FLOWER (STRELITZI.\ REGIN.E CITRINA)
NOW FLOWERING IN THE MEXICAN HOUSE AT KEW.
should be twice the width. A deep blue might
have been used on the left border, but there also
well to the back. On the whole I would incline
to banish blue from both borders. I wonder
how the compositions strike others who have
given colours some attention. — R. P. Brother-
ston, Prestonkirh, N.B.
New Potatoes in Midwinter. — We have had
a considerable supply of new (or young) Potatoes
during the recent Christmas season, the supply
being produced by two distinct and simple methods.
The first was by filling biscuit tins with young
Potatoes in July. After putting on the close-
fitting lids, these were secured in position by
means of a piece of lacing wire. The tins were
then buried 2 feet deep in the ground, where they
were allowed to remain till the Potatoes were
wanted. The second method employed was a
little more striking, and was as follows : A number
of the largest available tubers were selected from
some maincrop Potatoes in spring. These were
spread out on trays, and the young growths
picked off every fortnight till the first week in
August. At this date some old potting soil,
moderately damp, was got ready, also a good-
sized packing-case. A layer of soil 2 inches deep
was placed in the bottom of the bo^x, and on it
tubers were laid 2 inches apart from surface
to surface, and this was repeated till the case
was filled, finishing off with the usual layer of
soil. The case was then placed in an outhouse
and allowed to remain there till the Potatoes were
wanted at Christmas-time. The case was then
emptied of its contents by being turned upside
down, when it was found that the old tubers
(now shrivelled up) had, without the aid of leaf,
stem or light, produced a fair crop of nice young
tubers, dry and mealy. I may say that
_ in both cases the tubers had the
llavour characteristic of young Potatoes
grown under normal conditions. I am
aware that these methods are not new,
but they do not appear to be generally
known. — Ch.^rles Comfort, Midlothian.
Two Excellent Kales. — There are
two varieties of Kale that do not seem
to be generally known, but that are
both of such high merit that they
should be in everj' garden where the
best vegetables are appreciated. The
Marrow Kale is for summer and
autumn and until frost comfes, for it is
not very hardy. The stem is the part
eaten. The leaves of a coarse kind
have long been used as cattle food,
especially on the Continent ; but the
garden kind, cut before the stem has
become hard and fibrous, is a truly
delicious vegetable. In taste it is much
like Kohl Rabi, but is more tender in
consistency and more delicate in flavour.
The stem is nearly two feet long, a
little swollen in the middle of the length.
To prepare it for table the outer skin
is cut off, and the stem, which will now
be about an inch in diameter, is cut
across in sections rather less than a
quarter of an inch thick, boiled in salted
water and served with a thin white sauce.
The other kind is the Russian Kale.
What is now offered must be a recently
much-improved kind, for in that admir-
able book, " The Vegetable Garden," by
Messrs. Vilmorin, it is described as worth-
less. Certainly the vegetable I am now
and which I grew, together with the
Marrow Kale, by the advice of a representative
of Messrs. James Carter and Co., who sent me
the seed, is quite the best of the several kinds
of Cabbage I have now in the garden. It has a
tender texture and an excellent flavour, with
that pleasant sweetness that the hardy Cabbages
seem only to acquire when they have felt the
frost. When half grown the Russian Kale has
a curious appearance. The earlier leaves have
hardly any blade, and the whitish ribs and nerves
stand out like the branches of stags' horns. Now
it has the central rosette of more normal Cabbage
form, which is the edible part. This and the
succeeding sprouts will be of great value through
the winter, for it is extremely hardy. During the
recent trials at Wisley the Russian Kale received
high honours. — G. Jekvll.
enjoymg
JAt^oARy t7, 1514.;
THE GARDExV.
31
The Gold Mohur Tree.— In your issue of the
3rd inst. I find that " G. D." has enqtiired about
the Gold Mohur tree. I know it by appearance
very well ; it is one of the sights of the Shiny East.
I am nearly certain that it is a variety of Poinciana,
but I have no books on Eastern botanical subjects,
so am unable to verify my assertion. I am
inclined to believe that it originally came from
the West Indies, but it is found in the cities of
India and Ceylon. — P. Tillard.
Protecting Alpines in Winter. — The rockery
as a feature of artistic gardening has come to stay,
but the satisfaction of picturesqueness is often
nullified by the high mortality among choice
plants during the ever-changing climatic con-
ditions of our long winters. Frost is not a danger
for serious consideration ; but rain, stagnant
water and a cold, sodden soil spell ruin to many
of our finest plants. I have found that an excel-
lent method ot keeping down the number of
losses is to scatter gravelly matter round those
that I prize most. I have even gone the length
of wedging small whinstones, such as are used for
roads, round the necks of some plants, and I
never yet had cause to regret the time taken up
in the work. Keep the foliage off the cold soil,
which is almost continuously soaked during
these months ; see that the " neck " of each plant
is kept erect, and the result will be most satis-
factory. By careful work of this kind I have
managed to keep such dainty little subjects as
Saxifraga Griesbachii and S. Stribnryi, as well
as many others, while my nearest neighbour
finds that he needs to get a new stock every spring.
— Craigielea, Glasgow.
Thatched Cottages. — In reference to the para-
graph on page i of January 3 issue, while I yield
to no one in appreciation of the cesthetic virtues
of thatch and detestation ot the many ugly modern
buildings of all sizes, I think it should not be over-
looked that there are some thatched buildings
too intimate knowledge of which would certainly
entail disenchantment. Thus, I remember a
very agreeable railway journey in company with
a large family of countryfolk, during which a
chance remark in praise of thatch elicited the
information that they had suffered greatly from
the combination of a sieve-like thatched roof
and a miserly landlord. .\lso I have heard quite
alarming stories bearing upon thatch as a harbour-
age for fleas, and from time to time one reads
most harrowing accounts of how quickly fire
spreads in a village of thatched roofs. Certainly
the question of roofing material seems to me
pre-eminently a matter for cottagers to decide
for themselves, though there can hardly be a doubt
that such people as touring motorists (who are
responsible for such serious new discomforts to
villagers) would be one and all enthusiastic
" thatchites." I really must venture to dissent from
the description of the fine large house illustrated on
page 9 of your issue of January 3 as a " cottage "
(unless, indeed, it refers to the wholly dwarfed
edifice faintly discernible in the background).
I am, of course, well aware that established usage
can be pleaded for calling houses " cottages,"
which, to my idea, bear about as much resemblance
to the genuine article as a pigsty does to a palace ;
but is it not a most foolish affectation ? — Arthur
Garnett, Kew.
SEASONABLE NOTES ON
CHRYSANTHEMUMS.
FORTHCOMING EVENT.
January 27.— Royal Horticultural Society's
Meeting and Exhibition at Vincent Square, West-
minster.
THE value of Chrysanthemum blooms
in December and at Christmas-time
is very great. In some seasons they
are of more value than in others.
Notwithstanding the fact that the
past month has been a favourable
one for flowers of various kinds, those of the
Autumn Queen have been more appreciated
than ever, and the quahty of the blooms
has been higher, too. I think the principal
reason for the high quality and general
good appearance of the flowers is the fact
that more cultivators have restricted the'
number of varieties grown and had more plants
of each.
Scarcity of Cuttings. — There was a general
scarcity of cuttings on the old roots of many
varieties last year, notably on those grown for
late blooming. The old stools must be carefully
preserved on high shelves in greenhouses or in
cold frames. If space cannot be spared for the
old plants in their large pots, carefully turn out
the balls of soil, remove the drainage and reduce
the balls quite two-thirds. Then pack them
close together in boxes about six inches deep,
filling up all spaces with a compost of sand, sifted
loam and leaf-soil. Make it moderately firm,
water through a fine-rosed watering-can, and
place the boxes in a warm position in a greenhouse.
I have often secured a nice lot of sucker cuttings
in the way described from old plants that seemed
to be quite hopeless. Amateur cultivators who
like to grow a good batch of plants for the supply
of cut flowers at Christmas-time should now duly
note how the varieties they have grown this
season have succeeded. Then any failures ex-
perienced can be avoided another year. The
following are
Splendid Varieties for the production of blooms
late in December, at Christmas and during the
first half of January : Mme. Oberthur, white ;
Helena Williams, a pale yellow sport from the
latter ; Mrs. David Syme, pure white, greenish
centre ; A. J. Balfour, a lovely pink, compact
blooms ; December Gold, mid-December ; Mrs.
H. Turner, velvety crimson (when the plants are
pinched they branch freely) ; Mary Thorpe,
soft pink, easy to grow as a bush, on which two
'dozen blooms may be grown ; Niveus, a good
white ; Queen of the Exe, pale blush, the plant
lifts well ; Thorpe's Apricot, a lovely flower for
table decoration ; and Souvenir de Scalarandis,
deep bronze, one of the best for planting out and
lifting. A good companion to the variety A. J.
Balfour is Thorpe's Christmas Rose, which is a
deep rose pink in colour. William Turner, if
grown as a bush, would come in early in December.
For Christmas-time and a week or two later
Western King, pure white ; Nagoya, a deep
golden yellow that keeps well ; Baldock's Crim-
son ; Mrs. Greenfield, golden yellow, reflexed
blooms ; Mrs. J. Thompson, pure white ; and
Embleme Poitevine, an incurved, pure yellow,
should be grown. If two yellows and two
whites only are required, then select Embleme
Poitevine, Nagoya, Mrs. J. Thompson and
Western King. It is important to commence
with good sturdy cuttings that are produced from
the base of the old plants, and to avoid stem
cuttings. Avon.
THE WINTER SPRAYING OF
FRUIT TREES.
THE practice of spraying is becofnihg
much more common than formerly.
Fruit-growers are realising the import'
ance of the work when carried out
properly. They find, when spraying is
done systematically during the winter,
spring and summer, that the trees give much
better results. There is no doubt that if spraying
and other preventive measures to check the spread
of various insect pests and fungoid diseases were
made compulsory by Government, all fruit-growers
would benefit to a considerable extent.
Spraying while the trees are dormant is an
excellent time for the inexperienced to make a
start, as there is not the same risk as when the
trees have made leaves, although there is not the
slightest reason why an injury should be done
to the most delicate tree if the instructions given
are carefully carried out.
Several home-made sprays can be employed
at this season with advantage, and as some prefer
to prepare their own washes, I will give a few
simple recipes for the removal of moss and lichen
from the trees, also of such pests as eggs of the
winter moth, woolly aphis, mussel scale, ova, Apple
blossom weevil, oyster-shell bark lice, earwigs
and the caterpillar of the Codlin moth in its cocoon.
Lime-Wash. — One of the most safe, efficacious
and easily applied is quicklime. Not only
does lime cleanse the trees ot moss and other
extraneous growth, but it is valuable as a
stimulant to crops grovring rmdemeath the trees,
as well as being beneficial to the trees them-
selves, especially where lime is deficient in
the soil. In sandy soil, or in that with a gravel
or clay subsoil, lime is largely employed by fruit-
growers for the double purpose. The best hard-
stone lime is necessary, as obtained from Buxton ;
not that which is soft, as is sometimes the case
when made from some kinds of chalk. Eighty-
six pounds of lime are sufficient for fifty gallons
of water. This amount of lime should be put
into a galvanised vessel, adding a small quantity
of water to start the lime dissolving. As this
proceeds add more water, constantly stirring the
whole with a shovel, never allowing it to become
quite dry nor making it too wet. Just keep it
sufficiently thin to stir and become regularly dis-
solved. When this has taken place, strain the
whole through a fine sieve into another vessel
to remove any small portions that may tend to
choke the pumps or spray nozzles. Add water
sufficient for the quantity noted. There are
various times when lime spraying can be done.
Some begin in November and December, others
not until the buds are bursting in spring. In my
case I usually begin the second week in April.
A large grower of Plums near here does not spray
the trees imtil the blooms are fully developed,
and although many persons would be afraid to
do this so late, I can assiure readers there is no
danger in so doing. The kind of sprayer to use
is purely a matter of choice. I prefer one with a
pneumatic action, which leaves both hands at
liberty to work the sprays. "Various lengths ot
hose and lances are required, according to the
height of the trees to be sprayed. Practice will
soon teach a person how much liquid to use in
coating the trees. It is surprising what a small
quantity is required to cover a branch. The
clusters of spurs and i-ankered portions — if any—
32
THE GARDEN.
[January 17, 1914.
should be carefully covered, as it is in such hiding-
places that the insects lurk. A spraying syringe
answers well where only a few trees have to be done.
Copper Sulphate makes a capital winter wash
lor Apple scab, which is one of the worst enemies
the Apple-grower has to contend with. Dissolve
2lb. of copper sulphate in 50 gallons of soft water.
This is a cheap wash, and will kill all fungus with
which it comes in contact. In applying this wash,
use a fine nozzle, making a thin spray and thoroughly
forcing the liquid into any cankered parts.
Lime Soda and Salt Wash is easily made and
^ipplied. and prevents the hatching of the eggs
of Apple sucker and Plum aphis,
and also cleanses the trees of moss
and lichen. The quantities are
licwt. of good hardstone lime,
351b. of agricultural salt and 31b. of
common washing soda to 100 gallons
of water. Slake and strain the lime
through a fine sieve, dissolve the
soda in hot and the salt in cold
water, adding both to the strained
lime. February is early enough to
commence this spraying, continuing
until the buds are ready to burst ;
then cease.
Woburn Wash. — What is known
as the Woburn wash, and an effec-
tive one, is applied from November
until the end of February. It is
made as follows : Caustic soda,
i^lb. ; copper sulphate, ijlb. ;
lime, Jib.; paraffin emulsion, 5 pints ;
water, 10 gallons. Dissolve the
copper sulphate in 6 gallons of
water and slake the lime in
3 gallons of water. The dissolved
copper sulphate should be nm
through a fine sieve to remove any
portions of a gritty character. Then
add the parafhn emulsion and stir
them together, adding the caustic
soda previously dissolved and suffi-
cient water to make 10 gallons.
The paraffin emulsion requires
careful preparation. Boil a gallon
of skim milk gently, adding
2 gallons of paraffin by pouring it
gently into the middle of the milk,
but not in sufficient quantity to
take the milk off the boil. Add
rjlb. of soft soap, gently whipping
it up in the middle of the vessel.
Keep it away from the side of the
vessel, as it is so liable to bum.
Of prepared washes which I know-
to be effective and which are no
trouble to prepare, Bentley's Con-
centrated Alkali Wash is most
efficacious in cleansing the trees
from moss and lichen, rendering the
bark quite bright and imparting a
dark colour to it. In using this mi,\ture I would
caution users not to drench the trees unnecessarily
with it, especially standards, because the stems
become too saturated with the wash nmning down,
collecting as it does from the branches to the stem,
and, of course, the older the tree the more numerous
are the lodgments in the stem for the wash to collect.
Simply moisten the whole of the branches with
a fine spray that is sufficient for the purpose.
Dissolve the contents of one tin in 15 gallons of
slightly warm, soft water.
Bishop's Waltham, Hants. E. Molvneu.x,
A BEAUTIFUL BARBERRY.
Berberis polvantha.
This ornamental Barberry was introduced a
few years ago from China by Mr. E. H. Wilson,
who describes it as one of the best flowering
shrubs in the whole of the Berberis family native
of China. A deciduous species, B. polyantha
grows 5 feet to 10 feet in height, forming a large,
much-branched bush. The leaves grow in clusters,
pleasing light green in colour, obovate, and about
an inch long. The attractive golden yellow flowers
are borne in fairly large panicles, which are 6 inches
or more in length. These are followed by numerous
COLOURED PLATE.
PL.ATB 1485.
RAISING
T
FRUITING SPRAYS OF THE NEW BERBERIS POLYANTHA. THIS
ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SPECIES OF ITS FAMILY.
rather small coral red fruits, which hang on the
bushes into the New Year, long after the foliage
has fallen. It thrives under similar conditions
to other members of the family, and is readily
raised from seeds. Mr. A. E. Pratt, who collected
herbarium specimens in Western China during
1889 and 1890, appears to have been the first to
discover the plant, though it was apparently
left to Mr. E. H. Wilson to introduce the first
plants to our gardens. He collected seeds at an
altitude of 6,000 feet to 10,000 feet on the
uplands of the Chino-Tibetan borderland.
TUBEROUS BEGONIAS
FROM SEED.
IME was when tuberous Begonias were
largely increased by means of cuttings,
but now the art of seed-saving has
become such an exact science that
the single varieties can be practically
obtained true from seed. For the
choicer double forms propagation by cuttings
is still followed, but seed saved from a good collec-
tion will yield a large percentage
of fine double flowers such as are
invaluable for purposes of decora-
tion, either indoors or out. Begonia
seed may be sown any time during
the first three or four months of
the year ; but where the plants
are required to yield a good return
of blossoms during the summer of
the year in which they are sown,
this operation must be carried out
in January or February. The pots
or pans must be perfectly clean
and effectually drained to within
2 inches or 3 inches of the surface.
The Best Soil for Seed-Sowing.
— .A suitable compost for the recep-
tion of the seeds may be formed
of two parts of good friable loam
to three parts of leaf-mould, with
a liberal sprinkling of sand or equal
parts of leaf-mould and loam and
sand combined. Tliis material must
then be thoroughly rubbed through
a sieve with a quarter of an inch
mesh, the rougher portions being
put on one side in order to place
themimmediately over the drainage
material. The leaf-mould used
must be of good quality, and, if
possible, from such trees as Oak
and Beech. It will be a very great
advantage to thoroughly sterilise
the soil before using. The prepared
compost which has passed through
the quarter of an inch mesh may
then be put in its place to witliin
half an inch of the rim of the pot.
It must be pressed down moderately
firm and made level, but not patted
hard on the top, as is so often
done. Next pass a little of the
prepared soil through a sieve with
an eiglith of an inch mesh, and
finish olf the pots or pans with a
layer of this finer material. The
soil must then be thoroughly
watered, which may be done by
means of a very fine rose ; but
a better plan is to stand the
pots or pans in a vessel of water, which
must be below the rims of the receptacles.
In this way the water will slowly enter by the
hole in the bottom and gradually soak through
the whole of the soil. After the seed is sown,
watering must be done in the same way, as
by this means the minute seeds are not disturbed
in the least.
Sowing the Seed. — The pots having been
prepared and watered, the seed should be sown
while the surface is still wet, and on this the tiny
seeds will at once adhere. Great care must be
IS
Supplement lo THE GARDEN. January \-jtli, 1914.
.^00'0
>
^/
X
^
TUBEROUS BEGONIA
KING GEORGE V.
Hiiihon & Kcui-iis. Lid., Prnilcr^. l.niidun. S.B.
January 17, 1914.
THE GARDEN.
33
taken not to sow too thickly, to obviate which
some cultivators mix a little very dry and fine
silver sand with it, while others prefer to sow
direct without this mixture. From its minute
character the seed will not need covering, but a
sheet of glass may be laid over the pot till germi-
nation takes place.
After-Treatment. — The pots must then be
placed in a structure with a minimum night
temperature of 65°, rising, of course, during the
day. If the weather is genial, the soil may
require no more watering till the young plants
appear ; but in any case, if watering is needed,
it should be done as before directed.
The Seedlings. — As soon as the tiny plants
are large enough to handle, they must be pricked
off into other pots, pans or boxes. These should
be prepared in much the same way as for the
sowing of the seed. The operation of pricking
off is an exceedingly delicate one, and
is best accomplished by using two
pointed sticks about the size of a
pencil. In one a notch should be cut
in the Shape of a narrow V. This
must be manipulated by the left hand,
its use being to lift up the tiny plant
and place it in a hole previously pre-
pared by the pointed stick held in the
right hand. This must also be used
to press the soil around the roots.
When a pot is finished, it must be
watered as before and returned to the
warm structure whence it has come.
Shading from bright sunshine will, of
course, be necessary, but particularly
so till the roots take possession of
the new soil.
The Young Plants. — As the young
plants develop they must, when suffi-
ciently advanced, be potted singly
into 2i-inch or 3-inch pots, using
much the same compost as before,
but it need not be sifted so finely.
They must not be allowed to get
pot-bound, and for their next shift a
larger proportion of loam may be
added to the compost. Before bedding-
out-time the plants should be gradu-
ally hardened off, at which period
they will, if they have done well, be
good, sturdy examples in 4-inch pots.
From these pots those intended for
l>edding may be planted out ; but
where required for greenhouse decora-
tion, they must be shifted into larger
pots. If carefully attended to, they
will flower throughout the summer and well on
into the autumn. The principal pests that attack
tuberous Begonias are aphides, the Begonia mite
and eelworm. Aphides can be readily destroyed
by fumigation or vaporising, while this latter,
if persisted in, will keep the mite in check. This
mite is a most insidious foe, as it often does irre-
parable' damage before its presence is suspected.
Badly affected plants should be dipped in some
insecticide into whose composition nicotine enters
largely. Eelworm, which has been a good deal
in evidence within the last few years, is present
in the soil and makes its way into the tissues
of the plant. The potting soil should be sterilised
in some way or other. A very simple method
was given by Mr. C. F. Langdon of Bath in his
paper read at a meeting of the Royal Horticultural
Society last August, namely, to mix a 4-inch potful
of newly slaked lime with every eight bushels
of soil, well mixing it a few days before using.
He advised the use of a little more lime on
suspected soils. H. P.
[The plant from which our coloured plate was
prepared was kindly furnished by Messrs. T. S.
Ware, Limited, of Feltham. — Ed.]
SOME USEFUL PLANTS
FOR THE ROCK GARDEN.
ERODIUMS OR HERON'S BILLS.
A LITTLE-KNOWN ORCHID.
Paphinia cristata.
The Orchid family contains many remarkable
species and varieties. Many of them are of a
very complex structure, and some are of sur-
passing beauty. The singular-looking species
illustrated on this page may perhaps be considered
more curious than beautiful. It is, however,
of very striking appearance. The flowers on the
outside are more or less white, but within they
T
HE genus Erndium does not seem to be
cultivated in the alpine garden so
much as its beauty and decorative
value justifies. While some species
are inclined to be tender — or at least
liable to vanish during our miserable
winters — very many of them are by no means
difficult to cultivate, provided we give them
very gritty soil from which all surplus
moisture readily drains away, and a position
open to the sun all day. When visiting Geneva
last summer I was much struck by the varied
species of Erodium grown by M. Dallinges at
A BLARE ORCHID (PAPHINIA CRISTATAI. THE FLOWERS ARE BANDED AND STRIPED IN DEEP^
CHOCOLATE PURPLE.
are interruptedly banded and striped with deep Chene-Bourg,
purple or chocolate maroon.
Moreover, the flowers are crested — hence the
specific name cristata — and the heavily lined sepals
and petals are from 3 inches to 4 inches long.
This plant has in recent times created a good
deal of interest among lovers of rare Orchids,
and last July it was granted an award of merit
from the Royal Horticultural Society when
shown by Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Hay-
ward's Heath. It is not, however, a new species,
for it was introduced from Trinidad as long
ago as 1834.
suburb of that beautiful city,
and later I obtained a collection from him. For
their reception I rebuilt a portion of my tiny
garden, putting in, at a depth of 2 feet, a layer
6 inches thick of burnt ballast the size of
chickens' eggs, and above this a compost of loam,
sand, burnt ballast grit, and old mortar, in about
equal proportions, in addition to a small quantity
of leaf-mould.
Among the species which are thriving apace
under these conditions are Erodium chrysanthum,
E. Guiccardi, E. daucoides (the Carrot-leaved
Erodium), E. macradenum, E. sibthorpianum, E.
In common with many other orchidaceous j corsicum, E. supracanum, together with its beautiful
plants, Paphinia cristata has the misfortune white form, and E. trichoraansefolium. As will
to possess many synonyms. In addition to its ■ be seen from the illustration on page 34, the
present name it has been placed under the genera foliage of the last-named plant is very dwart,
Maxillaria and Lycaste, although the specific compact, and somewhat glaucous ; indeed, under
name cristata has been applied in all instances, certain conditions of lighting it is quite silvery. The
34
THE GARDEN.
[January 17, 1Q14.
Bowers are white, with five rosy purple veins on
each of the five petals.' The two upper petals
display a silvery black blotch at their base,
and upon these the veins are very pronounced.
During the end of May, through June and July
until August, the flowers were produced in quanti-
ties, while seed was formed from every blossom.
One very interesting feature in connection with
many of the Erodiums is the way in which the angle
of the flower-stalks varies after the embryo fruit
ROSE-GROWING IN
GARDENS.
TOWN
G
OOD red Roses are still scarce in the
Hybrid Tea section, despite the
efforts of the principal raisers to
fulfil our requirements. It would
seem now, however, that we are
within measurable distance of having
is pollinated. As a rule, the flowers are produced our desires gratified in this respect. Readers of
in clusters of five upon short stalks, rising from I Mr. Molyneux's interesting " Notes on the Newer
the upper part of a rigid main stalk some 5 inches
or 9 inches long ; and when they open they are
in the same plane as this main stalk, viz., pointing
upwards. After the fruit is fertilised, the short
footstalk bends from the point of juncture at a
right angle (sometimes even more than 150°),
Roses " will have observed his unstinted praise
of George Dickson. Everything seems to point
to this variety becoming the most popular red
for town as well as country, and I have heard
nothing but praise of it yet. Of Edward
Mawley great things were expected, but it
while the fruit itself also alters its angle upon the has proved disappointing.
ERODIUM TRICHOMAN/EFOLIUM, A DWARF HERON's BILL WITH WHITE FLOWERS AND CURIOUS
SEED-PODS.
footstalk in such a way as to still point directly
upwards, though distant from the unopened flowers
by the length of the short stalk (usually about an
inch), this leaving ample room for the later flower
to expand. 1 imagine this curious movement
(which is very decided, and in no way connected
with drooping from the increasing weight of the
fruit) is to displace the very large, spear-like
seed-pods as far from the buds as possible,
thereby preventing the latter from hindering
the opening or pollination of the former as far as
possible.
Owing to the beautiful downy character of the
foliage of many of the Erodiums and their intense
dislike of moisture about their crowns, it is advisable
to place a piece of glass a few inches above them
during our sodden winters, especially if the district
is subject to fogs, which often bring down much
dirt upon the plants. R. A. Malby.
Richmond should be in every garden. It
grows freely, if not very vigorously, and flowers
as continuously as any Hybrid Tea, which is saying
a good deal. Unfortunately, it is rather subject
to mildew, and the second and succeeding crops
of bloom are apt to be of poor quality unless the
plants are well looked after in the matter of feeding.
Like Mrs. W. J. Grant, this is a Rose that requires
and deserves extra nourishment. General Mac-
arthur, almost equally free-flowering, has a sturdier
growth and better constitution, but the bloom is
not nearly so shapely. Neither can be called
an exhibition variety, though Richmond occa-
sionally produces a flower good enough to show.
Avoca IS splendid in colour, size and shape, and
makes tremendous growth ; but, unfortunately,
it blooms but once. Every exhibitor should
have it. Laurent Carle shapes well, but docs
not open freely enough, nor can jt be called free-
flowering. G. C. Waud, Leslie Holland and
Chateau de Clos Vougeot are all beautiful Roses,
but cannot be recommended for towns. Griiss
an Teplitz should be grown as a free bush and
left practically unpruned. Under favourable
conditions it is then good, both early and late.
Only those with ample space should plant it.
The Lyon Rose is one few gardeners would
care to be without. It may not be all that a town
Rose should be, but one can forgive its few faults
for its numerous virtues. Betty is quite a good
Rose to grow, as is also Earl of Warwick, which
is especially good in autumn. These Roses of
combined yellow and pink shades always commend
themselves, particularly to ladies. Usually they
are rather variable in colour, hot weather fading
the yellow in them until it is hardly perceptible.
Bettj' has few and long petals, while Earl of
Warwick is full. Both can be exhibited. Phari-
saer and Mme. Leon Pain are also
rather alike in colour of the
Chatenay type. Both are excellent
town Roses, the last named being
the better for the garden, of deeper
colouring and more profuse in flower-
ing, though Pharisaer produces
rather larger blooms. Lady Ash-
town, in many other respects
ideal, is badly subject to mildew,
but those who can cope with this
should always grow it. Colour and
shape are both exquisite.
Princess Marie Mertchersky is a
satisfactory Rose that always seems
to come well, and Mrs. Theodore
Roosevelt is also of perfect shape.
Both are good, but not comparable
with Mme. Leon Pain, tor instance,
in point of freedom of flowering.
Of light pinks, Augustine Guinois-
seau is most satisfactory for bed-
ding. Lady Ursula would be far
more useful if it were not so
reluctant to open its flowers, . those
on the smaller shoots being prac-
tically useless.
Those who grow for (exhibition
will lind it necessary to supple-
ment the kinds named, or as
many of them as they may choose,
with a number that are less satis-
factory in growth or do not flower
freely. Bessie Brown, Dean Hole,
Mildred Grant, Florence Pemberton,
William Shean, Oberhofgartner Terks
and Mrs. J. H. Welch are among
those best suited for this purpose. Though
they cannot be called town Roses, these will
yield some magnificent blooms if tended carefully ;
but many of them will show signs of going back,
and it is necessary to replace such plants fre-
quently. Many people like to have a few large
bushes from which quantities of bloom may be
gathered. The Bourbon Roses and their hybrids
are excellent for this, the best being Zephyrin
Drouhin, Mme. Isaac Pereire and Mrs. Paul.
Rugosas, of which the best is Conrad F. Meyer,
also do well in towns, but the blooms are not
lasting. The last named is a strong and
vigorous grower, that is well adapted for
training over a high fence where a screen is
needed. The principal Hybrid Perpetuals for
town gardens will be discussed in the next
article, which will appear in the issue dated
January 31st. P. h- Goddard.
January 17, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
35
IN A HAMPSHIRE GARDEN.
SOME
R
A NOBLE BORDER PLANT.
EREMURUS HIMALAICUS.
FT and again the Eremuri have
been recommended for grouping,
and surely no greater tribute
to their worth in that direction
could be adduced than that afforded
by the illustration accompanying
these notes, which is from a photograph taken
in Colonel H. Moore's garden at Higher Wood-
combe, Minehead, Somerset. Of still greater
HKbl
o
OF THE NEWER CLIMBING
ROSES.
^EALLY good climbers are the scarcest
of all Roses, and the hybridist has
plenty of scope in this section. The
really perpetual climbers are few and
far between, and any new Roses that
appear under this heading are
apparently limited to climbing sports of the
Hybrid Teas and Teas. They have
the not inconsiderable drawback
that every now and then they
refuse to climb and revert back to
the dwarf plants or parents. The
wichuraianas provide us with most
of our new climbers, and they are,
for the most part, only seasonal
flowerers, giving us a great show
of blossom, it is true, but only
for a few weeks of the year. Per-
liaps it will be convenient to deal
tirst of all with the new varieties
of this section.
Aviateur Bleriot (Fauque ct
ImIs, igio). — This is an excellent
colour in the bud and young flowers
that are produced in small clusters ;
but it is not, so far, with me a
very strong grower, and would
seem to be best fitted for a pillar
or wall rather than for an arch or
pergola. The foliage is pretty and
persistent, hut the flowers are only
medium size, of a good saffron
yellow, with a fair number of
ppfals. I think I prefer both
Shower of Gold and Klondyke to
this variety.
Coronation {Turner, 1912). —
This is a fine glowing colour, but
the crimson-scarlet flowers are
streaked or splashed with white ;
a very vigorous habit of growth,
and the large trusses of flowers
are very effective as seen from a
distance. This Rose improves on
acquaintance.
Ethel (Turner, 1912). — A scmi-
d'Hible flower of flesh pink shade.
Like Coronation, this can be
described as a very vigorous
grower. It did not flower very
freely with me last year; but per-
liaps it had hardly got established.
Klondyke (Paul and Son, 1911).
— Pale primrose yellow flowers ;
but I shall be forgiven, perhaps, if
I state that the beauty of the
plint lies in the foliage. It is
well worth growing for its foliage
alone, and I can very strongly
recommend it to all table decora-
tors. I bad to place an embargo
on it in my garden, or there would have been no 1 value, from the gardening point of
SEEDLINGS OF EREMURUS HIMALAICUS, THREE YEARS AFTER
PLANTING, IN A SOMERSET GARDEN.
important gardening lesson of all, viz., that we.
should raise seedlings of these things if our gardens
are to afford us the picture groups these noble
plants are capable of giving. Too often to-day,
it is to be feared, the amateur ignores the seeds,
the original clump continuing to yield but a tithe
of the flower-beauty that might have been, had
a few generations of seedlings been raised and
planted from time to time.
It is not that we require them everywhere in the
garden, so that the eye meets them at every turn, but
rather that theyshould play theirpart alone — albeit
boldly and in proportion to their
merits — in shrubbery or sheltering
bay, on the confines of woodland
or park, or, indeed, any place
where there existed a foil capable
of throwing into fullest relief their
unique beauty. In arranging such
groups an item of the utmost
importance is that of shelter —
shelter, not so much from the
winter's intenser cold, as from the
ill-effects of nipping frost or
withering blast of spring. Hence
protectioit from north and east
becomes a sort of necessity be-
cause of the early appearing of
their somewhat tender leafage. In
every other respect the plants are
absolutely hardy ; their great
crowns might even protrude from
the soil and suffer no injury in
times of severest frost, though we
are prone to give them a protective
covering at such a time. The
presence of a suitable foil as a
means of reflecting the fullest
beauty of these plants has already
been remarked upon, though of not
less worth is the surrounding
greenery to their leafless flower-
stems. Occasionally one sees these
Eremuri rather closely associated
with dwarf shrubs about their
bases, and the idea may easily be
carried to excess, to the detriment
of both. Radiating like the spokes
of a cart wheel from a common
centre and somewhat shallowly
placed in the ground, interference
with the shrubs may cause serious
mutilation to the roots of these
plants. For this same reason of
superficial root spread I am of
opinion that the ordinary herba-
ceous border is not quite the place
for these Eremuri, though one sees
them not infrequently so placed
as isolated specimens. Such plant-
ings, however permissible a decade
or two ago, should find no place in
gardening with these plants to-day,
when, with fuller knowledge of
them, they are worthy of the best
the garden or woodland affords. A
these plants, in common with
is the , peculiarity of
fact that the group shown in the picture is still Asphodel, Anthericum and the like, is that they
a youthful one, seeing that it was planted only form crown upon crown to such an extent as to
three years or so ago, the plants at the time being presently lift themselves to the surface, strong-
seedlings of comparatively small size. Hence growing subjects like the Eremuri, because of
year's experience. There is no doubt, however, at ! the picture demonstrates not only the value their great crowns and thong-like roots, soon
all about the beauty of the plant. I of grouping, but equally that of planting such revealing their positions by the uplifting of the soil
Soutliampton. Herbert E. Molyneux. j things in the early stages of their existence. Then, alone. The only remedy for this state of things
{To be coHlinued.) | from the suggestive standpoint comes the most ' is replanting, which shnuld be done in October.
plant left. It has been described as an improved
Gardenia, but with me, so far, shows no signs of
that Rose's vigorous growth. But here again it is,
perhaps, hardly fair to form an opinion on one
36
THE GARDEN.
[January 17. 1014.
From the foregoing remarks it will be noted
probably that a greater superficial area of soil
rather than a great depth is necessary for these
plants, and the deduction would be fairly correct,
though soil depth must not be ignored. In plant-
ing the Eremuri it is well to remember that in
flowering they afford a succession for some weeks,
the white-flowered kind so well portrayed in the
illustration being one of the earliest, and Shelford,
Warei (bronzy orange) and Bungei (yellow) appear-
ing at the other end of the chain. In any attempt
to raise seedlings, the important fact should be
remembered that seeds soon lose their vitality ;
hence it would be prudent to sow the seeds a few
weeks after maturing. It would be well, too, to
make the sowing in a frame, and sufficiently thin
that the seedlings may remain to their second
year, always transplanting them in autumn when
dormant. E. H. Jenkins.
THE HERBACEOUS OR
MIXED BORDER.
HOW TO MAKE AND MAINTAIN IT.
(Continued from page 19.)
Propagation. — Many people are at sea regard-
ing the propagation of hardy border flowers.
The division of old plants and the raising of new
stocks from seeds comprise the sum of their
knowledge. Even such a simple operation as
division has its variations. A spade, or two
forks in the hands of the less clumsy, does not
include all, for there are numbers of plants which
give of their best only when divided carefully into
very small portions. The better species of Aconitum
should be annually divided into single crowns,
the best selected and planted singly, according
as they are wanted, in clumps, when 4 inches to
6 inches apart is a proper distance, or, if mi.xed
with other plants, spaced to suit these. Senecio
tanguticus, Helianthus D. Dewar and H. Miss
Mellish should be treated in the same manner,
allowing wider spaces, the first named at a foot
apart being none too little. Similar treatment
suits some of the fibrous-rooted section. Surely
no plant is more ugly than the double Rudbeckia
laciniata grown with many stems together and
these tied to a stake, with the heads of its lovely
golden flowers drooping as if ashamed of their
plight. But plant these singly a few inches apart,
and the need of support of any kind, as in the case
of many other plants given a like treatment,
is done away with, and its full beauty is displayed
without any drawback.
The varieties of Chrysanthemum maximum
afford examples of subjects which may be planted
singly — just slips with one growth and a few
roots to start them with, or larger pieces with
several growths. These grow tall, and need
support of some kind to keep them from sprawling
over the border. The first named, on the other
hand, are comparatively dwarf, need no stakes,
and produce a broad mass of bloom of equal height.
Nine inches apart is as wide as they should be
arranged. C. uliginosum is best treated in much
the same way, only the pieces must be set much
closer. Several Asters succeed best from single
growths planted close together, the Novi-Belgii
section more particularly, also puniceus and
corymbosus ; but the varieties of viminalis, eri-
coides, acris, Amellus and Linosyris should have
a few growths each and be planted a little wider
apart. Rudbeckia spsciosa should be annually
transplanted, but not in single growths, only the
divided pieces when planted must be touching
each other to afford the best effect.
Varieties of Anthemis tinctoria give much the
best results when replanted annually, but, instead
of rooted pieces, cuttings should be inserted in
the autumn in a frame and transplanted in spring.
These are quite as floriferous as old plants, but
grow not nearly so tall, the one fault of the latter.
Erigeron does best pulled into small pieces and
planted close enough to meet when in flower ;
E. mucronatus, either from cuttings or seeds.
Nepeta Mussinii is always best from cuttings
in autumn, and so is Pentstemon heterophyllus,
as a rule. Phloxes should not be over-propagated.
New varieties are easily increased from root
cuttings, and older ones from stem cuttings ;
but usually for decorative effect a plant with
several stems, though the heads of bloom may be
smaller, is to be preferred to the smaller ones.
Raising Plants from Seeds.— Quite a number
of useful plants can be raised from seeds. Such
PROPAGATION OF HERBACEOUS PLANTS.
A — Slip 0/ Solidago, Aster, itc, for -planting dose
to form a mass. B — Root cutting of Verbena
venosa. C — Root cutting of Phlox. D — Eye
cutting of Hollyhock ; many herbaceous plants
are increased in this way. EE — Roots of
Aconitum ; plant 3 indies deep. The bars
represent the soil level.
are Delphiniums, Lupines and Agapanthuses, but
the seedling Agapanthus must be grown on in pots
till they have attained flowering size. Heucheras,
Dictamnus Fraxinella, Centranthus ruber. Holly-
hocks, Isatis glauca, Dianthus species, Papaver
rupifragum, P. pilosum, Gladioli, Sea Hollies,
Tritomas and Scabiosa caucasica constitute a
selection. The double forms of Hesperis matro-
nalis may be propagated either from pieces of the
stems in summer or from the little root growths,
which should be kept in a frame during the winter.
These make the best plants. Lychnis, Holly-
hocks and many other plants may also be increased
from the stems, cut into short pieces. From pieces
of the roots Verbena venosa, Romneya Coulteri,
Anemone japonica, Anchusa, suffruticose Phloxes
and Oriental Poppies are easy of increase. There
is also a class of plants which, once established,
may be left indefinitely without lifting and divid-
ing. Examples of such are perennial Statices,
Spir;ea Aruncus, herbaceous Pajonies, Tritomas,
Helleborus niger varieties. Anemone japonica,
A. angulosa, Dictamnus Fraxinella and Astilbe
rivularis. Pinks, Sweet Williams and some of
the Mule Pinks may be pulled to pieces in
September and the stems inserted in the groimd,
and all will make nice flowering plants the
succeeding year.
Some perennials flower the same year if raised
early and started in heat. Such are Delphiniums,
Lupinus polyphyllus in variety, Scabiosa caucasica.
Cheiranthus, Pentstemons, Daisies, Chrysanthe-
mums, Verbenas and Antirrhinum majus varieties.
These and others similarly produced are
very valuable for autumnal effects, and, in a word,
many plants may be increased from seeds with
the greatest advantage. A few biennials are
especially valuable. Such are Campanula pyra-
midalis, Gilia coronopifolia. Foxgloves (the white
especially), Canterbury Bells, Sweet Williams,
Hesperis matronalis (the single varieties). East
Lothian Stocks in mauve, crimson, purple and
white, Lychnis Agrostemma and Columbines.
Some of these assume a perpetual character, but
on the whole young plants are the more effective.
Of Annuals the number that may be used
is very large, some hardy, others tender. The
greater part of the last named I raise on beds of
soil in cold frames, the seeds being sown early
in April and afterwards pricked out into beds
in reserve, to be transplanted in autumn to fill
vacancies caused by the earlier plants which have
done blooming. The best of these are African
Marigolds, the doubles being separated from the
singles when in flower and arranged in masses
of a colour. Few autunmal flowers are more
gloriously beautiful than these. The dwarf
forms are usually planted in June where they
are to flower, as also are French Marigolds, of
! which the deep browns, both dwarf and tall,
are very effective. China Asters are treated in
much the same manner, some being kept in reserve,
I others planted at once. Dobbie's Quilled and
Ostrich Plume are the two sections I prefer. The
old, tall Ageratum mexicanum gives good results
if raised in heat annually. Other good annuals are
Lobel's Catchfly, Statice sinuata (white and mauve
especially) and S. Suworowii (finer than S.
spicata). The tall form of Alonsoa Warscewiczii
is very brilliant. Love-lies-bleeding and Prince's
Feather should be sown either under glass or
late in the open. The crimson-leaved form of
Atriplcx hortensis is in-
dispensable, as also is
Kochia tricophylla.
To these should be added
Stock-flowered and Em-
peror Larkspurs, which are
so^vn in boxes and ger-
minated in heat to secure
an early start, the seed-
lings being dibbled into
their places when quite
small or before the tap-
roots have been formed ;
Lavatera rosea and Clarkia
elegans (double) in various
colours; Brachycome
iberidifolia, of which white is the best ; common
Marigolds, Anagallis grandiflora, several Chr>-san-
themums, Convolvulus tricolor, Dianthus Salmon
Queen, Godetia Schaminnii flore pleno, Matricaria
Golden Ball, Nemesia in great variety, Nigella
Miss Jekyll, Saponaria calabrica. Scabious,
Tropasolum aduncum, Xeranthemum annuum
and Virginian Stock. This is not an exhaustive
list, but all those named possess much merit as
border plants.
Prestonkirk. N.B. R. P. Brotherston.
{To he continued.)
LARKSPUR SEEDLING,
SHOWING STAGE OF
GROWTH TO PLANT.
January 17, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
37
THE TRAINING OF WALL FRUIT TREES.
trees against walls, the base of the trees should be
brought about lo inches forward away from the
wall.
CORDON iruit trees become increasingly
popular each year, and the reason
is not far to seek, for such trees are
easily managed, while space is
economised to the greatest extent.
The early training of the trees is
usually carried out in the nursery, and when the
cordons leave the nursery they should not only
possess main stems as straight as gun-rods, but
also be furnished almost to the ground-
level with fruiting spurs. If good trees are pro-
cured from the nursery ta the first place, it then
requires only common-sense methods to retain
those trees well trained in one's own garden.
Speaking generally, cordons should be planted
obliquely. The reason for planting them on the
slope is that a greater extension can be given
to the leaders, which should not be carried above
the top of the wall. Vertical cordons should only
be placed against high walls or pillars, and even
then over-vigorous varieties should not be planted.
\ point worth noting in planting cordons is that
the more pronounced the inchne, the further apart
should the trees be placed. Double cordons
or U-shaped trees are sometimes preferred, and
occasionally one sees a wall planted with triple
cordons ; but for all practical purposes the single
cordon gives the best result. Horizontal cor-
dons, with low branches about one foot from
the soil and framed parallel to the ground, are
favoured for forming edgings to borders. Growth,
however, is so restricted that trees trained in this
maimer rarely live for very many years. Slow-
growing Apples on Paradise stock are best suited
for horizontal cordons. The horizontal trained
tree, with branches arranged tier upon tier, is one
of the best forms of trained trees for planting against
walls. ShouH the branches on one side of the
tree grow at the expense of those on the opposite
side, the vigorous branches should be tied down
temporarily. This will weaken them, while the
weak branches may be strengthened by being
raised. Much may also be said in favour of the
fan-framed tree, particularly with such fruits
as Morello Cherries, Peaches, Nectarines and
Apricots. The illustration on this page depicts
a fan-shaped Pear which, it should be noted, is
splendidly furnished with fruiting spurs. The Pear,
however, is one of the easiest trees to train, and will
do equally well as a cordon, either single or double
or horizontally trained. Another type of wall
tree worthy of note is the trained standard fan.
Obviously it is only suited to very high walls
or buildings. On the Continent it is regarded as a
lucrative way of covering the upper part of one's
house.
Apples, Pears and Plums. — in pruning trained
trees the object should be to make every branch
a cordon, with fruit spurs along the entire length
of the branch. " Once a fruit spur always a
fruit spur " is an old saying among fruit-growers.
In order to secure fruiting spurs it is necessary
to prune hard the second season after planting,
and the following season the resultant vigorous
growth should be shortened to about one-third
its length. Summer pruning is important. It is
accomplished by pruning or pinching back lateral
growths to the extent of about 4 inches in July.
This should be annually followed by winter pruning,
when the side growths are cut back to two or
three eyes. The fruiting spurs should, of course.
never be pruned. With horizontal trained trees
the leader should be cut back to within a foot
of the top horizontal tier, and with cordons it
may be shortened in proportion.
Peaches and Nectarines. — Unlike the Apple
and Pear, these trees fruit upon the young wood,
and not on fruiting spurs. The main shoots
should be shortened about one foot in winter, and
overcrowded growths thinned to the base. The
young or fruiting wood should be retained and
laid in on the upper side of the leaders only. This
will ensure uniformity in fan-shaped trees and
avoid the crossing of branches.
Gooseberries and Red Currants. — These fruits
give capital results if trained as cordons. The
terminal or leader should not be shortened except
to keep the cordons within bounds. All side
growths should be pinched back to three eyes
in the summer.
Aspects for Fruit Trees. — Pears, Plums,
cordon .Apples and dessert Cherries mav be given
WHY SEEDS SOMETIMES
FAIL.
Of course, bad seeds will not germinate under
any treatment. Sometimes, however, good ones
fail to do so, even when every convenience exists
for their proper treatment. There are several
causes for failure, namely, sowing too deeply,
not deep enough, a too wet soil, and also a too
dry one. Now, to be successful, the reader will
at once think that the happy medium must be
secured in each case. If it is, there will not be
many failures ; but with a certain amount of
moisture we must also have heat. If seeds are
sown in a very cold soil at this season, many may
perish in it, especially if the soil be very wet.
Seeds of the more tender kinds of plants require
a warmer temperature than those of hardier
kinds. Example : Cucumber seeds would decav
A WELL-TRAINED FAN-SHAPED PEAR TREE. NOTE THAT EACH ROD IS FURNISHED
WITH FRUIT SPURS.
either easterly, westerly or intermediate positions.
Morello Cherries and certain Pears do well from
north to east, and the same aspect may be given
to Gooseberries and Red and White Currants.
Apricots, Figs, Nectarines and Peaches should
be given a westerly to southerly position.
Planting. — The work of planting is best carried
out in the autumn, but it may be successfully
accomplished at any time when growth is dormant,
providing, of course, that the weather is open
and that the soil may be readily worked. It is a
common mistake to over-manure the soil at the
time of planting. Providing that the soil has
been previously worked, very little, if any,
manure need be applied, and even then only well-
rotted manure should be incorporated with the
soil. In cases where the soil is deficient in lime,
the addition of a little lime rubble around the roots
of each tree will prove highly beneficial ; in fact,
the value of lime rubble for fruit trees generally
cannot be overrated. When planting trained
in the soil if given similar conditions to those of
Broad Beans, but the latter would germinate
quickly if treated the same as Cucumber seeds. In
very hot weather — in summer-time — it is abso-
lutely necessary to give seeds a moistSr soil
than in January, February and March. Dust-
like seeds — those of Begonias, for example —
should be sown on a moist surface where coarse
sand is plentiful. Celery seeds should have a
quarter of an inch of tine soil evenly scattered
on them ; Cucumber seeds require nearly an inch
of soil ; Peas rather more ; Broad Beans quite
2 inches ; and so on. The soil must be main-
tained in an even state of moisture. Many culti-
vators cover the seed-vessels with glass and paper.
If the covering is removed in good time, the
young seedlings will not be damaged ; but if
left on too long — even a day in some cases — the
seedlings are much weakened and often die after-
wards. Never sow thickly, as crowded seedlings
are always weakly. Shamrock.
38
THE GARDEN.
[JanuarV 17, 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
Peach Trees in late houses should be prepared
tor forcing with as little delay as possible. In
pruning the trees all gross shoots that can be
spared should be cut away, leaving the medium
wood with a space of at ieast 4 inches between
the shoots when tied, for it must be remembered
that at least one young shoot will have to be tied
into each space before the season is very far
advanced. If the trees are infested with any
insects, they must be carefully washed with a
solution of some approved insecticide. The
borders should be examined, and if the roots
are near the surface, a sprinkling of bone-meal
may be applie"d previous to a top-dressing of loam
and old lime rubble. If the border is dry, water
should be given in sufficient quantity to reach
the extremities of the roots,
Late Vines. — Anv Grapes that remain on the
Vines should be cut^ and placed in the fruit-room,
where they inay be kept in good condition for
several weeks. The ventilators should then
be opened and the Vines pruned as soon as possible.
Remove all loose bark without breaking the
inner bark, and if mealy bug is present on the
Vines, they should be carefully washed with
Gishurst Compound and warm water. At the
same time the interior of the vinery must be
thoroughly cleaned. If any additions to the
borders are contemplated, these should be made
at once. It is better practice to make small
additions to the border each season than to place
a large quantity of soil in the house at one time,
as this may become sour, and consequenlly the
crop will be unsatisfactory.
Plants Under Glass.
Roses in pots should be pruned now and placed
in a temperature of 45". The crocks should be
examined so that the water may pass freely from
the pots, and, if necessary, a top-dressing of rich
loam and lime rubble should be applied. If a
constant supplv of blooms is necessary, a few
fresh plants should be introduced to heat every
ten days. Good drainage and careful ventilation
are of the greatest importance.
Cannas. — Old roots of Cnnnas may be shaken
out and repotted in a compost of rich loam and
thorouglily decayed cow-manure. They may
be started into growth in a temperature of 60°.
Seeds may be sown now in small pots for flowering
the following season. These seeds are slow to
germinate, and may be soaked in water with a
temperature of go" for twelve hours previous to
sowing.
The Conservatory. — Various flowering shrubs
should be in readiness now to take the place of
Chrysanthemums. Many of these are easily
forced, and may be had in quantity, providing a
reserve plot is available to grow and prepare them
during the summer.
The Flower Garden.
Taking Cuttings for Summer Bedding.—
Such plants as Heliotrope, Verbena, Ageratum,
Coleus, Lobelia, &c., may be increased to what
is necessary bv taking cuttings now, providing a
hot-bed is available for the purpose.
East Lothian Stocks.— Now is the time to
sow seeds of these lovely Stocks in order to have
a displav of flower in the early summer. These
are frequently sown in March, when the plants
do not flower till September. Cover the seeds
lightly, place them in a temperature of 60°, and
pot up the seedlings as soon as large enough to
handle. By this means good, strong plants should
be ready to' put out in .\pril.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
The Pruning of Peach Trees.— Much of the
work in this department will depend on the weather.
While fine, the piuning of Peach trees should be
persevered with, and while this work proceeds
the whole of the branches should be detached
from the wall and the old shreds burned, as they
may contain the eggs of some troublesome insect.
As the shoots are being replaced on the wall,
a space of several inches should be allowed between
them in order to admit of the laying in of next
season's growth.
Raspberry Shoots may be thinned and tied
to the wires at any time, providing the ground is
not too wet. This is a surface-rooting plant,
and requires a rich, open soil to grow it to per-
fection. If the soil is of an open nature, a top-
dressing of manure may be applied as soon as
tying is finished. If the ground is heavy, the
top-dressing may be deferred till March, but the
surface may be lightly broken up and exposed
to the weathei .
The Kitchen Garden.
Lettuce in cold flits should be freely ventilated
when external conditions will permit. Stir the
soil among the plants and remove all decaying
foliage. Dampness is the worst enemy to all
salad plants in winter. A sowing of Lettuce
seed may be made in boxes, and the young plants
pricked into a cold pit as soon as large enough to
handle.
Early Broccoli in the open garden should be
carefullv protected from frost. As soon as the
heads appear, the plants may be lifted with a good
quantity of soil and placed in any cool structure
with plenty of light.
French Beans. — A sowing of these may be made
now in 7-inch pots and placed in a temperature
of 60°. Pods should be ready to gather within
seven weeks from the time of sowing.
Mustard and Cress should be sown weekly
and placed in any forcing house or pit with a
temperature of 50**.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Wood-Ashes. — Collect and bum all prunings
and other garden rubbish and store in a dry shed ;
in fact, there should be little or nothing to 1 cart
away from any garden. Hedge-trimmings collected
and burnt make an excellent top-dressing ; indeed,
one should always be on the look-out for all burnt
refuse, as this is invaluable in preparing ground
for Onions and Carrots.
Pea-Sticks. — In wet and frosty weather Pea-
sticks should be gone over, sharpened and graded
in different sizes. By no means destroy small
branches of these, as they are very useful for
supporting the smaller-growing herbaceous plants,
besides being less unsightly than the ordinary
garden stakes.
Early Carrots and Turnips.— Where early
Carrots and Turnips are in demand, now is the
time to make up hot-beds. For this purpose the
best material is leaves and stable litter, about
two loads of the former to one of the latter. When
the bed has had time to settle, a small sowing
may be made of Carrots, Turnips and Radishes.
These are greatly appreciated even in a very
young state.
Parsley. — As Parsley takes some little time
to germinate, a sowing may be made now, so as
to be ready for planting out about the end of
March.
Early Potatoes. — A few early Potatoes may
now be planted in slightly heated pits. I find
Sutton's May Queen an excellent variety for
this early work. Great care will be necessary
to protect the young growths from late frosts,
but at the same time avoid coddling.
Globe Artichokes.— These require to be care-
fully protected during this month, particularly
against damp. I find the best material for this
is engine ashes, not too new. Mound them up
well round the crowns, and the possibilities are
no other protection will be required.
The Flower Garden.
Alterations. — The weather during the late
autumn and early winter was the mildest experi-
enced for very many years, and, in consequence,
those who had alterations to make on lawns or grass
paths had an exceptional opportunity of forwarding
that work. Should any, through stress of other
duties, still have some turfing to do, no time
should be lost in completing it. The present
is a good time to attend to defective drains and
all work that requires serious disturbance of the
paths and lawn.
Rhododendrons that do not seem to be par-
ticularly happy in thfir surroundings will, in many
instances, be greatly benefited by a good mulching
of farmyard manure. Many recommend spent
Hops and leaf-mould, which are doubtless good
in their wav ; still, I have not seen anything
to equal the manure. When the variety Pink
Pearl was introduced, I planted a number in a
cold district in the Xorth. For a time they
seemed only to exist, and, alarmed at the price
paid and the consequences of failure, I sought
the advice of an experienced grower. His
advice was, "Try farmyard manure," which
I did, and the result was beyond my utmost
expectations.
Helleborus. — Where Christmas Roses are grown
in quantity, a number of clumps should be pro-
tected by hand-lights, which will not only improve
the flowers, but will draw out the stalks and make
them more useful for decorative purposes. .-V few
roots may be lifted, placed in cutting-boxes,
and brought on in the propagating-pit.
Carnations. — During severe weather border
Carnations should be protected against rabbits
and voles, which are very destructive to Carna-
tions. Even in walled gardens it is surprising
how the pests find their way in. In most cases care-
lessness in leaving doors and gates open is
responsible for their presence. To protect Carnations
against such foes, a remedy I have found most
effectual is to saturate string with Renardine
and stretch it along the outside of the border
about six inches from the groimd. Support th •
string with small stakes, and paint it over from
time to time with this mixture.
Hardy Fruit.
Gooseberry and Currant Cuttings. — Where
it is intended to increase the stock of Goosebeines
and Currants, suitable cuttings should be selected
from the primings. These should be straight
and of a fair thickness. When the weather is
such as to prevent work being done out of doors,
these cuttings may be made, correctly named,
tied into small bundles, and heeled in mitil they
may be planted.
Protecting Fruit Trees. — Plantations of Apples
and Pears (indeed, of all hardy fruit trees) should
be guarded against rabbits and hares, especially
in frosty weather. Quite recently I saw great
destruction done during a storm, wall trees being
barked up to 2 feet from the ground. The Renar-
dine recommended for border Carnations will
keep them at bay. In the case of fruit trees,
string will not lie necessary. I simply smear
the foot of the stem with the mixture.
Fruits Under Glass.
Strawberries. — Eany forced Strawberries will
now be m flower. Go over them carefully with a
rabbit's tail to ensure a good set. The atmosphere-
may be kept somewhat dry, but a'l possible
means should be taken to keep down red spider,
which soon makes its appearance on early forced
plants.
Vineries. — Vines that were started about
the New Year will be beginning to move, and the
greatest precautions will have to be taken in
admitting air at this stage. The sim may be
shining brightly during the middle of the day,
and yet the air outside be extremely cold. An
increase of 5° in the temperature may be allowed.
In starting Muscats I believe it is an excellent
plan to top-dress the inside border with a little
hot-bed material ; this encourages the roots to
start and has a tendency to keep them near the
surface.
Melons. — Where Melons are required in May, a
small batch should be sown now. Unless in very
favoured districts, the early lot of Melons will
cause a good deal of worry before they reach the
ripening stage, chiefly through the lack of sim-
shine. They succeed best in a good, heavy loam
mi.xed with a little lime rubble. Where one
has any doubt of the suitability of the soil for
this or other crops, he should have it analysed,
which will prevent many failures.
Cucumbers. — If a sowing of Cucumbers has
not been made, no time should be lost in making
a start, as a few early Cucumbers arc almost
indispensable for the beginning of the ialmon
season. John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the .Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopelouii Gantcni,, iouih Qiicemictty, N.B.
January 17, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
39
RENOVATING OLD GRAPE
VINES.
A GOOD many gardeners seem to think
/\ that when once Vines begin to show
/ % a falling off in the size of bunch or
/ % berry, the only thing to do is to root
A M. them out, make a new border, and
replant with young rods. This I
consider an entirely wrong course to pursue,
unless, indeed, the Vines are very far gone. From
a fairly long experience I have learned that even
quite aged Vines can be brought back to a state
ilar paving. The ruling
is done mth the point of a trowel and straight-edge.
Brick paths are less expensive than paving, and if the
joints are of earth, and fine grass allowed to grow, are
really picturesque, especiallv when in conjunction with
brick buildings. Grey granite chippings make an excellent
path providing a good foundation is made before titey
are put down. They can be kept rolled or raked, according
to taste, and the cool grey is a desirable colour in the garden.
PLANTS FOR CLAY SOILS (£. P.).— Tlie most elfectual,
and possibly also tlie cheapest way of improiing such
soils is winter trcncliing — throwing the soil high into
rou"h ridges — and incorporating lime in considerable
quantities at a depth of 18 inches as the work proceeds.
The ridging exposes a greater superficial area to the action
of fresh air and tends to drain the soil, while the lime,
by coagulatmg the particles of the soil, precipitates the
water to a lower level, thereby warming, aerating and
draining it as bv a single action. Unless you are prepared
to improve the "soil in some such way as this, we are afraid
vou will have to be content with a modified success.
Vou would also find spring planting of assistance in the
ease of the doubtful ones. The best herbaceous perennials for
lieavy soils are Pajouies, Flag Irises, Michaelmas Daisies,
ICniphofias, Trollius, Spiraia, Helcniums, Helianthns
(Sunflower). Astilbe Davidu, Anchusa, Phlox (herbaceous
kinds) tall-growing .\chilleas. Campanulas, such as
van Houtte, all the persicifolia varieties, latifolia, lacti-
liora and carpatica in variety ; Aster Amellus, Del-
pliimums Lupinus ])olvi)hvllus, L. albus, Galegas, Japanese
\iicmoucs in vaiU-tv, Oriental Poppies, Hemerocallis or
biv I.ilv Uouhic Wliiti- Itockil (Irlesperis matronalis
Hoi-e ple'n'o) Hollyhocks, Ciniicifiiga, Seduni spectabile
(in opposition to the general belief), Potentillas, Lychnis
chaleedonica, Solomon's Seal, Megasea cordifolia pur-
purea, Lenten Roses, Pinks and .\ubrietias. Sucli Lilies
as Liiium umboUatum, pyrenaicum, croceum, Martagon
and chalcedonicum are usually a success. Pentstciuons
would do if planted annually in spring, and, while alfording
"oo(l colour, assist bv their conipar.ative dwartness.
packed iM damp grass or
moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
TREES AND SHRUBS.
-The best selling
and
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Pdblisher.
FLOWER GARDEN.
SWEET WILLIAM RUST (,S. IF. H.).-Puccinia dianthi
thL^wtt WiUiam rust, is attacking your plants \ou
ire u,ite ri.'lit in taking and burning the diseased ones
and « 'rai 3 be well to'spray the others with a rose red
Solution of potassium permanganate as a means of check-
iu" the spread of the disease.
VIOLETS FOR MARKET (.E. G. IF)
Violets are de Parme, La France, Prmcess of Wale:
weUsiaua the first named having double flowers. La
Fran™ and Pruieess of Wales are large-flowered long-
stemmed varieties, wellsiana bemg smaller, shorter-
steSmed and more free. The correct method ot increase
L bv unflowered cuttings, making a beginning in early
autumn "?th the runners, usually plentitu at framing-
thiie Bv insertmg these in sandy soil m shallow boxes,
excellent plants for putting out in April would result
Anv runner growths produced during the winter would
al?o be serviceable as cuttings. Divided plants from
ttock plants that have flowered for months are valueless
bv commrison, though they are useful occasionally for
prodSg cuttings when they have fully recovered
i»lIIIUM AURATUM (//.).— Your success with this
Smlwha" (astrdfous plant' is -ost eneouragmg and
instances of it becoming permanently established arc
l„„n means t common. In these circumstances it is
SLirableTo y ?he best possible for it and as^you have
fo move it we suggest the work be performed now. You
Lad better replaSt it outside, giving it conditions as
nearly Wentical as possible to those in which it has been
?,^^Lt a success! The bulbs will now have many basal
o? Safn roots i.«. those below the bulb, and these, being
f ^t.^ ininortance should be preserved intact, and in
the replaXg spreid out thmly-not doubled up in a
massbSw tl'e fulbs. The stem root^ those on the oW
fw^rinp stem having completed their life s work anu
flowermg stem, "''=,'' ^f annual duration only,
Sle removed eloJe to the bulbs, in which position a
FST^he-ixn'e!;? "^wfsr i\°^'ght"r: rs
extent— in the flrst year, though tl ■
be mteUigently done, shmilil 11
Their best
for making into
TO GET RID OF ELDER TREES (Jimiiw).— Give tlie
roots of the trees a good soaking with weed-killer of
double the usual strength. This will kill them.
EUGENIA BERRIES (.S. S.).— The fruits of Eugenia
U"ui are used for culinarv purposes in their native country.
Tl'ie plant is referred to as follows in the " Treasury 01
Botany " • " Its fruit is highly esteemed in Chile. Those
.Trown in this country are glossy black whenripe, and
have an agreeable flavour and perfume.
use in thia country would probably be for
jelly.
EVERGRBEN SHRUBS FOR HEDGE (New Reuder).
The common Holly is the best evergreen you can procure
for the position mentioned. Another suitable shrub
is Berberis stenophylla. This is a free-flowering ever-
green but it is inclined to grow rather wildly and requires
more 'attention to keep it in good condition than the
Holly. If you select Holly, you had better not plant
the hedge before April.
TO PRUNE WEIGELAS {Burton). — The young
\Vei"elas ought to have been pruned rather severely
during the £-st two years of their life. Much pruning
would have prevented them from becoming straggly.
\s it is you had better wait until after they have flowered
in May,' and then cut them fairly hard back. If you do
not mind losing the flowers, the pruning may be done
in February or March. This would give a longer growing
season.
WISTARIA CHINENSIS AND ITS SYNONYMS
(C S S J ) —The plant to which you direct attention is
named correctly. Wistaria chinensis, hut, as is the case
with ni'any other plants, diSerent botamsti
their bases those branches which cannot conveniently
be laid in. Were you to adopt a general pruning now, the
plant may be deterred from flowering till well into the
summer of next year, even supposing the pruning did not
miUtate against It passing the winter in safety. If you
could send us a flowering spray or two, we might be able
to name it for you and, with a fuller knowledge of the
plant, assist you "in more definite form.
FLOWERING AND FOLIAGE SHRUBS (T. H. H.). -
The following are twelve of the most useful flowering
shrubs : Ribessauguineumatrorubens, Forsythia suspensa.
Spiraea 'arguta, Berberis stenophylla, Syringa persica.
Diervilla .\bel CarriSre, Philadelphus Lemoinei crectus,
P. coronarius, Cydonia Maulei superba. Viburnum tomen-
tosum plieatum, Crtisus praecox and Escallonia langleyensis. .
Good coloured foliage shrubs are found in Cornus alba
Spiethii, C. a. variegata, Sambucus racemosa plumosa
aurea, Corylus maxima atropurpurea, Japanese Jlaples
in variety," Acer Negundo variegata, A. N. californica
aurea. Euonymus japonicus, golden and silver varieties ;
Hollies Golden Queen and Silver Queen, Prunus ccrasitera
atropurpurea, and gold and silver variegated Tree Ivies.
SHRUBS FOR A NEW GARDEN (Westmorland).—
The following shrubs are likely to prove satisfactory
if planted in your uorth border : Berberis stenophylla,
evergreen, 5 fe'et to H feet, flowers yellow, April ; Ribe>
sanguineum, 4 feet to 5 feet, red, .\pril ; Berberis Aqui-
folium, 2 feet to 3 feet, evergreen, yellow, .March ;
Forsythia intermedia spectabilis, 4 feet, yellow, .\prU ; •
Cornus alba Spsethl, golden-variegated foliage, 4 feet ;
C. a. variegata, 4 feet , silver-variegated foliage ; Tree
Ivies in variety ; and Hollies in variety. For the south
border the foU'owing selection is suitable : Spirsea arguta,
4 feet to 5 feet, white, April; S. japonica Anthony
Waterer, 2 feet, red, July and .\ugust ; Diervilla .\bi:l
CarriSre, 5 feet to 6 feet, rose, May ; D. Eva Kathki ,
3 feet to 4 feet, carmine, Jime and July ; C^■tisus prsecox,
4 feet to a feet, cream, -May ; C. scoparius variety andreanns,
4 feet to 5 feet, yellow and brown. May ; Forsythia
suspensa, 4 feet to 10 feet, yellow. April ; Daphm-
Mezereum, 2 feet to 3 feet, red, February ; Berberis
barwinli, 4 feet to 8 feet, evergreen, orange, April;
Lilacs in variety ; Philadelphus Lemoinei erecfns, 3 feet,
white, June ; Viburnum lantana and V. tomentosuni
plieatum, white, 4 feet to 5 feet, June ; also any of th.'
subjects recommended for the other border. The following
Roses will be likely to thrive with you : Hybrid Per-
petuals — Ben Cant, Captain Hayward, Charles Lefebvri',
iJupuy Jamain, Frau Karl Drusehki, General Jacqueminot,
Hugh Dickson, iMrs. John Laing, Senateur Vaisse,
.Margaret Dickson and lllrich Brunuer. Hybrid Teas—
\rthur R. Goodwin, Captain Christy. Caroline Testout.
General Jlacartliur. His Majesty. J. B. Clark. John Huskhi.
Kalserln \ugusta Victoria, La France, La Tosca, Lad>
Battersea, Liberty. Mine. A. Chatenay. Mme. Jenny
Oillemot, Mme. P'ernet-Ducher. Mme. Ravary, .Marquis.'
Litta, ,>hs. P. H. Coats, Queen of Spain. Richmond and
Wliiti' Killaruey.
< have at various
ol be
cheek,
halt ^^
if the work
gri'itt as if
times placed it in other genera, and it has at one time or
another been known both as Glycine sinensis and Mllletia
chinensis, names which are still occasionally used. As
mentioned above, the correct name is Wistaria ehinensis,
and as such it is generally known.
FLOWERING EVERGREENS FOR SMALL GARDENS
(itort)— The following shrubs are likely to suit your
purpose : Laurusthius (Viburnum Tinus), white, lyinter
and early spring; Berberis Darwinil, orange, April;
B stenophylla, orange, April; Chmsya ternata, white.
May; Escallonia langleyensis, pink, June to August,
sub-evergreen; Cotoneaster microphylla, white, May ;
Rhododendrons in variety. Ericas in variety and Pcr-
nettya mueronata. If the soil does not contain much
lime, Hypericum calyciuum, yellow, summer; and
Berberis .\quifolium, yellow, JIarch.
CORONILLA (Miss E. A. M. D.).— We are not sure
to what plant you refer by Coronilla Genista. In any case
the plant should not be pruned now to any extent. Should
the wall space permit, the better way would be to train
thr i.lant out fan shape agahist the wall, and thin out at
FRUIT GARDEN.
PEARS DOYENNE DU COMICE AND CALABASH,
TO PLANT ALTERNATELY (Ju)UiW).— That will do very
well Doyenne du Comice is not the freest of setters, but it
is seif-fert"ilising, all the same. It will help it to set better
if when in bloom, you will inoculate its stigma (centre
column of flower) with the pollen of some other sorl
in bloom at the same time,
STONES SPLITTING IN PEACHES (SiUinqiouriu).—
Some \arieties of Peaches aud Xectarmes, also Apricots,
have split stones more than others. The varieties
Peach Earlv Rivers and Nectarine Victoria are very
liable to liave split stones. Splitting of stones is
always more prevalent when the roots of the trees are
grow'ing in a cold soil and when the soil is lacking in Imie.
The position should be a warm one, no check must !»■
given to growth, and during the period wiieii the stones
are " hardening " in the fruits the soil must not be alloweil
to get very dry. II it does, and then gets saturated
suddenly through heavy rains or watering by means
of a watering-can, stone-splittmg is worse than usual.
THE GREENHOUSE.
GLOXINIAS IN THE GREENHOUSE (Seol similar growth aiid habit, but the flowers are
much fuller and have more colour in them. The
buds are deep yellow and the open flowers pale
yollow, of the size of a florin. I think both these
Roses of Mr. Peraberton's raising can be strongly
recommended. We want perpetual - flowering
Roses very badly.
Pink Pearl (Hobbies, 1912). — This has Irish
Elegance for one of its parents, and it has retained
some of the beauty of its parent. It is not quite
single, but makes a very effective pillar when
fully oui.
Sheilagh Wilson, Hybrid Tea (Paul and Son,
1912). — This is a very lovely single ; a semi-climber
that flowers again in the autumn ; but so far with
mi: is neither very vigorous nor very free-flowering.
But the plants are young yet, and may improve
in both aspects.
The award was luiauimous. The accompanying
illustration \vill give some idea of the erect
character of the stems and the graceful poise of
the flowers. From the St. George's Nursery Com-
panv. Harlington. Middlesex.
NEW ORCHIDS.
Cypripedium Julian. — A flower of remarkably
good form, with a broad, overarching dorsal.
Parentage : Vandyke x -'Edippc. The general
colour is greenish brown, the dorsal being white
suffused with rosy pink. Shown by Lieutenant-
Colonel Sir George Holford, K,C.V.O. First-class
certificate.
Awards ot merit were given to the following ;
Odontoglnssum illustrissimum The Dell Variety,
sent by Baron Bruno Schroder ; Odontioda Royal
I Gem Westonbirt Varietv, frnni Lientenant-Colr-ine]
THE PERENNIAL STOCKS.
T
NEW CYCLAMEN MRS. L. M. GREAVES. THIS OBTAINED AN AWARD OF MERIT LAST WEEK
Thelma (W. Spooncr, tgra). — A very effective
and bright colour, with delightful single flowers.
The plant is vigorous and the flowers are large for
a single. A Rose of much promise.
Southamplon . Hekhfrt 1', Molvneux.
Sir George Holford ; Odontoglossum Canary and
Cymbidium Schlegeleri pimctatuni. from Pantia
Ralli. Esq ; and Cvmbidium (•oningsb^^■^nunl,
shown bv Mr. G Hamilton Smith
NEW AND RARE PLANTS.
Cyclamen Mrs. L. M. Greaves. — Dcpartmg
Ironi its usual custom, the floral committee
gave this distinct and good sort an award of merit
as a named \ariety, thus stamping it as one of
unusual excellence. The colour is rich and deep —
cerise, with a suffusion of salmon — and unlike
anything before known in the Cyclamen. The
foliage is slightly marbled. All the plants shown
were true to their kind, thus demonstrating that
the variety tomes prartirall\- true fi-oni seeds.
NEW FRUIT.
Citrus japonica. — Tlie value ol this species
is ornamental rather than useful. The fruits,
which are about the size 01 Waluuls, are lemon
colour and almost spherical. Se\'eral plants
about two feet high, tarrying hea\'y crops, were
shown, and were evidence uf I heii usefulness
for decorative purposes When quite ripe the
fruits are pleasant to the palate. Exhibited
by Messrs. James Veitch and .Sons, Limited.
.\ward of merit.
The foregoing plants were granted .iwards [ly
the Roval Horticultural Society on Jauuarv i j.
HE Matthiolas are interesting plants which
belong to the Mediterranean regions ;
there are three or four dozen different
kinds, half of them being annual or
biennial. Of the perennial ones, the
following are growm in alpine gardens :
Matthiola fenestralis, growing wild on the sea
rocks of the island Cretica, and nowhere else.
It seems to be a dwarf form of M. incana (one
of the ancestors of the common Stock), \rith thick,
undulate and spirally rolled lea%es, deep carmine
petals and very thick siliqua. In Cretica the
people grow this plant in pots in their windows ;
hence its name fenestralis. It is half-hardy
with us (at Floraire we jiave to cover it through
the winter), and wants a dry place in the full sun.
M. sinuata, well known by even,--
body who ever saw the Mediterranean
coasts, and generally considered as
] a biennial, although it, in certain
conditions, proves to be quite peren-
nial. The plant, Mediterranean by
its origin, grows wild at the ocean
coast, and goes so far as England.
It is a sweet-scented plant, the
flowers ot it being light lilac and ex-
pending a delicious fragrance, but
' inly in the evening and in the night.
M. Aristis is a curious plant,
rather rarely found, growing wild here
.uid there in the South of France, in
Spain and Portugal, in SicUia, in
Greece and in North Africa. I found
it once in my life in the very beau-
tiful Gorges du Verdon ui the Var.
I ,. grows there in the white and barren
sandy loam at very sunny places,
and is the only plant growing in it.
Very ca;spitose, of stoloni ferous nature,
with dark green, somewhat greyish,
dentate leaves ; flowers in large spikes,
dull purple, and without any smell,
so far as I know. At Floraire we
grow it on the top of our wall, and it
nourishes there and gives good seeds.
M. varia is near to it and is a child
ol Greece, where it grows near the sea-
roasts. It is a stoloniferous kind, too
and has l.irgc light, purple flowers.
M. valesiaca and M. pedemont-
ana arc near to it, but very different
in their requirements ; they are really
wall plants, and the most stoloniferous of all.
The first is the rare plant of the Simplon Road in
Valais ; it is found still in the very near valley of
Binn, and. further to the East, near the Lago
d'Garda, where I was very surprised last July to
find my country plant, which I thought was a true
Swiss child, growing between the rocks of Tremonie
and near Riva. Tlie pl.ant is a delightful one, very
creeping, its long and slender rootstock bearing its
new rosettes everywhere. Sometimes M. valesiaca
covers an area of several metres in a rockery. It is a
plant for the morame, in the true sense of the word,
or for the wall garden. The foliage of M. %alesiaca
is silvery grey, and the flowers of a reddish purple,
-M. pedemoutana differs from it by its slenderer-
growth, its leaves narrower and thinner, and its
flowers greenish broHii, of a very rare and curious
colour. It needs the s.inie ■ iilture as M. v.alcsiaca.
Floraire, Gtiievu. H. Cokkkvos'.
January 24, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
49
GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.
HOW TO GROW EARLY TOMATOES.
WHERE there are suitable struc-
tures and plenty of artificial
heat, very little difficulty need
be experienced in the growing
of very fine crops of Tomatoes.
This condition (Obtains, of course,
wliere experienced cultivators are concerned.
Ill nrdinarv (ircumstances the f^eneral cultivator
RAISING TOMATOES FROM SEEDS, AND
SHOWING HOW TO POT THEM OFF.
can secure a medium crop. We, however, wish
the begiuuer to succeed in growing a big crop.
Usually, early in the season there is considerable
loss through failing to get the first-formed trusses of
fruits to set. It is quite time now to make a begin-
ning by sowing seeds and preparing generally for
the due potting or boxing of the resultant plants.
The Best Soil. — Some inexperienced culti-
vators believe that the wisest course to follow is
to grow the plants in a poor soil. Now, if we
were intending to grow them in a deep border
in the open air, or even under glass, we would
prefer a poor rooting medium to a rich one ;
but as the bulk of soil is comparatively small,
confined as it will be in flower-pots or narrow,
shallow boxes, it ought to be of very good quality.
To tliis end prepare some very fibrous loam by
pulling it in pieces, and some half-decayed leaf-
soil passed through an inch mesh sieve. Stack
this compost in a cool shed, or, if in the open,
cover the heap to keep off rain until required for use.
The compost for the seeds should be of a similar
quality, but much finer. Use pots or pans in which
to sow the seeds. Always remember that Tomatoes
thri\'e best in a very warm, sunnv position. If suili
be availaljle now, raise the seedlings in it.
How to Raise the Seedlings. — Fill pots or pans
as shown in Fig. .\ at No. i, which denotes drainage
and coarse material such as leaves and rough,
turfy compost ; No. 2, a layer of finer compost ;
and No. 3, the seeds lightly covered. As stated
above, place the seed-pots on a stage in a warm
position and keep the soil in a moist state, btit
never very wet, else the seeds will decay and
not germinate. Ail necessary moisture should
be afforded by holding the pot in a vessel of tepid
water imtil the surface of the soil becomes dark ;
then gently lift the pot. Probably only one water-
ing will be needed, as the seeds germinate in a
few days where there is enough heat and moisture.
A sheet of glass may be placed on the pot to
conserve moisture imtil the seedlings break
through ; then it must be removed, but it is not
advisable to put brow^n paper or moss on the glass.
The young plants must be brought on as steadily
as possible. When the seedlings are at the stage
shown at No. 4, lift and transplant them 3 inches
apart each way in pans or boxes. At the stage
slrown at No. 5, transfer them to small pots, No. 6.
The Training of the Young Plants. — From
this stage onwards side shoots will grow freely,
but they must not be left on to attain to a length
beyond an inch or so. On the yomig plant, No. 7,
these side shoots are shown at Nos. 8, S. From
the 5-inch pots the plants must be shifted to those in
which they are to fruit, or to the boxes or restricted
beds, as it is good policy to restrict the roots to a
given space, especially in the case of the earliest crop.
Positions in which to Fruit the Plants. —
There is much available space in many green-
houses and small structures that might be used
if some staging of a temporary character were
erected. No. i in Fig. B shows how the plants
may be grown in a deep, heated pit. Other
kinds of plants may be grown in the same struc-
ture if the Tomatoes are trained 3 feet apart.
In many lean-to houses there is some wall space
on the back wall above the stage, and quite a
number of plants may be grown and trained there,
as shown at Nos. 2 and 3. Of coturse, there is
always that good position at the front of the house
where there is generally room for a few plants
on the stage, No. 4. Grow the plants in a rich,
fibrous loam, made moderately firm. A sandy
loam needs no sand, but a retentive one
requires sand and leaf-sod. When two or three
trusses of fruit have set and are swelling freely, top-
dress the soil, as shown at No. 5, and feed the plants
with liquid manures and approved chemicals.
CINDERS AND CEMENT FOR
GARDEN PATHS.
It is always a pleasure to walk on a firm, dry path.
One often sees new paths made by the laying
down of a thin- coating of rather rough gravel.
A path of this kind is never satisfactory. If the
rough gravel is laid thick enough and then properly
surfaced with finer gravel, the path will be improved
as time passes ; but so many lovers of gardens arc-
not able to procure gtjod gravel without going to con
siderable expense. I am now referring to gardens in
town and suburban districts. In many of them ciu-
ders are plentiful, and both the cinders and cemenl
can be obtained without inuch trouble or expense.
Mark out the space for the path and remove the
soil to a depth of 5 inches ; then put in the roughesi
cinders to a depth of 3 inches, and water theni
so that they can be easily firmed and provide a
good base for the cinders and cement. Place
some fine sifted cinders in a bucket, add pure
cement to the extent of one-third the bulk (do not
use any sand), and then pour in water, mixing the
cement and cinders until the mixture is of the con-
sistency of mortar. With the aid of a bricklayer's
trowel spread out the mixture to a depth of 2 inches,
leaving an even surface. On the latter sprinkle
at once a few dry cinders, and gently press them
in with the back of a garden spade. The surface
will not then be slippery ; the genersd appearance
will be pleasing and the path lasting. No weeding
of paths will be necessary. Do not use the cement
in frostv weather. Shamrock.
SHOWING POSITIONS IN WHICH THE
PLANTS MAY BE GROWN.
I
50
THE GARDEN.
[January 24, 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK,
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
Early Permanent Vines will uuw in. m tiowtir,
aad consequently less atmospheric moisture
idll be necessarj'. Shake the trellis several times
diirmg the early part of the day in order to distri-
bute the pollen, and do not allow the foliage
CO come in contact with the glass, but direct the
shoots gradually towards the trellis a little at a
time. At this stage a night temperature of 70°
may be allowed while the weather is mild ; but
if cold weather sets in, it is better to drop the
temperature to 65" than to employ too much
tire-heat to keep it up, and durmg bright days
Ine temperature may be allowed to rise to 90° b\'
sunheat. Ventilation must be given with great
care and only at the top of the house, and this
should never be applied with a view to lowering
the temperature.
Early Peaches and Nectarines in Pots. —
The mild weather has been all m favour of forcing,
and the early trees will now have set their fruits.
Do not attempt to thin the fruits much at present,
but leave all on the upper side of the branches
for another ten days. In disbudding, which
should be done a little at a time, leav^e a well-
placed shoot as near the base of the branch as
possible, with one or two on the sides of the
branches, which may afterwards be shortened
back to two or three leaves, in order t(.i form yoimg
spurs for another season's crop. Great care is
necessary in watering these trees that the soil
does not become sour, or many of the fruits will
drop. .^ night temperature of 55° will be quite
high enough for the present. Syringe the trees
lightly on bright days, and keep a careful watch
for green or black fly, which may be kept in check
by the use of a little Quassia Extract while syring-
ing the trees in the afternoon.
The Orchard-House. — The trees in this house
must be started mto growth with care. They
should never be excited by much fire-heat tmtil
the flowering period is over, or weak flowers
and an inferior set of fruit will be the result.
If the trees are potted m suitable soil, no manure-
water will be necessary ujitil the fruits are set.
Syringe the walls and floor of the house to promote
a moist atmosphere. A temperature of 50° at
night in mild weather is quite high enough.
Plants Under Glass.
Smilax. — In order to produce Smilax in quantity
for decoration, seeds should be sown now in pans
of fine sifted soil, covered lightly and placed on a
hot- bed. When large enough to handle, the seedlings
shotUd be potted into 2j-mch pots and afterwards
into 3-inch pots, growing tbem in a temperature of
70°. ."Vt Frogmore these plants are trained to
green string on the back wall of a vinery or
Peach-house, and planted in a compost of loam
and leaf-soil with sufficient sand to keep the soil
m a porous condition.
Asparagus Sprengeri may also be sown now and
treated in the same way until the plants are finally
placed in large baskets and hmig in a warm Palm-
house or conservatory. When well established
in the baskets, the roots may be frequently soaked
with weak liquid manure. The greatest danger
to these plants is want of water at the roots.
The Flower Garden.
Cold Pits containing autumn-struck plants of
Calceolarias, Pentstemons, *ic., should be freely
ventilated to keep the plants from becoming
drawn. Pinch the tops out of Pentstemon plants
to encourage side shoots, and when these have
become prominent the plants may be potted into
4-inch pots and growii near the glass in the same
pit. Calceolarias may be treated m a similar
way ; but if standard plants of C. amplexicaulis
are required, they must be grown on single stems
until they reach the necessary height, when the
tups must be removed.
Marguerites and Heliotrope struck ui Sep-
tember should be potted without delay and placed
in gentle heat. It the plants have become drawn,
they should be cut back and allowed to remaui
until side shoots appear before they are potted.
Lobelia cardinalis Victoria. — This beautiful
perennial, witli its dark metallic l'ili,Ti;c and bright
scarlet flowers, may easily be increased by division
of the roots now. These may be potted into
3-inch pots and grown on a bed of ashes in a cold
pit, or seeds may be sown now and placed over
a gentle bottom-heat. If potted up as soon as
ready, they will make nice plants for bedding
out in May, and should flower in the month ul
.\ugust.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Orchard Fruit Trees. — All new plantations
should be finished as soon as possible. Each
standard tree will require a strong stake as soon
as planted, and if sharp frost or drying wind
should prevail, a mulching of some kmd shotUd
be placed over the roots. In exposed positions
the stems may be protected by hay-bands to
prevent evaporation.
The Kitchen Garden.
Large Onions. — If large Onions are required,
the .seeds should be sown about the end of
January. Sow in boxes of tine soil and place
them in a slightly heated pit. The soil may
consist of good sandy loam and leaf-soil, and
should be pressed tightly into the boxes. Sow
the seeds thinly, and as soon as the plants appear
they should be given sufficient air to keep them
stocky.
Leeks may also be sown now and placed in
the same pit for the time being.
Seakale. — Roots intended for forcing should
be lifted at once and placed behuid a north wall.
These roots should be put in an upright position
and covered with soil imtil required for forcing.
As this work proceeds, sufficient clean thongs
should be selected for the propagation of next
season's plants. These cuttmgs may be placed
in a horizontal position, quite close together,
and covered with 4 inches of sandy soil. By .'\pril
they will be ready for plantuig out.
Peas in Pots. — -An occasional dish of Peas
may be obtained by sowing in pots at frequent
intervals from now until the end of February.
Eight-inch pots are large enough, and the soil
may consist of three parts rich loam and one part
decayed manure. A well-ventilated house or
pit is necessary.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Horse-Radish. — .\s a rule. Horse-radish is
generally grown in the most out-of-the-way part
of the garden, and perhaps for many reasons
this is as it should be, as it is neither fastidious
as to sou nor situation. At the same time, it will
pay to give it a little more attention than it
usually receives. Now is a good time to make
a new plantation, and in doing so have the groimd
trenched two spits deep, adding some well-rotted
manure. In planting, see that the cro%vns are
placed at least 4 inches or 5 inches deep. If time
permits, it is well to replant each year.
Broad Beans. — If a sowing of Broad Beans
was not made in the late autumn, no time should
be lost in putting in a few rows for an early supply.
The seeds should be sown in a fairly moist part of
the garden, as the plants will not stand drought.
To guard against mice, rub the seeds over with red
lead, or stand them for a few hours in paraffin
before sowing.
Peas. — It is still too early to sow Peas out
of doors, at least in the colder climate of the
North, but a sowing might well be made now
either in pots, cutting-bo.xes or strips o£ turf and
placed in a cold frame. Some early dwarf variety,
such as English Wonder, is best suited for this
sowing.
Dwarf Beans. — A dish of Dwarf Beans is
usually very much prized in the early spring.
A sowing made now will, for ordinary purposes,
be early enough. A number of pots may be so\vn
and placed in a brisk heat ; the seeds would, of
course, do equally well in long, narrow boxes.
Last season I grew this batch in ordinary Tomato
bo.xes, with very good results. Water should be
given very sparingly at first, otherwise the young
growths tmTi yellow, which will spell failure.
Autumn-Planted Cabbage.— On an early border
autumn-planted Cabbage will be all the better
for a slight dressing of sulphate of ammonia
between the drills if the weather is favourable.
An open handful to ever>' 3 yards is sufficient.
.\fterwards rim the Dutch hoe between the rows.
Mushrooms. — These may be had almost all
the year round, provided one possesses the neces-
sary accommodation. Those, of course, who
only possess a single house ha\-e to be content
with a crop occasionally. Still, it is surprising
what results one can get by making up a bed in
odd corners, provided the 'place selected can be
kept at an even temperature without the aid of
tire-heat. Collect sufficient horse-manure as will
make up a bed (not an easy matter in these days
of motors), place in a dry, open shed, and turn
p\ery day for about a fortnight. When sufficienth-
dry, throw into a heap. For a number of years I
have mixed a fair quantity of dr\- leaves with the
manure before making up 'the bed, which, I think,
tends to preserve the heat. In making up the
bed, distribute the manure evenly over the surface
and tread it firmly. The temperature will rise
very rapidly, and the bed mav be spawned when it
has dropped below 90°.
The Flower Garden.
Sweet Peas. — Sow the main batch of Sweet
Peas now either in boxes or pots and place them
in a cold frame. This method of raising Sweet
Peas is becoming more popular each year, and to
my mind rightly so. It is a fact that' with proper
management they can be had in bloom as long
from a sowing made now as thev can from one
made out of doors in March. It' is a good plan
to chip the seeds of very scarce varieties to ensure
germination. Previous to placing them in the
frame, give the surface a good dressing of soot,
as slugs play great havoc just as the seedlings are
pushing through the soil.
Delphinium Belladonna, if sown in mild heat
now, will bloom in the late summer and early
autumn. It is a lovely shade of blue, and is sure
to give the greatest satisfaction to all who grow
it. Last season I planted it with Sutton's Blue
Nemesia, and it was greatly admired.
Spiraea arixfolia. — One could scarcely imagine
anything more handsome than a few plants of
SplraBa ariaefolia dotted through the border. All
these ought to be planted now, for if done later
they do not start away so readily.
Plants Under Glass.
Crotons. — Cuttings mav now be put in the
propagating-case. Ring those plants that have
grown rather tall.
Dracaenas. — Those who wish to increase the
stock of Dracaenas may do so now by cutting up
the stem into pieces about an inch long. Place
them in shallow pans, and keep them where they
will have the benefit of a brisk bottom-heat.
Gloxinias. — If a sowing of Gloxinias is made
now, the yotmg plants will bloom in the late
summer, which will add a nice bit of colour, either
for furnishing stands indoors or placing among the
Adiantums in the feniery.
Carnations. — Soil shotild now be prepared for
potting on the young Malmaisons layered in the
autumn. It is always wise to have the soil pre-
pared some little time beforehand, and in doing
so add a b-inch potful of hot lime to each barrow-
I'lad of soil, and turn frequently.
Cypripediums. — The present will be a suitable
time to look over the Cypripediums, and .any that
show signs of going back may be shaken out and
repotted in a mixture of good fibrous loam, peat
and sphagnum moss. Others may only require
top-dressing. In either case water very' carefully
at this stage.
Fruits Under Glass.
Vines. — .\ttend carefully to disbudding Vines
that were started in late December. This work
should be done very gradually and by an ex-
perienced person. In a number of cases two shoots
shoiUd be left to the spur until one is able to see
which is showing the better bunch. On fine days,
and when much heat is used, keep a good deal
of moisture about, but discontinue syruiging
the Vines.
John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopctoun Gardens, South Quecnsferry, WU,
January 24, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
51
SEASONABLE NOTES ON
SWEET PEAS.
FROM the present time and onwards
the Sweet Pea enthusiast knows
no idle moment. Each week, as it
comes round, brings its o^vn particular
needs, and if fine exhibition blooms
be the desired goal, then the grower
must give careful attention to every detail in
the cultivation of his plants.
Ordering Seed. — Long before these notes appear
the real enthusiastic Sweet Pea grower will have
procured his seed, and if he be a devotee to
autumn sowing, his seedlings will be requiring
attention. But procrastination always holds a
firm grip on some people, and to them delay in
purchasing seeds is deadly dangerous. For several
years the seasons have been bad and the crops
small ; and although one may hope that the past
season may be the last of these lean years, yet
both buyer and seedsman must suffer, for the
supply cannot equal the demand, and the buyer
receives less seed for his money. However, so
far as reports can be relied upon, the shortage of
seed this year is slightly compensated by the
e.xcellent germinating quality of the seeds. Intend-
ing growers, therefore, should immediately peruse
the advertisement columns of The Garden, in
which several reliable seedsmen are advertising,
and, a choice having been made, an order should
be despatched without further delay. In previous
notes contained in the issues of The Garden
for December 20, rgis, and January 3, 1914,
lists of varieties suited for exhibition and garden
purposes respectively were given, and a reference
to these will make a selection more easy. I
would recommend that several extra varieties
be named as substitutes, for in all probability
many varieties will have been sold out because
of the general shortage of seed, and especially
that of the newer varieties.
Preparation of tlie Ground. — The ground
should have been prepared in the autunm, but
if circumstances have prevented this work being
done, then as soon as possible it should be deeply
and well cultivated, incorporating into it good
decomposed manure. Allow the soil to settle
down before planting, for loose soil is detrimental
to successful growing of Sweet Peas.
Seed-Sowing. — ^This may be done any time from
the present, just when the opportunity suits the
particular grower. Plant either in pots or boxes
in rows ; in many instances, where the grower
cannot give daily attention, the Sweet Peas thrive
best in boxes, which have less chance of getting
dry and thus checking regular growth. Sheets
of paper or glass placed over the boxes or pots
assist germ.ination, and directly the seedlings
appear these should be taken off and the plants
well exposed to the light, encouraging throughout
a slow, sturdy growth. For the seedlings from
an autumn sowing a potting on will be beneficial,
and they should be pinched (if not already
done) to cause new growths from the base.
" Potting on " may seem rather a tall order,
but the increased vigour resultant from so doing
fully compensates for the labour it necessitates.
After repotting, if the plants are in frames, it
is advisable to keep them fairly close for a few
days, and, of course, protect them by coverings
■on frosty nights.
Labels. — Where these are used (and most
growers are kind to their novice friends by labelling
their Sweet Peas) it will be well to utilise any odd
moments in preparing them, for little time can be
spared later on in the spring for this important
work. Referring to names and their multiplicity,
one of the pleasing features in many catalogues
received is the attempt to obviate this difficulty
by carefully arranged lists of best varieties. The
catalogue of Hallams, Moseley, Birmingham,
is excellent in this respect, and forms a most useful
guide, especially for amateurs, who are generally
the chief sufferers, often buying the same variety
under various names. That of Robert Sydenham,
Limited, Tenby Street, Birmingham, is also good,
having a well-arranged alphabetical list of the
best sorts, from which a selection can easily be
made ; while their presentation coloured plate of
Sweet Peas Barbara, Princess Mary, Zarina
Spencer and Edith Taylor well illustrates these
good varieties. Dobbie and Co., Edinburgh,
the well-known Sweet Pea firm, give excellent
and full cultural notes in their catalogue, a delight-
ful production replete with useful information
on all matters connected with the garden, and well
on a par with other specialities sent out by this
noted • firm. Space prevents more than a mere
mentioning of the catalogues of Unwin, Dipnall,
Bide, and Deal, each full of interest, and I close
these notes with congratulations to those seedsmen
who have endeavoured to meet and overcome
the difficulties that have hindered the progress
of the Sweet Pea, and wish them success in the
coming season. S. M. Crow.
A FINE APPLE ORCHARD.
Now that more interest is being taken
in Apple-growing in this country, it
is just as well to look about and note
the most approved methods of cultiva-
tion before embarking on the subject,
either for profit or home consumption ;
and as the old-fashioned orchard on grass has still
many adherents, I will briefly describe the result
of high-class cultivation as practised at Aldenham
House, Elstree. I perhaps know more about the
gardens at Aldenham than the majority of visitors,
as it has been my pleasure during the last twenty-
five years to pay at least an annual visit of some
days and, naturally, I note what my good friend,
Mr. Beckett, does in the way of extending these
princely gardens in obedience to the wish of his
enthusiastic employer, the Hon. Vicary Gibbs.
As the season for planting Apple trees is still
with us, I thought these notes would help intending
planters. The orchard in question occupies some
ten acres and is all on grass ; originally it was
but half the size. The trees are wholly of the
standard or half-standard type. Half the trees
were planted thirty-seven years ago, but were
not a success, and as the subsoil naturally at
Aldenham is clay, it was suspected that the rooting
conditions were unfavourable. It was decided
to replant the trees and add more land to the orchard.
Thus, in the year 1886 the work of renovation
was begun, this being completed the following year.
The land was thoroughly drained and entirely
trenched from 3 feet to 4 feet deep, adding any
lightening material avaOable, such as burnt earth,
to render the soil porous and naturally wanner.
The trees were replanted, allowing abundant
space between them and as much as 50 feet
between the rows. The trees were annually and
carefully pruned with a view to obtaining as large
an area as possible, at the same time keeping the
branches thin and allowing plenty of light in the
centre of the trees. The trees were carefully
attended to in regard to insect pests, lichen and so
forth. Singular to say, the latter is not very
troublesome, owing, no doubt, to the favourable
rooting conditions and perfect drainage. In many
orchards the excessive crops of moss and lichen
present are traceable to the unsuitable subsoil,
which is, in some cases, so impervious that water
from excessive rains cannot quickly get away,
thus causing stagnation of the roots.
Below I give the names of some of the larger
trees, with their spread of branch and approximate
crops of fruit last season. Nowhere have I seen
Wellington succeed better than here. The trees
grow freely and crop annually, giving handsome,
clean fruiti;, which keep remarkably well, thus
displaying this valuable Apple at its best. Cox's
Orange Pippin is a fine tree, in spite of the
assertion of some writers that this Apple as a
standard is not a success, although last year it
did not carry a large crop. Hambledon Deux Ans,
Small's Admirable, Lord Derby and a special form
of Blenheim Pippin are a special success. New
varieties are added as they appear.
Variety of Fruit. Circumference
of
Quanliiy of
Branches. Fruit.
Feet. Bushels.
Blenheim Pippin
102 .
.. 18
Bramley's Seedling
87 .
12
Feam's Pippin . .
86 .
16
Cox's Orange Pippin
78 .
8
Golden Noble
81 .
. 12
Gascoyne's Seedling
97 .
8
Hambledon Deux Ans . .
103 .
8
King of Tompkins' Count)
90 .
6
Lord Derby
94 .
27
Small's Admirable
87 .
20
M^re du Manage . .
66 .
. 18
Tower of Glamis . .
84 .
12
Wellington
71 .
8
Warner's King . .
81 .
16
Swanmore.
E.
Molyneux.
GARDENING
ACROSTICS.
DOUBLE ACROSTIC No. 8.
Firsts. — A celebrated Dutch florist of the
eighteenth century (his surname).
Lasts. — The flower which he improved.
1. A horticultural distinction.
2. Found in compound words, denoting sharp
or acid.
3. A tribute of Kegel to a Russian brother
botanist.
4. A good early Plum.
5. Sunflowers.
6. An Auricula man of a century ago (surname).
7. A retarding influence.
8. I look like what I am popularly called, but
not like what I am.
Solutions of the foregoing must be sent so as to
reach the Editor at 20, Tavistock Street, Covent
Garden, London, W.C, not later than the first post
on Saturday, January 31. Mark the envelope
" Acrostic " in the top left-hand comer.
SOLUTION AND NOTES OF
ACROSTIC No. 6.
CONRAD— GESNER.
* I. C ORN-FLA G
t 2. O VUL E
t 3. N EPHROLEPI S
§ 4. R AMPIO N
II 5- A PPL E
K 6. D EODA R
Conrad Gesner, bom in 1516 at Zurich, has been
called the Pliny of his time. He published a
52
THE GARDEN.
[January 24, 1914-
" Historia Animalium," and at the time of his
death he had collected 1,500 drawings for a history
of plants. He died of the plague in his forty-
ninth year. — Arber's " Herbals." pages 90 to 93.
* Cora-iiag is given in all gardening books as the
English name for the Gladiolus, t The ovule
after fertilisation develops into the seed, t Nephros,
of which Nephrolepis is compounded, is the Greek
word for kidney. The coverings of the sori are
more or less kidney-shaped. § Campanula Rapun-
culus. Rapa is a small Turnip. Prior gives the
derivation of Rampion from the French " raiponce,"
to which " m " has been added for the sake of
euphony. — Prior's " Popular Names of British
Plants." II See Richard Folkard's " Plant Lore."
No fruit, he says, is so famous in fable and history
as the Apple. In Britain it gave its name to the
"Isle of the Blest" (= Ava'on), and in Saxon
times one of the Coronation prayers was " that
this land may be filled with Apples." H Cedrus
Deodara, or the Indian Cedar, a native of the
Himalaya, is frequently mentioned in old Indian
hymns and poems. On account of its graceful
habit it is a favourite tree for ornamental planting.
We speak of it as the Deodar.
RESULT OF ACROSTIC No. 6.
In this acrostic it was possible to obtain eight
marks, one for each correct " first " and " last,"
and one for each correct light. The following
have been awarded :
Eight marks. — R. Chapman, M. Browne, " Jan,"
" Tempus Fugit," N. E. Hadden, W. J. Wigston,
" Shamrock," G. D. Kmg, " Brixtonian," " Pen-
wame," " Bow," " Rusticus," " St. Kevins,"
" Ping," " Elm," " Nautilus," W. Bond, " Johnny
Crow," L. Biggwither, " Miller," " Hero," Ernest
Ballard and " W. R. D."
Seven marks. — " Westbank," " Bees Wing,"
Wm. Slocombe, " Rustic," " White Lady,"
" M. M.," " Boarsvale," "Scotia" and A.
Henderson.
Six marks.— Miss G. H. Jeffreys and H. J.
Giblett.
TO
ANSWERS
CORRESPONDENTS.
copper sulphate in canvas, and draw it about in the water
until dissolved. Two or more applications may be
necessary during the summer.
SMALL VIOLETS (C. E. F. Jf.).— There is nothing
about the flowers sent to account for their small size.
Perhaps the plants are fed too well with nitrogenous food,
or kept a little too dry, or belong to a poor strain. But
there may be something wrong with the plants. The
material sent is too scrappy to enable us to say.
HERBACEOUS LOBELIAS (P. H. J.).— The nearest
approach to crimson in these is in the variety Queei'
Victoria, wiiich is more scarlet than crimson. Cardinalis
and Firefly also have brilliantly coloured flowers. If
the pots were of reasonable size, say, 6 inches to 9 inches
across, the plants would do quite well plunged in the bog-
bed as you suggest, though we sholdd expect to find
them quite hardy if planted out in your district. The
plun'ging in pots, however, is not essential, as the plants
move (luite safely if lifted with a small ball of earth.
Even if a few were lost, they are easily reproduced by
means of seeds, and these, if sown in January, make
flowering plants in the same year if civen liberal treat-
ment. Hardy Orchids suitable for the bog-bed should
include Cyprlpedium spectabile, C. pubescens, C. parxi-
florum, C. montanum and C. Calceolus. To these should
be added Orchis follosa, O. latifolia, O. maculata, O.
Mascula and O. purpurea, all of which are interesting
and beautiful.
warmer. Hydrantzeas only need to be ju^t protected iron*
the frost. Your Kentias and Cj'rtomiuras liave very
probably been allowed to get too dl^'. wiiile, on the other
hand, the trouble may be owin-i to an excess of tnoLstlire-.
If the roots are in good condition, an occasional out three weeks, the others from
four to Ave weeks. Those marked " again in autumn "
would give a few blooms at that season ot the year.
June 10 — *Alberic Bart)ier (aeain In autumn). June 15 —
•Euphrosyne, •Goldflnch, •KtaS Andr6. Trier (PiTpetual),
•Paul Transon (again in autumn), •TausendscI 61, 'Tea
Rambler and Flower of Fairfield (Perpetual). June 25 —
•Veileheulilau, Aviateur B16riot and Juliet (a-ain in
autumn). July 1 — 'Crimson Rambler, •F6li"it6 Per-
pStue, *Blush Itamliler and "Starlight. July 10 —
"American Pillar. July 20— Dorothy Perkins (a-.-ain ir>
autumn). White Dorothy (a-'ain in autumn), Coqvuna,
Exeelsa (again in autumn) and Hiawatha (acain in autumn) .
ARCHES OF ROSES TO BLOOM CONTINUOUSLY
(E. T. M.). — You could plant an early and a late blooming
RosetOL'ether. This is often done ; for instance. Carmine
Pillar to bloom early, and Aimee Vibert late. If you plant
wiehuraiana Roses, you will find the date of flowering
given in some lists. Jersey Beauty would flower early,
and Evcelsa late. By keeping the growths of each
well reduced, there would be no overcrowdinff. Certainly
vou could plant Wistaria as you suggest, and the effect
would be very pleasing. There are other subjects, such as
Llematises, Loniceras, Laburnums, Ac, that will all
help to make a pergola most interestin'j -. in fact, one may
have something nearly always in bloom by judicious
selection. Berberis Darwinii makes a fine hedge, and it
grows freely. Veronica Traversii is rather slow. Vou
would find Osmanthus ilieifolius a quicker grower than
Holly and not so expensive. Rose American Pillar
makes a delightful hedge plant, and It is almost evcrgreen-
By putting down a few posts and wires you would soon
have a good 7-feet to 8-teet hedge, or taller if desired.
FLOWER GARDEN.
WATER LILY POOLS (H. F. A/.).— It is quite natural
for the leaves of your Water Lilies to die m the winter.
The opportunity should be taken to clean out the tanks
while the plants are at rest. Remove all mud and give
new soil If necessary. Scrub the sides of the tanks and
make everything as clean as possible. You will doubtless
obtain flowers next summer. In the event of the peen
scum growing next summer, add copper sulpl at« to
the water at the rate of one part of the chemical lo
1,000,000 parts ot water. If you calculate the cubic
capacity of the tanks and then assume that each cubic
foot of water weighs 62 Jib., you can easily ascertain
the correct amount of copper sulphate to use. Tie the
THE GREENHOUSE.
PLANTS FOR WINDOW CASE (Gerard).— If the weather
is very severe, it will he a good plan to protect your case
with a covering of some kind ; if of a woolly texture, so
much the better. This, of course, will only be necessary
in the event of severe frost. Provided you have ample
means ot ventilation, the various summer-flowering sub-
jects may well he grown in such a structure. Petunias
would do well therein, and also Fuchsias, wiille perhaps
the most desirable things of all for the purpose would be
tuberous-rooted Begonias.
TREATMENT OF HYDRANGEAS, KENTIAS AND
CYRTOMIUMS (L.). — We should not advise you to cut
back your plants of Hydrangea Mrae. Moullidre now,
as the prominent terminal buds will contain the future
flowers in embryo. Any cutting back required should be
done as soon as the llowers are over, and, direct ly new
shoots are pushed out, the plants must be repotted if they
require it. When the pots are full of roots, an occasional
stluuilant will be beneficial. If the cuttings of last sprinc
had been in an ordinary frame, they should have lost their
leaveB, so we presume that you have kept them rather
FRUIT GARDEN.
PEACH TREES (S. R. B.).— niass protectors to Peach
walls should be placed in position before the trees come
into bloom (say, the end of this month), and allowed to
remain on till t'lie fruit is set and danger of frost Is passed.
GRAFTED TREES : APPLE KING OF THE PIPPINS
(C. W. B.). — (1) Three scions In each graft would be
quite sutficient to leave, selecting those best placed for
future growth. (2) Uoses potted up in December would
be better planted in their quarters about the second week
in February.
ABOUT PLANTING VINES (fl. W. fi.).— It is a pity to
take out the variety Alicante, as it is one of the best to
grow, crops heavily and keeps well generally. If the roots
are well fed and the Vines are not overcropped, the U^rries
will not shank. All late varieties should be ripe by
October 1 to keep well. If ripened much later, they neither
colour well nor ripen. The following are five good varieties
to grow, although for general use Black Hamburgh is
not excelled by any other : Foster's Seedling, free cropping,
easy to manage, keeps well ; JIadresfield Court , heavy
cropper, Muscat flavour; Appley Towers, a grand late
sort; GrosColman, large berries and bunches, free cropping,
hangs on Vines late ; and Lady Hutt, a late white, free
cropper, sets berries well, strong growing, and keeps until
the new year. No white excels the Muscat of Alexandria,
but it is best grown in a house by itself and given special
treatment. Messrs. J. 11. Pearson and Sous of Lowdham,
Notts, make a speciality of Vines in pots.
MISCELLANEOUS.
GRUBS OF THE SWIFT MOTH (F il/ C ).— The grubs
ire those nf the swift moth, wiiicii Is a Iroiil.lesnme pest of
a large number of plants, devouring any lleshy roots
almost liidlscrinilnatelv. It would be well to turn up any
ground near by rouirlily, so that lirds can get ot the grubs,
For starlings and some other blnls arc very (ond of them.
Vaporite or "orae otiier soil funiigaut may, perhaps, help
to drive theni a,vay.
LIME AND MANURE {Kent).— So harm should follow
the treatment you adopted in liming the new soil and
subsequently mixing well-manured earth with It ; quit©
the contrary. Loss of ammonia follows mixing Urae
and manure before they are put into the earth, but not
after, for the soil will absorb any ammnuia libiTaled.
Vour treatment of the soil appears to have been ailmlr-
able for the purpose of growing shrubs, and the only
addition we can suggest Is that of basic slag at the rate
of about four ounces to the square yard.
isfey-
GARDEN.
—^^~
^^^^fczi^fe
No. 2202.— Vol. LXXVIII.
January 31, 1914.
CONTBNTS.
68
Notes of the Week
cokiiespondence
Briquettes from coal-
aust
Mossy Saxifraj^es ia
winter 54
The Gold Mohur Tree 64
Lai e-dowcring Hoses 54
Eccremocarpus scaber 55
A gooil plant for a
north or east wall
A new race of winter
or early - flowering
Sweet Peas . .
Ceanothus Gloire de
Versailles as a pot
plant 55
An interesting shrub 55
Forthcoming events . . 55
Hose-growing in town
gardens 55
In a Hampshire garden 5li
Canker in fruit trees . , 56
Frasera speciosa . . . . 57
Saxifraga oppositifolia
in its native habitat
54
65
55
57
58
59
Orchid notes
J.'wo interesting shrubs
CoLonRED Plate
The Caucasian
Scabious and its
varieties
The herbaceous or
mixed border . .
Gaedening fop. Beginners
Trees aud shrubs for
wind screens . . 61
The cultivation of
Figs .61
Wnat to do mth gar-
den refuse . . . . 61
Gardeni.ng of tke Week
For Southern gar-
dens 62
For Northern gar-
dens 62
Is the Daffodil a florist's
flower f 63
Gardening acrostics . . 63
Answers to Correspon-
dents 63
Societies 64
I L Id U ST RATIONS.
Mossy Saxifrages in winter 54
Frasera speciosa 56
Saxifraga oppositifolia growing among stones . . . . 57
Cistus corbariensis, a beautiful Rock Rose 58
The Caucasian Scabious Coloured plate
A spray of the Winter Sweet 59
An eflEective way to group Gladioli 60
Method of arranging plants 60
Sketch showing comparative distances to plant . . 60
5foung, erect-growing Poplars as a wind screen . . 61
HDITORIAIi NOTICES.
Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.
The Editor welcoines photographs, articles and notes,
but he will not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are eiKlosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.
As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It mnst be distinctly understood tliat only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of tlie copyright will be treated with.
The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Gakden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Offices: 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Oarden. W.C.
To Our Readers. — We shall be glad if any
reader who experiences difficulty in obtaining
The Garden from newsagents will send us
particulars.
Starting Fuchsias. — Plants that have been
stored for the winter may now be gone over and
pruned, and before placing them in any of the
houses, examine them carefully for mealy bug.
Where some of the older plants have become
unsightly, it is a good plan to cut them back
almost to the pot, when they will break and make
good furnishing plants.
Flowers Visited by Humming-Birds. — The
bright red flowers of Erythrina Crista-galli are
inverted, the wings are nearly aborted, and the
keel forms at its base a honey sac. This curious
structure has led to the supposition that the
flowers are visited by humming-birds. Brug-
mansia Knightii is another favourite in culti-
vation with inverted flowers that is said to be
visited by humming-birds, but such instances
are very uncommon.
A Beautiful Early Crocus. — In some sheltered
spots the flowers of the charming Crocus Sieberi
are already showing, and, given a few suimy days,
will soon be fully open, and so reveal the beauty
of the orange-coloured stigmata. This colour
makes a fine contrast to the soft lilac hue of the
petals, which, it must be admitted, are rather
easily damaged by bad weather. However, it
is a Crocus that we would not like to be without,
coming as it does in the wake of the Snowdrops
and Winter Aconites.
Improving Lawns. — Tennis lawns and golf
putting greens that, from pressmre of work, were
not top-dressed in the autumn should now receive
attention. If moss is present, scarify the ground
with a sharp-toothed rake, give a good dressing
of groimd lime or powdered charcoal, and after-
wards apply some sand and sifted soil, distributing
it evenly over the surface with a broom or the
back of a rake. It will, however, be too early
to apply artificial manure ; this had better be
deferred till March.
The Winter Heliotrope. — Petasites fragrans,
commonly known as Winter Heliotrope, although
so often looked upon as a weed, is worthy of more
notice than it sometimes receives. The scent is
very pronounced, somewhat similar to the well-
known Cherry Pie (Heliotropiimi peruviauimi),
and if grovm in pots and placed in the greenhouse
or sitting-room when in flower, very few plants
that we are acquainted with afford so rich a
perfume, although perhaps the peculiar Almond-
like scent may not be agreeable to all. .Although
highly valued for the fragrance of its blossoms
produced now, at what might be termed a dreary
period of the year, precautions should be taken
when introducing it into the flower border. A
good plan is to enclose the roots in a large flower-
pot or pan, and plunge this in the ground, other-
wise the roots spread rapidly.
Alterations in the Rock Garden. — Any altera-
tions intended to be made in this department
should be accomplished as soon as possible, so
that planting may take place before the season
is too far advanced. When sharp frost is over,
it may be foiuid necessary to reduce some of the
stronger-growing plants to make room for choicer
subjects, such as hardy Primulas, which are not
grown so much as one might expect, considering
their hardy constitution. They will live through
a severe winter, provided they have good drainage.
Their habit of raismg themselves above the surface
of the soil renders it necessary to apply a top-
dressing of good soil in the autunm.
The Cilician Winter Aconite. — This plant,
Eranthis cilicicus, has but little to distinguish
it from our older one, E. hyemalis, the ordinary
Winter Aconite. Both flower very early, and both
have yellow flowers surrounded with the pretty
Elizabethan ruff of green, which increases their
beauty so much. The flowers of E. cilicicus
may be slightly larger and possibly more finely
cut, though this serration varies in different
lots, and the shade of green may be slightly deeper
or more bronzy ; but for all garden purposes
there is little to choose between the two. A
moist soil suits the Winter Aconite, and, though
common, it is a flower we cannot well dispense
with if we wish to have a glint of gold very early
in the year.
Help tor Aged and Infirm Gardeners.— On
another page will be found a report of the aimual
election of pensioners on the funds of the Gar-
deners' Royal Benevolent Institution. We
take this opportunity of appealing to our
readers to subscribe to this admirable chari-
table Institution, which exists for the pur-
pose of granting pensions to old or infirm
gardeners, or the widows of gardeners. It
is extremely sad to think that many thoroughly
deserving persons cannot be relieved of unmerited
distress, owing to the lack of fimds. The Insti-
tution is conducted by a strong committee, the
members of which are held in the highest esteem
in the world of gardening, and as all expenses,
which are really very low considering the amotmi
of work done, are met by the interest on invest-
ments, every peimy subscribed is used for actual
relief. We therefore hope that our readers, in
enjoying the many beautiful flowers in their
gardens, will give more than a passing thought
to these poor old people, many of whom in the
past have contributed their quota of industry
in bringing these flowers into being, and who,
through no fault of their own, have fallen
on evil times. The secretary is Mr. G.
Ingram, 92, Victoria Street, Westminster, and
he will be pleased to furnish anyone with
full particulars concerning the work of the
Institution.
54
THE GARDEN.
[January 31, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
(The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
done, the occasions are rare, 1 venture to affirm, have only to add that Viscountess Folkestone
when they approach anjnvhere near the above one of the most fragrant and fascinating of all
Briquettes from Coal-dust. — Is it possible to
concoct " home-made " briquettes (for burning
on a coal fire, open or closed) from an accumulation
of coal-dust? If so, what should be mixed with
the coal, and what is the method for maldng and
shaping the briquettes ? — Clossy, Hants.
Mossy Saxifrages in Winter.— I can fully
endorse all that is said about Mossy Saxifrages
(issue January lo. page 17) and the dense carpet
of vivid green in winter. In frosty weather,
however, the contrast with the sombre hue of
the surrounding rocks is even
greater, as may be judged from the
accompanying photograph, taken
on January 24 last, when vege-
tation generally was clothed in a
mantle of hoar-frost. — C. Q.
Primula pulverulenta Mrs. R.
V. Berlieley. — I am grateful to
Dr. Macwatt for having corrected
my description of this Primula,
which appeared in your issue of
January 10, page 22. There can be
no doubt that the variety figured
is the same as Dr. Macwatt's, for
both were obtained from the same
source. As for the seeding of this
variety, I have since learnt that
so far it has not produced seed in
this coimtry, although it was
■ originally raised from seed sent
home by Messrs. James Veitch
and Sons' collector from China. —
A. D. M,
The Gold Mohur Tree.— In
your issue of January 17 1 note
that Mr. T. Tillard has answered
■ " G. D.'s " enquiry about the Gold
Mohur Tree. Mr. Tillard is right
in saying that it is a variety of
Poiriciana — it is Poinciana regia,
of, I think, the Acacia family.
It flourishes considerably in
Lower Burma and the Straits
Settlements. It grows beautifully
in Maulmain, Tenasserim, where
it was first known by the
Burmese as "-Yondawbyar,"
meaning " The Coming Back from
Court Flower," as a tree had
been planted near the Court
House, and the young clerks
used to stick a flower of it in
their hair and take it home to their sweethearts
or wives. — Burma.
A Fine Plant of Euphorbia jacquiniseQora.—
Some time back, when looking round an old garden
in this North London district, I made note of a
very good specimen of the above plant, which
was growing in a border of a warm greenhouse.
I was unable to gather any actual data as to its
age, but it had evidently been there a good number
of years. It was about three feet in height and
rather more in width, while some of the stems
were of considerable thickness, which fact would
strengthen the idea of age. It has not been my
good fortune to grow or see grown such an excellent
plant as the foregomg. The usual practice, as
is well known to plantsmen, is to grow them in
pots either singly or in threes, and, however well
dimensions.. Apparently the border' ■ method of
growing this Euphorbia is most satisfactory, at
least where large plants are valued, together
with the possibility of their living several years.
MXer once the cuttings are struck (a difficult
matter at times), I do not think the secret of
doing this plant well rests with' the tremendous
heat, as some growers advise, but rather
with a well-drained and warm rooting medium
and more air than is usually given. — C. T.,
Highgate, N.
Late-Flowering Roses. — The Rev. David R.
Williamson writes us from Kirkmaiden Manse
on Januan- 24 : " It may interest your Rose-
A WINTER SCENE IN THE ROCK GARDEN. MOSSY SAXIFRAGES
COVERED WITH HOAR-FROST.
loving readers to learn that I have had several
highly attractive varieties in flower in my garden
within the past week. Among these were an
abnormally tall plant of Margaret Dickson, which,
after climbing through an exceptionally high
Hawthorn hedge for fully five years, now blooms
at least three times in the year at a height of not
less than 21 feet. Another specimen of the same
heroic and highly attractive Hybrid Perpetual
(which should rather be regarded as a Hybrid
Tea, as Lady Mary Fitzwilliam has imparted to
it many of her best attributes), which is also
at present in flower, overtops an Apple tree in
the centre of the garden at an almost equally proud
elevation. Its world-renowned raiser, Mr. Alex-
ander Dickson of Newtownards, is naturally much
gratified by its achievements in my garden. I
Roses, and the beautiful Bouquet d'Or are also
flowering still."
So much has been written about late-
blooming Roses that it may seem ridiculous
to mention that on January 9, when visiting
the nurseries of Messrs, Allwood Brothers,
near Hayward's Heath, I found a batch of Roses
in their garden blooming quite freely. Several
hundred bushes in the open nursery were
practically bare of leaf, but in the garden,
sheltered by a tall hedge, the bushes were full
of foliage, while really fine flowers of Rich-
mond, Lady Ursula, Mrs. W. Christie Miller
and many others were to be seen on everv
hand. On pointing out the value
of all flowers at the present time,
one of the men was told to
cut the blooms, for many of
the Richmonds were equal to
those making 5s. per dozen in
the market. — T. A. W.
Ranunculus Matthewsii and
Varieties. — Readers of The
Garden, and especially lovers
of rare alpines, owe a debt of
gratitude to Mr. W. Wilcox of
New Zealand for the photograph
of that little-known plant R.
Matthewsii, an illustration of
which appeared on page 2 iji
the issue of January 3, and
for bringing to the notice of
the flower-loving public one of
the finest sub-alpines of the
-\ntipodes. To let his note
and illustration pass imnoticed
not only damps the ardom: of
the warmest enthusiast, but dis-
courages him from sending
further notes which might prove
helpful and interesting. Writing
in answer to a note of mine
which appeared in The Garden
about three years ago, your
esteemed correspondent " S. A."
thought the species difficult
to cultivate and establish in
this country. But at the great
International Show, 1912,
Messrs. Backhouse of Y'ork
seemed to have dominated those
difficulties. As reported in The
Garden, May 25, 1912, page
256, we read that this enter-
prising firm had exhibited in
their rock garden " the rarely
seen Ranunculus Lyalli (of which Matthewsii
is a variety), with its handsome flowers of
glistening white above the setting of glossy
peltate leaves. This is perhaps one of the
rarest plants in the exhibition, one to look
for and admire." In The Garden for July 30,
1910, an excellent illustration is given of R.
Lyalli, from a photograph sent by a New
Zealand reader, Mrs. Izard of Whanaka, which
gives a good idea of the beauty of this plant
growing in its native habitat. Mr. Wilcox in-
forms me that he has still another rare thing
in store, and is looking forward to it
flowering this year. This is R. Lyallii variety
Traversii, which he collected four years ago. —
J. E. Davies, The Gardens, Talygarn, Pontyclun,
Glamorganshire.
January 31, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
55
Eccremocarpus soaber. — How is it that this
handsome climbing plant is to a great extent
neglected ? True, it is not, strictly speaking,
hardy, but one sometimes finds plants of this
so-called half-hardy perennial which have become
thoroughly established and produce an annual
display of their trumpet-shaped, orange flowers.
The writer last autumn saw a splendid example
of this plant in Essex. This particular specimen
receives no protection during the winter, and
has been growing for several years in its present
position. Plants can be raised frorn seed, but it
sown in the ordinary way, viz., covered over with
soil, the results are anything but satisfactory.
Seed which falls to the ground will often germinate
freely. This fact gives one the correct method
to adopt when sowing. Seed sown in shallow
trays containing a thin layer of moist soil and not
covered will almost invariably germinate. The
trays may be placed in a frame or cold house and
given a shady position. Do not allow the soil
to become dry. — C. R., Saffron Walden.
A Good Plant for a North or East Wall.—
White-flowering plants suitable for planting against
walls having a north or eastern aspect are not too
plentiful. There are several species of Clematis
which thrive in these positions, also Spiraeas.
The subject of this note, Deutzia crenata, or,
as it is sometimes called, D. scabra, is not so often
seen as it should be. Although often met with
in shrubberies, where it is frequently a sadly
neglected plant, its qualities as a climber are not
fully appreciated. The principal reason is that
the proper method of pruning is seldom followed.
This is one of the many Deutzias which require
severe pruning immediately after flowering. The
flowers are produced on the young shoots of the
previous season's growth, and the stronger these
shoots are, the better the flowers. Young growths
5 feet or 6 feet in length are produced by this
treatment. These should te secured to the wall
about eight inches apart. A good loamy soil
suits the plant, and moisture is essential during
the season of growth. — Colin Ruse, Sulhamsiead.
A New Race of Winter or Early Flowering
Sweet Peas. — More than eighteen months ago I
was told by Mr. Arthur Yates of Sydney, Australia,
that a very precocious sport had recently appeared
there among some ordinary Spencers. The seed
had been saved, and a wonderfully early flowering
strain had resulted. This is known in Australia
as the Yarrawa Spencer, and has been a decided
acquisition in such warm climates as that of
Sydney, for if seed be sown in late summer or early
autumn, the plants will begin to bloom in two
months from the time of sowing, and continue in
flower for some two or three months longer ; in
fact, until the hot weather begins. Tliis strain
has now been crossed with the older winter-
flowering varieties, with the result that a large
and vigorous race has been obtained, which is
further distinguished by well-formed blooms of
much substance. The name " Concord Hybrids "
has been given to it, and it is said by the raiser
to be superior to the Algerian one of Arkwright,
the American of Zvolanck, or the British of Engel-
mann. I am going to try these Australian seeds
this spring, and I hope to send an account of them
later on in the year. It seems to me that a public
trial of these various early flowering strains that
are now before the public would be most useful.
Why should not the Royal Horticultural Society
be asked to find room for a small representative
collection of each of them, and grow some in pots
under glass and some in the open ? I find these
early Sweet Peas so very useful, and I would like
to know which is the best. — Josepi! Jacob.
Ceanothus Gloire de Versailles as a Pot
Plant. — Having given this shrub a trial as a
pot plant, I have been agreeably surprised to find
how readily it responds to such treatment. One
is so accustomed to see it making a glorious display
on a wall, herbaceous border, or in a shrubbery,
that it is rather difficult to picture so much at
home in a pot. To those, however, who have
not grown it in this way I would suggest doing
so, for the result will afford ample compensation.
A strong point in favour of this treatment is the
advantage of being able to hasten or retard the
flowering period. Quite nice bushy plants may
be obtained in 6-inch or 7-inch pots. While any
kind of forcing should be avoided, the Ceanothus
may safely be placed in a warm greenhouse to
hasten its growth a little in early spring, a light,
airy position being chosen. In order to be retarded,
the plants should be plunged in a bed of ashes
under a north wall, and pruning delayed as long
as possible. After the flowering period an outside
position in full sunlight ripens the wood and
ensures another successful display the following
season. The plants should be wintered outside,
with the pots plunged to protect them from frost.
When pruned, the young wood should be cut hard
back to one or two good " eyes." — H. Turner,
Serlby Gardens, Baiatry.
An Interesting Shrub. — Though by no means
a brightly coloured flowering shrub, the Bladder
Senna (Colutea arborescens) has its own particular
beauty, which is quite sufficient to justify its
inclusion in even a limited collection of shrubs.
The Coluteas belong to the Order Lcguminosae, and
are easily grown shrubs, thriving in poor soil
and in exposed situations. C. arborescens is
said to be one of the few plants that grow on or
near the crater of Mount Vesuvius. The flowers
are borne in great profusion in short sprays,
and are yellow in colour. These arc followed by
the seeds, which invariably set with great free-
dom, and are contained in highly inflated pods.
These latter are the chief attraction, and a good-
sized shrub covered with these peculiar-looking
pods always attracts attention. There is a variety,
media, which is even more prolific than arborescens
and not quite so large in the size of the bush.
The colour of the flowers is also different, being
more of an orange shade. This variety was very
fine last autumn in Mr. Brough's interesting garden
at Ochilview, near Perth, where it was greatly
admired by numerous visitors. Among the many
choice shrubs grown there it was the outstanding
feature during August and September. Coluteas
are easily increased either by seeds or cuttings,
the latter taken off with a heel and inserted in
sandy soil in autumn either in a cold frame or in
a sheltered comer outside. -^ W. L., South
A yrshire.
ROSE-GROWING IN
GARDENS.
IN TOWN
FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
February 2. — National Chrysanthemum Society's
Annual General Meeting.
February 3. — Scottish Horticultural Associa-
tion's Meeting.
February 5. — Linnean Society's Meeting.
February 6. — Royal Gardeners' Orphan Fund
Annual Meeting at Simpson's, Strand, at 5 p.m.
February 7. — ^Royal Scottish Arboricultural
Society's Annual Meeting. Societe Frangaise
d' Horticulture de Londres Meeting.
February 9. — United Horticultural Benefit and
Provident Society's Committee Meeting.
HYBRID PERPETUALS, although
among the hardiest Roses, are by
no means best for town gardens.
For the most part they are more
fastidious as regards soil than the
Hybrid Teas, and are only really
satisfactory where the staple is of a heavy nature.
All are more or less addicted to mildew, and,
speaking generally, they are strong growers which
do not give results in proportion to the space
they occupy. However, we must still look to
the Hybrid Perpetuals for some of the best dark
reds, and although they are mostly inferior to the
Hybrid Teas in regard to shape and freedom of
flowering, almost all are very sweetly scented.
The Best Hybrid Perpetuals.— The two that
no Rose-grower can afford to be without are
Frau Karl Druschki and Hugh Dickson. Both
are known and grown everywhere, and there
can be hardly a Rose garden in which they find
no place. If the garden be very small — and un-
fortunately there are many such in towns — it is
best to limit the choice in Hybrid Perpetuals
to these two varieties, relying on the Hybrid
Teas for the rest. In this case they can be grown
as standards on thei lawn, for which both are
eminently suitable, and they will make good
companion trees. The red and white form a very
effective contrast, and this arrangement has the
advantage of separating them from the Hybrid
Tea and Tea Roses. Both are rather difficult to
accommodate as dwarfs, on account of their un-
willingness to behave as such. Frau Karl Druschki
has an especially awkward habit of breaking
with tremendous vigour from the topmost eye,
which must be fully taken into consideration
at pruning-time, or plants become unshapely.
Both are suitable for pegging down.
Those with sufficient room to devote one or more
beds to this section will find a number do quite well
in towns where the soil is suitable. Ulrich Brunner
is a fine, sturdy grower, free-flowering and very
sweetly scented, though not always satisfactory
in the quality of the blooms it gives, and its very
light green foliage seems to have an extra attrac-
tion for all insect pests. Mrs. John Laing is
another fragrant and good all-round variety,
though it seems hardly necessary to go to the
Hybrid Perpetuals for pink Roses. Gloire de
Chedane Guinoisseau is a promising variety of
fine shape and colour that seems likely to become
a recognised town Rose. Captain Hayward is
a fine Rose of a dazzling shade and free-flowering,
but not good in a hot season, and even more
insistent than most Hybrid Perpetuals in demand-
ing a clay soil. Those who would have dark crimson
kinds should include in their selection Fisher
Holmes, Charles Lefebvre and Commandant
Felix Faure. In the case of many of the old
Hybrid Perpetuals, half a century or more of
artificial propagation seems to have robbed them
of some of their original characteristics. Of
Prince Camille de Rohan, what is practically a
non-flowering strain seems to be pretty widely
distributed. Marie Bauraann is another which
seems to have deteriorated, and many nurserymen
are giving it up. Margaret Dickson and Mrs. Shar-
man Crawford should not be grown in town gar-
dens, both being too prone to mildew, while Horace
Vernet is of little use except on the maiden plants.
Rambling Ros^s and their use in town gardens will
be dealt with on February 14. P L. Godd.\kd,
hQ
THE GARDEN.
[January 31, 1914.
IN A HAMPSHIRE GARDEN.
SOME OF THE NEWER POMPONS
(POLYANTHAS).
FROM climbers and semi-climbers one
passes to the other extreme, namely,
the Pompon or Miniature Roses ; and
one would like to emphasise the fact
that a very great deal of pleasiure is
missed by the Rose-grower
who omits to have a fair selection of
these delightful Roses in his garden. One
uf the first as a class to flower— by reason
of the fact that no pruning is required,
only a removal of the flower-stems of the
previous season ; these carry no dormant
buds, but are bare of all possibility of
further growth — they go on flowering, so
much so that if a Rose is ever to be found
on a plant in every month in the twelve,
it is on these Pompons that I should
expect to find it. At the present time
(January 20) Mme. E. A. Nolt^, one of
the stronger-growing varieties,. is carrying
flowers and buds in profusion, and that
same bush had flowers on it in April last
year, so that is ten months out of the
twelve. Some of them, of course, drop
their foliage, and with the foliage goes
the flower ; but others seem to retain it
until the new growth literally pushes off
the old. There have been quite a number
of additions to this class during recent
years, but 1 have not attempted to keep
pace with them in my own garden, only
getting the best of those I have seen
growing elsewhere. Among those I have
seen in this way are the following :
Backfisch (Peter Lambert, 1910). — This
is rather a cruel sort of name for a pretty
Rose ; pink blossom, not very large, but
ol distinctly good shape. No doubt there
is a reason for the label, but these things
ought to be translated for us. The plant is
free-flowering.
Cyclope (Dubreuil, 1910). — This was
described as an improved Jessie; but I
prefer Jessie. It is a dark crimson, with
a distinct white stripe, and is possibly as
free-flfjwering.
Daphne (Rev. J. H. Pemberton, 1913). —
This IS, I see, classed with the Pompons,
but is really a Hybrid Musk, one of those
Roses possibly that it was hoped would
climb ; but it has refused to do so. At
any rate, it is perpetual flowering, and
is vigorous for this class. Semi-double,
pretty rose pink flowers, fading to flesh.
Erna Teschendorff (Teschendorff, ign).
— Another " improved Jessie," and this
time with possibly somewhat more title
to that distinction. It is a good dark
crimson that does not fade ; said to be
a sport from Mme. Norbert Levavasseur.
Let us hope it will never revert back to its
parent. What an appalling colour Mme. Norbert
Levavasseur can be, and generally is !
Ellen Poullsen (Poullsen, 1912). — A good deep
pink, nicely scented. All these Roses are free-flower-
mg and perpetual, so I shall leave out these two
remarks in dexluig with the remamder. The flowers
are rather larger than the usual run of Pompons.
George Elger (E. Turbat and Co., 1912).— This
is quiU one of the best of these new introductions ;
a good bright, clear yellow, deeper, of couT'Se, in
the bud. Flowers medium size, and making a
nice-shaped plant.
Jenny Soupert (Soupert et Notting, 1912). —
This is a good-shaped white, flushed pink in the
early stages. Nice large clusters of flowers ; likely
to be useful.
Jessie (Merryweather, 1909). — This well-known
Pompon is only mentioned here to draw attention
to the fact that it makes a really excellent half-
Orleans Rose (Levavasseur, 1910). — A deeper-
coloured Mrs. Cutbush, and by some said to
be preferred of the two, as it is, if anything,
the freer flowering, especially in the autumn.
It flowered here right up to Christmas. It is
quite good.
Pompon de Lyon (DubreuU, 1913). — Another
deep puik, but distinct enough. Not so strong a
grower as some. One would call it medium for
this class ; that is, about 12 inches or 15 inches.
Queen of the Musiss (Paul and Son,
1912). — This is a delightful Rose ; Hybrid
Musk I suppose we should call it. Very
free, and making an excellent bedding
Rose. Flesh white flowers, with deeper-
coloured buds. Recommended.
Yvonne Rabier (E. Turbat and Co.,
1911). — The companion to Maman Turbat
at the Chelsea International Exhibition.
This is a fine white ; flowers large and
produced in beautiful panicles. A most
effective bedding Rose. Recommended.
Six good varieties of the older sorts in
distinct colours would be found in the
following : Leonie Lamesch (very tall),
Mme. E. A. Nolte, Philippine Lambert,
Perle d'Or, CecUe Brunner and Eugenie
Lamesch (very dwarf).
Southampton. Herbert E. Molyneux.
FRASERA
SPECIOSA, A LITTLE-KNOWN PLANT WITH
CREAM V-WHITE FLOWERS.
standard, and, so used, has a quaint effect as | plant
isolated or dot plants.
Maman Turbat (E. Turbat and Co., 191 1). —
First seen at the Chelsea International Exhibi-
tion, where it was much admired. As seen out
of doors, it is even finer. It makes fine
growth, and produces its flowers in very large
trusses. Colour, pleasing China Rose. Recom-
mended.
{\ CANKER IN FRUIT
TREES.
\_l)i Answer to a Correspondent,]
OF all the troubles of fruit-
i growers, canker is one of
I the most general and the
' most easily recognised.
Most of us are too familiar
with the large, unsightly
gaps it makes in the bark of Apple
trees, gradually spreading round the branch
until it has completely girdled it and the
branch dies. Canker has been attributed
to a very large number of causes, and
there are undoubtedly several different
forms on Apples in various parts of the
world, and probably more than one in this
country, but the commonest is that asso-
ciated with the fungus Nectria ditissima,
the bright red fruits of which are being
produced now on canker spots on the
affected trees. Like many other disease-
producing fungi, this can only attack trees
through open wounds. The spores applied
to the healthy, unwounded bark have no
power of penetrating it ; but should they,
in early spring or in summer, when the
spores are liberated in myriads, be carried
by wind or insects on to an open wound,
they will germinate, and in all probability
make their wa>' into the cambium and
quickly destroy it. Thenceforth there is a
constant struggle between the affected
and the fungus for supremacy. The
plant during its more active periods \vill strive,
by making a wound-healing callus, to cover
up the wound, and may, if it be in thoroughly
good health, succeed in doing so and in getting
the better of the fungus ; but generally, as soon
as growth is checked by seasonal changes, the fungus
grows ahead and destroys the tissues newly made.
This kind of thing will go on year after year.
January 31, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
57
sometimes for many years if the diseased branch
be a large one, the wound in the bark becoming
more and more open, and allowing bacteria and
so on to reach and cause the decay of the wood.
One of the first effects of the attack — the destruc-
tion of the bark over some considerable area —
causes the flow of food made in the foliage down
the stem to be interfered'with. A greater quantity
of food is thus kept in the stem above the wound,
and, at the same time, there is a lessening of the
water sent up the wood, since the death of the
cambium has caused a cessation in its formation.
This increase of stored food and decrease in water
supply has the usual result of increasing fruitful-
ness, though the fruits produced will probably
remain small. The last state quickly comes,
however, growth gradually or rapidly ceases, and
death supervenes.
Two things, thus, are necessary for the spread
of the disease — the fungus, and the wound by which
it may enter. It is impossible to exterminate the
fungus, for, although great care would
destroy it in orchards, there still re-
main Crab Apples, and, in addition,
several other native trees are liable
to attack. Wounds difficult to heal
can be avoided to a large extent, how-
ever, by taking care that all cuts
made are clean and large ones ; after
smoothing over with a knife, protect
by painting with lead paint or tar
(not smearing with earth, as is so
often done). Wounds made by in-
sects, frost cracks, dead shoots break-
ing off, careless climbing about in
trees, gunshots, and the like are also
a menace. Of insects, none is worse
than the woolly aphis or American
blight. The soft tissue produced as
a result of its attack is very liable to
act as a nursery for the fungus while
it is young, and from this spot it
spreads and does serious damage.
Frost cracks and dead shoots resulting
from frost in spring are always more
common in wet and low-lying locali-
ties than in places where there is a
free circulation of air and thorough soil
drainage. The bottom of a valley is
one of the worst spots for late frosts
as a rule ; higher up the slope the trees
are far less liable to suffer. These frost
wounds are mostly at the base of a bud,
or in the angle between stem and
branch. The other causes of wounds can be avoided
with care, and, where they occur, every care should
be taken to protect the wounds made.
Certain varieties are more subject to canker
than others, probably because they are more liable
to wounding. Ribston Pippin, Cox's Orange
Pippin, and Wellington (or Dumelow's Seedling)
are notoriously liable to canker, and where heavy
sou or places liable to sharp late frosts have to
be dealt with, it is wiser to select the hardiest
varieties of Apple.
Cutting out and burning the diseased patches
is the only method of dealing with the disease
when once the tree is attacked, and, at the same
time, care should be taken to paint over wounds
thus made. The knife used should be dipped
in carbolic acid or in methylated spirit after each
cut is made.
It should be remembered that the bright red
fruits already referred to are not the only source
of infection. The fungus produces another type
of spore by which it is spread, this time taking
the form of whitish patches on the canker spots
and occurring during the warmer parts of the year,
so that immediate attention to any wound is
best. Scientist.
FRASERA SPECIOSA.
The little-known genus Frasera contains about
seven species of North-West American hardy
perennials belonging to the Natural Order
Gentianaceae. One of the most showy species
is F. speciosa, which sends up a straight and strong
flower-spike from 3 feet to 4 feet in height. The
general appearance of this plant resembles that
of a Veratrum or False Hellebore, which, however,
belongs to quite another Natural Order, viz.,
LiliaceEB. The flowers of F. speciosa are creamy
white, and are borne in June and July. It thrives
in a fairly moist situation, and forms a suitable
subject for planting in a low bay in the rock garden.
plantation — this Saxifrage grows in such abundance
that its deep green leaves and rosy purple (ranging
to pale pink) flowers ca 1 be seen from a con-
siderable distance. It seems hardly credible
that the plant could find sufficient nourishment
in such a waste of stone to thrive so luxuriantly ;
but no doubt the constant decay of the older
leaves provides some amount of humus, and
the patches of growth are sure to arrest any
finer particles which may come down the mountain-
side. Reginald A. Malby.
ORCHID NOTES.
THE CALANTHFS.
T"'HESE are terrestrial Orchids which may be
divided into two sections — the evergreen
and deciduous — and it is with the latter
that I shall deal. They are very popular plants, and
are largely grown in gardens where there is no
SAXIFRAGA OPPOSITIFOLIA GROWING AMONG STONES ON A MOUNTAIN SIDE.
The genus Frasera is named after John Fraser (i 750-
181T), a collector of North American plants.
SAXIFRAGA OPPOSITIFOLIA IN ITS
NATIVE HABITAT.
This Saxifrage, a large scale illustration of which
appeared in The Garden of November 30, igr2,
has its principal habitat among the rugged rock-
falls of the higher passes, where its minute growths
make vast cascades of verdure, mantling the rocky
ground. The accompanying illustration shows
forcibly the kind of position in which it makes its
home. Here, forming an enormous buttress
against the steep western face of the Schwarzhorn,
in the Valais, lie the shattered remnants of that
portion of the mountain upon which the elements
have made such an onslaught. Many of these
blocks, which lie about in all directions, weigh
several tons, and in the interstices of these huge
lumps — probably where some small amoimt of
wind-blown detritus had accumulated to start the
attempt made to cultivate other Orchids. This
can be easily understood when we take into con-
sideration their free-flowering qualities, and the
fact that the long spikes are produced from
December till March.
Repotting. — After the flower-stems are removed,
the pseudo-bulbs take a short rest in a temperature
of 50° to 55° Fahr., and when growth and root
action commence, the repotting must be done.
Some growers place one bulb in a pot, but where
the bulbs are plentiful several may be included, so
that a nice specimen that will come in very useful
for decoration in the dwelling-house is secured.
The largest bulbs may be planted singly in 5-inch
pots, and about four of the smaller ones in a 7-inch
or 8-inch pan. Each receptacle should have one-
fourth of its depth filled with drainage, over which
is laid a thin layer of fibrous loam. If not already
done, the bulbs must have all the old 'soil shaken
away, and the roots cut back to an inch or so of
their base, the object being to leave a httle tuft
58
THE GARDEN.
[January 31, 1914.
to keep the bulbs firm in the fresh compost. This
consists of the best fibrous loam one-half, peat
one-fourth, the other part being made up of
sphagnum moss, small crocks or charcoal, and a
little manure from the old spent Mushroom-bed
or a sprinkling of bone-meal. The whole should
be broken up into pieces about the size of a Walnut,
and when thoroughly mixed it will be ready for
use. Press the soil fairly firm, and when the
operation is completed, the surface ought to be
just below the rim, as Calanthes enjoy plenty of
water when thoroughly established.
Subsequent Treatment. — A light position in the
plant stove. Cucumber-house or warm Orchid-
house should be selected, and water ought not to
be given frequently until the roots take possession
of the compost. As growth advances and the new
bulb forms, they must never be dry at the base
till after the flowering period. A moist atmosphere
must be maintained, and a little top and bottom
kind is required, Regnieri shoiild be chosen ;
it blooms at a time when all fear of fog is
passed. T. W. Briscoe.
at home on a wall of any aspect, at least in Southern
gardens. A deep, rich sandy soil suits it best,
and it should be kept trained neatly to the wall
or building against which it is planted.
TWO
INTERESTING
SHRUBS.
THE WINTER SWEET.
(Chimonakthus fragrans.)
IT is no small wonder that the fragrant flowers
of the Winter Sweet are so much appreciated,
for they are borne in the depth of winter,
however bleak and cold it may be. More-
over, the sprays are so useful for cutting,
the flowers lasting for weeks in a room and
yielding their precious fragrance the whole time.
This shrub was introduced from Japan nearly
a century and a-half ago, and it is bound to remain
A BEAUTIFUL ROCK ROSE.
CiSTUS CORBARIENSIS.
Although not often cultivated, this is unques-
tionably one of the most delightful of all the
Rock Roses.- In June it is literally smothered
with small white, satin-like flowers that resemble
single Roses. It is of low-spreading habit, not
exceeding 2 feet in height. Like other Rock Roses,
it is well adapted for a warm bank or a sunnv
position in the rock garden, and it seems to show
preference for a stony soil. C. corbariensis is
sometimes regarded as a variety of C. salvifohus,
but it is probably a hybrid between that species
and C. populifolius.
In very hard winters it is not unusual
for some of the Rock Roses to be
severely damaged, or even killed out-
right, by frost. This, however, may be
guarded against by covering up the
compact shrubs either with dry litter
or mats. One of the hardiest species
is C. laurifolius, which does quite well
even in Scottish gardens, while C. pur-
puruns and C. ladaniferus are two other
beautiful species that as a rule with-
stand frosts satisfactorily. Like the
Sun Roses (Helianthemums), to which
they are related, the Rock Roses are
delightful subjects for growing on
sunny banks or in positions facing
south in the rock garden.
TH E CAUCASIAN
SCABIOUS AND ITS
VARIETIES.
1
COLOURED PLATE 1486.
CISTUS CORBARIENSIS, A BEAUTIFUL ROCK ROSE SUITABLE FOR CLOTHING A WARM BANK.
ventilation be given during hot weather. Calanthes
do not require so much shade as the majority of
Orchids, but some slight protection from the
strong rays of the sun is necessary during the
hottest part of the year. When the bulbs are near
completion, the foliage will begin to decay at the
tips, and the spikes appear near the bottom of
the pseudo-bulb. To keep the plants tidy, the
leaves may be trimmed with a pair of scissors,
but this is not necessary, only for the sake of
appearance.
The Best Calanthes. — Hybrids play an im-
portant part, and the most popular of all is the
rosy pink C. Veitchii. Then we have the pure
white Harrisii, Oakwood Ruby, Baron Schroder
and others, while the principal species are rubens,
rosea, and vestita with its numerous varieties,
the best being luteo-oculata, Regnieri, rubro-
oculata and Tumeri. Where 4 late-flowering
a favourite, for those who have once had it in their
gardens look for the fragrant flowers in midwinter
as eagerly as others look for the opening of the first
Snowdrop in sprmg. Occasionally one hears
of complaints about the paucity of flowers. This
may be due to very youthful plants or im-
proper priming. Obviously it would be a mis-
take to prune in autumn, for this would mean
the removal of flowering wood. The correct
time to prune is after flowering, and just as the
young leaves are about to develop. The flowering
wood may then be cut away, or at least very much
reduced, to make room for new growth, the flowers
being borne on the wood made the previous
season.
The variety grandiflora is an improvement on
the species, the flowers being larger and more open,
but it is scarcely as hardy. It does well on a south
or west wall, whereas the species appears quite
F I were asked to give the names
of a dozen first-class herbaceous
plants, I should certainly in-
clude the Caucasian Scabious,
despite the knowledge that there
are those who, gardening vntb
hardy plants alone, say they are
unable to cultivate it. That con-
dition of things is, I fear, due
to the belief that it is only neces-
sary to plant it in ordinary
garden soils and expect the finest results. That
is a mistake at the outset. As a matter of fact,
this particular species would appear to abhor
heavy retentive soils, though quite at home in
some of the stronger loams where these are of a
sandy nature and well drained. At the same
time, an even greater measure of success follows
its cultivation in light and warm soils, and it offers
no objection to those largely composed of vege-
table matter, or others of a peaty nature. In a
word, therefore, the plant may be said to flourish
in light, well-drained soils in preference to all
others. If such as these are at planting-time
enriched by the addition of a good layer of cow-
manure a few inches below the base of the plants,
so much the better.
In such circumstances the seedling plant will
make fine tufts in the course of a season, and
in turn vield in the followng year a rich luirvcsl
January 31, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
59
of flowers of which any hardy plant grower would
feel justly proud. In point of colour beauty
and refinement the Caucasian Scabious is one of
the indispensables, one that no good garden
should be without ; hence it is suggested that
the soil be made to suit the plant. The delicate
lavender blue of its flowers is quite a rarity in the
garden at any season, and few are more highly
prized in the cut state. '.The florist-decorator
thinks well of it, and it is alike as valuable to the
exhibitor of hardy flowers as for the decoration
of the border at home. So much, then, in justifi-
cation of my opening statement, and a plant
possessing the good attributes named merit?
not merely good cultivation, but
specialisation, should occasion
arise.
Raising from Seeds. — Apart
from the important question of
soil, that of raising the plant
periodically from seeds merits
close attention, for more than
one reason. On light and warm
soils this handsome Scabious is
usually a good perennial. On
heavy soils it is not so. Then,
again, because of its abundant
and profuse flowering, the stools
become exhausted ; hence the
need for replacing them with
others of a more youthful and
vigorous nature. Happily, seeds
are abundant and cheap, and,
vegetating quickly and with com-
parative certainty, afford the
readiest means of propagation to
amateur and professional alike.
The seeds should be sown pre-
ferably during the autumn or
winter months, so that, vegetating
in the earliest days of spring,
there is still a full season ahead
for the plants to make good
growth. These would be best in
a cold frame. Seeds sown in
February or later should be given
greenhouse treatment, a tempera-
ture of about 50° being ample.
In either case the seedlings
should be potted off singly when
large enough to handle and
grown without a check from the
start, so as to be ready for their
permanent quarters in the open
ground early in May.
Varieties. — Though variations
naturally occur when raising plants
from seeds, the species has not been
prolific of good or distinct forms,
though such names as superba,
atrocaerulea, perfect a and others
have been catalogued. A good white
variety received an award of merit so long ago
as 1895, an honour never granted to the typical
kind. The white is not pure, however, and there
is abundant room for another of more glistening
purity. The most recent addition — it is an
acquisition as well as a novelty — is that depicted
in the coloured plate presented with this issue.
This originated with Messrs. James Cocker and
Sons, Aberdeen, and when exhibited by them in
August last as Scabiosa caucasica magnifica
(Cocker's Variety) gained an award of merit
from the Royal Horticultural Society. It is the
finest I have seen, the flowers larger and of a
deeper lavender blue than the original. The
stock at present is limited, and as in common with
such plants the seedlings do not come absolutely
true, propagation has to be effected by division —
a rather slow method. E. H. Jenkins.'!
THE HERBACEOUS OR
MIXED BORDER.
HOW TO MAKE AND MAINTAIN IT.
Arrangement of Plants. — I wonder if there
ever has been a border so perfectly arranged
as to give complete satisfaction ! The spotty
A SPRAY OF THE WINTER SWEET (CHIMONANTHUS FRAGRANS
GRANDIFLORA), a hardy shrub that FLOWERS IN MIDWINTER.
border, consisting of single plants disposed accord-
ing to relative heights and colour ; the triplet
border, in which all, or nearly all, of the plants
are arranged in threes ; the chess border, with
its divisions severely four-sided, with one kind
of plant in each division ; and the higgledy-
piggledy one so prominent in published schemes
of planting, with its impossible corners protruding
into other equally impossible divisions, the pre-
vailing objective being a strildng dissimilarity
of form and filled with plants as dissimilar as
possible. Each and every one of these has its faults.
And, really, though \vf- may struggle to attain
perfection, it is best to assmre ourselves that in
the production of herbaceous borders it is a thing
unattainable. Were we to hit on an arrangement
perfect in every respect, there an so many vicissi-
tudes in front, from the young gardener's clumsy
boot to the changeableness of omr climate, that
we can never hope to travel an undeviating road
to success. Personally, I do not like any of the
styles here noted. Nor do I Care to stereotype
any arrangement, but, on the contrary, like to
vary the planting and, to some extent, the plants
every year. It is true that the same flowers never
tire the lover of flowers ; but fashion must be
consulted, and fashion is largely a gradation
of changes. At the same time,
I deprecate copying the plant-
ing of herbaceous borders, so
largely the custom of to-day.
No one can have a fresh garden
whose schemes are the outcome
of what has already been pro-
duced in other gardens, and it
is to be preferred to retain the
individuality of one's own garden,
though at the expense of per-
haps a short-lived brilliance, rather
than have it a bad second to
another. The person who thinks
out schemes for himself is the
one who sooner or later will be
among the copied.
In Even a Narrow Border ii
is not essential to have com-
parative uniformity of height
and evenness of slope. In a
wide border it is important that
these should not occur. Not
only should the best -plants be
selected, but they should also be
arranged so as to provide the
best effects they ■ are capable
of giving. Thus we would mass
certain plants, e.g., Rudbeckia
speciosa, Phloxes, Eupatorium
Fraseri, Pentstemon^ Southgate
Gem and others, Polygonum
affine and certain of the Asters.
Some we would rnass and also
employ singly or in close clumps.
Such are Hollyhocks, Liliums
tigrinum, candidum, ' Martagon,
&c.. Gladioli, Aconitum autum-
nale, A. Wilsonii, Montbretias
and Anemone japonica, and there
are a number which perhaps
always should be graded singly
— Agapanthus umbellatus, Statice
latifolia, Eryngiums generally,
Francoa ramosa, Astilbes and
Delphiniums. Very important,
too, are the parts of the border
to which the various plants are
A handsome-habited plant should
never, or hardly ever, be put where any part of
it is hidden by another and less attractive plant.
Hence in the front of the border should be found
LiUvmis, Carnations, Agapanthus and such like.
Hollyhocks, as a rule, look best against a back-
ground, but care must be taken that the plants
in front are not so tall as to obscure the charm
of their individuality. Galtonia candicans is
usually best placed behind plants tall enough to
cover the foliage, which towards autumn becomes
unsightly, the spikes only being seen. To me
it is a serious drawback to gloriously coloured
apportioned.
60
THE GARDEN.
[January 31, 1914.
arrangements that this important feature of form
is so little, if at all, considered, the mere general
height of plants being enough to decide what
part of the border they shall occupy. Those
who may cherish fears as to the general effect
of a border not by any means homogeneous in
height may dismiss them, because a border fairly
apportioned with tall plants towards the back
gives quite as good an effect, even though broken
in several places by dwarfer plants, as one in which
a similarity of height is maintained throughout.
And that border affords great scope for particular
effects. Thus there may be a hold mass of Holly-
hocks well to the back, on one side supported
with tall plants, while, on the other, groupings of
low-growing plants from front to back afford a clear
view of these stately flowers, and there is the
added interest of variety in height and form
to the good. The advantage of
A Wide Border is chiefly on account of the
variety in arrangement of this kind, of which
there is practically no end, because, reverting
to the above instance, there may be an assortment
of plants of various height, such as Campanula
decline to
break away
from hard
lines and
e qui - dis -
tances, and
every new
hand has to
be careful !>■
broken in
before t h c
slightly
natural way
of arranging
is acquired.
It is usually
along the
front edge
that the out-
come of the
math e m ati-
cally minded
planter is
most evi-
denced,
though the
varying by a
few inches makes
y£uy hejdce
f?.
iii
LJ
EfiD or eo!fD£R
'^AfiOS
all the difference. Another
e\TLl to be avoided in planting is
the setting of front plants too far
METHOD OF ARRANGING PLANTS.
The circles are pink and cream Holli/?iOcks, and the crosses Francca ramosa.
£DGf
AN EFFECTIVE WAY TO GROUP GLADIOLI, USING A CARPETING PLANT TO COVER
BARE SPACES.
pyramidalis widely spaced, with dwarfer plants
carpeting the ground. The illustration shows how
to arrange Gladioli near the edge or front of a
border with carpeting vegetation among them, such
as Viola, Cornflower, or other suitable plant.
Nor need there be too close adherence to the
well-trod path of clumps of one species or variety
of plants, a very nice by-path to loiter in
occasionally being a mixed planting in carefully
selected parts. It is perfectly wonderful, not-
withstanding the many well-considered notes we
have all read on colour grouping — good, bad, and
indifferent — how plants themselves possessed of
very inappropriate colours yet combine to give a
happy whole. One of my own
Colour Combinations of the past year
commenced with sulphur Montbretia and lilac
Phlox, and passed on to a broad groundwork
of Verbena, dwarf pink Chrysanthemum, lemon
African Marigold, with taller plants dotted among
them of Gladiolus America, Francoa ramosa. Phlox
paniculata alba, P. Coquelicot, a few Asters
and single Hollyhocks, and in front Agapanthus,
white and blue. Here in the space of a few yards
run is quite a constellation of floral stars, ranged
apart from all the rest of the border, though
forming at the same time an integral part of it.
One of the most di£5cult things in the arrange-
ment of plants is the planting. Workmen invariably
back. Whatever the edging to the border may
be, the front plant should touch it. This, of
course, with som*"
things entails the
pruning of en-
croaching shoots,
&c. ; but that is
infinitely to be
preferred to the
bare and ugly soil
that is the con-
comitant of a space
left between the
verge and the
plants. Similarly,
when a very tall
plant is arranged
behind a dwarf
one, the former
should be planted
so that the two
touch, and it is
always a good rule
in planting to set
close those parts
that would appear
bare, though
further back and
unexposed to view
there is no occasion to be so particular. To
conclude this instalment, it may be noted that
many
Early Flowering Bulbous Plants besides the
well-known Scillas, Winter Aconites, Iris reticu-
lata, &c., which grow through low carpets of
vegetation, may be arranged all over the borders
mthout being very particular whether or no
they may be under some deciduous fibrous-rooted
plant. Tulips are rather diflSdent of so close
relations, hut Narcissi, Fritillarias and English
Irises do not mind a bit. In like manner Colchi-
cums grow through other plants in autumn,
and even the fragile-looking Crocuses, of which
the common C. speciosus is perhaps the most
engaging, do likewise. Individual taste must,
of course, be considered in these, and, indeed, in
all arrangements. R. P. Brotherstok.
Tyninghame, Prcstonkirk, N.B.
{To be concluded.)
J X
u
o
^ 7
y7?/?z35
SKETCH SHOWING COMPARATIVE DISTANCES TO PLANT.
1 Eetianlhus Miss Mellish ; 2, Phlol rianiculata (O) and Jconittim japmurtim or A.
Wilsonii (X) ; 3, Solidaijo canadensis ; 4. Holh/hork Rose Queen (cross in circle) and salmon
rose Larkspur (X) ,■ &. deep blue Larkspur, extending into No. 1 ; 6, Lohelia caidinalis ;
7, Chn/santhemum maximum Kinq Edward VII.; 8, Aster acns ; 9, Antirrhinum
Golden Chamois; 10. Aster I'luto ; 11, Phlox Elizabeth V ampbM ; 12, Helenium fieandi-
cephalum cupreum ; 13. Campanula piiramidalis alba and blue Coniflowe.r ; 14, jiurple East
Lothian Slock; 15, Anemone japonica Prolusion; 16. Gladiolus Baron -J . Hulot (01 and
a carpet of Nepeta Mussinii; 17. Aslfr Linosi/ris ; 18, Monthretia Vulean.
jANtJARY 31, 1914.]
THE GARDEN-
ei
, ■,:. - ■•^^.■■■■~.,.-.v». .»^:-.j— ..^.- ■■
GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.
TREES AND SHRUBS FOR WIND SCREENS.
SHELTER in a garden is one of the secrets
of success with many plants. Almost
the first thing to do when making
a garden in a windy or exposed place is
to plant trees and shrubs to shelter it.
The best evergreen tree for bleak posi-
tions is the Austrian Pine (Pinus Laricio austriaca).
To make a screen at once, plant 6 feet apart now,
and then, when the trees touch, every alternate one
must be cut out, leaving them 12 feet apart.
Sometimes it is necessary to plant two or three
rows. These may be. all Austrian Pines ; a fast-
growing Poplar may be used, or Spruce and Larch.
The Poplar is one of the quickest-growing and
one of the most valuable screen trees, thriving
well in the smoky atmosphere of our towns and
suburbs.
The Canadian Poplar ' (Populus canadensis) is
very fast-growing, but, being rather spreading
in habit, can only be planted where ample space
exists, though it will stand a little pruning. When
a screen is required quickly, and one which will
not shade the surrounding ground too much with
its branches, there is nothing to equal one of the
fastigiate growing Poplars, Populus alba pyra-
midalis (P. bolleana) or the Lombardy Poplar
(P. nigra pyramidalis), the former for preference.
The illustration depicts a row of P. bolleana
planted three years ago as a screen. The average
height of the trees was then 8 feet. With one or
two exceptions they are now 18 feet to 20 feet
high, a good illustration of the rapid growth of
this attractive and desirable tree. It is readily pro-
pagated from cuttuigs ; those from which the trees
in the accompanying illustration were grown
were inserted six years ago last November. The
distance apart for planting varies ; 10 feet from
tree to tree is a suitable distance, but an immediate
effect may be secured by planting at half this
distance, this amounting at once to practically a
hedge. The Poplar is one of the easiest trees to
transplant successfully ; trees 10 feet or 12 feet
high move with seldom a failure. The Aucuba,
Laurel, Berberis stenophylla and B. Darwinii are
useful evergreen shrubs to plant for shelter.
Equal to these, or even better when the soil is
suitable, is the common piurple Rhododendron
(R. ponticum). Screens of trees in
Town and Suburban Gardens are very valuable.
Une of the drawbacks and evils of building houses
so closely is that the gardens are so much over-
looked, making secluded nooks few and far between.
This robs a garden of half of its pleasure. In
some gardens old trees were left standing when the
houses were built ; in others, young trees have
grown up since. One almost invariably finds the
shade and shelter of trees very much appreciated
and valued by the owners. Sometimes there is
one disadvantage, and that is, when the tree or
trees are in such a position, while they seclude
portions of the garden from the surrounding houses,
they also render a part of it useless for flowers.
When planting trees, especially in small gardens,
this point must be considered. For this reason
one or other of the fastigiate Poplars should receive
consideration, as, while they form a splendid scre,en,
only a comparatively small light space is occupied
by them. As already stated, they grow quickly.
and will thrive in almost any kind of soil,
and in an atmosphere that would be fatal to many
kinds of evergreen trees. A. O.
THE CULTIVATION OF FIGS.
The Fig as a tree is easily grown. In many
instances, however, the inexperienced cultivator
fails to secure a crop of fruits on the trees. Although
very small trees usually possess many roots, a
fair proportion being fibrous, such specimens
will not mature fruit until the new soil has become
thoroughly permeated with roots, and, moreover,
it is essential to success that the rooting medium
be a very firm one.
Unlimited rooting space means much growth
and few fruits. Amateurs and others who possess
done while the fruits are swelling. Adnut air
freely in fine weather.
Trees in the Open Air. — Confine the roots
to a small space — in a brick pit 18 inches wide,
15 inches deep and 3 feet long. This space will
sufiice for a tree for many years. Use a similar
compost to that before advised, and do not over-
prune. Black Ischia and Brown Turkey are two
fine varieties. Shamrock.
WHAT TO DO WITH GARDEN
REFUSE.
The very best method of turning garden refuse
to account is to bum it and apply the re-
sultant ashes to the soil as manure. Experi-
ments conducted for fourteen consecutive years
YOUNG, ERECT-GROWING POPLARS PLANTED AS A WIND SCREEN.
FROM CUTTINGS PLANTED SIX YEARS AGO,
THESE WERE RAISED
small glasshouses may grow Figs in pots as well
as in the garden. The trees would only remain
in the house a few months to yield fruits before
those in the open air matured theirs ; then they
must be placed outside, but be carefully attended
to. If slightly forced in the first instance, two
crops may be grown on the same trees in one
year.
Young Trees in Pots. — I will very briefly
describe how these should be treated. Repot
them in pots large enough to contain their roots
and about as large a bulk of soil. Have clean
pots and crocks to ensure good drainage ; the
compost must consist of fibrous loam three parts,
and one part brick and mortar rubble. To a
bushel of the combined parts add a 5-iuch potful
of bone-meal. Trees that have been so potted
for one year at least and liecome established in
the pots should be subjected to a forcing tempera-
ture ; not recently potted ones. Manure is not
necessary in the compost, as all feeding should be
at the Worcestershire Experimental Gardens,
Droitwich, have proved that burnt garden refuse
is a very valuable manure, so much so that the
latest report says " That decayed and burned
refuse of the garden when used alone on the same
ground for fourteen consecutive years is a valuable
source of plant food which gives good results
about equal to those obtained from an application
of stable manure at the rate of t6 tons per acre
to the same crops under equal conditions in all
other respects."
The above extract shows that the gardener who
takes care of his refuse is to some extent indepen-
dent of stable manure. By burning, old stalks,
prunings and similar refuse can be turned into a
good fertiliser, and burning, it should be remem-
bered, is definitely destructive of whatever garden
pests may chance to be met with upon and about
the refuse. A comer of the garden, screened by a
rustic fence with climbers up it, will generally pro-
vide a hiding-place for the refuse heap. J. T. B.
62
THE GARDEN.
[January 31, 1914-
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR
Melons.-
SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
-It is better practice to plant the first
batch of Melons directly from the small pots in
which they were raised than to pot them mto
larger pots and plant at a later date; therefore a
hot-bed should be made up and the soil placed m
position a few days before the plants are ready
to put out, for if once they are allowed to become
stunted, the prospect of a successful crop will
be much reduced, llelons succeed best in rich,
turfy loam, into which a small quantity of old
lime rubble may be mixed. The depth of soil
should not be less than lo inches, and must be
made firm by ramming after it has become warmed
through, .\nother sowing should be made directly
each batch of plants is put out if an unbroken
supply is desired, and at least two varieties
be planted in each house with a view to succession.
Eminence and Hero of Lockinge are well worth
growing.
The Propagation of Vines.— This is an easy
matter, providing a warm pit or house is
available for the purpose. The Vme eyes should
be inserted in small pots of sandy loam and
placed over a gentle hot-bed. They will soon
start, and when two or three leaves are formed
thev should be carefully potted into 5-inch pots.
The most suitable soil is turfy loam, a small
quantity of old lime rubble, and a little bone-
meal, .-^fter potting, the plants may be placed
over a gentle hot-bed until well rooted, when they
must be potted and kept growing in a warm,
moist atmosphere. The compost for the final
potting should be of a rougher nature, and must
be made moderately firm. The temperature of
the. house may range from 70° at night to 85° by
day with sun -heat.
Plants Under Glass.
The Fernery. — Now that the majority of Ferns
are at rest, it is advisable to pot the plants as soon
as possible. The compost may consist of turfy
loam and peat in equal parts, with sufficient sand
and fine broken crocks to keep it in a porous con-
dition.
The Bougainvillea. — This plant succeeds better
on the roof of an intermediate house than in a warm
stove. Here at Frogmcre it is trained to the
rafters of a cool show house, and given ample space
for the development of its drooping flowering
sprays. It produces a grand effect throughout the
season. The Bougainvillea does not require a long
period of rest, and may be pruned back to the
leaduig stems as soon as possible, leaving sufficient
well-ripened shoots to cover the wires or extend
the plant. Plants in pots may also be pruned and
placed in an intermediate house until growth
commences, when they may be carefully potted
and placed in a temperature of 65°, where
the syringe may be freely used during bright
weather.
Cyclamens. — The most forward plants may now
receive a light top-dressing of Clay's Fertilizer
about once a week. Keep them near the roof
glass in a temperature of 55° until they are well
in flower. Seedlings raised in September and
wintered in pans may now be potted in small,
clean pots, and placed.™ a bed of ashes quite near
the glass. Syringe them twice daily, and keep a
sharp look-out for green fly, %vhich will soon cripple
the plants if not destroyed. Seeds may also be
sown now to produce .plants for flowering next
season.
The Flower Garden.
Dahlias. — Now is the time to place Dahlia
tubers in gentle heat for the purpose of increasing
the stock of any particular variety. A pit with
a temperature of 60° will suit them well. When
the young shoots begin to grow, they should be
fuUv exposed to the light to promote sturdy
growth. When they are about four inches long,
they should be renioved from the tubers with a
sharp knife, and inserted in small, clean pots of
sandy soil which has been passed through a fine
sieve. The pots may then be plmiged in a bottcm-
heat of 80° and kept close until roots are produced,
after which they should be gradually exposed to
light and air, and potted into 5-inch pots as soon
as readv. Dahlias may also be raised from seed,
which should be sown in February. If potted up
as soon as ready, they should produce an abimdance
of flowers from July onward.
Sweet Peas.— Some of the best varieties should
be sown in small pots at once for flowering in June.
Only a few seeds should be placed in each pot.
It is advisable to germinate the seeds in gentle
heat but as soon as the seedlings are through the
surface they should be kept quite close to the roof
glass and nothing more than protection from
frost attempted. The ground should be trenched,
and a liberal supply of good farmyard manure
mixed with the soil.
The Kitchen Garden.
Peas. — A sowing of round-seeded Peas may be
made now without fear cf the weather injuring
either seeds or plants, providing a sheltered position
is chosen for the purpose. A warm south border,
which has been trenched and manured in the
autumn, will suit them well. The Pilot is one of
the best for this purpose, being very hardy and the
quality first class.
Parsnips. — The ground for this crop should be
got ready as soon as possible. When dr;' enough
to crumble under the foot, the drills should be
drawn 18 inches apart and the seed sown carefully,
selecting a quiet morning for the purpose.
Carrots.— A small sowing of Early Gem Carrots
mav be made on a warm border as soon as the soil
is in a fit condition. Protection from frost may
be afforded by a light sprinkling of dry Fern, if
necessary.
Shallots may now be planted in shallow drills
I foot apart.
Jerusalem Artichokes.— if not already done,
this crop should be lifted as soon as possible.
The largest tubers may be placed in a stove, and the
medium-sized ones selected for planting. This
work may also be done at once.
Cabbage, Brussels Sprouts, Lettuce and
Cauliflowers should be so\™ as soon as possible.
If onlv a small supplv is necessary, the seeds may
be sown in boxes and placed in a slightly heated
pit, or they may be sown in a cold pit, providing the
soii is placed in the pit for the purpose.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Jerusalem Artichokes may now be planted
1 most places, provided the ground is at all
suitable. In a great many gardens this crop receives
but scant attention, and, like the herb border,
anywhere seems good enough for the plants. Yet
what a difference there is when they are well
cultivated. If the ground has not been previously
prepared, planting may be done as the digging
proceeds. It will be better to defer planting
the Chinese varietv, Stachys tuberifera, till some
time in March. To grow it well in the North, it
requires to be planted in light soil on a warm
border.
Parsnips may now be sown where one can
get the soil into working order, but defer sow-
ing should the soil be at all wet. It is a good
plan to fork over the soil in the morning and sow
in the afternoon. Where Parsnips are required
for exhibition purposes, the sowing may be done
any time, provided the soil has been prepared
beforehand for filling up the holes. Should severe
weather set in after sowing, the seed may be
protected by small pieces of slate.
Broccoli, in very cold districts, will require
some protection. There are a great many ways
of doing this, and all more or less good. The
method I find most effectual is to use drv- leaves
placed along the rows, as it is the stalk that suffers
from damp and cold.
Celery will also require protecting at this
season ; and for those who do not have a supply
of boards, a very good substitute will be found in
ordinary stable litter.
Lettuces. — .-\. small sowing of Lettuces, such as
Sutton's Nonsuch, may be made for growing
on in frames. They will be greatlv relished m
spring, when salads are so scarce
Radishes. — Continue to make a small sowing
of Radishes, as, like Lettuces, they are more ap-
preciated in the spring than when one has a surfeit
of them.
Winter Spinach. — This Spinach will be greatly
assisted by running the hoe between the rows
frequently and giving a slight dressing of sulphate
of ammr>nia.
The Flower Garden.
Lobelias. — Where it is intended to raise Lobelias
from seed, no time should be lost in sowing, and,
as it usually germinates like grass, sow sparingly.
Plants that have been wintered in a cool house
and are intended for stock purposes should be
introduced into heat, so that cuttings may be
secured as soon as possible.
Heliotrope. — Where large quantities of this
useful bedding plant are required, propagation
should start forthwith, so that the earlier-rooted
cuttings can be topped and struck later.
Alyssum. — The variegated form of .Alyssum
is again coming into favour, and as it does not root
as readily as one would wish, no time should be
lost in getting the stock plants into congenial
quarters.
Box Edging. — Where it is intended to make
up blanks or replant Box edges, the present is a
very suitable time for this work. Preserve all
the'trimmings that would be suitable for cuttings,
and make up a few lines for future use.
Epilobium rosmarinifolium is a charming
plant for a marshy spot in the flower garden.
It grows about two and a-half feet high, is
compact in habit, and does not ramble so much
as E. angustifolium.
Senecio Wilsonianus, wit"h its Eremums-like
flowers, is also a grand acquisition for such places.
Polygonum oxyphyllum, with its snow white
plumes of fragrant flowers, should also be included.
No collection of bog plants should be without
these three.
Gilia coronopifolia.— Many gardeners fail to
flower this handsome annual by being too late
in sowing. To have it in flower in late summer,
the seed should be so\ni at once.
Calceolarias. — Continue to exercise the greatest
precaution in admitting air to Calceolarias after
a spell of hard frost. I have seen himdreds go
off suddenly through carelessness in opening the
lights too freely, and thus giving the young plants
a severe check-
Hardy Fruit.
Apricots.— .\11 pruning and tying should now
be completed, as in sheltered spots they will
soon show flower. If they have not been protected
by netting or other material, this should be done
at once. A good herring-net, doubled, is as good
a protection as any, and this may be kept off the
trees with forked sticks placed at intervals along
the wall.
Gooseberries. — These may be syringed now with
a g id winter wash or Quassia Extract. This
will go a long wav towards keeping them clean
and acting as a preventive of caterpillar. Indeed,
where the plantation is not over-large, it will
pay to go over them frequently, using an Abol
syringe.
Plants Under Glass.
Gloxinias that have been stored during winter
may now be gone over and carefully examined
for rot. Turn them out of their pots, and place
the bulbs in boxes among some leaf-mould. Put
them in a warm house, potting them as growth
advances.
Caladiums.— .Almost the same treatment applies
to Caladiums, only they will require a little more
liberal treatment.
Malmaison Carnations in vinch pots will now
be ready for potting in 6-inch pots, provided the
soil hasbeen prepared as advised last week. Pot
fairly firmly and water sparingly ; indeed, they
should not require water for some days. Cuttings
of the Perpetual varieties, rooted about the New
Year, should now be readv for potting on singly.
They'ought to be handled v'erv carefully and placed
on a shelf near the glass. Those rooted earlier
may now be pinched well back, which will lay
the' foundation for a good sturdy plant.
John Hxghgate.
(Head-gardener to the Mnrquis .if Linlithgow.)
Hopelouii Gardens, South Qunfuslt-iry, N B.
January 31, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
63
IS THE DAFFODIL A
FLORIST'S FLOWER?
"YES" AND "NO."
SOMERSET," in his very interesting
articles on " Wtiat is a Florist's
Flower ? " in The Garden for Sep-
tember 13 and 20, 1913, did " Dafiodils "
and its author well. I sincerely thank
him. It is pleasant to feel that my
effort has met with a Daffodil-lover's approval,
for such I feelmy unknown friend must be. As
I said in my recent notes, my reply has
been simmering. So much is in the pan that
if it were all poured out it would fill a whole
number of The Garden. A good job it did
not, for I must confess I am a florist. In one
way we all are. " Somerset " himself is one,
else why does he relegate .that most charming
Santa Maria to the world of poor things. More than
once, too, after having heard Mr. Reginald Farrer
discourse, as only he can do, on the jollinesses and
the good formnesses of some Saxifrage or other
alpine, have I chimed in, " Yes, all right ; you
are getting on. Fancy not being contented with
what Nature first gave you. You really are,
after all, a florist in disguise." Some time ago
I was an onlooker at a scientific committee meeting
of the Royal Horticultural Society, when I heard
Sir Harry Veitch explain how John Heal had
first made a new race of winter-flowering Begonias
and then improved it. " Floristy " again. I
often think the larger half of mankind are Jesuits
at heart, but they do not like to be told so. I
feel certain three-quarters of the gardeners of the
world, if not seven-eighths, are florists in the
sense that they attach great importance to form,
size and substance, and almost invariably like a
well-filled-up flower to one more scantily endowed.
Maximus is preferred to Santa Maria by " Somer-
set." Probably any jury of twelve would give
as their verdict, " So say all of us." A florist, then,
in his childhood state is one who is not content
with all that Nature has given him. He wishes
to change and improve, he will tell you, the vege-
table kingdom. He would like to make fruit
more luscious and sweet, and flowers more attrac-
tive, and if the true spirit is in liim, this would be
one of his works of maturer years. In our own
Daffodil world, what else have Engleheart, the
WUliamses, Crosfield, Wilson, Brodie of Brodie,
Gore-Booth and the whole company of hybridisers
been trying to do but to improve the flower ?
Gentlemen, we are all florists. If so, is not our
flower a florist's flower ?
One day last summer I was about to be
taken over an interesting garden in Kent by its
owner and a friend. By way of letting me down
lightly and so that I might not be disappointed
with the show, one of them said, " Oh, I know
you are an arch-florist." I took it as a compli-
ment, for the most arch-florist I ever knew was
old James Douglas, and a more charming and
gentler-mannered man I have never met. One
of the red-letter days of my florist's life is May 5,
1909, the day I spent with him at Great
Bookham in the midst of his Auriculas. One
of my most cherished books is his " Hardy
Florists' Flowers," which he gave me as a memento
of the day. No one who has read Homer's touching
Preface to this little book can ever belittle them
again : " A touching history if it could be written
would be the nurture and ministry of florist
flowers. They have been the delight of many a
man in whom the love of Nature was inborn and
inextinguishable, but whose means were very
spare, whose leistire time was very scant, and
whose advantages in pure air and light and garden
space were very poor and cramped. . . . Yet
did the Spring smile on him in his Polyanthuses
and Ain"iciflas and Pansies, and Summer visit him
in the bloom of his Tulips, Pinks, Ranunculuses,
Carnations and Picotees. In one or more of these,
his love of Nature foimd expression, and enough
to live upon." The foregoing are words pregnant
with meaning. The Daffodil has had a different
upbrmging. It has not had to go through the
struggling times of the Auricula or the Pink. It
has never been a flower of the little back garden
or small hired plot ; but, nevertheless, there is in
the Daffodil-grower the same spirit and the same
hmnan nature as in the more humble cultivator
of the Pink and the Pansy, and I feel confident
that the one great stimulus that has encouraged
and still encourages them all in their work is the
stimulus of the show. It is the far-off ideal which
must never become a reality wiiich lures them on.
I quite recognise the possibility of that ideal being
a wrong one, but I do say there must be one,
otherwise why is not Mme. Plemp the equal of
Duke of Bedford, and Duchess of Brabant of
Evangeline, and omatus of Tennyson ? Otherwise,
why not pick up any Dick, Tom or Harry to judge ?
Why was I paid to go all the way to Barnstaple
last spring to judge the Devon exhibits ? Why
did not the committee save a big railway fare and
get some neighbouring head-gardener to award
the prizes ? Why ? Because the Daffodil is a
florist's flower ; because, already young as it is,
there have grown up certain standards of excellence
which I as an expert know and recognise, and
according to which X feel botmd to judge, and which
the ordinary non-specialist will not know. I do
not think " Somerset " and I are very far off when
we have eacli of us scratched the other deep enough.
One question to him to clinch my argument and
to end Part I. Would he prefer the head-
gardener at the nearest big place to where he lives
to judge a collection of his at a show, or, let us say,
Mr. P. D. Williams ? Joseph Jacob.
(To be continued.)
Balsam is Impatiens. A popular strain is called
the Camellia-flowered. || " I do not rule unless
I am ruled " is the motto upon a sundial in Upping-
ham. U Sir Uvedale Price, who died in 1829,
had great taste in laying out gardens. He wrote
a celebrated essay on the " Picturesque " in
1794- '* See Bacon's " Sylva Sylvarum " under
Century V. In the fifth edition, page loi,
sympathy and antipathy in plants are discussed.
RESULT OF ACROSTIC No. 7.
In this acrostic it was possible to get nine marks,
one for each correct " first " and " last," and
one for each correct light. The following marks
have been awarded :
Nine marks. — " Rustic," Wm. Bond, " Bow,"
" Westbank," " Boarsvale," " Miller " and " Hero."
Eight marks. — " Ping," " Jan," " M. M.,"
G. D. Kmg, ■' White Lady," " Elm," " St. Kevins "
and " Nautilus."
Seven marks. — R. Chapman, M. Browne,
■• Penwame," " Shamrock," Wm. Slorombe and
Ernest Ballard.
Six marks. — " W. J. W.." " Brixtoniau " and
" Rusticus."
Five marks, — " Tempus Fugit."
Four marks. — N. G. Hadden.
Two marks. — " Bees Whig."
GARDENING ACROSTICS.
SOLUTION
AND NOTES OF
ACROSTIC No.
7.
C.
CRISPA— PARSLEY.
» I.
C
OWSLI
P
t 2.
C
OLUMELL
A
t 3-
R
ED SpIDE
R
§ 4-
I
MPATIEN
S
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ANSWERS
CORRESPONDENTS.
FLOWER GARDEN.
Cryptogramme crispa (syn. Allosorus crispus)
is the well-known Parsley Fern which grows
among dibris on many British mountains. It
gets its popular name from its resemblance to
the familiar Parsley of our kitchen gardens. —
See Druery's " British Ferns." * Cowslip balls
and Cowslip wine are both made from the Cow-
slip of our meadows, t Columella, who lived
about a.d. 50, wrote upon agriculture and gar-
dening. He wrote twelve books, " De le rustica,"
and one uppu trees, " De arboribus." % The
red spider revels in a dry atmosphere and
dislikes damp. § The generic name of the garden
PLANTS FOR JAPANESE GARDEN (M. H ) — Fre
quently where the garden is .small, it is not conflned to
Japanese plants entirely, but a variety of hardy Heaths
and Azaleas are made use of as carpeters for Lilies and
other plants. In this way Azalea moUis In variety is
freely used, also Ledum palustre, Kalmias and the like.
Of hardy Heaths you might use the best varieties of Erica
cinerea atropurpurea, coceiuea, rosea and astrosau"uinea
E. carnea (Winter Heath), E. codonodes and E. medi-
terranea hybrlda would be worth growing, too, as they are
among the most valuable. Any of the varieties of Li'lium
speciosum, L. longiflorum, L. elegans and L. tigriuum
could be associated with these plants, while Primulas
japouica and pulverulenta would be quite at home in wet
or damp places. In addition. Iris Isevigata should be made
much of ; there are endless varieties, and no such garden
would be complete ^rithout them. Japanese Maples and
small-growing Bamboos are among other good things.
Just what should be planted, and where, depends very
much on the size of the garden and how it is laid out.
CHRISTMAS ROSES NOT FLOWERING (A. Y. P.).-~
If after flowering last spring you really did cover the
plants with manure, you have probably poisoned them
for the time being, and it will take them some time to
recover. The entire absence of new leafage during 1913
shows that there is something radically wrong with them;
as during that time they would be in a state of decline.
This leaflessness, whatever the cause, is doubtless responsible
for all shortcomings, the plants having sultered a loss of
root fibres in equal proportion. ' The soil cannot be blamed ,
seeing the plants have succeeded so well hitherto. .AH
you can do now is to place a handlight over the clumps
to encourage the development of the flowers, and, these
over, Ughtly fork about the plants and work into the soil
a dressing of Ume, which mil assist to neutralise the effects
of the manure. In all probability there will be but a
meagre leaf development this year, as a direct result of
the debilitated condition of the plants, and, if so, your
remedy mil be Ufting, dividing and replanting in August
ne.xt.
TREES AND SHRUBS.
FLOWERING SHRUBS FOR EFFECT (C. T.).— The
follOTOng shrubs are suitable for your purpose. Back
row: Lilac de Louis Spteth, L. Marie Legraye, Berberis
stenophylla, Rilies sanguineum atrosangiuneum, Laurus-
tlnus. Viburnum Opulus sterile, Forsythia suspensa,
Cotoneaster Simonsu, Biervllla Abel CarriSre and Pblla-
delphus coronarius. The other row may consist of
Daphne Mezereuin, Spiraea arguta, S. .Anthony Waterer
Diervilla F.va Kathke, Cotoneaster horizontalis, Phila-
delphus Lemoinei erectus, Hypericum patulum Henryi,
Pruuus japnnica flore pleno, Keiria japonica flore pleno,
lierberis walUchiana, B. AqiufoUum, and silver and golden
variegated Tree Ivies. Do not place the plants very close
together, for they will grow quickly. Should the ground
appear bare the flrst season, a few annuals may be planted
in the more open spaces.
64
THE GARDEN.
[January 31, 1914.
THE GREENHOUSE.
ADVICE CONCERNING VARIOUS PLANTS (A Reader).
—in In order to irow tho very larse heads of Uydranueas,
cuttm-'S should be taken in July of the stronsest terminal
shoots; such as you may [eel sure «111 Bower *■!« M.ow-ins
season. Wlien rooted, they should be shifted into 4-inch
pots and gTO^™ in a frame. The original leaves should
drop otf in tlie course of the mnter. In the month ot
Feliruary the plants should be sliifted Into their flowerinu
pots, 5 inches cr 6 inches in diameter, accordinir to their
vigour. A cood compost, mainly oonsistins of loam and
thoroughly decayed manure with a little ffnd' jvill suit
them well. If tliere is no manure available, leaf-mould
may he substituted, giving the plants stimulants later on.
After potting, the plants must have a 20"^ Posl''™ '"
the greenhouse. The small buds are of little account
and may be taken oft or left on as you think nt. (2) A.
you require your Mar«chal Niel Rose in early spring, we
should not prune it in any way now except ^o jemme
any weak and exhausted shoots. Under the conditions
named, any pruning required had, we think, best be done
after flowering. (3) It is very probable that .the rea on
of the non- flowering of your Passion Flower is that tjie
roots have an unlimited run, hence the strong growth,
while at the same time they are very likely in an unsuitable
soil The plant should certainly be kept tree from suckers
We' should certainly advise you not to prune the plant
now, but to wait until the end of the season, as it may
possibly Hower during the coming summer The whitL
markin-s on the leaves we do not imderstand, but if jou
send us a few leaves we can, perhaps, help you in the matter
(4) Good plants of the two species of Asparagus named
bv vou can be obtained from seed in about eighteen months,
provided (and this is an important item) the conditions
are favourable for their quick development. In their
earUer stages thev are far better siuted in a stove tempera-
ture than in a greenhouse. If the plants of A. pluniosus
referred to by you are the result of seed so^vn last year,
the pots— .5-inch and 6-inch— are much too large for them
at present. (5) All the pruning Lapagerias need is to cut
out any weak and exhausted shoots, it necessary, to
prevent overcrowding. The strong shoots pushed up from
the base must not be interfered with in any way, except
to secure them as they lengthen, in order that no harm
comes to the succulent point.
MISCELLANEOUS.
GRUBS IN MANURE (P. M- H.).— The grubs and
beetles are those common in manure, on parts of whicn
they feed. They arc not likely to be harmful to plants.
CHARCOAL AS MANURE (W. R. f.).— Charcoal is of
sli-ht value as a manure. Its main use in tlie garden is
to mix wnth the potting soil for plants which have to stay
Ion" in their pots, in order to keep the soil open and to
absorb vegetable acids, which would tend to make the soil
sour Just as one chars wood posts to check decay, so
charcoal decays but slowly, and parts with equal slowness
with any mineral salts that would be of value to the soil.
SOOT AS MANURE (Aniielu).—Yoa may use soot
direct from the chunney for making soot-water. In
buyin" soot it should be remembered that the Ughter
it IS in bulk, the better, for that is an indication ot
purity. Its composition varies, but tho average value
of the nitrogen in it (the only important constituent) is
6d a bushel. One should expect four bushels to weigli ,
a hundredweight, and at that rate the soot would be of
somewhat greater value.
VARIOUS QUESTIONS (IF. S. D.).— It is possible
that Rose Dorothy Perkins would suit your purpose
as well as any. -All Roses, however, like a fair amount
of sun, and vou would be well advised to give it as light
a position as possible. Jasminum nudiflorum may be
planted at once, but you had better not plant Cratsegus
Pyracantha until AprU. You ought also to be careful
to procure the latter shrub established in a pot, as it
usually transplants rather indillerently from the open
"round. Jasminum nudillorum flowers during midmnter,
and Crataegus Pyracantha blossoms about the end of May.
Both plain s may be procured from any of the firms of
general nurserymen who advertise in THE GARDEN. The
address of Mr. D. B. Crane is 479, Archway iRoad,
Highgate, London, N.
VARIOUS QUESTIONS (Trent).— Thme is not much to
choose between the merits of various kinds of climbing
Roses which may be grown as specimen weeping plants ;
but perhaps for general usefulness Dorothy Perkins takes
the lead. Hiawatha is also very beautiful when grown
as a weeping plant. Most people are guided in their
choice by the colour of the flowers. Nothing can be done
to your Ampelopsis to cause It to retain its leaves later in
autumn. The leaves of the large-leaved forms usually
fall more quickly than those of kinds which have
small foliage. It is usual for the leaves to increase
in size and alter in shape as the plants advance in age.
Some dlllerence also occurs when shoots from old plants
have been used for propagation, as they are likely to form
large leaves earlier in Efe than others which have been
raised from plants mth small leaves. Plants placed in
very rich soil also have a tendency to form large leaves
early in life, and it is usual for those growing in poor soil
to colour more brilliantly than others wliich are in good
soil. Gooseberry and Currant trees are often planted
between Apple trees, with good results, although the crop
of fruit may not be up to the standard of that grown on
trees occupying more open positions. It would be as
well to coiiflue the bushes to the more open parts of the
border, in some of the market gardens about London
it is usual to plant Lily of the Valley, Christmas Koses,
Wallflowers and .N'arcissi beneath the shade of j^pple and
Plum orchards.
COAL-ASHES FOR THE GARDEN (H. S. TF.).— We
do not think tlie use of coal-ashes in the garden, excepi
for the purpose of lightening the soil or for making cinder
paths is to be recommended. Their manurial value
is very slight, and they are apt to contain substances
poisonous to crops unless they have been exposed to
washing by rain for some time. It would be better to
weed the lawn, top-dress It with some good soil, and, when
"rowth begins in spring, manure it with some sulphate
of ammonia at the rate of half an ounce to the square
yard, not more. From what you say mth regard to the
pests your garden sutlers from, we should imagine the
soil to be sour and in need ot a dressing of lime. When thu
Carrots are through the soil and the fly which is the parent
of the maggot is about, sprinkle along the rows with
paraHin-moistened sand, and take care that the earth
about the Carrots is not loosened so that the fly can make
its way in. The cigar ash, used sparingly, would possibly
be beneflcial.
WEEDS ON LAWNS (Zeamer).— You can do little good
by covering your croquet and tennis lawns with sulphate
of ammonia or lawn sand and then resowing them. A
better plan will be to have as many of the coarse weeds
as possible pulled up by the roots at the present time.
The. " Champion " Daisy Litter is a good too! tor the
purpose. Then in March, in mild weather, proceed to
prick the siu-tace ot each la%vn over with a fork, and then
sow it with good seed, afterwards providing a light
covering of good soil which is free from weed seeds. .^
li"ht rolling, when the siu-face is moderately dry, will
complete the work. As the old turf is doubtless full of
weed seeds, weeds will continue to appear for some time.
These must be pulled up and not allowed to seed, ^ext
autumn give the grass a 11 oral dressing ot bone-meal.
This will encourage the grasses to outgrow the weeds.
When the grass is vigorous, a dressing of sea-sand occasion-
ally will encourage the finer kinds of grasses to outgrow
the coarser kinds.
THE RHODESIAN WISTARIA (BOLUSANTHUS
JPECIOSUS) (F .'. H.I.— Thisis a leguminous tree, native
ot Portuguese East Africa, Rhodesia and the Transvaal.
It is described and figured by C. K.. Sim in his " Forest
Flora and Forest Resources of Portuguese East Africa,
pages 44 and 45. From his description we find that it
forms a small ornamental tree, 20 feet to 35 feet high,
with hard, white, durable timber, wliich is used almost
exclusively for the spokes of wheels. The leaves are
deciduous; pinnate, and made up ot from nine to seventeen
lance-shaped leaflets. The flowers appear simiilt-aneously
with the young leaves in spring. They are usually violet
in colour, and borne in long racemes in a similar manner
to tlie flowers of the Wistaria. In some districts it is called
the Khodesian Wistaria, and, in other places, the \an
Wykshout or Maawthlii. It is not common in cultiva-
tion, is only grown from seed, and requires good deep
soil and a subtropic.il climate
PLANTS FOR HERBACEOUS BORDER {W. S. D.).—
Although your garden is rather shaded, there is no reason
why you should not be able to cultivate herbaceous
plants fairly satisfactorily. Be careful, however, to
well prepare the ground. Trench it from IJ feet to
2 feet deep, and add manure it at all poor. Should you
find that tree roots are likely to interfere with the border,
cut them off at a point 2 feet or 3 feet outside the border.
This should be repeated every second year. The following
plants may be planted, all ot which will blossom next
sprin", summer or autumn, according to season : Del-
phiniums in variety, garden varieties of Phlox for the
lighter places, Pa-onies, Salvia vlrgata, Monarda didyma,
Lychtus chalcedonica, Veronica teucrium, V. spicata,
V virginica, \nemone japonlca. Asters in variety, Clematis
recta Galega officinalis, Lilium candidum, L. tigrmum,
Helleborus nlger (Christmas Rose) tor shady and moist
places Saxifraga cordifolia. Pinks, Carnations, Lyclims
coronarla, Acanthus (various species) and CEnothera
biennis. The last named is not a perennial, but renews
itself by self-sown seeds.
NAME OF VLAST.—Beaily Groi'«.— Moschosma riparia.
NAMES OF FRUIT.— .4. Z). — A, Allington Pippin ; B,
Yorkshire Beauty ; 0, Winter Peach ; D, Blenheim
Orange ; E, Colonel Vaughan ; F, Washington ; a. Sugar-
loaf Pippin ; H, Wellington.
SOCIETIES.
ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.
ALTHOUGH cut flowers are exceedingly scarce just
now, there appeared to be no appreciable falling oil
in quantity at the fortnightly exhibition of the above
society held at Vincent Square, Westminster, on Tuesday
last. Carnations were the most prominent flowers,
and they were shown by numerous exhibitors. There
was also a wide selection of Orchids, while t:yclamen
again were well shown. But the leading feature ot the
exhibition was the vast collection of Potatoes from Messrs.
Sutton and Sons, the famous Reading firm.
Fruit and Veoetadle Committee.
Present: J. Cheat, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs. J.
Willard, E. Beckett, H. Markham, A. R. Allan, A. Grubb,
A. Bullock, G. Reynolds, W. Poupart, C. G. A. >.ix,
J. Basham and James Gibson.
As already mentioned, Messrs. Sutton and Sons staged
an extensive collection ot Potatoes. Xo fewer than
150 varieties, all of them in the flnest condition, were
shown. The firm's varieties Carisbrooke Castle and
Stirling Castle were to the tore, as well as a great
many promising seedlings under number. The collection
was "made the more interesting by the addition of wild
types and numerous hybrids. Certain Potato diseases,
as preserved specimens, including the much-dreaded
black scab, were also represented. The high award ot
a gold medal was deservedly given to this meritorious
exhibit. „ , ^ ,„ . ,
Messrs. J. Carter and Co., Kaynes Park, S.W., received
a silver-gilt Bankslan medal for an interesting collection
of stored vegetables. Including Onions, Carrots.
Potatoes Beet, Leeks, Celerlac and Salsify. The Onions
Selected .iilsa Craig and Carter's Record were worthy
of special mention.
Okchid Committee.
Present : J. G. Fowler, Esq. (chairman), and Sir
Jeremiah Cohnan, Bart., Sir Harry J. Veitch, Messrs.
James O'Brien, de B. Crawshay, R. A. Rolle, F. Sander,
F J Hanbury, R. G. Thwaites, \V. Waters Butler, T. .-U-m-
strou" A JIcBean, W. Cobb, J. Charlesworth, J. Cypher,
J E Shill, W. P. Bound, F. J. Chapman, H. G. Alexander,
C. H. Curtis, A. Dye, W. H. White, S. W. Flory, W. Bolton
and Gurney Wilson.
A silver Flora medal was granted to Messrs. Sander and
Sons, St. Albans, for a group ot exquisite Orchids,
including Phalsenopsis amabilis Illustre and many superb
Odontoglossums.
Messrs Charleswortll and Co., Hayward s Heath,
showed many superb Odontoglossums, ot wliich Doris
and amabile splendeus were the admiration ot all who saw
them. Silver Flora medal. _,.,,„
A similar award was made to Messrs. J. and A. McBean,
Cooksbridge, tor a magnificent collection of Cymbidiums,
in which C. gottianum was most plentifully shown.
Messrs. Armstrong and Brown, Tunbridge Wells, also
received a silver Flora medal. Their group included
many Cymbidiums, Cypripediums and .Masdevallias.
Mrs. Xorman Cookson, Oakwood. Wylam (gardener,
.Mr. H. J. Chapman), sent a beautiful collection of Odon-
tiodas, in which the colours blended harmoniously.
Cypripedium Venus, with six fine blossoms on the plant,
was also shown. Silver Flora medal.
Silver Bankslan medals were awarded to Messrs, J.
Cypher and Sons, Cheltenliam, tor magnificent Cypri-
pediums and Calanthes; Messrs. Stuart Low and Co.,
Bush Hill Park, Enfield, tor Cattleyas, Cypripediums and
Dendrobiums ; and Messrs. Flory and Black, Slough,
Bucks, for very select varieties ot Cypripediums, Cattleyas
and Odontoglossums.
Floral Cosimittee.
Present ; H. B. -May, Esq. (chairman), the Rev. F.
Pane-Roberts, and Messrs. E. A. Bowles, R. Hooper
Pearson J. Green, R. C. Xotcutt, G. Reuthe, G. (Jordon,
J Stevenson, C. Blick, C. R. Fielder, J. F. McLeod, J.
Hudson W. Howe, J. Jennings, W. Bain, J. Dickson,
C Dixon, A. Turner, Charles E. Shea, C. E. Pearson,
W. P. Thomson, E. H. Jenkins, W. J. James, W. J. Bean,
E. Mawdey and .\. A. Dorrien-Smith.
Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, W.C, showed
batches of the early Cyclamen ibericum, together with
Crocus species. Iris stylosa in variety. Snowdrops, ireesia
retracta Primula malacoides, P. obconica of an excellent
strain, and other winter-flowering subjects. The most
remarkable item, however, was forced flowers ot the
mauve-coloured Darwin TuUp William Copeland, which
in January is most unusual.
Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Enfield, staged a mce
"roup ot Carnations, the best vases being of Baroness de
Brienen Satin Robe and British Triumpli. Some excel-
lent flowers of .Mrs. C. F. Raphael were also in evidence.
Messrs. Low also displayed some very fine Cyclamen
in pans. Giant ^^^lite, Salmon King, Vulcan and others
being noted. A pretty feathered variety, white on
carmine ground, was included in the group.
The Misses Hopkins, Shepperton-on-Thames, had a
small exhibit ot rockwork, on which Gentians, early
(Cyclamen and hardy Primulas were seen.
Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chehsea,
displayed a capital table of winter-flowering plants—
the old double white Primula (P. sinensis alba plena),
Citrus japonlca in fruit, Azaleas (of which Deutsche
Perle and Mme. H. Siedel were excellent whites), Ireesia
refracta alba (very flue), the whito-fiowered Kalancho6
Dycri (a succulent from South .-Urica), LJly ot the Valley
and other good plants. ,
Messrs R. W. Wallace and Co , Colchester, again showed
a tabic ot dwarf shrubs suitable tor the rock garden.
Some of these— Ilex Pernyii, Thuja oriontalis aurea
nana Junipcrus globosa, Gre\1llea alplna, Cotoneaster
bu.xitolia, C. thymifoMa and Thuja orientalis aurea
gracilis— were quite good. Some select shrubby Veromcas
were also shown.
Messrs. Piper, Bayswater and Barnes, staged a par-
ticularly good rockery exhibit, on which the ear y
Cyclamen were beautifully colonised. These were chiefly
of tho ibericum section, and in their abundance were
very charming. Hocks and rock shrubs were arranged
on both sides. Primulas, Origanum, Dictamnus and other
plants being noted.
Messrs. G. and A. Clark, Liimted, Dover, show;ed
Prunroses and Polyanthuses ot an excellent strain, in wduch
varied shades of blue were seen. The richly coloured
Cloth ot Gold was also in evidence.
Messrs. J. Cheat and Sons, Crawley, had a pretty grouping
of early Cyclamen, Primulas, Primroses, hardy Heaths,
and alpincs in variety. The Portuguese Heath, Erica
codonodes, was very charming.
Messrs. Young and Co., Cheltenham, showed a group
of Perpetual-flowering Carnations, in which La .Mode,
.Marmion, Beacon, and British Triumph were seen.
^^
fGARDEN.
-y^~
^^±z^^M
No. 2203.— Vol. LXXVIIT.
February 7, 1914.
CONTENTS.
Notes of the Week 65
Correspondence
The history of white
Heather . . . . 66
Scarcity of Chryean-
themum cuttings 66
Mistletoe peculiaiity 66
Rose climbing Mme.
Melanie Soupert. . 66
Primula pulvcrulenta
Mrs. R.V.Berkeley 66
Rose Backfisch . . 66
Rose Mme. Edouard
Herriot . . . . 67
A beautiful winter
Heath 67
Mealy bug on Vines 67
Rose Aviateur B16riot 67
Thatched roofs . . 67
Forthcoming events . . 67
Seasonable notes on
Auriculas 67
Transplanting large
trees and shrubs . . 68
The Fig and its cultiva-
tion 68
Selection of vegetable
seeds 69
A beautiful Knotweed
for the rock garden
Hints on growing annual
flowers
Notes on Chrysanthe-
mums
Canarina campanula ta
The herbaceous or
mixed border . .
New Orchids
Gardening for Beginners
Flowering shrubs for
small gardens . . 73
Preparing greenhouse
plants for bedding 73
Gardening of the Week
For Southern gar-
dens 74
For Northern gar-
dens 74
Is the Daffodil a florist's
flower? 75
The action of salt on
soils 75
The Walnuts and their
cultivation . . 75
Books 75
ILLUSTRATIONS.
Rose climbing Mme. Melanie Soupert 66
An evergreen shrub ready for transplanting . . 68
A large tree ready for moving 68
An Evergreen Oak ready for transit 69
Polygonum affine in the Wisley rock garden . . . . 70
An attractive greenhouse plant 71
Cypripedium Desdemona 72
Cytisus prsecox, a May-flowering Broom 73
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
Every department of horticulture is repre-
sented in THE GARDEN, and the Editor
invites readers to send in questions relating to
matters upon which they wish expert advice.
ThQ Editor welcomen photographs, articles and notes,
but he will not he responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.
As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
ask.s that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.
The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.
I
fices : 20, Tavisto.-'k Street, Covent Garden, W.C.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Our Sweet Pea Number. — Next week's issue
will be largely devoted to Sweet Peas. We have
secured some particularly interesting articles and
illustrations relating to these flowers, and there
is certain to be a big demand for that issue.
Anyone requiring extra copies would be well
advised to order them in advance.
Artemisia arborescens. — There is now a
great demand for plants possessing silvery
grey foliage. This Artemisia is one of the best,
and it associates well with all lavender shades.
If cuttings are inserted now, they will make good
specimens by the summer, and on the approach
of frost they may be lifted and potted for
decoration indoors.
A Hint about Pea-Sticks. — When these are
first received, it is a good method to undo the
bundles and lay them in heaps on a spare piece
of ground, placing heavy weights, such as logs
of wood, on them. By doing so they become
flattened out, and are therefore more serviceable,
as well as being neater and going further. They
may be treated like this either before or after
they are sharpened, and are better still if they
can remain weighted down until required for use.
Winter Aconites. — These are, flowering quite
a fortnight later this year than they did last,
but we are pleased to iind that the colour is much
deeper and more characteristic. It is difficult
to understand why they are not more freely
planted, particularly in grass, or shrub borders,
where the rich yellow blossoms are seen to
perfection. Outdoor flowers in January and
February are none too plentiful, and full use
should be made of those that are available.
Raising Dahlias from Seed.— The value oi
Dahlias for decoration, both for the garden or
vases, cannot be over-estimated, and few plants
give such a succession of bloom during the summer,
although for cutting the single and Collarette
forms are generally preferred. Seeds should be
sown now and placed in a little warmth ; they
will then make good plants for putting out in
June. The ground they are intended to be grown
on should not be heavily manured at the time
ot digging, as it encourages strong, sappy growth ;
but a little feeding when they are in bloom will
be more beneficial.
A Tree for a Moist Situation. — Those who are
desirous of planting an efiective tree in a position
where the groimd is naturally wet, such as the
vicinity of a pond or stream which is liable to
overflow its banks, might try the variety of the
Speckled Alder which is known to botanists
as Alnus incana ramulis coccineis. It differs
from the type by reason of the bark of the young
branches and the buds being red, a colour which
is very attractive in winter. Moreover, the male
catkins are showy, for they also present a
ruddy effect, especially before the pollen is ripe.
Like other Alders, it is in nowise fastidious regarding
soil, providing it is on the moist side, and has the
advantage of many trees by being able to grow
in places subject to regular flooding.
TJie Alexandrian Laurel. — Everyone who
cares for plants of interest should certainly have
this useful decorative shrub. Of the many ever-
greens used during the winter, none can equal
Danaea Laurus, with its graceful and glossy shoots.
It is not difficult to grow, and when once established
one can freely cut away the elegant shoots. The
plant is closely allied to the Butcher's Broom
(Ruscus aculeatus), being sometimes known as
Ruscus racemosus ; but it is more free and graceful
in habit, and better in the rich glossy colour of
the leaves and shoots, which have the grace of
the airy Willow with the glossy green of the
Camellia.
A Beautiful but Neglected Annual.— Amebi a
cornuta is one of the most interesting annuals
for the summer, and yet it is seldom seen. Its
curious and yet beautififl flowers are rich
yellow, marked with large, heart-shaped, black
spots from the base to the tips of the petals,
which on the second day turn to a deep maroon
and finally disappear with age, leaving the flowers
a pure yellow. It is of branching habit, from
a foot to ij feet high, and blooms with imusual
freedom all the summer. It is very valuable
for cutting, as the flowers retain their freshness
for some time in water. Seeds should be sown now
and placed in a little warmth ; these will make
good plants for putting out at the end of April or
early in May.
White-Stemmed Brambles. — The value of
white-stemmed Brambles for winter effect is very
apparent at Clandon Park, Surrey, where Rubus
biflorus is planted in large beds by the lakeside.
In the autumn the canes were heavily manured,
and the results have fully justified the operation.
R. biflorus, however, will in the course of time
be quite outrivalled by the new and graceful
species R. giraldianus, from China. The latter
sends up strong canes 6 feet or 7 feet in height,
which bend over and droop to the ground. As
the canes are white throughout their entire length,
each plant forms a most attractive subject. R.
giraldianus may be quickly increased either by
seed or by layering.
More Money for Wisley.— At the annual general
meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society, to
be held on Tuesday next at 3 p.m., the following
resolution will be proposed and seconded : " The
Council of the society be requested to create a
special trust fmid to carry on and augment the
society's work at Wisley, and this meeting would
approve of a part of the present surplus funds
of the society being allocated to that purpose."
All sorts of rumours are afloat as to the exact
meaning of this rather nebulous resolution, and
we presume details of the suggested augmentation
of the society's work at Wisley will be forthcoming
at the meeting.
66
THE GARDEN.
[February 7. 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
(The Editor is not responsible for tlie opinioits
expressed by correspondents.)
The History of White Heather.—" R. O. "
asks, on page 42 of January 24 issue, whether
tliere is any reference in any well-known book
as to how white Heather came to be regarded
as a symbol of good fortune and luck. The
Rev. Hilderic Friend, F.L.S., in his " Flowers
and Flower Lore," page 279, says : ". . . and
even the Heather itself ... is without any
definite story or tradition." From the above I
take it that the white Heather is included. —
<',. C. DUDDRIDGE.
Scarcity ol Chrysanthemum Cuttings. —
" Avon " refers, on page 31, issue January 17,
to the scarcity of cuttings last year, but this
peculiarity is noticeable in some varieties this
season also, even among those that flower early.
.\ market-grower rec ently showed me some
hundreds of stools of
Dorothy Ashley, a beau-
tiful pink of recent intro-
duction ; but not a single
cutting was visible, nor
were there any signs of
sucker growths, yet the
stock last season pro-
duced an abundance of
cuttings. Why ?— T. W.
Mistletoe Peculiarity.
— I have a plant of
JMistletoe 30 inches m
diameter on an Apple
tree, which is the result
of ten years' growth and
has never yet borne a
berrj'. The growth is
robust, of an intense
bronzy green tint of
colour. Why does it not
fruit, I should like to
know ? — S. [It is pro-
bable that the plant in
question bears male
flowers only. The Mis-
tletoe is peculiar in that
it is sometimes unisexual
and at other times bi-
sexual. Our correspon-
dent's best plan is to sow
seed on the Apple tree
next month in the hope
of securing a berry-bearing plant. Seed may be
sown by cutting a notch in the bark on the under
side of a branch, and carefully inserting the seed
therein. — Ed.J
Rose Climbing Mme. Melanie Soupert. — it
happens su rarely tliat the Rose-grower on the
modest scale can add anything to Mr. H. E.
Molyneux's descriptions of the newer Roses that,
when the opportunity occurs, I feel that it can
on no account be missed. In describing Burrell's
climbing form of Mme. Melanie Soupert on page 47,
issue January 24, he tells us how much he
is looking forward to seeing the flowers in the
coming season. I can assure him, good florist
as he is, that he will have some difficulty in finding
any fault with them. Somehow Mme. Melanie
Soupert's charms disarm all criticism, yet many of
us must at times have longed for blooms with
ii few more of the exquisite shell-like petals. This
the climbing form provides us with, making Mme.
.Melanie Soupert the finest all-round exhibition and
decorative Rose I know of. My plant has had some-
what hard fare for the last two seasons — an eastern
exposure, and a mass of clay and a gravel drive
to push its roots into. Yet even under these
conditions its shoots are rioting far out of reach
up the wall against which it was planted, and
of all the blooms I have seen I cannot recall one
with a single fault. — R. H. Biffen, Cambridge.
Primula pulverulenta Mrs. R. V. Berkeley.—
I was interested to see Dr. JIacwatt's note, page 42,
issue January 24, on this beautiful variety
of an extremely popular Primula, and can bear
out his statement in regard to it failing to produce
seed when fertilised with its own pollen. When
it is pollinated with the type, seed is often formed,
and a certain percentage come the variety in
question, but the majority are P. pulverulenta.
Two years or so ago, varieties, almost if not identical,
appeared in various places among seedlings of
P. pulverulenta, the seed being saved from plants
cultivated in this countrv. Messrs. Barr and Sons
A BUVVi, OF ROSE CLIMBING MME. MELANIE SOUPLRT GROWN BY PROFESSOR BIFFEN.
offer seed of P. p. Mrs. R. V. Berkeley in their
catalogue this year, where it is described as " a
charming new hybrid, differing from P. pulveru-
lenta in having pretty creamy white flowers
with orange eye." It is hardly correct to state
that it is of hybrid origin, and no mention is made
of it coming true from seed or otherwise. I
crossed P. p. Mrs. R. V. Berkeley with P. cock-
bumiana, and seed was only produced in a small
quantity ; but the reverse way gave ample seed.
When both crosses flowered, many were typical
P. Unique, while 30 per cent, or so were lighter
in colour and no advance upon other Primulas
in commerce. P. Unique crossed with P. p. Mrs.
R. V. Berkeley gave forms of P. Excelsior, but
none approached the scarlet P. Excelsior, which
gained an award of merit from the Royal Horti-
cultural Society last year. — ^T. W. Briscoe.
Rose Backfisch. — On page 56 of your issue of
January 31, in referring to a pretty little Pompon
Rose sent out by Peter Lambert of Trier that
had been christened with the apparently "cruel"
name of Backfisch, I hinted there might be .1
reason for the label, and asked that the word might
be translated for me. My old German dictionary
of schoolday use had failed me, " Baked Fish "
or " Fried Fish " not seeming exactly a fitting
Rose title ! I have not had long to wait. Several
post-cards and two letters have already reached
me and give me the desired information, in the
form of various translations of Backfisch,
and which I now hand on for the benefit of those
of your readers who may have been, equally
with myself, in the dark ; and I take this oppor-
tunity of thanking those of my correspondents
through your columns who did not give mc
sufiicient data to do so personally. They
all agree that Backfisch is a word that in
this case has not been used in its literal
sense ; in other words. Backfisch would appear
to be a slang expression. One post-card,
with no other address than the London
post-mark, reads a s
follows: Backfisch^
a female nut." .\
second says: " Backfisch
is used as denoting a
yomig girl not yet
' out,' and the name
was probably given to
the Rose before it was
' introduced ' ! " A third
says: " I think you
will find it means a
half-grown schoolgirl, a
boarding-school or bread-
and-butter miss." But
the fourth correspon-
dent puts the matter
so well and writes such
a charmmg letter that
I should like to quote
his letter in full, but
my modesty forbids,
and 1 will only give
you that portion deal-
ing with Backfisch.
It was addressed to
■' H. E. M., In a Hamp-
shire Garden, Southamp-
ton " : "Backfisch,
literally brook fish, is
synonymous with
another very modem
word, ' flapper," both
ten years ago, but
girl in her teens — in
of ' sweet seventeen.'
' Brook fish ' may stand for ' salmon pink.'
or something that has not yet ventured into
deeper waters, or a tender plant. Hideous !
but in these slangy days applicable in modem
minds to the sweet little flower you describe."
The moral of the above is obvious. One
occasionally reads diatribes (I am not sure
I have not been guilty of writing one or
two myself) against the presumed ridiculous
labelling of Roses and other plants with names
(in other languages than our own) the meaning
of which may not be quite clear to us.
I admit I was nearly letting myself go over
Backfisch — prudence and a sufficient knowledge
of the raiser, Herr Peter Lambert, saved mc ;
but my narrow escape in this case may
very well be a lesson to others besides
myself. — Herbert E. Molyneu.x.
unknown, I imagine,
used to describe the
my youth we spoke
February 7, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
67
Rose Mme. Edouard Herriot.— I was pleased
to see the recent coloured plate of this Rose,
which was certainly very good. I am looking
forward to seeing it in flower in the open, for I
question whether the flowers exhibited were in
true form, being grown under glass. Moreover,
I do not believe we shall see what Mme. Edouard
Herriot can do until we have home-budded stocks,
■ .uid particularly on the Briar. Past experience
with French Roses, and particularly the pemeti-
ouas, convinces me that we do not see them in
form until two seasons have elapsed. — T. W.
A Beautiful Winter Heath.— Erica carnea
prjecox rubra is one of the best of the newer
varieties of E. carnea which have been selected
by Mr. Richard Potter and sent out by Messrs.
Backhouse of York. It comes early into flower,
and affords us a number of sprays. Its name of
praecox is quite borne out by its early flowering.
It is a very good variety, the flowers being of a
rich rose carmine, with the tips of a good, deep
madder brown. When these fine Heaths become
a little cheaper they will be of great value. Those
of us who have a full set of the twelve varieties
distributed appreciate the welcome bits of colour
they give in earliest spring or even in late \vinter. —
S. Arnott.
Mealy Bug on Vines. — It may interest some of
your readers to know how I cleared a vinery of
mealy bug. First of all, the Vines were pruned,
then the cut surfaces painted with patent knotting ;
next, the rough bark was taken off very carefully,
special care being taken round the spurs. Then
the glass and woodwork had a good scrubbing
and were washed >'own with the hose ; next,
the ironwork was p. iuted with paraffin, taking
care not to get it on the Vines. The walls were
then thoroughly whitewashed and, lastly, the
Vines painted, taking care not to miss the least
portion and stoppmg up every little hole, but taking
care of the buds. The paint was made as follows :
I got some smooth clay and made it thoroughly
dry, then worked it into a fine powder. I pro-
cured a pint of coal-tar, put it into a galvanised
bucket, then poured on a gallon of boiling
water, added a wineglassful of paraffin, and well
stirred. I then added the powdered clay a little
at a time, and kept it stirred till of the consistency
of thick cream, and, when cold, painted the Vines
as before stated. I also went carefully over the
spurs on bright days, and found one or two msects ;
but now the Vines are thoroughly free, and I am
well rewarded for the trouble that the work
entailed.— S. J. S.
Rose Aviateur Bleriot.- Mr. H. E. Molyneux,
in referring to this climber on page 35, issue
January 17, mentions that it is not a very
strong grower vrith him. 1 almost wish I could
say the same, for I planted a young plant three
seasons back against a fence with the idea of tymg
the growths to a pole. As my ramblers are but
3 feet 6 inches apart, the problem with me is how
to deal with the octopus-like growths of Aviateur
Bleriot. Not only does it send up many great
basal growths, but these break at all points, the
laterals runnmg out in all directions 4 feet to 6 feet.
During last autumn I cut away many of these
side growths, and have since removed many thin
basal growths ; but as to cutting out old flowermg
wood, it cannot be done, for such wood is bristling
with new autumn-made growths, some shoots
ruiming up 12 feet, others sprawling over into
my neighbour's garden and making his path
almost impassable. Aviateur Bleriot is the
most vicious wichuraiajia I have ever had to deal
with, owing to its habit of making so many laterals.
For general vigour nothing I grow approaches it,
except American Pillar and Minnehaha, and
as both of these are on a wall, I can deal with them.
As Mr. Molyneux states, Aviateur Bl&riot has
beautiful lasting foUage, better than nine-tenths
of the wichuraianas, but it does not flower in the
same way as the Dorothy Perkuis type, and it
is rather early. The colour in the bud is fine,
but, like all yellow ramblers, it becomes nearly
white in due course. From what I have seen of
Shower of Gold at the shows, Aviateur B16riot
is the same. — T. A.
Thatched Roofs. — With regard to the use of
thatched roofs for country houses and out-
buildings (see The Garden for January 3, page 1,
and January 17, page 31), there cannot be two
opinions from an esthetic point of view. From
the window of the room in which I am writing
I have only to turn my head slightly to look upon
two very old cottages, some 200 yards or more
distant, with projecting porches covered with
climbing plants and big front gardens. The
roofs of these cottages are of real old brown thatch,
which has apparently been untouched for a number
of years. I can imagine the change that would
be effected by the removal of the thatch and the
substitution of slates. At the same time, one
cannot help thinking what a home this ancient
thatch offers for dust, dirt and vermin.
If a new form of roofing is generally to be
adopted, it would seem to be in the direction
of tiles, the glaring redness of which can be con-
siderably toned down by boiling them in oil before
fixing, an operation, in my memory, that was
performed with a certain amount of success some
years back on a house erected at Kew. With
regard to Mr. Kenna way's appeal for the preserva-
tion of thatched roofs, the Devon and Exeter
Gazette, commenting upon it, says : "On the
whole, the object of the appeal — securing pictur-
esqueness — has met with sympathy, but several
practical objections have been raised," which
are set forward in the following extract from
the Sanitary Record and Municipal Engineering :
" We wish," it says, " it were possible for us to
support the appeal, but we are regretfully obliged
to admit that the objections against the use of
this material greatly outweigh the advantages
claimed for it, for thatch is, on sanitary grounds,
a material which not only harbours vermin, but
when infectious disease occurs in houses covered
with it, efficient disinfection is practically im-
possible. Moreover, it is so highly combustible
and incapable of being protected against fire that
new buildings should not be covered with it.
The disastrous fire at Swavesey, in Cambridge-
shire, which occurred during the past year, and
destroyed one-half of the cottages in the village
which were covered with thatch, while those
covered with incombustible material escaped, is
too striking a lesson to be disregarded. We venture
to hope, however, that officers of District Councils
will not hasten to condemn these existing thatched
cottages." — John R. Jackson, Lympstone, Devon.
SEASONABLE NOTES ON
AURICULAS.
FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
February 9.— United Horticultural Benefit and
Provident Society's. Committee Meeting.
February 10.— Royal Horticultural Society's
Show and Annual Meeting.
February 12.— Manchester and North of England
Orchid Society's Meeting.
February 13. — Beckenham Horticultural
Society's Meeting.
DURING the month of February the
^ general routine wiU depend entirely
I upon the weather. If it is cold and
f frosty, little can be done ; but
should it keep open and mild, the
plants will be very active at the
roots, and in consequence must be given more
water. We should now aim to keep them just
moist, and try to secure that happy medium
which is easily obtained by every observant
cultivator. It is difficult to describe this con-
dition, but the best advice I can give an amateur
is : If in doubt about watering a plant, let it
wait until the next day appointed for this purpose.
With Auriculas it is not necessary to look through
the plants daily at this period of the year.
Offsets. — Towards the end of the month the
collection should be examined, and all offsets
large enough for removal may be taken off.
Some will be quite strong and possess a fair
quantity of roots. These can be potted in 3-inch
pots, using as a rooting medium good fibrous
loam three parts, leaf-mould one part, and a
moderate sprinkling of sharp sand. The pots
usually selected are known as " long thumbs," and
the drainage may either be broken brick rubble
or ordinary potsherds, over which is placed a
thm layer of loam fibre. These offsets, if given
a larger receptacle later on, will make nice
healthy plants for' next season. Some of the
smaller offsets which have no roots should be
treated as cuttings by placing several round
the side of a pot, and if kept close for a few weeks
in a hand-light or frame, they will soon form
roots, when they may be potted off in a similar
mixture to that named above.
The Uselessness of Top-Dressing.— At one
time it was the rule to remove about an inch
or so of the top soil from aroimd the old plants
and replace it with a somewhat rich compost.
I have found that this is superfluous, for no differ-
ence could be detected in plants which were top-
dressed and those that were left alone. It is,
however, advisable to look over all plants that
were repotted last May or June, and prick over
the surface soil with a pointed stick. Where
any of the compost has been washed away or
removed with the offsets, it should be replaced.
Cleanliness, Ventilation and Light.— The
pots may be scrubbed and new labels written
where necessary, while the plants will benefit
if given plenty of ventilation ; but cold, cutting,
frosty winds must be avoided. Light is most
essential at this season, and where plants are
grown near large manufacturing towns and fogs
are frequent, the outside glass should be washed
and kept as clean as possible.
Repotting Offsets. — A few offsets will have
been removed about last August, particularly from
choice varieties, and if proper attention has been
given they will now require a larger receptacle.
When repotting, see that the woolly aphis is
destroyed, and make the compost fairly firm.
Seedlings. — In most collections a few seedlings
are raised, and these should be pricked off directly
they have made two or three tiny leaves. Boxes
or pans are best for them in the early stages,
a distance of an inch or so from plant to plant
being ample ; but, when the foliage meets, they
ought to be given separate pots. The seed-pans
should not be thrown away as other seedlings
will appear later on. T. W. Briscoe.
■^8
THE GARDEN.
[February 7, 1914.
TRANSPLANTING LARGE
TREES AND SHRUBS.
A FEW weeks' work with a transplanting
machine when making a new garden,
or when carrying out alterations in
i existing pleasure grounds, moving
^ large trees and shrubs, will produce
an effect for which it would be neces-
sary to wait fifteen or twenty years were the moving
done by hand, and only plants of moderate size
slower in growth than deciduous trees. There will
not be sufficient work for one or more of these
machines in a garden of fair dimensions ; but when
new work or alterations on a considerable scale
are contemplated, it is worth while calling in the
help of a firm who use these machines, or hiring
the machines from them for a few weeks.
Having decided on the size of the ball of soil
necessarj' to transplant a certain specimen satis-
factorily, the ground must be marked out and a
trench i foot wide dug all round the ball. Square
balls with rounded corners are the easiest to
manipulate with .a machine.
THE FIG AND ITS
VATION.
CULTI-
F
ROM time immemorial the Fig has been
considered a fruit worthy of notice
and cultivation. It is a native ot
Mediterranean regions, and flourishes
equally well in Southern Europe,
Northern Africa and Western .Asia.
Records show that this valuable fruit was introduced
into England from Italy early in the sixteenth
century by Cardinal Pole and planted in the grounds
The depth to dig down will ' of Lambeth Palace, where possibly its descendants
depend on the size of the speci- are still extant. This fruit cannot be said to
men and the quantity of roots, ! actually flourish in England generally, although
varying from r J feet to 3 feet I '" certain places on the South Coast there are
or slightly more. To hold the I instances of standard Fig trees bearing good
soil together, a piece of canvas ! supplies of fruit. It has been found necessary,
should be bound round the ball ' therefore, to protect trees growmg out of doors
further North, and away from the soothing influence
of sea breezes, from the ravages of frost and cold,
so they may be regarded as wall fruit.
Propagation. — This may be carried out in
several ways, but the methods most generally used
are layering, making cuttings or using suckers. In the
case of the last mentioned, the wood is sometimes
very soft, so it cannot be so highly recommended
as either of the others. For cuttings, short-jointed,
well-ripened wood should be used and placed m a
cold frame free from frost until early spring, when
mens are transplanted, in digging they may be introduced into a brisk heat. Roots will
round the ball the plant will lose soon be forthcoming, and the usual treatment will
some roots, so to balance this a then suffice. The practice of layering is convenient,
number of the branches and for quite a large branch may be so treated, and there-
twigs should be cut out. Make fore a good-sized tree obtained with little trouble.
.[ basin with soil round each ' The other means of increase are by seeds, root-
specimen as soon as it is planted, cuttings and by grafting, but they are little used,
and water
with thick cord and held in posi-
tion by a few narrow boards,
which can be seen placed in
position round the balls of the
plants illustrated. In the pro-
cess of moving, any roots
damaged must be cut off clean.
If larger than a pencil, the cut
surface should be tarred over to
prevent fungus starting decay.
However [carefully large speci-
I. — AN EVERGREEN SHRUB WITH ROOTS AND SOIL BOUND
UP READY FOR TRANSPLANTING.
used. Tall deciduous trcts — Poplars, for instance —
can be moved successfully without having soil
adhering to the roots ; but with evergreens in
particular there should be good balls of soil
transferred with them to their new positions.
Failing a transplantmg machine, rollers, planks and
a low, four-wheeled trolley may be utilised, the
difference being that the work takes longer with
plants of considerable size, the balls of soil are
generally more shaken about in hauling, and it is
not so easy to place the plant upright in the centre
of the new hole prepared for it.
Three sizes of transplanting machines are useful
tor moving balls of soil weighing from five hundred-
weight to eight or ten tons. A small machine
manipulated by five or seven men, according to
the weight of the ball, will move from a quarter
to three-quarters of a ton. A machine of moderate
dimensions will carry up to one and a-half tons,
and requires seven to eleven men to work it. The
large machine will carry balls of soil up to ten tons.
The Evergreen Oak shown in Fig. 3 weighs about
eight tons. The value of behig able to successfully
transplant large specimens thirty or more years
old, such as this, will be at once recognised. The
greatest value of these machines is, of course,
with evergreens, as these, taken as a whole, are
thoro u g hly,
unless the
weather
is frosty.
Fig. r shows
a bushy ever-
green tied up
and prepared
ready to lift
with a transplanting machine.
The wheels stand on the planks
placed in position at the sides.
The two large ropes are seen
placed round the two lifting
planks under the ball, the four
ends being fastened round rollers
on the machine. Fig. 2 is a
large tree ready for moving on
planks and rollers. The wooden
rollers run on the two stout
planks placed on the ground.
One side of the ball is seen
lifted with a jack, ready to
place the rollers underneath tlie
ball. The tree is hauled by men
with a pulley up the planks on
to a low trolley, or, if the dis-
tance is short, the specimen may
be rolled on planks the whole
way. Fig. 3 shows an Evergreen'
Oak weighing about eight tons,
slung on one of Barron's trans-
planting machines, ready for the
horses to draw to a new station.
Even larger trees may be trans-
planted in tliis way. A- O.
-A LARGE TREE READY tOK MOVING BY MEANS Ol"
PLANKS AND ROLLERS.
February 7, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
69
Cultivation. — With regard to outdoor treatment,
the wall chosen for the plants should have, if possible,
a southern or south-western aspect, but they
may also be grown in an eastern position. The
■essential factor in the preparation of the soil is
perfectly drainage. In preparing quarters for fresli
trees, the condition of the subsoil should be
ascertained, and if cold -and retentive, plenty of
broken bricks and old mortar rubble should be
introduced at the bottom of the trench, which
need only be 30 inches deep. In order to check
too rampant a growth, it will be found best to mi.x
•ordinary garden soil with new loam, making the
whole firm as the work proceeds, and continuing
to use a goodly share of lime rubble in the compost.
A brick partition should be built round the trench
at a distance of about two feet from the wall,
to assist in preventing the roots from growing too
treely. In cold districts the Fig is decidedly better
for some protection during the most severe weather.
The branches need only be covered with mats
just nailed over them during very sharp frosts,
but the roots must be covered during the whole
■if the cold season with a liberal dressing of half-
decayed manure, and this should be covered with
slates when heavy rains are frequent, as everything
■depends upon keeping the roots warm and fairly dry.
Successful under-glass culture is comparatively
■easy of attainment, provided one or two practical
points are kept in view, (a) The root-run must be
restricted and the compost should be only
moderately rich to begin with ; (6) the border
must be made quite firm and (c) the drainage
must at all times be in perfect condition. Excellent
results may be obtained also from growing in pots
■and tubs.
Pruning. — For outdoor culture this chiefly
consists in cutting away right from the base weak
and xmnecessary wood. While an efiort should be
made to retain the main branches, as much good
wood as possible should be encouraged yearly from
the base, and this should be allowed to grow
unchecked throughout the season. The system
adopted imder glass must necessarily be more
orthodox. Assuming the bouse to be liberally
■covered with branches, the yoimg wood must
be pinched at the fourth or fifth leaf, and all tm-
necessary shoots pulled off, as overcrowding of
the wood is fatal to good Fig culture.
Watering must always be carried out most
judiciously, and luiless the grower is sure that
his border (or other receptacle) is efficiently
drained, it will be foimd safer to apply too little
rather than too much, especially during the early
stages of growth.
Pests. — ^The most troublesome are red spider
and mealy bug. A free use of the sjfringe will
do much to keep the former in check, but for
mealy bug it is best to dress the trees while m a
dormant state with some approved insecticide.
Varieties. — For outdoor culture the best is
Brown Turkey, while White Marseilles and
Angelique also do well. (The latter should have
a south wall.) For growing under glass, Brown
Turkey is difficult to beat and should be included
in every collection. Others to \)e noted are White
Marseilles, .Angeliqu? (very early forcer), Black
Ischia (early), Monaco Bianco (midseason), Col-
■di-Signora Bianca, Agen (late), and Negro Largo
(suitable for tubs or pots).
Planting may be carried out under glass any
time between October and March ; out of doors,
early in the autumn or during February or March.
H. Turner.
Serlby Hall Gardens, Bawtry, Yorks.
SELECTION OF VEGETABLE
SEEDS.
1 SHOULD like to supplement the excellent
selection of varieties given by Mr. Beckett
on page 15, January 3 issue. Now that
there are so many varieties to choose from
in almost all sections, it is bewildering to
the inexperienced to select the best. Some
growers for exhibition may say all varieties suit-
able for that purpose are also the best for daily
use. That may be quite correct under ordinary
treatment, but when grown under exhibition
methods the conditions are altered.
Broad Beans. — Longpod for general growth
and Mammoth for exhibition are all that is required.
French or Kidney Beans. — For forcing early
in pots or pits Sutton's Forcing is a rapid-growing
Bean, and Osborne's is still a desirable variety,
with Ne Plus Ultra. For summer growth in the
I prefer a smaller type like Scrynigcr's Gianl and
Imported, which give abundance of hard, button-
like sprouts, so much more preferable for table
than the Cabbage-like article often favoured nn
the show table.
Borecole or Kale has become an important
vegetable, adding variety and giving huge crops.
Of the large, curly type Sutton's Ai is desirable,
but for a constant supply through the winter
and early spring, when green vegetables are not
over-abundant, I prefer the true Labrador Kale.
Cauliflowers are an important crop. For
sowing indoors Early Forcing and Snowball are
reliable, with Autumn Giant as the best for
ordinary summ'^r cultivation.
Cabbage. — For an early supply Early Rainham,
Sutton's Earliest and Little Gem, with Wheeler's
Imperial and Enfield Market for a late supply.
If more variety is required, Sutton's April and
Flower of Spring are excellent for August sowing,
tn come in as a succession between the earliest
-AN EVERGREEN' OAK, WrEIGHING .\BOUT EIGHT TONS, SLUNG ON A LARGE
MACHINE READY FOR TRANSIT.
open Superlative and Masterpiece are both good
sorts of a larger type. Climbing French Beans are
useful, as they continue to bear for a long time
and may be employed to blot out an unsightly
object, as they grow 6 feet high. Earliest of All
and Epicure are desirable sorts.
Runner Beans can now, with careful culti-
vation, be had in July, and continue right up to
the end of October. Ai, Hackwood Park and
Best of .AH are good sorts in addition to that
mentioned by Mr. Beckett.
Broccoli. — Carter's Autumn for an early supply,
followed by Self- protecting, Leamington, Knight's
Protecting and Late Queen for the latest, are
ample, with the addition of Purple Sprouting,
which gives added variety and lasts a considerable
time without running to seed.
Brussels Sprouts are such an important winter
vegetable that the best should be obtained. Where
larger sprouts are required for exhibition. Match-
less and Exhibition are superior. For home use
and late. Savoy Earliest of All comes in very
quickly, almost too much so. Reliance and
Dwarf Green Curled are suitable for small gardens.
Carrots are indispensable. Champion Scarlet
Horn and Early Gem for sowing in frames, with
Scarlet Intermediate for larger outdoor growth,
or for exhibition early or late. Where extra heavy
crops are required, combining them with a supply
for cattle as well as for the kitchen. Long Red
Surrey should be grown.
Celery. — Sulham Prize Pink and Superb White
.ire two desirable varieties for ordinary cultivation.
Cucumbers are well represented by a good form
of Telegraph for ordinarv use. or Every Day or
Delicacy for exhibition.
Leeks. — The best variety for exhibition is
Improved Lyon. If, however. Leeks are only
required in an ordinarv wav, Musselburgh is
desirable.
Vegetable Marrows. — Tender and True of the
bush class type is good, and so is Long White.
70
THE GARDEN.
[February 7, 1914.
Table Dainty in the coloured section is excellent.
Pen-y-byd is very productive, with almost
globular fruit, creamy white in colour. This
variety requires but little space, therefore is
valuable.
Onions. — For exhibition in Jtme and July
White Leviathan is desirable. For August and
onwards Ailsa Craig is superior to any other.
For home use Giant Rocca matures early. For
autumn, winter and spring Maincrop is a superior
variety. For pickling, if anything is wanted
beyond the small bulbs of the last named. Improved
Queen and Small Paris Silver Skin should be
chosen.
Tomatoes. — The best red variety for exhibition
IS Perfection, and for general use out of doors
Up to Date is decidedly good. Winter Beauty is
a good winter-fruiting variety. In yellow-skinned
sorts Golden Nugget, Golden Perfection, and for
the open wall Carter's Golden Sunrise and Green-
gage are desirable.
Potatoes. — For early use Veitch's Early Ashleaf,
Sharpe's Victor, Duke of York and Sir John
variety, produces large Peas of excellent flavour,
and is almost immune from mildew.
Lettuce. — Of Cos varieties for summer use
Mammoth White, Superb White and Dwarf
Perfection are good. For winter growth Black-
seeded Bath, Champion Brown and Winter White
are to be depended upon for a constant supply.
Of Cabbage varieties Favourite, Commodore
Nutt, Heartwell and Ideal, with Golden Ball
if more variety is required, are all desirable.
Mar^'el, All the Year Round and Hammer-
smith Hardy Green are good for autumn
sowing.
Swanmore Park, Hampshire. E. Molvnev.x.
A BEAUTIFUL KNOTWEED FOR THE
ROCK GARDEN.
Polygonum a f f i n e .
The genus Polygonum is a most variable one.
Some of the species are imposing giants, like
P. baldschuanicum, the beautiful rampant climlier
POLYGONUM AFFINE IN THE WISLEY ROCK GARDEN.
Llewelyn are desirable as second earlies. Webb's
New Guardian is a reliable cropper, and so are
Sutton's Satisfaction and Abundance. For late
use Dalhousie is reliable. Of newer sorts, several
of the pedigree seedlings introduced by Messrs.
Sutton are desirable. As a second early I can
recommend Stirling Castle as an extraordinary
cropper of capital quality, and Edinburgh
Castle, Balmoral Castle and Dover Castle as a
succession.
Peas. — When three seed funis catalogue 151,
100 and 89 varieties, there is small wonder it
the inexperienced person finds a difficulty in making
a selection. For early sowing Early Giant,
Pioneer, Early Moni, The Pilot and Edwin Beckett.
For general use as second earlies Masterpiece,
Webb's New Kaiser and Alderman are difficult
to beat. For the latest supplies The Gladstone,
Ne Plus Ultra, Latest of All and Goldfinder are
not excelled. The latter, although a short-podded
from Bokhara, while others are of low trailing
habit, spreading naturally over rocks and boulders.
It is to the latter group that P. aiiine belongs.
It does not attain more than 6 inches in height,
and its spreading mass of deep green fohage
makes it a capital plant foi" clothing rocks, while
it may also be used with charming effect as a
substitute for the Periwinkle to cover banks
or low tree stumps. Moreover, it is very
free - flowering, for in late summer it pro-
duces a wealth of rosy crimson flower-spikes.
In the accompanying illustration Polygonum
affine is shown growing with remarkable free-
dom in the Royal Horticultural Society's new
rock garden at Wisley. It is a native of the
Himalayas, and so hardy is it in constitution
that, once established in a garden, no fears need
be entertained about its future except that it will
need to be kept within hounds, lor it is apt to
spread too readily.
HINTS ON GROWING
ANNUAL FLOWERS.
To many readers of The Garden the
lengthening days will bring serious
thoughts of preparation for future
floral display. In the majority of
gardens, no matter the size, annuals
are now deservedly grown. They serve
many useful purposes, as, for instance, in a new
garden to which one may have recently removed, a
quite luxuriant and beautiful display can be secured
even the first season ; or they are serviceable
in filling gaps during the growth of more permanent
inhabitants. But, however used, their value is
undoubtedly great. According to taste, some
may prefer masses or beds of annuals, while others
like to scatter them as specimen plants among
their border perennials. Both methods are good,
the former in the larger and the latter in smaller
gardens ; or the two plans may be judiciousK-
employed, and fine results accrue. It may be
that some rather under-estimate the
true value of annuals owing to
their small cost, and treat them
accordingly, while to others this is
an important advantage. Many of
our most glorious annuals are, how-
ever, quite cheap, and it is hoped
that any %vho read these lines and
who have not done so will try a
few of the varieties which will be
enumerated.
Preparing the Soil.— In gardens
where digging has not been com-
pleted, this should be pushed
forward in all open weather, espe-
cially on heavy land. Whether
light or heavy, however, expenditure
of the labour incidental to " double
digging" will be amply repaid
in the quality of the blooms and
the length of their flowering. If
clayey, the soil should have a
liberal supply of horse-manure well
mixed in — country road sweep-
ings are useful — and the top left
in rough ridges for the frost to
penetrate. Light soils can be dug
in February and March, and some
cow or pig manure well incor-
porated. A dusting of old soot
and bone - meal put on in spring
will be found beneficial on all
soils. An exception to this general application
of manure occurs in the case of Nastifrtiunis,
which make much leaf growth in rich soil at
the expense of flowers.
Selection of Varieties. — After the preparation
of the ground comes the consideration of varieties,
and as the amateur is apt to be at a loss when
given a multitude of names, in the following
selection will be fomid some of the finest hardy
kinds of proved merit, easily grown ajid floriferous :
Sweet Peas are best grown by themselves. Shirley
Poppies are good either massed or dotted about.
Thinned to 12 inches apart and each plant staked,
they do well almost anywhere, and will be found to
be worth a little care. To make the cut flowers last,
gather them when opening in the early morning,
place the stalks immediately in half an inch of
boiling water for two minutes, then transfer them to
cold water. They will then keep well for some days.
Nigella dnmascena Miss Jekyll, Coreopsis tinctoria.
February 7, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
71
Sweet Sultaii, Godetias Lady Albemarle and
Duchess of Albany, Clarkia Salmon Queen and
Chrysanthemum coronarium tricolor. For mixing
in bunches : Gypsophila elegans grandiflora alba
and Eragrostis elegans (Love Grass). For climbing
purposes : TropaDolum canariense (Canary Creeper)
or T. lobbianum and Convolvulus major (Morning
Glory). For edging : Virginian Stock, Candytuft
and Sweet Alyssum. For perfume : Matthiola bi-
comis (Night-scented Stock) ; sow pinches of seed in
out-of-the-way comers at intervals during the
season. The foregoing can all be openlj' sown,
and, except the varieties named for special uses,
are of medium height. In a future article some of
the best half-hardy annuals will
claim attention. B. W. Lewis.
varieties. Shallow boxes may be used. Put in a
thin layer of well-rotted manure, then a good
compost surfaced with sand. Insert the cut-
tings 2 inches apart, water, and shade from
bright sunshine. The cuttings will form
roots in about twenty days if the boxes are
placed just above the hot-water pipes, and
in a month if accommodated in a cool
frame. .\von.
of repotting, that is, usually, in December, or by
young cuttings taken in the spring and inserted
in sand in a warm propagating-case.
THE HERBACEOUS OR
MIXED BORDER.
GANARINA CAMPANULATA.
Although seldom seen in cultivation, Canarina
campanulata is a beautiful greenhouse plant ' colour
NOTES ON CHRY-
SANTHEMUMS.
IT is many years since the
blooms of these plants
were as scarce, and conse-
quently as much appre-
ciated, as they were dur-
ing the Christmas season.
Owing to the mild weather,
which brought on other kinds
of flowers very quickly as well
as some of the late-flowering
Chrysanthemums, and then the
spell of severe weather abroad,
blooms were at a premium. Such
a condition may not obtam again
for many years ; but whether
it does or not, cultivators will
be wise if they include in their
collections good batches of late-
flowering varieties. Amateur
cultivators should
Propagate the Main Batch of
Cuttings Now. — Much use can be
made of the garden frame, in which
the young plants will do nicely.
Being practically hardy, a few-
mats will protect them from
frosts. Plants intended for exhibi-
tion purposes should be propagated
singly in small pots, but all others
will do well if several cuttings are
inserted in a 3-inch pot. If this
is done, valuable space at this
season will be saved.
Potting Rooted Cuttings.— It is
very rare indeed that all the cut-
tings inserted at the same time
will be ready for potting on the
same date. Some are stronger-
growing varieties than others, and
the cuttings of these, if not too
sappy, will form roots and be ready for
potting about a week before the weaker-growing
sorts. Every young plant must possess a
nice lot of roots ; it is then fit to repot. If
left too long in the small pot it becomes
stunted and the stem hardens unduly. It
is owing to such a check that one often finds
plants with thin stems ' about 6 inches above
the pot and thicker higher up. Keep all young
plants growing steadily and well up to the light ;
if grown in a greenhouse, place them on shelves.
Rooting Border Varieties. — Early in
February put in the cuttings of the border
AN
ATTRACTIVE GREENHOUSE PLANT, CANARtNA
NATIVE OF THE CANARY ISLANDS.
of comparatively easy culture. It is named
Canarina from its habitat, being a native of the
Canary Islands, while the specific name obviously
refers to the large, bell-shaped flowers that are
rather sparsely produced from January to March.
The drooping flowers vary in colour, but are
usually of an orange hue and netted with red veins.
The plant is of a semi-climbing habit, not free
enough to train to the rafters of a greenhouse,
but it may well be trained around stakes about
two feet in height. A compost of loam, leaf-
mould and silver sand makes a suitable rooting
medium. It is increased by division at the time
HOW TO MAKE AND MAINTAIN IT.
{Concluded from page 60.)
Borders of One Colour. — Touching on one-
ardens, the authoress of a recent volume
on herbaceous plants states she
has never seen one that gave
her satisf actio! . That in general
is perhaps too sweeping a state-
ment. To a great extent it is,
however, true, and unless the
composer is absolutely sure of
the colours of the various
plants, and also their dis-
abilities as mere plants, as well
as their strong points, one-colour
schemes are assuredly specu-
lative. The least difficult, which
is equivalent to saying the
colours harmonise best, are yellows
running from cream to dark
brown, and pinks to crimson,
blues being the least satisfactory,
probably on account of the
sparsity of plants to choose
from. A very charming com-
position is efiected with yellow
and white, being careful to reject
dead whites and choosing yel-
lowish and greenish whites. The
past season I introduced deep
pink among yellow, with which
it goes very well. Another
combination of a few simple
colours that is very satisfying
is of mauve, violet and pink
to rose salmon. White and
mauve of varying depths of tone
are also worth trying. But it
must be understood that in each
and every one of these the range
of plants is limited, not so much
because the number of species
or varieties is few, but because
one must be sure of the proper
shades , and wherever or when-
ever it happens that one or more
plants of a wrong note are in-
troduced, then removal and sub-
stitution must take place as soon
as the mistake shows itself. On the
whole, for general purposes a mix-
ture of colours is to be preferred,
and more particularly for borders which are kept
gay for a long period. In these it is possible to
plant so that special colours may give a character
to the border at difierent times — the Daffodil
season, yellow ; Delphiniums, blue ; Asters,,
grey. A
Study of Floral Colours shows that strength
is essential, especially in blues. The blue of
Cornflower at a distance fades to grey, and lovely-
as is the blue of Endive and Succory, the general
effect is the same or a little less pronounced.
Therefore, to secure a telling blue effect in a large
border, that of Aconitum autumnale and Larkspur
CAMPANULATA,
72
THE GARDEN.
[February 7, 1914.
should be chosen in preference to true blues. Two
of our borders were planted with various mauve
plants last season, with lavender and single blue
Asters to give tone. Both the last named failed,
and the effect was rather dull. The new lavender
East Lothian Stock would have been better than
either of these. In pinks it hardly matters how-
faint the shade may be. They are always effective,
but to get the desired effect at a distance it is
essential to employ a deeper tone, though there
is a danger of happening on magenta. Lilium
tigriuum, splendens especially, affords a nice effect
which attracts the eye. Orange African Marigold
is also valuable, and an even deeper tone is given
by Montbretia Vulcan, one of the
best for border decoration ar.d
almost similar in colour to Hek-
nium macrocephalum cupreum.
Tithonia speciosa, if not so shy
to flower, would be an invaluable
plant, deeper in colour than any
of the above. For scarlet. we can
go to Dahlias, to Carnations,
Pentstemons, Gladioli, Gilia
coronopifolia. Antirrhinums and
Phloxes for the very best. Phloxes
are also valuable for violet and
plum colours.
In Arranging Colours it is
not unusual to employ white to
deaden the jar incident to two or
more colours clashing. It is a
simple expedient, but not to be
generally commended. It is very
much better to work out schemes
in which white need be used only
for its intrinsic value, the number
of plants available for colour
contrasts and harmonies being far
beyond the requirements of any
garden. White in conjunction
with blue of all shades is much to
be preferred to white with reds.
Cream goes very well with blue,
and a few years ago I had the
common Gardener's Garters run
through clumps of Salvia patens,
which found many admirers. In
arranging clumps for effect, one
should always endeavour to get
the best. Tiger Lilies, for ex-
ample, are sometimes arranged
with white and with red. But
the best effect is derived from
brown, which is secured by a good
strain of French Marigolds, some
of which are a dark mahogany.
Other Combinations of the
greatest value are those of plants
of one colour, but of different
habits and heights. Thus,
Ageratum mexicanum, either
■dwarf or tall, goes well with a Larkspur of
the same shade, also with Statice incana,
also mauve. I had last season dwarf Ageratum
with Aster Amellus bessarabicus, and in other
colours there are very many plants which are
equally desirable arranged together. It must be
understood that these combinations are not
simply for bedding effects, but parts of the floral
arrangement of ordinary mixed borders. Another
very charming plant not nearly so much used
as its merits deserve is Verbena venosa. Not
only is the colour — violet — good, but the habit
of the plant gives it an additional value for mixing
with other plants taller than itself or of tqua) I
height. With mauve it is very pretty, but better
with deep rose or light salmon. It is easily raised
from seeds, which sometimes lie a long time before '
they germinate, and also by means of root cuttings,
while in many parts of the country it comes .
through the majority of winters with the help
of a little surface protection.
The writers who ridicule the custom of using
the same plants or colours over and over again
in a border have never discovered how an exten-
sive border is to be well furnished by any other
means. Nor is there any need to limit that
style of planting, provided the same plants are I
give an effect wliich dwarfer plants fail to give.
Some years ago I had pure white, and the effect
was, as one gentleman said, bordering on the unreal.
Rose Queen is also a thoroughly effective variety,
and if one could be certain that singles would
come true from seed, there would be the loveliest
effects conceivable by planting in this way. I
have already mentioned
Sweet Peas as a backing for mi.xed borders,
and these in selected colours may be used in
those, with another backing trained pillar fashion
and near the back, with very good effect. Only
it is essential the colours be carefully chosen
so that they do not clash with the scheme in
general. A plant of Tropaeolum
aduncum run through the Sweet
Peas maybe permitted; the flowers
brighten up the pillars exceedingly.
In conclusion, be chary to adntit
any plant the merits of which have
to be discovered. " None but the
best," no matter how common they
are in colour and habit, must be
the motto. Have new combinations
every year to ensure the interest of
a jaded constituency ; cultivate the
soil in the most thorough manner ;
weed out undesirables as they make
themselves kno%vn for what they
are, and replace with better ; and
never be ashamed to ask advice
from those whose colour sense is
better educated than your own.
R. P. Brotherston.
Tyninghame, Pyestonkirk, N.B.
NEW ORCHIDS.
CYPRIPEDIUM DESDEMONA, A NEW AND BOLD VARIETY WITH A
BROAD DORSAL SEPAL AND WAVY WINGS.
arranged differently and with other combinations.
Some plants may be used in every little gap without
giving the least feeling of sameness. Such are
tall Antirrhinums of a colour that goes well with
the majority of the other plants, yellow, crimson
and yellow, and white for preference. Lobelia
cardinalis and Stock-flowered Larkspurs are
others ; and if one desired a pronounced blue
effect, there is nothing better than the double
blue form of the last named planted here and
there all over the border. A special colour in
Hollyhocks if run through the border is also
valuable, and more so because the tall spikes
Onk of the most striking novel-
ties at the exhibition of the
Royal Horticultural Society held
on January 27 was the new
Cypripedium named Desdemona,
shown by Messrs. Charlesworth
and Co., Hayward's Heath. One
plant only was shown, carrying
a massive flower the general
colour of which was a bronzy
green. The raisers of new Cypri-
pediums aim to procure flowers
with ever-increasing breadth in
the dorsal or hood, and this
character is very pronounced in
the variety Desdemona, which
was granted an award of merit.
In this variety the dorsal has
a white, undulated margin, while
deep chocolate markings over a
groundwork of amber and green
occupy the centre. Messrs. J.
and A. McBean of Cooks-
bridge gained the high award of a first-class
certificate for a lovely variety of Cattleya Tityus
named A. McBean. The variety was a great
improvement on the type, both in colour and
form. Mrs. Norman Cookson, Oakwood, Wylani,
gained two awards of merit for Odontiodas witli
the varieties Doris and Sibyl, these being the
pick of an excellent collection, in which the rich
colour tones of the densely marked flowers blended
in perfect harmony.
On this occasion no awards for novelties were
made by the floral committee of the Royal
Horticiiltunil Society.
February 7, 191 4.
THE GARDEN.
73
GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS
FLOWERING SHRUBS FOR SMALL GARDENS.
FOLLOWING my article which appeared
on page 6oi of November 29, 1913, issue,
I give herewith another dozen shrubs
suitable for small gardens.
Cytisus praecox. — Some people
object to this on account of the
somewhat disagreeable smell of its cream-coloured
flowers. But it blooms so freely and grows so
luxuriantly that it should be included in all
shrubberies. It blossoms in May, and can be
grown nearly anywhere and in the poorest soil.
Syringa vulgaris Souv. de Louis Spaeth is one
of the best of the garden Lilacs. It grows quite
12 feet high if planted in good, loamy soil, and
bears immense heads of reddish flowers in May.
All sucker growths must be removed from tlie base.
Syringa persica. — Everyone who
sees this' shrub wishes to plant it.
It is a miniature Lilac growing from
3 feet to 4 feet high, with an ample
system of slender branches, which
bear a profusion of elegant panicles
of fragrant, lilac-coloured flowers in
May. Plant in ordinary loamy soil
and do no regular pnming.
Sophora viciifolia is a new Chinese
shrub which grows at least 6 feet or
S feet high, producing dainty, pinnate
leaves and white, violet-shaded. Pea-
shaped flowers in June. It must be
given good, loamy soil, have no root
disturbance, and receive no regulai
pruning.
Cydonia Maulei superba is a very
rich coloured Japanese Qmnce. It
forms a bush of spreading outline
2 feet or so high. The flowers are rich
red in colour, and mature during
March and April. If planted in
ordinary good garden soil, it gives
uo trouble and requires no primuig-
Philadelphus Lemoinei erectus
may be considered one of the best ot
the dwarf Mock Oranges. When
planted in rich, loamy soil it forms
shoots 2 feet to 3 feet long in a
single season, which bear fragrant,
white flowers from almost every
leaf-axil in June. As soon as the flowers fade, all
flowering shoots must be cut away to allow young
ones to grow from near the ground.
Escallonia philippiana is the hardiest of the
Escallonias. It forms a deciduous bush about
three feet high, and bears a profusion of white,
<^tar-shaped flowers in July. Ordinary good garden
soil suits it, and no regular pruning is necessary.
BerberiS Stenophylla. — Perhaps if any one shrub
is more generally useful than another, it is this,
for it is a good evergreen and a first-rate
flowering shrub. In ordinary garden soil it grows
into a bush 6 feet to 8 feet high, with a very wide
spread, and is useful as a specimen bush and as
an occupant of the shrubbery. It stands pruning
well, and is sometimes used for hedges. No
regular pruning is necessary. It must be placed
in a permanent position while quite small. The
fragrant, golden blossoms are borne in profusion
during April and May.
Hypericum moserianum is a dwarf St. John's
Wort of hybrid origin. It grows from 12 inches to
15 inches high, and bears large, golden blossomsduring
the summer and autumn. Plant in good, loamy soil,
and cut back and thin out the branches in spring.
Robinia hispida inermis is the best form of
the Rose Acacia, an American shrub with bunches
of rose-coloured. Pea-shaped flowers which mature in
June. Planted in loamy soil it grows well and
blossoms each year. It must not be exposed to
rough winds, and does not require pruning.
Ceanothus Gloire de Versailles. — Of the
numerous kmds of summer and autumn flowering
Ceanothuses this is one of the best, for its large
panicles of blue flowers are borne continuously
from July to November if the weather continues
generally grown in a greenhouse. It is mairdy a
question of the proper preparation of the plants
several months before they arc required for the
actual work uf planting.
Suitable Plants for the Purpose. — Bougain-
villeas. Plumbagos, Palms, Fuchsias, Cannas,
Swainsonas, Fatsia japonica, Dracaena indivisa,
and Heliotrope. Small plants are not of much
use ; they must be pyramid-shaped, half standards
or standards, with main single stems for preference.
Repotting. — A compost of fibrous loam, leaf-
soil, rotted maniire and sand will do nicely. This
must be made firm when potting is being carried
out. Fuchsias should be started in the same waj'
and receive a pruning ; but when the young
shoots are an inch long the plants must be turned
CYTISUS PR.-ECOX, A MAY-VLOWERING BROOM SUITABLE FOR A SMALL GARDEN.
mild. In the open it grows about four feet high,
and against a wall three times that height. It
must not be planted in very cold places. Ordinary
garden soil suits it, and the branches must be cut
back fairly hard in February each year.
Cotoneaster rotunditolia. — This Himalayan
shrub is not planted for the sake of its flowers,
but for its bright red fruits, which ripen in Sep-
tember and hang until spring. It forms a bush
3 feet to 4 feet high if planted in ordinary garden
soil, and does not require pruning.
It will be noted that Rhododendrons, Heaths
and other shrubs of a like character have been
omitted. The omission is due to their imsuit-
ability for soil containing lime. D.
PREPARING GREENHOUSE PLANTS
FOR BEDDING.
In sheltered positions in the flower garden charm-
ing effects may be secured by using plants
out of the pots and the old ball of soil much
reduced, so that the cultivator may be able to
place the roots in a smaller pot, as it will be
necessary to repot these plants into larger pots
once prior to planting them out.
The roots of Cannas must now be placed in
gentle heat to induce a steady, sturdy growth.
When all have made good progress, gradual
hardening must be commenced at the end of
-April, so that all wUl be in a fit condition to transfer
to the flower garden the first week in June.
Plants from Seeds. — Seeds of Zea japonica
variegata, Ricinus Gibsonii (Castor Oil Plant)
Centaureas, Nicotiana affinis, N. Sanders, and
others possessing fine foliage, should be sown,
and the resultant seedlings grown on in a rich
compost. They must be grown to possess large,
well-coloured leaves, and to this end avoid any
check to growth, and very carefully harden the
plants so as to retain the lower leaves. Avo\.
THE GARDEN.
[February 7, 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
Figs in Pots. — Trees that were started into
growth early in December will now be sufficiently
advanced to benefit by frequent applications
of manure-water from the farmyard. Fig trees
require a large quantity of moisture at the roots
during the growing season, and, when this is
applied, sufficient should be given to moisten the
soil to the drainage.
Cuciunbers. — If seeds were sown at the begin-
ning of the year, the plants should now be ready
to put out. Let the house be thoroughly cleaned
and the walls whitewashed with hot lime. A
hot-bed of leaves and stable litter may then be
made up and small mounds of soil placed 4 feet
apart on the surface of the bed, which, when
finished, should be within iS inches of the trellis.
Tomatoes. — Plants raised in Oclober and
wintered near the glass in 6-inch pots should now
be showing flower and ready for their final potting.
Ten-inch pots are best for the purpose. The soil
may consist of three parts turfy loam and the
remainder of leaf-soil. Another sowing may be
made now for succession. The first day of iVIarcli
is quite early enough to sow seeds of approved
open-air varieties.
Pot Vines. — Early pot Vines will now have
set their fruits, and will require careful treatment.
Top-dress the pots with loam and cow-manure,
and give frequent wateruigs of liquid manure
from the farmyard ; but care must be taken
that this is not too strong, or the young roots
may suffer in consequence. Six medium-sized
bunches will be sufficient for each Vine to carry,
and these should be distributed evenly over the
Vine. Stop the strongest shoots at the second
leaf beyond the bunch, in order to give the bunches
near the bottom of the trellis a chance to develop.
A temperature of 70° at night and 85° by day
with sun-heat will ^uit them well.
Plants Under Glass.
Amaryllis Bulbs intended for flowering during
the spring and early summer should be examined,
the old soil carefully removed, and the bulbs
potted in a compost of light, turfy loam and old
lime rubble. Make the soil moderately firm in
clean, well-crocked pots. If required, the first
batch may be placed in gentle bottom-heat at
once to start them into growth. Overpotting
must be avoided, as they flower quite freely in
6-inch or 7-inch pots, and are better suited for
decoration.
Chrysanthemums. — The earliest batch of cut-
tings should now be potted into 4-inch pots and
placed on a bed of fine sifted ashes quite near the
roof glass. A brick pit where gentle fire-heat
can be applied in times of sharp frost will suit
them very well ; but this artificial heat must
be avoided as far as possible, as any forcing of the
plants into growth now is almost certain to have
a detrimental effect on them later in the season.
.Avoid overcrowding, and ventilate the pit freely
as soon as the plants have made new roots. Water
with great care, and never until the soil is dry,
when a good soaking should be given.
Gloxinias. — The largest of the old tubers
should now be shaken out of the soil and placed
in shallow pans or boxes. Cover lightly with
fine sandy soil, and, when sufficient growth has
been made, the tubers may be potted into their
flowering pots, which should be quite clean and
well crocked.
Seed-Sowing. — Seeds should now be sown
of Begonias, Gloxinias, Amaryllis, Clerodend'rons,
Celosias, Coleus, GreviUeas and Eucalyptus.
Fine sifted soil composed of sandy loam and
decayed leaves in equal parts should be used.
Cover the seeds lightly and protect with sheets
of glass in a temperature of 70°.
The Flower Garden.
Seed-Sowing. — Various seeds should be sown
now, whicli include Antirrhinums, Dianthuses,
Carnations, Pentstemons, Aquilegias and Begonias.
All these should be sowii in gentle heat, with the
exception of Begonias, which should be placed
in a temp:rature of 65'^.
Rhododendrons and Azaleas in permanent
beds should receive a top-dressing of decaved
cow-manure, turfy loam and peat in equal parts
before the season is too far advanced. These are
surface-rooting plants, and should never be dis-
turbed by forking the soil. The surface may
be lightly raked over with an iron rake previous
to applying the surface-dressing, which should
be made tight by treading while dry.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Bush Fruit. — If not already done, the pruning
of all bush fruit trees should be finished as soon as
possible. Newly planted trees may be cut hard
back. 111 order to shape them for'antjther year.
With regard to dessert Gooseberries, the trees
should be well thimied out, and, where the spurs
are too numerous, every second spur may be
removed, in order to admit light and air to the
centre of the tree and render the gathering of the
fruit less difficult. All side shoots of Red and
White Currants may be pruned to two or three
buds from the main branch, leaving the leading
shoot 8 inches or 9 inches long. Black Currants
require a different method of pruning. As most
of the fruit is borne on the young wood, let the
trees be well thinned by removing as much of the
old wood as can be spared, and encourage the
strong, young growths from the base, which may
be left unpruncd.
The Kitchen Garden.
Chicory, — This valuable winter salad is easily
forced, The roots may be placed in any dark
chamber with a temperature of 60°. If only a
small supply is necessary, the roots may be placed
close together in 7-inch pots. If watered well
when potted, no more moisture mil be necessary,
and the crop should be ready to cut within three
weeks.
Rhubarb Roots may be lifted and put in
gentle heat. Any place with a temperature of 50°
will answer the purpose. If fresh plantations
are necessary for the purpose of producing crowns
for forcing, the gromid should be trenched and a
good dressing of manure given. Plant in rows
5 feet apart and 3 feet in the row.
Horse-Radish. — The present is the best time
to make plantations of Horse-radish in deep, rich
soil. Trench the ground and give a good dressing
of decayed manure.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Rhubarb may now be safely planted, and 111
doing so see that the ground has received a liberal
supply of good farmyard manure. Select the
strongest crovms, and allow plenty of room between
the rows, finishing by giving the groimd a good
mulching of stable litter.
Potatoes for Seed. — Go over the Potatoes
intended for seed and box the varieties for sprout-
ing. Too much importance cannot be attached
to this practice, as it adds materially to the quality
and yield. The boxes of tubers should be kept
in a cool, airy place where they will be safe from
frost. There seem to be conflicting opinions
as to whether the seed should be changed each
year or not. If one is careful that the seed selected
is true to the type and changed to different parts
of the garden, I see no reason why seed should
not last for a year or two.
Brussels Sprouts. — Where Brussels Sprouts
are required for September, either for exhibition
or for ordinary kitchen use, a small sowing may
now be made in a cutting-box and placed in a cold
frame.
Mint. — Several roots of Mint may be lifted
and placed in boxes, or planted at the back of a
Peach-house border. These will force readily,
and will come in handy where Mint sauce is wanted
for early lamb.
Peas. — Should any seeds of last season's Peas
be left over, they may be sown rather thickly
in cutting-boxes and put on the pipes in a warm
house. If they have been previously soaked
in water for a few hours, the seedlings will come
through the soil in about a week. When about
six inches high, they may be cut and used as
a vegetable for soup, to which I am told they
add a delicious fla\-our.
The Flower Garden.
Carnations. — If seeds are sown now, plants from
these will provide a wonderfully effective displa\-
when the ordinary border varieties have passed out
of bloom. Many fine strains are now to be had
from our leading nurserymen, and if these receive
careful attention from the seedling stage, it is
surprising what a fine show they will make.
Verbenas. — If Verbenas have not already
been sown, no time should be lost in doing
so. The variety Miss Willmott is somewhat
hard to winter, and many experience great
difficulty in getting together the necessary stock.
Last season I dispensed with cuttings and grew
my entire stock from seed, and I was rewarded
by the best display of Verbenas I have seen. D"
not sow in much heat, otherwise the plant?
will become weakly. An ordinary greenhouse
temperature will suit them best.
Subtropical Plants. — Where plants such as
Solanums, Castor Oil and Wigandias are required
as dot plants am'ing the summer-bedding subjects,
no time should be lost in sowing the seed.
Solanum Pyracanthum is very striking as a dot
plant.
Dahlia Tubers may now be gone over and
placed in a warm vinery to produce cuttings.
This will apply more particularly to the better
sorts. The Collarette varieties sho^vn by Messrs.
Dobbie of Edinburgh have created quite a
sensation among florists, and are likely to be
much in demand.
Plants Under Glass.
Primulas. — These will now be growing freely,
and ought to be given plenty of room to develop
the foliage, which in itself is very decorative.
As the pots begin to get filled with roots, occasional
applications of liquid manure should be given.
Cinerarias. — The stellata type of Cineraria
is undoubtedly a very handsome plant when
well grown. Where large specimens are required,
they may be potted into '8-inch or g-inch pots,
and as growth advances give plenty of surface
feeding.
Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums. — Where large speci-
mens of these popular Geraniums are required for
exhibition or decorative purposes, the present
is a good time to make a selection of the most
suitable plants. These may be pruned and
trained, and as growth commences they may
be repotted in about the same sized pot and kept
growing on.
Chrysanthemums. — Examine cuttings of Chry-
santhemums each day, and those that have rooted
may be taken out and placed on a shelf near the
glass in the same house. The idea should be ti'
keep the cuttings as sturdy as possible and avoid
all traces of coddlmg.
Roses in Pots. — ^These will be pushing up their
flower-buds now, and may be fed with liquid
manure from time to time. Ventilating should
be done with great care, as the cold air from the out-
side has a very injurious effect on the young leaves.
Somehow or other mildew will make its appearance
at this stage, and must be held in check. I have
found syringing with Bentley's Mildew Destroyer
as good as anything for this purpose.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Morello Cherries. — Where a large number of
these Cherries are grown, the nailing or tying is
a long and tedious job, and as these are usualh-
on a north wall, the work can only be done on
fine days. Care should be taken not to over-
crowd the shoots or tie them up in threes and
fours, as one sometimes sees. When the tying
has been completed, it will be well to give the
trees a good mulcliing of farmyard manure.
Recently Planted Fruit Trees. — There seems
to be a great diversity of opuiion as to whether
trees should be pruned the first season or not,
and I daresay there is a good deal that might h<
said 'HI both sides. Pers'inally, I am inclined
to think that they are better left alone the first
season, as, if hard pruned back, they seem
to make such rampant growth, and are not si>
easily checked afterwards.
John Hhuicate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopetoun Gardens, South Qucensferry, N.B.
February 7, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
75
IS THE DAFFODIL A
FLORIST'S FLOWER?
"YES" AND "NO."
(Continued from page 63.)
1MUST ask "Somerset" another Icadiiif;
question, or, rather, I must fire off a series
of short, jerky interrogations to stUl further,
as I think, drive the nail hoinc. Who
are the people who pay the higher prices ?
What do they do it for ? Is it onh'
for the same purpose as a breeder of cattle
buys a pedigree bull ? Where would the market
of the hybridist be if It were not for the show
people as well ? Are not the breeders and the
buyers of stock often exhibitors themselves ?
Then, if a show is thus predicated, must there
not be some general agreement about the " points "
of a flower ? I am glad that " Somerset " puts
me down as having a " too catholic sense of beauty
to make a sound florist of the Glenny school,"
because I think it is true, inasmuch as I fully
recognise that the Narcissus family is capable
of giving us many and varied types, of each of
which I could say, " How happy could I be with
either, were the other fair charmer away," only
for " either " I would put " any," and I would
make "charmer" plural. I even think I have a
n\ore catholic naind than " Somerset " liimself,
for I rank a flower of the Frank Miles type as
every bit as worthy of show honours as Homespun,
and my favourite Countess of Southesk as White
Queen. In writing what I did of Cossack —
" Its round, overlapping perianth and its beautiful
deep red eye are just what judges like to see at
shows " — I rather meant readers to infer that
such were not exactly my own sentiments. Even
when " Daffodils " was written, I grew weary
of red eyes and circular perianths ; and
had I given my decisions when adjudicating in
competitions on my own individual likings or
dislikings instead of on what I felt was the united
consensus of show people's opinion, I do not
tliink my services would have been requisitioned
a second time. Since then, however, a change
has taken place, and there is a decided tendency,
which I am heartily glad to see, for a taking in
of many types in place of just a few. ,A.gain I
ask : Is not this a stronger reason than ever for
the adoption of some fixed canons to guide com-
petitors and judges alike ? The only valid argu-
ment against this is that there should be no shows
at all. Does anyone wish this ? A last shot
in support of " Yes." After all, is not showing a
great pleasure to a large and increasing number
of cultivators ? Must not they be catered for ?
The most successful single flower society of the
present time is the National Rose Society. It
is " miles ahead " of any other. I note how it
keeps putting on new shows. First a metro-
politan, then a provincial, then an autumn, and
now a spring. The Rose community want them
and they get them. The exhibitions delight many
who are not growers for show. So it is witli the
Daftodil.
Now for some remarks to support the " No "
answer to my query. I compare the Daffodil
with the Tulip ; they have so much in common.
If in the fifties and sixties I had asked, " Is the
Tulip aj florist's flower?" my reply would have
ended with " Yes." There was no garden then
to tliink about in the same sense that there is
to-day. The by-products of the show were not
thought of then. The modern Cottage garden
forms are the basic slag rescued from the great
licap of cast-offs. The very fact of having a
voracious garden that must be fed no less in
spring than in summer lias changed the outlook
entirely. Tulips in olden days were confined to
particular beds and arranged in serried ranks
with such minute care that a " cabinet " for
summer storage was the necessary adjunct of
every Tulipist. I feel fairly certain that they
were hardly ever to be seen elsewhere in the
ordinary borders. Now, even Mr. Needham
grows a few others to brighten up his garden,
and in doing this I think he is getting out of the-
condescending-to-the-popular-taste stage and be-
ginning to really like them. Who knows but
what he may be an exhibitor at the May-
flowering show at ^'incent Square on May r4
next ?
In all this my meaning is that with the coming
of the garden there has arisen a need for a new
type of Tulip — tall, strong and effective in colour,
such as we get in the Cottage and Darwins, and,
to a lesser extent, in those new redivivus types
the Rembrandts and the robust striped generally.
In the -case of the Daffodil there has not been
the " cast off and lost " stage. Anything now
up to show excellence has been at once tried
in or for the garden, and so it has come about
that the Daffodil has blossomed out as the Rose,
and that there is going on now in all large em-
poriums, as well as in the garden of the amateur,
a testing and sorting of which the new Royal Horti-
cultural Society's Rules for .Awards, which come
into force in r9i4, are the outward and visible
sign. The Daffodil is not a florist's flower alone.
It is a garden flower too. It will grow in beds
and borders, in grass and in rockwork, in pots
and in boxes for cutting. The family pav us
good old-fashioned visits of six months' duration,
but it is not a limpet like the Perpetual-flowering
Carnation and the Rose. December sees the start
and May the finish. I fancy we like it all the
better because it is not. Enough has been said
to show that we must look after the Daffodil's
non-show side. I am one with "Somerset"
here, at all events, and I quite grant that many
which are not suitable for showing have their
uses here, and these, no less than the show varie-
ties, want their Glenny. For instance, I cannot
advise the purchase of red eyes which fade after
half a day's sun, nor yet such miffy subjects as
Lemon Queen, if it is for the garden that they
are wanted ; while, on the other hand, no praises
can be too loud for some of the new Giant Leedsiis
like The Fawn and H. C. Bowles. The Royal
Horticultural Society will be the Glenny here,
or shall I say they are going to try to be through
their Narcissus committee, who now only want
the flowers — with the all-important slip faithfully
filled up — to be placed before them, and they
will then point out by their awards the purposes
for which they are most suited. Joseph Jacob,
complete experiments of Dr. Voelcker in the
sixties clearly showed this on a large number
of soils ; the salt produced plant food in the
soil in the shape of various chlorides, including
sometimes ammonia, which it liberated from
manure, guano and other forms of nitrogen.
Seeing that salt has tliis powerful action, it is
probably wise to use it in moderate amounts
only, and it must not be looked upon merely as
a purifier which can be used without any limit.
No less an authority than Sir John Lawes even
considered salt detrimental, and we know its
effect on weeds when used in excess. It seems
likely enough that it is the hydrochloric acid
in salt that does the mischief, if this occurs,
for chlorides are well known to be injurious trj
certain crops. This is probably why muriate of
potash does not succeed so well a4 the sulphate ;
in fact, it seems to injure Potatoes, Sugar Beet
and Tobacco, maldug the first named waxy,
preventing the ready crystallisation of sugar in
Beet, and in Tobacco impairing the quality.
Salt has the property, like other saline solutions,
of clearing muddy water, and so it may be useful
in clay in preventing the puddling action which
nitrate of soda causes. It has other effects,
sometimes questionable or harmful, and so it
shoidd be used with caution, especially as large
quantities seem to be loss favourable than small
ones. Gervaise Turnbull.
THE WALNUTS AND THEIR
CULTIVATION.
T
THE ACTION OF SALT ON SOIL
Since the time of Lord Bacon at least, the advan-
tage or otherwise of salt as a manure has been an
unsettled question, except with certain crops, and
still more uncertain is the method of its working.
It has always been a puzzle to chemists. Its
connection with potash is now better known,
however, or, rather, the relations of potash and
HE Walnuts, or species of Juglans,
are an important group of trees, ftr,
in addition to producing valuable
timber, the fruits of most kinds are
edible, while all the species form
ornamental trees with distinct and
decorative foliage. They are credited with being
rather tender, but this only applies to young,
fast-grown trees and to premature growth in spring.
After a mild winter young shoots are formed
earlier than usual, and they sometimes fall a prey
to late frosts. So far as winter frost is concerned,
they are quite hardy, and well-developed specimens
of the common Wahiut are found as far North as
Aberdeen. As a rule, those growing in the South
of England fruit more satisfactorily than those
iJi other districts, trees growing in the North only
perfecting fruits occasionally.
The Walnuts require good, deep, loamy soil,
such as may be expected to produce good Oaks.
.As a rule, they are planted as ornamental trees
in parks and gardens, rather than to form woods
or plantations, but there appears to be little reason
why one or two species should not be used by the
forester in the South of England. The timber
is always valuable, while that which is specially
well figured commands a fancy price. A verj-
small quantity of timber is cut in this country,
and the bulk of that required by manufacturers
is obtauied from France, Italy, Asia Minor and
North America. That from the first three countries
named is the wood of the common Walnut
(Juglans regia), and that from North America
is the Black Walnut (J. nigra). It is used largely
by cabinet and furniture manufacturers, and is
one of the most popular woods for the manufacture
of gim-stocks. The fruits of the common Walnut
are in demand in European coimtries for dessert.
soda. There is no doubt, it would appear
from experiment, of the solvent action of the I and the fruits of other species are used in their
soda in common salt on the soil. The very | respective countries for the same purpose, .^.n
76
THE GARDEN.
[February 7, 1914.
oil is also obtained from the kernels of Walnuts,
which is used in food preparations and paints,
according to the method of extraction, that
produced by cool extraction being favoured for
the former, and that expressed by heat for the
latter purpose.
All the species are propagated by seeds and the
varieties by grafting. When seeds can be planted
in the positions the trees are to occupy, growth
is, as a rule, more satisfactory than when the young
trees have to be transplanted. When groivn in
nurseries they must be transplanted frequintly.
otherwise long roots will be produced at the expense
of fibrous roots.
Although there are comparatively few species
of Juglans, they are widely distributed, for they
are found from Eastern Europe through Persia
and Asia Minor to the Himalaya, China and Japan,
while there are also representatives in North
America. In addition to the species, there are
several varieties of the common Walnut, and also
a number of hybrids, which claim J. regia for
one parent.
Juglans regia, the best known member of the
family, is found from Greece through a considerable
part of South-Eastem Europe to Persia, Asia Minor
and the Himalaya, while a form is also present
in China. When growing imder exceptionally
favourable conditions it attains a height of from
80 feet to 100 feet, with a tnmk upwards of 15 feet
in girth, but it is more frequently met with between
50 feet and 80 feet in height. It is easily recognised
by reason of the silvery bark of the yoimger wood
and by its pinnate, glabrous leaves. In other
species the leaves are clothed with soft hairs.
The leaves are usually from 8 inches to 10 inches
long, and are composed of from five to nine ellip-
tical or ovate leaflets. The male flowers are in
catkins from 2 inches to 5 inches in length, and the
female flowers appear in small clusters. It is
grown in this country for ornament and fruit.
Large numbers of trees are grown in France,
Germany and Switzerland fir the sake of the
truit. Some trees form large burrs on the trunks,
and the wood from them is usually beautifully
marked. It is cut into veneer and used for the
better quaUties of furniture. Several well-marked
varieties have been given varietal names. Distinct
ones are J. laciniata, with finely divided leaves ;
J. maxima, with large fruits ; J, monophylla,
in which the leaves may consist of one, two or
three lobes ; J. praparturiens, a lorm which
originated in France and is remarkable on account
of its coming into fruit at a very early age ; J.
heterophylla, with leaves of various shapes,
sometimes almost normal and at others havong the
leaflets almost as finely divided as in J, laciniata ;
and J. serotina, said to be a Chinese form, which
commences to grow somewhat later than the type.
J. nigra is an important North American species
which, under the most satisfactory conditions,
grows 150 feet high, with a girth of 15 feet or
20 feet. Numerous trees in the South of England
approach or exceed 100 feet in height, with a
girth of from 9 feet to 12 feet. Its timber is of a
rich dark brown or blackish colour, and is much
appreciated by furniture-makers. The leaves are
handsome, up to 3 feet long on vigorous trees,
and composed of from fifteen to twenty-three
leaflets. The globular fruits have very thick
shells and small kernels. This species is worth
planting under forest conditions in the South of
England. It is commonly called the Black Walnut.
J. Oinerea. — This is the Butternut of the United
States. Forming a handsome tree from 50 teet
to 100 feet in height, it produces long, pinnate
leaves, made up of from eleven to seventeen
oblong, hairy leaflets, and bears its fruits in clusters
of from three to five. The nuts are oblong, i J inches
to 2i inches long, and the shells are deeply furrowed.
The kernels are pleasantly flavoured and large.
There are very few large trees in this country, one
of the best being recorded as growing in the grounds
of Mr. C. S. Dickens at Coolhurst, near Horsham.
This exceeds 50 teet in height.
J. cordiformis is a Japanese species, notable
for its fine foliage and long racemes of male flowers
It forms a tree 50 feet high and produces leaves
between 2 feet and 3 feet in length, made up of
from eleven to thirteen broadly oblong leaflets.
The male flowers are green, and produced in
drooping catkins i foot or more long. The female
flowers are also borne in long catkins, and from
four to six fruits may sometimes be seen on a
single stalk. These fruits are heart-shaped and
about an inch wide. The kernels are fairly large
and pleasantly flavoured.
J. mandshurica is a somewhat similar tree to the
last named, but is a native of Amurland. It com-
mences to grow early and is often injured by frost.
J. pyriformis and J. vilmoriniana are hybrids
between J. regia and J. nigra, combining the
characters of both species ; and J. alata is a hybrid
between J. cinerea and J. regia, its distinguishing
features being intermediate between the two.
Other species which may be obtained are J.
californica, J. sieboldiana and J. rupestris. D.'
BOOKS.
Colour Standards and Nomenclature.* — This
is the title of a very wonderful book, produced
after much labour and expense by Mr. Robert
Ridgway, the Curator of the Division of Birds
in the United States National Museum. In
the preface the author bemoans the lack of a
colour standardisation, mainly, I take it, because
it would be so exceedingly useful to ornithologists
and other naturalists. He calls attention to the
fact that he made an attempt more than twenty
years ago to remedy the deficiency by publishing
a book containing r86 samples of named colours.
Naturally, these were found to be not nearly enough
to be of any great use, so Mr. Ridgway set to work
to enlarge and improve upon it. The result is
the present edition of " Colour Standards and
Nomenclature," containing no fewer than r,ii5
distinct shades of colour, each one in its proper
place according to the ideal chromatic scale which
he has adopted after, as it were, making the solar
spectrum " loop the loop." The means by which
he has arrived at all the different shades portrayed
from the six fundamental colours of red, orange,
yellow, green, blue, and violet occupies the first
part of the most instructive prologue. This in
turn is followed by discussions on " Colour Names "
and " Colour Terms." In the first of these we
have the pros and cons for the adoption of a recog-
nised standard, not only of colour, but of colour
names, and I think the author has very little
difficulty in showing that the one is as necessary
as the other. It is of no use to have a purple colour
standard unless everyone agrees to put into the
background his owai preconceived idea of what
purple is, and eliminating the personal equation
• " Colour Standiirds and Nomonclaturo," by Robert
Kid^way. Eleven hundred and fifteen nameti colours;
flfty-three coloured plates ; 8vo.. cloth ; 1913 ; price
£1 15s. Eni-'llsh ai-'cnts : Wesley and Son, 28, E.wex Street,
strand.
altogether, to adopt that of the standard. The
latter part is taken up with definitions of " colour
terms." Here, again, when we speak or write
of " pale colour," *" broken colour," " hue,'*
" tint," " shade," " tone," &c,, we must all
mean exactly the same thing by these expressions '
or words, or we shall be at cross purposes and be
but little " forrarder." The remaining pages
contain technical tables on the composition of
colours. Twenty-four shades are so arranged
that they are easily referred to. I am
only just begimiing to make any practical
use of it, but my first impressions are decidedly
favourable. It is very handy, much more so
than the Colour Chart (Le Repertoire des Couleurs),
which I have always found rather clumsy to
handle. It contains about the same number of
shades as the older work ; while its names, such
as endive blue, vetiver green and xanthine orange,
although they sound strange and imfamiliar,
are no more so than those of the Chart, and, like
them, they can be referred to by number. I
expect it will be foimd easier to match the colour of
the object with that in the book if a piece of white
cardboard, with a small space cut out to exactly
fit the oblong on the page, is used. By this means
much more exact correspondence will be obtained
between the one and the other, for necessarily^
as the work is only in octavo size, the shades are
somewhat close together. I am looking forward
to the time when I can call it an old friend. I
may be mistaken, but somehow or another I feel
this is what it is going to be. — Joseph Jacob.
Albury Park Trees and Shrubs.* — About three
years ago a catalogue of the trees and shrubs of
Syon House Gardens was favourably reviewed in
these columns. The book under review forms a
companion to the Syon House list. It is compiled
by the same author and has been undertaken at
the request of the Duke of Northumberland, the
owner of both the Syon House and Albury estates.
Reference to Albury is frequent in horticultural
literature, and the publication of a complete list
ot the trees and shrubs of the estate forms very
interesting reading. The following are selected
from among the most remarkable of the trees
recorded : Tilia argentea or White Lime, a magnifi-
cent specimen with remarkably erect branches,
109 feet in height, girth 16 feet ; the lower branches
have a spread of 88 feet, and it is claimed to be
the finest example in cultivation. Populus serotina
or Black Italian Poplar ; this tree is found to be
not less than 150 feet, which is almost a record
height for any tree in this country. Cedrus
Libani or Lebanon Cedar ; the tallest at Albury
is 127 feet high by 15 feet in girth. Three freer
in a fine group on the lawn north of the house arc
said to be among the tallest Cedars in cultivation.
Sequoia gigantea or Wellingtonia ; the finest
specimen at Albury has attained a height of 97 feet,
by 8 feet 10 inches in girth. This must be one of
the tallest Wellingtonias in cultivation. The Yew
hedge at Albury is believed to have been planted
about 1676 under John Eveljm's direction ; it is
448 yards in length with a gap of 90 leet. It
contains about two hundred trees and the stumps
01 a number of those which have died. We have
nothing but praise for the admirable and rarelul
way in which this work has been prepared, and we
hope the day is not far distant when lists on similar
lines will be issued from other noted gardens and
estates throughout the country.
' Catalojaie of Hardy Trce^ and Shrubs t^rowiny at
Albury Park, Surrey. Compiled by A. Bruce Jackson
For private distribution only. Printed by Weet, Newman
and Co.
ii^?i.
GARDEN.
-^^=^
No. 2204.— Vol. LXXVIII.
February 14, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Editorial Notices. — In this and subsequent
issues editorial notices will be found immediately
preceding "Answers to Correspondents." This will
enable us, at the request of a large number of
readers, to devote more space to " Notes of the
Week."
An Annual for Present Sowing.— The beautiful
old-fashioned annual named Salpiglossis is again
becoming a favourite for summer bedding, and as
the new shades are so fine, they are worth a little
extra trouble in growing. As a rule, they
are not sown early enough, at least in ^
cold districts. Seed may now be sown ^
in a cool house or frame, and an endeavour
should be made to have good, sturdy
plants for putting out in May.
Propagating Delphiniums. — It is not
too late to increase the stock of named
varieties of Delphiniums. If young shoots
are taken from the base of old plants
which are starting into growth, placed
in small pots of sandy soil and grown
in a cold frame, they will form nice
young plants for planting in April. By
this means a succession of flowers will be
obtained. The soil for these plants should
be of a rich nature.
An Interesting Rock Plant.— Erigeron
mucronatus, with its small, Daisy-like
flowers, should find a place in every rock '
garden. It is a Mexican species of pros-
trate habit, and it flowers continuously
from June till September. When first
open the flowers are pink, afterwards
changing to white, and as the flowers
are continually opening, both colours are
usually to be seen on the same stem.
This Erigeron, which is synonymous with
Vittadenia triloba, is seen to the best
advantage when grown on a protected
shelf in the rock garden and allowed to
overhang large boulders. It is of perennial
duration and may be raised from seed.
The Sweet Pea Annual. — This, tne
official organ of the National Sweet
Pea Society, has just been published,
and, as usual, contains a great deal
of information that must be of con-
siderable value to those who love and grow these
flowers. We are pleased to find it much better
illustrated than last year's " Annual," and the
answers to the six questions sent out to members
by the committee will provide much food for
reflection. We wish an analysis of the first four
of these answers had been included, as was done
last year. The articles on Sweet Peas in Japan
and early-flowering Peas in New Zealand prove
that the cult of the flower is extending to many
parts of the world. A copy has been sent to
every member of the society. Non-members
wishing to obtain it can do so from the secretary,
Mr. H. D. Tigwell, Greenford, Middlesex, post
free, 2S.
Alpines Under Glass. — Visitors to Kew during
the ne.xt month or two should make a point of
visiting the Alpine House, a modest little structure
that nestles away in a corner of the herbaceous
grounds. Already it is gay with such Crocuses
Ferns. The russet brown fronds of the latter,
with the dead leaves of the trees that have nestled
among them, make a charming foil for the glisten-
ing white Snowdrops, and it is in such situations
as these that their beauty remains unsullied
for a long time. In some places the little purple-
flowered hardy Cyclamen Coum is added to the
Snowdrops, with excellent results.
A Good Early Yellow Crocus. — One of the best
Crocuses that are flowering in the open garden
just now is C. chrysanthus, a brilliant
yellow flower that makes a delightful
patch of colour in the winter sun. Although
it is not quite so sturdy as the yellow
Dutch Crocus, the yellow hue is quite as
good, and on account of its early flowering
should be more widely grown. There is a
good variety of it named fusco-tinctus, the
outside of the petals being slightly tinted
with a sort of brown shade.
An Ancient Royal Fern. — An interest-
ing specimen of the, Royal Fern (Osmunda
regalis) may be seen in the Rock Garden
at Kew. It was presented to Kew by
the Director of the Imperial Botanic
Garden, St. Petersburg, and is one of
several which were originally obtained
from near .Adler in the Caucasus, on the
shores of the Black Sea. Estimated to be
over a thousand years old, the plant has
a large, woody rootstock, with a circum-
ference of 5 feet at the base. It is about
2 feet 6 inches high, and has formed
eight distinct stems, with ten separate
crowns, having a diameter over three
feet. An account of this plant is given
in the Kew BuUetiit. 1913, page 359.
Wart Disease of Potatoes. — Stringent
regulations for preventing the spread of tnis
disease of Potatoes have just been issued by
the Board of .Agriculture and Fisheries.
Potatoes are not to be planted in infected
areas without a licence granted by an in-
spector of the Board, and such licence may
prescribe the varieties authorised to be
planted. A licence is also necessary for the
removalof Potatoes that have been grown in
an infected area. Notification of the disease
as Sieberi, chrysanthus A. E. Bowles and biflorus ; must be given by the grower to the Board, or
Irises reticulata, Danfordiae and Tauri ; Cyclamen ' some person authorised by the Board to receive
ibericum, and some of the earlier Saxifrages, such notice, and an inspector may, by notice
In a week or two there will be a great many more served upon the occupier of any premises within
flowers of interest, and, owing to the shelter, these an infected area, require him to lift any Potatoes
ERIGERON MUCRONATUS OVERHANGING LARGE
BOULDERS IN THE WISLEY ROCK GARDEN.
can be studied in comfort.
Snowdrops and Hardy Ferns. — A particularly
pleasing picture in the woodland just now may
be foQnd where hardy Ferns are grown beneath
lofty trees, and Snowdrops planted between the
suspected of being diseased. Those who grow
Potatoes should at .'ince write to the Secretary,
Board of Agriculture and Fisheries, 4, Whitehall
Place, London, S.W., for copies of the Orders
relating to wart disease.
78
THE GARDEN.
[February 14. 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed b\ correspondents )
Antirrhinums as Bedding Plants. — I was
pleased to see Mr. E. Harriss's letter, page 42,
issue January 24, in which he recommends the
above plants as bedding subjects. The inter-
mediate section is the best for general purposes,
but the tall-gro\\dng one is equally good for group-
ing in borders that are wide enough. Nearly
twenty years ago I grew Antirrhinums in a long
border in front of a plant stove. The soil in
this border was rich, and the plants formed
very fine specimens, the foliage, as well as
the flowers, being handsome. — G. G
Cistus corbariensis. — The note
and accompanying illustration of
this charming Rock Rose which
appeared in the issue of The Gar-
den for January 31 would, no
doubt, be interesting to many
readers who take a delight in rock
gardening. C. corbariensis is by far
the best of all the family for growing
in the rockery, being dwarfer and
more diffuse in growth than any of
the others in general cultivation.
Regarding C. laurifolius, the writer
of the note says it " does quite well
even in Scottish gardens," evidently-
inferring that this is the only
variety suitable for growing so far
North. This, however, is not the
case, as we have grown several
varieties quite successfully as far
north as Perthshire, where they
withstood our ordinary winters with
impunity, although they did suc-
cumb to one of extra severity.
Varieties which grew well and
flowered profusely were the one
under notice, corbariensis, floren-
tinus (both of which undoubtedly
have a good deal of salvisefolius
blood in them), ladaniferus, salvife-
folius and laurifolius. The latter is
exceedingly floriferous, and also
ripens its seeds plentifullv. Last
autumn we saved seeds of thi^
variety, which were sown a fort-
night ago in heat, and they have
already germinated. Rock Roses
are liable to be damaged by heavy
falls of snow, the branches break-
ing off very readily when they
are pressed downwards ; con-
sequently, it is a good plan to support them on
the approach of winter, so as to avoid damage
from this cause. — W. L.. South Ayrshire.
Primula pulverulenta Mrs. R. V. Berkeley. —
The notes on this beautiful Primula by Dr. Macwatt
and " A. D. M." in your issues of January 10,
24 and 31, both refer to the facts that it was
raised from seed " sent home by Messrs. James
Veitch and Sons' collector from China," and
that it " has not produced seed in this country."
But as they both stop at that point, it may have
been overlooked that the variety Mrs. R, V.
Berkeley is not unique, and failed to get an award
at the International Show at Chelsea because
an identical albino form had been shown in 1911.
On June 6 of that year Mr. Lawrence Johnston
showed two very fine forms of pulverulenta which
he had raised from seed. One was the white form
with orange eye, the other was a very soft pink
form, and, under the impression that intermediate
shades of colour would follow, the individual
names that had been given to the two varieties
were dropped, and they were unanimously given
the award of merit under the name of the Hidcote
strain. They failed to pass into commerce, how-
ever, and seem to have been overlooked ; but we
understand that they proved good seed-bearers,
and that the progeny to a large extent bred true,
which is the important point. Last year an
albino pulverulenta identical with Mrs. R. V.
Berkeley turned up in a batch of seedlings in an
East Coast garden and also proved fertile. There
is little doubt that seed is the only satisfactory
method of propagating these short-lived Primulas,
AN AVENUE Ol' ANCIENT YEWS IN THE GARDENS
HALL, ESSEX.
and is essential if the variety is to become
popular. — R. W. Wallace.
Yews and Churchyards. — Will you please
give me, through the medium of The Garden.
the reasons why Yew trees are so frequently
grown in churchyards ? Thanking you in antici-
pation,— M. H., Coventry. [The wood of the
Yew, although ver\- hard, is also flexible
and elastic. In olden times it was in great
request for the making of bows, and for this
reason it was planted in churchyards, where, we
may assume, the inhabitants were free to cut their
own bows. But it was not only in churchyards
that Yews were planted. At Albury Park.
Surrey, there remains an old \'ew hedge 10 feet
high and a quarter of a mile long. At Copped
Hal) in Essex, " at one time a mansion of pleasure
and privacy for the .Abbots of Walthani," is a
famous Yew avenue which we illustrate on this
page. .At the Palace, Hadham, Hertfordshire,
which once belonged to the Bishop of London,
there stands a Yew hedge 3 yards thick ; and
at Bishopsboume, near Canterbury, there are
Y'ew hedges about 14 feet high and 10 feet thick.
While the Yew is now a featiu-e of many Old
English gardens, in former times men loved it
with a certain reverence for the service it rendered
them. Thus appropriately does Conan Doyle,
in his " Song of the Bow," speak of its making :
" Of true wood, of Yew wood,
The wood of Enpilish bows ;
So men who are free
Love the old Yew tree.
And the land where the Yew tree grows." — Ed.]
Canker in Fruit Trees. —
■' Scientist," page 56, gives aJi
exhaustive account of the cause of
canker in fruit trees from his point
of view, and would have us believe
that all canker is caused by the
fungus coming in contact with
wounds in the bark. This is an
assertion that I do not agree with,
and for reasons which I will en-
deavour to show. In some gardens
the soil is a stiff loam on the surface
and the subsoil is of a heavy
character,not quite clay, but a near
approach to it, and consequently
'if a cold nature, and in its natural
condition very impervious to a free
percolation of water from heavy
rains. Wliere the surface soil is,
say, from i foot to 2 feet deep, and
of a free-rooting mediiuu, when
well dug and constantly manured,
but with the subsoil left in its
natural condition, this leaves a
hard, pan-like substance below,
causing a lodgment for superfluOHS
water, from which it cannot drain
away rapidly. Such a combination
of uncongenial circumstances is one
of the main causes of canker. Now,
trees so planted will develop much
canker in certain varieties — as Lord
Suffield, Potts' Seedling, Cox's
Orange and Warner's King. Trees
planted in the autumn quite free
from any wound whatsoever — in
fact, never pruned at that period —
will develop canker the following,
autumn. Such an instance as this
does not bear out "Scientist's"
views. Some of the worst cankered
trees in soil of this description — those of Cox's
Orange Pippin — if taken up, planted afresh
with the roots much nearer the surface and in
a compost of a lighter character, will grow away
afterwards, feeling none the worse for their
previous cankered state. If varieties were
chosen that are not liable to canker in unsuit-
able soil, we should not hear so much complaint
about it. How is it we seldom hear of canker on
Bramley's Seedling or Worcester Peannain growing
next to affected trees and receiving the same treat-
ment in pruning, and that sometimes pretty rough
when the land between the trees is cropped with
vegetables and horse labour is employed ? Undei
such conditions trees do receive wounds in the bark.
Writers with purelv scientific knowledge of tree
growth do not consider the requirements of the
roots imder exceptional circtunstances. — E. M.
AT COPPED
February 14, 1414.
THE GARDEN.
79
The Daffodil in New Zealand. — It may interest
your correspondent " F. H. C." whose remarks ap-
pear in your columns of November i, 191 3, page 547.
to know that New Zealand-raised seedlings occupied
a much more prominent place in the Auckland
DalTodil Show than appears in the newspaper
cutting from which he quotes. In the cliampion
vase class for fortj' varieties, the winner staged
twenty-seven seedling varieties of his own raising,
and won with points to spare from two other
strong e.xhibits. In the single bloom open class,
four out of the eight classes w*ere won with local-
raised seedlings, and in one other class a local-
raised seedling gained second place. Two very fine
seedlings were also shown in the seedling classes.
The Auckland daffodilists are very keen, and keep
well up to date with new varieties, so that
the honours obtained were won in good company.
Whether this justifies the assertion " sic transit
Gloria Mundi " I leave to " F. H. C."— The
Judge at the Auckland Daffodil Show.
Colour Effects with Annuals. — As men-
tioned by your esteemed contributor Mr. R. P.
Brotherston on page 30, issue January 17, the
coloured illustration of annuals accompanying
The Garden for January 3, together with notes
relating thereto, raises several interesting points
concerning colour combinations. The arrange-
ment of colours is a matter for the display of
individual taste to such an extent that it would
be invidious to lay down any hard-and-fast rules
with regard to it ; but, at the same time, it is well
to bear in mind that certain glaring contrasts should
be avoided if the best possible results are to be
obtaiiied. In the above-mentioned coloured plate
the sharply defined belts of brilliant blue, white
and rosy carmine are, I venture to think, in vivid
contrast rather than harmonious blending. May
1 suggest a colour-scheme to be worked out from
one end of the border to the other, rather than
across it ? By beginning at one end 'with white
and cream flowers and following with yellow and
orange to deep scarlet, a return could be made
in reverse order to cream and white. Blue flowers
could then be used, beginning with the palest
shades and gradually deepening the tones until
purple is reached, again reverting gradually to
white. Then pinks could be introduced, the
deeper rose shades following the paler tones,
until crimson is arrived at. Then, again, by
gradations of colour in reverse order, white could
be reached. In all cases I would suggest that
the palest shades be used near the front of the
border. The diagram will explain the notes.
i
-O QJ
S- dJ
=3 .5 fl o c .2 *
^ ft rt S ^ Pi ^
5 o .a .3 g o 5
tf: fc ^ , c^ fc U
The asterisks indicate where the deepest tones
should be used.— H. Turner, Serlhy Gardens, York.
^ FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
February 17.— Broughty Ferry Horticultural
Association's Meeting. The Women's Agricultural
and Horticultural International Union Dinner.
February 18.— Croydon Horticultural Mutual
Improvement Society's Annual Dinner.
February 19. — Linnean Society's Meeting.
February 24.— Royal Horticultural Society's
Meeting and Exhibition. Lecture at 3 p.m. on
" The Uses of Explosives and of the Blow Lamp."
SWEET PEA STREAK AND
OTHER DISEASES.
THERIi seems but little doubt thai
some confusion has arisen with regard
to the diseases from which Sweet
Peas suffer. Until a few years ago
mildew was the only fungus attack
which Sweet Pea growers feared to
any great extent, but with the advent of the
wavy standard forms more attention began to
be given to this always popular flower. More
care was lavished upon it individually, more
was expected of the individual, and more note
was taken of a single death here and there. '
Streak. — Then we began to hear of streak.
Sometimes a brown streak appeared in the stem,
but in almost all cases of the disease the upper
parts of the plants began to turn yellow, the
leaves to become spotted, and a curious, curled
appearance of the upper part of the stem and
the flower-buds appeared. Attacked plants usually
died more or less rapidly, and sometimes looked
wilted for a time before they died outright. It
seems clear now that more than one disease has
been included under the term " streak."
A very large number of plants said to be affected
by streak reached the present writer, and as a
result of his examination of them and subsequent
experimental infection of plants, he came to the
conclusion that the large majority of these cases
of disease were due to the attack of a fungus called
Thielavia basicola upon the roots. It was often
very difficult to make out the gross symptoms of
the disease affecting the plants from the specimens
sent, as they had often been out of the ground
for several days and were frequently badly packed ;
but it is certain that not all of them showed the
brown streak in the stem which is characteristic
of the true streak disease. Mr. Massee. who also
examined a very large number of plants, also
came to the conclusion quite independently that
we had to deal with a root disease.
A Root Disease. — The symptoms present
in the root were the darkening of a less or greater
length of the root- surface, and sometimes also
of the base of the stem, owing to the presence of
the dark chestnut-coloured spores of the fungus
upon the root or stem base and the death of the
parts attacked. This dark part never extended
far up the stem. The death and rotting of portions
of the root adversely affected the stems and leaves
owing to the ch ,k imposed upon the collection of
water and its supply to the foliage, and many
of the symptoms outlined above followed as a
natural consequence of this check.
Checks to Growth. — The present writer gave
an account of his experiments with the fungus
on the Sweet Pea in the Journal of the Royal
Horticultural Society, and showed that the attack
of the fungus upon the root produced the root-
rot, and, after causing the shrivelling and }'ellowing
of parts of the stem remote from the point of
attack, brought about the death of the plant.
The most significant thing arising from these ex-
periments was, however, the difficulty experienced
in causing the fungus to attack the root when
growing under healthy conditions ; but when a
check was imposed upon its healthy development,
the root was speedily attacked and the plant
succumbed, whereas where the root was similarly
checked and there was no fungus, the plants
recovered without exception. It seems, therefore,
that a check to the root may lay the plants open
to attack, and as the fungus is widely distributed
over the country in the soil, the attack is very
likely to follow. Probably any check will be an
efficient preparer of the plant for attack, and
one cannot help thinking that the methods often
adopted, with the very best intentions, in pre-
paring the soU for Sweet Peas lay them open
to the attack. Instead of intimately mixing
manure with the soil, it is too often placed in
layers — a layer of soil and a layer of manure,
and so on. Too much manure is used. A trench
is dug which acts as a trap, into which water
runs from other parts of the soil as into a drain,
and, quite likely, as into a drain without sufficient
fall. Watering is indulged in too frequently or
injudiciously, and so on.
Preventive Measures.— It seems evident that
if one could sterilise the soil effectively, the fungus
would not prove troublesome ; but the difficulties
of doing this outdoors are at present insuperable,
and no kind of chemical treatment has, so far,
proved really effective. All that can be done
at present is to cultivate the plants rationally,
not to over-stimulate or grow them in an acid
soil, to see that supplies of potash and phosphates
are ample, and to take great care as to the fashion
in which watering (if any) is carried out. We
ought not to mix up these diseases, now we know
we have more than one to deal with, and perhaps
the best name to give this would be Sweet Pea
root-rot. It is without doubt very widely spread
in this country.
Another Disease. — Much more rarely we find
another fungus, a species of Fusarium, attacking
the roots of the Sweet Pea and bringing about
a withering of the plant. We may call this wilt
disease. The fungus grows up into the stem
and stuffs up the vessels along which the water
flows, so that the supply is cut off from the
leaves. It is similar in its action and in its
origin to the sleepy disease of Tomatoes, and,
if it occurs, the plants attacked should be
uprooted and burned, and the plot where it
occurred avoided for some years for Sweet Pea
cultivation.
The True Streak.— Much more recently it
has been discovered by Miss Cayley that the
water-soaked areas in stem (forming streaks)
and leaves, which are characteristic of some
cases of disease, are due to the attack of certain
bacteria, and it is, since this attack is apparentlv
always characterised by streaky areas m the stem,
to this form of disease that the term " streak "
should be restricted. Comparatively little i.5
known about this disease, but the bacilli appear
to live in the spaces between the cells and to pass
from place to place through these spaces. They
seem to develop rapidly only after a period of hot
weather, and may exist in the plant without
betraying their presence, ready to spread as soon
as conditions are favourable. Unfortunately,
they may exist in the seeds, and, at any rate at
times, show their presence by brown areas inside
the cotyledons of the seed, spreading thence
through the plant. Whether they also get into
the plant from the soil, as is probable, or are
carried from plant to plant by such insects as
aphides or pests as eelworms, as is possible, is
not yet fully proved. In any case it is difficult
to see how such an insidious attack can be avoided,
though it is just possible, but not entirely certain,
that rigid elimination of diseased plants from
the seed stocks and prompt burning of all diseased
plants in the areas cultivated would do something
to check the trouble. F. J. Chittenden.
80
THE GARDEN.
[Febrl'arv 14, 19x4.
PRACTICAL HINTS
ON GROWING SWEET PEAS.
w
ITH the lengthening days the
work among the Sweet Peas
will commence. Certainly the
grower w-ho raises plants under
glass, whether it is in the autumn
or the spring, will have the seed
sown ; but thus far the
seedlings will not have
occupied a great deal of
time The autumn-sown
plants are now growing
freely, and young growths
should be pushing from
the base of the plants.
The present time is a
very suitable one to
handle the plants, and it
will be quite wise to put
a few small twigs, prefer-
ably of fine Birch, to keep
them more or less erect.
This is not absolutely
necessary, but it prevents
the young growths becom-
ing entangled with their
neighbours, and certainly
keeps them sturdier by
allowing the free circula-
tion of light and air be-
tween the plants. The soil
in which plants were sown
singly in pots in the
autumn, or potted off
singly soon after germina-
tion, after two or three
months in a cold frame is
apt to become rather
green on the surface, and,
during the operation of
twigging, the green should
be removed ; this will keep
the soil sweeter and tend
to better root action. An
occasional spraying over-
head on fine days with a
very weak solution of per-
manganate of potash will
be beneficial, and I would
certainly suggest that
such treatment be con-
tinued, even after the
plants are put out in the
ground. It is needless,
perhaps, to add that too
much air cannot be given
at this season, for it must
be borne in mind that very
few weeks will elapse
before it is necessary to
plant out, and they can-
not be in too hard a con-
dition to withstand the
cold winds that are often experienced soon after
planting. These winds are, I think, more harmful
tlian a few degrees of frost.
Spring-Sown Plants should be coming through
the soil nicely. They should have had slight
warmth during the period of germination, but,
after the first pair of leaves have unfolded, the
process of hardening oft must be commenced,
or the young plants will soon become attenuated.
The grower's aim should be to keep them stiff enough
to stand quite upright until planting-out-time.
Sweet Peas Under Glass. — Plants that are
being cultivated for blooming under glass should
now be in their flowering pots or planted in the
borders, whichever system is being adopted.
Great progress has been made in this phase of
cultivation during the past year or two, and results
obtained which even five or six years ago seemed
well-nigh impossible. But such results are only
SWEET PEA MRS.
HUGH DICKSON, A BEAUTIFUL CREAM PINK VARIICTY SUITABLE
lOR EXHIBITION AND GARDEN PURPOSES.
obtained by very careful cultivation, and one of
the chief essentials is to keep the plants growing
very steadily at this season. Great care is neces-
sary in watering, and once they have been well
watered in after potting or planting out, very
little more will be needed for some time ; but as
I the days lengthen and the temperature of the house
is raised by sun-heat, both root and top growth
! will be very rapid, and, naturally, a little more
moisture at the roots and in the air will be beneficial.
Where a good number of plants are grown under
glass, the question of training them crops up.
and though I have seen several different systems
tried, including ordinary stakes, Bamboos and
various string arrangements, I doubt if there is
anything so good and easily fixed as the Simplicitas
Ne.tting, this being even more effective indoors than
in the open. It is too late to speak of varieties
for cultivating under glass this season, and e.xcept
for exhibition very few
\'arieties are required ; but
It may not be out of plac
to mention a few that I
think will be greatly in
demand for this purpose
for igrj. Bobbie's Frilled
Pink, quite an acquisition ;
Thomas Stevenson, con-
sidered the finest variety
under glass ; Double
Maggie Stark, a nice
soft orange pink ; and
Dobbie's Lavender G.
Herbert and R. F. Felton.
both grand varieties in
this colour. Robert Syden-
ham, though little has
been seen of this up to
now. before the end of the
season, if I am not greatly
mistaken, will have estab-
lished a reputation second
only to my namesake.
.Margaret .^tlee I have not
seen under glass, but I feel
sure this will be quite
good enough in the deeper
cream pinks, while Lady
.Miller cannot fail to be
in demand as a pale cream
or salmon pink. White is
always in demand, and
I'lorence Wright Spencer
will be difficult to beat,
the extra substance in the
bloom making it a desir-
able \-arietv.
Preparation of the
Soil. — Turning to the pre-
paration of the soil out of
doors, one naturally infers
that it has all been well
cultivated before this, and
those who have not given
tlinr ground a dressing of
lime on the surface may
with advantage do so
some time before this
ntonth is out. Not only
will it benefit the soil —
if heavy by its mechanical
.iction — but it will tend to
free it of slugs, wire-
worm and other pests
which in the early stages
I do much harm to the plants. Ground that is
known to be badly infested with wireworm
1 may be partially cleared of this pest by burying
Potatoes or Carrots in the ground and examining
j them every secimd or third day ; this for preference
before the plants are put out. To facilitate matters
at planting-out-time, short, bushy stakes should be
I prepared during bad weather and tied up in bundles
j ready for use, as .ill plants should be staked
February 14, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
81
immediately they are planted. If left lying on
the ground only one night, it is just possible that
some may get eaten by slugs. Where they
are grown naturally for cutting purposes, there
is nothing better than good, long Hazel stakes,
and as these are eagerly snapped up nearer staking-
time, it is wise to order them beforehand and
get them pointed ready, the same remark applying
to posts. &c.. where the cordon system of training
is to be adopted.
Sowing Seeds in the Open. — There are still
a good many lovers of the flower who have neither
the time nor the convenience for raising their
plants under glass, and must perforce sow them
in the open ground. The date of sowing must,
naturally, differ according to the locality and the
nature of the soil ; but to get the flowers reasonably
early, sowing should not be delayed longer than
can be helped. On light soil the seeds may be put
in ahnost at once, but on heavy loams it might be
wise to defer it till the first week in
March. An inch to 2 inches in depth
is sufficiently deep to make the drills,
and two narrow drills are preferable to
a wider one ; but, whichever system
is adopted, more seeds must be sown
than will be needed as plants, thin-
ning them out later to a few inches
apart. Thomas Stevensox.
most arrangements have not half enough foliage
about them, and that nothing excels the plant's
own leaves for the purpose. I find in the early
weeks of blooming quite sufficient longish-stemmed
flowers to fill up, if there is too much green. .As
the season advances this does not seem necessary,
for I use lower, wider and shallower receptacles,
which suit the more bushy tops.
The idea of pots may be utilised for other pur-
poses besides cutting. The whole row may be
left to bloom, when it is capable of giving a fine
three weeks' show ; or individual pots may be
used for vacant spaces in borders by being plunged
in the soil. Necessity is the mother of invention.
It is enough for me to suggest, as I have done,
the utility of pots.
Sweet Peas and Tulips. — In conundrum
form it would be, " Why are Sweet Peas like
Tulips ? " The stock answer, " Because there
is a ' p ' in both," is quite true ; but it is too
A BEAUTIFUL SAXIFRAGE.
SAXIFRAGA BURSERIANA GLORIA.
THE first of the Cushion Sa.xifrages
which brighten my garden in the
earliest dawn of spring is S. burseriana ;
in fact, long before the official date
which separates spring from mnter.
Usually the first week in January
sees the blossom points in the close, greyish green,
hedgehog-like tuft begin to swell, and if we are
favoured with a reasonable amount of bright
light, these buds rapidly develop, taking on a
bright red hue. Should the conditions of our
variable climate then be less favourable (as they
not infrequently are), it is surprising how long
the embryo flowers will so remain. If, however,
as this year, the weather is bright and the tempera-
ture uKjderate, the buds push out upon stalks
SWEET PEAS IN
LARGE POTS.
When Garden Space is Limited.
— What a convenience an adjustable
garden would be ! When plants
are plentiful, just to turn a screw
and it is larger ; or, when some-
thing has gone wrong, to give a
twist the other way, and lo ! it ^
is smaller. For several seasons now,
when Sweet Pea sowing-time has
come round, I have wished for a
garden a size or two larger. The
naughty Daffodils and Tulips never
leave a square foot of ground for
anything else, and I must have
my Sweet Peas. ' Luckily for me,
I had some two dozen large pots
from 10 inches to 12 inches in
diameter, which it struck me might
be the means of solving the diffi-
culty. Four years ago these were
requisitioned, and the result has ever
since been most successful from a cutting-for-the-
house point of view.
I raise seedlings in cold frames in 3-inch pots, and
in due course, when they are about six inches to
eight inches high, I transfer them to these large
pots, which are then placed in a row alongside a
convenient wall, about a foot or rather less away
from it. Hence they are trained in the usual manner
on sticks, which are made firm by being attached
to a couple of wires (one higher and one lower)
stretched between two iron (m my case, but wooden
ones would do as well) posts, fixed permanently
at the ends. They do not get much food, for my
object is to induce short, sturdy growth, so as
to be able to cut the whole top of some of
the flowering shoots to furnish my vases with
greenery.
Everyone to his fancy in Sweet Pea arrange-
ment, as in other things. Personally, I think
A COLONY OF THE BEAUTIFUL SAXIFRAGA BURSERIANA GLORIA.
parochial and too " catchy." There is a real
reason. Both plants have for different reasons
been very useful to the botanist. No one will
ever forget the part the Sweet Pea has played in
Mendelian development. True, the abbot himself
used only the culinary Pea, but one has only to
turn to such a book as R. C. Punnett's " Men-
delism " (Plate IV.) to see how in subsequent
investigations the Sweet Pea itself has been used.
In a similar way the Tulip was used in the eighteenth
century. It is easy to see how its large and
simple-shaped flower made certain observations
comparatively easy and possible. As a definite
instance I would cite a small book by John Hill,
M.D. (i738)_, entitled " Method of Producing
Double Flowers from Single by a Regular Course
of Culture." Here the Tulip is the flower chosen,
on account, as the author says, of its size and
simplicity. Joseph Jacob.
some I J inches long and then open, displaying
beautiful, pearly white flowers of a satin-like
texture daintily crimped at the edges. The
stalks which support these lovely flowers are of
the rich red colour which characterises the buds,
the whole making a most attractive picture in our
alpine garden so early in the year. If the elements
are kind, or if a roof glass is arranged above the
tuft so as to protect the flowers from heavy rain,
it is surprising how long they will remain in good
condition, despite their delicate and fragile appear-
ance. The comparatively recent form known
as Gloria has flowers considerably larger than
the type, while the foliage also appears to be more
sturdy. The accompanying illustration of a
ver}' fine group grown and staged by Mr. Clarence
Elliott exhibits the attractive appearance of a
colony of this Saxifrage, and also indicates how
very effectively it can be disposed among the
82
THE GARDEN.
[February 14, 1914.
outcropping rocks iu our alpine garden. Of late
there has beea considerable controversy as to
whether it is a shade or sun lover. From the
small, narrow, pointed leaves it suggests that it
is an inhabitant of sunny districts, and here at
W lodford I grow it in a south-east aspect, where
4 feet to 6 feet in length. It is a familiar garden
plant, flowering in late March.
S. arguta. — The flowering season is from the
middle of April till late May (see illustration).
Height. ,1 feet to 5 feet.
S. ariaefolia. — .A strong-growing species, with
SWEET PEAS FOR GAR-
DEN DECORATION AND
CUTTING.
it receives the whole of the sun from early morning , plume-like panicles of creamy white flowers in June,
to 5 p.m., and, as I write, the diminutive growths S. japoniea. — This well-known species produces
are a mass of ruddy blossom points. I grow it a succession of flat clusters of very red flowers
iu a very free soil composed of sand, leaf-mould, from mid-June until the autumn. There are
old mortar, finely broken bricks and fibrous loam numerous varieties, of which the dwarf Bumalda,
about fifteen inches deep and superimposed on about two feet high, with heads of deep pink
6 inches of rough drainage. From .March to the bloom, is one of the bfst.
end of July I copiouslj' supply
it with water, which is, I believe,
an essential during their growing
season for the successful cultiva-
tion of these choicer Saxifrages.
When November arrives, and
with it the fogs and smoke so
well known to the suburban
dweller, I erect a roof glass
above the patch to intercept the
dirt and excessive rainfall.
There is one other point which
appears to me to be of con-
siderable importance, and that
is a thoroughly compacted root-
ing medium and very firm plant-
ing, whUe once or twice a year
I top-dress with a compost of
fine leaf-soil, small grit and silver
sand. For this purpose I
thoroughly dry the compost and
run it in between the tinv
growths on a fine, dry day. By
this means it is possible to fill
up the interstices between the
growths in a manner quite im-
possible if the top-dressing is iu
the slightest degree moist or the
plant clammy. Recently I have
tried S. burseriana in the moraine,
and it seems quite happy among
the moist grit.
Some growers propagate this
Saxifrage by means of cuttings.
If the necessary attention and
special skill is not available, a
more rapid method of increasing
one's stock is to take up a tuft,
say, in April, and after shaking
out the soil, carefully divide the
bunch of fine roots. It will be
found quite easy to cut up a
patch as large as one's hand
into ten or twenty plants, each
with ample roots to support it.
and if these are potted firmly in
the above-mentioned compost and
kept moist and "close" for a
week or so, they rapidly make
sturdy plants. They can, with care, be planted out
into the rock garden direct. R. A. Malbv.
A MO
A
SPIK.EA ARGUTA,
BEARING CLUSTERS
SPRINGTIME.
OF WHITE FLO\VI;rS IX
SHRUBBY SPIR^AS.
By making a selection of shrubby Spiraeas it is
possible to have a succession of bloom throughout
the greater part of the year. One of the first, if
not the first, to open its blooms is
Spiraea Thunbergii, producing clusters of white
flowers un slender shoots. It is well suited for
planting on raised banks. Height, 3 feet.
S. prunifolia flore pleno. — The double white
flowers are profuseh- b'lrne on arching shoots from
S. Douglasii. — In July and August this is one
of the most charming of the shrubby Spirjeas.
The flowers are deep rose and freely borne on a
dense mass of closely packed shoots.
S. lindleyana. — .\ very lieautiful Himalayan
species witli white flowers disposed in large
terminal panicles. The flowering season is Sep-
tember, and it grows to a height of 6 feet or 8 feet.
Unfortunately, it can only be recommended
with safety for Southern gardens. In Devon
and Cornwall it grows luxuriantly. With this
exception, all of the foregoing are perfectly hardy,
and nia\- he gmwu in anv good garden soil.
MONG annuals there is none lo rival
Sweet Peas for cutting, and during
the last ten or fifteen years their
rapid rise in popularity has added
considerably to the attractiveness of
our garden borders. The reason for
this is not far to seek. In the first instance, the
seeds are verv cheap to purchase, no annual is
easier to grow, and the plants pro-
duce quantities of flowers in almost
every shade of colour. While
for the purposes under discussion it
is unnecessary to study the details
of cultivation so closely as must
be done to gain honours on
the exhibition table, the main
points must be followed if we
are to get the best results from
the plants to brighten our gar-
dens and homes. Practically any
garden, within reason, in town,
suburb and country on which
the sun shines in this isle will
grow, or may be made to grow.
Sweet Peas. The worst to deal
with is a small, confined and stuffy
town garden. Trench the ground
2 feet deep in autumn or early
winter, and work in plenty of
old decayed manure. In many
gardens this will be sufficient soil
preparation ; in others much
more must be done if success is
to attend our efforts. Very light
soils should be improved bj-
adding plenty of cow-manure
and top-spit loam. Heavy clay
soils will benefit by frequent
working and throwing up roughly
in winter for frost and rain to
improve it. Sand, road grit, wood-
ashes, leaf-mould and basic slag
will all assist to improve clay soils.
The Time to Sow Seeds.— To
produce a display or supply t>i
blooms o\'er a long season from the
end of May to October, it is
necessary to make at least three
sowings — October (or September
in the North), February, and the
end of March. For preference the
two earlier sowings shotdd be
made in a cold frame or cool green-
house, removing the plants lati r
when about an inch high to a
cold frame ; and the third sowing
outside.
Sowing Outside. — The drills or rings in which
Sweet Pea seeds arc to he sown should be about
three inches deep, this amount of soil being covered
over the seeds when sown. To facilitate watering
in summer on light soils, the rings or drills may
be prepared 3 inches or 4 inches lower than the
general level of the garden. Sow the seeds thinly ;
it is waste to do otherwise, because later the young
plants must be thinned to not less than 6 inches
apart. Some growers prefer nearer a fool. The
question of clumps versus rows of Sweet Peas is an
oft-discussed point, the .answer being that exceJleiit
flowers are obtained bv both methods, always
February 14, 1914-]
THE GARDEN.
83
providing that the plants in the rows have ample
space in which to grow. When large quantities of
flowers are required, rows are preferable ; but for
artistic effect in borders, groups or clumps of varying
sizes, according to the width and length of the bor-
der, are the best. There is no better place for a row
of Sweet Peas than planted as a screen to separate
the vegetable garden from the flower garden. Much
has been said and written about supports for Sweet
Peas, yet nothing has been found to equal sticks to
secure an artistic effect, and they should be used
if obtainable at a reasonable price, those of Hazel
■being the best. The average height of the stakes
required will be from 6 feet to 9 feet, according
to the nature of the ground and the position.
Mulching with some old decayed manure
during June, watering with clear water in dry-
weather, and occasional applications of liquid
and cutting. The orange pinks when Henry
Eckford and Earl Spencer were first introduced
did not cover themselves with glory in the border ;
but now we have Barbara and Melba, which are
both satisfactory. It would be very difficult to
find two growers in agreement respecting the twelve
best sorts. The following are all first rate : King
White, Clara Curtis, Barbara, Scarlet Emperor, R. F.
Felton, Mrs. E. Cowdry, May Farquhar, Rosabelle,
Elfrida Pearson, Edith Taylor, King Edward
Spencer and Agricola. .-V. O.
FIVE GOOD SWEET PEAS.
COLOURED PLATE 1487.
Among Sweet Peas of comparatively recent
introduction, the five shown in the coloured
good constitution and the flowers do not burn
so badly in the sun as many of tliis hue. They
are well placed on the stems and a good bunch is
very effective, either in the exhibition tent or used
for house decoration. It received an award of merit
from till' Royal Horticultural Society in 1912.
Debbie's Cream. — .As its name implies, this
variety, as well as Melba, was sent out by Me.ssrs.
Dobbie and Co. There are now quite a number r>f
cream varieties, but the one illustrated will take a lot
of beating. It is a very free-flowering Sweet Pea, and
for that reason is very effective in the garden, whi'e
for show purposes it leaves nothing to be desired.
R. F. Felton. — Those who saw the magnificent
bunches of this variety staged at the National
Sweet Pea Society's exhibition last year are not
likely to forget them. It is a very large flower
of a varying shade of blue, the blooms being large
A BEAUTIFUL ROW OF SWEET PEA KING WHITE, WITH WHITE CANUYTUl-T O.N THE OTHER SIDE OF THE PATHWAY.
manure will assist in the production of vigorous
growths and large, richly coloured flowers, borne
on long stalks over a lengthy period. When cut
frequently, there will be no flowers left to seed ;
but any that remain and fade on the plants must
he removed, leaving a few pods, perhaps about
the beginning of August, to mature sufficient
seeds for home sowing, though it is doubtful
economy when seeds are so cheap to purchase.
The Best Varieties. — The question of the
"best sorts for garden decoration and cutting can
"be dismissed in a few lines. Much more interest
and pleasure is obtained from an up-to-date
collection of named Sweet Peas than by growing
the same sorts year after year. I have yet to
iiee the Sweet Pea that holds a high place at
■exhibitions to-day which is unsuitable for the border
plate presented with this issue occupy a high
position. They are all good for garden decoration
and for exhibition.
Rosabelle. — This was raised by -Mr. .A. Malcolm
and put into commerce by Messrs. E. W. King
and Co. It is one of the prettiest of its colour.
The flowers are large and good, and placed well
on the stout, erect stems. It may best be described
as a giant Marjorie Willis.
King Manoel. — .-Vmong Sweet Peas of dark
maroon colour, this is a giant. The plants have
a vigorous habit, and the blooms are of excellent
substance. It was raised and distributed by Mr.
George Stark.
Melba. — This is an exceptionally dainty and
charming flower, the soft salmon orange tint
always appealing strongly to ladies. It has a
and well poised on the stems. It was raised and
sent out by Mr. Robert Bolton, and last year was
awarded the National Sweet Pea Society's medal
as the best new variety sent to the trials in 1912.
Under the society's rules it had to be grown at
the trials last year to see if it remained true before
the medal could be awarded.
SWEET PEA KING WHITE
This beautiful variety, shown in the accompanying
illustration, has already won high honours, having
secured an award of merit from the National Sweet
Pea Society and the Royal Horticultural Society.
It has very large flowers of excellent substance, and
is being introduced by Messrs. Alex. Dickson and
Sons, Hawlmark, Belfast, and Messrs. W. .A.
Burpee and Co., Philadelphia, U.S.A.
84
THE GARDEN.
[February 14. 1914.
ROSE-GROWING IN TOWN
GARDENS.
Ramblers and Their Uses. — In dealing with
rambling Roses, of which there are a great number
of species and hybrids, we have to consider, first
of all, the purpose for which they are required.
Those which do excellently as pillar Roses, or will
clothe and cover arches and pergolas most effec-
tively, often resent contact with walls ; and, on
the other hand, many which show to advantage
where all the shoots are trained against
a flat surface do not produce fresh
growths freely enough to make them
really useful for other purposes. The
ramblers most generally selected are the
wichuraianas and those of the multifiora
scandens type. Both of these classes are
immensely popular, and they include all
the finest varieties a town gardener can
employ for covering his arches and pergolas,
and will also do exceedingly well w'hen
fastened to tall pillars. They have, unfor-
tunately, a comparativelv short flowering
period (with few exceptions), but in that
time produce such masses of bloom, and
are, moreover, of such fine vigour and
habit, that no one need hesitate to plant
a few.
The Best Varieties. — The wichurai-
anas are generally to be preferred on
account of their greater immunity from
fungoid diseases, and of these there arc
so many good sorts that selection becomes
a difficult matter. The following are all
reliable : Hiawatha, single, crimson, white
centre ; Lady Gay, rose pink ; .Alberic
Barbier, creamy yellow ; Coquina, single,
pink shaded ; Leontine Gervaise, salmon
rose, tinted yellow; Debutante, light
pink ; Jersey Beauty, single, cream\-
yellow ; Excelsa, rosy crimson ; Gardenia,
light yellow to cream ; and White Dorothy
Perkins. All of these do well in towns,
and many might be added to the list.
Lady Gay is, I think, better than Doroth>-
Perkins, to which it is very similar, for
Ihough the latter has but little tendency
to mildew, the former is practically proof
against it, and in addition the flowers are
slightly larger and a shade deeper in
colour. The main priming of wichurai-
anas should be undertaken as soon as
possible after the bloom is over, and
completed before the end of the autumn.
This consists in cutting out from the base
as many of the old shoots as can be spared.
The strong, new growths are then tied
into place to provide the bloom for the
succeeding season, and where there is a
superabundance of these, the weakest ^
should be removed. In the spring little
remains to be done beyond removing
some of the late-started growths which have not
matured and arranging those that are retained so
that they will have as much air and light as possible.
Newly planted wichuraianas should be cut down
at once to within a foot of the ground, the object
being to induce plenty of strong growth from the
base. In dealing with climbers of all kinds, one
must be prepared to sacrifice the bloom for the
first year, and by s(j doing a great deal of time will
be saved in getting the plant established
satisfactorily.
Other Ramblers. — I have already hinted that
the multifiora scandens class is less desirable,
at all events to the town gardener, than the
wichuraiaua. Crimson Rambler, the most widely
grown in this section, is anything but a good town
Rose, for not only is it subject to mildew, but it
is also liable to attacks of black spot. Blush
Rambler, one of its progeny, is seemingly free
from these weaknesses, and is a very beautiful
Rose for an arch. Mrs. F. W. Flight (pink, semi-
double flowers) is also good. Tausendschon
(rose pink) is verv pretty and distinct, but too
quite worth growing, though the colour is scarcely
striking. Perpetual Thalia (white) blooms again
in autumn.
The pruning of multifioras follows closely that
of the wichuraianas, except that we get more
of the following laterals or strong non-flowering
shoots springing from the middle of other growths,
some of which must be retained. Basal growths
are seldom as numerous, and one can defer cutting
out those which have to be discarded until the
winter, which, of course, must be done in the
case of the perpetual-flowering kinds. One other
rambler is of the greatest use in towns ;
that is the sempervirens Felicite Perpetue.
This is a Rose for a bad spot, and it is
safe to say that it will thrive where very
few others would exist. Bleak or draughty
gardens seem to suit it, and it is even at
home on a wall facing north.
Wichuraianas seldom do well on walls
or fences, and multifioras are even less
suited for this purpose. When it is par-
ticularly desired to cover up a fence with
the former, the best method is to train
the stems up about a foot away from it,
securing them to stout stakes, and they
may then be carried and trained on to
a trellis or wire-work above the fence.
But there are many Roses better suited
for such a position, with which I will
deal in mv ne.xt article in the issue of
February 2S. P. L. Goddard.
— A CLUMP Ol' SWEET PEAS TRAINED
SIMPLICITAS NETTING.
apt to mildew. Tea Rambler, as its name implies,
claims kinship with another section, in which it
was originally classed, though the habit is that of
multifiora. It is best suited for a wall, and I
will refer to it again in dealing with Roses for
this purpose. The multifioras already include
some important breaks in the direction of con-
tinuous-flowering kinds, but these are at present
rather in the nature of a promise of good things
to come than a realisation of the ideal. Trier,
the first of these to arrive, is very perpetual and
ON
THE STAKING OF
SWEET PEAS.
M
UCH of the disease now prt-
\'alent among Sweet Peas,
in the opinion of the
majority of experts, could
be overcome if more atten-
tion were given to the prt-
\ention of checks during the early growth
if the plants. Checks due to climatic
influences cannot be held in control, but
I hose resultant from cultural neglect need
not occur. Experiments and observations
prove beyond a doubt that the plants
immune from disease during the flowering
period (when the disease is so rampantly
apparent) are those in which, from the
first, a steady, sturdv growth has been
maintained.
A Prolific Cause of Trouble is failing
to supply adequate support to the young
seedlings, which, in many cases, are
allowed to fall over the sides of the seed
pots or boxes and become injured, or they
are matted together in a tangled mass of
entwined tendrils, and separation for
planting out cannot be accomplished with-
out injury to practically every seedling.
Is it small wonder that such plants fall
a prey to the ravages of disease, when, as seed-
lings, their constitution has been wrecked through
careless neglect ?
Early Support Necessary. — Directly the first
tendril appears on the seedlings, the plants must be
given supports of some kind, and for this purpose
I know of nothing better than the twiggy, tops
of Hazel sticks, roimd which the young tendrils
quickly enfold themselves. If the seedlings
receive cool treatment, strong, stiff, erect growths
will result, and when the plants are 5 inches or
February 14, i9i4-'
THE GARDEN.
85
6 inches in height, they can be planted out.
Longer twigs should supplement those already in
use, and these should be such as will uphold the
plants until they reach the larger supports used
for the flowering period.
The Final Staking. — For the final staking,
having experimented with many substitutes, I
consider Hazel or Elm sticks the most satis-
factory, and so long as I can procure the sticks
I shall keep to this old-fashioned plan.
Method of Staking Rows.— The tallest and
twiggiest sticks should be firmly inserted in the
soil to the depth of 9 inches or 10 inches on either
side of the row. These may be arranged in either
an upright or a slanting position. Personally, I
prefer staking obliquely, as fewer sticks are needed,
and, if the main growth be tied in, the breaks
develop vigorously and a well-filled-out row of
Sweet Peas is obtained. To guard against the
ravages of strong winds, it is best to insert stout
stakes at intervals in the rows, and connect these
with wires woven through the sticks.
Clumps of Sweet Peas. — For staking clumps
in the flower border nothing equals sticks. The
newest and twiggiest ones should be neatly and
carefullv arranged, and these will harmonise well
with all other surrounding shrubs or flowers.
But sticks are not always to be had, therefore
some substitute must be used. Fig. 2 shows an
excellent arrangement made with thin Bamboo
canes, two stout stakes and three wire hoops,
and I think it is the most satisfactory substitute
for natural stakes, both from the point of view
of utility and artistic merit, and also that of
economy, as the materials needed to make the circle
will last several years, and can be easily put up
or taken down. The materials required are two
strong stakes 9 feet or 10 feet long, which should
be firmly driven into the ground about twenty
inches apart, and then three hoops put over them —
the first hoop a foot from the ground, the next
midway up, and the third fastened securely
near the top. Then ten or twelve lo-feet Bamboo
canes are arranged at intervals of 4 inches or
5 inches around the hoops and securely tied to
them. During the growing season, if the shoots
are tied in as often as necessary, excellent clumps
will be obtained.
Wire-Netting of large mesh arranged in a circle
round the stakes may be used instead of the
canes ; but I experienced complete failure with it,
as it has the disadvantage of becoming very hot
under the sun's rays and burning the plants,
thereby causing injury. For this reason it is the
least desirable of the substitutes for sticks, although
many growers use it, as it keeps the plants well
under control. The Simplicitas Patent Netting
for all climbing plants is easily fixed and removed,
and will serve for several years. For Sweet Peas
in rows I found it excellent, and Fig. i well illus-
trates a clump of Sweet Peas thus trained, showing
the advantages of the netting and also its one
fault of " sagging." I found that birds did not
like the see-saw they experienced when alighting
on it, therefore the plants were left alone, quite
a point in favour of the netting.
The foregoing notes refer chiefly to Sweet Peas
grown for decorative and garden purposes ; but
whatever method be used, it is essential that the
staking be done thoroughly. Exhibitors who
cultivate their plants on the cordon system find
that Bamboo canes or wires stretched upon a
framework are more useful for their purpose than
sticks, as the plants are denuded of every tendril
and each stem is trained separately. Of course,
tlie initial outlay is somewhat great, for iron or
wooden frames form the end supports and wires
are stretched from end to end, and to these the
10- feet or 12-feet Bamboo canes are securely
fastened. For keeping the stems in position, gal-
vanised rings, easy to fasten, are now procurable.
Users of them during the past season are loud
in praise of their utility, and declare them to be
almost indispensable. This method of culture
requires daily attention, for the plants are kept
rigidly disbudded, one, two, or three leads being
allowed to each plant. Flowers obtained by this
method are of enormous size, and, by the
" honours " they win, repay the necessary outlay
of money and care. However, the small grower
with limited time and means who grows only for
garden display will be well advised to use the
substitute as illustrated in Fig. 2, and if he is
unable to go to the trouble of tying in refractory
growths, these can be kept in by winding some
twine round and round the canes at intervals of a
few inches, to which the tendrils will readily cling,
although the effect of the clump is impaired thereby.
In conclusion, I tender my thanks to Messrs.
Dobbie and Co. for their kindness in allowing me
to illustrate these notes from photo-
graphs taken at their seed farm at
Mark's Tev, Essex. S. M. Crow.
Pinch the leader to induce lower buds to grow-
out strongly in early spring, not in autumn.
Do not wait till after planting out to begin to
kill slugs. Place small heaps of bran on the sites
(where Sweet Peas are to be grown) during autumn
and winter, and in mild weather visit them at night
with a lantern and kill all the slugs seen. I kil!
thousands of slugs during the winter months.
1 have satisfied myself long ago that frost does not
kill them. I am pretty well certain that tliey
dodge the cold weather by going down the worm-
holes.
Plant out about mid-.\pril when the weather
is favourable. Plant very firmly, but allow the top
2 inches or so of soil to be loose. Allow the weeds
to grow on either side up to within 6 inches or so
of the plants until the Sweet Peas are about one
and a-half feet high. This will sound like preaching
madness, but slugs feed on weeds, and if the
soil all around the plants is kept bare, they
have nothing else to eat and are much more
likely to " go " for the Sweet Peas. Do
not thin out, disbud or train until the haulm
is about fifteen inches high, if growing for
exhibition. Hammond T. Hinton.
SWEET PEA HINTS
FOR BEGINNERS.
PREPARE the ground as
early in autumn as con-
venient. Trench as
deeply as possible. If
there is very little depth
of good soil, take out
some of the subsoil and add any other
good earth — " mellowed " top spit
for preference. Use mixed farm-
yard manure, at least a year old,
bone-meal and soot throughout the
spits, except in the top spit, in
which use only bone-meal and soot.
Keep the original top spit as the
top spit. Tread all firmly except
the top 6 inches or so. Ridge the
soil at the top — two or three times
during the winter will not hurt.
Give a dressing of basic slag and
a little kainit (a good lot of the
latter if the soil is light) early in
winter; sulphate of potash in spring.
Get good seed — much preferably
English grown.
Chip all seeds and sow in sandy
soil, except " white " and grizzled
or wrinkled seed, which should be
sown in a pocket or depression about
half an inch deep, made with tlie
point of the finger and filled with sand.
Sow in autumn in pots during the
second week in October. Place a
few half-decayed leaves over the
crocks and three-quarters fill with
good top spit soil and a little leaf-
mould. The top quarter should be
rather poor soil. Winter in frames.
Pots to be sunk to the rims in ashes.
Put a good number of pieces of
Carrot among the pots and look at
them at night with a light ; kill
all the slugs seen.
2. SWEET PEAS TRAINED ON
CANES.
A CIRCLE OF BAMBOO
86
THE GARDEN.
[February 14. 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
Cherry Trees in Pots. — The early started
trees will now be in bloom, and should be freely
\entilated tmtil the flowering period is over.
Shake the trees several times dnring the early
part of the day in order to disperse the pollen,
and only employ sufficient fire-heat to keep the
house free from frost.
Melons. — The earliest plants will now be grow-
ing freely, and mav be stopped before they reach
the top of the trellis, as by this means numerous
side shoots will be produced, and on these the
young Melons will soon be noticeable. When
sufficient fruits are set, they should be regulated
to three or four on each plant. Keep the growth
well thinned in order to admit light among the
foliage, but do not sftip too many shoots at one
time. Water freely when necessary, but avoid
dabbling, as this is almost sure to prove fatal. Shut
up the house early in the afternoon, lightly syringing
the foliage at the same time. A night tempera-
ture of 70°, rising to 85° by day with sun-heat,
will suit them well. A second plantation should
now be made, and another sowing of seeds placed
\n small, clean pots for succession.
Pot Vines. — If these were started in November,
the Grapes will now be well forward and have com-
menced to stone. During this period the tempera-
ture should not exceed 70° at night, for, while the
seeds are in course of formation, there is a great
strain on the energy of the plant, although growth
may seem almost at a standstill. Be ver}- careful
in giving water at the roots, for if once allowed
to become too dry, the crop will suffer seriously.
When the berries recommence to swell, give
liberal supplies of manure-water at the roots.
Guano is one of the best manures for this purpose.
Keep the foliage well regulated and shut up the
house early in the afternoon, damping the floor
and walls at the same time.
Plants Under Glass.
Caladiums. — The tubers may now be started
into growth, either in boxes or small pots, and
as soon as sufficiently advanced they should be
potted into larger pots and placed on a gentle hot-
bed, as by this means growth will be much stronger
than if the plants are grown on an ordinary stage.
Achimenes. — Batches of these should be started
in heat from now till the middle of April. Shake
each variety out of the old soil separately, and
plant the tubers in a compost of fibrous loam,
peat and leaf-soil in equal parts, with sufficient
rough sand to keep the whole in a porous con-
dition. They are well adapted for growing in
baskets hanging from the roof of a warm con-
servatory, or they may be cultivated in pots ;
but in this case thorough drainage is indispensable,
and the addition of a little charcoal to the soil
will be an advantage. Place the baskets or pots
near the glass and syringe frequently with soft
water imtil growing freely, when a thorough
watering should be given.
Sweet Peas in Pots should not be allowed to
become stunted for want of potting, but let the
plants be carefully placed in larger pots in a com-
post of turfy loam and a little decayed cow-
manure. A well-ventilated structure with plenty
of light is the only place to grow them to perfection
for early flowering. A few fine t™gs should be
placed in each pot to keep the plants in an upright
position. Manure-water may be freely given
when the pots become well filled with roots, also
plenty of air may be applied.
The Flower Garden.
The Subtropical Garden. — The plants for this
part of the garden should be raised or increased
during the present month. Sow seeds of Ricinus,
.■\cacias and Eucalyptus. Such plants as these
afford a happy relief from the usual summer
bedding, and may be mtermixed with Lilies
that flower during the summer and autumn.
Hyacinthus candicans, large - flowered Cannas,
(jladiolus and Montbretias may all be associated
with them.
East Lothian Stocks should now be ready
for potting into 3-inch pots. Good rich soil should
be used, and the plants grown in a slightly heated
pit ; harden off as soon as large enough, and
plant out during .-^pril.
Hardy Fruit.
American Blight on Apple Trees. — The present
is a good tinte tti destrov this pest, and one of the
best remedies for the purpose is soluble paraffin ;
but a great deal depends on the way in whic.i
this or any other remedy is applied whether it
will be a success or not. The preparation should
be thoroughly worked into the affected parts of
the tree with a hand-brush. Spraying or syringing
is simply a waste of time and materia], as far as
this pest is concerned.
Spraying Orchard Trees. — Where trees arc
infested with lichen, they should be sprayed with
some approved solution, and this should be done
before the trees start into growth. For small
orchards the " Knapsack" Sprayer is the best,
and a quiet, still day should be chosen for the
purpose. The operator should wear long rubber
gloves.
The Kitchen Garden.
Sowing Seeds. — As soon as the state of the soil
will permit, a sowing of some of the earliest subjects
should be made. Turnip Early Milan may be
sown on a warm border with as little delay as
possible, but only a small quantity should be sown
at this early date, as many of the plants are likely
to run to seed. The main crop of Broad Beans
may also be sown now, and hardy kinds of Peas
sown at this date should be ready to gather by
the third week in June. For this purpose, nothing
among early Peas will give more satisfaction than
The Pilot, 3^ feet. Brussels Sprouts may now be
sown in the open, also Cabbage, Cauliflower and
Leeks. Lettuce sown in the open now should
be ready to cut in the first week of June. Pioneer,
May King and Balloon are good for this purpose.
Carrots may also be sown in the open for pulling
in June.
Globe Artichokes. — The present is a good
time to make plantations of these. Let the ground
be trenched and manured, plant suckers from the
best plants, and allow a space of 4 feet between
the plants each way.
Potatoes may now he planted in cold pits
or under a south wall, where protection can be
given without causing an eyesore.
Radishes may now be sown on a south border
and protected from birds by netting.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Plans for Cropping. — At this season of the yeii
it will be w( 11 to make a rough sketch of the vege-
table (juarters and arrange the plots for the season's
cropping. This will prove verj' helpful during the
busy season, for, as spring advances, one has usually
more to do than one can find time for. Many-
gardeners grow such crops as Carrots and Onions
year after year on the same ground, and still get
very good results. As a rule, however, it would
not be wise to recommend this plan. Such crops
as Potatoes, Leeks, Carrots and Beet should be
followed by Peas, Beans, Onions and most of the
Brassica tribe.
Shallots. — If one can get tha-soil into working
order, no time should be lost in getting Shallots
planted. The ground will require to be moderately
firm, and plant the bulbs almost on the surface,
only sufficiently deep to keep them in position.
Chives. — Where the Chives have got overgrown,
the present will be a suitable time to make a frcsfi
planting, which should be on well-prepared soil.
Too often this useful vegetable is neglected, and,
being much earlier and milder than Onions, it
is a grand substitute for that crop for soups and
salads.
Seakale. — Roots secured from the forcing
crowns may now be placed in boxes of sand and
stood in a cool Peach-house. These will soon
commence to grow, and will be ready to plant
out some time in March.
The Flower Garden.
Carnations. — Border Carnations which have
been wintered in cold frames may be planted
any time now, provided the soil can be sot into
a fit state. The late Mr, Martin Smith told the
writer that, in preparing ground for planting
Carnations, if one could make an impression
with the foot, it was not firm enough. Pe^-sonally.
I prefer planting in October ; but this is not always
convenient, or, I dare say, advisable, as some
experience great difficulty in' keeping them through
the \\iuter.
Dianthuses. — These will make a fine show,
and with very little expense. As advised for
Carnations from seed, great care will be necessary
to prevent the young seedlings from becoming
drawn, which will render them almost tiseless.
Sow now in moderate heat.
Petunias. — If one wishes to make a displav
of these beautiful annuals, it will be well to make
a sowing towards the end of this week. If time
and space permit, grow them on in pots instead
of boxes, and the little extra tr.iuble will nmplv
repay one.
Lobelias. — With the more free and easy style
of bedding now being adopted, Lobelias mav
very well be grown from seed instead of cuttings.
Seed sown now will make fine plants by May.
Should flowers appear before bedding-time, thev
ought to be cut off, which will materiallv prolong
the flowering period out of doors.
Kochia triehophylla. — In favoured districts
this will be found to make very interesting
and effective dot plants among the lower-growing
subjects in the flower g.arden. Sow the seed now
and grow on in pots, keeping the plants near ihe
glass.
Plants Under Glass.
Vallota purpurea. — At several important flower
shows last autumn I saw this grand old favourite
exhibited more than usual, and one was pleased
to come across it again. Manv made a note of it.
doubtless with a view to adding it to their collection,
and I consider it worthy of a place among the best
of greenhouse plants,' It is important at this
season to see that it does not suffer from the want
of water ; this has been the cause of many failures.
Calceolarias.— These extremely decorative plants
will now be ready to be potted into their flowering
pots, which should be 8 inches to 10 inches, accord-
ing to requirements. They should not be potted
too firm, and as they begin to fill the pots with
roots, feeding should' commence. It is surprising
in well-grown plants what an amount of artificial
feeding they will stand. Continue to keep the
plants near the glass without coming in contact
with cold winds.
Gardenias will now be showing flower-buds,
and may be treated liberally in the way of manure.
If planted out, it is a good plan to 'mulch with
farmyard manure. Pinch all growths that appear
round the bud ; these are often the cause of the
latter not opening properlv,
Bougainvilleas. — Where these are grown on
the roof of the plant stove, they should now be
pruned back and thorouglily washed. ,^ good
syringing with Quassia will generally rid them
of green or black flv, to whicli thev are verv subject.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Planting. — All hardy fruit may still be planted,
but it will not be wise to defer this work much
longer, as late-planted trees never get the same
chance to recover from the shift. In any case,
recently planted trees should have a mulching of
stable litter placed over the roots to protect
them from late frosts. Pruning and nailing of
all wall trees should be completed now.
Early Pears. — Some of the earlier varieties
will be showing flower, especially on sheltered walls
facing south. These should be protected either
by herring-nets or si
the eighty varieties I grow to be at-
tacked ; it is rather too creamy to be
a tip-top white. White Pearl is a
very good waved variety, but hardly
robust enough, and gav.' out rather
early in the season. Freda is a great
pleasure to me, as it throws fours in
profusion on very long stems ;
perfectly fixed. I picked flowers from
the middle of May up to the end of
October ; the plants reached over
fifteen feet in height. Moneymaker
is also very .good, with strong, lasting
petals. Florence Wright has not been
so strong, and has not bloomed so
freely. Nora Unwin is still a very
line garden variety, but not so good
for exhibition.
Now for the scarlets which I have
grown. Scarlet Monarch is not large
nor robust enough and only throws
tlirees, but lasts in bloom very well ;
in fact, it is the best in that respect.
Red Star I think the very best scarlet
up te> date. It throws fours in great
quantity, and grows quite 15 feet high.
.Scarlet Emperor is also very good,
but does not throw fours in quantity,
as exhibition varieties must do. Vermilion Brilliant
is also a favourite of mine, although its fault with
me has been that its blooming season is short. It
is a medium grower and quite fixed. Regarding
lavenders, W. P. Wright has been very disappoint-
ing. I tried two small packets of seed. One I put
in a clump, but only three plants grew, and they
turned out two dirty whites and a violet maroon.
Front the other packet I had eight plants. One
was a dirty wliite, another a plain standard
Lavender, and the rest quite good. True Lavender
has been perfect, all the flowers being pure and
good ; if there is a fault, it is that I should like
to see rather more colour in the blooms. In dark
mauves I can pick two good ones, viz., Queen of
Norway, which is first class, and Tennant Spencer
a very good second. Of light mauves, I am just
going to mention two which I consider the cream
of the lot. R. F. Felton is a very fine grower
and throw's plenty of fours, but my fancy is Mrs.
Heslington, a very robtist gre>wer, and I pickeel
blooms with 12-incli stems.
Paimnton, Dei'on. lior!.\CK II. Kmcht.
GARDEN.
-y^-
-V*
J^
.^r
No. 2205.— Vol. LXXVIII.
February 21, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
A Miniature Daffodil. — Just now the dainty \ and Shiner among the claret-edged kinds, and
little flowers of Narcissus minimus are unfolding \ Rose Barton, His Reverence and W. E. Gumbleton
in the outdoor garden, opening as it were the ' among the green and the yellow ones, are distinct
Daflodil season. It is impossible to praise this advances on most of the older sorts. Cawston
perfect little gem too much. It is a true trumpet Gem and Nelsonii, however, still hold their own.
variety, yet it is but 3 inches high and not more The six new varieties just mentioned were all
than half an inch in diameter. The colour is rich , raised by Sir Frederick Moore at Glasnevin.
yellovv, and for planting in little nooks in
the rock garden or other sheltered places
we know of nothing more pleasing. It is a
native of Spain, and should be freely
planted where early outdoor flowers are
appreciated.
Transplanting Alstroemerias. — The
genus Alstroemeria, or Herb Lily, was at
one time much more largely grown than it
is at present. Why the plants have dropped
out of favour is not easily understood, for
few plants need less attention to grow them
successfully, either in pots or in the open
ground. The present time is the most suit-
able for transplanting them. The ground
should be well trenched and the tubers
placed from 6 inches to 9 inches deep.
They seldom succeed if planted near the
surface. When once established they will
continue to brighten the garden for many
years, and the handsome flowers are excel-
lent for cutting, remaining fresh for a
long time.
An Attractive Acacia for a Small
Greenhouse. — The Silver Wattle (Acacia
dealbata), better known to many people
as Mimosa, is undoubtedly the best of the
genus, and is an excellent plant for helping
to furnish a large conservatory where it has
room to grow into a good-sized tree. But
those who possess only a small greenhouse
will find a very valuable substitute in A.
longifolia. Plants of this beautiful species
can be grown in pots, and will flower in a
small state from 2 feet to 3 feet high and
upwards ; they are very oroamental with
their graceful sprays of flower intermixed
with the beautiful blue Coleus thyrsoideus.
Bv cutting back the Acacia as soon as the
flowering period is over, dwarf, compact
plants can be obtained.
Laclienalias in Small Pots. — February being
the month when with cool greenhouse treatment
these bulbs are in flower, we would like to call
our readers' attention to their value as plants
to grow in dwarf pots. Nine or ten bulbs in a
6-inch pot make a fine show. They are a welcome
change from the usual spring flowers, and, what
is a strong point in their favour, they are very
lasting when in bloom. Some of the newer
varieties, such as Brightness, John Geoghegan
NARCISSUS MOSCHATUS OF HAWORTH, A SMALL-
FLOWERED VARIETY SUITABLE FOR THE ROCK GARDEN.
The Danger of New Pots.— It is very probable
that the deleterious effects of new pots on the
roots of certain plants are unknown to some of
our readers. Most people are content to soak
them in water before using them for the first
time, in order to prevent undue absorption of
moisture from the soil. This operation, however,
docs not remove the offending something that
causes the roots to turn brown and ultimately
decay wherever they come into contact with the
new surface. Hyacinths are among the number
of those which are thus affected, and it was our
seeing a collection in which this was very marked
that has led us to insert this warning. The only
safe plan is to bury all new pots in the ground
for six or eight weeks before they are used tor the
first time. This effectually removes their sting
and makes them as harmless as old
ones.
Narcissus moschatus of Haworth. —
This small white Spanish Daffodil created
a deal of interest when shown in quantity
by the Wargrave Plant Farm at a
recent meeting of the Royal Horticul-
tural Society. It is a miniature Daffodil
with a creamy white trumpet, attaining
a height of about nine inches. This
variety is recommended for the rock
garden, and when planted in nooks
among the rockwork and left undis-
turbed will become established : nd
make a charmuig show. It is also
adapted for naturalising on grassy slopes
facing North in partial shade.
The Government and Horticulture.—
The first report of the horticulture branch
of the Board of Agriculture has just been
published, and gives us a good insight to
the work that is being done by this newly
constituted branch. So far, plant diseases
appear to have been the principal items
dealt with, and it is a good sign to find that
active steps are being taken to stamp out
such as Gooseberry mildew, wart disease
of Potatoes, Larch sawfly and the silver-
leaf disease. The export trade in agri-
cultural and horticultural produce is also
receiving serious attention, and on the
whole the report is a satisfactory one.
Copies can be obtained through Messrs.
Wyman and Sons, Fetter Lane, E.G.,
price 2S. 2d. each.
Sowing Hollyhock Seed.— Owing to
the disease affecting these noble plants
for many j'ears past, the method of
propagating them by cuttings has almost
died out. The best way to ensure a
good display of flowers is to treat
the plants as biennials, sow the seeds in
September, and winter the young plants in a
clean cold pit. By this means a good dis-
play of early flowers may be obtained. But
good results may also be had by sowing
in February and placing the pans or boxes over
gentle bottom-heat. As soon as the seedlings arc
large enough to handle, they should be potted
into 3-inch pots and grown in a pit with a tempera-
ture of 60° and quite near the roof glass.
90
THE GARDEN.
[February 21, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
[The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
Staking Sweet Peas. — In last week's excellent
article mi " Staking Sweet Peas," by S. M. Crow,
he mentions the one fault of sagging in " Sim-
plicitas " Patent Netting Circles. May we, as
the inventors, be allowed to point out that we
are this season eliminating this very small fault
in an otherwise perfect support by the intro-
duction of a centre wooden ring. We have also
introduced an iron foot to prevent the centre
stake from working loose in the soil. — The
Boundary Chemical CoiMPanv. Limited.
Earwigs Eating Buddleia Foliage. — I notice- in
The Garden, page xvi., issue February 7, under
"' .Miscellaneous," in the " Ar«wers to Corre-
spondents," a note to an enquiry about earwigs
eating Buddleia, and you seem r?ther sceptical
were only too well aware of the irregular and
sluggish behaviour of the bulbs. They had not
responded to heat as they should have done,
and in some cases the bulb was blind. It was
pointed out by two large dealers that the season of
I9t3 was about two weeks earlier than that of
1912, whereas their Hyacinth bulbs were lifted
at the date in both years. It is always uiiwise
and risky to generalise on a too limited experience,
and this is what, I fear, has been done. A longer
acquaintance with the practice %vill either " kill
or cure " it. Meanwhile we must go " steady,"
until this experimental stage has been passed.
I would also like to say that I am by no means
sure that I was right in what I said about bottom-
heat. I find that there are advocates both for
giving and withholding it, but that the majority
favour it if it is not too strong. — Joseph Jacob.
Two Useful Midwinter-Flowering Plants.—
After the Chrysanthemum season is passed there
is often a slump in plants suitable for the decora-
A FRUITING SPRAY OF THE SEA BUCKTHORN.
about it. 1 have a plant of B. variabilis on my
house which is quite spoilt by earwigs every
summer, some of the leaves being eaten or torn
to, tatters and hanging by shreds. The young
flower-sp kes also have the ends eaten off.
I have not the smallest doubt about earwigs
being the culprits ; they seem quite mad after the
Buddleia. Two other trees of B. variabilis in the
garden in the open are not much attacked. I trap
the earwigs in the usual way in brown paper,
and have also had to spray the trees with arsenate
of lead, which, I presume, settles the pests,
though I have not had the satisfaction of seeing
the corpses. — C. G. O. B., Farnham.
Prepared Hyacinths. — With reference to an
article from my pen which appeared in The
Garden for August 9, 1913, on " Prepared
Hyacinths," I am sorry to say that they have
not been the success this season that previous
experience led me to anticipate. When I was
lately in Holland, 1 found that the Dutchmen
tion of the cool greenhouse or conservatory.
It is not everyone who has the means and con-
venience to fill their greenhouse or conservatory
at this time of the year with expensive forcing
plants and bulbs. Neither is it desirable to do
so when plants less expensive, but none the less
beautiful and useful, can be grown. The two
plants which are the subject of this note are
easily grown, and require nothing more than shelter
from frost from the time the cuttings are rooted.
The first is Salvia Heeri, which flowers during the
greater part of January and February. The
flowers are brilliant scarlet, borne on long, slender
spikes or branches. They are most useful for
cutting for indoor decoration, as they last for a
considerable time in water. Like most other
members of this race, they may be readily
increased by cuttings inserted in sandy soil in the
spring and placed under a hand-light. When
established in pots, they should be grown in an
exposed situation out of doors, and kept there
till there is danger of frost. The second plant is
Eupatorium vemale, which many readers of
The Garden will be well acquainted with. The
requirements of these two plants are practically
identical, except that the latter, being of dwarfer
habit, may be accommodated in a cold frame til]
the end of the year. — E. Harris, Lockinge.
Is the Sea Buckthorn Poisonous ? — Reterrmg
to the observations on wild birds and the Sea
Buckthorn under " Notes of the Week," issue
January 10. can it be that the berries of this
native shrub are poisonous, and is this the reason
why, in some parts of the country at least, the
berries remain imtouched by birds even in a hard
winter ? So far as the alleged poisonous proper-
ties of the berries are concerned, there is an
amusing reference which I have seen quoted from
Rousseau's'' Reveries VII. Promenade." After eat-
ing a quantity of berries, which he found " very
pleasant," he was warned that they were poisonous.
" Nevertheless," he says, " I felt as I feel now,
that every natural production that is pleasant
to the taste cannot be harmful unless perhaps
through excess. I confess, however, that I kept
a watch on myself for the rest of the day, but,
beyond a certain uneasiness, I felt no Ul-eficcts.
I supped very well, slept better, and rose in the
morning in perfect health, having swallowed
the evening before some fifteen or twenty of the
berries of this terrible Hippophae, a small quantity
of which is poisonous, as they told me at Grenoble
the next day." To the present \vriter the berries are
unpleasant, but, is it really true '* that every natural
production that is pleasant to the taste cannot be
harmful unless perhaps through excess? " — C. Q.
Saxifraga burseriana. — While the bruit of
mortal conflict between Mr. Reginald Farrer
and Mr. Clarence Elliott respecting the habitat
of S. burseriana is still ringing in our ears, I think
a few remarks concerning this dainty and early
flowering alpine may be apposite. Whatever
may be the behaviour of S. burseriana in shade.
I think a glance at some plants of it which I have
growing upon a moraine should convince the
most sceptical that, subject to what I say about
water supply, a position in full sunlight conduces
towards a plentiful display of blossom. On each
of three clumps not exceeding 3 inches in diameter
I counted early in February upwards of thirty
flower-spikes. The moraine in question is de-
scribed by me in a chapter upon rock gardens
which will be found at the end of " Gardens for
Small Country Houses," bj' Miss Gertrude Jekyll
and Mr. Lawrence Weaver. To one who knows
how apt all Saxifrages are to " burn " in fierce
sunlight, it goes without saying that a plentiful
supply of water is necessary for S. burseriana
during the summer. In the case of my moraine,
this supply is provided by means of a perforated
pipe. The initial expense of such an installation
is soon paid for by the saving in labour of hand
watering thus effected, and also by the decreased
wastage of plants which might otherwise perish
through drought, .As the result of the accidental
inclusion of one clump of the Saxifraga beneath
a sheet of glass provided to meet the wants of
the damp-hating .Androsace sarmentosa, I am
able to say that the effect of covering this Saxi-
irage with glass during the winter months upon
its flowering are very slight indeed. Glass for
protecting the opened flowers is another matter.
I confirm all that has been said as to the desirability
of heaping up dry chips of rock round the necks
of moraine plants during the winter. — Raymond
E, Negus, Walton-on-Thamcs.
February 21, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
91
PEAT MOSS MANURE
IT INJURIOUS P
IS
Several enquiries have reached us recently
as to the advisability of using peat moss litter
manure in the garden. There is no doubt that in
some instances, where it has been dug into the soU
fresh from the stables, it has proved injurious to
plant-life, though as a top-dressing it has proved
excellent. Owing to the increasing difficulties
in obtaining straw manure, this question is one
of vital importance. We therefore invited the
opinions of a number of scientific and practical
men in various parts of the United Kingdom.
Herewith we publish a selection of these, and it
will be seen that there is some difference of
opinion on the subject.
Given the choice between manure made from
peat moss or straw, I should use the latter. It
gives the best results in the long run. The peat
moss manure, though, is distinctly valuable,
especially on light soils, which dry out quickly.
Once it is thoroughly moist, it retains its water
supply in a fashion all its own, and the plant
roots can get at it even when the surrounding soil
is dried out. I have never seen it acting injuriously,
but it is only right to say I have only seen it used
on the extensive scale for the culture of vegetables.
Cambridge. R. H. Biffen.
I FEAR I cannot give you any very definite infor-
mation about peat moss litter as manure. I
know that when kept for some months, and when
turned a couple of times, it is an excellent sur-
facing for Primulas, Wallflowers, &c. I tried
it here one year with some vegetables, and with
some Primula seedlings as a manure, and in both
cases the result was not satisfactorj^, and the
men have a great prejudice against it as a manure.
It makes no difference to them in any way ; hence
they have no interest in the matter, and as it is
easier for them, to work than cow-manure, I
came to the conclusion that there must be some
grounds for their dislike of it. I was not at all
satisfied that it was in fault as regards the seedling
Primroses ; but the man in charge of them, an
experienced man, still strongly maintains that
it was the manure. Personally, I prefer cow-
manure if I can get it, or even well-decayed stable
litter. We found that for small stuff and for ground
where bulbs were that the most useful and safe
manure was old hot-bed material, used the following
spring ; that is to say, hot-beds which were made
up in January, rgis, are now being used as manure.
This is very well decayed and crumbles dovro
easily. F, W. Moore.
Royal Botanic Gardens, Glasnevin.
Personally, I would prefer peat moss litter
manure to straw manure. The original acidity
of the peat absorbs a high percentage of ammonia,
and is, therefore (all other factors being the same),
of higher available nitrogen value than straw
manure. In addition, it has a distinct value
from a physical point of view ; it raises the water-
holding power of the soil. I know of a garden
close to this city where peat moss litter manure is
used entirely, and the gardener believes absolutely
in it as a good crop producer. I have in my own
gardening found it excellent for herbaceous
borders. D. Houston.
Royal College of Science for Ireland, Dublin.
Your letter of February 7 has been referred
to me for reply. Experiments at this College have
shown the absorptive power of good peat moss
litter to be about three times as great as that of
straw, but different samples vary considerably
in their power of absorbing liquids. At the Arm-
strong College, Newcastle, for example, it was
found that one sample absorbed eleven times
its own weight of water, while another sample
took up only nine times its own weight. Chemi-
cally, peat moss contains more nitrogen than straw,
but considerably less potash and a little less
phosphoric acid. Average analyses made at this
College are as follow :
Ptiat Moss. Straw.
Per cent. Per cpMt.
Nitrogen .. .. 0-8 .. o'S
Phosphoric acid .. o'l .. o'3
Potash .. .. 0'2 .. i'5
The nitrogen in peat mo5s, though greater in
quantity, is probably less available to the plant
than that in straw, so that peat moss in itself
may be considered to be of less manurial value
than straw. But, owing to its greater absorptive
power, the manure made from peat moss litter is
richer than manure made from straw, as the
following analyses made by Dr. Dyer (see
" Standard Cyclopadia of Modern Agriculture ")
show :
Stable Manure
made wltfi Straw.
Arerage of 3 samples.
Pe'' ant.
Stahle Manure
made with Peat Moss.
Average of 2 samples.
Par cent.
Water . . 70*03
.. 77-84
Organic matter 24*28
l8-02
Phosphoric acid 0*48
0-37
Lime . . . . o* 70
0-33
Potash .. 0-59
I ■ 02
Magnesia, &c. 1-30
I -08
Siliceous matter 2-62
1-34
100 • 00
TOO* 00
Total nitrogen 0-62
0*88
It will be noticed that the peat moss manure
contains a good deal more potash than the straw
manure, although the peat moss itself was deficient
in potash. The difference is due, of course, to
the potash absorbed from the excrement of the
animals. Peat moss manure contains more
nitrogen than straw manure, and more potash,
but a little less phosphoric acid and less lime. The
physical effect of peat moss manure in the soil is,
of course, rather different to that of straw manure,
because the manure is always " short." We have
used both here, but have not noted anything
harmful about the peat moss. I am writing to a
farmer who has had considerable experience with
it, and will let you know what he says in due course.
G. H. Garrad.
South-Eastern Agricultural College, Wye, Kent.
In reply to yours re peat moss litter, we do not use
it here as a manure, as we have not found that
which we have had from London satisfactory.
F. R. Wilkinson (Principal).
The Horticultural College, Swanley, Kent.
Peat moss litter is best dug into the ground,
as if left on the surface the pieces of peat are
somewhat of a nuisance, as they do not decay
readily. This manure, however, adds to the
acidity of the soil and thus has a slightly deterrent
effect on the growth of vegetation, and its value
is more due to the fact that it soaks up liquid
manure, and thus saves fertility that would run
to waste, rather than to its own manurial value.
The fibre is, of course, good for " opening up "
a stiff soil, but, ton for ton, good stable manure
is superior. P. McConnell.
My experience with peat moss litter manare
is neither very extensive nor very recent ; still, I
have used it in the kitchen garden here, and both
as a mechanical agent on our heavy soil and
as a manure the results were quite satisfac-
tory. I have also used it with good resu ts in
Rhododendron culture. Since receiving your
letter I have interviewed two of our best and most
extensive farmers whom I knew used it largely.
One of them always mixes it with straw manure
from the local dairies, with excellent results with
a"l kinds of farm crops. The other uses it alone,
although be a'so uses some straw manure ; but
he says if he could get sufficient peat moss litter
for his 400 acres, he would use nothing e'.se. Both
of these farmers pay about £3 los. per acre, and
they grow Potatoes extensively. I have had the
opportunity of observing the operations of a
market-gardener within the municipal boundaries
of Edinburgh for over thirty years. This man
grows vegetables exclusively, and uses no other
organic manure than peat moss litter. He grows
excellent crops of all kinds of vegetables, as he
would require to do, for he pays £10 per acre for
his land and has to pay the City rates.
Charles Comfort.
Broomfield Gardens, Davidson^ s Mains, Midlothian.
I HAVE seen peat moss litter manure used largely,
with very good results ; in fact, I know a farmer
who uses this in preference to any other manure
for such crops as Potatoes, Swedes, Mangel
Wurzel, &c., on heavy land. For my own part
I would give preference to straw manure.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
I HAVE used peat moss litter manure from stab'.es,
where the horses are regularly hard fed, for several
years in fairly large quantities, but mostly for
top-dressing herbaceous and Rose borders. Begonias
and, indeed, almost all summer-bedding plants,
also for all sorts of fruit trees and bushes, and
I think it one of the best manures for this purpose.
I never now dig it in ; the residue is usually
raked off and burnt along with other garden
rubbish. For kitchen garden purposes I think
it inferior to straw manure, as on one occasion
a very large proportion of my Potato crop rotted
after an application of it dug in in the usual
manner, and this, too, in a season when Potatoes
did remarkably well under other conditions.
I may add, however, that I used it for two years
in succession on the flower garden beds, diggin?
it in, without any bad results ; but, as I have
not continued to use it thus, I am not in a position
to say how long it would take to prove detrimental
to the occupants of the flower-beds.
Thomas Wilson.
The Gardens, Glaniis Castle, Glamis, Forfarshire.
FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
February 24. — Royal Horticultural Society's
Meeting and Exhibition. Lecture at 3 p.m. on
" The Uses of Explosives and of the Blow
Lamp."
February 26. — Manchester and North of England
Orchid Society's Meeting. Royal Botanic Society's
Meeting.
February 27. — Finchley Chrysanthemum So-
ciety's Annual Meeting. Beckenham Horticu'tural
Society's Meeting.
92
THE GARDEN.
[February 21, 1914.
BOWLING GREENS.
1 will materially assist in laying the- turves level. ,
To secure uniformity in the thickness of the i
JHE game of bowls, the national game turves, they must all be passed through a mould
of Scotland, has made rapid strides or shallow box. This is i inch, ij inches or
in popular favour all over England 2 inches deep, according to the nature of the soil, j
during the last ten or fifteen years, and i foot square or 15 inches by i foot. Each 1
There is ample evidence of this in our turf is turned grass downwards in the box, beaten '
public parks and pleasure grounds, down to make it flat, and whatever soil and roots
all the most enterprising of our municipal corpora- remain above the level of the mould is cut off
tions providing greens, the number of which are ' with an old scythe blade, as shown in the illus-
T
ROSES ON WALLS AND
FENCES.
w
HEN quite bare, most of our
walls and fences are somewhat
unsightly. It also seems a
waste to let such valuable space
remain unoccupied. Few, if
any, subjects could possibly
tration. By this means every furnish such walls with so pleasing a beauty
turf is exactly the same size
and thickness, and there are
no broken comers. The turves
must not be laid straight
across the green, but irom
as well-selected and judiciously placed Roses.
I write the last three words with a real mean-
ing ; for how often do we find Roses placed
to the very best advantage ? In almost all
cases the lower portions of our walls and
comer to comer, the join of | fences are bare after the first year or two.
two turves being in the middle : Both this bareness and the lesser show of
of the one next to it, as the bloom that comes after the first early glut ol
bricklayer lays his bricks. If j flowers from the long growths of the previous season
this is not done, there may ] can be minimised by placing some of our free
be ridges all down the green, j growers and bloomers between the taller-habited
formed where the turves join ' varieties.
A BOWLING GREEN IN THE MAKING. THE WORK MUST BE
FREQUENTLY TESTED WITH STRAIGHT - EDGE AND
SPIRIT-LEVEL.
being added to every year. It is also interesting
to record that so popular is the game, the initial
cost of construction is soon recovered by a small
charge to the players. The charge made by one
prominent corporation is one penny per half-hour
for each player, this fee showing an average return
of £40 per year for each bowling green maintained
by that body. The first consideration is the
selection of a site suitable for a bowling green.
The position must be an open one, so that every
portion of the playing pitch gets the maximum
amount of air and sunshine. A full-size bowling
green is 42 yards square. The piece of ground
selected should not be much under 50 yards square,
and fairly level. Greens half this width 'are some-
times made, when there are only a few players
to cater for ; but if the green is square, it permits
of the play changing from the ends to the sides
in alternate days or weeks, so that the ground
is not wom in one direction. For the game of
bowls it is more important than in any other
sport played on grass to have a level surface.
A perfect green should be as level as a billiard-
table. Having understood this, it will be readily
recognised how important every detail in the
making of a green must be studied.
The initial outlay will depend largely on the
nature of the subsoil. One that is very porous
need not have any brick rubble put in for drainage,
the layer of ashes being sufficient. The making
of bowling greens on heavy clay soils entails much
more work. The ground must be excavated to
a depth of r.-i inches ; if waterlogged, pipes must
be put in for drainage. Fill in to a depth of
6 inches all over the position of the green with
brick rubble and clinkers. With rammers make
this as firm as possible. Next spread 3 inches
of fine ashes all over, placing on this 3 inches of
good soil ; this also must be made very firm,
otherwise in a year or two it will sink and spoil
the even surface of the turf. A thin layer of fine
sand should be spread over the surface, which
m rows.
Only the best turf is suit-
able for a bowling green, the
procuring of this often being
the most expensive item con-
nected with the work. Where
the price is prohibitive, a
good bowling green can be
made with good grass seeds
in two years. September is
the best month for sowing. Firms who specialise
in grass seeds — Messrs. Carter, Raynes Park, and
Messrs. Sutton, Reading, for instance — supply a
special mixture for bowling greens, or a mixture
may be made up of two parts of Crested Dog's-tail
Grass (Cynosurus cristatus) and one part fine-
leaved Sheep's Fescue Grass (Festuca ovina
For example, no Roses will do better upon a \vM
than Marie van Houtte, Catherine Mermet, Lady
Roberts, Molly Sharman Crawford, Lady Ashtown,
the white and pink Maman Cochets, Bridesmaid,
and, in fact, numbers of our most beautiful Teas
and their numerous hybrids, the mere names
of which would occupy far too much space.
Oftentimes, too, these free growers will cover
a wall up to 10 feet and 15 feet. But my
main object now is to pomt out their extreme
usefulness, both as an aid to the better fur-
nishing of the wall and to keep up a more
continuous crop of blooms.
Last year I noticed some good examples of this
combination of climbers and our extra free dwarfer
growers. In one case the climbers had gone
quite 25 feet or 30 feet up the front of a house
tenuifolia). The preparation of the green for raised upon a terrace. The sorts most used were
seed-sowing is the same as for the turf, except that L'Ideal (extra good for this), Reve d'Or, Climbing
instead of the turf, 2 inches of fine mould should Perle des Jardins, Reine Marie Henriette, Ards
be spread over the surface. | Rover, Lamarque, and that always useful Noisette,
At all stages in the making cf bowling greens ' Mme Alfred Carri^re. Most of the dwarfer varieties
special and frequent attention must be paid to ; already named were planted at the foot and midway
the levels, testing the work as it proceeds with a 1 between the climbers. A few flowers were still
straight-edge and spirit-level. It is usual to have ' m evidence upon the latter, while the lower plants
a ditch a foot wide all round a bovvling green, J were simply a mass of bloom. There is yet another
with batten trellis-work in the bottom to catch 1 advantage in these last, for they will throw many
the bowls when they roll off the green. Another I very useful late flowers after those in the open
familiar object beyond this on many greens is a j are past, the protection of the wall being just what
raised bank i foot or 15 inches high sloping from j is needed to develop the latest buds. There is
the green. As an edging to the green, boards about ! little good in naming more varieties, but I would
an inch thick and 6 inches to 9 inches wide are | call attention to the need for more generous feeding
placed in the ditch, sufficiently
low for the thickness of the
turf to rest on the top edge
of the boards.
In a short article such as
this it is ordy possible to
touch on the main points in
the making of a bowling
green. Too much importance
can hardly be attached to the
use of the very best turf, and
where this is prohibitive in
price seed sowing must be
resorted to. Constructed in
such widely different
localities and vmder varying
conditions, these have much
to do with the exact
methods adopted by the green- LII-TING THE TURVES. THESE MUST ALL BE UNIFORM
makers. SIZE AND OF THE FINEST QUALITY,
February 21, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
93
THE TURVES ARE PLACED GRASS DOWNWARDS IN A MOULD
AND THE SOIL CLTT OFF WITH AN OLD SCYTHE BLADE.
than our well-established wall Roses often receive.
Because they have grown well, it does not mean they
are in no want of this attention ; rather the reverse.
Oftentimes they are in a very narrow border, with a
hard and uncultivated roadway or path at their
foot. It is realiy astonishing to see how well
many of our vigorous climbing subjects do in such
positions. Wistarias, Magnolias, &c., as well as
•our Roses, thrive as well as could be expected
if they have ample root-run and cultivation. We
can help them a great deal by the extra free use
of liquid manures, and should not be applied now,
but in the summer and autumn.
When contemplating the planting of such strong
growers, every advantage should be seized of making
the surrounding soil as congenial and rich as
possible ; for we can so seldom get the opportunity
again. The plants are generally put in as a
permanency, and the walls themselves draw much
moisture from the soil. A. P.
HARDY
CHINESE PRIMULAS.
THE Primulas from China are becoming
of great importance to horticulture,
and, numerous as they are already,
it is certain that their numbers will
be greatly increased, not only by
new finds, but also by the hybrids
which are being raised. It is indeed surprising
to realise how rapid has been the influx of these
Chinese Primulas.
Professor Bayley Balfour, in his paper at the
Primula Conference of the Royal Horticultural
Society in 1913, summarised the progress in a
lucid manner. From his notes we gather that
I-ehmann's monograph of the family, published
in 181 7, did not include a single Chinese species.
Twenty-seven years later, Duby, in De Candolle's
■" Prodromus," admitted only one Chinese species —
the well-known greenhouse plant P. sinensis.
Pax, forty-four years later, gave only thirty-
seven Chinese species out of a total number in
his monograph of the genus of upwards of 144.
In 1905 the same authority described eighty-eight
Chinese PrimuJas in Engler's " Pflanzenreich."
At the last Primula Conference upwards of 140 ' Forrest and the enterprise of
Chinese species were recognised. Professor Bayley Messrs. Bees, Limited, is P.
Balfour's classification is followed in these notes. 1 Bulleyana, which has come
A considerable proportion of these Chinese rapidly to the front as one of the
Primulas are tender, or only half-hardy, in culti- best of the newer hardy Chinese
vation in this country, and
I propose to deal at present
with those which have proved
fairly hardy. These alone
form a valuable and numerous
class, destined to occupy a
prominent place in the gardens
of the future. Taking them
in alphabetical order, we first
come to
P. angustidens (Franchet). —
This is synonymous with P.
Wilsonii (Dunn), and was intro-
duced by Messrs. James Veitch
and Sons of Chelsea under the
name of P. Wilsonii. It was
discovered by their collector,
Mr. Wilson, in the Tali district
of Yunnan, and has been in
cultivation since its introduction
in 1905. It has frequently been
sent out by nurserymen as P. vittata. It is closely
related to P. Poissonii, and, like that species,
belongs to the section Candelabra. P. angusti-
dens is, however, a much better plant than P..
Poissonii, as it is not only hardier, but is a better
bloomer, although the flowers are smaller. In
many places where P. Poissonii will not stand
the winter, P. angustidens has proved entirely
satisfactory. It is a strong grower, and under
favourable conditions will reach a height of fully
2 feet, and will bear a number of lilac-purple
flowers. The foliage is bright green and glossy.
It is naturally a lover of moisture, but is not
difficult to accommodate in a border or bog,
among the moist grass, or in the lower parts of
the rock garden. Its strong scent is a point
in its favour, while the fact that it seeds freely
will soon make it plentiful in cultivation. Culti-
vation : Good rich soil ; damp situation ; half
shade.
P. Beesiana (G. Forrest). — This species, raised
by Messrs. Bees from seeds sent by their collector,
Mr. George Forrest, in 1908, appears to have
been distributed about 191 1. It also belongs
to the Candelabra section, in which six purple-
flowered species were recognised by Professor
Bayley Balfour in his paper. It comes from the
Tali region of Yunnan, and is a native of the
moist meadows. It is a vigorous species, but is
not so reliable in cultivation as its ally P.
Bulleyana. It is said to reach as much as
3 feet in height when in congenial circum-
stances, but it is rarely seen
of this stature. It bears whorls
of velvety purple flowers,
brightened by a yellow eye,
which rise on a sturdy scape
from amid the Primrose-like
leaves. Some do not care for
its colour, but it is likely to
be of considerable value to
hybridisers. Cultivation : Pure
pulverised loam to which has
been added some leaf-soil ; half
shade is best, but it does well
also in full sim if soil is moist.
P. Bulleyana (G. Forrest).-
Another of the v a 1 u a b 1 1
Primulas we owe to Mr. George/
Primulas. It is now so well known that little
need be said regarding its appearance. It has
certainly come to stay, and whether as a distinct
species or as the parent of a series of hybrids
is bound to exercise an important influence upon
the gardens of the future. It has handsome
Primrose-like leaves, from among which spring
tall scapes of flowers in whorls, rising in graceful
tiers one above another. It lasts for a long time
in bloom, and the effect of the flowers is practi-
cally indescribable, as they pass through various
hues from their first showing colour till they fade
off. The colours shown may be said to embrace
scarlet, buff, orange and apricot, the final tint
being a good yellow. This is a very easy Primula
to grow, and may be suited either in any ordinary
moist soil or by the side of a stream or pond, or
in a moist meadow. It is vigorous and hardy,
and seeds freely in the garden. Cultivation :
Same as P. Beesiana.
Hybrids of P. Beesiana and P. Bulleyana.—
From seeds of P. Beesiana x P. Bulleyana a race
of pretty Primulas has been secured, these being
of a coppery red and of better growth than P.
Beesiana.
P. capitata (G. Forrest). — Authorities appear
to agree that the Himalayan P. capitata (Hook.)
is represented in China by several forms. Of
these, P. sphaerocephala, Balfour fil., and P. pseudo-
capitata have been introduced, but are as yet
little known. They bear a considerable resem-
blance to P. capitata (Hook.), and are characterised
by the possession of the same globular heads of
purple-blue flowers. From a garden point of
view these may be classed with P. capitata, which
is not generally a long-liver. They grow naturally
in gritty soils and on grassy hillsides. P. sphaero-
cephala comes from the Kari Pass in Yimnan,
and P. pseudo-capitata, which was collected by
Kingdon Ward for Messrs. Bees, Limited, and
introduced in rgrr, comes from Atuntsu in the
same province. Cultivation : Good loamy soil in
a shady position.
P. Clementinse (G. Forrest). — This is a small
plant which was introduced by Messrs. Bees,
Limited, in 1908. It is more or less covered
with farina, and the slender scape, considerably
longer than the leaves, carries several lilac
flowers at its summit. Cultivation : Loamy soil
with the addition of a little coarse sand ; half
shade.
Morelands, Duns. John Macwatt.
(To be continued.)
LAYING THE
TURVES WITH THE AID OF THE TURF
BEATER.
94
THE GARDEN.
[February 21. 1914.
truthfully be applied. It is one of the whites
of the future, or I am greatly mistaken.
In Silver Spur we have a fine large bicolor
trumpet. Considering its price {about 2S. 6d.
per dozen), I wonder it is not more known, for it
supplies a want, inasmuch as it provides a contrast
in form to the stiff and well-known Victoria.
It has a large flower, quite as big as a Duke of
Bedford, with a ver>' refined-looking deep yellow
trumpet and not at all a bad perianth. Only
it is so very inapplicable to readers of The
G.\RDEN. I would have said it must have
heard the old proverb about casting pearls
before swine ; it is so sparing with its blooms.
It is not stingy like some, nor prodigal like
others. One big bulb, one good flower, is
its rule, and one which is seldom broken.
DAFFODIL NOTES.
Irregularity of Pot-grown Bulbs. — There is
general chorus of complaint about the irregularity
with which pot-grown stuff is flowering. In some
way or another the season of 1913 affected the
ripening of the bulbs. When I was in Holland
in the early days of this month I saw an example
of it at a small market-grower's at Beverwijk,
where a fine healthy batch of Emperors were
displaying this undesirable behaviour, some of
[he plants being almost in flower, while others
were but half grown. Irregularity is a serious
thin^ for those who cater for the cut-flower trade,
as it means a much less number of boxes can be
passed through the houses in the course of a season.
The amateur who grows Daffodils in pots is not
concerned with the question of
profit, but he is, naturally, not
over-pleased when he finds that
in a potful of five or six, two or
three bulbs have almost done
flowering when the others arc
only just commencing. This year,
at any rate, it is not the dealer
or grower who is in fault, but
our old friend the Clerk of the
Weather, who evidently was not
thinking of the forcing season
when he was regulating affairs
in the spring and summer of
1913. Coming from the general
to the particular, I am wondering
how far this abnormal year has
upset my theorj' of how to
produce good blooms early in the
year. By this I mean blooms
fairly in " character." Twelve
mouths ago my dodge " worked,"
but is only " so-so " in its
results this present season. I
am not the only one who is
experimenting in this direction,
for at Hillegom I saw the prac-
tical outcome of another " dodge "
to promote good early growth.
Here the difference between the
ordinary and the other was most
marked. Of these more anon.
Some Good Varieties for Early
February. — With accumulated
experience, certain varieties are
beginning to stand out as good
for early work in pots. Foremost
among these' I must place Fairy,
a very free-flowering yellow
belonging to Division I. Its
prominent and distinguishing
characteristic is the fine bold
roll - back of its widely ex-
panded trumpet. It is naturally a dwai-f Under bicolors I must just mention the cheap
g'ower, but this is no detriment to its value and pretty Queen Bess as an excellent incom-
as a garden plant — rather the reverse, as it affords 1 parabilis (Division 2B) for pots or for growing
Forced Bulb Show in March seems to have
reminded people of the potentialities of ' the
Narcissus family as pot plants. Gradually the
best are crystallising out, and doubtless more
than two or three are experimenting as to
the best means of producing good early flowers.
The collection that I have already referred to
at Hillegom belonged to the celebrated firm of
Messrs. R. van der Schoot and Sons. In alJ
there were forty-five varieties, most of themi
represented by two or three panfuls. The
majority were their own Poetaz and trumpet
varieties. Among the former. Sunset and Triumph
were particularly good. As I saw Sunset it was
a more effective flower than Jaune k Merveille,
inasmuch as its cup is a deep orange, which is-
well set off by the pale yellow perianth. Fairj-
was splendid. Hoboken, which
is a sort of small, rather deeper-
coloured Golden Spur, very early-
and very free ; and the sweet-
scented Vanilla, with its wide-
mouthed trumpet and somewhat
spidery perianth, were both good^
and are well worth growing:
under glass. Does not all this-
suggest a Daffodil house ? What
pleasure such a structure might
afford us all through Februarj-
and March ! Then, when the
Daffodils are over, it would just
do for a collection of Darwla
Tulips. Joseph Jacob.
THE STATELY GALTONIA CANDICANS GROUPED IN THE BORDER
FOR EFFECT IN LATE SUMMER.
variety in height in the bed and border, while
under glass it is always sufficiently long for any
practical purpose. A desideratum in these early
days among Daffodils is variety. We have a good
many yellows, but not many bicolors and very few
red cups. Whites, if we may so describe Mrs.
Langtry and Minnie Hume, are equally scarce.
Fairy Queen, which one might call a clean-cut-out
Mrs. Langtry, is altogether a most delightful
and satisfactory flower ; it " comes " easUy and
freely, and when fully developed is one of the
Leedsiis to which the adjective " petite " might
in extenso for cutting. When we come to red
cups, I am year by year getting more confirmed
in the very high opinion I have formed with
respect to the good qualities of Blackwell. My
own two pots this year " were a treat," and would
have done me credit at Birmingham. Alas !
alas ! the same money that can buy twelve fine
bulbs of Golden Spur will only purchase one of
Blackwell.
I am glad to find that early culture under
glass is more and more occupying the attention
of traders. The Royal Horticultural Society's
THE CAPE HYACINTH,
(GaLTONIA CANDICANS.)
This noble border plant is now so'
often seen that it is cherished with
the same feelings of respect ex-
tended to those flowers that have
been groAvn for centuries in our
gardens. To those who are not
acquainted with the introduction
■ if Galtonia candicans, it maj"-
I ome rather as a surprise to learn
that it was introduced by one
who died in the spring of last
\-ear. The introducer was Mr.
Thomas Cooper, who spent much
time collecting plants in South
-\frica. Another well-known plant
lor which we are indebted to hiim
IS Asparagus plumosus.
G. candicans is sometimes,
known under the generic name
Hyacinthus, or by the popular
name Cape Hyacinth. It is a
bulbous plant belonging to the Lily
Order, with fragrant, white flowers
from July till late September. The drooping
flowers are borne on tall spikes 4 feet to 6 feet in
height. It is well suited for planting in masses,
in the flower border, or for mixing with peat-
loving shrubs which are not tall enough to hide
the handsome spikes of bloom. .Although it is
a hardy subject, it is occasionally grown for the
conser\'atory, where it is appreciated, as it makes-
an admirable pot plant. It is of easy culture.,
showing preference for a rich, leafy soil to which
a fair amount of peat has been added. It may
be grown from seeds, but this is tedious, as the
seedlings take four or five years to flower. The
more satisfactory way is to increase it by offsets,
from the bulbs.
February 21, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
95
THE LENTEN ROSES.
To those seeking to increase them by division —
an operation that may be performed in autumn or
spring — I would suggest the former as the best
season, to save conflict with the flowering period and
to enable the plants to become partially established
before the coming of the new leaves. Lenten
Roses are among those herbaceous perennials
which I refer to as " perpetual rooting " ; hence
they may be planted or transplanted over a some-
what extended period of time. The Christmas
It so happens, however, despite their many graces, Roses, on the other hand, are distinctly periodical
their abundant flowering and simple cultural I in root production ; hence, for these, if we would
requirements, that these Lenten flowers, while have of their best, I have unhesitatingly set apart
prized by some, have never been greatly popular. August and September as the only rational planting
IF by reason of their purity of blossom and
winter flowering the Christmas Roses
stand alone in their season, those of the
Lenten section are equally without a rival
for quaint beauty and distinctive colouring
at any time, and as such merit the atten-
tion of those who garden chiefly in the open air.
Rather has it been left to the few who specialise
in good things to take them upon their merits
and make of them the success they deserve to be.
Were the tenn " retiring " or " reserved " possible
oi application to a flower, then I would cer- food for much thought
tainly say that these Lenten Roses
merited some such a phrase, see-
ing that theirs is a beauty apart
— something to be looked for —
and not making for ostentatious
display. Hence for those who see
beauty only in gaudy flowers,
these are not well suited. All the
same, it is not too much to urge
that, even without flowers, in cer-
tain localities and soils they would
merit cultivation for their leafage
alone. Lovers of shelter and appre-
ciating the proximity of evergreens
or shrubs to protect them from
the biting winds of spring, this
and a great depth of cool and,
if possible, moist loam would
appear to be among their chief
needs. Shelter, indeed, if we would
retain the winter beauty of their
leafage till the arrival of the new,
would appear more or less a
necessity, though even this is
modified by circumstances, parti-
cularly those of soil and soil
moisture. Given the shelter of
Hazel bushes, these plants, too,
are very charming in the wood-
land, the same kind of shelter
standing them in good stead when
growing in lighter loams over
chalk. Indeed, there would appear
to be much in chalky loams to
satisfy their needs, the cooling
influences of stone and soil depth
apparently suiting them as much
as the lime, which they seemingly
assimilate to their advantage. But they are
not fastidious, and one may see them occa-
sionally in perfection in the strongest of loamy
soils. One item, however, is important, viz.,
that a considerable soil depth be assured, and
certainly not less than 2 feet. In this connection
mention should be made of their remarkable root
activity, which, with its abundance, quite accounts
for their somewhat voracious appetite. To some
extent the great root system of these Lenten
Roses finds its parallel in the fiue leafy bushes
above the ground, which could not receive
adequate support otherwise. Hence it should be
clear that soil of a generous character and depth
would be much to their liking, and if to this be
added light shelter, then, I think, we have pre-
sented in nutshell form their chief cultural
requirements.
season of the year. The genus Helleborus is the
only one I recall at the moment where these
differences of root production are so obvious,
which to the observant gardener should give
THE RED-FLOWERED PLUMBAGO.
In most private gardens this beautiful plant. Plum-
bago rosea, is usually grown in pots, and certainly
it is a most useful subject for dotting about among
Palms and Ferns in a large stove ; but, I think,
to get the best results it should be planted in a
bed or border. Evidently this plant enjoys a
fairly free root-run, for it produces much stronger
foliage and flower-spikes when planted in a narrow
border and trained up the back wall of a warm
house.
Here the wall of the stove is completely covered
with it, and such has been the quantity of flower-
spikes produced that we have been able to decorate
several large dinner-tables with it this winter,
and there are still a large number of spikes just
opening their flowers. The plants are growing
I in a narrow border about fifteen inches wide
FLOWERS OF THE LENTEN ROSE, HELLEBORUS ORIENTALIS, A PLANT FOR THE SHADY BORDER.
A primary attribute of not a few Lenten Roses
is the profuse spotted character of the flowers,
some of which are very beautiful, while others,
of rich or deep plum or purple colouring, appeal
to a large number. Unfortunately — or other-
wise— the flowers are not of great service in the
cut state unless the stems are split longitudinally,
and, even 'so, they never appear quite happy ;
hence their best place is the garden where they
associate well with plant and shrub in woodland and
other places. Some good varieties are antiquorum
James .\tkins, rose pink ; a. Willie Barr, also rose
coloured; orient alls (see illustration) ; colchicus and
c. magnificus, plum and crimson coloured respec-
tively ; Apotheker Bogren, crimson-purple ; gutta-
tus, white, spotted crimson ; and g. sub-punctatus.
These Lenten Roses are free seeders, and readily
submit to cross-breeding. E. H. Jenkins.
and the same in depth, in fibrous loam, with
the addition of a 6-inch potful of bone-meal to.
each barrow-load of loam. Beyond heavy syring-
ing during the summer months and an occasional
pinching of the growths to ensure an even distri-
bution of the flowers, the plants have received
no special attention. It is necessary to pinch
the growths at least three times, for, if left to grow
as they like, aU the flowers will be at the top,
which detracts from the appearance of the plant
when grown on a wall. A sharp look-out must
be kept for thrips, which play havoc with the
foliage if allowed to get a hold. An occasional
syringing with Niquas is a good preventive
of this pest. After the plants have finished
flowering they are cut down to within a foot of
the ground, the border top-dressed and kept
slightly drier till growth commences in the spring.
96
THE GARDEN.
[February 21, I9i4-
Perhaps it will interest some of your readers
who have dinner-tables to decorate to know that
a table much admired here was done with Plumbago
rosea mixed with sprays of Deutzia gracilis. This
makes a very graceful combination, and it lights
up well. James G. Bes.\nt.
Oak Park Gardens, Carlow, Ireland.
VIOLETS IN THE OPEN GARDEN.
One of the prominent flowers of the season is the
popular Violet, and many gardeners go in for
its culture somewhat extensively. Encouraged
and protected by glass, in one form or another,
Violets can be coaxed to do marvellously. They
are, however, eager enough to flower in the open,
and will do so under almost any conditions so
long as the weather remains mild. Should hard
weather be encountered, however, many growers
NEW AND RARE PLANTS.
Iris Cantab. — We believe this beautiful early
bulbous variety, which, presumably, is of the
reticulata set, was raised by Mr. A. E. Bowles,
and it is certainly one of the most charming of
its class. The fragrant flowers are singularly
compact, and nearly six inches high as sho%vn.
The standards are pale blue, falls pale violet,
with narrow golden crest. From Messrs. H.
Chapman, Limited, Rye. Award of merit.
Rhododendron moupinense. — This new Chinese
species was exhibited under the provisional name
of warleyense, a little 6-inch-high bush, having
three large white flowers of about two and a-half
inches across, in which were seen deep chocolate-
coloured anthers. The blossoms have a horizontal
inclination. The Box-like leaves are obovate,
entire, about one and a-half inches long, and nearly
C. J. Phillips ; Odontioda Diana variety Gladys,
from Messrs. J. and A. McBean ; C\nnbidium
Schlegelii Southfield Variety, from Mr. VV. Butler ;
and Odontioda Lucilia, a mauve and purple variety
with dark blotches, from .Messrs. Charlesworth
and Co.
The foregoing plant novelties were shown before
the Royal Horticultural Society on the loth- inst.
SEASONABLE NOTES
CARNATIONS.
ON
B
RHODODENDRON MOUPINENSE, A NEW DWARF HARDY CHINESE SPECIES WITH WHITE FLOWERS
leave the beds to look after themselves ; whereas,
if given a little care while such weather lasts,
which is generally only for a few days, the roots
would more than repay for the trouble in the extra
flowers they would then produce. Violet-beds
should always be so situated as to be somewhat
protected from the keen winds, and, of course,
replanting should be done frequently enough to
ensure the crowns being always full of vigour. From
the start of blooming to the finish in the early spring
it pays to give outdoor Violets a light dressing of
Peruvian Guano from time to time. If the weather
is mild, the guano may be applied once a month ;
but if there is much hard weather, once in six weeks
will be sufficient. During hard frost give the plants
protection, by night at any rate, placing a light
frame of lath over them — to prevent crushing —
and covering with mats or anything else that
comes handy. By following these hints open-air
Violets will give satisfaction. J. T. B.
an inch broad. The exhibited example was said
to be about five years old ; hence might be of the
greatest value in the rock garden. The species
is said to be quite hardy. From Miss Willmott,
Warlev Place, Essex. Award of merit.
NEW ORCHIDS.
The number of Orchids to gain distinction was
even greater than usual. Sir Jeremiah Colman,
Bart., gained a first-class certificate with Dendro-
bium Lady Colraan, a magnificent hybrid of purple
and velvety maroon colour. Baron Schroder
gained a first-class certificate for Cypripedium
Pyramus and an award of merit for Cattleya
Trianffi Mr. de B. Crawshay. Awards of merit
were granted to the following : Cymbidium
gottianum Westonbirt Variety and Odontioda
Margaret Westonbirt Variety, both from
Lieutenant-Colonel Sir George Holford, K.C.V.O. ;
Cattleya Triaiue Mrs. Phillips, shown by Mr.
ORDER Carnations are not yet quite
extinguished by the immensely popular
Perpetuals, and a very nice way of
growing a selection is to place them
in pots — 7 inch for preference — in the South,
standing them in the open till the flowering stage
ard housing them during that period.
In the North it is better to grow
them the whole time under glass.
The plants do better and flower a few
weeks earlier than those growing in
the open. Lady Hermione, can be
kept in health only by pot culture,
and, as a rule, the lovely flakes,
bizarres and white and yellow
ground Picotees are easiest to pre-
serve in robust health when grown
in pots, but, of course, without
being coddled. A compost suited
to soft-wooded plants generally suits
border Carnations equally well,
the one thing they and all sec-
tions of Carnation abhor being deep
potting.
For Outdoor Cultivation. — I need
not labour to prove the extreme
hardiness of the Carnation, and only
remark that this physical quality
permits of those which have been
wuitered in pots to be planted ui
beds and borders in early spring as
soon as the soil is in a fit condition
to work. Those planted early in the
year are invariably superior when
in flower to those kept on till March
or April. If it is not possible or
convenient to plant now, the plants
should have manure to keep them
from becoming more or less starved.
Plants rooted from cuttings late in
autumn are not to be despised, such
a free-flowering variety as Raby
Castle, propagated in that way, giving abundance
of bloom till quite late in the year, and for that
reason stock from cuttings is more desirable for
use in mixed flower borders than that from layers.
.Autumn-planted layers will now appreciate a
dressing of soot, which, besides acting as a slow
stimulant, keeps birds from pecking the leaves.
Malmaisons. — Plants which have been wmtered
in 3-inch or 4-inch pots are ready to transfer into
others 6 inches or 7 inches in diameter. I now grow
very few plants, but at one time I preferred to
pot them on in autumn into 6-inch pots, and the
strongest of these, being shifted at this season
into 8-inch and 9-inch pots, were induced to grow
on continuously till the ne.xt autumn, when a
crop of bloom was secured ofi the side shoots.
Old plants not to be given a shift must have
manurial aid and, as occasion permits, be rcstaked,
weakly shoots cut away, and leaves that have
recently perished removed.
February 21, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
97
DESIGN FOR A SMALL
FRONT GARDEN.
I
I
REPOTTING A YOUNG PERPETUAL- FLOWERING
CARNATION : A, DEPTH TO REPOT ; B, WHERE
TO PINCH OUT THE YOUNG GROWTH.
Perpetuals. — Young plants recently placed in
a^inch pots fill the latter with roots in the space
of a few days, and must then be transferred to
larger ones — ^ther 3-inch or 4-inch — a check
from underpotting at this stage being inimical
to the whole future of the plants. The Perpetuals
succeed in such a variety of soils that no one need
hesitate to attempt their cultivation on account
of soil, the chief point being to make it open
enough by means of lime rubble and sand, if too
close, to preserve it in a porous condition. Animal
manures should be employed with the utmost
caution, but a little artificial manure is of benefit
in strengthening the plants. There is some
diversity of opinion regarding the temperature
which the young plants should have, some growing
them warmly with slight ventilation. I rather
prefer to grow them right on with free ventilation,
.and not much heat other than that derived from
the stm. Growth is slower at first, but in the
long run the cooler treatment is the more successful.
I must not forget to note the serious effects that
follow deep potting, and to this may be traced the
■deaths that occur in some collections.
Flowering stock is now awakening to fresh vigour
.after the weary \vinter, and will now respond
to Nature's advances if frequent applications
■of manure are given. Plants in s-inch ar.d 6-inch
Tpots may be repotted into those two sizes larger,
.and the whole examined for withered foliage.
Stems from which the flowers have been cut
■still further shorten to well-placed young shoots,
■and tie all young shoots loosely but securely in
ibefore they lean over laterally. Seeds of Perpetuals
should be sown at once, using very friable soil
and germinating them in a temperature of 60°
to 65°, in which the seedlings will very soon
appear, after which transfer them to a lower
temperature. Nothing is gained by sowing border
Carnations so early. R. P. Brotherston.
1AM building a small villa for myself, and
should feel favoured if you would kindly
give me your views of the best way to set
out my front garden. There is about
twelve inches of good top soil ; after that
clay. Roses do very well. Would a sort
of Dutch garden do, with Roses and old York
paving ? T. B.
[It is assumed that the owner of this villa
does not wish to approach the front door by
a road wide enough for vehicular traffic, and
therefore has a considerable space to devote
to gardening on this side of the house. To
use his own words : " There is about twelve
inches of good top soil ; after that clay. Roses
do well." Certaitdy, then, he should use RoSes
largely in the planting, and the design given
in the accompanying illustration has been prepared
specially with this in view. If the beds seen in the
plan are too simple in outline, remember that Roses
cannot be used successfully in beds of fancy shapes,
because they will not fit to the beds when they grow.
Such Roses as are included in the planting scheme
should have the longest possible period of flowering.
Dwarf Roses only should be used in these beds,
as the area is not large enough to overcome the
aggressive appearance of standards. The design
for a garden such as this cannot be too simple,
and the only hard paths introduced should be
between those points that must be approached.
Roses, principally Hybrid Teas, that give the
longest possible period of flowering are eminently
suitable. It is better, however, to make provision
for the introduction of a few other plants, as Roses
by themselves are not attractive at certain seasons
of the year.
I. Could be either trellis covered with pink
Roses and pale blue Clematis, or an evergreen hedge
to screen off the approach to garage.
2. This border could be filled with pink China
Rose Hermosa and clumps of Lavender, with white
Madonna Lilies in the corners.
3. Trellis arch to screen off tradesmen's door.
4. Lead figure or vase.
5. Rose Caroline Testout, carpeted with Viol.i
Maggie Mott.
6. Rose Richmond and dark purple Viola.
7 and 8. Various good Roses of similar habit
of growth as desired, principally cream and pink
shades, and cream Viola as edging or carpet.
9. Rose Mme. Abel Chatenay and Viola Maggie
Mott.
10. Rose General Macarthur and dark purp'e
Viola.
11. Rose Hugh Dickson and purple Viola.
12. Rose Warrior and purple Viola.
13. This could either be Rose Fellenberg, allowe d
to grow into a hedge, or, if a solid fence is used
on which climbers could be trained, it could be
filled with the choicest and best Roses that do not
make rampant growth ; just a collection of " gems."
the aspect being south-west.
14. Repeat No. 2, training the longer growths
of the China Rose against the fence.
15. Wistaria sinensis or W. multijuga, and
Jasminum officinalis major to train over porch.
16. Border for bulbs. Wallflowers and a few
summer-flowering plants ; this border to be
changed with the seasons and always kept bright.
Also plant the following creepers to train on
house ;
17. Clematis Nellie Moser.
18. Jasminum nudicaule.
ig and 20. Climbers to taste, remembering
the aspect is north-east.
21. Flower border, say, Nepeta Mussinii and
pink Antirrhinums.
22. Magnolia grandiflora trained on house.
The grass area should not be an inch less than
sho-wn on plan. The paved walk from the front
gate should lead to some definite feature in the
gardens beyond. — Ed.]
r T-r T 1 r i f
||l)/Ul,l|Ull,|.^|||,l■U,ll,l.^ll.l.lliUI|l■^l■M.l.l.l■ll■^l■lllllll.lll.llll■llllllMllllllllll(lllll(llllllllWllllil^
— mm —
PLAN OF A VILLA GARDEN.
Irlii.Mil
98
THE GARDEN.
[February 21, 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
Late Vineries. — All late vineries sliould be sliut
up and started gently by March i, as late varieties
of Grapes require a long season to bring them to
perfect maturity, and unless they are thoroughly
finished by the end of September, the prospect of
keeping them in plump condition through the winter
will be much reduced. Very little fire-heat will
be necessary for some time, as the temperature
should not exceed 50° by night and 65° by day.
Early Peach-House. — The growth on early
trees will be sufficiently advanced to require
frequent syringing with clear soft water, to keep
aphis and red spider in check. The final dis-
budding may now be accomplished, leaving a well-
placed shoot as near the base of last year's growth as
possible ; another may be left between the base and
the terminal bud if space will permit, but nothing
should be left beyond what can be conveniently
tied in without overcrowding the tree. Very
little thinning of the fruits should take place before
the stoning period is over, and then select the fruits
on the upper side of the branches, so that they
may be fully exposed to the sun. Attend to the
disbudding of successional trees, removing a few
buds from each shoot at a time, so that no check
in the growth may take place.
The Orchard-House. — Give plenty of air to
Apple and Pear trees which are in bloom, examine
the pots twice daily, and give a good soaking of
clear water when necessary. As soon as the crop
is set, weak liquid manure may be given once or
twice a week. Syringe the trees early in the day
and avoid fire-heat as much as possible.
Plants Under Glass.
Chrysanthemums. — The earliest batch of plants
will now be well rooted in small pots, and ready
for potting into 6-inch pots. The soil may consist
of two-thirds turfy loam and one-third leaf-soil,
with sufficient old lime rubble to keep the soil
porous. The pots must be clean and the soil made
firm about the roots ; replace the plants in a cold
pit on a bed of ashes. No fire-heat should be
applied if sufficient covering can be found to exclude
frost. The pit should be kept closed for a week or
more until the plants are established, after which
air should be admitted in increasing quantities
until the lights are removed on fine sunny days,
the aim being to produce sturdy, short-jointed
plants, and consequently crowding must be avoided.
Seed-Sowing. — Chinese Primulas for November
flowering should be sown now. The soil may con-
sist of fine sifted loam and leaf-soil in equal parts,
with sufficient rough sand to keep the soil from
becoming sour. Cover the seeds very lightly with
fine sandy soil and place them in a temperature
of 60°. if not already done, a sowing of Balsams,
Celosia and Cockscombs should be made, also of
Streptocarpus.
The Flower Garden.
Pentstemon Plants which were struck in cold
pits during September should now be carefully
potted into 3-inch pots and placed in a similar
pit quite near the roof glass. Let the pit be
kept closed until the roots are well established,
after which air should be freely admitted until
the plants are ready to put out about the first
week in April.
Antirrhinums. — If these were raised from
seeds in the autumn, they should now be ready
for planting where they are to remain, and if
lifted with a good quantity of soil about the roots,
they will commence to flower early in the season
and continue for a considerable time. It is not
too late to raise Antirrhinums from seed for
flowering in .-Vugust and September.
The Pleasure Grounds.
Pruning Shrubs. — If not already done, this
work should be finished with as little delay as
possible, and the requirements of each individual
plant must be considered as the work proceeds.
.\ strong pruning-knife is the best implement for
the purpose. Specimen Hollies should be care-
fully pruned, and, where the branches have become
too thick and crowded, a few may be carefully
cut and drawn out so that the plant may present
a more natural appearance, .^void pruning
Laur.'ls and other large-leaved shrubs with shears,
as by this means many of the leaves are cut and
the plant made to present a most unnatural
appearance.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Protecting Early Flowers. — In some districts
Apricot flowers will soon require protection from
frost, and this is best accomplished by thin canvas
blinds, which should be drawn up every morning
and run down again in the evening. Old fish-
nets may also be used for the purpose, but care
must be taken that neither covering comes in
contact with the flowers.
Strawberry Plants for autumn fruiting which
have been wintered in small pots may now be
planted on a well-prepared border with an eastern
aspect. These plants do not grow so large as
summer-fruiting varieties, therefore it is not
necessary to plant them so far apart. St. Antoine
de Padoue is one of the best for this purpose,
and continues to produce a supply of nice fruit
until quite the end of October. Seeds of alpine
Strawberries may be sown now for autumn fruiting.
The Kitchen Garden.
Parsley. — The main crop of Parsley may now
be sown as soon as possible. An open position
should be chosen for the purpose, allowing 18 inches
between the rows. Cover the seeds lightly with
fine soil. Young seedlings raised under glass
should be planted in a warm position as soon
as large enough. This may prove a valuable
crop in the early summer.
Cauliflower Plants which have been grown in
cold pits during the winter should have the lights
removed every morning and replaced again at night,
in order to produce good stocky plants for
planting early in April. Further small sowings
of Cauliflower should be made from now till tlie
middle of May. Magnum Bonum and Dickson's
Great Dane are splendid varieties for sowing now.
Leeks. — The principal sowing of Leek seed
should be made without delay. A good rich
border should be chosen for this purpose, and the
seeds sown in shallow drills a foot apart.
Chervil. — Where this is in demand, a small
sowing should be made every ten days, and during
the summer the sowings should be more frequent.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Celery. — Those who are expected to have
Celery towards the end of August will require
to make a small sowing now. Sow the seeds
thinly and place them in a temperature of about 60°.
Whenthey have germinated, see that the seedlings do
not suffer for the want of wafer at the roots, as this
would assuredly cause them to bolt later. Perhaps
there is no crop that will resent neglect in this
way more than Celery. The plants will require
careful attention right on till planting-time.
Asparagus. — Should the weather be favourable.
Asparagus-beds ought now to receive attention.
Have all weeds cleared off and give a good dressing
of rich manure. On established beds especially
this will be all that is necessary. Where it is
intended to make a new plantation, the ground
should be trenched to a depth of 3 feet, adding
some well-rotted manure and burnt refuse as
the work proceeds. Leave the whole in a rough
state till the end of March, or in cold districts till
the second week in April, which will be quite
soon enough to plant.
Potatoes. — Early Potatoes may now be planted
out of doors, say, on a narrow border at the foot
of a south wall. Any of the early varieties now
on the market may be planted, as, being against
a wall, I find they are easily protected on the
approach of frost or very cold weather.
Turnips. — Seeds of Early Milan Turnips may be
sown in rows on a warm border. The Turnips, of
course, must be used when quite small, otherwise
they would assuredly run to seed.
The Flower Garden.
Sweet Peas. — Where Sweet Peas are intended
to be grown in a row, it will be well to throw out
the trench now, say, to the depth of 2 feet or so.
Leave this trench open until planting-time, when
the soil mil be pulverised and mellowed by the
weather. Previous to planting, this should be
filled in, with the addition of manure and fresh soil.
Anemones. — These beautiful perennials are
becoming more popular than ever, and will well
repay any little extra trouble one may take in their
cultivation. To grow them well I find they require
to be liberally treated. The present is a good
time to plant. The ground, of course, should
have been previously dug and well manured. Seeds
may also be sown now of the beautiful St. Brigid
variety. These will bloom towards the end of
September. Being very slow in germinating,
I find it best to sow in boxes and place them in a
cold frame. They require careful handling until
planted out.
Polyanthuses. — Now will be a good time to
make a sowing of Polyanthuses; at least, we seem
to get better results from this sowing than from
one made out of doors in May or June. Sow
in pans and prick out the seedlings when ready ;
these should make fine plants for putting out in
the autumn.
Lobelia cardinalis. — It is very doubtful if
this attractive plant receives the attention it
deserves. Last season I saw a charming bed
of East Lothian Stocks, with Lobelia cardinalis
used as dot plants. As seen from a distance
the effect was very striking. To produce such
an effect the Lobelia should be divided now,
potted, and brought on very steadily. If placed
into a larger size pot before planting, so much the
better. FrcHU seed sown now very good plants
may be had by September.
Cannas. — The old stools should now be brought
from their winter quarters, placed either in pots
or boxes, and brought on gently in a moderate
heat. Where it is intended to increase the stock,
the old stools can be divided and potted up singly.
Harden them off gradually, and see that they
are not put out of doors tmtil all traces of frost have
disappeared.
Plants Under Glass.
Achimenes. — ^These beautiful stove plants,
which seem almost indispensable for adding a
little colour during the summer, should now
receive attention. Shake them out and place
them in shallow pans or boxes filled with sandy
soil, say, about an inch apart. When they have
made about two inches of growth, they may be
potted or placed in hanging baskets. In the
latter I find they are most effective. During the
growing season they should be constantly syringed
to ward off red spider, to which they are very subject.
Chrysanthemums. — From now till the begin-
ning of March will be a good time to put in the
main batch of bush Chrysanthemums. As the
cuttings on the old stools are growing freely,
care must be taken to select only sturdy shoots,
and do not root in overmuch heat.
Begonia Gloire de Lorraine. — Plants that
were cut back early -will now be pushing up young
shoots. They may be taken off and rooted where
they can have a little bottom-heat. Plants that
bloomed later should be cut back and syringed
frequently ; these will supply cuttings later.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Spraying with Winter Wash. — Should this
most necessary work not have been done earlier,
no time should be lost in going over the trees.
To destroy insect-life there is perhaps nothing
better than caustic alkali, and, like all other
operations of this kind, it must be done thoroughly,
so that every part of the tree is treated. Great
care must be exercised to protect the hands
and clothes, as this solution is extremely injurious
to both.
Arsenate of Lead Wash. — It is a good plan to
spray trees and bushes with this solution just
as the flowers are opening, and again when the
fruit has set. Arsenate of lead can now be had
in paste form, and if used according to the
directions, there need be no fear of doing damage.
Brambles and Loganberries. — These may now
be planted and treated in the same way as Rasp-
berries. Fruiting canes may now be tied up,
and remember that there is nothing gained by
crowding them together ; in fact, when trained
too close, it is almost impossible to get among them
to pick the fruit. John Highcate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopcloun Gardens, South Qucensjcrry, N.B.
February 21, 1914-^
THE GARDEN.
99
HARDY CHRYSANTHEMUMS
FOR FLOWERING IN
NOVEMBER.
JekyU under the
The Garden of
THE note by Miss G
above heading in
January lo is most opport\me. There
are now a great number of beautiful
Chrysanthemums that flower very
satisfactorily outdoors during Sep-
tember and October, and the development of this
section has been quite remarkable in recent years.
1 am quite in agreement with IVIiss Jekyll as to
the value of those that come into flower in
November, when outdoor flowers are so scarce ;
and the getting together of other varieties than
those named in the note in question should not
be a very difficult matter, The three varieties
mentioned by Miss Jekyll are among the oldest
now catalogued by the Chrysanthemum specialist,
I cannot trace the date of the introduction of
Emperor of China (syn. Cottage Pink), which I have
seen luxuriating in cottage gardens in my autumn
rambles through the country ; but the variety
Julie Lagravere, a dark crimson-red sort, was
introduced by the late J. Salter so long ago as the
year 1859. It is quite remarkable how well these
old sorts retain their vigour. The foregoing are
not large Pompons, but reflexed kinds. Soeur
Melanie, raised by Lebois in r869, is generally
recognised as a hybrid Pompon, and is classified
as a Pompon by the National Chrysanthemum
Society. It is indeed a beautiful plant, and is
more appreciated because it comes into bloom just
as the plethora of the early flowering kinds is
coming to a close.
In reply to the question raised, " Are there any
more of this large Pompon class ? " I am pleased
to name a few varieties that are but very slightly
liuown by the present race of growers. The
Christine family is excellent for this purpose, and
is represented by Golden Christine (golden bronze),
Peach Christine (peach colour). Pink Christine
- imagine. So far as I am aware
there is no published record of what are the proper
ties of a show Viola. I ha\'e looked into old publica-
tions dealing with th ■ show and fancy Pansies, and
I find that to mai^e the show Viola conform to
rules laid down for blooms of the show and fancy
Pansies, as regards their properties, would lie to
lessen the beauty and charm of the Viola. The
show Pansies are so distinct from the Violas
as we Ivnow tiiem to-day ; the latter are so free
and graceful in tlieir character, and they possess
a beauty peciliarly their own. No hard-and-fast
rule can be laid down as to what a good Viola
should be, and this remark applies to the question
of size, form, co'our or marking.
Beauty in respect to form, whatever the type
may be, colour and marking, each has to be
considered by those appointed to judge exhibition
blooms, and the better these points are exemplified
in the flowers set up for adjudication, the more
will they commend themselves to judges who
are true florists. Points worthy of consideration
are the following : Size. — There is a tendency-
to give too much attention to size, to the exclusion
of many flowers of smaller varieties that possess
points of quality far in excess of those seen in the
unduly large flowers that are often very coarse.
It is not difficult to deternrine what are well-grown
flowers, and if these are a little above the average
size, they always look well. In whatever way
the flowers may t)e set up, whether it be in sprays,
as was the rule years ago, or in bowls filled with
sand, the blooms should be of consistent size and
form. Prizes ha\'e often been lost because an
exhibitor has arranged in a spray, &c., one or
two undersized blooms. In such cases the better
blooms have set the standard of quality, and the
smaller ones ha\'e exhibited how far they have
fallen short of the standard.
Tlieu as regards colour, this, too, should be
consistently good. Care is very necessary when
gathering the blooms that the self-coloured sorts
should be as nearly alike in colour as possible,
and that fancy and edged flowers should be even
in their markings and margins. In the nineties,
when twelve sprays of Violas were set up, it was
customary, in the classes for six blooms in each
spray, to give one point as a maximum for each
bloom, so that it was possible to obtain seventy-
two points for a series of perfect sprays. In very
close competition additional points were awarded
for variety, arrangement and general effect.
This system of awarding points works out very
well, for in ordinary competitions, by allowing
one point to each perfect bloom as a maximum,
this may be reduced by fractions or otherwise
in proper ratio for blooms less perfect. The
total number of points gained by each competitor
can then be very^ easily determined.
Other considerations that are important in
exhibition Violas are the following : Small, neat,
bright eye ; flowers that are well balanced, absence
of ragged or notched edges, freedom from waviness
and blemishes, such as punctures by insects
and dirt splashes. Most important of all, the
flowers should be absolutely fresh. Stale flowers
and any that may be in the least disposed to curl
at the edges, should be discarded in favour of
fresh blooms, even though they may be smaller.
Preference should be given to blooms of stout,
velvety substance, with the petals lying evenly
and closely upon each other. Such blooms
invariablv last longer and maintain their fresh-
ness throughout the day of the show. The " Rules
for Judging " issued by the Royal Horticultural
Society defines the points in judging Violas
as follows : (a) Good outline and stoutness of
petal, one point ; (6) smoothness of petal and
edge, one point ; (c) in selfs, well-defined colours,
one point ; (d) in belted and blotched flowers,
harmony without confusion, two points ; (e)
erect, stoijt stems, blooms facing well to the
front, one point. Each of these points has
practically been dealt with in these notes, so the
matter should now be perfectly clear. One judge
who knows his business could judge the flowers
quite satisfactorily ; but, so that suggestions of
incompetence or uncertainty shah not be made, it is
much better to obtain the services of two men who
Icnow tlie Viola and its varieties, and in case of a dis-
agreement it should be possible to call in an umpire.
Highgale, N. D. B. Crane.
WHY FORCED BULBS FAIL.
EELWORMS EATING THE ROOTS.
FOR a long time I was uncertain whether
eelworms (by this term I do not
mean the real creature, Heterodera
radicola, but a white, worm-like
grub with a black head, the larva of
a gnat-like fly) really destroyed the
living roots of bulbs, or that they were merely
scavengers, eating up roots which had already
decayed through the attacks of fungus or other
causes. Many an argument have I had with a
good Daffodil friend on this subject, he holding
to the scavenger view, while I upheld the other
theory. Then, some bulbs having been submitted
to an expert, my opinions were for a time upset
by him saying that the trouble was caused by a
fungus and not by the eelworm.
However, only just lately I have quite satisfied
myself by discovering the creatures actually at
work in the living roots of a Daffodil. Not out;
VIOLAS ARRANGEIl WITH YOUNG HAWTHORN SHOOTS FOR EXHIBITION, IN A PAN
OI- WET SILVER SAND.
February 28, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
105
only, but three or four were seeu in the field of
a small Coddington lens at one time, while the
effects of their ravages were plainly observable in
the tunnelled-out roots and frayed edges of the
same. 1 have not the slightest doubt but what
this pest is the principal cause of the failure of
bulbs in pots, accounts of which constantly appear
in your "Correspondence" columns and those
of your contemporaries. I feel almost certain
that these worms are not present in the dry bulbs,
but are in the potting soil. My reason for this
opinion is that one never finds bulbs attacked when
grown in fibre, but only when grown in fibrous loam.
Sterilisation of the soil seems to be the only
remedy, and when soil has been thus treated it
should be done some months before
it is used ; in the meantime it
should be turned several times, so
that it may get well aerated. I
have tried several soil sterilisers,
both liquid and solid, but the eel-
worm seems to thrive on them all. It
is curious to notice how " chancy "
the growing of bulbs is in infested
S(.)il. For instance, at the present
time I have a box of Daffodil
Golden Spur as good as one could
wish for, while another box of the
same bulbs in the same soil has
quite half the bulbs destroyed.
Anyone who has constantly suf-
fered from the attacks of eelworms
can tell at a glance when the bulbs
are affected, for, instead of the
leaves growing freely away as they
should, they make a feeble effort
and then come to a standstill, and
if the grower will take hold of the
growth and give a firm pull, he will
find the bulb come up without
much resistance, the roots having
been eaten away.
One may examine a great many
bulbs before finding the worms at
work, one reason being that, having
done their fell work, they may have
moved to fresh fields and pastures
new, and another reason being that
the wretches are rather lively in
their movements, and unless the
roots are examined immediately
after the bulb is removed from the
soil, they will have wriggled away
under cover of soil or the old skin
of the bulb.
Of course, eelworms are not the
only cause of failure in bulb forcing,
for some people can manage to spoil
the best of bulbs even without their
aid. Only quite lately my firm had
some bulbs of Daffodil Golden Spur sent by post
which only had one poor flower to six bulbs. On
examining these it was found that every bulb
had an embryo bud within, but the bulbs
had evidently been submitted to too much heat
and they had " gone blind," a disaster which
will often happen when bulbs are given too high
a temperature. Those who force large numbers
of bulbs for the cut-flower trade find that only
a few degrees will make the difference between
success and failure. This is especially the case with
Darwin Tulips. Mr. Leak of Messrs. Bath, Limited,
who made such a grand exhibit of these Tulips in
fibre last year, told me that it had taken him several
years to find out the exact temperature to suit them.
It is unfortunate that wiieu the average amateur
has a failure with his bulbs, he immediately lays the
blame on the bulbs themselves rather than on his
methods of cultivation or the soil used in potting.
The man of experience, on the other hand, looks to
every other thing (soil, temperature, watering, &c.)
before he thinks of condemning the bulbs.
Some years ago, when judging pots of Tulips
at the Midland Daffodil Show for prizes offered
by the late Mr. Robert Sydenham, I had a lesson
I have never forgotten. There were some six
entries for the prizes, and there one could see
very good, indifferent, and very poor plants, all
grown from the same bulbs supplied by one firm !
I wonder if the growers learned the same lesson
A CHANGE SEEDLING
Iris Cantab.
IKIS.
On this page appears an illustration, almost life-
size, of the new bulbous Iris which gained an
award of merit at a recent meeting of the Royal
Horticultural Society. This charming variety,
which has pale blue standards and pale violet falls,
with golden orange crests, originated as a chance
seedling in Mr. E. A. Bowles' garden at Waltham
Cross. It is probably derived from I. Krelagei or
Max Leichtlin's I. cyanea, both of which were
growing near to the place of origin. Although
not unusual for Irises of the reticulata group to
be weak in constitution, the new seedling, which,
by the by, was shown by Mr.
Herbert Chapman of Rye, grows
very freely and multiplies
rapidly, and for this reason
it is likely to prove quite an
acquisition for the open border.
The flowers, which are borne
about six inches from the
ground, are fragrant, while
they are far exceeded in height
by the vigorous, deep green
foliage.
THE CULTIVATION
OF COB NUTS
AND FILBERTS.
IRIS CANTAB,
A BEAUTIFUL CHANCE
CONSTITUTION.
SEEDLING OF STRONG
that I did, or whether the producers of the poor
pots went- away blaming our old friend " Uncle
Robert " for sending them poor bulbs ! I would
say, in conclusion, that turfy loam contains far
more insect-life, often including eelworm, than
does ordinary garden soil ; so it might be well for
those who have had bad results from bulbs grown
in turf to try their ordinary garden soil, to which
might be added sand, leaf-mould, Cocoanut
fibre, or anything in that line which would tend
to keep it open and sweet. In fact, it would be
better to relj' upon fibre only than to use soil
known to be infested with eelworm, unless it had
been previously sterilised.
Lowdham, Notts. J. Duncan Pearson.
Nuts and wine 1 This phrase
brings to mind a Georgian interior,
mahogany tables reflecting the
light from many candles, while
the port, with due solemnity,
makes its journey romid the
board. But, as times change, the
Nut becomes divorced from vinous
liquors and figures as the main
course of a vegetarian meal, a scene
of frugality contrasting strangely
with the older picture . But whether
we take our Nuts in the old or the
new style. Cobs and Filberts have
a special appeal to English tastes.
When the demands of these Nuts
as to soil are considered, it is
rather remarkable that they are
so little planted. They will
grow in practically any soil, but
in moist ground they are apt
to make wood rather too freely,
and it is upon dry and rocky
soUs that they floiu'ish best. In
Kent the limestone rock called
" ragstone " ofiers an admirable
subsoU, and with the smallest of loam deposits
on the surface the Cob grows to a remarkable
age. Trees of 200 years can be seen planted
12 feet to 15 feet apart, and as they are
tolerant of shade, Apples, Plums and other fruits
are grown as standards between them. There
must be many gardens where a dry, sloping bank
or a neglected corner exists which could be made
fruitful and pleasing to the eye by the planting
of Nuts. The varieties now are many. A learned
monograph in German lies before me which
describes some eighty-seven kinds. The average
gardener, however, will be content with rather
less than this, and a good selection will be as
follows.
106
THE GARDEN.
[Fkbruaky 38, 1914.
OUNNERAS GRSWING ON THE MARGIN OF
GARDEN.
The earliest to ript-n is the Prolific Filbert.
This old sort was found in a Norwich garden about
1840, and is remarkable by reason of its curiously
frizzled husks. The Nuts are small but sweet
and are produced in bunches, often as many as
twelve being found in one cluster. The Kent Cob
or Lambert Filbert, so called after its raiser,
Mr. Lambert of Goudhurst, Kent, is not really
a true Cob, but is the best all round Nut now
grown.
The distinction between Cobs and Filberts
is a very old one, and consists in the fact that in
the Cob the Nut is not fully covered by the husk,
while in the Filbert it is entirely so. The Kent
" Cob " is therefore properly a Filbert. The old
Kentish Filbert, which is considered by many to
be the best flavoured of all Nuts, has now largely
dropped out of cultivation on account of the greater
fertility of more modem kinds. Some of the best
Nuts are the seedlings raised by Mr. Webb of
Calcot about thirty years ago, and one of them,
Duke of Edinburgh, can be highly recommended
for its excellent flavour. The Cosford is a most
prolific variety, with a shell so thin that it may
be cracked in the fingers (fairly strong fingers
are required !), and Merveille de Bolwyller is
probably the largest of all, a vigorous grower
and of first-class flavour. The Purple-leaved
Filbert is perhaps more often seen in the shrubbery
than in the fruit garden, and its fruits are sometimes
overlooked, as the husk and shell are of the same
purplish red colour as
the leaves. .^= to the
culture of these
Nuts, there is hardly
a more long-suffering
plant in the fruit
garden ; but the
trc s will, neverthe-
less, repay occasional
manuring, and wiol
waste, rabbit fur, or
feathers are largely
used for this purpose
in commercial plan-
tations in Kent.
In the Maidstone
district a very re-
stricted pruning is
adopted, and a
basin-shaped tree is
preferred. The fruits
i>n these trees are
very large, naturally
more so than those
gathered from trees
where less thinning
is adopted, as in the
north of Kent. The
crops obtained from
these trees are very
variable, but are
estimated at 7cwt.
to 8cwt, per acre
uver a series of
years, while in years
when there is a
shortage, such as the
present, the price of
the Nuts is often
13. a pound or even
more. Altogether
there is no more
useful plant to fill
up odd comers of
the garden, giving with so little expenditure of time
so satisfactory a return. E. A. Buxv.^rd,
ROCK AND WATER-SIDE
GARDEN AT COPPED HALL.
A POOL IN .A.X ESSEX
COPPED H.\LL, Epping, was at one
time a retreat of pleasure and
privacy for the Abbots of Waltham.
At the present time il is owned by
E, J, Wythes, Esq,, who cherishes
not only the historical associations
of Copped Hall and its surroundings, but also the
immense trees and the rare beauty of the spacious
flower garden and lawns, which are pleasantly
designed and admirably maintained. Remnants
of the ancient garden of the monks are to be seen
in the grand old Yew avenue which was figured
in our issue of February 14, while the old-time
interest of the garden is enhanced by the presence
of venerable trees of the Cedar of Lebanon and a
remarkably fine specimen of the Deciduous Cypress,
Taxodium distichum. The Yew avenue leads
to a shady and sequestered dell, now converted
into a rock garden of rare beauty and delight.
Although the position is ton shady for many
flowers of the High Mps, which rejoice in all the
light and air they may receive, yet there are many
shade-loving plants which furnish this dell and
make bright patches of colour at varying seasons.
whUe the neighbouring !ree trunks are clothed
with Ampelopsis and Clematises in variety. Though
it was in the dull time of the year that our visit
was made, the fine effects created by perennial
Candytuft, Cerastiums, Campanulas, Primulas,
the .'American Wood Lily (Trillium), dwarf perennial
-Asters, London Pride and .Aubrietias may easily
be conceived, A little stream flows through the
rock garden, and is crossed by stepping-stones
partly hidden by the River Mimulus, Primulas
of the japonica type, Saxifraga cordifolia and
Fems in variety, of which the Hart's-toagiie
(Scolopendrium vulgare) and the Oak Fem (Po'y-
podium Dryopteris), to.gether with Aspidiums and
the Royal Fem (Osmunda regalis), are used with
charming effect ; while growing by the stream-
side are such hardy aquatics as Butomus, AJisma,
Caltha palustris and Typha angustifolia. .\
beautiful collection of suitable shrubs, including
Cntoneasters or Rocksprays, Japanese Acers
in great variety, Berberis stenophylla, B. Darwinii,
.\zaleas, Hypericums. Kerria japonica and Bam-
boos, is planted with good effect in the back-
ground of the rock garden. Flowering shrubs
form one of the most delightful features of this
garden, and many of Wilson's introductions from
China were noted, while rarely, if ever, is Romneya
Coulteri, the Califomian Tree Poppy, seen grown
to greater perfection than against a wall in these
gardens. In another part of the grounds is seen
a large pool of water, which is being converted
into a place of unusual splendour. Gunnera
manicata looks magnificent planted on the margin
of the pool, while later on the bank will be gay
with the blooms of Japanese Anemones (pink
and white), Siberian Irises, Rodgersias, golden-
striped Rush, and Kniphofias or Torch Lilies.
Bamboos and Weeping Willows are also planted
to great advantage.
COLOURED PLATE.
PLATE 1488.
THE COLUMBINES.
Jk QUILEGIAS have long inhabited our
f\ gardens, and in a Herbal which bears
/ % the date of 1564 Dr. Turner mentions
^^■^% A. vulgaris. This is the botanical
^ ^ name of the common Columbine, and
single and double forms of various
colours are found in abundance in gardens all
over the country. Several very charming species
were introduced into England in the first half
of last century, and these beautiful Ranunculads
are undoubtedly the forerunners of the exquisite
strains of long-sprured hybrids found in commerce
to-day. Aquilegias are somewhat widely dis-
tributed over the globe, and species have been
introduced from the dry, rocky districts of North-
west Himalaya, from Siberia, Europe, Canada,
and from Guatemala.
Many of the species introduced into England
have ceased to find a place in catalogues, and
their place has doubtless been taken by the long-
spurred hybrids^'-'One of the best of the species
was A. leptoceras, the Slender-horned Columbine,
and under this nameft was figured in thc^olaiiical
Register, 64, It is described in the Journal of
the Horticultural Society as having flowers of a
pale bright violet, with the tips of the sepals
greenish, the short petals a clear bright straw
colour. It is a native of Siberia beyond Lake
Baical. .A. jucunda, another native of Siberia,
at one time known as the Joyous Columbine,
Pebruary 28, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
107
is rarely met with in gardens. It differs somewhat
from A. glandulosa, having an altogether dwarfer
habit and flowers of a much brighter blue, and
in its very glaucous, round foliage. It is a much
easier cultivated species than A. glaridulosa,
and a very pretty coloured plate of it appeared
in the Floricuitural Cabinet, tor May, 1857. In
the ^ame journal a coloured figure is also given
of A. kanaogriensis^a native of Cashmere, intro-
duced to the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew by
Dr. Thomson. The flowers, about half the size
■of those of A. jucunda, are nearly similar in colour,
and it is not met with, nor even listed, nowadays.
It was also figured in the Botanical Magazine,
4,693. The Floricuitural Cabinet for August,
1853, -in a description of new or showy plants in
bloom during that month at the Royal Gardens,
Kew, mentions A. sibirica and A. fragrans^
Both are said to be showy, the former having
large, deep blue coloured flowers, and the latter
having very large flowers with the outside blue
and the interior white,, 'They are seldom met
with now. Many other species were in culti-
vation about that time, and one of the most
notable was A. alpina. This is one of the gems
among the Aquilegias, and the true form is exceed-
ingly scarae now. It is offered in lists, but the
true A. alpina is hard to obtain. It is a native
of the European Alps, bearing immense, spreading
blossoms of a charming shade of blue.
Coming to the species that are very probably
the parents of the long-spurred hybrids, one of
the loveliest is A. glandulosa. This beautiful
native of Siberia has exquisite flowers of clear
blue, with white below, ^t is a difficult sort to
^ow well.
During recent years a hybrid variety named
A. Helenas has been introduced, and it is said
to resemble A. glandulosa. The writer has tried
it, and discarded it as worthless. Undoubtedly
the best of the hybrids from A. glandulosa that
have received a name is A. Stuartii, raised by
the late Dr. Stuart of Chirnside, the well-known
Viola raiser, and distributed by Messrs. Cocker
of Aberdeen. This hybrid, like its parent, is
diflicult to cultivate well ; but we now have
many unnamed hybrids in the long-spurred
section that are quite as charming, and have the
virtue of being easily grown. A. chrysantha, a
tall, graceful plant with clear yellow, long-spurred
flowers, has left its stamp almost indelibly upon
■the long-spurred hybrids of to-day, and is certainly
one of the species from which they have originated.
It is a native of New Mexico. A. Skinneri, at
one time named A. mexicana, is another species
to which we owe biu" modern varieties. This well-
known Columbine has crimson red flowers tipped
with orange, and the green mouth of the blossom
is a conspicuous feature. A. californica, a pretty
native of North America, is certainly another
parent of the long-spurred hybrids. The spurs
and petals of the flowers are a vivid orange red,
and the mouths of the tubes deep yellow. Doubt-
less A. Skinneri, A. californica, A. caerulea, A.
chrysantha, and in all probability either A.
glandulosa or A. Stuartii are the species from
which the long-spurred hybrids have been derived
in conjunction with the many garden forms of A.
vulgaris.
Quite a number of the leading seed firms have
given a lot of attention in recent years to the
development of the long-spurred Aquilegias,
and the wonderful exhibits of them seen in the
early summer at the Royal Horticultural Society's
meetings are always a cantre oi interest. Efforts
have b«en made to get the more beautiful forms
to breed true to colour from seed, but this has
never been done quite successfully. As already
indicated, the new race of long-spurred varieties
is easily grown. It is advisable to sow seed as
early as possible, in order to get strong plants
for putting out in September. Some growers
believe in sowing the seed as soon as it is ripe,
just for the purpose of getting the plants as forward
as possible. They succeed in almost any good
garden soil, but to obtain large, fine flowers the
beds ought to be deeply cultivated and well
manured., Quite one of the finest plantations"
of~SquIIegias we ever saw was at Messrs. Dobbie
and Co.'s seed farm in Essex. A very large bed
was planted out for seed ten years ago, and last
summer it was flourishing amazingly ; in fact,
most of the flowers depicted in our coloured plate
were obtained from that bed, and we are indebted
to Messrs. Dobbie and Co. for sending the collection
of flowers to our artist.
311
HARDY CHINESE PRIMULAS
(Continued from page 93.)
P. Cockburniana (Hemsl.). — This member of
the Candelabra section ^vas introduced in 1906
from Tatsienlu, Central Szechwan, by Messrs.
James Veitch and
Sons, and was col-
lected by Mr. Wilson.
Its brilliant orange
scarlet flowers at
once attracted the
notice of the public.
Unfortunately, it has
not proved so satis-
factory in cultivation
as was desired, and
many apparently
have to cultivate it
as a biennial. It is 7,
a free seeder, and its
short life in gardens
is therefore not of so
much consequence.
In some places it is
quite perennial, but
not always under the
same conditions. It
is naturally a lover of
moisture, yet some-
times is perennial in
dry, well-drained soil
and even in clay. It
has Primrose - like
leaves and whorls of
stalked flowers on
scapes about a foot
or more high.
P. Cockburniana
Hybrids. — Crossed
with P. pulverulent a,
P. Cockburniana has
produced some beau-
tiful hybrids. P. x
Unique is a hand-
some plant with cop-
pery brown flowers.
This, recrossed, has ^Hi^K ' ^1^^^
given P. X Excelsior, ^^|h^>^ , .«i_" T'*5
a deeper - coloured ^^B^^KK^f&L^^Wi'^ ^
but less hardy plant
than Unique. STEPPING STONES [N
P. X Lissadell Hybrid, which is the reverse cross
to Unique, is a finer c'rnt than Unique, and
is hardier and more deo;>ly coloured. On a damp
soil I find these hardy and satisfactory. Culti-
vation : Good rich loamy soil in half stm.
P. cortusoides lichiangensis (G. Forrest). —
This is now generally known as P. lichiangensis
(G. Forrest). It is a good garden plant, easy to
grow, even in the border, and quite a satisfactory
subject. It resembles the valuable P. Veitchii,
but is distinguished from that species by the
foliage, which is not white beneath, being less
hairy, and by the larger, more drooping flowers,
which have also a larger eye. The anthers are
yellow in P. Veitchii, but purple in P. lichiangensis.
It was collected by Mr. Forrest in the Tali region,
Yimnan, and introduced in igo8 by Messrs, Bees,
Limited. Cultivation : Any good soil ; easily
grown in half shade,
P. deflexa (Duthie). — The plants of this section
(Muscaroides) are generally of difficult cultivation
in a wet climate, owing to the hairs on the leaves ;
but P. deflexa appears to be the easiest to grow.
It has rather erect-growing leaves, covered vrith
downy hairs, and close spikes of narrow, lilac
purple or bluish flowers, which, like the others
of the section, are curved in the calyx and corolla
so as to assume a drooping form. It is exceed-
ingly fragrant. P, deflexa, which comes from
THE ROCK GARDEN AT COPPED HALL.
108
THE GARDEN.
[February 28. 1914,
Western China, was raised from seeds sent by
Mr. Wilson. It flowered in r9o6. Cultivation :
Good garden soil with ample drainage ; shady
situation.
P. denticulata (Smith). — This, or an allied
form, is described as from Mcngtsz in South-
East Yunnan. As it is more general in the
Himalayas, it will be referred to in my notes on
the Himalayan Primulas. P. pseudo-denticulata
(Pax) is earlier than the type from India.
P. Forrestii (Balf. fils). — introduced from the
Tali region of Yunnan in rgoS by Messrs. Bees
from seeds sent by their collector, Mr. Forrest.
This distinct Primula has been found difficult
to cultivate. It has massive stems, large masses
of evergreen leaves, and yellow,
sweet-scented flowers. It does not
do well with me in the open, but
in some places thrives on dry rock
or in a retaming wall. It belongs
to the section Suffruticosa, of
which there are few representa-
tives in cultivation.
P. Gagnepainii (Petitue). — This
is synonymous with P. heucheri-
foUa (Franch.) and resembles
cortusa Matthiolii in its general
appearance. It is very hardy and
easily gro^vn. The drooping lilac
purple flowers are carried on stems
several inches high. This Primula
was introduced under the name
of P. Gagnepainii by Miss Willmot t ,
who received seeds from Mr.
Wilson. Section Geranoides. Cul-
tivation : Will grow in any soil
and in any situation.
P. Giraldiana (Pax) was intro-
duced by Messrs. Bees in 1908 and
sent out under the name of P.
muscaroides. It belongs to the
same section as P. deflexa, to which
it has a strong resemblance ; but
on a minute comparison marked
differences emerge. While P.
deflexa is sweetly scented, P.
Giraldiana is scentless. In the
former the foliage is downy and
the stems covered with white hairs ;
in the latter the leaves have fewer,
though larger, hairs, and the stems
are hairless. The very small
bracts of P. Giraldiana; as well as
its flowers, are purple. It was
collected in Yunnan by Mr.
Forrest. Cultivation : No doubt
in some places this plant may
prove perennial in the open,
but with me it does not. 1
grow it in pots in a cold house SAXIFR.\ga
in soil composed of two parts
pulverised loam, one part leaf-soil, one part silver
sand ; in half shade. John Macwatt.
{To he continued.)
distinct, for, instead of producing a spike, it sends
up a raceme with spreading branches 2 incflics
long, as depicted in the illustration. It is impera-
tive that this plant should not suffer from damp,
and for that reason it is best grown like S. Grise-
bachii. either in pots or planted nut on a small
cone of stones.
ROSE-GROWING IN TOWN
GARDENS.
CLIMBERS FOR WALLS AND FENCES.
The Roses best suited for growing against walls
include most of the Noisettes, Hybrid Tea and Tea
MEDIA, A LITILE-KNOWN SPECIES FROM THE PYRENEES
A RARE SAXIFRAGA (S. MEDIA).
There are certain members of the genus Saxifraga
that are particularly difficult to cultivate. Saxi-
fraga flnrulenta and S. Grisebachii are two species
which readily occur to mind. In S. media we
have another that is likely to give a good deal
of trouble in order to cultivate it successfully.
Wnen not in flower, this species closely resembles
S. Grisebachii, possessing a similar compact
rosette of leaves. In flower, however, it is quite
Roses of climbing habit. For walls facing south,
the Noisettes RSve d'Orand Mme. .\lfred Carriere,
the Hybrid Teas Climbing .Mrs. W. J. Grant and
Frangois Crousse, and Tea Rambler (Rosa multi-
flora scandens) are among the best sorts for towns.
Noisettes require to become well established
before they will bloom satisfactorily, and little
can be expected of them until the third 3'ear
after planting. RSve d'Or is somewhat tender,
and should be grown only in the most sheltered
spots. Mme. .Alfred Carriftre, the best white
climber, grows well, is sweetly scented, beautiful
for decoration and quite hardy. Climbing Mrs.
W. J. Grant is rather subject to mildew, but growers
u-ith whom it succeeds will be more than amply
repaid for their care and trouble. A light, rich
soil suits it best, and when well established it
should be kept going with liberal supplies of
manure. The blooms are of a delightful shade
of glowing rose pink, and are among the earliest
to open and the last to go. Franfois Crousse
also appears to prefer rather light soil, and
needs a sunny wall to bring out the best of its
colouring, which is a bright crimson. Large-
flowered climbers of this shade are none too
numerous, and are often asked for. Tea Rambler
(coppery pink) is pretty and useful, and almost
the only multiflora that is at home on a wall.
With a westeriy aspect Mme. Alfred Carridre,
W'illiam .•Ulen Richardson (Nois-
ette) and Reine Olga de Wurtcm-
burg will do well. The latter is
a semi-double Rose, crimson in
colour, with fine foliage. William
Alien Richardson, orange yellow in
the bud. fading almost to white in
the expanded blooms, is sufficiently
well known to need no description.
Walls facing east will suit Mme.
-Alfred Carrifere, Climbing Mrs. W.
J. Grant, Gloire de Dijon (Tea),
-Alister Stella Gray (Noisette),
Climbing Caroline Testout (Hybrid
Tea) and Conrad F. Meyer (rugosa).
The last named is a fine, useful
Rose of a silvery pink shade,
especially desirable because it
usually produces the first large,
well-shaped bloorri out of doors ;
but the plant is rather prone to
mildew when placed against a wall.
.Ahster Stella Gray, buff, with
orange centre, is particularly good
in the autumn. Very few Roses
will do well on a wall facing north,
and in town gardens, where other
advantages are denied them, it
seems rather like cruelty to plant
them there. Faicit^ Perpetue, to
which I referred in a previous
article as a Rose for a bad spot, is
a notable exception, and Bennett's
Seedling may also be made to
grow in such a position.
Points to Remember. — At the
foot of a wall or fence the soil is
much drier than in the open border,
and consequently climbers so
placed will need careful mulching
and hoeing, especially when first
planted. The difficulty in getting:
a plant to start satisfactorily may
generally be traced to dryness at
the root during the first season. In
planting, all the roots should !*•
fan shape, and should all point
away from the wall.
Pruning. — .All climbers for walls should be cut
down the lirst season, so that only the strongest
rods are left longer than a foot, and none more
than 3 feet above the groiuid. -Afterwards it
becomes a matter of thinning rather than pruning,
but unripe and dead wood must always be cut
away. When growths arc overcrowded, thinning:
is best done in the autumn, the oldest shoots
being selected for removal. Hybrid Tea and!
Tea Roses may be primed b.ick slightly, btit
RSve d'Or and other Noisettes should be left
almost untouched. P. L. Goduaud.
spread out
"iiipplnucnl fo THE GARDEN, Erbninry z'itli, ior4.
'^>ME NEW LONG-SPURRED COLUMBINES
Hudson & Keanis, Ltd., Printers, London, S.E.
February 28, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
109
GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.
IROSES FOR SMALL BEDS.
/^ I > HE wild Bramble and the Dog
Rose in the hedgerows look quite
charming when gro\ving .in masses,
really in an overcrowded state. The
garden Rose crowded in small beds
would not be as attractive, because it
ftvould present a very untidy appearance, the
•flowers would not be quite true to character,
.and the wood would not mature properly, so
'that the cultivator would meet with difficulties
.and much disappointment in future years. We
jnust be content and wise enough to put in just
.as many Roses as the small bed will contain ;
ithen the plants will thrive.
There is often a certain amount of shade in a
-suburban garden. Well, many varieties of strong-
rgrowing Hybrid Perpetuals will do nicely in such
rpositions, especially the dark red and deep pink
•ones, as the blooms do not fade so quickly as
when the plants are grown in an open position fully
■exposed to the sun's rays. The strong-growing
.Hybrid Teas may also be planted in partial shade.
That grand old favourite Gloire de Dijon does
uremarkably well there ; the tints in the petals are
imuch deeper and richer.
Ground may still be prepared and Roses planted.
The soil must be deeply dug, the lower portion
"well broken up at the time, and the top left in a
trough state. It is not necessary to put in any
imanure. The latter can be applied in the form
.of a mulch after the Roses are planted. Standards
.and dwarts may be grown in the same bed — one
•standard in the centre of a small bed, and
[three in a larger one. Such beds are full of
HOW TO PRUNE DWARF .A.ND STANDARD
ROSES.
linterest to the cultivator when there is no
• overcrowding. Fig. i shows how the cultivator
.must prune a strong-gromng dwarf ; and Fig. 2
a young standard.
It is too early to do the work yet, because,
if the shoots are cut now, the buds that are left
■would quickly burst into growth. The young
ishoots formed would be very susceptible to injury
from cold winds and night frosts that are always
experienced during March and the early part
of April. If pruning is delayed for at least another
three weeks, the lower buds will remain dormant,
and in that condition will not be harmed by
cold weather.
HARDY BORDER FLOWERS.
Untidy borders should not be tolerated in any
garden. When one plant is allowed to grow
into another, when old flower and leaf stems are
left to decay on the plants, and when foreign
matter is allowed to remain choldng the young
shoots of clumps of plants, the result is very
unsatisfactory. The border is not attractive,
and it actually makes the whole garden look
untidy.
The new border must not be made by simply
turning over the surface soil a few inches deep,
and then putting in a few kinds of plants in a
haphazard way. No ; this will not do at all.
The cultivator must trench the soil and do every-
thing in a deliberate manner with the firm intention
of having a really beautiful border, as it will go
such a long way towards ensuring a beautiful
garden. Then it will be advisable to plan the
border for the plants, which should be mostly
herbaceous. Some hardy annuals will be useful
for filling up vacant places later on. The tallest-
growing of the herbaceous plants must have
positions near the back of the border, those of
medium height in the centre, and the dwarf ones
at the front. Before planting, make a rough
plan of the border on paper, marking the positions
so as to have harmony of colour and a regular
succession of blossom Irom early in the summer
till late in the autum i.
In the case of small borders, single specimens
of many kinds of plants may be used ; but where
the border is broad and proportionate in length,
clumps containing three, five, or seven plants
would have the best effect. A good background
forms a suitable setting for such border plants.
Where there is no neat shrubbery, a row
or clumps of Sweet Peas would do nicely.
Hedges, neatly kept, will do. Wooden fences
should be clothed with suitable climbing
plants. On a low fence, quick-growing climbers,
planted 6 feet apart, would do well and soon
cover it.
In most mixed borders groups of spring-flowering
bulbs, such as Daffodils, Tulips and Crocuses,
are planted near the front, and these add con-
siderably to the charm of the borders during the
early months of the year. Unfortunately, when
their flowers have departed, there is a more or
less obvious gap, and this is where annual flowers
are particularly useful. If seeds of such hardy
kinds as Mignonette, Sweet Alyssum, Virginian
Stock, Godetia, Clarkia, pot Marigold, Swan
River Daisy, pink Mallow and Candytuft are
sown between the bulbs at the end of March or
early in April, the seedlings will be well advanced
by the time the foliage of the bulbs is dead, and
in the late summer and autumn will give a glorious
display of flowers. If half-hardy kinds, such as
Asters, Stocks, Nemesias and Zinnias are pre-
ferred, these can be raised in a cool frame or
greenhouse and planted out between the bulbs
about the third week in May. One of the chief
values of annuals is their suitability for filling
temporary gaps during the summer and autumn
months, and beginners \, .uld do well to utilise
them more for this purpose.
CHARMING CLIMBERS.
In nearly every garden climbing plants can be
used to very great advantage. A few arches
are soon erected ; the more rustic-looking the
better. Rough posts, too, will be found useful :
and in the largest gardens, or in any affording the
necessary space, pergolas would look very attrac-
tive. Avoid the erection of structures that
are too light to withstand strong winds. The
bare structure may, at first, stand all right ;
but when it is clothed with branches and leaves
a greater strain is imposed, and it may be
quickly destroyed, also the plants on it. There-
fore be sure that the wood used is of sufficient
strength.
A pergola must be erected over a straight path,
arches too may go there ; but the latter look
well at the junction of paths and at almost
any other point. Beside garden paths, dotted
here and there, posts covered with climbers have
a charming appearance. Below is shown a
quite plain arch spanning the garden walk.
It is well to fix the upright posts a few inches
away from the edges of the paths to allow
room for the branches of the climbers.
Of course, we cannot exclude the lovely climbing
Roses. Then there are the fragrant Honey-
suckles, the noble Wistarias, suitable for the long
ARCH SPANNING GARDEN PATH.
pergolas, also the Vines, which possess such
richly coloured leaves. Clematises are charming.
Ceanothuses clothe posts beautifully, and, if
novelties are desired, put in a few plants of Wilson
Junior Blackberry and Japanese Wineberries.
Both kinds fruit freely and form a contrast in
the colour of the berries, and both will thrive i»
gardens neajr towns. G. G.
110
THE GARDEN.
[February 28, 1914-
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FO« SOUTHERN GARDENS.
The Fruit-Houses.
Early Permanent Vines.— Tf all has gone svell
with Dccemher-started Vines, the bunches should
now be readv for thinning, and this should be done
with sreat 'care. CarefuUv avoid touching the
b-inrhes with the hand, and d» not thin too hard
at first. Stop the shoots at the second or third
leaf beyond the bunch, and gradually work them
down to the wires a little at a time. Damp the
floor and vacant parts of the bed twice daily.^bu
avoid steam. The temperature may be 70 at
night, rising to 85° by day with sun-heat.
Strawberries.— The early batch of plants will
now have set their fruits, and should be placed
near the glass in a warm forcing-house. Syrnige
the toliage twice daiiv, and give frequent waterings
with weak liquid manure. A shelf at the back of
a Melon or Cucumber house will suit them well.
Continua to introduce plants to gentle heat as
required.
The Plant-Houses.
Gloriosa superba.— The roots, having been
dormant lor some time, should now be potted up
and placed in comfortable quarters. Loam and
neat in equal parts, with a good quantity of rough
silver sand will suit them. Cover the roots about
two iiches, and if the soil is in good «ondition very
litt' ■ water will be necessary until growth shows
th-.ough the surface of the soil, but the atmosphere
s'.iould be kept moist.
{{Qges Plants in pots which were started early
will aow be growing freely and shoNving the^ir
'lowers At this stage they may be given light
i' cssings of guano, which is one of the most
r'.-liable manures for this purpose. Overhead
-v'-inging should be discontinued, or mildew may
pn.ve troublesome. Ventilate carefully at the
top of the house, and fumigate if green or black
flv should make its appearance, Permanejit Rose
niants in cool houses will now requure liberal
supplies of liquid manure at the roots. Avoid
cold draughts.
The Flower Garden.
yjolas If these plants have been wintered in
cold pits 'the lights may be removed whenever the
weather is favourable, so that the plants may be
.rrown as stocky and short-jointed as possible^
Stir the soil between the plants, and remove all
small weeds.
Calceolarias.— The tops may now be pinched,
and the young plants should either be potted up
or transplanted m a cold pit in order to prevent
them becoming drawn.
Herbaceous Phloxes.— To grow these to perfec-
tion it is necessary to trench the soil to a depth ot
-> feet and give a good dressing of decayed manure.
The position should be somewhat sheltered from
the sun during the warmest part of the day or
the colour of many of the best varieties will be
impaired. In lifting and preparing the roots for
planting, pull them to pieces with the hand, and
plant pieces capable of producing three or our
spikes each ; by this means better flowers will be
produced than if larger clumps are used. Allow
2 feet between the plants, and if hot, dry weather
sets in, mulch the bed with decayed manure and
give plenty of water at the roots.
^ Climbers on Walls should be pruned and
leeulated without delay. No hard-and-fast rule
can be laid down as to the manner in which the
different climbing plants should be pruned and
trained The position in which they are growing
has a great deal to do with this ; but in all cases
overcrowding must be avoided.
Roses of the Rambler type should be carefuUy
thinned out, removing as much of the old wood as
ran be spared and tying in the strong, young
growths of last season's production. These Koses
are not adapted for walls; but for pergolas or
pillars where the air can pass freely among them
they are well suited.
Hardy Fruit.
Mulberries, Medlars and Nuts.— The branches
,,f these should now be carefully thinned _so that
pruning of these may be delayed until the catkins
are formed.
Pruning Young Trees.— The pruning of young
trees is an important matter, and should be per-
formed with great care, as the future of a tree
largely depends on the way tliis work is performed
during the early stages of its growth. The branches
of a perfect tree should be furnished with fruiting
spurs from top to base, and should be sufficiently
thin for the sun to reach the centre. To attain
this end, trees which were planted a year ago
should be carefully thinned, leaving only sufficient
branches coming directly from the stem, and these
should now be shortened back according to their
strength, and to a bud inclining outwards.
The Kitchen Garden.
Lettuce. — Yonng plants raised from seed in
January should now be ready for planting in cold
frames. The soil for this purpose must be light
and rich, and within 18 inches of the glass. Allow
a space of 6 inches between the plants each way,
and when sufficiently advanced half the crop may
be cut for immediate use, leaving every second
plant to develop. Autumn-sown Lettuce should
now be planted on a warm south border. Slugs
will be their greatest enemy, but may be kept in
check by frequent dustings of lime in the early
morning.
Peas. — T.ie early sown Peas will now require
protection from rough wind. A few Spruce boughs
should be placed along the rows for a few weeks.
Let the stakes be placed in position as soon as
possible. The early sowings in pots should be
freely ventilated in a cold pit. Keep the plants
near the glass, and do all that is possible to keep
them stocky.
Potatoes. — These may now be planted on a warm
south border, where pri.itection from frost can be
applied if necessary. The sets of second-early
and maincrop varieties should be laid out thinly
in a cool shed in order to promote the growth of
sturdy shoots. A change of seed is advisable,
especially if obtained from Ireland or Scotland.
Royal'Gardens, Windsor. John Dun.n.
FOR
light and air may pass freely among them. Ren
all suckers from the base of Nut trees but
Remove
the
NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
The Hot-Bed. — For obvious reasons the raising of
seed and the production of a few early vegetables
must have the protection of a hot-bed. If this
has not been done, no time should be lost in
getting together the necessary quantity of manure.
This should be turned several times to prevent
it becommg heated, and if it becomes too dry, a little
water may be sprinkled over it from time to time.
During the iinal turning add a quantity of dry
leaves, which, I think, help to maintain a steadier
heat. For growing vegetables, about a foot of
soil will be ample,
Brassicas. — Most members of the Brassica family
may now be sown out of doors. But it will not be
wise to sow all the seed at once, especially in the case
of Cauliflower, Cabbage and Brussels Sprouts,
At the very least two sowuigs should be made.
At the outset it will be wise to place a double
net over the seed about two feet from the ground.
This will not only act as a protection against
birds, but I find it also acts as a protection for
the young plants towards the end of the month.
Leeks. — The main crop of Leeks may now be
sown out of doors. Many make this sowing
in cold frames, but I do not think this is at all
necessary. My experience is that they do equally
well on a warm border. It is, however, essential
that the seed should be sown thinly; otherwise
one never gets sturdy plants for transplanting.
Carrots. — A small sowing of Early Horn Carrots
may now be made on a south border. It will
not be wise, however, to put in more than a few
rows, because if these are not used in a young
state they will most certainly run to seed.
Celery. — Those who did not make a sowing
last month may now put in a little seed of one of
the dwarf varieties. In the majority of cases
this sowing will be quite early enough. As pre-
viously advised, see that the young plants do not
receive a check, cither through lack of moisture
at the roots or extreme fluctuations "■ •■•"
temperature.
Cucumbers. — For those who grow Cucumbers
in c jUi frames, seeds may be sown any time
during the coming week. They should be sown
in small pots. In cold districts' it is good policy
to pot them on, at least into 6-inch pots. By
the time they are established in these pots they
may be safely transferred to the frames. They
will, of course, need a little protection on cold
nights, and in tke earlier stages of growth little
or no air should be admitted.
The Flower Garden.
Larkspur. — This lovely annual is becoming
more popular each season, and little wonder, as,
apart from its attractiveness as a bedding plant,
it is especially effective for decorative purposes
indoors. It has, however, a nasty habit of going
oS mysteriously, even up to the time of flowering,.
To get over this, many gardeners treat it as a hardy
annaal, and sow' it where it is to remain. Per-
sonally, I have always treated it as half-hardy,,
and, with the exception of a few odd plants going
oi¥, have been able to make a wonderfully effec-
tive display with it. I usually give the ground a
good dressing of lime before planting. Sow the seeds
now and bring them on gently, as coddling in any
shape would only be courting failure. When
large enough, prick out the seedlings into frames
and plant out about the' beginning of May, I
find they do best if planted in a border by them-
selves, or at least in large patches in a mixed,
border.
Mignonette. — This is such a common plant
and its requirements so well known that one need
say very little about it. Yet one hears numerous
complaints about its fickleness, and many times
I have been asked if I could account for its failure
to germinate. Some years ago I saw a long:
border sown entirely with Mignonette and only
a few plants appeared, whereas the following season
almost every seed grew, which would suggest
that there was something wrong with the prepara-
tion of the seed-bed. Before sowing see that
the ground is made very firm (this I consider
essential), and thin out the plants when quite
small. If this is not attended to, the plants
will last only a short time in bloom.
Pillar Roses. — No time should be lost in com-
pleting the work of tying up pillar Roses and'
other climbing plants, 'as after this date much
damage may be done to the young shoots, which
will now be very prominent.
the
Plants Under Glass.
Hydrangeas. — These indispensable greenhouse
plants can he had in bloom over a very long period
of the year. Cuttings may be rooted now, and
again in the autumn. Those struck now will
produce immense heads by September, while
those rooted in the autumn will flower the following
spring and summer. Older plants may now be
brought from their winter quarters and pruned.
They will be found to make fine specimens for
the conservatory.
Salvia splendens.— Old plants of this useful
winter-flowering Salvia should now be looked
over, partly cut back, and placed in a warm
vinery to produce cuttings. Like all other Salvias,
this variety is a rapid grower, and cuttings put in
at the end of this month will make handsome plants
towards the end of September,
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Strawberries.— Where planting was not done
in the autumn, the present will be a suitable time
to get this done, although it will not be wise
to delay this work much longer. Those planted
now should have the flowers pinched off as they
appear, which will assist the plant to build up the
crown for fruiting the following season.
Planting and Pruning.— The planting and
pruning ol all hardv fruit, which, through various,
causes, could not be done earlier, should now be
completed.
Fruits Under Glass.
Melons.— This is a crop that must he regulated
according to requirements, .At this season Melons
will take fourteen to fifteen weeks from the sowing
of the seed until the fruit is ripe. Midsummer
crops will take twelve to thirteen weeks. It will
always be wise to allow a little longer in each case,
as one never gets good flavour unless the house
is well ventilated as the fruits approach the
ripening stage, John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis ol Lmlithgow,)
Hopetoun Gardens, South Quccnstcrry, N.B.
February 28, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
Ill
THE USE OF LIME IN THE
GARDEN.
b
Cis 'present to a greater or less extent
in all soils excepting peat and the
poorer sands. Its presence is essential
to the maintenance of fertility, as it
has many important duties to perform,
both in the soil and in the body of the
plant itself. Yet, strictly speaking, it is not a
food — 'that is, it is not actually required in the
intimate chemical structure of the living parts
of the plant. Nevertheless, it contributes more
than anything else to the proper nutrition and
general health of our crops. So far as its beneficial
actions in the soil are concerned, in the first place
its presence improves the physical or mechanical
condition of both light and heavy soils. It binds
sands and improves the texture of stiff clays.
The great fault of a clay is its extreme closeness
of texture ; the individual grains are so minute
and they are packed so closely together that little
space is left for air or for the downward movement
of water. The presence of lime causes these
grains to coagulate into little groups or masses,
and so opens the soil and thus materially improves
i ts texture. Certain obvious results follow :
The movement of water through the soil is rendered
easier and more rapid, the soil dries quicker in
the spring, and this favours earlier warmth and,
as a result, earlier crops. The consolidation
following the application of lime to light soils
increases their water-holding power, an important
factor during a dry growing season.
In the second place, lime exercises important
chemical activities in the soil. It is a well-known
fact that lime readily neutralises acids. Lime-
water added to sour milk will correct its acidity,
and chalk added to vinegar will act in the same
way and produce the same kind of result. Similarly,
quicklime or ground limestone mixed with a sour
soil will neutralise its acidity and render it sweet
and wholesome to the roots. The application
of lime in some form or other is the only practical
method open to a gardener to correct sourness
in the soil. An acid soil is very distasteful to the
roots of the majority of cultivated crops, and,
furthermore, it interferes with the activities of
useful soil bacteria. On the other hand, such
root diseases as club-root are encouraged by
acidity of the soil. The particular form of fungus
that induces this disease can only thrive and
multiplv in a soil which is acid in its reaction ;
therefore a generous application of lime to such
a soil is the only real practical method of com-
bating this troublesome form of disease. It is
because of this peculiarity that cruciferous crops
on calcareous soils are never affected with c'.ub-
root. In tiiis connection it ought to be remem-
bered that the use of certain artificial manures —
superphosphate of lime and sulphate of ammonia
especially — tends to destroy the carbonate of
lime present in the soil, and thus by their con-
tinued use bring about an undesirable acidity
unless corrected by the occasional application
of fresh supplies of lime. It is not only in con-
nection with the question of acidity that the
chemical activities of lime favour the gardener's
work. Lime has a direct influence upon the
liberation of plant food that otherwise might
remain locked up in an insoluble state. This is
especially true with respect to phosphorus and
potash, two of the three most valuable constituents
of the food of garden crops. By the action of
lime the insoluble salts of these essential elements
are gradually brought into solution in soil water.
It is, however, in its third relationship that
lime exercises such a potent influence upon the
fertility of a soil, namely, in its relation to the
biological activities of the soil. .Apart from the
direct application of such " artificial " nitrogenous
manure as nitrate of soda, all the nitrogenous
food of crops is prepared for the roots through
the agency of living bacteria. The chief source
of supply is the organic matter or humus present
in all garden soils. Dead roots, fallen leaves,
ordinary stable manure, &c., all contribute to
the soil's store of humus. But before any such
material can be utilised as food by crops, it must
be broken down or fermented by vast hordes of
putrefactive or decay bacteria. The most impor-
tant end product of decay is ammonia, because
it contains the valuable nitrogen in its chemical
molecule. But relatively few plants appear to
be able to make use of an ammonium salt ; a
further transformation, therefore, must take
place before it is available. It is at this point
that lime becomes so essential a constituent of
the soil. All well-drained, cultivated soils support
a vast population of bacteria concerned in nitrifying
ammonia. In point of fact, there are two definite
and distinct races, one engaged in oxidising
ammonia into nitrous acid, and the other con-
tinuing the work by oxidising the nitrous into
nitric acid. The function of the lime is to neutralise
the acid immediately it is formed, so that nitrate
of lime accumulates as a direct result. This
nitrate of lime is the chief source of the nitrogenous
food of all garden plants. The progress of nitrifi-
cation thus depends upon a sufficiency of lime
being present in the soil. It follows, therefore,
that, if the supply runs out, the nitrification
stops, as the nitrifying bacteria are checked in
their growth if the acid products of their activity
are not immediately neutralised. Nitrification is
at its best when the soil is fairly moist and warm,
when it is well aerated, and when it contains
a sufficiency of lime. The absence of any one
of these factors will check nitrification.
The particular point I am anxious to drive home
in this connection is this : That the presence of
lime in the soil encourages the activities of all
those races of soil bacteria that are concerned
in the preparation of nitrogenous food for culti-
vated crops. I am convinced that there are a
large number of gardens the soils of which are
heavily charged with rich stores of humus, but
which, owing to the lack of lime, are unable to
unload their treasures. In such cases it is lime,
not additional manure, that is urgently required.
The soil is fat, sluggish and inert, whereas it ought
to be alive, buoyant and active, having its food
reserves rapidly transformed into nitrates for the
nutrition of our crops. Lime, therefore, is the
most active agent in the transport service of the
plant. It carries valuable food up to the absorbing
root-hairs ; but, comparatively speaking, it
rarely enters the plant itself. Supposing it
presents itself in the form of a nitrate. In
the act of absorption the nitrate is decomposed,
the nitric acid is absorbed by the living root,
while the lime is left behind. The now freed
lime instantly makes a fresh combination with
the carbonic acid given off by the breathing root,
and thus again in the form of a carbonate it is
ready to repeat its part in the work of nitrogen
transportation. A certain percentage of lime,
however, enters the plant, as it is needful in the
performance of certain duties in the li\ing tissues
of the plant. One such duty only need here be
mentioned. During the process of growth certain
acids are formed, which, if allowed to accumulate,
would interfere with the health of the tissues.
These acids are neutralised by lime and thrown
out of solution in the sap in the form of crystals.
Some plants are able to excrete their excess of
lime. This is well demonstrated in the case of
" crustaceous " Saxifrages, where the wliite
incrustations that appear along the margins of
the leaves represent compounds of lime carried
out in exuditions of sap which, on evaporation,
leave the solid lime salts behind.
As is well known, certain plants dislike lime,
and their spontaneous appearance in a soil indicate
the absence of lime in that soil. The common
Dock Sorrel (Rumex acetosella), the Foxglove
and Erica cinerea are examples of such plants,
and gardeners are familiar with many others
which under cultivation must be kept free from
lime ; but these cases do not in any way affect
the general question. It is worth noting, however,
that Principal Wright found by direct experiment
in the West of Scotland that the application of
lime to the soil had a distinctly bad effect upon
the yield of Potatoes, and he recommends that
Potatoes should not be planted in ground recently
treated with lime. D. Houston.
Royal College of Science for Ireland.
ACETYLENE GAS GENERATOR
REFUSE
Foe G.1RDEN Crops.
DURING the last few weeks a great
I many readers have written for
I information respecting the use of
' acety.'ene gas refuse, and we there-
fore reprint the following, which
appeared in The Garden for
March, 1909. "The question of the usefulness or
otherwise in gardens of the refuse from tiie
acetylene generator plants is very frequently raised,
' May this refuse be placed upon the land
without injury to crops and with beneficial
effect upon the soil ? ' is mostly asked. Calcium
carbide is made by causing lime and carbon to
combine together in an electric furnace, so tha'.
a compound having the chemical formula CaCj
is formed. When water is brought into contact
with this substance, certain chemical reactions
immediately take place, with the result that
acetylene gas is generated and a white substance
remains mixed and partly dissolved in water.
This is shown by the following chemical equation ;
CaCa + 2 H2O = C2H2 -I- Ca{OH)2
(Calcium carbide) (water) (acetylene) (slaked lime)
The white substance is slaked lime, and if it were
not for the presence of some impurities, derived
mostly from the form of carbon used in the
manufacture of the carbide (that have, of course,
been ignored in the equation), this slaked lime
would not differ in the least from that obtained
when fresh burnt lime is slaked with water.
" On account of the presence of some impurities
in the carbide, however, the refuse is likely to
contain certain compounds of sulphur and lime
(sulphides), and occasionally some phosphide of
lime, a compound of phosphorus and lime. Both
of these compounds are injurious to plant-life,
but the latter is not likely to be present in
sufficient quantities to do any appreciable
damage, and the former soon alter in composition
in the soil and become innocuous. Thus the
refuse may be used with advantage upon soils.
112
THE GARDEN.
[February 28, 11)14.
though it should first be exposed to the action ot
the air for a time before it is allowed to come in
contact with roots. It may be spread on the
soil in the autumn at the rate of about half a
bushel to the square rod, as evenly as possible,
and allowed to lie for a time before it is forked
in. Used in this way it will have the same bene-
ficial effects upon the soil as a dressing of slaked
lime applied in the same way, counteracting
sourness of the soil and mitigating the evils
arising therefrom, and, in the case of clay soils,
causing the minute particles of clay to coagulate
and therefore making the pores in the soil larger
and the soil itself easier to work, more open to
the air and, as a result, more easily warmed by
the sun in the spring. Scientist."
IS THE DAFFODIL A
FLORIST'S FLOWERP
IN his interesting discussion as to whether
the Daffodil ought or ought not to be con-
sidered a " florist's flower " (The Garden
of January 31 and February 7), Mr. Jacob
asks me a number of questions which, with
your permission, I shall do my best to
answer. Why was Mr. Jacob asked to judge the
Daffodils at Barnstaple, and not Tom, Dick or
Harry ? This question is so easy as to be almost
difficult. Why. because Mr. Jacob is Mr. Jacob,
and not any random individual you may chance
to pick up. Tom, Dick and Harry may be
estimable persons in their way, and may even know
a Daffodil from a Dandelion when they see it. I
have nothing against Tom, Dick or Harry, except
that none of the three happens to be Mr. Jacob,
and that, when I have Daffodils to show, I prefer
to submit them to someone whose knowledge of
the flower is above suspicion ; someone who has
seen all that there is to see in the way of Daffodils,
who has grown them and shown them (peradventure
even measured them with a foot rule) and who has
written about them with enthusiasm and distinc-
tion. Mr. Jacob happens to fill the bill.
Again : Should I prefer the head-gardener of
the nearest big place to judge my Daffodils to, say,
Mr. P. D. Williams ? I hesitate to say that there
is any judge in the wide world I should prefer to
Mr. P. D. Williams ; but as concerns the head-
gardener in question, I should have to know more
about him before I suggested that he was not " the
man for Galway." I suppose, as a rule, head-
gardeners have so many claims on their attention
as hardly to allow of their becoming specialists in
a particular flower. My acquaintance with head-
gardeners is not extensive, but I know (or knew)
of one at least to whose judgment I should not
hesitate to submit my Daffodils.
The broadside of queries with which Mr. Jacob
opens the second instalment of his article I can
best answer by conceding the necessity for shows,
which I do very readily ; also the necessity for
recognising "points," if by "points" Mr. Jacob
means certain desirable qualities which we all
recognise when we see them. But such points
must be manifestly desirable, and not arbitrarily
selected by a junta of florists merely because the
qualities in question are difficult to secure. If
judges bar certain colours, combinations of colours,
rays, stripes, pencUlings, blotches and what not,
it must be because these are thought to be
intrinsically ugly and undesirable, and not because
they run counter to certain florist conventions.
Why, for instance, may the edge of a Carnation
petal not be fringed ? A fringed petal is a charm-
ing feature in a Begonia, Pink or Poppy. But
the florist rules it out as improper in the Carnation.
.Again, why, to have a chance with the judge, must
an Auricula have a thrum eye ? There is nothing
disgraceful or inherently ugly in a pin eye. It is
a thing of Nature's designing for a special purpose
of her own ; and, in my experience of the Primula
tribe, she perpetrates a pin eye quite as often as
she achieves a thrum. I myself do not admue
pin eyes ; but that is because I have been badly
brought up (am, in fact, a florist in disguise),
and proves nothing. I daresay there are people
who prefer the pin eye to the thrum, and, if so,
how must these inoffensive amateurs wince at the
indignity put upon their taste by the florist !
Coming back, then, to the Daffodil, there are
accidental features of the flower which please one
and displease another. We may prefer a red eye,
or an eye of another colour ; a perianth segment
like the ace of spades or one of another shape ;
a flower that looks up or a flower that looks down,
or a flower that looks straight ahead. These are
unessential points on which the best judges may
agree to differ. On the other hand, there are
certain things we all desire in the flower — size,
substance, purity and delicacy (or depth) of colour,
massiveness, symmetry, proportion, and so on, to all
of which qualities a competent judge will surely give
their full value, without any Glenny at his elbow.
Finally, may I be permitted to suggest to Mr.
Jacob the reason why he is so equally divided
between "Yes" and "No"? It is, I think,
because he has not determined for himself what
exactly he means by the word " florist." Some-
times he has in his mind the florist of the old school,
now almost, if not quite, extinct, who tolerated
only one or two types of a flower (the Tulip, for
instance), and judged them by rigorous and some-
times by arbitrary standards. Sometimes the
" florist " of Mr. Jacob's vocabulary means
exhibitor, sometimes hybridiser, and sometimes
little more than the skilful grower. I myself am a
florist because I prefer maximus to Santa Maria ;
Mr. Farrer is a florist because he approves of
hybrid Saxifrages ; John Heal was a florist because
he created a new race of Begonias. No doubt, in
various senses such as these we are all florists.
But how many of us are florists in the sense in
which Glenny was a florist ? However, when all
is said, I am glad to believe that any differences
between Mr. Jacob and myself are of the purely
academic kind. As regards the essential points of
Daffodils and Daffodil culture, I do not remember
any on which I do not agree with your distinguished
contributor. Let him not even think that I under-
value the Spanish loveliness of Santa Maria. But,
then, she is so " uncertain, cry, and hard to
please " ! Somerset.
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
Every department, of horticulture is repreacnied in The
Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send, in gueatlons
relatinff to matters upon irhich thry wish expert advice.
The Editor velcomos photixji-aphs. articles and notes,
but he will not he ,■/■!< jtonsih/i' fur their safe return. All
reasonable rare, hoiwrrr. iviU hr lukfu, and u'hrrc stamps are
cndoscdjir inll f)idravviirlo n-(iirn non-iu.reptcd ronirihiifiorts.
As rcijiinix pli'tfiiiii-a)ihs, if /mi/nienl is dcsiird. tlic Etlilo/
asks that the prirr iwipiirrd for rrpradurt ion be phunhj stated
It muat be dislimihi loidnstiuKl thai onhi the artnal photo-
grapher or ij'i'ncr t,j the ropi/rii/hl irill be trealeil /rith.
The Editor ui/i >itit. be responsible fur (he return of artistic
or literary contribiilions ivhii-h hr may not be able to ns,-. mid
the receipt of a proof ;i}u.-uKu'i'^t with
your Lily pond by introducing' >oii amonu the intones.
Here and there the soil should he brous:ht within from
'<', inchcp to 6 inches; of the surface of the water to actonimc-
datc such plants as succeud best where the water is shallow.
\i\ the deeper water you may plant the Kloweriim Rush
(Itutomus umbellatus), double-flowered Arrowhead (Sagit
taria variabilis (lore pleno), variegated Myrlle Grass
(Acorus Calamus varieL'atus). nsirrow-leaved Heed Mace
(Typha angusti folia) and lUchardia africana. Where
the wat'T is shallower, Iris sibirica, I. ia?vitiata, I. Pseud-
acorus, Caltlia i>alustris tlore pleno, C. polypetala. Calla
palustris and the Bop Bean (Menyanthes trLfoliata) may
he grown. The plants should be procured and planted
as soon as possible.
WATER LILIES IN GARDEN PONDS (Colonel IF.).—
ThiT)' is II.) reason why Water Lilies should not thrive
excellently in your pond^. The best way to establish
them would be to drain tlie water away and make mounds
of good loamy soil, kept in position by whole turves and
liricks, on which to plant the Water Lilies. As a rule,
the top of such mounds should be from H feet to 2 feet
below the surface of the water ; a few inches either way.
however, makes little dilference. Plantinc -should take
place at once ; in fact, it is already rathi'r late. The
following are really good kind:^ : Nymphiea ;ilad~toueana,
white ; N. William Falconer, red ; X, ruberosa Ilavesccns,
yellow ; N. Marliacea carnea, pink : N. robinsoniana,
red ; and N. alba candidissima. white. We suggest
that tins number will be sufficient for your requirements,
as they soon form large plants.
THE GREENHOUSE.
LILY OF THE VALLEY FLOWERING WITHOUT
LEAVES (y. /*.).— The (ierman-grown crowns of the Lily
of the Vallev that have been forced hard to get them in
flower early will throw up their blossoms without showing
any foliage. Owing to this, retarded crowns are usually
t-mployed for very early flowering, as they produce leaves
as well as flowers. As the ."reason advances, the German
crowns will push up the leaves and flowers together.
FERNS FOR CONSERVATORY {E. S. i.).— Any ot
the following Ferns will -nil your requirements : Adiantum
aethiopicum, A. Caplllus-\riieris, A. decorum, Asplenium
Inilbiferum, A. (.'oleusoi, Bleclmum Occident alr^, C'yr-
tomium faleatum, Davallia canariense, Lastrea aristata
variegata, Nephrodiura molle corymbiferura, Onyehium
japonicum, Osmunda palustris, Poly podium aureum,
Pteris cretica, P. c. aibolineata, P. c. cristata, P. c. major,
P. c. nobilis, P. internata, P. longifoUa. P. 1. Mariesli,
P. nivalis, P. seaberula, P. serrulata, P. s. cristata, P. s.
gracilis, V. Summersii, P. Wimsettii and Woodwardia
orieutalis.
DIPLACUS GLUTINOSUS {Atherstone). — Generally
speaking, Dlplacus glutinosus should be given much tlie
same treatment as a Fuchsia, except that it should not
be kept so dry during the winter. It is best propagated
by cuttings of the young growing shoots, taken in tlie
spring when they are about a couple of inches in length.
Inserted into pots of sandy soil, and placed in a closi;
propagating-case til! rooted, which will not take long.
A compost" made up of loam, leaf-mould and sand will
suit it well. As soon as your cuttings are rooted, they
should be potted into small pots, giving them a warm
situation in the greenhouse to encourage groirth, and
shifting them on into larger pots when required. They
will flower well in pots from (> inches to 8 inches in
diameter.
TREES AND SHRUBS.
BUDDLEIA COLVILLEI (E. S. i.).— This is of rapid
uTowth, but us a rule it llowers only when it has attained
a fair size. As your plant is in such good condition,
we sliouhl not ad\'ise you to jirune it at all. It is altogether
more tree-like in stature than B. vcitcliiana.
COTONEASTER FOR NAME AND TREATMENT
iJaponica), — iiic specimen sent for identiflcation is
t'otoneaster micropliylla, a native of the Himalaya. It
may be propagated by seeds sown at once in sandy soil
in a warm greenhouse or frame; or cuttings of young
shoots, 3 inches to 4 inches long, may be taken in July
and inserted in pots of sandy soil, or in a bed of sandy
soil, in a close frame. A good compost for cuttings is
made up of two parts loam, one part leaf-mould or peat.
and niie part silver sanrange Boven. — Joseph Jacob.
March 7, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
115
Crocus Sieberi in Essex and Scotland. — I
was rather surprised to see that Crocus Sieberi
was no further forward in an Essex garden the
other day than with me in the south-east of
Kirkcudbrightshire. In ordinary seasons there
should be from a week to a fortnight's difference
between the two. C. Sieberi is one of the best
of the early Crocus species, and ought to be much
more cultivated for its purple flowers. It is now
very cheap, and should be planted in quantity. —
S. Arnott, Maxwelltown, Kirhcudbrighlshire.
Canker in Fruit Trees. — 1 quite agree with
" E. M.," page 78, issue February 14, in his
remarks on the cause of canker in fruit trees.
I have cured very bad cases of canker, mainly
by dealing with the roots. I will only refer to
one case now. A half-standard of Cox's Orange
Pippin was very badly cankered. I was asked
to try to cure it. We took out a trench, cut off
the main roots permeating the cold, clayey subsoil,
and burrowed well under the tree ;. then filled the
trench with lighter loam and plenty of grit. The
canker was so bad at the junction of the head
branches with the main stem that one could see
through the holes. All the cankered part was
cut away and the woimds dressed with undiluted
Fir tree oil. The stems healed, the bark grew
healthily and covered the holes. The tree bore a
heavy crop of handsome fruits the following year,
and did not suffer from canker afterwards. — G. G.
A most interesting article, of great value to
all fruit-growers, appeared on page 56, in the issue
for January 31. Having very much of this
canker to deal with, I can only add that I find
Stockholm tar the best for healing the canker
wounds after cutting out the disease. The canker
is very far-reaching, as in many instances, when
cutting off the diseased shoot, I have to make
a still further cut, as the canker is so plainly seen in
the wood when cut. As a wet season develops
the spread of the disease, and knowing that
on our silty soil the roots run down, I have done
much root-pruning to advantage. I might here
say that I find our underground soil, or, rather,
silt, in a wet year, excessively wet, almost a
running sand — poor indeed for top fruits — yet we
do fairly well by feeding with basic slag, &c.,
avoiding stable manure. There is not the least
doubt the free use of the latter does encourage
the free wood growth, which, being difficult to
ripen, is a ready prey to canker. — Stephen Castle.
— — I have read with interest the remarks
by " Scientist " and " E. M." on this subject.
" Scientist " points out the danger of subject-
ing the trees to attacks by the breaking
of the bark through carelessness in gathering
fruit, pruning and other work. But from experi-
ence in this particular place the larger trees seem
to fare best. Small pjnramids and young trees
that one can gather fruit from and prune without
damaging are attacked much more severely.
If I were to cut out every bit of canker or diseased
patches, certainly I should have many useless
stocks, whatever may be thought of a cankered
tree. It would cause me to begin afresh every year.
I prefer to check if possible, and help Nature
to heal, rather than do too much cutting and
removing. I quite endorse the remarks about
being careful to keep the bark sound, and one
cannot be too careful against insect attacks. A
few years ago a case came under my notice that
is, perhaps, worthy of quoting. A cottager had
a standard Apple tree badly cankered about
four feet from the ground. After removing
thoroughly the diseased bark and decayed wood, he
applied Stockholm tar, and then placed a bandage
around to assist protection. Whatever may
be the experience of applying tar as a remedy,
that particular tree to-day is healthy and fruitful.
I have Ribston Pippin and Cox's Orange Pippin
cankered slightly, while Lord Suffield, Reinette
du Canada and Belle de Pontoise are almost
killed. With regard to " E. M.'s " note, the
soil here corresponds exactly ; but I notice that
certain varieties canker worse on certain stocks.
Longfield (Canadian), a never-failing cropper,
cankers worse on the free stock than on the
Paradise stock. Baldwin seems useless on any
stock in this neighbourhood. North Star on the
free stock does fairly well ; on the Paradise stock
it is almost worthless. — J. J. G., Pemance.
Permit me to record my experience and
conclusions re canker in the Apple tree. " Scientist "
(page 56, issue January 31) and " E. M." (page 78,
issue February 14) have each, from different stand-
points, diagnosed the cause, and suggested the
cure for this common disease. While accepting
in the main " Scientist's " theory, I am disposed,
from my own experience, observation and reading,
to say that " E. M." is on the true lines as to
the origin of this mischievous pest. My know-
ledge of the disease points to the conclusion that
soil has a very considerable influence in inducing
canker. The majority of practical gardeners, while
always grateful to scientists for their research and
discoveries, have to be content to know and act
according to mere elementary principles. Those
principles are discovered in practice. " E. M."
has noticed that certain causes produce certain
effects. Reasoning from effect to cause, he con-
cludes that a water-logged clay soil is apparently a
predisposing cause of canker. I wish to state that
it is my opinion also. Whatever may be true as
to " Scientist's " theory of canker, its cause and
cure, it seems to me that anything in the constitu-
tion or condition of the soil which tends to
lower the vitality of a tree will make it more liable
to develop canker. I have charge of a garden,
closely surrounded by trees on the east, south
and west. The soil is a stiff heavy clay, resting
on an undrained subsoil of blue clay. In certain
parts of this garden, no matter what variety
of Apple I have planted, it eventually suc-
cumbed to the disease in question. As the
healthy, vigorous person is found, as a rule, to
be proof against tubercular troubles, so the robust,
healthy tree is as a rule immune from canker.
The tendency to tubercular affections may be
mainly hereditary, but I am persuaded that the
tendency to canker is to be found chiefly in root
conditions. As the mere presence of fat is not
evidence of robust health in the human being,
so the fact of gross wood is not evidence of vigour
in the case of fruit trees. Too much growth is,
to the experienced eye, in some varieties of Apples
a sure sign of a deficiency, and not of an excess
of health. The lesson seems to be to make the
root conditions right, if it can be done ; but if it
cannot be done — well, expect canker. — George
JonxsTON. Ashfield Lodge, Cootehill.
FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
March 9. — United Horticultural Benefit and
Provident Society's Committee Meeting.
March 10. — Ro5'al Horticultural Society's Bulb
Show (two days).
March 12. — Manchester and North of England
Orchid Society's Meeting.
March 13. — Beckenham Horticultural Society's
Meeting.
DAFFODIL NOTES.
The New Poetaz. — It may be news to some
readers to know that there exists alongside of
the now well-known Poetaz of van der Schoot
(Alsace, Elvira, Aspasia, Jaune k Merveille, Irene
and Sunset, to name the six I think the best)
another set, raised for the most part, if not entirely,
in the village of Limmen by one Albert Vis, a
sort of bulb recluse, at whose death a few years
since they passed into different hands. I believe
the exact knowledge of the cross from which he
got his hybrids died with him, but it is said to
have been a Poet fertilised with pollen of some of
the Tazettas. This, it will be remembered, is
the origin of what I must call, in contradistinction
to these, the older Poetaz. If my facts are correct,
it then becomes a matter of peculiar interest to
raisers to know that the newer ones are of quite
a different type in both habit and inflorescence,
featuring as they do in stem, in height, in truss,
in scent, and in individual flowers the Tazetta
parent in a greater degree than those raised by
van der Schoot at Hillegom. 1 have summered
and wintered four of them for three years, so I
feel I am in a position to pronounce judgment
upon them. My verdict is that they are excellent
as pot plants ; and inasmuch as there are delightful
combinations of colour to be found among them
which are wanting in the older ones, I fancy they
have a great future before them. Distinction, a
fine, large-flowered variety with a pale red cup
and soft yellow, undulating perianth, with a fair
number of blooms to a truss ; and Albert Vis,
which has a big rich orange eye in the centre of
a well-proportioned pure white perianth, and with
a smaller quota of flowers to a stem than is fotmd
in the above-mentioned Distinction, were both to
be found in some retail lists last autunm, so that
I hope someone who has bought them will give
us a note in The Garden as to his experience
with them. I have also grown Orange Blossom
and Orange Cup for the same number of years
as the preceding. The former is a long-stalked
Albert Vis, but in other respects very similar.
The latter is on the lines of Distinction, but the
cup has a real red edge, which is doubled, puckered
and pleated in a way that at the moment I cannot
recall in any other Narcissus or Daffodil.
Thanks to the kindness and courtesy of Messrs.
M. van Waveren and Sons, I have been able to
increase my collection this spring, and I am now
busy making the acquaintance of some of the
others of this new race. Of these I will write
in my next notes, when all the different varieties
have flowered. Visitors to the " Midland " last
year will remember a collection of them from
Mr. H. Prins of Lisse, but they were so badly set
up and so out of condition that they did not do
themselves justice. Moreover, they had been
grown in the open, I expect, and they are not
at their best then.
Daffodils in New Zealand. — Of course, one has
known what a voracious appetite these two islands
have had for years for new varieties, and that
lately the pangs of hunger have been partly assuaged
by home-grown food ; but since the publication
of the Daffodil Year Book I have become aware
that I under-estimated both the one and the other.
I am hoping to include two or three articles upon
what is going on " down there " in the ign
edition. The following extract from an article
in one of the New Zealand papers by a very keen
and successful amateur, Mrs. Maclean of Oamaru,
who visited three of the chief shows last spring
116
THE Gx\RDEN.
[March 7, 1Q14.
(that is, last September and October), wUl be
ni interest, and, I hope, will not unduly depress
ray •' Sic transit gloria mundi " friend at Rye.
.Aiter dealing in detail with each show, she thus
ends : " Comparing the three shows, there is not
the slightest doubt but Oamaru leads so far as
excellence of cultivation is concerned. Naturally,
a much larger number of the latest and most
expensive varieties are shown in Dunedin and
Christchurch, and these, of course, take the eye ;
but where the same variety is groivn and shown
at each show the Oamaru flower is the best, and
any exhibitor who can secure honours at Oamaru
need not have any fear of competing with every
prospect of success at either of the other shows.
Locally, the season seems to have suited Harris
and incomparabilises with red in the cup, as was
evidenced by the many flowers of these divisions
which were exhibited here (Oamaru) in perfect
condition. New Zealand seedlings compare more
than favourably with imported flowers so far as
size is concerned, and when colour and form of
took place fiftj'-eight years ago, I feel it is unlikely
that anvone is li\ang who can enlighten us.
Daffodils from Sweden. — Has anyone in England
done what I have done this last month — had
Daffodils in their greenhouse that had been grown
last year in Sweden ? Hearing that a philan-
thropic lady there — the Lady Sigrid Stjernsward —
had started a Daffodil farm at Widtskofle in
Scania some four or five years since, I wrote
for some bulbs, and before long a couple of packages
arrived by parcel post, which contained samples of
some of the better-known varieties in commerce.
Part I potted up and grew them alongside of my
others ; part I planted in the garden. All of the
former have now bloomed, and they have been
carefully compared with the same varieties from
other sources. Mrs. Langtry, Barri conspicuus
and princeps were decidedly weak in growth
and bore few flowers ; whereas Empress, Sir
Watkin, ornatus. Golden Spur and Queen Bess
were all very good, and quite up to either
English or Dutch grown bulbs ; in fact, in the
A PAX OF SAXIFRAGA BURSERIANA WITH OVER THREE HUNDRED BLOOMS.
an equal standard are produced here, there will
not be any doubt as to which are the better flowers,
but at present the home-grown ones are ahead
in these qualities, and, after all, perfect form and
colour are superior to size."
A Prehistoric Exhibit. — From March, 1851,
to March, 1859, there existed an influential society
called " The National Floricultural Society."
Quoting from the "Address" in Vol. L, Part 1.,
it was formed to supply the want of a " tribunal
to test new Florists' flowers and hybrids." On
looking over its Transactions, I found, under
the date of April 24, 1856, this entry :
■• The following were the subjects of exhibition :
" Azalea from Mr. E. A. Hamp.
" Auriculas from Mr. C. Turner.
" Narcissi from Mr. Leeds," &c.
Unfortunately for us, these seedlings received
no award, or otherwise we would have had their
names and descriptions, and as this exhibition
case of Queen Bess, superior. Fi\'e bulbs bore
ten fine blooms — better I have never seen. All
the above flowered at the same time as Dutch-
grown bulbs, Joseph Jacob.
A MAGNIFICENT PLANT OF
SAXIFRAGA BURSERIANA.
A GOOD deal of interest was centred around a
remarkably well-grown pan of Saxifraga burseriana
which gained a cultural commendation at the last
meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society. Over
three hundred blooms were crowded together
in a profuse mass, almost covering up the dense
rosettes of foliage. It was shown and grown by
Mr. F. Lloyd of Croydon, who for some .years
has grown alpine plants, notably Saxifrages,
with marked success. The magnificent specimen
which we illustrate above reflected great credit
upon the cultivator, and well deserved the cultural
commendation bestowed upon it.
SEASONABLE WORK
AMONG THE ROSES.
IT is not too late to plant Roses if a little
extra care is taken. I have often had
even better results from spring planting
than when done during the midwinter
months. One of the chief points is to have
everything ready, and so avoid any un-
necessary exposure of the roots, which, in many
cases, will be more or less active and easily
aft'ected by a drying wind or sun. Pruning will
be dealt with fully in a week or two, but I may
say it is better in all cases to prune newly planted
Roses down close, and, this being the case, you
will have little, if any, wood exposed to drying"
influences, which will be a great help to the more
uniform advance of both roots and top growth.
Avoid getting upon freshlymoved groundifitiswet.
Use a few boards if it must be done, but it is far
better to delay the work for a few days. .As a further
help in not treading until the soil has
become dry and more settled, I would
prune before planting in spring. .\t
the same time, the soil should bi-
fairly firm around the roots and base
of the plants. Should you be planting
standards, do not fail to afford some
efficient support at once. They must
have it the first year, and it is a pitv
to allow them to sway at all, which
cannot but do harm to and strain
the newly forming roots.
As one looks over his Roses at this
pruning-time a few blanks will prob-
ably be found in the beds and borders^
Too often one does not take enough
care in replacing these. Let a better
preparation be made by moving more
soil and making a slightly larger hole.
The slight injury to its neighbour's
roots will not matter, and it will be
a better start for the new-comer.
When pruning pegged-down Roses,
do not miss the opportmiity to feed
by mulching and top cultivation of
the soil before laying the young wood
down again. You will not have
such a good chance again during the
whole season. Mulching generally
may be done after pruning, and
will still be in ample time to
feed the roots at the period thev
most need it. A properly mulched Rose bed or
border in which the trees have been pruned has a
pleasing and promising look, while it needs no
more attention for a considerable time. I may say
that Roses are by no means so particular as many
other subjects about the class of manure they
receive, but the best and its application has been
frequently treated of in these pages. I only hint
that now is a most seasonable time to use this.
Under glass our plants should be in full growth,,
and will need free waterings of weak liquid manures.
I am firmly convinced that many checks to growth
and other partial failures are caused by the use of
overstrong liquids. It is far better to spread the
same amount of stimulant over double the
number of applications than run the risk of injury
to the tips of healthy growing roots. But it is one
of the most common errors. Simply because thi-
plant is doing well it does not want a strong ditsi-
of liquid manure to maintain its vigour ; murli
better feed steadily and more often.
March 7, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
117
Insects, too, will probably be more trouble
as the season advances. Here, also, too severe
measures, with an idea of immediate eiiect, are
altogether wrong, and not infrequently do as
much, or more, harm than the enemy itself. Use
weaker solutions and be more persistent in your
washings, and you will have better results combined
with safety.
The need for ventilation should be avoided
as far as possible by a careful regulation of fire-
heat, and I am sure much ventilation might be
made unnecessary if a little more thought was
used in this direction. Mildew is sure to trouble
you if you vary the temperature much and allow
the slightest draught. Much benefit has been
found here by dissoh'ing a little extra flowers of
sulphur in the washes generally used. If the
solution is kept well on the move, as it should be,
you will find a very light and unsightly dusting of
sulphur left both above and below the foliage.
This is not only harmless, but is a
good preventive, and need not be
used except to leave the faintest
dusting of sulphur upon the foliage.
Sussex. ' A. P.
SEASONABLE NOTES ON
AURICULAS.
WITH the arrival of March some
of the early varieties show
signs of flowering, and it is
essential that sufficient pro-
tection be given to keep out
frost. The grower must study
the weather, and not be taken off his guard by
bright, sunny days, because these are often
followed by several degrees of frost at night.
Some cultivators remove the plants that are
pushing up their spikes into a cool, low house ;
but even a small quantity of fire-heat will sometimes
draw the plants and the scapes, which render
them very unsatisfactory from a decorative stand-
point. Before the first flowers open 1 always like
to vaporise the frame to kill any green fly that
and are considered by some to be more easily
grown than the show varieties.
The Fancy Auricula. — Seedlings which cannot
be arranged in either of the show classes previously
mentioned, but at the same time possess certain
good qualities which make them worth growing,,
are referred to as fancy Auriculas.
Exhibitions. — Next month I shall give a;
few details on preparing the plants for show.
In the meantime a schedule should be prociured,
the classes selected and the plants watched, so
that they are in full beauty on the day required.
If they are coming on too fast, a north position
should be chosen, and the lights removed whenever
the weather is mild and dry. T. W. Briscoe.
MAGNOLIA STELLATA.
To Magnolia stellata belongs the distinction ot
being the first Magnolia to open its flowers. It
THE JAPANESE
MAPLES.
The various forms of Japanese
Maples, or Acers, are always popular
in gardens by reason of their dainty,
elegant leafage and brilliant colour-
ing. Even in cold districts, where
they are not a success out of doors,
people often grow them in pots or
tubs to stand in a conservatory or
greenhouse during spring, for their
prettily tinted leaves at that period
make them invaluable for grouping
with forced shrubs, bulbs and
other plants. Then, towards May
they are stood out of doors, to be
placed in the conservatory again
in autumn for the few weeks
during which their leaves are gay
with brilliant autumn tints. The
palmatum group is divided into
several sections, according to the
lobing of the leaves. The
septemlobum section may be recog-
nised by reason of its leaves
being considerably larger than those of others
in the group. They may be as much as 5 inches
long, exclusive of the stalk, and 4 inches wide.
The number of lobes into which the leav;s are
divided varies, but is usually from seven to eleven,
and they are divided almost to the base. Each
lobe is agaui prettily cut. The colour of the
leaves varies on different plants almost as much
as the lobing, and for this reason distinctive
names have been given to the various forms,
such as atropurpureum, bicolor, elegans, and
elegans purpureum. In spring the colour varies
from bright bronze to greenish bronze or pale
green, and in autumn from orange scarlet to
scarlet and deep red. In the South and parts
of the Midlands the Japanese Maples thrive
satisfactorily in a sheltered part of the garden,
but in many parts of the North they are not
recommended for outdoor work. In West Lanca-
shire good specimens are sometimes seen in the
open. D.
THE FIRST MAGNOLIA TO BLOOM (M. STELLATA).
may be on the plants. The operation is not required
again till the flowering season is over.
Types of the Auricula. — There are two distinct
sections of Auricula — the garden kinds, derived
from Primula Auricula, and the alpine varieties,
from P. pubescens. The latter group contains
some of the most beautiful tints and shades,
while the former are often covered with a delicate
meal or farina. These are known as show Auriculas
and are divided into four sections, viz., green
edge, grey edge, white edge, and sells. The first
three are very beautiful, but I am afraid they
are not grown to the extent that their merits
deserve. The selfs are a' class where the colour
extends from the paste to the edge of the petal,
and are, in consequence, very attractive, while
in some instances the foliage is densely coated
with farina. Although the selfs are largely grown,
the premier place in regard to popularity must
be awarded to the alpines, which are devoid of all
meal or farina either on the leaves or flowers.
is a deciduous species, and the blooms open before
the leaves unfold. Sometimes the flowers suffer
for this earliness in being cut down by spring frosts.
In a mild spring, however, there is no shrub more
beautiful, for on a bright, simny day the fragrant
flowers light up the surrounding landscape with
telling effect. It is a native of Japan, and is
often cultivated in this country under its old name,
M. halleana. Like other Magnolias, it is a little
fastidious about soil and situation, showing a
marked preference for a light, loamy soil of an
open nature and a warm position sheltered from
strong winds. It should be borne in mind that
Magnolias resent disturbance at the root more,
perhaps, than any other class of plants. Whea
transplanting has to be accomplished, it is best
done in the spring, immediately after flowering
and as new growth commences. The fine fibrous
roots require very careful handling, while, after
planting, the shrubs should be sheltered under
mats and freely s^tinged if the weather is dry.
118
THE GARDEN.
[March 7, 1914.
STOCK BEAUTY OF NICE.
Ol' all the gorgeous array of annuals,
L few can equal the Stock, and of
I its many varieties Beauty of Nice
' must, I think, be awarded first
place. This variety can be had
in bloom at almost any season of
the year, and where a large quantity of cut flowers
is required, it is invaluable, as it blooms in about
three mouths from the date of sowing, lasts excep-
tioually well in water and, above all, has a perfume
with which few other flowers can compare. I
find it most useful under glass for
giving cut blooms in early summer,
when the bulbs and spring flowers
are all over and the summer
flowers not yet in bloom. In this
cold climate I sow about the
middle of February to have the
blooms ready about the end of
May, but those who are situated
in a warmer spot would do better
to defer sowing until the end of
the month.
Its cultivation is very simple,
and I have adopted the following
method with great success. Sow
the seed thinly in pans of very
sandy soil, just covering the seed
ivith a sprinkling of sand, and
place the pans in slight bottom-
lieat until germination takes placi .
wliich will be in about eight or
ten d^ys. When the young seed-
lings appear, stand the pans on :i
shelf near the glass in a cool house
and grow on steadily, taking care
not to weaken the young plants
by forcing. As soon as they are
ready, prick them off three into
a 3-inch pot, using a light, rich
compost. Care should be taken
not to discard the weaker seedlings,
as tliese invariably produce the
double flowers. As soon as the
young roots come to the sides of
the small pots, repot into 5-incli
or 6-inch ones, the latter prefer-
ably, in which they will flower. A
compost consisting of two parts
good fibrous loam, half a part
each of leaf-mould and well
rotted manure, and sufficient sharp
sand to keep it porous, will be
found most suitable for the final
potting. If any bone-meal is
at hand, a sprinkling of this
can be added, with only the best
results. When the flower - buds
appear, frequent doses of liquid
manure are necessary to produce large spikes,
and a rich top-dressing well repays any time and
trouble spent in applying it. To produce the best
results, a cool but steady temperature is necessary,
hard forcing at any period being highly detrimental
to the production of good spikes.
One word of warning when buying the seed :
Go to a reliable firm and be prepared to pay a
reasonable price for it, as only the best strains
will yield a high proportion of double flowers.
I personally like the pink variety best ; but seed
can also be had of yellow, white and mauve, and
is simply a matter of taste. I am sure that anyone
who buys a packet of good seed and gives the plants
a fair chance will be rewarded with a quantity of
the sweetest blooms, which in beauty of form and
fragrance are unsurpassed by any other annual.
Troon. Ayrshire. An .Amateur.
SOME BEAUTIFUL ANNUAL
FLOWERS.
COOL GREENHOUSE
Erica melaxthera.
HEATH.
This is beyond doubt one of the most profusely
flowered of all greenhouse Heaths. The flowers
are usually white or tinged with pink, but the
distinguishing feature is seen in the prominent
black anthers seated in the centre of each tinv
ERICA MELANTHERA.
EASILY GROWN HEATH
GREENHOUSE.
flower, a peculiarity which has earned for tliis
Erica the title of the Black-anthered Heath.
The flowering season is from autumn till spring,
and in the depth of winter pot plants, compact
in growth and smothered in bloom, are sent in
thousands to our leading flower markets, this
being certain proof of the popularitj' of E. melan-
thera, if such were needed. The chief point to
observe in its cultivation is that it resents a warm
temperature. A cool greenhouse will suit its
requirements throughout the flowering season,
while in the summer-time the plants should be
placed in unheated frames from which the lights
are raised or removed on all favourable occasions.
THE NEMESIAS.
THE time for deciding what is to fill
our beds and borders in the summer
is now at hand once more, and I
should like to advise amateurs to give
Nemesias a trial. There are, I am
sorry to say, only too many who have
never had the pleasure of growing these lovely
aimuals, and I am sure the only reason that can
be given is that they do not know
what Nemesias are capable of
doing. For making a brilliant dis-
play I know of nothing to surpass
them, and the flowering season
extends over a much longer period
than that of the majority of flowers.
Being half-hardy annuals, they re-
quire a little heat to assist germina-
tion if sown early in the year, but
this is not essential if sown later on.
Their cultivation is simple, and
I have always fotmd the following
treatment very successftJ : About
the middle of March take some
well-crocked pans and fill to within
an inch of the rims with a light
compost containing a good per-
centage of old leaf-mould. Over
the surface sprinkle a layer of ver\-
fine soU, and on this sow the seed
very thinly. Just cover over with
fine soil or sand and place in gentle
heat. Cover each pan with a sheet
of glass and keep well shaded until
germination has taken place, when
the young seedlings must be gradu-
ally exposed to the light and air.
Great care must be exercised in
watering, as negligence in this
respect will cause the seedlings to
damp off wholesale. As soon as
ready, prick them off into boxes
about two inches apart each way,
using a slightly stiffer compost
than before. Place over the crocks
a good layer of very old manure
to keep the young plants well
nourished until they are planted
out. Grow them on in gentle heat
until they have made nice little
specimens, when they must be
gradually inured to a cool tem-
perature, as this is necessary to
keep them robust and strong.
.About the end of April they can
be safely transfeiTcd to cold
frames which have been filled
to within a few inches of the glass with good soil
enriched with leaf-mould. The latter half of May
is the best time to plant them out in their flowering
quarters, and the beds must be well enriched
with a liberal dressing of manure. They should
be well dug and the manure thoroughly mixed
mth the soil some time before planting out, so
that they may have had plenty of time to settle
down to their normal level.
Those who wish to give these annuals a trial,
but have not a heated greenhouse at their disposal,
can raise a fine batch of plants by sowing the seed
in cold frames about the middle of April. Keep
close and well shaded until the young seedlings
FOR THE COOL
March 7, 1914.
THE GARDEN.
119
appear, when they must be given a little air to
keep them sturdy. The after-treatment is the
same as previously described, and watering must
be done with great care. If a spell of frost should
■come, throw some mats over the frames, and these
will keep all safe. These plants will not, of course,
flower quite so early as those raised in heat earlier
in the year, but when the flowers do come they
■will be every bit as good. When the young plants
are well established in their flowering quarters,
give weak doses of liquid manure, and, should
the weather be very dry, a mulch of old manure
"will be found beneficial, and will considerably
prolong the season of flowering.
Most people prefer the mixed colours, chiefly,
I think, because the shades are so numerous and
varied and all blend so well together. There
are, however, blue, orange, white, and crimson
varieties which come true to colour from seed,
and all are very beautififl, especially the blue,
which is a lovely pure shade. A good strain of
■seed is essential, so when buying it go to a good,
reliable firm and be prepared to pay
a reasonable price for it. Amateurs
would do well to try these lovely
annuals, and I am sure they will be
delighted with the glorious display of
colour which a mass of Nemesias
produces.
Ayrshire. G. B.
brick red flowers. I had this plant growing
lu.\uriantly in the open border, but, as it has
died, I think that it must be only half-hardy.
Cultivation : Should be grown in a cold house in
good loamy soil in full sun.
P. nessensis (G. Forrest). — Introduced in igii
by Messrs. Bees from seed collected by Mr. Forrest.
It has pretty flowers of cherry pink in moderate-
sized heads. It comes from Yunnan, and belongs
to the Denticulata section. This is the plant
which is being sent out by Bees, Limited, under
the name of Primula farinosa Beesii. Cultivation :
Treatment similar to P. farinosa.
P. pinnatifida (Franch.), a beautiful little plant
with blue flowers, has not proved hardy with
me in the open, but in a cold house it should be
satisfactory. It belongs to the Muscaroides
section.
P. Poissonii (Franch.), of the Candelabra
section, has been in cultivation since 1890, intro-
duced by the Jardin des Plantes, Paris. It
resembles P. angustidens in many ways, but has
P. pulverulenta (Duthie), — Introduced from
West Szcchwan by Messrs. Veitch in 1908, this
Candelabra Primula has become a general favourite.
It is a plant for every garden, and grows from
2 feet to 3 feet high in rich, moist soil. It has
crimson-purple flowers in whorls. It seeds freely,
but the lovely white variety Mrs. Berkeley fails
to do so with me (see page 42, issue January 24).
Cultivation : Good rich garden soil in half shade.
The illustration represents a fine colony of this
beautiful variety in Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons'
Coombe Wood Nursery, and is from a photograph
by Mr. R. A. Malby.
P. pycnoloba (Bur. et Franch.). — The sole
kno'wn member of the section Pycnoloba. This
species has a cluster of flowers, with a long, creamy,
membranous, wide-mouthed horn, filled at the
mouth by the small, dark red corolla. It has
hairy leaves, with petioles, and is hardy if it is
protected by a sheet of glass from winter moisture.
Collected by Mr. Wilson in Central Szechwan
and introduced by Messrs. Veitch in 1906.
HARDY CHINESE
PRIMULAS.
■f^
{Continued from page 108.)
P. helodoxa (Balf. fils). — This
promises to be a most valuable plant.
It belongs to the Candelabras, and has
all the good qualities of P. Bulleyana.
It is of strong growth and bears hand-
some scapes of whorls of dark yellow-
flowers in many tiers. It was collected
for Mr. J. C. Wilson, Caerhays Castle,
in 1912 by Mr. Forrest. It requires
the same treatment as P. Bulleyana.
P. Knuthiana (Pax). — This has
but recently come into cultivation.
The flowers are lilac or lilac mauve.
It resembles P. frondosa, but is more
diflicult to grow. It belongs to the
Sertulium section.
P. Littoniana (G. Forrest).— This
most distinct member of the Mus-
caroides section does well with me in pure
pulverised loam in a well-drained, shady position.
If a piece of glass is placed over it during
the winter, it will prove perennial. Unless
pollinated it does not seed here, but if that
is done it seeds freely. A most handsome and
striking plant, with its long spikes of flowers,
sometimes 6 inches long, with scarlet bracts and
lavender or rose lavender flowers. Collected by
Mr. Forrest in the Tali region and introduced in
1908 by Messrs. Bees, Limited.
P. Maximowiczii (Regel). — A strong-growing,
fragrant species collected in North China by
Mr. Wilson and introduced into cultivation by
Messrs. Veitch in 1906. The leaves are distinctly
petiolate, from 3 centimetres to 5 centimetres
long, narrowly elliptical, acute and dentictJate.
The scape is from 20 centimetres to 40 centimetres
in height, and bears in May a many-flowered
umbel of small, dark purple or, in some cases,
A BEAUTIFUL GROUP OF PRIMULA PULVERULENTA MRS. R, V. BERKELEY.
shorter and broader leaves, and the flowers,
which are fewer in number, are larger and of a
deeper purple. P. Poissonii has not proved
hardy with me, but it is so in some parts of
England and Ireland. Cultivation : Good rich
soil in damp situation. Half shade.
P. pulchella (Franch.), of the Nivalis section,
with blue or purple flowers, is very beautiful,
and seems to be fairly hardy. It is not yet in
the hands of the public.
P. pulchelloides (E. K. Ward) belongs also
to the Nivalis section. The leaves and stems
are covered with yellow farina. The slender
flower-scape rises well above the leaves and carries
at its summit a number of pale lilac flowers.
Both P. pulchella and P. pulchelloides owe their
introduction to Messrs. Bees in igrr. Cultivation :
Ihave no experience of this in the open, but in
pots in a cold house it does well as a pot plant
in well-drained grittv soil.
P. septemloba (Franch.). — Introduced in 1906
by Messrs. Bees, Limited, from seed sent by
Mr. Forrest. The leaves are lobed like a Geranium,
as are all the member^ of the section Geranoides,
to which this species belongs. In most of its
characteristics it resembles P. Gaguepainii, but
with me it has not proved hardy in the open.
P. sibirica will be dealt with under Himalayan
species.
P. Sinolisteri (Balf. fils). — An interesting micro-
form of P. obconica, sent out as P. Listeri, but
not that species which is Himalayan. It is barely
hardy with me, but should be so in the South.
The reniform, orbicular leaves have not the
irritant hairs of P. obcordca. There are two
forms, one white flowered, the other pink. P.
sinolisteri is very free-flowering. Cultivation :
Should be treated in the same way as P. obconica.
P. Veitchii. — One of the hardiest of all garden
Primulas, P. Veitchii came from West Szechwan
120
THE GARDEN.
[March 7. 1914.
in 1906, and was introduced by Messrs. Veitch
through their collector, Mr. Wilson. It grows well in
ordinary soil, and gives an abundance of magenta
flowers on stems i8 inches or so high. It belongs to
the Cortusoides section and has handsome leaves.
P. vittata (Bur. et Franch.). — I think the true
P. vittata {with which may be discussed P. secundi-
flora as closely resembling it) will only prove
half-hardy. P. vittata was introduced in 1905
by Messrs. Veitch from seeds sent by Mr. Wilson.
It has elongated, erect leaves and drooping pink-
purple flowers, with a white mealy band to the
calyx. It is rare in cultivation, and wliat we
see in gardens masquerading under
the name is P. angustidens, a plant
which it in no way resembles. P.
secundiflora was collected by Jlr.
Forrest and introduced by Messrs.
Bees in 1908. It has oblong-elliptic
leaves, horizontal in a rosette. P.
secundiflora does well with me in
a cold frame, but whether It is
hardy during the winter in cold
districts I am not prepared to say.
JOH.\ MaCW'ATT.
Morelands, Duns.
naturally of a drier character, with a well-drained
subsoil, special beds are not at all necessary ;
the plants can be equally well grown in rows
2 feet apart, thus requiring no allev space.
The Best Plants. — The common practice of
forming beds of Asparagus is to purchase two
year old plants from the open groimd, carefully
putting them out in April. A much better plan
is to sow two seeds in a 3-inch pot in sandy soil
during the first week in April. Stand the pots in
a cold frame, shading them from bright sun and
keeping the frame close to hasten germination.
Directly the plants appear above the soil, remove
THE CULTIVATION
OF ASPARAGUS.
THIS is one of the most
important vegetables,
and one that does not
receive as much atten-
tion as its merits de-
serve. In some gardens
the same roots will last in a satis-
factory condition for twenty years
without renewal, while in other
parts the beds require making
often. The most suitable soil is
a deep, friable loam with a porous
subsoil, as this does not require
much preparation. Deeply dug
and well manured, it will last for
years in good condition if yearly
attention is given to the addition of
suitable manurial stimulant. The
soil which requires the most pre-
paration is that which is naturally
heavy in character, some 18 inches
or 2 feet deep below which is a
hard pan of clay-like matter almost
impervious to water. If this is
not broken up to a considerable
depth to allow water to pass away
quickly, the succulent Asparagus
roots suffer a check, and imder
such conditions cannot grow vigor-
ously, as they should to produce
heads of the desired quality.
Treatment of Poor Soil.— The best method
of bringing such soil into a suitable condition
would be to remove some of this hard pan of
subsoil, replacing it with lightening material
when trenching is proceeding, and this should
be done at least 3 feet deep, or, all the better,
4 feet, replacing the soil in the same position as it
was found. The bottom spit or base should be
broken up a foot deep.
The Size and Shape of Beds. — In unsuitable
soil it is best to form beds 4 feet wide, keeping
them a foot above the ordinary gromid-level
to ensure effective drainage. Where the soil is
When to Plant. — The first week in April, when
the plants are on the move, put them out in rows
with a trowel, covering the crowns 2 inches with
a compost of old potting soil, decayed leaves and
wood-ashes to encourage quick growth, .\llow
a space of 15 inches between the plants, which will
provide ample room for development. Should
the weather set in dry, keep the surface soil freely
stirred to conserve the moisture. As the growth pro-
gresses support the " grass " if it is liable to be bent
or broken by strong wind. The second year will see
much progress, and every encouragement should be
given to induce growth. Liquid manure applied
freely will have considerable in-
fluence on the subsequent progress
of the plants, and frequent stirring
of the soil will also assist in that
direction. E. M.
NEW AND RARE
PLANTS.
AWARDS OF MERIT.
Sparaxis King George V. — -A
brilliantly flowered sort of robust
habit that should prove popular
with all. In point of brilliancy it
is akin to Fire King, which gained
an award of merit in Jtme, 1902.
The new-comer, indeed, may well
be described as a vigorous variety
of that kind, and as such it will
be welcome. The dominant colour
of the petals is crimson-scarlet,
richer scarlet near the tips, the
whole in striking contrast with the
deep golden colour of the tube of
the flower. Shown by Messrs. Barr
and Sons. Covent Garden, W.C.
Freesia Excelsior. — A novelty
of the first water ; a plant possess-
ing the vigorous growth of a Mont-
bretia. For the sake of comparison
we might refer it to a glorified
F. Leichtlinii. The handsome,
erect flowers, of remarkable sub-
stance, are coloured a rich cream,
with faint touches of orange on one
side of the tube. Vigour, substance
of flower and marked fragrance are
among the best attributes of F.
Excelsior, which came from Messrs.
Suttciu and. Sons, Reading.
ODONTOGLOSSUM COLOSSUS, A BEAUTIFUL NEW VARIETY WITH VERY
LARGE AND HEAVILY MOTTLED FLOWERS. (Much reduced.)
the shading, gradually giving air to induce sturdy
growth. When it can safely be determined which
is the strongest plant, remove the weaker, as one
in each pot is sufficient, and eventually remove
the frame-light altogether. When the plants are
a few inches high, plunge the pots in ashes
at the foot of a north or west wall, which will
keep the roots cool during the summer and lessen
the necessity for applying water, though any
neglect in this respect will prevent that steady
growth which is so desirable. Here the plants may
remain until the following April, gradually reducing
the water supply as the " grass" ripens off.
NEW ORCHIDS.
Foremost among new Orchids is
the immense Odontoglossum Colos-
sus, with heavily blotched chocolate
flowers from 4! inches to 5 inches
across. This is one of the largest, if
not the largest Odontoglossum yet
raised; the petals are \\ inches
broad, with white frilled margins. The plant carried
four blooms. Its parentage is unknown. Shown by
Baron Bruno Schroder and awarded a first-class cei-
tificate. A similar award was granted to Cymbidiuni
Alexander! Hamilton Smith's variety, having neat
ivory white flowers with a scarlet crimson Up. Shown
by Mr. Hamilton Smith, Finchley. Awards of merit
were granted to Cypripedium Mogul and the golden
orange La;lio-Cattleya .Ariel, both shown by Lieut. -
Colonel Sir George Holford ; and to PhaUcnopsis
Ariadne, shown by Messrs. Sander and Sons.
The foregoing awards were made by the Royal
Horticultural Society on February 24.
\
March 7, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
121
GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.
SOME EASILY GROWN WALL PLANTS.
THE title of the text here chosen carries
witli it more than a suggestion that
not all the plants which from time
to time may be found upon walls
are alike easily grown or established.
To some extent the deduction would
be true, though not absolutely. Given the right
kind of wall and a selection of plants to suit its
special requirements, quite a large number of
the subjects planted would eventually become a
complete success. Quite naturally, of course,
there is considerable diversity among the plants
themselves — the slow growing and the quick,
for example — though we must not allow such
differences to create a wrong impression in our
minds, since the minute-growing alpine may
require neither more nor less care than a plant
such as the Aubrietia, which is of much freer
growth. The real difference is one of inches
against yards ; and those of the latter set, catching
the eye by reason of the superabundance of their
growth, appeal rather to the imthinking as the
more easily grown. At the same time, if we
view the matter closely, such exuberance will
Vie found to be nothing more than the limitations
of the plant's development, that phase of it in
particular with which the subject has been endowed
by Nature. Such growth is on all fours witli
the giant and the dwarf, the Tom Thumb Snap-
dragon, for example, taking as long to reach the
flowering stage as its taller relative 3 feet or
4 feet high. Why it should be so is not quite
clear. But this we know ; that such things occur
abundantly in both the animal and the vegetable
kingdom, those of the latter affording the gardener
greater opportunities for embellishing phases of
gardening that otherwise would perforce have
had to remain unadorned for all time. In no
department of gardening is this more true than
wall gardening, the vigorous and free-growing
I subjects one has now in mind providing material
[• for ornamenting the roughest walls or embellishing
[ as with Nature's hand old ruins or rocky places
' wherever they occur.
To what extent such places may be ornamented
may be gathered from the white Arabis on the
roadside wall in the accompanying illustration,
and though certainly one of the freest, is also one
« of the easiest plants to increase. Every scrap of it
■ getting into touch with damp soil will root, and
in a couple of years form sheets of trailing greenery,
for a long time in spring and early summer
k- beautified by miniature Stock-like spikes of
F almost snowy whiteness. It is a plant for the
roughest of rocky places or rudest walls, dwarfed,
it may be, where the soil is scanty or poor, yet
always flowering abundantly, and perhaps all the
more prodigally owing to this. The best way of
introducing so free-growing a subject is by means
of freshly rooted cuttings as the wall is built,
arranging them high up the wall so that the
draping habit of the plant may receive fair play.
Similarly rooted cuttings may be introduced at
other times, though preferably in autumn or early
spring, so as to ensure a firm roothold before the
drought of summer arrives. A particularly good
subject, far too rarely seen on rough walls, is
Gorydalis lutea, whose elegant, Fern-like habit
of growth and myriads of yellow ilowers should
commend it to all. The plant is most profuse in
flowering, is apparently at home in the smallest
cranny or crevice, and grows and flowers apace.
It is almost impossible to root cuttings of it, and
seeds, which are not always plentifully produced, are
the best means Of introducing it. Another excellent
free-growing subject best introduced by means of
seeds is Saponaria ocymoides, which forms trailing
masses of growths 3 feet or 4 feet long, smothered
in their season with rose or pink flowers. The
white form, alba, and splendens, with flowers more
richly coloured than the type, both merit attention
because of their free growth and flowering.
The Aubrietias. — These as a class are unequalled,
whether for freedom of growth or flowering, hardi-
hood or reliability ; hence are good enough for all.
So good, indeed, are they that one might be
pardoned for suggesting an Aubrietia wall, than
named. There is also a value in Wallflower,
Snapdragon, the Red Valerian (which gives
brilliant sheets of colour on chalk cliffs), Dianthus
deltoides and many more. Poppies and Thrift
have a charm of their own, and so, too, has
Zauschneria californica, which, coming late, is
capable of brilliant effect. Nor can one overlook
The Great Value ol Silver-leaved Plants,
which, apart from their own intrinsic merit,
perform, when rightly placed, an even greater
service to other plants around. This is particularly
true when arranged in near proximity to green-
leaved plants, which they mirror into greater life
by reason of the contrast they afford. Moreover,
the silvery whiteness of these plants is enhanced
by the drier conditions of soil and the proximity
of stone. Achillea umbellata, A. Clavennas.
Senecio incanus, S. argenteus and Sempervivum
WHITE ARABIS OR ROCK CRESS GROWING ON A ROADSIDE WALL.
which, in its day, nothing could present a greater
feast of colour. How the plants thrive in the
smallest wall crevice is proverbial, so that, with a
little encouragement, much might he expected of
them. And they never fail. Moreover, they are
free seeders, and are easily multiplied by seeds,
division or cuttings ; hence the supply is practically
unlimited. To entirely mantle a wall with
Aubrietias, it should be planted at more than one
level to give effect to the object in view. Such a wall
would be best if the face of it is rugged. All the
same, the Aubrietias are good in isolated tufts, and
gladden the eye by their rich or effective colour
masses. Dr. Mules (richest violet). Lavender (a
most delightful shade) and Fire King are all good,
while the older forms of deltoidea are still as
serviceable as of yore.
Iberis sempervirens is also a fine trailing plant,
with white flowers, and perfectly hardy and
enduring. Then one cannot omit such as Cam-
panula muralis, C. pusilla and its varieties, these
preferably for cooler places than those already
arachnoideum are all good, with Cerastium tonien-
tosum for rough places.
Finally, to add a cultural note, it is important
that spring-planted walls or seed-sown walls be
carefully tended in the matter of watering till the
plants have become established and capable of
fighting their own battles. Watering should be
so done that the soU is saturated, and in this way
encourage the roots to penetrate the deeper recesses
of the wall, where their safety will be assured.
If these few cultural hints are conscientiously
attended to, and the plants named selected and
planted with a reasonable exercise of common
sense, many old walls and cliffs, that in a neglected
state are more or less an eyesore to their owners,
might be converted into beautiful features, and the
expense would be very small indeed. When the
beginner has mastered the cultivation of these
simple, vigorous growing plants, he will find
further interest in overcoming the subtleties ji
those that only the experienced can bring to
perfection. E. H. Jenkins.
122
THE GARDEN.
[March 7, 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
New Vine Borders. — Planting should not take
place before the end of this month. By that time
the soil should have been warmed through, and
the young Vines will immediately start into
growth. The soil should be carefully removed
from the roots, and this is best done while it is in
a moist condition. No fire-heat will be necessary.
If the Vines were cut down in early winter, so
much the better ; but this must not be attempted
now, or the Vines wUl suffer seriously.
The Early Muscat Vinery. — If the Vines were
started in December, they will soon be showing
flower, and during this period the temperature
should not fall below 70°. Ventilate with caution,
and do not allow the atmosphere to become
stagnant.
Plants Under Glass.
Campanula pyramidalis. — Plants of this, having
been wintered in cold pits, should now be examined,
the surface sod pricked up, and a top-dressing
of fine loam and bone-meal applied. Ventilate
the pit freely, and as the season advances give
frequent waterings of liquid manure. These
plants when well grown are valuable for the
conservatory during the summer and autumn.
The Conservatory. — Let this be kept as attrac-
tive as possible by the introduction of fresh batches
of flowering plants, which may include Rhodo-
dendrons, Lilacs, Wistarias, Deutzias and Azaleas,
as well as various kinds of bulbs. Plants which
are being grown for Easter decorations should
be given plenty of atmospheric moistmre. Very
little fire-heat should be necessary now, but it
is well to have them in a forward state, so that
there may be no mistake about the supply of
such plants as Lilituns, Spiraeas, Richardias and
Solomon's Seal, as well as various kinds of flowering
shrubs.
Fuchsias. — Old plants for summer flowering
may now be cut hard back and placed in a tempera-
ture of 55° until numerous young shoots appear,
and at this stage the old soil may be removed
and the plants potted into a compost of turfy
loam and leaf-soil, with a sprinkling of rough sand.
Early struck cuttings may now be potted into
3-inch pots and plunged in bottom-heat. The
syringe should be freely used and very little air
given. Pot again as soon as the plants are ready,
and place them in a temperatiu-e of 65°.
The Flower Garden.
Bedding Plants. — In the present month there
is much to be done in the way of propagating
bedding plants, both by seeds and cuttings. The
stock of various plants, such as Coleus, Iresine,
Lobelia and Ageratum, is easily increased by
cuttings, which should be inserted in fine sandy
soil as soon as possible. A gentle bottom-heat
is a great advantage where large quantities are
required. Seeds of many summer-flowering plants
should be sown now, and these mav include
Godetia, Clarkia elegans, Nigella, Larkspurs and
.Antirrhinums for autumn flowering.
Plant Out autumn-raised Antirrhinums, Canter-
bury Bells and Sweet Williams in their flowering
quarters. Gladiolus Childsii, G. gandavensis and
G. brenchleyensis may also be planted now.
If only for cutting, these bulbs should be planted
on a border for the purpose, so that the flowers
in more important situations may be left uncut.
Lawns. — During the present month it will be
necessary to roll and sweep the lawns, trim the
edgings and renovate the paths. E.xamine the
drains so that the surface water may pass quicklv
away. All these things should be attended to
as early in the month as possible.
The Rose Garden. — In sheltered situations
some of the hardiest varieties may be pruned now,
but in exposed positions they are better left for
another ten days. In all cases the weak and
unripe wood should be cut away, leaving onlv
that which is strong and well matured. Unless
it is necessary to increase the size of the plants,
strong- growing varieties should be cut back to
within five or six eyes of the base, while the
weaker-growing kinds may be pruned closer, and
always to an eye piinting outward.
The Kitchen Garden.
Tomatoes. — A sowing should be made now to
produce plants for cultivation in the open garden.
Dickson's Open .Air is one of the best for this
purpose.
Parsnips. — The roots of last season's crop
should be lifted at once and placed in some cool
place where a covering of soil or ashes can be
applied to keep them in plump condition. The
ground ought then to be dug, and, if necessary, a
dressing of manure should be given. This ground
may afterwards be occupied by late Cauliflower
or Broccoli. If not already done, the Parsnips
should be sown on grotind which has been deeply
dug or trenched for the purpose. There should
be no delay in sowing the main crop of Onions.
Carrots may also be sown now on well-prepared
soil, and should be ready for use in June.
Beet. — If a warm south border is available, a
sowing of Turnip-rooted Beet may be made now,
and again in a fortnight's time. This should be
ready for use in June, when young roots will be
appreciated.
Peas. — A good sowing of Peas may be made now
in the open garden for use about the end of June.
As soon as the young plants are through the soil,
they may be carefully earthed-up and the stakes
placed in position. The Pea has many enemies,
which must be carefully guarded against. Tlir
Pilot, Early Giant and Gradus mav all be sown
now.
Carrots in Pits should now be ready to thin.
Let this be done before the plants become drawn.
Three inches should be allowed between the
plants. Water the bed carefidly as soon as
thinning is finished, to settle the soil about the
roots. Give air freely when the weather is favour-
able. Carrots which have been allowed to remain
in the ground through the winter should now be
lifted and placed behind a north wall, where
a slight covering of soil or ashes should be provided
to keep them in good condition.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Onions. — Any time after this date the general
or main crop of Onions may be sown out of doors ;
this, of course, will entirely depend on the
condition of the soil. If the ground was turned
up before the winter, the soil will be well pulverised
and in good condition to sow. From this sowing
one does not expect to get very large specimens,
nor are they desirable for keeping purposes ;
consequently it will not be necessary to work in
any manure at this stage. One should always,
however, give the ground a good dressing of soot.
This will be found to be a splendid fertiliser, not
only to assist growth, but as a preventive against
the maggot. As soon as the Onions can be seen
in the rows, the Dutch hoe should be kept going
to keep down weeds and prevent the soil becoming
hard.
Peas. — A sowing of an early variety might be
made outside now, and for this select a warm
border where the soil is inclined to be light. It
is not necessary to have the ground so heavily
manured as one would have it for maincrop varie-
ties. As soon as the plants can be seen in the rows,
give them a dusting of soot, which will ward off
slugs and other pests. One usually finds that it
is this early crop that suffers most from vermin.
Round or Summer Spinach. — A sowing of
Spinach may also be made now. Do not sow
between the rows of Peas, as is so often done.
Unless space is very limited, I think this practice
is to be condemned. This sowing should be made
on a warm border, and, if thinned out, the plants
will not be so liable to run to seed. Continue to
make a sowing, say, every three weeks, which should
give a constant supply.
Parsley. — As a rule, for early supplies of Parsley
I prefer to make a sowing in boxes and plant out
next month. Where this is not possible, a sowing
may be made any time now. We usually grow
our Parsley as an edging, and a very handsome
edging it makes. Sow the seed sparingly and
thin out the seedlings to at least 3 inches apart.
French Beans. — Heated pits or frames are
usually fully occupied at this season, but if one
can be spared, it will be wise to make a sowing
! of French Beans in it. This would prove a useful
crop to follow plants grown in pots, and so keep
up the supply of this fine vegetable.
The Flower Garden.
Pentstemons. — Those growing in frames will
now be making growth, and as it is rather too
early to transplant them in a sheltered border,
I would advise pinching them now. This pinching
is usually done after they have been transplanted,
but I prefer doing it now, and they make ver^-
fine plants if treated in this way. Where one
wishes to increase the stock of some good varieties,
these tops can be rooted in the propagating-pit,
and will make quite good plants by April. Pent-
stemons are becoming popular for massing in
the flower garden, and they are very satisfactory
plants for that purpose. They require no
staking (always a consideration) and will last in
bloom longer than most bedding subjects. Th°
latest addition to this class is Mrs. Fred Fulford,
glowing crimson-scarlet, possibly the finest of its
colour in cultivation.
Violas that have been rooted in cold frames
should now be placed in nursery lines at the
foot of a wall or hedge, and so make room for
other bedding plants that require to be hardened off-
Crataegus Pyracantha (the Fire Thorn).—
For clothing a wall this is a plant that is not so
frequently met with as it might be, considering its
adaptability. It carries its orange scarlet berries
throughout the winter, and these being decidedly
bitter, birds seldom trouble it. This is an excellent
plant for any wall, thriving equally well on the
north and east, and where space is limited it will
just suit it, as it fruits more freely when the
roots are confined.
Tropaeolum speciosum. — This is without doubt
one of the prettiest of all climbers, alike for its
elegant foliage as for its rich crimson flowers.
It is very hard to establish in the wanner
counties of the South, but no difliculty should
be experienced in getting it established in the
North. For some years past I have been success-
ful in growing it on almost any aspect. I prefer
to get the roots, or underground growths as they
are called, in preference to plants that have started
into growth. My practice is to take out a small
trench at the foot of a wall or hedge, and into it
put some leaf-soil ; then lay out the roots hori-
zontally and cover them over with some fine soil.
On no account must they be disturbed after
they have been planted.
Plants Under Glass.
Poinsettias. — These will now be out of bloom.
They ought to be gradually dried off and, finally,
w-ater should be entirely withheld. When resting,
care must be taken to store them where the
temperatmre will not fall much below 50°.
About the end of March or the beginning of April
they may be partly cut back and placed in heat
to produce cuttings. April or May will ia most
cases be quite soon enough to begin propagating.
CliVias (Imantophyllums). — These useful green-
house plants are not now growni as extensively
as they used to be, and yet I find they force
readily. A few plants put into heat from time to
time will produce fine spikes of pale red flowers,
which wUl be much appreciated for decorating.
Unlike most plants when forced, the colour seems
to me to be intensified.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Gooseberries. — As I pointed out some time ago,
there is not nearly enough attention paid to the
pruning and training of the humble Gooseberry.
Anyone seems experienced enough for this work.
In many cases, when the pruning has been com-
pleted, the bushes resemble as much as possible
a hedge that has been indiSerently trimmed.
Some years ago I was very much struck with a
system of training Gooseberries I saw practised
in a garden in Kent. Each bush was supported
by a stake about four feet in length. To this
stake the centre shoot was trained, which gave
it the appearance of a pyramid. The wood in
every part of the bush was thoroughly ripened,
and the crop was one of the finest I have ever.
seen. John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopctotin Gardens, South Queensfcrry, N.B.
March 7, 1914 ]
THE GARDEN.
123
SEASONABLE NOTES ON
CHRYSANTHEMUMS.
DECORATIVE varieties arc being culti-
. vated more extensively every year
I because the blooms can be obtained
' by amateurs from August to
Christmas without a great deal of
labour and expense. New varieties
must be purchased, and no enthusiast will hesitate
in this matter ; and fven where there is a good
stock of cuttings on the place itself, wise growers
will occasionally renew it, or a part of it, from a
fresh source.
Accommodation for Plants. — Now, amateurs.
as a body, do not possess unlimited accommoda-
tion either in the garden itself or under glass, and.
of course, they must grow plants accordingly.
Even a dozen will afford many blooms in December
and at Christmas-time. By judicious stopping,
each specimen may be relied on to yield at least
ten flowers, so from twelve plants more than
one hundred fine blooms may be available, and as
these flowers last fresh for quite a fortnight, a
very nice display will be secured at a season when
all kinds of flowers are scarce.
Propagate by Cuttings Now. — Those of early,
medium and late varieties may be propagated
now. Insert them singly in small pots or three
in 3-inch ones ; then, when rooted, they should
be repotted in larger pots without being disturbed.
In this way fine pots of plants, bearing at least
two dozen blooms, will be available next autumn.
Use a very sandy compost, but place a little well-
rotted manure in the bottom of each pot before
putting in the soil. Make use of a cold frame for
striking the cuttings. They may be rooted in a
frame on a greenhouse stage ; but at this season
the cuttings soon droop, on account of the heat and
dry atmosphere, unless very carefully attended to.
In the cold frame only a light shade will be needed
when the sun's rays are strongest. The early
varieties may be propagated in boxes instead of
flower-pots, inserting them 2 inches apart each way.
From the boxes, transplant the rooted cuttings
to others a little deeper, and from these, in the
early part of May, to their flowering quarters. When
the plants are well rooted and about four inches
high, stop them by pinching out the point. This
operation will induce side shoots to grow, and
usually the three top ones are the strongest and
take the lead. Well, another stopping means an
addition of six shoots, often nine, and so an
amateur cultivator can readily see that, when
finally disbudded, a dozen blooms at least are
ensured. If not 'disbudded, each pot of plants
presents in appearance a huge bouquet. In the
matter of stopping, the late-flowering varieties
should be dealt with first and the earlv ones last.
Sometimes a natural break near the right time
obviates the necessity for stopping.
Good Early Varieties. — Gertie (salmon pink),
Hermine (pure white), Elstob Yellow (better than
Horace Martin), Diana (deep bronzy red). Harvest
Home (red, tipped gold). La Somme (mauve pink).
Normandie (blush pink) Provence (rose pink) and
White Pet.
Medium. — White Quintus, Le Pactole (bronzy
yellow), La Garonne (terra-cotta), October Gold (old
gold), Source d'Or (orange red, tipped gold), Viviand
Morel (blush mauve), William Turner (white, makes
a fine specimen plant), Crimson Source d'Or,
Countess (pure white), Cranford Yellow, Mrs.
Luxford (Indian red) and Janet (reddish buff).
Late. — A. J. Balfour and Dr. Enguchard (two
good pinks), Baldock's Crimson, December Gold,
Mrs. J. Thompson (white), Western King (white),
Nagoya (yellow), Emblerae Poitevine (yellow)
and Tuxedo (reddish bronze). Avon.
NURSERY NOTES.
NEW ROSES IN IRELAND.
IN July last I paid my second visit to the
beautiful Emerald Isle, and as I know that
so many readers of The Garden are very
much interested in all that pertains to
our national flower, especially its novelties,
I thought a few notes as to what I saw
during my visit to the three famous nurseries at
Portadown, Belmont and Newtownards would
find a welcome in its pages. I have visited most
of the leading establishments, both at home and
abroad, where Rose hybridising is carried out
extensively, but I think I should have to award the
had been budded or would be budded. At one time
Mr. McGredy used to bud five or six each of every
seedling he raised — a most prodigious undertaking-
but now he is obliged to make selections and bud
only the piost promising. As it was, I saw one
breadth of stocks containing some 30,000 that had
been budded with selected seedlings, no sort in
' greater number than ten or twelve. What an
interesting plot this will be this summer ! Even
while I was there, there were very many kinds
that had started into growth, and I detected
some rare gems, some nearly black, others of most
wondrous shades. I have an invitation to go over and
see this block in bloom this summer, and I only hope
I am able to avail myself of it. Mr. McGredy is
working on the right lines. He is providing us
with rare colours of splendid vigour of growth.
We who had the handling of many thousands
of plants last autumn know only too well
of the great popularity of Lady Alice Stanley,
Mrs. Wakefield Christie Miller, Mrs. Alfred Tate,
Edward Mawley, Mrs. Herbert Stevens, Mrs.
J^Y*'
%
, V ' J
«*iai ■ '"*
'%■':■■ ' >*/ ;:■ .■■■';:'
FREESIA EXCELSIOR, A BEAUTIFUL NEW VARIETY SHOWN BY MESSRS. SUTTON AND
SONS AT THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S SHOW LAST WEEK. {See page 120.)
palm for this to Messrs. McGredy. No one could
view that splendid house, some 90 feet long, full of
plants, every one bearing huge seed-pods, without
being impressed by the sight. The crosses made
all seemed to have been effective, for the plants
bore from three to six, and often more, grand
heps, many of the size of small Pears. I was
informed that Mr. McGredy had long been working
with the old Tea-scented Roses. I could hardly
name a variety but what he said was in that house
to be used as a pollen parent chiefly. Can we not
trace, now that we know, the influence of some of
these old Tea Roses upon several of Mr. McGredy's
seedlings ? Surely Mrs. Herbert Stevens, in its
almost horizontal and slender growths, has a
large infusion of the old Niphetos. Comtesse de
Nadaillac, Mme. de Watteville, Devoniensis, Sou-
venir d'Elise Vardon and others were all in some
way utilised and blended with the Hybrid Tea.
In another huge structure were to be seen
thousands of the little seedlings, many of which
.Amy Hammond and others. Next autumn I
expect a great demand for Old Gold. It is typical
of Mrs. .Alfred Tate, only of a very intense old
gold colouring. Something like 10,000 of this
variety had been budded before my visit, and the
same number each of Mrs. Charles E. Pearson.
Mrs. Frederick Vanderbilt, Lady Mary Ward and
Edith Part. This wdl give some idea of the
estimation in which this year's novelties are
valued by their raiser. I saw such a number of
good things that I cannot possibly name them all.
One named after Mrs. W. D. Prior will be heard
of in the future. It is a beautiful golden sort with
very long buds. Duchess of Manchester is a fine
Rose of free-flowering habit. I noted that it bore
some resemblance in its flower to E Veyrat
Hermanos, that very vigorous but shy blooming
climber, and I was informed that this Rose was its
pollen parent. Colleen is a "' great " Rose. Practi-
cally every flower comes perfect, and there is a
distinct yellow base to its rich rose coloured
124
THE GARDEN.
[.March 7, 1914.
blossom?. The petals of this Rose are enormous.
Mrs. C. E. Pearson will probably surpass Lyon
Rose, and Lady Mar\' Ward, Mrs. F. VanderbiU
and Edith Part are all worthy additions. The
latter is like a heavily shaded Mme. Abel Chatenay.
.\ beautiful golden seedling was far better than
Mme. Ravary, as seen growing at Portadown,
and no small attraction was its beautiful Beetroot-
<^oloured foliage. Here also was a lo\ely scarlet
better than Liberty. lona Herdmann, Florence
Forester, Mrs, Ricardo and Mrs, F, Dennison
were all gems that we shall all be wanting when
introduced. To view the stupendous number of
seedlings, both here at Newtownards and Belmont,
one could not help feeling that Rose-lovers are
assured of novelties for many years to come. It
IS to be hoped that the special attention that will
. be directed to the production of fragrant novelties
by the gift of a beautiful challenge cup by Messrs.
ciay and Son will induce raisers to strain every
effort towards this end. I feel certain that ii
raisers would refrain for a time from intercrossing
so many of the scentless Hybrid Teas, but rather
utilise the Damask and Hybrid Perpetuals as pollen
parents, at least we should have more fragrant
novelties, I fear that this quality enters very little
into the estimation of a ne\v Rose on the part
of the judges who award the gold medals, but I am
also certain that if we could obtain a jury from the
general public, this quality would not be ignored.
From Portadown I journeyed to Belmont, and
met with a most hearty welcome from Messrs.
Hugh Dickson, It is always a pleasure to go to
Belmont. Both of the brothers who control this
huge business are tilled with enthusiasm for the pro-
duction of novelties of merit. Mr. Hugh Dickson,
who carries out the hybridising, sets himself a
very high standard, so much so that novelties
1 thought splendid did not attain to his ideal.
This is as it should be, and certainly we are sure
of having good introductions from such a source.
(In my notes the word "glorified" occurs very
trequently.) One is a glorified Mme. .\bel Chatenay,
another a glorified -Mme. Segond Weber, another
a glorified Mrs. Foley Hobbs, and so on. Perhaps
one of the greatest novelties I saw was Gorgeous,
I started putting three crosses to certain kinds, but
tound very soon I had to increase them to four,
and then to six in the case of Gorgeous. There
is a blending of amber, crushed Strawberry, with
tips of ivory white. Mrs. John Jamieson is a
splendidly built Rose ; Archie Gray may take
the challenge cup, for its scent is delicious ; Mrs.
R. J. McMordie has huge flowers of a most lovely
shade ; Mrs. Willie Dickson is the glorified
Chatenay ; Mrs. Hugh Dickson is one of the
" great " Roses, and is it any wonder that every bud
was being worked of it ? Countess Clanwilliam is
considered by the firm as one of the very best
productions, and is a glorified Luciole. Duchess
of Buccleuch, ivory and cream, tipped pink ;
Ulster Gem, a splendid addition to single Roses,
the first real yellow variety ; Mrs, J. W. Parker
will completely rival Bessie Brown ; and 1 shall
not be surprised to find it at the head of Mr,
Mawley's Analysis of show Roses very soon. Charm-
ing is well named, and will be a formidable rival to
.Mrs, A, R. Waddell, Brilliant is also well named ;
it is of the colour of Pelargonium Paul Crampcl, and
one can imagine what a bed of this Rose will be like.
Muriel Dickson has Pernetiana blood in it ; one can
see this at a glance. T cannot describe its shade
.)f colour, neither do I think an artist could paint it.
These are but a few of the beautiful novelties
in store lor us at Belmont, T only wish we did not
need to wait four or five years for some of them ;
but when a new Rose is produced it takes quite
a long time to raise up a stock equal to the demand.
I certainly think something should be done to
secure to our raisers a sort of copyright in their
productions ; but how it is to be done has hitherto
baffled all who have tried to solve the difficulty.
We heard from the Rev, J, H. Pemberton at the
National Rose Society's annua! meeting that the
raising of new Roses did not pay, and I believe the
large raiserwould endorse this statement. The public
should, therefore, if they wish for good novelties,
do all in their power to support the industry.
I must defer giving an account of my visit to
Newtownards for another article. Danecroft.
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
Every department of horticulture is represented 171 The
Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions
relatimj to waiters iipnn irhirh they wish expert adi-icf.
The Editor urh-niw'K photographs, articles and notes,
but he will not be rvsponsib/e for their safe return. All
reasonable care, huwevtr, will be taken, and where stumps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.
.-l.v rri/ard-'i phntor/raphs, if payment )"'•' desired, the Editor
u.sks that the prirr rpijuirnl for ri'pnHlnrtion tie plainly stated.
It must bi' distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
qrapher or owner of thr. copyright nUl tie treated with.
The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literan/ contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
artich' is wrcptrd. Publication in The Garden will alone
he reco'iniscd as acceptance .
O/iiccs : 211, Turlstork Street, Corent Garden. W.C.
ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— T/iC Editor intends to
make THE Uakden helpful to all readers who desire assist-
ance, HO matter lohat the braneh ol gardening may be, and
with thai object will make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should he
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The CiRDEN, 20, Tavistock
Street, Cocent Garden, iMidon, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, eacli sliould he on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowerinO
shoots, where possible, sfwidd be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher.
FLOWER GARDEN.
INJURY TO VIOLETS l,Trent).^Thu fuugu.^ Botrytis
oiiiiTc'ii is attacking the foliage of the Violets scut. It
is one liki'ly to be" troublesome if the plants are at nil
close, ami even when they grow vigorously they arc apt
to become victims of this fungus attack unless every
precaution is taken to maintain a free circulation of air
arnunil and b(-twec'ii tbr plants.
MAKING A WALL GARDEN (rorfcs),— We are obliged
by yimr letter, Tbe wliolr question of a " few inches "
or a " few feet " of coiurete or stone, resolves itself into
one of eu-cumstancc, and frequently, as we know full
well stone is scarce, wliile sHital>le material for concrete
is more generally available, A wall 20 feet high con-
structed of a " few feet " thick of rock with a good biitter
should be as solid as the rock itself. In some localities,
however, tlie cost of so much stone would be prohibitive,
^Vall "ai-deuing presents so many phases that we hope
in the near future t., ileal with it in a short series of articles,
and to show liy ilhislratioii and text what is possible in
\areine ein-iiin.t.tiiees.
PLANTS TO SUCCEED DELPHINIUM (B. H. S. £.). -
The .\eonituin would certainly be good as a succession,
but it comes late ami is tall growing. A much better
way of filling the gap woukl be by planting mdiscrimi-
nat.lv '■lumps ol the pure white Madonna Lily, which
tlowei- in mid- July at i feet or 4 feet high, to be followed
some wei-ks later bv the spreading plants of Aster Amellu.s,
which take, up so little room at other seasons. The
Aster is about two feet high, the colour violet or soiiie
shade; of purple. It is a good plant and a wonderful
bloomer, .\ster dilfilsus horizoiitalis and A. i-neoides
Desire, reddish and white respeetiv.'ly, would be e(|iially
"ood and free-flowering. These latter are about three
Feet in height.
FLOWERS FOR CUTTING (Nemo).- lu the' 4-ieet-
wi.le bed at the li.iMse eud of the lawn you could not do
better than plant Sweet Peas, which are both useful for
cutting and profuse In flowering. Of these you might
plant circular groups, as shown in a recent issue of THK
Garden, selecting the colours to your liking. With these
might lie interspersed the pink Ivy-leaved Pelargonium
.Mme. frousse and white JIarguerite Mrs, F, Sander,
and with a margin of Godetia a gay border would result
for a long time. For the narrower side borders you
might have Cornflowers, Sweet Sultans, Gaillardias,
Stocks. China .\sters in variety and Carnations, In the
11-feet-long bed. Heliotrope pegged down, with a margin
of white ,\lvssum, would do quite well, and in that at the
back Iris pallida. I, Mine. Clureau. I. .Mrs, C, Darwin,
.Montbretlas. Phlo.v ,Mrs, Jenkins, Gaillardias, Columbines.
-\ster -\mellus. .\, ericoidcs Desire, A. eordilollus, A.
Beautv of Colwall, Kndbeckla Newmanll. Trollius Orange
Globe. Helenlum pumllum, and single and double flowered
Pyrethnims. These latter are perennial, and well sulteil
to your requirements.
BORDERS FOR PERENNIALS (Bullion).— It bi not
quite clear from voiir letter uln tlier you require perennials
for tile whole of' the bniilers anniiid the lawn, \Vc note
vou have -\pple trees apparently In the centre of the
iiorth tiorder and Poplars — these presumably near the
wall on the south side, Xot many plants would succeed
near these latter. Other drawbacks to success, if we
rightlv Interpret your figures, are the 20-feet-hlgli walls
at east and west, though this might not be serious if,
in planting, you keep the subjects 2 feet or 3 feet from
the walls, ' For the e.ast end border you might arrange
Hollvhoeks. Delphiniums In variety, Sunflowers, tall
Michaelmas Daisies, white and rose perennial Pea,
Helenium Elverton Beauty and other such plants In the
back row, setting out three or more of each to form
effective groups. In the next line, which should be at
least 2 feet from the first, arrange .\nemone japonlca,
\ j aiha, A. j. rosea. Phlo.ves Jlrs, E, II, Jenkins, Iris,
Coqiiclieot, Countess of Ilehester, Lady Mary Hope,
lleinilus, Selma and Queen AleNandra. together with
Iris pallida dalmatlca, I, Mme, Cbereau, I, Dr, Bernlee,
T, Darius and I, Mrs, C, Darwin, These may be alternated
the one with the other, and by introdiuing Lilium croceuni,
L, candldum. L, speciosum and others among them obtain
"reatcr variety. In the front line, single and double
Pyrethrums. .\ster .\melhis, A. acrls, Helenlum pumllum.
Trollius Orange Globe, Iris Victorias. Phlox Tapis Blanc,
Campanula carpatica alba, C, .Moerhelmli, C. alomerata
speciosa and Clove Carnations might appear ; while,
if room stUl remained at the margin. Pinks, dwarf Cam-
panulas, .\ubrietias and Mossy Saxifrages should he
planted. The dry raised border at the opposite end,
if dee|ily trenched and heailly manured, would grow
Irises of several sections quite well, or you might make It
gav with Carnations, Snapdragon, Pentstemons and
other plants In variety. The Spiinlsh Irises would prove
most useful In such a case.
ROSE GARDEN.
ROOTED BRIAR CUTTINGS (D. D. F., Kelso).— Vi'-
fear you will have some dilflculty In purchasing these, as
Rose-growers, as a rule, do not grow them for sale. Try
your local Rose-grower, or, perhaps, Messrs, Cocker and
Sons, .\berdeeii,
ROSE CLIMBING MME. MELANIE SOUPERT (Annie
r,auTie).—'Wc think any of the nurserymen who advertise
Hoses in our columns could supply you with thLs, even if
they do not list It, If not, and you mil send your full
name and address, we will communicate with you by post,
CLIMBING ROSES IN GREENHOUSE (Westbank).— The
side shoots, or laterals, of Climbing Caroline Testout ami
Climbing Liberty should be cut back hard at once, say.
to one or two eyes each. If the plants were pot-grown,
they should flower well ; but if they were from the open
ground and planted In the border last October, you must
not expect much bloom this season.
REARRANGING A ROSE GARDEN (C. £.).— Wc have
much pleasure in advising vou upon rearranging your
Rose garden, and as it Is Impossible to deal fully with it
in THE Garden, we have forwarded a sketch by post, indi-
cating therein the proposed alterations. We quite agree
with you as to the spotty effect as at present arranged,
and we have noticed many gardens sadly marred by this
anparcnt careless grouping of colours. You must discard
entirely Relne Marie Henrlette, as It Is too vigorous for
bedding, W. A, Richardson is hardly the kind for your
purpose, as Its growth would not harmonise with the other
lieds unless you peg It down. We have suggested the best
kinds, according to vour wishes. Should you wish to
kee|) one variety to a bed, you would, of course, use that
varietv vim now possess
PRUNING CONRAD F. MEYER (Howdcn).— When this
"rand Hose is gro\ra in clumps, much of Its beauty is
fost if allowed to grow awav as a free bush. If only niu-
plant 111 a clump, the variety might very well be allowed to
"row almost naturally, as In time Its growth would arch
over like a wild Rose of the hedgerows. In your ease we
would advise cutting out some of the oldest wood quiti'
close to the ground, and the ripened yonug growths retain
some 3 feet long, others 4 feet, and one or two 5 feet. Do
not encourage too dense a groivth. If the plants are fairly
close In the bed, you could retain about four growths per
plant ; the blooms would be all the flnor for this thmnlng.
Be sure to feed the plants well, and. If you do this, you will
obtain splendid blooms almost exhibition size, .\ cluinp or
two of tlio white sport. .Nova Zeinbla, would lie a welcome
addition, as its snow white, fragrant blooms are always
welcome.
^^^1.
»^-^-
GARDEN.
-35--^^i§^^5^
No. 2208.— Vol. LXXVIII.
March 14, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Writing for Catalogues. — It has come to our
Icnowledge that a good many people, when writing
for seed or plant catalogues, place their letters
in imsealed envelopes and stamp these with only
a halfpenny stamp. Under the Post Office Regu-
lations this is not permissible, and letters sent
in that way are surcharged one penny on delivery.
This is a serious item to nurserymen and seedsmen,
and those who apply for catalogues should either
use post-cards or penny stamps.
A Beautiful JSarly Flowering Slirub.— Although
Parrotia persica was introduced into this
country as far back as r848, it is seldom found
in gardens. It is a very attractive plant in
February, when whole branches are often pro-
fusely furnished with flowers,
the crimson-tipped stamens of
the male blossoms being singu-
larly beautiful and imcommon.
Although perfectly hardy, it
benefits if sheltered from the
cold winds by other trees.
Apart from its attraction at
this season of the year, it is one
of the most handsome of foliage
plants during the autumn.
Small Daffodils for the
Rocliery. — Both Narcissus mini-
ums and N. lobularis are excel-
lent subjects for the rock garden.
They flower early in the year,
when bright colour is wanted,
and neither of them is fastidious
about soil, provided that it is
light and well drained. N.
minimus is the smallest Daffodil
there is, and one of the first
to flower. In the Midlands it
began to bloom this year about
mid-February in sheltered places,
while in the South of England it
was considerably earlier. N.
lobularis follows it with about ten days' interval.
It is quite twice the size of N. minimus, and is
not such a self colour, the perianth being a much
paler yellow than its trumpet. When once
established, both will take care of themselves.
Pruning Ivy. — Few plants are so generally
serviceable as varieties of Ivy, either for clothing
a wall, hiding unsightly objects, or for covering
bare places under trees. Ivies may be planted
now, and if established plants in pots can be
secured, so much the better, as they go straight
away without any check. There are a number
of beautiful varieties to select from, and although
the large-leaved Ivies grow quickly, the smaller-
leaved varieties are preferred for most purposes.
To keep Ivy bright, it should be cut over once a
year to remove the old leaves. This is best done
now, for although Ivy can be cut at almost any
time during the winter, by leaving it until now
it soon becomes furnished with its new leaves,
and therefore does not remain bare for long.
A Giant Groundsel. — Few plants can be more
effective at the present time than Senecio grandi-
florus, with its large, handsome leafage and noble
stature, the growth of which sometimes reaches
to a height of lo feet and terminates with a
huge, flat corymb of yellow flowers from r foot
to 2 feet across. The species is a native of Mexico,
and, to secure good specimens for the coming
season, seeds should be sown at once. It is a very
striking plant for the subtropical garden, and if
TRITELEIA OR
BRODI.EA UNIFLORA, ONE OF THE
FLOWER IN SPRING.
the flowering period is not reached in the open,
the plant may be lifted and potted for decorating
the conservatory in the winter.
A Beautiful Camellia. — Anyone who is familiar
with the large plant of this Chinese species growing
in the Temperate House at Kew cannot fail to
have been impressed by its magnificent flowers
when at their best during February or early March,
for they are quite distinct from, and appeal to
the decorator more than, the formal flowers
of many of the varieties of C. japonica. The
bright red flowers are semi-double, with large,
irregular-shaped petals and a central mass ot
golden stamens, individual blossoms being from
5 inches to 6 inches across, with a resemblance
to those of a semi-double Pfeony.
The Spring Starflower (Triteleia uniflora). —
This beautiful bulbous plant, native of Buenus
Aires, is now flowering in many gardens throughout
this country. At Wisley it has made a bright
display for the past week or two, where it rejoices
in a sandy soil and sunny position. The flowers
are about six inches high and pale lilac in colour.
Like many other garden plants, the Spring
Starflower has the misfortune to bear u
number of scientific names, having been placed
in three genera, viz., Triteleia, Brodiaea and
Milla.
An Early Daffodil. — The earliest of the large-
flowered Daffodils to open with us outdoors this
year was Narcissus pallidus praecox, the first blooms
unfolding on Friday, the 6th inst.
This is a very dainty Daffo-
dil, and one that ought to
be more extensively cultivated.
Unfortunately, it has the undesir-
able trait of dying out in many
places, and fresh bulbs have to be
planted every two or three years.
But for its earliness alone it is
well worth the expense and
trouble, and in a few gardens it
thrives and increases. We have
it nestling under the wall of the
house, by the front door, the
aspect being due south. These
early spring flowers seem to
appreciate close association with
the dwelling - house, though,
a grass-carpeted copse would
provide a more natural
setting.
Coloured Freesias. — We lately
saw a good pot of Le Phare,
which is one of the brightest of
the new coloured race that have
been sent out in recent years by
the firm of Van Tubergen, juii.,
is of a deep rose colour, the
individual blooms on the small side, but to make
up for this deficiency it is a verj' free bloomer and
deliciously scented. The price of this and all the
others is high, but we are told by those who have
grown them that they are just as easy to manage
as either F. refracta alba or Leichtlini. There is no
difficulty in working up a little stock, if the
bulbs are looked after when they have done
flowering. They want feeding with some fertiliser
until the leaves begin to turn yellow, when water
must be gradually withheld and the bulbs
thoroughly ripened by the pots being turned
on their sides and put in a warm, sunny place
out of the reach of wet, until they are shaken out
and graded at planting-time in .\ugust.
EARLIEST BULBS TO
of Haarlem. It
126
THE GARDEN.
[March 14, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
Hardiness of Spiraea lindleyana. — in a recent
issue I saw it stated that Spiraea lindlej-ana
can be only " recommended with safety for
Southern gardens." I have a very fine specimen,
of which I enclose a photograph, in my Yorkshire
garden, 500 feet above the sea-level, on the north
side of my house. The photograph was taken
on August 26. The largest stump measured
16 inches in circumference, and the largest living
branch 12 inches. This shrub was an offset
from a plant growing in a small garden in Rich-
mond, Yorks, which was given me quite forty
years ago. I have been told since that it was
not kno\vn in England so long ago. JMy impression
is that it was sent to my friend from South America.
I have given awav manv offsets of this Yorkshire
Sherborne House. No:thleach. R.S 0. [We thank
Lord Sherborne for his interesting letter, and
should be pleased to hear from any other readers
who have found this charming little Heath thrive
in limestone soil. — Ed ]
Saxifraga burseriana and lis Varieties.—
In your issue of last week " Alpinist " states on
page 114 that he doubts if Saxifraga burseriana
and its varieties Gloria and major can be dis-
tinguished when groixTi under similar conditions.
My little experience with them has shown S. b.
Gloria to be totally distinct from the type ; indeed,
for gardening purposes it might even be a distinct
species. 1 have one clump of the type and one
of S. b. Gloria growing side by side in the same
pocket of my rock garden. Each clump measures
about eight inches in diameter. On February 13
the type began to open its beautiful snow white
flowers, fifteen in all. S. b. Gloria did not begin
to flower until February 24, just as the type was
going o^^er. No fewer than thirty-seven strong
;^.:-^
A FINE PLANT OF SPIR.EA UNDLEYANA IN A YORKSHIRE GARDEN. THIS SHRUB
IS GENERALLY CONSIDERED HARDY ONLY IN SOUTHERN COUNTIES.
specimen, and have now a good plant in my garden
in Bucks. — Hedgerley.
The note by Mr. Louden of South
Woodford in February 28 issue, page ro2, was
of interest to rne. We have three plants of
the same shrub here. They are on heavy soil
and absolutely exposed to the north, yet they
flower in profusion, and have been greatly
admired. At present they are again very promis-
ing.— J. F. RouGHT, Buckland, Berks.
Erica carnea in Limestone Soil. — Surely the
little pink Heath which is now flowering so
abundantly here is Erica camea ? Yet I see that
a writer in your issue of February 28, page 102,
says that E. carnea " spreads rapidly in a sandy
peat soil, or it may readily be grown in a loamy
soil if there is no lime present." The garden here
is situated in the middle of the Cotswolds, and the
soil is nothing but a limestone soil, yet Erica camea
spreads rapidly and flowers abundantly, and I
have always looked upon it as the one Hfath
which would flourish on limestone. — Sherborne,
flower-stems were produced, each bearing a
magnificent flower fully twice the size of the type.
The entire plant seems smothered with blossom
still. The petals appear to be of stronger texture
than in the type, and as the flower-stalks are
quite 2 inches long, they are not so easily soiled.
As they come into bloom I protect them with a
pane of glass overhead, and also have to surround
them with a perforated zinc ring to keep slugs
from eating the flowers. My plants are growing
in very gritty loam facing south-east, but receive
a little shade from the east from a plant of Hyperi-
cum olympicum in an adjoining pocket. They
arc watered copiously in dry, hot weather, and
seem to thrive well under these conditions. —
Norman G. Hadden, St. Audreys, Malvern.
Reference has been made by " Alpinist "
in your issue of March 7 to the Saxifraga burseriana
grandiflora exliibited by Mr. Frank Lloyd of
Croydon and illustrated on page ir6 of that issue.
The writer stated that it would be interesting
' to hear what the cultivator hjtl to sav- upon
how such a specimen was obtained. I would
dispel any doubts upon the quantity of flowers
the plant carried. The plant was shown in an
8-inch pan, 5 inches deep, with 354 perfectly
developed flowers. There were other inferior
buds setting in the crowns of the plants which
were not in flower at the time of exhibiting, making
a total of about three hundred and seventy.
These later buds have come into flowsr since ;
the majority of the 350 have gone over or faded.
I counted the flowers before exhibiting, and had
two witnesses to observe that the number was cor-
rect. The method of cultivation is simple. The pans
are well drained with potsherds and red brick,
broken up. A layer of turfy material is placed
over the crocks, and sandstone 2 inches thick and
4 inches deep is set upon the turfy material and
allowed to keep above the soil, which should be
pressed firmly between the sandstone when potting
or placing them in the pans from pots or division.
The soil consists of a small quantity of loam,
and this binds the compost together as it is motmded
above the level of the rim of the pan. A slightly
larger quantity of finely sifted leaf-soil than the
loam is added, with, also, coarse sand, sifted coke-
ashes and old mortar rubble. These ingredients
are well mixed together. A very important
matter is the site for S. burseriana and its allies.
Our method is to plunge them in a bed of coke-
ashes after they have done flowering, and start
them into growth in early May, out in the open in the
brightest light possible, keeping them well watered
through the summer months. In October the
plants are transferred to cold frames and plimged
in ashes, with air admitted continuously night and
day. The plants are never shaded, either while in
flower or out, not even if division has taken place.
This type of Saxifraga must not suffer from drought
at any time, and while in bud search must be made
for green fly in the axils of the crowns of the plants,
for the insects transport themselves to the flowers,
which will not open if infested. We pick them
out with small tweezers in the early stage if a plant
contains the pest. — M. E. Mills. The Gardens,
Coombe House. Croydon. Surrey
Peat Moss Manure for Rliododendrons.—
I am reading the symposium appearing in The
Garden upon the subject of peat moss manure
with interest, especially as I am making a bed
for Rhododendrons and thought of using it.
One of the contributors spoke of having used it
for that class of plant, so I wrote him for further
information, and received the enclosed reply,
which perhaps may prove of interest to readers
of The Garden. [" I have generally used it
with about one-fourth of its own bulk of sea-sand,
of which we can easily get an abimdance, being
on the shore of the Firth of Forth. I have, however,
used it with good effect neat, and always almost
fresh from the stables. I have been particularly
struck in one instance as to its utility in the latter
form. When 1 took charge of the gardens here,
thirty-two years ago, I found what was evidently
from its foliage (there was no flower) a good varietv
of a hybrid Rhododendron in the last stages of
decay, under a thicket of trees. I had it removed
to an open situation, where 1 planted it with an
abundance of pure moss litter fresh from the
stables ; it gradually began to resuscitate, and
for many years it has been an object of great
beauty (its quality being all I had anticipated),
and at the present time it is smothered with
swelling flower-buds. 1 have no doubt you would
find it equally useful mixed with good fibrous
loam. — Chas. Comfort."!. — Hubert Rensted.
March 14, 1014.'
THE GARDEN.
127
Peat Moss Litter Manure : Is it Injurious ?—
1 have used a great deal of peat moss litter manure,
and have a high opinion of its maniu-ial qualities.
I find it especially good for digging into fjowcr
beds and borders, where it would not be wise
to use strong farmyard manure, which would
cause the plants to make foliage at the expense
of flowers. Where one has difiiculty in growing
Carrots, it may be applied as a top-dressing just
after they have been thinned. This will prevent
an attack of Carrot fly, for it is well known that
any evil-smelling substance is repugnant to this
pest. As a top-dressing to inside Vine borders
it is invaluable, as it tends to keep the roots near
the surface, a point always to be aimed at. On
the whole, however, I consider that for general
purposes it is not superior to well-made farmyard
manure ; nevertheless, I consider it an e.xcellent
substitute. — John Highgate, Hopetoun Gardens,
South Queensferry, N.B.
— — I have not had much experience with peat
moss litter, for the reason that I would not have it
in the garden. I do not think this is altogether pre-
judice, for what little I have had dug into the ground
never appeared to me to incorporate itself with
the soil, but would turn up again at a later digging
without, apparently, having imparted much virtue
to the soil. In my opinion, straw manure, well
rotted, is rafinitely superior as a manure. — Arthur
Bullock, The Gardens, Copped Hall, Epping.
My experience with this manure has been
far from satisfactory. Some years since I used
it in a trench for growing Leeks. The manure
was rather fresh. Possibly a month had elapsed
from the time of planting before any bad result
was noticed. Then gradually the young plants
died oS. The shortage of good stable manure
is a serious drawback in many gardens. When
purchasing manure, one has to be very careful,
and the loads as they arrive should be examined.
Shavings from joiners' shops, and even sawdust,
are used in many stables as bedding, and, needless
to say, the manure from these materials is injurious
to plant-life. Sweepings from the streets are
also dangerous, that is, from streets where prepara-
tions containing tar or other poisonous substances
are used upon the surface. I notice in a recent
issue of a contemporary that Mr. W. Crump,
the well-known gardener at Madreslield Court,
in reference to the cultivation of Montbretia,
writes : " Do not use fresh manure, especially
if the animals have been littered with peat
moss." — C. R.
Hardy Cyclamen. — These flower both in winter
and early autumn, though perhaps the winter-
flowering khids, veritable harbingers of spring
as they undoubtedly are, receive the greater
welcome because of that fact. This year, chiefly
because of the exceeding mildness of the season,
they are earlier than usual, as witness the fine
displays that were forthcoming at both the January
meetings of the Royal Horticultural Society.
These, doubtless, had received frame protection—
they certainly afforded no proof of having been
forwarded in heat — though, even so, their flowering
was abnormally early. Thus grown they make
lively pictures in the alpine-house, and even
though quite miniature ^s compared with the
giants of the Persian race, they are none the less
welcome, certainly none the less beautiful or
charming. Not less pretty — decidedly more
natural — are they when seen carpeting the ground
in sheltered woodland places, where, nestling in
the scant grass or herbage of the time in sweet
communion with all around, they brave the
liardships of the weather, and, protected by tlteir
carpeting leaves, remain fresh and bright for
many days. — E. H. J.
Tlie Yellow Snowdrops. — The Snowdrops with
yellow instead of green markings are in full bloom
at present, and are much more charming than
many who consider such flowers as freaks would
suppose. I have the single lutescens and flavescens,
with the double one, and one or two others. They
are very beautiful, although this is not said in
any mood of depreciation of the common Snowdrop
with its exquisite green markings. — S. Arnott.
Rtiododendron moupinense. — The illustration
of this Rhododendron in The Garden for
February 21, page 98, gives an excellent idea of
an attractive little plant which, when available,
will be a welcome addition to the small-leaved,
dwarf Rhododendrons suitable for the rock garden.
The plant shown at Vincent Square was raised at
Warley from seed sent from Western China by
Mr. E. H. Wilson when collecting for the Arnold
Arboretum. It flowers the third year from seed,
and has proved itself to be perfectly hardy during
its five years' experience in the open at Warley. —
E. WiLLMOTT.
Sowing Hollylioek Seed. — In reference to
your note upon this subject on page 89, February 21
issue, it may interest your readers to know that
the noted growers, Messrs. James Vert and Sons
of Saffron Walden, Essex, raise very large quanti-
ties of plants annually from seed sowa in the
open ground in May. Plants raised at this time
become strong and sturdy enough to stand
throughout the winter. To this firm, who have
made a careful study of the Hollyhock for many
years, we are indebted for the introduction of
many beautiful varieties, and their annual exhibits
at the Royal Horticultural Hall, and also at
Shrewsbury, are always a source of pleasure to
florists. In order to check the spread of disease,
which is such a serious drawback to the cultivation
of these noble plants, the above firm have prepared
a specific, in powder form, which has proved a
boon to growers. — Colin Ruse, Folly Farm
Gardens, Sulhamstead, near Reading.
The Hailshamberry. — -A paragraph in The
Garden for February 28 on autumn-fruiting
Raspberries reminds me that I have never publicly
acknowledged, as I intended to do, my deep debt of
gratitude to the Hailshamberry for having supplied
me with fruit for delicious little pies or tarts last
year right on from September to early December.
These, by the way, were always made d la the
small pork or veal pies that one gets at the refresh-
ment rooms of our railway stations. Made in
this way, I always think the flavour is better than
when the fruit is put into an ordinary dish and
cooked in the usual way. The aroma when the
crust is broken down is a veritable appetiser
for the delicious mouthful that will follow. To
start with I had only four or five plants, which
in the course of two years have become joined
into a line at the foot of a south wall. I cut out
all the old wood and prune any shoots likely to
bloom before the autumn. Nature does the rest.
The berries are acid in flavour, and I find birds
leave them severeh' alone. In appearance they are
like fat Raspberries, and the fruits, once fonned,
go on ripening in most unpropitious weather.
I cannot say that the plant is very free-fruitnig,
but there is not much to complain about, and very
likely with better treatment than I have given it
this might be entirely overcome. I always say
that if for any reason I only grew one kind of
fruit in my garden, that fruit \yould be the Rasp-
berry. In jam and jelly, in sauce and salad
(alone, with a suspicion of maraschino), in planta-
tion and pie, it is unsurpassed. My grateful
respects to the Hailshamberry for the long-drawn-
out season that it gives us. — Joseph Jacob.
Two Fine Dwarl Lobelias. — Although formal
bedding is not now much favoured, there is
still room in most flower gardens for a really
good Lobelia. For the last seven or eight years
I have grown Waverley Blue, and nowhere have
I seen anything finer. It is a true blue in shade,
the blooms being large and very freely produced.
As a bedder it leaves little to be desired, and for
pot work far surpasses anything I have ever
tried. Under glass, of course, it is a little paler
in colour ; but it blooms for four or five months
on end, and never gets straggly. This variety also
keeps well during the winter under ordinary
treatment. The other variety I favour is named
Halley's Blue ; it is several shades darker than
the first named, and has a very slight tinge of
purple. It is later in blooming, too, than Waverley
Blue, but continues right on till frost cuts it down.
It is dwarf and very floriferous. but not very good
under glass. — C. Blair, Preston House Gardens,
Linlithgow.
MY GARDEN BEAUTIFUL.
I know a garden beautiful,
All filled with rare delight ;
No fairer feast of bud and bloom
Sure ever met the sight ;
.\nd when a myriad smiling lips
Receive the sunbeams' kiss,
-A song of such sweet rapture floats
And trembles into bliss.
Far from the World's unresting ways
My footsteps love to stray.
Unto this garden of delight
Where cooling fountains play ;
To rest my tired heart, and feel
Sweet wooing whispers bless, —
The tender eloquence of winds
That sigh their soft caress.
Adown each fragrant winding path
Ah me, what healing blows !
What peace outbreathes from shapely forms
Where Love has lent repose ;
The vision of all tints — how fair !
How fair each shining cup !
Dew-filled with glint of diamond.
Where thirsty bird may sup.
.\nd in this paradise of flowers.
The warbling never dies !
It wakes the morn, it lulls at eve,
It closes beauty's eyes ;
.\nd as I seek it ever here,
The bloom Heartsease is found ;
.\nd so my Garden Beautiful
To me is holy ground.
Fr.\nces Handlev.
FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
March 17. — Broughty Ferry Horticultural .Asso-
ciation's Meeting.
March 18. — Ste\'enage and District Horticultura
Society's Spring Show.
March 19. — Linnean Society's Meeting. Royal
Society of .Arts Meeting : Paper by Mrs. Villiers-
Stuart on " Indian Water Gardens." Exliibition
of Spring Flowers at Brighton,
128
THE GARDEN.
[March 14, 1014
PERENNIALS FOR SPRING
PLANTING.
IT is generally conceded, I think, that for the
vast majority of herbaceous perennials
and the greatest variety of soils there is
no season of the year more suitable for
planting than that of early spring. It
is as true of the seedling as it is of the
more established example, and equally so of that
older type of the last named, for which division
of the rootstock in conjunction with transplanting
are essential if the plant is to give of its best.
It is true, too, from the propagator's point of
view, inasmuch as it is at that season of the
year that the majority of her-
baceous perennials, starting root
and branch anew, also develop,
if opportunity is afforded for so
doing, a proportionate number
of the latent eyes or buds which
may be found about the bases of
the stems, it may be of Torch
Lily, Tufted Pansy, Delphinium,
Michaelmas Daisy, Pyrethrum
or many another besides. Left
to themselves in undivided clumps,
these same buds are either crowded
out of existence altogether or go to
swell that little forest of weakly-
growths more common, happily,
in clumps of herbaceous border
plants a decade or two ago than
they are to-day. Thus it would
appear that cultivators generally
are moving in a right direction,
and that amateurs, realising how to
make the most of things, are
also prepared to cultivate their
border flowers on more rational
lines than hitherto. In former
times it was no uncommon thing
to see great mat-like swards of
the Michaelmas Daisy occupying
a border, the nearly bare stems
and inadequate floral display but
the net result of starvation — the
exacting toll of neglect. To-day
we know that these same plants
merit annual or biennial division
and transplanting, giving, some
thirty, some lifty, some a hundred
fold of their flowers, as the result
of the cultivation bestowed. In
principle the same is true of other
plants — Phlox, Sunflower, Hele-
nium, Campanula, Day Lily and
the like — and the measure of their
success at flowering-time will be also that of the
cultivation — or lack of it — they receive ; hence
the desire for timely action.
Preparing the Border. — At all times a well-
prepared border is essential to success. Such
preparation is more easy of accomplishment
in the case of a new border where trenching and
manuring can be done in advance, and without
such hindrance or interruption as is inseparable
from a border not destined for complete over-
hauling. So much, however, might be advanced
in favour of the latter, and so good the results,
that in all cases where possible it is worth pur-
suing. All the same, there are many things —
Phlox, Pyrethrum, Potentilla, Japanese Anemone,
Delphinium, Day Lily nnd P.-BC.ny, to name but a
few — that are infinitely better i! left for two,
three, or even a greater number nf years, and to
these the importance of a well-prepared border
at the outset cannot well be overestimated.
In the case of heavy soils, the addition of grit
and leaf-soil will assist drainage, just as a free
addition of lime will assist porosity and do other
important work. For light soils the manure
should be introduced low down, where later it
may play the part of a cool retreat — a sponge —
for the root? in the e\ent ol dry weather.
The Big Clump Fallacy. — Elsewhere I have
written of the " Fallacy of the big clump," and
it is worth repeating here. In short, the big
clmnp of Pffiony, Michaelmas Daisy. Lenten or
Christmas Rose, Iris, Pvrethrum, or what vovi
forks are infinitely more safe, in tliat either can
be directed to any point of the plant's anatomy
at the will of the operator. In this way solid
clumps — Trollius or Pyrethrum — first bereft ol
soil by washing or otherwise, can be reduced to
quite small divisions with impunit}-. So, too, can
larger-growing subjects, as Iris Isvigata and
others. In the case of Flag Irises, all that the
planter has need of is the most recently formed
rhizome with its growing crown attached.
The Michaelmas Daisies of the Novi-Belgii
set separate readily with the hand, while those
of the Novae-Angliffi group, being more woody,
are best wrenched asunder by means of hand-
forks. On the other hand, the closer-growing
rootstock^ of such as ericoides and cordifolius sub-
mit to careful division with a knife,
and many other instances might
be given. The whole object of divi-
sion is reinvigoration, and the most
youthful pieces — the fittest — are
all the gardener need bother about,
planting these with a free hand in
groups to give immediate effect.
Some Useful Plants for Cut-
ting.— There is ever a demand for
flowers in the cut state, and
the followfng is a selection : Single
Pyrethrums Hamlet (pink) and
Tames Kelway (crimson) ; double,
Ne Plus LUtra (pale pink). Aphro-
dite (white) and Pericles (yellow) ;
.\sters Amellus, ericoides Desire,
cordifolius in variety and Beauty
of Colwall ; Irises pallida, aurea,
Mrs. Darwin and Dr. Bemice ;
Galegas in white and mauve, white
Everlasting Pea, Gaillardias, double
and single flowered Gypsophila
paniculata, Aquilegia chrysantha,
.Alstroemeria aurantiaca. Cam-
panula persicifolia in variety,
Montbretias, Scabiosa caucasica.
Lupines, Rudbeckias and
Heleniums. E. H. Jenkis's.
I
A WELL-GROWN PLANT OF LUPINUS POLYPHYLLUS, A
PERENNIAL FOR CUTTING.
will, is to the planter a delusion and a snare ;
a youthful specimen is capable of much better
work. The obvious reason of this is that the
youthful plant has unlimited opportunities for
development, while the big clump, with its score
or so of crowns, can only develop a tithe of them
and root fibres pro rata ; hence the fallacy.
The Spade-Divided Clump is almost as bad
as the last ; plays " second fiddle " to it, in fact,
in that it retains the feebler crowns of the plant,
which, together with the woody portion inseparable
therefrom, would be doing greater service for the
garden by creating potash d la bonfire. Moreover,
the spade as a tool for dividing plants is a
cumbrous, ofttimes a dangerous thing. A
strong pruning-knife or a couple of hand-
VIOLETTAS.
(MINIATURE -FLOWERED
VIOLAS.)
T is many years since the late
Dr. Charles Stuart, M.D., of
Chirnside, Berwickshire, suc-
ceeded in raising the first of
this beautiful race of hardy
plants. From quite reliable
USEFUL information it appears that this en-
thusiastic botanist and florist began
his original work so early as
the year- 1874. In that year he took pollen
from a garden Pansy named Blue King, a
well-known bedding variety at that period,
and applied it to the pistil of Viola cornuta,
a Pyreuean species. The cross was quite success-
ful, and in due course a podful of seed subse-
quently produced twelve plants. When these
plants came into flower, they were all blue in
colour ; but, what was most important, each
plant h.ad a good tufted habit. Subsequently,
in later years, the flowers of the first cross were
fertilised with pollen from a pink garden Pansy,
and a measure of success attended this etlorl.
The resulting seedlings gave flowers of more
variety in colour and still the same very desirable
tufted habit of growth, showing olearlv the
March 14, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
129
influence of V. curnuta. These plants
were propagated and sent to the Royal
Horticultural Society's Gardens at
Chiswick for trial, where they gained no
fewer than six first-class certificates at
the hands of the floral committee, who
recognised in the growth of these plants
something entirely different from all that
other growers had sent in for trial. At a
later period Dr. Stuait, when looldng
through his seed-beds one day, espied
what he had long been looking for, viz.,
a flower without rays in the centre,
which was a pure white rayless self. This
was in the year 1887 — Queen Victoria's
Jubilee. The plant was forthwith pulled
to pieces, and, in the words of the raiser,
" every bit propagated." A notable
fact recorded at that period was that the
blossoms were beautifully fragrant, and
this is not the least of the attractive
characteristics of these plants. The fore-
going is a true history of the Violettas,
the original of which was a more or less
chance seedling, the result of a series of
crosses that it is impossible to very defi-
nitely trace. There are persons who are
disposed to question the origin of this
charming type of these beautiful hardy
flowers, in which attention is called to
the fact that the original cross was made
in 1874, and that " Violetta " did not
appear until 1887 — thirteen years after. A
Lovers of the hardy flower garden
will always be indebted to the late
Dr. Stuart for what he did for the Violas and
many other beautiful plants, such as the Poly-
anthuses and the Aquilegias.. Between the year
of the introduction of Violetta and the seasons
of 1896 and 1897 Dr. Stuart raised several very
beautiful additions to this new type, few of which,
unfortunately, are to be found in the lists of the
Viola specialists of to-day. The reason for this,
I am disposed to believe,
is largely due to the fact
that comparatively few
growers were prepared to
give them their proper
place in the garden. They
could hardly be regarded
as rivals to the large-
flowered Violas that are
now so extensively grown
in all hardy flower gar-
dens worthy of the name.
A few sorts like the
original variety are
vigorous and spreading
in their character of
growth, and free-flower-
ing withal. The
majority, however, are
less robust, yet suffi-
ciently hardy to justify
a position less trying
than an ordinary open
border or bed in exposed
positions. A much
better position for them
was found in the rock
garden, where slightly
sheltered quarters could
be afforded the plants
during the heat of
the middav sun m the
YOUNG SEEDLING VIOLETTA
PANSY.
OR MINIATURE
height of the summer. Here they were found
to luxuriate, making these quarters bright and
beautiful with a profuse display, when so many
other occupants of the rock garden had lost
their beauty and interest. These plants usually
come into flower in April, and continue to blossom
quite freely until the early autumn. One of our
greatest authorities on hardy flowers, to whom
ANOTHER SEEDLING
VIOLETTA AT A LATER STAGE.
STURDY FLOWERS.
1 submitted a number of my newer
scedhng Violettas last season, proposes
to call these miniature-flowered Violas
" Fairy Pansies," a very charming
description of these dainty little flowers.
He is of the opinion that the plants
want cool soil and situations, and
would probably thrive on the new
moraines which people are making for
all the smaller alpine' flowers. I am of
the same opinion, although ray plants
are flowered in ordinary nursery beds
exposed to the sun's influence from
early morning until sunset. Positions
that suit the beautiful Grecian Violet
(Viola gracilis) will answer the needs of
the Violettas admirably. I have seen
this attractive Grecian species growing
in wonderfully vigorous fashion in a
small moraine, the moraine soil con-
sisting of the free use of sandstone
chips and good, open soil. Such
quarters should be ideal for the
Violettas. The latter should be planted
in small colonies, in order to obtain
quick results. The plants are always
rather small when distributed, but they
very soon make beautiful little tufts
6 inches to a foot in diameter, which
are freely studded with dainty little
rayless blossoms.
The Viola Conference «of 1894
laid down rules to define the ideal
properties of the miniature-flowered
type, which, briefly, are as follow :
Form may be narrow and more oval, the petals
smooth and of good substance. The colour should
be bright, clear and strildng. The eye should
be bright gold or orange, and may run into the
under petal, and the flowers nmst be rayless.
The flowers should be sweet-scented. As regards
size, I J inches in diameter is considered the
maximum ; and in regard to habit of growth,
the plants should be
dwarf and procumbent,
short-jointed and bushy,
and flower-stalks of such
length as will bring the
flowers well together.
Since the foregoing
properties were defined,
there have been develop-
ments with these plants,
and the newer intro-
ductions are varied in
several particulars, but
not in any way to the
detriment of the type ;
rather the reverse.
A few sorts worthy of
special mention are the
following : Eileen, mauve
blue, very free and
reliable ; Cynthia, pale
blush lilac ; Sweetness,
blush white ; Vestal,
white ; Rock Lemon,
primrose ; Rock Yellow,
bright yellow, richer
lower petal ; Rock
Orange, orange yellow ;
Estelle, minute white,
flushed yellow ; Diana,
primrose ; Rock Blue,
deep mauve blue ; Molly,
NOTE ITS COMPACT HABIT AND
130
THE GARDEN.
[March 14, 1914.
rich ypllow, ideal form ; Grace, white ; Queenie.
hlush : Dainty, pale mauve blue ; Ina, deep
mauve blue ; Lavinia, blush Ia\'ender ; Butterfly,
lower petals rich yellow, upper petals pale yellow ;
and the tj'pe. There are many other good things
ui which httle is yet known, but the aforementioned
varieties should make a most interesting collection.
Htghgate. N. D. B. Crane.
ROSE-GROWING IN TOWN
GARDENS.
Tea Roses. — Success with many of the Tea
Roses is almost as much a matter of climate as
of cultivation, and the inexperienced gardener
wUl be well advised to commence with a few
only of the hardier sorts. There are several
strong-growing varieties which succeed well in
most townis, and, on account of their fine qualities
and continuity of flowering, these are of the
greatest value, both for exhibiting and for decora-
tion. It frequently happens that, by reason of
its surroundings, a town garden is particularly
sheltered, and Teas may be grown with some
success ; but they should always be placed in a
position that will secure their protection from
north or north-east winds, while giving them a
full share of sunshine. Some kinds, such as the
Cochets and Souvenir de Pierre Notting, %vhich
are mild^'-proof, may be grown with advantage
against a wall or fence having a southerly aspect.
The Best Soil. — ^Teas prefer soil that is lighter
and warmer than is suitable for most other varie-
ties, and a somewhat sandy loam liberallj' enriched
with cow-manure forms an excellent staple.
Heavy clay soils, which are naturally cold, need
to be lightened considerably, and a quantity of
leaf-mould should be added, as well as stable
manure and road scrapings or other material.
Many of the more vigorous kinds succeed well
on standard stocks ; but it must be remembered
that when grown in this way it is the roots of the
Briar which have to be catered for, so that they
will do best in a heavier soil.
Flowers Not Opening. — One of the difficulties
in growing Tea Roses is in getting the flowers
to open, and there are two chief factors to success
in this. The first is to maintain the plants in a
healthy and vigorous condition, for a Rose that
is a bad opener will seldom expand its blooms
when the growths are weak. A great deal may
be done to obviate this at pruning-time by cutting
back to sound, plump eyes, and subsequently
conserving the energy of the plant by rubbing
out a nmnber of the weakest buds. This should
be done before the end of April. The second
point is to protect the blooms during the opening
stages, the usual method, and the easiest, being
to place a Rose shade over each one. A more
useful protection would be a light, glazed framework
consisting of top and front only, which could be
quickly placed and adjusted over any plant and
as easily removed. One wonders that some
enterprising horticultural builder has not already
evolved such a contrivance, which would be
invaluable to the exhibitor.
Easily Grown Teas for Bedding are Corallina,
coral red ; G. Nabonnand, flesh, shaded rose ;
Lady Hillingdon, bright golden yellow ; and
Mme. Antoine Mari, blush white. Those who
prefer larger flowers should try the following
kinds : Lady Roberts, buff, with orange and
copper base ; Maman Cochet, flesh, shaded yellow
and rose ; White Maman Cochet, pale lemon ;
Mme. Jules Gravereaux, a serai-climbing variety,
yellow, suffused pale pink ; Molly Sharman
Crawford, eau de nil white ; and Mrs. Foley
Hobbs, ivory white. Exhibitors will find many
other Teas of great assistance, especially for
autumn shows, some of the finest being Alexander
Hill Gray, lemon yellow ; Mrs. Herbert Stevens,
white ; Mrs. Edward Mawley, pink ; Mrs. Myles
Kennedy, creamy white ; Mme. Constant Soupert,
deep yellow, shaded peach ; and Souvenir de
Pierre Notting, apricot yellow. There is now a
strong-growing chmbing form of the last named,
which, I understand, is a great improvement
upon the dwarf variety and opens better. Climbing
White Maman Cochet has also found its way
to this country, and is sure to become a
favourite when it can be obtained at a popular
price, as it makes an ideal climber for a south
wall. P- I- GODDARD.
THE LATE PLANTING OF
ROSES.
PERHAPS there is no greater fallacy
entertained by the man in the street
than that regarding planting Roses
in late spring. People have re-
marked to me, even in February,
" I should like to plant some Roses,
but 1 fear it is too late." I have, fortunately,
been able to show them beds of Roses planted
even in April that quickly dispelled such an idea
from their minds.
Excepting for special circumstances, I do not
wish readers to infer that spring planting is pre-
ferred to autumn planting, as that would be going
against all experience of practical men ; but I
do say that no one need hesitate to plant Roses
now, and for another month to come, with a
certainty of a fine display this year.
Some Advantages of spring planting may
briefly be stated. First, as regards tender varie-
ties, late planting is undoubtedly in their favour.
The producer has means of protecting such Roses,
even if we experience severe weather ; whereas,
if the amateur plants them in his garden, the
chances are they would be lost. Doubtless many
readers of The Garden live in especially cold
and wet districts. If that is so, they wUl do well
to defer their planting until spring. I do
not say one should defer ordering, but I would
suggest, rather, that the plants be procured and
" heeled " in the soil in a shady, sheltered
spot, there to remain until all signs of winter
are past.
Anotlier Advantage of planting late is that
our Roses are largely enabled to escape May
frosts. These, as is well known, cause much
havoc among the excitable Roses, such as the
Teas and some of the Hybrid Teas ; but if their
growths are retarded by late planting they do not
suffer, or, even if they do, it is of very little
moment. Then, again, a modern Rose garden
is frequently in full beauty in October, and how
can one think of alterations while such a show
of bloom abounds ! Are we not prone to wait
until the winter evenings before we formulate
our plans of renewal or extension ? There is
yet one more advantage that may find favour with
some individuals, and that is the fact of tempting
bargains being offered by our Rose-growers in
the spring months, a detail that will appeal to
many. To make late planting successful, one
must be extra careful of the
Preparation of the Soil. We often see the
ad\'ice given to amateurs to trench their soil u>
the autumn, even if they cannot plant imtil the
spring. This might be sound advice for those
having a light soil, but for clayey loams it is a
bad practice. I have found it much more prefer-
able on my heavy soil to wait until such time
as I am ready for planting. Thus, instead of
having the beds or borders saturated with the
winter rain and snow, by waiting until a favour-
able moment for the preparation one may trench,
and the planting follow immediately before the
soil has a chance of becoming saturated. Nothing
is so inimical to successful Rose culture as to be
obliged to plant when the ground is of the
consistency of soft putty.
Preparation o£ the Plants. — It is important
that Roses planted late should be pruned back
hard either before or immediately after planting.
It is also advisable that they should be in a dormant
condition. Many growers dig up the plants and
place them in beds, and they are kept moved, so
that when sent out the eyes are dormant. At all
times when planting Roses a shovelful of nice
compost should be given to each plant, as this,
being of a fine nature, will percolate among the
fine roots, and if the latter are dipped in a bucket
of water first and some of this fine soil is dredged
upon them, successful planting is practically
assured.
Firm Planting is another very imperative
detail. Not only should the soil be made firm
at the time of planting, but, a week after, it is well
to go over them again and set the heel against
each plant. I would also advise that before
placing the final covering of soil, a good watering
should be given ; then, after the water has been
allowed to pass down, the final soil placed in
position, but no treading of the soil should follow
at the time. .Although I am averse to mulching
Roses planted in the autumn, I strongly advise
a thin covering of well-rotted manure being applied
immediately after the spring planting, partly to
prevent that cracking of the soil by the drying
winds of spring and partly to conserve the moisture.
Peat moss litter would come in very useful here
if not too strong. I fear many Roses are destroyed
by giving them mulchings of strong manures
before they have had time to establish themselves.
On no account should powerful chemical manures
be so applied.
How Late May One Plant. — This depends
largely upon the season, but, generally speaking,
Roses from the open ground may be planted as
late as the middle of April. After this time
pot-grown plants shoidd be employed. It is an
excellent plan, if beds of a kind are planted, to
pot up a few reserve plants of each sort, in case
of failures. Such pot plants may be sunk in the
soil in their pots, and will prevent one having
gaps in the Rose-beds during the summer. If
any readers are contemplating exhibiting blooms
from spring-planted Roses, I must warn them of
probable disappointment ; but for all who desire
a beautiful display for their garden, and especially
for the coming autumn, I can assure them they
will be well pleased if the foregoing details are
followed. Reasonable care is, of course, necessary,
but I think I have made it clear that those who
wish to do so may safely plant beds of Roses
during the next few weeks. Daneckoft.
March 14, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
131
HARDY HEATHS.
RETURNING to a subject which I
some time ago endeavoured through
the pages of The Garden, to bring
as prominently as I could under the
notice of its readers, I must, in the
first place, admit that in the interval
I have learned that hardy Heaths are by no means
so fastidious in regard to soil and situation as
was at one time thought ; indeed, from several
letters I received appreciative of my former
effort, the writers informed me that in their
cases, and contrary to my advice, ■ they found
many varieties of Heaths thriving well in stiff,
heavy soils. One in particular, who seemed to,
possess a large and full collection, assured me that
his soil was a heavy, clayey one, and that the
plants were thriving luxuriantly. I may here
say that all my correspondents
wrote from the Southern Counties
of .England, so that, from the
evidence given, one need not be
deterred from forming a Heath
garden simply because he does not
possess a light, sandy soil or
facilities for making a compost of
peat resembling the soil in which
these plants are generally found
growing in their native habitat.
The only drawback in regard to
heavy soils would be that pro-
pagation could not be so easily
effected, and that a thorough
system of drainage would require
to be carried out before any
measure of success could be at-
tained. If we study for a short
time the habits of our native
Heather, Erica or Calluna vulgaris,
it will be found growing both on
the dry hillsides and in marshy
places. In the latter, however,
the Heather is always patchy and
confined to little knolls over the
bog. As we ascend, however, the
plant becomes more scraggy and
stunted, until, among bare, dry
rocks, it ceases to gain a foothold,
and fringes off with an odd plant
here and there, attaining a height
of only a few inches.
On the upland flats, at a
moderate elevation, where a good
depth of black, peaty soil is found, one can
wade through the Heather almost waist deep,
showing that here are to be seen the most favour-
able conditions for its growth, and those that must
be copied to a certain extent if a full measure
of success is expected. It is often a difficult matter
to select a suitable position for the Heath garden,
especially if the existing arrangements are of a
formal character. It cannot very well be associated
with beds of brilliant-flowering subjects such
as are usually designated bedding-out plants,
neither can these plants be dotted or clumped
effectively in the herbaceous border. I have
seen them, however, used with a fair measure
of success on the margins of a large shrubbery,
where they were quite in harmony with the flower-
ing shrubs, and at another time on the boimdary
line of an extensive rockery, where they were
planted in groups with a huge, natural-looking
boulder peeping out here and there, the whole
arrangement being so cleverly executed that it
was difficult to decide what really intervened
between the actual rock garden with its alpine
occupants and the wooded slope beyond ; but
there are few places where a suitable spot could
not be found for planting a collection of hardy
Heaths. It may be abutting on some woodland
walk, in an open glade surrounded by trees, or
enclosed with a hedge having a rustic summer-
house in one corner, or on a steep, sloping bank
where the plants can be viewed either from a high
or a low level. They must, however, have an
open, airy situation and be free from the shade
or influence of large trees. If the soil is poor,
it can be improved by the addition of manure and
leaf-mould, for while the Heath will grow and
flower well on thin and almost barren soils, it
responds readily to a more generous fare, and
to ensure success it is advisable to provide a suit-
able compost. Thus, a rich, heavy soil should
THE SNAPDRAGON AS A
GARDEN PLANT.
FOR a long period in the nineteenth
century the Snapdragon was regarded
as a florist's flower, striped or barred,
of which the finest form was one named
Hendersonii. At the same time there
was a strain now merged in the inter-
mediate section, which was utilised in the furnish-
ing of flower-beds, especially in those districts in
which, owing to climatic disabilities, Geraniums
could not be profitably employed. The finest of
all the crimsons is still one that originated at Lord
Ravensworth's very many years ago. Queen of
the North and Yellow Perfection are varieties
which also have been in cultivation for a lengthened
period ; but the aesthetic colours, both in the tall
and in the intermediate sections, which have
A HEATH GARDE>1 ON A HtLL SIDE.
have a considerable quantity of peat, leaf-mould
and sand added and thoroughly mixed together.
Light, sandy soils will only require the addition
of a good dressing of well-decayed farmyard
manure, but an open position is desirable what-
ever the soil may be.
The numerous and varied forms of hardy Heaths,
their hardiness and long season of flowering,
covering as it does almost every month of the
year, entitle them to more than passing notice,
and I hope that the present fashion for creating
rock gardens will soon extend itself so as to embrace
Heath gardens as well, the conditions as to
site and exposure suitable for rock gardening
being easily adapted to the requirements for
forming a Heath garden. In my next article I
propose dealing with a Heath garden at present
in course of construction in the heart of the
Grampians. Thomas Wilson.
(To be continued.)
made the Antirrhinums so popular, are wholly,
or almost wholly, the production of the present
century.
There exists a certain degree of dissimilarity in
the habit, and also in the flowers, of both of these
sections, some of the intermediates being so tall
as to almost merge into the tall section, of which
there are varieties of comparatively low stature
and weak constitution. There are in the flowers,
broadly, two types, the one rather small and
narrow, the other broad and about three times
larger, and these, too, are of the tallest growth,
sometimes attaining a height of 6 feet and even
7 feet, the white and yellow being, perhaps, the
most vigorous of all. Along with the Tom Thumb
section we have, therefore, a choice of Snap-
dragons ranging in height from 6 inches to as many
feet, with a marked dissimilarity of habit, and,
along with a charming range of colours, a certain
diversity of form.
132
THE GARDEN.
[March 14, 1914
Raising Plants. — The plants are so easy of pro-
duction that it need only be said that seeds for
flowering the same year may be sown any time up
to March, providing a smart temperature for
germination is given, and afterwards growing them
comparatively cool. The seedlings are apt to
damp if wetted when small ; therefore, dipping
the receptacles in water must be resorted to when
the soil requires moistening, and, if damping occurs,
some fire-dried sand should be sprinkled over the
surfaces, which checks and usually stops the trouble.
Pricking out the seedlings when quite small into
boxes or frames also stays the progress of the
mischief. At this stage the leaves of every plant
should be examined, best on the under sides, and
all rejected which vary from
the majority, because the plants
assuredly will, on flowering, turn
out to be " rogues," and, of
course, when planting in beds,
any that have escaped notice at
this examination will be set aside
then.
Varieties, or at least names,
have increased to a perplexingly
large extent within the last year
or two, and for the beginner in
their use it would be desirable
to purchase from one seedsman
only. I am growing this year
some two dozen kinds of inter-
mediate and tall derived from
different sources, but most are
well known already, and the
remainder will be planted where
any disabilities they may de-
velop will not affect the general
appearance of the garden. But
no one can go wrong with, in
tall varieties, White, Cloth of
Gold, Golden Chamois, Fire King
(or Orange King), Carmine Pink,
Crimson and Gold, and Rosy
Morn. These, I think, are the
cream, though Moonlight, if pro-
perly associated, may also be
added. I know of no very good
crimson, and grow crimson, scarlet,
rose and a cream form of Rosy
Morn from cuttings, none of these
coming true enough from seed
to give satisfaction. Of inter-
mediates are Yellow Queen,
Queen of the North (white). Car-
mine Pink, and any pink, indeed,
is worth growing, Bonfire (apri-
cot), Light Apricot, Fire King
(brighter than Orange King) and
Oliver's Crimson, if it can be
obtained. It should be noted
that a gxoup of the old florists'
type of variegated flowers is by no means to
be despised.
Arrangements of Colours. — Though easy
enough to produce. Snapdragons are not quite so
easy to arrange to be effective. This is on account
of the colours clashing when a number are
employed indiscriminately, or when associated
with plants with which the colours do not go well.
The tall white, with Dropmore Anchusa or Salvia
patens, is really splendid, and Cloth of Gold
associates equally well with Anchusa Opal, Golden
Chamois and the dark blue Branching Larkspur,
or with Lobelia cardinalis varieties is strikingly
beautiful, while all the pink shades go with yellow,
orange and mauve. But Snapdragons are never
more charming than when used by themselves in
colours properly matched. My own rule is to
detach ptire white and yellow from the others ; not
that they cannot be associated effectively enough,
but I do not think they add anything to composi-
tions equally, if not more, effective when either is
absent ; but that, of course, may be a mere
personal whim. Tall Golden Chamois, Carmine Pink
and Light Pink with the intermediate Carmine
Pink provide a very lovely combination. So
do the apricot shades with Fire King, both tall '
and intermediate, and the series of pink shades
along with the apricots is very nice, though I am
rather dubious if the deep apricot of Bonfire were
COLOURED PLATE.
PLATE 1489.
A NEW PERPETUAL-FLOWERING
CARNATION.
THE new Perpetual-flowering Carnation
Gorgeous must be considered an
epoch-making variety, for all who
have seen it have been enraptured
with it. It has a strong, clean,
healthy growth, a wonderful stem,
and a calyx which rarely bursts. The colour is
of a rich glowing cerise n-ith the clearness of
Aristocrat, but with none of this variety's weakness
in its young state. When the flower is about
half open, it has a yellowish,
glistening sheen on its petals, which
'^^ gives it a sunray cerise tone, and
^ under artificial light it stands
alone for the brightness of its
colourings, giving way to a glowing
scarlet ; in short, we might quote
a passage from Charles Kingsley's
" Westward Ho " : " There is
nothing like it under the canopy
of Heaven." It has come to stop,
and will be what Enchantress has
been in the past. The honours
awarded to this variety are an
award of merit from the Perpetual
Flowering Carnation Society, an
award of merit from the Royal
Horticultural Society, and certifi-
cates of merit at Liverpool and
Bristol. We are indebted to
Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Bush
Hill Park, Enfield, for the flowers
from which our coloured plate has
been prepared.
SPRING SNOWFLAKES.
One of the most delightful flowers
now to be seen in the Royal Horti-
cultural Society's Gardens at
Wisley is the Spring Snowflake
(Leucojum venium). It has
naturalised itself in many places,
and may be seen flowering among
the Crocuses and Polyanthuses in
the borders, or producing its
drooping, bell-shaped flowers in
out-of-the-way parts of the wild
garden. One of the most pleasing
effects is a carpet of Snowflakes
flowering freely under the bare
canes of a cultivated Rubus.
CARPET OF SPRING
SNOWFLAKE
WISLEY.
(leucojum vernum) at
not better left out. As a rule, beds or borders
furnished with Snapdragons should be filled entirely
with them, an edge of another kind of plant always
detracting from the value of the colour mass as a
whole.
I should add that, although we have Snap-
dragons thriving on walls, to do them well requires
very thorough and good cultivation. The finest I
have ever seen were in Herefordshire, growing in
made-up beds of turf and loam, in which some of
the spikes rose to a height of 7 feet. A pigmy
of 2 feet or 3 feet compared to these is simply
nowhere, although it might perhaps appeal
to some. R. P. Brotherston.
CHINA ASTERS IN THE
WOODLAND.
The illustration on page 133
shows a picturesque grouping
of the China Aster naturalised in grass under
the partial shade of trees. The means whereby
this effect was produced are somewhat curious,
as it was the result of accidental sowing. The
ground under the trees had been cleared and dug
over preparatory to sowing it down with grass.
By a misunderstanding among the workers,
both grass and Aster seeds were sown over the
same patch of ground. The result, however,
is so pleasing and natural that it is worth noting,
as it is a simple way of converting a waste piece
of ground into a place of unusual splendour.
The Asters were sown in .^pril, and flowered
well through .August and September.
Siif^f)leiiiciit to THE GARDEN, Ma)xli 14//1, 19 14,
NEW PERPETUAL FLOWERING CARNATION GORGEOUS
Hudson & Keartis Ltd.. Priniers, London, S.E.
March 14, 1914-]
THE GARDEN.
133
SIX BEAUTIFUL DWARF
ANNUALS.
A LTHOUGH the widely cultivated Stocks
/% and Asters are very beautiful, I
/ % often wonder that some of the other
/ % half-hardy annuals are not more
J^ *■ often met with in quantity. There
seems to be in many quarters an
antipathy against trying anything new, and the
result is that we come across the same kinds of
flowers year after year in gardens ; whereas, by
having a little more variety, a much more inter-
esting.^display would be forthcoming. The six
kindsfl have selected are such as one seldom sees
ture imtil growth is well started and the weather
fairly settled, when they should be removed
to a cold frame. Give abundance of air and
harden ofi by the middle of May, when they ought
to be planted out in fairly rich soil and in a sunny
position. While all these annual (or biennial
should I say ?) Pinks are beautiful and useful,
I, personally, prefer a good strain of the Hedde-
wigii type. Single and double are equally worthy
of extended cultivation, and no garden should
be without them.
Dimorphotheca aurantiaca. — This compara-
tively new plant, introduced from South Africa
by Messrs. Barr, is a most telling bedder in a sunny
season. I have grown it every year since its
introduction, and it never fails to draw attention
little else will grow, but it should have a position
in full sunshine if it is to give of its best.
Larkspur. — Although the dwarf forms of this
grand plant can never compare with the tall,
branching kinds, still, they are very valuable
for small beds and for small gardens where space
is at a premium. The dwarf Rocket Larkspur
is so cheap that the seed may be sown where the
plants are to bloom, and can then be thinned out
to 4 inches or 5 inches apart. The dwarf Stock-
flowered type is worth the trouble of raising in
boxes and being treated like a half-hardy annual.
Sow towards the end of March, for if raised too
early the plants are apt to become unhealthy
before the weather is favoxrrable for planting them
out. Fairly rich, well-tilled soil should be given
SINGLE CHINESE ASTERS IN AN OPEN WOODLAND. THESE' WERE THE RESULT OF ACCIDENTAL SOWING.
in quantity in any garden, and it is in the hope
of arousing a little interest in these beautiful
flowers that I now write. I refer to Dianthus,
Dimorphotheca, Jacobea, Larkspur, Nemesia and
Phlox Drummondii.
Dianthus (Pinks). — The Indian and Japanese
Pinks, when a good strain is obtained and well
grown, are hard to beat for filling small beds
or borders and for cut flowers. Seed should be
sown thinly in pans or boxes early in March and
placed in gentle heat. The seeds germinate
very rapidly, and care must be taken to prevent
the little plants becoming drawn and weakly.
Prick off into boxes of good soil as soon as large
enough to handle, and return to the same tempera-
from all visitors. Those who like mixed colours
should grow the new hybrids, for they give some
pretty shades besides white. Seed should not
be sown before the middle of March, and the end of
that month is not too late for it. Treat it exactly
like Stocks in the way of sowing, pricking off, and
subsequent treatment. Plant out at the end of
May in good soil and in the sunniest spot available.
Jacobea. — This Groundsel is usually classed
as a hardy annual, but here in Scotland I find
much the best results are obtained by treating
it as half-hardy. Sow at the end of March,
plant out towards the end of May in rather poor
soil, and a really fine display of bloom will be
forthcoming. This plant will often thrive where
this plant, and if the position is exposed and
staking necessary, then place the stakes at planting-
time, for the roots of these Larkspurs are very
easily damaged.
Nemesia. — ^This is without a doubt the most
beautiful of all dwarf annual flowers, and should
be much more widely cultivated than it is at
present. Many sow the seeds much too early, and
also place the seed-pans in too high a temperature.
Nemesia seeds will not germinate strongly nor
freely in a temperature much over 60°, and the
last week in March is the best time for sowing.
Prick of! into boxes of fairly good soil and in good
time, and do this with extra care, for the Nemesia
in its earlier stages is rather delicate. When it
134
THE GARDEN.
[March 14, 1914.
starts fairly into growth, after being pricked off,
all danger is past, and the plants should be kept
near the glass in a moderate temperature. At
the beginning of May remove to a cold frame,
harden off gradually, and plant out early in June,
choosing rich, deeply dug soil and a sunny aspect.
WhUe the large-flowered form is verv rich and '
ROCK GARDEN PLANTS
FROM SEED.
A BRAN'CH of gardening alike interesting and
profitable, and having special attractions for the
amateur, whose delight it is to garden among
rock plants, is found in raising these and kindred
THYMUS ODORATJSSIMUS, A FRAGRANT PLANT FROM RUSSIA. THYMES ARE EXCELLENT
FOR THE ROCK GARDEN AND MAY BE RAISED FROM SEED SOWN NOW.
beautiful, I much prefer the dwarf hybrid strain
of Messrs. Sutton. This firm has greatly improved
the colours of this section of late years, and a bed
or border filled with this grand Nemesia takes
some beating. The plants branch so freely that
about twelve inches asunder is the proper
distance to plant if a really effective display
is aimed at. The large-flowered type must
be planted much closer, say, from 7 inches to
9 inches-
Phlox DTUmmondU. — When well grown, this
is only second to the Nemesia for beauty and
effectiveness. The seed should be sown during
the last week in February or early in March, and
be gTo\vn steadily on in a slight warmth until the
plants have reached a fair size. Phlox Drum-
mondii is well known to be one of the easiest of
all annuals to cultivate. Even in town gardens
it will succeed, while it is usually one ot the
first subjects to bring to the notice of children
who show a fondness for garden flowers. Never-
theless seed must be sown thinly and thinned
early. For filling small beds or for making an
edging for taller plants they are equally effective.
Soil of a fairly rich nature gives the best
results. All the sections are good, but for general
usefulness the intermediate is preferable. If a
really fine strain of this is procured, a grand
display is certain. C. Blair.
Preston House Gardens, Linlithgow.
subjects from seed. It is hardly possible to overrate
the amount of healthy recreation this delightful
pursuit affords ; it yields an enormous amount of
information that cannot be acquired otherwise,
while it furnishes a splendid stock of plants,
either as the nucleus of a collection or for
augumenting that already in existence. The actual
procedure in the raising of alpines from seed does
not materially differ from that practised with
the choicer kinds of annuals of a tender or half-
hardy nature, except that they entail more atten-
tion to details in the initial stages.
Best Time for Sowing. — The spring months
offer the best season in which to start, as this
gives a long growing season and enables plants
of a presentable size to be obtained before the
ensuing winter.
Proper Soil. — The method I generally follow
is to sow in pots, pans or shallow boxes, according
to the rarity of the variety. The receptacles are
provided with liberal drainage and partly filled
with a moderately coarse compost consisting of
yellow loam, leaf-soil and sand in equal parts,
this being passed through a half-inch sieve to
complete filling the receptacles. The seed-bed
should be quite level, and, as many of the seeds
are very small, they scarcely want covering at
all, while the larger seeds, like those of Androsace,
Dianthus and Iberis, will bear covering to a depth
of an eighth of an inch.
Watering the Seeds. — To those unversed in
watering fine seeds with water-pot and rose, a safe
method to employ imtil the seedlings are large
enough to handle is to stand the pots and pans
almost to the rim in a tub of water ; by this means
the seed is not displaced, as may readily follow
from the careless use of a water-pot. After
sowing, place the seed-pans in an
ordinary greenhouse or in a frame
upon a slow hot -bed, and cover over
with a square of glass. This hastens
germination, and, as the seedlings
appear, gradually tilt the glass cover
ing to admit air till, eventually,
it can be dispensed with altogether.
Treatment of Seedlings.— Once
germination takes place, the seedlings
must be kept well to the light, and
from this stage onward an unheated
garden frame will give the best
results, using sun-heat alone to main-
tain a growing temperature. When
the seedhngs are large enough to
handle, they are pricked out into
pans or boxes, using a compost as
advised for seed-sowing, to which one
part of rough grit is added. In
pricking out and aU subsequent pot-
. ting, keep the soil moderately firm,
otherwise growth will be coarse and
sappy and the plants wUI give more
trouble in hardening them off for per-
manent planting outside. Once the
plants come to a fair size — in the case
of the more robust kinds this will be
some time in June, if sowm during
March — they may be potted singly
and then plunged in nursery rows or
in beds of coal-ashes. This method
reduces the amount of attention
necessary to keep them supplied with
moisture, and it ensures stocky, hard-
SUBJECTS grown plants, such as rarely fail to
give satisfaction when used in the
permanent scheme of the garden.
Seeds Remaining Dormant. — Many kinds of
alpines, among which Primulas, Gentians and some
Saxifrages may be cited as examples, lie dormant
some time after sowing, and where this occurs
the seed-pots must be kept nicely moist, with the
glass covering on, until either germination takes
place or it is seen that the seed is useless. Some
Primulas and Gentians, however, will germinate
after being sown twelve months. Ramondia is
typical of a class of alpine that exacts much care
the first season ; the seed is so small that the
tendency is to sow too thickly, and, as it is usually
several months before it is even possible to pick
up the seedlings, much less handle them, the
necessity for sowing thinly becomes obvious.
The great majority of the rock and alpine
plants that can be raised from seed will flower
in the year following that in which they
were sown. These include .^ithionemas, Alyssum,
Androsace, Anemone, Arenaria, Aster alpinus.
Campanulas, Dianthus, Drabas, Erinus, Geranium,
Gypsophila, Hutchinsia, Hypericum, Iberis,
Leontopodium, Lithospermum, Phyteuma, Primula,
Saponaria, Sedum, Silene, Tunica, Veronica, Viola
and Wahlenbergia. Among those that do not flower
till a later period, besides the exceptions already
noted, are Lithospermum Gastoni. Ramondia,
Thymus, Gentians and Saxifragas like burseriana,
lantoscana and longifolia. Thomas Smith.
Cnnmbe Court Gardens, Kingston, Surrey.
March 14, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
135
THE JAPANESE OR CAPE
PLUMS.
CAN THEY BE GROWN IN THIS
COUNTRY ?
* MONG the foreign fruits which invade
/% our markets at the present season,
/ % one of the newest comers is the
A~'^% Cape Plum. Tliis fruit so differs
^ ^ from the Plums commonly known
in this country that many curious
. legends are current as to its origin. The matter,
however, is wrapt in no mystery and is of great
interest, as these Plums are among the newest
fruits wliich we owe to Eastern Asia, and their
culture in America is already great. The wild
species from which this race is developed is Prunus
triflora, a native of China, and its garden varieties
are there cultivated in a rather haphazard way.
When imported into Japan it gave rise to very
many new varieties, of which the nomenclature
is, unfortunatelj', very uncertain. The pointed
varieties are grouped under the name Hattankio,
and the round ones Botankio, while the general
name for these Plums as a whole is Sumomo.
Some seventy-seven varieties are named in a list
before me, a few of which are now known in
many parts of the world.
About the year 1870, American growers began
to interest themselves in this fruit, and importa-
tions were made, notably by John Kelsey of
Berkerley, Cahfomia. A perfect boom in Japanese
Plums then began, and new sorts were imported
and seedlings raised, and the nomenclature was
soon in a state of the wildest confusion. The
fruits themselves, however, prospered, and have
now become a large and important sovurce of
fruit supply in the United States. From America
they were imported to the Cape, where the climate
suits them admirably, and they thus reached our
shores by a roundabout route, gathering on the
way yet another name, " Cape "
Plums.
The principal varieties now grown
are Botan, or Abundance as it is t^
more generally known in America ;
Burbank, a Japanese variety renamed
after the much-advertised raiser of I \v\J.
fruits and flowers in California ; -- - •'
Chabot, Hale, Kelsey, Maru and
Shiro. Wickson, a large and excel- -^
lent fruit, is the result of a cross'
between P. triflora and P. Simonii,
also a native of China.
As to the adaptability of these
fruits to the English climate, experi-
ments so far lend no hope to this
possibility. Burbank has fruited
occasionally, but all the other sorts
are too tender in most places for
open-air culture unless on a wall.
The extreme earliness of the blossom
is often, too, a cause of failure, both
on account of severe weather and the
lack of insects for pollenising. It is
stated in America that the Myrobalan
(Prunus myrobalana) or Cherry Plum
is a good poUeniser for all the
Japanese Plums, and where one sort
only is grown, a plant of this would
be valuable, as it flowers at the
same time.
Under cool orchard house cul-
ture, however, these Plums succeed
admirably, and the fruit is extremely good both to
eye and palate. The best sorts for this culture are, as
far as I have tried, Burbank, a beautiful, trans-
parent, round fruit ; Botan, a pointed fruit, large,
dark red and extremely rich ; Shiro, pale creamy yel-
low, remarkably juicy ; and Wickson, an enormous,
pointed, rich crimson fruit. A remarkable feature
of all these Plums is the extraordinary amount of
blossom produced. Burbank is often so thickly
set with bloom that it is literally impossible to
see the wood for the flowers. The resulting crop,
however, is not usually more than normal.
In conclusion, these fruits can be highly recom-
mended for glass culture. They should be tried
on walls, and in the warmer parts of this island
they would probably succeed as standards or
pyramids in the open.
Maidstone. E. .-K. Bunyarp.
SEASONABLE NOTES ON
VEGETABLES.
Parsnips. — Owing to the continuous rains
during February, the sowing of Parsnip seed
was delayed. No time should now be lost in
doing this work. Deeply trenched soil that has been
previously manured for a former crop is the best.
With an iron bar make holes 3 feet deep, filling
the holes with a compost of fine gritty soil. Sow
two seeds in each hole, the holes 15 inches to
18 inches apart, the rows 2 feet wide. This method
prevents the roots becoming crooked, as they
often are in stony soil without this special
preparation.
Turnips. — Sow a pinch of seed of White Milan
in a frame on a slight hot-bed to give an early
supply of small roots. On a warm, sheltered
border sow in drills in prepared soil, also a pinch
of seed of Red Milan, as, with genial weather in
April, nice roots may soon be obtained.
Celery. — For use in August and September
seed should now be sown quite thinly in boxes
in sandy soil in a temperature of about 55°.
Directly the seedlings are up, place the boxes on
a shelf near the glass, so that the growth made
shall be of a stocky character. If the plants
become drawn owing to overcrowding or too
much heat, they are quickly ruined, and it is a
waste of time to continue their growth. Giant
White and Aldenham Pink are good varieties.
Rhubarb. — An open site, with ample space
between the roots for full leaf development, and
a deeply trenched and heavily manured soil are
the salient conditions necessary to ensure success.
Plant single crowns just under the surface 4 feet
apart, and as much or more between the rows.
After planting, fork over the ground among
the plants, and mulch lightly with half-decayed
stable manure. Royal Albert for forcing. The
Sutton for general growth, with Champagne
and Victoria for ordinary use, are desirable
varieties.
Tomatoes should be sown at intervals as space
can be found under glass for the plants. The
chief point is to avoid overcrowding. Grow the
plants near the glass to avoid weakness, and
pot on as required. Many failures with Tomatoes
in the open can be traced to faulty management
of the plants, especially in sowing too late, which
does not enable the plants to be large enough
at planting-time. The middle of March is a good
time to sow seed for outdoor growth. The plants
should be vigorous, of full size, and thoroughlv
hardy when put out. Should they show signs
of turning yellow owing to being pot-bound pre-
vious to planting, give them liquid maniure freely.
Sunrise for indoor growth and Holmes' Supreme
for outside are good. Dobbie's Golden Drop is an
excellent small-berried yellow sort for outdoors.
Spinach is such an increasingly favourite
vegetable that more encouragement should be
given it. Frequent small sowings are better than
THE CAUCASIAN CATCHFLY (SILENE SCHAFTA) GROWN FROM SEED.
136
THE GARDEN.
[March 14, 1914.
those larger and less often. On a warm, sunny
border the first sowing should be made ; after-
wards, between rows of Peas and Runner Beans.
Round-seeded and The Carter are desirable
varieties, with The Victoria for a main crop.
Potatoes. — Now is a good time to make the
first plantation of May Queen, Sharpe's Victor and
Myatt's .■\shleaf for the earliest crop. At the
foot of a south wall or on a warm, sloping border
is the best site. The tubers having been
sprouted previously in a cool place,
plant them 15 inches apart in
rows 2 feet wide, covering the
tubers with a prepared sandy
compost in which decayed leaves
figure freely. Too much attention
cannot be paid to the sprouting
of the tubers in a cool and dry
place. Neglect in this direction
may lead to disappointment.
Radishes should be con-
tinuously sown at brief intervals
in Potato, Carrot or Asparagus
forcing-frames. An outside sow-
ing on a warm border should
be made, covering the bed with
straw to encourage early germina-
tion of the seed and to protect
the tiny plants, as they peep
through the soil, from birds of the
linnet type.
Peas. — A sowing in the open
of such varieties as The Pilot,
Edwin Beckett or Sutton's Early
Giant should be made, covering
the seeds with decayed leaf-mould
or old potting soil, which encourages
quicker root action than the ordi-
nary soil, which is still cold.
Swanmore. E. Molyneux.
PEAS: CULTURAL
HINTS.
GOOD, fresh Peas are
generally a p p r e -
ciated, and every
pains should be
taken to produce
these in the best
possible condition over as long
a period as possible. Thanks to
those who have given so much
time and trouble during recent
years to hybridising and selecting
so many varieties, both early,
midseason and late, much less trouble will be ex-
perienced than was the case only a few years ago.
Undoubtedly it is much easier to have good Peas
for the table from the middle of June to the end
of the second week in July than at later dates,
and almost everyone possessing a garden has
little difficulty in having them at this season.
By the time these hues are in print the seeds
will have been sown and be well on the way for
the early crops, and my remarks on this occasion
are intended principally for successional crops.
The garden Pea is a deep-rooted subject, and
during spells of drought will penetrate deeply
in search of food and moisture if such soil be
made amenable, so that in all cases the ground
should be broken up at least 3 feet in depth,
placing plenty of good farmyard manure in the
bottom of the trench.- This work is best done
during the winter or early spring. Unquestionably j done just as thick again as it is intended for the
the best method is to prepare trenches precisely ! plants to remain, which should be thinned out
in the same way as one would for Celery, and as soon as the young plants arc 2 inches or 3 inches
especially so for late varieties and on dry, porous in height. Naturally, the strongest and tallest
soils ; the application of manure and other growing kinds require more room than those of
suitable compost is rendered much more easy, | less robust habit ; but in nearly all cases of the
as well as being much more convenient for watering better kinds of Peas the plants should not be left
purposes. Such trenches should always be pre- | thicker than 3 inches apart. Always sow two
pared, when possible, some weeks previous to the i lines in a trench, and, where mice and other
seed-sowing ; the soil thus becomes sweetened vermin abound, the seed should be rubbed in
rde lead and allowed to dry
before using. .^t the same
time, means should be taken to
trap mice or rats. It is always
wise to set some tempting baited
traps for mice, whether they
are known to exist or not.
At the time of solving, a little
bone-meal should be sprinkled
along after the seed is sown ;
this will prove a splendid stimu-
lant. Care should be taken to
protect the young growths from
the ravages of birds immediately
they appear above the ground.
This is best done by straining
tliree lines of black cotton about
four inches above the surface of
tlie ground.
Staking. — As soon as about four
inches of growth is made, staking
should be proceeded with. Though
there are several inventions for
supporting Peas, I have not yet
come across anything to super-
sede, or even equal, ordinary
brushy wood stakes. This task
should be carried out in a pleasing
and worlonanlike manner, thrust-
ing the ends well into the ground
sufficient to withstand any wind
pressure. The tops should be taken
off and placed between the stakes,
with a view to conducting the
tendrils to the larger stakes. To
ensure a regular supply during the
late summer, sowings should be
made at intervals from this date
to the middle of June.
Mulching. — I regard this as
of the greatest importance on
all kinds of soil, nothing being
better for the purpose than
short stable litter. It has a
wonderful influence, of prolong-
ing the crop, especially during
spells of dry weather.
Watering. — The plants will be much benefited
by applying frequent drenchings of water to the
roots, both clear and in a liquid maniure form,
during dry spells, always using water, if possible,
which has been exposed. It is equally as important
and beneficial to syringe or damp the growths
tlioroughly after a hot day with clean tepid water ;
this is best done in the early evening. When
extra large pods are required, either for exhibition
or other purposes, the growths should be stopped,
side shoots cut away and the pods thinned.
Varieties. — Though, as before stated, there
are many excellent varieties, I propose to give a
short list of what I believe to be among the very
best and in their order of sowing : Duke of Albany,
Prodigy, Alderman, Stourbridge Marrow, Quite
Content, Centenary, Gladstone, Rearguard, Master-
piece and Autocrat. Enwi.v Bkckett, V'.M.ll.
THE SAME BED AS SHOWN ON THE OPPOSITE PAGE, SHOWING THE
EFFECT OF SOWING CANDYTUFT BETWEEN DARWIN. TULIPS.
and in a much more workable condition than
when left till the last moment, though sometimes
this cannot be avoided owing to the ground being
occupied.
Sowing the Seed. — In the large majority of
cases the seed is sown much too thicldy, the result
being anything but satisfactory. I am convinced
that there are far more failures due to this cause
tlian to any other. In many cases one will see
rows of Peas left almost as thick as Mustard and
Cress, and expected to produce a crop. Surely if
one would only give it a thought, it is unreasonable
to expect a dozen plants to succeed when one would
suffice, the result being that the plants become
starved and in many cases eaten up with mildew,
and, after a picking or two, the plants become
exhausted. The best plan is to sow the seed
singly at regular intervals, and this should be
March 14, 191 4.]
THE GARDEN.
13^
GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.
ANNUAL FLOWERS IN ASSOCIATION WITH OTHER PLANTS.
TO tho heginner in gardening, especially
if liis or her garden is of small size,
there are few more useful flowers
than hardy annuals, and few that
will give such a bountiful return for
a small outlay of time and money.
Indeed, these annuals, which may be sown in the
open garden, may be looked upon as a sort of
sheet-anchor for the novice, to (ill up blank spaces
where perhaps some more ambitious gardening
scheme has gone awry, or to fill the hiatus caused
by the passing of spring-flowering perennials or
bulbous plants. The gardener in
a large establishment can rely upon
pot plants or nursery stock to make
good these gaps, but the beginner
can seldom afford this, and still
less frequently has the facilities
for carrying it into effect.
Too often, bulbs, especially the
May-flowering Tulips, are a source
of great worry to the amateur.
Owing to their late flowering and
subsequent ripening of the foliage,
they cannot with safety be removed
from beds or borders sufficiently
early to admit of the planting of
the ordinary bedding plants, and
for this reason many forego the
pleasure that these bulbs are
capable of providing and ban them
from their gardens. This is a
great mistake, and one that can
easily be obviated if we would
make more use of hardy annuals.
Early in April seeds of these
can be sown between the bulbous
plants, and, by the time the latter
have finished flowering and the
leaves have died down, the annuals
will be well on the road towards
the flowering stage, and the bulbs
none the worse for the association.
Even beds of Daffodils may be
successfully treated in this way,
and if the bulbs are lifted in early
autumn, before they have made
extensive new root growth, and
replanted at once, they will be in
much better condition than if they
were lifted this spring, before their
foliage had properly ripened, to
make way for the usual Fuchsias,
Calceolarias and Zonal Pelar-
goniums that are so often relied
upon for the summer display. It
is true that these bedding plants
commence to flower almost as soon
as they are planted, and that
the annuals seldom commence before July ;
but the four weeks or so that the beds or border
spaces are without blossoms is not noticed in a
garden of mixed flo%vers. It is mentioned to
prevent possible disappointment to would-be
growers of annuals.
Apart from those kinds which can be sown
between the bulbs or spring-flowering perennials,
there are many half-hardy sorts that may be
raised in frame or greenhouse and planted out
between the permanent occupants during the
early days of May. Into this category come
Antirrhinums, China .\sters, Stocks, Nemesias
and Verbenas, ail of which are capable of providing
a glorious riot of colour during the late summer
and autumn days.
There are just one or two simple cultural details
that ought to be observed if success is to be assured
with this association of annuals with perennial
and bulbous plants. First of all, the soil needs
some little preparation, especially if seeds are to
be sown. I have always found it .idvisable to
of space from the ontset. A weak seedling
can never make a sturdy plant ; hence it is neces-
sary to lay a good foundation. This thin sowing,
then, must be supplemented by a rigorous thinning
of the seedlings at the outset of their existence.
This is necessary even when annuals are being
grown alone, but doubly so when in association
with other plants. Just one other item. It will
not materially harm the bulbs or herbaceous plants
if just a few, a very few, of their largest leaves
are removed to give the annuals more light and
air during the early stages of their career. To
bulb enthusiasts this will, I know,
seem like rank heresy ; but in
gardening, as in everything else,
it is advisable at times to adopt
a policy of give-and-take.
There are a good many hardy
annuals suitable for this associa-
tion, such as Candytuft, Godetias,
Clarkias, Virginian Stock, Mig-
nonette, Alyssum, Leptosiphon,
Nigella Miss Jekyll, Larkspurs,
Shirley Poppies, annual Chrysan-
themums, scarlet and bhie Flax,
and Pot Marigolds. The accom-
panying illustration may be of
interest, as it represents a bed of
Darwin Tulips edged with old-
fashioned Pinks, and a plant of
perennial Candytuft in the fore-
ground. On the opposite page is
an illustration of the same bed,
from a photograph taken in the
month of August. The Candytuft
shown there was sown between
the Tulips as advised, and the
charming effect will readily be
seen. H, H.
A GOOD ANNUAL FOR
THE GREENHOUSE.
Browallia speciosa major is such
a pleasing little plant under quite
ordinary cultivation that I wonder
it does not become more popular.
It is of the Solanacea Order and
is almost hardy, but succeeds best
when growing in the greenhouse
or conservatory. The seed should
be sown during March in shallow
pans or boxes in a compost of equal
parts of turfy loam, leaf-mould and
sand, and kept near the glass. Pot
up as necessary with a good fertile
soil, shading from very bright
sunshine. Some cultivators advise
pinching the plants occasionally
during the growing season, but
lightly point between the plants with a small ; this I never do, as I think they are more graceful
fork, so as to get about two inches of fine, workable , when left to grow quite naturally. Each \vinter
soil. Into this some superphosphate of lime, my greenhouse is brightened with groups of these
A BED OF DARWIN TULIPS EDGED WITH PINKS. ON THE OPPOSITE
PAGE THE SAME BED IS SHOWN FILLED WITH CANDYTUFT,
SOWN BETWEEN THE TULIPS.
a large handful to a square yard, is well worked,
as this provides food of a lasting character to the
annuals just at their flowering period. Then,
thin sowing is absolutely essential. Sturdy seed-
lings only are of an)» use for this kuid of garden-
charming plants and their pretty blue flowers.
Other good species of Browallia are B. grandiflora,
which is also very pretty, with much smaller
flowers than B. s. major, and B. Jamesonii, better
known as Streptosolen Jamesonii, which has orange-
ing, or, indeed, for any other ; hence one must coloured flowers and grows considerably taller than
impress upon the beginner the vital importance the two before-mentioned varieties. T- T. D.
138
THE GARDEN.
[March i_i, 1014.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHER.N GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
Fig Trees in Pots. — Trees which were started
in December should now be making good progress,
and wUl require some stimulant to assist them in
swelling their fruit. Guano is a very reliable
manure for this purpose, but must be given in
moderation. Pinch the shoots when a few inches
long to encourage the growth of a second crop
of fruit. Syringe the trees twice daily and shut
the house early in the afternoon. A night tempera-
ture of 60° will be quite high enough, rising to 70°
by day with sun-heat.
Peach Trees in Pots. — The earliest trees are
now swelling their fruits, and should be watered
with great care. If they are once allowed to become
too dry at the roots, the prospect of a satisfactory
crop will be much reduced. When the stoning
period is over, liberal supplies of manure-water
should be given. The final disbudding may now
take place, leaving two or three well-placed shoots
on each branch, some of which may afterwards
be pinched to a few eyes from the base.
Melons. — If these are to be grown in flat pits
or frames, no time should be lost in making
up the hot-bed, which may be composed of
two-thirds Oak leaves and the remainder of
stable manure. The leaves create a mild and
lasting bottom-heat, which is indispensable in
the production of Melons in unheated pits or
frames. In making up the beds for wooden frames,
the material should be at least 3 feet larger than
the frame, in order to allow a good quantity of
fermenting material to be placed round the box
when necessarj'. The soil may consist of turfy
loam and a good sprinkling of old lime rubble.
This should be placed in the pit several days
before the plants are ready to put out. The
mounds of soil should be at least 15 inches deep,
and when warmed through should be made firm
by treading. When two rough leaves have been
produced, the plants should be carefully put out
and the soil made firm. When growth commences,
the tops should be pinched out and four shoots
taken from each plant, and, trained on the surface
of the bed, these will in due time produce numerous
side shoots, on which the young Melons will appear.
The Flower Garden.
Border Chrysanthemums. — If the stools of
these were lifted in November and placed in a
cold pit, there should be no difficulty in finding
plenty of sturdy cuttings now. If these are
inserted in small pots of sandy soil and stood in
a close, cold pit, they will soon make roots. Three
cuttings may be placed rotmd the edge of a 3-inch
pot, and when sufficiently rooted they may be
raised quite close to the roof glass and gradually
hardened for planting at the beginning of May.
Seed-Sowing, — ^There should be no delay in
sowing seeds of French and African Marigolds,
China Asters, Ten-week Stocks, Phlox Drum-
mondii. Zinnias, Dimorphotheca amrantiaca,
Dianthus and Rhodanthe. All of these may be
sown in a cold pit quite near the glass, and should
be pricked off as soon as large enough to handle.
Primrose and Polyanthus seeds should now be
sown in the open border or in a cold frame to pro-
duce plants for flowering next spring. These
should be transplanted 6 inches apart as soon as
large enough.
Bedding Geraniums. — If the stock is at a
short, no time should be lost in taking cuttings.
If placed in 2j-inch pots and stood on a bed of
fine ashes over a gentle hot-bed, they will soon
make roots, and may then be potted into 4-inch
pots. Coleus, Iresine, Alternanthera, Lobelia
and Ageratum should be propagated as soon as
possible, so that good, strong plants may be available
by the middle of May.
Dahlias. — Early struck cuttings should not be
allowed to become stunted for want of potting ;
but, as soon as sufficiently rooted, they should be
potted into 5-inch pots and grown in a temperature
of 50° quite near the glass. When established,
air should be freely admitted. Cuttings may
still be taken and placed in _brisk bottom-heat.
Tuberous Begonias. — The tubers of these
should now be started into growth. If placed in
shallow trays and stood in a warm house, they
will soon make young growth, and sliould
at this stage be potted singly into 5-inch pots
in a compost of loam and leaf-soil in equal parts.
Water carefully until the plants are established.
After this stage air must be admitted in sufficient
quantity to keep the plants stocky.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Alpine Strawberries. — If fruits of these are
required during September and October, the
plants may be raised from seed now. If sown in
pans or boxes and placed in a temperature of 50°,
the young plants wUl soon appear. Prick them
into ' small pots when large enough and grow
in a cold pit quite near the roof glass. These
seedlings should be ready to plant out in May.
Figs. — The pruning and nailing of Fig trees
on south walls should be finished as soon as possible.
Let the old wood be well thinned out. leaving
as many short-jointed shoots as possible without
crowding. Figs are liable to make too much soft
growth unless planted ir; restricted borders ;
but this may easily be avoided by building rough
underground walls when the trees are planted.
It is advisable to protect the trees from early
spring frost by blinds.
The Kitchen Garden.
Peas which have been raised under glass for
planting on a south border should be gradually
hardened. The plants may now be fully exposed
during the day by the removal of the lights. When
sufficiently hard, they should be carefully planted
out, and protected from cold wind by evergreen
branches placed along the sides of the rows.
Young Pea Plants raised in the open garden
will now be ready for sticks. Let these be placed
in position with as little delay as possible.
Onions and Leeks sown in the early part of
the year should now be ready for transplant-
ing into boxes, and be allowed 3 inches or
4 inches between the plants each way. Keep
close for a short time, and when established they
should be freely ventilated in order to prepare
them for planting out in the middle of April.
Celery. — Seeds should now be sown for the
principal batch of Celery. Very little heat will
be necessary if so%vn in boxes and placed in a
slightly heated pit until the plants are through
the surface. They may then be removed to a
cold pit quite near the roof glass and protected
from frost. The early batch of plants should now
be ready for pricking into boxes of fine rich soil.
These should be steadily grown without a check,
and never allowed to suffer from the want of
water at the roots.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Cauliflowers. — Plants that have been wuitered
in cold frames will perhaps be all the better for
being planted out now if the weather is at all
suitable. This will make room for other plants
requiring protection. It will, however, be well
to protect the young plants with some Spruce
twigs. These will serve the double purpose of
giving shelter and acting as a protection agamst
game, particularly pheasants. A slight dusting of
lime or soot will ward off slugs.
Onions. — Autumn-sown Onions may now be
planted out, and if space is limited, they may be
planted between the rows of some permanent
crop, such as a new plantation of Strawberries.
This crop of Onions will generally be found to be
of great value when one has difficulty in getting
the spring-sown Onions to ripen early enough.
Potatoes. — Another planting of early Potatoes
may be got in, but in cold districts it will be better
to wait luitil towards the end of the month before
planting maincrop varieties.
Turnip-Rooted Beet, — Where one is expected
to have a supply of early Beet for salads, I find
it is a capital plan to make a sowing of the Turnip-
rooted variety in frames about this date. They
are much earlier than the long ones, and can be
used when quite small. In* growing in frames,
care should he taken to give plenty of air, unless
on ver\' cold days, as Beet resents coddling.
Tomatoes. — For those who only grow one
soon as they are ready, and at this stage avoid
cold draughts.
The Flower Garden.
Hollyhocks. — Where these are grown from
seed sown last month, they will now be ready for
pricking out, and for this I would advise doing
so into small pots in preference to boxes. To
have them in bloom in the autumn, they ought
to be kept growing steadily in heat for some time
yet and potted on when required. They will
amply repay any extra care bestowed on them al
this stage, as well-growai plants treated as annuals
are seldom attacked by the Hollyhock rust.
Cosmos. — The new early flowering varieties
of this fine annual are particularly effective dotted
among the herbaceous plants. If sown now,
pricked into frames and planted out as soon as
they are ready, they will bloom continuously
from the end of June till frost cuts them down.
Seed-Sowing. — For general purposes most half-
hardy annuals may now be sown ; but it will
be wise to save a pinch of seed of each in case of
faUure. This may be sown a fortnight hence,
when it is just possible that the plants will come in
very handy in case of shortage.
Nigella. — Although usually treated as a hardy
annual, I prefer to treat this as half-hardy and
make two sowings, one now, and another towards
the end of the month. The variety Miss Jekyll
is a great favourite. The flowers are produced
in great profusion among the graceful foliage,
and where cut flowers are in demand I find it stands
cutting splendidly.
Stock Empress Augusta Victoria. — ^This tall,
branching Stock is possibly one of the best lavender
kinds in commerce. Last season I saw a long
border planted entirely with this variety, and
it was a sight not soon to be forgotten. It may
be so\\'n now and brought on gently, and in planting
out give it at least 15 inches to 18 inches between
the plants.
Plants Under Glass.
Coleus. — These free-growing plants, so indis-
pensable for furnishing and decorative purposes,
are as popular to-day as ever. Cuttings may
now be taken from stock plants and rooted in
brisk heat. These wUl root in about a fortnight.
No difficulty need be experienced in obtaining
the necessary stock, as those rooted cuttings
can be cut over to provide another batch. Seed
may also be sow'u at this time, and if the majority
of the seedlings are found to be rather coarse,
one is always sure to get one or two that are
really worth growing.
Petunia. — This old greenhouse favourite is
not now so much in evidence as it ought to be.
considering its attractiveness. This cannot, of
course, be accounted for by any difficulty in its
cultivation, as that, surely, is of the simplest.
Cuttings rooted now will make very fine plants
in an incredibly short space of time. Seed sown
now will also produce very good plants in the
autumn.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Reducing Flowers of Pears. — As Pears usually
show an abnormal crop of flower-buds, I think
it is a good practice to go over the trees and reduce
these just before they open. Tliis will give those
that are left a better chance to set. This, at any
rate, might be done with the better varieties,
as Pears are usually grown on a south or west
wall, with, in some cases, a projecting coping,
which has a tendency to keep the trees dry at the
root. In such situations it will be well to see that
they are fairly moist at the roots, as if allowed to
become dry at this stage the flowers would most
certainly fail to set. The same remarlis apply
equally to all wall trees
Raspberries. — These will now be starting into
growth. The tips of the shoots may be somewhai
shortened, and recent plantations should he cut
back to within 6 inches of the ground.
John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
tiopeloun Gardens, South Queensferry, N.B-
March 14, ±914.]
THE GARDEN.
139
BULBS FOR SPRING PLANT-
ING OUTSIDE.
So much accustomed are gardeners and
amateurs to ordering their bulbs and
tubers in autumn that many are liable
to overlook the fact that it is possible,
and even advisable, to obtain some of
these in spring for planting at that
time. Many of them require to be lifted in late
autumn and stored until spring. It is unnecessary
to enlarge upon this point, and also to speak
of such subjects as Liliums, Galtonias, Gladioli,
Montbretias, Begonias, Tigridias and other well-
known bulbs frequently planted, and upon whose
culture separate articles appear from time to time.
The bulbs, corms or tubers mentioned here
can still be purchased, and may be planted in
March or April.
The Agapanthus, although almost outside our
sphere, may be mentioned as good for spring
planting in the open. Planted deeply and the
foliage left on all the winter as a natural protec-
tion, it is hardy even in the South of Scotland.
A. minor mooreanus is by far the hardiest
variety.
Albuca Nelsonii, which has white flowers
tinted with red, is hardly ever seen, though in
warm climates it may be left out all the winter
with but slight protection. Plant 4 inches deep
in a sunny place. A few
Alliums are obtainable in spring, and the best
of these is probably A. pedemontanum, with rose-
coloured flowers. It is hardy if planted 2 inches
or 3 inches deep. Spring is the best time for
planting the magnificent
Alstrcemerias. They should never be less
than 6 inches or 9 inches deep, and a foot is not
too much. The hardiest are A. aurantiaca, with
its lighter-coloured varieties ; A. chilensis and its
varieties, and A. psittacina. I^ess hardy, but
very beautiful, are A. pelegrina and A. p. alba.
Those who admire the noble
Belladonna Lily (Amaryllis Belladonna) may
be reminded that this is a good time to plant the
bulbs from 9 inches to 12 inches deep at the foot
of a greenhouse or south wall. It is quite hardy
there.
Anemone coronaria may still be planted for
late blooms. A delightful little bulb not often
met with, and hardy enough to plant now and
lift iu the autumn, is the blood red Anomatheca
omenta. It looks best in half-shade, and should
be planted 2 inches deep.
Antholyzas are striking plants, with big plaited
leaves and spikes of red and yellow flowers. A.
paniculata is hardy, and A. crocosmoides is nearly
so. Plant 6 inches to 9 inches deep in a sunny
place. Both flower in the autumn.
The singular Arisaemas attract some people,
and may be planted now. Asclepiases may still
be planted, and A. tuberosa is the best, although
not a great success in the North. Plant 4 inches
deep. The charming Mexican Coral Drops (Bessera
elegans), with scarlet and white flowers, may be
grown in light soil if planted 3 inches deep. Lift
in the autumn and store in dry sand. The
climbing
Boussingaultia baselloides, with small white
flowers, does well on warm trellises, planted
6 inches deep. Bravoa geminiflora (the Twin
Flower) is a beauty with its orange red flowers,
and should be planted 3 inches deep in a sunny
place and lifted in the autumn.
Chlidanthus fragrans, with sweet-scented,
yellow, funnel-shaped flowers, is not quite hardy,
but may be planted 3 inches deep and lifted in
the autumn. Commelina coelestis, blue, is nearly
hardy, and may be planted 3 inches or 4 inches
'deep in light soil. Though fully open in the
evening, the white Cooperia Drummondii does
well in many places if planted 3 inches deep in a
sunny place and lifted in the autumn.
Crinums would require an article to themselves.
For permanent planting the best are C. longi-
foliimi (capense) and its varieties, C. Powellii
and its varieties. Even C. Moorei and C. yemense
are found hardy by some. Plant the Crinums
about a foot deep.
Cypellas are good for spring planting. Planted
3 inches deep, C. Herbertii, deep yellow, and
Cypella or Pohlia platensis, blue and orange, are
charming. Lift in the autumn. Eucomises may
still be planted ; E. punctata is the hardiest,
standing the winter in light soil in many places.
Geranium atlanticum is a tuberous Crane's-bill for
spring plantuig, but is hardy.
Incarvilleas, now so popular, may be planted
with success. I. Delavayi, I. brevipes and I.
grandiflora are the hardiest. Hymenocallises are
lovely bulbs to plant in the spring and lift in the
autumn. H. Amancaes, yellow, and H. lit-
toralis, white, may be planted in a sunny place
9 inches deep and protected in the winter.
The white, August-flowering Milla biflnra, half-
hardy, does nicely 3 inches deep in a sunny
place. The Pancratiums are exquisite. The
hardiest is P. illyricum, but P. maritimum
is almost hardy. Both have white flowers, and
can be planted 9 inches deep. Rigidella immacu-
lata, scarlet, may have the same treatment as the
Tigridias.
Tropaeolum tuberosum, which is hardy if
planted 8 inches or 9 inches deep, is a beautiful
climber with scarlet and yellow flowers. The
Zephyranthuses are exquisite, Z. Candida being the
hardiest, and if planted 4 inches deep at the foot
of a greenhouse wall, will thrive. Z. Atamasco.
white ; Z. carinata, rose ; and Z. sulphurea, yellow
and copper, are pretty if lifted and stored in the
wmter. s. Arnott.
POISONOUS PLANTS.
The number of vegetable poisons is very large,
and a striking feature about them is that they are
frequently found in plants which belong largely
to natural orders associated with health rather
than with death. This is strikingly shown in our
own country, as well as iu lands more associated
with deadly vegetation, and it is a fact which may
well call for comment. If, as it is supposed,
plants develop strong-smelling or dangerous pro-
perties in order to ward off their foes, why do not
the harmless members of the order do the same ?
Why are a few Beans — notably the deadly Calabar
— so harmful that it is imsafe to purchase foreign
beau-meal, while most of the plants of this large
and splendid order of plants are designed for
man's use ? One or two of the Vetches are other
instances. It is diflictilt to say.
It is true that some harmless plants belonging
to poisonous families have rather characteristic,
and not very reassiuring smells, which seem to
connect them with an evil ancestry, but probably
this wears off somewhat with cultivation (and
tends to confirm what has been said about harmless
plants), just as the poisonous nature of some plants
undoubtedly gets less or disappears when they are
cultivated. Carrots, Parsley, Fennel, notably
Celery, Tomatoes and even Potatoes when
green bear out this contention, though the
last two belong to a notoriously poisonous order
of plants. G. T.
THE MAKING OF A LAWN
FROM SEED.
FOR making a lawn from seed, if the
sowing should have to be done in spring-
time, the grotmd, if possible, ought
to have been dug over during the winter
months and allowed to lie in its rough
state until it is time to sow the seeds.
By leaving it lying rough, the frost gets a much
better hold, with the result, especially if it is
inclined to be heavy soil, that a better and finer
seed-bed can be obtained. If the ground is in poor
condition, some good, old, rotted stable manure
should be lightly dug in ; but care must be taken
not to dig it in too deeply, as it is essential that the
roots of the young plants should reach it as soon
as possible if it is to be of any use. The
Preparation of the Seed-Bed in spring should
be as follows — at least, I have found it the best :
Rake the whole surface to break up any clods and
also to remove any stones and rubbish. Make
good any hollows by filling them up with soil, and
also level any high parts, so as to get the surface
as even as possible. When this work has been
carried out, tread the whole surface, then rake again,
and, after this, roll it until it is quite firm and true.
When the rolling has been completed, any uneven-
ness will show, and a final levelling can be done.
Before sowing, as the seed-bed is now ready, rake
over once more, so as to break up the surface to
receive the seed. The
Sowing should be done on a quiet day, and when
the ground is dry on the top. Scatter the seed
evenly all over and rake lightly in every direction
so as to thoroughly bury the seed ; but when raking
be smre not to rake too heavily, as the seeds only
require a light covering. Roll all with a heavy iron
roller once, then leave it.
Treatment of Young Grass.— When the seeds
have germinated and the young plants are just
peeping through, do not on any account roll then ;
but as soon as the grass is, say, an inch or
so high, give a rolling to firm the surface, and
mow with a good sharp mower so as not to
tear out any of the young plants. Set the mower
high enough so as just to cut the ends off the
grass. Do not on any account let the grass grow
too long, as it is not a crop of hay that is aimed at,
but a thick, close carpet of turf, and this cannot
be better or more quickly obtained than by keeping
it down. I would make a strong point of this last
matter in regard to mowing. Care should now be
taken not to over-roll, and the roller should not
be used when it is raining, a time one very often
sees the roller in use. This is a fatal mistake, as
the grass, like a human being, must have air. It
must surely be only common sense that if the
ground is rolled when it is so wet on the top, the
roots are being deprived of the air and the young
plants are gradually being choked. Never roU
even an old lawn when the surface is very wet,
and never roll during rain, as I am perfectly satisfied
140
THE GARDEN.
[March 14, 1914
in my own miad that this has been the ruination
of many a good lawn and the means of so many
weeds making their appearance where there was
once a good, clean carpet of turf.
The foregoing remarks are simply a few of the
methods I employ, and, I must say, with excellent
results, when I lay down a lawn from seed.
Peter W. Lees.
(Greenkeeper, Mid-Surrey Golf Club.)
ON
SEASONABLE NOTES
GRAPE VINES.
HEAT DISBUDDING, AND TYING
DOWN SHOOTS.
SINCE the weather became milder, the
heat under glass has been like summer.
Grape-growers always like to experience
a period of bright sunshine while the
Vines are starting new growth for the
year. Shoots forced on by artificial
lieat dm-mg- their early stages, %vhen the weather
IS generally cloudy, are never strong at first, and,
of course, that means loss of time. I have also
noticed rather smaller bunches, as the main stem
of each bunch and stems emanating from it are
shorter. The bunches will be compact enough,
but to obtain high-class berries many more of
them, regarded as surplus berries, must be cut out.
Sun-heat is, therefore, very precious in the
vinery. I quite beUeve that amateur cultivators
lose a lot of sun-heat in the springtime. Of
course, they no doubt prevent loss of foliage
through scorching, but an expert Grape-grower
will husband almost all the sun-heat and do no
harm thereby to the leaves, but rather benefit
them. The inexperienced cultivator loses the
heat through injudicious ventilation. If he
opens wide the ventilators— often the front ones
as well as those at the top of the house— he causes
a current of cold air to pass through the structure,
and it chills the warmed leaves. Now, how
must the amateur ventilate without causing
harm, but with good results? He should open
the top ventilators about an inch wide just before
the sun shines on the house in the morning.
Excessive moisture is thus dried up on the tiny
leaves before the sun's rays are strong enough to
scorch them. About two hours afterwards open
the ventilators another inch, and at noon, if the
sun-heat increases, another inch. Front ventila-
tion is neither necessary nor desirable. The heat
in the structure may be very high, but it will
do good, especially if the path and border are
damped once or twice. The atmosphere will
become quite moist ; it will be what is commonly
termed " a growing atmosphere." None of this
moisture will lodge on the Vine leaves as long
as the top ventilators are open. As the sun's
power wanes, the ventilators must be gradually
closed; finally, not later than half-past three
o'clock in case of a house facing due south.
Saving Fire-Heat.— All this means a saving of
fuel and the work attendant on stoking, as the fires
must be allowed to bum out each morning as the
sun-heat increases, and the pipes must again be
warmed as the internal temperature goes down
after sunset.
Disbudding.— It is always a pleasure to rub
out nice fat buds as long as there are plenty of
fatter ones to retain, because one knows that the
buds left on the Vines will soon gain extra strength.
'Inhere are, however, many amateur cultivators
who caimot bring their courage to the pouit
of removing enough of the surplus buds. This
has often been proved to me, and, of course, the
result is overcrowding right from the begmning.
On each spur leave one shoot well placed and,
of course, bearing the best bunch of Grapes, as
the tiny bunch can readily be seen in the point
of a shoot an inch long. The thinnmg out of
the bunches will be a matter to claim attention
some weeks later on. All the disbudding must
be completed when the shoots are from I inch to
2 inches long.
Tying Down the Shoots.— It is wonderful
how quickly the shoots grow at this season, and
they always point towards the roof glass. The
ends of the shoots would be crippled if left for
long touching the glass ; this should not happen.
The young bunches would also be chilled.
To prevent any check, commence tying down
the shoots just before they reach the glass.
Simply bring down the pomt a few inches ; then
further in a few days' time, and, when the Vines
are flowering, do the final tymg to the horizontal
bars, as the shoots will stand" the strain without
snapping off at that stage. Avon.
SWEET PEA NOTES.
THE present month is of vast importance
to all growers of Sweet Peas. The
seedlings require careful attention,
while the soil which was trenched in
the autumn will be greatly benefited
by a top-dressing of soot, super-
phosphate of lime and bone-meal, and a close
vigilance must be kept against the ravages of
frost, mice and birds ; for, should a mishap occur
from any of these causes, it is getting almost too
late for fresh sowings to be made to produce
blooms for exhibition purposes.
Autumn-Sown Plants.— Thus far the winter
has been most favourable, and never have I seen
plants in a better condition. Of course, it is in
March and April that we expect to see the autumn-
sown plants "leg along," and the past sunny
days have worked their magic charm and vigorous
side growths are pushing up well ; in fact, all the
omens for future success are " set fair." However,
it is too early to expect whiter to have departed,
and sharp frosts must be looked for, so it is neces-
sary to provide protection at night and to give all
reasonable care to prevent unnecessary checks
occurring. A strong, short-jointed, healthy plant,
well able to withstand bad weather when it is
planted out, should be the ideal of all growers.
To attam this the growing plants will need plenty
of space, and on no account must they be allowed
to become spindly and drawn, or matted together
in a confused mass. See to it that twigs are
placed around them before they can topple over,
as it is folly to neglect to give them adequate
supports. Prevention of trouble is much better
than trying to effect a cure, which, in the case
of Sweet Peas, is seldom efficacious. Aji excellent
plan, if the grower can give the necessary time
and trouble, is to treat every seedling as he would
a rooted cutting, i.e., pot it into a 3-inch pot,
using good loamy potting soil. I like domg this
in early February, and have always found the
plants greatly improved thereby. For a few
days after repotting I keep them close, but the
plants soon get away with renewed vigour. How-
ever, by the time these notes are printed it will
be rather late for this course to be adopted, yet it
is a plan well worth following, especially if exhi-
bition blooms be the end in view ; but in growing
for ordinary decorative purposes it is not necessary.
Spring-Raised Plants.— The hardening off of
these plants should be gradual, but it is a great
mistake to keep them too long in a warm, moist
house, and especially if it is not possible to place
them within a few inches of the glass ; therefore,
directly the fourth leaf appears, transfer them
to a cold frame, although, of course, common sense
must be used in giving them air, as it will not
be advisable to expose them fully to the bitterly
cold winds so prevalent at this time of the year.
Above all things avoid producing a weak, attenuated
plant, and such plants are more common from a
spring sowing, as they have been grown quickly
in a warm, moist atmosphere, whereas those sown
in the autumn have braved the chills of winter
and altogether are hardier.
Method of Hardening Off.— Perhaps a few-
words on this wUl be helpful. The plants, when
3 inches or 4 inches high, should be placed in a
cold frame, the lights of which are kept closed
for a few days except durmg bright sunshine
at midday, and at night a mat should be placed
over the glass. (Some of my readers will rightly
say I have often written that Sweet Peas will
withstand several degrees of frost. Quite so ;
yet I do not think it wise to expose tender and
oftentimes rare seedlings unnecessarily ; hence the
foregoing advice.) After ten days of this treat-
ment the plants should be accustomed gradually
to hardier treatment, avoiding exposure to bitingly
cold winds, and by the beginning of April the
lights should be removed altogether, the plants
now being sturdy and strong, capable of weather-
ing the adverse climatic conditions they may
have to encounter.
Pests.— To frustrate the attacks of birds,
mice and slugs, vigilance is the chief weapon.
The old-fashioned remedies of cotton for birds
and chloride of lime dusted outside the box or
frame to keep away mice are effective if applied
before the damage is done ; but too often these
precautions are taken when the crop has 'been
severely mauled.
Soil. — The top-dressing of soil which has pre-
viously been trenched is of great importance.
This must not, of course, be overdone, but a good
dusting of soot, bone-meal and superphosphate
should be raked in. I have tested several of the
" special manures " that are in commerce, using
them instead of the soot, superphosphate and
bone-meal, and have found them very good.
A fortnight previous to planting I used 20Z. of
Dobbie's Sweet Pea Manure to every circle ol
2 feet diameter, and 20Z. of Clay's Fertilizer to
every yard in rows, and had excellent results
from both. I must mention that good farmyard
manure had been well incorporated into the
soil during the trenchmg operations, and the soil
had been well pulverised. The texture of the
soil has a deal to do with the success or failure
of experiments of this kind ; but every soil which
has been well prepared in the autumn will readily
respond to the extra nourishment given by a
liberal surface-dressing of soot, bone-meal, &c.,
or the specially prepared manures for Sweet Peas
as advertised in Thf Garden.
Summer Feeding I will deal witl. in a future
article, as it is an important cultural factor, the
misuse of which causes much trouble in bud-
dropping, rank, sappy, flowerless growths, an.l
kindred ills, ^- «■ l'«"»-
GARDEN.
■^3^-^,
^^^^^^^
No. 2209.— Vol. LXXVIII,
March 21, iqi4.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Protection of Fruit-Buds. — Now is the time
wlien birds do such damage to the buds of the
majority of fruit trees and bushes, and means
must be taken to ward them off. An occasional
spraying with Quassia E.xtract or any substance
that will make the buds unpalatable will to a
certain extent stop them.
Planting Forced Bulbs.— A very pleasing
effect may sometimes be produced by planting
forced bulbs in the wilder parts of the flower
garden or shrubbery. These should be planted
as soon as possible, as if left until the autumn
most of the foliage has died down, and it may just
happen that the bulbs are planted too near to a
previous plantation.
Transplanting Pentstemons. — The young plants
should now be taken from the frames and trans-
planted in some sheltered spot that has previously
been prepared. If some leaf-soil has been forked
in, this will not only assist root action, but the
plants will lift with much better balls of soil at
planting-time. Should severe weather set in, they
win require a little protection, say, of Spruce
branches.
Sowing Primula sinensis. — To be of any value
for autumn decoration, seeds should be sown
about the middle of March ; and although this
Primula requires very little heat during the growing
season, it is well to sow the seeds in a temperature
of 60°. Prick out the young plants as soon as
large enough to handle, keep close for a few days,
and water with great care. Clean, well-crocked
pots are indispensable, and the soil for future
potting may consist of turfy loam and leaf-soil,
with plenty of sharp sand to keep the compost
from becoming sour.
Saxifraga oppositifolia. — 'Bhis is one of the most
beautiful of early flowering Saxifragas or Rockfoils.
A rich mass of its rosy purple flowers on a ledge
in the rock garden is very beautiful at the present
time. It is one of our rare British flowers, being
found in some of the hilly parts of Wales, Scotland
and Ireland. There are several beautiful varieties,
some with larger flowers or of a deeper colour,
as well as a pure white variety, alba. All of the
varieties succeed in a well-drained, sunny position,
in soil composed of good loam, peat, sand and a
few granite chips.
Planting by the Lakeside. — ^This is the time
to make plantations of moisture-loving plants
on the banks of streams or ponds. There is no
scarcity of plants suitable for the purpose, which
may include bold clumps of Iris, of which there
are many charming varieties to choose from.
Spiraeas may be planted close to the water's edge.
Lythrums, Senecios, Rodgersia podophylla,
Osmunda regalis, Gunnera scabra and G. manicata
are noble plants, and weJ] suited for the water's
edge. Myosotis and Primula japonica may be
freely planted, and will produce a very pleasing
effect, but must be placed well up the bank.
The First Clematis to Flower. — Clematis
calycina is the first of the genus to flower,
often commencing in January, and for this reason
it should be grown more than it is. The pendulous
flowers, which are borne in the leaf-axil, are li
inches in diameter, the petaloid sepals being of a
yellowish white, faintly spotted on the inside
with reddish purple ; and although the flowers
PROFESSOR KEEBLE, THE NEW DIRECTOR AT THE
ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S GARDENS.
may not be termed showy, they are, nevertheless,
distinctly pretty against the handsome dark
bronzy green, finely cut foliage. Although hardy,
it should be given a south wall, as this enables
the wood to get thoroughly ripened, which is
essential for a good display of flowers.
Treatment of Gladioli. — There seems to be
a great diversity of opinion as to the treatment
of these stately flowers. Some advocate potting
the bulbs, and, where space is plentiful, this method
has much to commend it. Others, again, plant
the bulbs where they are to flower, and in early
districts this would seem to be the better method
of the two. But in cold and late districts it is
preferable to place the bulbs in ordinary cutting-
boxes now, and stand them either in cold frames
or in a cool house. If well hardened off and
planted out carefully, little damage need be
done to the roots. By adopting this method
one has a reasonable chance of getting them into
bloom with the other bedding plants.
Pruning Roses. — The majority of Roses may
now be pruned. Notwithstanding the great advance
made in Rose-growing during the past year or
two, it is surprising to see the number who still
persist in pruning their Roses as one would a hedge,
all shoots being cut over, big and little alike.
Expert Rose-growers know the peculiarities of
each variety, and will prune accordingly. But
for those having only a miscellaneous collection,
the following rule may be followed : Cut clean
away all weak and sickly shoots, leaving only
matured shoots of moderate thickness, and these
may be cut back to within 4 inches to 6 inches
of the base.
Dividing Aspidistras. — Few plants are more
useful for house decoration than the Aspidistras,
especially where gas is used. Both A. lurida
and its variegated form are equally hardy, and
with a little attention will flourish in out-of-the-
way positions, where most other plants would
quickly collapse. The present is a suitable time
for the propagation of these useful plants. Take
the old plants that are to be divided and pull
them to pieces with one or more leaves on, accord-
ing to the number of plants it is desired to make,
and then pot them up in a mixture of fibrous
loam, leaf-soil and sand.
The New Director at Wisley. — Just as
our last issue had gone to press we received
a notification from the Royal Horticultural Society
to the effect that Professor Keeble, F.R.S., of
University College, Reading, had been appointed
Director of the gardens at Wisley. It wUl be
remembered that at the annual general meeting
of the Fellows held in February last the Council
were empowered to spend some of the surplus
funds for the- purpose of developing the gardens
on scientific lines. We understand that Professor
Keeble's duties will include the general guidance
and supervision of the trials, teaching and research.
It is pleasing to learn that Mr. F. J. Chittenden
will remain in charge of the educational section,
where he has already done a great deal of good
work, and that Mr. S. T. Wright, the superinten-
dent, will still supervise the practical work. We
wish Professor Keeble every success in his new
sphere, and hope that he will always remember
that practical horticulture is of far greater import-
ance to the Fellows of the society than purely
scientific research, which is already being carried
out in many other directions. There is a danger
of unnecessary overlapping in many of the experi-
ments that are being conducted in different
establishments.
142
THE GARDEN.
[March 21, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
(The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
Borders of Lavender and Pinks.— In this
Jamp climate the common and Dutch Lavenders
are very apt to die off in big pieces in the spring.
To avoid bare spots we put in single Pinks from
cuttings all around the plants, hoping they would
grow up and through the grey bushes. The result
of the experiment in its third year can be
seen in the accompanying picture. There are
three shades of pink in the flowers and three
shades of grey, including the stone paving, so
there is no monotony in the scheme. The Pinks
lasted in bloom more than six weeks last summer,
and filled the small garden with fragrance ; and
the Lavender, wc find, gives out its scent even in
winter. — Rosa Tangve, Westtnere. EdgbastoH.
Tall Antirrhinums. — As I consider the better
varieties nf these plants among the best of
able article on page 131 and page 132 ? I am
sure it is known to very many of your readers.
It might appropriately be described as a bicolor,
but the colours (pale rose with white) are so soft
and blend so well that it is a general favourite. —
F. R. H. S,
Lachenalias as Room Plants. — Few take th(
trouble to grow these bulbs well, and the results,
in consequence, are poor, and then they are not
appreciated. I try to do what I can for them,
and I am rewarded. I had a' beautiful pan of
L. Nelsonii in my study for no less than twenty-
two days last February, I live in the room every
day, and at night, with the oil lamp and fire
combined, it gets pretty warm (of course, no gas).
Is there any Hyacinth, Tulip, Daffodil or Narcissus
that will go on so long under like conditions ?
Nelsonii is good, but give me the rich deep orange
yellows, of Rose Barton and the larger-flowered
and more open bells of St. Patrick. This latter,
coupled with Shiner and John Geoghegan. I put
at the verv top of Sir Frederick Moore's striking
BORDERS OF THE COMMON LAVENDER AND PINKS IN A
EDGBASTON, BIRMINGHAM.
READER S GARDEN AT
hardy plants, I was much interested to read the
article by Mr. Brotherston on page 131 of your
issue of March 14. He mentions with approval
some plants having spikes 7 feet high, and seems
to have a contempt for those of normal size !
This is rather strange, bearing in mind that the
intermediate section, growing about eighteen
inches, is just now the most popular and contains
some of the best varieties. Surely these and the
ordinary tall varieties are incomparably more
beautiful and more useful than such monstrosities
as your contributor mentions. I find Antirrhinums
can be grown as hardy annuals with very fair
success, the seeds being sown in a glass-covered
box in March, without artificial heat. Good loamy
soil should be used to ensure quick growth. Some
plants I raised in this way last season bloomed,
in poor soil, for quite tw'o months, and made
fine, large, branching plants. — G. L. J.
Why does Mr. Brotherston omit Antir-
rhinum Cottage Maid in his comprehensive and
creations. August potting, light, rich, well-drained
soil, air and a moderate temperature and thorough
ripening are the main factors in successful culture. —
Joseph Jacob.
The Shrubby Browallias. — There is a great
tendency to regard all Browallias as annuals ;
indeed, the shrubby-growing B. speciosa major
was recently referred to in The Garden as an
annual. Though seed is readily obtainable and
seedlings grow away readily, there is no need to
depend solely upon this mode of increase, as cuttings
root without difficulty, and plants so obtained
will flower in quite a small state. As a decorative
plant B. speciosa major well merits al! that your
correspondent says in its favour, for it is almost
continuous blooming. A second species, B.
viscosa, which is also described in some horti-
cultural works as an annual, is of as pronounced
a shrubby character as the other. From B.
speciosa major this species differs in the flowers
being smaller, and in colour a deep blue with a
white eye or centre. Both are well worth growing.
They are equally floriferous, not only under pot
culture, but when bedded out during the summer
months, under which conditions I have met with
them in several instances within the last two or
three years. — H. P. I
Myosotidium nobile Flowering in Scotland. —
There is a nice specimen of this rare plant, which
was sent from a Cornish garden last autumn,
in flower here at present. It subsequently lost
all its leaves, but these were renewed during the
winter. It is a lovely flower, and one would be
glad to know if it seeds freely from self-fertilised
seeds, or if these arc fertile if and when produced.
I would like to see it prospering in a warm corner
in the open. Has anyone in the North, in the
Rhyns of Galloway, for instance, or in the Black
Isle, succeeded with it in the open ? Another
of our treasures, a Primrose of a peculiarly nice
shade of green, found by Lady Griscll Baillie-
Hamilton, is also in flower. The original plant
prospered so well at one time that plants were
given to several gardens, leaving a nice lot for
tliis garden. But they suddenly gave way, and
I could with difficulty save only three pieces from
the general doom, and, strange to say, every plant
of those dispersed went the same way. It was
equally vexatious to lose at the same time a small
piece of a double green the late Peter Barr favoured
nie with. — R. P. Brotherston, Tyninghame .
Prestonkirk.
Miniature Hyacinths.— Reading the note on
miniature Hyacinths by the Rev. J. Jacob on
page 114 uf March 7 issue, it seemed very
strange that he accurately describes another
variety under the name of Orange Boven, namely,
the so-called yellow Roman Hyacinth. This
variety is seemingly a true Roman, being thin,
tall and stiff of stem, with medium-sized bells
lightly and sparse!}' arranged. The flowers are
delicately perfumed, not so strong as the white
Roman, and for cut purposes even better and far
preferable to the general run of miniatures, which
sometimes, at least, are quite nasty things, both
as Hyacinths and flowers. The yellow Roman
does not force quite so early as the white variety,
and makes a much prettier pot plant. The
colour, again, is not yellow, neither is it orange,
but there are shades of both. Yet another
Hyacinth that on its merits deserves a note of
recommendation is a French variety called Couleur
de Chair. It forces rather easier than the miniature
forms, and is a much better pot plant. It is very
good as a February flower, and of a delicately
shaded rose colour, rather too deep for flesh,
as the name would suggest. Grown three or
four bulbs in a pot, it makes a charming and
welcome effect during a month when flowers
are greatly needed, especially of that colour.
A word concerning Tulips may not be out of
place. How many are there who, having to main-
tain a wealth of cut flowers, think of forcing
varieties of Darwins ! Some of these, by reason
of the long stems and large leaves, are very suitable
for cutting, and look exceedingly effective, the
colours being of varied and contrasting hues.
A few worth mentioning are Rev. Ewbank, Mrs.
Famcombe Sanders (brilliantly beautiful), Mme.
Krelage, Glory, Pride of Haarlem, Fra .■\ngelico.
Harry Veitch and Orion. One of the sweetest
Tulips in cultivation, and suitable to be grown
in pots and for gentle forcing, is Orange King, a
May-flowering type and exquisitely scented.
The rich colour alone is suflicient to recommend
it, — H. R., Twickel Castle Gardens, Holland.
March 21, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
143
Peat Moss Manure. — In the most interesting
letters that have appeared in the pages of The
Garden on this subject, all your correspondents
seem to have overlooked one great fault in its
use as manure, viz., the quantity of weeds that
invariably follow wherever it is dug into the
ground ; at least, that is my experience. At
one time it was used in the stables here. Mixed
with the straw manure I found it very good for
nearly all green crops, except for the trouble of
the weeds, especially a variety of Sow Thistle,
which no amount of heating or fermenting
the manure-heap seemed to destroy the vitality of
its seeds. — H. Reynolds, Scratby Hall, Great
Yarmouth.
liime in the Garden. — I have been very much
interested in reading in The Garden of February 28,
page III, an article by Professor Houston on the
uses of lime in gardens. The last paragraph
was, however, a great surprise to me, as he states
there that lime must not be used in planting
Potatoes. My experience is to the contrary.
Last year my gardener, when planting Potatoes
in drills 9 yards long, spread in each ijst. of
freshly ground lime, and then covered it over
with soil. The Potatoes were all sprouted at
the time. On lifting them in the autumn the
average yield was 5st. to each drill. The
quality of the Potatoes has been exceptionally
fine. I have constantly remarked during
the winter how good they were. I have had
lime recommended for dressing the lawns in the
spring. Can any gardening friends tell me if
they have tried it, and with what result, and also
what quantity should be applied ? — J. D.
Sparrows Eating YfiUow Crocuses. — In your
issue for March 7, page 113, there is a note on
the damage done by sparrows to yellow Crocuses,
and it is remarked that other colours are left
alone. I have seen it suggested that some sweet
juice is found by the birds in the petals and stems
of the flowers ; but this is hardly probable, as
the behaviour of sparrows when tearing the
Crocuses to pieces suggests annoyance rather than
pleasure. Nor are Crocuses the only flowers injured
in this manner. Polyanthuses often suffer severely,
but the pale shades are never attacked so ferociously
as the bright colours or those rendered con-
spicuous by a dark ring. According to my experi-
ence, the reason is to be found in the effect of
bright yellow upon the birds. Those who have
studied the subject of colour will know that red
inspires fear in birds and animals, while yellow
appears attractive, but often arouses excitement
amounting to irritation. I have known a brood
of chickens thrown into a state of panic by the
sight of a red object, while they pecked with
excited curiosity at a yellow one. It is puzzlmg
to say why birds should molest some yellow flowers
while others, equally bright, are left alone ; but
some plants, such as Winter Aconites, probably
possess an acrid juice distasteful to birds, while
taller subjects, such as Tulips, are more difficult
to injure than those nearer the ground. Spring
flowers, naturally, suffer the most, because later
in the year the greater predominance of colour in
the landscape would prevent a single species
from attracting much attention. Birds, too, are
in a far more excitable state in the spring, and
weather conditions may explain why more damage
is done one year than another. It is strange
that some gardens should suffer more than others,
but the position of the flowers may in some cases
keep the birds from attacking them. I myself
have noticed that Crocuses when planted in
small clumps are more severely injured than
those planted in large sheets ; but the whole
subject is full of interest, and possibly some of
your readers can throw more light upon it. —
(Miss) E. A. Patch, Aldbourne, Wilts.
Saxifraga burseriana and its Varieties.—
With further reference to Saxifraga burseriana,
"Alpinist's" note on page 114 of March 7 issue
raises an interesting question, which, I think,
it is most desirable should be discussed and
answered authoritatively before the forthcoming
Saxifrage Conference. I refer to the question
of whether the Saxifrages commercially listed
and sold as distinct varieties of S. burseriana
are, in fact, distinct. I think that I can solve
one at least of " Alpinist's " doubts. At the
present moment there is in flower upon a moraine
in my garden a plant of S. b. Gloria, one flower
of which can just, and only just, be covered by
a half-crown piece. This plant has not been
disbudded. It is true that it is a very small and
youthful plant, and has thrown a single flower-
stem only, but upon that stem it has at least
two, and possibly three, flowers. Among the
thousands of the finest possible examples of
S. biu-seriana type which I have examined, I have
never seen any single flower making any approach
to such a bloom of S. b. Gloria in point of size.
I think that " Alpinist " may be basing his judg-
ment, as I have sometimes done, upon specimens
purporting to be S. b. Gloria, S. b. major and so
forth, which in reality are nothing of the kind.
An important point to be borne in mind is that
S. b. Gloria does not come true from seed. Now,
I fear it cannot be disputed that seedlings of
S. b. Gloria are frequently sent out as S. b. Gloria
itself. As at present advised, I am unable to find
any definite differentiating feature in the so-called
variety S. b. major. My own burserianas (type)
are in every way superior to a batch of S. b. major,
which I was misguided enough to purchase at a
price considerably higher than the current price
of the type ; and I am decidedly of opinion
that the ever-increasing multiplicity of names
is, from every botanical and horticultural point
of view, unjustifiable. But in the case of S. b.
minor there is no longer the least doubt that the
matter is different. S. b. minor is at least a fort-
night later than the type in flowering. Its habit
is altogether distinct, being compact and cushion-
like, while its flowers are very much smaller,
and borne upon shorter and more slender stems.
It has been suggested to me that there is a differ-
ence in the number of anthers in these varieties ;
but this is not so, since in all forms the number
is normally ten. I must not trespass further
upon your space to go into the questions aroused
by S. tridentata and so forth ; but I should,
in conclusion, like to draw the attention of your
readers to a delightful novelty which I saw upon
Mr. Tucker's stand at the meeting of the Royal
Horticultural Society on the 24th ult. This form
is named S. crenata. As its name implies,
it has crenated or notched edges, and is both
dainty and altogether distinct from any other
form. — Raymond E. Negus, The Lawn, Walton-
on-Thames.
FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
March 24. — Royal Horticultural Society's Ex-
hibition : Lecture at 3 p.m. on " Pruning Shrubs,"
by Mr. E. Beckett, V.M.H.
March 26. — Manchester and North of England
Orchid Society's Meeting. Royal Botanic Society's
Meeting.
PRUNING ROSES.
WHY IT IS NECESSARY.
PROBABLY there is no subject that
has been so much discussed and
written upon as pruning Roses, and
yet, judging from letters received,
there are numbers of readers quite
at a loss to understand its mysteries.
And yet there should be no mystery, for the most
casual observer of our wild Roses will see that
Nature has endowed them with remarkable
recuperative powers, so that when old gro\vths
have exhausted themselves by abundant bloom-
ing, there are other and younger growths springing
up from the base to carry on the decorative work.
It is the same with our modem Roses. Let
anyone examine a well-grown bush or standard,
and he will observe several fine shoots that have
emerged close to the base of the plant, and which
seem to appeal to us to cut away some of the
older growths to afford them light and air wherem
they may develop.
What to Cut Away. — As to how much one should
prune back a certain Rose only needs a little
observation to determine. Siurely, where Nature
has given a Rose, such as Hugh Dickson, the
power to send up a growth from 7 feet to 12 feet
in height, it would be madness to cut such a growth
as close down as one would a Rose of the type,
say, of General Macarthur. I would, therefore,
while giving some general hints, counsel readers
to observe for themselves, and, above all things,
if the work of pruning must be relegated to that
much-abused man, the " jobbing gardener," set-
that the plants are not all shorn alike, as if some
sheep-shearer had been at work.
An instance of what I might term " unorthodox "
pruning came under my notice a year or two ago.
A large collection of garden Roses, planted two
years previously, had made splendid growth, and
as the winter was a mild one, the gardener deter-
mined he would not prime severely. All the
previous year's growths were retained almost full
length, and merely old wood cut out. The result
was a glorious mass of bloom. The evil of this
practice would be that the plants woiUd not pro-
duce such good basal growths as they would have
done if pruned more severely, so that another year
the plants would be somewhat imshapely, unless
care were taken during the summer to prune back
some of the growths. I am quite persuaded that if
we were sure of our winters not harrning the wood,
many of our glorious Tea and Hybrid Tea Roses
could be allowed to grow into quite h\ige bushes,
feeding them generously, of course, so that the
extra demands upon the plants' resources could
be satisfied. It seems like a fairy tale to read of
plants of Papa Gontier and such-like Roses growing
into bushes larger than Lilacs in the sunny Riviera,
where they may be seen lining railway tracks,
overtopping fences, &c. I have seen something
similar in sunny Devonshire, so that all who
are fortunate enough to dwell in such salubrious
districts must not treat their Roses as becomec
necessary to those who dwell in a colder part,
for it is absolutely fatal to successful Rose culturi'
to attempt to obtain blooms from growths tha'.
have had their pith browned by frost. I believe
the retention of such wood has caused many
disappointments. I think it was at Ulverston
that about two years ago an amateur ex-
hibited some of the grandest blooms of Mrs.
Foley Hobbs that have ever been seen, and they
were cut from unpruned bushes growing near
144
THE GARDEN.
[March 21, 1914
the sea among Apple bushes. The Roses had been
highly fed with chemical manures, and there they
were, a feast lor the eyes.
We frequently, in cottage gardens, meet with
most remarkable specimens of La France and other
Roses that have had very little pruning, specimens
we have all envied, which have left us pondering
that we who make Rose-growing our profession
have much to learn, even from the humble
cottager. It is much a case of environment.
Notice how a plant of Marie van Houtte will
attain to a height of some 20 feet when upon a
congenial wall ; whereas the same variety in the
open would need to be hard pruned if the winter
happened to be severe. Walls for
such Roses should be reserved,
wherever possible, and I hope
soon to see Roses of the type of
Lyon, Rayon d'Or and Willowmere
luxuriating thereon, for I am in-
clined to think the beautiful tribe,
the Pemetianas, are peculiarly
adapted to such a purpose.
Spring Frosts. — Unfortunately
lor us, there is always a big
" but " to remember. What a
glorious show of Roses we might
have "but" for the blighting
May frosts ! How promising the
growths are now breaking ; it
seems a crime to prune them
away, and yet, if retained, we
might have all spoUt by the
cruel frosts of spring. This year,
especially, we must harden our
hearts, for I think I never saw the
Roses so forward as they are now,
the beginning ckery upon the same lines.
Choosing a Site. — When one's
ground measures, let us say, lOO feet
by 50 feet, it is little use brooding
over which portion of our domain
we shall devote to the alpine garden ;
and, providing there are no over-
hanging trees and two-thirds of
the space receives a fair amount of
sunshine, it is quite possible, as in
my own case, to devote the whole
to the scheme in hand, and, what is
more, decoratively furnish it in
every part.
The Building Material. — The
next problem which confronts the
rock gardener is building material.
I would like here to emphasise the
fact that usually the man with a
small garden often has the added
disadvantage of a shallow pocket,
and however desirable it is to
employ the most perfect material,
such as mountain limestone {and no
one appreciates more than I do the
decorative value of beautiful stone),
it is often beyond the range of the
gardener to obtain such for a reason-
able outlay. Anywhere in my neigh-
bourhood such stone will cost from
15s, to 20s. per ton by the time
it is delivered, and supposing
that thirty tons are needed, the cost
is often prohibitive. Writers of
considerable experience often suggest
that real stone is necessary for the successful
cultivation of alpine plants. While the term
" success " is, I agree, a difficult one to define,
1 do, with all respect, emphatically differ from
them, and, so far as my experience goes, nothing
is so likely to turn the " would-be alpinist " from
his project as too much emphasis on this particular.
My own garden shows that it is easily possible
to cultivate, with a very considerable degree of
success, the great bulk of alpine plants, including
many of the choicest, without a particle of real
stone ; and I should strongly urge those who are
placed as I am to employ the concrete lumps
frequently obtainable near London, and which,
I believe, come from beneath the City roads when
the latter are being relaid.
Having decided upon the matter of " rock,"
the next item is soil. The garden in question will
doubtless furnish some amount, especially if it
is decided to lower one portion of the ground so
as to increase the height of the slopes and possibly
form a pool, by the margin of which many water-
loving plants will find a congenial home. This
can be augmented by a few loads of loam and more
of sand — even if the latter is only sweepings from
gravel roads. A quantity of builders' refuse is also
a very great help, and the coarser portions of this
latter can with advantage be spread over the site
to act as drainage, should the natural soil, as in
my case, be of a close, clayey nature. Having
heaped the earth (after well mixing) in the
varying masses we wish the design eventually
to .take, and having decided where the main
paths are to be, it is well to start at the
lowest point and begin building.
When several are in position, well pack the gritty
soil behind them so as to make all finn and solid.
After roughly levelling, proceed to place the next
higher tier. While a rock bank must be more or
less in the form of terraces rising one above the
other, care must be taken to avoid formality
and to vary the outline by employing blocks of
various shapes and sizes ; while often a good effect
can be secured by breaking across a terrace with
two pieces lying at an angle. Arrange for the
ground to slope at varying degrees of steepness in
different parts. Where a gentle incline is being
formed, it is frequently possible to secure an
excellent effect by allowing a promontory t^i jut
VERONICA RUPESTRIS FURNISHING THE PATH EDGE.
Making the Paths. — Every effort should be
made to make the paths as irregular as possible,
both in the horizontal and vertical direction, thus
getting as far as possible from the formal, though
care should be taken to make them sufticiently
wide to avoid damage to the plants which will
eventually mantle the rocky slopes adjoining.
Where the path dips, it is better, I think, to form
it in a series of steps.
Placing the Rock. — To return, however, to
the building. The first thing to do is to well ram
the seating, and at the same time give a slight
inclination inwards and towards the bank of soil,
at the base of which the work is being started.
Upon this spot place the first " rock " in such a
way that it lays firmly and also has its most
decorative face outwards. Next to this put
block No. 2, locking them together by their pro-
jecting ends, so as to leave no space between
them through which the soil will leak, or, failing
this, stopping the opening with a smaller piece.
out, as though an extra large outcrop was emerging
there.
Where the rock bank slopes to the path, arrange
for it to fall in a steep buttress in one place, as
though a strong shoulder was holding up the
mass ; then, after making a little bay or inward
curve from the path, to come forward again,
this time as a more gently rising spur. When
viewed from a little distance, the slowly rising
buttress will show up in pleasing contrast to the
more vertical one. Always use the most select
pieces of stone for these promontories, since the)-
can well be left less draped with verdure than
the remainder, and so give force and character
to the whole. Each stone, no matter what its
size, should be so firmly placed and wedged as
to be immovable if stood upon, while the earth
must always be well rammed behind to form a
solid foundation for the higher parts to
rest on. Reginald A. Maley.
iTo be continued.)
162
THE GARDEN.
[March 28, 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
Late Vineries.— All late Vines will be well
■on. the move now, and should not be subjected
to much fire-heat ; 55" at night will be quite
high enough. When the buds become prominent,
the Vines should be carefully tied to the trellis,
and disbudding accomplished as soon as it can
be ascertained which are the most promising.
Very little air will be necessary for some time,
and this should be admitted early in the day,
shutting up the house early in the afternoon to
secure a good rise of temperature by sun-heat.
The walls and border may be syringed several
times daily to promote a moist atmosphere. The
temperature of
Muscat Vineries should not be allowed to tall
below 70° at night, especi.illy during the flowering
period, and at this stage the atmosphere must
be kept moderately drv and the pollen dispersed
by means of a bunch of soft feathers or a rabbit's
tail tied to a light stick. The trellis should also
be shaken several times during the day. When
a good set has been secured, the border should
be examined, and, if necessary, a good watering
•of clear water given.
Plants Under Glass.
Chrysanthemums.— The early struck plants
will now be established in 6-inch pots, and should
be given as much air as possible during favourable
weather to keep them from becoming drawn.
Remove the lights during mild days and replace
them at night. Watering must be carefully
attended to, giving the plants a good soaking
of clear water when necessary. There is nothing
more detrimental than frequent dribbling with
the water-pot when the soil is neither wet nor dry.
Carnation Souvenir de la Malmaison.— These
plants will now require a little shade during the
hottest part of the day. Never allow them to
sufier from want of water at the roots, and feed
them frequently with some approved manure.
Young plants should be grown in cool quarters,
no fire-beat being necessary. Keep a sharp
look-out for aphis, and fumigate before it becomes
established.
Sweet Peas in Pots should now be ready for
their final potting. Make the soil firm about the
roots, and place the plants in a well-ventilated
house and fully exposed to the light. When
established, frequent waterings of liquid manure
should be given.
Winter-Flowering Pelargoniums. — For this
purpose young plants should now be ready for
potting into 4-inch pots, and when they become
well rooted the tops should be pinched in order
to produce bushy plants. Do not allow them
to become stunted for want of root room, but
pot again as soon as necessary,'. The soil may
consist of two-thirds turfy loam and the remainder
of leaf-soil, and this should be made moderately
firm.
The Flower Garden.
Sweet Peas raised in pots for planting in the
flower garden should be exposed to the weather
for eight or ten days before they are planted in
the open. The ground for this purpose should
be thoroughly trenched and manured if the best
results are expected, and protection from rough
wind must be provided by placing evergreen
branches round the plants as soon as they are
put out.
Violas and Pansies. — These should be planted
out with as little delay as possible. If raised from
autumn-struck cuttings and wintered in cold
frames, they should be nice stocky plants now,
and, if carefully transplanted, may be expected
to flower freely in April and May.
Calceolarias in Cold Pits. — The leading points
should be carefully pinched out in order to produce
numerous side shoots. If space is available in
a cold pit, they will benefit by being transplanted
into finely sifted soil, allowing a space of 9 inches
between the plants.
Seedling Bedding Plants. — Antirrhinums,
Pentstemons, East Lothian Stocks and other
seedling plants should be pricked out as soon as
large enough to handle. Place the boxes in gentle
heat until the plants have recovered from trans-
planting, after which they may be grown in a cold
frame ; but protection' from frost should be
provided.
Propagation of Bedding Plants should be
finished as quickly as possible, either by seed or
cuttings, as the time is approaching when many
of them will require hardening off. Lobelias
may still be raised from cuttings. Carpet bedding
plants may be rooted in boxes, where they may
remain until required. If large quantities of
Altemanthera are required, a hot-bed may be
made up for the purpose and covered with finely
sifted soil to the depth of 4 inches. The cuttings
may be inserted in this, and will quickly make
roots ; but care must be taken that the heat is
not too strong.
Hollyhock Plants which have been wintered
in cold frames should be planted out as soon as
possible. If grown in large clumps, they form
very conspicuous objects during the summer
and autumn.
The Kitchen Garden.
The Sowing of Seeds. — The heavy rain so far
experienced during March has seriously delayed
the sowing of many small seeds ; but, although
rather late, it is better to defer sowing for some
time longer than to trample on the ground while
wet, especially if the soil is of a heavy nature.
Potatoes. — The planting of early varieties
should be finished as soon as possible. If the
tubers have been started in boxes, it is necessary
to plant verv carefully, or some of the young shoots
may be broken. Sufficient space must be allowed
between the rows to allow light and air to pass
freely among them. The planting of second-
early varieties may be pushed forward, covering
the sets with 4 inches of fine soil. It is very
important that all tubers for future plantations
should be laid out singly, so that the young shoots
may not become drawn, and for this purpose a
well-ventilated shed should be chosen.
Celery. — If seeds were sown in February,
the plants should now be ready for pricking into
boxes of fine rich soil. If space is available in
cold pits, the young plants may be transplanted
into these, allowing a space of 6 inches between
them each way, so that a good ball of soil may be
lifted with each plant when they are placed in
the trenches.
Beet. — A sowing of Globe Beet may now be
made in a sheltered spot for the supply of roots
early in June. Sow in drills a foot apart and
cover with an inch of fine soil. Beet in store
should be frequently examined and all young
growth removed.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Peas. — From now the main crop of Peas may
be sown, and to keep up a succession it will be
a good guide to sow as soon as a former lot has
come through the ground. The taller and larger-
podded varieties will require to be sown much
thinner, and also allowed more room between the
rows. Perhaps the best way of seciuring a constant
supply of Peas of the best quality is to break
up the other crops with an occasional row. This
will provide a shelter to the lower-growing subjects,
and at the same time enable the Peas to get well
developed.
Seakale. — The smaller roots secured from crowiis
before forcing may now be planted out, and this
on ground that has previously been well manured.
If these roots were placed in a cool house as advised
some time ago, growth will now be started. As
in the case of sprouted Potatoes, it will be well
to reduce the sprouts to one before planting.
Turnips. — Continue to make a sowing of some
of the earlier varieties, and, as in former sowings,
give the ground a good dressing of lime, which
will assist to ward off the fly that proves so
troublesome in the seedling stage.
The Flower Garden.
Violas. — If flowers are removed from the young
plants until they are established, they will continue
blooming throughout the year. At Hopetoun
we grow many thousands, chiefly of the variety
Come to Stay, which are used to carpet the ground
under Roses. The effect is very striking indeed.
It would not, of coiurse, be wise to plant them
among choice Roses, or where they are required
for exhibition purposes ; but for ordinary decora-
tive varieties there is much to admire in this
style of decoration. The Viola I have mentioned
seems to stand the drought better than any other
variety I know.
Annual Lupines. — These are now regarded as
one of the most popular hardy annuals of recent
years, well deserving a prominent place in any
garden. ,\s they do not bear transplanting,
they must be sown where they are to flower. To
ensure that the young plants will not suffer from
slugs just as they are coming up, I find it a good
plan to sift some fine soil and ashes, and place it
on the border where it is intended to sow them.
The seed may be sown now very thinly, and
aftenvards thin out well, as each plant will make
a fine specimen. Hybridus atrococcineus and
mutabilis, cream and white, are two of the best,
and will be found to be invaluable for cutting.
Melianthus major. — This handsome subtropical
subject, so useful as a dot plant in the flower garden,
and possessing as it does such beautiful Fern-like
foliage, never fails to attract attention. Seed
sown now in small pots and grown on in a little
heat will make fine plants by the beginning of
June, which will be soon enough to risk planting
them out.
Pruning Shrubs. — A start may now be made
with the pruning of evergreen shrubs, such as
Laurels and Yews ; but it will be wise to defer
interfering with Box trees for some time yet.
The pruning of Laurels should, as far as possible,
be done with the knife.
Plants Under Glass.
Tuberoses. — Bulbs should be potted as soon
as they arrive, as they are so liable to damp if
kept any time in bags. The small bulblets should
be rubbed off before potting, for as the bulb is
of no value after the first year, there is nothing
gained by retaining these. After potting, place
them under a stage, where they may be covered
with a little loose hay, which will prevent the soil
becoming dry. They should be brought on in
batches as required, and as soon as growth com-
mences keep them close to the glass, otherwise
they are inclined to grow rather tall.
Winter-Flowering Carnations. — Early rooted
cuttings which have been stopped will now require
repotting, and should be placed in a cool house ;
indeed, they may be kept in this house all the
season, provided one is assured of sufficient light
and air. Many growers place them in frames
or out of doors during the summer, chiefly in the
South ; but in the less congenial climate of the
North I think this is a mistake. Stop all shoots
that may run to bloom until June, which in the
Northern Counties will be found to be late enough.
Where one has an old house at command, one can
grow a batch on the bench system, and, if not
stopped after this date, they will give a fine supply
of flowers in early November. These benches
or boxes need not be more than 6 inches deep,
and a sufficient length so that they can be moved
when not in use.
Coelogyne cristata. — In many cases this useful
Orchid will have passed out of bloom, and will
claim attention in removing some of the oldest
of the pseudo-bulbs, and, in a few instances,
repotting. This Orchid resents being disturbed
at the roots, so that established plants should
not be disturbed unless absolutely necessary.
When growth commences, give liberal supplies
of water, and later on liquid manure may be given,
though only in a weak form.
Fruits Under Glass.
Vines. — As growth advances, a light sprinkling
of some good Vine manure may be applied to
the border from time to time. This will be readily
taken up where the roots are near the surface.
Fruit on pot Vines will be nearing the colouring
stage, and a little more air may be adinitted.
Exercise great care in watering to prevent splitting.
Vines coming into flower will require a mean
temperature of 60° to 65°, allowing it to rise 15°
with sun-heat. During this period the house
should be kept somewhat drier during the day.
Muscats must" have a higher temperature when in
bloom. John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hcpetoun Gardens, South Queensferry, N.B.
March 28, 1914.'
THE GARDEN.
16S
SEASONABLE NOTES ON
VEGETABLES.
Onions. — For general use the main crop ot
Onions is distinguished from exhibition bulbs
by the fact that they are grown entirely in
the open. The month of March is the general
time for sowing the seed. The ground will have
been heavily manured and dug in the autumn,
and left* in as rough a state as possible for the
wind and frost to pulverise the surface. Give
the plot a dressing of wood-ashes, soot, lime and
load grit if the natural soil Is of a heavy, tenacious
character. Choose a dry day to fork over the
surface 5 inches deep, breaking the clods as the
work proceeds. Allow it to settle down for a
lew days. Choose again a dry day
to rake over the surface, removing
the large stones and any rubbish.
If the soil is light in character,
tread the surface firmly over and
rake again before sowing. Draw
shallow drills with the comer of
a hoe, sow the seed, and cover
with a compost of wood-ashes,
soot and old potting soil, with
a handful of lime added. This
addition, where the soil is heavy, is
an inducement to quick growth.
With the heels fill in the drills
.ind rake evenly over. Exhibition
Onions should be now well
hardened off in cold frames, in-
ducing the growth to be made as
sturdy as possible. Prepare the
site for planting, as the weather
permits, by spreading soot, wood-
ashes and lime over the surface,
lightly forking the soil over in dry
weather, and thus, as opportunity
occurs, planting may proceed as
quickly as possible. With a trowel
take the plants- out of the boxes
with as large a ball of soil as
possible attached to the roots.
■\Ilow 15 inches between the rows
:md from i foot to 14 inches from
plant to plant.
Potatoes. — The main crop should
now be got in as fast as possible.
This will allow a long season of
i^rowth, which is an all-important
point, especially if drought sets in
in May or June, as is sometimes
the case. Those tubers that root
early will withstand drought so
much better than those more
recently planted. The ground will
have been previously manured in the autumn
and forked over preparatory to planting, which is
an incentive to tree growth. The best plan is to
dig the ground and plant as digging proceeds, with
the exception of the late batch, which may be
planted in the field or between fruit trees, where the
plough will aid planting. To grow good Potatoes,
ample space is required to allow of free develop-
ment of haulm and leaves. One, or at the most two
shoots are ample to each tuber. Those sprouted
in boxes can be regulated in this by rubbing off
surplus sprouts. The midseason sorts should
be 15 inches apart in rows 2 feet wide. The
later sorts, of which The Factor is a type, need
30 inches of space, or a yard where the soil has
been heavily manured. Where the soil is heavy,
cover the tubers with a compost of wood-ashes
and old potting soil, with a small quantity of
leaf-mould, as this will encourage quick root
action and accelerate the growth. Where farm-
yard manure is scarce, especially for the late
varieties the following is a good substitute,
sprinkled over the tubers in the trenches at
planting-time per acre : 5cwt. of superphosphate
(35 per cent.), ijcwt. of sulphate of ammonia
and rcwt. of muriate of potash.
Broccoli and the various sorts of winter greens
should now be sown in the open, including Brussels
Sprouts for a late crop. Sow the seed thinly,
covering with fine soil, with which is added a
small quantity of soot. Cover the beds with
netting to prevent birds of the linnet class devour-
ing the tiny plants the moment they show through
the pots in a cold frame until the plants are well up ;
then, outside, plunged in ashes, is the best p'acc.
This method is much better than either putting
in new plants from the open or sowing seed where
the plants are to grow.
Parsley. — Plants raised from early sovm seed
in boxes should now be put out on the borders
alongside paths, or in a well-prepared bed ni the
open if a quantity is required.
Leelcs. — The plants raised under glass will
now be hardening ofi in frames preparatory to
planting out. The trenches should be prepared
ready for their reception about the second
week in April. They should be 2 feet deep
and 18 inches wide. Break up the bottom of
the trench at least 6 inches deep, to allow of
free draining of water away from the roots.
On the top of this add 4 inches
— : of well-rotted manure. On the
! manure lay 3 inches of a prepared
compost of old potting soil, leaf-
mould and wood-ashes, adding to
each bushel of the compost two
double handfuls of fine bone-
meal, well incorporating the whole
together. E, Molynei'x
Swanmore Park, Hants.
LILY POOL AND STEPS.
{From ''House: and Gardens, by E. L. Luiyens.")
the soil. As the plants grow, remove all weakly
ones to ensure a more sturdy growth for those
remaining, and keep the beds free from weeds
for the same reason.
Vegetable Marrows should be sown in pots
in a frame or gentle heat to get them forward.
Plant the first batch under hand-lights or spare
pit-lights, which are a protection from frost.
Asparagus should have attention where the beds
were covered with short manure. This should be
lightly forked over, raking the rough portions
into the alleys, lightly digging this in, and here
plant Cauliflowers from the inside-raised plants.
Free the beds from weeds and give them a liberal
dressing of common salt. Sow two seeds in
a 3-inch pot for planting out next year, standing
BOOKS.
An Artist in Garden Plan-
ning.*— In the past architects
have often been lacldng in sym-
pathy with the horticulturist, but
it is now an accepted axiom that
architect and gardener should have
at least a knowledge of each
other's business and endeavour
to work in unison. In the case
of Mr. Lutyens, Mr. Weaver writes :
" One of the important happenings
in the career of Mr. Lutyens was
liis early acquaintance with Miss
Jekyll. Her great gift of gardening
served as a stimulus to his appre-
ciation, and led him to give the
large attention to garden design
which he has developed. It would
be difficult to exaggerate the im-
portance of her influence. Arclii-
tects find in gardens a just sphere
lor design, but they cannot be ex-
pected to have a wide knowledge
of horticulture. It is in the main
to Miss Jekyll that we owe the
rational blending of formal and
the natural in garden design,
which has harmonised the theories
of two contending and often acrimonious schools."
The first of the important gardens designed by
Mr. Lutyens for an existing house was made
in 1893 at Chenies, Buckinghamshire, for Adeline
Duchess of Bedford, of which gardens there are
many splendid illustrations. The steady progress
in the design and general picturesqueness, disclosed
in the more recently constructed gardens illus-
trated in this book, reaches its zenith probably
in those at Hestercombe (Chapter IX.). The
superb illustrations of " The Great Plat " at
Hestercombe, " The Main Terrace and Retaining
Walls," " The Rill and Arbour in the Rose Garden,"
* ''Houses and Gardens bv E. L. Lutyens," described
and criticised bv Lawrence Weaver ; 25s. net. C&uniry
Life Offices.
164
THE GARDEN.
[March 28, 1914.
" The Walled Pool Enclosure," " The West Water
(lardeii," "The Dutch Garden" and "The
Pergola " with its fine vista, not only show the
continual advance in style, but reveal the wonderiul
resource and ingenuity displayed by their creator.
To quote Mr. Weaver once again, " the Hester-
combe gardens are a creation, wherein human
imperfection of invention and of workmanship
has been brought down to its minimum. They
will long stand as a work of art to be admired
and an example to be followed. They prove that
an architect can be in unison with Nature and
that a formal garden can form part of a landscape."
Exigencies of space prevent our dealing at greater
length with this splendid work, which contains
no fewer than 400 pages of folio paper and nearly
600 superb illustrations, plans and diagrams,
reproduced in the best Country Life manner.
My Garden in Spring.*— it falls to our lot
irom time to time to review books dealing with
horticultiu-al subjects, some good and some other-
wise. For Mr. Bowles' book we have nothing
but praise. It is entirely different from some
which in recent years have been published, and
which have been practically glorified catalogues
written up to post-cards of some alpine plant
" a penny plain and tuppence coloured," inasmuch
as Mr. Bowles writes of plants and shrubs in his
own garden, and he writes, too, so vividly and
bewitchingly as to make one realise what a glorious
garden he possesses, or, rather, that his father
possesses, through having allowed his son to
garden for him. The marvel is how the author,
with the multitude of objects which engage his
attention, and all good works, too, for the benefit
of his fellow-man, finds time wherein to pay
attention to horticultural matters and to write
about them ; but he does so with great success,
as a perusal of his book will show readers. Mr.
Bowles writes in a crisp, refreshing style, and
there is a good deal of humour throughout. He
would be a bold man who would dare to criticise
Mr. Bowles in horticultural matters ; but if the
book has a fault, it is that in places it has a tendency
to be rather too botanical, and especially in the
chapter on Crocuses, which extends to thirty-
two pages. Some of the differences in species
are so minute as to remind us of water-marks,
&c., in postage stamps. It is only fair to bear
in mind that Mr. Bowles has been dubbed " Rex
Crocorum," and perhaps he felt in writing the
chapter that he must live up to the title con-
ferred on him. He writes with such enthusiasm
on Crocuses that he hopes to induce others to
follow in his footsteps, as he no doubt will, especially
as readers are told how to raise hybrids and how
to treat them from seed-saving time. Mr. Bowles
acknowledges gratefully the gifts of plants he
has had made to him, and it is evident that he
possesses the true gardening spirit of giving freely
to others instead of selling all he can, as is the
custom of some " amateur " gardeners. There
is every promise of Myddelton House possessing
a garden which will (if it does not now) rival
Canon EUacombe's ; in fact, it is evident that
it is stored with treasures, which thrive under
intelligent cultivation. It is gratifying to see
that Mr. Bowles is not an advocate for size alone
in flowers, as his remarks on page 123 to the effect
that he does not want to sit under the trumpet
of a Daffodil during a shower and that a small
man might feel nervous looking down some of
the Daffodil trumpets, which bid fair to become
as large as gramophone mouthpieces, are most
amusingly written. Mr. Bowles takes his readers
through his garden and describes his treasures
so realistically that one almost feels one's self
in his company and sees the plants before one.
The outcome of this book will be that the author
will receive innumerable requests from readers
to be allowed to see his garden ; and while some
enthusiasts will be welcomed by him, he may be
plagued, as Dean Hole was, by some people who
will persist in talking " about the newes.t baby
or discussing the latest scandal." The chapter
on Tulips is especially full of interest, but not a
word is said in favour of Tulipa mauriana, one
of the most brilliant and lasting of Tulips, and
purchasable withal for 5s. a hundred. Van
Tubergen rightly describes it as " a magnificent
Tulip." We are loth to close the book, which
every true gardener should read and read again.
Like the author's garden, it is a thing of beauty
and a joy for ever, and, considering how artistically
it is illustrated and how well it is printed, the
book should command a large sale.
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
Even/ department of korticulttire is represented in The
Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions
relating to matters itpon which they wish expert adviee.
The Editor tvekomes photographs, articles and notes,
but he ivill not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.
As regards photographs, if payment is desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainh/ stated.
It must be distirictlij understood that only the artual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright ivill be treated u'ith.
The Editor ivill not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.
Offices : 20, Tavistock Street. Covent Garden, W.C.
ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
ball of soil attached to the root?, and plaat them in fairly
rieh soil in tlic frame early in September.
ROSE GARDEN.
MANURE FOR ROSES (ii.).— Good fnrmyard manun-
may be applied to Kose-bcds now, or a mixture of 3lb.
of superpnosphate and lib. of nitrate or sulphate of
ammonia may be applied per rod at an early date. The
specimen sent for determination is the Cornel, or Cornelian
Cherry (Cornus Alas).
ROSE HELENE (D. C. S.).— This is one of the multiflora
lloscs, a sccdlinti of Crimson Kambler, producinij: fine
trusses of flowers of a delicate rosy pink colour. You
sliould pen down last year's growths, tliose that arc well
ripened ; then, when they liave blossomed, cut them away
s;o as to cncoiiraae other trrowths for.pejjcinc down next
year. The pest is probably the larvae of the daddy-lont;-
iei^s. Give the soil a dressing of Kleenzoil.an excellent soil
insecticide, to be obtained of Messrs. W. Voss and Co.,
Carlton Works, Millwall, London.
PRUNING A PENZANCE BRIAR HEDGE (R. A. S.).~-
As the bcdye was planted in -November last, we sliould
advise you, if the plants were fairly bushy, to cut
down close to the crouud one or two of the jrrowths, and
the remainder retain almost full len^^h. This will prevent
what you fear — a thinness at the ba«e. Where the growths
retained are pliant enouch, some eould be spread out a
little out of the perpendicular, which would have the
tendency to produce basal growths mthout reducing the
height of the hedge. In order to do this, a few unobtrusive
stakes could be inserted. In subsequent years cut down
one or two growths annually. If you desire a tall hedge,
a few stout posts should be inserted and some wires
attached so that you can secure the growihs into something
like order and, at the same time, enable you to spread them
out for the object pre\'iously mentioned. As regards
pruning weeping wictniraiana Hoses the first season,
it is best to leave them almost intact, excepting to remove
unripe ends. Open out the growths upon a frame of
wire or Bamboo. After the first blossoming you should
then cut away several of the growtlis quite close to their
base; the result of so doinc will be to encourage new gTO\"ths.
which will be for next year's blossoming. Do not defer
cutting out the growths later than the end of July.
• '• My Garden in Spring.'* by E. A. Bowhis, M.A.
prire 5s. net. London : Messrs. T. C. and E. C. Jack.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor intends to
make THE Garden helpful to all readers who desire assist,
ance, no matter ichat the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object ivill make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only^
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20. Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. lA'tterg
on busi7iess should be sent to the Pfblishek.
FLOWER GARDEN.
VIOLET PRINCESS OF WALES (York).— The small-
ncss of the ilowers, which is rather cunnuon this season
in this variety, may be the result of three causes : 1. The
plants may not have been vigorous when put in the frame,
owing to want of manure in the soil where growing in
the open. Tlie smallness of the leaves rather bears this
out ; or the plants may have had an attack of red spider
last summer, which would check their growth. 2. The
growth of runners is all against size of bloom. These
should he kept off the plants at all stages of their growth,
inside and outside. 3. Have the plants sulfered for want
of water in the frames ? If so. that would hinder size
being obtained. The great point about growing Violets,
double or single, lies in the preparation of the plants
before placing them in the frame. Early in April break
up into small pieces the old plants that have llowi iLd,
rejecting the central or worn-out portions. Transplanl
these in a fairly rich soil in an open site and a foot
apart. Encourage free growth by supplying water as
required, constantly stirring the soil about the plants.
Remove all runners as fast as they appear, which
will add strength to the plants. Lift with a good
MISCELLANEOUS.
LEAF-HOPPERS {Sussex).^ThG little insects on your
plants are leaf-hoppers, and often troublesome to a variety
of plants. They are very tenacious of life, and difficult
to eradicate when once they have obtained a footing.
Spraying with a nicotine wash in the evening would, no
doubt, kill a large number, but one spraying alone would
not be likely to be etfective. The best method, however,
would be fumigating with one of the excellent fumigants
now to be obtained, and a repetition of the fumigation
within two or three days, and possibly a third, for even
fumigation will fail to kill eggs of such pests.
APPLYING LIME AND CARBONATE OF LIME
(G. B. P.). — Ground quick (or unslaked) lime may be
used in the autumn, but it would be rather dangerous
to use it now. especially so if the Rose trees arc already
planted; oilierwJM' it is the best form in which to apply
lime to a tiea\y soil. Carbonate of lime may, however,
be used without fear, and will liavc a Iwneftcial elfect.
Purchase it in the form of ground chalk as finely ground
as you can get it, or as brokcn-up oyster-sliells. " Ground
garden lime " is a term which conveys no distinct meaning.
So long as the stable manure is immediately forked in,
it may be added, although lime has been applied. The
advice not to add the two together is given because
caustic lime, brought in contact with ammonia-containing
substances, such as stable manure, leads to the giving olf
of ammonia into the air. If the manure is buried, any
ammonia civen off would be absorbed by the earth. If
stable manure can be procured, we advise you to use
that, for artificial manures never have quite the same
beneficial ett'ect ujion the physical condition of the soil
as does stable manure.
LABOUR FOR FORTY-ACRE ESTATE {E. D.).—
The amount of labour required would of necessity vary
according to the class of .soil, the nature of the land —
Hat or otherwise — the acreage set apart for flower gardening,
and other things. The amount of labour, too, cannot
be regulated by the size of an estate ; it is wliat is demanded
from it that swallows up labour most of all. A kitcheii
garden of nine or ten acres of licht soil on level ground
would require about five men, and of lieavy soil about
seven. The degree of tidiness required is also a factor
to be reckoned with. In all the circumst-anccs, so far
as we know them, seeing only *' reasonable order " is
expected and no glass or bcdding-out arrangements are
mentioned, twenty-five men miglit prove sufficient.
We give this opinion, however, with some diffidence ;
and only after a personal knowledge of tlie estate and what
is demanded of it could even an approximately correct
answer bo given. For the tree stumps you cannot do better
than use wichuraiana Roses if the stumps are larue, or,
if not, the smaller-growing Ivies and Clematis JMrUmannii
nr C. Viticella in variety. Azara microphylla. I'.ii.iiiynni-'
radicans variegata and Cotoneastcr horizoutalis would
also provt! serviceable.
NAMES OF PLANTS.— ScoHts/i Gardener.— The Violet
is Amiral Avellan, exceptionally well grown. Pigeon
Ilou^e. — Sisyrinchiura grandiflorum (Spring Bill).
E. M. D., Kent. — Cyclamen per.cic\m\ flmbriatum.— —
Mrs. G.— Tulipa chisiana (L\dy Tulip). /?. 0. B.-—\,
Coronllla glauca ; 2, Escallonia macruntha ; 3. Berberis
Darwinii ; 4, Leucojum pulchellum; 5, cjinnot name with-
out tlowi'rs ; 6, Berberis stenophylla.
NAME OF FRUIT.— G. IF. j'eni-ms.— Annie Eliz;ibeth.
^fe3?i.
GARDEN.
-5^5"-
No. 22II.— Vol. LXXVIII.
April 4, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Transplanting Pampas Grass. — Anyone desirous
of transplanting or dividing this noble ornamental
plant will find the present time suitable. It will
be found advisable to trim off the leaves first, as
this makes the dividing of the clump much easier.
Some people set fire to the old leaves, and this is,
perhaps, the simplest method, but the fire must
be kept under so that the plant is not damaged.
The burnt appearance will soon be hidden by
new growth.
Transplanting or Dividing Hardy Ferns.—
Now ttat the period of rest for hardy Ferns is
passing and the roots are getting active for the new
spring growth, it is time to take in hand any trans-
planting or dividing that may be required. The
active state of the roots
and the absence of tender
and easily damaged
fronds enable the plants
to speedily establish
themselves after re-
moval. A good mulch-
ing of decayed manure
and leaves after planting
is done will be very
beneficial.
Top-Dressing and
Planting Asparagus. —
Established beds should
now be gone over and
top-dressed with a mix-
ture of loam and decayed
manure, forking a little
of the same material
into the alleys. Where
it is intended to make
a new plantation, the
present is a good time
for this work. In ground
suitable for this vege-
table it is a good plan
to make a sowing about this time, which in
many cases subsequently does better than if one
■or two year old crowns were planted.
Rose Conference at Biarritz. — The eighteenth
annual conference of the French Rose Growers'
Society will be held at Biarritz from May 29
to June I in conjunction with the Societe d'Acclima-
tation du Golfe de Gascogne. The programme
is an interesting one, for, besides tlie ordinary
sittings of the conference, there will be receptions,
dinners and other festivities, the chief of which
are excursions to King Alfonso's Palace of Miramar
at San Sebastian ; to Fuentarrabia, a quaint old
town close by ; a mountain excursion to the
Gorges du Pas de Roland ; and to Cambo, the
country of M. E. Rostand.
An Easily Grown Rock Plant. — Draba Aizoon
is now flowering freely, the small tufts being almost
hidden by the golden flowers. It is to be regretted
that such an easily grown and readily increased
plant is not seen more often in the crevices of
rockwork or similar places, for which it and the
well-known British species, D. aizoides, are
especially suited. Both kinds seed freely, and, if
the seeds are sown at once, plants are quickly pro-
duced large enough to handle for inserting in old
walls or niches in the rockery, where they make
a bright early display.
Primula denticulata and Its Varieties. — In
many gardens these Primulas are flowering to
perfection. They are among the earliest of the
PRIMULA DENTICULATA ALBA, A CHARMING VARIETY THAT FLOWERS IN EARLY SPRING.
hardy Primulas to open, and the heads of lilac
and white flowers often show colour as early as
February. It is in the early days of April when
they are seen at their best, and they are particularly
effective when planted in breadths in short grass
about the alpine garden. These Primulas like
moist positions, but the soil must be well drained,
for nothing is more certain to bring about failure
than stagnant water about the roots. The best
varieties of P. denticulata are alba and cashmeriana,
the latter having violet flowers with yeljov/ ryes.
P. denticulata is a native of the Himalayas, rather
like P. capitata in habit, but the flowers are larger
and different in colour.
An Interesting Parasite. — Although Lathraja
clandestina is a parasite, it claims attention as
one of the curious and not unlovely plants that
may be grown in garden or woodland where it
is fairly moist and shaded. It usually grows on
the roots of Willows and Poplars, but whether,
it is confined to these we cannot say, and at this
season it pushes to the surface of the ground a,
great number of flowering shoots, sometimes
covering from 2 feet to 3 feet square. These,
are a mass of whitish scales at first, from which
erect flowers with a purple corolla, ij inches long,
are produced. These are not easily compared
with other flowers. The upper lip forms a kind of
cowl over the stamens, and the lower one a pro-
jecting bracket, upon which insects may alight to
enter the flower. Large masses that are flowering
, in the Cambridge Botanic
Garden now are of
considerable interest to
visitors.
The Lesser Peri-;
winkle. — This . plant,:
Vinca minor, is of a most
accommodating nature,
for it will succeed under,-
very varied conditions.
In the first place, it is at,
home clothing a sunny
bank, in which position
it is, just now flowering
freely ; next, it is well
suited for carpeting the
groimd underneath trees ;
and, lastly, very few
evergreens will hold their
own in the smoky dis-
tricts of London as well
as this does. It will
succeed there, in situa-
tions where the larger
Periwinkle (Vinca major)
will. die out. When in a
healthy state, the foliage, of the lesser Periwink'.e,,
is of a rich green colour, and the blue flowers,
nestling among it have a very pretty effect.
Freesia Contrast. — A bunch of this in a vase
is very bright and light looking. The three smaV,er
segments of the perianth have a great deal of
deep orange marking upon them; in fact, the
centre and smallest one of the three is almost
all orange. The rest of the flower is ivory white.
A potful in a greenhouse makes a good show.
Like most of these hybrids,, the individual plants
branch much more than the old F. refracta alba, and
Contrast is no exception to the rule. It increases
freely, so, although it is expensive to buy in any
quantity at present, a small stock, will soon
provide plenty for cutting and for pots. i . .
166
THE GARDEN.
[April 4, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
(The Editor is not responsible /or the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
Road Sand : A Caution.— At one time the sion of alj others. I keep in mind the French
Viola Jackanapes. — In your issue dated
March 28 a correspondent, Mr. T. Smith, says
he is unable to obtain Viola Jackanapes. This
variety is offered by Messrs. Forbes of Hawick
in their 1913 catalogue at 2s. 6d. per dozen or
15s. per himdred, so 1 expect they still catalogue
it, and if your correspondent is anxious to get
it, he should apply to this firm. — C. M Bailey.
Plums from the Cape. — The article in your
issue of March 14, page 135, on Japanese or
Cape Plums was most interesting, and while in
one part of the article Mr. Bunyard rather suggests
that to grow these Plums (as from experiments
already made in this country out of doors) would
be a failure, yet at the end of his article he as
much as says that they would be a success on
walls. I am writing, therefore, to enquire whether
any readers of The Garden have ever succeeded
with these Plums on walls out of doors, and whether
the crops have been worth the space on the
walls ? — W. F. M. CopEi.AND.
Erica carnea on Limestone Soil. — In your
issue of March 14 you ask for further information
as to the behaviour of Erica carnea in limestone
soil. Some years ago I planted it and its white
variety on a small limestone rockery, the soil
of which consists almost entirely of old mortar
rubbish. I found that it throve far too well
for the space accorded it, and I was obliged tn
remove it to make room for plants of less vigorous 1 l^_
growth. It is a pity that any of 5'our readers I
should avoid growin g
this beautiful little shrub ^ " "~ - -
(in my opinion the best
of the Ericas) owing to
the mistaken notion that
it shares with others of
its tribe a dislike to lime
in the soil. ■ — Norman
RusHWORTH, Beechfield,
Walton-OH-Thames.
Lime for Lawns.— A
correspondent asks in
your issue of March 21
what effect lime has upon
lawns and the amount
to be applied. I would
say that nearly all old
lawns would be benefited
by a dressing of lime,
especially if the turf were mossy. Old lawns
are often inclined to be sour, and, of course,
it is well known that lime corrects the acitiity
of the soil. Again, where manures are used
containing a large proportion of nitrogen,
the soil will become surcharged with it and the
turf will suffer. A dressing of lime will set free
the ammonia, and thus turn what was harmful
into useful plant food. Lime, however, should
not be used too often, or it will impoverish the
soil. I should say that in cases where the turf
was regularly fed with artificial manure, once in
three or four years would be sufficient. In cases
where no manure was given, a dressing once in
six years would be often enough. Slaked lime,
finely ground, should be used, and it sh< uld be
evenly spread on a still day at the rate of 30Z.
per square yard. Autumn is the best time to
apply it, so that th' winter rains may put it all
out of the way befoie mowing commerces in the
spring. — J. Duncan Pearson, Lowdliam, Notts.
sweepings of the roads were looked upon as of
great service to the plant cultivator, being not
only spread upon the land, but also freely mixed
with potting soils. Now, with the increased use
of chemicals on the roads and the fact that motors
have to a great exFent taken the place of horses,
it is frequently dangerous to use road sweepings
in growing plants of any kind. — H. P.
The Leopard Moth. — Six weeks ago I was
pruning an orchard of trees which are six years
old. As I was taking off some suckers from the
scion where it was grafted, I discovered a hole eaten
in the scion. Naturally, I examined it carefully,
as the tree appeared to be in good health. I
cut the tree do«-n and found the hole was eaten
up the main stem. I discovered a very large
grub, which is, at the present time, embedded
in the Apple stem I have enclosed. You
will see how it is discharging the wood it
is living on. — William Gaiger, The College
saying that each one has a right to satisfy his
own tastes, and allow for personal proclivities,
even for those of " G.' L. J.," and trust in the
future he or she may be able to increase by twofold
at least the period of the season of bloom, which
is coincident to the strength of the plant, including
increase of stature. In reply to " F. R. H. S.,"
I grew Cottage Maid some years ago, and found the
name represented eleven colour variations. It has
probably improved since. — R. P. Brotherston.
Myosotidium nobile. — It may interest your
correspondent Mr. Brotherston, whose note
appears on page 142, March 21 issue, to know
that the New Zealand Forget-me-not is quite a
success in the open in South-West Scotland.
The plants flowered and set seed freely last season ;
but, not having tested the seed, I cannot answer
regarding the fertility of it. It is said that in
its native isle this plant is to be found growing
on damp sand by the seaside ; therefore it is advis-
able, when preparing a site for it, to take out a
hole about two feet square and fill it with sea
sand. Like many other thick, fleshy-rooted
plants, this is most impatient of root disturbance.
A fine illustration of this appears here in a plant
that was transplanted two yearj ago and given
no sea sand ; it seems to have made no growth
since then. Some writers describe this as a
beautiful blue, but the flowers here do not warrant
that description, being very pale. The reason
may be that this is a variable plant, in that
there may be various shades of blue. Apart
from its flowers, it is a highly ornamental
plant for the garden during the spring and
summer, with its large,
heart - shaped leaves
and curious seed-heads.
The plants here are
growing in a cool, damp
position on the north
side of a dense Beech
hedge, which seems to
suit them admirably. At
the time of writing
(March 2i)there are many
flower-heads appearing,
which were exposed to
the following frost with-
out in any way damag-
ing either flower-buds or
foliage ; March 9, 15° ;
March 10, 8° (thermo-
meter on the grass). 1
Gardens, Stndlcy Castle, Warwickshire. [The 1 have no doubt it would prove sufficiently hardy
SECTION OF APPLE SHOOT BORED BY LARV^ OF THE LEOPARD MOTH
AND SHOOT HAVE BEEN SLIGHTLY ENLARGED.
THE GRUB
grub sent by Mr. Gaiger, and illustrated here-
with, is that of the leopard moth, Zeuzera
^sculi. This is a rather large moth, with
wings of white grotmd colour, freely spotted
with roundish blue-black dots. These moths
are not very common, though widely distributed
over this country. The grubs may be killed by
thrusting a stout wire up the gallery that has been
formed. Branches that have been attacked often
live for years and bear good crops of fruit. — Ed.]
Tall Antirrhinums. — It is obvious that
" G. L. J.," whose note appears on page 142,
issue March 21, has never seen really tall
Snapdragons, else the comparison to monstrosities
would not have been made. In my opinion they
are the grandest of all Snapdragons, and almost
rival the Hollyhock in stately beauty. The
only varieties for which I entertain a feeling
bordering on contempt are those of the dwarf
section, yet many people grow these to the exclu-
in many colder districts than this is if it was
given the protection of a little dry hay or Bracken
and a bell-glass over the crowns during severe
weather. — R. Findlay, The Gardens, Logan,
Stranraer.
When in Cornwall last week I called
at the beautifully situated gardens of Enys,
and, seeing Myosotidium nobile in such grand
condition, 1 asked Mr. Frost, the gardener, to give
me particulars of treatment. He stated : " As
you see, the New Zealand Forget-me-not grows
very freely here under a north wall, in peat and sand,
with a dressing of seaweed in early winter. It
flowers grandly, and produces seed in more or less
quantity, according to the summer, from self-
fertilised flowers. The seeds ripen in August, and
germinate quickly in cold frames if sown as soon
as gathered. The young plants have been
uninjured by 10° of frost, and the plants are
evergreen." — North Somerset.
April 4, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
167
Triteleia uniflora as a Pot Plant.— After the
very interesting little note and illustration of
Triteleia uniflora in your issue of March 14, I am
wondering if many of your readers try it as a pot
plant for flowering early in the year, with a little
heat. I have grown it as such for about twelve
years, and find it very useful for. furnishing the
front of the stages, also for standing around Palms
in vases in the house, as the leaves droop over the
sides and look very pretty. I generally use
3-inch pots, with about seven or eight bulbs in
each ; just pot them in the autumn and stand them
in a cold frame till the growths are about an inch
or 2 inches long, and then take them straight into
a house with a temperature of about 60°. They dn
not seem to mind a little forcing. I have found
they can be ripened off in their pots and potted
up again in the autumn. — E. Barber, The Gardens,
Brentor Hall, Surbiton.
Lachenalias as Room Plants.^l have read
with much interest the note in The Garden,
page T42, March 21 issue, by the Rev. J. Jacob
on the culture of Lachenalia Nelsonii as a room
plant. I agree with liim. Few take the trouble to
grow them well, but I am sure any gardener whi'
has not given them a trial would find them most
useful plants during February and March for room
and table decoration. I have grown these pretty
Cape Cowslips, as they are called, for forty years.
At the present time I have about two dozen pots
of L. Nelsonii in flower. They are equally good
for baskets, planted in moss and soil, and look
very dainty when suspended from the roof of a
greenhouse, but they must be well supplied with
water. I think the reason why so many do not
succeed in growing them well is that they do
not pay enough attention to ripening off the
bulbs, which I consider is so necessary for
successful culture. — W. Driver, Stonelionse,
Gloucestershire.
Cold Storage for Cut Roses. — A correspondent
asks for information about cold storage for
exhibition Roses. This is adopted, I believe,
by some of the American florists, and undoubtedly
there is much to be said in its favour from a florist's
point of view. I should imagine, however, that
it would scarcely work beneficially for the exhibitor,
because as a rule he has to contend with the
wretchedly ventilated canvas tents that are so
trying to the Rose. I think its success would
much depend upon the time of year and the
atmosphere the flowers were placed in after leaving
the cold storage. I remember, many years ago, that
some cut specimens of new Roses were sent over
from the United States in cold storage, and they
were exhibited in London as fresh-looking as though
only just cut. But this was in the winter-time.
I can see the advantage to a Rose exhibitor of
using cold storage if the blooms would not show
blemishes after being taken out, which I much
fear, as some Roses might be taken from one
show to another. Besides, we could retard a bloom
for a certain show day. If this is ever adopted
it will make a considerable difference to our ex-
hibitions. Perhaps some of our amateur enthusiasts
will experiment and give in these columns their
conclusions. — Danecroft.
Perpetual-flowering Carnations for Bedding. —
The very beautiful beds of these charming flowers
which are sometimes seen leads one to hope that
before long they will figure very largely in im-
portant schemes of bedding. At present there
are only two or three varieties which are used to
any great extent for bedding purposes ; but there
is no doubt that these will be considerably
augmented. Last, year I used Mrs. Burnett and
Britannia. The former was planted in a bed by
itself, over a groundwork of Sweet Alyssum. Part
of the plants used had already done good service by
flowering all through the winter months. The
plants were partly cut down in March and placed
in a light structure till the beginning of May,
when they were subjected to a course of hardening
off, together with some smaller plants which were
struck the previous autumn for the purpose of
bedding. Towards the end of June they com-
menced flowering, and continued to flower pro-
fusely till frost appeared late in the autumn. The
variety Britannia was planted in a mixed bed of
border kinds, and if any evidence was needed to
convince one that the perpetual kinds will one day
reign supreme outdoors, it was to be found here.
Apart from the perpetual nature of its flowering,
the colour and form of the flowers of Britannia were
equal to any of the border kinds. I have not tried
any other varieties outdoors, but I presume that
the drawback with most is that their flowers will
not stand the vagaries of our c'imate. But no
doubt the Carnation hybridists will before long
present us with varieties which will overcome this
difficulty. — E. Harriss, Lockinge.
Aster Disease. — I can fully substantiate the
remarks of " F. M. S." on the advisability of
treating Asters as hardy annuals. For many
years I have made it a practice to sow Asters
in the open ground at the latter end of April or
the first week in May, although, owing to insuffi-
ciency of space, I have not been able to allow all
to stand where sown. There is no questioning
the fact that Asters never do so well as when
grown without a check; and in transplanting at
a late stage the plants certainly get a severe
check, especially if dry weather follows planting.
The practice of sowing in the open is the recognised
system in the United States of America ; and
nowhere in the world are Asters grown on so
gigantic a scale and in such phenomenally good
forin as in America. Fully ten years ago I was
in the habit of sowing my seed in the open, and
it is astonishing to me why so many are addicted
to sow Asters under glass in heat. During my
connection with a Midland firm we always made
trial sowings of annua's in the open, and I have
never seen better Ten- week Stocks than these late
April sowings produced. I do not agree with
" F. M. S.'s " policy of non-thinning. If he handled
such varieties of ."Asters as Peerless Pink, Violet
King and the various late branching forms, and
desired to see them run to their 2J feet to 3 feet
limit, with flowers up to 7 inches, he would find
it necessary to give a full foot of space. Regarding
the immunity from disease of open-air sown
plants, this is largely, if not entirely, due to the
fact that the seedlings do not get leggy in their
early stage. " F. M. S.," by avoiding trans-
planting, entirely guards against the possibility
of the plants being set too deeply. On no account
must any foliage be allowed to touch the soil.
The lower leaves, if not c'ear of the ground, should
be removed, otherwise these commence to decay
and stem-rot follows. Plenty of lime in the
ground is essential. — T. W., Kent.
SEASONABLE NOTES ON
AURICULAS.
FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
April 6. — United Horticultural Benefit and
Provident Society's Committee Meeting.
April 7. — Royal Horticultural Society's Exhi-
bition. Lecture at 3 p.m. on " The Cultivation
of Amaryllis." Scottish Horticultural Association's
Meeting.
THE month of April will prove whether
the grower has been successful or other-
wise. A few of the alpine varieties
will begin to open their flowers, and.
by the end of the month a fine display
will be the rule in the majority of
collections. Few plants can equal Auriculas
for richness of colour, and they are still among
the choicest of flowers that bloom at this season.
Watering. — The plants should be looked over
daily for watering purposes, as they are now
most active, and the weather will also cause them
to dry more quickly than hitherto. Dryness
at the root must be avoided, or the flowers will
be ruined. A little more attention will be neces-
sary in regard to shading, and the blooms must
be protected by a thin blind from all strong sun-
light, although, when the flowers commence to
expand, the early morning sun will he of consider-
able benefit. Ample ventilation should be given
and the frames kept quite cool to prolong the life
of the spikes.
Preparing Plants for Exhibition.— The follow-
ing remarks are not intended for the exclusive
use of exhibitors, and the reader will notice that
some of the instructions given are just as necessary
for the amateur who keeps his plants at home-
as for the man who exhibits. In most instances-
a neat little green stick should be placed to each:
stem, and this is best done in the early stages of
growth, before the stalk is bent over by the weight
of the flowers, and the pips, as they are called by-
the florists, will in some cases require adjusting,,
so as to show off the truss to the greatest advantage.
Where the trusses are very dense, it will be
necessary to thin the buds, removing two or three
at a time with a pair of tweezers or small scissors..
With the alpines a lot of thinning is not carried out,
but the show varieties are subjected to more severe
treatment, especially the greens, greys and whites.
If the exhibitor can secure four or five good
flowers upon a stem, he is usually satisfied. They
must not be crowded, and each flower should be-
as perfect as possible.
The selfs are also thinned, but a few more-
flowers can be allowed to develop if the plant
is strong. The grower must use discretion im
these matters, and if he allows sufficient space to-
prevent undue overcrowding, a fine truss of blooms,
will be the result. See that the pots are clean,,
a clearly written label in each pot (or the reporter
may overlook your exhibit), and a layer of fresh
moss around each plant. Be very careful in
handling the plants, so as not to bruise the flowers,
or disturb the farina on the leaves and stems.
Saving Seed. — Where the beginner desires fo>
save some seed with the object of securing a few-
good varieties, it will be necessary for him to-
work on some such lines as given below. With
the show varieties a green edge should be enoss-
fertilised with another green-edgerl kind, a grey~
edge should be mated with another grey edge,,
and a white edge with a white edge. In the selfs
the colours should be kept together as far as possible,
and with alpines a gold-centred variety can be
pollinated with another go'd-centred kind, and so
on. Having selected a flower to be fertilised,
the anthers must be removed in the early stages
before the pollen is ripe, and if the plant is held
in a downward position, they will rr.-^dily fall to>
the ground. T. W. Briscoe.
168
THE GARDEN.
[April 4. 1914.
DAFFODIL NOTES.
The Season. — Winter has paid his annual
visit to the British Isles this year in March instead
of January. As George Stephenson said of the
hypothetical cow in front of a railway train, it
is " bad " for Daffodils when this icy, boisterous
visitor catches them, as it were, off their guard.
They do not like it. They feel that the Clerk of
the Weather, who is supposed to arrange all these
visits, has " taken them in." They cannot do much
to show their resentment, so they just sulk and
we get small flowers and short stems. I ruminate
thus to let our friends elsewhere
know what sort of a beginning
we have had with our outdoor
season. And yet the next Royal
Horticultural Society's Tuesday
meeting comes along, and there,
at any rate, there are few signs
of the unwelcome visitor.
Flowers at the Royal Horti-
cultural Society's Show on
March 24. — " Wilson is e.xhibit-
ing " has to Daffodil persons
much the same effect as " Glad-
stone is up " used to have on
members of the House of Com-
mons. They are seldom, if ever,
disappointed, for a Wilson exhibit
is always full of good new
things. It was no exception on
March 24. Perhaps the dis-
tinguishing feature was the fine
new series of the Schoot type
of Poetaz that have been raised
by Mr. P. D. Williams of St.
Keveme, Cornwall. He is our
principal English raiser of this
bunch-flowered class. His Rubel-
lite and Luoasta are both of
them remarkable developments,
in that they give us such red
eyes with such fine white
perianths. Rubellite I described
last year, and it is also in the
taovelty list of the 1913 Year
Book. The solid red eye, re-
ilieved in the very centre by the
green top of the perianth tube,
resting on a pure white perianth
about two and a-half inches in
diameter, is very delightful. This
pleasing impression is further
enhanced by the three or four
large blooms being so arranged
on the stem that they do not
Jostle and put one another too
much out of shape. Lucasta
is similar, but the eye is a
trifle smaller and more suffused
than solid ; that is to say, its
centre is of a much more orange shade than the
circumference. -At a little distance away I almost
thought it looked " rimmed." Personally, I
think I admired it more than Rubellite. It
depends how far one leans to the all red. Ossian
•was the only other on e that was named. It features
the Polyanthus Narcissus more than the others,
.and in my opinion was not to be compared to
•the other two, although its orange-toned large
•eye was efiective. There were several others
lunder number. Some I did not like and some
I did. In the latter category was a distinctly
good all yellow, which I think will develop into
something useful, but I cannot remember if it
had a long enough stalk. The other outstanding
featiure of the group was an early edition of the
now well-known Buttercup, but two weeks earlier
to bloom and of a much deeper shade of yellow,
following in this its mother King Alfred, as Butter-
cup does Emperor. The committee gave it a
garden and a cutting award. As a show flower
it does not come up to the older variety. Its
measurements are 3I inches diameter of the
perianth, li inches length of cup, and r inch
width at top. The "loving" eye, the eye of the
man who observes and asks and thinks, must
NARCISSUS
RUBELLITE OF THE POETAZ SECTION. THE FLOWERS
ARE PURE WHITE WITH A DEEP RED EYE.
have observed with a considerable amount of
surprise No. 153, quite a nice bicolor, with a
green water-mark down the middle of each petal,
like the yellow down the centre of the segments
of many Tulips. Not a Conqueror certainly,
but withal something to have in one's garden
among the early yellows and the early red cups.
These are becoming fairly common, but bicolors
are still rare. Tita, which was another fine thing
in this collection, is one of the above-named
early rod cups, and of so much value for the
garden and cutting that the committee gave it
an .Tward. It has a suffused cup and a good
yellow perianth. Size, 4 inches by five-eighths
of an inch by three-quarters of an inch. Both
Beryl and Bernardino were shown in superlative
condition. An exhibit of a totally diflerent
style was that put up by Messrs. Bath of Wisbech.
Roughly speaking, two-thirds consisted of well-
gro-wn Tulips in bow's, and one-third of a select,
fresh-looking little lot of rather choice Daffodils.
Flame occupied the central position, and on
account of the way in which my good friend
Mr. Bennett-Poe cracked it up a fortnight
before, I had a specially good look at it. To
all intents and purposes it is an enlarged and
intensified Barrii conspicuus. Mr.
Leak told me it was not doing
it justice to form an opinion
from the blooms that I saw.
It would be on view again
before the end of the season.
Hence I wait, as my readers
must also, before I make a
final pronouncement. Eastern
.Maid was the one absolutely
new variety to be seen
there. I know nothing of its
parentage, but its general shape
betokens a touch of cyclamineus
in its composition. It has the
thrown-back petals which are so
suggestive. These are wide and
pointed, and of a delicate greenish
primrose shade, which is very
taking. The cup is narrowish
and long, pale yellow in colour.
It was presented to the com-
mittee, who in return presented
it with an award of merit as a
show bloom. I like it very
much. It would ornament any
•■ fifty." I am told there is a
small stock of it, so perchance
it may be " buyable " before
long. Of the exhibits of Messrs.
Barr, Mr. Bourne, and Messrs.
Cartwright and Goodwin I will
wTite next week.
Registration of Names.— The
new Classification List is now
out, .and can be obtained for
a shilling from the Royal
Horticultural Society, Vincent
Square, Westminster. Mr. C. H.
Curtis, the secretary of the
Daffodil committee, is going to
put up a list of all the fresh
names sent in for registration
at the fortnightly meetings ol
the committee. The first 01. e
was put up on March 24, and
contained sixteen. This is an
excellent idea, for which we
owe our secretary many thanks.
It is provoking to fix on a name and find it
taken. But as the number of seedlings becomes
greater and greater, we all find it more difficult
to avoid pitfalls; hence the utility of this
publicity. Joseph Jacob.
[In our next issue the Rev. Joseph Jacob will con-
tinue his observations on the Daffodils shown at
the Royal Horticultural Society's show on March 24,
while brief descriptive notes on the four Narcissi to
gain awards appear on page 172. The illustration
of Narcissus Rubellite is reproduced by the
courtesy of Mr. P. D. Williams of St. Keverne,
Cornwall. — Ed.]
April 4, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
169
SEASONABLE NOTES ON
PEACHES & NECTARINES.
Trees Under Glass. — Although the trees are
hardy when allowed to grow naturally on open
walls in this country, the forced growth of the
trees under glass must not be checked by careless
ventilation during . frosty nights and while east
winds prevail. If the ventilation of the structure
is perfect, it is wonderful how well these fruit
trees thrive in an unheated house. In heated
houses the growth of the trees is now quite
forward. On every day that promises to be
bright and sunny, the fires must be stopped
about nine o'clock in the morning. A little
top ventilation will be beneficial,
but no front ventilation should
be given at present. The borders
and paths ought to be damped
in the early part of the day and
again after noon, the ventilators
being closed between three and
four o'clock. The young fruits
will be quite prominent and the
first thinning must be done.
This will consist of the removal
of ill-placed and small fruits ;
the largest ones on the fore
part of each branch must be
left now, to be reduced in
number at a later date. The
young shoots are several inches
long, and the final thinning of
them must not be delayed any
longer. On a shoot from 1 8 inches
to 2 feet in length, three young
ones should be left, namely, one
at the point, one near the centre,
and one quite at the base. On
shorter branches leave two young
shoots, namely, one at the point
and one at the base. Syringe
daily ; twice on fine days —
once early in the day and
again when the house is closed.
The thorough wetting of the
leaves keeps them free from
red spider and thrip, and,
furthermore, promotes a healthy
growth. As a further preven-
tive of red spider, scatter a
little soot on the border at
syringing time in the afternoon.
This should be done about once
a week. The ammonia arising
from the soot is beneficial to ^ BUSH OF
the Peaches, and prevents the
spread of red spider.
Trees in the Unheated House.— These will
require the same treatment as those in heated
structures, except in the matter of damping and
syringing. Less water must be sprayed on the path
and border, and only on very fine days must there
be an afternoon syringing as yet. The gradual
disbudding of shoots and fruits must be done while
both are small.
Trees Trained on Open Walls. — The blossom
must be protected from frosts. Pull down the
scrim, tiffany or nets in the daytime if heavy rains
I ire vail and there seems to be danger from frost at
night. Frost does more damage when the flowers
are wet than when they are quite dry. It is
beneficial to continue the protection of the tiny
fruits for about ten days. George Garner.
HARDY SHRUBS FOR THE
GREENHOUSE.
IN the depth of winter a few of our hardy
shrubs, such as the Laurustinus, Jasminum
nudiflorum. Erica camea, &c., with such
berry-bearers as Skimmias, Aucubas and
Pemettyas, contribute their share to the
embellishment of the greenhouse. It is,
however, in the early months of the year that
this structure depends largely for its show of
blossoms upon hardy shrubs that have been forced
prematurely into bloom. This practice of forcing
shrubs is now greatly on the increase, and immense
numbers are grown specially for the purpose.
WHITE LILAC MARIE LEGRAYE.
VARIETY FOR FORCING.
THIS IS A
Of the different subjects, perhaps the most popular
of all are the Azaleas, of which there is now a great
variety available. The compact-growing Azalea
mollis, which flowers in great profusion, has for
the most part blossoms of some shade of terra-cotta ;
but there are some improved forms, notably the
rich yellow Anthony Koster. The Ghent Azaleas
are also amenable to forcing, though they are not
so generally employed as A. mollis. In the Ghent
kinds the flowers are, as a rule, smaller, but the
range in colour is more extensive than in A. mollis,
while they have also a more pronounced perfume.
Next to these may be mentioned their near
allies, the Rhododendrons, which are very showy
imder glass. Many of them, however, do not force
readily, as, if kept too warm, the flowers will
grow blind. Good kinds lor the purpose aie
R. arboreum wellsianum, R. Blanche Superbe,
R. caucasicum album (Cunningham's White),
R. c. pictum, R. mirabile, the different forms of
R. nobleanum and R. Prince Camille de Rohan.
Besides these, the small-growing kinds, such as
R. praecox, R. Rosy Bell and R. Early Gem, are
very readily forced.
Many rosaceous plants contribute largely tO'
the floral display in our shrubberies in early spring,
and a great many of them will do well tmder glass.
Among them may be mentioned the. double-
flowered Peaches and Cherries, with several
I of the smaller-growing forms of Pyrus. . Of all
plants belonging to the order, there are no greater
favourites for forcing than the double forms of
Prunus japonica and P. triloba,
both of which are grown for
the piu"pose in very large , num-
bers. Kerria japonica flore
plena, with its rich golden blos-
soms, like little Ros_es, must
not be passed- over in any
selection, while some of the
Spiraeas claim to be included,
the best being S. arguta, S.
confusa and S. pruuifolia flore
plena, this last being remarkable
for its tiny double, rosette-like
blossoms. Magnolias, too, are
very strrking, not only such as
M. Lennfii, with its large, chalice-
like blossoms, but some of the
smaller kinds, notably the charm-
ing little M. steUata, so recently
illustrated in The Garden.
Lilacs are, and have been for
many years, forced in large
quantities. Immense numbers of
sturdy little bushes bristling
with flower-buds are sent to
this country from the Continent
every year. The single white
Marie Legraye is the most popular
of all. Another that is largely
grown is Charles X. Of double-
flowered kinds, Mme, Lemoine,
white, is grown more than any
other.
Deutzia gracilis has for the
last fifty years or more occupied
a foremost place among shrubs
for forcing, and at the present
time its position is as secure as
ever. Of the newer kinds, the
larger-growing D. Lemoinei forms
SPLENDID a very suitable companion to it.
A subject that has come
largely to the front withia
recent years for flowering under glass is Wis-
taria sinensis, as when this is grown in standard
form the long, pendulous racemes of mauve-
coloured blossoms form a very striking and
distinct feature among its associates.
Apart from the different subjects enumerated
above, there are many others, all of which are,
available for the same purpose. Among them
may be mentioned the Brooms, Forsythia suspensa,.
Weigelas, Staphylea colchica, the Guelder Rose
and its Japanese form, with the orange-coloured
Berberis Darwinii. A valuable shrub for green-
house decoration, though it cannot be had in
bloom early, is Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora,
whose massive, pyramidal-shaped heads of cream-
coloured flowers ars very ornamental. H. P.
170
THE GARDEN.
[April 4, 1914.
ANNUALS IN THE ROCK
GARDEN.
A'
a general rule, the cock garden is pre-
supposed to be a type of herbaceous
border where only perennial plants
may be grown, but amateur readers
must realise that there are many
annual flowering plants quite amenable
to successful culture among the rocks and stones ;
indeed, the introduction of a nice blending of
colours by this means adds increased charm
to the place, and without much trouble leads to
a greatly enhanced appearance at
■certain times of the year. Where
bulbous plants that bloom in spring
are features of the place, annuals
■may be made to produce a succes-
•sion of blossom. They can be sown
dn the soil round the bulbs, or
grown elsewhere and transplanted
into position. Most suitable of all
are the dwarfs, semi-dwarfs and
trailing plants which are frequently
grown in the garden, and, in
genera., tb se that do not dislike
a dry soil are most satisfactory.
Half-hardy subjects (marked with
an asterisk in the list) have to be
(raised in a cold frame, but the
others can quite well be sown where
they are to grow. Personally, I pre-
fer to grow them in the borders and
transplant them in due season ; in
sooth, I thin out my annuals with
this idea in view. Sow the seeds
rather thickly if the plants are to
be grown continuously in the rock
garden, in case bad rains in April
may wash away some of the surface
soil. Thin out the seedlings when
they have made four true leaves.
Here are some of the very finest
varieties, selected mainly for bright-
ness combined with massive effect :
*Abronia umbellata, fragrant, lilac,
trailer ; *Ageratum Dwarf Blue,
very free-flowering ; Alyssum mari-
timum, dwarf, white ; A. saxatile
'(Gold Dust), yellow, both very
fine ; *Arctotis breviscarpa, orange
colour, suggestive of the Calendula ;
Campanula attica, either in purple
or in white varieties, profusely
flowering dwarfs ; dwarf hybrid
Candytufts, various varieties ,
Collomia coccinea, suggestive of
the Bouvardia, scarlet and tall ;
Eschscholtzia Mandarin compacta,
a brilliant orange ; Gilia nivalis,
white, and G. minima caerulea,
beautiful blue, both 4 inches to 6 inches in height ;
Godetia Bijou, the smallest of its class ; Gypsophila
repens, red and white ; lonopsidium acaule, a
close-growing, very dwarf plant, lilac ; Lepto-
siphon androsaceus, pale purple ; Limnanthes
3Douglasii ; Kaulfussia amolloides, wliite, blue
■or crimson ; *Mesembryantheraum tricolor, must
Ibe ,^rown in a sheltered, sunny nook ; *dwarf
Kemesias, various, but only employ the most
brilliant kinds ; Nemophila ; *Nyc.terinia capensis,
white and blue dwarfs ; *Pansies and *Violas ;
*Phlox Druramondii of the smaller sorts ; Platy-
stemon californica, a kind of trailing Poppy with
cream flowers ; *Portulaca, very dainty ; 'Salvia
roemeriana, tine scarlet flowers ; Sanvitalia procum-
bens of double sorts, yellow and crimson ; Sapouaria
calabrica, rose or white ; •Schizanthus pinnatus,
very floriferous ; Silene pendula compacta, various
colours ; *Tagetes signata pumila, yellow gems ;
Virginian Stock, fine in the mass, but be sure to get
selected forms ; Veronica glauca ; and Whitlavia
grandiflora, rather large. H. H. A.
HALF-HARDY ANNUALS.
T
HERE are some very beautiful annuals
which really only come to perfection
when raised in gentle heat with a
protective covering of glass, such as
a greenhouse or frame affords, or
simply in boxes covered with glass ;
hence the name " half-hardy." Where space is
limited or from other causes a greenhouse or
frame is not available, the last-mentioned method
will be found to answer admirably for many
varieties if placed in a warm and sheltered aspect.
SAXIFRAGA HAAGEI.
When better known, this garden hybrid promises
to be quite a favourite among early flowering A light frame is, however, a most useful adjunct
I to any garden in this connection,
and will repay its cost even during
its first season. After raising
young plants the frame top can
be removed, some additional soil
dug in, and the space used as
open garden for the reception of
some of our seedlings, thus econo-
mising room. The writer has fre-
quently gro-wn prize annuals in
this way. It will be found good
practice to sow seeds in shallow
pots, pans or boxes which can be
fairly easily handled. It is im-
portant that these receptacles
should be thoroughly well drained.
Above coarse siftings of loamy
turf, a mi.tture of fine soil and
leaf-mould, with a good sprinkling
of sharp sand, comprise a fertile
seeding compost. A test for a
good soil is that it does not clog
when pressed together in the hand.
The whole of the varieties given
in this article may be used, after
hardening off, in a similar capa-
city to annuals of the hardy type,
i.e., massed in small beds, each of
a separate colour (a charming
method where sufficient room is
available), or in a mixed border
among more permanent plants.
Bearing in mind a few general
principles, there should be every
reason to expect success, the result
being a garden of beauty and
perfume. The interesting practica
experience also gained by growing
one's own plants will be found to
be of great value, and withal
fascinating. Not only that, but it
adds credit to the garden, and,
incidentally, to the gardener. It
is best to sow very thinly in
receptacles which have previously
been lightly watered, covering
the seeds with about their
own thickness of soil passed
through a small-meshed sieve. The seed-boxes
should afterwards be kept slightly on the dry
side, and, if those containing very small seeds
absolutely require moisture, they should be stood
for a time in vessels of water. An important
factor is to prick out early, when two pairs of
leaves have formed, to 3 inches or 4 inches apart,
setting the plants in moist soil up to their seed
leaves. If given plenty of air, kept near the
glass and away from hot sun, sturdy plants should
be the result.
The following selections will be found to con-
tain some of the best : Stocks. — Varieties of
SAXIFRAGA HAAGEI. AN EARLY FLOWERING HYBRID FOR THE
ROCK GARDEN, WITH DEEP YELLOW FLOWERS.
Saxifrages. The flowers are bright yellow, rising
about two inches above the soft green foliage.
The flower-stems are red, and, when well grown,
there are usually seven flowers to each inflores-
cence. This hybrid was raised by crossing S.
sancta and S. Ferdinandi-Coburgii, and is a worthy
descendant of two admirable parents. In general
appearance it somewhat resembles S. sancta, the
well-known species from Mount Athos. It does best
in a sunny position and limestone soil. The
flowering season is March and April, and it makes a
suitable companion plant in the rock garden to
the lighter-coloured S. apiculata.
April 4, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
171
Ten-week, East Lothian and Brompton. ; sow early.
Salpiglossis, 2 feet (various). Phlox Drummondii,
I foot (various). Double Asters Victoria, Comet
and Ostrich Plume. Single Asters sinensis and
Single Comet ; use wood-ashes and a little old
soot as manure for Asters. Schizanthus hybridus
grandiflorus, i foot (various). Verbena, i foot
■(various). Nemesia strumosa Suttonii grandifiora,
I foot (various). Double Zinnia, i J feet (various).
Marigold, 2 feet, African, Lemon ; French, Tall
■Orange. Cosmos, 2 feet to 3 feet, Rose Queen;
•Cosmos requires very little manure. Dimor-
pho heca aurantiaca, 1 foot, orange, black centre.
■GaiUardia picta, i foot, yellow and scarlet. For
-climbing : Cobaea scandens, purple, Tropaeolum
canariense, Humulus japonicus variegatus
(annual Hop), and Ipomcea coccinea, scarlet ;
sow where plants are to bloom. For edging :
Lobelia, blue and white, and Verbena nana
■compacta. Everlastings (for winter decoration) :
Helichrysum, i foot to 2 feet
(various) ; cut the blooms before
fully open. Rhodanthe, i foot
(various). B. W. Lewis.
THE IMPROVEMENT OF
GARDEN ROSES.
THE article upon " The Improvement
of Garden Roses," in your special
Rose Number of October 11 last,
from the pen of " White Rose,"
was very interesting, owing to the
superfluity of new varieties. Last
year established a record so far as the
National Rose Society and gold medal awards
were concerned, and the behaviour of the
varieties that have been so honoured will be
watched with keen interest by growers all over
the country. The demand for Roses is now immense,
and during the last decade has altogether altered
in- character. Exhibition varieties purely and
simply, and also those sorts that are not of value
as " cut-backs," have fallen upon evil days, and the
has also the effect of debarring many excellent
garden Roses from the highest award a variety
can obtain. After all, however, as your corre-
spondent puts it, there is another court of appeal,
and that is the amateiu' growers of the country.
I know that " White Rose " is very interested
in the welfare of the National Rose Society, and that
he is a very active and sympathetic member of that
organisation, and I take it as. a very hopeful sign
when I see him writing that, " As matters are now
arranged it is to the amateurs chiefly and finally
that we must look to secure the results we desire."
The amateur rosarian of to-day is rapidly becoming
quite independent of catalogue descriptions of
Roses, and, what is more, he is becoming very chary
of the awards to new varieties. The modern
amateur — I am writing of the majority — is a grower
of sturdy and healthy independence ; he knows
what he wants for decorative purposes, and he sees
that he will get it ultimately.
PLANTING ALMONDS FOR
EFFECT.
How often one sees the Almond
and other spring-flowering trees
■with red or pink flowers planted
in close proximity to a red brick
building, so that the beauty of the
flowers is lost against the unsuitable
background ! With summer-flower-
ing trees this may not be so apparent,
but with trees that bloom before
the leaves untold, too much care
cannot be given to the choice of a
favourable site.
Possibly the Almond is seen to
greater disadvantage than any other
tree, for, owing to its adaptability
to town life, it is frequently seen
in small gardens near large towns,
and especially in the suburbs of
London. Indeed, it has been ob-
served that the Almond produces
■a greater abundance of blossom
near to main thoroughfares than it
does in the quiet surroundings of
a large park or garden. The
reason given is that the trees near
thoroughfares are unmolested by
birds, whereas in sequestered places
the birds do considerable damage to the buds
in the spring.
In the accompanying illustration is shown the
Almond flowering with good effect near a garden
walk. Here the trees have been thoughtfully
interspersed with dark evergreen conifers, against
which the light-coloured flowers of the Almond
trees are thrown up in marked contrast. The
flowering of the Almond is always a matter of
interest to Londoners. This year the first blooms
were noticed in the early days of February, last
year on January 25, but in the cold spring of 1909
the first blooms were not observed till April i.
The Almond is known botanically as Pruniis
Amygdalus or Araygdalus communis, and the fruits
are clothed with a velvety pubescence. On the
Continent the Almond is grown lor its fruits, but
in this country they do not appear to have any
commercial value.
ALMONDS EFFECTIVELY GROUPED WITH DARK-LEAVED SHRUBS.
demand for Roses of this description is rapidly
becoming less and less. The call is now for what
are termed garden or decorative Roses, and raisers,
judging from the "National" shows of last year,
have not failed to respond.
But there is one unsatisfactory point in the
judgment of this somewhat modem section of
Roses. The system of granting awards to exhibi-
tion Roses may be sound enough, for, after all, the
flowers are otily required to be at their best upon
the show benches ; but, surely, a totally different
method is necessary for assessing the value of
varieties that are required for the decoration of
the ; arden and home. The value of such a Rose
can never be ascertained from a mere collection
of flowers staged upon a bench in tubes or boxes.
The present system, while admitting many valuable
Roses to premier honours, and at the same time
doing a similar service to some that are worthless.
" White Rose " observes that the amateur will
get what he wants by vigorous criticism and the
eUmination of undesirables, and this is precisely
what is being done. For example, in the West
of Scotland there is a very large and increasing
circle of enthusiastic amateur rosarians. These
growers have their wants catered for by weekly
articles in the columns of an influential Glasgow even-
ing newspaper. The editor of the gardening columns
last autumn took a plebiscite of his readers
upon the twenty-four best garden Roses, and the
result was a list that reflected little credit upon the
enormous number of new Roses of recent years.
Nearly one hundred and fifty lists were received by
the editor, and it is obvious, from the observations
made by the contributors, that they were really up-
to-date and had tried most new sorts. If criticism
of this description becomes more general — and it
really seems to tend in this direction- -it will be
172
THE Gx\RDEN.
[April 4, 1914.
welcome if it helps to teach those who are responsible
for gold medal awards what modern growers really
require. I offer no suggestion as to an alteration
of the present methods of the National Rose
Society in respect to new Roses, but I commend
the last paragraph of " White Rose's " excellent
article to the careful attention of its Council.
Mid-Lothian. George M. Taylor.
[We shall be pleased to publish the views of other
readers on this important subject, but we hope they
will be as concisely expressed as possible. — Ed.]
POTATOES.
UNDOUBTEDLY the Potato is the
most valuable of all vegetables
grown in a garden. In very small
gardens where a fair number of
vegetables are to be grown, and
only a few of each kind to provide
variety, early Potatoes only should be planted,
so as to allow of space in the summer-time for
soil is pretty well freed of both small and coarse
weeds.
Digging and Manuring. — I need not refer in
detail to the work of digging. It will be sufficient
to say that the soil must be broken up and the
subsoil loosened in the case of new ground, and
that a subsequent tmming with the garden fork of
the top 12 inches vnil be advisable. Cultivated
ground will only need once digging. In every
instance well-rotted manure should be used in
preference to fresh or green manure. Some growers
simply put the manure in the drills or trench and
lay the tubers on it, afterwards covering them
and the manure with soil. It is much the best
plan to dig in the manure evenly over the whole
of the ground a few weeks prior to the planting
of the tubers in the case of heavy, retentive soils,
and then, when the tubers are planted, simply
move the top portion to cover the tubers without
turning it over and exposing the buried manure.
When dealing with light soils, the manure may
be applied at the same time as planting is done.
light lavender, white-tipped flowers ; Sir John
Llewelyn, white kidney, white flowers ; Duke ot
Vork, white kidney, white flowers.
Second Early. — Windsor Castle, white round ;
Radium, white round, white flowers ; British
Queen, white kidney, white flowers ; Herd Laddie,
coloured round ; and Mr. Bresse, coloured kidney.
Late. — The Factor, white round or oval,
mauve flowers; King Edward VII., coloured
kidney, mauve flowers ; The Admiral, white
round, flowers white ; and Up-to-Date, white
kidney, mauve flowers. Avon.
A BEAUTIFUL ALPINE PLANT, SOLDANELLA PUSILLA ALBA. THIS RECEIVED AN
MERIT FROM THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY ON THE 24TH ULT.
several kmds of winter greens to be planted. In
larger gardens, early, midseason and late varieties
of Potatoes may be grown in quantity, according
to the requirements of the cultivator.
Cleaning the Soil. — Some persons say, " Oh !
plant Potatoes ; they clean the soil better than
any other crop." It is not the crop that cleans
the soil, but the treatment of the soil necessary
to the well-being of the Potatoes. The ground
must be well worked before the tubers are planted ;
the loosened soil is moved during the earthing-up
process, and again when the crop is gathered ;
also, there is considerable hoeing done to keep
down surface weeds. A good cultivator does
this, and also gets rid of deep-rooting weeds at
iifting-time, so that at the end of one year the
It should be spread on the surface and dug in with
the soil generally, thoroughly mixing it with
the latter. In clayey soils, with which I have had
to deal, I have had some trouble in growing tubers
with a clean skin. After several seasons of unsatis-
factory results I scattered dry lime in the trench,
on tubers and soil alike, before covering the former
with soil in the usual way. From plots so treated
I had Potatoes so clear in skin that they were
fit to exhibit in good company. I never measured
the lime applied, but used sufficient to make the
soil look quite white. The following are good
sorts for general planting, and are suitable for a
garden ot medium size.
Early. — Midlothian Early, a white kidney with
white flowers ; Sharpe's Victor, white kidney.
NEW AND RARE PLANTS.
AWARDS OF MERIT.
Narcissus Syphax. — This was entered for
" garden and cutting." It is a self-coloured flower
of rich golden yellow. After Buttercup in shade,
but not in form. The stem is long and good.
Narcissus Tita. — A fine, big red cup, also recom-
mended for garden and cutting ; and certainly,
by the length of stem sho%vn, it should
prove an ( xcellent garden variety.
Narcissus Sunrise. — This is an in-
comparabilis sort, with rich scarlet cup
and pale creamy perianth segments.
Recommended for cutting. These
three excellent novelties came from Mr.
A. M. Wilson, Shoveli, Bridgwater.
Narcissus Eastern Maid.— This in
some respects appro.ximates to Sir
Watkin, despite the fact that the seg-
ments are longer and more pointed, the
cup longer and more cylindrically in-
clined, and the colour a deeper yellow
shade. Recommended for show. From
Messrs. R. H. Bath, Limited, Wisbech.
Soldanella pusilla alba. — One of the
prettiest of its class ; a dainty alpine
3 inches high, having heavily fringed,
pendent bells of pearly whiteness,
slightly stained with crimson at their
bases internally. From Messrs. T. S.
Ware, Limited, Feltham.
Trillium rivale. — A dainty wood-
land plant, suited also for cool posi-
tions in peat and leaf-mould in the rock
garden. It is but 3 inches or so high,
quite a miniature in its set, the
white flowers copiously spotted with
brown. Shown by Mr. James Box,
Lindfield, Sussex,
Rhododendron Littleworth
Hybrid. — This may briefly be re-
ferred to as a giant form of R.
argenteum, with larger, longer
and whiter flowers. Unfortunately,
the anthers had been removed, and
with them a characteristic of the flower had gone.
The scarlet-tipped stigma was very conspicuous.
Shown by Miss Mangles, Scale, Famham.
awaRD of
NEW ORCHIDS.
A first-class certificate was granted for an
exquisite rich crimson Odontioda named Zenobia.
It was sho^vn by F. M. Ogilvie, Esq., Oxford.
Awards of merit were made to Dcndrobium
superbum Huttonii giganteum, shown by W.
Walter Butler, Esq., Edgbaston ; and to Sophro-
Lrelio-Cattleya Niobe Orchid Dene Variety, from
Messrs. E. H. Davidson and Co., Twyford.
The foregoing awards were made by the Royal
Horticultural Society on March 24 at the fort-
nightly exhibition.
April 4, 1914.J
THE GARDEN.
173
GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.
DIVIDING AND REPOTTING ASPIDISTRAS.
AMONG the numerous plants grown in
pots for indoor decoration, none
equals the Aspidistra for dark corners,
i draughty passages and other positions
^ unfavourable for plant growth in the
house. It may be safely said, with-
out fear of contradiction, that no other plant
is used so extensively. One has only to visit a
market nursery and see house after house of
Aspidistras containing thousands of plants, or
Covent Garden in the early morning, to recognise
the enormous demand that exists.
Aspidistra lurida, to give our friend its full
botanical name, is said to have been first intro-
duced to this country from China in 1822, and
two years later, in 1824, a very nice figure was given
of the plant in the Botanical Magazine, plate 2499.
Though of such inestimable value as a foliage
plant, the flowers are insignificant, though very
interesting to those who love the quaint and
uncommon. They appear generally in early
spring, nestling among the stalks of the leaves
there is no need for repotting. The plant illustrated
has been grown in a room for nine years.
During that time it has only been repotted once,
and now requires it again. The plant is large
enough to divide into two, or, if desired, may be
potted on into a size larger pot. For plants
growing in a room it is most important to have
ample drainage in the bottom of the pots to allow
water to pass away freely. Place, as shown in
the illustration, one large crock over the hole
in the bottom of the pot, next several rather
smaller pieces, and on these some still smaller,
covering all with a little moss to prevent the soil
trickling down and stopping the surplus water
from passing out at the bottom. Sometimes
when repotting Aspidistras the soil is in such bad
condition that it is necessary to wash all the old
soil away from the roots ; in others, when the soil
is sweet, only the loose soil need be taken off.
Aspidistras are such good-natured and hardy
plants that repotting checks them little, if
at all. While most of what has already been
written applies to both the green-
leaved and variegated-leaved Aspi-
distras, those with the beautifully
marked white and green leaves
require more care and attention to
grow them successfully. As much
light as possible must be given
them, as in dark comers the leaves
are inclined to gradually revert to
green, from which in the first
instance they have been selected as
sports. There is nothing better than
a little lukewarm soft water and
soft soap for sponging the leaves of
Aspidistras. On warm, showery days
it is very beneficial to stand the plants
outside for a few hours. O. A.
I. AN ASPIDISTRA THAT NEEDS REPOTTING.
and quite close to the soil in the pot. Less than
an inch across when fully expanded, the blooms
are buff outside and rich purple inside. The
Aspidistra gets the name of lurida from the poor
quality of the flow'ers, the common name of the
Dingy-flowered Aspidistra being also sometimes
used.
The Best Time to Pot the plants is during
March and April, those who are fortunate enough
to possess a greenhouse doing such work in March,
while April is soon enough for plants which, when
potted, must be kept in a window or room.
Aspidistras will grow in most soils, a suitable
compost being a mixture of three parts loam,
one part leaf-mould and one part coarse sand.
There is no necessity to put Aspidistras in large
pots, though the roots must not be unduly
<;rowded ; the plants will be found to thrive
better when the quantity of soil in the pot is
not excessive in comparison with the size of the
plants
The question of when a plant requires repotting
and how often may now be considered. As long
as a plant remahis healthy, the soil in the pot
ieeps sweet, and the leaves are not unduly crowded.
SOOT AS LIQUID MANURE.
Soot, used with care, is very
valuable in the garden, but fre-
quently it is applied injudiciously, and then
the results are unsatisfactory. We only want
the essence and not the sediment but there
is a mistaken idea that the soot-water, to be of
any benefit to plants, must be very black, like
the soot itself. This is, of course, the wrong
way to use the liquid. If we brew coffee,
we use the clear liquid as a beverage, and
not the grounds or sediment. Soot must be
kept in a box or tub in a dry shed. When
a liquid is required, put a peck of the soot
in a coarse bag or piece of sacking, tie it up
tightly, and immerse in a tub or other vessel
containing twelve gallons of water. The bag of
soot must be violently moved to and fro twice
a day for a week ; then use the clear* liquid,
taking it out very carefully so as not to stir up
the sediment.
For the general watering of plants in pots,
one pint will be sufficient to mix with a gallon
of clear water ; for plants in borders, use twice
the quantity. In every case the plants must
possess plenty of roots, and the soil must be
fairly dry before clear water is given, to be
followed one hour afterwards with the soot-water.
2. IF DESIRED, THE PLANT CAN BE
DIVIDED INTO TWO OR MORE PIECES.
When the sediment is used and the soot applied
in a natural state, the pores of the soil are blocked,
and then, through sourness, the roots perish.
In the open border, dry soot may be applied, of
course, to ward off slugs from young seedlings ;
but the soot must not be scattered on the foliage.
If to be mixed with potting composts, the soot
must be stored for at least three months. Never
use soot and lime in a closed frame where
there are plants, as the lime liberates the
ammonia, and, if confined, the leaves of plants
are burned. Shamrock.
-A SECTION OF A POT, SHOWING HOW
IT IS DRAINED, AND A DIVIDED
PORTION POTTED.
174
. THE GARDEN.
[April 4, 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
Cherry Trees in Pots. — This is a precarious
crop, and requires careful attention until the
stoning period is over. Examine the pots several
times daily, and when necessary a good soaking
of clear water should be given. The ventilators
should never be closed until the second swelling
has commenced, and it is far better to let the
temperature drop to 40° than to employ fire-
heat to keep it higher.
Young Dormant Vines. — Now Is the time to
plant young dormant Vines. Let every particle
of soil be carefully removed from the roots, which
must not be exposed to the air for any length of
time before they are placed in position, and
covered with 2 inches of fine soil from the border,
which should have been made up a month ago.
When the Vines are planted, water with clear
soft water, but only in sufiicient quantity to
reach the roots. Place a stick to each plant,
and, when the shoots are sufficiently advanced,
disbudding should be carefully performed, leaving
the necessary leading shoots as near the bottom
wire of the trellis as possible.
Vine Eyes. — If these were inserted in small
pots early in the year, they should now be ready
for potting into 5-inch pots. The soil may consist
of three parts rich loam, one part leaf-soil, and
sufiicient silver sand and fine lime rubble to keep
the compost porous. Young Vines are easily
injured at this stage, therefore potting should
take place in the house where they are growing.
Support each plant with a stick, and shade for a
few days, but as soon as possible the plants should
be exposed to the sun. Syringe frequently in
order to promote a hunrid atmosphere.
Plants Under Glass.
Bouvardias. — Early struck cuttings will now
require potting, either singly in small pots, or,
if struck three in a pot, they may be potted without
di\'ision, and will make useful plants for early
winter flowering. As the season advances and
the plants have gro\vn to a useful size, they must
be gradually hardened, so that during the summer
they may be grown in a well-ventilated pit.
Mignonette. — Plants which are approaching
the flowering stage may be watered frequently
with weak guano-water, and from now onward
they must never be allowed to become too dry
at the roots. A further sowing of Mignonette
should be made now to provide a succession to
those plants which have been cultivated during
the spring. Red Monster is one of the best varieties
for this purpose : 5-inch or 6-inch pots will be
quite large enough.
The Flower Garden.
Montbretias. — If the corms were lifted in the
autumn and placed in cold frames, they will
now have started into growth, and should be
planted out as soon as possible. At Frogmore these
roots are lifted each season and wintered in a cold
pit. In February part of the corms are potted,
allowed to start into growth, and planted out in
April. By this means earlier flowers are obtained,
and the supply prolonged by planting dormant
corms for succession.
Violets. — If cuttings were taken in the autumn
and wintered in cold frames, there will be no
difficulty in finding a sufiicient number of stocky
young plants ready for planting out now. If
thoroughly hardened, they may be lifted with a
nice quantity of soil to each plant and carefully
planted on a well-prepared border. Single varieties
may be allowed 18 inches each way between the
plants, and double varieties a foot from plant to
plant. We grow a large number of Violets at
Frogmore, and all of them are struck in the autumn.
The old plants are thrown away as soon as the
flowering period is over.
The Hardy Flower Border. — Most of the
plants have started into growth, and any regulating
or transplanting still to be done should be finished
without delay, as if dry weather sets in they may
sufier seriously. The surface of the border may be
carefully stirred with a Dutch hoe. If necessary,
the growths of Asters and Phloxes may now be
thinned out, removing the weaker shoots, and
others also where they are too numerous. Vacant
spots near the front of the border may now be
filled with Pentstemons, Antirrhinums, Agro-
stemma coronaria and Carnations, all of which
are well furnished with foliage as well as flowers.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Fruit Trees on Walls.— Apricot, Nectarine
and Peach trees will still require protection from
frost and dashing rain, for, the drier the flowers
and foliage are kept in cold weather, the better
will be the prospect of a successful crop. While the
blossoms are kept dry, they will withstand a con-
siderable degree of cold without injury. As
soon as the fruits are set, the trees should be care-
fully examined, and if any aphides are present,
their destruction must be accomplished as soon
as possible.
The Kitchen Garden.
French Beans. — These may be so\vn either in
heated pits or forcing-houses, and may be expected
to produce pods about the end of May. Plants
now in bearing may be frequently watered with
weak liquid manure. Syringe twice daily and
shut up the house early in the afternoon. Seeds
may now be sown in small pots for planting in
cold pits about the middle of April.
Winter Greens. — Kales for winter use should
be sown with as little delay as possible, and another
sowing made about the end of April for use later
in the season. Broccoli for autumn and winter
supplies should be so%vn about the end of
April.
Seakale. — If Seakale thongs were prepared
and placed in a warm border during the winter,
the plants should now be ready to put out. Plant
in rows 2 feet apart and allow a foot from plant
to p'ant in the rows.
Royal Gardens, Windsor.
John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Carrots. — Preparations should now be made
for sowmg the main crop of this important vege-
table. The soil best suited for their successful
cultivation is one of a deep sandy nature, but
I must not be understood to say that very good
results may not be had from ordinary garden
soil, that is if this is skUfulIy prepared.
Sowing the Seed. — On shallow soUs it is usually
good policy to sow the intermediate or stump-
rooted varieties, while Long Surrey and Altrin-
cham will succeed best on deep loams. No one,
however, can hope to grow Carrots surcrssfully
unless the bed has been thoroughly prrpnred.
The seed should be mixed with fine earth previous
to sowing ; indeed, in addition to this, I have
even gone the length of running some sifted soil
into the drills before sowing. Needless to say,
the seed should be sown thinly, and thin out when
the plants are quite small ; if possible, in showery
weather. It is at this stage that the m^iggot
makes its appearance, and as a preventive I
usually give the ground between the rows a
dressing of mown grass from the lawn ; this is
repeated about every three weeks until all danger
is past.
Mushrooms. — A bed may now be prepared
to give a supply of Mushrooms towards the begin-
ning of June. Should one be cramped for room,
the bed may be made up in an outhouse. Bi ds
giving a supply of Mushrooms will be greatly
benefited by an occasional watering with rain-
water to which a little salt has been added.
Late Cabbage. — All the late varieties of Cabbage,
such as Winningstadt, may now be sown, as well
as a pinch of seed of Red Cabbage, which is so
much in demand for pickling in the autumn.
The Flower Garden.
Bulbs. — The various sorts of bulbs that have
been forced should be collected and placed in a
frame, where they can be attendfd to in the way
of watering until the foliage is matured. These
may be planted out in the autumn in convenient
places in the wild garden. Daffodils, of course,
may be planted in nursery lines in the garden
and forced again in two or three years' time.
Spiraeas may be planted right away in some
marshy spot, where they soon make handsome
plants. Azaleas should have the faded flowers
removed, and be kept under cover until the young
growth is completed.
Hardy Annuals.— The present will be a suitable
time to sow the majority of hardv annuals, particu-
larly those that do not bear tr'ansplantirg. The
sowing of all hardy annuals may be made where
they are to flower, provided they are sufficiently
thinned. This thinning is important, as it not
only prolongs the blooming period, but the flowers
themselves are much finer. Such annuals as
Dimorphotheca aurantiaca, with its gorgeous
orange flowers, are extremely effective, and for
producing a blaze of colour, perhaps the Godetias
stand unrivalled. The variety Scarlet Queen
made a brilliant display here last season. Phacelia
campanularia is singularly striking with its bright
blue flowers, which last a long time in b'oom.
And what of the ever-popular Shirley Poppy,
with its endless varietv of colour, and that chaste
little Swan River Daisy that always arrests
attention I It would be difficult to imagine
anything more showy than that old favourite,.
Saponaria calabrica. Last season I saw this in
perfection. The gardener had sown it over some
stones and old roots, and when in bloom it resembled
a huge cushion of pretty pink, star-like flowers.
Ageratums. — I find it a great saving of labour
to grr)w these from seed rather than propagate
by cuttings. They come wonderfully true, and
if sown now will U'lst in bloom when almost every-
other plant is over.
Plants Under Glass.
Begonia Gloire de Lorraine. — By this time
the main batch of cuttings should be' got in, and
it will be found that with the increpscd sun-heat
cuttings inserted now will possibly overtake
those rooted earlier. They may be inserted
three in a pot in a compost containing a good
proportion of silver sand, taking care to m.-ke the
soil quite firm around the cuttirgs. Where one
cannot command a propagating-case, the same
results will be obtained by placing the small
pots among half-decayfd leavfs in a box of con-
venient size. Covfr the box with glass and
stand it on the pipis in an early vinery.
Richardias (Arums). — As these go out of
bloiim, coniiiiue tn g,ve an occasional watering
with liqtiid manure to mature the crowns for
next se: Son's flowers. Lft the folifge ripen off
naturally, and by no mf-ans stand thrm out of
doors until all fear of frost is gone. It is true
that at this stage they become unsightly ; still,
if we expect to procure a supply of these noble
flowers, we must give them a chance.
Greenhouse Rhododendrons. — The majority
of thise lovt.y Rhododti-droi s will now be ei^ming
into bloom, and as they are usu: lly grown in large
pots or tubs and not potted very frequently,
they shou'd be given liberal supplies of liquid
manure. The variety Lady Alice Fitzwillirm,
with its exquisite frrgrance, is one of the bfst,
and if allowed to grow naturally makes handsome
specimens. I find that if the blooms are cut just
before the buds open, they travel well and stand
quite a lorg time in a cut state.
Shading. — With the increased power of the
sun, all houses requiring shading should be seen
to at once, otherwise much damage will be done
to the young Feni fronds and Palms.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Beyond giving protection to trees and bushes
as they come inte> flower and keeping the ground
free from weeds, very little will require to be
done at the moment in this department. Apples
and Pears, however, may still be grafted where
this was not done earlier.
Fruits Under Glass.
Melons. — Those planted last month will now
be grown. g freely, but water should still be given
with care, more especially round the neck of the
plants. There is still a sharp bite in the air,
so that ventilation will require to be deine with
caution. It will be well to close down the house
early in the afternoon, and thus husband as much
sun-heat as possible. Seed may now be sown to
keep up a succession of ripe fruit.
John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the MarqiiiS of Linlithgow.)
Hopcloun Gardens, South Qucciisfcrry, N.B.
April 4, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
175
MY SMALL ROCK GARDEN :
HOW I MADE AND PLANTED IT.
{Continued from page i6i.)
WHERE some bay occurs (preferably
close to the path edge), it is
well to torm a " semi-bog " by
taking out the soil to the depth oi
a loot at least, and partially lining
the " dish " so formed with
clay. If into this receptacle a mixture of peat
moss litter {rubbed through a half-inch sieve),
leaf-mould, small brick grit and sand is placed,
it will accommodate a host of plants which delight
in a moist rooting medium, such as Primulas,
Soldanellas, Erythroniums, Polypodium Dryopteris,
and so on. Peat moss litter I have found a splendid
materia] as a substitute for the more expensive
peat, and it forms an excellent
" sponge." The bales should be
opened and allowed to become
moist, when the stuff crumbles down
to the size of Cocoanut fibre. It
should, of course, be used new — not
after it has been in the stable. At
some point not far from the eye it
is well to form a gently rising piece
of ground, where a number of small,
irregularly sized beds will accommo-
date the choicer Saxifragas, such, for
instance, as S. burseriana, S. rocheli-
ana, S. Elizabethae, S. marginata,
S. cochlearis and its variety minor,
and S. Salomonii, varied here and
there with the choice Woodruff,
Asperula suberosa, and the dainty
Linum salsaloides nana. A little
further off, in crevices in rather
more rocky ground, S. lingulata will
display its narrow-leaved rosettes,
while in steeply rising, sunny posi-
tions S. longifolia should be planted
in such a way that the rosettes
project through a small opening
between the stones, and the rcots
wander away in a semi-horizontal
direction behind, amid the gritty,
limy compost. In rather similar
positions, though in shade, the
lovely Ramondia pyrenaica can be
planted, say, half a dozen in a
group, a few inches apart.
The more shady portions of the
garden can be planted with the
many coloured species of tlie Mossy
Saxifragas, such as S. caespitosa, S. muscoides,
S. Wallacei, S. Clibranii and S. bathoniensis,
while their vivid green foliage can be varied
by the umbrosa section, such as the type — S.
Geum and S. cuneifolia.
Alpine Pinks. — Among the Dianthus family,
D. arenarius will adorn rocky crevices and
drape the adjacent stones with a wee green mantle,
which in its flowering season will be a sheaf of
white, deeply fringed flowers. In a more choice
spot (as well as in the moraine), in especially
gritty soil, the narrow, grassy leaves of D. neglectus
will make a tiny mound, surmounted in June or
July with rich, deep carmine blossoms. Similarly
in free soil (and, strangely enough, sun) D. sylvestris
and its dwarfer form, D. frigidus, will do well,
while on some sunny knoll in quite ordinary,
-though free soil the Cheddar Pink (D. caesius)
will make a welcome patch.
Silvery Saxifragas, such as S. Hostii, S. Aizoon Stepping Stones. — As every portion must be
and S. Cotyledon and its variety pyramidalis, conveniently reached, it is necessary to place
can well be employed to garnish crevices between ' stepping-stones at distances apart, making them as
steeply rising rock, and in such positions the inconspicuous as possible by employing suitable
arcliing sprays of white and pink dotted flowers irregularly shaped pieces of flatfish stone and
will show to great advantage. " working " them into the design. In my case I
On the sunniest stones Houseleeks can.be grown, made the chief path round the outer portion of the
provided a little soil is given them and they are garden, and then arranged several narrow, sinuous
tended with water until estab'ished. The species tracks more towards the centre (exclusively for my
Sempervivum arachnoideum (the Cobweb House-
leek) is especially attractive, as it makes silvery
hummocks surmounted by rich rosy, star-like
flowers. Other decorative Sempervivums are
S. Tristii, S. fimbriatum, S. calcareum and S.
globiferura.
Of the Sedums or Stonecrop family all are useful,
own use), and these were varied by making some
merely in the form of stepping-stones, while others
were built more soMd'y and continuous, in the form
of a rough, irregular stairway, and, by cementing
them at the joints, water, conveyed in a con-
cealed pipe to the highest point, could in the
summer-time trickle over them as a miniature
and some especially so. Sedum Sieboldii, for ' cascade.
instance, with glaucous-co'oured foliage, changing
to rich rosy copper by the autumn, when its
A Small Pool. — If a tiny pool can be arranged
at the lowest part, a considerable charm is
THE COBWEB HOUSELEEK ON A SUNNY LEDGE, WITH ARENARIA C^SPITOSA IN THE FOREGROUND.
trusses of pink flowers terminate the growths,
is most welcome, while S. Ewersii, S. kamschaticum
and S. altissimum are attractive.
In hot, sunny positions, where a striking effect
is desired, the Sun Rose (Helianthemum) in
varying colours can be grown, though it is apt
to be too large foi a small garden ; while, if room
is available, the dwarf shrub, Cistus formosus,
with yellow flowers, and C. purpureus, with large
red ones, are very attractive.
On some steeply inclined portion of the garden
in full sun, where there is no trace of lime in the
soil, Lithospermum prostratum and its variety
Heavenly Blue make a beautiful cascade of deep
green fo'iage and Gentian-like, blue flowers more
or less throughout the summer ; while, at the
base of such a bluff, Campanula pusilla alba can
be allowed to ramble, sending up myriads of
dainty, 4-inch-high blossoms.
added, and near its margin a wet bog can be built
by making a bed which will contain peat, sand
and leaf-mould in about equal proportions, and
such showy plants as Primula japonica, P. pulveru-
lenta and P. sikkimensis will thrive there, whi'e
at the e.xtreme water's edge P. rosea will revel.
If as a background to these there is room for a
crown or two of the fine bold foliage of the
Umbrella Plant (Saxifraga peltata), we can have
in miniature the bold effect of a Gunuera. As
a contrast to the foregoing, either in the water
or near its edge, a spathe or two of the common
yellow Iris gives a beautiful line with its sword-
like foliage, though it needs keeping rigidly to a
small plant, otherwise it will outgrow its
position.
Not only should the garden be decorated with
the more or less evergreen plants, but the whole
range of dwarf bulbous subjects is open to the
176
THE GARDEN.
[April 4, 1914.
cultivator, and many of these find cont;enial
homes beneath the low carpeting plants. By
this means it is possible to have what is practically
two crops on the same ground, and the garden
may then be flooded in the early part of the year
with glorious streaks of blue, where the Glory of
the Snow (Chionodoxas) spread, while rosy lilac
splashes denote Bulbocodium vernum, Scillas in
various colours, early and late flowering species
of Croci, and Narcissi in varied sizes, from the
wee N. minimus, only 3 inches high, upwards.
Tulips, such as T. persica, T. pulchella, T. kauf-
manniana and a host of other similar plants
should be employed, and most of them thrive
well in the normal compost.
Silvery Leaved Plants.— Silvery foliaged plants,
such as Artemisia vallesiaca, Androsace lanu-
ginosa and Antennaria tomentosa, should be
utilised to the full, and if pleasingly arranged
where their shimmering colour will be backed
by some darker foliage, very great use may be
made of them. Dwarf conifers, too, aid greatly
in suggesting a scale in the garden, and should
occupy prominent positions, though never at
the highest points cf the rock garden, unless they
are prostrate growing, such as Juniperus Sabina
variety tamariscifolia. The tiny J. hibernica
variety compressa is dwarf and refined enough
ior association with the smallest plants, while
Pinus Cembra, P. sylvestris nana and Picea pygmaea
can be used a little further from the eye, and all
seem to thrive in the normal gritty compost of the
rock garden.
One final word of warning I should like to
mention before closing, and that is to emphasise
the desurability of preventing the slightest soil
leakage. Often at the point of junction between
two stones the insertion of a fragment of rock,
either with or without a touch of cement to hold
it in place, makes all the difference between
success or failure with the inhabitant of the position.
Not only does the soil trickle down on to plants
below and render them partially submerged,
but the leakage rapidly forms a space beneath
the higher stones, a matter which should on no
account be allowed to occur, and which, when
present, almost invariably results in the death
of the plant whose roots have wandered in that
direction. Firnmess, solidity and thorough pack-
ing of the porous soil beneath each and every
stone should be the watchword of the rock
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
Ercnj department of hortictlttin' is represented in The
Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send iri questions
relating to matters upon ivhich tfie;/ mish expert advice.
The' Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
but he ivill not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonabU care, however, will be taken, and where i^tamps
are enclnsed: Jw will endeavour to return non-acrepted
contributions.
As regards photographs, if payment is desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainfif stated.
It must be disiincilv uvderstood that only the actual photn-
granher or owner of the copijright will he treated with.
The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be ahle to use. and
the receipt of a proof ynust not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone
be reeoqnised as acceptance.
Offices: 20, Taristork Strert. C'ovcnt Garden. W.C.
TO
ANSWERS
CORRESPONDENTS.
gardener.
Reginald A. Malby.
THE EDITOR'S TABLE.
A Specimen Lilac from Dersingham.—From
Mr. T. -Jannoch, Dersingham, Norfolk, we have
received a profusely flowered specimen plant
of a single white Lilac. The plant was admirably
grown, and so heavily laden with large trusses
of bloom that we felt compelled to have it photo-
graphed, with the result that it is illustrated
on page 169 of this issue. The variety is Marie
Legraye, well known to be one of the best for
pot culture under glass. Mr. Jaimoch has a world-
wide reputation for Lilacs, and all of the plants
sent out from his nursery have been grown for
two or more years in pots. This is doubtless
the secret of his success, for in order to obtain
the finest early Lilac flowers it is absolutely neces-
sary that the plants should be established in pots,
and the older the plants the better will be the
flowers.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— 27((7 Editor intends to
make The Gardes helpful to all readers wlio desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, rvhere possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Pxtblisher.
FLOWER GARDEN.
VIOLETS NOT DOING WELL (York).— We find no
fundus or inject upon tin:- Viok-ts sent. The ^cat develop-
ment of leaf with the small anvnnit of dower prodnction
simi^ests that the soil is of too rich a character.
SOWING ZEA QUADRICOLOR PERFECTA (F. H.).—
\s you have no artificial heat, you may sow the seeds and
place in a cold frame in April. Failing this, sow in a
warm, sheltered spot out of doors at the end of April
or earlv in ilay.
THE NEW ZEALAND FLAX (PHORMIUM TENAX)
U Newbury). — This is hardy in many parts of En-rland.
Where this is the case, all that it needs is to plant it out
in "ood loamy soil so situated that it is always fairly
moi^t If grown in pots, it should be ffiven a comport
consisting mainly of fibrous loam, lightened, if necessary,
by a little leaf-mould and sand. Under these conditions
it must be wintered in the greerUiouse or conservatory.
\ suitable soil for Lasiandra macrantha is equal parts
of loam and peat, with a good sprinkling of silver sand.
Tlir plants should bo stopped two or tlircc times durmg
thrir carlirr stages in order to induce a bushy habit.
MANURING BULBS IN GRASS (Zctti)-— Providing
your bulbs appear to be moderately vigorous and the
flowers do not deteriorate from year to year, there is no
need to applv manure to the grass. We know of many
vigorous plantations made twenty year;:, ago which have
never been manured since, yet always bloom well. If
you do wish to apply manure, however, you may use
basic slag and kainit in the proportion of two parts of
the former to one part of the latter ; use at the rate of
lOlb. to the scpiare rod. Crocuses and Daffodils give good
results where the grass is dense, but Snowdrops are usually
better where the grass is thin. It is doubtful whetlier
Anemone fulgens will keep in good condition for more
than a year or two, and you would be well advised to
carry out a few experiments before making an extensive
planting.
HERBACEOUS BORDER AND A FLAN (Atmous).—
It is most important that all such hordrrs \>r set niit to a
plan, otherwise nothing short of an indiscriminate mixture
would result. From the colour point of view it is most
essential, and what you have to do is to arrange your
plants in informal groups, each group occupying a space
of 2 feet or 3 feet, so that the colours will harmonise and not
clash. A point to aim at is to avoid arranging in close proxi-
mity near akin shades of colour, whether it be blue, pink,
violet, purple, rose, salmon, yellow and orange, and so on,
.-tronger and more decisive shado.^ invariably overpowering
the weak. By distributing these near akin shades through-
out the border in touch with other colours which allord
harmony or contrast, a good result is secured. To get a
fuller idea of how a border .should be set out, you should
obtain " The Hardy Flower Book," by E. H. Jenkins,
which contains a good plan anil much other useful informa-
tion. It may be had post free from our Publishing Dopart-
meiit for 2s. lOd .
MARGUERITE MRS. SANDERS iSantry).— It would
not be safe to plant out tbi' MirgiuTitcs till the end of
.May or early part (jf June. <.;ood garden soil, such as
that most suitable for bedding plants, will meet tin*
requirements of this Marguerite, Good clean flowers
would doubtless flnd a ready market. If for quick effect,
the plants may be planted from 15 inches to 18 inches
apart; but if the object is to readily get between them
and pick the flowers, rows 2 feet apart with 18 inches
between the plants will not be too much. The cuttings
taken now should be fit to plant out in due course.
PLANTS FOR PAVED WALK (N. M.).—You would
find the following plants of utility and beauty for the
period — July and Aiigust — named. All are dwarf growing
When planting, rake out the old soil 3 inches deep from
between the stones and apply fresh. Also avoid setting
the plants in tufts. By pulling into small portion.s. a
plant or two may prove sufficient to adorn a crevice
18 inches long, from which, in time, they spread naturally
— Antennaria toment-osa. Arenaria balearica. Campanula
pusilla. C. p. alba, C. p. Miss Willmott, C. puUa. C gar-.'anlca
in variety, Hutchinsia alpina, ilentha Requieni, Si-dum
corsicum. S. hispanicum glaucum, S. Lydium. and Thymus
Serpyllum coccineum. A good plant for the bed to appear
above the white Alyssum would be Gladiolus brench-
leyensis. It is scarlet-flowered. Other plants meagre
of foliage, flowering at the same time, would be Xlont-
brr-tias, though for your district we think the first-named
would be the best. The manure you refer to -hould be
excellent for flower beds or. when sifted, for pot plants
also. Wo are pleased you flind THE GARDEN of so much
assistance.
PLANTS FOR WALL (J. F.).— You have, unfortunately,
omitted some important particulars in connection with
the wall, and if of ordinary brick, mortar-jointed, and
erect, there may be some difficulty in getting the plants
to start. The success of the Aubrietia, however, gives
ground for hope. In the circumstances, so far as w^e
know them, sowing the seeds in the wall would be best,
though for a south wall autumn would have been a better
time, as the seedlings would be now appearins. Before
introducing the seeds, some of the joints should be raked
out to a depth of 2 inches, soaking the creWces so formed
a few times ^vith water ; then, by sprinkling a dozen or two
dozen seeds thinly on some moist, stiffish loam, or even
clay, the seed-charged soil could be so distributed that
the seeds would presently form groups 2 feet or 3 feet
across. This principle could be followed throughout,
draping or trailing plants, like Aubrietia, being kept high,
the dwarfer things, like Erinus, being set as it were to the
iruddle line of ^ision. An item of supreme importance
is after-attention till the seedlings have taken hold, and
the getting of moisture to the roots of plants in a vertically
built brick wall is not at all easy. If the wall is of roughly
quarried, not " worked," stone, the larger interstices avaU-
able will render treatment a much simpler matter. In any
case, after the distribution of the seed-charged soil, the face
of the wall should be daily moistened, as much to hasten
the vegetation of the seeds as to afford nourishment later.
The following would be of service in the case : Wallflower,
Snapdragon and Red Valerian for top positions, if such
exist, and where bold plants are required. For the rest,
Aubrlctias of sorts, CampamUa pusilla in variety. C.
muralis, C. garganica, Corydalis lutea. Dianthus ctesius.
D. deltoides, D. alpinns," D. squarrosus, Edraianthus
dalmaticus, Candj-tuft (Iberis). Thrift in variety, Erinns
alpinns, E. a. albus, Linaria hepatica>folia. Papaver
alpinum, Saxifraga Alzoon rosea, S.loncifolia. S.lantoscana,
Semper\ivum arachnoideum (seeds or plants). Edelweiss
and Zanschneria californica.
TREES AND SHRUBS.
SHRUBS NOT FLOWERING (Old Subscriber).—
Your plants of Staphylea colchica and Xanthoceras
sorbifolin ought to be given the sunniest posil ions available ;
then, if growing freely, there is no reason why they should
not flower. Do not "prune them at all for a year or two.
but if very strong shoots are formed, cut the roots round
at a distance of 2 feet or 2J feet from the stems. Thi!^.
however, is only necessary under exceptional conditions.
As a nile, both shnibs Iiloom freely without trouble, and
there is no golden rule by which you can hasten
flowering.
TO DESTROY TREE STUMPS (A/m A. C.).— There is
no easy means of destroying stumps of trees left in the
ground. By uncovering the main roots and boring holes
i inch or so in diameter in them and fllling them with
salt, it is possible to kill the stumps, bvit there is little
chance of hastening the rotting process. It is always
cheaper in the end to extract roots at the time the trees
are felled, for they are a, bother for some years if left in
the ground which is reqiured for a garden. You can kill
the trees and make them suitable for supports fbr Hoses
by removing a circle of bark 6 inches wide from near the
ground ; that may be done at once. Clematises may still
be planted, although it is better to plant them a month
earlier. It is not advi.iable to cut such plants as Aubrietias,
Alyssums and Armerias back, but if they are outgrowing
their positions, root some young plants in May and destroy
the old ones. If your Christmas Roses are doing well
where they are, do not disturb them. We imagine, how-
ever, that the position is rather sunny and dry for them.
A moist and rather shady place is more to their likinii,
but do not change them about from one place to annUi.r
for flowering. They dislike constant root disturiiaucc
The most inexpensive way to procure broken paving stom-
for your path would be to obtain it from a local buildt'r or
road contractor; perhaps the local surveyor could assist
you.
No. 2212.— Vol. LXXVIII.
GARDEN.
""^S'"
Idsl^^
April ii, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Violet La Belle Parisienne. — At the first
slance this double Violet is uncommonly like
our old friend Marie Louise, but a closer inspection
proves it to be a distinct improvement on tiiat
variety. The blooms are larger, have stouter
flower-stems, and tlie colour of the petals is not
so red as those of Marie Louise. This is a
Violet that is sure to be more largely grown
when it becomes more generally known.
Thinning Out Shoots of Herbaceous
PVlants. — As the stronger-growing plants
will now be advancing in growth, they
should have their shoots reduced. This
will not only strengthen those that are
left, but will give less trouble in staking
and tying. Tliis will be more necessary
with such plants as Phloxes and Asters
(Michaelmas Daisies). The latter especi-
ally soon get out of hand, and when
staked greatly resemble a sack tied in the
middle.
A Rare Alpine (Shortia uniflora
grandiflora) . — About four years ago this
variety received an award of merit from
the Royal Horticultural Society. It is
still rare in cultivation and the most
exquisite form of a small but delightful
genus, of which only two species are in
cultivation. The pink suffused, bell-shaped
blossoms are fringed, while the ruddy
stems appearing above the small crimson
leaves render it a most desirable plant,
Shortia uniflora, native of Japan, is quite
eclipsed by its variety grandiflora in size
of flower, while its close relative, S. galaci-
folia, from North Carolina, is distinguished
by a much larger leaf growth and semi-
nodding flowers. The cultivation of
Shortias is so far imperfectly understood
in this country, but a choice position in a
damp, half-shady place seems to suit them
very well.
Spring Treatment of Violets.— Plants
that were flowered in frames or pits
might now reasonably be dispensed with,
seeing that those out of doors will
be in bloom ; besides, the frames
will be required for other purposes. If a young
stock of plants were not rooted in the autumn,
it will be necessary to secure the stock from those
just being turned out. These semi-rooted cuttings
should be planted at once in a specially prepared
border somewhere away from the direct rays
of the sun, and kept well watered during hot
weather until they are well established. .As
red spider is very troublesome to Violets,
the plants should be sprayed over every
afternoon, and an occasional dusting of soot will
also assist in keeping them free, besides acting
as a fertiliser.
Malmaison Carnations. — Plants that were
potted in the autumn will now be growing freely,
and if they were not staked at the time, this should
be seen to at once. We have seen fine specimens
receive a severe check through delaying this
work into the growing season. It breaks up
SHORTIA UNIFLORA GRANDIFLORA, AN EXQUISITE
ALPINE WITH PINK, FRINGED FLOWERS.
the fine web-like roots, which causes the foliage
to become yellow. It will not be advisable to
commence feeding these Carnations until the
pots are well filled with roots.
A Quick-Growing Climber.— For covering
tree stumps, walls, fences or unsightly objects,
Eccremocarpus scaber is very useful. Seeds
sown now and the seedlings pricked out when
large enough will make good plants for putting
out by June. With a little assistance the young
plants soon cling to the objects against which
they are planted, and their orange-coloured,
tubular flowers appear in great profusion through-
out the summer and autumn. Although a
perennial, good results can be obtained by treating
it as an annual.
Cocoa-Pods at Kew. — A small tree of Theobroma
Cacao, the Cocoa Tree of commerce, will prove a
source of considerable attraction to visitors at Kew
during the Easter holidays. Some 8 feet iji
height, planted out in one of the beds
in the large Palm House, four pods are
maturing on the tree. These are 5 inches
to 6 inches long and about 3 inclies
in diameter near the centre, with
prominent ribs. The colour at present
is light green, this gradually changing
to yellow as the fruits mature. Each
one, when it bursts, is expected to contain
fifty or more seeds.
The Sea Lavenders. — There are several
hardy and half-hardy species of Statice,
either of an annual, biennial or perennial
character, that are well worthy of culti-
vation. The paper-like flowers are of
great value in a cut state for winter
decoration. Apart from this, they are
very decorative when fresh, either in beds
or borders, while plants of a dwarf habit
are quite suitable for planting on the
rockery. They are readily raised from
seed, which should be sown now in pots
and the seedlings pricked off when large
enough. The perennial ones can be
increased by division, the present time
being suitable.
The Night-Scented Stock.— We would
remind readers before it is too late about
the charm of the Night-scented Stock,
which is our usual English name of the
plant signalised by the Latin appellation
of Matthiola bicomis. We have heard of
the Virginian Stock (Malcolmia maritima)
having jbeen purchased in mistake for the
real Simon pure, impossible as it seems
to fall into such an error. Every
evening and all night long the Night-
scented Stock gives out a delightful incense
sort of smell, which never seems to pall upon
our olfactory nerves. To those who do not know
it, we would say that it should not be planted in
a prominent position, as its blooms close up during
the daytime and give it a woe-begone appearance.
It should be sown where it is to bloom, and the
seedlings thinned out to about two inches apart
every way. It is a plant for close association
with the dwelling-house.
I
1.78
THE GARDEN.
[April ii. 11114.
CORRESPONDENCE.
{T!ie Editor is not responsible for the opiiiioJis
expressed by correspondents.)
Galanthus Ikariae. — I have grown this Snow-
drop for the last six years on a rockery with a full
northern exposure, and have always found it
quite satisfactory, both in foliage and flower.
On March 27 it was in full bloom. This I regard
as one of the best of Snowdrops, coming in as it
does so late, and so pure in colour, too. I look
upon it as one of the best of spring-flowering
bulbs.— E. M., Hants.
The Horseshoe Fern.— On page 3 of The
CiRDEX for January 3 there is a paragraph on
the Horseshoe Fern. The New Zealand Horseshoe
Fern is Marattia fraxinea. It is called " Horseshoe "
because of the peculiar shape of the root, which
resembles a hoof. It is very rare, and is only
known to grow in the vicinity of Mount Egmont
in deep gullies in wet situations. It is a very
ornamental evergreen Fern, and has fronds of
considerable length. The Kidney Fern is quite
j be much more extensively grown. I do not find
I that its cultivation differs from that given to
ordinary Tulips, except that it shoidd have very
well-drained soil and a sunny position. It is when
the flowers are fully open that their glorious
yellow centres are fully revealed, this rich colour
contrasting well with the pale cream hue of the
upper parts of the segments. The flowers are
variable, some being much more heavily marked
with carmine on the exterior than others. — A. B.
Essex. [We publish herewith an illustration
of a bed of this beautiful early Tulip, which, as
our correspondent states, ought to be more
extensively grown. — Ed.]
Lachenalias for Baskets. — The excellent repro-
duction of a pot of these charming spring-flowering
plants on page 154, issue March 28, should
do a great deal towards extending and improv-
ing their cultivation. I would like, however,
to draw attention to their usefulness for baskets,
for though they are excellent when grown in pots,
they are also a beautiful sight when in full flower
and suspended from the roof in a cool house
just above one's head. The method of growing
THE HIGHLY-COLOURED WATER LILY TULIP (tULIPA KAUFMANNIANA).
difierent, being a Trichomanes, as stated in the
note. — L. Stowe, Tiakiwai, Tinakori Road,
Wellington, New Zealand.
The Use of Narcissus Seedlings. — The waste
in Daffodil seedling raising is proverbial, but
we find the M. J. Berkeley seedlings a notable
exception to the rule. For some years we have
made a practice of crossing M. J. Berkeley with
difierent forms of Poeticus, and even after all
the best resulting plants are picked out, the
remainder afford excellent decorative material.
There is scarcely a flower among them that cannot
be made use of, as they have fine long stems
and ample foliage. Almost all of them come in
useful for vases, and a number make fine garden
plants. — F. Herbert Chapman.
The Water Lily Tulip. — I am sending you a
few flowers of this charming Tulip, which is listed
in most catalogues under its botanical name of
Tulipa kaufmanniana. I feel sure that if other
readers only knew how beautiful it is during the
latter days of March and early in April it would
them in tliis way is very simple. The wire basket,
whatever the size may be, is lined with some long
moss, pressed firmly on the bottom and round
the sides, say, about half an inch thick. Then
commence filling with a compost of fibrous loam
and leaf-mould, with a liberal addition of sharp
grit and a little finely pulverised sheep-manure.
Place about as much soil at the bottom of the
basket as there is moss, and lay the bulbs upside
down at about four inches apart ; then cover
with soil and gradually fill the basket, at the
same time working the bulbs equidistant around
the sides, and finishing off on top with a layer
to grow upright, so that the bottom, sides and
top will all be furnished. When growth is fairly
free, a little liquid manure will considerably assist
them to produce strong foliage and flower-spikes,
especially if alternated with the addition of some
approved fertiliser stirred in the water ; but care
should be taken not to allow any liquid manure
to get in the axils of the leaves, or the young
spikes may decay. — South Wales.
Cistus ladaniferus maculatus.— What a useful
plant this is for filling up gaps on a south, east or
west wall, where a plant of another kind has sud-
denly died or is becoming too large for its present
position ! Plants are easily raised from cuttings
inserted in a cold frame in September. If put out in
the April following, they quickly grow into stocky
plants, and can be planted at any time of the year
if lifted carefully with a ball of soil attached to
the roots. It is a subject to have always at hand
ready for an emergency. The blossoms are full\-
4 inches wide, pure white, with a dark blood-
coloured blotch on each petal. It is no doubt a
sport from C. ladaniferus, which was introduced
from Spain in 1629. — M.
Lilium nepalense. — in The Garden for
March 28, page 159, this Lily is said to have been
introduced in 1855 from the Central Himalayas.
I am aware that this is the date given in different
works for its introduction, but it is described as a
white-flowered species, which L. nepalense, as we
Imow it, certainly is not. It is very questionable
whether L. nepalense ever flowered in this country
till it reached that stage in the nursery of Messrs.
Low, then of Clapton, in the summer of 1888.
The bulbs were obtained from Upper Burmah
during a military expedition into that country.
Quite a furore was created on September 11 of
the year just named, when this Lily was first
shown in public at a meeting of the Royal Horti-
cultural Society. It was unanimously awarded
a first-class certificate, and though this honour
was more easily gained then than it is now, there
is no doubt that it was, in this case, well deserved.
In the summer of the following year (1889) Messrs.
Low received a similar award for L. wallichianum
superbum, whose name was after a year or two
changed to L. sulphureum, and as such it is still
largely grown. Under cultivation it has proved
to be more robust in constitution than L. nepalense.
After this, from the same source, Messrs. Low
gave us L. claptonense, subsequently known as L.
primulinum, and L. Lowii, both of which seem
to have dropped out of cultivation. — H. P.
Mertensia Mawsonii. — I wonder if any of
your readers can enlighten me ae to the name
of an exceedingly beautiful Mertensia which I
have on my rockery labelled as Mawsonii ? It
is a dwarf replica of Anchusa italica Dropmore
variety, grows no more than 5 inches or 6 inches
high, and flowers profusely in the early part of
March. Its beautiful relative, M. echioides,
grows here like a weed on the cool side of the
moraine. With regard to your note on page 153
of March 28 issue, I cannot agree for a moment
that that delightful little flower, Chionodoxa
sardensis, is a gentian blue, beautiful though it
may be. We are becoming very loose in our
application of the term " gentian blue." If it
is to be used in describing Chionodoxa sardensis,
we must invent some other colour description
for the Gentians. I am further respectfully at
variance with you as to the flowering of this little
bulb. I have a few himdreds, planted last autumn,
which are vastly superior in flower to my established
clumps. If Chionodoxas are not at their best
in their first season, the inference is that the dealer
from whom they were purchased sent out second
or third class bulbs. — Raymond E. Negus,
Walton-on-Thames . [We do not think the experi-
ence of Mr. Negus with Chionodoxa sardensis is
a common one. We have always found established
bulbs of this and C. Luciliaj to give better flowers
than newly planted ones. We should be glad to hear
what other readers have to say on the point. — Ed. ]
April ii, 1914.J
THE GARDEN.
179
Tulip Jenny. — As I write these lines a pot of
Tulip Jenny is on a table about two yards
away from my desl;. I had forgotten it was
there until I had been writing about a quarter
of an hour. As soon, however, as the room began
to get a little warmer, delicious puffs qf sweetness
came with increasing persistence, as much as to
say, " You must notice me." Importunity con-
quered. I went and buried my nose in its pretty
rosy (or, to be accurate, pomegranate purple)
blooms. What was the scent like ? A friend
suggested Hawthorn. Hawthorn it undoubtedly
is. Here, then, is a good name to describe it by
to one's friends — the Hawthorn-scented Tulip.
Try it next spring and sec if this is not right. —
Joseph Jacob.
Shading Delicate Seedlings. — Now that the
sun has considerable power, it is very essential
that delicate seedlings of such things as Begonias
and Gloxinias should not be exposed to the full
rays thereof. This caution is particularly neces-
sary when the sun is obscured only occasionally
by passing clouds, as a few minutes' exposure
may do a great deal of mischief. At the same
time, the young plants should have as much light
as possible in order to encourage a good, sturdy
growth. This caution against direct sunshine is
particularly necessary when minute seeds are sown
and covered with a sheet of glass, as the sun
quickly sets up an intense heat under the glass and
the germinating seeds are simply roasted. — H. P.
Sparrows Eating Yellow Crocuses. — Writing
on this subject on page 143, issue March 21,
Miss E. A. Patch states that those who have
studied the subject of colour will know that red
inspires fear in birds and animals. My experience
has been that some birds, blackbirds for instance,
have little fear of red fruits. I wish they had.
What a lot of trouble and expense might be saved
if only the birds, through fear, refrained from
attacking our crops of Red Currants, Strawberries
and Raspberries ! I have had red Tomatoes
pecked by birds, not because the latter were
suffering from thirst, as the garden was on the
bank of a river. — Colin Ruse.
I have gathered many hints from The Gar-
den, and am pleased to return one which I thought
was well known. An enquiry on this subject was
made by Miss E. A. Patch in your issue of March 21,
page 143. Thirty years ago sparrows tore
and scattered my yellow Crocuses, but I stopped
them the following season. For that length
of time I have had yellow Crocuses planted in
the grass, i foot wide, on each side of the drive,
30 yards or more long. Last September I planted
nearly two thousand Mammoth Golden Yellow
on the edges of the drive, removing all old bulbs,
and although they have been flowering in their
tens of thousands for the past month, not one of
them has been pecked by sparrows, which are
very numerous. When the Crocuses grow above
the stu'face of the grass and indicate the position
of each, from stout twigs I cut 6-inch lengths and
place firmly in the ground, two opposite each other,
on each side of the Crocuses. Four feet from these
I place another pair, and so on, to the end of the
Crocus border. Then I get a reel of ordinary black
cotton, fasten the cotton to the outer end twig,
take it to the inner twig, and so on, outer and inner
to the end ; then return the cotton fastened to
the reverse twigs, and this gives crossed threads
every 4 feet. Neither twigs nor cotton can be
seen by the human eye when the flowers appear,
but the sparrows can see them and for a time keep
I entirely from the garden. — W. H. W.. Levmshulmc.
In the issue of March 21, page 143, Miss
Patch in her interesting contribution makes note
of the damage done by sparrows eating yellow
Crocuses. In this and a neighbouring garden,
whether in small cluriips or large masses, sparrows
made no distinction between colours, treating
all alike — white, yellow, to deep piurple — tearing
the petals to shreds in order to get at the repro-
ductive organs of the flowers. Miss Patch mentions
that red inspires fear in birds and animals, while
yellow appears attractive. From experience during
the past three months, I find fowls eat red Camellia
petals as greedily as they would green vegetables,
probably owing to their thick, fleshy nature.
In the summer they have a like fondness for
Rose petals. — S. H., Stirling, N.B.
Saxifraga burseriana and its Varieties. —
With great interest I have read Mr. Raymond E.
Negus' very instructive note on the above
(page 143, issue March 21). On one point,
however, it has wrought confusion in my mind,
viz., what is considered to be " the type," of which
Mr. Negus speaks in several places ? I always
understood the form which occurs on the heights
arouiid the City of Trient in the Southern Tyrol
(hence tridentina) was S. b. major, while
the form found on the Swiss mountains was S. b.
minor, the former being of a more loose habit
of growth, with larger rosettes and larger flowers ;
the latter of more compact -growing cushions,
with smaller rosettes and smaller flowers. The
Swiss form is, moreover, distinct in its deeper-
coloured flower-stalks and calyces. These two
are very distinct forms ; probably, however,
only as a consequence of different climatic con-
ditions. The warmer Southern Tyrol would
naturally produce in course of time a stronger
growth of all parts, and the later flowering period
of S. b. minor can be taken as the inheritance
of its colder home. But now there is a third form
found on the mountains of the Northern Tyrol
which keeps the middle of the two in character.
In the face of these three distinct forms, varying
as they do according to their different homes,
it is difficult to judge which of them Mr. Negus
means by " the type " of which he speaks. The
fact that, as Mr. Negus states, S. b. Gloria " does
not come true from seed," coupled with his other
statement that his particularly large-flowered
specimen — if I understand him aright — bears
" two, or possibly three, flowers " on the one
stem, would point to the probability of S. b.
Gloria being a hybrid, for even twin flowers aie
extremely rare in either of the species. If it were not
for this multiple inflorescence, S. b. Gloria might
still be considered as having been selected as a
giant variety of the tridentina form, for there
are great differences as to size of flowers in the
individual plants as they occur in Nature. Some
of the petals are so narrow at their bases as to leive
open spaces between them similar to S. granulata,
while others have rounded petals often overlapping
each other. S. b. minor has mostly circular and
overlapping petals. Among a batch received
last year, there is at present also one in flower
with crenated edges to the petals ; they are
deeply lacerated, almost like a Soldanella. It
remains to be seen whether this peculiarity will
prove constant. — E. Heinrich, Planegg, Bavaria.
FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
April 15. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meet-
ing and Special Daffodil Show (two days).
April 17. — Huntingdon Daffodil and Spring
Flower Show.
HARDY ASIATIC PRIMULAS,
NEITHER CHINESE NOR HIMA-
LAYAN.
EXCLUDING the Chinese and Himalayan
species of Primula, those from other
parts of Asia form a valuable series ol
hardy flowers. Professor Bayley
Balfour treated this section in a
masterly manner in his papers at the
Primula Conference in 1913, and I have been greatly
indebted to him for much information respecting
these plants. Professor Balfour reckons some
forty species, including microforms, as coming
into the area. I have had experience of the follow-
ing, which together form a most interesting and
beautiful collection. I am again following Professor
Bayley Balfour's classification.
P. acaulis (Linn., Hill). — It will suffice to
remark regarding the ordinary Primula acaulis,
our native Primrose, that it is indigenous in
Armenia, and that there the type does not dift'er
to any noticeable degree from our own wilding.
In North Persia a hairy form called heterochroma
is to be found, where it was collected by Polak
and Piehler and described by Stapf. It appears
to be of little horticultural interest. Of more
interest, however, is the other microform of
P. acaulis, called P. Sibthorpii (Hoffmannsegg),
which is P. acaulis var. rubra (Sibthorp and
Smith), the red-flowered Primrose which occurs
in the Caucasus and spreads to North Persia, as
well as in Greece, and which is considered to be the
parent of our red, pink, purple, and blue Prim-
roses. In connection with this it may be mentioned
that Miller speaks of the purple Primrose as that
of Constantinople, that city probably being the
medium of its introduction to European gardens.
This plant is frequently called P. amcena, which
will be referred to under P.elatior.
P. altaica (Lehmann). — So much confusion
exists regarding the name of P. altaica that it
would be preferable to abandon its use. The
name rightly belongs to a form of P. farinosa.
called by Pax P. farinosa subspecies davurica var.
intermedia. This is the plant figured as P. inter-
media (Sims) in the Botanical Magazine for 1809.
The nomenclature of P. amcena and P. altaica
is rather too intricate to discuss in the space
available.
P. algida (Adam). — This is one of the Primulas
of the Farinosa section and closely related to
the Bird's-eye Primrose, P. farinosa, from which
it principally differs by its large spatulate, obtuse,
finely toothed leaves, its large corolla of an intense
violet colour, and, above all, by its globular
capsule, which is longer than the calyx. It is
not troublesome to grow in some gardens when
established, but some find- a difficulty in retaining
it. P. algida, of which there are several varieties,
is of a bog-loving nature, and likes peat and loam
in half shade. It ranges from the Caucasus to
Afghanistan and the Altai.
P. amcsna (Bieb.). — This, the true P. amoena,
differs in its general appearance from P. Sibthorpii,
mainly by its possession of a distinct scape. It
is to P. Sibthorpii what P. elatior is to P. acaulis.
It has, of course, no relation to P. cortusoides
amcena of gardens. P. amoena has been cifltivated
since 1831, but so far as I know it is not at present
in cultivation in this country. It is a charming
plant and ought to come back — a far better thing
than many others that are fancied.
P. auriculata (Lam.). — Like P. algida, the
above is wn'dely spread in Asia, and occupies the
180
THE GARDEN.
[April ii, 1914.
PRIMULA ALGIDA,
A HARDY SPECIES WITH DEEP VIOLET
FLOWERS.
whole ■ plant is more or less
covered with a silky pubescence.
It is easily grown in common
soil.
P. datialioa (Rupxecht).— A
rare little plant, after the
fashion of P. farinosa, and a
[lative of the Caucasus. The
plants included under the name
appear to vary, and this is in
■ iccord with Pax's descriptions
of the species and its forms.
The flowers are rose and the
leaves mealy, but sometimes free
from farina. Moist soil or
pots.
P. elatior (Linn., Hill).—
Of the microforms of P. elatior,
the O.xlip, which occurs in the
Caucasus and Armenia, mention
may be made of P. cordifolia,
(Rupr.) and P. Pallasii (Lehm,),
though not of special garden
worth. They are distinguished
mainly by the form of the
leaves.
P. davurica (Spreng.). — This
is a microfonu of P. farinosa,
which has rose or rose lilac
flowers, and of which there are
two or three varieties. The
leaves are, however, without or
THE ROCK GARDEN.
THE GREAT HEPATICA.
(Anemone angulosa.)
This is o)xe of the many spring-flowering Anemones
that should be given prominence in the rock
garden. The flowers are clear sky blue, like
those of the Hepatica (Anemone Hepatica), but
much larger ; there is also a white form, somewhat
uncommon, named alba. This plant needs a deep,
light soil ; in cold, damp situations the plants
are inclined to lose their foliage. .-^ very effective
way of growing Hepaticas in the rock garden is
to plant them among creeping Sedums or Mossy
Saxifrages, the green carpet adding materially
to the effect. They may also be used as an edging
to beds of spring flowers or along the margins
of woodland walks. This plant is quite often met
with under the name of Hepatica angulosa. It
is perfectly hardy, and may be increased by seed
or by division of the roots.
SEDUM PULCHELLUM.
Among all the numerous members of the Stone-
crop family, I know of no more attractive species
than this. It is indeed a most charming plant,
possessing all the attributes of a really good rock
garden subject, and well worthy of a position on the
most select rockeries. It is an evergreen species,
producing numerous growths from a central tuft.
As these lengthen they very much resemble the
same districts to a great extent. It belongs to
the section Auriculata, and was figured under the
name of P. longifolia in the Botanical Magazine
for 1797, t. 392, while Maund gives a good figure
of it under the same name. It has a strong resem-
blance to the other members of the section, and
has long leaves and umbels of rose, violet, or
lilac flowers. It likes a cool, moist place in the
garden in half shade.
P. Bayernii (Rupr,). — The typical P. nivalis
is referred to later, but one of its microforms,
P. Bayernii (Ruprecht) may now be mentioned.
It is a pleasing form, which has a distinct mealy
toothed beading along the margins of the leaves
and white flowers, and the calyx is sometimes
greenish purple. This is a good grower in moist
soil. It comes from the Caucasus.
P. capitellata (Boiss.). — The true P. capitellata
(Boissier) is not in commerce, and that of gardens
is a variety of P. auriculata. It is an easy plant
to grow if given a moist soil and similar conditions
to those of P. auriculata. The true plant has
farinose foliage and its flowers crowded in a farinose
head of rose or purple flowers.
P. Columnae (Tenore). — This occurs in the
Caucasus and Armenia, and is there a rather rare
microform of P. officinalis, the Cowslip. It has
yellow flowers, and is not of special garden interest.
Primula macrocalyx (Bunge) is another yellow
microform of P. officinahs.
P. cortusoides (Linn.). — Apart from the con-
fusion existing through P. Sieboldii (E. Morren)
being often called P. cortusoides, with or without
the addition of the word " amoena," the true
P. cortusoides has often been confounded with
P. saxatilis. The distinction lies in the fact
that P. cortusoides has very short pedicels, and
P. saxatilis very long ones. It is a pleasing plant
of the Cortusoides section, with rose or red
flowers, and with petiolate, lobed leaves. The
only sparsely fur-
nished with farina.
It is foimd over a
wide area from the
Caucasus and
through Turkestan,
&c. It requires the
same treatment as
P. farinosa.
P . g r a n d i s
(Trautv.). — Those
who expect to find in
P. grandis one of the
finest of the race, as
the name might
suggest, will be pro-
foundly disappointed
with it. The name
is applied on accoimt
of the large leaves ;
but the flowers,
which are yellow,
are small, narrow-
petalled, and want-
ing in grace and
colour effect. They
are borne in umbels
on tall stems. This
species, which
belongs to the section
Svedinskya, is a
lover of moisture,
and should be
planted by the side
of a pond or
stream. P. grandis
is a native of the
Caucasus.
John MACWArr.
Morelands, Duns.
{To be contimtcd.)
ANEMONE ANGULOSA,
A DAINTY LITTLE PLANT
GARDEN IN SPRING.
FOR THE ROCK
April ii, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
181
young growing shoots of a Spruce Fir, their narrow,
pointed leaves being about an inch in length.
These, when mature, assume a most beautiful
shade of red, and the contrast between these
and the young, fresh green growths pushing up
from the base gives the whole plant a most delight-
ful appearance. The branches, which are slender
and from 3 inches to 6 inches or 8 inches in length,
are trailing in habit, but ascending at the tips,
upon which are borne the three to five — usually
the latter — branched cymes of beautiful rosy
purple flowers, arranged closely together in two rows
on the upper surface. I may say that frequently
flowers are produced from the sides of the branches,
l)ut it is more usual for them to be borne only upon
the tips. The " arms " of the cyme vary from
1 1 inches to 2 J inches in length, although I
liave known them to measure quite 5 inches —
that is, 10 inches from the tip of one arm
to the tip of the one opposite — but that is
unusual. In outline they bear a marked
resemblance to a starfish. Its season of
flowering is a long one, a succession of
flowering shoots continuing to push up
from the base until checked by frost. Its
cultivation is of the simplest. Here I
have it growing on a rockery in full sun
in a compost of loam and limestone
chippings in about equal proportions,
with a good layer of the latter on the
surface.
It grows very rapidly. The rockery upon
which it is growing was rebuilt a year ago
and six or seven small tufts planted on
a ledge behind a stone, and these have
developed into a patch about two feet
across. Like most Sedums, it is easily
propagated. The flower-stems, as they
lie upon the ground, emit roots, and
the numerous growths which develop
along its whole length offer a ready means
of increase. J. D. Halliburton.
Botanic Gardens, Bath.
THE ALPINE FLAX.
LiNUM ALPiNUM, the Alpine Flax, may
have few or none of the virtues and utili-
ties of the common Flax, but it has
beauties which certainly commend it to
the lover of dwarf flowers for the
rock garden. This pretty Alpine Flax
is of a neat habit of growth — its
height is rarely more than from
6 inches to 8 inches, it has
light and elegant foliage of the most
fairy-like order, while its blooms are of a
delightful shade of blue, and, when in bloom in
summer, almost cover the plant with their delicate
beauty. Nor is it dif&cult to cultivate, especially
when a plant has once become established. It
likes a free, open and dry soil, and to be planted
in a sunny place. Yet it seems to appreciate a
fair amount of moisture in summer ; and a good
plant in the writer's garden, which has been placed
on the lowest terrace of a little rockery, where it
receives a good deal of the surplus moisture from
above, flourishes excellently and gives a sheet of
bloom on its fragile stems. Linum alpinum can
be raised from seeds, which are best sown at this
season under glass and the seedlings pricked ofi
as soon as they can be handled into other pots
or boxes about two inches apart and grown on a
little before planting out. It can also be increased
by dividing established plants in spring. S. A.
DAFFODIL NOTES.
GROUPS AND FLOWERS AT THE
ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S
SHOW ON MARCH 24.
{Continued from page 168.)
I
denominator, one which, subjectively con-
sidered from the putter-up's point of view,
is irritating and perplexing ; but which,
objectively, from the walker-about's standpoint,
is sometimes attractive and inviting, and some-
times, using the word in its ancient Tulip sense,
bizarre. More difficult far than the most abstruse
proposition of our old schooldays' friend, Mr.
raised upon a square pedestal in the centre of
each. The idea was ingenious, and is a decided
" break " ; but the introduction on this occasion
of a brown background when all the rest was
covered with green seemed to me just to spoil it.
And now for the individual flowers. Beginning
with this group of Mr. Bourne's. Here were
T is quite unintentional on my part, but I ; numerous examples of good standard varieties,
find the three groups which will occupy the only new one being a very pretty little round
my attention in these notes have a common white-perianthed Barrii with a large Poet-looking
eye. It was not named. Then there was Millie
Price, a nice little pale green-eyed Poet ; also
Lemon Belle, a pale lemon, long vase-shaped
variety, which Mr. Bourne tells me does splendidly
with him at Bletchley ; also Red Chief, with its
wide, deep orange red rimmed cup, as good in
the open as in pots, cheap at its price ; also Cygnet,
the late pale bicolor trumpet, which always looks
effective in a group, possibly because of its
clear-cut trumpet. Then there was Judge
Bird, a large pointed flower of the same
section as Cygnet ; also White Knight, to
me the very acme of refinement in pure
white trumpets, a flower that at its best can,
in sporting parlance, show its heels to any
other. Fancy this gem being grown in pots !
It is still (1914) listed at four guineas ;
but, remember, last year it was seven.
Among Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin's
flowers three were fine novelties. I write of
them in the order in which I would like to
have them. First, Chryse, a cross between
King Alfred and a Campemelle Jonquil.
It might have been the true Jonquilla
odorus Campanelle seen through a big
magnifying-glass. It featured it so much,
especially as it bore two blooms on a stem.
I do -not think I have ever seen anything
like it. It gets aAvay from the Buttercup
style, with which we are now becoming
familiar. Its dimensions are as follow :
Diameter of perianth, 3^ inches ; length of
cup, I J inches; diameterof its top, i J inches.
If I could not have Chryse, then give me
Supremacy, a pale yellow Ajax, distin-
guished by its long, dehcate-looking trumpet
and its pointed perianth segments. It is a
seedling from King Alfred crossed with the
Rev. D. R. Williamson. As it is ore of the
first of their home-made'seedlings, I take the
opportunity of congratulating the firm
upon their achievement. Measurements :
4 J inches by ij inches by ij inches (this
width only at the very top). Failing these
two, I would then go for Gold Wolf. This is
another Ajax, but the very opposite in
almost every detail to Supremacy. It is
deep yellow in colour, is a round more than a
pointed flower, and is decidedly squat-looking,
as the measurements of its trumpet will show.
Length of same, iJ inches ; width at mouth,
2 inches. We want these difierences in general
appearance, and of the thick set style this is a good
example. Ivorine, a great favourite of mine
(Section 4), looked very well among some yellows.
I also thought Amphion, a new buff and orange
double, very attractive ; perhaps it was owing
the similarity of its shape to that of .Argent.
Now I come to Messrs. Barr and Sons' exhibit.
It was beautifully arranged and staged. I doubt
if I have ever seen a large group that on the whole
I liked better. The pot plants seemed a little
discordant, and I wished they had not been there,
or, at any rate, had been put at the extreme comer
end. There were a goodly quantity of seedlings, all
NARCISSUS WHITE KNIGHT, A REFINED WHITE-
FLOWERED VARIETY. NOTE THE LENGTH OF
THE TRUMPET.
Drive-me-mad Euclid, is the problem of how to
be original in the display of Daffodil blooms
in and on a something that by the necessity of
the case might almost be called " a line," which,
as the aforementioned author tells us, is " length
without breadth." The little group of which
I am about to write has made the attempt.
For some time past we have been familiar with
the flattened crescent of Messrs. Cartwright and
Goodwin, with its Isolepis clad tier upon tier.
Now we have Mr. Bourne and Messrs. Barr
and Sons essaying the same hard task. The
latter firm gave us a graceful undulation, clothed
in the best of taste. It was a fine effort. Mr.
Bourne had a more set piece. A half circular
tiered stand occupied the middle of his display,
at either end a quarter one. The two spaces
between were flat, with a large Bamboo vase
182
THE GARDEN.
[April ii, 1914.
under numbers, and for the most part only repre-
sented by one or two blooms. These it is impossible
to describe. Of the named varieties, the following,
for one reason or another, deserve honourable
mention : Sunrise was before the cbmmittee,
and received an award for cutting. The yellow
ray in each petal which shocked the purists when it
first appeared has been " sized up " by the public as
one of its charms. It says much for it that every
retail firm wants to buy it. Isis is a drooping
bloom, which Mr. Rudolph Barr told me came
out of the same seed-pod as King George V. and
Miss Willmott. It is a sort of pale yellow King
George V., which in turn is Miss Willmott made
into a better show bloom than it is. Diameter
of flower, 3 J inches ; diameter of petal, r J inches ;
width of cup, three-quarters of an inch. Messina,
which was represented by one perfect bloom,
is a borderland plant. Up to now the Poet section
has claimed it, and it appears in Messrs. Barr
on. Twenty years back — why that was the
year of " naughty " Weardale's first public
appearance; only "naughty" because it was
so dear (twelve guineas). " Naughty," as the
little boy called the bird which his father had
missed after a very easy shot. The bottom of
my paper has " cut me off." I am once more
before Sensation. It has been grown in pots,
and looks well among all the new-comers. A
half-crown will buy twelve. A half-crown might
be worse spent. Joseph Jacob.
FORSYTHIA SUSPENSA.
In the latter part of March and early April Forsythia
suspensa is one of the most beautiful of all hardy
shrubs, for at this season its long, drooping branches
are wTeathed in bright yellow, bell-shaped flowers.
It is a shrub that can be depended upon to flower
well every spring, and many pretty effects can
ROSE-GROWING IN
GARDENS.
TOWN
Twr P-
FORSYTHIA'' .SUSPENSA OR GOLDEN BELL, ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL OF EARLY
FLOWERING HARDY SHRUBS.
and Sons' 1914 list as such. But I think this
is wrong. For one thing, the periantli is not
that dead white which is the feature of all others
of a true-bred Poet ; and, secondly, its early
flowering (it came from the open at Penzance)
is rather a hint to doubt it a priori. The solid
orange brick red eye, surrounded by a round,
imbricated perianth, give us a very pretty bit
of coloiu: ; but not, I think, a Poet.
A vase of Sensation brought back old times
to my memory. I can remember the days when
it ranked high in our estimation. Twenty years
ago it was priced at 4s. 6d. each, which, in propor-
tion to the present charges for new varieties,
was a high figure. Mme. de Graafi was but £3
and Glory of Leiden a guinea ; Gloria Mundi,
30S. ; Duchess of Westminster, 4s. 6d. ; and so
be obtained by carpeting the surrounding ground
with Chionodoxas, Grape Hyacinths or other
spring-flowering bulbs. F. suspensa is a loose-
growing shrub of more or less rambling habit,
and it does very well against a wall, railing or
fence. It is perhaps seen to the best advantage
when grown as large isolated bushes on lawns,
or, in a semi-wild part of the garden where
the long shoots are not too restricted for space.
The bush illustrated on this page is growing
in such a position, and here the arching shoots,
which are profusely flowered, droop down for
8 feet or more and root into the soil.
Overcrowded shoots should be thinned out
after flowering, but one should avoid pruning
this shrub like a hedge, which is to deprive it
of its truly graceftj and drooping habit.
Standard Roses add greatly to the attractions
of a town garden, but they should be employed '
with moderation, as a too free use of them tends
towards formality, which it is generally desirable
to avoid. They are useful aids to effect, and
enable the gardener to. obtain raised and isolated
patches of colour at certain spots where it is not
convenient or expedient to plant climbers. They
have also the advantage that the blooms may
be examined with greater ease and without the
discomfort of stooping. On the other hand,
one cannot expect such good blooms as from
dwarf trees, and very rarely is it possible to get
them up to exhibition size without hampering
the development of the head. Only the most
vigorous kinds are suitable for growing as standards,
and even with these there is often a large per-
centage of losses. One frequent cause of this
is that Briars are often budded before fibrous
roots have formed, and club roots alone will seldom
provide a plant with sufficient nourishment after
being transplanted. The gardener should make
a point of seeing standard trees before buying
them, and select only those with plenty of top
growth, which will indicate a fair proportion of
fibre at the roots.
Tall Weeping Standards are increasing in
favour. They make effective ornaments on large
lawns, though I think their use is rather
to be deprecated in small gardens. I have seen
them planted against a closely boarded fence,
the growths tied along trellis-work at the top,
and with low-growing climbers covering the
fence beneath. The arrangement was certainlj'
attractive, but the cost makes one a little chan,-
of recommending it. The choice of varieties
in weeping standards is generally limited to the
wichuraianas, with which they are usually budded ;
but Climbing Mrs. Cutbush should make an ideal
Rose for the purpose, for it possesses the enormous
advantage of being quite perpetual.
Ordinary Full Standards, with stems from
3j feet to 4j feet long, are generally employed
for planting at intervals around the edges of lawns,
and this is perhaps the best use to which they
can be put in town gardens. They may also be
planted down the centre of beds of other Roses
from 4 feet to 6 feet apart ; but beds of standards
by themselves never look well, and they force
upoii the onlooker an inevitable comparison
of stems, which creates anything but a favourable
impression. From their very nature they should
be isolated, for grouping only tends to bring out
ugly points, which are lost sight of when they
are planted with discretion.
For giving additional height to the centre of
a bed, half-standards are to be preferred, and
stems from ij feet to 2 feet long will amply suffice
to raise them above the level of suitable com-
panion trees. One frequently hears it stated
that some Tea Roses do best on standard stocks,
and certainly there are some varieties of spreading
habit of growth and with blooms inclined to
droop which may be better admired if grown
in this way, and, moreover, the flowers will not
become splashed from being too close to the
ground during heavy rains. But I do not think
there are any kinds which actually grow better
as standards, unless it be that the gardener has
not lightened his soil sufficiently to suit the warmth-
loving roots of the Teas. A point of importance
Supplement to THE GARDEN, April x\th, 1914
SUTTON'S NEW RED SUNFLOWER,
kudson » Ueanis, Ltd., Printers, Loudon, S.E.
i
April ii, lyi+j
with standards is to keep the steins clean and
free tri)m moss, a simple enough matter if the
grower will give them an' occasional wash with
fungicide. It is also most important to protect
all cut parts near the base, so as to avoid injury
from sawfly larva, and painting with enamel,
as recommended in a former article, will accom-
plish this. The two varieties better than all
others for standard Roses are Hugh Dickson and
Frau Karl Druschki, and, having regard to the
difficulty of obtaining really good heads in the
average town garden, most growers would do well
to rely entirely upon these two sorts. Others
which may be grown with fair, if not equal, hopes
of success are Mme. Abel Chatenay, Caroline
Testout, Mme. Ravary, Lady Ashtown, J. B.
Clark, Joseph Hill, Mme, Melanie Soupert ^
and La Tosca. P. L. Goddard.
THE GARDEN.
183
SEASONABLE NOTES ON
CHRYSANTHEMUMS.
FIRST BREAK : STOPPING
PLANTS.
UDGING from the present condition of
the plants, there seems to be a good
prospect of free and healthy growth,
at least during the first half of the
Chrysanthemum season. The plants
make rapid progress up to the stage
when the first bud appears and causes the break.
Then tjiey grow more slowly for a couple of weeks
THE
J
but the earliest sorts, making a natural break
in April or early in May, may show another bud
early in June. The resultant growth from the
second break in June will bear a good bud fit
for " taking " in August, and I have found that
such crown buds generally appear from August 15
to August 25, and they develop very kindly.
It is necessary to stop some late varieties,
else the work of the year would be thrown away.
We will take that well-known sort, the Hon.
Mrs. Lopes, as an example. If the plants
were allowed to grow naturally from the
cutting stage, their blooms would be practically
useless, having open centres full of seed florets,
with about two rows of guard petals. The blooms.
A NEW SUNFLOWER.
COLOURED PLATE 1491.
A T the great show held in the
/% grounds of Holland House,
/ % Kensington, at the com-
^~~^^ mencement of July last,
* ^ Messrs. Sutton and Sons,
Reading, exhibited for the
first time a Sunflower, with a rich
chestnut red band surrounding the disc.
This proved a great attraction to the
numerous visitors at that exhibition.
On Tuesday, July 29, a large exhibit
of the flowers, sent up from the firm's
trial grounds at Reading, was staged at
the fortnightly meeting held in the
Royal Horticultural Society's Hall,
Westminster, and gained the distinction
of the society's award of merit.
It is a' very striking flower, with a
broad band of chestnut red round the
base of the yellow petals, and is the
result of a cross made between Helian-
thus annuus (the common annual yellow
sunflower) and Helianthus lenticularis
coronatus (the common wild Sunflower of
North America) by Professor Cockerell
of Boulder University, Colorado, who
handed over his stock to Messrs. Sutton
for development. The cross was made
four years ago, and the strain has been
under observation since, and is now well
fixed. There has been no previous record
of this colour in the popular Helianthus
annuus, which is such a well-known and
favourite annual in English gardens.
Messrs. Sutton furnish us with the follow-
ing description of the new sunflower :
" A ' Gaillardia Sunflower * is ft very apt description
of this brilliant new variety. It is of the true
Helianthus annuus type, and we do not know a
more stately or impressive subject for tall borders.
As a dot plant, or grouped in the foreground of
shrubberies, it is particularly telling. The plant
is of free branching habit, producing numerous
well-shaped, dark-centred, brilliant flowers, banded
with bright chestnut red, mostly merging to yellow
at the tips of the petals. The smaller and medium
sized flowers, when cut with long stems, make a
unique and magnificent decoration in large vases,
and show to great advantage under artificial light.
We are indebted to Messrs. Sutton and Sons for
the use of the autochrome from which our
coloured plate has been prepared.
or so ; this is caused by the check through the
formation of the bud. It is natural, and is all ' such as they would be, would open at the end of
November. If, however, the plants are
stopped in April, the resultant shoots
would bear crown buds from July 25 to
August 10, and they would develop into
very fine, full blooms, rich in colour and
refined in form, about the first week in
November.
If we take the old variety Mrs. A. T.
Miller, which is a naturally early flower-
ing one, we find the best results from
non-stopping ; that is, the plant must be
allowed to grow in spring until a bud
appears — it generally comes during the
first half of May — then the resultant
shoots are grown on and, in due course,
bear the first crown bud, which usually
appears early in August — an ideal date
for the variety being August 15 — but the
buds often show quite a week earlier.
This cannot be helped, and so everything
must be done to retard the development.
Although the repotting of the plants does
not interfere with the growth, if done at
the time the bud shows that causes the
first break, it does if carried out when
the tops are pinched off the plants.
Stopping, therefore, should be done
about a week before or a week after
the repotting takes place. Avon.
DENDROMECON
RIGIDUM, A HARDY TREE
BRIGHT YELLOW FLOWERS.
POPPY WITH
in the season's growth. The check caused by
stopping the plants is about one-third more severe,
and on this account I am not an advocate of
stopping at all if there is any sign of a natural
break being caused by the formation of a bud
about the right date for each variety.
A BEAUTIFUL TREE POPPY.
DeNDROMECON RIGIDUM.
The Poppy Order includes many in-
teresting and beautiful garden plants.
The genera Meconopsis and Romneya
provide instances of flowers possessing
rare and refined beauty. Dendromecon
rigidum is another example, and if only
better known it would be far more exten-
sively grown. It is appropriately termed
a Tree Poppy, since the growth is woody
and the blossoms are unmistakably
like those of the Poppy tribe. The flowers are
bright clear yellow, with two caducous sepals,
four petals and numerous stamens ; the leaves
are lance-shaped. When planted in a light,
rich, loamy soil against a sunny wall, it forms a
large bush, and produces its flowers in May and
I will very briefly explain. If a bud shows on ! early June. Like most other members of the
April 15 and it is found that the particular variety i Poppy tribe, this plant is very impatient of root
does best when topped about that date, then the | disturbance, and when once established it ought
This delightful shrub occurs
wild on the summit of the moimtaius near St.
shoots growing after the naturil break will be better j not to be removed.
than those following the stopping or pinching of
the plant on the same date, because the growths
following bud formation are always more likely to
bear flower-buds at the right time in August.
The very latest varieties will rarely show another
bud before the one that appears early in .\ugust ;
Barbara in North America, and it is interesting
to record that between r83i and 1833 a number
of plants were sent home by David Douglas,
at that time plant-collector to the Royal Horti-
cultural Society.
184
THE GARDEN.
[Aprii. II, 1914.
COLOUR
EFFECTS
GARDEN.
IN THE
IN attempting to comply with tlie request by
a correspondent whose note appeared
in a recent issue, on colour effects and
colour arrangements. 1 wish it to be
understood that in no sense do I claim
to be an expert, not even in the sense
that Donald Beaton, in the middle period of last
century, was allowed to be, though he himself
usually attributed his successful efforts in floral
arrangements to the good taste of his mistress.
Lady Middleton. The people who are successful
floral colourists are regarded as the possessors of
a natural instinct for colours. In a sense that is,
no doubt, true, just as there are people who seem
instinctively to mark the points of a sheep or a
cow, or as a scholar takes to mathematics or
languages.
Some of the prettiest floral effects I have ever
seen have been in cottage gardens, and composed
of the cheapest material, the efforts of folk whose
sole education has been picked up by observation
and a few years' experience. But a little plot of
T£RRf\C.E
pleasing arrangements, and also those which, other-
wise good, are spoiled by some insignificant detail,
though no detail is insignificant that spoils a whole.
Still, it is often noticeable that an indifferent
scheme of colouring is rendered so by perhaps
one colour which clashes with or depresses the
tone of all the others ; and, of course, a note made
of that wUl for all time be a warning. It was just
such an inharmonious note in the coloured plate
that appeared in the January 3 issue that
caused me to pen the few lilies which has brought
about the writing of this.
The introduction of white weakened the strength
of the pink and deeper tones, and the deep blue
in the foreground intruded a discordant note
which was harsh to a degree. I do not agree that
blue should not be used with pink, especially if
not a pronounced blue, and, in the scheme in
question, had it been placed in the background it
would not have been displeasing, even'Mf super-
fluous. This, it will be observed, relates as much
to the proper distribution of colours as to their
association, and leads to a brief consideration of
methods of distribution which are popular at the
present time. In the coloured plate of January 3
the distribution is sho-\vn to be in longitudinal lines,
PLAN OF A TERRACE GARDEN ARRANGED FOR COLOUR EFFECT.
garden is manifestly not to be compared with that
containing a series of beds and borders, and no one
would expect a cottager, however successful in
furnishing his own garden, to be able to work out
with any degree of success a colour scheme for a
gentleman's garden. But the point I wish to
emphasise is that no one need despair of success
who with all his mind attempts the higher flights.
There is much diversity apparent even among
those whose colour sense is largely developed.
Some know good colouring, are able to recognise
good points and bad ones, distinguish why they
are good and bad, and detect inconsistencies which
some to whom one would attribute the possession
of equal accomplishments fail to detect, though
they have the feeling that this is right and that
Is wrong. Nor can these make anything of details.
They usually are copyists of what is good in other
people's gardens, and judging from the remarkable
similarity to be found in floral arrangements in par-
ticular localities, it is obvious that they must
form the great majority. Copying, at least to some
extent, is perhaps unavoidable ; but it is more to
be commended in the breach than in the observance.
Much better is it to make abundant notes of
a method which has much to recommend it. The
coup d'ceil is harmonious, whether the component
parts are kept to separate lines or the colours
most nearly approaching each other are mixed
together. It is, moreover, possible to employ
a great number of colours, not merely those from
pink to red, but selected yellows at one side and
blues at the other, without lowering the general
effect in the slightest degree. It must be obvious
how very advantageous this is in gardens of
no great extent where variety has to be con-
sidered. There are many people who esteem a
collection of hardy plants mainly, and in all avail-
able colours, as still the most attractive, and in this
form, as an adjunct, can be studied to the highest
degree and used to the greatest extent. Enough,
however, has perhaps been advanced on mixed
borders in the series published early in the year.
Equally, if not more, important is the treatment
of the strictly geometrical flower garden.
Here, there is always the personal equation
to be considered, and the likes and dislikes of the
individual cannot be disregarded. But where
there is a free, or a comparatively free, hand,
the problem should be considered whether the
most satisfying scheme be that which divides the
colouring into sections with, perhaps, little connec-
tion each with each, or a scheme which subordinates
the whole to a dominant note. The latter, I am
inclined to think, is the more aesthetic. It is not
so much a question of variety, whether of colour
or of form, in this case as its quality as a reasoned
whole. In the plan shown the beds B B
are of ornamental stonework raised 3 feet above
the level of the lawn. These are furnished perma-
nently with rose-coloured Roses, are carpeted
with Nepeta Mussinii, and give the keynote to
the colour scheme. The other beds this season
are to be as follows ; A A — each of 800 square
feet superficial — isolated masses of deep rose
Larkspurs, which attain a height of 6 feet to 7 feet,
the interspaces Verbena venosa, and a broad rim
of dwarf Ageratum round the outer portion. The
eight small beds (C), tall and dwarf Ageratums ; the
H, cream ; the long, narrow beds (D D), inter-
mediate and tall Antirrhinums in light pink to
carmine pink ; E E have a line of Kniphofia
Uvaria along the edge next the wall (I), and the
other portion furnished with intermediate and tall,
but mostly tall, Antirrhinums, of various shades
of yellow, apricot, and a touch of red. F is a
mixed border in which stronger colours will be
admitted. G, on the other side of the cross walk,
will come so far into the scheme, and the chief
plants will be tall dark blue Larkspurs, with
Statice sinuata, mauve, in the interspaces and
dwarf Ageratum, as in A.
While engaged in writing the foregoing, a note
was received from a gardener regarding the plant-
ing of a series of eight beds. The letter raises an
interesting point. He proposes employing Verbena
venosa, with Orange King Antirrhinum or Calceo-
laria amplexicaulis to brighten it. The first of
these two is not suitable ; the other would do
were it the chief, and the Verbena the subsidiary
plant. I myself am furnishing a detached border
with Verbena venosa, a low wall at the back to be
clothed with Nasturtiums of nasturtium colour,
and a line in front of a faint yellow or amber-
coloured Snapdragon. Neither will lower the tone
of the Verbena, but, on the contrary, will enhance
it, and thus the Verbena will never be other than
the chief plant in the scheme. With the Calceo-
laria there would always be a danger of it losing
that position. The same thing happens when
yellow is associated with a true blue, such as
Salvia patens, and I have seen a block of the latter
spoiled owing to the introduction of a few bright
yellow Snapdragons among it. It will be seen that
few of the beds above noted have edgings, and that
these harmonise with the plants in the other beds.
Edgings are by no means essential, and, unless
very carefully selected, they are a source of weak-
ness, if no worse, in a general scheme.
In I9t3, edgings were more freely used than
it is proposed they will be this year. The H
was the same cream shade, but A A were a mass of
Snapdragon Fire King and Calceolaria amplexi-
caulis, dropping in stature to the edge by the
inclusion of Cuphea strigillosa and Chlorophytura
elatum, the dwarf variety with soft yellow variega-
tion do\vn the middle of the leaf. C C were of
pink Snapdragons \vith variegated Ice Plant
edging each ; D D, grey-blue to true lavender ;
E E, deep crimson tall Lobelia intermixed with
common Cornflower, and a narrow edging of
Lobelia Waverley Blue. There was a line at the
furthest edge of the darkest blue Larkspur, but
the plants were destroyed when young by game.
Tyninghame. N.B. R. P. Bbotherston,
April ii, iqi4.]
THE GARDEN.
185
GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.
SEASONABLE WORK AMONG ANNUAL FLOWERS.
THE Easter holidays come at a most
convenient time this year for lovers
of gardening. Among the numerous
operations to be attended to at this
date are sowing of seeds of annuals
and pricking off seedlings, raised
from seeds sown in the autumn and under glass
I. SPRINKLING SEEDS ON FINELY SIFTED SOIL
IN A WELL-PREPARED SEED-BOX.
during February and early March, into boxes or
transplanting outside.
Sowing Seeds Under Glass. — The weather,
whatever it is, will not interfere with the amateur
gardener sowing seeds in shallow boxes, pans
or pots, as this can be done under cover in a shed
or greenhouse. For obvious reasons shallow boxes
and pans are preferable to pots, for though we can
put ample drainage in the bottom of the pots
to compensate for their greater depth, the area
of the surface soil for sowing the seeds is com-
paratively small unless large, clumsy pots are
brought into use. A larger area of soil permits
of thin sowing, which is most essential, for not
only is it a waste of seeds to sow thickly, but
seedlings crowded in a small state are soon ruined.
A very convenient size for the boxes is r4 inches
long, 9 inches wide and 3 inches deep. Old kipper
boxes from the fishmongers are very suitable.
Should one have only a few seeds of a particular
plant, divide a box in half by placing a stick
across the centre, and sow two kinds of seeds in
one box, taking care to choose sorts which will
take about the same time to germinate.
-THE SEEDLINGS SHOULD BE PRICKED OFF
WHEN LARGE ENOUGH TO HANDLE.
A suitable compost to iill the boxes consists of
two parts loamy soil, one part leaf-mould, and one
part coarse sand. Pass this through a quarter-inch
mesh sieve, using the rough stuff remaining in the
sieve to put in the bottom of the boxes for drainage.
If the boxes are filled lightly with soil and the
surface is then pressed down moderately firmly
with a flat board, the soil will be about the right
distance from the top. To obviate the necessity
for watering the seeds as soon as sown, it is better
to water the soil when the boxes are filled, and
leave them to drain a few hours before sowing.
The depth to cover the seeds depends on their
size. The smallest need only have a slight dusting
of fine silver sand. Larger seeds — Asters, for
instance — require a thin covering of very finely
sifted soil. Where to place the boxes after sowing
depends on the convenience of the grower. A
shelf in a cool or cold greenhouse, a hot-bed and
a cold frame are all suitable. Without even these
advantages the beginner need have no qualms ;
cloches, hand-lights, or a sheet of glass placed over
each box is sufficient protection to induce the
seeds to germinate quicker, and affords them more
protection than is possible out-
side. To prevent the surface
soil drying up rapidly, cover
all seeds with paper till ger-
mination commences.
Sowing Seeds Outside.—
Without going to an endless
amount of trouble, as successful
tiansplanting is very difficult,
it is necessary to sow the
following and other seeds out-
side in the positions where the
plants are to flower : Poppy,
Mignonette, Miss Jekyll's Love-
in-a-Mist and Larkspurs. On
the other hand, most hardy
annuals, if the positions in the
beds and borders are occupied
when the time for sowing
seeds arrives, may be sown in
prepared seed-beds outside and
transplanted later into their
permanent positions. ■ Sowing
in temporary positions is more
convenient in straight, shallow
drills, otherwise the sowing
may be broadcast, i.e., thmly
all over the surface, or, as illustrated, in short
lines, which are easier to thin out. Seeds sown
outside require just a little more covering with
fine soil than those sown in boxes.
Pricking Out or Transplanting Seedlings. —
There is work of this kind to do both in boxes imder
glass and outside. .Antirrhinums, Hollyhocks,
Pansies, annual Carnations, Delphiniums, Tobacco
Plants and other seeds sown in heat tmder glass
in February and early March are ready to prick
off. Here, again, the shallow boxes recommended
for seed-sowing can be utilised. Each of these
with the seedlings pricked off as illustrated will
hold from thirty-five to forty small plants. Out-
side in the beds and borders there are the autumn-
sown annuals to thin and transplant. Larkspurs,
Poppies, Pot Marigolds and Collinsias may be
mentioned. The illustration below depicts a group
of such just ready for attention. .\s soon as trans-
planting is done, water the seedlings, unless it is
raining. In thinning do not be too drastic at
first. It is often better to remove half the first
time, and then go over the beds again a fortnight
later. o. .A.
DIVIDING PERENNIAL PHLOXES.
Where it is intended to divide these Phloxes or
make a new plantation, this is perhaps the best time
of the year for that work. One hears numerous com-
plaints about Phloxes not doing well, or that thev
cannot be grown in this place or that. Perhaps in
the majority of cases it is not so much the climate
that is at fault as the position they occupy in the
garden. If they are planted in a border where
they will be partially shaded from the fierce rays
of the sun and given copious supplies of water
during the summer, there need be no fear of failure.
Early in April give a good mulching of farm-
yard manure, and let it remain on the surface
all the season. Where extra fine spikes are re-
quired, the shoots may be reduced to three or four
3. ANNUAL LARKSPURS SOWN IN ROWS IN AN OUTDOOR BORDER.
THE SEEDLINGS ARE NOW READY FOR THINNING.
on a plant, but for ordinary decorative purposes
this will not be necessary. Cuttings taken off now
and rooted in a cold frame will provide a nice
show of bloom in the late autumn.
THE HERBACEOUS BORDER.
Where planting was not done in the autuum, this
work may now be accomplished ; indeed, for the more
delicate sorts spring planting is preferred. Many of
the stronger-growing subjects, such as Senecio,
Helianthus and Rudbeckia, will require to be re-
duced, leaving strong growths from the outside of
the group. The border should now be top-dressed
with some good turf, manure from spent Mushroom-
beds, and a good sprinkling of bone-meal. The
utmost care must be exercised in pointing it over,
more particularly where bulbs are grown.
186
THE GARDEN.
[April ii. 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
Strawberries in Pots. — Tlie ripening of these
fruits has been delayed by sunless weather in
March, but with lengthening days there should be no
difficulty now in keeping up a'daily supply. Keep
the plants well exposed to the light and examine
the pots several times daUy. Give frequent
supplies of liquid manure, for it is now almost
impossible to give them too much water, especially
if the pots are fully exposed to the light and air.
Early Peach-House. — The fruits in this house
will now have finished stoning and commenced
their second swelling. At this stage the night
temperature may be raised to 65° without danger,
rising to 75° by day with sun-heat. Syringe
the foliage twice daily, and shut the ventilators
early in the afternoon to secure all possible benefit
from sun-heat. If the borders are properly
drained, liberal supplies of water should be given,
and a dusting of artificial manure may be applied
with advantage at alternate waterings.
Vines. — In midseason vineries disbudding will
now require careful attention, and should be
accomplished whUe the shoots are in a young
state, selecting those with the most promising
bunch, at the same time having due regard to
the length of the spurs. Admit air with caution,
and shut the ventilators as early in the afternoon
as is consistent with safety. As time advances and
the Vines are growing freely, the shoots should
be carefully stopped at the first or second eye
beyond the bunch, according to the space avail-
able, and this should be done at intervals so that
no serious check may take place.
Plants Under Glass.
Fuchsias. — Old plants of Fuchsias which
have been dormant through the winter and are
now making fresh growth should be pruned and
repotted. It is necessary to remove as much of
the old soil from the roots as possible, in order
to avoid the use of larger pots at the commence-
ment of the season. Young plants which were
struck in the autumn or spring should be grown
in a temperature of 60° with plenty of atmospheric
moisture.
Chrysanthemums. — All late-struck plants should
be potted into 6-inch pots as soon as possible.
The compost should be moderately dry, so that
it may be pressed tightly round the roots. The
plants may afterwards be placed in a cold pit
and kept close for a few days. Plants which were
potted early must be freely ventilated, in order
to keep them stocky. Keep a sharp look-out
for fly, which must be destroyed at once if present
on the plants. Cuttings may still be struck in a
close, cool pit, and will make useful decorative
plants for November and December ; 6-inch pots
are the most suitable for this purpose.
Celosia plumosa. — Seeds may now be sown in
heat to provide a succession to those sown early
in the year. The present sowing should produce
well-developed plants for the conservatory during
July and August. The early batch of plants
may still be grown in a temperature of 60°.
The Flower Garden.
Sweet Peas. — Plants raised in pots will now
be ready for planting in their flowering quarters.
The ground is very cold and wet at present, but
with lengthening days we may hope for better
conditions shortly. The ground should be well
forked over and a good sprinkling of fine bone-
meal applied before the plants are put out. Great
care should be taken that the roots are not injured
when being transferred from the pots to the bed
of soil. Allow ample space between the plants,
as nothing will be gained by crowding, and, as soon
as the planting is over, the sticks should be care-
fully placed in position, A sowing may now be
made in the open to produce fresh flowers through-
out the late summer and autumn.
Summer-Bedding Plants. — As soon as these
are of sufficient size, they should be removed to
cooler quarters. Lobelia and various dwarf
subjects will benefit by being transplanted from
the cutting-boxes into shallow frames; 4 inches of
fine soil will be sufficient, and the plants should be
placed as near the glass as possible. When
they have made good growth and are of suitable
size, the lights may be removed during the day
in order to harden them off.
Hollies. — The present is the best time to
transplant Hollies. If dry weather prevails,
the plants should be syringed several times daily
and a good mulching provided. Protection from
wind should be given, especially for specimen
plants.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Apricots. — These trees will soon require dis-
budding, as this should be commenced as soon
as the shoots are large enough to hold between
the finger and thumb. Commence by removing
the back and fore right shoots, then those which
are badly placed ; but do not remove too many at
one time, as this mav cause a check and numbers
of the fruits will drop. If disbudding is carefully
performed, it will reduce the need for hard pruning
in the winter. Retam as many well-placed
shoots near the base of the tree as possible, but
avoid overcrowding. Very little thinning of the
fruit should be practised until the stoning period
is over, unless in cases where a heavy crop has set.
The Kitchen Garden.
Vegetable Marrows. — Seeds may now be sown
in small pots and grown in a slightly heated pit.
As soon as they have developed their first rough
leaf, they may be potted into 6-inch pots and
grown under glass until the time for planting
arrives.
Salsify. — This vegetable may be sown about
the middle of April in drills 18 inches apart, and
thinned to 9 inches between the plants as soon
as large enough to handle. Scorzonera may be
sown now and treated in the same way.
Asparagus-Beds should be examined, and if
the surface has been beaten down by heavy rain,
the soil should be very lightly pricked up and a
good dressing of agriciiltural salt applied. There
should be no delay in sowing Asparagus seed,
and the seedlings should be ready for planting
in two years' time. Sow in shallow drills 18 inches
apart, and thin the seedlings to 6 inches as soon
as large enough to handle.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunk.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Onions that were raised in boxes may now be
planted out ; at least, any time from now till the
end of the month. Of late years many private
growers prefer sowing the bulk of their Onions
in boxes in preference to sowing out of doors,
and there is a good deal to be said for this practice
where large bulbs are desired. It is generally
admitted that transplanted Onions do not suffer
so much from the ravages of the maggot as those
sown outside. At the same time, where one has
to have a supply of small Onions, it is necessary to
sow in this way.
Lettuces. — ^Those that were sown under glass
and transplanted into boxes may now be safely
planted out on some warm border. It should be
remembered that Lettuces require a good, rich
soil to produce nice, crisp heads, so that if the
ground has not received a liberal dressing of
manure earlier in the season, a little short stable
litter should be forked in before planting.
Broccoli. — Winter and spring Broccoli should
now be sown, although many recommend sowing
up till May. In our climate, however, I do not
think this is advisable, as we generally find that the
April sowing gives the best results. Prick out
the seedlings in a prepared bed when large
enough to handle, in a similar way to Cabbage,
with this difference — that they should have more
room between the plants. If one has not sturdy
little plants to begin with, they will be sure
to suffer during very severe weather.
Egg Plants. — Although not grown extensively
for cooking purposes hitherto, I am told these
make quite a delicious vegetable. As they arc
rather tender subjects, the seed should be sown
in small pots indoors and the seedlings thinned
out ; indeed, they may be treated in the same way as
Tomatoes. As, however, they are subject to attacks
from red spider, see that thev are not placed near
Vines or Peaches, otherwise they may cause a
good deal of trouble.
Small Salads. — ■To provide a regular supply
of these salads, a start should now be made with
a small sowing outside. As the majority of these
are surface-rooting plants, care must be taken
to keep them well supplied with moisture at the
roots.
The Flower Garden.
Linum Provinciale. — This !o%'ely Flax is m habit
quite distinct from any of the other varieties of
these fine perennials. The stems are quite erect,
and taller than L. Lewisii, which is inclined to
droop. Curiously enough, however, I cannot
find it in any of the hardy plant lists 1 have
by me. With us it is certainly the most out-
standing plant of its colour (pale blue) in our
herbaceous collection. Anyone who should happen
to come across it would do well to add it to their
collection. It has also the additional merit of
blooming almost throughout the season.
Repairing Paths. — Where this was not done
earlier, no time should be lost in seeing to this
very necessary work. During March the rainfall
in some districts was abnormal, so that the drains
and traps were severely tested in consequence.
Where gravel is used on the paths, it %vould be
advisable to have it passed through a riddle.
This will rid it of soil, and assist in destroying
weeds and moss. Some will say this is a big
task. So it is, but it will pay if one can find time
for it. The work, of course, must be done in fine
weather.
Stocks and Asters. — The earliest of these
will now be ready for pricking off, at least when
they attain the third leaf. As soon as they obtam
a hold of the soil, remove them to some cool and
airy house, as they will not do well in a close
atmosphere. There is, however, still time to make
a sowing; and should one be favoured with a good
autumn, it is just possible this late sowing will
produce the finest plants.
Plants Under Glass.
Herbaceous Calceolarias. — .\s these useful
and attractive greenhouse plants become well
rooted in their flowering pots, artificial feeding
should commence. Calceolarias do not seem to
care much for chemicals ; indeed, for the most
part I would advise using liquid from the byre
or stable, which will be found to be as good as
any. In addition put a small bag of soot in the
water tank ; this will be found to be a grand
fertiliser. As soon as the flower-spikes appear,
they should be staked with neat little sticks,
which, if skilfully done, will scarcely be visible.
When the flowers begin to open, the house must
be shaded on bright days, otherwise the plants are
inclined to flag. Artificial feeding should be
discontinued when they come into bloom.
Pruning the Myrtle. — Only in very favoured
districts in the North can one risk growing this
plant out of doors. In the conservatory it is
inclined to get somewhat out of hand, and the
present time will be suitable to prune back
straggling shoots. An opportunity should be
taken to give it a thorough cleansing ; this is best
done with a garden engine when the young growths
are about three inches or four inches long. A
few cuttings might be inserted in pots, and when
rooted I find they make useful plants for furnishing
the greenhouse.
Hippeastrums (Amaryllis). — No time should
be lost in getting the main batch into heat. If
it should be necessary to repot any of the larger
bulbs, do so now, using some good loam and
charcoal. In most cases, however, top-dressing
will be all that is necessary. Plunge them in
Cocoanut fibre, and water very sparingly until
the flower-spikes appear.
Fruits Under Glass.
Mealy Bug on Vines. — Although the resting
period is the proper time to rid the Vines of this
dreadful pest, it is surprising how the insects
persist in making their appearance even after we
had thought we had got rid of them. Still, we must
exercise patience and keep working away, and much
can be done even now by going over the Vines
from time to time with a small camel-hair brush
dipped in methylated spirit and just touching
the insects, which will at once destroy them.
John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopelouii Gardens, Snidli Qiiniisfc'iry, N.H:
April ii, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
187
BLUE AND RED HYACINTHS.
SOME INTERESTING FACTS.
THROUGH the kindness of Messrs. M.
van Waveren and Sons of Hillegom
I have enjoyed in my greenhouse last
month and this a very considerable
collection of single Hyacinths of
various shades of blue, pink and red.
A bulb of each variety was put into three different
sized pots ; otherwise in every other detail
all were treated exactly alike. They were
potted on the same day, placed in the same
position to root, and brought at the same time
into the greenhouse.
The Best Sized Pots. — My experience, which
may be of interest and of some utility to others,
is as follows. First, I was rather surprised to
find how little difference the size of the pots made.
Four-inch or 6-inch brought almost equally good
spikes, and even in some extra deep ones, where
there was considerably more root room, the
difference was but slight. On the whole, I would
advise 5-inch pots as being the best and most
convenient for first-sized single bulbs. Four-
inch pots are quite large enough for second-sized
ones.
The Strongest Growers. — Secondly, although
according to St. Simon, who published a famous
monograph on the Hyacinth in r668, red was
probably the original colour of the flower, I
can only say that I liked the red shades the least
of all I grew, and that I found them to be decidedly
the poorest doers. The strongest and the most
pleasing were the pale blues and the pinks. These
were without the smallest doubt by far the most
popular among the visitors who saw the collection.
Pale or light blue varieties have always, I fancy,
been favourites, ever since, as I might say, there
were Hyacinths. In 1703, in the " Dutch
Gardiner " we find only blue ones mentioned (sic) :
" The Hyacinth, that is handsom must have a
clear Porcelin or China Blew, or near a white
Colour, great Nails standing round the stalk in a
Pyramidal fashion, but running up more Taper-
wise." Other shades and colours were in existence,
but they were esteemed less choice. At the time
of the Hyacinth mania (1733-34), according
to a contemporary list of prices, whites must have
been quite as popular and as much thought of
as pale blues, although the one of highest value
was a blue Non Plus Ultra, one bulb of which,
with its natural offsets, changed hands at 1,600
guelders (about one hundred and thirty-three
pounds). In the Hyacinth catalogue given by
St. Simon (r668) blues predominate, both as doubles
and singles. Whites come next, then red and rose,
and then, a long way off them in numbers, come
five single yellows. Hence this date must mark
the first beginnings of this colour in the Hyacinth.
But all this is of academic interest only. Nice
as it is to know just a wee bit of a flower's history,
a matter-of-fact public will be thinking, as their
eyes run over these lines, of their next bulb order,
and they will be wondering what, after all this
superfluous steam, I am going to advise them to
buy. So no more dipping into the past. Anon
to the present.
The Blue Varieties. — Taking the blues first,
and according my own special favourites the
premier position, I would bracket together for
the pale blues, Perle Brilliant, short, loose spike
with beautiful large bells, with light blue exteriors
and pale mauve insides ; Grand Maltre, tall
spike, of Dutch china blue ; Competitor, late
flowering, wide segments, a paler shade of the last ;
and Potgetier, a lovely pale silvery blue, drooping
bells, the whole spike reminding me of a Spruce
with snow on its branches. For the dark blues
I must put Menelik, very dark, compact spike,
each petal has an almost black stripe down its
centre and is edged with very rich deep purple ;
and William III., loose spike, dark blue bells, as
equal first. Both are excellent and of quite a
different style and shade of colour. The former
has a very glossy appearance, while the latter
is distinguished by its light-looking spike and
whitish eye.
In the Pinks two beauties are Lady Derby,
superb shade of soft pink, with a slightly deeper
line in the centre of each segment, late flowering,
medium.sized spike ; and General de Wet, a paler
pink, long spike, bells not too crowded, each
segment curls back, good doer. Then for a third
I must go to Ornament Rose, very pale, waxy-
looking bells, compact spike ; or to Rose k
Merveille, if a still paler shade is desired. This
latter I would describe as a cream almost more
than a pink, it is so pale. Four Hyacinths of
deeper colouring that always seemed to catch
my eye were Lord Macaulay, bright rose with
paler centre, rather crowded spike, not over long ;
Queen Wilhelmina, one of my favourite loose
spikes, pretty rose pink, curious hook on tip of each
petal ; Solfatare, cherry colour with whitish eye,
spike short, flowers look rather as if they were
on stilts — still, with all defects, a most pleasing
shade ; and King of the Scarlets, most distinct,
back of petals vermilion, face rich bright crimson,
tips of petals inclined to be green. I have forgotten
Garibaldi, for it was long past its best when these
notes were taken. On no account must I omit
it, for it is a grand extra early of great lasting
quality, and, as the lists say, of a glowing
carmine.
So ends my selection. I know the varieties are
not the ones that everyone would choose. I
seem to be attracted to the mid-blues like Grand
Maitre, Count Andrassy, Competitor and the like,
more than to the pale mauves like Czar Peter and
Johan. When I go to the pales I like the blue
tint in Potgetier, while the long spike of Electra
is charming. In pinks my taste seems more
normal, and perhaps most of those who have
seen my flowers have chosen as I have done.
Jacques, with its immense Sprucey-looking spike,
is excellent. Of the varieties with pronounced
stripes, which somehow always remind me of the
Paradise sweets of my childhood, I think Queen
Maria Sophia, a very early bloomer, and Fabiola,
which is decidedly on the late side, the most
pleasing. Joseph Jacob.
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
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relating to matters upon which they wish expert advice.
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reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
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The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
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be recognised as acceptance.
Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C.
ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor intends to
make The Garden helpful to all readers vjho desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for namiiig should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, ivhere possible, should be sent It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher.
FLOWER GARDEN.
PROTECTING SAXIFRAGA BURSERIANA {M. J.).~
The plant itself is (juite hardy, and would require uo
protection from that point of view. If, however, you
wish to preserve its beauty at flowering-time, then a sheet of
glass for protection would be best, raising it a few inches
above the tuft. The glasts should be large enough to
cover the entire plant and to prevent the rain dri\ing under
to destroy the etfect. A miilcliing of granite chips about
the plant would also assist to tlie same end.
GROUPING LILIUM CANDIDUM AND ANCHUSA
(M. M. K. C.).— Such a grouping by way of contrast
would look very well, provided both could be had in flower
together. If you are only now planting the Anchusa,
it is hardly likely that a satisfactory flowering will follow
this year, and both plants are better when established.
If you employ the Delphinium and white Lupine in
addition to the above, tne former would have to figure
as a front-row plant by reason of its dwarfness. If an
edging is desirable, you could not have anything better
than the white Pink Mrs. Sinkins, which would be in
keeping with the scheme you liave already in view.
ALPINES FROM SEEDS {E. fl".).— Very few of those
you name come absolutely true wlien raised from seeds.
Aster alpinus, Aubrietias, l)ianthus, Gentian, Saponaria
and others all vary slightly. Happily for the gardener,
for progress and for evolution that it is so. Some plants —
the first two named arc generally good instances — give a
great variety of colours when raised from seeds. Some
are the veriest weeds, others the finest geais, and the
gardener, by discarding the former and propagating thr
latter, is left with vastly improved strains of each. Plants
difficult to improve by cross-breeding are frequently
endowed with the inherent attribute of great variability
when raised from seeds, an(^ in that way provide a wide
range of colour.
TO GROW MOSS BETWEEN PAVEMENT STONES
{Artist). — The best way to establish moss between pave-
ment stones is to thoroughly soak the stones and interstices
with water ; then introduce patches of mass. Keep
the moss damped over regularly for a period of several
weeks, and in the event of hot, dry weather occurring,
shade it lightly and damp the shading material several
times a day. These patches mil fruit later in the year,
and the moss will gradually spread over the desired area.
It is not possible to purchase spores to sow. There is
no special chemical condition of the soil necessary for
the establishment of moss, but it must be permanently
moist — that is why moss increases so rapidly during the
autumn and early winter.
PENTSTEMON AND ROSE (JSur(aft).— Generally speak-
ing, the hybrid Pent^trnmns, to which no doubt you are
referring, flower more abundantly, though naturally
somewhat later, on the cut-back plants. Those left alone
flower earlier, but the spikes — and the flowers, usually —
are less flue. This state of things is, however, modified
by weather conditions, and the plants rarely behave
exactly alike in two successive seasons. \Mien cut back, it
should be to \\1thin 2 inches of the ground, the operation
taking place early in March. If the shoot of tlie Rose
is well matured, it may be pruned back to 18 inches from
the ground-level, or to any prominent eye or bud at
about that point. Should the growth referred to be late
made and sappy, good eyes or buds would be scarce
at the height mentioned, and such pruning to a foot from
the ground would only result in sappy g^o^^'th again.
On the other hand, a well-ripened shoot might be shortened
to half its length, and, pegged near the ground, would give
a moderately good fiower from every prominent eye on
the stem.
PLANTING ALPINES {K. E., Cheshire).— Dunng
the early spring months quite a large number of alpines
may be di^^ded and replanted with hope of success.
Generally speaking, early April is a good time for the
operation, while established examples may be planted from
March to May inclusive. All seedling alpines should
be transplanted or transferred to more permanent positions
in the spring, the object being to afford the young plants
a full season's growth ahead in which to make good
specimens. The Dryas and Soldanella could be transplanted
at any time ; the Anemone seedlings at any moment
188
THE GARDEN.
[April ii, 1914.
Wiicu they are on the move. Many alpines are easily
raised from seeds, and if you have the necessary patience
and convenience for dealinji mth such thinss, it would
pay you a lumdredfold. If you do not possess these
essentials, you should buy plants. Seed should first be
sown in boxes, pots or pans, and the seedlings pricked
off before giving them their permanent positions. Some
mav be so^\ti in'frara'^s, others in drills in the open. The
address of .Mrs. I.Ioyd Edwards is Bryn Oerog, near
Llangollen, North Wales.
TRANSPLANTING GODETIAS (Mrs. Walton). —These
do not transplant well, particularly when they have
attained to any size. Far better results are obtained
when the seeds are sown where required and early thinning
resorted to. Both these and Clarkias may be transplanted
in their earliest stacies if the work is carefully done and
the plants watered^ intelligently. If you desire a good
display, it would be better to transplant them into pots
when "quite voung. and from these to the flower-beds
where required. The skms might be disposed of by a
dressing of some soil fumigant when the ground is \'acant.
STONE DAMAGED BY FROST (E. F. 0.)— "We fear
from vour description that an unsuitable stone has been
emplo'ved. Most types of stone harden by exposure,
while 'certain others, no matter how placed, yield to
the influences of weather and climate. If we are correct
ID our surmise, disiutegration will continue, particularly
in times of frost. A little of this is often advantageous,
i.e., svmpathetic to vegetable life ; but if disintegration
is coiitinuallv going on, or present in large degree, we
can only conclude, in the absence of fuller particulars
or an examination on the spot, that the stone is itself
of too soft a natiu'c. Wc know of no chemical that will
harden it.
TREES AND SHRUBS.
CREEPING ARBUTUS {V. P. F.).— By Creeping Arbutus
we presume that Arctostaphylos Uva-ursi is meant, or,
perhaps, A. alpina. The former is the better trailer and
has been called Arbutus. The most likely firm to apply
to for plants is Messrs. James Smith and Sons, Darley Dale,
near Matlock. If they do not stock the plant, it is likely
that they could procure it.
HEATHER FOR EXAMINATION (FT. £.).— There
was uothing about tlu^ specimen of Heather sent for
examination to enable us to determine the cause of death.
It may be that some fungous disease has attacked the roots ;
or a root-eating grub, such as the larva of the cockchafer,
may have been at work, but there was nothing to betoken
the presence of either. Examine the ground and surround-
ing plants carefully for grubs or fung\is mycelium.
TO PRUNE A BAY TREE {Eglinto?}). —The Bay tree
may he pruned hard back about the middle of April.
If the plant is iu a tub and you can arrange to place it
in a greenhouse mth a close and moist atmosphere for a few
weeks, keeping it well syringed two or three times a day,
shoots will appear more freely than if the plant is left
out of doors. If it is planted out, however, and the
weatlier is dry, the production of new growth may be
assisted by syringing two or three times a day.
TO PROPAGATE ERICA CARNEA (G. K. il/.).— This
Erica may be increased by any one of three methods —
by seeds, by layers, or bj* cuttings. Seeds should be
gathered when ripe and sown on the surface of pans or
boxes made up of sandy peat. Drain the pans or boxes
well, then make up to within an inch of the top with coarse
compost, over this place half an inch of finely sifted compost
pressed level and moderately firm. Sow the seeds thinly
over the surface, water by soaking, and put in a shady
place in a moist greenliouse. Cover with a sheet of glass
and afterwards with paper. The seedlings will appear
in about a fortnight. As they grow, gradually remove
the glass, and when large enough to handle prick the
seedlings off in a prepared bed of sandy peat in a cold
frame. Layers may be put down at any time during spring
or early summer. Place sandy peat beneath the branches,
and weight the branches down by means of stones. They
must be left for two years before being taken off as separate
plants. Cuttings of young shoots may be made from
1 inch to lA inches in length during July and August,
and be inserted in pots containing a compost of two parts
peat and one part sand, made very firm. The pots
must be placed under bell-glasses in a shaded and close
frame. Cuttings of the same kind may also be rooted
in sandy peat if placed under a handlight in a shady place
out of doors. Plants raised from cuttings are usually
the most satisfactory of all, but as the cuttings are so smail
they need very careful handling and must be inserted with
great care. They root in from four to six weeks.
THE GREENHOUSE.
INJURY TO ASPIDISTRA (Homo). — It is Im-
possible to say what has been damaging your Aspidistra
from the specimens sent. It may be slugs, which hide
in the soil during the day ; but can it be through the
scratching of cats ?
PELARGONIUMS NOT DOING WELL (Moon).— The
appearance of the foliage of the Pelargonium suggests
that It has been growing under unfavourable conditions
of moisture and temperature. There may also have
been an attack of aphides, but the main damage Is the
result of too moist an atmosphere.
PHYLLOCACTUS NOT DOING WELL (./. W. M.).—
These farther specimens enable us to say there is a fungus
allied to the " damping olf " fungus growing In the brovvn
part at the base of the stem, though the upper parts are
free. No doubt the conditions have been too moist and
close for It, and we recommend you to bake the soil before
you plant healthy cuttings In it. and take care that the
drainage is ample and overwatering is strenuously avoided.
FEATHERY CHRYSANTHEMUMS (S. Z.).— The plants
make breaks and show crown-buds in just the same way
as other sections; but both the varieties — namely,
Jitsujetul and Mrs. W. Butters — do best when left to
make natural breaks, and then produce natural shoots.
If disbudded at the end of August, the resultant blooms
will possess many petals, but short. Do not, therefore,
disbud, bxit let the plants flower naturally ; then the
sprays will be fluffy and attractive.
GRUBS ON ADIANTUMS (N. £.).— The grubs are the
larv* of a weevil about three-eighths of an Inch long and
much the colour of the soil. They do great damage to
roots of various greenhouse plants, and, when they mature,
the beetles feed upon the foliage of Ferns and the like,
and on shoots of Vine and even on foliage of fruit trees.
They are troublesome pests to deal with, but as you are
repotting the Ferns It would be best to pick all the larvce
out which are to be found In the pots. Tliey may be killed
by pouring a teaspoonful of carbon bisulphide into a hole
niade in the soil with a piece of stick, closing It again
immediately. The weevils hatch in April or May, and
when they are about, if the pots are shaken after dark
(when the beetles feed) over a piece of paper or cloth,
many may be captured and killed by dropping them in
hot water or paraffin.
ABOUT CHRYSANTHEMUMS (J. GX — Tobacco
water may be used on the foliage as a preventive of the
leaf-mining maggot. A tablespoonful to three quarts
of water would be a strong enough dose. Quassia extract,
used according to the directions given with it, would be
better, and petroleum emulsion, violently stirred in water,
is also good. A wlneglassful to a gallon of water will do.
If these mixtures — the last two referred to — are syringed
on the leaves once a fortnight, they will prevent the
fly laying eggs in the leaves. If the shoots of the plants
are stopped, 2 inches being pinched off the end, the flower-
ing of the plants will be delayed a fortnight or so, but the
quality of the blooms will not be as good as those on plants
not as severely stopped. The best way is to retard the
plants and the development of the buds in the autumn.
No ; it would not be advisable to saturate the potting
compost with liquid manure before use. Please send some
Sweet Pfa plants for inspection.
TREATMENT OF BORONIA MEGASTIGMA (J. 31. B.).
— When the plant has done flowering it should be cut
back Into a neat, compact shape. Then, if kept in the
greenhouse, young shoots would soon be pushed out,
and as soon as these are about half an Inch In length the
plant must be repotted. For this purpose the pot should
be a size larger than the old one, quite clean and effectually
drained. A suitable potting compost is good fibrous peat
and sand. This must be pressed down very firmly,
and care taken not to bury the ball of soil deeper than
it was before. Seeds are occasionally to be obtained,
and when this is the case, they afford a ready means of
Increase. At the same time, seedlings do not fiower lu a
small state in the same profusion as plants raised from
cuttings ; hence this latter method Is usually employed
for their propagation. Cuttings arc not at all easy to
strike, the most successful method being to dibble them
into well-drained pots filled with fine peat and sand,
pressed do\\Ti firmly, and covered \vith a bell-glass till
rooted.
VARIOUS QUESTIONS (G. A. 17.).— From what you
say about your Hose Mar6chal Nlel we imagine that the
soil in the bed has become sour. Possibly the bed Is not
well drained. It may be, however, that Improper ventila-
tion, , resulting In mildew, is the cause. Should there
appear to be signs of mildew, spray the leaves with Bordeaux
mixture, which may be procured from a chemist. If the
leaves contmue to fall, remake the bed, taking care to
drain it well at the time. The manure you propose
using is quite suitable for a healthy plant, but If the soil
Is to blame, it \vill not assist your Kose. Perhaps a local
expert could be mduced to call and examine the condition
of your bed. You may repot your Deutzia at once, using
a compost of four parts good loam to one part each of
leaf-mould, well-rotted manure and sand. After flowering,
the old flowering shoots should be cut awav. Your Ivy-
leaved Geraniums may be expected to break again quite
vigorously from the old wood. Cut the dead ends of the
shoots away at once, then keep the plants syringed twice
a day until new shoots appear. Your plant of Plumbago
capcnsis may be repotted at once, using a compost of
two parts fibrous loam to one part of leaf-mould or peat,
wth a little well-rotted manure and sand. If it has not
been pruned, prune the branches back at once. Those
formed last year may be removed to within a few buds
of the base. It Is impossible to say what the worms were
which you discovered in your soil, neither can we say
whether they are likely to be detrimental to plant growth
or not. You cannot do better than cut your Oleander
well back at once, then keep the branches well syringed
until new shoots are formed. You may then repot it
in soil similar to that recommended for tlie Deutzia.
ROSES INJURED BY PESTS (MUs i).).— From your
description it looks as tliougli the damage was caused
by the leaf-cutter bee, or mason bee as it is called. Thi>
pest generally nests in hard gravel walks or in holes in
old walls, and may be seen hovering over the Koses on a
sunny morning. The only remedy Is to watch for it and
trace It to its nest, which, of course, should be destroyed.
Or it may be the Bose slugworm caused the damage by
eating the surface of the foliage, which, in time, would
cause the holes. For this, spray the bushes with nlcotlnr
wash or Hellebore wash. You could spray now and con-
tinue at frequent intervals through the early sumni'T.
FRUIT GARDEN.
INJURY TO PLUMS ( Reig ate). —Yom Plums have
no doubt been attacked by the leaf-curling aphis. These
pests hatch out about the last week in March, and sprajing
should be done as soon as they can be disco\erfd on thr
opening buds, using either one of the nicotine sprays
or Quassia and soft soap.
FRUIT TREES ATTACKED BY SCAB yBrockley).—
Your trees are attacked neither by mildew nor by canker,
but by scab. The best thing you can do with them is
to remove ail the dead or dying wood, spurs and the like,
and to spray the trees with Bordeaux mixture at half the
strength used for spraying Potatoes, beginning just as
the buds are ready to burst (but before they open),
and repeating at intervals of about three weeks. Take
care that the spraying is done when bright sun is not shining
upon them. From what you say, we think your Apple
Cox's Orange must be planted in a draughty place.
ROSE GARDEN.
ROSES BY POST TO AMERICA {U. S. ^.).— There
is considerable difficulty in sending Roses to America,
as one must obtain a permit from the Agricultural Depart-
ment at Washington. You might apply to the Board
of Agriculture, 4, Whitehall Place, London, W., or
ask your nurseryman to get one througli for you. Or,
if you care to do so, Avrlte to some American flrm of Koso-
growers and ask them to post a plant on to your friend.
Doubtless Messrs. H. Dreer and Co. of Philadelphia,
Massachusetts, would do this for you.
KITCHEN GARDEN.
CHINESE ARTICHOKES (Valetta).— To grow these suc-
cessfully the tubers should be planted at once, 3 Inches
deep, 6 Inches apart and 12 Inches from row to row. Choose
a south or west aspect. These revel in a light sandy soil,
to which plenty of well-decayed leaf-mould should be
added. About twelve tubers usually make one good dish.
BROCCOLI DAMAGED BY A FUNGUS {Me of Wight).—
The spots on the leaves of the Broccoli are due to a fungus
which attacks almost all varieties of the Cabbage tribe,
and might be kept In check by spraying with a solution
of an ounce of potassium sulphide in three gallons of
water when the disease first makes its appearance. It
seems too late to do anv good now,
FRENCH BEANS {Valetta). — Unless proper methods
are adopted, the crop would not be very satisfactory
at this season of the year. A greenhouse temperature
would hardly suit them, as these ^nll require at least
55" to 65" of heat, varying with the outside temperature.
The cause of your foliage looking yellow in all probability
would Ije too low a temperature, and most likely the plants
too wet at the root ; leaf -soil would not be the cause. The
pots should be well drained and a light, moderate compost
used. The presence of red spider is due to the atmospheric
conditions of the house being too dry. This pest cannot
thrive in a moist temperature.
MISCELLANEOUS.
POTASH FOR TOMATOES (IF. P.).— Potash may be
applied to Tomatoes in the form of sulphate of potash,
either by mixing with the soil or by dissolving In water
at the rate of half an ounce to the gallon, and watering
with It occasionally.
CREOSOTING A FENCE (E. P.).— Y'our neighbour
has full right to creosote not only his own side of the
fence In question, but your side as well ; but he has no
right to go upon your land to do so. In other words,
If you object to your neighbour going upon your garden
for the purpose of crcosoting the fence, you must hand
over the fence In order to creosote your side, as other-
wise he would commit a trespass. Your neighbour
woiUd be quite justified In compelling you to remove
the posts supporting the wires If same are attached to
the fence. Small quantities of creosote touching the
bark of a dormant tree would not be likely to do a great
deal of harm to it, though it would be deadly to foliage.
The dang;er lies maiiUy m the fumes affecting tender
shoots, as they would be likely to do, and in the possibility
of some of the creosote washing down to and affecting
the roots. The latter is probably less likely than the
former, but fumes would continue to be given off for some
time in warm weather. There would be much less danger
if the work were done in November than If it were done
now.
THE VALUE OF SOOT (Toajic).— Perhaps the follo\nng
Information may be of value to you \\ith regard to soot.
Its chief manurial value lies in the nitrogen it contains.
Soots from short chimneys arc usually much richer in
nitrogen than from tall ones ^\^th a very strong draught.
Those from the latter are usually very poor in nitrogeo,
and contain a considerable amount of ash. Soot is best
valued by the amount of nitrogen it contains, and its
value varies from about twenty-four shillings to five pounds
a ton — the hghter samples being the better. A good soot
should give four bushels to tlio hundredweight and be
worth about sixpence a bushel. There is practically no
other manurial substance of value In the soot, but it has
somewhat greater value in the garden than these figures
show. It helps to darken soil, which renders it more
absorbent of heat, and its carbon, no doubt, aids In remov-
ing toxic substances, just as charcoal does. We regret
we cannot carry out analyses for our correspondents.
Fellows of the Royal Horticultural Society may get them
done at a reduced fee bv Dr. A. .T. Voelcker of 1, Tudor
Street, E.C.
I
^^^jU^t.
GARDEN.
-^=^*|«K^=^=^
No. 2213.— Vol. LXXVIII.
April 18, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Early Strawberries. — Anyuue liaving a number
of plants not required for forcing can have an
early supply of fruit outside by planting these in a
trench such as one would plant Celery in. The
trench should be 4 feet wide by i foot deep. In
this plant three rows of Strawberries, and when
they commence to grow, a few old lights may be
placed over them, which will provide the necessary
protection. Many fine dishes of excellent fruit we
liave seen gathered from plants treated in this way.
A Fine Strain of Olivia miniata.— There
are at Kew flowering now in the Temperate House
and House No. 4 some magnificent varieties
of Clivia miniata. The flowers are remarkable
for their size, some of the
individual flowers being over
(ciur inches across, while there
are as many as twenty blooms
on a single truss or inflorescence.
The flowers have broad, over-
lapping segments of bright
orange hue, paling off to yellow
at the base. Some of the
flowers in shape and in the
curvature of the anthers re-
semble those of the Amaryllis.
The Hoop-Petticoat Daffodil.
Some of the diminutive Nar-
<'issi are really lovely in the
rock garden, but it is 'doubtful
if any of them are so beauti-
fully adapted for associating
with choice alpines as the Hoop-
Petticoat Daflodil, botanically
known as Narcissus Bulbo-
codium. The flowers of the
species are bright yellow, but
the variety citrinus, native of
the Pyrenees, has sulphur-
coloured flowers, which are even
more pleasing. The bulbs
should be allowed to establish
themselves in a light soil and
sunny position on the rock garden, as they do
not, as a rule, all bloom the first year after
planting.
Green Fly on Roses. — Complaints have reached
us from several districts about aphides attacking
the young shoots of Roses. On making investi-
gations we find the trouble is a serious one, in
some instances nearly all the young shoots being
badly infested. Of course, the majority of these
would be removed at pruning-time, and, let us
hope, consigned to the flames. We draw attention
to the pest now to put readers on their guard.
Steps should be taken at once to spray all bushes
wherever there is a possibility of insects being
present, but the insecticide should be used weaker 6-inch pots. Place a 4-foot slake in each pot and
than it would be later on when the foliage is
harder.
Sowing Lawn Grass. — Those having lawn
grass seed to sow will find the present as good
a time as any ; but, of course, much will depend
on the state of the soil. It is essential that the
surface should be got into a very fine state by
repeated raking and rolling. As most of the seeds of
the finer grasses are very light, the sowing must be
done on a calm day, otherwise the seeds would be
blown into patches, which is most objectionable.
train up the leading shoot, rubbing out all side
growths as they appear. Stop the plants at the
top of the stake to induce them to form a head.
Some time in July they should be plunged out
of doors till the autumn. About next February
they may be potted into g-inch or lo-inch pots
and brought on gradually. It is not advisable
to pinch out the flowers at any stage of their
growth ; this gives the plants a check. Rather
let them grow naturally.
Watering Recently Planted Trees. — Should
.As sparrows and finches are particularly fond of the weather be hot and dry, all recently planted
grass seeds, it will be necessary to protect the ' fruit trees shoiild receive a good soaking. Indeed,
if it were possible, one might
use the hose for this purpose.
This will not only supply
moisture, but wash the fine
soil among the roots. When
this has been done, replace
the mulching, and the pos-
sibilities are that the trees will
not require another watering
for some time.
Planting Border Carna-
tions.— If these were potted
in the autumn and have
wintered in cold frames, no
time should be lost in plant-
ing them in their permanent
quarters. The soil for this
purpose should be rich, with
a fair quantity of sand
among it, and if this was dug
early in the year, so much
the better, as nothing will be
necessary now beyond break-
ing and levelling the surface.
The plants should then be
carefully removed from the
pots and planted firmly in
straight lines at equal dis-
tances apart. Frequent dust-
ings of soot may be given with advantage
during the growing season.
The Common Dog's-Tooth Violet.— Erythro-
nium Dens-canis is one of the most interesting
of hardy plants flowering at the present time.
Even when out of bloom it is attractive, the
leaves being mottled with a brownish colour.
There are a number of beautifvd forms, from pure
white to dark purple, while some have broader
segments. A colony of these is of great interest,
and it is surprising that this old-fashioned flowei
is not made more use of. A peaty soil, with some
shade, suits it best, although it grows and
flowers satisfactorily in the full sun,
NARCISSUS BULBOCODIUM CITRINUS, A CHARMING VARIETY OF THE
HOOP-PETTICOAT DAFFODIL.
plat in some way. If this is not too large,
herring-nets can be used. On larger patches
black thread may be placed on small twigs run
across the ground in various directions. Ordinary
lawns should now be swept and rolled, and where
the grass is growing freely a start should be made
with the mower.
Standard Heliotropes for the Conservatory. —
These make a splendid addition to our summer-
flowering plants in the conservatory. To those
who have not gone in for this style of growing
Heliotropes, the present is a very good time to
make a start. Select some strong plants that
have been grown in pots, and pot on, say, into
190
THE GARDEN.
[April i8, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
glandulosa, Arenaria balearica, Ametua echioide*,
Aster alpiiius, Aubrietia Moerheimii, Campanula
G. F. Wilson, C. muralis, C. ponenschlagiana
major. Pianthus negleclus, Dryas octopetala,
Erinus alpinus, Geranium argenteum ,G. lancastri-
New Zealand Flax (Phormium tenax). — Thf ease, Gypsophila prostrata, Haberleo rhodopensis,
cultural directions for this valuable plant given Hutchinsia alpina, Iberis sempervueiis Little
in The Garden of .\pril 4, page 176, seem to me I Gem, Mertensia primuloides, Myosotis rupicola,
somewhat misleading. It is true that it will Onosma tauricum, Papaver alpinum, Phlo.x
grow well iu " good. loamy soil," but that is by canadensis Laphamii, Primula clusiana, Ramondia
no means essential to its vigour. In its native Nataliae, R. pyrenaica, Saponaria ocymoides
country, I believe, its natural habitat is on land splendens, Saxifraga pyramidalis, Sempervivum
subject to winter inundation, and on sandy and arachnoideum, Silene alpestris, Tunica Saxifraga
shingly river banks. In the South- West of and Viola gracilis. — J. M. Struowmax. Marlborough
Scotland, where it ripens immense quantities Cottage, Sofievej-Hellerup.
of seed, it flourishes rampantly in swampy ground The Kew Flagstaff. — It may interest you to
and peaty moorland, where few choice things ' know that the Kew flagstaff was cut within a
would survive. The cultivation of it on a com- mile of where this is written, and that a special
mercial scale has been undertaken in that region port had to be cut in the ship in order to allow I only for their marvellous flowers.'
Stone Fruits in Scotland.— The Rev. David k.
Williamson wiites us as luUows from Kirkmajden
.Manse. Wigtownshire, on April 3rd : " Owing
doubtless chiefly to the mildness of the present
spring and the heat of last summer, there is every
appearance of an abundant blossom on the stone fruit
t-'ees in South-Wcstem Scotland this year. The
extremely beautiful and effective Primus Pissardii
(the Persian Plum) has been for the last fortnight
in luxuriant bloom in the centre of my garden.
It has been closely followed by the Almond, whose
pale pink flowers are just beginning to expand.
Exceedingly promising, from a floral point of
view, are such tine Plums as the Victoria, The
Czar, Early Rivers' and Denniston's Superb
Green Gage ; also such varieties of the Cherry
as Black Eagle, May Duke, Early Rivers' and
Morello, which would be worthy of cultivation if
for the production of fibre of a superior
quality. — Herbert Maxwell, Monreith.
Acacia dealbata. — Reading the corre-
spondence on this subject on page 155.
issue March 28, I thought a few words
on this beautiful tree from this part would
be interesting to readers. We have here in
the gardens three large trees ; the largest
is about 4 feet in girth (6 feet from the
ground), 35 feet high and 20 feet through.
Two are somewhat sheltered from the north
by two Eucalyptus trees, but the best speci-
men is not sheltered so much. These trees
flower about January, that is, following a
dry summer. I have known all the flower-
buds destroyed on the north side, with 6° of
frost, while the south side of the tree has
bloomed freely. I gathered some beautiful
sprays this year. But, apart from its flowers,
its silvery grey foliage is quite a feature in
itself, being so finely divided and graceful
ill appearance. — J. J. Gribble, Penlee,
Penzance.
The Fifty Best Alpines. — Havmg decided
tij add a small extension to my rockery, I
turned up The Garden for last year's March
and April in order to consult the four lists
of the fifty best alpines then given, respec-
tively by Mr. S. Arnott, Mr. Reginald
Farrer, Mr. William Little and Mr. G. F.
Hyland. Each list gives the names and
cultural directions of fifty alpines which
in the author's opinion are those best suited
for a small garden. On examiniiig the lists
I find that they comprise 130 different plants
— on the face of it a little bewildering ; but, on
going more closely into the matter, I find
that, curiously enough, the names of exactly fifty
plants recur in two or more lists. As it occm-red
to me that those of your readers who, like myself,
value the opinion of others might wish to know
the names of these fifty plants without being put
to the trouble of finding them out for themselves, I
enclose details. For cultural directions I must refer
readers to the original lists given on pages 115,
151, 187 and 211 of The Garden for 1913. In all
four lists appear Arenaria montana, Primifla
marginata and Saxifraga burseriana. In three
lists appear Androsace lanuginosa, Aubrietia
Dr. Mules, Dianthus alpinus, G«ntiana acaulis,
Hepatica angulosa, Hypericum reptans, Litho-
spermum prostratum, O.xalis enneaphylla, Phlox
subulata Nelsonii, Primula nivalis, Saxifraga
lingulata lantoscana, S. Wallace!, Silene Schafta
and Veronica rupestre. In two lists appear
Anemone sylvestris, Anthemis .^izoon, Aquilegia
RHODODENDRO.X l.NTRICATUM, A DWARF SPECIES
FROM CHINA. THE FLOWERS AReJj.AVENDER BLUE.
it to be got in. I believe a few feet had to be
cut off the spar in order to get it into the ship.
There is a movement on to send another
and bigger spar to replace it. It will prob-
ably be 200 feet long if it can be shipped.
The necessary trees are here. I noticed a few
weeks ago a note in The Garden about flowers
visited by humming-birds. We get lots of them
here in the summer, and they visit every kind
of flower. I have a Lychnis chalcedonica just
outside my dining-room window which they are
very fond of, and have to stand on their heads
to get at the middle flowers. They are also very
fond of Carnations, Delphiniums, Columbines and
Fuchsias. It is very pretty to see them hover
motionless (except for their wings, which go too fast
to see) in the air outside the window " sitting on
nothing," as the children put it. — C. T. Hilton,
Third Avenue, Port Alberni, British Colu^nbia.
A New Rhododendron (or the Rock
Garden (R. intricatum). — During the last
ten to fifteen years our gardens have been
enriched with many new species of Rhodo-
dendron from China. Mr. E. H. Wilson's
introductions alone exceed fifty species and
varieties, many of which so far have not
flowered iu this country. .\mong those
which have bloomed, none has proved a
greater acquisition to our gardens than
R. intricatum, the subject of the illustra-
tion on this page. For the rockery and
alpine garden it is an ideal plant. Mr.
Wilson, in his notes on China, describes
R. intricatum as one of the moorland
species, growing 2 feet to 3 feet in height.
Being a comparatively slow-growing plant
with us, the compact little bushes are still
less than a foot in height, though nearly
seven years old from cuttings. An ever-
green species, the small, oval leaves are
a quarter of an inch to a third of an
inch long, densely clothed on both surfaces
with small, . peltate scales, dark green
above and a brownish white hue beneath.
The dainty lavender blue flowers, each
about half an inch across, are borne in
clusters of three to five, and are verx-
freely produced. At a little distance away,
one of the plants suggests a bunch of
Violets. The fact that there are several
dwarf species of Rhododendron in China
allied to R. intricatum has, unfortu-
nately, led to some confusion in the names.
The subject of this note, when first
exhibited by Messrs. James Veitch at
the meeting of the Royal Horticultural
Society on April 2, 1907, received a first-class
certificate as R. nigro-punctatum. It differs from
that species, however, in having the flowers in
clusters, those of R. nigro-punctatum being
solitary. A third closely allied species, also with
lavender blue flowers, named R. fastigiatum.
has been recently introduced from China by
Mr. G. Forrest. This is readily distinguished
from R. intricatum, as it has prominent exserted
anthers, those of R. intricatum being shorter
than the corolla. The best means of propagation
is by cuttings of partially mature shoots inserted
in pots of sandy peat during late summer. For
preference plunge the pots in a propagating-pit
with a little bottom-heat. The plants illustrated
are growing in a well-drained bed of sandy loam,
peat and leaf-mould. The flowering season is
March and early April. The accompanying
photograph was taken on .^pril 4. — \. O.
April i8, 1914]
THE GARDEN.
19]
Corydalis cheilanthitolia. — Tiiis pretty plant
Las given me much pleasure ever since 1 had it
some years ago Irom the garden of my greatly
regretted friend, the late Dr. A. R. Wallace. The
deep green, Fem-like Joliage is always a joy to
see when there is but little well-developed plant
life early in March, with the fresh interest of the
bright yellow bloom that comes a week or two
later. It comes up freely from self-sown seed,
but this year, to my great pleasure, it has appeared
on both faces of a high wall at a height of from
7 feet to ID feet above the ground. The wall
is of the local sandstone, built less than thirty
years ago. How the seed got up to that height
on both sides of the wall, and how it can have
lound lodgment and the little plants nutriment.
Is a complete and delightful puzzle. The plants
ill the wall are naturally smaller in foliage, and
the proportion of flower to leaf greater, thaii
where they . grow on the level nr on (ordinary
rockwork. — G. Jekvll.
Aster Disease. — I notice a very interesting
article on this subject in The Garden of March 31
issue, but, while admitting that the course advised
there may be a feasible one under certain circum-
stances, 1 cannot say that gardeners will derive
much benefit or consolation from it. I have
carried out some experiments in connection with
this tantalising and disastrous disease, and
1 find that a 2 per cent, to 3 per cent, solution of
lormalin invariably secures immunity. The method
tit using this liquid is very simple ; the soil of
the border is ridged up, then sprayed liberally
with the liquid, and the ridges are levelled down
roufjhly so that the fumes may be conserved. The
border, however, must be vacant for at least three
weeks before plants are placed in the soil, and, i^
possible, this period should be increased for a
week or two. We have used the same solution for
the composts in the seed-pan, and for the boxes
of soil into which the plants were pricked off.
To prevent introduction of the disease with new
seeds, we now steep all for fifteen minutes in a
very weak solution of formalin, one teaspoonfuJ
of the commercial liquid (40 per cent.) in one gallon
of soft water, and no trouble is ever experienced.
Experimenting with soils and manures, we also
find that fresh organic matter or heavy dressings
of nitrogenous manure encourage the development
of the fungus, and my advice to readers is to plant
.■\sters in soil which is " in good heart." i.e., which
is rich, but has not been recently manured. —
H. H. A.
Bulbs for Spring Planting Outside. — While
no one will gainsay Mr. .Arnott's dictum on
page I.S9, issue March r4, that many bulbous-
rooted subjects " require to be lifted in late
autumn and stored until spring," few, I think,
will share his views that the middle of March
is a " good time " to plant the Belladonna Lilies,
and, among others, the hardiest of the Alstr.oe-
merias. By the recommended planting-time the
first named, given the shelter of a greenhouse
wall or south wall, have in the ordinary course
made leaf growth from 6 inches to 12 inches
above the ground, and the cultivator cannot
keep such a bulb in the dry state for months
with impunity. Moreover, as is distinctly pointed
out at page 139, the Belladonna Lily is quite
hardy in the positions indicated ; hence there
would appear no legitimate reason for deferring
the planting till so late a date. In the case of
the Alstrcemerias, the growth would be very near
the surface in March, while long-established
patches might even be well through the soil ;
hence one does not see the gain to be derived.
On the contrary, assuming that dry bulbs or tubers
of those named are employed, there will be an
unmistakable loss of all that, is of benefit to the
future plant — root-fibre and leaf production, for
example, which, combined and developed in due
season, are essential to bulb growth. With certain
plants — the tuberous Anemones and Ranunculi — •
little or no harm follows this deferred planting ;
hence for the sake of expediency, and with a desire
to extend a season of flowering more particularlv,
it is worth pursuing. — E. H. Jenkins.
Lime in the Garden. — In reply to ■ j. D.,"
page 143, column i, taking the last paragraph
first, " J. D." would be far better advised to use
soot in preference to lime for his lawns. Used
now at the rate of 20 bushels (costing ros.) to
1,400 square yards, he would be agreeably sur-
prised in a fortnight's time. This will destroy
moss and many other weeds, besides imparting
a beautiful colour to his lawns. With regard
to the use of lime for Potatoes, after twelve years'
experience I unhesitatingly say that it is one of
the finest things that can be used for the pre-
vention of scab. I mean the scab caused by
insects, not black scab, which is of fungoid origin.
I have used quicklime, covering both the shoot
and Potato, without the slightest injury. As
to quality, I quote the words of a well-known
Scottish authority, who once said to me, " I
wouldn't have believed that such Potatoes could
be grown out of Scotland." — S. G. Smallridce,
The Gardens, Battledene, Newbury.
With regard to the use of lime for
Potatoes, doubtlessly a good many growers are
influenced by the fact that in the leaflet
issued by the Board of Agriculture on the
subject, the application of lime is said to be one
of the causes of scab, i.e., the ordinary Potato
scab, not black scab. This is an error. Scab is
most likely to occur in soils in which the skins of
the swelling Potatoes are injured or punctured by
stones, grit or similar unyielding bodies in the soil.
On laud dressed with night soil containing ashes,
scab is almost sure to occur, and a belief widely
prevalent, that land under Potatoes for the first
time is likely to produce a scabby crop, arises from
the fact that the thorough working necessary for
Potato culture has previously not been necessary,
and consequently the land has not such a fine tilth
and the tubers are more likely to be abraded in
the rough soil. The experiment on which the
Board of Agriculture based their theory was carried
out in the following manner ; Lime was taken on to
the land previous to use, and allowed to lie exposed
to heavy rains until not only was it slaked, but
reduced to a pasty mass — to all intents, mortar.
This was applied to part of the field, and the results
were what might be expected. The lime set in
lumps, and scab was more prevalent in that plot
than in the unlimed portion. Freshly slaked lime,
applied in spring in powdered form up to three tons
per acre, will not be detrimental to any Potato
crop, but, besides its chemical action on the manure,
will prove a valuable fungicide as well. — F. M. S.,
East Yorks.
FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
April 21. — Royal Horticultural Society's Exhi-
bition and National Ailricula and Primula Society's
Combined Show at Vincent Square, Westminster.
Lincolnshire Daffodil Show.
April 23. — National Rose Society's Spring Show
at the Royal Horticultural Society's Hall. Midland
Daffodil Show at Birmingham (two days).
THE ENEMIES OF THE
NARCISSUS.
NOT very long ago it was written of
the Narcissus that it had " but
one insect and one disease." Alas !
this dictum cannot be accepted at
the present time, and it behoves
those who grow this beautiful flower
— and who does not ? — to at once realise the many
dangers which beset the path of the cultivator.
The Lesser Narcissus Fly. — The enemies of
the Narcissus are many, and the cry, unfortu-
nately, is " still they come." The latest to claim
attention is the lesser Narcissus fly (Humerus
lunulatus), which would appear to at least rival
its greater brother, the Merodon equestris, in its
capacity for destruction. The two flies are
closely allied in entomological classification,
and both eat out the interior of the bulb, resulting,
in almost every case, in its complete destructiort.
In one way the Eumerus lunulatus may be less
to be dreaded than the larger Narcissus fly, for
it does not appear to do what the latter is accredited
with doing, namely, lay its eggs, variously stated
at sixty or a hundred per fly, each in a separate
bulb, but, so far as can be at present ascertained,
very many, if, indeed, not all, of its eggs in the
one bulb which it first attacks.
But it makes up in thoroughness for what it
may lack in other respects, as the following will
show : In two bulbs of N. Bernardino just raised
were found, respectively, thirty-two and eighty
grubs, and in a single bulb of N. Glory 'of Noord-
wijk over a liundred ; in fact, the bulbs so raised
were simply sacks of grubs closely packed. What
this would have meant had the grubs been allowed
to pass into the pupal state, and issue therefrom
later as flies to propagate their species, presents
to the imagination a truly appalling picture.
Of course, some bulbs raised contained but few
larv£e ; but, up to the time of writing, some
2,000 have been destroyed, and the process of
examination is not yet quite ended. With what
serious quickness this pest may increase is shown
by the fact that when, two seasons ago, I lifted
and replanted my special Narcissus borders,
I had none of it. Probably in that year (rgia)
newly purchased bulbs brought with them the
larviE, which employed their time in the following
year for the results of 1914. Very little, if any-
thing, has been known abcjut this fly, so far as
its attacks on Narcissi are concerned, although
it has appeared in places in the Iris. During
the last year only does it appear to have come
under observation as an enemy of the Narcissus,
when it was detected in the South-West Counties .
Doubtless by this time it has made its home in
many Narcissus gardens elsewhere, and it behoves
everyone interested in the matter to make imme-
diate search, if only to achieve the satisfactory
result of finding that the enemy does not exist.
The fly is small, about the size of the common
house-fly, so that attempts to catch it with a net
would be useless. ' Like the Merodon equestris,
the Eumerus limulatus appears to be a " sunshine
fly," for in no case have I found Narcissi growing
under the shade of trees, whether planted in grass
or otherwise, attacked. The grub is somewhat
similar to that of the Merodon equestris, but is
rather darker in colour, and is smaller, not exceed-
ing five-sixteenth of an inch. In gardens in which
the grubs can now be found, there does not appear
to be any alternative to the plan which I am now
iy2
THE GARDEN.
[April i8, 1914.
pursuing, namely, to have every blank spaoe
in a row carefully searched lor the remnants of
the missing bulb, and also to have ever\' bulb
showing distinctly unhealthy foliage lifted for
examination. By this means the pest must be
so seriously i;hecked that the control of another
season may lead to its practical extermination.
Foot's Cray. Charles E. Shea.
{To bti conUnued.)
PEAT
ROCK
GARDENS.
In order to arrest, if possible, the storm of indig-
nation that this innovation might raise among
the orthodox rock gardeners, let me say at once
that I do not for a moment suggest that peat
should become the universal material for " rock-
work " construction ; but for those — and they
are very many — -who, like myself, are .within
reach of a peat-producing district, it has several
advantages. It is cheap to buy, easy to work,
makes a splendid background for plants, keeps
remarkably free from weeds, and, as I will relate,
lias proved an excellent material for growing
alpines in, and I think I may fairly claim from
various reasons, had to be built up against a
high wall (some lo feet high] I first banked up
against the wall rubbish drawn from the garden —
turves, rubble, &c.— and placed about eighteen
inches of rough drainage stones on top. I then
covered this pile with loose peat at least a feet
deep, stamping it down firmly as it was shovelled
up. This stamping is important ; it prevents
undue " sinking." I then found I had a bank
of peat up against the wall some 8 feet to 9 feet
liigh and sloping fairly abruptly from the wall
to the ground-level (the wall faces south-east).
The north-east side of thi^ heap w-as then faced
AN INTERESTING EXPERIMENT.
SO many people have asked me to give them j ray experience that, at any rate, it is a very useful I with large clods of peat, making it into abrupt
the results of my experiments witli what .ilternativf to soil ,ind stonos. I will first eive ' cliffs or terraces with occasional bays and pockets,
they are pleased to term
my "peatworks," that
I now, after having
given the experiment a
fair trial, set down the history
of experiments and their results
for the benefit of those who, liki
myself, are in a peat country or
within reacii of it.
When I first started culti-
vating alpines, I proceeded in
the orthodox mannet, and duh
built rockwnriv and added moraines
and other features ; but as my
collection of plants increased, I
found it dilficult to obtain suitable
stone without expensive cartage,
and I was driven to search for
substitutes. My soul abhorred the
idea of concrete slabs, and one
day, as an e.xperiment, I inserted,
in the place of a stone which 1
had removed, a slab of peat (cut
from the top spit of a bog), with
the happiest results. It retained
the soil in its place, and the plants
behind it took kindly to it, and
eventually rooted into it. Next
year, to the stone problem w.i'.
added the soil problem. My
gardener strongly objected to
the constant removal 'of the best
of his kitchen garden soil for the
nourishment of my alpines, and I
ventured upon a further e.xperi-
ment— I made a " rockwork "
entirely of peat, using large
blocks — cut from the top spit ot
the bog — instead of stones, and
filling up the pockets, some with
loose peat, others with peat and
sand, peat and loam, and peat
and leaf-nKjuld.
My friends were critical and
sceptical. I was told that even
if the plants survived, which
was more than doubtful, it
was quite certain that my
peatwork would subside before
the winter rains and frosts
had passed away. But I am
glad to say that these gloomy prognostications
A CATKIN-BEARING SPRAY Ol" ALNUS OREGONA, THE MOST
BEAUTIFUL Ol' ALL THE ALDERS HARDY IX THIS COUNTRY.
some idea of the torni and construction of the
have not been fulfilled ; the plants have thriven, 1 original peatworU, and will then give a list of
and, after three winters' rain (our rainfall is somC'
where under 40 inches), the peatwork has sunk ver\
little, even less, I fancy, than some of the loam and
some of the plants growing upon it.
My rock garden has no pretensions to archi-
tectural beauty. I started with a small piece,
■itone banks, and I am more than pleased with it. and as the necessity for further space arose I
Encouraged by this success, I madf last year built all round it. If I could pull it all dov\-n and
two similar, but larger, peatworks, and I hear that I start afresh, no doubt I should evolve some-
some of my friends are now following my example, thing very different. The original peatwork, for
using the clods of peat exactU-
as if they were blocks of stone,
and packing the spaces and
irevices with loose peat. This
cliff face extends to the end of
the loose peat heap, and then
projects to the east, about fifteen
feet, like a long " nose." This
nose is sheer on both sides,
and is only some 3 feet thick
at the top. The loose peat on
the south-west side of this clifi
was shovelled up against the
cliff until it was level with the
top of the cliff, and the loose
lieap was then contained by
the wall on one side and the
clift' on another. The heap was
finally gradually sloped down on
the other sides to the ground-
level by the insertion of retain-
ing blocks 'of peat here and
there, forming descending ter-
races. The pockets and slopes
were then levelled up with
loose peat, or peat plus the
other ingredients mentioned, and
I proceeded to plant.
Now as to the plants, my idea
being only to thoroughly test peat
as a soil substitute for alpines,
there are plants of all sorts
and sizes upon this peatwork,
placed indiscriminately, with
very little regard to eft'ect. It
needed 'some courage, in view
of my friends' prognostications,
to entrust one's treasures to
the experiment ; but I hardened
my heart, and as far as was
possible placed specimens of every-
thing I had upon it.
Let us walk round the peat-
work, noting the plants as we
go. We start at the north-east
side. Here the peat cliffs are
nearly ten feet high and fairly
abrupt. High up, the heights
are crowned with Maples and
.\zaleas. .\ little lower on the
face and from the chinks sprout
Hepaticas, .Arenaria montana, Myosotis Wel-
witschei, M, pyrenaica, M. pygma-a, and Mossy
Saxifrages everywhere. Lower down, in pockets
of peat, sand and leaf-mould, Saxifraga mutata,
S. Lyallii, S. mertensiana. S. Fortunci, S, brunoni-
ana, and some dwarf Gaultherias, Saxifraga
aspera and Boykinia occidentale hang over
the edge. Then Shortia galacifolia, Viola septen
trionalis, Sanguinaria canadense, Jeflersonia
April i8. 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
193
diphylla, Viola glabella, Erythroniums, Ourisia
roccinea, O. macrophylla, Orobus cyaneus. Hous-
tonia serpyllitolia, Wahlenbergla saxicola, W.
gracilis, Goodyera Menziesii, Campanula pnlla.
C. Stansfieldii, Castillea acuminata, Polygalas,
Raraondias and Haberleas : and all over the
cliffs Primula capitata and P. cockburniana, and
others, such as P. Unique and P. angustidens
at the base.
Coming round the east and south-east sides
of the " nose," we see Oxalis adenophylla, O.
enneaphylla, Myosotis rupicola, M. antarctica,
Lithospermum prostratum, L. intermedium, L.
Zollingieri, L. rosmarinifolium, L. Frcelichii,
Pellaea densa, Campanula muralis, C. garganica,
Potentilla ambigua and P. Tonguei. Then upon
the south and south-west slopes and pockets
Mossy Saxifrages at foot, Viola gracilis, V. bosniaca,
Saxifraga integrifolia, S. erioblasta, S. reflexa.
Iris, Campanula pulloides, QEnotheras, Nierembergia
rivularis, N. frutescens, Azaleas, Aquilegias,
Gentians, Anemone blanda, A. multifida, Vero-
nicas, Phloxes, Convolvulus althasoides. Daphne
Cneorum, Codonopsis ovata, Tulipa kaufman-
niana, Arnebia echioides, Mertensias and many
others.
On the newer portions of the peatworks are
others — too numerous to mention here — on trial,
some of which it is as yet too early to speak of
with any authority. But my experience so far
leads me to believe that there are comparatively
few plants that will not succeed in peat, and
some — not necessarily " lime haters " — do better
in it with me than in any other soil. I have
hitherto always lost Nierembergia frutescens in
loam, and it has thriven and passed through
three winters in peat. Gentiana verna and
Codonopsis ovata I have never had so fine in
loam. I must confess that I have not as yet
tried the Kabschia Saxifrages or such inveterate
lieat-lovers as .Acantholimon, but practically
everything else in my collection is now in peat
on trial, and the only failures I can chronicle
are Gentiana acaulis, which exists, but turns
yellow, and Sph^eralcea munroana, which is
a heat-lover and dies in the winter wherever
I put it. I will try some of the Onosmas
and jEthionemas in a pocket strongly diluted
with sand just for the sake of the experiment,
but we get hardly sufficient winter sun for
them in the moraine, so I am not sanguine
of success. But all alpines which are not
inveterate drought-lovers I shall plant in peat
with confidence.
I confess that I am surprised at these results.
I had slight hopes that difficult and delicate
plants would survive. It may be that peat,
though moist, does not clog the roots in winter
and retains its moisture in the summer, and so
assists the plants growing in it in the same manner
as the stone chips do in a moraine. Anyhow,
as far as this place is concerned, the experiment
has proved more than satisfactory, and if any
of your readers care to try a similar experiment,
I should be happy to assist them in any way
I coiJd. I note in M. Correvon's latest work
that he is trying difficult plants in peat beds
sunk in concrete tanks with artificial irriga-
tion. In our damp climate such an arrange-
ment is, of course, unnecessary. The list
of plants I have given is far from, complete ;
but I would, of course, give a complete
list of those tried and on trial if it were so
desired. Murray HoRfriBROOK.
Knapton^ Abbey Leix, Irel-and.
SOME UNCOMMON ALDERS
THE Alders belong to the widely dis-
tributed genus Alnus, comprising
deciduous trees and shrubs, natives
of Europe, America, North Africa
and Asia. There are about twenty-
five or twenty-six species, but probably
less than twenty of these are in cultivation.
In addition to these there are fully as many named
varieties, principally of the two common species,
Alnus glutinosa and A. incana. There are also
two hybrids, A. elliptica (cordifolia x glutinosa)
and A. Spathii. With one or two exceptions,
notably A. maritima and A. nitida, the Alders
flower early in the year, either in advance of the
leaves or as they develop. The trees, laden with
the pendent male catkins, brighten up the landscape,
heralding the approach of warmer weather. These ,
with the female flowers in close proximity, are
borne in clusters at the ends of the thin terminal
and lateral shoots.
Our common .Mder, A. glutinosa, is a familiar j
and attractive tree, growing generally in wet 1
i the species. They are usually borne m pairs,
occasionally singly, rarely in clusters of three
together, greenish yellow in colour. No other
Alder has quite the stiff, straight habit noticeable
in A. firma. Two new Alnuses, A. cremastogync
and A. lanata, are of recent introduction from
China. Mr. E. H. Wilson describes the former
as a tall, slender tree 80 feet to 100 feet in height.
.\. lanata is distinguished by the woolly character
of the young shoots and undersides of the leaves.
Two other attractive Asiatic Alders are A. nitida,
a native of the Western Temperate Himalayas,
quite hardy in this country, and A. japonica, a
Japanese species.
Several varieties of the common Alder ha\-c
distinctly ornamental leaves, the best being A.
glutinosa imperialis (asplenifolia). In winter the
reddish bark of the young twigs is distinctly
pleasing in \. incisa ramulis coccineis, the tree
being still more beautiful in January and February,
when the male catkins mature.
The best means of propagating the Alders is
from seeds, which, as a rule, are freely produced
on the exotic as well as the native species in this
SPRAY Ob- A JAPANESE ALDER'(ALNUS FIRMA). THE CATKINS ARE THICK AND RIGID.
and swampy places. Besides difieriiig consider-
ably in foliage in the summer, the male catkins
vary greatly in size and other respects on the
difierent species. Several of the exotic species
surpass our native ones in this respect ; in fact,
A. oregona, from Western North America, a spray
of which is illustrated, is one of, if not the,
most beautiful of all the catkin-bearing trees
cultivated in this country. At their best during
the month of March, the male catkins are 5 inches
to 6 inches long, in clusters of three to five, at
the ends of the thin, twiggy growths of the previous
season. Words cannot adequately describe their
beautiful coloiu-ing and markings, a combination
of red, orange, yellow and green of Oriental beauty.
The weight of the large catkins at the ends of
the twigs gives the branches a graceful, slightly
pendent habit. In its native habitat A. oregona
attains a height of about forty feet to fifty feet.
A pleasing contrast to the American tree is
A. firma, the second species illustrated, which is
a native of Japan. The catkins are 2 inches
to 2\ inches long, and thirker than in rnost of
country. The varieties i\rv increased by graftmg,
using small plants of A. glutinosa as a stock.
For the lakeside and in the pleasure grounds and
woodland where the soil is not too dry, the Alders
are very attractive trees. Generally speaking,
the trees are of moderate dimensions, and in
consequence a tree or two may be fittingly planted
in gardens of no great size. \. O.
HARDY ASIATIC PRIMULAS,
NEITHER CHINESE NOR HIMA-
LAYAN.
[Continued from page 180.)
P. Julias (Kusnetzow). — Although only of
recent introduction, seeing that it was discovered
In iqoi, and first flowered in this country in igri,
P. Juliffi is already highly favoured by all who
have groivn it. It comes from the Caucasus,
and is one of the moisture-loving Primulas ; it is
quite an easy subject to cultivate. It belongs
to the Vemalis section of Pax. although Profesfor
194
THE GARDEN.
[April i8, 1014.
Balfour does not think it should be so placed.
It is a very hardv plant, with membranous,
roimded-petioled leaves, and a plentiful supply
of reddish flowers showing just above the
leaves. Cultivation : Any soil and any position
seem to suit it. but it does best in good rich soil
in shade.
P. Kaufmanniana (Kegel). — This has pubescent,
petiolate rounded, lobed leaves and scapes
bearing a number of rose violet flowers. It
comes from Turkestan, and is amenable to
the same treatment as P. cortusoides and other
members of the section Cortusoides, to which it
. belongs.
P. longiflora (All.). — Although recorded from
•Armenia and the Caucasus, P. longiflora- is really
European in its area. It is a well-known plant
in our gardens, and need not be further mentioned
at present. Cultivation : The treatment recom-
mended for P. farinosa will suit it.
P. luteola (Ruprccht). — Few people are
miserable, and the flowers are always destroyed
by frost and rain. It loves shade and moisture.
It comes from Layistan and was introduced
about 1896. Professor Balfour places this plant
in a separate section — that of Megaseaefolia —
instead of following Pax and including it with
the Carolinella.
P. nivalis (Pallas). — Pallas' P. nivalis has
nothing whatever to do mth the garden P. nivalis,
which is correctly only P. hirsuta nivea, and is
quite a distinct thing from the Asiatic P. nivalis.
The latter belongs to the Nivalis section, and
P. hirsuta to the Erythrodosa. P nivalis and
its microforms are widely dispersed, and are found
in one or more forms from the Caucasus, Turkestan,
Afghanistan and the Himalayas to the Altai and
Baikal districts. It is a good grower, with oblong-
elliptic, crenate-denticulate leaves, and scapes
carrying umbels of purple flowers on short pedicels
and with greenish purple calyces. It has a prefer-
ence for moist places.
GARDEN CACTUS DAHLIAS.
PRIMULA JUH/K, A KAKIC HARDV SPHCIES FROM THE CAUCASUS, WITH REDDISH BLUE IT.OWliRS
sufficiently acquainted with the East Caucasus,
Turkestan and Daghestan P. luteula, which has
been cultivated since 1867, and is one of the best
of our hardy Primulas. It has leaves of a lanceolate-
elliptic shape, obtuse and denticulated, with the
blade narrowing into a petiole, the scape rising
well above the leaves, and bearing a manv-flowered
umbel of pale yellow flowers. P. luteola is a native
of damp places and loves a moist soil, although
it is not too fastidious. Cultivation : Moist
situation in half shade. Soil rich, with a good
deal ot leat-mou'd
P. megaseaefolia (Boiss.).— This is a very
distinct plant, with large, broad, cartilaginous
leaves and bearing its flowers in umbels, sometimes
one above the other. These are called rose, but
they are more properly magenta rose. The colour
IS not specially acceptable to many, but, as this
Primula flowers in the winter, it is an acquisition
for a slightly heated greenhouse or a warm district.
Tn the colder parts, if grown in the open, it looks
P. saxatilis (Kom.). — For garden purposes
there is little to distinguish P. saxatilis from P.
cortusoides, a pi>int which has already been
discussed under P. cortusoides. It has been
suggested that P. saxatilis is only a microform
of the last named, and this is possiblv correct.
P. saxatilis, however, as has been previously
mentioned, has longer pedicels. It is quite
an easy plant to grow in moderately heavy
SJil. and gives a good supply of its reddish
flowers.
P. Sibirica (Jacq.). — This has already been
considered among the Chinese species, to whii'h
reference may be made for further particulars
regarding it.
P. Sieboldii. — This also has been previously
discussed when writing of the hardy Japanese
Primulas, so that it is imnecessary to mention it
further. Other sections of hardy Primulas
will be dealt %vith in subsequent articles.
Mnyelnviis, Duns. .John Macwatt
THIS term is applied to those vaneties
that are noted for their freedom in
flowering and their stiff, erect stems,
which carry the flowers well abo\'e
the foliage and thus produce a decora-
tive effect in the garden. The ex-
hibition Cactus Dahlias cannot produce a garden
display, for they have to be thinned out in growth
and the flowers disbudded to produce huge blooms.
Naturally, the stems are not strong enough to
support these large flowers, which weigh them
down and so destroy the effect in the garden.
Some of the best exhibition sorts will, if allowed
to develop more naturally, produce a fine effect.
I just point this out to show that both exhibition
and garden types cannot be gro^vn on the same
lines, for one is to produce a mass of flowers
for the garden, while the other is to produce
large exhibition blooms.
\t this season most amateurs are
] inking through their catalogues,
endeavouring to make a selection of
varieties for an autumn display. I
am afraid catalogues do not help
them very much in this respect, for
as a rule they are abbreviated copies
of the raisers' descriptions. Now. a
raiser mostly describes his new varie-
ties very fully and sees them in
their best possible colours. After
the first season, however, the descrip-
tions get cut down, with the result
that they are most difficult to
follow. I am also very much afraid
the lists copied down at flower shows
are very misleading to those amateurs
who want a garden display, for .-is
a general rule one only sees the best
exhibition sorts, and these are not
adapted to the object in view.
.\gain, I am quite sure the majority
of Dahlias do not receive the cul-
tural details they require, for it is
quite a common sight to see a huge
plant tied to a single stake like a
bundle of faggots. Under this
system the plants cannot be other
than unsatisfactor\'.
Now, to produce plants that will
commence to flower in August , or even
"arlier, it is essential that an early
start should be made. The plants
sliould be purchased in .\pril, when they are well
rooted ; this enables the cultivator to repot them
into 5-inch pots, thereby securing larger and
stronger plants ; it also prevents them getting
checked by being root-bound and starved, and
at the same time we have a stronger plant to
resist the attacks of slugs. If room is limited in
a cool greenhouse, the plants can be relegated
to a cold frame, where they grow steadily and
sturdily ; but they must be protected from frost.
Nothing is gained by planting too early, and the
last week in May or the first week in June is quite
soon enough, according to the district. There arc
many people who are under the impression that
the Dahlia requires a very rich soil ; this is not
so. as such soils usually produce a mass of sofi,
succulent growth which does not produce good
flowers. Really, a soil that grows good vegetables
will make an ideal Dahlia soil. A little decayed
manure can be mixed with the soil in the station
prior to planting ; this ^^•iII help In ronser\T the
April i8, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
195
moisture in the soil, while a small handful of super-
phosphate of lime scattered in the soil around the
station is helpful in building up a strong plant.
Most Dahlias will occupy a space 4 feet square
during the season, but it should always be remem-
bered that a Dahlia can be grown in a smaller
space if desired ; it is only a question of thinning
and pruning.
Before planting, the central stake should be
firmly driven in the soil and the plant put out
with a spade, not a trowel ; the latter does not
disturb the ground sufficiently. Later in the
season each plant should have three or four smaller
stakes driven round it, and the plant tied out to
?-ach stake ; this will admit light, air and .sun
to every part of the olant, and thus secure that
mature growth so essential to the production of
good flowers. Now, as to thinning out the growths.
In nearly every case, as far as the
Cactus section is concerned, this
thinning out is necessary. Part
of the lateral growths should be
removed from each main stem,
leaving, however, sufficient to make
a good, full plant. It requires
very little practice to enable the
i^rower to acquire this knowledge.
Those who have been in the habit
of relying on the single stake in
years past should adopt the four-
stake system, for I feel sure, if once
adopted, they would never return
to the old system. If large flowers
are required, only one bud should
be left to each growth ; otherwise,
allow all the buds to develop ; but
a partial disbudding of the flowers
is desirable in most instances.
As the Dahlia has to make its
growth very rapidly, it will occur
to every cultivator that, to obtain
the necessary food supply, plenty of
moisture is required ; so during dry
spells the Dahlia should receive a
good supply of water weekly, which
is infinitely preferable to more
frequent applications. Liquid
manure may be given, but it is not
nect:,3arv in the majority of cases.
The Question of Varieties is
the all-important one, and as far as
actual colours are concerned the
best varieties are quite a matter
of taste ; but all should have the
correct habit. The following have
been selected as some of the best
in a large collection : Amos Perry,
rich scarlet, 3 feet ; Duchess of
Sutherland, delicate blush pink,
.^ feet ; Mrs. Douglas Flemming, prnre white, 3 J feet ;
Blenda, rosy crimson. 3 feet ; Conquest, deep crim-
son, 3 feet ; Mrs. Forrester Paton, crimson scarlet,
3 feet ; Mrs. Charles Foster, rosy pink, 3J feet ;
Richard Bo.x, yellow, 3J feet ; Mary Purrier,
crimson scarlet, 3J feet ; Record, yellow, shading
to orange red, 4 feet ; Sweet Briar, pink, 4 feet ;
Edith Carter, yellow, tipped rosy carmine ; Sports-
man, bright scarlet, 4 feet ; Millicent, orange
I'armine, 2^ feet ; Sherlock, orange. 3 feet ;
Johannesburg, amber gold, 4 feet ; Lustre,
crimson with darker centre ; Mauve Queen, mauve,
3 feet ; Nellie Riding, crimson, tipped white, 3 feet ;
White Ensign, 3 feet ; Hon. Mrs. Greville, orange
yellow, 4 feet ; Florrie Wells, rosy crimson. 3 feet ;
and Vi^Td, intense scarlet, 3 feet. J. B. Riding.
THE EARLY FLOWERING
MAGNOLIAS.
THE JAPANESE PLUM.
(Prunus triflora.)
Although not very widely known, the Japanese
Plum, or Prunus triflora, to give it the correct
botanical name, is one of the most glorious of all
spring-flowering trees. The flowers, which open
as the Almond trees are passing out of bloom, are
white, and so freely are they produced that the
loosely formed sprays are wreathed in bloom to i
their very tips. The accompanying illustration
gives one a very good idea of its manner of growth i while in
and flowering ; moreover, it clearly emphasises coloured
the value of planting early flowering trees with ' with considerable freedom, and many kinds
light-coloured flowers against a background of ' rarely fail to produce a wealth of blossom when
T
HERE are few families of plants which
possess so many admirable features
as the genus Magnolia, for not only
are the flowers of most of the species
of an exceedingly attractive character,
but the leaves are also handsome,
many instances the fruits are hright-
and showy. Moreover, they bloom
deep green conifers or other dark-foliaged trees.
There are many varieties of the Japanese Plum,
and as commercial fruits they are appreciated, but
the flowering-time comes round.
The species may be divided into two distinct
groups by reason of the time of flowering. The
as flowering trees their exceptional beauty appears ' first group is made up of those kinds which pro-
duce their flowers on leafless
branches, and, the second, of the
ones which bloom during the sum-
mer or after the appearance of the
leaves. Perhaps of the two groups
the former is the more noticeable,
for the flowers open during late
March and April, before the
majority of spring plants are in
flower. They are really better
fitted for the Southern than for
the Northern Counties, although
even in the North some people
contrive to obtain good displays of
bloom by placing their plants
against warm walls.
It must be borne in mind,
however, that soil is an important
factor towards the well-being of
Magnolias. Warm and well-drained,
yet naturally moist loam is the best
kind to use, while a little peat or
leaf-mould placed about the roots
is appreciated. Root disturbance
must be avoided as far as possible,
for the plants are rather impatient
of root injury, and often take some
considerable time to re-establish
after being transplanted. For this
reason it is wise to carry out anv
transplanting operations during
very early autumn or late spring,
while the ground is warm. Neither
IS it advisable to do very much
pruning. Pruning is not essential
to success, and may well be left
alone, unless a little shaping or the
removal of a broken branch
i>ecomes necessary.
Magnolia conspicua, or th<'
Yulan as it is sometimes called,
is one of the most beautiful of the taller-growing
kinds. A native of China, it is said to have
been introduced about 1780. In the neigh-
bourhood of London numerous fine examples
are to be seen in the open ground, where thev
form bushy-headed trees 20 feet to 40 feet high
and as far through. Each year these trees are
laden with pure white, fragrant flowers, each
one about 4 inches long and 4 inches or 5 inches
across. Sometimes the flowers are browned bv cold
winds or frost ; therefore, when a position is being
selected, it is wise to bear this in mind and choose
a place where shelter from the north and east is
available. Although less showv than the Yulan.
M. Obovata, another Chinese species, demands
attention. Forming a spreading bush S feet ni
THE JAPANESE PLUM (PRUNUS TRIFLORA). THIS IS ONE
MOST CHARMING OF SPRING-FLOWERING TREES.
OF THE
to have been overlooked. P. triflora must not be
confused with P. triloba, a beautiful wall shrub, the
flowers of which in many gardens are now (April 7)
just opening ; neither must it be confused with
the Japanese Cherry (Prunus Pseudo-cerasus),
a glorious flowering Cherry, popular both in
Japan and in this country, and rightly regarded
as one of the most beautiful introductions we have
had from that land of flowers. P. triflora is a native
of China, and was probably imported into Japan.
Observations of more than usual interest on the
Japanese or Cape Plums appeared in The Garden
for March 14, page 135, where the writer, Mr. E. A.
Bun yard, referring to the adaptability of these
fruits to the English climate, says that experi-
ments so far lead tn nn hope of this possibility.
196
THE GARDEN.
[April i8. 1914.
?o high, it bears showy purple blossoms : but
it is as a subject for the hybridist that it is most
highly appreciated. Crossed with the Yulan, a
race of handsome hybrids has been raised, which
bloom with the freedom of JVI. conspicua and ;
grow into bushes 15 feet or 20 feet high. The
flowers of the different kinds are stained more
or less deeply with purple. Good ones are superba,
soulangeana, Alexandrina and Norbertii. A fine
example of M. soulangeana stands near an equally
fine specimen of M. conspicua in the Azalea Garden
at Kew. Even better examples of the last named
are to be seen in the gardens at Syon House and
Gunnersbury House.
M. Campbellii is a Himalayan species, and
one of the most magnificent of all kinds ; but.
unfortunately, it can only be grown
successfully in the mildest parts
of the country. In its native
country it attains the proportions
of a large tree, and examples
30 feet to 40 feet high have been
recorded in the British Isles. The
flowers are often 9 inches or
ro inches across and rich rose or
crimson on the outer side, paler
within. They are borne with regu-
larity in the gardens at Abbotsbury
Castle in Dorsetshire, in Sir E.
Loder's garden at Leonardslee,
and in several other places.
M, Lennei is a handsome-
flowered hybrid, its suggested
parentage being M. conspicua and
M. obovata ; but there appears to
be good reason to suppose that the
former species and M. Campbellii
are the parents, for both in size,
shape and colour the flowers more
strongly resemble those of the
Himalayan than of the Chinese
species. Moreover, it blossoms
several weeks later than the other
hybrids previously mentioned. It
is a magnificent sort, and should
find a place in every Southern
garden. M. rustica and its form
flore rubra are presumably of
similar parentage, the flowers being
large and rich in colf>ur.
M. stellata has been one of
nil choicest spring - flowering
shrubs for the past fifteen or
t wenty years. A native of
Japan, it is usually met with
as a shapely bush 4 feet to 8 feet
high, but plants are sometimes
found exceeding 12 feet in height
and 12 feet in diameter. The star-like, glistening
white flowers are made up of numerous narrow
petals, and they are very fragrant. A pink-
flowered form is also known. Except in stature,
the Japanese M. Kobus has much in common
with M. stellata, for it is difficult to distinguish
the leaves apart, and, except for fewer petals,
the flowers are similar in shape and size. It,
however, grows into a large tree.
One of the finest new-comers is found in the
Chinese and Japanese M. salicifolia. This is 1
free-growing plant which in its native country
IS said to grow from 15 feet to 20 feet high. Its
leaves are rather small arid narrow, and the white,
fragrant flowers are somewhat after the style
'if those of M. stellata. but rather larger and
•<>mp'^5ed <^t few^r petal* P.
NEW AND RARE PLANTS.
FIRST-CLASS CERTIFICATE,
Clematis Armandii. — A novelty, and an acquisi-
tion to boot, and without doubt the finest addition
to the genus for many a day. The species has
frequently been exhibited previously, but never
in the fine condition as on the present occasion.
It is hardy, more or less evergreen, early to
flower, with axillary clusters of flowers of the
purest white. It is a Chinese species, whose merits
have been fairly tested prior to being exhibited.
From the Hon. Vicary Gibbs, Elstree, Herts.
AWARDS OF MERIT.
Rhododendron fastigiatum. — Miniature bushes
were exhibited of this recent novelty from China.
.MAGNOLIA SALICIFOLIA. A NEW SPECIES FROM CHINA A
NOW FLOWERING AT KEW,
whence seeds \sere sent by Mr. E. H. Wilson.
The plants, of 6 inches or so high, were just
loaded with violet blue trusses of flowers, which
have brownish anthers. The plants shown were
from three to five years old from the sowing
of the seed. A large bush of it would be
most effective in the rock garden. Exhibited by
Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, Kent.
Rose Constance. — A high-class novelty belong-
ing to the penietiana set, and raised by M. J.
Pemet-Ducher. The flower-buds are of exceptional
length, rich yellow in colour, the outer petals
just touched with red. The foliage is handsome
and shining, the wood heavily beset with spines.
From Messrs. Bcckwith and Sons, Hoddesdon.
Auricula Gordon Douglas. — A very handsom"
fancv ! secure the
best results another year. When the plants
have finished their growth, gradually give more
air and allow them to rest in a quiet, cool structure.
Clivias. — Plants which have finished flowering
should not be allowed to suffer from the want of
water. Give frequent applications of liquid manure
throughout the summer, and do not pot the plants
before it is necessary. As the season advances,
the manure may be discontinued and the plants
grown in a cool structure.
The Flower Garden.
Pansies and Violas. — I'lauts whicli were
propagated from cuttings in the autumn should
now be planted in their flowering quarters. Both
the Pansy and Viola thrive best in deep, rich soil
.ind a somewhat shaded position where they
are not e.xposed to the full sunshine during the
liottest part ot the day.
Lobelia compacta. — Seedlings sh(nild be pricked
into boxr-, or frames as soon as large enough
to handle, for if once allowed to become drawn
they will be of very little value. When they have
become established and are groxving freely, the
tops may be clipped in order to induce side growths.
Mignonette. — Frequent sowings should be made
during the next two monlhs to ensure a continual
supply of flowers throughout the summer and
autumn. Keep a sharp look-out for slugs, which
are very fond of the young seedlings, and dust
the plants with soot in the early morning while
the leaves arc damp.
The Lawn. — Grass is growing rapidly now,
and should be mown frequently, as nothing is
gained bv allowing too long an interval in this
matter. 'Nothing is saved in labour, and the lawn
itself will sufft r in consequence. Trim the verges
frequently, as neglect in this matter tends to give
the garden an untidy appearance.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Peach and Nectarine Trees on walls will now
require careful attention. The disbudding of
these is an important matter, and should be
accomplished a little at a time, commencing at
the top of the tree and rubbing off the shoots
at the back of the branches, as well as those
directly in front, then others in unsuitable positions ;
but avoid severe thinning of the shoots at one
time, for it is safer practice to go over the trees
at intervals of a few days until the work is com-
pleted, and it is only by careful study of the
requirements of each tree that the work can be
successfully accomplished.
Insect Pests. — Aphides are a most troublesome
pest, and generally make their appearance as the
trees are passing out of flower, when it is difficult
lo adopt measures strong enough for their destruc-
tion without injuring the young growth ; but
as soon as these insects are noticed, no time should
be lost in syrmging the affected points with some
approved insecticide, and the trees should be
thoroughly syringed with clear soft water early
in the afternoon when the outside temperature
is fa\ourable.
The Kitchen Garden.
Herbs. — The present is a good time to make
new plantations of Mint. If single cuttings are
planted in rows a fo<5t apart and the same distance
between the plants in the row. they will soon make
good, strong plants, and will quite cover the
ground before the end of the season. Tarragon
may be treated in the same way, but should be
allowed double the space between the rows.
Thyme. — Voung seedlings should be planted
in light, rich soil and allowed a foot between
the plants each way.
Marjoram should now be sown in gentle heat.
Prick off the seedlings as soon as large enough
to handle, and grow in a slightly heated pit. When
large enough, they should be planted on a warm
border. Lift and pot in September for winter use.
Basil may also be sowti now in heat and the
seedlings transplanted as soon as large enough.
.-V warm south border should be selected for sum-
mer supplies, and a sowing made in August for
winter use.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. .JOHs- Duxx.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Brassicas. — When the seedlings are large
enough to handle, they should be pricked into a
prepared bed about four inches apart. In making
up this bed it will be %yise to put up a temporary
shelter with some rough boards, so that the young
plants can be protected for a time. A few Spruce
branches or a garden net could be used for this
purpose. One might think this a little too much
work to devote to such common things as Cabbage
or Cauliflower. At the same time, they will
well repay for the extra labour.
Vegetable Marrows. — Too often these arc grown
far too large, which renders them so coarse and
difficult to cook. Fortunately, there are small
\'arieties now on the market which come early to
maturity, and if possible have a more delicious
flavour than some of the older sorts. One has
only to try a dish of Sutton's Table Dainty to
realise how excellent Marrows are, after all. Seed
may he sown now and treated almost as one
would frame Cucumbers. They will give a good
return from a small outlay.
Growing Crops. — These will be greatly assisted
with an occasional application of nitrate of soda
sown between the Tuvis. There is no hard-and-
fast rule as to the quantity to apply, but an open
handful to every 3 yards will be a good dressing.
.\fterwards stir up the soil with the Dutch hoe.
The Flower Garden.
Half-Hardy Annuals. — Those that were sown
last month will be almost jeady to prick out,
and at this stage it is imperative that they should
be placed near the glass, whether in greenhouse
or frame. It is also important that they should
not he allowed to become dry. When it is necessary
to water the seed-pans, it is best done by standing
them in a tub containing a few inches of tepid
water. Prick out the seedlings in most cases as soon
as they can be handled, and in preparing soil
for this purpose it should t>e of a nature that roots
can cling to, so that when moved to their flowering
quarters they do not suffer much check. |
Spraying Roses. — As a preventive of mildew
on Roses, one should spray them immediately
after they have been pruned, and all the dead
leaves and rubbish cleared away. There is no
doubt that much could be done to check this
fungus by timely spraying. For many years 1
have used Bentley's Mildew Destroyer, which I
consider an excellent fungicide. WTiere, however,
this is found to be ineffectual, one might ir)-
sulphide of potassium. An ounce dissolved in
soft water would be strong enough. Apply this
with a fine spray 10 the aft'ected plants in the
evening, going over them the following evening
and syringing with clear water.
Sweet Peas. — Plants that have been grown in
pots and boxes may now be transferred to their
flowering quarters, prld of the soil, the
house should be shaded just abow tlum, when
they will very soon recover from the shift. Vine
eyes that were rooted in tur\-es may either be
planted now or left until well on in May. Main-
growers prefer doing this as late as June.
Figs. — On early trees the fruit will now be
swelling, and where the\- are confined in pot-
or built receptacles they may be given liberal
supplies of liquid manure. Constant attention
must be paid to stopping all shoots about tin-
fifth leaf to avoid overcrowding and also to assist
in swelling the fruit.
John Highgate,
(Head-gardener to the .Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopeloun Gardens, Smith Queei{sferiy, !\.B
April i8, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
1^
DAFFODIL NOTES.
Past History.' — Owing to Easter and its atten-
dant alteration of the ways of The Garden, I
cannot deal with the Royal Horticultural Society's
Show on April 7 as I otherwise would have done,
so I am taking the opportunity to dip into the
past. Yes, " to dip into tlie past," in this busy,
bustling Daffodil time, when everyone, from the
Editor downwards, is athirst for something
■' practical," or what they call practical, for this
is a word which, like some of those most judiciously
worded prayers in the Book of Common Prayer,
may mean one thing to one person and another
to another. I call the past practical for the very
simple reason that a visitor's enjoyment is always
greatly increased when the cicerone is able to talk
about the plants he is showing. Go round anyone's
garden but your own, alone— how dull ! Go
round with an owner who can tell you little more
than you may read for yourself on the labels —
how annoying ! how irritating ! On the other
hand, go with the man full of historical and " culti-
vational " information, who can tell you of the
coming of the Dalilia or the first appearance of
the Fuchsia, and talk pleasantly and banteringly
of the spelling of the one and the pronunciation
of the other — how different then is the tour nf
that garden ! We all know it.
The Daffodil gives us plenty to talk about.
" Improvement is a getting away from Nature,"
says the host. " Yes," says the visitor, " it is.
But yon——" .-Vnd so on, and so on. There
you have done it, and interesting and heated
arguments flow.
It may happen, however, that we stop before
a Challenger or a Crojsus. Without being purse-
proud — for we need not mention the fifty guineas
that those two bulbs cost us — we may talk of
prices : how " Peter Barr " actually found purchasers
at fifty pounds a bulb ; how Emperor, probably
the finest of all Daffodils, never seems to have \
been valued at that number of pence ; how the
raiser's family sold the stock of Horsfieldii for a
shilling apiece. There is much of interest to be
said of prices.
No less in bulbs than in cut flowers in the market.
My friend, Mr. William Poupart, doubtless often
looks back on the halcyon days of the past, to
the seventies when he and others — dear old James
Walker for one — began to develop this important
industry. The fear and trembling with which
he bought omatus and refused Horsfieldii were
only possible to a pioneer. Then other firms
joined in, for prices were high and alluring. Some
say now that the gamei is up and that present prices
are almost unremunerative. But from what we
have been " forced to hear," it is not played out
yet. A Napoleon comes along in the person of
Walter T. Ware, who, first of all, has the sagacity
to know a good thing when he sees it ; who,
un-
cerise and cream ; Robinella, deep claret red ;
and Apogfee, very deep golden yellow. The
size of the flowers is fair, and in most instances
they are of good shape. We congratulate Mr. van
Tubergen on his success with these charming and
fragrant flowers.
SWEET PEA NOTES.
The word itself has a derivation which so far
has baffled the understandings of the learned — . secondly, knows how to get over a poor
"affodil," perhaps, but that "big, big D" (" My sophisticated " Dutchman; who, thirdly, loiows
Garden in Spring," page 130). Why that ? Here : liow to wait ; and who, fourthly and lastly, knows
is a fine colony in some damp part of the rockwork ' liow to put flowers on the market and bulbs into
A
of the curiously shaped cyclamineus. It is an
opportunity for a digression on the old flower
traders' catalogues, with, I feel certain, not a
little monetary satisfaction. If you have it in
picture-books of a long-distant past. Some figured , your garden, you might point to Queen of the
this quaintness. Not many tens of years ago,
everyone thought it as much an effort of the
imagination as the bine Daffodil in Miss Silberrad's
interesting novel of Dutch life in the bulb districts,
"The Good Comrade." There it is in Pierre
Vallet's " Le Jardin du Roi trte Chrestien
Loys XIII." (1623), under the title Narcissus
Hyspanicus. But it became so entirely lost sight
of in gardens and in its wild habitat that no less
an authority than Dean Herbert called it '* an
impossible plant." Then, somewhere about 1886,
it was rediscovered by Mr. A. W. Tait of Oporto, to
the amazement of all.
.\nother fruitful source of conversation might
well be an ancient catalogue and the changes
which have come about in its varieties during- the
short life of the plant as a popular garden flower.
I have an early list of Messrs. Barr and Sons,
dated 1887, before me now, also one of the same
firm's of 1912. The twenty-five years' interval
has revolutionised both of them-^the flowers and
us. We have been educated, I suppose I might
say, and the flimsy perianths and the small starry
forms of the earlier hybrids, which astonished
and pleased the first Daffodillers, as, for example,
Mary, Robin Hood, Acis, John Stevenson, John
Bull, Shirley Hibberd, King Umberto and numbers
of others, are for the moderns of to-day mere
words — catalogue names suggesting nothing. And
they have been improved, we say and think.
White Lady, Noble, Evangeline, Lucifer, Black-
well, Whitewell, Olympia and Lady Margaret
Boscawen are now upon the scene. We point
them out with gusto and pride, and if we want
to digress and turn our little plot into a sort of
ancient Athenian lecture hall, a talk about " What
is improvement " will make it wondrous like.
West as a supreme example of his skill in the
masterly handling of his forces.
Possibly, however, we are seedling raisers, and
at last we are in front of some of our very own.
My eye ! How the most silent tongue can wag
them ! Only if the friend who accompanies us
is not a hybridist himself, let us be content with
generalities or broad outlines, for he will not want
to know the pedigree of this and that right away
from Backliouse and Leeds. Those details will
not interest him. Thus we might ramble on
and on, each host naturally talking of those points
and parts of Daffodil history or cultivation which
" find " him or appeal to him most. So is a
visitor's pleasure increased and his interest tickled,
and who knows but what in the end he may be
caught. Let us hope so. Surely, these are some
of the things to be aimed at in life — a pleasant
smile, an insinuating way, a good bedside manner,
an unaffected politeness, some Daffodil knowledge
and the facility of imparting it as one takes a
friend round one's garden. Joseph Jacob.
THE EDITOR'S TABLE.
New Freesias from Holland. — It is with con-
siderable pleasure that we have received from
Mr. C. G. van Tubergen, jun., Zwanenburg,
Haarlem, some of his charming new Freesias.
The colour shades of these are really wonderful, and
in some unlike anything we have ever seen before.
For instance, a variety named La Charmante
is a glorious mixture of rose, golden yellow and
apricot, that must be seen to be fully appreciated.
Amethyst is a beautiful shade of lavender blue ;
Canary, deep golden yellow ; Monette, rosy
these notes are being penned, the
glorious warm rays of the sun, the
hum of insects and the songs ol
birds kindle anew the hope that at
last spring has arrived. But what a
March ! Could the weather have
been worse ? Rain, rain, and rain again, and the
hearts of Sweet Pea growers dropped almost to
the point of despair as they beheld their soil water-
logged ; and even if the good weatlier continues,
many days must pass before the land in this
district is workable. As a strong advocate of
autumn trenching, one derives a glimmer of
satisfaction from the recent bad weather, as it
has conclusively proved the advisability of getting
the preparation of the soil done as early as poesible.
The plants have sadly suffered through lack
of sun, and those growers who have plants under
glass growing for exhibition complain of soft,
attenuated growths. The ordinary gardener whose
plants are thus suffering may help them by giving
them plenty of air, and at the same time keeping
the fires going ; but with a few days' sun and
warmth I do not think one need worry. M\
will yet be well.
What does concern many is the fact that their
seedlings are suffering in the boxes or pots and
the ground unfit for planting out. Hard as it
may seem, my advice is to wait until the soil is
in a fit condition and workable. The check
the plants are sustaining now can be minimised
by giving them plenty of air and an occasional
watering of very weak soot-water ; but you
risk total failure if you plant in wet, sticky soil,
while, to attempt to work a heavy soil when wet.
borders on madness, and its utility is nil.
Method of Planting Out. — The question of
what constitutes a check is a very controversial
one, and often too much stress is laid upon matters
of very little moment. The ideal way of raising
plants is singly in a pot, and thence to transfer
them to their growing quarters by the following
method : The day previous to the planting out
well water the plants. This enables the entire
ball of soil to be easily knocked from the pot,
when the hole which has been made by a trowel
is ready to receive it. Place the entire ball with
the plant and twigs (these supports are essential)
carefully in the hole prepared, and pr.ss the soil
well round it. Do not be afraid of making the
soil fairly solid, for Sweet Peas like a firm soil
to dwell in. The foregoing process applies to all
plants grown in pots. Many growers, however,
raise seedlings in bo.xes, and each must be carefully
separated from the other without undue injury
to the roots. " But what a check ! " says one,
and this is the controversial point. If the following
plan be adopted, there is little or no check : I
have already emphasised the fact that no planting
must be done unless the ground is in a good
working condition, and this is easily tested. Take
up a handful of soil and squeeze it in the palm of
the hand. If it becomes a sticky, wet mass,
then it is not in a fit condition for planting ; but
if it easily falls away and does not wet the hands,
when the soil is ripe for receiving the plants.
200
THE GARDEN.
[April i8, I914.
If the plants are to be grown in rows, then make
a deep drill with a spade and arrange the plants
about a foot apart along the line, cover with soil
and water in ; this enables the roots to be entirely
rovered with soil, and leaves no spaces, so to speak.
Then cover with more soil and press firmly, putting
twigs for supports. Do not use a dibber, but
always plant with a trowel. Single plants thus
treated seldom show any signs of having received
a check, and I am of the opinion that this is by
far the easiest and most successful treatment for
Sweet Peas for decorative purposes.
Sweet Peas in Tubs.— Many an amateur
laments lack of space, but a paved backyard
can be converted into a " Sweet Pea garden "
for a very small outlay. Get a few lard tubs and,
having bored holes in the bottom for a drainage
outlet, fill with good soil. Having planted the
seedlings, the Simplicitas Circle makes a fine
finish, and Sweet Peas thus gro^vn and kept well
watered and free from seed-pods will yield a
wealth of blossom for many weeks. It will be
necessar)- to give liquid manure fairly frequently
when the plants are in full flower, and an almost
daily watering with soot-water will keep the
foliage in good condition. Sweet Peas in tubs are
most effective and quite easily managed. This
method of culture should become more popular, as
the tubs can be placed in any selected spot and
add heautv where all else fails. S. M. Crow.
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
Ever;/ ({''juutinoif oj hodicuitini- is n-piemiUfd in I'Hi:
Garden, 'ind the Editor inriti's iradfrs to ^end in questions
relt/fijiif til matters upon ii-hich thri/ /ruh expert advice.
The Editor welcomes photoijraphx. articles and 7iotes,
hat he will not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where sta7npii
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.
As regards photographs, if payment be dexired. the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly nnde.rstood that only the actual photo-
graplier or owner of the copyright ivill be treated with.
The Editor ivill not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not he taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Puhlicaiion in Thk Garden will alone
be recofinised as acceptance .
Offices: :iO, Tavistock street. Covent Garden, ir.f.
TO
ANSWERS
CORRESPONDENTS.
half-a-dozen years before the flowering stage Is rpached. If
in August next you will write us again, we will give you the
necessary instructions for planting at a seasonable time.
NEGLECTED GARDEN SOIL (Sipho).—U, as you say,
" the izarden haa not been manured or attended to for
many years," nothing short of a thorough trenching and
manuring are likely to be of the least ser\ice. In such
circumstances no manure is equal to well-decayed stable
manure, which may be dug in liberally at 9 inches to
12 inches deep. You may further improve the fertility
of the soil by forking in lime at the rate of one bu!*he]
to eacli rod of ground. That miiilit be done svibsequent
to the trenching and manu-ing. .Artificial niauures
are no fitting substitutes for those of an organic nature
in such circumstances They aro serviceable, rather, as
adjuncts later on. We could only say whetiier the soil
required lightening after seeing it or a sample of it. If
heavy, as you say, lime vAl\ assist porosity, and double
tl>c above "quantity might be given for that purpose.
Ashes, i.e., coal-ashes, while assisting drainage, not in-
frequently impoverish the soil, while those from rubbish
fires are rich in potash and other salts. It will be best
to prune the newly planted Roses rather hard back this
year, and in doing so remove all weakly shoots at ground-
ievel. Some of the stronger shoots may flower this year
if left, though it is usually at the expense of a better display
later on. If the stronger shoots are well ripened, some
of these may be retained, prunintf them back about
eighteen inclies. The remainder sliould be pnined to
within six inches of the ground, to encourage good rods
for flowering next year. .\s you confess to " knowing
so very little about gardening," we may remind you tliat
we are always willing to render what a^isiptance i^ m our
power.
THE GREENHOUSE.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor intends to
make The Garden helpful to ail readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the EDITOR of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. Wfien inore than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher.
FLOWER GARDEN.
CHRISTMAS ROSES {TFror/ww).— The Giant Cluistraas
Rose (Helleborus niger maximus) is the largest-flowered of
its race ; the blooms are white, ruddy on the outside, and
appear in November. H. juverna has smaller and much
wniter flowers, which do not open before mid- January. The
plant, too, is of dwarfer growth. There are other forms,
as major " scoticus " and Mme. Foiircade.. the whole
constituting a sot valuable for successional flowering.
The better way would be to obtain plants in Septemt>er
next ; it is now too late to plant them. Seeds are very
slow to vegetate, and often take a couple of years bt^fore
the plants appear, Aft«r that, you may havi' to wait
TREES AND SHRUBS.
ALMONDS NOT FLOWERING {Dt. W. H.).— It is
probable that your Almond trees have grown too
rigorously and too late in the season to allow of the wood
becoming sufficiently ripened to produce flowers. If
your soil is naturally deficient in lime, the addition of
lime rubble to the soil will do good ; but as your trees I
are growing freely, there is no reason for applying manure.
Vou might open the ground here and there about the roots.
and cut through a few of the principal roots. Thie \vili
cause sturdier, and consequently better ripened, wood .
INFORMATION ABOUT THOMASIA SOLANACEA
{Life-long Reader).- Your surmise that the name of the
specimen enclosed is Thomasia solanacea is quite correct.
It is a native of Australia, whence it was introduced in
1803. It has been grown here ever since, but outside of
a botanic garden it is rarely met with. The reason
of this is that the flowers are not showy enough for general
decorative purposes, the standard by which nowaday:?
everything is Judged. In Cornwall, and in the milder
parts of Ireland, this Thomasia will, no doubt, succeed
out of doors. Generally speaking, however, it must be
regarded as a greenhou>;e plant. Xearly fifty years ago
there were two or three good specimens in the Temperate
House at Kew, and no doubt it is still represented there.
Cuttings of the half-ripened shoots put into sandy soil
in a propagating-case with a gentle heat ^vill root without
difficulty. It succeeds well in a mixture of loam, peat-
and sand.
INCREASING ECHEVERIA METALLICA {Quaker).—
You seem to be particularly uofortunat-e in your attempts
to propagate Echeverla metallica. It should winter well
in the temperature stated by you — 45" to 50° — during
which time the roots must be kept moderately dry, but
not parched up. It is strange that the leaves die after
they are rooted without forming a plant at the base.
Perhaps you do not strip off the leaves to their full extent.
They are best dibbled into sandy soil and placed on a light
shelf in the greenhouse or similar position. This is a very
suitable time of the year to put in leaf cuttings. Perhaps
you did yours in the autumn or winter season. We cannot
understand the reason why the old stools do not tlirow
out shoots when the tops are removed. They should
be kept almost dry and in a light, sunny spot. There yet
remains another mode of increase, and that is, if you can
grow on a strong specimen so that it flowers. If it is kept in
a sunny Greenhouse and the flowers are fertilised with their
own pollen, seeds will be produced, and, from these, young
plants can be raised in quantity. Sempervi\Tim tabul»-
forme can be increased by leaves, but not very readily.
When old plants are tall enough they may have' the tops
taken off, and the lower part of the stem will in time break
out. Besides this, suckers are sometimes available, and
seedlings may also be raised.
TREATMENT OF IMANTOPHYLLUM MINIATUM
{Olivia). — We cannot find any disease affecting the leaf
of the Imantopbyllum sent, for the old leaves often go
off in the spring just as the flowers and new growth arc
pushed up. There must, however, be something lacking
in the condition of the plants that induced them to flower
in an erratic manner last summer. This would fxilly
account for the comparative failure now. We are inclined
to think that the roots of the plant are not in a healthy
state, and this could be easily determined by turning
the plants out of their pots. If om" surmise is correct,
the main thing is to get the plants well furnished with
healthy roots. This may be accomplished by shaking
off the old soil and cutting away all unhealthy portions.
It is quite possible that the plants may, with advantage,
be put into smaller pots. In any case, they must be
repotted in a compost made up of loam, lightened by a
little peat or leaf-mould and a liberal sprinkling of silver
sand. Care must be taken that the pots are well drained
with broken crocks. After this, the plants must be
carefully watered, especially till the roots take possession
of the new soil. Established plants need to be kept
moderately moist at all seasons. Of course, more water
is required during the summer than in the winter; in fact,
at this last-named season, they may be allowed to get
fairly dry. Should the roots of your plants prove on
examination to bo quite satisfactory, we advise you to
give them a top-dressing of some suitable compost, and
I during the summer an occasional stimulant The plants
may be stood outside throughout the summer, but very
heavy rains are not henefleial to them.
MISCELLANEOUS.
SMALL WHITE WORMS (Kom«n).— The little worms
sent are known as white worms. They are somewhat
similar in structure to the earthworms, but much smaller,
and are often destructive to the roots of plants. They
may be destroyed by any of the worm-killers, or by
gi^ing the la%vn a soaking with lime-water.
BULBS FAILING {Dreamer). — Many bulbous plant-
sutl'ered greatly last seaaun owing to the dry weather thai
(iccurred during the months of May to July, and as u
consequence they have given very poor results this
season. Only one of the bulbs you sent showed damag"-
by any external agent — the Narcissus, and that wa>
attacked by bulb mites. The others had either failed tu
produce roots or root development had l)een very feeble
all through.
STARTING A MARKET GARDEN {S. £.).— A great
deal depends on the situation — nearness to a railway
station or market — warmth of soil, aspect, and labour
available in growing various crops of fruit, vegetables
or flowers. Our advice is to ascertain flrst what
is required in the neighbourhood, the means of disposal at
various times of the year, and then make your plans
accordingly. Until you have satisfied yourself that there is
a reasonable prospect of success, we do not adWse you
to invest ciipital. T'he salient point, though, in market
gardeninu is to produce crops, of whatever kind they are,
as early as possible. For instance, salads are much in
demand early in the spring; so are new Potatoes, early
Cabbaue, Mushrooms or Green Peas. The same remark
applies to Strawberries, Apples, Oirrants or Grapes ;
flowers, too, on tb(! same basis.
NAMES OF PLANTS.— Beayer.— The flower is Vel-
theiinia viridifloia; the leaf is Monsteradeliciosa. W. G.
ifallace. — Narcissus cernuus plenus. A. Cole. — Ophry^
aranifera ; Eriobotrya japonica (Loquit) ; Mvoporum
laetum. W. E. P.^1. Abutilon Savitzii : 2. Spirsea
japonica ; 3. Symphorie^rpus orbiculatus ; 4, Seoio-
pendriimi vulgare margiuato-cristatuni.
SOCI ETI ES.
DEVON DAFFODIL AND SPRING FLOWER
SOCIETY.
THK society opened its spring show in the Guildhall,
Plymouth, on April 2. It was a successful exhibition,
the competition being very keen and the flowering shrubs
quite as good as they were at Truro. The prize-list
included : Collection of twenty-four varieties of Daffodils,
flrst. Miss Clarice Vivian ; group of Daffodil seedlings
not yet in commerce, first, Mr. H. G. Hawker ; six varieties
yellow trumpet, flrst, Miss Clarice Vivian ; six varieties
bicolor trumpet, first. Miss Clarice Vivian : collection
of nine varieties spring fiowcrs, first, Mrs. Froude — Iris
tingitana in this stand was very fine and received cultural
commendation ; and six varieties spring flowers, first .
Mrs. D. M. Y'onge.
Flowering Shrubs. — Group of Rhododendrons, first, tbe
Earl of Morley ; fifteen varieties of hard-wooded tiow^ering
shrubs and climbers, first, Mr. H. W. tlrigg. who showed
Osmantlms Delavayi (first-class certificate), Prunus
spinosa fiore pleno, Ceanothus rigidus, Forsythia suspensa.
Citrus trifoliata, Prostanthera rotundifolia, Pliillyrea
decora. Erica australis, Hlicium religiosum, Grevillea
sulphurea. Prunus persica fiore pleno. Cerasus sinensis
pendula, Akebia lobata. Clematis baleariea, and ^Magnolia
soulaugeana. The competition in tiiis class was so close
that only four points divided the first, second and third
stands. Six varieties hard-wooded plants, flr.st, Jlr. T. B.
liolitho. with Gre\illea Preissi (award of merit). Clematis
indivlsa lobata, Dendromecon rigidum, Eriostemon
myoporoides. Acacia dilfusa, and Grevillea ornithopoda.
"Nurserymen's exhibits added materially to the display.
The Devon Rosery, Torquay, showed a splendid collection
of new Roses, as well as fine plants of such ramblers as
Dorothy Perkins, White Dorothy, Excelsa, Aim6e Vibert,
Edmond Proust, Blush Rambler and Leuchstem. They
also showed Amaryllis, very fine, the new Azalea Joseph
Vereane. .Vcacia cordata, A. armata, Lopezia miniata
and new Lilacs. Messrs. R. Veitch and Son, lixeter,
showed Camellia mag nolise flora, Cineraria Matador.
Grevillea longitolia, Eriostemon linearifolium, K. buxi-
follum, K. neriifolium, E. srabra, Prostanthera rotundi-
folia, Chorizema Lowii, Eutaxia myrtifolia. Magnolia
soulaugeana, M. s. nigra, M. stellata. M. conspicua, and M.
Leun6i. AJessrs. John Piper and Sons staged >' iola t^ilden
Wave, V. gracilis, V. Piper's Black, V. Dream. Veronica
diosmfefolia, Lithospermum Heavenly Blue, and a large
collection of Primulas. Mr. J. C. Martin. Truro, showed
an interesting selection of Daffodils, among which were
Great Dane, Searchlight, Artificer, Iron Duke and Rockery
Gem. Messrs. Barr and Sons gave a fine display of
Dalfodils, among these being Orangeman. Blazlug Star,
Furnace, Bloodstone, Argent, Venus, (jwendalln. Battleaxe,
and Fairy Queen,
a^fey-
GARDEN.
No. 2214— Vol. LXXVIII.
April 25, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
The Double-Flowered Sloe. — It is difficult
to understand why this charming spring-flowering
shrub is so little known. Just now its dark-
coloured branches are wreathed with snow white
' double blossoms, which make a very pretty feature
in the landscape. It forms a large shrub or
small spreading tree, and is quite as hardy as
the Sloe of our hedgerows. Its botanical name is
Prunus spinosa flore pleno.
Meconopsis Wallichii. — This lovely Poppy,
with its attractive foliage, and which produces
flowers of the loveliest pale blue
imaginable, is somewhat difficult
to manage. Sometimes it will stand
out of doors during severe weather,
vvhUe at other times it seems to
go off rather mysteriously. In the
North the plants had better be
kept in a cold frame during the
winter, and those that have to be
so treated may be planted out
now. Those who experience diffi-
culty in getting the plants to ripen
the seed sufficiently early would
do well to pot on one or two
plants and flower them in a cool
greenhouse. The same remarks
apply to the beautiful M. integri-
fnlia.
A Beautiful Prunus (P. acida
dumosa). — This exceedingly pretty
tree belongs to the Cherry family,
and, like all other members of
the group, it is referred to under
the name of Cerasus. In Japan
Cherry blossom time is marked
by national rejoicing, while in this
country the flowering of the Cherry,
including innumerable varieties,
is looked upon as the most
delightful of all seasons in the
garden or countryside. P. acida
dumosa is a variety of a European
species which flowers profusely
even at an early age. Flowering
as it does without attaining great
dimensions, it is a very desirable
tree even in a small garden. This variety is not
widely known, but it resembles All Saints' Cherry (P.
acida semperflorens), to which it is closely related.
The Rose Annual. — On another page we
publish some particulars of the Rose Annual,
the official organ of the National Rose Society.
We have no hesitation in describing this as the
best the society has ever published, and the
thanks of all rosarians are due to the Council
and the hon. secretary, who has acted as editor.
for their efforts. The Rose .Annual for 1914
is an interesting, varied and practical symposium
on Roses, and we hope all our readers will secure
and read it. That way lies the advancement of
the Rose.
A Useful Dwarf Shrub. — Pyrus Maulei is a
valuable hardy, low-growing shrub, and flowers
most profusely. It naturally assumes a neat,
bushy habit, and is at the present time covered
with its bright red flowers, which completely hide
the plant. These are followed later by large
A WELL-FLOWERED TREE OF PRUNUS ACIDA DUMOSA.
ruddy-cheeked fruits, which form a conspicuous
feature in autumn. Being from i foot to 2 feet
high, it makes a verj' attractive edging to taller
shrubs, or it may be planted on the bolder parts
of the rock garden with telling effect.
Two Beautiful Aubrietias. — When visiting
the famous rock gardens at Friar Park, Henley-
on-Thames, on Friday last, we w-ere pleased to
find Aubrietias Mrs. Lloyd-Edwards and Fire
King growing to perfection. Both were artistically
grouped in large masses between huge sandstone
boulders, and the first named was a perfect sheet
of violet blue flowers. Fire King, though not
so free with its blossoms, was, however, a charming
sight, the warm red flowers showing to perfection
when kissed by the afternoon sun. Both ought
to be grown in every rock garden where spring
flowers arc appreciated.
A Charming Golden-Leaved Plant.— Another
Aubrietia that Sir Frank Crisp grows so well on
his rock garden at Friar Park is A. aurea. Although
we do not care for most plants
with variegated foliage, an e.xcep-
tion must be made in this instance.
It would, perhaps, be more correct
to speak of it as a golden-leaved
plant, though some of the foliage
is undoubtedly variegated. How-
ever, the main colouring is soft
golden yellow, and as the flowers-
are pale mauve, the combination,
of colours is exceedingly charming.
Undoubtedly its attractiveness is
enhanced by the massing of the
plants in one large group, instead
of ! scattering them about as
isolated specimens, as is too
often done.
Spring Flowers at Hampton
Court. — The beds and borders of
spring flowers at Hampton Court
are now flowering to perfection.
In the long border, Wallflowers
Harbinger, Primrose Dame, and
Ruby Gem, the latter of a purple
hue, are all beautifuUv arranged
with a profusion of Polyanthuses
and spring bulbs. Hyacinth Car-
dinal Wiseman (pink) and Tulips
Keizerskroon, Cottage Maid and
Duchess de Parma are flowering
magnificently. The following make
very attractive beds : Tulip Rose
d',\mour and Hyacinth Grand
Blanche over a groundwork of the
purple Aubrietia Dr. Mules ; Wall-
flower Fairy Queen and Tulip
Fred Moore. What is perhaps the prettiest bed
of all is composed of Narcissus Mrs. Langtry,
Hyacinth Yellow Hammer and Tulipa clusiana,
otherwise known as the Lady Tulip. Other
good beds are Narcissus Mme. de Graaff, Tulip
MuriUo, with Aubrietia Dr. Mules ; and Tulips
Yellow Prince and Joost van Vondel (white>
with purple Aubrietia. Narcissus Queen of Spain
with Saxifrage Red Admiral make a pleasing
display when grown together.
202
THE GARDEN.
[April 25, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
The Large Narcissus Fly. — 1 should be greatly
obliged to any of your readers who, digging up
failing Narcissus bulbs at this season and finding
the larvae of the large Narcissus fly in them,
would send examples to me. — F. J. Chittenden,
The Laboratory, Royal HorlicuUural Society's
Gardens, Wisley, Ripley, Surrey.
Daffodils with Lasting Qualities.— I should
very much like to know if any of your readers
find any difference in the lasting qualities of Daffo-
dils in bloom. This year I grew (in soil) bulbs of
Victoria in a box and Mme. van Plemp in flower-
pots. The latter were admirable, and the flowers
kept in splendid condition much longer than the
former. My accommodation for bulb-growing is
extremely limited (one window), so that space
is begrudged to bulbs that are quickly over ; and
a " wait and see " policy could be dispensed
with if some of the readers of The G.irden would
enlighten me as to which Daffodils and Tulips
are the " best lasters." In Tulips I found White
Pottebakker continued to bloom longer than
Grace Darling. Three pots of Prince of Austria
are superb. There can be nothing better in
TiJips. Colour, carriage, and a delicate Primrose
scent are some of their charms. An amateur
naturally wishes to try something new every
year, and a guide as to lasting qualities would
be invaluable. — M. E. E.
Dahlia imperialis on the Riviera. — I was
very much interested by your notes on this most
famous plant in The Garden for December 20,
1913. It certainly is very much admired by all
in this part of the Riviera. 1 am sending you
a photograph of a very fine specimen grown in
the garden of Miss Kay-Shuttleworth. It is over
fourteen feet high, and shoots forth from the
ground in May and grows rapidly until flowering-
time in November. It needs a stiff loamy soil,
copious supplies of water, and plenty of manure,
and will do well facing due south, protected on the
north-east against cutting cold wmds. — George
Parish, Chalet Ponente, San Remo, Italy. [Un-
fortunately, the photograph sent by our corre-
spondent was not suitable for reproduction ; it
showed a very fine plant. — Ed.]
Sparrows and Spring Flowers. — Re the notes
which have appeared dealing with this subject
in The Garden under dates March 7 and 21,
also April 11, I venture to draw the atten-
tion of the writers of those notes to an article
in the Country-side, " Sparrows and Crocuses,"
by Mr. E. Kay Robinson, the well-known
naturalist. Mr. Robinson says a careful
■examination seems to show that the birds
are after the stamens of the Crocus, the anthers
of ivhich have some nutritive value, while the
juicy tissues of some flowers and stems may be
pleasant to eat also. Coming from such a careful
investigator and acknowledged authority, I
think these conclusions are weighty, and should
be recorded for the benefit of all readers of The
Garden. This season, for the first time with us,
the sparrows have bitten off several heads of
Muscari Heavenly Blue, leaving them near by.
Also the just opening flowers of a double mauve
Primrose recently put in the rockery were nipped
off and left beside the plant, while last year they
disfigured several Polyanthus spikes before we
noticed them — both coloturs, but chiefly the yellow
shades. How they mutilate the quite young
leaves of the border Carnation when they push
forth in early spring is well known. Apparently
here it must be the juicy tissues that are the
attraction. In each and every case the best
deterrent so far known is a few strands of black
cotton. — C. T., Highgate.
Established Bulbs of Chionodoxa. — In regard
to your note on page 178 of April 11 issue, I cannot
agree with Mr. Negus about Chionodoxa sardensis
being at its best in its first season. I have grown
it and C. Lucilise for ten years here, and each year
they have increased in growth and produce better
flowers than when first planted. — B. C. Sykes,
Borrobol, Kinbrace, Sutherland, N.B.
My experience with Chionodoxas agrees with
yours. No newly planted bulbs, be they ever
so fine, give such good results as established bulbs.
With these the flowers are individually larger,
and are much more numerous on the spikes. I
find that they do best when planted rather deeply,
not less than 6 inches. Self-sown seedlings
eventually descend to that depth, and frequently
deeper. The soil here is stiff loam on clay. —
A. D. Fort, Steepholm, Slades Hill, Enfield.
I am at one with Mr. Negus in my dislike
of loose colour descriptions, and often wish that
there was some generally recognised standard
of nomenclature, but I cannot understand why
he objects to the term " Gentian blue " as applied
to the tint of Chionodoxa sardensis. Perhaps
he will tell us what he calls it, or how he would
define it. To me it seems very appropriate.
Again, with regard to newly planted bulbs being
equal in vigour and floriferousness to those well
established, I may say that I have bought a
large number from both English and foreign
sources for the last twenty years, and mj'
experience is that it is only on those rare occasions
which prove the rule that Chionodoxas, when
they flower for the first time after being planted,
are equal to those old-established plants which
give me good, sturdy spikes of 9 inches to 12 inches
in length, bearing anything between ten and
sixteen blooms. Perhaps Mr. Negus is oji/y
thinking of what he bought last autumn when
he says, " I have a few hundreds, planted last
autumn, which are vastly superior in flower to
my established clumps." It is rather curious
that my bulbs, which were newly planted last
autumn, have flowered this spring with altogether
exceptional vigour ; but this is not the rule. —
Joseph Jacob.
The Improvement of Garden Roses. — There
is much to be said in favour of the improvement
of what are termed " garden Roses," but to do
this there are many obstacles in the way. First,
how are garden Roses to be defined ? Some of
the finest exhibition varieties are also excellent
sorts for the garden. Take Gloire de Chedane
Guinoisseau, one of the best of exhibition sorts,
and certainly most valuable in the garden. The
growth is vigorous, compact, and the freely
produced blooms upon an ordinary bush plant
are certainly decorative and suitable for any
garden. Take, again. Dr. Grill as a bush or a
standard. No Rose in the garden is more appre-
ciated for cutting for the house, and no Rose of
less value for the exhibitor. Take, again, Mrs.
Edward Powell, a newer type, remarkable for
its rich colouring, robust growth, freedom and
continuity of flowering right into October. As a
garden Rose none is more appreciated. It is
most difficult to define a garden Rose apart from
an exhibition variety, I think we shall find
Mme, Edouard Herriot one of the best of garden
Roses, but doubtful as an exhibition variety.
I really do not think much fault can be fomid
with the awards of the National Rose Society,
when we consider what a large number of sorts
are yearly placed before the committee. Those
gaining an honourable distinction in the past
have as a whole fully borne out the justice of the
award. What I think is carried to excess is the
enormous number of new varieties sent out yearly,
especially by some firms. So many are nearly
alike that we do not require all that are put upon
the market ; but how is the amateur to dis-
criminate when nothing but a catalogue description
to guide him is available ? Some suggest a national
trial garden for all new varieties. That scheme
is not likely to come to pass ; it is much too slow
for the present day. If a promising new varietv
is introduced, the amateur wants it at once, as
there is so much charm in watching the develop-
ment of new sorts with a high reputation. 1
think if nurserymen would send out fewer new
sorts annually, giving them a further test, the
public would have more confidence and be inclined
to purchase more freely. Personally, I do not
think very drastic steps are needed in the method
of recognising desirable new warietics of garden
Roses. — E. M.
A discussion of this subject is certain
to appeal to a very wide circle of your readers,
and it is to be hoped that some valuable sugges-
tions may result. Though keen amateur rosarians
may by " elimination of undesirables get what
they want," it seems to me that this method,
involving as it does expense, waste of time and
disappointment, has little to be said in its favour,
particularly in the case of those enthusiasts whose
means and space are limited. Your correspondent
Mr. Taylor points out on page 171 issue April 4
that the system under which awards for show
Roses are granted is useless applied to garden
or decorative Roses, and it is here, I think, that
a strong appeal should be made to our National
Rose Society to formulate some scheme for " hall-
marking " such of the new Roses found to excel
in those desirable qualities enumerated bv " White
Rose." Form and colour arc details quite readily
picked up at the shows ; but three points to
which I attach special importance, viz., freedom
of bloom, behaviour as a cut-back, and healthiness
of foliage, can only be correctly judged by extended
trial. To take a casein point. That very beautiful
Rose Queen Mary, Mr. H. E. Mol^Tieux, whose
criticisms of the newer Roses are so highly appre-
ciated, appears to have fallen a willing victim
to its charms, and yet, judging solely by the plants
on view when it was awarded the gold medal last
July, neither its growth nor its beauty of foliage
appears to be a marked feature of merit. (Mr.
Molyneux does not refer to either point in his
appreciation.) There are, I am sure, many
rosarians who prefer to see their Roses in the
garden, and it is there that healthy, ample and
handsome foliage is absolutely essential to bring
out the fullest beauty of the bloom. Those
varieties subject to defoliation, mildew. Sec.
cannot be considered good garden Roses. 1
venture to suggest that if a distinctive award
for decorative Roses only could be instituted —
the points to be taken into account being form,
colour, fragrance, growth and freedom as a
cut-back, quality and amplitude of foliage — such
an award would stamp a Rose as of outstanding
merit for garden purposes, and be accepted by
amateur rosarians with implicit confidence. — H.
Stevenette, Wanstead, N.E.
April
19140
THE GARDEN.
203
Camellia reticulata Flowering Outdoors. —
Some of your readers may like to know that
after four years from planting I picked on Good
Friday some lovely blooms of Camellia reticulata
grown in tlie open ground in peat soil, and with no
covering during the winter. — Alfred C. Lever,
Saltwood, Kent.
Preserving Stone. — On page 188 of your
issue of April 11 I notice under " Answers to Corre-
spondents " a reply to " E. F. O." The Bath
stone lirms of Bath sell a chemical called (I believe)
Fluate, which has the virtue of hardening
some kinds of stone, and this will
probably supply your correspondent's
need. I so much enjoy The Garden
that I shall be glad if this informa-
tion is of any use to you. — Percy C.
Webb.
Coronilla glauca Growing Out-
doors.— It may not be generally known
that the old sweet-scented Coronilla
glauca that is grown in the greenhouse
will thrive and do better planted out in
the garden in a warm situation. I
was looking round a garden the other
day, and saw two plants of C. glauca
growing on a warm south border. The
gardener told me he planted them out
about two years ago. They certainly
looked the picture of health, and
appeared to enjoy their open position.
I noticed the plants were smothered with
the pretty yellow, fragrant flowers, and
the bees were busy about them. I
thought what a contrast to the starved
condition we often see them in the
greenhouse. — W. Driver, Stonehouse.
[This plant does well outdoors in many
districts. — Ed.]
Cold Stor^e for Roses. — Regarding
this, " Danecroft," on page 167, issue
April 4, is hardly correct in stating
that American florists cold store Roses.
All the United States florists have ice-
boxes— really, large glass-sided coolers
— for keeping flowers during the hot
weather ; but actual cold storing for an
indefinite period is not possible. Prior
to certain flower days, of which there
are many in America, some growers
and wholesale florists do hold up part
of their supply for two or three days ;
but these " pickled " Roses and Carna-
tions arouse great hostility. Retailers
who get hold of such stock quickly
discover the fact^ for the blooms soon
collapse when exposed to the ordinary
temperature. I venture to hazard
that chilled Roses would soon be ^ i^'EV
asleep if staged at a summer show. —
T. A. W.
How to Trap Slugs. — I am sure everyone
with a garden where the soil is heavy is plagued
with slugs this year, and just at present they are
increasing very rapidly. I have tried Orange
peel, patent traps, slices of Turnip, and Cabbage
leaves. All are good, but cover far too small
an area. I have now begun on a large scale
to trap them by means of an old wet sack thrown
on to the seed-bed at night, and either bran or a
little flour sprinkled under it. Every kind of
horror from the soil is revealed in the morning.
Wireworms hurry down their holes, woodlice
curl into balls ready to be caught, and slugs and
worms lie on the sack, and can be shaken out
in the chicken run. ---Ethel Case, Biskoft's
Waltham Chase.
A Beautiful Hardy Plant.— To those who
intend adding to their list of hardy plants, I
should like to mention CEnothera Arendsii, a
lovely subject for the rockery or border. We
grew it last year for the first time. It proved
a most useful and continuous plant to flower
from June to October, with pretty rose pink
flowers. It can be easily propagated from cut-
tings, and it came through this winter without
protection. It prefers a warm, sunny border.
ROSE-GROWING IN TOWN
GARDENS.
VARIETY OF THE PURPLE-LEAVED PLUM,
PISSARDII BLIRIEANA FLORE PLENO.
I am of the opinion that it would be very useful
as a pot plant. — M. Nicholls, Kemsing, Kent.
FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
April 29. — National Auricula and Primula
Society's (Midland Section) Show at Birmingham
(two days). Perpetual Flowering Carnation
Society's Spring Show at Bournemouth (two
days). Royal Caledonian Horticultrural Society's
Spring Show (two days).
April 30. — Manchester and North of England
Orchid Society's Meeting.
May 2. — Soci^te Fran^aise d' Horticulture de
Londres Meeting.
SOME NOTES ON ARRANGEMENT.
NEATNESS and order iu a garden
denote the careful cultivator, who
will keep his plants clean and give
them every opportunity to do well.
But the benefits obtained from the
exercise of taste in arrangement
are beyond anything that mere tidiness can secure.
Some amateur Rose-growers, whose chief
hobby is the exhibition of their blooms,
like to model their gardens upon the same
lines as the nurserymen. The latter find
it convenient to marshal their plants in
formal rows ; but the amateur is plant-
ing for permanent effect, aP-d surely it
is best to make the appearance of tlie
garden worthy of its productions.
In a small garden the ideal is naturally
harder to attain, and it requires a certain
amount of ingenuity to overcome the
primness that is inevitable if one follows
out the straight lines of the boundary in
the design. Paths need not invariably
be straight, beds may be fashioned into
shapes that will help to avoid stiffness,
and arches, pergolas or screens can be so
placed as to secure effect without ob-
structing the outlook or apparently
diminishing the size of the garden. These
are points which need to be considered
separately in relation to each individual
case, and an arrangement that appeals to
one may merely irritate another, so that
it is w^ell for each individual to be the
surveyor of his own domain. The most
natural and effective setting for Rose-
beds is a lawn. Grass walks between
give the beds a better finish, though they
nxvolve a certain amount of extra work
m cutting and edging. Moreover, the
beds should be sunk slightly below the
surrounding level, and this is more
easily effected in a lawn than elsewhere.
Colour schemes are well enough m a
large and well-ordered establishment,
but the town gardener usually finds them
outside the range of practicability.
Nevertheless, it is possible to avoid
glaring errors of taste. It is with the red
Roses that most care is needed, as it is
m these that the clashing of colours
mostly occurs. Scarlet tints, as in Cap-
tain Hayward, are perhaps the most
difficult for which to find suitable com-
panions, and they should never be placed
close to crimson or deep rose pink shades.
Salmon pink and rose pink varieties
should also be kept separate. Even in the
lighter colours each kind needs to harmonise
with its neighbour if it is to appear at its best.
To be able to identify all the trees readily is
an obvious necessity, and labels have many draw-
backs. They are always more or less imsightly.
If fastened to the trees, they are apt to damage
the growths ; if placed in the ground, to get in
the way of the hoe. The most satisfactory method
is to make a rough plan of each bed, marking the
names of the Roses as they are planted. Keen
gardeners will find such plans add considerably
to the joys of anticipation before their blooms
appear. A rough sketch can be made very
PRUNUS
204
THE GARDEN.
[April 25, 1914.
quickly, but many will like to elaborate it at
leisure.
Care is needed in placing screens, pergolas or
I ither long and lofty arrangements, which frequently
make a small garden look still more diminutive.
\ pergola should lead from one part of a garden
to another ; but it may also be made to form
the entrance to the garden, and this is often the
most convenient place for it where the latter is
of small extent. It should not be placed across
a short garden or down the centre of a narrow one.
Sometimes it is difficult to know where to plant
the climbing Roses so that they show to the best
advantage. Pillars are always effective, are
easily constructed, and do not take
up too much room. They might
often be made of more use. A
row of these along the back (i.e.,
the north or west side) of the Rose-
beds will always be admired,
and so placed they will not be
depriving the other Roses of
sunshine. P. L. Goddard.
that used to be thrown at the Hybrid Teas
for the paucity of crimson and scarlet varieties
will soon be removed, especially when we
have other raisers also working on these lines.
Messrs. Hugh Dickson's Brilliant will also be a
fine triumph of colour. A mass of it at Belmont
last July was as effective as a bed of Geranium
Paul Crampel.
It is a great advance to obtain Roses such as
Red-letter Day, which combine vigour of growth
with a free-blooming habit. There are many
Roses free in growth, and in some respects too
free, but they do not yield a corresponding amount
of bloom
TWO NEW HARD-WOODED
PLANTS.
An Exquisite Semi-Double Prunus. — As
described in our last issue imder " New and Rare
Plants," page 196, Prunus Pissardii blirieana
flore pleno is a very beautiful plant, and quite
distinct from the double form of the type. The
branches are long and slender, with purple-tinted
leafage, while the flowers are of a warm apple
blossom pink and semi-double. It is a charming
COLOURED PLATE.
PLATE 1492.
ROSE RED LETTER DAY.
THE beautiful decora-
tive Hybrid Tea group
will be immensely
strengthened by the
addition of this brilliant
Rose. I shall not soon
forget the fine colour effect pro-
duced by a mass of Red-letter
Day upon my visit to New-
towuards last July. What a
colour, and what a grower ! It
seemed to tower above every
i>ther Rose as far as effective dis-
play was concerned. The flowers
.ire semi-double, and its velvety,
brilliant scarlet crimson buds and
fully opened Cactus-like petals
never fade, as the reflex of the
petals is satiny crimson scarlet,
absolutely free from blue or
magenta. This is a great gain,
for everyone knows the bluish tint
of the expanded flowers of such as
Marquise de Salisbury is a great
fault from a decorative point of
view. There is a specially refined
growth with Red-letter Day, and,
as I said, it is splendidly vigorous.
Moreover, it is festooned with
bloom the whole of the flowering
season. I can foresee the day
when this beautiful novelty will
be massed in huge quantities, for it is just
the Rose we have been waiting for. Those
who have had to make Rose gardens know
only too well the difficulty of supplying good,
brilliant colours to compare with the paler and
golden shades, and I fear many have resorted
to the old Hybrid Perpetuals because of their
splendid colours, only to throw them out for
their lack of decorative effect. Messrs. A. Dickson
and Sons seem to have produced a most wondrous
strain of free-flowering decorative Roses of brilliant
colouring, for I saw many others that were being
worked up, and I feel sure the reproach
variety, valuable both for the decoration of tables
One cannot well use such Roses as 1 and vases, and for garden effect in early spring.
Clematis Armandii. — ^The ex-
ceptionally high award of a first-
class certificate was recently
bestowed upon this Clematis bv
the Royal Horticultural Society.
It is a hardy and very free-
flowering climber of strong growth.
A description of this Chinese
species appeared in our last issue,
page 196. The pure white flowers
are borne in axillary clusters early
in the season. As this species
combines hardiness with other
good qualities, it is a great ac-
quisition to the genus, and will
certainly be widely grown in the
near future. The plant illustrated
was shown by the Hon. Vican;-
Gibbs, Aldenham House, Elstree,
Herts.
CLEMATIS ARMANDII, A NEW HARDY SPECIES FROM CHINA. THE
FLOWERS ARE WHITE.
Hugh Dickson or J. B. Clark as bedders, and
Griiss an Teplitz is most embarrassing in its
growth, so that all who have had this difficulty
to contend with will doubly welcome Red-letter
Day.
The gardening profession knows no politics,
but I am sure all readers will desire that
by the time Red-letter Day is introduced in
June, its advent may witness a real red-
letter day in Ulster, its home, in that peace
with honour will be acclaimed by all parties
in that lovely portion of a very beautiful
country. Danecroft.
YELLOW GLADIOLL
Of the newest kinds of Gladioli,
the yellows are, perhaps, most
attractive, and though their prices
are as yet a trifle high, they are well
worthy of a place in every collec-
tion. Of lemon colours I foimd
Niagara most dainty and charming,
but it is easily affected by the acid,
sooty nature of our atmosphere
(near Glasgow). Canary Bird 1
grow also, but last season it did not
succeed well for some imac-
countable reason, although I had
previously found it a very fine
variety. Glory of Noordwijk is a
magnificent flower, and of the first
order as an exhibition bloom.
The tint is a distinct chrome yellow
that shows up well in a group and
stands clear for a long'time. I have
no hesitation in placing it first
among all the yellow varieties.
Golden Measure, one of Messrs.
Kelway's introductions, is a good
second in the class of ordinary
yellows, and as it is easier and cheaper to obtain, it
may be more generally grown. It makes a fine
spike for an exhibition group, and stands out promi-
nently in a harmonious blending of tints on ac-
count of its purity and brightness. Yellow Beauty
and Golden Girl are both stately and distinct
yellow varieties. They succeed very well in
Northern gardens. Of deep yellows with a
decided orange tint there are two. Golden
West and Sunset, both without rival in
this class. Enthusiasts will find the above
varieties among the very choicest and most
charming kinds. Craioielea.
Supplement to THE GARDEN, April 25M, 1914
NEW ROSE:
"Red Letter Day."
Ihidsoii & Kcarns, Ltd.. Printers, Loitdon, S E.
April 25, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
205
SEASONABLE NOTES ON
WATER AND WATER-SIDE
PLANTS.
Thinning Out Dense Growth. — The season
may now be said to have fairly arrived when pro-
ceedings may be talcen either to renew and replenish,
■or to thin out such as are growing too luxuriantly.
There is a considerable degree of tendency in
the latter direction with such of the stronger
Nymphaeas and other robust growers from among
the many aquatic plants. These, if not occasionally
thitmed out, will exceed all reasonable bounds.
In doing this the flowers of many Nymphseas
are really not seen at all, these being hidden under
the mass of foliage ; such, for instance, as N.
-Marliacea chromatella, N. M. rosea, N. M. albida,
N. Colossea and N. Moorei. These are all
vigorous growers, and often push up a dense
mass of leafage well above the water.
In rearranging such as these I have
often pushed them out into deeper
water, where they have done well. As
much as 6 feet of water over them
is none too much where they are
tliriving well.
.\11 that one has to do just now is,
tirst, to secure one or two pairs of
waterproof waders, such as fishermen
use in salmon and other rod fishing.
Equipped with these, one can wade
into a depth of 3 feet 6 inches of
water safely enough, if needs be. It
is advisable to lower the water, how-
ever, to a foot or so of the crowns.
Then, with a good spade first to cut or
divide the plants, and then one or two
digging forks by widch to lift them
out of the mud, it is easy to secure
strong divisions. These, as soon as
possible, should be placed into ordi-
nary nursery rounds, such as those
seen in one of the illustrations.
There is nothing better than tliese
for re-establishing the plants after
division. Secure baskets that
are large enough for the purpose ;
then place a layer of last season's
leaves at the bottom, and upon
that some good turfy loam and road
grit or river sand. On this place
the lifted plants, with the crowns in
all probability above the level of the
top of the basket ; then fill in all the interstices
with the same kind of soil, making it all fairly
firm. It will then be necessary to pass over some
stout tarred string to keep the plant in position,
otherwise a plant will float away of its own accord
after being replaced in the water. By so doing,
all then will be secure until the roots once more
establish themselves in the mud. Wlien baskets
are not available, the divisions may be placed
where they are to remain, being either pegged
or otherwise weighted dow^n to prevent them
from iioating, some good soil being used as in the
baskets. The baskets, I might add, can be pulled
out into deeper water by passing a cord through
the handles of the baskets and thus pulling them
to their position ; then the cord can be slipped
out if it is double. In this way it is an easy
matter to place them in 6 feet of water.
Some to be Let Alone. — When a plant is doing
well and not overcrowded, by all means let well
alone. Of course, if the water is lowered to
attend to the larger and denser masses, it is just
as well to place some good soil around these.
Perhaps also a crown may be seen to be extending
over the sides of a basket that was put in at some
previous time. In such a case cut away the
basket and pack up soil to attract fresh root
action outside. Personally, I prefer old rather
than new nursery rounds ; these latter will often
last sound too long for the real good of the plants.
Other Water Plants. — It will be noted in the
illustration, to which I have already referred,
that the water-side plants that grow in the shallow
portion next to the edge are cut down. This
is as it should be at this season of the year. It
will now soon be a dense mass of growth again.
Some such plants — as Tj'^pha latifolia, Glyceria
aquatica and Acorns Calamus — often grow much too
freely and become too dense. Now is the time
to thin these down with an unsparing hand.
Many of the smaller-growing aquatic or sub-
will thrive well. What we have done is to raise
the soil in the water sufficiently high to plant
them in this way ; first, by placing brick rubble
in the water up to its level, then filling in with
some clinkers and ashes so that one can walk
upon it without getting wet. Upon this the soil
is placed and the plants put in straight away.
Senecio Clivorum does well in the same position ;
so also do the Guuneras. By this method it is
obvious that the roots percolate to the water
and thus sustain themselves. To prevent the soil
immediately in contact with the water from being
washed away, it is well to place some rough pieces;
of tufty grass next to the edge. The effect of
such groups as these when backed up by Bamboos
is most pleasing and appropriate.
Some Other Aspects. — Water gardening, when
carried out in a judicious manner and with due
regard to the surroundings, is most , effective ;
such as that, for instance, in the larger illustration
A WELL-GROWN SEEDLING WATER LILY.
aquatic plants require attention almost every
spring to keep them as they should be. Myosotis
palustris always, to my way of tliinking, thrives
better the first season after transplanting. Buto-
mus umbellatus may remain for two or three
years ; then it will get too thick. Caltha palustris
should be divided every other season. It is now
just coming into flower with us. It ought to
be much more extensively grown than it is, being
very showy and lasting in flower for such a length
of time. Trollius europa3us is now in flower.
If it needs division, wait until the flowering is
over. Aponogeton distachyou may be trans-
planted at almost any season. It grows so freely
and soon becomes re-established.
Other Water-side Plants. — Of these there are
several most useful and highly ornamental subjects ;
for instance, the newer hybrid Astilbes, such as
A. Ceres, A. Venus, A. rubella and A. grandis.
If the soil in which these are planted is from
6 inches to i foot above the usual water-level, they
that accompanies this article. In the season
the effect would be very fine ; infinitely better,
in my opinion, than any set design of flower
beds. Here it will be also noted that the process
of thinning out has been carried on, and by the use
of the boat. One or two clumps in the foreground
are showing indications of thinning out being
required. In the illustration on this page an
individual plant is depicted in good condition.
This might require some such attention in a
year or two. By the numerous letters of enquiry-
respecting Water Lilies that reach me from time
to time, I find that many still continue to use
wooden tubs for their cultivation. Notliing, in my
opinion, is more irrational than this practice. It
necessarily follows that the soil within these tubs be-
comes in time in a filthy, stinking condition, totally
unfit for Nymphaeas, mud-lovers though they be.
My advice is to never use tubs on any account.
By this I mean- a tub that is sunk under the
water for aquatic plants. Neither do I, in the
206
THE GARDEN.
[April 25. iqi4.
reprinted in The Garden lor
December 6, 1913.
Other Enemies. — I must not
lengthen this article by more than
referring to the other enemies of the
Narcissus — the swift moth (Hcpialus
lupinus), as to which see Mr. H. R.
Darlington's able article in the Royal
Horticultural Society's Journal,
November, igog ; basal rot, if indeed
it be, in fact, a specific disease, and
not merely the outcome of other
causes ; yellow stripe, rust, eelworm,
slugs, &c. A good deal might usefully
be said about each of these, and,
looking at the status which the Nar-
cissus has achieved in the world of
horticulture, and to the immense
number of people now interested in.
the matter, the " Enemies of the
Narcissus " would seem to be a fitting,
subject for a full consideration in the
coming Royal Horticultural Society's-
" Daffodil Year Book" for 1914-
Nothing could be more useful. Per-
haps the editor, the Rev. J. Jacob,
will give this his consideration.
Foot 's Cray. Charles E. Shea.
DAFFODIL NOTES.
THE BASKETS SHOWN ABOVE CONTAIN WATER LILIES AND ARE PLACED IN POSITION FOR PLANTING
construction of rockwork, advise that pockets be
prepared for water plants ; these are equally as bad.
If baskets are not used, the next best thing is to
use loose bricks to keep the soil in its place.
New Water Lilies.— Of these there are a few
most promising varieties that will be distributed
this season. These are N. Neptune, of which
the growth is described as being moderate, with
flowers from 6 inches to 7 inches in diameter, and
in colour white shaded with rose ; N. Gonndre,
best described as an improvement upon N. tuberosa
Richardsonii, the colour white with the outer
sepals shaded with green ; and N. Rene Gerard,
evidently one of the most robust growers and
with flowers some 9 inches in diameter — the colour
is given as bright rosy crimson. Of those first sent
out last year, the best are N. Fabiola, pink and
white ; and N. Gloire du Temple-sur-Lot, which
is a grand novelty, with a great multiplicity of
petals, as many as 100 such having been counted.
Two others are N. Picciola and N. Sirius.
James Hudson, V.M.H,
Gunneisbury House, Acton, W.
THE ENEMIES OF THE
NARCISSUS.
{Continued from page T92.)
The Well-Known Narcissus Fly (Merodon
equestris).— About this little new has to be
said. The weight of authority seems to show
that the initial point of attack, wherever the
eggs may chance to be deposited, is at the
base of the bulbs, and there the grubs in their
earliest stage must be looked for. How very easily
the grub in this stage may be overlooked is
evidenced by the fact that, some years ago, the,
I think, leading authority upon the subject, Mr.
P. D. Williams, sent to the Rev. W. Wilks twelve
bulbs of Narcissi for examination ; but the presence
of the grub was not recognised. However, the
bulbs were planted in pots, and, later on, were
produced to the Narcissus committee of the
Royal Horticultural Society, when no fewer
than eleven out of the twelve were foimd to contain
the larvae of the Merodon equestris. Mr. Williams
has demonstrated that the earliest presence of
the larva can sometimes onlj^ be detected by
the presence, at the base of the bulb, of " a
tiny hole no larger than the head of a small
pin." Professor Ritzema Bos has stated
that soaking the bulbs in water before plant-
ing, for one, or, better, two days, will destroy
most of the grubs, and, although this is disputed
by some, it should be tried, as it does not injure
the biflbs. I mean to submit all future new
piurchases, of expensive bulbs especially, to a
season's quarantine away from the main bulb
borders ; and we are being driven to the conclusion
that yearly lifting and replanting has become an
actual necessity. Now we come to another,
and perhaps the most serious, as it is the most
insidious, enemy which afSicts the Narcissus,
namely, the parasitic fungus known as
Fusarium bulbigenum. — Little known in this
coimtry until the last few years, although it has
existed in Holland for some considerable time,
this fmigus has assumed such proportions
that, according to the statement of growers on
a large scale, " entire plots of bulbs have been
destroyed." This fmigus is propagated by spores
cast into the air, and also by mycelium in the
ground. One does not want to be unduly alarmist,
but, when such evidences of widespread destruction
are brought before us by authority, it is clear that
growers of the Narcissus must be on their guard.
All available information as to this pest can
be found in the Kew Bulletin. No. 8, 1913,
VINCENT SQUARE,
APRIL 7.
Daffadowndilly was in town.
Here, there and everywhere, all over the
hall, 1 kept meeting her. She regularly seemed
to dominate the show. There were certainly
twelve large groups, without counting small
oddments scattered up and down in com-
posite collections. I have no fewer than
seventeen varieties down in my notes as having
been brought before the Narcissus committee,
and I am not sure that I have not omitted one Or
two of the unfortunates who were " passed,"
which is the usual ofl&cial formula uttered by the
chairman to signify imsuccessful candidature for
honours. Seedlings, especially yellow trumpets,
naturally were a very conspicuous feature ; in
fact, I think they were a little overdone. After
all, the general gardener wants something where-
with he can ornament his garden, and a single
bulb or a small stock of four or five, let us say,
does not go far — except, more than likely, in
depleting his purse, for such luxuries are like the
first plovers' eggs on the market, decidedly
expensive. Hence I welcome such an exhibit
as that of Suttons, which displayed in an attractive
manner many of the more ordinary varieties
which we specialists are apt to ignore and forget.
Those who more or less come under the catcgorj'
are relatively only a small number, and it is among
these alone that there is any considerable demand
for the higher-priced novelties.
If I appear somewhat to discount what I have
just said by now writing mainly from a show point
of view, it is only because I consider catalogue
time a more convenient and useful one for dis-
cussing the merits and demerits of " stock "
kinds. I am writing these notes at the home of
Mr. W. F. M. Copeland at Shirley, which is a
suburb of Southampton, and where a very cursorj-
trot round a large, old-fashioned garden soon
showed me that he is as keen on seedling-raising
here as he was at his old home near Stone, and
April 25, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
207
that we are about to have Shirley Daffodils as
we already have Shirley Poppies. I wish all his
great range of doubles — Vulcan, Gollywog, Rags
and Tatters, Whirligig, &c. — had been raised
here; "Shirley Doubles" would have been so
handy and euphonious a title.
Royal Sovereign, which gained an award of
merit, is one of his latest productions. It is of
meditun size and loosely built, after the style of
Argent. The perianth is white, and the pale lemon
corona is not so divided or spread about as is
usual. It gives the idea of a lot of short bits
bunched, and then opened out at the top and caught
together at the bottom. It is a cross between
Minnie Hume and Telamonius plenus.
Tintoretto, another new double, with deep
primrose and orange red colouring, was among
those which kept it company on Messrs. Cart-
wright and Goodwin's stand. It is another even
more loosely built bloom, with many bits of
primrose perianth in evidence round and among
the red-edged, deep orange, broad and boldly
split corona. As I journeyed down here in the
train, I thought of all the wealth of flowers that
had passed under my review during the day, and
tried to single out the best. When the time came
for gathering up our belongings, I had come to
the conclusion that Crystalline, Florist's Favourite,
White Maximus, Vauban, The Marquis, Maid of
Honour, Vacuna and (to include an older one)
Midas were certainly not to be omitted ; so perhaps
I had better, without more ado, proceed to describe
them.
Crystalline (R. H. Bath) is a pure white
Leedsii of the long, rather narrow segmented
type, with a delicate-looking cup of narrow
diameter, fringed or fluted at the top in such a
wa3' that I was reminded of The Fawn. It is
not very often that I see a flower that I like so
much, and I do not wonder that the tiny stock is
to be " grown on " before any bulbs sold out to
the public. Dimensions, A. la Sydenham :
3 J inches x (li inches x i|- inches) x (ij inches x
seven-eighths of an inch).
Florist's Favourite, a transfer from Dinton, was
on Mr. Bourne's stand, and although it was sur-
rounded on its circular dais by such beauties as
Queen of Hearts, Bernardino and The Earl (yellow
Ajax), it seemed to stand there like a king among
them, ready to receive the homage of delighted
florists. It is a rich deep yellow bloom, with a
stiff, flat, widely segmented perianth, which is set
at right angles to the trumpet, which in turn is
short,, wide and nicely recurved at the brim. It is
well named, for it is a very " fioristy " flower, and
is bound to be a favourite among the show
fraternity. Size : \\ inches x (r J inches x
ijj inches) x (ij inches x 2 inches).
White Maximus (W. T. Ware) features in its
general appearance its well-known namesake,
although if each part were to be taken separately
and compared, there would be found many differ-
ences in detail. It is a loosely built, large and
long stalked pale bicolor trumpet. Although of
ample width, the segments are long and pointed,
with a graceful twist in three of them. The
trumpet looks longer than it really is, owing, I
think, partly to it not being over wide in diameter
and partly to the arrangement of the petals, which
allows one to see its whole length so clearly and
easily. Size : 4f inches x (r-J inches x if inches)
X (r| inches x 2 inches).
Vauban (Wilson) is an exceedingly fine, hand-
some, deep yellow giant incomparabilis, raised by
the exhibitor himself. The large, somewhat
straight-looking cup is a decided orange yellow,
and is distinguished by the wide scalloping of its
brim. The broad, stiff petals are a little turned in
at their very edge. This is a feature which seems
to be " coming along," but which, just at present,
is uncommon. It is a totally different thing from
the incurving that we know so well in old Frank
[ Miles or The Doctor, being confined to the very
edge, like we see it in many Darwin and florist
' Tulips. Measurements : 4J inches x (i| inches x
: if inches) x (ij inches x ij inches). I would
like to take this opportunity, while writing of a
flower in Mr. Wilson's collection, to say that I
made a mistake in saying in my notes of April 4
that the lovely Poetaz Rubellite was raised by
P. D. Williams : it should have been by J. C.
Williams.
The Marquis (R. H. Bath) is a very refined,
deep yellow Ajax — practically a self — distinguished
by the rich, sleek texture of its flat, right-angled
perianth and its shapely trumpet. The specimens
on the stand were oldish blooms, but age had made
no ravages in its beautiful appearance. The
flowers are borne on long, stiff stems. Like
Vauban, it was raised by the exhibitor. Dimen-
sions : 4j inches x (ij inches x i| inches) x
(2 inches x rf inches).
Maid of Honour (Chapman). — I often envy
Mr. Chapman's intimacy with the late Rev. G. P.
Haydon, for in him he was associated with a
great character, and " characters " are invariably
interesting people. I have always been told that
Mr. Haydon was a man of very sudden impulses.
One moment he would pour on you the full vials
of his wrath, but a second after the sun would
shine and he would be as jolly as a sandboy, and
nothing that he could do for you would be too much.
One day a generous impulse seized him when
Mr. Chapman was in his garden, when, as it so
happened, they were looking at a dainty little
white (or very pale bicolor) trumpet. " You
like it, do you ? Well, it is vours. I give it you."
AN EFFECTIVE GROUPING OF CHOICE WATER LILIES.
208
THE GARDEN.
[April 25, 1914-
That is the history of how the fascinating Maid
of Honour came to be one of the three best — if
not the best — things in this interesting seedling
collection on this particular date. It is a little
like Mrs. Robert Sydenham. Size : sf inches x
(i| inches x ij inches) x (ij inches x ij inches).
Vacona (Barr) seemed to me to stand out
among the group of new home-raised seedlings,
although many good judges considered an unnamed
Giant Leedsii (No. 1276) to be a better flower.
The reason that I cUffered from them was that I
thought the perianth was too large in proportion
to the size of the cup. Vacuna may be described
as a massive pale bicolor Ajax, quite away from
such varieties as Averil, Cygnet or Florence
Pearson, inasmuch as there is very little
recurve in the brim of the somewhat wide
trumpet. There seems to be an opening
for this type. Measurements : 4f inches
X (ij inches x i| inches) x (2 inches x
ij inches).
Midas (Wilson) is one of the many
beautiful flowers that have been raised
by Mr. J. C. Williams. It is also one
of the exceedingly large progeny of that
great giver of " good things," Princess
Mary. It has a well-formed, imbri-
cated, white, reflexing perianth of much
substance, with a large, palish yellow
cup, edged with a narrow band of red.
Measurements : 3i inches x i\ inches.
I call it a restful flower, which very
much belies the appearance that its
name suggests.
.\mong some of the other flowers
which caught my eye on my tour of
the hall were Glyngarth, a sturdy
bicolor giant incomparabilis ; Veronique,
a pure white, loosely built Leedsii of
mucli distinction ; Tantalus, an old
type Giant Leedsii, which received an
award as a cut flower ; Elgiva, a Barrii
with a very uncommon coloured ruddy
buff cup ; and Queen Primrose, a
pale squat trumpet 4|. inches x
(I is inches x i| inches) x (ij inches x
i^ inches). Joseph Jacob.
SEASONABLE NOTES
ON VEGETABLES.
having been finally forked over after giving a
dressing of soot and wood-ashes, with a sprinkle
of lime, choose a dry day to rake over the surface
and mark out the rows. If these are to be in
beds %vith an alley between, allow 2 feet for the
latter. The beds may be 6 feet or 10 feet wide,
according to the number of plants required ;
15 inches between the rows will suffice, and
13 mches from plant to plant. Lift the plants
carefully with a trowel, retaining a good ball
of soil to each, so that the plants will receive
little or no check to growth. Do not bury the
bulb, but keep it on a level with the soU. Should
the weather be dry at planting-time, gently water
the plants in to induce a quick root action.
Runner Beans. — Make a sowing in
a box in a cool house for an early-
crop. Directly the plants are above
the soil, remove to a cold frame to in-
duce a hardy, stocky growth, which will ^_
much facilitate progress when the plants are put
out.
French Beans. — Sow half-a-dozen Beans in
a 4-inch pot in a cool house, to be transferred
to 8-inch pots later on for growing in a cold frame
for successional supplies. In a week or ten
days time a sowing should be made in the open
on a warm border if the soil is of a light character ;
if heavy, sow in pots in a cold frame for planting
out later.
Broad Beans, — A final sowing in the open
should be made for the latest crop, although one
still later can be made where Beans quite small
are required for special use.
Onions. — ^The plants sown under glass and
grown on in boxes will now require planting
into their permanent quarters. The ground
NARCISSUS CRYSTALLINE, A PURE WHITE VARIETY O
L L_^LEEDSII GROUP, WITH A FRILLED TRUMPET.
Afterwards keep the soil moved between the
rows, and occasionally dust the plants over with
soot.
Peas. — Sow now, for use in August and Septem-
ber, varieties like Duke of Albany, Alderman, Quite
Content or Superlative. Do not sow the seeds
nearer than 3 inches apart ; this allows ample
room for a full development of the haiflm, without
which good pods cannot be secured. If the
ground was well manured and deeply dug or,
better, trenched, nothing beyond a forldng over
now in dry weather will be required before drawing
drills 4 inches deep for the seeds. Should the
weather be dry, well soak the bottom of the drills
before sowing, which hastens germination con-
siderably. Keep a sharp look-out for mice, which,
if numerous, will quickly spoil the row by eating
the seeds. Nothing is better for clearing these
pests than two ordinary bricks, one stood on edge,
the other canted on its edge, so that it is propped
up to the other brick by a piece of stiff wirt-
2 inches long, baited with toasted cheese.
Leeks should now be planted from the pots
or boxes in which they were raised into trenches
taken out 2 feet deep and 18 inches wide. The
bottom of the trench should be broken up at
least 6 inches deep. On this place a layer of
half-decayed farmyard manure at least 4 inches
deep ; then a layer of old potting soil, into which
the plants are transferred from the pots or boxes
with a good ball of soil attached to the roots.
If the weather is dry, give a good watering after
planting, also make sure that the
plants are sufficiently moist at the roots
before planting.
Carrots. — Make successional sowings
thinly in rows 15 inches apart for
the strong-growing varieties like the
Intermediate type. For the Horn varie-
ties a foot between the rows is ample.
Thin and hoe among plants well above
the sou.
Brussels Sprouts from the second
sowing should be planted out as fast
as the plants are ready. It is a mis-
take to allow the plants to become
drawn up weakly in the seed-bed.
Plants 4 inches high are large enough,
as at that stage they plant with less
fear of a check. Too often the seed is
sown too thickly, which means weakly
plants. It is far better, when there is a
risk of this being so, to thin out the
weaker-growing plants in the beds, as
this allows more space for the remainder.
Salsify should be sown in drills
15 inches wide. If the soQ is heavy or
stony, make holes with an iron bar at
least 2 feet deep to ensure straight
roots, as when the seedlings meet with
obstructions, as stones or hard clods,
they make fangs, and are not suitable
for cooking, apart from appearance. In
sandy soil this trouble is not experienced.
Sowing seeds such as Broccoli, Cabbage,
&c.,in the open in beds is at times diffi-
cult to accomplish satisfactorily, owing
to drought, which often prevails
during April and May, when many
vegetable seeds should be sown. It is
a common practice with the uninitiated
to sow the seeds and water the beds
' XHii afterwards, which creates a crust on thi-
surface, making it difficult for the tin\-
seedlings to push through. The best way
to ensure success is to dig over the beds roughly
and give the soil a thorough soakuig the day before
sowing the seed, and shade them with mats to
prevent the too rapid evaporation of the moisture
from the soil by the sun's rays, assuming, ot
course, the weather is hot and dry at the time.
The next day the clods will easily fall to pieces.
The seed can be sown and lightly covered with
some old potting soil, again applying the shading
until the plants are coming through the surface,
when it should be gradually removed, affording
light and air to induce a stocky growth. Lettuce
should be sown every fortnight in drills where
the plants are to remain, thinning out the plants
as soon as large enough to handle, and planting
in other drills previously \Tatered.
Swanmore. E. Molynf.ux.
April 25, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
209
GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.
HOW TO RAISE AND GROW ASPARAGUS.
]n naturalJy light soils very fine crops of j opening material may be put in, as the trenching
Asparagus can be grown without much trouble, proceeds, where the drainage is poor. Do not bury
The expense is not great, but the cultivator must 'such material too deeply — 18 inches below the
surface will do nicely.
-hi
6f^
Planting. — In cold soils
and in the Northern Counties
the end of this month will be
soon enough to put in plants
or seeds. In the Southern
Counties and where the soil
is naturally light, the middle
of the month will do. On a
fine day, and where the ground
is dry, fork up the surface
soil and leave the subsoil,
represented by No. i in Fig. A,
undisturbed. Then form
shallow ridges, as shown at
No. 2, 18 inches apart ; these
ridges need not be more than
3 inches or 4 inches high.
On them carefully place the
young plants so that their
roots may be evenly spread
out, as shown. Strong two
be prepared to wait at least two years before he | year old crowns are the best to plant, and they
can reap remunerative crops, as it is very unwise j must have a space of about nine inches between
to use Asparagus before it is strong enough to j them in the rows. Do not allow the roots and
withstand the cutting. Both heavy and light I crowns to be unduly dried by long exposure to
/////////
A. DIAGRAM TO ILLUSTRATE THE PLANTING OF ASPARAGUS. NOTE
THAT THE PLANTS ARE ON SMALL RIDGES BEFORE BEING COVERED.
soils must be deeply trenched before seeds or plants
are put in, as, once established, the plants remain
so for many years, and the cultivator has no
opportunity afterwards of making good any
defect in the formation of the beds below the
surface. Only top treatment can be given after
the plants are growing. If the soil is light
and sandy, form the beds in a position where the
ground is quite flat, if this is convenient ; but
if it is heavy and retentive of moisture, then select
a plot having a gentle slope, if one is available.
Trenching and Manuring. — The work of
trenching should be done in the autumn or winter.
the air, but get them covered up with SOU as
quickly as possible. No. 3 shows the crowns
covered and that portion of the bed finished off.
Sowing. — The same preparation of the soil
is necessary as in the case of planting roots, only
it will be well to make the surface portion some-
what finer. No. 1, Fig. B, shows the subsoil
containing also the rotted manure. Drills must
be opened 18 inches apart and 3 inches deep.
No. 2 shows the seeds dropped 3 inches apart in
the drills and covered 3 inches deep. Rather deep
sowing is much better than shallow sowing,
because the seeds germinate better at this season,
if convenient, and in the case of clayey land | when surface soils quickly dry up, and if the
the manure may be put in then ; but when dealing I resultant plants are to remain permanently in
with light soils, add the manure in February or
early in March by simply forking it in the surface,
turning over the soil on it and leaving the top
portion as rough as possible. In every case break
up the subsoil well. Broken bricks and similar
TrnTt^^jr/mrmm
-1
E._H0W TO sow SEEDS OF ASPARAGUS. THEY ARE PLACED 3 INCHES
APART AND 3 INCHES DEEP, IN ROWS l8 INCHES ASUNDER.
that position, when cut the " grass " is much
finer than after shallow sowing. Every other
seedling in the row may be pulled out, if all
seeds germinate, while quite small. This
and the keeping down of all seedling weeds
is all the work needed to
be done the first summer.
The " grass " must be cut
down to within 2 inches of
^ ~ — the soil when it is matured
-_ ^ ■- _ in the autumn.
Weakly Roots and Strong
Ones. — No. I in Fig. C shows
a weakly root and crown ;
the growth resulting from such
is shown at No. 3. No. 2
represents a strong crown,
possessing ' plenty of fleshy
roots ; such plants produce
very satisfactory growths,
similar to that shown at
No. 4. If a period of dry
weather comes, do not hesi-
tate to water the young
plants freely. G. G.
HOW TO GROW SWEET WILLIAMS.
These old-fashioned flowers are again attracting
a good deal of attention, and rightly so, for they
are showy hardy biennials of the easiest possible
culture. To secure a good display next year,
seeds ought to be sown within the next few weeks.
They may be sown either in the open ground
or in pans. The latter method is preferable, and
germination take; place quicker and more regular.
Pans or boxes of suitable dimensions should be
selected and partly filled with drainage, over which
is placed a thin layer of moss or rough material
to secure a free passage for water. A mixture of
loam and leaf-mould put through a quarter-inch
mesh sieve is an excellent compost, and the seed
ought not to be covered too deeply. Place the
pans in a cold frame, and when two or three
leaves are made, the seedlings may be pricked out
/
J
I 1
C. — POOR CROWNS AND GROWTHS CONTRASTED
WITH THOSE TH-AT HAVE HAD GOOD
TREATMENT.
into nursery beds till the autumn, unless their
flowering site is available, when they are best
planted direct into it. Frequently, however,
they must go to a spare bed, whence they are
lifted early in October and replanted where
they are to flower. Thoroughly drained soil
is essential, as the plants are liable to suffer
in wet soil during the winter.
Sweet Williams are well suited for shrubbery
borders, masses in beds, the herbaceous borders
and, in fact, almost anywhere that the soil is reason-
ably good. For most amatetirs a.good mixed strain
is best if purchased from a reliable seedsman ;
but for those who desire distinct shades I
would suggest Pink Beauty (which has delicate
pink flowers). Scarlet Beauty and Dark
Crimson. Then there is the Auricula-eyed in
variety, which possess rich colours, with a white
eye and margin. S.
210
THE GARDEN.
[April 25, 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruit Houses.
Fig Trees in Borders require careful stopping
aud thinning. Remo\-e weak growths before
the trees become crowded, and stop side shoots
at a few eyes beyond the fruits which are swelling.
Do not allow the borders to become too dn,'. or
many of the fruits will drop ; 65° at night will
be quite high enough.
Early Permanent Vines. — If started at the
beginning o^December, the Grapes will now be
colouring. The border should be examined,
and, if at all dry, a good watering of weak liquid
maninre should be applied before the crop is too
far advanced. If this can be obtained from the
farmyard and diluted with warm water until it
is of the required temperature, so much the better.
A good sprinkling of soot may also be applied with
advantage.
Tomatoes. — Plants from which ripe fruits are
being gathered should be given an occasional
top-dressing of artificial manure. Confine the
plants to single stems by the removal of all side
shoots as they appear, and do not allow them
to suffer from want of water at the roots. Early
spring-so\vn plants will now be setting their
fruits, and should be frequently top-dressed
with fine loam in which a quantity of artificial
manure has been mixed, and this should be pressed
tightly on the surface of the soil. Ventilate
freely and keep the foliage well thinned, removing
all side shoots as they appear. When a sufficient
crop is set, the leading point may be removed
from the plants and frequent waterings of liquid
manure given. A night temperature of 65°
or 70° will suit them well.
Plants Under Glass.
Perpetual-Flowering Carnations which have
been flowering throughout the winter and spring
may now be removed to some spare pit or shelter
in order to prepare them for planting ui the open.
If these plants are carefully tied to wires or strong
sticks, they will produce a quantity of useful
flowers in the autumn ; but they must never be
allowed to become too dry at the roots.
Young Carnation Plants \vhich were struck
in December should now be ready for potting
uito 6-inch pots. Keep the pit moderately close
until fresh roots are made, after which the plants
must be freely ventilated to keep them from be-
coming drawn.
Cinerprias. — A small sowing may now be made
to produce an early batch of plants. Sow in
clean pans of sifted loam aud !eaf-soil, make
moderately firm and sow thinly, covering very
lightly with fine soU. When large enough to
handle, the young plants should be placed singly
in smaji pots and shaded from strong sun through-
out the season. The most suitable position is
a cool pit facing nor li. and the pots should stand
on a good bed of ashe; witliin 15 inches of the
roof glass.
The Flower Garden.
Tuberous Begonias.— if these have been gently
started in boxes, thf y should now be parted
with a sharp knife anj. potted into 4-inch pots.
Place them in a warm pit quite near the glass,
but avoid forcing after they are established,
for it should be remembered that the sturdier
the plants are at bedding-out-time the better
will be the results.
Mignonette.— Several sowings of this sweet-
smelling plant should be made during the season.
The ground should be deeply dug and a good
dressing of old manure incorporated with the
soil, also a quantity of sifted mortar rubble.
When large enough the plants should be freely
thinned, "it is necessary to make the soil firm
before the seeds are sown.
Border Chrysanthemums should be planted
out without delay. In order to ensure the best
results, these plants should be stopped and thinned
out as it becomes necessary. Keep the shoots
tied to neat sticks, and never allow them to become
overcrowded.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Cherries. — As soon as the trees have set their
fniit, careful attention should be given to the
destruction of green or black fly, which is almost
certain to he present on the young shoots. Syringe
the trees with some insecticide as often as it may
be necessary, to keep these pests in check. Dis-
budding should be attended to before the shoots
become overcrowded, in order to avoid severe
pruning during the winter.
Mulching. — Fruit trees on south walls should
receive a good mulching of farmyard manure
before the season is too far advanced. The
soil should be lightly broken up with the points
of a digging fork before the mulching is given,
and this should be applied to newly planted trees
either on walls or in the open garden. No great
quantity of manure should be used so early in
the season, as this has a choking effect on the soil ;
and if mulching is intended for the supply of food
as well as a protection from strong sun, the
material should be of a rich, stimulating nature.
The Kitchen Garden.
Carrots. — The principal sowing of Carrots
should be made as soon as the soil is in working
order. Sow in shallow drills a foot apart, and
cover lightly with fine soil. As soon as large
enough, the seedlings may be thinned to 6 inches
apart. Frequent dustings of soot should be
applied during the season.
French Beans in pots should be freely watered
with liquid manure. Pick the pods as soon as
they are large enough for use, and if necessary
they may be kept for a few days in a cool cellar.
Sowings may now be made in cold pits for the
supply of pods at the end of June. If seeds of
Dwarf Beans are planted under a south wall,
they will be of great value as a succession to those
grown under glass.
Runner Beans. — A sowing of Scarlet Runner
Beans mav be made now in boxes or 4-inch pots,
and placed in a cold pit to produce plants for
planting in trenches in the open garden about
the third week in May. Plants raised in this
way have the advantage of protection from rough
weather, and may be expected to come into
bearing ten days before those sown in the open.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Celery. — The main crop should now be ready
for pricking out, and where only a moderate
quantity is required, this may be done in boxes.
They should then be placed in a vinery for a time,
at least until it is safe to place the plants in frames.
Where a large quantity is needed, they may be
pricked into frames right away and well protected
during cold nights. The trenches should now be
prepared for planting, and where possible they
should run north and south. The plants must
have a rich soil ; indeed, it is almost impossible to
overdo them in this respect.
Kidney Beans. — A small sowing may now be
made on a warm border. With this important
crop one has to take a great many risks. If the
summer happens to be cold and wet, it is next
to impnssible to get a crop, more particularly
in the North. It will be wise to make a sowing
in small pots. The seedlmgs can be planted
out about the second or third week in May. But
the safest plan is to make a sowing in some of
the cold frames after the bedding plants have
been taken out.
Turnip-Rooted Beet. — Seeds may now he sown
in lines in an earlv border. The roots will be much
appreciated for the earlier supplies of salads.
The sowing of the main crop had better be deferred
for at least another week or so.
The Flower Garden.
Dahlias. — hs, soon as a sufficient stock of
cuttings has been secured, place the old tubers
in frames. These will be found handy to plant
among the herbaceous plants or mixed borders.
Treated in this way, they make large specimens
and arc very effective in the late autumn.
Canterbury Bells and Sweet Williams.—
These should be placed in their flowermg quarters
without delav. It will he as well not to plant
in very large patches, as this would leave some
nasty blanks after they had gone out of flower.
I find it is a good practice to plant some Mont-
bretia bulbs among them, which will take the
place of the former when out of bloom.
Gladioli. — Where it is the practice to plant
these without hemg st.arted, no time should be
lost in getting the bulbs out. Should the soil
be of a heavy natiure, it will be advisable to put
a little sand in with each bulb, and see that they
are planted at least 4 inches deep.
Early Flowering Chrysanthemums. — Old
plants which provided cuttings for the season's
stock should not altogether be discarded. These
will be foimd to be extremely useful for giving
an early supply of flowers, either planted in some
odd corner or in the mixed border. The yoimg
plants should now be fully exposed to the weather,
and planted out as soon as they are sufficiently
hardened. They may be pinched now or after
they have obtained a start.
Bedding Plants, — All plants which have been
grown in heat should be placed in frames as soon
as possible. Half-hardy annuals grown in boxes
often receive a check through neglect in watering,
so that it will be wise to plant them out as soon
as it is reasonably safe. Besides, it relieves the
pressure later when there is so much to see to.
Yews. — The clipping of Yew hedges or the
more ornate specimens may now be proceeded
with. Even at this date they will most likely
assume a rather yellowish hue. Still, with the
increased warmth they soon recover. Where
one has a hedge that does not seem to be par-
ticularly happy, it will be foimd that in most
cases the plants are suffering from poverty. In
such instances apply a good chressing of rich farm-
yard manure, and if this is at all unsightly, it can
be covered with a little soil.
Plants Under Glass.
Deutzias. — ^Plants that have been forced will
now be passing out of bloom, and should have
the old wood cut back to encourage the young
growth. As soon as growth commences, they
should be repotted and kept growing on in moderate
heat until growth is completed, when they ought
to be stood out of doors. Plants that have not
been repotted must have frequent applications
of manure-water. If it is intended to increase
the stock, cuttings should be taken off and rooted
singly in small pots. These will make useful
little flowering plants for next season.
Primula sinensis.— Where plants are required
for early flowering, a small sowing may be made
now, and as Primulas do not, as a rule, germinate
freely, a little extra care will repay the grower.
The seed-pans should be well drained and filled
with a mixture of about equal parts loam
and leaf-soil, with a little sand. The pans should
be watered before sowing and allowed to drain.
Sow the seeds thinly, cover with a piece of glass,
aud place in a moderate temperature. They
should never on any account be grown in too
much heat.
Winter-Flowering Pelargoniums. — A good
batch of cuttings should now be rooted for supplying
plants to bloom in early winter. These should
be grown on in 6-inch pots and kept m frames
fully exposed to the sun. The flowers must be
pinched off as they appear until the end of August
or the beginning of September, by which time the
plants should be good specimens. House them not
later than the end of September.
Fruits Under Glass.
Grapes Shanking. — .Although one docs not
expect Grapes to shank at this early stage, stUl,
it is usually in the earlier stages that the damage
is done. One of the principal causes of shanking is
that the Vines are planted in too rich a soil, causing
them to grow on late in the season ; these late roots
usually rot, which causes an unequal balance
between top and root. Another cause is flagrant
neglect of atmospheric conditions. Roots either
too wet or too drv. and especially roots that
have gone down and away from the influence
of the sun ; denuding Vines of large quantities
of foliage at one time, which causes a severe
check; and overcropping are other factors that
tend to bring about shanking.
John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopetoun Gardens, Soufh Qxieciisferry, N.B.
April 25, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
211
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
Evert/ department of horticulture is represented in The
Garden, and the Editor inrites readers to send in questions
relating to matters upon which thru >vish expert advice.
The Editor ivelcomes ph>, articles and notes,
but he ivill not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, hoivever, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosedy he ivill endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions .
As regards photographs, if payment he desired, the Editor
aslcs tliat the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual pfioto-
grapher or owner of tfie copyright loill be treated ivith.
The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which fie may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be tafcen as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden tvill alone
be recognised as acceptance.
Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C.
ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
question! and answers.— y/ie Editor intends to
make The Garden fielpful to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
■with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All cornmunications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the EDITOR of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the s^^r are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. Wfien more than one
query is sent, each sftould be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-ivool, and fioivering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher.
FLOWER GARDEN.
SWEET PEAS IN GRASS LAND (H. fl.).— We do not
see any reason why Sweet Peas cannot be grown in gras^
land, providing you make the holes a yard in diameter
and break up the soil 2 feet deep. Of course, everything
will depend on the character of the soil and the treatment
the plants are given afterwards. You did not, unfortunately,
give us any idea as to what you have done, or in what
part of the country you are living.
DAFFODILS NOT FLOWERING (W. Watts).— We think
it is quite probable that the reason why your Emperor
Daflfodils are not flowering better is overcrowding. These
Daffodils increase very rapidly in most gardens, and the
bulbs need lifting and thinning every other year to do
well. Your best plan will be to lift all the bulbs this year
when the foliage has naturally died down, separate them,
and plant the strongest in the bed that you wish to have
plenty of flowers in next spring. The smallest of them
could be planted in a bed of good soil in some other part
of the garden, and after having a year there would, no
doubt, attain flowering size.
SOWING NYMPH^ASEED (Winner). —Yomt Nympheea
seed had better be sown indoors. Place a shallow tub or
tank on the stage of a warm greenhouse where it will
be exposed to the sun. Then sow th^ seeds thinly in pan?,
or singly in small pots, filled with loamy soil. Cover
the seeds with about a quarter of an inch of compost.
The pots or pans must then be stood in the tub or tank
so that they are covered by from half an inch to an inch
of water. Change a little of the water daily if no means can
be found for allowing a little of the waterto be continually
running in and out. The seedlings ought to appear in
a few weeks' time, and if in pans they must be potted
singly as soon as they are large enough to handle. Plant
in water out of doors when several leaves have been formed
and the plants are fairly vigorous. It may be necessary
to repot them into 5-inch pots first.
WHERE TO OBTAIN VARIOUS PLANTS {Solent).—
Of the several subjects concerning which you enquire.
Salvia involucrata BetheUii is generally known in gardens
and nurseries as S. BetheUii ; Chironia linoides is usually
gro\Mi as C. ixifera ; and Pentas carnea is a well-known
stove plant. Any nurseryman who makes a speciality
of stove and greenhouse plants should be able to supply
these. Apply to Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Chelsea,
or to Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Bush Hill Park, Enfield.
Senecio Heritieri is rarely seen outside of a botanic garden,
but one of the above firms might keep it in stock. Calceo-
laria Forgetii was introduced by Messrs. Sander of St.
Albans, and no doubt they could supply it. For the
herbaceous and rockwork plants, send to Messrs. John
Waterer, Son, and Crisp, Wargrave Plant Farm, Twyford,
BerkSj or Messrs. Thomas Ware and Co., Feltham, ftUddle-
sex. Where any particular firm does not stock the plant
enquired after, they will, as a rule, obtain it if possible.
THE GREENHOUSE.
ALPINE HOUSE {She^eld).—li you cannot find any
other position than under the Silver Birch tree, we should
ad\ise you to abaudou the idea of growing alpiucts, and takt;
up choice hardy Forns instead. One of the essentials
to success with alpines under glass is unrestricted light,
which nothing short of an open position can ensure. Thie
is even more important when, as in your case, there is
some idea of permanent planting. Then, it would appear
that the house would liave to be of a lean-to character,
which also is not good. The best type of house is span-
roofed ; the best position an entirely open one, which
permits of ventilation on all sides as well as the roof.
The plants should be grown in pots and pans, preferably
in frames or on a bed of ashes in the open in the summer,
and taken into the house in autumn. The size of such
a liouse is optional to its owner ; it may be a dozen feet
long or thrice that length, while a width of 10 feet would
serve for all. If soil and stone were used on the staging,
tho latter would have to be of a substantial character.
They are not essential. In the circumstances, we think
you had better consider the matter and then write u?
again.
FRUIT GARDEN.
WIRES ON WALLS FOR FRUIT TREES (O. K. M.).~
Yes ; wire the walls for the fruit trees. It is possible to
fix the wires about half an inch away from the wall, and
this will be quite close enough for the branches. When
the wires are fixed several inches from the wall, there is
a cold current of air passing behind the branches and young
foliage, and, in the case of Peaches and Nectarines, in
some exposed gardens, leaf blister is then more prevalent.
The branches can be kept from direct contact with the
wires by twisting the tying material once or twice as you
suggest.
MISCELLANEOUS.
ADMISSION TO THE CHELSEA SHOW iN»w Reader).—
The spring show of the Koyal Horticultural Society,
to be held at Chelsea on May 19, 20 and 21, will be open
to the public on Tuesday, May 19, from 12 noon to 6 p.m.,
admission 10s. ; from b p.m. to 8 p.m., 2s. 6d. On
Wednesday, May 20, from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m., 2s. 6d. ; from
G p.m. to 8 p.m., Is. On Thursday, May 21, from 7 a.m.
to 6 p.m., Is. At 6 o'clock on this day the show closes.
After your Calceolarias have done flowering in pots, we
do not think they would give any satisfaction if planted
out in the garden.
VARIOUS QUESTIONS (A. D.).—The two plants sent
for identification are : (a) Chionodoxa Luciiise, flowers
developed somewhat abnormally ; (&) Pieris floribunda.
The Rose leaves appear to be affected by a fungus disease
known as the rose-leaf blotch (Actinonoma rosae), but it
has not developed suflaciently for correct identification.
Spray the plant with a weak solution of potassium
permanganate, and, as the leaves fall, collect them promptly
and burn them at once. These precautions will probably
act as a preventive against the disease appearing another
year. The Rhododendron leaf is suffering from the
presence of thrips, small black insects which prey upon
leaves of many indoor plants. They are encouraged by
a dry, close atmosphere and improper cultural conditions
generally. Fumigate the house with a nicotine prepara-
tion once a fortnight, and sponge the leaves now and then
with soft-soap water.
NAMES OF PLANTS. — ,/. C, i/e^a«d. — Narcissus
J. B. M. Camm. J. R. D. — 1, Anemone blanda ; 2,
Chionodoxa LucilJEc aigantea. Mrs. S., Holinbury St.
Mary. — Yes ; the pink flower is Andromeda polifolia ; the
pale Anemone is A. apennina ; the smaller anel deeper
flower is Anemone blanda.
BOOKS.
The Rose Annual. — The Council of the National
Rose Society are to be heartily congratulated
on the exceedingly interesting and useful volume
now before us. When we remember that this
is only one of several publications that members
receive, in addition to admission tickets to all
the society's shows, it is not difficult to understand
the phenomenal increase in membership year by
year. Certainly this year's Annual is the best
the society has ever published, and it is packed
with interesting letterpress and illustrations
from cover to cover. Those who are interested
in French Roses will read with great pleasure
M. Jules Gravereaux's descriptive account of
his famous Rose garden at the village of I'Hay.
As president of the French Rose Society he is
rightly regarded as the leading amateur rosarian
in France, and we thank him for placing on record
so charming a description of his garden. The
classification of Roses is becoming a serious problem,
and we expected to find something relating to it
in the Annual. Nor are we disappointed. Mr.
Alex. Dickson of Belfast, Mr. W. Easlea, Mr.
Peter Lambert, Mr. George Paul, V.M.H., the
Rev. J. H. Pemberton, Mr. A. E. Prince, Mr.
G. M. Taylor, Dr. A. H. Williams and Mr. George
Gordon, V.M.H., al! offer suggestions for the
rearrangement of our various classes of Roses,
and doubtless the Council will be able to derive
from these a basis on which to work. We hope
to be able to deal with this subject more fully at
a later date. Autumn-flowering pillar Roses,
for which there is naturally a large demand, are
fully dealt with by Mr. H. R. Darlington, and
Mr. Pierre Guillot gives some very interesting
information about the use of the Rose in the
ornamentation of the garden. Then comes a
most interesting article on the production of new
varieties, by Dr. A. H. Williams. This is splendidly
illustrated, and gives the novice some very valuable
information about hybridisation and crossing,
and the ripening, storing and sowing of seed.
Mildew and black spot receive attention from
Mr. M. A. Bailey, B.A. ; black spot from Mr.
H. R. Darlington, who, we believe, has been
troubled a good deal with it among his Roses ;
and Mr. George G. Hamilton puts forward some
rather startling ideas about the prevention of
fungoid diseases from a surgeon's point of view.
Diseases also receive attention from the Rev. F.
Page-Roberts and Dr. A. R. Waddell. Mrs.
H. R. Darlington, who always seems to have
something fresh to say about Roses, and who
has the gift of saying it in such an interesting way,
gives particulars of the lasting qualities of cut
Roses, a subject that is of more than ordinary
interest to thousands of rosarians. Dr. H. T.
Hinton gives some useful information about
chlorosis, or the yellowing of foliage, and Mr.
Courtney Page discourses on the budding of
Roses, a subject tjiat is always of considerable
interest to amateurs. This article is fully illus-
trated, and is of a highly practical character. " How
to Treat Roses the First Year after Planting"
is the title of a useful article by Dr. C. Lamplough,
while Mr. H. E. Molyneux, whose notes on newer
Roses are so highly appreciated by our readers,
deals fully with the new seedling Roses of 1913.
The illustrations, a number of them in colour,
are very interesting and good, and we advise all
our readers who are not members of the National
Rose Society to purchase a copy of this Annual.
It can be had for 2s. 6d. post free from the hon.
secretary, Mr. E. Mawley, Rosebank, Berkham-
sted ; or, better still, send Mr. Mawley los. 6d.
and become a member of the society, and so secure
all the privileges that are extended to members.
THE EDITOR'S TABLE.
Blue Primroses and Polyanthuses {rom
Ireland. — Mr. J. W. Brasier-Creagh, Creagh
Castle, Doneraile, County Cork, sends some very
fine flowers of blue Primroses in two shades of
that colour. One, which is particularly charming,
is a very large flower of rich blue with a well-
deiined yellow eye, whUe the other is deep
violet of a velvety texture. In addition, we
were very pleased to find some good blue
Polyanthuses, the best of their kind we have
seen. Accompanying these interesting flowers
were some wonderful St. Brigid Anemones, grown
only as they can be grown in the moist and genial
climate of the Emerald Isle. Daffodils from the
same source comprised several seedlings, the best
212
THE GARDEN.
[April 25, 1914.
of which was a large bicolor trumpet variety
named Pride of Munster. .AJthough not quite
up to exhibition form, this should prove a good
market flower.
SOCIETI ES.
THE FERTILISATION OF FRDIT TREES.
A LECTtJKE of considerable importance to fniit-^rowcrs
was recently given by Mr. G. 0. Shcrrard, from the John
Innes Horticultural Institute. Mcrton. to the members
of the Croydon and District Horticultural Mutual Improve-
ment Society, at their rooms. Sunflower Temperance
Hotel George Street. Crovdon, In practical experience
of fruit-growing one finds failures in cropping some kinds,
and it is often remarked that failure to set the fruit is
owin" to climati" conditions, oftentimes frost, prevaihng
when" the blossoms are developed. Perhaps in some
seasons this explanation is correct, but it is now obvious
to the scientist that there is another reason for the non-
bearing of trees— the sterility of the variety^ Most
noticeable is this in some varieties of Plums Cherries
and Apples, and at the John Innes Horticultural
Institute research is being made to detect varieties which
are self-fertile and those which are self-sterile. In dis-
tricts where perhaps a few varieties are grown, one often
discovers a dearth in the crop, and it is in cases of
this kind that the beneficial results accrue to the scientist s
researches In the Plum family it is found that an equal
number of varieties are self-fertile and self-stenle. and
from experiments which Mr. Sherrard and Professor Bate-
son who is the head of the John Innes HorticiUtural
Institute, are carrying on, they are able to recrird the
fertility and sterihtv of each variety, and also how the
sterile trees may be made productive by cross-fertihsation.
Some useful data shown by Mr. Sherrard by lantern
slides proved extremely interesting, and gave the audience
some idea of the elatiorate precautions one has to adopt
to make true records of the different crossings. Perfect
isolation of the tree must be adopted, and an insect-proof
house was shown where many experiments were earned
on Fruit trees are grown in pots, with the top of the pot
covered with material tied round the base of the tree to
prevent insects which may be hatched in the soil clunbmg
up the stems. Another Ulustration was a \ictoria Plum
tree in the open, encircled with muslin to exclude all
insects and this experiment showed that without the aid
of insects the blossom did not sot, A variety of Plum
known as Wyedale, poUmated with its own pollen, was
unproductive, but the introduction of poUen of another
variety was conducive to a good crop. Mr. Sherrard
informed the audience that many experunents similar
to these have yet to be carried on, to show which varieties
are favourable to each other in production. With Clierries
the difficulty appears to be more pronounced, the number
of self-fertile varieties hemg so few. In the Apple it is
found that the introduction of poUen from another variety
produces bigger fruit in a self-fertile variety, and the
variety Lord Derby was shown as an example. Goose-
berries are all seU-fertUe, but the pollen is sticky, and
where these are grown near a bed of brighter-hued flowers
it has been noticed that insects avoid the flower of the
Gooseberry. It will be the privilege of this society to
visit the home of these researches on June 10, and the
awakened interest will be intensified when that evening
outing is made.
EAST ANGLIAN HORTICULTURAL CLUB.
AT the April meeting of this club, presided over by Sir.
John Clayton, there was a strong muster of members
to hear Mr. George Herbert discourse upon Sweet
Peas " Mr. Herbert, as all the Sweet Pea world knows,
was for several years with Mr. Breadmore, but is now
in the service of Hobbles, Limited, Dereham, Norfolk,
who no doubt will be doing big things in Sweet Peas in
the future Mr. Herbert detailed his initiation into
enthusiasm for Sweet Peas and the way he had worked
to bring about the notable varieties that bear his hall-
mark He dealt largely with culture, diseases, preparing
for exhibition and kindred subjects in a style that everyone
was able to grasp. Following the remarks of Mr. Herbert
came a very interesting discussion. Mr. Eobert Hohnes,
Tuckswood, Norwich, himself a great authority and
raiser of Sweet Peas, complimented Mr. Herbert upon the
way he had dealt with the subject. Mr, T. Notley and
Mr. F. Welby, two notable local growers, gave their views
of the matter, as did many others. On the exhibition
tables Sweet Pea blooms were placed from Hobbies in a
fine assortment. The first Strawberries of the season
were also staged— fine dishes of Royal Sovereign from
several growers.
BIRMINGHAM AND MIDLAND COUNTIES
GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION.
" Of late years hardy border flowers are rapidly coming
to the forefront." This was the opening remark of Mr.
B Pugh of Messrs. J. Carter and Co , Kaynes Park,
London, S.W., when giving a lecture on " Hardy Flowers
from Seed for Town Gardens " on April 6 at a meetmg of
the above association. The lecture, he said, was more
in the capacity of a talk, in which he wished to give his
audience many useful hints which might not be known
to them before. Through the medium of numerous
hand-painted slides he transported to the screen before
them many exquisite photographs portraying several
hardy border glories of past summers, a number of which
had 'bsen grown in Messrs. Carter's world-famous trial
grounds. Hardy border flowers from seed are best grown
in boxes and transplanted when the seedlings become
established, care being taken to guard against froat.
The boxes should contain the poorest soil possible. To
tills a little decayed Coco.tnut fibre inigrit be added in
order to provide a germinating food for tlie plants. For
protection in the border itself many devices could be
adopted, such as placing a zinc ring an inch in height
around delicate seedlings to exclude the slugs from them.
One purpose of Mr. Lugh's selection of border flowers
was to revive old features ; therefore he included not only
the most up-to-date annuals and perennials, but several
older favourites generally discarded of recent years —
Antirrhinums, Everlasting Flowers, Ageratums, Car-
nations, Dahlias, Canterbury Bells, Nemesias, Poppies,
Nasturtiums, Phlox Drummondii, Scabious and Verbenas ;
in fact, all herbaceous Ixirder plants would, he contended,
flourish in either town or country areas, provided a liberal
suppiv of lime and plenty of manure were given to them.
Muria"te of potash applied to Clarkia and Balsams —
absolute essentials for all borders — would be exceptionally
beneficial, and an experiment in raising Dahlias from seed
would amply reward the grower with good samples. At
the conclusion questions were invited. Several were
forthcoming from Messrs. Herbert, Palmer, "Webb, Smith,
Parker and Ford. The vote of thanks proposed by
Mr. Jones and seconded by Mr. Palmer was carried with
much appreciation.
ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.
Daffodil Show.
The above society held its Daffodil Show at Vincent
Square, Westminster, on April 15 and 16. The fine bank
of Narcissi arranged by Messrs. Carter, Kaynes Park,
attracted considerable attention, as mucli by reason of its
naturalness as bv the effective floral display. Backed
and occasionally "interspersed by flowering and evergreen
shrubs, there was suggested the massed effect possible
in the garden at this time, and certainly no other spring
flower is capable of such good work. In this way one was
impressed by the free masses of such fine things as Glory
of Leiden, JIme. de Graaff, the red-eyed Firebrand,
the semi-double Argent, Seagull, Queen Alexandra and
the Poeticus-flowercd Hercules. Golden Rose (a rich
yellow double-flowered incomparabilis) was also good. The
low wall fronting the arrangement, and freely planted with
alpines, contributed to the garden effect produced.
Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, contributed a nice
assortment of seedling Daffodils, representative of sell
and bicolor Ajax forms, Poeticus, Leedsii and other
sections. That numbered 194, a fine bicolor from Wear-
dale, was of splendid proportions. Another very rich
yellow was 215, a magnificent bit of colour and
shapely withal. The fiowers were most daintily and
effectively arranged.
From Messrs. R. H. Bath, Lunited, Wisbech, came a
very fine gathering of Daffodils, particularly noticeable
being a handsome white flower with green base to the
segments, a striking flower not yet named; Lady
Superior (a glorious Barrii), White Pennant (virtually
a Giant Leedsii), CrcEsus (a flower of unequalled excellence),
and Lady Mayoress (also a Leedsii of giant form).
The Rev. G. H. Engleheart, Dinton, Salisbury, in the
annexe, showed, as usual, one of his unique sets of seedlings.
They were here in plenty, rich in variety and beauty,
of merit and distinction. That numbered 648, a rich
golden yellow, is valuable for its lateness. The triandrus
hybrids in the group were also a charming set, appealing
both by their size and refinement.
Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, W.C, arranged
a formidable collection of choice Daffodils, seedlings
and the leading commercial sorts being staged in abun-
dance. Seedling 802, a golden yellow Ajax, is a magnificent
thing, rich hi colour and great In size. Ruby, a red cup,
is a shapely flower and a gem among the Barriis. St.
Olaf (Leedsii) is a dainty flower. King Alfred. Lord
Roberts, Blazing Star and Cassandra were all notable
and good. Messrs. Barr also contributed alpines.
Messrs. Waterer, Son, and Crisp, Twyford and Bagsliot,
displayed Daffodils and flowering shrubs. Rhododendron
Alice, 'a deep pink-flowered Pink Pearl, being conspicuous.
The rock garden arrangement from the same firm con-
tained masses of Primulas, Aubrietias, Mossy Saxifrages
and the like.
Messrs. H. B. May and Sons, Edmonton, arranged
groups of Clematis, dwarf Rambler Roses, Calceolarias,
and Tufted Pansies In pans.
Mr. Clarence Elliott, Stevenage, contributed a rock
group with such as Gentiana vema, Oxalis enneaphylla,
Androsaec vlUosa, Arabis aubrietioides. Anemone robinsoni-
ana and others.
Messrs. WiUiam (Jutbush and Sons, Highgate, N.,
arranged Azaleas of the mollis and sinensis section, also
Indian Azaleas in variety.
Messrs. WiUs and Segar, South Kensington, displayed
a fine strain of Cinerarias, Erica wilmoreana King
Edward VII., with Stocks and Mignonette of a particularly
good strain.
Messrs. Whitelegg and Page, Chislehurst, had a very
pretty rockwork arrangement, massmg such thmgs as
Primula rosea, P. frondosa and P. denticulata in variety.
Meconopsis intcgrifolia was very fine, also Daphne
Cneorum, which was full of its rosy flower clusters.
The double St. Brigid Anemones from Messrs. Reams-
bottom and Co., Geashill, King's Coimty, Ireland, were,
as usual, particularly flue, blue, pink, rose, scarlet, violet,
flesh and other shades making a brilliant display.
Mr. Alfred Dawkins, 40, King's Road, Chelsea, had a
nice collection of Narcissi, White Queen, Albatross, Lord
Roberts, Southern Star, Dubloon, Magpie, Lady Margaret
Boscawen and Cardinal all being good.
The Lissadell Plant and Bulb Farm, Sligo, had many
good Daffodils, Weanlale Perfection, King Alfred, Flam-
beau and Alannah t)eing all important and distinct.
Judge Bird (bicolor) and Fin MacCumhal (of big Sir Watkin .
form) were also excellent. •
Robert Sydenham, Limited, Birmingham, had a capital
collection of leading commercial sorts, Mme. de Qraaff,
Vivid, White Lady and Wavercn's Giant being well
represented. 5Ir. C. Engelmann had a good representa-
tive lot of Carnations. Messrs. B. R. Cant, Colchester,
followed with a good lot of Roses, of which Silver Queen
(single, white). Lady Hlllingdon and Richmond were
the best.
In the group from Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin we
noted Nightingale (a fine Poeticus), Morven (bicolor) and
Scarlet Gem, all of which received awards of merit.
Mr. Christopher Bourne, Bletehley, staged good vases
of Evangehne, Lady Moore (a fine red cup), (Jueen of
the West, Great Warley, Queen of Hearts (a brilliant-eyed
flower), Mrs. Robert Sydenham and Buttercup in an
excellent lot.
Messrs. J. R. Pearson and Sons, Chilwell, had Lord
Kitchener, Grey Mare, Great Warley, Lowdhdm Beauty
(a superb Leedsii), Horace (a great Poeticus) and Orange
Gem in a good lot.
The group from Messrs. Walter T. Ware, Limited. Bath,
was among the most telling in the show. King Led (an
enormous bicolor, with green-backed segments). Queen of
the West (rich golden) and Horace (Poeticus), the latter
the finest we have seen of this class, were in magniflcent
form. Macebearer, Embassy, ^Vhite Slave, "Wliite City,
Roll C!all and Albatross were all fine. There were many
splendid seedlings also in the group.
Mr. W. A. Watts. St. Asaph, had a great massed
bank of Daffodils, staging the more popular sorts in
considerable numbers. The group was one of the most
extensive in the show, but, owing to the method of naming,
or rather lack of it, we are precluded from referring in
detail to the varieties shown.
CoMPExmvE Classes.
In the competitive class for a collection of forty-eight
varieties, three stems of each, Mr. A. JI. Wilson, Bridg-
water, took the lead. His best flowers were Berseker,
(rich yellow Ajax self), The Fawn (Leedsii), Lord Kitchener,
Leontes, Crcesus (a fine red cup), Lancelot (Giant Leedsii),
Buttercup (rich yellow), Cleopatra, Countess of Stamford
(pure white Ajax), Bramblmg (a brilliant-cupped form)
and Stmflower (a flat-cupped variety of distinction and
merit). Mr. C. Bourne, Bletehley, was second in this
class, having Cornelia, Lord Kitchener, Lord Roberts,
Neptune, Bernardino, Judge Bird, J. T. Bennett-Po6,
Duke of Lemster and Countess Grey among his best
flowers. Mr. F. H. Chapman, Rye, was third, with a
nice lot of fiowers inclusive of some good seedlings.
In Class 2, for twelve long trumpet Daffodils, Sir. C.
Bourne. Bletehley. was placed first. Golden King. White
Emperor, Lord Roberts, Cleopatra, Mrs. G. H. Barr.
Jlrs. Robert Sydenham and Conqueror (a fine pale bicolor)
being the best. Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin, Kidder-
minster, were second, Jlrs. E. M. Crosfleld (white Ajax),
Ben Alder (a glorious big yellow) and Fort George (a
bicolor with heavy flanged crown) being very flue.
In Class 3, for tw-elve incomparabilis, Messrs. CartwTight
and Goodwin took the lead, ha%ing Whitewell, Wonderland,
Neptune, Great Warley, Pedestal and Marshlight among
good flowers. Mr. C. Bourne, Bletehley, was second,
Macebearer, Great Warley, Bernardino and Duke of
Leinster being ah excellent.
For twelve Barrii Daffodils, Mr. Bourne was in the premier
place, CcBur de Lion, Southern Star, Cossack and Queen
of Hearts being very fine. In this class Mr. F. H. Chapman,
Rye, was second, having Little Tich and several good
seedlings in a capita! lot of flowers.
For nine Leedsii Daffodils, Messrs. Cartwright and
Goodwin led the way. Nemesis, Felstar, Thistle and Lemon
Star being the best. Mr. W. A. Watts, St. Asaph, was
second, his Seedling 229 bemg a distinct flower.
For nme Daffodils selected from Di\isions V., VI.
and VII., Messrs. CartwTight and Goodwm were first,
Araby and Buttercup, both rich yellow, being very fine.
In the class for six Poeticus Daffodils, Mr. F. H. Chapman,
Rye, had a particularly nice lot, Ibis, Ditty, with Seed-
lings 124, 120, 24 and 18, being very fine, the last-
named of exceptionally good form.
For six double Daffodils from Division X., Messrs.
CartwTight and Goodwin, Kidderminster, were placed
first. Sundown (scarlet and white), Tintoretto, Plenipo,
Amphion, Royal Sovereign and Dubloon being his set.
For a collection of twcnty-foiu- varieties (amateurs)
representing the three main sections of the flower, Mr.
N. Y. Lower, Presteign, Radnorshire, was adjudged first,
having Noble, Horace, Lucifer, Giraffe, Olympia, Red
Beacon Lord Roberts, Weardale Perfection and Cleopatra
among good thUigs. The Rev. T. Buncombe, Black
Torrington, was second. ^ „
For six long trumpet Daffodils the last-named gentle-
man stood in the first place, Treasure Trove, King Alfred
and Weardale Perfection being the best vases. The same
exhibitor took!first prize tor six incomparabilis, his vases
of Homespun and Gloria Mundi being very good.
For tweh'e distinct Daffodils not in commerce, Mr.
P D Williams, Lanarth, arranged some brilliant flowers.
Unfortunately, the varieties were not named, save Wlute
Wax. a fine white Ajax.
For twelve seedling Daffodils not in commerce, raised
by the exhibitor, Mr. A. M. Wilson, Shovell, Bridgwater,
was first with a wonderful lot of fiowers, his 424, of
Englehcartii form and crowTi, bemg of a uniform apricot
shadi throughout. It is a delicate and beautiful flower.
Aincel, a chaste flower of wiiite with picotee edge of pale
oranj;", was also choice and good.
,.«>4e^
GARDENS
-^^=^*«#^'
No. 2215.— Vol. LXXVIII.
May 2, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Tulips after Flowering. — When the choicer
varieties go out of bloom, they should have
the flower-spikes partly cut back, as if
allowed to form seed this would undoubtedly
weaken the bulb. The bulbs should not, however,
be lifted until the foliage is ripened, after which
they may be taken up, cleaned, and spread
out on a mat in a sunny position to ripen.
Dwarf Brooms for the Rock Garden. — Many
rock gardens will be looking attractive just now,
and certainly more interesting, where some
of the dwarf Brooms are accommodated.
Cytisus Ardoiiiii, C. Beanii and C. kewensis,
which are now giving their wealth of yellow
blossom, are some of the best, and are
making a grand display either growing on a
ledge or hanging over some of the larger
rocks. If it is desirous of keeping them in
a compact state, the growths should be
thinned directly after flowering.
Staking Herbaceous Plants. — Many
early flowering plants will now require
staking, and it is important that this work
should be done early, for if the plants are
allowed to assume a straggling habit, it is a
difficult matter to make them look
quite natural. Before the stakes are
placed in position it is necessary to
thin the shoots of such plants as Asters ;
and, in fact, most herbaceous plants will
benefit by a careful thinning of the shoots
before the plants are tied up. The flower-
stems of Eremurus should receive support
as early as possible. Pyrethrums will also
require early attention, or the stems may
soon become broken down by heavy rain.
Hybrid Barberton Daisies.— The beau-
tiful hybrid Gerberas were raised a few
years ago by crossing the well-known
Gerbera Janiesonii first with G. viridifolia,
and the offspring of this with G. St.
Michael, the latter being a yellow form
of G. Jamesonii. Since then, by selecting
and intercrossing, a wonderful variety of
brilliant and pleasing shades of colour
have been obtained, from white to pink,
many shades of yellow, orange, simset,
on to deep rich purple. A group of
charming plants grown in pots will be,, found of
great value for decorating the conservatory at
the present time. They are of easy cultivation,
and deserve to be grown more than they are,
as they continue to flower well on into the summer.
In some parts of France they are grown on an
extensive scale in the open for market purposes.
The credit for this beautiful class of plants is due
to Mr. R. 1. Lynch, M.A., of the Botanic Garden,
these
Cambridge, who did much to bring them to such : shade of red, and when kissed by the morning sun
perfection. They are grown wonderfully well
there and are at present much admired.
Cottages for Workmen at Wisley. — We under-
stand that the Council of the Royal Horticultural
Society intend erecting some cottages for their
workmen at Wisley. We hope that, while fully
bearing in mind the practical side of these, the
Council will also see to it that in appearance
the cottages will be in keeping with the beautiful
is far prettier than the garish colours of such a
Tulip as Keizerskroon, which seems to be the
only one grown in most suburban gardens. There
are many other Roses the foliage of which is most
charming just now, notably Marquise de Sinety,
Shower of Gold and American Pillar. This phase of
our national flower ought not to be lost sight of.
The Pasque-FIower (Anemone Pulsatilla). —
This is beyond doubt one of the most charming of
all our native flowers. It is not a common
British plant ; indeed, it is considered rare.
When found growing wild it is usually in
a rather dry position over a chalky soil,
such as on the chalk 'downs of Berkshire,
where it has occasionally been found. The
leaves and flowers are beautiful at all stages
of their growth. The flowers are pale violet,
downy on the outside, and surrounded by
pretty collarettes of feathery green. Therr
are many garden varieties, of which alba
the one illustrated, is one of the most
beautiful of spring flowers.
The Midland Daffodil Society's Show.—
The annual show was held at the Botanic
Gardens, Edgbaston, Birmingham, on Thurs-
day and Friday of last week. The show,
which is reported on another page, once
again proved a great success, and there was
a representative gathering of Daffodil ex-
perts from all parts of the British Isles. One
figure, however, was sadly missed, namely,
the late Robert Sydenham, who had
always entered so heartily into the success
of this great exhibition. Out of respect for
his memory the annual dinner was not
held on this occasion. At a meeting held
in the evening of the first day of the
show, it was agreed that the dinner should
be held in future
Planting Flower-Beds.— Now that we
are close on the season for bedding out,
it is a good time to direct attention to a
very common mistake. This is the raising
of the surface of the beds so far above
the level of the surrounding ground that
it is impossible to keep the soil properly
sylvan surroundings. We commend to their , watered. Not only is it seen in villa gardens
notice the excellent designs published in Country I and such places where the experience of the
Litel&st week, the result of a National Competition gardener may not be great, but in more pretentious
arranged by the Proprietors, These are of the gardens, and even in some of the public parks
greatest interest at a time when the housing this error is often made. If the soil is raised up
problem is such a serious one. , like that of a grave, it often proves to be a grave
WHITE VARIETY OF THE PASQUE
ANEMONE PULSATILLA ALBA.
FLOWER
Beautiful Rose Foliage.— During the last
few days we have derived a great deal of pleasure
from a small hedge of that grand Rose Griiss an
Teplitz. The foliage of this is a beautiful warm
for some of the more delicate plants. Ample
supplies of water may be poured on the bed, but
most of it runs off, and the poor plants are
practically starved in the midst of plenty.
214
THE GARDEN.
[May 2, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
The Japanese Plums in Canada. — The state-
ment made by your correspondent Mr. Bimyard
in his letter, published in The Garden of March 14
last, that the Japanese Plums, such as Abundance,
Burbank, &c., are too tender for the climate of
England, greatly surprises us in Canada, who have
been growing them, without any evidence of
tenderness, for many years quite unprotected,
where the temperature sometimes goes to 30°
below zero. I have always foimd them to
be quite as little injuriously affected by
cold as the European Plums. — Canadian, London,
Canada.
The Hardiest Grevilleas. — In the extreme
west of the country, a great many Grevilleas, as
well as other Australian plants, are regarded as
hardy shrubs. Throughout the greater part of
England, however, most of them may be looked
upon only as greenhouse plants, though a couple
at least are fairly hardy in the neighbourhood
of London. These are Grevillea rosmaiinifolia,
in which the foliage is by no means unlike that
of the Rosemary, while its clusters of curiously
shaped flowers are borne in great profusion. The
second species, G. sulphurea, has dark green.
a recognition of similar work done for the flower,
and is held by the recipient for one year. In 191 2
it was awarded to the Rev. G. H. Engleheart ; in
1913 to Mr. P, R. Barr. This year (1914) the
recipient is Mr. E. M. Crosfield. He is one of our
greatest seedling raisers and a great cultivator.
.As a showman he has no superior. Few, if any,
are the great prizes at Birmingham or in London
which he has not won at one time or another.
Countess of Stamford, Empire, Ring Dove,
Anchorite, Mowgli and Honey Maid are sufficient
examples wherewith to illustrate the cathohcity
of his efforts in hybridising. The choice of the
Royal Horticultural Society of this year's holder
of the blue ribbon of the Daffodil world is very
popular. If he does not talk, Mr. Crosfield works —
works hard, shrinks from nothing, even changes
his home — for the sake of the flower which he has
made his own. I know I express the feelings of
all his friends when I wish Mrs. Crosfield and
himself length of days, enjoyment and continuous
successful endeavours in their new home on the
Wye, whither they and their Daffodils flit this
summer in their quest of suitable environments.
— Joseph Jacob.
A White Sport of Saxifraga Boydii.— The
statement by M. E. Heinrich, Bavaria, on page 155,
that he has a white sport of the beautiful Saxifraga
Boydii is most interesting, and more interesting
still if in' course of time it proves to be identical
A SUGGESTED ARRANGEMENT FOR A SMALL BORDER OF HARDY ANNUALS, THE
WHOLE TO BE CARPETED WITH DWARF WHITE ALYSSUM.
needle-shaped leaves and yellow flowers. Both
are decidedly interesting and ornamental evergreen
shrubs.— H. P.
A Border of Hardy Annuals. — These plants
are now so popular and their merits so generally
recognised that further introduction seems im-
necessary. The accompanying small sketch has
been prepared to indicate how the seed may be
sown broadcast, so as to avoid the straight line
and formal block system. No pure white clumps
have been introduced because of the ground-
work being white. Where such a plan commends
itself, there may be a desire to duplicate some
favourite varieties, which, of course, can easily
be done by eliminating some of those mentioned.
In the case of sowing a very long border, the whole
or part of this design could be repeated, if so wished,
and in the event of so doing I would suggest
cream, pale blue, or lilac to follow on the yellow
shades. Arrange, if possible, for the border to be
get-at-able from back and front, while very wide
borders should also have stepping places or a
narrow walk so as io facilitate the work of sowing,
thinning and staking. — C. Turner, Ken View
Garden, Highgale.
The Barr Cup for Daffodils.— The Barr Cup,
which commemorates the great work of the late
Peter Barr on behalf of the Daffodil, is awarded
annually bv tin' Royal Horticultural Society as
in habit with the more vigorous-growing S. Boydii
alba. The interest in the case centres chiefly in
the fact that the raiser of S. Boydii first distinctly
stated that this queen of yellow Saxifrages resulted
from two white-flowered sorts — I believe, speaking
from memory, burseriana and rocheliana — and
it was not till the plant flowered at Kew some
years later that the now generally accepted
parentage of burseriana x aretioides was suggested.
Subsequently, when the late Mr. Dewar, then
hardy plant foreman at Kew, wrote the text to
accompany the coloured plate of "S. Boydii in
The Garden, he made the statement — which,
I believe, I have committed to memory aright —
that S. Boydii alba " was obviously of the same
parentage." Now, no two forms are more distinct
than S. Boydii and S. B. alba, and why Mr. Dewar
should have written " obviously " when the thing
was not, and is not, obvious 1 do not know. The
last named is not only distinct in colour and in
the substance of its flowers from S. Boydii ; it is
distinct in stature, and remarkably so in its
vigorous habit of growth and genial nature. In
S. Boydii alba there is nothing to suggest either
burseriana or aretioides influence, though much
to suggest such a combination as burseriana
and rocheliana' — so much so, indeed, that I have
repeatedly wondered whether the raiser had
confused them in his mind. In dn\ I'ase, the
white-flowered biu'seriana would appear to have
entered into both, and a sport or reversion to one
of the originals is by no means imusual. What
is imusual, which makes the case cited by
M. Heinrich doubly interesting, is that he appears
to possess not merely a colour sport, but a growth
sport or reversion also, which, if presently
substantiated, should lend colour to Mr. Boyd's
original statement that his unique plant resulted
from two white-flowered sorts. What I am
curious to know is what this white sport " reported
to The Garden more than fifteen years ago "
has been doing with itself all that time ? It would
appear not to have been the sporting of a solitary
rosette, which might have become crowded out ;
hence my curiosity. Anyway, I sincerely hope
M. Heinrich will get more of these white-
flowered variations, and I trust he will let
the readers of The Garden know about
them. In conclusion, I cannot but con-
gratulate your correspondent upon possessing
a tuft of S. Boydii large enough to make
250 plants. How many such, I wonder, have
ever existed ? — E. H. Jenkins.
Daffodils with Good Lasting Qualities. — In
last week's issue, page 202, a correspondent asks
for a list of some of the best lasters in pots. Of these
i think Queen of Spain easily comes first. Of
course, it is not large or showy, but makes a
delightful little pot plant, and the blooms last
a wonderful time. W. P. Milner, another small
flower, is also a tough little fellow which outlasts
many of his larger brethren. Obvallaris is another.
Maximus is xety good, though not very free-
flowering. King Alfred is another fine laster,
though dear at present for pot work. Blackwell
is a very good pot plant, and stands longer than
many. Emperor lasts as well as most, but to
my mind is rather big for house work. I daresay
your correspondent has noticed that the early
varieties last longer as a general rule than the
later ones. This is on account of the cooler
atmosphere of the room (at any rate at night)
and a less powerful sun. No doubt pulling down
the blind during the sunniest part of the day
would prolong the life of the flowers, but if
overdone the plants would become too tall.
When grown outside, Lucifer is a wonderftil
Daffodil to stand as a cut flower, although it
looks frail. Nearly all white trumpet Daffodils
are quickly over, and the Leedsii are not as
a rule very good. — J. Duncan Pkarson,
Lowdhatn, Notts.
I cannot say that I have ever made any
exact trial of the difierent lasting properties of
Daffodils in pots, but it rather surprises me to
hear " M. E. E.'s " experience with Mme. Plemp
and Victoria. Speaking without a book, I should
have said the latter would be the longer laster,
and it has occurred to me that the box in which
they were grown might possibly account for it.
Lucifer, although it does not look as if it would be,
is a marvellous laster. I doubt if there is any
to beat it. King Alfred and Blackwell are two
more which have the same good property. Of
the cheaper kinds 1 would suggest Homer, Seagull,
Fairy Queen and .Argent. " M. E. E." is right
about Prince of Austria as being a superb Tulip
and a splendid laster. Jenny, Cerise Gris-de-lin,
'Vermilion Brilliant, Arms of Leiden and the
very new De Wet are some that are worth
a trial, and which I think will be found to
give satisfaction. If a double is wanted,
nothing is much better than the old Murilln. —
J. J-
May 2, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
215
Ctaionodoxas Improving when Established.—
l^ressure ol other matters lias prevented ine
Irora stating that during the many years in which
I have cultivated the Glories of the Snow, my
experience has been that they have improved
considerably after being planted. In many cases
newly imported bulbs have done but poorly
for the first year or two, and have greatly improved
afterwards. They love deep planting, as a rule,
and in some cases it appears to take a few years
before they reach their proper depth, which they
often do by means of " droppers," as do some
other bulbs.
Bulbs for Spring Planting.— Mr. Jenkins
(page 191, April 18) has drawn attention to what I
said in including among bulbs for spring planting
the Belladonna Lilies and Alstrceraerias. The
article was not intended as one for
universal treatment of the bulbs men-
tioned, but was written for those who
wished to add to the bulbs they already
liad sorne others not in their possession,
and which might be planted in spring.
So carefully do many bulb dealers keep
their bulbs now that they can be planted
later than formerly, when they had
frequently made a great deal of growth
before spring arrived. The Belladonna
Lilies can often be obtained in quite
good condition for planting m the middle
of March, and so can the Alstroemerias.
The dealers who issue catalogues of
bulbs for spring planting include these,
and can, and do, supply them in good
condition for planting. Personally, I
prefer earlier planting, but very fre-
quently with late-ripening bulbs the
weather is too severe for planting if
they arrive in good time, and I have
often found it well into March before
they could be entrusted to Mother
Earth. As sound general practice, I
always recommend planting most bulbs
as soon as they can be obtained, but
they are often wonderfully accommodat-
ing. I frequently plant Alstroemerias
very late through choice. — S. Arnott.
Fungus Disease on Chionodoza.—
Last year I noticed that one plant of
a small colony of- Chionodoxa sardensis
was undersized and looking generally
unhealthy. A closer inspection showed
tlie anthers to be filled with a quantity
of purplish dust-like spores, similar to
those frequently seen in the anthers of
Silene cucubalus and allied plants. I
submitted the diseased spray to Mr.
Carleton Rea, hon. secretary of the
British Mycological Society, who iden-
tified it as Ustilago Vaillantii (Tul). Apparently this
is the first record of the fungus appearing in Britain.
1 think it is very likely to have been overlooked in
other gardens, and it would be very interesting to
hear of its occurrence elsewhere and if it confines
its attacks to the genus Chionodoxa. This year
1 find two more plants in my little patch are
infected, in spite of immediate removal of the
diseased flowers last year. The mycelium is
probably perennial in the bulb, and I should be
glad to know if there is any way of preventing
its spreading other than by burning the infected
plants. I have a good patch of C. Lucilia; growing
a few yards away, as well as Scilla bifolia and
S. sibirica, but so far these are untouched by the
Ustilago. — Norman G. Hadden, St. Audreys,
Malvern. ITlu- fungus Ustilago Vaillantii is not
new to Kngland, though it is not often noticed.
It was first recorded in "Grevillea" in 1893,
when it occurred in England and in Ireland,
but had been noticed in England six or seven
years before that. It attacks Scilla bifolia, S.
raaritima and possibly some other species of Scilla,
some of the Muscaris and the Chionodoxas, being
perhaps most frequently seen in C. sardensis.
We have had it in our own garden, and have seen
it several times from others. You are quite right
in thinking the mycelium to be perennial in the
bulbs. The bulb base is filled with it, but we do
not think it is liable to spread to other plants.
Like most of the smuts with loose spores, in all
probability the young developing seeds are attacked
before they leave the fruit, and then all through
SAXIFRAGA
AND fTS
BURSERIANA
VARIETIES.
c
NEW HYBRID TEA ROSE; PRINCE CHARMING, SHOWN BY
MESSRS. HUGH DICKSON AT THE SPRING ROSE SHOW IN
LONDON LAST WEEK.
their life the fungus will manifest itself in their
flowers. It is, therefore, safer to remove the
affected plants as soon as they are seen, so as to
reduce the danger of young seedling plants being
attacked. — Ed.
FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
May 5, — Royal Horticultural Society's Exhi-
bition and National Tulip Society's Show. Lecture
at 3 p.m. on " The Value to Gardens of Some of
Mr. Wilson's Introductions from China." Scottish
Horticultural Association's Meeting.
May 7.. — -Linnean Society's Meeting.
May II. — United Horticultural Benefit and
Provident Society's Committee Meeting.
AN those of your correspondents who
doubt the distinctness of the forms
of Burser's Saxifrage be possessed
of the best commercial varieties
of this imique species ? This is
a question which naturally forces
itself to the front, since, if the varieties of this
plant are not as distinct as " chalk from cheese,"
they are certainly as distinct as many so-called
species, and equally so for garden purposes. Some
of your correspondents refer to the " type,"
not knowing, perhaps, that the type of to-day
is a glorified form of that which did duty for it
in former years. The plant that I
knew as S. burseriana for nearly thirty
years was- of a very tufted, cushion-
like habit, the small, creamy white
flowers set on inch-high peduncles.
To-day the type as exhibited is a
vastly superior plant, with whiter and
larger flowers, longer peduncles, and
more glaucous. Beside it the old plant
is not worth growing.
The first great break away was sent
to the late Mr. Selfe Leonard as the
type from " a new locality." This
proved to be the true major variety,
which I always class as the aristocrat
of the lot. This is characterised by large,
sparkling white flowers, the slightly
crimped petals having crenated margins.
It is almost, if not quite, miique in its
meadow-sweet-like fragrance. The habit
of the plant, too, is distinct, in that it
spreads laterally and does not tuft.
The rosettes, too, are large in proportion
to the flowers. That recently shown
as crenata is in the same way in some
respects, but is not so good. Gloria has
considerably larger flowers than major,
but they are flimsy in texture by com-
parison and dead white, minus the
glistening sparkling surface, which is
one of major's greatest charms. Then,
of course, Gloria has a decidedly and
densely cushioned tuft. In size the
latter is only equalled or surpassed by
magna, which has yet to come to the
front. It is also of cushion-like growth.
Speciosa has the smallest rosettes of
leaves, and is the latest to flower.
Reference has also been made to
tridentata, but the name is a mis-
nomer. Whoever saw a Burser's Saxi-
frage with a thrice-parted leaf or
Its correct name is tridentina, which
it takes from the Tridentine Valley, in which it
is found. It is a good and useful form, virtually
a tufted major. Unfortunately, much confusion
has been brought into being by the thoughtless
use of such names as major, grandiflora and the
like being applied to any slightly larger form.
It must not be forgotten, however, that Burser's
Saxifrage is an exceedingly variable plant —
variable in size of flower, flower qualit}', stature,
tufted or spreading habit, and time of flowering.
Does anyone wish for more than these ?
Then, more than one reference has been made
to disbudding. But how can a plant characterised
by one-flowered peduncles be disbudded at
all ? E. H. J.
petal ?
21-6
THE GARDEN.
[May 2, 1914.
SOME BEAUTIFUL POPPY-
WORTS.
THE MECONOPSES.
WHILE it is exceedingly improbable
that this somewhat fastidious
genus of Poppyworts will ever
yield anything more surpass-
ingly beautiful and imposing
than the blue - flowered M.
Wallichii, there is not the least doubt that the
introductions of recent years, while imparting
variety and furthering interest in more than one
department of hardy plant gardening, have done
much to increase the popularity of the group as
a whole. In this connection, doubtless, no species
has played so important a part as M. integrifolia,
discovered a few years ago by Mr. E. H. Wilson
when plant-hunting for Messrs. Veitch in the
high mountain borderland of China and Thibet.
It was a great — indeed, unique — find, while its
importance to gardens — albeit it is not grown by
everyone with success — cannot well be over-
again in the hope that sooner or later we shall
discover the secret of their special needs and
lift the veil from their apparently insatiable
desires. To the precise conditions prevailing
in their mountain home not a few alpines, judged
by their success in lowland gardens, would appear
more or less indifferent, absence of high altitudes,
snow and a protracted definite resting period
affecting them but little.
So much, I fear, cannot be advanced with respect
to all the species of Meconopsis, M. integrifolia,
for example, in some instances apparently influenced
by the long-continued mildness and growing con-
ditions of recent autumns, having shown a desire
to flower close upon the ground at that season.
It has been so here in the humid Thames Valley
practically at sea-level, in the breezier district
of Sheffield bordering on the moors 700 feet above
the sea, and doubtless in other places, and, of
course, these precocious ones are never of use
again. Happily, so far, it is not a large propor-
tion of any batch which flower thus early, and
were it otherwise, tantalising though it would be,
it would have to be endured, seeing it is impossible
no attempt should be made to cultivate it imder
glass, a pernicious system destined to rob the
plant of its finer colour attributes and mar the
general effect.
As is common with all plants raised from seeds,
variations both of leaf colour and form occur
among these Meconopses, with, in some instances,
slight colour deterioration. The worst offender that
I have known in this respect is M. racemosa, some
of the shades of colour being positively vile. What
the progeny of such would be would not be easy
to predict. To save seeds from the best of them
in order to perpetuate the good remaining is the
natural recommendation in such a case, though
it would be not less interesting or instructive
did someone raise a generation or two of these
retrogrades in order to ascertain what latent
influence there still remained. In the cross-
breeding of certain types of florists' flowers it is
well known that in the first generation seedlings
of a retrograde character are the rule, the superior
flowers following from these retrogrades a genera-
tion later. One wonders whether some irLfluence
akin lies hidden in the inner recesses of some of
these Poppyworts. The point is
certainly worth deciding.
E. H. Jenkins.
{To be continued.)
DAFFODIL NOTES.
THE ROYAL HORTICUL-
TURAL SOCIETY'S 1914
SHOW.
F
TULIPA STELLATA, A BEAUTIFUL LITTLE SPECIES WITH YELLOW AND RED FLOWERS. THIS
AN AWARD OF MERIT WHEN SHOWN BY MESSRS. BARR AND SONS IN LONDON LAST
estimated. Prior to its coming there was nothing
like it, and since that time no species has been
introduced to equal it.
In my opinion, we have within the limits of
these twain, whether regarded from the stand-
points of imposing grandeur or flower beauty,
the pick of the whole genus. They rank high in
the estimation of all gardeners who know their
worth. Nor does one's love or appreciation
diminish one iota because of the difficulties sur-
rounding their cultivation, or because failure,
either partial or complete, characterises our efforts
concerning them. Rather are we in admiration
drawn nearer to them, trying them again and
to prevent it. At the same time a number of
plants so flowering militates against the good
effect that might have been in other circumstances.
To some extent this inclmation to premature
flowering may also be due to a check — a standstill
condition it may bs — during dry weather ; and
seeing that these plants are moisture-loving by
nature, care should be exercised that they do not
suffer from lack of it at any time during the
developing season of the rosettes.
Doubtless we have much yet to leam of the
likes and dislikes of this fine plant, for which at
its best no praise is too great. Not the least of
its merits is that of complete hardiness ; hence
OR the third time of
asking the Royal Horti-
cultural Society has had
a Daffodil show in the
large hall in Vincent
Square. There is no
impediment that 1 can see in the
way of this being the start of a long
series of annual exhibitions. That
which is now under review was full
of encouragement. Never have I
seen the hall so full of Daffodils.
The trade response was grand. The
competitive classes attracted more
entries than on either of the two
previous occasions. Altogether it was
a Daffodil show the like of which has
never been seen in London before.
Yet some of us must have been
conscious all the time of there being
something wanting. We sadly missed
the magnificent trumpet exhibit of
Mr. E. H. Krelage and the superb
exhibits of Mr. E. M. Crosfield. What
a lot salmon-fishing will have to
answer for ! 1 do not mind it taking
the Foreign Secretary from the House of Commons,
but it is a different matter when it keeps a .,
Crosfield from our great annual show. ■
And then, poor Miss Currey was an absentee. ■!
Owing to ill health her choice and valuable collec-
tion had to be dispersed last autumn. Never
again will there be a Lismore exhibit with its
characteristic display of bright red eyes and
refined white trumpets. To see " Tommy "
Jones busying about brought back memories
of the past, for it was he who in later years always
arranged her blooms.
The distinguishing features of the show were,
first, the number of trade exhibits. Two — those
RECEIVED
WEEK.
May 2, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
217
of Messrs. Barr and Sons and Messrs. J. Carter
and Co. — received the very exceptional honour
of gold medals. The rewards were the same,
but the displays were totally different. Barrs
had a more or less conventional group, with a
centre full of seedlings and choice varieties in
small quantities or as single blooms, while on
either side were large vases of the cheaper and
more plentiful ones. Carters gave us a sample
of Daffodils in masses under trees. Some may
scoff at such efforts and talk in Robinsonian
lingo of the artificiality that must necessarily
be theirs ; but I see in these stiff masses an
educational purpose which it is
impossible to achieve in any other
way in the limitations of an exhi-
bition hall, namely, the general
effect of the different kinds when
planted in a mass. Suttons de-
parted from anything I have ever
seen them do, inasmuch as their
small, artistically arranged group
was composed entirely of their own
seedlings.
Mr. Watts of St. Asaph filled a
large space against the wall im-
mediately on the right of the entrance
door. He had many new seedlings
of his own raising, together with
large masses of some of the best
trade varieties. I mention this group
because I instinctively couple it
with the many flowers, of which a
very large proportion must have
been seedlings, that he exhibited
in the competitive classes. For
some years we have seen this
gentleman's "home-made" blooms
in London, Birmingham and else-
where ; but the time seems to have
now arrived when he is able to
exhibit them " on a grand scale."
It is hardly necessary for me to
speak of the increased interest that this will give.
In former notes I have spoken of the efforts
of Mr. Bourne to get away from the " formal
and bank-like arrangement of groups hitherto
adopted." His exhibit marked the high water
of his endeavours, and his display called forth
many remarks of appreciation. Its general plan
was as follows : A brown velvet curtain at the
back, with green covering for the top of the staging
and the tiered half circles, which gave it its most
distinguishing features.
Next in order to the trade exhibits, which both
because of their number and their quality mark
off the London show from all others, I would
like to deal with the competition in the second
and third sections of the schedule. It was good.
Only in one class out of twenty-four was there
no entry, while in all but two there was some
competition, culminating in no fewer than six
collections being staged in Class 55 for thirty-six
varieties. I have taken some pains to make a
little inventory of all the varieties in the amateur
and novice classes that gained first and second
prizes, and in the large one just mentioned
(Class 55) of the third prize collection also. In
these twenty-four classes there were 173 varieties
distributed among the above prize-winners. Of
times : Weardale Perfection. Nine times : Lady
Margaret Boscawen. Seven times : Noble and
King Alfred. Six times : Lord Roberts, Homer,
Argent and Horace. Five times : Evangeline,
Mme. de Graaff, Orangeman and Homespun.
Four times : Bernardino, Incognita, Golden
Rose, Florence Pearson, Glory of Noordwijk,
Seagull, Virgil and Lucifer. Three times : Ptar-
migan, Cassandra, The Colonel, Harold Finn,
AN ANNUAL FOR SANDY
SO I L.
THE PORTULACA.
There are many amateurs who have to contend
with a very light, sandy soil, which in hot seasons
seems to dry up in almost no time, and so causes
endless labour with the watering-can. Ground
White Queen, Bennett-Poe, Queen of .Spain, White like this can, of course, be greatly improved by
Lady, Lowdham Beauty, Diana, Whitewell, a liberal addition of heavy clay or loam and cow-
Pilgrim, Beacon, Sunrise, Solfatare, Plenipo, I manure ; but if the garden is of any size, this
Chryseis, Gloria Mundi and van Waveren's Giant, i works out very expensive, and consequently
A MAGNIFICENT GROUP OF MECONOPSIS INXEGRIFOLIA IN THE GARDENS OF MR. W. A. MILNER,
TOTLEY HALL, SHEFFIELD.
Twice : Sulphur Phoenix, Elvira, Barrii con-
spicuus, Mrs. H. J. Veitch, Torch, Monarch,
Waterwitch, Candidata, Vivid, Royalty, Albatross,
Dorothy Kingsmill, Giraffe, Olympia, Armorel.
Mrs. R. Sydenham, Bullfinch, Branston, Marguerite
Durand, Phyllis, Sidney, Dante, Ideal, Lemon
Queen, Castile and Barcarolle.
The last feature that I have room to touch
upon (I am leaving details of the more important
novelties till my next) is the record number of
varieties that were placed before the Narcissus
committee for awards. I did not count them,
but I have been told there were more than fifty.
Anyhow, they were so many that a special sub-
committee was appointed to do some weeding
out. Eight plants gained awards, viz., Lady
Superior, a white-perianthed Barrii ; Nightingale,
a well-formed early Poet ; Scarlet Gem, a brilliant
red-eyed Poetaz with yellow perianth ; Golden
Sceptre, a Jonquilla hybrid, figured in the r9i3
" Daffodil Year Book " as Marigold ; Morven, a
pale bicolor Ajax ; Princess Juliana, a deep
yellow Ajax with a boldly edged trumpet ;
Southern Gem, a pale Giant Leedsii ; and
Admiration, a tall, striking yellow and red Poetaz.
Of these awards, that of Admiration was for the
garden and that of Southern Gem for the garden
these, only sixty-five were staged more than once , and cutting, while the remainder were for show. The
and thirty-nine more than twice. As statistics prizewinners in the various classes were dealt with
similar to what 1 have got out seem generally
popular, I feel I cannot do better than publish
in the report that was published last week. In a
subsequent issue the novelties at the Birmingham
the results of my census in detail. Shown ten \ show will receive attention.
Joseph Jacok.
in most places only a small portion can be done
at a time.
Now, although most kinds of plants delight
in a medium loam, there are a few which thrive
well in that of a very light nature, and the Portu-
iacas are one of these. They are dwarf-growing
little subjects, eminently suited for rockeries
or for edgings, and are best sown in the open
border where they are intended to bloom ; but,
being half-hardy annuals, they must not be put
in until all danger of frost is over and the weather
appears settled. The latter half of May is about
the best time, and a position ~^u!ly exposed to
the sun must be allotted them. Sow the seed
thinly in rows about six inches apart, so that
the surface soil can be easily stirred and weeds
kept down. Should the summer prove excep-
tionally hot and dry, watering might become
necessary ; but it is very doubtful, as the hotter
the sun the more brilliant will be the display of
flowers. Any amateurs who have very light soils
would do well to give this splendid little plant
a trial, as the sandier the soil the better it will
flourish, and during the whole season it demands
practically no attention at the hands of the culti-
vator. Seed can be obtained of both double
and single varieties, and can be had in the following
separate colours — crimson, yellow, and white ;
but I think the mixed is preferable to the separate
shades, as it gives such an endless variety, which
all blend so well together.
Troon, Ayrshire. G. B. W.
218
THE GARDEN.
[May 2, 1914.
GARDEN VARIETIES
ABUTILON.
OF
T
, HERE are few, if any, greenhouse
climbers more continuous flowering
than the Abutiions, as they will com-
mence to bloom from the spring and
continue till autumn is well advanced,
while if a temperature of 50° to 60°
be maintained, they will flower even later than that.
What is more, they are available for other purposes
besides roof and rafter plants, for neat bushy
specimens from 18 inches to a yard or even more
in height are exceedingly useful
for greenhouse decoration. If
struck from young growing shoots
in the spring, they will form effec-
tive little plants in 6-inch pots
towards the end of the summer,
and are then particularly valuable
for the sake of variety.
Another way of treating .\bu-
tilons is to grow them as
standards, and in this manner
they are. from the pendulous
nature of their blossoms, seen to
considerable advantage. In this
way they are particularly valuable
for grouping in the greenhouse or
conservatory. The cultural require-
ments of the Abutilons are not at
all exacting, as they will thrive in
ordinary potting compost. It is,
however, as well to bear in mind
that they are fairly liberal feeders,
and if at all starved at the roots,
some of the leaves are sure to turn
yellow and drop.
The great variety that we have
now in the garden forms of Abutilon
would seem to have originated in
the pure white Boule de Neige,
which, though sent out as long ago
as 1872, is still one of the very best
of that tint. It was sent out by
M. Lemoine et Fils of Nancy, and
though that firm, with their well-
kno%vn courtesy, endeavoured, for
my information, to trace its origin,
they were unable to do so. The
advent of a white-flowered form
iled to the possibility of pink 01
rose coloured kinds, and in due
course the variety rosaeflorum made
ts appearance. Although I am not
aware of its origin, there is but little
doubt it was the result of a cross
between Boule de Neige and the
orange red A. Darwinii, a native of
BrarU. That the union of these two
tints should result in the production
of pink flowers is somewhat singular, but a parallel
case is to be foimd in Rhododendron Princess Royal,
which was obtained by crossing the white-flowered
R. jasminiflorum and the orange red R. javanicum.
Another instance is furnished by Begonia weltoni-
ensis, a pink flower whose parents were B. Dregei,
with white blossoms, and B. Sutherlandii, in which
they are a kind of coppery yellow. Once Abutilons
of these distinct colours were obtained, others
some of the purplish tints being very striking.
The raising of Abutilons from seeds is very
interesting, especially if the crossing is carried out
in a systematic manner. Plants from seed sown
early in the spring will flower the same year, but
in the case of any doubt as to the quality of a
particular individual, it mil be policy to flower it
a second season. Of well-recognised varieties it
will be hard to beat Boule de Neige (white). Golden
Fleece (yellow), Sanglant (deep red), Anna Crozy
(purplish). Royal Scarlet (light scarlet) and ros«-
florum (rose). Some of the newer varieties, %vith
large, shallow, widely opened flowers, are less
pendulous than the older kinds, and by no means as
HARDY PERENNIALS IN
SMALL GARDENS.
I
AURICULA GORDON DOUGLAS. A BEAUTIFUL NEW VARIETY WITH
RICH YELLOW AND BRONZE FLOWERS.
graceful. While the above remarks apply to the
Abutilon as a flowering subject, there are some
remarkable for their handsome leafage, and for this
reason alone they are extensively grown. Chief
among these are Savitzii, whose leaves are clearly
variegated with white ; Souvenir du Bonn, a more
vigorous grower with less variegation : and
Thompsonii, the foliage of which is mottled with
gold. The variegated-leaved variety of A. mega-
followed suit, and numerous varieties were quicldy j potamicum or vexillarium is also very striking,
put into commerce. Several Continental raisers ■ while of the original species, A. striatum, whose
took them in hand, and in this country the late 1 rich yellow flowers are veined with crimson, affords
Mr. George of Putney raised many beautiful lands, ' a pleasing variety. H. P.
T is frequently somewhat glibly stated that
herbaceous plants will yield a constant
and plentiful supply of flowers from spring
to autumn, and certainly this is true,
provided one has an extensive garden
devoted to a thoroughly representative
collection, cultivated with skill and painstaking
care ; but it has to be admitted that often in a
small garden we see herbaceous borders which
are but intermittently gay, and sometimes for
weeks on end are almost bare of
bloom. In many an impulsive de-
nunciation of formal bedding we
have been told that Paeonies, Irises,
Delphiniums or Phloxes are beyond
comparison with Geraniums, Calceo-
larias and Lobelia ; but if the
centre bed of a small garden is
given over to either of these sub-
jects, the result in the long run
is apt to be disappointing. The
Paeonies are gay for a fortnight
or three weeks, and more or less
untidy and dull for the rest of
the year, and the same drawback
applies to the other subjects
quoted. Even in a mixed border
of small dimensions there is a risk
of frequent gaps and scarcity of
flowers that in time palls on one.
and, maybe, leads to a return to
orthodox bedding.
By the exercise of forethought
and judgment, however, it is
possible to realise one's ambitions
for a continuous display of colour
and beauty, even in a restricted
area, by the use of hardy perennials
alone, and with this end in view
no plan is so entirely satisfactorj'
as that of carpeting the ground
with some low-growing subject,
thinly interspersing plants of taller,
erect habit to flower at difierent
periods. For instance, a bed may
be carpeted with the rosy-flowered
Saponaria ocymoides or Dianthus
deltoides, and over the surface of
the bed plants of Delphiniums
may be thinly distributed. Between
these some bulbs of Galtonia candi-
cans or some hybrid Gladioli
may be planted, and the result
of such a combination of tall plants
with a carpet of close - growing
subjects will be that the bed is
never bare, but always attractive.
Veronica rupestris, Cerastium
and CEnothera missouriensis are
other suitable subjects for carpeting, and we may
have Camassias, Montbretias, Liliums or Liatris
pycnostachya for companions to any of these
plants.
A charming little plant for bedding is Chasno-
stoma hispida, forming compact little bushes less
than a foot high, clothed with a mass of starry
white flowers. The plant blooms incessantly,
and if some such thing as Lobelia fulgens or
Chelone barbatus is planted at intervals in the
bed, the charm of both subjects is enhanred
by the companionship.
Biebersteinii
May 2, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
219
Dwarf Antirrhinums or Pentstemon Newbury
Gem will make a grand display in a bed upon
the lawn ; but if in early summer Spanish and
English Irises occupy the bed, and in the autumn
a few choice Phloxes grown on single stems are
seen, interest is greatly enhanced, and neither the
Antirrhinums nor Pentstemons need suffer. The
chief point to observe in planting beds on such
lines as these is, first, to plant thinly and then
to watch progress, restricting when necessary
such plants as tend to encroach too much upon
the space that should be occupied by other things.
One great advantage of this system of bedding
is that replanting only needs to be done about
once in three years, and it is also a plan that
dispenses with the necessity of glass accommodation
for the plants in winter. Heather Bell,
SEASONABLE WORK
AMONG ROSES.
likely to be strained by wind and rains. Suckers
will be pushing from young standard Roses, and
all shoots below the worked shoulders should be cut
out as soon as they can be got at. There is much
greater danger of wind breaking the shoots in the
case of maiden standards, and all of these need
sticks in some form. More persistent heading
is advisable here. Several methods of securing
are practised, but the one most in favour is a
stake of sufficient length and strength to admit
of the stem being soundly tied, and with a
top long enough to carry the young Rose
growth also. As no swaying of the Briar
stem is desirable, it pays to take this little
e.\tra precaution and make a good job of the
whole from the first.
Disbudding. — By the end of May many of our
forward plants will need thinning out, i.e.,
taking away any young shoots that have a tendency
to grow inwards or are too numerous for proper
or perfect development. This is all the more
important with the exhibitor's blooms, who needs
and in not a few instances eggs and germs, with
a few insects, often survive the winter in thick
growth under the eaves. I would strongly advise
the thorough cleansing of such places immediately
after pruning, when a more powerful solution
might be used than would be safe as growth
commences. Cleanliness and careful ventilation
are the main points with our indoor Roses, which
should now be in full profit. A. P.
A SHRUBBY CAPE ASTER.
Aster fruticosus.
Of this extensive genus the section known as
Michaelmas Daisies is so common in our gardens
that any description of the plants is unnecessary.
There is, however, another section containing
a few species with a shrubby habit, most of which
are natives of South Africa ; therefore they require
the protection of a greenhouse during the colder
part of the year. A, fruticosus is certainly a ven/
THIS is the time when work among our
outdoor Roses commences in earnest.
Pruning is finished, and the very
latest of any except pot planting
done. Then there is the spring
mulching to complete, and, if this
is done early, we get full benefit throughout the
growing season. So far as the selection of manures
is concerned, we need to pay most attention to the
natural character of the soil. Roses enjoy almost
any manures, but it is better to put the stiffest
upon light and porous soils, with a leaning in
the other direction if naturally on the stiff
and cloggy side. But there have been quite a
number of practical notes upon manures
lately, and I only wish to remind readers now
of their greater benefit when used at this time
of the year.
Very soon our maiden plants will need special
attention, and much of their future depends
upon how they are handled from now onwards.
Where bushy plants are sought, the buds producing
only one growth from the eye should be headed
as soon as two or three leaves have fairly developed.
Most of the Teas and Hybrid Teas push out more
than one bud, and are afterwards more free in
breaking from the base than the majority of our
Hybrid Perpetuals. Due care should be taken
not to head a few varieties that produce their
best flower from the first shoot in their maiden
stages. Let these develop a good flower, and
cut this off boldly to within three or four of the
bottom eyes when wanted. You will thus secure
the finest flower, and generally get a good bottom
made for the following year.
Staking. — Unless quite dwarf and robust
growers, all should be staked as soon as the Rose
eyes push into growth. Do not make the mistake
of using unsuitable sticks. The growth of maidens
varies so much that sticks or stakes ranging from
2 feet to 8 feet are needed, and it is folly to put
the taller ones to the wrong purpose or have the
shortest against climbers. A very little thought
will avoid this. Do not draw the growth in
to the stick with any force. The young shoots
need a certain amount of coaxing in the first
tie if inclined to grow widely, and they break
out very easily.
Keep some good and well-worked soil drawn
around the base of dwarfs, as this will assist a
better union and keep the whole soft and less
A RARE SHRUBBY PLANT FROM THE CAPE : ASTER FRUTICOSUS,
RELATED TO THE MICHAELMAS DAISIES.
THIS IS CLOSELY
to curtail quite as much in the number of young
breaks as in the number of flower-buds allowed,
all the strength going into a less number in order
to get the highest quality.
Insect Pests. — Immediately leaves develop upon
any shoots, it is well to wash them, even if not
attacked by insects or disease. So much depends
upon being in time with this work, and the maxim
of prevention being better than cure, that no loss
is incurred although the pests are not visible.
Washing early prevents them from gaining any
hold, and cannot be done too soon. At the same
time, much less labour and strength of washings
are needed than if the enemy is delayed only a
week or so after its first appearance. It is upon
warm walls and in sheltered corners that we find
our first supply of aphides, and these will soon
increase and stock the neighbourhood if allowed
any rest. .A more persistent and early use of the
syringe is all the more needed in such positions,
because they are less open to cleansing rains,
desirable pot plant, and although it is recorded to
have been cultivated as long ago as 1759 in English
gardens, it is apparently very rare at the present
time.
The plant forms a small shrub from 2 feet
to 3 feet high, the woody stems branching out
in a zigzag manner^ The short, dark green leaves
are thickly borne upon the young branches, from
which the flowers are freely produced upon slender
peduncles during March and April, remaining
in a fresh condition for a couple of months. Indi-
vidually the flowers are about an inch in diameter,
with the ray florets of a pleasing purple colour,
and bright yellow centre florets. Useful specimens
may be grown in 5-inch pots in a compost of loam,
leaf-soil and sand, while propagation may be
effected by cuttings of the young wood, which
root readily in sandy soil, placing them under a
bell-glass. Other names by which this plant is
sometimes known are A. fruticulosus and
Diplopappus pedunculatus. W. T.
220
THE GARDEN.
[May 2, 1914.
PEACHES AND POT PLANTS
GROWING IN THE SAME
HOUSE.
M
ANY amateur gardeners possessing
greenhouses like to grow a Peacli
tree or more, according to tlie size
of the structure, in addition to the
usual kinds of pot plants. Some
cultivators meet ivith difficulties and
fail to get full satisfaction from the Peaches and
the pot plants ; others succeed verj' well. Much
has to depend on the situation, but
more on the management, generally.
At the present time the Peach trees
will need the final thinning out of
the young shoots and also the removal
of some of the young fruits ; but
the final thinning out of the latter
must be put off until the stones have
hardened in them. Nature rights
itself, as it were, to a great extent.
For instance, if a Peach or Nectarine
tree — and, in fact, any other kind of
fruit tree — is overladen with young
fruits, when the stoning period comes
many are cast off, sufficient numbers
remaining on to come to maturity.
They are, however, always a little
below the average size, and the tree,
in perfecting the crop, is checked
and much w-eakened. No tree should
be put to such a strain, and that is
the reason why cultivators commence,
while the fruits are small, to gradually
remove all except those sufficient
to form a good average crop. The
trees bearing such crops are not
weakened, and are strong enough to
continue to perfect such crops year
after year. It is only advisable to
leave a crop on a little above the
average — one fruit to a square foot
of wall or wire surface — in the case
of young trees possessing extra vigour.
The result of the heavy burden is, of
course, to check such luxuriant growth
and to bring the tree to a more
normal condition — one suitable for
bearing good crops every year.
Of pot plants, such as Ferns and
Streptocarpi may be grown very well
if placed where there is least light
under the trees. Fuchsias also do well ;
so do Gloxinias, Francoa ramosa
(Bridal Wreath), tuberous Begonias
and' some of the fibrous section.
These must be grown on a low stage,
or on boards placed on bricks on tht
border. When pot plants are grown
on the stage over the border ir
which the roots of the fruit trees are growing,
there is sure to be a constant drip when the
plants are watered from time to time. The result
is a soured surface soil of the border. Counteract
its bad effect by carefully scraping off the top crust
only, and then scatter a small quantity of dry
unslaked lime on it.
With regard to ventilation, the contents of
the house considered to be of most importance
must have first consideration. Usually air can
be admitted from this date, which will
prove beneficial to both Peaches and pot
plants.
Watering the border soil is a very important than either the type or its variety grandiflora.
matter, as the surface may he moist while the soil To good hardy climbers it is an additional plant
helow is really dry. George Garner. j of merit and distmction. From Messrs. George
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Jackman and Sons, Woking.
Antirrhinum Melrose. — This is an obviously
NEW AND RARE PLANTS, r. .bust-growing form ot the majus type, a pink-
flowering and — it is said — perpetual-flowering
AWARDS OF MERIT. variety to boot. It has been exhibited on more
Pyrus Malus floribunda purpurea. — A very than one occasion of late, and the question that
showy and good \ariety of a well-known plant, naturally arises is : Would not other varieties
The colour of the flowers, however, is red, not purple, ! specially treated do just the same? As sho\vn
as might he imagined from the name. Exhibited 1 it was very charming, and of a delightful pink
by Mr. R. C. Notcutt, Woodbridge, Suffolk. | shade. It is, we believe, grown largely in America.
From Messrs. W. Wells and Co..
Merstham.
Campanula cenisia alba. — Those
who know the great charm of the
typical rock-lo\dng Campanula cenisia
will welcome this pure white form ol
it, which is at once good and choice.
That it may baffle the attempts of the
amateur at the start, %ve are quite
prepared to admit ; but if those who
seek to grow it to perfection will
starve it, make it what it really is, a
purely saxatile species, all will be well.
It is really a delightful plant. From
Messrs. R. Tucker and Sons, Oxford.
Polyanthus Orange King. — The
solitary plant shown of this evidenced
a remarkable break in colour, com-
bined with great vigour. The dominant
colour shades are orange and red,
with a groundwork of old gold colour-
ing. It is many years since an award
has been granted to a variety cf
this proup, but no plant has . more
justly merited it than the above. From
Mrs. Ellis, Lincoln.
Hydrangea Lillie Mouilliere. — A
deep pink-flowered variety of consider-
able attractiveness and merit. It is
apparently an easy doer. From Messrs.
.Stuart Low and Co., Enfield.
Tulipa stellata. — \ delightful plant
in every way. The dominant colour of
the rather long, lance-shaped petals is
golden, the exterior of the outer petals
flamed scarlet and bordered with
white. A charming rock garden plant.
From Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent
Garden, W.C.
All the foregoing were shown before
the floral committee of the Royal
Horticultural Society on the 21st ult.,
when the awards were made.
Primula Ville de Nancy. — .A. very
showy novelty with rich rose carmine
flowers, whose pronounced lacerated
petals produce a distinctly fringed
characteristic. The new - comer is
apparently one of the coftusoides x
Veitchii hybrids, and in the soft do\vny foliage
bears strong resemblance to the last-named
species. From Messrs. Piper, Bayswater and
Barnes.
Amygdalus persica rosea flore pleno pendula. —
A fine standard of this, with stem 7 feet or so high,
was shown to demonstrate the good pendulous
habit of the variety. The flowers are rich rose
colour and very attractive. .Shown by Mr. L. R.
Russell, Richmond.
These two novelties were granted awards oi
merit by the Royal Horticultural Snriety on
April 15.
ANTIRRHINUM MELROSE, A NEW ROSE PINK VARIETY
SAID TO BE PERPETUAL FLOWERING.
Arabis aubrietioides Trevor Seedling. — A
particularly good deep-coloured variety of a
valuable rock plant, which will be welcomed by
all lovers of choice hardy flowers. The plant is
vigorous in habit and free-flowering, and, rightly
used, is capable of creating new features in rock
or wall garden scenery. From Mrs. E. Lloyd
Edwards, Bryn Oerog, near Llangollen.
Clematis montana superba. — Some half-dozen
specimen plants of this fine variety of the Mountain
Clematis were shown in conjunction with the
typical kind to display their worth. The flowers
are snow white, larger and much purer in colour
May 2, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
221
RAISING
ORCHIDS
SEED.
FROM
ONE of the most progressive signs
i in horticulture is the fact that in
I almost every garden there is a
' desire to improve the different
classes of plants, and to this end
thousands of seedlings are raised
annually. Orchids are no exception to this rule,
and as seeds of most rare plants are usually offered
SEEDLING ORCHIDS POTTED SEPARATELY IN SMALL
POTS. SOME ARE SHOWN PLUNGED IN A LARGE
PAN OF COCOANUT FIBRE REFUSE.
for sale, I see no reason why the great Orchid
firms should not do likewise. The price, of course,
would depend upon the value of the plants used
for crossing and the possibilities of securing a
percentage of good varieties out of the resultant
seedlings. Plants with seed-pods have already
been offered for sale, and if amateurs could buy
seed, there would, no doubt, be a great impetus
given to the trade.
The illustration above shows a pan of
Cypripedium seedlings a few months old, the
largest being placed singly in 2-inch pots
and the smallest plants two in a pot. I
have chosen Cypripediums because they are easily
raised, and any amateur who contemplates taking
up this interesting branch of orchidology would
do well if he or she started with Cypripediums,
or any of the terrestrial kinds.
When to Sow. — Seed should be sown, directly
it is ripe, around the base of older plants belonging
to the same genus for preference, although this
is not essential. Select a specimen that will not
require repotting for at least twelve months,
and see that the surface is free from moss or any
growth that is likely to choke the seedlings or
impede germination. The soil ought to be just
below the rim of the pot ; then there is not so much
fear of the seed being washed away. Several plants
should be picked out for this purpose, because
it often happens in the most up-to-date establish-
ments that seedlings only germinate on one pot
or seed-bed.
How to Sow. — After giving the host plant a
good watering, the seed may be sprinkled evenly
over the soil with the blade of an ordinary knife.
From now onwards the soU must never become
dry, but extreme care should be exercised in giving
water. If seed is sown in only a few pots, the
receptacle may bi' stJind in saucers of water
until it rises to the surface, and, failing this
method, a fine-rosed watering-pot can be employed.
With ordinary care and attention, germination
will take place in six weeks or two months, as a
general rule ; but the grower must not be impatient
in this respect, as I have known seedlings to
appear twelve months and even longer after the
time of sowing the seed.
Removing the Seedlings. — When they have
made one or two tiny leaves, they may be removed
with a pointed stick and placed singly in a 3-inch
pot, as shown at the bottom of the illustration.
The pots are filled with sphagnum
moss, cut up rather finely, and all
the large heads are picked off
when sorting out the rubbish and
slugs. When all the seedlings have
been planted, the pots are plunged
in some old peat or other
moisture - holding material, as
sho%vn in the first illustration, and
lightly sprayed over directly the
moss looks dry. As growth
advances, larger receptacles must
be provided, and a little fibrous
peat incorporated with the
sphagnum moss. It is essential
that the plants should be kept
continually growing until they
reach the flowering stage. A
moist, buoyant atmosphere must be
maintained, especially during the
spring and summer months, and
a minimum temperature of 55° to
60° Falir. Shade them from all
strong simlight, and never allow
them to suffer from dryness at the roots. An
important factor in the raising and growing of
Orchid seedlings is cleanliness, for, if once they get
a bad attack of thrip, it takes them a long time
to recover. Where this pest is present, the
house must be vaporised at once, and another
good plan is to spray the plants with a
solution of some reliable insecticide at fortnightly
intervals. T. W. B.
AURICULAS FROM SEED.
The enthusiastic grower of Auriculas will be
anxious to raise some seedlings, and at this season,
when these beautiful flowers are appearing,
a short note on the subject may be useful, for the
late Mr. Ben Simonite says a man is not worthy
of the name of florist if he does nothing in the way
of seedlijig-raising to
and cream centred kinds. Having selected
an Auricula which it is iutended to use as
the mother plant, the anthers must be removed
with a pair of sharp-pointed scissors before
the pollen is distributed. When performing this
operation, hold the plant is such a position
that none of the pollen cases falls down the tube.
After two or three days the stigma of the prepared
flowers may be dusted over with pollen from
another bloom, using a fine camel-hau: brush to
convey the pollen. The seed should be sown
directly it is ripe, viz., about July and August,
in seed-pans or ordinary flower-pots. These are
filled one-third of their depth with drainage, and the
usual potting compost employed. Germination is
sometimes rather slow, and after pricking off the first
batch the seed-pans may still be retained, because
other seedlings will eventually appear. When
the young plants have made their first leaf after
the two seed leaves, they can be pricked off at the
rate of about a dozen in a 3-inch pot. As growth
advances they should be placed three in a similar
sized receptacle, and at the next potting one in a
pot, while a 3i-inch or 4-inch will be large enough
for their final move. It usually takes about
eighteen months for a seedling to reach its full size.
A suitable rooting medium consists of good fibrous
loam two parts, leaf-mould one part, and decayed
cow-manure one part, which ought to be well
mixed three weeks or so before it is required. S.
ERICA AUSTRALIS.
Among the early flowering Tree Heaths this
species is deserving of notice, as it follows in
succession those fine and now fairly well-known
species E. arborea, E. codouodes and E. Veitchii,
although distinct by reason of the colour of its
flowers, which are purplish red and produced in
great profusion from March to July. In height
it grows from 4 feet to 6 feet. A fine colony of
this in full flower, associated with the other species
noted, attracted my attention in a Heath border
in Dr. Wallis' garden at East Grinstead, Sussex ;
while as an edging to these taller-growing species,
masses of E. camea, E. cinerea and many others gave
promise of an interesting and attractive feature to
be continued for some time hence. Where space
allows, a Heath border can be made, one of the
most interesting features in a garden, as the wealth
of material capable of being utilised, as well as the
extended flowering period, provides a display of
colour through nearly all the months of the year.
Lindfieiii E. S.
improve the flowers
he cultivates.
The selecrion of
parents is very im-
portant, and only
the best varieties
should be crossed.
It is also advisable to
mate a green-edged
variety with anothei
belonging to the same
group ; selfs should
be crossed with selfs,
and so on ; while
among the alpines
the yellow - centred
forms should be
crossed together, and
this remark also
applies to the white
SEEDLING ORCHIDS AT
INCREASED SIZE
THE PLANTS.
VARIOUS STAGES OF GROWTH. NOTE THE
OF THE POTS ACCORDING TO THE SIZE OF
222
THE GARDEN.
[May 2, 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
Plum and Cherry Trees in Pots. — Trees which
are carrying a good crop of fruit may now receive
more liberal treatment. Give frequent applications
of liquid manure, and always in sufficient quantity
to reach the extremities of the roots. Syringe the
trees twice daily and shut up the house early in
the afternoon, making the most of sun -heat.
Disbudding must be carefully performed, removing
all superfluous and misplaced shoots as soon as
possible, but it is a mistake to remove too many
at one time.
Early Peach and Nectarine Trees in Pots. —
The fruits on these trees will now be approaching
the ripening stage and should be fully exposed
to the sun. A temperature of 65° or 70° at night
will suit them well. As the fruits are ripening,
syringing should be discontinued, and the ventila-
tors left slightly open at night.
Late Vines. — The Vines in late houses require
disbudding, and the most forward growths should
be stopped in order to distribute the sap evenly
over the Vine. Do not allow the shoots to come
in contact with the glass, or they may become
damaged by scalding. If the borders are restricted,
careful attention will be necessary, so that the
Vines may not suffer from want of moisture at
the roots. In the case of shy-setting varieties,
this must be carefully observed, so that no watering
of the border will be necessary during the flowering
period.
Plants Under Glass.
Humea elegans. — Plants which have been
wintered in 6-nich pots will now be ready for
their final potting. Let the pots be clean and
thoroughly drained. A compost of turfy loam
and leaf-soil in equal parts, mixed with rough
silver sand and wood-ashes, will suit them well,
and this should be made moderately firm about
the roots. Water the plants a day previous to
potting, and if the soU is in good condition, no
further watering should be necessary before the
roots have reached the edge of the pots, when a
good watering may be given. Grow the plants
in an intermediate house until re-established,
after which they may be used for the conservatory
or greenhouse." Humea plants intended for the
flower garden may be allowed to remain in 6-ineh
pots until the time arrives for placing them in
the open.
Caladiums. — Young plants started in small pots
should not be allowed to become root-bound,
but should be potted into larger pots as soon as
ready. The soil may consist of turfy loam, peat
and leaf-soil in equal parts, with sufficient rough
sand to keep it open. Water sparingly until the
roots are through the new soil, after which a good
soaking may be given. Caladiums grow best in a
warm, moist atmosphere, and should be protected
from strong sun.
Salvia splendens. — Young seedlings raised early
in the year should be potted as soon as ready,
in order to encourage clean, healthy growth.
Rich loam and leaf-soil, with a good sprinkling of
sand, will suit them well. Place the plants in a
close cool pit for a few days after potting, but
as the season advances they may be gro\vn in
the open. Stake each plant separately, and secure
to a wire as a protection against rough wind.
Gloxinias. — Young plants should be carefully
potted up before they become pot-bound. With
increased svmshine, more atmospheric moisture
will be necessary, but overhead syringing should
be discontmucd as the flowers begin to open.
Successional plants ought to be potted up as they
become ready, and never allowed to become
cramped for want of root room.
The Flower Garden.
Standard Plants intended for the flower garden
will now be ready for removal to cooler quarters,
in order to harden and prepare them for planting
in the open. Fuchsias, Pelargoniums, Heliotropes,
Swainsona, Calceolaria amplexicaulis and Veronica
Andersomi variegata are suitable for this purpose,
and should be thoroughly hardened before they
are planted out.
Plant Out seedling Pentstemons, Antirrhinums
and summer-flowering Chrysanthemums with as
little delay as possible.
Primroses may be divided now and planted in
the shrubbery or on the banks of the lake. Surplus
plants of Primula kewensis and P. obconica may
be planted in a similar position, and if slightly
shaded by surrounding trees so much the better.
The Kitchen Garden.
Peas. — A good sowing of Peas should be made
now for use in July and August. Sow the seeds
thinly in trenches 4 inches deep and cover with
2 inches of fine soil, leaving the remainder of the
soil to be carefully worked in among the plants
before the sticks are placed in position. If the
soil is dry at the time of sowing, the seeds may be
lightly trodden into the drUIs previous to covering
with soil, as this will hasten germination by several
days. Gradus, Matchless Marrow and Royal
Salute are good varieties for this sowing.
Spinach. — This is an indispensable crop in
summer, and requires great care to bring it to
perfection, especially in hot, dry weather. As
the season advances, the situation chosen should
be protected from strong sun as far as possible.
A border facing north or east should answer the
purpose well. New Zealand Spinach makes an
excellent substitute for ordinary Spinach in dry,
hot weather, and should be sown in drills 3 feet
apart. The warmer the weather the better this
plant seems to grow.
Broccoli. — The seeds should be sown without
delay to produce plants for next winter and spring
supplies. .Autumn Broccoli and Hallow-e'en Giant
Cauliflower should be included in this sowing.
This Cauliflower is indispensable for late autumn
supplies. The heads are well covered with foliage,
and remam in good condition for a long time.
Savoys, Coleworts, Copenhagen Early Cabbage,
Christmas Drumhead and Dickson's Dwarf Green
Gem should be sown now, also Broccoli. April
is the worst month to contend with so far as a
full supply of choice green vegetables is concerned,
and for this purpose we sow Harbinger and
Milecross Cabbage, Dickson's Omega Savoy and
several varieties of Broccoli.
Tomato Plants for outdoor cultivation should
now be ready for potting into 6-inch pots. Keep
the plants in a close pit for a time, and water
sparingly until the roots have reached the edge
of the pots, after which liberal waterings should
be given, and the plants gradually prepared for
planting out at the end of the month.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunx.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Asparagus. — This crop is now in bearing,
and It is important that the cutting should be
done with caution, otherwise much damage may
be done to the crowns. In very cold districts
't is a good plan to cover the bed with some
litter, not only as a protection from frost, but
by this means I have found one gets much more
tender shoots.
Cauliflowers. — A sowing may be put in now
to give a supply in October, which will be found
to be of immense use at that time. A small
quantity of guano put in the water will not only
act as a fertiliser, but will in many cases ward off
the maggot, which is so troublesome in dry seasons.
Peas. — Continue to make successive sowuigs
of the main crop varieties, and those that are
coming on should have sticks placed to them
when they are 6 inches high, as it is most important
that they be kept growing upright. Before sticking,
earth up the rows on both sides, which will, to
some extent, prevent the plants suffering in hot,
dry weather.
The Flower Garden.
Liliiuns. — Where these are intended to form
part of the bedding arr.angement, they will now
be so far advanced in growth that they may be
safely transferred to the open. I always find
they never make such fine specimens when allowed
to become the least pot-bound. In proof of this,
nowhere do we find such handsome spikes as when
they are grown in favoured districts where they
remain in the ground all the year.
East Lothian Stocks.— If these have been
sufficientlv hardened off. they should be planted
out at once, as there is nothing gained by keeping
them standing in boxes. Before planting, gi\e
the soil a dressing of finely ground lime, and ii:
planting allow at least j^ inches to 18 inches
between the plants.
Planting Perpetual-Flowering Carnations. —
For the past year or two these flowers have become
increasingly popular as bedding plants, and,
if carefully managed, will succeed well in most
situations. Many use old plants that have
flowered indoors, but yoimg plants rooted in the
autumn make by far the finest display. Perhaps
the best method of treating these Carnations
for this work is to layer some old plants in frames
in the autumn as one does the Malmaisons. I
find we get stronger plants in this way. Yotmg
plants which have been pinched should now be
planted. These will give a display when the
ordinary border varieties are over.
Lawns. — Where bulbs are gro^\-n on the la%vns,
the work of mowing has of necessity to be delayed.
No time, however, should be lost in getting to
work as soon as the foliage is sufficiently decayed.
In such cases, of course, it will be necessary to
go over the lawns with the scythe for the first
cutting. This will remove all inequalities, after
which it should be gone over with a broom to
remove worm-casts and other refuse before the
lawn-mower is brought into use.
Plants Under Glass.
Cinerarias. — If it is intended to have these
in bloom about the end of the year, a small sowing
may be made now. In doing so see that the
mixture contains a fair amount of leaf-soil free
from wirewonn, and after sowing place the seed-
pan in a cold frame, as Cinerarias resent at any
stage of their growth the least semblance of
coddling. That being so, it is important that
the seed is sown thinly, and the seedlings pricked
out as soon as thev show the second leaf.
Chrysanthemums. — Continue to admit air
freely to nlants in frames, although it will still
be necessary to close the lights at nights. Examine
the plants frequently for rust and mildew, and
if the slightest sign of rust appears, the leaf should
at once be removed, while in the case of mildew
a slight dusting with sulphur will in most cases
check it, A start must now be made in cutting
down plants intended for decoxati\e purposes.
After they have been cut back, the frame should
be kept closed for a time, and the plants syringed
at lea=t tv.-ice a day to induce them to break.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Strawberries. — Time must not be lost in getting
straw placed between the rows to keep the fruit clean.
This \viil also act as a protection. The plants
should on no account be allowed to become dry
at the roots when they are in flower. On young
plants not intended to fruit this season the rurmers
must be cut off as the;? appear. This will assist
in building up the crowns for next season.
Fruits Under Glass.
Vines. — Grapes colouring should have a free
circulation of air and the moisture considerably
reduced. If the border is sufficiently moist, it
may be covered with some sweet meadow hay.
This will prevent evaporation and present a clean
and tidy appearance. Vines in succession houses
will require attention, reducing the bunches
and thinning. Such large-berried sorts as Gros
Colman and Madresfield Court ought to have
the berries well thinned out at the beginning,
Orchard-House. — As the fruits will now be
swelling, the syringe should be used freely to
keep the foliage free from fly and caterpillars,
which can be detected by the tender foliage curling
up. The latter are best destroyed by hand picking,
while the fly can be held in check by the syringe
or fumigation. Gradually reduce the fruits to
the required number, and allow the temperature
to be considerably increased.
Melons. — To have a supply of ripe fruit for
August 12, the seed should be sown this week.
This will be found to be the best crop of the season,
inasmuch as it is on during the hottest months
of the year. Where one has to depend on hot-
beds and frames for their' supplies, this would
also be the best time to make a sowing. The
plants should be ready fur puttmg out about the
first or second week in June,
John Highc.ate.
(Head-gardener to the M.irquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopelmtn Gardens, South Q^iccnsfcrry, N.B.
May 2, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
223
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
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Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions
relating to matters upon tvhich they wish expert advice.
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Ofices : 20, Tavistock Street. Covent Garden, W.C.
ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— 27((! Editor intends to
make The Garden helpful to all readers iv/io desire assist-
ance, no matter tvhat the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street. Covent Garden. London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small sci-aps that are not characteristic of the plant Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher.
FLOWER GARDEN.
VIOLETS UNHEALTHY {H. K. K.).~\\e could find
no disease on the Violets, and think that possibly they
have been kept too close. They require abundance of
air and thorough drainage, otherwise they are liable to
the attack of botrytis, whicli causes the leaves to damp
off.
DAFFODIL BULBS ROTTING (G. B. C.)-— The insects
referred to are springtails, and we are doubtful whether
they are the primary cause of the rot of the Daffodil
bulbs, as they feed for the most part on decaying vegetable
matter. It would be impossible to say at this season
what the primary cause of the trouble is, but it is quite
probable that it is the fungus Fusarium bulbigenum,
which is doing so much damage this season to Narcissus
bulbs.
PLANTS FOR ROOF GARDEN (E. S.-N.).—As you
desire evergreen, and presumably carpeting plants, we
think such Sedums as acre and album the most smtable.
Associated with these a central group of the Cobweb
Houseleek (Sempervivum arachnoideum) would be very
attractive. You might, indeed, cover the whole roof
with this plant alone, seeing that it is interesting at all
seasons. By disposing it among small blocks of sandstone,
a picturesque effect would be produced. If to this white-
looking species you would like a contrasting comparison,
we suggest the dark green, prettily formed S. montanum.
In these two you would have free-growing, eminently
suitable kinds. We do not think the Iris would be suitable
for your purpose.
NARCISSUS DISEASED (Miss S. W. H.).— The Narcissus
is attacked by yellow stripe disease, the cause of which
is unknown. It is not likely to spread this season, but
seems possibly not unconnected with soil conditions of
an uncongenial character. Some varieties are more subject
to it than others, and plants often *' grow out " of it.
White Lilies are most likely to be attacked by the Lily
disease when they have been open to cheek by cold
winds, or by frost while they are in a growing condition.
It would be well to shelter them as far as you possibly can
by twiggy sticks or something of that kind from cold
winds and draughts, so that the chance of such a check
is reduced to a minimum. Possibly an occasional spraying
with a solution of potassium sulphide, at the rate of
one ounce to three gallons of water, would be of assistance
in warding off an attack.
ROCK GARDEN.
TUB IN ROCKERY (Miss L. N. 5.).— If you remove the
goldfish from the tub in your rockery, it is possible that the
water will keep clear. If, however, you decide to do
away with the water plant, the tub can be formed into a
small peat bed by making holes in the bottom, then placing
a foot of broken bricks and clinkers over the bottom.
On this place good turves, grass-side downwards, and
fill up with a mixture of sand and peat. In it Tlodgersia
pinnata miglit be planted, or some of the low-growing
Oaultherias or Vacciniums. By using loam instead of
peat, Iris sibirica, I, lasvigata. various Primulas and other
plants may be grown. If, however, you decide to do away
with" tlic water, wo think you would And it more
satisfactory to remove the tub and use its position for
ordinary plants.
TREES AND SHRUBS.
HORSE CHESTNUT FLOWERING EARLY (X. Y. Z.).—
[t is quite usual for certain specimens of the Horse Chestnut
to be several weeks earlier than others in developing leaves
and flowers. This phenomenon has given rise to the
varietal name of praccox being added to the typical
iEsculus Hippocastanum, to identify the early from the
later forms. When a large number of Horse Chestnut
trees are growing together, some are usually found which
are considerably earlier or later than the majority.
TREES FOR GRAZING LAND {A. J. .B.).— You cannot
do better than plant Pinus insiguis in the position you
describe. It is perfectly hardy in Cornwall and stands
exposure well. It also grows very rapidly, and at twenty-
five years of age ought to be from 35 feet to 40 feet liigh
at least. Do not be tempted to purchase large plants ;
little ones, 1 foot to 2 feet high, will transplant better and
be larger at the end of five years than others whicli might
have been 5 feet or 6 feet high at planting-time. You
can procure plants from any of the Cornish uurscryraen,
such as Messrs. Ruse or. Messrs. Gill of Falmouth, or
Messrs. Treseder and Co. of Truro. They may be from
6d. to Is. each, or perhaps a little more ; we cannot say
accurately, as we have not a price-list of the firms named.
THE GREENHOUSE.
PLANTS NOT DOING WELL {Reader) .—Tha plants
arc damping off, and have doubtless been kept too moist
and close. It is essential that sucli plants as these should
have ample circulation about them at all times, and a
great help to avoid troubles such as these is to sterilise
the soil into which the plants are to be pricked out.
CINERARIA LEAVES WITHERING {Clietwynd).—
The appearance of the foliage of tlie Cineraria and your
account of the trouble suggest that it is suffering from
being brought into a dry atmosphere after having been
grown in a fairly moist one. We think you might possibly
get over this, to some extent at least, by hardening off
the plants ; that is, accustom them gradually to a drier
atmosphere before bringing them into the house.
ADVICE ON THE ERECTION OF A GREENHOUSE
(T. M. T.). — At the best, the erection of a new greenhouse
on the site of an old conservatory would be only a very
partial remedy for the trouble complained of. As the
spot is so shaded, plants of a quick-growing nature are
sure to run up tall and weak. The only remedy is to grow
such subjects as Palms and Ferns, which do not object to
a good deal of shade. For the erection of a greenhouse
apply to one of the advertisers in The Garden. For
obvious reasons we cannot recommend any particular
firm. All are thoroughly reliable.
TREATMENT OF TESTUDINARIA ((?. (?.).— As the
roots of your Testudinaria show signs of bursting the pot,
your better way will undoubtedly be to put it into a larger
one. The new pot must be effectually drained, and a
very suitable compost may be made of three parts of
fibrous loam to one part of peat, with a sprinkling of
broken brick rubble and sand. The plant should be potted
firmly. We should not ad\dse the use of any stimulant
in order to encourage growth. If the pot is well drained,
the plant may be freely supplied with water during
the growing season, but in winter must be kept ranch
drier. Being a native of South Africa, this Testudinaria
should be wintered in a structure \vith a minimum tem-
perature of 45° to 50^.
KITCHEN GARDEN.
TOMATOES IN BOXES (JVe??io).— For single plants
a box a foot long and 10 inches wide will be large enough.
Top-dressings of soil and manure may be added in due
course. If two or more plants are grown in a box, the
latter should afford accommodation for the plants in due
proportion, the box for a single plant being taken as a
guide.
SOWING PEAS {R. G. 5.).— Much will depend, of
course, on the variety as to the length of the row a pint,
for instance, will sow. The shorter and less robust varie-
ties should naturally be sown thicker; thus one pint
should be evenly distributed over 70 feet, and for the
taller and stronger varieties, such as Quite Content, for
instance, allow one pint to 100 feet. Unquestionably,
Peas, as a rule, are sown much too thickly, the result
being that the plants become starved and the duration
of the crop is short. Much better results follow by
allomng the plants of the stronger-growing varieties from
6 inehcs to 8 inches in double lines.
FRUIT GARDEN.
BEETLES IN VINERY {'F. H.). — The beetles are Vine
weevils, and often do great damage. The larvae feed on
the roots of various greenhouse plants. Spread a sheet on
the ground after dark under the Vines, and then either
shake them or shine a bright light upon them, when the
insects will drop to the ground, feigning death. Collect
them and tip them into a bucket of hot water or water
with a layer of paraffin on the top.
STRAWBERRY PLANTS DISEASED (A. .B.).— Your
Strawberry plants are attacked by the Strawberry leaf
spot fungus (Sphaerella fragariae). The best remedy for
this disease is to cut ull' all the leaves in August and alluw
them to dry on thr; bed ; then set fire to them and bum
tiiom wticre they lie. This will do no harm to the Straw-
berry plants, and will tend to destroy the fungus. The
only thing that can be done at this season is to spray at
frequent intervals with potassium sulphide, one ounce to
three gallons of water.
r;PEACH SHOOTS FOR INSPECTION {B. A. J.).— The
pest on the Peach is the Peach scale, Lecanium persicae.
It is to be regretted that measures were not taken in the
winter to deal with the pest, for Peach tree foliage is
exceedingly sensitive to all sorts of sprays and fumigants,
so as to render it dangerous to use them so strong as to
kill pests. Probably fumigating \vith hydrocyanic acid
would be the best check, but it is dangerous to apply.
This month the eggs of the pest will hatch, and as soon as
this happens (and careful watch should be kept), the house
should be fumigated ^vith XL All or some similar fumigant.
MISCELLANEOUS.
GRUBS INFESTING SOIL {0. P. Q.).— The grubs
sent for identification are the larvai of the crane-fly, often
destructive on lawms and flower borders. Kepeated
rolling in the evening will often destroy these pests on
lawns. In the ftower borders you should use Vaporite,
and destroy the larvas on all possible occasions.
VARIOUS QUESTIONS (A. G. M.).— Antirrhinum
Asariua can be rooted in September under a boll-glass,
as one would treat the common Antirrhinum. Planted
in a warm spot in a fairly rich sandy soil, it will usnallv
survive several years. Primula Forte«tii is doubtfully
hardy in tliis country, but is undoubtedly more reseotful
(if damp than of cold. The soil in whicii it is planted
must be thoroughly drained, and the plants protected
from damp accumulating in their crowns.
WALL PLANTS FROM JULY TO SEPTEMBER
(B. M. O.). — The period mentioned in your lettfT is the
weakest for obtaining an effective display in the wall garden,
though there are a few plants which are indispensable. The
majority, however, are over by the end of June, though in
your northern district the flowering may be later than usual.
The following arc among the best things : Achillea
tomentosa, yellow ; Campanula muralis, which usually
gives a second flowering : C. garganica, in three varieties ;
C. Profusion, certainly one of the best ; Corydalis lutea,
charming in leaf or flower at any time ; the Edelweiss,
Polygonum vaccinifolium, Achillea umbellata, A. Heuteri
and Clavennse, and Zauschneria californica, the last most
effective, with scarlet flowers. How much success might
be achieved depends not a little upon the nature of the
wall and the method of planting : but by colonising the
best — arranging them, that is, in free masses — a good
display is possible -with but a few kinds. The Cob-
web Houseleek is a good plantat anytime, and, well placed,
always attracts attention. There are others which might
extend into July, but would not be effective for any length
of time,
DESIGN FOR SUNK GARDEN (F. M.i).).— There is one ■
serious defect in the design for the simk garden as we under-
stand it from your letter. The proportion is not at all
good, the garden being much too narrow for its length.
The least ■width permissible for a garden 118 feet long
should be 40 feet, viz., width equal one-third length.
If you have not room to \\iden out the area (when a much
more attractive design for beds would be possible), we
think you would do well to slightly alter the path design,
as shown in Plan I. In the narrow borders at the base of
the wall we would plant Iris pumila. Aubrietias, Campanula
pnsilla, Dianthus, Viola gracilis and other small-growing
plants of similar nature, which would give the effect of a
herbaceous border in miniatm-e. The edges of borders
along paved walks should be planted with small creeping
plants, like Gypsophila repens. Thymus Serpyllum,
Arenarias, d'c, that would creep partly over the edges
of the paths. The circular beds could be planted with
Lavender or Kosemary. The effect of introducing the
circles will be to alleviate the monotony of so many straight
lines. If it is possible to widen out the centre portion of
the garden, as shown in Plan II., a much better effect could
be produced. Borders on the top of the walls (we presume
they are retaining walls, and not built above the ground
level), so that you can get trailing plants to hang dowm
the walls, are necessary to complete the design.
VARIOUS QUESTIONS {A. G. T.).— The question of
inducing Hydrangeas to produce blue flowers has of late
years aroused a good deal of interest. The change in
colour from the normal type is often attributed to the
presence of iron in the soil, and it has been applied in
various ways, but not always with satisfactory results.
There are two preparations on the market for turning the
flowers of Hydrangeas blue, namely. Azure, which is
a speciality of Messrs. William Cutbush and Son of High-
gate, and Cyanol, which is, we believe, a Continental
preparation. Messrs. Cutbush have several times shovra
very fine blue flowers, which have been treated mth
Azure. The presence of lime in the soil is very detri-
mental to the production of the desired blue tint; hence
the plants should never be given water that contains chalk,
llain-water is the very best. It would have been better
if you had commenced applying the preparation earlier,
but if your plants are not far advanced it will, no doubt,
be in time. Painters' knotting is often used to check
the bleeding of Vines, the cut surface being seared before-
hand with a red-hot iron. Dusting the fronds of your
Ferns with soot or sulphur will do little towards checking
the injury done by woodlice or small snails. WoodUce
can be readily trapped by cutting some Potatoes in half
and scooping out part of the interior. Then make a notch
in one side of the Potato and place it concave side down-
wards on the stage. The notch will allow the woodlice
tu get underneath the Potato, which should be examined
224
THE GARDEN.
[May 2, 1914.
in the morning, and the pests dropped into some boilinp
water. Small pots, \vith a little dry moss therein, laid
on their sides where woodlice congregate also form good
traps. Thev must, like the Potatoes, be examined in the
morning. The small snaUs should he sought for, when
dark, by the light of a candle.
NAMES OF PL AUTS.— James Ward.—Thf Snowy
llespilus (Anielanchier canadensis). F. W A. — A
variety of Heuchera sanguinea, but which it is impossible
to say from specimen. There are many varieties and
hybrids Blade HomSro,— Bubus spectabilis. J. ./.
— SeedMncis of Narcissus Poeticus. Mrs. O. C. Q.
Povnton —The coniferous plants are Cupressus lawsoniana
■lud Cupressus semper\irens (small). The Maple is Acer
monspessulanum. A. C. P.. Icybndge.—BriK^ hybrida,
an early fiowering hardy Heath. DouMful. — 1,
Acanthus mollis; 2. Romneva Coultori; 3, Araygdalus
jiana. W. H. J., Kent. — 1, Kalmia latifolia ; 2, Allium
neapolitanum.
SOCIETIES.
THE MIDLAND DAFFODIL SOCIETY'S SHOW.
Once more this sliow. which was held on April L^:^ and '24.
was full of interest, both to the Daftodil experts and 1o
the general public. The show, as usual,
took place -in the Edgbaston Botanic
Gardens, Birmingham, and here we
would take the opportunity of thankm^-
both Mr. Herbert Smith (secretary of
the society) and Mr. T. Humphreys
(Curator of the Gardens) for their un-
failing courtesv, and to congratulate
them^on the success with which the
e.-diibition was carried through. Owing
to the recent spell of warm and sunny
weather, the early blooms were past
their best. Only a comparatively few
of the earlv trumpets were on view.
That magnificent yellow self trumpet
Kin" Alfred, which usually makes such
fine splashes of colour at Birmingham,
was only to be seen on one or two
stands at the most. There was, h.jw-
ever. a wonderful display of white
blooms, and seldom have we seen Poets
so plentiful at any Daffodil show.
CojiPETiTivE Classes.
Speaking generally, competition was
very keen, with the result that the
whole of the exhibition space was filled
with blooms of high quality.
In Class 1, for a collection of fifty
varieties of Daffodils, there was a keen
fight for supremacy. Messrs. Cart-
wright and Goodwin were successful,
among the pick of their varieties
being Loch Fyne, White Knight and
White Wolf. Mr. C. Bourne, the Kev.
J. Jacob and Mrs. Kidley followed ni
the order named, each of them showing
collections representing the different
sections of the Daffodil.
Class 2, for a decorative exhibit ot
cut Narcissi only, arranged against ;i
wall on a space 9 feet by 4 feet, brought
together many beautiful and effective
groups. The first prize went to Mr.
C. Bourne ; second, the Rev. J. Jacob ;
third, Mr. J. A. Kenrick, Harborne.
In all of the exhibits the association
of Daffodils and foliage plants was
verv pleasing.
aiessrs. E. H. Krelage and Sons
were very successful in the classes for
trumpet Daffodils, and secured premier
awards for six white, six yellow, and
the single bloom white trumpet.
Their beautiful white trumpet variety
Mrs. Ernst H. Krelage was one of the
features of the show.
Mr. C. Bourne was most successful
with the incomparabilis section.
Among other successes, he gained first
prizes for six incomparabilis, six Barrii
in two classes, and six varieties of any
section that have not been in com-
merce more than four years.
Messrs. F. Herbert Chapman, J.
Pope, R. Bruce Waite, A. M. Wilson, m a t;-('t-. Adiantums were well repre-
sriitrii amunj: the Ferns.
From the Donard Nursery Company,
Newcastle, County Down, came a
superb collection, in which the massive
blooms of King Alfred stood out
prominently. Gloria Mundi, too, was
well shown, likewise Ethel Porter.
Buttercup, Homespun and Seline
Malone. This is the first time that we
have seen an exhibit from this Irish
firm, and they are to be complimented
on the quality of the blooms that were
shown.
Messrs. lleamsbottom and Co.,
Geashill, King's County, Ireland,
showed St. Brigid Anemones in
brilliant shades of blue, pink and
scarlet.
Messrs. Walter T. Ware, Limited,
Inglescombe Nurseries, near Bath,
showed Daffodils of fine quality. The
vases of The Doctor, Leo and Cleo-
patra were specially good, while some
of the finest novelties were seedlings
under number.
There were other non-competitive
groups, including that shown by
Airs. Lloyd Edwards, Bryn Oerog.
near Llangollen, comprising a number
of new hybrid Saxifrages and the
purple Aubrietia Lloyd Edwards.
MRS. ERNST H. KRELAGE, WHICH GAINED AN AWARD Oi-
MERIT AT THE MIDLAND DAFFODIL SHOW.
DUMFRIES AND GALLOWAY
GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION.
exhibitor, gaining the Barr Vase in addition to a silver
medal.
Mr. C. Bourne gained the silver medal in the champion-
ship classes, 3 to 27, and fllr. E. M. Crosfield gained a
similar award for his success in other classes.
Awards of Merit.
Mrs. Ernst E. Krdage. — A magnificent and "refined
white trumpet. Shown by Messrs. ICrelage and Sons.
Idris. — A beautiful flower of the incomparabilis section.
Perianth wfiite, pale lemon cup prettily crinkled. Shown
by Mr. \V. A. Watts.
Evangeline. — Perianth large and white with over-
lapping segments and a much expanded clear yellow
cup. It belongs to the Leedsii group. Shown by Messrs.
H, D, Phillips. Limited.
The lecturer at the closing meeting of
this association, held in the Wesley
Halls, Dumfries, on April 26, was
Mr. Oliver of Drumlamig Castle Gardens. Mr. S Arnott
presided over a good meeting, and introduced Mr. Oliver,
whose subject was " A Walk and Talk About Kew
Gardens," illustrated by a large number of exoellont
slides, displiiyed on the screen by a lantern ably manipu-
lated by Mr W. A. Mackinnel. Mr. Oliver gave an e.xcol-
lent de'scription of the gardens and their history and
leading features, the capital views bringing out the points
he wished to emphasise. Mr. Oliver, who was four years
at Kew, afforded a large amount of information, new even
to some of those who knew the Royal Gardens at Kow
fairly well, and quite an enjoyable and profitable
evening was spent. On the motion of the chairman.
Mr. Oliver was cordially thanked for his adrairablo
account of Kew.
^^hH|
1 ^v^.JaHEf^
sharp, keep the light closed down and protect
with mats or sacks stuffed with hay. A frame
6 feet wide by 4 feet long and 3 feet deep at
the back will hold about twelve plants in 7-inch
or 8-inch pots. Such a frame can be made of
stout wood, or, if preferred, bricks may be used.
I have even seen turf used to make the walls,
with a narrow board lying on the top of the turf
walls to support the glass light. Any handy-man
could make such a frame, and certainly he
could glaze the light himself. In a frame of this
FLOWERING SPRAY OF FOTHERGILLA MAJOR, A RARE HARDY SHRUB NOW BLOOMING AT KEW.
was known as the Broad-leaved Fothergilla. The
Fothergillas have no petals, the showy inflorescences
being due to the bunches of creamy- white fila-
ments. These appear in advance of the leaves, which
are roundish oval, up to inches long. In autumn,
as the leaves die off they assume a rich, clear
yellow, lasting, as a rule, in beauty for several
weeks. A plant grooving at Kew is already about
4 feet in height. In the ^Arnold Arboretum there
is a beautiful specimen 8 feet high. Six to
a dozen plants make a very attractive bed or
group along the front of a border of choice shrubs.
Fothergillas thrive in a compost of sandy loam,
peat and leaf-mould. Layering and cuttings form
ready means of increase. A. O.
foliage. Green fly will show itself, and I know
of no simpler remedy than Auto Shreds. They
are simply set light to, and cause no trouble what-
ever. If the reader possesses a greenhouse and
desires to plant Roses therein, he could not do
better than plant out such pot Roses as I have
described, or, if preferred, he can purchase estab-
lished plants. The soil that will be used for the
Roses in the planted-out greenhouse should be
good loam — -and it will pay anyone to import a
cartload or two of good material — with some
230
THE GARDEN.
[May g. iqiJ
SOME
BEAUTIFUL POPPY-
WORTS.
THE MEGONOPSES.
[Coniiniied from page 216.)
Cultivation. — A point of high importance
here is that for all practical purposes the plants
are moisture-loving, preferring peat, leaf-mould
and loam in about equal parts, while not objecting
to rich, light loams alone. Equally important,
for some species at least, and those of nobler
growth more particularly, is the question of soil
richness ; hence too great a proportion of peat
must be so raised from seeds and subsequently
planted in their permanent quarters as to render
possible the fullest development of the plant in
the first year. Failing this a meagre develop-
ment results, and all else — size, colour, free and
profuse flowering — follows in due proportion.
Of no group is this more true than of these biennial
Poppyworts. In other words, a spring sowing
of the seeds cannot produce the results of an
autumn sowing, any more than July planting
can equal that of April or May.
Seeds and Seedlings. — Seeds are not always
produced abundantly or of the highest quality.
This is so even in those instances where artificial
should not be employed, or, if for any
employed, it must be liberally
enriched. In this connection no
words of mine could possibly
possess half the weight or impor-
tance of those which, in response
to questionings as to the exact
conditions under which he found
the unique M. integrifolia. came
from the lips of Mr. E. H. Wilson.
In the first place, he said the
whole of the cultivated examples.
he had seen since his return had
been extremely disappointing, giv-
ing the impression of starvelings
rather than that of well-grown
specimens. In its high mountain
home, he further remarked, the
ground is traversed by vast num-
bers of yak, a species of ox,
which are responsible for the
heavy manuring of the ground.
To these conditions Mr. Wilson
attached the great vigour of the
plants, the richer colourmg of the
flowers, and the greater freedom
of production ; hence it would be
well for gardeners generally to
cultivate the plant on these lines.
Mr. Wilson was also emphatic as to
the hardiness of this fine species,
and imagined that the feeble
results he had seen were, partly,
the evidences of fear on the part
of the cultivator rather than those
of indifferent treatment or neglect.
We know to-day that not a few
of the more robust-growing species
not only delight in rich soils, but
that the cooling effects of cow-
manure have a decided influence
for good in the maintenance of a
steady, continuous growth. How
great a part altitude and the
rarefied conditions of high moun-
tain air play in the cultivation of
these plants must ever remain a mystery. Even if
solved, the information, because of the impossi-
bility of imitation, would be quite useless to the
gardener. The task before the latter is that of
adapting these children of the mountains to the
conditions prevailing in lowland countries, and
In so doing he will find the school of experience —
observation and experiment — of the greatest
possible service.
Though the fact that the major portion of the
species comprising the genus are virtually only
of biennial duration is well known, it is worth
repeating, if not, indeed, emphasising. Biennial
plants of all classes, if they are to produce at
flowering-time the best they are capable of giving,
reason pollination has been resorted to. Apparently
tion of the earlier opening flowers is resorted to.
a moderate supply of seeds will be forthcoming.
These may be sown at any time within a month
or so of harvesting, and, if of good quality, will
vegetate in about three weeks thereafter. Well-
dramed pans of light, sandy loam or sandy peat
will do quite well for the seed-sowing, and the seeds,
covered with soil of the thickness of half-a-crown,
will be quite safe in the temperature named.
A cultural item of importance is that the soil of
the seed-pan be well soaked with water in advance
so as to reduce to a minimum any ftirther need
for water till the seedlings appear. This latter
may be expedited by covering the seed-pans ivith
sheets of glass, and again with moss, to conserve
moisture and the uniform condi-
tions of soil warmth. Subsequent
treatment resolves itself into
pricking off and potting smgly as
occasion demands, and in maintain-
ing a sturdy, uninterrupted growth
by further shifts till the arrival of
April, when the plants should be
ready for their permanent places in
the garden. E. H. Jenkins.
{To be continued.}
IRIS FLAVESCENS,
A BEAUTIFUL MAY-FLOWERING HYBRID WITH
YELLOW BLOSSOMS.
large quantities of good seeds are produced,
the thin crop of resulting seedlings demonstrating
either the infertility of the majority or some cultural
error in raising them. In this connection I am of
opinion that cold-frame treatment may, to some
extent, be responsible, the seeds perishing in the
soil, and that a quicker germinating, the outcome
of sowing in slight warmth, say, a temperature
of 45°, would be more productive of good results.
In the case of M. integrifolia and M Wallichii
this is undoubtedly true, and there may be others,
The only way to ensure a good crop of seeds is
by artificial pollination, and, even so, much depends
upon the season and not a little upon the fecundity
of the pollen. Usually, however, where pollina-
A CHARMING MAY-
FLOWERING IRIS.
Iris flavescens.
This attractive May-flowering Iris
is worthy of extended cultiva-
tion. For some unknown reason
it is very much neglected, and is,
like the German Iris, more often
than not relegated to an out-of-
the-way comer in the garden,
where it is allowed to dwindle
and die. Iris flavescens is a
good border plant ; the flowers
are yellow, and the plant attains
a height of 2 feet to 3 feet.
For a long time it has been
looked upon as a synonym of I.
imbricata, but Mr. W. R. Dykes,
in his thoroughly reliable book,
" The Genus Iris," says " the
frequently repeated statement that
1. flavescens is a native of the
Caucasus is due to its erroneous
identification with I. imbricata
(Lindl.). It is doubtless a garden
hybrid and has no real claim to
specific rank," Whatever may be
its origin, I. flavescens is a beauti-
ful Iris of the easiest possible
culture. Two conditions are essen-
tial to its welfare, i.e., sun and a
well-drained soil. It will thrive in both heavy and
light soils ; but if the soil is very sandy, a top-
dressing of short, well-rotted manure and leaf-
soil will prove beneficial. When transplanting
is necessary, it should be done soon after flowering.
NEPETA MUSSINM.
It is a good plan to plant this lovely perennial
in a border of Roses. It serves to cover up bare
stems, and will be found to associate well with
almost any colour. Last season we saw this
combination on a large scale, and we shall not
readily forget the effect. It should be planted
witho\it delay.
May 9, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
231
COLOURED PLATE.
PliATB 1493.
FOUR GOOD ANTIRRHINUMS.
M
OST of our readers will remember
that last year the Royal Horti-
cultural Society held a trial of
Antirrhinums in the famous gardens
at Wisley. There a great many
varieties were grown side by side
for comparison, and when judged a number were
granted awards of merit. Four of the varieties
thus honoured are shown in the accompanying
coloured plate, which, owing to the wide range
of colours, does not quite adequately portray
the vivid hues of the flowers. Coccinea was sent
to the trials by two firms, viz., Messrs. Dobbie
and Co. and Messrs. Dickson and Robinson. It
is a beautiful variety, and creates
quite a brilliant effect in the
garden. Rosy Morn was
also sent by Messrs. Dickson and
Robinson and by Messrs. Watkins
and Simpson. It is a beautiful shade
of pink, and the plant has a nice
sturdy habit. Golden Queen was sent
by three firms, viz., Messrs. R. H.
Bath, Limited, Messrs. Dickson and
Robinson, and Mr. W. H. Simpson.
It has large flowers that are well
placed on stout, erect stems. Maize
Queen, the fourth variety, is officially
described as maize yellow. This also
was sent to the trials from three
sources, viz., Messrs. Dobbie and
Co., Messrs. J. H. Veitch and
Sons, Limited, and Mr. W. H.
Simpson.
The cultivation of Antirrhinums
was fully dealt with by Mr. R. P.
Brotherston in the issue for March 14
last, so that it is not necessary to
describe it in detail here. They are
not difficult plants to grow, and,
although it is too late to sow seeds
now to provide plants to flower this
year, sturdy seedlings can be pur-
chased from many nurserymen and
plant growers. These are usually
ready for moving about the third
week in May. Seed may be sown out-
doors during June to provide plants
for flowering early next year, and
where it is desired to naturalise
Antirrhinums in old walls or rockwork, that
is undoubtedly the best course to pursue.
For beds and borders, however, early spring
sowing in frame or greenhouse usually gives
the best results. With the many beautiful
colours that we are now getting in modern
varieties, it will not be surprising if, in a few
years' time, they become almost as popular as
the Sweet Pea.
RHODODENDRON ROSY BELL.
Although Rhododendron Rosy Bell is by no
means new, yet it is only within the last year
or two that its merits have been appreciated.
As an early variety for Southern gardens it is
coming rapidly to the fore. The parents of this
attractive hybrid are two Sikkim species, R.
ciliatum and R. glaucum. For outdoor decora-
tion it is a most useful plant, but, as may be
imagined from its parentage, not very hardy.
Except in the favoured South and West, a
position sheltered from the morning sun should
be selected when planting, so that if there is
a little frost it will gradually thaw before the
sun's rays reach the plants. The flowering
season is the second half of April. The
plant is evergreen ; the blooms are bell-shaped,
about an inch long and the same in width.
DAFFODIL NOTES.
NEW DAFFODILS AT THE ROYAL
HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S 1914
SHOW.
IN dealing with novelties I need only say
by way of introduction that there were
only a very few which I might describe as
altogether " out of the way." The double
Llinos marked a new type of double of a
symmetrical and pleasing shape, and was
the most talked about flower in the hall. A
magnificent Lucifer, shown by Mr. A. M. Wilson
under a number, is as large as any, if it is not the
largest flower, with a long all-red cup and white
perianth. Before dealing with the different items in
detail, I think I ought to explain the meaning of my
measurements. It will have been noticed that I
usually use such a formula as si inches >; i^ inches
A GROUP OF THE BEAUTIFUL RHODODENDRON ROSY BELL.
SOWING WALLFLOWERS.
Seeds of these indispensable flowers should be sown
at once in order to obtain good strong plants for
the flower garden in October. Sow the seeds in
shallow drills a foot apart, and transplant the seed-
lings as soon as large enough to handle. Other seeds
for spring bedding should also be sown now, and
these may include Myosotis, Pansy, Polyanthus,
Silene, Aubrietia, and double Daisy New Giant
Rose and White.
They are borne in small, rather loose trusses,
terminating practically every twiggy growth.
These usually consist of about five flowers,
while sometimes there are two or three trusses
together terminating a growth, which to all
intents and purposes might be one large truss
of flowers. The colour is a delicate pink with
a suspicion of mauve.
As can be readily seen in the accompanying
illustration. Rosy Bell is a dwarf bushy
plant and very free flowering. With age
the plants gradually increase in size, the
tall plant in flower at the back of the group
being also Rosy Bell. It is quite a good plant
for the rock garden as well as for the border,
while those who have only a bleak garden will
find Rosy Bell a useful Rhododendron for pot
cultivation. Cuttings root readily in sandy peat
under a bell-glass, and in a propagating-frame
with slight bottom-heat.
or 4 inches x (i inch x ij inches) x (r| inches x
2i inches). In both cases the first number is the
diameter of the perianth. Where only a single
measurement follows, that one is the diameter of the
eye or cup. The inference to be drawn is that the
flower is a Poet or a very shallow cupped variety
of some Barrii or Leedsii. Where two measure-
ments follow, the first is that of the exterior
segments of the perianth (the first that of their
greatest width and the second that of their length
from the base of the corona or trumpet to the tip)
and the last one that of the trumpet or cup (the
first being the length and the second the diameter
of the top, including the recurve of the brim).
I hope this short explanation is clear, for, as
the late Mr. Sydenham used to say, these details
enable us to construct the flower in our mind's eye.
Llinos, a new type of double raised and shown
by Mr. Watts of Si. Asaph. This was the first
bloom on the plant, so there is just a little doubt
232
THE GARDEN.
[May 9, igi4.
if it will come the same again, although the raiser
has every hope that it will. The flower has a
diameter of 4 inches, witli two regularly placed
rows of perianth segments on the outside, with
parts of the split-up corona sjTnmetrically arranged
between them. The centre of the whole is a jumble
up of longer and shorter bits of either petals or
corona, two or three of the pale shaded ones
being especially prominent. Perianth primrose ;
the petals of tlie inner row have a yellow stripe
down their centre. Corona pale orange.
Lord Lister (Welchman), an exquisite white
Ajax, which I remember was exhibited at Birming-
ham last year. As the measurements indicate,
it is a flower with a trumpet on the short side,
the recurve of which is a little like that of Mme.
de Graaff. The perianth segments are smooth
and overlapping, with just the slightest
inclination to come forward. It was cer-
tainly one of the best flowers at the
show. Size : 44 inches x (li inches x
rf inches) x (i J inches x i| inches).
Martel (Cranfield), a giant incomparabilis
of perfect symmetry and form, the whole
flower of a rich yellow, with the cup or
small trumpet of a deeper shade. The
perianth is perfectly flat, and is set at right
angles to the corona. The segments are
wide and overlapping. It is a true florist's
flower, and stands to the usual giant
incomparables much as Florist's Favourite,
which I described in the issue of April 25.
and of which an illustration is given on this
page, does to an ordinary trumpet, such as
Golden Spur or Emperor. Measurements ;
4 inches x (ij inches x if inches) x
(ij inches x if inches).
Princess Juliana (Barr), a rich, very
deep yellow Ajax, a real self. Its dis-
tinguishing feature is the massive, widely
scalloped recurve of its somewhat short
trumpet. It is a flower that one is bound
to notice in any collection — perhaps this
is why it is called after the little girl
Princess of Holland — otherwise I would
have thought its sturdiness would rather
have suggested a William the Silent or a
Barneveldt. It received an award for
show from the Narcissus committee.
Measurements : 4 J inches x (i-| inches x
i| inches) x (ij inches x zj inches).
N.B. — When the diameter of the trumpet
(here 2 J inches) is very much in excess of
that of its length (here ij inches), it usually
denotes a wide recurve of the brim.
Morven is a pale bicolor Ajax which was
raised at Forres Castle by Brodie of
Brodie. It was brought before the committee
by Messrs. Cartwright and Goodwin, and received an
award for show purposes. It is a very cool, clean-
looking flower, and has a decided resemblance
to J. B. M. Camm in its general appearance,
but with a longer trumpet. Size : 3I inches x
(iJ inches x i J inches) x (if inches x li inches).
Sigismund (Barr) resembles a beautiful Giant
Leedsii, with very broad, overlapping segments
of great substance, the whole flower being of a
delicate greenish white. Size : 3J inches x
(li inches x if inches) x (i J inches x i| inches).
White City (W. T. Ware) is a striking Leedsii of
the White Lady type, raised by Mrs. Backhouse.
The perianth, which is of a beautiful white shade,
is inclined to come forward and the extreme
edges of the petals to incurve. Massed as Mr.
Ware had it in great market bunches, " it was
fine." Size : 3J inches x seven-eighths of an
inch. It is a very thick flower.
Ivory King (Bourne) must have been, I fancy,
a new purchase, for its name does not occur in
the 1914 list. Anyhow, Mr. Bourne annexed a
great beauty when he bought Ivory King. It
is away from the usual shades of large Ajaxes,
inasmuch as it is a rich ivory white self. The
perianth is slightly hooded, and the trumpet
wide and boldly expanded at the brim, the whole
bloom being of much substance. Measurements :
4i inches x (if inches x i| inches) x (ij- inches
;■ I J inches).
Coral Queen (Barr) is a white-petalled Barrii.
The segments are rather " rough " and uneven,
but not so much as to prevent it being a beautiful
flower for vase decoration. The broad band of
THE NEW DAFFODIL FLORIST'S FAVOURITL. THL 1-
DEEP YELLOW FLOWERS ARE OF PERFECT FOR
rosy buff which circles the flat eye is most un-
common, and will well repay any little extra
trouble that an early gathering and afterwards
keeping of the blooms would occasion. It is no
use disguising or minimising the fact that these
delicate and fugitive colours need special care if we
are to enjoy them, and that treated as an ordinary
garden plant, like an Emperor, they are never seen.
Size : 3 inches x seven-eighths of an inch.
Golden Apricot (Barr) is another example of a
flower with unique colouring in its cup, which,
as the name implies, is a golden apricot with an
edge of buff ; at least, that is the best Mr, Rudolph
Barr and myself could do as we stood before it
and discussed its shade. The cup is large in propor-
tion to the whole. The perianth is rough and
of much substance. Size : 3 J inches x (i inch
X I J inches). The numbers in parentheses belong
to the cup.
Mogador (Engleheart) is an exquisite example of
a star-shaped Giant Leedsii of great refinement.
It features in many respects White Pennant
(R. H. Bath), but the cup is much more like a
diminutive trumpet. As White Pennant was
in the hall, I was able to compare the two varieties
together, and as a result I fell a victim, and the
next time it blooms some of the bulbs will find
themselves in New Zealand and some at White-
well. I call it Mogador, the lovely white city
on the seashore of the Atlantic as seen from the
surrounding sand hills, the southernmost port of
Morocco open to foreigners. Size : Diameter of
the whole flower, 4 inches. I do not seem
to have any record of the cup, but it must
have been about ij inches x ij inches.
l^ R 5 (Engleheart) is a narrow-cupped
Leedsii of striking appearance because of
the pink edge to its cup. It has a perianth
like that of Thora, and a long, rather
narrow cup, broadly suffused pink. It is
seen to most advantage when the flower
is held sideways against the light.
741 (Wilson) is the magnified Lucifer
which is previously referred to. Size ;
4i inches x (ij inches x if inches) x
(three-quarters of an inch x seven-eighths of
an inch). In estimating this measurement
I ought to say that I think the diameter
(4I inches) would have probably been a
quarter of an inch more if the segments
had been stretched to their full length.
Martha (Wilson), a refined small flower
of a lovely shade of primrose, both perianth
and corona being an exact match of one
another in colour, a well-defined edge
of red round the cup giving the necessary
relief. Size of bloom : 2I inches x seven-
eighths of an inch.
Yellow Poppy (CartwTight and Goodwin)
is a very large incomparabilis, \vith a wide
open, cup-shaped corona in the place of
the more usual long-shaped one. The
perianth was flat and overlapping, with
rounded segments, and pale primrose in
colour. The yellow cup was edged with a
narrow band of orange. Dimensions :
3I inches x (li inches x ij inches) x
(three-eighths of an inch x one-eighth of
an inch).
Various. — I have many more nice
flowers described in my notes, such as
the most exquisite triandrus hybrid with
which Mr. P. D. Williams won the single
bloom class ; Mont Clair, a grand, very
deep yellow Ajax on Messrs. Barr's stand ;
the well-grown Harold Finn and the single bloom
of White Pennant on Messrs. Bath's ; Girdle,
one of Mr. Watts' fine Giant Leedsii ; Agatha,
a pretty pointed white Ajax on Mr. Bourne's ;
the chaste white trumpet Vestal Virgin on Messrs.
J. R. Pearson and Sons', surely one of the most
lovely of its type ; and a uniquely coloured one also
among Messrs. Pearson's, with a primrose perianth
and a lemon trumpet, named Sulphur Gem —
3 J inches x (if inches x ij inches) x (i J inches
X iJ inches) — sold to Holland, that country so
greedy for our beauties and so successful in getting
them ; Mrs. W. O. Wolseley, a very early and
refined Giant Leedsii on Messrs. Carter's ; and
others too numerous to mention, which is just
as it should be, seeing that I am writing about the
big London show of 1014. Joseph Jacob.
ICH
M.
May 9, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
233
GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.
HOW TO GROW VEGETABLE MARROWS.
THE Vegetable Marrow is a prolific
plant when well treated. It is a
fact, however, that the best is rarely
obtained from the plants. After the
first week in June they grow freely
in suitable soil, but perhaps it is owing
to the ease with which they can be grown in warm
weather that many cultivators pay less attention
to the welfare of the
plants than their
merits as luscious
vegetables warrant.
On the other hand,
there are cultivators
who are over-anxious
in the matter, and
raise seedlings too
early, coddle the
young plants, and
put them out a few
weeks too soon ; then
they get a serious
check, if they are
not quite killed.
From start to finish
Vegetable Marrows
require warmth and
to be guarded
against chills.
Sowing Seeds.— If
seeds are sown before
the middle of May,
the resultant plants
will be ready to put
out on June 10, a
date quite early enough, as young, robust plants
are much more valuable than those stunted
through being kept in the pots too long.
Sow one seed in a 3-inch pot filled with
loam, leaf-soil and sand in equal propor-
tions. No. I, Fig. A, shows how the seeds
must be sown. It is a wise plan to sow them in
fairly moist soil ; then, if the pots are placed
in a warm position, the seeds will germinate
without being watered. But it is essential that
the soil be kept moist, else germination will be
delayed ; furthermore, after it has started, the
-SHOWING SEED SOWN
IN POT AND SEEDLING
WELL ESTABLISHED.
C. DIAGRAM TO ILLUSTRATE HOW TO
FERTILISE THE FLOWERS.
embryo plant will perish if the soil suddenly
becomes very dry at this season. A warm frame
is the most suitable structure for the young plants
until a fortnight prior to their being put in their
summer quarters, and during that fortnight they
must be retained in a cold frame, where they can
be fully exposed in the daytime and partly so at
night. No. 2 shows a plant in a 6-inch pot at a
suitable stage for planting out.
Making the Beds. — In the meantime the culti-
vator must form the beds in readiness for the
plants. It is a mistake to select a much-shaded
position or one exposed to east winds. An open,
sunny quarter is best. It is tmwise to build
up a high, dry bed of straw and put on it only a
few small heaps of common garden soil. A solid
heap of soil, weeds and other garden rubbish would
be better. The best bed, however, is one similar
to Fig. B. It is composed of rotted manure
and good loam, with a free admixture of half-
rotted leaf-soil, and is about a foot above the
genera! level of the surrounding ground.
Planting and Training. — No. i, Fig, B, shows
the plant ; Nos. 2, 2, side shoots ; Nos. 3, 3, the
side shoots stopped when several fruits have
formed on each. The leading shoot need not
be stopped at all, but be trained and_^ pegged
down on the bed, so as to fill up nicely all surface
space without undue crowding. Allow a space
of 5 feet from plant to plant.
Fertilising or "Setting" the Fruits.—
Like Melons and Cucumbers, Vegetable Marrows
bear male (staminate) and female (pistillate)
flowers. In Fig. C, No. i denotes a male flower ;
No. 2, a male flower with half of the yellow flower
petals removed. No. 3 shows the bared stigma.
No. 4 represents the embryo fruit or Marrow, and
No. 5 the stigma of the male bloom inserted in the
centre. All cultivators of Vegetable Marrows do
not go to the trouble of thus setting the fruits, but
leave it to bees and other insects. Sometimes full
crops are obtained thus ; but it is well worth while,
especially in dull, cold seasons, to artificially
set the fruits. Water when it is needed, and
feed liberally after there are a number of Marrows
swelling nicely. G. G.
THE HERBACEOUS BORDER IN MAY.
The herbaceous border is once more alive with
new growth in all directions, and with these signifi-
cant and welcome signs before us arises the thought
as to how best we can assist Nature to perform
her perfect work. There are just at this time
many duties requiring attention, among which is
Mulching. — The recent spell of abnormally
warm weather will have perforce turned gardeners'
minds to the expediency of mulching, even thus
early in the season, and this is certainly advisable,
as subsequent results will no doubt prove. For
this purpose the manure need not be of the decidedly
" old " type, recommended for use when digging
in. It should not, however, be laid on in large
" cakes," but be first well broken up with the
fork, remembering that the object of a mulch
is to prevent undue evaporation of moisture
round the roots, while at the same time not obstruct-
ing air access. In the event of mulching material
not being available (manure is not essential ; grass
or hedge cuttings answer the purpose), the next
best thing is to keep the top soil in a friable con-
dition by frequent use of the Dutch hoe. As a
matter of fact, keeping a permanently good surface
tilth will always be found extremely beneficial
to the plants, and especially during dry
weather. In illustration of this point, a friend of
the writer's places so much confidence in his Dutch
hoe — with justifiable results — that he never uses
a watering-can at all ! And this garden is always
" fair to look upon." We will now consider the
question of
Thinning. — The present is an opportune time
for reducing the number of shoots on such perennials
as Phloxes, Delphiniums, Achilleas, and similar
subjects. The weak, and therefore undesirable,
B. MARROW PLANTS IN BED, WITH SIDE
SHOOTS STOPPED AFTER FRUIT IS SET.
shoots need to be removed, and frequently also
a few stems from the centre of the plant, in order
to allow the remainder room to develop. Next
comes the necessary consideration of
Staking. — It is of importance that this duty, be
commenced early. Bamboo canes are excellent for
the purpose. The aim in view should be to keep the
plant growing in as natural a position as possible ;
hence large-sized plants may require several stakes.
In tying, say, a plant of Erigeron, it will be found
to be worth while not only to surround the whole
with the tying material, but also to cross and re-
cross it through the plant — this will tend to prevent
crooked flower-stems. B. W. L.
234
THE GARDEN.
[May 9, 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
Peach and Nectarine Trees in Late Houses
require careful attention withi respect to ttiinning
and tying the young shoots. This is a very im-
portant matter, especially if the trees are young,
for if they are neglected at this stage it is a difficult
matter to make good trees of them afterwards.
WhUe tying in the young shoots, a space of 4 inches
should be allowed between them. Choose the best-
placed shoots of medium size, and remove every-
thing which is not required for next season's crop.
Apple and Pear Trees in Pots. — Now that the
fruits are swelling, these trees may be given a
little more liberal treatment. Syringe twice daily,
but never with sufficient force to injure the soft,
young foliage. Water with great care, and when
necessary give water in sufficient quantity to reach
the extremities of the roots. Top-dress the pots
with fine loam and a sprinliling of artificial manure.
Plants Under Glass.
Deutzia gracilis. — These plants may be culti-
cated in pots for a number of years, providing they
are carefully pruned and thinned out after flower-
ing. The plants should then be placed in a warm,
moist atmosphere until the new growths are fully
developed, when they ought to be removed to cooler
quarters and gradually hardened and prepared for
plunging out of doors.
Fuchsias. — Young plants raised from cuttings
should now be ready for their final potting. The
compost may consist of turfy loam, leaf-mould
and cow-manure, with a good sprinkling of rough
sand. Grow the plants in a warm, moist atmo-
sphere, and use the syringe freely. If standards
are required, strong, straight plants must be
selected and neatly staked. All side shoots should
be removed until the plant has reached the
necessary height, when the top ought to be removed
The Flower Garden.
Antirrhinums. — Plants raised from early sown
seed will now be ready for planting in their flowering
quarters. If distinct colours are desired, it may
be necessary to examine the foliage of each plant
to make quite certain it is of the proper type.
For dwarf varieties a space of 12 inches will be
sufficient between the plants, but for tall-growing
sorts 18 inches should be allowed.
East Lothian Stocks may be planted out as
soon as the plants are of suitable size, allowing
a space of 15 inches between the plants. Water
freely and make the soil firm about the roots.
Gladioli. — If these have been forwarded in
pots, no time should be lost in placing them in
their flowering quarters, making the soil as firm as
possible about the roots without breaking the ball
of soil in which they have been started into growth.
As soon as the flower-stems are of sufficient height,
secure them to a strong stick.
Shrubs. — Late-planted shrubs should be freely
watered during dry weather and the stems syringed
late in the afternoon. A mulching of decayed
manure may be applied with advantage previous
to watering witli clear, soft water.
Plants for Summer Bedding. — Pelargoniums,
Fuchsias, Heliotropes and all plants intended for
summer bedding ought to be removed to cooler
quarters and prepared for planting in the flower-
beds when the proper time arrives. During the
next few weeks it will be necessary to examine
the plants several times daily, in order to avoid
injury from want of moisture at the roots.
Sweet Peas. — A sowing may be made now
for the supply of blooms during August and
September. If sowrx in the open, the soil should
be thoroughly prepared before the seeds are placed
in the ground ; but if pots and space are available,
the plants may be raised imder glass and planted
out when sufficiently advanced.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Mulching. — There should be no delay in mulch-
ing recently planted fruit trees. This ought to be
accomplished before watering. It may be advisable
to leave one or two fruits on recently planted
trees in order to test the variety, but nothing
beyond this should be attempted the first season, or
the trees will become stunted, and may be perma-
nently injured in consequence.
Strawberries. — The protection of strawberry-
flowers from frost is an important matter, especially
in low-lying districts. On early borders it is an
easy matter to cover the plants with blinds, which
should be available in all gardens where early
fruits are expected. In the open garden consider-
able protection may be afforded by placing a
quantity of dry stable litter loosely between
the plants ; this will protect them from cold
wind, and, in the event of frost, may be lightly
sprinkled over the foliage. It may eventually
be used to mulch the bed and protect the fruits
from splashing by heavy rain.
The Kitchen Garden.
French Beans. — Plants in pots from which
supplies are bemg gathered will not require much
fire-heat, but should be well supplied with manure-
water. Syringe the foliage twice daily, or red
spider may prove troublesome. Plants in heated pits
ought to be freely ventilated, and the bed should
be thoroughly watered whenever necessary.
Further plantations may be made in cold pits to
afford supplies before they are available from the
open garden.
Beetroot. — Early sown Beet in pits should be
freely ventilated to keep it from becoming drawn.
Allow a space of 6 inches between the plants, and
water the bed freely with clear, soft water. Make
frequent small sowings of Tumip-rooted Beet from
now until the middle of July ; these will prove
useful during the summer and autumn. The
principal sowing of long-rooted Beet may be made
now.
Celery. — Continue to prick out young Celery
plants on a sheltered border for planting in the
trenches in June, and take the earliest opportunity
to prepare the trenches so that the plants may be
put out as soon as large enough. Water freely
with soft, clear water, and damp the plants over-
head until they are quite established in the trenches.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Beet. — In most districts it is now quite safe
to make the principal sowing, which in many
instances is the only one. Sow in drills .1 foot
to r5 inches apart and 2 inches deep in ground
that has been well manured the previous season.
Thin out as soon as the plants can be handled.
I do not advise transplanting the thinnings, as,
unless in very favourable weather, I have not
seen them ever come to much. Wliere the seed
has not come up well, it is much better to sow
a little more seed in the blanks. These will come
early enough to make nice, serviceable roots.
Turnips. — A larger breadth may now be sown,
but avoid doing so in continual dry weather,
which would assuredly be a source of disappoint-
ment. The better plan is to sow when there is
a prospect of rain or immediately after showery
weather.
The Flower Garden.
Planting Hollies. — In our Northern climate
these may be planted from now till the beginning
of June ; indeed, I have seen large numbers of
fine specimens moved up to the second week
of that month, with the best results. Of course,
with these, as with other choice shrubs, the plant-
ing will have to be done with the greatest care.
If there should be any doubt of their suiYering
from the shift, go over them carefully and cut
out a branch here and there where it will be least
observed. This will ease the plant considerably.
Bamboos. — These graceful evergreens, which
play such an important part in the beautifying
of our gardens, may now be divided and replanted.
Where one has difficulty in getting them to grow
satisfactorily, it may be pointed out that they
should be sheltered from the cold north-east
winds and partially shaded. Should the natural
soil not be quite suitable, this can be made good
by taking out pits 2 feet deep and a sufficient
width, and making them up with good garden soil
mixed with some well-rotted manure. After plant-
ing, the plants should be well watered and mulched
with some stable manure. With a suitable
selection of hardy varieties, there is no reason
why they should not thrive almost in any district.
Box Edges. — From now till the end of the
month is perhaps the best time to have all Box
edges clipped. It is, however, no uncommon
thing to see this work being done as early as
March. This is a great mistake, as if done so
early in the season the plants are sure to suffer
from frost, and present a wliitened appearance.
Pansies and Violas. — Continue to pick the
flower-buds off as they appear for some little
time yet. This will enable the plants to become
well established, and they will not be so likely
to be affected by drought.
Border Carnations wUi be greatly benefited
by a dressing of soot between the rows, and after-
wards have the soil stirred with the Dutch hoe.
This may be repeated during the growing season.
Varieties of the King Arthur type, which produce
little or no grass, should in a number of cases
have the flower-spike pinched to induce the
plants to break and produce grass for layering.
Plants Under Glass.
Primulas. — Where more than one batch of
these serviceable greenhouse plants are required,
a sowing may be made now. The compost should
consist of equal parts of leaf-mould and loam,
with the addition of a little silver sand. This
must be pressed moderately firm in the seed-pan
and watered some time previous to sowing. The
seed should be sown very thinly, have the merest
covering of fine soil, and afterwards be placed
in the warmest part of the greenhouse.
Cyclamen. — The strongest of the young plants
will now be ready for potting on, and must be
kept near the glass to promote a sturdy growth.
It is of the utmost importance that the young
plants be kept free from aphis, as if allowed to
get a foothold at this stage they never do much
good. To keep them free it will be necessary
to fumigate them frequently. Shade them during
the hottest part of the day and pot on the remainder
as they are ready.
Dendrobiiun nobile. — This beautiful Orchid, so
easy of cultivation, will now be making its growth,
and should have attention. Some of the plants
will require potting, others top-dressing ; but they
should not be disturbed at the roots more than
is necessary. Remove them to the warmest
part of the plant stove, where they will get plenty
of light, and, if they are established in baskets,
they may be watered freely and syringed several
times a day to keep down red spider and thrip.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Swelling Fruits. — .-^s the fruits of all wall
trees begui to swell, a good coating of manure
should be placed round each tree, and, w'here at
all possible, be given a good soaking. Continue to
examine trees just set and reduce the bunches
considerably. The practical man will have no
difficulty in knowing which to retain.
Strawberries. — Plants m pots that have been
moderately forced may be planted out in a prepared
bed and well watered. These will often give
a supply of fruit in the late autumn, whicli will
be immensely appreciated. On account of the
roots being matted together, the plants must be
kept supplied with water duruig the season.
Fruits Under Glass.
Figs. — The fruit in the earliest house will be
ripening, and must have less moisture and more
air admitted. Trees swelling the fruit will require
abundant supplies of water, besides frequent
doses of liquid manure. Thin out and stop shoots
to avoid overcrowding, as each shoot must be
fully exposed to the sun to develop the next crop.
Vines. — There will be much to do in the vineries
during the next few weeks. In the earliest
house the Grapes will be colouring, and these
will require abundance of air, while in succession
houses the Grapes will be swelling and the latest
varieties will now be breaking. Keep a sharp
look-out for those destructive weevils which play
such havoc with the foliage. Where they are
troublesome, the best time to search for them
is just as darkness is coming on. Thej' will be
foimd on the back wall, and if newspapers are
placed under the rods, they can be caught by
givuig the rods a sharp tap, when they will fail
into the paper. They should then be collected
and destroyed.
John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Lin'ithgt^w.)
Hopcloun Gardens, Soiilli Qiurns/erry, N.H.
May 9, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
235
SEASONABLE NOTES ON
AURICULAS.
THIS month the plants will be getting
past their best, and the earlier-flowering
varieties are nearly over. The flowers
should be pinched off at the top of
the truss and the stem allowed to
gradually die and dry up, when it
can be easily removed later on.
Repotting. — I always like to have the bulk
of the repotting done during the month of May,
and usually begin directly the plants have passed
the flowering stage. The rooting medium should
consist of the best fibrous loam three parts and
leaf-mould one part, to which is added a sprinkling
of sharp sand or crushed oyster shells. A 6-inch
potful to every bushel of the mixture will be
ample. Where the loam is of poor quality, a
little decayed manure or bone-meal may be in-
corporated in the compost. This must not,
however, be overdone, and for the benefit of the
beginner I may state that a 4-inch potful of bone-
meal to each bushel of soil will be sufficient ; but
with decayed manure, such as may be obtained
from an old hot-bed, the careful grower is not
likely to exceed the limit.
How to Repot, — Large pots are not required,
and for fully grown plants I should select a
receptacle about four inches in diameter, with,
perhaps, a pot half an inch larger for exceptionally
fine specimens. Smaller examples should be
placed in pots just large enough to comfortably
take the roots. The best pots for Auriculas
are those of the long thumb pattern, and are
usually supplied without rims and not glazed.
Good drainage is most essential, and the pots
can be filled one-third of their depth with clean
potsherds, over which is arranged a thin layer
of fibrous loam to secure a free outlet for water.
Both the pots and the drainage material must
be quite clean, and if they have been previously
used for Auriculas, a good scrubbing will be
needed to remove all traces of the woolly aphis.
Having prepared the soU and pots, the repotting
may be commenced. All the old drainage is
taken away and most of the soil, but I do not
agree with the method of shaking all the compost
out and washing the roots in a concoction of
soft soap and water. Enough soil, however, must
be removed so that the tap-root can be examined,
and if the end is decayed, it should be cut back
to the living tissue and then rubbed over with a
little powdered charcoal or lime. In all probability
the roots will be partially covered with the woolly
aphis, but the amateur need not be alarmed,
as it is very questionable whether this pest does
any harm. Before disturbing the ball of soil 1
just go over the roots with methylated spirit
or Tobacco powder if this pest is present, and
most, if not all, of the aphides are destroyed.
The plants are placed in the pots so that
the leaves are near the soil, which is made
moderately firm, leaving sufficient space for
watering purposes.
After-Treatment. — This I shall deal with
more fully next month. For the present keep the
plants shaded from all strong sunlight till they
are re-established. A good watering will be
needed after they have been arranged in their
growing quarters, and afterwards they must only
have enough water to just keep them from
drooping. T. W. Briscoe.
SCHOOL FLOWER SHOWS
IN SPRING.
FOR the last seven or eight years we
have had, every spring, a show of
bulbs grown in pots at our small
school. During three years of this
time we were fortunate in having
Mr. Charles Hodson as our master,
for he did much to develop it, and to him we owe
much of our success. Twelve months ago he
left to take charge of the large and important
boys' school at Paddock, which is now practically
part of Huddersfield. Thither he has trans-
planted our show. On Saturday, March 7,
the offset bloomed. I was there to see it, and
the result gave me a very great deal of pleasure
and satisfaction. I came away feeling more
than ever that all such shows are an admirable
adjunct to the ordinary curriculum of a school.
Children, parents, grandparents, friends, old
scholars, educational big-wigs, inspectors, school
managers, clergy and teachers filled the room.
for their own sake, which in turn may, I hope,
become the foundation of a hobby which for
rich and poor alike is surely among those that
are the most lasting, pleasure-giving and practic-
able of all.
The illustration on this page gives one a very
good idea of how the schoolroom and desks may
be arranged. If the competitive classes of the
children can be supplemented by a display from
a neighbouring greenhouse, or if some cut flowers
can be begged for selling, it will add to the interest.
The success of the display naturally depends
upon the varieties of bulbs chosen for the children
to grow. Tulips are always the difficulty, and I
do not recommend these until the children have
become familiar with growing Daffodils and
Hyacinths. I have also found by experience that
either the last Satmrday in February or the first
one in March are the best dates for the show.
The two main items of expense are the pro-
vision of prizes and the purchase of bulbs. We
generally at my own school give four prizes, or
sometimes five, in each class. As a rule, they are
one shilling, ninepence, sixpence and threepence.
A DAFFODIL SHOW IN A SCHOOLROOM.
rubbed shoulders, looked at the flowers, and
generally hobnobbed and talked.
Thus partition walls of aloofness and prejudice
are broken down, interest is kindled and stimulated,
opportunities for home visits by the head teacher
and his assistants are given, and a day quite out
of the ordinary is forthwith established, which
is looked forward to both by teachers and children
as one of the red-letter days of the school year.
To the above add the esprit de corps which all
these tilings undoubtedly fosters, and I think I have
made out a case for school shows even without
any direct reference to the plants themselves.
The direct benefit in teaching gardening by
growing a few Tulips, Hyacinths and Daffodils
in pots is very small indeed. Something about
the functions of roots and leaves, the necessity
for water, the influence of cold and heat, and
the importance of a pure atmosphere may be
picked up by the sharper children. But for
the many, perhaps the most particular good that
this participation in the show confers is in the
having something to look after and think about in a
rather dull time of the year, coupled, perchance,
in certain cases with the learning to love flowers
Suppose, then, that there are eight classes, the
prize money would come to one pound. Again,
each potful, whether it be one Hyacinth, four
Daffodils or three Tulips, is sold for a penny,
so there is the difference between the cost to the
school and the selling price to the children to
be made up. By the way, sales should always be
effected under colour and never under name.
I close these notes with a list of what I have
found by practical experience to be the best
varieties of each to grow, having due regard
to price and dissimilarity : Tulips.. — Vermilion
Brilliant and possibly La Reine. Daffodils. —
Golden Spur, obvallaris, princeps. Queen Bess,
Sir Watkin and Telamonius plenus. Polyanthus
Narcissus. — Dr. Holland, Mont Cenis and Alsace
(Poetaz). Hyacinths. — L'Innocence, General de
Wet, Marie, Oranje Boven, Schotel, R. Steiger,
Grand Maitre and Lady Derby— really, I may say
any variety that opens well and has a strong
stem.
A list of bulbs suitable for growing for a first show
with eight classes is here appended : Daffodils (three
in a pot, except Queen Bess).- — Golden Spur, prin-
ceps. Queen Bess (four in a pot) and Sir Watkin.
236
THE GARDEN.
[May 9, 1914
Polyanthus Narcissus (three in a pot). — Dr. Holland.
Hyacinths (one in a pot). — L'Innocence (white),
Schotel (pale blue) and General de Wet (pale
pink). If only six classes are required, leave
out Queen Bess and Sir Watkin. If twelve
classes are wanted, add Tulip (three or four in a
pot) Vermilion Brilliant ; Hyacinths Oranje
Boven and Grand Maltre ; and Poetaz (three in a
pot) Alsace. The most useful-sized pots are
4-inch, 5-inch and 6-inch. Joseph Jacob.
[We are pleased to publish iVIr. Jacob's article,
and hope that it will induce others to hold similar
shows. Those who have never seen it cannot
realise the vast amount of pleasure that a child
obtains from cultivating a few bulbs in pots.
It is summed up in those magic words of pride :
" I have growed them myself." Mr. Jacob will
be glad to give anyone assistance who is con-
templating starting a show of this kind. — Ed.]
FILMY FERNS FOR A
STRUCTURE.
COOL
IT is matter for surprise that the Filmy Ferns,
even in large establishments, are generally
conspicuous by their absence. I can only
assign one reason for this, viz., that their
merits have not been sufficiently brought
before the public, either by vendors or
writers. They are invariably foimd, with true
modesty, like a King-designate of old, hiding away
among other plants. Having had the privUege of
servmg my apprenticeship where one stately
specimen of the class (Todea superba) was grown,
I have always had a warm place in my affections
for the " Filmies," and have continued to cultivate
a few ; most visitors who come this way are invited
to have a peep at them, and few see them who
do not readily appreciate their beauty.
Their culture is very simple, shade and moisture
being the two essential conditions. Here we grow
the Todeas in a small unheated structure at the
north side of the fernery, while a Trichomanes
and several Hymenophyllums are gro^vn in a
Wardian case in the fernery, where a warm green-
house temperature is maintained ; but any of
those noted below can be grown in an unheated
structure if they are not subjected to more than
a few degrees of frost. The Todeas are best grown
in pots, but the Hymenophyllums do better in
pans, and the Trichomanes can be grown m
either. All of them should have perfect drainage,
and they all succeed well in a compost of equal parts
of turfy loam, turfy peat, rough Oak or Beech
leaf-mould and sand, with a liberal admixture
of rough charcoal and sandstone. They may
remam undisturbed for several years. As already
indicated, they love shade, and from early March
to late September they should be heavily shaded.
With regard to watering, they should be sprayed
once or twice daily durmg summer and every
few days during winter, according to weather
conditions and the character and location of the
structure. Water must also be supplied liberally
at the roots, especially in the case of the Todeas.
The following are grown here, and can all be
heartily recommended for cool treatment : Todea
superba and T. pellucida— these two require
ample room, as under suitable conditions they
develop fronds over two feet in length ; Hymeno-
phyllum demissum, H. tunbridgense and Tricho-
manes radicans Andrewsii, an improved variety
of the Killamey Fern. Charles Comfort.
Broomfield Gardens, Davidson's Mains, Midlothian.
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
Evenj department of horticulture is represented in The
Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions
relating to matters upon which they wish expert advice.
The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and tiotes,
but he will not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, toill be taken, and ivhere stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.
As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks thai the price required for reproduction be plainly staled.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.
The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden ivill alone
be recognised as acceptance.
Offices : 20. Tavistock Street. Covcnt Garden. TT.C
ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
We liave seen this olj Hose covering lofty house fronts
in Devonshire, making a glorious show, and the i.runing
adopted has generallv been carried out with the siiears.
We planted several plants of this Kose last year quite late,
and cut them back Hard, with the result that we had flne
clusters from the extreme ends of the new growths, and,
as you say. with glorious foliage.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS. -TAe Editor iiilemis to
make THE GARDES helpful to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
loith that object will make a speeial feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications sjiould be
clearly and concisely written on one side of tlie paper only,
and aJdressed to the EDITOR of THE GARDEN, 20. Tai'istock
Street, Corent Garden, London. W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation lie
may desire to be used in the paper. Wlie.n more than one
query is sent, each sitould be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming sliould be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not colton-icool. and flowering
slioots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
sjnall scraps tliat are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the PrBLISHER.
FLOWER GARDEN.
VIOLETS NOT DOING WELL (0. R ).— We fear we
cannot s;iv what tlie cause uf the trouble is without seeing
the specimens, but we tliink your best plan would be to
make up quite new beds before starting the plants in the
frames, keep them thoroughly ventilated, and make sure
water never stands about their crowns.
IRIS RETICULATA {V . S. A.).— It you permit the
plants to mature tlieir season's groivth and lift the bulbs
any time between the middle of June and the middle of
July, no harm will ensue. The larger bulbs will then flower
in 1915 quite weU. It is important that tlic bulbs are not
sun-dried, that is, spread out in the sun to dry, and equally
important that they are not kept too long out of the soil.
If you give the bulbs a maximum period of one month's
rest, keeping them meantime in a pot of quite dry sand,
they will be quite safe. Kept too long in the dry state,
a spr-cies of dry-rot overtakes the bulbs and they perish
in the soil after planting. When replanting, employ a
liberal depth of sandy loam and avoid crude manures.
ROSE GARDEN.
BANKSIAN ROSE NOT FLOWERING {F. S.).— You
must not prune the small twiggy growths; but if the tree
is too smothered with big shoots, cut some quite out t,o
their base, so as to allow sun and air to enter freely. If
you could train the tree into a sort of bower, we think
you would soon obtain blooms in your part of the world.
The Dorothy Perkins should have some of its main growths
trained horizontally, and if there is a dense mass of gro\vths,
cut out some of the very oldest at once. The small shoots
springing from the main growths should be cut back to
two or three eves, excepting some which may be stronger
than the other's. These you can retain from 12 inches to
18 inches in length.
PRUNING A SWEET BRIAR HEDGE {E. C.).— It
is usual to prune hedges o£ Sweet Briar after the flowers
are over, but, providing you do not mind losing a certain
nufaber of flowers, the work may be done at once. Cut
as much of the old wood out as possible, and tie the younger
branches mto position in order to keep the fence of uniform
density. Towards the end of the summer go over the hedge
again and remove or shorten any branches, where necessary,
thus leaving it tidy for the winter. If you require to
mcrease your stock of Violets, leave a sutticient number
of runuers for your purpose ; but if you tliink that you
can procure all the plants you require by dividing the
old ones, then remove all the runners at once, for they
will oidy tend to weaken the old plants.
PRUNING ROSE REVE D'OR (£. L. ./., Croydon).—
Yes ■ our correspondent was right in his advice. 01 course,
you would not cover your wall so quickly by cutting back
the annual growths so hard as recommended on page lo4,
but you would obtain blooms of a superior quality from
the ends of the long growths. There would, doubtless,
be some flowerless growths, but if these were pinched in
the autumn they would ripen well and flower the next year.
THE GREENHOUSE.
INJURY TO PELARGONIUMS iZonal).—TlK Pelar-
goniums liave apparentlv been grown in a moist atmo-
sphere with rather a higli temperature. This has made
the leaves sappy, and immediately tlie plants suiter,
if only for a short time, from drraess at the root, or arc
stood" in a dry atmosphere or in a draught, the leaves
lose more water than thev can afford, with the consequence
that they " burn," as those sent have done. The remedy,
of course, lies in checking the rapid growtli of the foliage
by altering the conditions.
CULTIVATION OF LOTUS PLANTS [Lady Beaumont).—
Lotus plants should be grown in luaniy soil in shallow
water in a greenhouse where a tropical temperature
can be maintained. The best results are secured when
the plants can be grown in a tank, the soil coming to
within a few inches of the surface of the water, and a
constant supply of fresh water maintained. Fah results
may also be obtained by planting the roots in tubs,
providing care is taken to give fresh water daily. Use
four parts good fibrous loam and one part leaf-mould with
silver sand about the roots. The plants resent frequent
root disturbance, therefore care must be taken to plant
them permanently when they are first put out. Full sun
is necessary to success.
FRUIT GARDEN.
CHERRY BLOSSOM STERILE (J. H.).— The cause
of the flowers not setting, we think, lies in their
qu.ahty. If vou will examine them closely, you wall
probably find that there is very little poUen on the
anthers If this is not so and the pollen is abundant
and strong, there is no reason wiiy the fruit should not
set freely if you will take the precaution of distributing
the poUen among the flowers on dry, warm days witll a
rabbit's tail so that it comes in cficctive contact -with the
stigma or centre column of the flower. If it turns out that
the qualitv of the flowers is at fault, your best way is
to take up" the trees and replant them in rather lighter soil
(althou!:li the Cherry likes a strong sod), adding plenty
of drainage, and planting the top roots of the trees practi-
caUv on a level with the surface soil, mounding up the surface
soirto a height of 5 inches. This should be done im-
mediatelv after the trees shed their leaves.
THE VINE AND ITS AERIAL ROOTS (£. D.).— This
is a common experience with the Vine, especially with
those Vines which are gctthig old. The prmiary cause,
we think arises from the fact of the root action being too
sluggish and weak to support the crop of foliage and fnut.
caiSing the Vines to throw out these roots (aerial) for
further help, the growth of which the moist air of the
vinery encourages. Vines are sometimes propagated
by these " porcupine fibres," as you call them. .All you
have to do is to tie a 5-inch flower-pot full of soil at the
junction of a shoot from which the roots emanate. This
must be done on the first appearance of the roots. At
the end of the summer the pot will be lull of roots,
and the shoot to which they are attached may
then be severed from the Vine, and at once becomes
a detached entity. The way to prevent their recurrence is
to renew the Vine borders in autumn with proper \ inesoU.
MISCELLANEOUS.
INJURY FROM CREOSOTE FUMES (E. i.).— It is
highly probable that the creosote fumes have been the
source of the trouble. Could you not take the plants
out and beat the house up for a while? lailmg this,
standing pails of water about m the house may help to
absorb the fumes.
TO CLEAR A POND OF ALGffi (G. S. C.).— All that
you can do towards clearing your pond of Alga is to use
copper sulphate at the rate of one part to from 750,000
to 1,000,000 parts of water. At this strength it is
unlikely to injure tlie pUants round about, neither will it
have any serious eltect upon the water in the well, ine
same chemical is used in some countries for clearing
reservoirs of drinking water from w-eeds of the Algffi
type Water LUies will grow among the weed but will
not smother it ; in fact, the weed m the end mil probably
exorcise a more harmful influence upon the Lihes than
tile Lilies upon the weed.
TOMATOES IN BOXES <,Nemo).—VoT single plants a
box 1 foot long. 10 inches wide, and 5 inches or a inches
deep mil be large enough. Top-dressings of sml and
manure may be added in due course. If two or more
SaSts are grown in a box, the latter should al ord accoiumo-
dation for the plants in due proportion, the boi for a
,in"le plant being taken as a guide.
' NAMES OF PhMiTS.—Bramford.—-Pyias spectabihs.
_JlrNi7he—l Helleborus foetidus ; 2, Bdlbergia nutans.
Cherry— I, Pruuus scrrulata ; 2, Lonicera punioea.
as "a — Orchis mascula. Qudit/i. G/o».— Daphne
pontica;' quite hardy,, thrives best hi «'""lj--— ^„f •;
Sleaford — Staphy ca puinata. 0. O.— 1, Piunus J:'auu3
fSd Ciierrv) ; 2, Albuca fastigiata ; 3, Arthropodium
urhatiL.— iJ.-^(<.r B«,d.r-Tbe Tulip ;^,, "" »"i. "»"
named garden variety. It somewbal resembles Eosc
Dor^e.
f0 ts are a valuable section of our spring-
flowering plants, their blue colour making such a
pleasing contrast to the yellow of the Narcissi
which bloom at the same time in my garden,
the Myosotis forming a neat and charming carpet
through which the Daffodils push up. Of the
several Forget-me-nots now seen in the alpine
garden, the form of M. alpestris known as rupicola
(or is it a species ?) is very dwarf and attractive ;
while another of considerable charm and becoming
deservedly popular is the variety Ruth Fischer,
having particularly bright-coloured flowers with a
yellow centre. For the bog, M. CEespitosa
Disease in Cllionodoxas. — I am much inter-
ested in the note by .Mr. Hadden and your editorial
remarks upon it on page 215, issue May 2.
The fact that Ustilago Vaillanti occurs on Chiono-
doxas was first made known to me by some bulbs
being sent me by Mr. Edward Whittall of
Smvnia, with a remark to the effect that they
had a " smoke-coloured eye." On their flowering,
the centre of the flower was seen to be filled with
grey fungoid growth, and Mr. Whittall afterwards
wrote to inform me that the " smoke-coloured eye "
was caused by this fimgoid disease. On observing
it I pinched off the flower, but the following
year the fungus again appeared. In some follow-,
ing seasons the same thing happened, but I never
saw any other plants, either of Chionodoxa or
Scilla, affected with this Ustilago in my garden.
As the disease appeared to be persistent in the
bulbs, I lifted and destroyed them, in case they
MYOSOTIS RUTH FISCHER. THIS HAS BRIGHT BLUE FLOWERS WITH YELLOW CENTRES.
Rehsteineri is a delightful subject, producing its
brilliant Eritrichium-like flower ij inches to
2 inches above the soil, and spreading in a close
matted carpet over the moist earth. — Reginald
Malby.
Iris piunila. — The illustration on page 225
of last week's issue shows clearly that the Iris
in question is not I. pumila but I. Chamairis,
for the plant apparently produces a stem of several
inches in length. This is I. Chamaeiris from the
South of France and North Italy. The true I.
pumila has practically no stem, but a perianth
tube of 2 inches or 3 inches in length. I. pumila
is in many localities even more variable in colour
than 1. Chamaeiris, which in some districts is all
yellow, in others all purple, while in others, again,
many colour varieties are found growing together.
Ur! fortunately, the true 1. pumila is comparatively
rare in cultivation.. — W. R. Dykes, Charterhouse,
Godalming..
affected others. The bulbs were those of Chiono-
doxa sardensis. Your advice to remove the
affected plants as soon as seen is excellent, and
should be followed. — .S. Arnott, Dumfries.
Primulas Causing Rash. — I should like to call
the attentifiii ')f y(»ur readers to the danger attend-
ing the growing of Primula obconica and P.
malacoides. I have grown these plants in my
conservatory for a number of years, and they have
been a great sou"ce of pleasure to me, as well as
being most useful for table decoration. My gardener
has worked among them with the greatest freedom
for many years, but this year he was attacked
most severely with a rash, which caused great
suffering and sleeplessness. I had, therefore,
much to my regret, to destroy over fifty fine plants.
May I suggest to anyone growing these plants
that gloves should be worn while handling them ?
In addition to the above-named Primulas, 1 have
grown P. kewensis. I should feel glad if any of
your readers would recommend any new Primula
suitable for growing inside in winter which would
be free from this danger of rash. — J. D.
Aster Disease. — In your issue of the 4th ult.,^
page 167, there is a corroboration from a Kentish
reader, " T. W.," of my advice re treating China
Asters as hardy annuals ; he then arraigns me for
advising non-thinning of the seedlings. I do advise
it, where necessary, but in the great majority of
cases the seed is too scarce to make a thick sowing ;
also I was more concerned with disease prevention
than with general culture, and wittingly used the
words "neither transplanted nor thinned," because
I have purposely left very thick sowings as an
experiment to see if the decrease of stamina so
caused would render the plants susceptible to-
disease, but found it was not so, and in each case
the quality of the bloom surpassed my expectations,,
considering their crowded condition. Moreover,
against the theory that the disease
is largely caused by the plants getting
leggy in the seed-boxes, it is a well-
kno^vn practice in many under-
staffed gardens to sow half-hardy
annuals so thinly in the seed-boxes
that the pricking off process may
be omitted. Under these circum-
stances the young plants have no
chance of becoming leggy, and yet
I know from experience that Asters
so treated are unreliable, and, apart
from this, it would not account for
large thriving plants — the picture of
health and often actually in bloom —
collapsing and dying in an hour or
so. — F. JI. S., East Yorks.
Saxifraga burseriana and its^
Varieties. — If I should be. one of
the perpetrators who have used ttie
word " type" in a misleading sense,.
I beg " E. H. J.'s" (page 215) for-
giveness, asking him to put the
blunder down to my inexact know-
ledge of English. I now see I should
have spoken of " species " for these,
as they occur in Nature. I meant
to refer to it in my note (page 179,
April 11). I am, however, pleased
" E. H. J." referred to the late Mr.
Selfe Leonard as having been the
first to introduce improved types
" from a new locality," for this com-
mendation reflects some of its rays on
my mediation. In the spring of 1897
Mr. Selfe Leonard recei\'ed from me a
large consignment of S. burseriana, in reference to-
which he wrote me in the ensuing spring that by it
he had made a most satisfactory purchase, the
majority of the plants having proved to be the
variety major. Since that time I have, almost
annually, supplied plants to England, collected
in that same locality, and cannot help thinking]
that to varieties selected from these consignments!
the big names now existing have been given. I do
not know whether S. burseriana is raised from
seeds to any extent in England. I had the
advantage of accompanying Mr. Selfe Leonard
on a pleasant trip in the Tyrol in the summer of
1897, and on his untimely death afterwards I
have, in memory of this gentleman's genial
personality, kept his catalogue by me ever since.
In this catalogue is figured a plant of S. bur.seriana
major, the photograph of which I have no doubt
was taken from one of those plants supplied io
him bv me. — E. Heinrich, Planegg. Bavaria.
May i6, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
239
Gentiana acaulis Sporting. — We have in this
nursery a bed of Gentiana acaulis raised from seed.
I notice among this bed one plant which I am sure
IS of interest to alpine plant growers. There are
two flowers on this plant, which has only one
head, and one flower is pure blue and the other
an absolutely pure white. It is not a case of
two seedlings planted together. I wonder if any
other readers of The Garden have had a similar
freak, as it must he. — R. R. H. Hayes, Alpine
Gardens, Keswick.
Winter Treatment of Gentiana verna. —
Last year I read in The Garden a note from
Mr. R. A. Malby advising that Gentiana verna
should be covered with glass during the winter.
I put glass not only over some plants of G. verna,
but also over some of G. acaulis last autumn.
The result has been eminently satisfactory, as
the covered plants have flowered bountifully
this spring, while those in the same bed which
received no such attention have not a bloom
upon them. I am very grateful to Mr. Malby
for the " tip " he gave The Garden readers.
Most probably he has gone far to solve the diffi-
culty many people have with these capricious
plants. — W. A. Bilney.
Hardiness of Arabis aubrietioides. — I observe
that some say that Arabis aubrietioides is as
hardy as the common white Arabis or Rock Cress.
1 must take exception to this, as A. aubrietioides
is not so hardy, and will not stand some severe
winters in which both A. alpina and A. albida
are unharmed. It should, I think, except in the
warmer parts of the United Kingdom, have a
more sheltered position than need be given the
other Arabises. It is acceptable to many because
of its delicate pink flowers. It is of looser habit
than most of the Aubrietias, but for the shade
of colour I should prefer Aubrietia Bridesmaid
to Arabis aubrietioides. The latter is, however,
a freer-growing subject, and looks well over the
stones of the rock garden. It is increased by
division of old plants or by cuttings or seeds. —
S. Arnoti. Dumfries, N.B
Too-Mueh-Alike Auriculas. — I have analysed
the price-lists of four of the principal specialists
of this lovely spring flower, and find enumerated
in the show section thirty green-edged, twenty-
four grey-edged, twenty-two white-edged and
forty sells, also one hundred and sixty alpines,
all deemed worthy to bear names. It is safe to
say that not more than 15 per cent, of the above
are ever entered for competition. Is it that the
remainder are not up to show form, or is it (as
in the case of Sweet Peas) a question of too much
alike ? Will one of the cognoscenti whose articles
in your valued paper have done so much to
popularise this flower, and whose advice has been
so valuable to all interested in its culture,
favour ns with a select list of alpines, limited to
those of very distinct coloration and omitting
high-priced novelties ? I am convinced that
such a list would be much appreciated by very
many enthusiastic but short-pursed novices
such as — Taplow.
Two Good Late Daffodils. — For the purposes
of this note I exclude the Poeticus varieties, and
refer to what are usually termed " Daffodils " by
ninety-nine people out of a hundred. Those who
wish to have as long a flowering season as possible
may be glad to make a note of Amber and Stead-
fast as two of the very latest to bloom. Both
belong to the peerless (2b) section, of which Lady
Margaret Boscawen is a well-known example.
Steadfast might be a small sister wearing the
same cut and same coloured clothes. Amber
has longer and narrower perianth segments, and
a much narrower cup or corona, which is of a
deep amber shade of yellow, in some years almost
an orange. Both varieties are robust growers,
and as useful for cutting as in the garden, for they
have fairly long stalks. I grow a variety called
Lady Jellicoe, which is the counterpart of Amber,
except that the coronals of a slightly deeper shade —
at least I think it is, but the difference is very
small. If anyone grows or laiows both of these
(Amber and Lady Jellicoe), I would be very much
obliged if they would send a short note about
them to The Garden. — Joseph Jacob.
Newly Planted Ctiionodoxas. — In view of
the evidence which appeared upon page 202,
I think I owe to the author of the original
note upon Chionodoxa sardensis an admission
that he is correct in stating it as a general
rule that this delightful spring bulb flowers better
when established than when freshly planted.
With reference to the Rev. Joseph Jacob's query,
I may say that my experience of this season's
bulbs is not an exceptional one. I well remember
that the first bulbs I ever planted, viz., about
seven or eight years ago, flowered more vigorously
than they have ever done since. I attributed
this to the fact that they partly exhausted their
strength in ripening a large quantity of seed.
But as to the colour of Chionodoxas, 1 am adamant.
Not all the colourmen in the world shall persuade
me that the blue of Gentiana acaulis, G. verna,
G. bavarica, G. septemfida and others is to be
found in the Chionodoxa. There are a few plants
with which I am acquainted, such as Tecophylaja
cya' ocrocus and Tillandsia Lindeiii, for example,
which possibly possess blue of a similar intensity.
But this is not suflicient. The unique value of
gentian blue lies in its metallic or mineral quality.
You find the same quality in certain butterflies,
most notably in a few Malaysian species. You
find it in certain minerals, and, lastly, in freshly
tempered steel. I have puzzled in vain to discover
why the Gentian should possess this peculiar
quality. Glorious as is the blue of the Chionodoxa,
the Anchusa (Dropmore) and such other pure blue
flowers as Neniophila insignis, Cyananthus lobatus,
Muscari Heavenly Blue and the Scillas, it is merely
blue. Gentian blue is something more, not
merely by reason of greater intensity, but by
reason of its heavenly lustre. Why should Mr.
Jacob call upon me to furnish a name for the
blue of Chionodoxa ? Is it bluer than the Scillas ?
Let us, rather than have to adopt the clumsy
expedient of referring to " Scilla " blue, " Chiono-
doxa " blue and so forth, unite our efforts to crush
the monsters who call Veilchenblau the " blue
Rose " ; who talk of the " blue " Gladiolus ;
who, having progressively applied the sacred
term " blue " to every conceivable shade of
purple, mauve and lilac, will in all human proba-
bility proceed next to commit the final desecra-
tion of applying it to magenta. Were we once to
rescue " blue " from the hands of these fiends
and restore it to its pristine significance, there
would be no need to invent fresh colour descrip-
tions.— Raymond E. Negus, Walion-on-Thames.
FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
May 19. — Royal Horticultural Society's Spring
Show at the Royal Hospital Gardens, Chelsea
(three days). Devon County Sliow (three days).
May 20. — National Tulip Society's Show at
Chelsea (two days).
SWEET PEA NOTES.
THE succession of brilliant sunny days
of the past weeks has done much to
mitigate the dire effects of the miserable
weather of the preceding month.
Sweet Peas under glass have revelled
in the sunshine and the air that could
be so freely given them, and, on the whole, the
prospects of a better Sweet Pea year are most
promising.
Sweet Peas Flowering Earlier. — A few years
ago it was considered exceptional to have a few
Sweet Pea blooms exhibited at the Temple Show,
but in mid-April I saw some magnificent blossoms.
Messrs. Dobbie and Co. have Sweet Peas the equal
of which I have never seen at this period of the
year, and we may expect a fine exhibit from them
at the forthcoming London Show. Certainly
the lovers of Sweet Peas owe a debt of gratitude
to a grower like Mr. Andrew Ireland, with whom
" streak " is unknown, and who proves conclusively
that the Sweet Pea can be grown successfully
both in the open and under glass, and that it does
not require exceptional treatment, a fallacy still
too rampantly prevalent. When will some
readers realise the fact that successful blossoms
can only be obtained if the root action is freely
active and healthy ? The gardener can know no
set time for any particular operation, and more
especially so the Sweet Pea grower. The soil
must be in a fit condition, or the plants will not
thrive. Therefore the man who, because it was
March, and in spite of the rain, worked his soil,
now finds that it is a mass of huge solid lumps,
totally unusable. The precious Peas are shrivelling
away, and success this year is impossible. Many
are the grumbles one has heard during the past
weeks, and all due to the fact enumerated above.
Abuse of Manures. — The\ market is flooded
with " prepared plant foods," and an indiscriminate
use of these will produce untold trouble and loss.
At once let it be stated that Sweet Peas do not
require gorging with stimulants. If a slight dressing
of superphosphate, bone-meal and soot has been
forked into the top soil previous to planting out,
then nothing more is required until the first crop
of flowers has been gathered. If a spell of very
dry weather should set in in June, then watering
with very weak soot-water is beneficial. By the
way, a word of warning here may not be without
profit. Soot-water such as I have often seen used — •
a thick, slimy, black slush, which leaves a coating
upon the surface of the soil — is a positive danger.
Soot should be put into a bag and the whole
immersed in water, which extracts all the nutritive
values, but the water remains only slightly coloured.
This is the condition in which it should be used.
A Suggestion. — The notes on Sweet Peas that
appear in The Garden might occasionally be made
more interesting if readers would forward any notes
on difficulties or observations to the Editor. Many
varieties of Sweet Peas differ in vigour of growth and
colour of flower in different localities — sjme soils
are specially suited for some varieties, while there
are many varieties that require special treatment
when given outdoor culture. These or any other
points could be considered and fully discussed, and
would be a welcome variety from a general article.
Finally, every Sweet Pea lover should join the
National Sweet Pea Society. In spite of what
has been said about it, this society ii flourishing
and doing a great deal of good work. Tne secretary
is Mr. H. T. Tigwell, Greenford, Middlesex, and
the annual subscription is only 5s. S. M. Crow.
240
THE GARDEN.
[May i6, 1914.
SOME
BEAUTIFUL
WORTS.
POPPY-
THE MECONOPSES.
(ConHimed from page 230.)
A S already intimated, tiiese Poppyworts love
/% moisture, or that degree of uniform root
/ \ coolness which is not a bad equivalent.
/ % In some measure, too, they prefer shade,
■^ *■ though, with root moisture assured,
this would only be desirable for securing
greater longevity to the flowers, while in cold
districts with much rainfall, s4iade should be
altogether dispensed with. In these latter, too,
shade would probably militate against the produc-
tion of good pollen, and, in turn, seeds.
Hence, in all the circumstances, a fairly
open position, with root moisture, might
be regarded as best. A fairly deep bed
of soil well enriched by cow-manure
should always be provided, loam, peat
and leaf-soil constituting the chief, with
cow-manure freely added. To those
whose good fortune it is to be able to
harvest good supplies of seeds each
year, the importance of free grouping
should not be overlooked, and it would
be worth a long day's journey to be
able to see a few hundreds of the
nobler kinds in any garden. As yet,
however, such a consummation is more
in the nature of a dream-picture than
anything else, though of subjects so
unique such an ideal is worth striving
after. Moreover, the plants them-
selves are so essentially worthy of
specialisation, and if difficulties and
disappointments bestrew the way, a
greater honour and satisfaction will
be the reward of he who first overcomes
them. It may be, of course, that, like
certain Oncocyclus Irises, these Poppies,
fretting for the conditions to which for
ages they have been accustomed in
their native wilds, refuse to be com-
forted in lowland places. But of this
experience will be the best guide. The
following are the best species :
Meconopsis aeuleata. — A beautiful
speciee from the Western Himalayas,
where it is found at altitudes varying
from 11,000 feet to 15,000 feet. The
leaves forming the rosette are pale
green, deeply and irregularly lobed, and
furnished with long, tawny-coloured
hairs or bristles. In cultivation the
plant is rarely more than 18 inches
high at fiowering-time. Flowers some-
what saucer-shaped and of a purplish
sheen, which contrasts well with the
stamens.
M. cambrica (the Welsh Poppy) is well known
and needs but little recommendation. A lover
of cool, moist places, free in flowering, appearmg
in all sorts of places where perchance a seed or two
may have fallen. It is one of the prettiest of all
plants for naturalising. Though more or less
perennial, it is best raised from seeds. The
plant is dwarf, and produces a profusion of yellow
flowers. The double orange and yellow forms
are pretty variations, and there is room for more.
M. chelidonifolia. — A dwarf-growing perennial
species from the Thibetan frontier. The flowers
are clear yellow and an inch or so in diameter.
The leaves are deeply lobed and approximate
in form to the Celandine (Chelidonium), hence
the name. May also be increased by division.
M. grandis is also of " perennial duration,
happily, as it produces seed but rarely in this
country. The plant comes from the Sikkim
Himalayas, is of rather tall habit, and bears
flowers of a purplish blue colour.
M. heterophylla. — A free-growing, free-flowering
annual species from California, which, producing
seeds in fair abundance, is easily increased by
these means. A somewhat variable kind of a
foot or 18 inches high. The flowers, borne on
slender stems, are red or coppery red, sometimes
orange, and with a dark blotch on the petals.
Quite an effective species when in flower.
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A BEAUTIFUL BLUE
POPPYWORT :
LATIFOLIA.
MECONOPSIS SINUATA
yellow
M. integrifolia. — One of the most remarkable
of the entire genus, and now well known to all
cultivators of choice flowers. The most successful
cultivator of it that I know is Mr. W. A. Milner,
Totley Hall, who achieves considerable success
with it year by year in his Derbyshire garden
700 feet above the sea. Mr. Milner raises the
seedlings in the slight warmth already noted,
and attaches importance to the method. The
plant is foimd at 11,000 feet to 15,000 feet in the
mouutams of China and Thibet, where it grows
in endless quantities. The gri:at saucer-like
flowers are of soft yellow colour, with orange-
coloured anthers. The flowers vary in size,
form, and in the number each plant produces.
The leaves are entire, variable in size, though
always covered more or less with silky hairs. It
is a moisture-loving species, of about two feet
high when fully grown. No member of the genus
is more worthy of specialisation.
M. nepalensis (Nepaul Poppy).— The plant
formerly associated with this name had yellow
flowers, the true plant having somewhat un-
attractive flowers of reddish purple colouring.
Its fine rosettes of deeply lobed, hairy leaves
approximate to those of M. Wallichii, and the
plant is worth growing for its foliage effects alone.
M. paniculata. — This is the yellow-flowered
species formerly known as M. nepalensis, and is
as good among yellow-flowered sorts as M. Wallichii
is among the blues. The rosette of leaves has
all the characteristics of the last named,
save that the leaves are shorter. The
plant is fully 5 feet high, a moderate
seed-bearer, and one of the most reliable
'jf the Himalayan kinds.
M. sinuata latifolia.— This was at
one time confused with M. aeuleata,
but differs from it in its larger, longer
leaves and distinctly sinuate margins.
In general habit it has much in common
with the other species named, and
attains the same height. The flowers
are blue. It is a fairly reliable seed-
bearer.
M. racemosa. — The flowers, which
are variable in colour, are neither at-
tractive nor large, those I have seen
being of a nondescript purplish or
lilac tone and less than 2 inches across.
The plant is about two feet high, has
erect, unbranched stems, the flowers
largely axillary. The leaves are entire.
M. Wallichii. — ^To this fine Himalayan
species must be given pride of place,
whether viewed in the heyday of a
glorious flowering or seen awaiting that
time, when the great rosettes of leaves
are a picture in themselves. If this queen
of the Indian Poppies never produced a
flower, it would still find those who would
grow it for leaf beauty alone. Well-
developed rosettes of leaves may be 2 feet
in diameter, the soft, tawny-coloured
hairs appearing above the grey-green of
the groundwork. Seen after a shower
with the raindrops still upon them the
effect is very beautiful. In its highest
perfection the plant may attain 6 feet to
8 feet, and with its noble pyramid of
flowers is imposuig indeed. The flowers
vary from pale blue to purplish
shades, the former the more desirable
because of the glistening sheen-
like effects with which they are
hence seeds should be saved from these
alone. With artificial pollination seeds of good
quality arc fairly abundant and vegetate freely.
M. Delavayl and M. Rudis arc recently
introduced kinds not yet generally known, and
there is also the quaint and brilliant-flowered
M. punicea, one of Mr. Wilson's finds, which, if
not now lost to cultivation, is at least extremely
rare. Thus we have presented to us in a solitary
genus species possessing quaintness, interest, or
rare beauty sufficient, it would appear, to satisfy
all tastes, whUe the innate fickleness or fastidious-
ness of some should provide for the problem-
solver food for thought and material for experiment
for many days. E. H. Jenkins.
endowed ;
May i6, 1914.
THE GARDEN.
241
SEASONABLE NOTES ON
CARNATIONS.
THE supporting of Carnations emerges
as an important cultural item, which
can never be delayed without serious
after-results. There are several in-
genious supports which obviate atten-
tion to tying ; but even where these
are adopted it is necessary to use the old-fashioned
wooden or Bamboo stick to protect the plants
while young, and for Malmaisons and Perpetuals
other supports than these are of dubious utility.
The value of a stick consists in its keeping the
stem perfectly straight, a condition that was of
little importance thirty years ago, but which is
all-important at this date, when the blooms are
valued according to the length of the stems. Young
Perpetuals, moreover, when growing,
as they ought to grow, with great
vigour, produce shoots which will
snap with the least touch, and these
should on that account be staked
when still young and slung to the
stakes. Border varieties will very
soon need attention, too, and unless
the plants had short sticl^s applied to
each when planted, which is some-
times imperative when they are
extra strong, some will be sure to
have grown off the upright. Invari-
ably the young assistant places the
stake on the wrong side of such
plants, that is, on that away from
the side to which the plant leans,
whereas it ought to be inserted in a
position to press the plant upright
without having to drag it up with a
tie. All Carnations should be staked
in the same manner when off the
upright. Bamboo tips are very
generally used for supports, but I in-
cline to use thicker stakes, which can
each be split into four. These last
longer, and are considerably cheaper
than the tips.
Shading. — The great variety of
shades in the colouring of the old
pink Malmaison, or Princess of Wales
as it is often called, is sometimes
and to some extent due to the
quality of the soil ; btit the colour
can always be deepened artificiallj
by applying a proper shading that
will at once subdue the light in
the daytime and keep the temperature cool.
The best shading is undoubtedly one of the
wooden or Bamboo blinds, and the worst
is whiting. The whiting obscures the glass,
and so far provides a shade, but it has a very
slight effect on sun-heat. Perpetuals also are
the finer for being shaded. Beacon bums
very badly, and the strength and delicacy
of all colours is affected injuriously by the
sun's rays, and perhaps also from too high
a temperature, which, however well ventilated
a structure may be, becomes too hot for
Carnations.
Outdoor Beds. — Plants to occupy positions
in beds and borders out of doors may now be
drawn from among those which are to remain
to produce flowers imder glass. Stand them
meanwhile in a sheltered position where the sun
does not reach them for the greater part of the
day, and be attentive to watering lest the young
roots be dried up, the result of which will be a
large number of yellow leaves later, an eyesore
all the season. Of all the varieties I have tried,
none is more fioriferous than Mrs. F. Burnett,
and those to reject are such as are of a weak
habit, like Lady Alington, or not productive,
like R. F. Felton. The plants may very shortly
be planted out, setting them so that a shallow
depression is left in which to pour water until
the roots have got a grip of the soil, which at
planting should be very firmly compressed. The
quantity of flowers produced under attentive
culture is quite astonishing, and more than repays
the extra labour that they exact to establish
them. These plants are, moreover, valuable
producers of a superior type of cuttings for autumn
propagation. Some growers lift the plants and
derive cut flowers from them during the early
TWO BEAUTIFUL BROOMS.
IK the two Brooms illustrated, Cytisus prascox
and C. albus (the white Spanish Broom),
we possess two excellent spring-flowering
shrubs. They are suitable for planting in
varied positions in the flower garden,
pleasure grounds and woodland. Whether
in groups of several plants in the borders, masses
on sloping banks, a bed or two on the lawn, or
dotted about singly or several in a group in the
open woodland, these Brooms are very effective.
The soil for Cytisuses presents no difficulty ; in
fact, they fiower more freely in soils which are
light and sandy than in richly manured loams.
C. albus is sometimes seen as much as lo feet in
height ; more often 5 feet to 6 feet. In addition
to the pure white variety, there is a form named
incarnatus, with prettily tinted rosy red blossoms.
CYTISUS PRiECOX AND C. ALBUS, TWO MAY-FLOWERING BROOMS.
part of the winter, and find them also valuable
decorative plants.
Removing Shoots. — I do not think it is usual
to disburden Carnation plants of extra growths,
a point noted in an earlier contribution. It
does not at this time of year matter so much in
the case of Perpetuals, but those who grow a
collection of borders or shows and Picotees in
pots will find the plants ever so much stronger
if the " grass " is reduced, where it is more, to
six young shoots on each plant. If the more
advanced of these are left, the majority will flower
as well as the main stem ; but it will be somewhat
late before a second crop of shoots for layering
can be had. It is all a question of what one
wants. If lots of bloom, leave the largest ; if
very strong layers, remove these and let the later
growths remain to gain strength.
Tyninghame. R. P. Brotherston.
The white Spanish Broom is readily raised from
seeds. C. prjecox is a natural hybrid, the supposed
parents being C. purgans and C. albus. During
the second half of April and extending into May
the bushes are laden with cream-coloured blossoms.
It has one little fault — the odour of the flowers is
not at all pleasant. With age Brooms are inclined
to become leggy, and for this reason they should
be discarded and replaced with young plants.
Brooms are not easy shrubs to transplant
successfully, except in a small state, and for this
reason it is worth growing the plants in pots for
a couple of years till large enough to place in their
permanent positions. To obtain bushy plants,
stop and shorten the young shoots freely in early
life, as it is useless, when once the plants become
leggy, to cut them down. As a third companion
plant to the two named, grow C. andreanus, with
rich yellow and reddish brown blossoms. A. O.
242
THE GARDEN.
[May i6, 1914.
TWO BEAUTIFUL FLOWER-
ING TREES.
A T this season our gardens and woodlands
/% are rendered beautiful by a great
/ % many flowering shrubs and trees, but
/ % it would be difficult to imagine any
*■ *■ that give greater pleasure to their
owners tiian the two illustrated.
The Double-flowered Cherry (Prunus Avium).
The various kinds of double-flowered Cherries
are easy to grow, and of a free-blooming nature,
each year seeing the branches wreathed in blossom
from end to end. There are a do/en or more
double-flowered kinds, varieties of
native and exotic species, and each
has its special attractions. It is.
however, doubtful whether any
other kind is such a general
favourite as the one under notice,
a variety of the wild Cherry or
Gean of our woods, and a relative
of many of the cultivated varieties
of fruiting Cherries of our gardens.
Of vigorous growth, it attains
dimensions equal to those of an
ordinary Cherry tree, and average-
sized trees maybe between 35 feet
and 40 feet high at maturity.
From the time the trees are but
a few feet high, or within a couple
of years of grafting, they blossom
freely, and continue to do so until
old age deprives them of the
necessary' vitality. As in the
case of fruiting Cherries, the pure
white flowers appear from buds
on the previous year's wood,
and from short, spur-like growths
. on older parts of the trees. From
three to four flowers, each
I J inches to ij inches across,
terminating a stalk 2 inches long,
are borne in a cluster, three or
four clusters often appearing
together^ An idea of the wealth
of blossom produced by trees
fifteen years to twenty years old
may be gathered from the accom-
panying illustration. Like other
members of the Prunus family,
this variety thrives most satis-
factorily in good, well-drained,
loamy soil, and in preparing a
position for a specimen it is
worth while going to a little
trouble to ensure these conditions.
A station 10 feet across will not be
too large to trench from ij feet to
2 feet deep, and prepare with good soil, for the extra
trouble and expense involved will be amply repaid
by the additional vigour and beauty of the tree.
It is perfectly hardy, and there are few parts of
the country where it may not be planted, pro-
viding it can have shelter from violent winds
while in blossom ; for the purity of the flowers
is endangered by exposure to cutting winds. One
point which is worthy of consideration in the
choice of a position for this tree is the selection of
a site where a background of coniferous or other
evergreen trees is available ; for the white flowers
are seen to far greater advantage by the aid of
such a background than when exposed to the sky-
line. In addition to being such a useful outdoor
tree, young examples are valuable for forcing,
and in February and March create a pretty effect
in conservatory or greenhouse. An item in the
cultivation of this tree which should not be over-
looked is its dislike to severe pruning, for the
careless removal of large branches is almost
invariably followed by gumming, which may end
in the death of the tree. When pruning is neces-
sary, therefore, remove the branches carefully
close to the trunk, pare the wounds round with
a sharp knife, and provide a coating of coal-tar.
The Japanese Crab (Pyrus floribunda). —
Although often referred to as a species nati\-e of
Japan, this showy tree is considered by many
authorities to be of hybrid origin, the Japanese
as much in diameter, shapely specimens, well
furnished with branches from base to summit,
and about the end of April every branch is wTeathed
with blossom to such an extent that the woody
parts of the trees are invisible. The flowers are
a delicate pink, the colour being deeper and richer
in the bud and when semi-expanded than in the
fully open state. Growing with the type are several
examples of the variety atrosanguinea, which is
easily distinguished by its richer and deeper-
coloured flowers. Where one specimen only is
desired, it is advisable to select the variety
in preference to the type ; but where both
can be grown, one helps to show off the
other. Although mature specimens may be
met with as large bushes 12 feet
to 15 feet high and 20 feet
to 30 feet across, it sometimes
grows into a small tree 20 feet
to 35 feet or more high, with a
very wide head, its size being
determined largely by the con-
ditions under which it is growing.
?or preference, it should be
given a sunny position, shel-
tered from north and east ; ndt
that it is tender, but that cold
winds from those quarters may
injure the flowers. Provide deep,
loamy soil, and see that the
ground is well worked before the
tree is • planted. It gives little
trouble ; an occasional thinning
may be necessary, but regular
pruning is not desirable. A mericaii
blight may attack it, and if such a
thing happens, spray with a
paraffin wash in summer and a
caustic wash in winter. The fruits
are not borne freely, and they have
no pretensions to beauty. D.
.\ DOUBLE-FLOWERED CHERRY, PRUNUS AVIUM. THIS
EFFECTIVE SPRING-FLOWERING TREE.
P. Toringo and the Asiatic P. baccata being
suggested as its parents. In support of this theory
there is the fact that it has not been found in a
genuinely wild state, while the distinctly lobed
leaves of the Japanese species may sometimes be
noted among those of normal shape on branches
of P. floribunda. Whatever its origin, it is an
exceedingly ornamental tree, and was originally
introduced to this country from Japanese gardens.
No more worthy example of its value for decora-
tive gardening can be found than the large group
of a score or more well-grown examples which
occupy a mound, interspersed with dark-leaved
conifers, near the Water Lily House at Kew. Some
of these trees are 15 feet or more high and twice
ROSE MRS. ARTHUR
MUNT.
^Hybrid Tea.)
I HAVE frequently contended
that this lovely Rose was badly
treated when it was passed over
by the judges who award the
gold medals. No one who has
seen it growing among the
numerous pale-coloured varieties
can resist its peerless beauty,
and last year with me it
was remarkably good. I can
IS .\ \'ERY recommend it as a really good
all-round variety. The colour
is deep cream, which becomes
a sort of ivory cream with a peach tint as the
blooms develop. The flowers are large, full and
perfectly formed, with a high-pointed centre, and I
can well understand Messrs. A. Dickson and .Sons
saying it is one of the very best of their pro-
ductions. We are having such a large number of
light-coloured novelties that it becomes quite
embarrassing to know how to use them all, and
yet there is such loveliness and distinctness in
m.iny of them that one cannot discard any. It
will soon, however, become necessary for some
authority to classify the various colours,
especially the creams, buSs and pinks, and to
let amateiu-s know which are really the best of
each section. Danfcroft.
May i6, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
243
ROSE-GROWING IN TOWN
GARDENS.
Preparing for Exhibition. — Those who have
tasted the joys of successfully exhibiting their
Roses usually become enthusiasts for all time,
and hence the number of competitors at shows
increases from year to year, and Rose societies
get more numerous. To ensure success at the
leading exhibitions is the highest flight of the
■cultivator's art ; but almost every town in the
kingdom now boasts a horticultural society.
Usually these have many classes to suit the smaller
Rose-grower, and anyone who is sufficiently
enthusiastic and painstaking may become a prize-
winner. There is much benefit to be derived from
.exhibiting, apart from mere " pot-hunting." It
instils enthusiasm as nothing else can ; it enforces
hard pruning — the most difficult lesson for the
amateur to master — and it also
■stimulates the imagination and
leads to the idealisation of the
perfect bloom. IVIoreover, the
ardent rosarian is in need of
■" letting off steam " from time to
time. He must have others to
see and admire his peerless blos-
soms, and to talk about them.
JVIembership of a society gives him
this opportunity, whereas if he
meets no one of like tastes, and
is compelled to talk "Roses" to
the world at large, he is apt
to become as great a nuisance
as the too-intense golfer. A lack
■of confidence often causes the
grower to postpone showing until
a more favourable season, but this
is neither good policy nor good
•sportsmanship. The putting up of
a box of Roses, even if unsuc-
■cessful, teaches one much of the
art of exhibiting that it is im-
possible to convey by chapter and
verse, and it adds a fresh pleasure
to life.
In Feeding the Roses an early
start should be made, and cow-
manure water is the safest thing
to commence with. This should be
given to the plants from the first
week in May, using it very well
■diluted, and applying it about
once a week. Towards the end
of the month an artificial manure may
given alternately with it. Mix together super-
phosphate of lime and nitrate of potash in
proportions of three to one, dissolving roz. of
the mixture in each gallon of water. Let this
be one week's diet, and the next may consist
of a solution of sulphate of ammonia (half an
■ounce to the gallon of water). If these three
stimulants are given in turn (of course, only to
healthy and established plants), the Roses will
have little excuse for failure. As the show-
time approaches, a little sulphate of ammonia
may be added to the contents of the manure
tub, but it should be at a rate not exceed-
ing loz. to four gallons when diluted. Do
not bother about soot-water ; it is messy
and gives unnecessary trouble. Sulphate of
ammonia contains exactly the same manurial
properties, is infinitely cleaner and easier to
handle, and the supply can be better regulated ;
but care must always be taken to use it only in a
very weak solution, the proportions never being
greater than those given. The plants will have
been pruned back hard, and this will increase
the tendency of many kinds to throw several
flowers from each stem. The shoots must, of
course, be disbudded, but it is well to allow two
buds to remain for a little time, until one can
judge to some extent when the blooms will develop,
and to guard against mishaps ; but the grower
must make up his mind as soon as possible which
of these to discard. All plants should be carefully
examined to see whether the growths have any
tendency to touch one another, and if so,
they must be staked and tied apart, so that
the foliage may not be damaged by thorns.
Every plant must be looked over daily for
caterpillars, which frequently ruin the most
promising buds before their presence is suspected.
The shading, tying, arrangement and dressing
multiflora varieties which are really perpetual
flowering from the time they open their first
flowers in the middle of June right on into November,
according to the state of the weather, of course.
I have grown the varieties named below, and am
much pleased with their behaviour. Quite the
best way to grow this type of Rose would be as
a hedge, allowing them to ramble away at will,
occasionally removing weak growths to make
room for the stout, sucker-like shoots that are
being constantly pushed up from the main
branches. The perfume in all of the varieties is
most pleasing.
Trier produces large, pyramidal panicles of
white flowers tinged with pink on opening, and with
decided yellow anthers
Kommerzienrat W. Rautenstrauch (Lambert,
1910) is a strong-growing sort with very few thorns
and good foliage. Its panicles of salmon red,
with light yellow centre and a white shading on
THE JAPANESE CRAB APPLE, PYRUS FLORIBUNDA.
OPEN IN
be
of the blooms will be dealt with in the next
article. P- L. Goddard.
PERPETUAL-FLOWERING
CLIMBING ROSES*
Although we often hear of perpetual-flowering
climbing Roses, I find them most difficult to locate.
An odd bloom or two will at times open on certain
plants through some check to growth, but such
instances cannot class the varieties as perpetual
flowering. I need hardly say I am not alluding
to the many forms of Hybrid Tea Roses that really
do go on flowering long into the autumn, like Lady
Pirrie, for example ; but I mean real climbing
varieties like American Pillar or Excelsa, or even
Felicite Perpetue.
By the introduction of Trier in r904 Herr Lambert
gave us the foundation of a perpetual race of
THIS HAS CHARMING PINK FLOWERS THAT
MAY.
the outside of the petals, are produced over a long
period. This variety is exquisitely perfumed.
Thermidor grows vigorously, throwing up strong
flower-stems with huge panicles of extra large
blooms, pale yellow, changing to white with age.
Hugo Maweroff produces its warm carmine,
small double flowers of regular form in elegant
trusses.
Fairy (W. Paul) is, unfortunately, of weak
growth, therefore requiring much time to fill a
given space, although this may be due to its great
freedom in flowering. The suigle flowers are
snow white, with yellow anthers.
Francois Juranville, although belonging to
the wichuraiana section, is the most perpetual
flowering of any variety in that section, but not
so much so as the multiflora type. It is so useful
for the continuance of its interestingly coloured
flowers— bright salmon pink, base of petals orange
yellow — that it deserves extended culture. E. M.
"THE GARDEN"
COMPETITION FOR PLANNING AND PLANTING
THE LITTLE GARDEN.
FOR every great garden planned on
spacious lines and expensively planted,
there are a thousand little gardens
which deserve no less thought and
invention if they are to give their
owners all the pleasure to be won
from the happiest of recreations — gardening.
Not so many years ago the little garden, whether
in town or suburb, or even deep in the country,
was a thoughtless affair ; a few beds of Geraniums
and Roses, a border of annuals and perennials
in small and dull variety, and perhaps a shrubbery,
all laid out without reference to the house or to
each other. Since then, the cultivation of
flowers and shrubs, fruit and vegetables has
developed at a great speed. And it has done
this side by side with a growing attention to the
sister art of garden design, which includes not
only the laying out of ground on simple and
artistic lines, but also the use of flowers m
harmonious groupings.
All this has been well understood and practised
in the greater gardens, where an increasing reliance
is set on those more formal qualities which made
the beauty of the Old English garden. It remains
to show that the little garden is no less capable
of beautiful treatment. The miniature can be
as great a work of art as the full-length portrait.
VALUABLE PRIZES FOR BEST
DESIGNS.
The Proprietors of The Garden, anxious as
they are to stimulate the best interests of gardening
in all its aspects, and to encourage correctness of
design and planting in all sorts of gardens, have
organised the competition of which particulars
are now given.
Four Typical Sites have been chosen, and their
plans are now reproduced on a small scale.
No. 1 shows a level site with a narrow frontage
of 40 feet and a total depth of 120 feet. This is
an average small suburban plot, and its lay-out
and planting has an importance not ordinarily
recognised.
No. 2 shows the type of garden which results
when an enthusiastic gardener, living next door
to a man who cares for none of these things, buys
or rents part of his neighbour's garden. The L-
shaped plot thus secured gives opportunity for
variation in design which is impossible on a narrow
rectangular plot. The site is level.
No. 3 shows a site such as is often found in the
more distant suburbs of large towns, and even in
the heart of the country, where there is a wide
frontage and much less depth in proportion. This
shape creates a new set of problems for the
designer. .The site slopes 3 feet downwards from
east to west.
No. 4 shows a corner site formed by two con-
verging roads, and its irregularity gives oppor-
tunity for unusual treatment. This site has a slope
of 5 feet downwards from north to south.
RULES OF COMPETITION.
A Tennis Lawn is not to be attempted on
Nos. I and 2 ; it may be, but need not be provided
on No. 3 ; it must be included on No. 4.
Paving for paths, &c., should be shown where
it is proposed to use it, but its cost should be
remembered.
Frames or Greenhouse. — Place for two frames
in No. I site, four in No. 2 ; and for unhealed
greenhouses in Nos. 3 and 4 may be, but need not
be provided. If they are provided, due thought
must be given to their being suitably screened
from view from the house.
Architectural Features. — A sunk plat, a
garden-house, a small pool, a pergola, treillage
screens, seats, sundials, statues, &c., are per-
missible, but should be moderately used. Com-
petitors should assume that the garden-owners have
the following sums to spend, to cover cost of such
things as frames or greenhouse and architectural
features, also of hedges or trees which are to form
salient features of the garden design, but exclusive
of planting flowers, sowing lawn, &c. : For No. i,
£20 ; for No. 2, £40 ; for No. 3, £60 ; for No. 4, £100.
■ Treatment of Garden. — Competitors will use
their discretion as to what proportions of the sites
shall be utilised for flowers, fruit, vegetables, &c.,
but should bear in mind the average garden-lover
rather than the specialist in one sort of cultivation.
Conditions of Entry. — The competition is open
to anyone who cuts out the form of application on
page IV. and posts it with four penny stamps to
the Editor of The Garden. (The envelope must be
marked " Garden Competition.") This charge is to
cover the actual cost of printing and posting two
sheets giving the outline plans of the four sites.
On these sheets the designs are to be drawn.
Competitors may submit designs for all or only
one of the four types. They will also be required
to prepare (on a blank sheet, which will also be
supplied) two planting plans, one for a bed or
group of beds, and one for a border. It is left to
the competitors' discretion whether they provide
Roses, annuals or perennials. Bedding-out plants
are discouraged but not barred. These plans are
to be prepared in the way that Miss Jekyll
has popularised. An example, which shows the
method of drawing and size of lettering, is printed
on one of the site sheets for the guidance of com-
petitors. On the third blank sheet a bird's-eye view
or perspective view of the garden may also be drawn
if competitor desires. All notes and descriptions
are to be printed on the drawings in bold and simple
lettering, so that it can be read when reduced to
a small scale. All drawing is to be done in black
ink. The use of pencil or colour will disqualify,
but perspectives may be wash drawings. The
site sheets will be sent out to competitors rolled
in a cardboard tube, in which they are to be re-
turned. Drawings cannot be considered if they
are returned folded. In order that anonymity
may be preserved, all competitors will receive
with the site sheets a form on which they will
give their name and address, and an envelope
in which the form is to be enclosed. The drawings
and sealed envelopes will be numbered at The
Garden Office on receipt, and the envelopes
will not be opened until after the awards have
been made. Where one competitor is especially
interested in planning and another in planting,
they may combine to send in a joint scheme.
Enquiries as to the Conditions. — Any competitor
who docs not fully understand the conditions
of the competition should write an enquiry to
the Editor of The Garden on or before June 6.
AH such enquiries will be answered in the issue of
The Garden of June 20, 1914.
Date of Sending In. — All drawings are to be
addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavis-
tock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C,
marked " Garden Competition," and to be
delivered on or before September i, 1914.
Ownership and Return of Drawings. — The
Proprietors of The Garden reserve the right to
publish any drawings submitted in any form they
may wish. The winning designs and any others
of special interest will be reproduced with the
names and addresses of their authors in a special
issue of The Garden, which will be published as
soon^ as possible after the judges have made their
awards. All designs that secure prizes will
become the sole property of the Proprietors of
The Garden, and copyright of the same will be
strictly reserved. All drawings that do not
receive prizes will be returned if sufficient
stamps are enclosed in the envelope containing
competitor's name. Great care will be taken of
all drawings submitted, but the Proprietors of
The Garden will not be responsible for the loss
of or damage to any drawing, howsoever arising.
Prizes Offered by " The Garden."— A first
prize of 5 guineas, a second prize of 2 guineas and
a third prize of i guinea will be given to the three
best designs sent in for each of the four types, <.<■.,
there will be twelve money prizes in all, totalling
£33 I2S. In addition, there will be twenty consola-
tion prizes, each consisting of books to the value
of los. 6d., to be chosen by prize-winners from
the Country Life Library of Gardening.
Judges. — ^The following gentlemen have kindly
consented to examine the designs sent in and to
make the awards : Mr. George Diliistone, Mr. F. W.
Harvey (Editor of The Garden), Mr. P. Morley
Horder, F.R.I. B. A., Mr. Lawrence Weaver,
Hon. A.R.I.B.A. (Architectural Editor of Country
Life), and Mr. S. T. Wright (Superintendent of the
Royal Horticultural Society's Gardens at Wisley).
The awards oj the judges will be final and
binding, and will not be subject to any appeal. The
Editor of The Garden will not publish any corre-
spondence relating to the awards unless it appears,
in his sole discretion, to be of public interest.
GROUND PLAN OF SITE 2.
THESE FOUR GROUND
PLANS HAVE BEEN
CHOSEN AS TYPICAL
SITES FOR SMALL
GARDENS.
-^ ■ I" , .f Tf,
GROUND PLAN OF SITE 3.
I
I
246
THE GARDEN.
[May i6, 1914.
DAFFODIL NOTES.
from tip to tip. It has a little trumpet ij inches
long and il inches wide at the top, of a pleasing
shade of yellow. Its petals are as smooth as a
THE MIDLAND DAFFODIL SOCIETY'S ^^.gU.ironed shirt. The wider ones are ij inches
SHOW, 1914. across and i; inches long. I am told that this
A SHOW has been held at Birmingham ' type is one which is hard to breed, but all this
without Robert Sydenham. This , is forgotten as we go away, inwardly resolving
IS the supreme fact to chronicle with to try if we can some day to be as fortunate
i regard to the 1914 exhibition. It is ' as Engleheart was when he gave the world this
^ this which differentiates it from all ^ magnificent beauty.
others, for necessarily to a very large j I know one young seedling-raiser who must
.extent the flowers were the same, and necessarily, have felt very pleased with himself at Birmingham
too, the general staging arrangements featured (and his wife, too, for she was by his side, as she
those of previous years; but no large-crowned, always is, helping with the Daffodils). I refer
^oft, fawn-coloured hat bobbing in and out among ' to Dr. Lower of Presteign. Had not his 234
the crowd — here, there, every-
where ! This was net there, and
all that that hat stood upon. From
the first Daffodil show organised
by the late Professor Hillhouse in
1893 down to that of rgis that
hat had never been absent. No
wonder, then, that we had come to
look upon it as a something with-
out which a show could not be.
We were right and we were wrong.
We have had a show, as we will
have to have all our others, with-
out it, and yet neither this nor
those future ones which we hope
for would, humanly speaking, ha\'e
been possible without the life which
he gave to the society and the
painstaking toil and watchfulness
-with which he nourished its tender
years. Lest we forget, '■ Robert
Sydenham, Founder," is now an
integral part of our official title.
It is our formal tribute to his
memory.
A remarkable event happened on
the morning of the second day —
our " silent salesman " spoke.
Standing by me in front of the
two classes of three distinct varie-
ties of seedling Daffodils that have
Tieen raised by the exhibitor —
Class 30 for old hands and Class 31
for novices — he pointed to the
seventeen little lots that were
staged in competition and said,
" This is what I like to see." As
these words fell from his lips I
thought within myself, " And no
one has done more than you to
bring it about."
No parcel post firm of traders
ever issued a catalogue of more
alluring fascination than the
splendid exhibits of Mr. Ernest
Crosfield, The large, striking and refined blooms ■ •!
which they are always c- mio-cd ; re a tr-^mend >us
ftim'nius to those who are just beginning to taste
the sweets of home-made flowers. What an
inspiration to stand before his tricolour-eyed
Poet Ring Dove and observe the wonderful texture
and substance of its beautiful round perianth,
and note the green and yellow and red of its
well-proportioned eye ! How the large, cool-
looking Barrii Anchorite fascinates us with its
long segmented marble white perianth and its
flat, large, lemon eye ! What wonders of culti-
vation did we not see revealed in that peerless
■" nonsuch " Aladdin in the single bloom class
ior white-perianthed incomparables. It is 4i inches
THE POET NARCISSUS RING DO\'E,
CROSFIELD.
RAISED BY MR
the largest and deepest red ci p in all the exhi-
bition ? The ivory-coloured perianth was slightly
reflexed, and measured 3i inches in diameter.
Placed on this and taking a round inch of its
space was the deep orange red corona bordered
with a narrow ribbon of the deepest Poeticus red.
" A topping flower," said one, " to give colour
to a big thing like Bernardino " ; but, alas !
the anthers are at present sterile and contain
no pollen. I am given to understand that this
may not always be the case, and that the keen
doctor may live in hope. A beautiful double
named Mary Copeland gives us the present high-
water mark in this class. Not even Llinos, which
I described last week as being the feature of the
London Show, has such a good back or such well-
formed and symmetrical guard petals as this.
There are two rows of them, broad and well pro-
portioned, of a very pale primrose shade, next
door to white. The interior is filled with the
split-up corona, each little bit being of a deep
yellow, broadiy edged with orange red. It is a
flower of no mean size, measuring, if my memory
serves me, 4 inches across. It is a curious coinci-
dence that two doubles of quite a new build, and
each one very similar to the other, should have
suddenly appeared in two consecutive weeks at
the two great shows of the year.
.Although I greatly admire the beautiful white
-Ajax from Holland, Mrs. E. H. Krelage, with its
w^hite, well-formed perianth and
its all but pure white trumpet —
size : 4^ inches x (if inches x
I J inches) X (if inches x if in'^hes) ;
although I liked the shape and
colour of Mr. We'chman's rich
golden yellow trumpet The Com-
monwealth— 4 nc* es X (ij inches
: I J inches) x (i J inches x i| inches)
\-ery much indeed ; although I was
charmed with the refinement of
the pale Barrii Whisper (3^ inches
.. I J inches), with its pale citron
cup and greenish eye ; although
the green in the Poet Raeburn's
eye was so pronounced as to give
the flower its great distinguishing
characteristic ; although I could
say much of Sentry (a red-eyed
Frank Miles), of Wilson's flat-eyed
672, of Charles Surface, of the
clear-cut bicolor .\jax Mystery, of
Madrigal (the pure -bred Poet that
looks like a Barrii), of .\llan-a-Dale
(the wire-eyed Poet from Rye), of
the recurvus-like Sonata, of the
many beauties on the gold medal
stand of Messrs. Barr and Sons,
I must pass them by with this
cursory notice in order to write
more fully of what was to me the
cynosure of the whole show, if for
the moment I exclude from my
pur\-iew the exceptional exhibit of
Mr. Engleheart. I think it is
-Milton who writes of the
" cynosure of neighbouring eyes."
That was what Melanie was at
Birmingham. A lady quite un-
known by name or sight to me
stood before it as I was making
some notes, and touched my arm
as if she had to have some
outlet for her feelings, and said,
" It is worth living to produce
a flower like that." The whole flower is a dead
white, only relieved by the green eye of the cup.
The three outer petals are broad and flat, while
the three inner ones had slightly recurved edges.
The bloom as a whole may be described as circular
and not very large, being only 2f inches in diameter.
It is a great achievement to have produced such
a bloom, and I heartily congratulate Mr. A. M.
Wilson on being the fortunate man to do it.
Melanie, White Knight and a small yellow " peer-
less " raised by Mr. J. C. Williams I put in a clasi
by themselves as super-refined, or possibly a
better name would be superfine.
One charm of Birmingham is the quiet of the
second morning of the show, when the keen ones
E.
May i6, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
247
I
DAFFODILS NOT FLOWER-
ING : CAUSE AND REMEDY.
[/)( Reply to Several Coyrespondents.]
0 many of our readers have this season
been complaining of their flowerless
Daffodils that we think it well to en-
deavour to clear the air in the matter —
in other words, to give examples of
cause and remedy. The bulbs in not a
few instances are those of strong-growing garden
varieties, which good cultivation and a favourable
By " favour-
s
have the whole conservatory practically to them-
selves, and when one can take notes in space and
peace and really look at things. I spent a con-
•siderable portion of the time at my disposa' study-
ing Mr. Engleheart's exhibit. I was attracted by
the many pure white varieties which he had staged.
They were collectively probably tlie best, largest
and most varied collection that has ever been
■shown at one time. My good friend, the raiser,
was kind enough to come and talk to me about
them. I think he agreed with mc in putting a
long-petalled flower marked W — 52 down as the
greate :t novelty. It measured 3I inches in diameter,
and had a shallow cup seven-eighths of an incli
across, which was pure wh te, while the perianth grow»ig season should make all right
was a very pronounced shade of
pale sea green, which appeared
somewhat deeper in tone on
the second day than on the
first. When the two blooms
were held against the pure
white ones, the difference was
very marked. W — 128 (size :
4 inches x ij inches) is a large
bloom, reminding one, in its cup
more especially, of White Lady.
The white segments are long
and rather narrow, making be-
tween them a typical double-
triangled perianth. W — 153
(size : zf inches x seven-eighths
of an inch) was an exact opposite.
It was pure white, too, but
there the resemblance ended. The
petals were small, rounded, and
with that delightful concavity
which we describe as shell-shaped,
and which I can recall in old
days as giving much of its charm
to the pretty Vanessa. The eye
of the cup is a distinct grey-
green, . quite away from such a
shade as we get in Emerald Eye.
There were, too, on Mr. Engle-
heart's stand a whole series oi
a new type of Poet which sud-
denly appeared among his seed-
lings. To the casual onlooker
they appear much the same as
others, say, Raeburn ; but as
the faithful shepherd knows each
sheep and can distinguish them
all, so to the trained eye of the
raiser these are very distinct,
and constitute a new race.
They are round in shape, have
large, protruding anthers, thin,
wiry stems, and have much
green in the eye. He has a
whole series of these, which he
ranged side by side for my inspection. I think
now I could pick them out ; but what about
it in a year? I shall see them no more till then,
for the end of show-time has come. Good-bye,
flowers ! May you be there to be seen, and I to
chronicle your charms in twelve months'
time ! Joseph Jacob.
where intelligent and generous cultivation to
a large extent supplies the deficiency, should
it exist. Another important item is early —
August and September — planting, in order that
root development may follow in season and
in reason. Late planting is a prolific cause
of failure, not of flowering, but of that good
bulb growth which ensures success another
year.
As already stated, the flowers that have been
enjoyed during the past weeks were formed nearly
a year ago, and where good cultivation obtained,
not much has been wrong. The disappomtments
experienced during the same period have been in
some measure due to the exceptionally dry spring
of 1913 ; they have been far
greater in the lighter soils and
where good or generous treat-
ment never entered into the
scheme of cultivation.
Another prolific source of
failure is caused by the amateur
lifting and transplanting his
bulbs in flower or leaf time ; it
is accelerated in those instances —
and they are not infrequent —
where the bulbs are lifted in
clumps and transplanted in a
similar way. One correspondent
complains of the non-flowering
of his Dafiodils " this year
and last year." They have
been planted " four years, the
leaves quite healthy." The only
remedy in such a case is lifting,
dividing and transplanting, with
free room for development subse-
quently. Lift in July ; replant a
month or so later. Trench the
ground deeply, just as the soil
permits.
Manure liberally low
down, i.e., 6 inches below the
bulbs. Do not forget a change
of soil ; nothing is so beneficial.
Do not expect flowers imme-
diately where there has been
none for at least two years ; at
least a year's bulb development
will be needed to achieve this.
THE GARLAND-
FLOWER.
HANDSOME TRUSS OF RHODODENDRON LODERI PiNK DIAMOND
(See page 248.)
WATSONIA ALBA OR ARDERNEL
This was introduced a few years ago by Mr,
Arderne of Cape Town. In height it grows
about four feet, bearing long, branching spikes
of white flowers. When seen growing in a colony
with a groundwork of low-growing plants, a
beautiful effect is the result.
able growing season " is intended that period of
genial weather with frequent or abundant rains
in March and April, when the Daffodil, developing
its leaf growth, is also endeavouring to form a
bulb which will be almost sure to give a perfectly
satisfactory flowering in the year to come. For it
should be known — is, indeed, known — to a very
large number that the germ of the flowering we
have recently enjoyed was really laid, i.e., formed
and existed in embryo, nearly a year ago. Hence
much depends upon a genial springtime, the
absence of cold, parching winds, for so moisture-
loving a plant as the Daffodil.
But many will say : " We are at the mercy
of the weather ! " Exactly, and that is
rock garden.
Daphne Cneorum, otherwise
known as the Garland - Flower,
IS one of the most charming of
dwarf flowering shrubs, and an
excellent plant for a shelf in the
Growing only about six inches high.
It spreads by means of sucker growths into a
wide mass, which, throughout the year, retains
its small, narrow leaves, and during late April
and early May is a mass of pretty pink, fragrant
blossoms. The flowers are borne in terminal
heads ij inches to 2 inches across, almost every
shoot being crowned with flowers at the time named.
Unfortunately, it is not everyone's plant, though
in many places it grows like a weed. It appears
to enjoy moist conditions at the roots, and thrives
either in light loam or a peaty soil. Propagation
is often carried out by dividing the clumps, each
division with a little root forming in time a distinct
plant.
248
THE GARDEN.
[May 1 6, 1914.
SEASONABLE NOTES ON
VEGETABLES.
Cabbage. — The plants raised in boxes from seed
sinvn in March will now be ready for planting
out on heavily manured land in rows i8 inches
apart, the plants 9 inches apart for the small-
growing varieties which heart quickly, cutting out
early every alternate head. When planted, cover
the ground close up to the stem and for 3 inches
wide with finely sifted coal-ashes, as a preventive
of slugs eating the plants. Keep the ground well
stirred among established plants, as this hastens
growth ; and if any batch seems slow of growth,
sprinkle around each plant a
pinch of nitrate of soda.
Carrots in Frames. — The
latest-sown batch will need thin-
ning and careful ventilation,
tilting the lights on the opposite
side to that from which the
wind is blowing ; water well,
but carefidly. Outside, sow small
breadths of horn varieties for
pulling in a young state. The
earlier sowings will need thinning,
stirring the soil between the
rows.
Cauliflowers. — Make sowings fi-^y-
of .Mammoth, Auturrm Giant y'
and Magnum Bonum in frames,
where the plants can be more
safely raised than out of doors
in dry weather. Directly the
plants show through the soil,
remove the lights and give an
occasional dusting of soot and
wood-ashes, which induces stocky
and vigorous growth. If there
is any danger of the plants ',
being too thick, thin them care-
fully at an early stage, thereby
obtaining sturdy seedlings.
Plant out in drills those of
previous sowings. In this way
watering is more beneficial, as
the roots derive the full benefit
from the soaking.
Celery. — The February-sown
plants that have been grown on
in pots or beds in frames should
be put out in trenches for an
early supply. If an extra early
crop is required, plant in frames
or on a spent hotbed, giving
abundance of water. Except for
an early show, this crop is THE NEW
hardly wanted. The trenches
for the first outside crop need
not be made deep, as the variety will be of
the dwarf section.
Peas. — Continue to sow Peas of the Marrowfat
type at fortnightly intervals. Should the soil
be dry, well soak the drills an hour before sowing,
which will hasten germination of the seed. Directly
the plants from any previous sowing appear
above the ground, plac ■ black cotton over the rows
as a preventive of birds. The rows, 4 inches
high, should be earthed up, and have short
stakes placed on each side prior to adding
the taller supports. When the latter are put in,
they should be placed upright. So many give them
an inward slant on both sides, causing the tops
to come so close together that the haulm there
receives no support, but is forced outwards on both
sides, and in case of continued rains falls down
through lack of support. If there is a promise
of drought — as there is in May very often —
mulch both sides of the rows with half-decayed
stable manure as a preventive of the evaporation
of moisture, which is a most certain forerumier
of a mildew attack. The conserving of the mois-
ture in the soil, too, assists freedom of growth.
Early so%vn varieties for show, like Alderman,
Duke of Albany or Quite Content, that are
showing pods sufficiently for a crop, should
have their points removed to conserve the
energy of the plant into the swelling of the
pods. Such plants should be freely supplied with
NEW AND RARE PLANTS.
FIRST-CLASS CERTIFICATES.
Rhododendron Loderi Diamond. — A stain-
less, whitc-fluwcred hybrid of much excellence.
The flowers are produced in loosely formed
clusters.
Rhododendron Loderi Pink Diamond. K
counterpart of the above, with delicately shaded,
pink - coloured flowers. These are obviously
hybrids of the Aucklandii set, and have the
same finely fashioned open, bell-shaped blos-
soms, which are about five inches across. No
praise is too great for them. Exhibited by
Sir Edmund Loder, Bt., Horsham.
AWARDS OF MERIT.
Rhododendron Gill's Goliath.
A glorious rose pink flowered
sort, with splendid heads of
open, bell-shaped flowers. The
richer colour is seen in the
upper part of the flower ; lower
down the tube it is of lighter
hue, veined pink on a whitish
ground. Shown by Messrs. R.
Gill and Son, Falmouth,
Iris Isolda (Regelio-Cyclus).—
This delightful flower in bronze
and gold approximates to the
lovely, and until now unique,
Charon. It is, however, of
: darker bronze, and possibly also
larger-flowered. A gem of the
first water.
Iris Leucothsea (Regelio -
Cyclus). — A handsome form
having violet blue standards,
the bhiish falls reticulated with
grey and blotched with brownish
crimson. It is very fine. These
were shown by M. C. G. van
Tubergen, Holland.
Syringa reHexa.— This distinct
species is marked by unusually
large leaves and racemes of lilac-
coloured flowers, horizontally dis-
posed. From the Hon, Vicary
V* Gibbs, Elstree.
Auricula Majestic. — A very
handsome self red, with yellow
paste or centre. The pip is of
large size ; the truss finely pro-
portioned. From Messrs. J. Veitch
and Sons, also from Messrs. Phillips
and Taylor, Bracknell.
REGELIO-CYCLUS IRIS LEUCOTH.EA. THIS HAS VIOLET
BLUE SHADED BROWN FLOWERS.
water, and be lightly syringed in the afternoon
of a hot day.
Tomatoes for Outdoors should now be planted
against walls and fences. A southern aspect is
the best site, although they succeed admirably
on an east wall. The plants should be not less
than 1 foot high when put out, and if they have
been growing in 6-inch pots in a cold frame they
will be all the better, as they will grow away at
once and set fruit early, which much facilitates
ripening in September. The soil should not be
too rich, as the plants can be fed with liquid
stimulants later on when the fruit is set and
making the first swelling.
Swanmore. E. Molyneux.
NEW FRUIT.
Apple Sandling Duchess. — A
very late cooking variety of excellent quality.
Mr. S. T. Wright tested the fruits at Wisley,
and reported that the cooking quality was
equal to the favourite variety Wellington.
The fruits are rich red and of moderate size. An
award of merit was granted subject to an
ofiicial inspection of the tree in the autumn.
Shown by Mr. W. Crump, V.M.H. We heard
many complaints about the fruits being removed
before Fellows could see them.
The foregoing awards were made at the
fortnightly meeting of the Royal Horticul-
tural Society on May 5, when the flowers and
fruit named were shown before the respective
committees.
May i6, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
249
GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.
RAISING SINGLE WALLFLOWERS FROM SEEDS.
AMONG spring-dowering plants, tlie Wail-
flower is one of the most useful and
pleasing. In addition to the beautiful
L rich colours of the flowers, they are
^ delightfully fragrant. No frame or
greenhouse is necessary to raise Wall-
flowers from seeds. Sow them on a spare piece of
ground during May and June or in shallow boxes,
which may be stood in a light yet sheltered position
outside. The best method is to sow Wallflower
■seeds in shallow drills i foot apart, as shown in
the illustration. Having raked the surface soil
to a fine tilth, draw out the soil from the drills
to a depth of i inch to i| inches. Sow the seeds
thinly, and fill in the drills. A sprinkling of lime
and soot over the ground will assist in keeping
away slugs and snails from the tiny seedlings.
Some time during July, according to whether
the seeds were sown early or late, the seedlings will
be ready to transplant. As a rule, the positions
where the plants are to blossom are not vacant
till autumn, so recourse must be had to another
DRILLS MADE READY FOR SOWING WALLFLOWER SEED
NOW IS THE TIME TO DO THE WORK.
piece of vacant ground. Tread this firmly, as it
is very desirable to transplant Wallflowers in
autumn with good balls of soil. Set out the young
plants in rows i foot apart, and 9 inches from plant
to plant in the rows.
Wallflowers will grow in most garden soils.
There are many positions for them in beds and
groups, lines or whole borders ; vacant spaces
between shrubs may be filled with Wallflowers ;
while for window-boxes and terrace vases they are
the best of all spring flowers. Wallflower plants,
when in flower, are from 9 inches to i3 inches in
height. Among numerous named sorts which
come quite true from seeds, the following comprise
a useful selection : Cloth of Gold, rich golden
yellow ; Blood Red ; Vulcan, rich dark crimson,
dwarf habit ; Faerie Queen (Primrose Dame),
citron yellow ; Purple Queen (Violet Queen) ;
Eastern Queen, salmon and rosy pink ; Fire King,
orange red ; Ivory Whit« and Yellow Phcenix.
PROPAGATING DOUBLE DAISIES.
As an edging for beds and borders in spring,
double Daisies are among the gayest of low-growing
plants at that season. With their tufted growths
closely covering the ground throughout the year,
the plants form, if need be, a permanent edging,
and then in spring push up in quantity delightful
flowers, vivid deep red, rich rose, pink or pure
white, as the case may be.
There are two methods of increasing Daisies —
by dividing up the clumps after flowering, as
illustrated, and by seeds. Dividing or parting
the clumps is done after flowering, usually in June.
Each rosette of leaves or single growth, if carefully
severed from the parent plant, usually has a few
roots attached, and will quickly make a new
plant. For a bed of young Daisy plants select,
if possible, a piece of ground shaded from the
midday sun. Set them out 6 inches apart and
9 inches between the rows. Here they may
remain till the summer flowers are over in late
autumn, when the plants can be transplanted
with nice balls of soil to beds and borders. Instead
of using Daisy plants as permanent edgings,
numerous growers take up the plants after flowering
and grow them in the reserve garden till the
autumn, thus making room for
Lobelia, Sweet .Alyssum and other
dwarf summer-flowering subjects.
Three popular double Daisies are
Snowball (white), Alice (pink) and
Rob Roy (crimson).
Seeds of double Daisies may
be sown during iVIay and June on
a border outside or in boxes in a
cold frame. In due course, when
large enough, prick out a patch or
two of the seedlings 3 inches apart
on vacant ground, where they will
grow till the autumn. A good
strain of seedling Daisies may be
expected to come very largely
true to colour. As a rule, the
seeds are sold in colours, as double
white, crimson or pink. Named
sorts from seed are Longfellow
(dark rosy pink), Snowball (white)
and Firefly (glowing scarlet, with yellow eentre).
The most notable development in seedling double
Daisies in recent years is the Giant strain. These
plants produce flowers 2 inches or more in dia-
meter, by the side of which the ordinary strains
appear almost as pygmies. Seeds of Giant White
and Giant Pink may be purchased separately, or,
if desired, a packet of Giant Mixed supplies a
variety of shades from pure white to rosy red.
It is worth while selecting a few of the very best
seedlings and propagating them by ch vision.
HOLLYHOCKS FROM SEEDS.
Formerly it was the practice to propagate Holly-
hocks by division, grafting or cuttings, but the
deadly fungus created so much havoc among the
named sorts that the great majority of Holly-
hocks grown in our gardens are now raised from
seeds. These plants, having plenty of vigoiur, are
less susceptible to the fungus. To secure strong
plants for flowering next summer, seeds of single
and double flowered Hollyhocks should be sown
during May or June. Sow either in the open ground
or in a cold frame. In due course prick oft the
seedlings in shallow boxes, as illustrated, and later
seedling hollyhocks should be PRICKED OFF
INTO BOXES when LARGE ENOUGH, AND
TRANSFERRED LATER TO THE OPEN GARDEN.
plant them out in the open border. Seedling
Hollyhocks may be raised in many pleasing shades
of colour, including crimson, red, deep rose, pink,
orange yellow, sulphur, and white. Hollyhocks
vary from 6 feet to 10 feet in height, and flower
from June to September.
ALPINE STRAWBERRIES.
Being both hardy and adaptable, the alpine
Strawberry can be grown in any garden, and will
fruit freely the whole of the summer. Although
birds play havoc with most other small fruits,
they seldom interfere with this particular
variety. Keep down weeds by hoeing when-
ever the necessity occurs, and mulch directly
the blooms appear. If dry weather is en-
countered after the flowers begin to set,
watering should be done until the conditions
alter, otherwise the fruit will be small. A light
dressing of nitiate or some other well-known
fertiliser applied a month after starting to pick
the fruit will do much to encourage continuous
bearing. Keep the weeds well down all the
year round and also keep the runners cut. The
beds will stand for many years so long as the
rooting weeds do not get established. Alpine
Strawberries possess a quite different flavour
to the ordinary Strawberries. They will, too, stand
handling much better. Jam may be made from
them. They are delicious with cream, and
make an appetising stew. One great virtue is
that they are certain croppers, J. T. B.
DOUBLE DAISIES MAY BE PROP.\G-\TED BY DIVI-
SION, AS SHOWN, AFTER THEY HAVE FINISHED
FLOWERING.
250
THE GARDEN.
[May i6, 1914-
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
Melons. — As soon as tlip first batch of Melons
arc cut, the house should be thoroughly cleaned
and preparation made for another plantation,
and as the season advances a greater depth of
soil ought to be provided in order to reduce the
need of frequent watering. Melons may be
planted from now to the beginning of August
in numbers, according to the demand. Until
the fruits are well advanced in each case the
plants may be syringed twice daily, providing a
temperature of 75° is maintained at night.
Cucumbers. — Frequent thinning and stopping
will be necessarv to keep the plants from becoming
crowded. Give' frequent waterings of liquid
manure, and top-dress the bed as often as the roots
appear through the surface of the soil. Rich loam
and decayed manure will answer the purpose well.
Plants Under Glass.
Richardias or Arum Lilies which have finished
flowering may be removed to the open air and
moisture gradually reduced, in order to prepare
the roots for potting about the end of July. Some
growers plant them out ; but where early flowers
are desired, the best way is to grow the plants
in pots, potting them up about the end of July
or August and protecting them from heavy rain
until the roots have made good progress.
Chrysanthemums. — Plants intended to produce
large flowers should now be ready for their final
potting. The compost may consist of good,
rich loam, leaf-soil and decayed horse-manure.
Pot firmly and leave some space for top-dressing
later in the season. Fine sifted lime rubble
should be mixed with the soil to keep it in a porous
condition. Cuttings may now be inserted in small
pots, in order to producestocky plants for furnishing
in November and December.
Verbena Miss Willmott. — This beautiful
Verbena is suitable for the conservatory as well
as for the flower garden. Plants rooted in March
should now be ready for potting into 5-inch pots.
A mixture of rich loam, leaf-soil and a little decayed
cow-manure and silver sand will suit them well.
Grow in a temperature of 55° and avoid cold
draughts.
The Flower Garden.
Border Chrysanthemums. — Spring-struck cut-
tings should lie planted out before they become
pot-bound and stunted. Besides planting these
on the mixed border, a plantation ought to be
made on a break by themselves, especially if large
quantities of cut flowers are desired during the
autumn. Onlv early flowering varieties should
be planted for this "purpose, and they ought to
be allowed a spac e of 2 feet from plant to plant.
Climbing Plants. — These soon become entangled
if not regularly attended to and the shoots thinned
and tied in the right direction. Many of the
climbing varieties of Roses make far too much
growth, and unless these are thinned out and
trained, thev will become a mass of rubbish.
Clematises also require attention at least every
ten days during the early part of the season.
The Rose Garden. — Careful attention must
be- paid to the destruction of aphis, which is almost
sure to appear after cold east wind. Syringe
the trees carefully with some approved insecticide,
and see that they do not suffer from want of water
at the roots. Roses which were planted recently
should be carefully mulched with decayed manure,
and if dry weather continues, a good watering
ought to f)e gi\'en after mulching.
May-Flowering Tulips which are at present
occupying the flower-beds may have to be lifted
before' they are quite ripe, and if such is the case,
they should be carefully labelled and placed in
the' reserve garden until' the bulbs are ripe, when
they may be lifted and placed in the store-room
until the time arrives for planting.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Watering. — In consequence of the unusual
drought in April and early May, it will be advisable
to examine the borders to ascertain if water
is necessary. In the case of recently planted
trees, it is almost sure to be required, and this
should be applied in sufficient quantity to
thoroughly moisten the soil. If the borders were
mulched, this will have done much to retain the
moisture in the soil ; but even then it may be
necessary to give a thorough watering at once.
Apricot trees which are necessarily planted in
porous soil are generally the first to suffer, and
if once allowed to become too dry at the roots,
no amount of care afterwards will restore them
to a healthy condition. All fruit trees in exposed
positi4)ns should receive attention at once.
Gooseberry Trees. — Now is the time to guard
against caterpillar. Let the trees be thoroughly
syringed with some insecticide as soon as this
pest makes its appearance. A dusting of soot
and lime early in the season will do much to keep
the trees free from this and other pests.
The Kitchen Garden.
Early Cauliflower. — Recently planted Cauli-
flower will require special attention. Weak liquid
manure may be applied twice during the week,
taking care to moisten the ball of soil thoroughly.
Spring-sown plants for succession should be
planted on well-prepared soil as soon as large
enough to handle. These will require careful
attention and protection from slugs, but will repay
the rultj\-ator if properly attended to.
Lettuce. — Spring-sown plants should now be
ready for thinning and transplanting. Sprinkle
the plants night and morning until they become
re-established. Slugs may be kept in check
by dusting the border with lime in the early
rrioming. Make fortnightly sowings from now
lo the end of July, and, as the season advances,
a cool situation should be chosen for them.
Brussels Sprouts. — Let these be planted out
as soon as large enough, allovring 3 feet between
the rows and 2 feet from plant to plant. The
soil for this crop should be of a rather stiff nature
and not too rich.
Radishes. — Make frequent small sowings of
Radishes, choosing a position which is not too
hot and allowing plenty of water.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Swede Turnips. — Every garden should have
a number of rows (according to requirements)
of this excellent winter vegetable. Unlike the
ordinary garden Turnip, Swedes require a much
richer soil and plenty of room to develop the
roots. The present is a very suitable- tinic to
make a sowing, provided the soil is in condition
for this, but. of course, they may be sown any
time up to the beginning of June.
Globe Artichokes. — The protecting material
may either be forked in or cleared away, and if
the' soil is at all dry, they will be greatly assisted
by occasional waterings with weak liquid manure
from the byre. Where extra large heads are in
demand, the small ones that appear on the sides
of the stalk should be removed, going over them
several times.
Late Varieties of Peas. — As this sowing has
usually to withstand the heat and excessive drought
of the' summer, it will be necessary to make pro-
vision accordingly. Dig out some small trenches
as for Celery, and place some good farmyard manure
in the bottom ; then replace the soil. In sowing,
place the seed a little deeper than usual, and by
all means sow thinly. Indeed, I am not sure that
growers would not' get better results if the seed
were dropped in singly.
Tomatoes. — There is usually a number of plants
to spare after the house or frame has been fur-
nished. These should always be planted on some
vacant spot against a wall, preferably facing
south. The fact that they have been standing
about in pots will have tended to throw them into
fruitlulncss, and these very soon show flower.
It is true the fruits may not be so fine as those
grown under glass ; all the same, the cook will
find a use for them.
The Flower Garden.
Wall Climbers. — Too often thtse are allowed
to lake rare of themselves. They become so
intermingled that half their beauty is' lost, whereas
a little attention at this time in the way of training
would amply compensate for the extra trouble.
This is particularly necessary with many of the
finer Clematises, which give such a glorious display
in September.
Portulacas. — These lovely annuals, which are
usually treated as half-hardy, may be so\vn now
out of doors where they are intended to flower.
They must have a position where they will be
exposed to the full glare of the sun, and the soil
should be of a light, sandv nature. Any vacant
pockets in the rockery would suit them admirably.
Plants Under Glass.
Begonia Gloire de Lorraine. — Plants rooted
last montli will now be ready for a shift, and for
this potting use a compost consisting of good
fibrous loam, leaf-soil, sand, a sprinkling of brick
rubble and a little dried cow-manure. It is
important that they are not potted over-firmly,
otherwise the young growths are sure to become
stunted and run to flow'cr. .\fter potting, keep
them in a warm, moist atmosphere, syringing
them two or three times a day. Some of the
older plants may be retained and grown on in
wire baskets, wlien, with proper attention, they
will make splendid specimens. Indeed, this
Begonia is much more effective when grown in this
way than in pots.
Gloxinias. — Young plants from seed sown in
January will now be ready for potting on. Use
soil of a free, open nature, and do not overpot.
They will require abundant shade and an atmo-
sphere charged with moisture. Older plants
will now be greatly assisted by occasional appli-
cations of weak liquid manure from the byre.
This will be found to suit them better than artificial
manures. When the flow'ers appear, the plants
should have less moisture, and if placed among the
Maidenhair Ferns this will make a very tasteful
arrangement.
Palms. — Those plants that have done service
in the way of furnishing in the mansion will now
call for attention. No matter how carefully they
have been attended to, they are sure to be show'ing
signs of their uncongenial surroundings. Trim off
all decayed points and have every part thoroughly
sponged, and before placing them in the Palm-
house examine the drainage and top-dress with
some turfy loam and a little Clay's Fertilizer.
During the next two months they will require a
heavy shade and an abundance of moisture. Under
this treatment it is really surprising how quickly
they recover.
Regal Pelargoniums. — These will now be
coming into bloom, and where large specimens
are desired, it will be necessary to stake them
out. This, however, should not be overdone,
as there is nothing more objectionable than any
appearance to stiffness. They will require to be
fumigated from time to time to ward off green fly.
Crotons. — Tops that were mossed should be
potted up without delay. Have them placed in
the propagating-case for a few days and shade
from bright sunshine. Established plants should
be fully exposed to the sun and frequently syringed
during fine days. If some stock plants still remain,
it will not be too late to root a few for decorative
purposes in the autumn. If kept in 3-inch pots,
they will be found to be extremely useful for dinner-
table decoration. For this purpose they can be
turned out of the pots and placed in small silver
dishes. Treated in this way they are most
eftective.
Fruits Under Glass.
Thinning Grapes. — Ai this season the various
varieties of Grapes will be coming on so fast
that it will be a matter of concern to cope with
the work of thinning. However one is pressed
for time, this work should be carefully attended to.
Go over the bunches that are thickly set and tie
up the shoulders, and begin by cutting out all
small and badly placed berries. The final thin-
ning may be done when it can be seen how they
are going to swell. The greatest care should he
taken not to touch or rub any of the benies, as this
would disfigure the bunch.
John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow^
Hopcloun Gardens, South Quccnsferry, N.JS.
I
May i6, 1914.J
THE GARDEN.
251
SPRING FLOWER BEDS AT
BOURNEMOUTH.
IT would be very difficult indeed to find
any other town in England where flower
beds in the public gardens and open spaces
are better or more artistically furnished
at all seasons of the year than at Bourne-
mouth. The summer effects in this seaside
resort we have often seen and admired, but it
was not until this year that we had been privileged
to see the fine spring effects that the council's
liead-gardener, Mr. J. B. Stevenson, yearly places
before the public.
It was in Queen Victoria's Jubilee year, 1887,
that this worthy and highly esteemed gardener
first came to Bournemouth in his present capacity,
the neighbouring seaside resort, Swanage, having
claimed his attention previous to that date.
Since then he has seen some wonderful changes
in the borough over which he keeps an ever-watchful
eye, and it is only fair to add that most of the
beautiful gardens and open spaces owe their
charm, and in some instances their existence, to his
energy, ability and enterprise.
Naturally, spring beds must of necessity contain
a great many Tulips, and in using these Mr.
Stevenson, by a simple yet ingenious plan, maintains
a display of flowers over twice the ordinary period.
His method is this : Wherever Tulips are to be
used, two varieties of the same colour are selected,
one an early sort and the other a May-flowering
kind. The bulbs of these are planted fairly closely
together and alternately, so that when the early
varieties are finished, the later ones take up the
running, and continue until it is time to empty
the beds ready for the summer occupants.
In the little time that we had at our disposal
we made notes of a few of the most effective beds,
the date being April 29, and the particulars of
these we record herewith for the benefit of our
readers. It will
be noticed that
all the designs
are simple, yet
the effect of the
beds, either in
conjunction or
alone, was excel-
lent, (r) Mun-
stead Wood
P o 1 y a n thuses,
with a broad
edging of Au-
brietiaDr.Mules,
thinly planted
over with Tulip
Wouverman,
pink, and Royal
Crown ; (2) Har-
bi n ger Wall-
flower, with Nar-
cissus Elvira
thinly inter-
spersed and
boldly edged
with double
white Arabis ;
(3) two long beds
planted with
mixed Polyan-
thuses, edged
with double
white Daisies
MR. J. B.
TO THE
STEVENSON, HEAD GARDENER
BOURNEMOUTH CORPORATION.
and thinly planted with Tulips President Lincoln
and Inglescombe Scarlet ; (4) Tulips Prince ot
Austria and macrospe.la, planted rather thickly,
carpeted with double white Daisies and edged
with small-flowered red Daisy Firefly ; (5) Tulips
Eleanora (purple) and Blushing Bride, carpeted
with double white Arabis and edged with Aubrietia
Model ; (6) Tulips Ophir d'Or and Bouton d'Or.
carpeted with Aubrietia Hendersonii and boldly
edged with Daisy Giant White ; (7) Tulips Yellow
Prince and gesntriana lutea, with Aubrietia Dr.
Mules, and edged with Daisy Gian' White ;
(8) Tulips Mrs. Stanley and gesneriana lutea,
carpeted with double white Arabis and edged
with Aubrietia Model ; (9) Pansy Empress, edged
with Viola Snow Queen, and planted over with
Tulips Pink Beauty and Blushing Bride ; (10)
Yellow Polyanthuses, edged with Daisy Giant
Pink, and planted over with Tulips Rosamunde
and Picotee.
In addition to the foregoing there were a great
many beautiful flower-beds. In the autumn,
just before planting-time, we hope to induce Mr.
Stevenson, whose portrait we have much pleasure
in reproducing herewith, to give our readers the
benefit of his long and varied experience in planning
and planting spring beds. It may be of interest
to record that he is the father of Mr. Thomas
Stevenson, the well-known Sweet Pea cultivator
and exhibitor.
THE
NARCISSUS FLY
NEW ZEALAND.
IN
SPRING FLOWER BEDS IN FRONT OF MR. STEVENSON S HOUSE AT BOURNEMOUTH.
CtE quantities of bulbs, mainly Daffodils,
have arrived in Aucldand by every
English parcel post during the last
four or five weeks, and before delivery
they are subjected to an examination
by an inspector appointed by our
Agricultural Department. WhUe the bulk of
these parcels have probably been passed as clean
and free from disease, several I know have
been found to contain merodon (Narcissus fly)
grub and been condemned. Unfortunately, this
inspection is not infallible, for to my knowledge
more than one parcel containing the dreaded
grub has passed the inspection and reached the
addressee, both this season and last. As the
regulations of the Department at present stand,
any parcel found to contain even one infested
bulb is condemned and destroyed in toto. Thus,
while in their
well-meant ef-
forts to keep out
this pest a large
number of per-
fectly sound
bulbs are un-
necessarily de-
stroyed, there is
no certainty that
the Narcissus fly
is not already
established here,
for though in
the cases to
which I refer a
close examina-
tion by the im-
porter detected
grubs previously
overlooked, we
do not know how
many similar
parcels passed
into the hands
of inexperienced
persons, who pro-
bably planted
them without
further scrutiny.
I sincerely hope
that we may
have escaped,
252
THE GARDEN.
[May i6, 1914.
but I am not at all free from doubt, and I
look forward to next season with some
apprehension to prove whether my doubts are
groundless.
Those growers here who have considered the
matter have come to the conclusion that the
examination of the bulbs before leaving home,
which our Government insists on, is practically
useless to detect merodon grub, for the reason
that the parasite has not at the time of export
developed ; but during the six or seven weeks
in transport it grows into a fat grub, and on
arrival here its presence is not difficult to
detect by carefully examining and squeezing the
bulb.
The local inspector was interviewed, and he
discussed the subject with us very courteously,
and informed us he had had experience of the
fly in the Old Country. We urged the futility
of the preliminary examination in England, and
that while it is highly desirable that all bulbs
afiected, or in the slightest way doubtful or
suspicious, should be destroyed, we considered it
wasteful to treat the sound bulbs in the same
way. He expressed himself in sympathy with
our views, but stated the regulations allowed
him no discretion or latitude. He promised to
represent the matter to his Department, and we
hope the regulation may be modified ; but until
it is I would suggest to all English bulb merchants
exporting to New Zealand that, if they wish to
minimise the risk of loss to themselves and their
Colonial customers, they should not pack Daffodils
with other bulbs or in large quantities, but split
up orders into small parcels, expensive bulbs
being packed singly. This, of course, would
entail extra trouble and expense, but at present
I cannot offer any other suggestion. Unless
some such course is adopted, I should not be
surprised if a falling off of orders from this country
is experienced ; and it may not be inopportune
to mention that whereas formerly there were
two factors affecting the volume of business
between England and New Zealand in Daffodils,
viz. : (i) The trouble and time (two to three
years) involved in importing and acclimatising ;
(2) the high price of most of the newer and better
sorts ; there are now two more likely to bear on
the matter : (3) New Zealand raised seedling
varieties equal (if not superior) to many of the
English varieties which have so far been imported
are now coming into commerce here at reason-
able prices ; (4) last, but by no means least,
the Narcissus fly.
Auckland, New Zealand. A. E. Gri.ndrod.
ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor intends to
make JHi: G.\iuiE-N help/id to (til leaders who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, mil cotton-wool, and ftoicering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the. plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher.
In providing the latter you might also give a liquid niauure
twice weekly to encourage and develop the growth
neccisary to a good flowering. The fact tliat the plant
continues growing is an excellent sign, and if you play
your part and develop that growth to the utrnost, yoij
will have flowers and plenty of them in due course. The
patiiway is not an ideal position, tliough firm planting
is neei;ssary In all light soils, and with it "a fp.irly generous
system of cultivation.
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
Every department of horticulture is represented in The
Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions
relating to matters upon which they wish expert advice.
The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
hut he will not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where statnps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.
As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the t'.ctual photo-
grapher or oumer of the copyright will be treated with.
The Editor loill not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden vnll alone
bf recognised as acceptance.
Offices: 20, Tavistock Street Covent Garden, W.C.
FLOWER GARDEN.
INJURY TO DAFFODIL FOLIAGE {C.D.).~Thc foliage
of the ]JatfodiIs ^tmt is insufficient to enable us to say
with certainty from what di^ea^c they are sutfering.
You ivill probably find, if you lift them, that some pest
is at work either upon the bulb or upon the root.
VERBENA MAHONETTE {Mrs. X.).— We do not recall
a Verbena of this name, and wonder whether the variety
of V. tenera known as IMahoneti is intended. All Verbenas
may be growTi in the open from May to September. Some,
indeed, as V. venosa, are quite hardy in the London di^^tvict,
while V. chamsedryfolia is nearly so in several places.
Both these hail from Brazil, as also does the variety of
V. tenera mentioned. Complete hardiness is, however,
very much a question of experiment in differing localities.
IMPROVING THE SOIL OF A GARDEN (Blenheim).—
As you i;avi* your garden a <;ood drc-sins of brokeu-up
chalk la-^t autunm, and pri;sumably dug it in tliis spring,
we do not think that you are in a position in this short
cimc to say whether the plants will be benefited by the
addition of lime to the soil. From what you say, we
certainly think that the chalk should be of great service
in such heavily manured ground. As the season advances
you will be better able to see the effects of your top-
dressing, and it will then probably give satisfaction.
PRIMULAS (M. ./.).— Such Primulas as P. pulverulenta,
P. rosea, J*, farinosa and P. Poissoni do not require to be
divided each year. The first two and the last named may
be quite good for three or more years if provided with plenty
of rich soil and root moisture for those first named. P.
farinosa, while strictly perennial, gives by far the best
results when raised periodically from seeds ; indeed, the
others only attain their greatest vigour when so treated.
Seeds arc so abundantly produced in many of the species,
and vegetate so quickly if sown almost as soon as ripe,
that division of the plants, because of the frequent unsatis-
factory results accruing therefrom, does not receive serious
thought. Moreover, the seedling plant, for robust vigour
and generous flowering, is unequalled.
PEACOCK IRIS NOT FLOWERING (T. H. C.).— The
most likely cause of the noii-lloweriug is the smallness of
the bulbs, and as they have all started well and appear
liealthy in other respects, it leaves but little doubt in the
matter. Tn your sun-kissed California this delightful
small plant should give but slight trouble, seeing that it
requires little more than a sunny position, very sandy
though comparatively rich and w ll-draincd soil, and
plenty of moisture at the roots during its season of growth.
After thr growiiiu' si aaon it should be given absoiuti^ nst.
Like many uthrr South African plants, the abuvf didiL'hts
in sun and warmth, and probably even with yuu a raised
ivMiw in a sunny position would suit it best. Strictly
speaking, it is not an Iris the correct name is Morrea
glaueopis.
EASILY GROWN ROCK PLANTS {£. F. i/.).— You
cannot do better than concentrate attention upon the
Aubrietias, Mossy Saxifrages and subulata Phloxes for
the most part, which will also afford you a flowering for
weeks on end. Ot Aubrietias, take Dr. Mules (violet),
Fire King (red). Lavender (mauve), MoerheimJ (pink and
white) and Lloyd Edwards (rich purple). Of Saxifrages,
Guildf jr:i Si edlin;:, Clibrani, lied Admiral (all liigh-
coloured \arieties). Lady Deanc, Camposii and Arkwrightii
awhile) and Miss Wilhnott (white and biu-h). Of the
Phloxes, Nelsonii (white), Mode' (pink), atropurpuri'a
(dark red) and amcena (rosy red). Achillea nipestris
(whitcO, Silene alpestris (wliite), Zausehucria calif ornica
(scarlet), Saxifraga Aizoon rosea, Campanula muralis, C.
pusilla Miss \Yillmott (bhic shades), and Thymus
Serpylhun cocciiK-uni (ndjarr also good and I'asily grown.
GENTIAN NOT FLOWERING {E. J. i.).— So far as we
are able to judge from the fragments before us, the plants
are anxious to flower, but are debarred from so doing
by conditions of semi-starvation. The leaf growth,
despite the evidences of a desire to niu to Uower, is quite
inadequate ; it should be twice or tliricc as large, llcncf
we can but conchidc that the plants are too poorly grown.
In soils of a hot, sandy nature like yours, a comparativ»'ly
liberal fare is necessary, and plenty of summer moisture.
TREES AND SHRUBS.
SHRUB TO NAME {DH. S. .5.).— The specimen sent
for name is the Bird Cherry (Pruniis Padus). It grows
into a moderate-sized tree arid blossoms freely.
INJURY TO RHODODENDRONS (Major M.).— We
regret we are unable to say from the specimens sent
what is attacking the Rhododendrons, though we suspect
it to be a weevil. Perhaps you would keep watch and see
exactly what it is and send us specimens.
CLIPPING A HOLLY HEDGE (H. K.).^X Holly hedge
may be clipped at the present time, if you so wish, but it
should be clipped again in autumn. Such hedges are
usually clipped on the completion of growth, so that they
may be left tidy for the winter. If, however, the hedge
requires a severe cutting back, April is the best time for
the work. It is very ditflcult to rid leaf-mouid of Insects,
and perhaps the best plan is to spread it out in the sun
and turn it a few times before it is used.
IRISH YEW {A Reader).~All that you can do to your
Irish Yew, which does not appear to be recovering aft"'r
being transplanted, is to cut the branches back by a
foot or so and keep the plant well syringed two or thre>-
times a day while the weather is dry. It is usually
advisable to remove a little of the branch growth uf
evergreens at the time of transplanting, in order that
the etfect of root injury may be lessened. Should th*^
soil about the roots appear dry, give water now and then.
A mulch of decayed leaves about the surface of the soil
will also be advantageous.
ABOUT HARDY FUCHSIAS (Blenheim).— The height
attained by the different Fuchsias \aries greatly accordins
to the locality, for in tlie more favoured parts of the
country they form large bushes, Avhile in others they are
usually cut to tljc ground during the winter, and throw
up new shoots each spring after the manner of a herbaceous
plant. It is therefore e\ident that under these last-
named conditions they will not attain anything like the
height that they do where they grow untouf-hed. Tlie
roost vigorous of those mentioned is F. Iticcartonii. which
in such favoured localities as the Isle of Wight and similar
spots will reach a height of 10 feet or 12 feet or even more.
Less in stature come F. longipedunculata, F. virgata
and F. gracilis, while F. exoniensis, the shortest of all.
is, unless supported, about three feet high. The other
two varieties we do not know. Where the plants dii-
down during the winter and young shoots push up in
the spring, the varieties named, mth the exception of
F. exoniensis, will reach a height of 2 fi.et to 4 feet, accord-
ing to the ^igour of the plants. All these l^'iichsias, and,
in fact, one may say the whole of the hardy kinds, flower
throughout the siunmer and well on into the autumn,
that is, should tlie weather be mild. All the prunhig
needed is in the spring, when the new shoots make their
appearance, to cut out any dead wood, or occasionally
it may be necessary to shorten a shoot in order to maintain
the symmetrica] character of the specimen.
ROSE GARDEN.
STANDARD ROSES FOR TOWN GARDENS (Blen/ieim).
— The note on standard il-jses for town gardens that you
desire appeared in The Gv^iDEN for April II. Reference
to standards is as follows : " The two varieties better
than all others for standard Roses are Hugh Dickson
and Frau Karl Druschki, and having regard to the difficulty
of obtaining good heads in the average town garden,
most growers would do w.il to rely entirely upon these
two sorts. Others whic i may be grown with fair, if not
equal, hopes of success are Mme. ,\bel Chatenay, Caroline
Testout, Mme. Ravary, Lady Ashtowm, J. B. Clark.
Joseph Hill, I\Ime. Melanie Soupert and La Tosca."
ROSE FORTUNE'S YELLOW SHEDDING ITS FOLIAGE
(Spa).—This Rose does not take kindly to pot cultun-.
It may be owing to the sudden changes of the weather,
but we rather think it is over-watering and the insutlicieni
ripening of the growths. It would be much better if you
could plant out the Rose under glass ; it would have its
growtli better ripened. One of the secrets regarding the
successful culture of this Rose lies in the pruning. .\s
soon as it lias ci ased lilooming, prune back hard all side
growths, cut tingtheTuclnsr lot he main shoots. Newgro^vths
will soon appear. The weakest shoots should be thinned
o\it during the summer, and wlien growth has fluished
cut back liard all side shoots that have sprung from the
other growths during the summer, and just remove the ends
of the main growths. .Vlford good drainage and, whi-n
watering, give water copiously; then be careful only to
water when required.
THE GREENHOUSE.
SCHIZANTHUS DYING OFF (At her static). -The Sehi-
zanthus is appan-ntly attacked by a fungus nearly allied
to that whicli produces a similar disease in Tomatoes.
Tliore is no cure, i>nd it would bo well to sterilise all the
soil used in seed sowing and growing ol these plants in
future, as in all probability the spores are carried in the
soil.
GARDEN.
^^
No. 2218.— Vol. LXXVIII.
\
May 23, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
A Useful Wall Plant. — Erinus alpinus, in its
varied forms, is a gem among plants tliat are
adapted for planting on old walls, and one that is
established without the least trouble if the seeds
are sown in chinks or cracks, or even in moss if
there is any on the wall. Such places look
very bright at the present time, and will con-
tinue so for many weeks. All should grow it who
have an old wall, for it will succeed there, while it
often perishes on the flat ground if the soil
is of a very heavy nature.
Lieutenant - Colonel Sir George
HolJord, K.C.V.O., C.I.E.— It affords us
considerable pleasure to be able to repro-
duce a recent and excellent photograph of
Lieutenant-Colonel Sir George Holford,
Sir George is a deservedly popular member
of the Council of the Royal Horticultural
Society, and his valuable services are
willingly and freely given on behalf ol
the Fellows. Visitors to the society's
exhibitions will remember with very keen
pleasure the magnificent groups of Orchids,
Hippeastrums and other flowers that Sir
George sends from his charming gardens
at Westonbirt, Tetbury, Gloucestershire.
At the great International Show held at
Chelsea two years ago, his group of Orchids
was easily the best that has ever been
staged in this or any other country, not
only on account of the rarity and wonder-
ful variety of the plants, but also for the
highly artistic manner in which they were
arranged. It will be interesting to recall
the fact that this magnificent group was
awarded the cup offered by the King foi
the best exhibit in the show. Sir George
was an Equerry to the late King Edward
from rSgz to igro, since when he has
been Equerry to Queen Alexandra and an
Extra Equerry to His Majesty the King.
A Beautiful Spring-flowering Tree.
In Amelanchier canadensis, the Snowy
Mespilus, we have one of the finest ot
early blooming trees, and one that is not
nearly so well known as it deserves to be.
Its mantle of snowy white blossoms, which
are disposed on short racemes and are so numerous
that the tree becomes an almost complete sheet of
white, produces a fine effect in spring and early
summer. The usefulness of the species is enhanced
by the fact that it flowers from the commence-
ment, and plants i foot to 2 feet high bloom as
freely as a tree 20 feet in height. It may be
used in groups, or in a bed by itself, and in the
autumn it is again made attractive by the richness
of its deep red foliage.
Leaf-Blister on Peaeh Trees. — We have lately
received many complaints about leaf-blister on
Peach and Nectarine trees. Tliis is caused mainly
by cold wind, and especially after warm weather.
The only remedy for this is to remove the leaves
which are worst affected, and to encourage healthy
growth as quickly as possible. The preventive
is, of course, warm covering, which cannot always
be applied. When warm weather sets in, the
purple
LIEUTENANT -COLON EL SIR GEORGE LINDSAY
HOLFORD, K.C.V.O., CLE.
syrhig*-., if applied twice daily, will soon restore
such trees to good health.
Spring Bedding in a Scottish Garden.— .\
charming bit of spring bedding has been seen
this year at St. Mary's Isle, Kirkcudbright, the
seat of Captain Hope, R.N. This consists of a
scheme of beds of the double Arabis dotted with
plants of Sutton's Royal Blue Myosotis, with
others of Wallflowers, both golden yellow and
blood red. The effect of the snowv .Arabis and
the brilliant blue of the Myosotis is e.xceedingly
fine, and Mr. Jeffrey, Captain Hope's gardener,
is to be congratulated on the success of his scheme.
A Charming Little Bock Plant.— Draba
pyrenaica, perhaps better known by the name of
Petrocallis pyrenaica, should always have a place,
even when the very choicest of alpines only are
grown. Just now it is opening its delicate grey
or heliotrope coloured flowers, which
completely cover the whole plant, which is
only an inch or so high. The colour may
be termed a quiet one, but good patches are
very effective. It requires a well-drained
soil and a good open position. It is a
charming little plant for the moraine,
where it appears quite at home.
A New Hybrid Bomarea. — In the
Botanic Garden, Cambridge, a beautifu!
hybrid Bomarea is flowering for the first
time. It is the result of crossing B. cal-
dasiana with B. patacocensis, the former
being the seed-bearing parent. It will
undoubtedly prove to be a useful green-
liouse climber, being quite intermediate
between the two parents, having the free-
flowering habit of B. caldasiana with some
of the rich colour of the pollen parent, but
of a much brighter red. It has been named
B. Banksii, after the raiser, Mr. G. Banks
if the Botanic Garden, Cambridge.
An Effective Combination of Wild
Flowers. — While passing a wood the other
day we were very much struck by the effect
obtained from our common Bluebell mixed
with the Greater Stitchwort or Satin Flower,
Stellaria Holostea. The wood was a mass
of blue, while on the edge of it were masses
of the Stellaria growing among the Blue-
bells. The pure wliite of the Stitchwort
formed a striking contrast to the deep blue.
This is only one of the numerous instances
how many of our native flowers could be
used with good effect, particularly in some
of the wilder parts of the garden.
Top - Dressing Lilium speciosum. —
Plants which are growing freely and which
were potted with the idea of top-dressing
sliou'd now receive attention. No great quantity of
soil ought to be placed round the bulbs at one time.
It is better to top-dress again when the young roots
are pushing through the surface. The soil mav con-
sist of turfy loam and leaf-soil, with a small quantity
of decayed cow-manure and rough silver sand. As
the shoots develop they should be carefully secured
to neat stakes, and as aphides are sometimes trouble-
some, the plants may receive an occasional fumiga-
tion with nicotine compound to keep them in check.
254
THE GARDEN.
[:\iav
1914.
GORRESPONDENCE.
(The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
Use of Grass Cuttings. — Forcing Rhubarb
and Seakale out of doors with manure never seems
to me a very clean way of managing. Even when
the manure is only round the pots, some is apt
to fall in when they are moved. It is a better
plan to save grass dippings and make them into
hay. Through the summer these can be mixed
with the last fresh ones from the autumn cutting,
and, piled round the Seakale pots, will make a
splendid lining for the forcing-pit in the winter. —
Ethel Case, Bishops Waltham, Hants,
Effects ol the Recent Cold Weather.— For-
tunately for ardent horticulturists, such a severe
frost as was experienced on the evening of May i and
in the early hours of May 2 is seldom known in May.
afforded by midday on the znd inst. ample food
for thought. — H. Turner, Serlby Gardens, Bawtry,
Yorks.
Alpines on an Old Weil-Head.— The photo-
graph of the ancient well-head shows the cushion
of Saxifraga Boydii alba to the left of the stone,
as Mr. E. H. Jenkins, on page 214, issue May 2,
wished to know what had become of the white
sport of S. Boydii all this time. Our district is
situated near the ancient Roman causeway Augusta-
Vindobona, the Augsburg- Regensburg of the
present day, and several redoubts and camps
occur in this neighbourhood. There is little
doubt that these well-heads, of which several
were in the village, were fetched from a tufa
quarry some thirty miles distant. They were
each cut out of a solid block. They are about
sixty inches across, and the thickness of the upper
and lower rims is about nine inches, while the
space between them recedes about one and a-half
AN ANCIENT WELL-HEAD PLANTED WITH ALPINES IN A BAVARIAN GARDEN.
Here in this district (South Yorks) readings varied
from 10° up to 14°, and the loss, as may easily
be imagined, is most serious to fruit-growers.
Notwithstanding very dry atmospheric conditions
and the soil also dry. Plums and Damsons, even
with the foliage well advanced, have been almost
entirely ruined. Pears and Apples, too, I fear
(although rather too early to say definitely) have
had fully 75 per cent, of the crop killed, and this,
1 am sorry to add, after prospects were excep-
tionally bright. Currants and Strawberries,
where unprotected, were likewise visited,
but Gooseberries suffered little. In park and
shrubbery, also, ample evidence may be found
of how bitterly cold it has been. Some of the old
Oaks look as though they had been badly scorched,
and Sweet Chestnuts are equally sorry pictures,
while even the common Laurel and Box trees
had all new growth " nipped " badly. Japanese
Maples and Wistarias appear to have been especially
sought out, and what was on the afternoon of
the ist inst. a sight worth seeing of the latter,
inches. The place where the bucket was usually
set down is noticeable in a deeply worn-out gap.
When proper spring-water works were introduced,
these well-heads become superfluous, and it was
quite by chance that I was able to save one of them
by paying los. for it, else it would, like its com-
rades, have been broken off for road-making.
It had already been broken in two. I joined it
together again, filled it in with a very stony com-
post, and planted it with alpines, which feel quite
at home on it. To the left is seen the large tuft of
the sport of S. Boydii alba of fifteen years ago ;
then follow Androsace Chumbyi (not in flower yet),
Saxifraga Elizabethae (the large dark plot), S.
valdensis, S. Aizoon rosea, S. cochlearis, S. albino
Genderi, Dianthus microlepis, Leontopodium
alpinum, Alsine Rosanii, Globularia nana and
Erinacea pungens. Down the back, not visible,
is a patch of nearly a square foot of Saxifraga
apiculata and another of S. oppositifolia, S. lata
(Schott.), Paronychia, Primula Auricula, Ramondia
pyrenaica, several Sempcrvivums and other things.
The pride of the show, Saxifraga longifolia, which
again reached 12 inches in diameter, flowered
last year, and has not been replaced yet. I
propose furnishing the spot with S. longifolia x
cochlearis, which has similar flowers, but has
the advantage of producing new rosettes after
flowering. — E. Heinrich, Planegg, Bavavia.
Lithospermum Gastonii. — Gaston's Gromwell
is one of the most charming of all, but it possesses
one great drawback in the minds of the would-be
cultivator — it is remarkably troublesome in its
ways. A good writer and cultivator says of it ,
with justice also, that it is " fairly hardy but
rather difficult to cifltivate. . . . One of the
choicest of the whole family. They are lucky
indeed with whom it will thrive." Some others
have less difficulty, but the plant always remains
comparatively scarce and is exceedingly trouble-
some to establish. It is well worth the trouble,
so beautiful indeed is this g-inch-high Gromwell,
with its terminal clusters of azure blue, white-
eyed flowers, borne for a while in the summer
months. My object in writing this note is to point
out that it may establish itself in what are unortho-
dox places, and that no one should despair of
success without perseveringly attempting it under
various conditions. Previous to an upheaval
caused by removal I had established it in rockwork
between stones in light sandy loam ; but I was
quite unprepared to see it not oidy growing but
spreading freely in an ordinary border. This
was in the garden of Mr. John Ferguson, The
Hermitage, Duns — the raiser, by the way, of the
delightful little Saxifraga Fergusonii. — S. Arnott,
Dumfries.
Primulas Causing Rash.— Your correspondent
" J. D.," in your issue of May 16, page 238, voices
a warning concerning the rash-producing properties
of Primula obconica, which are all too well known
to many who have had it in their houses. I am
sorry to see P. malacoides grouped with it, and,
in common, no doubt, with many of those who
admire that plant, would be glad to learn whether
others have suffered from handling it, and whether
the evidence for condemning it in " J. D.'s "
case is quite clear of possible complication with
P. obconica. It is a curious thing that many
persons can handle the latter plant with impunity,
while others cannot even handle its seeds without
incurring the danger of rash, and momentary
contact with the foliage, as in brushing past it, is,
with them, sufficient to ensure irritation. In
his admirable paper on Chinese Primulas read
at the Primula Conference and printed in the
Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society,
Vol. XXXIX., Part i. Professor Bayley Balfour
says : " Primula sinolisteri is a plant of special
horticultural interest. It was introduced in 1908
by Bees, Limited, grown from Forrest's seeds,
and promises to be in our gardens what P. obconica,
Hance, ought to have been, but is not. P.
sinolisteri, BaU. fils, has not the irritant hairs. It
is a free grower, forming compact masses of dark
green, acutely lobed leaves, and the trusses of
white (sometimes lilac) flowers are many. In
our northern climate it is not quite hardy —
like true P. obconica, Hance, in that respect.
It was sent out as P. Listeri, King — a venial error
of naming — and the name sinohsteri has been
given in the hope of making the change of nomen-
clature less disturbing. P. sinolisteri, Balf. fils,
is I am sure a plant of horticultural merit." It
is evident that in P. sinolisteri your correspondent
would have a plant that would exactly fit the
purpose he requires it for. — Fred J. Chittenden.
May 23, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
255
The Earliest Rose. — In reference to the question
raised in May 9 issue by " C. T." as to the
date of the earliest Rose bloom, I may state that
I had a good flower of Bouquet d'Or open on
April 20. The root of the plant is against an
east-north-east wall, but the part r< the plant on
which the bloom made its appearance is trained
against a wall with a south-south-east aspect. —
E. A. C. McCuRDY, Oakdene. Ashlead, Surrey.
Primula ciliata purpurea. — Under this name
I have a very fine hardy Primula, which belongs
apparently to the varied and doubtfully descended
class in which P. Auricula and P. hirsuta have
a share. It is exceedingly handsome this year
in a low, peaty bed which is moist all the winter,
and which is treated to occasional soakings with
pure water in the summer in dry weather. A
good plant is very handsome with its large,
prettily toothed leaves and its handsome trusses of
purple, golden-eyed flowers. It evidently relishes
the cool conditions under which it is grown, and
casts in the shade a number of other plants growing
in the same bed. The position is one which is
largely shaded from the afternoon sun. — S. Arnott.
A Beautiful Tree in Scotland. — Nicholson
speaks of Dimorphanthus mandschuricus, an
interesting and ornamental plant, as a shrub,
but I prefer to regard it as a tree. It is so seldom
seen in Scotland that I think its hardiness must
be considered doubtful, for anyone who knows it
must agree that its striking inflorescence and
subtropical-looking foliage entitle it to a foremost
position among our ornamental trees, or shrubs
if you please. Not only does it do well in the
neighbourhood of Edinburgh, where I know
of several good trees, but last season I came
upon several healthy specimens at Dunecht,
Aberdeenshire, the Scottish seat of Lord and
Lady Cowdray. Dunecht is about thirteen miles
from the coast, and it is no unusual experience
there to have the thermometer down to zero.
Of course, it is well to select a sheltered situation
for this stranger from Manchuria, else its huge
leaves are apt to be damaged by high winds. —
Charles Comfort, Midlothian.
Sweet Peas: The Question of Scent. — it is
feared that recent improvements in regard to
the size of Sweet Peas have been made, in part
at least, at the expense of their perfume. Unfortu-
nately, the trend of the modem grower is to
endeavour to produce what can only rightly be
described as abnormal blooms on ultra-long
stems, regardless of one of the flower's undoubted
fascinations for the table — that of fragrance,
with the result of the above-mentioned deteriora-
tion. The advent of the waved type brought
about the first sign of this decadence, and now
the delicious scent of a freshly cut bunch of the
old (out of date) grandiflora sorts is to be cherished
only as a sweet memory, unless, of course, one
still grows for this original quality. The old cream
variety, Hon. Mrs. Kenyon, was possessed of a
delightful scent, which, in a somewhat lesser
degree, is to be found in Clara Curtis and Queen
Victoria Spencer. From that finest of all whites,
Dorothy Eckford, very sweetly scented, we get
a weaker quality fragrance in Moneymaker and
Etta Dyke ; while the old lavender favourite,
Lady Grisel Hamilton, hands down some of its
perfume through Frank Dolby, but less in that
mammoth variety R. F. Felton, so dear to every
exhibitor's heart. The lavenders or mauves
are, however, all more or less still nicely scented.
Speaking generally, my experience teaches me
that the less the "^^av«'" of a variety the more
fragrant will it be found. I will conclude these
brief remarks with the mention of what, out of
varieties which I have grown on my light soil
(leaving out of consideration grandifloras, except
Dorothy Eckford, which still remains the best
white in colour, substance and scent) I consider
to be the six most fragrant, in order of degree :
Paradise Ivory, Dorothy Eckford, Clara Curtis,
Queen Victoria Spencer, Frank Dolby and Money-
maker.— B. W. Lewis.
Slug-Harbouring Alpines. — In my recently
published book, " The Small Rock Garden,"
there is to be found a chapter — very brief, it is
true — on the " Animal Pests of the Rock Garden,"
and, seeing that the ubiquitous slug is therein
characterised as the " worst " of such pests,
the subject of the present note may be considered
as nearly related thereto. The first thing the rock
gardener or lover of alpines must realise is that
the slug is always present, and though he may
appear to be taking his "days off" in a more
or less erratic way, he may still be found asleep
under cover of a neighbouring plant. Hence
the title of this note. In other words, certain
plants, such as Aubrietias, Veronicas, Phlox
subulata varieties, Acaena and the like, all of which
have prostrate, spreading tufts of leaves, may
justly be regarded as of a slug-harbouring nature ;
and, of course, they are not alone. For the
moment, however, it is the principle to which
I would direct attention, the knowledge of wiiere
to look for this much-to-be-dreaded pest, which,
while making nightly raids upon the choicest
things a rock garden contains, does not remain
in the immediate vicinity of such plants, but
betakes himself to the friendly shelter of the slug-
harbouring alpine, where he is content in the
seclusion, shelter and uniform moisture such plants
afford. To be quite sure of the reason for the
slug betaking himself to such quarters, one has
only to examine a slate, piece of board, or sack
that has lain upon the ground for a few days,
there to find one or more slugs invariably present.
Hence, realising that the reason for his retreat
is seclusion and cover, the gardener has only to
imitate such conditions to get the slug into the
trap. A portion of a rather thick Deal plank is
excellent, better perhaps, for some reason unknown
to me, than either the slate or sack ; and thougJi
such things may appear a little unsightly in the
rock garden, unsightliness is more easily endured
than the ravages a few slugs may create. A
surprising thing about the slug is the distance it
will travel to. get a bite from some choice morsel
of alpine vegetation ; hence one can only imagine
that its sense of smell or appreciation following
an earlier meal must be very keen. In the past
we have been content to try a Cabbage leaf or
two, but these are not of great service unless
the whole of the under surface of the leaf is practi-
cally in touch with the soil. In the case of the
wood trap, rough, partly worn planks have been
found better than new, the slugs invariably clinging
to the wood and not congregating on the soil.
Damp wood, too, is better than dry ; moisture,
indeed, would appear an essential condition. —
E. H. Jenkins.
FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
May 25. — Linncan Society's Anniversary Meeting
at 3 p.m. Rhododendron Show at the Royal Hor-
ticultural Society's Hall, Westminster (five days).
May 28. — Bath and West and Southern Counties
Society's Show at Swansea (five days). Royal
Botanic Society's Meeting.
OUR COMPBTITION FOR
PLANNING & PLANTING
THE LITTLE GARDEN.
AS fully announced in our last issue, we
are offering cash prizes of the total
value of £33 I2S., as well as a
i number of book prizes, for the
^ best designs for planning and plant-
ing the little garden. Four typical
sites, such as are usually met with for small
gardens, have been chosen, and competitors
may send in designs for one or all of the sites.
The rules and conditions governing this com-
petition are to be found in last week's issue,
together with the " application form " which
is to be used by the competitors. In case some
readers did not secure that issue, they can enter
the competition by filling in and posting to the
Editor the form printed on page IV. This form
must be accompanied by four penny stamps
to cover the cost of the sheets on which outline
plans of the sites are given and on which the
designs for planning and planting are to be drawn.
One of the objects of this competition is to
emphasise the fact that the little garden can,
and should, be planned and planted with as much
care and taste as gardens of more pretentious
dimensions. For this reason we hope that as
many of our readers as possible will compete for
at least one of the sites. The competition has
already attracted considerable attention, and
general satisfaction has been expressed that
judges of architectural features as well as of
actual planting have been chosen. So great has
been the demand for last week's issue that it is
practically out of print, but copies of the rules
and the conditions of entry can be obtained on
application, and will be sent post free on receipt
of three halfpenny stamps. Ample time has
been allowed for sending in the plans, in order that
busy gardeners may have full opportunities of
competing, and that our numerous foreign and
Colonial readers may join in the competition.
THE GAPE BLADDER SENNA.
This beautiful flowering greenhouse shrub (Suther-
'andia frutescens), is at its best as a rule in July and
August. It forms an upright-growing plant, clothed
with pretty pinnate foliage of a greyish hue. The
drooping scarlet flowers, which are about one and
a-half inches in length, are very suggestive of those
of Clianthus puniceus. These are in their turn
succeeded by inflated seed - pods, whence the
popular name is derived. It was introduced from
South Africa in 1683, and has long been grown
as a greenhouse plant. Within the last few years
it has, however, become very popular as dot plants
for summer bedding, for specimens about three feet
high will flower profusely. Last year it was very
effective at Battersea Park, a large bed being
planted with the variegated Holcus moUis and the
crimson Begonia semperflorens Ruby, edged with
a broad band of Koniga maritima. As dot plants
over the bed were good examples of Sutherlandia
frutescens in full flower, the general effect being
a very pleasing one. It can be struck from
cuttings of the young shoots, taken in spring,
inserted into pots of sandy soil, and placed in
a close propagating-case till rooted. Plants so
propagated will flower in a smaller state than
seedlings.
256
THE GARDEN.
[May 23, 1914.
WATER-SIDE GARDENING.
we garden on a large or small scale, there will
not be found wanting material of a suitable kind.
COMPARED with former times, when Hence the larger areas may indulge the stately
the chief inhabitants of lake, stream- j Reeds, as Arundo Donax in variety (where these
let or pond were little more than an are suificiently hardy), the bolder Bamboos,
imkempt mass of coarse grass or giant Groundsels, Polygonum or Pampas Grass,
other herbage, the beautifying of the I while not forgetting the handsome Gunnera,
water-side to-day is almost reduced ) which appears in splendid isolation above the
:o a fine art. In proof of this the reader has only 1 Irises in the picture. Among hardy herbaceous
to turn to the front page cover of the present | perennials the Gunnera knows no peer, whether
issue. There will be seen at a glance all that is ' viewed from the standpoint of noble aspect or
best In foliage and flower beauty — a superb fore- picturesque beauty. The plant, too, is at home by
BERBERIS STENOPHYLLA EFFECTIVELY PLANTED BY THE WATER-SIDE.
FLOWED j AND IS QUITE HARDY.
IT HAS GOLDEN YELLOW
room for full development as opposed to that
species of massing which robs a plant of its right
of action, it will not be lacking admirers. There
are also Primulas of high merit for the cool, moist
or sequestered spots of the garden, with Rodger-
sias, Saxifraga peltata and Trilliums. Of the
Primulas, such as rosea, japonica, pulverulenta
and Sieboldii in variety all delight in moisture,
whether at or near the water's edge or in woodland
shade. Last, though by no means least, there
is the great array of Japanese Irises (I. laevigata),
of which a splendid grouping is portrayed on the
front page. Rich in variety,
producing shades of blue, white,
red, crimson, and violet in single
or semi-double flowers that may
be anything from 6 inches to
10 inches across, they are gorgeous
in the extreme, occupying a
pedestal of their own for high
ornament and flower beauty. No
pen-picture could adequately por-
tray the merits of this great and
fitting final to a genus itself unique.
They are usually in flower in
July and August.
If in conclusion one might add
a cultural note, it would be to
say that soil and soil richness
to these water-side plants cannot
with impunity be ignored. By
some the [water — the moisture —
has been regarded all in all,
but it is only true in part. In
conjunction there should be
sweetness and the soil richness
above reierred to. Then, the
" moisture-loving " subject should
not be transformed into an
aquatic. These Irises are a case
in point. Revelling in rich food
supplies, and coolness or moisture
within reach of their root-fibres,
they resent the permanently sub-
merged condition, and unmistak-
ably when planted in brick
earth. In lighter loams or those
ground mirrored into fullest life by a foil savouring
of the ideal. Within the limits of such a setting
as the picture portrays it would be possible to
accomplish much — possibi' indeed, by inserting
some of the b.«t of Nat;- -'s jewels to display
both the gems and the setting at their fullest
worth. Herein lies the " art which doth mend
Nature," and the gardener who accomplishes
so much has already elevated the gardening art
to the highest rank. It mav be said that a scene
like that depicted would only be possible in like
circumstances ; that the picture minus tho frame-
work would lose halt its charm. Exactly. At
the same time I would point out that it is the
wedding of the two which constitutes so beauteous
a whole. One may look in vain for incongruities,
only to find a picture of high ornament and realistic
efieot. As a whole it is ideal ; invaluable as an
object-lesson, even if not possible in all circum-
stances of reproduction in detail. To have such
a picture in the mind's eye when engaging in wati _•-
sida gardening would be worth much. To moula,
modify or adapt to special requirements is the
work of the moment, and with the ideal in view
the gardener need not err. It is all a question
ot making the most of .opportunities ; and whether
rich in vegetable matter in which
the water-side, and though not requiring its roots the roots can ramify freely, they give of their
submerged, revels in cool places and rich and deep best, and in their season are a source of pleasure
-oils. There are boldness and distinction, too, and delight. E. H. Jenkins.
Ml the towering creamy plumes of giant Astilbe .^^^——^^—^—^—^———^^^
and Goat's-beard Spirtea, the last-named genus
also affording colour shades of pink. and carmine BERBERIS STENOPHYLLA.
n jt found elsewhere. Then for flower beauty This beautiful Barberry is said to be a hybrid
and grace combined none can compare with the between Berberis empetrifolia and B. Darwinii.
tall-growing North American Panther Lily, whose Its successful cultivation presents no difficulty, as
crimson flower-shafts, 8 feet or more in height, it seems to grow well on most soils and situations,
show well amid willowy Bamboos and delight in 1 and it can be used successfully for almost any posi-
their shelter-affording sheaves. These Lilies are tion in the pleasure ground. As an isolated lawn
most happy in peaty earth, though soil richness 1 specimen it is particularly graceful, its long,
is much to their lildng. ! slender shoots spraying over with a fountain-like
For smaller areas the gardener may indulge ; effect, which is beautiful at all seasons, but especially
in the newer Astilbes, hybrid descendants of A. 1 so when the plant is covered with a profusion
sinensis, A, s. Davidii and others, which are of bright golden yellow flowers, almost hiding
peculiarly adapted for the water-side. There ' the foliage from view. It is also eminently
is also the unique Spiraea palmata from Japan, suited for planting rough and steeply sloping
than wliich no herbaceous land is so endowed j banks, where it gives a beautiful cascade-like
with flower wealth. Given deep, rich, cool soils effect. It is equally at home on the margins of
or root moisture, the spreading rosy carmine [ woods and shrubberies, and also planted in good
cymes of blossoms appeal to all, the well-marked bold masses in thin woods. In common with
leafage being appropriate for so meritorious a plant, many members of this family, it does not transplant
Two and a-half feet or 3 feet high, amply habited well when it is large ; but young plants present
and self-supporting, it is a plant for all, and, given no difficulty in this respect.
May 23, 19T4.]
THE GARDEN.
257
It is surprising that it is not largely used as a
hedge or screen, for which purpose it is very
■beautiful ; but it should not be clipped with the
shears, as this destroys the character of the plant.
The trimming or pruning should be done with
the knife, simply picking out and shortening
back the too strong and rampant shoots. This
operation is best done after it has finished flowering.
Trimmed in this way, the hedge is kept sufficiently
dense and the graceful habit of the plant preserved.
In the Southern Counties its flowering season is
usually from the end of April to the middle of May.
The plant is easily propagated by means of layers
laid down during the autumn, or by cuttings of
the ripened wood put in sandy soil in a cold frame.
BORDER CARNATIONS
FROM SEED.
THAT the border Carnation is an easy
plant to grow to perfection few would
maintain, but in spite of recent opinion
to the contrary, I firmly believe that
in most parts of these islands this
plant can be very successfully grown
without the aid of glass. In the
moister parts of Britain I believe
it would be difficult, for though
layers which are well established in
autumn will withstand severe frost
with impunity, they will quickly 3
succumb if their roots come in con-
tact with stagnant moisture, and
damp atmospheric conditions are
most favourable to the fungoid
diseases, which are, perhaps, the
worst foes with which the Carnation
grower has to contend. These diffi-
culties are greatly reduced in well-
drained districts ; but from plant-
ing in September to flowering in
August is a long way, and when
wireworm and eelworm, slug and
sparrow, aphis, rust and spot have
this long period in which to take
their toll, there is small wonder
that the outdoor culture of Car-
nations is a difficult, though pos-
sible, task.
To be successful, a great deal of
time, ingenuity and patience are
esirable, even to make the best of
.a few hundred plants, and many
■have not the requisite time, with-
out which skill and enthusiasm are
of little avail. There are doubtless
many who have tried Carnation- '
growing under these conditions, and .'a^i- -< 1
their efforts have ended in disaster,
and these are they who are easily
led to believe that the border Carna-
tion is a difficult plant, a specialist's fancy, and
as such best left to him with as little envy as
possible.
To these — who would grow Carnations, but have
had trouble with named varieties — I should like
to recommend the trial of seedlings. To those
who have not done so, a new delight is in store.
But here a word of warning : there are seedlings
■and seedlings. If ever there were a time when
something could readily be obtained for nothing,
such time has gone, and if Carnation seed is to be
sown, it is waste of time to use anything but the
fcest. Several specialists in Britain, whose reputa-
tion is world-wide, retail hand-fertilised Carnation
seeds at half-a-crown for the hundred, and a better
investment a gardener cannot make. There will
be more genuine pleasure from such a packet than
from . pound of the inferior stuff often sold as
Carnation seed. This is the first point ; the second
is, sow early.
May is a good month to sow, and seed-
lings which are above ground by the end
of the month will prove very satisfactory.
The seed germinates quickly, and the seedlings
are very liable to damp off unless care is
exercised in watering. As soon as they can
be handled, prick off into boxes or sheltered
beds, and by the third week in July they
will probably be about the size of small layers,
and should then be planted in their per-
manent quarters. A plot well manured for
the previous crop should be made very firm,
and the plants put in 16 inches apart each way,
a wider alley between every series of five rows
proving very useful at a later stage. Planted
very firmly in this manner, they will be well
established before winter, and will make a useful
root system, though top growth will not be great
until spring, when the beautiful green-grey shoots
quite possibly no two plants in the batch being
alike ; but though each may not be a Daffodil
or Elizabeth Schiffner, there is sure to be some-
thing, at any rate, worth preserving, if only for one's
own use, and there are always with these plants
the pride of the raiser and the sense of something
accomplished which more than recompenses for
some slight fault of form or colour to which a mere
florist or envious neighbour might point. If this
be not too long already, I should like to add a
census I took of the results of one packet of seeds
bought from a leading grower in the South :
Sowed, April 27, 1911 : 100 seeds ; plants, 93 ;
singles, 3 ; selfs, 23 ; fancies, 23 ; white-ground
Picotees, 3 ; yellow-ground Picotees, ii ; flakes,
14 ; bizarres, 5 ; did not bloom, 7 ; died through
various causes, 4. The number of singles alone
speaks for the quality of the seeds.
East Yorhs. F. M. S.
WISLEY GARDENS IN MAY.
While visitors are attending the Royal Horti-
cultural Society's Show at Chelsea in almost
alarming numbers, only comparatively few find
CYTISUS PURGANS GROWING AMONG HARDY FERNS AT WISLEY.
must be protected, where sparrows are abundant, [
by black thread tightly stretched across the beds. ,
To the writer's eye, there is no more pleasing sight
in a garden than a bed of healthy Carnations at this
season. Timely and careful staking, and an assisting 1
sprinkling of manure, will bring the time of bloom- 1
ing along, generally a month earlier than that of j
layered plants ; and to examine the shapely
calyces morning after morning is a mingled
pleasure and exasperation — they are often so slow
in opening that it is almost impossible to keep
itching fingers from assisting in the revelation of |
self or flake, quaint bizarre or dainty Picotee,
their way to the society's beautiful Surrey
gardens at Wisley.
The Roclf Garden. — This is one of the more
recent additions at Wisley, and it is destined to
be one of the great features of these beautiful
gardens. Bright patches of colour crop up here
and there among huge boulders of rock, and the
whole scene appears like a mountain slope clothed
with richly coloured alpine flowers. There are
Saxifragas in endless variety. S. decipiens and
S. Wallacei make bright patches of white, while
S. Red Admiral and S. bathoniensis vie with
one another in brilliant red hues. The alpine
258
THE GARDEN.
[May 23, 1914.
Wallflowers in orange yellow tones make a pleasing
contrast to the Iberis and Arabis, which look
like drifts of snow in the distance. Aubrietias
in varying shades of purple, Arenarias and Violas
in variety also lend pleasing shades of colour
in the rock garden. Primula involucrata, too,
is lookiug very dainty under the shelter of a rocky
ledge, while in bright sunshine Gentians are
induced to open their flowers of steely blue far
more freely than they usually do in an English
garden. In damp and shady places the American
Wood Lily is flowering freely, while the moraine
is full of interesting gems, some of which promise
to flower well a little later on.
Flowering Shrubs. — Now that the Prunuses
are passing over, the Hawthorns, Lilacs and
Labiunums keep up a succession of blossom
among the trees and shrubs. Viburnums, too,
are very fine, and the same may be said of the
COLOURED PLATE.
PliATB 1494.
TWO NEW
''HEN in
w
NERINES.
flower, Nerines are
among the most beautiful of
all greenhouse bulbous plants.
Some of the flowers are of
beautiful art shades in colour,
and many of them when seen
in sunlight show a diamond-dust effect on the
petals which is truly exquisite. The varieties
Dainty Maid and Glory of Samia were shown
before the Royal Horticultural Society in October
last by Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden,
to whom we are indebted for the following par-
ticulars and for the flowers from which oiu: coloured
plate has been prepared. Both varieties were raised
by Messrs. Charles Smith and Sons of Guernsey.
temperature of 45° to 50°. The mistake which
is often made in growing them is that they are
given too much warmth. It is very important
that they should have an abundance of air and
light. The bulbs ought to be potted up in the
Slimmer in a compost of rich sandy loam with
a little charcoal, and when in growth should be
watered freely, a little liquid mantire being occa-
sionally given them. During the winter a free
foliage growth must be encouraged, and when
this begins to turn yellow in the spring the watering
should be suspended and the pots placed on a
warm, sunny shelf."
A BEAUTIFUL COLONY OF
PRIMULA JAPONICA IN THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S
GARDENS AT WISLEY.
Brooms, of which Cytisus purgans is unquestion-
ably one of the very best. This species has bright
golden yellow flowers, and it is said to be one of
the parents of C. precox, the other supposed
parent being C. albus. The Azalea garden is now
a perfect mass of colour in warm tones of orange,
yellows and fiery reds. There are no other flowers
that can vie with Azaleas for colour effect.
In the Wild Garden.— The greatest charm of
these gardens we leave until the last. It is the
wild garden, preserved in much the same form
as it was in the days of Mr. G. F. Wilson, the late
owner. Here may be seen Primula japonica in
tens of thousands under the shade of trees and
clothing the banks of a small stream. Our illus-
tration shows a winding pathway through the
woodland with a wealth of flower on either side.
On another page will be found a reference to
the Tulip trials at Wisley.
" The parentage of Dainty Maid is Nerine
crispa (seed parent) x N. Fothergillii (pollen
parent). It is a very elegant and delicately
coloured variety, growing 16 inches high and
having an umbel of flowers measiuring 5 inches
across. The floral segments are narrow and
prettily undulated, and of a delicate flesh colour.
The parentage of Glory of Samia is N. coruscans
major (seed-bearing parent) x N. Fothergillii
major (pollen parent). This is a most brilliantly
coloured variety, producing umbels of medium-
sized flowers, and with prettily recurved and undu-
lating floral segments ; colour, lustrous fiery
orange scarlet, having the appearance of being
bespangled with gold ; height, 16J inches. This
plant received an award of merit from the Royal
Horticultural Society.
" With regard to culture, these Nerines are
easily grown in a cool greenhouse having a winter
RAISING NEW ROSES.
[In Answer to a Correspondent.]
We are glad you find The Garden so interesting-
It must be a great joy to yourself to read of what
others are doing, even though deprivedl
by sickness from entering into the
work more fuUy yomrself. If you have
a small greenhouse, you could produce
some seedling Roses, for it is very
simple, and although you could not
carry out the work upon scientific lines
as do the great raisers, yet there would
be a rich fund of pleasure accruing
even from a small effort. The novel-
ties are raised from seeds produced
under glass. Established plants are
made to bloom about March and
April, and their flowers cross-fertilised.
Suppose you desired to obtain a cross
between, say, Willowmere — which we
may illustrate during the summer —
and Rayon d'Or, you would contrive
to have these two Roses in bloom at
the same time. Before the flower of
Willowmere had developed, 5'ou would
remove all the petals, then cut away
the stamens before the pollen grains
burst. These pollen grains are con-
tained in the stamens, as you doubt-
less know. The flower would then
have its pistils remaining. Upon these
pistils the pollen would be transferred
by a camel-hair brush from the de-
veloped flower of Rayon d'Or, and
in coiurse of time the fruit, seed-pod
or hep would appear. This is allowed
to hang upon the plant until ripe,
that is, imtil it turns yellow or
red, whichever the case may be,
for these fruits of the Rose assume
remarkable colomrs and shapes,
some appearing like miniature ripe Jargonelle
Pears, others round like miniature Tomatoes.
When the fruits or heps are ripe, they are placed in
damp sand, and at Christmas the seeds are taken
out and sown in pots or boxes. Sometimes one
pod or hep contains as many as thirty seeds,
and if all of these germinated they would most
probably all be different, some worthless, others
perhaps superior to either parent, for, you see,
there is always an element of chance. One may
produce a really startling novelty from just a pod
or two, or one may sow thousands of seeds and
not obtain a novelty of merit. But we view the
matter from the same point as the late Lord
Penzance, who raised the Penzance Briars. He said
that if the novelties were not of very great merit,
they at least gave their raisers varieties no one
else possessed, and to have such growing in one's
garden must add greatly to its charm.
Supple)iieiit to THE GARDEN, May iiird, 1914
TWO BEAUTIFUL NERINES
Pink: Dainty Maid.
Scarlet : Glory of Sarnia.
Hudson -S; Kctirns, Ltd., London, S.B.
May 23, 1914.
THE GARDEN.
259
REVIEW OF THE
SPRING SHOW AT CHELSEA.
EQUALLY as good in quality and
far better arranged than the
International Show of 1912
aptly describes the great spring
exhibition of the Royal Horti-
cultural Society which opened
at the Chelsea Hospital Grounds on
Tuesday last. This year the Large Tent,
covering an area of over two acres,
is devoted to groups arranged"'on the
floor, so that visitors have
ample room to walk between
them and admire the
flowers. This is an im-
provement on the last show,
when the tables in this tent
were too close together and
the gangways too narrow,
with the result that visitors
had considerable difficulty
in moving about. The
ventilation of all the tents,
too, has been considerably
improved, and it is evident
that the Council are making
efforts to study the con-
venience of visitors.
Outdoors, rock and for-
mal gardens abound. In
many instances these leave
little to be desired, good
taste, both in planning and
planting, being evident. In
a few instances, however,
there seems to have been a
peculiar lack of restraint
in the use of stone. One
would have thought that
the enormous expense of
conveying many tons of
stone to an exhibition
would have had the effect
of keeping this in its proper
proportions. We hope
the day will never arrive
when this great show will
more closely resemble a
stone-mason's yard than a
series of natural gardens.
In surveying these rock
and formal gardens we were
rather at a loss to under-
stand the curious mixtures
of natural gardens and
artificial displays that the
Council have tolerated. We
cannot conceive anything less gratifying
to the mind or eye than well-designed
rock gardens cheek by jowl with glaring
white and gold pillars and teak-wood
seats. This indiscriminate letting of sites
for sundries is not to the ultimate advan-
tage of the society, though the pecuniary
reward at the moment may be a considera-
tion. The tea tent, also, necessary as it
was, could surely have been more appro-
priately situated than between two sets of
rock gardens. Red and white striped canvas
does not harmonise with grey linae-stone.
Queen Alexandra graciously visited the
FORMAL GARDENS.
The formal gardens are not numerous, but by
introducing a pliase constitutes a most interesting
show on Tuesday morning, and spent \ feature.
a considerable time in admiring the
flowers. So far as we could gather, on the
opening day visi^^c-s were more numerous
than ever, and it is evident that interest
in horticulture is still on the upward
QUEEN ALEXANDRA AT
In this department Messrs. Thomas Crowther
and Sons, 282, North End Road, Fulham, S.W.,
have a display of old garden furniture, hammered
iron gates, lead vases, temples and the hke, some
of whic 1 are liighly ornamental and beautiful.
Messrs. Joseph Cheal and Sons,
Crawley, have a formal garden
in which a general garden scheme
is adopted, shrub borders, rock-
work and alpines. Rhododendron
banks and Azalea borders, Rose
temple, arches, pergolas, paved
ways, stone walls, Yew and
other hedges being among the
eatures introduced.
Messrs. Carter and Co., Raynes
Park, S.W., have a particularly
attractive garden, with Tudor
summer - house in Horsecombe
stone facing, stone dovecote, paved
ways, dolphin fountain and basin,
with Water Lilies, octagonal
summer-house and other dis-
tinct features. The Rhodo-
dendron borders are a blaze of
colour, the variety Pink Pearl
making a iine sliow. The paved
pathways, stone walls and roofs
of the summer-houses are all
suitably planted with Stonecrop,
Houseleek and other plants.
The Wistarias are very beau-
tiful.
The formal garden arranged by
Messrs. Wallace and Co., Col-
chester, is well conceived and
admirably executed. The beau-
tiful garden-house in Horsecombe
stone, roofed with similar mate-
rial, is delightful in its natural-
ness, the Norman style leaving
nothing to be desired. In its
way it is unique. The whole
arrangement is encompassed by
low stone walls, Box and other
hedges, while stone steps and
paved ways are as natural
as could be. Within the
walls are borderings of Flag
Irises, which in their quiet
tones beneath the shade of
In the pages that follow will be trees are delightful in the extreme. Tulip'
borders are also a strong feature, while a well-
kept lawn adds to the quiet and beauty of the
whole.
That arranged by Messrs. Pulham and Son»-
71, Newman Street, W., comprises a sunk garden)
with imposing fountain basin, seats, sundials>-
vases, pergola, balustrades, seats and the like-
The " bird bath " is a feature here, and attracts'
THE OPENING
AT CHELSEA.
OF THE SPRING SHOW
grade
found a review of all that is best in this
really wonderful exhibition. In the pre-
paration of this Special Number we have
been greatly assisted by the officials of
the society, especially the Rev. W. Wilks,
Mr. S. T. Wright and Mr. Frank Reader,
Without their assistance it would have been
impossible to have published an illustrated
report of the show in so short a time.
largely. In addition, there are grey borders.-.
260
THE GARDEN.
[May 23, 1914.
■• -■ -f
SKETCH PLAN OF MESSRS. R. WALLACE AND CO.'S GARDEN HOUSE.
with others of scented shrubs, Lavender, Rose-
mary and the like. This exhibit is worthy of
study.
IMessrs. Piper, Bayswater and Barnes, have
what they call a Wistaria garden, a circular
arrangement, in which several flights of stone
steps with their accompanying balustrades appear.
The paved ways are lightly planted with vegetable
life ; the coping of the balustrades bedecked with
an ample display of old, well-flowered examples
of Wistaria, which are charmingly flowered.
The whole idea is original and good, only requiring
time to give it the requisite tone.
The Yokohama Nursery Company, Limited
(Yokohama, London and New York), Craven House,
Kingsway, have near the Lime Avenue a very
pretty arrangement, into which all things Japanese
enter — Japanese tea house, temple garden and
temple lanterns, dwarfed trees, Wistarias and the
like. The latter are very beautiful, well flowered
and highly decorative.
ROCK GARDENS.
With the great International Show of a couple
of years ago still fresh in the mind, it might savour
of the absurd to say that rock gardening has
never been seen in such excellence as that
now on view at the Chelsea Hospital Grounds.
At the same time it may be said with truth that
on no former occasion has greater general excel-
lence prevailed, or that better taste or skill has
been displayed in its execution. In a word
while the rock gardening star is obviously in the
ascendant, there are also signs — the outcome of
knowledge born of experience — of more studious
and thoughtful work, and that phase of it in
particular which, rendering such exhibits sugges-
tive as a whole, also make repetitions of them
possible in many gardens to-day. To have
achieved so much is the highest aim of any exhi-
bition ; to bring to a high state of perfection
is to excel. That, indeed, is the position of rock
gardening to-day, and the two or three dozen
exhibitors who have ranged their skill and dis-
played their taste side by side near the Embank-
ment merit all praise.
Taking them in order of position, we first come
upon a well-executed piece of work of 1,000 square
feet or so arranged by Messrs. Waterer, Sons and
Crisp, Bagshot and Twyford. Here prettily
colonised and grouped we find many good things,
more particularly the rare Phlox Douglasii,
Arenarla juniperina, white Thymus subcitratus
parviflora, Campanula Allionii with rich purple
bells, Pentstemon Bridgesii, Lewisia oppositifolia,
Mazus reptans (a true carpeter covered with
flowers not more than an inch high), many choice
Primulas, alpine Phloxes and the like. The whole
is executed in the Derbyshire limestone, and
rendered pleasing and effective.
In the adjoining group from Messrs. Garnet
and Co., Farley, near Leeds, the showier kinds
prevail, masses of Phloxes, Aubrietias and the
like, with Ourisia coccinea, Oxalis enneaphylla.
Primula frondosa and others.
Bakers, Wolverhampton, are responsible for
a well-conceived arrangement in which the larger
rock groups are finely displayed. Some excellent
crevice planting is also noted in this exhibit,
with the dainty-leaved Japanese Maples playing
a good part. The finer groups of things, and
these rich in effect, are composed of Incarvillea
brevipes, Tiarella unifuliata, Achillea rupestris.
Saxifrages Codsall Cream and Miss Willmott,
Cheiranthus Allionii, C. Warley Bronze (quite
a distinct plant), Lithospermum intermedium and
Daphne Cneorum.
That arranged by Messrs. Whitelegg and Page,
Chislehurst, is particularly good and effective as
well as spacious, a charmingly arranged miniature
ravine constituting a great attraction. The sides
of this will be found teeming with Ramondias,
and higher up on rocky ledges the Edelweiss
with Oxalis enneaphylla. In freer masses else-
where will be found Phloxes, Saxifraga longifolia
latifolia, Primula Unique Yarm variety, P.
cockbumiana, P. Unique Improved and P. cortusa
villosa. Viola J. S. Martin (V. gracilis x V.
bosniaca) is presenting a rich array of purple
colour ; while above all and in the wood beyond
Irises and other plants are to be seen naturalised.
Messrs. T. S. Ware, Limited, Feltham, have
done much excellent work mth their allotted
600 square feet, and employ the Surrey sand-
stone to good effect. Their finer colour masses
are made up of Aquilegia glandulosa (blue),
Potentilla pyrenaica (rich golden), Tiarella cordi-
folia (cream), Viola pedata bicolor, Ramondias
and Lithospermum Heavenly Blue. .Among choice
things will be noted Astilbe simplicifolia,
Androsace primuloides, Haberleas and Lewisia
Cotyledon, which is very charming. There will
also be noticed a capital lot of hardy Cypripediums
associated with Ferns in a cool and sheltered place.
Altogether a highly attractive exhibit.
Mr. Maurice Prichard, Christchurch, has a
well arranged rock, using Cheddar stone, ot
which there are many excellent specimens.
Associated with this, the choice plants employed
appear'/'delightful in the extreme. Some of those
to be sought out include Heeria elegans (of which
there is a fine rosy mass), Silene pusilla (white,
very dwarf), Arenaria verna plena, Oxalis ennea-
phj'lla rosea, Scutellaria indica japonica (blue),
Gentiana verna, a fine lot of Primula Lissadell
Hybrid, the rare fringed flowers of Schizocodon
soldanelloides, Saxifraga cajsia pracox (a large-
flowered early form), witli choice masses of Mimulus
radicans, Asperula athoea and the like. Cypri-
pediums and dwarf Ferns are charmingly associated.
Adjoining this, Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent
Garden, W.C, have a capital piece of work, using
the Cheddar limestone with good effect. At the
moment of our inspection the brightest-coloured
mass was seen in a grouping of Oxalis brasiliensis,
while among other notable things the Peacock
Iris (so-called), I. cristata, I. gracillipes, the rare
Calochortus on sunny slopes, Viola pedata,
Cheiranthus Allionii, C. mutabilis and Heli-
chrysum bellidioides are all worth seeking.
Dodecatheons, Sarracenias, Cypripediums, Primu-
las, Orchises and other suitable subjects associated
with water are also pleasingly grouped.
On a bolder scale, by reason of employing
larger rock masses and ascending to greater
heights, Messrs. Pulham and Son, Broxbourne
and Elsenham, have a pii turesque piece of work
in Derbyshire limeslone, the interspersing paths
paved with York stone slabs in irregular rect-
angular and crazy mosaic form. .A bold waterfall
May 23, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
261
and streamlet are also effectively executed with
suitable groupings of Ferns, Ceanothus, Epi-
mediums, Gunnera, Leiophyllum buxifolium,
Meconopsis and iiowery masses of Daphne
Cneorum.
Messrs. Wallace and Co., Colchester, have one
of the largest stations and have arranged a highly
meritorious exhibit, the design, as also the fine
selected stone, attracting immediate attention.
The plants here are almost bewildering in their
variety by reason of the way that every crack,
cranny or crevice is charged with its quota of
alpine vegetation. Perched high will be found
the Edelweiss, or jutting out from some rocky
crevice such things as Saxifraga cochlearis, S,
Aizoon or S. cochlearis minor. In freer groupings
will be found Onosmas, Viola pedata. Campanula
Stevenii nana, Saxifraga Dr. Ramsay, S. Cotyledon
and the like. Then the spreading tufts of Heli-
chrysum bellidioides, Lithospermum, and Saxifraga
Aizoon lutea are worth seeking, while, anon, trails
of the royal purple bells of Edraianthus serpylli-
folium major will be found or tufts of Iris
gracillipes. To make the exhibit comprehensive
and complete, a pretty water-course has been
formed with Primulas and Ferns in cool and shade.
The association of shrub and rock is very good
and quite worth noting.
On the opposite side of the Drive the Misses
Hopkins, Shepperton-on-Thames, have a compact,
prettily arranged exhibit of rock and alpine plants.
Here will be found the alpine Phloxes, Houstonias,
Primula sikkimensis, Lithospermum Heavenly
Blue, many choice Saxifrages, the rich blue of the
alpine Columbine, Veronicas and other good
things.
The Guildford Hardy Plant Nursery has an
excellent exhibit of rockwork, employing the
Godalming sandstone with good eiiect. The stone
is well fashioned and suited for the purpose, and,
moreover, like all other sandstones, is sympathetic
to plant-life. The firm is using many choice
plants, some of the more conspicuous being Semper-
vivum rubricundum, Cheiranthus mutabilis pur-
pureus, Erpetion reniforme, Viola cucullata (very
fine), Linum capitatum (yellow), Dianthus
arvemensis (a very choice alpine Pink), and the
like. Showier things, as Geum rivale Leonard's
variety. Phlox Laphami and Heucheras, are good,
though the visitor must not omit Onosmas,
Oxalis enneaphylla, Parochetus communis, and
the charming effect which Sempervivum Laggeri
rubrum is producing.
Mr. Clarence Elliott, Stevenage, has a nicely
executed piece of work near the entrance, using in
plenty the freer-flowering masses of things, while
garnishing crack and cranny in all directions
with the choicer morsels. Of those which cannot
fail to appeal are Helianthus rosmarinifolius
(white), Oxalis enneaphylla rosea, a fine mass of
Iris cristata, Pentstemon Davisonii, P. Roezli,
the pretty red-flowered Dianthus squarrosa and
Daphne Cneorum. Shrubs and dwarf conifers
are well placed amid finely selected Cheddar
limestone.
Messrs. Kent and Brydon, Darlington, are
employing Westmorland limestone with good
effect, and associating with it Primula buUeyana,
Wahlenbergia serpyllifolia, Campanula AUionii,
Ledum palustris, Trilliums in splendid form.
Anemone sylvestris, Lithospermum graminifolium
and others. A miniature alpine meadow and bog
garden are also features to be noted.
Mr. G. Reuthe, Kestou, Kent, has also arranged
a very delightful exhibit, delightful in the sense
of choice and rare, that ever appeals to the
specialist. Haberlea Ferdinandii - Coburgii is
here. It is finer and better than the old form.
Diplopappus pedunculatus with violet flowers is
rare and good ; Leontopodium lindarvianum is
a new species of Edelweiss, ^Ethropappus pulcher-
rimus is a new alpine Thistle, while such as Cypri-
pediums in variety, Mertensia primuloides, Linum
alpinum (blue). Gentians, Silene Hookeri, Sisy-
rinchium bermudianum (fine blue mass) and
Primula Unique Yarm variety will all be found in
excellent condition. Polygonum sphaerostachyum
is in capital colour.
Very choice and good is the rockwork exhibit
set up by Messrs. Tucker and Sons, Oxford, the
firm employing the limestone of their own locality,
which is both ornamental and good. This exhibit
teems with choice things, and much time might be
spent among them. Quite among the best are
Daphne alpina, Tanaksa radicans, Dianthus
callizonus, Eryngium glaciale, the true Saxifraga
valdensis (which is also in flower). Phlox Douglasii,
Pratia Arenaria, Silene Hookeri, S. Veselesky
(a choice morsel in white). Campanula Allionii,
Daphne rupestris. Origanum Dictamnus, with
Sempervivum rubricundum, S. arachnoideum
rubrum and S. a. Laggeri, are all worth seeking out.
The excellent exhibit arranged by Mr. J. Wood,
Boston Spa, Yorkshire, represents as a whole a
bit of Yorkshire fell land, the stone grey York-
shire mountain limestone supporting its own
mnss and such British wildings as Thymus
Serpj'llum, Sedum anglicum and the like. These
are augmented by the choicer alpine plants. Snap-
dragons, Forget-me-nots, Poteniillas, Himalayan
Poppies, Primulas, Saxifrages, Phloxes and other
plants galore. The foreground of the arrange-
ments in effect represents an alpine meadow, in
which the choicest alpine plants. Primulas,
Orchises and others are seen. Then, in the
characteristic drift-like form in which this rock
appears in Nature, we see Nature adorned,
improved, as it were, by the master's art. Crevice
and cranny and fissure ctrc freely planted with
Ramondias, Haberlea, and Pyrenean Rockfoil
(Saxifraga longifolia), whose great, hoary rosettes
are very telling. In the driest places, Semper-
vivum tomentosum looks at its best, a great
stretch of Saxifraga Aizoon rosea representing this
plant finely. The pretty American Pine Barren
(Pyxidanthera barbulata), spangled with white
flowers, is very charming. Anon, a Fern-
planted gully is very cool-looking, while in
plenty appear the choicest Primulas, with rivulet
and tiny pond, while high above all, suggestive
of distance, towered, as it were, the dwarfer Pines,
mirroring into life a very beautiful whole.
Another fine rock garden exhibit in the open is
that of Messrs. Piper, Bayswater and Barnes, in
which some thirty tons of selected Cheddar stone
are employed. The general arrangement is that
of raised mounds, with bays, ravines, and outcrop
rock from turfy banks appearing in excellent
fashion, the latter throwing into fuller relief the
grey colour of the adjacent rocks. In every way it
is an excellent piece of work. The general plant-
ing idea is that of free drifts, the natural bent of
the rocks being duly considered. In this way
such things as Ramondias, the great silvery
Pyrenean Rockfoil, Daphne Cneorum, Fabiana
imbricata, Erinus, Stachys Corsica, Phlox Lap], ami,
Viola Golden Wave, Saxifraga Aizoon rosea, Pratia
Arenaria and Scutellaria indica japonica are seen.
Of shrubs, Cotoneaster congesta, with Pinus
Cembra above, are noticeable.
Under canvas there is also to be found many
choice contributions to the alpine section. Here
will be found Messrs. Bees, Limited, Liverpool,
who are staging many choice plants of recent
introduction. Of these Roscoea cautloides,
Primula secundiflora, Oxalis adenophylla. Primula
augustidens, P. japonica Gamett Bee, Potentilla
fruticosa nana argentea, Lewisia Howellii and,
perhaps rarest of all, Didissandria amabile, a new
Chinese alpine, with erect bell-shaped, creamy
flowers on a short inflorescence above woolly
Ourisia-like leaves. It is a remarkably pretty
plant.
VIEW IN MESSRS. J. CARTER AND CO.'S FORMAL GARDEN.
262
THE GARDEN.
[May 23. 1914.
ROCK GARDEN EXHIBITED BY MESSRS. R. WALLACE AND CO.
Messrs. Backhouse and Sons, York, have a
table exhibit of alpines with rockwork in miniatiire.
Here will be fovind not a few of the choicer plants —
Orchis foliosa, Trilliums, Primula secundiflora,
Iris cristata, Ramondias, Gentiana vema, Ledums
buxifolium and polifolium, Onosmas, Dendromecon
rigidum, Edraianthus serpyllifolium major,
Viola bosiuaca, Oxalis enneaphylla and other
good plants. The exhibit is very daintily arranged.
The Lissadell Primulas from Sligo are very good,
and choice hybrids and improvements abound.
This is a very bright-looking lot.
In another direction Sir Everard Hambro,
K.C.V.O., Hayes Place, Kent, has a fine setting
of choice alpines amid plumes of the bolder
Saxifrages, S. Cotyledon and S. longifolia forms
more particularly. The white, faintly spotted
plumes of these rise in their dozens, while con-
stituting the groundwork are some of the choicest
morsels of alpine vegetation ; for example,
Erinacea pungens, the finest example we have
seen, full of dainty mauve Pea-shaped flowers on
a tiny bush 6 inches high. It is a gem. Dianthus
alpinus, D. subacaulis. Primula Unique, Lewasia
Howellii, Phyteuma comosum, Jankea Heldreichii,
Haberleas, the brilliant red-flowered Pentstemon
Davisonii, Heeria elegans, Silene Hookeri and
Oxalis enneaphylla rosea are some to be searched
for.
Mr. H. Hemsley, Crawley, has a miscellaneous
lot of alpines and a new race of alpine Snap-
dragons.
The Ightham Alpine Plant Nursery is staging
Violetta Slieve Donna, a charming alpine, in which
the firm are specialisers.
ROSES.
The Chelsea Show without Roses would be shorn
of much of its splendour, and although, generally
speaking, we have seen finer individual blooms,
yet one must admit that there are some very
meritorious groups. Each recurring year accen-
tuates our indebtedness to the Rambler and
Polyantha sections for spectacular effect, and the
grand pot-gro\vn specimens show us what can be
done with such Roses when suitably planted
outdoors. There is this much about the Chelsea
Show : one is not painfully reminded of cramped
space as was the case at the Temple, and exhibitors
take full advantage of the improved conditions
to display their productions to the best advantage.
One or two glaring examples of clashing groups
are evident, especially the placing of a huge mass
of Zonal Pelargoniums between the two fine groups
of Roses put up by Messrs. W. Paul and Son
and Messrs. Hobbies, the glare of the Pelargoniums
absolutely marring the beautiful effect of the
Roses.
From a decorative point of view, nothing is
better done than the group of Messrs. W. Cutbush
and Sons, Highgate. This consists entirely of
Rambler and Polyantha Roses. A splendid
central column of Dorothy Perkins has a ground-
work of the gorgeous Polyantha Ema Teschendorff.
Then there are mounds of Polyanthas of such
sorts as Jeanne d'Arc, Maman Turbat, Jessie.
Mrs. Cutbush, Orleans, and Ellen Poulsen, with a
contrasting and well-flowered weeping Rose
emerging from the mound. As a groimdwork for
the group there are some hundreds of plants of
the dainty Baby Tausendschon, whose correct
name is Louise Walter. We also noticed a good
yellow Polyantha in George Elgar.
Messrs. W. Paul and Son, as usual, make a grand
display. Their Ramblers are excellently flowered.
In this group are some fine plants of Sodenia, a
very valuable new Rambler, a few shades deeper
than Lady Gay. Kalmia is also a pretty novelty,
of a colour resembhng the shrub whose name it
bears. The new White Tausendschon is fine,
also Ethel, a very dainty shade of pink.
Millicent, a new Rambler, is a large double flower,
but of rather a dull, uninteresting colour.
Probably outdoors this dulness would disappear ;
if so, it wiU be a good addition. Of the large-
flowered Hybrid Teas, Mrs. Charles Hunter is
fine, also Portia, Opheba, J. L. Mock, Mrs. A.
Hammond, Margaret, Farbenkonigin, Simburst
(fine blooms, but very pale colour), Mrs. W. Christie
MiUer, Entente Cordiale and Souv. de Gustave
Prat.
Messrs. George Paul and Son, Cheshunt, have put
up a splendid group, but we have seen them show
much better. One must not lose sight of the fact
that the weather this spring has been excep-
tionally trying for pot Roses. Fine pillars of
American Pillar, Hiawatha, Lady Godiva and
White Dorothy are in this group, with splendid
weepers such as Minnehaha, Eisenach, Hiawatha,
and Lady Blanche, a very pure white. Standards
of King George V., Leslie HoUand, Niphetos,
and Mme. J. Dupuy are tastefully set among
masses of the best Hybrid Teas. Among these we
noted a fine batch of Freda (a grand pot Rose,
with fine deep flowers), Florence Pemberton,
Magnolia (wonderfully long buds). Lady A.
Stanley, Cherry Ripe, Othello (a grand colour),
Mrs. A. R. Waddell, Lady Q. Ewart, Sunburst
V
THE ROCK GARDEN SHOWN BY MESSRS. PULHAM AND SONS.
May 2j, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
263
(bere also very pale), Comte G. de Rochmauer
(a fine new red), Rayon d'Or, Lady Pirrie, Rene
Wilmart Urban, G. Grunerwald, G. C. Waud,
Queen of Spain and many others.
Mr. George Prince, Longworth, has made a brave
display with some excellent Ramblers, well
flowered and o£ elegant shape. We noticed among
the great variety of Ramblers a fine new sort
named Chatillon, a Rose larger than Dorothy
Perkins, and a most e.^iquisite shade of light pink.
Among the choice collection of cut blooms to be
seen are some of the beautiful Mrae. Edouard
Herriot, a Rose whose wonderful colouring is sure
to make it a popular favourite.
Messrs. G. Mount and Sons, Canterbury, are
making a most sumptuous show — one of the best
in the whole exhibition. A splendid background
of Crimson Ramblers, such as Excelsa and Hiawatha,
lend a very rich glow to the group, and this gives
a fine array of colour and serves to bring out
the snowy purity of the lovely Frau Karl Druschki,
grown as the firm only can grow it under glass .
Delightful masses of Sunburst, Richmond, Mrs.
John Laing, Mrs. Sharman Crawford and the
superb Mrs. George Shawyer are here seen in
large quantities of really exhibition blooms.
Other popular sorts well represented are Lady
Pirrie, Melanie Soupert, Mrs. F. Straker, Lady
Battersea, Mrs. Charles Hunter, Joseph Lowe,
Liberty, and Mrs. A. R. Waddell, the whole edged
by well-flowered dwarf pot plants of the Perpetual
Crimson Rambler.
Messrs. Low and Co., Enfield, have a group
of Roses with other subjects. The Roses are
lightly arranged and are beautifully relieved with
Acer Negundo variegata and variegated Euonymus.
Some fine specimens of Excelsa, Dorothy Perkins,
Blush Rambler and Tausendschon are exhibited
as pillars, wliile well-flowered weepers of Hiawatha
and Newport Fairy portray these fine sorts to
perfection.
A very tastefully arranged group comes from
Mr. Charles Turner, Slough. There are grand
weepers of Dorothy Perkins, Lady Godiva, White
Dorothy, Lady Gay and Ethel (a very lovely new
rambler all should plant), and there are also fine
groups of Orleans Rose, Annie Miiller, Jessie and
Mrs. Cutbush, besides standard Teas and Hybrid
Teas, the whole well toned down by Japanese
Maples and Ferns. In the superb group of flower-
ing shrubs we noted a fine specimen of Rosa
Hugonis, doubtless grown outdoors, for it is now
blossoming outside with us.
Strangely, among all the rock garden exhibits
we did not see any Roses represented. Surely
this was an omission, for there are some lovely
gems, such as R. Malyi, now opening outdoors
that make beautiful rock subjects.
Messrs. Hobbies, Limited, Dereham, put up two
groups in their own inimitable style, with arched
walks well clothed with Ramblers, and huge baskets
of Polyantha Roses, many of them of the firm's own
raising. Among these we saw Baby Elegance
(a dear little Rose that will be largely wanted),
Meadowsweet and Dewdrop, all being interesting
additions to this popular class. Cut blooms of
the leading Roses are tastefully arranged on stems,
and these include the wonderful Mme. E. Herriot (of
grand colouring). Countess of Shaftesbury, Willow-
mere, Sunburst, Lady Hillingdon, Mrs. A. Ward,
Melanie Soupert, and Marquise de Sinety, alto-
gether a delightful group. We must not forget
to mention Efiective, one of the most fragrant
Roses, and a variety of better colour when grown
outdoors.
Messrs. Burch, Peterborough, have a nice little
lot, chiefly in show boxes, representing most of
the leading varieties.
Messrs. Frank Cant and Co., Braiswick Nursery,
Colchester, have one of the best arranged groups
among the cut-flower exhibits. There is a
delightful airiness in the whole display that cannot
fail to charm visitors, and they should see this
group before it fades. A beautiful new Rambler
is Braiswick Charm, an almost perpetual variety,
reminding one of Alberic Barbier, but the flowers
are produced in larger clusters. It is also very
sweet. Hercules is a most sweetly fragrant
Hybrid Tea of merit, and of a lovely peach pink-
shade, and very double with cupped form. The
Ramblers and short standard Roses are grand,
the latter being of the variety Jessie, perhaps the
best to grow in this form. The cut blooms are of
special quality, some quite medal blooms, and of
the best we noted Mrs. Walter Easlea (a fine, big
flower, of deUcious fragrance), George Dickson
(grand), Mrs. Muir McKean, Mrs. A. Coxhead,
Melody, Mrs. J. Welch, Lady Roberts, Juliet, &c.,
so freely, it will be possible for every grower to
have new sorts, but unless hybridised it is doubtful
if we shall obtain anything superior to those
now grown, although there is always a chance
of getting a good thing.
Messrs. R. J. Barnes and Son, Malvern, are
showing American Pillar very finely, also Rayon
d'Or as cut blooms. These are very good.
Messrs. A. Dickson and Sons, Newtownards,
have some of their superb novelties. What a
beauty is Chrissie McKellar, a glorious garden
Rose of most enchanting tints ! Red Letter Day
is a grand mass of colour, and Killarney Brilliant
splendid. One bloom of Mrs. Bryce Allan portrays
a real gem, and for fragrance we know of nothing
equal to it. A beautiful seedling reminds us
of Marquise de Sinety and Sunburst, and will be
warmly welcomed when sent out. Lady Dunleath,
Carine, Irish Fireflame and Mrs. S. T. Wright
are also grandly exhibited.
Messrs. B. R. Cant and Sons have a most delight-
ful array, and one could almost imagine one were
at the National Rose Show in July, so sumptuju
■ 1 '' ?*''"J§?^%^itW^^' r
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'"Vi^iKi
STRATIFIED LIMESTONE TASTEFULLY ARRANGED BY MESSRS. WHITELEGG AND PAGE.
while such lovely singles as Rosa sinica Anemone,
Austrian Copper and Austrian Yellow are well
represented.
Mr. E. J. Hicks, Twyford, has a very lovely
group, in which we noted Mrs. E. Alford, a glorified
Mme. Abel Chatenay. If this Rose grows well
outdoors it may supersede that grand old Rose,
but it will have to be of superior habit to do this.
Lady Hillingdon, Mrs. G. Shawyer and Richmond
are also fine, weU set ofi by masses of Erna
Teschendorff, Mme. E. Herriot and Orleans Rose.
Messrs. H. B. May and Sons, Edmonton, have
Roses represented among their other subjects,
these chiefly of the Rambler and Polyantha
sections.
A new Polyantha is shown by Messrs. Munch
and Haage. It is named Betsy Van Nes, and is
said to be a red Mrs. W. H. Cutbush, and may
probably supersede Jessie outside, although as
shown we did not think much of it.
Mr. J. Crouch, Lower Edmonton, exhibited
several seedling Polyanthas, but none of them
superior to existing lands. As these Roses seed
is the variety and superb the quality. The
ramblers are splendidly flowered, and among these
Goldfinch, American Pillar, Lady Godiva and
Silver Moon are grand. Fine masses of Lady
Reay, Mme. Edouard Herriot, Mme. A. Chatenay,
Mrs. H. Stevens, Lady Hillingdon, Elizabeth,
Molly Sharman Crawford, Austrian Copper,
Duchess of Wellington, Claudius, St. Helena, &c.,
are also shown.
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE
PLANTS.
Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, excel on
this occasion, staging a particularly handsome
and attractive exhibit in the centre of the Large
Tent. This exhibit consists of five large beds —
four corner ones and a circular bed in the centre!
As a whole this display makes a complete garden
in itself. Their excellent strain of Cinereiria
stellata is one of the chief features, the colours
and form of the flowers leaving nothing to be
desired. The Schizanthuses are really superb,
264
THE GARDEN.
[May
1914-
the beautiful tones of colour represented in the
Reading strain of these plants being charmingly
varied and attractive. Primula obconica has
never been better shown. The splendid quality
of the plants and their beautiful and varied colours
show how great has been their development.
Of herbaceous Calceolarias, too much cannot well
be said in praise of their beautiful condition
great show and of the name of Messrs. James
Carter and Co., who have done so much for these
flowers.
Groups 39, 40 and 43 in the Large Tent are
represented by a series of beautiful plants from
Messrs. Webb and Sons, Wordsley, Stourbridge.
The plants are arranged in bold and striking
form, rising to a height of about eight feet.
GROUP OF ROSES SHOWN BY MESSRS. WILLIAM PAUL, WALTHAM CROSS.
and their superb quality. Intermediate tones
of colour are conspicuously good, and the plants
are in the pink of condition. The centre bed
is filled with Clarkias and an edging of Cineraria
Reading Gem, the latter being a plant midway
between the ordinary type and C. stellata. Stocks,
Nicotianas, Phloxes and Alonsoas are also
extremely well done, the plants representing
strains of the highest excellence. A finish to
this great exhibit of Ferns and other foliage plants
makes one of the most attractive floral treats of
the show. In another part of the Large Tent
a beautiful group of Clarkias from this firm
is a most commendable display.
Another very wonderful display is made by
Messrs. James Carter and Co. On entering
the Large Tent from the Embankment entrance
the visitor is face to face with a wonderfully
comprehensive and beautiful series of groups of
greenhouse flowers. The plants are in the pink
of condition, each subject being represented by
flowers of the best, the colours also being
very good. A great circular bank of Cineraria
stellata and Cactus varieties, surmounted by a
beautiful Palm, is the central feature of this
wonderful display, and this is surrounded by
other circular moimds of Empress EUzabeth
(rose pink) and White Queen (pure white) Ten-
week Stocks, Gloxinias (Invincible Prize), Calceo-
larias (Victoria Prize), Petimias (Queen of Roses,
Purple Prince, Crimson King and White Pearl),
Schizanthus (large-flowered Butterfly varieties),
Clarkia elegans in exceptionally good form and
remarkable for their very high colouring, large-
flowered Cinerarias (Brilliant Prize), handsome
Streptocarpuses and Nemesias (Orange Prince),
which all combine to make an exhibit worthy of this
Herein are displayed beautiful examples of their
superb strains of large-flowered Cinerarias and
well-grown, freely flowered examples of the steUata
and Cactus forms of these free-flowering plants.
Schizanthuses are also well done, their compact
hybrid retusus and pinnatus forms all being most
attractive. Exhibition Gloxinias are well repre-
sented, and double-flowered Begonias are also
in good form and condition. Not the least inter-
esting are the representatives of Primula obconica
and P. malacoides. Superb aptly describes the
large-flowered herbaceous Calceolarias, the flowers
being pleasingly varied. Hybrid Streptocarpuses,
Nemesia strumosa and single Clarkias are a trio
of beautiful plants deserving notice, and the choice
seedling Amaryllis add a glorious piece of
colouring to this fine exhibit. Petunias, both
double and single flowered sorts, are attractive,
as are the Ten-week Stocks. With Grevillea,
robust Ferns and other foliage plants a pretty
finish is given to this magnificent display.
Mr. Philip Ladds, Swanley Junction, Kent,
displays a bright and highly attractive group
of Zonal Pelargoniums, Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums,
Fuchsias, Heliotropes, show and fancy Pelar-
goniums and magnificent Hydrangeas. Mme.
Moullifere, the new large white variety, has never
been seen in better form and condition, and
Hortensis is also well shown to contrast with
the new white sort above mentioned. With
Maidenhair and other Ferns a beautiful
is given to this large group, which is
successfully set up in undulating fashion.
Zonal Pelargoniums as set up by Messrs
Jones' Nurseries, Limited, Ryecrott, Lewisham,
S. E., are very fine. The large circular group,
covering some 300 superficial feet, is filled with
finish
most
H. J.
well-grown plants carrying grand trusses of bloom
in every tone of colour known in these plants.
A few of the better sorts are Pandora (scarlet).
Will (clear scarlet, very large pips), Fred Gulliver,
Mrs. Tom White, Harry, Fred Bunstead, Kitty,
H. J. Jones, Harry Wood, Mrs. Fred Huggett,
Mrs. Gulliver, Edgar A. Tickle and a host of other
good things, both double and single. The group
is edged with Ferns and surmounted by a graceful
Palm.
Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea,
fill a square with a series of five beds, with grass
walks between. The central bed of circular form
is filled with beautiful Azaleas. Here are to
be seen grand plants smothered with delicate
blossoms in many hues, all in the pink of condition.
Mme. Keller, Empress of India, Professor Welters
(grand), Mme. J. Vervaene, Charmer, Dr. Moore,
Mme. Van den Cryssen, E. von Eeckhaute and
Mme. Morreau, among many other good varieties,
make a glorious display. Two comer beds are
filled with well-grown Caladiums, well coloured
and in grand form. Noteworthy examples are
Le Resplendent, Lady Stafford Northcote, Prince
of Wales, Mme. John Box, Triomphe de Comte,
W. Rappard, Emperor Alexander III., The
Mikado and many others. Stove and green-
house plants proper fill the other two comer
beds, and they comprise a wonderful assortment
of beautiful plants. Alocasia mortefontainensis,
Gymnogramma schizophylla, Maranta insignis,
Coccoloba pubescens, Phyllottenium Lindenii,
Dieffenbachia Jenmanii, Croton Reidii, Alocasia
argyrea, Sansevieria Laurentia, Dracaena goldieana,
Ananassa sativa variegata, Cannas, Anthuriums
and a wonderful array of most beautiful subjects
make this exhibit one of the features of this great
show.
AmaryUis from Messrs. Ker and Sons, Aigbinth
Nmrsery, Liverpool, make an effective exhibit.
The flowers are large and beautifully fresh, and
comprise a large and varied assortment of colours.
A few sorts worthy of special mention are Sappho,
Pink Gem, Fascination, Endymion, Crimson King,
Orange Perfection and alba magna. Interspersed
with moss and Ferns the effect is pleasing.
Mr. J. J. Ward, Rocklands, Finchley, N., has
a table group of herbaceous Calceolarias, the
plants of which would have been in better con-
dition a week or ten days hence. Some of the
plants are in condition, and represent a good strain.
Magnificent Schizanthuses from Mr. Ernest G.
Mocatta, Wobiun Place, Addlestone, Surrey
(gardener, Mr. Thomas Stevenson), are remarkable
for their good quality. The plants are densely
flowered, the quality of the blossoms of a very-
high order, and their colours are charmingly
diversified. We have never seen better, and
they are just at their best. There are thirty-
eight plants in all, and a finish was given to this
highly meritorious group with well-grown Hydran-
geas and Maidenhair Ferns. The plants are
described as Schizanthus wisetonensis Excelsior
strain.
Hydrangea hortensis in beautiful variety is
shown by Mr. Leopold Salomons, Norbury Park,
Dorking. This is a very fine exliibit. The plants
are at their best, and the colouring is superb.
This table group is neatly finished with Ferns
and Panicum varicgatum.
Zonal Pelargoniums, both double and single
flowered sorts, are shown by Messrs. Jamian and
Co., Chard. This firm also stages the new Cen-
taureas, Viola comuta in variety and other subjects.
Handsome bunches of Zonal Pelargoniums are
exhibited by Mr. Vincent Slade, Taunton.f About
May 23, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
265
three dozen bunches are shown, embracing quite
a number of the better sorts. Dublin, Vesta,
Lady Wilson Todd and Naples are striking varieties.
A new Fern, Adiantum gloriosum Lemkesii,
is shown by Messrs. Lemkes and Son, Alplien,
Holland. This is a very beautiful plant, and is
worthy of a place in all collections of stove and
greenhouse plants.
A splendid group of Streptocarpus hybrids is
put up by Mr. Henry B. Brandt, Capernor, Nuffield,
Surrey (gardener, Mr. H. Cook). The flowers are
large and their colours pleasingly diverse, and the
group as a whole is much admired.
A pretty table group of show and fancy Pelar-
goniums is exhibited by Mr. A. P. Brandt, Bletch-
ingley Castle, Surrey (gardener, Mr. J. W. Barks).
This is a very pretty group. The plants are
profusely flowered, and the quality of the flowers
is superb.
A splendid table group of large dimensions
is staged by Messrs. John Peed and Son, West
Norwood, London, S.E. This comprises Strepto-
carpuses in wonderfully pleasing variations of
colour, and a capital lot of Begonias, also very
varied in their colours and marking. The latter
are especially noteworthy.
Calceolarias, herbaceous and otherwise, are
well shown by Mr. A. H. Cole, Swanley, Kent.
This is a very charming feature, and the strain
a good one. A few fancy Pelargoniums are also
shown by this grower.
A grand bank of herbaceous Calceolarias is
exhibited by the Rev. H. Buckston, Derby
(gardener, Mr. Shambrook). The plants are
large, well-grown specimens, and are some of the
very best in the whole show. Good culture is
largely in evidence.
In the Long Tent, Messrs. James Veitch and Sons,
Limited, Chelsea, have two table-end groups of
Ferns, Fuchsias, Spiraeas, Primulas in variety
and a number of other useful plants, all of which
are most interesting. The Fuchsias are trained
in cordon form and are in splendid form and
condition.
Messrs. H. Cannell and Sons, Eynsford, Kent,
have an excellent exhibit of large and handsome
bunches of Zonal Pelargoniums and a number of
small plants of the better fancy Pelargoniums.
The Zonals are very striking, Lucania, Frogmore,
Arabic, King Victor, Queenswood, Lady Roscoe,
Princess of Wales and Mars being some of the more
noteworthy singles.
From the John limes Horticultural Institution
came a pretty table group of Calceolaria hybrids.
To those anxious to improve these flowers there
is much food for reflection to be found here.
Messrs. W. Cutbush and Son, Highgate and
High Barnet, N., have a wonderfully interesting
group, comprising miscellaneous plants. The
arrangement of the different subjects leaves
nothing to be desired — Hydrangeas, Rhododen-
drons, hardy Azaleas and Cytisus in variety,
Spirffia and Coleus James Attfield (very note-
worthy). There is much for all who are interested
in these plants to profit by in this very charming
group.
A grand lot of Hippeastrums (Veitch's hybrids)
make a striking table group as set up by Messrs.
James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea. They
are a very fine lot, and are graded in colours.
The quality is superb, colour, size and general
condition impressing visitors in a very marked
degree. From the same firm Calceolaria Clibranii
and Begonia Rex in beautiful variety make a
somewhat unique exhibit. The Calceolarias are
freely flowered, and are most striking. The
Rex Begonias are novel and fascinating in a
measure. The better sorts are Morning Rise,
Our Beauty, Frau G. Benary, His Majesty,
Rostoff, New Beauty, The Queen, Rex Rubrum,
La France, Mrs. F. Sander, Ernst Benary, Master-
piece and the extremely beautiful Countess of
TheUusson. Two very large triangular groups
in the Large Tent serve to display the mollis
and Ghent Azaleas. This firm's exhibits are
always a splendid feature of this great show,
and this year they seem to have eclipsed all previous
efforts. In the moUis section the plants are
gloriously fine. The rich and beautiful colouring
and the fragrance of this subject are most attrac-
trees, Ferns, and a variety of other subjects which
combine to make a truly remarkable exhibit.
An extremely handsome group of Schizanthus
is exhibited at tlie Embankment entrance to the
Large Tent by Mr. Alfred J. Waley, Stone House,
Reigate, Surrey (gardener, Mr. W. A. Dobson).
Seldom have such remarkable specimens been
seen, and the grower of tliis wonderful collection
of plants deserves great praise. The plants are
large, very freely flowered and the colours
superb.
Mr. William Iceton, Putney, S.W., exhibits a
splendid circular group of Lily of the Valley of a
very improved form. This is superbly fine, and
a source of great joy to many. Edged with
A CORNER OF MESSRS. SUTTON AND SONS EXHIBIT, SHOWING FINE PLANTS OF
PRIMULA OBCONICA.
five. The better sorts are Flambeau, Mme.
Mayer, Comte de Quincey, J. C. van Thol, Imperial,
Leon Vignes, Alphouse LavaUee and a host of
other good things. The Ghent Azaleas in the
second group are quite fascinating, and it is a good
thing to have the two sections divided as they
were on this occasion. The better sorts are
coccinea speciosa, Fanny (single), Pucella (single),
Daviesii, Pallas, Guelder Rose and occidentalis.
A charming circular group of the lovely Schizan-
thus is exhibited by Mrs. V. A. Litkie. Clarefield,
Pinkneys Green, Maidenhead (gardener, Mr. W.
Hulbert). These are very large plants, flowering
in the greatest profusion, in wonderful variety and
in beautiful colourings. There are many truly
grand things in this group, and the grower deserves
much credit for his display.
Show, fancy and scented-leaved Pelargoniums
are nicely shown by Messrs. Godfrey and Son,
Exmouth, Devon. Interspersed mth Ferns, the
effect is quite pretty, and the varieties of the
Pelargoniums of the best.
In a wonderfully comprehensive group round
the Obelisk, Messrs. John Piper and Sons, Barnes,
Surrey, exhibit a wonderful array of different
subjects. Azaleas Hinodegeri and the Silver Acers
cover the Obelisk, and roimd about are
Hydrangeas, Primula obconica, pygmy Japanese
Maidenhair Ferns and Dracaena Sanderae, the
effect is very pleasing.
A pretty group of Caladiums is sho^vn by
Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond. The plants are
arranged in rather flat fashion and not so large
as some others, but they are very fresh, clean
and nicely coloured.
Indian Azaleas are shown by Mr. Charles
Turner, Slough, in numerous plants trained in
pyramidal form. They are an attractive lot,
and take us back to the time when specimen
Azaleas used to be shown at the Ghent flower
exhibitions. This is a welcome featiure of this
great show.
Sarraceni are set up in natural fashion m a
very attractive gxoup by Mr. A. J. A. Bruce,
Chorlton-cum-Hardy, Mancliester. Pools and a
mossy groundwork and rockwork to match make
these plants at their best. With Bamboos and
Grasses in association, we regard this exhibit as
one of this firm's best efforts.
A miscellaneous group, comprising a variety of
subjects, is set up by Messrs. Stuart Low and Co.,
Enfield. The Bottle Brush Tree (Metrosideros
floribunda). Azalea rosseflora. Hydrangea hortensis,
Ceanothus Veitchii, Gerberas and the new Araucaria,
Silver Queen, are a few of the noteworthy
subjects in this display.'
266
THE GARDEN.
[May 23, 1914
A mixed group of a very commendable Idnd
is staged by Messrs. H. B. May and Sons,
Upper Edmonton. Heliotropes, Verbenas, Zonal
Pelargoniums, Weeping Roses, Salvias, Lobelias,
Fuchsias and numerous other plants all combine
to make a beautiful exhibit.
A bold and massive-looking group of Caladiums
comes from Messrs. John Peed and Son, West
Norwood, S.E. The plants are well grown, but
should have been raised somewhat from the ground-
work of Ferns, &c. Some of the better plants are
Mme. J. Box, Trioraphe de Comte, Excellent,
C. E. Dahle, George Cover and a wonderful series
of plants with telling foliage.
Part of a large group set up by Mr. James
Horlick, West Dean Park, Chichester (gardener,
Mr. W. H. Smith), comprises a wonderful display
of 5'eUow Callas in the pink of condition. The
species is Calla Pentlandii, and we doubt whether
a finer lot of these plants has ever been seen.
Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, W.C,
make a fine exhibit of Japanese pygmy trees.
There is a very charming assortment, the ages
Andrew Tweedie (cream), Countess of Dartmouth
(cream, edged and fiaked rose), Hon. Mrs. Ronald
Greville (cream) and Hon. Mrs. Maurice Glyn
(apricot).
Messrs. Blackmore and Langdon, Twerton-on-
Avon, Bath, set up an inimitable group of tuberous-
rooted Begonias in quality of the most superb
description. Seldom is the British public treated
to such a wonderful representation of these
beautiful flowers. Without a single exception the
blooms are of the highest quality, and represent
the last word in these gorgeous flowers. Note-
worthy sorts are Princess Victoria (salmon pink),
Lord Methuen (bright scarlet), Rose Superbe
(pale rose). Lady Carew (deep rose), Violet Langdon
(flesh pink), Irene Gambling (orange). Lady
Cromer, Mrs. James Reid (lovely pink). Empress
Marie (white) and Mrs. James Douglas (yellow).
These are just a few of the wonderful things in
this group, and gives this firm the high position
they have won with these plants.
A charming bank of tuberous Begonias, rising
to a considerable height at the back, is staged
W^^
■^^''
^.
SOME OF THE BEGONIAS SHOWN BY MESSRS. BLACKMORE AND LANGDON.
rDf the trees ranging up to 200 years old. Most of
Che trees are in excellent form and condition, show-
ing evidence of considerable care and attention.
BEGONIAS.
Messrs. Thomas Ware and Co., Feltham,
Middlesex, have a grand table group of their
magnificent tuberous-rooted Begonias, in which
large and handsome double-flowered varieties
predominate. Marvellous advance must be
chronicled with these gorgeous flowers, form and
coloiuring now being all that the connoisseur
could well desire. The plants are in excellent
condition for so early in the year, flowering freely
and carrying superb examples of cultural skill.
Among the more noteworthy additions this season
are King George V., a very large and handsome
flower of good form and rich salmon colour ;
and Duchess of Marlborough, a lovely rich salmon
pink of high quality. Other good things worthy
of special notice are Gladys Valentine (pale
salmon), Mrs. Maiurice Pope (salmon rose), Mrs.
by Mr. A. LI. Gwillim, Sidcup, Kent. These
are all double-flowered sorts and represent
many of the better-known varieties. Lady Cromer,
Mrs. J. C. Gwillim, Miss Ada Britten, Sidcup
Beauty and Mrs. H. Harris are especially note-
worth v sorts.
SWEET PEAS.
It is but a few years since Sweet Peas first made
their appearance at the Royal Horticultural
Society's spring shows, and while the quality
was not actually impressive, the flowers, never-
theless, caused a mild commotion. Nowadays,
however, we not only look for Sweet Peas in May,
but we expect quality equal to the best that the
month of July will produce, and, what is more,
we get it. The advance in the art of Sweet Pea
growing under glass is little short of miraculous,
and those who are familiar with the blooms pro-
duced in this " country and the United States,
the home of Sweet Pea forcing, assure us that
the home growers more than hold their own,
although they may not be able to produce flowers
at so early a date. As is well known, some acres
of glass are devoted to Sweet Peas for market
purposes, and from about mid-.April one sees
blooms of varying quality in the florists' shops.
The various Sweet Pea specialists likewise devote
a considerable amount of glass to this crop, and in
doing so they benefit materially by being enabled
to exhibit long before the natural period of bloom-
ing, while they also are able to ensure a more or
less good crop of seed of the more valuable varieties.
Messrs. Dobbie and Co. of Edinburgh were
among the first to realise the importance of indoor
culture, and after several tests in the ordinary
houses originally installed at Mark's Tey, the
firm some three or four years ago erected special
large, airy houses solely for Sweet Peas. To say
that these houses have justified themselves is
hardly sufiicient. Not only is the firm among
the first to exhibit each season, but the quality is
rarely matched and never surpassed. On this occa-
sion the firm cover 150 square feet, the vases
arranged in three tiers and backed by the well-
known black velvet screen. It is impossible for us to
attempt to enumerate anything like the whole
of the varieties shown, so we must be content
to mention the most new and notable. An out-
standing novelty is Dobbie's Orange, a gorgeous
orange salmon of great size. A veritable flame.
Royal Purple is assuredly one of the great things
for 1915, a giant purple self difierent to any-
thing we have had before, even in the days of
tlie old grandifloras. It may not be every-
one's colour, but still it is a coming variety.
Alfred Watkins is a peculiar greyish lavender
of a very even shade. Frilled Pink, another
novelty of great promise, impresses one by its
intense friUiness, while its colour is a clear bright
pink. It is a most advanced type of Spencer.
Duchess of Portland, a delightful cream pink of
great size, is another new-comer, while Norma is
a superb orange salmon cerise of huge proportions.
Several seedlings, including a white and an intense
urange, we noted, while among the standard
sorts May Campbell, Thomas Stevenson (nearly
all fours this), Lady Miller, King White, New-
Marquis, and Edrom Beauty are in strong
evidence.
Messrs. E. W. King and Co., Coggeshall, make
an effective display, the stand being tastefully
decorated with Smilax and other foliage. Kathleen
makes a brilliant patch of colour, while James Box
impresses one by the doubling of its flowers.
This is certainly one of the leaders in the salmon
section. Anglian Blush is a novelty of promise ;
Anglian Cream Duplex is striking by its strong
colour and tendency to double ; and Morning Mist
may be termed a Walter P. Wright on a cream
ground. Other notable varieties sre Anglian
Fairy, Anglian Royalty, Anglian White and
Queen Mary. Several of the varieties shown were
cut from the open ground.
A very clean exhibit is thU by Mr. J. Steven-
son, Wimborne, and while the number of varieties
is not extensive, several telling blocks, including
Thomas Stevenson, Bertrand Deal, Prince George,
Agricola, R. F. Felton, and Hercules we noted.
These for the most part are set up in Bamboo
pillars, the length of stem in some instances being
very great.
Mr. James Box, Lindficld, differs from the other
exhibitors by setting up a group of plants in th
Large Tent ; as all the plants arc in 6-inch pots,
it naturally follows that the flowers are not over-
large. Nevertheless, they are interesting, and
May 23, 1914/
THE GARDEN.
267
demonstrate that Sweet Peas can be grown even
in small pots. A great number of varieties are
staged.
Messrs. S. Bide and Sons, Farnham, elaborately
stage a tine collection. All the varieties are set
up in glass vases, under a white-roofed erection,
the effect being distinctly good. The flowers are
extremely strong, and several telling nbvelties
are noted. Ruth Bide is an intense rosy salmon,
much brighter than A. A. Fabius. Phyllis Bide
should give the much-talked-of Robert Sydenham
a severe tussle. Bide's Cream is deep in colour,
while among other new varieties. Climax (deep rose) ,
King lUauve, Blue King, King White and Phoebus
stand out strongly. A really very striking exhibit.
An excellent display is that made by Messrs.
Robert Sydenham, Limited, Birmingham, and here
on this stand one is able to see that wonderful
orange named after the late lamented Robert
Sydenham. Grand blocks of Barbara, Inspector,
Princess Mary, Thomas Stevenson, Maud Holmes,
Margaret Atlee, Lilian and Lady Evelyn Eyre
are all splendidly shown.
A small stand is put up by Messrs. R. H. Bath,
Limited, Wisbech. The firm's new orange named
Glow stands out strongly, while some excellent
vases of Hercules, King White, La Belle Sauvage,
King Manoel, James Box, Mrs. J. C. House,
Afterglow, Florence Wright Spencer and Thomas
Stevenson are among the remainder that are
on view.
A very telling exhibit is that of Messrs. Sutton
and Sons, Reading. Backed by a polished I
mahogany series of archways, the flowers are j
arranged in three semi-circular bays. Elaborate
tall vase-holders of polished nickel are carrying I
the Howers that fill the spaces between the
semi-circles. Robert Sydenham is well shown, !
while a superb new cream, unnamed, is also m
evidence. Among others, Barbara, Royal Rose,
Maud Holmes, Mrs. J. C. House, Thomas Stevenson,
Margaret Atlee, Decorator, R. F. Felton, Inspector
and Florence Wright Spencer all stand out
prominently in this effective exhibit.
Taken collectively, the Sweet Peas are by no
means the least important section in the exhibition,
and the furms exhibiting deserve full credit for their
efforts. Had more space been available, we
believe more extensive exhibits could have been set
up ; but in conformity with the idea of the Royal
Horticultural Society, exhibitors have refrained
from duplicating the varieties, with the result that
the visitors are able to view a large number of
varieties on a comparatively small amount of
space.
hardy section a novelty worthy of note is Poly-
stichum gracillimum Drueryi. This section is
well represented, and to Fern-lovers should prove
a source of considerable interest.
A pretty little table group of Ferns and cactaceo'is
plants is shown by Mr. H. N. Ellison, West
Bromwich. The Stag's-horn Fern (Platycerium
grande) is very fine, and there are other interest-
ing plants. Cacti are shown in great variety
in small pots.
HERBACEOUS & BULBOUS
PLANTS.
This department is well represented, many
leading firms bringing of their best.
In the group from Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent
Garden, W.C, wiU be found a choice collection
oi Ixias and Sparaxis ; of the latter Scarlet Gem
is a notable sort. Then in Iris susiana, Eremuri,
Olearia, Cytisus, Androsace, Gentian and Oriental
Poppy the searcher after meritorious subjects has
a wide choice. In this group, too, the green-
Messrs. George Jackman and Sons, Woking,
have many showy things in Delphinium, Pjeony,
Lily, Spiraja, Geum Mrs. Bradshaw, the early
Gladioli, Oxalis enneaphylla and other choice
things. Delphiniums Capri and King of Del-
phiniums are very good.
Messrs. Wallace and Co., Colchester, have an
amazing group near the centre of the Large Tent,
the collection particularly rich in Japanese Acers,
Lilies, Irises, Ixias, hardy Orchids, Eremuri,
Primula and the like. Of the LiUes, such as
Martagon dalmaticum, myriophyllum, Krameri,
venustum and macranthum are all worthy of
note, while the towering spikes of Eremuri wiU
appeal to all.
Messrs. G. and A. Clark, Limited, Dover, are
showing finely Iris, Polyanthus Cloth of Gold,
Incarvillcas, Pyrethrums, Geum Mrs. Bradshaw
and other showy flowers.
Messrs. George Bunyard and Co., Maidstone,
have a fine display of hardy flowers, notablv
Thalictrum dipterocarpum, Astilbe Ceres, Del-
phinium Cymbeline, Iris King of Iris, Eremuri,
FERNS.
At the south-eastern entrance to the Large
Tent, Messrs. H. B. May and Son, Limited, Upper
Edmonton, N., have set up one of their renowned
groups of choice Ferns. This is of a most repre-
sentative character, and comprises many speci-
mens of remarkable beauty. There rre some
seven hundred species and varieties, which will give
the reader some idea of the comprehensive display
made by this wonderful group. Specially note-
worthy examples are Adiantum grossum, a
novelty in Maidenhair Ferns ; Davallia solida
superba, one of the very finest specimens ; Pteris
flabeUata plumosa, a feathered kind of the old
South African species ; and Platycerium Cordreyi,
a wonderful development in the Elk-horn Ferns.
Of standard Ferns, Nephrolepis WiUmotts is
quite the newest type of the Lace Fern. In the
HERBACEOUS CALCEOLARIAS EXHIBITED BY MESSRS. E. WEBB AND SONS.
flowered Ixia viridiflora is very beautiful, and
appeals by reason of its rare colour and quaint-
ness. It is charming in the cut state.
Mr. James Box, Lindfield Nurseries, Hayward's
Heath, is staging admirably Primula, Spiraa,
Pseony, Anemone, Incarvillea brevipas and choice
Liliums. Of these latter L. Grayii and L.
canadense are very beautiful. A group of hardy j
Cypripediuras adds interest to the whole.
Mr. Amos Perry, Enfield, is making a fine central
display of Tree Pasonies, while about and around
are collections of Poppies, Irises, hybrids of the
Regelio-cyclus and Korolkowi groups and many
interesting species. A new white Poppy here is
very beautiful, if less sumptuous than some, while
the new white Marguerite, Chrysanthemum
Leucanthemum fl.-pl., is interesting and good.
Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, Kent, has an excellent
group of things — Crinodendron Hookeri, Rhodo-
dendrons of the choicest sorts in bold array. Irises
of the Oncocyclus and Regelio-cyclus sets, with
Primula, Cehnisia, Olearia, Cypripedium and other
choice subjects. The Rhododendrons and alpines
in this group are very beautiful.
Pyrethrum Mary Kelway, Rhododendron Pink
Pearl, with Ghent Azaleas and other flowers.
Messrs. PhiUips and Taylor, Bracknell, have a
fine show of Primulas, .Auriculas, Anchusa, Iris,
alpine and other Phloxes, Astilbe Peach Blossom
and the like.
Messrs. Gunn and Sons, Olton, Warwickshire
are displaying Phloxes Frau A. Buchner, Elizabeth
Campbell, lord Curzon, Princess Royal and
other fine kinds in their usual good
get dry, as the fleshy roots soon
shrivel up if the plants are kept
out of the ground too long.
With the introduction during the
last few years of some new
species from China, there are now
seventeen hardy. Cypripediums in
cultivation.
Cypripedium acaule (C.
humile) is a North American
species with a pair of broad,,
hairy leaves, from between
which it pushes up a flower-stem
over six inches long, surmounted
by a green bract and single-
flower. The sepals are whitish,
while the large pouch is of a bright rose colour
veined with crimson. It is distinct from all
others in the pouch being split right down the face,
giving it a two-lobed appearance.
C. arietinuin is a pretty little plant, less easy
to grow than most other kinds. The sepals are
greenish white, while the lip is white and suffused
with rose on the front. It is found in somewhat
damp woods in North America.
C. Calceolus, a native of this countrj', is excel-
lent for naturalising in woods, especially %vhere
the soil is of a heavy and calcareous nature. When
established, it makes large tufts of many stems,
each producing two or three flowers, the sepals;
of which are deep brown, while the pouch is yellow.
272
THE GARDEN.
[May 23, 1 91 4.
This plant is found in many parts of Europe and
Siberia.
C, californioum is an interesting species with
tawny yellow sepals and a blush white pouch
obscurely spotted with brown.
C. candidum is also very charming, with greenish
brown sepals and a yeUow lip.
C. fasciculatum bears several flowers on each
stem, which often reaches a height of a foot. The
sepals are greenish, as is also the lip, which has a
purple brown margin. The above three species
are less easy to keep than most of the others,
and are all North American plants.
C. debile is an interesting little plant from
Japan, with a pair of leaves like our native Tway-
blade (Listera ovata), and a slender, drooping
stem bearing a small single flower. The sepals
are greenish, while the white pouch is spotted with
bro\\Ti.
C. guttatum is a rare Siberian plant, and is
one of the prettiest as well as one of the most
difficult to establish. It prefers soil of a light, open
description, with plenty of moisture when growing,
but rather dry when at rest. The flowers are of
fair size, with white sepals and pouch, the latter
being spotted and blotched with crimson-purple.
C. japonicum is remarkable for its pair of
broad and distinctly ribbed leaves, from which
one or two flowers are produced
singly on short stalks. They are
large and handsome, striated and
blotched with green, white, and
rose purple. This plant grows
freely in shade, but frequently
strong crowns fail to flower.
C. luteum comes from North-
western Hupeh in China, where
it was collected by Mr. E. H.
Wilson, who also met with it in
greater quantities on the borders
of China and Tibet. It is an
erect-growing plant, with solitary
flowers, the sepals and petals
being clear yellow, while the
yellow pouch usually has a few
spots of orange brown on its
face. The stems are stout and
leafy, and covered with a short,
brownish pubescence.
C. macranthum . — This
Siberian species is one of the
most handsome members of
the family, growing about a
foot high and bearing large,
almost uniform, rose purple
flowers. It is partial
A DAINIY lady's SLIPPER ORCHID : C. MONTANUM. THE TWISTED
SEPALS ARE BROWN AND THE POUCH WHITE.
others, approaching
in this respect more
nearly C. Calceolus,
with which it is
often found grow-
ing in its native
habitats. These two
intercross and pro-
duce an intermediate
plant known as C.
ventricosum, which
differs from macran-
thum in its longer,
narrower sepals, nar-
rower pouch and
paler colour. C.
Thunbergii is the
Japanese form of
this plant, with paler-
mloured flowers.
C. montanum is
a beautiful and dis-
tuict little species
from North-Westem
.America, with three
or four flowers on
each stem. The
sepals are brownish
AN INTERESTING HYBRID : CYPRIPEDIUM VENTRICOSUM
(C. MACRANTHUM X C. CALCEOLUS).
I0 a more loamy soil j purple, while the pouch is white and striped
than -most of the ] with red inside. (Syn., C. occidentale.)
C. pubescens (C. hirsutum). — A handsome,
free-growing species from North America. In a
cool, shady spot it will thrive and produce stems
up to 2 feet high, bearing large yellow flowers.
The twisted sepals are pale yellow and spotted
with brown.
C. parviflorum is a closely allied species of
C. pubescens, with smaller yellow flowers, spotted
and suffused with brown. It is also a native of
North America.
C. Reginae (C. spectabile). — One of the finest
hardy Orchids and the easiest to grow. It will
thrive in a shady border and form large tufts,
with many of the stems over two feet high, bearing
two or three flowers on each. In colour they are
white, with the greater portion of the lip suffused
with rich rose. In sheltered portions of the rock
garden groups of it are very attractive, the necessary
conditions being thorough drainage, rich soil and
plenty of moisture. It comes from North America.
C. tibeticum. — .A handsome species from
Western China, and another introduction of
Messrs. Veitch and Sons through their collector,
Mr. E. H. Wilson. In habit it resembles C.
macranthum, but its flowers are larger, with the
sepals tessellated dark purple and a chocolate-
coloured pouch. So far it has not proved very
amenable to cultivation. W. I.
May 23, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
273
GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.
MUSHROOM CULTURE ON OLD HOT-BEDS.
IN the majority of small gardens the Mush-
room is rarely cultivated, there being a
prevalent idea that it cannot be grown
without special beds and structures. Cer-
tainly, if one requires this delicious vegetable
all the year round, a Mushroom - house
becomes a necessity. However, there must be
numerous gardens where there are one or two old
hot-beds lying idle all through the summer, and
it is in these that sufficient may be grown to supply
the household for several weeks. Those who
utilise frames for the raising of half-hardy annuals,
&c., will have them empty about the end of June,
the manure which originally composed the hot-
bed being left in the frames until it can be dug
in during the autumn months. These old beds
of manure will give quite a good crop of Mush-
rooms without any trouble.
As a rule, a period of six to eight weeks elapses
between spawning and the appearance of Mush-
rooms, so that June and July are very suitable
months in whi-'h to spawn the beds. The manure
will have lost most ot its natural heat at this time
of the year, but will have retained sufficient solar
warmth to start the white films or " mycelium."
It is essential that the spawn should be good, other-
wise the Mushrooms will be few and poor in quality.
For a 6-feet by 4-feet frame one brick of Mushroom
spawn will suffice. This should be broken into
eight or ten pieces, wliich should be forced into the
manure at regular intervals over the bed. Do
this by hand and not with a dibbler, as so many
do, for this instrument leaves smooth, hollow spaces
which prevent the spawn from spreading. Do not
break the brick into more than ten pieces, for
small pieces result in small Mushrooms.
As soon as spawning is completed, cover the bed
with straw or litter of some kind and put on the
lights. In about a week the spawn should have
commenced to impregnate- the manure. It is easy
to see if all is well, for should the spawn be bad or
not alive, the pieces will be considerably darker
than when inserted. If, however, they appear
greyish or mouldy, then the time has come for
covering the bed with soil. The best soil for this
purpose is undoubtedly that from an old pasture
which has been stacked for about a year. It is
Nature's compost, and the Mushrooms will revel
in it. When applying, it should be moderately
moist, the layer being from 2 inches to 3 inches
thick. Beat it down solid with the back of a spade ;
it cannot be made too hard, as the Mushrooms
will come through, no matter how hard the soil
may be. The writer has seen the uncultivated
Mushroom make its appearance through a hard-
rolled carriage drive. Having beaten down the
earth, again replace the litter, or, if this is not
obtainable, the lights may be placed on the frame
and the glass covered with sacking. Every
endeavour should be made to keep an even tempera-
ture of 60°, which may be accomplished by varying
the thickness of the covering material. The bed
should be kept uniformly moist, for if allowed to
become dry, the bed will almost certainly fail to
produce. The degree of moisture may be ascer-
tained by keeping two sticks thrust in the top
and bottom of the bed, which should be withdrawn
from time to time and examined. If found to
be too dry, the bed should be moistened with a
syringe, using water of tlie sam' temperature as
the bed. If litter is used, this mi.ist ue removed
before spraying, and returned as soon iis the opera-
tion is over, putting on the lights to keep the
temperature normal.
If no Mushrooms appear in eight weeks, do not
assume that the bed is a failure, for it may happen
that they will appear in another week or two. When
they make their appearance, do not remove the
covering material more than can be helped, other-
wise the Mushrooms are apt to become brown on
the top. When gathering, pull out the stalk,
which would otherwise decay and stop the pro-
duction at that part of the bed.
South Heath, Great Missenden. Thro.xenby.
see that the young plants do not suffer from the
want of water, and keep them free from weeds.
If it can possibly be managed, transplant to their
flowering quarters early in the autumn, as by so
doing they become established before the winter
sets in, and start straight away without a check when
tlie milder weather comes round. Most amateurs
have a shady border which it is always a difficulty
to fill, and if any readers are in this predicament
I would advise them to give these plants a trial.
Troon, Ayrshire. G. B. W.
HOW TO GROW CANTERBURY
BELLS.
For making a brilliant display of colour in early
summer and midsummer few flowers can rival these
SOME SALIENT POINTS IN
BEDDING OUT PLANTS.
The work of clearing away spring-flown ng
subjects to make room for the summer-flowering
ones is being attended to now, and much
thought will be given to the arrangemei t
of the new occupants of the beds. It 1-
well to remember that the soil in the beds is
poorer now than it was last autumn, and that
MUSHROOMS GROWING IN AN OLD HOT-BED THAT HAD PREVIOUSLY BEEN USED FOR
BEDDING PLANTS.
old favourites, which have for so many years adorned
our gardens. Plants raised from seeds last year
will now be throwing up their flower-spikes, and
if they are in a position at all exposed to strong
winds, a neat stake should be attached to each,
so that, should a storm come, one may rest assured
that no damage can be done. A thorough soaking
of liquid manure or a top-dressing of some approved
fertiliser given at short intervals until the colour
shows in the buds will be of immense benefit to
the plants at this season of their growth.
Sowing Seed. — But while the grower of these
plants is eagerly awaiting the result of his work
during the last twelve months, he must not rest
on his laurels if he wants another display next
year, as the present is the most opportune time
to sow seed. By sowing early, strong tufts are
produced by the autumn, and only well-grown
specimens make a good display the following
season. Sow the seed thinly in drills far enough
apart to allow the hoe to pass between, and when
germination has taken place, thin out to about
six inches apart. If the summer is very dry.
some fresh soil would be an advantage. In order
that the soil may be kept at a certain level, some
of it should be removed before the new soil is
put in ; then the latter and some well-rotted
manure should he thoroughly mixed with the
old loam. In the case of clayey loams, add some
leaf-soil and a small quantity of peat for Begonias,
and where the soil is fairly rich, be more sparing
of the manure if Zonal Pelargoniums, Nastur-
tiums or Petunias are to occupy the beds. With
regard to the form of the bed where sandy soils
obtain, I have seen many formed with high centres,
resulting in a pitch of nearly 30°. Very little
water ever penetrated the dusty surface, and the
plants put out never fully occupied the space
they were intended to fill. In instances of this
kind a flat surface is much more satisfactory.
In hot places. Zonal Pelargoniums, Petunias
and Nasturtiums will succeed better than in
damp, shady ones ; while in the latter, tuberous
Begonias, Fuchsias, Pansies, Violas and Calceo-
larias will thrive. It is advisable to pick off fully
developed flowers at planting-time. Shamrock.
274
THE GARDEN.
[May 23, 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
Early Muscat Vines. — If these were started
early, the Grapes will have passed the stoning
stage, and should be induced to finish ripening
to as high a degree as possible. When colouring
commences a constant movement of moderately
dry air ought to be maintained, and the night
temperature never allowed to fall below 70",
rising to 80° or 85° by day with sun-heat.
Thinning Late Grapes. — In all cases this work
should be taken in hand as soon as the berries
are sufficiently advanced, for if once delayed the
work becomes increasingly difficult day by day,
and many of the berries are injured in consequence.
Avoid touching the bunches with the hand, and
keep the scissors perfectly clean. The largest
and best-placed berries should be left in such a
manner that the full circumference of the bunches
may be retained. Promote a moist atmosphere
and give air with great caution.
Late-Planted Vines. — All lateral shoots may
be stopped at the first joint, and keep the leading
shoot from coming in contact with the glass.
Shut up the house early in the afternoon m order
to make the most of the sun-heat, and never
allow the Vines to suffer from want of water at
the roots.
Plants Under Glass.
Primula sinensis. — If seeds were sown in April,
the plants will now require potting into small,
clean pots. The soil may consist of rich loam and
leaf-soil in equal parts, with sufficient sharp sand
to keep it sweet and porous. Place them near
the glass in a close pit, and syringe with clear soft
water twice daily. Further sowings may be made
now in finely sifted soil.
Cinerarias. — Young seedlings may be potted
as soon as a second rough leaf has been made.
Place them in a close, cool pit and shade from strong
sun. When well rooted, ventilation should be
freely given, and they must never be permitted
to suffer from want of water at the roots. For
successional plants sow again and grow in a clean,
well-ventilated pit.
Cannas. — These plants appear to advantage
in the conservatory during the summer, where
they associate well with other subjects. They
require a liberal supply of moisture at the roots,
and will benefit b>^ an occasional dusting of artificial
manure. Plants intended for late flowering should
be potted up into larger-sized pots. Rich loam
and leaf-soil will suit them well.
Hard-Wooded Greenhouse Plants.— The latest
batch of Azaleas will be in flower now, and will
require careful attention to watering. As soon
as the flowering period is over, the plants should
be removed to an intermediate house and started
into growth. Remove all seed-pods, and when
growth commences any potting which is necessary
should be done before the young growths are too
far advanced.
The Flower Garden.
Bulbs. — There should be no delay in planting
any bulbs which have been forced. If planted
in the pleasure grounds while the foliage is green,
they will retain their foliage much longer, and
better results may be expected than if allowed to
wither in the pots before being put out.
Salvia Pride of Zurich.— These plants should
be gradually hardened and prepared for planting
in the open. If pot-bound, they must be care-
fully watered, so that they may not become
stunted before the time arrives when they may
be planted out with safety. Weak liquid manure
may be given at alternate waterings until they are
put out.
Preparation for Siunmer Bedding. — As soon
as the early flowering bulbs are over, the ground
should be prepared for other subjects. Let the
soil be thoroughly broken up, and, if necessary-, a
quantity of old Mushroom-bed manure or that from
a spent hot-bed should be mixed with it. Beds
in which Begonias are to be planted should receive
special preparation in the way of good leaf-soil
or some light, rich material, and may also receive
a sprinkling of fine bone-meal. When all is ready.
the hardier plants, such as Geraniums, should
be planted first, leaving Heliotropes, Begonias,
Cannas, Iresines and other tender subjects till
the last.
Dahlias. — Spring-struck plants may still be
kept under slight protection, but old plants which
have been forwarded in cold frames may have
the lights removed, only to be replaced in case
of frost. Planting may be delayed imtil the
first week in June, especially in low-lying districts
where late frosts are frequent.
The Kitchen Garden.
Broad Beans. — Another sowing of these may
be made now, and, if necessary, a fortnight later.
Broad Windsor is the best variety for this purpose,
and will do much better if sown in trenches into
which a quantity of decayed manure has been
dug. Early sown Beans may have their tops
removed immediately after sufficient flowers are
open, and should black aphis appear, the plants
ought to be syringed with a mixture of soft soap
and water.
French Beans. — Plants which are pushing
through the ground will require protection from
frost or cold winds, but this crop will repay the
cultivator for any extra trouble. Fortnightly
sowings may be made from now onwards, in order
to keep up a supply of tender young pods. The
Belfast is one of the best for this purpose, and if
picked young may be cooked and served uncut.
Potatoes. — ^The soil between the rows of early
Potatoes should be deeply stirred previous to
earthing up the plants. This will destroy numerous
small weeds, as well as prepare the soil for the
young tubers. In earthing up Potatoes the soil
should not be drawTi up to a sharp ridge, but
left in such a way as to permit the rain-water
to reach the roots.
Spinach. — Make frequent sowings from now
onwards, choosing a cool north border for the
purpose. Make a small sowing of New Zealand
Spinach in a warm position. This may prove a
valuable substitute for ordinary Spinach if hot
weather sets in.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Broad Beans. — Where these were sown towards
the end of January they will now be in a forward
state, and if it is desired to have an early supply,
the points should be pinched out as soon as there
is a good show of blossom. Sometimes this is
necessarj' where the crop has been attacked by
fly, as it seems to be the only means of getting rid
of it. Should the weather be excessively dry, the
plants ought to have a good soaking of water,
otherwise, if allowed to become dr\' at the roots,
the blooms are sure to fall off.
Turnips. — Should the fly make its appearance
on the young plants, no time must be lost in
giving them a dusting of soot or lime. I have
also found dusting with fine ashes that have been
kept dry most effectual. For obvious reasons
this dusting should be done in the early morning,
and done thoroughly. Sometimes, however, all of
these fail to save the crop, and there will be nothing
for it but to make another sowing in somewhat
richer soil.
Runner Beans. — As these Beans are less
hardy than the dwarf varieties, it will not bo
wise to sow much before this date ; indeed, if
left until the beginning of Tune there wlj still
be time to secure a crop in an average season.
They may be sown in long single i;r double rows
to screen the vegetable quarter--, which at certain
seasons of the year are rather unsightly. In any
case a well-grown row gives a very pleasing effect
when in bloom. When the young plants are a
few inches high, they will require to be trained
to the poles or stakes, although I believe many
people top them once or twice during the season
and do away with sticks. This practice is not
to be recommended, more particularly in cold
districts, as they take much longer to yield.
Vffatering Newly Planted Crops.— In dry
weather these will require to be watered frequently.
This applies equally to seedlings as well as toothers
of larger growth. This watering is verj' beneficial
in hastening the fresh rooting and setting the
plants into growth from the beginning.
The Flower Garden.
Violets. — Young plants that were put out
towards the end of last month will require to be
carefully attended to at the present time, especially
if the weather is hot and dry. Where there
is difficulty in keeping them supplied with water,
they may be shaded from the direct rays of the
sun by placing some ordinary Pea sticks among
the plants until they are fairly started into growth.
By all means syringe them over on the evenings
of fine days.
Polyanthuses. — Seed may be sown now out of
doors, or, where only a few plants are required, seed
may be sown in a box and placed in a cold frame.
When the seedlings are large enough to handle,
prick them out into a spot which is partially
shaded, and work in a good quantity of leaf-mould
to promote a quick growth. Established plants
will have passed out of flower, and if it is desired
to increase the stock, they may be split up and
planted in a position as recommended for seedlings.
Sowing Perennials. — As a riile these plants
are not sown early enough, more especially in late
districts. Where there is a difficulty in getting
plants sufficiently established by the autumn,
I would recommend sowing not much later than
the present date. Very often they are sown in
boxes and pricked out, and finally transplanted
into the open border. No doubt there is a good
deal to be said for this system ; still, where it
is at all possible, I think we get better results
by sowing in the open. I find we get much stronger
and hardier plants, which are therefore better able
to puU through the winter.
Rock Garden.— The majority of the plants
will now be at their best, and as they pass out of
flower they should be gone over from time to time,
cutting off faded flowers and keeping down weeds.
Make a note of those plants that are required
for seed and put a label to them to that effect,
otherwise they may be inadvertently cut off
in the general clear up. Primula rosea grown
beside a stream has been especially fine this season,
and where it is intended to increase the stock,
the plants should be divided and replanted %vith
care, as they resent any careless handling.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Raspberries. — As the young growths advance,
keep them well thinned out, only retaining the
most likely shoots to produce next season's crop.
We usually allow far tqo many canes to remain,
with the result that they grow into a perfect
tangle, and even the best of them are indifferently
ripened. If the plants were not mulched with
manure, as previously advised, no time should be
lost in seeing to this very necessary work.
Strawberries. — These will now be in flower,
and more than likely a very abundant crop of
weeds will be making their appearance. These
should be removed at once, as if left they seriously
interfere with the swelUng of the fruit, besides
the chances of their running to seed. Have al)
the protecting material put down at once.
Fruits Under Glass.
Orchard-House. — As all the fruit will now
be swelling, it will be necessary to maintain a
buoyant atmosphere. On fine days use the syringe
freely to keep aphis in check, and it will still be
necessary to exercise care in ventilating. Keep
the young growths pinched rather closely, as if
this is, done systematically there need be no fear
of the fruit receiving a check from this pinching.
Peaches and Nectarines. — ^Trees that are
approaching the stoning stage should be kept
somewhat cooler ; indeed, they must not be
excited in any way. When, however, they com-
mence the second swelling, they should be assisted
with frequent applications of liquid manure.
The crop must be regulated according to the
state of the trees, and the temperature should
be allowed to rise considerably by closing the
house early in the afternoon. On the approach
of the ripening stage they must have a constant
circulation of air.
John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopetoun Gardens, South Queensftrry, N.B.
May 23, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
275
SEASONABLE NOTES ON
CHRYSANTHEMUMS.
A LL the plants, except, perhaps, a few
/% of the late-struck ones, intended for
/ % flowermg on single stems in small
/ % pots will now be growing in open
*■ J^- quarters. The special ones referred
to will require the protection of a
cold frame with the lights off for a week or so
longer.
Close Spacing of Plants. — When young plants
are first removed to open quarters, it is advisable
to stand them rather close together for a week or
ten days. If, however, they remain so for a
longer period, many lower leaves will suffer.
Exclusion from full light sadly weakens them,
and, although they do not fall off at once, they
do so prematurely later on in the season. Place
the plants in rows at least a foot apart until they
are finally repotted, and then, after that operation,
the large pots may be placed close together for
a week or so before they are arranged in rows
several feet apart for the summer months.
Feeding and Repotting must be done every
week where a cultivator has to keep up the general
good health of a large collection of plants, I
would not hesitate to shift a plant which badly
needed more rooting space in a 4§-inch pot to
a 6-inch one in the middle of May, and so defer
the final potting of that plant by a fortnight in
consequence, than let it remain in the smaller
pot and then transfer it to the flowering pot
a fortnight earlier than is reasonable, or else let
it remain the extra time in the smaller pot and
deteriorate to a certain extent. This occasional
shifting on of young plants by degrees tends
very materially to maintain the whole collection
in a high state of health. There are always
many plants in a collection at this season that
are benefited by occasional doses of liquid manure,
and some with very hard stems and toughening
leaves will be benefited if given a dose of nitrate
of soda at the rate of a teaspoonful to a gallon
of water. Such plants must possess a fair number
of roots. When this is applied, the soil must
be still in a moist state from a previous watering
with clear water.
Poor Loam tor Final Pottings. — The compost
acts as a storehouse for food and a home for the
roots of the plants. A vast amount of nourishment
can be given through the medium of the poorest
soils, but where possible a rich loam should form
the great bulk of the compost for the final potting.
All cultivators, however, cannot procure such
good loam, and must be content with that of a
poor nature. The poor loam, however, can be
improved if it is procured several weeks prior
to the date of using it. First chop it into medium-
sized pieces with a spade, and then reduce it by
hand pulling. Spread it out in an open shed
or in a shady place outside, and pour some rather
strong liquid manure on it— enough to saturate
the whole mass through. Then throw up the
loam to form a conical-shaped heap and cover
it with boards or mats until the time comes
for the final potting. The other ingredients
may with advantage be added to it ten days
before. This is a good plan to adopt with composts,
both rich and poor. The mistake is often made
of chopping the turf into small pieces ; but ex-
perienced growers know the advantage of pulling
the loam to pieces by hand. Avon.
THE TULIP TRIALS AT
WISLEY.
THE second and 'ast meeting of the
joint Tulip Nomenclature Committee
was held at Wisley on May 6 and 7,
when the Cottage and Darwin varieties
were all carefully gone over and the
names put right or noted as correct.
An accurate colour and base description of each
variety is being prepared, and after next season,
when the trials will be repeated, a list will be issued
under the joint auspices of the Royal Horticultural
Society of England and the Bulb Growers' Associa-
tion of Holland. In this there will be a description
of all the Cottage and Darwin varieties, with
illustrations of typical bases and a list of synonyms.
The committee is constituted as under : Dutch
members — Mr. E. H. Krelage, president of the
Dutch Bulb Growers' Association ; Mr. J. Roes,
chairman of the Tulip committee of the Dutch
Bulb Growers' Association ; Mr. Jan de Graaff,
a member of the Council of the Dutch Bulb Growers'
wanted, and should do much to instruct the Tulip-
loving public as to how to recognise the various
types of breeder. Cottage, Darwin, Parrot, &c.
The Tulips at Wisley were in excellent condition,
and it was evident that great pains had been taken
in their culture, or after the trying time of drought,
and then of wind and rain, which they had gone
through, it would have been otherwise. Readers
should make a mental note of the repetition of
these trials next year with the idea of paying them
a visit. It is anticipated that additional lots will
be sent for planting. As there were about four
thousand planted last autumn, which will nearly
all be replanted next autumn, as well as any
fresh ones sent in, there should be a great
display, which it will be worth while anyone
seeing and studying.
MAY -FLOWERING TULIPS.
(Daewins.)
Nicolas van Kampen and Son were celebrated
florists who flourished in Haarlem in the eigh-
teenth century. So wide was their trade that
A VIEW IN THE TULIP TRIAL GROUNDS AT WISLEY.
Association and a member of the Royal Horti-
cultural Society's Daffodil and Tulip committee ;
and Mr. Thomas Hoog, a member of the firm
of G. C. van Tubergen of Haarlem, famous for
the collection of Tulip species. British members —
Mr. E. A. Bowles, chairman of the Royal Horti-
cultural Society's Daffodil and Tulip committee ;
Mr. P. R. Barr, a member of the Royal Horti-
cultural Society's Daffodil and Tulip committee
and of the Council of the Royal National Tulip
Society ; Mr. G. W. Leak, a member of the Royal
Horticultural Society's Dafiodil and Tulip com-
mittee ; Mr. A. D. Hall, the Rev. Joseph Jacob
and Mr. Walter T. Ware, members of the Royal
Horticultural Society's Daffodil and Tulip com-
mittee and of the Council of the Royal National
Tulip Society ; and Mr. C. W. Needham, treasiurer
of the Royal National Tulip Society.
I might also mention that a scheme of garden
classification is under consideration, and it is
proposed to issue this at the same time as the
descriptions and synonyms. Such a scheme is badly
they issued lists of bulbs in Enghsh and French,
as well as in their own language. I have
such a list before me now, dated 1770. It
contains the names and descriptions of all
the Tulips, early and late, in their extensive
collection. It is hardly necessary to say
that these are almost entirely striped or
rectified varieties. A casual remark in the descrip-
tion of an early one named L'AbSme (The Abyss)
tells us what their, feehngs about the self-coloured
or breeder forms were. Here it is : " The breeder
of Hecuba, perfect in every respect, but only a
breeder." " But only a breeder " ; there's con-
temptuousness for you. But so it was, and so
it continued to be until very modern times indeed.
I have seen many illustrations and many lists
of Tulips with descriptions from the time of this
list of van Kampen's up to the present day ; but
it is only within the last thirty or thirty-five years
that the self varieties which we now call " Cottage "
have appeared, and at a later date stiU, the " Dar-
wins." 1 have often puzzled my head to know
276
THE GARDEN.
[May 23, 1914.
how it was that these plain or self-coloured forms
were never valued in the past. I have many
views on the subject, but none quite bears the
test of probability and experience. This is my
latest. I have in bloom now — or I had until
yesterday, May ;r. when by far the worst hail-
storm that I have ever had in Tulip-time visited
my garden — four large beds of old Dutch breeders.
.\5 the result of a h'nt that these were the type
ot iiower thai the Pilgrim Fathers used to cultivate
in the old land befure the Mayflower sailed, my
friend Heer Jan de Graaff ttUs m" that the people
01 the New England States are mad about them.
They are undoubtedly a little sad and duU-loolcing,
and I am now wondering if this can be the key •
to such a remark as " only a breeder." Put
such kinds as Vertumnus, Charles Dickens, General
Ney and Le Grand Conquereur, which are some
of the best of them, side by side with Petrus
Hondius, Famcombe Sanders and Pride of Haarlem,
and ninety-nine people out of a hundred would
prefer the latter for garden decoration on account
of their brighter and gayer colouring.
I find the old saying of every dog having its j
day is, roughly speaking, true of Tulips. Where
they are not wanted for cutting and where there
is no drawing-room to think of, bright pink and ,
lavender and mauve Darwins seem to be the ones
most admired at the present time. Erguste and
Euterpe are always singled out, the first being
a blue mauve, and the second a pink mauve
and rather a larger flower and taUer plant. Both
are very lovely. A third variety of an even more
fascinating shade is the old Cottage Darwin-
looking variety Salaman, with its pure white base
and silvery tone. In its general shape it very
much resembles a Darwin. It is useful for a
succession, as it blooms a week later than the two
mentioned. In the larger and more robust-
looldng deep greys and dark mauves there is the
same difference between the two most often seen.
La Tristesse and Remembrance, as between
Euterpe and Erguste. The first have a more
rosy look in their young state and developing with
age into more of a bicolor, as the three inner
petals take on a pearly grey, which contrasts sharply
with the darker purple of the exterior ones. The
largest and tallest is Ronald Gunn. He looks
as if he had gone to a fancy-dress ball as a billiard
cue. The white tip is characteristic of youth.
With age it either disappears or the grey edges
of the petals develop and it is lost. This is a very
handsome Tulip. Of the real darkies, such as
La Tulipe Noire, Ph. de Commines, Faust, Black
Night and Zulu, none is more effective, nor has any
been more admired with me, than Fra Angelico.
It has a large, round, open flower, and always
looks so rich and glossy. Background is every-
thing to these dusky gentlemen. I have more
than once seen bedding effects marred by this
not having been thought of. There comes to
my mind now a row of bright reds and yellows,
and in their midst unaccountable gaps. Have
there been failmres ? No ; it is only the dark
Ph. de Commines or Leonardo da Vinci that do
not show. As Fra Angelico is one of the earliest
Darwins, I would suggest Faust for a second dark,
or (only I fear the price is high) Ravenswing.
Both are exceedingly handsome, long-shaped
flowers, and contrast wcU with the rounder-
shaped " Fra." Bright pink and cerise shades
have been much noticed this season. I have
only a himdred or so bulbs of the fascinating
Louise de la Valli^re, but no one passed it without
remarking upon its beauty. I call it a warm
soft rose, with just a suspicion of a salmon shade
all over it. Then there is Petrus Hondius, a large
and more open bloom, not quite such a tall grower
and with more carmine in its composition —
exceedingly bright ; in fact, one of the brightest
of aU Darwins. A later bloomer which somewhat
takes after Farncombe Sanders in colour is Galatea.
I have found it very satisfactory in every way —
bright, large and tall.
The scarlet red shades seem down on their luck.
A lovely richly coloured bed of the truly magnifi-
cent City of Haarlem is invariably passed by.
So is Feu Brilliant, and so are Nerine, Scarlet
Beauty, Laurentia and Teddy. And yet the
latter's nearest companion, Maiden's Blush,
a pretty rose pink with a very wide, pronoimced
blush edge, is usually singled out. Another of
these pinky rose bordered varieties that almost
everyone has passed some appreciative remark
upon is La Fiancee. Tall and embonpoint she
stood among her compeers. It seems she must
be noticed even to the very end. I think I have
four of the very best yellow-browns : Gondvink,
the tall, lairge, tortoiseshell-comb coloured one ;
Clio, the nice baked biscuit ; Golden Bronze,
rich gold and brown ; and Quaintness, a some-
what pale-looking brown, with the edges and
the interiors of the petals of quite a yellow shade.
These are among the kinds that are so popular
over in America, and as I am very partial to
them myself, I think it shows Brother Jonathan's
good taste. The dark purples, by which I mean
such varieties as Frans Hals, The Bishop, Jubilee,
Vildng, Moralis, Velvet King, Valentin and The
Giant, seem to be, with the exception of Moralis
and Valentin, redder than usual this spring. I
thought the same one year before, but I am never
able to decide whether it is imagination or reality,
for I know how difficult it is to carry an accurate
impression of colour even from day to day.
Probably Valentin has been more admired than
any other Tulip in my garden. The silvery-
looking bluish purple of its immense flowers,
i borne as they are on long stems, at once catches
the eye, and it keeps on doing it ; it is such a
wonderful laster. Out first, it is still there even
when the Darwin season is far advanced. My
I great favourite, the deep blue purple The Bishop,
attracted everyone last year whenever it was
shown, and was eagerly bought up. There is
nothing with quite the same rich deep blue tone
among the purples, for usually they incline very
much to the red side. Viking is as near to it
in colour as any, but it is more of a bicolor, the
exterior of the inner petals being so much paler
than the outer ones that the solid self look of
The Bishop is wanting. Moralis might almost
be described as a very dark blue. It is so far
away from the red-toned purples that it might well
be put in a class by itself. A dark breeder, by
name Sappho (syn. Regal Purple), is very much
the same colour, and is covered with a similar
bloom, just like the well-known Kirke's Plum.
Everyone should try Moralis, but it must not be
forgotten when assigning it a place that it is one
of the darkest of the darks, and must have suit-
able setting if justice is to be done. The ruby
reds must not be forgotten. They are not magentas
(that most unfortunate colour that no one, or
hardly anyone, likes) ; but they have each of them
a certain amount of blue in their composition.
They range from the splendid old Pride of Haarlem
to the comparatively untaown Jeffries, which
always brings to my mind a parcel of unset pigeons'
blood rubies that I once saw in Rangoff Tara
(syn. William Goldring) is a very old favourite
with me. It has a large flower of a bright ruby
red shade, borne on a plant of medium and quite
sufiicient height. Palisa is the only other one
of this colour group that I will mention. I call
it one of my 1914 finds. It happened in one
place to be next to Sierrad van Flora, and the two
made such a capital and novel combination that
I feel I may suggest it as a possibility for
next season. Both will be found among the
cheaper ones, which is a point in their favour.
The colour of Palisa is a bright-looking, deep-
toned ruby red.
Wall-papers, cloth clothes (for I dare not suggest
that there is the same perplexity among the fair
sex as among us men) and Tulips are all in the
same category when with many spread before U3
it comes to making a final decision. Even now
I want to erase some of what I have just written
and put in other names. I do envy a man who
can choose, such, let me say, as Mr. Leak of
Messrs. R. H. Bath, Limited. He and I were
among those who went to Wisley to judge the
Tulip trials. Although there was not every
Darwin in the world there, the number of those
that were was legion. We both utilised our bit
of breathing-time before we left by quickly going
over them. When the sand was nearly run out,
he surprised me by saying, " I have selected
what I consider the six best." It will probably
interest my readers as much as it did me to know
what a man of such wide experience chose. Ii>
alphabetical order they are as foUow : Alata,.
a warm pink with a lovely blue base ; Andro-
maque, a fine deep cherry crimson ; Anton Mauve,
a taU plant after the type of Ronald Gunn and
Remembrance, but the mauve in the exterior
segments is much redder, while the edges have
the same silvery shade ; Georgia, just missed being
a magenta, and as a woman who has just missed
being pretty is plain, so, vice versa, just missed
magenta means lovely— it has a white base,
and is of the open shape of Bleu Aimable ; Scarlet
Perfection, an eye-opener ; and Venus, a beautiful
old rose with a white base. Joseph Jacob.
A LITTLE - KNOWN ROSE.
One of the most delightful and brilliant coloured
of the Hybrid Perpetual group is, strangely, very
little known ; indeed, I do not know any English-
list that contains it. The name is Frantois Copp6e.
It was raised by Ledechaux and introduced in-
1855. The colour is a brilliant velvety crimson,
a mixture almost of Xavier Olibo and EugAne
Fiirst ; indeed, it somewhat resembles the latter
in form, but has a more fiery scarlet towards the
edges of the petals.
We shall make a great mistake if we allow some
of these old Hybrid Perpetuals to be lost. Whtre-
are there any among the Hybrid Teas Roses to equal
them for colour, form and fulness ? Take our old
favourites Victor Hugo, I.ouis van Houtte and
Charles Lefebvre. Why, they are equal to any-
thing among the Hybrid Teas. Of course, they
do not give us much in the autumn ; but still, they
are superb, and we must retain them at all costs,,
even if they have to be relegated to the spare
garden. A row or two of these gems planted in
the kitchen garden would be of great usefulness
to blend with the yellows and pinks of the Hybrid
Teas when they are culled for the house, and if
they are obtained on the Briar, they will give a.
fine display quite late ; at least, most of the varieties
will do so. D.4NEC.R0FT.
§^t.
GARDEN. 1
—^^-
^X^^
No. 2219.— Vol. LXXVIII.
May 30, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Attendance at the Chelsea Show. — We under-
stand that the attendance at the Chelsea Show
created a record. No fewer than 23,000 persons
paid for admission. When we remember that
there are about twenty-seven thousand Fellows'
tickets available, and that these are used freely
throughout each day, some idea of the total
number of visitors is obtained.
An Early Harebell. — All who have a rock
garden, whether large or small, should include
Steven's Harebell, Campanula Stevenii. It is the
first of the genus to greet us, and the attractive
blue flowers are borne in such profusion as to
almost hide the plant. There is a variety, nana,
which differs very little from the type,
except that the flowers are practically ^
sessile among the leaves. The white
variety also is very beautiful. All must
be planted in well-drained soil.
A Useful Early Border Plant.—
Thalictrum aquilegifolium, the Tufted or
Feathered Columbine, is without doubt
the best of the Meadow Rues. In
flower it is particularly charming, and
is sure to attract attention when seen
in well - established groups, as the
corymbose panicles of creamy purplish
blossoms are very striking, and the
foliage handsome and distinct. There
are several well - marked varieties,
all of which are worthy of cultivation.
They are not particular as to soil, but
should be left alone for a few years.
Pentstemons and Antirrhinums. —
These are to a large extent displacing
the more tender subjects in the adorn-
ment of our flower gardens, and this
is not to be wondered at, seeing they
give a wealth of bloom over such
a long period and can be grown by the
novice. No time should be lost in
getting them into their flowering quar-
ters, as everything depends on a good start. In
planting, do not overcrowd in the bed, otherwise
they cannot produce such handsome spikes as we
associate with these plants.
Ten-Week Stocks and Asters. — These should
now be ready for planting out, and in doing so
it will be advisable to give them a little more
attention than they often receive. We are usually
very careful about attending to the little details
as to the sowing of the seed, but the planting
out is often done in a very haphazard way,
with the result that half the beauty of these
delightful annuals is lost. Should the soil
be of a heavy nature, fork in some light material,
such as old potting soil, and some well-rotted
manure. In planting, select a dull day, and
with this little extra care it is surprising the
difference one gets in the results.
Damage Caused by Lightning at Kew. — Two
trees were struck by lightning during the severe
thunderstorm which swept along the lower
reaches of the Thames Valley on the evening of
May 22. One of the trees was a large Sweet
Chestnut standing near to the stables in the
Arboretum, and the other a Cedar in the Cedar
Avenue near to the Pagoda. In the latter instance
the bark of the tree was stripped in spirals, the
shattered bark and cones being distributed on
the ground around the tree. Two flagstones
A GRECIAN WOODRUFF, ASPERULA SUBEROSA, IN THE ROCK
GARDEN. IT HAS DAINTY FLOWERS OF A PLEASING
PINK SHADE.
in the pathway near to the Japanese Gate were
moved from their positions by lightning, one of
them being turned completely over.
A Grecian Woodruff (Asperula suberosa). —
This beautiful little plant, with dainty pink flowers
and woolly foliage, is well adapted for a dry comer
in the rock garden. Like most other plants
with woolly foliage, it needs protection against
damp, especially during the winter. June is
its month for flowering, but this year, owing to
the spell of warm and dry weather, it is flowering
a little before its time, and many an alpine garden
is all the more interesting owing to the presfnce
of this pretty mountain flower. It is synonymous
with Asperula Athoa.
Growing Tomatoes in the Open. — Plants must
be well hardened before they are set out, and if
showing their first bunch of flowers, so much the
better. The soil should be well prepared and a small
quantity of decayed manure incorporated with
it. If space is available on a south or west wall,
there can be no better position for them.
Our Chelsea Show Number. — We wish to thank
the numerous readers who have written such
highly appreciative letters about our Special
Chelsea Show Number. This special issue was
quickly sold out, but to meet the demand we had
a few extra copies printed. Anyone who failed to
secure one can obtain a copy direct from this
office, post free 2jd, We also thank
th^m for their kind congratulations anent
the judges' award of a silver Flora medal.
The Garden was the only horticultural
paper to receive an award from the
judg'^s.
Sun Roses for Dry, Sunny Banks.—
Few plants are more valuable for such
positions than the Helianthemums, which
are now giving their masses of flowers,
from purest white to deep crimson, with
almost every intermediate shade of
colour imaginable, completely hiding
the foliage and producing such a blaze
of colour as is seldom foimd in any
other class of plant. The warmer the
position the brighter and freer they
flower, and they are ideal subjects for
such places, where the majority of
plants would fail. They are readily
raised from seed or from cuttings.
Royal Gardeners' Orphan Fund.—
At the twenty-sixth annual dinner, held
recently imder the presidency of Baron
Bruno Schroder, the sum of £1,200 was
collected in aid of this very deserving
charity. This is the second highest
amount that has been collected at the
annual dinner. There is reason to think, however,
that further subscriptions wUl be needed to meet
the many distressing cases that are brought
before the committee. Since the election of
candidates in February there are already sixteen
orphans awaiting the help extended by this charity.
The Fund makes an allowance to aid in the mainte-
nance and education of the orphans until they
reach the age of foiurteen years, and assists them
in the purchase of clothing or tools or in providing
apprenticeship fees when they are commencing
to earn their own livelihood. The secretary is
Mr. Brian Wynne, rg, Bedford Chambers, Coven t
Garden, London, to whom all communications,
should be sent.
278
THE GARDEN.
[May 30, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
{The Editor is twt responsible for the opinions
expressed bv correspondents.)
Protecting Gentians with Glass. — 1 also had
very good results from covering the Gentians
as recommended by Mr. R. A. Malby in The
Garden last year. — R. H. H.
Tulip Yellow Rose. — This is a very old double
variety, seemingly derived from Tulipa suaveolens.
At any rate it is sweet-scented ; but its greatest
charm is its colour — like splashes of yellow May
butter. I used not to like it on account of its
flowers being so heavy that they always bent
to the ground. But that failing, like some
others, is not without its compensations, and
the large, sprawling lumps of yellow lying on the
ground are forgiven for their exquisite colour tones,
and in sunny weather they are not at all out of
place in that lowly position. — R. P. Brotherston.
Beautiful Seeds. — As I have been an interested
reader of The Garden for several years, I have
been rather disappointed that mention is seldom
Tulips branched last year, with the exception of
Fashion, which is known to have a leaning that
way. There are no more interesting plants
than these late Tulips, and if anyone is thinking
of going in for them for the first time, let me
suggest that they include in their lists Isabella
and Fashion, for it is most fascinating to watch
the extraordinary change in colour which takes
place in these Tulips during the four weeks that
each flower is out. Some Tuhps fade early, but
these two improve steadily. Another Tulip of
great interest is the mahogany Dom Pedro, which
I saw spoken well of in Country Life last year,
and as a novelty it is well worth having. — (Dr.)
R. C. LowTHER, Grange-over-Sands.
School Shows. — As a result of a recent article
of mine on the subject of school shows, I have
had an interesting communication from the
Chairman of the Grange School Board, Banffshire,
who has initiated a show for the three schools
under the Board somewhat on the lines of our own.
The Grange Show was entirely confined to members
of the Narcissus family. Essays and notes on the
growth of the bulbs, and coloured and black-and-
I do not expect
for the plant from
SEEDS OF CARALLUMA SIMONII. THE SILKY STRANDS ATTACHED TO EACH ARE
VERY BEAUTIFUL AND FORM A READY MEANS OF DISTRIBUTION.
made about Cacti. There must be many lovers of
these curious plants, so I have pleasure in sending
herewith a photograph that 1 have just had taken
of the ripe seed of a succulent plant called
Caralluma Simonii. The blooms are of a dark
brownish colour and shaped like a star. The
plant from which this seed was taken bloomed
in 1912, and last year the pods were formed.
These pods have just opened, revealing a dozen
or so fine silken puffs, one of which I am sending
you. Some of your readers may be interested
in this picture, and I should be glad if you are
able to use it. — Alfred Bentley, 27, Wards
Road, Seven Kings, Essex.
May-Flowering Tulips. — One of my late
Tulip beds has proved of unusual interest this
year, since a large number of the stems have
carried four or three full-sized flovVers. These
include Fashion (4), Jaune d'Qiuf (4), Inglescombe
Pink (3), La MerveiUe (4), Ravcnswing (2), Globe
of Fire (3), Fairy Queen (2), Calypso (2), &c.
Nearly all the Fashion bulbs have three strong
stems, the branch taking place above the leaves.
I daresay this is quite common, but none of these
white sketches of the flowers added interest and
utility to the competition, and were adjuncts which
may be brought in where circumstances permit.
From correspondence between the masters of the
schools and Mr. Pritchard, I cannot help feeling
that the educational side is thrust rather too much
down the children's throats. Overdone, it may
have the diametrically opposite effect to that
which I for one would wish these shows to have,
viz., the fostering or the sowing a love of flowers
for their own sake. I would not like a school
show which is only the Black Currant jam for
the powder. I think, too, it is better to have
several sorts of flowers grown, and not only
Daffodils. If it was Daffodils one year and
Hyacinths the next, it would not be so bad ; but
give me variety. — Joseph Jacob.
Gentiana acaulis Sporting. — As on the occasion
of the recent opening of our spring flower show at
Munich I had the honour of presenting to one of
the Royal Princesses a peculiar flower of Gentiana
acaulis showing the true Bavarian colours, pure
white and blue (lengthways divided), I was much
interested in Mr. R. R. H. Hayes' (Keswick)
note on the above subject,
my sport will prove constant,
which it sprang was gathered as a white-flowering
variety, and it also flowered white last year with
three or four flowers. On watching it this year
it was found to have one flower of the normal
blue, one quite white, excepting the green-speckled
throat, and, lastly, that flower with the two shades
together. 1 have not had the heart to disturb the
plant, as we cannot congratulate ourselves that
G. acaulis has satisfactorily established itself ;
but I hope to find out yet whether all these three
varieties come from the same plant. Following
up my note in your issue for July 26, 1913, page 376,
on " Gentiana vema in Grass," when I reported
a first success of twenty-eight flowering plants
from my annua) sowings, I may briefly state that
this spring there were 114 such, besides innumer-
able small seedling plants, and having scattered
loz. of seeds (which means millions of grains) •
last autumn, I hope I shall live to see the lovely
sight of them flowering yet. — E. Heinrich.
Fragrance in Sweet Peas. — As one who has
grown Sweet Peas for a few years, and who has
chosen the varieties recommended by the National
Sweet Pea Society, as well as others of my own
choice, I can, with regret, bear out what your
correspondent B. W. Lewis says in The Garden
of May 23, page 255, with regard to the loss of
perfume in the newer Sweet Peas. But there
is one Sweet Pea (which I grow for garden decora-
tion and cutting) which stands out clear in front
of all others in good points on my heavy soil.
It is the strongest grower, and gives the largest
bloom (excepting King Manoel) of a pleasing cdour,
four on nearly every stem, which is very long,
and last, but far from least, it possesses a most
delicious perfume. It is the bicolor Mrs. Cuth-
bertson.— H. P. B., Bristol.
Too-Much-Alike Auriculas. — In response to
" Taplow's " request for a list of alpine varieties,
I beg to submit the names of a few selected from
my stock of seventy different named kinds. These
cover a wide range of colours, and have been in
commerce for several years, and should not be
expensive. If so, I would suggest to your corre-
spondent that he joined one of the societies which
make a speciality of this fascinating flower, and
I think he will find the members ever ready to
supply him with a few surplus plants. Gold
centres : Chamoise, Charmer, Duke of York,
Ettrick. General Buller, George Cadbury, J. F.
Kew, Majestic, Muriel, Pluto, Unexpected and
Violet Vanbrugh. Light centres : Admiration,
Argus, J. T. Bennett-Pog, Blue Bell, Phyllis
Douglas, Prince of Tyre, Thetis, Mildred Jay
and Janet. I wish to state that this list includes
some varieties which are not quite up to the
standard required for show purposes, but have
been included on account of their charming colours ;
for instance, Admiration, a lovely shade of porcelain
blue ; and Chamoise, deep apricot. As alpine
varieties make numerous offsets, a good stock
is soon attained. If yovrr correspondent only
requires the plants for decorative purposes, he
should obtain a packet of seeds from Mr. James
Douglas or Messrs. Phillips and Taylor, and he
would get a wonderful range of colouring ; but
some patience is required, as it takes two or three
years to obtain good flowering plants. Some of
the brightest colours come pin-eyed, a seriops defect
in the eye of a judge ; but a place can be found
for them on the rockery or slightly shaded border.
— Lancashire. [We are compc led lo hold over
until next week other interesting correspondence
on this subjec'. — Ed.1
May 30, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
279
Chair Cane for Sweet Peas. — The writer of an
interesting uote in The Garden recently advocated
tlie use of chair cane for training Sweet Peas.
He said it costs 6d. a pound. I can only find
prices running from is. 6d. a pound upwards. —
E. P. Dean.
The Double-Flowered Gorse. — Apart from
the fact that when in bloom this is a really gorgeous
shrub, it has also other highly meritorious features.
The principal one is that it will thrive in dry,
stony soils, even on hot banks where practically
nothing else can be depended upon ; in fact,
under such conditions it is far more floriferous
than in a deeper and richer soil. One especial
point to bear in mind is that the double-flowered
Furze or Gorse very much resents transplanting ;
hence it should be grown in pots till placed in its
permanent quarters. Cuttings put in sandy soil
in a shaded frame in August will soon root. — H. P.
Primula Leddy Pilrig. — The hybrid Primula
called Leddy Pilrig, which obtained a first-class
certificate from the Royal Caledonian Horti-
cultural Society at their spring show on April 29,
is quite a good plant, and rather pleasing with
its whorls of soft rosy flowers. It was raised at
Pilrig House, Edinburgh, by Mr. Robertson,
the gardener there, and its parentage is given as
P. beesiana and P. bulleyana. Some good authori-
ties are disposed to doubt the correctness of this,
but the raiser has doubtless the best knowledge
of the matter, although there are suggestions of
the pulvernlenta " blood " in the appearance of
the plant. The Primula has the foliage of such
plants as P. pulverulenta, P. bulleyana and others,
and looks as if it would prove a free grower and
good bloomer. There are only a few plants in
existence as yet ; but, as it is likely to increase
well by division, it should soon be plentiful. —
S. Arnott.
CytiSUS Daisy Hill. — The note which appeared
on page 241 of The Garden regarding the two
beautiful Brooms (Cytisus prscox and C. albus)
brought to my mind another very pretty variety
which is not often seen, but one which, on account
of its unique and distinctive character, deserves
to be more largely planted than it is. C. Daisy
Hill emanated from that well-known home oi
liardy plants at Newry, Ireland, whence it
takes its name. It is quite distinct in coloration
from any other Brooms of my acquaintance,
being a combination of yellow, rose and violet
crimson, which must be seen to be fully appre-
ciated. In every other respect it resembles the
common yellow Broom, and is equally as hardy
and floriferous. Those interested in these hand-
some, easily grown shrubs and in search of some-
thing novel should secure a plant or two of this
variety, and I feel siure they would be delighted
with the charming effect made by the rather
unusual combination of colours. While on this
subject I would call attention to another choice
Cytisus, which flowers during the late summer
and autumn, at which period its rich golden
blossoms are much appreciated. This is C.
elongatus, a neat, erect-growing shrub of great
beauty, carrying graceful sprays of bloom from
I J feet to 2 feet long. It grows equally as freely
as the other Brooms, but is more neat and compact
in habit. It flowers with lavish profusion and
ripens its seeds freely, thus aft'ording a ready means
of increasing the stock. Both of these shrubs last
year flowered with great freedom in Mr. Brough's
garden at Ochilview, Perth, standing out con-
■ spicuously among the comprehensive collection
of choice shrubs grovro there, — W. L.
Primula floribunda.— Since the advent of
Primula kewensis, one sees very little of Primula
floribunda, though it is, I thuik, so pretty and so
continuous flowering that its merits ought on no
account to be passed over. It is a native of the
Himalayas, and has been grown in this country
for fully thirty years. Grown from seeds, which
is the best way of increase, it forms a rosette-like
tuft of leaves, which soon produces several offsets.
The flower-stems, which in good examples are
numerous, reach a height of about nine inches, and
bear small, bright golden yellow flowers disposed
in whorls. Fresh spikes are continually pushed
up, so that its season of blooming is a very
lengthened one. There is a variety — Isabellina —
in which the flowers are of a paler yellow than those
of the type, but, to my mind at least, it is much
less effective. Seed of P. floribunda ripens freely,
and from this young plants should be raised, as
those obtained from division are much less satis-
factory. Apart from its own intrinsic merit,
P. floribunda is of especial interest as being one
of the reputed parents of P. kewensis, which
originated as an accidental seedling. — H. H.
Our Native Flowers. — It is very interesting to
note how much alike our native flowers are, even
in widely separated districts. I was forcibly
struck with this when reading in The Garden
for May 9 about the fine display of Furze and
Marsh Marigolds near Bournemouth. Here, in
South Ayrshire, we have had very fine shows of
both the above-mentioned plants during the past
fortnight, and the bright blossoms still continve
to beautify the landscape. Another shrub which
is very abundant in this district is the Sloe, or
Blackthorn, and this has been flowering with
lavish profusion this spring, great drifts of snowy
blossoms being in evidence everywhere, the purity
of the blossoms being thrown into bold relief by
the black stems of the shrubs. I have never
seen such a profusion of the woodland Wind-
flower (Anemone uemorosa) as is to be found in
this locality. Myriads of the lovely starry
blossoms are met with everywhere, in sun or shade,
just as numerous as the Daisies in field and glade.
The blue Wood Hyacinth is now opening its
drooping blue bells in the woods ; in many places,
so thickly are they crowded together that nothing
else can grow. The Golden King-cup (Caltha
palustris) is particularly robust this year, probably
because it has had no lack of moisture, Sulphvr
Primroses and blue Forget-me-nots bestud the
hedgerows and brighten the roadsides with their
dainty blossoms, associated with the modest
little Dog Violet {Viola canina). With such a
wealth of beautiful gems among our native flora,
why should travellers risk their lives amid the
Swiss glaciers or Italian earthquakes to see flowers
no prettier and scenery no grander than our
own ? — W. L., South Ayrshire.
"THE GARDEN" PLANNING
AND PLANTING COM-
PETITION.
Our competition for planning and plantmg the
little garden has created widespread interest,
and, judging by the number of letters we have
received, there is a very great demand for good
designs for little gardens. Full particulars of
the competition were published in our issue of
the i8th inst. ; but for the benefit of those who
may not have seen that issue we may briefly
state that we are offering cash prizes of the total
value of £33 I2S,, as well as a number of book
prizes, for the best designs sent in. On page IV.
of this issue we insert the coupon that must be
sent with four penny stamps to cover cost and
postage of the sheets on which the outline plans
are printed, and on which the designs must be
drawn. A number of questions have been raised
relating to the competition, and, as we stated
in our issue of May 18, these questions will be
fully answered in our next number. Those
who have not seen the rules and conditions govern-
ing this competition may secure them by applying
to The Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C, and enclosing
I id. in stamps to cover cost of postage.
THE JAPANESE PLUM
AMERICA.
IN
FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
June 2. — Scottish Horticultural Association
Meeting,
June 3, — -Royal Horticultural Society's Exhibi-
tion.
June 4, — National Hardy Plant Society's Show
at the Royal Horticultural Society's Hall,
Linnean Society Meeting.
June 5, — Dundee Horticultural Association
Meeting.
June 6. — Society Frangaise d'Horticulture
de Londres Meeting.
June 8. — United Horticultural Benefit and
Provident Society's Committee Meeting.
YOUR reference to the Japanese Plum
(Prunus triflora) in April 18 issue,
page 195, and the pessimistic report
of its value as a fruit tree, lead me
to say that this species has had a
striking and peculiar career in America,
It came conspicuously into public notice about
twenty-five years ago, at which time a large number
of varieties were distributed by American nursery-
men. Some of these were direct importations
from Japan, others were seedlings accidentally
picked up in America, while a few were artificial
crosses made by gardeners here. For a time it
seemed that these Japanese Plums wotild super-
sede all others in our commercial orchards, and even
in the gardens of amateurs. Some ten or fifteen
varieties became very popular and were planted
everywhere. In some cases these did prove
a commercial success, at least for the time being.
They proved at least to have many valuable
qualities combined with certain distinct defects.
They are easily propagated, grow rapidly in the
nursery, are easily transplanted to the orchard,
come quickly into bearing, and some of the varieties
yield enormously. They are excellent for preserv-
ing, jelly making, &c., and being of good size and
attractive colour, sell fairly well in the open market.
The trees are, unfortunately, short-lived and
subject to the attacks of insects and diseases.
Many of the varieties which at first promised
well have in the long run proved worthless.
So many disappointments have come from
planting the different varieties that the popu-
larity of this species has now greatly waned.
In the meantime the Japanese Plum has been
extensively used in hybridising. It crosses very
readily with other species — much more readily
than the common garden Plum (Prunus domestica).
In the Central States, where Plums of native
American species are extensively grown, these
hybrids have arisen in large numbers. Several
280
THE GARDEN.
[May 30, 1914.
of these hybrids, especially those between P.
triflora and P, hortulaua, have shown much value
and are being propagated and cultivated on a
considerable scale. It was also found that P.
triflora would cross readily with P. Simonii, and
that the offspring was usually a conspicuously fine
fruit. Varieties of this cross nearly always have
large fruits of solid flesh, which handle well in the
market, though the quality is usually inferior.
Several of these varieties were put on the market
and widely distributed by the nurserymen. For
a time it seemed that they would achieve a com-
mercial career, but at present they have largely
disappeared. There is hardly a more interesting
chapter anywhere in the history of pomology
than the story of the Japanese
Plums in America. They have
had a wide and varied develop-
ment, all the events of which
have taken place so recently that
the facts are well known to nearly
all horticulturists now living.
F. A. Waugh.
Mnssaclnisells Agriciillityal College.
are without farina. The robust scape rises well
above the leaves, and bears an umbel of from
six to ten flowers of a purple colour. It occurs
in the Kurile Islands, and also extends into the
Aleutian and PribUof Islands. It is desirable
that this plant should take the place which the
typical P. nivalis fails to fill properly in our
gardens.
P. japonica (A. Gray). — Described by Asa Gray
as far back as 1857, it was not until 1871 that
this now indispensable Primula was introduced
into our British gardens through the enterprise
of Mr. William Bull. It is impossible to over-
praise this handsome plant, whose tiers of whorled
flowers arc so cffecti\'e in tlic garden. It is
HARDY JAPANESE
PRIMULAS.
J.APAN has made an un-
expectedly small contri-
bution to the hardy
Primulas which are in
cultivation, and, even if
we include those which
are yet to be brought to our
gardens, the known species and
their forms are wonderfully few
•in number. Only eleven species
are native, eight of them endemic.
Coimting microforms which are con-
sidered distinct enough to receive
separate names, there are, in all,
some fourteen distinct named
Japanese Primulas, although, as
usual, all botanists are not pre-
pared to accept this enumeration.
Of those which are in cultiva-
tion, the pride of place must be
given to two species, both of which
have become highly important
garden plants. These are Primula
japonica and Primula Sieboldii,
the latter often known as
P. cortusoides amcena, though
not a form of P. cortusoides of
Linnaeus, which is not Japanese.
No fewer than eight sections of
Professor Bayley Balfour's arrange-
ment of the Primula species
are represented in the few
Japanese Primulas. Taking in alphabetical order,
and dealing with P. Sieboldii imder its proper
name, we come first to
Primula eximia (Greene). — This belongs to
the nivalis section, one containing many charming
Primulas, though represented in Japan solely
by this, which is a microform of P. nivalis (Pallas).
It is a sturdy, robust little plant, with flowers of
a good size when compared with the plant itself.
The authority for the name is Greene, in " Pittonia,"
III. (1897), page 251. This Primula is glabrous
and has oblanceolate or oblong spoon-shaped
leaves, which are entire or minutely crenated,
aciutf or obtuse, and on short petioles. They
THE WHITE-FLOVVERED JAPANESE PRIMULA : P. JAPONICA ALBA
THIS LIKES MOIST SOIL AND SEMI-SHADE.
naturalised in many places in the more open
woods and by the sides of streams and ponds,
and is one of the most valuable of all the hardy
Primulas. A large colony in flower is a sight
well worth seeing. It varies considerably in
colourmg, but the dark purple form is still the
best. The colours range from deep purple to
pink, rose, and almost pure white, though in the
purest varieties I have seen there is always a
coloured ring round the eye. The so-called
improved varieties are no improvement. I have
seen hybrids of P. japonica crossed vrith P. Bulley-
ana, but these are of no use, being simply both
parents practically spoilt — P. japonica with only
a slight trace of P. Bulleyana. It is a native of
Central and Northern Honto, Yezo, and is also
cultivated in Japanese gardens. It is minecessary
to give cultural directions, as it will thrive almost
anywhere, although preferring a moist soil and a
shaded or semi-shaded position. II comes freely
from seeds.
P. Kisoana (Miq.). — Why this has not been
in cultivation in this country is rather a mystery.
It has been grown in Japanese gardens for more
than 200 years. Pax refers it to the section
Fallaces, but undoubtedly Professor Bayley
Balfour is correct in placing it among the Cortu-
soides. It has petiolate leaves, which are rounded,
heart-shaped, also crenate or lobed, while the
whole plant is practically villous-
pubescent. The scape bears from
two to five flowers of a deep
rose colour. It should prove quite
hardy in this country. A native
of South-West Japan.
P. modesta (Bisset et Moore). —
Primula farinosa is represented in
Japan by two plants, although
that known as P. Faurieae, Francli.,
is really only a xeromorph of the
above, which is, therefore, sufficient
to notice at present. Pax con-
siders P. modesta only a sub-
species of P. farinosa, which it
closely resembles ; but the farina
is golden instead of silvery. It is as
hardy as P. farinosa or P. frondosa,
and loves a moist situation. The
flowers are purplish. From Yezo
to Shikoku, and introduced to
cultivation in igii by the Royal
Botanic Gardens, Edinburgli.
P. Reinii (Franch. et Sav.).—
Although not very widely known,
the beautiful little Primula Reinii
of the Fallaces section of Pax and
the Reinii of Balfour has been in
cultivation for some years. Its
hardiness has not been fully tested,
but it deserves a trial at the hands
of lovers of the race. It has petio-
late, hairy foliage, rounded or
kidney-shaped, cordate at the basi',
with scapes a little longer than the
leaves, and bearing an umbel of
from two to six pale violet flowers,
which are large for the size of the
plant. With me this Primula is not
liardy in the open, but 1 can
manage it in a cold frame. The
section Reinii is marked by the
petiolate - rounded leaves, small
calyces and cylindrical
capsules, protruding beyond the
calyx.
P. Sieboldii (E. Morren). — A great deal of
confusion exists in gardens regarding the name
of this plant. It is frequently sold as P. cortu-
soides or as P. c. amcena. P. cortusoides, as already
mentioned, is not Japanese, but Siberian, and
extends in Nature from the Urals to the Altai. This
and P. saxatilis have adpressed calyx segments,
while those of P. Sieboldii are patent. P. Sieboldii
has been in cultiva'tion in Japan for very many
years, and it was known to the botanists of Europe
in 1838, when it was described under the name
of P. cortusoides variety patens, Turcz., by
Turczaninow. In 1873 a cultivated plant was
described by Morren imder the present name
May 30, tgt4.]
THE GARDEN.
281
of p. Sieboldii. It had been yrown m British
gardens before that time, but the date of its intro-
duction is doubtful. It was, however, sent from
Japan to Messrs. James Veitch and Sons by their
collector, Mr. I. G. Veitch, in 1861, under the name
of P. cortusoides. Its natural liabitat appears
to be in moist meadows, but it is best known as
a cultivated plant. Its flowers vary greatly, not
only in colour, but also in size and form. The
colours range from white to rose and purple, and
the shape of the blooms is extremely varied, some
being rounded and others deeply lobed. It is an
easy species to cultivate, but is sometimes lost in
winter from the dormant crowns being over-
looked when the garden is being cultivated. It
is generally hardy. There are numerous garden
varieties of P. Sieboldii.
Other Japanese species of Primulas are
P. JesoEuia, Miq., an unintroduced species allied in
appearance and in its botanical
features to the other Primulas of
the Geranioides section. It is re-
ported to be of little attractive-
ness. Primula tosaensis, Yatabe, of
the Reinii section, will hardly prove
hardy in this country. Some of the
Japanese Cuneifolia section, com-
prising P. cuneifolia, P. hakusanensis,
Franch. ; P. heterodonta, Franch. ;
and P. nipponica, Yatabe, are in
cultivation. P. macrocarpa, Maxim.,
is of purely botanical interest. P.
Miyabeana (Ito et Kawakana) is
from F'ormosa and close to P.
japonica, but has not been intro-
duced here. John Macwatt.
Morclands, Duns.
HARDY
FLOWERS
VASES.
FOR
SOME USEFUL HINTS.
THERE is a feeling against hardy flowers
for vase furnishing, for which there
is no good reason. Over and over
again I have been assured that border
flowers and wild flowers are wanting
in long-standing properties, and that
tlie tender foliage and flo^vers of shrubs and trees are
equally singularly unsatisfactory in that respt ct.
I use all manner of things so long as they are pretty,
and by taking a few precautions have no cause
to join in the cry against any of these. I have
been using the loveliest twigs and branch'.ets of
Morello Cherries, Prunus Pissardii, white-flowered
Transcendant Crab and Tower of Glamis Apple, as
Lay them in a basket for half an hour and after-
wards let them lie on a table till the time to arrange
them comes, and it is no wonder that they last
for only a short time, and sometimes fail to ever look
up or assume their pristine brightness. So impor-
tant is it that some kinds be placed in water that it
is worth while to carry a pail of water and immerse
the stems in it as soon as they are cut. Wild
flowers need much the same treatment ; at any
rate, they should be carried home without delay
and the stems plunged into water, preferably
warm water, tiU they can be arranged. Some
flowers require to be plunged or floated entirely
in water. Of such are the beautiful Helleborus
species, so useful in spring. Improperly treated,
these droop at once. In even a few hours they
become eyesores ; whereas, when thrown into
a tank of water and left at least twelve
liours till the cells are surcharged, tliey last
A BEAUTIFUL HABERLEA.
U.N'TIL a few years ago only one
Haberlea was known to cultivation,
viz., H. rhodopensis, native of the
Rhodope Mountains. This plant
the writer has seen growing in large
patches, mingled with the pure
white form, in cool, shady places
near to the Shipka Pass in Bulgaria.
It is an exquisite plant, and the
flowers resemble those of the
StreptocarpuE, to which it is
related, for both plants belong to
the Natural Order Gesneraceoe.
Ramondias, however, are much
closer relatives to the Haberleas, and
they succeed under similar condi-
tions, viz., on shady banks, packed
between rocks and given a fairly leafy compost. The
new Haberlea named Ferdinandii-Coburgii is a
grand acquisition to the genus, and it was deservedly
granted an award of merit by the Royal Horti-
cultural Society when shown in the early summer
of igii by Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, Kent. .As may
be seen in the accompanying illustration, it has
medium-sized, round leaves, and a very free-
flowering habit. The flowers arc of a bright rosy
colour tinged with pale purple blue and deeply
spotted in the throat. It is hardy, and worthy of
a place in those gardens where littie-known
alpines are cherished. In many gardens Haberleas
and Ramondias are grown with a iair amount of
success between vertical rocks. In nature it is
supposed that the rosettes of leaves which lie flat
against the rocks aie thus protected against injury
by falling debris from above. C Q.
HABERLE.\ FERDINANDII-COBURGII, FLOWERS BRIGHT ROSY BLUE.
well as of Apples of various shades of pink, though
I find the pretty Pyrus floribunda rather fugacious
and the buds prettier than the flowers. Deutzias
are now in, Banksia Roses in long sulphur
ropes, and Spiraea van Houttei and others, with
bronze-leaved Oaks and thinnings of coloured
Rose shoots.
Exceedingly beautiful are the single Tree Pceonies,
which range in colour from white to crimson and
salmon-tinted flowers of exquisite beauty. These
and many others last well if, when cut, they are
with the least possible delay plunged deeply into
water. But what usually occurs is to carry them
about or lay them down long enough for the sap
to have evaporated so much that incipient wither-
ing sets in, after which the chance of the flowers
and foliage lasting is reduced to the limit. Exactly
the same thing happens with border flowers.
a week. I have known them to stand in a
cold room for a fortnight if given a second
immersion.
There is yet another important point to be
observed in selecting border flowers ; that is
their age. I once used a quantity of Michaehnas
Daisies to decorate a chiurch, and was warned
that they would not stand over the Sunday.
The lady who had gained this experience with
Asters had forgotten to choose young flowers
or those that had not been fertilised by insects,
and so it happened that those she deprecated
the use of, being yoimg, stood perfectly, thougli
they had the extra compensation of having been
plunged in water for hours after picking. The
advantage of using only young flowers has fre-
quently been noticed, and with bulbous plants
it is usually carried out. R, P, Brothersion,
282
THE GARDEN.
[May 30, iql4
ROSE-GROWING IN TOWN
GARDENS.
NOTES ON EXHIBITING.
Shading. — Rose shades are usually made of
material that is impervious to light, but it is a
mistake to imagine that all blooms will improve
in colour from being kept in the dark. Many
varieties will only attain their full colouring
under the direct rays of the sun. Generally these
are in the Tea class, or closely allied to it, Roses
which have sprung from natives of a warmer
cUme. They are impatient of wet and frequently
slow in opening, so that they need protection
rather than shading. Excess of
sunshine will completely spoil
the colour of many other kinds,
such, for instance, as some of
the Penietiana type, those of
delicate shades of yellow and
pink, and most of the red Roses,
lu the case of these it is well to
supplement the shades by gum-
ming tissue paper round the rims,
allowing it to project a few inches
underneath. A great deal may be
done with the shades to retard a
Rose's development, often a matter
of importance at show-time ; but
in judging beforehand the length
of time a bloom will take to ex-
pand, the exhibitor has one of his
hardest tasks, and this can bi-
learned only by studying the
habits of each individual kind,
noting whether it is slow or
quick in imfolding its petals, and
then, as often as not, a change
in the weather will upset all one's
calculations. As the blooms ex-
pand, greater care in spraying
becomes necessary. Insecticides
should be avoided temporarily
and green fly removed by hand.
On warm evenings syringing over-
head with lukewarm water is very
beneficial, but this is not advisable
when the weather is cold. The
hoe must be kept constantly at
work, and this should always be the
Rose-grower's chief implement.
Tying and Dressing the Blooms.
In the dressing of the blooms many
points may be gained or lost, and
the would-be exhibitor should prac-
tise it as much as possible soine
time in advance of the exhibition.
The first step is to tie the flowers
round the centre with white wool,
the kind that is known as double Berlin being the
best for this purpose. It should be cut into lengths
of about nine inches, and the fastening is done by a
double twist of the wool, which prevents it from
slipping and allows of it being loosened when neces-
sary. On no accotmt should it be knotted. Generally
speaking, it is of no use to keep a bloom tied
for more than three or four days ; but this depends
upon the variety and the weather. In a hot spell
many Roses will fly open and become useless in
three days, which during a cooler period might
often be kept in good form for a day or so longer.
Full flowers may sometimes be restrained for a
week. The more backward blooms will be tied
only a day or two before the show, and most of
GOOD ROSES WITH
FULL FLOWERS.
w
HILE it must generally Ik'
admitted that a large majority
of the newer Roses are of very
wonderful colouring, and are
most beautiful from an artistic
point of view, it is also a fact
[primula
these will assutne a better and more natural shape , CQM E
if the guard petals are allowed to fall before the '
ties are placed in position round the second row
of petals. Others it may not be necessar\' to tie
at all, but these will be slow-opening kinds which
are just caught right and can be trusted not to
" fly." Experience is the best guide, and the
grower should study his Roses and practise with
them before the show-time arrives. The actual
dressing of the blooms is performed on the show
bench after the tie is removed, the last thing before I that a great many of them are what one might
the judging. call " thin " in build ; that is to say, the petals
It ought to be done with a large camel-hair brush, are few in number. These thin Roses are very
and should consist mainly in arranging the outer useful when'used for massing in large beds, where
row of petals. These ought to be gently pushed ' the individual bloom is not of so much accomit
as is the general effect produced
by the mass, and they are also
very lovely in the bud stage ; but
I have found that there are many
Rose fanciers, especially among
those with limited space at their
disposal, who will have nothing
to do with this class of Rose,
and will only cultivate those
varieties which might be termed
" solid." A bloom of one of these
more double Roses will keep
shapely for a very much longer
period than the thin type, either
on the bush or when cut. To
search through Rose catalogues
in quest of these varieties with
good lasting qualities is not only
a long and tedious task, but often
ends in utter failure, growers
being disappointed to find that
many a so-called double Rose
turns out to be far from " solid."
Such searchers will, I hope, find
the following list helpful and
reliable. All the varieties men-
tioned are good garden Roses
and strong growers.
Mrs. Foley Hobbs, one of the
liiust recently introduced Teas,
bears large and perfectly formed
flowers of delicate ivory wliito,
and is very free both in growth
and flowering.
Molly Sharman Crawford (T.)
i> m the bud a delicate oau dc
nil white, and pure white in the
full bloom. A good upriglit
grower with beautiful foliage.
Mayflower (H.T.) is one of
the best of the newer cream
Roses, the pink tints suffusing the
petals giving it a charming effect.
Excellenz M. Schmidt Metzler
is a grand addition to the
Hybrid Teas, the blooms being of
wonderful size and quality.
Entente Cordiale (Pernet-Ducher, H.T.) is
a lovely creamy white, tinted with carmine. It
is rather small in growth, but quite liardy and
remarkably free-flowering.
Wm. R. Smith is a vigorous-growing Tea ol
great beauty. It is creamy white, tinted with
pink and violet.
Mrs. Arthur Munt (H.T.) is very similar to
the foregoing, but a little deeper in colour, especially
in the autumn, when it is often quite a deep peach.
Mrs. Harold Brocklebanls (H.T.) is a most
persistent bloomer of good upright habit. The
blooms are creamy white, the outer petals tinted
FARINOSA GROUPED IN THE ROCK GARDEN SHOWN
BY MR. J. WOOD AT CHELSEA LAST WEEK.
back, but on no account should they be turned snow white
inside out in an endeavour to keep them open,
as is sometimes done. This is " overdressing,"
and should disqualify a bloom. The arrangement
of the boxes must be carefully thought out, care
being taken to afford as much contrast as possible
by keeping apart Roses of similar colouring. Dark
reds are always valuable, and these are usually
scarce ; but one or more should be included
if possible, even if of slightly smaller size than
others that are available. The largest blooms
must be in the back row, the smallest in front.
As many spare blooms as possible should be
taken, so that those which show a split centre
may be discarded. P. L. Goddard.
May 30, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
28fi
salmon rose and the centre buff. One ol the best
garden Roses.
Alexander Hill Gray (T.) is the best of the
newer yellow Teas, being most prolific and a
tine grower. The rich lemon yellow flowers
deepen as they expand.
i Natalie Bottner (H.T.), called by some the
Yellow' Druschki, is, I am glad to say, much j making it a very striking Woom
fuller than its namesake. The soft creamy blooms , Essex.
are very pleasing, but open badly in damp weather. ] ^_^^^^^_^^^_^_
Miss Alice de Rothschild (T.) is well described
as a dwarf Marechal Niel, the deep citron yellow
blooms being very similar to that old favourite
Rose.
Sunburst has, since its introduction in 1912,
won a great name for itself. In colour it is
George Dickson (H.T.) is a truly marvellous
Rose. The velvety black crimson blooms are of
immense size and finely built. Its only fault
is that it hangs its head.
Earl of Gosford (H.T.) is in general appearance
not unlike the old favourite Victor Hugo, the
heavy black shadings on the crimson ground
W. A. E.
NOTES ON VIBURNUMS.
The Japanese Snowball Tree (Viburnum plicatum)
is now flowering to perfection in many Enghsh
gardens. A large bush clothed with clusters of
variable, some blooms being very light cadmium ! white flowers resembling those of the Guelder Rose
yellow, while others are deep orange yellow, 1 is indeed a wonderful sight. It is easily one of
cither shade being very beautiful.
The blooms are exceedingly long.
Frau Oberhofgartner Piecq (H.T.)
is a new yellow Rose of great merit,
and as an exhibition flower will be
sure to make good headway, the
golden yellow Hybrid Teas being
hard to find.
Duchess of Normandy (H.T.) is
a salmon flesh sport of Dean Hole,
and as an all-round Rose should
mn as good a reputation as its
forbear.
Mrs. Geo. Shawyer is a fine,
vigorous Hybrid Tea of great value.
The clear rose-colotured flowers,
although very large and full, are
carried on erect stems.
Margaret (H.T.) should be i:;
every Rose-lover's garden, for the
clear soft pink flowers are perfect in
every way and produced in profu-
sion. It is an ideal town Rose.
[We find this mildews badly. — Ed.]
Desdemona (H.T.) is a decided
advance in the light pink section,
the rosy opaque flowers being very
large and full.
Countess of Shaftesbury (H.T.)
is, I think, one of the most lovely
pink Roses. The exquisitely formed
silver pink blooms are invaluable
for cutting, and are produced in
abundance the season through.
Duchess of Westminster, a clear
madder rose, sometimes attains to
a remarkable size of bloom, and is
a very distinct novelty.
St. Helena (H.T.), besides being of good size
and form, is sweetly scented. The upright flowers
are pink on a cream ground, and ire very
handsome.
Lady Alice Stanley (H.T.) is a grand bedding
variety. The coral rose blooms are produced in
clusters, but each is of large size and good shape.
Mrs. Wallace H. Rowe (H.T.) is of very novel
and distinct colouring, being a peculiar mauve,
but very pretty.
Jonkheer J. L. Mock (H.T.) is a finely built
Rose with very high centre. The petals outside
are bright cherry red, inside silvery white, and
when true to colour it is most effective ; but,
unfortunately, it often comes very dull, and is,
in fact, quite disagreeable.
THE BEST CONIFERS FOR
LAWNS.
I
N the pure air of the country, where soil
and climatic conditions are alike favourable
for the growth of conifers, a number o'
species may be included among the most
useful trees for lawn specimens. They
grow vigorously, form shapely plants,
and the leaves of the evergreen kinds are attrac-
tive throughout the year. Ideal conditions for
conifers are found in the South and West Counties
of England, throughout Wales, the greater part
of Scotland, and Ireland. Anywhere, in fad,
where the ground is naturally moist and climulic
conditions are on the moist side and tlie atmo-
sphere is pure, they may be expected to succeed.
VIBURNUM RHYTIDOPHYLLUM,
RARE HARDY SHRUB FROM
GUELDER ROSE FAMILY
IT BELONGS TO THE
the six most beautiful shrubs for English gardens.
There are other delightful members of this
family, and of them our native Wayfaring
Tree is one of the most popular. It is often
seen in the wild state scattered here and
there on the outskirts of the woodland or as
a roadside shrub. It is common in our hedge-
rows, but none the less beautiful, and grows
freely in almost any soil, especially on hillisdes
overlying chalk.
From Central China comes the little-known
Viburnum rhytidophyllum, destined to be a very
popular wall shrub in the course of time. The
creamy white flowers are borne in large heads
during May. The illustration on this page shows
a remarkably fine plant flowering freely on a
G. C. Waud (H.T.) is a most brilliant Rose, south wall at Kew. In the same garden it has been
a glowing orange vermilion, and its colour is very i grown in open beds, but here the result is not
lasting. I nearly so satisfactory.
But there are places where the conditions are
less favourable, and still good coniferous trees
are grown, as may be seen in the drier parts of the
Eastern Counties. The most imsatisfactory con-
ditions are impure atmosphere and very heavy
and chalky soils. Anyone who is intimate with
the climatic conditions of such counties as Devon-
shire and Perthshire will recognise at once the
peculiarities of climate which tend to produce
the best conifers. A mature
Cedar of Lebanon is always recognised as a
decided asset to a large garden, especially when
the garden surrounds an ancient house ; but,
unfortunately, such trees have sometimes been
placed in positions where they interfere with the
building or are crowded by other trees. This
being the case, anyone who contemplates planting
such a wide-spreading tree should ascertain first
that it will have sufficient room to develop to its
284
THE GARDEN.
(Way 30, 1914.
PRIMULA SECUXDIFLORA, A BEAUTIFUL XHW HARDY SPECIES
FROM CHINA. IT HAS WINE-RED ILOWFRS.
fullest extent without crowding other subjects.
But planters would be well advised to select the
glaucous variety of the Atlas Cedar (Cedrus
atlantica glauca) in preference to the Lebanon
Cedar, for it is a decidedly more beautiful tree,
especially when young. The Deodar (C. Deodara),
too, is a suitable tree to plant in the Southern
Counties, but is generally less hardy than the
other kinds.
The Incense Cedar (Libocedrus decurrens)
is another decorative tree. Its beauty, however,
plenty of room for
development. Its
irregular outline fits
it better for garden
decoration than the
more formal, conical
habit of S. gigantea.
.A. position for the
latter tree needs
selecting with con-
siderable care. As
a rule, a sheltered
corner somewhat
apart from the lawn
is more suitable than
a conspicuous posi-
tion.
The Umbrella
Pine of Japan
(Sriadopitys verti-
cillata) is well fitted
for a position where
space is limited, for
it grows less rapidly
than many other
kinds and takes
many years in at-
taining a height of
20 feet. Its' deep
green, fiat leaves are
arranged after the
fashion of the ribs
of an umbrella ;
lienee tlie common
name.
Pseudolarix
Kaempferi is a rare
liX'c witli dtcidnuus
leaves. Its light
green fuIiagjL' is coi>
spic.uous through-
out the summer,
but is most attrac-
tive during the
autumn, for at that
period it turns to
For this reason it is called the
.\i;othcr handsome deciduous
a golden colour.
Golden Larch,
conifer is found in
The Maidenhair Tree (Ginkgo biloba). Thib
grows quite 70 feet high, and is easily recognised
by reason of its wide, flat leaves, which bear a
resemblance to a gigantic pinnule of a Maidenhair
Fern.
Saxegothea conspicua is only suitable for the
warmer parts of the coimtry, but in the few places
where it thrives it forms a remarkably hand-
centres in its stiff, columnar habit. It takes up some plant. Of very graceful outline, the branches
little room, but its full beauty can only be seen I are well clothed with Yew-Uke leaves, which are
when it stands quite clear of other trees. It may 1 less sombre in appearance than those of the common
attain a height of 40 feet or 50 feet. | Yew.
The Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga Douglasii) j Cupressus lawsoniana forms a beautiful tree
and its glaucous-leaved form grow into majestic when placed in an open position, while many of
trees 70 feet to 80 feet or 100 feet high, furnished
witli branches from base to summit, in those places
where suitable conditions prevail. But they
must have shelter, otherwise their tops are liable
to be broken. The bottom or lower slopes of a
moderately deep valley often offer an ideal home.
Such trees must be given ample space, for they arc
only seen at their best when standing quite clear
of other vegetation.
The Redwood of California (Sequoia semper-
virens) is another tree which is only seen at its
best when planted in a sheltered situation with
its varieties are equally, if not more, attractive.
Good ones are glauca. Silver Queen, intertexta,
gracilis aurea and lutea, The juvenile or plumosa
forms of C. pisifera are also very beautiful, plumosa
aurea and sulphurea being very suitable for small
gardens. The true Cypresses, such as Cupressus
sempervirens, C. lusitanica, C. macrocarpa and
other kinds, are all fine trees when at their best,
but they are only suitable for the warmer counties.
Thuya plicata, or T. gigantea as it is often
called, usually grows into a shapely specimen,
althougli there i» a tendency for the branches to
become thin about the top. T. orientalis, on the
other hand, forms a dense bush or tree up to
20 feet or more high. The best of the
Hemlock Spruces for general planting is Tsuga
mertensiana. It is of vigorous habit and graceful
outline, and succeeds throughout the country.
T. pattoniana and T. brunoniana are also very
beautiful trees, but their culture must be restricted
to the warmer counties. Among the Spruces,
the blue or glaucous leaved form of Picea pungens
is one of the most beautiful. It is quite hardy,
but is sometimes attacked by a leaf-castinj;
disease. Other decorative Spruces are P. Omorica
and P. Morinda,
The Firs or Abies offer many representatives.
A. amabilis iuid .V, nobilis are very showy when
at their best, but they are subject to a disfiguring
disease which frequently cripples them to a serious
extent. A. lowiana, A. concolor, A. brachy-
phylla and A. Pinsapo are all decorative kinds.
.^mong the Pines, Pinus Pinea, P. excelsa, I'.
Cembra, P. Coulteri and P. ponderosa may be
selected as a representative set. D.
VIOLA GRACILIS BLUEJACKET.
Bluejacket is the deep blue form of Viola gracilis,
differing from the purple blossoms of the typical
gracilis in a truly delightful manner. The flowers
are, if anything, even smaller than gracihs, being
idenlical in size and in habit of growth to the
exquisite little sulphur yellow Marjorie, which
is becoming such a favourite garden subject.
The deep blue of Bluejacket contrasts exquisitely
with either Marjorie or Golden Fleece (a deeper
yellow form), and as it produces its flowers just as
prcfurely, there is no reason why it should not bo : s
freely used as the type. We use it in quantity
here in the gardens at Holland House and like it
immensely, and purpose raising a large stock for
spring bedding as well as for further decorative
effects on the slopes of the rock garden. Such
floriferousness, allied with the 4warf tiny foliage
and the large Violet -like blossoms, combine
to make Bluejacket an ideal spring flower. It
is truly perpetual ; summer drought has no
terrors for it, for plants burnt down to the ground-
level in a dry season will come up fresh and green
with the early rains and re-cstabbsh themselves
in readiness for another flowering season.
PKIMULA JAPONICA SANGUINEA.
The true sanguinea variety of Primula japonica
seems even now to be a somewhat scarce plant
in gardens. At its best it is fully equal to the
grand P. pulverulenta for effect. It is not quite
so graceful as P. pulverulenta, but the colotiring
is so rich and brilliant that it would be well if
this sterhng Primula was grown in very large
quantities. Even if only a smaU grouping is
secured for a water-side effect or for a cool spot
elsewhere in the garden, sanguinea will prove a
very attractive subject. It would be a good tliiug
for the popularity of the best forms of P. japonica
if all the poorer and mottled varieties and seedhngs
were entirely swept out of gardens, leaving a clear
field for the superior selected self colours. If
one could ensure that the best pink, rose, scarlet-
red, and crimson shades were selected and per-
petuated and all th« inferior forms discarded,
then sanguinea and the other rich forms of japonica
would rise to a higher level in garden appreciation,
and we should get more of the beautiful Primula
colour drifts which are such an acquisition to the
informal garden.
Clacton-on-Sca. 1'. S. Havwaku.
May 30, 1914]
THE GARDEN.
285
NEW AND RARE PLANTS
AT THE CHELSEA SHOW.
FIRST-CLASS CERTIFICATE.
Adiantum grossum. — A handsome cvergieen
sub-erect species from Tropical America, which,
comparatively, might be refeixed to A. niacro-
phylla, with much more rounded pinnae. The
exhibited example was nearly two feet high,
displaying vigour and freedom of growth. From
Messrs. H. B. May and Sons, Edmonton.
AWARDS OF MERIT.
Platycerium Cordreyi. — By reason of the
■rarity of garden forms of this genus, apart from
the intrinsic merit of the variety, this would appear
to have deserved " first-class " rank, an honour
probably yet in store. It has been evolved from
P. Alcicome, the hoary fronds of 2 feet or more
in length considerably ornamented by the deep
fingered lobes at their apices. We regard it as an
acquisition as well as an addition to the Fern
tribe.
Pteris flabellata pliimosa. — This, if not of the
plumose density of some of the Nephrolepises, is
at least a remarkable variation, and if sporting
should follow, might prove invaluable to the
gardener and decorator. These came from Messrs.
H. B. May and Sons, Edmonton.
Calceolaria Stewartii. — This is a golden yellow
flowered variety, its outstanding features freedom
of blossoming and the hall-mark of general utility.
As exhibited, the plants were not more than
r foot high, the pouches of comparatively large
size. From Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Chelsea.
Adiantum gloriosum Lemkesii. — Obviously
a Farleyense form with more crested pinns, the
mass of young fronds rising from the centre of
the plant being coloured a warm reddish tone.
A graceful and beautiful variety, of which a nice
group was on view. Shown by Messrs. Lemkes
and Sons, Alphen, Holland.
Campanula tomentosa Maud Landale.~A
pretty variety of this biennial Bell-flower, the bluish
erect bells appearing from the axils of woolly
stems and leaves. Shown by Miss Maud Landa'e,
Limpsfield.
Begonia Lady Carew. — A double-flowered,
tuberous-rooted variety, having rose - coloured
flowers in huge rosettes of 6 inches or so across.
The shade of colour is very bright and effective.
From Messrs. Blackmore and Langdon, Bath.
Primula secundiflora. — A remarkably beautiful
novelty discovered by Mr. Forrest when collecting
in China for Messrs. Bees. It was found on the
Lichiang Range at an altitude of some 13,000 feet,
and the photographs taken by Mr. Forrest on
the spot depict a plant of considerable freedom
of flowering. Botanists look upon it as identical
with P. vittata, but it is quite distinct from the
plant usually recognised as such, and vastly superior.
For gardening purposes and to give our readers
an idea of the plant, it might not inaptly be com-
pared to a red-flowered P. sikkimensis, the colour
a rich wine red. It is a moisture-loving plant.
Shown by Messrs. Bees, Liverpool. See illustration
on page 284.
Oxalis adenopbylla. — This charming species,
with many-lobed, glaucous leaves and rose-
coloured flowers, was shown by Messrs. Bees,
Liverpool, and Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston. It is
one of the choicest of rock garden plants, meriting
all care.
Ptnguicula reuteriana. — A dehghtful novelty
from the Alps of Dauphin y. The peduncles are
4 inches or so high, one-flowered, the rosy pink
lined flowers pretty in the extreme. From Mr.
G. Reuthe, Keston, Kent.
Carnation Scarlet Carola. This is a counter-
part of the original crimson variety in all save
colour, which is self-descriptive. It is a bold
and striking variety. From Mr. C. Engelraann,
Saffron Walden.
Iris Gold Crest (I. pallida x I. Cengiaiti). —
The grr iter leaning of the variety is towards
the first -named parent, the flowers some-
what modified in size and more compactly built.
The colour, a bright, lustrous violet blue, is very
fine ; the gold beard or crest, which justifies to
some extent the name, very pronounced. Raised
and exhibited by Mr. W. Rickarton Dykes,
Charterhouse, Godalraing. See illustration be!ow.
Clematis Empress of India. — .A very beautiful
addition to the race. The handsome flowers are
coloured a rosy mauve with lilac shading. Doubt-
less in the open the richer colour would be enhanced.
From Messrs. George
Jackman and Son?,
Woking.
Telopea speciosis-
sima (Waratah). — .\
h,andsome inflores-
cence of this rarely
seen .Australian shrub
was shown by the
Rev. A. T. Boscawen,
Ludgvan Rectory,
Long Rock, Corn
wall. The flowers,
arranged in a dense,
conical head, are
tubular and coloured
a reddish scarlet, the
crenated leaves not
unlike those of Ardisia
crenulata, but
longer and even more
coriaceous and shin-
ing. Its flowering in
this country is some-
what rare. A cultural
commendation was
also awarded to the
exhibitor.
Pittosporum Mayi
Silver Queen was
exhibited by the
Donard Nursery
Company, Newcastle,
County Down. It is
a pretty variety, with
silvery variegated
foliage shown to ad-
vantage against the
almost black, wiry
stems.
' Charlesworth and Co., Hayward's Heath ; Miltonia
vexillaria Solum and Miltonia vexillaria Laelia
Sander, both shown by Messrs. Sander and Sons,
St. Albans ; Laslio-Cattleya Medina Excelsior,
exhibited by Messrs. Flory and Black, Slough ;
Laclio-Cattleya haroldiana Bronze King, from
Messrs. S. Low and Co., Enfield ; Miltonia Princess
Victoria Alexandra, from M. C. Vuylsteke, Ghent ;
and Odontioda Bradshawias Perfection, shown by
Messrs. J. and A, McBean, Cooksbridge.
Awards of Merit. — Brasso-Cattleya shilliana
and Odontoglossum Chanticleer, from Messrs.
Armstrong and Brown, Tunbridge Wells ; Lffilio-
Cattleya Fascinator Mossiae Purity, Odontoglossum
Dusky Monarch and Lffilio-Cattleya Sunstar,
shown by Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Hay-
ward's Heath ; Odontonia Roger Sander and
Cattleya Magali Sander, exhibited by Messrs.
Sander and Sons, St. Albans ; Cymbidium Venus,
from Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Enfield ; and
Miltonia .\donis and Odontioda Prince de Galles,
shown by M. C. Vuy'stekc, Ghent.
NEW ORCHIDS.
First - Class Cer-
tificates. — Miltonj.i
The Baroness and
Miltonia J. Gurne>-
Fowler, both shown
by Messrs. Armstrong
and Brown, Tun-
bridge Wells;
Odontoglossum
Queen .\lexandrina,
from Messrs.
IRIS GOLD CREST, A
CHARMING NEW HYBRID SHOWN BY MR.
W. R. DYKES.
286
THE GARDEN.
[May 30, 1014.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
Late Peach Trees. — The fruits on these trees
require their final thinning. Select the fruits
which are best placed with regard to sun, and
remove some of the leaves from those which
it may be necessary to leave under the wires.
The aim of the cultivator should be to leave the
fruits evenly distributed over the tree and as
many of them on the upper side of the tree as
possible, and due regard must be paid to the
nature and condition of each tree in deciding how
many fruits they are to carry.
The Orchard-House. — Apple and Pear trees
in pots require careful attention. The pots have
now become well filled with roots, and conse-
quentlv more water and stimulants will be neces-
sary. Examine them several times daily, and
give sufficient water when necessary to thoroughly
soak the ball of soil. As soon as the crop is
sufficiently advanced, a careful thinning of the
fruits should take place, removing all deformed
and worthless fruits first.
Plants Under Glass.
Pot Roses. — Most of the plants will have
finished flowering, and should be removed to their
summer quarters, where the pots may be half
plunged in ashes at a sufficient distance apart
to permit sun and air to pass freely among them.
It often happens that these plants are neglected
after the flowering period is over, and conse-
quently the flowers are of an inferior quality
the following season. Give frequent waterings
with liquid manure, and keep a sharp look-out
for aphis and mildew, which must be checked as
soon as possible. The buds should be removed
from all shy-growing plants, in order to build them
up and prepare them for next season's forcing.
Calceolarias. — These are valuable plants for
the conservatory, and to have them in flower
early it is necessary to sow the seeds about this
date. Sow in well-drained pans of fine soil and
cover the seeds very lightly. Cover the pans
with sheets of glass and place them in a close,
cool pit. When the young plants are through
the surface, they must be placed quite near the
roof glass, but never be exposed to the full glare
of the sun. Pot as soon as large enough, and
never allow them to become pot-bound until thev
are placed in their flowering pots.
Humea elegans. — Now is a good time to sow
seeds of this beautiful plant for the decoration
of the conservatory or flower garden the following
season. Sow in light, sandy soil and protect
from sun.
The Flower Garden.
Sweet Peas. — The latest batch of plants which
have been raised in pots should be planted out
as soon as possible in ground which has been
thoroughly prepared for them, and a sowing
may be made in the open garden to produce blooms
in the autumn. The early batch of plants will
benefit I)v mulching with decayed manure.
Mignonette. — A good sowing should be made
now to produce blooms in August and September.
Sow in a cool position and make the soil moderately
firm. When the plants are large enough to handle,
they should be freely thinned, and they must
never be allowed to suffer from want of moisture
at the roots.
Climbing Plants. — -Attend to the requirements
of all climbing plants at regular intervals, keep-
ing them well thinned out so that those which
remain may be trained in a free and natural
manner. Clematises and Loniceras are among the
first to become entangled, and, unless they are
kept well within bounds, they will soon be ruined
for the season. Climbing Roses must also be
kept well thinned out, and the shoots from the
base of the plants secured in such a manner that
they will not be broken by rough wind. Insect
l^ests should be carefully watched for and
destroyed as soon as possible. If dry weather
|)revails, a mulching of farmyard manure ought to
lie placed o\'er the roots to prevent evaporatiftn.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Cherry Trees. — Most of the trees have set a
good crop this season, and in many cases the fruits
will require thinning if the finest quality is desired ;
but this should be carefully performed, and not
too freely until the fruits begin to swell. Keep
a sharp look-out for black fly, which is often
troublesome, especially during cold weather.
Maggots are also troublesome, and must be de-
stroyed as soon as noticed. Do not allow the
foliage to become overcrowded for want of dis-
budding. A good mulching of decayed manure
may be given to trees which are exposed to the
sun. As soon as the fruits begin to colour,
protection from birds must be provided.
Early Strawberries. — The earliest plants grow-
ing on sheltered borders are now swelling their
fruit, and they will benefit by a watering of w'eak
liquid manure, which should be carefully applied
to the roots without coming in contact with the
fruit or foliage. If good specimens are desired, a
careful thinning of the fruits must be done.
Protect the crop from birds as soon as colouring
commences.
The Kitchen Garden.
Peas. — To produce Peas throughout the autumn,
weekly sowings should be made from this date
to the middle of June, and, if possible, the ground
for these sowings should have been trenched and
manured for the purpose. Deep cultivation is
the best means of avoiding mildew, which often
proves troublesome during the autumn. The
Pea is a gross-feeding plant, and should receive
a liberal supply of moisture at the roots through
August and September. The space between the
rows should be mulched with farmyard manure.
Distinction, Autocrat and Rearguard are good
varieties for this purpose, and seldom suffer from
the attacks of mildew. Midseason Peas should
be staked as soon as the plants are a few inches
high. Water and mulch freely if the weather
is dry.
Early Carrots. — Let these be thinned as soon
as possible, and keep the hoe at work between
the rows. Sow again for use during the autumn.
The latest batch intended to furnish supplies
through the winter and spring may be sown about
the middle of June. At Frogmore our largest
sowing is made in June, and these roots generally
escape the Carrot fly or maggot.
Vegetable Marrows may now be planted in
the open and protected from frost or rough wind.
Plants in pits should be kept well thinned out
and watered freely with liquid manure.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Lettuce. — From this date sowings had better be
made where the plants are to remain, as planting
out the thinnings in hot weather entails a good deal
of work in keeping them supplied with water.
Care should be taken to sow thinly, and when the
young plants are about three inches high, thin
out to at least 9 inches apart. This will apply
more particularly to the Cabbage sorts.
Peas. — In cold districts it will be advisable in
sowing Peas from now till the middle of June to
sow some of the earlier sorts. These late sowings
are sometimes not very satisfactory, as they
suffer from mildew, so that it will be necessary
to give them a little extra care and attention.
Select a piece of ground that is partially shaded
from the direct rays of the sun, and see that they
do not suffer from drought.
Carrots. — Maincrop Carrots will now require
thinning, and, as advised for the earlier sorts, this
work should be done in showery weather. Where
wireworms and the Carrot maggot are trouble-
some, put some mowings from the lawn between
the rows, and repeat this from time to time imtil
all danger is past.
Kidney Beans. — The main crop should now be
sown, and as this is naturally the most important,
a good position shoifld be selected. One of the
great evils in the cultivation of this crop is over-
crowding, and there is no <:)Ccasion for it, as better
crops are secured when the plants are allowed
plenty of room. They should be given at least
2 feet between the rows, and thinned out to from
g inches to a foot between the plants. Plants
that have been brought on tuider glass may now
safely be planted out.
The Flower Garden.
Sweet Williams.— There has been such a
wonderful improvement of late vears in the
strains of these old-fashioned flowers that it is
more than likely their popularity will be
increased. Some of the self colours, such as
Pink Beauty and Sutton's Scarlet, are particularly
fine, and well adapted for planting in masses where
colour effects arc wanted.
Thinning Hardy Annuals.— Those that were
sown last month should now be ready for thinning.
It is of the utmost importance that thev
be thinned early and severely. If this is done,
not only will the blooms be larger and finer, but
they will last twice as long as those allowed to be
crowded together.
Plants Undtr Glass.
Cyclamen. — Young plants from seed sown in
August will now be ready for a shift into 4j-inch
pots. Pot moderately firm in a compost of loam,
leaf-soil and sand, with a sprinkling of bone-meal,
and in doing so care should be taken not to damage
any of the foliage. For a time after potting keep
the plants shaded, and spray them over several
times on fine days, as it is important that the foliage
should always be moist. By the end of June they
may be safely transferred to frames, keeping them
well up to the glass, and bv all means see that they
are not subjected to draughts.
Perpetual-Flowering Carnations.— The plants
rooted towards the end of last year will now be
ready for potting into their flowering pots. For
this potting use a good rich compost, in which
only a small quantity of leaf-soil has been added,
and pot rather firmly. After this potting place
them in a cool house, and for a time very little
water should be required ; indeed, for a day
or two a slight spraying with the syringe should
suffice.
Indian Azaleas. — These will now have completed
their growth and should be moved into cooler
quarters. They must not, however, be placed
out of doors at this time ; indeed, if a convenient
light structure is available, where they will get
plenty of light and air, they had better not be
put out at all.
Sowing Primulas. — The seed should only just
be covered with fine soil or sand. Place the seed-
pan in a moderate temperature and shade from
the sun. Be careful to prick out the seedlings
as soon as they can be handled, and put them
back into heat until they are large enough to
pot on.
Cinerarias. — Where the plants are not expected
to be in bloom before March, the seed need not be
sown before this date. Unlike Primulas, they
resent a high temperature. Stand the seed-pan
in a cold frame, and, if not exposed to the sun,
it will not be necessary to shade them in any way.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Apples. — The fruits on the most forward of the
young trees will now be sufficiently advanced
so that they may be gone over and judiciously
thinned. It is a great mistake to allow large clusters
of fruit to remain on the trees, whichxwill more than
likely never make good specimens. It is far better
to have a few good fruits than a score of indifferent
ones that in the end will not be fit even for cooking.
If time will permit, these young bearing trees
will be greatly benefited by an occasional watering
with liquid manure.
Fruits Under Glass.
Vines in Early Houses. — When the berries
have finished colouring, the temperature should
be reduced ; indeed, fire-heat should only be used
on dull days. Vines in succession houses will be
coming on rapidly, and the houses should be closed
down early in the afternoon to get the benefit of as
much fire-heat as possible. On fine evenings the
top ventilators should be opened slightly for a
short time to clear excessive moisture.
Melons. — ."Vs the fruit is approaching the ripening
stage, only sufficient water should be given to
keep the plants from flagging. Air should be
admitted top and bottom ; this will add materially
to the flavour of the fruit. Melons should be
kept at least four days after being cut before
being sent to the table.
John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of LinUthgo\\'.)
Hopetoim Gardens, South Queensferry, N.B.
May 30, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
287
INFORMAL FEATURES IN A
GARDEN SCHEME.
So wide is the geographical distribution
of the exotic plants with which gardens
are adorned at present that it is not
surprising the old attitude of arranging
them in stereotyped borders, if not
wholly surrendered, has been at least
modified to such degree that for these wildings
of other lands a freer arrangement, both in
garden design and in the system of grouping them,
is being generally adopted. To this influence
much of the present character of informal gardening
is due. It seeks, beyond all things, to illustrate
plant-life in its highest possible development,
grouping them under conditions that approximate
to those in Nature ; and creates a sense of indi-
viduality in the garden scheme, investing it with a
charm that would otherwise be non-existent.
It is idle to suggest that a heterogeneous collection
of plants indigenous to widely diiiferent localities
can be accommodated under border conditions
with the hope of permanent success ; while apart
from this consideration is the fact that a garden
gains in interest and effect when the transition
from one part to another is gradual and discloses
by its occupants or arrangement that different
conditions are illustrated.
Reasons such as these give distinction to rock,
bog, water and other special gardens to which
distinctive names have been given, indicating the
prevalent type of plant-life for whose well-being
they have been created. The principle underlying
this idea is apparent, as, in the first instance,
alpine and hiU-loving plants are mentally associated
with elevated ground and rock, and in reproducing
these under artificial conditions we emphasise
the most prominent features, choosing a more or
less elevated position partly on account of the
greater available light, and because such a
position accentuates the apparent height. One
may contend that the use of rock is only a fanciful
idea, gaining its importance chiefly from the effect
it produces ; but its mechanical action in draining
and conserving moisture in the soil is of far greater
moment. Its pictorial aspect is only worthy of
attention when it is carefully held, subservient
to, and gives forceful expression to, the living
plants with which it is adorned. Some criticism
of an adverse character is at times directed to the
fact that in numerous instances rock gardens are
accompanied by an accessory background in the
form of trees or shrubs ; but as these are salient
features in any English landscape, it does not
appear feasible to eliminate them. The additional
element of truth that would accrue scarcely compen-
sates for their loss, and when the taller arborescent
growth does not encroach upon or overshadow
the rock garden, its double function as shelter
and background is always an asset of great practical
value.
The transition from rock to water garden is
rendered most natural by interpolating the bog
garden between. Its drier portion, encountered
directly on leaving the rock garden, will foster
growth native to the open uplands and heath. By
gradual descent moister conditions will unfold
themselves, until quite sodden ground will occur
in close proximity to, and at times be carried
directly from, the margins of an open expanse
of water, while natiural conditions approximating
to those indicated foster the widest range of exotic
plant-life at no great expense beyond the initial
cost. In their absence much may be done by
artificial means to render such a scheme feasible,
either on a large or a small scale. One of the best
agents for forming an impervious lining over porous
soil is well-puddled clay, a material that is generally
easy to procure and at no great expense. For
open water, the ground after excavating should
have the sides and bottom lined with clay to a
depth of 6 inches to 9 inches, while ground intended
for bog-beds should have a thickness of 4 inches
to 6 inches puddled over the bottom and sides,
care being exercised that the clay is not allowed to
dry and shrink before the water and soil are given
their respective positions.
Were the ground not too restricted, a happy
expression would be to wed the water scheme
on its northern limits to the woodland, and if
some portions of the latter were partly cleared of
the forest growth and the ground cleaned and
manured, introducing wide belts of Primrose,
Polyanthus, Forget-me-not, Doronicum, Arabis,
Aubrietia, Iris, Lupine and Foxglove, with Tulips,
Daffodils, Scillas, Muscaris, Snowdrops, Aconites,
Ornithogalums, Camassias and allied subjects,
a feature of unusucd beauty and of perennial interest
would be incorporated in the garden scheme.
One would naturally be tempted to link this part
up with the other garden features by introducing
informal groups of wild Roses of this and other
lands, and any of their numerous progeny that
are free in growth and effective in flower. It would
be easy to name Roses that would look natural
if skirting the northern extremes of the bog ground,
while sympathy with the rock garden would be
expressed in Rosa nitida, R. lucida, R. pyrenciica
and the prostrate-growing wichuraiana type.
Gradually, as the rock garden passed from view
and the more formal lines of terrace, parterre
or mansion disclose themselves, a more orderly
arrangement will prevail ; and the transition from
the informal or natural garden to that which is
strictly formal is nowhere easier or more pleasantly
united than by the aid of Roses alone.
Coombe Court Gardens. Thomas Smith.
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
Every department of horticulture is represented in THE
Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions
relating to matters upon which they wish expert advice.
The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
but he will not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, ivill be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.
As regards photograph-t, if payynent be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.
The Editor loill not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.
O^ces : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C.
TO
ANSWERS
CORRESPONDENTS.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— Tfte Editor intends to
make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter ivhat the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object will make a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and
parked in damp grans or moss, no', cntton-wool, and /towering
shoots, ivhere possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not character islic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher.
FLOWER G\RDRN.
TULIP BULBS FOR INSPECTION (H. ii.).— Xho bulbs
are perfectly healthy, but the plantH have suffered from
some check while they were CTowing. Probably they
became too dry or were suddenly exposed to a ditferent
temperature from that to which they had become
aceustomed.
**FIRE»' IN TULIPS (C. Q.).— The Tulips are badly
attacked by the disease called " fire." This diweaee is
usually very prevalent when the Tiilipp are exposed to
cold v/inds or frosts during the growine period, and is
also likely to be carried over from one year to the next
by means of the re^stint? bodies which the funj^us Sclerotina
parasitica, to which it is due, produces. These resting
bodies may be present either in the soil or in the bulb;i
just between the bulb scales or about the neck of the
bulb. We find that protecting the young gro\vths of the
Tulip is a great aid in warding off the disease.
TREES AND SHRUBS.
SHRUB TO NAME AND TREATMENT (Mrs. A. T.).—
The specimen sent for determination is the Bladder Nut
{Staphylea plnnata), a native of Southern Europe. The
red-berried Elder to which you refer is Sambucus raccmosa,
a shrub common throughout the Northern Hemisphere
and plentiful in some parts of Switzerland.
PRUNING DOUBLE-FLOWERED CORSE (B. B. « ).—
The double-flowered Gorse may be kept away by culling
it back as soon as the flowers are over. If it is kept
pruned from the time it is l\ feet hiuh, there will be no
need to cut it hard ; but if it is allowed to become leggy,
it will then need to be cut back into the hard wood.
Mthouuh it usually breaks well from old wood, such is
not always the case, and it is as well to avoid too severe
prunini whenever it is possible.
TREATMENT FOR LILACS (H. Af.)-— Providing
your Lilacs are healthy, you may cut them back safely
in the manner you describe. The work should be done
as soon as the flowers fade. Do not allow suckers to
grow from the rootstock, however, for they will weaken
the main branches. It is also advisable to keep the
centres of the plants free from very weak shoots. An
occasional application of liquid cow-manure may be given
with beneficial results during the period of growth, and
a surface-dressing of well-decayed manure above the
roots will assist in the promotion of new growth.
THE GREENHOUSE.
ABOUT AN ASPIDISTRA (M. P. H.).— Rither (1)
the plant is in a draught. (2) the leaf sent is fading
from old age, or (S) the soil is becoming poor. Try water-
ing with a solution of sulphate of ammonia As much
as will cover a sixpence dissolved in a gallon of water may
be used once a week.
FRUIT GARDEN.
RED CURRANT LEAVES (D. M. H,).— The Currant
ba^h appears to be attacked by aphis, and should be sprayed
with Quassia and soft soap.
MELON PLANT FOR INSPECTION (C, L. 5.).— The
brownintr of the Melon stem does not appear to be due
to any insect or fungus attack, but looks more like burning
or scorching.
INJURY TO RASPBERRIES (H. E. J.).— Your Easp-
berries are badly attacked by the Kaspberry cane moth
(Lampronia rubiella), the caterpillar of which bores into
the young shoots and destroys them. If you cut away
and burn' the affected shoots now, you could do much
towards destroying the pest outright.
MISCELLANEOUS.
THE LESSER STITCHWORT (C. P.).— The Lesser
Stitchwort is Stellaria graminea, the two names being used
together in Syme's " English Botany." It can be dis-
tinguished from the Greater Stitchwort by its narrower
leaves and smaller flowers. The two can be easily
separated Both are quite common.
SWEET PEA LEAVES FOR INSPECTION {F. 72.).—
The yellowness of the leaves is a symptom of some mal-
nutrition, but the material is insufiicient to enable- us
to say what the precise cause of the trouble is, or whether
it is in any way connected with streak (which we greatly
doubt). Cold winds sometimes bring about an appearance
such as the leaves show.
WATER AND CEMENT TANK (C. T.).— We have not
experienced anything of a detrimental character resulting
from the use of water from a newly made cement tank,
and have knoivm of several instances of Water Lilies
being planted before the first water was run off. If,
however, you fear to use the first water, let it stand for
a few days and then let it run off. The differences between
Cheiranthus and Erysimimi are very small, and rest
chiefly in the form taken by the cotyledons or seed leaves.
In Cheiranthus they are usually accumbent and in
Erysimum they are incumbent. Botanists are not aiireed
upon the point that the two genera should be kept distinct.
VARIOUS QUESTIONS {F. W. L. F.) —Before giving
advice on the sioppins of Clirysanthemum plants for
the production of exhibition blooms, we should require
to know which varieties you are growing. Usually, the
natural break — which occurs on the majority of varieties
288
THE GARDEN.
[May 30, 1914.
( rorn the beginning of May to the end o£ June— gives tin-
most desirable results. Naturally late-flowering sorts
should have been stopped before this date. Plants
intended to bear more flowers of smaller size for cutting
should be stopped in April and again early in June. Yes ;
plant Oxalis cernua in the autumn. The name of the
tlowiT sent is Clivia niiniata.
NAMES OF PLANTS. — Zielie. — Paulownia imperialis.
C.H. F.— PvriisTorniinalis(the Wild Service Tree). —
Miss M. a. H.-=-Raphiolepis iivata. 0. B., Lympstone.
— Ceanothus dcntatus. The plant described is a very flue
specimen. J. D. — Pvrus Aria (White Beam). J. F.,
Count)/ Durham.— Prumia Padus (the Bird Cherry). It will
grow freely in ordinary garden soil. H. C. C, Limerick,
^Rhododendron formosum. Hardy in South - West
Ireland. Black Eumbro. — Lonicera tartarica. Mrs.
Sartorius.—l, Pvrus pinnatiflda ; 2, Cytisus monspessu-
lanus. C. P., 'Bournemouth. — 1, Pseudotsuga Douglasii;
2, Syringa vulgaris variety. The other two specimens
were" too much mthered to identify. Both specimens in
the second batch are of the Douglas Fir (Pseudotsuga
Douglasii), though one is apparently from a tree in poor
liealtli. A. a. a.—l, Crassula species; 2, Cuphca
miniata ; 3, Uuellia Portellae ; 4, Primula malacoides ; 5,
Chlorophj-tum datum variegatum. The Peach is aflieeted
by mildew, due to bad ventilation. Try flowers of >ulphur
or a solution of potassium sulphide. C. H., Worthinq.
— 1. Asphodelinc lutea ; 2, Asphodelus albus ; 3, Camassia
esculenta variety. Miss Lloyd. — Saxifraga Sibthorpii.
H. B. — 1, 2 and 3, garden seedlings of Phlox
subulata ; 4 and 5, the Irises were beyond recognition ; 6,
iMi'lisia fulgens. H. A. C. — Garden varieties of Azalea
wliich have no distinctive names. ./. M. — 1, Ciassula
lycopodioides ; 2, Tolmiea Menziesii , 3, Pyrus TorminaUs ;
4. P. Aria variety ; 5, P. intermedia.
ORCHIDS AT THE CHELSEA
SHOW.
There were thirteen groups of Orchids, an unlucky
number truly, for the magnificent collection of
Sir George Holford, which has so Dften formed a
flower show in itself, went unrepresented. The
groups stretched the whole length of the north and
south sides of the Large Tent. Amateurs were
represented by the Duke of Marlborough, Sir
Jeremiah Colman and Mr. James Horlick. We
saw no epoch-making flower, though there were
the usual large number of novelties. The feature
of the Orchids was their extremely high general
level, and we have no liesitation in saying they
have never been betteredat any of the earlier shows.
Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Hayward's
Heath, led off the groups on the northern side
of the tent with a design as pleasing in the sustained
balance of colour from end to end as in the rich
variety and fine culture of the varieties included.
The centre-pieco was a mass of Odontiodas in shades
of scarlet, overhung with three white sprays of
Odontdglossum armainvil:iers xanthotes. Two
immense pans of Cattleya Skinneri on either hand,
with their clear shade of purple rose, clashed a little
perhaps with the scarlet, but led to lovely masses
of Cattleya hybrids and Miltonias in some particu-
larly good vaneties. Hybrid Odontoglnssums
occupied the wings, and these, with intermediate
banks of La^lio-Cattleya Fascinator on one side
and LEelio-Cattleya Aphrodite on the other, were
linked together at the back by an arrangement
of Miltonias and Cattleyas. This scheme was novel,
but impressed us as being a little too flat. The way
in which the yellow of Laslio-Cattleya Euripides
and other hybrids at the base linked up the yellow
of the Oncidiums overhanging the banks of
Cattleyas was, however, very pleasing. The group
was full of good things. The soft shades of Thunia
Veitchii, the fine-flowered specimen of Calanthe
veratrifolia, and such Odontiodas as Charlesworthii,
Diana, Bradshawia; and Joan were a few that
caught the eye at once.
The Duke of .Marlborough, Blenheim (gardener,
Mr. G. Hunter), had an interesting collection,
but the group larked a connecting thread which,
by connecting allied plants and related colours
more closely, would have often added beauty by
leading thp eye to special points. Der.drobiums
nobile virginale and Deareii were well flowered,
Cattleya Undine was another pretty piece of white,
and Brasso-Cattleyas ImpSratrice de Riissie and
Maroniae were fine plants.
Messrs. J. Cypher and Sons, Cheltenham, had
a novel arrangement built up in a square plot from
the ground. The four corners were capped with
nice plants of Cocos weddelliana, while linking
two sides wr.s an arch carrying some fine plants
of Dendrobium wardianum. Under this arch one
got the prettiest effects, Renantheras, Cattleyas,
Epidendrums and many fine forms of La:lio and
Brasso Cattleyas glinting through films of greenery.
There was a lovely piece of Temple's variety of
Cattleya Skinneri, and Lajlio-Cattleya hyeana was
very fine ; but did not those broad-leaved, warm-
coloured Crotons seem rather too heavy for the
delicate white sprays of Phatenopsis next them ?
Messrs. Sander and Sons, St. Albans, staged a
collection on the north tabling which in arrangement
and fine quality at once impressed one as one of the
perfect things of the show. Twenty-four magnifi-
cent Brasso-Cattleyas and Brasso-La;lio-Cattleyas
formed the face of a central trophy, of which the
sides showed Miltonias in many soft shades.^ Tricho-
pilias suavis and Hennisii formed a base, which in
a trailing line was continued right and left to the
ends of the group. Phalajnopsis and Renanthera
were an outstanding combination repeated on each
side, and there were grand terminals of Cattleyas
and Odoiitoglossums. From so many good things
it was difficult to select just those few we have
space to mention. Miltonia vexiUaria G. D.
Owen, darkly blotched, must be one of them.
The white Cattleyas Mossiae Wageneri and Magali
Sander were very fine indeed. Others were Cypri-
pedium rothschildianum The King, Odonto-
glossum ardentissimum verulamium, Odontioda
Roger Sander and Miltonia Dreadnought.
Messrs. Armstrong and Brown, Tunbridge Wells,
ended the tabling at the north end of the tent. Here
was a regal collection of species and hybrids, regal in
name and culture alike, containing such novelties
as Odontioda Coronation, Odontoglossum Queen
Mary, Brasso-Laslio-Cattleya Prince of Wales, and
the old Dendrobium thyrsiflorum carrying twenty
flower-spikes. There was a grand plant of Coelogyne
pandiurata. Cymbidium Pauwelsii was fine. A
lovely effect was produced by the slender sprays of
Odontoglossum thompsonianum leaning tlirough
a broad bank of pure white Phalaenopsis. The real
feature of the group, however, was its rich Brasso and
Lselio Cattleyas, which repaid a long examination.
James Horlick, Esq., West Dean Park, Chichester
(gardener, Mr. W. H. Smith), sent one of those
groups interesting in themselves, and doubly
interesting because they were unique. Under a
background of Palms was a wonderfully flowered
batch of Vanda teres arranged in the shape of
a crescent on the ground. We really thought them
too full of flower, and wished they could have been
spread out to cover twice the space. The crescent
enclosed a centre-piece of Calla Pentlandii, the
species with deep green, unmottled leaves and very
large, rich golden yellow spathes, which are touched
with crimson at the base. Bamboos, Grevilleas
and Maidenhair Ferns lightened the whole group.
An admirable collection.
Messrs. Mansell and Hatcher, Limited, Rawdon,
Leeds, were at the south end of the tent, and their
group maintained that high standard of artistic
staging which they were among the very first to
inlroduce. A bold centre-piece of glistening white
Pha'ajnopsis was sui rounded at a lower level with
a belt of the deep red ot Renanthera imschootiana.
Right in the centre was a glowing carmine
piece of Odontioda Chanticleer. At either end
were masses of Cattleya Mossiae in many forms, cut
off from the centre by recessed batches of Odonto-
glossum hybrids. Odontoglossum amabile Roya)
Gem, LcBlio-Cattleya Eudora and the yellow of
Odontoglossum crispo-harryanum were a few of
the specially good things.
Messrs. J. and A. McBean, Cooksbridge, showed
a batch, in which we found more pleasure in examin-
ing individual plants than in admiring the colour
scheme as a whole. The altangement was too
" spotty " with the irregulai dotting of the
Odontiodas along the whole frontage. But who
cares ? Here were Cattleya Mossiae with twenty-
eight flowers, Oncidioda Cooksonas with fortj'-
nine flowers, and grand plants of Oncidium
mcbeanianum {a new macranthus hybrid),
Laelio-Cattleya Melius (a shade of salmon), Odonto-
glossum armainvilhers alba, Lselio-Cattleya Anak,
L.-C. Ganymede (with yellow wings), L.-C. callisto-
glossa ignescens and, best of all, Odontioda Per-
fection, with flowers of Chanticleer colour and
Charlesworthii size.
Sir Jeremiah Colman, Gatton Park, Reigate
(gardener, Mr. J. Collier), sent a beautiful group,
of which the first thing to tell was that all the
Odontiodas (and the group was dominated by them)
were Gatton seedlings. One plant carried over
two hundred flowers on three spikes, and another
over one hundred and seventy. Lady Colman
has given her name to specially lovely forms oj
O. Bradshawiae and O. Vuylstekes. Two striking
terminals to the group were Coelogyne dayana,
the Necklace Orchid, and Dendrobium acumina'
tum, a unique plant which carried five spikes, each
with ten to twelve flowers. Phalaenopsis, Miltonias
and Odontoglossums gave re lieving touches of soft
colour, and there were many more good Gatton seed-
lings, but the general scheme of the group was its
profuse masses of scarlet Odontiodas sprayed out
from the slender greenery of Asparagus albanensis.
Mr. Harry Dixon, Spencer Park Nursery,
Wandsworth Common, had a number of interest-
ing plants. There were several nice forms of Cattleya
Mossiae. Lselio-Cattleya canhamiana x Mendelii and
La;lio-Cattleya Mendelii May Queen were both good.
Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Bush Hill Park,
had the largest display on the south side of the
tent. The centre-piece was an outstanding trophy
of Phalaenopsis, contrasted with Odontiodas and
Renantheras. The two extremities were solid
effective clumps of Renantheras, while between
were masses of Cattleyas, Leclias and hybrids
broken by little groups of rarities and curiosities.
There were Cyrtopodium punctatissimum, with
curious mottled yellow flowers, overtopped by
its enormous hom-like pseudo-bulbs ; Cyrto-
podium andersonianum, with tall spikes of clear
yellow ; the delightful little blue Vanda (V.
cseriilescens), the BuH's-head Vanda (V. cristata)
and strange Sacrolobiums. The race of yellow
Lslia flava x tenebrosa seedlings also deserved
special notice.
Messrs. Flory and Black, Slough, staged a
small group in which Cattleyas, Odontoglossums,
Lffilio-Cattleyas and Odontiodas were represented ;
likewise a pretty mass of the orange Laclio-Cattleya
G. S. Ball, surrounded by the white of Phalaenopsis.
Mr. C. F. Waters, Balcombe, Sussex, had a central
mass of Cattleyas with batches of Miltonias oi>
either hand, and the whole was overhung with white
Odontoglossums. It was a pretty bank of
colour, but as one stood back onejiad a feeling
that the arrangement was too flat.
'.f^-^i^M^z:^!^
5^3?""®-
GARDEN.
-^^^
No. 2220.— Vol. LXXVIII.
June 6, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Severe Frosts in May. — I" many pans lA
the country severe frosts were experienced during
the nights of the 25th and 26th ult. Mr. Harriss
informs us that at Lockinge 8° and 9° respectively
were registered on those dates. A great deal of
■damage has been caused in many places, especially
to early Potatoes, French Bears and Roses.
Newly Planted Trees and Shrubs.— Trees and
shrubs that were planted last autumn or in the
spring should have plenty of water given to them
now, for it is just at this time that
such plants suffer. Evergreens will
greatly benefit by an occasional syring-
ing overhead.
Primula La Lorraine. — This new
hybrid, raised by Messrs. Lemoine et Fils
of Nancy, promises to be a good garden
or cool-house plant. It is a hybrid
between P. Sieboldii and P. Veitchii,
and partakes of the characters of both
its parents. The [flowers are pleasing
in colour, and the habit of the plant
quite good.
Megaseas as Foliage Plants. — Broad-
spreading forms of Megasea (Saxifraga),
with the rich and varied colours of
their large leaves, are worth growing
for their foliage alone, as when once
established they are attractive at all
seasons, whether it be on the higher
parts of the rock garden, in the wilder
parts of the grounds, or by the side of
streams, and at the present time are
among the most effective of foliage
plants.
Planting Annuals.— This work should
be finished with as little delay as possible.
A showery day ought to be chosen for
the purpose, but failuig this, the soil
should be thoroughly moistened a day
previous to planting. Large quantities
of the various kinds for cutting can
be planted on good, rich soil, so that
during the season those plants which
are placed in the pleasure grounds may
be left uncut.
A Handsome Fumitory. — In Corydalis nobilis
we have a distinct and extremely attractive plant,
and, without doubt, the most desirable of the whole
genus. It is of robust habit and perfectly hardy,
always yielding an abundance of flowers at this
season of the year. They are of a rich golden
yellow with chocolate spots on the lip, and are
borne on strong stems, leafy to the top, and rarely
exceeding i foot in height. These rise from a
mass of bright green, Fem-like foliage. It is an
excellent plant for a damp spot in the rockerj-.
although it may be planted along the border with
equal effect, and can be readily increased by
division or raised from seed.
Sowing Mignonette. — Seed may be sown
in good rich soil, and a sharp look-out kept for
ment can be effected in one season. The grass,
of course, will take on a slightly brown tinge, but
it soon recovers and comes stronger than ever.
The Bridal Wreath (Francoa ramosa). —
Plants that are throwing up plenty of flower-
slugs, which are very fond of this plant while in , spikes should be supported by neat sticks ; place
a young state. Soot may be freely sprinkled them in a cool pit and protect from strong sim.
about the plants to keep slugs in check, and will I Seeds of this plant may be sown now to produce
also prove a valuable stimulant to the plants plants for next season. Sow in pans of fine, sifted
throughout the season. Several sowings may be soil and cover with sheets of glass. Pot on as soon
as ready, and grow the plants in a well-
ventilated pit on a bed of ashes. Protect
from sun and never allow them to suffer
from want of moisture at the roots.
Cucumbers in Unheated Pits. — Hot-
beds may now be made up either in
brick pits or in the frame ground, where
wood frames may be used. The material
should be thoroughly prepared before the
bed is made up, and this ought to be
trodden tightly together before the box
frame is placed in position. The soil
should be allowed to become thoroughly
warm before the plants are put out, and
some covering must be applied at night.
Vases and Boxes. — In the making up
of these useful adjuncts to the flower
garden it must be remembered that as
their season is so very short and the
space limited, none but good established
plants should be used. Many fine effects
can be had by making use of good-sized
plants of some of the hardier varieties of
Fuchsias as a centre plant, while the
rest of the vase or basket could be
filled with smaller-growing plants, such
as Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums.
Horticulture at the Panama-Pacific
Exposition. — Horticulture, we are told,
is to be well represented at the Panama-
Pacific International Exposition, to be
opened at San Francisco on February 20,
rgis. A valuable cup is to be offered for
the best new seedling Rose that is shown,
and many attractions are promised. One
of these is a wonderful new Rhubarb,
which, we are informed, is " extraordinary for its ex-
ceptional length of stem, which is 2 feet to 3 feet
long." No doubt many of our readers will journey
to San Francisco purposely to see such wonderful
Rhubarb — unless, as is quite likely, they happen to
have some with longer stems at home. A new
Sweet Pea, which is not an annual, but a perennial,
is to be another feature. The flowers of this, we
are solemnly told, wiU " no more fade than will the
green of living Ivy," and blooms will remain fresh
till the end of the year.
ANDROSACE PRIMULOIDES AND OTHER CHOICE ALPINES ON
A DRY WALL IN A DEVONSHIRE GARDEN. (See next pige.)
made from now until the end of June on rich soil
which has been made firm by treading.
To Eradicate Daisies on Lawns. — Where
Daisies are present to any extent they very soon
crowd out the finer grasses, and means should be
taken to at least check them. For this purpose
there is nothing better than finely powdered
sulphate of ammonia apphed in dry weather at
the rate of loz. to every square yard. This must
be repeated from time to time, and if this is
persisted in, it isreaUy surpiising what an improve-
290
THE GARDEN.
[June 6, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
{The Editor is not responsibie for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
Androsace primuloides in a Dry Wall. — I am
sending you a photograph of Androsace primu-
loides. The plants are growing in a dry wall facing
south, and were very small in 2j-inch pots when
they were planted in October, rgia. Now they
are two fine clumps a foot or more across, and a
mass of bloom. In dry walls we can grow
Androsaces here without any trouble or covering
with sheets of glass in the winter, as the drainage
is perfect and they get every bit of sun. In the
same photograph will be seen a clump of Saxifraga
pyramidalis, also Sedum pilosum and Campanula
carpatica. The last two have flowered since the
photograph was taken. The Androsaces are grow-
ing in garden loam mixed with sea-sand and small
in the sunny South and West, where the bushes
! give the most satisfaction in this country. Layering
is the most ready means of propagation. — A. O.
Cinerarias from Cuttings. — Cinerarias are so
universally grown from seeds that the fact that
they can be readily increased by means of cuttings
is not generally recognised. Such, however, is
the case ; in fact, there are a few hybrids that
do not produce good seed, and therefore can only
be propagated from cuttings. Again, even among
the florists' forms it may be desired to increase
a few of marked beauty or possessing some features
that cannot be depended upon to come true
from seed. To ensure cuttings, the old plants
should be shortened back after flowering, when
young shoots will be pushed out from the base.
As soon as these are about two inches in length
they may be taken as cuttings, and if inserted into
pots of sandy soil and placed in a close propagating-
case in gentle heat they will soon root. — H. P.
A SPRAY OF CORNUS NUTTALLII WITH LARGE CREAMY WHITE FLOWERS.
stones. — E. A. Frouue, Kingsbridf;e, Sciith
Devon.
A Beautiful Cornel or Dogwood : Cornus
Nuttallii. — This Dogwood, which is a native of
Western North America, is the most attractive
species of the genus from a floral standpoint.
Strictly, however, the attraction lies in the showy
bracts, four to six in number, surrounding the
closely packed head of flowers. These bracts
are creamy white, i inch to 3 inches long, forming
the so-called flower, which may be 4 inches or
even more in diameter. Cornus Nuttallii is a
deciduous tree up to 50 feet to 60 feet, occasionally
more, in height, in Western North America.
As grown in this country it is usually a bush or
small bushy tree. The flowers are formed at
the tips of the young shoots in autumn,
gradually developing during the winter and
expanding in the spring. Flowering early, the
bracts and flowers are often damaged or crippled
by frosts and cold winds. It is thus very desirable
to plant Nuttall's Cornel in a sheltered spot, except
Primulas Causing Rash. — I see in the issue
of The Garden for May 16 " J. D.'s " remarks re
Primulas obconica and malacoides causing a rash.
Both these valuable decorative plants cause the
same rash on myself, and at one time I was about
to get rid of them when it occurred to me to try
an ointment that I always keep by me for bruises.
The rash always comes out on myself within half
an hour from the time of handling the plants,
so the next time I felt it coming I smeared my
hands and arms over with the ointment, and was
delighted to find it took away all irritation almost
immediately. I should not like to say that it
would cure everyone in the same way ; but I
think anyone who is fond of these plants and is
afraid to grow them on that account would do
well to try the ointment. I do not wait for the
rash to come out now, but directly I have finished
handling the plants I treat my hands. The name
of the ointment is " Healo," made by Mr. Maurice
Smith, chemist, Kidderminster. Should any of
your readers try the remedy, I should like to hear
' the result. I might add I hold no brief for Mr,
I Maurice Smith. — C. H. Clarke, The Gardens,
The Hialh, Bcwdlcv. Wurccslcrshire.
Primula pulverulenta Mrs Berkeley Producing
\ Seed. — In the course of recent visits to the gardens
at Clandon Park, Surrey, and to the nurseries
of Messrs. R. Wallace and Co., Colchester, I have
seen this charming Primula seeding with as much
freedom as, or even greater than, the species. This
point is of interest, as Dr. Macwatt has repeatedly
stated in the columns of The Garden that this
variety is sterile. It was pointed out to me at
Colchester that both pin-eyed and thrum-eyed
plants are in existence there. It is just a sugges-
tion, but possibly the cross-fertilisation of the
two forms is necessary in order to yield fertile
seed. In any case, the fact that both forms
exist is proof that there are two stocks of this
variety, for either form would continue to reproduce
the same kind of flower so long as it was propagated
vegetatively. With Primulas, at least, it is not
safe to generalise regarding their sterility. Thus,
it was not many years ago that P. kewensis was
described as a mule hybrid, i.e., one not capable
of producing fertile seed. We now know that
this hybrid produces seed with remarkable free-
dom.—C. Q.
A Good Red-Flowered Saxifrage. — Probably
the best red Mossy Saxifrage which has come
under our notice is the fine variety Beacon, which
was raised here a season or two ago. In size the
flowers are fully equal to bathoniensis, but the
colouring is much deeper, reminding one of the
brilliant depth of crimson which we get in the
small-flowered Guildford Seedling. The stems
are stiff, the blossoms held erect, and the habit
of growth is distinctly good. In our opinion
it is even better than our own Fire King, which
IS now in the hands of Messrs. Piper of Bayswater.
Last season we formed the opinion that Fire
King was even better than sanguinea superba,
and if our opinion is correct, then it emphasises
still further the value of Beacon. The whole
race of Mossy Saxifrages seem productive of too
many varieties, but it is well to record the
appearance of any that are especially noteworthy.
— P. S. Havward, Claclon-on-Sea.
Tricuspidaria dependens in South - West
Scotland. — Probably the finest plant of the
wonderfully beautiful Tricuspidaria dependens,
still frequently known as Crinodendron Hookeri,
in Scotland is that in the rock garden of Mr. W. D.
Robinson-Douglas of Orchardton in Kirkcud-
brightshire. It has been at Orchardton for a
considerable number of years, and has stood the
tests of several severe winters. None, however,
proved so injurious to this fine shrub as that
of I9i2-r3, when a wet autumn, so mild that
Roses were cut the day before the severe frost
came in the same garden, was followed by a sudden
and very severe spell of hard weather. The
temperature went down to about zero — an unusual
thing in this garden close to the Solway — and
remained very low for some days. In the spring
T. dependens was a sorry spectacle, and there
were but few green leaves left on it. During last
summer it made a wonderful recovery, and although
slightly less in stature, it now shows hardly any
traces of its ordeal. At the time of writing
it is laden with hundreds of flower-buds, and in a
short time will be a very beautiful spectacle.
It is planted on a slightly elevated mound in the
rock garden and facing south ; it is some 8 feet
or 9 feet high, and on its mound rises well above
the spectator. — S Arnott.
June 6, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
291
The Asarabacca Plant.^This plant is, I fear,
known to very few. I have visited a good many
gardens in the United Kingdom, but it was only
four summers ago that I stumbled upon it in
the old garden at Midmar Castle, Aberdeenshire,
and I would have been unable to identify it had
I not had for a companion the local doctor, who
is a good botanist, The botanical name of the
plant is Asarum europaeum. Its dull brown
flowers are not very attractive, but its Cyclamen-
like leaves, growing in pairs, are very ornamental.
It is worthy of a place at the foot of the rockwork
or in a shady border ; or, better still, it may be
employed as an edging under the shade of trees,
as I saw it at Midmar Castle. — Charles Comfort.
A Good Forget-Me-Not. — About twelve months
ago an article appeared in The Garden from
the pen of Mr. C. Blair of Linlithgow, in which
he enumerated some good things worth growing —
I think that was his phrasing. Among the plants
mentioned was a Myosotis named Barr's Alpine
Blue, which the writer strongly recommended,
and which we at once obtained. For some time
past and at present we are verifying the ex-
cellent account Mr. Blair gave of this variety.
The colour is a most attractive shade of blue,
much resemblmg M. rupicola, which variety one
might imagine entered into the parentage of the
above. Compared with Barr's Alpine Blue,
several varieties now catalogued are not worth
growing. — C. T., Highgaic.
The Ginger Plant for Decoration. — It is from
the rhizomes of this East Indian plant. Zingiber
officinale, that we get our supplies of ginger, and
on that account it is of great commercial value.
I would like, however, to draw attention to it
as a decorative plant, especially for the house.
A well-grown plant with its Canna-like foliage,
which stands the wear and tear of house decora-
tion, is an object not to be despised. Its leaves
are also highly aromatic, and are to me always
more suggestive of cinnamon than of gmger.
If an old plant is broken up in the spring and nice
pieces are potted up into 6-inch pots, they soon
make fine decorative plants if grown in a stove
temperature. They should be grown in a light,
rich soil, in which the rhizomes run freely. —
C, C.
Too-much-alike Auriculas. — ^Your correspon-
dent " Taplow," on page 239, opens up a subject
which I am afraid cannot be answered briefly. He
mentions that few of the varieties of Auriculas
named in trade growers' lists are entered for com-
petition, and if he excludes those that are relatively
high priced, he still further reduces the number.
This is, as applied to the alpine section, mainly
caused by the fact that many varieties which
were exhibited ten or fifteen years ago have been
superseded by more recent introductions of greater
merit, and not, as in the case of Sweet Peas, because
they are too much alike. There are cases where
Auriculas are so much alike as to be hardly dis-
tinguishable, but these cases are not many. Mrs.
H. Turner and Defiance are much alike, and
though once in the front rank, are rarely seen
now. Among more recent and meritorious varie-
ties may be mentioned Exquisite and Unexpected,
or Miss Violet Vanbrugh and Muriel ; but this
does not in any way prevent them being exhibited.
In the slow growth and increase of the plant
will, I think, be found the reason why the bulk
of the catalogued varieties of alpine Auriculas
are not seen on the exhibition table. Many of
the best exhibition varieties at the present time
have been raised by amateur growers, and are
exhibited by them. In some cases these raisers
will not part with plants, and they certainly are
not tempted to dispose of their best productions
until they have materially increased their stock.
When they do part with plants, it is usually among
their friends and members of their respective
societies, by whom they are for some time shown
before they find their way into trade lists. Argus
and Thetis, two good exhibition varieties, were
a long time before they found their way into a
dealer's list, although they had been shown for
many years at the National Auricula Society's
(Midland Section) shows. By the time many
of the varieties have increased sufficiently to
sell at a cheap rate, other varieties are raised
which supersede them on the exhibition table ;
at least this is so as regards the alpines.
Among the show Auriculas there are many of the
more moderate priced which are still of great
value for exhibition, although the two best grey
edges, George Lightbody and Richard Headley,
still command a fairly high price, in spite of their
MR. E. HARRISS, HEAD-GARDENER AT
LOCKINGE.
sixty years, due to slow growth and increase
coupled with a large demand. A dozen good
alpuies taken from trade growers' lists, excluding
new and expensive varieties, would be Argus,
Duke of York, Janet, Miss Berkeley, Ettrick,
Mrs. James Douglas, Phyllis Douglas, Charmer,
Majestic, Mrs. Martin Smith, WiUiam Smith
and Ilene. I would suggest that your corre-
spondent joins one of the sections of the National
Auricula Society and gets into touch with growers
who hold stocks of good things not catalogued.
I have forwarded the report of the National
Auricula Society (Midland Section) for the last
three years for your correspondent's perusal. —
G. J. S. [Will " Taplow " please send us Ms
name and address, which we have mislaid, so
that we can forward the report ? — Ed.]
FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
June 10. — Conference on Hardy Plants at the
Anglo-American Exhibition at Shepherd's Bush.
(Provisional.)
PLANNING AND PLANTING
THE LITTLE GARDEN.
We are pleased to state that our competition
for planning and planting the little garden is
creating a great deal of interest. For the benefit
of new readers we may state that we are offering
cash prizes to the total value of £33 12s., as well
as a number of book prizes, for the best designs
for planning and planting the little garden. Full
particulars of the competition were published in
our issue for May 18, and a copy of the rules
and conditions will be forwarded to anyone on
receipt of rjd. in stamps. The application coupon
for , le outline plans will be found on page iv.
of this issue. All questions relating to the com-
petition will be fully answered in oiu' issue for
Jun 20, and not in the present issue, as erroneously
stated last week.
Important. — Some correspondents are evidently
imder the impression that they cannot enter the
competition after June 6. They can do so as
late as they wish. The only fixed date is Sep-
tember I, 1914, for the delivery of the completed
designs.
TWO
INTERESTING
VIOLAS.
Viola Red Dawn. — With our extensive culture
of Viola gracilis hybrids it is not exceptional for
a new and noteworthy variety to arise from among
its fellows. The form under notice is one of the
best of the present year, and offers a pleasing
contrast in colour to the majority of existing
varieties. The colour is a pleasing rich rosy red,
and the flowers are rounded in formation and
held erect upon stiff stems. The growth is very
dwarf, the tufts of foliage keeping to the ground-
level, and the leaves are less smooth and more
rounded than in most gracilis varieties. If,
like its better-known predecessors, it retains the
same ability to withstand drought, then Red
Dawn will assuredly be in the front rank of
rock garden Violas. To those of my readers
who know the fine yellow variety Golden
Wave, I may say that Red Dawn is almost
identical in every way, except in its attractive
colouring.
V. gracilis Golden Gondolier. — One of the
most striking hybrids of the V. gracilis section we
have yet raised is the variety provisionally named
Golden Gondolier. It possesses the same close,
dwarf habit as the cream and yellow variety
Gondolier (which with its hordes of blossoms
neatly set above the low foliage streaming through
a big drift between the rocks makes one of the
grandest drifts of blossom in the whole rock
garden), which is notable for its big drifts of
blossom. Golden Gondolier is very floriferous,
with small, ovate leaves produced in tufts against
the ground. It is far neater than gracilis itself,
and, like the other mountain Violas, can with-
stand drought and flourish in poor soils. The
colour is a lovely clear golden yellow, without
any ray markings or other colourings to mar
its shining beauty. As a subject for rock massing
it will prove very attractive, and will be an even
more valuable plant than Golden Fleece, Golden
Wave or aurea (previous gracilis fomis), all of which
were raised here.
Clacton-on-Sea. P. S. Hayward.
292
THE GARDEN.
[June 6, i9i'4.
GARDENS OF TO-DAY.
LO CK IN G E.
CHARMINGLY situated in a well-
wooded vile of the Berkshire Downs,
the gardens at Lockinge, the cotintry
seat of L;idy Wantage, have for
many years been famed throughout
the United Kingdom not only for
the wonderful examples of fruit that are annually
grown there, but also for the charming flower-beds
and natural glades that are to be found running
parallel to the mansion. This fame is due in no
I ttle mersure to the skill of the late Mr. Fyfe,
who was gardener there for many years
It was our good fortune, during
the opening days of May, to
spend a particularly pleasant
week-end \vith the head-gardener,
Mr. E. Harriss, and through the
kindness of Lady Wantage we are
able to reproduce herewith photo-
graphs showing a few of the many
charming features. The site at
Lockinge must have been ordained
by Nature to become a garden.
Starting at the east end of the
pleasure grounds is a vigorous
spring of clear, sparkling water,
which wends its way now through
wooded glades and anon over rocky
beds, right past the mansion, losing
itself in a large ornamental lake,
on the surface of which coots, wild
duck and swans disport themselves.
It was a great pleasure to find this
natural source of beauty unspoiled
by artificial attempts at embellish-
ment. At various places along the
stream-side suitable shrubs, such as
Japanese Maples, hardy Bam-
boos, Cytisus praecox and Cotone-
asters, have been planted to
form more or less conspicuous
features in the landscape, yet
with such good taste as to
render them parts of the scenery
itself, instead of, as is too often
the case, being glaring examples
of misplaced energy. The same
may be said of the herbaceous
plants that find a happy home
either in moist beds by the
streamside or among the noble
rocks that overhang the banks
at the steepest parts. In thi view in
beds we found such simple yet
delightful plants as Primroses,
Forget-me-nots, Arabis, Aubrietias, May-flowering
Tulips and hosts of others, all planted with judicious
care so as to harmonise with their surroundings.
On a rather steep plateau, overlooking the stream
at its widest part and commanding a fine view
under the noble Elms and Beeches that stand
as sentinels over Lockinge, is the wild garden,
which at the time of our visit was rendered beauti-
ful by the latest of the Daffodils and the earliest of
the May-flowering Tulips. These are all planted
in grass, and it was interesting to note that some
of the Tulips, notably Pride of Haarlem, were
at least as vigorous as the first year after planting,
while others showed that they would need re-
plenishing. It would therefore seem that it
is not an impossible task to naturalise Tulips in
grass, providing the proper varieties are chosen.
Along the northern front of the mansion we were
j particularly charmed with a narrow border filled
I with splendidly cultivated Wallflowers of several
colours. At one end these were partly overhung
' by a magnificent bush of Berberis steuophylla,
while near by, in a nook formed by evergreen
i shrubs, were two beautiful examples of Pyrus
floribunda, a Japanese Apple that ought to
I be much more extensively cultivated where
: flowering shrubs or trees are appreciated.
On the south side we found a charming little
grey stone church nestling close to the mansion,
its twin gables and solid square tower forming
a delightful feature in the landscape. The formal
beds that are situated here were, at the time
THE ROCK GARDEN AT LOCKINGE. TO THE RIGHT OF
THIS IS A DELIGHTFUL STREAM OF WATER.
of our visit, resplendent with Wallflowers, Violas,
Forget-me-nots, Tulips and other spring flowers,
the whole being so arranged as to give a pleasing
and harmonious effect.
Specimen plants in tubs are a great feature
at Lockinge during the summer months, and
although we were too early to see these in their
flowering positions, we found them in the plant
houses imdergoing their final hardening. Agapan-
thuses. Fuchsias and that beautiful scented-
leaved and rose-pink flowered Pelargonium
Clorinda were a few among many that are utilised
for this purpose. In the open were some remark-
ably fine plants of Rose Dorothy Perkins in tubs,
the healthy appearance of the Roses auguring well
for a glorious display of pink festoons later on.
While writing of Roses we must not forget the
most charming of all, and one for which Lockinge
is justly famed. We refer to Fortune's Yellow,
a Rose that many find difiicult to cultivate, and
the flowers of which are a glorious mixture of
rose pink and old gold. There are two wonderful
plants in these gardens. One, in the conservatory,
has an enormous stem and scrambles in a delight-
fully free and easy manner over the iron rafters of
the building, where, at a height of 20 feet or more
it makes wonderful garlands with its exquisite
fragrant flowers. The other plant is in the corridor
of the fruit houses in the kitchen garden. Although
scarcely so large as that in the conservatory,
it flowers more freely, and we shall ever remember
the glorious sight that it presented. Truly it is
a wonderful Rose — when grown
as they grow it at Lockinge. In
the plant houses we were pleased
to find some beautiful Clarkias
in pots, large colonies of Gloxinias,
Coleuses, Lilies. Orchids of many
kinds, Schizanthuses, a very fine
lot of Malmaison and Perpetual-
flowering Carnations, and a great
many other plants too numerous
to mention in the space at our
disposal.
Leaving the pleastire grounds
and plant houses, we must give
a passing note to the kitchen
garden, in which, of course,
the fruit houses are situated.
It is, perhaps, in this depart-
ment more than in any other
that Mr. Harriss excels. Here,
on May i, were Black Hamburgh
Grapes ready to cut, and fine
bunches at that. We should say
that some of them — indeed, a good
many — would have turned the scale
at 31b. a bimch, and we have seen
much worse examples displayed
at July and August shows.
Foster's Seedling and Buckland's
Sweetwater were also nearly ready
for cutting, while later houses
contained some very fine Muscats,
which had set particularly well
and which had just undergone
their final thinning. Peaches
and Nectarines in pots, as well as
the usual trees in borders, were
all in excellent condition, but
perhaps, next to the Grapes, the
Strawberries were the most in-
teresting. We do not remember
seeing a better lot anywhere ; sel-
dom have we found as good. The
variety used mostly is Royal Sovereign, and there
is no doubt that for all-round purposes it is the
Strawberry to grow. Figs that were just ripening
were also excellent, one fine old tree of Brown
Turkey carrying a really wonderful crop. Melon
Hero of Lockinge, French Beans, Peas ready for
gathering, and new Potatoes of good size and
quality were a few of the many other interesting
features that occupied our attention here. During
the past year substantial, roomy and convenient
new bothies have been erected for the journeymen
gardeners, an item that wUl be of interest to the
many who have spent the early days of their
gardening careers at Lockinge, about the gardens
of which volumes might be written had we the
space to devote to it.
June 6, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
293
COTTAGE TULIPS.
DARWIN Tulips can be defined with
I very fair accuracy. Tlieir stems
I are tall and strong. The lower
' portion of the flower is rectangular
in outline. The petals possess con-
siderable substance, and are coloured
with some shade of purple, mauve, red, or pinlc.
But in a few cases they are so dark as to be nearly
black, and so light as to be practically white.
Their bases are black, blue, or white, or some
combination of the same, but never yellow. Some-
thing like the above WiU, I think, be found to be
the definition of a Darwin in the Tulip list wliich
the Royal Horticultural Society is proposing to
publish before long. All other late-flowering
varieties, with the exception of the Parrots, which
have laciniated petals, and the species, which are
the wildings of Nature, are ipso
facto Cottage. Hence the section
includes all yellow-based flowers,
such as Clio or Golden Bronze ;
ill such dwarf ones as Glare of
the Garden and Golden Crown ;
all pointed-petalled and elegantly
shaped beauties such as Mrs. Moon
and La Merveille ; all slender, wury-
stemmed forms, such as Picotee, Mrs.
W. O. Wolseley and retroflexa ; all
old-fashioned striped blooms like
Chameleon, Columbus or Zomer-
schoon ; all breeder types of other
strains, such as Inglescombe Pink
or Prince of Orange. Undoubtedly
there are some, especially among
those that fall under the last heading,
that so very nearly resemble a
true Darwin that the non - Tulip
person will be perplexed, and I am
afraid it must be so until a sort of
instinctive knowledge is acquired
which somehow or other teUs us at
a glance in wliich category a doubt-
ful one should be placed.
It is a matter of history that
the introduction of the wonderful
Darwin strain by Messrs. E. H.
Krelage and Son of Haarlem
almost a quarter of a century ago
did more than all else to bring
the Tulip race to the prominent
position in horticulture which it
holds to-day. Not right away, all
at once, for many of the early
introductions were poor and small, and did
not appeal to flower-lovers as the later and
better kinds did, but it was a beginning.
Cottage varieties were in the same position
to some extent. Many of the best and
most beautiful either had not been found or
were only existing in such small quantities
that neither Barr nor Hartland could put them
into commerce. But they never " hit " people all
at once on first sight as the Darwins did, and
as they still do, and yet they have many devotees.
" I am so fond of the pointed ones " is often said
\o me as a visitor will stop before a bed of the
rich deep crimson Mrs. W. O. Wolseley or the
pale warm cherry - coloured Prince Charming
or the taller and more orange shaded La Merveille.
" 1 do hke these for my rooms " a lady wiU say
as she stands before a mass of Picotee or retro-
flexa, " they are not so stiff to arrange as those
strong-stemmed ones." These two remarks give
two great reasons why we cannot do without
the Cottage type. We must have change.
It is a law of life. The flower specialist gets it
j in minute differences, the all-round person in
broader diversities, such as that between pointed
. and round petals, bright and paler coloured blooms,
I taller and shorter height of stem. Hence Cottages
are foils to the Darwins. Again, for decoration
in vases the more graceful varieties must always
hold their own wherever they can be home grown,
for I freely allow that many of the prettiest and
. most graceful are not such travellers as Clara
I Butt or Mr. Farncombe Sanders, and can never
! be market flowers, as they are. These we must
I grow ourselves, and if we can only give them a
[ bed or two in the kitchen garden, we may always
have them, once we have piurchased the bulbs,
provided we look after them. I am, however,
forgetting that my original intention was to
because of its height and size is a conspicuous
feature. Many have said it is their favourite
of the yellows. On a dull day I suppose the Tulip
of all others that is most frequently selected
as the one sort that " / must have " is the charming
warm buff pink Mrs. Kerrell. It is exceedingly
lovely, not only in colour, but in shape. Ingles-
combe Pink is a Tulip of much the same shade.
This year it has been more taking even than usual,
as the pink tone has persisted for a long period.
It is a fairly tall grower with a conventional
flower. Orange King, which has very straight-
looking petals, is a beautiful orange with a pink
or rose flush all over them. It is a singularly
effective bloom, and although there was not a
very large patch of it, it usually caught people's
eyes. Now that it can be had at about 2s. to
2s. 6d. per dozen, it ought to be more used than
it was in its dearer days. Salaman, a tall, Darwin-
like plant, with fine silvery mauve blooms, was
FORMAL FLOWER-BEDS ALONG THE SOUTH FRONT OF LOCKINGE.
describe some of my garden favourites of the
present year. A good deal depends on the weather.
If tlie day is bright and sunny, Louis XIV. is
almost invariably singled out with very often
a remark like this : " What a lovely dress those
colours would make ! " The deep rich purple,
with the rich brown edging of the petals, is very
fine indeed. The large tortoiseshell comb coloured
Gondvink and the rich amber Golden Bronze
(syn. Toison d'Or) are always good in bright
Ught, and are seldom passed by unnoticed. For
a long time I have in my own mind coupled these
together with the beautiful nicely baked biscuit
brown Clio as the best of all the brown-yellow
shades ; now, however, I must add Prince Albert,
a sort of pointed Gondvink, and Coridion (not,
please remember, the Darwin Corydon — the names
are sometimes muddled), which has a warm rosy
grey petal with a broad edge of buff, and which
to be found in three places. It was greatly aamired.
I myself am inclined to put it at the head of all
of this tone of colour, be they Darwins or Cottage.
The brilliant scarlet Marksman and the rather
dull orange red Fairy or Panorama both had
many admirers, and can be confidently recom-
mended as Ai garden plants. Of the striped
kinds. Chameleon is the one most frequently
picked out. Unfortunately, it is a very slow
increaser, and its curious but attractive heliotrope,
maroon and yellow colouring will never be very
common in gardens.
I am glad to say that there are plenty of
low-priced varieties that can quite hold their
own with those more expensive ones which I
have already alluded to. Such are Isabella
(no end of people asked its name), Picotee,
Golden Crown (an immense favourite). La Merveille,
Inglescombe Pink, gesneriana lutea. Fairy Queen,
294
THE GARDEN.
[June 6, 1914.
COLOURED PLATE.
PLATE 1495.
T
CYTISUS PPLffiCOX AND JUNIPERS EFFECTIVELY GROUPED WHERE THE STREAM ENTERS THE LAKE.
A NEW DWARF RHODO-
DENDRON.
R. INTRICATUM.
I HE accompanying coloured
plate depicts one of the
most distinct of the new-
Rhododendrons intro-
duced by Mr. E. H.
Wilson from China.
Messrs. James Veitch received seeds
from him in 1904, and three years
later — on April 2, igoy — the Royal
Horticultural Society gave the plant
a first-class certificate under the
name of R. nigro-punctatum. From
the true R. nigro-punctatum the
subject of the coloured plate is
readily distinguished by the short
stamens ; and while R. intricatum
is in full flower at the end of March
and early in April, R. nigro-punc-
tatum flowers in May, and has fewer
flowers in a truss.
R. intricatum is a dwarf alpine
shrub common in the Tachien-lu
district of Western Szechuen at
11,000 feet to 15,000 feet elevation,
v/here the plants attain a height of
2 feet to 3 feet. Comparatively slow
SEASONABLE NOTES ON
AURICULAS.
in growth and forming neat little
gesueriana spathulata, Didieri alba and Primrose 1 especially during the period in which the old 1 compact evergreen bushes, this is one of tl.e best.
Beauty, each of them good and to be found in flower-spikes are being picked out, as it sometimes j if not the best of all the dwarf-growing RhodO'
the usual lists. Joseph Jacob. happens that water accumulates at the base and
__^_^__^__^^^^_^_^_^^__ causes the rot to set in. If this is noticed in the
I early stages, and a little powdered charcoal or
sulphur is applied at once, no harm will accrue.
In growing Auriculas I always arrange the alpines
in one frame and the show varieties in another,
because during the stmimer and autumn months
.,,_,, ^ ^, ^ , the lights are removed as much as possible, both
A NY plants that were not repotted last j j • u.. t ■ j ^u f ■ \^-
l\ ^, ^ , . '^ day and night. I never mmd the alpmes gettmg
/ « month must now be given attention, , x t, j • ^u i.^ -tu ..■.
I \ .. :i :. .j_.;„_^,- r_ .,, , , 1^ '6™ showers of rain on them, but with the
NY plants that were not repotted last
month must now be given attention,
as it is advisable for all such work
to be accomplished by the end of
June, excepting, of course, those
plants that may have been selected
fur bearing seed. These ought never to suffer
for lack of moisture at the roots, or the seed will
not be of good quality and germination will be
slow. The hot months of the year are somewhat
trying for Auriculas, and wherever possible
a cool position should be chosen. If ordinary
wooden frames which can be easily moved about
are employed, no difficulty will be experienced
in finding a congenial spot. In most gardens
there is generally a north wall sufficiently high
to protect the plants from strong sunlight, and
such a position is ideal for Auriculas throughout
the summer months.
General Treatment.— The plants that were
potted first are now beginning to root nicely,
and may receive water at more frequent intervals ;
but till they reach that stage only enough should
be given to maintain the foliage in a rigid con-
dition. They will, in all probability, lose a few of
the lower leaves, which must be removed directly
they will part easily from the stem, and the same
remark applies to the old flower-stalks, which
will soon begin to turn yellow and gradually
wither iip. The collection ought to be gone
over occasionally and the plants carefully examined.
dendrons for the rockery and alpine garden.
The small, oval leaves are a quarter of an inch
to two-thirds of an inch long, and half as wide,
dark green above, white beneath, freely clothed
on both surfaces with shining brown scales. The
flowers are in terminal clusters of three to
six blooms, about half an inch across, and very
freely produced. Lavender blue will perhaps
best describe the dainty shade of colour. When
in flower the neat little bushes are very attrac-
show kinds it is not advisable, on account of j tive, almost suggestive of a bunch of Violets in
many of them being covered with farina ; hence the distance. At Kew this year several very
the advantage of providing them with separate beautiful plants were to be seen effectively
frames. : grouped near King William's Temple, and these
Cleanliness. — One of the most important i >vere a source of great interest to visitors,
factors in Auricula culture is cleanliness, and Seeds and cuttings provide ready means of
directly any green fly is seen, the frames should increase. The best time to insert the cuttings
be vaporised without further delay ; while an is in late summer, when the young shoots are
occasional fumigation will kill all the woolly aphis i partially mature. Use sandy peat and plunge
that may be clustering around the necks of the
plants. Another most destructive pest is the
caterpillar, a similar insect to that we meet with
on the Cabbage tribe. It is only troublesome at
this time of the year, and is usually found under-
neath the leaves. If the attack is a mild one, the
insects may be picked off ; but should they be at
all numerous, fumigation is the only effectual
remedy. They must be exterminated at once,
cr the plants will be rendered unsightly for several
months.
Additions to the Collection. — No doubt the
enthusiast has paid a visit to one of the Auricula
shows and noted any that took his fancy ; but
the following are desirable sorts, and are worthy
of a place in any collection : Alpines — Admiration,
Majestic, Dazzle, Ettrick, Golden Dustman, Miss
Berkeley and Edith Winn. Show — Daffodil,
Harrison Weir. Bellona, Marmion, Prince Charming
and Rifleman. T. W. Briscoe.
the pots in a propagating-frame with slight
bottom-heat. The tiny plants commence to
flower when only a few inches in height. Their
rate of growth is comparatively slow. Plants
seven years old from cuttings, though forming
freely branched bushes, are not yet a foot in height.
R. fastigiatum is a closely allied specif s, also
from China, recently introduced by Mr. G. Forrest.
The flowers are similar in colour to R. intricatum,
but it has distinct protruding stamens, flowers
a month later, and the leaves are ovate-lanceolate.
This must be one of the quickest Rhododendrons
to flower from seeds, plants from a sowing in the
spring of igii flowering fifteen or sixteen months
later in the autumn of 1912. A plant exhibited
by Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, Kent, received an
award of merit from the Royal Horticultural
Society on April 7 this year. The average
height of mature plants is said to be from i foot
to 2 feet.
Supplement to TtlPL GARDEN, June 6th, 1914.
RHODODENDRON INTRICATUM
A New Dwarf Species for the Rock Garden.
Hudson & Ke.inis, L'-ii , Priiileis, Lot.don, S.E.
o
June 6, 1914.
THE GARDEN.
295
FURTHER NOTES ON PEAT
" ROCK GARDENS."
IN fulfilment of the promise 1 gave in my
article upon peat " rockworks ** which
appeared in The Garden of April i8 last,
I now give a list of plants tried, or upon
trial, in them ; but before doing so I
should like to deal with such queries of
general interest as have b^en put to me by
readers of The Garden.
By the " top spit " of the bog I meant that
portion of the top of the bog upon which the
Heather grows. This, when dug out with a sharp
spade and the Heather or other growth trimmed
off, not only looks much better than the slabs of peat
cut from the interior of the bog, but also retains
its shape. The soft slabs of peat are hable to
crack in dry weather and to wear away with
continual rain, whereas the roots of the Heather
in the " top spit " hold it together and prevent
cracking and wearing.
" Loose peat " is the litter — from dust to lumps
the size of one's fist — which is found in and around
where peat is cut for fuel, and the more fibrous
it is the better. The use of dried peat (which
one obtains for stable litter) has been suggested
to me, but I would not advise it. It is very dry
and hard. As regards the question of peat obtained
from limestone districts, I do not think that
traces of lime in the peat are a serious drawback.
Although Azaleas may not like peat from a lime-
stone district, I find that the majority of alpines
are not so particular in this respect. I have
Campanula alpestris (C. AUionii) and other " lime
haters " quite happy in limestone moraines.
As to the proportions of the mixtures in the
special pockets, I do not think one can lay down
a hard-and-fast rule. It is a matter for one's
own judgment, influenced to a certain extent
by a few general principles : (i)
Plants of naturally strong growth,
such as Campanulas, will not need
any addition to the peat soil.
{ 2 ) Plants of slow growth and
those requiring light soil in shade
like an addition of leaf-mould.
(3) Heat-lovers should have a little
leaf-mould and a good deal of sand.
(4) Primulas and moisture-lovers like
an addition of loam, and prefer the
loose peat to be not too fine. They
especially like to root into good-sized
lumps of peat as big as one's fist. I
have a level bed in almost full sun
in which Primula pulverulenta, P.
Munroi, P. Unique, &c., live quite
comfortably squatting upon lumps
of peat without artificial watering.
(5) Haberleas, Ramondias and such
plants seem to prefer the cracks
and joins between the soUd peat
blocks, and, when once established
in them, will bear an amount of
sun that would surprise anyone
who hitherto has confined them
to the shadiest rocks. I am under
the impression that Ramondias flower
much better if they are so placed
that they can get a little sun .
without undue scorching. They
certainly flower much earlier, and
by varying their situation one can
prolong their period of flowering.
As regards the " slopes " and " pockets,"
Lliese on the sunny side should be almost level
if they are to retain moisture in the summer,
while upon the shady sides the fall should be sharp
to enable the excessive winter rains to run off.
It is an advantage to build your peatwork as soon
as possible after the receipt of the large blocks
from the bog. They are then fresh and moist,
and if, as they are built up, their edges are care-
fully pressed together and any cracks packed
tightly with soft peat of the consistency of cream
clieese, the blocks will almost invariably knit
together, and the whole cliff will assume the
appearance of a solid block.
A correspondent suggests utiUsing peat blocks
cut for fuel, but these have obvious disadvantages.
They are small {the blocks should be about a
yard square), dry and non-fibrous, and I should
think much more expensive to buy.
I have received numerous queries as to cost,
but these I find the most difficult to answer.
As a rule, there is not much difficulty in obtaining
the top spit and the refuse loose peat from bogs
cut for fuel. Both are practically useless to the
fuel cutter, and can be obtained for very little
beyond the price of cartage. This, of course,
varies with the locahty ; but in any case the
price of the cartage must compare very favourably
with that of soil or stones. The peat is so light
that' horses can pull a load of peat blocks which
would cover a space three or four times larger,
than any load of rocks they could draw.
The following list includes all plants put on
the peatworks up to the present planting season.
Where no letters are added, they are growing
in pm:e peat. Where they are growing in mixtures,
the letters S, L and M have been added to indicate
that either sand, leaf -mould or mould (loam)
has been mixed with the peat. In addition,
it must be understood that plants liking sun
and also moisture {such as Gentiana vcrna and
Ranunculi) have stone chips — a few round the
roots and others scattered upon the surface —
to prevent too rapid evaporation.
Campiiuulfi pull.-t
,. pulloides
,, alaskana
,, valdensLs
,, Hostii
,, turbinata
garganica
Arabis stricta, S for all
,, turrlta
, , alpina
, , androsacca
,, Sturli
,, blepharophylla
Arnohia echioides, SL
Andromeda tetrajiona
Androsace Leichtlini, S
,, carnea
,, Chumbyi, S
Asperula subcrosa, S
Alyssnm alpinum, S
.. citrinum
,, gemonense
Aquilegia cspnik'U
., flabcllata
., formosa
An;naria montaiia
, , verna
, . csBspitosa
Anemone valdeni^ip, L
, , blanda
,, Allenii
., Halleri, SL
,, miiltifida
,, alpina
,, oregona
,, burseriana
,, fnt«rmedia
,, robinsoniaii.i., L
,, sylvestris major
Armeria Cephalotos
,, csespitosa
Azalea molhs
., rosaeflora
Allium acuminatum, S
,, cyaneum
., Nevii
Belllum bellidioides
Bryanthus empetriformis
,, glanduliformis
Borago laxiflora
Brodisea grandiflora, S
Codonopsis ovata, SL
,, grandiflora, SL
Caltha polysepala, M
,, leptosepala, M
Campanula azurea
,, Leutweinii
,, macrorhiza
,, ceespitosa
,, carpatioa
,, pusilla
, , raddeana
,, acutangula
,, sarmentosa
C>i:isus purpurea
Conandron rainondioides, L
Convolvulus althseoidea, Si,
Clintonia uniflora
Calypso borealis, LM
Claytonia asarifolia
Carlina acaulis. L
Castillea acuminata, L
Douylasia lavigata, Sl>
Daphne odorata
,, blagayana
,, Cncorum
Dianthus deltoid^s
,, superbus
,, crucntus
Erica varictic^s
Erysimum pnlchelhiin
Erodium Relchardi, SL
,, trichomanarfolium, S
,, hybridum
Eriogonum umbcllatum, S
Erigeron mucronatus
,, intermedia
,, salsuginosus
,, Andersoni, S
ErythTonium minor, L
,, Sraithii
,, grandiflora
Goodyera Jlenziesii, L
Gentiana verna, L
,, acaulis
,, Walujewi, M
,, Olivieri, M
,, Kesselringi, M
,. tibctica, M
,, Clusii, M
,, excisa, M
,, Froelichii, SL
,, sceptrum, L
,, septemfida, L
,, asclepiadea
Galax aphylla
Geranium Traversi, S
,, lancastriense
, , striata
Gerardia tcnuifolia
Gaultheria ovalifolium
,, Shallou
Haberlea rhodopensis, L
Hypericum repens, S
A STREAMSIDE VIEW IN LADY WANTAGE'S GARDENS.
296
THE GARDEN.
June 6, 1914.
Hypericum reptans, S
Hepaticas
Houstonia serpyllifolia, SL
Il>erts gibraltarica, S
Jeftersonia diphylla, SL
,, dubia, SL
Xris tectorum, S
Lychnis Sartori
Lippia canescens, S
Lithospormum oleoides. SL
for all
Froebeli
prostratum
rosmarinifoliuni
purpureum-caeruleum
graminifolium
intermedium
,, ZoUingieri
Linarifl hepaticsefolia
,, origanlfolia
Llnnsa canadense, L
Lindeloflii spectabilis
Lvsichitum kamschatkonse,
M
Mazns Pumilio
„ rugosus
Meconopsis cambrica fl.-pl.
,, aculeata, L
„ Wallichii, L
„ integrifolia, L
Myosotis Ruth Fischer
,, azorica
, , rupicola
„ Rheisteineri
,, Wehvitschei, S
Mertensia echioides
„ elongata
,, virginica
,, elegans
,, primuloides
„ p. chitralensis
,, paniculata
, , sibirica
Mimulus radicans
,, primuloides
„ ringens, M
,, alsinoides
„ masculosus vars., M
Noccaea aipina
Ouri&ia coccinea
„ macrophylla
Omphalodes \erna
,, nitida
„ cappadocica, SL
Onosma albo-rosea, SL
Oxalis floribunda
,, enncaphylla, SL
,, e. rosea
,, adenophylla, SL
Orobus cyaneijs
Ranunculus myssanua
„ gramineus
,, amplexicaulis
„ parnassifolius
,, kernsrianue, L
,, anemonoides, L
Saxifraga ascendcns
,, aquatica
, , retusa
,, sarraentosa, S
„ reflexa, S
,, cltrina, S
,, muscoides varieties
,, cymosa, SL
,, nevadensis, SL
,, biternata
,, coniferffi
,, apiculata, SL
,, burseriana, S
,, brunoniana, S
,, Blairii, S
,, aconitifoiia
,, mutata
,, Haussmanni
, , aspera
,, LyalUi
, , cernua
„ granulata
,, nivalis
„ rufldula
Saxiiraga integrifolia
,, illacina, SL
,, Aizoou lutea, S
„ -A. rosea, S
Sedum spathuhfolium
,, pulchellum
„ pilosum, S
Semper\'i\'um robustura, S
Silene Schafta
,, monochorum
Sanguinaria canadensis, L
Shortia palacifolia, SL
Synthyris reniformis, S
Spiranthes Romanzoffla, L
Smilacina stellaia
Streptoptis amplexifolius
Trillium grandidorum
Tanakea radicans
Tulipa kaufmanniana. L
Trollius varieties
Viola gracilis
,, declinata
,, Elatior, S
,, munbyana
,, cornuta
,, olympica
, , florairensis
,, septentrionalis L
,, rothomagensis
,, ciiculata, M
FORGET-ME-NOTS (MYOSOTIS ALPESTRIS) NATURALISED IN THE WOODLAND.
Globus vernus
Giinothera rhizocarpa
J , mexicana
„ marginata
Papaver pilosum, S
,, rupifragum, S
Pentstemon Menziohiii, SL
,, puboscens pyumsea
Pratia angulata
,, ilicifolia
Phlox subulata varieties
Polemonium hybridum
,, roseum
Primula bulleyana, M for all
., Lissadell x
,, pulverulent*
. . beesiana
.. cockburniana
,, caslimeriana
, , pseudo-capitata
,, capitata
,, capitellata
,, kaufmanniana, L
,, llttoniana, SL
., Sueptltzi
,, involucratu
, , sibirica
,, slkkimensis
,, cortusoides
Primula deflexa, SL
,, giraldiana, SL
„ Heeri
„ Eltheri
,, ciliata varieties
,, Auricula varieties
,, bibora, L
,, minima, L
,, Floerkeana, L
,, Peyritschii
Parocaryum angustifolium
Parnassia flmbriata, M
Polygala Cnamaibuxus
,, VayredsB
Potentilla ambigua, S
,, Tonguei, S
,, Miss Willmott
,, glabra, S
,, nevadensis, S
Paronychia serpyllifolium
Ramondia varieties
IU)scoea purpurea, SL
,, cautlioides, SL
RomanzoflBa sitchcnsiti
Rubus pedatns
Ranunculus Flammula, M
,, glacially, M
,, crenatus
,, rutffifolius
Viola bosniaea, S
,, adunca
,, glabella, M
,, ■ sarmentosa, S
,, palustris, M
,, atlanlica
Veronica Whittallli
,, circffioides
, , canterburyensis
,, X Autumn Glory
Knapton, Abbey Leix,
Veronica edenensis
,, tellimoides, S
,, fllifolia, S
,, repens
,, balfouriana
,, Bidwillii
,, Hectori
,, decumbens
,, cupressoides
Murray Hornibrook.
Ireland.
BEAUTIFUL DWARF PHLOX.
A
One of the most attractive herbaceous plants
at the present time is Lapham's Phlox, P.
divaricata Laphamii. The soft blue flowers are
borne in great profusion from i foot to i8 inches
high, and it is worthy of a place in all gardens.
Grown in a mass, it reminds one of a large cluster
of blue Plumbago.
GOLD MEDAL ROSES.
HAVING met with many disappoint-
ments after a full and fair trial, I
have looked up the list of new Roses
that gained the gold medal of the
National Rose Society since that
honour was offered. It is recognised,
both at home and abroad, that no other award
surpasses, or even equals, this ; and yet I find no
fewer than fifteen winning varieties that are not
even mentioned in the last extensive list of Roses
issued by the National Rose Society ! Up to
1908 they have discarded from the most extensive
list published in Great Britain no fewer than
fifteen of our premier gold medal Roses, and I
venture to assert that some of the fifty-two gold
medal holders that have won since that time will
before long join the great majority, so far as general
culture is concerned.
The following are the fiiteen not
included in the official list of the
National Rose Society ; but I must
honestly say a few of them are really
good, if not sufficiently so to have
satisfied the large catalogue com-
mittee : Sir Rowland Hill, Salaman-
der, Ulster, Marchioness of Dufferin,
Marchioness of Downshire,
Marchioness of Londonderry, Purity,
Mrs. James Cocker, Sunrise, Alice
Lindsell, Ben Cant, Duchess of
Portland, Queen Alexandra, Edith
D'ombrain and Mrs. Campbell Hall.
Many that are still retained in
the official catalogue are of very little
use, except to provide an occasional
bloom for the exhibitor. 1 doubt
even if Edith D'ombrain exists,
except in two or three gardens besides
that of the raiser or introducer.
No one else catalogues it so far
as I can discover. Then we have
such virulent mildew breeders as
Mildred Grant, Queen of Spain,
Bessie Brown, His Majesty and Her
Majesty among the gold medal holders,
six of the very worst as regards that
disease.
There are many winners of silver-
silt medals and cards of commen-
dation at the meetings of our
very deserving society (for which
I have the greatest respect) that are
not catalogued and are but little
grovm.
What am I driving at ? Well, let us be more
careful, and if not possessed of plenty of money,
time and ground, confine ourselves more to the
numerous well-tried and proved Roses that are
better worth the high prices asked, and which
we can obtain at cheaper rates. Some of the new
and lauded improvements are priced at los. 6d.,
7s. 6d. and 5s., while one was sent out at 21s.
a plant. Upon most occasions, too, these are by no
means strong or vigorous plants, and take some
time to become established. Good ground plants
of the finest varieties can be obtained at gd. and is.
each now, and I am only warning beginners against
the folly of imagining they have something so
superbly better in our newer Roses, while at the
same time admitting that many of them are real
gems that have certainly come to stay. Let us wait
and see. Wc are not hard driven for good Roses.
Sussex A. P.
June 6, 1914.J
THE GARDEN.
297
GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.
SUGGESTIONS FOR SUMMER FLOWER-BEDS.
Opinions in reference to methods or plans of bed-
ding out may possibly long continue to vary in a
more or less degree, but I venture to think that the
associated with Tulips, and
Wallflowers and Polyanthuses.
on vacant ground in the shrubbery borders, and
sow freely in the wild garden and
■ woodland. Once sown in favourable
surroundings, self-sown seedlings come
up in quantity annually. In small
n company with Varieties.— Several species and a considerable
Scatter the seeds number of varieties are grown in gardens. The one
SUGGESTED DESIGN
FOR A SLOPING
FOR DETAILS.
BORDER. SEE TEXT
majority, at any rate, of amateur gardeners have
come to the conclusion that the once general
(I had almost said universal), and therefore
favourite, because fashionable, formal " straight-
line " system is not the most pleasing, because,
generally speaking, not the most artistic, the result
being the opposite of restful to sensitive tempera-
ments. In the matter of laying out our gardens
there is no doubt that the nearer the approach
to the ways of Nature herself, the more satisfactory
all-roimd results shall we obtain. It is, of course,
admitted at once that the " straight-row " method
is the easiest to arrange ; but this being practically
its only recommendable point, the present-day
gardener who wishes for quality in arrangement,
as well as in culture, of his plants will not grudge
a little extra time in introducing his own individu-
ality into his beds and borders. This is really
the burden of the suggestions contained in this
article, for probably no given plan will meet the
desires or requirements of any in every respect.
A practical illustration or two, however, may
possibly serve some useful purpose as a sort of
basis, alterations and variations from which,
both in form and flower, can be made to suit
individual tastes.
Fig. I is a suggestion of double-lace pattern
for a sloping border, the back rows of which
could be composed of, say. Marguerites in two
shades of colour, and the front rows planted with
duplex shades of Nemesia, care being, of course,
taken to choose well-blending colours in every case
of intermingling. In the front gaps Violas could
be planted — one colour in each space — and a half-
standard Fuchsia placed in the centre dot spaces.
In Fig. 2 the central triangular line could
' be composed of Nicotiana hybrids, with early
; flowering Cosmos in the three dot spaces. The next
cross-over rows might consist of two colours of
Antirrhinums, the front being edged with Ten-
week Stocks, and Lobelia used as a border.
Fig. 3 is illustrative of a style which can, of
course, be filled according to taste, each space
marked out representing a bed of one variety,
I with dot plants of taller growth placed in the
backgroimd, and having a border of some dwarf
I species. B. W. Lewis.
illustrated on page 296 is M. alpestris ; the early
Forget-me-not is M. dissitiflora; the common Forget-
me-not, M. palustris ; and the Wood Forget-me-not,
M. sylvatica. These are the best for the pleasure
grounds and shrubberies. Then for the flower-
town and suburban gardens Forget- | beds the seedsmen have given much time and
me-nots may be used to brighten up thought to the raising of improved varieties,
what are otherwise rather dull comers These include Perfection, bright blue, rose, and
where few plants will thrive, such, ; white ; Victoria, erect growing and freely branched,
for instance, as the sunless damp : sold in three colours, blue, white, and rose ; Royal
north border, tufts among hardy j Blue, a lovely dark indigo blue ; Star of Love
(Love Star), dwarf, bright blue ; Dwarf Blue
(nana compacta) ; and Dwarf White, useful for
edgings to beds and borders.
Myosotis In Pots.— To decorate the greenhouse
from Christmas onwards and to supply a few cut
flowers for decoration in midwinter, seedsmen
have been working on a special strain of Forget-
me-nots for pot culture. The plants may be grown
in a frame and cold greenhouse, but are better
if the greenhouse is just heated sufficiently to
keep out frosts. Sow the seeds in a frame during
June. Grow three plants in a triangular fashion
in a 5-inch pot and place in a cold frame till
November, when they should be moved to the
greenhouse shelf. The seeds are usually sold
under the name of the Pot Myosotis.
Ferns, and the shady front garden. The pale blue
Myosotis alpestris is very popular at Kew, where it
is freely used to carpet the ground beneath
deciduous shrubs, one particularly effective com-
bination being a bed of the pale pink-flowered
Tamarisk (Tamarix tetrandra) above the blue-
flowered Myosotis. Another lovely contrast is a
DESIGN FOR A
SUMMER BED
BOLD EFFECT.
TO CREATE A
bed of Myosotis and tall yellow Tulips, Mrs.
Moon or Parisian Yellow, for instance.
Time to Sow. — June is the month to sow
Forget-me-not seeds. Sow where the plants
are to flower, or on a spare piece of ground from
which the seedlings can be transplanted in Septem-
AGAPANTHUSES FOR THE OUT-
DOOR GARDEN.
These attractive blue-flowering plants, so often
grown in tubs for standing on terraces and
walks, may now be removed from their winter
quarters and placed in the open. Old-
established plants will benefit by top-dressing,
previous to which a quantity of the surface soil
may be removed. During the season they should
be frequently watered with liquid manure.
CALCEOLARIA MRS. GLADSTONE.
Although Calceolarias of the bedding class are not
nearly so much required as they were a few years
ago, when they were frequently employed, they are
still essential in many gardens, and anything out of
the usual run of colouring or appearance in other
respects is appreciated. One of the finest we have
ever seen is a most effective variety called Mrs.
Gladstone. It originated in the Vale of Leven, where
Self- it was raised by an amateur, and it has been greatly
V 7^ T-
-/.. -T^ -.-
FORGET-ME-NOTS FROM SEEDS.
I Every garden should contain Forget-me-nots.
I They are among the daintiest of spring flowers,
J and very easy to grow successfully. The plants
I will thrive and blossom freely in moist soils and
1 positions in sim, and where not too heavily shaded
I if the ground is moist. Use the Forget-me-not
lor Myosotis freely in the spring bedding schemes
-A' i .<-
ber or October to the flowering positions,
sown seedlings and those sown where
they are to flower should be thinned
to allow the plants to attain their
full size and beauty. Naturalised in
the wild garden and woodland, thin-
ning is seldom attempted ; but in
the garden proper the reward of
liberal thinning is seen in larger,
more vigorous plants, freely
branched and covered with good-
sized flowers. When planting Myosotis in beds admired wherever seen. This Slipperwort has
and borders, set them out 3 inches to ' large flowers of crimson, deeply margined with
4 inches apart. Though, as previously noted, gold, while its height is a foot to 15 mches or
Forget-me-nots thrive in most soUs, it pays to 18 inches. It is almost hardy, and the shelter of
give the ground a dressing of manure previous a cold frame is quite sufBcient for it m ordinary
to planting, or a watering with liquid manure winters. It is found most valuable in some of
A BORDER WHERE
PLANTS SHOULD BE
CENTRAL SPACES.
MASSED IN THE
at the beginning of April, when the flower-spikes
are pushing up.
the Glasgow parks, such as in the old garden of
Ibrox Hill in Bellahouston Park.
298
THE GARDEN.
[June 6, 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
Midseason Vines.— In well-drained borders
these Vines wni now require liberal supplies of
water and some stimulant must be given to en-
courage the growth of large berries. It is well to
va^ the stimulant from time to time and alway
guSd against overdoing it. Promote a mo'^t
Itmosphere and a free circulation of air while the
weTher is favourable. Thin out lateral growth
To That the foliage may not become overcrowded.
Late Vineries.— All late Grapes should be
thinned as soon as possible, and when this has
been accomplished the borders should be lightly
pricked over and a good watermg of manure-
water from the farmyard given, and after a few
riavsa mulching of decayed manure should be
applied Ventilation must'have careful attention,
especiallv in the early morning. _
Earlv Peach and Nectarines Trees in Pots.—
Most of the fruits will have been gathered from early
trees which will require careful attention m order
0 prepare them for next season's forcing Remove
he trees to their summer quarters, and allow plenty
of space between them. Do not aUow them to
suffer from want of moisture at the roots, and
syringe the foliage frequently in dry weather
EarT/ permanent trees should also receive liberal
treatment. Remove all worthless growth which
s norrequired for next season s work, and use
the syrmge freely among the foliage to keep it
in a c^ean, healthy condition, the ventilators bemg
left open night and day.
-iU be completed towards the end of
October, and the midrib of the leaf, which is the portioD
to be cooked, ^vill be ready for use.
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
Eceri/ department of horticulture is represented in The
Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in giiestions
relating to matters up^n which they ivish expert advice.
The Editor ivelcomes pJtotographs. articles and notes,
but he vrill not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, hoivever, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.
As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinrth/ understood that inibi the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright irill he treated uiih.
The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literari/ contributions uhich fie may not he able to use. and
the receipt ot a proof must not be taken as eitdcMe that an
article is accepted. PublicMion in THE Garden ivill alone
be recoqnis d ^ acceptance.
Offices : '20, Tavis'.ock Street, Covent Oardin, W.C
MISCELLANEOUS.
YELLOW AND BROWN MUSTARD SEED (F. Z.).—
There are two kinds of Mustard grown for commercial
jmrposes, Brassica alba and B. nigra. The seeds of the
former are yellow, wliiic those of the latter are brownish.
The seeds of the two kinds are usually mixed before
grinding for commercial mustard, but when ground
separately the seeds of B. nigra produce a much darker
powder than those of B. alba.
LARV/E OF WINTER MOTH (E. J. H.).— The grubs
are the larvje of the winter moth. This insect attacks
a large variety of trees, and all the fruit trees are subject
to its atta.ck. It would be well to spray the trees imme-
diately with lead arsenate solu'ion, martn according 1o
the directions furnished with the material as bought from
the sundriesmen. This spray material, which is, of courEc,
very poisonous, should be purchased in the paste form.
SOIL PESTS (Rev. W. E.O.).— \\e think your best
[ilan will be to make hole? at intervals cf a yard on botU
.■^ijes of the row of Sweet Peas and about nine inches
to twelve inches away from the plants, and pour into each
a tcaspoonfui of carbon bisulphide. The holes ought t(
be about eight inches or nine inches deep, and should
be covered in immediately the liquid is poured in. Tlie
fumes will then dilfuse in the soil and kill the insects
uithout damaging the roots of the Sweet Peas. It is
important to keep the liquid, which is very deadly to
animal life, af far as possible from r. light, even that of
a glowing cigar, as it is extremely inttammable, though
Ihc temptation to smoke while using it is great, owing-
to its evil odour,
NAMES OF PLANTS.— ii'. W. A.—l, Heuchera win
guinea ; 2, Asperula odorata. IF. E. P. — Scilla
peruviana. Mrs. Sartorius. — 1. Rubus deliciosus ;
2, Prunua cerasifera. Good Busb^nd^ West Riding. — 1^
Phlox amoena ; 2. Sedum roseum. F. M., Bucks. —
Veronica gentianoides,— ^H. B. — 1. Spirsea van Houttei|
2. Polygonatum biflorum ; 3, Saxifraga caualieulata; 4,
Fuchsia, garden variety ; 5, Phyllocactus A(kermannii; 6.
Iris pallida. C. R. W., Comwidl. — Tricuspidaria
dt'pendcns, syn. Crinodendron hiokerianum.
GARDEN.
^dsi^
-^5'— y^
No. 2221— Vol. LXXVIII.
June 13, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
I
New Fellows of the Royal Horticultural
Society. — At the meeting of the above society
held on Wednesday, the 3rd inst., 230 new Fellows
were elected. We understand that this number
has only been exceeded once before.
Roses and Clematises. — A very charming
effect can be obtained by planting the Moimtain
Clematis, C. montana, and the beautiful Rose
Carmine Pillar so that they may ramble together
at will. The instance we have in mind is where
they have been growing for some years
over an old Ivy-covered summer-house
in a wild, carelt'ss way without receiving
any attention.
The Iris Border at Clandon. — irises
have long been a feature of the beauti-
ful gardens at Clandon Park, Surrey,
and seldom has the Iris border looked
better than at the present time. The
border runs by the side of a lake. Iris
sibirica and its varieties are grown
by the lakeside with their roots in
water, while those Irises belonging
to the germanica, pallida, squalens and
flavesccns sections are now freely
flowering in the border. One remark-
able feature of the border is that in
the great wealth of bloom some
varieties are flowering that have not
done so for years.
The Burning Bush. — This interest-
ing plant, known by the botanical
name of Dictamnus Fraxinella, is one
of the most striking and interesting
herbaceous plants in flower at the
present time. Its stately, erect spikes
of either white or purplish flowers stand
out very conspicuously. The hot, dry
weather does not in the least affect
either flowers or leaves, and they will
remain fresh for some time either
growing or cut. Apart from this, the
plant does not grow to any great
size, which is an advantage for small
gardens. It is an excellent subject for
naturalising in the wild garden, and
derives its common name from the fact that in
the evening, after a very hot day, frmies are given
off, which will sometimes ignite when a lighted
match is held just over the plant.
A Beautiful Dwarf Pink. — One of the most
attractive features in the rock garden at Kew
just now is a colony of Pink Spencer Bickham.
The plagts are situated by the steps leading from
the Orchid-houses, and are creating quite a blaze
of colour. This variety was raised some years
ago by crossing the Cheddar Pink (Dianthus
caesius) with the Maiden Pink (D. deltoides).
The flowers in size and shape resemble those of
the first-named parent, but are of a much more
brilliant rose colour. It is a Pink that ought to
be much better known than it is. In common
with most others of its race, it needs well-drained
soil, but beyond that does not present any serious
cultural difficulties.
An Uncommon Hardy Annual. — Why is it
that Collomia coccinea is so seldom seen in
^THE IRIS BORDER AT CLANDON PARK.
gardens ? Just now we have a number of self-
sown plants that withstood the winter, and each
has made quite a small bush from 12 inches to
15 inches- high and nearly as much in diameter.
Each shoot is terminated by a cluster of vermilion
red blossoms, which resemble very much in appear-
ance those of the smaller- flowered Bouvardias.
From past experience we know that the plants
will continue the display over a long period,
and will produce seed freely and so perpetuate
themselves. This hardy annual will thrive in
almost any kind of soil, and we commend it to
those of our readers who appreciate dainty flowers.
It is interesting to find a native of Chili with-
standing our winters.
Rose Conrad F. Meyer. — What a glorious
Rose this hybrid rugosa is ! Anyone who wants
a strong-growing variety to scramble over trellis
or rustic poles, or to climb the side of the dwelling-
house, should make a note of it now to plant next
autumn. We have had a young bush flowering
for the last month, its large, full, silvery
pink flowers being produced in abun-
dance. As these emit the true old-
fashioned Rose perfume, and that in
bountiful degree, we have no hesitation
in proclaiming it one of the best pillar
or rambling Roses. It is also good
in the autumn.
Dwarf Flowering and Berried
Shrubs. — The Pemettyas are attractive
shrubs, and are worthy of notice for
the beauty of their berries during the
winter months. But apart from the
fruits they are worthy of recpgnition
at the present time, when they are
laden with their small, Lily-of-the-
Valley-like flowers. Owing to the
waxy texture of the blossoms, they
remain in good condition for a long
time if small sprays are gathered and
placed in water just as the blossoms
are about to expand. The purity of
the blossoms makes a striking contrast
to the reddish colour of the bark and
i] the dark green of the mature foliage.
Pernettyas are well worthy of a place
.'i among flowering shrubs, and will suc-
'-{ ceed in any soil providing it is free
;| from lime.
s A Charming Bramble for the Rock
Garden. — Rubus arcticus, the beautiful
alpine Raspberry, is an excellent little
plant for a damp, shady spot. Although
one of the smallest of the genus, only
growing from 5 inches to 6 inches high, it
is one of the most attractive with its rosy
purple flowers, each the size of a shilling. It is
very free, both in growth and in the production
of flowers, and a smajl piece will soon form a large
mass. Apart from its attractive flowers, the
fruit is also very ornamental when produced in
quantity, as well as being nutritious, for Linn^us
in his " Flora Lapponica " states that often, when he
was sinking with hunger and fatigue, he was revived
by the wine from these berries, and some people
in the North of Sweden make a syrup, a jelly
and a wine from them.
302
THE GARDEN.
[June 13, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
[The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
Draba (Petrocallis) pyrenaica.— Surely the
note in The Garden of May 23 about this nice
alpine is belated, and [therefore misleading.
" Just now it is opening its flowers " ; with me
they are over. It begins to flower in the first week
of April ; in the third week it is sometimes so
closely set with them that hardly a leaf is visible.
At the present time it is a bright green cushion.
— Herbert Maxwell, Mcnreith. (At the time
the note referred to was written, i.e., May 18,
this plant was in full flower in several
gardens in the London district. — En.l
Hardy Cypripediums. — In the inter-
esting article on this subject (page 271)
" W. I." does not mention Cypripedium
mandschuricum (a beautiful C. Calceolus
with big flowers), C. microsaccos (with
brown and pink flowers), and the three
beautiful varieties of C. ventricosum,
C. V. album, C. v. lutescens and C. v.
roseum. These three varieties are far
the best of all the hardy Cypripediums.
We had them in flower last week, and
everybody who saw the beauty of our
sheltered bed was enthusiastic over these
three varieties. We grow them under
shade in our umbrosum, without any
protection in winter, but rather dry.
They seem to be hardier and easier
to grow than C. macranthum. — H.
CoRREVON, Floraire, Geneva.
The very interesting article on
hardy Cypripediums which appeared in
your issue of May 23, page 271, prompts
me to send a photograph of Cypripe-
dium Calceolus. It has reddish brown
sepals and a yellow pouch. I note
that it is referred to as a native species.
I have often seen it described as a
native plant, but so far have not yet
had the pleasure of finding it in the
wild state. One work that I have by
me says that it grows on the Cots-
wolds in turf in very gritty, fibrous
limestone soil in full sun. I have
searched in vain in this and other
localities for this plant, and am of the
opinion that it is now extremely rare,
if not extinct, in the wild state in
Nature.— C. Q.
Hybrid Primula Leddy Pilrig.— in
reply to Mr. Amott's note in May 30
issue of The Garden relating to the
:;bove Primula, and especially to
that part of it which deals with the parentage
of same, I assure him that the parentage
as given by me is perfectly correct. Had 1
been in the habit of hybridising at random
(which I am not), even then I would have
had httle difficulty in tracing the origin of
the hybrid, as certain distinct characteristics
from both parents are clearly stamped on it.
For the benefit of readers of The Garden
who take an interest in hybrid Primulas, I here
give the names of the parents of the hybrid
Primula in question. They are as follow : P.
bulleyana and P. beesiana, P. bulleyana being the
seed parent. The colour of the hybrid combines the
purple red of P. beesiana with the apricot of P.
bulleyana. It has a faint Auricula-like perfume,
which it takes from the pollen parent, P. beesiana.
Apart from the question of parentage of P.
Leddy Pilrig, I thank Mr. Amott for his
favourable criticism of its merits as a plant. —
W. Robertson.
Early Gooseberries and Vegetables. — I began
picking Gooseberries on May 7. I also dug
Potatoes (Sharpe's Victor) and cut a dish of
Globe Artichokes on May 30. These were of good
size and quality, and both were from the open
ground. The late frost has done no damage
here. I have been a reader of your valuable
paper for years, and have picked up many
real helpful hints from its columns. — Frank
Mitchell, The Gardens, Beacon Grange,
Hexham - on - Tyne, Northumberland.
A RARE BRITISH ORCHID, CYPRIPEDIUM CALCEOLUS
THIS IS SELDOM FOUNT) NOW IN A WILD STATE.
Our Native Flowers. — In your issue for May 30,
page 279, there is an interesting letter on the simi-
larity of our native flowers in separated districts.
In regard to the Blackthorn, here on the Wiltshire
Downs the profusion of bloom was marvellous
this spring. Hedges were full of bloom, and small
trees only a few feet high were literally crammed
with blossoms, the effect of these masses of white
standing out against the dark green of the Pines,
or mingling with the delicate April green of other
trees, being most effective and beautiful. Gorse
has been plentiful, but scarcely so abundant as
last jear, when every bush was a bla?e of yellow.
Last year, however. Hawthorn was conspicuous
by its absence, for, of all the hundreds of
trees in the district, not one was seen with
any clusters of bloom. This spring every tree
is flowering abundantly, and filling the air with
a pleasant fragrance. These trees have not
been affected by the bitter wind and severe
frost of the 25th and 26th ult., though many
wild flowers, such as Campions and Stitchwort,
look shrivelled up, and the Bracken in sheltered
dells seems scorched as if by fire. — E. A. P.
Wilts.
The Pollination of Fruit Trees.— The recent
importation of Dutch bees should, apart from the
profit of honey produced, also prove of considerable
assistance to fruit-growing. Late frosts, insect
and fungoid pests may accoimt for many fruit
failures, but I venture to say that non-pollina-
tion IS the cause of not a few. Certain it is
that where bees are kept, fruit sets
more freely. To this most of us will
agree. For example, as to distribu-
tion of pollen, take the wet flowering
season of last year and the poor crop
that followed. The same period of this
year, though not without its frosts,
particularly sharp on May 2, but dry,
and pollen easily distributed, resulted
in the splendid prospects of a fruit
crop this year. Also, some varieties of
fruit trees, being self-sterile, require the
pollen from another variety which may
be some distance away. In this case
the help of the bee is most useful.
Growers of fruit under glass have their
artificial means of pollination, not
trusting to chance. Fruit in the
open is dependent in this respect
entirely on natural agencies, which
may be assisted by bees. Therefore
the introduction of still larger quantities
of bees should be welcomed, and
growers, cottagers and others encouraged
in every way to keep them. — F.
Marshall.
Emmerton on the Auricula. — In
The Garden for May 30, page viii.,
your correspondent G. F. W. Herbert,
in his notes about Isaac Emmerton,
which originally appeared in Hogg's
Supplement to his " Treatise on
Florists' Flowers," falls into an
error where he says that Emmerton's
famous treatise on the Auricula was
published in 1818. Emmerton pub-
lished the first edition of that work
in 1815, and the second appeared
in 1819. Although Hogg claims to
have had some share in the writing
of it, yet on reading Emmerton's
preface it is not apparent that it
Was other than an independent effort
of his own, and Emmerton was dead v.hen
Hogg's Supplement was published. There is
nowhere any record of an 1818 edition, and
probably that date may have been a mere slip
of the pen on the part of your correspondent or a
printer's error. Both Johnson and Lady Amherst,
in their bibliographies, give the year 1816 as the,
date of Emmerton's publication, but this date can-
not have been verified. Johnson makes no reference
to a second issue, while Lady Amtierst does, and
places it under its proper date, 1819. The first
edition is exclusively an Auricula treatise, but the
later one contains chapters on the Polyanthus,
Carnation, Pink and Ranunculus. Both editions
are in my library, and the dates given'by me are
unquestionable. — C. H. P.
June 13, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
303
Protecting Fruit Blossom. — We gardeners
in the North are much interested in the notes
about the protection of fruit blossom during the
early months of summer. It may prove sur-
prising to readers who live in the sunny South
to know that 1 have to protect my Pears here ;
if I did not, the crop would be infinitesimal.
Last year I had twelve large sashes over my
choicest kinds, and the others were protected with
mats ; but, in spite of all that, the crop was far
from satisfactory. Of course, it must be men-
tioned that the soil is not of the highest order
for Pear-growing, since it is heavy and cold ;
yet, after many years' " manufacture," it ought
to be fairly good now. Most of the trees are on
the east and north walls, and so sheltered from
the worst winds (near Glasgow). For the past
six years I have been trying to find a good variety
outside the older sorts that will suit my place ;
but, though I have patronised nurserymen in all
parts of the country, I have not yet had the satisfac-
tion I desire. The laborious practice of protecting
the trees during their period of bloom seems
inevitable, and I have resigned myself to the
unlucky Fates which planted me — and the Pears —
in an uncongenial district. — H. H. A., Glasgow.
Vitality of Seeds. — With regard to this subject,
referred to by Mr. Charles Comfort on page xx. of
The Garden for May 23, I may, perhaps, be
allowed to add a few words to show that some
seeds more than others have a tendency to retain
their vitality for long periods before germinating,
and are more or less constant in this habit. Many
years ago I visited the extensive grounds of Mr.
Rufus Usher at Bodicote, near Banbury, where
medicinal plants of several kinds were systematic-
ally cultivated. Among these were two forms of
Henbane (Hyoscyamus niger), the forms being
known respectively as annual and biennial. The
latter, producing only a large tuft of spreading
radical leaves during the first year, is the most
valued for its medicinal properties, extract of
Henbane being prepared from them. I remember
being told at the time of my visit that the Henbane
was a very uncertain plant in its mode of growth,
as the seeds were often known to lie in the groimd
for some years before germinating. At this distance
of time I do not remember the number of years
that had been known to elapse, but other crops,
like Potatoes, were often got off the land at intervals
before the Henbane crop was realised. We all
know how some people still stick to the story
of the Mummy Pea, but between the Pea, the Hen-
bane and Mr. Charles Comfort's plants there is
a wide range of years, so that some reasonable
conclusion may yet be arrived at. — John R.
Jackson, Claremont, Lympstone, Devon.
Too-mucta-alike Auriculas. — ^There is no doubt
that many of the AuricuJas are too much alike,
and " Taplow " is justified in calling attention
to the matter. Here is a fine chance for the
National Auricula Society to follow the Sweet
Pea Society, and classify the various forms and
let the cult know which are really distinct.
Catalogues and lists are often bewildering to
amateurs, while the professional gardener would
be saved a lot of time and trouble if he was told
which were similar. Many are not up to show
form, although they may be good" garden plants ;
it does not always follow that show plants are the
best for general purpose . The following twelve
would be useful, and j produce a varied display
in due season : Argus, Bluebell, Duke of York,
Firefly, Rosy Mom, Uranie, Teviotdale, Thetis,
The Bride, Mrs. H. '"umer. Dazzle and Miss
Ashton. In a list before me they are quoted
at IS. and is. 6d. each, and flowering samples
are sent out. There are other good and distinct
kinds, but the price is accordingly higher, and
this will be readily understood when I say that
some Auriculas are very shy in producing offsets.
Among the selfs are Buttercup, Mikado, Ruby,
Favourite, Mrs. Phillips and Lord of Lome.
These average about 2s. each. Of the green-
edged, Mrs. Henwood is among the best. George
Lightbody, raised over fifty years ago, is still
unsurpassed in the grey-edged, but the constitution
is weak, and the short-pursed novices would do
well to choose the cheaper George Rudd or
Olympus. In the white-edged section. Acme and
Heather Bell are recommended. The edged
kinds are more expensive, and vary from 2s.
to los. 6d., but those quoted are' near the former
figure. Whenever possible, it is best to select
the plants in flower, either in the nursery or at
one of the Auricula shows. — T. W. B.
Snapdragons for Winter. — I was interested
in the description and comments in the issue
of May 2, page 220, on the winter-flowering
Snapdragon (Antirrhinum) Nelrose. There it was
given imder the varietal name Melrose, but that
was an error. The note refers to the perpetual-
blooming character of Nelrose, and says that this
type is largely employed in the United States of
America. These references are correct. Just
after the Chrysanthemums begin to wane early
in December — for the Americans do not want
them later — one begins to see charming Utile
basketfuls of Snapdragon. These are favourites
right on until the Daffodils appear in quantity
in April. The raiser of Antirrhinum Nelrose was
F. W. Fletcher, of the firm of F. W. Fletcher and
Co., Auburndale, Massachusetts, who began opera-
tions over fifteen years ago. At that time the
majus varieties had poor flowers, sparsely set on
the spikes, and there was a need of bright, clear
colours. The first crosses, he tells me, were
made with the best varieties then existing, followed
later by the named sorts of Antirrhinum nanum
grandiflorum. These later crosses gave the
material Mr. Fletcher had been looking for, and
though they were a very mixed crew, it was only
a matter of selection from thousands of seedlings
to get a strain that began to approach to the ideal
of what a commercial- Antirrhinum should be,
i.e., one that would flourish indoors in winter and
produce plenty of attractive cut blooms. So
it was out of these cross-bred seedlings that Nelrose
came, and four years ago Messrs. Fletcher had a
sufficient stock to yield them commercial cut flowers.
The colour is a rich silvery pink, and the flowers
and spikes are large and handsome. Nelrose
is equally good as a bedding plant, growing about
twelve inches high out of doors — in America, at
least. Every growth makes a flowering spike,
so that if the plant is kept growing it must flower,
summer and winter. I am pleased to say that
Mr. Fletcher is of EngMsh descent, and was
bom in Massachusetts fifty-six years ago. He
works on Mendeliau lines in his hybridising and
cross-breeding. Formerly he was editor of the
New England Florist, since merged with the
Florists' Exchange. — J. Harrison Dick, New York.
"THE GARDEN" PLANNING
AND PLANTING COM-
PETITION.
FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
June 13.^ — Stirling Horticultural Association :
Outing to Greenfield, Alloa.
June 16. • — Royal Horticultural Society's and
National Gladiolus Society's Combined Show.
June 17. — Yorkshire Gala (three days).
For the benefit of new readers we are publishing
on page vii. the coupon to be sent for the outline
plans in connection with our competition for
planning and planting the little garden. In
this competition we are offering cash prizes to
the total value of £33 12s., as well as a number
of book prizes, for the best designs for planning
and planting the little garden. Full particulars
will be sent to anyone who writes to the Editor
for them and encloses ijd. in stamps to cover
cost and postage. All envelopes relating to this
competition should be marked " Planning Com-
petition " in the top left-hand comer. Replies
to the numerous questions that have been sent
in by intending competitors will be answered
in our next issue. We would remind readers
that there is no time limit for entering the
competition, but completed designs must be
delivered not later than September i next. We
take this opportunity of thanking those readers
who have so kindly written letters of appreciation
concerning the competition.
UNCOMMON FLOWERS AND
FOLIAGE FOR VASES.
There is a strange dislike to umbelliferous flowers
for vase decorations. Sentiment, perhaps. One
sometimes sees the compact-headed Masterwort
used, but the much prettier loose-headed sorts
scarcely ever, if at all. Some of these are not
only pretty, but they are faintly, and sometimes
strongly, aromatically perfumed, and the foliage
of kinds not particularly desirable for their flowers
is not to be despised. Of the latter, mention
may be made of Spignel, the leaves of which are
elegantly cut, fragrant and very dark green.
Sweet Cicely, which flowers as early as March,
along with nice white flowers has scented. Fern-
like foliage, and is sometimes known by the name
of Sweet Fem.
One of the very prettiest, and which can be
cut in long sprays with foliage and flowers, is the
common garden Chervil . This is a recommendable
vase flower, either for mixing with other kinds
or for using alone, and it can be had from spring
to late autumn. The common Cow Parsley,
which succeeds Sweet Cicely, is also a valuable
asset for certain purposes, but only for its flowers,
which are not fragrant. The common Fennel
and the Giant Fennels, with their greenish yellow
flower-heads and finely divided foliage, are very
useful later in the year, and the humble Carrot,
whether in flower, in seed, or with the reddened
leaves of autumn, affords splendid material for the
decorator. Selinum (Oreocome) CandoUei is an
exotic species that can be recommended for large
arrangements.
The only use I know for Bishopweed, that
most determined colonist and almost ineradicable
weed, is as a cut flower. It is really very hand-
some, and well worth working up with other
early autumn blooms. It is scarcely necessary
to mention the Eryngiums, which form exceptions
to the vast number of umbelliferous flowers by
their deUghtful colouring. What I specially
desire is to draw attention to a vast fund of
decorative material to a large extent ignored and
neglected. R. P. Brotherston.
304
THE GARDEN.
[June 13, 1914.
THE NEWER CHINESE
RHODODENDRONS.
AMONG the almost countless number
of new plants introduced during
recent years from Central and Western
k China, new species of Rhododendron
^ are very prominent. The Himalayas
have, since the travels of Sir William
Hooker, been regarded as the headquarters
of the genus ; but the exploration of China by
Dr. Henry, Mr. E. H. Wilson, Mr. G. Forrest,
and the three French missionaries, Les Abbes
David, Delavay and Farges, has abundantly proved
that Central and Western China
must in future be regarded as the
Rhododendron headquarters. Mr.
E. H. Wilson during his four
journeys collected over seventy
species and several varieties. A
number of these have been known
to botanists and named from dried
specimens for some time, but
many are entirely new introduc-
tions. Some of those which have
already flowered with us are valu-
able additions, though the Rhodo-
dendron already holds pride of
place as our best evergreen flower-
ing shrub. It is worth recording
that nearly all Mr. Wilson's
Rhododendrons are evergreen, a
notable exception being the true
R. sinense, around which and R.
mollis considerable difference of
opinion exists as to their being
synonymous or distinct species.
The rich yellow-flowered R. sinense
seems to support the contention
of nurserymen that our present-
day race of garden Azaleas are
hybrids between the yellow R.
sinense and R. mollis, the type
of which has apparently variable
rosy pink blossoms.
The Chinese Rhododendrons
represent a remarkable diversity
of growth, foliage and flowers.
A few extremes worth noting are
R. intricatum and R. fastigiatum,
alpine species less than i8 inches
high, with leaves half an inch in
length. Contrast these with R.
auriculatum, a large bush or tree
30 feet high, with leaves 3 inches
to 5 inches wide, and sometimes
exceeding a foot in length.
Unfortunately, some of the
newer species flower as early as
March and April, also starting into
growth while we are troubled with spring frosts.
This means that, if possible, positions should
be selected to plant them where they will be shaded
from the early morning sun, so that, in the event
of frost, the foliage can thaw gradually before
the bright rays of the sun reach it. The places
where we shall see those not suitable for general
cultivation will, no doubt, be in the sunny South
and West in company with the Himalayan species
and hybrids. There is another interesting side
to the value of these newer introductions in addition
to their individual value for garden decoration,
and that is for hybridising. Fame awaits the
raiser of a perfectly hardy large-flowered evergreen
yellow or blue flowered Rhododendron. Among
the new species we have at least three with yellow
flowers, R. ambiguum, R. lutescens and R. flavidum,
while there is a lot of blue in R. intricatum and R.
fastigiatum. A few particulars respecting the
best of those which have flowered may prove of
interest to readers.
Rhododendron ambiguum. — A bushy plant
with oboA'ate, dark green leaves. The yellow
flowers appear during April in small, terminal
trusses. This species has, unfortunately, been
put into commerce as R. concinnum, a species
with purple flowers.
R. Augustinii. — This is a most beautiful
species, with evergreen oblong-lanceolate leaves
It is in the way of the beautiful R. yunnanense,
Init flowers rather early. The French missionaries
sent seeds of this species to M. Maurice de Vilmorin.
R. concinnum, the true purple-flowered species,
gives promise of being a useful evergreen, and
as it flowers during M;ky, the blooms develop
under much more favourable conditions. The
flowers are li inches to 2 inches across, and prettily
spotted with reddish purple.
R. fastigiatum is a dainty little alpine species
reaching a foot or rather more in height. The small,
evergreen leaves are half an inch long ; flowers
lavender purple. It is allied to R. intricatum, but
flowers nearly a month later, and has protruding
stamens. This was, I believe, the first of Mr.
G. Forrest's Rhododendrons to
flower in this country, which it did
in 1912, eighteen months from the
time of sowing the seeds. A. O.
{To be continued.)
A
FLOWERING SPRAY OF
RHODODENDRON CHARTOPHYLLUM, A NEW
CHINESE SPECIES.
and mauve, lavender or white flowers. The
bushy plants are very free flowering. The seed-
lings exhibit considerable variation in the
colour and size of the flowers, the best only of
which must be selected for propagation. It
is evidently fairly common in China, having been
collected by Dr. Henry, Mr. E. H. Wilson and
the French missionaries.
R. adenopodum is an April-flowering species,
with pale rose-coloured flowers 2\ inches to 3 inches
in diameter, first introduced to France by Abbe
Farges and later by Mr. Wilson.
R. chartophyllum is an evergreen bushy
species with white to lavender spotted flowers.
ROSE-GROWING IN
TOWN GARDENS.
THE TREATMENT OF
MILDEW.
LL who have attempted to
grow Roses in confined
areas are familiar with
the appearance of mil-
dew, and most people
are aware that it is
caused by a minute fungus which
spreads over the surface of the leaves
and sends its roots into the cells,
extracting the sap and causing the
leaf to wither. It is important to
realise that this fungus becomes
visible only when it is bearing
countless spores and is thus in a fair
way to infect the whole Rose gar-
den, as the wind will quickly dis-
tribute these spores among the rest
of the plants. It is therefore only
by taking preventive measures
before the disease has actually
appeared that we can hope to
combat it eflectually.
In the " Rose Annual " for 1914
the best methods for dealing with
mildew are discussed in a series of
interesting papers contributed by
eminent rosarians, and the subject is
one of particular interest to to%vn
gardeners. The advice of all tends
in the same direction. Spra^ early
and often is the rule, and, as Mr.
M. A. Bailey points out, it is im-
portant to use a good syringe or
machine capable of throwing the
finest possible spray, and care must be taken that
both sides of the leaves are thoroughly covered. This
gentleman recommends liver of sulphur for the wash
at a strength of one ounce in five gallons of water
on the opening leaves, and subsequently one
ounce in four gallons as the foliage hardens. With
me this solution by itself does not seem to adhere
to the leaves properly. It is apt to run into large
drops, and I have found it better to mix a moderate
' amount of soft soap with it, which will give it the
I desired effect. Dr. Hamilton draws a close analogy
I between the chief causes of infection of the human
I body by disease and of Roses by mildew. From
I his deductions we learn that a wound on the surface
June 13, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
305
of leaf or stem forms a point of danger, that
weakly or overcrowded plants are especially subject
to disease, and that over-watering the roots by
lowering the vitality of a plant enables the mildew
to obtain a firmer hold. We are counselled to
keep the plants as clean as possible, not to over-
crowd them, to fork over the surface of the beds
frequently and to avoid wounds or abrasions. As
regards the latter, Dr. Hamilton suggests that the
plants should not be fingered, advice which is difficult
to follow where green fly is a real trouble and time
is limited ; but when these insects are removed by
hand it is certainly imperative to do it carefully,
so that the surface of the leaf is not broken.
The Rev. F. Page-Roberts has found Jeyes'
Horticultural Wash, Calvert's Carbolic Soap and
Berger's Lime-Sulphur Solution all effective, as
well as dark-coloured flowers of sulphur blown
over the plants while the dew is on them, specially
made bellows being used for this purpose. -
Dr. A. R. Waddell created considerable interest
last year by recommending the spraying of the
plants with a solution of formaldehyde in the
proportion of one teaspoonful to a gallon of
water. He again advocates this strongly in his
present paper, and gives interesting details of the
results obtained by this treatment. It would
appear, however, that the remedy is apt to be
dangerous, for Mr. Page-Roberts contends that
it is liable to burn the young growth, while Mr.
Darlington has found it ineffective in treating
mildew on Roses under glass.
One fact emerges from the discussion. As
Dr. Hamilton points out, there are many remedies
but there is no cure. Spores are ever present,
awaiting favourable conditions in which to
germinate, and only regular spraying will prevent
the appearance of mildew. Another point made
by the same writer is the importance of selecting
hardy varieties. Very few Roses are actually
immune from attack, and anyone wishing to grow
a representative collection will hardly care to limit
his choice to these ; but if a particular variety
has been badly infested, the wisest course is to
get rid of it and replace it with plants of another
kind. P. L. Goddard.
The Small Seedlings.— What is lost in the
discarding of the small seedling plants no one
ever knows, yet they are worthy of our closest
attention. Frequently — I had almost said in-
variably— the small seedling plant, the slow
grower at the start, is often of superior quality,
and should be catered for accordingly. Yet too
often these are discarded by the careless or thought-
less worker at the time of pricking off because
they are less easy to handle. I once caught
red-handed an assistant, who for days had been
trusted with the pricking off of a fine strain of
tuberous Begonias, throwing under the potting-
bench a whole host of the smaller seedlings, the
stronger growers, the second and third rate flowers,
probably coming readier to his hand. A cursory
examination of his past work revealed the fact
that there were no very small seedlings pricked
off ; hence one could only guess at the loss.
Naturally, the pricking off of the smallest seedlings
constitutes the more tedious part of the work ;
but good things were ever wrapped up in small
parcels, and it is in these tinier specks of vegetable
life that the good things are usually found.
The Seed-Bed. — At this season of the year,
seeing that the object of sowing now is to obtain
large plants for flowering a year hence, the seed-
bed should be formed in the open and in a partially
shaded position. The plot of ground should be
c'ean, well tilled, finely broken up and raked down
as evenly as possible. Where light soils obtain,
this will prove quite easy. Where the soil is heavy
or of a more lumpy as well as stony nature, greater
preparation will be required. In such a case
a fine surface may be formed by raking off the
stones, by the addition of finely sifted soil or even
a little Cocoanut fibre refuse. By the aid of a few
boards and a spare frame-light a bed can be so
formed that birds and other animal life can be kept
at bay. A thinly shaded frame-light or one darkened
by mats, while performing the above-named func-
tion, conserves moisture, also hastens and ensures
a more uniform vegetation of the seeds. These are
important. Should the seeds be sown in a fixed
frame, see to it that the surface of the seed-bed is
quite flat and not at the same inclined angle as the
frame, which runs all the water to the lowest point.
Sowing the Seeds.— The only rational way
is that of sowing in drills, arranging these at
9 inches apart. By these means hoeing, thinning
and weeding are easily performed, whereas, on
the broadcast seed-sowing system, weeding is
less easy and hoeing impracticable. The best
way to form the drills is to provide an inch wide
board and press it into the soil half an inch or so
deep. In this way the drill and the straight line
are forthcoming by one and the same process.
For the covering, a little fine soil with Cocoanut
fibre will do quite well. Bach variety or kind
should be labelled as sown, and the whole gently
watered when the work is completed. Thin
sowing of the seeds is a point so often urged that
it might appear superfluous to repeat it. Yet
it is of the highest importance. The operator
should remember, too, that large seeds may be
safely buried an inch deep, while the smallest —
those approximating to dust-like particles — will
be better with little or no soil covering at all.
Even Polyanthus seed, neither notoriously small
and certainly not large, is best with little covering
up, and, like others, is quite content with the
shelter the interstices of the soil afford. Sub-
joined is a list of plants — by no means exhaustive —
that may be sown at the present time, with hints
as to soil and other matters which I hope may
prove helpful to the general reader.
RAISING HERBACEOUS
PERENNIALS FROM SEEDS.
IN every department of gardeniag there is
wisdom and a certain fascination in the
raising of plants from seeds, and that
these extend into the region of hardy
plant growing none will gainsay. The
wisdom lies in the obtaining of one's " pound
of flesh," so to speak. It may be one hundred
or five times that number of seeds for a shilling,
and if only a fourth part of the first-named number
vegetate and make good plants, the expenditure
might still be considered good and economical.
The fascinating side of the subject — it is full of
interest and moment to even the most advanced
horticulturists — is that one never quite knows
what is coming. We know, of course, that we
have purchased seeds of Aubrietia, Gaillardia,
Carnation or Delphinium, and committed them
to the earth in " sure and certain hope," though
we cannot even guess what their " resurrection *'
will be. In other words, while there will be the
usual array of ordinary seedlings, and some — the
weeds — that might be regarded as extraordinary,
there is also just the possibility — often the probabi-
hty — of some others being extraordinarily good.
Name.
Colour.
AchilU'ii alpina
Acoiiitiuu Wilsonii
Adonic annirrnsis -. . .;;
., vrnialis
Anchiisa italica Dropmore var
Opal
AuthLTlcum Liliastnmi. juajor
Aquilegia chry.santha
., CEerulca hybrids
., Skinneri ,
Aster Amellus in variety
Campanula carpatica.
,, ,, alba
, , Rlvcrslea
,, persicifolia in variety ....
Van Houttei '.
Centauroa niontana rubra
Chelone barjData vars
Delphinium (good strain)
Eryngium amethystinum
Gaillardia in variety
Galcga officinalis alba
,, .,, His Majesty
Geum coccineum plenum
Heucheras in variety.
Incarvillea Delavayi
Kniphofias of sorts
Lathyrus latifolius
,, ,, alba
The Pearl
Liatris graminifolia dubia
Lychnis chalcedonica
Lupinus of sorts
Papavcr orientale in variety
,, nudicaule in three colours ..
Pyrethrum, single vars
Primula japonica
,, ,, alba
,, pulverulenta
,, denticulata in variety
Scabiosa caucasica
,, ,, alba
Statice latifolia
Thalictrum aquilegifolium
., ,, album. . . .
,, ,, purpureum
TroUius, any varieties
Verbascums of sorts
Violas of sorts
Zauschneria californica
White
Deep bluo
Yellow
&c.
Rich blue
Cambridge blue
White
Yellow
Scarlet, yellow, cream.
Scarlet .
Violet.
Blue.
White
Deep blue
Blue and while . .
Light blue
Red
Scarlet
Violet and blue . .
Blue
Crimson and gold.
White
Blue and white. . .
Scarlet
Scarlet and pink .
Rose magenta . . .
Scarlet, &c
Rose
White
Rosy purple
Scarlet
Blue, rose, white . . .
Crimson to orange .
Orange, scarlet, &c.
Various
Crimson
Whitish
Crimson
White and lavender.
Mauve blue
White
Blue
Creamy ,
White
Purplish
Yellow and orange . .
Various
Scarlet .
Soil.
Ordinary
Sandy loam . . .
Ordinary
Sandy loam . . .
Loam
Ordinary
Light loam
Ordinary
Cool loam
Sandy loam . . .
Ordinary
Sandy loam . . .
Rich loam
Ordinary
Light loam
Ordinary
Light loam
Rich loam
Deep loam ....
Ordinary
Deep loam ....
Rich soil
Ordinary
Light soils
Rich light soils ,
Rich moist soils
Rich light soils
Light soils
Good loam
Moist loam
Light soils . . . .
Rich soils . . . .
Light soil . . . .
Time of Flowering. ■" -^
July 2
September, OctobiT . . 5 — 6
March 1
March, April 1
June, July 4 — 6
, 4—6
May, June 2
June, July 3 — 4
July, August 2—3
, 2
August, September. . . 2
\] !' ...2.
• •-1
June, July 2i
July, August 2^
June, July 2
July — September .... 4
June, July 4—6
July, August 3
S
4
4
June 2
June, August 2^
June 3
August. — October .... 3 — 6
July — September 6 — 8
6—8
6—8
August 5 — 6
July, Aujiust 3
June, July 3 — 4
2—4
„ U
June n
May, June 2
2
June, July 2 — 4
April, May 14
July, August 3
3
Aufnist, September... 2
June, July 2i
, 2*
, 2|
June 2|
Summer 2 — 6
Spring and summer . . i
Autumn 1
E. H. Jenkins.
306
THE GARDEN.
[June 13, 1914.
SWEET PEA NOTES.
was given m
Here are Sweet Peas nn tip-toe for a flirrtit
With %\ings of gentle flush o'er delicate white.
And taper fingers catrhing at all thincs.
To bind them all about with tiny wings.
WITH joy we proclaim the arrival
of the Queen of Annuals. As
anticipated, the Chelsea Show
produced some notable exhibits
of Sweet Peas, of which a
detailed account
the Special Chelsea Show Number
of The Garden. The brilliant
sunny weather and the quality
of the blossoms made it difficult
to remember that it was not the
Holland House Show. Such fine
d splays of exquisite flowers
should give a fiUip to the culture
of Sweet Peas under glass, and
every Sweet Pea lover possessing
a light, airy house will find they
amply repay all the care bestowed
upon them.
Sweet Peas Under Glass.—
Continue to give as much air as
possible, and where a picking of
flowers has been made, the plants
will benefit by applications of
liquid manure. As previously
mentioned, start with weak soot-
water, and, personally, I think
this should form the principal
liquid used, as it cannot do anv
harm. A plan 1 have found
most beneficial is to give a good
top-dressing (a fair sprinkling) of
Dobbie's Sweet Pea Manure or
Ichthemic Guano or Clay's Fer-
tilizer, and then a mulching with
spent Hops, watering with clear
water, with occasional doses of
weak soot-water. It is essential
that the plants are not allowed
to become dry, and the mulching
materially prevents this, the Hops
being clean and less imsightly
than anything else. Whether the
fertiliser be used or not, the
mulching is absolutely necessary.
If liquid manure be relied upon,
I recommend that a watering of
soot-water be followed after four
or five days by an application of
superphosphate at the rate of 20z.
to three gallons of water. The
next watering of alternate clean
and soot water might be followed
by one of liquid manure made
from cow - manure or farmyard
manure, and should be well
diluted. It is well to err on
the side of over-dilution rather
than risk the loss of plants
through an extra strong mixture. " A little
and often " is an absolutely satisfactory cul-
tural maxim when giving liquid food. An
occasional watering with phosphate of potash (half
an ounce to a gallon of water) together with the
foregoing will keep the plants in good condition
for many weeks.
Disbudding.— All the side shoots must be
kept rubbed out and no seed-pods allowed to form,
and it is well to cut the blooms as soon as they
are fully out and commencing to show the seed-
pods. By this means the strength of the plant
is not wasted, and the succession of flowers is
assured.
Outdoor Culture. — The weather conditions
have been most uncongenial, and many growers
are complaining of stunted growths and dis-
appointed hopes. The stunted growths and the
yellowing of the leaves are due to the very dry
weather and bitterly cold nights we have recently
experienced. Given moister conditions, they will
quickly recover and make headway. Sandy,
All refractory shoots must be tied in, and where
exhibition blooms are required, a thinning out may
be necessary.
Thin Growths. — Vigorous growths in the
majority of cases at present are conspicuous
by their absence, and I have noticed that several
growers have resorted to an early use of chemicals.
This is really folly. In many instances the plants
were impoverished through a prolonged stay
in pots or boxes, and the drought has further
checked them. The chemical is lying unused,
and is therefore thus far wasted. A thorough
watering, followed by frequent
syringings, will be of more
benefit than any manure. As I
have so frequently stated, the
chemical manures are most use-
ful as an extra stimulant when
the plants are in active growth,
and I prefer to see the haulm
strong and vigorous before an
application of any concentrated
fertiliser be made. If the drought
continues, give frequent water-
ings, and try to create a sturdy
growth by picking off all flower-
buds that are prematurely
forming.
Question of Scent. — I have
read with considerable interest
the letters that have recently
appeared in the " Correspon-
dence " columns of The Garden
bemoaning the loss of scent. Is
it really so ? Are we not under
a delusion when we say a
certain Sweet Pea has more
scent than another ? That some
varieties are more fragrant than
others we all agree, but an
interesting experiment convinced
me that our sense of smell is
not to be depended upon
entirely, any more than the sense
of feeling. Probably most readers
know that if one hand be placed
in very hot water and the other
in ice cold water, then both
plunged together into lukewarm
water, that one hand will
declare the water hot and the
other cold. A similar experiment
was tried on a grower who most
vehemently affirmed that the
Spencer type lacked fragrance.
He was blindfolded and a spray
of Sunproof Crimson was given
him. He said it was most
fragrant. It was taken away
and given him again, and this
time he affirmed it had no per-
fume. Again and again the
same flower was substituted for
others, and after the first time
it was declared to be lacking in
porous soils have specially shown dire results scent. Dorothy Eckford and Lady G. Hamilton
THE MOUNTAIN CLEMATIS, C. MONTANA, OVKR A COTTAGE DOOR
WAY IN SURREY.
of the drought, and watering is absolutely essential.
Where mulchinf with short, well-decayed manure
or lawn mowings has been applied, the loss of
moisture has not been so pronounced, and a
constant use of the hoe in many instances
has done much to mitigate the evils of the
drought.
Tying. — Where growth is fairly rampant and
vigorous, an almost daily survey is necessary.
were also similarly tested, and great was the surprise
of the person, when his eyes were unbound, at
the opinions he had given. Personally, I have
tested the power of judging scent in other flowers
by the same experiment, and my conclusion is
that the sense of smell is not sufficiently reliable
to notice accurately the difference in degrees of
fragrance. It is quite possible for many varieties
to have been raised from parent flowers with little
June 13, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
307
fragrance, as many raisers have striven for colour
and form only, and it would be a great loss if the
new Sweet Peas lacked the well-known and
approved fragrance ; but, on the other hand,
it is unfair and unwise to condemn all Spencer
Sweet Peas as odourless. S. M. Crow.
THE MOUNTAIN CLEMATIS.
Considering the ease with which Clematis montana
will grow in almost any part of the country, one
might almost imagine it to be a native of Britain,
instead of which it was introduced from Nepaul in
1831. Our illustration shows this Clematis effec-
tively growing over a cottage porchway in the
village of Clandon in Surrey, in which neighbour-
hood Clematis montana may be seen growing over
balconies, walls, and even bams, flowering with
great freedom. It is also to be seen
rambling at will over Pine trees,
the light star-like flowers being
shown up to great advantage against
the dark background of coniferous
trees. It is indeed a beautiful
subject and of very easy culture.
Clematis montana does best in a
hot sunny position, a south wall
for preference, although it is often
recommended for a north wall. If
given a sunny position the wood
is well ripened and the chance of
a fine display of flowers the following
year is greatly enhanced. pruning
ought to be done soon after flower-
ing, when the weak growth should
be cut clean away. This beautiful
climber is not in the least fastidious
about soil, but it appreciates one of
a light nature and a plentiful addi-
tion of lime.
flowers regularly), Symphyandra pendula, Statice
minuta, Silene ElizabetliEe, Saxifraga pyramidalis,
S. longifolia, S. Salomonii, S. lantoscana lingulata,
S. burseriana Gloria, Rosmarinus prostrata.
Plumbago Larpentae, Onosma alba rosea, Oinothera
brachycarpa, (E. ovata, (E. W. Cuthbertson,
(E. Youngii, Mazus repens, Lithospermum Froe-
bellii, L. prostratum, L. Heavenly Blue, L. ros-
marinifolium, L. Zollinsieri, Hieracium villosum,
Globularia nana, Dianthus alpinus, D. neglectus,
D. cassius, D. arvemense, Cytisus Ardoinei,
Corydalis Wilsonii, Convolvulus Cneorum, C.
althajoides, C. mauritanicus. Campanula Stevenii
nana, C. turbinata, C. garganica hirsuta and
C. Miss Willmott, besides all the larger kinds of
wall plants, including Aubrietia H. Marshall,
A. Lloyd Edwards, A. Fire King, A. Dr. Mules,
A. Lavender, Helianthemum Fireball, H. venustum,
H Peauty and H. Rhodanthe carneum.
TULIP AFTERMATH.
TULIPA SPRENGERI is in full bloom,
which is only another way of saying
that the curtain has been rung down
and that the end of Tulip-time has
come. This seems to be a convenient
season to write about one or two
matters of interest in connection with this flower.
Rise in Prices. — It will be news to many to
be told that during the month of May there has
been a miniature mania in Holland over late
Tulips, more especially the deep rich purple and
the brownish yellow shades. The Gladiolus gamble
of last year seems to have whetted the Dutchmen's
appetite for speculative dealings, and now, when
it is believed, and I may say I think with good
reason (see an article by Mrs. Francis King in
A WALL GARDEN IN
DEVON.
and
IN case any of your readers are
interested in wall gardening,
I am sending you a photo-
graph of a dry wall we have
made here. It forms the
retaining waU to the lawn,
180 feet long and faces
due south. The first half of it
was built in the autumn of igii,
and the second half, which is shown in
the photograph, in September, 1912. The stone
is from a local quarry, and was used exactly
as it was quarried. The soil used for filling at
the back was good garden loam, with bone-meal
mixed with it. Most of the plants were put in
the wall when it was being made, but many small
ones have since been added. From the first the
plants have all thriven in a remarkable way,
and we have no trouble in the wall during wet
winters with any of the Dianthi, Asperula sub-
erosa, Acantholimon venustum, Androsace lanugi-
nosa, A. pyrenaica, Potentilla nitida and Wahlen-
bergia Pumilio.
Among the many other things doing well may
be mentioned Aquilegia cajrulea, A. Stuartii,
A. glandulosa. Anemone sylvestris grandiflora.
Iris pumila atrocaerulea, I. azurea, I. caenilea,
1. lutea, I. cristata, Zauschneria califomica (which
AN INTERESTING WALL GARDEN IN DEVONSHIRE.
At the foot of the wall are many kinds
of bulbs, including Tulip species, Habranthus
pratensis, Tritonia crocata, Sparaxis Tollens,
S. Fire King, S. Constance, S. sulphurea, S.
Judith and Ixia Fire King. Watsonia Ardemei
(which flowers splendidly and has not been
lifted or covered for three years). Iris juncea,
I. filifolia. Anemone nemerosa Blue Bonnet and
A. AUenii do well in the partial shade of other
plants.
This short list does not give one quarter of
the plants growing in the wall, but it is
enough to show that many of the plants that
are doubtful in this erratic climate are very
happy in a dry wall, where their roots are always
cool and in perfect drainage, and their heads in
every bit of sun that we may be lucky enough
to get. E. A. Froude.
CoUapil Creek, Kingsbridge, South Devon.
the Garden Magazine ti New York for May, 1914,
an extract from which is given at the end of this
aitic'e), that America is waking up to the immense
possibilities of Tulips, they are at it again. Old
Haarlem must rub her eyes when she hears the
doings of the Monday meetings in the Bulb Market,
and wonder if the famous times of 1635 and 1636
and 1637 are about to be repeated. I am afraid
we shall feel the result in increased prices in many
of the very best varieties. The most startling
rise is in that beautiful blue purple, The Bishop.
Mr. Bourne's price in 1913 was 5s. per dozen ;
in his preliminary list for 1914, which I picked
up at Chelsea, it is put down at 30s. Louis XIV.,
Viking, Jubilee, Frans Hals and such as Dom
Pedro, Ronald Gunn, Mrs. Kerrell and Norham
Beauty have all appreciated in value. Nor have
Gondvink, Clio, Golden Bronze, Quaintness,
Goldmine or Coridion (all brownish yellows) fallen.
308
THE GARDEN.
[June 13, 1914.
There is one compensation, however. The flood
gates that held back Clara Butt have at last been
opened, and this once expensive gem is now a
possibility for the man of moderate means.
Tulip Pluriflores. — Messrs. James Carter and Co.
distributed the only one of this new French race
which is in commerce last autunm — Mons. S. Mottet.
I am wondering what their customers thought of it.
I have had a fine bed in my own garden from liomc-
e.rown bulbs. There was plenty of branching, four
and five flowers on a stem being common, with
two as a minimum and seven as a maximum.
Then, the petals are adiiesive. As the only hundred
year old parishioner that I have ever had said to
me in his one hundred and first year: " I aint
given to dying," so the flowers of Mons.
S. Mottet say : " We aint given to fall-
ing." LasI, they certainly do. This
gives them ample time to appear
in a new dress, for they are none of
your lightning change artists, but
require a considerable time to put off
their white and don their pretty
rose costume. These branching Tulips
must be " well done to," or they will
not branch. If in any year they do not
do so, then, immediately this failing is
seen, feed them. Again, only the large-
sized bulbs will branch. These are the
two secrets of success, without which
failure is certain. . One must have a
nursery bed in which to grow them on
and feed them. With this adjunct all
difficulties vanish. They are worth it ;
a large bed is a pleasing sight and a
very uncommon one.
Early Flowering Novelties in Pots.
I believe I have found the very best
pure white in commerce, if not in exist-
ence— White Beauty. It is a sport from
that grand variety, Pink Beauty. To
show how. much alike the two are in
habit and shape of flower, my gardener,
without knowing its true history,
"spotted" its origin. Those who
know Pink Beauty will need no further
recommendation beyond my saying " It
is a chip of the old block." Another
superb novelty is the glorious reddish
orange De Wet. I am told it is a sport
from that best of all Tulips, Prince of
Austria. In this case, too, the chip is
fully as good as the old block. I have
grown De Wet in pots and also in the
open, and in both circumstances it has
proved itself highly satisfactory. I have
to thank my good friend Mrs. Polman
Mooy of Haarlem for many things, for reGEL
making me Govda syrup-wafers for one
thing, but for none more than for being
the unintentional reintroducer of De Wet. She took
her husband and myself to a Woman's Work
Exhibition at Amsterdam last year, and there,
decorating a prettily furnished sitting-room,
were vases galore, of this, both to the " Heer "
and myself, unknown flower, It looks so different
to what it did at the Jubilee Exhibition that,
although we had stood together before it there,
neither of us recognised it now. The fact is, it
changes with age. Whereas in early life the orange
tone predominates, in later life it is the red.
Visitors, one and all, to my garden have asked :
" Where can I get it ? " I really do not know who
lists it, but as I am told the wholesale vendors,
Messrs. M. van Waveren and Sons of Hillegom, are
sold out for this season, somebody must. It is the
most notable " early flowering" introduction of re-
cent years. A third novelty, which is also a sport,
coming as it does from Cottage Maid, is Jeanette.
It is unlike any other early Tulip in colour, being a
sort of rich cerise crimson, edged deep pink. It is
a long flower and the edges of the petals are a little
laciniated. I am in two minds about it. I like
its colour very much, but somehow there is some-
thing about its general look that I do not care for ;
hut I am going to try it again ; it is such a decided
novelty. It has one recommendation — it is quite
cheap compared with De Wet — hence I advise a trial.
Extract from " Notes Among the Flowers of
May," by Mrs. Francis King : " Let me suggest
REGELIO-CYCLUS IRISES.
T
HERE is often a certain negative
similarity between the result of going
to an auction sale of the contents
of some well-known house and a
large flower show such as Chelsea,
or even the usual fortnightly shows
of the Royal Horticultural Society. In the first
case we find ourselves landed with what we do
not want, and in the second with what we cannot
grow. Surely few can say, " It has never been
so with me." Maybe the Oncocyclus and Regelia
Irises have been the snare. For example, susiana,
one of the best kno\\Ti, is not infre-
quently exliibited in London. It always
has a certain strange fascination forme,
but I seem to have a stronger will at
shows than I do at sales, and so far
neither susiana, nor Gatesii, nor Lortetii,
nor Korolkowii has induced me to
buy. I am told, however, that there
is a sort of halfway house between the
easy " Gennans " and the impossible
" Cushions," namely, a certain weirdly
named strain raised by the great
hybridising firm of C. G. van Tubergen
of Haarlem and named Regelio-cyclus
Iris. These (and the statement has the
imprimatur of Dykes — " Iris," in " Pre-
sent-day Gardening," page 28) are at
least possibles if treated as advised by
the aforesaid firm. I believe, to do them
well, cold-frame culture, with the plants
in the soil, is by far the best way to
manage them. The difficulty is to pre-
vent autumn growth, and to keep any
that may come from the vicissitudes of
winter and earl}' spring. I saw the
beautiful series of hybrids at the Royal
Horticultural Society's show on May 5,
and since then I have had a boxful of
their charming refined flowers sent from
Haarlem. They had been gathered in
the bud, then stretched and tied to a
rack of comfort, so that they reached
me just opening, and a few hours in
water gave me the pleasure of seeing for
the first time in my own house living
specimens of some of the best of this
fairly amenable rare. I should say that
Mr. Thomas Hoog (nephew of the
respected head of the firm, Mr. C. G.
van Tubergen, jim.) had told me that if
I followed his directions, he did not see
why I should not succeed. That box did
it. I am going to make the attempt to
grow a few of them next season, and I
have picked out three from those
to those who do not yet know the newer Darwins, 1 sent which are quite distinct from one another
Cottage Tulips, Breeders and Rembrandts an [ and which are (each one) very beautiful,
investment in a few bulbs next fall, if only a half Hecate (a study in brown and grey), Mars (a
[O-CYCLUS IRIS MARS. THIS IS ONE Ol' A BEAUTIFUL
NEW RACE DESCRIBED ON THIS PAGE.
dozen of each of some of the finer varieties, and see
each for himself the wonders of these flowers.
In the first three classes, if I were to choose four
out of each as introductory lists, they should be
these : Cottage or May-flowering Tulips — Retro-
blue-blooded beauty) and Psyche (a sort of combi-
nation of the two, with bluish standards and
brownish falls) are the ones I hope to start with,
and the first two are among the cheaper
ones. A fourth, which is distinct, being of
fle.xa superba. Moonlight, The Fawn, Inglescombe a sort of pale wine red colour, is Hera. I hope
Pink. Darwins — Clara Butt, Rev. H. Ewbank, ' to include this too ; and to make up half a dozen
Gudin and Euphrosyne. Breeders — Coridion, I am making a plunge from the descriptions in
Golden Bronze and Louis XIV. . . . Would the catalogue, and am going for Irene, " a very
that I might have named Zomerschoon in the chaste flower of a silvery white with chocolate
Cottage group — Zomerschoon, that too costly Tulip brown veins," and Medusa, "deep violet, veined
of unforgettable beauty." J. J. ' on a violet blue ground." Joseph Jacob.
June 13, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
309
GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.
CUCUMBERS AND TOMATOES IN FRAMES : A USE FOR THE COLD FRAME IN THE SUMMER.
WHILE during winter and spring
the cold frames are taxed to
the utmost of their holding
capacity, in the summer as
a rule they are very little used.
Among the numerous purposes
for which the cold frame is adapted in the summer
is the cultivation of Cucumbers and Tomatoes,
These are welcome in most houses, and, as with
most other home-grown produce, are doubly so
wlien freshly cut from one's own garden.
The Frame Cucumber. — Though comparatively
few amateur gardeners attempt the cultivation
of Cucumber plants, they are really very easy to
grow. To provide heat in the frame during
the early stages of the growth of the plants, a hot-
bed of manure and leaves should be made up.
For a two-light frame not less than two loads,
of fresh straw manure and one load of leaves will
be required. Get this together a fortnight in
advance, mix it up thoroughly several times,
watering if dry. Make up the bed r8 inches
wider and longer than the frame, and about two
feet deep. Tread firmly, stand the frame in
position on the bed, and place in the middle of
each light a mound of nice fibrous loamy soil.
As fermentation of the manure proceeds, there will
be a certain amount of steam in the frame, which
must be allowed to escape by leaving a crack
for ventilation. In from a week to ten days the
frame will be ready for the Cucumber plants.
It is as well to raise these in the greenhouse, sowing
the seeds in pots about a month before it is pro-
posed to plant them in the frame. This may be
done at any convenient time from April to the end
of June. Sow two seeds in a 3j-inch pot. If
TOMATOES PLANTED IN A COLD FRAME, WITH YOUNG LETTUCES
GROWING UNDERNEATH.
both germinate, pull
out the weaker
one. When grow-
ing freely, move
into 6-inch pots, so
that good, sturdy
plants will be avail-
able when the
frame is ready.
Would-be growers
of Cucumbers who
have no greenhouse
should plant the
seeds straight in
the soil of the
frame. The plants
will grow quite as
well, the only differ-
ence being that they
will be a month
later. Two plants
are sufficient in each
light of an ordinary
frame. Three are
shown in the illus-
tration, one e.xtra
being put in in
case of loss. Should all thrive well, it is far easier
to pull one out than to put another in. Cucumber
plants revel in a moist heat. In the morning and
afternoon syringe with tepid water, unless a cold,
wet period is experienced, when once a day will
be ample. This will keep the soil fairly moist,
but probably the roots will require an additional
watering about once a week. Shade the plants
from hot sun, damping down, syringing and closing
up about the middle
of the afternoon
to shut in some of
the sun-heat. As
soon as the young
plants have made
four or five leaves,
take out the growing
tips to encourage
branching shoots.
Spread these evenly
over the ground,
stopping again at
intervals as growth
proceeds. From
time to time it will
be necessary to re-
move some of the
older leaves, and
probably shoots
also, as crowded
plants are by no
means the most
fruitful, but rather
the opposite. Re-
garding good sorts
to grow in a frame,
choice may be made
from Reliance (the
one illustrated,
which fruits very
early). Telegraph,
CUCUMBERS IN A COLD FRAME. IF ALL GROW WELL ONE WILL
BE REMOVED LATER.
Rochford's Market, and Cluster (a free-fruiting
small variety).
Tomatoes. — During favourable summers
Tomatoes produce a good crop of fruits outside,
particularly when planted against a sunny south
wall or fence. To supplement these a few plants
should be cultivated in frames, as illustrated.
Grown under glass in this way, the fruits ripen a
month earlier, and as a rule the crop is heavier
and of better quality. This is especially pro-
nounced when there is not an excessive amount
of warm, sunny weather during July and August
to help the outdoor plants. A two-light frame
will take six plants, three in each light. Plant
these at the bottom i foot to 15 inches apart,
with the growths leaning to the top of the frame.
If the slope of the frame is not fairly steep, it should
be raised a foot at the back by placing bricks
under the woodwork on the ground. Air
admitted here will do no harm ; in fact, if
anything it will be beneficial. Strain stout
string or wire on hooks from the top to the
bottom of the frame, one strand for each
plant, as illustrated. Restrict each plant to a
single stem, removing all side shoots, and
regularly tie the leader to the string, or the top
will be constantly touching the glass. Grow the
plants entirely without shading the lights. Nothing
is more liable to prevent the free setting of the
flowers than heavy shading. Mulch the plants
when growth is proceeding satisfactorily, and attend
regularly to watering. Useful sorts to cultivate
in frames are Early Market, Holmes' Supreme,
Sunrise and Duke of York.
In the illustration it will be noticed that there
are also Lettuces growing in the frame with the
Tomatoes. A crop such as this can be very
well grown in the frame while the Tomatoes
are small, but they must, of course, be rembved.-i:?
before the latter get so large as to obscure the'
light.
310
THE GARDEN.
[June 13, 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
Strawberries. — Now that strawberry forcing
is over, it is necessary to make preparation for next
season's crop, and, assuming that a plantation
was made in the autumn with a view to supplymg
earlv runners, there should be no difficulty now
in finding sufficient for the early batch of plants,
and these ought to be inserted in small, clean pots
with as little delay as possible. Good rich 'oain
should be used, and the pots may be half plunged
in the soil between the rows of plants in order
to reduce the need of frequent watering.
Melons in Frames.— These should now be
making rapid progress and ought to be kept well
thinned. Remove worthless growth from plants
which are setting their fruits, and attend to the
pollination of these every morning as soon as
flowers and foliage are dry. As soon as a full
crop has been secured, the shoots may be stopped
at the first or second joiat beyond the fruit, accord-
ing to the space available, and a good soaking
of clear water given. When the fruits are swelling
freely, they may be placed on small inverted pots
in order to. expose them to the light, and also
as a protection from insects. Syriage the plants
freely on fine mornings, but avoid damping the
foliage on dull days. A stagnant atmosphere
must always be avoided. As the season advances
and fruits are swelling freely, the plants should
be assisted by liquid manure in some form, which
must be kept quite clear of the stems. Further
plantations ought to be made and seeds sown for
succession.
Plants Under Glass.
Zonal Pelargoniums. — Plants which are intended
for flowering in autumn and winter should now be
ready for potting into 6-inch pots. Place them
in a cool pit quite near the glass, and when they
have become established they must be freely
ventilated, and afterwards removed to the open
and placed on a bed of ashes. Pinch the strongest
shoots as it becomes necessary to keep the plants
in shape. The most suitable soil for this purpose
is good rich loam with a sprinkling of old lime
rubble. A few crushed bones may be placed
over the crocks with advantage.
Heliotrope. — ^This is a useful plant for the
conservatory during the autumn, and for this
purpose young plants which were rooted in the
autumn or spring may be potted and grown on
in a cool, well-ventilated pit. Pinch the strongest
shoots to keep the plants in shape. The soil
may consist of two-thirds turfy loam and one-
third leaf-soil, which should be made moderately
firm.
Tuberous Begonias. — These plants will now
be making rapid progress in their flowering pots,
and must be carefully staked in order to secure
the maximum amoimt of light among the shoots.
Seedling plants in pots should be potted on as
soon as ready, so that the best may be selected
for pot culture next season.
Chrysanthemums. — The final potting should
be accomplished with as little delay as possible.
Stand the plants in some open, quarter in order
to prevent them from becoming drawn. As soon
as the pots are well filled with roots, some stimulant
should be applied several times weekly.
Fuchsias for autumn flowering may be grown
in any cool structure. Water freely with liquid
manure as soon as the plants are established and
pinch side shoots as it becomes necessary to keep
them in shape.
The Flower Garden.
Summer-Flowering Chrysanthemums. — These
are growing freely, and should be carefully staked
before growth is too far advanced. Thin the
shoots to five or six on each plant, and stake
separately, allowing sufficient space between
them to admit plenty of light and air. Water
freely during dry weather, and hoe the soil between
the plants at frequent intervals.
^Summer Bedding. — To encourage free growth
among plants which have recently been bedded
out, the syringe should be used each evening
and the beds watered at frequent intervals. Stake
the plants as early as possible, and, as many of
them will require pegging down to the ground,
this should also be accomplished as soon as possible.
Verbenas, Petunias and Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums
are among the first to require attention.
Planting Dahlias. — There must be no delay
in planting and staking Dah'ias in the case of
spring-struck plants with single stems. A careful
watch should be kept for slugs, which will soon
destroy young plants. Every effort ought to be
made to complete the planting of all tender
subjects as quickly as possible, so that they may
not become stunted before they are put out.
The Kitchen Garden.
Mushrooms. — Beds may now be made up
behind a north wall or in a shed facing east for
the supply of Mushrooms during September and
October, Let the material be well prepared
and trodden tightly together to the depth of 2 feet,
in order to retain the heat as long as possible
after spawning, which should take place when
the temperature of the bed is as near 80° as possible.
After a few days, when the heat is inclined to
drop, a covering of long litter may be placed
over the surface to prevent evaporation.
Runner Beans. — A second sowing may be
made now in order to keep up a supply as far
into the autumn as possible. Stake the plants
as soon as sufficiently advanced, and give a liberal
supply of water during the summer months.
Lettuce. — Make frequent small sowings of
Lettuce seed, and transplant some of the seedlings
as soon as large enough. By this means a con-
tinual supply may be available through the summer.
A cool situation should be chosen for the next
few sowings, and if the soil is of a heavy nature,
so much the better. If dry weather prevails,
frequent waterings will be necessary. Small
sowings of Endive may also be made and treated
in the same way as Lettuce.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Cauliflowers. — Make another small sowing of
these to keep up a succession to those sown in
March, To many this might be thought to be
much too late, yet it is astonishing what useful
heads can be had from this sowing. As it is
necessary to keep up the supply, sow Early London,
Walcheren and a little seed of Autumn Giant. In
consequence of the extremely cold weather ex-
perienced in many places in May, a good many of
those planted earlier may have buttoned. Go
over the plot and make up the blanks from the
seed-bed.
Leeks. — The most forward plants will now be
ready for planting, and as these are gross feeders
and cannot very well be fed from the surface,
it is essential that the ground be well manured
before planting. Rake the ground quite fine and
make holes 9 inches apart and 15 inches bet%veen
the rows. Many growers cut off the tops of the
leaves before planting, averring that it greatly
strengthens the roots ; but for ordinary purposes
it seems to me to be immaterial whether they are
cut or not.
Cucumbers. — Now that most of the frames will
be empty, a few plants may be put in as advised some
weeks ago. After planting, keep the frames fairly
close for a time, and throw a mat over them
during the hottest part of the day. By all means
guard against cold winds and draughts, and supply
abundance of moisture during the earlier stages
of growth.
The Flower Garden.
Roses. — Among the various sections of Roses,
perhaps the present time will be the most interest-
ing and possibly the most anxious. The Tea-
scented varieties growing against walls will, in
many cases, have suffered rather severely from
the attacks by aphis during the unusually cold
spell in May. At that season the foliage is more
susceptible to injury than at any period of their
growth. When the foliage appears ciurled, there
is no doubt that the maggot has got a footing,
and hand picking will be out of the question.
Syringe the bushes with Quassia Extract or other
approved insecticide to prevent it spreading, and,
being against a wall, it is more than likely they
will require moisture at the roots. Among Rose's
of recent introduction, which, in the majority of
cases, are rather weak, it will be advisable to pmch
out the earliest flower-buds, which will have the
effect of throwing vigour into the plant,
Spring-Flowering Plants. — Those plants that
were used for spring bedding, such as single and
double Arabis, Polyanthuses, Aubrietias and Daisies,
must be attended to at once, as very frequently
they have to be moved to make room for the
summer occupants before they have completed
their growth. They should be divided and planted
in nursery lines to make stock for next season's
supply, and, should the weather be dry, an
occasional watering will be necessary. Such
plants as Myosotis and Alyssum saxatile are best
grown from seed, and may be sown now.
Herbaceous Plants. — These will now require
constant attention in the way of staking and tying,
and some of the most delicate sorts, such as
Ostrowskia, Scabiosa caucasica and many others
that are subject to attacks from slugs, should have
the soil stirred round them and be given a dusting
of soot. See that the stronger-growing sorts
are not allowed to encroach on the weaker-growing
plants ; each plant should stand out distinctly.
Plants Under Glass.
Stove and Greenhouse Climbers. — Most of
these are growing luxuriantly and must, to a certain
extent, be held in check. In thinning and tying
and otherwise regulating the long growths, regard
must be had to the particuJar plant in hand ;
weakly shoots should be removed and larger ones
looped up in the most natural manner possible.
Cuttings can be taken of Hibiscus. I find they
root readily, and if pinched and allowed to remain
in comparatively small pots, they soon show
flowers. These will be found to be extremely
effective arranged among Ferns.
Bouvardias. — The young plants that were
potted some weeks ago will now be ready for a
further shift into a size larger pot. Now that the
weather is getting warmer, they may be moved into
a frame, and for a time they should be slightly
shaded during the hottest part of the day. Give
them a slight spraying with the syringe twice daily,
and as they advance in growth they will be greatly
benefited by occasional waterings with weak
liquid manure. Any shoots getting away from the
others should be pinched to promote a compact
habit.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Apples and Pears. — Trees growing on walls
should now be gone over and have the shoots
stopped. This must be done carefully, as, if
all the shoots were pinched indiscriminately, the
result would be that the strongest would again
break into growth and produce a lot of small,
useless wood. These vigorous shoots should be
left somewhat longer than the weak ones, and can
be finally shortened back at the winter pruning.
Remove all badly placed and ill-shaped fruits,
and leave no more on the tree than it is capable of
bearing. I see caterpillars are becoming very
troublegeme, possibly owing to the recent cold
weather. Means should be taken to prevent them
spreading by vigorously syringing with Quassia
Extract or some other approved insecticide.
Fruits Under Glass.
Vines. — Young pot Vines for next year's fruiting
will now be growing rapidly and may be assisted
with liquid manure or a little of Thomson's Vine
Manure. They must be kept free from spider,
as any damage to the foliage from insects or other-
wise will most certainly have an injurious effect
on the proper ripening of the canes. The laterals
should be closely pinched, and the leader stopped
when the desired length has been attained.
Figs. — The second crop will now be showing
nicely on the earliest trees, and the fruit should
be thinned out judiciously. Pinch the young
growths as they advance, say, at the fifth leaf,
unless, of course, an extension is wanted. Those
growing in pots will require to be carefully attended
to, as, if allowed to become dry, they receive a
serious check,
John Highgate,
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopeloun Gardens, South Queenslerry, N.B.
June 13, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
311
NEW AND RARE PLANTS.
AWARDS OF MERIT.
Iris Iota. — An interesting and beautiful hybrid,
having for its parents the Califomian I. Purdyi
and I. tenax from North-Westem America. The
new-comer partakes more of the first-named
species, the creamy or whitish ground being
freely reticulated with lilac and rose. From
Mr. Rickarton Dykes, Godalming.
Iris Chrysographes. — This beautiful and grace-
ful kind was shown by Miss Willmott and Mr.
Dykes. It is probably allied to the I, sibirica
set, and has the same narrow grassy leafage.
The dominating colour tone is intense violet
and imperial purple, the long, ovate-acuminate
blade of the falls exceedingly rich
in colour,
Erigeron hybridus B. Ladhams.
The pot-grown plants were 2| feet
high, the predominating colour
tone of the flower-heads rosy pink,
quite a new shade in this family.
From Mr. Ladhams, Southampton.
Lupinus Primrose Dame. — A
charming variety, having deep
canary-coloured flowers in long
spikes. In general appearance it
is a glorified Tree Lupine, the
greatly extended raceme of flowers
suggesting the influence of L.
polyphyllus. Really, the flower-
spike is that of the latter, the
habit that of the Tree Lupine.
A valuable plant. From Messrs.
Barr and Sons, Covent Garden.
Papaver Lady Frederick Moore.
A very handsome Oriental Poppy.
The pink colour is very charming.
From Mr. Amos Perry, Enfield.
Clematis Sieboldii. — Of this
very old and beautiful species a
well-flowered example on balloon
trellis was shown by Miss Will-
mott, Warley Place. The petals
are rounded and white, which
contrasts well with the spreading
cluster of floral leaves at the
centre of the flower.
Verbascum Warley Rose. — A
5-feet-high specimen of this was
shown in a tub. It is invaluable
by reason of its colour, which is
of rose pink shade and quite new
in this fine race of plants. The
branching raceme is much more
graceful than the c'.ose spikes of
older varieties. Given freedom,
this must become a great garden plant. At present
it is unique. From Miss Willmott, Warley Place.
Deutzia discolor elegantissima. — A very beauti-
ful shrubby kind with a profusion of pink-
flowered trusses in axillary clusters on long, arching,
graceful branches. The starry flowers add a
charm to a delightful plant.
Ij. Ribes Brocklebankii. — Valuable for the uniform
greenish golden colour of its leaves, and likely
to be of service for grouping in conjunction with
others of more sombre tone. These came from
Elizabeth Lady Lawrence, Dorking (gardener,
Mr. W. Bain).
Mimulus Wargrave Fireflame. — A dwarf-
growing kind with large flowers of brownish
scarlet hue, very freely produced. The plant
is about eight inches high and very striking.
Shown by Messrs. John Waterer, Sons and Crisp,
Limited, Bagshot and Twyford.
Iris laevigata alba. — This is the white-flowered
form of the typical species, and a beautiful and
rare plant.
Iris sibirica Emperor. — As far removed by
its superiority from I. s, orientalis as that fine
variety is from the typical species, than which
we do not think we can better describe it. In
colour it is deeper and richer. A good plant in
every way.
Iris Kashmir White. — Best described as a
giant pallida form, with handsome white flowers
on 4-feet-high stems. The lateral branches are
unusually long, which gives the plant an import-
AWARDS TO STRAIN.
Lupines. — Hybrids of arboreus and polyphyllus,
embracing yellows, rose and yellow, violet, blue
and white, lavender and dark blue. From Messrs.
Barr and Sons.
Aquilegias. — A particularly high-class lot in
which scarlet and yellow, cream, white, pink
and other shades combined. From Mrs. Scott-
Elliott, Teviot Lodge, Hawick, N,B.
Antirrhinums. — A remarkable range of colours
in the three degrees of heights, viz., Tom Thumb,
Medium and Tail, was displayed, the flowers
and spikes being of exceptional size. For fuller
details see report of the show. From Messrs,
Dobbie and Co., Edinburgh,
All the foregoing were shown
before the floral committee of the
Royal Horticultural Society on
the 3rd inst,, when the awards
were made.
ANSWERS TO COR-
RESPONDENTS.
RIBES BROCKLEBANKII,
A NEW HARDY SHRUB WITH BEAUTIFUL
GOLDEN FOLIAGE.
ance of its own. These three widely distinct
and good garden Irises came from Messrs. R. W.
Wallace and Co., Colchester.
Carnation Mrs. Griffith Jones. — A superbly
formed flower of soft apricot colouring. A very
charming variety.
Carnation Mrs. Brotherstone. — A freckled
or fancy sort, in which the predominating shades
are purplish and crimson. The flower is very
large, of superb form and strongly Clove scented.
Carnation Robert Bruce. — Deep apricot,
with almost orange shading, which adds in-
tensity to an exceptionally rich bit of colour.
A very fine self. These three fine novelties
were shown by Mr. James Douglas, Great
Bookham, Surrey.
FLOWER GARDEN.
ANTIRRHINUMS DISEASED
(E. K. P.). — The Antirrhinums are
attacked by the fungus Septoria Antir-
rhini. This fungus is apparently spread-
ing over the coiintry, and we have had
several complaints lately of tlie damage
it has caused. Remove the diseased
portions as completely as possible, and
spray the remainder with potassium
sulphide at the rate of loz. to three
gallons of water.
" FIRE" IN TULIPS (TF. IF.).— The
Tulips are suffering from " fire," due to
the attack of the fungus Sclerotinia
parasitica. You will see that we have
given an account of the method of
dealing with this to several of our
correspondents lately in our columns,
and think it would be as well to destroy
the bulbs of Golden Crown and remove
the soil as completely as possible, so as
to avoid harbouring the resting bodies
of the fungus for another year, replac-
ing it with fresh soil.
TREATING A SLOPE (The Birches). —
The terraced arrangement would, wc
think, prove rather formal, and two
other ways remain if not incongruous
with the surroundings. These are level-
ling up the bank and constructing a
retaining wall at the front, specially
arranged to receive a fine vegetation,
which would also permit of bedding
plants on the fiat area above, or it may
be done down in grass. The other way
would be to construct a small rockery
on the slope. Either of these would add
permanent interest to the surroundings
and do away with your present difficulty.
The better time for the above work
would be eaily autumn. If you think
we can further assist you, please write
us again.
TULIPS DISEASED (J. F. B.).— The
Tulips are affected by the fungus
Sclerotinia parasitica, to which we have frequently
referred of late. The fungus is apt to form rest-
ing bodies in the soil and to attack Tulips planted
therein in succeeding years. It also forms resting bodies
just in the necks of the Tulip bulbs, and so may be carried
over from year to year. The disease is always most
prevalent when the foliage is exposed during its growing
period either to cold winds or frosts, and it repays the
attention for shields of Broom or other shrubs to be put
among the growing plants.
TREES AND
SHRUBS.
K.).— Of the
Loniceras
ABOUT LONICERAS (Mrs.
concerning which you enquire, Lonicera nitida, of com-
paratively recent introduction from China, is a neat,
twiggy evergreen shrub, clothed mth small, ovate, glossy
leaves of a leathery character. The fiowcrs are creamy
white and fragrant, but not large enough to be very
conspicuous. Lonicera xylosteum reaches a height of
5 feet to 6 feet and more. The flowers are small and cream-
coloured, and altogether it is not of high ornamental value.
The third, L. tartarica splendens, will at times consider-
ably exceed the height of 6 feet, but may be kept down to
312
THE GARDEN.
[June 13, 1914.
that if required. Tlie flowers, wliich arc borne in April
and May, are reddisli in colour. Loniccra nitida may be
associated witli choice shrubs, but the other two are only
fit tor the wilder shrubbery. They are of a very accommo-
dating nature, perfectly hardy, and will grow m any
ordinary soil.
MISCELLANEOUS.
CRAB APPLE LEAVES (Mrs. M.).— The leaves of the
4.pple sent are apparently suffering from cold draughts,
and the brown spots may prove a centre from which
fundus attacks may spread. It would be well to spray
the"trees with half-strensth Bordeaux mixture in order
to cheek the trouble.
NAMES OF PLANTS— If . J- .S.— We beUeve the Rose
to be Mm-. Jules Siegfried, if it is a climber : if a dwarf
grower, it may be Zephyr. -E. M. Whittlesey.— Liose
Captain C.iristv ; it a strong grower it would be the climb-
in" form of thii old Rose. Ignciriimus.—Rose General
Schablikine. Subscriber. —Sedma roseum, Rose-root or
Cudde-me-tlght. B. B. Astrop.—l. Achillea Huteri ; 2,
Achillea rupestris ; 3, Sedum Aizoon variety.—
ill E K.— Syringa persica. A. W. i?.— Geranium
svlvaticum IF. D. — 1, Cotoneaster horizontalis ; 2,
dlearia Haasti ; 3, Arbutus Unedo (Strawberry Tree) ; 4,
Buxus sempervirens (common Box); 5, Spiraea van
Houttei ; 6, Crattegns Pyracantha. C. P. Kmson.—
The Lilac sent was'onc of the many unnamed forms of
Svrinoavulnaris. It was apparently a semi-double variety,
biit too tar faded or withered to tell.-— -Tf. J. H.— 1,
Rose HomSre; 2, Mirie d'Orleans; 3, Salvia pratcnsis ;
4 Rubu3nutkanu3(Salm:m-berry); 5, Eubus laciniatus;
6 Rubu* phcenicolasius (Wineberry). Treat the Rubus
spe'ies like Raspberry for fruiting. -TF. E. P.—
Scilia peraviaila. S. Q. H.— Raphiolepis ovata — —
Minorid—1, Anthurium scherzerianum; 2, Begonia Rex
var ■ 3 Ornithogalum lactenm; 4, specimen too scrappy
to iden'tifv; 5, Zebrina pendula; 6, Tradescantia crassi-
folia- 7 Plumbago rosea; 8, cannot name without
flowers; 9, cannot name without flowers; 10, Chloro-
phytum datum; 11, Sparmannia africana; 12, Cyperui
alternifolius; 13, cannot name without flowers; 14,
Be^onii weltoneusis; 13, Begonia sp.. cannot name with-
out" flowers; 16, Crassilla coccinea; 17, Cotyledon sp.;
18 cannot name witliout flowers; 19, Campanula
isophylla; 20, cannot mm' without flowers. There is
nothing wrong with the Vine leaf ; it is apparently quite
healthy J. J .—1, Cochlcaria officinalis; 2, Saxifraga
cuneifolia; 3, Saxifraga granulata flore plcno; 4, Saxi-
fraga Aizoon. M. I.. Bucks.— 1. Spiraa japonica ; 2,
Neillil opulifolia; 3, Prunus Padtis (Bird Cherry); 4,
Spirsea Thunbergii.
SOCIETIES.
NATIONAL HARDY PLANT SOCIETY.
There was a very poor attendance at the above society's
show, held in the Royal Horticultural Society's Hall,
Vincent Square, Westminster, on June 4. The com-
petitive classes were feebly contested, except perhaps
the class for a decorated table, in which competition
was very keen. The trade exhibits were very good,
and it seem? a great pity that the show was not better
patronised. The following is a list of medals awarded :
Large Gold Medals.
Messrs. Dobbic and Co., Edinburgh, for a magnificent
collection of Antirrhinums and Aquilegias. ^
Messrs. Ivelw.iv and Son. Langport, for a choice assort-
ment of Delphiniums, Piconies and Pyrethrums, for which
this firm has a world-wide reputation.
Mr. James Box, Hayward's Heath, for a most inter-
esting group of hardy flowers, including P^onia alba
grandiflora and P. lobata. An award of m?rit was granted
to the latter.
Messrs. Piper for a vast collection of hardy flowers,
including Saxifrages and Campanulas.
Small Gold Med-^ls.
Messrs. H. B. May and Sons for Ferns.
Messrs. G. and A. Clark. Limited, and Messri. W. and
J. Brown. Peterborough, for extensive groups of hardy
flowers, in which Ereniurus robusta was conspicuous.
Messrs. Barr and Sons for an intensely interesting
collection of Irises, Lupines and Lilies.
Mr. Amos Perry for Oriental Poppies.
SiLVER-aiLT Medals.
Messrs. Phillips and Tavlor, Messrs. T. S. Ware,
Limited, and Messrs. Cutbush and Sons, all for groups
of hardy flowers.
Messrs. Waterer, Sons and Crisp for a miscellaneous
group of hardy flowers, in which we noted Dianthus
inodorus and D. dependens.
Messrs. Sutton and Sons for Aquilegias, a remarkably
fine long-spurred strain.
Messrs. Harkness and Sons for an extensive collection
of Oriental Poppies and Lupines.
iMessrs. James Veitch and Sons for Irises, Eremuri,
Anchusa and other choice hardy flowers.
Mr. Frank Bouskell and Messrs. W. Artindale and
Sons for hardy flowers.
Silver Medals.
Messrs. R. H. Bath, Limited, Wisbech, for Tulips,
also Pieonies and Lupines,
The Misses Hopkins for rock plants.
Mr. G. W. Miller for herbaceous flowers.
Messrs. Reamsbottom and Co. for St. Brigid Anemones
and Lupines.
Mr. Renthe for beautiful and little-known alpines and
shrubs.
Mr. Clarence Elliott for a well-planted garden of alpines.
Messrs. Ladhams, Limited, for hardy flowers.
Awards of Merit.
Campanula Hoft in oofcert.— Shown by Messrs. Piper.
A graceful species, growing about eighteen inches in
height. The slender stems are heavily laden. with pale
mauve blue flowers. It is a biennial, and seeds very
freely.
Erigeron Asa Gray. — Shown by Messrs. Artindale
and Son. The flowers are uncommon — being light
biscuit-coloured — and freely produced about eighteen
inches from the ground.
Erigeron hybridus B. Ladhams. — A rosy pink variety
with a pleasing bronze tint in the bud. Height 2 feet,
very free. From Messrs. B. Ladhams, Limited, Shirley
Nurseries, Southampton.
Erysimum UnifoHum. — A free-flowering alpine with
mauve-tinted flowers borne over a long season. Sho\vn
bv Mr. Clarence Elliott.
' Pceonia lobata. — A beautiful species with pink. Tulip-
shaped flowers, showm by Mr. James Box.
BATH AND WEST AND SOUTHERN COUNTIES
AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY.
The annual exhibition of this society opened in glorious
weather at Swansea on May 28, and for the number of
exhibits and general interest it well maintained its reputa-
tion of former years. The horticultural section was again
a distinct success, and was, in fact, more extensive than
usual. Many of the trade Arms of the immediate neigh-
bourhood were represented, also others from further
afield.
Sweet Peas were a prominent feature, exceptionally
noticeable being groups from Messrs. Dobbic and Co.,
Edinburgh ; I\Ir. W. Tresedcr, nurseryman, Cardiff ;
and Miss Hemus, Upton-on-Severn. In the first-named
group conspicuous varieties were Bobbie's Orange, Mclba,
Lavender, King Manoel, Royal Purple and Norma. In
the next group Phyllis Bide, Prince George, Scarlet
Emperor, Edith Taylor and Maud Holmes attracted
attention ; while Miss Hemus staged numerous varieties
of the Paradise strain. Crimson, Scarlet, White, Amazon
and Mrs. Harriet Hemus being all very fine.
Messrs. John Waterer of Bagshot sent a very nice group
of Rhododendrons, as also did Mr. James Harris, nursery-
man, Blackpill. The latter's group occupied the end
of the large tent and also a considerable outdoor space.
In addition, he exhibited a large and interesting group
of mixed Primulas and St. Brigid Anemones.
Roses were well shown by Mr. Roland Adams, White
Wells Nurseries, Bath ; Messrs. W^alters and Son, Bath ;
Messrs. George Cooling and Sons, Bath ; and Messrs.
Paul and Sons, Cheshunt.
For general interest the exhibit of Messrs. R. Veitch
and Sons, Exeter, was perhaps the best in the show.
In a large and prettily arranged group were found Sarra-
cenias, Ferns, Japanese Maples, various stove foliage
plants, alpines, and trees and shrubs. Among the latter
were finely flowered branches or plants of Sophora tetra-
ptera, Buddleia ColviUei, Fendlera rupicola, Solanum
crispum, S. jasminoides, Tricuspidaria lanceolata, Robinia
Kelseyi, Olearia insignis, &c. The follomng plants
were also very striking : Leucopogon Richei, Nertera
depressa, Gerberas and Streptocarpus in variety, Lathyrus
splcndens. Calceolaria Forgettii, C. Golden Glory, C.
Vcitchii and Ceimisia spectabilis.
Messrs. Godfrey and Sons, Exmouth, exhibited a large
group of Pelargoniums, showing several sections of the
genus, while their Oriental Poppies were also very fine.
In a large group of miscellaneous plants, the president
of the show, Sir J. T. D. Llewelyn, included Palms,
Schizanthus, Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Primula sikkim-
ensis, &c.
Begonias were well shown by Messrs. Blackmorc and
Langdon, Twerton Hill Nursery, the basket varieties
Eunice, Golden Shower and Gladys being much admired.
The same firm exliibited a fine group of Delphiniums,
Carnations and other plants. Delphinium Lord Curzon
and D. Statuaire Rude wore specially fine.
Messrs. William Cutbush and Son, Highgatc, in a taste-
fully arranged mixed group included Hoses, Carnations,
Lilies, Japanese Maples, Palms, Rhododendrons, yellow
Richardias and other plants.
Herbaceous plants, including Pyrethrums, Gaillardias,
Heucheras, Incarvillea Delavayi and others, were shown
by Messrs. Rich and Co. of Bath ; while Mr. W. Treseder
of Cardiff, Messrs. Bakers of Wolverhampton, and Messrs.
H. and W. Evans, Cardiff, sent very good groups of similar
kinds of plants.
The feature of Messrs. Reamsbottom's exhibit from
Geashill, King's County, Ireland, was St. Brigid Anemones,
the flowers being shapely and richly coloured. Centaurcas
from Messrs. Jarman and Co., Chard; Pyrethrums from
Messrs. TupUn and Son, Newton Abbot ; and Sweet
Peas from Messrs. Bide of Farnham were much admired.
Lilies and herbaceous plants were well shown by Messrs,
Wallace of Colchester, Habranthus pratensis, Eremuri,
Allium rosenbachianum, Primula bulleyana and Oriental
Poppies being very conspicuous in a large and decorative
group. In the same tent Mr. Maurice Prichard exhibited
an interesting set of rock plants, while a large and varied
collection of rare shrubs was shown by the Donard
Nursery Company, Newcastle, County Down.
Ferns and Cacti from Mr. H. N. Ellison of West Brom-
wich came in for great admiration, the Ferns especially
being wonderfully well grown. Carnations from the
Countess Cawdor were also much admired.
Messrs. Young and Co.. Hatherley, Cheltenham, pro-
vided an extensive group of Carnations, in which Scarlet
Glow, Mrs. C. W. Ward. Carola, Duchess of Devonshire
and the Hon. Lady Neeld were conspicuous,
ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.
The last meeting was held on Wednesday, June 3, at
Vincent Square. Westminster. The show was of a high
standard, particularly in respect of hardy flowers; but
the attendance was not great, owing, no doubt, to the
show being held in holiday week.
Fruit and Vegetable Committee.
Present: A. H. Pearson, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs.
J. Cheal, W. Bates, J. Willard, E. Beckett, H. J. Wright,
A. Bullock, Owen Thomas and W. Poupart.
A silver Banksian medal was awarded to C. Eric Hambro,
Esq.. The Gardens, Pickhurst Mead, Kent, for a group
of Melons.
Orchid Committee.
For the first time for a very long while no awards were
made to new Orchids. There was, however, an unusually
long list of novelties to gain awards from the floral com-
mittee, which more than compensated for the lack of
novelty among the Orchids shown on this occasion.
The following awards were made to groups of Orchids :
Silver Flora Medals.— H. T. Pitt, Esq., Stamford Hill ;
Messrs. Sander and Sons. Messrs. Charlesworth and Co..
Messrs. Stuart Low and Co. and Messrs. Armstrong and
Brown.
Silver Banksian Medals. — Messrs. Hassall and Co. and
Messrs. .T. and A. McBean.
Floral CoM>nTTEE,
Present : H. B. May, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs.
W. A. Bilnev, E. A. Bowles, W^ J. Bean, J. W^ Barr,
G. Reuthe, J. W. Moorman, C. R. Fielder, C. Blick,
W. Howe, J. Jennings, W. Bain. R. W. Wallace, C. E.
Shea, G. Paul, W. Cuthbertson. W\ P. Thomson, J. T.
Bennett-Po6. E. H. Jenkins, J. F. McLeod, W. H. Page,
F. W. Harvey and A. Turner.
Messrs. R.' H. Bath, Limited, W'isbech, staged a nice
lot of Sweet Peas and Tulips. Of the former, Scarlet
Emperor, Orange Perfection, Walter P. Wright (lavender).
Lady Miller (pink and cream). Glow (a nice shade of orange
scarlet) and Lilian (pink) were some of the more distinct.
Of the Tulips, gesneriana lutea. Orange Globe, Parisian
Yellow, Flambeau, Baronne de la Tonnaye (fine rose) and
Moralis (rich purple) were among the best.
Messrs. Dobbie and Co., Edinburgh, arranged a glorious
. bank of Antirrhinums and Sweet Peas, the former in the
three sets of Tom Thumb, medium and major varieties,
and perhaps nothing in the show attracted a greater share
of attention. Snapdragons are everybody's flowers, and
may be gro^vn by all. Of the more important we noted
Maize Queen, Amber Queen, Rose Queen, Yellow Queen.
Sunset (red and yellow) and nobile (which embraces the
shades of colour seen jn the Dendrobium of that name).
These all belong to the medium set. Cottage Maid
(crimson), Queen of the North (fine white), Delicata (pink
and white) and Tom Thumb (white) were all good. The
Sweet Peas were an equal success and finely grown.
Lavender G. Herbert, Melba, Bobbie's Orange, Bobbie's
Cream, Frilled Pink, Alfred Watkins (a fine lavender) and
Thomas Stevenson (orange scarlet) were among the best
vases of these fiowers.
Messrs. John Waterer, Sons and Crisp, Limited. Bagshot
and Twyford, set up a bank of Irises, Lupines, Pyrethrums
and Poppies. All were in very charming array, and quite
representative of their class. Tlie Irises of the pallida set
were very beautiful and in fine array. Gaillardias, too,
were well shown. At one end of the group choice alpines
were staged, Lewisia rediviva and Dianthus alpinus albus
being among the more important.
Mr. George Prince, Oxford, displayed an interesting
lot of Rose species and varieties. The rarer kinds included
Rosa hemisphaerica, golden yellow, flowers very double ;
R. watsoniana, with very fine foliage; R. ochrolcuca,
yellow flowers, small foliage ; R. nitida, virtually a pygmy
R. rugosa ; and R. spinosissima, pale yellow. Comtesse
de Nadaillac among Hybrid Teas was very charming.
Messrs. R. \V. Wallace and Co., Colchester, had a
delightful lot of Irises, both species and varieties. In
the Flag section we noted such as Miss Wells, Isolene,
Kashmir White, flavescens, Lady Foster (a lovely blue
pallida form of great stature), Kashmir (fine blue) and
Caterina (a grand pallida form nearly four feet high).
Hybrid forms of Cushion and other Irises were also on
view ; also the white-flowered form of I. l0e\'igata, a
most graceful plant.
Messrs. H. B. May and Sons, Edmonton, had a nice
display of Heliotrope, Hydrangea Mme. MouUifirc;
Fuchsias, Verbena Miss Willmott and V. King of Scarlets.
The pink-flowered Verbena Miss Willmott was particularly
good, well-flowered examples being shown in 5-inch pots.
Mr. H. Burnett, Guernsey, had a very fine assortment
of Carnations, the handsome flowers well disposed in large
vases. Carola (crimson), Salmon Enchantress, Marmion,
Monarch, Snowstorm, Pluto (crimson). Mandarin (fancy),
Mary Allwood, Enchantress Supreme, Mrs. Clode, Geisha
and Scarlet Glow w^erc the more prominent.
fllessrs. Kelway and Son. Langport, Somerset, had a
capital table of Paouies and Delphiniums, Wilbur Wright
(crimson), Balliol (pink). Purity (white) and Homer
(double pink) being among the best.
Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Enfield, had a fine show
of Carnations Princess of Wales, Baroness do Brienea,
Gorgeous, Carola, Princess Juliana and Venus, the last,
a pure white Perpetual Malmaison, being very fine.
Messrs. H. Cannell and Sons, Eynsford, Kent, had a
full table of rambler and pillar Roses, of which Lady Gay,
American Pillar, White Dorothy, Blush lUmbler, Dorothy
Perkins, Excelsior (very rich and beautiful in colour)
and Dorothy Dennison were all very fine. The whole
of the plants were pot-grown examples about six feet
high and flowering most prof\isely. The plants made u
great show.
GARDEN.
-^<^'-
|— *'~~SS^ef^i
No. 2222.— Vol. LXXVIII.
June 20, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
To Our Readers. — To meet the wishes of
many of our readers, we have decided to publish
The Garden a day earlier than usual. Copies
should now be on sale at all London book-
stalls and newsagents on Wednesday morning
instead of Thursday as hitherto, and in the
provinces on Thursday morning instead of
Friday. We shall be glad if any reader who
experiences difficulty in obtaining The Garden
regularly will communicate with us.
Eremurus robUStUS. — The tall, stately
spikes of Eremurus robustus make a
striking appearance in many gardens in
June. It is a native of Turkestan, and
difficulty is sometimes experienced in its
cultivation. It does best when given
deep, rich, well-drained soil on a south
border. The illustration depicts a group
of this noble plant flowering on a sunny
slope in Sir Frank Crisp's gardens at
Friar Park, Henley-on-Tbames.
A Pleasing Combination. — Eucalyptus
globulus makes a very pretty decorative
plant, particularly when used in combina-
tion with Delphiniums of various shades
of blue, the glaucous hue of the foliage
of the one forming a harmony of colour
with that of the flowers of the Delphi-
niums. If such beds are edged with one
of the red Lobelias, cardinalis or fulgens
or their varieties, they will give a pleasing
effect.
Useful Plants for the Greenhouse. —
We were very much pleased the other day
by a fine group of Calceolaria Clibranii
intermixed with Nicotiana Sanderze. All
the plants were well grown, and made a
very attractive display. Both are easily
raised from seed, and require little atten-
tion. Begonia Lloydii mixed with well-
grown plants of Lobelia tenuior also formed
a very pleasing combination.
Tomato Disease in Seed. — The current
ssue of the Kew Bulletin contains an
nteresting article on the hibernating of
the mycelium of the black spot Tomato
disease, Macrosporium Solani, in the seeds
of infested fruits. It has been proved
conclusively that the mycelium can, and does,
actually exist in the tissue of the seeds, as well
as in the form of a web on the outside of the
ntegument. It is pointed out that seed should
on no account be saved from diseased fruit, even
if the black spots are not present.
Pink Roses and Blue Alljanet. — A very
charming floral combination that we have in our
garden just now is provided by the beautiful
glowing pink Rambler Rose Tausendschoi and
the Dropmore variety of Anchusa italica. The
Rose is scrambling over a trellis fence, whence
its festoons of flowers are flung in many direc-
tions, and the Anchusa is growing in the border
immediately in front. Between the tall masses
of blue one gets glimpses of the Rose, and the
effect is very telling. It loses none of its charm
by the fact that the grouping was quite accidental.
:*^liS^:;
;*f
NOBLE BORDER PLANT, EREMURUS ROBUSTUS,
THE GARDENS AT FRIAR PARK.
Roses on Their Own Roots. — It is a very
debatable point as to whether Roses are better
on their own roots or when budded on a wUd stock.
The differences are sometimes interesting. At
the present time we have under notice two flue
plants of Alister Stella Gray. The plant worked
on to the wild Briar flowers a clear fortnight
before the other, which was raised from a cutting.
"But the first Rose to flower is soon over after
which it blooms no more until the following June ;
while the Rose from the cutting continues to
flower all through the summer and early autumn.
This difference has been observed for a
number of years. That the two trees are
from the same variety there can be Tno
doubt, for the Rose on its own roots was
raised from a cutting of the tree on] the
wild Briar stock.
An Attractive Plant for the Rockery.—
In Eriogonum mnbellatum we have an
alpine of a distinct type, with pleasing
and massive umbels of yellow flowers
on a thick scape. The base of the plant
also presents another pleasing feature ;
there we see a circular arrangement of its
spoon-shaped leaves, whose stalks are
beautifully tinted with red on the upper
side. The effect is that of a bright' red
rosette, and the contrast is very beautiful
with the yellow blooms and grey
foliage. The bright colouring is only
developed when the plants enjoy sunny
weather.
Viola cornuta purpurea.— This perfectly
hardy floriferous little plant deserves to
be more widely grown than would appear
to be the case. Somewhat resembling
single blue Violets, the freely produced
flowers possess an advantage over many
of the dwarf growers by reason of theu:
long, slender stems, making them suitable
decorative subjects when cut. They are
useful as borderings for Rose or other
beds, looking well in our own garden
associated with bushes of Frau Karl
Druschki. Viola cornuta purpurea thrives
quite happily in practically any so0, and
flowers continuously throughout the
summer and autumn without special
attention beyond the usual occasional
removal of spent blooms. Cuttings root
freely in frames in the autumn.
Variation in the Lyon Rose. — It
is well known that the blooms of this
IN exquisite Rose show a great tendency
to vary. Even Roses on the same bush
are sometimes remarkable for their dis-
similarity. At the same time there are unques-
tionably inferior stocks of this variety in commerce.
This was recently brought very forcibly to our
notice in a garden where stocks of this variety,
obtained from English and French growers, were
seen flowering under similar circumstances. In
each case the English-grown Roses showed a far
greater depth of colour, while there was also a
decided difference in the foliage of the plants.
314
THE GARDEN.
[June 20, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
(The Editor is twt responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
Early Loganberries.— On June 7 I picked
off a Loganberry bush on a wall in my garden
with a west aspect half-a-dozen fruits, quite ripe.
This is abnormally early tor me, and I would be
interested to know if it is unusually early in other
gardens.— S. A. W. Waters, County Dublin.
A Scottish Lady Gardener.— The Rev. David
R. Wdliamson desires us to say, with reference
to his article on " A Scottish Lady Gardener,"
in our issue for the 6th inst., that the rock gardens
and Water Lily pond at Logan were both designed
and laid out by Mr. McDouaU, who, as indicated
in the article in question, is an earnest horti-
culturist, and takes the deepest interest in his
gardens and groimds.
Three Good Climbers for May and June.—
I am enclosing a small photograph of a temple
the photograph demonstrates, moraine treatment
suits it admirably. I am happy to say that,
though usually I have to depend upon division for
its propagation, the present annus mirabilis has
caused it to set a plentiful crop of seeds. This
Primula must not be confounded with the totally
distinct true P. nivalis. — Raymond E. Negus,
Walton-on-Thames.
Narcissus triandrus calathinus.— Of all the
Narcissus species, this is perhaps the most beauti-
ful. Originally found by the late Mr. Peter
Barr in the Isle of Glenan, off Brittany, it is now
reported to be almost extinct there. It is, however,
remarkably free-seeding under cultivation, and
considerable stocks of it have now been worked
up by careful cultivators, so much so that the
price, which a few years back was as much as
3s. 6d. a bulb, has now come down to is. It
has been much employed by hybridists as a pollen
parent, and such lovely flowers as Alabaster,
Madonna and Alys have resulted from its use.
As a plant it is quite on the small side, and gives
PRIMULA HIRSUTA NIVEA ON THE COOL SIDE OF A MORAINE.
in these gardens, showing the Yellow Banksian
Rose, Clematis montana and Polygonum bald-
schuanicum. The Rose and Clematis have been
a picture since early in May, and even at this
date (June 10) are still smothered with flowers.
I find the best time to prune them is immediately
after they have flowered, — G, Burrows, Shendish
Gardens, KinfCs Langley, Herts. [We regret that
the photograph was not sharp enough (or repro-
duction.— Ed,]
A Beautiful Hardy Primula. — I enclose a
photograph of Primula nivalis of gardens, which
we are told is really P. hirsuta nivea, I trust
that you will find space for its reproduction,
since I think that this beautiful Primula scarcely
receives the attention it deserves. In my opinion
it is head and shoulders above any other rock
garden Primula, and I enjoy its annual display
of snowy blossoms upon the cool side of my
moraine as much as any other floral spectacle of
the year. It is not fastidious in its wants, provided
it is not allowed to suffer from drought. But, as
most pleasure when grown in pots and pans in
a frame or cold house ; but its extreme value
for breeding purposes will always make it indis-
pensable to anyone interested in hybridising,
even in a small way. The pollen of its hybrid
offspring, by the way, is not nearly so effective.
It is the true species itself that should always be
used. — Ornatus.
An Interesting Old Myrtle.— There is an
interesting plant of the Myrtle, Myrtus communis,
in the garden of F. S. Hay, Esq., at Duns Castle,
Duns, Bermckshire, where it has been since
1803. It originated from a sprig worn by the
well-known beauty of the day. Miss Lucy Johnston
of Hutton Hall, at a ball in 1777 or 1778. As
there was no glass at Duns Castle at that time,
the cutting was struck in another garden, and
the plant came to Duns Castle in the year men-
tioned. It was planted out in a conversatory,
and eventually assumed large dimensions, and
was the cause of the house being named the Myrtle
House. Within recent vears it became somewhat
decrepit, having, been allowed to grow without
pruning or attention in the way of feeding. When
Mr. P. Smith, the present gardener, took charge,
he suggested cutting it well back, and also lifting
the pavement of the conservatory to allow the
plant to be supplied with water and other
nourishment. This has been done, and the
Myrtle is again showing renewed vigour and
looks as if it would be in capital condition
shortly. — S. A.
:■ Roses and Clematises. — In the issue for June 13,
page 301, is a note upon the beauties of these
flowers when suitably used in combination. I
have had some remarkably pleasing results from
these, and give a few short notes upon a good
method of cultivation. The Roses most suited,
or at any rate those not harmed by the Clematis,
are found chiefly among the strong growers that
only produce one good show of bloom early in
each 'Glimmer, Quite a number^ of our beautiful
and earliest flowering pillar and wall Roses are
found among these. Carmine Pillar, with
the Crimson and Blush Ramblers, H6I&ie,
Goldfinch, Psyche, TausendschSn and some
of the .A.yrshires may be mentioned as good
examples. The selection of Clematises seems
best if confined to those known as the Jackmannii
section, which carry their main crop of flowers
upon the long growths of the same season. They
also flower from the end of these growths first,
and then bloom backwards along the strands
of wood. Being thus late in flowering, they follow
with a beautiful display after the Roses, and so
fill in what would otherwise have been a rather
serious gap. There is a second decided advantage
in the Jackmannii section, for we can cut away
all dead growth when pruning the Roses early
in the spring. These Clematises can be cut down
to their base, and so allow of a clear start each
season. — A. P.
The Vitality of Seeds. — In your issue of May 2
Mr. Charles Comfort gives some interesting cases
of the vitality of seeds. The following is within
my own experience. Some years ago I prepared
a piece of pasture land for planting trees. This
land had been under grass for at least thirty-five
years. Now it is well known that Charlock, or
Ketlock as it is called in Lancashire, is never
found growing in pasture land, yet the season
after this land had been turned over it was quite
yellow with Charlock, the seeds of which must
have been lying dormant for over a third of a
century. I remember, many years ago, an arable
field on the Wiltshire Downs which was [mitabile
dictu) practically free from Charlock, and was
in consequence a source of some pride to its o%vner.
The custom there was to plough only 2\ inches
deep, owing to the close proximity of the under-
lying chalk. A new ploughman set his plough
3 inches deep, and the next summer that field
was a glorious sight to anyone except a farmer,
being a mass of yellow from end to end. From
this it would appear that Charlock will not genni-
nate at a depth of 3 inches. Stranger still, when
buUdings are cleared away in a town, the site
often becomes clothed with wild plants. This
is said to have been the case on the Aldwycb
site in the Strand. Perhaps some reader can
confirm this. — Walter de H. Birch, Walton-le-
dale, Lancashire. [Our correspondent is quite
correct about the Aldwych site, but we think
that the seeds of most of the vegetation there
came from manure or from the feed-bags of
hnrsfs. — Ed.1
June 20, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
315
Primula Leddy Pilrig. — Though this is very
like a derivative of Primula pulverulenta, there
is no reason to doubt that its habit and general
appearance are derived from P. bulleyana. Messrs.
Stormonth of Carlisle possess a similar hybrid, but
of a darker tint of salmon rose. The Primula family
is full of surprises, so we need not wonder if the
above is another. For the second time I secured a
bit of P. cockbumiana last year, an offset from an
old plant, and it is flowering now and quite healthy,
shaded by a large stone, where I am hopeful it
will be perennial to a degree. Previously it proved
an annual. The new P. Juliee exhibits a habit
that renders its increase very easy. The young
growths throw out roots as they push their way
along the surface of the ground, and nothing could
be easier than offsetting these and establishing
them as single plants. It seems also to produce
seed abundantly. — B.
Flowering Trees. — The wealth of blossom
on trees, surpassing that which we usually see, has
afforded a means of comparison of extreme im-
portance. At the time of writing. Thorns are in the
ascendant^ and palpably the best decorative forms
are pure white and crimson, represented by Paul's
Double Crimson. Double Pink, which is rather
rose than pink, is also good, but light pink or blush,
of which we find several tints here, are largely
ineffective. Crataegus Aronia is blossoming and is
the best at present, but less effective than the
common Thorn. A note may also be made
of the quiet beauty of Rosemary, which is
flowering more profusely than usual, and un-
pruned bushes of the commoner Roses are begin-
ning to show what they will be very shortly.
Colours seem to me to be much deepened ;
Fellenberg, for instance, approaches crimson,
and Rosa hemisphajrica has the petals curiously
edged with lightest green. — R. P. Brotherston,
Prestonkirk, N.B.
School Shows. — I was interested in the letter
on school shows that appeared on page 235,
issue May 9. I was attending a show at
Walliugford recently, held under the auspices
of the Oxfordshire Agricultural Association, and
among the tents was one allotted to the children
of schools in Oxfordshire. Prizes were given
by private donors and the Oxfordshire Education
Committee, and I should say that this proved
to be one of the most interesting tents of the
whole show. Not the least interesting of the
exhibits were the pen drawings of bulbs and the
various plants grown by the aid of different
manures. These included Lettuce, Cabbage, Peas,
and Potatoes, each lot bearing a label giving
details as to the amount and kind of manure
used. I think that we as parents have no need
to wonder (when looking round such a tent) why
our children are anxious to go to school, rain or
snow, hail or blow. School must have an attrac-
tion for them such as it never had for us. Work
of this kind must be of considerable educational
value to the children and of real service to them
in after years. — A. Cranstone, The Gardens,
Brightwell Park, Wallington, Oxon.
COMPETITION FOR PLAN-
NING AND PLANTING
THE LITTLE GARDEN.
A
FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
June 24. — Richmond (Surrey) Flower Show.
Croydon Horticultural Society's Flower Show.
Brighton Horticultural Society's Outing to
Viscountess Wolseley's garden at Glynde.
June 25. — Isle of Wight Rose Society's Show
at Ryde (provisional). Sherborne Floral Fete.
June 27. — Windsor, Eton and District Rose and
Horticultural Society's Show,
promised, we publish below replies to
the queries which we have received
in connection with our competition
for planning and planting the little
garden. We would remind readers
that there is still plenty of time for
entering this competition, in which we are offering
cash prizes to the total value of £33 12s., as well
as a number of book prizes, for the best designs.
Competitors may send in designs for one, two,
three or four sites, as there are separate prizes for
each. Any competitor may send in more than
one design for any of the plans. The coupon will
be found on page iv.
Fences. — It is to be assumed that each plot is
enclosed by a cleft oak fence 5 feet high. Com-
petitors may mask this with plants in .any
way they think fit.
Locality. — Competitors should assume that all
the designs could be carried out in gardens
in the London district or the Midlands.
Tennis Courts in plans Nos. 3 and 4.— It is
ideal that a lawn tennis court should be 120 feet
by 60 feet, and should face north and south rather
than east or west ; but when a site is of limited
size and the position cannot be altered, designers
have to do the best they can in the existing con-
ditions. The sites were purposely chosen to present
difficulties which frequently occur. The com-
petition is intended to be practical, not ideal.
A court 40 feet by 140 feet is often as large as
can be provided in a small garden.
Perspective Drawings. — It is not necessary to
send a perspective drawing of each, or of any,
plan ; this is left to the competitor's discretion.
Elevations of garden-houses, or of other architec-
tural features, may be drawn on the third plain
sheet if desired, instead of, or in addition to, a
perspective view. A model may be sent in place of
the perspective drawing if the competitor so desires.
Cost of Plants and Labour. — It is not practic-
able to fix a schedule of prices for different locali-
ties. In fixing the sums to be spent, the cost of
labour is not taken into account ; but elaborate
schemes involving an amount of work which the
owners of such gardens could not reasonably
afford will be disqualified. A tool shed may or
may not be included.
Prices for paving or for plants should not be
mentioned. Details as to how the allowed sums
are allocated need not be given.
Position of Sites. — No. 4 site can be assumed
to be in the country or an outlying suburb.
Type of Houses. — It is assumed that the
dwelling-houses are of the ordinary gable type.
The walls of the house may be covered with
climbers at the competitor's discretion.
Effects Desired. — The judges will base their
awards on the effect which may be expected
within a reasonable time of planting. Each garden
should be planted so as to give a good effect for
as long a period of the year as possible.
Planting Plans. — These must give the details
of beds or borders shown in outline on the
plans. If all four designs are attempted, four
planting plans of beds and four of borders must
be submitted.
Entrance Drive or Path.— This is not already
designed, and should be shown on plan.
Garden Seats, Trellis, Pergolas, &c.— These
may either be purchased or made at home, but
cost must be considered.
Any competitor who has sent an enquiry not
answered here in detail will please assume that
the point raised is left to his or her discretion.
No further enquiries can be answered.
Competitors are at liberty to pin to their designs
a descriptive memorandum not occupying more
than one side of a foolscap sheet.
The last day for sending in designs is Septem-
ber r, 1914. Any time up to August 20 the
sheets of site plans on which th» designs are to
be drawn can be had on sending 4d. in stamps to
the Editor.
SOLANUVl GRISPUM.
This beautiful and free-growing Chilian plant,
commonly known as the Potato Tree, is con-
sidered by many to be only half-hardy, and
this wrong impression undoubtedly deters many
persons from planting it outside. It is a
robust and free-growing shrub from r2 feet
to 16 feet high, with conspicuous bluish purple,
fragrant flowers durmg May and June. It is not
particular as to soil, and will be found an excellent
subject for quickly covering a blank wall. After
flowering is over, all weak wood should be removed
to encourage new strong growths, which often
attain a height of 8 feet to 10 feet in a summer, and
it is upon these the flowers are borne the following
year. In Cornwall it forms large bushes in the
open, but in most parts of the country it needs
the protection of a wall, where it will prove a
very worthy subject. g.
NOTES ON CARNATIONS.
T
HE earlier border Carnations in pots,
e.g.. Lady Hermione and Leander, are
at the time of writing producing
flowers, and there will be an un-
interrupted supply till those in
borders and beds come in. Though
there is plenty of bloom on Perpetuals, there is
yet room for a selection of border varieties, and
there are always the lovely bizarres, flakes and
fancies in Carnations and the delicately refined
Picotees of both sections, yellow grounds and
white grounds, which I am hopeful will not always
suffer the neglect they do at present. Whoever
has given them the ordinary attention they ask
for, which implies all along cool treatment, cleanli-
ness and ventilation to the fullest extent, according
to weather, agree that there is no difficulty in their
cultivation.
The more recent varieties are, moreover, con-
stitutionally very much more robust, and produce
considerably more roots than the older ones they
have superseded, and it is, consequently, easier
to keep a healthy stock than at one time was
possible for the ordinary cultivator. I strongly
recommend gardeners to add a selection to their
summer-flowering pot plants.
There is no reason to hurry the propagation
of Mahnaisons. One of the most successful
growers I know — the most successful, indeed —
does not begin to layer his plants tUl the end of
July or the beginning of August. The layers
root at that time very rapidly, and the cooler
tughts seem to affect the whole system of the
young plants in a manner that induces a rapid
growth, which ensures complete establishment
316
THE GARDEN.
[June 20, 1914.
before winter sets in. It is usually desirable to
select the healthiest plants for propagation, and
if, as sometimes happens, disease has laid hold
of all, then the layers should be made from the
extreme tips, just long enough to secure a firm
bit of shoot for rooting. These make far better
growth than longer pieces with diseased leaves,
and with careful treatment through the autumn
and winter provide by no means unsatisfactory
flowering plants.
Before these notes appear, the bulk of the
Perpetuals wiU have been placed into their flowering
receptacles and the important item of staking
be engaging attention. Very strong, well-branched
THE NEWER CHINESE
RHODODENDRONS.
(Continued from page 304.)
R. Fargesii, collected by Mr. E. H. Wilson
during his first journey for Messrs. Veitch, has
dainty rose pink, tubular flowers. As these open
rather early in April, this is one of the species
which Rhododendron enthusiasts in the South
and West should cultivate, as it promises to be
a good thing.
R. flavidum (primulinum). — Flowering when
only a few inches high, this alpine species is valuable
RHODODENDRON SIDEROPHYLLU.M. THIS IS A NliW CHINESE SPECIES WITH PALE
BLUSH FLOWERS.
plants require more than ijue stick — some three,
and very large ones with numerous shoots as many
as five. By no means should the tying of the
shoots at any time be neglected. Straight growths
are an essential of success, and, apart from that,
very vigorous shoots, if unsupported, are apt to
snap off. The final stopping of the plants requires
much consideration, and must be determined
by local circumstances as well as by the habit
of particular varieties. Seasons also have a very
decided effect. The heat of last summer threw
one considerably out in calculatmg just when
to cease stopping. Some of the newer varieties
may be stopped later than others. Triumph and
Empire Day are examples of those that come on
very rapidly, while Carola and Baroness de
Brienen are very slow, and cannot be stopped
later than June. Lady Northclifie has also
been very slow in the autumn. Some are really
late winter or spring flowerers, such as Alma
Ward and R. F. Felton, which are really wonder-
fully beautiful then. The Hon. Gladys Fellowes,
which Mary AUwood supersedes, is a very con-
sistent producer. Continue limited applications
of stimulating manures to all Carnations planted
out, and keep aphis away by means of dustings
of Tobacco powder.
Preslonkirk, N.B, R. P. Brotherston.
for sheltered nooks in the rock garden, apparently
not exceeding li feet to 2 feet in height. The
yellow flowers, about an inch in diameter, are
terminal, three to five in a cluster, opening during
April.
R. intricatum. — This pretty alpine species
which flowers early in April, was the subject of
a coloured plate in The Garden for June 6.
R. lutescens. — This is a rather tender April
flowering species with yeUow flowers. It is readily
separated from R. ambiguum, the flowers being
terminal and axillary, towards the ends of the shoots
singly or in pairs. This plant reached us first from
France, and later Mr. Wilson sent home seeds.
R. polylepis (harrovianum). — Of this species
a very considerable number of plants are already
in commerce. It forms a nice bushy plant, but
requires a sheltered spot, the leaves suffering
from cold winds in exposed positions. The
flowers are purple, r^ inches to 2 inches across,
opening during April.
R. racemosum. — It will not be necessary to
do much more here than mention this species,
which is one of the most distinct and valuable
Chinese Rhododendrons for the rockery, beds and
borders. It was one of the first species introduced
by the French in rSSg. The white-tinted flowers
are freely bonic on the growths, often clothing
half the length of the shoots, which reach 3 feet
ill height. This species seeds freely.
R. siderophylluin. — Flowering towards the
end of April, this may be described as a " good-
natured " plant, being free in growth and profuse
in flowering. We have plants, 4 feet in height, a
mass of pale blush-tinted blossoms with dark
brown spots, individually half an inch across.
R. Souliei. — The glaucous green foliage and
red-stalked leaves of this species give the plants
a very distinct appearance. The rosy pink flowers
are also markedly distinct, being 3 inches across
and almost flat. A May-flowering Rhododendron.
R. sutchuenense. — This species forms a good-
looking evergreen bush, with stout, leathery
leaves up to 9 inches long. The rose-tinted
flowers are bell-shaped and about three inches
across. Our one regret in the London district
is that the flowers open in March. It is worth
trying hi pots for greenhouse decoration.
R. yanthinum. — There are several purple-
flowered species, and this at present is the most
pleasing, being a rich glowing vinous purple.
It flowers the second half of -4.pril, the individual
blooms being ri inches to 2 inches across. There
seems to be no botanical difference between
this species and R. benthamianum, though the
flowers of the latter lack the rich colouring which
is such a feature of R. yanthinum.
R. yunnanense. — Introduced to France by
Abbe David in 1889, this must be accounted as
one of the most useful garden plants. At their
best about the middle of May, the plants blossom
so freely as to almost hide the leaves. There
is considerable variation in the white, blush-
tinted flowers, which are spotted with reddish
browTi. ^_ o.
SOME OF THE NEWER
RAMBLER ROSES.
THERE are some delightful novelties
among Rambler Roses that all who
can find space for ' them should
plant. One of the best is Marie
Henriette Grafiji Chotek. This is
how its raiser, Herr Lambert, styles
it, so I suppose it is correct, although in some
lists I find the word " Grafin " placed first. This
beautiful Rose is now (June 2) opening with me,
and its flowers are like miniature Richmonds.
It is a remarkable cross — The Farquhar x Rich-
mond— for it possesses none of the Wichuraiana
habit, but rather that of the Multifloras. This Rose
blooms in clusters of three and singly, and although
there is not the intense effect there would be from a
pillar of Excelsa, yet the flowers are so useful for
cutting that no one can aft'ord to overlook it.
White Tausendsohon will be wanted in every
garden of fair size, for it is a most delightful
kind and extremely showy. The colour is not
exactly white, there being a faint suspicion of
blush pink, while at times one can have two
colours upon one plant. Both this and the ordinary
Tausendschon would be more effective if the
growths on each plant were reduced to two or three ;
then, by judicious feeding, we may have glorious
big trusses and blooms. To plant at the base
of White TausendschSn I can strongly recom-
mend a lovely new dwarf kind named Echo.
It is one of Lambert's, and is a great improvement
on Louise Walter, the so-called Baby Tausend-
schSn. I should like to see more of this effective
planting of ramblers and the Dwarf Polyanthas,
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June 20, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
31?
as one may now have almost any colour, either
to harmonise or to contrast.
Christine Wrigllt is a fine hybrid with very
large blooms of a Dog Rose colour.
Kalmia is a grand new single. The foliage is
a dark glossy green, and the flowers are white,
with the upper half of the petals tinged with
pink, producing a beautiful eficct.
Braiswicl( Charm is the nearest approach to
the Perpetual Wichuraiana. In some respects
it resembles Alberic Barbier, but is quite distinct.
The blooms are borne in light, artistic clusters,
which renders it most valuable, and until we
obtain a real golden Dorothy Perkins it will fill
the gap, for the open flowers have quite a rich
yellow colouring in the centre.
Lisbeth von Kameke is a seedling of the Blue
Rimbler, Veilchenblau, and is a very distinct shade
of pale violet. This and Sweet Lavender, another
of the bluish-tinted Roses, will lend a most beautiful
c fleet among ramblers if tastefully grouped among
the whites or creams.
merit of being pure white. There are others
under observation, and further notes on these will
follow.
Other promising novelties are the Climbing
Orleans Rose Donau, an improvement upon
Veilchenblau ; and Geisha Griiss an Freuendorf.
Perhaps this will prove to be the best dark red
Wichuraiana. Danecroft.
COLOURED PLATE.
PLATE 1196.
A BEAUTIFUL ROSE GARDEN.
T has become the custom in gardens of goodly
dimensions to devote a portion entirely
to Roses, or to Roses and plants that
associate well with them. This plan is
an ideal one, for the visitor is then able
to compare the different varieties and
to note the effect that each is capable of pro
I
Ethel is a lovely and most dainty rambler, I ducing. Again, many — ^indeed, most — Roses give
producing graceful sprays of semi-double flesh pink ] much better eflects when grouped in good-sized
flowers, and one specially useful for
cutting purposes.
Mrs. M. H. Walsh and Lady
Blanche are two fine new white ram-
blers, and will doubtless supersede
White Dorothy, which is really not
pure white. I also think the Rev. J. H.
Pemberton's new white will be an
acquisition to the Multifloras, for we
have no good white in that section
save Thalia, and this is much better.
Dorothy Jeavons, a white sport of
Blush Rambler, is rather a poor thing.
Of course, we have Waltham Bride, a
lovely early bloomer and deliciously
fragrant ; but this seems to me to be a
different type to the Multifloras, more
like a Hybrid Noisette, excepting that
it blooms but once.
Sodenia will become a great favour-
ite. It comes midway in colour be-
tween Minnehaha and E.xcelsa, and
yields enormous trusses in great
profusion.
Jean Guichard is fine, one of the
type represented by Leontine Gerbaud
and Desire Bergera. Tt is a fine
addition, and is now some seven years
old, but not much known.
Miss Helyett belongs to the large-
floweied section of the Wichuraianas.
The flowers are as large as an ordinary-
sized Tea Rose, and as it is early
flowering — opening now, in fact
(June 2) — it will be a valuable addi-
tion. The foliage is delightfully glossy,
and the flowers are rosy pink, with
salmon pink centre.
Coronation is a lovely colour, bright
scarlet, splashed with small white streaks,
an effective rambler.
Source d'Or is golden yellow, passing to paler
yellow. The trusses are not large, but it is a
fine addition to the Wichuraiana group.
Perle von Wienerwald is a grand sort for its
lasting qualities when cut. The huge trusses carry
blooms fully ij inches across, and are of a
lovely carmine pink inside and Carnation pink
outside.
Sanders' White is one of the best additions
to the double white Wichuraianas, and it has the
of Mrs. Lockett Agnew, who takes a very keen
interest in practically all branches of horticulture.
Although it has been impossible to reproduce the
colours as true as we would wish, the plate serves
to show what a charming effect can be obtained
by grouping other plants of suitable character
in the Rose garden. Here we find the Madonna
Lily making a delightful foil to the more vivid
Roses, while in the foreground sufficient of a bed
of Nepeta Mussinii is shown to give an idea of
what effect the association of red, white and
lavender blue is capable of creating.
The pergola runs the whole length of the Rose
garden, the brick pillars that support the Oak
framework above being creased at about every
fourth layer with old tiles. Near the pergola,
but not shown in the coloured plate, is a paved
pathway bordered with Lavender, out of
which rise stout Fir poles at intervals of 8 feet
or 10 feet, and each to a height of about five feet.
These support a stout rope, along which climbing
Roses, mostly of pink shades, are festooned.
Clematises are largely used in this garden in
association with Rambler Roses, pale lavender
It is
A FINE BUSH OF THE NEW CHINESE RHODODENDRON YUNNANENSE.
rouped with Rjses
mass-'s of one sort than when grown as isolated
varieties. Added to this we are able, with
the aid of the simple Larch pole, or more preten-
tious pillar or pergola, to grow the many beautiful
rambler varieties in association with those of
dwarf form, and so realise the wonderful diver-
sion, not only of colour, but of habit and time
of flowering, that exists among members of the
Rose family.
The coloured plate presented with this issue
depicts a scene in the Rose garden at Hallingbury
Place, Bishop's Stortford, the charming residence
blue varieties generaUy being
of pink tints.
A CHARMING YELLOW ROSE.
What a beautiful Rose Marquise de Sinety is ! This
year it has commenced to flower very early with
us, earlier, indeed, than most of the other Hybrid
Teas, and owiug to the cool weather the blooms
have come a real.y wonderful colour, best described,
perhaps, as burnished orange yellow. Its dark
maroon red foliage is so leathery as to successfully
withstand mildew when niany others fa'l a prey.
318
THE GARDEN.
[June 20, 1914.
WORK AMONG THE OUT-
DOOR FLOWERS.
WHEN, the other day, pacing
alongside the flower borders
with an old friend and well-
known gardener, he remarked
that there was an immense
amoimt of staking looming in
the near future. " Not so," I replied, and pushing
up the string that encompassed the stems of one
plant, 1 showed him how very simply and yet how
efficiently a strand of string wound loosely round
a plant was sufficient to preserve it in the upright
position without the aid of a stake. The staking
of herbaceous plants is to a very large extent
a delusion, and beyond a few that cannot be
managed without the support of one or more
stakes, the great majority perform their delightful
functions all the more satisfactorily unstaked.
Those that would give way under the stress of a
About Dahlias. — Just at present our Dahlias
are receiving the one necessary attention they
need to keep them right for the whole season.
This is effected not by means of stakes, but with
stout, hooked pegs, or more usually with pieces
of Snowberry bent like a hairpin, with which a
selected number of shoots are pegged to the ground.
As a rule, this is a far more effective manner
of treating Dahlias for decorative purposes than
the use of any number of stakes and ties. You
will remember how that all-round florist Mr.
William Cuthbertson mentioned at a Dahlia
Conference that the finest display of Dahlias he
had ever seen was what he termed a hedge of
them in the gardens here. These were produced
without a single stake — merely by once pegging
down.
Pruning Hardy Flowers. — One should never
be afraid to use the knife when obviously needed,
which happens very often throughout the summer
and autumn. Repeated prunings keep such a
vigorous plant as Anchusa italica in due bounds.
THE
ROCK GARDEN
JUNE.
IN
T
A JUNE SCENE IN A BEAUTIFUL ROCK GARDEN.
moderate gale need no more than a strand of
stout string, while a larger number than one would
think are best left to themselves. All the border
Lihes, such as Martagons, tigrinums, excelsum,
croceum, candidum, pardalinum and chalce-
donicum, need no support. Many composites
growing in old masses ask for support, which, when
grown in single-stemmed pieces, planted annually,
are vastly better left to themselves. None of
the large family of decorative Aconitums, nor
the Senecios, nor Astilbe, nor Bocconia need be
staked. Some may not grow quite upright,
but that is not in the way of a fault. How horrid
it is to see such a distinctly beautiful plant from
base to summit as a Japanese Anemone subjected
to the indignity of stick and tie, even if the support
be green-painted, varnished and finished in gold !
It is worth notice, too, that seedlings of certain
plants, such, for instcince, as Delphiniums and
Lupin us polyphyllus in variety, that must be
staked when old, need no support.
and at the same time promote the produc-
tion of more flowers over a longer period.
Lupinus polyphyllus and its hybrids also produce
spikes in long succession if the precaution of
removing the older spikes before they are flowered
out be taken. It is too long to leave them till
the seed-pods are being filled and all the flowers
on a spike are withered. To be successful with
many of our border flowers, one must be a little
bit removed from timidity. Thin where necessary,
prune with an eye to the future as well as the
present, and never delay easing a plant that is
worthy of it of flowers, either in spikes or other-
wise, even though their removal may for a few
days slightly lower their decorative value. Such a
free-seeding plant as the bedding Viola should
frequently be picked over, removing every old
bloom, whether withered or approaching that
condition. This will ensure a long extended period
of flowering.
Preslcnkirk, N.B. R. P. BRornERsroN.
HERE are two of Loudon's gardening
rules that seem most applicable to the
rock garden at this season, viz., (i)
" Never pass a weed without pulling it,
unless time forbids " ; and (2) " Let
no plant ripen seeds, unless they are
wanted for some purpose, useful or ornamental,
and remove all parts that are in a state of decay."
Both are common-sense rules, but a point that is
sometimes overlooked is that certain rock plants
are very attractive when fruiting. Take, for
instance, the Pasque-flower (Anemone Pulsatilla),
which at the present time is very attractive by
virtue of its heads of downy seeds, and the same
may be said of the light, feathery heads borne
by Geum trifolium. While many rock plants
are now passing out of bloom, there are, happily,
I scores of others to take their place. The rock
garden shmild be in the height of its
beauty in June. The large family of
Mountain Pinks are now at their very
best. Dianthus plumarius is one of
the best and most showy of them all,
while others worthy of special note
are D. caesius (with bright pink flowers
about four inches high), D. deltoides
(of a deeper hue), D. neglectus, D.
alpinus (with large, expanded flowers
borne close to the ground) and D.
Tenorei (with white flowers on slender
stems). Some of the alpine Pinks are
difficult or even impossible to identify,
for they are so freely crossed by bets,
and self-sown seedlings are common.
The mention of bees serves to remind
one that certain flowers are much more
favoured by their visits than others.
The bees are never tired of visiting
the small pink flowers of Thymus
cidoratissimus, and so long as this
remains in flower the bees are always
in attendance.
Saponaria ocymoides. a plant he-
lunging to the same Natural Order
as Dianthus, is now flowering in pro-
lusion. It is a pretty trailing species,
with small leaves and bright pink
flowers, and is seen to best advantage
when allowed to overhang the
rocks.
In shady places Ramondia pyrenaica and Arenaria
balearica look charming when grown together,
the former, with purple^ flowers, standing out
from vertical rocks ; and the latter, with its
white, starry flowers, creeping close to the surface
of the rocks over which it grows. Veronica
Teucrium dubia and V. orientalis make low carpets
of deep blue, while the yellow A' hillea tonientosa
forms a suitable companion to the white-flowering
species A. Obristii and A. Huteri. Antirrhinum
glutinosum and Helichrysum bellidioides are
excellent June-flowering subjects. Both creep
among the rocks, and when overhanging a bo\ilder
are never so happy. Sun Roses, Rock R' ses
and Saxifrages each contribute to the floral beauty
of the rock garden in June ; and while space does
not permit the mention of others, reference must
at least be made to Saxifraga pyramidalis, with
erect sprays of bloom 1 foot to 4 feet long. It
is appropriately known as the Queen of the
Saxifrages.
June 20, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
319
THE COLLARETTE
DAHLIAS.
k
IT is time to plant out Dahlias, and to
those who have wearied of the stiff
and heavy show varieties, the new
Collarette type specially appeals. This is
a distinctive type of single Dahlia, having
an inner circle of small florets issuing
from the base of the yellow central disc,
and edged on the outside with petals of every
shade of colour and form. It is altogether an
advance on anything hitherto seen. The flowers
are borne on long stalks well above the foliage, and
are most useful for decorative purposes, lasting,
when cut, a full week in water
in a cool room, while their long
stalks add to their usefulness and
charm.
Freedom of Flowering. — From
all those who have grown these
Collarette Dahlias one hears
nothing but praise. It seems
exaggeration to speak of them
as " perpetual flowering," yet
such was the fact last autumn.
For two months they were a
constant source of floral wealth,
and the beds were radiant with
flowers when all else save
Michaelmas Daisies had lived
their span. Until cut down by
frost they can be relied upon
to yield a profusion of
blossom; hence their value
either in separate beds or in
clumps in the herbaceous
border.
Culture. — The culture needed
does not differ from that required
by all Dahlias, which revel in
a rather heavy, clayey loam,
thoroughly well worked. Whether
the soil be heavy or light, deep
cultivation is necessary, and thus
ensures proper drainage. A liberal
supply of well-decayed manure
should also be worked into the
soil, and if this has been done
in the autumn, so much the
better. However, if the Dahlias
are to be planted in the bor-
der, this may not have been
possible. Take, therefore, the
site chosen, dig a fairly large
hole, and well mix the manure
with the bottom soil before
planting. Dahlias rarely get over-
manured.
Situation and Planting. — Being bushy in form,
moderate in height and requiring only the support
afforded by ordinary thin canes, the Collarette
Dahlia is suited for any position, flowering profusely
between shrubs or disporting itself in lonely
grandeur in circular beds on lawns, while it is most
useful in the herbaceous borders, forming a blaze
of colour in late autumn when flowers are scarce.
It is advisable to buy plants (knocked out of pots)
direct from one or other of the firms that have
specialised in this new type. Most, or all,
of the firms who specialise in Dahlias now
list them, so that there should be no diffi-
culty in obtaining plants. Turn the plant out
of the pot, taking care to preserve the ball of
soil intact, place it in the prepared hole, and i
tie it to the cane (already in position) with a I
piece of raffia. The after-attention required is |
very little. Add more canes as needed, and tie
in the growths. Slugs and insects — -the usual
pests — must be expected and destroyed at the
onset, and then the grower may feel confident of a
harvest of flowers until cruel King Frost casts his
withering hand around.
Varieties. — The following half-dozen have been
proved of sterling worth and can be recommended,
but others can be selected from the raisers'
catalogues to suit individual taste. None of
them is very expensive to purchase.
Balmoral. — A puce colour with a white collarette.
A good grower and very free flowering. I
AN
EFFECTIVE GROUPING OF SAPONARIA OCYMOIDES, A BEAUTIFUL
PLANT FOR THE ROCK GARDEN.
Queen Bess. — A scarlet with yellow collarette.
Frogmore. — The finest I know. Yellow and
vermilion, with a yellow collarette. This leaves
nothing to be desired in form and colour, while it
is very vigorous and a perpetual bloomer.
Princess Louise. — A rich crimson flower with
broad petals and white collarette.
Negro. — A maroon with white collarette. Is of
lovely form and colour ; very free and effective.
Probably the best word to describe
Henri Farman, a bright vermilion edged with
primrose, with straw collarette, is " grand " — the
word used by everyone on beholding a newly
opened flower of this variety. S. M. C.
SEASONABLE NOTES ON
CHRYSANTHEMUMS.
THE FINAL POTTING OF THE
PLANTS.
BEFORE June ends, the whole of the
plants must be placed in their flowering
pots, not only those intended for
flowering in October and November
for exhibition purposes and the
furnishing of the conservatory, but
also those that are to yield flowers in December
and at Christmas. There are several points in
connection with the treatment of late-flowering
varieties that amateur cultivators ought to care-
fully note. One is the advisa-
bility of getting the plants well
established in their large pots in
good time, as we should remember
that feeding at will can be done
later on. Another important
point is the stopping of the shoots
also in due time. It is a great
mistake to stop the shoots late,
as very frequently the resultant
blooms are entirely lacking in
substance. Often I have seen
them with two or three rows of
petals on one side of the opening
buds only.
The Final Potting is regarded
by some cultivators as the prin-
cipal one, and also the chief
thing that can be done in regard
to the treatment of the plants.
That it is important I admit,
but really not more so than the
previous repottings, as, unless
the work in connection with them
is equally well carried out, poor
plants would result now, and no
amount of care in doing the final
potting would convert them into
splendid specimens. In carrying
out the work, care should be taken
to ensure sound drainage, clean
crocks and pots both inside and
outside, a well-mi.xed compost and
pots of suitable size. Weakly
growing varieties should be potted
in g-inch pots, and stronger
growers in loi-inch ones. If
larger pots are used, place two
plants in each, and take on two
main stems on each plant if they
are being grown for the produc-
tion of exhibition blooms — four
blooms to a pot instead of the
orthodox three. By following this
plan the general health of the whole collection will
be maintained at a high standard.
The Soil. — Fibrous loam must form the bulk
of the compost. If the loam is rather heavy,
use more leaf-soil and sand in it than if it is of a
light nature. A pint of bone-meal to a bushel
of the compost, a 6-inch potful of soot and a similar
quantity of wood-ashes to the bushel, with a
good concentrated chemical manure, according
to the directions given with it, should complete
the compost for the final potting. Do not ram
the soil very firmly ; there is the medium course,
and this is best, taking the potting of the whole
collection of incurved, Japanese and single-flowered
sections respectively. The wood may be too
320
THE GARDEN.
[June 20, 1914.
hard. There is only a given time for the growth
of the plants, and if the stopping or the natural
breaks are right, the growths made afterwards
will mature sufficiently. Put in some of the
coarser parts on the crocks, and use the remainder
in due proportion to the small. Leave space at
the top for top-dressings, watering and feeding.
A 2-inch space will be sufficient, and nearly the
whole of this will be filled by light top mulches
applied every ten days after the end of July,
or the third week or so in that month. After
potting, space out the plants in rows north and
south if convenient, and place the stakes to them.
If the weather proves bright and dry, syringe the
plants twice every day, and be
careful not to overwater the soil ;
then new roots will permeate it
very soon. Avon.
planted out on a heap of litter and leaves,
with a surfacing of old potting soil, encouraging
the growth by the aid of hand-lights, or
even pieces of glass laid over bricks. Sow
seeds where the plants are to fruit for a succes-
sion. Mulch the surface to encourage freedom
of growth.
Radishes require much attention to maintain a
regular succession of succulent roots. Small weekly
sowings are better than sowing at longer intervals.
Nothing is finer than the French Breakfast type
for flavour or quick growth. During dry weather
well soak the soil before sowing the seed. After-
wards apply a light shading until the plants are
SEASONABLE
NOTES ON
VEGETABLES.
Celery. — Plant firmly in well-
prepared trenches, lifting the plants
carefully with a good ball of soil
attached to the roots of each.
Failing showers, keep them well
watered in the trenches, and dust
the plants occasionally with soot
as a preventive of the Celerv
fly-
Asparagus. — Continue to cut
evenly over the beds until the
end of this month. Thoroughly
soak the beds occasionally with
liquid manure, which not only
improves the present " grass,"
but assists the plants for next
season's crop. If in an exposed
position, secure the strongest
plants by pieces of string on
each side of the bed to prevent
them being broken by wind. A
few short Pea stakes thrust in
among the plants will pro\-ide
useful supports.
Cucumbers in Frames will
now need careful attention,
especially if they have been
fruiting some time, and will
require stimulating for future
crops. Prune rather severely
any growth that has borne
freely. This cutting away of old
haulm and leaves will provide
more light and encourage new
growth, especially if the plants
receive a good soaking of liquid
manure and a mulching, 2 inches
thick, of partly decayed manure, leaf-mould or
fresh loam, adding a handful of soot. This will
encourage the growth of surface roots. Keep
the frame somewhat closer for a time, closing it
early in the afternoon with plenty of sun-heat,
first sprinkling the foliage with tepid water.
Pinch out the point of each new shoot
above the second leaf, and if fruits show
freely, thin these for the benefit of the plants
in the future, as too many plants are ruined by
overcropping.
Ridge Cucumbers must have attention.
Those previously raised in pots should be
of growth, which will be found an advantage next
year.
Peas. — Continue to sow late sorts like The Glad-
stone, Goldfinder, Late Queen and Ne Plus Ultra
in previously watered drills. Well soak and mulch
all plants growing in rows. Where extra fine
pods are required, thin judiciously, and top the
haulm when a sufficient crop is assured. Stake
early to encourage upright and robust growth, and
do not forget that the more moisture that can
be given to the roots, especially liquid manure,
the better will be the result.
Runner Beans now growing freely should have
attention. Train the haulm thinly up the stakes,
removing surplus lateral growth.
Water well, syringe in the
evening, and mulch between the
rows.
Lettuce should be often sown.
On the Celery ridges is an eco-
nomical method. Water the drill
before sowing. Directly the plants
are large enough to handle, thin
out and transplant, thus having
an equivalent to two sowings.
Moisture at the root and over-
head in abundance is the only
secret in obtaining succulent
Lettuce.
Onions need attention in their
various stages. The Rocca and
Leviathan types should not be
overfed yet, lest too many plants
run to seed. Keep a sharp
look-out on all batches for
mildew. Dust with wood-ashes
and soot as a preventive. Th?
outdoor-sown batch will require
thinning where large bulbs are
required ; but for ordinary use
and for pickling no thinning is
required, especially if thick sow-
ing has been avoided. Keep the hoe
busily employed between the
rows. E. MoLVN'Eux.
Suhinniorf, Hants.
THE RARE AND BEAUTIFUL IRIS L.^VIGATA ALBA. A WHITE
FLOWERED lORM OF A LITTLE KNOWN SPECIES.
above the surface. Sprinkle them in the evemng
for preference.
Turnips are a difficult crop to manage during
a spell of drought. Choose a shady place ; a
north border, for example. Water the soil before
sowing, and, as soon as the plants appear above
the soil, dust them over with soot and wood-ashes.
Thin out the plants early.
Rhubarb should receive encouragement for
its welfare next year by the prompt removal of
seed-stems and be given a thick mulching of
partly decayed manure, the juices of which
will benefit I lie roots and encourage freedom
IRIS Lv^VIGATA ALBA.
It was recently our good fortune
In see, for the first time, this
rare and beautiful Iris flower-
ing in the vast collection of
Irises in Messrs. R. Wallace
aid Co 's nursery at Colches-
ter. The flowers are clear ivory
white, with a faint shading of
mauve at the throat. Growing
about two feet or less in
height, it is a variety that at
once arrests attention by virtue
of the purity and refinement of
It was not surprising that it should
have been granted an award of merit by the
Royal Horticultural Society at a recent meeting.
It should be pointed out that it is quite distinct
from the laevigata alba of gardens, which is really
a variety of sibirica orientalis. Neither must
IjEvigata (true) be confused with the species
Kffimpferi, from which in foliage and form of
flower it is quite distinct. Unfortunately much
confusion still exists between Iris laevigata and
1. Kaempferi. That they are distinct in flower
and foliage may be seen from the illustration of
..e white-flowered form of the typical I. laevigata.
the flowers.
June 20, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
321
GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.
HOW TO GROW CELERY AND LEEKS.
» S both of these popular vegetables thrive
/% best in a deep, friable loam, the
/ % cultivators who possess such have a
A~^% great advantage over others who have
* * to deal with a stiff, adhesive loam
which can only be satisfactorily
worked a few hours after a shower of rain, and
which pans down very hard if worked while in
a very moist condition. Cultivators will now
turn their attention to the planting of Celery
and Leeks, and look for their reward next autumn
and winter. Trenches may have already been
made and manured ready for the plants. If
the soil in the bottom of the trench is found to
be set hard, dig it and break up any lumps before
putting out any plants. I liave found it a capital
plan to gather up some old potting soil, road
DIAGRAMS TO REPRESENT GOOD AMD BAD PLANTS
OF CELERY AND LEEKS AT PLANTING-TIME.
scrapings from roads not frequented by motor-
cars, sifted leaf-soil and material from the surface
of old hot-beds, and, having scattered the mixture
in the trench, dig it in and so provide a suitable
rooting medium for the young plants.
About Trenches. — I am quite sure that culti-
vators make their trenches too deep. The best
soil — that about sixteen inches from the top —
is taken out and placed so as to form ridges
between the trenches. Manure is then put in,
and the plants in it and the cold subsoil. The
good soil taken out is used mainly for earthing-up —
blanching purposes. Some cultivators do return
a portion of the good soil before the plants are
put out. The cultivator shotild be guided a
good deal by the depth of rich soil he possesses
as to the matter of trench-making ; but even
in the case of very good, deep soil, the trench
should not be deeper than r8 inches before manure is
put in. In poor, shallow soils 9 inches is deep
enough. Tile top soil removed should be placed
on one side, and the spit below it on the other
side. Then return the good soil and the manure,
and thoroughly mix both before putting in the
plants.
The Plants and Planting.— Dwarf, sturdy
plants possessing plenty of roots, such as shown
at No. I, Fig. A, are the best if from 5 inches to
9 inches in height. Very tall, weakly specimens
with few roots, resembling No. 2, are not good
ones. They receive a severe check when dis-
turbed, and do not recover for a long time after
planting in the trenches ; in fact, nearly ail the
tallest leaf-stalks perish. No, 3 denotes a fine
transplanted Leek, and No. 4 a poor one as drawn
from the seed-bed. Single rows of both Celery and
Leeks should be planted as denoted by the crosses,
No. I in Fig, B, and double rows of the former
in zigzag fashion 10 inches apart, as shown by
the small circles. No, 2, No. 3 also shows them
in the trench with neat ridges, Nos, 4, 4, on which
temporary crops, such as Lettuces or Dwarf
Beans, may be grown, A sectional view of the
Leeks and trench is shown in Fig, C, These
plants are gross feeders, and so plenty of rotted
manure should be mixed with the soil quite a foot
deep for the roots to make a good start in, as shown
at No, I, No, 2 being undisturbed soil. In every
case water thoroughly, and maintain the soil
in a moist condition. It is also beneficial to the
plants if a surface mulch of loam, leaf-soil and
manure is put on an inch deep at the time of
planting. G. G.
A VIOLA FOR THE ROCK GARDEN.
One of the most brilliant of our new rock garden
Violas is the variety we call Solitude. It is of
the gracilis grandeur class, and has a very dwarf,
neat habit, with small, pointed leaves, and carries
its hordes of blossoms well erect upon sturdy foot-
stalks. It is long in blossom, having been in
ijower throughout March, April and May, and
is still as full as ever without any attention, and
promises to go on for a considerable time. It
will be noted that, belonging to the improved
grandeur type, the new-comer will prove of the
utmost value for rock garden work, also for bedding,
as few Violas flower like this section, and none
retains so well as these that splendid dwarf habit
which is such a tremendous asset in their favour.
But, after all, it is the colour of Solitude that
tells — a deep mountain blue, rich and unsullied,
that carries one in thought at once to the clear
skies and the distant blue of the high hills.
The appealing intensity of Solitude is very real,
and if we can get it on the slopes it will attract
more than gracilis or grandeur, or, indeed, to
my mind, more than any other blue Viola,
Its name Solitude was bom of the mountain
blue of its colouring, unusual in its serene
beauty, P. S. Hayward,
■..■,.l■lMlln^/;l)^'^^m^llll'l'^.|^i^,
SHIRLEY POPPIES AS CUT FLOWERS,
When inspecting the various exhibits at flower
shows, one has frequently been both sorry and
surprised at the comparatively small number of
competitors in classes for the beautiful Shirley
Poppies — of such easy cultivation, and for whose
o
/
02
o
o
'>n;'liiii;ii;i,';iiii|\'iihii'i||i(;;Hn';'rH;iM
4»Jr
im
^pm
the .methods of PLANTING SINGLE AND DOUBLE
ROWS IN A TRENCH ARE SHOWN HERE,
introduction we all owe a debt of gratitude to the
Rev, W. Wilks, the able hon, secretary of the Royal
Horticultural Society — ^the obvious deduction
being that this pretty annual is not so much grown,
or if grown, cut and used, as it deserves to be.
The reason lies probably in the fact that the cut
blooms do not, in the ordinary way, last well in
water, owing to the "bleeding" process which
ensues ; hence their apparent comparative un-
popularity. This disadvantage can, however,
fortunately be remedied with a minimum of
trouble if, immediately after cutting, the stalks
be immersed in half an inch of boiling water for
two minutes, then placed ordinarily in cold water.
It is best, of course, to cut the blooms before they
are fully expanded, and a method of assistance in
this direction is to crack the outside covering of
all vertical buds the previous evening ; this ensures
having young blooms next day. By the practice
of the above plan the erroneous — yet common —
impression that Shirley Poppies cannot be made to
last will be dispelled, for they will then keep several
days, while, incidentally, their decorative value
will be increased. This is the method I have always
adopted when exhibiting Poppies, with successful
results. B. W. Lewis.
'7r/7777/;/fl/-/y/^77///77/77r/7/m7r//
c
SECTIONAL VIEW OF A WELL-MANURED TRENCH,
SHOWING THE YOUNG LEEKS PLANTED.
322
THE GARDEN.
[June 20, 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
Grape Lady Downe's. — The final thinning of
these Grapes should be accomplished as soon as
possible. Remove all seedless berries, and allow
sufficient space for the berries that remain to
grow to their full size without coming in contact
with each other. Examine the border, and if
necessary give a good soaking of weak liquid
manure, after which the ventilators should be
left slightly open during the night. As the season
advances, the ventilators should be opened early
in the momrng with a view to clearing off con-
densed moistxrre.
Tomatoes. — Plants which have set a full crop
may have their tops pinched out, and should be
assisted with some stimulant ; either liquid manure
from the farmyard or Peruvian Guano washed
into the soil will suit them well. Keep the side
shoots pinched off, and if the foliage becomes too
strong, some part of it may be removed. Plants
for succession may be potted into their fruiting
pots and grown in some well-ventilated structure
where air can be admitted night and day. If
house room is not available, these plants will
set their crop quite well in the open if staked and
secured to a wire in the same manner as Chry-
santhemums. Pot moderately firmly in good
turfy loam, and place a few half-inch bones over
the crocks.
Plants Under Glass.
Sprine-Struck Plants of Dracaena, Croton,
Pandanus and Begonia should all be potted up
as soon as ready and grown in a temperature of
75°. Keep a watch for insect pests, which must
be destroyed as soon as they appear, or the plants
may soon become deformed in consequence.
Cinerarias. — If seeds were sown in April, the
plants will now be ready for potting into 4-inch
pots. They should be grown in a cold pit facing
north, and protected from strong srm when
they become established in the fresh soil.
Chinese Primulas.— The early batch of these
should now be ready for potting into 4-rnch pots.
These plants succeed best when grown in a cold
nit on a bed of ashes until the autumn, when
they should be removed to a cool, well-ventilated
house within a foot of the roof glass. During the
summer Primulas will benefit by exposure to
night air, and the lights may be removed with
advantage during warm evenings, but not during
heavy rain. Primula seeds may still be sown
to produce plants for spring flowering.
The Flower Garden.
Watering. — If the weather is dry, constant
attention should be given to recently planted
subjects, for, if allowed to suffer from want of
moisture at the roots, no amount of care afterwards
will restore them to their natural beauty. After
watering has been thoroughly accomplished,
the soil between the plants should be carefully
hoed, and this will act as a mulching to the roots.
In places where a mulching of horse-manure
can be applied, this will be of great advantage
to the plants ; but before this is applied it should
be placed together for fermentation and allowed
to remain for a few days. Plants in vases with
restricted root space and full exposure to sun
and wind should receive daily attentiori in this
respect, or many of them may cast their leaves
and become unsightly.
Spring Bedding Plants.— Wallflowers, Poly-
anthuses and other plants intended for spring
bedding should be transplanted from the seed-
beds to a convenient plot, in order to produce
good, stocky plants when the time arrives. Allow
sufficient space between the plants to admit
plenty of light and air, and do not allow them
to suffer from want of water during the summer.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Raspberries. — Plants which are swelling their
fruits wUl benefit by a good soaking of manure-
water, and, if not already done, the bed should
be mulched with farmyard manure. Suckers
which are not required for next season's crop
or for autumn planting may be removed, in order
to admit sun and air among the plants. As soon
as the fruits begin to colour, the bed should be
carefully netted to protect them from birds.
Strawberries. — Late batches of Strawberries
should receive an abundant supply of water at
the roots, in order to swell the fruits. If once
the plants are allowed to suffer from want of water,
the prospect of a satisfactory crop will be much
reduced. Net the plants as soon as the fruits begin
to colour.
Wall Trees. — ^The leading shoots which are
necessary for extension shoidd be carefully tied
or nailed in the direction they are required, but
no general stopping of the growth should take
place for another month. Apricots which are
planted on well-drained borders must receive a
plentiful supply of water at the roots. Examine
the trees for maggots, which should be destroyed
at once. Peach trees ought to be syringed early
in the afternoons, and if there are signs of red
spider or other pests, a little Quassia Extract may
be mixed with the water constantly to keep them
in check. The final thinning of the fruits should
take place as soon as possible, leaving the best-
placed fruits and nothing beyond a fair crop.
The Kitchen Garden.
French Beans. — Frequent small sowings should
be made in the open garden, choosing ground
which has been trenched during the winter. As
growth advances, a mulching of decayed manure
will be of great benefit to them, especially if the
weather is dry.
Carrots. — A sowing of Stump-rooted Carrots
may now be made for use in the winter and spring.
If the soil is dry, the drills should be watered freely
in the evening and the seeds sown the following
morning. If a crust has been formed by the water,
this should be slightly disturbed before the seeds
are so\vn.
Spinach. — This is an important summer crop,
and requires a good deal of attention during drj-
weather. At Frogmore we sow weekly in cold
pits during the summer, and water freely everj'
day. By this means we keep up a constant
supply of green leaves through the summer.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Asparagus. — In most cases it will not be wise
to cut after this date, although I have known
several gardens where cutting was continued
until the beginning of July. These cases, however,
are exceptional ; indeed, if the beds are not in
a very good state, it would be better to stop
even much earlier than the middle of June. It
must he remembered that next season's crowns
have to be formed by the present year's growth.
When cutting ceases and the young growths come
away, care should be taken that these are not
shaken bv strong winds, otherwise the stems
break off at the base, which will weaken the crown.
To prevent this, they should be supported with
small stakes and connected with tarred string.
Dwarf Beans. — A sowing made out of doors
now will for all practical purposes be sufficient to
last the season. Should the ground be dry and there
be no immediate sign of rain, it will be ad\'is-
able to soak the seeds in water for several hours
before sowing, and if the weather continues dry,
they will he all the better for an occasional watering.
For this crop thin out the plants to about a foot
apart.
Peas. — In many districts it will not be safe
to sow after this date, at least in the open, and
even a sowing made now may to a large extent
be precarious. For the most part I advise sowing
early varieties for late cropping ; still, I was
much impressed a year ago with a very fine crop
of Peas quite late in the season, which I was in-
formed was Chelsonian, and it seems it can always
he relied on. Seeds sown now should be soaked
in water for an hour or two previously. Avoid
thick sowing, which would assuredly encourage
attacks from mildew.
The Flower Garden.
Dahlias. — These will now have got nicely
started away in their flowering quarters, and
every care should be taken to hasten them on
till the flowering stage. As it is scarcely possible
to overfeed them, a little short farmyard manure
spread over the surface will be very beneficial.
Their season, as a rule, is all too short, and should
their growth be retarded by any neglect, it is just
possible they may be cut down by frost before
they come into bloom. It must be remembered
that earwigs are particularly fond of Dahlias,
and every means should be taken to have them
trapped. This is best done by placing a little
dry moss in a small pot and putting it inverted
on the stake. The pots must be examined morning
and evening and the earwigs destroyed. Do
not wait until they have done some damage,
but commence trapping at once.
Flowering Shrubs. — A great many of these
will have passed out of flower, and any pruning
that is necessary should be done forthwith. In
doing so, first cut away all decayed and sickly
branches, and afterwards cut back the strongest
shoots, so that when completed the shrub will
have the appearance of a renewed lease of life.
Plants Under Glass.
Winter Stocks. — A start should now be made by
sowing a small quantity of seed of these delightful
winter and early spring flowering plants. The seeds
may be sown either in small pots or boxes, and
placed in a cold frame and brought on very
quietly. Successive sowings can be made till
the end of July. The Stocks most suitable for
this work are the Beauty of Nice type and that
lovely lavender Emperor, Augusta Victoria. During
the past season we had a house devoted to them,
and they were a sight not readily to be forgotten.
Many of the spikes were over two feet in length.
I find they travel well and last a long time in a
cut state.
Coleus thyrsoideus. — This striking greenhouse
plant is fast becoming popular, partly from the
fact that it possesses flowers of a clear blue shade,
a shade which is very much in evidence at the
moment. The plant itself, however, is handsome,
and, blooming as it does in the winter, it has an
additional attraction. Cuttings should be inserted
at once, and, like other members of this family,
they root quickly. After being potted on they
ought to be pinched at least twice to form nice
bushy plants. Keep them growing on in a moderate
temperature where they will have plenty of light
and air.
Solanums. — These one-time favourite fruiting
plants will now be ready for their final potting,
and in doing so see that the soil is moderately
rich. For obvious reasons the pot should not
exceed 6 inches or 7 inches in diameter. In
favoured districts these plants may be gro^vn
outside during the summer months, but in colder
districts better results will be obtained by growing
them in frames.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Protecting Strawberries. — If this has not
been done, no time should be lost in having the
nets put over the various plantations. This
work is often delayed too long, on the plea that
the fruits are not yet colouring. My experience
is that the birds often attack them before they
get to that stage, and it is much more difficult to
keep the birds out after they have had a taste
than it would have been had the fruits been
protected earlier.
Raspberries. — These should receive a heavy
mulching at once if this has not been already done.
Before doing so, clear the ground of weeds, and
thin out the suckers where they appear too close.
Fruits Under Glass.
Peaches. — In houses where the fruit is colouring
a drier atmosphere should be maintained, and
to enable the fruit to be well coloured all round,
it will be necessary to put the leaves aside ; indeed,
if time permitted, each fruit should be turned up
to the light by placing a small piece of lath tmder
it. In the earliest houses where the fruit
has been gathered, the trees should be heavily
syringed to keep the foliage healthy, and see that
the border is in a moist condition.
Vine Madresfleld Court.^Water should never
be given to the border until it has been previously
tested. This should, of course, apply to all fruit
borders under glass, but more particularly to those
containing this fine variety. If the border is too wet,
the berries will be liable to split ; this usually occurs
just before they commence to colour. Another
cause of splitting is the berries being too tightly
packed. In any case where splitting is observed,
keep a free circulation of air night and day.
John Highgate.
(Head-gardener'to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopetoun Gardens, South Queensferry, N.B.
June 20, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
323
BOOKS.
The Ethics of Rebuilding.* — Mr. Weaver,
in the prefatory note to this volume, writes :
" The welcome given to ' Small Country Houses
of To-day ' would seem, if I may believe my
correspondents, to have been due in no small
measure to chapters which described old houses
repaired and enlarged. This suggested that a
second and uniform volume, dealing wholly with
the treatment of old houses, whether cottage
or farm, house or small manor house, would be
useful to the increasing number of people who
like the atmosphere of age in their homes."
The author's previous volume in the same
series was a deserved success, and we believe this
book will be accorded a welcome at least as great
as that enjoyed by its predecessor. The many
difficulties which are inherent in the repair and
enlargement of an old house are very thoroughly
dealt with in this book, which shows how forty
houses of five centuries have
been given a new lease of life
Detailed descriptions reveal
how they have been re-
equipped as modem needs
demand, without destroying
the witness they bear to the
old traditions of building.
Incidentally the author has
shown in how many cases the
records of modest little houses
have been preserved and how
intimately their local story is
woven into the larger fabric
of national history. To all
who contemplate the altera-
tion of an old house and
desire to achieve it in the
right spirit, this book will be
an indispensable guide.
My Garden in Summer. f —
Mr. Bowles in "My Garden
in Summer " has written a
book more interesting even
than " My Garden in Spring,"
captivating though that is.
The writing throughout is
brisk and breezy, while it is
replete with amusing passages
which make it the more
piquant. One which has
" fetched " us is the following : " The Haworthias,
with their starry rosettes, look as if sprinkled
over with pearls or a carefully picked out
handful of white hundreds and thousands,
which could only have been the work of the little
girl who produced a farthing in the sweet-shop,
saying, ' A farthing's worth of hundreds and
thousands, and please pick out all pink ones,' "
Mr. Bowles tells his readers of plants which many
of them may never have heard of, and accordingly
whets their desire to grow them. It is rather a
surprise to us to find the author, who does not
as a rule shrink from expressing his opinion about
many plants, writing favourably of Rose Rayon
d'Or. We admit it has perfect mildew- proof
foliage and bears some beautiful flowers ; but for
how long can it be grown ? Our experience of
it is that when it does not die outright the first
* " Small Country Houses : Their Repair and Enlarge-
ment," by Lawrence Weaver. Country Life Library ;
15s. net.
t " My Garden in Summer," bv E. A. Bowles. London ;
E. and T. C. Jack ; price 5s. net.
season after planting, it dies by early instalments.
We are glad to see that Mr. Bowles has so high an
either. The only reason why production cuiitinues
must be on account of new cultivators joining
opinion of Rosa Moyesii — too seldom seen in | the ranks of specialists, and to these the new
gardens — a good doer, practically evergreen, and writers who from time to time emerge into the
a veritable glory throughout June. By the by, public gaze make a strong, if not an overpowering
we know of no hybrid raised from it yet. On appeal. It is to these, the extreme tyros, that
pages 72 and 73 Mr. Bowles tells his readers of the present volume devotes its fifty-five beautifully
the lovely Roses he saw in bloom at Modane last printed pages ol Carnation lore. From the
year. What a pity he did not mark them then simplicity of the style and the unconnected group-
and pay the spot a visit in lifting-time ! His ing of the various items, one would not have been
garden would have been the richer for it, and so surprised to learn that the author had been keep-
would some of ours, as Mr. Bowles is the very ing in view the horticultural schoolboy. And
soul of generosity. In reading the book one the very simplicity aimed at has been the means
almost feels one's self walking round the author's of leading him astray on more than one occasion ;
garden with him, so realistically is it written, but that perhaps is rather on account of book com-
Mr. Bowles is undoubtedly ever open-eyed and a position being less in his way than the production
keen observer of everything, whether it be a plant,
an insect, or a bird. He is enthusiastic of Mont
Cenis and its neighbourhood, as well he might be,
for we know of no place more beautiful or more
interesting from a plant point of view. Many
who read this book will feel as we do — that we
A THATCHED SHELTER AT MR. F. E. SMITH's HOUSE
must alter our gardens and make them more like
the author's. A persual of " My Garden in
Summer" cannot fail to teach readers much
they did not know before. It is apparently
written with a good-natured desire to help them,
and not with a superior didactic air we have met
with in other books. From beginning to end " My
Garden in Summer " is a book of kindness — charac-
teristic of the author. It is charmingly written,
original and full of information, while there is not
a passage in it to which the most sensitive person
can take exception. In a word, it is a book we
cordially recommend to every horticulturist.
Perpetual-Flowering Carnations.* — Books on
Carnations are becoming as plentiful as those
on Sweet Peas, two flowers which are so easy
to grow that it would be expecting too much
to look for anything novel in a new volume on
* " The Perpetual Carnation and How to Grow It In-
doors and Out of Doors," by E. J. Wootten, Carnation
Specialist. Manchester; Warren and Son, Limited.
London : Simpkin and Co.. Limited. Price 3s. net.
of the sweetest of sweet flowers. One cannot judge
of the utility of a book like this just because of these
obvious facts — facts that stare one in the face
in perusing the book. The teaching is in general
to be commended, though why cuttings properly
treated should require so long a time as six weeks
to become rooted is not
very clear, j Other cultural
items as well as the remarks
on cutting and preserving
the blooms when cut are tn
the point. Like other
growers, Mr. Wootten has
his special compost, which
contains as much as one-
third rotted stable manure
to the loam. I should tremble
for the future of Carnations
given manure in these pro-
portions ; but perhaps the
3-inch potful of charcoal
to the eight bushels of soil
and manure is intended
as a mild corrective. The
timing of the blooming sea-
son by means of stopping
is becoming an '"absorbing
question, which the author
leads one to expect to
see solved in the list of
varieties appended, but one
is disappointed to find
nothing of the kind when
reference is made to the
list. This is a serious omis-
sion. The volume is illus-
trated, showing blooms of
. nicely bound in art linen,
R. P. B.
many Carnations,
and the printing is clear and good
PRELIMINARY REPORT ON THE
WORK OF THE TULIP NOMENCLA-
TURE COMMITTEE.
In the autumn of 1913 an invitation was issued
by the Royal Horticultural Society to the leading
growers to send to Wisley for trial bulbs of their
varieties of Tulips, with the names under which
they respectively knew them. These were planted
at Wisley, and on Monday, April 20, a joint com-
mittee of Dutch and English experts met to consider
the early varieties, and again on May 6 and 7
to consider the May-flowering varieties. The
committee consists of Mr. E. A. Bowles, M.A.
(chairman), Mr. Krelage (vice-chairman), the
Rev. Joseph Jacob, and Messrs. Barr, de Graaff,
Hall, Hoog, Leak, Needham, Roes and Ware.
Over four thousand varieties were examined,
324
THE GARDEN.
[June 20, 1914
and their nomenclature and synonyms determined.
The trials of the May-flowering varieties only
will be continued in 1913, and growers are invited
to send fresh bulbs — five of each variety — named.
Bulbs will not be accepted later than November i,
1914. Senders are asked to roughly designate
their colour and the class to which they belong
to facilitate the work of planting.
On each occasion the committee sat in confer-
ence and drew up recommendations for a classifi-
cation. These will be reconsidered at a conference
to be held at Vincent Square on May r3 and 14,
1915. It is then intended to prepare the final
list of varieties and synonyms, and all recom-
mended varieties will be definitely placed in one
or other of the sections and subsections of the
classification. This final list, with official descrip-
tions, will be printed and published by, and at
the expense of, the Royal Horticultural Society
in conjimction mth the Dutch Bulb Growers'
Society in Haarlem. To make the descriptions
short and clear, certain typical varieties will be
selected, described, figured and named, so that
others can be described by reference to them.
Thus systematised, the colour, shape, base, and
the relative length and breadth of the inner
segments will be recorded.
The Council have adopted the recommendation
of the committee to hold a show of Darwin and
Cottage Tulips on May 14, igrj, for cut blooms
only, in vases, for the purpose of enabling the
Nomenclature Committee to decide on the
svnonvms of the varieties sent.
PRUNING DECIDUOUS
FLOWERING SHRUBS.
hard. These include Forsythias, Prunus triloba 3 jre
pleno, P. sinensis Acre pleno and Philadelphus
Lemoinei erectus. With another group, notably
Deutzias, Kerrias and Spiraea van Houttei, it
usually pays to cut the older growths entirely
down to the ground, leaving the remainder to
develop their full length. Other bushes are
improved by cutting the ends of the flowering
branches back to where yoimg shoots are pushing
out, also cutting out a few long growths when
too thick. Instances of this treatment are
Philadelphus coronarius, Spiraea arguta, S. pruni-
folia flore pleno. and Diervillas.
At the present time the Lilac bushes, admittedly
one of om- most beautiful flowering shrubs, require
attention. All the old faded flowers should be
cut off, and at the same time thin out the quantities
of young shoots which are growing rapidly. Treat-
ment such as this, in reducing the number of
growths, admits more sun and air to the bushes,
with the consequent development of much better
flowering wood for next season's display of blossoms.
Another matter which may have attention at the
present time is the mulching of deciduous flowering
shrubs with well-decayed manure, also watering if
the weather is dry. Should the manure be considered
objectionable, there is the alternative of watering
liberall)' several times with liquid manure. A. O.
WILD
FLOWERS FOR THE
GARDEN.
r
I HE correct pruning of many flowering
shrubs has a great deal to do with
their success or failure in our gardens.
It may mean — in fact, it usually does
mean — the difference between a most
attractive border of flowering shrubs
and just an ordinary border of shrubs serving
as a screen with no particular beauty. Broadly
speaking, flowering shrubs can be divided into
two great groups, namely, those which flower
during the spring and early summer, and those
which produce their blossoms in late summer
and autumn, which, if any priming is required,
shoifld be attended to in early spring.
At present we are concerned with the first-
named group, which includes the Philadelphus,
Ribes, shrubby Prunus, the early-flowering
Spiraeas, Deutzias, Forsythias, Kerrias and Dier-
villas. The term "pruning" here is intended
to include also the cutting out of old, useless
wood and the thinning of the growths to admit
air and light into the bushes, thus ripening the
shoots, which will improve their floriferous
character. At the same time, the shape of the
bushes may be considered, taking off a long piece
here and shortening a shoot elsewhere to maintain
them as shapely specimens. The time to do this
work is as soon as convenient after the flowers
fade. This enables the plant to make ample new
growth for the sun and air to ripen before the
dull days of winter. It is quite impossible here
to give any hard-and-fast rules respecting the
amount of pruning necessarj-. Individual require-
ments vary so much, and the position the plants
occupy in the garden may also need consideration.
Some kinds flower mr^re freely when pruned fairly
WHEN thinking of wild flowers for
the garden we should on no
account forget the Woodruff.
If there is a damp, shady place
where little will grow, the Wood-
ruff will cheerfully spread over
and lighten it with its tufts of bright green leaves
and snowy white flowers. The Trollius, or Globe
Flower, is a fine, handsome summer plant and
worthy of a place in any garden. If annuals are
wanted, then why not try a collection of British
Poppies ? One cannot, of course, get the great
diversity of colouring as in Shirley Poppies, but
collecting the seeds of the different kinds, the
Pale Poppy, the Round Rough-headed Poppy,
the Long Smooth-headed Poppy, the Opium
Poppy, and so on, will be a work of great interest.
Then there are the Crane's-bills. They deserve
to be represented in every garden. First, one
might have the Dusky Crane's-bill (Geranium
Phaeum), flowering in May and Jime ; then, in sharp
contrast, the beautiful bright blue Meadow Crane's-
bill (Geranium pratense), and the Bloody Crane's-
bill (G. sanguineum), with large purple flowers
and deeply cut leaves. A place should be found,
too, for the common purple Foxglove, though,
unless there is some bare spot where it can spread
at will, it must be kept carefully within bounds.
Another plant to have in small quantities is the
Borage, also its two cousins, the Viper's Buglo^s
(Echium vulgare) and Alkanet (Anchusa officinalis),
all three of which have bright blue flowers. If
there is a wall to be considered, plant Red Spur
Valerian (Centranthus ruber) in the crannies. Once
it gets a firm hold, it spreads quickly and flowers
on from June to September. The Rose Bay
(Epilobium angustifolium) should on no account
be forgotten. It makes a splendid show if given
a rather damp position, but here again it must
be kept in order, or it will choke ever>-thing else.
One must not linger too long over the summer
flowers, attractive though they are. The early
autumn is very well supplied with blossom, too.
All the different Campanulas or BeUflowers are
well worth growing, and so is the beautiful blue
Chicory (Cichorium Intybus), which will go on
until it gets nipped by the frosts of October.
There are two bulbous plants for the autumn
which one ought to find room for — the Meadow
SaSron (Colchicum autumnale) and Scilla
autumnalis, or Autumnal Squill. The first named
is very like a Crocus, with flowers of an indescribable
shade between pink and purple. It is not common,
but grows freely where it is established. One
peculiarity about it is that its leaves and seed-
pods do not appear until the spring, though the
flowers are out in September and October. The
Autiramal Squill is a rather larger plant than the
better-known spring variety, and its flowers are
not quite such a beautiful blue, but, none the less,
it is a valuable plant for the autumn garden.
For the actual winter, one should have the two
Hellebores, Helleborus viridis and H. foetidus. The
former has flowers of a bright, clear green, while
those of the latter are rather darker and of a purple
hue. They are closely allied to the Christmas
Rose, and if planted in a sheltered position will
bloom in the very depth of winter. It is as well
to cultivate berried plants for the winter, such as
the Stinking Iris and Wild Artmi, both of which
have large heads of bright scarlet berries in the
winter. All of these are plants suitable for an
average garden without any special features,
but, of course, if one has a rock garden or a pond,
one can specialise still further. For the rock
garden one can make a collection of British Saxi-
frages ; there are about fifteen of them, and it
would be a verj' interesting task gathering them all
together. There are Saxifragaoppositifolia (purple),
S. aizoides (bright yellow), S. hypnoides (white) and
various others, including our old friend, London
Pride. The Sedums would make another collection,
and here again one finds a great variety, from the
common yellow Stonecrop, that grows on walls and
cottage roofs, to the big purple Orpine (Sedimi
Telephium), which sometimes reaches a height of
2 feet. Pinks, of which there are four different
kinds, also the Gentians, wUl adapt themselves to
a rock garden quite happily.
A pond has great possibilities for wild gardening.
To take one of the largest and handsomest plants
first, we must be sure to include the Flowering
Rush (Butomus umbellatus). It has long, sword-
like leaves 3 feet or 4 feet long, and in the summer
splendid heads of rose-coloured flowers. One
should, of course, have Water Lilies, both yellow
and white, also the yellow Iris for the early summer,
with Arrow-head and Water Plantain to follow.
If the edges of the pond are damp and marshy,
then there are innumerable possibilities of growing
things like Bog Asphodel (Hottonia palustris)
or Water Violet, Butterwort, Buckbean, &o.
Even if the edges are not marshy one can make
a great show with Loosestrife, Forget-me-not,
Amphibious Persicaria, Skull-cap and various
other plants. In fact, as soon as one turns to
wild gardening, a vast range of new and interesting
possibilities is opened up to us.
One word of warning in conclusion. Unless the
plants are common, or you know that there are
plenty of them to be had, do not go and dig them
up yourself, but get them from a florist. Almost all
the rarer British wild flowers can be obtained quite
easily and cheaply, either plants or seeds, from a
good nurseryman, and, there is no excuse for
despoiling the country of rare plants. D. C.
^^t.
GARDEN.
-pS?=--'
rfsl^^
No. 2223.— Vol. LXXVIII.
June 27, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
The Great Spearwort. — What a noble waterside
flower the native Ranunculus Lingua is, yet so
very rare in English gardens. Its tall, straight
stems, bearing very large, rich yellow flowers like
giant field Buttercups, are very handsome. With
this and similar moisture-loving plants more freely
used we might obtain a fringe of beauty, not only
of flowers, but also of foliage, to out pools and
streams during the summer and autumn months.
The Shrubby Flax. — Linum arboreum is
one among many others of a beautiful and
useful class of plants. It is of a sub-shrubby
character and well suited for the rock
garden, usually attaining a height of i foot
and as much through, although occasionally
one comes across specimens twice that size.
At the present time it is crowned with its
golden cup-shaped blossoms. It is not in
any way fastidious, but the best position
for it is a sunny, well-drained one in gritty
loam ; and, should the soil be of a non-
calcareous nature, it will greatly benefit
by the addition of some old mortar rubbish
worked in. The plant is easily raised from cut-
tings of the growth that follows after blooming.
The Speaker and Horticulture. — We have
much pleasure in publishing a portrait of the
Right Hon. James W. Lowther, P.C, LL.D.,
D.C.L., M.P., Speaker of the House of
Commons, who is presiding at the annual
Festival Dinner of the Gardeners' Royal
Benevolent Institution on Friday of this
week. This Institution is doing a vast
amount of good work in granting pensions
to aged or infirm gardeners, or the widows
of gardeners. We hope that all of our readers
will do what they can to support it. The
sscretary is IMr. G. J. Ingram, 92, Victoria
Street, Westminster. In spite of his busy
life the Sp'aker manages to find time to
take a keen interest in practically all
branches of horticulture, and may often be
seen admiring the flowers at the Royal
Horticultural Society's fortnightly shows.
We hope at a later date to publish an
illustrated description of the gardens sur-
rounding his charming country residence,
Campsea Ashe, Suffolk.
Rock Gardens at York Gala. — Rock gardens
naturally form one of the great features of this
exhibition, and the grand old stone of the York-
shire moors is here used to great advantage.
It is remarkable, however, that there is no
special class for rock gardens at York. Class 2,
which, according to schedule, is for a group
of hardy plants and flowers, with a pool
of water arranged for effect on the ground-
level, always brings a number of rock garden
exhibitors into competition, although there is no
mention of either rocks or alpine plants in
the schedule. Surely it is time that the society
altered its schedule to include a special class
for rock gardens, and it is doubtful if any
place in the British Isles is better situated
than York for a really first-rate compe-
tition in this interesting phase of gardening.
THE RIGHT HON. JAMES W. LOWTHER, P.O., M.P., SPEAKER
OF THE HOUSE OF COMMONS, WHO IS PRESIDING AT
THE FESTIVAL DINNER OF THE GARDENERS' ROYAL
BENEVOLENT INSTITUTION THIS WEEK.
The Misuse of Colour Terms. — There seems
to be a growing tendency for raisers of new plants
to include in their names some colour term that
one might reasonably expect describes the colour
of the flower. In two Roses of comparatively
recent introduction the word " gold " appears,
and purchasers naturally assume that they are
buying Roses of golden yellow colour. But they
have to get up early in the morning to see it,
because when the flowers have been kissed by
the sun, the gold, elusive as the real thing, has
departed. Then last week a good new Pa3ony with
the prefix " golden " received an award of merit
from the Royal Horticultural Society, yet its
predominant colour is a charming shade of rose
pink, what little yellow is present being almost
hidden deep down among the numerous petals.
This loose use of terms is misleading, and is cer-
tain to do raisers of new plants harm in tlje
long run.
The Chelsea Flower Show for 1915.—
On another page we publish a communica-
tion from the Rev. W. Wilks relating to
the Royal Horticultural Society's Chelsea
Show for next year. It will be seen that
exhibitors have been asked to state whether
they are in favour of the show being
extended over more than the usual three
days, or whether they would like the show
to be opened on Wednesday instead of
Tuesday. Considering the voting, the
Council have decided to hold the show on
three days only, and that these days shall
be Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, as
in the past. We think the Council have
taken a wise step in coming to this decision.
.\ flower show, especially where cut blooms
are extensively used, is not particularly
attractive after three days of warm weather,
and we cannot think, considering all the
circumstances, that more convenient days
than Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday
could be chosen.
Fabiana imbricata. — This is one of the
most interesting of plants, and, although it
belongs to the same family as the Potato,
so closely resembles a Heath from its
outward appearance that, by the casual
observer, it would at once be taken for a
representative of that genus. It is a fairly
quick-growing shrub, with upright habit,
crowded with small leaves, the flowers being
pure white and tubular in shape, and borne
in great profusion. Like many other plants
from the regions of Chili, it is only
moderately hardy in some parts of this
country, although in some favourable
districts it will make a handsome Shrub,
while in others it will often form an ornamental
feature if given the protection of a wall. It is
said to be a useful plant for growing in maritime
districts where the climate is favourable, as few
plants can stand the sea spray better than this.
It is easily increased by cuttings, and, being a
fast-growing plant, young ones soon replace an
old plant, should any winter prove too hard for it,
326
THE GARDEN.
[June 27, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
(Tlw Editor is not rcsfioiisibte for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
Goronilla glauca Outdoors.— The specimen
shown in the accompanying illustration is planted
on the south front of Theberton Hall, on the
East Coast and not far from the sea. It has been
flowering ever since last November. It is well
worth a place in the garden for winter flowering.
The plant is 61 feet high and 6 feet wide. — W. H.
COLLETT, The Gardens, Theberton Hail, Leiston,
Suffolk.
Mazus reptans. — This handsome little plant
has been grown in this country now for some
years under the name of Lobelia radicans, and
it was not until last year, when it was shown
by the Wargrave Hardy Plant Farm at a meeting
of the Royal Horticultural Society and given
an award under the name of Mazus rugosus
(which, by the way, is a weedy annual
by comparison), that any interest was
shown in it. It is a free-growing, pleasing
little plant, blooming continuously from
spring to late autumn, although perhaps
not so freely as some plants. It prefers
a cool spot in a sheltered nook, when its
prostrate stems will creep about freely
and the small green leaves form quite a
dense carpet, above which are borne the
purplish flowers, with yellowish white
throats and reddish orange dots. In
general appearance they very much
resemble some of the small Lobelias. It
is easily increased, as the young creeping
growths root as they go, or they may be
taken and placed under a handlight. —
F. G. Preston, Botanic Garden, Cambridge.
Fecundity of Plants. — Having to hoe
a border of the wild garden recently,
I was struck by the remarkable fecundity
of certain plants and the facility with
which their seeds germinate, even under
the most unpromising conditions. The
Foxgloves, the Forget-me-nots and the
Iceland Poppies are the examples I have
in mind, where in each case young plants
come up year after year in such remark-
able numbers as to give the impression
that the plants are perennials of most
spreading habit. The seeds of many
plants are exceedingly numerous. For
example, the Henbane is calculated
to produce from 30,000 to 50,000 seeds
Poppy is almost equally prolific, and hundreds
of others in this country or in their native
home seed with such freedom as to make one
wonder what would happen if every seed
germinated. Here is an interesting theore-
tical calculation : One grain of Oats sown
in an ordinary field will grow and branch, many
of the branches producing a head of grain. For
the calculation let us take modest estimates,
say, eight branches each bearing thirty grains,
so that the resulting crop is 8 x 30 times the
amount sown. To argue that the crop should
mean a return of 240 times the amount sown
is pure nonsense ; but where is the enormous loss,
and cannot science do something to reduce that
loss just as it is at present trying to attain satis-
factory intensive cultivation ? — H. H. A.
Roses on Their Own Roots. — It is quite a
debatable point whether or not it is worth the time
and trouble spent in striking cuttings of Roses to
raise a stock of plants to grow on their own roots.
Years ago I struck many cuttings of Hybrid Per-
petual varieties under glass and in the open. Some
were a success, such as Magna Charta especially.
Plants of this variety are still flourishing. La
France, too, succeeded very well for a brief
period, and so did Paul Neyron and John
Hopper, as well as Marquise de Castellane.
Many of the dark-coloured sorts like Duke
of Edinburgh were too weak in growth to
succeed ; they seemed to require the aid of a wild
Briar to make them grow well. I have tried of late
many cuttings of climbing varieties, and find they
succeed much better ; but even these are not to be
depended upon always. Many other sorts might be
cited in support of my doubtful views as to the
desirability of depending upon plants from cuttings.
I think perhaps, if the plants so raised were tested
in rows for one or two seasons before finally placing
them in their permanent quarters, some disappoint-
A GOOD SPECIMEN OF CORONILLA GLAUCA GKOWING
OUTDOORS AT THEBERTON HALL, SUFFOLK.
The
ment might be saved. I recently saw in a nursery
fifty plants of the variety American Pillar that had
been so tested, and certainly the result well justified
the trial. Such strong-growing sorts as Felicite
Perpetue I know will flourish on their own roots
equally well with the budded plants, but this
variety perhaps stands alone in its vigour. — E. M.
Rehmannias for the Open Border. — Rchmannia
angulata. and especially the variety Pink Beauty,
is deservedly popular as a conservatory plant ;
but, excepting my own experience with it, I
have only once come across it in the open border.
That was at Hopetoun House, Linlithgowshire,
when those gardens were under the charge of
Mr. Thom.is Hay, now Superintendent of Green-
wich Park. So successful was Mr. Hay's experiment
with it that I determined to follow his example,
and the results have been equally satisfactory.
Seed should be sown about midsummer in a pan in
a greenhouse temperature, and when the seedlings
are fit to handle they should be pricked cut into
other pans or well-drained boxes, and in course of
time potted up into ji-inch pots. If well attended
to as regards watering, they may remain in
these pots till olanting-out-time, although it will
be a great advantage if they can have a shift
into 5-inch pots in the spring. The plants should
be twice pinched to induce a bushy habit. Cool
conditions suit them best, and they should be
gradually hardened off so that they may be planted
out in May. A few clumps of three in a herbaceous
border help to give it a look of distinction. I
am not quite sure where this species hails from,
but botanists tell us that the genus is confined
to China and Japan, and the other two introduced
species, A. chinensis (syn. glutinosa) and A.
rupestris, hail from North and Western China
respectively. — Charles Comfort.
Liiting Tulips.— In a letter to the Editor "H. B."
asks my advice about lifting Tulips in a garden
where the soil is heavy, and also in one where it is
light. I think there is no doubt whatever
that Tulips do better when they are lifted
and replanted every year, whatever the
soil is. As the bulb loses the whole of
its roots, or, to speak more correctly, as
the new bulb makes no roots for a con-
siderable time after the roots of the old
one have perished, nothing is gained by
their being left undisturbed, except
perhaps an earlier start into life, which
is just the one thing most of us do
not want to facilitate. The foliage comes
through the ground quite soon enough
HI our trying climate when the bulbs arc
planted in November. " H. B." also
enquires about the treatment of Tulips
when they are lifted. As soon as the
stems and leaves have gone quite
withered-looking and dry, take up the
bu'bs, cut the dead foliage off, and spread
out thinly in bo.xes or on a floor out of the
reach of the sun and draughts, but with
plenty of air. When they have become
dry, clean the bulbs and store them in
a dry place in paper bags until planting-
lime. The smaller bulbils should be put
by themselves in a nursery bed to grow
on, and le planted in September. The
very small ones had better be thrown
away, except those of any very special
sort. — Joseph J.\cob.
An Iris Contrast. — It is somewhat
remarkable that the beautiful Chinese
Iris Delavayi is not more generally grown
in gardens. This, however, may be due to
the fact that its beauty has yet to be seen
by many garden - lovers. There is nothing
quite so rich in the violet hue among
Irises as Delavayi, unless it is one or tw" of the
hnest of the Ka^mpferi Irises. In any "
may be had in bloom from May till
the end of the summer. The best
time to take the cuttings is
directly the flowering period is
past, the plants being cut down
to within a few inches of the. soil.
Prior to cutting them down, the
roots should be kept rather dry ROCK
for a few days. From these
cut-off portions of the plants the most suitable
cuttings should be chosen, selecting for the pur-
pose the short, sturdy shoots that are likely to
develop into good bushy plants. All weak shoots
with a tendency to flower must be avoided. About
three inches or a little more is a suitable length
for the cuttings, which must be inserted into
clean, well-drained pots of sandy soil. The compost
may be made up of loam lightened by a little
leaf-mould and sand, the whole being passed
through a sieve with a one-third of an inch mesh.
As much of the soil as possible should be rubbed
through. When the pots are filled, they should
be duly labelled and watered through a fine rose,
after which they may be stood on a light, airy
shelf in the greenhouse or in a similar position.
If inserted in July, the cuttings will be well rooted
within a month, when they will be fit for potting off.
For this purpose 3-inch pots are very suitable, and
the same kind of compost as before recommended
for the cuttings may be used, but it should
not be sifted. In a good, light position in the
greenhouse the young plants will grow away
freely, so that the most forward may be shifted
into 5-inch pots by the autumn. They must,
when young, have the growing points pinched
out, in order to ensure a bushy habit of growth.
Some varieties will require more frequent pinching
than others. As the plants go out of flower,
cuttings may be put in up to the end of August
or even later ; but, of course, these will take
the best way of keeping the plants free of
this pest.
Old Plants. — When the old flowering plants
are cut down as before mentioned, they should
be stood on a stage in the greenhouse fully exposed
to the sun. They will not require any water
j at the roots, but should be bedewed over two or
I three times a day with the syringe. Under this
treatment young shoots wil' soon be pushed
out, and as soon as the most forward are about
half an inch in length, the plants should be repotted.
They must be shaken quite clear of the old soil,
when, at least in some cases, it will probably be
found that there are but three or four roots
coiled around the pot. These
roots should be cut back hard,
and all the plants be repotted into
a much smaller pot than they
were in before. Some will by
autumn need repotting, but the
bulk may be left till the spring.
.\t all events, these old plants
may, if desired, be grown into
much larger specimens than those
obtained the first year from
cuttings. H. P.
HARDY FLOWERS
FOR CUTTING.
T
GARDliN BY THE LAKIiSIDE AJ BLliK'HLKV I'.'iKK
longer to root than the earlier ones, and conse-
quently they are best wintered in small pots.
In early spring they may be put into those in which
they are to flower, 5-inch and 6-inch being very suit-
able, using turfy loam with a little leaf-mould
or well-decayed manure and sand, and taking
care that the soil is pressed down firmly. This
last item is a very important one in the culture
of these Pelargoniimis, as, if potted loosely, the
shoots run up quickly and become bare at the base
before the flowering period. When the pots are
well furnished with roots, stimulants must be
given ; but it should be borne in mind that
cuttings from highly fed plants do not root so
readily as those to which little stimulant has
been given. In all stages of growth green fly
gives a good deal of trouble, vaporising being
H.\T hardy flowers are
more popular to - day
than ever goes without
saying, but those that
are adapted for indoor
decoration are, perhaps,
the most useful. To be able to
cut them with the freedom that
one ought, it is advisable to have
a reserve plot for the purpose, as
cutting from the permanent bor-
ders is seldom satisfactory, for
fear of spoiling the eff. ct. Such a
plot should be situated in a good
growing position and be well culti-
vated, and planted more for ease in
cutting rather than for effect.
The earliest flowers available
are the Narcissi ; but as these
are usually planted under more
natural conditions, they are not a
necessity in this plot, unless it
be the late Gardenia - flowered
variety, N. albus plenus odoratus,
which appears to delight in rather
better attention than do those
that flower earlier. Turning to other bulbous
plants, we find the early flowering Gladioli particu-
larly useful in such varieties as Colvillei alba. The
Bride (pure white) and cardinalis (scarlet, with
white flakes). Blushing Bride is a pleasing
combination of white and pink, while Peach
Blossom and Rosy Gem are titles that need no
comment. Following on these are th,e Spanish
Irises, which for cutting can scarcely be equalled.
Some pretty colours include Cajanus (deep golden
yellow). Reconnaissance (dark bronze with gold
blotch). King of the Blues (a fine dark blue),
British Queen (white, striped orange) and Louise
(pale blue). The English Irises flower a few days
later, and some good examples are Proserpine
(dark purple), Mont Blanc (white, with yellow band
down the centre) and Prince Imperial (clear blue).
I
June 27, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
331
After these come the beautiful white spikes of
Hyacinthus (Galtonia) candicans ; these are very
useful for tall vases along with the late summer-
flowering Gladioli. This section is larger and
more stately than the early-flowered varieties,
and they are seen at their best in such forms as
brenchleyensis (brilliant scarlet) and the many
charming hybrids.
Among the Lilies we have a wide choice, and as
many of them are happier when not disturbed too
frequently, the site for them should be thoroughly
prepared previous to planting. In the speciosuni
group we have such sterling varieties as s. Melpo-
mene, with rich crimson flowers, heavily spotted
and edged white ; s. album, pure white ; and
s. rubrum, white, with red spots. Other most
useful forms include L. candidum or the Madonna
Lily, also the beautiful Orange Lily (L. croceum),
while L. tigrinum (Tiger Lily) and the charming L.
canadense are indispensable. Of
Montbretias it is impossible to speak
too highly, as they are so light
and graceful, and in colours that
are very effective under artificial
light. They have also been con-
siderably improved of late years,
a fact which is very noticeable in
such varieties as Prometheus, with
its tall branching spikes of rich
orange flowers that are shaded and
spotted with crimson in the centre.
Others of equal merit are George
Davison (pale orange). Koh-i-noor
(deep yellow on apricot base) and
Germania (orange scarlet). The ^'
foregoing notes, though not ex-
hausting the suitable list of bulbous
plants, serve to show that from
June till well into October there is
more or less of a succession, and
the same is possible to a greater
extent among plants at very little
cost, as many of them can be
raised from seed sown in early
summer.
Commencing with this convenient
section, one of the most useful
is the Aquilegia, as few hardy
flowers come in earlier and are
more effective in vases of any
description. These are followed by
the Pyrethrums, which for their
beauty and free-flowering nature
are well worthy of extensive
cultivation. From a packet of seed some good
varieties are obtainable ; but where this method
of obtaining a collection is not adopted, the follow-
ing is a selection of the best forms. Among the
doubles are Lord Rosebery (scarlet), Aphrodite
(white), Duchess of Teck (pink) and Lady Kildare
(buff yellow). Some pleasing singles are Ixion
(bright rose), James Kelway (crimson), Ahmed
(pure white) and Fairfax (pink). For July flower-
ing the brilliant colours of the Gaillardia and of
Coreopsis grandiflora are indispensable.
In Heuchera sanguinea we have a typical
herbaceous plant, and as its flowers are most useful
for cutting, it should not be overlooked. Del-
phiniums are beautiful in their varying shades of
colour. Among the named varieties they are seen
to perfection. Belladonna is a lovely blue with
white eye ; Enchantress, light blue. In Barlowii
the flowers are deep blue, shaded red, while for a
pale yellow there is none to compare with Beauty
of Langport ; it is a semi-double, and its well-
formed spikes are freely produced. Another charm-
ing flower is Scabiosa caucasica. In colour it is
pale lilac, and as the flowers are formed on excep-
tionally long stems, it cannot be too highly praised.
A vase of Sweet Peas is incomplete without that
charming little flower, Gypsophila paniculata.
The Giant Oriental Poppies are not favourites
with everyone ; but as they are practically alone
where size and rich colouring are concerned, they
are worthy of a little space. Of a more graceful
appearance are the Iceland Poppies, and though,
like others of the same family, they are short-
lived, vases containing them more than repay for
the trouble of everyday replenishing. Lychnis
chalcedonica is also worthy of note for its brilliant
heads of scarlet flowers. The Ox-eye Daisy
(Chrysanthemum maximum) is useful, as are some
of the Campanulas, notably C. grandis, C. pyra-
and fragrance nothing can equal Hesperis alba
flore pleno. Other varieties are H. lilacina and
H. purpurea. All of them are at their best towards
the end of June.
The Phlo.xes are general favourites, especially in
such an excellent variety as Amabilis (bright salmon
with crimson centre). Iris is a beautiful shade of
violet blue ; Amazon is pure white ; a beautiful
rose pink is Eclaireur ; while for an excellent
scarlet John Stewart is worthy of note. Achillea
Ptarmica The Pearl is at its best in July, as are
also Helenium pumilum magnificum and the newer
variety Riverton Gem. With the approach of
September there is a wide choice of suitable flowers.
The outdoor Chrysanthemums are approaching
their best, the perennial Sunflowers give us an
abundance of yellow flowers, and the Japanese
■Anemones supply the always big demand for white
flowers, while the brilliant spikes of Kniphofia
STONE STEPS LEADING TO THE WATER LILY POOL AT BLETCHLEY PARK.
midalis and C. persicifolia. All the above repay for
good treatment to fit them for early spring planting.
There are others not generally raised from seed
that should on no account be overlooked, as they
include some of the brightest and most reliable
flowers for all purposes. Of these the earliest to
flower are the Doronicums, two useful varieties
being D, austriacum and D. plantagineum excelsum.
Both bear yellow flowers on long, slender stems,
but the last named is of a more robust habit,
growing some two feet higher than the former.
Dielytra spectabilis and D. s. alba bloom at a time
when outdoor flowers are none too plentiful, and as
their graceful racemes of pink and white are much
sought after for tall vases, they are worthy of good
treatment. Anthemis tinctoria (rich yellow) and
A. pallida (creamy yellow) are both useful plants,
as their period of flowering usually extends over a
few weeks. Inula glandulosa is another yellow-
flowered plant not to be missed ; but for purity
Uvaria are readily made room for. These are not
over before the Michaelmas Daisies come in cloud-
like clusters to last until the cold nights prove too
much for them. Of these. Beauty of Colwall,
Climax and Amellus Perfect Beauty are indis-
pensable. F. J. TOW.NEN-D.
HERBACEOUS BORDERS.
In addition to staking and tying, the flowering
stems of such plants as Lupines, Doronicums and
many other early flowering subjects should be cut
over as soon as they begin to fade. In the case of
Lupines and Delphiniums, they usually throw up
a second crop of flowers in the autumn, which
are most acceptable. Should any vacant spaces
appear in the border as the result of this
cutting, these could be filled up with suitable
annuals or other plants that may be at
hand.
332
THE GARDEN.
[June 27, 1014.
NEW AND RARE PLANTS.
AWARDS OF MERIT.
Silene alpestris grandiflora flore pleno. —
This charming alpine is so fully described by
its name that little need be said of it beyond
the fact that it is calculated to become one of
the most popular of rock garden subjects. It
is 6 inches or so high, the double, pure white
flowers about half an inch across, and produced
with the same abundance and profusion as in the
typical species. Quite an acquisition to first-
class alpines and a gem withal. The purity of
its shroud of blossoms is reflected by a carpet of
shining green leaves. It is quite the best new
alpine of the year. Exhibited by Messrs. R.
Tucker and Sons, Oxford, and by
Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, Kent.
Delphinium Henri Moissan.—
The flowers are large, semi-double,
reddish violet or purplish in
colour, and framed into a hand-
some spike. From Messrs. Black-
more and Langdon, Bath.
Sweet Pea Robert Sydenham.
A very beautiful waved variety
of deep orange salmon colour. The
best of its class we have ever seen.
The blooms are large and well
placed on the stems. From Mr.
Thomas Stevenson, .^ddlestone.
Sweet Pea Royal Purple.— The
name is not quite colour descrip-
tive, but as an approximation there-
to readers will get a good idea of
a very fine and distinct variety.
Sweet Pea Bobbie's Orange.—
A most brilliant flower, and a
variety of merit and distinction.
The individual flowers are very
large. These came from Messrs.
Dobbie and Co., Edinburgh.
Carnation Scarlet Glow. — A
very handsome and shapely bor-
der variety of brilliant scarlet hue,
the petals of very firm texture.
We regard this as one of the
best scarlets yet raised. From
Mr. C. Blick, Carnation specialist,
Hayes, Kent.
Rose J. F. Barry. — Said to be a
sport from .\rthur R. Goodwin. In
any case it is a charming variety,
rich golden yellow in the centre and
white tipped on the outer petals.
It is obviously a free and profuse
flowering variety, and promises
well as a garden Rose. Shown the n
by Mr. G. W. Piper, Uckfield.
Rose Princess Mary. — A single-flowered crimson
of considerable colour richness. Indeed, in this
respect it is one of the most brilliant we have seen.
From Mr. Elisha Hicks, Twyford.
Carnation Bedford Belle. — A Perpetual-
flowering variety of delicious fragrance and that
shade of salmon pink which engenders popularity.
The flower is of medium size, shapely, and in its
class probably unique for its rich Clove perfume.
Raised and exhibited by Messrs. Laxton Brothers,
Bedford.
Paeonia Golden Harvest. — This is a double
pink-flowered sort, and we take the name as
suggestive of the money an acre or so of such a
beautiful variety would bring to the commercial
grower. From Messrs. B.itb, Wisbech.
Polystichum minutum undulatum. — Those who
know the typical species will realise the importance
of the new-comer as indicated by the varietal
name. It is very beautiful and distinct. From
Mr. J. Fraser, Uchelet, British Columbia.
All the foregoing were shown before the floral
committee of the Royal Horticultural Society
on the i6th inst., when the awards were made.
A USEFUL FLOWERING CURRANT.
(RiBES GORDONIANUM.)
This Flowering Currant is not so frequently met
with as the commoner R. sanguineum and its
varieties, and is not so showy or free-flowering,
yet it is a valuable shrub for the mixed border.
DAFFODILS IN NEW
ZEALAN D.
EW DOUBLE-FLOWERED P^ONIA GOLDEN HA
It is of garden origin, a hybrid between two well-
known species, viz., R. sanguineum and R. aureum,
the well-known and commonly called Buffalo or
Missouri Currant. It forms a dense, spreading
bush, and the flowers are a very pleasing and unique
colour, a shade of terra-cotta red, and are darkest
on the outside, thus making the racemes, which are
fairly long, very conspicuous before the individual
blooms open. In foliage the parentage is entirely
distinct, R. sanguineum having tomentose foliage,
while R. aureum has decidedly glabrous, pale green
leaves, and the hybrid is intermediate, resembling
R. aureum in the shape of the leaf. For vase decora-
tion it is a good shrub, as the sprigs last well in
water, are showy and distinct. E, Beckett.
Aldenham House Gardc'iis, Ehlrce.
THE notes on " Daffodils in New Zealand,"
which appeared in The Garden last
September, were intended to interest
your English readers in the progress
New Zealand is making with the
Narcissus, and also with the object
of eliciting comment and information on the subject
from other growers, for I am sure that among
them there must be a large fund of interesting
experience and knowledge, which each individual
grower would like to share. It seems a round
about way of obtaining such information, by
means of an English paper, but we
have not in New Zealand a gar-
dening periodical, or any news-
paper taking a lively interest in
horticultural matters, mth any-
thing like a general circulation
through the Dominion. However,
The Garden is a very popular
medium, and by availing ourselves
of it we effect the double purpose
of reaching home and Colonial
readers at the same time.
I have just read the letter of
Mr. Frank Mason of Feilding in
your issue of February 2i last com-
menting on my notes, and am very
pleased he has let me down so
lightly with regard to my ignorance
of Wellington growers, which I
admit, but do not wholly regret,
since it brought forth his letter,
and I hope will be but one of
many such. Since I penned my
notes my knowledge of Southern
doings has expanded, for I have
made the acquaintance of Mr, .\. E.
I.owe of Tai Tapu, Christchurch,
who came to .Auckland to act as
judge at our show last September,
and Mr. Joseph Weightman of
.Awahuri, whom I met at the Cam-
bridge Show the same month. The
latter staged there some of his early
flowering seedlings, and I can fully
endorse Mr. Mason's opinion of
his tridymus varieties. I se-
cured some of them to bring to
-\uckland for our Daffodil Con-
ference, but unfortunately they
did not last long enough. The
early trumpet seedlings shown,
RVEST. which he told me were mostly
the result of his initial sowings
of seed from chance crosses, were, I thought,
lacking in finish and refinement ; but I was much
struck by the robust strength they all showed,
demonstrating that the soil and climate of
Awahuri are eminently suitable for Daffodils.
In conclusion, may I reiterate the wish that
other New Zealand growers, especially those South
of Auckland, will take advantage of your columns
to let us know how the culture of our spring
favourite progresses from here to Invercargill ? I
understand we are to have an article on this subject
in the next issue of " The Daffodil Year Book,"
but that will not be published for some months
to come, and I prefer the homeopathic principle
of " a little and often."
Auckland, New Zealand. F. E. Grindrod.
June 27, 1914.'
THE GARDEN.
333
GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.
THE accompanying illustration shows an
old barrel planted with suitable sub-
jects and forming a picturesque
addition to my garden. A rough
wooden pipe was made 3 inches across
and square-sided, and the length was
nine-tenths of the height of the barrel, and stood
upright in the centre after being pierced with
holes. This was to ensure water reaching all parts,
and in dry weather it must be often filled up.
Soil was filled in between the pipe and the sides,
with crocks and a few turves in the lower third.
The plants were inserted as tlie soil reached the
level of the holes cut in the sides of the barrel.
Saxifraga umbrosa (London Pride), Cerastium
tomentosum (Snow in Summer), and a hardy
Geranium grew and flourished exceedingly.
The Saxifrage can be seen in full
bloom now, and the Cerastiiun just shows
round the edge on the right. A Cam-
panula and some Wallflowers (on the
top) sprang up of their own accord ;
the latter were the finest in the garden.
I have just cut off the bloom, hoping
they will flower again later. The Cam-
panula is not yet due to show buds. On
the top I have also seedlings of Canary
Creeper, which will run up tliree sticks
slanted over the watering pipe in gipsy
tripod fashion, and a Campanula gar-
ganica is thriving, its roots being pro-
tected by large stones. These are
necessary, as otherwise the soil at the
top gets very dry in sunny weather.
On the ground round the base I had
Forget-me-nots and Wallflowers. I
cleared them away just before the
photographer came, so as to make the
picture less confused ; but they are essen-
tial to complete the beauty of the real
thing. Three large, healthy bosses of
Sedum grandiflorum rubrum (red Stone-
crop) can be noticed, which will come
into bloom later and last till November ;
so three seasons' flowers are ensured.
The Cerastium and Saxifrage were green
and pretty all the winter.
Finchley, London, N. M. W. S.
FLOWERS IN OLD BARRELS.
is especially valuable for the hardening off of
bedding plants, Lobelia, Ageratum, Heliotrope,
Ivy-leaved and Zonal Pelargoniums, and other
such plants rooted and potted in the previous
autumn which have had their winter quarters
in the greenhouse. In early autumn the same
frame would be in request for cuttings of Violas,
Calceolarias and Pentstemons, while possibly
also affording shelter to Echeveria, which is much
used as an edging plant. For such cuttings
it is important that the bed of soil be raised fairly
high, say, to within 8 inches of the glass. This
will promote and retain dwarfness in the young
plant, and that degree of sturdiness, too, so essential
to subsequent success. The raised cutting-bed
will also afford drainage, and, in conjunction
with intelligent ventilation, keep damp at bay.
I
RAISING PLANTS FROM
SEEDS AND CUTTINGS IN
FRAMES.
We are persuaded that the raising of plants from
seeds and cuttings claims the serious attention
' of so many of our readers that we gladly
comply with the requests we have received
to deal with the subject. So far as the raising of
annuals and other plants intended for use in the
present summer bedding is concerned, the moment
is late. At the same time, the amateur's frame is so
constantly in request that hints on management of
both the frame and its occupants are serviceable at
any season. In the first place, we must differentiate
between the cold frame and the manure frame or
hot-bed, since both have their separate uses, and
shoidd not be confounded the one with the other.
The Cold Frame. — During the spring months,
more particularly of April and May, the cold frame
OLD BARREL PLANTED WITH HARDY FLOWERS IN A
LONDON GARDEN.
Avoid frequent sprinklings of water overhead.
One good watering when the cuttings are inserted
should last for a fortnight.
The Manure-Bed Frame has a greater value
than the cold frame, in that in it may be raised all
manner of half-hardy subjects from seeds. For
example. Aster, Stock, Phlox Drummondij,
Tobacco Plants, Ageratum and others may be raised
in this way ; while cuttings of Lobelia, Heliotrope,
Chrysanthemum, Verbena, Fuchsia, herbaceous
Phlox and similar plants will often root with greater
certainty in such a frame than in the greenhouse.
One reason of this is that they revel in the slightly
ammonia-charged atmosphere, the uniform warmth
and moisture arising from the manure-bed being
also congenial to their well-being. Then, again.
such a frame is in every way excellent for starting
tuberous Begonias or Dahlias from which cuttings
may be required. Tomato, Cucumber or Vegetable
Marrow seeds may also be so\vn. By securing
two or three loads of stable manure — a scarcer
commodity in these days than formerly —
turning it over occasionally to dispel rankness,
moistening any dry parts meanwhile, it will
be ready for making up in a fortnight or so. It
should be made 18 inches wider than the frame
at all poiftts, and, when completed, a 2-inch surface
covering of Cocoanut fibre or sifted leaf-mould
should be given inside the frame. In a day or
two the frame will be available for use. Cuttings
will need careful watering and shading. A watchful
eye must be kept so that an excess of steam
does not collect. This with strong sunlight
is dangerous. Cuttings of the before-
named subjects require free supplies of
water and root quickly. Phloxes, Chry-
santhemums and Pentstemons should be
early removed after rooting, or they
will become drawn and weak.
Raising Seedlings. — The chief dangers
to these in such a frame are thick sow-
ing, over-watering, too much soil cover-
ing, and delay in pricking off. The first
and last militate against success by pro-
ducing a thin, lanky growth, and plants
of the annual class, Schizanthus, Clarkia,
Delphinium and others, rarely recover if
once they become drawn. Here the
amateur or beginner should remember
that a dozen nicely grown Schizanthuses
are better than fifty lean specimens. The
former are the more readily produced by
sowing three or four seeds in a 4-inch pot,
subsequently reducing the seedlings to
one plant, and removing its point of
growth when 2 inches or so high. This
allows of the whole space of the pot and
the soil, too, for a single plant. Subse-
quent stopping will promote bushiness,
and an early shift into a 6-inch pot will
do the rest. Earlier sowings of this plant
in a cold frame wiU give good results for
bedding, observing drier treatment gene-
rally. The Schizanthus does not usually
transplant well ; hence pot-raised plants
as suggested are the best.
The Frame. — But while thick sowing
and the other things named are sources
of danger and great drawbacks to success,
there is an almost equal danger in the frame itself.
The frame should be clean, well painted or white-
washed. The covering lights should also be
scrupulously clean. Light is an important factor to
good growth, and may be unduly withheld owing
to dirty glass or small squares of glass. The use
of small "pieces of glass is wrong and bad, and
should not be countenanced. Each in its way
obscures light, and a thin, meagre growth results.
Then, the surroundings of the frame are often
at fault, trees or buildings obscuring the light
so much needed by the plants. These are some
of the things to avoid, some of the things which
cheat the beginner out of the successes which
should be his, if one might judge of the assiduity
and zeal with which he pursues his way.
334
THE GARDEN.
[June 27, 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
Strawberries. — No time must be lost in
securing sufficient young plants for next season's
forcing. Layers should be carefully placed in
small pots, which may be half plunged between
the rows of plants. \Vhen these are sufficiently
rooted, they may be removed to some convenient
spot near the potting-shed imtil they are ready
for potting into 6-inch pots.
Tomato Plants. — Pits from which bedding plants
have been removed ma}' now be planted with
strong Tomato plants, in preference to planting
in the open garden. If confined to single stems,
they may set a few trusses of fruit by the middle
of August, when the lights can he replaced in
order to ripen the crop before the season is too
far advanced.
Plants Under Glass.
Tree Carnations. — Plants which were struck
in Februan,- will now be ready for potting into
6-inch pots. Later plants which are intended
for flowering in the winter should be grown in a
well-ventilated pit, and, if necessarj', the tops may
be pinched as late as the end of July. Pot firmly in
good turfy loam and leaf-soil, with a sprinkling
of fine bone-meal, and in well-crocked pots.
Syringe lightly until fresh roots are made. When
the plants become established, they may be
placed on a bed of ashes in a cold pit, from which
the lights can be removed during fine weather
and replaced during heavy rain.
Begonia Gloire de Lorraine. — The most
forward batch of plants should be neatly staked
before the shoots become bent. If large plants
are desired, a number of thin Bamboo tips may
be placed in each pot as soon as the final potting
is accomplished, and the voung shoots secured
as time advances. When the pots are well filled
with roots, frequent applications of liquid nourish-
ment will be necessary. Later plants, if placed
in small pans or baskets, will make a good display
if suspended from the roof of a warm house during
the winter.
Rhododendrons and Azaleas which have
finished their growth and set their buds should be
placed outdoors in a position which is not exposed
to the middav sun. The pots may be partly
plunged in a bed of ashes. Soot-water may be
frequently applied, and the plants freely syringed
with clear soft water during dry weather.
Cyclamen. — Young plants in 3-inch pots
may be potted into 5-inch pots as soon as they
are ready. The compost should consist of rich
loam and leaf-soil, with a good sprinkling of rough
silver sand. Place them in a cold frame on a
good bed of ashes, and keep a sharp look-out
for thrip. which is a troublesome pest among these
plants. Light shading must be provided during
sunny weather.
The Flower Garden.
Border Carnations. — These are now pushing up
their flowers, and should be carefully staked before
they become too far advanced. Keep the hoc
at work between the plants, and give light dustings
of soot during showery weather. When the
flowering period is over, preparation should be
made for layering voung stock for next season's
blooming, and these should be planted in their
flowering quarters by the end of September.
Pinks. — -Now is the time to propagate Pinks.
If cuttings are inserted in a cold pit and shaded
from strong sun, they will soon make roots, when
the glass should be removed, in order to keep them
hardy and short-jointed .until they are planted
in the autumn.
Anchusa italica. — The flower-stems of this
beautiful plant should be secured to strong Bamboo
sticks with as little delay as possible. The wind
and rain may soon destroy them if not secured
beforehand. Anchusas are easily propagated by
cuttings of the roots, which may be prepared in
the same way as Seakale cuttings. August is the
most convenient time for the purpose.
The Rock Garden.
Spring-Flowering Subjects.— Many of these
are over, and should now be trimmed to give them
a tidy appearance and prepare them for the
production of cuttings for next season's stock.
For instance, the choice varieties of Aubrietia,
if cut over now, will soon produce cuttings, which
are easily propagated in a cold frame later in the
season. The same remarks apply to Arabis.
Saxifrages. — Remove old flower-spikes and thin
out and top-dress the plants as soon as possible.
By these means young stock will be available
for future plantations.
Plants in Exposed Positions should be care-
fully watered during dry weather, and this must
be applied through a fine rose to prevent washing
the soil from the roots of the plants.
The Kitchen Garden.
Planting Autumn Broccoli. — There should
be no delay in planting early Broccoli. The
ground for this crop can hardly be too rich, as
the plants will not be subjected to any severe
weather before the crop is cut. In planting
late Broccoli, the situation chosen should be open
and the soil not too rich, or many of the plants
may die during the winter. All winter greens
ought to be planted as soon as the land becomes
\'acant, and it should be remembered that nothing
is gained bv overcrowding.
Celery. — Continue to plant this crop until
the required number of plants has been put out.
Water freely as soon as the plants are placed in
position, and never allow the beds to become
loo dry during the growing season.
Leeks. — The maincrop Leeks should be planted
as soon as possible. The ground ought to be well
enriched with farmyard manure, and the plants
allowed 12 inches each way. Water freely as soon
as the plants are put out.
Onions. — Spring-sown Onions should be thinned
as soon as possible. Three inches apart will be
sufficient for ordinary purposes ; but if extra
large bulbs are desired, a little more room will be
necessary.
Chicory. — As soon as the plants are large
enough they should be thinned to 9 inches apart.
Keep the hoe at work and give light dustings
of soot during the growing season.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Carrots. — There will still be time to make
another sowing outside to provide some useful
roots for the late autumn ; indeed, in many
cases this will be a necessity where earlier sowings
have only done moderately well. For this late
sowing it would be as well to select the Scarlet
Model or Stump-rooted sorts. This sowing could
be made on ground from which early Potatoes
have been taken, and all that will be required
to be done is simply to rake the ground over and
apply a dressing of soot or wood-ashes. Should
the weather be dry, it would be as well to water
the rows until the plants are well above the soil.
Scarlet Runner Beans. — As these will now
be growing nicely, see that they are supported
in the first instance with small stakes, which
will serve until they take hold of the larger ones.
Should the soil be of a light nature, mulch them
on each side of the row with mown grass or manure,
for, as I have already pointed out, it is of the
utmost importance that they do not suffer from
lack of moisture at the roots, otherwise they will
most assuredly fail to set the flowers.
Onions. — Where good-sized bulbs are required,
the thinning out of the yoimg plants should be
completed at once. After this thinning they
must be encouraged by frequent applications
of manure-water, or sulphate of ammonia and
sulphate of potash in equal parts.
Early Potatoes. — As the border on which this
early crop was planted will be required for seed-
sowing or other equally important crop, the
remaining Potatoes should be lifted and stored.
While doing so, select tubers for seed for next
season's crop. These had better remain outside
exposed to the weather for a time until they
become perfectly ripened. In selecting the seed,
see that each set is true to the type of the particular
variety.
General Remarks. — Keep up a supply of
salads by making frequent sowings of Lettuces
and Mustard and Cress. Sow the former sparingly,
as it is better to simply thin them out. Every
encouragement should be given to growing crops
by keeping down weeds and the removal of decayed
matter, and giving an occasional dressing of some
approved artificial manure.
The Flower Garden.
Azaleas. — These will now for the most part
have passed out of flower, and, where at all possible,
the seed-vessels should be picked off and some
of the stronger shoots reduced, especially among
the better varieties. The plants must never
be allowed to become dry at the roots, and. should
there be the slightest suspicion of this, give them
a good soaking of water. Afterwards apply a heavy
mulch of farmyard manure, which should be
allowed to remain during the season.
Brooms. — Like the foregoing, the various
\'arieties will also ha\'e passed out of flower; but.
unlike Azaleas, pruning mav be more freeh-
indulged in. There is no plant that seems to
get so soon out of hand as the Broom, more par-
ticularly the lovely white variety, and, strange
to say. it is just this sort that most people are
afraid to prune. For some years I have cut the
plants hack just after they have flowered, with
the best results; but this' work should only be
done by an experienced person.
Double Rockets (Hesperis). — These fine old-
fashioned plants, which have been supplying
us with such sweet-scented spikes for decoration
for some weeks past, should now be cut well
down to the ground ; this applies more particularly
to the double white and purple. They will then
form fine bushy plants, which may be broken
up in the autumn and replanted. I find that unless
they are treated in this way, they quickly go back,
and if they are not in very favoured districts
the-\- soon die out.
Begonias. — These are plants that require
abundant moisture at the roots, and although the
soil has been well manured, thev will be all the
better to have a mulching over the surface during
the earlier stages of growth. There are many
things that might be used for this purpose, such
as leaf-mould and mn\\'ings from the lawn ;
but possibly peat moss litter will be found to be
as good as any. If this is passed through an
ordinary riddle or sieve and spread carefully over
the surface, it will not be in the least unsightly.
Plants Under Glass.
Primulas and Cinerarias. — It will not be too
late to make a small sowing of these useful early
summer-flowering subjects to ensure a succession
to those sown earlier in the year. At this
season thev will do better under somewhat cooler
treatment, and if carefullv attended to will make
quite good plants before the autumn.
Humea elegans. — This elegant greenhouse plant
will now be developing its inflorescence, and the
utmost care must be exercised in watering. Perhaps
there are no plants that resent carelessness in this
respect more so than Humeas. and that in all
stages of their growth. Young plants from a
spring sowing will be ready for a shift into a larger
pot. but on no account overpot them.
Fruits Under Glass.
Melons. — The various crops will now be in all
stages of growth, and plants that are swelling
their fruit should have the laterals stopped "and
be given abundant supplies of water at the roots.
Endeavour to keep the foliage clear of red spider
and mealy hug by the vigorous use of the syringe.
Plants growing in frames should have the growths
so regulated as to prevent the atmosphere from
becoming stagnant. Unless in ven,- favoured
districts, it will not be wise to make any further
sowings after this date, as during the latter half
of September and the beginning of October it is
difficult to keep Melons growing with any degree
of success.
Figs. — The first crop will now have been secured,
and the trees should be gone over and examined
for insect pests. If any are found, the trees
should be syringed with some approved insecticide.
The second crop is usually a very abundant one,
and will be required to be severely thinned to
enable the trees to ripen the fruit. Give plenty of
water to the roots, and if the trees are not over-
vigorous, give some liquid manure occasionally.
John Highcate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopetoun Gardens, South Queensfcrry, N.B.
June 27, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
335
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
Bcerii department of /lorfiriiltnir is rcprcsrn'i'd in 'L'HE
Garden, and the Editor inrites rradery: to ^rnd in gucsHons
rdatinn to matters npon trhlr/i t/iei/ n-i.-^fi exjwrt atlrice.
T/ic Editor welcomes pdiotoijrnphs, artirlrs tind notes,
but fie will not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, hoiveier, will be taken, and ivhere stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
eontribiUioris.
As rer/ards photographs, if payment be desired, tlie Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainljf stated.
It must be disfinetti/ under^-iond that onbi the urtuul pfwto-
gravher or oumer of the cojti/riiiht n-Hi l>r treated nith.
The Editor ivill not be respnn^-iblr for the return of artistic
or literary contributions u-hirh he nnii/ nn/ be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must nut he liiken us eridenee that an
article is accepted. Publication in I'll!'; (Jai'.di^n will alone
be recognised as acceptance.
Offices: 20. Tavistock Street, Comit Garden, W.C.
ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor intends to
make Thk Gahdkn helpful to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what t/ic branch of gardening may be, and
with that object will mafce a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to tlie Editor of The Garden, 20. Tavistock
Street, Corent Garden. London, W.C. Tfie name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flmvering
s/ioots, ivhere possible, should be sent It is useless to send
small scraps that are not cliaractcristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Pfblishkr.
FLOWER GARDEN.
CARNATIONS NOT DOING WELL {Mrs. O.)— The
Carnation blooms you sent wore cut from weak, sappy
stock ; this can be easily judged by the flabby stems.
Secondly, they are all sulferinj^ from the ravaj^tes of red
spider. These two reasons are the cause of small blooms
and poor plants. The pe.'jt is one that requires to be
absolutely destroyed ; all plants so affected must be
burned. The buif suffused rose pink bloom is called
llobert Morton : it is a border Carnation, but owinjj;
to its weak neck and weaker habit it is not what we
would describe as a useful variety.
CULTIVATION OF GERBERAS (Mrs. 5.)— In order
to induce a good display of bloom, Gerberas need libera!
treatment during the growing season. If in pots, a suit-
able compost may be formed of three parts of yellow
loam and one part each of leaf-mould and well-decayed
manure, with a fair sprinkling of silver sand. The pots
must be effectually drained, as the plants need to be freely
watered except during the winter months. While the
above instructions apply to Gerberas when srown in pots,
the plants succeed far better when planted out of doors
in a warm sheltered spot. A good example of this is
in front of the Orchid-houses at Kew, where some grand
specimens are to be seen ; towards the end of the summer
and in early autumn these throw up a mass of flowers
such as one never sees when they are restricted to pots.
It must, however, be borne in mind that only under
very favourable conditions will the Gerbera sur^dve
the wmter when planted out, and it is most questionable
whether it ^ill do so in your district. "Wlien in pots,
an occasional stimulant during the summer, either in
the shape of manure-water or one of the many concentrated
plant foods now so generally used, will assist in the
production of blossoms.
BOTANICAL TOOLS AND GENTIANS (Tm).— Try
Messrs. Sutton and Sons, lieading, or Messrs. Barr and
Sons, King Street, Covent Garden, for the former. The
Gentian family is of so comprehensive a nature, so varied
in stature and its requirements, that in a brief reply it
would not be possible to refer to the many species in
detail. At some future time we may be able to refer
to them more fully. Some of the more fastidious species
are responding to moraine treatment, and it is not im-
probable that for such as alpina, imbricata, i. alba,
bavarica and others this will prove, a more or less congenial
home. For the exquisitx:! G. verna some useful suggestions
have been given in recent issues of The Gabden, and usually
the plant is a success in very sandy soils or sandy peat
with summer moisture. G. aeaulis, still one of the most
precious of the race, usually grows and flowers well in light
sandy soils over gravel, in Heath-like soils, and in loamy
soils over sandstone rock or limestone. For these carpeting
and stoloniferous sorts firm planting is essential. The
Willow Gentian (G. asclepiadea) is usually happy in
cool woodland places ; and G. septemflda and G. Przewal-
skii. both free flowering and beautiful, are content in cool
places in very sandy loam and peat. G. Andre wsii
^the Closed Gentian) prefers moisture or very cool loam
and peat soils. We doubt your obtaining great success
when growing tlu-sr plants in pots, and only the more
(Uiuiuuti\i;-growiiig species would be at all suited to the
treatmrnl. Given the soils meiitioned, any so grown
should be plunged in a cool spot in the open or in a bed
eiieonipassrd by a perforated pipe, so that a cool base
would always be assured them.
ROSE GARDEN.
ROSES AT BAGATELLE (H. V. £.).— The following
are the awards given to various Roses from 1907 to 19l:i
by the Juries appointed to judge those sent to the Bagatelle
Gardens by various raisers. Too much importanc-
must not be attached to these awards, as several of our
most successful raisers did not send their Roses for com-
petition. 1907. — Gold medal ; Marquise dc Sinety.
Glassed Roses : Mme. E. SablayroUes, Mme. Constant
Soupert, Souv. de P. Notting and ilrs. Peter Blair. 1908. —
Gold medal: Rhea Reid. Bronze medals: Dorothy
Page-Roberts, Mme. Segond Weber, Mrs. Dudley Cross
and Frau Oberhofgartner Singer. 1909. — Gold medals ;
Lyon Rose and Mme. Segond Weber. 1910. — First-
class certificate : Molly Sharman Crawford. Certificates :
Mile. Marie Mascurand, Lady Alice Stanley and Com-
mander Jules Gravereaux. 1911. — Gold medals: Beautr
de Lyon and Jonkheer J. L. Mock. First-class certiti-
eate : Viscountess Enfield. Certificates : May Millir.
Walter Speed and Desire Bcrgera. 1912. — Non-com-
petitive : Rayon d'Or, Sunburst and President Vignet.
Pirst-cla-s certificate : Mme. Jules Bouch6. Certificates :
Frau Margrethc Moller and Orleans Rose. 1913. — Gold
medals : ilme. Charles Lutaud and Mabel Drew. Non-
comp<'titive : Louise Catherine Breslau and Mme. Edmond
Rostand. First-class certificate: Grange Colombe.
Certificates : Mrs, Amy Hammond, Louise Lilia and
Wichmoss.
FRUIT GARDEN.
PEAR LEAF MITE {Dr. W. £.).— The Pear foliage is
badly ultacked by the Pear leaf mite, Eriophyes Pyri.
(See njily to " J. G." in our issue of May 23.)
INJURY TO CURRANTS {L. S.).— We suspect a beetle,
a species of Rhynehites. is damaging your Currants,
and think it would be well to spray the bushes immediately
with lead arsenate,
SILVER-LEAF ON A PEACH TREE {F. J. 5.).— The
Peach is attected \vith silver-leaf disease, for which no
cure is known. It is a fungous disease growing in the
wood of the trees, and when once a tree is attacked, it
rarely recovers. Your best plan, since so much of the
tree is alfi^cted, will lie to root it out and start afresh.
LEAF-BLISTER ON PEAR FOLIAGE (Mr6-. K.A.K.).—
The Pear foliage is attacked by the Pear leaf-blister mite,
Erio]iliyis Pyri. We have recently given a short account
of tliis just in our " Answers to Correspondents," and
recommend that when only a few leaves an^ attacked,
they should be removed, but when many, the trees sitould
be sprayed about the end of May with a nieotim^ wash,
and in winter, while the trees are dormant, with lime-
sulphur salt-soda wash, commonly called the Oregon
wash .
LEAF-CURL IN PEACHES (IF. J. ff.).— The Peach and
Neetaiine leaves are attacked by the fungus Exoascus
deformans, which produces the disease known as leaf-curl.
It would be well to pick off all the affected shoots imme-
diately and burn them, taking the precaution also of spray-
ing the trees with ammoniacal copper carbonate at the same
time. When once a shoot is attacked, it rarely recovers,
and is of no use to the tree ; it is rather a menace than other-
wise. The disease is always most prevalent where cold
winds have access to the tree, and on this account screening
the trees from winds in early spring, and from frost, is very
desirable.
MISCELLANEOUS.
VARIOUS QUESTIONS {White Horse).— i^sosi some-
times affects Asparagus in the way mentioned, but injury
from any cause—iu-sects, the cutting knife, &c,— might
bring it about. The cause of the extremely common
phenomenon known as fasciation is unknown, nor is
any remedial measure kno\vn. It is usually attributed
to excess of food, cither local or general. The only means
of keeping wasps out of a \dnery are : (1) Destroy all
the nests in the neighbourhood. This may easily be
done if the wasps' nests are traced and a small quantity
of carbon bisulphide poured into them after dusk, taking
care to dig out the comb next day. (2) By covering over
the ventilators of the house with muslin or mosquito netting.
It would be better to fumigate the Clianthus rather than
to spray it mth paraffin emulsion, and if spraying is
regarded as the best method of attack, then a nicotine
preparation would be safer to use than paraffin.
NAMES OF PLANTS.— K/s, P. J., CAe-sie/-.— Saxifraga
op pof-iti folia. Felpham. — Muscari comosum plumosum.
- - -Subscriber. — Apparently Sedum spurium ; cannot
name without flowers. Anne Amateur. — The flower was
too far gone to recognise. A.C. — Lonierra iiivulucrata.
F.N., Woolwich. — Heracleum villosuni,al-^o called H.
j/iganteum, a Caucasian plant belonging to ihe Umbidlifer
family. II. J., Oxon. — 1, Sedum rupestre : 2, Spiraea
bracteata ; 3, Armeria maritima laucheana ; 4, Litho-
spermum purpxireo - cEeruleum ; 5, Saxifraga tenella ;
6 and 7, Helianthemum vulgare varieties. H. G. — 1,
Leycestcria formosa ; 2, Thuja plicata ; 3, T. orientalis ;
4, Collomia coccinea ; 5, Kleinia articulata (Candle Plant).
F.F. W. — 1, Lilium pyrenaicum ; 2, Dianthus
fse^ius variety ; 3, D. deltoides ; 4, Aceena Novse-
Zclandise; 5, Saxifraga Sibthorpii.
SOCIETIES.
ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.
The fortnightly m'-rting of Ihc Ruyal Horticultural
Society was held at Vinerut Square, AVe^tminstor, on
June 16. Hardy perennial flowers were shown in pro-
fusion, and the excellent exhibits of fruit trees in pots
were deserving of the highest praise.
Fruit and VEr.ETABLE Committee.
Present: C. G. A. Nix, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs.
W. Bates, E. Beckett, H. Markham. A. R. Allan, F.
Perkins, W. E. Humphreys, H. J. Wright, P. C. M. Veitch.
A. Bullock. J. Jaques, J. Willard, W. Pope, A. Grubb
and A. W. Metcalfe.
Vegetables were not extensively shown, but Messrs.
Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, W.C, sent a collection
that came in for a good deal of praise. In addition to
Pras, Carrots, CucumbiTs and Caulifiowers, there were
.Mushrooms, Egg Plants, and .such herbs as Pennyroyal,
Silver Thyme, Rosemary, Witloof and Myrrh. A silver-
gilt Knightian medal was awarded to this collection.
Messrs. G. Bunyard and Co., Maidstone, showed Cherries
ill pots, all well eropjifd with tlnir luscious fruits. The
varii'ties shown wen- j;i1(ni ilr:ni. Black Heart, Governor
Wood, Werdn's Early Black, I.udwig's Bigarreau, Black
Tartarian, Turkey Ibart, Frogmore Bigarreau, Napoleon
Bigarreau, Waterloo and Belle of Orleans. The collection
was interesting, and nilected great credit upon the culti-
vation given them. Silver Banksian medal.
The gold medal collection of pot-trained Peaches,
Nectarines and Cherries shown by Messrs. James Veitch
and Sons, Chelsea, was beyond question one of the features
of the exhibition. Among the fan-trained Peaches,
Amsden June was shown in grand form. This is on(^
of the best of the early Peaches, being just in front of
Duke of York, and ripens at the same time as Early
Alexander. Of the Cherries, Frogmore Bigarreau is one
of the best of the White Heart varieties. It was interesting
to note that Guigne d'Aniioiiay, the oldest Cherry in
cultivation, is still one of the {'arliest to ripen, and an
excellent cropper.
A silver Banksian medal was awarded to the Horti-
cultural College, Swanley, Kent, for packed fruits.
Orchid Committee.
Present : Sir Harry J. Veitch (chairman). Sir Jeremiah
Colman, Bart., and Messrs, James O'Brien, Gurney Wilson
R. A. Bolfe, F. Sander, J. Wilson Potter, S. H. Low!
F. J. Hanbury, R. G. Thwaites, T. Armstrong, A. McBean,
W. Cobb. J. Charlesworth. C. H. Curtis, W. P. Bound,
A. Dye, E. H. Davidson, H. G. Alexander, AV. H. AATiite
S. W. Flory and W. Bolton.
There were very few novelties on this occasion, the
only one to gain an award being Odontoglossum King
Arthur, shown by Messrs. 'J. and A. McBean, Cooksbridge,
for which a first-class certificate was awarded.
Silver Flora medals for groups of Orchids were gi-antcd
to His Grace the Duke of Marlborough, Blenheim, Wood-
stock, Oxon; Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Bush Hill
Park ; and Mr. E. K. Asbton, Broadlands, Tunoridgc;
Wells.
A silver Banksian medal was awarded to Messrs.
Charlesworth and Co., Hay ward's Heath, for a group of
choice Orchids including many Odontiodas.
Floral Committee.
Present : H. B. May, Esq. (chairman). aiKl Messrs.
C. T. Druery, W. A. Bilney, J. \V. Barr, F. W. Harvey.
J. Hudson. R Hooper Pearson. C. U. Fielder, J. F. McLeod.
C. Bliek, J. Jennings, W. Howe, G. Reutlie. C. Dixon.
H. J. Jones, F. Page-Roberts, C. E. Shea, C. E. Pearson.
G. Paul, W. J. Bean, J. T. Bennctt-Poe. AV. P. Thomson,
E. H. Jenkins, AV. G. Baker, W. Cuthbertson, A. Turner
and J. AV. Moorman.
Messrs. R. AV. AVallaco and Co., Colchester, displayed
a goodly table of hardy plants, among which were noted
Iris gracilipes, several pots of which were most profusely
ffowcred ; Hypericum reptans, a graceful trailing species
with yellow flow^ers and reddish stems ; Iris Forrestii,
yellow, with blackish striated falls ; Pentstemon hetero-
phyllus, of metalhc blue and violet shades ; ^v1th Cam-
panula garganica in blue, white and pale blue, C. pulla,
C. pulloides, together with fine batches of A'^erbascnms,
Ixias, Primula bulleyana, Heucheras and other good
hardy flowers.
Alessrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden and Taplow.
Bucks, had an excellent display of Peonies, Spanish
Irises in variety. Lupines, Delphiniums, the early flowering
Gladioli, Nepeta MussiTiii and choice Lilies, of which
L. regale (myriophyllum) was jirrhaps the most pronounced.
Ml'. James Box, Lmdrtcld Nurseries, Hayward's Heath,
Sussex, arranged an cxcidlent corner group of hardy
plants, among which were Pteonies in variety. Double
AATiite Bockets, Delphiniums in variety and Spanish
Irises galore, AA''a]ter T. AVare (yeUow), Chrysolora (golden),
Snow Queen and Sweetheart (white and yellow) being
among the best. Paeonia lutea, the yellow Tree Pseouy,
Heucheras, Iris spuria. AA'^ahlenbergia ^dncseflora and
Betonica grandiflora robusta were other notable plants.
Messrs. Paul and Sons. The Old Nurseries, Cheshunt,
had a beautiful table of Roses. Burning Bush (crimson),
Mme. Segond Weber, Lady Pirrie, Naiad (blush, with
orange anthers, a new Hybrid Briar of huge size and
informality). Lemon Pillar (new Noisette). Duchess of
AA'ellington and Mme, Kavary were among the best in
an excellent lot. Mme. Edouard Herriot was also
charming.
Messrs. G and A. Clark, Limited, Dover, displayed
Poppies, Pseonies, Larkspurs, Gaillardias and other hardy
flowers.
336
THE GARDEN.
[June 27, 1914
Messrs. Thomson and Charman. Bushey, Herts, had
excellent groups of Poppies, Pfeonies, Geums, Lupines-
and other good hardy things. Paeonia lutea splendcns
is of a rich colden hue, with distinctly lobcd leaves.
Geum Mrs. Bradshaw (scarlet) and Linum arboreuni
(yellow) were also pood.
Messrs. Stuart Low and Co.. Enfield, showed some
excellent vases of Carnations, Gorgeous, Princess Juliana,
Baroness de Brienen and Princess of Wales oeinp excellent.
Good Roses from this firm included Liberty, Ilayon
d'Or, Lady Hilhnpdon, Mrs. Charles E. Kussell (deep
rose pink of good form). Chateau de CIos Yougeot (deepest
crimson) and Lady Pirrie, all being very charming.
Paionies from Messr.<^. Kelway, Langport, were extra-
ordinarily fine. Queen Alexandra (single white), Cendril-
lion (rose), Orby (crimson), Dorothy Kelway (rose) and
Sir T. J. Lipton (crimson, i^ith gold anthers) were very
good. The Delphiniums from this firm were also excellent.
Dusky Monarch (lovely mauve and blue) and James
William Elelway (an improved King of Delphiniums)
were among the best.
Mr Amos Perry, Enfield, showed a great bank of Poppies,
including Perry's Blush, Perry's White and The Kint^
(a glorious bit of colour). Thalictrum aquilegifolium
eompactum, Abutilon \'itifolium album and Irises were
very finely displayed.
Messrs. Bunyard. jMaidstone, had a good display ol
Pffionic:, of which Duche<;se de Nemnurs (fine white) was
onfi of the best.
MesoTs. Blackmore and Langdon, Bath, showed .'^ome
cxcollent Delphiniums. Henri Moissan (rich purple),
Walter T. Ware (purple, white eye) and Mrs. A. J. Watson
(deep mauve) were amonc the best. Begonia semper-
Horens virginalis was also fine.
Messrs. T. S Ware, Limited, Feltham, showed Pseonies,
Uaillardias, Peach-leaved Campanulas. Iris ochroleuca,
Delphiniums and Achillea alpina in goodly numbers,
tlie whole making a fine display.
Achillea King Alfred, said to be a cross between A.
tomentosa and A. Kelleri, is very free-flowering. It ha."-
primrose yellow flower-heads in abundance. It was
sho-wn bv Rtr. W. Miller.
Mr. Elisha Hicks. Twyford, had some good Rose=,
.Mrs G. Norwood (pink), Princess Mary (Hybrid Tea,
single crimson, very fine) and Mis. Charles Reed (blush)
being notable flowers.
Messrs. F. Smith and Co., Woodbridge, fllled a lengthy
piece of tabling with Poppies, Lupines, Anchusas.
Heucheras. Gaillardias, Delphiniums and other £how>-
hardy flowers.
Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Chelsea, had a fine
grouping of Ela?ocarpus reticulatus. a beautiful white-
flowered Australian evergreen shrub. The flowers are
drooping, bell-«haped and minutely fringed.
Messrs. H . H . Bath , Wisbech , had a showy lot of Peeonies,
Solfaterra (white and cream), La Fiancee (white), Marshal
Oyama (pink, gold anthers) and Her Grace (full double
pink) b'.ing excellent. Spanish -Irises were very fine.
Messrs. Piper, Bayswater, displayed Saxifraca Cotyledon.
Wahlcnbergia vincpeflora, Mule Pinks, Iris Snow Queen,
Genista prostrata, Hypericum fragilis, Coiydalis tomen-
tosa, Acantholimon venustum and Dianthus Atldnsonii.
which were very beautiful.
Messrs. Laxton, Bedford, had some excellent vases
of the fragrant pink-fiowered Carnation Bedford Belle.
It is a most charming flower.
Mr. G. W. Piper, Uekfield, Sussex, had a delightful
lot of the new Rose J. F. Barry. It is one of the Pernetiana
group, quite hardy, richly perfumed, golden, with white
outer petals ; a most charming and free-flowering variety.
Mr, Charles Blick. Hayes, Kent, displayed some excel-
lent Carnations, Charles Blick (the pure white Malmaison).
Salome (fancy). Scarlet Glow (very fine) and Cecilia
(yellow) being very fine. Hylda Blick (rich deep cerise)
was also fine.
Messrs. 11. Tucker and Sons, Oxford, had some charming
alpines on rockwork, Saxifraga cochlearis major, S. csesia,
S. tyrolensis, Wahlcnbergia saxicola, W. vdncseflora,
Onosma taurica, Primula littoniana, P. capitata, Cam-
panula cenisia alba. C. pulla. C. excisa, C. raddeana and
Silene alpestris grandiflora fiore pleno being some of the
most charming in a fine lot.
Messrs. Wills and Segar, South Kensington, had a
long table of white, blue and pink flowered Hydrangeas.
They were very fine examples.
Mr. G. Emthe, Keston, had a delightful lot of things,
of which Ozothamnus rosmarinifolius, Saxifraga tom-
beanensis, Silene alpestris grandiflora flore pleno, Saxifraga
valdensis, Moltkia petrcea and Geranium Traversii (pink,
with silvery foliage) were among the best. Bruckenthalia
spiculifolia (pink trusses on Heath-like stems) was very
charming.
The Lissadell Bulb Farm, Sligo, sent Primulas beesiana,
buUeyana, and the hybrids Alannah and Asthore (bullcyana
X beesiana), diff^ering in the shades of red and orange.
Messrs. John Waterer, Sons and Crisp, Limited, Twyford,
liad some beautiful alpines. Genista humifusa, Potentilla
nitida alba, Lewisia Howellii and Trollius yunnanense
were excellent. Lewisia rcdiviva was also on view. A flue
table of herbaceous plants was also displayed.
Mr. Walter Easlea. Eastwood, had a few choice Roses,
Cherry Page being very charming. Rosa Moyesii from
China was also noted.
Messrs. George Jackman and Sons, Woking, had a
lovely grouping of Pink Elsie, a pink-flowered variety
with crimson base. A large exhibit of herbaceous flowers
also came from this firm.
Mr. Engelmann showed Carnations in his usual style.
Mr. G. Ferguson, Weybridge, had a fine table of Del-
phiniums, his mauve-coloured Mrs. Bernard Crisp being
excellent.
Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond, had a table of alpine
and hardy plants arranged on rockwork.
Mr. Maurice Prichard showed Iris spuria, Hcmerocallis
luteola, Lavatera Olbia, Wahlcnbergia vincEeflora and
other good flowers.
A superb gathering of Sweet Peas from Mr. James
Box attracted much attention. They were very finely
gro\vn.
Roses from Messrs. Frank Cant and Co., Colchester,
were excellent, Diabolo (crimson), Irish Elegance,
Una (white) and Rayon d'Or were noticeably good.
Messrs. B. R. Cant and Co., Colchester, also showed
Roses, Cupid (a new bedding single pink-fiowered variety)
being very charming. Irish Glorj', Rayon d'Or and
Una (white) were also good. Irish Fireflame is a rich
coppery variety.
Messrs. H. B. May and Sons, Edmonton, showed a
group of Lantanas, Heliotropes and Fuchsias as standards,
also Verbenas in high excellence.
Mr, H. Burnett. Guernsey, had a lovely lot of Carna-
tions, including Scarlet Glow, Triumph, Carola, Mikado,
Mrs, Raphael, Marmion, Enchantress Supreme and ilrt.
Clodo, the last finely Clove-scented.
THE YORKSHIRE GALA.
Brilliant weather favoured the fifty-sixth Yorkshire
Flower Show and Gala, held on June 17 and the two day.s
following in Eootham Park, York. By a general con-
sensus of opinion the show w'as one of the finest in the
history of the society. The arrangements made by the
secretai-y and committee and the expeditious manner
in which the judging was completed left nothing to be
desired. The weather on the opening day was exception-
ally hot, and had it not been for the specially ventilated
marquee — which, by the way, covered an acre of ground
and was erected by Messrs. Piggott Brothers, London —
it is quite certain that the cut flowers would never have
stood as well as they did, to say nothing of tlie discomfiture
to visitors and exhibitors. The show must rank as the
finest from a floriU point of view. Never before do we
remember at Y'^ork such magnificent and richly coloured
banks of hardy flowers, Roses, Orchids, Carnations and
Sweet Peas,
Stove and Greehhotjse Plants.
The ornamental specimen foliage plants we always
expectto find at York, and Messrs. James Cj'pher and Sons,
Cheltenham, seem to have had an unusual run of luck
this year, for among other successes we noticed thai
this firm took first place in each of the following classes :
Class 8, for the best collection of plants and cut flower^
arranged for effect : Class 11, for three ornamental foliagi
plants ; Class 12, for three Crotons ; Class 15, for a table
of Orchids; Class 16, for twelve Orchids in bloom ; and
Class 17, for six Orchids in bloom. Competition in Class 1 ,
for a group of miscellaneous plants, is always a centre
of interest. This class was keenly cont&^tcd, and the
result was as follows : Fir.-^t prize (£20), Mr, J, Pickersgill ;
^econdprize(£15),M^. William A. Holmes: third prize (£121,
Messrs. R. Simpson and Son ; fourth prize (£10), HD. F. H.
Ward ; and fifth prize (£8), Mr. T. M. Fetch. The following
awards were also made :
Special large gold medal to Messrs; Cypher and Sons
for a group of slove and greenhouse plants.
Large gold medal to Messrs. Backhouse for Roses
and greenhouse flowers.
Large gold medal to Messrs. Mansell and Hatcher
for a superb collection of Orchids.
Gold medals to Messrs. Charlesworth and Co. for
Orchids, and Mr. R, C, de G, Vyner for Cacti.
Large silver medal to C. F. Simpson, Limited, for
floral designs and flower display.
Silver medal to Mr. H. N. Ellison for Ferns and Cacti.
Silver-gilt medals to Messrs. Batchelor and Sons for
rare Ferns, and Messrs. Peed and Son for Gloxinias
Rock Gardens and Herbaceous Flower.
Although the rock gardens make an imposing feature
at York, there is, nevertheless, no special class devoted
to this interesting phase of gardening. It is curious to
note that Class 2, for a group of hardy plants and flowers,
has come to be regarded as a class for rock gardens,
although the schedule does not say a word about rocks or
alpine plants. ]t is truly surprising to ohscT-vc the great
advances made in rock garden exhibits in the past few
years. The whole of one end of the spacious tent wa?
fllled with rock gardens, all of them beautifully arranged and
planted with flowering alpines. The grand old weather-
worn and often moss-grown stone from the Yorkshire
moors is in no small measure responsible for the delightful
e fleets produced. Messrs. Broadhead and Son had a
truly charming rock garden, through which ran the replica
of a dried-up bed of a mountain stream. Bold masses
of the Himalayan Cowslip, Primula sikkimensis and Saxi-
fraga Cotyledon pyramidalis created drifts of colour that
were perfectly in keeping \vith the well-arranged rock
garden. A large silver-gilt medal was awarded to this
exliibit.
As u.sual, Messrs. Backhouse and Son, Limited, York,
were well to the fore among the exhibitors of rock gardens.
A small stream trickled down between a rocky bank
into an informal Water Lily pool at the base. Hart's-
tongue and other hardy Ferns grew naturally among the
rocks on either side of a little stream. Ramondia pyrenaica .
alpine Pinks, hardy Primulas and Saxifrages in variety
were all shown in great profusion. This admirable rock
garden was awarded first prize in Class 2. Mr. S. Pickering,
Clifton, York, was second, but the arrangement was
rather formal, with a little fountain playing in the centre.
This exhibit was lacking in artistic touch, and the plants
were of a common type. Messrs. Artindalc and Son,
Nether Green, ShcflQeld. were third, but here herbaceous
plants formed the great feature — as, indeed, they should,
according to schedule. Mr. T. H. Gaunt, Parsley, Leeds,
was fourth with a very creditable exhibit of rock plants,
in which Lilium rubellum, Dianthus neglect us and
Androsaccs were sho\vn in grand form.
Mr. Clarence Elliott, Six Hills Nurserj', showed a number
of beautiful alpine flowers, for which "he secured a large
silver medal. Campanula pusilla Miss Willmott, with
a profusion of silver^' blue bells, was greatly admired.
Messrs Kent and Brydon, Darlington, were awarded
a large gold medal for a beautiful rock garden that was
a near approach to Nature. The interesting Meconopsis
panicnlatn. with reddish purple petals and golden anthers,
was well shown, as well as a number of rare Primulas
suitable for the rock garden.
Hardy flc^wers were to be seen on all sides. The tall
nnd stately spikes of Eremums robustus, mingled with
Verbascums and Delphiniums, made one of the features
of this great exhibition. Oriental Poppies, too, were
far more in evidence than usual. Princess Ena and
Jenny Mawson were shown in great numbers. Hardy
Lilies, again, were represented, and magnificent effcctii
were created with Lilium umbellatum.
Messrs. Wallace and Co., Coichester, had a beautifully
arranged group, with Heucheras and Erigerons in the
foreground and Delphiniums and Ercmuri in the centre.
A good number of hardy Lilies, including the beautiful
Lilium monadelphum szo\it2ianum and L. dauricuni
luteum, were admirably represented. Large gold medal.
The following medal awards were also made :
Gold medals to Messrs. R. H. Bath, Limited, for
PaK>nies ; and to Messrs. Kelway and Sons for Pa'onies.
Silver medals to Messrs. Rich and Co. for cut fiowers ;
Messrs. Godfrey and Son for Canterbury Bells : Messrs.
Longster and Son for herbaceous plants ; Mr. J. W. Miller
for hardy perennials; and Mr. W. R. Tanmer for Violas.
Larse "silver-gilt medals to Messrs. Dickson, Limited,
Chester, for cut flowers; Messrs. Gunn and Sons for
Phloxes: Mr. G. Yeld for Irises and hybrid* Lilies ;
Messrs. Blackmore and Langdon for Delphiniums ; and
Messrs. Cocker and Sons for herbaceous cut flowers.
Sweet Peas.
Messrs, E, W. King and Co., Coggeshall, Essex, struck
out with an entirely new arrangement wilh arches and
pillars. Visitors were able to walk in and around this
exhibit with ease. The varieties Hercules. Rosabelle
and Anglian Orange were perhaps the pick of a very wide
selection of varieties. Gold medal.
A gold medal was awarded to Messrs. Bobbies, Limited,
Dereham, for a representative collection of the betl
varieties, of good qunlity.
Messrs. Dobbic and Co., Edinburirh. had a grand lot,
which gained for them the high award of a large gold
medal. Orange-coloured varieties were conspicuous,
and included Thomas Stevenson. Edrom Beauty. In.^pector,
Dobbie*s Orange and Melba.
Messrs. Dickson and Son. Belfast, were awarded a gold
medal for a truly delightful lot of Sweet Peas.
A comprehensive collection was staged by Messrs.
Bide, Farnhani. Phyllis Bide (oranne) and Kathleen
(crimson) were conspicuous in a very fine lot. for which
a gold medal was awarded.
Miss Hemus was aw^arded a silver-gilt medal for a
collection of Sweet Peas.
Groups of Vegetables.
Messrs Sutton and Sons were deservedly awarded
a large gold medal for an exquisite collection of flowers
and vegetables of excellent quality and perfect arrangement.
The Melons were remarkably good, especially the varieties
Universal, Emerald Green and King George.
A large gold medal was also awarded to Messrs, E,
Webb and Sons, Wordsley, Stourbridge, for an exhibit
comprising Begonias, Calceolarias, Gloxinias. Schizan-
thiises. Primulas, Sweet Peas, RIelons, Tomatoes, Cucum-
bers and other vegetables.
Messrs, Carter and Co., Raynes Park, staged one of the
most attractive exhibits of vegetables and fiowers that
we have seen from this well-known firm. The produce
was of the finest quality, and a large gold medal was
deservedly awarded.
Carnations and Roses.
Messrs, Y''oung and Co. were successful in gaining a
gold medal for a superb lot of Perpetual-flowering Car-
nations, which were staged in a masterful way.
In Mr. A. F. Dutton';: gold medal collection from Iver.
Bucks, we noted Mrs. C. F Raphael and Marmion, two
of the best Perpetual Malmaisons in cultivation.
Messrs, W. Cutbush and Son, Highgate, Loudon, arc
to be complimented on the perfect arrangement of their
large gold medal exhibit of Carnations, Hydrangeas
and weeping standard Roses.
A silver medal was awarded to Jtr, G. Prince for a
choice lot of Roses, in which Juliet and Mmo, Ravar>'
were shown in splendid form.
In Class 30, for a decorative table of Roses in pots
and cut blooms, Messrs. W. and J. Browu were first, and
gained a large silver-gilt medal for a grand lot, which,
however, did not stand the heat of the day very well :
neither were they labelled, Mr. G. Prince, Oxford, was
second, and his magnificent blooms of Juliet came in for
a great deal of admiration.
For a collection of Roses grouped for effect, Mr. W.
Todd, York, was first, and his ramblers were very fine.
The following awards were also made :
Large silver-gilt medals to Messrs, Stuart Low and
Co. for Perpetual-flowering Carnations ; and Messrs.
W. and J. Brown for Roses.
Siher-gilt medals to Mr. C. Engelmann for Carnations ;
Mr. W. LawTcnson for Carnations ; and Messrs. Artindule
and Son for Violas and Carnations.
A first-class cerliflcate of merit for new seedling Roses
was granted to the Rev, J. H. Pcmberton,
^^^^.r^s^
GARDEN.!
,X 1,) ^
No. 2224.— Vol. LXXVIII.
July 4, 1914.
NOTES OF THE W
K.
The National Rose Society's Show. — We would
temind our readers that the Rose show of the year is
to be held, under the patronage of Queen Alexandra
and the auspices of the National Rose Society, on
Tuesday, July 7, from noon until 7 p.m. It will,
as usual, be at the Royal Botanic Society's Gardens,
Regent's Park, London, N.W.
The Golden Heather. — Tliere are many varie-
;ies of our common Ling (Calluna vulgaris),'
ranging from loose, straggling sorts to some of,
y Messrs. Artindale and Sons, Sheffield.
THE NEW ERIGERON ASA GRAY.
it is hoped the beginner may be helped so that he
may be enabled to win prizes this year. Of course,
as to cultural hints, he has had to rely upon past
notes, as the exhibitions are now upon us, and by
the time these lines are in print the City of London
Rose Society will be holding its second exhibition
at the Cannon Street Hotel. I would urge all who
wish to become exhibitors to join the National
Rose Society, and this can be done at once by
writing to Mr. E. Mawley, Rosebank, Berk-
hamsted, who will then send various books and
pamphlets that will be of much value to the
exhibitor.
To be a successful exhibitor, one must possess a
goodly number of the exhibition varieties. Such
varieties are listed in the National Rose Society's
schedule. There is vet time to attend to various
details for the shows that will occur later in July.
A most important detail is that of disbudding.
This is an operation requiring much judgment.
Generally, the central bud on a shoot is retained,
and all the others removed as soon as they are of
the size of small peas, and even earlier ; but one
must be careful the central bud is perfect and
not damaged by frost or insect foe, otherwise this
bud should be removed and one of the best of
the side buds retained. The wood-buds, i.e.,
those growths that start out below the bud, should
be rubbed out also, so that all the strength of the
shoot can be concentrated on the one bud. A
plant should not be burdened TOth too many
shoots. Three or four, or at most five, are ample.
Feeding the buds may still be carried out. Good
liquid manure, made from cow-
manure and soot or from sheep-
manure, is as good as anything ;
but a good, quick-acting stim^llant,
such as guano, wiU go a long way
to improve the quality of the
blooms.
A number of shades should be
procured ready to place over the
blooms three or four days prior to
the show. If a cheap article is
desired, what are known as Zulu
straw hats, securely fastened on to
a Bamboo cane, answer very well,
although there are proper shades
to be had of the horticultural
sundriesmen.
Some of the thin and pointed
Roses, i.e., those not very double,
should be tied the day before the
show. This is done with a piece
of German wool. Allow the outer
petals to be free, but tie the heart
of the bloom when in its young
stage, and when quite dry. Instead
of tying the wool in a knot, give
it two turns and leave the ends
long ; then it may be tightened if
necessary- or released easily. These
ties are kept on the blooms until
the last moment.
Boxes must all be in readiness,
and some nice green moss obtained
to show off the blooms to the
best advantage. Proper exhibition
tubes are essential, those known
as the " Foster " or " West " being
excellent. A Rose always looks
best when well raised above the
moss. So many beginners seem
to ignore this detail. I have seen
beautiful Roses cut with short
stems and dumped down on the moss, which quite
spoilt them, although, perhaps, their quality was
superior to those that gained the first prize. A
good deep lid should belong to each show box, and
be careful that the blooms are put down low enough
to escape injury by the lid. The flowers can be
arranged properly when at the show.
When to Cut Blooms. — As to when the bloom?
should be cut, I would advocate late in the evening
preceding rather than in the early morning of the
show day. There are various reasons for this,
one being that in the early morning most blooms
look fresh, and one may be deceived when too late.
Allow the blooms to have plenty of water. I
would prefer to take round with me a large jar lull
of water and place the blooms therein immediately
they are cut, allowing them to remain in the jar,
I
July 4, 1914]
THE GARDEN.
341
in a cool room or cellar, as long as possible before
transferring them to the boxes. Roses keep much
better, even those cut for the rooms, when given
plenty of water and when cut late in the evening.
Referring again to the boxes, there is a standard
of size set up by all societies affiliated to the
National Rose Society.
A good deep box for spare flowers should be
taken to the show. This ought to contain a good
number of young flowers, for it is surprising how
quickly the blooms develop, and often those we
judge the best overnight fail at the last moment.
Read carefully the standard of an ideal exhibition
bloom as laid down by the National Rose Society
in its schedule, and also read the authorised
rules for judging as defined by the same society.
This will give the exhibitor a good idea of the
standard to aim at. Upon the journey to the show,
keep a watchful eye on your boxes. Somehow the
railway porter likes to carry Rose boxes upside
down, so that the water trickles
down his neck, a detail that may
tend to keep him cool, but will be
fatal to the Roses.
Classes to Show In.— In your
first attempt at showing, do not aim
too high ; that is, enter for six
blooms before you strive to win the
prize for twelve. Be careful to have
the names correctly placed, and in
staging put the largest blooms in the
back row and the smallest in front.
When practicable, place a pale Rose
next to one of a deeper colour, but
do not exclude a good specimen on
this accovmt. Quality will tell with
the judges, not huge, coarse blooms,
but those having beauty of form and
finish and purity of colour. If you
enter in two or three classes and find
upon arrival at the show your blooms
are inferior to those of your com-
petitors, concentrate upon one class
only, and put in your best blooms,
when you may get a look in, whereas,
if all the classes are attempted, you
may fail in all. Be careful to fill
the tubes with water as soon as you
arrive at the show. I have seen
lovely blooms ruined by want of
water which is either lost on the
journey or has been absorbed by the
flowers.
"Dressing" Blooms. — Do not
.be tempted to alter the character
of a bloom. What is known as
" dressing" a bloom is rightly condemned by the
judges. This takes the form of turning the petals
back to make them appear larger, and some of our
noted growers are great offenders in this respect.
When you have arranged the blooms to your
satisfaction, cover them with the lid, merely tilting
it a little in front to admit air, and keep it thus
until ordered to remove it. Ties are kept on the
blooms until the time when the bell rings to depart
from the tent. Do not fail to remove the ties, as
judges are not allowed to do so, and this would
militate against your success. Take notes carefully
of Roses that gain special medals as best blooms in
the show, as generally such sorts are worth growing
in quantity for exhibition. Finally, do not
be discouraged if you do not win a prize. Take
your beating manfully and make a resolve to grow
more and give greater attention in the future, when
yOu will find success will come. Danecroft.
VIOLAS AND VIOLETTAS
FOR THE ROCK GARDEN.
IF there could be found no valid excuse for
importing all the flower beauty of the Viola
into the rock garden — much of it, indeed,
would be better accommodated elsewhere
— there is every reason for introducing
that phase of it which it is calculated
would show to greater advantage there than
in other parts of the garden. In saying this
one has particularly in mind the exquisite beauty
and charm of the Violettas, that intermediate
group which comes between the larger Tufted
Pansies (Violas) and others like comuta and its
varieties. Of these it may be safely urged that
they are peculiarly adapted for the rock garden,
more perhaps because of the dainty grace and
lowly stature with which they are endowed.
a considerable colour range, they are calculated
to pleace a large number who do not judge beauty
by size alone. Another item of importance in
regard to these plants — ^it may also be said of
V. comuta and others — is that they flower long
and continuously, affording a wealth of cool,
fresh-looking blossoms long after the usual occu-
pants of the rock garden are past and gone, and
in that way making their presence felt in no
uncertain degree.
Apart from the Violettas, which are a host
in themselves, are others which are even more
weaJth-affording in beauty and floriferousness,
although they are less dwarf, and it may be less
dainty-looking also. I refer more particularly to
such as V. gracilis, V. comuta and their varieties,
than which perhaps none are better suited to the
purpose one has in mind. The rich colour masses
these afford, no pen-picture could ever portray.
They are essentially garden plants, and those
A SEEDLING VIOLA IN A SMALL ROCK GARDEN.
and which would appear to fit them for association
with many choice things.
Then, of course, they are distinctly of the
perennial class, an invaluable attribute that
should go a long way to making these flowers
more popular for the purpose one has in mind.
It may as truly be urged, of course, that other
types of Violas are strictly perennial, and quite
suited to the rock garden also. What I particularly
desire to point out, however, is the value of the
Violettas when permanently planted, and if left
alone for two, or it may be three, years they
will have had an opportunity of fully demonstrating
their worth. So much can scarcely be said of
them if it is found necessary to disturb them each
year, since in a single season only a tithe of their
flower beauty will have been revealed. Veritable
carpeters of the soil, though smaller in growth
than some, miniature in blossom and embracing
who would see them at their best must see them
within the limits of the garden. These, like the
Violettas, may go on for several years, and give
a good account of themselves each successive
year. Some, indeed, after five or six years in one
position, showed but little - sign of deterioration,
the plants meanwhile affording a carpet of fresh
green growth long enriched and ornamented
by flowers. To urge the hardiness of plants
with such durative powers as this might appear
superfluous, yet hardiness and longevity combined
are among their greater assets.
To those who would embrace varieties of each
of these I would draw attention to the following :
Of the comuta class, alba, pallida, alba compacta.
Blue Gem and purpurea are all worthy of con-
sideration. Candidly, if I were restricted to one
variety of this set, the last would certainly be
first — first, because of the rich imperial purple
342
shade, which in my opinion places it hrad and
shoulders above thn rest ; and first again, because
of the good lesson I learnt from my flowor-loving
daughter, who, charmed with its rich colour,
culled the blossoms with their 6-inch-long stalks,
and, inserting them with their own leafy stems
in. white china bowls, produced a singularly beauti-
ful effect. It is the only one of the comuta class
that in my opinion is capable of such high ornament
in the garden and the home ; hence it should
have greater claims upon those who seek the dual
services of so good a plant. In the V. gracilis
set, apart from the excellent typical kind, which
is worthy of all thought, the varieties Purple
Robe, lutea and sulphurea should be mentioned,
interest centring rotmd the latter, whUe great flower
beauty and richness dominates the other two.
A small set of the Violettas should include
Rock Blue, Rock Yellow, Purity, Sweetness (white,
with yellow eye), Miss G. Jekyll (yellow and
THE GARDEN.
plants drop their seeds in the happiest of places,
and if possible, because of the new picturt-s such
things create, they should be left to display their
worth. E. H. Jenkins.
[July 4, 1914.
SOME LITTLE-KNOWN
CLIMBERS.
^THIONEMA WARLEY HYBRID.
The ^thionemas, extremely dainty plants.
s
THE SCHIZOPHRAGMAS.
CHIZOPHRAGMA is an Eastern genus of
Saxifragaceffi closely allied to Hydrangea,
the chief difference between the two
genera, from a horticultural point of view,
being noticeable in the sterile flowers.
In Hydrangea each sterile flower is made
primrose), Lavinia (lavender), Eileen (deep blue,
yeUow eye), Robbie Jenkins (perfect in form, white,
flushed yellow, quite one of the smallest), Diana
(primrose) and Gold Crest (a very profuse bloomer).
Cultivation. — In this direction the plants ask
for nothing more than a moderately deep and
good loamy soil, an item of greater importance
being, perhaps, a cool rooting medium, though
even here they are less exacting than some. In
any case the higiter, drier and sunnier positions
of the rock garden are places to avoid, while
carpeting the flatter places in the line of vision
where the flowers would show to advantage.
In the case of the cornuta and gracilis sections,
compactness of growth may be secured by annual
autumn pruning, which encourages, as it also
ensures, basal growth of increased vigour. This
is important. In addition, a little rich soil mulch
will also assist. Occasionally some of these
somewhat resembling a refined Iberis. are extremely
useful and decorative subjects for hot, sunny posi-
tions in the rock or wall garden, though without
perfect drainage and very gritty soil they are up cf four bracts, whereas in Schizophragma one
inclined to go off during the winter. One of the bract only appears with each sterile flower. For
most startling novelties in this connection is to many years S. hydrangeoides was confused with
be found in the hybrid referred to at the head \ Hydrangea petiolaris, and plants obtained vmder
of this note, a reproduction of which appears the former name almost invjiriably proved to
below, showing a colony growing in Miss be the latter. Now, however, two species of
Willmott's lovely garden at Warley Place. The | Schizophragma may be procured, thanks to Messrs.
plant originated as a seedling from JE. armenum, j Veitch and Mr. E. H. Wilson, the latter gentleman
and forms a dense, compact bush 6 inches to having collected and forwarded seeds totheVeitchian
firm about twelve or thirteen years
ago. The two species are S. hydran-
geoides and S. integrifolia. The
former species was described in 1835
by Siebold and Zuccarini in the
" Flora Japonica," page 58, t. 26. On
several occasions it has been included
in the botanical collections of both
Chinese and Japanese travellers.
Oldham, for instance, obtained speci-
mens in Nagasaki as long ago as 1862.
Seeds of the true plant have also
fotmd theirway to this coimtryearlier
than those forwarded by Mr. Wilson,
for ten years ago a good-sized plant
existed in the late Mr. Chambers'
garden at Haslemere, In habit it
bears a close resemblance to Hydran-
gea petiolaris, for it has similar bright
brown, scandent branches which
climb by means of aerial roots, and
the leaves are somewhat similar in
shape. They are broadly ovate or, at
times, almost cordate, with coarsely
toothed margins, and are often from
5 inches to 7 inches long and 4 inches
or more wide. They are hairy on both
surfaces, particularly on the veins.
The flowers appear in large, terminal
corymbs, an indefinite number of
fertile flowers being intermixed with
a few sterile blossoms, consisting of
one bract only. The bracts are white,
I inch to i§ inches long, and
three-quarters of an inch to i inch
wide.
S. integrifolia is a native of China. It was
collected by Professor A. Henry in Szechuan, and
was figured and described in Hooker's " Icones
Plantarum," t. 1934, in 1890. Seeds were
originally introduced to this country by Mr.
Wilson during his first visit to China. Like the
older plant, it has scandent branches, which bear
aerial roots after the manner of the Ivy. It,
however, differs widely in other respects. The leaves
are ovate or ovate-lanceolate, often glabrous, but
sometimes bearing a few scattered hairs on the
under surface. The larger leaves are up to 8 inches
or 9 inches in length and 4 inches wide.
Light, well-drained loamy soil contaming leaf-
mould appears to suit both pizmts, and they grow
well against walls, on the upturned roots of trees, or
on tree trtmks. As they become better known they
will doubtless find favour for planting against walls
on account of the self-clinging habit. W. D.
.SITHIONEMA WARLEY HYBRID, A BEAUTIFUL ROCK PLANT WITH RICH ROSE-PINK FLOWERS.
9 inches in height, producing from mid-April
immense quantities of flowers of a deep pink
colour, which lasts well into Jtme. So rich is
the colouring of the flowers and so compact the
habit that at first sight it suggests Daphne Cneorum,
and is by far the best of the family, beautiful
as many of them are. As the name indicates,
this charming plant was raised by Miss Willmott
at Warley, and has since received the Royal
Horticultural Society's award of merit. No
more showy plant could be found for a sunny
spot in the rock garden or retaining wall than
,E. Warley Hybrid, and, given a free, gritty root-
run and slight protection against winter damp,
should the season be a wet one, there is no difficulty
in its cultivation. Propagation is readily effected
by cuttings, and the greatest effect is obtained
by grouping the plants as seen in the illustra-
tion. Reginald F. Malby.
Supplement to THE GARDEN, July 4, igi4.
ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S
SUMMER SHOW.
A S we go to press the great summer
y\ show of the' Royal Horti-
/ % cultural Society is being held,
/ % by kind permission of Mary
* *. Countess of Ilchester, in the
charming grounds of Holland
House, Kensington. We understand that
visitors to the Show will be admitted to
thQ private gardens at Holland House each
day on payment of is., the proceeds to
go to charities. Most of the exhibits
are of exceptionally good quality, Roses,
Sweet Peas, Orchids, hardy flowers and
trees ,and shrubs being dominant features.
Here,h9.ve been gathered together all that
is, best; from our British gardens and
nurseries, and it is to be hoped that the
public will visit the show in their thousands,
and so compensate the Council and the
various committees for their labours
in bringing together so magnificent a
display. Naturally, this show is of a
different character to that held at Chelsea
earlier in the year, but it is none the less
interesting. An exhibit that everyone
ought to see is that arranged by Messrs.
R. Wallace and Co., where Japanese
Irises border a natural-looking pool of
clear water. We have no hesitation
in saying that never before have these
beautiful Irises been shown in better
condition in this country, and when we
remember that entire plants have been
lifted and transplanted from Colchester
to Kensington, we do not think any praise
is too high. To the Council and the various
officials of the Society we wish to tender
our thanks for their unfailing courtesy
and help freely given to enable us to
report at least the greater portion of the
show.
HERBACEOUS PLANTS,
There is now on view in the historic grounds of
Holland House a display of herbaceous flowers
and hardy flower gardening of overwhelming
beauty, one, while rich in flower colour, is more
surpassingly rich in high cultural excellence and
that suggestiveuess which in outdoor gardening is
of the greatest service. In this latter our readers
will reahse the finger-post, and, following it, make
of their gardens things of pleasure and delight.
In no department is this more true than in the Iris
and water garden arranged by Messrs. Wallace and
Co., Colchester, at the left of the great tent near
the entrance. Here our readers will quickly find
a group of a thousand or more square feet of
sumptuous beauty arranged in the best of taste.
We have, indeed, never seen the great water-loving
Irises of Japan displayed more finely, never in
such profusion or with flowers of such magnificent
proportions. In colour variety there is equal rich-
ness— white, purple, violet and rose in sells, or
these in combination, which defy description.
Certainly the gem of the whole is Morning Mist, a
study in white and blue, the flowers of Oriental
splendour reaching to dinner-plate proportions. It is
in every way a magnificent plant. Rosy Dawn,
Mikado (white, rosy lines). Distant Mountain (white,
violet veins and rosy standards) and Recumbent
Dragon (purple) are among those to be noted.
The water portion is approached by stone steps,
with Spirasa palmata, the newer Astilbes, Funkias,
Trollius chinense, T. pumila yunnanense, Rodgersias
and other good plants around. In fine, it is a
group of remarkable beauty, the like of which
we do not remember to have seen before.
At the other e.xtreme of the same tent Mr.
Amos Perry has a remarkable Delphinium group,
a family which he has largely made his own.
The flower-spikes, shown in their hundreds,
reveal superb cultural excellence, and, grouped
together in large blocks, are seen to advantage.
Mrs. Creighton (rich dark purp>, double), Lizzie
(fine pale blue single), Edric Kingscote (single
blue, white eye), Midas (iridescent blue), Evelyn
and King of Delphiniums are some of *he best.
In addition there is to be seen a fine ^l of the
newer Belladonna types, as Lamartine grandiflora
and Mrs. Brunton. Lilium Roezlii (refined
orange), Dianthus Napoleon III., with single
Dianthuses of sorts, Day Lilies and other Lilies,
are some of the more imposing things that must
be sought out in this fine group.
In this same tent Messrs. Carter and Co., Raynes
Park, have set up a superb water garden exhibit,
the dominant feature naturally being a fine
lot of Japanese Irises. These are arranged in
bold, informal groups — just that kind of thing
capable of f °t interpretation in the garden,
hence justifying exhibition work as a whole.
Of the more conspicuous of the Irises are
Albertino (white), Tokio (rose and white). Admira-
tion (a fine rich purple with white). Morning Mist
(bluish white — the greatest, from more than one
point of view, of all this race) and Yvette Guilbert
(purple, white veins^. "unkias, Adiantum pedatum,
Spir^as and BamL„3s either back the group
or margin the water, which in its turn is
delightfully ornamented by Water Lilies. The
grass turfed banks and the excellent execution
of the whole add both naturalness and charm.
Then, in a sort of annexe leading from the main
exhibit and in part revealed therefrom, are
Irises again, a nice lot of Bamboos in graceful
plumage, together with a fine central grouping
of Campanula persicifolia in blue and white.
An excellent arrangement worthy of a great
firm.
Then, in an opposite group in the same tent,
Messrs. Waterer, Son and Crisp, Bagshot and Twy-
ford, are setting up an excellent mixed arrange-
ment of herbaceous and rockwork plants, the whole
forming a pretty and effective group. In this
we noted rich masses of Larkspurs, Gaillardias,
Primula littoniana, Wahlenbergia vincaeflora, Pent-
stemons. Campanula puUoides and a great variety
of plants suited to the rock garden.
Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, Kent, will be found
showing an interesting variety of alpines, shrubs
and herbaceous flowers. His finer things are
Abelia floribunda, Crinodendron Hookeri (also
known as Tricuspidaria lanceolata and T. depen"
dens — the latter, we believe, erroneously), Rhodo^
dendrons intricatum and camelliaeflorum, Ononis
fruticosa, rare and beautiful in rose pea-shaped
flowers ; together with Carpenteria californica,
Andromeda speciosa, Lilium philadelphicum,
L. pomponium, L. Martagon G. F. Wilson, L.
Willmottiae, Orchis foliosa and a great variety
of alpines. Heaths are very charming, while
Edelweiss, Genista and the smaller of the rock-
loving Hvpericums are also very beautiful.
Messrs. William Cutbush and Sons, Highgate,
N., are showing a fine lot of Larkspurs, Bamboos
and Liliums in variety. Phloxes, Romneya
Coulteri and such things as Campanulas are
being well shown.
Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garde^ and
Taplow, will be found displaying a very fine collec-
tion of Delphiniums and Enghsh Irises, the latter
constituting a good succession to the Spanish
Irises of mid-June. These are very fine, their
broad petals (falls) rendering them highly distinct.
Iris IfEvigata is also much in evidence. In addition
there may be seen a good array of Iris ochro-
leuca, together with Day Lilies, Ixias, Calochorti,
such Lilies as canadense, washingtonianum,
pardalinum, Roezlii and others.
Mr. James Box, Lindfield, Hayward's Heath, is
displaying in the Upper Tent a remarkable exliibit
of hardy flowers, of which cut herbaceous plants
and Water Lilies in pools are the most dominant
features. The group, of unusual formation, is
showing two sides at the entrance and exit of the
tent, and is composed chiefly of Delphiniums in
blue and violet, with a great mass of white Iris
laevigata in front and Spirsa palmata at the
sides. At right and left flanks are groups of
Bamboos bowing graceful plumes, while imme-
diately beneath are stands of Ne Plus Ultra
Gladioli mirroring both into fuller life. Centrally
placed is a pool, and herein are Water Lihes at
once beautiful and cooUng in effect. Gladiolus
America, G. Golden West and G. HaUeyi, with the
moisture-loving Primulas, are among those seen.
Phloxes of several groups are also well shown.
Messrs. G. and A. Clark, Limited, Dover, are
setting up a fine group of herbaceous plants,
notably Delphiniums, Astilbes, Japanese Irises,
Wahlenbergias and Ferns. Of the former. Rev.
E. LasceUes, Alake, Nubian (a very dark form)
and Queen of Spain (white and blue) are the more
important. Verbascum Warley Rose is also finely
displayed, and is certainly a good addition to this
group.
Messrs. Whitelegg and Page, Chislehurst, are
displaying a fine lot of Delphiniums in almost
endless variety and excellence. Wahlenbergia
vincajflora is also one of the fine plants to be noted
in their group.
Messrs. PhilUps and Taylor, Bracknell, Berks,
are arranging a fine exhibit of water gardening in
conjunction mth Water Lilies and other suitable
plants. In the latter section the newer .'Astilbes
find an important place, while about and around
are to be seen Juncus zebrina, Acorus japonica, Pen-
taderias, Sagittarias and quite a representative
Supplement to THE GARDEN, July 4, 1914.
display of the Marliac Water Lilies. The
exhibit is very charming, suggestive and educa-
tional.
Messrs. H. J. Jones, Limited, Lewisham, are
displaying herbaceous Phloxes in the highest
excellence, both in the cut state and in pot-
grown examples. The latter, indeed, are of
great garden value. They display height,
habit and those other particulars which are of
such inestimable value to the amateur. The
group, too, shows how these things can be hurried
along ; how with good, or, shall we say, intelligent
cultivation, they may be presented to view in the
exhibition tent quite worthy of the garden. The
best varieties — it is, of course, a question of
taste— are Ehzabeth Campbell, salmon and
white ; G. A. Strohlein, scarlet and crimson ;
Meteor, deep pink ; R. C. Pulling, deep pink,
a sport from the above ; Frau Ant. Buchner ;
Dr. Charcot, mauve ; and Baron van Dedem,
orange scarlet, which is perhaps one of the finest
and the best. The excellence of the exhibit
and its high decorative merit will, we think,
appeal to all.
MISCELLANEOUS STOVE AND
GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
Cannas and Zonal Pelargoniums are capitally
shown by Messrs. H. Cannell and Sons, Eynsford,
Kent. The former are always a briUiant feature
of this firm's displays, and, as usual, they are
represented by a most interesting series of varieties
and in the glorious colours for which these plants
are famous. Zonal Pelargoniums have for many
years been kept well to the front by this firm,
who have always exhibited large and handsome
bunches of all that is new and choice, and on
this occasion there is much to interest and please
in the splendid sorts set up for inspection.
Zonal Pelargoniums are also set up by Messrs.
Carter Page and Co., London Wall, E.C. This
display is quite good, and includes a capital
representation of the more popular and reliable
kinds.
Cannas in a mixed group are shown by Mr. A. H.
Cole, 3a6, Camberwell New Road, S.E. It is
pleasing to find these plants represented by another
firm. The sorts are good and the plants very
interesting.
Ferns and Geraniums from Mr. A. Donnithorne,
Ashbiirton, Devon, combine with Begonias to
make an attractive display. These are to be seen
in Tent No. i, where the combined effect is quite
pleasing.
Messrs. W. J. Godfrey and Son, Exmouth,
Devon, in addition to beautiful Campanulas
(Canterbury Bells), have a beautiful display
of all species of the Pelargonium and Solanums.
The Pelargoniums, which this firm have done
so much to develop, are highly attractive, and
they represent the various types in charming
fashion. The Solanums (Wendlandii), too, are
novel and pleasing.
Fuchsias and Zonal Pelargoniums are repre-
sented in fine form and condition by H. J. Jones'
Nurseries, Limited, Ryecroft Nursery, Lewisham,
S.E. Mr. Jones, who has done much to improve
the Zonal Pelargonium, is showing these richly
coloured flowers in excellent form and in capital
variety. He has many grand novelties of the
Paul Crampel type that show marked advance.
Of the newer Pelargoniums the following are note-
worthy : Mrs. R. C. PuUing (a giant white), Mrs. G.
Lovelock (crimson scarlet), D. B. Crane (bright
rose), Mrs. F. Ambrose (deep salmon self), Lottie
(rosy scarlet) and Fred GuUiver (orange red). These
are just a few of the good things, of which there
are many. Hybrids from Fuchsia triphylla are
beautiful, and of these there is now a most interest-
ing series, all deserving extended culture. The
colours of these flowers are now quite comprehen-
sive. This exhibit is arranged with a collection
of herbaceous Phloxes and beautiful Campanulas.
Hydrangeas in charming variety. Fuchsias and
Zonal Pelargoniums are weU shown by Mr. PhiUp
Ladds, Swanley Junction, Kent. This exhibitor,
as is his wonted custom, shows plants that are well
grown. Good culture is very noticeable both in
the character of the plants and in the quality of
the flowers, and they are set up in an attractive
way in Tent No. 7.
Five hundred species and varieties of stove and
greenhouse and British Ferns are exhibited in the
Large Tent by Messrs. H. B. May and Sons,
Limited, Dyson's Road Nurseries, Upper Edmonton,
London. This is a truly beautiful display, such as
we are always accustomed to see put up by this
firm of Fern specialists. Taste in arrangement
and quality of the various plants is paramount in
this exhibit, and there is much to interest and
please the Fern-lover and others. Noteworthy
examples are Polypodium Vidgeri, P. Knightae,
P. mandaianum, Davallia brasihense, D. fijiensis,
D. Veitchii, Adiantum Veitchii, A. grossum, A.
farleyense, Lygodium japonicum (a fine specimen,
12 feet in height), Gymnogramma superba (golden),
G. Mayii (silver) and a host of remarkably
beautiful examples of other species.
Messrs. J. Hill and Son, Lower Edmonton, have
a superb group of stove and greenhouse Ferns
arranged in the Large Tent that is a source of con-
siderable pleasure to the thousands visiting this
great show. There are more than two hundred
species and varieties representing all the better
well-known subjects, and the group leaves nothing
to be desired. Remarkable examples of Tree
Ferns and Cibotium Schiedei, Dicksonia squar-
rosa, Cyathea dealbata, a unique specimen of
Platycerium grande (the Stag's-horn Fern), Poly-
podium mandaianum, Dicksonia Barometz, Poly-
podium quercifolium (a grand specimen) and
numerous Davallias in endless varieties are
included. The group is edged with beautiful
examples of tinted Adiantums in charming variety.
At the south-east corner of the Large Tent Messrs.
W. Cutbush and Sons, Highgate, London, N.,
have a large group of a comprehensive character.
Cannas are bright and inspiring, and there are
masses of dwarf baby Roses and Carnations in
charming variety. This group is finished off
pleasingly with Ferns and other dainty subjects.
A large group of stove and greenhouse plants
is set up by Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond, Surrey,
embracing a great variety of most interesting
subjects. Among the more noteworthy in this
charming group are the following : Alocasias,
Anthuriums, Marantas, Crotons, DracaBnas, Aralias,
Nertera depressa (the Coral Plant), Caladiums and
a diverse variety of other beautiful foliage. All
combme to make a display worthy of this firm.
Mr. Vincent Slade, Taunton, has a number of
handsome bunches of Zonal Pelargoniums set up
in Tent No. r. This grower has for many years
devoted attention to these richly coloured subjects,
and his exhibit on this occasion is just what we
might reasonably expect of him.
The Right Hon. Colonel Mark Lockwood, M.P.
(gardener, Mr. G. Cradduck), Romford, makes a
most attractive exhibit of well-grown Fuchsias.
The displays from this source are always very
pleasing, and the character of this exhibit is dis-
tinctly beautiful and meritorious.
Streptocarpus in Tent No. 7 and C'.Iadiums
in Tent No. 6 from Messrs. John Peed and Son,
West Norwood, S.E., are noteworthy exhibits in
this great show. The former subject is represented
by weU-grown plants of a beautiful strain, and the
latter are, as usual, shown in all their glory of rich
and varied colourings. The tropical weather
now being experienced suits these plants splendidly,
and there is little risk of the plants sufiering on
this account. The varieties are very interesting
and the foliage is well coloured.
BEGONIAS AND GLOXINIAS.
The beautiful exhibits of Messrs. Blackmore
and Langdon, Twerton-on-Avon, Bath, are al^vays
eagerly sought after by lovers of the tubergus-
rooted Begonias, as this firm's representation
of this gorgeous subject never fails to attract. The
blooms are to be seen in the highest degree of
good culture, and such double varieties as Lady
Carew (a lovely rose). Princess Victoria ^salmon
pink). Lady Cromer, Empress Marie (white), Mrs.
James Reid, Mr. James Douglas, Lood Methuen
(brilliant scarlet), Violet Langdon (a beautiful
flesh pink). Rose Superbe (rose of a pale tone)
and many other equally charming varieties go
to make an exhibit that well maintains the
reputation of this well-known firm.
Begonias and Gloxinias are set up in attractive
fashion by Mr. A. GwiUim, Sidcup, Kent. This
grower has a beautiful collection of the better-known
named varieties, the more notable sorts being
Sidcup Beauty, Lady Cromer, Miss Ada Britten,
Mrs. H. Harris and Mrs. J. C. Gwillim.
A magnificent table group of Begonias from
Messrs. Thomas S. Ware and Co., Feltham,
attracts considerable attention, both on account
of its quality and its representative character.
This firm have done much to develop this truly
gorgeous subject, and never fail to set up an exhibit
that worthily maintains their position as one of
the leading speciaUsts. The plants are flowering
freely and are carrying blooms showing the highest
cultural skill. A few of the better sorts in this
collection are the following : Mrs. Maurice Pope
(charming salmon rose). King George V. (rich
salmon of the highest quality). Countess of Dart-
mouth (cream, edged and flaked rose), Gladys
Valentine (pale salmon), Hon. Mrs. Ronald
Greville (a beautiful cream), Mrs. Andrew Tweedie
(another excellent cream-coloured sort), Hon.
Mrs. Maurice Glyn (apricot) and a superb rich
salmon of a specially attractive kind named
Duchess of Marlborough. Space prevents us
mentioning more than a tithe of the good things
in this exhibit.
Messrs. Webb and Sons, Wordsley, Stourbridge,
as usual, have made a charming display in Tent
No. 3. Part of their exhibit comprises Begonias
and Gloxinias, and they invariably set up their
display in novel and pleasing fashion. This
firm's strains of these two subjects are well known
for their excellent quality, and they are beautifully
exemplified in the exhibits made on the present
occasion. Exhibitors generally might learn much
from the novel methods of staging observed by
this firm, in which the different subjects arc seen
at their best.
Messrs. James Carter and Co., Raynes Park,
London, S.W., have set up Begonias in Tent
No. 3, with many other interesting greenhouse
plants. They represent a good strain, and are
freely flowered.
Supplement to XHE GARDEN, July 4, 1914.
Begonias as shown by Mr. A. H. Cole, 326,
Camberwell New Road, S.E., are a pleasing feature.
Good, free-flowering kinds are shown, which,
together with Ceinnas, make an attractive display.
Mr.^A. Donnithorne, Ashburton, Devon, has
made an exhibit in which Begonias play an impor-
tant part. They are represented by an interesting
series^of plants that show good culture.
In No. I Tent an exhibit of Begonias from Mr.
W. S. Edwardson, Elsdon, Sidcup, calls for special
notice. As an initial effort this display is quite
good. Good culture and an interesting series
of varieties and types all contribute to make the
display highly meritorious. The plants are very
fresh and clean.
Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Bush Hill Park,
Enfield, Middlesex, have a beautiful table group
of double and single flowered Begonias, in which
the former very largely preponderate. The
plants exhibit high cultural skill, and embrace
colours that are charmingly diverse. A few of
the better doubles are Sir Garnet (fine deep
crimson), King George V., Lady Cromer, Snowdrop
(chaste white), Hon. Mrs. M. Glyn (rich orange
terra-cotta) and Margaret Gwillim (yellow).
ORCHIDS.
Messrs. Flory and Black, Slough, are showing
an immense bank of highly coloured Orchids.
Cattleyas form the leading feature of the group,
but the gem of the exhibit is seen in the magnificent
little batch of Disa Luna. About four dozen
plants are shown, all in the picture of health.
This, however, is the most easily grown variety of
the genus.
Messrs. Mansell and Hatcher, Rawdon, Leeds,
are represented by a grand display of Laelio-
Cattleya hybrids, Odontoglossum crispum (good
white forms), Aerides odoratum, and some special
Odontoglossum hybrids shown for the first time.
Mr. C. F. Waters, Balcombe, Sussex, is showing
Cattleyas and Brasso-Cattleyas in variety, with
handsome overarching sprays of Odontoglossums
in the background.
Mr. Harry Dixon, Spencer's Park Nursery,
Wandsworth Common, is showing various Odon-
tiodas, pure white Cattleya Mossiae Wagneri,
and a beautiful form of Odontioda Wilsonii, which
is admired by all lovers of Orchids.
Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Hayward's Heath,
are showing a smaller group than usual, but the
quality is quite up to their usual high standard
of excellence.
Sir Jeremiah Colman, Gatton Park, Reigate
(gardener, Mr. Collier), sends a group magnificent
in colouring and staged in a masterly way. Among
the features of the group are Cattleyas gigas King
Edward VII,, gaskelliana, and William Murray ;
Lselio-Cattleyas canhamiana alba and Phoebe,
Thunia winniana, also Odontiodas raised at
Gatton Park, together with Miltonia hybrids,
including an albino form.
Messrs. Sander and Sons, St. Albans, have a
group unsurpassed in the splendour of its Cattleyas,
Miltonias, Dendrobium Dearei and others. On
either side of the group are large banks of the
magnificent Cattleya gigas sanderiana, shown in
exceptionally good form.
It is a real pleasure to see the intensely interesting
group, in which Vandas and Thunias play an
important part, shown by Lieutenant-Colonel
Sir George Holford, Westonbirt, Tetbury,
Gloucestershire. Large specimen plants of Cattleya
gigas carry heavy trusses of magnificent flowers,
and these, like all other specimen orchidaceous
plants from Westonbirt, reflect the greatest credit
upon Mr. Alexander, the well-known grower.
Messrs. Stuart^Low and Co., Bush Hill Park,
Enfield, Middlesex, have a gorgeous display, in
which the orange-scarlet Renanthera imschootiana
is used with delightful effect among the white
spikes of Phalcenopsids and Odontoglossums.
Messrs. E. H. Davidson and Co., Twyford,
have a miscellaneous group worthy of special
note. Among the novelties may be observed
Cattleya Vulcan x C. aurea, Odontoglossum
Aireworthi Orchid Dene variety and Odonto-
glossum eximium. The Phalsenopsids with their
drooping inflorescences of white flowers make an
imposing display.
SWEET PEAS.
Holland House Show may fairly claim to be
the forerunner of the open-air-grown Sweet Pea
displays each season, for while various early
provincial shows and also the great Chelsea
exhibition are notable for their displays, these
for the most part are made up largely with flowers
from under glass. The HoUand House Show,
however, sees the various specialists in strong
force with outdoor-grown blooms, and on this
occasion the exhibits are more numerous than
usual, and, what is still more important, the
quality is very iine.
Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, make a
feature of their black velvet shields backed by a
grey screen, and the flowers are most artistically
arranged in tubes and vases. A few of the most
telling varieties are Barbara, King Manoel,
Mrs. C. W. Breadmore, Rosabelle, Doris Usher,
Margaret Atlee (a very fine cream pink) and
Scarlet Emperor,
Messrs. Dobbie and Co., Edinburgh, as usual,
are in strong force, and without any artistic
embellishments they make a marvellous display.
The flowers are of very high quality, size and
colour being most telling. Upon tall pillars
Rosabelle, Lavender G. Herbert, Royal Purple,
Thomas Stevenson, &c., are shown, these blooms
being ordinary field - grown ; while, in vases are
gorgeous examples of Margaret Atlee, Hercules,
New Marquis, Red Star, Miss Ireland (a new cream
Picotee), Frilled Pink, Dobbie's Orange, Lady
Miller, Horatio (a fine dark blue), Dobbie's Cream
and Alfred Watkins,
After a lapse of several years Hobbies, Limited,
Dereham, have blossomed forth as Sweet Pea
specialists again, and they make an excellent dis-
play of high-class blooms, A most striking feature
is the new Mrs, Hugh Wormald, a most striking
bicolor with a soft salmon standard and cream wings,
the latter having quite a friUed appearance. It
is quite one of the best breaks yet shown, and
reminds us of a grandiflora seedling we saw some
years ago, but which failed to survive, the nearest to
it being Anglian Fairy, although the latter is much
paler. Messrs. Hobbies' exhibit is made up with
archways and pillars at the back, while the fore-
ground is filled in with grandly staged vases.
Hobbies' Cream, King Manoel, Moneymaker,
Edna May, King White, Hobbies' Salmon, Mrs,
C, W, Breadmore, Thomas Stevenson, Miss Knyvet
(a soft rosy salmon) and Scarlet Emperor are
a few other notable varieties.
Another fine exhibit is that of Messrs, Alex,
Dickson and Sons, Newtownards, Archways with
hanging vases are a feature. Arranged upon
tiers beneath are vases of aU the popular varieties
and many new seedlings, including a most vivid
orange scarlet, Margaret Atlee, Hilary Christie
(a pretty orange bicolor), Melba, Hawlmark Rose,
Illuminator, Blue Picotee, Melody and Orchid
are a few other varieties that stand out pro-
minently,
Messrs, James Carter and Co,, Raynes Park,
make an effective display, the stand being backed
and covered by neutral grey material. Among the
most telling varieties are Doris Usher, Mrs,
Breadmore, Irish Belle, Lavender George Herbert,
Red Star, Mrs, Cuthbertson, Charles Foster,
Thomas Stevenson, Hercules, Rosabelle, King
Manoel and Margaret Atlee,
A very fine exhibit is set up by Mr, James
Box, Lindfield, Edna May Improved and King
Mauve are magnificent, while among others
one notes Mrs, Gibbs Box, James Box, Hercules,
Orange Perfection, Ella Box and Dobbie's Cream,
the latter being remarkably deep in colour.
Some moderately good flowers are set up by
the Rev, C, C, Chahners Hunt, WiUian Rectory,
Letchworth, Thomas Stevenson, Scarlet Emperor,
Mrs, Cuthbertson and Mrs. Hardcastle Sykes are
very fair examples, considering the flowers were
grown quite naturally without any disbudding
whatever,
Messrs. G. Stark and Son, Ryburgh, set up quite
a teUing group upon, the ground. Pillars break up
the flatness while white trellis-work is used as a
background. The flowers are merely field-grown,
no disbudding being done, but they are, never-
theless, very good, especially Lord Northchffe,
King Manoel, Helen WilUams and its white form,
Elsie Edwards (a cream-ground bicolor), Thomas
Stevenson and Lady Miller,
Messrs, J, K, King and Sons, Coggeshall, stage
excellent blooms, but they are somewhat cramped
for space. Among the many varieties shown we
noted May Campbell, Mrs, Breadmore, Crimson
King, Margaret Atlee, King Manoel and Charles
Foster. The exhibit is divided in two portions,
which makes it less effective than it would have been
Messrs, E, W. King, and Co,, Coggeshall, set up
an exhibit similar to that staged at York Gala,
VIOLAS.
Mr, Howard H, Crane, Woodview, Highgate, N.,
sets up a representative exhibit of Violas and
Violettas and, considering the great heat of
late, the blossoms are fresh and attractive.
They are arranged in pans of wet sand, in
which they keep very well. Excellent Violas
are A. S. Frater (white, edged blue), Mrs. B.
Eric Smith (a grand yellow), Lingii, May, Moseley
Perfection (all good yellows). Swan (pure white),
Cygnet (creamy white), Daisy J. Wright (splendid
fancy). Royal Purple, Royal Blue, W, H, Woodgate
and a host of other good things. The Violettas,
so well adapted for the rock garden, are well
shown, this grower having raised most of the recent
acquisitions. Some that appeal to us are
Estelle (minute white). Rock Blue, Rock Lemon,
Rock Orange, Mollie, Purity, Violetta, Eileen,
Queenie, Bluebird, Sweetness and Vestal. These
are a few of the better of these dainty httle
sweet-scented flowers.
Violas, chiefly of the exhibition kinds, are
well shown by Messrs. W. Seagrave and Co..
Sheffield, This firm invariably show well, and
their blooms, being grown further North, appear
to suffer less from the weather than those
of their Southern rivals. A careful look
through this and other Viola exhibits is proof
conclusive that great strides have been made
in the development of this subject in recent
years.
Supplement to THE GARDEN, July 4, 191 4.
Mr. William Axkwright, Sutton Scarsdale,
Chesterfield, has an exhibit of especial interest
to lovers of the Viola. This gentleman has been
working on definite lines in order to give the
world something new and distinct in the way of
colour, &c. We believe he hopes to get a good
Viola of a crimson or kindred tone of colour, and
his exhibit goes to prove the care he is taking
in the development of this interesting subject.
Violas, among other subjects, are shown by
Messrs. Carter Page and Co., London Wall, E.C.
The flowers are well growni and represent a number
of the better kinds in general cultivation.
As usual, Mr. John Forbes, Hawick, makes a
display at the entrance to the show grounds.
Among other hardy flowers, he shows a good list
of Violas in well-known and interesting varieties.
There are good selfs, fancy and edged sorts, and all
combine to add materially to the value of this
grower's display.
TREES AND SHRUBS.
Situated immediately to the left on entering the
grounds is seen an extensive group of Japanese
Maples shown by Messrs. W. Fromow and Son,
Sutton Court Nurseries, Chiswick. The foliage is
varied both in form and colour. The bronze-
tinted Acer laciniatum purpureum, sanguineum and
septcmlobum purpureum are greatly in evidence,
also a fine basket of Acer versicolor, with small
crimson and variegated leaves.
From the Hon. Vicary Gibbs, Aldenham House,
Elstree (gardener, Mr. E. Beckett), comes a rare
and interesting collection of new Chinese plants,
including Acer Henryi and Ailantus vilmoriniana.
Very few of the shrubs are flowering, although
Indigofera viciifolia and one or two unnamed
Potentillas are notable exceptions. This collec-
tion of little-known trees and shrubs makes a very
imposing feature.
Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond, is showing an
interesting group of ornamental shrubs, with a
LUy pool in the foreground. Among the shrubs
will be noticed a great variety of standard and
bush Ivies, Japanese Maples and the handsome
Dimorphanthus mandshuricus foliis argentea
variegata.
Judging by the large collections of clipped
Yews and Boxes, it would seem that there is a
revival of interest taken in the so-called toparian
art. The trees are shown clipped in all manner
of fantastic, and in some instances grotesque,
forms. Peacocks, balloons and spirals appear
'.J be lavoured designs. Clipped Yews and Boxes
are shown by various firms, including Messrs.
Cutbush, Highgate ; Messrs. Piper of Bayswater ;
and Messrs. Cheal of Crawley.
Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, has a group of rare
shrubs, comprising Rhododendrons, Crinoden-
drons, Celmisias and a dwarf Beech from Antarctir
regions.
A very choice collection of shrubs is shown by
the Donard Nursery Company, Newcastle, County
Down. The new forms of Leptospermums,
L. Boscawenii, L. Nichollii and L. Chapmannii,
form the chief features of the group. There is also
an interesting collection of Pittosporums, includ-
irg eugenoides variegata, while Ozothamnus
rf'smarinifolius is seen flowering with its accus-
tomed freedom.
Messrs. John Waterer, Sons and Crisp, Limited,
Bagshot, Surrey, are showing a variety of late
Rhododendrons, also a grand display of Kalmia
latifolia interspersed with standard Maples.
Messrs. Jackman, Woking, are showing Clematises
in great variety. Some of the older varieties stiU
hold their own, although there are delightful
art shades among the newer sorts.
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES.
From Messrs. Ware, Feltham, comes a collection
of pot fruit trees well laden with their luscious and
highly coloured fruits, which look uncommonly
tempting. Plums, Peaches, Nectarines and Figs
are all included, there being a representative
collection of each.
Messrs. Bucks, Tresco, Ipswich, once again
demonstrate the wonderful fruiting qualities of
their Tresco Tomato, which is undoubtedly pro-
lific and one of the most interesting things in
the show.
Messrs. Bunyard and Co., Maidstone, are showing
fruit trees in pots, which reflect the highest credit
upon the cultivation given them. Roses and
herbaceous flowers are alike well shown by this
well-known firm.
Pot fruit trees are shown by Messrs. J. Veitch
and Sons, Chelsea, in the high standard of excel-
lence that we have long learnt to associate with
this firm. Peaches in standard fan-shaped trees.
Plums as espalier and Apples as bush trees are
all to be seen in the height of perfection and carrying
heavy crops. Peaches Early Alfred, Peregrine,
Hale's Early and Duke of York ; Nectarines
Early Rivers, Cardinal and Lord Napier ; Plums
Jefferson, Dennison's Superb, Oullin's Golden ;
Apples Lady Sudeley and James Grieve are chief
among the varieties sho\yn.
The Cherry trees in pots shown by Messrs. T.
Rivers and Son, Sawbridgeworth, are worthy of
special note by virtue of the heavy crops they
carry. Black Tartarian, Frogmore Bigarreau and
Bigarreau de Schreken are truly superb.
Lady Sudeley Apple, handsomely coloured, is
used with good effect in the foreground, while
among the Peaches the crimson variety Peregrine
is exceptionally fine.
The collection of vegetables shown by the Hon.
Vicary Gibbs, Aldenham House, Elstree, reflects
great credit upon Mr. E. Beckett, the able gardener.
Backed by Globe Artichokes, Turnip-rooted Beet
and Cauliflowers, there are exceptionally fine
dishes of Peas Duke of Albany and Centenary
(specially good). Beet Sutton's Globe, Carrots
Favourite and New Red Intermediate, Vegetable
Marrows Table Dainty, Moore's Cream and Per-
fection, Potatoes May Queen, King Edward and
Gladiator, Tomatoes Perfection and Peach Blow.
Messrs. Laxton Brothers, Bedford, have a superb
collection of Strawberries, all of large but even
size. Among the pick of the varieties'are Progress,
The Bedford (very sweet and of Pineapple flavour).
Reward, The Laxton and Givon's Late Prolific.
SUNDRIES.
The Chase Continuous Cloche Company, 11,
Queen Victoria Street, E.C, are in full evidence,
and if only a very small percentage of sunbeams
are caught on this occasion, the temperature
maintained by this system would be quite sufficient
to cultivate even the tenderest tropical plants.
Visitors show a decided preference for Messrs.
Castle's of Milbank, S.W., stand, where it is
possible to rest and enjoy the ease and comfort
provided by their most durable garden seats.
Other suitable garden furniture of every descrip-
tion is on view.
Judging from the prevalence and devastations
of the various insect pests in the garden during
the present year, there should be a great demand
for insecticides of every description, and the stand
displayed by Messrs. William Cooper and Nephews
should prove of great assistance to amateurs
visiting the show.
"Dryad" Cane Furniture suitable both for
indoor and outdoor use is shown in great variety
and in the most artistic and useful forms by the
Dryad Works, St. Nicholas Street, Leicester.
The Folding Span Lights, which are arranged
to show the utility of this invention as a means
of raising early crops and protecting others, are
shown to their best advantage by the Folding
Span Light Company, Slough.
Spraying machines of the latest ' pattern and
design which include all the improvements which
modern science and practice can suggest, combined
with garden syringes, sprinklers, pumps, &c.,
are prominently displayed by the Four Oaks
Company, Sutton Coldfield, Birmingham.
The French Cloche Company, Caxton HoLse
Westminster, S.W., have a good selection of
cloches, frames, and all other French garden
requisites on view which are suitable for all gardens,
from the smallest to the largest.
Messrs. Jeyes, Limited, Cannon Street, E.C,
have also a selection of their weU-known horti-
cultural speciaUties on view, which have been
proved most serviceable to all garden-lovers.
Messrs. Hartgen, 35, Noble Street, E.C, have
a good selection of Holder sprayers on view, in
various shapes and sizes, which can be adapted
to all requirements for both large and small gardens.
Capturing the slug by means of the special
slug trap designed by Mr. Vernon T. Hill, Mendip,
offers great opportunities both to amateurs and
others who suffer from the ravages of this pest.
Teakwood garden furniture, manufactured from
battleships by Messrs. Hughes, Bolckow and Co.,
Limited, 10, Dover Street, W., and Blyth, is
shown in various'designs, including seats, tables,
chairs, arches, &c.
A most interesting exhibit is that of Mr. H.
Jones, Horscombe, Bath, who shows a good variety
of designs in stone vases, balustrades and garden
seats.
Messrs. Robinson Brothers, Limited, West
Bromwich, have an ancient castle well fortified
and equipped with weapons and ammunition
which can be adapted by both amateur and
professional horticulturists for the destruction
of all insect and fungoid pests, and by the most
dainty plant foods obtainable they are prepared
to coax the best possible results even from plants
which are most fastidious in taste.
To thosej^who have an inchnation to indulge
in rock and flower gardening, Messrs. Thomson and
Charman, 11, Adam Street, Adelphi, are prepared
to render every possible assistance with plans
and advice.
The falling off of horse traction and the increased
number of motors has raised the question of less
manure for the garden. To some this may be a
serious one, but Messrs. Wakeley Brothers,
Honduras Wharf, Bankside, S.E., are doing their
level best to make up for the deficiency. Their
patent Hop Manure is certainly the best substitute
for stable manure at the present time, and is a
most valuable plant food for both town and
country.
*, Owing to the demand on out space we are
compelled to hold over until next week parlicvtars of
a number of exhibits at Holland House. For
the same reason reports of the Sherborne Floral File
and the Isle of Wight Rose Show are also deferred.
TULY 4, I9I4.]
THE HELIANTHEMUMS OR
SUN ROSES.
DURING June and July the various
kinds of Heliantliemums or Sun
Roses are among the most beautiful
plants in the rock garden, while
they are also effective on dry banks
and walls. Even outside the garden
the common kind may often be found making very
beautiful pictures, for it is wild in many parts of
the country, and often forms, with short grass,
the principal vegetation upon poor, thin soil over-
lying rocks on hill and mountain sides. In such
places the rich golden flowers besprinkle the grass
in much the same manner that the
Buttercup does in moist meadows.
Under cultivation the common
H. vulgare has undergone a con-
siderable change, for not only does
it appear as a taller and more
compact plant than is usual in a
state of Nature, but the colour of
the flowers has changed to a re-
markable extent ; and whereas it
is rare to find any other colour than
the orthodox gold among wild
plants, we find that under cultiva-
tion there are kinds with white,
cream, pink, red, and copper
coloured flowers. Some of these
kinds are selected forms which have
sported from the type, and others
are hybrids between H. vulgare and
closely allied British and Con-
tinental species. It is, however,
easy to find how soon a selection
of varieties may be procured if
seeds are taken from a mixed col-
lection and sown. Not only will
there be a wide range of colou)
among the seedlings, but the
strength of the plants will also show
great variation. This also indicates
how difiicult it is to propagate
and keep true even the most dis-
tinct forms from seeds ; therefon;
cuttings must be relied upon not
only for the increase of the garden
hybrids and varieties, but also for
closely allied species when the
plants are growing in close prox-
imity and the flowers are easily
cross-fertilised by insects. Cuttings
of short shoots taken during June
or July, dibbled into pots
of sandy soil and placed in a
close frame, root quite well, and at the end of the
first year form nice plants for permanent posi-
tions. They must, however, be kept in pots
until they can be placed out permanently, for
they transplant with difficulty. Moreover, small
plants are preferable to large ones for positions
where the soil is scarce, such as crevices
between rocks in the rockery, or niches in
loosely built walls.
An annual cutting over as soon as the flowers
fade is attended by good results, for the untidy
dead flower-stalks are thus removed and more
room is made for young shoots. Helianthemums
are often rather short-lived ; therefore it is wise
to destroy old plants which show signs of declining
health, and commence again with good stock.
Among the many kinds which may be procured.
THE GARDEN.
the following species and varieties wil! be found
desirable : H. vulgare and H. glaucum are closely
allied plants, the latter differing from the former
mainly in its greyish leaves ; another plant which
also has grey leaves, and is sometimes classed as
a variety of H. vulgare and sometimes as a distinct
species, being H. croceum. They hybridise very
freely, and the many garden forms which are
usually attributed to the common Sun Rose may
with equal rights in many instances be classed
with one or other of the other species. Good
forms for general planting are album, with single
white flowers, and album plenum, with double
white blossoms ; carminatum has red flowers
and it also offers a double-flowered form ; Fireball
has bright red, semi-double flowers ; cupreum
343
H. umbellatum is a rather stiff, upright-habited
bush from Southern Europe. It grows from
9 inches to 18 inches high and is recognised by
its small, Rosemary-like leaves and upright
racemes of white flowers. There is also a distinct
group of Sun Roses composed of a few species,
the best-known one of which is H. formosum.
A native of Portugal, it forms a spreading bush
2 feet or more high, with greyish leaves and yellow
flowers ij inches across, which are peculiar by
reason of the brownish blotch found at the base
of each petal. It is quite hardy and an excellent
kind to plant where it can be allowed plenty of
room. Others of the same set and plants of
rather similar habit are H. alyssoides, H. halimi-
folium and H. ocymoides. The first named has
yellow, unblotched blossoms ;
while the other two have their
golden flowers marked with brown.
All four plants must be given a
simny position in order that the
wood may become thoroughly
ripened. They are sometimes
mistaken for the allied genus
Cistus, but are recognised as
Helianthemums by the three-
celled ovary.
WHITE SUN ROSES ON A RETAINING WALL
has copper-coloured blossoms ; while Magenta
Queen has magenta blooms ; Rose Queen, rose ;
roseum, rose ; flore pleno, double yellow ;
venustum, scarlet ; and rubens, ■ orange-coloured
flowers respectively.
H. polifolium is a distinct species, which is
of looser habit and a taller plant than H. vulgare.
Its leaves are greyish and rather narrow, while
its flowers may be pink or white. Rhodanthum,
a red-flowered plant, is sometimes claimed to be
a variety of this.
H. alpestre and H. vineale are a couple of choice
little plants, rather more tender than the commoner
species. They should be given a sunny position
on the rockery, where they will form pretty little
tufts a few inches high and bear their bright yellow
blossoms with great freedom.
CALCEOLARIA GOLDEN
GLOW.
The cultivation of the few known
hardy Calceolarias has received
an impetus since the production of
the fine hybrid raised by Messrs.
Veitch of Exeter called Golden
Glow, and which is now fairly well
known in the best gardens. It may
be considered as generally hardy,
and is one of the most ornamental
flowers of its class in summer. One
finds, however, that the species
called polyrhiza is not too much
cultivated, although by no means
a rarity, and possessing a constitu-
tion of undoubted hardiness
throughout at least the greater part
of the British Isles. Its creeping
growth renders it excellent for
rapidly covering a good-sized space,
where its neat leaves and quaint
yellow flowers make a pleasing
display.
It is not generally known
that there are at least two
forms of this Calceolaria ; and
as it is a plant which is widely
distributed in its native home —
Chili — there are probably others yet to come
under our notice. At present, however, we have
two— one with considerably smaller flowers than
the other, and also of lower stature and less vigorous
in the growth of its leaves. As for their
cultivation, these two forms of C. polyrhiza are
very accommodating. Some recommend bog
treatment, and they certainly thrive under such
conditions, but tfiey will also do %vell in a soil of a
dry nature with plenty of stones among it. while I
have never seen the larger form finer than in ordi-
nary soil in a nursery border. This fine hardy
Calceolaria is a gem for the rock garden, especially
in places where it can be allowed to spread into
generous masses, where its golden flowers will
look so well in the light of a midsummer day.
Dumfries. S. Arnott.
344
THE GARDEN.
[July 4, 1914.
THE BEST CACTI FOR THE
GREENHOUSE.
A S stated by a writer in a recent number of
/\ The Garden, it is a matter for sur-
/ % prise that one does not see more frequent
/ % mention of the different members of
-* *- the Cacti family, as they have so
many claims to recognition. The
quaint and uncommon appearance of many of
them constitutes one noteworthy feature ; then,
we have a great many whose ribs and spines
are disposed with quite mathematical precision.
Next, the blossoms of many of them are remarkably
shovfy ; and lastly, being so accustomed in a state
of Nature to long periods of drought, one may
take one's summer holiday without any danger
of these succulents suffering from drought in the
care that they are well drained. A suitable compost
will consist mainly of loam, lightened by a little
broken brick rubble and sand. They may be
watered moderately during the summer, provided
always that the dramage is perfect ; but in the
winter very little water will be required.
Flowering Cacti. — A vast number may be
included under this head, the blossoms of so many
of them being very remarkable ; but the term is
more generally applied to the different forms of
Cereus and Phyllocacti, whose blossoms are in
many cases really gorgeous. These are more of
a shrub-like nature, for the flattened branches
attain a considerable size. It has often been
a matter of surprise to me that the different
Phyllocacti (the garden forms of which are almost
innumerable) should not be more grown, for,
though it may be urged against them that the
blossoms do not long remain, yet in the case of
P^ONIA LOBATA, A BEAUTIFUL SPECIES WITH TULIP-SHAPED FLOWERS.
meantime. It is, I know full well, often a source
■of worry to the owners of greenhouses to arrange
for the plants being attended to during their
absence from home, and the arrangements made
•do not always turn out satisfactory. With plants
so indifferent to drought as cactaceous plants
in general, the results are very different. Another
purpose to which they may be put is for growing
in a sunny window, under which conditions they
are just at home.
Miniature Cacti. — These are a source of interest
to many, and, as quite a representative collection
may be kept in a limited space, a considerable
number may be grown in a window. As sold
the plants are in small ornamental pots, and
they will keep in health therein for a very long
time without being disturbed at the roots. In
order to grow them on, however, thCy will in
time need to be shifted into larger pots, taking
good healthy examples a succession is kept up
for some time, and withal the plants are of easy
culture. Cacti of this class do not withstand
drought like those of a more globular shape ;
indeed, during the growing season the plants
require to be moderately watered. The flowers
of many of these Phyllocacti are quite startling
in their tones of colour and the contrasts which
occur in the same bloom. In some flowers the
main portion of the bloom is of an orange, orange
salmon or scarlet shade, shot in the centre with
vivid tints of violet, blue or purple. These features,
which cause a flower to appear of a different colour,
according to the standpoint from which it is viewed,
are in some cases quite startling. There are also
many other coloured varieties, some of the pinks
being very pleasing. Quite a small pink-flowered
kind, whose blossoms are borne in great profusion,
is Phyllocactus phyllanthoides German Empress,
while the large creamy white blossoms of Cooperi
afford a pleasing variety in colour.
Complaints are by no means infrequent that
these Phyllocacti do not flower so freely as they
ought to do, and when this is the case it is
often caused by not exposing the plants suffi-
ciently to the full sunshine. Of course, they may
be shaded when in bloom, as the flowers then last
longer ; but at other times they should have the
benefit of all the simshine available. Should
the plants need repotting, it is best carried out
directly the blossoms are over. A mixture of
two-thirds loam to one-third leaf-mould, brick
rubble and sand will suit all the Phyllocacti.
They are readily struck from portions of
the branches taken during the early summer
months, inserted into pots of sandy soil and
placed on a sunny shelf. Care must be taken
not to overwater.
Those two very nearly allied
forms of Epiphyllum, namely, E.
Gsertneri and E. makoyanum, that
bloom in the spring and early summer
months, claim recognition. They
differ from the well-known E.
truncatum both in their season of
blooming and in the shape of their
red blossoms, which are regular in
appearance and suggest a small
kind of Cereus. The style of growth
is just like that of E. truncatum.
Many species of Cereus take up
a considerable amount of room, but
one species — Cereus flagelliformis,
known popularly as the Rat's-tail
Cactus- — is a delightful basket plant.
When suspended, the long, round
shoots hang down for a considerable
distance, and in the summer, when
its bright rose-coloured blossoms
are at their best, it forms a delight-
ful feature.
The Night-flowering Cacti, of
which Cereus grandiflorus is one of
the best known, need a large
structure and a fair amount of
heat for their successful culture.
Of smaller- growing Cacti re-
markable for their quaint shapes,
peculiarly arranged spines and
pretty flowers may be mentioned
the various forms of Echinocactus,
Echinocereus, Echinopsis and Mam-
millaria. Apart from the Cacti
proper, various other succulents,
such as some members of the genus
Agave, Aloe, Crassula, Echeveria, Gasteria,
Haworthia and Mesembryanthemum, are well
worthy of association with them. H. P.
P^ONIA LOBATA.
So much attention has been paid in recent years
to garden varieties of the Paeony that there is a
tendency to overlook this beautiful species. Pffionia
lobata is a charming plant with glorious coral
pink flowers and clusters of golden anthers. The
flowers are Tulip-shaped, and distinct from garden
varieties in both colour and form. It has this year
been admirably shown at Vincent Square by
Mr. James Box of Hayward's Heath, who gained
for it a certificate of merit from the National Hardy
Plant Society. It is not a new plant, although
seldom seen, and it is not every year that it flowers
with the freedom experienced this season.
July 4, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
345
GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS
HOW TO BUD ROSES.
I. A BUD REMOVED AND PREPARED FOR
INSERTION.
OF the several methods em-
ployed in the propagation
of the Rose, budding is
the most important and
extensively practised. Out-
doors the best time to bud
Roses is the second half of July and
during August. While many amateur
Rose-growers prefer to purchase vigorous
young plants from a nursery, there are
others who take a delight in propagating
some at least of their own Rose trees.
There are several kinds of " stocks "
employed for budding — the Dog Rose
(Rosa canina) of our hedgerows in three
forms, the standard, seedling Briar, and
Briar cuttings. The Manetti stock, which
was originally obtained from Italy, is
propagated by cuttings ; so also is the
De la Grifferae stock. The Japanese
Rosa rugosa is also used both as a standard
and dwarf stock, being readily raised
from seeds and cuttings.
Standard Roses.— The standard Rose
stocks are mostly obtained from the
hedgerows in the autumn and early
winter. Planted in the garden, they will
be ready to bud towards the end of the
following summer. The height of the
standard varies according to the size
and strength of the Briars and the
requirements of the grower. They, as
a rule, vary from 2 feet (half-standards)
to 4 feet in height for Hybrid Per-
petuals and Hybrid Teas, while for
the lovely weeping standards of the
wichuraiana type stocks 6 feet to 10 feet high
are most useful when they can be procured.
The stocks should be cut off at the required height
previous to planting, which should be done before
Christmas. In spring a goodly number of shoots
may be expected to push out from the Briar
stems. About four of those nearest the top should
be retained, the remainder being rubbed off with
the thumb and finger as soon as they show. A
sharp knife is a necessity for budding, and plenty
of raffia, cut into lengths of 12 inches to 15 inches,
should be kept close at hand, fastened to the waist.
The best buds, as a rule, are those on shoots which
are flowering or have just recently flowered. Such
a shoot is sho\vn in Fig. i. Select plump buds
which show no signs of growing. Cut off the
leaves as illustrated, leaving about an inch of the
leaf-stalk. The next operation is to slice off
the bud, starting with the knife half an inch
above the bud. Make a downward cut and
finish off half an inch below the bud. In Fig. i
a bud is shown removed ready for insertion, with
the cut surface exposed on the shoot from which
it has been removed. Remove carefully with the
point of the knife the small piece of wood at the
back of the bud, so that only the bud and a shell
of bark remain.
Preparing the Stocks.— Should dry weather
prevail, ample water ought to be given the stocks
some days before the budding operations are to
commence ; this will make the bark run much
easier. To commence on the stock, cut away
3- A STANDARD ROSE TEN MONTHS API ER BUDDING.
2. TYING IN THE BUD ON A STANDARD BRIAR
STOCK.
all thorns near where tlie bud is to be in-
serted. This should be at the base or as
near the base of the young shoot as con-
venient. One and a half inches to
2 inches from the base make a cross-cut
through the bark about half an inch long,
then a longitudinal cut from the cross-cut
I inch long in the direction of the base of
the shoot. Next, take one of the prepared
buds, carefully lift the bark at the cross-
cut, and slide in the bud, holding it by
the piece of leaf-stalk. The bud should
now be tied in firmly with raffia, as illus-
trated in Fig. 2. If there are three or
four suitable shoots, they should be budded,
as there is always the possibility of failure,
especially if the operator is inexperienced,
while, if four buds take, it will be quite
easy to remove the weaker. In about four
weeks examine the raffia, when, if the bud
has taken, the raffia should be loosened and
tied more loosely. Some controversy exists
over the right time to shorten the growths
which are budded. A section of growers
cut off the ends of the shoots when pre-
paring the wood for budding, but ex-
perience points to it being better to defer
all the cutting until late autumn, say,
about November, the Briars then being cut
back to within 3 inches or a little more of
the bud. Having been successful with the
budding, the most important matter is to
tie the young growths securely to thin
stakes. Fig. 3 depicts the top of a stan-
dard Briar photographed at the end of
May, ten months from budding. O. A.
346
THE GARDEN.
[July 4, 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
Winter Tomatoes. — A sowing of some free-
setting variety sfioiild be made at once in order
to secure a supply of ripe Tomatoes in tfie winter.
Sow the seeds thinly in pots or pans and place
in gentle heat until the young plants are well
through the surface, after which they should be
raised to within a few inches of the roof glass,
so that they may not become drawn. Pot into
3-inch pots as soon as large enough, and again
into 6-inch pots as soon as ready. When the
final potting takes place, the soil may consist
of two-thirds turfy loam and the remainder of
leaf-soil with a good sprinkling of bone-meal.
Early Vines. — Now that the Grapes have been
cut, the Vines should be syringed daily during hot
weather. The lateral growth may be allowed to
run, but not to become overcrowded. Examine
the border, and, if necessary, give a good soaking
of liquid manure from the farmyard.
Peach Trees. — Early Peach trees from which
the fruits have been gathered should be carefully
thinned out. Remove all wood which is not
required for next season's crop. If this work is
carefully accomplished now, the wood which is
left will receive the full benefit of the sun to
prepare it for another year, and winter pruning
will be a very simple matter. Keep the shoots
tied into position, and syringe freely during the
remainder of the season to keep the trees quite
free from insects. If the borders are well drained,
a liberal supply of water should be given at the
roots, previous to which a sprinkling of artificial
manure may be applied with advantage.
Plants Under Glass.
Malmaison Carnations. — Now is the time to
propagate these favourite flowers by layering.
The best method is to set a cold pit apart for the
purpose. Let the pit be filled to within 15 inches
of the glass with good sandy soil, and select clean,
healthv plants from which to propagate the future
stock. ' These old plants should be carefully
turned out of the pots and planted in the new soil,
spreading the growths evenly over the surface,
so that when the work is finished the pit may
be full of clean, healthy shoots. Use a very sharp
knife and cut through a joint on the imder side
of the shoot. Cover with sandy soil and peg
oarefully down, making the soil moderately firm.
Keep the pit closed for ten days and protect from
sun. The foliage should be damped frequently
with clear soft water. When growth commences,
ventilate the pit to keep the young plants from
becoming drawn.
Mignonette. — A sowing of some good variety
for pot culture may be made now to furnish plants
for late autumn flowering. If sown in 6-inch
pots and placed in a cold frame until the seedlings
are ready to thin, they will make useful plants
by the beginning of November. Five or six
plants will be sufficient for each pot.
Herbaceous Calceolarias may be sown now
and placed in a cold frame or under a hand-light
behind a north wall. The soil should be thoroughly
moistened before the seeds are sown, and only
a light covering of the seeds is necessary.
The Flower Garden.
Hollyhocks. — The plants will benefit by frequent
waterings of liquid manure. Old plants with
several spikes should be secured to a central stake,
or the wind may soon ruin them. If dry weather
sets in, a mulching of some kind should be placed
over the roots, horse-manure for preference.
Lilies which are throwing up their flower-stems
should also be supported with stakes, and water must
be freely given for the remainder of the season.
Flower-Beds. — ^The plants are making rapid
progress, and a weekly inspection of them will
be necessary in order to keep them within bounds.
This applies to carpet bedding plants more par-
ticularly, as if left for a longer period they present
an over-trimmed appearance when the work
has been finished. Keep the grass trimmed
round the edges of the beds, and pass the lawn-
mower over the grass at intervals of a few days.
The Rock Garden.
Early Flowering Plants. — Many of these
will have formed seed-pods, and these should be
secured before the seeds drop. Seeds which are
to be sown in spring may be placed in small paper
bags and kept in a dry room until the time arrives
for sowing.
Primulas, many of which are excellent subjects
for sunny positions in the rock garden, should be
planted well above the level of the surrounding
soil, as they are liable to suffer from damp during
the winter. Primula seeds should be sown directly
they are ripe. Sow thinly in pans of sandy soil,
and place in a cold frame until the seeds germinate.
Pot into small pots as soon as large enough and
protect from strong sun. Established plants
may be divested of all decaying foliage, and the
soil lightly stirred between the plants previous
to top-dressing with light, sandy soil.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Strawberries. — No time should be lost in
securing a sufficient number of healthy layers
to make the early plantation for next season.
Royal Sovereign is still one of the very best Straw-
berries for early or midseason supplies, and if
healthy layers are placed in small pots now,
they should be ready for planting about the
middle of August. The border for this purpose
should be trenched 2 feet deep, and a dressing
of decayed farmyard manure mixed with the
soil as the work proceeds. When the soil has
become settled and the plants are ready, they
may be carefully planted in rows 2 feet apart
and 15 inches from plant to plant in the rows.
Make firm and see that they receive sufficient
moisture at the roots.
Peaches and Nectarines. — The final thinning
of the fruits should take place at once. Trees
in this district are carrying a heavy crop, and
unless they receive attention at once, the quality
of the crop will suffer In consequence.
The Kitchen Garden.
Lettuce. — a sowing of Lettuce seed may be
made at intervals of ten days from now to the
end of August. The situation should be shaded
during the warmest part of the day. A border
facing east will be a suitable place for them.
Endive may be sown now for use during the
autumn, and a fortnight later for early winter
supplies.
Celery. — The maincrop Celery should be planted
without delay, watering the plants thoroughly
as soon as thev are placed in position.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Shallots. — In many cases these will have com-
pleted their growth and be ready for lifting ;
this, of course, must be determined by their
appearance. Those that are ready should be
puUed up and placed in a sunny position to ripen,
turning them frequently so that every part
will be exposed to the sun. Should, however,
the weather he wet, they had better be put under
glass in a cold frame.
Winter Onions. — These ought now to be
ready for har\'esting, and, should the weather be
fine, no time must be lost in taking them up. It
will scarcely be necessary to string these up as
is done in the autumn, but at the same time they
should be spread out in an open position, well
exposed to the sun.
Tomatoes. — Those that were planted out some
time ago against a south wall will now be making
rapid growth, and, as the idea should be to ripen
the fruit as early as possible, the plants ought to
be restricted to one stem and have the point pinched
out when a sufficient number of fruits have set.
Should a supply of water not be at hand, the plants
had better have a mulch of farmyard manure,
which will assist the fruit to swell and preserve
the moisture in the soil.
The Flower Garden.
Carnations. — Many of the earlier - flowering
varieties are now coming into flower, and it is
advisable to reduce the number of buds, particu-
larly the larger-flowered sorts. Varieties of the
King Arthur and Duchess of Rothesay type
can be more severely dealt with, while the smaller-
flowered sorts had better be allowed to grow
naturally. Those plants that had the flower-
spikes removed to al|low the plant to make grass
for layering will soon be readv. and no time should
be lost in getting this work done. It is, however,
too early to layer the main batch.
Violets. — Runners must be removed as they
appear, so that all the energies of the plant may
go to building up the crown. A dusting of
soot from time to time will greatly assist in keeping
down red spider, and if this is applied while the
foliage is damp it will be more effectual.
Thinning Annuals. — It will be as well to
go over the various annuals and give them a
final thinning. These thinnings, I find, make a
grand display later in the season if planted in bold
clumps or used for filling up vacant spots in the
herbaceous borders. Previous to planting, dip
the roots in a prepared puddle, and supply them
with water until they take a hold.
Plants Under Glass.
Hydrangeas. — The present is a suitable time
to secure cuttings of this useful greenhouse plant.
If space permitted, it would be as well
to place the cuttings in the propagating- pit
to encourage quick rooting. Where specimens
are required, pot on the strongest of the young
plants now passing out of flower ; these should
be cut back and brought on slowly.
Fibrous-rooted Begonias. — All this type will
now require potting on — at least, as soon as the
roots appear at the sides of the pots. After potting,
keep them in a fairly hot house, and pick
off the flowers as they appear. Many recom-
mend pinching the points out of the young plants
of Gloire de Lorraine ; this, however, I think,
is a mistake, as the plants seem to make far finer
specimens if allowed to grow naturally.
Mignonette in Pots. — In the colder districts
Mignonette might be sown in pots now to flower
in the early spring. To ensure that the yoimg
plants do not receive a check, it will be as well to
sow in small pots, two or three seeds in each,
and afterwards reduce the seedlings to one. It
must, however, be understood that Mignonette
will not stand coddling in any shape or form.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Wall Trees. — All wall trees will now be greatly-
benefited by liberal suppHes of water at the roots,
especially those on walls that have a projecting
coping, as on such walls the trees are practically
deprived of any moisture that may be falling.
Where it is at all possible, the trees should be
syringed late in the afternoon on fine days ; this
will be found (o be very refreshing, and also tend
to keep the foliage free from red spider. If
summer pruning has not been commenced, no time
should be lost in seeing to this very necessary
operation.
Loganberries. — At the present moment these
are throwing up a mass of yoimg growths,
which, if not thinned out, will seriously interfere
with the swelling of the fruit and the proper
ripening of the canes intended for next year's
crop. Select a few of the strongest canes and
tie them up loosely to the wires, and the remaining
shoots should be cut clean away. Afterwards
give the ground a good dressing of farmyard
manure.
Fruits Under Glass.
Strawberries. — To secure well-ripened crowr.s
for early forcing in the spring, a start should at
once be made in securing suitable runners, and
these ought to be taken from young fruiting plants.
Place these in 3-inch pots filled with good loam,
and stand them closely together to facilitate the
work of watering. On no account allow tlie
young plants to become dry at the roots, and
pot them into their fruiting pots before they root
through into the ground.
Late Vines. — The thinning of Grapes intended
to be kept well into the spring should be carefully
attended to ; the centre of the bunch especially
should be looked over several times and thinned
out, as it is here that the Grapes suffer most from
damping. Keep all laterals well pinched ; at
the same time allow a suflicient covering of the
foliage to protect the bunches. As Lady Downe's
is very subject to scalding, great care must be
exercised in ventilating that house, particularly
in the morning. John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the .Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hofieloun Gardens, South Queensferry. N.B.
. July 4, 1914.J
THE GARDEN,
IM7
AFFINITIES IN RELATION
TO POLLINATION OF
FRUIT TREES.
ONE often hears of a tree flowering
i most profusely that seldom bears
I a crop of fruit, and, on going deeper
' into the subject, it is apparent that
the tree is self-sterile. Not far
from Hereford a large Pear tree
[flowered well every season, but had no fruit on it
for over six years. When, a few years ago, I
advised the owner to tie a rabbit's skin to a pole,
brushing it lightly over another variety of Pear,
then gently touching the blooms of this fruitless
tree, he carried out my instructions, and during the
past two seasons, and owing to this process, he has
■obtained a bountiful crop, so prolific that it has
induced a fruiterer from Hereford to run a dray
■sixteen miles to secure the fruit and pay the best
price for it. Here one can see at a glance the value
■of planting an affinity near this tree, as it is evident
this variety requires pollination distinctive. The
varieties on observation for use in setting are
Fertility, Comte de Lamy, Josephine de Malines,
Glou Morpeau and Louise Bonne de Jersey, these
varieties being potent factors, and appear to
pollinate the several other varieties surrounding
them.
The Apple family is also, in most varieties,
self-sterile, and in many orchards, especially where
one variety has been planted in a block, pro-
nounced sterile tendencies are shown. Therefore,
to avoid this, one should plant those varieties we
know on observation to be affinities. Recently I
saw a glaring case of varieties being in proximity
which proved a pollinator perfect, viz.. Cox's
Orange Pippin and Peasgood's Nonsuch, surrounded
by several Warner's King, and in each case there was
a splendid set of fruit ; the same two varieties in
the same orchard, but a considerable distance from
the first-named, surrounded by Cox's Pomona,
had scarcely a fruit on them. This proves con-
clusively that the variety Warner's King is the
potent factor in the production. Within a few
miles of Hereford there are some fine specimens
of Blenheim Orange Apple trees, probably fifty
years old, and until fourteen years ago a good crop
was given, but latterly the return has been very
small, and on information I found that a fine old
specimen Crab (Pyrus Malus) had been uprooted
by the elements, and since then the crop had always
been scarce. Here we see the value of an
indigenous variety to assist pollination, and a
real asset, to my thinking, as no doubt the loss
of the Crab Apple proved the reason of the failure ;
and one will have noticed that wherever the Crab
Apple is in proximity to any variety of the Apple,
so sure is there to be a crop.
Potent factors on observation appear to be
Warner's King, Bramley's Seedling, Lord Derby,
Worcester Pearmain and Bismarck ; these un-
doubtedly would prove satisfactory if intermixed
with every good variety in the proportion of about
one to eight. Plums are exactly in the same
category. In many orchards or plantations
one will find sterile varieties, and the remedy is
to graft or intermix with affinities. On close study
one will find these in Monarch, Czar, Victoria and
Prolific. These are sure fertilisers for most of the
remaining varieties, but I advise, in the arrange-
ment of the plantation, to plant in the proportion
of one to six. I have several times advised planting
Prolific near the varieties of the Gage family.
and in most cases have to record aa unqualified
success. In any case, never plant a block or
quarter of any one variety unless intermingled
with some of the sorts previously named,
and it would also be wise never to plant
any one sort, even if known to be self-fertile,
as each and all are much more profitable if
pollinated distinctively.
Now, a word as to the remedy in making these
old trees fruitful in some of the old orchards.
My advice is to head two branches on every
fourth tree, one on the west, the other on the east
side of the tree, and graft these with Warner's
King and Bramley's Seedling — these two varieties
have pronounced fertile properties — unless there
are vacancies to plant young stocks of these
varieties. But the grafting process is the quickest
way to obtain maturity.
The pollen grains, no doubt, are carried, in a great
measure, by the breezes, although I am convinced
that insects have been in a large measure a great
factor in bringing pollination to a successful
issue. At the same time, I know of trees in
orchards five to six miles from the nearest beehive,
and yet an abundant crop has been taken from these
trees in most seasons, and I contend it would be
impossible in a mature orchard, say of ten acres,
and trees in age varying from fifty to eighty years,
for any insect to visit the entire crop of flowers,
or even a small proportion of them, especially
as experienced this season. Therefore, the zephyrs
have the primary work to do, and it is a matter of
serious consideration and interest to cultivators of
hardy fruit to study these simple matters daily,
and employ methods more encouraging than
hitherto, as, commercially, the prospects are good
and the demand great. George J. Lovelock.
THE EDITOR'S TABLE.
Buddleia Colvillei from Exeter.— Messrs. R.
Veitch and Sons of the Royal Nurseries, Exeter,
s^jnd sprays of this handsome shrub, also photo-
graphs showing the size of the specimen growing
in their nurseries. Unfortunately, these were
not suitable for reproduction. The flowers of
this Buddleia are a sort of brick red in colour,
and are produced in large, somewhat loose,
pendulous panicles. It is a pity that their scent
is not quite what we can term pleasing. Messrs.
Veitch write as follows : " We are sending you^
herewith sprays of Buddleia Colvillei. The tree,
of which we enclose photographs, was planted
out in 1 901, and now stands r6 feet in height,
with a spread of 21 feet and carrying about three
hundred trusses of its large pink blooms. It
has never shown the slightest injury by frost,
though one season we registered 21°."
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
Every department of horticulture is represented in Thb
Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions
relating to matters upon which they wish expert advice.
The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
hut he will not he responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.
As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright iviU be treated with.
The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden loiU alone
be recognised as acceptance.
O^ces : 20, Tamstoc/c Street, Covent Garden, W.C.
ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND AfiSVIERS.— The Editor endeavours to
make The Oardkn helpful to all readers who desire assint-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardenin;/ may be, and
with thai, object makes a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required m addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the jjaper. Wfien more than one.
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of papm.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed' in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
slioots, where possible, should be sent. It ts useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher,
FLOWER GARDEN.
P;E0NIES not flowering (W. D.).—The most
probable cause of the non-flowerinf; of the Paeonies is th(
dry spring of 1913, which, militatin*; against good growth,
also prevented the formation of flowering crowns. All
you can do now is to supply the plants liberally witli
water and liquid manure, though it would have been better
had it been started two months ago. As the plants are
healthy, they appear to be lacking in vigour.
TREATMENT FOR AQUATICS (SagiUaria). — lou
had better allow the water to trickle continuously into
your Kymphfea tubs, or at any rate for several houri'
each day. Goldfish may be placed in the tubs if you
like, but they will not be likely to keep the water clean
A constant supply of fresh water is what is most needed
The tubs should be cleaned out and the Water Lilies'
planted in new soil each year. March is a good time for
the work. Be careful to remove decaying leaves and
flowers regularly through the summer.
A SEEDLING VIOLA (R. W. D.).—Tho colour of your
seedling Viola is very charming, and until quite recently
there were no varieties in commerce equal to its beautiful
light blue tone of colour. Two years ago, however, a
rayless variety named W. H. Woodgate was introduced,
and the blue colouring in this variety is practically identical
with that of your seedling. The lines radiating from
the centre of the bloom of your variety, in our opinion
detract from its value, and that is why we have a distinct
preference for the variety we have named.
A RHODODENDRON FOR THE ROCK GARDEN
(Teregram). — The specimen sent for identification is
Rhododendron indicum var. balsaminiosflora. It is a
well-marked variety of the popular Indian Azalea, or
Indian Rhododendron as it is correctly called, R. indicum
and has long been in cultivation. Both dwarfer and'
hardier than the type, it is an excellent plant for the
rock garden or border in the warmer parts of the country
and even thrives fairly well in some parts of the Midlands'.
Mature plants are often no more than 12 inches high, but
very bushy. As a rule, it blossoms freely from the time
when it is but an inch or 2 inches high. Cuttings of
half-ripe shoots root well in sandy peat in a ^close
frame during summer, and good plants may be purchased
from any of the nurserymen who make a speciality of
hardy plants.
A SELECTION OF DAHLIAS AND VIOLAS (B. T.).—
You vidll find the following Cactus and single Dahlia? a
useful lot for cutting : Cactus — Charles Woodbridge,
Countess of Lonsdale, Lord Roberts, Loyalty, Lucius]
Magnificent, Mrs. C. Gaze, Red Rover, Starfish, Up-to-date]
William Jowett and Zephyr. Singles — Alice Seale]
Beauty, Folly, Alice, Jeannette, Northern Star, Polly Eccles,
Phyllis, Victoria, Miss Roberts, Mrs. Cannell and Mrs.
Watson. Six showy and free-flowering Violas are
Countess of Hopetoun, Countess of Kintore, White Duchess,
Archie Grant, Primrose Dame and J, B. Riding, Six good
Pansies will be found in Agnes Kay, Dr. Campbell,
Leviathan, George Stewart, Lord Roberts and Miss Neil,
It is not, however, worth while purchasing named'
varieties of Pansies unless they are required for a special
purpose, as seedlings are now quite as good. Bone-meal,
basic sl?,g and kainit are suitable manures for your lawns
and meadows.
VARIOUS QUESTIONS iReader).~lt is not usual
for Soldanellas to flower a second time, and too fre-
quently they refuse to flower at all. This year we have
seen more than one instance of later flowers, though in
all probability the crowns now flowering did not do so
earlier in the year. You appear to have been very fortunate
with your Sweet Peas, and the plants generally are doing
well this season, particularly so those sown in September
last on chalky loams and in good holding soils. The result,
in some measure, may also be due to the conditions under
which last year the seeds were grown, a bad or good
growing and ripening season not unnaturally affecting
the crops, as also the subsequent season's growth and
development. Erythrseis are, as you say, deserving of
more extended cultivation, though they are grown
and appreciated in many gardens. You are" also fortunate
with your Tomatoes, as in some districts these have sufi'ered
from the late spring frosts.
348
THE GARDEN.
[July 4, 1914.
AUBRIETIAS NOT FLOWERING (E. V. S.).—^\f
micrht have fornied a more correct opinion as to the
failure had yoii riven some particulars as to the position
and cultivation generally. In the absence of these we
c-an only presume that the plants are in too rich a soil,
or in the shade witli cons^iderable moisture at hand.
These plants are most prodi^ral in their flowering; when
promn'i in comparatively poor soil in full sun, as, e.g..
ledces of rock or as odplncs to pathways and like places.
With these, firm planting is an important factor. If
your plants are not in a fully expofcd place, you should
transfer them to such an one without delay and give them
a poor soil into which old mortar, pravel, Fand or broken
sandstone enters freely. By pruning now to within
3 inches of the soil, the plants would break away again
in a month, and may be replanted then if you can give
the necessary attention to watering and shading till they
are re-established. \Ve arc complying mth your further
request.
PROPAGATION OF DIANTHUS AND ONOSMA
{A. 0. S.). — The only practical method is by heel cuttings
severed with a slight downward pull from the parent
plant and inserted without more ado. Layering is
impracticable, and, indeed, impossible of good results
in the case of the Onosma.and cuttings made to a supposed
"joint" have no possibility of rooting, owing to the
peculiarity of the gro\\'th. On the other hand, heel
cuttings in sandy soil in a cold frame in June will root
readily. Hence your enquiry is in the nick of time.
The Dianthus may be rooted from June to September
by employing the'same type of cutting in like circum-
stances. In thi? case a greater number of suitable cuttings
vriU be produced if you suppret;s the flowering by the
removal of the centre of the larger growths and wait
for the coming of the lateral branches at their bases.
Secure these cuttings when 2 inches or so in length.
Do not use the knife to the Onosma in any circumstances.
It is also bad for the Dianthus.
TREES AND SHRUBS.
CLEMATIS DISEASED (T. TT.K— From what you
say about your Clematis we imagine that it is suffering
from a disease common to the garden forms of the genus.
This disease causes apparently healthy plants to behave
in the manner you describe, and they usually die within
a few days. The best plan is to plant them where the
sun ivill not strike the lower part of the stem, for although
the upper branches like sun, the lower parts are easily
injured by tierce sun-heat. Nothing can be done to
improve your plant, we are afraid. Your Sweet Peas
and Green Peas are apparently attacked by some disease,
but we cannot say what disease or ad\ise about them
without seeing the plants.
SHRUBS AND CATERPILLARS U. Q. 5.).— Your
Clematis has evidently been attacked by caterpillars
or some other insect pest, the damage being done
and the caterpillars turned into chrysalides before you
noticed the injury. Your newly planted shrubs are
evidently suffering from drought : they should be kept
well watered during dry weather until properly established.
You may reduce the shoots by 9 inches or 12 inches at
the present time, as the plants appear to be suffering from
insufficient root action, though it is not absolutely necessary
to prune such shrubs as you mention the first year after
they are planted. ' A surface-dressing or mulch of well-
rotted manure will do good by keeping the soil cool and
moist.
STAPHYLEA BEARING DIFFERENT KINDS OF
FLOWERS {E. W. N.). — The specimen sent for determi-
nation is not the typical Staphylea colchica. It is
probably S. Coulombieri, which is a hybrid between
S. colchica and S. pinnata. The smaller flowers are
typical of S. pinnata, and the others of S. colchica.
Although it is not usual for the hybrid to produce two
kinds of flowers, a branch or two may have sported,
or your plant of S. colchica may have been grafted upon
S. pinnata, branches of the latter having grown from
the stock and the bush bearing typical branches of two
species. Had the two kinds of flowers appeared before,
we should have imagined it to have been a grafted plant.
PRUNING SHRUBS {E. C.).— Two distinct kinds of
shrubs are known by the name of Syringa. As a generic
name it is applied to the Lilacs, and as a common name
it is used in connection ^^^th the Philadelphuses or Mock
Oranges. We presume that you refer to the latter
shrute, and if that is the case, you may shorten the long
branches as soon as the flowers are over. As a rule, it is
only usual to thin out the branches of the taller-growing
kinds every three or four years ; but those of low gro^vth,
the Lemoinei section, are improved by having the
flowering wood cut away each year, leaving as many
strong young shoots as po.ssible. Should you refer to the
Lilac, the long shoots may be shortened when the
flowers are over, and the weak growths from the side of
the plant should be removed. It is also wise to keep the
base of the plant free from suckers.
TAKING CUTTINGS OF SHRUBS {Harry 0.).— It is
unlikely that you will be able to strike any of the plants you
mention, except Ceanothus, out of doors or in your green-
house, unless you possess a frame which can be kept
close and shaded. You may then be able to root branch
cuttings of Pittosporums, Ceanothus and Choisya ternata
at the present time, and Romneya Coulterj in spring, by
taking cuttings of the roots as thick as a lead pencil and
3 inches to 4 inches long, and inserting the pieces singly
in small pots of sandy soil. You will probably do better
by layering the lower branches of your shrubs in the borders
where they stand. When rooted, the branches can be
removed and treated as separate plants. If you order the
Viola from any of the leading nurserymen who advertise
in The Garden, you will be able to secure the number of
plants you desire. It is not unusual for the Bottle-Brush
Tree to bloom out of doors in the Isle of Wight.
AUSTRIAN PINE SHOOTS WILTING (J. 5.).— The
wilting of the*^Austrian Pine shoots appears to have been
due to the^ presence of larvae of the Pine shoot moth
(Tortrix or Retinia buoliana), but there were no larvie
in the sections sent. Probably by a careful examination
of the plants you will find the insect. All that can be
done to prevent the spread of the disease is to remove
and burn the affected shoots at once.
HYDRANGEA PANICULATA (H. T.).— This shrub does
not thrive as a pot plant for any considerable length of
time, and as it is quite hardy, you would do well to plant
it out ordoors at once in rich, loamy soil. The branches
should be pruned well back each year. As a rule, the shoots
formed the previous year are cut back to within two or
three buds of the base in February. The flowers being
borne on the current year's wood, all pruning may be
accompbshed while the plant is at rest. When the young
shoots are about three inches long, thin them out, lea^ing
but one or two of the stronger ones to each of the previous
year's shoots. As it is a rank feeding plant, provide a
surface-dressing of well-decayed manure each year after
it has[T)ecome established, and, after the buds appear, their
development may be assisted by an occa,sional application
of manure-water. It is only usual to flower plants once
in pots, and then plant them out.
THE GREENHOUSE.
INJURY TO PELARGONIUMS {Druid).— The Pelar-
goniums are attacked by a fungus near the root, leading to
the blackening of the stem. We advise you not to use
old potting soil in future for potting on the plants — not, at
least, until it has been stacked for some time, for it often
harbours plant pests.
BRUGMANSIA LEAF ATTACKED BY BED SPIDER
(Q. F.). — The Brugmansia is attacked by red spider, a
pest that is probably attacking the Salvia too. The latter
is too much dried up to enable us to be certain. You have
probably permitted the house to become too dry, and so
encouraged the red spider. A moist, buoyant atmosphere
assists in keeping this pest in check, while a dry one
encourages it. Fumigate on two occasions within four
or flve days.
TREATMENT OF ZONAL PELARGONIUMS {Zonals).—
Zonal Pelargoniums such as those indicated by you,
and which are now in 4^-inch pots, should, if potted
into 6-inch pots, make good flowering plants for the
spring and follovving summer. The main object should
be to encourage a sturdy habit of growth, and in order
to induce this the plants must have all the air possible;
indeed, they may, during the summer, be stood on a firm
bottom out of doors. The soil be-st adapted for Zonal
Pelargoniums is good fibrous loam, lightened with a little
leaf-mould or well-decayed manure and sand. The
cuttings referred to by you should make a good succession
to the larger plants.
CARNATION LEAVES DISEASED {F. C. C.).— The
Carnation leaves sent are very badly intested with that
troublesome disease known as Carnation spot. It is
generally supposed to be brought on by damp, cold climatic
conditions, from which one would be inclined to think
that your house has been kept too close, and. consequently,
the atmosphere is too mnict for the welfare of the plants.
If the ventilation of the house needs attention, this should
be seen to at once, for a buoyant atmosphere with plenty
of light is very essential to the successful culture of the
Carnation. At present we should advise you to pick
off all the leaves that are badly infested and syringe the
plants with Veltha Emulsion according to the directions
supplied with it.
PLANT FOR NAME AND TREATMENT (X. Y. Z.).~
The leaf of the plant sent for determination is a species of
Eueharis, apparently E. grandiflora, although the leaf is not
the full size for that species. The plant should be grown
in a tropical house with a minimum summer temperature
of 60° to 65°, with a winter temperature 5° lower. It
must never be allowed to become dry, as the leaves are
evergreen in character. Frequent repotting must be
avoided, as the bulbs dislike root disturbance ; but
manure-water may be given with advantage while young
leaves are being formed. Keep the atmosphere of the
house moist and syringe the leaves well twice a day,
taking care to get the water beneath as well as on the
upper surface. Do not allow insect pests to obtain a
footing, and encourage growth by every possible means.
As the^ bulbs acquire strength, flowers will be borne freely.
GREENHOUSE FLOWERS IN WINTER {A. M. Q. B.).—
There are a great many subjects that will flower during
the winter in a greenhouse maintained at a temperature
of 50° to 55". Such plants will include Carnations, Zonal
Pelargoniums, Primula sinensis in variety, P. obconica
in various forms, P. malacoides, P. kewcnsis, Cyclamens,
Bouvardias, Cinerarias, Salvias of sorts, the earlier-
flowered Azaleas (particularly Deutsche Perle) and Arum
Lilies. At the same time we vrish to point out that
it is too late now to commence the culture of any of
these plants v\ith the anticipation of their flowering
in a satisfactory manner this winter. Most of
tiicm, however, can be obtained as small plants
from many of the advertisers in The Garden, and
all that is needed is to shift them into larger pots
and place them under conditions favourable to
growth. If Koman Hyacinths are potted towards the
end of August, they will in such a structure flower during
the month of December, and much the same may be
said of the I'apcr-white Narcissi. Frecsias potted in
August are a little later in blooming, but their deliciously
fragrant blossoms are always appreciated. Such hardy
subjects as Solomon's Seal, Dielytra spectabilis and
Spiraea japonica flower beautifully in the greenhouse dur-
ing the winter and early spring months, thus anticipating
by a considerable period their normal time of flowering
out of doors. Of books such as you require, the following
can be recommended : " The Amateur's Greenhouse," by
T. W. Sanders, price 5s. 4d., and "Pictorial Greenhouse
Management," by Walter P. Wright, price Is. 9d.
ASPIDISTRA AS A TABLE PLANT (W. H.).— You can
certainly, if you wish, show an Aspidistra as a table plant ;
but, however well grov\Ti, it would be a weak feature in a
collection, as it is of too heavy a nature to compare favour-
ably with the lighter and more elegant subjects that arc
available. Such plants as Aralia Vettchii, A. fllicifolia,
Crotons of the narrow-leaved section, many Dracaenas,
and such Palms as Cocos weddelliana, Phrenix Roebelinii
and Geonoraa gracilis are far more fitted for table decora-
tion than the Aspidistra.
BEGONIA DISEASED (Somerset). —YoMi Begonia is
badly attacked by that Insidious insect known generally
as the Begonia mite, although other plants are often
affected by it. Its ravages are greatly on the increase,
and, unfortunately, it frequently does a lot of irreparable
mischief before its presence is detected. A mixture of
soft soap and nicotine, in which the plants should be dipped,
is one of the best remedies ; but a single dipping will not
suffice. On the principle that prevention is l>ettcr than
cure, the house in which the Begonias are growTi should be
occasionally vaporised with an approved vaporiser.
TREATMENT OF MANETTIA BICOLOR (IF. H.).—
From your description it would appear tliat the pkint
of 5Ianettia bicolor has been too cold during the winter,
with, perliaps, an excess of moisture at the roots TTiis
IManettia succeeds best in what is usually referred to as a
warm greenhouse ; that is to say, a structure in which the
winter temperature ranges from 50° to 65**. It v\ill succeed
in an ordinary potting compost of loam, leaf-mould and
sand, and throughout the summer will do well in an
ordinary greenhouse, or even out of doors. In your case
we should be inclined to repot the plant, taking away as
much of the old soil as possible without unduly distressing
the roots. Then, if kept rather close and shaded, with an
occasional syringing, it will, in all probability, start freely
into growth.
CHRYSANTHEMUMS : PREMATURE BUD FOR-
MATION (R. H. B.). — Some varieties show buds more
persistently than others, and, furthermore, such bud
formation is more prevalent in some years than in others.
Cuttings taken from the old stems often bear buds too
soon. With a few exceptions Nature asserts itself, and
growth shoots instead of buds take the lead, itemove
the points of the shoots bearing the buds two joints instead
of one below such buds, as shoots are more likely to grow
from the lower joints. The variety Mary Poulton is one
of the worst offenders as regards premature bud formation,
but the plants generally bear very beautiful flowers,
notwithstanding.
ASPIDISTRA LEAVES TURNING YELLOW {A. J.).—
It is quite impossible for us to tell the reason of your
Aspidistra leaves turning yellow so soon after being re-
potted. It may be that you have allowed them to get
too dry, and that might account for the trouble. Excess
of moisture would be just as bad. One prominent point
to bear in mind in the successful culture of Aspidistras
is to remember that in a state of Nature they occur on
the margins of forests and in similar positions. They
are, therefore, essentially shade-lovers, although the
mistake is frequently made of exposing them to full
sunshine. You ask if you have got wrong soil. Tl at
is a question which we, of course, cannot answer : but
full instructions were given in the article from which you
quote. It may be, too, that when the plant was divided
the roots were in a very bad condition, and if such was
the case, the old leaves would be very likely to decay
before the new roots were sufficiently developed to supply
them with nourishment.
KITCHEN GARDEN.
RUST DISEASE ON CELERY {F. IF.).— The best way
to av^oid the troublesome rust disease of Celery is to ensure
that the seed sown is not infected with the fungus, as so
much of it is. But, as a preventive, spraying the plants
at intervals of about three weeks with Bordeaux mixture,
commencing now, would be the best measure to adopt.
TOMATO SPOT DISEASE (Tomato).— The Tomatoes
are attacked by the Tomato black spot fungus. This is
encouraged (1) by too moist an atmosphere and (2) the too
free use of manure. Pick off and burn the diseased fruits,
lest the fungus spreads. Water the plants at weekly
intervals with a solution of potassium sulphate (half an
ounce to a gallon of water). Give ample ventilation.
LEAF-CURL IN TOMATOES (E7n£no«pn).— Specimens
should always accompany questions when possible.
Several diflferent causes lead to curling of foliage, and
without seeing the type of curl it is practically Impossible
to say what is its cause. The probable cause is either
interference with the water supply or a sudden change
of temperature. It may, however, bo a hereditary
trouble.
MALFORMED TOMATOES {J. B.).— No doubt one or
other of the parent plants produced malformed fruits,
and that would account for the malformed fruits you are
getting. They are quite abnormal, and not of a form tl at
could he attributed to the result of a cultural error. Wc
have found the V.T.H. slug trap a good one for cock-
roaches and crickets; but where animals are not likely (o
get to tlip dead insects, phosphorous paste on bread is
a useful poison.
GARDEN.'
-7^^
J^fel^^pA ffm>0
No. 2225.— Vol. LXXVIII.
July ii, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Mowing Lawns Without a Grass-Box. — There
seems to be great diversity of opinion as to
the use of the grass-box, particularly in hot,
dry weather. While it is true that to mow without
it on tennis or croquet lawns the grass would
certainly interfere with the play, still, on large
stretches of lawn inclined to get burnt up with
the Sim, there is much to be said for mowing
without the box, as there can be no question that
the plants derive great benefit from
cut grass being left on the lawn.
A Useful Scarlet-flowered Border
Plant. — What a free-flowering plant
Geum Mrs. Bradshaw is ! We have a
large mass of it in our garden that has
been in flower for many weeks, and
still looks as well as ever with its
large, semi-double, deep scarlet flowers.
It is easily raised from seed, and seed-
lings come true, so that a good batch
can be obtained quickly. The beautiful
double white flowered Peach-leaved
Campanula, C. Moerheimii, is also in
bloom, and as the two are growing
together, they form a pleasing contrast.
An Attractive Bramble. — Rubus
odoratus is one of the most ornamental
members of the Bramble family, forming
a rather dense, erect growth. At the pre-
sent time it is bearing its large, circular
flowers of a pleasing purplish red tinge,
and on healthy, developed specimens
they will often continue to open till
September. The large, sweet-scented
leaves are broadly five-lobed and ir-
regularly toothed, being very showy.
It is an excellent plant for growing
under the shade of trees, providing the
soil is not too dry. There is a
white variety which flowers earlier
than the type, and is worthy of
cultivation.
The Persian Rose. — What a remark-
ably fine piece of colouring is seen in this
good old plant, its rich golden hue al-
most defying description ! This notwith-
standing and a fragrance which is also
rich, the plant does not appear in every
collection, even where the old favourites are
admired to the full. We recently saw it against
the house wall in the Rectory Garden, Clapham,
near Worthing, and admired it for its richness
of colour and free flowering. Because of these
good attributes, and because, also, it has played
a part in producing the modem yellow Roses,
all who love beautiful colour in the Rose should add
it to their collection if not already there.
The Pyramidal Rockfoil. — The variety of
Saxifraga Cotyledon known as pvramidalis is
one of the most beautiful, and, incidentally,
one of the largest, of the alpine Rockfoils
in cultivation. It is very robust, and sends
out sprays from 2 feet to 4 feet long, bear-
ing innumerable white flowers that are
speckled with crimson. It grows best in
fissures between rocks, where the long, arching
look
of
well
the
SAXIFRAGA
COTYLEDON PYRAMIDALIS GROWING
FISSURE BETWEEN ROCKS.
sprays have plenty of room to develop. If
the offsets are removed, larger specimen plants
and stronger inflorescences may be obtained,
but the rosettes do not, as a rule, attain
flowering size in less than two years. It is
said that this plant attains far greater propor-
tions under , cultivation than it does in its
native rocks in the Pyrenees and other mountain
ranges of Europe.
The Musk Rose. — This rambling Rose, Rosa
moschata, is interesting and ornamental, and its
scent is delicious. At the present time it is the most
conspicuous of any of the species, with its large
clusters of white flowers almost hiding the plant.
To see it at its best it should be allowed to ramble
freely, when it will often throw out shoots 10 feet
long, which will form graceful arches of flowers the
following year. In the Botanic Garden at
Cambridge a large plant has rambled
over a Pine tree some 50 feet
high, almost hiding it with its
clusters of flowers, which
against the dark foliage
Pine.
Spiraea Henryi. — One of the most
beautiful shrubby Spiraeas of recent
introduction is S. Henryi. At the present
time this is exceedingly pretty with
its many corymbs of white flowers,
which are borne most freely on the
previous year's growth, forming beauti-
ful arching sprays 5 feet to 6 feet Jong.
Any pruning required should be done
as soon as the flowering is over, and
consists of thinning out the weak and
old wood, the idea being to obtain long,
uncrowded branches and to preserve a
loose, open habit, so as to display the
white corymbs of flower to the best ad-
vantage. It is said that the poorer
natives of Hupeh, near Ichang (where
this beautiful plant was first dis-
covered), use the leaves of it as a
substitute for tea.
The Fruit Crop in Oregon.— Th«
Board of Agriculture and Fisheries are
informed by His Majesty's Consul at
Portland, Oregon, that the estimates
of the probable Apple crop, which were
made early in the season, seem to have
been very much too large. Newtowns
blossomed heavily, but a large quantity
of the young fruit has dropped from the
trees. Spitzenbergs did not bloom so pro-
fusely, but they have set better than the
Newtowns. Arkansas Blacks have also
dropped from the trees to a great extent,
and Winesaps are beginning to do the same.
A great many Apples are showing sUght discolora-
tion on the stem, which will probably mean further
heavy falls, and it will be nearly the time of the
Apples going to market before an accurate estimate
can be made. These conditions are the results
of an early spring followed by cold, mnd and rain,
which did not prevent the fruit setting, but have
caused it to fall afterwards.
IN A
350
THE GARDEN.
[July ii, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
( The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
Tall Delphiniums. — It may interest others
to know of the extraordinary growth of some of
my Delphiniums. Two large clumps are over
ten feet in height and have flower-spikes of 3 feet
each, while the blooms themselves are very fine. —
B. Child, Ramleh, Walton-on-T!iames.
Sweet-smelling Rosaries. — In last week's issue,
page 338, there is a query with regard to sweet-
smelling rosaries. A friend of mine who has made
them has written the enclosed. He says, however,
that his experience is that they do not keep the
smell. [Put the petals (any colour or kind) into a
metal mortar, and grind them to a very fine paste.
The action of the metal will turn the pulp black.
If the pulp be not made in this way, it may be
stirred with an iron spoon or rod
until it blackens. A smooth sur-
face to the beads is secured by
very thorough pounding, and this
process can scarcely be continued
too long. The paste is then rolled
with the hands into beads. As
these shrink while drying, allow-
ance for this must be made. A
row of pins or fine wire nails are
driven through a strip of wood,
and on these the beads are stuck
while drying. The drying process
should be conducted slowly, or
the beads may crack. They should
look, when finished, as if made of
very fine charcoal. It is usual to
string them with a tiny bright
metal bead, either gold or silver
coloured, between the large ones].
— A. L. Kynaston.
Rose American Pillar. — With
reference to your remarks on
Rose American Pillar in your
issue of July 4, page 337, I
would like the members of the
Rose Conference held at the
Anglo-American Exposition,
Shepherd's Bush, to have seen
my specimen ; and had they
done so I do not think they
would have omitted to note it
as one of the most beautiful of
the Roses which have come to us
from the United States of America. I procured
ray plant from Messrs. H. Cannel! and Co. when
they introduced it a few years ago, and it has
flourished exceedingly, sending up strong canes
every season. I cut down the canes after flowering
.^nd train up the new growth to take their place.
Last year I had nine new shoots, and this year
I count over fifteen in good growth. The plant
as it now is stands from 12 feet to 14 feet high,
with a diameter of from 4 feet to 5 feet. The
canes are trained up an iron post, round which
is an old wire umbrella, cigar shape, and at the
top they meet and hang over. The canes flower
from near the ground all the way up and
in great bunches. The Rose is a hardy one. —
H. G. B., Forest Hill. S.E.
A Charming Iris Border. — At Hoddam, Dum-
friesshire, the residence of Mr. Edward J. Brook,
there was during June a magnificent display of Iris
pallida dalmatica. It is planted by itself in a
lon^:, narrow b^rdT beside the extensi^■e aviaries,
and presented a delightful appearance in the third
week of that month. From a careful calcu-
lation, made by taking a short length of average
bloom and multiplying it by the entire length
of the border, after deducting a considerable
number for errors, there must have been at least
4,000 blooms open at one time in this border.
The flowers were of full size, and it can be realised
by those who know this handsome Fleur-de-Lis
how magnificent was the display afforded by this
border. The plants have been in the same position
for several years, and have been left without
breaking them up. They have done better this
year than ever before. — S. Arnott.
New Rambling Roses. — I do not think " Dane-
croft," whose article appeared on page 317, issue
June 20, can know Neige d'Avril or Fraulein
Octavia Hesse, or he would not say " we have
no good white in that section." The former was
sent out, I think, in 1908, and is one of the
y »4
OLEARIA STELLULATA IN THE CAMBRIDGE BOTANIC GAKUK.Ni
finest pure white rambling Roses — flowering on
June 20 — that it is possible to see. I know of no
variety to equal it in any way. The growth is
vigorous. My plant is ro feet high, with hand-
some, deep green leaves, which form a good ba^e
for its clusters of pure white blooms above. The
trusses vary in number from five to twelve. The
individual flowers measure 2 inches across, and
with the deep yeUow anthers are superb in appear-
ance and deliciously fragrant. I do not know
the origin of this Rose. It was sent to me for
trial by Messrs. Bide and Son, Famham, and right
well it deserves to be more widely known. Fraulein
Octavia Hesse belongs to the wichuraiana section,
but is exceptionally early flowering for that type,
being with me fully developed by the middle of
June. Singly the flowers are fully 3 inches in
diameter and much like those of Kaiserin Augusta
Victoria when quite open, and although it pro-
duces a few smaller flowers on the same truss,
it is not a cluster Rose like sy the illustration
below.
It is another thing, of course — savouring of
incongruity and of much bad taste — when the
modem antique, the carefully broken Victorian
pavement stone, that of finely ground granite
and cement, is introduced and associated with
A PAVED GARDEN NEAR THE RIVERSIDE AT HARLEYFORD, BUCKS.
too early to say whether it will prove as hardy as
O. Aquifolium. The other new species, O. Delavayi,
is a very different plant. Found in Yunnan,
it is said to attain a height of 6 feet in that country,
although it grows slowly here. It is distinct from
other kinds by having its fragrant, white flowers
produced from the points of the branches, as well
as from the axils, in spring.
PLANTS FOR PAVED
WALKS.
THE paved walks of the garden are in
large degree a modem innovation,
copies or imitations, doubtless, of those
which have done duty as such — whether
for the sake of convenience or ex-
pediency it matters not — for a century
or more in wayside cottage gardens in all parts
of our delightful rural England. And, moreover,
they supply a want and have come to stay. In the
first place, properly conceived and executed in
buildings genuinely antique, or even decidedly
modem. In such instances the practised eye
of the true garden artist or landscape gardener
will at once miss the time-worn, unequal comers
of the older flags, just as the hand of the con-
noisseur of antique furniture will miss and decide
by touch alone whether the example before him
is genuinely antique or not. In both Time has
played a part, robbed or divested each of their
sharp, rigid edges, moulded and fashioned them
as Nature does in her own sweet way to the hill-
sides by which we are surrounded. Hence to
get hold of the right material at the start is an
important matter, and, if not reasonably attain-
able, then I would say, forsake all idea of pavement
stone and accept the flattish rock formations of
Nature instead. These, if more rugged of surface,
will at least be less formal generally, while the
interstices their irregular outlines afford will
prove the best of abiding-places for the plants
we have in mind.
The walks themselves — the stones — -are, how-
ever, of fimdamental importance. These constitute
the setting, and the setting should be worthy of
the gems ; hence the need of a rightful conception
366
THE GARDEN.
[July i8, 1914.
of the whole, so that the one may be truly weddfd
to the other, as though part of Nature's own. I
have seen it otherwise • — detected again and
again in these matters attempts to wed May to
December, with, as usual, the most disastrous
results. I have also seen instances, even where
the stones have been of the right kind, of that
species of overplanting — it has its parallel in the
civer-jewellcd fingers of the newly rich — which so
crowds every crack and cranny with vegetable life
as to make these pathways impossible or imprac-
ticable. There is no need for either. The preser-
vation of the pathway as such is essential. It
should never be nullified by foot-high plants at
flowering-time, nor by others whose roundly
cushioned tufts render high stepping or picking
one's way necessary. These, indeed, are some
of the things to avoid, some of the things
the mure intelligently planted of these flagged
ways there is no need for either, and the pedestrian
should be able to pursue his way \vithout regard
to where the next step should be placed. In a
word, though the selection of good plants is not
large, there is enough for the purpose, ample to
keep the central tread or the great proportion of
the path quite free of large-growing things. In
certain instances the sides of the paths or steps,
should such exist, might be ornamented by some
of the plants I have tabooed, using them in
moderation, without attempting the herb garden in
terrace walk or pergola path. Aubrietias and Mossy
Saxifrages and their like in growth are too large,
and they show to better advantage elsewhere.
Seeds of such things as Erin us and the miniature-
growing Dianthi, among others, might be sown,
though usuallv little bits of plants so inserted
THE DIANTHUSES
PINKS.
OR
THE WILD FORM OF THE GARDEN PINK (dIANTHUS PLUMARIUS).
which, if thoughtlessly indulged in, make these
pleasing phases of a garden less a pleasure than
they might have been.
In the wayside cottage garden the chief garniture
of these flagged ways is not infrequently moss,
hchen, or indigenous Spergula or similar thing,
and their dwarfness should prove an invaluable
object-lesson to the gardener. It is another
thing altogether, far beyond the limits of good
taste, or taste at all, when one is confronted by
Corydalis, Candytuft, Mossy Saxifrages in high
mounded cushions. Lemon Thyme, foot-high
Campanulas and Dianthuses, Rock Roses and
others, through whose maze of tufts much steering
is necessary to avoid them. In one instance
I remember a party of visitors avoided the path
and took to the adjoining turf, to the discomfiture
and annoyance of the owner. As a fact, however,
pedestrianism in the ordinary way was a dis-
comfort— I had almost said impossible. In
as to thread their way among the cracks of the
stones will be found the better method for planting.
Tufts of plants should never be inserted whole.
The object is to garnish the sides of the stones,
not to obliterate the latter from view ; hence the
value of " little bits " along their margins. The
following are some good plants, though there is
no pretension to a complete list : Sedum corsicum,
S. brevifolium, S. Lydium, S. hispanicum glaucum,
Erinus, Linaria pilosa, L. hepaticaefolia, Dianthus
caesius, D. arvemensis. Thymus Serpyllum cocci-
neum. Paronychia serpyUifolia, P. Kapela
(both ideal carpeters), Leptinella scariosa, Mentha
Requienii (a veritable and fragrant gem), Arenaria
balearica (preferably where it could climb steps
or side walls). Campanula pulla, C. pusilla in variety,
Draba aizoides (seeds or plants), Helxine Solierolii.
Acaena microphylla, and Antennaria tomentosa,
which is highly ornamental used in conjunction
with red sandstone. E. H. Jenkins.
{Continued from page 353.)
D. plumariUS. — The wild form of llie garden
Pink, D. plumarius, has rose flowers and is single.
There are, as is well known, many double varieties
which please the grower of border flowers. At
present we may draw attention to a number of
beautiful single varieties for the rockery, the wall,
or the edging. A packet of seeds will give many
varieties, ranging from white to crimson, and
many with deep-coloured zones. Named single
varieties, such as Beauty, Dove, Duchess of Fife,
&c., are very fine. Cyclops, which comes wonder-
fully true from seeds, is very showy.
D. Seguieri. — One of the Pinks which is best
for rather large rockwork. It grows
from 12 inches to 18 inches high,
with two to four flowers together
on the stems. They are pink, with
a purple centre. It looks well near
the top of a wall or on high
rockwork. Flowers from June to
.August.
D. squarrosus. — This has clear
lilac flowers on stems about a foot
high, and, though not one of the
best, is an easy Dianthus to grow
almost anywhere. It has fringed
petals, and flowers from June
onwards.
D. SUaviS. — One of the Dian-
thuses which attract everyone by
their habit and fragrance is D. suavis.
It makes a close mat of small,
grass-like leaves, which hang prettilv
over the stones, and are covered
in the summer with a multitude
of little, fringed, white flowers.
Easy to grow.
D. SUbacaulis. — I have not grown
this plant, which seems a good doer
on the rockery. It has rose flowers
on 6-inch stems, and makes a spiny-
looking tuft of narrow grassy leaves.
D. superbus. — Unfortunately, not
very long-lived as a rule, but pleas-
ing all by its fragrant, whitish rose,
deeply fringed flowers. It should be
raised often from seeds, as it usually
dies after flowering. It will grow
almost anywhere. The flowers
appear from May to August.
D. tener. — One of the prettiest of the small
alpine Pinks, which has very small, cheery-looking
pink flowers oix stems of a wiry nature, and from
3 inches to 4 inches in height. It is good for a
dry, gritty rockery or the moraine.
D. zonatus. — ^This is an easy plant to grow
on the rockery or moraine. It comes freely from
seeds, and can also be raised from cuttings.
It has grassy leaves and large flowers of blush or
pink with a dark zone. It varies slightly in
colour from seeds, but is very easily cultivated in
a light soil, and prefers lime. Flowers in the
summer.
A number of other good, easily grown Pinks
are sometimes offered. These include D. furcatus,
D. hirtus, D. intermedins, D. noeanus, D. pallens,
D. pinifolius, D. pungens, D. siculus, D. Simsii,
D. tenuifolius, D. Waldsteinii and D. Wimmeri.
Dumfries. S. Arnott.
{To be continued.)
ihplciucut to THE GARDEN, July iS///, 1914
THREE TULIP SPECIES:
Yellow: T. Batalinii.
Red & White: T. clusiana.
Small Red: T. chrysantha (Kew),
also known as T. stellata.
hcilrns. Ltd.. Printers. Lnndoii. S.E.
July i8, i9I4'
THE GARDEN.
367
SOME EASILY GROWN
TULIP SPECIES.
COLOURED PliATB 1498.
UNTIL Mr. W. R. Dykes, of Iris fame,
has completed his Herculean task
of growing all the so-called species
(>( Tulips from seed, we cannot say
for certain of any Tulip, except
a very few, " this is a species." This
is the present state of our knowledge. Before the
Neo-tulips of Italy or Savoy can be considered as
having specific rank, we have " a deal to learn."
In these notes I use the term
" species " in the old-fashioned,
loose way, which, as we have no
other at present, we must perforce
stick to. I am sorry to say that
I have to write in rather a pessi-
mistic vein about the grand species
which have come to us within
the last two or three decades from
Turkestan, Bokhara, Persia and
elsewhere. Great hopes were
raised at Wisley when fosteriana
(immense scarlet) first bloomed.
I remember so well Mr. S. T.
Wright telling me that he thought
it would be a good doer, and that
his half-dozen bulbs had formed
offsets. He has not mentioned
T. fosteriana lately. Put what
construction you like upon this
silence, I feel sure that there are
few, if any, gardens where T.
fosteriana, T. Eichleri and, I may
almost add, T. Greigii, really
flourish. They may be kept alive,
but that is all. It has been sug-
gested that they are by nature
a short-lived race and perpetuate
themselves always in their own
homeland by seed. They are, how-
ever, so magnificent that I plead
for them as luxuries, just to be
indulged in when one is " flush."
All have large flowers and are of
a brilliant shade of crimson or
scarlet. T. mauriana, the lovely
bright red with a pure yellow
base, from Savoy, thrives and
increases, and is one of the most
brilliant of all Tulips ; but is it
a true species ? The Bokharian
prtestans is a bright vermilion,
base and all, and has several
flowers on a stem. It is the best
doer of what I venture to call the
true large red species type. I have
seen it grow fairly when left for two
or three years in light soil, and with lifting it every
year myself in my heavier land I am able to keep
it. Kaufmanniana (the Water Lily Tulip), usually
a pale primrose, although there are bright red
and deep yeUow forms, can usually be relied upon.
It flowers in early spring and seems quite at home
in our gardens, although it is not a very rapid
increaser. The smaller Tulips, as a rule, behave
better. Clusiana and Batahnii certainly do, and
they may be established on a rockery where they
will get a good resting-place in summer. Chrysantha
I have not grown myself, but I am told it is not
such a good doer as the others. Dasystemon
is the most satisfactory of all. It is a very dwarf
grower, and generally has more than one flower
upon a stem ; good, strong bulbs ought to throw
three or even four. The exterior of the blooms
is a sort of green, while the interior is pure wliite
with a large yellow base. Clusiana, or the Lady
Tulip, is very pleasing ; it has bright rosy red
marks on its external petals and a claret-coloured
base. Batahnii is a sort of first cousin to the
brilliant linifoha. I am told they come from
different valleys in Central Asia, and tliat various
gradations in colour are to be found among them.
Mr. E. A. Bowles has two or tliree very pretty
varieties in the rockery at Myddelton House. I
do not think they increase, but they come up
chrysantha, persica (small, dwarf deep yellow)
and the Algerian primuUna (yellowish white)—
are Didieri (pointed, crimson), Didiori alba (pure
wliite) and Marjoletti (pale yellow, witli rose
blotches at the base of the petals). These may all
l)e usefully used in suitable positions in rockwork,
and in light soil will probably take care of them-
selves. T. Sprengeri seems to stand in a class by
itself. It is very late in flowering and of a bright
scarlet colour. I find this goes on for some years
without being much the worse, and as it is a valuable
addition to the summer flora at a rather sparse
time, it is one that should be tried. I recommend
it for clumps in borders. It seeds freely ; in fact,
most of the species do. Seeds
readily germinate, but the lengthy
period of waiting is deterrent.
However, like it is with Daffodils,
once the first weary wait is over,
if the sowing is annual, a reguLir
succession of seedlings may be kept
up. Joseph Jacob.
[We are indebted to Messrs. Barr
and Sons, King Street, Covent
Garden, W.C, for the flowers of the
interesting Tulip species from which
our coloured p ate has been pre-
pared.— Ed.]
DIANTHUS DUCHESS OF FIFE IN THE ROCK GARDEN.
yearly and do not die. Chrysantha, if I remember
rightly, was shown last spring by Messrs. Barr
and Sons. It is a pretty red and yellow, and is
well worth a trial, although 1 cannot say much
about it from personal experience. Sir J. D.
Hooker, in his " Flora of British India," says the
bulbs are eaten in Baluchistan. It takes one back
to those first planted in Holland in 1571. The
Dutch in those days thought they had got
hold of something to eat, and the first
Tulips were promptly planted in a kitchen
garden.
Three lovely and dainty Tulips which might
be added to the above — clusiana, Batalinii, linifolia.
TWO FINE CLIMBING
TEA ROSES.
In the fine Rose gardens of M. Ber-
naix there is what 1 believe to be
the original plant of Souvenir dc
Mme. Leonie Viennot growing as
a huge bush, all bespangled with
its lovely blooms. This is a de-
lightful variety, its blossoms,
a lovely yellow, passing to
amber and shaded cochineal.
They are not too full and are
of perfect form. A friend ^vrit-
ing from New South Wales
says that grown on its own
roots this variety is perpetually
in bloom, whereas budded on
Briar it is but a spring flower. I
am convinced we need to give more
heed to the question of stock,
and I have no doubt in my
own mind that far superior
results would follow the culture
of many somewhat erratic Roses
if they could be grown on their own
roots. At present this is not a com ■
mercial success, seeing that the cut
tings must be rooted under glass in
this country ; but possibly it may
some day suit the grower to
raise such Roses in quantities.
In the meantime any amateur who can spare
a small propagatmg-frame in his greenhouse
would do well to strike a few of such Roses as
he finds difiicult to grow in the ordinary way.
The other fine climber I should like to direct
attention to is Souvenir de Mme. Joseph Metral.
For size of bloom it has no equal. The flowers
are very double, of grand exhibition shape
and of a lovely cherry red colour, shaded
crimson and vermilion. The Rose may be
grown as a free bush, but its flowers need
support, as they are so heavy. It is fine on
a south or west wall, and would also make an
excellent standard. Danecroft.
368
THE GARDEN.
[July iS, 1914.
SWEET PEA NOTES.
Summer Treatment and Exhibiting. — By the
time these notes appear, the Sweet Pea enthusiast
will be either rejoicing in a display of magniticent
flowers and eagerly anti:^ipating the near approach-
ing floral contests, or he is miserably disappointed
by dire failures. In this latter case, rarely does
lie assign the blame to the right cause. Seldom
will a grower admit that his ignorance or careless
neglect has been mainly the cause of his unlucky
disaster. Yet in the few instances of partial
nr total failure I have met with this season, almost
every one could be attributed to the fact that the
grower (neglecting the warning so oft repeated in
these columns) made the mistake of working and pre-
paring his soil when in an unfit condition ; conse-
quently, the drought, succeeding the verj' wet wea-
ther of March, baked his so'l into huge, solid lumps,
in which it was impossible for the Sweet Peas to gi"ow.
On the other hand, in the majority of gardens the
Sweet Peas are better than they were last year.
Increased Popularity is evidenced by the
number of extra classes one finds devoted to
his Sweet Peas well into bloom by the latter week
of June, and then maintaining a succession of
flowers weU into the autumn. To attain this,
the plants must be kept in a growing state. No
seed-pod must be allowed to form, and all mal-
formed flowers should be rigidly cut off. Give
a syringing frequently to prevent the hardening
and drying of the haulm, and applications of
liquid manures (a little and often) will ensure the
plants growing well into the autumn. Nitrate
of soda and sulphate of ammonia sprinkled upon
the soil (about an ounce to the square yard) before
watering will materially help to promote new growths
after several pickings have been taken. I have by
these means often picked fine blooms in October
from plants that commenced flowering early in July.
Exhibiting. — I have often felt that it is one
thing to have first quality Sweet Peas growing
in the garden, but a totally different thing to so
stage them at an exhibition that they win the
merited award. What is the reason for this ?
In the first place, too many exhibitors make
the fatal mistake of attempting too much. Often
have I advised would-be exhibitors to content
digested. If compelled to use a weak blossom, do
not conceal it. The judge is sure to "spot " it, and
then follows a closer scrutiny. Unless the rules
compel a fixed number, use fewer sprays rather
than stage weak ones. Finally, look at the
National Sweet Pea Society's Too-much-alike
List and do not stage synonymous varieties ;
do not neglect to correctly label your exhibits,
and be sure to read the schedule of the show and
obev the rules. S. M. Crow.
NEW ROSES
"NATIONAL"
AT TH
SHOW.
THERE was nothing very startlingly new
at the National Rose Society's show held
on Tuesday of last week, and a report
of which appears on another page. At
the same time, there were a number o|
very good seedlings shown, and the
following recei\'ed awards from the judges.
Augustus Hartman. — .A seedling Hybrid Tea
of vigorous habit with stout, bushy stems. Said
Mrs. Bertram Walker.
Margaret Dickson Humill.
THREE GOLD MEDAL ROSES.
Augustus Hartman.
Sweet Peas in the schedules of the summer shows.
Also one could not help feeling a throb of pleasure
as one stood on a railway terminus station in
London a few days ago and saw the number of
people either wearing a button-hole of Sweet
Peas or carrying bunches of them. The National
Sweet Pea Society has accomplished a grand
work, and at its show on July i6 at West-
minster will be seen all the choicest and newest
Sweet Peas, and no lover of this flower should
miss this opportunity of seeing them.
Summer Culture. — During dry weather continue
to give a thorough soaking twice or thrice a week,
alternating with a good hoeing. After several
pickings have been made, the plants require a
restorative and a stimulant ; therefore give either
liquid manure or any of the prepared foods as
recommended in my previous notes. Also remem-
bei that a mulch of well-decayed manure or spent
Hops adds extra nutrition and materially helps
to iir'^vent loss of moisture.
Extension of Flowering Period. — Every grower,
except he be a. seedsman, should aim at getting
themselves with a six class rather than put up a
weak dozen. It is true this advice has frequently
been coldly received, ofttimes rejected. Yet I
am convinced that it is a mistake to try too large
a class, or to show in too many classes. Secondly,
many exhibitors fail to recognise the superiority
of a fresh Ai quality three-flowered spray over
a coarse, faded four. But such is a fact. Do
not stage a weak four if you have an excellent
three bloom spray. Again, it is essential that
the exhibitor who means to have the premier
award stages only those varieties that will success-
fully withstand the vitiating atmosphere of the
show tent, and this knowledge can only be obtained
by experiment, noting the behaviour of each
variety (i) during transit, (2) in water, (3) in a
hot, humid or dry atmosphere, and (4) in a draught.
Of course, this entails a fair amount of labour
and trouble, but it means all the difference between
an honour or a blank ; therefore know your Sweet
Peas. Other points were fully dealt with in last
week's issue (page 351) by Mr. Thomas Stevenson,
whose advice should be carefully considered and
to be perpetual flowering and good for exhibition
or bedding. The blooms are large, deep and
slightly conical in the centre, the indixadual petals
being very large. The colour is rich glowing
vermilion scarlet, reminding us in this respect
of George C. Waud. The fragrance, though not
powerful, is very pleasing. Shown by Messrs.
B. R. Cant and Sons, Colchester. Gold medal.
Margaret Dickson Hamill. — A seedling Hybrid
Tea, good for exhibition or bedding. The plant
as shown has a very branching habit and spin\-
stems, but the blooms are not too erect. They
are of good size and substance, fairly full and
slightly conical. Colour, yellow, flushed with
apricot. Not very fragrant, though slightly
Tea-scented. Shown by Messrs. Alex. Dickson
and Sons, Hawlmark, Newtownards. Gold
medal.
Clytemnestra. — A seedling Hybrid Tea suitable
for garden purposes and said to be perpetual
flowering. A cluster Rose, the blooms being
produced in large trusses. The open flowers
arc of ragged shape and of blush white, flushed
July i8, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
369
WATER AND ROCK-
WORK IN A SMALL
GARDEN.
'' I '"^1
AN EFFECTIVE VIEW IN A READER'S GARDEN.
apricot colour. Shown by the Rev. J. H. Pember-
ton, Havering-atte-Bower. Gold medal.
Majestic. — A seedling Hybrid Tea of vigorous,
upright habit with stout, spiny stems. The
flowers are large, deep, of good substance, slightly
corneal in shape, and very sweet scented. The
colour is glowing soft vermilion pink. Shown
by Messrs. William Paul and Son, Limited,
Waltham Cross, Herts. Gold medal.
Mrs. Bertram Walker. — A seedling Hybrid
Tea of erect branching habit, and said to be
perpetual flowering. The flowers are borne on
stout, erect stems, and are of medium size, have
plenty of depth and substance, and are of rather
conical habit. The colour is a glowing cerise pink.
Shown by Hugh Dickson, Limited. Gold medal.
Mrs. Maud Dawson. — A large Hybrid Tea
seedling of branching, dwarf habit and evidently
free flowering. Said to be good for bedding
or exhibition ; certainly it will be excellent for
the latter purpose. The blooms are very full
and conical, and leave nothing to be desired in
shape. Colour, deep bright crimson. Very
fragrant. Shown by Messrs. Alex. Dickson and
Sons, Hawlmark, Newtownards. Silver-gilt medal.
Dorothy Varden. — A hybrid rugosa, making
a large shrub or bush 4 feet to 5 feet high and
said to be perpetual flowering. The blooms are
freely produced, semi-double and slightly fragrant.
The half - open flowers are glowing apricot
salmon pink, changing to a much paler shade
as they age. Shown by Messrs. George Paul and
Sons, Cheshunt. Certificate of merit.
Mrs. Arthur Bide.— A seedling Hybrid Tea,
the result of a cross between Mrs. T. W. Massey
and Souv. de Catherine Guillot. Habit vigorous
and branching, and said to be perpetual flowering.
Might be aptly described as a double Irish Elegance.
Only slightly fragrant. Shown by Messrs. A.
Bide and Sons, Limited. Certificate of merit.
HE small pond shown in
the illustration is a very
effective feature in a
little villa garden of the
usual rectangular type.
On three sides it is sur-
rounded by rockwork facing south-
west. At the very top a Clematis
(Viticella) is planted and trained
over trellis-work. It has to be
vigorously cut back below, or it
\vould soon smother the whole
rockery. At its foot is a small Gorse
bush, which flowers intermittently,
as it does on our commons. " When
the Gorse is out of bloom, kissing's
out of season." A little lower
there are, to right and left, patches
of purple Aubrietia, and, contrasting
well with its fine glaucous " grass,"
a tuft of Pinks. Among and be-
tween these are Daffodils ; the
flowers were just over and cut when
the photograph was taken, but the
long leaves show plainly. There is a
big patch of Iberis sempervirens
(perennial Candytuft) in full bloom
in the middle of the picture, and just
above, and to the left, a strong clump
of the wild yellow Iris of our English
brooks. It is in flower in June, and the seed-
vessels are very decorative later on, though, if
left, they scatter much seed, and a careful removal
of seedlings is necessary. To the right, above the
Iris, is the old familiar double white Arabis, tumb-
ling down that side of the rockery like a sheet of
snow. I cut it well back after flowering, as it is a
great invader. At the right edge the lea^•es of
a pale blue (Kalway) Larkspur can be seen.
The water is just below the large Iris group ; but
an Iris with very narrow leaves and veined purple
flowers in June, planted at the near edge, hides much
of it. Some plants of Leucojum vernum are in
flower a little to the right of the Iris, and then the
dark red, early growtlis of a very fine Astilbe
rivularis, a sort of giant and hardy Spiraja, fill up
the space to the edge. They grow 2 feet or 3 feet
high, are very much divided and graceful, and the
flower rises to 5 feet — a great toss of creamy
inflorescence in summer. In front, to the right, is
a clump of self-sown Solidago (Golden Rod) that will
grow too tall and must be elimuiated, and it joins
on to a large piece of Cone-flower (Rudbeckia),
which flowers in autumn. It is also too tall when
fuUy grown, and should liave a place elsewhere,
as it hides the water. Then, very much mixed up
together, but all thriving on the steep slope,
are Wallflowers, spring Forget-me-nots (removed
when out of bloom), Sedum rupestre, Loudon
Pride and a white-flowered Carnation. Tlie
Sedum (rosy purple) flowers from September
right on till November. A tiny, low-growing
Campanula (pumila alba) lies like moss on the
ground to the extreme left. Hardly visible,
there is also a great deal of Myosotis palustris, the
summer-flowering Forget-me-not, which begins to
bloom in June, and has large, handsome flowers.
The Water Lily, shown in the other illustration
of the surface of the pond only, is Nymphasa
Helvola rosea. The leaves are coppery and quite
small, but the flowers are a good size and have
deep rose centres and yellow stamens. It flowers
well, but would not do so if the surrounding plants
overshadowed it, and that is one reason why only
low-growing plants should be to the south of the
pond side. The handsome leaves of a Funkia,
growing under the Astilbe, are also visible in
this picture, and the leaves of an ornamental
striped grass. Between them and the Iris, the flat,
disc-like leaves of Kingcups (Caltha palustris).
may be noticed. There is a Water Plantain also
in the pond, but it does not show, nor a piece of
Buckbean I have lately introduced. M. W. S.
WATER LILY POOL IN A VILLA GARDEN.
370
THE GARDEN.
[July i8, 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
Grapes which are quite ripe will require some
protection from smi, in order to keep them in good
condition for as long a time as possible. If ordi-
nary garden nets are available, they will answer
the purpose well, as besides shading the ripe Grapes
they will be the means of preventing birds from
entering the vineries and picking the berries.
Ventilate freely, and only employ sufficient fire-
heat to dispe! moisture during damp weather.
Strawberry Plants for early forcing should be
potted into 6-inch pots as soon as ready. Wash
the pots and crocks before they are used, and make
the soil finn without breaking the small ball of
soil. Turfy loam, with a small quantity of decayed
horse-manure, will suit them well. A sprinkling of
bone-meal mixed with the soil will be an advantage.
After potting, the plants should be placed in a
shaded position and syringed twice daily while
dry weather lasts.
The Flower Garden.
Pentstemons. — These plants are pushing up
their flower-spikes, and should be encouraged by
frequent applications of clear water at the roots.
Keep the surface soil stirred with the Dutch hoe,
and secure the flower-spikes to neat sticks before
they are injured by rough wind.
Carnations. — Border Carnations will now require
attention to tying up the flower-spikes. Keep
the Dutch hoe at work among the plants, and if
dry weather continues, give a good watering of
clear, soft water. The layering of next season's
plants should be accomplished as early as possible,
in order to allow the young plants to become
established in their flowering quarters before the
season is too far advanced.
Sweet Peas. — These plants must receive a
liberal supply of moisture at the roots during dry
weather. Manure-water from the farmyard may
be freely applied, but never of sufficient strength
t<.) injiure the young roots. If decayed manure is
available, a good mulching should be given previous
to a soaking of clear, soft water. As the flowers
die off, the seed-pods must be removed, in order
to prolong the flowering period. Keep the stems
close to the supports, so that the leading shoots
may always grow in an upright direction. Weak
soot-water is an excellent stimulant.
Spring-flowering Plants, such as Wallflowers,
.Myosotises, Polyanthuses and Violas, which have
lieen raised from seed should now be ready for
pricking off. This must be carefully performed,
and the plants watered before they have time to
flag. Frequent damping wiU be necessary until
the plants become re-established.
The Rock Garden.
Watering. — Plants in exposed positions must
receive careful attention to watering, which should
be applied through a fine rose, so that the soil
luay not be washed from its position. Cut over all
plants as they pass out of flower, and proceed with
the propagation of young stock for spring planting.
Alpine Popples. — These, Papaver alpinum,
are now flowering freely, and present a very attrac-
tive appearance in the rock garden. They are
easily raised from seed, which may be sown
n(jw to produce plants for flowering next season.
Auriculas. — Spring-sown seedlings should now
he potted singly in small, clean pots and encouraged
to grow freely. Care must be taken to protect the
young plants from sun. Repotting of old stock
should be carefully attended to, and the small
offsets of choice varieties be placed under a hand-
light, where they are almost certain to take root.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Young Fruit Trees which were planted in
spring must be well supplied with moisture at
tlie roots during dry weather, and, if not already
done, a mulching of farmyard manure should be
applied at once. SjTinge the trees as often as
circumstances will permit, either in the early
morning or evening. Yoimg trees planted against
south or west walls must have daily attention in
this matter, or they may suffer seriously and become
permanently stunted.
Raspberries. — The crop is ripening fast, and
should be secured as s*»on as ri])e and per-
fectly dry for preserving. Fruits required for
dessert should be carefully netted, and if pro-
tection from strong-sun can be provided, so much
the better. If the shoots have gro%vn freely, they
may be tied in such a way as to partly shade the
fruits witbtiut making the covering too dense.
When the crop has been gathered, all the old
fruiting stems should be removed and the young
shoots secured to wires or sticks. Four or five good
strong shoots will be sufficient for each plant, as
overcrowding must he avoided if good results are
desired.
The Kitchen Garden.
Celery. — The principal plantation of Celery
should now be finished, and if dry weather prevails,
the plants must receive constant attention to
watering. Earth up the early plants as soon as
large enough, taking care to keep the hearts of the
plants quite free from soil.
Leeks. — Plants intended for winter use must
now be put in drills r8 inches apart and r2 inches
between the plants in the row. Plants intended
for large specimens should now be ready for earth-
ing up. This must be done several times during
the season. The Leek is a gross feeding plant,
and will repay the cultivator for liberal treatment.
Water freely with liquid manure. Soot-water is
also a good stimulant for this crop.
Parsley for winter supplies ought to be sown as
early in the month of August as possible. When
the crop has grown a few inches high, the plants
should be cut close to the ground, so that a quantity
of sturdy leaves may be produced, as these will
stand the winter better than long, spindly growth.
If a cold pit is available, the seedlings may be
thinned out and transplanted into the cold pit
for use in rough wintry weather.
Endive. — The principal sowing shotild now be
made and the plants thinned and transplanted.
As soon as ready, some part of this plantation may
be made where protection can be given diu'ing
winter.
French Beans. — These should now be planted
in cold pits for use during October. Plant in
rows 2 feet apart, and keep the lights off until
the approach of frost.
Globe Artichokes. — Give liberal waterings of
liquid manture, and cut as soon as large enough,
whether they are required for use or not.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Watering. — The heavy rams which fell in
many parts of the country dmring the latter part
of June were the means of savhig many of the
vegetable crops, which had been suffering severely.
They will now be growing freely, and with many
of the choicer vegetables, such as Peas, Celery
and Cauliflower, occasional waterings with liquid
manure will be very beneficial. If this cannot
be secured, good results may be had from sulphate
of ammonia at the rate of an ounce to the gallon
of water, or, if used in a powdered state, an ounce
to the square yard would be sufficient.
Late Peas. — The latest-sown Peas will require
special attention just at present, as, if allowed
to become dry, the crop is more than likely to end
in failure. If manure can be had, it will be well
to spread some on each side of the row, afterwards
giving a plentiful supply of water, which will
ward off attacks from mildew.
Small Salads. — Continue to make a small sowing
of Radish once a fortnight, and for Mustard and
Cress a sowing may be made once a week.
The Flower Garden.
Wallflowers. — The young seedlings should now
be ready for pricking out, as, unless they were
very thinly sown, the yoimg plants soon become
drawn and spindly. Prick out in soil of a free-
rooting medium made moderately firm, about
3 inches apart and 9 inches between the rows;
at least, a sufficient width to allow the hoe to ply
between them. The aim should be to build up
nice sturdy little plants that will withstand severe
winter weather.
Roses. — The season so far has been favoiurable
to Rose-growers, although some of the varieties
have been more or less attacked by mildew.
which not only renders them imsightly, but has
a very weakening effect on the plants. I find
most of those affected have suffered from dr\'ness
at the roots. Now that many of the earlier blooms
will be over, the faded flowers should be picked off
and the shoots slightly shortened. They will
be the better for liberal applications of liquid
maniure, or, failing that, some approved Rose
manure. I have used fish manure with verj-
good results.
Spring Bedding Plants. — A number of those
sown last month should be almost ready for
pricking off, and, as in the case of most plants
that have to stand the winter, it is of the utmost
importance to have them well rooted.
Codonopsis ovata. — This plant, with its
strikingly beautiful blooms, will now be going
out of flower, and the flower-stems should be
shortened to induce it to break into growth
again. Perhaps its proper position is in the wall
garden or hanging over stones in the rockerj',
where the beauty of its flowers can be better
seen. It is an old-fashioned plant, but one that
is well worth a place in any collection.
Plants Under Glass.
Cyclamen. — The most forward of the old
plants will be rooting freely, and will be greatly
assisted with an occasional watering with soot-
water, which I find not only strengthens the
foliage, but also tends to keep the soil sweet.
Admit air freely now, and on fine nights the
lights may be drawn down, when the plants will
derive much benefit from the evening dews. Seed-
lings from last August sowing should be ready for
potting on into 6-inch pots. After potting,
keep them close for a time, syringing twice daily.
Poinsettias. — By this time all the yoimg
plants should be rooted, and the most forward
ready for potting on into 4-inch pots. As soon
as they have taken to the new soil, expose them
to sun and air, so as to encourage a sturdy growth.
Show Pelargoniums. — Those plants that ha\e
flowered and have been placed in frames or out-
side should now be sufficiently ripened so that
they may be cut back and placed in frames till
growth commences. After this they may be
shaken out and repotted. Replace them in
frames and water very carefully for a time ; indeed,
a syrmging twice daily will keep them moist enough
for a week or so.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Strawberries. — No time should be lost in
securing rimners for planting either in the autumn
or the following spring. If suitable ground were
available, they could be planted right away.
Where, however, this is not possible, tlu-y may
be run into niursery lines in a well-prepared burdur,
and, should the weather be dry, they will require
copious suppUes of water from time to time.
Wall Trees. — The heavy rain experienced in
many districts some weeks ago has had a very
beneficial effect on all wall fruit trees. Not only
lias it cleansed the foliage of insect pests, but it
has caused the fruit X\> swell nicely. Attention
must be paid to stopping the shoots and laying
in those required to furnish the walls. The
regulation of shoots on Morello Cherries should
be seen to at once, and protect the fruit with nets
without delay.
Fruits Under Glass.
The Orchard-House. — Pot trees will require
very careful attention now, particularly those
approaching the ripening stage. In the case of
the latter, artificial feeding should be discontinued,
as well as the use of the syringe. .Apples and
Pears should have their fruits supported with raffia,
and in the case of the former the pots
should be plunged in ashes out of doors to finish
the colouring of the fruits. \ temporary erection
should be put up, ^i\-er which a net can lie thrciwu
to protect the fruits from birds.
Melons. — Young plants raised from seed,
which in most cases will form the last batch,
should be planted out without delay. 1 find it
useful to put a few plants in large p. its and
grow them in odd comers, and from these a service-
able supply of fruit can always l>e depended on.
For this late batch the leading shoot should be
stopped at about three feet, to induce the plants
to throw out laterals more quickly.
John Hiohoati;.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopftonn Gardens, South Qiwensferry, N.B.
July i8, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
371
ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
MISCELLANEOUS.
ROSES FOR TERRACE WALL {M. M, C.)— As you
desire Roses to fall over the top of the 10-foot wall, you
need varieties that have somewhat pliable growths. We
think the following dozen would meet yTiing, was awarded third prize for a rather poor series.
Only three entries for nine blooms of any Hose except
Tea or Noisette were forthcoming, a box of blooms of
Frau Karl Druschki of even form winning first prize for
Mr. J. Hart.. Second prize was awarded to Mr. K. de V.
Pryor for irregular blooms of Yvonne Vacherot ; and with
small blooms of Mildred Grant, Mr. Gulliver Speight was
placed third.
In an extra class for Divisions E and F, for six distmct
varieties, three blooms of each, there was only one exhibit.
This came from Mr. J. Hart, and was awarded first prize.
J. H. Welch, Florence Pemberton. Suzanne Marie Eodo-
canachi. Dr. O'Donel Browne, Frau Karl Druschki and
Hugh Dickson were the varieties shown.
Open to Groivers of Fewer than 1,000 Plants.
Six exhibits of twelve blooms, distinct, in the leading
class of this division made quite a good show. Premier
honours rested with Mr. Charles Lamplough, Kirkstall,
Alverstoke, who is always strong in this class. Superb
examples of cultural skill were shown, and their names
were Mrs. Foley Hobbs, Gloire de Chedane Guinoisseau,
Frau Karl Druschki, Mrs. Welch, Avoca. Mme. Jules
Gravereaux, J. B. Clark, Mildred Grant, William Shean,
Bessie Brown, Lyon and A. K. Williams. Second prize
was secured bv Mrs. Henry Balfour. Langley Lodge,
Headington, Oxford, with a very beautiful series. Florence
Pemberton, Her iMajesty. Charles Lefeb\Te and Khea Reid
being quite good. Third prize was won by Mr. Ernest G.
Mocatta, Woburn Place, Addlestone, with a bright and
attractive series of blooms of good form. Tliis was a
quite excellent stand.
Only one entry in Class 48 for nine blooms of any Rose
except Tea or Noisette was forthcoming. Frau Karl
Druschki, of medium size, winning first prize for Mr.
Charles Lamplough.
Open to Growers of Feiver than 750 Plants.
The leading class for twelve blooms, distinct varieties,
found no fewer than six competitors. Premier honours
rested with Mr. F. H. Cook, Birch, Colcliester, with
a grand lot of blooms, not so well staged as
usual. Notable examples were Mildred Grant, Frau
Karl Druschki, Gloire de Chedane Guinoisseau, Juliet,
Avoca, G. C. Waud, White Maman Cochet and Mrs. Coxhead.
A capital box of blooms secured second prize for Mi. E. B.
Lehmann, Ifield Lodge, Crawley, Sussex. Ulrich Brunner,
Earl of Warwick, Bessie Brown and a superb example
of Gloire de Chedane Guinoisseau were noteworthy.
A dozen very neat and even, though rather small, blooms
won third prize for Mr. Walter Stevens, Fair Oak. Radlett,
Herts. The first prize in this class takes the Ben Cant
Memorial Prize.
The seven entrants in the class for six blooms of any
Rose except Tea or Noisette made a welcome show.
First prize was awarded to fine examples of Dean Hole,
which were shown by the Rev. F. R. Burnside, Great Stam-
bridge Rectory, Essex. Large, clean, chaste blooms of
Frau Karl Druschki placed Mr. F. R. Biggleston, Jesmond,
Puckle Lane, Canterbxu-y, second ; and with Mildred Grant,
Mr. F. H. Cook was awarded third prize.
Extra Class for Divisions G and E.
The seven exhibits in this class made a very
excellent display. Mr. Charles Lamplough was again
to the fore, winning with good examples, the better blooms
being Gloire de Chedane Guinoisseau, Mme. Jules
Gravereaux and Mrs. Foley Hobbs, A good second was
found in Mr. F. H. Cook, who had Mildred Grant in grand
form. Third prize was secured by Mr. F. H. Fieldgate,
The Cottage, Shrub End Road, Colchester, Avoca in his
stand being very fine.
Open to Growers of Fewer thati 500 Plants.
Only three entries in Class 52. for twelve blooms, distinct,
were shown. Dr. W. P. Panckridge, Petersfleid. Hants,
being adjudged first with some really handsome blooms
of high quality, Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt (superb), Mrs.
Joseph Welch, Mrs. Stewart Clark, Mrs. A. E. Coxhead,
Bessie Brown and Florence Pemberton all being note-
worthy. Second prize was awarded to Mr. Stuart Hogg,
Leaside, Hertingfordbury, with small, neat blooms ;
and third prize went to the Rev. F. G. A. Phillips, Taplow
Rectory, Bucks, with a good series.
Class 53. for six blooms, distinct, was represented by
seven entries. A grand lot of blooms won first prize for
Mr. H. C. Baker, Bayfordbury. Hprt,ford. Maman Cochet,
White Maman Cochet, Dean Hole and G. C. Waud were
grand. Mr. J. Smart, Sherwood. Stevenage, was a capital
second, and the Rev. H. S. Arkwright, Breinton Vicarage,
Hereford, was a pleasing third.
The class for six blooim of one variety had only three
competitors. Dr. W. P. Panckridge was first with good
examples of Dean Hole , Mrs. C. Giddins, Windmore
Hall. South Mymms, Herts, was second with Mrs. Theodore
Roosevelt, and with Avoca the Rev. F. G. A. Phillips
was third.
Competition in the classes open to growers of fewer
than 350 and 200 plants respectively was very keen, and
the most praiseworthy interest was evinced in these
classes by a very large number of visitors to the show.
The flowers were good in most instances, reflecting great
credit on the growers. Those who have never won a
prize at an exhibition of the National Rose Society were
also provided with classes, and these, as usual, were of
considerable interest.
Metropolitan classes, too, for growers residing within
eight miles of Charing Cross, brought out some very interest-
ing competitions, showing how keen is the culture of Roses
within the range of London smoke.
In Class 73, for six blooms of Lyon Rose and six blooms
of Mme. Melauie Soupert, there was only one competitor,
who had blooms of a somewhat mixed character. Mr. W.
Boyes was awarded first prize, one good bloom of both
varieties calling for notice.
Class 74, for the Hammond Prize for six blooms, new
varieties, distinct, found five competitiors. First prize
was won by Mr. G. A. Hammond (the donor). Woodlands,
Burgess Hill, Sussex, who showed six beautifully even
examples of George Dickson, Mrs. Richard Draper, Mrs.
Charles Hunter, Coronation, Frances C. Seton and St.
Helena. JMrs. Bevil Fortescue was second, showing
Mrs. Joseph Welch and Elizabeth in superb fashion.
Third prize was awarded to Mr. H. L. Wettem, Waratah,
Sanderstead, Croydon, George Dickson being his best
bloom.
Exhibition Roses (Tea and Noisette).
For the Tea and Noisette Amateur Trophy, for eighteen
blooms, distinct varieties, there were five entries, first
prize being awarded to Mrs. Bevil Fortescue. The best
blooms were White Maman Cochet, Rlrs. Foley Hobbs,
Mme. Constant Soupert, Medea, airs. Myles Kennedy,
Maman Cochet, Nita Weldon, Molly Sharman Crawford,
W. R. Smith, Auguste Comte, La Boule d'Or, Mme.
Henri Berger, Mrs. Herbert Stevens, Comtesse de Nadaillac
and Miss Alice de Rothschild. A good second was found
in Mr. F. Slaughter, who had some noteworthy Roses in
his stand — Maman Cochet, White Maman Cochet, W. R.
Smith, Mar^chal Niel. The Bride and Mrs. Myles Kennedy,
air. C. C. Eversfield was placed third, and on his stand
there were a few blooms of exceptional merit.
There was but one stand of blooms for Mrs. Alfred
Tate's prize of a piece of plate, and this was somewhat
poor. First prize was awarded, nevertheless.
Only one competitor again was found in the class for
eight distinct varieties, three blooms of each. Mrs.
Bevil Fortescue was again to the fore, winning first prize
with a charming series. The better varieties were Maman
Cochet, Mrs. Foley Hobbs, White Maman Cochet, Mrs.
Hubert Taylor and Auguste Comte.
The two boxes of six blooms of one variety were very
beautiful, and the blooms of Wliite Maman Cochet which
secured first prize for Sir. T. E. Pallett were a very
beautiful lot indeed. They were even and of charming
form. Mr. C. C. Eversfield was second with the same
variety as the first prize winner, though less meritorious.
Open to Groivers of Fewer than 500 Plants.
The class for twelve blooms, distinct, is always very
interesting, the Rev. J. B. Shackle, Dropmore Vicarage,
Maidenhead, leading the four competitors with a lovely
series of blooms. The better varieties were Maman
Cochet, Mrs. E. Mawley, White Maman Cochet, Mme.
Jules Gravereaux and Mrs. Foley Hobbs. Mr. F. H.
Cook was awarded second prize with an even series, in
beautiful condition ; third, Mrs. Henry Balfour with
a pleasing exhibit.
Six exhibits in the class for six blooms of one variety
were charmingly displayed. Leading honours fell to
the Rev. F. R. Burnside with remarkably good blooms
of White Maman Cochet. Second went to the Rev.
J. B. Shackle for lovely blooms of Maman Cochet, and
the third prize was awarded to Mr. F. H. Cook for grand
examples of Auguste Comte.
Open to Growers of Fewer than 200 Plants.
The Prince Memorial Prize, for nine blooms, distinct
varieties, found only one competitor in air. H. L. Wettern,
who won the first prize with a beautiful series of well-
grown blooms. White Maman Cochet, airs, aiyles Kennedy,
airs. H. Taylor and airs. Foley Hobbs being noteworthy.
Class 83, for six blooms, distinct, was represented by
two entries only. Mr. R. de V. Pryor was awarded first
prize with a well-finished lot of blooms, Mrs. Foley Hobbs,
Mrs. Edward Mawley, Mme. Jules Gravereaux, Maman
Cochet and White RIaman Cochet being all that one
could desire. A good second was found in Rlr. Charles
Lamplough, airs. Foley Hobbs, airs, filyles Kennedy
and ftlme. Jules Gravereaux being his best blooms.
Class 84, for six blooms of one variety only, was repre-
sented by six exhibits, a grand set of blooms of RIrs,
Foley Hobbs gaining first prize for Mr. Charles Lamplough.
Second prize was won by Mr. H. L. Wettern with Mme.
Jules Gravereaux, and with six lovely White aiaman
Cochets Mr. H. C. Baker was placed third.
Open to Growers of Fewer than 100 Plants.
In Class 86, for six blooms in not fewer than four varieties,
there werp ten exhibitors. First prize was won by air.
C. A. L. Brown, Hatfield Peveril, Essex, with six really
capital blooms, air. J. Smart, jun., Shenvood, Stevenage,
was second, and third prize was awarded to Mr. Arthur
Merehouse, St George's Hill, Horley, Surrey,
The class for six blooms, distinct, found Mrs. Denman
Murray, Horsenden, Ryde, Isle of Wight, leading the
five competitors with quite good blooms. Mrs. F. Peters
Wood, Broom Lodge, Weybridge, was second, and the
Rev. F. G. A. Phillips was placed third.
Class 87, for four trebles, was an extra class for amateurs
in Divisions III., IV. and V. A capital lot of blooms won
first prize for Mr. F. H. Cook, who had Maman Ck>chet
and White aiaman Cochet in beautiful condition. The
Rev. F. R. Buraside was placed second, showing superb
blooms of the two varieties mentioned in the first prize
series. A beautif dl lot won third prize for air. F. Slaughter.
In Class 89, for a round basket of Tea or Noisette Roses,
the first prize exhibit was very beautiful, aiaman Cochet
was splendidly represented in the first prize exhibit of
air. F. H. Cook. A good second was seen in the blooms
from airs. E. M. Wightman, Bengeo, Herts, who showed
aiaman Cochet.
Perpetual -flowering Decorative Roses.
Class _90, for tliree baskets of cut Roses, three distinct
varieties, each variety in a separate basket, was repre-
sented by one exhibit only, airs. E. Wightman winning
first prize with a charming trio. Ethel, Daphne and
Mrs, W. Cutbush were the varieties shown.
There were five entries in the class for five stems each
of five varieties. A beautiful set won first prize for the
Rev. J. B. Shackle. Irish Elegance was well shown.
These varieties, we were sorry to see, were not named.
Second prize was won by air. J. Hart, who had Lady Ash-
tovm, PharisSer, airs. A. Tate, aime. L. Pain and
another. Third prize was seciu'ed by air. J. Walter
Smith, Sparrows Heme Hill, Bushey Heath, Herts, for
a really handsome series of blooms. Dorothy Page-
Roberts, Lady Ashtown and Mme. aielanie Soupert were
very fine.
Decorative Roses.
There were no competitors in the class for eighteen
distinct varieties, not fewer than three nor more than twelve
stems of each variety.
In the class for twelve bunches, however, the five
exhibits made a grand display, air. H. L. Wettern
well won the first prize with a grand lot of bunches, showing,
among others, American Pillar, Crimson Rambler, Dorothy
Perkins, Blush Rambler, Hiawatha, Da\vn, Ethel, Auguste
Comte. Mme. Abel Chatenay and General aiacarthur.
Second prize was won by Mr. Ernest G. aiocatta, who had
grand bunches 01 Orleans Rose, Crimson Rambler, Dorothy
Perkins, Blush Rambler and Irish Elegance. A charming
series won third prize for Viscountess Enfield, Dancers'
Hill. Bamet.
The eight entries in the class for six bunches, distinct,
made a most glorious piece of colour. The winning series
were those shown by the Rev. J. B. Shackle, and these,
again, were unnamed, which is a distinctly unfortunate
mistake Mr. J. Walter Smith was placed second with a
charming lot, Irish Glory being conspicuous. Lovely
bunches won third prize for &Ir. F. A. George, Red Hill,
Worcester, who had Grliss an Teplitz and Mme. Alfred
Carrifire in good form.
Seven entries in Class 97, for six vases of wichuraiana
Roses, were beautiful, air. H. L. Wettern again secured
leading honours with popular varieties, aiiss Beatrice
H. Langton, Raymead, Hendon, N.W., was second with
a freely flowered set, Francois Juranville being noteworthy.
Third prize was awarded to airs. E. Wightman, who had
Dorothy Perkins in beautiful form and colour.
Ladies' Artistic Classes.
For a basket of cut Roses, lightly arranged with any
Rose foliage, there were seven competitors, first prize
being awarded to airs. Colston Hales, Virginia Lodge.
Warminster, for a distinctly artistic creation. A pink
colour scheme won second prize for airs. A. E. Brown,
Brookes Lodge, Reigatc, and third prize went to airs. A. E.
Clarke, The Hurst, aiottingham. Kent, for American Pillar,
in glorious form and coloiur.
There were eight showing in the class for a vase of cut
Roses, lightly arranged with any Rose foliage. First
prize went deservedly to airs. Charles Willianaon, Wilstead,
Canterbury, for a wonderful vase of Gloire de Chedane
Guinoisseau, in the pink of condition. Second prize
was won by airs. J. Walter Smith with Irish Elegance,
in lovely form, and third prize went to a warm colour scheme
set up by Miss Jessie B. Langton, Raymead, Hendon,
N.W. Dorothy Page-Roberts and aiinnehaha were the
varieties used.
There were seven bowls of Roses in Class 104. Gustavo
Regis, as shown by aiiss Jessie B. Langton, and which won
first prize, was lovely. A rather formal creation,
using Irish Elegance and kindred coloured Hoses, won
second prize for airs. Colston Hales, and third prize was
secured by airs. J, Walter Smith for a lovely bowl of Irish
Elegance.
In other decorative classes for bowls, vases, baskets,
button-holes, &c.,the competition was very good, and some
beautiful artistic creations were oxliibited. The com-
petition was very keen, and proves most conclusively
how great a hold this aspect of the society's work has
upon the ladies. Table decorations were numerous and
very daintily arranged.
Class 101. fora table decoration of single Rosas, was very
popular, and found numerous entrant-s. Premier honours
rested with airs. J. Walter Smith for a beautiful table of
Rose Irish Elegance, in which lovely sprays of highly
coloured blossoms were finely represented. Second jirize
was won by airs. Walter aiorrlson, who also used Irish
Elegance, displayed in silver vases. In the third prize,
won by Countess Olga Pontiatinc, Glebovo, Egerton Road,
Weybridge. Irish Elegance was again supreme, being
lightly and deftly diBpo3ec|.
GARDEN.
;^^sm=^
No. 2227.— Vol. LXXVIII.
July 25, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
An Easily Grown Water Lily.— One of the
most beautiful and, incidentally, one of the most
easily grown of all Water Lilies is Nymph;Ea
Marliacea albida. It will make luxuriant leaves
and produce a succession of blooms if given about
three feet of water. It is one of the freest to
bloom, and may be safely recommended for
the small garden if given all the sun possible
and a pool of still water. It is well known that
all Water Lilies prefer still water to a running
stream. The flowers are very large,
pure white, with light yellow stamens,
and are fragrant.
Summer Treatment of Violets. —
Plants which are intended to produce
flowers throughout the winter should
receive special attention for the re-
mainder of the summer. Stop side
shoots as they appear, in order to
direct the energies of the plants to
the formation of strong crowns, with-
out which the results will not be
satisfactory. Red spider, which is the
most troublesome enemy to contend
with, may be kept in check by frequent
syringing and light dustings of soot ;
but no great quantity of soot should
be applied at one time, or the tender
foliage may suffer in consequence.
Keep the soil stirred with a Dutch
hoe, and if dry weather sets in, a good
watering of clear soft water should be
given.
The Nankeen Lily. — This beautiful
Lily, L. testaceum, is totally distinct
in colour, as the clear nankeen tint is
not seen in any other. It is said to be
of hybrid origin, and certainly in many
points it resembles the supposed parents,
the scarlet Turk's-cap Lily, Lilium
chalcedonicum, and the Madonna Lily,
L. candidum. In growth and size of
flower it resembles the latter, while
the flowers are prettily reflexed as
in the former. Established plants imder
favourable conditions grow from 6 feet
to 7 feet high, with horizontally poised heads
of drooping flowers, which have bright red
anthers. It is a plant that will grow in light,
sandy loam better than many other Lilies, and,
like the Madonna Lily, it should only be disturbed
when absolutely necessary.
Interesting British Plants. — Among the more
interesting British plants that have been sent
to the Cambridge Botanic Garden in the past
year ate : Gladiolus illyricus, found in the New
Forest and the Isle of Wight ; Lathyrus maritimus,
the Sea Pea, a local species growing on pebbly
seashores ; Erica Mackaii, found in Galway and
in Spain ; Nepeta Glechoma f. hirsuta, a pallid
micranthous form, found on the downs above
Merrow in Surrey ; Viola riviniana f . luxurians,
Mr. Bickham's White Violet ; SaUx Grahamii,
supposed to have been brought from Frouvyn
in Sutherland by Professor Graham ; Saxifraga
umbrosa, from South Kerry ; a Wallflower from
Colchester and Guildford Castles (from these
A BEAUTIFUL WHITE WATER LILY :
ALBIDA.
nympHjEa marliacea
and other castles always apparently the same
form) ; Verbascum species, a critical form found
in the grounds of Emmanuel College ; and Ulmus
minor (MiUer), an interesting Elm recently found
wild near Chatteris.
A Beautiful Strain of Hybrid Calceolarias.—
One of the principal features in the conservatory
at the Cambridge Botanic Garden is a display
of hybrid Calceolarias, the result of crossing
C. The Bronze Age with C. Clibranii. The
plants are of a graceful branching habit, from
1 8 inches to 2 feet high. The flowers vary from
deep rich brown to bright yellow, many being
beautifully spotted, and are borne in great profusion.
Rose Lady Alice Stanley. — ^This splendid Rose
has done wonderfully well with us again this year,
and we regard it as one of the best rose pink
varieties for garden decoration. The blooms are
fragrant, large, and held erect on stout stems, and
the large, leathery leaves are seldom affected \vith
mildew. This Rose ought to be in every garden.
The Mount Etna Broom (Genista
aetnensis). — This is a most effective
Broom" during July and August, a
season when flowering shrubs are not
plentiful. Its graceful cord-
like, arching, pendulous branches are
almost hidden by the myriads of
golden flowers. In common with the
majority of the family, this Broom is
happy upon rough, dry banks or in warm,
light soils, which satisfy few things.
As its name indicates, it comes from
Moimt Etna in Sicily, and appears to
be perfectly hardy. It is readily raised
from seeds, which are freely produced.
This is the best means of increasing it,
and as it is a fast grower, a good plant is
soon obtained. It usually grows
about ten feet high, but a fine speci-
men we saw the other day was almost
twice that height and equally as far
through, making a conspicuous feature
against a background of large conifers.
Sweet Pea Week in London. —
Sweet Pea enthusiasts had quite a
busy time in London last week. The
National Sweet Pea Society held its
fourteenth annual show on Thursday,
and followed it by a reception and
dinner at the Hotel Windsor in the
evening, when the innovation of a
musical programme, generously pro-
vided by Messrs. James Carter and
Co., was thoroughly enjoyed by a large
gathering of members and friends. On
Friday a number of members visited
the society's trials at the Burbage Experimental
Station, Burbage, Leicestershire, where Major
Hurst very kindly met the visitors and later in
the day explained some of the very interesting
experiments that he is conducting on MendeUan
lines with animals and plants. It is satisfactory
to note that no fewer than t45 new members
have joined the National Sweet Pea Society
this year, and that twenty-two additional societies
have become af&liated. A report of the London
show will be found on another page.
374
THE GARDEN.
[July 25, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
(The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
Ostrowskia magniflca in Berkshire. — I enclose
a photograph of a plant of Ostrowskia magnifica
growing in the gardens here. As will be seen,
the plant is growing at the foot of a wall which faces
east, and the position appears to suit it well,
the growth this year having reached the' height
of 6 feet. Last week, when at its best, it had
fifteen fully expanded flowers open at one time,
the largest being nearly eight inches in diameter. —
E. W. Die, The Gardens, Bowden Green, Pang-
bnurne, Berks.
Cyclamen neapolitanum and its Seeds. —
Surely there are few plants so tardy in maturing
and ripening their seeds as is the above. Flowering
as it does in August and September, it is usuaUv
the following June before we gather ripe pods from
it, and there are many now (July 13) which have
still to be gathered. When ripe, the seeds are
at once sown in shallow boxes in a compost con-
sisting largely of decayed leaf-mould and Cocoanut
fibre, mth an admixture and surfacing of fine loam.
It is usually three years before the seedlings com-
mence to flower. — F. Herbert Chapman.
Lilium giganteum in Scotland. — When visiting
the gardens of Mr. T. Bennet Clark at Newmills,
Balemo, Midlothian, oiv July ro, I noted, among
a host of good things, two fine specimens of the
above Lily in fuU flower. Both had flower-
stems about six and a-half feet high ; one bore
eight flowers and the other eleven. Mr. Bennet
Clark tells me that he frequently has this Lilium
in flower. He raises his own stock from offsets, this
being a saving of time as compared with seedlings
(which some prefer), as they take about ten years
to flower from the date of sowing. — Charles
Comfort.
New Rambling Roses. — In reply to'your corre-
spondent " E. M." on page 350, issue July 11,
I must say I have not grown Neige d'Avril, but
Fraulein O. Hesse I have had for some time, an
consider it a lovely Rose, but not white. I do not
call Kaiserin Augusta Victoria white. Since
penning my first notes I have flowered Sanders'
White, Snowdrift and Mrs. M. H. Walsh, all really
grand whites. The first named is the snowiest
white ; but Snowdrift appeals to me more for its
effectiveness. Pemberton's White Rambler will
be valuable among the multiflora section, and a
splendid companion to the old Crimson Rambler.
Danecroft.
The Naming of Plants. — I undertook recently
to name the flowers in a large garden in the North,
but found that there were over twenty perennials
I could not identify. Naturally, I hied to the
nearest authorities, and, in order to ensure correct-
ness, sent away duplicate sets of plants, one to
the Botanic Gardens in the city close to us, and
one to a large seed firm who had men specially
" well up " in herbaceous plants. Now the results
were astounding ; in some five cases the actual
genera were not the same, while over fifty per cent,
of the others varied in the species. Without
disparaging the excellent assistance given me in
both cases, let me ask who is the authority ? The
garden in question is a very old one. On consulting
my " Nicholson " I find room for doubt in the case of
some names given, and even in that large work only
a small number of species are noted. Again,
suppose I have an unknown flower, how can I
get it identified ? Does the science of classification
remain in the hands of a few experts at Kew,
and what authority is their knowledge based on ?
(The " Kew Index " probably, but how few libraries
have it.) Wanting to get at the root of the matter,
I have already made those enquiries, and have been
answered ; the gist of the answer being that I
ought to study the " Floras" of various countries
if I want to identify flowers myself !l|Here, again,
are difficulties ; must I keep aU the " Floras " (our
largest library in Scotland does not have them),
and must I hunt through them all till I get my
flower identified ? Take the case of an ordinary gar-
dener with an " unkno\vn " ; he has " Nicholson,"
which is worse than useless in this case ; he studies
catalogues of flowers and looks at pictures — also
A WELL-GROWN PLANT OF OSTROWSKIA
MAGNIFICA.
bad ; he has not a classification table extensive
enough to include all genera, even if he could
work it ; finally, he goes to " someone else " who
Icnows better. Then we arrive at the original
question — who is the authority, and does a full
loiowledge of classification rest in the hands
of a chosen few ? The question is opportune
and interesting ; but if the answer is as I
suspect, surely we have need for some remedy ! —
H. H. A.
Bishop's Weed, Cow Parsley and the Roman
Nettle. — Mr. Brotherston's humour seems to be of
a very virulent kind. It is pleasing to know that
the poor, neglected, ill-treated Bishop's Weed
has at'least one champion, and one who knows its
virtues, though only supposed. But why resurrect
King James ? Certainly it is difficult to see the
point concerning Cow Parsley and its need for
cultivation, unless it be to make botanising easier,
though really much less interesting. One plant
more should interest Mr. Brotherston ; it is the Giant
Roman Nettle (Urtica piluUfera). The writer
remembers a fine patch of this plant growing in a
garden in Kent. Every plant grew about six feet
high, stout and strong in proportion, and truly a
fitting monument to the ancient warriors who
spread themselves over that fair county hundreds
of years ago. — H. R., Holland.
Notes on Last Week's " Correspondence "
Columns. — In your " Correspondence " columns
last week I noted several most interesting topics
on which I should like to comment, if you will
allow me. The first concerned " The Most
Fragrant Rose " (with a %vitty allusion to the
Apostle and Prophet). I rejoice greatly to
see the question of fragrance to the fore. It has
been too long neglected. The next paragraph
dealt with the appropriate naming of new plants,
from " A. E. G.," a New Zealand writer, with
whose opinions on the subject I strongly agree.
I think especially the selection of personal names
is objectionable, and ofttimes absurd. A friend
recently desired to name a new Dahlia after me,
an honour I hastened to decline ; for, being no
longer young or slim, I thought how terrible it
would be to read remarks like the following in
The Garden : " Anne Amateur is of an old-
fashioned type, now rarely seen, and, though of a
fresh rosy tint, successfully enduring exposure to
the strongest sunshine, and hardily resisting both
^torm and frost, is lacking in lightness and grace,
and utterly superseded by more modem and
attractive specimens." Then followed a most
interesting note on " Lightness In Table Decora-
tions," from H. A. Elliott. On this I venture
these observations. To me Sweet Peas and
Gypsophila long ago became wearisome. Though
a good combination, it was a case of toujours per-
drix, and made me feel like the London apprentices
who in bygone days stipulated that they should
not have salmon for dinner too often ! For my
part I think table decoration should vary in
accord with the style of the dinner. With roast
beef and plum pudding as principal items, bowls
of Roses would go very well ; while the flowers for
a meal consisting chiefly of what our forefathers
termed " kick-shaws " should be dainty in tint
and light and airy in arrangement. I sometimes de-
vise schemes for, and send flowers from my country
garden to, a friend who (luckless woman !) has to
give dinners in London in the season. One which
met with great approval, on a broiling June even-
ing, was as follows : In a large cut-glass centre
bowl floated a few Water-Lily-like, small white
single Pseonies, on leaves of the Winter Coltsfoot
(Tussilago fragrans), real Water Lilies and leaves
being then unobtainable. Some Limnanthes
Douglasi counterfeited Water Crow's-foot. Round
this little cool-looking LUy pond rose, in slender
clear cut-glass vases, yellow Spanish Iris, with
old-fashioned striped green and white Ribbon
Grass and some wild Grasses. These stood on snaall
glass plateaux placed on moss green plush. The
guests voted the whole a great success. In con-
clusion, at the end of the " Correspondence "
columns I came with surprise on my own name and
an allusion to my village friend's recipe for White
Rose ointment, with a request for a picture of the
old ointment pipkin, which I will endeavour to
send shortly. (Photographers are rather rare in
the remote regions where I write.) — Anne
Amateur.
July 25, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
375
Rose Mme. Edouard Herriot. — I wonder
how many amateurs have grown this Rose since
it was sold by the nurserymen last autumn.
No wonder such a great deal was written about it
in the papers after it had received the Gold Cup. I
have had four or five blooms off my plant. They
are indeed a wonderful colour, and quite unique
for a Rose. I can best describe the tints by
likening them to that of the Sweet Peas Helen
Lewis and Sterling Stent, which have been out
at the same time as the Rose, and, putting them
side by side, they have absolutely agreed with
the Rose in colour. This is undoubtedly a great
acquisition in the Rose world, and if lovers of
Roses have not been fortunate enough to secure
a plant this summer, they should lose no oppor-
tunity of securing one next November. • I am so
delighted with mine that I cannot help singing
its praises for the benefit of others. — Honor T.
Pitts, The Rectory, Loughborough.
Rose American Pillar. — I can fully corroborate
the remarks of your correspondent " H. G. B."
on page 350, issue July 11, as to the merits
of this beautiful climbing Rose. Like him, I
purchased a plant from Messrs. Cannell and Sons
when it was first introduced a few years ago,
and since then it has been greatly admired by all.
My only surprise is that even now so few are
conscious of its merits. My own opinion is that
in a few years' time, when more generally known,
it will take premier position among rambling
Roses. Many may be interested to know that it
does equally well from cuttings planted in Septem-
ber in the open ground. In spite of the great
merits of Blush Rambler and Dorothy Perkins,
to my mind American Pillar surpasses them all.
Good plants can be purchased at very moderate
prices now, so there is no excuse for not possessing
this charming Rose. While on the topic of Roses,
I should be glad for information respecting another
favourite of mine, Zephyrine Drouhin. — W. B. C,
Maidstone. [Our correspondent does not indicate
what sort of information he desires about Rose
Zephyrine Drouhin. It is a great favourite with
us on account of its wonderful fragrance, dainty
carmine pink colour, and freedom of flowering.
It is a Hybrid Bourbon, and does best grown as
a large bush or pillar. Its stems are thomless. —
Ed.]
The Most Fragrant Rose.— It is to be hoped
the judges for the Clay Challenge Cup wiU keep
in mind beauty of form as well as fragrance when
making their awards in the future. There was
much diversity of opinion expressed at the Holland
House Show regarding the decision of the judges,
and many thought Mrs. George Norwood should
have received the award. This Rose has a most
perfect form and charming colour, and for fragrance
is quite equal to the Rose that received the award,
which from the illustration you gave on page 352
has no beauty of form to recommend it. The
National Rose Society have very wisely recognised
fragrance in their new rules for judging Roses
for their gold medal, and no doubt raisers will
give this matter due consideration ; but I feel
sure I shall have the majority of Rose-lovers
vrith me when I claim for form that recognition
it undoubtedly deserves. I was glad to find
that the most beautifully formed novelty exhibited
at the recent " National " Rose Show, namely,
Mrs. Bertram Walker, possessed a delicious
fragrance, and the judges were unanimous in
awarding it a gold medal. I may say I do not
like the term " scent " as applied to Roses and
other flowers. The Crown Imperial has a spept
most obnoxious to one's sense of smell, and Mr.
Sawer in his excellent work, " Rhodologia," speaks
of Rosa platyacantha, R. Capucine and R. beggeri-
ana even developing an odour of bugs and coriander.
He also asserts that cut Roses placed in a vase
diffuse their fragrance more powerfully than
when growing on the plant, so that, even for this,
should not the award be withheld until the varieties
are compared growing upon the plants ? —
l^ANECROFT.
The Horseshoe Fern. — I have seen the note by
Mr. L. Stowe on this subject in the issue of April 11,
and was surprised at his claim that the Fern is very
rare and only known to grow in the vicinity of Mount
Egmont. I quote from " Ferns of New Zealand,"
by H. C. Field, C.E., Member of the New Zealand
Institute : " Marattia fraxinea. Para, Para Reka,
or Para Tawhiti of the Maoris. Horseshoe Fern
of the Europeans. This Fern is found in Guinea,
Angola, Zambesi-land, Mascaren Islands, Natal,
Cape Colony, the Neilgherries, Ceylon, Philip-
pines, Malacca, Polynesia, Queensland, and
Norfolk Island, besides New Zealand. It was
formerly plentiful in the North Is'and (N.Z.),
where its tuberous roots formed an important
article of food, and caused the Maoris to assert
they had a Potato before Cook visited the
Colony. The wild pigs, however, have nearly
exterminated it, so that it is only now found in a
few localities, extending from the North Cape to a
little south of Mount Egmont." Mr. Field also
states it is the only plant of the genus Marattia
in New Zealand, that it is only found in very wet,
almost boggy, ground, and is easily cultivated
in rich soil, kept well saturated with water, that
cattle and horses both eat greedily of the fronds,
which are said to grow as much as 14 feet high.
I have specimens about five feet high which came
from Waiuku, Buckland and Paparimu, bush
districts all within forty-five miles of Auckland.
I am told they are fairly plentiful on the Coro-
mande! peninsula ; and the district of Kaipara
takes its name (Kai = food, and para = the edible
Fern) from the prevalence of this plant in old
times. A few years back I visited a fine group
of Horseshoe Ferns (known here also as the King
Fern) at Buckland, thirty-three miles south of
Auckland, where the owner had reserved a clump
of bush and fenced it to protect the Ferns from
pigs and cattle, and I then saw specimens with
fronds I could walk under. However, as Mr.
Field says, they are fast disappearing wherever
pigs and cattle range the bush, and it is only a
matter of time when they will be very difficult to
find growing in a state of Nature in New Zealand.
— A. E. Grindrod, Woodside Road, Auckland,
New Zealand.
THE SUMMER TREATMENT
OF LAWNS.
FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
July 28. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting
and National Gladiolus Society's Combined Show
at Vincent Square, Westminster.
July 29. — Flower Shows at Bishop's Stortford
and Castleton.
July 30. — Midland Carnation Show at Edgbaston
Botanic Gardens (two days). Royal Lancashire
Agricultural Show at Liverpool (four days).
Killamey Summer Show.
August I. — Societe Franpiise de Horticulture
de Londres Meeting. Dumbarton Sweet Pea
Show.
August 3. — Flower Show at Carshalton.
August 4. — Flower Show at Abbey Park,
Leicester (two days). Scottish Horticultural
Association's Meeting.
I HAVE read with great interest your editorial
note on mowing lawns without a grass-
box, page 349, issue July 11. You
draw attention to the great benefit derived
by the lawn from the cut grass being left
to decay, but you state as a drawback
that the clippings would interfere with play if
the lawn were used for tennis or croquet. It
may therefore interest my fellow-readers of The
Garden if I describe a device by which it is possible
to leave the clippings even on a putting green.
While staying at North Berwick last month I
walked over the links early one morning before
breakfast. The men were working on the greens,
and were carrying out an operation which from a
distance greatly puzzled me. I walked up to them
and found that they were sweeping the greens with
long Bamboo poles. It appeared that the mowing
had just been completed, and that the sweeping
had the effect not only of spreading the clippings,
but of rubbing them in and causing them to
disappear. The Bamboos were about fifteen feet
long. The butt was thick enough to be stiff for
nearly eight feet, and this enabled the " waggly "
end to be kept low and flat. Sweeping was done
from side to side, and caused no fatigue. Playing
over the greens later in the day, no one would
have known but what every stray blade of grass
had been studiously removed. The greens were
as true as billiard tables.
If this is possible on a putting green, on which
one plays with a light and easily deflected ball,
no difficulty ought to occur in the case of games
such as tennis, croquet or bowls. Moreover,
the greater length to which grass is allowed to
grow on tennis and croquet " greens " would
make it all the easier to " rub in " the clippings.
The whole secret lies in frequent mowing, so that
the clippings are never long. Grass sufficient
to form a crop of hay could obviously not be
disposed of. But then mowing without a grass-
box is so very much less laborious that frequent
momng may result in a saving of time and effort.
If you can spare the space, I should like to have
an opportunity of stating my firm conviction
that to leave on cut grass is the best of all possible
means of manuring a lawn. All of us who are
interested in farming know that land under grass
slowly accumulates fertility. But if the land
is heavily cropped, as happens to a lawn which is
regularly mown with a grass-box from March to
October, the exhausting process is more rapid
than the accumulation of fertility. The finer
grasses starve to death, and there remain only
weeds, which can find a living practically anywhere.
If, however, the grass is left on, nothing is taken
out of the land, and it becomes richer and richer
every year. This slow process of enrichment
produces a totally different effect from the sudden
application of powerful manure. I have applied
the latter myself to lawns, and 1 have also watched
the results in the gardens of friends. In every
case the result has been eventual ruin. The
explanation seems to be tliis : In a starved lawn
the only vigorous subjects of the grass tribe are
coarse things, such as the Poas and Yorkshire
Fog. These alone are in sufficient health to
benefit from stimulating food. (Do we not know
Miss JekyU's saying that to give manure to a sickly
plant is like feeding a delicate child on beef steak
and brandy ?) Landowner.
3-76
THE GARDEN.
[July 25, 1914.
THE MORE DIFFICULT
DIANTHUSES.
{Conliniicd from page 366.}
A LTHOUGH a number of people have
/% no difficulty with some of the Dian-
/ % thuses now mentioned, many cultiva-
A~"^% tors find - them more troublesome
' ^ than the others, and I have, therefore,
thought it desirable to write of thetn
separately. They will generally thrive in a
moraine, and can also be successfully treated
m well-drained parts of the rock garden if surfaced
cause. D, callizonus is exquisite with its 2-inch
or 3-inch stems bearing large flowers of brilliant
pink, charmingly zoned and spotted at the base
with a deeper hue. The bluish foliage sets off
the beauty of the blooms. A few young plants,
raised from cuttings or division, should always
be kept. A cool, stony, peaty soil should be tried.
It is a lime-hater. May and June.
D. Freynii. — There is a good deal of confusion
existing respecting D. Freynii, D. Lereschii and
D. microlepis. D. Freynii, however, is a most
exc[uisite little plant, forming tufts of small green
leaves rising but little above the soil. Above
these are borne tinv flowers of rose or rose purple
D. neglectus. — 1 may be called in question
for including this among the more difficult subjects.
The true form has grassy leaves and, on short
stems not more than 4 inches or 6 inches high,
lovely flowers of bright carmine with the backs
of a kind of nankeen colour. It is said to be
unsuitable for the moraine, but this is not the case
ever5'where. I have grown it well on a flat part
of the rockerj-, surfaced with fine gravel and grit,
in peaty soil, and treated to good soakings of
water in the summer months. Cuttings for the
best forms, and seeds. May and June.
D. nitidUS. — A dainty little plant, apparently
a miniature form of D. alpinus, and calling for
the same treatment. It therefore requires no
further mention.
D. sylvestris. — Reputedly difficult, this Pink
IS not really so, but it may die off suddenly
without any apparent reason. Belying its name
of sylvestris, it is a lover of dry, open, stony
places, and should be grown in the moraine or
in dry soil with plenty of grit and surfaced with
gravel or chips. It has small grassy leaves and
red flowers on stems 9 inches high. May to July.
Dumfries. S. Arnott.
THE FUTURE OF THE
ANTIRRHINUM.
DIANTHUS CALLIZONUS, A BEAUTIFUL DWARF PINK FOR THE ROCK GARDEN.
with an inch or 2 inches of large grit or small
gravel or chips.
DianthUS alpinus. — This lovely species is quite
easy with many growers, but others, through some
obscure cause, find it difficult to cultivate.. It
has a preference for partial shade when on the
rockery, but does not appear to be so particular
on the moraine, in which it apparently delights.
D. alpinus has large flowers of rose or pink,
charmingly spotted with deeper colour at the
base, and raised on stems 3 inches or 4 inches in
length. The white variety, though pretty, is
iLOt so charming as the type. Under the name
of superbus there is a large bright variety offered,
as well as some so-called hybrids, which do not
appear to be any improvement upon the lovely
D. alpinus. It is easily raised from seeds or
increased by division. May to July.
D. cal-alpinus. — Those who despair of cul-
tivating D. callizonus may well attempt the ex-
quisite D. cal-alpinus, the offspring of the marriage
of D. callizonus and D. alpinus. It is a handsome
plant with good rose flowers, effectively zoned
with crimson. It does well on a sunny rockery
or the moraine. It is raised from cuttings, and
flowers in May and June.
D. callizonus. — Mr. Irving and the staff of
Kew are to be envied the success with which
they cultivate this lovely Dianthus there. It
has a baffling habit of dying off without apparent
on short stems, the whole completing a picture
which appeals to the alpinist. I have found that
this will thrive on a level spot on the rockery
if mulched with grit or fine gravel, and in a well-
drained place, but watered during dry weather
in late spring and summer. The moraine is the
ideal place for it. It does not object to lime,
but has no preference for it. June to August.
D. Lereschii should have rose flowers, those of
D. microlepis being white with lilac spots at the
base.
D. glacialis. — The despair of many, the Glacier
Pink is yet one of the flowers which are so exquisite
that it well repays almost any amount of care.
It is not, however, so very difficult in the ordinary
sense of the term, except that it may die off even
after we have indulged it by giving the prescribed
treatment which has proved the best. This is
a cool place, well drained but not too dry, but
in a peaty soil, or one composed of loam, leaf-
mould and sand with some grit in it. No lime
should be given. It also requires plenty of water
while growing. It has narrow leaves in tufts,
and handsome pink flowers, rather smaller than
those of D. alpinus. It is. in fact, not so desirable
as the Alpine Pink. D. gelidus is generally
considered a form of the Glacier Pink. It is
smaller, and has pink flowers spotted with white
at the throat. The sarne treatment suits it.
April and May,
TH.\T the Antirrhinum is rapidly rising
in popularity is now so apparent
that it is unnecessary to labour the
point ; but one may feel sure of one's
ground in asserting that very soon
it will be the leading favourite with
those wlio want a subject for either small beds
or broad masses where a prolonged displav of
bright colours is desired.
Nurserymen and seedsmen have awakened to
the possibilities of Antirrhinums, and a good many
firms are devoting considerable attention to
building up strains and sets of really good varie-
ties. Before long, doubtless, growers will set
themselves to the task of bringing out the best
that is in the Antirrhinum by growing on single
stems, pinching out all lateral growths — [We hope
not. — Ed.] — and by systematic feeding.
It is well that some thought shall at this stage
be given to the future of the plant, for while it
is in every way desirable that the work of selection
and improvement shall be diligently pursued,
it is devoutly to be hoped that no craving for
sensationalism shall take hold of admirers of
Antirrhinums, which would sooner or later prove
baneful rather than beneficial. First, there is
the possibiUty of the introduction of a host of
named varieties. It seems to me it will be posi-
tively dangerous to the well-being of the Antir-
rhinum to tolerate the thrusting upon the market
of a great many varieties under meaningless and
useless names, simply because they are slightly
different in colour from others. Antirrhinimis
may, of course, be propagated from cuttings
with the greatest of ease ; but if, in order to meet
a sliort-lived demand for a novelty, resort is had
to rapid multiplication by propagating under
glass, it will not be long before the sturdy vigour
and immunity from pests and diseases is destroyed.
Let good strains suffice, and let us adhere as
closely as possible to the rational method of
raising from seed.
It may be all very well to grow a small number
of plants on the single stem principle, to disbud,
JiULY ^5, I9I4.]
THE GARDEN.
377
and to feed judiciously in order to produce a
iEew extra good spikes of flower ; but do not
lett'iis fancy become a mania. Do not start an
Antirrhinum society and offer challenge cups
f^r spikes valued by the yard ; but let the natural
and beautiful bush-like habit, the free and con-
tinuous blooming propensities, and the sturdy
constitution of the plant be jealously guarded
and carefully preserved, and we shall be long
able to enjoy one 'of. the most serviceable and
beautiful of plants, which, while worthy of gracing
the most favoured of gardens, is accommodating
enough to adorn the humblest and most unpre-
tentious garden of the handicapped suburban
^mateur. Heather Bell,
DISEASES OF
TOMATO.
TH E
^HE Tomato is a plant which has become
popular only within the last few years,
yet in a short space of time it has
piroved ihbst" susceptible' to attaclis
of various fungi which are of the
greatest virulence and
spread with astounding rapidity
Even more curious still, and unfor-
tunate, too, is the fact that no cure,
no reliable cure, can be found for
any of them, and the only course
open to the gardener is to ensure
freedom for his plants by first-class
culture coupled with extreme care
at all times. Fresh turfy loam, or
sterilised composts where extensive
supplies of new material are not
available, is the first great desidera-
tum. Since the seeds carry spores of
the diseases, clean seed or sterilised
seed is almost essential, and when
the plants are in active growth,
health, vigour and sturdiness must
be secured at all costs. A close,
stagnant atmosphere in the green-
house is most inimical to the health
of the plants, and good feeding, but
not " high " nitrogenous feeding, will
be found to bring success. At the
end of the summer, when the weather
may chance to be close and " muggy,"
iveep a little heat in the pipes to
assist the air currents, to maintain
a clear, buoyant atmosphere, and to
banish that dank, stuffy, moist air
that is the very harbinger of disease.
Black Spot. — This fungus (Macro-
sporium Solani) also attacks the
Potato and causes the foliage of those
plants to curl. In the Tomato the
fruit is most commonly attacked,
but a careful examination of the
plants will probably show black or
brown blotches on the stems and leaves. The
disease generally begins as a pitted black spot
near the eye or top of the fruit, and it spreads
in rings, which are covered with a black velvet
skin. Infection can only take place through a
wound of the fruit ; hence overfeeding leads
to prevalence of the disease, since it induces
cracks in the ripening Tomatoes. Avoid applying
liquid fertilisers made from fresh manure, pull
off fruits which show the fungus, and use them
as soon as possible. Keep the place well aired
and fairly dry. Moist, stagnant atmosphere
causes the spores to spread.
Black Stripe. — ^This is another very common
disease difficult to get rid of once it finds a place
inside the greenhouse. It appears at the lower
parts of the plant first, but soon spreads upwards,
first along the stem and then over the leaves.
Do not scrape off the black streaks, for by this
you are merely sowing the spores. Plants,
especially when sprayed with fungicide, frequently
recover, but never do well. The best plan is
to dispose of any infested plant, to spray surround-
ing specimens with fungicide, and to dress the
soil round about with quicklime.
Leaf Rust. — This disease is not so common
as either of the above. It is characterised by
yellow or light brown patches spreading over the
leaves, which are really colonies of a fungus
known as Cladosporium ^ fulvum. This rust is
fostered by bad ventilation and too much foliage
on the plants. Defoliate a little more freely to
allow free play of air among the plants, be sure to
burn badly infested leaves, and, if the rust is
again noticed, use a fungicide.
Sleepy Disease. — This disease — and a destruc-
tive and quick-acting one it is — makes its presence
soil should be dressed witli quicklime and sterilised
in the winter, or new compost replaced.
Bacteriosis. — This disease is held to be caused
by a bacterium called P>acillus solanacearum,
which also attacks the Potato. Tomato plants
attacked by it begin to droop and die at the top.
The disease gradually works its way down the
plant, the leaves curl up and become marked
with yellow spots. The fruits are attacked
eventually, and soon the whole plant is useless.
Burn all attacked plants, for there is no cure.
The germs may be carried by insects from one
plant to another, so use the liver of sulphur solution
mentioned below immediately the presence of
the bacillus is suspected. Bordeaux mixture,
with half an ounce to an ounce of copper sulphate
per gallon, is a good fungicide ; but almost equally
efficacious is liver of sulphur solution containing
an ounce of that chemical and four ounces
of soft soap in every two gallo-is. The Board of
Agriculture recommends the admixture of an
ounce of Paris Green with every ten gallons of
Bordeaux mixture used in the case of bacteriosis.
A perusal of these brief notes shows the wisdom
of careful work on scientific lines. Prevention
must ever be the fetish of the Tomato-grower,
DIANTHUS NEGLECTUS, A SPECIES WITH LARGE BRIGHT CARMINE FLOWERS.
known by a sudden drooping of the foliage from,
no apparent cause, followed rapidly by the death
of the plant. The stems near the soU appear
covered with a dense white mould, turning brown
in time. If the skin is removed from the stem,
it is found to be black or brown underneath,
and a section of the stem shows the internal
tissues to be in a very unhealthy state. All
suspected plants should be isolated immediately,
and burned if it turns out to be a case of sleepy
disease. There is absolutely no cure, but the
for oiily in that way can he ever hope to secure the
acme of success. H. H. A.
AQUILEGIA STUARTII.
Of the many beautiful garden subjects which
the Aquilegia family provides, few can compare
in grace of form and delicacy of colouring with
Stuart's Columbine. This dainty plant is said
to be a hybrid between A. glandulosa and A.
Witmannii. and was raised by Dr. Stuart. The
378
THE GARDEN.
[July 25, 1914.
flowers have sepals of a clear fuU blue, while the
petals forming the cup-like coroUa are cream.
The foliage is neat and dwarf, slender stalks
holding aloft the delicately poised flowers, which
are of very considerable size. This Aquilegia
is said to come true from seed, but as I have not
raised this form I cannot speak from experience.
From the results I have had in raising other
species of Columbine, however, I should consider
this a remarkable feature in a family so prone to
hybridise. My experience ivith the lovely A. alpina
is that, if fortunate, one in a hundred seedlings
may be something like the plant. The strongest
plants usually follow sowing in situ and thinning
out to prevent overcrowding, while a cool, deep,
well-drained, gritty compost appears to be rehshed.
Other particularly attractive Columbines for
some cool ledge in the rock garden are A. cserulea,
J lovely blue, long-spurred species from the Rockies ;
A. canadensis, scarlet and gold, and its nana
form ; A. chrysantha, which sometimes attains
a height of 3 feet 6 inches and is of a soft yellow
and pink tone ; and A. pyrenaica, a dainty
Columbine resembling A. alpina, though paler
in colour and rather dwarfer. The accompanying
illustration indicates how attractive an irregular
group of A. Stuartii may be when introduced
in the neighbourhood of dwarf shrubs on some
stony ledge in the alpine garden. R. A. Malbv.
AyUlLEGIA STUARTII, A BEAUTIFUL HYBRID COLUMBINE WITH BLUE AND CREAM
COLOURED FLOWERS.
earlier-flowering relatives, unsuitable for the some evergreen leaves. A native of the Southern
SUMMER-FLOWERING
MAGNOLIAS.
A LTHOUGH the summer-flowering Mag-
/% nolias fail to produce the wonderful
/ \ profusion of bloom which is such a
/ % characteristic feature of the earlier-
•^ *- flowering kinds, their blossoms are
wonderfully beautiful, and in some
instances they are borne over a period of several
months. Unfortunately, the plants are, like their
colder parts of the country, and for that reason
they are sometimes thought to be more tender
than they really are, and are therefore excluded
from gardens where they might reasonably be
expected to thrive.
Sweet soil on the moist side and fairly free
from lime suits them admirably, perhaps the
most satisfactory rooting medium of all being
formed by digging a little peat and leaf-mould
into light loam.
Magnolia grandiflora is one of the most im-
portant summer-flowering species, for it is worth
growing both on account of its fine flowers and hand-
IHE SWAMP BAY MAGNOLIA (M. GLAUCA).
United States, it is there known as the Bull Bay,
and grows into a tree of timber size. Here it varies
a good deal, according to the position it occupies.
In the South and West Counties it is a famiUar
object as a large bush or small tree in the open
ground, but in other places it is usually planted
against high walls. In either position it is an
eminently satisfactory plant, for its fragrant white
flowers, which are often 9 inches or more across,
are borne from early July until late September.
The leaves on different plants vary in character.
As a rule they are oblong in form and from 7 inches
to ID inches long, thick and leathery. Some,
however, are covered by a dense, reddish brown
pubescence on the tmder surface, while others
are quite plain, intermediate kinds also being
found. Several forms have been selected for
varietal names. The best of all is gloriosa, a form
with shapely leaves and large, handsome, cup-
shaped blossoms, the petals of which are con-
spicuous by reason of their beautiful shape and
the purity of their colour. Angustifolia and
lanceolata are distinguished by their narrow leaves,
ferruginea by the reddish under surface of its
foliage, tmdulata by the undulating margins
of its leaves, and variegata by its variegated
leaves. The last named cannot be very
highly recommended.
M. hypoleuca is a handsome deciduous tree
from Japan. In that country it grows 70 feet or
80 feet high, but it has not attained half that
height in this country up to the present, and
good examples are rare. In leafage it most
closely resembles the North American M. tripetala,
the leaves being very large and handsome. The
flowers are, however, more attractive than those
of that species, for they are larger, more fragrant,
and the petals of greater substance. The pet.ils
are alternately white and cream, and the stamens
crimson. Expanded flowers are often 8 inches
across. The bright red fruits are also of great
decorative value.
M. Fraseri is one of the better-known kinds
from the Southern United States, where it forms
a tree quite 40 feet high. Here it often develops
with a short trunk and large rounded head. Its
July 25, 1914]
THE GARDEN.
379
handsome deciduous leaves are often over a foot
long and 7 inches or 8 inches wide, while its creamy
white or pale buff, fragrant flowers are from
6 inches to 8 inches in diameter. It may be
considered as one of the hardier sorts.
M. glauoa, sometimes called the Swamp Bay
or Laurel Magnolia, may be either evergreen
or deciduous, according to the locality from which
the seeds were derived. It has a wide distribution
in the United States, and plants from the more
southerly limits are usually evergreen. Here it
forms a bush 12 feet
or 15 feet high, with
oval leaves 3 inches to
5 inches long, the upper
surface green and the
under side glaucous. The
white, cup-shaped flowers
are between 2 inches and
3 inches across, and borne
over a period of quite
three months.
M. macrophylla is one
of the aristocrats of the
family, not only in
flowers, but in foliage
also. In its home in the
Southern United States it
grows into a large tree,
but there are few really
fine examples in this
country, the best being
in the garden of H.R.H.
the Duchess of Albany
at Claremont. The leaves
of this species are some-
times 18 inches long and
8 inches or g inches
across, bluish green above
ind silvery beneath. The
fragrant flowers are pale
yellow or deep cream in
colour and 9 inches or
more across. It is not
very hardy in a young
state, but after the first
few years it appears to
be better able to with-
stand cold.
M. tripetala, the
Umbrella Tree or Elk-
wood of the United
States, is also a decora-
tive tree, for it has large
leaves sometimes more
than a foot long, and
large white flowers, which
are succeeded by showy
red fruits. Between it
and M. glauca a hybrid
has been raised which is
known imder the name
of M. thompsoniana. It
is of rather loose habit
and intermediate in clia acter between the
parents, perhaps more free flowering than either.
The white blossoms arc borne from Jtme to
August.
M. Delavayi is a new tree from Yunnan, In
that country it grows upwards of forty feet high,
but it is doubtful whether it will form a tree in
this country except in the mildest localities, for
it is not very hardy, even against a wall near
London, the younger wood being liable to injury
if a severe spell of frost is experienced. The
evergreen leaves are large and handsome, 7 inches
to 12 inches long, 5 inches to 7 inches wide,
and, on vigorous plants, of a bluish green colour.
The creamy white flowers are 6 inches to 8 inches
across, rather cup-shaped and fragrant.
M. acuminata, the Cucumber Tree of the
United States, is perhaps the hardiest of all
Magnolias, and at the same time the least orna-
mental. It grows into a tree 40 feet or 50 feet
high in this country, with leaves 6 inches to
9 inches long and 3 inches to 5 inches wide, and
ARCHWAY AND FLOWER BORDERS IN THE KITCHEN GARDEN AT HARLEYFORD.
with small greenish flowers, which are succeeded
by small Cucumber-like fruits ; hence the common
name. Closely allied to this is the smaller-growing
M. cordata, also a native of the United States.
Its yellowish flowers are more showy than those
of the last named, but of no special merit. With
the exception of M. grandiflora — the most
important of them all by virtue of its beautiful
flowers and handsome evergreen foliage — the
summer-flowering Magnolias are not so well
known as they should be. D.
ARCHES IN GARDENS.
WHEN suitably clothed with climb-
ing plants, arches add con-
siderably to the beauty of
either flower garden or kitchen
garden, always providing that
they are suitably placed. It
needs but a glance at the accompanying photo-
graph, taken in Lady Clayton's garden at Harley-
ford, Bucks, to note how
effectively an archway
may be clothed even in
a kitchen garden. In
this instance the main
walk in the kitchen
garden is bordered with
herbaceous flowers, and
the effect is pleasing in
the extreme. The wide
arched openings in the
walls, through which
pleasant views are ob-
tained, afford ample
opportunity for the
generous planting of
suitable climbers.
.Clematis montana and
various ornamental Vines,
including Vitis purpurea
and Ampelopsis hederacea,
are used with delightful
eiiect, mingled witli
Wistaria multijuga and
W. sinensis. There is no
lack of subjects suitable
for planting in such
situations, and in addi-
tion to those already
mentioned the following
are also to be recom-
mended: Actinidia
chinensis, one of the
most beautiful of all
hardy climbers in foliage,
although the flowers are
rarely seen ; Aristolochia
Sipho, or the Dutchman's
Pipe, suitable for a
warm aspect ; Japanese
and European Honey-
suckles ; Polygonum
baldschuanicum, a beau-
tiful climber from
Bokhara, with a wealth
of pink and white flowers,
borne in June and again
later in the summer ; and
.^kebia lobata.
Roses are also well
adapted for this purpose,
and a suitable selection
would include A 1 b e r i c
Barbier, Rosa moschata alba, Rosa sinica Anemone
(otherwise known as the Cherokee Rose) and
Ards Rover. Such red-flowered varieties as
American Pillar ought not to be grown against
brick walls, for neither red nor pink flowers are
seen to advantage in association with brickwork.
With so wide a selection of climbing plants there
is no reason why archways, with a little care
in planting, should not be made both attractive
and interesting at practically all seasons of the
year.
380
THE GARDEN.
[July 23, 1914-
ROSE-GROWING IN
GARDENS.
TOWN
THE removal of fading blooms, besides
being necessary for the sake of tidiness,
help^ to conserve the energy of the
plants, much of which is spent in the
production of the flowers. In efiecting
this a certain amount of the growth
is removed, so that a sort of secondary pruning
takes place at this time of the year. It is some-
times a matter of difSculty for a gardener to
know exactly how far the growths may be cut
back. Those who like to gather their blooms
naturally wish to have them with long stems,
while others who prefer to see them in the garden
are often loath to remove a fraction more of the
wood than is necessary. There is no doubt that
a wholesale stripping of the tree causes a loss of
vitality, not only on account of the wasted sap,
thing in the nature of severe cutting is likely to
lessen rather than increase the chances of good
blooms in the succeeding crop.
A full-blown Rose is the favourite resort of
earwigs, and these should always be looked for
and destroyed as the flowers are gathered. One
needs to examine the flowers night and morning
for traces of these pests where they are numerous,
for the damage they do is frequently very apparent
if they are left undisturbed for a day. A good
method of trapping these insects is to place a
number of short lengths of hollow Bamboo cane
upon the ground around the plants, and examine
these each morning ; but Rose petals are un-
doubtedly the finest form of " bait " for them,
so one should make certain that none escapes
when these are gathered. A particularly, difficult
pest is the earwig, and man seems to be almost
the only destroying agency in our town gardens,
for very few birds will eat them. Nature has a
wav of adjusting things, however, and, fortunately.
MILTONIA VEXILLARIA REV. W. WILKS
but because of the check which it gives to the
roots. On the other hand, if only the stem of
the flower is removed, the result is a superfluous
niunber of weak, crowded shoots, which it is
desirable to avoid. One may usually cut away
about half the growth with ; safety, of course
using discretion in doing so. There may, for
example, be other buds which it is desired to see
flower, in which case one would naturally sever
the shoot at a point which would allow of this.
It is also essential to bear in mind the future shape
■ot each tree, and one should therefore cut to an
outward eye.
Now that the first crop of bloom is past, it is a
g0)d plan to go over the trees carefully and slightly
trim those that require it. Weak shoots which
have come blind should have been removed in their
ciilier stages, but some are apt to get overlooked,
and these ought to be cut out. The aim should
be always to keep the centre of each plant open,
and the timely removal of a few thin and useless
branches will often help in doing so. But there
should be no " hacking " of the plants, for any-
tlie winter proves fatal to most of them, or we
should be overwhelmed. P. L. Goddard.
SEASONABLE NOTES ON
CHRYSANTHEMUMS.
IN July, especially towards the end O'f the
month, the plants grow freely if the roots
are in a suitable medium. It is a
fact that Chrysanthemums make very
strong growth towards the end of the
summer ; more, it seems, in comparison,
than in their early stages. The plants thrive
best in a cool temperature ; although they make
rapid growth in spring if subjected to much heat,
the quality of the shoots is very poor. As the
dewy nights come, so do the plants thrive. In
the absence of rain and dew, syringing late in
the afternoon on fine days will prove very bene-
ficial. Syringing would chill the plants if done
in cold, dull weather.
Cultivators should closely examine their plants.
If they find the wood — stems^very hard now
and the leaves small and tough, they should
syringe the foliage heavily on every suitable day ;
if they find the stems soft and long-jointed, with
very large, brittle leaves, then syringe much less
frequently, as the proper maturing of the wood
would be delayed too much. The object of the
cultivator this month must be to promote a
sound, healthy growth of plant, so that when
the buds appear in August they will quickly develop,
and also the surrounding shoots, to a stage when
" taking " of buds will be work quickly carried
out. Buds and shoots that are slow in developing
to the stage when " taking " should be done
usually mean short flower-stems, and short petals
that are too narrow and too numerous when the
blooms are fully out ; but very frequently such
buds never develop fully in the centre.
Early Feeding. — Very weak doses of dear
soot-water and manure-water may be given as
the roots fill the pots ; but soot-water made from
fresh soot and given very strong does much harm —
it bums the tender roots. Clear liquid made from
soot that has been stored in a shed for several
months is the only kind fit to use. Dirty soot-water
does harm, as the sediment blocks the pores of
the soil.
Early Top-dressing. — This is very beneficial
if done in the right way. Some very good loam must
be passed through a half-inch-mesh sieve'; treat
half-rotted leaf-soil in a similar way ; use two parts
loam and one part leaf-soil. To a bushel of the
combined parts add a peck of rotted manure,
also sifted, a 6-inch potful of bone-meal, and a
concentrated manure according to the instructions
given with it. Now, instead of putting on the
mixture in one thick layer, sprinkle on a little
only — just enough to cover the surface soil in the
pots, and then water through a rosed watering-
can. In a few days' time, directly the young roots
show through, put on another thin layer of the
prepared compost. The cultivator can ascertain
the true state of the soil below, as to whether it is
dry or moist, by tapping the pots.
Side Shoots. — .Ml side shoots must be pinched
out while quite small, so as to concentrate the
full strength of the plants in the main stems and
leaves.
Premature Bud Formation. — Some varieties
bear buds prematurely much more frequently
than others. Any buds forming before July 25
must be removed at once, unless they are borne
on very late-flowering varieties, such as the Hon.
.Mrs. Lopes ; then, gradually " take " the buds, as
later-formed ones would be useless if these are
removed. On earlier varieties July buds must
be removed, as those appearing at the end of
.\ugust will be of better quality. Avon.
NEW AND RARE PLANTS.
AWARDS OF MERIT.
Gladiolus Eldorado. — .A variety of merit and
distinction. The large, widely expanding flowers
of soft canary yellow tone are rendered con-
spicuous by bold, irregular blotches of reddish
crimson on the lower petals. We recall nothing
so remarkably distinct and good. Exhibited by
Messrs. James Kthvay and Son, Langport.
Michauxia Tchihatcheffl. — .\ remarkable plant
of the Bellflower Order, from Asia Minor, of some-
what difficult or at least uncertain cultivation.
July 25, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
381
ROSE MAJESTIC.
This was one of the most fragrant of the gold
medal Roses at the National Rose Society's
summer show held recently in Regent's Park.
As described in last week's issue, it is a Hybrid
Tea of vigorous, upright habit, with stout, spiny
stems. The large, well-formed flowers are of a
glowing soft vermilion pink. It was shown by
Messrs. WilUam Paul and Son, Limited, Waltham
Cross, Herts, and is quite an acquisition for
either garden or decorative purposes.
NEMESIA MARSDEN JONES' STRAIN.
The white, horizontally disposed flowers are
borne in a close spicate raceme, though branching
freely at the base in good specimens. The woolly
leaves are toothed, the barren rosettes lying
almost prostrate on the ground. Shown by Miss
Willmott, Great Warley.
Nemesia Marsden Jones' Strain. — In this
case the award was made to a strain characterised
by large flowers of red and crimson shades over a
golden ground colour. In some the upper lobes
of the corolla are almost wholly crimson, in others
they are crimson, chequered with gold. A very
beautiful race. From Mr. E. Marsden Jones,
Malpas.
A FEW
GOOD FORCING
ROSES.
Now that Rose forcing is over, it may be
useful to look back and form conclu-
sions of what proved of most service
during the winter and spring. Many
old favourites are still unbeaten,
but I can give the highest praise to
the following from among our newer varieties :
NEW ORCHIDS.
Three first-class certificates were awarded for
novelties of unusual interest. Mr. J. Gurney
Fowler of Brackenhurst, Pembury, Kent, showed
Miltonia vexillaria Rev. W. Wilks, with immense
pale pink flowers nearly five inches in depth
and over three inches across. It was raised by
crossing M. v. gigantea with M. v. Queen Alexandra.
Mr; F. Mentieth Ogilvie, The Shrubbery, Oxford,
Showed a magnificent variety of Odontoglossum
percultum named King George ; but the greatest
triumph among new Orchids was the bigeneric
hybrid Odontonia Charlesworthii, from Messrs.
Charlesworth and Co. This is unquestionably
the finest Odontonia yet raised, the lip being
bright purple red and the petals deeper red.
Parentage : Odontoglossum Uro-Skinneri x
Miltonia vexiUaria.
An award of merit was granted to Brasso-
Cattleya Ilene The Dell Variety, shown by Baron
Schroder, The Dell, Englefield Green.
The foregoing awards were made at the fort-
nightly meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society
on July 14.
Lady Hillingdon is now by al! generally known
as a good forcer. It was recognised as such before
its introduction, taking quite a front place among
our market growers. It has good foliage and each
flower is carried well ; the colour is the most
intense orange yellow while young, which it keeps
better than most yellows. It has very long buds,
and is one of the freest bloomers. It is likely to be
one of the most extensively grown under glass,
and is also much better in the open than was
generally thought at its first introduction. It is
indeed beautiful in the autumn.
Mme. Edouard Herriot has been exhibited well
both last season and this. As a forcer it must
be good, and cannot fail to prove a fine bedder.
My own stock of plants are doing well, and where
price is no great object I strongly advise a few
being tried for winter forcing. Coral red, shaded
with yellow and rosy scarlet. Not a full Rose,
hut very freely borne and opening well.
Sunburst is certainly one of the best of 1912.
We seem to be minus the disappointment of pale-
coloured flowers when forcing this variety. In
the open it is not satisfactory until warm weather
sets in, when it is among the best right up to the
time of frost. A stout-petalled and beautifully
carried bloom of clear orange yellow with a deeper
centre, lasting well when cut young and retaining
its colour. It is bound to become one of our most
popular forcing varieties.
I am giving these notes early as a guide towards
the selection and preparation of our best newer
varieties for next winter's blooming, which should
be taken in hand soon.
Uckfield. A. P.
THE NEW ROSE MAJESTIC.
Melody has jumped to the front as a reliable
forcer, so much so as to already figure among the
few varieties regularly grown for market purposes,
which in itself is the best possible proof as a reliable
one for early culture. This is one of the best
pure saffron yellows we have, being very rich in
the centre, with clear primrose yellow edges.
The flowers are invariably carried bold and upright
upon a stiff stem, open well, retain their exquisite
form for a long time, are very freely produced
and sweet-scented. This is ■ also a grand Rose
for the open air, particularly as a bedder. It is
claimed to be mildew-proof, and has proved so
with me, both under glass and outside, since its
introduction in 1911.
Ophelia came from Waltham Cross a year
later, and has taken a high position here. This
is another splendid forcer and carries its flower
well ; free in every way, and also a good outdoor
bedder. A clear salmon flesh centre shaded
with rose, and altogether a great acquisition.
GLADIOLUS ELDORADO.
382
THE GARDEN.
[July 25, 1914-
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
The Early Vines. — Lateral growth may now
be cut hard back, in order to expose the Vines
to the sun, so that the wood may be thoroughly
ripened. Examine the borders, and if necessary
give a good soaking of water, previous to which
a sprinkling of Thomson's Vine Manure may be
applied.
Cucumber Plants for late autumn supplies
should now be ready for planting. It is better
to make several plantations during the season
than to rely on plants which have become ex-
hausted.
Melons.— The latest plantation of Melons
may now be made, in order to produce ripe fruits
in October. Plant 4 feet apart and secure the
first batch of flowers.
Plants Under Glass.
Roman Hyacinths.— These are always welcome,
and to have them early the bulbs should be potted
with as little delay as possible. Do not make
the soil too hard underneath the bulbs, but simply
press them into the compost and make firm round
them After potting, they may be placed on
a bed of ashes and covered with several inches
of the same material, which should be passed
through a fine sieve.
Poinsettias.— The earliest batch of plants
can now receive their final shift into 6-inch or
7-inch pots, according to the state of the plants.
Crow in a temperature of 70° and expose the
plants to as much light as they will stand without
flagging. Ventilation must be given to keep
them from becoming too soft.
Salvia splendens.— Plants for winter flowering
should now receive their final shift. Nine-inch
pots will not be too large if the plants are growing
freely The soil may consist of three parts turfy
loam and one part decayed horse-manure. Pot
moderately firm and protect from heavy rain
until the pots are well fiJled with roots, when they
may be placed on a bed of ashes in the open garden
until the weather becomes too cold at night.
The Flower Garden.
Pentstemons. — Some varieties are in full bloom,
and should receive supports to keep them from
injury by rough wind. Mrs. Fulford, a variety
of recent introduction, is now throwing up strong
spikes of rich red flowers of good substance and
size Stir the soil between the plants and give
a top-dressing of decayed horse-manure with as
little delay as possible. Liberal supplies of water
may afterwards be given.
Gladioli.— These are making good, clean growth
and pushing up their flower-spikes, which will
require neat stakes to keep them. in an upright
position Do not allow them to suffer from want
of moisture at the roots, and, if dry weather sets
in, a mulching of decayed manure will do much
to' keep them in a clean, healthy condition.
Sweet Peas.— As the flowers show signs of
decay, they should be carefully removed from the
plants before any seed-pods are formed, m order
to prolong the flowering period as far into the
autumn as possible, and with the same object
in view frequent applications of manure-water
may be given.
Spiraeas.— Astilbe palmata, A. Davidii, A. Queen
Alexandra and A. Peach Blossom, if planted
in bold groups by the water's edge, present an
imposmg appearance ; but unless the roots reach
the water-level they must receive daily attention
with the water-pot. They will also benefit by a
mulching of some moisture-retaining material.
The Rock Garden.
Dianthi which are passing out of flower
should be trimmed back, in order to produce
stocky young shoots for propagation. Dianthus
alpinus, a beautiful rock garden plant, may easily
be increased in this way or by seeds, and should
be planted' in poor, moist soil, where it forms
a dwarf, compact plant with flower-stems only a
few inches long.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Apples, Pears and Plums are swelling fast
and trees carrying heavy crops require careful
thinning. For this purpose a pair of good scissors
is the best implement. As this work proceeds,
care must be taken to leave the fruits which are
best placed with regard to sunshine. In the
first place, all deformed fruits should be removed,
leaving only such as will develop into good speci-
mens and nothing beyond what can be brought to
maturity without injuring the prospects for
the following season. Many of the side growths
may be shortened, in order "to admit light and air
to the middle of the trees and with a view to
forming fruit-buds for another year. This shorten-
ing of the growths, if acconiplished before this
date, will sometimes cause new growths to break
from the eyes, which are of no value and have to
be cut away at a later date, thus defeating the
object of forming fruit-buds.
The Kitchen Garden.
Turnips for Winter Supplies.— A good sowing
of Turnip seed should be made now, and another
in ten days' time. Allow 18 inches between the
rows, as nothing is gained by overcrowding.
Spinach for Late Autumn Supplies may be
sown at once, and for mnter about the middle
of August. Allow 18 inches between the rows for
this crop, and thin out the seedlings to 4 inches
apart as soon as large enough.
French Beans. — If cold pits are available,
several plantations may be made during August
for the supply of pods in October and November.
The lights should be removed until cold weather
sets in during the autumn.
Early Potatoes. — As soon as the skins are
set, this crop should be lifted and stored for future
use. The ground will then be available for
Coleworts or other winter crops.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Runner Beans. — These are growing rapidly,
and attention must be given to see that the vines
are taking to their supports. If allowed to fall
over, they get so entwined that it is next to
impossible to do anything with them.
Mushrooms.^Preparations for a supply of
Mushrooms in the autumn may now be made.
Collect fresh horse-manure and have it placed in
layers in a dry shed, where it should be turned
each day. Meantime, opportunity can be taken
to have the Mushroom-house thoroughly washed
downfand everything made ready for making a
start. ' ■'
Cucumbers. — Those growing in frames will
now claim attention in the way of feeding and
regulating the shoots. Endeavour to keep the
foliage healthy, and cut the fruits regularly from
the plants ; otherwise, if allowed to mature, the
plants soon show signs of exhaustion.
Lettuce and Endive should be thinned out to
avoid crowding, and make another sowing of
each for winter use. Where a sowing of Parsley
was made at7the beginning of June, the young
plants ought to be ready for thinning. A number
of these thinnings can be dibbled into frames ;
these will make nice plants before the winter,
and will prove a very useful crop indeed.
The Flower Garden.
Layering Carnations. — In light, sandy soil
it is sometimes not necessary to prepare it
f.ir this work, but on the whole it will pay to make
up a light compost in which to put the layers.
Should the weather be dry, give them a
slight dewing in the evening. At the sarne
time, my experience is that they root best in
a dry season.
Hedges. — To keep hedges of Yew, Pri\-et or
Laurel in good condition, as well as from an orna-
mental point of view, they must be kept closely
clipped. In the case of Laurels, it is most impor-
tant to remember that they should never be
trimmed with the shears, but always with a knife.
It certainly takes much longer to^do the work,
but they look much better when finished, and
there is no doubt it is better for the hedge.
Ancbusas. — As the first flowers will be almost
over, the flower-stems should be shortened back
to where the new growths are appearing. These
new growths will in a favourable season send up
some nice flower shoots late in the autumn, which
will give an added beauty to the herbaceous
border and will associate well with the prevailing
yellows of that season.
Lavender. — Where the flowers of this fine
old-fashioned plant are required for household
purposes, they should now be ready for harvesting.
In this connection it is important to remember
that they must be gathered before they are
fully expanded. Tie them in small bimches
and place them in a cool house, on a shelf which
has previously been covered with paper, until
they are perfectly dry.
Violas. — In a great many districts Viola cuttings
will be difficult to obtain owing to the drought ex-
perienced lately. There is still time, however,
to save the situation by going over the plants
and removing all faded flowers. Give the plants a
good soaking at the roots two or three times.
Plants Under Glass.
Deciduous Calantbes. — These should now be
well rooted, and will require to be more liberally
treated in the way of watering, and, if judiciously
apphed, a little weak liquid manure occasionally.
But much damage may be done to the young
growths if water is allowed to collect at the base.
This must be guarded against at all costs.
Ferns for Bowls. — During the past year or
two there has been an increasing demand for
ornamental bowls filled with bulbs and small
Pterises for blooming indoors during the
winter months. For this purpose pot up the
required number at once into 3-inch pots. The
varieties Pteris major and P. Wimsettii are
especially suited for this work. In most places
no difficulty will be expTicnced in securing a
sufficient number of plants from self-sown spores ;
if not, young plants can be purchased very cheaply
from Fern-growers.
Stocks. — Some time ago I remarked on the
excellence of these plants for providing a supply
of cut flowers in the spring. The first sowing
should be made without delay. The varieties
I have found most suited for this work are Princess
Alice, Beauty of Nice and, as a charming com-
panion. Emperor (Augusta Victoria). Sow one or
two seeds in small pots and place them in a cold
frame, eventually thinning them to one plant
in each pot, and from the very outset avoid any-
thing in the nature of coddhng. Pot on as
required, and remember that they will amply
compensate for a little extra care and attention.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Peaches. — The trees may now be gone over
and all superfluous shoots shortened back. The
growths that are to furnish the tree should be
so arranged that the fruits will be exposed to the
sun. It is surprising what a delightful hue
Peaches in the open take on when exposed to
the full glare of the sun ; not only so, but the
flavour is also much improved thereby.
Apples. — Trees which are carrying heavy crops
must be assisted by frequent doses of liquid manure,
and have a good mulching of manure placed over
the roots.
Fruits Under Glass.
Vines. — Houses in which Grapes arc beginning
to colour should have air admitted top and bottom
during the night, and at the same time keep up
a Httle fire-heat. In order to prevent the inside
border becoming dry, give a mulch of manure
from a spent Mushroom-bed, or, failing that,
meadow hay would answer the same purpose.
Continue to remove lateral growths as they appear,
and every means should be taken to keep red
spider in check.
Tomatoes. — Where a supply of Tomatoes is
desired during the winter, the seed should be
sown without delay. As soon as the young
seedlings appear, they must be placed close to the
roof glass to prevent them becoming drawn.
When the seedlings have been potted, place them
in a cool house where they will have full exposure
to light and air.
John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of LinUthgow.)
HopHoun Gardens, South Qucens/erry, N. B.
ULY 25, I9I4.]
THE GARDEN.
383
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
Every department 0/ horticulture is represented in THE
Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions
relating to matters upon ivhieh theii irish expert advice.
The Editor welcomes p/iotix/raplis, articles and notes,
but he will not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.
As ref/ards photographs, if payment be dc-'iired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
qrapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.
The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions wliich he may not be able to use, and
the re^eiptJof a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden ivill alotie
be recoqnised as acceptance.
Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.G.
ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor endeavours
to make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire
assistance, no matter ivhat the branch of gardening may be,
and with that object makes a special feature of the "Ansivers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher.
FLOWER GARDEN.
SOLDANELLAS (M. W. S.).^li is obviously an instance
of the development of latent flower-buds — a not unusual
circumstance with many plants. In fruit trees, for
example, both fruit and flowers are occasionally seen on
the same spray, and your Soldanclla with " ripe seed "
(fruit) and "fresh flowers on the same stalk" is identical
in principle. We did not understand that this was so
from your former communication.
HEUCHERAS NOT FLOWERING (W. £.).— Have you
any particular variety in mind ? The only one having
any pretensions to shy flowering is H. sanguinea in certain
districts and in cold clay soils. There are varieties of it
that are much freer floweriuR. All the plants grow freely
in sandy loam, but, in addition, the one above referred
to prefers also a rather warm, well-drained soil and situa-
tion. The forms of H. gracillima and the hybrids between
this and the first named are proverbial for their free
fiowering ; hence we imagine you must be dealing with
a poor type of the original. The best methods of increase
are by seeds and by division of the crown tufts in spring.
The plants divide quite readily, and if firmly replanted in
rich soil soon become established again.
PLANTS FOR BANK IN WOOD (A. H. B.) — You have
obviously a good opportunity for some natural effects,
though just what would be the best plants could only
be accurately determined on the spot. In any case, we
think you cannot err in planting the Winter Heath (Erica
carnea) for winter and early spring, with also the taller-
growing Portuguese Heath (Erica lusitanica) for later
effect. Almost all the Lastreas, Polypodiums and
Athyriums would do well in the sandy soil, provided also
that the conditions are cool and the rooting medium fairly
deep. We should hesitate before planting Azaleas, unless
it was in or near woodland scenes. Almost all the fine-
leaved Japanese Maples would do well in sandy, loamy
soils, and you may select at mil from golden, crimson and
green leaved sorts, all of which are beautiful. The finer
colour effects these afford are only secured by exposure to
full light ; shade is detrimental thereto. For the rest,
you might plant a few of the more graceful Bamboos near
the water, also Spirseas, Astilbes and Eulalias. On the
rough bank, if you discourage the Bracken and other wild
material, many things might be grown. Double Gorse
and some of the Brooms would be effective, and Foxgloves
might prove very charming. It would require a more
intimate knowledge of the spot and your own intentions in
the direction of beautifying it to give a more definite reply.
TREES AND SHRUBS.
OLD HEATHS (A. K. M.).— The best thing to do with
your old Ericas would be to destroy those which have out-
grown their positions and have become bare towards the
base. Such plants, if cut back, would not start away
well, neither would they bear transplanting well. By
starting again with young plants your bed would be far
more satisfactory than at prese'nt. The best winter
Heaths for your district are Erica mediterranea hybrida.
E. carneft and E. carnea alba ; for spring, E. mediter-
ranea : for summer, E. cinerea and varieties, E. Tetralix
and E. stricta ; and for autumn, E. ciliaris and variety
maweana, E. vagana and varieties, Dabo^cia polifoUa, and
Calluna \-ulgaris and varieties.
DOUBLE LILACS AND SEED {J. Q. N.).—\t is not usual
for double flowcM's to produce seeds, but in an inflorescence
of usually double flowers some may be single or partly so,
the reproductive organs being perfect. In such cases
seeds may be produced, or. in some instances, the ovaries
may swell up without maturing seeds. The fruits of the
Lilac heads similar to the one sent for examination will not
mature after the flower-beads have been removed, and if
kept they will be of no use.
A WINTER-FLOWERING CLIMBER (IT. IT.).— If
you wish fur a \vinter- flowering climber, you cannot do
better than select Jasminum nudiflorum, for it blossoms
for about two months from December onwards. If,
however, you prefer a plant to bloom in May, use Clematis
montana rulwns. It is a vigorous kind, which does
not suffer from disease, as many kinds do, and it blossoms
freely. If you obtain a plant in a pot, it may be planted
any time ; otherwise in October. You may plant Ivy
against your wall in October.
ROSE GARDEN.
PINK GLOIRE DE DIJON {H. G.).— Yes ; there is a
Rose named Kaiserin Friedrich that bears flowers much like
GJoire de Dijon, only that they are shaded with pink. If,
as you say, one shoot bears flowers of a good pink colour,
you should bud from this shoot. Ask some local gardener
to bud it for you on to a Briar, or even on to another Rose.
You could put cuttings in also from the half-ripened wood.
Put the cuttings under a hand-light in the shade, using
nice sandy soil to place them in.
TWELVE FRAGRANT AND FREE-BLOOMING ROSES
{Pauvret). — An excellent selection would be as follows :
Mme. Abel Chatenay, Mme. Ravary, Pharitfier, General
Macarthur, Duchess of Wellington, Lieutenant Chaure,
Liberty, Laurent Carle, Viscountess Folkestone, Rlrs. John
Laing, Mrs, Walter Easlea and Hugh Dickson.
FRUIT GARDEN.
CANKER IN APPLE TREE (GeraB).— Yes ; your Apple
is badly attacked by canker. The affected portions should
be cut out as soon as possible and the wounds painted over
with lead paint or tar, otherwise the disease is bound to
spread. You will flnd a long article dealing with this
disease in a recent issue.
PEACH MILDEW {3. C. ^•.).— The Peach is attacked
by Peach mildew. Keep the house well ventilated, and,
if the disease spreads, spray with a solution of potassium
sulphide, at the rate of loz. to four gallons of water, in the
evening. The Rose has apparently suffered a check
during its development, and has subsequently grown on.
FIG TREE CASTING ITS FRUIT (5. R. J.).— We think
that the tree must now be at the flowering stage. If
this is so, it is nothing unusual for a tree to cast a few
fruits at this time. If the tree casts all its fruit one year
after another, then there must be something radically
^vTong in your mode of culture. Generally the failure
arises from the fact of the tree being too heavily furnished
with branches and foliage during the summer. You must
remember that the fruit of next year is borne on the
branches of this year's growth. If this is not properly
developed and nurtured by exposure to all sunshine, light
and air possible, then it cannot bear fruit. If your tree
is at all overcrowded with branches of this year's growth,
do not hesitate a day in cutting out the weakest to give
the others a better chance.
GRAPES BADLY SHANKED {Thaley Parfc).— The
Grapes were a rotted pulp when received, and the letter
steeped in the same, making it difficult to decipher. Yours
is a bad case of shanking — caused, we think, by- serious
root trouble. How this has been brought about it is
difficult for us to know, but most likely by applying too
heavy doses of artificial manure. These manures are
valuable and indispensable helps when applied with
discretion and knowledge in the growth of Grapes ; but
when applied in too heavy dressings, then they do
incalculable harm. We believe that you will find many of
the roots have collapsed, and are more or less dead. To
bring the Vines round, your best plan will be to lift the roots
to within 2 feet of the wall of the vinery and thoroughly
examine them, cutting away the weak and impaired, and re-
laying the rest in a new border made of best Vine-
growing compost. You will soon get your Vines round
by doing this, and in no other way.
ABOUT APPLE TREES {Shirley). —The Apple foliage
and fruit are both attacked by aphides, and it is these
which are causing the red coloration on both. Spraying
with quassia and soft soap, with nicotine, or with one of
the proprietary sprays that are so numerous, and many of
which are good, in early spring would reduce the attack
markedly. The shoot of Apple Mannington's Pearmain is
attacked by Apple mildew, and no amount of spraying
is likely to cause its disappearance, as the fungus is perennial
in the tissues of the Apple shoots. The only method to
adopt is to prune away and burn the affected shoots in
early spring as soon as they can be seen. Spraying for
Codhn moth is not likely to be an effective preventive
unless a food poison spray is used and sprayed forcibly
on the fruit so that it enters the eye of the Apple. Quassia
and nicotine are not food poisons ; the best is lead arsenate ;
lead acetate should not be used. Codlin moth is rather an
uncommon pest in this country at the present time, and
the depredations of the Apple sawfly are often mistaken
for it. Spraying may check this to a slight extent, but
the beat check 1b Imposed by the prompt collection of
fallen fruits and their destruction by fire.
MISCELLANEOUS.
INJURY TO SWEET PEAS (A. il.).— The material
sent is insufficient to enable us to diagnose the disease.
Please send a complete plant.
GRUBS FOR IDENTIFICATION (A. JP.).— Neither of
the grubs sent is harmful. The active one is the larva
of one of the ground beetles, and feeds on other insects.
The other is the larva of a two-winged fly, which feeds
on vegetable refuse.
CABBAGE ROOT MAGGOT (Mrs. £.).— The little whitish
maggot is the Cabbage root maggot, which is often very
troublesome through attacking Cabbages, Cauliflowers,
and other plants belonging to the Cabbage family. The
best thing to do to protect the plants from the maggot is
to dust sand, damped with paraffin, along the rows. This
will help to keep tlie parent fly from laying her eggs, and so
prevent the attack of the pest. The other grub is the wire-
worm, and for this constant hoeing is necessary. Where
tiiere are plants which need protection in wire worm-
infested ground, a piece of Potato or Carrot may be buried
witli a stick marking the spot. Examine it at frequent
intervals and destroy the captures,
NAMES OF PLANTS.— TT, J, fl,— Roses : 1, faUen ;
2, Mme. d'Arblay ; 3, Joseph Lamy ; 4, Rosa lucida
plena ; 5, Paul Transon ; 6, Mrs. Waterer. E. W. N. —
Both specimens of Centranthus ruber are typical examples
of the species. It is not unusual for some variation of
colour to occur. Both shades are often seen. The
Rhododendron is R. azaleoides, a hybrid between an
evergreen Rhododendron and a deciduous species of
Azalea, H., Ongar. — Roses : 1, Margaret Dickson ;
2, Baroness Rothschild ; 3, Rev. Alan Cheales.
A. M. B.y Longformaeus. — Rose Euphrosyne, Salvia
Grahamii and Serapias Lingua. Mrs. D., Salisbury. —
1, Campanula rapunculoides ; 2, C. alliariEefolia : 3, C.
linifolia, N. Y. — 1, Galium verum ; 2, Selaginella
Braunii ; 3, Selaginella species, cannot identify, too
scrappy ; 4, Helxine Solierolii ; 5, Sedum rupestre ;
6, S. acre. Wild Flowers. — 1, Hyoscyamus niger
(Henbane) ; 2, ErythrEca Centaurium (Centaury) ; 3,
Ononis spinosa ; 4, Galium Mollugo ; 5, Senecio JacobEEa ;
6, Agrimonia Eupatoria ; 7, Lotus uliginosus ; 8, Hyperi-
fum quadrangulare. burton. — Monarda didyma.
T. M., Bridport. — A aarden escape, native of North
America. E. M. H. — Spiisea arborescens. S. H. B.
— Carlina acauhs caule?cens. F. A. Sturge. — 1, Ver-
bascum Lychnites ; 2 and 3, two seedling forms of V.
denpiflorum ■ 4, V, Chaixii. Specimens of Verbascums
should include mature leaf in order to identify with any
certainty — — B. Cummings. — 1, Sedum rupestre ; 2, S.
reflexum ; 3, S. hybridum ; 4, S. roseum ; 5, S. Anacamp-
scros ; Q and 7, forms of S. spurium; 8. S nlbum : 9.
Arenaria montana.— — Constant Reader. — The yellow flower
is Lysimachia thyrsiflora; the Rose Fellenberg. Moc,
Deal, Kent, — Roses : 1, Newport Fairy ; 2, Excelsa,
SOCI ETI ES.
NATIONAL SWEET PEA SOCIETY'S SHOW.
The fourteenth annual exhibition in connection with the
above society was held in the Royal Horticultural Hall,
Vincent Square, Westminster, on Thursday, the 16th inst.
On account of the dry weather and the rather late date
of the show, a number of big seed firms, notably Messrs.
Sutton and Sons, Messrs. J. Carter and Co., Mr. W. J.
Umvin and Messrs. R. H. Bath, Limited, were unable
to stage their customary groups. Taldng all things into
consideration, however, the show was a very good
one indeed, and attracted a large number of visitors
during the afternoon. The new secretary, Mr. H. D.
Tigwell, had made excellent arrangements.
Non-competitive Grotjps.
These, as usual, were arranged around the walls of the
hall, and constituted an ideal setting to the gems of the
moment. There were some fourteen or fifteen of these
groups, which were virtually a show in themselves.
Taking the groups in order, we first came to that of
Messrs. E. W. King and Co. , Coggeshall, Essex , who arranged
a collection of the flowers in considerable variety and
beauty. It would have been better, we think, had the
flowers been staged lower down. The beauty of the Sweet
Pea cannot be estimated at 10 feet high. The collection
was quite a representative one.
Robert Sydenham, Limited, Birmingham, had a prettily
arranged group, using rustic and other vases of an artistic
nature. The arches of Princess Mary (deep blue) and
R. F. Felton (reddish mauve) were very nice, Robert
Sydenham (orange scarlet), Lilian (pink) and Barbara
(pale orange) were also excellent.
Messrs, Bide's (Farnham) arrangement consisted of
rather high-placed arches ornamented by Smilax, with
occasional vases of Sweet Peas. Lower down, vases of
the flowers ornamented with Asparagus Sprengeri were
the rule. Of these Princess Mary (blue), Sirs. Breadmore
(cream) and Phyllis Bide (scarlet) were the best.
Hobbies, Limited, Dereham, also arranged arches
of the flowers with vases below. The latter contained
some excellent examples, Marjorie Linzee (rose cerise),
Thomas Stevenson (orange). Jlrs. Hugh Wormald (pink
and cream) and Dorothy (rose and mauve) being good.
Rural floral decorations were arranged by Mr, Fred W.
Wood, Walworth, S.E.
Messrs, Jarman and Co., Chard, displayed a representa-
tive lot of the flowers of good quality, R. F. Felton,
Elsie Herbert, Lavender G. Herbert and Hercules (pink)
384
THE GARDEN.
[July 25, 1914.
being good. This group was ornamented by sprays of
the fragrant Humea elegans.
Messrs. Dickson, Belfast, had some excellent flowers
in a rather high-placed arrangement. Their vases of
Hilary Christy (rose and orange), Bobbie's Cream, Maud
Holmes (of which pillars were formed), Seamew (pale
mauve), Barbara (orange) and Orchid (mauve and rose)
were very fine. Blue Picotee, Eing "\^Tiite and Thomas
Stevenson were also notable examples in a fine lot.
Mr. James Box, Hayward's Heath, had an excellent
arrangement of the flowers in conjunction with high
quahty. Against a background of velvet three bold vases
were arranged ■with trails of Smilax and light Grasses.
The effect was decidedly good, the grouping being light,
yet telling. James Box, Elfrida Pearson, Lindfleld Grey,
Afterglow, Edna May Improved and Debbie's Cream
were very fine.
Messrs. C. C. Morse and Co., San Francisco, California,
showed the new Sweet Pea Margaret Atlee, a dehghtful
flower in pale and rose pink shades. A superb lot of the
flowers was displayed.
Messrs. Dobbie (Edinburgh) staged, as usual, a
particularly fine lot against a background of velvet
festooned by Smilax. The flowers were very fine. The
bolder vases we tliought a little too massively arranged.
Bobbie's Cream, Mrs. Heslington, Alfred Watkins (laven-
der), Queen of Norway (rosy mauve), Bed Star, ?fora
Unmn and Thomas Stevenson were the finer lots in a
very telling exhibit.
Mr. Robert Bolton, Carnforth, had a nice arrangement
of flowers opposed to a rather weak pale green background.
The flowers, too, were less fine than we are accustomed
to see from this exliibitor.
Mr. H. J. Damerem, Hayling Island, Hants, also con- j
tributcd a small group of these flowers.
Competitive Classes.
In Class 1, for eighteen bunches, distinct, three com-
petitors came to the front, the first prize, the Sutton
Cup, going to Mr. A. E. Usher, Eanston Gardens, Bland-
ford, who staged an admirable lot of flowers. His collec-
tion comprised Maud Holmes (crimson). May Campbell
(rose and cream), jMrs. Cuthbertson (apple blossom rose),
Prince George (rose and salmon), Edith Taylor (rose),
Lavender G. Herbert, Barbara (orange), Dobbie's Cream,
Mark's Tey (red and violet), W. P. Wright (lavender),
Princess Victoria (pink), White Queen, Thomas Stevenson
(orange), Edrom Beauty (orange and rose), Agricola
(pale pink) and King Manoel (maroon). A magnificent
set of varieties. Second, Mr. E. 1\. James, gardener
to Lord North, W^roxton Abbey, Banbury ; third, JVIr. J.
Stokes, Lyme Regis.
For the Henry Eckford Memorial Cup, twelve bunches
distinct, eight competitors contested, the premier award
going to JMrs. A. V. Macnamara, Ennistymon, County
Clare, Ireland, whose excellent group was made up of Orange
Perfection, Jirs. Hardcastle Sykes, Sunproof Crimson,
Xew Marquis (purple). Orchid (rosy mauve), Illuminator
(scarlet). Thomas Stevenson (scarlet orange), Elsie Herbert
Jpink and white), Hercules (rose), Audrey Crier, Wenvoe
Castle (violet and rose) and King Manoel. Second,
Mr, T. Stevenson, gardener to Mr. E. G. Mocatta, Woburn
Place, Addlestone, whose admirable lot was made up
of Lavender G. Herbert, Thomas Stevenson, King Manoel.
11. F. Felton, Elsie Herbert, Hercules, Orange Perfection.
New Marquis, Edith Taylor, William Cuthbertson, King
Edward Spencer and Mis. C. W. Breadmore. This was
a splendid exhibit, a very close second to the excellent
collection from Ireland. Third, Jliss Scrivens, Bcxhill-
on-Sea.
In Class 3, for six distinct bunches selected from varieties
put into commerce since autumn, 1912, only four lots
were staged, the first prize going to Mr. T Jones, Ruabon,
whose collection comprised Hluminator, King MTiite,
Agricola (piuk), Lavender George Herbert, Mark's Tey
and Thomas Stevenson. The varieties were shown in his
inimitable style. Second, Mr. B. Cowdy, Loughgall,
County Armagh.
Class 4, for three bunches, was only poorly represented.
Mr. Lewis S. Peters, St. Austell, Cornwall, had Lilian,
Hercules and Gladys Burt, all very good.
In the open classification class. Class 5, for a collection
of eighteen varieties, five competitors put up excellent
groups, the premier prize going to Jlr. E. Keith, gardener
to Sir G. O. Trevelyan, Bart., Wallington Hall, Cambs,
whose best were Barbara, Dobbie's Cream, Hercules,
Mrs. Hugh Dickson, Mark's Tey, Agricola and R. F. Felton.
The flowers generally were not of high excellence. Second,
Mr. A. Shakelton, Forde Abbey Gardens, Chard.
For twelve bunches of Sweet Peas, distinct, open to all,
five exhibitors staged collections of the flower, Mrs.
A. Y. Macnamara, County Clare, Ireland, leading the way
with a fine assortment, Ra.diance, Barbara, Margaret
Atlee, Mrs. E. Cowdy, Rlrs. C. W. Breadmore, Lavender
George Herbert, Wedgwood, Mrs. Hardcastle Sykes, Sun-
proof Crimson, King "NMiite and Rosabelle comprising the
collection ; an admirable set. well coloured and handsome
spikes. Second prize, Miss Scrivens. Millfield, Bexhill-on-
Sca, who also had a lovely lot of flowers.
For twelve bunches of Sweet Peas of lavender, cream
pink, scarlet and orange, only one exhibitor, Mr. A. E.
Usher, staged, and was awarded first prize.
In Class 8, for eighteen bunches of Sweet Peas suited
to garden decoration, two exhibilors staged collections,
the first prize going to Rlr, A. E. Usher, gardener to Sir
Randolf Baker, Bart., Blandford, whose excellent group
contained Thomas Stevenson, Clara Curtis, Lavender
George Herbert, W. P. Wright, Duplex Spencer and
Tennant Spencer. Second, Mr. J. T. Tig^vell, Greenford,
Middlesex.
For the E. W. King Challenge Cup, for twelve waved
varieties, distinct, there was a strong competition, eight
exhibitors staging cqllectiqn . TJie first prize went to
NATIONAL CARNATION AND PICOTEE SOCIETY.
The annual exhibition of the Southern Section of this
society was held at the Royal Horticultural Hall on
July 17. The show was a comparatively small one.
its better phase being the long-stemmed flowers sho^vn
in vases. Those sho^vn on cards, many distorted beyond
measure, failed to arouse any enthusiasm.
For a stand of twelve Carnations on cards, bizarres
and fiakes, Mr. H, R. Taylor, Cheam, was first, ha\ing
Opal, Mrs. L, Lord, Gordon Lewis and George More]
among others. Mr. J, Douglas was second, Tlicre were
three competitors.
For twelve Carnations, selfs, ]Mr. Charles Blick, Hayes,
Kent, was first, having Dafiodil, Rosy Morn, Mimosa,
Tlio Chartist, Blondcl, Booldiam Wliite, Fujiyama (red),
Ashantec (crimson) and Sirs. Eric Hambro (white). Mr.
James Douglas was second also in this class, his best
flowers being DafTodil and Mrs. G. Marshall (crimson).
Only two standJa were set up.
Mr. E. Cowdy, Loughgall, Ciounty Armagh, whose best
were Lavender George Herbert, Mary Unwin, Mark's Tey.
R. F. Felton and Mrs. H. Sykes. Second, Mr. Le\vis
Peters, St. Austell, Cornwall.
District Classes (Trade Excluded).
These were divided into two groups, the London and
Scottish classes exliibiting six bunches each ; the
Irish, Welsh, Northern Counties, W^estern. Eastern,
Jlidland and Southern Counties exhibiting nine bunches
each.
In the London class, Mr. G. M. Morewood. Windmill
Road, South Ealing, was first, having Jlaud Holmes
and Thomas Stevenson as his best. There were five
competitors.
In the Scottish class, Mr. J. A. Ginger, Forres, N.B.,
took fijst place, having superb vases of ilargaret Atlee
and Lavender George Herbert.
In the Irish class, for nine, only two competitors
faced the judges, the first prize going to Sirs. A. V, Jlac-
namara, Ennistymon- House, County Clare, whose strong
collection was made up of Jlrs. W. J. Unwin, Radiance,
Edrom Beauty, Maud Holmes and Helen Williams,
among others. Mr. E. Cowdy was second.
In the Welsh classes, filr. T. Jones led the way, his
vases of Jfargaret Atlee, Dobbie's Cream, Melba, Elfrida
Pearson and Hercules being particularly fine. Mr. L.
Webb, Welshpool, was second.
In the Northern Counties class, Mr. E. Keith was first
with an admirable lot.
In the Western classes, Mr, A. E. Usher took the lead
vntti a superb lot.
In the Eastern Counties class, BIrs. A. Hitchcock.
Tiptree, Essex, took premier place. There were ten
competitors in this class, the flowers being very good.
In the Midland Counties class only two competitors
staged, the first prize going to Mr. E. R. James, Wroxton
Abbey Gardens, Banbury, for a very fine lot.
In the Southern Counties class, for which the first
prize was a piece of plate, value three guineas, offered
by tlie Proprietors of The Garden, there were six com-
petitors, the first prize being awarded to an admirable
tot from Miss Scrivens, Millfield, Bexhill-on-Sea, whose
collection of nine comprised Thomas Stevenson,
Hercules, New Marquis, King Manoel, King "VMiite, Edith
Taylor, Audrey Crier, Maud Holmes and Barbara. Second.
Mr. T. Stevenson, gardener to E. G. Mocatta, Esq.,
Addlestone, who also staged a very fine collection.
In the Burpee Cup class, for a display of waved Sweet
Peas, to be arranged on a table space 8 feet by 3 feet,
only one competitor, Mr. T. Stevenson, gardener to E. G.
Mocatta, Esq., Woburn Place, came to the front, the exhibit,
in our opinion, being rather crowded. The best vase was
Thomas Stevenson. New Marquis, King Manoel, Marjorie
Linzee, Prince George and Lavender George Herbert
were also good.
For the Horace Wright Challenge Cup, twelve bunches,
distinct, five competitors staged collections, the premier
award going to Mr. W. H. Holloway, Port Hill, Shrewsbury,
whose dozen was made up of Thomas Stevenson, May
Campbell, Elsie Herbert, Ivanhoe (blue), Clara Curtis,
Rosabelle, Agricola, King White, Jlark's Tey, King
ftfanoel, Herchles and Sunproof Crimson, Mr. C. R.
Jaggs, Vicarage Cottage, Hertford Heath, was second.
For the Walter Yoss Challenge Cup, for six distinct
varieties, to represent six dift'erent colour classes, five
competitors staged collections, the premier award going
to Mr, W. H. Holloway, Portyville, Port Hill, Shrewsbury'.
His set was Lavender G. Herbert, Agricola, Hercules,
Elfrida Pearson, King Manoel and Rosabelle. Sir. C. R.
Jaggs was second.
New Seedling Varieties.
Fiery Cross (vivid scarlet cerise), raised by Mr. A.
Malcolm, Duns, to be introduced by Messrs. W. Atlee
Burpee and Co., was given an award of merit and reserved
for the silver medal, 1915.
Royal Purple and Jean Ireland (pink and cream), both
from Messrs. Dobbie and Co., also received awards of merit.
These had been grown at the Society's trials, and the
awards were made by the floral committee.
Table Decorations.
In Class 36, for a table decoration 3 feet in diameter,
there were fourteen competitors, the first prize deservedly
going to an exquisitely beautiful and tasteful arrange-
ment from Mrs. A. G." Gentle, Little Gaddesden, Berk-
hamsted, who employed cream-coloured Sweet Peas in con-
junction with the lightest of grasses, and touches of bronzy
foliage and Acacia cultriformis. Second, Mrs, Alex.
Robinson, Carshalton.
In Class 37, for an epergne or stand, there were fifteen
exhibilors, Mrs. A. D. Ruff being awarded flr.st prize.
For a stand of twelve Carnation blooms on cards,
fancies, dissimilar varieties, there were three competitors,
Mr. J. Douglas being placed first. In our opinion the
stand of these from Mr. C. Bhck, Haves. Kent, who was
placed second, contained a much weightier lot of blooms.
Mr. Blick's Skirmisher was a grand flower. The same
variety in Mr. Douglas' lot was in a state of collapse
at 11 a.m. The latter's best flowers were Lord Steyne,
Edenside and Linkman. air. Blick staged excellent
Linkman, Forester, Donald McDona'd and Mrs. Leo
Hunter.
For a stand of twelve Pieotecs there were three com-
petitors. Mr. H. R. Taylor, Cheam, was first ; second,
Mr. Douglas ; third, Mi. Blick.
For twelve yellow-ground Pieotecs on cards, Mr. Douglas
had the best lot, Mr, Taylor and Mr. Blick occupyinc
second and third places respectively.
For four varieties of Carnations, selfs, three blooms of
each, in vases, there were four entrant?, Mr. J. Douglas
occupying the first place uith Basuto (crimson). Daffodil
(yellow), Bookham \Vhite,and Cardinal (scarlet). Mr. H.
Lakeman was second ^s-ith good Bookham ^VIlite and
Daffodil. Mr. C. Blick was third.
For four fancies, shown in the same way, Mr. Douglas
was again first, having Pasquin, Lord Steyne, Linkman and
A. B. Stewart. Mr. Lakeman was second wth a capital
lot of fiowers, ha\ing Father O'Ehmn, Pasquin, Linkman
and Lord Steyn. Mr, C. Blick was third with Cyclops,
Skirmisher, Meduso and Linkman.
For four white-ground fancies, in vases, Btr. Douglas
was first with a good lot, of which Henry Brett, Minnie,
I\Irs. P. D. Owen and Othello were prominent. Mr. C.
Blick. who was second, had Herbert Newman, The Nizam,
The Bride and Lass of GowTie.
In the yellow-ground Picotee class, four varieties, three
blooms of each, in vases, Mr. J. Douglas was. again in the
leading place.
For nine distinct \arieties, selfs, fancies and yellow-
ground Picotees, three blooms of each. Mr. J. Douglas was
in the first place vitli a moderately stronc lot, his best
being Czar. Bookham Wiite, Pasquin, Edenside and
Elizabeth Shiffner. Mr. C. Blick was second with excel-
lent examples of Daffodil, Forester and Linkman.
In the white-flowered class, one variety only, Sir. W'. H.
Baton, Moseley, was first \vitli Bookham Wliite.
In the dark red or maroon selfs Jliss Shiffner was first
with Mrs. G. Marshall (crimson).
In that for yellow selfs. three blooms, one varietv.
Mr. R. Morton, Woodside Park, was first mth excellent
Daffodil, this variety being favoured by seven out of
nine competitors.
In the scarlet self class Mr. G. D. Ford was first in a
collection of six with Fujiyama.
For three terra-cotta selfs, three out of four cxliibitors
had EUzabeth Shiffner, Miss Shiffner. Lewes, being first.
For six distinct varieties, selfs, fancies and yellow-
ground Picotees, Jlr. W. H. Paton. Moseley, was "a good
first, ha\ing Lord Steyne. John Knox (maroon), Margaret
Lennox. Edenside. Rosy Morn and John Ruskin. There
were four competitors, Jlr. J. Fairlie, Acton, W., coming
second ^vith a nice lot of flowers.
For nine blooms, buff or terra-cotta selfs. one variety
only, Miss Shiffner was first with Elizabeth ShifTncr ;
three of four exliibitors showing this excellent variety.
Mr. J. Douglas was the only exhibitor in the class for
other selfs, showing Purple Emperor and taking first prize.
This exhibitor was also in the premier position in the
classes for nine wliite, crimson, yellow and scarlet selfs,
ha\ing Bookham White, Sirs. G. Marshall, Daffodil and
Fujiyama respectively.
Good non-competitive exhibits of Carnations were
staged by Mr. Douglas, Mr. St. John, Mr. D. B. Payne.
Mr. Lakeman, Thornton Heath ; and Messrs. Phillips
and Taylor, Bracknell.
ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.
Herbaceous flowers were admirably -jhown at the fort-
nightly meeting of the above society on July 14. Phloxes
and Gladioli were conspicuous among hardy flowers,
while Roses. Sweet Peas and border Carnations were
alike well represented. Some excellent fruit, both indoor
and from the open, was also on \iew ; but the show
was not well attended, wiiich, however, is not unusual
during the month of July.
Fruit and Vegetable Coduttee.
Present : J. Cheal, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs, J.
Willard, A. Grubb, A. Bullock, G. Keif. W. Pope. H. J.
Wright. O. Thomas, C. G. A. Ni\ and J. Da\is.
A collection of bush and pot fruit shown by Maldwin
Drummond, Esq., Cadland Park, Southampton"(gardener.
Mr. L, Smith), calls for special mention. In addition
to Apples, Pears and Plums on well-cropped trees, there
were a great many dishes of Strawhcrries, Currants (red,
black and whiter. Raspberries. Cherries, Peaches, Melons,
Figs, Nectarines and Gooseberries : wiiile the Grapes
Cannon Hall Muscat and Black Hamburgh were also
shown. Silver-gilt Banlcsian medal.
A collection of twelve dishes of liardy fruits was shown
by Eric Hambro, Eso.. Pickliurst Mead, Hayes, Kent
(gardener. Mr. Claud Davis). The best dishes included
Currants Black Champion, Wiile Dutch and Red Dutch,
Strawberries Laxton's Latest of All and Eleanor, Goose-
berries Speedwell and Gage Berry, and Plum Golden
Drop. Bronze Knightian medal.
Apricots formed the chief feature of a collection of
frxiits in pots shown by Messrs, William Paul and Son,
Limited, Walt ham Cross. Of the Apricots showai we
noticed the varieties Moor Park. Hcmskirk, Peach,
Domayan and Blenheim. Moor Park is prol)ably the
best of all. and it is intercstinc to note that it has been
in cultivation for centuries. Silver Knightian medal.
GARDEN.
-^^=**^
^^^p. ^
No. 2228.— Vol. LXXVIII.
August i, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Our Garden Planning Competition. — We would raised from seed
remind all those who are entering our competition , some may think
for planning and planting the little garden that the rock garden
completed designs must be sent in not later than
September i. All competitors should carefully
read the rules published in our issue dated May r6,
and also the replies to queries in our issue for
June 20. The rules can be had by sending lid. in
stamps to the Editor. All envelopes
•containing letters relating to the com-
petition should be plainly marked
" Planning Competition."
Rose Gustave Regis.— For grow-
ing as a large bush or rather low
pillar there are few better Roses than
this Hybrid Tea. It has a vigorous
habit, and flowers freely when once
established. The bush shown in the
illustration is over five feet high, and
has been in its present position three
summers. The long, beautifully
shaped buds are nankeen yellow in
colour, this fading to cream as the
blooms expand, when they are only
semi-double. It is a splendid garden
Rose, and one of the best varieties
for button-holes. It was raised by
M. Pemet-Ducher, and put into com-
merce in 1890.
A Raspberry Fraud. — During the
last few weeks Loganberries have
been freely sold in many fruiterers'
shops for Raspberries. Although the
Loganberry is a good and useful
fruit, it is much inferior to the
Raspberry, and as the same prices
are being charged, the substitution
can only be characterised as a fraud.
Fortunately, it is not difficult to tell
one fruit from the other. In the
Loganberry there is a hard central
core, which cannot be removed
when the fruit is gathered ; but
in the Raspberry the fruit, imless
gathered for dessert or exhi-
bilion, is pulled away
from the core, and is therefore
hollow. The Loganberry is also
usually considerably larger than
the Raspberry, and those who
desire and pay for the latter should
on their guard.
A Pretty Floral Combination.— We were
attracted the other day by a group of the beautiful
scarlet dwarf Delphinium nudicaule growing
in the rockery, among which had been planted
sown in the spring Perhaps
it was rather too formal for
but no one could deny how
effective the combination looked. Both are
readily raised from seeds and are also suitable
for the border.
A Good Autumn Rock Garden Plant. — j
One of the most suitable subjects for autumn '
ROSE GUSTAVE REGIS AS A LARGE BUSH. THIS VARIETY HAS
LONG, POINTED, NANKEEN YELLOW BUDS AND IS IDEAL
FOR BUTTON-HOLES.
be fully
effect is Silene Schafta, a little alpine plant that
might be grown in almost any garden where such
flowers are prized, yet is so often absent. Trailing
over rocks or growing in crevices, it is remarkably
pretty with its bright pink flowers (which are
borne in great numbers) from the end of July and
the white Butterfly Viola (Viola'"'<^-Papilio alba) : onwards. It is easily raised from seeds, and
soon makes good plants ; or it may be readily
increased from cuttings or by division.
Shirley Poppies with Blue Tints.— Through
the courtesy of Messrs. James Carter and Co.
who sent out the seeds last spring with the reser-
vation that they did not accept any responsibility
for the raiser's description, we have been growing
some of Mr. Luther Burbank's " blue " Shirley
Poppies. Although the colour of these
is far removed from that of the
Gentian or the clouds of a summer
sky, there is undoubtedly some sugges-
tion of blue. The best we have had
has been a sort of smoke blue colour
which is not particularly pleasing.
Public Rose Gardens in America.
Public Rose gardens, we learn from
the Florists' Exchange, are being
planned and planted in many places
in the United States of America, and
our contemporary puts forward a
plea on behalf of the Roses for
generous treatment. At Elizabeth
Park, Hartford, Connecticut, where
the first of the public Rose gardens
was formed in that country, they have
an excellent plan for determining the
value of new varieties. Before a
novelty is planted in quantity in the
Rose garden proper it has to undergo
a test in a garden specially reserved
for the purpose. We hope the day
is not far distant when novelties in
this country will have to undergo
some test of their capabilities before
receiving awards from the National
Rose Society.
The Wig or Smoke Tree.— At the
present time, and for some weeks
to come, one of the most striking of
hardy shrubs in gardens will be Rhus
Cotinus, the Vcr'cr.ian Sumach, or the
Wig or Smoke Tree, so called on
account of its feathery filaments.
These small, thread-like filaments are
really flower-stalks, a good proportion
of which, however, have never home a
flower, but are clothed mth numerous
silky hairs that give the entire
panicle the curious fluffy appearance
that is so characteristic. The shrub attains a
height of from 6 feet to 8 feet, with a sturdy habit.
It is a native of Southern Europe and the Orient,
whence it was no doubt introduced into this country
about two hundred and sixty years ago. In the
autumn the foliage changes to quite a brilliant
».oloiir.
386
THE GARDEN.
[August i, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed bv correspondents.)
whole planting scheme this season, albeit there j the amount of experience possessed in exhibition
are excellent beds of Fuchsias and also of Begonias matters generally — could allow the suggestions
and scarlet Zonal Pelargoniums, with such things quoted to be printed in their schedule, the spirit
White Rose Ointment Pot. — I now have
pleasure in sending a photograph of the ointment
pot referred to on page 374 of last week's issue.
It is placed on the trivet or " treft," resting on
the logs placed on the " dogs " or " brand irons "
as in actual use in olden times, and still occasionally
found in remote farmhouses. — Anne Amateur.
Mowing Lawns Without a Grass-box.— R« " Note
of the Week" for July 11. This is an operation
that should be done with discretion. On lawns
that are chiefly grass there is much to be said
in favour of it, but how often we see lav\'ns that are
nearly all weeds, chiefly the common Daisy.
To mow such lawns without a box would be a
great mistake, for although the Daisies may be
as standard silver-leaved Veronicas, grey-leaved
Eucalyptus, pink and rose Clarkias and Grevilleas
to stand above the dwarfer subjects. It will
be worth while keeping a note of the idea of using
Salvias and Heliotropes in combination for another
season, for a bed in the centre of a grass plot
thus planted will produce a fine effect for a long
period, and is a break-away from the orthodox Zonal
Pelargoniums and Calceolarias. — Heather Bell.
of which, I venture to think, would be calculated,
to say the least, to be misleading, especially to
beginners. The majority of your readers will,
I feel sure, agree with your correspondent that
the value of a decorated table lies in the grace
and charm created by its light effect as a whole,
so that those around the board mav " see through "
without difficulty. In regard to the question
raised as to the suitability of Sweet Peas and
in flower at the time of cutting, many of them have
sufficient nutriment left in them to ripen seeds ', with a distinct light centre
as they lie on the ground, and
would thereby make a weedy la'wn
much worse. — F. G. P.
Dianthus Atkinsonii. — In your
issue of July 11, page 353, Mr. S.
Amott, in his notes on Dianthus,
speaks of D. Atkinsonii as a double
rose pink. Surely what is generally
known as D. Atkinsonii has single
flowers of a vivid crimson-scarlet,
one of the most gorgeous of
coloured flowers. It is quite one
of the best, and so free that
it will often flower itself to
death. It is a good plan to pre-
vent one or two plants from
flowering, although, if cut down
as soon as the blooms are over,
enough good growths are generally
produced. — F. G. Preston, Botanic
Garden, Cambridge.
Erigeron Edina. — In your report
of the Holland House Show you
refer in appreciative terms to
Erigeron Edina as exhibited by
Messrs. Bunyard of Maidstone. I
am sending you an illustration
of a plant to show you what
this Erigeron is capable of in
the way of display. There are
probably only two forms of white-flowered Erigeron
grown in gardens, namely, E. Coulteri, a quick-
spreading but sparsely flowered species, and
E. neo-mexicana, a plant of little garden merit.
The newer E. Edina is a trim-growing dwarf in issue No. 2226 of The Garden, page 363,
an interesting point worthy of consideration.
In reference to the " Hints to Exhibitors " men-
tioned as being printed in the schedule of a well-
known Yorkshire horticultural society, I would,
at the outset, like to ask whether it is kno\vn
that that particular society specially favours
Roses at its shows ? Because, if so, that fact
would probably account for the bias in the direc-
tion shown in the " Hints." The reason for this
question is because I happen to have been a
member of a large Southern society in which
this favouritism has been a conspicuous feature
for some years, culminating during the current
season in " Roses only " being stipulated as
admissible in the class under notice. Otherwise,
with the knowledge at our disposal, it is difficult
to understand how a horticultural committee —
the members of which are usually chosen for
Two Beautiful Violets. — I have never met I Gypsophila elegans, perhaps I may be permitted
anyone yet who did not like Violets. There are , to mention the fact that I have myself, with
not many persons conversant with these modest I good Sweet Pea blooms, Gypsophila — using,
but delightful flowers who do not know the varie- \ however, the double form of paniculata, which
ties Princess of Wales, single, and Marie Louise, J gives better effect — and other light foliage, been
double. There are, however, two more sorts that placed in front of competitors employing flowers
should be added to every collection, namely, i of a less light character and probably costing
Colcroonan, double, resembling Princess of Wales in I considerably more. Not only the blooms, but
colour ; and Mrs. J. J. Kettle, double, light mauve, 1 the stems also of Sweet Peas possess the essential
Both kinds of blooms quality of lightness. A desirable Sweet Pea in
this connection is Mrs. Townsend,
AN ANCIENT POT USED FOR MAKING ROSE OINTMENT.
are freely borne on strong stems, those of Col-
croonan being very long. — Avon.
Lightness in Table Decorations. — Under this
heading your correspondent H. A. Elliott raises.
form, flowering over a long period with extra-
ordinary freedom. It originated five years ago
at Hopetoun Gardens, and was first offered to
the public by Messrs. Cunningham and Fraser,
Comely Bank Nurseries, Edinburgh. — T. Hay,
Greenwich Park. [The photograph sent repre-
sented a very good plant, but, unfortunately,
was not suitable for reproduction. — Ed.]
An Effective Flower-Bed. — Among the flower-
beds in Finsbury Park — which just now are in
fine condition — are some fiUed with a combmation
of dwarf Heliotropes and scarlet Salvias, with
standard Heliotropes at intervals at the sides
and along the centre. The vivid scarlet of the
free-flowering Salvias contrasts admirably with
the colour of the Heliotropes, and the delightful
fragrance of the latter completes the charm of
what, to rnv mind, is the most effective of the
the colour of which — white and
violet — is equally good on the
reverse side of the flower. Respect-
ing the use of Sweet Peas for table
decoration, there is one reservation
I would make, which is that unless
really first-class blooms are avail-
able, it is better to use a subject
such as Carnation May Day or
Enchantress, still, however, using
the lightest of foliage, together with
the Gypsophila particularised. —
B. W. Lewis.
An Unusual Rose Stock. —
Thinking it may prove of interest
to readers of The Garden, and
especially to Rose enthusiasts, I
send a brief account of my dis-
coverjf of an imusual stock having
been used for grafting a Rose
upon. I judge the stock to be a
variety of Cotoneaster, but enclose
a slip so that you may verify the
same by a brief footnote. The
shrub is now 3 feet or so in
height, rather more across, and of
a spreading habit. It is about
four or five years ago since it first
made its appearance above ground
directly in front of a William Allen Richardson
Rose, say, 15 inches from the chief stem. When
first seen we had no idea of what it might be, and as
there was no other plant just near, it was allowed
to grow. Imagine my surprise when working
around the Rose and shrub to find the latter
growing elf a lar;e root which I traced back to
the original rootstock of the Rose William
Allen Richardson. Presumably such an experi-
ment was the work of some nursery employ^,
and it has certainly answered quite well, for I
understand the said Rose has been where it now
is eleven or twelve years. Of course, the first
growths of the Cotoneaster were made at the
expense of the Rose, the vigour of which was
much impaired owing to our not being aware
of the connection between the two. The flowers
of the shrub are quite insignificant, and are just
over, but the crimson berries which follow are
rather attractive in the autumn and early winter.
Has such a case been recorded before ? — C.
Turner, Ken View Garden, Highgate. [The
Cotoneaster sent was C. Simonsii. — Ed.]
August i, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
387
New White Climbing Roses.— If Mr. H. E.
Molyiiciix will grow Mrs, M. H. Walsh (Walsh,
1913), he will not be compelled to say " Wc still
want a good white." The new-comer is absolutely
white, with rosette-like blooms, freely produced.
Its dark, shining foliage, like the bulk of the
wichuraianas, makes a good contrast to the pure
white flowers. In growth it is all that can be
desired, and especially free flowering. Again, if
Mr. Molyneux will grow Mrs. Littleton Dewhurst,
which is another sport from Dorothy Perkins
and ptire in colour, much superior to White
Dorothy, which is especially inclined to sportive-
ness this season, he will even then not have to
make this complaint. — E. M.
A Good Yellow Gladiolus. — In your issue of
April 2.1 (page 204) a correspondent deals with
the newer kinds of yellow Gladioli, but fails to
mention Schwaben, a variety raised by Piitzer of
Stuttgart, and which in Australia surpasses Glory
of Noordwijk, which is recommended in the
article referred to. Scliwaben has been exhibited
here with twelve flowers in perfect order at once.
The flowers are large and of a fine yellow, and the
growth vigorous to a quite unusual degree. This
variety was awarded a championship at Moe here
on April 17 last. Glory of Noordwijk also has been
sliown, but has attracted attention only by means
of its high price. Golden Empress, a variety
raised in Tasmania, is considered by some growers
to be equal to Glory of Noordwijk, but Schwaben
is always considered superior, though its colouring
could be purer. Niagara varies terribly in its
coloration, coming almost pink in some soils. Its
facing leaves much to be desired also, but it
t.lirows a very fair spike. — Gilbert Errey,
Victoria, A ustralia.
The Most Fragrant Rose. — I spent much
time round the new class for fragrance at the
Holland House Show, and am not at all surprised
to read the remarks of " Old Rose " as to the
strength and kind of fragrance contained in the
winning blooms of Queen of Fragrance, the variety
favoured by the judges and tlie winner of the
" Clay " Cup. To me many of the remarks made by
passers-by savoured of the unjust, because they
appeared to be quite ignorant of the conditions
required and judged the Roses staged by appear-
ance, often ignoring entirely the fragrance alto-
gether. One " expert " put his nose within
an inch or so of the flowers and compared the
fragrance to some Apples. I rejoined, " More
like sour Grapes to you." I know dozens of
people condemned the award entirely in ignorance,
and I shall not be surprised if we have to read
remarks in the Press made by such. While
agreeing that Mrs. G. Norwood is a delightful
Rose in many ways, and pleasingly sweet too,
it must be admitted that the blooms in question
were not equal to those selected, as they suffered
somewhat from age. I do not mean they were
not fresh, but not equal in any way to what this
variety was shown much earlier in the season.
I think it must be admitted that even the fragrance
of a Rose wanes as the blooms become smaller
in their season. I tested all the blooms staged
most carefully many times after the judges had
pronounced their award, and I am irrmly con-
vinced that they spared no pains to arrive at a
correct decision. I watched them closely all
the time they were engaged. Of coiurse, I shall
be told this is only a matter of opinion. That
may be so, but I want readers to understand
that the award was not made in a perfunctory
manner by the lady and gentleman appointed.
I .1111 thoroughly convinced no injustice was
done to other ex]iil>itors. — Edwin Molyneux.
Naming of Daffodils. — I have always rather
prided myself on taking some pains and care in
giving appropriate names to my Daffodil seedlings,
so that the criticisms of your Colonial correspon-
dent " A. E. G.," page 362, issue Ju'.y 18,
touch me in a very tender spot. He finds some
fault with the naming of Swashbuckler, a flower
which, I gather, he has never seen. I am sure
that were he to see it, he would at once grasp
the appropriateness of the name. Its section is,
I should say, on the border line between a Giant
Leedsii and a Giant incomparabilis ; but it
is a great, bold, aggressive - looking flower,
with enormous substance both in flower and
stem, so much so that when I exhibited it in
London a gentleman to whom I was showing it
asked me as a favour not to hit him with it !
I have no interest in it now, as the stock has
passed into the hands of my friends Messrs.
Cartwright and Goodwin ; but I remember
that Mr. Goodwin, when making the purchase,
remarked on the particular appropriateness of
the name, and I cannot help wishing that
" A. E. G." had also had a view of it ; in which
case I am sure that he would not have included
it in his list of undesirable or inappropriate names.
— F. Herbert Chapman.
The Leaf-cutting Bee among Pelargoniums.—
Looking over some scarlet Zonals recently, I was
surprised to find on many of the flower-trusses
that small portions of the petals had been removed
by clean, regular, crescent-shaped cuts. I guessed
this must be the work of the leaf-cutting bee,
although I had never before known this clever and
industrious — though destructive — insect to choose
the flowers of Pelargoniums for its labours, the
usual thing being for it to attack the foliage of
Rose bushes. However, I bade my little son keep
watch upon the plants, and, sure enough, before
long the bee appeared, alighted on a petal, cut out
a piece and flew off with it. Having learned that
this was the case, I took up the observation myself,
and found that, at regular intervals of five minutes,
the bee returned to my plants. This showed me
that its nest must be a considerable distance ofi" ;
but by the aid of binoculars I was enabled to watch
the bee to ascertain the direction of its flight.
Within three days I had traced its home and
destroyed it ; but not before some hundreds of
pieces had been deftly removed from the flowers
of my Zonals. Strange to say, although I had
Paul Crampel, Jacoby and the Ivy-leaved Mme.
Crousse growing side by side with Vesuvius
and Raspail, only the last two varieties were
attacked, from which I gather that whatever
colour is first chosen is adhered to during the whole
operation of nest-building. If any readers notice
a number of crescent-shaped cuts on their flowers
or on their Rose leaves, it will be as well to watch
for the leaf-cutting bee, for if unchecked this busy
little insect will work extraordinary mischief
among the plants. — Heather Bell.
FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
August 3. — Fiower Show at Carshalton.
August 4. — Flower Show at Abbey Park,
Leicester (two days). Scottish Horticultural
Association's Meeting.
August 7. — Perthshire Sweet Pea and Rose
Show (two days). Dundee Horticultural Associa-
tion's Meeting.
August 8. — Stirling Horticultural Association's
Outing to Callender Park, Falkirk.
THE LILY SEASON IN
SCOTLAND.
ORIENTAL and American Lilies in
L South-Western Scotland have been
I materially stimulated in their
f growth and flowering potentialities
by the advent of the recent
rains. Previously it appeared
as if they were making but little progress in the
direction of floral evolution. Perhaps the one
outstanding exception was the fair Madonna
Lily, Lilium candidum, which seems less susceptible
than many other Lilies of less attractiveness to
atmospheric influences. This is still one of the
most beautiful of all Lilies, for its flowers are
invariably richly ornamental and refined in their
fragrance.
L. longiflorum is also for the most part com-
paratively easy of culture when it is assigned
a sunny, sheltered situation and a moderately
fertile soil ; but only too often it reduces to a
minimum its splendid possibilities by the creation
of a large number of impotent miniature bulbs.
On the other hand, the great Himalayan Lily,
L. giganteum, which grows grandly at Monreith
and Lochinch Castle, though it usually generates
several offsets of a considerable size, seldom suffers
so perceptibly from this special cause. But
then it must be remembered that its offspring
sometimes take from four to five years to reach
tlicir full dimensions, while those of L. longiflorum
develop very rapidly. This is especially character-
istic of the fine variety entitled L. Harrissii when
cultivated in a warm conservatory.
In my own garden the first Oriental Lily to
flower adequately this season was L. Hansonii,
the luminous Yellow Martagon, which invariably
produces an artistic effect. This variety was
quickly followed by L. szovitzianum, "which this
year approximated to a height of 8 feet. Its
citron- coloured, pendent flowers are exceedingly
graceful. One of the loveliest contemporariee
of the Persian Lily in this sequestered region of
Scotland is L. washingtonianum, a native of
California, which, with its charming aspect and
delicately Woodbine-like aroma, may be described,
without exaggeration, as a veritable gem. Next in
order of flowering here come the Siberian davuricum
(varieties erectum and incomparabile) and the
even more richly coloured Californian Panther
Lily, L. pardalinum, of which one of the finest
and most reliable varieties is Burbankii.
L. Henryi, a distinctive Lily from Western
China, with a uniquely pendulous characteristic,
is at present developing with a gratifying vigorous-
ness ; so also are L. auratum platyphyllum
and L. virginale ; while the noblest forms of
L. speciosum, and especially L. s. KrEetzeri and
L. s. magnificum, promise to be splendidly
impressive this year. David R. Williamson.
Manse of Kirkmaiden, Wigtownshire, Scotland.
TWO LITTLE KNOWN ANNUALS.
There are a number of beautiful annuals that are
ideal subjects for the rock garden, among which
may be mentioned DowTiingia pulchella and Eucha-
ridium Breweri, the former with large Lobelia-like
flowers of rich blue with yellowish eye, and th»
latter with beautiful pink flowers, which, from an
outward appearance, one might compare with the
beautiful Shortia uniflora, although it is in no way
related. Both are natives of California, and are
among the gayest of annuals at the present time.
388
THE GARDEN.
[August i IQI4.
HARDY AMERICAN
PRIMU LAS.
PROFESSOR BAYLEV BALFOUR
classes the nineteen named American
Primulas into three sections — Farinosa,
Cuneifolia, and Nivalis, though he
does not consider this grouping final.
It will thus be observed that this
area, so rich in other hardy plants, gives us a
small number of Primulas. Some of them are of
special interest, and the greater number are
worthy of more extended cultivation. Of those
I mention, all are hardy with the exception of
P. Rusbyi, which is so nearly hardy with me
that I think it desirable to class it with the other
hardy American species I have cultivated.
Primula americana (Rydberg). — P. americaua
of Rydberg is admittedly a microform of the wide-
spread P. farinosa, and it is classed by some
botanists as P. farinosa variety genuina. It has
the leaves farinose beneath, obovate-
oblong, obtuse and crenulate or denticu-
late. It is a native of the Rocky
Mountains, and occurs in Alberta,
Colorado and Montana. It can be
cultivated tmder the same conditions as
other forms of P. farinosa, and is an
attractive little Primula.
P. davurica (Spreug.). — Pax does n..t
admit this to specific rank, and makc^
it a. sub-species of
P. farinosa. — This is mentioned in nu
accoimt of the Asiatic, but not Chincs'
or Japanese Primulas, page i8o, April ii
issue, and need not be further discussed
at present, except to state that it has
been fomid in Saskatchewan.
P. eximia (Greene). — This member of
the Nivalis section is spoken of among the
Japanese species, page 280, May 30 issue,
and reference may be made to that
article for further information. It will
suffice here to say that it is found in
the Aleutian and Pribilof Islands.
P. groenlandica (Warming). — This
is another of the microforms of P.
farinosa which are denied specific rank
by Pax. It is a native of Greenland
and Labrador, and is P. strict a of
Lange. The leaves are large for the size
of the plant, and are more or less
farinose beneath, deeply denticulated or
nearly entire, the base narrowing into
petiole. The scape is stout, and rises above
the leaves. The flowers are violet. Cultivation:
Same as P. farinosa.
P. magellanica (Lohmann). — In this we have
another of the F'arinosa section which is classed
by Pax as a variety. For garden purposes it
may be called a form of the Bird's-eye Primroses.
It is a robust form, with rhomboid-elliptic, crenate-
denticulate leaves, the sturdy scape rising above
these. The flesh-coloured or white flowers are
almost capitate or on short pedicels. The habitat
of this Primula is one of the most curious in
phytegeography. How this Northern species has
contrived to jump over the whole American
Continent, to pass the Equator, and to establish
itself in the extreme South, is a mystery as yet
unexplained by science. It is found in Fuegia and
Chile, and is plentiful in the Falkland Islands,
where, on a few of the islands where there are no
sheep, the hillsides are covered with its white
or lavender-coloured flowers, and these grow to
I J feet to 2 feet high. In former years it reached
that height in all the islands, but the species has
dwindled in size since the introduction of tlie sheep.
It is a good garden plant.
P. mistassinica (Michx.). — Another form of
P. farmosa, P. mistassinica, which is P. pusilla
(Goldie), P. tenius (Small) and P. Macalliana
(Wiegand), is a considerably smaller plant, and
only grows from i inch to 6 inches high. It has
spatulate or obovate leaves, which are generally
green on both sides, but are occasionally sparsely
farinose beneath, and denticulated or repand,
obtuse at the apex, and narrowed or cuneate
at the base. The flowers are from two to six in
the umbel, and are pink or pale purple, with or
without a yellow eye. The corolla lobes are
obcordate. It is a native of wet banks, and extends
generally from Newfoundland to the Rocky Moun-
tains. It is also found in Northern Europe.
P. Parryi (A. Gray). — ^This native of the sides
of the alpine brooks of North America comes from
out by the general experience. It is a very distinct
species of the Cuneifolia section, and came from
the Rockies of Arizona and New Mexico in 1885.
The leaves are sometimes as much as 4 inches
in length and rather more than half that in wdth.
The flower-scape rises a little above the leaves
and bears an umbel of from two to ten peculiarly
scented flowers of a crimson-purple colour, nodding
to one side, with a deep irregular ring round the
yellow throat of the corolla. The calyx is prettily
striped with %vhite meal. I cannot grow it in
the open, but it succeeds moderately well in a
cold house with the pots pltmged in and covered
over with ashes during- the winter season. It
blooms with me, although late, but does not seed.
P. integrifolia (Gumer ex Oeder). — It will,
perhaps, be better to speak of this plant as a form
of P. sibirica, of which it is a microform. As I
shall refer to P. sibirica in connection with the
Himalayan species, it is needless to deal \vith it
in detail now. It is, of course, quite distinct from
the European P. integrifolia, L.
P. suflrutescens (A. Gray). — This
sub-shrubby species, introduced in 1884
from Sierra Nevada, proves fairly hardy
with me in a sheltered, well-drained
spot in the rockery, but I find it does
better when grown as a pot plant in a
cold house. It has much the appear-
ance of a dwarf shrub with its branches
lying along the gromid. The pretty
pink flowers are borne well above the
leaves on erect stems. Partly owing to
the fact of the branches resting on the
ground, they are apt to rot off during
the winter months. This species, like
others, is best raised from seed, but can
also be increased by layering and from
cuttings. Cultivation : Light, well-
drained soil, with a fair amount of sun.
P. Warei (Stein) = P. americana
(Rydberg). John Macwatt.
Mordands. Dims.
PRIMULA RUSBYI, A LITTLE-KNOWN SPECIES WITH CRIMSON
PURPLE FLOWERS.
short
near the snowline of the Rocky Mountains, from
Colorado, through Nevada and Arizona. It was
introduced in 1875, and figured in the Botanical
Magazine of the same year. In that publication
it was said to be the handsomest Primula in cultiva-
tion with the exception of P. japonica. Having
grown this Primula in quantity, I cannot share
or support this opinion. All the same, it cannot
be denied that it is a good plant, although difficult
to cultivate in most places. I have no difiiculty
with it planted deeply in good soil in a Rose bed.
It has bright purple flowers, about an inch across,
with long scapes bearing frequently a dozen
blooms in an umbel. The leaves are, sessile or
narrowed into a broad petiole, erect, obtuse or sub-
acute, and obscurely toothed or entire. It is from
6 inches to 18 inches high. Cultivation : Good
rich, well-drained soil in half shade facingwest.
P. Rusbyi (Greene). — Unfortunately, I cannot
say that P. Rusbyi is hardy and easy to grow —
at least, it is not so with me, and this is bonie
GILLENIAS AND THEIR
CULTIVATION.
The Gillenias are graceful subjects,
known to some .\merican botanists as
the Porteranthus, in lieu of the more
acceptable name of Gillenia, to which
we are most accustomed. They are
elegant, Spitcea-like plants of much
beauty, although not of a showy nature,
and are excellent flowers for the border, the
wild garden, or the open parts of the woodlands,
where, when plentiful enough to mass in broad
array, they would make a much finer effect than
if planted dotted here and there in the woodlands.
They are, however, choice enough and good
enough for planting in the flower border. The
Gillenias arc close allies of the Spirsas, but do not
produce their flowers in the large panicles generally
borne by these valued plants. The flowers are while
or pinkish, but few are quite devoid of the tinge of
pink, wliich lends a little additional briglilness
to the flower.
As will be understood from the introductory
remarks, these Gillenias present few obstacles
to the cultivator, but they dislike a poor and dry
soi'. A moist situation is preferred, and this can
be afforded in most gardens. They rather like
some shade, so that they are valuable for shady
places — no slight recommendation in many gardens.
There are two species of Gillenia, the tirsl, (i.
I
August i, 1914-]
THE GARDEN.
389
trifoliata, the Indian's Physic or Bowman's Root
of its native land, the Northern United States
of America. It grows from 2 feet to 4 feet high,
and is the finer of the two species. It has narrower
stipules tlian the succeeding one, and is glabrous
and not pubescent, as is the latter. Tlie other,
G. stipulacea, the American Ipecacuanha,
is much the same in general appearance, but
is inferior as a garden plant because]Ji of
the fact that it has fewer and smaller flowers.
The Gillenias are increased by division in
spring or autumn, and can also be raised from
seeds. S. Arnott.
HYACINTHS, NARCISSI, AND
TULIPS FOR FORCING.
THE time lias again come round when
the preparation of forcing bulbs
must be concluded ; for,
be it said, preparatory
proceedings have been
going on for a long
time. Narcissi lifted some weeks
since for pot culture were planted
two and three years ago, and only
the best of these have been selected,
the inferior ones being replanted for
outdoor flowering and for the pro-
duction of forcing material in the
future. Commonly called Dutch
bulbs, as is well known, undergo
similar preparatory culture, extend-
ing over years, the cheaper qualities
being immature and, consequently,
incapable of producing the best
flowers. I have nothing to say
against "cheap" bulbs, and there
is no good reason why they should
not be a marketable commodity,
only it should be understood that
a Daffodil, for instance, that has been
grown from an offset one year, and
then may or may not yield one
b'Oom of inferior quality, cannot
compete with a three j-ear old bulb
giving its two or three superior
blooms, and for which an enhanced
price is charged, though it is fair to
say only slightly enhanced in com-
parison to the superior results.
In Tulips the blooms are larger,
and in general better coloured
in high-class bulbs than in immature ones ;
and in Hyacinths the spike is quite another
thing from the feeble production of the third-
rate quality. The same occurs in Lily of the
Valley, Crocuses, Spirsas and other forcing
material, and no cultivation, however proper,
will have the slightest effect in improving the
flowers beyond the limits prescribed by their
previous treatment. In a bulb of mature age,
furnished with the embryonic foliage and flowers
of the succeeding season, cultivation brings out
the highest quality it is possible to attain, and
it is with these that failure, less or more obvious,
occurs when the cultivation is indifferent.
The principle the bulb-grower has to go upon,
therefore, is to endeavour by a treatment proper
to the special plant to induce it to perfect the
future flowers and foliage concealed within the
bulb to the greatest possible limit. Everything
that the future can bring forth is already there,
and cultivation is concerned solely in exhibiting
its proportions in due season.
The Best-Sized Pots.— It is a very good old
rule that the material for forcing early should
be allotted to smaller pots than that not to be
subjected to that treatment, which it will be seen
resolves itself into a question of time to make the
needed number of roots, and also to allow for
shortening the time the requirements of the plant
naturally demands. That this is by no means
an unimportant part in early forcing is proved by
Continental material, which comes to maturity
annually in advance of that produced at home,
forces more easily than the latter, and also from
the fact that forced bulbs planted in the open
retain for a time the earliness thus forced upon
them. This rule applies more to Narcissi and
Hyacinths than to Tulips, but in all it is worth
keeping in mind. I use for Hyacinths 4-inch,
and for Narcissi 5-inch, pots. For early forcing.
Tulips do well enough in 5-inch and 6-inch ones.
compost, free for the roots to penetrate, does
away to a large extent with the need of a cumbrous
drainage system. Thus for Narcissi, which I
grow in 5-inch to g-inch pots, one piece of potsherd
is as a rule all that is employed, with a layer of
rough material laid upon it. Tulips need no more,
but Hyacinths are less complacent, and for 6-inch
pots small potsherds are necessary as well as large
ones. It is clear that space unappropriated —
shall I say misappropriated ? — -by drainage pro-
vides an additional space for soil, hence a larger
root-run, and this may be further increased by
keeping the bulb well up. Bulbs of Narcissi
need very little of their bulk buried, Tulips rather
more, and Hyacinths should not be much exposed.
As already hinted. Narcissi and Tulips should
be potted with the bulbs almost touching, and
it therefore depends on the dimensions of the
bulbs individually how many shall be grown
in each pot. The earliest Hyacinths, such as
General Prissier, do well one bulb in a 4-inch
PRIMULA SUFFRUTESCENS, A NATIVE OF SIERRA >JEV.\DA. THE FLOWERS ARE PINK.
For Narcissi and Tmlips I pack as man)' bulbs
into a pot — of whatever dimensions — as it will
hold. Provided the compost is suitable and plenty
of roots as a result are produced, all that is
necessary for the grower to see to is that the
plants are well fed and never neglected.
The Soil. — It is a well-kno-wn fact that these
plants can perform all the functions of leaf and
flower production on water and on fibre ; hence
the grower who fails to provide a compost deficient
in porosity — one in which leaf-mould, for instance,
is largely proportioned, and sand, if reqtiired —
is to that extent courting disaster. So also the
compost should not be compressed to anything
like the extent of ordinary greenhouse plants,
and it is noteworthy that the very unsuspicious-
like practice of pressing a Hyacinth or Tulip
into the soil may result in its roots refusing to
enter the soil at all, and to throw the bulb upwards,
a derelict for the nonce. A nicely imagined
pot, and for 6-inch pots three in a pot is the number
I use. Darwin Tulips require slightly more
space than the early singles and doubles, and
very glorious masses of the former are provided
when 8-inch and g-inch pots are used. In these
large pots the bulbs may be arranged in two stages,
one lower than the other, and by staking out the
outermost plants large specimens suitable and,
indeed, indispensable for decoration are secured.
Space is e.xhausted, but I would like to add :
Do not attempt to grow many varieties. To
have very early flowers, rather confine yourself
to one Tulip, Proserpine ; one Hyacinth, General
Pelissier ; and one Daffodil, Golden Spur. Pot
all the Narcissi at the earliest moment, the others
when they come to hand, with relays in September
and October ; and in forcing proceed slowly till the
flower spike or stem shows that it is pushing freely,
darkness up to an advanced stage having a ver\-
favourable effect. R. P. Brotherston.
390
THE GARDEN.
[August i, 1014.
NOTES ON JAPANESE
IRISES.
IN spite of cuntinuous drought in our East
Coast district, 1914 has otherwise been a
good year for Japanese Irises, and a few
notes concerning them may be welcome
to many readers. The standard Japanese
forms, including the lovely Deep Blue
Waters, have been very fine, and several of these
are worthy of mention. Among the more notable
of the .Japanese forms I will name Zama-
no-mori, a beautiful, large, three-petalled form,
pure white sa\'e for the yellow blottlies and just
the lawn or grassland, so that it would be an easy
matter to flood the Iris plants during dry weather.
For manuring, nothing equals cow-manure.
Propagation is chiefly confined to division,
and here let me advise the reader as to the time
of operation. All division of the Japanese Irises
is best effected directly after flowering. The
clumps should be carefully lifted, and each strong
growth severed separately wath the roots attached.
These should be potted up in enriched soil
of which the body is good loam, using 4j-inch
pots. After potting, place the plants on a good
ash-bed in the open, and keep them watered
as necessary with a rosed can, damping the foUage
JAPANESE IRISES EFFECTIVELY GROUPED BY THE WATERSIDE AT WISLEY.
a suggested suffusion of light blue. Kumo-no-obi,
the lovely Band of Cloud of the Japanese, is a
lavender purple, with the yellow blotches halved
in white, a pretty three-petalled form. Very
noteworthy is Shirataki, the White Waterfall,
with its fine white petals of marvellous beauty.
With its six massive petals Shirataki is one of the
grandest Irises in existence. Kyodaisan is purple
with blue and striking orange blotches, and is
of high merit. This, again, is six-petaUed.
Choseiden is ruby crimson, a lovely big flower
with a halo of white surrounding the yellow blotches.
Kasugano, a red lilac variety, is a glorious flower,
and worthy of attention. Then there are Oyodo,
a large violet blue ; Momiji-no-taki, crimson
purple, suffused and feathered with white ; Warai-
hotei, a large lavender blue ; Osho-kun, a brilliant
Tyrian blue ; Yedo-jiman, deep blue and purple ;
and several others equally noteworthy.
For the interest of readers I add a few cultural
notes. The Irises are worthy of the utmost atten-
tion in the matter of sites for planting. The
ideal position is one where they can grow with
their heads in the sun and their toes in the water.
A deep, loamy soil, plenty of moisture, and an
open position with full exposure will be ideal. If
one possesses a garden pool or a winding streani,
it is an easy matter to make an Iris swamp or
Iris garden. If no waterway is possible, the next
best plan would be to make some sunken beds in
as well as the soil. In a short time the pots will be
full of new roots. Then the new situations or
beds can be prepared, working soot, cow-manure
and perhaps a little bone-meal into the soil.
Deep cultivation is a great asset toward ultimate
success, and if the above system is followed, the
young plants are established before tlie winter.
Now for just a few words in reference to our
own hybrid seedlings of 1914. This year we have
flowered many fine seedlings, of which the best
have been marked for propagation. A few of the
best are : Matsushima, a large six-petalled flower
of a soft sky shade, overlaid with a suffusion of
blue, and lines of blue which deepen to purple
at the edges. The usual yellow blotches are very
conspicuous, and the plant strong in growth.
Kameido, a lovely ruby red of immense size,
with a big halo of white around the golden blotches,
is very striking.
Lady Marjorie is another large six-petalled form
with a ground colour of wliite. The petals are
delicately lined and suffused with blue and purple,
and the usual characteristic yellow blotches are
most effective. The Dove, a pure white, which will
be quite worthy to rank with the standard whites
Shirataki and Zama-no-mori, is six-petalled, bul
differs from most white K.^mpferis by reason of its
carrying three petals as standards. These three are
pure white, but the fall petals have the yellow blotch.
Clacton-on-Sea. P. S. Hayvvard.
COLOURED PLATE.
PLATE 1499.
DAFFODILS IN GRASS.
IT has never been my good fortune to sic
the Daffodils in the grass in bloom at
Kew, but if anything would make me
undertake a journey there next spring
to have a look at them, it would be the
coloured plate in this week's issue. They
arc arranged just as I would plant them myself,
not in one huge homogeneous mass, whose only
charm would be its size and solid magnificence,
but in patches of irregular size and varying contour,
some of which would contain only two
or three bulbs, while the largest ones
might be made up of two or three
hundred. These groups I would place
" anyhow " in the space to be allotted
to them, taking care that there was
always a sufficieic y of unplanted grass
lietween them. Kew fulfils my ideal
in this respect also.
Thirdly, it will be noticed that all
the flowers in the foreground of the
picture are all of one kind, probablv
either Empress or Horsfieldii, and that
it is not until the trunks of the large
trees are almost reached that we have
a change, when the white effect gives
place to an expanse of yellow, it
might be of Emperor orSir Watkin, or
even princeps. This is on quite the
right lines. In striving to get the best
effects in a garden, massing is always
a very important factor, but never
more so than in planting Daffodils in
grass or in a woodland. Keeping the
different kinds by themselves does
more than anything to lend a charm
to the scene ; while, on the other
hand, planting in dabs only gives us
a sense of muddle.
These, then, are the three main
principles w-hich, I think, should
guide all Daffodil planting in grass: (i)
Plant in irregular masses of one variety ;
{2) leave grass spaces between the clumps ; (3)
keep the masses of the same variety more or less
together. I do not think I am divulging any
editorial secrets when I say that Kew and myself
are supported by no less eminent an authority
than Sir Frederick Moore of Dublin, who will have
an article on "Daffodils in Grass" in the 1914
Royal Horticultural Society's " Daffodil Year
Book," in which he records his practice and experi-
ence in the Botanic Gardens at Glasnevin, where,
some five years ago, it was my privilege to see
them in their full glory. " There can be no com-
parison as to the more pleasing effect of a bold
expanse of one variety and of a mixture."
Proceeding from the general to the practical,
I would say that nearly any variety may be
used, and that the only consideration that need
very much trouble the planter is the effect that
he wants to produce — I mean, for example, if
a succession of bloom is required, or if a gradation
in shading is thought desirable. Catalogues must
then be consulted where times of flowering and
colour descriptions arc given. Apart from all
particular requirements, the following are among
those I have found satisfactory: Lobularis, John
Bull, Stella, Horsfieldii, Emperor, Citron, princeps.
triandrus albus, Queen of Spain, I'oeticus reciu'vus,
Sir Watkin, Barrii . conspicuus and Mrs. Langtry.
m
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5
5
August i, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
391
The best time to plant is in October, or even
eurly November if the autumn has been a dry one.
In any case a sufficiency of rain sliould have fallen
to thoroughly moisten the ground. The work is
then much more expeditious, and the bulbs com-
mence to root " right away." I always use a
Barr's Bulb Planter, and from my own
experience it is what I would advise any-
one to work with who is going in for grass
planting on an extensive scale. Three men (or
women, for women can do the work very well)
are best for the job — one to make the holes, one
to place a little good soil in the bottoms, and a
third to put the bulb in and replace the round
bit of turf.
In the clumps plenty of room should be left
between the plants to allow for their natural
increase. Six or even eight or nine inches is
none too much to allow in the case of the larger
and more robust varieties.
Lastly, even if it is like taking coals to Newcastle,
I must insist upon the practice of leaving the
foliage uncut until about the middle of June,
when the foliage has gone yellow. One year's
premature cutting off will onlv weaken, but a sen nd
will probably kill the bulbs, as I know
the powers that be in a famous gar- ,-^-
den not long since found out to their
cost. Joseph Jacob.
Later explorations led to the discovery of species
intermediate in the shape of the corolla ; hence
the species are all now placed under Cobaoa. On
the ground of invalidation, Mr. H. D. House trans-
ferred all the species of Coba;a to Rosenbergia
in 1908, but this change has not been sustained.
The species of Coba3a are :
C. penduliflora (Standley ; Karsten). — " Flora
Columbia," Plate 14, under the name of Rosen-
bergia penduliflora. Native of Venezuela, but
no particulars of locality are on record. This
is not the plant cultivated under the same name.
See next species.
C. hookeriana (Standley). — The same as C.
penduliflora (Hooker), Botanical Magazine,
Plate 5757. Native of Venezuela. Raised at
Kew from seeds received from Mr. A. Ernst, and
flowered in the Palm House in December, 1868.
C. panamensis (Standley). — Native of the
mountains of Chiriqui, Panama, at elevations of
4,000 feet to 5,650 feet. This differs from C.
hookeriana in having a deep purple corolla with
very narrow lobes and narrow calyx lobes.
C. aschersoniana (Brand). — Native of Costa
Rica at elevations of 6,000 feet to 7,000 feet.
C. triflora (Donuell Smith). — Native of Guate-
mala at about 4,500 feet.
C. campanulata (Hemsley). — Native of Atacama,
Chili.
C. minor (Martens and Galeotti). — Native of
Mexico and Costa Rica, ascending to 10,000 feet.
C. Trianaei (Hemsley). — Native of Colombia ;
imperfectly known.
C. pachysepala (Standley). — Native of Guate-
mala at 9,000 feet to ro,ooo feet.
C. tomentulosa (Standley). — Native of Guate-
mala at about 8,000 feet.
C. biaurita (Standley). — Native of .South
Mexico at 4,000 feet to 5,500 feet.
C. Pringlei (Standley). — Native of North
Mexico, in the Sierra Madre, near Monterey,
Nuevo Leon. This locality is far north of that
of any other species. The flowers are very similar
in shape to those of Campanula carpatica.
C. stipularis (Bentham). — Botanical Register,
XXVII., Plate 25, 1841. Native of Mexico ;
introduced by Hartweg.
C. scandens (Cavanilles). — Botanical Magazine,
Plate 851. Native of Mexico. I find no records
THE GENUS COB/EA
A S long ago as 1880 I contri-
/% buted an article on the
/ \ genus Cobaea to The
/ % Garden (Vol. XVIL,
^ * page 352), embodying
the species then known
with their distribution, and other
particulars and descriptions of two
new species. .Altogether eight species
are there dealt with, including four
that were, or had been, in cultivation.
Two years later I had no additions to
make to the genus in the Botany of
Godman and Salvia's " Biologia
Centrali-.A.mericana." But a synopsis
of the species by Mr. A. Brand in
1907 brings the number up to eleven,
and in a revision by Mr. P. C. Stand-
ley in an American publication, re-
ceived a short time ago, the total is
increased to eighteen.
It may be useful to repeat some
of the information I gave thirty-four
years ago before giving the new.
Cobaea belongs to the same family
as Phlox and Polemonium, and it is
singular in the family in habit, climb- ANOTHER
ing by means of tendrils. The species
are all American, ranging from North
Mexico, through Central America, to Chili, Vene-
zuela and North Brazil ; but none has yet been
discovered in the West Indies. They grow naturally
in humid, subtropical forests, and some of them,
like the familiar C. scandens, reach the tops of
tall trees. Cobsea was founded on C. scandens,
which has, it will be remembered, a campanulate
corolla not unlike that of the Canterbury Bell.
In 1856 Oersted described an allied plant under
the name of ■ Rosenbergia gracilis, though it had
all the essential characters of a Cobaja, except the
corolla. This is smaller and deeply divided
into slender lobes, and of very different appearance.
VIEW OF THE JAPANESE IRISES IN THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S
AT WISLEY.
GARDENS
Corolla intermediate between typical Cobjea and
typical Rosenbergia.
C. gracilis (Hemsley). — The type of Oersted's
genus Rosenbergia. Native of Costa Rica and
Panama. Flowers small ; colour not given.
C. viorna (Standley). — Native of Guatemala
up to an altitude of 3,500 feet. Flowers greenish
yellow, about one and a-half inches long.
C. villosa (Standley). — Native of San Salvador.
C. lutea (Don) = C. macrostemma (Pavon). —
Botanical Magazine, Plate 3780. Native of
Guatemala and Costa Rica. Raised at Kew from
seeds sent from Guatemala.
of altitude beyond " near the city of Mexico,"
which is situated above 7,000 feet. The date
of the introduction of this species is usually given
as 1792, the year the'^ figure was published in the
Botanical Magazine; but in the text it is stated
that the drawing was prepared from a plant that
flowered in Woodford's nursery in 1784.
For showiness of flowers none of the foregoing
new species enumerated excels C. hookeriana
(C. penduliflora) and C. scandens, but several of
them surpass the cultivated species in grace and
elegance. W. Hotting Hemsley, LL.D.
Strawberry Hill.
392
THE GARDEN.
[August i, 1914.
AUGUST NOTES ON
VEGETABLES.
Peas. — Although it is now late to make sowings,
sliould the weather be favourable during September
and October the resultant crop would be found
extremely useful. Varieties best suited for sowing
now are The Gladstone, Ne Plus Ultra, Goldfinder,
Late Queen and Latest of All. Make a good
preparation before somng the seed, dig deeply,
and well soak the drills before sowing if the soil
is at all dry. This will hasten germination and
encourage the plants to grow quickly. Keep the
plants well watered and mulched to guard against
mildew attacks. On the first sign of this fungus
dust the plants with sulphur, or syringe them
with an antidote, such as Seride. Established
rows coming into bearing should be freely supplied
with liquid manure, or even clear water, to facili-
tate growth and the swelling of the pods. Mulch-
ing with half-decayed manure is a valuable aid
turning in ; placing a leaf over the heads keeps
them fresh and pure in colour. The growing
leaves should be cracked across the midrib in a
position sufficiently long to cover the flower,
as these leaves last fresh so much longer than a
separated leaf, which so soon withers during hot
weather.
Potatoes, in spite of the drought, are looking
remarkably well where the preparation was of
the best — deep digging and liberal manuring in
the autumn, and the soil frequently stirred between
the rows since planting. No time should be lost
in spraying the haulm for the second and last
time. Many persons do not think spraying is
of any value in preventing disease. I have noted
that those who spray regularly have less disease
than those who do not spray at all. In any case,
spraying does no harm, and it certaiiUy prolongs
the life of the haulm, to the advantage of the crop.
Strawsonite Bordeaux mixture dissolved in
clear cold water at the rate of 20lb. of
Strawsonite to loo gallons of water is sufficient
CLEMATIS GRATA GKANDlUJiNTA, A NEW AND ROBUST VARIETY FROM CHINA.
NEEDS PLENTY OF SPACE FOR ITS VIGOROUS SHOOTS.
to the prevention of mildew, which is caused
in a dry season by drought at the roots.
French Beans. — A sowing should be made in
cold frames so arranged that the lights can be
put on as the nights lengthen and become colder.
The crop from this sowing will be found extremely
useful in October. Sow thinly to enable the plants
to grow sturdily, as under such conditions they
will give double the crop of those drawn up
by overcrowding. Selected Ne Plus Ultra and
Canadian Wonder are excellent varieties. The
plants already bearing in frames should be well
supplied with water, syringed daily, and have
the Beans picked as fast as they are ready.
Cauliflowers should be in abundant supplies
of the best quality. Those plants intended for
use in September and October should have copious
supplies of liquid manure during dry weather,
and a mulching around the plants with half-
decayed manure, thus encouraging a freedom of
growth which gives pure white succulent heads.
Attention should be closely paid to plants just
for an acre. An ordinary knapsack sprayer of the
pneumatic pattern answers well for a small
patch. It is not the quantity of liquid that is
required, but it should be evenly distributed
over the under side of the leaves equally with the
upper surface. As the early varieties ripen they
should be lifted and the seed carefully stored
when dry in a cool shed, selecting tubers 20z.
in weight as a fair sample. The idea that
it is necessary to expose them sufficiently
long for the skins to become green is not
now believed in.
Tomatoes. — Outdoor plants are growing freely,
as they revel in hot weather as long as they arc
sufficiently supplied with moisture at the roots.
Restrict the growth to two stems at the most,
removing all side shoots as fast as they appear,
and keep the leading shoots neatly tied to supports
of some kind. Plants carrying full crops of fruit
should have a mulching of half-decayed manure
and be liberally supplied with liquid mamire
or a sprinkling of superphosphate of lime on the
surface, afterwards watering it in. The plants
under glass should have similar attention in the
matter of pruning off surplus shoots and shortenitig
back the leaves where they are too plentiful for
the fruit to obtain sun to aid ripening. Indoor
plants should not be too freely fed with strong
stimulants, as they are more liable to attacks
of disease than outdoor plants during hot, dry
weather. The first signs of disease in the leaves
necessitates prompt measures being taken to
arrest its progress, cutting off those affected
at once and dusting the plant with flowers of
sulpliur.
Turnips. — Continue to sow Snowball and
.All the Year Round, first watering the drills to
expedite germination of the seed. Directly the
plants appear above the soil, dust with wood-
ashes and soot. Water frequently to encourage
quick growth and to ward off Turnip fly
attacks, and keep the soil between the rows
well stirred.
Brussels Sprouts well repay any extra attention
in watering and mulching during dry weather, as,
the taller the plants grow, the greater will be
the crop of sprouts later on. The reason so
many persons fail to grow this estimable
winter vegetable well is because they defer
sowing and planting too long, the consequence
being the plants have not the opportunity
to attain even a reasonable height. If tall-
growing sorts like Matchless and Exhibition
grow 4 feet high, all the better. Any plants that
do not appear vigorous should have assistance
in the shape of a pinch of nitrate of soda
sprinkled around the plant. This stimulant will
quickly give a fillip to growth.
Carrots. — Now is the time to make preparation
for an early winter supply of succulent roots
of the Horn type. Sow in rows in frames that
have been used for Potatoes or Marrows, the soil
for those crops being of the right kind for Carrots.
Shade until the plants arc showing through the
soil ; then remove the lights daily, encouraging
a stocky growth. Replace them as the nights
become cooler.
Swanmorc. E. .Molvnei-.x.
A NEW CHINESE CLEMATIS.
Clematis grata graxdidextata is a new variety
introduced from China by Mr. E. H. Wilson,
who describes it as " a mountain plant abundant
in the thickets, margins of woods and copses
throughout Central and Western China." The
species C. grata is a Himalayan climber allied
to our native Traveller's Joy, C. Vitalba. The
subject of this note is readily distinguished from
the type by its larger and coarsely toothed leaflets.
The leaves are pinnate, comprising five leaflets.
The flowers are white, about an inch across, and,
as can be readily seen in the illustration, they
are terminal and axillary, forming a pleasing
and attractive spray. The flowering season is
the end of May and the first half of Tunc. In
common with some other Clematises, the flowers are
followed by attractive silvery seed-vessels. C. g.
grandidentata is very vigorous in growth, quite
as luxuriant as, if not more so than, C. montana,
which has long been a favourite in gardens. Suit-
able positions for planting are where it can ramble
over and clothe arbours, summer-houses and out-
buildings, or climb up and entangle at will trees
and tall shrubs. Seeds, cuttings and layering form
ready means of propagation. A. O.
August i, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
393
GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.
HOW TO GROW CYCLAMEN.
THE Cyclamen is a very useful plant for
the amateur to grow. It does not
require a high temperature ; it does
not need a large, expensively built
house ; and, when in bloom, the flowers
remain fresh for a long time, and as
bud follows bud in development, the flowering
season is a long one. One year old plants are
I
CYCLAMEN SEEDLINGS AT VARIOUS STAGES
OF GROWTH. SEE TEXT FOR DETAILS.
valuable for flowering, and corms several years
old are also valuable, so that it is not difficult to
keep up a good succession when once a stock is
raised.
Sowing Seeds. — At the end of July and in August
seeds may be sown in shallow pans filled with
good loam and leaf-soil in equal proportions.
Some coarse sand must be added and, if procurable,
a small quantity of old mortar rubble. Drain the
pan with clean crocks and place a few half-decayed
leaves on them before putting in the compost,
which should be gently finned and made smooth
on the surface. Water it through a rosed watering-
can, and sow the seeds an inch apart an hour
afterwards. Cover them quite half an inch deep
with the finer part of the compost, and place the
pans in a cold frame or on a stage or shelf in a
cool part of the greenhouse. The seeds do not
germinate very quickly nor evenly, so that the
cultivator must have patience. In the meantime
he must keep the soil in the pans in an even state
of moisture, and this can be ensured by immersing
the pan in a vessel of water and holding it there
until the water has come to the surface ; then
gently lift out the pan. Owing to the irregularity
of the germination of the seeds, the most forward
seedlings will be ready for transplanting before
the later ones, and they should be lifted from the
pans carefully so as to avoid disturbing the
latter.
Transplanting the Seedlings. — They must
l)e transferred to other pans and be allowed a
distance of 2 inches from seedling to seedling.
No. I shows the seedling breaking through the
soil ; No. 2, the next stage of development ; and
No. 3, the stage of growth when it is advisable
to do the first transplanting.
The First Potting. — When the young plants
are as far advanced as shown at No. 4, they
must be placed in small pots, small 6o's — those
3 inches across — being the most suitable size.
The Young Plant is potted, as shown at No. 5,
in good compost on a rougher one of similar
quality ; No. 6, the pot being drained with a few
crocks, well placed. At the second repotting
the corms will be forming freely, and the dark
line in No. 7 shows how deep the corm must be
buried. The crowni of a Cyclamen corm increases
rapidly when in a healthy condition, and if any of
the central portion is buried by soil, owing to the
cup-like formation, which holds moisture, some
of the young growths would perish if constantly
surrounded by too moist soil. Moisture resulting
from watering is only harmless when the crown
is above the soil-level.
The Final Potting. — A seedling Cyclamen
may be flowered in a 5-inch or a 6§-inch pot.
The latter must be clean, and the compost, though
rougher, similar in quality to that used at previous
repottings. Old corms need only have one potting.
If they are just started, surrounded by sifted leaf-
soil, in beds or boxes, the one potting will suffice.
Of course, as old corms vary in size, pots must
be used accordingly. .\ corm measuring 3 inches
across requires a pot 6J inches in diameter. As
old corms do not possess as many roots as young
plants that have been potted for some months,
very careful watering is needed. The same care
as is given to the seedlings will be correct for the
newly potted old corms. No. 8 shows a plant
finally potted ; and No, 9, young plants in a frame
on a bed of ashes prior to taking them to a stage
in the greenhouse. If the structure is a very
dry one as regards atmospheric moisture, place
slates on the stage and ashes on them for the
accommodation of the Cyclamen. If the interior
of the house is naturally moist, put the pots
on the bare stage. There should be medium
atmospheric moisture and free ventilation as
required ; then very fine flowering plants will
result, G. G,
STARVING PLANTS IN SMALL POTS.
The amateur cultivator is often prevented from
repotting certain plants on a given date. Their
condition a few weeks afterwards does not impress
him very much, because they all look to be in
the same state ; but if a few have been repotted
or planted out, then the difference is marked
indeed. 1 lately saw several hundred Cucumber
plants that had been planted in borders a week
previously. One, however, had been retained
in the pot. Those planted out were 20 inches
high and branching out freely. The pot plant
from the same batch was about ten inches high
and had very short side shoots. Retaining
plants in their pots a week or a fortnight longer
than they should be means a big loss of valuable
time, as well as poorer specimens, because if the
plants receive a check, they rarely afterwards
recover sufficiently to make satisfactory plants.
In another case some Perpetual-flowering
Carnations were left in small pots. Others from
the same batch were duly repotted. Result :
The repotted plants at the end of a fortnight
were as large again as the unpotted ones. The
former will be strong flowering plants this autumn,
while the others will not be as good next spring —
loss of time and flowers too. Many greenhouses
would be much brighter if the plants were more
systematically repotted as required. Fewer plants
would be needed to fill the stages, and the quality
of the plants would be raised. Shamrock.
HOW TO DRY HERBS.
Herbs are of much value if properly treated,
but they are rarely well cultivated and cared for
in our gardens. In this brief note, however,
I do not intend to deal with the culture, but
with their treatment during the autumn and
winter months, .^11 herbs that are cut and stored
must be harvested while the plants are in full
flower. It is at this stage that the plants are
at their full strength. To retain that strength,
careful harvesting is necessary. The tops must
be cut off, but not immediately tied in bundles.
Adequate drying is essential first, and this is
secured by spreading out the herbs on a strip
of netting in an airy shed. The air can pass
freely through the stems and leaves, and if spread
out thinly in this fashion, turning is not necessary.
When the stems and leaves are sufficiently dried,
tie them loosely in small bundles and suspend
them from the roof or any convenient projection
in an airy, cool shed. From the time that the
tops are harvested till their use they must not
be openly exposed to any strong sunshine.
The Herb Plants. — Having secured the harvest
of leaf and flower, the cultivator must turn
Ills attention to the plants themselves. In
the case of some of the old and weakly clumps,
dig out the centres, removing roots, stems and
soil bodily ; then with a good rich compost fill
up the hole made. g B
A CYCLAMEN PLANT IN ITS FLOWERING
POT, AND YOUNG PLANTS STOOD ON
ASHES IN A COOL FRAME.
394
THE GARDEN.
[August i, IQ14.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
Late Vineries m which the Grapes are swelling
freely shuuld be ventilated with great care,
especially houses in which Lady Downe's Seedling
is grown. When this Grape reaches the stoning
stage, the ventilators ought to be left open durmg
the night, or many of the best berries are almost
sure to become scalded. Ventilate freely during
the day, opening the ventilators in front^ of the
structure as early as the weather will permit.
Regulate and stop lateral growths before they
become hard and overcrowded. This will do much
to produce a free circulation of air among the
fruit and foliage. Well-drained borders should
receive a thorough soaking of liquid manure,
but never of suiBcient strength to injure the
young roots.
Plants Under Glass.
Begonia Gloire de Lorraine. — The earliest
batch of these winter-flowering plants should now
be ready for their final potting, and the soil for
this purpose may be composed of turfy loam
and leaf-soil in equal parts, with a good
sprinkling of rough silver sand. Pot moderately
firmly and shade from strong sun. Hanging baskets
can also be made up now, and these will produce
a very pleasing effect during the winter. Do
not overcrowd the plants, and apply the syringe
frequently to keep insect pests in check.
Schizanthuses. — To produce good plants for
spring flowering, the seeds should be sown about
the middle of August. Sow thinly in pans of fine
light soil and place in a cold pit until the young
plants are well through the surface, after which the
pans should be raised quite near the roof glass
in order to keep the plants stocky. Prick off into
boxes as soon as large enough, and again into 3-inch
pots later in the season. In these they may
remain the winter, and the final potting can take
place early in spring.
Tlie Flower Garden.
Climbing Roses. — Many of these are in flower
li'iw, and the worthless shoots from the base of
tlie flower-trusses should be carefully removed,
otherwise the flowers are not seen to advantage.
Vuuug shoots from the base of the plants may
he tied in, but nothing more than what is required
to furnish the trellis next season. When the
flowering season is over, as many old stems should
be removed as possible, in order to make room
for young growth which will produce next season's
crop of flowers.
Violets. — These plants have made good growth
during the last few weeks. All side shoots should
be removed and the Dutch hoe frequently used
among them. Syringe freely and dust the plants
with soot as the best means of keeping red spider
in check.
Violas. — As soon as these have finished flowering
they should be cut hard back, in order to produce
cuttings for next year's supply of plants. When
about two inches long, these young shoots may
be carefully removed from the old stools and
planted in a cold frame or in some sheltered spot
where protection can be afforded during very
frosty weather.
Summer Bedding Plants. — Many are at their
best now, and will rpcpiire regulating to keep
them within bounds. Pelargoniums may be the
first to receive attention, and this should be done
with a view to securing some cuttings for next
season's display. If only one of the hardest shoots
can be spared from each plant, this will be sufficient
for a start. When the cuttings have been pre-
pared, they should be inserted in small pots of
sandy soil and placed on a bed of ashes in the
*>pen until the autumn, when they may be re-
moved to some slightly heated pit and within
18 inches of the roof glass, there to remain for the
winter. If small pots are available, the best
method is to place one cutting in each pot, where
they may remain until the spring, when they
should be potted into 5-inch pots. Heliotropes,
Fuchsias, Coleuses, Iresines and Lobelias may
be propagated at a later date and placed in a
close, cool pit.
Tlie Rock Garden.
Hardy Cyclamen. — .Mo>t ..t these may be sown
now in pans of sifted soil, placing them in a cool
pit, w'here they should be protected from strong
sun. When large enoiigh to handle, they may-
be transplanted into boxes, allowing 2 inches
between the plants. Most Cyclamen are well
adapted for the rock garden', enjoying warm,
sheltered nooks with partial shade and shelter
from cutting wind. Good drainage is necessary,
for, although they enjoy plenty of moisture at
the roots, they will not thrive in stagnant
places.
Campanulas. — Many varieties of these are suit-
alile for the rockery, and may be increased by
division after flowering or by seeds, which can
be sown in the spring. The alpine species have
obvious advantages for all kinds of rock gardens,
being, as a rule, easy to cultivate.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Strawberries. — No time should be lost in pre-
paring the ground for new plantations of Straw-
berries. That which has been occupied by early
Peas or Potatoes will suit them well, but to obtain
the best results the ground should be trenched
to the depth of 2 feet and a good dressing of
decayed manure given. When the ground has
been allowed time to settle, the surface ought
to be carefully broken up, in order to destroy the
numerous small weeds which are certain to appear.
W^hen the young plants are well rooted, they
should be carefully planted and the soil about the
roots made firm as planting proceeds. The
space between the rows must depend to a certain
extent on the varieties selected, but for such
varieties as Royal Sovereigit 30 inches between
the rows is not too much. Other good varieties
should include Countess, Dr. Hogg, British Queen.
Givon's Late Prolific, Laxton's Latest and Waterloo.
The Kitchen Garden.
Seal(ale. — This crop is growmg freely, and
may receive immediate attention to the removal
of side shoots, which, if left, will reduce the size
of what should be a strong single crown. After
this has been accomplished, the ground can be
carefully hoed and a dusting of soot given.
Lettuce. — Make frequent small sowings of
Lettuce from now to the end of August, and
transplant part of the seedlings for succession.
Dickson's Monument, a new Cabbage Lettuce
of recent introduction, is well worth a trial.
JIammoth White Cos is also good for this sowing.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. Jqhn Di'n'n'.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Celery Fly. — .At this season the Celery fly
is often very troublesome, and means should be
taken to prevent it spreading. For this purpose
frequent dustings of soot applied on fine mornings
are usually effective. This, however, must not
be overdone, otherwise more harm than good
wi'l result. . Where leaves are badly affected, they
had better be collected and burnt.
Onions. — The preparation of the ground for
the sowing of autumn Onions should be attended
to without delay. If the ground has been pre-
viously manured for an earlier crop, all that
will be required is to ha^'e the soil deeply dug
and left in a rough state until the time for sowing,
which should commence in about a fortnight.
.Meantime collect some wood-ashes and soot,
to be applied to the surface when breaking down
the soil for the seed-bed.
The Flower Garden.
Herbaceous Borders. — By this time many of
the earlier-flowering subjects will have passed
out of bloom. The faded flowers and stalks
should be removed ; indeed, the borders will
require almost daily attention now. Later-
flowering plants will require good supports against
wind and heavy rainstorms, which sometimes
play such havoc at this season.
Dahlias. — These will now be growing freely,
and as the shoots are so easily broken off by
wind, they must be supported by looping them
up to the central stake. This is a much safer
plan than placing a string all round them. Should,
however, extr.i large bloiims be wanted, the
shoots must, of course, be thinned out and artificial
feeding be given occasionally.
Antirrhinums. — These showy bedding plants,
which are now giving such a wealth of bloom,
should have the old flowering shoots removed,
when the laterals will thr.iw up and give a second
crop of bloom till well on in the autumn. This
cutting away of the faded flower-spikes is most
important, as, if allowed to run to seed, the blooming
period is verj- much curtailed.
Planting Daffodils.— The bulbs that were
lifted earlier in the season will now be quite ready
for planting — that is, if the ground is available.
There is nothing gained by keeping them longer
in a dry state. Any ordinarv- garden soil will
suit them, but on no account use fresh manure.
Rock Garden.
Helianthemums. — These are now giving a
glorious display in the rockery, and some bold
clumps placed at intervals on the higher parts
of the rockery here are very effective indeed.
1 find they can be easily propagated by cuttings
put in any time after this date. The earlier they
are put in, the better plants will they make by the
autumn. Insert the cuttings in a cold frame
and shade from bright sunshine, and the earliest
of them will be ready for planting out permanently
in the autumn.
Lithospermum prostratum. — This is another
rock plant that can be propagated by cuttings
at this season. I find, however, it does not root
so readily as the Sun Rose ; but if ever a plant
was worth tending carefully, then it is this Heavenly
Blue, so aptly named. Insert the cuttings in
pans, and place them in a cool house or frame
where they will have a certain amount of shade
for a time.
Plants Under Glass.
Hydrangea hortensis. — Cuttings of this useful
greenhouse plant may still be rooted, but at this
date it would be advisable to place these in a
warm pit, so as to hasten growth before the winter.
Those rooted earlier should be potted on and
placed in frames, and, when sufficiently hardened,
the lights may be entirely removed.
Arum Lilies. — Where these have been ripened
in pots, they should now be shaken (Uit and
repotted. Place them in their flowering pots
at once, using a fairly rich compost. Those that
were planted out in trenches should not be potted
up until they have made a fair amount of young
growth.
Calceolarias. — Prick out the seedlings when
large enough to handle, for, as already pointed
out, they must on no account be allowed to
become drawn. After being pricked out, place
them again in a cold frame and shade during
bright sunshine. A sharp look-out must be
kept for green fly, which usually makes its appear-
ance during hot weather, for, if once allowed to
get a hold, the young plants will be crippled at
the very outset.
Humea elegans. — The earliest-sown batch should
now be ready for pricking out. Place the seedlings
singly in small pots and stand them in a cool
house where they will get abundance of light and
air. Water very sparingly.
Fruits Under Glass.
Late Muscat Grapes. — Should the weather
be inclined to be cold and damp, a little warmth
ought to be mamtained in the pipes, with a free
circulation of air day and night. Examine the
berries from time to time to see they are not
splitting, which is usually caused from too close an
atmosphere, and, if this is observed, reduce the
moisture in the house and ventilate freely. Draw
aside some of the foliage to expose the bunches
to the sun, as every means should be taken to
have the Grapes well coloured by the middle of
Sei>triubi r.
Strawberries. — The earliest runners should
now be potted into their fruiting pots and stood
cm a hard surface where they will be exposed
to the sun. Water carefully at first, and keep
runners cut off as they appear.
John Highcate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hof'ctouii Gardens, South Qiteens/erry, N.B.
August i, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
395
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
Emry department of liorticuttnre is represented in THE
Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions
relating to matters upon which they wish expert advice.
The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
but he wilt not be responsible for their sale return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions. j • j ,i i.^.^
As regards photographs, if payment he desired, the Jiditor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly slated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyriglit will be treated with.
The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in THE Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.
Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C.
ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS. — The Editor endeavours
0 make The Garden helpful to all readers ivho desire
assistance, no tnatter what the branch of gardening may be,
and with that object makes a spe-cial feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the EDITOR of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, I^ondon, W.C. The name and aMress
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
slwots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher.
FLOWER GARDEN.
SUNFLOWER TO NAME {R. ,S.).— The Sunflower
referred to is probably Harpalium rigidum, which will
grow practically anywhere. Epsom salts is not a cure for
slugs.
SWEET WILLIAMS DISEASED (W. E. M.).— The
plants sent were too far gone to permit us to say anything
about them with certainty. Perhaps you could send
others less far advanced in disease than these.
RUST ON VIOLAS (Fioia).— The fungus on the Viola
is called Puccinia Algra. Plants once attacked arc
generally useless, and are best rooted out. The neighbouring
plants may be protected by spraying them with a rose
red solution of potassium permanganate.
SWEET PEAS FAILING {W. B. B.).— The material
sent is insufficient to enable us to form any accurate
idea of the disease from which the Sweet Peas are suffering.
The best thing to do, we think, will be to water them
with a solution of half an ounce of potassium sulphate
to the gallon of water.
A DISEASED PHLOX (Peach).— The Phlox plants
are attacked by the stem eelworm. It is not easy, and
probably not possible, to cure plants when once attacked
by this pest, and we think you would be well advised
to propagate only from quite healthy plants and destroy
the others, treating the ground they occupy with sulphate
of potash at the rate of^2oz, to the square yard. The
Peach is attacked by silver-leaf, and we recommend you
to root it out and plant another in its place.
PiEONIES REVERTING (R. G.).—We do not recall
any instance of Peeonies reverting to the typical species,
though there is not the least reason why these, aa well
as other plants, should not be given to '* sport," i.e.,
produce colour variations quite distinct from the normal,
though instances of such are rare. What you refer to,
if it has really happened, may be of this kind, or in the
nature of deterioration, which we could only say with
knowledge of the individual examples. If the whole of
the flowers on any plant appear to have gone from pink
to magenta, we should be inclined to regard it as due to
lack of cultivation ; hence deterioration. If, on the
other hand, a solitary flower only in a clump had changed,
we should look upon it as a " sport," to prove which it
would be necessary to mark the branch and later lift
the clump, divide and single it out, and replant to prove.
It would probably take three years to again reach a good
flowering stage. We make no charge for answering
queries relating to gardening affairs, and find pleasure
in assisting our readers so far as we can.
PROPAGATING GAILLARDIAS (C. W. 0. S.).—
Apart from seeds, these plants may be increased by
cuttings and root cuttings, the latter only practical during
the winter months. Cuttings of young shoots may be
inserted any time when procurable during the coming
weeks, and you had better proceed by pruning back
all flowering shoots to their bases and await the coming
of fresh non-flowering shoots, detaching these when
3 inches long with a heel from the parent stem. A cold
frame or under cover of a hand-light will be found the
best place, using very sandy soil. Cuttings made in the
ordinary way to a joint are also useful, and both methods
are worth a trial. If you do not succeed with cuttings,
write us in the early autumn, and we will endeavour to
give an article on root propagation.
TREES AND SHRUBS.
RHODODENDRONS SUFFERING (Rydel—The Rhodo-
dendrons are suffering from something wrong at the roots.
Either dryness or x>erhaps'_presence of lime in the soil
has affected them, and the damage the roots have suffered
has caused a check toUhe Heaves. If the plants are well
watered, they may grow out of it, provided no lime is
present. Lime is fatal to these plants.
WISTARIA LEAVES FOR INSPECTION (SybU Waller).
— Earwigs may have been responsible for the condition
of your Wistaria leaves, though we are disposed to think
that caterpillars may have been the culprits. All that
you can do is to spray the leaves with an arsenical wash,
which will kill any insects as they feed. Such a wash
may be prepared by mixing 2oz. of Paris green in 25 gallons
of water and using it as a spray in fine weather. The
chemical should be mixed in a little water before the
bulk of the water is used. Early morning is the best
time to apply such a spray. Wistarias give_quite good
results on pergolas, and are often grown in that way.
Your plants will probably grow quite vigorously presently.
ROSE GARDEN.
CATERPILLARS ON ROSES (Jeans). — The cater-
pillar is that of the feathered thorn {Himera Pennaria)
It is a " looper," and feeds on Oak, Plum and Rose. When
it becomes a pest, it may, like most caterpillars, be checked
by spraying with lead arsenate.
CLIMBING ROSE NOT DOING WELL (Amateur).—
We fear you have rather overwatered the plant, which
has somewhat checked the root action. It is better to give
such Roses one or two good soakings, then mulch,
than apply water too frequently in driblets. Have the
ground forked up ; then put in 2 inches or 3 inches of
well-decayed manure and leave it alone.
INJURY TO ROSES (Rev. R. F. C.).— We think the
damage to the Roses is not due to the manure used, but
rather to some insect, probably a species of bug, which
has punctured the young growths. You will probably
find an insect very similar in shape to the cuckoo-spit
fly, which is so common, hut not living as that does in a
sort of spittle. It is this insect that does the damage.
CLIMBING ROSES FOR A RED WALL (H. F.).~
As your house wall is red, you cannot do better than
plant Mme. Alfred Carrifire (white) and Rfive d'Or (creamy
yellow). See that the soil is dug at least 2 feet deep and
plenty of manure given to the lower soil. When planted,
the Roses should be given some water, and when established
they would need water and liquid manure twice a week
from May to August, the liquid manure being given at
each alternate watering.
ROSES FOR PERGOLA (M. M. K. C.).—We think a
beautiful effect would be obtained from your pergola
77 feet in length if you planted the follomng ramblers
that would bloom somewhere about the same time. If you
preferred, you could start with the colours in the order
named, or blend them to your own taste. Cream
and orange — Aviateur Blfiriot and Shower of Gold.
White — White Dorothy and Lady Blanche. Blush —
Lady Godlva, Tfibutante and Sweetheart. Pink —
Chatillon Rambler. Rose — fllinnehaha. Red and crimson
— Sodenia, Excelsa and Hiawatha.
CLIMBING ROSES FOR SOUTH WALL (H. P. B.,
Bristol). — You can obtain plants in pots now and plant
them out at once. Ask for extra strong plants in 8-incb
pots. Those grafted this year that have been hardened
off would be best. You should dig the border to a depth
of 3 feet, and work plenty of manure into the lower soil,
together with some basic slag, at the rate of 6oz. to a square
yard. Bury this and the manure 2 feet below the surface.
When planting Roses, turn them out of their pots
carefully, and, before putting on the final soil, scatter
a handful of bone-fiour around the plant. Water
plentifully during the dry weather, and it will be
as well to cover the surface soil with some very old
manure, not strawy stuff ; or, failing this, some spent
Hops from a brewery — about 2 inches or 3 inches
thick of these. You can then water over them, and
the Hops will preserve the moisture in the soil better.
Half-a-dozen good kinds would be Climbing Lady Ashtown,
Florence Haswell Veitch, R6ve d'Or, Mme. Alfred Carridre,
William Allen Richardson and Climbing Richmond.
GRAFTING CLEMATIS JACKMANNII AND OTHERS
ON CLEMATIS VITALBA (Clematis). —It is not usual
to graft the varieties of Clematis Jackmannii and other
kinds upon vigorous plants of C. Vitalba, neither would
such an operation be desirable, for the stock would be
certain to send out strong shoots and destroy the weaker
grafts. When grafting is resorted to, sections of roots
of C. Vitalba 3 inches or 4 inches long are taken in the
spring (February or March), and upon them soft shoots
of the varieties, taken from plants which have been forced
into growth, are grafted. Each piece of root with graft
attached is then potted singly into a 2|-inch pot and stood
in a moist, warm and close frame until both young roots
and young shoots are formed. Cuttings may be rooted
of the kinds you name if they are inserted at once in
sandy soil in a close frame.
THE GREENHOUSE.
SCHIZANTHUS TO GROW (B. P. 0.).— Schlzanthus
should be sown about August 15 in a cold frame in pots,
but the seedlings should be potted (as soon as they are
large enough to handle) into 3-irich pots singly and returned
into the cold frame. As soon as the plants are about
four Inches high, pinch their tops off ; this will induce
the growth of many side branches, causing the plants
to become bushy. A fortnight afterwards pot into 4-inch
pots), and then place on a shelf in the coolest end of a
greenhouse where it can have abundance of light and
plenty of air when the weather is favourable. Stop
the shoots again in spring about the end of March, and
a fortnight afterwards shift into their flowering pots
(6-inch). The chief secret of success in the growth of
this plant is to keep it always in a cool, airy atmosphere.
Heat and overcrowding are fatal to its success.
PROPAGATING IMPATIENS OLIVIERI (A. E. P.).—
The best time to propagate Impatiens Olivieri is during
the spring months, but it is not at all a difficult subject
to strike, and cuttings may be put in even now. The
best cuttin;:s are formed of the points of young growing
shoots, taken off at a length of about three inches. A
few of the bottom leaves having been removed, the cuttings
should be dibbled into well-drained pots well flUed with
fine sandy soil. Then a good watering must be given
through a fine rose in order to settle everything in its
place. After that place the pots in a close propagating-
case in a gentle heat, such as is used in the increase of
Fuchsias, Heliotropes and other soft-wooded plants.
Under these conditions the cuttings will soon root, when
they must be gradually hardened off and potted singly
into small pots
SWEET-SCENTED FLOWERS IN A GREENHOUSE
(H. D. M.). — There are a considerable number of sweet-
scented flowers available for the decoration of the green-
house or conservatory at different periods of the year.
Prominent among them are bulbs of different kinds,
of which the Freesias, Roman Hyacinths and Paper-
White Narcissi should be potted as soon as they are
obtainable, which will be, as a rule, during the first half
of Autnist. The Roman Hyacinth is often referred to
as needing to be forced, but bulbs potted in August in a
greenhouse temperature \vill flower by Christmas. Later
on come the other kinds of Hyacinths, different Polyanthus
Narcissi and the Lily of the Valley. Lilies, too, are very
desirable, the best for pot culture being Lilium longiflorum
or its variety Harrisii, whose long, silvery white trumpets
are very beautiful and sweetly scented. L. auratum
has a more pronounced fragrance, which is admired by
some. The perfume of L. speciosum, which is such a
handsome Lily, is less marked than in those previously
mentioned. Of these Lilies, the first to flower in the early
summer is L, longiflorum, then L. auratum, and after-
wards L. speciosum. The retarding of bulbs which now
prevails has, however, so upset the seasons that flowers
of these Lilies may be had all the year round. In any
selection of sweet-scented bulbous plants Tuberoses
must, of course, be included. Of shrubby plants that
flower during the mnter and early spring may be specially
mentioned tlie deliciously fragrant Daphne indica and
its white variety alba ; Boronia megastigma, whose
Violet-like perfume is of a very penetrating nature ;
and Luculia gratissima, with large, Hydrangea-like heads
of blossoms. This last, however, requires a good-sized
structure for its development. Soon after these comes
Cytisus racemosus, also known by the specific name of
fragrans. Some Cyclamens are also sweetly scented,
while the most pronounced of the Primulas in that respect
is the Abyssinian P. verticillata and P. kewensis. The
fiowers of Rhododendron Edgeworthii and some of its
progeny, such as fragrantissimum, sesterianum and Lady
Alice Fitzwilliam, are also very fragrant. These all bloom
in the spring. Some of the Carnations, too, are very
valuable, but can scarcely be expected to give of their
best unless there is a house specially set apart for their
accommodation. During the summer months you may
have the Daturas or Brugmansias, with their long,
trumpet-like, white blossoms ; Heliotrope or Clherry
Pie, admired by everyone ; Magnoha fuscata, whose
dull brownish flowers suggest Pineapple drops ; the
different hybrid Nicotianas, especially those raised from
N. affinis ; and the delicious Jasmine-like Bouvardia
Humboldtii corymbiflora, Humea elegans, with its
upright feathery panicles of reddish flowers, is very
ornamental, but its attractive fragrance is chiefly with
the flowers. Of climbers, two that can be specially recom-
mended are Rhynchospermum jasminoides and Jasminum
grandiflorum. Both flower during the summer, but
the last named is later in blooming than the other. The
large double German Wallflowers 'will, if sown in June
and July, bloom quite early in the year. The flowers
are deliciously fragrant, as also are those of the dull
purplish-coloured Cheiranthus kewensis, which bloom
throughout the winter. Stocks are so beautiful and
fragrant as to merit a note to themselves. The tall-
growing Beauty of Nice may be had in bloom in the winter
as well as in the summer; while, by varying the time of
sowing, the Ten- Week, East Lothian and intermediate
varieties may be had in flower throughout the greater
part of the year. Among the different subjects remarkable;
not for the fragrance of their fiowers, but of the foliage,
may be mentioned the Lemon Verbena (Aloysia citri-
odora), a universal favourite, which is fairly hardy in many
parts of the country; and the Myrtle, of which much the
same may belaid, and also a valuable evergreen for grow-
ing in large pots or tubs. Scented-leaved Pelargoniums,
too, which are certainly more popular now than they
were a few years ago, are very dissimilar from e^ch other,
not only in general appearance, but also in their perfume,
for the pronounced scents of Lemon and Peppermint
396
THE GARDEN.
[August i. iqi4.
are present amonR them, as well as many of their own.
The Apple-scented Sage (Sahia rufilans) is another that
can be recommended for its fragrance, while the scarlet
blossoms are also very shon?- Lastly, there are the
different forms of Boronia, a class of South African Heath-
like shrubs with very aromatic foliage, and the citron-
scented member of tlie Bine Gum family. Eucalyptus
citriodora.
QUESTIONS ON VARIOUS PLANTS (Harmgaie).—
1 Bei'onia Gloire de Lorraine may be flowered the
second year, but it is more satisfactory when grown
on annually from cuttings. Old plants that it is intended
to keep should be cut partially back after flowering,
and then, as soon as young shoots are pushed forth, be
repotted in a mixture of loam, peat and sand. If your
plant has not been touched in any way, it will now be
too late to prune it, but it may bo repotted, using a larger
pot if necessary. 2. The cause of the leaves of your
\sclepias turning yellow is no doubt owing to the plants
being more or less starved. As they have been nowenng
since the snrin" the pots will now doubtless be lull 01
riots, in wS'-case the plants will be greatly benefited
bv an occasional dose of some stimulant or by being
shifted into larger pots. 3. Bouvardias;^ of all kinds are
shrubs, and therefore perennials. 4. The Watsonias are
a genus of South African bulbous plants nearly related
to the Gladiolus. They should now be flom'ring, or
nearly approaching that stage. At this time they will
need 'plenty of water, but in the winter, when dormant,
must be kept quite dry. 5. There are several possible
reasons tor your Ferns turning yellow as described, but
without inspection one cannot feel very safe in gmng
an answer. In the first place— and that a very probable
cause— the atmosphere of the hou.se may be too dry, as,
even if the house is shaded by Summer Cloud, this is very
likely to happen in hot weather. The heat and dryness
of the atmosphere will encourage the increase of such
insect pests as red spider and tlirips, which will soon
disfigure the fronds. You say the plants are not over-
watered, but there is jnst the possibility that they have
been kept too dry at the roots. A golden rule to observe
in the successful culture of Ferns is that they enjoy a
considerable amount of humidity in the atmosphere.
6 If the Aubrictias are trimmed over with a sharp pair
of scissors, they will form dwarf plants for another season.
Should it be desired to increase them, they can as^ soon
as they recover from the cutting ox'er, be divided and
planted out in a prepared bed. If it is desired to keep
Violas over the second ye-.r, they must be tninmed
when they besrin to look shabby, not after the middle
of \ugust. This will lead to the production of--a con-
siderable number of young shoots, some of wnieh may,
if required, be taken off as cuttings and inserted in a
shady border. Some of the Antirrhinums and Sweet
Williams mil flower after the second summer, but they
cannot be depended upon like young plants.
FRUIT GARDEN.
ABOUT RASPBERRY CANES U)erinna). ^\'^■ do not
find any insect on tlir Kaspberry eaiies s.-ut, and think
they have possibly brrii dama-ed by forking among tliem
too deeply.
AMERICAN GOOSEBERRY MILDEW (Mrs. McD.).—
The Gooseberries are badly attacked by the Amcriean
Gooseberry mildew. You must report it o the Board
of Agriculture. Spraying is, we fear, of little use. IJut
the bushes should have all the young growths (on which
the fungus is likely to be present) removed m the early
autumn.
INJURY TO PEAR AND PEACH TREES (H H. C.).--
The Pear fruits appear to have been injured by cold.
Probably a frosty night occurred either when the trees
were in flower or soon afterwards. The leaves of the
Peach are injured by Peach leaf-cur. The curl is due
to the presence of a fungus (Exoasctis deformans). Collect
and burn all affected leaves to keep the disease from
snreadin". It is as well to remove the ends of the affected
shoots bllow the highest good leaf, as tlie fungus grows
into the leaf-buds near where it is present, and rests there
'" m^ealy' bug, mildew and spider on vines
(Troubled).— Om of these is bad enough at a time, but
the three together is no joke. For mildew and spider, the
test thing you can do is to dredge your Vines heavily
with flowers of sulphur, leaving it on for thirty-six hours.
Snrav the vines over lightly in the evening before applying
the sulphur, and keep the vinery extra warm while the
sulnhur is on. Use rain-water for spraying, and also for
syringing off the sulphur at the end of the thirty-six
hours As regards mealy bug, your best chance^of eradi-
cating it at this time of the year is to use Bunyard s
Blight Cure No. 1. from Messrs. George Bunyard and
Co Royal Nurseries, Maidstone. Apply with the brush.
With perseverance you may keep it down in th'f way.
HOW TO GROW MELONS IN A FRAME {E. C.).—
Make up a hot -bed 1.5 inehcs all round larger than the^ frame
and 2i feet deep. Tread it down firmly Stand your
frame on it as soon as it is made, keeping the light off for
a week or ten days afterwards to let the rank steam escape
out of the manure. At the end of this time place in the
centre of the frame some sods of turfy loam, grass side
downward, covering 2 square feet of the bed. On the
top of this place a bushel of loamy sml, broken up into
pieces the size of a hen's egg. Use the small with it as
well Make this into a mound or cone on the top of llie
sods spoken of above, and tread firmly. The top of this
mound of soil should be a foot froni the glass Drive a
stick into this to test the heat of the bed, and let it remain
in for two days. Take it out then and feel with the
until the heat has subsided. If, on the other hand, the
stick is only moderately warm, you may plant at once.
Place two plants in the middle of the mounds about
four inches apart. As soon as the plants have made
four leaves pinch the heart out of each plant. Y'ou mil
find they will then form side shoots. Select two of the
strongest of these and pinch the others off, and let them
grow^vithout stopping until they arc each 2 feet long,
trailing them on the ground (or the face of the border).
THE APPLE SAWFLY (St. C.).— The Apples are
attacked by the Apple sawflv. The fruits attacked
will soon fall, and all should be burned as quickly as
possible, so as to reduce the risk of the sawfly spreading
in future years. Spraying of any kind is not a certain
cure for the pest, for the fly lays its eggs either in the bud
or in the open flower, generally the latter.
GRAPES BADLY MILDEWED (B. M. H.).— The only
effective way of killing mildew on Vines when once
it has obtained a stronghold, as it seems to have done
in vour case, is to spray the Vines thoroughly mth rain-
water, and then to dredge every part with flowers
of sulphur. Leave it on for three days and then
blow off with a powerful pair of bellows. Late in the
afternoon is a good time to apply the sulphur.
PLUM TREES NOT FRUITING (ieicesfer).— Seeing
that your Plum trees are still making only wood growth, in
spite'of the root pruning to which you say they have been
subjected, we can only eonclude that your soil must be
over-rich, and also deficient in lime. Stone fruit will not
succeed in limeless soil. Boot prune again, but not too
severely as soon as the leaves have fallen, and add half a
bushel of lime to the soil of each tree, well mixing it with
the soil before applying.
INJURY TO APPLE TREE (Brum).— The Apple^ is
attacked not bv a fungus or a mildew, but by an aphis
the stem aphis 'of the Apple. A. Fitchii. We recommend
a thorough spraying with Quassia and soft soap, or with
a nicotine compound. A suitable Quassia and soft soap
wash may be made by simmering or gently boiling lib.
of Quassia chips in water for a couple of hours. Dissolve
half a pound of soft soap in warm water and stir in the
strainerl-off Quassia extract ; then add sufficient water
to make up ten gallons.
SHOT-HOLE FUNGUS IN PEACH TREE U- J- B.).--
Your Peach is attacked, apparently, by one of the shot-hole
fun-'i but as the fungus is not yet fruiting it is impossible
to say which one. Wc fear all the leaves showing this
spotting will drop in any ease, and recommend you to
spray the tree with ammoniaeal copper carbonate, made
by mixing 5oz. carbonate of copper into a paste with water,
addiu" three pints of strong ammonia, and diluting the deep
blue solution so obtained with water to make torty-flve
gallons. Make the solution in a wooden vessel.
GRAPES SCALDED (W. B. i.).— The sample of Grapes
sent are badly " scalded." This is a term applied to
Graiies which" appear as if they have been scalded or
parboiled Scalding is caused through late or imperfect
ventilation on bright sunny mornings while the Vines,
and even the berries, are saturated with moisture. To
stop any further mischief, have a little heat in the hot -water
pipes and ventilate more freely, leaving a little top and
bottom air on all night while the weather is warm, but
top air only at night when the weather is cold.
-The Peach was
: Early. M. I'
NAMES OF FRUIT.— Mrs. Maxacll.-
rather damaged, but we think it is Hale":
— Black Muscat Grape.
NAMES OF PLANTS.— £. B— Stachys lanata.
jl/„rt.— Ligustrum lucidum. E. E. S., Stol-e Poifes.—
Clematis recta. A. B. — Flowers dropped and shrivelled.
but jirobably Begonia Corbeille de Feu. Fulboume. — 1,
Spanish Broom (Spartium junccum); 2, Veronica incana ;
3, JLthionema pulchellum ; 4. Aspcrula tinctoria ; 6,
Arenaria montana. /. M.—l. Linaria purpurea: 2,
Geranium Phsum flore pleno (Double Dusky Crane's-bill)
F Green, Port Eliz'ibelh.—A verv fine form of Nepbro-
lepis cordifolia. S. B. B.— Pontederia crassipes (Water
Hvacinth). Aljred Allhusen. — Sanibncus racemosus.
^— n. ii.H.— Echium vulgarc (Bul'Iobs). P.E. Wnlsh.
— 1 Paulownia imperialis; 2, Olearia Haastii: 3. Choisya
ternata. TF. IF. B.— Pyrus Aria (White Beam) --—
A Smith.— UnxiSQB. borealis. Seeker.— \, Galega offici-
nalis and the variety alba; 2, Melissa officinalis (Balm);
3, Euphorbia Lathyris (Caper Spurge). M. P — The
plant is Helxinc Solieroli.
KITCHEN GARDEN.
cabbage ROOT MAGGOT (Fo/'/i).- The stocks
appear to have been attacked by the Cabbage root maggot.
This cannot be cured, but seedlings may be protected
to some extent by putting sand moistened with paraffin
about the bases of their stems early in their growtb,
MISCELLANEOUS.
FUNGUS ON AZALEA (J. McE.).— Tlie fungus is
Exobasidium japonieuni. It has only recently appeared
in this country, but is becoming quite common. The
galls it produces should be picked off and burned.
INSECT PESTS (H. S.).— Dip the Begonias in the soft
soaii and siil|ilnir wash we have frequently recommended
for tlie jilaiits. The Turnips arc badly attacked by the
diamond back moth larva;, and we recommend you to
dust them immediately with soot and lime or spray them
with arsenate of lead.
WORM TO NAME (Currad'o).- The creature sent is
not an insect, but a worm which lives inside insects,
such as ground beetles and the like. It leaves the bodies
of these insects at a certain stage of its career, and lives
for a time in the open air, but is quite harmless to plants
and man. It is known as Gordius.
WEED SPREADING IN WOODS (Mrs. P.).— The speci-
men scut for identifleation is the Gout-weed (jEgopodium
Poila'Taria). It is one of the most difiicult weeds to
eradicate once it has been allowed to become well estab-
lished The best method to adopt is to fork out the weed
as much as possible ; tlien, as young shoots appear above
ground keep them hoed down before the leaves have a
chance to develop. By this means the weed may be
gradually destroyed.
EXAMINATIONS IN HORTICULTURE (R. Ji.).—
The principal examinations in horticulture are those
instituted by the Jioyal Horticultural Society. Tlu^
are those for the National Diploma in Horticulture, the
General Examinations for all classes of gardeners, the
Parks' Employes Examination for those employed in
public parks, &c., and the Teachers' Examination for
teachers in schools. Full particulars of these may be
TnTnrtwo davs Take it out then and feel witii the i obtained on application to the Secretary, Eoyal Horti-
hand U it S hot you must not plant the Melons I cultural Society, Vincent Square, London, S.W.
SOCI ETI ES.
NATIONAL ROSE SOCIETY.
The provincial show of this society was held in the Sydney
Gardens, Bath, on the 16th ult. The recent rainfall had
certainly improved the quality of many Roses exhibited,
and the' show, as a whole, was a most excellent one for
so tryiu" a season. There was a good attendance of visitors
throughout the day. The large marquee was delightfully
cool, owing to its erection in a particularly favourable
position.
Nurserymen.
The Jubilee Trophy and gold medal, offered for thirty-
six blooms, distinct varieties, of exhibition Roses, were
secured bv Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Sons, Ledbury,
with a wc'll-flnisbed stand, including excellent blooms of
Mme Maurice de Luze, Her Majesty, Lohengrin, Frau
Karl Druschki, Mrs. A. E. Coxhead, Helen Keller, Mildred
Grant, Claudius, H. V. Machin and Tom Wood. The
second place was secured by iMessrs. Frank Cant and Co.,
f'olehcstcr, who also staged some- very good flowers, the
finest blooms being Mrs. Joseph H. Welch, Maman
Cochet Prince .\rthur. Mrs. Foley Hobbs and Mme. Jules
Gravereaux. Messrs. Hugh Dickson of Belfast were
placed third.
The Mavor's Cup, offered for seventy-two blooms,
distinct was also carried off by Messrs. Dickson, Ledbury,
with an equally effective stand of well-developed blooms.
They also led the way with twenty-four varieties, distinct,
including Lady Barbara, iMrs. David McKee, Countess
of Derby, Duchess of Sutherland, Lady Ashtown, Bessie
Brown and JIabel Drew.
Mr Harry Drew. Longwortb, Berks, obtained the
bi.iirvt award for thirty-six blooms, distinct, the best
flo'xver- )"iiig Mme. Eiig6ne Verdier, Avoca, Ulnch
Bruuiier Suzanne M. Bodoeanachi, Frau Karl Druschki,
Earl of ' Gosford. Mildred Grant, Florence Pemberton,
Hugh Dickson, George Dickson and Dean Hole. Mr.
George Prince, Oxford, was second.
Mr. Drew again scored for sixteen distinct varieties,
three blooms of each. ,, t i.
For twenty-four blooms, distinct varieties, Jlr. John
Mattock, Headington. Oxford, was to the fore, his blooms
of Ethel Malcolm, Britisli IJueeii, Edward Mawley and
Earl of Warwick being excellent in every respect. Mr.
Charles Turner, Slough, was a good second, showing
George Dickson. Frau Karl Druschki, Mrs. Foley Hobbs
and Helen Keller in good form and colour
Ml John Mattock was again first for eight distinct
varieties, three blooms of each ; second, Mr. Ernest
Hicks Wallingford; third, Jlr. C. Green, Hitchin.
Mr Henry Drew secured first plaie for eighteen blooms,
among wiiich the following wrrc in good form : Mme.
Jules Gravereaux, Molh' hhanuan Crawford. Mme. Leon
Constantin, Comtesse de Nadaillae and Alexander Hill
Gray. Mr. George Prince, Oxford, followed closely
witli a well-flnishcd stand.
Mr John Mattock led the way with eighteen blooms,
distinct, Mr. Ernest Hicks being second.
Open Classes.
Mr George Prince secured first place for twelve blooms
of new Roses, distinct, including Mabel Drew, Mrs. J.
Wiieh Wi/abeth, iMrs. W. K. Rowe and Mrs. Cornwallis
We^t ' M.>srs. Hugh Dickson, Limited, Belfast, coming
seeoii'd, and Messrs. Alex. Dickson, Ledbury, third.
For twelve blooms of any new Rose, Mr. Elisha J. Hicks
was a good first with Mrs. G. Norwood, wiiich he staged in
splendid condition, Messrs. Alex. Dickson conilUL'
second with George Dickson, and Mr. J. Mattock third wltli
British Queen. i , ,, tt
For twelve blooms of any Hybrid Perpetual, Mr M,
Drew and Messrs. Alex. Dickson were awarded equal flrsst.
Mr. Charles Turner coming third. ,, , . ,
For twelve blooms of any Rose other than Hybrid
Perpetual, Tea or Noisette, Messrs. A, Dickson secured
first place, Mr. C. H. Green second, and Mr. J. Mnltoek
third. . ,, ^ ,i TT
For twelve blooms of any Tea or Noisette Rose, Mr. H.
Drew secured first, Mr. J. Mattock second, and Jlr. (i.
Prince third. , , , « , „•
For twelve distinct varieties, three blooms of each, lea
and Noisette Roses, Mr. George Prince secured first prize,
and Mr. H. Drew second.
Perpetcvl-Flowerino Decorative Roses,
For five baskets of cut Roses in distinct varieties
Mr. George Prince was awarded first prize, Mr. H. Driw
coming second, and Mr. J. Mattock third.
^iw^®-
GARDEN.
No. 2229.— Vol. LXXVIII,
August 8, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
1863.
Generous Gift to Reigate. — It is with pleasure
I that we learn that Sir Jeremiah Colman, Bart.,
[so well known in horticultural circles, has purchased
[Reigate Hill from Lord Monson and presented
lit to Reigate, thus ensuring it being an open space
[for ever. Reigate Hill is one of the most charming
spots in Surrey, overlooking a beautiful and
Itypical stretch of English landscape. The gift
" is to commemorate the jubilee of the Reigate
Corporation, which was inaugurated in
A Little-Known Rock Garden Plant.
In Bellium bellidioides, a miniature plant
known by the name of the False Daisy,
we have one of the most charming sub-
jects for the rockery, and yet it is a
plant very seldom met with. The small
rosettes of dark green spathulate leaves
form quite a dense mass, above which
rise the small, fairy-like Daisies in great
profusion, and about two inches high,
the whole summer through. It was intro-
duced in 1796 from the Mediterranean
region, and requires an open, sunny
position in well-drained, stony soil, where
the little stolons, about an inch long,
which it continues to send out, can
ramble freely and root, when it will
soon make an attractive little colony. It
is readily raised from seed or by division.
Pink Mallows in the Garden. — One of
the' most attractive hardy annuals in the
garden just now is the pink Mallow, or
Lavatera rosea splendens. We have it
growing in association with the white
Phlox Mrs. E. H. Jenkins, and the com-
bination is as perfect a colour harmony
as one could wish. Last year we remem-
ber seeing it growing between white
Japanese Anemones, when the effect also
was very pleasing. This pink Mallow is
an annual to make a note of now, so that
it may be included in the next seed order
for sowing next spring. The seeds can
be sown outdoors, but the seedlings need
plenty of room and fairly good soil.
The Night-scented Stock. — During the
past few weeks we have derived so much
pleasure from this little-known annual that we can-
not refrain from writing about it. During the day-
time the plant has nothing to commend it, but
early in the evening the pale lilac flowers unfold
and quickly satmrate the air with their delightful
fragrance. We have it growing under the windows,
where it is about a foot high, and there are few
greater joys in the garden than to inhale its frag-
rance. The seeds can be sown outdoors in spring,
and the seedlings do not need transplanting. It is
an annual that ought to be in every garden where
fragrance is appreciated.
Sowing Seeds of Alpines. — Many seeds of these
interesting plants, such as Primulas, Dianthi,
Lychnis, Arenaria and a host of others, should be
sown as soon as ripe. Much better results are
usually obtained than if the seeds are left till the
spring, as they germinate more quickly and evenly.
This also applies to many of the monocotyledons,
such as Lilies, Eremuri, Irises and similar plants.
THE FALSE DAISY, BELLIUM BELLIDIOIDES.
A FREE-FLOWERING PLANT IN THE ROCK
DURING SUMMER AND EARLY AUTUMN.
A Beautiful Hybrid St. John's Wort.— We were
much charmed with a group of Hypericum moseri-
anum the other day. At this season, when few shrubs
are flowering and the leaves have not their autumn
tints, a bright flower such as this is appreciated. If
used as a groundwork for small deciduous, early
flowering shrubs, such as Hamamelis, Daphnes or
similar kinds, the bed can be made bright for almost
the whole year. This beautiful St . John's Wort is the
result of crossing Hypericum patulum and H. caly-
cinum. The flowers are large, golden, almost butter
yellow, and appear in profusion for many weeks.
Important Notice to Our Readers. — A corre-
spondence has been taking place in the columns
of the Advertiser's Weekly and the Nurseryman
and Seedsman regarding the bona ffles of certain of
the advertisements which are published in some of
the gardening papers. So far as The Garden is
concerned, the Proprietors have fi}r some years
made it their practice to dechne to insert any
advertisement as to which there could be
the shghtest ground for suspicion. The
result has been that the readers of The
Garden have learned to know that the
appearance of an advertisement in The
Garden may be regarded as a trade mark
of respectability and integrity. We have
never yet gone so far as to guarantee the
goods supplied by our advertisers, because
with the precautions that are taken the
necessity has not arisen.
A Good Crimson Rose.- One of the
best crimson Roses for the garden, and
one that never fails to elicit the admira-
tion of visitors, is Chateau de Clos Vougeot.
Unfortunately, its name is unwieldy for
English tongues, but that does not
detract from the merits of the flower.
It is a Hybrid Tea of moderately vigorous
constitution, and the large flowers are
dark velvety crimson, shaded with scarlet.
They are also fragrant and last longer on
the bush than those of any other Rose
we know, while the colour is not affected
by the strongest sunshine. The only
drawback to this beautiful dark Rose is
its ungainly habit, the shoots growing at
very awkward angles. This can, howeverj
be largely remedied when pruning by
cutting to buds pointing upwards.
The Lowberry as a Preserve. — During
the last few days we have been testing
the fruits of the Lowberry as a pre-
serve, and have been delighted with the
excellent jam they make. This has all the
good features of Blackberry jam, minus
hard cores and most of the seeds. Of
course, many seeds are there, but not in any-
thing like the quantities that we find in Black-
berry jam. The flavour of the two is practically
identical. Though not fruiting so freely as the
Loganberry, the Lowberry is well worth a plac^:
in those gardens where it can be given plenty
of room, preferably rambling over some rough trellis.
The fruits are jet black, very juicy and sweet
It needs precisely the same treatment as the
Loganberry.
THIS IS
GARDEN
398
THE GARDEN.
[August 8, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
{Tlie Editor is not responsible for Ike opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
Sweet-Scented Rosaries. — In answer to your
correspondent's enquiry for a recipe for making
beads from Rose petals, she will find a full
description of the method in a small sixpenny
book called " Perfumes and Cosmetics," by
Thomas Bales, F.G.S., and Charles Godfrey
Leland. The publishers are Messrs. Dawbam
and Ward, Limited, 6, Farringdon Avenue,
London, E.G. — R. de Free.
Ivy Growing Without Roots. — In a recent
issue a reader asks, " Has anyone ever seen Ivy
growing on a building without any root connec-
tion ? " '"Yes, I have. In the inner courts of
Muckross Abbey — Lord Ardilaun's demesne near
Killamej' — the Ivy is growing freely on the ruined
wall, although the main stem has been cut away
tion as to any garden competitions or flower
shows known to your readers in the County of
London, and to receive suggestions as to any
centres likely to promote in working-class dis-
tricts the cultivation of gardens. — Arthur R.
Athey, 197, Walworth Road, S.E.
The Judging of Roses. — I was always under
the impression that the public were not admitted
to flower shows while the judging is going on ;
but it appears that this is not always followed,
even in important exhibitions. The reason I
form this opinion is that your correspondent
Edwin Molyneux, in The Garden for August i.
writing on " The Most Fragrant Rose," says,
concerning the recent award for the " Clay " Cup,
that he watched the judges closely all the
time they were engaged in adjudicating upon
this particular item. Now, if the rules were
strictly carried out, how would it be possible
to watch every action of the judges unless your
correspondent was one of them, which he implies,
LEAVES OF ROSE AIMEE VIBERT, SHOWING THE WORK OF THE LEAF-CUTTING BEE.
2 feet from the soU, and you can pull it away
from the wall at the base. Yet the foliage is
bright and flourishing. When I saw it years
ago it was some 30 feet high and 12 feet to 20 feet
broad, in a mass, and what a lovely ride we had
through the estate ! — George Bunvard, Maidstone.
London Gardens Guild. — May I invoke the
help of your readers in my endeavour to extend
the gardening movement among the working-
classes of London ? Through the kindly initiative
of Mr. Noel Buxton, M.P., the Browning Settle-
ment has established the London Gardens Guild,
the aim of which is " To promote the planting
and tending of gardens in the working-class
districts of London ; to encourage existing garden
competitions and flower shows ; to develop such
contests where there are none ; to aim at every
available patch of ground attached to private
dwelling place or place of business being planted
with trees, shrubs or flowering plants," The motto
of the Guild is : " London a Garden City ! Why
not ? " I should be very glad to receive informa-
although he does not actually say, he was not ? —
An Outsider.
The Leaf-Cutting Bee and Roses. — I was
much interested in the note 0:1 pige 387 of last
week's issue, where "Heather Bell" describes his
experience with the leaf-cutting bee and Pelar-
goniums. I am sending a photograph of a
spray of Rose leaves taken from the climber
Aimee Vibert, showing the damage done to
the foliage by the leaf-cutting bee. This insect
appears to attack some Roses more than
others, Frau Karl Druschki and other rampant
growers seeming first favourites. The bee
itself is one of the solitary kind, and is about
the same length as the ordinary hive bee, only
a little stouter. Her black body is covered with
short, brown hairs. Each leaf she attacks is
rapidly cut, and the circular piece, held between
fore-feet and jaws, is carried to her underground
nest. The pieces so gathered are made into tiny
thimbles or cells, and in each she places one egg,
surrounding it with bee bread. In this leafy home
the tiny grub lives and feeds until it emerges
from the chrysalis as a perfect insect. — E. E.
Carter, Romford.
Maries' Balloon-Flower in the Moraine.—
Experiments in the cultivation of certain plants
in the moraine are extremely interesting, ' and
it is amazing to see how many subjects which
will grow in a Tjorder or on ordinary rockwork
will flourish much better in the moraine. A
trial of Platycodon Mariesii in a whinstone moraine
with a subsoU of sandy loam is proving quite a
gain, as the plant is not only growing well, but is
flowering exceptionally freely. This Platycodon
can, of course, be grown in a border, but there
are some who find it short-lived in this position.
One cannot tell positively from the results of a
short trial, but there is every appearance that
P. Mariesii will do better in the moraine than
in a border here. The gravel keeps the roots
cool underneath, and also absorbs and gives off
gradually the heat from the sun for the benefit
of the foUage and flowers. It is easy to criticise
moraine planting, but the results are such as to
convince the most sceptical that much advantage
will be derived from its practice with many good
plants. — S. Arnott, Dumfries.
JULY, 3 A.M.
" Flowers only flourisli rishtly in the garden of some-
one who loves them." — Ruskin.
The dew is yet upon the Rose —
Wait ! presently the breeze will shake
The blossom open to the mom —
And passing silently will close
The night flower, watching by the lake,
.\nd turn the Lilies towards the dawn.
Carnations then, and Roses sweet.
White Jessamine upon the wall,
Will breathe their tender fragrance out ;
And Sweet Peas stretch their wings to meet
The pearly dewdrops, as they fall.
And hidden in these sleeping bowers
I feel ashamed to be awake —
With dreaming foliage all about.
And noise of sticky buds that break.
The very birds are silent yet —
God is alone amongst his flowers :
The paling stars, in trembling state.
About the throbbing skies are set
To bid the eager dawn await. M.
C. S.
Hardiness of Roscoea cautlioides. — This
Roscoea, which we owe to the enterprise of Messrs.
Bees, Limited, is a charming and distinct species,
which some have been chary of purchasing until
its hardiness was more fully proved or until it
became cheaper. I have been following its culti-
vation with considerable interest, as it is always
desirable to know the ways of a new plant as far
as possible, so that one may. be successful in its
cultivation. So far as I can learn, it is probably
hardy in at least the less inclement districts
of the three kingdoms, and in none of the places
in which I have seen it has it failed. In two good
gardens in Wigtownshire it has stood the past
winter, and is thriving well and has flowered
satisfactorily. One plant was in the fascinating
garden of Sir Herbert Maxwell at Monreith, where
it is in the border. Another was in the rock garden
in that delightful Paradise of Logan, in the same
county, the home of Mr. Kenneth M'Douall. It
was in bloom there at the end of June. This dis-
tinct pale yellow Roscoea is worth some considera-
tion from purchasers of new plants. — D. A.
Adgust 8, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
399
Shrubs Flowering and Fruiting.— The present
is a quite out-of-ttie-ordinary season for the
flowering and fruiting of shrubs. It is the first
time Ceesalpinia japonica has flowered here,
and plants which have produced blooms sparsely
in the past, e.g., Banksia Roses and Azara micro-
phylla, have been very profuse of bloom. It is the
first time I have seen Choisya temata fruiting, and
that on one plant only ; also the first time in
my experience of Chimonanthus fragrans fruiting,
though this I saw in a Southern garden, and perhaps
it is not uncommon. One specimen of Azara here
was profusely fruited, but recently the fruits
have all disappeared. The garden fruits are extra-
ordinary, Gooseberries and Currants being bent to
the ground with the crops, and Apricots, Peaches,
Plums and Apples all requiring an amount of thin-
ning far beyond anything I have seen for years.
Strawberries are the one sparse crop, and it would
seem their failure is general.- — R. P. B., Prestmikirk.
Rose Zepliyrine Drouhin. — In The Garden
of July 25, page 375, " W. B. G." expresses a
desire for information respecting this Rose, and
from my experience I am convinced that more
than your correspondent require information
regarding it. My attention had not been called
to this Rose till last summer, when a lady member
of the family here returned from a visit to some
English friends, where she had seen a bloom of
it in a gentleman's button-hole, and was high
in its praise, adding that " we must have it."
I accordingly purchased four plants of it from a
well-known English Rose-grower, and planted
them in good positions. Meanwhile another plant
of the same variety was received from a different
source. As blooms developed on my quartet
I was rather disappointed to find them small in
size, rather globular in form, of a rather washed-
out pink shade, and very ephemeral. I was
about to express my disappointment to the young
lady when she declared that the firm had not
supplied the proper article, and backed up her
assertion by reference to a vase filled with blooms
of what she declared to be the true Zephyrine
Drouhin, beautiful indeed, and far removed
from those home on the plants of my purchase.
This led me to examine the single specimen
received from another source, which had been
overlooked, and this proved the correctness of
the young lady's contention. But this is not all.
I now looked up the list of the grower from whom
I had purchased the quartet, and found Zephyrine
Drouhin described as a " shell pink." I next
looked up the list of a noted Continental Rose-
grower, and found it there described as a " rosy
crimson," and you now. Sir, describe it as " carmine
pink." I, too, should be glad for information
respecting the colour of Zephyrine Drouhin.
The two so-called Zephyrine Drouhins we have
here, while differing in foliage and flower, are
both thomless. — Charles Comfort, Midlothian.
[The colour of this Rose is described by the
National Rose Society as bright carmine pink,
and this, we think, is the best description that
can be given. The stems are mostly green and
thomless, and the blooms very fragrant. — Ed.]
FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
August 10. — United Horticultural Benefit and
Provident Society's Committee Meeting.
August II. — Royal Horticultural Society's and
National Gladiolus Society's Combined Show at
Vincent Square, Westminster.
August ig.^-Plower Show ^t Taunton Dene.
ROSE-GROWING IN
GARDENS.
TOWN
THE advancing season has given us
further opportunities of estimating
the merits of our new Roses, as well
as of confirming opinions already
formed of older acquaintances. One
of the fascinations of Rose-growing
lies in adding to our collections each year
some varieties of which we have had no
previous experience, and there is no reason
why the town gardener should deny himself
this small luxury, however limited his domain,
though experience will soon have taught him
that he may not hope to succeed with all he
plants.
But there are always a certain number of trees
which should be discarded at the end of each
season, and even if the grower finds he has added
to their numbers, it is not all wasted effort, for
he has added to the sum of his knowledge, and
occasionally he will chance upon a discovery
that will reward him for his pains. Last autumn
I obtained a few plants of a charming little Rose,
Mevrou Dora von Tets, choosing it merely from
a catalogue description, and have been delighted
with the result. Rather resembling Richmond,
it is freer in growth, and even more profuse in
blooming. In colour it is rather darker, being
a full rich crimson, which lasts well even in bright
sunshine. It is a thin Rose, and will hardly give
a flower of exhibition size ; but each one is oi
beautiful shape, and it makes an ideal bedding
Rose. It is fragrant, and does not seem given
to mildew, so that none need avoid it. The
National Rose Society's official catalogue makes
no mention of this Rose, and but few nurserymen
in this country appear to have it in their lists ;
but in conversation with one the other day I
learned that he had been much impressed by it
and had budded a large quantity in anticipation
of a big demand when its merits are better
known.
Of George Dickson I write more reluctantly
and with some diffidence, but must confess to
some disappointment in finding it so easy a mark
for mildew, and though there can be no question
of its vigour, I suspect it a little of being inclined
to the production of wood at the expense of
flower.
A Rose that has proved its suitability for town
gardens is Mrs. Charles Curtis Harrison, a bedding
variety of carmine and crimson pink colouring,
which does not fade into an ugly colour as many
of similar shades do. This is one of the newer
varieties which have been rather overlooked,
probably because of the preponderance of
pinks ; but it is very distinct, and is a
beautiful and shapely Rose, with stiff and
well-formed petals, aUke useful for garden or
exhibition.
The free use of the hoe upon Rose-beds is to
be commended at all times, but great care should
be exercised in doing the work. Many roots are
near the surface, and to break and injure these will
cause a set-back to the plants. The hoe used should
always be a narrow one, and only the top inch
or 2 inches of soil ought to be disturbed. By
the way, a most useful instrument can be made
by fastening a light three-pronged garden hand-
fork upon a broom handle, and with this the
surface of the Rose-beds can be pricked over with
a minimum of effort. P. L. Goddard.
HARDY HIMALAYAN
PRIMULAS.
THE hardy species of Primula, so far as
at present known, include about
seventy varieties. A considerable
number of these have been in cultiva-
tion for a good many years, and there
can be little doubt that a large pro-
portion of those which are not yet to be seen
outside botanic gardens, or a few other collections
of more than usual size, will be found hardy enough
to stand the trials of our climate. Of those which
are cultivated, a certain number are liable to rot
off at the crowns during a wet winter, but they are
generally hardy.
The fullest account of the Primulas of the
Himalayas at present to be met with is that
entitled " Observations on Indian Primulas," by
Sir George Watt, C.I.E., M.B., CM., LL.D., which
was read before the Horticultural Club in 1904,
and republished in the Primula Conference Report
of the Royal Horticultural Society, 1913. This
was supplemented at the conference by a paper
by Mr. W. G. Craib, M.A., entitled " Notes on
Himalayan Primulas," and also published in the
Conference Report. This is a review of the work
done since the appearance of Sir George Watt's
contributions. These papers, with the monograph
by Pax in Engler's " Pflanzenreich," contain
practically all our knowledge of these Primulas
from a botanist's point of view. It is my
object to discuss them from a horticultural
standpoint.
P. belUdifolia (King). — ^This belongs to Pax's
section Capitatae ; it is closely related to P.
farinosa, and, as Sir George Watt well remarks,
may be considered a large condition of P. farinosa,
our Bird's-eye Primrose. It comes from Sikkim,
where it grows at an altitude of 13,000 feet. It
has good-sized heads of many bluish purple
flowers. It conforms to the same treatment as
P. farinosa.
P. capitata (Hook. f.). — One meets with many
who fail to discriminate between P. capitata and P.
denticulata, but those who have seen the two
together will at once recognise their great distinct-
ness. P. capitata is easily recognised by the dark
blue colour of the narrow, bell-shaped flowers in a
close head, the outer blooms being pendent ; but
an unfailing means of differentiating between P.
capitata and P. denticulata lies in the fact that in
the former the scape rises with the leaves, and does
not precede them, as is the case with P. denticu-
lata. This is mentioned because some of the colours
now seen in the varieties of the popular P. denticu-
lata closely approach those of P. capitata. P.
capitata is a handsome species, a foot or more in
height. Sir George Watt considered this possibly
only an alpiae form of P. denticulata. 'The leaves
are frequently farinose, but the forms without
meal are the hardiest. In cultivation P.
capitata is usually only a biennial, but in
some places it is perennial, and in others it
flowers and sows itself quite freely. There is
an interesting double-flowered form of this vari-
able species.
P. denticulata (Smith).— It is almost un-
necessary to say much regarding this well-known
and favourite species. It is one of the easiest to
grow, but resents drought, and suffers greatly in
dry positions during hot weather. It is the most
abundant of the Himalayan Primulas in a state
400
THE GARDEN.
[August 8, 1914.
of Nature, and extends over a large portion of the
Himalayan regions, where it is generally found on
grassy hillsides. It varies greatly in size, and in
cultivation it is most variable in colour. We now
have many varieties, not only of P. denticulata
type, but also of the form cashmeriana, which is
mainly distinguished by the beautiful farina on
the under surface of the leaves. There are many
forms passing under various names, such as alba,
major, minima, maxima and others, while the
colours range from white through shades of
purple and lilac and rose. It is quite hardy, but
sometimes suffers in variable winters by water
lodging in the crowns.
P. elongata (Watt), — A Primula which is nearly
allied to the well-known P. sikkimensis, but still
more nearly to P. obtusifolia, is P. elongata from
Sikkim, where it grows at heights of from
11,000 feet to 12,00 J feet. The flowers are yellow
and very delicate, with petals which are thin,
leaves, and also by it having the flowers on short
but distinct pedicels, while those of denticulata
are sessile or nearly so. This may be considered a
geographical form of P. denticulata. It comes
from Kumaon and Bhutan, but is not found
in Sikkim. The flowers are of much the same
colour as in P. denticulata. When first shown
in London, P. erosa was described as having
larger flowers, but this is not the case.
Morelands, Duns. John MacWatt.
(To be continued.)
LEWISIA HOWELLII AS A MORAINE
PLANT.
The illustration of this interesting plant was taken
in the nursery of Messrs. Wallace and Co.,
Colchester, in the early days of June. This plant,
which is growing in a moraine, is of exceptional
interest by reason of its free-flowering propensities.
THE DAFFODIL IN AUS-
TRALIA AND N EW
ZEALAND.
LEWISIA HOWELLII GROWING IN A MORAINE. THIS PLANT
HUNDRED FLOWERS THIS YEAR.
PRODUCED OVER FOUR
smooth and veined. It has the smooth leaves of
P. sikkimensis, but the corolla tubes are much
elongated. P. elongata is not difficult to cultivate
under the same conditions as P. sikkimensis.
P. Elwesiana (King). — Handsome though this
is, it is not su easy to cultivate as many of the
Himalayan species. P. Elwesiana comes from
Sikkim, where it grows at a height of about twelve
thousand feet. It is worthy of any amount of
attention from those who are fortimate enough to
possess it. It is rather pubescent, although the
leaves are coriaceous, and has large, solitary flowers
of purple or violet. It belongs to Pax's section
Omphalogramma, and is nearly related to the
charming P. vincaeflora.
P. erosa (Wall.). — Pax places this among the
Capitataj, and it is very closely related to the
popular P. denticulata. It is distinguished from
the latter by its very large and thin erose
It has ten branched flower-spikes, each with from
thirty to sixty buds and expanded flowers. The
illustration scarcely does justice to this wonderful
specimen, which carried over four hundred flowers
this year. Tiiis plant has stood two winters, and
is now better than ever. Its chief requirement
appears to be thorough drainage, such as only a
well-made moraine can give. As the Lewisia
belongs to the same Natural Order as the Portulaca,
otherwise known as Purslane or Sun Plant, it is,
perhaps, not so surprising that it thrives when
given perfect and thorough drainage and an open,
sunny position. Unfortunately, a good many who
would like to cultivate this charming and
interesting plant find it very difficult to manage,
especially when only given ordinary rock garden
treatment. The success achieved in this instance
may act as a guide to those who have tried the
plant and failed.
1 SUPPOSE there are some people who are
observant by nature, and some who are
not. I never do know the colour of Mrs.
So-and-so's new go^vn, or what sort of
hat Miss What-do-you-call-her wore at
that garden-party. Until I had a house
to furnish, I never seemed to realise any great
difference between chairs and tables, but when
the necessity arose I never saw any chairs or tables
alike. History has repeated itself with me in
the case of the Daffodil in Australia and New
Zealand. I knew that there were people there
who grew the flower. I even knew that people
of the names of Thomas, Rhodes, Clark, Miller
and Buckland had started the fascinating game
of hybridising, and that they had turned out some
good seedlings ; for pictures now and again
found their way to WhiteweU, and I had seen
a real New Zealand-raised bloom in one of Mr.
A. M. Wilson's collections at Vincent Square
last year. Further, I knew from what Miss
Currey used to tell me years back, and from
information given me by my old friend Kingsmill
about the celebrated syndicates of the late nineties,
that some of the very best of our home-raised
varieties were going to those regions year
after year. I knew that there were shows at
such places as Melbourne and Auckland and
Christchurch.
But I had no idea of the vast extent to which
the cultivation of the Daffodil had spread, more
especially in New Zealand ; nor of the great army
of seedling-raisers already at work ; nor of the
network of shows ; nor of the large quantities
of the better sorts that are yearly passing from
us to them. All these things were a revelation,
and, unless I had had to forage about for material
for the 1914 Royal Horticultural Society's
" Daffodil Year Book," in all human probability
they would still have been unknown, and the
writing of this present article no more possible
than for me to chronicle the doings of the
Martians in Mars. Let me deal, then, in orderly
sequence with my subject, and, for the sake
of clearness, let me divide it into " heads " —
" Growers," " Seedling-Raisers," " Shows," and
" Dealings."
Growers. — Casual words frequently reveal more
than set phrases or sentences. The casual words
here are the prominence given to the Daffodil
in such papers as the Fann Journal of Sydney
(August I and September i, 1913) ; the Weekly
Presa of Christchurch ; the Olago Witness of
Dunedin (October 8, 1913) ; and the Weekly
Graphic of Auckland (September 18, 1912).
Illustrations in quantity and columns of spare
are not given by editors to anything and every-
thing. When we do find them, they betoken a
public who want them. These, of course, might
not be growers. What, however, can be the mean-
ing of a catalogue like that of Messrs. W. H.
Higgins, Limited, of Geelong, Victoria, with thirty
pages out of forty given up to Daffodils ; or
Reilly, Gill and Co.'s (Dunedin) list of 276 varieties,
but that someone wants them for their garden ?
Why is it that little spring shows are rising up
like mushrooms all over New Zealand, and that
in them Daffodils are invariably the leading
feature ? Why does St. John's Church, Fielding
August 8, 1914.]
THE GARDEN
401
(Wellington), or St. Luke's, Rotorua (Auckland),
or PalmerstoTi North, or the Presbyterian Church
of Cambridge (Auckland) have a Daffodil society
or an exhibition where Daffodils are the flowers ?
Why ? Because there are people in their midst
who are growing them. A few large shows like
those of Dunedin or Auckland or Christchurch
need not indicate a wide interest. A multiplicity
of small ones does do so.
Seedling-Raisers.— I am unable to say very
much about the seedling-raisers of Australia.
To begin with, as far as I
know. Daffodil cultivation is con-
fined to New South Wales and
Victoria ; but why South
Australia should not join in I
cannot imagine. Perhaps it does
and I do not know it. If so,
there may be a seedling-raiser
or two there. In the other pro-
vinces, as far as I have been
able to ascertain, there are
but five or six of any wide
repute — Messrs. Leonard Buck-
land, Alister Clark and D. V.
West in Victoria, and Messrs.
H. Selkirk, H. H. B. Bradley
and Arthur Yates in Sydney.
Mr. Clark specially goes in for
triandrus hybrids ; Mr. Selkirk,
in the warm climate of Sydney,
finds Tazetta hybrids (tridymus
and Poetaz) the most satis-
factory ; Mr. Bradley, the
secretary of the New South Wales
Horticultural Society, goes in
more for all-round hybrids ;
Mr. Yates, ditto ; Mr. L. Buck-
land has been very successful of
late years, and has won the
Boyce Cup for twelve seedlings
at the Royal Horticultural Society
of Victoria Show. In the
Bailarat Show, in the forty-
eight class he had about twenty-
four of his own seedlings in
his collection. Two of his very
best are named Pink 'Un and
King of the Poets. Mr. D. V.
West has been hybridising for
many years and has produced
some fine flowers. A Leedsii of
much the same proportions as
White Emperor won the premier
prize for a single bloom in that
division at the last Bailarat
Show ; and his beautiful white
Ajax, Mrs. D. V. West, received,
as long ago as 1911, a first-
class certificate from the Victoria
Daffodil Conference. He most
kindly sent me two photographs of
it, one of which is reproduced on
this page. The other, together
with an English photograph of a Penzance-grown
Mrs. D. V. West, are to appear in the Royal
Horticultural Society's " Daffodil Year Book." By
the way, now that I know exactly what will be
in it, might I suggest that half-a-crown spent upon
a copy will be half-a-crown well invested. It was
published on August i, and may be obtained,
post free, from the Secretary, Royal Horticultural
Society, Vincent Square, Westminster, for -zs.- gd.
I believe what Mr. West says of Victoria is like-
wise true in spirit of New South Wales hybridisers :
" I think there are only three who have been
raising for over ten years, although there are many
more of recent years." We do not know what
surprises may be in store when these new recruits
have become veterans and given the public a
sample of their wares. We do not even know all
the quiet work that is going on in our own islands.
I was surprised when, at one of the Royal Horti-
cultural Society's shows this spring, my young
friend, Mr. Guy Wilson of Knowhead, Brough-
shane, said, " I have got something to show you
of Irish Gardening, as his did this last Jniif !
But what of New Zealand ? Recording his im-
pressions in his celebrated tf)ur of the world, the
later Peter Barr is reported to have said in
Melbourne (Victoria) that " the folks in New
Zealand talked Daffodils morning, noon and night."
Had he timed his visit for September, there is
little doubt but that he would have seen, even then
(igoo), that they do more than talk. He would
have seen fine collections staged and keen com-
petition at the large shows ; and had he visited
the homes of many, he would have
seen larger or smaller quantities of
seedlings of varying ages. In 1897,
in the first year of the Dunedin
Show, there was a class for New
Zealand - raised seedlings, which
was won by Mr. Thomas Cranwell.
But the credit of being the first to
flower a home-raised bloom belongs
to Mr. Biggs, who in 1879 fertilised
gloriosa (Tazetta) with breviflos,
and as a result had two plants of
the tridymus type, which, flowering
first in 1886, still flourish in "lis
garden.
Probably the best-known names
in the two islands are those of
Professor Thomas of Auckland
and the late Mr. Mason of Welling-
ton in the North ; and of the Hon.
R. Heaton Rhodes and Mr, A. E.
Lowe of Otahuna, Christchurch,
of Mr. H. Hart of Lawrence, and
of Mr. Andrew Miller of Dunedin
in the South. These, however,
are by no means all. Just take
some of the names that I am
acquainted with : Messrs. Lennie,
Grindrod, J. G. Davies (the first
man to get an award — 1899 — for
a New Zealand-raised flower),
Wilson, Maclean, Haggitt, Find-
lay, Trevena, Gibson and Branth-
waite. Then imagine the goodly
number that I do not know, and
you will be able to form some esti-
mate of the extent to which this
fascinating hobby is being taken up
by those who dwell in " The Long
White Cloud." Joseph Jacob.
{To be continued.)
NARCISSUS MRS. D. V. WEST, A BEAUTIFUL NEW VARIETY RAIDED
IN AUSTRALIA. IT HAS BEEN FLOWERED IN THIS COUNTRY.
in the annexe," and when we got there, unearthed
from under the staging a narrow flower-box full
of his own seedlings ! Real beauties, too, some
of them were. For a certain number of years now
he has been a visitor at Birmingham and London,
and I had fully realised his fondness for the
Daffodil ; but I had no idea that all the time he
had been quietly working and crossing, and that
suddenly he- was going to burst out as a full-blown
hybridiser and raiser of seedlings ; for what else
can I call anyone whose exploits fill a whole page
MUEHLENBECKIA COM
PLEXA AS A WALL
PLANT.
We are accustomed to see the
slender, wiry stems and elegant
leafage of this charming little
trailer spreading prostrate over
the boulders of a rockery, or
sometimes hanging over the face
of a retaining wall ; but when
visiting the Suffolk town of Wood-
bridge, some beautiful examples were seen treated
as climbers, in front of houses by the roadside.
Some of the plants thus growing must be of a great
age, judging by the wall space covered and the
thickness of the main branches or stems. The
method of treatment is to nail the leading growths
to the wall and let the shorter side shoots hang free.
In the course of a season or two the plants assume
considerable proportions, and present a delightful
appearance quite distinct from any other
climber. Heather Bell.
402
THE GARDEN.
[August 8, 1914.
GARDENS OF
TO- DAY.
SHENDISH, KING'S
LANGLE Y.
A LARGE and beautiful rosary
/\ makes an imposing fea-
/ \ ture in Mr. T. N. Long-
/ % man's delightful gardens
•* ^ at Shendisb, King's
Langley, Herts, and it
was our good fortune a few weeks
ago to see the Roses in the height
of their beauty. The rosary is of
formal design and partly sheltered by
a belt of coniferous trees, which, how-
ever, are far enough away not to
exclude the sunshine so essential for
the well-being of Roses. In the
centre of this garden of Roses is a
large circular bed of Caroline Testout
in both bush and standard trees.
This grand old Rose still holds its own
as one of the best, if not the best, of
all the bedding Roses. Only one
colour is allowed in each bed,
and Lady Battersea, General Macarthur, Mme.
Ravary, Lyon, Hugh Dickson, Mrs. Kershaw
and Dean Hole are foremost among the varieties
occupying surrounding beds, each doing its utmost
to outrival its neighbour in producing a wealth of
ever-welcome blooms. There are other varieties,
too, worthy of special note among the thousand
Rose plants which make up this beautiful rosary,
and among them we see Richmond, Mme. Leon
Pain, La Tosca, Clara Watson, Warrior and
Antoine Rivoire. Perhaps La Tosca and Warrior
are two of the most profusely flowered. The
latter, with its deep Mulberry red flower-buds,
A VIEW IN THE ROSE GARDEN AT SHENDISH. ViOLAS ARE SUCCESSFULLY USED AS EDGINGS TO
THE ROSE BEDS.
is literally smothered in bloom, and both of them
may be relied upon to flower freely, however
unfavourable the season may be. One comer
of this Rose garden is devoted to single Roses,
all emanating from Ireland. Irish Elegance is
unquestionably the best of the bimch ; but Irish
Brightness, Irish Glory, Irish Modesty and Irish
Harmony each gives a glowing account of itself,
and all of them are much sought for in the decora-
tion of tables. Grass paths separate the Rose-
beds, and each bed is fringed with some free-
flowering Viola of blue or mauve shade, the varie-
ties most in evidence being Royal Blue, Mrs.
BROAD STONE STEPS LEADING FROM THE ROCK GARDEN.
Chichester, Maggie Mott, Mauve Queen, Magpie
and Kitty Bell. On the outside of the Rose garden,
Roses of more or less rambling habit, like Penzance
Briars, Sweet Briars, Grliss an Teplitz and Thenni-
dor (the last named a white rambler that flowers
with great freedom), lend pleasing touches of
colour that link up with the pleasure groimds
beyond. A little Dutch garden situated quite
close to the house is likewise well provided with
Roses. Here the Dwarf Polyanthas Mme. N.
Levavasseur and Maman Levavasseur, otherwise
known as Baby Crimson Rambler and Baby
Dorothy Perkins, are used with telling effect.
On another side of the house we
observe beds of China Roses even
more heavily laden with bloom than
the bedding Roses already referred
to. The two China Roses that
appear to be doing the best of
all are Fabvier (scarlet, white
centre, and borne on stiff stems) and
Mme. Eugene R^sal, with a brilliant
rose yellow base to the petals
which is very effective.
A Delphinium Border. — One of
the most delightful features of these
gardens at the present time is a
long and imposing border of stately
Delphiniums. Mr. G. Burrows, the
genial head-gardener, whose whole
interest is wrapped up in the
beautifying of these gardens, has
for some years made a point of
selecting his own Delphiniums from
seed and raising a number of plants
each year, with the result that he
now has a unique collection of
unnamed varieties under his care.
Pale blue varieties seem to predomi-
nate, although deep purple and
reddish purple shades are well
represented. Mr. Burrows' method
of culture is briefly as follows :
Seed is sown at the end of July in
boxes and placed in frames. In
the spring the seedlings are planted
out in a border, with the result
that they flower in the following
August 8, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
403
September. The best varieties are then selected
and planted in their permanent positions in the
border, where they may be expected to flower
at their very best in the third year. In the spring
the growths on established plants are thinned to
five or six to avoid overcrowding. The border
is edged with Nepeta Mussinii, an extraordinary
floriferous plant, making dense, prostrate tufts
with numerous spikes of little lavender flowers.
This valuable subject is extensively used at
Shendish as an edging to the flower borders.
In addition to the Delphiniums, there is another
blue border devoted to Veronica spicata, the
plants being so well grown that they were not at
first recognised. This border is also
edged with Nepeta Mussinii, the
free-flowering Catmint, making a
charming study in blue.
Rock and Water Garden.— The
rock garden, situated on the site of
an old chalk pit, is built on a slope
facing west, and beyond is a beau-
tiful glade and a dell or wild garden
where Rosa Brunonii (a S5monym
of R. moschata), a climber with
yellowish white flowers, is natu-
ralised, with most pleasing effect.
Geranium Endressii, a P3nrenean
species with pale rosy flowers, is
also naturalised in the dell, where
it is associated with hardy Ferns.
Millstone grit and Derbyshire lime-
stone have both been used in the
making of the rock garden.
Stepping-stones are placed here
and there in grass paths, and these
are quite in keeping with the stone
steps, which, by the by, are fur-
nished with low-growing alpines,
such as Campanula pulla, C. pusilla
in variety, Arenaria, Erinus alpinus,
Thymus Serpyllum, Dianthus
csesius and Sedums in variety. A
wealth of colour was created by
Campanula mural is. Rock Roses
and innumerable varieties of alpine
Pinks and Phloxes at the time of
our visit. The shrubby Ozotham-
nus rosmarinifolius is used to
good effect in the background, its
pleasing white flowers resembling
those of a shrubby Spiraea. Viola
gracilis is also very showy, while
the patches of Gentiana vema and
G. acaulis tell of the superb effect
made earlier in the season.
The water garden, backed by
stately Oaks and situated on a
slope to the west, is happily
conceived and planted with good taste. The
Japanese Iris Kaempferi is grown with marked
success, and the same may be said of the Siberian
Flag, or Iris sibirica. English and Spanish Irises also
flower well, but with the latter it is found neces-
sary to plant annually. The Goat's-beard (Spiraea
Aruncus) and the Royal Fern (Osmunda regalis)
make noble pictures on the banks.
A notable feature of the gardens at Shendish
IS seen in the magnificent sweep of lawn, including
one of the finest bowling greens in the county.
The house and gardens are situated at the top of
a prominent hill 480 feet above sea-level.
At the foot of the hill nestles a pretty little village
with its own church and village green, and the
model cottages are the homes of farm and garden
hands on the Shendish estate.
MAKING NEW STRAW-
BERRY-BEDS.
w
ITH the coming of August the
time for preparing new Straw-
berry-beds arrives. There is
perhaps no fruit more easily
grown or one which so gratefully
repays a little extra care in
cultivation. Its shallow-rooting nature renders
it particularly liable to suffer from drought, and i
tended, a small crop may be expected the following
year. The advantages of planting the small
pot plants offered by nurserymen are many,
and for those to whom time ■ is a consideration
they amply justify the extra cost. It is always
the earliest runners (and therefore the strongest)
that are laid into pots, and, furthermore,
the roots suffer little or no disturbance on
replanting.
In the matter of soU, the Strawberry is most
accommodating. It may be found in the heaviest
clay and in the lightest sands. Naturally, a
the preparation of the soil must therefore be carried [ rich loam is most suitable ; but, failing this,
out with this fact in mind. If the ground can 1 much can be done in improving dry soils as
before described and in lightening
heavy soils by lime or mortar
rubbish, always remembering
that the most important point is
the water supply. The distances
for planting vary much, some pre-
ferring to plant 3 feet apart in the
row and between the row, others
making two rows at 2 feet apart
and having a wider space for a path
between every two rows. Where
several varieties are grown to-
gether, it is a convenience to make
the rows run the shortest way of
the bed, so that each variety is in
small blocks rather than long lines.
The plants, when safely through
the danger of drought, should
need no further attention until
the spring, except in so far as a
supplemental supply of manure
is concerned. A liberal use of
stable manure, with an addition
of wood-ashes to supply the
necessary potash, will provide all
that is necessary. If, however,
manure is not available, spent
Hops, leaf-mould or rape dust
shoiild be given with lib. of
sulphate of potash for each 40
square yards in the winter, and
in the spring 81b. of super-
phosphate and 2lb. of sulphate
of ammonia for the same area.
Having briefly dealt with cultural
matters, it remains to suggest a
few varieties which will give a
good succession of fruit.
The earliest fruit in most
gardens is Vicomtesse H. de
Thury, which, unlike most early
fruits, possesses an excellent
flavour. For the second earliest
variety Royal Sovereign still
stands unbeaten, and Presi-
therefore be trenched 2 feet deep and well-rotted i dent is quite one of the best varieties
manure incorporated in the soil, this will aid | for the main crop. It has some of the old
greatly in conserving the moisture. In these j " pine " flavour. A little later on there
A WATER GARDEN SCENE IN THE GARDENS AT SHENDISH,
king's LANGLEY.
days of motor-cars it is well perhaps to add
that, failing stable manure, leaf-mould or
spent Hops will serve the same purpose, but
these will need to be supplemented with chemical
manures.
Any garden which has been well cultivated and
manured for vegetable crops will not need this
special attention, and in this case the manure
will be better added at a later period. The great
advantage of August planting is that the young
rurmers may make good growth before the
winter, and therefore no care should be spared
to keep them well watered should a dry time
comes The Bedford, a new-comer which has made
its way to the front, as it possesses good size,
first-class flavour, and is a constant bearer. In
season it will follow the first two named. Of the
later sorts Givon's Late Prolific is quite the finest.
The vigorous foliage keeps the plant in good
health, and the crop is produced over a very long
season. • This list would provide a good selection
for gardens of medium size, and are of varieties
which can be relied on without any very special
cultural attention. For those who regard flavour
of much more consequence than production of
fruit and vigorous growth, British Queen and
follow their planting. From good runners thus ' Dr. Hogg cannot be omitted. Among the newer
404
THE GARDEN.
[August 8, 1914-
sorts Hibberd's George V. is one of remark-
able promise, coming about two weeks later
than Sir Joseph, Paxton, and produces a large
number of fine scarlet fruits of firm flesh and
excellent flavour. This is without doubt a variety
of the future, and before long will be found in all
gardens.
I cannot conclude without recommending once
again the valuable service rendered by the autumnal
Strawberries, of which so many have been produced
within recent years. The two varieties which
have shown the greatest promise are the
Mer\'eille de France and St. Fiacre autumnals.
Both of these may be relied on to give a
crop of fruit of first-class flavour from the
middle of August till September, and in
sheltered positions even later. A comer should
be found for these in every garden, as they
We generally sow the seed the last week in
.\ugust, and pot oft the resultant seedlings as
soon as possible in 2j-inch pots, placing them
in a light position, yet not in the direct rays of
the sun. A frame outdoors having a northern
aspect is excellent. As soon as growth has become
active, pinch out the growing point and repeat it
later, but the second time pinch all the laterals
as well. This will lay the foundation of a strong,
well-branched plant. Before the plants get root-
bound in the pots (and this must never be allowed
to occur, as the plants may as well be thrown
out as allowed to flower), a further move into
5-inch or 6-inch pots must be given. The 5-inch
pots are perhaps the best, as it is not wise to over-
pot them. They are impatient of careless watering
and drought, either extreme proving fatal to one's
hopes. Steadily keep to the pinching and repotting.
A SCHIZANTHUS PLANT GROWN FROM SEED AS DESCRIBED ON THIS PAGE.
provide a welcome addition to the fruits of
the holiday season. E. A. Bunyard.
SCHIZANTHUS AS A
S P R I N G-F L OWE RING
PLANT.
THE value of Schizanthus as a sprinp-
flowering plant cannot be over-
estimated, and a good batch of this
popular yet dainty and light flower
is more appreciated at that season of
the year than at any other time. Not
only do the plants flower more profusely, but the
absence of that scorching sun which is experienced
later on in the year allows them to retain their
beauty and freshness for a considerable period.
A conservatory in which the main subjects are
Primulas of sorts, herbaceous Calceolarias and
Schizanthus wisetonensis is a sight to remember.
never hastening the plants in any way, and by the
middle of October they may be potted into the final
or flowering pots. These mAy be either 8 inches
or 9 inches in diameter, according to the grower's
discretion or convenience. The soil for this
potting is very important, and should not contain
too much humus and no artificial manure, unless
it is a little bone-meal. Good strong loam should
comprise three parts of the mixture, the other
part consisting of wood-ashes, lime rubble and
leaf-mould. Firmly press the soil around the
plants as the work proceeds, and leave quite
3 inches for top-dressing if in a g-inch pot, and a
little less if in an 8-inch pot.
Stake the plants nicely, and if the weather is
still open they may be left in the frame. I have
known them to experience 5° or 6° of frost and
take not the slightest harm. However, it is
always the best plan when they have got so far
on to take no chances ; but never give them
more heat than is absolutely necessary to be
safe. As soon as they start growing again.
they may be top-dressed with the same mixture
as advised for the final potting. They may
then be given a little diluted cow-manure,
gradually increasing the strength of it until
the flowers look ready for opening, when it
is best to cease. They may then be moved to
the conservatorj'. Charles Trott.
Ewood Hall Gardens, Mytholmroyd, Yorkshire.
NEW AND RARE PLANTS.
Petunia Purple King. — A very handsome
doub'.e-flowered variety, colour imperial purple,
of a rich intense shade. Very striking and distinct.
From Mr. \. E. Billinghurst, Broadway, Croydon.
Erica vagans St. Keverne. — .\ very charming
bright rose pink flowered variety of a beautiful
plant. When sufficiently plentiful it will be sure
of a warm welcome. Shown by Mr. P. D. Williams,
Lanarth, St. Keverne, Coniwall.
Carnation Mrs. F. G. Bealing. — .\ salmon pink
coloured border variety, showing considerable
freedom of flowering. From Mr. F. G. Bealing,
Bassett, Southampton.
Laelio-Cattleya Miss Louisa Fowler (Lslio-
Cattleya callistoglossa x Cattleya granuleea). —
Sepals and petals mauve, lip rich purple. A very
beautiful variety. From Mr. J. Gurney Fowler,
Pcmbury, Kent.
Cattleya hardyana rubens. — Large purple lip,
with rosy mauve sepals and petals. From Mr. J.
Gumey Fowler.
Oncidium Leopoldii Fairlawn Variety.— The
predominating colour is mauve, shaded with green,
the inflorescence bearing a considerable ntunber
of flowers. Shown by Mr. H. Goodson, Fairlawn,
Putney.
Cattleya Astron (Cattleya Dusseldorfi variety
Undine x C. Harrisoni alba). — A very charming
white form, the widely winged sepals and petals
and lip slightly touched with yellow in the throat,
making up a really beautiful flower. Shown by
Baron Bruno Schroder, Englefield Green.
The foregoing were shown before the Royal
Horticultural Society on the 28th ult., and eich
received an award of merit.
Gladiolus Loveliness. — \ delightful mingling
of pale pink and cream, with yellow shading, in a
flower of fine texture and splendid proportions.
Some grand spikes were shown. First-class
certificate.
Gladiolus Fire King. — K magnificent variety of
flame scarlet colour. The spike is very fine.
Gladiolus Armagnae. — This splendid variety is
ci)'.our<;d crimson, with a mnspicuous white throat.
Gladiolus Chicago White. — A handsome white
variety, with rfsy markiiif;s in the throat.
Gladiolus Marie Therese. — A nearly pure white
variety of handsome proportions, marked with
rose on a straw-coloured blotch. The foregoing
five varieties were exhibited by Messrs. Atkinson
and Staffer, Locksheath, near Southampton.
Gladiolus Abeliard. — A handsome spike of soft
pink flowers, lightly striped a deeper shade of the
same colour.
Gladiolus White Giant. — The spikes were of
splendid proportions, the handsome, pure white
flowers well meriting the description of *' Giant."
It is one of the finest we remember to have seen.
These two were exhibited by Messrs. Kelway and
Son, Langport, Somerset.
Each of these Gladioli received an award of
merit from the National Gladiolus Society on the
28th ult.
August 8, 1914-]
THE GARDEN.
405
GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.
HOW TO FORCE FREESIAS, HYACINTHS AND NARCISSI
T
I HE amateur cultivator, especially the
beginner, derives a great deal of
pleasure from the work of forcing
bulbs in pots. Many bulbs are
confined to a small space, and as every
stage of growth is watched by the
cultivator, the latter becomes deeply interested
DIAGRAM SHOWING THE RIGHT AND WRONG
METHODS OF POTTING FREESIAS.
in the welfare of the plants and likes to learn
how he can improve them from year to year.
Now. all this is very interesting if the bulbs grown
are good ones. If they are unripe, small, soft and
do not contain an embryo flower-stem or only a
very weakly one, then the efforts of the cultivator,
however well they may be directed, will not
be of much avail. The best bulbs are not
always the largest ; the finest are those which
are very firm and thoroughly matured. When
selecting the bulbs, therefore, the cultivator
should be sure that they are heavy for their size
and quite firm near the crown.
Composts for Pot Bulbs. — In every case a
fairly light compost is the most suitable, and
porosity of the soil is very essential to success.
Old loam is better than new, so that the cultivator
should give preference to the former. If there is
only a small quantity of old loam available, then
some old potting soil — that which has not been
in pots long enough to become sour — should be
mixed with the portion of new loam to be used.
Leaf-soil is a valuable ingredient. It may be
used at the rate of one-third of leaf-soil to two-
thirds of loam, and sand sufficient to ensure
the sound drainage of all soil placed in the pots.
If manure is added, it must be well decayed and
slightly dried in an open shed, then rubbed
through an inch-mesh sieve. Artificial manures
must not be added, as all necessary feeding can
be done after the pots are taken from the
plunging material.
Freesias. — There must be a careful grading
of all Freesia bulbs before any are potted. If
the small ones are potted indiscriminately with
the large, then there will be fewer blooms in each
pot, and the small bulbs will not improve much
in size. No. i in Fig. A shows the smallest bulb.
Such must be potted separately, as few of them
will produce flower-stems. No. 2 bulbs must also
be potted separately. A number of them will
bear flowers, and these will be useful for cutting
to place in vases. No. 3, the largest bulbs, should
be potted separately. These will produce the
finest flowers and look remarkably well in the
greenhouse or conservatory. In every case the
bulbs should be put in about an inch apart,
whether large or small or medium, and then all
have freedom to grow and develop fully during
the season. Having well drained the pots —
which may vary in size from 3 J inches to 6 J inches —
put in a small portion of rough compost, then
some finer, and, having slightly firmed it, place
the bulbs as shown at No, 4, burying them in the
proportion depicted. It is wrong to pot them
as shown at No. 5. When potted, give water
freely through a ftne-rosed watering can and
plunge the pots in sand, old ashes or common soil
as shown at No. 6, not covering the surface of
the soil and the rims of the pots. They may be
arranged in a dry place in the open air, or in a
cold frame from which the glass lights must be
removed in dry weather until the leaves appear
through the soil.
Roman Hyacinths. — No. i. Fig. B, shows a
Roman Hyacinth bulb. Five good bulbs may
be grown in a 6J-inch flower-pot and four in a
5-inch one. No. 2 shows the correct way to pot
these bulbs. Having loosely filled the pot level
with the rim with the prepared compost, scatter
some sand on the surface and then press the
bulbs down as shown in the sketch. Add any
more compost as may be found necessary to
must be removed from the covering material
and placed in a cold frame, there to remain for
several weeks. The frame must be covered with
mats for at least a week, and then full light should
be gradually admitted. The same course must
be adopted in regard to the ventilating of the
frame ; little at first, then abimdance. From
the frame the pots can be taken to the greenhouse
or other structure in which a warmer temperature
can be maintained, and flowers obtained to form
a succession in due time. G. G.
HOW TO POT ROMAN HYACINTHS FOR
FORCING.
complete the potting. Another way is to three
parts fill the pots with compost and make it
firm ; then put in the bulbs and surround them
with soil, leaving, as sho\vn, the crowns of the
biilbs above the surface. Water the soil freely ;
then put empty inverted and smaller pots on as
shown at No. 3. Cover all with old ashes or
sand until the new growth is nearly two inches
high.
Narcissi. — No. r. Fig. C, shows a Narcissus
bulb, and No. 2 the correct way to pot them.
The new growth of well-buried bulbs is always
stronger than that of those so buried as to leave
the crowns above the soil ; but if the bulbs are
very large and many flowers are required in each
pot, then, in order to get in more bulbs, the latter
may be potted higher up at the widest part of
the pot, so as to leave the crowns of the bulbs just
visible. Water these bulbs, too, and then bury
them imder the ashes, as shown at No. 3,
in any position outside if the base is well
drained.
When New Growth Begins. — When the new
shoots have commenced to grow freely, the pots
THE CULTIVATION OF ENDIVE.
Very few cultivators grow fine plants of Endive.
If matured where sown, the plants must be
thinned early and freely, as overcrowded plants
never give satisfaction. When transplanted, the
Endive must be grown in rich but firm soil. If
a succession of plants is required over a long
period, the following treatment will prove helpful :
At least two sowings should be made, one early
in July and another early in August. The plants
resulting from the latter sowing of seeds will be
useful for lifting and replanting in a frame. If
possible, avoid growing Endive on any ground
recently occupied by Cabbages or Cauliflowers,
as the latter crops impoverish the soil too much
for the Endive to do well. Ground from which
Peas, Beans or Turnips have been cleared will
be quite suitable. Dig up such soil, put in a
liberal quantity of well-rotted manure, break up
all large lumps, and tread down the soil again
while in a fairly dry state ; then put out the young
Endive plants 18 inches apart each way and
water them. The plants spread considerably, and
when fully grown will almost cover the whole
space. Planted nearer than stated would cause
inconvenience, as the workman could not get
between the plants to attend to them. All early
plants may be blanched by gathering up the
outside leaves at midday, when every leaf is
quite dry, and loosely tying them in the same
way as Lettuces are tied. The later plants
should be carefully lifted and replanted in October
in a cold frame rather close together and in raised
soil. The outside leaves will gradually decay. As
they do so, remove them. Ventilate very freely
in fine weather, and so guard against excessive
moisture ; then a nice supply of fresh and well-
blanched hearts may be secured. Shamrock.
"/'///ii/^i/z/wh/mmi.
THIS DIAGRAM ILLUSTRATES THE POTTING
OF DAFFODIL BULBS FOR FORCING.
406
THE GARDEN.
[August 8, 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
Early Muscat Vines from which the crop has
been gathered should receive careful attention with
regard to insect life. If red spider or thrip is
present on the foliage, some means must be adopted
to rid the Vines of these destructive pests, or the
prospect of a satisfactory crop next season will be
much reduced. If the borders are well drained
and the roots healthy, liberal supplies of clear, soft
water should be given, and the foliage syringed
daily with a view to keeping it quite free from
insects.
Late Muscat Grapes will require moderate
heat in the pipes at night to ensure a buoyant
atmosphere, if the berries are to be quite ripe and
well coloured by the end of September. While
the berries are swelling, there must be no lack of
moisture at the roots ; and when water is necessary,
a bright day should be chosen for applying it, so
that the ventilators may be open during the day
and partly so at night. Do not allow the growths
to become overcrowded, but, at the same time,
sufficient young shoots must be retained to keep
the roots constantly active. A night temperature
of 75° should be maintained.
Pot Strawberries. — The early batch of plants
should be potted with as little delay as possible.
The soil may consist of three parts turfy loam and
the remainder of decayed manure, and this sho^lld
be thoroughly mixed a few days previous to use.
Make the soil firm about the roots, but do not break
the small balls of soil in which the young plants
have been growing.
Plants Under Glass.
Zonal Pelargoniums. — Plants for winter flower-
ing should now be established in 6-inch or 7-inch
pots, and must be groivn in the open quarters
fully exposed to the sun-, and secured against rough
wind. Keep the plants within bounds by pinching
leading shoots as it becomes necessary. No great
quantity of manure need be applied at present,
but soot-water may be given about once weekly
to keep the foliage in a healthy condition.
Crotons. — Well-coloured tops may still be
inserted in the propagating frame with a view to
raising young plants for decoration during the
winter. These are very useful for small groups, for
filling large vases, or for table decoration. When
sufficiently rooted they may be potted into 4-inch
pots and grown in an exposed position in the stove
- in order to increase their coloiu:.
Pot Roses which are growing in the open must
not be neglected, but should receive daily attention
to watering and cleaning the pots. Give frequent
applications of soot-water or liquid manure from
the farmyard.
Humea elegans. — Young plants should now be
potted into 4-inch pots and placed in a cold frame.
Water carefully until they become established,
and open the ventilators early each morning, but
avoid draughts.
Tlie Flower Garden.
Pansies. — The seedlings should now be ready
for transplanting in a well-prepared border, and
may afterwards be transferred to their flowering
quarters. Keep the young plants well supplied
with moisture at the roots, and stir the soil
frequently with a Dutch hoe.
Belladonna Lilies growing under a south wall
should be given a good soaking of clear water, and
the soil lightly stirred with the point of a small
fork. This will give vigour to the plants and enable
them to pusli up their flower-spikes.
Hollyhocks. — ^To obtain the best results with
these, the seeds should be sown now in pans
of sandy soil and placed in a cool, shady pit until
germination takes place. Prick out the young
plants as soon as large enough to handle, and
ultimately pot into 5-inch pots and grow as hardily
as possible. By this means good strong plants
should be available in the begiiming of April.
The Rock Garden.
Taking Cuttings. — August is the best month
for takmg cuttings of Phlox, Dianthus and
numerous plants for the rock garden. The best
method is to insert the cuttings in small pots or in
pans of sandy soil, and place them in a close, cold
frame facing north.
Shrubs Suitable for Rock Gardens which may
be propagated during the autumn should include
Hypericum olympicum, H. patulum, H. Nummu-
larium, Cistuses in variety (these require a warm,
dry soil, with a certain amount of shelter), Olearia
stellulata. O. Haastii, Cotoneaster humifusa,
Daphne Cneorum, D. blagayana. Genista tinctoria,
G. anglica and G. sagittalis.
The Kitchen Garden.
Cucumbers. — If winter Cucumbers are desired,
there must be no delay in so%ving the seeds, which
should be placed in small, clean pots over a gentle
hot-bed imtil germmatiou takes place, after which
the pots may be raised to within r foot of the roof
glass, in order to keep them stocky. When they
have made a leaf or two they may be potted into
5-inch pots, and shoiild be ready for planting about
the third week in August. Another sowing may
be made a month later for fruiting in the new year,
during the first three months of which Cucumbers are
sometimes difficult to grow in consequence of dull
weather.
Late Peas. — The latest batch of Peas should
now be growing freely, and, if dry weather continues,
they will require a good supply of water at the roots.
A mulching of farmyard manm-e should also be
applied.
Carrots. — It is not too late to make a sowing
of stump-rooted Carrots for use during the winter,
or for leaving in the ground until the spring.
Young Carrots which are just showing through the
surface should be thinned as soon as possible, the
ground broken between the rows, and a light dusting
of soot given.
Onions. — A sowmg of Golden Rocca and .Ailsa
Craig should be made about the middle of
August. The bed must be deeply dug, but no
fresh manure applied. When the soil has become
dry, the bed may be trodden evenly and raked
level. The drills should be at least r5 inches
apart. A dressing of soot may be given with
advantage previous to digging the ground.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Cauliflowers. — There is usually a superabundant
supply at this season, and it will be wise to go
over the plot frequently and bend over a few
leaves to protect the heads from the sun's rays.
Later plants will be greatly benefited by a liberal
application of liquid manure. Should this not be
available, nitrate of soda will be a good substitute,
an ounce to a gallon of water. Nitrate of soda
is particularly distasteful to grubs.
Tomatoes. — A sowing may be made now to
produce a crop of fruit in the winter, and as these
plants have to pass through the dullest time of the
year, they must be grown as sturdily as possible.
Sow the seed thinly in pans, or, if only a few plants
are grown, it would be as well to sow one or two
seeds in small pots, leaving only the strongest
seedlings. As soon as they have come through,
place them on a shelf close to the roof glass,
shifting them later into 6-inch pots.
Cucumbers. — To have asupply during the winter
months, sow a few seeds in pots now, and make
another sowing in about a month's time. Place
them in the propagating-case, and if a suitable
house is not ready for them, they will require
to be potted on. Great care must be taken
with this batch, as during cold autumn days
mildew very often makes its appearance.
Lettuces. — A small sowing of some of the
winter Lettuce can now be made, but only
the hardiest sorts, such as Stanstead Park, should
be grown. Make another sowing towards the
end of the month, which in most cases ought
to meet the demand.
The Flower Garden.
Bedding Geraniums.— A start must now be
made to get a supply of cuttings for next
year's requirements. As the season's display
is by no means over, great care must be taken
not to disfigure the plants. Secure a number
of each variety now, going over the plants again
in about ten days' time, and if carefully done,
these cuttings will scarcely be missed.
Heucheras. — Like the foregoing, these graceful 1
perennials are easily increased by cuttings. As
soon as the flowers are over, cut down the spike
and secure a batch of cuttings, which will root
readily in a cold frame. It is a good plan to plant
out a number on a side border for cutting, as
nothing is more graceful when arranged in vases.
H. brizoides and H. gracillima are possibly the best
varieties for this purpose. A
Rock Garden. — As the season advances, this W
interesting part of the flower garden will require
almost daily attention in the way of cutting off
faded flowers and watering such as seem to be
suffering. The cutting away of the faded flowers
of Saxifrages gives them a new lease of life.
Plants Under Glass.
Lachenalias. — These useful greenhouse plants
should now receive attention. Shake the corms from
the old soil and pot them up in a mixture of loam,
leaf-soil and sand. But perhaps the most effective
way in which to grow them is in wire baskets
suspended from the roof. For a time after potting
keep the plants perfectly cool, and careful watering
will be required until' growth commences. No
artificial feeding should be given until the flower-
spikes appear.
Chrysanthemums. — As the pots are now
becoming filled with roots, the plants must be
regularly fed with one or other of the many manures
now on the market. At the same time liquid
manure from the farmyard and soot-water must not
be despised. The taking of the bud of the single-
stemmed varieties is a most important operation,
and had better be left to the man in charge. In
an ordinary way a start may be made now by
taking them as they appear.
Marguerite Mrs. F. Sanders. — Cuttings of
this useful greenhouse plant should now be secured
for supplying flowering plants for the early summer.
They will root best in a warm pit where they
can be shaded for a time, after which they must
be grown on in a cool, airy house. Pinch out the
centres when they have made 4 inches or 5 inches
of growth, to ensure a bushy habit.
Mignonette. — To have a batch of this fragrant
plant in bloom in the winter and early spring,
the seed must be sown without delay. To save
disappointment it will be as well to sow three or
four seeds in a small pot and retain the strongest
seedling. Keep them in a cold frame well
exposed to the light, and nip out the blooms
as they appear until the plants are large enough.
Preparing Frames and Pits for Cuttings.—
As the season is now at hand when a start must
be made for securing cuttings that require
protection, the pits and frames should be got
ready for the various occupants. Very often
cuttings are put into frames where the soil has
possibly not been renewed for years. This is a
great mistake, as it will well repay to renew the
soil. Have the lights and glass thoroughly J
washed on both sides. I
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Raspberries. — Most of the fruit will now have
been gathered, and, if time permits, have the old
canes cut out at once, and leave only sufficient
of the young ones to provide next year's supply.
These had better be tied up loosely in the meantime
to enable the canes to be thoroughly hardened.
They would also be benefited by having the old J
mulching taken off and replaced with some fresh I
manure from the farmyard. 1
Plums. — These seem to be badly infested
with aphides this season, and although there have
been several heavy tliunderstorms, they have
failed to completely dislodge them. In such cases
it will be well to have badly infested trees syringed
with Quassia extract, and afterwards with clear
water.
Cherries. — The fruit will now have been picked, J
at least of the sweet varieties, and the trees should I
receive attention. Lay in any shoots required ■
for furnishing the wall, and if the soil is at all dry,
give a good soaking of water to the roots. Perhaps
Cherries suffer more from lack of moisture at the
roots than almost any other wall tree.
John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopetoun Gardois, South Queettsjerry, N.B.
August 8, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
407
FRAGRANCE IN ROSES.
IN his interesting article on " Rose-
growing in Town Gardens," page 329,
issue June 27, Mr. Goddard cliaUenges
criticism when he writes that the pleasure
derived from the sight of a beautiful Rose
is " intellectual," while that given by the
scent of a Rose is " purely sensual." Is memory
purely sensual ? Surely not. Surely it is memory
that gives us our individuality, and few will deny
that a waft of fragrance will recall the past more
vividly than any vision can do. Smell, as Mr.
E. F. Benson has well said, is the most
" memoristic " of the senses ; it certainly is the
most emotional, and I should be sorry to think
that intellect and emotion are necessarily antago-
nistic. Poetry has been described as intellect
touched by emotion, and if I might borrow an idea
from this phrase, I should say that a beautiful
Rose without scent stands in the same relation
to one with the added charm of fragrance that
prose does to poetry. Like poetry, the fragrance
of a flower may waken in us something that is
far indeed from being purely sensual.
There is really no reason to depreciate one sense
in favour of another ; indeed, the senses are so
closely allied that it is almost impossible to
dissociate them from one another. If we see a
lovely La France or Horace Vemet Rose, we un-
consciously associate it with the delicious fragrance
we know that it possesses ; and so the mere sight
of a flower we know to be fragrant gives us greater
pleasure than the scentless perfection of a Baroness
Rothschild or a Frau Karl Druschki can do. In
saying this I do not suggest that we should never
grow a Rose that is without scent. Some Roses —
Rosa sinica Anemone, for instance — are so pleasing
to the eye that we cannot forego the pleasure they
give one of our senses merely because they do not
gratify another ; but I would plead for the inclusion
in our gardens of such Roses as The Tuscany,
Maiden's Blush and the old Damask, which,
though lacking in size and form, are richly endowed
with fragrance.
It is not necessary always to look back to past
times for a sweet-scented Rose ; many are still
being produced. Evangeline, a single wichuraiana
with the pink of the wild Rose, brought out in
1906, is delightfully fragrant, and in common with
Gruss an Zabem, a snow white multiflora, has the
power of scenting the air around it. In fact,
the wichuraianas as a class are much more fragrant
than were the old Ayrshires. They have got a
bad name in this respect because two of the most
popular, Dorothy Perkins and Hiawatha, are
practically scentless ; but Franpois Juranville,
coppery pink, and Paul Transon, a rampant
grower, both have a most refreshing scent of
Apples ; the bright crimson Excelsa has also the
fruity type of smell, and the large-flowered pale
pink Gerbe Rose, besides having beautiful thorn-
less green shoots and glorious foliage, is one of
the sweetest of all Roses. The graceful pale
pink Debutante and the new perpetual pure white
Sylvia are well worth growing on account of their
fragrance.
No doubt many of the lovely Hybrid Teas are
not nearly so sweet as were the old summer Roses,
such as Maiden's Blush and the Cabbage Rose,
nor have they the deliciously refreshing fragrance
of such Hybrid Perpetuals as Victor Hugo, Horace
Vemet and many another veteran ; but those
rosarians who are on the look-out for fragrance,
who also want the bright colour, pointed form
and perpetual habit of the Hybrid Teas, can find
these qualities combined in Richmond, Liberty,
Andr6 Gamon, KUlamey and others, while Lady
Alice Stanley and Grand Due Adolphe de Luxem-
bourg have the brilliant colouring and sweet scent,
but not the pointed form.
One of the most beautiful of the new Roses in the
Seedling Tent at the National Rose Society's Show
on July 7 was Mrs. George Norwood. This variety
is of a soft shade of pink, of fine form, with high
pointed centre, and, to crown all, a quite remarkable
fragrance. It was also shown among the new Roses
competing at Holland House for the Clay Cup,
to be given to the Rose possessing in the most
marked degree the true old Rose scent, and was
the only one in this class which combined lovely
form and colour with exquisite fragrance. The
successful Rose was Queen of Fragrance, a wide
open, flat flower with a blush pink centre, brought
out by Messrs. W. Paul and Son of Waltham Cross.
The competition was an interesting one, though
the specimens in the class when I saw them on
the second day looked so tired and jaded that there
was little to recommend them except their
fragrance. The variety which apparently had the
power of retaining this quality the longest was one
of Messrs. Alexander Dickson's called Mrs. Bryce
Allen. It had, as seen that day, dull pink flowers
of the old-fashioned flat shape, but its scent was
most delicious.
The judges of the new seedling Poses at the
National Rose Society's Show were instructed to
consider the fragrance as well as the form and
colour of the Roses before them. This will doubtless
encourage the hybridists to try to propagate from
those varieties which are most sweetly scented,
and so to retain the real old Rose smell as
one of the principal features of the Queen "f
Flowers. White Lady.
[We suggest that the judges of new Roses for
fragrance should be blindfolded. Perhaps " White
Lady " will get some friend to test fragrance when
blindfolded and note the interesting results. The
same flower has been declared less or more fragrant
when given to a blindfolded judge the second time 1
—Ed.]
WORK AMONG THE
AURICULAS.
THE Auriculas will now begin their
second season of growth, and if we
are to secure a good truss of bloom
next April we must encourage the
plants in every way possible, for
what is known as " a '^ood autumn
growth " is most essential. The subject of this
series of articles ought not to be coddled in the
least, and the treatment given now and during
the autumn months will play an important part
later on, especially when we come to the most
critical months of November and December.
Full exposure to the air should be the rule, except-
ing, of course, during heavy rain which is likely to
make them very wet at the roots. Green fly
must be kept down and all dead leaves should
be removed, while the usual precaution ought
to be taken in regard to the watering pot.
Offsets. — These are taken ofl twice a year, viz.,
in February and August. I always try to make
a general examination of the plants during this
month, and take off any of the offsets that are
large enough for removal. If the variety is a
fairly common one and no more stock is required.
they are thrown away or planted out in a small
nursery bed, where they remain until they arc
fit to be removed to the rock garden or ordinary
flower border. With a choice kind the reverse
is the order ; each offset is placed in a pot and
carefully tended, so as to bring it to the flowering
stage in the shortest possible time. Good varieties
sometimes produce offsets very slowly, and this fact
should be borne in mind when purchasing some
of the best in the market. As a rule it takes an offset
from eighteen months to two years to attain full
size, while seedlings take about the same time.
Some of the offsets that were potted up in February
may require a move on, and where such is the case
the present is a suitable time to carry it out,
using the same kind of soil as advised in the article
that appeared in May. Each plant should be
examined, and if the surface soil has become hard
or sour, it can be pricked up with a pointed stick.
This not only gives them a much neater appearance,
but is also of considerable benefit to the plants.
The Brown Grub. — Happily, this pest does not
often make its appearance where the best loam
and clean leaf-mould are employed as a rooting
medium. It usually attacks the plants in early
autumn, and, if any are looking sickly, this may
be the cause, or perhaps the tap-root has begun
to decay. The soil must be shaken from the roots
and the stem exposed, when it can easily be ascer
tained what is doing the mischief. Before repotting
in fresh soil, and in all probability a smaller
receptacle, the stem must be cut back if decayed and
the grub destroyed, or it will bore its way right
through the centre of the plant. There is no need to
repeat the details given in past months, but I
strongly advise the grower to treat the Auricula as a
plant, and by using ordinary common sense and
striking what is popularly known as the happy
medium in cultural matters, the results will be most
satisfactory. T. W. Briscoe.
ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND AYiSVlERS.— The Editor endeavours to
make The Garden helpful to all readers w?io desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
tvith that object makes a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20. Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden. London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or 7noss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher.
FLOWER GARDEN.
IRIS (E. M. S.). — The Iris is I. ochroleuca, and is also
known as I. gigantea. It is a proverbially shy-flowering
plant, and, resenting much root disturbance, requires age
before it flowers at all. It is occasionally seen under the most
opposite conditions of dry and wet, sun and shade, and
behaving much alike in all. Some of the finest examples
we have seen, however, were in light, rich loam in full
sun. The plants reached 6 feet high and flowered
splendidly, after which for three years they took a rest
and gave but few flowers. All you can do is to encourage
good growth by early summer watering and a free use
of liquid manure or guano-wat«r. It is a plant for experi-
ment, and one for which it is difficult to lay down hard-
and-fast rules.
ROSES WITH BAD CENTRES (Reigate).— There are
very many crippled flowers this season, owing, we believe,
to the late frosts and altogether bad weather in many
parts. It is unwise in such a season to be in a hurry
as to disbudding, as we are apt to retain the central bud,
which is too often damaged. As you gave the Roses
the various ingredients you name in the winter and early
spring, you have somewhat overdone it in giving the other
408
THE GARDEN.
[August 8. 1914,
articles alternately once a week. Had you kept the cow-
manure in liquid form, you would probably have had
better quality blooms. A dozen good reliable exhibition
Roses, avoiding white and cream, are Gloire de Chedane
Guinoisseau, Avoca, Margaret, Lady Ashtown, Mrs.
"Wallace Rowe, Hugh Dickson, Slarquise Litta, Mrs. Walter
Easlea, Lohengrin, Lady Ursula, Exquisite and Ulrich
Brunner.
BEGONIA FLOWERS DROPPING (H. E.).—It is diffi-
cult to assign any reason for the flowers of your Begonias
dropping in the way described. Tlie plants may have
suffered from drought, a likely cause of the trouble, for
hot, dry weatner such as we have experienced this summer
is not to the lildng of tuberous Begonias. For this reason,
and in order to ensure a regular condition of moisture,
many cultivators mulch the beds of these Begonias with
Cocoanut refuse or leaf-mould.
DIVIDING PRIMULAS {Wilts).— The Primulas may
be divided af any time after flowering, and the present
is suitable, pro\ided you can give them the requisite
attention in watering and shading for a week or two
following the operation. Both P. rosea and P. japonica
revel in moisture-laden soils naturally, and, in addition
to abundant root moisture, should be afforded free sprink-
lings overhead for some days after di\iding the plants.
P. frondosa also delights in moisture, though in a lesser
degree. All three may be raised from seeds, and that
is the better way of ensuring great vigour in the plants.
Tiffany, scrim or thin canvas of varying qualities and
prices are usually stocked by nurserymen and seedsmen,
and your better plan would be to send a request to some
of these for samples, or for their catalogues, which as a
rule contain them.
PLANTS FOR FLAGGED WALKS (Spade).— Th& really
suitable plants for this purpose are not numerous, and
those available from seeds, or that soon make their
presence felt, less so. In a very considerable number of
instances we find tufted and cushion mounded subjects,
over which it is not possible to step in the usual way,
and others flowerine at 1 foot or 15 Inches high, all too
freely employed, ^\ith the result that the " path " Is in
the nature of a " flat rockery." Some of the dwarfest
and most suitable are given below, those available from
seeds being marked by an asterisk : Arenaria balearica,
Campanula muralis, C. pusilla, C. p. alba, C. pulla,
C. garganica (three varieties), ♦Dianthus squarrosus,
*D. ccesius, *Draba aizoides, Erinus alpinus in all its forms,
Helxine Solierolii, Leptinella scariosa, *Linaria pilosa,
Mentha Requieni, Myosotis rupicola, Sedumbre\'ifolium, S.
corsicum, S. hispanicum glaucum, and Thymus Serpyllum
coccineum. At the sides of the walks, where little or no
treading is likely, Corydalis lutea, the dwarfest of the Mossy
and other Saxifrages, and alpine Dianthi might also appear.
Much, naturally, depends upon circumstances.
PLANT FOR BEDDING (S. TF.).— If you are contem-
plating a bedding plant that could be grown in reserve
and transplanted into the intended position, we are afraid
we do not recall anything likely to be of service. The
Sweet William would not be in flower till late June or
early July, and, moreover, does not transplant well in
the advanced stages of growth, when flowering-time
is approaching. You might, of course, plant with spring
bedding subjects in the autumn the Persian Ranunculi
in variety, which would afford a useful succession, flowering
in your (Ustrict in June, or in December or January the
St. Brigid Anemones, which would flower in May and
June. These only need dibbling 2 inches deep into the
soil, or, by growing the plants in pots, they might be
introduced without disturbance when convenient. Or
you might effect a sort of compromise by planting, 8 inches
or so deep, Emperor, Sir Watkin or other Daffodils perma-
nently, and, as surface carpeters, Tufted Pansies of shades
distinct from the Violas. By planting the Daffodils In
September and the Violas (Tufted Pansies) in October,
the beds would be covered during the winter and a good
flowering ensured throughout April, May and June.
Then, by starting the Begonias early in boxes, giving them
plenty of room, these, with the surface cleared of Violas,
could be put out practically in bloom. The above are
merely sucgestions, and are made ^\^thout knowledge
of what bedding plants you employ. If you gave us
the names of these and the size of the beds, we might
further assist you.
PRUNING ANCHUSA (Dion) —The main shoots of
Anchusa italica are shortened to dwarfen the plant
previous to the expansion of any flowers, the effect of
which is that the axillary growths below the parts excised,
many of which would othcnvise never shoot, are forced
into vigorous g^o^vth, but more in a horizontal than in
a vertical direction. The more forward of these, as
they exhibit signs of seeding, are also cut back to a new
set of growths which issue lower down the stems of these,
and so on as long as the vegetative powers of tlie plant
are in such vigour as to induce the production of succes-
sive axillary growths. The limit is reached accordlnG
to the cultural treatment of the Boii, which, if of the best,
will continue to the end of the season. It may be of
interest to note that there is a comparatively large section
of herbaceous plants which can be rendered considerably
dwarfer than they naturally are under high-class culti-
vation by adopting the above expedient. The uncommon
but not unuscful Gypsophila Rokejekii is one such which,
f left to Itself, grows out of all proportion to be of benefit
n an ordinary herbaceous border. It can be kept quite
low by repeated pinching. The varieties of Anthemis
tinctoria afford an example of what may be effected
to produce a variety just by simple manipulation of tlie
plants. Plants left to themselves vill grow to 7 feet
or 8 feet in height, and on occasion are useful then. By
cutting at the proper stage, plants not exceeding 3 feet
in heiglit arc possible; or by planting wide and pegging
down the shoots the eamc end is attained. Some of the
varieties of Chrysanthemum maximum grow much too
tall to be generally useful, but instead of cutting these
we prefer to replant annually, the spring planted being
much dwarfer than those planted in the autumn. To
revert to the question of pegging, Linaria Fanciccii when
pegged dowii forms a low mass of lovely colour. Aster
acris is perhaps as distinctive pegged as treated in any
other way. A. Chmax is another well-known variety
that repays growing in this way, and autumn-flowering
Chrysanthemums, if pegged at an early stage of growth,
also produce striking masses of bloom. But really there
is a large number of plants that may readily be made
to assume different and distinctive habits of gro\vth
by those means. Let us note in conclusion that those
plants which become hard in the stem should be cut
back previous to that stage.
THE GREENHOUSE.
FUCHSIA WITH ABNORMAL FLOWERS (0. P.).—
It is impossible to state the reason of your Fuchsia pro-
ducing such depauperated blooms, though such freaks
of Nature are occasionally met with. We have known it
occur in several Fuchsias, but never before in the variety
(Gertrude Pearson. How best to restore the plant to
its normal condition is a somewhat difficult problem,
and unless particular interest is attached to it we should
be inclined to burn it. Should you. however, desire to
give it another chance to mend its ways, we advise
you to pick off all flowers and buds and repot, at the same
time taking away as much of the old soil as can be done
without unduly distressing the roots. Potted in a mixture
of loam, leaf-mould and sand, it will soon become estab-
lished and commence to grow and flower, when the blossoms
may revert to the normal type. On this point, however,
there is some doubt, though the experiment may be well
worth trying. We much appreciate yo;ir kind remarks
re The Garden, as our aim is to render it of value for all
classes of gardeners.
MISCELLANEOUS.
MILLIPEDES ATTACKING MALVAS (RkagaU).—
The pest attacking the Malvas and Clarkias appears to
be the flattened milhpede, Polydesmus amplanatus. These
are usually most abundant when the soil is sour, and
may be captured by burying pieces of Potato, with a
stick piercing them to mark the sites of the traps, examining
them each day and killing the captives.
SILVER-LEAF DISEASE (iien£).— There is no fear
of the silver-leaf disease spreading from one tree to another
while the affected parts are alive. The fungus which
causes it fruits on the dead stems, and it is from these
that the evil spreads. All affected stems should, therefore,
be burned. Stone fruits are most affected, but almost
any kind of tree is liable to fall a victim. We have not
met with it on Currants or llaspberries.
WASHING VEGETABLES FOR EXHIBITION (G. B. E.).
— All vegetables are best washed just before they are
staged in the show tent or building. They must be washed
just long enough to allow them time to dry before being
packed for conveyance to the show. If the latter is close
to the gardens where the vegetables are grown and special
packing is not necessary, then wash the roots on the
morning of the show, as they dry very quickly If they
are to be packed, wash Potatoes and roots, dry them,
and then wrap each one in clean white paper. A brusli
should never be used in preparing vegetables for exhibition.
Soak the specimens in water and then sponge them. A
syringing is beneficial, especially in the case of Celery
and Leeks.
NAMES OF PLANTS.— J. P., ScaWy.—nyhhd Tea
Kose Princessc de Beam. The other plant is Swainsona
canescens. E. A. D. — The Rose is Pharis&cr. Many
thanks for your kind remarks. J. C. A. — liose Mme.
B^rard. L. Johnston. — Hyoscyamus niger (Henbane).
F. T. Coates. — White, Carnation Mrs. Eric Hambro ;
buff, Viscountess Ebrington. F. B. M. — 1, Betula
lutea ; ^, B. lenta.
*** Owing to the Bank Eoliday, this issue had to
go to press several days earlier than usual, and consequently
many names of plants are held over until our next issue.
SOCI ETI ES.
ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.
At the fortnightly meeting held at Vincent Square on
Tuesday, the 28th ult., there was a good display of flowers
and fruit, but visitors were far from plentiful. Thanks
to the efforts of the National Gladiolus Society, a great
many non-competitive groups of these beautiful bulbous
flowers were staged, the most interesting of all being the
beautiful primulinus hybrids.
Orchid Committee.
Present : J. G. Fowler, Esq. (chairman). Sir Harry
Vcitch, and Messrs. James O'Brien, W. Bolton, A. McBcan,
T, Armstrong, J. E. ShiU, W. H. Hatcher, Arthur Dye,
E. H. Davidson, Gurncy Wilson, Cliarlcs H. Curtis, S. \V.
Flory and Kichard Thwaitcs.
Messrs. Charlesworth and Co. , Hay ward's Heath ,
showed very good examples of Odontoglossum Bolfese,
Catasetum macrocarpum aurcum, Cattkya Bex, LeeIIo-
Cattlcya colmaniana, together with a variety of Cypri-
pediunis and Cattleya Pauna, whose buff -colon red, purple-
lipped flowers were very beautiful.
Prom His Grace the Duke of Marlborough, Blcnlieim
Palace, Woodstock, came the fine Vanda cterulea Graci,
a very bc-autiful pale blue form. Silver Flora medal.
Messrs. Sander and Sons, St. Albans, had nice flowering
specimens of Masdevallia Carderi, Anguloa Cliftonii,
together vnth Cj-pripedium Franconia superbum, Laelio-
Cattleya Hiawatha and Epidendrum radiatum among
many things.
Mr. J. Gurney Fowler, Pembury, Kent, received a%vards
of merit for LEelio-Cattkya Miss Louisa Fowler and
Cattleya hardyana rubens, both choice and good. Silver
Flora medal.
Baron Bruno SchrOder, Englefleld Green, had the
fine white Cattleya Astron, an exquisitely beautiful plant.
See "New and Bare Plants."
Mr. H. Goodson, Putney, showed Oncidium Leopoldii
Fairlawn variety, the plant carrying a long raceme of
flowers.
Mr. B. G. Th^vaites, Chessington, Streatham Hill, had
nice examples of Odontioda Thwaitesii (with a spray of
rich purple flowers), Odontoglossum Pcseatorei and
others.
Fruit and Vegetable CosDnrrEE.
Present : J. Clieal, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs. W.
Bates, Edwin Beckett, A. Grubb, J. Willard, J. Davis,
A. W. Metcalfe, J. Jaques, A. Bullock, G. Wythes, P. C. M.
Veitch, John Harrison, C. G. A. Nix, A. R. Allan and
George Keif.
A magniflcent collection of pot-grown fruit trees, com-
prising Apples, Pears, Plums, Peaches and Nectarines
of the highest excellence, was staged by Messrs. James
Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea. The group was
arranged on the floor opposite the entrance, and was
probably the finest ever staged by this eminent firm.
In not a few instances the trees were simply loaded with
fruits, at once a demonstration of high cultural skill
and a tribute to British horticulture. In all there were
about six dozen trees staged, the majority of pyramidal
outline ; the others — Peaches, Nectarines and their
like — in fan-trained examples, reaching to 8 feet or more
across. Of the Plums there were a dozen examples
of Jefferson's, four of Kirke's, seven of Early Transparent
Gage, literally loaded with fruits ; while such as Green
Gage, Red Mirabelle and Oullin's Golden Gage were all
represented. Of Pears there were some half-dozen sorts,
Durondeau, Williams' Bon Chretien, Souvenir du Congrfis
and Louise Bonne of Jersey being some of them. Apples
Wealthy, Lady Sudeley and James Grieve, the second
named brilliantly coloured, were also noted. Of Peaches
there were six trees of Peregrine, two of Vioiette Hative
and one of Duke of York ; while the Nectarines found
admirable representation in flne examples of Early Rivers,
with others of Pineapple, Lord Napier, and Pitmaston
Orange. Hence it will be seen that the collection was both
good and varied, a fine demonstration of what is possible
with the cultural skill which now prevails. A gold Hogg
Memorial medal was deservedly awarded.
Messrs. S. Spooner and Sons, Hounslow, showed Apples
Red Astrachan, White Transparent, Mr. Gladstone,
Early White Magnet and Early Victoria. Pear Citron
des Carmes was also shown.
Floral Committee.
Present : H. B. May, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs.
C. T. Druery, E. A. Bowles. R. C. Notcutt, James Hudson,
F. W. Harvey, J. Green, T. Stevenson, J. W. Moorman,
J. F. McLeod, W. Howe, A. Turner, C. Di.xon, J. T.
Bennett-Po6, C. E. Shea, C. E. Pearson, W. P. Thomson,
W. G. Baker and E. H. Jenkins.
From Messrs. James Kelway and Son, Langport,
Somerset, came a fine table of Gladioli, the quality of the
exhibits finer than we have seen for a long time. Obviously
the weather conditions experienced this year have proved
congenial to these plants, both the flowers and the spikes
being excellent. The group was composed chiefly of
gandavensis hybrids, \vith a few others into which primu-
linus influence had freely entered. Some good sorts wore
John Churchill Craigie (yellow and scarlet), Sir M. W.
Ridley (crimson). Countess of Suffolk (crimson, pink and
yellow), General Henderson (flamed scarlet and crimson).
Yellow Prince, Golden Measure, Golden King (rich yellow
with crimson base), Lady Rosemarv Portal (ivorv white)
and Mrs. G. W. Willock (pink and white). Golden Girl
and Banshee are primulinus hybrids, very beautiful in
yellow and bronze pink.
Mr. L. R. Russell, Richmond, showed a collection of
C^losia pyramidaiis in three shades of red and tall and dwarf
yellow. A full table was occupied by the admirably
grown examples. Silver Banksian medal.
Mr. C. Engelmann, Saffron Waldon, was the only
exhibitor of Carnations, showing in admirable form sucli
as Elektra (orange), Carola, Scarlet Carola, White Wonder
and Circe (heliotrope, fancy). Silver Banksian medal.
Messrs. Atkinson and Statter, Southampton, showed two
semi-circular, tastefully arranged groups of Gladioli on
raised stepped staging. The arrangement was artistic in
the extreme, and, moreover, displayed this fine garden
flower to considerable advantage. The ground colour of
the arrangement was grey, the light sprays of Gypsophila
associated therewith harmonising beautifully. Some of
the leading sorts were Golden King, a centre of this, some
fifteen spikes in all, making a glorious display. The
variety has deep primrose yellow flowers with crimson
base. ' Blotch is scarlet and wiiite, a flne contrast ; Orby,
crimson scarlet; Goldfinder. yellow; and Loveliness,
flesh white to pink vnth yellow shading, a magnificent
variety. Excelsa (pink), Pink Beauty (with crimson
blotch), and Armagnac (crimson, white throat) were others
noted in a flne lot.
Mr. Howard H. Crane, llighgate. N., had a very fine
collection of Violas and Violcttas, showing them in his
usual style in pans of sand and water. Of the latter,
Claribel (pale blue), Forget-me-uot, Rock Orange, Cynthia
(mauve), Rock Lemon, Violetta (white) and Neapolitan
wore all good and choice. Bronze Banksian medal.
«^etttT. The yellow colour at
the stalk is only an indication that the variety has at
some time been crossed with a golden variety. It is no
detriment. Ventilate freely on warm, sunny mornings,
and close the house uj) with sun-heat about 3 p.m.
or 3.30 p.m., having previously syringed the borders,
floors and sides of the house, but not the plants them-
selves too much. On a heavy afternoon the temperature
under this treatment will often rise to 80" or 85° Fahr.
This, you will find, will move things on, and help the
fruit to grow and ripen in a much shorter time. Of
course, you must water with care, and if the plants are
sickly, use clear water only, gi\ing the border a slight
dressing of lime and adding thereto a top-dressing of
sweet maiden loam.
MISCELLANEOUS.
MOTH FOR IDENTIFICATION (i. Z.).— The moth
sent is the wood leopard moth ; it is beautiliil, but,
unfortunately, a pest of fruit trees, especially of Apples
and Pears, into the wood of which its larvje bore and
do considerable damage. It was illustrated in our issue
for April 4.
PROPAGATING NURSERY STOCK (B. Bartigan).—
We regret to say that we do not know of such a table
as you sugtiest dealing with the propagation of nursery
stock of ail descriptions. If you procure text-books
upon the different branches of horticulture, you will,
however, find a good deal of what you require.
STERILISING SOIL (B. M. £.).— We think your method
of sterilising the soil would serve your purpose well,
but we should be inclined to use one-half per cent, formalin
(a gallon of commercial 40 per cent, formalin to 200 gallons
of water). We do not think it would be necessary to
cover the ground wth canvas, but the frames might be
covered for three days and the soil afterwards left for
three weeks to permit the formalin to evaporate.
INSECTS IN WATER (0. B.).— No doubt the insects
present in the water are the larvai of the gnats. Fish
kept in the water will do much to keep down these insects
(which, while they are harmless to the Water Lilies,
are distinctly annoying to human beings), and will be
better than putting on a thin covering of paraffin, which
is perhaps the most deadly way of attacking gnats, but
which is always attended with some danger of damage
to the plants.
VARIOUS QUESTIONS (N - M. Jf.).— The Phlox is
attacked by stem eelworms (see our reply to a correspon-
dent recently on this pest). The Gooseberry is attacked
by the fungus Eotryospharia ribis, which fruits on the
dead wood. All the atfected branches should be cut
out and burnt immediately, so as to check the spread
of the disease at its onset. There is nothing to show
to what the death of the Apples is due, for the shoots
sent are quite healthy. The piece of root appears to
have been wedged in between stones.
INSECTS IN COLD FRAME {Linden Tree).— The
insects complained of must be hiding in the frame or
underneath the pots, pans or boxes in which seeds are
sown. A good plan will be to remove these receptacles
from the frame and give it a good dressing, but particu-
larly on the bottom, vith unslaked lime. 'S^Ticn the
pots, pans or boxes are returned to their places, the lime
will prevent the insects or slugs, if there are any, from
making their way to the seedlings. If the pests are
woodlice or earwigs, which may be answerable for a good
deal of the mischief, they may be trapped by laying
some small pots with a little dry moss in each in the
frame, and examine them every morning, shaking the
insects into a pail containing a little boiling water.
Another plan particularly successful with woodlice is
to take some Potatoes and cut them in halves. Then
scoop out a part of the middle and lay the hollowed
portions, concave side downwards, where the pests are
most likely to congregate. They must he examined every
morning. Another point we can recommend is to visit
the frame when dark, and by the light of a candle or
lamp you will probably find some of your enemies hard
at work, when their destruction is an easy matter. If
the sawdust is thoroughly burnt^that is to say, turned
into ashes — it would be valuable for many garden purposes,
more particularly if your soil is of a stiff, clayey nature.
In that case a liberal dressing may be worked into the
soil whenever it is being dug. For herbaceous borders.
Koses, &c., a dressing may be applied during the autumn
months and the surface of the soil occasionally worked
over with the hoe. For potting soil a small proportion
of ashes may be mixed mth the ordinary compost.
CLAY SOILS (B. V. Y.). — These arc usually difficult
to deal with. Clay, however, is variable, and much mil
depend on Nature'. As it happens to be badly w'ced-
infcsted and has to be practically entirely made, you
luid better proceed by deep trenching and forking out
all big weeds, such as Couch, Docks, nanilrlions and
the like. Gather these together with any brushwood
and make a bonfire, the ashes from which would be
valuable on the land. As you are taking in a portion
of an orchard, you should have much w^ood to burn up
after cutting down the trees. The best way to deal
with such a soil would be to burn a portion of it into
soft ballast, and, by incorporating this with the staple,
you aerate, drain and lighten by a single action. Heavy
lime dressings play a like part. It would assist matters
if you plough off the rough herbage and burn that. We
cannot say how long it would take to clear the ground ;
everything depends upon the nature of the weeds and
the thoroughness of the work in cleaning the land. As
you have no experience in such matters, you would do
well to get expert advice at the start. For the formal
Lily pool a supply of water under control would be best,
and unless the clay is quite of a tenacious character and
well puddled, cement had better be used. An overflow
is always desirable. In both of the above much depends
upon circumstances. Hardy plants for such a soil should
Include Pa;onies, Irises, DelphiniumP, Spirocas, Kniphoflas,
Micliaelmas Daisies, Helcniuins, Phloxes, Camimnulas,
Trollius, Chrysanthemums, Day Lilies and many more ;
but what would be exactly suited to the needs of the case
would depend entirely upon the size of the borders. This
also applies to the shrubs, 'mien the borders are formed,
or their size and position determined, write us again on
these matters. Roses are usually at home in clay soils.
NAMES OF PLANTS.— -4. E. B.—l. Hose Marie Pavic;
2, Kose Bettelstudent ; 3, Kose Petite Marcelle ; 4 and
5, garden varieties of Phlox, cannot match ; 0, Colutca
arborescens (Bladder Senna) ; 7, Melissa officinalis (Balm) ;
8, Philadelphus coronarius ; 9, Polygonum cuspidatum ;
10, specimen too incomplete for identification.
S. B. 0; Yorks. — The Sweet Pea is of no value.
The yellow Rose is much like Mme. Hector Leuilliot.
It is a strong grower. If of dwarf habit, it may be Mme.
Charles de Luze. The other variety is G. Nabon-
nand. J. C. IF. — 1, Melilotus officinalis ; 2, Lychnis
coronaria ; 3, Veronica longifolia ; 4, Sempervivum
montanum. W. Crook, Mancetter. — 1, Adiantum cune-
atum ; 2, A. gracillimum ; 3, A. formosum. W.
Banks. — 1, Festuca glauca ; 2, cannot name mthout
flowers, probably Ailantus glandulosa ; 3, Lathyrus
latifolius albus ; 4, L. rotundifolia ; 5, Polygonum
Bistorta ; 6. Myosotis palustris sempervirens ; 7, Veronica
spicata variegata ; 8, Linaria vulgaris ; 9, Oenothera
fruticosa ; 10, Geranium Endressii ; 11, Antennaria
dioica variety tomentosa ; 12, Sedum nipestre ; 13.
S. spurium ; 14, Stachys lanata ; 15, Campanula
pusilla alba. K. T. W. — 1, Eupatorium aromaticum ;
2, Trautvetteria palmata. M., Siavanger. — 1, Too
far advanced to say ; 2, Mme. Audot ; 3, Rosa alba.
W. J. R. — 1, Probably a variety of Lselio-Cattleya bletchiey-
ensis ; 2 and 3, forms of Cattleya Mendelii ; 4, Lselia
xanthina. fl. H. (?., Yorks. — It is impossible to name
such scrappy specimens. Mrs. Sartorius. — 1, Cistus
species ; 2, Geranium species. The specimens were too
scrappy for identification. J. B., N. Wales. — Bocconia
cordata. Torquay. — Crinum species, probably C
longifolium. Miss J . K., Suffolk. — Crinum species.
SOCIETIES.
HIGHCLIFFE GARDENERS* ANNUAL OUTING.
On Wednesday, July 29, the members of this society
had their annual outing, \isiting Pylewell Park, the
residence of W. Ingham Mliitaker, Esq , and Elmers
Court, the residence of Hugh Whitaker, Esq., both
charmingly situated in the New Forest district. The
first halt was made at Elmers Court on the way to
Pylewell Park, the latter being about a mile distant.
]\Ir. George Smeeth, the courteous head-gardener, met
the members and conducted them round the extensive
gardens, which, when completed, will extend to about
twenty-three acres. There are some very attractive
formal gardens here w^hich remind the visitor of some of
the old-world gardens. In quite suitable positions there
are rock, water and alpine gardens of great beauty, where
tiny tufts and huge masses of plants seem quite at home,
jud'iing from their flourishing condition. Very little formal
bedding-out is done, but there is a wealth of flower Large
Isuvra areas are enclosed in clipped Cupressus macrocarpa
hedges, the openings in these hedges being arched vith
the golden 0. m. hitea, and very effective they are.
Wail fruits and vegetables looked promising. Much
new wall space was furnished wth glass about two feet
deep, and the trees were thriving under it. All the contents
of the glass houses were equally well cared for. On
arriving at Pylewell Park the members were received
with every mark of kindness by Mr. Frank Hamilton,
the able head-gardener. They were first shown the
formal bedding-out in front of the mansion and the sunk
Rose garden, which is laid out in formal-shaped beds
with stone paths between. Some large buslies of Lavender
are growing in each bed, and the whole are surrounded
with Heliotrope, and outside the latter climbing Koses
luxuriate on rustic trellises. Mr. "NVliitaker generously
provided lunch and tea in a tent on the private cricket
ground, a kindly thought on his part, which was much
appreciated by the visitors. During the afternoon the
members inspected a magnificent collection of flowering
and rare shrubs. A long, winding grass slope led to the
ornamental lakes, which extend to about half a mile
in length. Tlie grass slopes referred to are studded with
Palms, Dracienas, Musas and other kinds of subtropical
plants, and on the fringe of the woods Tree Ferns seem
quite at home. They remain out all the winter. The
fronds are loosely tied up and slightly protected, and
bell-glasses arc placed on the top. Water Lilies form huge
masses of leaves and flowers on tlic surface of the vvater
in the upper portion of the lake. Arum Lilies look charm-
ing peeping out of the water. Giant Gunneras spread
their fan-like leaves over the waters, and Gladioli, Agapan-
thus umbellatus and a great variety of plants adorn the
borders at the edce of the lake. Grasses are numerous.
Kniphofla conspicua and W^istarias clothing tlie beautiful
bridge spanning the water to an Island must have a
cliarming effect when in full bloom. Some clumps of
Phormium tcnax have spikes and leaves nearly fifteen
feet high and almost as much through. A hedge of
Bamboos here is very striking on account uf the density
and height of the individual plants fornJng It. Perpetual-
flowering and Malmaison Carnations filled three large
houses. Madrosfield Court, Muscat of Alexandria, \Ucanto
and Frontignan Grapes bore heavy crops of fl.io i^j.i^lies
in a long range of vineries, and Melons, hardy trults and
vegetables bore full crops. A st riking feature i n t he
plant-houses was Solanum Wendlandii trained under the
roof glass and forming masses of blossom there. After
engaging in games of cricket and quoits, the members
loft for home, having epent a most enjoyable time.
Eod fjpr-iqbrs
Top Row
B
T
PLAN OF THE TRELLIS FRUIT STORE.
It is apparently quite at home there already,
and is highly pleasing among the stones, showing
its dark green leaves and dainty little purple
flowers so well among the gravel and shells from
the neighbouring sea-coast. It was still well
in bloom towards the end of July. The plants
are facing full south, and the moraine slopes
rapidly in that direction.
A Handsome Plant of Berberis dulcis.— One
of the finest plants of Berberis dulcis to be seen
anywhere in the United Kingdom is that in the
old garden at Monreith. This I saw again the
other day, and it is increasing annually in size.
Sir Heibert Maxwell measiured it in my presence,
and it was about one himdred and five feet in
circumference and quite twenty feet high. Of
course, a plant such as this requires plenty of
room to show its character and size, but this one
has no lack of space, standing apart from other
shrubs and covering this area without any crowding
by other plants. It would be interesting to
know if anyone has a bigger plant of B. dulcis
in this country. — S. Arnott.
the fruits, which must not, of course,
each other. I keep mine in a dry
attic, and, as you will note, every
fruit thereon is visible there. You
will note on the plan a rough
perspective view of the stand, and
it is important that the strips
shown at the four corners should
be added front and back to attain
perfect rigidity. The whole is a
knockdown arrangement. I fasten
the triangular strips to cross
bearers, preferably with string,
tightly lacing it ; but there are
other means by which this can
be done should the space between
the triangular spines be too much
or too little. The chief points to
remember in making a fruit store is
that a free circulation of air is
essential and the fruits should be
visible from all sides. The shrivelling
of the fruits is usuallv caused either
touch
fruits too early.
Chelmsford.
T. H. P. Dennis,'
HERBS IN THE GARDEN.
THE time for the sowing of herbs is
long past ; nevertheless, the season
of herbs is now coming, and some hints
on their culture and their usefulness
as decorative plants in the garden
may be timely enough. It is at the
present time that lovers of gardens take special
interest in the plants grown, and make notes as to
future treatment of them so as to secure improved
effects. Herbs, I may say at once, are, in the
majority of instances, much neglected. There is
such a vast difference between those plants well
cultivated and others which only manage to exist
Usually, the herb border is the one in which strong-
growing weeds become well established.
Thyme, Sage and Mint should receive special
attention, of course, for culinary purposes,
but I would not hesitate to grow Sage, Thyme,
Mint and Balm in flower-beds ; beds suitably
placed, say, near old walls or fences .and
12
PERSPECTIVE VIEW. NOTE THE FREE AIR
424
THE GARDEN.
[August 22, 1914.
buildings, or in borders near the entrance to
the flower, fruit or vegetable garden. Sage
and Thyme are my two favourites for growing
in the way suggested. I used to make a point
of raising a fresh stock of both every year ; the
Sage from seeds, and the Thyme from seeds and
layers. When in flower the Sage bed looked grand
and showed to advantage from a distance ; the
Thyme was not so conspicuous, but presented
an equally pleasing effect from a closer view. The
blue flowers of the Borage are also very telling
when the plants are grown in groups. This is a
good subject for cultivation in very poor soil,
and will brighten up any odd comer where many
kinds of plants will not live.
On the South Coast, Borage plants grow in masses
in the shingle just beyond the tidal mark, the sea
spray doing no harm to the plants or the flowers.
How to Propagate Thyme.— If any readers
possess a few old clumps of these plants, they should
deal with them in the following manner. Carefully
spread out the shoots from the centre, leaving
an open space there ; clear away all decayed
portions. Procure a sandy compost and place
It in the centre of the prepared plant, filling up
ihe space and covering quite half of the stems
of the plant— the basal parts — so that only a few,
inches of the young points are left visible. It is,
then, only necessary to keep the new compost
regularly watered, and the old plants will soon
root into it. Early the following spring the clumps
may be divided, when hundreds of rooted layers
will be available for making up fresh beds. The
work of layering should be done now.
This is a good way of treating old plants that
are grown solely for kitchen use, as, when so dealt
with, they live longer. It will not be necessary
to lift and divide the layered clumps ; simply leave
them as they are. I need only add, further, that
herbs for drying must be cut when in full flower ;
then their strength as such is retained. Avon.
THE STORING OF
TABLES.
VEGE-
IT behoves all persons now to economise in
every shape and form with foodstuffs
and to store all possible material for
future use. With vegetables a sjjendid
opportunity presents itself, because much
may be dealt with ; and, as they are
plentiful in gardens this season, now is the time
to set about the various details necessary. I
PARSNIP TENDER AND TRUE. PARSNIPS KEEP BEST IN GROUND WHERE THEY
GROWING THROUGHOUT THE WINTER.
purpose detailing the best means to adopt on both
a large and a small scale, whereby the cottager
may prepare a supply for the future as well as
his more affluent neighbour.
Potatoes. — Of all vegetables this is the most
important. At the present moment the prospect
of a heavy crop is encouraging, generally, although
in some localities, owing to a long spell of dry
weather at the end of May and during June,
the prospect among the early and midseason
varieties is not so good. The almost continual
rain during the last fortnight, too, warns one to
take all available precautions to preserve the later
crops from disease as far as possible, because
this is just the kind of weather to produce this
pest. Any batches not sprayed should be gone
over as quickly as possible with Strawsonite
Bordeaux mixture dissolved in clear cold water at
the rate of 2olb. to too gallons of water per acre.
For a small patch in a cottage garden, an ordinary
hand syringe will apply the mixture quite easily
through a fine nozzle. Such an operation
affords a splendid opportunity for co-operation
in the purchase of the Strawsonite. The under
side of the leaves is equally as important as
the upper side, and so are the stems. Early and
midseason varieties should be lifted, dried and
carefully stored in sheds or in heaps, and pro-
tected from rain by a slight covering of straw.
Bracken, dried grass and then a coating of soil.
When putting the Potatoes in heaps, a small quan-
tity of air-slaked lime is a good preservative of the
tubers, and no doubt wards off disease to some
extent. Smaller quantities can be stored in boxes.
Those who do not spray the later batches directly
CARROT NEW RED INTERMEDIATE. CARROTS MAY BE STORED FOR MONTHS IN SAND
IN A SHED OR CELLAR. SEED SHOULD BE SOWN NOW.
they see the first sign of disease in the leaves
would do well to cut off the haulm quite close to
the son, as undoubtedly the disease penetrates
the tuber through the stems.
Carrots, Beet and Turnips should be left in
the garden until fully grown, but not afterwards.
They are easily stored for months in sand in a
shed or cellar, or in the open, protected from too
much wet and frost. If sand is not available,
they can he massed in a heap and covered over
mth any light material underneath a thick coating
of soil.
Couve Tronchuda and Celeriac may be treated
in a similar manner, but not in such quantities
as the foregoing kinds.
Parsnips keep best where growing until quite
late in the spring ; in fact, until new growth
in the leaves is on the move, when they should be
lifted and stored in sand in a damp situation
Should early frost take place in the autumn,
cover the crowns with soil 4 inches thick to preserve
that portion of the root exposed by the growth
of the leaves.
Leeks keep best where growing, except, per-
haps, those matured quite early for exhibition.
These, when growth is complete, should be lifted
and stored in a dry place with moist soil about
them, still retaining their roots.
Celery will come under the same categorj' as
Leeks, keeping better where growing as long
as the hearts are protected from excessive rain ;
this, when followed by frost, is the principal cause
of decay.
Vegetable Marrows can be preserved over a
long period, and as they are plentiful this season
they afford a good opportunity of prolonging a
supply. When the jMarrows are fully growni
and before they become hard in the skin, they
should be cut and hung up in a cool, airy
shed. The time to cut is best ascertained by
inserting the thumbnail in the skin of the
Marrow near the stalk, if it penetrates easily,
they should not be cut. The larger fruits, as
Long White, Green and Cream, should be allowed
to grow to their full size and mature fully. These
will keep in a dry room for months, and can
be made into jam or used for pies at will.
Cabbages, when nearing maturity, should be
half pulled up, severing a portion of their roots
in the ground. This will check growth and prevent
them running to seed.
Cauliflowers, as they approach maturity,
should he pulled up, standing the roots in water
in a cool shed or behind a south wall, where they
will keep fresh for some time.
August 22, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
425
Salsify and Scorzonera should be treatt-d in
the same way as Carrots and Beet.
Runner Beans may be induced to bear longer
by removing the Beans as fast as they grow to
their full size and before they form seed, and thus
relieve the plant of an undue strain. If the plants
can be protected also from early frost, so much
the better. The Beans are best preserved by
standing the stalks in water, and although they
may not last long, a few weeks saved may be
useful.
Jerusalem Artichokes should be left in the
soil until required, as they keep better there than
anywhere until new growth commences in April.
Globe Artichokes ought to be cut directly they
attain full size and before they harden. Stand
the stems in water in a cool shed or under a wall
away from the sun's rays.
Onions must be carefully handled. Directly
the tops exhibit signs of maturity, they should be
pulled up, laid thinly in the sun to thoroughly
ripen, and then be suspended in ropes or singly
from the under side of the roof in a cool
shed, or be spread thinly on a boarded floor. The
early growing Tripoli varieties may be longer
preserved than ordinarily by pulling them up
directly their full growth is assured, removing
the slightest sign of decayed skin and giving them
an airy position.
Cucumbers keep best placed in a bo.x one layer
thick on green Nettles and buried r foot below
the surface.
Rhubarb is best made into jam when fully
matured- in its growth.
With regard to the growth of such crops as
Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, Broccoli, Kales and other
winter vegetables already in existence, these
should be encouraged to grow to their fullest extent
by keeping them free from weeds and constantly
stirring the soil.
BROCCOLI
CHRISTMAS WHITE. BROCCOLI, CABB.^GE, SAVOYS AND
VALUABLE WINTER CROPS, AND MAY BE PLANTED NOW.
KALE ARE
Sowing and Planting. — Every available piece
of ground between fruit trees should be planted
with Cabbage, Coleworts, late Savoys and K.;)es.
Quantities of Spinach, Onions, Carrots. Turnips
and so forth should be sown without delay among
Strawberries or on any vacant places ; even
flower-beds might be extemporised for such crops
as are still available bj' planting and seed sowing.
Appearances in the garden are of little avail
in case of such dire necessity as we may be put to
in the near future, when sentiment avails but little.
ONIONS SHOULD BE WELL RIPENED BEFORE STORING, TAKING CARE NOT TO BRUISE THE
BULBS. THE VARIETY RECORD IS HERE ILLUSTRATED. SEED SHOULD BE SOWN NOW.
The preserving of such vegetables as Peas,
Kidney Beans and green Tomatoes in bottles,
too, should not be forgotten. E. Molyneux.
r^'T.'imor^ Payk, Bishop's Walihmn, Hants.
HOW TO PRESERVE FRUIT WITH-
OUT SUGAR OR ANY SPECIAL
APPARATUS.
Materials Needed in Readiness. — Boiling water
sufficient to fill the fruit bottles. Clarified mutton
fat, melted and ready to use. (Put this in a jar,
into the oven, while the fruit is cooking.) Vege-
table parchment covers to fit over all the bottles,
and fine strong twine cut into lengths to tie down
each jar quickly.
Method. — Gather the fruit on a dry day, and,
having provided clean teacloths, very carefully
wipe the fruit, laying aside any that are over-
ripe, split or in any way imperfect. Place the
clean, dry fruit gently in perfectly clean, dry,
wide-mouthed bottles or jars, such as old French
Plum bottles, good sound glass jam jars, &c. .
(but do not use any that have contained pickles or
vinegar). After filling the bottles with the fruit,-
gently turn and keep patting the bottles. In
this way the fruit settles down, so that you will
find you can add sfime moj-e fruit to each jar after
it is apparently quite full. Next stand the bottles
in an open vessel, such as a large fish-kettle or any
large saucepans, &c., and put clean straw, hay or
rags between the bottles to prevent them from:
shifting while cooking. Fill the large vessel with
cold water till it reaches to about two inches or
tliree inches below the tops of the jars. Let it
gradually boil up, and keep it boiling till the fruit .
at the bottom of the jars just begins to show signs
of cracking. Then (" I can't be interrupted to
speak to anyone, not even the Queen if she should
chance to call ") fill the bottles with boiling water
from the kettle, thoroughly covering the fruit
(as it often soaks up a little of the water), and
carefully and quickly add just enough of the melted
fat to entirelv cover the surface of the water.
426
THE GARDEN.
[August 22, 1914.
Tie the vegetable parchment covers over the jars
instantly. Set the jars to cool, and wipe every
one before storing, in case any of the fat should
be on the outside. Store on cool, airy shelves.
Fruit preserved thus will keep good for twelve
months. — Anne Amatevr,
BOTTLING LATE FRUITS.
M
UCH has been written from time
to time on this important subject
by far more able pens than mine,
and I do not for one moment
pretend to teach experts the best
way ; but with every appearance
of serious times in front of us it
behoves each man to do his best
both to prevent waste and make
every preparation for the future.
For many years my good wife has
taken much interest in this direc-
tion, and I venture to say that in
some cases many fruits which she
has preserved in this way are
equal, and even in some cases
superior, to fresh fruits. Especi-
ally does this relate to Plums,
Damsons and Morello Cherries.
Fortunately, it is by no means
necessary to have the best varie-
ties for this purpose ; indeed, some
of the smaller and more common
sorts of Plums are to be preferred
to the choicer varieties for this
purpose. Damsons, for instance,
are among the most simple to
preserve, and when properly done
the true Damson flavour is much
more pronounced after six months
than when freshly taken from the
tree. Where heavy crops of
Pluins abound, fruits which are
even not yet ripe may be
thinned and bottled with much
success.
Pears. — With the heavy crop
of this fruit in many parts of
the country, and with the short
time many varieties will last
when ripe, means should be taken
to preserve them. Nearly all
varieties will lend themselves
to it. The small ones may be peeled
and bottled whole, and the
larger ones cut into quarters.
These make a very wholesome and
appetising dish when stewed.
Morello Cherries. — Though
tliese are not nearly so largely
grown as many other fruits,
few things are more appreciated or more delicious
after being bottled, and can be served up in many
ways.
Another important fruit which should not be
overlooked, and which is within the reach of most
of the poorer among us, especially those in the
country, is
The Common Blackberry, which finds favour
when 111 rely cuoked with both rich and poor
alike.
Rhubarb, though not strictly a fruit, is generally
included as such in fruit-bottling classes, as it
naturally ranks as a fruit dish on the table. By
choosing the younger leaf-stalks and cutting
them into suitable lengths, these preserve well,
and will answer splendidly for making fruits and
tarts during the winter months.
Bottling the Fruits. — There are many forms
of special bottles manufactured expressly for
this purpose, the majority of which are particu-
larly well adapted. Always select those which
will have nothing but clear glass next to the fruit
after being screwed down. Medium-sized bottles
are to be preferred to the larger ones, as the
contents will not keep for any length of time
when once opened. Select sound fruits which are
rather under than over ripe, and these should be
graded. Pack evenly and firmly into the bottles till
within a short distance of the top ; the fruits should
be covered mth cold, clean water, leaving a small
of the vessel when the bottles are being heated
to prevent them coming into direct contact
with the heat. Edwin Beckett, V.M.H.
A BEAUTIFUL JAPANESE MAPLE IN ASSOCIATION WITH CAMPANULA
PELVIFORMIS.
air space of about half an inch. The rubber ring
ought then to be placed on, and next the glass
top. Finally screw down the collar tightly.
The bottles should be stood in rather a large
pot or boiler specially made for the purpose,
which ought to be stood on a fire or a gas stove,
allowing the temperature to rise slowly to about
160° Fahr. This will take about an hour and
a-half. It can easily be tested by the thermometer,
after which allow them to cool down gradually,
when the bottles may be placed in a dry, cool store
cupboard, where the fruits will keep for months
and, indeed, in many cases for years. It is well to
place a large plate or small dish at the bottom
JAPANESE MAPLE AND CAM-
PANULA PELVIFORMIS.
Japanese Maples are very slow in groivth, but
they spread out into dense heads and have a fine
appearance when well placed. They may be
recommended especially for small gardens, as the
several varieties occupy but little space and contri-
bute a rich scheme of colours, from deep crimson
to light green. To give an idea of the slowness of
growth, I may mention that the plant shown m
the accompanying illustration has been in its
present position for thirty years,
but is still under six feet in height.
It is a specimen of Acer poly-
morphum dissectum, with leaves
most elegantly cut to such an extent
as to give it the appearance
t)f some delicate Fern rather than
a Maple. The colour of the foliage
IS deep reddish bronze, which
is especially bright and con-
spicuous during the early summer.
The slender branches are of an
elegant drooping, almost weeping,
habit, and it is a gem for the
foreground.
"he colours of the Maples are
very effective, varying from light
green and golden yellow to all
shades of red, bronze and dark
purple, while in the autumn many
kinds assume a bright scarlet,
which is retained diuring several
weeks before the dropping of the
leaves. Another strong point in
favour of these Maples is their
extreme hardiness. Even in the
North they flourish without pro-
tection during the winter. All
they need in exposed localities is a
little shelter in the early sprmg
from cold or boisterous winds,
which might damage the young
foliage before it is fully developed.
Owing to the dwarf character of
their growth it is very neces-
sary when planting to place them
in a prominent position, as, imless
they come directly under the
eye, the beautifully formed leaves
and the exquisite markings are not
seen to advantage. Arranged
in bold groups, the brilliancy of
colouring for which these Maples
are so remarkable in the autumn is
3 striking and uncommon feature.
Campanula pelviformis is said to be a variety of
C. carpatica, but it is sufficiently distinct to be
treated as a species. It is one of the most attractive
forms known. Instead of the well-known flowers
of C. carpatica, the large blossoms of C. pelviformis
are deeply saucer-shaped in form, and carried on
freely branching stems that are about a foot high.
It should be found in every collection of hardy
plants, for it is certainly one of the best of its
class, and both compact and free-flowering. The
blossoms, which are about two inches across,
are pale lilac. The seedlings rarely approach in
any degree to the parent plant, but revert to the
C. carpatica type. Wvndham Fitzherbert.
\
August 22, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
427
HARDY HIMALAYAN
PRIMULAS.
{Coiiciuded from page 412.)
P. sikkimensis (Hook.). — Another well-known
plant is P. sikkimensis, which is quite hardy,
but which many find short-lived in gardens. It
is a lover of moisture, and in its native habitats
chooses marshy situations. It seeds freely and
comes readily from seed, so that it is easily
retained, even in places where the old plants
die ofE. It needs no description, and its tall
stems, bearing their abundant fragrant, light
yellow flowers, please everyone. As the name
would indicate, it comes from Sikkim, where
it is found at an altitude of from 11,000 feet
to 15,000 feet. P. sikkimensis belongs to
Watt's section Purpurea and Pax's Nivalis.
P. Stuartu (Wall.).— The true P.
Stuartii from Thibet, Kashmir,
Chamba and Sikkim has yellow, per-
fumed flowers ; but much confusion
has arisen between it and P. pur-
purea. P. Stuartii has the leaves
minutely serrate, those of P. purpurea,
being almost entire. It is usually
found in wetter places than P. pur-
purea, and in cultivation prefers a
good supply of water. It is a hand-
some plant, with lemon yellow
flowers on long, spreading petioles.
It belongs to Pax's Nivalis and
Watt's Purpurea.
P. Wattii ( King) .— .-V beautiful little
plant, which with me has not proved
hardy. It belongs to the same sec-
tion as P. Reidii, and requires much
the same treatment. The drooping
flowers are of a fine dark purple colour.
It was introduced into this country
some little time ago, and when first
shown in London by Messrs. Gill it
caused quite a sensation, people
failing to recognise it.
P. Winteri (Gill). — This is sy-
nonymous with P. petiolaris var. pul-
verulenta of Hook, f., but Mr. W. G.
Craib is of the opinion that it is a good
valid species, and that it should not
be considered as a variety of P.
petiolaris. With this conclusion most
of those who know the plant will
agree. It is a handsome species, with
very farinose leaves and pretty rose
lilac flowers. It has not been much tested outside,
and has generally been cultivated in pots in a cold
house, for which it is well adapted. It is well
worth growing for the sake of its beautiful mealy
foliage, apart from its flowers.
Morelands, Duns. John Mac watt.
j mches across, not unlike our common Snowball
Tree ; hence the popular name of the Japanese
Snowball Tree is frequently used. As a lawn
specimen or a group of six to a dozen plants in
a large bed and massed in a border, nothing could
exceed this Viburnum in beauty when in blossom,
rising Uke a mound of snow from a green carpet.
V. plicatum was first introduced by Fortune in
1844. A second variety, Mariesii, is also a good
garden plant for sheltered positions, its behaviour
suggesting that it is not quite so hardy as the
subject of this note. Cuttings made of the
half-ripe wood root readily in late summer in a
propagating-frame with slight bottom-heat, or
on a gentle hot-bed. Layering is also an easy
method of increase. V. plicatum luxuriates in
a rich loamy soil. Mulching with decayed manure
in June, liberal supplies of water during dry
weather, with occasional applications of liquid
Kew in a bed ul the Mediterranean Heath. At
home, in South America, E. pinnatifolia is an ever-
green, but during a severe winter with us many
of the leaves turn brown and fall before the new
ones push in spring. It belongs to the Rosace*
family, and the l.irge white flower?, 3 inches across,
with a central mass or rosette of stamens, may be
compared to a choice single Rose. The most
suitable soil appears to be sandy loam in which
leaf-mould and peat have been freely worked.
E. pinnatifolia is without doubt one of our choicest
August-flowering hardy shrubs.
ASCLEPIAS DOUGLASII.
This hardy perennial, though introduced into
this country in 1846, is little known in gardens,
in proof of which it may be mentioned that in
the last sixty volumes of The Garden only one
JAPANESE GUELDER ROSE OR SNOWBALL IKLE (VIBURNUM PLICATUM.
A BEAUTIFUL JAPANESE GUELDER
ROSE.
Viburnum plicatum is the sterile form of the
Japanese Guelder Rose, Viburnum tomentosum, and
one of the best, if not the best deciduous flowering
shrub in the genus. The illustration is sufficient
evidence of its free-flowering qualities. It forms
a spreading bush 5 feet to 8 feet high, with promi-
nently ribbed green leaves, which are almost
hidden in June by the pure white flowers. These
are borne in globose inflorescences, 2 inches to
manure, all assist in producing a picture such as
the one shown.
A RARE CHILIAN SHRUB.
Although introduced about fifty years ago,
Eucryphia pinnatifolia is still a comparatively
rare plant. It seems to thrive best in a half-
sheltered spot where the shrubs get plenty of
light but are sheltered on hot, sunny days.
Another requisite appears to be moisture and
cool conditions at the roots, for though the
groimd must be well drained, it is rather note-
worthy that usually the best specimens are those
surrounded with low-growing shrubs some 2 feet
to 3 feet in height. The conditions named can
perhaps be most readily supplied in the South and
West, where good specimens may be noted. At
Wisley two noble specimens are flowering profusely
at the present time, while others are to be seen at
note on it, a few lines in length, occurs. It is,
however, a handsome plant, worthy of culture for
its foliage alone, while its sweet-scented blossoms
render it desirable. In Nicholson's " Dictionary
of Gardening " its height is given as front 2 feet to
3 feet. The entire leaves are i foot in length and
4^ inches in breadth,- and the plant, when it has
attained its fullest dimensions, has a very noble
appearance. It flowers in August, bearing
numerous heads of small blossoms, some of the
bloom-clusters having a circumference of 12 inches.
The globes of flower, when all the blossoms are
fully expanded, appear of a faint flesh pink colour
at a little distance. The reflexed petals are of a
dull reddish hue. and the corollas, which are less
than half an inch across, are of a yellowish tint.
Over two hundred blooms are often carried on
a single flower-head. As has been said, the
blossoms are perfumed, and innumerable humble-
bees are attracted bv the scent to the bloom
428
THE GARDEN.
[August 22, 1914.
heads, where they soon lie prone, intoxicated
with the nectar. The plant is a native ol
Western America and is a very strong grower,
spreading by underground stems. 11 a specimen
is shifted, any little portion of the roots that
may be left throws up growth lo the spring. A
better-kno%vn species and the showiest (lowerer
of the race is A. tuberosa, which bears flat
umbels of brilliant orange scarlet flowers on
stems about 2 feet high. It will not succeed in
heavy soil, but in light ground and in full sun-
shine it should do well.
Kingsu'cai W. F.
A BEAUTIFUL ROCK ROSE.
CiSTUS LoRETii iS one of our best Rock Roses,
and is a hybrid between C. ladaniferus and C.
monspeliensis. It forms an attractive evergreen
bush 3 feet or more in height, and, being of a
spreading habit, usually exceeds its height in
HOW TO INCREASE THE
FOOD SUPPLY.
THE Royal Horticultural Society is
doing an excellent work in bringing
to notice the various ways in which
our supplies of vegetables may be
maintained throughout the coming
months. Happily, our supply for the
time being is all that can be desired, but the
question which calls for immediate attention is
the sowing and planting of vegetables for future
use.
At Wisley every square foot of available land
is being cropped, and surplus seeds have been
distributed among cottagers in the neighbourhood.
This worthy example has been followed in many
towns and villages throughout the United Kingdom.
We know of many places, particularly in the
CISTUS LORETII, A HARDY AND FREE FLOWERING ROCK ROSE.
diameter. The leaves are small — i inch to 2 inches
long — and the flowers are in terminal clusters
of three to five blooms, white, with a crimson
blotch at the base of each petal. The flowers are
2 inches or rather more in diameter and, in common
with other Rock Roses, open in the morning and
shatter before night. There is little evidence
of this failing, however, as the bushes continue
to produce a profusion of blossoms in succession
throughout June and July.
It is worth noting that the flowers of C.
Loretii remain open for a portion of the after-
noon, whereas most Rock Roses shatter about
midday. This is one of the hardiest Cistuses,
and must be included in a selection of the
best six for garden decoration. The Rock
Roses delight in a well-drained sandy soil and
warm sunny positions on sloping banks or at
the foot of a south wall or fence. Cuttings
root readily in autumn in a cold frame or
tmder a handlight, and artificial heat is not
desirable. A. O.
county of Surrey, where committees have been
feirmed, and vacant land has been, and is still
being, brought into cultivation. The committees
are doing admirable work, not only in the distribu-
tion of seeds and garden tools and in the securing
of suitab'.e plots of ground, but also in giving
useful work to many who would otherwise be
unemployed. This work is of the greatest
national importance, and there is no time to
lose, as the season is not far distant when
vegetative growth will cease for the year. The
following is a list of vegetables which may be
sown or planted now, and many of them, it
may be observed, would be ready for use in less
than two months.
Turnips and Swedes. — Such varieties of Turnips
as will keep — ^fiir example, Red Globe and Golden
Ball — are recommended for sowing at the present
time. They may he sown both in heavy and light
soils, and if grown in the latter should be ready
by the middle of October. If allowed to
stand for the winter they make a most useful
vegetable in the form of Turnip tops. For
some unlinown reason garden Swedes are not
very extensively gro^vn, but wise country folk
well know that the Swede is a better vegetable
for cooking in the winter than even the
Turnip. Moreover, Swede tops may be used
for cooking in the same way as Turnip tops,
while the cultivation of the two vegetables is
similar.
Carrots. — The varieties most recommended are
Shorthorn and Intermediate. It is not to be
expected that they will make a large size, but
they may be allowed to remain in the soil and
be drawn at any time in the winter, while in
favourable soils and situations early roots may
be drawn by the end of September or early in
October.
Beetroot. — If sown at once, and given a favour-
able autumn, a yield of fair-sized bulbs may be
expected in about ten weeks. Only the Egyptian
or Turnip-rooted variety should be sown.
Onions. — In view of the fact
that large quantities of Onions are
annually imported from the Con-
tinent and Egypt, it is not un-
likely that our supplies will be
short, and already the market
prices are high. All Onions are
hardy, and it is a common prac-
tice to sow about mid-August, so
that the plants are forward enough
to be useful before winter. Tripoli
Onions are specially recommended
for sowing at the present season,
and the bulbs may either be
drawn in winter or allowed to
stand mitil the spring, Onions
require a rich and deeply worked
soil. Light soil should be trodden
over to consolidate it before the
drills are drawn.
Leeks. — It is not too late to
plant out Leeks, and these might be
lifted at any time in winter.
Cabbage and other Winter
Greens. — These provide the most
important of all the mnter crops.
The main batch of spring Cabbage
should be planted without delay
and surplus plants distributed.
Plant closer than usual to econo-
mise space ; when cutting in the
spring, every alternate plant may
be removed, giving room for others to develop.
After planting, it is a good plan to cover the
surface with finely sifted coal ashes as a
preventive measure against slugs. Sprouting
Broccoli, Savoys, Kales — especially the Russian
Kale — and Coleworts should all be planted now
to yield valuable crops all through the winter
and spring. Any open piece of ground will sufiice,
even between permanent crops of small fruits,
provided it is deeply dug and not exhausted by
previous crops.
Winter Spinach. — On light soils and in country
districts, away from the evil effects of town fogs,
this acceptable vegetable may be sown until the
end of September. When small, the plants may
be drawn to make room for others to develop.
It is a mistake to remove the leaves before the
plants have attained a fair size. Keep the soi)
well stirred between the rows ; give an occasional
dusting with soot to clear the ground of slugs and,
I at the same time, assist the plants in making
growth.
August 22, 1914/
THE GARDEN.
429
GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.
MELONS IN HOUSES AND FRAMES.
AMATEURS who arc successful in the
cultivation of Cucumbers often fail
to grow Melons satisfactorily. Of the
L two the latter are the most tender,
^ but failure is frequently the result
of undue coddling. The young plants
are subjected to excessive heat, the stems and
leaves are rendered quite delicate, and then,
when the time comes to stop hard firing and to
admit more air, the plants fail. A medium course
is best. The plants mostly collapse when the
fruits are beginning to net prior to the ripening
stage, so that, practically, the whole of the work
expended on them is useless.
Plants bearing fruits in an advanced stage
now should be closely watched. Maintain the
soil in an even state as regards moisture, giving
manure-water immediately after clear water, and
in sufficient quantity to well moisten the whole of
the soil in the bed and almost close up to the stems
of the plants. I do not think I have ever lost
a Melon plant through watering, and when giving
clear water I always poured it on the soil close
up to the stems of the plants from the seedling
to the ripening stages. Manure-water was kept
about two inches away from the stems. Amateurs
of little experience, however, would be well advised
to refrain from wetting the soil nearer than 2 inches
to the stem of the plant. All young shoots that
are regarded as surplus ones must be pinched off —
not cut — while very small ; then there will be no
risk of the stems damping off.
Melons, tmlike Cucumbers, thrive best in a
fairly heavy loam, and when planted in the latter
and top-dressed with that of a similar nature the
plants rarely collapse ; but they often do so
when grown in a very light, sandy mixture. As
long as the foliage is free from insect pests it is
not advisable to syringe it. Judicious ventilation
at the top of the house only until the fruits begin
to ripen, and plenty of floor moisture, will be all
that is required. While the Melons are actually
maturing on the plants, open top and front venti-
lators, but damp the path or floor of the house
as much again while they are open. Admit a
little air through the top ventilators all night,
but cease damping the floors at five o'clock in the
afternoon. Plants in frames require less damping
and less watering than those in houses. Very
great care should be taken to remove surplus
shoots while small, and so avoid overcrowd-
ing. Dispose the main stems thinly over the bed
surface ; then ventilation, without causing direct
draughts, wUl be more effectual. Raise the
half-grown fruits on blocks of wood or empty
flower-pots. Avon.
HOW TO IMPROVE GROUND FOR
VEGETABLES.
Every year new plots are dug up and cropped
with vegetables. In some instances the newly
broken soil is very good, and does not need much
labour to bring it into a good condition for
yielding first-rate crops ; but in the majority
of cases a good deal of labour is needed
and much care in the working of the soil
and the application of manures. There is
no time better than the present for " taking
stock," as it were, of the real state of ground
which was broken recently and cropped for the
first time this summer, .\nother ordinary digging
or trenching would much improve it, but the
cultivator must lose no opportunity to get the
soil into the best possible condition. In no case
must the clayey subsoil be brought to the surface
and mi.xed indiscriminately with the top layer
for at least three years. At the end of that time,
through yearly tillage, the soil to a considerable
depth will be vastly improved, and some of the
subsoil may then be mixed with the surface portion.
In many gardens there is a clayey soil and also
a light one. Ii> such cases the cultivator should,
while carrying out trenching work, throw out
spadefuls of the clayey subsoil at every few yards
as the work proceeds, wheel it away to a corner
of the garden, tip it down in rough heaps, and
leave it there for the frosts and weather generally
of winter to act upon it. One turning may b;
advisable about the end of January. By the end
of April the stiff loam will be in a pulverised state
and very suitable for mixing with lighter soil. The
soil which is added must be kept near the surface,
not buried, then it wiU still be under the influence
of the weather. Rotted manure may be mixed
with the clayey portion of the soil in the autumn,
and with the lighter portion next February. The
pulverised clayey soil would be splendid for Roses.
In the heavy soil Broad Beans, Cabbages, Cauli-
flowers and winter greens may be grown ; and in
the lighter soil Dwarf Beans, Peas, Beet, Celery,
Potatoes and Carrots may form the principal
crops. By judicious treatment from year to year
the soil would be so much improved and enriched
that very heavy crops could be obtained from it at
a low cost as regards the tillage.
GAILLARDIAS.
Wherever this very showy herbaceous plant
is once grown it is always grown, for by experience
its several distinctly good points quickly reveal
themselves. It is, for instance, practically weather-
proof, a most valuable advantage, in view of
the varying meteorological conditions which
obtain in our land. Under the hottest sun,
when, maybe, other plants are apparently lifeless,
or thereabouts, Gaillardias are in perfectly happy
mood, raising their brilliant heads of colour well
up on straight, stiff stems, as though oblivious
to such things as variations of temperature.
Heavy rains seem to affect them just as little.
Few flowers can equal them as cut blooms, and
on this accotmt they are favourites for home
decoration purposes. They need, of course,
to be gathered young, i.e., before the ring of
petals has become quite flat. As exhibition
subjects, too, they are invaluable, and if given
reasonable time soon recover after a journey.
The plants possess, however, one eccentricity,
especially those more than a season old. They
sometimes throw up quite good and healthy
ground growths, but without flower-spikes. In
order, therefore, to obviate such a disappoint-
ment occiuring, as well as to increase one's stock
of plants, now is an opportune time to lift any
clumps that may not have flowered, dividing out
the rootlets into light soil a few inches apart.
Growths emerging from flowering plants may, of
course, be treated similarly. It is well to mark
the spot, because frequently the leaves die quite
away ; but this should not be taken as a sign
that the roots are dead. In due time they will
spring up. Apart from a dressing of some insecti-
cide, soot or lime, no further attention will be
necessary until removal in spring to more perma-
nent quarters in the border, either singly or in
clumps of three or four, the latter giving a bold
effect. B. W. Lewis.
BEDDING VIOLAS OR TUFTED
PANSIES.
Charming alike to form a carpeting for taller
plants or to provide masses of colour by
themselves, the above are now deservedly
popular not only in the large private estab-
lishments, but also among amateurs. Un-
doubtedly, a great point in their favour is their
adaptability to both climate and soil, though
probably the ideal soil is one of a light, sandy
loam to which some well-rotted leaf-soil has been
added. The position for planting, if possible,
should be an open one, more especially when the
Viola is used in a bedding scheme, as it tends to
retain its compactness of growth better than when
in a shady position.
The propagation of the Tufted Pansies is
simplicity itself, and can be successfully accom-
plished without the aid of glass at all, although,
of course, where a cold frame is available, so much
the better. To obtain a good supply of suitable
cuttings at the present time, some of the plants
should be cut back when decaying flowers
are removed. This will at once encourage plenty
of young growth in the centre of the plants,
and if a little finely sifted soil has been previously
given, all the better. Should these have to be
inserted out of doors, a nice sheltered spot, where
it will be an easy matter to constantly spray over-
head until roots are formed, should be selected,
and also where (assuming they are to remain there
until spring) they are as little exposed as possible
to unfavourable weather.
If possible, the cuttings inserted outside should
be put in by the end of the first week in August,
but where frames are available, any time up till
the end of September will do. In each case a
light soil should be prepared and made moderately
firm, an inch of sharp sand being placed on the
surface before the cuttings are inserted.
Another ready means of increase is to split up
the plants during October, and they can then be
replanted at once, care being taken that each
portion has sufficient roots to enable it to make
another start. It is essential for plants in frames
to be exposed as much as possible and, after the
cuttings are struck, gradually hardened, the lights
being kept off except during times of severe frost
and heavy rains. The young plants outside can
be protected by dry leaves, Bracken or mats.
There are many excellent varieties to choose
from, but the following are a few which can be
relied upon : Purple — Archie Grant and William
Daniels ; light blue — Maggie Mott, Sir Robert
Pullar and William Robb ; white — Purity and Lady
of the Snows ; lavender — Kitty Bell and John
Young ; blue — Campbell Bannerman, True Blue
and Admiral of the Blue ; violet — Bluebell ;
yellow — Sydney, Lord Kitchener, George Palmer
and Primrose (lemon yellow).
Serlhy Gardens, Bawlry. H. Turner.
430
' THE GARDEN.
[August 22, 1914
GARDENING OF THE WEEK,
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruits Under Glass.
Peach and Nectarine Trees in pot* which are
intended fur early forcing should be carefully
examined, and all that require repotting may be
attended to at once. The soil for this purpose
should consist of rich turfy loam and a little
decayed manure, with a good sprinkling of sifted
lime rubble to keep the roots in a healthy condition.
The pots should be quite clean and not too large.
Pot firmly and give a good soaking of clear water
as soon as potting is finished. A little crushed
bone may be mixed with the soil %vith advantage.
Stand the newly potted trees on a bed of ashes
and secure them against strong wind.
Strawberry Plants in Pots will now require
careful watering. Remove all side growths and
keep the surface of the soil quite free from weeds.
Pot up the remainder of the plants with as little
delay as possible.
Early Hamburgh Vines.— .\ll lateral growths
may be removed from these Vines, and the shoots
shortened in order to plump up the buds near the
base of the spurs. Keep the ventilators fully
open at night, and syringe the Vines in order to
retain the remaining foliage as long as possible.
Plants Onder Glass.
Tuberous Begonias which have been in flower
for some time should receive frequent supplies of
liquid manure with a view to lengthening the
flowering period. Spring-raised seedlings will still
benefit by potting, for, if once allowed to become
stunted in small pots, many of the flowers drop
before they are fully developed. Employ sufficient
fire-heat to keep the air dry, and ventilate freely
during warm days.
Calceolarias. — Do not allow these plants to
become stunted in small pots or to become dry
at the roots, as, no matter what the treatment
may be afterwards, they will never present the
same appearance as plants which have been grown
without a check. Keep them in a cool pit and
damp the pots and their surroundings frequently.
Ventilate freely and protect from sun.
Carnation Souvenir de la Mahnaison.— Young
plants whicli were layered early in July will now
be ready for potting into 4-inch pots. The compost
may consist of good turfy loam and leaf-soil,
with a good sprinkling of sifted lime rubble and
silver sand. Pot firmly and place the plants in
a cool house or pit.
The Flower Garden.
Propagating Bedding Plants.— This work must
be accomplished with as little delay as possible,
so that the young stock may be well' rooted before
the season is too far advanced. When sufficient
Pelargonium cuttings have been secured, Verbenas,
Heliotropes, Coleuses. Iresines and various other
plants should be propagated, and for these a close,
•cold frame will be necessary. Let the cuttings
be as stocky and short-jointed as possible, and
select only such shoots as are free from
flowers. When the cuttings are ready, they
must be made firm in fine sandy soil, either in
pots or pans.
Anchusa italica. — Now is the proper time to
secure a stock of this indispensable border plant,
which is easily propagated by cuttings of the roots.
Plants which have finished flowering may be lifted
and the root cuttings prepared in 'the same
maimer as Seakale. They may be inserted in
boxes of sandy soil with a propagating dibber
and covered with soil. Place them in a close,
•cold pit until a fair amount of growth has been
made.
Salvia patens may also be propagated now.
Select short-jointed cuttings and place them singly
in small pots. If kept in a close, cool pit they will
soon make roots and the young tubers can be
potted in spring. They will then make good plants
for the mixed border in May.
Pentstemons are flowering freely this season,
and the leading shoots should be removed as soon
as they have finished flowering, in order to produce
stocky cuttings for next season. Mrs, Fulford is a
grand variety with long spikes of bright red flowers,
and is worthy of extensive cultivation.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Apples and Pears. — Early varieties of .-Vpples
and Pears should be carefully gathered before
they become too ripe, and place'd in the storeroom.
Later varieties which will keep for a time will be
of great value this season, owing to the scarcity
of foreign fruit ; therefore these should be pro-
tected by netting, especiallv if birds are trouble-
some. Expose the fruits to sun bv the removal
of any leaves which overhang them. Anv large
single specimens may be secured to the trees by
matting, and to secure their full development a
watering with liquid manure may be frequently
given. Plums should be often examined and
the fruits gathered before thev become too
ripe, or many of them may split.
The Kitchen Garden.
Parsley. — Another sowmg of Parslev raav be
made in a sheltered position for use during the
spring, and where box frames can be placed over
the crop durmg sharp weather, This is sometimes
a useful crop during February and March, after
which the frames may be removed for some other
purpose. Early sowii Parsley may be cut close
to the ground now in order to produce a quantity
of stocky growths for winter use.
Beetroot. — The earliest sown Beets should be
lifted and stored in dry sand before thev become
overgrown, or the roots' will be of no value. Later
sowings may be allowed to remain in the ground
for some time yet.
Tomatoes out of doors should have the foliage
well trimmed, so that the crop may be fully exposed
to the sun. Water freely with liquid' manure,
stir the soil about the roots, and top-dress with
artificial manure previous to applying clear
water.
Onions. — Many of the spring-sown Onions
will be ready for lifting, and this should be done
before the bulbs commence a second growth.
Cabbage. — Another sowing of Cabbage seed
may be made now. as early sown plants sometimes
suffer if they are too far advanced during the winter.
Sow in an open position and prick out the plants
as soon as large enough to handle. Flower of
Spring, Milecross Marrow and Early OfTenham
are good varieties for this sowing.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Onions. — As a rule Onions are looking well,
but owing to the recent unsettled weather they
are much too green at this date, and in consequence
of this second growth there is evidence of a good
many thick necks. These growths should be
cheeked as soon as possible by having the necks
twisted to encourage the swelling of the bulb.
Those that are showing signs of ripening ought to
be pulled up and spread out to dry.
Tomatoes. — The young plants from seed sown
at the beginning of the month should now be readv
for potting on. It will be as well to pot them into
the fruiting pots right away, just covering the
ball, when a little soil can be added from time to
time. Admit air night and day to promote a
sturdy growth, and all laterals should be pinched
out as they appear. When a sufficient number
of fruits have set, feeding may commence and
the temperature be increased somewhat.
Lettuce. — Another sowing of some of the hardier
varieties may now be made, and as soon as they
are large enough to handle should be pricked out
into frames or pots which have been made up
close to the glass, only protecting with the lights
when there is danger of frost. This batch can,
of course, be grown on outside for a time and after-
wards transplanted into frames. This, however,
must be determined by local conditions.
General Remarks. — With the recent showery
weather there is sure to be an abundant crop of
weeds appearing, and. if these are allowed to get
ahead, it will be no light task to keep them in
check. Every effort, therefore, should be made
on fine days to get the hoe and rake at work.
Continue to clear off all crops and vegetable matter
that are no longer required, as these soon become
offensive.
The Flower Garden.
Herbaceous Paeonies.— These, Uke many other
herbaceous plants, resent frequent disturbance
at the roots, nor is it necessary to replant them
often, pro\ided they are mulched with good manure 1
and soil at least once a vear. Where, however, I
the soil seems to be thoro'ughlv exhausted, it will
be wise to have them replanted, and this may be
successfully done, provided extra care is exercised
in lifting them. Should the weather be favourable
for planting, there is perhaps no better time than
the present to do this work.
Pentstemons. — Where a large stock of these 1
brilliant summer-flowering plants is required, 7
a start should be made at once to secure the
necessary stock of cuttings. Some difficulty may
be experienced in getting cuttings from some of
the better varieties, owing to the cold weather
we had in the early summer. If that is so, the
flower shoots should be cut over, and in a very
short time they will throw up quite a number
of young shoots. These, if carefully managed,
will root up to the end of the month. Although
Pentstemons will root freely in a cold frame, it
is important that they should be kept close
for at least three weeks and shaded on bright
days.
The Rock Garden. — During the early part of
next month the rockery will require almost daily
attention. It often happens in the stress of work
that some of the smaller-growing plants have been
crowded out by stronger-growing ones and are
inclined to be lost sight of. Examine careful Iv
a portion each day, removing the intruders that
are smothering the weaker ones, and it is more
than likely that the latter are almost exhausted
for the want of moisture, owing to the position
they occupy in the rockery. Continue to save
seed of such as are required for increasing the stock.
Such lovely specimens as the Ramondias cannot
be too numerous, and in consequence all likely seed-
pods should be secured.
The Hardy Fruit Garden. I
Red Currants. — -As soon as convenient after I
the crop has been gathered, the voung growths I
should be shortened and the tops' of the bushes
thinned out so that light and air may reach everv
part of the bush. Carefully hoe and rake off ail
weeds and rubbish, and if the bushes are old, the
surface should be mulched with some good farmyard
manure.
Early Pears. — It is important to remember
that some of the early varieties, such as Clapp's
Favourite and Jargonelle, should be sent direct
to the table, as these do not keep if scored. It
wUl, therefore, be necessary to go over these
varieties almost every day and gather those
that are ripe. The best way of testing them is
by lifting up the fruit, and if it comes away
easily it is quite fit to be gathered ; but on
no account gather these early Pears until they
are ripe.
Wasps. — .\ thorough search should be made
for the nests, and have them destroyed by cyanide
of potassium, as previously advised. Strange
to say, it is at this late season that most destruction
is done, not only among choice Pears outside,
but among the equally choice Muscat Grapes under
glass. Bottles containing sweetened beer will be
found good traps.
Fruits Under Glass.
Late Grapes. — The later varieties will now be
colouring, and it will be as well to have some
warmth in the pipes, so that the top ventilators
can be kept open during the night. Should there be
an excessive rainfall, it will be necessary to protect
the outside border to prevent the berries from
splitting. Where this is at all possible, there is
nothing better for this purpose than sheets of
corrugated iron laid so that the water will draiu_
away from the house.
Melons. — As this late batch comes into flower,
no time should be lost in getting one or two fruits
set on each plant. To ensure a quick growth,
all laterals and surplus growths should be kept
well pinched out. Guard against too much moisture
at the roots, which \vi>uld encourage canker ; if
this should be present, apply some lime to the
affected part and ventilate more freely.
John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopetoun Gardens, South Queen'iferty, N.B.
/UGUST 22, 191 4.]
THE GARDEN.
431
ROSE-GROWING IN TOWN
GARDENS.
IN these troublous days the natioiial anxiety
is likely to affect one's interest in the
Rose garden, but to those whose part
it is to remain behind, where brooding
can afford no benefit, it is a relief to turn
the mind to an occupation both beneficial
and inexpensive. In the ordinary way raan>-
would now be leaving for holidays, and when
this is the case it is necessary to have the plants
in a well-cared-for condition before going away.
There is not a great deal which requires to be
done, for at this period aphides have almost ceased
to be troublesome, and caterpillars are met with
less frequently. First and foremost, the trees
should be carefully sprayed at least twice during
the week before they are left, on the last occasion
as near as possible to the time fixed for departure.
Secondly, unless it is desired that others shall
have the flowers while the grower is away, it is
better to cut all the buds that are showing colour,
as these will be littering the beds on his return,
and their removal will assist the plants in forming
stronger growths for autumn flowers. Lastly,
the beds should have a final hoeing.
Now, while the colour effects are still apparent,
is the best time for planning alterations in our
Rose-beds. Many faults may be seen at present
which in winter-time, with only our plans or
labels to remind us of them, are apt to be over-
looked. Where there have been, as sometimes
happens, several failures together, one must
endeavour to trace the cause, so that a remedy
may follow. Occasionally one finds that certain
beds are not favourable, and the reason may not
be apparent until these are examined and dug
over in the autumn. Insufficient drainage, want
of lime, or soil that is too light, are among the
most frequent causes of failure. But what will
suit one variety quite well in the way of soil may
prove detrimental to another that is equally
free growing. A town grower must leam to
recognise his limitations, and it is a wise plan to
avoid giving up valuable space to those kinds
which " might do better another season." If
a fair start has been given them, Roses which
will do well in his garden should already have
proved their vigour of growth, if not their freedom
in blooming. Those that have gone back or are
otherwise unsuitable should stand condemned.
Every grower of Roses would delight in budding
his own trees if only the means were at hand.
Those who have space to spare for it should obtain
a few Briars from a nurseryman during the winter
months, but many are unable to find room for
them. Possibly they might find enjoyment in
trying just one or two, and it is not usually a
difficult matter to find a spare corner at the hack
of a Rose-bed where these might conveniently
be placed.
Briars for next year's budding may be
obtained easily enough by planting an occasional
" sucker," selecting those from dwarf plants
preferably, as these can generally be put in with
the root forming quite near the surface. It is
not advisable to try to rebud standards which
have failed, because the trouble is usually at
the root, and a second attempt is as little likely
to succeed as the first ; but those who can bud
successfully may have much better standards
by planting the Briars and allowing them to
remain undisturbed where they have been
budded. P. L. Goddaed.
TRIAL OF VIOLAS IN
SCOTLAND.
DURING the years 1912-13 the Royal
i Horticultural Society made exten-
I sive trials of Violas in their ex-
' perimental grounds at Wisley,
Surrey, and the floral committee
of that society made such awards
to these plants for bedding purposes as seemed
to them desirable. It occurred to Mr. Robert
Fife of Messrs. Dobbie and Co., Edinbiurgh,
that it might be desirable to have a repetition
of these trials in Scotland for the purpose
of ascertaining whether the characteristics of
the various varieties shown in the South would
be maintained in the North. Messrs. Dobbie
and Co. accordingly put themselves into com-
munication with the various growers who had
sent plants to Wisley for trial, and the result
was a whole-hearted co-operation to make the
Scottish trial a success. The major portion
of the Violas were contributed by Messrs. Dobbie
and Co., and the firms who were good enough
to offer their assistance were Messrs. William
Artindale and Son, Sheffield ; Messrs. Dickson
and Sons, Newtownards ; Messrs. J. Forbes
(Hawick), Limited ; Messrs. James Grieve and
Sons, Edinburgh ; Messrs. Lister and Son,
Rothesay ; Mr. W. H. Morter, City Gardener,
Birmingham ; Mr. Charles Turner, Slough ;
Messrs. R. Wallace and Co., Colchester ; Mr. B.
Wood, Liverpool ; and Mr. G. Wood, Hawick,
who all supplied the plants for trial free of
charge. .'Altogether there were 229 varieties on
trial.
The Violas, six plants of each variety, were
planted early in April, and on the whole have made
very satisfactory growth. Some old favomites,
however, have not done so well in the trials as
might have been expected, although in the ordinary
nursery beds adjoining they appear in their usual
good character. This would seem to show that
to get a proper test a two years' trial, such as that
conducted at Wisley, is absolutely necessary.
The judging of the varieties took place on August 7,
and the committee appointed was a particularly
strong one, including such gentlemen as Mr. D.
King, nurseryman, Edinburgh, president of the
Scottish Horticultural Association ; Mr. James
Dobbie, a vice-president of the Scottish Horti-
cultural Association and Superintendent of Public
Parks and Gardens, Leith ; Mr. Charles Comfort,
The Gardens, Broomfield, Davidson's Mains,
Midlothian, past president of the Scottish Horti-
cultural Association ; Mr. James Grieve, sen.,
Redbraes Nursery, Edinburgh, a well-known
Viola authority ; Mr. Matthew Todd, florist,
Edinburgh, past president of the Scottish Horti-
cultural Association ; and Mr. James Whytock,
head-gardener to the Duke of Buccleuch, Dalkeith,
past president of the Scottish Horticultural
Association. The following awards were made,
* indicating the highest quaUty of bedding
varieties, and t the next best for that purpose :
White. — * Mina, Swan, Virgin White and
Alexandra, t Countess of Hopetoun, Purity,
Queen of Whites and Snowflake.
Cream, sulphur or primrose. — ■* Lady Knox,
Margaret Wood and Primrose.
Light yellow. — t Ardwell Gem and Greivii.
Deep yellow. — * Bute or Bute Yellow, Moseley
Perfection, Queen's Park, Redbraes Yellow and
Mrs. C. B. Douglas, t Lord Elcho, Kingcup,
Royal Sovereign, Sunshine and Lizzie Paul.
Light blue. — * W. H. Woodgate. f Buxton
Blue and Perdita.
Blue. — * Dairymaid and Royal Scot, f John
Young, Mrs. Maclean and Ralph.
Mauve, lilac or heliotrope.- — * Bridal Morn,
Mrs. George Wood, Maggie Mott and Dumbryan.
t Fred WiUiams, Kitty Bell, Mrs. Norris-Elye
and Tottie.
Purple and purple- violet. — * Archie Grant,
Eminence and Jubilee, t Rosy Morn.
Crimson. — * Arabella, Crimson King and J. B.
Riding, f Amy Barr.
Rose or pink. — * Lady Clonbrock, Maid of
Lome and Tom Wilson, f Mrs. J. H. Rowland.
Edged. — ■* James PiUing, Harry Bamber,
Waverley, Agnes Kay, Annabel Lee, Colonel
Plumer and Jessie, t Thomas Bell, Mrs. Chichester
and The Mearns.
Bronze. — t Bronze Kintore.
Violetta. — * Compacta alba, Lyric, Princess
May, Violetta and White Dot.
Gracilis. — * Lutea and Purple Robe.
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
Every department of horticulture is represented in The
Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions
relating to matters upon which they wish expert advice.
The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
but he U'ill not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, hoioever, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed^ he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.
As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It 7mist be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.
The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary Qpntributio7is ichich he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.
Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C.
ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND AUSWERS.— The Editor endeavours to
make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assut-
ance, no matter what the branch ol gardening may he. and
with thai object makes a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely leritten on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation fie
mayldesire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should he on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should he clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or tnoss, not cotion-ioool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should he sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not^characieristic of the plant. Letters
on business sliould he'jent to the Publisher.
FLOWER GARDEN.
DISEASE AMONG SWEET PEAS (Rosella) .—T\\c
Sweet Peas sent are attacked by the wilt disease, due
to the fungus Fusarium vasinfectum. No cure is known
for this disease, and preventive measures should be taken
another year in the direction of planting the Sweet Peas
on a different site, liming the soil well, and giving a
dressing of siilphatc of potash. Flowers of sulphur
dusted on to the soil might check the spread of the disease
SWEET PEA STEMS FOB EXAMINATION (An Old
Subscriber). — Sweet Peas usually suller most from the
root rot where tlie soil tends to hold water or is rich in
organic matter. Those you send are badly attacked
by the fungus Thielavia basicola, which is the cause of
the' trouble. See reply to " Eosella " for preventivu
measures.
POTENTILLAS (E. B. J..).— The genus Potentilla is
a somewhat extensive one. and many species are of
botanical interest only. Some of the indispensables are
alba- alpestris. yellow; rupestris, white ; Tongei, orange
and crimson, one of the most charmmg ; argyrophyila
atrosantniinea ; hopwoodiana, yellow, buff and carmine ;
nitida pale yellow ; Miss Willmott and Gibson's Scarlet,
the finest of the red shades ; and viUosa, bright yellow.
Ipart from these are the hybrids of the florists' set, most
of which are very free and profuse flowermg. P. chryso-
eraspeda is a form of aurea. The other kind mentioned
is not known to us.
432
THE GARDEN.
[August 22, 1914.
TREES AND SHRUBS.
TREATMENT OF OLD HOLLY HEDGE (M. P.. Surrey).
— Your old Holly hedge should be clipped each year
about the end of August. It is a good plan to remove all
dead leaves from the hedge every few years. They may
be shaken from among the branches by the aid of a stout
stick and then raked up. After clearing away the leaves,
give a good surface-dressing of well-decayed manure.
A good watering vdih cow-manure water or fish manure
dissolved in water may be given with advantage in May
or August each year. Where dead places occur, remove
the plants and as much of the old soil as possible ; then
fill the hole with good soil and repair the hedge with
new plants in May or September.
ROSE GARDEN.
BLACK SPOT {Taunton).— lih^ Rose is attacked by
the fungus Actinonema rosse, causing black spot. It
is a troublesome disease to combat, but we think the
best results are likely to be obtained by frequent spraying
\nth Bordeaux mixture.
ROSE ALBERIC BARBIER (C. E. F. M.).—We have
never kno\vii this Rose to sport. Probably the stock
upon which it is budded had been pre\iously budded
with another kind. Your description sounds like that of
Diabolo, and if you can send us a piece of growth and
bloom, wo could perhaps tcH you definitely.
IMPROVING COLLECTION OF EXHIBITION ROSES
ets.
THE EDITOR'S TABLE.
A Blue-Flowered Plant from Bedford. — A
correspondent who uses the initials " B. B."
very Idndly sends a flowering spray of Cyno-
glossum amabile from Kempston Hoo, Bedford-
shire. This is a very charming plant, worthy
of every encouragement, and has a more brandling
habit than other species that we Imow. Our
correspondent writes ; " I am sending a spray
of Cynoglossum amabile in case you may not
have seen it. It is, I believe, a new importation
from China. Seeds were sown under glass last
autimrn, and the plants put out in the open border
in May. Seeds were also sown in January, but
tliese plants are not yet in flower. Though the
individual blooms are small, the effect of the
branching sprays is very pleasing, and the col'iur
is a good clear blue. Each plant has five or
si.K sprays, mostly larger than the one I send.
The height is 2^ feet. Seed seems to be setting;
very freely. I thinli this is a decided acquisition
for the summer border."
International Sweet Pea Championship :
Competition for the " Simplicitas " Trophy.—
Owing to the Perthshire Sweet Pea and Rose
Society's Show at Perth having been abandoned,
the Boundary Chemical Company, Limited,
Liverpool, have decided that under the circum-
stances tlie trophy will be competed for at Pertli
Show, 1915. The trophy for Wales at Carhsle
Show, 1913, was won by Mr. T. Jones, Ruabon,
and a gold medal has been forwarded to him in
commemoration of the event.
Home-Grown Fruits and Vegetables. — In
view of the special importance at the present
time of securing that the home-grown supplies
of foodstuffs are used to the best advantage
in the public interest, with due regard to future
requirements, the President of the Board of
.-Agriculture and Fisheries has appointed the
following gentlemen to serve as a consultative
committee : The Right Hon. Sir Ailwyn Fellowes
(chairman), Mr. Charles Bathurst, M.P., Mr.
Charles Bidwell, Mr. H. Trustram Eve, Mr. S. W.
Farmer, Mr. C. B. Fisher, Mr. E. M. Nunneley,
Mr. Francis H. Padwick, Mr. George Scoby,
.Mr. G. C. Smyth- Richards, Mr. R. Stratton, the
Hon. Edward G. Strutt and Mr. Christopher
Turner. The first meeting of the committee
was held on August 10 at the offices of the Sur-
veyors' Institution, 12, Great George Street,
Westminster, to which address any communications
may be sent to the joint secretaries.
Distribution of Surplus Plants. — An appeal to
horticulturists, both owners of private gardens
and market growers, is being made by the
Board of Agriculture and Fisheries to preserve
for distribution to allotment holders and
cottagers their surplus stocks of seedling vege-
tables suitable for autumn planting in the dis-
trict. These seedling plants, usually destroyed
after the growers' own requirements have been
satisfied, might, under present conditions,
prove most useful. It is suggested that the
owners of private gardens should distribute their
surplus plants locally, either direct or through
relief committees. In districts in which allotments
are numerous, the owners of large gardens might
be able, at little inconvenience or expense, to sow
durmg this month Cabbages suitable for planting
out in October, and so provide plants for those who
themselves have no facilities for raising seedlings.
Timely assistance in supplying plants would largely
increase the comfort of cottagers in the coming
year. Market growers who may have larger
stocks of surplus seedlings than could be utilised
locally are invited to commmiicate with the secre-
tary of the Royal Horticultural Society (" Care
of Food " Committee), Vincent Square, West-
minster, S.W., who have generously placed their
services at the State's disposal for this work.
Although there are large stocks of food in the
coimtry, it is the duty of every occupier of land to
avoid waste, and by forethouglit and consideration
of the needs of others to alleviate the liardsliips
that a rise in the price of foodstuffs will eittaiL
•,* The Yearly Subscription to THK GardBN is : liUaiut
6.S. ad. ; Forei^. is. M.
the too rapid multiplication of new
varieties, and the disease under notice
there is a definite connection. Work-
ing on this thesis, the conclusion has
been reached, by actual experience,
that disease is somewhat less pre-
valent among naturally and normally
grown plants than among those speci-
ally treated for exhibition purposes. To
myself, therefore, the inference seems
clear, and I suggest that the essential
aim should be to regain possession of
the plant's natural original con-
stitution in order to replace that which
has been, generally speaking, artificially
obtained. This will, of course, take
considerable time. Granted ; but a
disease which has now been with us in a more
or less degree practically since the commencement
of the rise of the flower in popularity as an exhi-
bition subject cannot be mastered hurriedly.
As to the actual process of the suggestion put
forward, a move in the right direction might be
made by horticultural societies holding confer-
ences on the subject, inserting appeals in their
schedules, circularising their members, or in other
ways offering suggestions. Many of the trade
growers, too, would need approaching ; and
conferences of judges might be useful. To obtain
a new lease of healthy life for our beautiful annua>
I would even suggest the elimination of com-
petitive classes of Sweet Peas from our schedules
for a time. No effort can be too great tending
towards purification of the seeds and plants —
B. W. Lewis.
ROSA MOSCHATA ALBA BY OPENING IN THE LARGE YEW
HEDGE IN THE SPEAKER'S GARDEN AT CAMPSEA ASHE.
used for bedding purposes. Its merits, however,
as a climbing plant for the greenhouse are not
generally recognised. Planted out in a prepared
greenhouse border, it will grow rapidly, and soon
furnish a considerable space of roof or rafter.
The long, slender shoots hang down for a consider-
able distance, and the round clusters of flowers
are produced therefrom during the whole of the
summer and autumn. Under glass the flowers are
a good deal paler in tint than when fully exposed
to the summer 'sun. — H. P.
The Blue Passion Flower. — It would be
interesting to have comparative experience of
the hardiness (jr otherwise of Passiflora caerulea,
the blue Passion Flower, from various parts of
the- United Kingdom. So far as I can learn,
it has not been extensively attempted in Scotland,
but I have seen plants doing well for several
September 5, 1914-]
THE GARDEN.
443
GARDENS OF TO-DAY.
CAMPSEA ASHE, SUFFOLK.
A T a period such as this, when the Govern-
/\ ment of Great Britain is in the minds
/ \ of the English-speaking race the
/ % world over, it seems appropriate to
•^ *■ publish a few particulars of the
gardens at Campsea Ashe, the country
residence of the Right Hon. J. W. Lowther, P.C,
M.P., Speaker of the House of Commons. As
those who are familiar with horticultural matters
know, the Speaker is very keenly interested in
gardening, and it is through his personal kindness
that we are able to give our readers some idea
of the beautiful grounds that surround his country
seat. It was a scorching hot day in July when
we were privileged to visit Campsea Ashe, which
is situated within a few miles of
the ancient to%vn of Wickham
Market, and under the guidance
of Mr. Andrews, the head-gardener,
who has held the position for twenty-
seven years, we spent a most
enjoyable and interesting day.
Of the mansion itself, which dates
back to a remote period, it is not
necessary to say more than that it
is situated amid spacious lawns and
fine trees, so that it forms a restful
resort for the Speaker and Mrs.
Lowther when the relaxation of their
strenuous duties enables them to
take a well-earned rest. From the
north entrance we find a charming
view between tall Yew hedges and
a beautiful avenue of Lime trees, and
it may be of interest here to note
that Mr. Andrews, in making some
alterations last spring, found it
necessary to move part of one of the
Yew hedges to another position, a
feat that was successfully a-ccom-
plished, notwithstanding the fact that
the plants were over ten feet high
and of considerable age, On the west
and south fronts the house has as a
surround beautiful, well-kept and
spacious lawns, in which stand
some of the finest Cedars in the
country. The tallest of these
is about one himdred and three
feet high, while another giant
has a perfect trunk with a
girth of 21 feet, 6 feet from the ground.
Situated about sixty yards from the south front
is a fine old Hackberry tree, Celtis occidentalis,
one of the few that exist in this country, and near
by stands, sentinel-like, a magnificent Copper
Beech, a tree that any owner would be proud of.
In this direction the lawn leads down to a magnifi-
cent Bamboo hedge some nine feet high and as
much in diameter. This, Mr. Andrews assured
us, had all been obtained from one plant of
Arundinaria anceps, which in a subsequent conver-
sation with the Speaker we learned was sent
by his brother. Sir Gerard Lowther, from the
Japanese Legation in Tokio in 1895. We doubt
if there is a hedge of its kind to equal it any-
where in the United Kingdom.
On the west front the lawn leads to a very
charming and well-kept oval-shaped bowling
green, which is surrounded by a tall and quaint
clipped Yew hedge, towering in some places to
a height of over twenty feet, part of it being
shown in one of the illustrations. At the far end
of the bowling green some very fine Cedars form
a restful arch, and are a striking tribute to the
foresight and good taste of whoever was privileged
to plant them. On the right of the bowling green
one comes upon two slightly sunk gardens, one
consisting of flower-beds set in verdant turf
and filled with blazing plants of Pelargonium
Paul Crampel ; and the other a charming Rose
garden replete with rambler and bush Roses,
many of them being the old-fashioned fragrant
sorts that in too many places have had to give
way to more modern, though less pleasing varieties.
Passing along through the Rose garden and
down some stone steps, the visitor comes to a
charming little rock garden that owes its existence
to the suggestion of Mrs. Lowther and the
ingenuity of Mr, Andrews, Subsequent to the
formal garden with Lily pool in the centre, a
portion of which is shown in one of the illustrations.
The retaining wall is of old red brick, to harmonise
with the dwelling-house, the paths being well
laid with old paving-stones. Between these the
beautiful little Maiden Pink, Diantlfus deltoides,
was flourishing as we have seldom seen it do,
while dwarf Campanulas, Myosotis, Alyssum,
Iceland Poppies, Sedums and many other kinds
of low-growing plants have also been cleverly
inserted so as to give a pleasing and restful effect.
In the Lily pool we found a number of beautiful
hybrid Nymphsas, such as ellisiana, robinsoniana
and odorata rosea, just opening their first flowers
as an earnest of the display that was to come
later. Two broad terraced borders surround
the Lily pool, the upper of these being planted
with pink Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums, and the
lower with Heliotrope Mrs. Lowther, a very
MIXED FLOWER BORDERS IN THE SPEAKER S GARDEN.
Speaker taking over the gardens, this was a rough
woodland comer, but now it provides a congenial
home for many kinds of dwarf vegetation, Dianthus
deltoides was doing particularly well, as were
many of the choicer Campanulas, Forget-me-nots
and a host of other plants. In the centre, and
bordered by sandstone blocks, is a miniature
pool, in which some of the dwarf Nymphsea hybrids
were flourishing and giving excellent promise of a
floral display later in the season. Under an
overhanging tree a large stone slab, arched with
two ancient whalebones, forms a favourite seat
of the Speaker on hot days, and it does not need
a very vivid gift of imagination to believe that
this simple seat, set amid such peaceful and pleasant
surroundings, is far more congenial to him than
the more exalted and highly respected seat in
another and more strenuous place.
On the left of the bowling green we find a second
modem addition to the grounds, viz., a sunk
beautiful and vigorous variety that origmated at
Hutton John, the Speaker's former residence in
Cumberland. At one end of the Lily pool, and
plainly shown in the illustration, is a fine old
lead tank bearing the date 1755, and on pedestals
by the steps leading from the house are two magni-
ficent bronze vases that were, we believe, rescued
from obscurity by the Speaker some years ago.
Running from the east side of the mansion, the
visitor finds a beautiful terrace walk under one
of the finest clipped Yew hedges in the cormtry. This
hedge is over a hundred yards long, at least twenty-
five feet high and over twelve feet in diameter.
Bordering the other side of the walk is a long,
formal Lily pond with sloping grass banks, and
on the surface of the water beautiful Water Lilies
nestle in abundance, whUe numerous carp disport
themselves in the crystal water.
The old kitchen garden, which is divided from
the pleasure grounds by the Bamboo hedge already
444
THE GARDEN.
[September 5, 1914.
referred to on the one side and the long Yew hedge
on the other, is now mainly devoted to flowers,
borders of choice herbaceous plants meeting the
visitor at every turn ; while intersecting the various
plots are Rose pergolas and pillars, supporting
such excellent varieties as American Pillar, White
Dorothy Perkins, Hiawatha and Rosa moschata
alba, intermingled with good Clematises. By
the fruit garden we were pleased to find a hedge,
some eight feet high, composed of the hardy
Fuchsia Riccartonii and Rambler Rose Dorothy
Perkins, the two forming a very effective and
pleasing combination. Rose Fellenberg is largely
used here as informal hedges, and a pleasing com-
bination, part of which is shown
in the small illustration on
page 442, was brought about by a
large plant of Buddleia variabilis
veitchianus and another of Rosa
moschata alba, the lilac blue
flowers of the former harmonising
perfectly with the white Roses.
One might dwell long and
pleasantly on the many beautiful
features of the woodland surroimd-
ing Campsea Ashe, did space per-
mit. It must suffice, however, to
say that one of the best silver
variegated Elms we have ever seen,
a noble tree some seventy-five feet
high, and a magnificent specimen
of the comparatively new Buddleia
Colvillei, with its large clusters of
rose - coloured but unpleasantly
scented flowers, are to be seen.
In the plant-houses we were
charmed with a splendid collection
of Show and Regal Pelargoniums,
old-fashioned plants that we under-
stand Mrs. Lowther is particularly
fond of, and which we so seldom
find well grown nowadays. Bou-
gainvilleas. Orchids, Bouvardias,
Lilies, Nerines and many other
flowermg plants are also well
grown, and the fruit-houses, with
their splendid crops of Muscat
Grapes, Peaches, Apricots and
Melons, provide excellent testimony
to the skill of the head-gardener.
'Campsea Ashe is a place over which
to linger lovingly, and those who
are privileged to visit this restful
spot will find more than a little that
is beautiful and interesting in the
charming grounds and gardens.
is characteristic of the autunuial growth of
many varieties. Where red rust or black spot
exists, carefully collect and bum all fallen
leaves, also cut off any affected ones that
may still hang upon the plants. One cannot
be too persevering in this just now and onwards,
or the germs will increase rapidly. Remedies and
helps against these diseases have frequently been
given, and should be followed immediately the
foe appears.
A little summer pruning may be done, especi-
ally among the climbers that flower well only
once during the season. It is better to cut
awav the exhausted wood now than to let it
SWEET PEA NOTES.
stale flowers
as much as
AMONG THE ROSES IN
EARLY AUTUMN.
To have our late Roses at their
best demands a little special
attention now. Do not let any
or seed-trusses remain. Cut off
possible of the old and partly decaying foliage,
as this is only too apt to retain insects and
red rust. Free use of the hoe and a
thorough watering are also of great benefit,
and sure to pay. It is now also that
mildew is more likely to appear, owing to
the great changes of midday and early morn-
ing temperatures that are entirely beyond our
control, and I advise a free use of the
various cieterrents to this disease, which will
otherwise spoil the deeper-coloured foliage that
VIEW IN THE SUNK GARDEN AT CAMPSEA ASHE. THE YEWS
THE BACKGROUND ENCLOSE THE BOWLING GREEN.
continue to draw nourishment, only to be cut out
early next year at the usual pruning-time. Thinning
out now gives a chance for healthier and better
matured growth of the long maiden rods that are
of greatest service early next season. Look over
the earlier-worked buds, and rebud where failures
are discovered. This may be done until early
September during most seasons, so long as
the stock is in active growth. Some of the
early buds, too, will need the ties loosened,
especially if they have commenced new growth
upon their own account, as several early worked
buds do. A. P.
Autumn Culture. — The season, now fast
waning, causes the Sweet Pea grower to turn
his thoughts to the future, and he does so with
the hope that next year's weather will be a
little kinder and more congenial to the Sweet Pea
than the present season has been. Certainly
for the past four years the weather has not been
favourable to its luxuriant growth, and the
devotees of the Sweet Pea have had many anxious
moments. The year igir was one of blazing
sun and prolonged drought ; 191 2 followed with
a sunless summer and prevailing cold winds ;
the dismal weather of last year is
still fresh in the memory of all ;
while this season has brought
such a plague of green fly which,
in many cases, has totally defied
all efforts of extermination. Yet,
notwithstanding all these adverse
circumstances, a decided improve-
ment in quality of flower has been
the outstanding feature in almost
every show, and one has been
curiously interested in asking the
methods of culture adopted by the
successful exhibitors. With very
few exceptions, one found that
" autumn culture " was the secret
of their success. I believe that
comparatively few growers realise
fully the value of autumn work
in the culture of Sweet Peas, yet
in such weather as that of this year
the spring-sown plants have not
had a chance. It would be well if
more growers recognised that their
operations would have a greater
chance of success if begun earlier.
Purchase of Seed. — Many
growers not only neglect to prepare
their soil in the autumn, but they
also postpone ordering their seeds
until the early months of the year,
wlien of necessity the supply is
greatly diminished. Hence, all
along, their chances of success are
seriously hampered. The enthu-
siast, of course, has selected his list
of novelties that he intends to grow
next season from the exhibits of the
shows he has visited, and doubt-
less he has likewise ordered them.
Yet the ordinary grower also is
well advised to get his seeds as
early as possible, and the following
dozen varieties (seeds of which can
be procured from any firm whose
name is in the advertisement
columns of The Garden) can be
recommended : Dobbie's Cream,
Maud Holmes, Elfrida Pearson, Elsie Herbert, Etta
Dyke or King White, Illuminator, King Manoel,
Lavender George Herbert, Margaret Atlee, May
Campbell, Mrs. Cuthbertsou and Rosabelle.
Preparation of Soil. — This has been fully dealt
with in previous notes, but one would reiterate
that the work must be done before the winter
rains make it impracticable. Again, it is absolutely
impossible to over-estimate the importance of
deep cultivation in relation to the conservation
of soil moisture, which determines growth equally
as much as, if not more than, the amount of plant
food in the soil.
IN
September 5, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
445
Autumn Sowing. — One would like to write
of the many mistakes one has made, and, maybe,
such an article would not be without profit, for
in the growing of the Sweet Pea every mistake,
duly recognised and repented of, is really a step
onwards and portends future success.
The Time of Sowing is of vast importance.
Seeds should not be put in too early ; yet, on the
other hand, unless the plants are well rooted
before winter is well in, the seeds might with more
profit have been kept in the seed packets. I
started growing seeds from the same packet in
various ways, sowing at varying periods from
July onwards. Although once seeds sown in
July were a success, yet unless a grower, like
myself, experiments for the pleasure derived
therefrom, it cannot be recommended. I record
the experiment simply for its interest, and also
because it is illustrative of the possibilities when
soil and weather conditions are
in harmony. Had the soil been a
heavy clay, the p'ants would
have "damped off." Plants from
seeds sown in July were planted
in well-cultivated, porous soil and
cut down in September, new
growths shooting up from the
base. These withstood the mild
winter that followed, growing
away and yielding magnificent
flowers in early May. How-
ever, September and October are
the best months for autumn sow-
ing, and the following plan, to
my mind, is the best, and can
be carried out by any grower
with a fair amount of space and
time at his disposal.
Planting the Seeds.— Chip all
hard-skinned seeds to get a regular
and quick germination, and sow
in boxes or pots (I used pots)
the last week in September. By
the end of October the plants
will be well up and able to with-
stand a fair amount of cold. Do
not imagine that you can im-
prove them by applying heat.
The plants do not require
" coddling," and will not suffer,
even if frost comes, so long
as they have plenty of drainage.
Stand in a frame on a bed
of ashes or shingle, and if they
are frozen, just prevent the sun
from shining directly on them until the frost
is gone, and you will find that the plants
thus treated will come scathless through the
winter.
In January prepare a cold frame as follows :
On a bed of ashes place a layer of well-decayed
manure ; on this put upturned turves, following
with a shallow covering of about an inch of
good potting soil. Into this plant the seed-
lings, allowing a space of 6 inches between
them. You will find that the basal shoots will
grow rapidly and the roots will find their way
through the turves into the manure at the
bottom. You will have to put small sticks
to these plants, as it is important that each
plant be kept separate from the other and not
allowed to become entwined together. When
the time for planting out arrives, it will
be a very simple matter to remove the plants ;
the roots, having formed a compact network
in the turves and manure, will come clean
away from the ash bed, and strong, sturdy
plants, capable of growing right away, will
be obtained. Should it be impracticable for
the frame to be thus used, then it is
important that all autumn-sown plants,
whether in boxes of pots, should be re-
potted in fresh soil as early in January as
possible.
Outdoor Sowing. — In gardens where the soil
is light and through which moisture passes away
readily in the winter, Sweet Peas may be sown
directly into the soil, and they stand little or no
risk of dying off, but they start into growth in
the spring already well rooted and are better
able to withstand the hot weather that may
follow. But in heavy soil it is a mistake to sow
in the open ; the seedlings will " damp off " and
labour is lost. The safer method is to raise the
THE ROCK GARDEN IN
AUTUMN.
w
HILE everyone who rock gardens
at all knows that the greater
flower wealth of that depart-
ment is to be found from March
to June inclusive, there would
certainly appear to be an ever-
increasing number who desire as much flower
beauty as is possible during the autumn months.
The desire is both legitimate and good, since, if
carried into effect with as much zeal as in now
displayed in the embellishing of the rock garden
at other times, it would yield results that would
surprise not a few. True, as already hinted,
there is not a tithe of the flower beauty for the
autumn months that is possible for spring, though
A ROCK GARDEN SCENE IN SEPTEMBER, WITH CAMPANULA MURALIS IN THE FOREGROUND
FLOWERING FOR THE SECOND TIME.
plants in a frame and
advised.
to
treat them as before
S. M. Crow.
WATSONIA COCCINEA.
One of the most beautiful plants we have grown
here this season is Watsonia coccinea, a really
fine subject which I should like to commend
to others. The colouring is somewhat similar
to the ground colour of Lilium tigrinum, but
is a shade more brilliant, and the black spots
are entirely absent. The anthers are deep black,
and, contrasting against the bright-hued blossoms,
are very pleasing. W. coccinea with us flowers
in late July with the beautiful white Ardernei,
to which it forms a very pleasing companion.
Like Gladioli, the corms need lifting each
autumn to ensure their safety during the winter
months.
Clactan-on-Sea. P. S. Hayward.
it is equally true that what exists is not made
sufficiently good use of, and until this is brought
together and utilisfd to the best advantage we
shall never realise its worth. So far the few good
autumn-flowering rock garden plants have hardly
had a fair hearing. In other words, in not a
few instances they have had to be content
with a moderate or sparse representation. Of
late, however, signs have not been wanting
of a change in this direction, and the enquiries
received from time to time indicate that there
is a desire to extend the flowering season as
much as possible, or at least to make the
best use of the material which even now
exists. To some extent, by an endeavour
to make autumn rock gardening a feature and
by planting in freer masses instead of small,
isolated groups as formerly, something serviceable
might be accomplished. Take, for example,
the genus Campanula, and, selecting from it such
446
THE GARDEN.
[September 5, 1914-
as fragilis, isophylla in all its forms, Barrelieri,
Stansfieldii, garganica in variety, Hillside Gem,
Hendersonii, Tymonsii, Profusion in two varieties,
to say nothing of the late comers of carpatica,
we have not only some of the more showy
of the rock garden Bellflowers, but also some of
the more profuse flowering. Then there are liardy
Heaths of importance and beauty, Crocus species
in considerable variety, very beautiful hardy
Cyclamen, together with Polygonums, Sedums,
Colchicums, Stcmbergias, Zauschnerias and others,
which, if rightly employed, would go a long way
to ensuring a better display than is usually seen.
The thing to do in the case is to plant these autumn
bloomers mth the same freedom or lavishness
as is done with those that flower at other seasons,
rather than continue to subordinate them or
permit but a meagre representation. To some
extent our public gardens might assist in this
direction, and where rock gardens exist, by specialis-
ing in the good things, show what is possible.
So fine a Saxifrage as S. Fortunei could be made
quite a feature, and if not absolutely hardy in
all Northern gardens, is worthy of freer repre-
sentation in many others. In certain instances
recourse might be had to some of the dwarf-
growing, little-known annuals, late sowings of
which would provide free masses of colour at
small cost. Then there are the Violettas, an
invaluable race in themselves well worth spe-
cialisation, and of even greater value perhaps in
Northern than in Southern gardens. Then, of
course, it would be well to remember the more
profuse-flowering alpines, as Androsace lanuginosa
or Campanula muralis, which not infrequently
provides quite a good secondary display of flowers.
Lastly, the rock gardener should take note of
thin carpeting subjects, and that section in par-
ticular which, having played their flower part
earlier in the year, are capable of being turned
to account in other ways, though best of all,
perhaps, in preserving the flowers of Crocus at
their time of blossoming, and over whose bulbs
they may be planted with that object in view.
In these and in other ways much might still be
done to extend the interest of the rock garden
far away into .^.ugust and September each year.
THE MOURNING IRIS.
(I. SUSIANA.)
The above Iris is peihaps the
most striking of all the family,
and in common with I. iberica
and all the so-called Oncocyclus
Irises, its successful cultivation
presents many difficulties. With
this plant it is true one often
gets excellent results the first
season, but it is only on odd
occasions that one succeeds
in keeping it in good health
for a number of years. There
is little doubt that most of
our failures to keep this
plant in good health are due
to imperfect ripening of the
rhizomes. Plenty of lime in
the soil is said by some to be
the secret of success ; but
my experience with this plant
in various parts of the country
has not proved this to be
always the case. Other ex-
perts hold that poor soil is
the secret. This I do not
agree with. Good drainage it
certainly must have, also a
warm, sheltered position. If
one can say anything definite
regarding growing it success-
fully, good cultivation during
its growing season and a regular
roasting during its resting
period is the method most likely to meet with
success. Thus, to ensure the latter conditions
the plants during their resting period should be
covered with glass to keep them perfectly dry. If
this is not possible, they should be lifted and exposed
to the sun for a time in a cold frame, where they
can be kept dry. This method, good cultivation
and thorough ripening I have also found successful
with the shy-flowering bulbous I. tingitana.
A good situation for I. susiana is a warm,
sunnv border at the foot of a south wall.
IRIS SUSIANA, OR THE MOURNING IRIS.
although in warm, sheltered positions in the
South it sometimes does well in the open. Care
should be taken not to plant it too deeply ;
in fact, the rhizomes should be no more than
covered. Where it does not succeed outdoors,
this Iris may be grown in pots for greenhouse
decoration. The new Regelio-cyclus hybrids are
very beautiful, and are apparently easier to grow
than the species. J. C.
Name. Height.
Campanula Barrelieri Trailing. .
C. fragilis ,,
C. garganica (all varieties) ..
C. Hendersonii ^it
C. Hillside Gem
C. muralis (second flowering) Ut
C. Profusion (two varieties). . Trailing. .
C. Tymonsii ift
Ceratostigma plumbaginoides fft
Colchicums of sorts |ft. to 1ft.
Oocus medius |ft
C. nudiflorus |ft
C. ochroleucus |ft
C. speciosus ^ft
C zonatus |ft
Cyolamen neapolitanum .... Carpeting
C. n. album
Erica cinerea Jft
E. c. alba
E. c. atropurpurca ,,
E. c. atrosanguinea
E. c. coccinea ,
E. ciliaris mamana ,,
E. vagans 2ft
Polygonum afflne 5ft
P. vaccinifolium Trailing . .
Saxifraga Fortunei 1ft
Sedum Ewersii Tufted . .
S, kamtchaticum
S. pulchellum *ft
S. Sieboldii Tufted . .
S. spedtabile in variety .... 1ft. to 2ft-
S. spurium in variety Trailing. .
Stembergias of sorts ^ft
Violettas of sorts
Aspect.
Sunny .
Cool' ..'.
Open . . .
Cool
Open .
Sunny
Soil.
Gritty loam .
Moist loam .
Rich loam .
Peat loam .
Rich loam .
Sandy loam.
Predominant
Colour.
Blue
Flowering
Period.
Aug.-Scpt
July-Sept.
July-Oct.
July-Aug.
Open or
light shade
Open .
Lavender
Hose pink
White
Peat and loam Reddish . .
White
,, Richpurplr
„ Deep red
Bright red
Deep red.
Pink
Loam Reddish
Sandy loam
Dark blue . . Aug.-Oct.
White & lilac Aug.-Sept.
Violet Sept.-Oct
Lilac purplf Aug.-Sept.
White Sept.-Oct.
Violet purple Aug.-Sept.
Method ot
Increase.
Cuttings, seeds
(^hittings
Cuttings, division
Cuttings
Division
Seeds, division
Sept. - Oct.
Aug.-Sept.
Sept. - Oct. Cuttings, layers
Pink Sept.-Nov.
White Sept.-Oct.
PinJi
Yellow .
Pink .
Aug.-Sept.
Zauschneria californica
Z c. splendens
Cool spots
1ft Sunny
Deep loam . .
Ordinary soil
Sandy loam . .
Loamy soils. .
Sandy loam . .
Pink and red
Various ....
Yellow
Various ....
Scarlet
July-Sept.
Aug.-Oct.
Division
Cuttings, division
Division
Cuttings
Division
Cuttings
Division
Seeds, division
Cuttings
Division
E. H. Jenkins.
LANTANAS.
While these are troublesome weeds in many of
the warmer regions of the globe, some of them,
especially the garden forms, are here of considerable
value for decorative purposes. They have within
the last few years come well to the front for bedding
out during the summer, which is not at all surprising,
as they are very showy when at their best, and
readily lend themselves to our varied climate.
Two years ago, when so many bedding plants
suffered from the intense heat, the Lantanas were
in every way satisfactory, and though last season
was wet and cold, they were very fine. There are
a great number of varieties, one of the best known
being Lantana salvisfolia, more generally known
as L. delicatissima. This, which attains a con-
siderable size, has bright violet purple blossoms.
The best of the rich-coloured varieties is the deep
scarlet Incendie, while Drap d'Or is a good
yellow. It is not alone as bedding plants that
these Lantanas are of service, for when a green-
house has to be kept gay with flowers at all
seasons they may be depended upon to give of
their best, and that, too, over a lengthened
period. Lantana salvisefolia is a good roof or
rafter plant, whose long, slender shoots will hang
down for a considerable distance and flower for
months together.
September 5, IQ14.]
THE GARDEN.
447
GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS
THE PROPAGATION OF SUlVfMER BEDDING PLANTS.
EVERY autumn a number of cuttings
of the different kinds of bedding-out
plants should be propagated. It is
better to propagate in early autumn
than late, providing the cuttings are
available. We generally want cuttings
and a fine display of blossom in the garden at
the same time, and this is one reason why
propagation is deferred as long as possible.
In every instance the shoots that make the
best cuttings are those that do not possess
flowers, so that by judicious selection the culti-
vator can obtain the cuttings without marring
the general good appearance of the beds of
plants.
How a Cutting Forms Roots. — The cultivator
should understand what actually happens after
he has taken a cutting and inserted it in some
soil. If he does, he will know how to treat the
cuttings throughout the winter so as to keep them
healthy. If, in dealing with the majority of
cuttings, the stems are severed between the
joints, the lower portion of the stem will decay
and the cutting will be lost entirely. If, however,
the stem is severed through the lower part of a
joint, it will not die if properly treated, but form
roots from the node or joint. If too much
moisture is given, these very tender roots will
perish ; also, if they are allowed to remain in a
very dry soil for a long time, they will gradually
shrivel up and adversely affect the base of the
cutting itself. No amount of moisture or care
will, in many instances, result in saving the
cutting. Very soft, sappy-stemmed cuttings are
not suitable, because in many cases the stems
would decay instead of forming a callus and
roots. Verv hard wood is not suitable, because
it would remain a long time without forming
roots, and, even after growth commenced, the
new shoots would be stunted and generally
unsatisfactory throughout the next season or until
the end of the next summer. With regard to the
length of the cutting, it will be safe, to insert one-
third under the soil. Half an inch would not be
deep enough to insert a 5-inch-long cutting of
Zonal Pelargonium, but it would be quite deep
enough for a 2-inch-long one of Lobelia or
Gazania.
In Fig. A, No. i shows a Coleus cutting pre-
pared for insertion. No. 2 depicts one of an
Abutilon, the stem and lower leaf of which must
be severed at the dark cross lines before it is ready
for putting in, and any flower-buds on cuttings
of this kind must be pinched off. No. 3 shows a
prepared cutting of a Mesembryanthemum, and
No. 4, of a Gazania. These will be sufficient
to show the beginner how to proceed when selecting
and preparing cuttings generally.
/ \^fT\
A. VARIOUS CUTTINGS PREPARED FOR
INSERTION.
0
0
©
©
—
0
©
TT
§-
B. CUTTING BOXES AND PANS MUST BE
MADE READY BEFOREHAND.
The Compost, Boxes and Pots.— Loam must
form the chief ingredient, as shown at No. i,
Fig. B ; coarse sand. No. 2 ; leaf-soil. No. 3.
These parts should be in proportion, as depicted by
the heaps. No. 4 shows the bottom of the cutting-
box with holes for drainage, and strips of wood
naUed across to increase the strength and preserve
the bottom from decay by close contact with the
groimd, as illustrated at No. 5. No. 6 shows the
drainage material and soil. No. 7, in a pan ready
for the insertion of cuttings. All pots, boxes
and pans must be prepared in a similar way.
In Fig. C, No. r represents a cutting-box, and
No. 2, the soil surfaced with sand in which to
insert the cuttings. Good positions for the cuttings
are on shelves and stages in a greenhouse, as
shown at Nos. 3 and 4 respectively, and Nos. 5
and 6 in a frame. Zonal Pelargoniums will not
be adversely affected if exposed to sunshine and
plenty of air ; but the majority of the cuttings
C. IT IS IMPORTANT TO FIND GOOD
POSITIONS FOR THE CUTTINGS.
will succeed best if lightly shaded and kept free
from draughts. G. G.
ROSE GRAND DUG DE LUXEM-
BOURG.
.Although this beautiful variety has one very bad
quality — that of hanging its head — there are few
Roses that have charmed me more. It possesses
such a lusty vigour and delightful habit that these
alone would secure it consideration ; but when
we examine its colour we discover the secret
of its fascinating so many individuals. It is the
two wonderful colours that exist in each flower
that command attention, the inner side of the
petals being clear rosy pink and the outer brilhant
lake. The nearest approach in colouring is Mrs.
E. G. Hill, and this variety has the merit of pro-
ducing its flowers erect, which makes them more
decorative, yet there is lacking that vigour which
we admire so much in the Grand Due. I cannot
but compare the growth to that of Viscountess
Folkestone ; indeed, the two would make charm-
ing companions. We are getting quite a number
of Roses of these two colourings, but I think
Grand Due de Luxembourg will well hold its own.
It is interesting to note how each raiser has his own
special strain. Messrs. Soupert and Netting, the
raisers of the Rose under notice, have issued two
that bear a resemblance to Grand Due de Luxem-
boiurg, namely, Mrs. E. G. Hill and Alberto N.
Calamet ; and Messrs. A. Dickson and Sons with
their golden set, such as Mrs. Peter Blair, Harry
Kirk and Duchess of Wellington, all bearing evidence
in their growth of a kindred relationship. P.
448
THE GARDEN.
[September 5, 1914-
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruit Under Glass.
Late Vines on which heavy crops are ripening
must be freely supplied with moisture at the roots,
and the ventilators left slightly open during the
night in order to dispel moisture. If dull weather
sets in, a little fire-heat may be employed with
the same object in view. Ventilation in the early
morning is of great importance to Grapes during
the ripening stage, especially at this season.
Lateral growth must be regulated over the trellis
as evenly as possible, and never allowed to become
so dense as to interfere with the proper circulation
of air or to deprive the berries of the necessary
nutriment to bring them to a perfect finish.
Plants Under Glass.
Lilium longiflorum. — If flowering plants are
required in midwinter, no time should be lost
in potting the bulbs, and as these have been
retarded, they ought, as soon as they are delivered,
to be placed in pots which are not too large.
The soil may consist of three parts sandy loam
and one part leaf-soil. Earlier plants which are
showing flower-buds should be examined, and
if aphides are present on the foliage, the house
ought to be fumigated at once.
Lily of the Valley. — Retarded crowns of this
favourite flower may be potted up now, and
should be in bloom during October. The crowns
must be potted as soon as they are received and
kept in an even temperature, as any check in this
way will be very injurious to them. A light
covering of Cocoanut fibre refuse may be placed
over the pots in order to keep them in an even
state of moisture.
Bouvardias in cold frames should be freely
supplied with liquid manture. In order to promote
clean, healthy growth and, consequently, fine
flowers, give plenty of space between the pots
and keep the lights off during the night, as heavy
dew will have a beneficial effect on the plants,
providing the temperature is not too low.
The Flower Garden.
Narcissi. — If plantations of these are contem-
plated, the bulbs should be selected and planted
with as little delay as possible, for although they
will flower if planted as late as December, far
better results are to be obtained by planting now.
Narcissi may be grown in almost any position
in the garden or pleasure grounds, and the stronger-
growing varieties have a very pleasing effect when
planted in grass under deciduous trees or in front
of the shrubberies. In planting dwarf-growing
varieties, the bulbs may be placed 2 inches deep,
but for tall-growing sorts twice that depth is not
too much.
Propagating Bedding Plants. — This work should
be pushed forward as quickly as possible. Fuchsias,
Heliotropes and similar plants may be propagated
in a close, cold frame within a few inches of the
roof glass. If the frame is kept close and sufficient
shading provided, there will be no difficulty
in securing a good stock of plants. Frequent
light syringing is necessary to keep the cuttings
from flagging. In selecting cuttings, long pieces
should be avoided, as the best results are obtained
from short, stocky tops, which strike much
quicker and make better plants in the end.
Violets. — These plants should be frequently
damped overhead in order to keep the foliage
healthy. A light dusting of soot will also do much
to keep red spider in check. Remove worthless
side shoots, and as this work proceeds the crown
shoots should be selected with a view to securing
stock plants for the following year. If these
cuttings are planted in some sheltered situation
about six inches apart, they will make valuable
plants ready to put out in April.
Violas ought to be cut over and the cuttings
taken in October. Slight shading will be necessary
until the roots take possession of the soil, after
which the lights may be removed until sharp frost
sets in.
The Fruit Garden.
Strawberries, — In making new plantations of
Strawberries it should be remembered that these
plants are deep-rooting and require a depth of
2 feet of good rich soil to grow them to perfection.
When the ground is being prepared, a quantity of
farmyard manure should be incorporated with the
soil, which must afterwards be trodden when
moderately dry. When the plants have been put
out, a liberal supply of water ought to be given,
and this must be continued until the roots have
re-established themselves.
Fruit Trees. — The roots must not be allowed
to become too dry now, or the prospect of a good
crop next season will be much reduced. Keep
the breast-wood cut back to within a few leaves
of the basal buds in order to matiure them and
encourage the formation of fruit-sptu's. The
leading shoots should be kept nailed to the wall
to secure them against rough wind.
The Kitchen Garden.
Sowing Cauliflowers. — Now is the time to
sow seeds of Cauliflowers for wintering in cold
frames with a view to planting them out at the
beginning of April. From these plants a good
supply should be available by the beginning of
June, providing suitable varieties are selected.
For this purpose I find Great Dane, Magnum
Bonum and Early London answer the purpose
well, and come into use in the order named.
Winter Spinach.— This may still be sown,
and a sheltered position should be chosen for it.
If the ground is dry at the time of sowing, the
drills may be watered the night previous. This
will hasten the germination of the seeds by several
days.
Celery. — Give liberal supplies of water to all
Celery plants, and earth up early plantations
as it becomes necessary. Tie the foliage with some
soft material until the soil has been placed in
position, after which the ties may be carefully
removed.
Leeks. — The early plants will benefit by an
abundant supply of manure-water. Keep the
soil stirred between the plants, and earth up as it
becomes necessary.
Keep the Hoe at Work among growing crops
so that all weeds may be destroyed before the
season is too far advanced.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Spring Cabbage. — Preparations may now be
made for planting this important crop. For the
earliest supplies a warm border should be selected
from which early Potatoes have been gathered.
To ensure a sturdy growth, simply level the ground,
which afterwards ought to be made fairly firm
by treading. Plant out in rows about fifteen inches
apart and 9 inches between the plants. Larger-
growing sorts will, of course, require more room.
Guard against grubs by giving a dusting of soot
and lime occasionally.
Potatoes. — Continue to lift and store such varie-
ties as appear to be fully grown, as, if wet weather
sets in, disease and scab are sure to make their
appearance and cause much damage to the tubers.
In storing, all diseased tubers should be carefully
picked out, and small sets may be collected
and placed apart, when they can be looked over
and graded on wet days.
Turnips. — Although it is just late enough in
most places in the North to make a sowing after
this date, still, if a vacant space is available in a
sheltered part of the garden, it wUI be worth while
to sow a few rows of these, which would come in
useful even if the Turnips only grow to the size of
half-a-crown. With the increased moisture at this
season they will come through in a few days.
To hasten growth, give the ground a dusting of
Peruvian Guano, and with a mild autumn they
will grow on till November.
Celery. — As frost is often experienced in the
North any time after this date, the work of earthing
up the main crop should have immediate attention.
It will be more than ever necessary at this time
to select a dry day for the work, so that the soil
may be reduced to powder, and care must be taken
that no soil gets into the hearts of the plants.
The Flower Garden.
Begonias. — Where this year's seedlings were
planted out in the reserve garden, many of them
may be lifted carefully and potted. These will
bloom for some time yet and add a rich colour
in the greenhouse. The remaining bulbs must
be left until growth is completed.
Early Flowering Chrysanthemums. — Like the
ftiregoing, plants coming into bloom can be lifted
and potted for furnishing the greenhouse and
conservatory, and thus give a supply of flowers
until the pot-grown plants come into bloom.
Although these Chrysanthemums are very accom-
modating, they must be lifted with good balls
of soil attached, and be well watered and shaded
heavily until they recover from the check of
removal.
Plants Under Glass.
Humea elegans. — Seed of this graceful plant
which was saved from home-grown plants should
now be fit for sowing. Place the seed-pan in a
moderate temperature, and, as already pointed
out, careful watering is essential from the very
start. When the seedlings are large enough to
handle, pot them singly into 2j-inch pots in a
mixture of loam, leaf-mould and sand. Keep
the plants close for a few days tmtil they are
well rooted.
Bulbs for Forcing. — Where early flowers of
Tulips, Hyacinths and Narcissi are in demand, a
start should be made in getting the bulbs potted.
However early they may be wanted, they
must not be unduly excited at the start. After
potting, place them against a wall and cover
with 3 inches of sifted ashes. If the soil is
fairly moist, no water will be required tmtil they
have started into growth. A number of boxes
may also be filled with Daffodils from the border,
Golden Spur and Trumpet Major being useful
varieties for this work. Until growth conuuenoes
they must be treated in the same way as pot-grown
bulbs.
Carnation Souvenir de la Malmaison. — The
layers of this Carnation will now be ready
for potting, and great care must be exercised
in this operation. Endeavour to get good balls
of soil attached, and put them into suitable-
sized pots. After potting, stand the plants in
a good frame until they are established ; but
care must be taken that too much moisture is
not allowed to settle on them. Should green
fly make its appearance, syringe slightly with
Quassia Extract, as fumigation is not always
practicable in frames.
The Fruit Garden.
Pears. — Now that most of the small fruits
have been gathered, the nets should be used to
protect wall fruits, particularly Pears. Extra
choice fruits should be supported by tying them
up to the wires or branches. The same results
would be obtained by using small muslin
bags, but they are, to say the least of it,
misightly. Means should also be taken to
guard against squirrels. They can nip off a
Pear and make off with it with the most
astonishing ease. We caught many last year
entangled in the net.
Apricots. — As most of the fruits have been
secured, the trees ought to be gone over, and
any pruning necessary should be done now.
Very often, when this work is delayed until the
winter, a good deal of gumming results. It is
quite obvious, however, that the earlier the work
is done, the more good will result to the building
up of next year's buds.
Fruit Under Glass.
Peaches. — The earliest varieties will now
have completed their growth, which will be seen
from the plumpness of the buds. Where this
is the case, open the ventilators to their fullest
extent, so that the trees may have a complete
rest. Trees that have carried heavy crops may
still have liquid manture applied occasionally,
and use the syringe only to keep the foliage
healthy.
Figs. — The second crop wiU now be ripening,
and in consequence the atmosphere roust be
kept somewhat drier. Any fruits produced after
this date should be stripped off, as it is evident
that they will have no chance of ripening. Any
pot-grown trees requiring a shift should be seen
to as soon as the fruits have been gathered, but
guard against overpotting these.
John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopetoun Gardens, SoiUh Queens/erry, N.B.
■«»<0fey--
GARDEN. '
No. 2234.— Vol. LXXVIII.
September 12, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Competition tor Tobacco Plants. — An inter-
esting feature of the flower show recently held
at Twynholm, Kirkcudbrightshire, was the com-
petition for Tobacco plants. No fewer than
twenty were exhibited. Tobacco is being culti-
vated for commercial purposes on a considerable
scale in the district, and much interest is being
taken in the crop in the vicinity.
Bottling Pears. — The best time to bottle Pears
is when they are ready to pick, as the flavour of
each variety is then much more pronounced ; but
these are also extremely good and palatable if
picked before the fruits are pro
perly matured, which often has
to be done when the trees are
overcrowded. In no case
should the fruits be bottled if
they are over-ripe in the slightest
degree.
Royal Flowers tor Scottish
Hospital. — By the command of
Her Majesty the Queen, Mr. J.
Michie, M.V.O., the King's
Commissioner at Balmoral, has
intimated to the managers of
Momingfield Hospital, Aberdeen,
that flowers from the Royal
Gardens at Balmoral and
Abergeldie will be sent to the
hospital once or twice a week.
There is no doubt that the kind-
ness of Her Majesty will be
very highly appreciated by the
patients at the hospital.
The D 0 u b 1 e-F lowered
Saponaria caucasica.^This is
an excellent plant for the
herbaceous border. It grows
about two feet in height, and
blooms in the South of England
in the early part of August.
It is somewhat like a Lychnis
in its general appearance.
The flowers are double and
pure white, and are freely produced. Although
we were assured that S. caucasica Was the correct
name, it appeared to be very like the old officinalis
with double flowers. It was, however, of a more
compact habit.
Sowing Parsley. — ^This is one of the most
valuable herbs, being in demand the whole
year round ; but often during the winter months
there is a scarcity of it. Liberal sowings should
now be made in unheated frames. Plants raised
from a sowing now, and under these conditions,
frequently prove very valuable during severe
weather in winter. Any seedlings that are now
ready to be planted out should be put in a row
along a south wall or fence, and will be found of
great value later.
A September-Flowering Alpine.— In Viola
comuta we have a showy plant for the rock garden
in late summer or early autumn, but for some reason
its merits are often overlooked, and it is frequently
omitted from compilations on late-flowering alpines.
It loves limestone, and is very suitable for growing
among rocks or in steps of rock gardens. The
subject of the illustration on this page is the
white counterpart of this delightful Viola.
VIOLA CORNUTA ALBA,
A LATE-FLOWERING PLANT FOR THE ROCK
GARDEN.
Planting Small Bulbs.^Where it is possible
to commence this operation, no time should be
lost. All bulbs benefit by early planting,
particularly small bulbs, which tend to dry
quicker. Snowdrops, Chionodoxas, Scillas, Fritil-
larias, Muscaris and other small bulbs may now
be planted in places that are at liberty. Beds
that are filled with summer bedding plants will
have to wait, not because it is beneficial, but
because it is convenient.
Hydrangea hortensis. — To obtain dwarf plants
for flowering in May and June, the cuttings should
be taken now. Choose strong, short-jointed
shoots which have been grown in the open. Cut
them below the third joint and remove the two
bottom leaves, afterwards inserting them in small
pots of sandy soil and placing them under a hand-
light in a cool, close pit \mtil sufficiently rooted.
They may be wintered in a cool pit with plenty
of ventilation. Pot into 5-inch pots about the
end of January. If grown near the glass in an
intermediate temperature, they should flower
within T4 inches of the pot.
Vegetables for the Troops.— The military
authorities are purchasing large quantities of
farm and market garden pro-
duce, including Potatoes, Cab-
bages, Carrots, Onions and other
vegetables, for the use of His
Majesty's troops throughout the
country. For the purpose of
facilitating supply and of pre-
venting, as far as possible, a
scarcity of produce arising in one
district while there is a surplus
in another, farmers and market
gardeners are urged to assist the
War Office by stating the quan-
tity of produce they have to sell
at fair market price. Forms for
the purpose can be obtained
either from any post office or
direct from the Board of
Agriculture and Fisheries, 3,
St. James' Square, London,
S.W.
An Example Worth Follow-
ing.— At Chard, on Saturday,
August 39, a Patriotic Flower,
Fruit and Vegetable Show was
held in the Com Exchange in
aid of the Prince of Wales'
National Relief Fund, when a
sum of £40 was raised for it. The
idea originated with Messrs.
Jarman and Co., who supphed
all the blooms gratis. These had
been grown for show purposes ; but shows having
been abandoned, it was thought weU not to waste
them, but turn them to a good account. Prize
cards only were given in the competitive classes
as mementoes of the show, and there were over
one hundred and sixty entries. The whole of the
produce was sold for the above Fund. During
the day twenty young ladies imdertook to sell
button-holes in the streets. The number sold was
over two thousand, realising the splendid sum of
£15 15s. No doubt there are many who have a
quantity of blooms to sell which might be used to
bring about an equally good result.
450
THE GARDEN.
[September 12, 1914-
CORRESPONDENCE.
{The Editor is not responsible for the of
expressed by correspondents.)
Pungent Preserve of Pears. — An excellent
addition to curry, or can be used as a sweet
chutney. Ingredients : Four pounds of Pears,
3lb.' of sugar, 20z. of ground ginger, the juice
and rind of a large Lemon, a suspicion of Cayenne
pepper, and a little water. Method : Pare,
core and quarter the Pears and boil with all
the other ingredients till quite tender. — .\nne
Amateur.
Butterflies. — -Allow me to call attention to a
new joy for these beautiful visitors to our gardens.
I refer to Buddleia Veitchii. The long, closely
set inflorescences attract a variety of butterflies.
I noted Peacock, Tortoiseshell, Red Admiral,
Large and Small White Cabbage and Brimstone
actively engaged inserting their probosces into
The Verbascums. — It is pleasant to read
Mr. E. H. Jenkins' appreciative notes on the
Verbascums on page 435, issue August 29, and
to see the good groups shown in the illustra-
tions which accompany the article. I am an old
admirer of the Mulleins, and having cultivated
some of the hybrid Verbascums, derived from V.
phoe.iiceum, for a very long time, it is particu-
larly agreeable to me to observe the great advance
made in these flowers within the last few years.
I have cultivated V. phcEiiceum for a great
many years, but somewhere about twenty years
ago, I think, I observed in the seed list of the
late Mr. Baylor Hartland of Cork that seeds of
V. phoeniceum hybrids were offered. I procured
a packet, and from these seeds had some beautiful
varieties of the phoe.iiceum type, but generally
rather more vigorous. One of these was the same
as Caledonia, and I still have that plant in my
garden. There were whites, bronzes, purples
and almost lilacs, but no pure yellows. I saw
GRASS OF PARNASSUS IN A STREAMSlDE GAKDE.n;.
the tubular flowers with evident enjoyment, thus
adding new beauty to a very showy shrub. To get
the plants in perfection of flower they should be
cut hard in 'the spring. Later on, the pink
Sedum spectabile is very attractive to butterflies,
growing only a foot high, with dense, flat flower-
heads. One autumn our Michaelmas Daisies
were swarming with the Painted Lady, which is
ordinarily rare except on our Kentish coasts. —
George Bunyard.
The Grass of Parnassus (Parnassia palus-
tris). — It is interesting to note that the Grass
of Parnassus, which is still flowering in many
bog gardens, is in reality a native of this country,
and is found wild in moist heaths and bogs. It
takes its popular name from Mount Parnassus,
where presumably it also grows wild, and it was
called Grass of Parnassus by Dioscorides. Unlike
many choice British plants, it is amenable to
cultivation in our gardens. It may be increased
either by seed or division, and thrives in a moist,
peaty soil. — C. Q.
some hybrids at Mr. T. Smith's Newry Nurseries
later, and more recently, of course, the advent
of the fine hybrid Miss Willmott opened up to
us a new range of Verbascums. Messrs. Harkness
and Sons of Bedale have done good work with
these flowers, and some of their varieties, such
as International and New Departure, are splendid
Mulleins. I have also had an opportunity of
seeing the magnificent new Warley Rose, exhibited
in London this year, which is a flower of out-
standing beauty and distinctness. Another Bedale
firm, Messrs. George Gibson and Co., have also
entered the field as raisers of new Mulleins, and
I have had the pleasure of examining some thirty
new varieties raised by them. Of the yellows,
Golden Glory, with a crimped edge ; the large
light yellow Femandes ; Aquitania, large deep
yellow ; and Dr. Hutchison, almost cream,
were among the finest. I also noted those named
The Premier, mauve and very large ; Terra-
Cotta, the name indicating the colour ; Mauve
Queen, mauve ; and a number of others of much
beauty. There seems to be no limit to the variety
we shall have among these flowers, and the most
careful selection will be necessarj- if we are not
to be flooded with too many new forms, a large
proportion of which are too much alike. — S.
Arnott. m
Help the Trade. — It is somewhat strange that,
despite the very real enjoyment and interest
obtained by the pursuit of gardening, it is almost
invariably in the garden that at any time of
financial stress the first efforts are made at retrench-
ment of expenditure. It is an old grievance
among gardeners that employers are wont to cut
down expenses and reduce the wages biU in the
garden when they do not dream of disturbing
the stables or the household staff. None can
gainsay that at this time of grave crisis it is but
reasonable — if, indeed, not absolutely necessary —
that one and all should exercise economy and
guard against anything approaching extravagance ;
but there are, happily, many in this land of ours
whose means admit of their adhering
more or less to their customary
modes, even at such a time as this,
and it is sincerely to be hoped that
they will heed the appeals that have
been made and help traders, includ-
ing nurserymen, to carry on business
as usual. No secret need be made
of the fact that, generally speaking,
the nurseryman's business is one that
shows its owner Uttle more than a
decent living, so that a stagnation
of trade leaves no option but to
veduce the staff of workmen to the
lowest possible limits. The workers,
even at the best of times, receive
no more wages than suffice to meet
the most moderate requirements,
and to be thrown out of work is to
be immediately thrown into a state
of privation and want. It is, there-
fore, a matter of real importance and
urgency that all who are able shall
continue to support the nursery trade
,ind send without delay orders for
trees, shrubs and plants, so that nur-
serymen may find the wherewitlial to
l--
GARDEN.
No. 2235.— Vol. LXXVIII.
September 19, 19 14.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Our Sub-Editor Joins the Army. — It is with
considerable gratification that we announce that
our Sub-Editor, Mr. H. Cowley, has answered
his country's call, and has joined the Polytechnic
Corps of the London Rangers for as long as the
war lasts. As an old Kewite, and as Sub-Editor
of The Garden, Mr. Cowley has made many
friends, and we know that they and our numerous
readers will join with us in wishing him every
success and a safe and speedy return.
Tlie National Rose Society and
tlie War. — As the autumn show of the
National Rose Society has been aban-
doned for this year, the Council of the
society, at its meeting held on the 8th
inst., unanimously decided to send a
donation of fifty guineas to the Relief
Fund which is being raised by the
society's Royal patroness. Queen
Alexandra.
A Beautiful Herbaceous Phlox.
— With so many excellent and charm-
ing Phloxes to select from it is diffi-
cult to pick out one that is much
better than many others. That illus-
trated on this page, however, has done
so well with us for several years that
it certainly deserves special mention.
Unfortunately, it has the unwieldy and
foreign name of Hanny Pfleiderer, but
we must not let this blind us to its
excellent qualities. It is a strong and
sturdy grower, attaining a height of
about three feet, and its large, sym-
metrical flowers are produced freely in
bold heads. Their colour is cream,
changing to salmon, and each has a
decided crimson centre that contrasts
well with the outer colour of the
segments. Plants can be purchased
cheaply from dealers in hardy plants.
Geum Mrs. Bradshaw. — This beau-
tiful scarlet border plant may be easily
increased by sowing the seeds as soon
as they are quite ripe. The soil must
never be allowed to become dry before
the plants are well through the sur-
face, when they may be carefully
pricked into boxes of good rich soil. If space is
available, they should be allowed to remain in a
cold frame during the winter.
Nicotiana afflnis as a Cut Flower.— Miss
Jekyll sends us the following timely note on the
sweet-scented Tobacco ; " If this beautiful flower
is cut in the evening when the bloom is expanded,
it does not close again when put in water in the
house ; moreover, any of the flowers that may
be only in bud will open and remain open. It
should have the addition of some rather solid
foliage. Bay is always beautiful, and the rather
pale green colour and solid texture of Skimmia
are specially becoming. It remains many days in
good order."
Beautiful Flower-Beds. — Some large flower-
beds, charmingly filled, have been greatly admired
in a public garden in Hampshire during the present
A YOUNG PLANT OF A BEAUTIFUL DWARF HERBACEOUS
PHLOX. (Si?!,' note on this pa^e.)
summer. The groundwork in the centre was
composed of Gazania splendens. Over this at
3 feet apart were half-standard Fuchsias of the
varieties elegans, Lena and conspicua, respec-
tively. The whole was edged with a broad band
of Alyssum minimum. The rich orange-coloured
flowers of the Gazanias, dark centres, and silvery
reverse of the green leaves made a very rich
and pleasing display.
Potato and Corn Crops in Great Britain.— The
monthly Agricultural Report, just issued by
the Board of Agriculture, shows that the Potato
and Corn crops in Great Britain are this year
well up to the average, and that practically all
com has been harvested in good condition. Sum-
marising the returns, and expressing an average
crop by lOO, the condition of the crops on Sep-
tember I indicated probable yields per acre which
may be denoted by the following
percentages : Wheat, 104 ; Barley,
99 ; Oats, 95 ; Beans, loi ; Peas, 93 ;
Potatoes, 102 ; Turnips and Swedes,
96 ; Mangolds, 99 ; and Hops, 109.
Vacant Land Cultivation Society.
— At a time such as this, when
everyone is urged to cultivate as much
food as possible, we are pleased to
receive the annual report of the
above society. Founded in London
in 1908 by the late Mr. Joseph Fels,
the society has already done valu-
able work in securing vacant plots
and instructing suitable men to culti-
vate them to the best advantage. Since
the war broke out, strenuous and suc-
cessful efforts have been made to
secure further land, and an appeal to
seedsmen and gardeners for seeds and
plants has met with a good response.
The society is, however, badly in
need of funds. Full particulars
of its work can be obtained from
Mr. H. J. Wright, 180, Fleet Street,
London, E.C.
Dividing Christmas Roses. — The
Christmas Roses are generally known
by gardeners to be impatient of root
disturbance, the result of which
is almost certain to be the non-
production of flowers the following
year, especially if done in a careless
way or at the wrong time. If
possible, they should be left un-
disturbed ; but as there are times
when it is necessary to lift and
divide, it may be of value to
know that now is the best time,
care should be taken to extract
the roots intact. In dividing the plant,
let the rhizome be cut through with a sharp
knife ; then with two handforks pull the plant
apart, endeavouring to keep with each part some
of the strongest outside crowns. In replanting
do not put manure near the roots, but a little
decayed leaf-soil and grit will be helpful in
encouraging the formation of new roots.
Great
462
THE GARDEN.
[September 19, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
( The Editor is not responsible jor the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
Flowers for Wounded Soldiers. — At a time like
the present, wlien all classts of society are anxious
to do something for the Empire, I should like to
appeal to the generosity of my fellow gardeners.
There are now in London four general hospitals
dedicated to the use of the Territorial Forces,
that voluntary line of defence whose patriotism
has hitherto saved us from the necessity of con-
scription. These hospitals are anxious to obtain
plants and flowers, so that a bright and cheerful
atmosphere may be maintained in the wards,
where pain is bound to be paramount at this un-
happy time. It occurs to me that exhibitors
at the Royal Horticultural Society's shows at
Vincent Square might like to send some part of
their exhibit, either plants, cut flowers or fruit,
to these hospitals at the close of the day, and that
nurserymen and amateurs as well might care to
join in this really charitable object. I should be
of £90 was realised and given, without any
deductions whatever, towards the National Relief
Fund." These are examples that might well be
followed in other districts where flowers are
abundant.
The Nemesia Sown in May. — ^The beauty and
value of the Nemesia is well attested to in the
photograph and note appearing on page 434.
And I presume from their mature appearance
they are the product of early sown seed, perhaps
March, though no date is given. It may interest
some to know we have a batch of plants about
half grown to their usual size, with a good sprink-
ling of flowers as a result of being sown the first
week in May in a cold frame. The light was
kept on until after growth had commenced and
then removed. This treatment and the removal of
the first showing of flowers kept them back, with
the result that they will be at their best about
the end of this month (September), and, of course,
continue in good order until stopped by frost.
— C, T,, Highgate.
Lewisia Howellii in the Moraine. — it is
interesting and valuable to observe from the
GATHERING ROSES FOR THE PRINCE OF WALES RELIEF FUND.
hicks' NURSERY,
A SCENE IN MR,
pleased to make all arrangements for collection
and distribution in London if intending donors
would communicate with me, either at Balls
Park, Hertford, or at 34, Eccleston Square, S,W,,
and as regards country contributions, I would
send the address of the four hospitals in question
to enable parcels to be sent direct, — B, S, Faudel-
Phillips, Balls Park, Hertford.
Roses for the Relief Fund.— Mr. E. J, Hicks
of Hurst, Twyford, Berks, has undertaken to give
1,000 Roses every Saturday so long as the season
lasts, to be sold in Reading in aid of the Prince
of Wales's Relief Fund, The first Saturday's
sales brought in £r5 15s, 8d,, the highest amount,
£2 gs,, being collected by Miss M, Chalker, Mr,
W, Easlea, Danecroft Rosery, Eastwccd, Essex,
also writes us as follows : " I am happy to say
that one of the leading ladies of Southend
volunteered to sell 2,000 Rose blooms which I
offered. The sanction of the Mayor was obtained,
and some scores of young ladies vied with each
rjther in this work of love for their country. The
2.000 blofjms were quickly disposed of, and another
1,000 sent in, with the result that a grand total
note by Miss Brown on page 434, August 29, that
Lewisia Hejwellii is flowering for the second time
this year in her moraine at Longformacus, Duns,
I grow L, Howellii here also in a whinstone
and lime moraine, but it has shown no
tendency to bloom a second time. It flowered
well in the spring, but if was left purposely
uncovered during the past winter to see how-
it would stand in a moraine as compared
with its conduct on rockwork. It looks as
if the free drainage of the moraine would be
a panacea for the loss of many plants through
rotting off at the neck in winter in wet
districts such as the West of Scotland, It
is considerably drier at Duns, but the glass
overhead may still be a desirable precaution,' —
S, Arnott, Dumfries.
The War and Trade. — Since my note headed
" Help the Trade." which appeared in last week's
issue, was written, I have been in contact with a
good many people engaged in the horticultural
and allied trades, and I have found, in spite of
a most earnest desire to keep workmen employed,
a great deal of real anxiety is felt in regard to
prospects of the immediate future. It has been
confided to me by heads of firms of considerable
importance that not only have orders dropped
to a point of insignificance, but the settlement
of accounts has been neglected by regular and
esteemed customers to such a degree that the
difficulties of the situation have become extreme.
The long credit expected and allowed in all the
trades connected with gardening has always been
a problem fraught with trials for those upon
whose shoulders rest the burden of organisation
and control of business ; but now, of all times,
delay in settlement of accounts strains most
seriously the powers and resources of the business
man who is striving quietly but doggeeily to keep
things on the move. My belief is that those who
have a real love of gardening in their hearts have
also the grace of goodwill, and that a word of
intimation that the payment of an account will
relieve a tradesman's anxiety, and maybe help
him still to keep his men employed, will not fail
to achieve its object. The readers of The Garden
are not immune from the sacrifices imposed upon
the country by the war, and no one may be blamed
for exercising wise economy ; but it seems to
me that those who have been accustomed to
obtain much of their enjoyment from their gardens
may justly consider that by supporting their
tradesmen as generously as they are able, they
will be performing as commendable acts as by
subscribing to relief funds. It is not the nursery-
man and seedsman alone who need the kindly
consideration of the patrons of horticcdture. The
builders of greenhouses and the heating engineers
employ many hands, and theirs is a trade
allied to the gardening world that is feeling the
pinch sorely. At any time it is within the reach
of only the well-favoured classes to erect extensive
ranges of glass houses ; but if such as have the
means will arrange for extensions and improve-
ments they may have had in contemplation to
be put in hand at once, instead of postponing
the work until the war is over, it may mean wages
instead of no wages to some British workmen.
The usual thing in the autumn is to look round
and see what is wanted in the way of new imple-
ments. A new spade or fork, a barrow, a spraying
machine, new cloches or hand-lights are among
one's usual requirements at this season. Let
us hope the orders for these things and for the
usual garden sundries will not be withheld unless
it is really imperative to do so, for it will be an
added catastrophe not only to the individual
tradesman, but to the workers and the nation, if
trade is allowed to stagnate, with the consequent
closing down or bankruptcy of business houses.
My final word is in the ear of the trade themselves.
Remember the power and importance of adver-
tising. In flourishing times it is necessary to
woo trade through the medium of advertisements.
It is even more imperative when things are slow
to fan the enthusiasm of possible buyers by
judicious exhortation, and while realising the
anxiety to shun every avoidable expense, I
venture to opine that a business that is built up
or largely maintained by the aid of advertisements
demands advertisement now, and without it it is
bound to languish. Let it not be thought by
any reader that I assume the privilege or audacity
to dictate to either buyer or seller as to what
should or should not be done ; but if, mixing
closely as I do with traders and workers, I can
indicate the needs of the moment and help to
keep things moving, my epistle will have done
no harm, — Heather Bell.
September 19, 1914.
THE GARDEN.
463
WINTER VEGETABLES AND
SALADS.
|W
'ITHOUT in the slightest degree
partaking in the sensational and
extreme views which urge that
the lawn shouM be converted
into an Onion-bed, and that
Cauliflowers in pots should
occupy the conservatory, I fully agree that the
unusual circumstances of the moment and the
possibility of even grave emergency in the future
justify, and indeed demand, that
some special effort shall be made
to produce as much foodstuff as
possible ; and every owner of a
garden will be doing his duty by
growing what vegetables and
salads he can, either for his own
consumption or to give to poorer
folk, upon whom the burden of
financial distress is likely to press
heavily during the coming winter.
The Garden has already given
its readers sound advice in regard
to the main crops that may be sea-
sonably sown or planted during this
month ; but it may be that some
will like to try their hand at a feu-
things out of the ordinary run, and
there are some kinds that are
decidedly worth attention, especi-
ally where means of protection or
facilities for forcing are available.
One of the simplest things to grow
is American Cress or Land Crc ss ;
but it is a decidedly useful com-
ponent for winter salad, the leaves
being charged with juices that are
an excellent tonic. All that is neces-
sary is to sow the seed in shallow
drills in a position where a fair
amount of moisture is afforded the
growing plants. Keep the surface
of the bed hoed, and as soon as
large enough commence to pick the
leaves. Com Salad or Lamb's
Lettuce is another very easily grown
subject that affords a pleasing
variation to the salad-bowl. Seeds
may be sown either broadcast or in
drills on any available plot of
ground, and, by thinning as soon as
the earliest plants attain four or
five leaves, quite a small bed will
yield a prolonged supply. Chervil
so%vn on a south border or in a
comer that affords some protection
from severe weather will become
useful for flavouring soups, minces,
rissoles, &c. ; and even now it
is not too late to sow Wmler Spinach in pU-xts
where some protection, if only a little loose litter,
can be afforded when bad weather comes.
Use of the Spare Frame. — Now is a time
when the owner of a spare freme may with advan-
tage try his hand at intensive cultivation on the
French gardening system. A hot-bed should be
constructed of slightly larger circumference than
that of the frame, and as soon as the first violent
heat subsides, the frame should be filled with
well-prepared soil to a depth of g inches or
10 inches and made fairly firm. It is possible with
such a frame to grow three crops simultaneously.
First sow Radish seed broadcast over the whole
surface. Next draw drills g inches apart and sow
thinly seed of a good Shorthorn Carrot ; finally
plant with a dibber Lettuces (of Cabbage variety)
not less than a foot apart each way. The Radishes
will rapidly attain a usable size, and can be pulled
before the other crops require the space. The
Lettuces should be cut while still young, and
therefore tender, and thus the Carrots will be
enabled to develop into a useful crop. An alterna-
tive combination would be Turnips in place of
Carrots, and early forcing Cauliflowers in place of
Lettuces. Several seedsmen offer specially selected,
CHRYSANTHEMUMS
SEPTEMBER.
IN
T
A CORNER OF THE SPEAKER'S KOCK GARDEN AT CAMPSEA ASHE.
THE GARDENS WERE FULLY DESCRIBED IN OUR ISSUE FOR
SEPTEMBER 5.
quick-growing varieties of these things that are
adapted to this system of culture. Where green-
house space is available, French Beans can be
sown now and grown on in pots to produce good
winter crops, and space under stages should, during
the winter, be utilised for forcing Rhubarb or
Seakale, bedding the roots in a mixture of soil and
manure, and using mats, canvas or even stiff brown
paper to exclude light. Earthen chimney-pots may
be placed over Rhubarb roots, Seakale or Chicory
in the open beds ; and if the space between the pots
is filled with manure, leaves and straw, the crop
will mature earher. Heather Bell.
HE plants are now niakuig rapid progress,
the wood is also hardening well owing
to the recent hot weather, and so
cultivators will be well advised to
feed liberally all plants before they
are placed under glass. One week of
feeding in the open air is of more advantage than
two weeks under glass, because any undue forcing
of the growth will only result in weakening the
stems of plants that are being
grown for the production of late
flowers. The feeding of those
plants for the production of large
blooms at the end of October and
during November for greenhouse
and conservatory groups must be
continued after the plants have
been placed under glass, as the
flower-stems are firm and the
strength of the plants will go to
these stems and buds.
Top-Dressing and Feeding. —
A few years ago it was considered
sufficient if one good mulch was
put on ; but in these days the work
of top-dressing is continued from
the early part of August to the end
of September and even later.
Instead of putting on a thick
layer of soil and manure, the
cultivator should sift through a
half-inch mesh sieve some good
broken loam that has not been
previously used and some quit*
rotted manure in equal propor-
tions. An approved chemical
manure should be mixed with
the loam, and organic manure .
according to the directions given
with it. The best way to mix
is to pass all through a sieve
together. Sprinkle just sufficient
of the compost on to cover the
roots showing on the surface, and
always water through a rosed
watering-can. In the course of a
week, perhaps less, another sprink-
ling may be necessary, and in
this way a mass of healthy roots
will be secured on the surface,
which can be fed regularly.
Suckers. — The surface-dressings
always encourage suckers to grow,
and these must be carefully re-
moved while quite small until the
latter part of October. Sometimes
they may be broken out of the
soil without much trouble ; but
if a knife is used, care must be taken not to
sever the roots at the same time.
Stem Shoots. — ^These, too, grow rapidly at this
season. They must be rubbed off regularly
from the axils of the leaves, as they rob the plants
of much strength if left to grow to a large size.
Some varieties, notably Hon, Mrs. Lopes, do not
produce soil cuttings freely, and do not bear
stem ones at the base. Where this is the
case, the cultivator should leave the shoots
on after the end of September for insertion
as early cuttings, in case better ones cannot
be procured.
464
THE GARDEN.
[September 19, 1914.
Syringing the Plants. — This is very beneficial
if done about five o'clock in the afternoon on
warm days. Especially is it helpful in cases
where the wood is hard and the stems of the buds
too. The water must be tepid ; then the buds will
swell freely. The syringing tends to keep the
foliage free from black and green aphides without
the use of insecticides. .\vo>j.
CLEMATIS MONTANA ON
SPRUCE.
THE illustration on this page shows what
pleasant surprises a garden will pro-
vide for its planter if now
and then he will let a
plant have its own way
and make and carry out
its own arrangements. It must be
twenty years since this Clematis was
planted at the foot of a Walnut
tree that overhung the road and
filled the space behind the wall just ,
to the left of the lodge. In the ij'
Walnut season it made a target for .,''
every small boy who could find a
loose stone in the road. Sometimes
the stone hit a nut and fell with it
into the road again, but more often
the stones missed their mark and fell
into the garden, and it was scarcely
safe to remain in that part of the
garden except during school hours.
This trouble, added to the fact that
the Walnut shaded the best part of
the border and was too big for its
place, led to its being cut down ;
but as the Clematis was not injured
in the operation we trained it on
to the wall, and it soon ran all along
Jhe top and hung down, as can be
seen in the illustration, into the
road, to be a real Traveller's Joy
when in full flower. Then it decided
for itself that it would climb into
the Spruce, and now it has reached
to the very top of it, and the trails
that hang down flower beautifully
each May. In early autumn and
onward till the winter, winds scatter
the fluffy seeds, give a sort of encore
turn, and once again make a white
pillar of the tree. The root of this
Clematis is close behind the wall
in the very left-hand of the pic-
ture, and the stem is by now quite
a tree trunk ; and looking at it
and the pillar of snow nearer the
gate it is quite hard to believe the
two are parts of one plant. The
combination of the dark green of the
Spruce and tlie white flowers of the Clematis
is a very pleasing one, and where trees to
which no special value is attached exist,
the Clematis might be planted for the purpose.
I should like to see the curtain of blossom
hang right down the wall, but passers-by think
otherwise, and shorten it up as high as they can
reacli. What pedestrians leave is further pruned
by folk in carts, so it remains at a regular height
from the ground likf trees in a park browsed by
cattle. Anyway, the Clematis flowers have provided
a substitute for the vanished Walnuts without
endangering my skull. E. A. Bowles.
NOTES ON CARNATIONS.
D
FFERENT people have different
times for planting out layers to
stand the winter and bloom the
next year. I like to plant in the
second, or at latest in the third
week of the present month. The
reason is that the layers are then well rooted
and transplant with efficient balls, also that
there is time for the plants to be thoroughly
established before the winter, and consequently
in a condition to withstand the evils of that season.
The principal points to observe in planting are
CLEMATIS MONTANA GROWING OVER A SPRUCE TREE IN
MR. E. A. BOWLES' GARDEN AT WALTHAM CROSS.
to plant shallow rather than deep, the Carnation
being suffruticose, and therefore subject to disease
in the stem when that is buried tmduly. Then,
provided the soil has been thoroughly pulverised
and in suitable condition at the time of planting,
it ought to be made very firm round the plants.
If these are very strong or tall, a short stick
should be afforded each to steady it until
established. In heavy soils in which moisture
fails to pass away rapidly, it is worth forming
the beds in a convex form rather than flat.
Beds intended for effect may be planted much
closer than those which are expected to
produce single blooms of the best quality,
but it must be understood that close planting
and layering are for decorative purposes only.
Plants to be Wintered in Pots may, and
should, if at all con\'onient, be seen to at once.
If the plants are to be satisfactory for planting
out in spring, it is important that the flower-
pots in which they are to be wintered should be
large enough to enable them to gain strength,
and the very weakest only be placed in 3-inch
pots, stronger ones in 4-inch, and very strong
layers in pots of a slightly larger size. If
wet weather sets in, the plants should be
protected by sashes at once and kept as drj-
as it is possible to keep them to permit of
a slow growth. It is invariably at
• -, ;-j this period that disease attacks
the foliage, though it may be later
until it is apparent, and wet or
damp is invariably the predisposing
cause.
Seedling-Raising is an engrossing
side issue, and seeds will now be
quite ripe on plants in the open.
The seed-vessels should be preserved
with the seeds intact, in which they
can be perfectly well kept till the
spring. Malmaisons still in frames
must not be left there so long as
to become victims of leaf disease.
The watering of these is by far
the most important part of their
management now and onwards, and
no more water should be applied
than just enough to preserve them
in perfect health, nothing in the way
of growth extension being attempted.
If the plants can be stood on a
cool base, it is much to be pre-
ferred— owing to a certain amount
of moisture being conserved in the
under part of the pots — to standing
them on open trellises.
Late-Flowering Plants must be
treated to enough moisture at the
roots to favour the due develop-
ment of the flowers, and the
atmospheric conditions should simi-
larly be favourable to that end.
But forcing of any kind only ends
in weakened stems, and blooms
flaccid and wanting in colour. The
plants after flowering are worthless.
The time is one of quiet waiting
t;cnerally as regards Perpetuals,
though some growers have a very
profuse display already, which will,
no doubt, be discounted by a
lireakdown in the supply of bloom
later. I have still numbers of
flowers on second year plants,
and these are so promising that
unbloomed stock would appear to be almost a
superfluity. Meanwhile the latter are allowed
to come along slowly to make sure of a good
midwinter display. We have quite a nice lot of
planted-out material, some of which will,
before this appears, be lifted and potted for
house decoration later, and this simple phase
of Carnation growing might well be considered
on its merits by those whose means do not
allow of special treatment. In my next instal-
ment I shall hope to have a good deal
to say about Perpetuals.
Prestonkirk, N.B. R. P. BKOiMERsrox.
September 19, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
465
THE GIANT ASPHODELS.
AMONG hardy perennial herbaceous plants
the Giant Asphodels occupy a pinnacle
of their own, an impregnable position
L from which they are not likely to
^ be displaced. To realise this in
fullest measure, one has to see them
rightly placed in the garden in the heyday of their
summer beauty rearing their lofty spires to 8 feet
or 12 feet high, when, by reason of a stateliness
which raises them head and shoulders above
all other flower plants of their time, they simply
impel admiration. In other groups of herbaceous
plants — in Lily, Larkspur, Sunflower and Torch
Lily — fine floral effects and not a little picturesque-
ness are available. These, however, have a beauty
apart which does not come into competition
■with the noble Asphodels, and were it otherwise
it could not displace them from their high estate.
In a word, therefore, they are unique, ranking
high in the estimation of those who
garden chiefly in the open air, and
higher still with those who, realis-
ing their fuller value when amid
suitable environment, so dispose
them in shrubbery or woodland
that fresh pictures are added to
the landscape worthy of the plants
themselves. For such gardening as
this these Asphodels are well
suited, none appearing to greater
advantage than those seen
springing from a groundwork of
dwarf shrubs or in near proximity
to Holly or Yew, which, apart from
their protective influence, mirror
them into fuller life and beauty,
constitute a fitting foil — a frame it
may be — to the picture-making
effects of the whole. For the dark
foil mentioned, the white Eremurus ^Vj!35sS>^
himalaicus is peculiarly well suited,
the others appearing to greater
advantage where light filters on to
them from behind. It is amid
such scenes, too, that the plants
admit of free grouping, and while
finding a congenial home are freed
from the frequent risks of digging,
hoeing and the like, inseparable
from the ordinary border. For the
latter I would only recommend the
smaller-rooted species, as Bungei,
and Shelford, those of the robustus type having
a greater root spread — the rope-like thongs radiate
like the spokes of a cart-wheel from a common
centre — requiring more space, with immunity
from disturbance.
Adaptability and Grouping. — Interspersed with
the foregoing remarks will be found suggestions
as to the adaptability of these plants for shrubbery
and woodland. In such places they not only
display themselves to greater advantage, but
receive protection from high winds, and, best
of all, from the disfiguring and sometimes damaging
■effects of spring frosts. For such as E. robustus
and its varieties and E. himalaicus, the early
risers of the group, such protection is more neces-
sary than for those coming later. Apart from
this protection, both shrubbery and woodland
have an influence for good on the longevity of
the floral display, the flowering lasting longer
in such than in the fuller sunlight of the border.
In reality I do not advise the planting of these
Eremuri in the border, for reasons already stated.
For the thousands of those who possess no woodland
and comparatively small shrub borders, however,
I would suggest the selecting of a place apart
where comparative immunity from disturbance
would be ensured. In such, with a south-west
exposure, the plants would be safe. In grouping,
it is only necessary to observe informality, with
abundant room for development, " Massing,"
so called, is to be discouraged, and in place thereof
that easy disposal of the plants which borders
on the natural. Where dwarf shrubs are used
as a groundwork, these naturally correct attempts
at more formal planting, besides playing an
important part otherwise. Where planting is
being done over a large area, the indi^viduals
need not be nearer than 5 feet or 6 feet
asunder.
Soil Requirements.— These Eremuri are not
fastidious as to soil, and are of quite easy culti-
vation in all classes of loam provided they
GARDEN PRITILLARIES.
{Continued from page 451.)
Fritillaria pontica. — There is a small group
which always gives me pleasure to look at because
of a something about the flowers that appeals to me
as being " blue-blooded." In colouring they are
insignificant. In fact, pontica, the best of them,
is almost entirely pale green, but their large,
long bells, generally solitary, are very handsome
in shape. They have no chequering, but a rich,
glaucous bloom covers the flower, and the stems
are taller and more slender and rigid than in some
of the commoners of the family. With pontica I
should place Elwesii and acmopetala. They are
good perennials, and have showy, erect seed-pods.
F. Thunbergi is an interesting little Japanese
species, seldom seen in gardens, yet almost a weed
with me — it spreads so easily. It represents a
very distinct section, which has slender leaves
A COLONY OF SEEDLING GIANT ASPHODELS OR EREMURI.
are well drained. One of the finest solitary
examples of E. robustus that came my way a
dozen or more years ago was five years planted
in light sandy soil and measured 11 feet 6 inches
high. Warmth of soil — that promoted by good
drainage — appears to be essential, the plants
abhorring clay soils of a close, tenacious character.
For the giants of the race, in addition to depth, a
considerable superficial soil area should be prepared,
seeing that the great roots extend to 3 feet or more
from the central crown. To sum up, well-
cultivated, well-enriched, amply drained positions
of 6 feet diameter should be prepared, and in such
they will be happy for years. For those of lesser
vigour and root spread, one-half of this diameter
will be enough. All, however, merit generous
treatment and repay it. Next week I hope to give
some particulars of the various groups into which
these noble plants can be conveniently arranged
for purposes of cultivation, E. H, Jenkins.
{To be continued.)
with curled, hook-like tips, and the little masses
of grey foliage that it makes are really more orna-
mental than its flowers, which are rather lacking
in character. The FritUlaries seem full of puzzles
to the botanists. On one hand they can hardly
be separated from the true Lilies ; on the other,
they show such differences in essential characters
that many botanists would split them up into
several genera.
F. discolor is one of these abnormal forms. It
is an uncommon plant, thoroughly established
with me, which has also been named Korolkowia
discolor. It is handsome enough, and wins quiet
admiration, but is not very showy on account of
the large leaf-like, grey bracts which subtend the
flowers. The star-shaped flowers are held almost
horizontally on short stalks, and have a quiet
colour-scheme of greenish yellow and crimson,
with crimson anthers. This flowers in early
March, and grows about eighteen inches high.
Like the rest, I have it in soil on the hea\T side.
466
THE GARDEN.
[September 19, 1914.
F. macropbylla is another strange plant we now
recognise as a Fritillary, although Wallich named
it Lilium roseum, and Lindley, Lilium thompsoni-
anum. It bears a long panicle of rosy lUac flowers
in April and May. Loam, leaf-soil and limestone
are recommended for it, but I never succeeded
in keeping it very long.
F. sarana (Linnaeus' Lilium kamtschatcense),
the Black Lily, is another rather difficult plant
both to place rightly in the herbarium and to
grow properly in our gardens. The blackish
maroon flowers, with yellow anthers, are very
striking.
F. obliqua, however, which also has blackish,
handsome bells, I do manage with success.
I first saw and admired it in the garden of
the Rev. Arthur Boscawen, and that prince of
gardeners afterwards sent me a stock which gives me
no difficulty in keeping, although
I cannot say it spreads much.
F. aurea and F. armena are
delightful little species, so cheap
that everybody should plant them
by the hundred. F. aurea is from
the alpine pastures of Cilicia, and
is a beautiful little subject for the
alpine-house. F. armena also comes
from Asia Minor, and small col-
lected bulbs are generally sent out.
F. pyrenaica, from the Pyrenees,
is an easily kept plant, and I like it
for its graceful habit as well as for
its rather dark bells. It grows
about a foot high or a little less,
and carries solitary fleshy bells,
almost entirely purple maroon out-
side, but worth lifting to look at
the glossy green within.
It is rather strange that while
some of our easiest species come
from Asia Minor and other places,
with climates quite opposite in their
general conditions to our own, yet
when we get hold of the alpine
species of Europe they often prove
quite intractable. Twenty to thirty
years ago the gardening papers used
to ring the praises of the beautiful
F. Moggridgei, which makes
sheets of yellow in the upland slopes
of the Maritime Alps, and of its
close relative, the plum purple
Bumati. " Very easily managed,"
was the comment on them, and
further particulars were not
thought necessary ; but I do not
know a garden where they exist to-day, nor do
nurserymen any longer list them. Who will tell
us their secret ? R. W. Wallace.
[To be continued.)
flowering the result of stopping and late
propagation. From Messrs. T. B. Grove and Son,
Sutton Coldfield, Birmingham.
Amaryllis Belladonna speciosa purpurea. —
A very handsome, richly coloured form whose
stems are also of an attractive colour shade.
The variety is bold and freely flowered. From
Messrs. Robert Veitch and Co., Exeter.
Lilium Biondii. — A very graceful new Chinese
species whose reflexing, orange-coloured flowers
are heavily spotted with crimson. The linear
leaves are 3 inches or 4 inches long and thickly
crowd the lower parts of the stems, which reach
about four feet high.
Aster Amellus King George. — Quite the
largest of the Italian Starworts to date, the
flowers reaching nearly three inches across and of
a good blue colour. In a word, the new-comer
Dahlia Marguerite Phillips (Cactus).— The
florets are somewhat broad and quite pure white.
Dahlia Kismet (Cactus). — A graceful variety
in whicli the narrow, incurving florets are coloured
a reddish carmine.
Dahlia The Swan (Cactus). — Quite pure white,
with acutely pointed florets.
Dahlia Mrs. Edward Drury (Cactus) —The
colour is reddish scarlet in a particularly handsome
flower. These five were exhibited by Messrs.
J. Stredwick and Son, St. Leonards.
Dahlia White Star. — A semi-double-flowered
seedling from Crawley Star, also recognised as
the Cosmea-flowered Dahlia. The white is quite
pure in a flower of medium size. This variety
should prove invaluable for cutting by reason
of its purity and informality.
Dahlia Worth Star.— This is also of the same
race, slightly more cupped and
formal-looking, and colotired a
rosy mauve with gold centre.
Dahlia Eden (Collarette).— We
know of nothing in its section to
equal this in purity and substance.
The stem, too, is excellent, and
carries the flowers well up. Both
inner and outer florets are exceed-
ingly chaste and pure. These
three were shown by Messrs. J.
Cheal and Sons, Crawley.
The foregoing Dahlias were
adjudicated upon by a joint com-
mittee of the National Dahlia
Society and the floral committee
of the Royal Horticultural Society ;
hence are entitled to the first- ,
class certificate of the former and
the award of merit of the latter
society.
NEW FRUIT.
Blackberry Himalayan Giant.
We did not see this variety,
which was sent up from Wisley
for inspection. From Messrs.
La.xton Brothers, Bedford. Award
of merit.
A SPRAY
NEW AND RARE PLANTS.
AWARDS OF MERIT.
Campanula Norman Grove. — A pretty hybrid
Bellflower said to have resulted from crossing
C. carpatica White Star and C. tommasiniana.
As a matter of fact, there is little or no apparent
influence of the cross save in the slight semblance
of foliage to the last-named kind. The plant is
barely 6 inches high, flowers blue, profusely borne
above a neat habit. The flowers are horizontally
disposed after the manner of C. Stansfieldii. Its
best flowering season is said to be June, its present
OF THE NEW DWARF ITALIAN STARWORT
AMELLUS KING GEORGE.
should prove to the early border what Climax
is to the late border. The Lilium and this Star-
wort came from Mr. Amos Perry, Enfield.
Gladiolus Lord Alverstone. — A rather hand-
some, well-formed spike with flowers of good
substance, coloured a deep ruby crimson. From
Messrs. James Kelway and Son, Langport.
Dahlia Lovely (Decorative). — The flower is
of good size, and ciiloured a refined and pleasing
yellow shade.
Dahlia Etoile Rose (Garden Cactus), — The
predominating shade is pink, and very pleasing
withal.
Dahlia Stella (Collarette). — Of pronounced
scarlet and white ci 'louring, very striking and effec-
tive. These were shown by Mr. C. Turner, Slough.
Dahlia Rotiier (Pompon Cactus). — A pretty
and useful sort for cutting, the reddish florets
having pinky white tips.
NEW ORCHIDS.
Cattleya Sybil variety Lord
Kitchener (C. aurea x C. irides-
cens). — A striking and beautiful
ASTER novelty. Through the centre of
the sepals and petals runs a
golden band, from which point this
colour is suffused with salmon rose. The lobe
of the lip is of rich crimson, the basal half of
golden orange hue. A very remarkable variety.
From. Messrs. Hassall and Co., Southgate, N.
First-class certificate.
Cattleya iridescens aurifera (C. bicolor x C.
Eldorado). — Sepals and petals golden, the well-
developed lip of rich purple. Exhibited by Messrs.
E. H. Davidson and Co., Twyford. Award of merit.
Lselio-Cattleya Hyone McBean's Variety
(L.-C. Ophir x C. aurea). — .\ charming variety
in which the sepals and petals are golden, with
a suffusion of salmon. The handsome lip is of
rich crimson, -freely reticulated with gold at the
base. From Messrs. J. and A. McBcan, Cooks-
bridge, Sussex, Award of merit.
All the foregoing were shown at the Royal
Horticultural Hall on the 8th inst., when the
awards were made.
September 19, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
467
GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS.
BEDS AND BORDERS FOR SPRING FLOWERS.
A FINE display of blossom may be obtained
from bulbs and other flowering subjects
in spring in a very small garden. Every
year cultivators like to have some fresh feature
in their gardens, and if they are not able to
A. SHOWING DESIGN FOR DRY WALL
AND BORDER.
make new beds, they can at least have fresh
designs.
Old Stone or Brick Walls.— Where these are
available — I mean really old walls more or less
broken, as only such are suitable — the holes
may be filled up with a mixture of loam and
a small quantity of clay. The clay must be
used to form cups in the face of the wall,
where odd stones or bricks are removed, to
help to retain the finer soil and the roots of the
plants. Leaf-soil should not be used ; it is too
light and dries too quickly. Soil must also be
placed on the top of the wall. Where walls are not
now in existence, and material for them is readily
available, they may be built to form a background
in a suitable quarter, or as an ornamental division
fence. The height of the wall should be in propor-
tion to its surroundings and its length. If more
than 50 feet long, it may be 30 inches high ; if
under 20 feet, 18 inches will be high enough.
Mortar need not be used in the construction of
these walls ; they may be dry-built or with layers
of ordinary soil between the stones or bricks.
Such walls are splendid for facing up broken
banks ; then a nice wide border for plants can be
made at the top as well as one at the foot, as shown
at No. I, Fig. A. The border may be filled with
bulbs, early and late flowering Narcissi, with
Snowdrops and Polyanthuses at the foot of the
wall, and a front bordering of Aubrietias. At the
top, No. 2, Wallflowers, Aubrietias, double and
single flowered Arabis and Sedums, Saxifrages
and similar kinds of plants should be planted in
irregular clumps. When well planted and the
arrangement is good, these old walls and borders
do not entail much labour in maintaining them
in a satisfactory condition. The border, No, r,
will be available for summer-flowering subjects in
due course, and the wall, with its top border, may
be easily furnished with a few additional plants.
Foimal Beds. — In many gardens there is only
space for long, narrow borders on each side of the
path leading to the dwelling-house. These borders
are so placed that all their occupants can be seen
from the windows, and, according to the taste of
the owner, they may be filled with brilliantly
flowered bulbs or the more subdued tones of the
Wallflowers, Polyanthuses, Primroses, Aubrietias,
Arabis, &c. No, i represents the dwelling-house ;
Nos, 2, 2, broad bands of Aubrietias ; Nos, 3, 3,
double Arabis, with dot plants of golden yellow
Wallflowers, Or Nos. 2, 2 may be double Arabis ;
Nos, 3, 3, blue Forget-me-nots, with scarlet Tulips
planted i foot apart each way. Many schemes of
planting may be carried out. No. 4 represents
DESIGNS FOR BORDERS IN FRONT OF
A HOUSE.
the path. Then there are isolated beds in gardens,
and all the more important ones are round, oval
or square in shape. Complicated or fantastic
designs never look well ; especially is this the case
where the beds are small. The designs of Figs. C
and B are given as guides only, as many other
ways of filling the beds may be adopted, A red,
white and blue bed may be had by planting
Fig, C as follows : No, i, blue Myosotis ; Nos. 2, 2,
white Tulips ; Nos, 3, 3, scarlet Tulips, Hyacinths
may be used instead of Tulips, No. i, white
Daisies, with the whole of the centre of the bed
filled with Blood Red Wallflowers, is another
scheme ; or. No. i, red Daisies, the whole of the
centre blue Myosotis, with dot plants of white
Hyacinths or white Tulips, Fig, B shows a raised
bed. This is a good way of treating very heavy
soils, where the plants must be grown in them
throughout the winter months. These beds have
a very charming effect, and may be filled in various
ways. The centre, No. r, Polyanthuses, mixed
colours ; No. 2, Aubrietias or Giant White Daisies —
the red Daisies would clash with some of the colours
of the Polyanthuses, Wallflowers may be planted
with Arabis as an edging. No, r, white Hyacinths ;
No, 2, red Daisies, or vice versa — white Daisies
and red Hyacinths, The latter are too formal for
edgings, Arabis, Aubrietias, Myosotis and Daisies
are the most effective as edging plants, G, G.
HOW TO TREAT TUBEROUS
BEGONIAS AND GLOXINIAS.
Towards the end of the summer the more forward
plants of the above show signs of exhaustion. Un-
doubtedly many bulbs are weakened now owing to
being improperly treated. Scores of plants, which
are healthy with the exception of a few basal main
leaves, are allowed to become dry too early ;
consequently the tubers gradually lose much
strength in the autumn and start badly the follow-
ing spring. Such plants should be fed regularly
with weak doses of manure-water or other
approved stimulant. When the Begonia leaves
assume a yellow tint, stop all feeding and also
gradually withhold clear water. Gloxinias and
Gesneras : When all the flowers have faded and
the leaves begin to droop, gradually withhold
water, and only give one watering after all the
leaves are removed. Retain the tubers in the
soil in the pots until next spring, and keep them
in a medium temperature, never nearer to the
hot-water pipes than 2 feet. Cover the pots with
mats ; then the tubers will not dry-rot. Avo.v.
B AND C. SUGGESTIONS FOR FORMAL
BEDS FOR SPRING EFFECT.
468
THE GARDEN.
[September 19, 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruit Under Glass.
Tomatoes. — The plants from which supplies
are expected in the winter should be setting fruit
freely, and will require careful attention to water-
ing. ' Examine the pots several times daily, and
water thoroughly as it becomes necessary. All
side shoots should be removed as they appear,
and when sufficient trusses have set, the top may
be pinched out of each plant. Liquid manure
should then be given, and the roots may be top-
dressed with fine loam and artificial manure.
Seeds can now be sown to produce plants for
early spring fruiting. Sow thinly in pans of
fine soil, and when the young plants are through
the surface, the pans should be placed quite close
to the roof glass in a well-ventilated pit. In
order to keep the plants stocky, pot into small pots
when large enough and avoid cold draughts during
the winter.
Early Vines. — if ripe Grapes are desired in
April, pot Vines should be selected at once and
placed in an exposed position, preferably a south
wall or in front of some forcing-house facing
south. Let the Vines be cut back to the desired
length at once, so that the wound may be dried
up and a serious loss of sap avoided. These
Vines should be started early in November. In
the meantime the roots must not be allowed to
become too dry.
Ripe Grapes. — Bunches of ripe Grapes should
be frequently examined and all decaying berries
removed. Ventilate the house freely and protect
the bunches from scorching sun, especially black
varieties, which scon lose their colour through
exposure.
Plants Under Glass.
Mignonette. — Seeds may still be sown to
produce plants for flowering in the spring. Five-
inch pots should be used, and the soil may consist
of rich loam, which should be mixed with lime
rubble in place of sand. Let the soil be moderately
dry and make it verj' firm. Sow the seeds thinly
and place the pots in a cold pit, which must be
protected from strong sun imtil germination takes
place. When large enough, the seedlings should
be thinned to four or five in each pot. As soon
as good growth has been made, the plants may
be removed to the shelf of a greenhouse, quite
close to the roof glass.
Cinerarias for winter flowering should be
removed from the cold pits to a well-ventilated
greenhouse. Examine the plants and, if neces-
sary', fumigate before their removal from the
pits. Later plants in small pots should now be
transferred to their flowering pots. Keep the
pit close for a few davs until the plants are re-
established, after which air should be freely given.
The most forward plants may be freely watered
with weak liquid manure from the farmyard.
Lachenalias. — The bulbs of these charming
plants should now be potted in well-crocked
pots. The soil may consist of two parts rich loam,
one part leaf-soil, and the remainder of cow-
manure and rough sand or road grit. Six or
seven bulbs can be placed in 5-inch pots and
covered with half an inch of fine soil. A good
watering should be given, and the pots may be
placed on a bed of ashes in a shallow pit from
which frost can be excluded in the winter. Very
little water will be necessary diu'ing the winter
until growth is well advanced, after which a liberal
supply must be given.
The Flower Garden.
Autumn-Flowering Chrysanthemums.— These
should now be at their best, and ought to receive
careful attention with regard to supporting the
flower - stems against rough wind or heavy
rain. If one good stick is placed in the middle
of each clump, the flower-stems may be secured
separately to the same support ; and if dry weather
prevails, a good supply of water will be necessary.
Spring Bedding Plants. — ^The stock of plants
should be examined with regard to numbers, and if
there is any doubt about this matter, more plants can
be pricked out from the seed-beds, so that, when the
lime for planting arrives, there maybe no scarcity
of plants. The plants in nursery beds should
have the soil stirred between them frequently,
in order to promote clean, healthy growth.
The Rock Garden. — The most important work
in eonnectinu with the rock garden now is the
transplanting of young seedlings or plants raised
from cuttings. Small pots may be used for
tender subjects requiring the protection of a frame
during the winter, but those which are quite
hardy may be planted in their permanent quarters
as soon as possible. Cut back overgrown plants
and keep the surroundings quite free from weeds.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Gathering Fruit. — This work should be done
while the fruits are quite dry, especially if they
are to be placed in the store-room for home use.
Great care should be exercised in picking each
individual fruit, taking care that none of them
is bruised before they are placed in the fruit-
room. Later varieties of Apples and Pears must
be allowed to remain on the trees as long as
possible, especially if they are in a sheltered
position.
Root-Pruning. — In the case of overgrown
trees which are unproductive year after year,
root-pruning may be commenced at once. A
trench should be taken out to the depth of 4 feet
and 6 feet from the stem, so that the soil may
be carefully worked back. All strong roots
which are growing in a downward direction should
be cut, also those which are without fibres and
running too far from the tree. When this has
been accomplished, the space should be carefully
filled in with suitable soil and the roots replaced
in the same manner as if planting a young
tree. In the case of young trees which are growing
too freely, it is better to lift them entirely and
replant them, keeping the roots as near the surface
as possible.
The Kitchen Garden.
Winter Salad. — Every available pit should be
filled with Lettuce or other salad plants with
as little delay as possible. If seeds were sown
in August, there ought to be plenty of strong plants
ready now, and it is better practice to plant both
Lettuce and Endive in the pits now than to wait
imtil they are in an advanced state and then lift
them, which may be after they are injured by
frost.
Parsley. — The principal bed of Parsley should
be cut close to the ground, in order to promote
the growth of dwarf green leaves, which will
stand through the winter better than plants
which are left uncut.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Carrots. — The storing of Carrots must now
claim attention, particularly those growing on
cold or wet soils. Experience has shown that,
although the tops appear perfectly fresh, yet in wet
seasons the Carrots split badly if allowed to remain
in the ground after this date. Not only so, but
they become so coarse that they are only fit for
feeding cattle. If lifted now they will keep
perfectly fresh stored in pits with a little soil
thrown on the top of each layer. Where wire-
worm has been present, the ground should receive
a good dressing of gas-lime, after which it may be
allowed to lie on the surface for a time before
digging it in.
Beet may also be lifted and stored any time
after this date, and as this is the most tender of all
root crops, the greatest care must be taken in
doing so. The tops had better be twisted off with
the hands, as there is great danger from bleeding
if a knife is used, especially if cut too near the
crown.
Seakale. — Continue to keep the ground clear
of weeds and decayed leaves, and run the hoe
among the rows to encourage the formation of the
crowns. However carefully they have been dressed
before planting, flowering shoots will appear,
which must be cut out at once.
The Flower Garden.
Dianthus Napoleon III. — Altliough the majority
of the channiug and beautiful Dianthi are not
difiicult to grow, yet this variety often causes
great heart-burning. This season, however, it has
bloomed well and given great satisfaction. The
chief essentials to success are good drainage, a
light, porous soil, and sufficient moisture during
summer. Where cuttings can be procured, they
should be inserted now in the alphie frame, where
they will root freely, and whatever losses may take
place during the winter, these cuttings will provide
next season's supply.
Viola gracilis. — This fine Grecian variety, with
its deep violet flowers and compact habit, cannot
fail to arrest attention in any collection. Its
proper place, perhaps, is in a shady comer of the
rockery where it will get a plentiful supply of
moisture. It may also be used as a grotmdwork
for some of the moisture - loving subtropical
plants. It is easily increased by divisions ; but
where the supply is limited, cuttings may be taken
now, which should make nice plants by the
spring.
Sweet Peas. — From an exhibition point of view.
Sweet Peas cannot be said to have been quite up
to the standard usually seen in the North.
Whether this was due to the cold weather we
experienced in the late spring and early summer
I cannot say ; at all events, they remained more
or less stunted all the season. To avoid dis-
appointment next spring, it will be advisable to
harvest as many of the seed- pods as can be secured.
This to the average grower is a very small matter
indeed, and will not entail much time or labour.
Growers in the South may have been more fortu-
nate ; but in these uncertain times it will be as
well to take precautions.
Plants Under Glass.
Perpetual-Flowering Carnations. — Where these
have been grown in cold frames during the summer
months, they had better be moved to their
flowering quarters. Not but what they can
stand any amount of cold ; it is the dampness
that is to be avoided, as this is certain to encourage
attacks of rust, besides weakening the growths.
As a precaution against green fly, the house had
better be fumigated. The most forward plants will
now be pushing up their flower-spikes, and may be
given some artificial feeding.
Nerines. — These fine autumn- flowering bulbs
must now receive attention, and although their
culture is of the easiest description, they are not
always seen at their best. Perhaps the too free
use of the water-pot is in a great measure
responsible for this. Plants that have been stored
should now be brought out and placed on a shelf
in a cool house, and on no account must water be
given until the flower-spikes appear. If water
is given before this, the result will be an abundant
crop of leaves and very few flowers. The plants
must not be repotted very often ; it is surprising
liow long they will thrive in small pots.
Mignonette. — Another sowing should now be
made to provide a succession to those sown last
month. Sow one or two seeds in small pots and
place on a shelf in the greenhouse or in a cold frame.
If specimens are desired, thin to one plant and pot
on as required. It wiU be well to remember that
all blooms must be nipped out as they appear
until the plant has grown to the desired height.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Morello Cherries. — Now that most of the fruit
will have been gathered, the trees should be gone
over and all unnecessary growths removed to enable
next year's fruiting wood to be better exposed to
the weather. Any trees that have been infested
with insects should be syringed with some solution.
Melons. — Plants that are now swelling their
fruits often show a tendency to flag ; but with
care in watering and judicious ventilation this can,
to a certain extent, be obviated. Syringing the
plants might almost be dispensed with, but con-
tinue to damp the walls and paths.
Midseason Vines. — When the Grapes have been
gathered, the shoots should be half-pruned to
enable the basal buds to be fully developed. Should
red spider have become troublesome, this is
a favourable opportunity to get rid of it.
Fumigation with potassium sulphide is, perhaps,
the most eft'ective fumigant for this purpose.
Remove the smrf ace-dressing and fallen leaves,
which will undoubtedly contain all manner of
insects. Water should be given to the border if
required, but avoid over-watering.
JOHN HiGUGATE.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopcloun Gardens, Sotith Qucenslcrry, N.B.
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GARDEN.!
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No. 2236.— Vol. LXXVIII.
September 26,
1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
To Our Readers. — Since the outbreak of war
there has been a natural tendency to economise
wherever possible. The result of this economy
has naturally been to inflict considerable hardship
on many sections of the community, and few
industries have felt the pinch worse than those
connected with the supply of plants and seeds
for our gardens. For this reason we make a
direct appeal to all our readers who can possibly
afford it to refrain from cutting down their seed,
bulb or plant orders to the irreducible minimum.
Every order placed now means work for a thoroughly
deserving class of men who, unless business can
be kept going as usual, will certainly be without
the means of earning their daily
bread. At this time of strife the
quiet and natural beauty so
characteristic of the gardens of
this country should provide a
welcome solace to those whose
minds are distracted by stories and
scenes of war. Already many who
have been stricken in war are re-
turning home, and surely there is
no better place for convalescence
than a well-ordered garden. While
sympathising fully with those who
feel it necessary to economise in
many directions, we would remind
them that the expenditure for
plants, seeds or bulbs is not a very
large item of expense. To curtail
it seriously would be to interfere
with the employment of many
workmen in the large houses, and
would also lessen the pleasure
which letuming soldiers might
otherwise find in the garden.
White Heather in September.
One of the best forms of White
Heather flowering in our gardens
just nowisa variety of the common
Ling, and named Calluna vulgaris alba Serlei,
It makes a dense bush from i8 inches to 2 feet
high, and branches freely, so that it is quite a
useful and strong plant. Its pure white flowers
arc produced in abundance, so that there is plenty
of material for cutting at this season. It needs the
same treatment as that afforded the hardy Heaths,
viz,, well-drained soil, free from lime, and
moderately rich in humus or decayed vegetable
matter,
A Beautiful itiichaelmas Daisy. — Among the
earlier-flowering Starworts or Asters there are few
more beautiful than the variety LU Fardell, This
belongs to the Novje-Angliae section, and is a
useful plant for filling large beds or for creating
bright patches of colour in the autumn border.
It attains a height of about five feet, the large
flowers being freely produced in clusters on erect
stems. The colour is bright glowing rose, and in
their early stages each has a prominent yellow disc,
which forms a pleasing contrast to the outer florets,
A Charming Chinese Shrub. — In Sophora
viciifolia, a native of Western China, we have a
particularly graceful hardy shrub, and one that
is as yet unknown in many gardens. It was in
1897 when this shrub was first introduced to
Kew, but since that time seeds have been sent
home by several collectors, so that there must
be a good stock of it in various nurseries. The
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FLOWERING SHOOTS OF SOPHORA VICIIFOLIA,
WESTERN CHINA,
A HARDY SHRUB FROM
illustration gives a good idea of the shape of the
leaves, which are about two inches long, and also
of the flowers, which are bluish white, each having
a decided blue calyx. This Sophora is perfectly
hardy, but likes a sunny position and well-drained
soil that is not too heavy. Apart from these
details, it needs no special treatment.
National Sweet Pea Society's Trials ot
Novelties. — ^The National Sweet Pea Society
has decided to hold its trials of novelties as usual
next year. Those who wish to send seeds of
novelties for trial should send thirty of each
variety to the secretary, Mr. H, D, Tigwell, Green-
ford, Middlesex, to reach him not later
than October roth. A fee of 2s. 6d. must
accompany each variety sent for trial. The
seeds must be in a plain sealed packet, and this
packet enclosed in another larger envelope. This
outer packet must bear the raiser's name, the
name or number of the variety, and its colour
description.
Rhododendrons for the Panama Pacific Inter-
national Exposition. — Messrs, R, Gill and Son
of Falmouth inform us that they have secured
the order to supply the Rhododendrons required
for planting the grounds of the above exposition, to
be held at San Francisco in 1915, Some idea of the
magnitude of the order may be gleaned from the fact
that over seven thousand plants are ordered, among
them 100 of the well-known variety
Cornubia, these plants being 6 feet
high and 5 feet through. All the
plants are well budded, and look
well and give great promisei, so
they ought to make a fine
display.
A Grey - Leaved Plant for
Autumn Effect. — At this season,
when most of the outdoor flowers
have had their beauty spoiled by
the cold winds and rain, the quiet
beauty of the foliage of some is
more fuUy appreciated. One of the
best grey-leaved plants is the
Lavender Cotton, a low-growing
shrub that rejoices in the awesome
botanical name of Santolina
Cham«cyparis5us, For creating
bold splashes of soft colour in front
of the shrub border, or in almost
any other situation, it is excellent.
It will thrive in the poorest soil,
but to keep it compact it is advis-
able to cut it back to within a
few inches of the sod each spring.
Beyond that it calls for little
attention,
A White Dahlia for Bedding. — .Although Dahlias
are not favourites with everyone, there is no gain-
saying the fact that they are useful for creating
bright effects in the garden during the waning days
of summer and weU into the autumn, until frost
puts a stop to their display. One of the best white
varieties for filling large beds, or spacious gaps
in the herbaceous border, is Kaiserin .Augusta
Victoria, a fairly old Dahlia that deserves to be
better Imown, It is far from being an exhibitor's
variety, but its erect habit and freedom of flowering
put it in the front rank of those suitable for the
garden. It grows about five feet high, and its
erect double blossoms, borne well above the fohage,
are as good a white as one could desire.
470
THE GARDEN.
[September 26, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspofidents.)
National Rose Society and the War. — In
reference to the donation of 50 guineas made to
Queen Alexandra's Relief Fund, and published in
our last issue, the following letter has been received
by Mr. C. E. Shea, president of the society :
" I have to acknowledge the receipt of your letter
of the gth inst. fonvarding for submission to
Queen Alexandra an open letter to Her Majesty's
address, together with a cheque for 50 guineas, a
contribution from the National Rose Society
towards Queen Alexandra's Relief Tund. Both
letter and cheque, as requested, I submitted to the
Queen, and I write now by Her Majesty's com-
mand to thank you, and through you the Council
of the National Rose Society, very sincerely
for the handsome donation voted by your Council
to be placed at Queen Alexandra's disposal. You
will see from the official receipt which I enclose
flower for sale. I have come across it three 0^
four times in my travels, but it was only
last spring that I had the good fortune to get
some two dozen seedlings from a friend. These
have given a good account of themselves, having
well filled a moderately sized bed, the plants
attaining a height of from 3 feet to 4 feet. (Nichol-
son gives its height as 2 feet.) The spikes have
measured from 6 inches to 15 inches in length.
It is not so deliciously fragrant as the common
Mignonette (Reseda odorata), but it is more beauti-
ful in form, its finely cut foliage adding to its
effectiveness. Set well back in a border of
annuals, it will hold its own against all comers.
The question, liowever. will be. Where can 1
get it ? — Calkdosia.
Magnolia Watsonii in Scotland. — It may
interest many readers of The Garden to learn
that this beautiful and highly fragrant Japanese
Magnolia is flowering in my garden for the second
time this year. The blooms are nearly as large
as they were during the months of June and
lulv. — David R. Williamson.
A BEAUTIFUL COBWEB HOUSELEEK, SEMPERVIVUM LAGGERI, IN A HAMPSHIRE GARDEN.
that Queen Alexandra has sent the cheque for
50 guineas to the Soldiers' and Sailors' Families
Association, an association of which Her Majesty
is president, and is deeply interested in the great
work it is doing. — D. M. Probvn, General,
Comptroher to H.M. Queen Alexandr.i "
Double-Flowered Peacli Fruiting. — In 191 1 I
wrote to you about a double-flowering Peach tree
fruiting, and you answered saying you were not
aware it did fruit, and that if it produced a fruit
again you would like to see one. I herewith
enclose you one. The tree is growing as a
standard in a south-west aspect, and sheltered
by larger trees from the north-west. It has
not fruited since 191 1 till now. — G. Duell,
The Grange Gardens, Kew Road, Kew. [The
fruit sent by our correspondent was of
medium size, fairly well ripened and of moderate
quality. — Ed.]
The White Mignonette (Reseda alba).—
This Mignonette is classed as a biennial, but
succeeds admirably treated as a half-hardy annual.
I wonder how it is that, so far as I can see, none
of our seedsmen offer seed of this attractive
Disease in Early Planted Potatoes. — In a
district in Hampshire noted for high-class Potato
culture (Magnum Bonuin, Clarke's Maincrop
Kidney and other varieties being raised in it)
many early plantations have very badly diseased
tops at the present time (first week in September),
whereas the late-planted ones are in a healthy
condition. Of course, this may be regarded
as quite a natural result, but the contrast is too
great, as the time lapsing between the two plantings
does not correspond. The tubers are not affected
so far. The tops commenced to shrivel up early
in. August, and have in ntany places quite dis-
appeared from general view. The haulm of the
early planted Potatoes was weak from the first,
whereas that of the late planted ones was strong
and remains so. — B.
Sempervivum Laggeri. — Your correspondent's
note on the Cobweb Houseleek or Sempervivum
arachnoideuin in your issue of August 29 last,
page 437, is interesting, and I enclose a photo-
graph of another member of the same family
identical in all its parts, except that the whole
plant is reddish in colour instead of green, and
here with me the cobweb characteristic is even
more marked, being denser in character and more
hoary looking, although the stronger contrast
against the red rosette instead of a green one
may partially, although not, I think, wholly,
account for it. The hummocky nature of the
growth is well shown in the photograph. It
is growing on a dwarf pillar or pier that finishes
off, with others of like character, a small piece
of paved garden from the lawn. The photograph
shows a somewhat later stage of growth than
Mr. Malby's, as it is in full flower, although most
of the flowers are outside the plate. The pier is
hollow, and is built round solid loam, so the
plant on top has plenty of root-room. It has only
been planted two years, and is increasing rapidly.
The pieces at the sides were, when planted, single
rosettes. Where not fully exposed to the sun's
rays, the spider web is only a dot in the
centre, and does not cover the whole rosette,
thus confirmmg Mr. Malby. One point I would
like to raise. My plants of S. arachnoideuin
are quite green, and I have never noticed the
red tinge he refers to as being so conspicuous
in their native habitats. Is it possible that the
Sempervivum he saw was the variety Laggeri,
sometimes called rubrum ? — Herbert E.
MoLYNEUx, Southampton.
The Pyracantha and Birds.— On page 411
of The Garden for August 15 last was an interest-
ing note on " The Pyracantha as a Flowering
Shrub," in which the writer refers principally
to its adaptability for cultivation in the open
garden on account of its attractiveness over a
lengthened period of the season, both of flowering
and fruiting. As a wall plant I can fully endorse
the lengthened period of its attraction, and par-
ticularly in a season like that now drawing to a
close, which seems to have been specially favour-
able in this part of the country for Thorns in general,
the roadside hedges being thickly covered with
dense masses of red berries of the common Haw-
thorn, providing, one would think, sufiicient
food for any number of wild birds for some time
to come ; but they seem to have a distinct prefer-
ence for the Pyracantha. A large part of the
front of my house is covered with a plant of
Crataegus Pyracantha Laelandii, which I planted
when it was about two feet high in 1901. It
is now about twenty feet or thirty feet high and
several feet wide. It would have grown much
higher, but it has been kept down from
encroaching on the guttering which runs round
the house. In the early summer the thick
masses of white flowers almost entirely covered
the foliage from a distance of about twelve
feet' from the ground to the very top, and
these have been succeeded by an equally
thick crop of the orange ired berries, which are
now becoming rapidly thimied by hosts of
birds, who begin their depredations very early
in the morning and continue all day ; so that
though the crop is a heavy one, the beauty of
the plant will soon be a thing of the past. I
tried netting the plant one summer, but the birds
got so entangled in the net^ as to cause much
damage to the plant. At the back of the house
is a good-sized standard Hawthorn tree which
also carries every year a good crop of berries ;
but though this has its share of feathered visitors,
they are not so numerous as they are to the
Cratajgus. This would appear to be due to the
bright colour and the crowded bunches giving
much less trouble than those of the Hawthorn. —
John R. Jackson, South Devon.
September 26, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
471
Sweet Peas Diseased. — I see in The Garden
required
owing to the restricted root-run. Feeding in this case
wiU be necessary long before the flowers appear. Propa-
gation is always elfeeted by means of suckers detached
from old plants. The way to succeed with Banana
culture is to make sure that the plants shall not receive
I
.'1^ ^gfey-
GARDEN.
-z^>=
<^'^^>&
No. 2237.— Vol. LXXVIII.
October 3, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Our Special Rose Number. — Following our
usual custom, we shall devote a considerable
portion of our next issue to special articles on
Roses. These will be written by some of the
best authorities on our national flower, and will,
we feel sure, prove of considerable interest and
usefulness to our readers. The planting season
for Roses will shortly be with us, and many will
undoubtedly wish to add to their existing collec-
tions, and so do all they can to keep their gardens
Result of Our Garden Planning Competi-
tion.— The work of judging the numerous plans
sent in for our competition for planning and plant-
ing the little garden is now proceeding, and at
the time of going to press is nearing completion.
The task has been a very heavy one, but, at the
same time, one of considerable interest. We
hope to publish the results, with the first-prize
designs, in our issue for October 17, when the
ideas set forth will be available for adoption
thoroughly up to date. In addition to a number by those who are contemplating the laying out
of charming half-tone illustra-
tions, a coloured plate of three
superb garden Roses will be
included. The price will be one
penny, as usual.
Rose Amateur Teyssier. —
Although sent out so long ago
as 1900, it is seldom that one
finds this excellent and charming
Rose growing in gardens. The
reason for this is difficult to
imderstand. On the recom-
mendation of a rosarian friend,
a few years ago we planted
some bushes, and few other
sorts have been so consistently
good. It is moderately vigorous,
flowers freely from late June
onwards and is rarely attacked
by mildew. The blooms are
creamy white, with deep yellow
centres, and owing to their ex-
quisite shape are excellent for
button-holes. The illustration
on this page represents a single
spray of blooms cut the third
week in September. Those who
appreciate Roses of this colour
should certainly plant Amateur
Teyssier.
Britisli Fruit Show Aban-
doned.— Just as our last issue
had gone to press we received
a notice from the Royal Hor-
ticultural Society stating that the British Fruit
Show, arranged to be held on September 29
and 30, had been abandoned. The reason
given for this decision was that the military
authorities had taken over the society's hall, and
that it was impossible to procure another building
large enough and suitable for the purpose. At a
time such as this, when considerable interest is
being taken in all kinds of home-grown produce,
it is regrettable that some temporary arrangement
could not be made, even if the show had to be on
a smaller scale than in past years.
AUTUMN BLOOMS OF ROSE .'AMATEUR TEYSSIER.
of new gardens or the remodelling of existing
ones.
White Rose lor the Autumn. — Those who wish
for a good bed of white Roses for the autumn
should plant Mrs. Herbert Stevens, a Hybrid
Tea variety sent out by Messrs. McGredy and Son
in igri. Although rather small, the flowers are
wonderfully pure, much more so than those of
the better-known Kaiserin Augusta Victoria,
and they also possess the additional merit of being
held more erect on the stems. As this Rose is
only of moderately vigorous habit, it should be
planted more closely than the more robust sorts.
It is one of the daintiest white Roses that we know
for cutting, and the fragrant blooms last in good
condition for some time when placed in water.
A Beautiful Grey and Blue Bed.— One of the
most pleasing flower-beds that we have seen for
a long time is situated at the lower end of the
Broad Walk at Kew, near the lake in front of the
Palm House. This is a circular bed, planted
thicldy with Ageratum Princess Pauline, with
dot plants, aj feet to 3 feet apart, of the grey-
leaved Centaurea candidissima.
The blue flowers of the former
harmonise perfectly with the
grey leaves, and create an
effect that is as pleasing
as it is the acme of good
taste.
, The " Breaking " of Tulips.
A writer in our contemporary
Irish Gardening for September
says that he is very much in-
clined to think that " breaking "
in Tulips is caused by the
presence of lime in the soil.
We take it that he means when
they have been transferred from
a soil without hme to one in
which there is an adequate
quantity. As we believe there
is a great deal of trouble in this
respect in many places, especially
among the Darwins, it would be
of both interest and utility to
many of our readers if some of
those who have suffered in this
way would send us a short note
for pubhcation, saying if they
can trace the "breaking" in
their case to this cause.
Collarette Dahlias for Large
Beds. — Although a good many
exceUent gardeners do not
care for the Collarette Dahlias
— single varieties with a
pronounced collarette or ring of projecting florets
surrounding the central disc — they are exceedingly
showy for bedding purposes, and, owing to their
long, erect stems, the blossoms are also excellent
for cutting. The following varieties, selected
from a large collection a few days ago, are about
the best for both purposes : Maidens, bright
yeUow ; Purity, white ; Louise, crimson, white
collarette ; Ailsa, reddish purple, edged white,
and white collarette ; Holyrood, crimson, edged
yellow, and yellow collarette ; and Gunfleet,
scarlet, and yellow collarette.
480
THE GARDEN.
[October 3, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
(The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
Flowers for Wounded Soldiers. — Everyone
will doubtless fully sympathise with the sentiment
to which expression is given under the above title
by Mr. Faudel-Phillips in the issue of The Garden
for September 19. The appeal to gardeners
generally — who are all, of course, as is rightly
stated, anxious to render some service at this
time — to make contributions in gardening kmd
to hospitals which have been reserved for the
use of our Territorial Forces will probably find
ready response among all sections. To this end,
and in view of the unfortunate possibility of the
necessity for even an increase in the number
of hospitals in different parts for the reception
of our sick and wotmded soldiers before the close
of the war, I would venture a suggestion that
horticultural societies might lend not inappreciable
aid in the direction mentioned by forthwith
commencing arrangements for bulb shows, to
deservedly needs all the support possible at this
time. — B. W. Lewis.
A Useful Vase Flower. — Hunnemannia
fumariaefolia, among its other good qualities, proves
to be a most useful vase flower with us, the flowers
lasting longer in water than anything else in the
hot weather. The plants from which we are now
cutting were potted up from the open ground
last autumn, and have been kept growing away
strongly ever since. They are stiU full of flower
and bud, and look like giving a good supply in a
cool greenhouse imtil late autumn. — F. Herbert
Chapman, Rye.
Tomato Fruits Not Colouring. — In many
districts Tomatoes have not coloured well during
the past summer. Patches of green are to be
seen on many specimens, and, of course, this is n
defect and lowers their quality either for sale or
home consumption. There is an insufficiency of
potash in the soil, and if a small quantity be applied,
and also some sulphate of ammonia, the fruits
will colour splendidly. This treatment will do
some good if carried out this year, but it should be
particularly borne in mind for next year. The
THE NEW ZEALAND FLAX AND NEMESIAS IN MOORAGH PARK,
^ (See page 481.)
RAMSEY, ISLE OF MAN.
be held early in the New Year, the primary object
of which should be a distribution of the resultant
exhibits among hospitals or convalescent homes.
There will, no doubt, be an ample number of
channels, too, to which jmy realised profits might
find their way. Or, of course, the opportunity
obtains for individuals to render similar service
by growing pots of bulbs for distribution. Pots
of most kinds of bulbs will last in bloom for about
three weeks ; hence they make acceptable and
much appreciated gifts to all such institutions
as those to which reference has. been made.
Planted now, they can be had in bloom by Christmas
and onwards, according to variety. Their easy
cultivation, together with their trifling cost,
should make such interesting work popular with
all who have a desire to show some slight reciprocal
feeling towards those who have endured much
on our behalf. A further — and, I submit, not
unimportant — object which would be served by
the practical operation of the foregoing suggestions
would be the desirable one of assisting, in some
little measure, the nursery trade — a trade which
potash should be applied first, then the sulphate of
ammonia. As potash may be scarce next year,
cultivators should bum as much garden rubbish,
hedge trimmings and wood of various kinds
during the autumn and winter, and mix the ashes
with the soil. — G. G.
Ripe Tomato Chutney : Mrs. " Busy Bee's "
Recipe. — From " Anne .Amateur's " manuscript
book : Ingredients — 7lb. ripe Tomatoes, i pint
vinegar, sJlb. sugar, 102. Cloves, loz. Allspice
and loz. Cinnamon (whole spices are best).
IMethod — Scald and peel the Tomatoes, drain them
well. Boil for five minutes the vinegar, sugar
and spices (tied in a mushn bag) ; then put in
the Tomatoes and boil for half an hour. Keep
in a stone jar, covered tightly.
Preserved Quinces : A Kentish Farmhouse
Recipe. — Ingredients : Quinces, sugar and water.
Method : Pare and quarter the fruits, boil in enough
water to keep the pieces whole. When they arc
tender, take them out and to each pound of Quinces
add lib. of white sugar. Let them stand with
the sugar on until the next day, when the syrup
will be as hght and clear as amber. Put them in
the pan and let them boil twenty minutes ; they
never get hard. For Quince jelly the water
they were boiled in may be used to make a jelly
of the parings. Add lib. of white sugar to each
pint of juice and boil for half an hoiu". — .\.nne
Amateur.
Brilliant Montbretias. — Our large cultures of
Montbretia novelties give rise to many points of
interest. For instance, the question of the most
brilliant red Montbretias comes to mind. Usually
the palm for the richest colour is awarded to Lord
Nelson, but our observations tend to a different
judgment. Three varieties will be mentioned
in this note as being specially briUiant — Volcano,
Pilot and Victory. The finest of all in colour is
undoubtedly Victory, a pure scarlet of pretty form,
branching habit and exceptional brilliance. The
colour is unrelieved save by the yellow eye. It
is altogether a most glorious colour. Volcano is
larger, a fine notable variety, a brilliant orange
scarlet, with a crimson suffusion near the
centre. It is tall, well branched and of striking
appearance. Pilot is almost equally good, giving
large flowers of a glowing orange scarlet shade.
Save for the orange centre, this variety gives a
pure self colour, very effective, free and good.
AW three will prove worthy of attention wlien
known to the Montbretia-lover. — P. S. Ha-v-ward,
Holland House Gardens, Clacton-on-Sea.
A Little-Known but Useful Climber.— To
anyone requiring a rapid-growing and free-flowering
climbing plant, I can recommend Senecio scandens,
a species of recent introduction from China. It
is not often met with in many gardens. This
has the great advantage of flowering late in the
summer and autumn, and, being a rapid-growing
and profuse-flowering plant, it should prove a
great acquisition to our hardy flowering climbers.
A plant on an eastern aspect began flowering
about the middle of September last year, and was
covered with its small, orange yellow, starrj' flowers
for quite two months. This species should prove
extremely useful for the pergola in autumn,
when many of the summer-flowering climbers
are past and flowers none too plentiful. Probably
the most picturesque position of all for this plant
would be to allow it to ramble through the branches
of any old Apple tree, in the way we too seldom
see the beautiful Polygonum baldschuanicum. —
R. FiNDLAV, The Gardens, Logan, Wigtownshire.
Ceanothuses in Pots. — A note that appeared
early in sprmg concerning the value of Ceanothus
Gloire de Versailles when grown in pots was of
considerable service in directing attention to its
beauty when grown in this way. Though blue
flowers are admired by everyone, they are at no
time too plentiful, especially among shrubs that
flower early in the year. For this reason I favour
the employment of some of the early flowering
kinds for greenhouse decoration, as they can be
had in flower sooner than C. Gloire de Versailles.
Two good kinds for this purpose are C. dentatus
and C. veitchianus, this last being of a particularly
pleasing shade of colour. Even these are not
at all amenable to hard forcing, but need to be
brought on very gradually. They can, however,
be had in flower by the end of April, and at that
time their pretty flowers, which are freely borne,
are much appreciated. As advised in the case
of C. Gloire de Versailles, it is very essential that
after flowermg they are plmiged outside in a
spot fully exposed to sun and air. An occasional
dose of liquid manure is also of great service when
they are making their growth. — H. P.
October 3, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
481
Fasciation in Roses.— In pruning a Rose hedge
of mixed varieties in my garden, wtiich I planted
about twelve years ago, I found that a stout
leading stem of a Crimson Rambler had become
fasciated about three feet from the ground, the
flattened fasciation increasing in width and
becoming more pronounced for another 2 feet
•or more, where it branched off into five apparently
normal healthy stems for another 4 feet or 5 feet.
As the whole stem and its offshoots appear
strong and vigorous, I am leaving it to see
if it will produce any further fasciation next
■season. — J. R. J.
Hardy Fuchsias. — In many parts, and especially
in districts near the sea, hardy Fuchsias form
a charming feature during the summer months,
and often on into the autumn. There are places,
Jiowever, where their merits are not recognised
to the extent they might be, for even if the plants
are cut to the ground during the winter, young
shoots are quickly pushed up in the spring. A
few leaves scattered over the ground will serve
to protect the roots during the winter. The
hardiest of all, and withal one of the very best,
is Riccartonii, which in particularly favourable
districts attains almost the dimensions of a small
tree. If treated as a herbaceous plant — -that is,
cut to the ground each season — -it will attain a
height of 4 feet to 5 feet and flower profusely.
Other good old kinds are coccinea, corallina,
globosa, gracilis and virgata. Some distinct
varieties raised originally by M. Lemoiue of
Nancy are Drame, Elysee, Enfant Prodigue,
Florian and myrtifolia minor. The hardiest
Fuchsia, with white corolla, is Mme. Comellison,
a variety about fifty years old, but still the best
for many purposes. — H. P.
Roses witll Split Blooms. — Your correspondent
■" R. F. C." raises an interesting question as to
the cause of split or divided blooms in Roses,
and suggests there is some definite cause and that
great credit will accrue to the discoverer of it.
He gives us a list of Roses — -W. R. Smith, the
two Cochets, Mrs. Edward Mawley and Charles
Lefebvre. He might have gone through the
whole list of exhibition Roses from Mildred Grant
to Bessie Brown, &c., and included all Roses
that have more than an average number of petals,
and he would still have been correct in his statement
that they seldom give a perfect bloom. So far
•one can agree with him, but when he goes on to
suggest that it is some outside influence at work,
such as frost, wind-bruising or twisting and change
of temperature, then I must part company with
liim. I am inclined to think that there is no
such cause. Take W. R. Smith, for instance.
I suppose 90 per cent, of its flowers " come split,"
as the Rose-lover has it, and the reason of it is
■not frost or any outside interference, but simply
the " nature of the beast." No amount of pro-
tection (under glass if you like), cultivation and
high feeding (this latter, as tending to produce
more petals, is likely to aggravate the trouble)
will alter the fact. Nature cares nothing for
•our artificial standards as to what is perfect.
Her standard, as far as one can form an opinion
•on it, is something very different ; in fact, I
do not think I am going too far or saying what
is incorrect if I state that left to herself she would
never have produced such a monstrosity (to
Tier) as W. R. Smith. The ideal Rose has five
petals and numerous stamens ; the artificial
W. R. Smith has numerous petals (about one
hundred and twenty) and few, if any, fertile stamens.
If this theory is correct and the normal W. R.
Smith is always divided or split, then he who only
wants perfect exhibition blooms should clearly
leave it alone. And yet it is a beautiful Rose,
fine healthy grower, magnificent foliage ; no mildew,
no black spot, no rust ever attacks it ; and as a
standard it makes one of the shapeliest and hand-
somest of trees. In the young state it is a beautiful
bud, ideal for a button-hole. As a hardy Tea
it is undoubtedly one of the best of the family,
and something of the same sort can be said for
all these flowers that " split." It is undoubtedly
true that the fewer the number of petals the
less likelihood there is of this fault occurring
until one reaches the natural Rose, when it is
impossible. So I am afraid, " R. F. C," there
is no remedy ; in fact, if W. R. Smith could be
made never to split, it would not then be W.. R.
Smith, but a different Rose altogether, worthy
to be called after its raiser, lucky man ! — Herbert
E. MOLVNEUX, Southampton.
New Zealand Flax in the Isle of Han.— It
may interest your readers to learn that at the
present time there are twelve large clumps of
New Zealand Flax, Phormium tenax, in full
flower-spike in the Mooragh Park, Ramsey, Isle
of Man, and that about seventy other clumps
of a few years later growth are in fine healthy
condition, and will in the course of a year or two
add very materially to the attractions of these
beautiful pleasure grounds. The history of these
plants and their appearance so far from their
native habitat savours somewhat of the romantic.
In the summer of 1904 the Town Clerk of Ramsey
received by post a package of seed from a resident
in Christchurch, New Zealand. The sender
signed himself " J. J. D.," a native of Ramsey,
who left his home sixty years before. He had
read of the development of the Mooragh Estate
and the formation of the Mooragh park and lake,
and was desirous of contributing something
ornamental that would be imique, and that would
attract and interest visitors to his native town.
The mystery of " J. J. D." was as good as a
Yankee guessing competition, and after the
lapse of two years the problem was solved by
Dr. F. S. Tellet, J.P., who remembered a black-
smith of the name of J. J. Dailey leaving Ramsey
for New Zealand when he was quite a young lad.
In the meantime the Town Clerk had sent out
packages of the seed to about a dozen leading
gardeners in the island ; but the only successful
grower was Mr. Thomas Martin, gardener to
Dr. J. M. Barbour, M.O.H., Ramsey. Mr. Martin
raised a dozen strong plants, and these were
removed to the Mooragh Park, where they imme-
diately took root, and have developed into the
present fine clumps. In October, 1906, the
Town Clerk received a further quantity of Flax
seed from Mr. Dailey, and he thought he would
try if it were possible to grow the seed in the
open without the aid of artificial heat. In this
he was entirely successful, for a handful of the
seed sown in a box in the open produced about
eighty plants, seventy of which were transferred
to the Mooragh Park. He retained about ten
for his own garden, where the soil and situation
were different. In both instances the plants are
growing remarkably well, and it is evident from
these facts that the climate of the Isle of Man
is suitable for the growth of this ornamental
plant. Six of the above plants are carrying
over forty spikes, measuring over ten feet in
height. On August 20 I collected ripe seed
in perfect order, fit for sowing at any time. I
enclose a photograph, which may be of interest
to other readers of your valuable paper. The
plant there is m a large bed of Nemesia Suttonii,
which has been greatly admired all the summer. —
Joseph Milbur.m, Mooragh, Ramsey, Isle of Man.
A KIRKCUDBRIGHTSHIRE
GARDEN.
WHEN staying recently for a few
days at Knockallan, near Castle
Douglas, I had the privilege
of visiting several scenes of
great beauty and horticultural
fascination, which wiU long
abide in the regions of remembrance. Until,
under the guidance of a cultured companion,
I saw for the first time the grounds and gardens
of Mallance, I had no conception that a mansion
with such a charming environment of stately
trees and exquisite flowers existed in the fair
region to which Knockallan belongs. To me, I
confess, it was at once a surprise of the most charm-
ing nature, and a veritable revelation of what
Art can accomplish for the ennobling of Nature.
The day, though tropical in its atmospheric
conditions, was otherwise a near approximation
to perfection, for it was, in the language of the
saintly George Herbert,
" calm and bright,
The bridal of the E.arth and Sky ; "
and the scene was also worthy of the splendid
affluence of sunlight whereby it was revealed.
The extensive flower garden was especially radiant
with its green environment of majestic woods,
amid the coolness of whose shadows it was a kind
of rapture at intervals to rest. For on such a
brilliant day it is quite possible to be, like the
immortal Prince of Denmark, " too much in the
sun." And I sometimes dream that, in this respect,
the flowers we so greatly love and so tenderly and
patiently cultivate are not unlike ourselves ; for
though they seem to rejoice in the bright presence
of the " Gardener of the world " (as Robert Louis
Stevenson called the sun), yet they are never so
beautiful as in the early morning or the hushful
twilight, when they are in partial shade. Seldom
have I seen Begonias, Pelargoniums, or the marvel-
lously coloured Antirrhinums luxuriating in any
gardens in such a perfect light.
The accomplished head-gardener at Mallance
(Mr. Stewart) has everything there in as artistic
and impressive form as it is possible for a lover
of Nature to conceive, and that is saying much.
He was, in his earlier years of probation, he informs
me, with that consummate botanist and arbori-
culturist Sir Herbert Maxwell, and an experience
of this kind means not only exacting industry
and elaboration in every department, but also
intense horticultural conscientiousness.
These grand attributes are everywhere reflected
in the gardens of Mallance, where fruit and
flowers of every description are grown with earnest
attention, and consequently with splendid success.
Never since the memorable days when I used to
visit the king of pomologists, the late Mr. Thomas
Francis Rivers, at his great nurseries in Hertford-
shire have I seen Apples and Pears anywhere
so effectively cultivated under glass. It only
remains to be added to these fragmentary and
inadequate observations that botanical trees
and tropical plants of every impressive description
in these beautiful gardens are grandly grown.
David R. Williamson.
Manse of Kirkmuden, Wigtownshire, N.B.
482
THE GARDEN.
[October 3. 1914.
PRESERVING NUTS FOR
WINTER USE.
THIS season there are abundant crops
of the Nut tribe, such as Walnuts,
Spanish Chestnuts, Filberts and Cob
Nuts. Now that all foodstuffs should
be economically treated, hints on
the best methods of preserving Nuts
will be useful. Too often those with no experience
attempt to preserve these Nuts in the worst
possible place — a dry room — with the Nuts
thinly spread on the floor or shelves. Some will
place the Nuts in a vessel and cover them with
salt, which usually ends in the Nuts being quite
unfit for use.
The best place is outdoors, burying them in
proper receptacles 2 feet imder the surface where
they are in an equable, low temperature secure
from air, and under such circumstances they
Walnuts. — When these fall from the trees
naturally or with an easy shake of the branches,
the husks should be removed and the Nuts dried
in the sun in the open, or under cover. The shells
should be thoroughly cleansed from the fibrous
portions of the husks, which sometimes adhere
to the shells. Some persons wash them, but this
is neither necessary nor wise. Take an ordinan,'
com sack or coarse bag, place the Nuts inside,
and with one person at each end of the sack holding
the comers roll the Nuts briskly backwards and
forwards until they are quite clean ; then
thoroughly dry them, which should not take more
than two or three days to effect. If they are
forcibly dried or exposed too long to the sun or
air, the kernels are apt to shrivel, which means
a loss of bulk, freshness and flavour. Any quantity
up to a bushel can be placed in one vessel, although
rather less might be safer.
Filberts and Cob Nuts should be quite ripe
when gathered and thoroughly dried with the
A YOUNG PLANT OF THE EARLY FLOWERING BROOM, CYTISUS PRECOX.
come out quite plump and full of flavour even 1
six or twelve months afterwards. A low cellar
answers fairly well if the floor is of brick and
inclined to be damp. No matter where they
are stored, it is important that the Nuts be
thoroughly prepared before they are transferred
to their final quarters, and unless they are stored
in a fit condition, success cannot be assured.
The Receptacles, too, in which they are placed
must be of the right kind. Some employ close-
fitting wooden boxes, and with care they answer
the purpose. The best utensil, however, to employ
is an earthenware vessel, glazed inside, with a
tightly fitting lid, or, in other words, an ordinary
bread pannikin. Failing this, a very good substi-
tute can be made with an ordinary flower-pot,
blocking up the hole at the bottom with cement
and having a closely fitting slate lid. Give the
outside of the pot a couple of coats of paint to
eliminate its porosity, and thus prevent the ingress
of moisture to the Nuts.
husks still on, packing them loosely in similar
vessels.
Spanish Chestnuts should have the outer,
spiny husks removed, the Nuts dried and packed
closely in a similar way.
Swanmore, Hants. E. Molyneux.
THE EARLY FLOWERING BROOM.
There are few more beautiful plants in the garden
during the late days of spring than the early
flowering Broom (Cytisus praecox). This hardy
shrub usually opens its creamy white flowers at
the end of April or the first week in May, just when
the last of the trumpet Daffodils are waning and
the Poets have taken up the display. As will be
seen in the accompanying illustration, the blossoms
are produced in great profusion, each slender,
graceful shoot being almost covered. The flowers
last in good condition for about three weeks ; but
even at other seasons the shrub is pleasing to
behold. This Broom is really a hybrid, the result
of crossing C. purgans with C. albus, and plants
can be purchased cheaply. In common with ^
other members of the family, it will thrive in very •■
poor sandy soil ; but this must not be taken as an
indication that it does not appreciate a more
generous diet. In fact, it will do well in almost
any kind of soil that is well drained. Early
November is a good time to plant, or the early
part of March if more convenient ; but the young
plants should be obtained in pots, so as to avoid
excessive disturbance of the roots. H.
ANNUAL FLOWERS TO SOW
IN AUTUMN.
ALTHOUGH many hardy annua! flowers
are now sown in the autumn, there
is no reason why, imder certain
k conditions, this phase of their culti-
^ vation should not be much more
widely extended. Nature, in her
wisdom, provides for the sowing of nearly all
seeds as soon as they are ripe, and, were the
conditions under which they ripened perfectly
natural, no better course could be adopted. But
gardening is an " art that doth mend Nature," and
many of the flowers, or at least their progenitors,
that we grow in our gardens are natives of far
warmer climes than om:s ; hence it follows that we
must, if we will grow them successfully, save the
seeds until the frost and damp of wmter are past.
On the other hand, there are a number of atmual
flowers which are quite hardy with us, or at least
sufficiently so to enable a large percentage of
seedlings to survive an ordinary winter, and it
is the sowing of such that I would advise in the
autumn. But let no one imagine that all the
" hardy annuals " of the seedsmen's catalogues
can be successfully so\vn at this season. By some
miraculous reading of the English language,
" hardy " means to the seedsmen those kinds of
armuals that may be successfully grown from
seed onwards during late spring and summer
without the aid of glass. Thus we find the Indian
Cress, or so-called Nasturtium, one of the most
tender annuals that we know of, classed as
" hardy." Strange as it may seem, this word
of warning is necessary, as I have on more than
one occasion foimd seeds of such tender plants,
being sown in the autumn.
Even though we select our kinds aright, the
vagaries of our English climate, as well as the
vast difference in the character of the soil, must
be fully borne in mind, and both on occasion
can prove exceedingly troublesome. Over our
climate we have no control ; consequently in
sowing annual flowers in autumn, which means
that the seedlings will have to stand out all the
winter, we are taking a sporting chance, and one
that usually gives us a fair return for our outlay
of time and expenditure, which, by the way
is usually insignificant. With soil, however
it is different. Here we know what we have to
contend with, and it would be fallacious in the
extreme to sow annuals now in soil that is mainly
composed of clay. Hardy though the plants
might be, they would surely succumb to the cold
moisture that would ever be present in the soil
in too great a quantity during the short, dark
days of our long winter months. This, again,
is where the gardener's art mends Nature. Instead
of following her plan of sowing seeds as soon as
October 3, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
483
they are ripe, he keeps them safe and dry until
the more genial days of spring, when his clay
soil has become warmed by the sun and in a
more porous and better condition for plant life.
But there are a multitude of gardens the soil
of which is composed largely of sand, or a thin
layer of soil over chalk, and here it is that the
hardy annuals which I will name presently
may be sown in September or the first
week in October. Indeed, the superiority
of autumn - sown plants over those sown
early in April in these gardens is astonish-
ing. Not only do they commence to flower
much earlier, but they are more sturdy and
give far better results over a much longer
period. The soil may be dug well and made
moderately firm previous to
sowing, and the surface ought
to be raked down so as to
get a fine tilth, as the seeds of
most flowers are small. The
one evil that must, however, be
guarded against is deep sowing.
This is where Nature teaches us
a lesson. In very few instances
indeed does she provide for
deep sowing, the majority of
seeds having to be content with
what little soil may be washed
on to them by rain or blown
over them by wind. Many of
the failures that are attributed
to other causes are really due
to too deep sowing. For most
kinds of annual seeds the merest
covering of fine soil is sufficient,
and even for Sweet Peas an
inch is enough at this season.
The necessity for thin sowing
and early thinning of the seed-
lings cannot be too strongly
emphasised. It is most important
in the spring, but doubly so at
this season, because the young
plants have subsequently to with-
stand the cold of winter, and
it is imperative that they be as
sturdy and robust as possible.
The sowing of Sweet Peas in
autumn is now very largely
adopted in gardens where the
soil is not heavy clay, and it
is an annual that invariably
gives the best results from such
sowings. But it is a flower
by itself, a queen among annuals,
and its cultivation is so well
understood and so different from
that required by ordinary aiuiuals that there
is no need to go into details here. Other
annuals that may be sown during the next few
days are Godetias and Clarkias, Nemophila
insignis — if cats are not plentiful — Silene pendula,
Candytuft, Bartonia aurea, Virginian Stock,
Cornflowers, Shirley Poppies, Eschscholtzias, Lim-
nanthcs Douglasii, CoUomia coccinea, Larkspurs,
annual Chrysanthemums, lonopsidium acaule and
Erysimum.
There are doubtless several others that
would survive the winter in many gardens,
and the wise gardener will ever be experimenting
in this direction. This finding out for one's
self what is best for any special garden or
locality is one of the greatest joys experienced
in the cultivation of flowers. S. X.
CLIMBING ROSES WITH
LARGE FLOWERS.
4 LTI
A
LTHOUGH the Rambler Roses of Dorothy
Perkins and American Pillar types
are very beautiful and have their
use in the garden, there are many
owners who naturally desire others
which have large specimen blooms
suitable for cutting. The list of such kinds is
not nearly so limited as one might at first imagine.
One of the strongest growing is Conrad F. Meyer,
a sweet-scented Hybrid Rugosa Rose with pale
pink flowers. Other good varieties are Bouquet
d'Or, an improved Gloire de Dijon ; Ards Rover,
arches, the fronts of garden houses, pillars or
rustic poles. In many instances the flowers are
quite equal to those of the dwarfer forms, par-
ticularly if disbudding is resorted to when the
flower-buds are small. G. W.
TULIPS IN BEDS.
1
ASTER VIMINEUS LOVELY, A NEW DWARF MICHAELMAS DAISY
WITH LILAC-PINK FLOWERS. {See page 486.)
crimson ; Florence Haswell Veitch, brilliant
scarlet crimson, sweetly scented, but not quite
so strong growing as some ; Longworth Rambler,
cherry red ; Billiard et Barre, yellow ; Mme.
Alfred Carrifere, white, very fragrant ; Dr. Rouges,
red, shaded orange, petals curiously twisted ;
Lady Waterlow, though often used for bedding,
will make growths 10 feet long ; and Johanna
Sebus, reddish blush, very fragrant. In addition
to these, there are the climbing and rambling
forms of such good, large-flowered Roses as Mrs.
W. J. Grant, Liberty, Frau Karl Druschki, Lady
Ashtown, La France, Caroline Testout, Kaiserin
Augusta Victoria, Captain Christy and Papa
Gontier. Although, as a rule, these do not ramble
quite so freely as Longworth Rambler and Conrad
F. Meyer, they are admirably adapted for covering
T is an obvious truism to state that Tulips
may be planted in beds, either by them-
selves or in combination with other
plants. " You pays your money and
you takes your choice." Being neither a
thought reader nor a prophet, I am unable
to say what that choice will be, for a grand mass
of one colour, say, of Couleur
Cardinal or Famcombe Sanders,
is every bit as beautiful as a
combination consisting of a
groundwork of Alyssum saxatilis
with dot plants of some dark
late Tulip like Fra Angelico or
Zanzibar. At one time I must
candidly confess that I had
decided leanings to the all one
colour and one variety style ;
now I am much more like the
old lady of Oxford and Cambridge
Boat Race fame who used
religiously to deck her stall every
year with both light and dark
blue, and who in consequence
had to undergo a certain amount
of chaff. The famous dead-heat
year came and the laugh was on
the other side. " Right at last !
Right at last 1 Ha ha I " So I
must write of both, for the two
have run a dead - heat, and I
want to be right at last. First,
then, about the " all Tulips "
beds. There are a few kinds,
both in the earlies and in the
May flowerers, that seem to
s*and out from the others as
being peculiarly suited for
massing.
Among these are the following :
Early single — Prince of Austria,
orange red ; Cou'eur Cardinal,
dark rich crimson ; Vermilion
Brilliant, bright scarlet ;
Keizerskroon, red, edged yellow ;
Scarlet Mammoth, midseason red
of dazzling brightness ; and En-
chantress, ruby crimson edged
pale buff. Early double —
Schoonoord, pure white ; Murillo, blush white ;
Vuurbaak, red. Darwin and Cottage — I
limit myself to the dwarfer - growmg kinds,
as it is only in very large beds that the
tallest ones look well : Millet, deep rich crimson ;
Clara Butt, rosy pink ; Inglescombe Yellow,
soft yellow ; Therfae Schwartz, lavender and
mauve ; Pygmalion, reddish violet ; Corydon,
silvery grey ; Loveliness, soft rosy pink ; Rev.
H. H. D'ombrain, biUliant geranium red ; Car-
nation, pointed pink and white ; Marksman,
brilliant scarlet ; and Pompadour, long bloom,
glowing crimson. Another way in which beds
of all Tulips may be filled is by mixtures, but
miless the space is a fairly large one, they do not
show to advantage. The best way to manage
smaller beds is by using confined assortments,
484
THE GARDEN.
[October 3, 1914.
say, all mauves with just half-a-dozen dark ones,
or all pinks, or all reds. A third way is by associat-
ing different heights of more or less the same
shade. In the French branching Tulip, Mons. S.
Mottet, we have, as it were, the mixing already
done, for a bed of these gives exactly the effect
that I have tried to indicate, and, besides, it is
like Prince of Austria, in that it gives a double
feast of colour, being white at first, but, like a good
meerschaum, colouring with age and becoming
a pretty deep rose.
To keep the balance I now pass on to combi-
nations of Tulips with other plants. In this
connection may I be allowed
to thank Messrs. Dickson and
Robinson of Manchester for their
most instructive exhibit of Tulip
combinations at this year's
Chelsea Show. In my opinion
we want more of this style of
thing. The fjower-loving public
want suggestions upon this very
point. It is not always an easy
thing to fix up really good com-
binations. Colours, habits, times
of flowering, surroundings, have
all to be considered, as well as
the individual taste of the owner
of the garden. I know what
thought my good old friend the
Rector of Acton Bumell, near
Shrewsbury, gives to his spring
bedding, and I know how well
his care repays him. If he
happens to read this article, he
will see how I have dra^vn upon
his store of knowledge in penning
these suggestions, just as Messrs.
Dickson and Robinson will see
some of their Chelsea ideas here
reproduced. One point occurs to
me as worth mentioning before
I begin the lists, and that is
the background against which
the Tulips will be seen when
viewed from a distance. This is
rather different from what I
meant when I wrote above that
the surroundings of the beds
must be considered. By that I
intended to convey the idea of
the more immediate beds, plants,
walls, or house of which the
special one we are going to fill
will be a near neighbour, and
which I supposed to be observed
from close quarters. Both the
near and far view require con-
sideration.
List of Combinations with
Other Plants. — (i) A good dark
blue Forget - me - not, such as
Indigo Queen or Miss Willmott, with Prince of
Austria. (2) Queen Victoria Forget-me-not with
variegated-leaved Yellow Prince. (3) Double
Arabis with Macrospeila. (4) Dr. Mules or some
other dark blue-purple Aubrietia with Picotee
Tulip, and with or without an edging of the small
variegated-leaved Funkia undulata. (5) Alyssum
saxatile with a dark Darwin, such as The Sultan,
Fra Angelico or Jubilee. (6) A reddish purple
Aubrietia such as Whitewell Gem with Erguste
or the striped Dainty Maid. (7) A band or edging
of double white Arabis with any tall Cottage or
Darwin Tulip in the centre. A soft pinky rose
such as Loveliness or a soft rtddy orange such as
Orange King are better than more violent con-
trasts. (8) A good strain of long-spurred Aquilegia,
with tall red Tulips such as gesneriana major
or Isis as dot plants. The Columbine will not
be in flower, but the red popping up from among
the feathery foliage and flower-buds is most
effective. (9) A good Forget-me-not with Bouton
d'Or and an edging of the old original Violetta.
(lo) Funkia Sieboldii (fol. var.) with King Harold
(Darwin). (11) Mixed shades of crimson Poly-
anthus with either Solfatare or Ellen Willmott
Tulips. (12) Maggie Mott Viola with a mixture
(19) Cheap Daffodils like princeps, which can be
cut away after flowering, planted alternately and
fairly closely with late Tulips gives two distinct
displays, and as the boy said when his mother
reproved him for being so wasteful as to eat
butter with his jam, " No, ma, the same bit ol
bread does for both." (20) Wallflowers and tall
late-flowering Tulips. Twenty-firstly and lastly,
for the sermon is getting long, and at a seven or
a multiple of that number seems in this connec-
tion not altogether an appropriate place at which
to stop — for combinations are almost like the
sand on the seashore in number — a broad edge
of Maggie Mott with a central
mass of Frans Hals or Pygmalion
V ' ' Tulips. A Dutch friend of mine
■i always says when anything ver\'
' ■ much takes his fancy, " Fine !
Fine ! " I say the same of this,
■' Fine ! Fine ! " It is the set
piece at the firework exhibition,
and, like it, ends my display of
aerial bedding. Joseph Jacob.
PLANTING IN DRY
WALLS.
w
ANTIRRHINUMS OR SNAPDRAGONS GROWING IN A DRV WALL
of lavender and mauve Tulips, such as La Tristesse,
Erguste and Euterpe, with an odd Turenne or
two, or some other dark variety for contrast.
(r3) Glyceria spectabUis with Clara Butt. (14)
Galega Hartlandii (for greenery, and when the
Tulips are over for flower) with a tall-growing
variety such as Faust, Famcombe Sanders or
Pride of Haarlem. ' (15) Leghorn Bonnet with the
bronze foliage of an Astilbe. (i6) Cerastium
tomentosum with the dark Morales. (17) Orange
and yellow Polyanthus Primroses with Golden
Bronze (Toison d'Or) Tulip. (18) Erysimum
Alliouii with Remembrance or Ronald Gunn.
HERE gardens are
on hilly sites,
giving oppor-
tunities for the
making and
planting of re-
taining walls, nothing is more
satisfactory or encouraging than
the rapidity with which they
become clothed with more or
less permanent vegetation. When
flower borders are planted, however
well and fully, there is some
degree of their appearance till the
plants have become established ;
but the conditions of wall planting
are so favourable — the roots
finding a cool, rambling region
among the stones, the collars
protected from winter cold and
the heads in full air and sunlight
— that they appear to establish
themselves at once and more
effectively. Planted a year and
a half ago, and less in the case of
the biennials, the wall surfaces,
as showii in the illustrations, no\\-
present a fully clothed appear-
ance, and, although the soil is
of a poor, sandy character,
the plants are in full growth and
vigour. Masses of the grey Santo-
lina set off the purple of Catmint
and the white and yellow of the Tree Lupines
just above. In a year or two, when some plants
of Cistus cyprius are grown — a few blooms show
above the second patch of Santolina — the picture
will be still more complete. Snapdragons are
true wall plants, and should be used largely in
the joints of dry walling. Besides those grown
as annuals, it is well to make a second sowing
about midsummer. This gives small plants to
put into the wall joints towards the end of Sep-
tember, or at any time during the month when
there has been a good rain. In many places
they are too tender to survive in the open ground.
October 3, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
485
but the wall joint gives so much shelter and such
a comforting degree of dryness in winter that
the plants do well and are in bloom from the end
of May and all through June, the flowering season
being then taken up by plants made from cuttings
and wintered in frames ; these again being followed
by the spring-sown plants. Foxgloves and
Mulleins are also grand plants in walls where
these are in gardens large enough for them not
to be out of scale. But even in small places
one need not be afraid to plant large things in
walls. Many a planted wall is monotonous
in efJect because its occupants are small things
only. Gertrude Jekyll.
THE CROCUSES OF
AUTUMN AND WINTER.
ALTHOUGH they cannot be compared
with the brilliant yellow, blue and
white Crocuses that blow
I so freely in the early
™ spring months, the species
that naturally flower from
October onwards until the dainty
little C. susianus opens its blossoms
in February are by no means devoid
of interest. Indeed, some of the ,
more showy ones form a delightful
feature of the outdoor garden in
the fast waning days of the year,
and when kissed by the autumn or
winter sun reveal hidden beauties
that surpass the vivid hues of their
spring brethren. For some inexplic-
able reason these autumn and winter
Crocuses are not grown in many
gardens ; indeed, one might safely
say that they are rarely met with
outside the gardens of enthusiastic
hardy plant lovers ; yet they are
by no means difficult to cultivate.
It is true that some of the best
are rather expensive, at least com-
pared with the spring varieties,
but not sufficiently so to account
for the neglect that they suffer
in most gardens. To gain the full
beauty of the autumn and winter
Crocuses, a sunny position, and if
possible one sheltered from boisterous
winds, should be 'chosen. It is only
when the sun meets the flowers that
they open and so display their
beautiful venation of the segments
and the rich colour of stigma and
anthers. Wind, too, often causes
much damage to the blossoms, A DRY
as they are mare fragile than
those of many other plants. Ideal
positions can, however, be found in most
gardens without much difficulty. Where a
narrow border runs alongside the west or south
of the dwelling-house, the Crocuses under notice
will find a happy home ; or it may be that nooks
bearing these aspects are available in the rock
garden or to the front of the shrubbery border ;
any place, in fact, where the corms can be left
undisturbed. Of equal importance to aspect and
shelter is the question of soil. Not that these
Crocuses are over- fastidious, but they resent
"excessive or stagnant moisture. A well-drained
soil that is rather on the sandy side suits them
best, hut any good soil that is not water-logged
can have sand added to it for these flowers,
should it be at all lacking in that sub-
stance. In fact, where the soil is at all
heavy, it is best to place a layer of sand under
and over the corms at planting-time, which
is usually early in August, though July is better
if corms can be obtained then. They may,
however, be successfully planted as late as the
first or second week in September, though so late
a date is not advisable if it can be avoided.
Although it is now too late to plant these
autumn Crocuses, it wiU be of interest to draw
attention to the best, as the earliest will soon
be opening their blossoms. Those named as
winter-flowering sorts can still be successfully
planted, though the earlier the corms are con-
signed to Mother Earth the better.
The depth to plant the corms is a moot point.
1 believe Mr. E. A. Bowles, whom his numerous
friends style the " Crocus King," advocates plant-
ing about three inches deep, and under his clever
But I would advocate keeping each kind by
itself. Thus in the rock garden a whole
nook should be devoted to one, two or three
dozen corms of one species, and the same course
of grouping should be adopted where a border
by the dwelling-house or other building is being
planted.
The following are all good autumn and winter
flowering Crocuses that are not very expensive, and
which are not difficult to grow : Autumn —
asturicus, fale to deep mauve, with violet stripes
at the base ; hyemalis Foxii, white, veined rich
purple, with yellow interior ; longiflorus, one of
the best, with beautiful soft lilac flowers ;
pulchellus, lavender blue, with white anthers ;
Salzmanni, lilac, with violet stripes ; sativus, the
Saffron Crocus, purple lilac, striped violet, with
brilliant orange stigma ; speciosus, the best of all
autumn Crocuses, the bright blue flowers being
particularly showy ; Aitchisonii, a large-flowered
variety of speciosus ; zonatus, lilac, with orange
zone. Winter — biflorus, white, striped violet ;
WALL SUCCESSFULLY PLANTED WITH LUPINES, NEPETA MUSSINII AND OTHER LARGE-
GROWING FLOWERS.
management they do remarkably well. For the
ordinary mortal, however, such a course would
lead to failure with many of the choicest kinds,
and the safest plan I am convinced is to plant as
shallow as possible ; i^ inches of soil on the corms
is ample, and it ought to be in a finely crushed
condition. The arrangement of the corms calls
for some consideration. It must be admitted that
single plants dotted about indiscriminately are
neither effective nor pleasing, and it is to colonies
that we must look for good effects. How large
these colonies shall be will depend upon the space
at disposal and the quantity that is to be grown.
chrysanthus, yellow, variable ; ctruscus, pale
lavender ; Iraperati, a beautiful violet-coloured
Crocus ; Sieberi, pale lavender blue ; and vitellinus,
yellow, with orange scarlet stigma. D. W. S.
LIFTING AND STORING BEET
ROOT.
Beetroot must not be allowed to remain in the
beds to get frozen ; but it is unwise to lift and store
it too soon. All the roots must be so treated that
they will retain their juices. Violent pulling of
the roots fronr the soil must be avoided. When
486
THE GARDEN.
[October 3, 1914-
A SUSSEX TRUG MAKER PREPARING WOOD FOR
THE BASKETS.
this is done the tops are unduly bruised and the
roots are scratched ; thus bleeding occurs and
loss of colour. We prefer to store Beetroot in
sand ; it closes tightly upon the roots and
excludes air ; the sand remains cool and does not
heat, neither does it contaminate the roots. The
latter should be lifted by means of a strong
garden fork, with which the soil should be
removed from the roots. Twist off the tops
3 inches above the crown. If cut, the sap-vessels
are left open and bleeding may be excessive.
Pack the roots in layers in sand in a cool shed ;
have the tops and the crowns just free of the
sand. The heaps may be long and narrow,
tapering to a point from a 3-feet-wide base, or
pyramid-shaped. If severe frosts occur, cover
the heaps with mats or straw. It is a, good plan
to grade the Beetroot — that is, to place the
small ones in one heap, the medium in another,
and the largest by themselves ; then when
required they can be used accordingly.
TRUG BASKETS.
A LL workers are apt to take too much for
i\ granted the tools of their trade,
/ % without which their own handiwork
/— ^ would be difficult, if not impossible.
^ & Yet there is no little romance in their
making, and this is especially true
of the gardener's trug basket. " Trug," no doubt,
stands for trough, and one would have supposed
that these shallow, trough-like wooden baskets —
obviously convenient as they are for garden use —
must have been used from time immemorial.
In fact, however, they were invented by
one Thomas Smith of Hurstmonceaux,
East Sussex, no longer ago than the end
of the eighteenth century, and in that
village and by his descendants most of the
trugs used in all quarters of the world are
still made. No common deftness is
needed for their making, and a man may
turn out six dozen in a week. The
various processes are not split up among
many, in the wearisome way of most
industries, but each worker makes his
baskets complete from start to finish.
The thin, wide strips of wood which are
the main feature of the trug are of
Sallow (or " Sally " as they call it
locally), of which Hurstmonceaux has
long been cleared, and the supplies now
come from East Kent. The splitting of
the logs needs skill, and is done with a
special long-handled axe, which has its
cutting edge at right angles to the haft
instead of parallel with it. The strips
are then shaped with a draw-knife,
the workman sitting on a " dolly,"
which is an ingenious combination of
seat and adjustable vice. The rims
of the baskets, two stiffening keels and
the handles are of narrow strips of Ash,
which are soaked in water to make
them pliable before the parts are nailed
together. The basket is finished by
two strips of wood nailed across the
bottom to serve as legs, but these are
sometimes omitted. No doubt there are
many curious trades like trug-making
which minister to the gardener, all un-
conscious of the sources of his comfort, but there
can be few so localised as that of Hurstmonceaux.
NEW AND RARE PLANTS.
AWARDS OF MERIT.
Heliotrope Mrs. J. W. Lowther.— A very
handsome, free-flowering and heavily trussed
variety, which, with a dwarf and vigorous
habit of growth, should commend itself to
all. It is most powerfully scented. From
Messrs. William Cut-
bush and Sons,
Highgate, N.
Aster Amellus
Arethusa. — Quite a
valuable addition to
the Italian Star-
worts, the warm rose
pink colouring being
of a most welcome
shade. Exhibited by
Messrs. T. S. Ware,
Limited, Feltham.
Aster vimineus
Lovely. — A most
beautiful and graceful
sort, with elegant,
horizontally disposed
sprays arranged in
well-branched pani-
cles. The colour is
lilac pink. (See illus-
tration on page 483.)
Shown by Messrs.
H. J. Jones, Limited,
Lewisham. FINISHED
Salvia Griegii. — The flowers are about the size
of those of S. azureus grandiflora, and coloured a
brilliant scarlet. It is a very profuse flowering
variety of neat habit of growth. It will be
welcomed, too, by those who appreciate fragrant-
leaved plants. Shown by Mr. Amos Perry, Enfield.
Pilostegia viburnoides. — A striking and
somewhat remarkable new shrub from China,
havmg slightly channelled, lanceolate, glossy
green, leathery leaves 4 inches or 5 inches long,
and large terminal clusters of creamy flowers.
The species is quite new to cultivation, and if,
when established, it proves to be an autumn-
flowering subject, it will possess a value of its own.
From the Hon. Vicar\' Gibbs, Elstree, Herts.
Dahlia Lord Kitchener (Cactus). — a very
handsome exhibition variety of rich crimson
scarlet shade. From Mr. Shoesmith, Woking.
Dahlia Neptune (Cactus). — The colour is rosy
cerise, in a large and shapely exhibition variety.
Dahlia W. E. Peters (Cactus).— This is of rich
wine red shade, in a finely incurving and handsome
variety.
Dahlia Melody (Cactus). — A handsome variety
coloured a heavy cream. These three were
exhibited by Messrs. James Stredwick and Sons,
St. Leonards.
Dahlia Lowlield Star. — This is another good
addition to the new race of " Star " or Cosmea-
flowered Dahlias, the rosy colour being of con-
siderable warmth and much decorative merit.
From Messrs. J. Cheal and Sons, Crawley.
Dahlia Barbara Purier (Pompon).— Quite of
model shape, medium size and the purest white.
From Messrs. Keynes, Williams and Co., Salisbury.
The above-mentioned Dahlias were adjudicated
upon by a joint committee of the National Dahlia
Society and the Royal Horticultural Society, and
therefore carry the first-class certificate of the
former and the award of merit of the latter.
We crave the indulgence of our readers and the
exhibitors of the foregoing novelties for the
colour descriptions given. The exhibits were
seen under artificial light in the lower regions of
the Great Central Hall, Westminster, the military
having occupied the hall at Vincent Square ;
hence the colours were not seen to advantage.
All the awards were made on the 22nd ult.
TRUG OR GARDEN BASKETS.
October 3, 1914.J
THE GARDEN.
487
I
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruit Under Glass.
Early Permanent Vines. — If ripe Grapes are
expected in May, it will be necessary to prune
and prepare the Vines with as little delay as
possible, so that the house may be shut up and
the Vines started gently by the first week in
November. In pruning old Vines it is not advis-
able to cut the wood too hard back, but to be
guided by the state of the buds, leaving three
or more eyes when necessary in order to make
certain of a crop. Although the Vines may not
look so neat when treated in this way, one cannot
afford to sacrifice a crop for the sake of appear-
ance. After pruning has been carefully performed,
all loose bark should be removed and the Vines
washed with soft soapy water, but carefully
avoid bruising the buds. If mealy bi\g is present,
the trellis and walls may be carefully washed
with paraffin. When this work is finished, the
surface of the border ought to be lightly pricked
up and the surface soil removed to make room
for a top-dressing of new soil, which may be
mixed with old lime rubble and finely crushed
bones. No water need be applied for the present,
but, when forcing commences, the border should
be examined and, if necessary, a good soaking
of clear soft water applied.
Early Pot Vines. — If very early Grapes are
desired, pot Vines may be forced in preference
to permanent Vines, as they can be subjected to
more heat than it is prudent to apply to Vines
which have taken several years to bring to a fit
state for extra early forcing. These should be
cut to the required length at once and placed in
an exposed position until the time arrives for
forcing.
Melons. — Plants which are swelling their fruits
will require careful attention with regard to
watering and ventilating. Some stimulant may
be applied in the form of artificial manure, lightly
sprinkled over the bed, previous to watering
with clear soft water. Ventilate freely when
the weather permits, and leave a little air on
during the night, with sufficient fire-heat to keep
the temperature at 75°.
Plants Under Glass.
Mignonette. — Another sowing may be made
now in 4-inch pots, which should be well drained.
Rich loam and sifted lime rubble will suit the
purpose well, and should be made tight in the
pots previous to sowing the seeds. Young plants
from previously sown seed may be thinned to four
plants in a 5-inch pot. Place small Bamboo
twigs to keep them ui an upright position, and
grow them quite near the roof glass in a well-
ventilated greenhouse and fully exposed to the
sun.
Cyclamen. — Seeds may now be sown with a
view to producing young plants for flowering
next season. The soil should consist of loam
and leaf-mould in equal parts, and ought to be
mixed with sufficient silver sand to keep it from
becoming sour. Sow the seeds thinly and press
well into the soil. Afterwards cover lightly with
fine soil. Cyclamen plants for winter flowering
are now well rooted, and will benefit by light
top-dressings of artificial manure. Clay's Fertilizer
mixed with fine sifted soil suits them well as a
top-dressing. Very little shading will be neces-
sary now, but the ventilators should be freely
opened when external conditions are favourable.
Calceolarias. — ^Plants in small pots should
now be transferred to their flowering pots. Protect
from sun and keep the pit closed until they become
re-established, after which air should be given
in sufficient quantity to keep them from becoming
drawn. Fumigate the pit as it becomes necessary
for the destruction of insects.
The Flower Garden.
Delphiniums. — In cases where these plants
have become too large and the soil exhausted,
the present is a suitable time to divide them and
make new plantations. Those which flowered
early and were cut down a few weeks ago will
be making numerous young growths and roots,
which will soon take hold of the new soil which
has been prepared for them. In making bold
clumps of Delphiniums, overcrowding should be
avoided, as this is detrimental to the constitution
of the plants.
The Rose Garden.
Climbing Roses. — The present is a suitable
time to remove old flowering stems in order to
make room for young, healthy shoots to flower
next season. A space of 8 inches should be
allowed between strong young shoots, as over-
crowding is almost sure to produce red spider
and other pests during the summer.
The Rock Garden.
Increasing Plants.— The dripping weather
experienced during the last few weeks will have
caused many of the plants which have been cut
over to make fresh growths. In many cases these
new shoots may be used as cuttings, for it is not
too late to increase the stock of young plants which
may be necessary to fill vacancies in the spring.
Aubrietias, Arabis, Dianthi and Phloxes will all
make roots if inserted in small pots of sandy
soil and placed in a close firame or under a
bell-glass. Campanulas may also be increased by
division now. The alpine species have obvious
advantages for all kinds of rock^ gardens, and
are, as a rule, easily cultivated 'and increased
by division or by seeds, as well as by cuttings in
the spring. Keep the rock garden quite free
from weeds by the frequent use of a small hoe
or fork. Cut over any overgrown specimens,
so that they may not interfere with the develop-
ment of choicer subjects.
The Kitchen Garden.
Carrots. — The main crop of Carrots should be
lifted and stored as soon as possible. A cool,
frost-proof shed will suit the purpose well for
roots which are required for use during the winter.
Later sowings may still be allowed to remain in the
open, and the last sowing, which is generally made
here in July, may be left in the ground throughout
the winter, a covering of rough leaf-soil being
applied if sharp frost sets in.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Seakale. — In many districts Seakale will have
completed its growth, and where early forcing has
to be carried out, a number of plants should have
the decaying growth stripped off to allow the
crowns to be thoroughly ripened. On the first
appearance of frost, throw out these roots, and let
them remain on the surface for a time, as crowns
which have been exposed to frost will force more
readily than those that have not. For general
forcing purposes the end of the month will be quite
soon enough to make a start.
Chicory. — A few roots of this useful salad may
now be lifted and prepared for forcing. Cut the
foliage over near the crown, and arrange the roots
in large pots or boxes. These may be placed in a
Mushroom shed or any convenient place where
they can be kept perfectly dark, and where a
moderate heat can be maintained. Very little
water will be required at the outset.
Lettuces.^ Young plants growing outside should
now be carefully lifted and planted in small pits or
cold frames. It is important to remember that
these must have ample ven+ilation at all times,
but not subjected to over-much moisture. If the
lights were tilted up back and front, a constant
circulation could be maintained.
Mustard and Cress. — ^To keep up a constant
supply, all sowings from this date should be
made under glass. For the purpose it is only
necessary to use light and very shallow boxes.
Sowings, of course, should be made to meet the
demands of the establishment.
The Flower Garden.
Paeonies.- — Where, from exhaustion or other
causes, these plants require to be moved, no time
ought to be lost in getting to work, as it should be
remembered that they start into growth quite
early in the spring. If a border is to be devoted
to them, the ground must be deeply trenched.
adding some well-decayed manure as the work
proceeds. The moving of the plants should be
carried out with the utmost care, as there are
perhaps very few plants that resent interference
at the roots more than Paionies.
Delphiniums. — Like the foregoing, where these
have to be moved there is no better time to do this
than the present, although it must be admitted
they are not so impatient in this respect as Paeonies.
Delphiniums are, perhaps, more largely grown
to-day than they were, and with the "many-
fine varieties now to select from, they will amply
repay any little extra care and attention.
Recently I saw some large informal beds planted
by a stream, and the effect was very striking
indeed. The earlier flower-spikes had been cut
over, and in the first week of September thev
were still in bloom.
Begonias. — Tuberous-rooted Begonias should be
lifted before they have been actually cut down by-
frost, and dried off gradually by placing them in
an open shed. Allow them to remain there until
the foliage falls off, when they should be packed
in sand and stored in some frostproof building.
Be careful to keep each variety by itself ; otherwise
great confusion will result in the spring-
V^allflOWers. — As soon as the summer bedding
plants are cleared, these may be planted in beds or
borders, as even planted alone they make quite a
good spring display. A very simple and inexpen-
sive arrangement is to plant Narcissus Poeticus
omatus among some dark-flowered Wallflowers.
This makes a particularly striking spring displav.
Plants Under Glass.
Liliums.—Many of the Liliums, chiefly of the-
Harrisii type, come to hand about this period, and
no time should be lost in having them potted up
on their arrival. A suitable compost for these is
some good loam, leaf-mould and sand. Place the
bulbs well down in the pots to enable them to be
top-dressed later. Plunge them in a frame, and if
the soil was sufficiently moist when potted, no
water should be required until they have made
some growth.
Gladioli. — -The early flowering varieties, sc
useful for pot culture in the North, such as Blushing
Bride, Peach Blossom and Fire King, should now-
be potted up into 5-inch or 6-inch pots, using a
compost of loam, leaf-soil and a little well-rotted
manure. After potting, stand them in a frame
that is frostproof, and apply no water until they
have made a little growth. Dn no account attempt
to force them, which in most cases would end in
failure ; they must be allowed to come on
naturally.
Bouvardias. — Most of these will now be growing
freely and showing the flower-buds. At this stage
they will be greatly benefited by an occasional
application of manure-water. This, of course,
must be given with caution. Be careful not to
put too many stakes to the plants, which would
not only damage the roots, but also render them,
unsightly.
Hardy Fruit.
Gooseberries. — Where the bushes have been
infested with insect pests, they should be sprayed
with one or other of the many insecticides now on
the market. Do this as soon as the leaves have
fallen. Clear away all loose soil and leaves from
round the stem, which is sure to contain hosts of
insects, and give the ground a good dusting of
hot lime ; and no harm will result from dusting
the bushes as well.
Fruit Under Glass.
Peaches. — The foliage on most of the earlier
varieties will now be ripening, but all attempts
at stripping the trees of foliage prematurely should
be avoided. Unfortunately, Peach houses, and
even vineries, have to be utilised for housing
Chrysanthemums and other plants, and, to enable
these to get sufficient light, the trees are very often
shorn of their leaves before they are ripe. Boards
must be placed on the borders to stand pots on,
and on dull and wet days it may be necessary to
turn on a little fire-heat to dry up the moisture.
In such cases the ventilators must be kept open
to prevent, in the first instance, any undue excite-
ment of the Peach buds, and also to prevent
mildew attacking the plants.
John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopetoun Gardens, South Queensferry, N.B.
488
THE GARDEN.
[October 3, 1914.
THE ROCK GARDEN IN LATE
SEPTEMBER.
ALTHOUGH late September is not
/\ exactly the period when one would
/ % expect to find many plants flowering
/ % in the rock garden, it is a time when
•* *- too often this home of alpine and other
dwarf vegetation is quite destitute of
blossom. This bareness could, to some extent,
be overcome were a little forethought exercised at
planting-time, as there are quite a number of
plants which, although perhaps not strictly natives
of mountamous regions, may, nevertheless, be used
in the rock garden, and which will give us flowers
at this late date.
The following list, compiled whUe looking
through the rock garden at Kew a few days ago,
may prove useful to those who desire flowers at
so late a season : Erigeron mucronatus, low and
■spreading, with flowers resembling those of field
Daisy ; Colchicum cilicicum, rosy purple ; C.
speciosum, larger, much the same colour ; Con-
volvulus mauritanicus, trailing, with deep lavender
blue flowers ; Sedum spectabile, rose-coloured
blooms, planted high up on rocks to render it
dwarf ; Centaurea montana, deep blue, i foot high ;
Senecio Saxifraga, low trailing. Campanula-like
habit, with numerous, small, bright yellow, star-
shaped blossoms ; Campanula portenschlagiana,
second display of deep blue flowers ; and
Hypericum olympicum, a trailing St. John's Wort
with slightly glaucous foliage and large, bright
yellow blossoms, the long filaments of which make
a striking central boss.
SOCIETIES.
ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.
The fortnightly meeting of ths society held on Sep-
tember 22 was in the nature of a novelty. Owin" to
the military having commandeered the society's halT at
Vincent Square, the Council at the last moment was
compeUed to make arrangements for the exhibition at
the Great Ontral Hall, Westminster, of which only the
iower regions were available. Amid these new surround-
ings quite a creditable exhibition was brought tcether
and m conjunction with the annual display of ve-etahles
excited much interest. The holding of 'an exhibition
of fruits, flowers and vegetables in a cellar presented
these things in an entirely new light— some, indeed in
ilittlc light at all— and while the conditions did not savour
ot the Ideal, and it was impossible to decide as to the
colours of certam flowers, both Fellows and exhibitors
ahlic owe the Council not a little thanks tor, in the circum-
■stances, pro^'iding an exhibition at all.
Floral CoMjnTTEE.
„ ?l:^^^"' • ^-A ^- ^^^y' ^^1 (chairman), and JHessrs.
C. T^ Drnery E. A. Bowles, J. T. Bcnnctt-Poe, J. Green,
■1^. Efiuthe, J F. McLeod, A. Turner, J. W. Moorman,
-J. Jennings, W. Howe, F. W. Harvey, J. Dickson, H J
-Jones, C. Dixon W Bain, C. E. Pear.^on, W. P. Thomson,
h. li. Jenkins, G. Paul and W. H. Morter.
Jfr. L. R. Eusscll, Richmond, displayed an excellent
table of stove and greenhouse plants, sucli fine-leaved
subjects as Dracainas, Marantas, Caladiums and Crotons
playmg a prominent part. Dracaina Victoria; in well-
lurnished, weU-colourcd examples were very "ood as
were also .Uocasias, Acalypha hispida and others.
.Mr. C. Engelmann, Salfron Waldcn. arranged verv "ood
groups of Perpetual-flowering Carnations Canla Pioneer
^carlet Carola Gorgeous, Circe (a fancy), Snnstar (yellow),'
Marmion and Variegated Carola. M'liite Wonder and
White Enchantress were .ilso shown.
Messrs. H. B. May and Sons, Edmonton, showed a
■miscellaneous group of greenhouse flowering plants and
(erns centred by a well-grown, well-flowered "roup of
Bouvardias, of which Maiden's Blush, Dawler and can-
■didissima were the chief. Princess of Wales and Priory
Beauty were very fine among the blush pink flowered
sorts.
Messrs. W. and J. Brown, Stamford and Pcterborou-h
■displayed excellent Roses, of which Duchess of We!lin"ton
Lady Hilhngdon. Mrs. H. Stevens (white), ha Tosea'
Rayon d Or and General Macarthur were a few These
were set m vases and stands, and with masses of Je.«ie
made a very showy exhibit.
Messrs. B. R. Cant and Sons, Colchester, also showed
an excellent group of Roses, the stands of Irish Elegance
Jiayon d Or. Lady Hillingdon. Gottfried Keller Genera
Jlacarthur, Louise Catherine Breslau, Juhet and Mme
.\bcl Chatenay being very fine. Sunburst, too, was
also of high merit.
Mr. J. B. Riding, Chingfnrd, Essex, filled a table with
an admirable lot of Dahlias, comprising Cactus, Collarette
fancy, single and decorative sorts. Ideal (crimson and
white), V. de Schildt (pink and white). Baron Rothschild
and General de Sonis (scarlet) were among the best of
the Collarette section. Pink Gem, Loveliness and Carrie
were good among decorative sorts. H. Witte is a very
fine pure white.
Miss C. M. Dixon, Edenbridge, showed Michaelmas
Daisies and early flowering Chrysanthemums in variety
Carrie and Perle Chatillonaise among the latter were verv
good. "^
Mr. G. Rcuthe, Kcston, Kent, displayed Jlichaolmas
Daisies, Colchicums, Desfontainea spiriosa, Saxifraga
mandschunensis, Stokesia cvanea. Lobelia Queen
Victoria and Phygelius eapensis.
Messrs. H. J. Jones, Lewisham, showed an excellent lot
of Michaelmas Daisies, of which multiflora (white)
vimmeus (lovely pink), cricoidos Perfection (white) Mrs'
Frank Pcnn (rose), erieoides Delight and vimineus Golden
Rain were the most cliarming.
Mr. Ernest Ballard, Colwall, near .Malvern, showed many
fine seedling .^hchaelmas Daisies, of which Ladv Lloyd
(magenta pink), Edith Goodwin (fine blue) Cloudy Blue
(mauve blue), Nancy Ballard (rose), Jupiter (pale lavender),
Pleiades (double white) and Mira were some of the best
in a really choice lot.
Messrs. J. Carter and Co., Raynes Park, showed a fine
bank of Cactus Dahlias, nicely arranged with sprays of
Asparagus. Pfeony - flowered varieties, ivith Pompon
single and decorative sorts, also added variety and beauty
to this excellent group of plants.
Messrs. W. Wells and Co.. Merstham, showed Antir-
rhinum Nelrose and Carnation Champion in fine con-
dition.
Messrs. Carter Page and Co., London Wall EC
displayed a double table of Dahlias, of which the Cactus
and Collarette sorts were the chief. Leitstein (crimson
and white). Prince John (scarlet and white), Inchcape
(dark maroon and white). Grand Papa Charmet (bright
red and cream) and Negreo (maroon and white) were
among the best.
Messrs. Joseph Cheal and Sons had an excellent exhibit
of cut shrubs -mth Dahlias, the former including Buddleia
amplissima, a great variety of Ceanothus and the white-
flowered Baccharis halimifolia. Tamarix hispida sstivalis
was also very fine.
Mr. W. Wells, jun., Merstham, showed some admirable
groups of Phfoxes, of which Lady Satanella (flerv red)
America (pink), Goliath (reddish scarlet), Arthur " P^anee
(pink and white), Africa (carmine red), Le Mahdi and
-Mme. A. Buchner (white) were all good.
Messrs T. S. Ware, Limited, Feltham, showed Cactus
and other Dahlias, n1th Aster Amellus Arethusa a very
charming plant.
Mr. Amos Perry, Enfleld, displayed Aster AmeUus in
variety, Lihuni Biondii, Liatris pycnostachya, Kniphoflas
ialvia uliginosa (fine blue), Kniphofla Macowanii
Colchicum speeiosum magniflcum (a fine red), Senecio
pulchcr. Salvia Griegii (rich scarlet) and Pcntstemon
isophyllus (rich orange scarlet) in an excellent group.
Mr. J. T. West, Brentwood, showed Dahlias of many
seoaons. Pompons, singles. Cactus. Paiony and Collarette
all in great variety.
Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Enfleld, contributed a nice
lot of Statice imbrieata. Chironia ixifera and some excellent
pots of Nerine Fothergillii, with Ferns and other plants.
FEtriT AND Vegetable Committee.
Present : A. H. Pearson, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs.
Joseph Cheat, W. J. Jelfries, Owen Thomas, F Perkins
W. Bates, H. J, Wright, W. Pope, A. Bullock P d'
Tuckett, A. R. Allan, William Poupart, J. Davies, Jesse
Willard, A. Grubb and E. Beckett.
The most important item before this committee was the
gold modal collection of fruits from Jlr. J. C. Allgrove,
iNIiddle Green, Langley, Slough, and apart from the infrinsic
merits of the fruits, the exhibit was of interest in that it
connects the old with the new. For many years
Mr. Allgrove has managed for Messrs. Veitch the fruit
tree department at Slough, which has now passed into
his hands. Hence, in the future as in the past, there
will be a continuance of those high-class fruits for
which for years Jlessrs. Veitch have' been so famou.s
The exhibit comprised 1.36 dishes. Apjiles, Pears, Plums
Figs, Nuts and ornamental Crab^ being included, a'
feature of the group was a nunibrr uf -1 bet high two year
old trees of the new culinary Apple Rev. W. Wilks. some
of which, lifted from the open and planted in '6-inch
pots, were very attractive. One tree alone carried four
handsome fruits, a veritable load for a plant of such
tender age. The single fruits of the variety in bo.xcs were
of huge size, and in many instances also finely coloured
Needless to say, the whole of the fruits were of
the finest description, and, occupying a full table
length, were a great attraction Of desseii Apples, Cox's
Orange Pippin. American Mother, James Grieve Rival
Wealthy, Ribston Pippin, Charles Ross, Lord Hindhp
and a very fine dish of the new St. Everard were on view,
among many ; while of cooking sorts Nc«'ton Wonder,
Peasgood's Nonsuch, Bramlcy's Seedling, Warner's King
Lane's Prince Albert, Blenheim Orange and Annie
Elizabeth were those which appealed most strongly.
Pears, too, were well represented. Doyenne du Cornice
Souvenir du Congrd;, Durondeau, Marguerite .Marillat[
BeurriS Hardy, Louise Bonne of Jersey, with Pitmaston
Duchess, being the finer of these. Of BeurrC- de .Mortillet
there was a grand dish, one giant fruit turning the scale
at 27oz. Plums were seen in Coe's Violet, Golden
Drop and Grand Duke. While the fruits were of the
rt fSeH ,\^°''\'^^°''ehout, they were also admirably
displayed the exhibit meriting the high award granted"
A capital exhibit of high-class fruits, packed for market
Sufld^nr '"i""' "^ *'"' O'^'-'df"'' Fruit Farm Company.'
«*„„, f, ^'^^ ''''"'' "contained m the bushel Federated
btandard fruit boxes, and averaged 381b. to 421b of
iruits. Some twenty-two boxes were exhibited in four
varieties, Mz., Cox's Orange, .iUington Pippin, Ne«-ton
Wonder and Lane's Prince Allx-rt, a priman- object
Ix-ing that of demonstrating the superiority of British-grown
fruits when carefully graded and rightly packed
e,i,e°f ■«'-'• P'"-'^?T' and Robinson, Manchester,
came a magnificent exhibit of Onion Premier, some eighty
giant bulbs in superb condition being attractively shown
For size, solidity and rotundity it is hardly possible to
conceive anythmg flucr, while the uniform character of
the bulbs suggested that all might have come from a
single mould. Surely no bc-fter eridcnce of high-class
cultnatlon in this prized and valuable article of food
could be desired. .\n interesting item in the exhibit
was a threo-podded bunch of the Chinese Runner Bean
(Vigna sinensis), each of the roundish pods of which exceeded
chara t" ^"^ • '^^"^ "■''"'' °' "" exceedingly flexible
A miscellaneous exhibit of vegetables came from David
me"d°al Dueketts, Essex, and received a silver Banksian
Orchid Committee.
Present : J. Gnrney Fowler, Esq. (chairman). Sir
Harry J. Veitch, and Messrs. J. O'Brien, F. J. Hanburv,
F. Sander, W. Cobb, R. G. Thwaites, J. Charlesworth 1-
Armstrong, W. H. Hatcher, 0. H. Curtis, A. Dye EH
Davidson, S. W. Fiory, Gurney Wilson, W. Wottin 'and
J. Wilson Potter.
In a compact group Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Bush
J?'ll, ^'"■^■; displayed Cattleya hardyana alba, Brasso-
Cattlcya Maromas Laslia crispa, Cattleya gaskolliana alba
O. g. Milady and the richly coloured Laeho-Cattleya lumino=a
.Alcssrs. Charlesworth and Co., Hay ward's Heath had
choice plants of Cattleya labiata Arestor. C. Antiope (deeo
crimson >v-ith sulphur yellow sepals), Habenaria Susiani
(white), Paphinia cristata, Odontioda Brenii (very dark
coioured) and some choice Sophro-Cattleyas, amon"
others. Zygocalyx Charlesworthii was also noted
In the group from Messrs. HassaU and Co., South"ate
^., Cattfeya Loddigesii alba, C. Beatrice and the heavilv
fringed Brasso-Cattleya Maronise were some of the choice'r
things.
Messrs. J. and A. McBcan, Cooksbridge, showed nicely
flowered examples of Cattleya Harrisonii alba, C. Prince
Edward, Odontioda Bradshawia; and Peristeria data
in a compact little lot.
From iMr. H. T. Pitt, Rosslyn, Stamford HiU, came
tattfcyas, Cypripedinms and Odontoglossums -with
examples of Dendrobinm Phalaenopsis in variety
Mr. R. G. Thwaites, Streatham, showed ililtonias
Laelias and Odontiodas in some variety.
Messrs. Sander and Sons, St. Albans, had the white
Cattleya Mulleri, some choice Odontoglossums and
Odontiodas, the pretty white-flowered Oncidium incur\nim
Cypripedium Franconia superba, together with Cattleya
Ins, C. Adula var. Exquisita and C. Maronii. The old and
useful Odontoglossum grande was well shown.
Exhibition of Vegetables.
The annual exhibition of vegetables, held on the 22nd
ult. in conjunction with the fortnightly meeting, must
be considered a distinct success, both from the quality
and quantity of the exhibits. In every class there was
considerable competition, and in not a few instances
keenness also. In Class 1, for the best twelve kinds
distinct, the Hon. Vicary Gibbs, Elstree, Herts (gardener)
Mr. E. Beckett), was in the place of honour with an
admirable group, showing in his masterly style Ailsa Craig
Onion, Sutton's Prizetaker Bean, Tender and True
Parsnip (the roots being clean and fully 3 feet lone)
Sutton's Perfection Tomato, Perfection Brussels Sprouts
and Windsor Castle Potato as his best dishes, the whole
bedded and garnished with Parsley. Mr. T. Jones
Ruabon, was second, ha-ving excellent dishes of Inter-
national Leek and Ailsa Craig Onion in a well-grown lot.
The premier award in this class was flic Sutton Challenge
Cup, value £21, and £10 in money ; second prize, £5.
We believe the challenge cup was a'warded to the second
prize group, since an c.xliibitor may only win the cup
once in three years.
For a collection of nine distinct kinds. Lord North.
Wroxton Abbey, Oxon, took the first prize and silver
cup for a superb collection of Runner Bean Sutton's
Scarlet, Dwarf Gem Brussels Sprouts, Best of All Tomato,
Veitch's Autumn Giant Cauliflower and Sutton's Dover
Castle Potato. Second, the Rev. J. .Mc.Miirdie, Woburn
Park, Weybridgc, who showed excellent Beet, Wordsley
Pride Potato, Autumn Giant Cauliflower, Celery and
Pea .Vutocrat. There were five collections staged.
For a collection of six distinct kinds, the Rev. J. Davies,
Crowleo Vicarage, Worcester, was in the leading place
against three competitors with a coUection bordering
on perfection. His Invincible Carrots were worthy of
the name, clean, large and of the finest description.
Tender and True Parsnips, Lyon Leek, Premier Onion and
Moneymaker Tomato (a grand dish) were other important
dishes in a good all-round lot. Mr. W. Keep. Reading,
was second.
For a collection of twelve distinct varieties of Potatoes,
Mr. A. G. Gentle, gardener to Mrs. E. H. Dcnison, Little
Gaddesden, Berkhamsfod. was first with a magnificent
lot, having Snowball, Royalty, Long Keeping. Goldflndor,
Purple Emperor. ICing Edward VII., Windsor Castle,
.Mr. Bresse. Herd Laddie. Rcid's Seedling and Excelsior.
Mr. G. Thorn, Willesborough, .\shford, was second.
There were four competitors.
■^ «jfey-.
GARDEN.
■\:M^^M-
^=^*;=e?s>^^s
No. 2238.— Vol. LXXVIII.
October 10, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Why we Should Plant Roses.
our usual custom at the commencement of
the Rose planting season, we are devoting this
issue to articles on our national flower. With
the shadow of a great European war hanging
over us, we feel how necessary it is to urge upon
om: readers the desirability of taking an even
greater interest in their gardens than they have
done in the past. There can be no more peace-
ful refuge from the horrible stories inseparably
connected with war than a well-designed garden,
and few flowers are capable of giving so much
real enjoyment over so long a period as the modem
varieties of the Rose. Nurserymen have during
the past year spent large sums in raising stocks
of Roses for planting during this
autumn and winter, and we feel
it our duty at the present moment
to urge upon our readers the
necessity of taking long views.
We are all hoping that the war
may be over before the spring,
and, unless Roses are planted now,
the garden will suffer when Peace
is declared. By freely planting
now our readers will achieve a
three-fold purpose : (i) Relief from
the horrors of the war, (2) an
improved garden when the present
strife is over, and (3) the providing
of work for members of a most
deserving industry.
Digging Vacant Ground. — Now
that the ground is cleared of most
of the summer crops, the plot
should first be cleared of weeds
and rubbish, and, if the soil per-
mits, manure wheeled on and
digging proceeded with. There
are many who object to this
autumn digging, and, where the
soil is of a light nature, there may
be something to be said for their objection.
Where, however, the soil is inclined to be the
least heavy, it is just as well to have it turned up
as early as possible, so that it may be exposed to
the frost. In most well-regulated gardens a cer-
tain amount of trenching is done each year. This
should also be proceeded with at once.
A Pretty Flower-Bed. — Where what used to be
known to all visitors and inhabitants of New
Brighton as " Ham and Egg Terrace," there is
now a nice green lawn which is relieved by some
weU-thought-out beds in summer. One which
was very pleasing this year consisted of small
dwarf standards of a red and white double Fuchsia,
which, an under-gardener told us, was called
Following Eckford, with an undergrowth of a free-flowering
Viola somewhat after the style of Kitty Bell.
The bed is an oblong, and to relieve the flat look
which might be caused if the little standards were
all the same height, three in the central hue were
taller than the others. We did not take any
measurements at the time, but from memory we
would put the majority down as about two and
a-half feet high and the taller ones twelve inches
more.
Rose William Allen Richardson. — Among
those Roses that may fairly be classed as old
varieties, it would be difficult to find one that
is a more general favourite than this Noisette.
Introduced as long ago as 1878, its deep orange
A LARGE STANDARD OF ROSE WILLIAM -ALLEN RICHARDSON
yellow. Tea-scented flowers are still highly appre-
ciated in a great many gardens. It is really a
vigorous climber, but is also excellent for pillars,
pegging down, or growing as a large semi-weeping
standard. Unfortunately, the colour of the
flowers varies considerably, but a large plant
that we have on trellis facing due north produces
blooms of a wonderfully rich hue.
The Great Sea Lavender. — Statice latifolia
and its kindred varieties are among some of
our best autumn-flowering perennials, and their
value for decorative purposes in the fresh and
in the dried state is not sufficiently known.
They are of easy cultivation, thriving in almost
any kind of soil or position, and should therefore
find a place in all gardens, however small. The
annual varieties are very useful, although not to
the extent of S. latifolia. If required for winter
decoration in a dry state, the sprays should be
cut when the flowers are at their best, and hung
upside down in a dry place.
Sweet Lavender. — There seems to be an in-
creased demand for this aromatic plant with its
agreeable fragrance ; indeed, many Lavender
hedges seen lately seemed particularly effective.
To increase the stock a batch of cuttings may now
be inserted in cold frames. Although they appear
to root somewhat slowly, these cuttings will make
nice fl:Owering plants by next season. Rosemary
may be treated in exactly the same way.
A Good Autumn Rose. —
Although the Hybrid Tea Rose
Betty is useless for exhibition
purposes, it is a charming variety
in the garden. This autunan we
have been particularly charmed
with its long, conical blooms, and
at the time of writing (the last
day of September) it is still
giving us sheaves of its delightful
flowers. In colour these are
coppery rose, shaded yellow, and
possess the additional advantage
of being fragrant. Its habit is
vigorous and erect, resembling
Mme. Abel Chatenay in this re-
spect, and it is possible that the
older variety may have been one
of the parents of Betty. So far
as our experience goes, the Rose
under notice is not subject to
mildew or other diseases. It was
raised by Messrs. A. Dickson and
Sons, and sent out in 1905.
The Conservatory in October.
Let the conservatory be kept
as clean and attractive as
possible by the introduction of fresh batches of
plants, such as early flowering Chrysanthemums
grown in small pots for tliis purpose. Salvia
sp'endens in pots is flowering freely m the open,
and should be placed in the conservatory as it
becomes necessary. Plants of Lilium speciosum
which have been grown under cool conditions will
also prove useful at this season. Cannas which
have been grown in pots may be retained in the
conservatory for some time longer. Their foliage
is very ornamental, and if the old flowers are picked
off, the foliage will lend a pleasing effect to the
surroundings. All these plants will benefit by a
little artificial manure, and for this purpose guano
is one of the best.
490
THE GARDEN.
[October io, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
(The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
Clematis Spooneri. — This novelty was intro-
duced by Mr. Wilson, the celebrated Chinese
explorer, from whom we received seeds in 1911.
It is undoubtedly by far the finest of all the early
flowering Clematises, and superior in every way
to any other species that flowers in the spring.
C. Spooneri is a strong-growing species, suitable
for covering a house, rough fence, or other structure.
The plant is perfectly hardy, and after being
planted in a cold, bleak position, flowered well
the following season. It bears a profusion of
manure — sheep, cow, horse, not much chicken —
lib. of charcoal in powdered form, and two
large spoonfuls of Clay's Fertilizer early in the
spring and again when in bloom. It is remark-
able what good effects result from using Clay's
Fertilizer for other small flowers. I may add, in
conclusion, I never let my Roses want for water.
Within view of here is St. Paul's Cathedral, and I
often think how very odd was the advice given to
me when I purchased my first Rose tree. A
gardener said it would be useless to try to grow
Roses in this locality ! — G. R. Button, 4, Worsley
Road, Hampstead Heath.
Mixed Arrangement of Hardy Flowers.—
Now that we are all thinking about arrangements
for another year, I would like to put forward a
A WEEPING STANDARD ROSE GROWING IN A GARDEN AT HAMPSTEAD HEATH.
pure white flowers, which are 2^ inches across,
perfectly round and of great thickness. They
appear in May and last for several weeks. When
better known this species will be a welcome
change from the ordinary spring - flowering
Clematises. — M. Nicholls, The Gardens, St. Clere,
Kemsing, near Seveiwaks, Kent.
Fruits of Double-Flowered Peach.— I was
not aware — nor. I think, are most people — that
the fruit of the double-flowered Peach, Prunus
persica flore pleno, is good to eat. My tree has
never given its attention to fruit at all before,
but this year it had three. They were nearly as
large as, say, a Waterloo, and though not luscious
or highly flavoured, they were quite good enough
for dessert on Michaelmas Day. Can anyone
tell me whether the bright green Pippin-like
fruit of Pyrus japonica is edible ? Mr. Weathers
says not ; but has anyone tried ? — G. E. Jeans,
Shorwell Vicarage, Isle of Wight. [The fruits
of Pyrus japonica are not fit to eat in a raw
state. They make excellent jelly, though some
object to the flavour, and one or two may be
added to Apple tarts if desired. They are certainly
wholesome. — Ed.]
A Good Weeping Standard Rose.— The head
of the Rose illustrated on this page measures
9 feet across and the plant is 8 feet high.
It was purchased from Messrs. Cutbush and
Sons of Highgate, and has been brought to
its present condition by following instructions
given in The Garden. Its food consists of
plea for mi-Ked flowers. For a long time we have
been massing and grouping ad nauseam, and it
would be a change to have a few examples of a
less severe colour style. I had several during the
past season, and they have proved quite satis-
factory. Especially valuable, I am stu-e, would
this style be for isolated beds or small borders,
and for small gardens where variety is very impor-
tant. All kinds of flowers, annuals, pereimials,
hardy and tender, may be used. One little bed
which has been extremely pretty was planted with
tuberous Begonias, yellow and salmon pmk in
equal numbers, with clear blue Lobelia intermixed
and a narrow band of variegated Ice Piant
round all. This would have been still prettier
with a few Snapdragons of a proper colour
intermixed. Another scheme was composed of a
mixture of Dactylis elegantissima, Veronica Ander-
sonii variegata, red Begonias and Nepeta Mussinii
kept regularly reduced to proper proportions, with
Lobelia and variegated Authemis as a border.
The effect of this was very pleasing, the Begonia
giving it the touch that saved it from insipidity.
A long border partially grouped with such thmgs
as Gazania, Heliotrope, Lobel's Catchfly, double
Godetia Schaminii, &c., had runnmg through
them single pink and mauve Asters, tall yellow
SnapdragiMis, standard red Fuchsias and Veronica
Andersonii. I liave adopted, the same principle
to some extent in mixed borders, such plants as
Francoa, Gilia coronopifo'.ia. Gladioli, Antir-
rlu'nums. Liliunis, Montbretias, Lobelias of
the cardinalis type. Sweet Williams, Celsias,
Phloxes and Japanese Anemones, with a lot of
dwarfer-growing material, being suitable. Quite a
number of plants having flowers of the same shade
may be associated, with the best results, the point
aimed at being dissimilarity of form rather than
of colour. — R. P. Brotherston.
When to > Plant Tulips.— I fully agree with
Mr. John Dunn that Darwin and other late-
flowering Tulips should be planted in Sep-
tember. Our practice here at Lowdham is
to begin planting late Tulips as soon as
the Daffodils are all in, which is generally about
the first week in September. I have never seen
any ill results from early planting, but, on the
other hand, have often noticed that the late-
planted bulbs were inferior to the early planted
ones, both as regards foliage and size of blooms.
I very much doubt if " fire " is caused by early
planting, or, rather, that early planted bulbs are
more subject to it than those put in later. " Fire "
is, I think, just a matter of climatic conditions.
With us it always seems to follow sharp frosts
or hail, followed by rain. The frost or hail alone
will not do the damage, but, when followed by
warm rain and close weather, " fire" often spreads
very rapidly and does much damage. May-
flowering Tulips nearly all start to grow in the
dry state sooner than do the bedduig varieties,
which looks as if they needed planting earlier.
Then, again, the soil is in so much better con-
dition in September than it is in November.
In the case of a strong, retentive soil such as we
have here, it is often impossible to plant bulbs
as they should be planted when the work is
deferred until November. One of the largest
of the Dutch growers told me some years ago that
he always planted his Darwins before his bedding
varieties. This did not influence me, for I had,
previously planted early, but it was a comfort
to know that I was backed in my opinion by a
good man. It is quite possible that bedding
Tulips might with advantage be planted earlier
than they generally are, but every gardener
knows the difficulty of getting his beds and
borders ready for them. At the present time
many beds and borders are as gay as ever they
were in July or August ; and who could have the
heart to destroy the present display for the sake
of a possible improvement in the Tulips next
spring ? — J. Duncan Pearson, The Nurseries,
Lowdham, Notts.
The letter of "Observer (We>bridge)"
on this subject in The Garden of September 26,
page 471, reminds me of an unusual experience
I had in Tulip culture a good many years ago.
The stock had all been plaitted — so I thought —
during October, or November. To my conster-
nation, however, when sorting out the newly
arrived seeds early the following February, 1
came upon a parcel of early Tulip Keizerskroon,
or, as I now prefer to designate it, Grand Duke.
I decided, to give them a chance, and planted
them alongside another batch of the same variety
which had been planted for cuttmg purposes,
and c'.osely watched their development. They
appeared above the ground about a week later
than the earlier-planted batch, and the blooms
opened correspondingly late, but beyond this
there was no visible difference between the two
'ots. I only record this experience to show that
one may take considerable liberties with the
Tulip. — Charles Comfort. [It would be in-
teresting to know how the late pUnted bulbs
behaved the following year. — Ed.]
October io, 1914-]
THE GARDEN.
491
PREPARING LAND FOR
NEW ROSE BEDS.
M
ANY readers who have followed our
advice in past years and have
thoroughly prepared the soil of
their gardens before planting Roses
have been loud in their praises
of the hints thus afforded ; but
as The Garden is constantly enlisting new readers,
it has been thought advisable to repeat such
information as will be helpful just now when,
as we hope, many are contemplating new plantings
of our national flower. The delightful freedom
of flowering of our modern Roses when planted
in well-prepared soil gives to them undoubted
pre-eminence among the denizens of our gardens.
We may rightly value the thousand-and-one
other subjects, but where can we obtain such a
constant blooming from the end of May until
the frosts of November excepting from the lovely
Hybrid Tea, Tea, Monthly and Polyantha Roses ?
As I have already hinted, to keep up this con-
tinuity of blooming the plants must be kept
ever growing. I have seen beds of Tea Roses
that after their first blow in June have been
in an almost stationary condition owing to the
want of proper preparation of the soil. If there
is a good depth for the roots of the Roses to
obtain fresh food, their very natural propensity
to produce new shoots will be considerably assisted.
Therefore I would urge upon all readers who
contemplate planting Roses this autumn to start
as early as possible and trench the soil.
Unsuitable Soil. — It is of little assistance to
tell readers what soil is best for Roses, for as a
rule they have to make the best of what is avail-
able. Many possess the idea that Roses must
have clay, but while granting that clay is desir-
able, it is not indispensable. To anyone possessing
a light soil that is inclined to be sandy, with a
gravel subsoil, I would say, see that the Roses
have a depth of 3 feet of the best soil available,
removing the gravel if necessary to secure this.
Into the lower 2 feet incorporate plenty of cow
and pig manure. This is worth some amomit
of trouble to procure, and is far better than strawy
stable manure that one must too frequently
have resort to. If it is practicable to import a
cartload or two of heavier soil, do so by all means.
Heavy Soil.— On the other hand, those possess-
ing a heavy subsoil of clay should take care that
this is well broken up by adding burnt earth,
which may often be procured from a brickfield,
or some road grit, other than from tarred roads,
or, failing this, some agricultural chalk. There
must be no water-logged soil if our Roses are
to do well, but, so long as water will pass away
freely, the subsoil may be of a very heavy nature,
and the Roses revel in it. I have the true Tea
Roses, such as Mrs. Myles Kennedy and Lady
Roberts, growing in soil the lower stratum of
which would make good bricks, and all that I
have added has been burnt earth and some pond
mud. Ordinary town ashes are a good material
to improve a heavy subsoil, but we may make
our own burnt earth by means of a sack or two
of coal dust, some faggots and some clay soil
to burn.
Trenching the Beds or Borders is carried
out as follows : Mark out a section of 3 feet in
width at one end of the bed. Remove the top
12 inches of soil to where the work will finish.
Now thoroughly break up the next 18 inches or
24 inches of soil and incorporate the ingredients
named. I also advise giving 6oz. of basic slag
to a square yard. Having done this, start another
section and dig the top foot of soil on to section
No. I. If it is turf being dealt with, a thin layer
of the grass should be skimmed off and burnt,
or else put into the bottom of the trench with
the grass downwards. If
Isolated Positions are to be planted with
one or more Roses, these also should be prepared
on the same lines, and for ramblers on arches
and pillars or climbers against walls or fences
I would advise holes being dug 3 feet wide each
way and the same in depth. I once knew a
gardener who had a millionaire employer. He
thought he would go one better than other people,
and so for every pillar Rose he planted he had a
cartload of new compost put into big holes. But
what a grand result followed ! I was astounded
to find the plants at the top of lo-feet to 12-feet
Larch poles in a very short time, certainly not
more than two years. They were not only at
the top, because this can be accomplished in one
ROSES THAT LAST WELL.
IT is natural that the national flower should
be the most popular of all the many flowers
largely grown in this country, for the
same varieties that are grown massed
in beds in the large Rose gardens of the
wealthy may also be grown in the mixed
beds of the suburban garden or the plot of ground
cultivated by the cottager. To the extraordinary
development and improvement in the habit and
colour of the Rose must be given much of the
credit for its popularity ; but there are yet other
achievements to be attained, and the keen lover
of the Rose is on the look-out for them and welcomes
them with open arms, quickly making room for
them in his already well-filled garden ; and just
as the single Roses were welcomed yesterday,
so to-day and to-morrow the Roses which last
both on the plant and in a cut state take the
premier position. The Roses of gorgeous colours
are, alas ! too often those which one must be
an early riser to see in all their beauty, for the
THE BOWL OF ROSE DOLLY VARDEN SHOWN BY MESSRS. GEORGE PAUL AND SONS
AT THE NATIONAL ROSE SOCIETY'S SHOW LAST JULY, WHEN IT RECEIVED AN
AWARD OF MERIT. IT IS A HYBRID RUGOSA, AND THE SEMI-DOUBLE FLOWERS ARE
GLOWING APRICOT SALMON PINK IN COLOUR.
" thin " Roses so lovely in the bud are too soon
full blown and too quickly gone. The long-
lasting Roses are comparatively few in number,
but they embrace practically all colours and
shades, and afford a wealth of choice even to the
most discriminate of choosers.
Foremost in the reds one must place ChSteau
I de Clos Vougeot, darkest of all Roses, and a treat
in store for those who have not gro^vn it. Of
I rather horizontal growth, it should be pruned to
an eye pointing upwards and inwards to correct
'this peculiar weakness. It will hang for days
year, but they had thickened out so wonderfully.
By taking these precautions and seeing to it that
the land is prepared about three weeks before
planting, success is assured to the veriest tyro,
providing always good soimd, well-rooted plants
are set out. I would also advise a stock of bone-
flour to be in readiness, so that each Rose may
receive a handful at the time of planting ; but
see to it when planting that the manure is kept
away from the roots. The bone-flour is scattered
on the soil when the roots are covered and just
before the final layer is added. W. Easlea.
492
THE GARDEN.
[October io. igi4.
on the plant, and revels in the hottest sun. There
were few visitors to the shows this summer who
did not notice how George Dickson lasted, even
on the hottest days. Leslie Holland, Lieutenant
Chaure, with Laurent Carle, are also good keepers ;
so, too, are the older but fine Roses Hugh Dickson
and General Macarthur. Mme. Abel Chatenay
revives when placed in water, even after it has
wilted. Willowmere, Mme. Segond Weber, Lady
Alice Stanley, Mrs. Alford, Mrs. John Laing,
Mme. Maurice de Luze and Jonkheer J. L. Mock
are prominent among salmons and pinks as Roses
with thick, leathery, long-lasting petals. In
pale pinks there are Prince de Bulgarie and its
improvement, Mme. Rostand ; Ophelia and
Pharisaer. It seems only the other day that
good yellow Roses were scarce ; indeed, the
ideal vellow Hvbrid Tea did not exist. Thanks
Goodwin, and Louise C. Breslau, which is similar
but of a deeper apricot shade ; also M. Paul LM6
and its new sport Climbing Paul Lede.
Among new Roses, the variety which has im-
pressed me as a lasting Rose to an unusual degree
is Mrs. Charles Russell, an American introduction.
A Rose which so well withstands the sun of the
United States may be expected to fall into the
category which we have under consideration.
The way this variety remained fresh all through
the terrific heat which prevailed at the time of
the Holland House Show was quite instructive.
Flowers which were cut on the Monday lasted
until the close of the show on Thursday evening.
This Rose is of a pretty, non-clashing shade of old
rose pink, has a good perfume, and is of vigorous,
good habit. Altogether the study of Roses is
perpetually interesting, but not least instructive
A BOWL OF ROSE CLIMBING SUNBURST, A GOOD "LASTING VARIETY.
to Rose raisers, the position is now quite other-
wise, and among many fine yellows Sunburst
stands out as the best Rose to last in this or any
other colour. The first crop of flowers of this
variety come pale, almost white, but I have
known blooms used in church vases to remain
fresh for a week. There are not many Roses
that -would last in this way. The new climbing
sport, Climbing Sunburst, is, of course, equally
durable.
The white Roses are not numerous. Fran
Karl Druschki is, of course, one of the best ;
but the new scented Druschki, Mrs. Andrew
Carnegie, lasts equally well, and Molly Sharmaii
Crawford in a lesser degree. Among Roses "\
other colours which outlast other sorts there is
ample choice — Marquise de Sinety and the sort
which may one day supplant it because of its
superior habit, viz., Mme. Lutand ; Juliet ;
that grand bedding coppery orange varietv A. R.
is the extra amount of pleasure one may get by
planting the Roses which last. Ladybird.
SOME RECENTLY INTRO-
DUCED SWEETSCENTED
ROSES.
THEORETICALLY, all Roses should
be sweet-scented, as they should all
he of good form, perpetual habit, pure
colour and perfect hardiness. But
in a plant which has shown itself
capable of such infinite variety that
" custom can never stale " its chami, it would
seem almost too much to expect that any one
kind should combine in itself in a marked degree
all these desirable qualities. The ideal in Roses,
as in other matters, is not easily come by. Like
the will-o'-the-wisp, it is always luring us on.
but can never be overtaken. But in the effort
to reach it we have many beautiful experiences
which those who are content with mediocrity
can never know, so that no one has yet produced
the ideal Rose of our imaginations, yet hybridists i
are yearly adding to our gardens Roses which, 1
in one respect or another, do approach the ideal.
It is hard to imagine a Rose of more perfect fonn
than British Queen, of more glowing colour than
Mme. Edouard Herriot, or of more delicious
scent than H. E. Richardson, and all of these are
of very recent introduction.
Possibly during the last ten years, which have
seen the wonderful advance of the Hybrid Teas,
the qualities of form, colour and floriferousness
have been more highly esteemed than that of
fragrance. But if this has been so, I think the
tide has begun to turn. A special cup was offered
last June at the Holland House Show for the
Rose having the " true Old Damask scent," and
at the National Rose Society's Show the judges
of seedling Roses were instructed that " some
importance is now attached to scent, which,
though not always attainable, gives a Rose an
added charm." This may, perhaps, be considered
rather a mild way of describing what to many
is the sine qua non of a good Rose ; but it is,
I believe, the first time that judges have been
specially asked to consider fragrance as one of
the " points " of a new Rose. Mrs. Bertram
Walker, a variety of fine form and colour, had
also the charm of fragrance, and if it proves to
be of good hardy habit, will well deserve the
gold medal which it was awarded.
Mrs. George Norwood, a beautifully shaped
Rose of a clear soft pink, has a delicious scent,
and should certainly be tried by anyone wanting
a good new Rose. This Rose competed for the
" Clay " Cup which was offered at Holland House
for the variety not yet in commerce having in
the most marked degree the real Damask Rose
scent. Some seven or eight varieties were sho-mi,
and the cup was awarded to a Rose of Messrs.
William Paul and Sons' appropriately called
Queen of Fragrance. If there is anything in a
name, it should do well. It was a large, rather
flat, pink flower, flushed in the centre with bright
blush pink, and, I imagine, like Mrs. George
Norwood, belonged to the Hybrid Tea class.
Though bright in colour and verj' fragrant, it was
not nearly such a beautifully shaped Rose as Mrs.
George Norwood. Messrs. Alexander Dickson and
Sons showed a Rose called Mrs. Brs'ce Allen, which,
though neither bright in colour nor good in shape,
had a wonderful fragrance, and from it the diligent
hybridist may evolve more beautiful and equally
sweet-scented progeny. These varieties will, I
hope, be offered for sale this autumn ; but,
naturally, they will still be expensive, and in the
nature of experiments. I will now mention a
few well-tried, though comparatively recent intro-
ductions. In looking through a list of Roses
of the last five years, I have noted the following
varieties as being specially fragrant :
Andre Gamon (1909, H.T.). — A fairiy vigorous
variety of deep carmine pink, good shape and
real Rose scent.
Lady Alice Stanley (1909). — Very vigorous.
If grown in too strong a soil, the flowers are apl
to come coarse ; but in a light soil and not overfed
they are well shaped, of very attractive colouring,
coral rose on the outside of the petals and pale pink
on the inside. The very pronounced scent is a mix-
ture of Tea and Hybrid Perpetual. White Lady.
{To be fonliiiiiCil.)
October io, 1914-^
THE GARDEN.
493
SOME OF THE NEWER
ROSES SUITABLE FOR
EXHIBITION.
1FIND as each autumn arrives thai amateurs
are more desirous than ever of plauting
Roses that possess beautiful form and
also substance, so that if necessary they
can exhibit the blooms. And one is not
at all surprised at this. Far too many
novelties of the present day possess but three
qualifications. They are most lovely in colour,
with delightful buds, and make vigorous growth,
but the full-blown flowers are little more than
single. We are then . bombarded with enquiries
for full Roses — "a good full Rose" — and il i-;
with the object of introducing such tn the
reader that this article is written.
As the older varieties are well known,
it will only be necessary for me to
name the newer kinds, and I will do
so briefly and in alphabetical order.
There are several others I could name,
but I prefer to give them another
season's trial before pronouncing on
their merits.
Alexander Hill Gray (T.), although
not large, is, nevertheless, of such fine
shape that it should find a place in every
collection. I have been very pleased with
it this year, and it throws up fine, strong
basal growths crowned with grand blooms
of a deep lemon colour.
Alice Lemon (H.T.) is a blush white
variety of exquisite form and fulness. It
is of American origin.
Annie Crawford (H. p.). —Those who
saw this Rose at Bath when it obtained
the National Rose Society's gold medal
mil not soon forget it. The boxful was
one of the features of this fine show.
The blooms are of wondrous size and
splendid form ; it is probably the largest
Hybrid Perpetual grown. Maiden plants
will grow to a height of 6 feet to 8 feet.
If it is a free bloomer as a cut-back it
will be most valuable. It struck me as
being a superior Mrs. John Laing.
Augustus Hartmann (H.T.). — This has
been exhibited so grandly by its raisers,
Messrs. B. R. Cant and Sons, that I
have no doubt as to its merits when in
the hands of the skilled grower. The
colour, geranium red, seems to be an
advance on George C. Waud.
Aviateur Michel Mahieu (H.T.).— Decidedly
good, coral red, with vivid centre. It has
fine long buds, very distinct in colour, deepening
as the season ad^'ances.
Candeur Lyonnaise.— Really an improved
Frau Karl Druschki with a lemon tinge, and a
much fuller flower. Perhaps in general appear-
ance it is too much like its parent, and it will be
diflScult for judges to distinguish one from the
other.
Colleen (H.T.).- As I saw it at Portadown
this Rose was really wonderful. Its fine guard
petals were a feature. The colour is brilliant
rose pink.
Comte G. de Rochemur (H.T.).— A very neat
flower of brilliant scarlet red. A good front-row
flower and very free.
Coronation (H.P.). — An extraordinarily vigorous
gniwer and a grand flower of the colour of Her
Majesty, with a more majestic form. Perhaps
not free blooming enough for a garden Rose,
but this I cannot say definitely until after
another year's trial.
Countess of Clanwilliam (H.T). — Delicate
peach, flamed cherry red. I thought this the
best novelty I had seen when visiting Belmont
last year, and I would advise all exhibitors to
get it.
Countess of Shaftesbury (H.T.).— Exquisitely
lovely in the bud and when half open. Rather thin
when fully out, but, if well disbudded, most useful
for show ; it is one of the best of garden Roses.
Colour, bright carmine pink.
C. W. Cowan (H.T.). — A very fine colour, mid-
way between Marquise Litta and George C. Waud.
There being so few rich red Roses among the
Hybrid Teas, this should be very welcome.
ROSE MRS. CHARLES RUSSELL, A NEW ROSE
VARIETY THAT LASTS FRESH A LONG TIME WHEN
Dr. Nicolas Welter (H.T.).— Rosy salmon,
with vivid centre. Fine long, egg-shaped flower
and a glorious garden Rose.
Duchess of Normandy (H.T.).— A sport of
Dean Hole, and its counterpart in every way
save colour, which is salmon flesh paling to
cream.
Duchess of Sutherland (H.T.) —Like a glorified
Captain Christy, with a more shapely flower.
Superb in form, not very free in the autumn,
and a terror for mildew.
Edgar M. Burnett (H.T.). — An improved La
France. This variety will be as great a favourite
as Lady Alice Stanley.
General-Superior A. Janssen (H.T.).— Glowing
carmine. Excellent grower. Much deeper than
Mrs. W. J. Grant. Will become a general
favourite.
Geoffrey Henslow (H.T.).— Another Rose of
the colour of George C. Waud. Apparently a
better grower and altogether most promising.
George Dickson (H.T.). — The " best dark Rose
in the world," as I heard it described, and well
worthy to bear such an honoured name. If it
only carried its flowers erect and did not produce
so many split blooms and were freer in blooming
in the autumn, with less mildew, I should value
it more ; but no exhibitor can afford to be without
it, and perhaps we have yet to learu how to treat
it best.
H. V. Machin (H.T.). ^Scarlet crimson. A
magnificent bloom, one that we shall all want.
Juwel (H.T.). — One of the purest whites and
quite large. The flowers are like big Water
Lilies. Lovely in the half-open stage.
Killarney Brilliant (H.T.) is sure to be good.
The colour is almost crimson.
King George V. (H.T.).— Almost a
Hybrid Perpetual. Not very free flower-
ing, but a splendid bloom and very
valuable to the exhibitor. Colour,
violet crimson.
Mabel Drew (H.T.). — One of the
best of the Newtownards Roses, which
is saying a good deal. A very refined
flower, almost Tea-like in this resped.
Colour, pale creamy yellow.
Mme. C. Chambard (H.T.). — Rosy
flesh, from Prince de Bulgarie. Fine
form and most promising.
Majestic (H.T.). — Colour, carmine rose,
of grand form and fulness.
Marcella (H.T.). — Salmon flesh, very
full. Good.
Margaret (H.T.). — Scarcely a novelty
now, but should be grown by everyone.
A fine deep flower of soft pink colour.
Marquise de Ganay (H.T.).— If well
disbudded, blooms may be had of splendid
size and very perfect form. Although a pink,
it is distinct. A most prodigious bloomer.
Mayflower (H.T.). ^Decidedly good,
reminding one in colour of old
Devoniensis, only of much better form
and fulness.
Mrs. Amy Hammond (H.T.).— May be
grown to an immense size. It is so very
distinct that all must have it. Colour,
amber and cream.
Mrs. Andrew Carnegie (H.T.). — A
much overrated Rose. I have not seen
a good flower all the season. It grows
well, and perhaps some may show it well
if it is shaded and papered up, but it is
a Rose I would not care to recommend while
we have others better.
Mrs. Charles Russell (H.T.). — Very fine
and with such lasting properties. The petals are
almost wax-like in texture. Colour, rosy carmine.
Mrs. E. Alford (H.T.).— .-V Rose better under
glass than outside, although at times it is
"ood. It is a vers' bad one for mildew. Coloiu-,
silvery pink.
Mrs. George Shawyer (H.T.).— Of superb
form and clear rose pmk colour. Should be
well sprayed to prevent mildew. Early in the
summer it is grand.
Mrs. James Lynas (H.T.).— A grand Rose as
seen at Belmont. I hope it will turn out as well
in Enlgand. Colour, pearly pink, shaded peach.
Mrs. Muir Maokean (H.T.).— A distinct Rose
and of fine form. Very useful. Colour, carmine
PINK
CUT.
494
THE GARDEN.
[October io, 1914.
Mrs. R. D. McCIure (H.T.).— Probably the
best of last season's novelties. Like a very warm-
loloured Lady Ashtowii.
Mrs. Wallace H. Rowe (H.T.).— Very fine, of
rather dwarf growth, reminding one of Papa
Lambert in form and colour.
Nerissa (H.T,). — Good. Almost a dwarf
Mnie. Jules Gravereaux. Opens badly in wet
weather.
Ophelia (H.T.). — A magnificent Rose, and at
times quite good enough for a front-row flower.
Colour, salmon flesh, shaded orange.
Souv. de M. Floquet (H.T.).— Another of the
r,eorge C. Waud colour, rather less full, but more
globular. It has been very fine with me.
COLOURED PLATE.
PL&TB 1502.
THREF GOOD GARDEN ROSES.
THE three Roses shown in the accom-
panying coloured plate were purposely
selected as three excellent and com-
paratively new Roses for garden
decoration. Neither of them is a really
good exhibition sort, but all are ex-
cellent for bedding and for cutting. Taking them in
order of seniority, we must first deal with General
McArthur. This was raised in America and first
put into commerce in rgoj. It must have been
with this, as we have never had them behave in
this waj-.
Next must come Lady Hilluigdon, raised by
iVIessrs. Lowe and Shawyer, and sent out in igio.
We feel that we owe an apology to this charming
Rose. For the first two years that we saw it and
grew it, we were not greatly enamoured with its
behaviour. Its flowers hung their heads too much
and did not seem to come a good colour. This
last two seasons, however, it has improved very
considerably in both respects, and may be fairly
regarded as one of the best yellow bedding Roses
that we have. It is a Tea Rose and very charming
when cut, and in the half-opened stage is ideal for
button-holes. It has a moderately vigorous habit
iri^m
A BEAUTIFUL EFFECT OBTAINED BY USING RAMBLER AND DWARF ROSES IN CONJUNCTION.
St. Helena (H.T.).— At times too much like
Joseph Hill. It may, perhaps, be of better habit,
but is evidently a seedling of that grand sort,
and we have now enough of that type.
Sunburst (H.T.). — iVIagnificent and quite good
enough for a show box, whether of a pale
colour, as it frequently appears, or its true deep
cadmium yellow.
There are undoubtedly some other good Roses of
recent introduction that will prove excellent
for exhibition, and it would be interesting if
those who have grown them would send their
experiences to the Editor. Roses behave so
differently in different localities that too much
cannot be known about them, especially these
newer varieties, Danecroft.
very soon after tliat date when our attention was
drawn to it in Messrs. Stuart Low and Co.'s nursery
by IVIr. L. J. Cook, who then predicted a brilliant
future for it. That his high opinion of it was
justified, time has proved. As we write, in the
closing days of September, a bed of this deliciously
fragrant Rose, edged with the white Polyantha
Katherine Zeimet, is one of the most brilliant and
pleasing features in our garden. This Hybrid Tea
Rose has a vigorous, branching habit, is seldom
attacked by mildew, flowers freely from June until
well into October, and the blooms are as fragrant
as the Roses of our forefathers. In a few gardens
we have seen the blooms take on rather a blue
tint during the very hottest days of July, but
imagine that the soil must have something to do
and is not so much addicted to black spot and
mildew as many other sorts.
The third Rose in the plate, Louise Catherme
Breslau, we owe to the skill of M. Pernet-Pucher.
It is classed by the National Rose Society as an
Austrian hybrid, but we hope the race will soon
be known as Pemet Roses. As it was only sent
out two years ago, we cannot say a great deal
about it at present, except to predict that it will be-
come, in a few years' time, one of the best-known
garden varieties. It is really an improved Arthur
R. Goodwin, a Rose of which we have always
held a very high opinion, but which is scarcely
vigorous enough in many gardens. We have seen
Louise Catherine Breslau growing in several
nurseries last year and this, and intend to find room
Siipf^lciiicni to THE GAfWKN, October \olli, 1914.
THREE GOOD GARDEN ROSES
Red: "General McArthur."
Yellow: "Lady Hillingdon."
Buff: "Louise Catherine Breslau."
Hudson & Kearns, Ltd., London. S E
October io, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
495
tor a few bushes this autumn. It appears to have
a good constitution, and those who have grown it
are not at all backward in singing its praises.
Messrs. H. Merryweatlier and Sons of Southwell,
Notts, to whoni we are indebted for the flowers
from which the coloured plate was prepared, con-
sider it one of the best
garden Roses of its colour
— and they are good judges.
October. Mignonette and Gloire des Polyanthas,
pink and rose pink, alike in habit, with trusses
of cup-shaped, semi-double flowers. White Pet,
like a dwarf Felicity Perp6tue. All of the foregoing
make fine edging or bedding kinds. These were
followed by the two Lameschs — Eug&iie Lamesch,
since the introduction of the Baby Ramblers
that attention has been directed afresh to this
class, Following closely upon Crimson Rambler,
Dorothy Perkins and other new climbers, they
have fitted in so well with the new scheme of
Rose gardenmg as to obtain a well-deserved
POLYANTHA
ROSES IN THE
GARDEN.
w
I T H the
advent of
the Baby
Ramblers,
the class
of Dwarf
Polyanthas forms a charm-
ing addition to onr bedding
Roses. These so - called
Baby Ramblers are, of
course, not ramblers at
all, but little dwarf bushes
from r foot to 2 feet in
lieight, and nearly always
in flower. Only in the
shape and the large trusses
of flower and, to some
extent, in their foliage do
they resemble the ramblers.
As far back as r879 a
separate class existed for
Polyantha Roses, or, as the
National Rose Society pre-
fers to call them, so as to
distinguish them from the
Multifloras, the Polyantha
Pompons. This was at a
time previous to the great
new class of Hybrid Teas
and during the pre-
eminence of the Hybrid
Perpttuals and pure Teas.
Among the then small col-
lection of these miniature-
flowered kinds there were
several, mostly with large
bunches of flowers, used for
edging and small beds,
some, like Perle d'Or and
CecUe Brimner, Tea-like in
form, and others, such as
White Pet and Mignonette,
favouring the Multiflora
and the Sempervirens
hybrids in their shape of
flower and leaf. All of
them were small flowered,
and of dwarf and perpetual
habit.
Some of the best of these
are still grown, and are
yet extensively used as a
finish to beds of large-
flowered kinds. Of these the following are to , with the scent of Pafma Violets and valuable for
be recommended: Anna de Montravel {r879), I its coloirr, clear yellow, edged mauve ; and Leonie
white, very dwarf, beautiful form. Cecile Brunner , Lamesch, most distinct in its shades of terra-
(pale pink) and Perle d'Or (salmon yellow), both cotta red and orange, but rather taller than
with large, bold bunches of flowers ; a fine ' the others of this section. These earlier
match in form and habit, and persisting until | varieties still have a certain vogue, but it is
A CHARMING GROUPING OF ROSES AND
DELPHINIUMS IN A GARDEN AT SURBITON
WILL SOON BE HERE.
HILL. PLANTING TIME
popularity. The first of them, Mme. N. Levavas-
seur (Baby Rambler), proved dull in colour,
and in dry seasons sometimes failed to continue
its crops of flower, but it was quickly followed
by better and brighter kinds. Maman Levavas-
seur (Baby Dorothy), a dwarf, very free pink j
496
THE GARDEN.
[October io. 1914.
Katherine Zeimet, perhaps the freest and best
white ; Phyllis and Mrs. Cutbush, pinks ; and,
finally, Jessie and Orleans, reds, are among the
latest additions. Another good white is Jeanne
d'Arc, not only good in itself, but a first-rate
companion to Mrs. Cutbush and Jessie, the three
going remarkabh- well together. Jessie is
probably the most perpetual and continuously
blooming Rose we have. Beginning in late June,
it persists until the November or December frosts,
retaining its dwarf habit and vielding innumerable
crops of crimson scarlet flowers. Mrs. Cutbush
as a clear pink and Orleans as a rosy scarlet are
in the same way, but slightly taller. All these
varieties have shiny, clean foliage, and Mrs. Cutbush
and Orleans have flow-er-stalks sufficiently long
to enable them to be cut for table
decoration. These Pompon Roses
should be planted in beds closely
together, about 15 inches by
12 inches apart. They replace
with advantage the Geraniums and
other plants in summer bedding,
and in the Rose garden they add
a finish and an elegance to the Teas
and Hybrid Teas, and may be
planted as an edging to these
larger-flowered kinds or separately
m a bed, the flatness of such beds
being with advantage broken up
by the insertion of a few lialf-
standards of the same kinds on
2 feet to 2J feet stems. These
half - standards are particularly
attractive and floriferous. Also
the value of such kinds as Jessie
and Orleans as pot plants has
already been proved. They are
always in bloom and easily grown,
and they mingle, too, so well %vith
the Ramblers in pots which are
so much used in house and green-
house decoration.
Finally, a word must be said as
to the other and newer varieties.
Ema Teschendorff is a deep rich
crimson sport from Mme. N.
Levavasseur, but possessing its
faults as well as its merits.
Aennchen Muller has immense
trusses of flowers, but is subject to
mildew. Varieties like Kleiner
Alfred, Miese and Cyclope are
delightful in colouring, but do not
grow well, and so are useless for
massing. A really good yellow has
not yet been obtained, though, ROSE FLOR
after Eugenie Lamesch, perhaps
George Elger may be cited as the
most suitable for massing. This last is distmctly
promising, but is closer to the Tea section than to
the Baby Ramblers. Aschenbrodel is a most delicate
pink in colouring and is distinct. The variety Queen
of the Musks, with almost evergreen foliage and
mildew-proof, is somewhat lacking in brightness,
but probably will be the progenitor of future
kinds. It is most profuse and autumnal. R3d-
hfitte, a hybrid between Jessie and Hybrid Tea
Liberty, is intermediate between its two parents.
It has bold bunches of light red flowers, a clean,
bright green foliage, and is never out of bloom.
Yvonne Lornage, a vivid coppery terra-cotta and
red, promises well and is most distinct, and
Mamaii Turbat and Jenny Soupert may prove
useful additions to the pinks. Some adva".cc has
been made with the singles, and of these Papa
Heraeray, growing from ; foot to 18 inches,
with large bunches of single flowers, crimson in
colour, is distinctly good. Altogether a very
pretty class, and one likely to be developed in
the near future. G. Laing Paul.
THE BEST AUTUMN-
FLOWERING ROSES.
The wonderful strides that have been made in
the improvement of Roses during the last
ten or fifteen years are never at any other
time brought quite so vividly to our notice as
ENCE FORRESTER, A NEW WHITE HYBRID TEA RAISED
BY MESSRS. S. MCGREDY AND SON.
duraig the wauing days of autumn. Instead of
the straggling bushes, with their few badly formed
flowers, that were the rule rather than the excep-
tion, we now have the Rose garden in September,
and often well into October, almost as brilliant
and certainly quite as interesting as in the more
genial days of June and July. The present year
has been an exceptionally good one for Roses,
especially where the beds were mulched early
with short manure to preserve the natural moisture
of the soil, and I do not ever remember seeing such
a beautiful autumn display of good blooms as there
is just now. In some respects these autumn
Roses are preferable to those of stmimer ; they
may not be quite so large, but the cooler weather
enables the exquisite colour of some to be better
revealed, while the blooms last in good condition
for a much longer period, whether cut or left on
the bushes. This lasting character is recognised
by the National Rose Society, who held a two days'
autumn show last year for the first time.
Now that there are so many good autumn-
flowering Roses, it is not without some hesitation
that one ventures to compile a list of the best.
Differences of opinion there will always be, and it
is necessary to remember that a Rose which does
well in one garden will not always give good results
in another. Most of the varieties named here 1
have had under observation for three years, some
considerably longer, and their inclusion is not
based on their behaviour in one garden, but in
raan>', as well as in some of the largest Rose
nurseries in many parts of the
country. Crimson and scarlet
shades : 'General McArthur, Rich-
mond, Liberty, *EcarIate, •Griiss
an Teplitz. Hugh Dickson, J. B.
Clark, Florence Haswell Veitch and
•ChSteau de CI05 Vougeot. Pink
shades : *Caroline Testout, *Lady
Ashtown, *Lady Alice Stanley,
Mme. Segond Weber, Mrs. E. J.
Holland, GustavGrunerwald, 'Miss
Cynthia Forde, Koaigin Carola, La
Tosca and 'Zephyrine Drouhin.
Yellow, orange and buff shades :
•Arthur R. Goodwin, ♦Duchess of
Wellington, Rayon d'Or, Marquise
de Sinety, *Mme. Ravary, Lady
Hillingdon, ♦Amateur Teyssier and
Crepuscule. Shaded salmon, fawn
or apricot : 'Prince de Bulgarie,
♦Pharisaer, ♦Mme. Leon Pain,
*Mme. Abel Chatenay, Earl of
Warwick, Betty, ♦Lady Pirrie and
Fran Lilla Rautenstrauch. Cream
and white : ♦Entente Cordiale
(Ducher), Molly Sharinan Craw-
ford, 'James Coey, Mrs. Herbert
Stevens, ♦Frau Karl Druschki and
Mrs. David McKee. Nita Weldon
should come here, but the flowers
are not erect enough for bedding.
In addition to the varieties already
named, I would include *George
C. Waud (vermilion, sufiused
orange) and •Frances Charteris
Seton, usually described as rose
pink, although it is scarcely what
one usually associates with that
colour. It is an excellent Rose,
and very fragrant. Among the
whites one would like to in-
clude White Killamey, were it
not such a martyr to mildew.
Of Dwarf Polyantha Roses there are several
good varieties for the autumn, the best of all.
in my opinion, being ♦Jessie, which commences
to produce its unfading clusters of bright scarlet
crimson flowers early in July, and never halts
imtil the frosts of October put it out of court.
Orleans, with bright pink flowers, is very charming
in the autumn ; during the hot days of summer its
blossoms get badly scorched. Aennchen Mii'.ler,
with its clusters of rather large pink flowers, which
have curiously but not unpleasantly twisted petals ;
and Katherine Zeimet (white) must also be named
here. For the benefit of those who will shortly
be planting, I have marked with an asterisk what
I consider the best two dozen bush Roses for
autumn flowering. It would be interesting and
October io, 1914.
THE GARDEN.
497
'mmi
Unfortunately, most of these Roses
have only one flowering season ;
but a few hybridists, notably the
Rev. J. H. Pemberton, are devot-
ing their attentions to the creation
of a perpetual-flowering race, and
already there are several varieties
obtainable which flower freely in
autumn as well as in the warmer
days of summer.
But even though we only get
three or four weeks of blossom
from the wichuraiana hybrids, they
are so beautiful as to justify us
in planting them freely. At one
time we used to find trellis and
arches clothed with Ivy, Virginian
Creeper, or other more or less
uninteresting plants, but now their
places have been taken by the
Roses. Apart from the wichuraiana
and multiflora hybrids, however,
we must not overlook the large-
flowered rambling varieties — sports
in most instances of well-known
Hybrid Teas or Hybrid Perpetuals.
Thus we have rambling forms of
Mrs. W. J. Grant, Liberty, Lady
Ashtown and Sunburst, Roses the
value of which can scarcely be
over-estimated, especially where
good blooms are required for cut-
ting. We must remember that
these strong-growiug forms of our
useful il readers would send the Editor other j favourite bush Roses give almost, if not quite,
lists. as good blooms as the bush plants, and, owing
For rambling Roses that flower in autumn we i to the greater length of stem, in much larger
''^, ■ ":.T ■■"*■ '■'
A ROSE ARCH PHOTOGRAPHED SHORTLY AFTER EREC
TION AND JUST AS THE ROSES HAD BEEN PLANTED.
quantities. In addition to these there is yet another
type of Rambler Rose with large flowers, good
examples of which are Mme. Alfred Carriere,
white, and Longworth Rambler,
bright cherry red. These are ex
must forsake the lyichuraianas and turn to the
Teas, Noisettes, climbing forms of Hybrid Teas, or
Bourbon hybrids:" Longworth Rambler (light
crimson), Ards Rover (crimson), Gloire de Dijon
(buff), Climbing Caroline Testout, Climbing Mrs.
W. J. Grant, Armosa (pink), Bouton d'Or (usually ^ ceedingly vigorous and flower from
referred to as an improved Gloire de Dijon) and ! June until well into October ; hence
Danae (creamy yellow) are about the best, their value in the garden must not
William Allen Richardson, the well-known rambling ; be overlooked.
Noisette, is this year flowering well for the second When we come to Roses for
time in many places, but its behaviour as an piUars or posts $ feet or 6 feet
autumn-flowering Rose is rather erratic. Gustave , high, we have quite a number of
Regis, too, is flowering well now, but, though * excellent semi-rambling varieties to
suitable for pillars, is scarcely strong enough for ' select from. Griiss an Teplitz.
arches or pergolas. It is one of the best button- Gustave Regis, Zephyrine Drouhiu,
hole Roses we have, its long, pointed buds of ; Irish Elegance and Hugh Dickson
nankeen yellow being always acceptable. H, are all good Roses that do best
_^^_^^_^___^^^_^^__^^ when allowed to extend to large
bushes, and each will easily clothe
a pillar of the height named. They
are all ideal for cutting, and it
would be difficult to select a more
charming Rose for a button-hoh-
than the half-opened bloom ol
Gustave Regis.
The mention of pillar Roses
brings to mind two excellent varie-
ties that have had this name
applied to them in rather a mis-
leading way. I refer to Paul's
Carmine Pillar and American Pillar.
It is perfectly true that both do
make excellent pillars, but their
vigour is such that they are more
at home over a tall arch, trellis or
pergola, where their bushy growths
can develop fully. In the Rose
the illustration at the top of this page was used
as an example of a good rustic arch, the posts being
placed 4 feet 6 inches apart each way, and the
height over all 8 feet. The photograph from which
that illustration was prepared was taken at the
end of March, 1912, directly after it had been
constructed and the Roses planted. The other
illustration on this page is from a photograph of
the same arch, but from a different standpoint,
taken in July this year, i.e., a little over two
years after the Roses were planted. Four varieties
were put in, one at each post, viz., American
Pillar, Francois Foucard, Shower of Gold and Mme.
Alfred Carri&re. The variety seen so prominently
in the second illustration is American Pillar, which
has clothed the whole of one side of the arch and
smothered Franfois Foucard, as well as taking
unto itself the whole of the roof. On the other
side Mme. Alfred Carriere has done well, and
Shower of Gold is struggling for space. Many of
the rods of American Pillar were at pruning-time
14 feet long, and were shortened back to about
eleven feet. During the whole of July this Rose
was a picture to behold, its large trusses of rose
pink single flowers, with their white centres,
lasting in good condition for over a month. It
is a Rambler Rose that ought to be in every
garden in the United Kingdom. Paul's Carmine
Pillar is also a single-flowered Rose, and one of
the earliest to open its blooms. If grown as a
pillar, it ought to have a support at least 10 feet
high, and it will grow much taller than that. At
j Kew it is allowed to ramble at will over an old
evergreen, I believe a Holly, and the background
of dark green foliage mirrors into greater relief the
vividcolourof the Roses. Unfortunately, the blooms
are fugacious, but its vigorous habit, freedom of
flowering, and the early date at which the
blooms open, place it in the category of the
indispensables. S. X.
ROSES ON ARCHES,
PERGOLAS AND PILLARS.
SINCE the advent of Crimson Rambler
and its retinue of wichuraiana hybrids,
a good deal of interest has been taken
in Rambler Roses, and it is difficult
now to find a garden of any dimensions
without an arch or post supporting one
or more of the many beautiful varieties obtainable.
This is undoubtedly a step in the right direction.
These Rambler Roses, judiciously used, are
capable of creating very beautiful effects in the
garden, as will be seen in the illustration on page 494,
where ramblers are used in conjunction with bush
varieties. There we see part of a lofty pergola
gracefulh- clothed with free-flowering ramblers,
the beauty and interest of which cannot be denied. ' Number of The Garden last year
THE SAME ARCH PHOTOGRAPHED A LITTLE OVER TWO
YEARS LATER.
498
THE GARDEN.
[October io, 1014.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruit Under Glass.
Early Peaeh Trees in Pots. — Tiie necessary
pruning and thinning of these trees should be
accomplished at once. Very little water will
be needed until the trees are placed in the
forcing-house. If red spider has been present
on the foliage during recent dry weather, the
trees must be thoroughly washed before they are
introduced to their winter quarters. In the mean-
time they should be fully exposed to the weather,
but some means must be adopted to keep them
from being blown over by rough wind.
Vines. — Yomis Vines which were planted in
April should still be growing freely, and must
receive a liberal supply of clear water at the roots.
Lateral growths may be cut back to within one
eye of the main stem in order to secure the full
benefit of the sun. Ventilate freely during the
day, shutting the house early in the afternoon ;
but damping of the floors or wall will not be
aecessar}' now.
Midseason Vines ti\>m which the Grapes have
been cut may now be half-pruned in order to plump
up the buds near the base of the shoots. Examine
the borders and, if necessary, give a good soaking
of clear, soft water. The ventilators may be left
open day ,\nd night.
Plants Under Glass.
Chrysdnthemums. — No time should be lost
in removing the plants from the open air to a well-
ventilated structure, where they should be fully
exposed to the light. Do not place the plants too
closely together, as this will have a detrimental
effect on the foliage. The latest batch of plants
may still be left in the open, but some protection
should be at hand in case of frost. If blinds are
available, some temporary spars can be placed
in position 2 feet above the plants, so that the
blinds may not come in contact with the foliage.
Some stimulant will be necessary, but must be
applied in moderation, or more harm than good
may result.
Euphorbia jacquiniaeflora. — ^This is one of the
handsomest winter-flowering stove plants, and
succeeds well when planted in the warmest end
of the stove and trained on the roof. As a pot
plant the best results are obtained by striking
three or four cuttings in a small pot in the spring,
and potting them on undisturbed as it becomes
necessary. By this method the plants do not
require stopping, and the shoots will, consequently,
be much stronger. Very careful watering is
necessary, and, when the flower-buds are formed,
the plants will benefit bv applications of weak
manure-water.
Camellias. — Disbudding should be carefully
performed before they are too far advanced,
leaving one bud on each shoot where the plants
are in robust health. Syringe twice daily with
soft water when the weather is favourable. If
necessary, a top-dressing of turfy loam and peat
may be applied after the removal of the old surface
soil, and this must be made quite tight by ramming.
Mamu-e-water may be applied with advantage.
The soil must never be permitted to become
too dry, or the buds will drop in consequence.
Azaleas which have been grown in the open
during the summer should now be removed to a
cool house where air can be freely admitted.
Syringe with clear water daily, and i"f thrips are
present on the foliage, the house should be care-
(ully fumigated once or twice to make quite
certain of their destruction.
The Flower Garden.
Agapanthus and other specimen plants in
tubs should be placed under cover with as little
delay as possible. Large plants of Ivy-leaved
Geraniums may be placed in some well-ventilated
structure where they will receive as much light
as possible during the dark days of winter.
Lobelia Cuttings.— It is not too late to part and
make cuttings of stock plants which may have
been cut over for the purpose. The small cuttings
are preferable, as they will stand the winter
much better than old plants. A close, cold pit
is all that is necessary, providmg sufficient silver
sand is used.
Begonias may be lifted as soon as the foliage
has died do^m, and the tubers placed in shallow
boxes. When quite dry they may be stored in
a dry, frnst-proof room until the spring.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Planting. — The earlier this work is taken in
hand the better, especially if the trees have been
grown at home for a season with the intention
of filling vacant spaces, as in this case it is un-
necessary to wait until the leaves drop, providing
the roofs are moistened before lifting. But if
the trees have to be brought from a distance,
it is not advisable to lift them so soon as to cause
the bark to shrivel, or the result will not be satis-
factory. Sweet Cherry trees, which lose their
leaves early and are among the first to bloom,
may be lifted first. When planting fruit trees
of any kind, if the same site has to be occupied
again, an effort should be made to provide new
soil for the piu'pose, and this may frequently
be obtained from some part of the garden where
fruit trees have not been growm. This may be
enriched with crushed bones, old lime rubble and
thoroughly decomposed manure from the farm-
yard, which should only be applied as a surface-
dressing. Drainage is an important matter in
heavy soil, and this must be carefully attended
to in the first instance. In such soil deep
planting must be avoided.
The Kitchen Garden.
Mushrooms. — There need be no difficulty now
in providing a supply of Mushrooms throughout
the winter if sufficient horse-manirre is available
to make up the beds. This should be collected
daily and placed in an open shed, where it may :
be turned every second day until it is ready for
removal to the Mushroom-house. Place the
manmre in position and allow it to remain until
the temperature of the material rises to 85°. At
this stage the manure should be rammed tiglitly
together, and spawning may take place when
the temperature has dropped to 80°.
French Beans in Pits. — Young plants in
flower should be freely ventilated diu-ing mild
weather. Give a liberal supply of water at the
roots and do all that is possible to promote clean,
healthy growth. Another sowing may be made
in 7-inch pots, which should be placed in a tempera-
ture of 65°. As soon as the plants are well through
the surface, they should be placed within 18 inches
of the roof glass. Syringe twice daily, and as
growth advances give frequent waterings of
liquid manure.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Mushrooms. — Beds that were spawned about
the beginning of last month should now be pro-
ducing Mushrooms. Attend carefully to the
damping of the paths and walls, and if the surface
becomes dry, a slight spraying of tepid water
must be given. Some clean straw may be spread
over the surface, which will keep the bed in a
fairly moist condition. Continue to collect fresh
horse-manure for successive beds, spreading it
out in a dry, open shed and turning it frequently
to prevent heating.
Parsnips. — In lifting and storing root crops
it should be remembered that Parsnips keep
better in the ground than out of it, so that roots
ought only to be taken up when wanted. Should
frost be severe, a covering of some strawy manure
may be spread over the ground. This will prevent
injury to the roots and facilitate the raising of
the crop when wanted.
The Flower Garden.
Roses. — Dwarf Roses should be gone over
at this season and any unusually long shoots
shortened back to at least half their length. If
left alone, these strong shoots are frequently
broken off entirely at the base by wind. But
perhaps the most serious danger resulting from
these shoots is their swaying to and fro, thus
loosening the plants and breaking off the more
tender roots. Where it is intended to make
new plantations next month, the groimd should
be prepared at once, so that there will be no delay
in planting when the Roses arrive.
Sweet Peas. — The sowing of Sweet Peas in
the autumn (that is, in pots) has much to commend
it. Some years ago we sowed a large batch about
the middle of October, and we had the satisfaction
of having them still in bloom the following October.
Sow five or six seeds in a 6-inch pot, cover with
half an inch of soil, and place the pots in a cold
frame. When the young growths appear, remove
the pots to a cool house and place them on a shelf
near the glass. Very little water will be required
during the next two' months,
Spanish Irises. — It would be difficult to imagine
anything more beautiful than a collection of these
lovely Orchid-like flowers, which come into bloom
about the beginning of June. It would be quite
out of place to mention varieties, as they are all
more or less beautiful. The bulbs should be
planted about four inches deep in loose, sandy soil
and the same distance apart.
Plants Under Glass.
Poinsettias. — These fine winter decorative plants,
which have been hardening their growths in frames,
should now be placed in a warm house where the
temperature can be maintained at 60°. Stand
them where they can have full exposure to the
light, and as the pots will now be well filled with
roots, artificial feeding may be given. On no
account allow the plants to become dry at the
roots.
Malmaison Carnations. — Young layers potted
up last month should now be removed from the
frames to the Carnation-house. Before doing
so, all shading must be washed from the glass
and the woodwork inside thoroughly washed
down. Where gravel or ashes are used on the
stages, they had better be renewed, so that even,'-
thing is fresh and clean. During the next three
months these plants require very little water.
Admit air day and night, and in dull and foggy
weather only turn on sufficient heat to keep the
house dry.
Tuberoses. — The first of these bulbs, chiefly
from Africa, a^ri^*e about this tinte. and should
be unpacked at once and spread out on shelves,
as, owing to the long time they are in transit,
they often get heated, which renders them
entirely useless. Before potting, it is most
important that each bulb be cleaned — that is,
all the small bulblets removed — otherwise the
result will be a mass of foliage and very poor
flower-spikes.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Planting Wall Trees. — A start should now
be made in preparing the ground where wall
trees are to be transplanted, and at the outset
it may be said that if this work is done carefully,
the trees will suffer veni' little check. Prepare
a trench of sufficient size to stiit the particular
tree to be moved, and have at hand some chopped
turf and old mortar rubble, to be worked in among
the roots. Before unfastening the trees from
the walls, work the soil from the roots, retahiing
as large a ball as can be conveniently moved.
To remove the tree an ordinary plank or garden
mat shotfld be worked under the ball. Avoid
deep planting at all costs, and carefully spread
out the roots as the work of filling in the trench
proceeds. Finish by giving the ball a thorough
soaking of water to settle the soil in the trench,
and give a slight mulching of manure to encourage
root action.
Fruit Under Glass.
Vines. — No time must be lost in pruning those
Vines that are intended for early forcing. Unless
mealy bug has been present, the rods shoiJd not
be scraped ; this often does a vast amount of harm.
Merely rub off the loose bark with the hand, wash
down the woodwork, and rim a cloth soaked in
paraffin over the wires. Remove all loose surface
soil and top-dress with some good loam. When the
work is completed, keep the house wide open
and as cool as possible ; indeed, a good sharp
frost up to 10° would do no harm. Unless the
border is dry, no water should be given mttil
the house has been closed down and growth
commences,
John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of LiiUithgow.)
Hopcloun Gardens, Soulh Queensferry, N.B.
October io, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
499
ROSA PERNETIANA
1 8 3 8—1914.
Early in the reign of Queen Victoria a
new Rose named Persian Yellow arrived in
England whose manners and colour won the
admiration of rosarians of the day. This
little visitor was taken everywhere, and in
the years that followed was to be found in all
parts of the world. Some sixty years after its
arrival M. Pernet-Ducher arranged a successful
match for this wanderer, from which he gave us
Solei] d'Or in 1900. Rather plain of form, the
fierce prickles, reddish wood and scented foliage de-
-noted a new break. A few more years passed away
in that famous garden not far from the shores of
the Mediterranean where Persian Yellow first
settled down. A rosarian went on quietly working
among his Roses, till once again he startled the
Rose world by sending over the Lyon Rose
another member of Persian Yellow's family.
No need for me to describe the delight of everyone.
That April meeting of the Royal Horticultural
Society is still fresh in our minds. Recollect
once again those beds at the Franco-British
Exhibition of 1908, and how everyone wished
to possess this Rose painted with an artist's brush !
It was realised that M. Pemet-Ducher had created
a new race. Other raisers soon followed. Several
have used this blood with success, some in
keeping the strain pure, others infusing the
Pernetiana colour into the Hybrid Teas. After
Soleil d'Or and Lyon Rose we had from several
sources Les Rosati, Gottfried Keller, Entente
Cordiale and Soleil d' Angers ; then Juliet (the
pride of an English firm), Louis Barbier (one of
the most attractive for pillar work), Johannes-
feuer, Parkfeuer, Rodophlle Gravereaux and the
charming Beaute de Lyon (with huge red thorns
and fragrant foliage). These are more or less
after the style of Soleil d'Or in habit of growth.
Arthur R. Goodwin, Mme. Ruau, Viscountess
Enfield and Rayon d'Or possess the characteristics
of the Pernetiana break — scented foliage resembling
Pineapple, the reddish wood, fierce prickles,
with beauty of form and habit of growth like the
Hybrid Teas. At the International Exhibition
in London, igrj, a special prize was offered for
the best new seedling Rose. This coveted honour
was won by M. Pemet-Ducher with Mme, Edouard
Herriot. The demand was so great that everyone
had to wait a year longer to possess this wonderful
Rose, but it can now be obtained from most
nurserymen. Its colour is always described
differently. Some have it deep terra-cotta or
reddish copper ; the National Rose Society have
it vivid terra-cotta, passing to clear strawberry
rose. Can you imagine it ? No ; but when your
plants bloom you will agree with either description.
The form, habit and constitution are everything
to be desired. Like its ancestors, this Rose is
destined to travel into gardens throughout the
world.
Louise Catherine Breslau has mUdew-proof
foliage. Willowmere, named after Admiral Ward's
home in America, is an improved Lyon. Cissie
Easlea, a saffron yellow fusion from Mme. Melanie
Soupert and Rayon d'Or, is very free-blooming. It
may interest readers to know that several of the
Pemetianas were in bloom until after Christmas,
1913, Cissie Easlea being the best. Before the
charm of Mrs. George Beckwith, Rayon d'Or
pales. The former is a deeper and more brilliant
yellow, combined with handsome foliage and
thorns. We are impatiently waiting for its
fair presence in our gardens. Constance Ward,
the Constance of the International, is more vigorous
and of better habit than Rayon d'Or, blooming
freely ; a charming shade of o!d gold. Mme.
John Crouch, a sport from Lyon Rose, is an
acquisition ; and Marie Ad6Iaide Grande Duchesse
de Luxembourg, an attractive shade of orange
yellow, is well thought of by our friends across
the water. I have only seen it in two gardens.
Those who like the various shades of yellow will
appreciate it.
Messrs. Alex. Dickson of Newtownards fame,
who have utilised the Austrian strain for some
years, have some very special and promising
varieties of this class. Mr. Hugh Dickson has
given us an attractive variety from an Austrian
Yellow seedUng crossed with Joseph Hill, which
he has named Mrs. Hugh Dickson, a rich yellow,
tipped rosy pink, suffused with apricot, beauti-
fully formed large blooms ; it grows freely. One
of his latest is Muriel Dickson, after the colouring
of Mrs. A. R. WaddeU, with an effective glow in
the bloom, very charming. It possesses red
thorns, is always in bloom, excellent for bedding,
and really a wonderful colour.
Messrs. B. R. Cant have sent us Autumn Tints.
It has Pernetiana blood, and also inherits some
of Mme. Edouard Herriot's colour. Another acquisi-
tion in this class, from Mr. T. W. Piper, we have
in F. J. Barry, a pure yellow sport of Arthur R.
Goodwin, which it resembles in all but colour.
Sonnelicht is an interesting variety, very useful
for hedges and massing. It is from Mary Fitz-
wUUam crossed with Harrisonii, and has pure
canary yellow, semi-double blooms, with a delight-
ful perfume ; free blooming.
Messrs. S. McGredy and Son mfused the Perneti-
ana blood into the Hybrid Teas with excellent
results, shown in the gorgeous colours seen in
Old Gold, Lady Mary Ward, Mrs. F. W. Vanderbilt
and Mrs. C. E. Pearson. We want perpetual
climbers in Pernetiana colours after the style of
growth of Dorothy Perkins. Who is going to give
them to us ?
On May 5, r9i4, some seventy-six years after
Persian YeHow came to England and fourteen
years after the creation of a new race, the Council
of the National Rose Society of England decided
that this race should in future be known as Rosa
pernetiana, an honour well earned by the raiser
and a happy tribute of the Entente Cordiale
existing between this country and France, shown
in the welcome given to Their Majesties King
George and Queen Mary on their recent visit.
Our national flower has always been in Royal
favour. A basket of blooms was presented to
Queen Mary on Coronation Day, 1911, by the
National Rose Society. The beauty of it can be
seen in the Rose Annual for 1912. The Gracious
Patroness of the National Rose Society, Queen
Alexandra, accepted a charming basket of flowers
on St. George's Day, when the Pemetianas were
again in request for their colour.
And what of M. Pernet-Ducher, the man whose
skill has enriched our gardens beyond his own
dreams I The gorgeous array of seedlings to
come make us realise the wonderful mystery
of Nature. What memories in the background
of a mind so richly stored ! The day Persian
Yellow was fertilised, when the results of labour
bore fruit, the quiet triumph felt as the slow
creation of a new race went on under his hand ;
The readers of The Garden wish him many happy
days among the Roses he loves so well.
A list of Pernetiana Roses is given below — founders
of the race, Persian Yellow and Antoine Ducher,
their first offspring Soleil d'Or : Arthur R. Goodwin
(Pemet-Ducher), Beautfi de Lyon (Pernet-Ducher),
Cissie Easlea (Pernet-Ducher), Constance Ward
(Pernet-Ducher), Deutschland (Kiese), Entente
Cordiale (Guillot), Gottfried Keller (Dr. Miiller),
Juliet (W. Paul), Johannisfeuer (Turke), Lyon
Rose (Pemet Ducher), Louis Barbier (Barbier),
Louise Catherine Breslau (Pernet-Ducher), Les
Rosati (J. Gravereaux), Mrs. George Beckwith
(Pernet-Ducher), Mme. Edouard Herriot, Mme.
Ruau (J. Gravereaux), Mme. John Crouch (E.
Turbat), Marie Adelaide Grande Duchesse de
Luxembourg (Soupert et Netting), Parkfeuer,
Rayon d'Or (Pemet - Ducher), Rodophile
Gravereaux (Pemet-Ducher), Soleil d' Angers (Ch.
Detriche), Viscountess Enfield (Pemet-Ducher)
Willowmere (Pemet - Ducher), Muriel Dickson
(Hugh Dickson), Autumn Tints (B. R. Cant), F.
J. Barry (Piper), and Sonnelicht (Kiese). It will
be interesting to note in which class those Messrs.
McGredy have so successfully infused with Per-
netiana colourings will be placed in the reclassi-
fication now being discussed. E. E. F.
[The foregoing article, by an esteemed lady corre-
spondent, was written before the outbreak of war,
but is particularly applicable now that our Forces
are fighting side by side with those of our French
friends. The husband of our correspondent is
with His Majesty's Army, and we feel sure that
our readers will join with us in wishing him a
safe return. — Ed.]
THE EDITOR'S TABLE.
A Good Early Pear.— Messrs. George Bunyard
and Co., Royal Nurseries, Maidstone, send fruits
of a good early Pear named Michaehnas. This
variety was raised in Gravesend from a seed of
Winter NeUs, and first introduced by Messrs.
Bunyard in 1900. The fruit is rather small,
roundish, and greenish yellow in colour, but the
flesh is white, sweet, of good flavour and melts
very easily. We understand that the trees crop
regularly and freely, and this being so, we anticipate
that Michaelmas will prove one of the most useful
dessert Pears for this season.
A Beautiful Autumn-Flowering Shrub from
Cornwall.— Mr. J. E. Sanders, Green Lane
Nurseries, Redruth, sends flowering sprays of
Escallonia montevidensis. The white blossoms
are borne in fairly large terminal panicles, and at
a short distance look very much like white Lilac.
They have a neat foil of glossy, evergreen foliage.
It would be interesting to leam if this charming
shrub has proved hardy in more northern parts
of the country. Mr. Sanders writes : " I enclose
a few sprays of Escallonia montevidensis. I
thought it would interest you to know that this
is an excellent autumn-flowering species. It has
been in flower for nearly two months, and looks
promising to remain in flower for at least another
month. It also makes a nice specimen. The
plant these flowers were cut from is growing in a
border, and is i; feet high and 8 feet through."
Roses from Essex. — Our esteemed Rose con-
tributor, Mr. W. Easlea, sends from his Danecroft
Nursery', Eastwood, Essex, some very charming
autumn blooms of Rose Mme. Edouard Herriot.
The wonderful flame colour is particularly good
in these blooms, cut on October i, whUe they
possess almost as much substance of petal as
those that open early in the year. Mr. Easlea,
500
THE GARDEN.
[October io, 1914.
in writing, states that the plants are as vigorous
as those of Caroline Testout. He also sends a
specimen of a new Rose of his own raising named
Oraoenta. This is a charming shade of shell
pink, and the large flower is of excellent, conical
form. In addition it emits a delightful and
powerful fragrance, so that it should be a great
favourite when better known.
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
Every departmenl of horticulture is represented in The
Garden, and the Editor invitee readers to send in questions
relating to matters upon which they wish expert advice.
The Editor ivelcomes pliotograpJis, articles and notes,
but he will not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will he taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.
As regards photographs, if payment he desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood thai only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will he treated with.
The Editor zvill not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions ivhich he may not he able to use, a?id
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.
"" * :; 20, Tavistock StreM, Covent Garden, W.C.
ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor endeavours
1 1 make The Garden help/id to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object makes a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of Tee Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. Tfie name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher.
tlic crowns not to become frozen. Not that this would
injure them, but it is e.xpedient not to incur the risk
of both expansion and contraction. Guard aftainst anv
injur}' by voIe.=: (sometimes called water-rats) by placing
a ring of galvanised wire around the tank or pond. In
the spring — about tlie end of April — look to their condition,
and, if the plants need larger baskets, place tliem in such.
In any case, give them a top-dressing of good loamy
soil, leaf-mould and road grit. Press this down flrmly,
and at the same time see that the rhizomes, if not flrmly
established, are well secured. Another way of keeping
Water Lilies through the winter is to take them out of the
water and cover them with leaves, so that they are not
frozen. This will give sufficient moisture, as a rule ;
but should the leaves become dry. give them a good water-
ing. As recommended for plants in water, g\iard against
the vole and also the rat.
FLOWER GARDEN.
VIOLET-COLOURED VERBENA (M. £. Qladstone).—
i'he one variety most likely to meet your requirements
IS that known as Ijovely Blue, which in one garden of our
acquaintance is bedded out in its thousands. Not only
is it excellent in colour, but it is also highly fragrant, o"f
good constitution and free in flowering. It was raised,
or introduced, we beUeve, by Messrs. Keynes, WilUams
and Co., Salisbury, and you might obtain flowers from
that firm to give you an idea of its colour. They might
also submit flowers of others of a similar hue. Godetias
usually come true from seed, and there should be no
difficulty whatever in securing the shade you require.
Sutton's Double Eose and Satin Eose are in the colour
range you name, and these, with others, are offered in
the catalogue of Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Heading.
Moreover, we saw these varieties, with many others in
i-xcellent condition in the seed trial grounds of the firm
named, a few weeks since.
PRIMULA PULVERULENTA lUabel M., Carlisle).—
I'his species is a true perennial and will endure for years.
The best effects are, however, secured when the plant
is raised periodically from seeds, not quite on a biennial
plan, but very near this. The reason is that the seedUngs
surpass in vigoiur, stature and freedom of flowering the
plants raised by means of division or in other ways, and,
if grown in a wet or fully moist position, will attain 4 feet
liigh, flowering in proportion. Moisture, indeed, is
essential to its fullest development, while it is one of the
finest species of a semi-bog-loving nature that we know.
The plant produces seeds in abundance, and these while
fresh vegetate freely and quickly. We have seen self-
sown seedlings springing up in their hundreds at the
base of groups planted near water or in quite moist places.
It is natural for the leaves to turn yellow in autumn
and for the plant to revert almost to a corm in winter.
Such things are, however, influenced by the degree of
dryness or wetness about the plants, and also by the mild-
ness or severity of the winter itself.
WATER LILIES IN BASKETS (E. Moon).— These
should still be kept in the baskets in which they have been
L'rown during the season. Do not, on any account,
ilisturb them at the roots during the dormant season. I
See that they are sufficiently low down in the water for i
TREES AND SHRUBS.
TREATMENT OF TREE LUPINE (Burton).— Yom
Tree Lupine may be pruned a little now, but spring is
a better time. Towards the end of February you may
cut the shoots back fairly bard if you so wish, "and new
branches will be formed towards May ; but if you prune
severely now and the late autumn proves mild, new shoots
may be formed which would be killed in the event of a
severe frost being experienced. Nevertheless, it will
not hurt to remove a few of the outgrowing branches.
CLIMBERS FOR WALLS (IF. M. B.).— The only way
in which you can assist Ivy to cling to your walls is to
nail strips of wood to them, to which the Ivy can
attach itself in its early stages. Of the two, Ampelopsis
muralis is hardier than A. Veitchii, though both are
hardy enough for most parts of this country. There is
also very little to choose between them in the rate of
growth. A. Veitchii is, however, tlie neater plant. Your
Fuchsia may be pruned towards the end of winter, say,
February. As a rule. Fuchsias are not cut into wood
older than one year. That is, the previous year's wood
is pruned back to within a few buds of the base.
PROPAGATING SHRUBS (IT. S.).— The correct time
to projiagate Buddleia variabilis veitchiana and Hydrangea
pauiculata is from June to August, cuttings of soft shoots
being used. These are inserted in pots of sandy soil
in a close and, for preference, slightly heated propagating-
frame. It is possible, however, that if you make cuttings
of ripened shoots 9 inches to 12 inches long and insert,
them outdoors as soon as the leaves fall, they will root
during the winter. The cuttings should be inserted in
a slanting position in well-drained ground, and it is advis-
able to place a little sand at the bottom of each trench
before the cuttings are inserted. Do not disturb such
cuttings for a year. About three inches of each cutting
should be left above the ground, the remainder being
buried.
TREES FOR PLEACHED WALK (R. E. D.).— The
common Lime is one of the best trees to form a pleached
walk, and is used more frequently than any other. Even
though your position is somewhat exposed, we think
you will do better by planting it than by using another
tree, for although the Elm could be employed for the
same purpose, its roots would impoverish the soil in the
vicinity over a greater area than the roots of the Lime.
The trees should bo planted about ten feet apart, and
the front and back growth restricted while the side growth
is allowed to develop. Gradually bend the heads across the
walk until they meet, and when the top and sides are all
clothed with branches, give an annual pruning to prevent
overgrowth. The walk may be made any width you
desire.
THE GREENHOUSE.
FRUITS OF FICUS REPENS {W . F. Dark).— The
fruits of Ficus rcpcns are not usually eaten, and it is
doubtful whether they have any food "value.
SOIL FOR CYCLAMENS (S. J. C.).—A very suitable
compost for potting off young plants is equal parts of
loam and good leaf-mould with a liberal sprinkling of
silver sand. These should be well mixed together, and
if passed through a sieve with a one-third of an inch mesh
the operation of potting will be facilitated. A few broken
crocks must be put in the bottom of each pot for drainage,
and immediately over them a little of the rougher soil
that has not passed through the sieve.
HINTS ON AURICULAS (Auricula).— Yes ; it is advis-
able to repot Auriculas annually, and the best time is
May or early June. This subject was dealt with fully
in our issue of May 9, 1914. A few leaves will decay,
even with the most expert growers, but if each plant is
losing, say, five or six leaves at this time of the year,
something is WTong in the treatment, and it may be,
as you suggest, ovcrwatering or the other extreme. It
would not be for the want of repotting, as the plants
were only recently purchased. If, however, the soil is
in a sour condition or the stem at all loose, we should
not hesitate to repot even now. Good fibrous loam
forms the principal part of Auricula compost, and so far
as our experience goes, the colour does not make a lot
of, if any, difference. Those potted in a peaty mixture
no doubt suffer from drought, and we advise you to leave
out the peat when the time arrives to repot. We know
it is most difficult to properly wafer a collection of
Auriculas when they are repotted in different soils. The
best plan would be to arrange them according to the soil
employed; then you can study each group, and would,
no doubt, obtain much better results. The mixture
you have used should give satisfaction ; but Auriculas,
like most plants, require attention throughout the year.
e-specially in regard to watering and ventilation. No
coddling is needed, and Auricula culture may be summed
up in the word " moderation." At the time" of repotting,
all offsets with three or four small leaves may be removed,
but the usual time is February and -August. We referred
to this matter in our issue of August 8, 1914, and
February 7, 1914, and if these instructions are carried
out, there will be few offsets when the plants are repotted.
Offsets mth no roots can be severed near the main stem,
and then treated as cuttings. Three or four are placed
around the edge of a 3-inch pot, using the ordinary mi.xturc
with a little more sand added. If put in a hand-light
and kept closed for a week or two. they will soon make
roots, when they should be potted off in single pots .
\\Tien repotting old plants, the stem must be' lowered
so that the foliage is near the soil. If the variety is a
choice one and it is desired to increase the stock, lower
the stem to the offsets, otherwise thev can be rubbed off'
and discarded. We do not know of anv chemical that
would kill the aphis without injury to the roots. This
pest is not so harmful as an amateur would imagine ;
but if the frame is vaporised occasionally, a large number
will be killed. -W the time of repotting. Tobacco powder
can be sprinkled among them with fatal results. Methy-
lated spirit may also be used, and no harm will be done
to the roots or plant.
ROSE GARDEN.
YELiOW ROSES FOR COLD GREENHOUSE (Roach).—
We think you will find Melody one of the best to keep its
colour, and for a good deep yellow Lady HillingdoD
should do well, although, being a Tea, it would require
some artificial heat. Herzogin Marie Antoinette has
been very good with us. Perhaps it would be best to
try this also. Sunburst is very apt to produce pale blooms
In the first crop. liather than add lime to your potting
soil, we would suggest some bone-flour at the rate of about
two pounds to a bushel of compost.
RAMBLER ROSE DISEASED (A. J. C.).— The Roses
are attacked by mildew. Try Seride, which can be
obtained from Messrs. Gleeson "and Co., 41, High Street .
Watford. Clematis montana would answer very well
in the position you describe against a south vraW. It is
probable that you will find Escallonia macrantha the
most suitable shrub for your arch. E. langleyensis
would grow more rapidly, but it is of looser habi"t and
not so strictly evergreen. It is, however, a very beautiful
shrub. Both Escallonias give excellent results in Cornwall
ZEPHYRINE DROUHIN AS A WALL ROSE (Mrs'.
Sherrard). — We should not select this beautiful Rose for
a house climber. It will, in the course of five or six year:-
attain a height of 10 feet to 12 feet ; but its best po'sition
is again.st a fence or pole, where it can grow to a height of
6 feet to 8 feet, as it is more inclined to become bushy
than tall. A good wall Kose would be Dr. Rouges. It
is a glorious rich colour, or, if you would like a pale colour.
Climbing White Maman Cochet or Climbing K. A. Victoria
would be fine. Rather than remove the Rose, why not
plant a standard of some good climber close to it, one that
would soon cover the vacant space ? We would suggest
for this purpose Climbing Mrs. W J. Grant, and most
growers can supply such Roses in standard form.
DISEASED ROSE AND CELERY LEAVES {Dr. A. R. W.).
—The Rose leaves are attacked by the Rose black spot,
and the best treatment is to spray the bushes with Bordejiux
mixture from early May onwards at intervals of a fortnight
or three weeks. The cause of the spot is a fungus called
Actinonema rosse, and the spray treatment should be
combined with the destruction of all the diseased foliage
possible. The Celery is attacked by the Celery leaf spot,
due to the fungus Septoria Petroselinii Apii, which has
become so prevalent during the last few years. It is
usually distributed by the seed, and the only thing to
do now is to pick off all the affected parts and" spray the
remainder with Bordeaux mixture. The spraying should
be commenced early next season, and every" endeavour
made to get the seed free from the fungus.
SUBSTITUTE FOR NATURAL MANURE (New Reader).
— We quite appreciate your difficulty in obtaining natural
manure for your new Rose-tieds. In towns, and even
in the country, it becomes increasingly difficult each year
owing to motors displacing horses to so large an extent.
We do not know of any better substitute for adding to
the soil when preparing new beds than Wakeley's Hop
Manure. We have used it extensively for several years
with excellent results. The spent Hops which form its
basis add humus to the soil, and this is particularly neces-
sary and valuable. In addition, the Hops have been
treated with lasting chemical plant food, so that beneficial
results are obtained over a comparatively long inTiod.
You will find this manure advertised in our pages, and
wo advi.sc you, and others similarly situated, to give it
a trial.
ROSES OF GOOD SUBSTANCE (A. P. F. G.).— \Ve
can quite appreciate your desire to plant Roses of pood
substance, especially after a season like the present.
Unfortunately, a number of Roses are wanting in fulness,
and yet in the autumn days they are the most beautiful
and open more readily than the double kinds. You
will find the following good varieties, and they are all
Hybrid Teas, as you desire : Deep red — Florence H.
Veitch, Lieutenant Chaure, General Macarthur, George
Dickson. Liberty and Cliateau do Clos Voiigeot ; pink —
Countess of Shaftesbury, Joseph Hill, ladv Ashtown,
Mme. Abel Chatenay, Mme. Segond Weber and Mrs.
George Shawyer : cream and wliite — Mrs. Arthur Munt,
Ophelia, Molly Sharnmn Crawford, British Queen, May-
flower and Souvenir du Prf-sidente ; yi'llow — Le ProgrSs,
Sunburst, Souvenir de O. Prat, Mrs. Aaron Ward, Melody,
and Herzogin Marie Antoinette.
AT ^iay-
GARDEN.
*^S
-t;.^-
^^^^^
rS-
No. 2239.— Vol. LXXVIII.
October 17, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Our Garden Planning Competition.— it is
with pleasure that we annoimce in this issue
the results of our competition for planning and
planting the little garden. The selection of the
winning designs has involved a considerable
amount of labour, and we hope that those published
this week will be of assistance to our readers
who are contemplating the alteration of their
gardens or the planning of new ones. Next week
we shall publish more of the prize designs, with
explanatory notes and criticisms of their respec-
tive features. We feel sure that our readers will
agree that the competition has been more
than justified by the results achieved.
War Fund Fruit Sale at Covent
Garden. — Fruit sales are common enough at
Covent Garden, but on Wednesday, October
7, a sale took place the like of which even
the oldest salesman had never seen before.
A remarkably fine lot of British and foreign
fruit had been gathered together — gifts from
growers, merchants and private people — and
the spacious hall was crowded to its utmost
capacity with people who appeared eager to
spend as much money as they possibly could,
the sole object being to swell the Relief
Funds, which benefited to the extent of
£310 i8s. 6d. The keenest business men in
the market made the bidding, and ran up
prices to many times the actual value of
the lots, and frequently, when lots were
knocked down, the purchaser would call out to
the auctioneer to " sell them again." The
crowning lot of all was one large Peasgood's
Nonsuch Apple, which weighed 300Z. The
first bid was £5, but the grand figure of £55
was reached in a few minutes, the pur-
chasers being Messrs. Adam and Co., Bond
Street, Fifty-five shUlLngs for a dozen Peaches,
£3 15s. for three Pumpkins, £4 5s. for eigh-
teen Apples, and 5 guineas for a basket of
mixed fruit were among the average prices
realised, and, when everything .else was
sold, the auctioneer offered his hammer,
which brought in another 5 guineas.
Apples in America. — The Apple crop in the
Montana, Idaho, Washington, Oregon and Cali-
fornia districts, according to the United States
Department of Agriculture, is estimated at
18,600,000 bushels, but the Fruit Exchange and
papers claim that the production will not exceed
10,700,000 bushels. The prices are very low
compared with last year, Jonathan Apples
being bought from the grower at 3s. id. per bushel,
while last year the same two first grades were
worth 5s. 2d. per bushel.
Royal Horticultural Society's Exhibitions.—
The Rev. W. Wilks informs us that unless some
exceptional crisis occurs, the exhibitions of
the society will be continued in the Royal
Horticultural Society's Hall at Vincent
Square, and the year's programme, as it
appears in the Book of Arrangements for 1914,
be completed.
A Good Single Dahlia.— One of the best
single Dahlias for bedding is named Little
Othello. This has a fine, branching habit,
and flowers very freely over a long period.
A BOWL OF HYACINTHS GROWING IN FIBRE,
The blooms are not over - large and bright
scarlet in colour, the dark, bronze green
foliage making an excellent foil for the flowers.
It is worth making a note of for planting
next spring.
Rose Mrs. A. R. Waddell in Autumn. —
Although the flowers of this charming Rose come
nearly white during the hot days of summer,
they are particularly charming in the autumn,
when they are freely produced by established
plants. .At this season they come a beautiful
shade of rich apricot yellow, and are worth growing
for their colour alone. The bushes are moderately
vigorous and not over-addicted to mildew. This
Rose was raised by M. Pemet-DucheT and sent
out in 1908.
Flower-Beds for the Spring. — Now that the
time for planting beds for spring effects is with
us, we would draw the attention of our readers
to the article on this subject which appears on
page 503. This is written by Mr. J. B. Stevenson,
the head-gardener to the Bournemouth Corpora-
tion. Visitors to that Southern resort will re-
member the beautiful effects obtained by
Mr. Stevenson in the Chine Gardens
and many other open spaces, where the
flower-beds, both in the spring and
summer, are generally admitted to be
among the finest in the coimtry. In
our next issue we hope to publish details
of the arrangement of the plants by Mr.
Stevenson.
Belladonna Lilies and Zephyranthes
Candida. — One of the most charming
features at Kew just now is a long, narrow
border, under the south wall of House
No. I, that is filled with the Belladonna
Lily, Amaryllis Belladonna, and edged with
a double row of Zephyranthes Candida.
The pink flowers of the Belladonna Lilies
are particularly good, and harmonise well
with the white blooms of the Zephyr-
anthes. The green. Rush-like foliage of the
latter makes an excellent foil for both, and
does away to some extent with the bareness
that would otherwise prevail on account
of the natural absence of the Amaryllis
foliage at this season.
Hyacinths in Glazed Bowls. — The illustra-
tion on this page serves to remind us that it
is quite time that all bulbs to be groNvn in
glazed bowls filled with fibi'e should be
put in without further delay. The process,
which is really very simple, has been so
often dealt with in detail in our pages that
it is not necessary now to say much about
it. The fibre should be nicely wet, not sodden,
and the bulbs placed so that they nearly, but not
quite, touch each other. When completed, the
" nose " of each ought to be showing just above
the surface of the fibre. Although large bedding
Hyacinths are so often used, we prefer the more
graceful miniature set, bulbs of which can be
purchased from any of our advertisers. Daffodils,
Tulips, Snowdrops, Crocuses, Fritillaries and,
indeed, almost any kind of bulb can also be grown
in bowls of fibre.
502
THE GARDEN.
[October 17, 1914-
CORRESPONDENCE.
(The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
Recipe for Green Tomato Pickle. — Place two
and a-half pounds of sliced green Tomatoes in a
jar, and sprinkle salt over each layer of slices ;
let them remain twelve hours, drain off the salt
water, and pour over them as much vinegar as
will cover them. Add a quarter of a pound of
bro%vn sugar, one-eighth of bruised ginger, one-
eighth of cloves, one-eighth of mustard seed and
a quarter of a teaspoonful of dried chillies. Simmer
all together till the Tomatoes are quite soft, then
bottle and cork well, and keep in a cool place.
Recipe for ripe Tomato chutney : One pound of
moist sugar, one ounce of ground ginger, half an
ounce of salt, half a pound of raisins, two cloves,
two large Onions, two pounds of Apples, one
pound of Tomatoes, one-eighth of cayenne pepper
and one and a-half pints of vinegar. Peel and
chop" Onions and Apples, stone raisins and chop
mostly planted as reserves in order to obtain, if
possible, healthy cuttings. To my surprise these,
in the varieties George Home. Crimson Gem and
Mrs. F. Fulford, have flowered profusely ; the spikes
are most handsome and no disease is apparent.
I obtained a good stock of cuttings, too, and I
have recently lifted all the best plants — there was
not space available for all — which had previously
been topped. Nice balls of soil were secured to
the plants, and they were closely arranged in
cutting-boxes. In the meantime, and until severe
weather indicates the wisdom of housing them,
they are standing in a sheltered position out of
doors. They are wintered in a slightly warm
structure. The cuttings root with the greatest
facility in a propagating-pit. — R. P. Brotherston.
Kniphofla caulescens. — ^There are one or
two species of Kniphofias that differ from the
majority by their caulescent habit. One of the
most distinct of these is Kniphofia caulescens,
with its large rosettes of glaucous foliage, which
are borne on stems often 3 feet from the ground,
until their weight pulls them over, when they
KNIPHOFIA CAULESCENS IN THE CAMBRIDGE BOTANIC GARDEN.
fine, skin Tomatoes ; mix all ingredients together
and boil until tender ; time, about two and a-half
hours ; quantity, si.x pounds. — R. A. Carter.
The Rocl£ Garden in Late Autumn. — I saw
in your issue of The Garden for October 3 a
paragraph on flowering plants in the rock garden
at Kew, and I think you may be interested in the
following list of plants now flowering in my rock
garden here, which is situated 900 feet above
sea-level, in peat soil, and made in October, 1913 :
Violas (mauve and white), Aubrietias (purple,
mauve and Fire King), Phlox amcena, Saxifraga
aizoides rubens, Helianthemums (rose, scarlet and
white), Veronica rupestris. Verbena, Sedum
pulchellum, Achillea Kellereri, Primula cash-
meriana, Sempervivum Fauconettii,Thymus alpinus,
Calamintha and Crocus speciosus Aitchisonii. —
(Mrs.) LoRNA WiLSONE, Hticcaby House, Prince-
tovm, South Devon.
A Note on Pentstemons. — During a very
long period I have had great difficulty in keeping
named Pentstemons, the plants becoming diseased
throughout the flowering stage, and shoots for
cuttings failing to be produced. In spring I
rooted a large number of shoots provided by old
plants preserved over the winter, and these were
root along the stem, the crowns again commence
to grow up, and in this way they soon form a
large mass. Though less brilMant than most
of the other Flame Flowers, it is quite an attractive
plant with its glaucous, blue-grey foliage, which
is ornamental the whole year through, while in
June it produces on scapes, from 4 feet to 5 feet
high, dense heads of flowers 12 inches to 18 inches
in length, which are reddish salmon in their early
stage, the flowers when fully expanded gradually
becoming white, tinged with greenish yellow, and
producing an effective contrast. It is a native
of South Africa, whence it is said to have been
introduced in 1862 from the Stormbergen
Mountains. Seeds are produced quite freely, but,
like those of many other liliaceous plants, should
be sown as soon as ripe, while suckers or offsets
root freely if taken off and put in sand in a cool
frame early in the autumn or in the spring. —
F. G. Preston, Cambridge Botanic Garden.
Pickled Mushrooms. — Mrs. Hobden's recipe :
With a piece of coarse flannel and salt rub each
Mushroom well (which must be buttons) ; then
thoroughly dry them, put them in a saucepan
(with a sprinkling of salt to make the juice run)
over a slow fire. Let them simmer until the
juice is gone again, but not dried up. Then pour
on enough vinegar to cover them, with a little
mace, peppercorns and a little cayerme pepper
if preferred ; make them boil about three minutes ;
then turn out and cover.- — Anne Amateur.
A Heavy Crop of Melons. — The following
may interest your readers: Si.\ty-one Melons,
weighing altogether lojlb., were grown in a cold
frame (four-light). The plants were raised from
seed of Sutton's Ai and Emerald Gem, and were
grown by Mr. Watkins, gardener to Dr. and Mrs.
Armstrong- Jones, Plfis Dinas, Carnarvon, North
Wales.— C. W.
Royal Horticultural Society's Fruit Show. —
It was with very great regret that the Council
were compelled to abandon the British-grown
Fruit Show fixed for September 29, but the military
were then in occupation of the hall, and no
other suitable hall could be discovered which
was not similarly occupied. The Coimcil have
now received an assurance that their hall
will not be further taken over except under
pressure of some altogether unexpected and
grave crisis in affairs, so that we may now
with a fair amount of confidence resume our
regular meetings and shows. It is now too late
to attempt to reorganise the whole of the fruit
show according to the published schedule, but
imder the peculiar circumstances the Council
think it a good opportimity to draw attention
to the more definitely late-keeping varieties of
British hardy fruit. They therefore specially
invite exhibits of such, both as collections and as
single dishes, on Tuesday, December i. No
schedule will be issued, but the Council will
make such awards as they think fit. They are
anxious to utilise this opportunity of laying stress
on the really and naturally late-keeping varieties,
and, consequently, will not look with favour on
earlier varieties, either artificially or with great
and exceptional care, kept back out of season. —
W. WiLKS, Secretary.
Belladonna Lilies in Ireland. — We have grown
these fur many years, but 1 think this has been a
record season for flowering. On a patch of ground in
a very dry border, and less than two yards square, a
group of plants has produced eighty flower-spikes,
carrying from six to seven blooms on each, almost
all of which are now fully expanded and a sight not
easily forgotten. The flowers vary from almost pure
white to a reddish hue. They flourish in a rich, deep,
sandy soil, and the best time to plant a stock is
June. They should not be again disturbed for years,
and will ultimately establish themselves and produce
masses of blossom. All that is necessary in the
growing season is to give them a few good water-
ings of clear water and an occasional watering with
liquid manure. The leaves and flowers do not
come together ; the former are produced in the
early spring, and should be in some way pro-
tected from frost, as they are not quite hardy.
We had a fresh supply of bulbs of this Lily
given us by the late Lord Wolselcy, who brought
them from South Africa. They differ slightly
from those we have previously grov\Ti, and have
bloomed equally as well, the colour of the flowers
being of a deeper shade of pink and somewhat
smaller. All the leading botanists agree that
Amaryllis Belladonna was introduced into the
British Isles from the West Indies in 1712, and it
is very probable that it was brought from England
to the Cape of Good Hope, but we have no
authentic information as to its being ever foimd
growing naturally there.— Samuel Bryan, The
Gardens, Fortfleld House, Terenure, County Dublin.
October 17, 1914]
THE GARDEN.
503
SOME HINTS ON SPRING
BEDDING.
THE planting of spring-flowering plants
in beds and borders is becoming more
fashionable each year. From the
numerous enquiries I receive respect-
ing the various plants used in the
public gardens here, and bow they are
prepared and planted, I think a short article on the
subject in your valuable paper would be accept-
able. The variety of plants and bulbs used here
is not very large. The aim has been to use only
such plants as are easily produced in quantity
and the cheaper varieties of Tulips, Hyacinths and
Narcissi. The following are the principal plants I
use, viz., Wallfiowers, Polyanthuses, Daisies,
Myosotis, Pansies and Violas, Alyssum, Aubrietias
and double Arabis.
Wallflowers are grown from seed sown in drills
I foot apart at the end of April or the first week
in May. I may state that the soil is light, and,
previous to sowing the seed, the ground is trod
firmly and raked with a wooden rake. The young
seedlings are above the ground in a few days, and
the Dutch hoe is freely used until they are ready
for transplanting. During June the ground is
dug in readiness for their reception, only a small
quantity of manure being used. Lime and wood
ashes are added when necessary. When the plants
are 4 inches to 6 inches high, the prepared ground
is harrowed with a small harrow, rolled with a
light roller, and again harrowed. Firm ground,
with the use of soot and lime, is the best antidote
for the prevention of club-root. The plants are
put in rows i foot apart and 6 inches from plant to
plant. If the weather is dry, they are given a
good watering (there is no waiting for rain). The
Dutch hoe is freely used ; and they make large
bushy plants by the middle of October.
Polyanthuses are raised from seed sown in
boxes in February and placed in a cold frame. As
soon as the seedlings are large enough, they are
pricked out in other boxes and stood outside, and
afterwards planted in rows similarly to Wallflowers.
As Polyanthuses are gross feeders, a heavier
dressing of manure is given where they are planted.
Daisies. — ^These are sown in June in boxes,
placed in a cold frame, pricked off in other boxes,
and afterwards planted in beds 4 feet wide and
6 inches from plant to plant.
Hyosotis is sown in July on a shady border,
and afterwards planted out in rows 9 inches
wide and 6 inches apart in the row. In sowing
the seed of Myosotis, care should be taken not to
cover it too deeply. Scatter the seed thinly,
beat the bed with the back of a shovel or spade,
and give a very slight sprinkling of fiue sifted soil.
Pansies and Violas are grown from seed sown
early in Jime. Treated in the same way as Daisies,
they are in flower when planted out in their
permanent quarters in October.
Alyssum is also gro-ivn from seed sown in boxes
in March. When large enough the seedlings are
pricked off in other boxes and afterwards planted
in rows the same as Polyanthuses. These make
fine plants by October.
Aubrietias are grown from division in March
and August. In March store plants are lifted,
their long roots shortened and divided into pieces
of several shoots each, and planted in rows i foot
apart and 6 inches from plant to plant. A few
weeks later the rows of plants are well trodden with
the foot on each side. The plants soon grow away
and are usually in fine flower in June. In July
the tops are cut off with sheep shears, leaving them
2 inches to 3 inches high. These soon break out
and make fijie bushy plants, 6 inches to 8 inches
through, by October. Those divided in August
are the plants taken from the flower-beds in June.
Before lifting, the tops are cut off, as above.
After lifting, the roots are well cut back and the
plants laid thicldy in rows in a shady place. By
the end of July these have broken out nicely,
and are then divided and planted out in nursery
beds in a similar way to Daisies. These also make
fine plants, but not so large as those divided in
March. Aubrietias can also be grown from seed,
but they seldom come true ; nevertheless, they
make a nice bed, if not so uniform. Sow the seed
in boxes in April and treat in a similar way to
Pansies and Violas, and the result will be good
plants at the same time as those from division.
Double Arabis is grown from cuttings put in
boxes in July and placed in a frame, kept moist
and shaded, and afterwards planted out in rows
like Myosotis. The cuttings are taken from reserve
plants that have been cut down close to the groimd
after flowering. The young growths, about three
inches long, are used as cuttings. Good plants
can also be grown from pieces of the old plants
dibbled in in rows on a shady border in July.
J. B. Stevenson.
Ckine Gardens, Bournemouth.
{To be continued.)
SWEET PEA GROWING
CONSIDERED.
" The best laid schemes 0' mice and men
Gang aft agley."
TO-DAY should have been spent at a
Dahlia show, but the war has caused
it to be cancelled, therefore I have
seized the opportunity for a day's
recuperation and enjoyment in the
glories of a garden. And what a
perfect day it is I An azure sky dotted with
fleecy clouds, a softly sighing south wind and a
brilliant sky belie the calendar ; while the lawn,
transformed by the recent showers, and the
Rose-beds still rich in abundance of beautiful
flowers, combine to delude one that it is a June
day. Close by one hears the hiun of bees working
among the Honeysuckle and Jasmine on the
archways ; and why does a fully painted Admiral
butterfly need to settle beside one and turn one's
mind to other scenes where war and not peace
reigns ? Yet as one's gaze wanders to a few clumps
of Sweet Peas still carrying a few blossoms, one
turns from dreams to realities. Will all be well
with our favourite ? Will people become too
economical and neglect their gardens and forget
that business must be carried on as usual ? With
such thoughts breaking in upon my musings I
cannot resist taking my pen, and I hope these
few words will exhort those Sweet Pea lovers
who know the worth of their favourite to send
immediately to the seedsman an order, and, as
far as possible, to accompany that order with a
settlement of all former accounts, for it is only
by these means that business can be carried on
through the troublesome days that lie before us.
The war will affect everyone, but each can do his
share to co-operate with his brother that we
suffer together, and later on we shall also reap
the harvest of Peace together. Before, however,
I introduce you to my best friends, I would tell
you especially that if you do not appreciate Sweet
Peas as you should, you are missing so very much
that helps to make the joys of life richer and more
abundant.
It may be that the war will continue for many
months, and the toll of brave fellows it will take
will undoubtedly be heavy. Consider, then,
the amount of pleasmre you will be able to give
those sufferers if you can supply them with
abundance of flowers. The study and contempla-
tion of the beautiful in any of its manifold forms
is always an absorbing interest, but when beauty
is materialised in a bunch of Sweet Peas, then it
becomes, beyond measure, more fascinating.
We also know that every beautiful thing transmits,
by a marvellously subtle power, its influence
all around ; so to those who are seeking some
small way of helping their country I suggest that
they maintain their gardens as before, and, if
possible, grow more Sweet Peas, for no flower
has a greater charm nor a more benign influence.
Of course, to attain personally this admiration
for and love of Sweet Peas, it goes without saying
that one must be thoroughly acquainted with
the different varieties individually, and this is
impossible until you have grown them more or
less indifferently, have experienced the shocks
of keen disappointment, and likewise have tasted
the ecstatic thrills of success. And it is this
which makes Sweet Pea growing so wholesome
and energising, physically and morally. You
cannot grow Sweet Peas without trouble, and the
fascinating expectancy which compels one to
get up " with the lark " to see whether one's
efforts have been crowned with success ever
urges one onwards to greater heights. There
is, therefore, no finality in Sweet Pea growing.
Having succeeded with one variety we select
another, and each year brings a new friend to
be cherished and firmly established in our affec-
tions. Thus grows the boundaries of the heart,
until the whole world of flowers is enthroned
and beauty envelops us on every side.
Yet there is a risk in Sweet Pea growing, and
the risk is that it may so enthral us that we chafe
at the winter frosts which destroy our favourites
out of doors. But this is a risk to be approved
and fostered, as the Sweet Pea is so amenable
to all kind culture that it will floiurish under
glass at Christmas and onwards, and, combined
with the winter-flowering varieties that are now
being put upon the market, a perpetual supply
of flowers all the year can be maintained.
I hope I have said enough to convince all readers
of the intrinsic value of the Sweet Pea, and for
those who have not yet fallen under the yoke and
thraldom of the Queen of Annuals I add a few
words of cultural guidance.
Seed. — -It is essential that seed be procured
from a firm of established repute. Unfortunately,
the " boom" in Sweet Peas created many " jerry
growers," whose one aim was to get rich quickly,
and they foisted on the market such " mixtures "
which well-nigh destroyed the faith of many.
Firms whose advertisements appear in The
Garden can be relied upon, and an order, with
remittance, should be posted without delay to
the one selected. In choosing varieties, whose
name is legion, the beginner should be guided
either by the seedsman or some Sweet Pea lover
504
THE GARDEN.
[October 17, 1914
who knows what is best. I suggest the following
to one who intends growing for a plentiful supply
of decorative blossoms : Etta Dyke or King
White, Maud Holmes, R. F. Felton, Rosabelle,
Lavender George Herbert, Elsie Herbert, Lord
Nelson Spencer, King Manoel, Hercules, Elfrida
Pearson, Mrs, Cuthbertson and Margaret Atlee.
Undoubtedly the pinks are the most popular,
and I have excluded all salmon and fancy varieties,
as I do not consider them (beautiful as they
are) suitab'e for garden decorative display.
SOME RECENTLY INTRO-
DUCED SWEET-SCENTED
ROSES.
(Cmitinucd from page 492.)
WISTARIA CHINENSIS GROWING OVER A GRANARY.
In former notes I have dealt fully with the
advantages of autumn sowing and the need for
deep cultivation of the soil, but I would add that,
for ordinary purposes. Sweet Peas will thrive well
if given fair conditions and ordinary culture.
For exhibition flowers rich soil is necessary, but
everyone can grow good Sweet Peas if he learns
to love them and give them ordinary care. A
little too much attention has been given to the
Sweet Pea from the exhibition standpoint, and
while not lessening in a single degree the value
of the Sweet Pea as an exhibition flower, yet one
would like to emphasise the fact that the Sweet
Pea is essentially a garden decorative flower, and
as such cannot be excelled by any other. In
the future, when so much joy may possibly be
the outcome of a bunch of Sweet Peas, this will
be lacking if the ordering and planting of seeds
is not done as usual. The war necessitates the
curtailing of luxuries, but the supply of the garden
is no luxiu^, rather a necessity. Let us each
look ahead and see the ultimate issue of Right
over Might, and contribute our share by main-
taining a full and plenteous garden. S. M. Crow.
Alice de Rothschild (1910) is a good yellow
Tea Rose with something of the Marshal Niel
colour and scent.
Claudius (1910), a gold medal Rose, is of
moderate, rather stumpy growth, with large
flowers of bright rose
colour and of true Rose
scent.
Mrs. H. E. Coxhead
(1910), a gold medal Rose,
though of fine form and
delicious fragrance, is of
such a dull magenta red
shade that a standard or
two is as much as one
cares to have of it in the
garden. Sometimes i n
October or November the
buds come a brighter
coloiu:.
Lady Hillingdon and
Mrs. Foley Hobbs (both
introduced in 1910) have
quickly made their way
into our gardens, the one
for the sake of its deep
orange flowers and ruddy
foliage, the other for its
occasionally perfectly
shaped ivory white blooms
so useful to the ex-
hibitor. Both have a very
delicate and pleasant Tea
scent.
Rayon d'Or (1910), tte
wonderful yellow Rose of
M. Peniet-Ducher's, has a
very pleasing fragrance,
reminiscent of ripe
Apricots.
The year 1911 produced
several fragrant Roses.
Desdemona. — Deep
pink. .A strong grower.
Edward Mawley. — A
gold medal Rose. Rich crimson, shaded blackish
scarlet. Might be a good doer where it can be kept
free of black spot, to which it seems specially prone.
Elizabeth. — Another pink Rose of more refined
shape than Desdemona.
Florence Haswell Veitch. — A vigorous grower,
doing well as a dwarf pillar. It has good dark
green foliage and well-shaped scarlet- crimson
flowers.
Mrs. Edward Powell. — A delightful bedding
Rose of vigorous, upright habit, splendid metallic-
hued foliage, and very bright red, sweet-scented
blooms. The fragrance of Mrs. E. PauU is quite
distinct, very decided, and though not so sweet
as that of Richmond, is most refreshing.
The year 1912 appears to have added only one
Rose to my list, and that is
George Dickson, a very strong-growing Hybrid
Tea. In many respects it is more like a Hybrid
Perpetual. It has massive, fragrant blooms of
velvety crimson, often marked with a splash of
white. Unfortimately, it is rather apt to hang
its head, very apt to be attacked by mildew,
and is not free in the autumn.
The last two varieties I have noticed as being
specially fragrant are Mrs. Andrew Carnegie
and H. E. Richardson. They are 1913 Roses,
and so, unlike the others I have mentioned, have
not been grown in my own garden, but I have
seen and smelt them at a good many shows.
Mrs. Andrew Carnegie, a gold medal Rose,
is an exhibition Rose only, I fear. Its huge
lemon yellow blooms are made up of masses of
thin petals, which I feel sure would not stand much
" weather." It was called, when first shown,
the sweet-scented Frau Karl Druschki, and it
will probably be disappointing to many to find
that it has not Frau Karl Druschki's vigour and
rain-resisting qualities.
H. E. Richardson, a deep crimson Rose, was
well shown at the National Rose Society's autumn
show last September. If I remember rightly, a
market basket was filled with its deliciously
fragrant blooms. I was told that it is disappoint-
ing in the garden, but the colour was so good
and the scent so surpassingly sweet that when
it can be bought for a couple of shillings it will
be well worth trying by those who, like myself,
look upon fragrance as one of the most endearing
qualities of the Rose. White Lady.
SOME GOOD ROSES FOR
HEDGES.
IN recent years there has been an increasing
demand for Roses of vigorous habit suit-
able for growing as low, informal hedges.
In many good gardens now it is usual to
find a hedge of this kind forming a boundary
to the Rose garden or a dividing line
between kitchen and flower gardens, and when
suitably placed and the right varieties selected,
few features are capable of providing such pleasing
and harmonious results. The Sweet Briars and
the Hybrid Penzance Briars have for a long time
been used for this purpose, almost to the exclusion
of other varieties, and, beautiful and suitable as
they are, these single-flowered fugacious kinds do
not meet everyone's requirements. There are a
good many large-flowered Roses well adapted for
planting as informal hedges. One of the best,
and one that is not grown half so much as it ought
to be, is the Thomless Rose, Zephyrine Drouhin.
It quickly forms a tall bush or small pillar, and
flowers freely, both in summer and autumn, its
deliciously fragrant blossoms possessing a charming
shade of bright rose pink such as we get in no other
variety.
A small hedge that I planted three years ago is
composed of Griiss an Teplitz and Gloire de Dijon.
The bushes arc now over 6 feet high, although
when planted they were pruned within a few inches
of the soil. The varieties were planted alternately,
about fifteen inches apart, and from the end of
May luitil well into November are never without
flowers. Apart from the beautiful effect in the
garden, this hedge yielded an abundance of good
blooms for cutting. Although Gloire de Dijon
is a Tea Rose, it is quite hardy, is one of the
earliest to start flowering and almost the last to
finish. These attributes and its delicious Tea scent
more than outweigh the faulty shape of many of
the blossoms, a drawback that condemns it in the
eyes of many ardent rosarians. Griiss an Teplitz,
with its large bunches of scarlet, fragrant flowers,
is too well known and appreciated to need further
comment. J. B. Clark, with large crimson
October 17, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
605
flowers ; Loiigworth Rambler, bright cerise ;
Warrior, crimson scarlet ; W. A. Richardson,
apricot yellow ; Gustave Regis, nankeen ; Mme.
Isaac Pereire, a fine old, sweetly scented Bourbon
Rose of pink shade ; Conrad F. Meyer, soft pink,
very large flowers ; and Blanc Double de Coubert,
white, are a tew other more or less large-flowered
Roses that might with advantage be used for
hedges such as we now have under notice.
These hedges are by no means difficult to manage,
but it certainly pays to thoroughly prepare the
soil before planting. Deep cultivation, thorough
manuring with good farmyard manure, and a
handful of bone-meal mixed in the top 6 inches
for every bush, will result in rapid yet sturdy
growth that will form a perfect screen in two years.
With some of the very strong-growing varieties,
such as Gloire de Dijon and Conrad F. Meyer,
it is often necessary to put in a few short, stout
stakes, and then bend over the longest rods and
tie the ends to the stakes. This induces the side
buds to burst freely, and a bountiful supply of
flowers is ensured. So far as pruning is concerned,
the less done in reason the better, except when the
bushes are newly planted, when they should be
cut almost to the ground level. When established,
the cutting away, close to the soil, of some of the
oldest wood each year induces the formation of
sturdy new rods that keep the bushes in good con-
dition. H.
FLOWERING CLIMBERS
OVER FARM BUILDINGS.
(Wistaria chinensis and Clematis Montana.)
IT is not imtil Wistaria chinensis attains a good
age that it flowers in the greatest profusion,
and it is when growing over old buildings
that it is seen to advantage, for the atmo-
sphere of age enhances its beauty in no small
degree. Happily, the Wistaria presents no
great difficulties in cultivation. It shows a prefer-
ence for a deep, loamy soil and a sunny wall, and
when once established it grows freely and flowers
abundantly. Occasionally in this country it pro-
duces seeds, and these are borne in pods resembling
Kidney Beans. Sowing seeds is a slow and
uncertain method of raising plants, and the mode
of propagation usually adopted is to layer the
growths produced near to the base of the plants.
Layering is best done in the summer, after the
flowers are over.
Clematis montana is another beautiful climber,
equally at home on the roof of an old building.
Both climbers flower at the same time, and they
are unsurpassed for beauty and effect. The two
accompanying pictures were taken at Summer
Farm, West Clandon, early in June. The Wistaria
is seen growing over a disused granary, while the
Mountain Clematis looks very picturesque flowering
in almost wild profusion on the roof of an old barn
against the dense background of fine old Elm trees.
Considering the ease with which Clematis montana
may be grown in this country, it might almost be
imagined to be a native of Britain, instead of
which it was introduced from Nepaul in 1831.
It is a capital subject for growing over balconies
and porchways, and it looks very effective if allowed
to ramble at will over Pine trees, when the light
star-like flowers are shown up in marked contrast
to the dark foliage of the conifers. This Clematis
does well in almost any position, and is not
in the least fastidious about soil. C. Q,
BULBS
FOR THE
GARDEN.
ROCK
DURING the early spring months, and
L even well into the summer, our
I rock gardens owe not a little of their
r charm and interest to the many
dwarf kinds of bulbous plants that
find a congenial home in the pockets
or bays where a goodly depth of loam or peat
and loam can be provided for their roots to wander
in. Nearly every post now brings catalogues
of bulbs, a sure sign that the planting season
is at hand ; and as a great deal depends upon early
planting, it is proposed to enumerate some at
least of the many kinds suitable for the alpine
garden.
The Scilla family alone provides us with several
gems that cannot be omitted. The Siberian
Squill, Scilla sibirica, with rich blue flowers, and
its white variety are two plants that will thrive
in almost any position where a few inches of good
soil can be lodged. Puschkinia libanotica is a
near relative of these ; it
grows taller and flowers
later, but must be in-
cluded on account of the
quaint china blue markings
on its white petals. Then
we must not forget the
Glory of the Snow,
Chionodoxa Luciliee, wth
pale blue flowers, and the
rich dark blue variety
named sardensis. They
are both easily cultivated,
and seed freely when once
established. Of Anemones
there are a number to
select from. The Wood
Windflower, A. nemerosa,
with its lavender-flowered
variety robinsoniana and
the large-flowered Blue
Bonnet, should have a
partly shaded position and
some decayed leaves in
the soil. Then there is
the Apennine Windflower,
A. apennina, and the
Grecian Windflower, A.
blanda, both with blue
flowers and both ad-
mirably adapted for the
rock garden. The well-
drained places in the rock
garden that can easily be
filled with good soil make
a suitable home for that
most gorgeous of Wind-
flowers, A. fulgens, which,
if protected from north
and east winds, may often be had in flower
at Christmas. It is not a kind plant, however,
and cannot be relied upon to do well, even
under the most favourable conditions. Where
it does grow, however, it usually grows well, and
is worthy of a trial for the sake of its scarlet
blossoms.
Of Crocuses there are a number of species
admirably adapted for the rock garden. To my
mind, the gem of all is Sieberi, with soft lavender
flowers and bright orange stigmata. In a sheltered
comer it begins to flower in January, and continues
for at least a month. Then there is the charming
little C. susiana, with golden yellow flowers quaintly
striped on the outside with maroon. It increases
freely when established if left undisturbed. C.
biflorus, white, with violet markings, and C.
tommasinianus, with soft silvery lavender grey
flowers, are others that certainly ought to be
included. Of hardy Cyclamen suitable for autumn
planting, there are three, viz., C. cilicicum, with
white flowers ; C. Coum, rose-coloured blossoms ;
and C. ibericum, which is similar to C. Coum,
except that the foliage is veined with silver.
These ought to be planted at once, and it is well
to bear in mind that they appreciate decayed
leaves and old mortar in the soil. The Winter
Aconite, Eranthis hyemalis, ought also to have a
corner. It is usually regarded as a common
plant, but if the curious little roots are put in now,
we shall be rewarded in midwinter with flowers of
rich buttercup yellow, each surrounded by a quaint
ruff of green foliage. Snowdrops of several kinds
are available, though, to my mind, none is more
suitable than the common one, Galanthus nivalis.
Of the wild Tulips of other countries, there are
THE MOUNTAIN CLEMATIS (c. MONTANA) VEILING AN OLD BARN^
several beautiful and interesting kinds suitable
for our purpose, the most charming of all being
the Water Lily Tulip, Tulipa kaufmanniana. It
has creamy white flowers with rich yellow centres,
and when fully expanded these resemble miniature
Water Lilies. It needs good soil and a sunny
position. The Persian Tulip, T. persica, which
rarely grows more than 3 inches high, is a gem
for the rock garden ; it has yellow flowers with
golden bronze exteriors. Dog's-tooth Violets
are a fairly large family, and of the common one,
Erythronium Dens-canis, which has purple flowers.
506
THE GARDEN.
[October 17, 1914-
there are a number of varieties, Frans Hals, with
large purple blossoms, and La Neige, white, being
two of the best. They appreciate a partially
shaded position and rather deep planting. E.
califomicum, pale yellow ; E. Heudersonii, pale
lilac, with purple centre ; E. Hartwegii, pale
yellow ; and E. revolutum Johnsonii, rose with
yellow centre, are all beautiful kinds from America.
Dwarf Irises, such as I. Heldreichii, with lavender
and violet flowers ; and I. reticulata, with deep
violet-coloured blossoms that emit a delightful
fragrance, must find a home in the rock garden.
The Grape Hyacinths, or ^Muscaris, are most
useful for creating bold masses of colour, particu-
larly the one known as Heavenly Blue. If planted
freely in good-sized drifts it will make
a picture of gentian blue in sprmg
that will more than repay us for the
slight trouble that planting entails.
Of dwarf Narcissi there are many
kinds, though none is quite so charm-
ing as the dainty little minimus, a
perfect Daffodil of pygmy size and
golden yellow colour. Cyclamineus,
minor, juncifolius, moschatus,
triandrus calathinus and Queen of
Spain are others that ought to be
included. S. X.
is, naturally, the most common of all, and the best
for naturalising in the woodland or grass. It
is a variable species, the best-known variety being
that with double flowers. There is also an extra
large-flowered and strong-growing variety of it
laiown as G. n. Imperati, which is worthy of
inclusion in every garden, though as yet too
choice for naturalising. Another variety of the
common Snowdrop, named G. n. octobrensis,
usually flowers in November, but has a tendency
to die out rather quickly in most soils.
Next in popularity to our common Snowdrop
is the large and beautiful G. Elwesii, a native of
Asia Minor. This, like the common Snowdrop,
is ven,' \'ariable. It differs from the common
THE SNOWDROP.
CF all the flowers that come
^ to us in the early days
I of the year, none is
f more highly appreciated
than the Snowdrop.
The simplicity of its
pure, glistening white blossoms, sway-
ing, sometimes none too gently, in the
cutting winds of winter, appeals to
young and old alike, and it is a
flower that has not, so far as I know,
a single himian enemy. Nor is it one
that has any bad traits, unless the
tendency of the bulbs of such species
as Elwesii to die out under any ex-
cept the most favourable conditions
can be regarded as one. Indeed, the
Snowdrop is one of the easiest of our
hardy plants to cultivate, and will
thrive for several years at least under
the most adverse conditions.
Undoubtedly the most effective
place for this dainty little flower
is the shrubbery, woodland or
grassland, situations where the bulbs
can be allowed to remain undis-
turbed and to multiply and increase
in vigour year after year. There
is a great charm in the contrast between the
massive trunks of Elms and other trees of the
woodland and this delicate-looking, though in
reality hardy, flower that no other grouping,
even that of the shrubbery and grassland, can
give us. In the woodland, too, the dead leaves
are usually allowed to remain on the ground,
there to form miniature drifts that emphasise,
as it were, the purity of the whiteness of the
Snowdrop blooms.
To the uninitiated all Snowdrops appear much
the same, yet there is, on closer investigation,
a good deal of difference between the various
species, many of which are by no means well
known. Our native Snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis,
rendering it quite distinct. It does not, however,
flower so freely in many places as G. nivaUs and
G. Elwesii. There are several other lesser-known
species and a great number of varieties, most
of which are too rare and expensive to allow
of them being generally grown. One of the most
beautiful of these is G. AUenii, which has very
broad, arching leaves and large blossoms. It
needs a warmer position than most other Snow-
drops. For some years past a few enthusiastic
cultivators of these flowers have raised hybrids
by crossing several of the species before named,
but none of these that I have seen surpass
for general utDity and beauty the two species
nivalis and Elwesii.
To ensure the bulbs flowering
well another year, it is essential that
they be well and gradually ripened
after their flowering period is over.
The earUer they are planted now the
better, because the bulbs, being small,
suffer considerably if kept out of the
soil for any considerable time. Most, or
all, of those named can be purchased
from any of the dealers who advertise
bulbs in The Garden. G. S.
THE WATER LILY
TULIP.
T
THE WATER LILY TULIP (TULIPA KAUFMANNIANA) .
THE TIME TO PLANT.
one in having green inner segments and bolder
stature, and owing to the latter feature it is, in
many gardens, taking the place of G. nivalis.
It, however, requires lighter soil and is not so
useful for planting in grass, the bulbs having a
tendency to become blind after they have been
planted a few years. The variety known as
G. E. Cassaba is even more vigorous than
the type, the leaves and flower-stems, when
grown in the rather heavier soil that it seems
to require, frequently attaining a height of
I foot.
The Crimean Snowdrop, G. plicatus, is known
in many gardens in this country, its rather broad
leaves with their plicate or folded back edges
HIS beautiful Tulip is al-
most, if not quite, the
first of its race to open
in spring, the blossoms
in a normal season being
fully developed before
March has departed. It is a delight-
ful Tulip in every respect, and one
can only assume that it is because
it is not well known that it is so
seldom grown. Its botanical name,
under which it is usually listed in
bulb catalogues, is Tulipa kaufmanni-
ana, but owing to the half-opened
flowers closely resembling those of a
miniature Water LUy, it is often
referred to in gardens as the Water
Lily Tulip. The petals are deep
cream at the uppermost parts, the
centre of the flower being rich
golden yellow. Frequently the ex-
terior is striped rich carmine, and
the blossoms are slightly fragrant.
It is not a difficult Tulip to grow,
but the bulbs ought to be planted
comparatively early, i.e., diu"ing Sep-
tember or October, at a depth of
about four inches. As its full beauty is
only revealed when the flowers are partly open, it
should be planted in a position where the sun can
reach it for the greater part of the day. Almost
any good garden soil suits it, except that which is
waterlogged. In addition to the type plant there
is a very beautiful variety named T. kaufmanniana
aurea. As its varietal name indicates, this has
blossoms of rich golden yellow, handsomely
feathered on the exterior with scarlet. At present
it is too rare for general cultivation outdoors, but
it is a charming plant for growing in pots for the
conservatory, the bulbs being potted up in ordinary
potting soil in September or October and treated
in the usual way adopted with other Tulips and
Daffodils grown in pots.
NOW IS
October 17, 1914.]
THE gardp:n.
507
THE LITTLE GARDEN.
RESULTS OF OUR COMPETITION.
AS was no doubt inevitable, the National
Crisis, which was at its height during
August, prevented some of our
k readers who had notified their inten-
^ tion of sending in designs from doing
so before September i, the last day
of entry. The labours of the Judges in examining
the designs received (to the number of about
four hundred) were, however, by no means light,
and w-e now have pleasure in printing their report
and awards.
FOR SITE No. 4.
First Prize of 5 guineas to Mr. John Hatton,
Wentworth Road, I'nur Oaks, Sutton Coldfield.
Second Prize of 2 guineas to Miss Isobel
Harding, Vilinorc Cottage, Petersfield, Hants.
Tliird Prize of 1 guinea to Mr. a. Troyte
Griffith, The Priory Gateway. Malvern.
Book prizes, each to the value of half-a-guinea,
to Mr. Burnett N. K. Orphoot, 25, Qucensferry
WE have examined carefully the designs
in The Garden Competition for
Planning and Planting the Little Garden.
Having taken into account the general conditions
laid down, we make the following awards :
FOR SITE No. 1.
First Prize of 5 guineas to Mr. a. Troyte
Griffith, The Priory Gateway, Malvem.
Second Prize of 2 guineas to Mr. Burnett
N. K. Orphoot. 25, Queensferry Street, Edinburgh.
Third Prize of 1 guinea to Miss Elizabeth
Leonard, 46, Abbot Buildings. Cambridge,
Mass., U.S.A.
Book prizes, each to the value of half-a-guinea,
to Mr. Kenneth Dalgliesh, 165, Fenchurch Street,
E.C. ; Miss L Grant Brown, Castle Hill, Lancaster ;
Miss Isobel R. Harding, Vilmore Cottage, Peters-
field, Hants ; Mr. Archie G. Paton, 44, Apsley
Street, Partick, Glasgow ; Miss B. M. Cory,
9, Elm Grove Road, Ealing, W. ; and Mr. George
LI. Morris, 40, Finsbury Square, E.C.
FOR SITE No. 2.
First Prize of 5 guineas to Mr. George Ll.
Morris, 40, Finsbury Square, E.C.
Second Prize of 2 guineas to Miss 1. Grant
Brown, Castle Hill, Lancaster.
Third Prize of 1 guinea to Mr. Hugh R.
Dixon, 73, Corringham Road, Golders Green, N.W.
Book prizes, each to the value of half-a-guinea,
to Miss Norah Geddes, Outlook Tower, Edin-
burgh ; Mr. Kenneth Dalgliesh, 165, Fenchurch
Street, E,C. ; Mr. H. A. Rowbotham, 3, Onslow
Road, New Maiden. Surrey ; Mr. Walter J. Wills,
139, Barry Road, Dulwich, S.E. ; and Mr. John
A. Weall, Kimberley Road, Borrowash, Derby.
FOR SITE No. 3.
First Prize of 5 guineas to Miss I. Grant
Brown, Castle Hill, Lancaster.
Second Prize of 2 guineas to Miss Elizabeth
Leonard, 46, Abbot Buildings, Cambridge,
Mass., U.S.A.
Third Prize of 1 guinea to Mr. Kenneth
Dalgliesh, 165, Fenchurch Street, E.C.
Book prizes, each to the value of half-a-guinea,
to Mr. G. L. Thornton Sharp, 626, Pender Street,
W., Vancouver, B.C. ; Mr. Hugh Dixon, 73,
Corringham Road, Golders Green, N.W. ; Miss
Norah Geddes, Outlook Tower, Edinburgh ; and
Mr. Ernest J. Biggs, 215, Antrobus Road, Hands-
worth, Birmingham.
ENTRANCE GATE
SITE NO. I. — FIRST PRIZE DESIGN BY
\. TROYTE GRIFFITH.
Street, Edinburgh ; Mr. Hugh Dixon. 73, Corring-
ham Road, Golders Green, N.W. ; Miss L Grant
Brown, Castle Hill, Lancaster; Miss Norah
Geddes, Outlook Tower, Edinburgh ; and Mr.
G. L. Thornton Sharp, 626, Pender Street, W.,
Vancouver, B.C.
A high level of merit is shown in the designs
to which prizes have been awarded, and we have
been impressed by the great care and wide know-
ledge of practical garden problems which have
been exhibited by the competitors.
(Signed) George Dillistoxe.
F. W. Harvey.
P. Morley Horder.
Lawrence Weaver.
S. T. Wright."
Cheques for the twelve cash prizes amounting
to £33 123. have been posted to the successful
competitors, and the winners of the twenty book
prizes have been invited to make their choice
from the Country Life Library of Gardening.
The especial thanks, not only of the Proprietors
of The Garden, but also of the compatitors, are
due to the Judges for the considerab'-e time and
pains which they have devoted to the examination of
the plans and to the consideration of the awards.
The following articles on the prize plans are
contributed by Mr. Lawrence Weaver, Architec-
tural Editor of Country Life ; by Mr. George
Dillistoue ; and by Mr. F. W. Harvey, Editor of
The Garden, three of the five Judges.
NOTES ON THE WINNING
DESIGNS.
Before examinmg the prize-winning designs
in detail, it is worth while drawing attention to
some interesting points about the winners. Thirty-
two prizes in all were offered, and these have been
won by seventeen competitors. The most success-
ful competitor of all is a lady, Miss Grant Brown,
who took one first prize, one second prize, and
two book prizes. Three competitors — Miss Norah
Geddes, Mr. Hugh Dixon and Mr. Kenneth
Dalgliesh — each won three prizes. Miss Geddes is
the daughter of Professor Patrick Geddes, whose
illuminated enthusiasm has done so much for
the art of town planning, with which garden
design is closely allied in principle. Six com-
petitors took prizes for two sites each, and seven
took a single prize. These figures go to show-
to how great an extent quality in design tells,
however much the problem may vary. Twenty-
two prizes went to English readers and six to
Scottish. Ireland and Wales scored nothing. It
is interesting to note that two of the prize-winners
hail from the United States and from Canada
respectively.
Although the competitors were not asked to
give their occupations, there is evidence that
several architects entered, and among them
Mr. Troyte Griffith succeeded in obtaining the
first prize for Site No. i, the small scale of which
made it in some respects the most difficult problem,
and the third prize for Site No. 4, which was the
most ambitious in scope. Mr. G. Ll. Morris was
another architect to win a first prize (for Site No. 2).
508
THE GARDEN.
[October 17, 1914-
For the guidance of unsuccessful competitors,
it is fair to say that their failure to secure prizes
ivas due in the main to two defects of design —
disregard of the relation between house and
garden, and a lack of shapeliness in the
various parts of the garden scheme. Some of
them indulged in curling paths which meander
aimlessly about the site and create shapeless
and useless areas of grass or flower-bed. Others
lacked a sense of scale, and provided long borders
2 feet or 3 feet wide or Rose plots no more than
2 feet square. Others placed what should be the
more private areas of the gardens, where the
owners would wish to sit, in full view of the road.
Some neglected aspects altogether, and others
paid no attention to the specified slope of ground.
A few disregarded limits of cost, and showed
features which would be appropriate only in a
rich man's garden. It is proper to add here
that the Judges did not allow themselves to be
affected in the survey of the designs by the skill
in draughtsmanship which some competitors
showed, but made their awards with sole reference
to the artistic and practical merits of the gardens
themselves. Nevertheless, they were glad to
note that the drawings were unexpectedly clear
in their representation of the designers' ideas
A few of the drawings were accompanied by
very charming perspective sketches, and Mr.
Kenneth Dalgliesh in particular is to be congratu-
lated on the series he submitted, one of which is
now reproduced.
I now pass to the first prize designs. Mr. Troyte
Griffith's scheme for Site No. i achieved its place
by reason of its simplicity and shapeliness. Perhaps
the best feature of it is the splayed arrangement
of hedges on either side of the drawing-room
garden door. From this door there is a view
straight across a simple grass plot to the semi-
circular Yew hedge, with a good flower border
on the north side backed by shrubs, and on the
south side a border of Roses mingled with annuals.
Two Apple trees make a pleasant background
to the bottom hedge, and space is left alongside
for a little plot for herbs or a frame. The cleverest
feature of the design is the way in
which the kitchen window is shut off
from the main garden, but, never-
theless, it is allowed a good view on
to the broad border. Good use is
made of the south side of the house
for wall fruit, and the front garden
is neat. The beds on each side of the
approach path are, however, too sma
and would doubtless be replaced in prac-
tice by borders about threie feet wide.
In the first prize design for Site No. 2, Mr.
George LI. Morris has shorni the clearest possible
appreciation of the relation between the various
parts of the house and the garden. The entrance
forecourt is extremely simple, and relies upon plain
paving and hedges. From the south side of it
there is a little opening to a narrow private garden,
with flower borders on either side of a path which
leads to the main Rose garden. The trades en-
trance gives admission to a long path leading
eastwards past the kitchen door to the vegetable
MORRIS.
garden. From the dining-room there is a channing
view across the Rose garden and sunk lawn to
the distant herb garden, and from the drawing-
room window an equally charming yievc is afforded
under the pergola along a paved walk to the far
pergola and arbour. The pleasure garden is
divided from the orchard and kitchen garden
by a long hedge with curved bays, which are on
the axial lines of the lawn and herb garden and
are pierced with entrances to them. The whole
scheme is so contrived that there will be interesting
views from all the important parts of the garden.
The only criticism which need be made is the
provision of stepping-stones across the sunk lawn.
These are unnecessary, and would make an un-
desirable break in the pleasant surface of the
turf. The use of Golden Privet for all hedges
would tend to monotony.
Miss I. Grant Brown's design for Site No. 3 is
also admirably contrived. The vegetable garden
is placed in direct reference to the kitchen premises,
and is divided from the pleasure garden by a
46 0 —
-FIRST PRIZE DESIGN BY MISS I. GRANT BROWN.
October 17, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
509
Z30 O
""I
I
I
SITE NO. 4.
FIRST PRIZE
DESIGN BY
JOHN HATTON.
From
of the
substantial hedge,
the south window
dining-room there is a plea-
sant view of the flower
garden treated parterre
fashion. Running north and
south, with access from library, drawing-room and
verandah, is a broad paved terrace which makes
the most of the site. The particular feature of
this scheme, ho\vever, is the admirable disposition
of the fruit trees grouped round three sides of a
parallelogram, with a path threading between them.
A practical feature is a frame yard provided at the
south-east corner. Here again the success of the
scheme is the result of the steady consideration of
the garden with reference to the important rooms
of the house.
Mr. John Hatton's design for Site No. 4 is very
good indeed, but cannot be said to be perfect. The
forecourt is not big enough for a motor-car to turn
in, and the beds between the paved Rose garden
and the dining-room are not of good shape. The
triangular form of the site presented manj^ difficul-
ties, and no competitor overcame them all. The
provision of an orchard
to the west of the fore-
court is a charming
feature, as is the little _
Rose garden to the
south of it. The tennis
lawn is rightly placed,
and the little water,' garden in the south corner
employs that space well. The best feature,
from the point of view of design, is the arrange-
ment of the Rose pergola in relation to the
SITE NO. 3. SECOND PRIZE DESIGN BY MISS LEONARD (OF MASSACHUSETTS)
garden door of the drawing-room, and there will
be good vistas from the forecourt and also along
the path running north-east and south-west. The
vegetable garden and the rubbish shoot are well
disposed in relation to the kitchen, and divided by
a hedge from the pleasure garden.
We also illustrate the second prize design sub-
mitted by Miss Leonard (of Cambridge, Jlassachu-
setts) for Site No. 3. This is well and practically
conceived, like all the plans which Miss Leonard
submitted, and the Judges would have been able
to give a higher award but for the unfortimate
position accorded to the practical feature of
a drying yard. In her design this is placed
adjoining a road, and without anything to
screen it from the public. Had it been cut off by
a substantial trellis, there would have been no
objection to this position, as a Grape Vine trellis
and pergola screen it quite satisfactorily from the
main entrance. It may well be that in the United
States there is less squeamishness about the display
of drj'ing linen, but it would not be popular in this
comitry. The vegetable garden and the flower
garden are both practically conceived, and the lawn,
dotted with Apple trees and red Oaks, would be a
very friendly place to sit. This design shows a
good compromise between the modem demand for
rigid formality and the more haphazard disposition
of features which makes the charm of so many
old gardens. L-a.wrence Weaver.
510
THE GARDEN.
[October 17, 1914-
THE LESSONS OF THE
COMPETITION.
The problems set by the competition
were by no means easy. They were, in
effect, to compress within severely re-
stricted areas an epitome of the art, prin-
ciples and practice of garden creation
The plots selected for treatment wet'
barren of anything that could assist in
directing the mind toward any particular
development, and it is with great pleasure
that the Judges testify to the ingenuity
and inventiveness displayed by many of
tlie competitors in creating, out of sucli
slight material, so much di\'ersity of de-
sign and potentially picturesque effects.
It is inevitable, after spending mucli
time in consideration of the large number
of plans submitted, and employing a pro-
cess of elimination of the worst in order
to choose the best, that the tendency of
the Judges' comments is to become
critical as regards all. We therefore
devote our remarks chiefly to the lessons
to be learnt from those points in wh cli
the various schemes fail, rather tlian
from those in which they succeed.
One fact emerges from a consideration
of such a number and variety of ideas a^
to what constitutes the best method oi
arranging a small garden, namely, that
tliere were two classes of competitors
who approached the matter from quite
different standpoints. One class concen- ""
trated their efforts on an arrangement of
paths, fences and a division of the
area into spaces, each allotted for a speriftc
purpose. Generally speaking, they failed to realise
fuUy the fact that a garden is essentially a place
wherein to grow things, and grow them in such a way
that they shall fulfil IVIiss Jekyll's ideal, to " form
beautiful pictures in our gardens." The danger in
thus approaclting the creation of a garden is that it
attaches an infinite importance to the frame and
ignores the picture. The tendency is to produce a
garden which is a mere pattern, all design and no
life, a stonemason's tombstone rather than a
Pygmalion's Galatea.
The other class looked on the problem from tlie
opposite standpoint, namely, that, given certain pro-
vision for growth and adequate planting schemes,
little else mattered. Thesedidnotsufiiciently realise
that they had produced but a poor setting for their
effects. In the result, whereas many plants may be
well grown, they will never be seen to tlie best ad-
vantage, and in a small garden, in particular, a
general sense of untidiness wiU always be in evidence.
the effects of which are tested in the
development of the plan on paper.
Consider for a moment the really ex-
cellent design produced by Mr. G. LI.
Morris for Site No. 2. It is easy to
imagine some delightful effects in a
garden arranged on these lines, but it
would have been interesting to know
e.xactly what he suggests should be
planted in a herb garden to which as
much space is devoted and into which
as much design is introduced as forthe
Rose garden in the same plan. His vision
of this bttle garden, witli its seat placed
to command a view down througli the
orchard, where flowering bulbs sucli as
Crocuses, Tulips, Daffodils, Snowdrops,
Scillas, &c., would doubtlessly be allowed
to brighten the earth in spring, was
really that of a garden of sweet-scented
Ilowers and herbs, with Violets, Mignon-
ette, Lavender, Lemon \'erbena. Night-
scented Stock and Tobacco Plant, each
in their season creating an atmosphere re-
dolent with garden perfumes. .•\nd then,
.Miss Leonard's borders seen from the
drawin.g-room and library. If she had
prepared her planting plans for these,
they would have been masses of cool grey
foliage withla^•ender, pale blue, the palest
of yeUow, cream and pink flowers, with
perhaps a little dark purple used as a foil.
They would have been planted principally
with hardy perennial plants, with spaces
left for spring bulbs, to be succeeded by
annuals. .A.n example of what plants Miss
The duty of the Judges, therefore, resolved itself Leonard would have used for this purpose would have
largelv into selecting those designs that most nearly been full of interest, especially as she would be con-
attained to the ideal when judged from the stand- sidering the matter from the -American point of view,
points the competitors had themselves taken. It will One planting plan by Miss I. Grant Brown
be seen from the published results that the balance (reproduced btlow) is in many ways excellent.
PERSPECTIVE VIEW BY K. DALGLIESH.
was rather in favour of the first class. Due attention
was, however, paid to the second, so tliat adequate
provision was made in the selected plans for success-
She shows a full appreciation of tlie fact that it
is better to group plants in relation to each other
than to use them in serried lines or rigid blocks.
fill cultivation. It was felt that the making of the | Her colour arrangement is generally well thought
garden is in some respects more important than j out. Undoubtedly in the actual planting of these
the planting, especially as the means of the o\\'ner borders some provision would be made for pro-
were assumed to be limited. Obviously, if mistakes longing the flowering period by introducing a
are made anywhere, a garden can be replanted few spring flowering bulbs and summer and autumn
with much greater ease and less expense than it flowering annuals. The edging of Veronica pros-
can be remade. Judged on points, the planting trata is very neat when not in flower and brilliant
schemes were inferior all round to the work pro- when the flowering period arrives ; an added
duced in designing. This is regrettable but not [ interest would, however, follow a little more varied
surprising. It is far more difficult to produce edging. There are innumerable dwarf plants that
satisfactory planting plans than a design based can be used for this purpose that have a longer
on certain principles, which, once grasped, reduce flowering period. George Dillistone.
the task to an arrangement of lines and curves, F. W. H.^rvev.
B^.H-x. *, ■A-.r^'T^
C_^^.i~
A PLANTING PLAN BY IMJSS I. GRANT BROWN.
October 17, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
511
PLANTING UNDER LARGE
TREES.
I
N the more prominent parts of the woodland,
where the trees are surrounded with turf, it
frequently happens that grass refuses to
grow directly under the largest and most
dense specimens. The result is bare, ugly
patches that many experience some difficulty
in clothing properly so that they harmonise with
the turf. During recent years considerable atten-
tion has been given to the planting of these bare
spaces with various kinds of low-growing shrubs.
Some discretion is, however, needed in selecting
shrubs for this purpose, because the majority of
those which we would like to use refuse to grow in
the dense shade which prevails during the summer
months and the almost incessant drip from the
branches of the overhanging trees
during the winter.
Before any kind is planted it will
be necessary to have the ground
well prepared, and this is best done
early in the autumn by digging
it up thoroughly so that rain can
soak in instead of ruiming off the
surface. In many instances the
roots of the trees will be found
quite close to the surface, but there
need be no scruples about breaking
a few of the smaller ones, as a
healthy tree will always have an
abundance of vigorous roots. Where
there is very little loose soil present,
and this obviously of a poor
character, ten or more cartloads of
good soil should be placed over the
roots of each tree, so as to give the
shrubs a start. When well estab-
lished, the kinds mentioned later
will thrive in almost any kind of soil
and in dense shade. It is, however,
most essential that well-rooted,
sturdy plants be selected ; weak
specimens will most likely succumb
the first summer. Should dry weather
be experienced during the first year
after planting, it will be necessary
to give the shrubs good soakiugs of
water at frequent intervals. So
much depends on giving them a
good start ; a little special attention
at the outset will be fully repaid
in subsequent years.
Where a dwarf carpet of greenery is desired,
there is nothing better than the common Ivy, and
if plants are set out i8 inches to 2 feet apart and
kept free from weeds the first year, a dense surface
will soon be formed. Almost, if not quite, as good
is the Periwinkle, a trailing semi-shrub of ever-
green character. Another dwarf plant, of similar
habit to the Periwinkle, is Euonymus radicans,
which has dark green foliage, and where something
extra choice is required, the variegated form of
this may be used. All the foregoing may be kept
•dwarf, close and fresh-looking by annual clipping,
this cutting to be done in March, just before new
growth commences. If desired, odd bulbs of such
strong-growing Daffodils as Emperor and Empress
might be planted between the shrubs. They would
give flowers for a few years mi til the shrubs became
too dense. Another method of carpeting the
ground under trees is shown in the accompanying
illustration. Although it could not be carried out
where the trunks of the trees are large, it is very
effective with trees of moderate dimensions. The
Grape Hyacinths or Muscaris are charming little
bulbous plants that produce their blue flowers
in abundance in early spring, and if planted rather
thickly beneath a tree, as shown, their grass-like
foliage will make a green carpet for many weeks
after the blossoms have faded. To get the best
results the bulbs should be planted during the
autumn, and then left alone for several years.
For taller undergrowth the common Rhodo-
dendron ponticum may be used in soil which does
not contain an excess of lime ; where decayed
leaves are prevalent this Rhododendron is almost
certain to thrive. A dwarfer shrub that delights
in similar soil is Gaultheria Shallon, and where
desired this may be utilised for forming a broad
edging to bold masses of Rhododendron. For
very poor soils Berberis Aquifolium, Aucuba
THE AUTUMN TREATMENT
OF LAND.
I
N our issue for September 26 last we en-
deavoured to point out some of the fallacies
that evidently exist about cultivating
and cropping waste land. We also referred
to an e.wellent leaflet (Special Leaflet
No. i) dealing with the subject that had
recently been published by the Board of Agricul-
ture. This is the most sensible advice that we
have seen given during the present war, and
through the courtesy of the Board we are able to
publish it herewith. Of course, the advice relating
to the sowing of crops in August is now too late for
this year, but the tenor of the advice would be
broken if this portion were omitted :
" The following suggestions and recommendations
GRAPE HYACINTHS OR MUSCARIS AS A CARPET. BULBS MAY BE PLANTED NOW.
japonica and the Oval-leaved Privet (Ligustrum
ovalifoliimi) are all suitable. The Berberis can be
kept to about eighteen inches in height by annual
pruning, but the Aucuba and Privet will do better
if allowed to grow 3 feet to 4 feet high. The
common Butcher's Broom (Ruscus aculeatus) is
a dwarfer shrub, some two feet high, that will
thrive under trees in most soils and localities.
For carpeting the ground between trees that
stand some distance apart, the St. John's Wort
(Hypericum calycinum) is an ornamental and neat
plant, and it has the merit of thriving in almost
any kind of soil provided it is well drained. Any
of the plants mentioned, when properly estab-
lished, will look far neater and better than the
worn, mossy scraps of turf that are too often
found doing duty beneath trees. Good examples
of undergrowth planting can always be seen
at Kew, where considerable attention has been
given to the subject. L. L. M.
have been prepared for the benefit of those
who occupy small areas of land, such as allot-
ments and gardens, or who wish to bring fresh land
under spade cultivation with the view of increasing
their supplies of vegetables during the coming
autumn and winter and thereafter. It should, of
course, be borne in mind that the suggestions made
are dependent upon local conditions.
Land which is available for spade cultivation in
small areas may be divided into three classes, viz. :
[a] Land at present under spade or arable
cultivation.
(6) Good land which has been under permanent
grass.
■(c) Derelict or waste land.
CLASS A.— CULTIVATED LAND.
Assuming that land of this character has been
well dug over and is in good heart, very little
additional cultivation will be required in the
autumn. The ground should, however, be dug
512
THE GARDEN.
[October 17, 1914.
one spit deep, and a dressing of stable manure
should be incorporated if the ground was not
manured in spring.
For Sowing in August. — On such land the
following crops might be sown immediately :
1. Early Turnips . . White and Purple Milan.
2. Carrots . . . . Early Horn.
3. Onions . . . . White Lisbon.
4. Lettuce . . . . Winter varieties,
5. Radish . . . . French Breakfast.
6. Spinach . . . . Winter or Prickly.
Seed should be sown at the following rates :
1. Turnips. — Sow loz, to 200 feet of drill half
an inch deep. The drills should be 12 inches
apart. Thin out to 5 inches to 9 inches apart
according to variety.
2. Carrots. — Sow lOz. to 300 feet
of drill three-quarters of an inch
to I inch in depth. The drills
should be 12 inches apart. Thin
out gradually to 5 inches, 6 inches
or 8 inches apart according to
season and variety.
3. Onions. — Sow lOz. to 200 feet
of drill (lolb. per acre) i inch
deep. There should be 9 inches
to 12 inches between the drills.
Autumn-sown varieties need not
be thinned.
4. Lettuce. — Sow half an ounce
to 160 feet of drill a quarter of
an inch deep, in rows 9 to 12 inches
apart. Thin out or plant out, leav-
ing 6 inches to 8 inches between the
plants according to variety.
5. Radish. — Sow lOz. of seed to
75 feet of drill i inch in depth, in
rows 6 inches to 9 inches apart.
6. Spinach. — Sow"ioz. of seed to
65 feet of drill about one inch deep,
in rows 12 inches to T5 inches apart.
For Planting Before Mid-
September. — The following] vege-
tables might be planted in August
or early September :
1. Early Cabbage . . Any early
variety.
2. Broccoli . . . . Winter and
spring varieties.
3. Borecole or Kale . . Winter and
spring varieties.
4. Leeks . . . . Musselburgh
They should be planted in the
following way, viz. :
1. Early Cabbage. — Plant in
rows, leaving rs inches between
the plants and 18 inches between FLOWERS
the rows. Very dwarf varieties,
however, succeed if only 12 inches
is left between the plants and 15 inches between
the rows. Strong-growing late varieties require
18 inches between the plants and 27 inches between
the rows. The plants must be earthed up with a
plough or hoe as the crop grows.
2. Broccoli. — Plant in rows, leaving 18 inches
between the plants and 27 inches between the rows.
The crop should be earthed up as in the case of
Cabbage.
3. Borecole or Kale. — Plant in rows the same as
Broccoli.
4. Leeks. — Plant in rows, leaving 4 inches to
6 inches between the plants and i foot to 15 inches
between the rows.
For Sowing or Planting in October and Early
November. — The following vegetables might be
sown or planted in October or the beginning of
November :
1. Broad Beans.
2. Early Peas.
3. All varieties of Cabbage and Kale raised from
seed sown in July or August. (Note. — If Cabbage
and Kale plants are required for distribution on a
large scale in October, seed should be sown in
.A.ugust at the rate of about twenty-five pounds per
acre ; seed-beds of one acre should furnish about
five hundred thousand plants.)
These plants will yield crops in the following
spring and early summer, but too late to allow of
Potatoes being successfully planted after them.
They could, however, be succeeded by Onions,
A very beautiful and strik-
OF THE NEW CREAMY WHITE COLLARETTE DAHLIA
CANOPUS (much reduced).
Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Kale or Carrots.
Growers should remember that it is inadvisable
that one crop of the Cabbage family should be
succeeded by another of the same kind. Beans
and Peas should be followed by Cabbage, and
Cabbage by Onions, Carrots, or some kind of crop
other than the Cabbage tribe.
{To be continued.)
NEW AND RARE PLANTS.
FIRST-CLASS CERTIFICATES.
Laelio-Cattleya Mrs. Evelyn Norrie.— A very
handsome bigeneric hybrid, in which the sepals
and petals are clear chrome yellow, the crimson
lip, heavily veined with white, having the frontal
lobe of deep crimson,
ing novelty.
Cattleya Princess Royal (C. Fabia x C. hardy-
ana). — In this beautiful form the sepals and petals
are rosy purple, the broad frontal lobe of rich
crimson, stained and suffused with orange in the
throat.
Cattleya Rhoda Fowler's Variety.— A form of
much beauty and excellence. The sepals and petals
are of rose cerise colouring, the lip of rich dark
purple.
AWARDS OF MERIT.
Cattleya Antiope Brackenhurst Variety (C.
chamberlainiana x C. aurea). — Sepals and petals
light golden yellow, the moderately large, heavily
fringed lip having a broad frontal
lobe of brownish velvet hue, the
tube heavily lined internally.
The foregoing four varieties named
were exhibited by J. Gumey
Fowler, Esq., Brackenhurst, Pem-
bury, Kent.
Laelio-Cattleya Britannia
Melanie. — In this distinct and
handsome variety the pure white
sepals and petals are of exceptional
size and length, and ovate-acumi-
nate in outline. The frontal lobe
of the lip is of rich purplish crimson,
in striking contrast to the wire-
edged margin of purest white.
From Messrs. Charlesworth and
Co., Hayward's Heath.
Carnation Princess Dagmar. —
A very handsome perpetual-flower-
ing variety, having the rich vel-
vety crimson colouring and fra-
grance of the Old Clove wedded to
a flower of goodly proportions and
fine build. The variety has the
deeply serrated petals of many of
the American class, the flowers
well supported on stiff stems. It
will doubtless receive a warm wel-
come for its fragrance alone. Shown
by Messrs. Allwood Brothers,
Hayward's Heath, and Stuart
Low and Co., Bush Hill Park,
Enfield.
Dahlia Canopus (Collarette). —
The largest white-flowered variety
of its class to-day and a variety of
merit. The colour is creamy, not
the chaste pure white of Eden,
recently certificated. From
Messrs. Stredwick and Son, St.
Leonards.
Aster Purple Prince. — This
is one of the Novaa-Angliae set
and a seedling from Mrs. Bowman, upon which
it is a great improvement, both in size and
colour. The latter is of reddish purple hue, in
fine contrast to the orange disc characteristic of
many of' its set. Shown by the Hon. Vicary
Gibbs, Elstrcc.
Aster Cloudy Blue. — A good addition to the
semi-double varieties, which have become so popular
of late. The variety has a fine pyramidal habit
of growth, freely set with flowers of pale lavender
blue colouring of considerable size. It is said to
attain to 3^ feet high. From Mr. Ernest Ballard,
Old Court, Colwall, near Malvern.
All the foregoing were shown before the Royal
Horticultural Society on the 6th inst., when the
awards were made.
October 17, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
513
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruit Under Glass.
Strawberry Plants for early forcing should be
fully exposed to light and air in order to ripen the
crowns before the time arrives for placing them in
their winter quarters. No hard-and-fast rule can
be laid down with regard to time in this matter, as
so much depends on the weather ; but while open
weather lasts, the best place for them is undoubtedly
where they are. Keep the pots quite free from
weeds and attend regularly to watering. Pots
which are well filled with roots should be watered
twice weekly with liquid manure from the farm-
yard. When the time arrives for plunging the
pots, there is nothing better than a bed of sifted
ashes, which should be of sufficient depth to allow
a bed 3 inches deep under the pots, as a protection
from worms. If cold frames are available, the first
batch of plants may be placed imder cover in
November, so that the soil may not become
saturated with cold rain.
Tomatoes. — Plants from which supplies are
being gathered will require very careful attention
with regard to watering and airing. The house
should not be quite closed while mild weather lasts,
and during the day the ventilators should be fully
open. Manure must be very sparingly applied to
plants at this stage, but clear water must be
freely given to the roots when necessary. Keep
the plants within bounds by frequently stopping
and thinning the shoots, so that no great quantity
of growth is removed at one time.
Young Tomato Plants for early spring supplies
ought now to be ready for potting into 3-inch pots.
They should be placed quite close to the roof glass
in a temperature of 55°. Water sparingly, and
allow sufficient air to keep the plants from becom-
ing drawn. The soil should consist of two-thirds
turfy loam and the remainder of leaf-soil, with a
good sprinkling of fime lime rubble.
Plants Under Glass.
Lily of the Valley. — A supply of this favourite
flower may easily be kept up during the winter ;
and where sufficient fire-heat is available, the
flowers may be produced in a very short time.
When the crowns have been potted up, a covering
of damp moss may be placed over them and kept
moist by the frequent use of the syringe. Keep
the soil moist and protect from strong light.
Fresh batches of crowns should be placed in heat
at intervals of ten days.
Cinerarias. — -These should now be removed
from their summer quarters and placed in pits
with a south aspect. The plants will grow much
better on a bed of ashes than on wooden stages.
Keep a look-out for aphides, and fumigate the pit
as soon as they appear. When the pots are well
filled with roots, manure water ought to be
frequently given.
Zonal Pelargoniums. — Plants for winter bloom-
ing should now be removed from cold pits to some
well-ventilated structure where they can be placed
within 2 feet of the glass, and where a little fire-
heat can be applied during dull weather to keep
the atmosphere of the house dry. The plants will
benefit by frequent light dressings of some approved
artificial manure.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Young Strawberry Plantations, made a month
or two ago, will require careful attention with
regard to water. Each plant must be examined
and sufficient water given to keep the ball of soil
in a moist condition ; for if once allowed to become
dry at this period, the result will never be satis-
factory. The Dutch hoe should be frequently
used among these yormg plants to keep small
weeds in check.
Late-Fruiting Strawberries. — St. Antoine de
Padoue is the best autumn-fruiting variety, and
now is the time to propagate young stock for next
season's crop. The runners should be removed
from the old plants and inserted in small pots of
rich soil. If placed in a close cold frame they will
soon make roots, and the plants will benefit by
the protection of the frame during the winter.
They will then make good plants for new planta-
tions in March. A well-prepared north border
should be selected for them, and, as the plants
do not grow large, 18 inches between the rows will
be sufficient, while a space of i foot will be necessary
between the plants in the row.
The Flower Garden.
Herbaceous Borders. — The present is a good
time for lifting, dividing and replanting the various
subjects in the herbaceous borders ; but before
the plants are disturbed they should be carefully
labelled. They may then be lifted and placed
temporarily in a border near at hand while the
ground is being trenched and prepared for them ;
and as this work proceeds, a good quantity of
decayed manure should be incorporated with the
soil. Wood ashes and old lime rubble may be
freely mixed with heavy soil, while river sand
may also be applied with advantage. When the
ground is sufficiently settled, planting may be
commenced ; but previous to this the border
should be marked out and the position of the most
important subjects indicated, to avoid confusion.
The height of the various plants, the colour of the
flowers and the season of blooming must all be
taken into consideration. When dividing the
roots the best method is to puU them apart, and
not cut them with a spade or knife. The pieces
should be planted firmly, and the surface of the
ground regulated as the work proceeds.
The KitchenlGarden.
Turnips.— The recent dry weather has been un-
favourable to this crop, and sowings made for spring
supplies should receive a good soaking of clear
water, after which a sprinkling of artificial manure
may be applied and lightly washed into the soil.
These Turnips may be allowed to remain in the
ground throughout the winter.
Celery. — The earthing-up of this crop should
be accomplished as quickly as possible. Water the
beds thoroughly a day or two before the soil is
placed in position, remove all side growths, and
tie up the foliage so that it may not be injured by
coming in contact with the soil.
Lettuce. — A sowing should be made in a cold
pit to produce plants to stand the winter under
glass and for planting in the open garden in March
with a view to cutting in May. Maximum is one
of the best for this purpose.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Asparagus. — As soon as the tops change colour,
the plants should be cut over, and the cuttings, as
well as all weeds and rubbish, be carefully
raked off. When the beds have been made tidy,
a small mulch of some well-rotted manure
may be given to protect the crowns during severe
weather.
Tomatoes.— All the fruits from plants growing
outside should now be cut and strung up to the
wires in a vinery or Peach-house. These will all
ripen in time, and if some are not quite fit
for salads, they will at least come in handy for
soups.
Rhubarb. — As soon as the growths of one or
other of the early varieties have died down, a start
should be made for securing a few roots for early
forcing. Dig up one or two roots, according
to requirements, and leave these on the surface
exposed to the weather for a time ; a few degrees
of frost will give them the necessary check
to render them fit for forcing. Continue to
throw out a few roots at intervals to keep up a
succession.
The Flower Garden.
Wallflower and Myosotis. — The planting of
these spring-flowering subjects, if not already
attended to, should be proceeded with at once.
It must be remembered that the better the plants
are estalrlished now, the better they will withstand
severe weather during winter. If by any chance
the soil is dry, they should be given a good
watering to settle the soil about the roots.
Hollyhocks. — In many districts it is quite
safe to let these plants remain outside during the
winter. Even here we never disturb them, and
scarcely ever lose a plant. But as the soil and
situation, more than frost, play a great part in
this, it would not be advisable in all cases to follow
this practice. Wlien the soil is inclined to be
of a retentive nature, it will be safer to lift them
and winter them in cold frames. When the
flower-spikes have faded, they will be quite ready
to be moved. If, however, there is the least trace
of freshness in the weather, this work had better
be deferred for a time.
Top-Dressing Tennis and Croquet Lawns. —
Now that the season is at an end so far as these
outside games are concerned, the weeding and
repairing of the turf ought to be attended to. In
the case of weeds, the lawn should be gone over
systematically, and Daisies, Plantains and other
coarse weeds carefully taken up. In the case
of hand weeding, mark off the lawn into sections
of 3 feet or 4 feet, as, by so doing, no part of
the lawn will be omitted. When this work is
finished, top-dress the surface with a mdxttire
of sifted soil or sand, adding a little approved
lawn manure. This can be evenly distributed
with a broom or the back of a rake. Where any
turfing has to be done, the sooner this work is
completed the better chance will it have to become
knitted together before the close of the growing
season.
Plants Under Glass.
Pot Roses. — Those intended for indoor culture
should be looked over, and where repotting is
necessary, this should be attended to at once.
Have the pots thoroughly washed outside and in,
and see that ample drainage is provided. A suit-
able compost would be loam inclined to be of a
heavy nature, lime rubble and a sprinkling of
bone-meal. Plants that do not require to be
repotted must have the drainage examined and be
top-dressed with the compost, as advised for
potting. Plunge the pots up to their rims in ashes
behind a wall, when they can be taken indoors
as required.
Pelargoniums. — ^Those intended for winter
flowering must now be placed in a greenhouse,
and all flowers should be allowed to develop.
Water must be given sparingly, and although air
should be admitted freely on all favourable
occasions, the atmosphere must be kept dry. A
number of the older plants that have been flowering
during the summer should be retained. They
must, of course, be cut back, placed on a shelf
and given little or no water. These will make
good specimen plants for next season.
Retarded Lily of the Valley. — These crowns can
now be obtained for forcing, and may be had in
flower roughly from three to four weeks from the
time they are potted. Unfortunately, although
their culture is so simple, they are not always
seen at their best. Many people rush them into
heat the moment they are received. Now this
is a great mistake. Place twelve to fifteen
crowns in a 6-inch pot, leaving them well above
the surface, and stand them in a cold frame for
at least four or five days, covering the glass with
a garden mat, by which time they will have grown
2 inches. They may then be transferred to the
forcing-pit, and on no account allow the soil to
become dry. Always water with tepid water.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Gooseberries. — Where a new plantation of
these is intended, no time shoiHd be lost in pre-
paring the ground, and as these bushes will, in
the ordinary course of things, remain on the same
groimd for many years, the trenching of the ground
must be done thoroughly. It is a great mistake
to retain old, worn-out bushes, which are in most
cases simply a harbour for insects, and at best
only produce a moderate crop of under-sized
berries ; whereas these young bushes can be fruited
the second year. Indeed, many of them will fruit
the following summer.
John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopetoun Gardens, South Queensferry, N.B.
514
THE GARDEN.
[October 17, 1914.
ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
TREES AND SHRUBS.
SMALL EVERGREEN TREE (O. A.).—U is possible
that Picca pungens ^'lauca will suit your purpose, althougli
if a conifer otlier than a Fir or Spruce would do, you
micht try Cupressus lawsoniana crecta viridis. The
former is a very beautiful tree, but has not such a
good constitution as the latter. A hole S feet or 6 feet
in diameter should be made and filled with good soil
containing leaf-mould. October would be a better time
for planting than Kovcmber.
HOLLIES TURNING BROWN (K. M. S.).— It is not
possible to sav why your Hollies are turning brown
ivithout inspecting the plants, but as you say there
has been a Are near by, it is possible that the flames
have scorched the leaves. If the wet ground you mention
is the cause of the trouble, you will find decayed roots.
By digging a hole near the hushes you can easily discover
whether there is any root trouble. The only way to get
rid of water-rats is to shoot, trap, or infect them ivith
Danyz Virus.
USE OF PEAT MOSS LITTER FOE RHODODEN-
DRONS (i. A.). — Peat moss litter may be used as a surface-
dressing for Rhododendrons, providing it is well decayed
and is not used too lavishly. It is really a more satis-
factory manure used as a surface-dressing than for digging
in, although some people have found it satisfactory when
used as an ordinary manure. A good deal of corre-
spondence took place last spring in our pages as to the
use of peat moss litter as a manure. It is now too late
to prune Rhododendrons. Such severe pruning as you
suggest should be accomplished in April, for then there
is the full growing season to be looked forward to. If
the plants were cut back at the present time, they would
look ugly throughout the winter and spring, and the
old branches would be less liable to produce new shoots
than if the pruning were left until April.
FRUIT GARDEN.
BOTTLING PEARS (A- B. IF.).— Unquestionably
your failure is due chiefly to the fruit being too ripe.
There is no reason why you should not be equally as
successful with these as with the Plums. The bottling
should take place as soon as the fruits have reached their
full size and just before they commence to ripen. Sugar
may be added at the time of bottUng according to taste,
and will often bring out the flavour of the Pears better
than If done in pure water only. Some place two
Cloves in each bottle and a little Lemon peel. All of
the varieties named are suitable, but for preference select
Beurr6 Clairgeau.
MISCELLANEOUS.
GRUBS ON PELARGONIUMS (E. S. H. S.).— We
think your best plan will be to spray the Pelargoniums
with lead arsenate ne.xt year if the grubs appear. You
do not send any, but from what you say we suspect your
plants are attacked by the larvae of the silver Y moth.
HOUSE DRAINAGE (H. H., Cheshire).— U the tank
is the receptacle of nothing stronger than sink or bath
water, or these with rain-w-atcr, the Rose-beds may be
freely watered through the growing season once or twice
weekly with advantage. If cesspool matter is mingled
with these, the liquid might be given once a fortnight
during the same period, and once a month at other times.
The question is one which can hardly be satisfactorily
answered with the information before us.
EFFECT OF TARRED ROAD ON PLANTS (Dun
Spiro, Spero). — Wo can hardly think the tar of the road
would have the evil effects you speak of, and especially
so far removed as some of the plants are from the tarred
area. It is very difficult to say exactly what may have
been the causes "Without seeing the plants, but all the
symptoms that you speak of may very well have been
produced through lack of water at a critical time, and
we are inclined to think the extraordinary weather we
have experienced this season is to blame.
POT-POURRI: THE DRY PROCESST(.E. J.).— Pink
Roses, when they are thoroughly dry, should have the
petals puUed apart, laying them thinly on sheets of paper
in an airy room till they are quite dry. Sweet Geranium
leaves and Lavender are also dried, the larger kinds of
Geranium leaves being pulled to pieces. For a quantity
equal to two-thirds of a bushel, have the following spices
and gums, all in powder or finely crushed : Cloves, mace,
and cinnamon, 2oz, of each ; coriander, allspice, gum
styrax and gum benzoin, half an ounce each ; violet
powder, quarter of a pound. Mix all well together.
There is a whole chapter on the making of pot-pourri,
with a detailed description of the moist process — a process
that cannot be described in a few sentences — in Miss
Jekyll's book, " Home and Gardens " (Longmans).
NAMES OF PLANTS.— J. ./.—The plant you send is
the Thorn Apple (Datura Stramonium). It is really a
weed. Mrt.A. Thomson. — We think the Rose is Lady
Hlllingdon or possibly Marquise de Sinety ; it is impossible
to name so dried a specimen with any certainty. F. A.
Slurge. — Crocus nuiliflonis. Alfred AUhusen. — A,
Charieis heterophylla ; B, Spir^ea japonica ; 0, Liatris
gmminitolia. F. Marples. — 1, Linaria maroccana ; 2,
Teucrlum Botrys, a rare British plant. Thoma,i I
Bicknell. — The Pink Is a form of Dianthus Sequieri,
probably a hybrid of it and some other species. I
NAMES OF FRUIT.— IF. S. Tt/fftt.- Crimson Costard.
H. B. B. — 1, Charles Ross; 2, New Ha\vthornden;
3, Blenheim Orange ; 4, Cornish Aromatic ; 5, Winter
Peach ; 6, Cox's Orange Pippin ; 7, Risemary Russet ;
8, Pickering's Seedling ; 9, Sugar Loaf ; 10, Beinctte
Grise ; 11, King of the Pippins ; 12, Rambour Frone.
J. M., Barnl Qreen.—l, StirUng Castle ; 2, The Queen ;
3, Bismarck ; 4, Newton Wonder ; 6, CelUni Pippin ; 6,
Fearn's Pippin ; 7, Cox's Pomona ; 8, Beurrfl Dumont ; 9,
Princess. W. Cann. — American Mother. Johti
aibbins. — BeuriS d'Anjou. W. Lumtey. — 1, Norfolk
Beauty ; 2 and 5, Golden Spire ; 3, Christmas Pcarmain ;
4, Lord Grosvenor.
OBITUARY.
JOHN GOULD VEITCH.
It is with regret that we have to announce the
death of Mr. John Gould Veitch, of the well-known
firm of Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, which occurred
on the 3rd inst. The deceased, who was only
forty-five years of age, was the only surviving son
of the late John Gould Veitch and a nephew of
Sir Harry J. Veitch. He was an M.A. (Cambridge),
and also took his Blue, being an expert at football.
He took an active part in the Chelsea business, but
of late years, owing to failing health, was not
able to appear much in public. He leaves a widow
and one child, to whom we tender our deepest
sympathy in their sad loss. The funeral took
place at Putney Vale Cemetery on the 7th inst.
amid many tokens of the esteem in which he was
held.
SOCI ETI ES.
BIRMINGHAM AND MIDLAND COUNTIES
GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION.
A LECTiTRE on " The Border Carnation : Its History
and Cultivation " was jj;iven at the openins of the
autumn session on Monday, October 5, by Sir. A. R.
Brown of King's Norton. The last meeting's minutes
having been read, Mr. Herbert (chairman) called upon the
lecturer, stating that Mr. Brown's experience with this
plant had made liim famihar mtli much respecting its culti-
vation, and the advice he was able to give was invaluable
to growers. The history of the Carnation, said the
lecturer, dates back to 300 e.g., when it was described
by Theophrates, the ancient botanist, in whose hands
botany attained its highest development. It was he who
endowed this plant with its generic name, Dianthus,
i.e.. Divine Flower, and for a long time it was cultivated
only in its relation to medicine and cookery. Pliny also
informs us that the Romans used it for sops in wine
and ale, as it imparted thereto a spicy flavour. To Chaucer,
in the reign of Edward III., could be traced the first
mention of its cultivation in England, while, later on. in
Shakespeare's famous ^v^itings it came in twice. During
the intervening ages until to-day, the literal moaning
of Carnation had shghtly altered, like the word
Picotec, derived from the French ptcoU, meaning
spotted — a mere misnomer at the present day — for the
chief point in the Picotee at present is its purity, spots
or bars being grave defects. At one time tlie split calyxed
" bursters " were alone preserved for cultivation, "whole
blowers " not being deemed worthy of any serious attention
until 1740, when they ousted the coarser varieties. At
this time, too, serrated petals became regarded as a serious
blemish, and accordingly were eliminated. More than
sixty years ago the present standard of excellence for
Carnations was arrived at, and since then it has remained
unaltered. Towards the nineteenth century, bizarres,
flakes and white-ground Picotees became the valued
varieties, selfs then being termed as "wasters"; but in
tlie thirty-five years which have elapsed since the marvel-
lous improvements by several gentlemen revolutionised
this flower, the onco despised selfs have become the
most popular type of this " Di\ine of Flowers."
Mr. Brown next proceeded to give a few cultural
notes, detailing the method of his own procedure
through all the numerous stages, from the time of propaga-
tion to the flowering time of the plant. He also dealt
with lists of the best of present-day varieties, gave some
useful suggestions for the l>eneflt of intending exhibitors
for the future, and ended his discourse with some further
remarks on tlie Carnation in the border. The lecture,
which was of a highly interesting nature, full of excellent
information, was thoroughly enjoyed by all. The meeting:
concludiul with a well-applauded vote of thanks proposed
by Mr. Cryer and seconded by Mr. Higley. Before the close,
the secretary (Mr. Decdman) made reference to a box.
This had been requisitioned for fortnightly voluntary
contribution" of the members for the beneflt of the Prince
of Wales's Fund. A member, Mr. Farmer, Iiad witli great
generosity provided, as an initial donation, £], and this,
togetlier with the first evening's contributions, now made
np a total for the purpose of the Fund of £1 10s. 6d.
ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.
At quite short notice, and in large degree unexpected,
quite a creditable exhibition was brought togetlier on
the 6th inst. at the Royal Horticultural Society's Hall,
Vincent Square, a considerable number of Fellows vi&itin;:
the show in the afternoon. An outstanding feature of
the meeting was the superb collection of fruits — Apples
and Pears — from Eynsford, than which nothing £ner
has been exhibited. From NVey bridge came a very
creditable lot of Pears, albeit the district is not well
suited to fruit culture. Considerable interest, too,
attaclied to a hybrid set of Marrows, of which doubtless
more will be lieard in the future. The commercially
grown Crotons from Edmonton were of a high order of
merit. Hardy plants were well represented, Michaelmas
Daisies being very fine. Sprays of cut trees and shrubs
demonstrated the high leaf ornament of these at this
season. No Orchid groups were staged, though five
important new Orchids gained awards. The floral com-
mittee granted awards to four novelties. For descriptions
of these see " New and Rare Plants," page 512.
Floral Comjiittee.
Present : H. B. May, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs.
R. C. Notcutt, R. Hooper Pearson, J. Green, E. A. Bowles,
W. J. Bean, G. Reuthe, C. R. Fielder, F. W. Harvey,
J. \y. Moorman, J. Dickson, H. J. Jones, A. Turner,
C. E. Pearson, W. P. Thomson, E. H. Jenkins, J. W.
Barr and James Hudson.
The magnificent group of Roses set up by ilr. G. Prince,
Oxford, attracted much attention by reason of its variety
and excellence. For the month of October the flowers
were charmingly fresh and good, while in not a few instances
the normal or summer colour was distinctly heightened.
Of the new Hybrid Tea Josephine Nicholson quite an
imposing central group was staged, tiic fresh self pink
colour showing to great advantage. Other excellent
varieties were Rayon d'Or (deep yellow and in consider-
able quantity), Lady Pirrie {rich' salmon), Mrs. Hcrl>ert
Stevens (white). Snow Queen (the revised name of Frau
Karl Druschki), Liberty, Lady Hillingdon and BLrs, A.
Tate.
Messrs. H. J. Jones, Limited, Lewisham, S.E., showed
a table of Michaelmas Daisies, for which a silver Flora medal
was awarded. The group was admirably displayed,
bold, etfective, full-length sprays producing what is so
much needed at exhibitions, viz., good garden effect.
Prominent varieties were Silver Queen, Don (a fine clear
blue), Henri Adams (deep blue), Bianca, Lil Fardell
(rosy red). Queen (palest mauve), Chmax, ^\'hite Gimax,
Sirius (rose) and Magnet (clear blue).
Mr. W. WeUs, jun., Merstham, showed herbaceous
Phloxes, such as Frau Ant. Buchncr (white), America
(pink), Le Mahdi (blue), with Asters Climax and cordifoUus
Photograph, and Erigeron Quakeress (a rather delicate
mauve-coloured kind characterised by great freedom of
blossoming).
Messrs. J. Cheal and Sons, Crawley, had an exliibit of
cut shrubs and trees valuable for foliage elfects. Of
these, Crataegus prunifolia, PyrusAucuparia discolor (very
fine), Prunus Moseri fl.-pl., Baccharis halimifolia, Amelan-
chier canadensis, Acer japonicum laciniatum (very fine),
Tamarix hispida sestivalis and Kolreuteria paniculata
were some of the finest examples. Blany species of Oak
were also brilliantly coloured, the effect of the whole
remarkable in the extreme.
The Misses Hopkins, Sheppcrton-on-Thames, showed a
small collection of alpines. Sedum pulchellum, Potentilla
Tonguei, P. T\'illmottiana, Tunica Saxifraga, Teucrium
Polium aureum and Hypericum reptans were interesting
examples in flower.
Messrs. Allwood Brothers, Hayward's Heath, showed
Carnations. Salmon Enchantress, May Day, "Wivelsfleld
White and Princess Dagmar were some of the more im-
portant in a nice lot.
Messrs. G. and A. Clark, Limited, The Nurseries, Dover,
showed Helianthus sparsifohus, Armeria gigantea,
Cimicifuga simplex, Zauschneria californica and a variety
of Astet Amellus.
Sir. C. Engelmann, Saffron Walden, showed Carnations,
such as White Wonder, Fanny (fancy), 5Irs. C. F. Raphael,
Sunstar (yellow), Carola, Scarlet Carola, 'Uniite Enchantress,
Lady Meyer and Lady Northcliffe. Circe (heliotrope
fancy) was very good. It is one of the most attractive
of its class.
Mr. Amos Perry, Enfield, showed good hardy flowers,
such as Helianthus sparsifolius (very fine), Kniphofias,
Senecio pulcher, Erigeron Amos Perry (mauve), Aster
St. Eg^vin (rose), A. Amellus Distinction, Helcnium
autumnale rubrum, Kniphofla Macowanii and Armeria
plantaginea gigantea. Dianthus Napoleon III. was finely
presented in flower.
Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, showed
Rlichaelmas Daisies, early-flowering Chrysanthemums,
Kniphofias in variety, a delightful lot of hybrid Ncrincs
and Autumn Crocuses, such as C. pulchellus, C. spccioaus,
C. hadriaticus (white), C. saundersianus (white) and C.
cancellatus albus (white, lined with faint blue). Some
Gladioli were also shown.
air. Ernest Ballard, Cfdwall, lUTeford>-hin\ showed a
table of new Michaelmiis Daisies, such as Glory of Colwall,
Mira, Peggy Ballard (double Ithu). liaglime (rosy mauve)
and Edith' Goodwin (tine blue). Rosy Morn was also
pleasing and effective. Cloudy Blue (a\vard of merit)
is virtually a mauve blue counterpart of Beauty of Cohvnll.
It is very charming.
Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Enfield, showed Carnations
Yellow Prince, Baroness de Brienen, British Triumph,
Snowstorm, Enchantress Supreme, White Enchantress,
Satin Robe and Salmon King. The now l*rincc8S
Dagmar, crimson (see "New and Rare Plants"), was
also noted.
■«* ^gfey-
^^r^@-
GARDEN.
.^.-
-^(V>=
V^^^'^
No. 2240.— Vol. LXXVIII.
October 24, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Raiser of Rose Excelsa Honoured. — Tho
Hubbard gold medal, offered by the American
Rose Society for the best Rose of American origin
introduced within five years, has been awarded to
Mr. M. H. Walsh of Wood's Hole, Mass., for raising
the rambler variety Excelsa. We have already
had considerable experience of this fine crimson
Rose in this country, and predict that it will,
before many years have elapsed, oust Crimson
Rambler from our gardens.
A Black Apple. — At a recent
meeting of the scientiiic committee
of the Royal Horticultural Society,
Mr. I. A. Walker of Woodberry,
Sydenham Hill, S.E., sent a per-
fectly black Apple. Only once before
has an Apple having this appearance
been shown before the committee,
and on that occasion Dr. M. C. Cooke
attributed the appearance to an attack
of the fungus Sclerotinia fructigena
(= Monilia fructigena), the cause of
brown rot of various fruits.
Doronicums in Pots .—The
Leopard's Bane is a well-known bed-
ding and border plant ; but it is not
widely known that Doronicum planta-
gineum, taken up from the open ground
and potted now, will flower well early
in the new year if gently forced in a
temperature of from 45" to 55° by night
and 65° with the heat of the sun by
day. Its value as a decorative plant
in a cut state needs no recommending,
and to get it at that time of the
year would greatly increase its value,
for its bright yellow flowers last fresh
for a long time.
A Beautiful Climber for a Sunny
Aspect. — Tecoma grandiflora is one
of the most beautiful of climbers,
and flowering as it does so late in
the summer and autumn, it is par-
ticularly valuable. This year it has
been flowering with exceptional
freedom in many places, its terminal
panicles of large, trumpet - shaped,
orange scarlet flowers being very
conspicuous. It should be planted
against a south wall where it can get all the heat
possible. Wood of the previous year should be
cut back in the spring, but apart from this no
other attention is required. It was introduced
from China and Japan about 1800, but is not
often seen. T. radicans, from North America,
much resembles it, requiring a similar position
and treatment.
An Interesting British Seashore Plant.—
Convolvulus Soldanella, perhaps better known
as Calystegia Soldanella, is among the few
but distinct plants that constitute the flora
of the coast sandhills. Next to the blue
Sea Holly (Eryngium maritimum), this hand-
some Bindweed, with its large pink flowers,
is most conspicuous, rambling among the curious
formations of wind-blown sea sand, although
FLOWERING GROWTHS OF ESCALLONIA MONTEVIDENSIS
BEAUTIFUL SHRUB FOR THE AUTUMN.
it does not occur so frequently as the Eryn-
gium. It is an interesting plant, as the
stems run under the surface, and only the
summer and early autumn. It is best raised
from seeds sown early in autumn.
Buddleia Colvillei Flowering in October.—
Messrs. R. Veitch and Sons of Exeter kindly
send us a flowering spray of this handsome hardy
shrub, with the intimation that it is now
flowering in their E.xeter nursery for the second
time this year. It would be interesting to learn
whether it is producing its second crop of
rose pink flowers in other parts of the
country.
A Beautiful Autumn-Flowering
Shrub. — In our issue for October 10
we published a note on sprays of
Escallonia montevidensis sent us
by Mr. J. E. Sanders of Redruth. At
the request of several readers we
publish herewith an illustration of
flowering sprays of this charming
shrub, which is often known in gardens
as E. floribunda. The blossoms are
pure white, and at a little distance the
inflorescences have the appearance of
white Lilac. In the southern and
western counties of England, and also
on the west coast of Scotland, this
slu'ub has proved hardy. In common
with other members of its race, it
appreciates well-drained soil that is
rather on the sandy side, and if the
garden is an exposed one it is safer
to plant against a wall with a southern
or western exposure. Late summer
and autumn flowering shrubs are by
no means plentiful, hence we ought
to make full use of those that are
available.
Shirley Poppies in October. — One
of the most charming features in the
gardens at Hampton Court just now
is a colony of Shirley Poppies growing
close by the famous vinery. These
are in full flower and look as
vigorous and healthy as we are
accustomed to see them in July.
Evidently the plants are the result
of sowing seeds during June or
July, a practice that might well be
adopted with a number of other quick-
growing annuals. We record the feature now so
that readers may make a note of it in their garden
diaries for next year. While writing of the gardens
small, thick, fleshy leaves and large pink flowers , at Hampton Court, it is interesting to note that
rise above the bleached sand and enjoy the full ' the names Aubrietia and Swainsona are spelt
power of the blazing sun. It will succeed quite wrongly on the labels there. The former has lost
well in our gardens if planted in sandy soil in an " i " and the latter has gained one. It is a small
full sun, and will be an object of beauty during I matter, but one that ought to be remedied.
516
THE GARDEN.
[October 24, 1914
CORRESPONDENCE.
ITfie Editor is not responsible for Ihc opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
Chrysanthemum Shows for the War. — I
note in your rtceut issues that many Chry-
santhemum shows are not to be held this year.
No doubt the same number of blooms and plants
have been grown this season, and no doubt, also,
thousands of lovers of the Autiunn Queen will
be keenly disappointed at not being able to get
a glimpse of some of them. I suggest, therefore,
that growers (amateur and professional) might
invite all and sundry to inspect their respective
displays, making a charge of, say, sixpence, and,
after defraying any incidental expenses, the
balance might be sent to the War Relief Fund.
Such as are willing to do this could send you their
names and addresses for publication. — M. E. G.,
Beckenham. [We shall be pleased to publish
the names and addresses of those who fall in with
our correspondent's suggestion. — Ed.]
Cotoneaster horizontalis. — The bright scarlet
fruits of this Cotoneaster are highly pleasing at
the present time, but it will not be long before
uncommon for the white variety to fruit, but it
requires a hot, dry season lilie the present or that
of 1911 to bring the fruits to reasonable maturity.
The tree here fruited in 1911, but I have never seen
any fruits on the pink variety that we have. The
size of the best fruits would be as large as Walnuts
before the green hulls have been removed. —
C. Turner, Ken View Garden, Highgate.
When to Plant Tulips.— With regard to the
Editor's note at the end of my paragraph on the
above • subject in The Garden of October 10,
page 490, expressing a desire to know how our
late-planted Tulips behaved the following season,
I regret to say that I have no record or recollection
of this. Being a cheap variety, they would most
likely be planted among a mi.xed lot, as I attached
no great importance to the matter at the time. —
Charles Comfort.
As a mild Tulip maniac I, naturally.
have been interested in the correspondence relating
to the above, more particularly with regard
to late-flowering varieties, of which I grow a
considerable number. So far as my own experi-
ence goes, it makes little or no difference whether
Darwin and Cottage Tulips are planted early or
late. At least the only difference I have
THE INTERESTING COLLECTION OF HYBRID VEGETABLE MARROWS RAISED
EXHIBITED BY MR. F. HERBERT CHAPMAN.
they fall to the ground, unless eaten by the birds.
Self-sown seedlings frequently appear in my
garden, some of them at a considerable distance
from the parent plants, the produce, no doubt,
of berries carried by the birds. — S. Arnott.
Crab Apple Jelly. — As Crab Apples are so
plentiful this year, and are now ready for making
into jelly, we are pleased to publish the following
recipe kindly sent us by a lady correspondent :
" To gib. of Crab Apples add 3 quarts of water.
Boil the Apples imtil they go to a pulp. Then
strain through a jelly bag, measure the juice,
and allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar
to each pint of juice. Add the sugar ; then put
into the pan and well boil for twenty minutes."
Fruiting of Double - Flowered Peach. —
Neither of the correspondents who have written
on this says whether he refers to the white or
pink flowering Peach. We have a specimen of
the former about eight feet high and six feet
through which has had quite four dozen fruits
(some still hanging), the bulk of which have been
of quite an acceptable flavour. Besides being edible
in the raw state, these fruits are very good when
stewed, also for making tarts. It is not altogether
observed is that bulbs planted in December are
a few days later in blooming than those planted
in October or left in the ground from the previous
season. Having such a number, I make a point
of lifting about half my stock each year, so that
all the bulbs have two seasons of blooming before
being lifted. When left more than two years,
the bulbs deteriorate -somewhat, especially when
grown in a herbaceous border or among Roses,
as I am forced to grow mine. There certainly
is no advantage in planting late-flowering Tulips
before October, for even when left in the ground
the bulbs do not start making root until October ;
in fact, I have recently lifted bulbs that did not
show any signs of starting. — T. A. Weston.
[This failure to start is probably due to the
excessive drought. — Ed.]
An Unreported Incident at the " Inter-
national."— A propos the article in your issue
for October 10 entitled " Rosa Pernetiana, 1838 —
1914," I am reminded of an interesting incident
at the International Show. One morning — the
morning after the awards had been made — 1
was on duty representing the Special Jury in the
Directors' Room. Two gentlemen and a lady
were shown in. I found they were M. Pernet-
Ducher and his daughter and a representative
of the Daily Mail. Mile. Pernet-Ducher spoke
excellent English, and stated the case on behalf
of her father, who did not speak English freely.
The point was, the Daily Mail people would like
the new Rose Mme. Edouard Herriot — which the
day before had been awarded their gold cup —
named the Daily Mail Rose. I pointed out
that no such condition attached to the offer of
the cup in the schedule, and therefore it must
be a matter of arrangement between M. Pernet-
Ducher and the paper in question. The Directors
of the " International " had no duty in the matter
further than to carry out the judges' decision and
present the cup to M. Pernet-Ducher. M. Pernet-
Ducher explained why he could not name the
Rose the Daily Mail Rose — " It had already been
named after his dear friend, the Mayoress of
Lyons." I suggested that the other side might
be satisfied by putting " the Daily Mail Gold
Cup Rose " in parentheses after the name Mme.
Edouard Herriot. It was the only way out,
and we smilingly shook hands all round. — W.
Cuthbertson, Edinburgh.
An Interesting Exhibit of Hybrid Marrows. —
At the Royal Horticultural Society's exhibition
held at Vincent Square on the 6th inst., a group
of hybrid Vegetable Marrows shown by Mr. F.
Herbert Chapman of Rye, and the raiser of the now •
well-known yellow Freesia bearing his name, created
considerable interest. At a time like the present,
when the value of all kinds of home-grown food
is appreciated, we think particulars of these
Marrows will be of interest to our readers, and
Mr. Chapman has kindly furnished us with the
information given below. We understand that
the whole of the collection has been sold to
Messrs. James Carter and Co., so that the
public will no doubt, in due course, be able
to obtain seeds. The exhibit, illustrated here-
with, received a silver-gilt Knightian medal,
awarded by the unanimous vote of the fruit and
vegetable committee. Mr. Chapman writes : " The
series of Marrows exhibited by me at the Royal
Horticultural Society's meeting all originated
from a cross made several years back between
the Custard Marrow and the variety Table Dainty,
the former being the seed-bearing parent. Being
always a believer in flavour in vegetables as
opposed to size, it had often occurred to me that
if the delicate and rich flavour of the Custard
Marrow could be imparted to a fruit more amenable
in shape to culinary uses, a point would be gained.
All who have practised hybridising for some few
years become aware that it is a game of surprises,
but I was scarcely prepared for the number and
variety of types which evolved from this one
individual cross. Although almost all on the
small side, yet the variations in shape, colour
and marking are most pronounced and remarkable.
Between fifty and sixty dishes were shown, and
there were nearly that number of quite distinct
types, ranging through all the shapes of the present
commercial varieties, with the addition of fruits
resembling a balloon, a Ridge Cucumber and other
queer forms. In colour, too, they run from
pale cream through all shades of green, striped
and mottled, to a green which is almost black.
In some the true Custard flavour is quite pro-
nounced, and when the best types are selected
and thoroughly fixed I am ambitious enough to
hope that a useful addition will have been made
to oiu: none too long list of delicate and toothsome
British vegetables."
October 24, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
517
ROOT PROPAGATION OF
H A R DY HER BAG E O U S
PERENNIALS.
No phase of gardening is more fraught
with interest than tlie general pro-
pagation of plants. That numbers
of plants reproduce themselves a
hundredfold by means of their roots
is well laiown, and we have instances
of this in mere weeds, as, e.g., the Dock and the
Dandelion, or in the garden in certain sections of
the IVIichaelmas Daisy. In these directions,
however, the knowledge we possess of these
facts is of service in assisting to keep such rampant-
growing plants within proper limits. But otlier
plants display a marked tendency to reproduce
their kind by means of roots, which, however,
are of little value to the gardener for some reason
or another. Of these the Heleniums and the
Phloxes are instances, and as the plants are easily
increased by cuttings or division in the usual
way, their multiplication by any other means
is neither desirable nor profitable. But there
are other instances where root propagation is
of much value, and particularly so in those cases
where the plants, producing no cuttings in the
usual way, are also difficult to increase by seeds
or division of the roots. Now and again one
meets with a plant which rarely produces a fertile
seed in this country at all, and which is also almost
impossible to increase by the ordinary methods
of division. Such a plant is Senecio pulcher,
an invaluable plant during the late summer and
early autumn months, and one but rarely seen
in good condition. Hence root propagation
in such a case is of great value, and prevents
so good a plant being lost to cultivation
altogether.
From another point of view, root propagation
is of great value to the specialst, as by its means
selected examples of certain plants which cannot
be relied upon to come true from seeds may be
readily increased and always prove true to their
kind ; that is to say, whTe the flowers or seeds
are exposed to cross-fertilisation by insects, the
roots still retain the true character of the individual
plant in its entirety.
Quite recently many of our readers have made
enquiries into this method of plant propagation,
and the subject being of a seasonable nature, we
give in greater or less detail the essential
items for its successful adoption. Happily for
those interested, the work may be carried out
during the winter season, and, indeed, the
dormant period of the subjects is the best time.
What has to be done is to lift a good-sized plant
from the open ground and detach as many of its
roots as may be deemed expedient and safe.
The detached roots should then be taken to the
potting-shed and cut into lengths of about
I J inches, taking care at this juncture that the
uppermost ends of the roots, i.e., the end which
was nearest to the rootstock before being cut
away, are kept uppermost throughout. By laying
the root lengths in order as cut, no subsequent
confusion need exist on this head, and the work
of cutting up completed, the root-cuttings should
be forthwith inserted. The manner of dealing
with these cuttings subsequently is to prepare
some well-drained pots or pans, the former for
preference, and slightly more than half fill them
with rather sandy soil. At this point it will
be necessary to gauge the cuttings and to
determine whether more soil should be added to
the pots or some removed. Wlien the cuttings
arc inserted and the work completed, the apical
portion of the cutting should be just visible
above the surface of tlie soil and level with the
rim of the pot, the cuttings being placed around
the interior of the rim in a not quite upright
position. In this way the operator can judge
for himself as to the work being rightly done.
The cuttings should be placed around at about
a quarter of an inch apart or thereabouts, or at
a greater distance if there is no scarcity of
room. Wlien the root-cuttings are in position,
the remaining space sliould be filled with soil,
taking care not to displace the cuttings in doing
this. By malving tire soil of a sandy nature, new
root-fibres are more quickly formed when,
presently, top growth begins. The best position
for these pots of root-cuttings is in the grcenliouse
frame, where a slight warmth, say, of 45° or 50°,
obtains. Given one good watering wlien the
worli is completed, the pots in the position and
warmth suggested will require no more for a
fortnight. If no frame is at command, the pots
of cuttings may be plunged in fibre or sand in
pots of much larger size, and, by placing a sheet
of glass over all, secure that degree of uniformity
which is so desirable.
All tliat is now necessary is a little patience, and
a month or six weeks may elapse before any signs
of new life are seen from the apices of the
cuttings. First we see a swelling or callusing of
the surface, and subsequently miniature pro-
tuberances that develop into shoots, the latter
often appearing quite numerously. So much so
is this the case that in the larger-rooted species
of plants, such as Anchusa italica and the
Japanese Anemones, it has been found desirable
to halve or even quarter the roots longitudinally
before inserting them. The most serviceable
size of root is that about the equal of a cedar-
wood pencil for the largest, and say half
that size for the smallest. Th's way the largest
roots are secured to the plant. Though I have
recommended covering the cuttings with a glass
frame, care should be taken to ventilate now
and again and to avoid that wet, stagnant condition
which may give rise to decay rather than growth.
Forcing by an excess of heat is injurious, and will
merely produce the top shoots before any root-
fibres are present to sustain Ffe. Fleshy roots
full of vitality are essential ; old roots that have
become hard and wiry are usually valueless.
The after-treatment of these root-cuttings, and
when they shall have become little plants, is
simply that given to small seedlings requiring to
be individualised to produce the best results ;
and when this is done the genial conditions of a
frame or a greenhouse will be found highly
beneficial. There need be no hurry to do this,
however, and only when small leaves appear,
giving evidence of activity at the root, should
the work be taken in hand. A host of plants
respond to this particular treatment, but
I have no intention of preparing an exhaustive
list. A few of the most important, however, are
Anemone japonica, Anchusa, Gaillardia, Senecio
pulcher. Primula (the roots of which are small),
Stokesia, Eryngiura, Echinops, Statice and the
perennial Poppy, none of which, save the
Anemone, affords the least external evidence
of an amenability to respond to a method
of treatment which is as valuable to the gar-
dener as it is interesting and instructive to the
student. E. H. J.
NOTES ON GARNATIONS.
Propagating Perpetuals.— There exists such
a pronounced diversity of opinion regarding the
time most suitable for propagating Perpetuals
that a brief pronouncement on the benefit of
autumn propagation may be permitted before
proceeding to details. Those who, quite reason-
ably, defer propagation till after the New Year
opine that nothing is gained by rooting tlie plants
earlier, and that as much progress is made by
plants prepared on their system as by those
rooted in the autumn. Very much must depend
in either case on the condition of the plants that
provide tlie cuttings, and on the treatment the
young plants receive. It is obvious that, in the
less southerly parts of the country, plants which
have been in a glass structure for three to four
months cannot produce equally satisfactory
cuttings to plants which are only newly put
under house treatment ; and while it is true that
autumn-struck plants make very slight progress
up till Janu.ary, they do possess a decided advantage
in liaving a root economy far in advance of those
struck in that month, and this gives the young
plant when it is hard pinched a dynamic force
which produces a strong early framework, or
foundation, rather, that a late-rooted plant cannot
in the nature of things ever overtake. These
are the two chief points in which, in my opinion,
autumn propagation has the advantage of propa-
gation early in the year ; that is to say, a better
type of cuttings is available, and a healthier,
more robust type of plant results. I think, too,
that cuttings are rooted with more facility in the
autumn than at the more advanced period.
The Best Cuttings. — There is nothing new
that can be said regarding the shoots which
produce the best cuttings, long experience showing
how those produced well up the stems are the
most prolific of bloom. IVIoderately strong shoots
are to be preferred ; but it is not important, as
some think, to secure or retain a heel to the
cutting, one cut across under a joint, or, indeed,
above a joint, rooting quite as well, and usually
making a sliorter type of plant.
For the last year or two I have had the cuttings
put three in a 2i-inch pot in the usual sand, the
reason for this being that the rooted material
is more easy to handle. The pots are plunged
in a propagating-bed, the material kept wet and
the temperature 55° to 65°, roots being emitted
in time to permit removal from the propagating-
bed in twelve days onwards. It will be seen that
the cuttings are for so brief a period subjected to
what many would conclude to be a dangerous
heat that no harm can possibly come to the plants.
Cuttings Flagging. — Not a few beginners
fail at this early stage through allowing the cuttings
to flag. This is fatal. If the moisture is not
sufficient to provide against flagging, then glass
should be placed over them till roots are emitted.
No delay must occur after rooting and a few days*
subsequent hardening on a bench or stage in
potting the young stuff singly into 2i-inch pots,
using a sandy, open compost and merely knocking
tlie pots gently to settle the soil about the roots.
In a warm structure root action will begin at
once, and in a short time the plants should be
transferred to a cool structure, growth at this
time of the year being of no importance. Once
the soil in the 2i-inch pots is ramified by roots,
shift on without delay, and by no means indulge
in stopping. If stopped, only one or two
518
THE GARDEN.
[October 24, 1914.
breaks will be made, and these weak ones. Leave
this cultural expedient tiU January at the very
earliest, when breaks will be produced abundantly
and strong shonts follow. R. P. Brotherston.
THE AUTUMN TREATMENT
OF LAND.
{Continued from page 513.)
For Sowing or Planting in February and March.
Much land may not be ready lor cultivation till
the spring ; the following crops are suitable for
land that has been lying vacant during the winter.
Work may begin in Februar\- or as soon as
genial weather sets in :
1. Potatoes . . Early varieties.
2. Beans . . Broad and Kidney.
3. Peas . . Early and mid-
season.
4. Cauliflowers Early.
5. Round Spinach.
6. Spinach Beet.
1. Potatoes. — The land should
be thoroughly dug and forked dur-
ing the winter and worked into a
friable condition. The common
distance to plant for first-early
varieties is 4 inches in depth,
13 inches between the sets and
about 20 inches between the rows.
For midseason and late varieties
the sets may be 15 inches apart and
24 inches to 30 inches between the
rows. For further information see
Leaflet 173 on Potato Growing.
2. Broad Beans. — Plant 3jinches
to 4 inches deep, with 18 inches to
24 inches between the drills and
4 inches between the seeds.
Kidney Beans. — Plant 2 inches
deep, 2 inches to 4 inches apart
in the drill, and 18 inches to
27 inches apart in the rows. One
pound of seed will plant 150 feet
to 200 feet of drill,
3. Peas. — Sow in a flat drill from
2 inches to 3 inches in depth ac-
cording to soil — in stiff soil shallow,
and in light soil deep. Dwarf
varieties should be sown in rows
18 inches to 2 feet apart ; tall
varieties further apart according
to height. Early Peas require ilb.
to 70 feet of drill ; late varieties
lib. to 85 feet of drill.
4. Cauliflowers. — The distances
are the same as for Cabbage.
5. Round Spinach. — Sow loz. of seed to 65 feet
of drill, about i inch deep, in rows 12 inches to
15 inches apart.
6. Spinach Beet. — Sow as for Round Spinach, but
thin, out to 8 inches or lo inches apart in the rows.
Information as to the application of fertilisers
to these crops will be found in Leaflet 106.
CLASS B.— GOOD GRASS LAND BROKEN UP FOR
SPADE CULTIVATION.
A great extension of allotments and other hold-
ings imder spade cultivation may also take place.
Many acres of grass land might be utilised in this
manner, especially in the neighbourhood of large
towns. Such land must be treated in a different
way to the cultivated land described under the
previous heading.
In the first place the land should be bastard
trenched. To begin with, the turf should be
skimmed off in a thin layer 2 inches to 3 inches
in depth from a trench, which should be 18 inches
to 2 feet broad. The first spit of soil immediately
below the turf should be removed. The bottom
soil should then be stirred to a depth of 6 inches
with a pick, diggmg fork or spade according to the
nature of the subsoil. The turf layer from the
next trench should then be laid upside down on
the stirred bottom of the first trench, and the first
spit of soil placed above it. This process should
be continued till all the land has been dug over, the
turf and first spit of soil from the first trench being
used to level up the last. Land of this character
is often very fertile, and should give a good yield
THE CATMINT (NHPETA MUSSINIl) GROWING IN A DRY WALL,
of Potatoes or other planted crop the following
summer. It can, however, seldom be used for
crops raised from small seeds in the same year as
it is broken up, for two reasons — (i) unless the turf
is very good and free from weeds, the result of the
cultivation may bring up and favour the growth of
a number of weeds which have hitherto been kept
under. A good deal of hoeing may be necessary
to keep these dowai, and this may interfere with
the seedlings. (2) Old grass land is often infested
with wireworms (the yoimg of the click beetle) and
leather-jackets (the yoimg of the daddy-long-
legs). These insects may completely destroy the
crop as soon as it begins to grow. Treatment for
these pests is given in Leaflets 10 and 11, but as the I land is sown or planted with any
methodsadvisedmay not be available at the present I 0/ Agriculture's Special Leaflet No.
time, the land should be frequently hoed and the
weeds kept down so as to deprive the insects of
their food for some months. Lime may also be
worked into the laud.
CLASS C— DERELICT LAND.
In many districts fertile grass land will not be
available for cultivation by spade labour, and if
additional land is to be brought under tillage, poor
soil or waste land must be broken up. There are
many acres of land of this class available, especially
in the neighbourhood of large towns, but care is
needed in treating it if it is ever to bear a satis-
factory crop. The following treatment is recom-
mended : In the first place, all rank growth of
weeds should be cut down with a scythe. If the
weeds are of a soft nature, they might be put in
heaps with any availab:e grass for
making into a compost, or if
annuals and free from ripe seeds,
they may be dug in at once. If
of a fibrous or woody nature, they
should be burnt. The land might
then be skimmed and bastard
trenched as before advised, but the
greatest care must be taken (i) not
to bring the subsoil to the top, and
(2) to clear out the roots of such
weeds as Docks, Couch Grass,
Creeping Buttercup, Convolvulus,
Nettles, &c. Time spent in the
careful eradication of such weeds
will be well repaid.
Land of this character, when freed
from weeds and properly trenched,
will bear a useful crop the following
year if properly manured. As stab'e
or farmyard manure will probably
not be available in such places, it
will be necessary to supply the
plant food from other sources. The
chief ingredients required to secure
satisfactory growth are (i) nitrogen,
(2) potash, (3) phosphates. Nitrogen
can be supplied by digging in all soft
vegetable matter such as grass,
leaves of trees, and decaying vege-
table matter of any sort. The
manure of any kind of animal may
be used. Poultry and pig manure
should be well mixed with earth on
removal from the pens or sties before
applying it to the land. Potash
may be supplied by collecting and
burning all kinds of woody material,
such as hedge clippings, prunings
from trees, &c. The ash should
be carefully saved in bags and kept
dry. It is especially useful on land
that is to be cropped with Potatoes.
Seaweed is a valuable potash manure, and should
be collected at all rocky sea coasts (see Leaflet
No. 254). Phosphates will not be easy to supply
from natural sources, unless large quantities of
fish waste are available, but phosphatic fertilisers
such as basic slag, superphosphate and bone-meal
should be easily procurable through the usual trade
sources. Lime will be required in many cases, and .
should always be applied to rich pastures after
breaking up. It should be worked into the surface
layer when the land is dug. The advice as to
insect pests and weeds tmder Class B applies with
even greater force to this class of land, and great
care should be taken to get rid of both before the
crop. — Board
I.
'JEStT-t'E^^fcf
October 24, 1914.J
THE GARDEN.
519
DRY WALLS IN SUMMER
AND WINTER.
IN common with most other features of the
outdoor garden, the dry wall is more
beautiful and interesting during the summer
months than in winter ; yet where proper
thought is given to winter effect, quite
good results can be obtained even durin;.,
the shortest days. There are a number of plants
wliich are beautiful at both seasons, one of the best
known, perhaps, being Cerastium tomentosum.
In the accompanying illustration, which represents
dry walls during the early summer, a large cluster
of this is shown just to the right of the bold stone
that come to mind as being suitable for adding
splashes of colour and some considerable interest
to the dry wall during the winter season. In
tlie other illustration we see a particularly useftU
plant for winter effect, viz., the Catmint (Nepeta
Mussinii). This is beautiful in sunrmer when
laden with its lavender blue flowers, while in
winter its glaucous-hued foliage harmonises well
with that of our garden Pinks. G. B.
FINGER AND TOE DISEASE
IN GREEN CROPS.
The past summer has been particularly favourable
for the spread of the disease of Cabbages, Cauli-
At tliis time of the year the swollen roots rot
in the ground and the fungus granulates and
forms myriads of spores, whicli escape into tlie
soil ready to attack future crops. It is important
that measures should be taken at once to remove
all plants that are badly attacked, also all stalks
of Cabbage, Cauliflowers and otiier greens from
which tlie heads have been gathered. The diseased
roots should be burned at once, and not thrown
into heaps to decay, as is too often the case.
Another method of checking the spread of tlie
disease is during the autumn to dress the land
on which Brassicas are to be grown next year
with quicklime at the rate of about half a bushel
to 30 square yards. Earth-slaked lime is the
best form to apply, althougli ground wliite lime
A DRY WALL AND STONE STEPS IN SUMMER. MANY OF THE PLANTS WOULD ALSO BE BEAUTIFUL IN WINTER.
steps, its small white blossoms being borne in
such profusion as to give rise to the popular
name of " Snow in Summer." In winter this
plant would be a mass of silvery grey foliage
that would contrast well with darker-hued plants
that surround it. Pinks of many kinds, especially
the old common Double White, may also be
employed for the same purpose. Then there
is the grey-leaved Cotton Lavender, the foliage
of which is beautiful at all seasons. Saxifraga
apiculata, which often opens its pale yellow flowers
in January ; dwarf Lavender bushes ; Cotoneaster
microphyUa, with scarlet berries, to be planted in
the soil at the base of the wall; Wallflowers of the
Early Paris type ; Edelweiss, with grey foliage ; and
the Cobweb Houseleek, which likes a dry position
sheltered from heavy rains, are a few others
flowers and other Brassicas. The exceptionally dry
weather has had the effect of checking the growth of
the plants, and they have been unable to resist
the attack. The diseased condition of the plants is
so well known that a description is unnecessary.
The disease is caused by a fungus (Plasmodium
brassicae) which exists in the soil during the winter
(and, indeed, if no suitable host is present, for
several years) in the form of minute spores. These
spores are taken up by the roots of plants belonging
to the Cabbage family, and once inside the roots
they form a Plasmodium or jelly-like substance,
which feeds upon the contents of the cells. The
presence of this foreign substance sets up an
irritation which causes excessive growth to take
place in the roots, eventually forming the swellings
known as club, or finger and toe.
is very good. It is important that the lime
should be dug into the ground as quickly as possible,
as exposure to the air causes deterioration. Gas-
lime is helpful in checking the fungus, but it
should be exposed to the air for several months
before digging it into the soil, in order to get rid
of the poisonous compounds which are always
present in fresh gas-lime.
Earth-slaked lime is obtained by placing the
lump lime in heaps over the bed to be treated,
completely covering each heap for a few days
with earth. Under these conditions the slaking
takes place gradually and in the partial absence
of air. For use it is only necessary to remove the
earth covering and dig the powdered lime into
the soil, scattering a little in each trench as the
work proceeds. A. E. B.
520
THE GARDEN.
[October 24, 1914.
THE LITTLE GARDEN.
FURTHER PRIZE DESIGNS IN OUR
COMPETITION.
IX last week's issue all the first prize designs
and some others "were shown, and we now
reproduce a further
series. The five
plans for Site No. I, ' ' •'-'-
given at the foot
of this page, show very ~'^=
well what a large variety _ ^■'
of treatment is possible ^ _ — .
even within such narrow
limits as are afforded
by a Kttle suburban
garden .
The second prize for
Site No. I was awarded
to llr. Burnett Orphoot.
The feature of it is the
skill with which a long
grass alley has been
secured on the south side
of tlie house. This would
yield a very pretty little
vista from the seat under
the trees in the main
garden. The seat at the end ot the grass alle\
would only be satisfactory when the roadside
hedge had grown up. Otherwise the front garden is
too much cut up and the borders are too narr iw
The bed of Tree Pseonies is rather a disturbing
element on the main lawn, and the planting
scheme for the circular beds is not very well
conceived. The hedge treatment at the back
cutting off the little space for frames and small
crops, is well managed, and the herbaceous borders
are adequate in width.
The third prize for Site Xo. i, like the
second prize for Site Xo. 3, went to oue of our
.\nierican readers, Jliss Elizabeth Leonard of
Cambridge, Massachusetts. Her practical outlook
on the problem is shown by her provision of a
drying - yard. This is somewhat imperfectly
sfT'-eued from the garden by a Sweet Pea
.-.. Wf :.# ",-Xn, -^'3^^^
bITE NO 2 PERSPECTI\t OF
bECOND PRIZE DESIGN BY I
GRWT BROWN'
trellis
w h 1 L h
would
not be
protective
except
during the
summer,
and the
spectacle
<^«
It would have been better if this drying-
yard had been disposed at the end of the site.
The stepping-stones provided in the grass
on the south side of the house are not found in
gardens of good English practice, but would be
practical on soft ground. The tool-house and
frames are neatly placed, and the vegetable
garden divided well
from the flower garden
- v" by a Privet hedge. The
front garden is shapely ;
but Miss Leonard's
weak spot in this, as in
other of her designs, is
the extreme narrowness
of her paths. Taken as
a whole, however, the
design is thoroughly .
satisfactor)', because it
does not attempt ton
much, a common fault
on very small sites, and 1
it could be well managed
by a householder 'jf
small means.
Of the designs for ,
Site No. I to which
book prizes were
awarded, we now illus-
trate three.
Mr. .-Archie Paton
has erred in the direc- ,
tion of cutting up too
much the space at h'S|
disposal. Within such|
narrow limits such aj
feature as a sunk,
garden should n o 1 1
very I have been attempted, especially as it neces-
^2^^^-- ]^_
of the linen would not be
agreeable to the neighbours on the north side. 1 sitates a little system of drainage to prevent
^
t^^SS
.6-
p.
enTMLNcc Q>n
Second Fnz-. — B. N. K. Orphoot. Third Prize. — Elizabeth Leonard.
Book Prize. — Archie Putoii.
ttnvftcc cATi
IMTWANCI! CMTZ
Book Pnz,>—B. M. Conj.
Book Prize. — Isabel Harding.
FIVE SCHEMES FOR SITE NO. I.
October 24, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
521
,vV~.T-.- —
it becoming a morass. A good point, however,
is the arrangement of the garden on the
axial line of the drawing-room garden door,
with the vista terminating in a seat backed
by a hedge. Behind this Iiedge is a little
plot for vegetables and frames and a wash-
ing-green. The latter provision is typical of
Scotland, where it is almost always made.
Mr. Paton has arranged his entrance differ-
ently from most competitors, in that lie puts
the gate at the nortli-west corner of the
site, and thus avoids cutting up the little garden
in front.
Miss B. M. Cory's scheme is extremely simple,
and she makes no attempt at providing any
vegetable space. The treatment of tlie main
garden is shapely enough with Its broad borders
flanking a grass plot studded with standard
Roses. This leads to a little space with a sundial
flanked by segmental Rose-beds. The main
defect of the scheme is that too mucli bedding
space is provided. There are borders on each
side of the grass strips aj; the front and
south side of the house, as well as those of
varying width which are all round the main
garden.
Another scheme much on the same lines, but
more carefully worked out, is that by Miss Isobel
Harding. She makes a main feature of eight
shower Roses in circular beds, each approached
separately from the main path whicli leads up
the middle of the site. The shapely Yew hedge
is a pleasant feature, and provides a suitable
screen for a frame on one side and a few trees
on the other. The curved outline of the raised
borders makes a change, but the scale of the
garden is really too small for little refinements
of this kind. Good use is made of the south wall
of the house for the growth of Plums. The
entrance is well managed, and, assuming a
good growth for the hedges, the space to
the right of the gate would make a pleasant little
garden.
The second prize for Site No. 2 went to Miss 1.
drant Brown, and we show her design by the
perspective which accompanied the plan. It
represents the view whicli would be seen from the
chief rooms of the house. Tlie scheme sliows skill
and thought. Good garden pictures are seen from
the dining-room and drawing-room across the brick-
paved terrace and eastwards to the hedge which
screens the lawn from the Rose garden. The kitchen
garden is well screened by a Yew hedge running
east and west, and is provided with a broad
2. THIRD PRIZE DESIGN BY HUGH
DI.XON.
herbacfjus border. It was a pretty thought
to provide a children's garden in the north-east
comer of the site, and to place the garden-house
in relation to it and also to the Rose garden.
Practical considerations have not been forgotten,
for the frames are disposed in a space enclosed
by a hedge. Miss Grant Brown's planting plans
were thoroughly well considered, but the pro-
%';sion of a standard Holly on the brick-paved
space outside the main sitting-room is a doubtful
feature.
In the Cise of Site No. 2 the third prize was
won by Mr. Hugh Dixon. The design is simple
and straightforward, and its chief defect is that
the treatment of the lawn bears no very direct
relation to the house. In a garden of this
size, moreover, it is vcrv desirable that the
to the position of the pergola. This feature has
achieved an immense popularity in English gardens,
but its purpose and character are not always well
conceived. It should ideally be used as a con-
necting link between two or more definite points
in house or garden. It is appropriate, for example,
to build a pergola leading from a house verandah
to a summer-house. In the case of this plan,
however, the pergola occupies a detached position,
dividing the two parts of the kitchen garden and
connecting an isolated arch with a not very attrac-
five shed. Nevertheless, the competitor has
deserved his prize by reason of the simple and
unlaboured way in which he has utilised the
site.
For Site No. 3 the third prize was won by llr.
Kenneth Dalgliesh. This design is dominat- d
by the tennis court, which is correctly placed
north and south. The flower-beds to the wsst
of it are a somewhat doubtful feature. They
would look rather patchy, and a continuous border
would be more restful. The north end of the
lawn is prettily provided with a seat and a statue
of Pan, backed by buttressed Yew hedges con-
nected by groups of Planes or Califomian Limfs,
and attractively shown by a perspective to be
reproduced next week. This feature would
look well as seen from the library and ,
drawing-room windows. The verandah is con- ;
nected with a little garden-house by a long,
pergola, which divides the lawn from the|
flower parterre to the east. Backing the j
SITE NO. 3.-
. . — — 145 0 —
-THIRD PRIZE DESIGN BY KENNETH DALGLIESH.
area to be treated should be subdivided some-
what by walls, trellises or hedges, so that the
eye may not take in the whole scheme at one
sweep. There is no more valuable quality in
garden designmg than a touch of surprise. The
visitor should be led from one point to another
with a sense of expectancy, but that feeling would
not be aroused in the garden which Mr. Dixon
has designed. Criticism may also be directed
smik Rose parterre and dividing it from the
vegetable garden is another arrangement of
hedges, either Privet or Beech, neatly composed
with a well-head. The vegetable garden is well
screened from the road by a rank of standard
fruit trees, and due provision has been made
for frames and potting sheds.
Further designs wiU be illustrated next
week. L- W.
522
THE GARDEN.
[October 24, 1914.
ROSE-GROWING IN TOWN
GARDENS.
Roses from Cuttings. — Of the several ways
of propagating Roses, striking cuttings is by far
the easiest, and therefore commends itself par-
ticularly to the town gardener whose time is limited.
It is true that only the most vigorous varieties
are likely to succeed and give satisfaction when
increased in this way, but as these should form
the major part of the townsman's stock, the
method is often useful to him. It is an exceedingly
simple process, which has frequently been described,
and the directions need only be gone over here
in order to emphasise those points which ensure
success.
A Cutting is prepared from seasoned wood
of the current ^-ear which has been removed
Best Varieties for Cuttings. — Those that are
e4pfc:.dly suitable for raising in the manner
described are the Wichuraiana, Multiflora and
other climbers, as well as Hybrid Teas or
Hybrid Perpetual Roses of rampant growth,
such as Hugh Dickson, Frau Karl Druschki,
J. B. Clark, Ulrich Brunner and Mme. Abel
Chatenay.
Layering. — Another useful method of raising
own-r-njt Ri;ises is to peg down and layer branches
just in the same way as one does with Carnations,
forming a " tongue " where the stem is bent
upwards by half severing the shoot in an oblique
direction just below an eye. This tongue must
be pressed well down into some sandy soil, and
the shoot must be carefully tied into position
so that it does not move. When rooting has
commenced, it may be severed from the parent
stem. Here, again, it is important to note that
HINTS
ON PLANTING
ROSES.
M
A G.\RDEN OF ROSES. NOW IS THE TIME TO PL.\XT FOR NEXT YEAR S EFFECTS
with a heel and is then trimmed by having the
lower leaves removed. The top should be cut
off, leaving the shoot from g inches to 12 inches
long when ready for planting. A drill is made
by cutting down about six inches with the spade
and pulling it over slightly so that a V-shaped
opening is made, in the bottom of which about
half an inch of sand should be placed. The
cuttings must be planted so that the base (or
heel) of each rests firmly on the sand. During
the winter months they should be looked over
occasionally, and any that have been loosened
by the action of frost must be pressed down and
made firm again. By the following spring the
base of each cutting will have callused over,
and if the earth is then kept slightly moist, roots
should be emitted during the summer. The
best position for the bed is under a wall facing
north, for it is important that the cuttings should
be shaded when tliey are commencing to root.
the soil must be kept moist during the ensuing
summer.
Division. — There is yet another method of
increasing one's Roses which I have found
particularly useful in dealing with Dwarf
Poly ant has. These are for the most part of
very free growth, producing basal shoots in
great profusion, and if used for an edging to
beds of otlier Roses it is not desirable that
they should occupy too much space. In
November those that have becohie bush\-
should be carefully lifted, and they will
generally be found to have emitted roots
from the bases of several large growths,
whicli will allow of each being separated
into two or three good-sized plants. If this
is done with the secateurs, care being taken
not to injure the roots, the growth of each
piece should be fully equal to that of the parent
plant. P. L. GoDDARD.
CiST amateurs are apt to afford Roses-
too rich a soil when planting, and
as the season is close upon us
once more, I would like to give
a few practical hints, resulting
from careful observations and ex-
perience among these popular flowers. Thers
is one piece of advice in the cultural directions
of almost all catalogues that needs a little qualifica-
tion or explaining. They advise deeply dug and
well-manured soUs, and end by saying : " In fact,
it is difficult to give the Rose too rich a soil." When
growing strongly and able to assimilate such food,
I agree with them ; but not until the roots are
well established would I dress the soil so heavily
as it is often treated. Digging
the ground deeply and apply-
ing a good 'ot of manure to
the bottom soil, which we can
never reach again, are correct
enough ; but it is more bene-
ficial, as well as economical,
to apply surface-dressings,
and lightly fork these in when
the roots are in a condition
to assimilate the nutriment at
once. I have known the soil
so strong that the new roots
could not even get a satisfac-
tory start, and the whole had
to lose much of its strength
before they could forge ahead,
simply because it was too
strong in the first place.
There is another pouit not
sufficiently bonie in mind ;
that is, to supply manures
more suitable to the soil.
What will suit a light, sandy
compost is by no means so
good for a stiff and heavy soil.
The latter needs soot, wood-
ashes and a little bone-meal ;
also lighter animal manures,
such as that from the stable.
On the contrarj-, 'we should
make use of night soil, pig
and cow n^anure upon a light
and porous soil.
The necessary drainage
must be attended to upon
wet and cold soils, or all other labour and ex-
pense is more or less wasted. The time of plant-
ing is also of importance, and this a little in accord-
ance with the nature of 5'our soil. If naturally
wet and cold, I would prefer early spring, choosmg
autumn or very early winter in the case of drier
ground. Should the plants carry much wood,
I would shorten this back at the time of planting ;
not exactly prmie them, but lessen the strain upon
the roots by cutting away about half of the wood,
It is not wanted, for it is much safer to closely
prune all Roses the first season of planting, and we
may as well reduce long shoots now.
Do not choose highly fed plants with coarse
and sappy growth ; rather aim for medium-
sized plants carrj'ing riper and better-matured
wood. Cut off any coarse or bruised roots,
plant firmly, and be sure the junction of stock
and Rose is a couple of inches below the-
surface. A. P.
f
October 24, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
523
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruit Under Glass.
Cucumber Plants from which winter supplies
are expected should now have reached the top
of the trellis, and may he allowed to carry a few
fruits, but nothing beyond what is necessary
for the daily supply should be allowed to remain
on the plants during the winter. Let the young
Cucumbers be pinched off while quite small, so
that they do not tax the energy of the plants.
Constant attention to stopping and tying will
be necessary, so that the foliage may not become
crowded. Remove rough, overgrown leaves as
it becomes necessary to make room for young
fruiting shoots, which may be stopped at the
first or second leaf beyond the fruit, according
to the space available.
Peach Trees. — The pruning, washing and
tying of permanent trees in the early Peach-house
should be accomplished as soon as possible.
Remove as much of the old wood as can be spared
before the trees are untied, also shoots which have
become too gross to bear fruit. The trees may
then be carefully washed with soft soap and water,
and if mealy bug is present in the house, the
trellis and walls must be washed with some insecti-
cide of sufficient strength to destroy it. While
this is being done, care must be taken to keep
it from coming in contact with the trees or the
border.
Plants Under Glass.
Pelargoniums. — Young plants of show and
decorative Pelargoniums which were rooted
during the summer should now be ready for potting
into 5-inch pots. The compost may consist of
two-thirds sandy loam, and the remainder of
leaf-soil and dried cow-manure, with sufficient
sharp sand to keep the soil open. Pot moderately
firmly in well-crocked pots, and place the plants
in a pit where sufficient fire-heat can be applied
to exclude frost. When the roots have pene-
trated the new soil, ventOation must be freely
given to keep the plants hard and stocky.
Old plants which were recently potted will also
require free ventilation with the same object in
view.
Carnations. — The Tree Carnations will now be
flowering freely, and should receive careful atten-
tion with regard to tying and watering. Prick
up the smrface of the soil and apply frequent
light dressings of artificial manure previous to
watering with clear soft water. Ventilate the
house freely in order to produce good, healthy
growth. Sufficient fire-heat ought to be applied
to keep the night temperature at 50°.
Chrysanthemums. — Many of the large-flowering
varieties are opening, and will require a good
deal of attention to obtain the best results. Keep
the atmosphere of the house moderately dry and
ventilate freely when the weather permits. If foggy
weather sets in, a little fire-heat may be applied
to keep the air dry. All late-flowering varieties
should be given a liberal supply of stimulants
to plump up the buds. Ventilate the house freely
and only apply fire-heat to exclude frost.
The Flower Garden.
Dahlia Tubers, Gladioli, Salvia patens and
tuberous Begonias should all be lifted from the
flower garden and placed in some dry, frost-
proof shed for the winter. The Salvia roots are
test placed in boxes of dry sand. Cut the stems
to within 6 inches of the ground before the plants
are lifted.
Roses. — If new plantations of Roses are con-
templated, there is no better time than the month
■of November to accomplish the work. The
ground for the purpose should be trenched as
^oon as possible, and a good dressing of farmyard
manure applied. The beds may then be left
to settle before planting takes place.
Sweet Peas in Pots. — The present is a good
time to sow Sweet Peas in pots for planting in
the open garden during the spring. Three or
fom: seeds will be sufficient for each pot, and when
the plants are through the surface they should
be placed quite close to the glass in a cool pit
and freely ventilated during suitable weather.
In favourable districts the seeds may be sown
in the open, but a warm south border should be
chosen for them, and great care will be necessary
to protect them from slugs and mice.
The Rock Garden. — Any alterations which are
contemplated in the rock garden should be accom-
plished as soon as possible, and any plants which
have been propagated during the summer and
are considered quite hardy may be placed in
position at once, leaving the most tender subjects
under a hand-light or cold frame until the spring.
If dry weather continues, many of the plants in
exposed positions will require water. Fallen
leaves and decaying matter of all kinds should
be removed, or some of the most tender plants
may be lost in consequence. Keep the sur-
roundings quite free from weeds by the frequent
use of a small hoe.
The Kitchen Garden.
Asparagus-Beds. — As soon as the growths
are sufficiently ripe, they should be cut to within
a few inches of the ground and burned. The
surface of the beds may then be lightly pricked
over in readiness for a dressing of farmyard manure,
which should be allowed to remain on for the
winter.
Cabbage. — A second plantation of Cabbage
should be made now to provide supplies for use in
April and May. If sharp weather prevails during
the winter, this may prove a more serviceable crop
than the earliest plantation.
Winter Salad. — To ensure a full supply of
salad durmg the winter, all empty frames must
be filled at once with plants of Lettuce and Endive,
which should be carefully lifted from the open
garden. A thorough soaking of water ought to
be given several hours before the plants are lifted,
and again after they are placed in the frames.
If box frames are available, they may be placed
over salad plants growing in the open. Chicory
may also be lifted and placed in some dark chamber
with sufficient heat to start the roots into growth.
If only a small supply is necessary, the roots may
be potted and covered with an inverted pot of
the same size, which may also be covered with
leaves in order to ensure complete darkness.
Mustard and Cress should be sown weekly in
quantities according to demand.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Runner Beans. — Now that the supply of Beans
as a green vegetable will be finished, so far at
least as outside plants are concerend, the plants
should be gone over, gathering all pods that have
been allowed to mature. Where economy has to
be practised, a number of the best of these should
be saved for seed purposes. These must be stored
where they will dry slowly. The seeds should be
taken from the other pods and cooked ; they
make a most delicious dish.
Horseradish. — As the weather becomes colder
the demand for Horseradish increases, and instead
of digging a root here and there, as is usually done,
it woiild be better to dig up a few rows, if not the
entire plantation, and store the roots in sand
where they can easily be got at when wanted.
It will be advisable to grade the roots, selecting
the largest for the season's demand ; while the
secondary roots should be stored separately for
spring planting, much after the style of treating
Seakale.
Asparagus. — It may seem early in the season
to think about the forcing of this excellent vege-
table, but as the craze of the day is for variety
and things out of season, it is none too early to
consider the forcing of Asparagus. Treated on
proper lines it is doubtful if we realise how accom-
modating this vegetable is for forcing purposes.
Assummg that the cro%vns are thoroughly matured,
a few may be lifted at any time after this date and
placed in boxes in any heated structiure and heavily
shaded. It is surprising how soon a sufficient
quantity for a nice dish can be cut. It should be
remembered that Asparagus roots suffer very much
if exposed to the air for any length of time, so that
the sooner they are planted after being lifted the
better.
The Flower Garden.
Planting Roses. — .\lthnugh these may be
planted more or less successfully from now till
the beginning of March, there is no doubt that
the earlier they are planted the better the results.
Herbaceous Plants. — Most of these will now
have passed out of flower, and a careful note should
be made of those that need to be replanted.
Unless the border has been regularly top-dressed,
these plants soon become exhausted, and conse-
quently the growths become weak and the flowers
small. Where it is not possible to replant the
entire border, much can be done by reducing
the stronger-growing plants that are encroaching
on the others and cutting away all dead stems.
As has frequently been pointed out, the choicer
subjects had better not be disturbed till the
spring. All plants should, if possible, be correctly
named, and as wooden labels rarely last more
than two seasons, these ought to be renewed
as occasion requires.
Plants Under Glass.
Schizanthuses. — ^Those plants that are intended
to make large specimens should now be put into
their flowering pots, and as these plants are rather
free-growing, the compost should contain some
good loam, with the addition of some artificial
manure. After potting, the plants ought to
be placed in a cool house not far from the glass,
and for a time little or no water will be required.
Primulas. — The majority of these, whether
of the obconica or sinensis type, should now be
placed in a house where the temperature can be
maintained at about 50°. The earliest of these will
now be well established in their flowering pots,
and may be given some weak liquid manure.
Plants intended for flowering later should be
potted on and placed near the glass. As Primulas
suffer from damping, the atmosphere must be
kept fairly dry.
Humea elegans. — ^These are possibly the most
fastidious plants in the greenhouse to bring safely
through the winter. No matter how strong and
healthy the plants may seem, the slightest neglect
in watering will most assuredly tell against them.
Therefore it will be necessary to keep a watchful
eye on them during the next three months, and,
as has already been pointed out, use the water-pot
with caution.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Morello Cherries. — The pruning and cleansing
of these trees ought to be proceeded with at once,
in order that a great part of this work may be
completed before very severe weather sets in.
Where the trees have been infested with spider
or other vermin, they should be entirely taken
down and treated in the same way as Peaches.
In pruning, all shoots that have borne fruit ought
to be cut away, thinning out the others to not
less than 4 inches apart. Unhealthy trees should
have a little of the soil removed round the stem,
replacing this with some good loam and burnt
clay.
Loganberries. — ^The last of the fruit will now
have been gathered, and unless the yotmg growths
were thinned out during the growing season,
the result will be a perfect tangle. These should
be thiimed out at once to give the remaining
shoots a chance of ripening before severe weather
sets in.
Fruit Under Glass.
Peaches. — A start should now be made with
the pruning and training of the earliest varieties.
If the trees were disbudded properly during the
summer, very little pruning ought to be necessary
now. Assuming that the house and trees have
been washed, as I have frequently pointed out.
the trees should be tied up. In doing so, endeavour
as far as possible to have them well balanced,
and for this purpose do not hesitate to cut away
all strong-growing growths that would be likely
to run away from the others.
Strawberries. — Plants intended for forcing will
by this time have filled the pots with roots, so
that careful watering will be necessary, especially
on fine days. If these are allowed to become
dry once or twice, it almost spells ruin. On the
appearance of hard frost the pots should be
plunged up to the rims in ashes, when the plants
can be taken in to force as required.
John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopeloun Gardens, South Queensferry, N.B.
524
THE GARDEN.
[October 24, 1914-
BULBS FOR PRESENT
PLANTING.
DURING the past few weeks nearly
, e\'ery post has brought us catalogues
I of " Bulbs for Autumn Planting,"
' lists that remind us only too vividly
that summer has flown and that
the dreary days of winter will soon
be upon us. Unfortunately for our gardens, and
incidentally for the bulb merchants, these cata-
logues are, in the enjoyment of our summer flowers,
too often put aside till a later date, or it may be
they are entirely forgotten until a clearing-out
of sundry useless material in the spring brings
them to light, when it is, alas ! too late to plant
the many bulbous flowers without which our
spring gardens would lose a great deal of their
charm. The distribution of bulb catalogues
during September is not, as many would suppose,
due to any ulterior motives on the part of the bulb
merchant ; he is not trying to steal a march on
his competitors, but he knows only too well that
if we would get the very best from the goods he
offers, they ought to be planted as early as possible
after this date. It does not, of course, necessarily
follow that they will be entire failures if not planted
until considerably later ; but there is everything
to be gained by consigning these dried-looking
roots to Mother Earth as early as possible in the
autumn.
Where such bulbs as Daffodils, Hyacinths and
Tulips are used for bedding, it may be impossible
to plant them yet ; the beds are still, owing to the
mild weather, resplendent in their summer array,
but, frost or no frost, they must soon be cleared.
In the meantime there is a large host of smaller
and lesser-known bulbs that may very well be
planted without disturbing other kinds of flowers,
and it is to these that I would call particular
attention. The majority are specially suited for
planting towards the front of a shrubbery, in beds
of deciduous shrubs, in rock garden nooks, or,
indeed, in almost any position where flowers of
lowly stature will be appreciated during the early
days of the year.
Undoubtedly one of the most pleasing, and the
earliest of all to flower, is the so-called Winter
Aconite (Eranthis hyemalis). Before January is
far advanced the Buttercup-like flowers, each with
its frilled green ruff, are studding the greensward
of our lawns or carpeting the shrub-beds, reminding
us that winter at last is fleeting and that Nature
is slowly but surely awakening. But this little
flower must be planted early, and planted in
colonies. It thrives well almost anywhere, and
is particularly pleasing in grass. Close upon it
come the Snowdrops, the glistening white flowers of
which are loved by everyone. Like the Winter
Aconite, they thrive almost anywhere, but for
naturalising in grass the common one, Galanthus
nivalis, should be chosen. For rock garden nooks
or shrub-beds the larger-flowered G. Elwesii may
be planted freely. There are a number of other
and choicer kinds, but for all ordinary purposes
these two Snowdrops will suffice. Almost at the
same time the beautiful little early Squills com-
mence to open their dainty blue flowers. First
comes the Two-leaved Squill (Scilla bifolia), to be
followed by its near relatives the Chionodoxas,
the best known of which is the charming little
Glory of the Snow (C. Luciliae), and subsequently
by the rich blue Scilla sibirica. We cannot well
have too many of these early flowering Squills
and Chionodoxas in our gardens, and as the bulbs
are cheap, they may well be planted with a lavish
hand. In addition to those already named,
mention must be made of Chionodoxa sardensis,
the gem of the whole family and one that flowers
very early. In common with the other species it
seeds freely, and will multiply rapidly if left well
alone.
Then what shall we say of the dwarf Wind-
flowers such as Anemone apennina and A. blanda ?
Both have delightful blue flowers, and I never
could make up my m'nd which I liked best. So
often the failure to grow these successfully is
attributed to various mundane causes, when it is
the date of planting that is at fault. The curious
little tubers become badly shrivelled if left out
of the ground long, and their stamina is thereby
considerably diminished. Plant them freely and
early in well-drained but not over-dry soil, and
subsequently leave them well alone. They will
thrive in grass or under the shade of deciduous
trees, while colonies of them in the rock garden
produce an effect in April of which few other plants
are capable. Then there is our wild Anemone
(A. nemorosa), with its dainty white flowers, and
also Robinson's variety of the same, with pale
blue blossoms. Both ought to find a place in our
gardens, especially in woodland glens, where they
are perfectly in keeping with the siu-roundings.
The Crocus family gives us a wealth of flowers
from late autumn right on until spring is well
under way, and it is necessary to get the corms
of all kinds planted as early as possible. A
dainty little plant that I have grown for
some years, but which I seldom find in other
gardens, is the Lebanon Squill (Puschkinia
libanotica), sometimes catalogued as P. scilloides
compacta. The flowers are white, striped soft
blue, and, though small, remind one of a piece of
old, rare china. Then there are the itfuscaris, or
Grape, Starch or Feather Hyacinths, the gem of
which is Heavenly Blue, though there are several
others, notably azureum and conicum, that are
well worth growing. A careful perusal of a bulb
catalogue will reveal other comparatively little-
known bulbous plants that ought to find a home
in our gardens ; but they must be planted at once
and, in the majority of cases, lavishly. Isolated
Snowdrops and Crocuses, for instance, lose their
charm. S. X.
ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
icavL's miiy Ix' cut by severe frost, thouszli, if you plant
the tut>ors in drills 2 inches deep, the latter would be
safe enough. When sowng seeds of these Anemone?^
it is advisable to sow In drills in the open trround in light
soil, and, in the event of very severe weather, to protect
with litter for the first season. Wun the tubers arc
larj:;e enough, they may be planted at a suflScient depth—
4 inches to 5 inches — to be out of the way of frost.
Generally speaking, however, the tubers arc hardy.
IRIS OCHROLEUCA (Whyke). —This species "is most
erratic in its behaviour, and varies considerably in different
districts and soils of a most opposite character. We
have, indeed, grown and flowered it quite well in moist,
as also singularly dry f-oils, the latter, however, always
well enriched by manure. One thing is certain — it is
impatient of removal, and it requires also to be fairly well
established before it flowers at all. The root decay
points to insect pests, and the roots and soil should be
examined for insects of the millipede tribe. If these are
present in any number, it is highly probable that they
have been boring the rhizomes, the large, fleshy roots
of which the plant is composed. Should such exist,
your best remedy would be trapping with Potatoes cut
in halves or slices and buried an inch or fo in the soil,
marking their positions so that they may be examined
at will. In good health the plant remains green many
weeks after flowering. This year, however, the exceptional
heat and drought has militated against longevity. IS
this reply does not meet the case, perliaps you could
send a root for our inspection.
THE GREENHOUSE.
CHRYSANTHEMUMS MILDEWED {W. fl.).— Your
Chrysanthrniunis appear to be attacked by mildew,
and w recommend spraying every week with a solu-
tion of an ounce of potassium sulphide in three gallons of
water. It is unwise to use the solution stronger than this,
as there is some danger of damage to the foliage otherwise.
HEATING SMALL GREENHOUSE (W. H.).— There
is no doubt that for a small greenhouse such as that named
by you an oil lamp, or, rather, stove, would prove satis-
factory. The main point is that it be kept perfectly
cban and the house ventilated whenever possible. The
best oil, too, must be used. There are various appliances
for the purpose, in which a few pipes that do not need
any fitting are disposed after the fashion of a radiator,
and are heated by a lamp.
TO FLOWER DENDROBIUM FIMBRIATUM (L. F. B.).
— ^Dendrobium flmbriatum is always very shy in flowering.
The only way to induce it to bloom in a satisfactory
manner is, after making its new growth, to keep it as dry
as possible and a little cooler in order to give it a period
of rest. After this, when returned to its former situation,
it should then bloom from the last bulb (not the new one),
while it will sometimes flower from very old bulbs, as
D. dalhousianum does, usually about the month of July.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS. ~TAe Editor endeavours
to make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object makes a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, M\C. The name and addrens
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly nunibered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher.
;flower garden.
ST. BRIGID ANEMONES (H. 0. £.).— In ordinary
circumstances the better way would be, if the seedlings
have only recently vegetated, to retain them in the boxes,
give them cold frame protection for the winter, and plant
them out in March next or when all fear of severe frosts
has passed. On the other hand, if you have to deal
with a light, well-drained soil and a sheltered situation,
the young plants may be put out at once. Some of the
rose garden.
ASHES AS PROTECTION FOR ROSES {J. C. S.).—
The ashes obtained by burning garden refuse would
answer for protecting Rose bushes during the winter,
but coal-ashes or burnt earth, owing to their greater
porosity, would bo better. Ashes from garden refuse
are e.xcellent manure, being rich in potash. The ordinary
soil, unless very heavy clay, if drawn up over the stems
of the Roses in the form of a mound, mak66 a good
protection.
ROSES FAILING (X.). — Black spot appears to be
a disease that when once established becomes difficult
to eradicate. We advise you to replant your Roses
this autumn after we have had a good rain, and in renewing
the beds give a good dressing of basic slag to the lower
soil at the rate of 6oz. to the square yard. Have the
surface 2 inches or 3 inches of soil removed and burnt,
as the spores of the black spot are sure to be present
there. Any healthy-looking plants — that is, those whose
roots are sound — could be cut back hard and replanted,
and the sickly plants replaced with good English-grown
liuslies grown in exposed fields. The Lyon Rose is badly
adilicted to black spot, but we should not have expected
it upon Mme. Ravary and Mme. A. Chatenay. Certainly
Prince do Bulgarie would he superior in growth to Lyon
Rose. We can recommend Cissie Easlea as one free from
any disease, and it produces such glistening foliage that
enables it to withstand these fungoid attacks.
FRUIT GARDEN.
MUSCAT GRAPES SHRIVELLING (Barrington).—
Your Muscats are suffering from shanking, and also the
Black Hamburgh in a leaser degree. See reply to
" Gloucestershire."
PEACH STONES SPLITTING (JT. P.).— Lime the soil
in which tlie Peaches are growing. The trees are probably
affected witli gumming, and it would be well to cut out
all the gummed branches and paint the wounds with white
paint or witli coal tar.
PEACH SHOOTS DISEASED (M. B. fl.).— The shoot?
of the Peach sent appear to be attacked by the Rose
mildew, Sphairotheca pannosa. We recommend you to
prune away, as far as possible, all those shoots which show
the mildew, and to spray the tree thorou.:hly, while it is
dormant, ^^^th a solution of copper sulphate, lib. in 30 to 35
gallons of water. See tliat the tree next year is not
allowed to suffer from want of water, for that is the main
cause, checking it and laying it open to attacks of such
fungi as the mildew.
October 24, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
525
I
PEARS CRACKING (Down Place).~Thc Pear.s arc
attacked by the disease known as i?ear scab. This is
due to a fun;j;us called Fusicladium pyriuum, which attacks
not only the fruit, but tho foliage and shoots as well.
Your best plan would be to prune out all the shuolsthut
show sig:ns of crackinj.' of the bark (as thoui^ih (lny li;iil
been injured by frost) and to spray the tree in tlic wiuler
with copper sulphate at the rate of a pound to twenty-
flvo gallons of water, and afterwards, just before the buds
burst and again when the petals have fallen, with Bordeaux
mixture at half strength.
APPLE •■ DISEASED (E. B.)-— The Apple is attacked
by the fungus Sclerotinia fructigena, causing the disease
known as brown rot. The fungus attacks the shoots
and foliage, as well as the flowers and fruits, though it
is more easily seen on the last. Care should be taken
to prune out the diseased parts of the tree during the
winter. All Apples hanging on tlic tree should be removed ,
and the tree sprayed during the winter with a solution
of a pound of copper sulphate in twenty-five gallons of
water. Spray with Bordeaux mixture just before the
buds burst and again after the flowers have fallen.
PEACH ATTACKED BY FUNGUS (E. C.).— Part of
the- trouble with the Peach is due to shot-hole fungus,
part to spraying with an unsuitable compound. Potassium
sulphide often causes defoliation of delicate -folia ged
plants like Peaches and Nectarines, and we recommend
in place of it for these plants ammoniacal copper carbonate
in a little water, adding three pints of the strongest
ammonia and diluting to forty-five gallons with soft water.
We have found this very effective in controlling shot-
hole fungus, and it may be used without detriment to the
plants sprayed, so long as the spraying is done in dull
weather or after dusk.
GRAPE SUPPOSED TO BE BLACK HAMBURGH
(H, S.). — • The berries were rather badly decayed
before reaching us. The variety is certainly not Black
Hamburgh, and we agree with you in thinking it is
Madresfleld Court, and an excellent variety also.
The cause of failure in growth is an attack by
a miniature species of red spider on the leading shoot
of the Vine. It is not at all unusual for this spider
to attack the shoots of vigorous young Vines in this way.
The only cure is to sponge the parts carefully with a
mixture of sulphur and soft soap and water. Mix together
half a pint of sulphur with a quarter of a pint of soft soap
in warm water, bringing them down to the consistency of
thick paint; then add to this half a gallon of water, well
mixing together. Sponge the affected parts several times
with this mixture until you are satisfied the Vine is clean.
Examine the Vine several times for its reappearance, and
apply again if necessary.
GRAPES SHANKING iQloucestershire).—The sample of
Grapes sent shows that the Vines are suffering from a
disease termed in garden parlance " shanking." This
disease is brought about by various causes, all tending
to weaken the Vine during its growth of the previous
year. It may be the Vine was cropped too heavily the
year before, overtaxing its strength. This would bring
it about, or it may be that the Vino last year suffered
from a severe attack of red spider; or a too heavy appli-
cation of artificial manure to the roots, causing the destruc-
tion of some of them, might be the cause. Cut away
and burn all the diseased berries. As soon as the foliage
is ripe and has dropped, clear away the top soil of tlie
border until you come to a good mass of roots, and then
apply a top-dressing 5 inches deep (after well treading
down) of the following soil compost : To a cartload of
airfy fibrous loam, cut into lumps the size of a quarter
of a brick, add three barrow-loads of old mortar rubble,
a bushel of quarter-inch bones and the same of bone-meal,
also a barrow-load of fresh lime. Mix well together
and apply as soon as the roots are exposed. As soon
as this top-dressing is laid on the roots, have it covered
over to the depth of 12 inches with freshly fallen leaves,
these to remain on the border until the first week in April.
Crop the affected Vines very lightly next year, and you
will find, we think, they will be quite recovered by the
following year.
KITCHEN GARDEN.
POTATOES WITH BLACK MARKS (G. ^.).— Potatoes
not infrequently develop these hollow, black-lined spaces
inside when they are allowed to become hot in a store.
It may be that they have been put away without drying,
or possibly stored in too hot a place. There is also a
bacterial disease that attacks Potatoes somewhat in this
way, but the symptoms are not quite the same. The
tubers certainly do not look nice, but if halved and the
black part removed before cooking, it would render them
fit for consumption.
BRUSSELS SPROUTS DISEASED (W. T.).~Your
Brussels Sprouts are attacked by the disease called club-
root, due to the fungus Plasmodiophora bras^icag. This
is best combated by treating the soil with quicklime
at the rate of half a bushel to the square rod or rather
more, purchasing it in the powder form and spreading
it over the ground evenly, digging it in immediately.
You will find a short article on this subject on another
page.
CATERPILLARS ON BROCCOLI AND SPINACH
(B. Q.). — The caterpillar sent is that of one of the Cabbage
moths or an allied species, and from its habit of feeding on
or near the surface and hiding in the soil during the day-
time it has earned the name of surface caterpillar. Hand-
picking is certainly the most satisfactory way of dealing
with the pest, and the only one that can be recommended
in many cases. Where plants are not to be used for
food, spraying with lead arsenate is the best thing to do.
In some cases success can be obtained by dipping Clover,
or something else of which the caterpillar is fond, in
Paris green and putting the small heaps near their haunts.
CATERPILLARS ON CABBAGES {W. F. S. H.).—
You might try the elfcct of spraying the Cabbages with
water at alx>ut 120° or even a little hotter, or with salt
Wiiter, Either of them would probably reduce the trouble
considerably. Phormium tenax often flowers in suitable
localities when the plants have attained some size, and
not infrequently the seed ripens. We expect you will
find flowers in most seasons after this.
MISCELLANEOUS.
VARIOUS QUESTIONS {Berkshire).— U not the brown
appearance of the younji fronds of the Maidenliair normal ?
Wc do not think anything is «rong with them. Tlie
liquid manure may be used when insects are in it and a
smell arising from it. It will be rather difficult to prevent
flies from breeding in the manure water, but possibly
a thin film of paraffin maintained on its surface would
effect the purpose.
BOTTLING FRUIT (M. B.).—lt the Plums are quite
covered with water and no air is allowed to come in contact,
the fruit certainly ought not to be discoloured. Before
serving up the fruit it will require a certain amount of
cooking, but much will depend on the variety and the state
of the fruit as to ripeness when bottled. Sugar suflicient
to sweeten should then be added. As is well known,
sugar can be added at the time of bottling if thought
desirable.
GAS-LIME FOR BREAKING UP LAND (S. H. (?.).— Gas-
lime can rarely be obtained nowadays. We think your
best plan would be to get some quicklime (burnt lime or
stone lime) and put it in heaps on the ground at the rate
of half a bushel to the square rod ; cover it with earth,
and when it is slaked (in about a fortnight or three weeks),
spread it and dig it in this autumn. The weeds and grass
should be completely buried, and Twitch, Bellbine and the
like removed.
NAMES OF PLANTS.— 4. L. Ford.— The Belladonna
Lily (Amaryllis Belladonna). Mrs. Logan. — Saxifraga
sarmentosa, often known as Mother of Thousands.
F. K. — 1, After cordifolius ; 2, A. diffusus ; 3, A. Novi-
Belgii ; 4, A. N.-B. densus ; 5, A. Novae-Anglise Mrs. Eavnor ;
6, a seedling of Aster vimincus. H. R. D. M. — Crataegus
Crus-galli (Cockspur Thorn). Mercury. — Polygonum
polystachyum. West Sussex. — Chrysanthemum (Pyre-
thrum) Mrs. F. .Sander. .J. 0. B. — Ziusehneria
californica (Californian Fuchsia).
NAMES OF FRUIT.— T. S.
Duchess. A. T. ViiderhiU. — 1,
ford Pippin; 3,Cobham; 4, Scarlet KonpareiI;'5, Ribston
Pippin; 6, Gaseoyne's Scarlet; 7, Catillac ; 8, Sand-
ringham; 9, Ecklinville Seedling; 10, Durondeau; 11,
Bismarck ; 12, Peasgood's Nonsuch ; 13, Prince Edward ;
14, Cox's Pomona ; 15, Pitmaston Duchess. O. Tolson.
— 1, Sops 0' Wine ; 2, Annie Elizabeth ; 3, Beauty of
Hants; 4, Northern Greening ; 5, Fearn's Pippin ; 6. New
Hawthornden ; 7, Christmas Pearmain ; 8, Tom Putt; 9,
Cat's-head ; 10, Hoary Morning. Adam Scott.— 1, Cox's
Orange Pippin ; 2, Allington Pippin ; 4, Fearn's Pippin ;
5, King of the Pippins. — —W. E. C— 1, Cissv Apple ; 2,
M^re du Manage ; 4, Kibston Pippin ; 5, dox's Orange
Pippin ; 6, King of the Pippins. — —H. R. D. M. — 1, Mal-
formed fruit, too poor to name ; 2, Bismarck ; 3, Lady
Henniker ; 4, Yellow Ingestre ; 5, Eosemary Russet ; 6,
Duchesse d'Angoulfime ; 7, Baronne de Mells ; 8, probably
a small fruit of Pitmaston Duchess. J. H. Welch. — M6re
du Manage. C. J. Nicholson. — 1, American Mother ; 2,
Cox's Orange Pippin ; 3. Bowhill Pippin. .P. O. E.—
1, Too poor to name; 2, Ross Nonpareil; 3, Pigeon
Apple; 4, Mank's Codlin ; 5, Hall Door; 6, Northern
Greening ; 7, Ribston Pippin; Pear Marie Louise.
Herbert Barnes. — 1, Christmas Pearmain ; 2, Hawthornden ;
3, Souvenir du Congr^s ; 4, Louise Bonne de Jersey ; 5,
BeurrS Hardy; 6, Beurrg Dicl. J. E., Ireland. — 1,
Decayed when received ; 2, too decayed to name ; 3.
Bismarck ; 4, Malster ; 5, Blenheim Orange ; 6, Lord
Derby ; 7. Braddiek's Nonpareil ; 8, too decayed to
identify ; 9, Warner's King ; 10, Cobham. Torquay. —
Clox's Pomona.
B. — Pear Pitmaston
Marie Guise ; 2, Stam^
THE EDITOR'S TABLE.
Two Beautiful Michaelmas Daisies. — Messrs.
T. S. Ware, Limited, of Feltham send flowers of
two new Michaelmas Daisies, both of which are
superb. The most charming of the twain is Aster
Amellus Arethusa, a dwarf and freely branched
plant with very large, deep rose-coloured blossoms.
This received an award of merit from the Royal
Horticultural Society a few weeks ago. The other
is also a variety of Amellus, and is named Orion.
This has the same habit and large flowers as
Arethusa, but the blossoms are rich blue in colour.
We welcome these as charming additions to the
hardy border flowers of late autumn, and feel
sure that before long they will be found in nearly
every garden in the United Kingdom.
SOCIETIES.
NATIONAL SWEET PEA SOCIETY.
Annual Genehai, .MKKTiNti.
This was held at the Westminster Palace Hotel, London..
S.W., on Monday, October 12, Mr. F. W. Harvey in the
chak. The secretary, Jlr. Henry D. Tigweli, read thrr
notice convening the meeting, and the minntes of thi-
last annual general meeting and of the special general
meeting (held in April, 1914), which were approved and
signed. It was agreed that the annua! report be taken
as read. The chairman, in moving its adoption, said that
the war had had rather a bad effect on the membership
of the society Dxiring the year 145 new members had
joined and 72 had resigned, but 50 of those resignations
had been received since the war broke out, and there
was no doubt that that was mainly the cause of thowe
resignations. New societies to the number of twenty-
two had been aflaiiated, which was double the number
of last year, eight had resigned, while a few had not yet.
paid their subscriptions for 1014. The committee had.
fully considered the advisability of holding trials next
year, and had decided that it was the duty of the society
to try to keep thing.s going as well as possible. They
had come to the conclusion that Mr. Christy of Roxwell,
near Chelmsford, who was willing to undertake the trials^
would be the suitable man. He liad had considerable
experience in the cultivation of Sweet Peas. Major
Hurst was unable to undertake the trials next year.
In regard to finance, it would be seen that the financial
year had not been a very good one for the society. They
had had a large number of items to meet, which had been
rather extraordinary, if he might say so. To start with,
tlie balance brought forward from last year was about
£30 less than in the previous year. In addition to that
there were outstanding accounts which had not been
rendered at the date when the previous financial year
closed, amounting to £37 Those had been paid, of
coiurse, out of the current year's accounts. Then it would.
be remembered that last year Mr. Curtis, their hon.
secretary, was compelled to resign the secretaryship,
and Mr. Tigwell was elected aa a paid secretary with a
salary of £50 a year. The committee thought it was-
quite right and proper to pay Mr. Tig\vell his salary
every quarter, so that they had had to meet this year
the secretarial work of nearly two years. It would be
recollected that at the last annual meeting £73 10s. wa&
voted as an honorarium to the late hon. secretary, and
in addition to paying that, this year they had paid Mr.
Tig^vell three quarters' salary, the total amounting to
£111. Next year there would only be Mr. Tigwell's
salary to pay — one year's salary. Trials expenses this-
year amounted to £64 5s. lOd., as against £49 10s. 2d.
in 1913, which was mainly due to the fact that the seeds-
were sown in the autumn, this entailing considerable
expense. Tenders had been obtained for printing the
"Annual" and trials list next year, and a considerable
saving would be eft'ected in that direction. It would be
seen that there were outstanding accounts with the
printers amounting to about £180. This amount the
committee proposed to pay with the balance in hand
and £150 from the deposit account. That would still
leave £50 on deposit. Arrangements had been made to
hold the London show on Tuesday, July 13, 1915, that being
the only date in July when the committee could obtain
the Royal Horticultural Society's Hall. Owing to the
war the committee had decided not to incur the expense
of a provincial show next year. In conclusion, the
chairman proposed that the report and financiaPstatement
be adopted. Mr. J. S. Brunton seconded the motion.
The report and accounts were unanimously adopted.
Votes of thanks to the president, hon. treasurer, Major
C. C. Hurst, chairman of committee, and the floral and
general committee were proposed, seconded and passed.
Several proposed alterations, additions or amendments
to the rules had been sent in. but only two of these were
carried. One, a new rule, is as follows : " The committee
shall have power to refuse membership to any person."'
Rule 22 will in future include the words " not more than
three varieties " in place of " three varieties."
Miss H. C. Philbrick was unanimously elected president
for the ensuing year ; Mr. E. H. Christy, chairman of
committee ; Mr. Reginald Christy, trials superintendent ;
Mr. E. Sherwood, hon. treasurer ; "Mr. R. Gluyas, auditor ;
and JMr. H. D. Tigwell. secretary. The general com-
mittee were re-elected with the exception of Mr. Bide,
who was not eligible, and the addition of Messrs. T. A.
Weston, E. R. Janes, F. AV. Harvey and B. Peyman.
Mr. H. A. Reekie was added to the list of provincial
corresponding members of committee. Balloting for
the floral committee resulted in the following being elected :
Messrs. R. Bolton, J. M. Bridgeford, C. H. Curtis, A.
Hallam, G. Herbert, A. Ireland, T. Jones, H. Smith and
T. Stevenson.
READING GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION.
The second fortnightly meeting of the session was held in
the Education Class Room at the College on the 5th in?t.
The president occupied the chair, and there was a sood
attendance. The subject for the evening, " How to Keep
Mixed Borders Gay from Spring to Autumn," was ably
introduced by Mr. H. C. Loader of The Gardens, Erieigh
Park, Reading. The lecturer lucidly explained the
method he employs to keep the borders gay at Erieigh
Park with perennials, biennials, annuals and* bulbs. Mr.
Loader advocated that the borders should be deeply dug
and heavily manured, and such perennials planted as
Michaelmas Daisies, Solidago, Heleniums in variety,
early flowering Chrysanthemums, herbaceous Phloxes.
Pyret brums. Polyanthuses and Dahlias. The biennials
526
THE GARDEN.
[October 24. 1914.
recommended for planting between the perennials were
Canterbury Bells in mauve, white and pink, and Sweet
Williams (Pink Be-auty) ; and among annuals Asters
(Giant Single and Southcote Beauty), Cosmea, Sutton's
Xew Red Sunflower and Silcne (Dwarf Pink). May-
flowering Tulips and Dalfodils are also freely planted.
The successful mode of cultivation, to ensure the borders
looking constantly gay and enabling one to cut a buucli
of flowers at any time, was dealt with. The animated
discussion which took place after the paper had been
read showed how mucli the subject had been appreciated,
and a hearty vote of thanks was accorded ilr. Loader
for his instructive paper. Exhibits were numerous,
and considerably occupied the time of the judges. In
the points competition, Class I., Mr. Black%vell received
9i for Apples, Mr. Goodger 9i for Pears, Mr. Tovey 9 for
Pears, and Mr. Townsend 10 for Pears. In Class II., Mr.
F. Haines received Hi points for vegetables. The
Onlooker prizes, for three* dishes of vegetables, for single-
handed gardeners only, were awarded as follow : First,
6s., Mr. F. Haines, gardener to Mr. J. F. Hawkins;
second, 3s. 6d., Mr. F. Lamport, gardener to Mr. J.
Blandy. Mr. C. J. Howlett was awarded a certificate
for a collection of Potatoes and fruit. Xon-competitive
exhibits were staged by Mr. J. T. Tubb (Peaches), Mr.
Wilson (Pears) and Mr. Loader (Asters).
SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.
THE usual monthly meeting of the above association
was held in the hall, 5, St. Andrew Square, Edinburgh,
on the evening of October 6. Mr. David King, Osborne
Nurseries (the president), occupied the chair, and there
■was a good attendance. The exhibits were excellent,
and included the following : Collection of excellent vege-
tables from the lecturer of the evening, Mr. D. M. Welsh,
The Gardens, Spean Lodge, Spean Bridge ; a splendid
■exhibit of about sixty varieties of early Chrysanthemums
of the dilferent sections and Antirrhinum Nelrose,
sent by Messrs, Dobbie and Co., Edinburgh ; a compre-
hensive exhibit of splendid Apples from Sir. W. G. Pirie,
The Gardens, Dalhousie Castle, Bonnyrigg ; Chrysanthe-
mums and about eighteen varieties of" Potatoes from Miss
Burton, Polton ; dried Potatoes, Ac, from IMr. G. P.
Berry of the Board of Agriculture, Ix)ndon ; and flowers
of Cobsea scandens (grown in the open) from ]\Ir. Charles
Comfort, The Gardens, Broomfields, Davidson's Mains.
In the absence of Mr. Welsh, the lecturer of the evening,
his paper was read by the secretary. It was entitled
" Vegetables for the Western Highlands," and was a
valuable contribution on the subject, dealing fully with
the conditions existing in this rather difficult district
and detailing the best varieties. As was indicated in
the paper, the weather conditions are troublesome, as
at Spean Bridge the average rainfall was 67 inches. Mr.
Welsh stated that about four months covered the period
of cro^vth for the vegetables. The lecturer also gave
figures to show the range of temperatures, and recounted
the difficulties experienced under such conditions.
SCOTTISH TRIAL OF GARDEN DAHLIAS.
Following upon the great trial of Dahlias held during
the season of 1913 by Mr. Keginald Cory at Duffryn,
Cardiff, it was decided last spring to conduct a trial on
somewhat similar lines in Scotland, so as to ascertain
whether the results obtained at Cardiff would be main-
tained in the North. The National Dahlia Society accepted
the offer of Mr. Kobert B'ife of Messrs. Dobbie and Co.,
Edinburgh, to conduct the trial in the firm's grounds
there. The varieties under trial were, as far as possible,
the same as those grown at Cardiff in 1913, and each
variety was represented by two plants.
Those who contributed to the Scottish trial, and who
sent all plants free of charge, were Messrs. U. H. Bath,
Limited, Wisbech ; Messrs. J. Cheal and Sons, Crawley ;
Mr. J. A. Jarrett, Anerley (an amateur) ; Mr, S. Mortimer,
Farnham ; Mr. J, B. Kiding. Chingford ; Messrs. W.
Treseder, Limited. Cardiff ; Mr. Charles Turner, Slough ;
Messrs. T. S. Ware. Limited. Feltham ; Mr. J, T. West,
Brentwood; and Messrs. Dobbie and Co., Edinburgh.
With three exceptions the plants were sent in quite early
in the season, and were grown into large plants before
the planting-out time arrived. The varieties on trial
numbered 458 (in addition to many seedlings), grouped
as follows : Cactus, 113 ; bedding Cactus. 11 : Pseony-
flowered, 124 ; Pompons, 42 ; decorative, 45 ; Collarette,
103 ; show and fancy, 47 ; singles, 36 ; with some other
sections represented by fewer varieties. The plants, on
the whole, made very satisfactory growth, and, as a
rule, were in full fiower at the time of inspection. The
moist and warm weather, however, had forced them into
new growth, which more or less hid the flowers in the
case of some varieties of well-known decorative value.
The inspection took place on Monday, September 14,
and the following gentlemen were appointed to make the
awards from a garden decorative point of view : Mr.
J. E. McHattie, Superintendent of Parks, Edinburgh ;
Mr. J. Whitton, Superintendent of Parks, Glasgow ;
Mr. Matthew Campbell, nurseryman, Blantyre ; Mr.
John Smellie, nurseryman. Busby ; Mr. D. Kidd, gardener
to Lord Elphinstone, Carberry Towers, Musselburgh ;
and Mr. J. Highgate, gardener to the Marquis of Lin-
lithgow, Hopctoun House, South Queensfcrry. The
followitiL' varireiro.
Second best rosy pink. — Calliope, Dolly Reeves, Dorothy
Ashley, James Bateman and Btme. Marie Mas^fi. Best
rosy lilac. — Improved IMasrfi. Best chestnut crimson. —
Almitante and Mrs. Willis. Second best chestnut crimson.
—George BowncFS. Best crimson. — Crimson Diana,
Crimson Polly, Goacher's Crimson, Kuroki and Mrs. W.
Sydenham. i3est crimson scarlet, — Wells' Scarlet. Best
terra-cotta. — Abercorn Beauty, Orange, S. F. Richmond
and Verona, Best bronze. — Bronze Goacher. Second
best bronze. — Mrs. J. Fielding and Nina Bliek. Best
orange bronze, — Diana and Harric.
Pompon Early Chrysanthemums.
Second best \\hite. — La ViSrge. Best vellow. — Craig-
millar. Second best yellow. — Flora and Mignon. Second
best bronze. — Mrs. E. Staeey. Second best pink.— J. B,
Duboir. Best blush. — Jlr. belby. Best crimson.— Little
Bob. Second best crimson. — Fred Pele and Toreador.
Single Early Chrysanthemums.
Best white. — Marion Bannister and White City. Second
best white. — Walton Bradbury. Best yellow. — Ada
Nice, Brightness and Joan Carter. Second best yellow. —
The Moon, Best orange. — Wells' Pride. Second best
bronze.— Eric. Second best salmon. — Canada. Second
best terra-cotta. — Dr. Inciram and Holmthorpe. Second
best blush — Brazier's Beauty and Daisy Bell, Best
pink. — John Woolman and Pink Gem. Second best
pink. — Early rose. Best purple rose. — Dorothy. Secnml
best crimson chestnut. — .\lexander and A. J. Foster.
Best crimson. — Dazzler. Second best crimson. — Kate
Westlake. Merstham Glorv and Kuby. Second best
fiery red.- W. A. Cull.
NATIONAL DAHLIA SOCIETY.
Annual Conference.
On Thursday evening, the loth inst., the al>ove society
h«ld its annual conference at Carr's R'staurant, Strand,
when IV-'ginald Cory, Esq., occupied the chair. In thr
absence of the secr^ary, Mr. Charles H. Curtis jiblv fulfllhd
his duties. In opening tin- ui'Lting, Mr. J. Cheal iiitroducid
the chairman, who I'xpnssi'd his I'ltasure at presiding,
although it was mitigated Ity the r<_iullrction of the recent
death of their chairman, the late Jlr. Grorge Gordon,
a gnat friend of the society, and in whose death horticultun-
generally had lost a sympathetic leader. The membt-rs
this year had experienced sonif disappointment, for the
conference was originally int-ndi'd to have been held at
the White City, War trouble taiisfd it to be removed
to the Crystal Palace, then to thi- Royal Horticultural
Society's Hall, and finally they found a'refutre at Carr's,
where he was glad to welcome them. Heathen called
upon Jlr. J. Stredwick to read the flrst paper, which was
entitled " The History of the Dahlia."
ilr. Stredwick then related a few facts connected with
the early history of the flower. There was practically
nothing new or interesting in lus communication, which
consisted of a few historical facts admittedly drawn from
the writings of the late Richard Dean. Then came a
personal record of the reader's experience, chiefly in regard
to the Cactus Dahlia and its progress. In the discussion
that ensued Mr. Harman Payne pointed out that in 1889
the National Dahlia Society celebrated the centenary of the
introduction of the Dahlia into Europe by holding a con-
ference at the Crystal Palace. OnthatoecasionJIr. Shirley
Ilibbird contributed a paper on the history of the Dahlia,
which, with his great literary skill and capacity for research
work, had never bein surpassed, and remained to this day,
in spite of allsubseqin-nt attempts by other less competent
WTiters, the most authoritative work on the subject. This
paper was printed in ertenso inthc National Dahlia Society's
Schedule for 1S90. and nothing that later writers had
done had contributed to a fuller knowledge of Dahlia
history. Mr. Payne ridiculed the suggestion that the
Pompon Dahlia was knowa\ in 1808, and said that indepen-
dent and original research among the records failed entirely
to establish the fact of its existence until at least fifty
years later. He also raised a query as to the employ-
ment of the mongrel English word '" Collarette " for the
French word "CoUerette," and severely challenged the
\ise of the word *' Pompon " as applied to the small-flowered
Cactus Dahlia. Several speakers followed, but their
remarks were chiefly confined to cultural questions
relating to the Cactus and Collarette sections, Mr. Wyatt,
-Mr. J. T. West and the chairman taking part. Mr.
Stredwick replied.
The next paper was entitled " The Dahlia as a Decora-
tive Plant for Parks and Gardens," and was received
with appreciation by the hearers. Then came a paper
by Mr. Harrison Dick on " The Dahlia in America,"
read by Mr. Curtis. In this there was a good deal of
iutercsting information concerning the historical aspects
of the Dahlia in the States and the local Dahlia societies*
work there ; also difficulties of culture and details con-
cerning the eut flower trade. This paper also raised
several points for an interesting discussion, in which
many speakers took part.
Votes of thanks to the gentlemen who had contributed
papers and to those who took part in the discussions
were accorded, also one to the chairman for presiding.
This lirought the proceedings to a conclusion.
CHELMSFORD AND DISTRICT GARDENERS'
ASSOCIATION.
The flrst meeting of the winter session was held in the
East Anglian Institute of Agricultaire on Friday, October 2,
JMr. C. Wakely presided, and about forty members were
present, Mr. Pugh of Messrs. Carter and Co. of Raynes
Park gave a very interesting and instructive lecture on
" Lawns." The lecturer explained that not only is a
lawn an asset to any garden, but of late years had become
of great importance on account of games, such as bowls,
croquet and tennis, being played upon them. Practical
operations, such as seed-sowing, cutting, rolling and
hovelling, were fully explained by the lecturer. Specimens
of seeds and weeds, &c., were shown, and the lecture was
illustrated by a fine set of lantern slides. At the con-
clusion of the discussion a hearty vote of thanks was
accorded Mr. Pugh for his excellent lecture.
WARGRAVE GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION.
At the last meeting of the members an able paper on
" Slichaelmas Daisies " was given by Mr. P. Wiseman
of Messrs. Waterer, Sons and Crisp's nurseries at Hare
Hatch. He gave full directions for planting in the border
and the best method of arranging them for effect. The
shorter varieties were recommended for pot culture,
a method which had not received so much attention
as it deserved. In tubs, too, they made a grand show.
A good discussion ensued, and Mr. Wiseman was thanked
for his address. Messrs. Waterer and Co. staged a flne
exhibit of Michaelmas Daisies, and were thanked for
so doing. Mr. Pope was awarded a cultural certificate
for a nice group of Cypripediums, and Mr. Cox was highly
commended for a dish of Peaches.
Brighton, Hove and Sussex Horticultural
Society. — It is with much regret that the com-
mittee of the above society have decided to abandon
the Chrysanthemum show arranged for Novem-
ber 3 and .(-, also the lecture on November 19.
^^^'
E GARDEN.
i^^j^gi^i — ^^^^3^rr~
W
No. 2241.— Vol. LXXVIII.
October 31, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Medicinal Plants in England.— In Leaflet
No. 288, just published, the Board of Agriculture
draw attention to the fact that, owing to the war,
there is likely to be a shortage of medicinal plants
next year. They rightly point out that, in the
ordinary way, a few pounds of dried herbs are
only disposed of with difficulty ; but next year,
owing to the shortage, small quantities will doubt-
plant or in the greenhouse, and the growers of it
in such places are surprised to learn that it is quite
hardy. As a good rock garden subject it is worthy
of special thought, and, given a well-exposed and
sunny position, the heads of rosy coloured flowers
are often accompanied by highly coloured leafage.
At other times the latter is of glaucous hue, well
separated from others of its class. There is a
less be very welcome to buyers. The leaflet \ variegated form less good in general effectiveness,
gives the names and cultural details of the herbs Experiments with American Gooseberry
mostly in demand, and we hope to publish it in Mildew. — In the annual report of the horticulture
subsequent issues. branch of the Board of Agriculture considerable
An Interesting Tropical Orchid. — The plant space is devoted to work that has been done during
illustrated on this page is a native of Madagascar, the past year in connection with American Goose-
and bears the- somewhat unwieldy
name of Angrsecum sesquipedale.
It is one of the most interesting of
winter-flowering Orchids, its ivory
white blossoms usually opening
during November, December and
January. Their most remarkable
feature is the spur, which often
attains a length of from lo inches
to 18 inches. For its successful
cultivation this Orchid needs a
stove-house where a winter tem-
perature of 60° Fahr. can be main-
tained. For a rooting medium it
should be given a mixture of char-
coal, peat and sphagnum moss.
It is a plant that deserves to be
more widely cultivated where
facilities exist for providing the
proper temperature.
An Attractive Plant for the
Rock Garden. — in Corydalis Wil-
sonii we have a valuable plant
for the rock garden. This beauti-
ful Chinese species, of recent
introduction, commenced flowering
early in the summer, and is still
bearing many spikes of its
bright yellow flowers, which stand
up in a very graceful manner above its attractive.
Fern-like foliage. It should be planted in well-
drained soil, and if given the protection of a large
rock, so much the better, as excessive moisture
during the winter is its chief enemy. It is readily
raised from seed, and will, when it becomes better
taiown, be found in all gardens where choice
flowers are grown.
A Good Autumn Rock Garden Plant.— Of the
trailing or prostrate habited sorts flowering in
autumn, the Japanese Sedum Sieboldii is certainly
one of the most distinct and ornamental, and as
such merits general cultivation. It is, however,
more frequently seen as a pot-grown window
ANGR.ECUM SESQUIPEDALE, AN INTERESTING WINTER-FLOWERING
ORCHID FROM MADAGASCAR
berry mildew. A number of experiments have
been carried out in different parts of the country
by spraying with lime-sulphur and other washes,
but the results obtained have not been entirely
satisfactory. In summing up the experiments it
is pointed out that the prompt removal and
burning of the affected tips of shoots has, up to the
present, proved the best method of dealmg with
the disease. Other important investigations carried
out by this branch during the year relate to the
pollination of fruit trees and the wart disease of
Potatoes.
A Good Scarlet-Flowered Perennial. — One
of the most useful herbaceous plants in the garden.
and one that ought to be extensively grown, is
Geum Mrs. Bradshaw. Some young plants that
we have are still producing their scarlet flowers
freely, and have not been without blossoms since
early June. Owing to the fact that they are'
produced on long, branching stems, they are ideal
for cutting, and, when arranged with any kind of
white flowers, never fail to elicit praise from visitors.
This Geum will produce seed freely if allowed to
do so, and the seedlings come true and retain the
good qualities of their parent. The plant is not
fastidious as to soil, though deep cultivation and
liberal manuring are appreciated. Can any reader
name a more useful hardy perennial than this ?
New Garden Suburb in Glas-
gow.— The Garden has always
taken a warm interest in garden
city and suburb schemes and has
done much to promote such enter-
prises. We are pleased to hear
of a new garden suburb for
Glasgow which was inaugurated
on October r7, when the Hazel-
wood one was the scene of an
interesting ceremony — that of
switching on the electric current
which is to supply lighting, cook-
ing and heating for this new
garden suburb. Hazelwood is
in a capital position, adjoining
Bellahouston Park and the tram-
way terminus of Dumbreck, and
it is likely to become a popular
place.
Mr. W. G. Pirie, Dalhousie
Castle Gardens. — We leam with
pleasure that Mr. W. G. Pirie,
Dalhousie Castle Gardens, is to be
the new president of the Scottish
Horticultural Association. Mr.
Pirie is in the first rank of
Scottish gardeners, as is attested by
the gardens of which he has charge
and his many successes in leading classes at the
principal Scottish shows. His employer, Mr. C. W.
Cowan, is one of the best supporters of horticulture
in Scotland, and Mr. Pirie does full justice to the
many choice things which are placed in his charge.
A son of the garden, Mr. Pirie is a general favourite
with his brother-gardeners, and they will doubtless
receive the appointment with acclamation. He
has long taken a lively and practical interest
in the affairs of the Scottish Horticultural Associa-
tion and has performed many services on its behalf.
Mr. Pirie will form an excellent successor to the
present able president, Mr. David King, Osborne
Nurseries, Murrayfield, Edinburgh.
528
THE GARDEN.
[October 31, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
(The Editor is not responsible for the of
expressed by correspondents.)
Shirley Poppies in October. — I was much
interested in the note in your issue for last week
on Shirley Poppies flowering at Hampton Court in
October. When at Kew about a fortnight ago,
I noticed a long stretch of border at the back of
the rock garden filled with flowering plants of
Virginian Stock. The seed of these had evidently
been so^vn in July, and the effect was certainly
very charming. This late sowing of annuals
might be much extended, and our gardens in the
autumn considerably enriched thereby- — A. B.
ESSE.X.
When to Plant Tulips. — I am disappointed
that Mr. Dunn has not vouchsafed your readers
an explanation for the remarkable advice he
ing spray of Buddleia variabilis veitchiana, which
I consider is one of the best shrubs that blossom
in August. It is an exceedingly easy plant to
grow, thriving in almost any kind of soil so long
as it is well manured, and it quickly makes a
noble bush 8 feet to ra feet high. I find it does
much the best when pruned back hard each
spring, just before the leaf-buds burst. Treated
in this way it will make new growths nearly six feet
long during the summer, and in August each is
terminated by a beautiful raceme, a foot or more
long, of Heliotrope-coloured flowers. Side shoots
near the top also blossom, and keep up the display
for several weeks. Bumble-bees and also butter-
flies are exceedingly fond of the flowers. I strongly
advise anyone who appreciates autumn-flowering
shrubs to plant this Buddleia during the present
autumn or coming whiter. — J. D. M.
The Value of Hardy Heaths. — The Garden
has often insisted on the value of the hardy Heaths,
A FLOWERING SPRAY OF BUDDLEIA VARIABILIS VEITCHIANA,
SHRUB FOR AUTUMN EFFECT.
A BEAUTIFUL HARDY
gave them as to the time for planting Darwin
Tulips. Mr. J. Duncan Pearson's contribution
is interesting, but, unfortunately for him, a short
time since I received the bulb catalogue of Messrs.
J. R. Pearson and Sons, an old-established firm
of high repute, of which, I believe, he is a member.
Therein I read on page 14 the following : " We
ourselves grow some three acres of Darwin and
other late Tulips, and produce finer bulbs than
we can procure from anywhere else. Plant in
October or November," &c. So out of the
mouth of Mr. Pearson's own firm's catalogue
I prove my case for late planting. Could better
evidence be adduced in favour of it when
such good bulbs are obtained by it ? — Observer,
Weybridge.
A Useful Autumn-Flowering Shrub. — I have
read with interest the notes and articles that
have appeared in The Garden at different times
on hardy shrubs that flower in the autumn. I
am sending you herewith a photograph of a flower-
but even now they are not as widely appreciated
as they should be. I think it is not exaggerating
their merit to say that there is no other family
of plants which performs such continuous service
as do the Heaths. In support of this claim on their
behalf I send you a list of the Heaths that have
been in flower during each month of this present
year in this garden. I had intended to defer
this letter until the end of the year, when the
list would have been complete, but circumstances
render this impossible. January — Mediterranea
hybrida and codonodes. February — Mediterranea
hybrida, codonodes and camea. March — Mediter-
ranea hybrida, codonodes, caniea and mediter-
ranea. April — Mediterranea hybrida, codonodes,
camea, mediterranea and australis. May — Codo-
nodes, australis, mediterranea, Daboecia polifolia,
D. p. alba and D. p. atropurpurea. June —
Cinerea atrosanguinea, Tetralix and the three
Daboecias. July — Cinerea, c. atrosanguinea, c.
alba, Tetralix, vagans, stricta and the three
Daboecias. August — Cinerea, c. atrosanguinea,
c. alba, Tetralix, vagans, stricta, ciliaris, the three
DabcECias, vulgaris, Hammondii, Alportii, Searlii
and flore pleno. September — Cinerea, c. atro-
sanguinea, Tetralix, vagans, ciliaris, the three
Daboecias, vulgaris, Hammondii, Alportii, Searlii
and flore pleno. October — Tetralix, vagans,
ciliaris, the three Daboecias, vulgaris, Alportii,
Searlii and a few plants of mediterranea
hybrida. — Macaulay Mort, Black Firs, Fulmer,
Bucks.
Wanted: Mildew-proof Roses. — Rose-growers
who are readers of The Garden naturally look
with some expectation for the October Rose
Number, and never fail to find much that is interest-
ing and profitable. Personally, I have been
particularly interested by the conspectus of the
Pemetiana section by your contributor " E. E. F."
My own great trouble is mildew, which, in my
sheltered garden, has this year been a great scourge.
It is not so much that it impairs the vitality of
the trees or the beauty of the flowers as that it
destroys the beauty of the foliage and gives a
generally imwholesome look to the Rose-beds.
It is high time, surely, that the raisers of new
Roses were giving their attention to the creation
of a race of Roses immune from mildew. Possibly
they are ; but in that case the success so far has
been small. Would it not be possible to get from
those of your readers experienced in Rose-growing
a list of Roses which they consider (i) absolutely
mildew-proof, (2) possessing good resistent power,
though not absolutely immune, and perhaps (3)
fairly free from the disease when grown in favour-
able circumstances ? If I could secure a fair
number of immune, or nearly immime, varieties,
offering a good range of colour, I should eliminate
from my garden those most susceptible to the
disease, much as I should regret parting with
many of them. I have already turned out all
the old Crimson Damasks, which grew plentifully
in my borders, and I am also getting rid of my
Crimson Ramblers, though they flower in their
season imcommonly well. A Rose which I have
found to be absolutely mildew-proof is Boule de
Neige, the value of which as a border Rose does
not seem to be sufficiently appreciated. I notice
that some correspondents of The Garden find
Gruss an Teplitz predisposed to the disease,
whereas with me it is one of the least infested.
General Macarthur is another Rose with good
resistent powers. Juliet has the foliage pretty free
from the disease, but the thorns are badly infected.
It is the fresh new growth nf Rose foliage in August
and September that is so liable to mildew, the
mature foliage produced earlier in the year being
free of the pest. My practice is to cut off the foliage
infected and bum it ; but this means sacrificing
a deal of bloom. As for washes and sprays, I have
little faith in their efficacy. Anyhow, the
spraying of all my Roses once a fortnight, as
recommended in the counsel of perfection, is a
task for which I have neither time nor energy.
I should be grateful, therefore, to any of your
readers who could put me on to good Roses little
predisposed to mildew. I am afraid the recent
creations of rosarians are too exquisite for this
mildewy world. — Somerset. [We shall be pleased
to receive particulars of mildew-proof Roses, or
those that are nearly so, from other readers. We
have found the following very free : Duchess of
Wellington, General Macarthur, Lady Alice Stanley,
Miss Cynthia Forde. Arthur R, Goodwin, Griiss
an Tep'itz, Jessie,. Chateau de Clos Vougeot
and Zephyrine Drouhin. — Ed.]
October 31, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
529
THE GLADIOLUS IN
AUTUMN.
AUTUMN is a time of special importance
in the life-liistory of the Gladiolus,
for it is according to the treatment
I the corms receive whether they shall
^ become decadent or continue in a
condition of health and vigour. As
long as the foliage remains green, it is an indica-
tion that the corms are not yet mature, and
therefore to lift the latter at that stage is not
correct treatment. At the same time, in late locali-
ties it may be essential, on account of the season,
to lift them before growth is completed, and
the plan in such cases is to lift the corms with
as much soil attached to the roots as possible,
and to lay them in a cool structure till the foliage
turns yellow. That is the way I proceed with all
our stock, which at the time of removal from the
ground still retains a measure of greenness in the
leaves, and it is very noticeable how the large
corms and the small ones nesthng at their bases
continue to swell after lifting.
Yearling seedhngs, as well as the small corms
of a year's growth, do much better when not
lifted, but protected by some suitable covering
during the winter. In many parts of the country
this plan might be pursued without the least
danger of losing the plants, more especially when
the newer strains are grown, these proving much
hardier than the old gandavensis section, and
they are at the same time less subject to disease.
They are also, many of them, far better adapted
to garden decoration, though less desirable from
the florist's point of view. If one is careful of the
" spawn," or young bulbs which are formed
at the base of the corms, in some instances in
very great numbers, a supply of fresh, vigorous
corms is quite easy to provide, and if to these
seedlings are added from seeds saved at home,
a very interesting addition to their number is
secured. The seedlings may be of no use com-
mercially, but some of the varieties seem
to reproduce themselves fairly well from seeds,
and, anyhow, from a good selection it is rare
to find a seedling that has not some valuable
qualities.
At the time of writing. Peace, an improved
form to all appearance of the very old Shakespeare,
is still beautiful. I grow Gladioli in conjunction
with other plants, as well to provide colour before
they bloom as when they are past. In this instance ]
Cuphea strigillosa (Cyanea) is the supernumerary j
Dawn, a lovely form just over, was associated witli
a mauve Viola. Tlie scarlet Mrs. Francis King
has Nepeta Mussinii, and the loveliest of all,
Halley, was associated with common Cornflower
and Campanula pyramidalis. The last named is a
very free seeder, and I have this autumn obtained
thousands of seeds of this variety. I must
not omit to point out how small corms usually
provide flowers very late in the year, and these
and seedlings are still promising many spikes
in addition to those which are open. By cutting
the latest and opening them in a heated structure
or a room, a very late supply of flowers is possible.
A gardener recently was anxious to know
how seedlings were treated. My plan is to sow
seed thickly in ordinary cutting-boxes early
in the year, transplanting the seedlings
into the garden about the end of May, in
the same way as Onions are raised and
transplanted. R. P. Brotherston.
THE HEARTSEASE OR
PANSY.
A LTHOUGH the common Heartsease that
/% we find growing wild in our corn-
/ % fields has been Ivnown for a great
^~"^^ many years and is to be found illus-
* ^ trated in some of the old herbals,
it was not until about a century ago
that any serious efforts were made to improve it
as a garden flower. The old illustrations referred
to show us ragged-looking plants bearing a few
miniature flowers, the sepals of which are much
longer than the petals. Comparing these illus-
trations with the beautiful symmetrical Pansies
that adorn our gardens to-day, we get a valuable
object-lesson in what can be done by intelhgent
and enthusiastic perseverance on practical, rational
Unes. For the ancestors of our modern garden
Pansies we are indebted to Lord Gambler and
his gardener, Mr. Thompson, who, at Iver, in
Buckinghamshire, about the year 1813, began
experimenting with the common wild Heartsease,
and who, during the following quarter of a century,
raised varieties which at that time were rightly
regarded as wonderful improvements on the type.
In the eighties of the last century, the florist's
Pansies, as the best of the large-flowered varieties
were termed, were at their zenith of fame ; but
since then their popularity has waned consider-
ably, though everyone who sees them well grown
cannot fail to be charmed with their quaint, cat-
faced flowers of almost circular outhne. It is
in the way of form and size that these modern
giants differ mainly from the original Heartsease,
the flowers of which, as I have already pointed
out, are small and ragged-looking, and to-day
scarcely worth a passing notice. The introduc-
tion of the hardier and more continuous flowering
garden Viola or Tufted Pansy undoubtedly did
much to oust the large-flowered Pansies from their
erstwhile proud position, particularly in the hot
Southern gardens, where they always, more or
less, lived on sufferance and seldom appeared
to be really happy. Later still the miniature
Tufted Pansies, or Violettas as some are pleased
to call them, were introduced, and perfect gems
they are, particularly when well placed in a
cool nook in the rock garden. Thus, in
briefly tracing the history of the garden forms of
Heartsease, we see that from a small flower those
of large dimensions were evolved ; then, with
the aid of other foreign species, smaller-flowered,
tufted plants were secured, and, from these, smaller
flowers and more diminutive habit again. This,
to the unknowing, may seem a reversion, but one
has only to compare the miniature Tufted Pansies
of to-day with the wild Heartsease to see that
everything else which is good has been retained.
The cultivation of all types of the modern
Pansy is the same ; but, as will already have
been inferred, the Tufted Pansies, owing to their
more vigorous constitution and free-flowering
propensities, give us the best returns, particularly
in the Southern Counties. In the more moist
and cooler Northern climate, the large-flowered
varieties are still grown to perfection, Scottish
gardeners especially excelling in their cultivation.
In the Western Counties of England, too, these
Pansies thrive apace, but it is seldom that one
finds them looking really happy in the London
district. The Tufted Pansy and its miniature
counterpart, however, will flourish almost
anywhere if a few cultural essentials are
provided. The most important of these is un-
doubtedly the soil. Dry, sandy soil on the one
hand and heavy clay on the other are equally
bad for our Pansies, and a good deal of ingenuity
is called for to make them at all suitable. By
heavily manuring the sandy soil with well-decayed
cow-manure, vegetable refuse and, if possible,
some clay, or, indeed, anything that wiU tend
to hold moisture and provide a cool rambling
place for the roots, we can do much to enable
us to grow at least the Tufted Pansies. Clay soil
needs to be made porous, and to this end plenty
of long stable manure, burnt earth, sand, old
mortar and leaf-soil should be dug in and well
mixed with the soil in autumn, the whole surface
being left rough for the winter frosts to pulverise.
Between these two extremes of soil we get many
kinds that, by intelligent cultivation, can be made
suitable for our Pansies. We must, however,
always bear in mind that slight shade from scorch-
ing midday sun and, more important still, a
cool medium for the roots, with plenty of humus
as food, are essentials.
There are two ways of increasing the large-
flowered Pansies — by means of cuttings and bv
seed. The former is the method usually preferred,
owing to the fact that seedlings rarely come true.
Both these methods can be applied to the Tufted
Pansies, which may also be divided during the
early days of spring. Cuttings made from young
shoots are usually planted in cold frames in
September and October, and seeds are also sown
in July or early August, though some prefer to
sow seed in January and February. The plants
from seed sown in August will flower early
the following spring, while those raised early in
the year wiU flower later. Planting is also
successfully carried out at two periods, viz.,
autumn and spring. Where the plants are ready
and the soil is of a sandy, well-drained character,
autumn planting has much to commend it ; but
where clay predominates, or excessive atmospheric
moisture is experienced, the work is best left
until the spring, the first week in April being a
good time to get the plants into their flowering
quarters. On their value in the garden there
is no need to dilate. Few plants will give such a
continuous and pleasing display over so long a
period as the Tufted Pansies, and the purposes
to which they may be put are many. There are
numerous named varieties now obtainable, and
all the following can be reUed upon to do well
under ordinarily good conditions : Large-flowered
Pansies — Bobby Harper, white ; Annie D. Lister,
yellow ; Colonel M. R. G. Buchanan, brown,
yellow and violet ; Lord Roberts, yellow and
carmine ; W. B. Child, yellow and purple. Tufted
Pansies — A. J. Rowberry, pale lemon yellow ;
Archie Grant, deep purple ; Bulhon, deep golden
yellow; Christiana, pale sulphur; Countess of
Hopetoun, white ; J. B. Riding, purplish mauve ;
Jubilee, dark purple ; Lavender Queen, pale
purplish mauve flowers ; Maggie Mott, lavender
blue, very free flowering ; Marchioness, white ;
Moseley Perfection, deep yellow ; Mrs. Chichester,
sulphur white, edged deep blue ; Royal Sovereign,
golden yellow ; and W. H. Woodgate, pale lavender
blue. Miniature Tufted Pansies — Cynthia, blush
lilac ; Diana, primrose yellow : Eileen, deep
blue, yellow eye ; Estelle, pure white, very small ;
Lavinia, blush lavender ; Robbie Jenkins, white,
suffused yellow on lower petals ; and Thisbe,
pale blush with yellow eye. These Usts are by
no means exhaustive, but all the varieties mentioned
are good. B. B.
530
THE GARDEN.
[October 31, 1914.
THE BEST HARDY BROOMS
DURING the mouth of May, when
1 most spring flowers are at their
I best, it is difficult to imagine a
r more beautiful sight than a deep
railway cutting, the banks of which
are clothed with the semi-pendent,
golden-wreathed shoots of the common Broom,
Cytisus scoparius. On waste land, wherever the
soil is poor, this beautiful wild shrub will be
found, usually in clusters of varying size, some-
times scarcely exceeding a yard in diameter and
at others extending for many times that distance.
Brooms resent serious disturbance of their roots.
Most of the species can be raised from seeds sown
in pots or boxes of sandy soil in autumn or spring,
but the varieties and hybrids are usually propa-
gated by means of cuttings. This, however, is
work for the nurseryman to undertake.
Pruning. — ^Young plants should be cut back
rather severely for the first year or two after
planting, so as to induce them to form a bushy
habit ; but once the foundation is laid for this,
little use need be made of the knife. The purple-
flowered Broom, Cytisus purpureus, however,
differs from others in this respect, as it benefits
considerably by being cut back nearly to the
' ground-level each year after flowering, young
THE WHITE SPANISH BROOM (CYTISUS ALBUS).
It is from this grouping of Nature that we should
take a lesson when attempting to cultivate shrubs
of this kind ; isolated bushes, beautiful as they
are, do not give us the same bold effects as colonies
of three or more, according to the size of the
garden and the space to be filled. Although the
wild Broom is a very beautiful plant, there are
a number of others, some varieties, some species
and others hybrids, that are perfectly hardy in
our gardens. These vary in dimensions from
almost prostrate-growing kinds, suitable for the
rock garden, to others that form small trees ;
hence their value for different positions in the
garden can scarcely be over-estimated.
Soil and Cultivation. — To those whose gardens
are composed mainly of sand or very poor soil,
these hardy Brooms are of the greatest value.
The more starved they are, the better they seem
to flower, although growth is not, perhaps, quite
so rapid as wlierc the diet is rather more generous.
For the wild garden, where there are rugged banks
to clothe, or large, irregular-shaped beds to fill,
no better plants can be found. It is, however,
always advisable to keep them clear of weeds
until they have attained goodly dimensions,
so that they are able to fight for themselves in
the great battle of the survival of the fittest.
Young plants in pots should be purchased, as
shoots springing from the base to take the place
of those removed. As already stated, there are
many kinds of Brooms that are suitable for our
gardens. The best are included in the following
list :
Cytisus setnensis is the Mount Etna Broom
and one of the latest to flower, being at its best
usually in August. It eventually makes a small
tree with pendulous, rush-like shoots, whence its
golden flowers are produced in abundance.
C. albus. — This is the white Spanish Broom.
It forms a semi-pendulous bush from 4 feet to
8 feet in height, and flowers freely in May.
C. Ardoinii. — A dwarf species from the Mari-
time Alps. It rarely exceeds a foot in height,
and is therefore a good shrub for the rock garden.
It produces small yellow flowers in May.
C. Beanii. — A dwarf hybrid raised at Kew
and named after the Assistant-Curator, Mr, W. J.
Bean. It is a gem of the rock garden, its golden
yellow flowers being produced freely in May.
C. biilorus. — This makes a neat shrub almost
5 leot high, and is one of the earliest to flower,
its small yellow blossoms being produced in pairs
in April.
C. Dallimorei is another hybrid raised at Kew
by Mr. \V. Dallimore, after whom it was named.
Its parents are C. alba and C. scoparius andrcanus.
and it is intermediate between the two. It forms
an erect bush several feet in height, and produces
its curious purplish-coloured flowers freely in May.
C. decumbens is a native of Europe, and, like
Ardoinii, is best suited for the rock garden. It
rarely exceeds 6 inches in height, and has yellow
flowers which open in May.
C. kewensis. — This is a beautiful little hybrid
that was raised at Kew some years ago. Owing
to its prostrate habit it is well adapted for the
rock garden, ."^t Friar Park Sir Frank Crisp
has it planted in colonies at the summit of large
boulders, so that its shoots hang partially suspended
over miniature precipices. When clothed with
their pale cream-coloured flowers in May, the
plants give one the impression of a cascade of
flowers.
0. nigricans. — This is a late-flowering European
species, its deep yellow blossoms opening in July,
It makes shoots 4 feet or rather more in height,
and flowers on the current year's wood ; hence
as much old growth as possible needs to be pruned
away in winter or early spring.
C. prsecox. — One of the prettiest of the early
flowering Brooms. It grows from 6 feet to 8 feet
in height, and flowers when quite yoimg.
Its blossoms are creamy white, and usually open
during the last week in April.
C. purpureus. — This is a dwarf-growing species
when pruned annually as already advised. It
prodiiers its purple flowers in May.
C. scoparius is our wild Broom, and is well
Iviiown to e\-en,' lover of the cotmtry. There are
several beautiful varieties of it, the one named
andreanus being most frequently met with. It
has the same habit and freedom of flowering as
the type, but each of the wing petals is heavily
blotched with warm, brownish crimson. The
Moonlight Broom, C. scoparius sulphureus, is
another beautiful variation of the wild Broom.
It has pale sulphur- coloured flowers, which are
produced in great profusion in May. It has a
rather more prostrate habit than the type.
The Yellow Spanish Broom. — This belongs to
another family, its botanical name being Spartium
junceum. It thrives mider similar conditions to
those advised for the Brooms proper, and produces
seed freely, from which yoimg plants are easily I
raised if the seeds are sown in pots in a cold frame.
It makes a bush 8 feet or more in height,
and flowers for a long time during July and
August. H.
STORAGE AND DISPOSAL
OF APPLES AND PEARS.
THE following special leaflet has just been
issued by the Bo.ard of Agriculture :
" It is believed that there is a verj
large number of gardens and smal
orchards in which Apple and Pear
trees are to be found, the fruit of
I which is not put to its most profitable use by the
owners. i\Iuch is wasted altogether, and more
suffers in quality through the neglect of certain
sintplc preeautitms.
Picking the Fruit. — In the first place, many
varieties of AppKs .and Pears are picked too soon.
The reasons which make it sometimes necessary
for a large grower to pick his fruit before it is
ripe seldom apply in the case of the small grower.
Early varieties can be picked before they are
fullv ripe and allowed to mature in a cool room.
October 31, 1914-]
THE GARDEN.
531
All late varieties, however, should be allowed to
hang on the tree as long as possible. Such varie-
ties are, among Apples, Lane's Prince Albert,
Newton Wonder, Wellington, Noi-folk Beefing,
Claygate Pearmain, Winter Pearmam or Duck's-
l,)ill, Mannington, Stunner, Alfriston and Court
Pendu Plat ; and, an'iong Pears, Catillac, Easter
Beurre, Beurr^ Ranee, Chaumontel, Beurre
Diel, Durhcsse d'Angoulcme and Doyennfe du
Cornice.
Fruit of these and other late varieties should
be allowed to remain on the trees till the fruit
comes off easily when the Apple or Pear is lifted
and given a slight twist. Care should be taken
not to break off the young fruit-buds at the base
of the stalk, and, of course, fruit should never
be gathered by shaking the tree or other violent
method. Fruit which is to be kept must be
gathered into a basket, preferably lined with some
soft material, such as a piece of cloth, to prevent
bruising. Diseased and damaged fruit should be
placed iu a separate basket.
Storing the Fruit. — The requirements for the
proper storage of Apples and Pears are not the
same. Apples require to be kept in a cool and
rather moist place, where there is enough
ventilation to prevent saturation. Pears re-
quire warm, dry surroundings, but even under
the most favouralile conditions they will not keep
long.
A few days after Apples are put in store they
begin to " sweat," and continue to do so for
about three weeks. DuriTig this time there must
be a free current of air round them, which must
not be too dry, or they will begin to shrivel.
After the "sweating" period is over, this is not
so important. Small growers who have only
a few Apples to keep will find that a good method
is to wait till " sweating " is over, and then pack
them as closely as possible in a large earthenware
jar. The jar should be covered with a piece of
roofing slate or stone and stored in a cool shed
or cellar, and the Apples will keep plump and
good as long as it is possible to keep the variety.
For larger growers a shed or storehouse is
required if no cool cellar is available, and in
preparing a store the following points should be
remembered ;
r. The fruit must be protected from frost, but
subject to this precaution the temperature should
be as low and equable as possible. A cave
in a sand or chalk bank makes an excellent
storehouse.
3. A moist atmosphere is necessary. The best
kind of floor is the bare earth, which may be
damped occasionally.
3. Ventilation to prevent stagnant and heated
air is necessary, especially during the "sweating"
period.
4. Apples easily absorb flavours from their
surroundings. They should not be piit on new
wooden shelves, or on straw or hay, nor should
any strong-smelling vegetable or other material
be kept in the same room. They should be
placed on slate shelves, or old seasoned wood
may be used.
A useful Apple store may be made by digging
a large trench about ten feet wide and as long as
is required. The depth should be about two feet.
A wall one brick thick and about four feet high
should then be built on either side, and the soil
that has been dug out should be heaped up against,
the outside of the wall. A roof of rough rafters
thickly covered with thatch should be built over
the fop, and shelves can then be lilted inside, on
which the Apples may be heaped. There should
be a door at each end so arranged as to admit
air and exclude light.
Apples should never l)e stored in an attic oj-
top rooni of a house.
Grading of Apples and Pears. — If the fruit
is to be consumed bj' the grower, there is
no advantage in selecting the fruit beyond the
fact that it is better to eat the riper speci-
mens first. If the fruit is to bo sold, it is
very important that all the Apples or Pears
offered for sale should be of similar size and
quality. The practice of "topping" the con-
signment with a better class of fruit cannot be
too severely condemned.
The following recommendations are offered for
the guidance of growers who consign their fruit
to market :
r. Apples and Pears should be packed in boxes
of uniform size, and should contain as far a?
possible the same number of fruits. It is more
important, however, that the net weight of the
consignment should be the same than that the
number should be constant. A convenient size
for the boxes is 20 inches long, 10 inches deep
and II inches broad — all inside measurement.
These boxes will hold about forty pounds. They
can be obtained from box-making firms.
2. The approximate weight should be put on
the outside of the box as an indication to the
seller of its contents.
NOTES ON CHRYSANTHE-
MUMS.
A FTKK many miinths of close attention to
/\ I 111- welfare of the plants, the cultivator
/ % will now have a good idea of the quality
/ % of the blooms. All the plants for the
•* *- jiroduclion of large blooms, and others
that are to be used for the furnishing
of the conservatory, greenhouse and porch during
the weeks of Novtmbtr and the early part of
December, will now be under glass.
Ventilation. — ^The cultivator must study the
stale of I he wi ather day by day. The plants need
abundance of fresh air without being subjected
to cold draughts, so that when the weather is
favourable all ventilators should be opened wide,
especially when there is a calm. As the colour of
the petals shows and, in the case of the earliest
varieties, as their blooms open, less air must be
admitted. The fullest ventilation should be
given from ten o'clock to two o'clock. Gradually
increase the ventilation, and also gradually decrease
it in the afternoon. A very sudden decrease would
result in much moisture setthng on the blooms, and
if this happens day after day for a fortnight or so
without adequate artificial heat to dispel it, then
the blooms may become spotted and partly spoiled.
Always reduce the amount of front air more
than the top, and as the blooms approach full
development, almost close the front vcniilatftrs.
CYTISUS KEWENSIS, A CHARMING DWARF SHRUB FOR THE ROCK GARDEN.
3. The name of the consigner, or ,some mark
by which the salesman can identify him, should
be put on the box.
Fruit thus consigned should secure a more
ready sale than fruit badly and iiTegularly
packed, and will lead to better prices and further
orders.
Small growers are strongly advised to satisfy
the local demand for fruit before consignuig
to large markets, as the risk of a glut and
consequent imremunerative prices is thereb\'
avoided."
Watering and Feeding. — As the pots are closer
together than they were outside, and as less air can
pass them, the soil does not dry up as quickly now
that the plants are sheltered. Only apply water in
the forenoon, and also any Uquid manures. Keep
the soil in a regular state of moisture and be careful
not to overfeed the plants. It is an excellent
plan to mix an approved artificial manure with
some rich sifted loam — loam and leaf-soil in equal
proportions — and put on a very thin layer of the
mixture once a week. All water supplied must
be given through a rosed watering-can. Avon.
532
THE GARDEN.
[October 31. 1Q14.
THE LITTLE GARDEN.
FURTHER COMPETITION NOTES.
WE now continue our notes on some
of the prize designs. Miss Isobel
Harding secured the second prize
lor Site No. 4 with a well-thought-
out scheme, which successfully
avoided the difficulties of the
triangular space south of the main front. From
the garden door to the drawing-room there would
be a pretty prospect across the sunk garden to
the thatched summer-house. From the dining-
room a pretty outlook is given into the little
Yew-hedged garden with a semi-circular end.
The standard Apple trees to the north of this
little spot form a good screen between the pleasure
garden and the kitchen garden, and also shut
off the business comer of the garden devoted
to greenhouse and potting-shed. The Mountam Ash
trees between the mam entrance from the road
and the trades entrance would also form a satis-
factory screen, and the servants' little garden
is pleasantly disposed to give an outlook from
the kitchen window. The entrance court is
neatly managed, with a Rose garden to the north-
west of it and a sundial and seat on the axial
line of the entrance door of. the house. The
south comer is also well contrived, and the chief
defect of the scheme is the provision of the long
service path along the south-east boundary which
borders on a road. This would give to the
passer-by an unattractive impression of the
whole garden, and would be uninteresting from
witlrn.
The third prize for Site No. 4 was awarded to
Mr. A. Troyte Griffith. The little hedged entrance
court is distinctly successful, with its trees and
spring garden on the west side. The tennis lawn
is placed north and south, and the south angle
of the site is well employed as a little pool garden
where water plants could seek hospitality. The
best feature of the scheme is the ver\' charming
view which can be got from the paved space on
SITE NO. 4.
SECOND PRIZE DESIGN
ISOBEL H.ARDIXG.
the west side of the house looking througli \'ow
hedges southwards under the pergola to the
octagonal garden-house. The terrace on the
south side of the house with its semi-circular
treatment is a good feature, but Mr. Griffith
has rather tripped over the treatment of the
triangular space between this terrace and the
pergola. The diamond beds would look rather
tiresome, but this is the most serious defect in
the plan. A separate little Rose garden with a
backing of fruit trees is seen from the dining-
room. The kitchen garden in the north-east
comer would be better for some more definite
screen. The servants' little garden opposite
the kitchen window, with its grass plot and herb
border screened from the road and trades
entrance by a Laurel hedge, is happily arranged.
A defect of the design is that Mr. Griffith does
making a feature
of the terrace, but
does not seem to
have considered
the various parts
of the garden in
relation t<.> the
garden doors of the house. He has ventuied
upon that very difficult problem the design
of a rock garden, and, it can scarcely be said,
with any great success. In a general way it is
better not to attempt to combine rockwork with
SITE NO. 4.
THIRD PRIZE DESIGN BY
A. TROYTE GRIFFITH.
not show at what lines he proposes to var>
the levels, an inevitable arrangement in a site
described as sloping 5 feet from north to
south.
We now come to some of the designs to
which book prizes were awarded. Mr. W. A.
Wills secured one for his treatment of Site
No. 2, and we now reproduce his perspec-
tive sketch of the scheme as it would be seen
from the windows of the principal rooms.
The area is well subdivided without being
too much cut up, and the curved edge at the
end of the lawn, with its Yew arch leadini
formal t-lements
like a Rose par-
terre, as in this
case. Rockwork
is much better
treatrd as an
site no. v — third prize design by
kenni:th dalgliesh.
independent
item, and altogether screened from the more
t.i a pergola, would make an effective little I regular features of the garden. The placing
scheme, the vista being closed by an octagonal I of the Rose pergola has also proved some-
arbour. The kitchen garden is divided in I what of a snare. It has its value in dividing
a practical way, and it is evidently the | the Rose garden from the herbaceous garden,
intention to divide it from the flower garden but it is placed o\pr a path which does not lead
by a stout hedge, though this is not shown to anywhere in particular. The pergola should
on Mr. Wills' plan. always be regarded as a connecting link between
We also reproduce .Air. Weall's design for . two definite parts of the garden, and not as a thing
Site No. 2, which also secured a book prize.
He has utilised the slope of the site by
which is justified in its own right wherever it
may be put.
October 31, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
533
Miss Norah Geddes has devised an interesting
and simple sclieme for the same site, but, as in
all the designs she submitted, has concentrated
too much attention on flowers, to the almost
complete disregard of vegetables. The scheme,
therefore, is not so well balanced as it should be.
In a design of this kind, which is very simple in
its outlines, success would depend chiefly on the
planting scheme. The little arbour seat to the
north of the lawn is intended to be covered
with Sweet Pea Tennant Spencer, Clarkia,
Delphinium, Monthly Roses, &c. The same
criticisms apply to the design by Miss Geddes
for Site No. 3 (not reproduced). The scheme is
good, but there is no space allowed for \egetables.
/pi^loyMii p^7^iS|?i I
,Li_i_uul_i_1:jJ . ^.
r^L-'_l_L^L_L_.L_L-i_.l.-LI_:_L-l_l_U
■ I ' T I I T PT I t I » I »
which is hardly reasonable in a garden of such
a size.
A final series of prize designs will be reproduced
next week. L. W.
SEASONABLE NOTES ON
VEGETABLES.
m iTti/f
Hi
at all, give the roots a thorough soaking of
water before earthing, which will hasten growth
considerably. When earthing Celery with soil,
great care should be taken to make sure the
soil does not get into the centre of the
plants or be chopped down from the side in
large lumps, which press tmduly on the plants,
forcing them out of an upright position, and
rendering them unsightly when dug. In chopping
the soil down on each side of the trench, it
should be made quite fine and be evenly placed
about the p'ants, at the same time holding
these quite upright with the leaves kept close
together, either by tying them with raffia or held
SITE NO. 2. DESIGN BY J . A. WEALL.
Borage, Balm, Sweet Basil, Anise, Chamumile,
Chervil, Hyssop, Fennel, Sweet and Pot Marjoram,
Chives, Thyme and Lemon Thyme, Rosemary.
Horehound, Parsley, Winter Savory, Dill, Rue
and French Sorrel. Quite small pieces of each
quickly grow into serviceable clumps. After
planting, mulch the surface with half-decayed
leaves mixed with old potting soil and wood-
ashes.
Rhubarb. — Lift crowns for an early supply,
placing them in a Mushroom-house where such
a structure exists. Under the stage in the green-
house or stove, or in a closely fitting deep box in
the stokehole near the boiler will suffice if
sufficient moisture is provided.
Salsify and Scorzonera should be lifted and
stored in road sand in a cool frost-proof shed
or cellar, cutting off the tops not too near the
Cabbages. — Continue to put out batches of
plants on vacant plots, where Potatoes have been
lifted, for example. All that is required in the
way of preparation is to remove the haulm and
any diseased tubers, and level the surface with
a fork or rake. Draw drills 18 inches or 2 feet
apart with the comer of a hoe, and dibble the
plants in 9 inches apart if space is limited, as
alternate plants can be cut out in the spring
when half-grown to give space to those left to
grow to full size. Give the plants a good soaking
of water to induce them to make a quick start
into growth. Such varieties as Favourite, April,
Harbinger, Pioneer, Model and Springtide are all
good.
Celery. — Continue to earth up all batches
as growth proceeds. In the case of that blanched
with brown paper for early supplies, and also
the latest batch which has not been eartheu
by the hand whUe the soil is placed around the
plants.
Herbs. — Now is a good time to replant, reduce
or increase the varieties, according to requirements.
As a rule, these necessary ingredients of the
kitchen are almost ignored or put in any out-
of-the-way corner and much neglected. A narrow
east border is a suitable site. Each kind should
have its small allotted space, and, when carefully
attended to, this phase of the garden can be
made quite interesting and useful. Deeply
trenched but not too heavily manured soil is
necessary to ensure success. If the soil is stiff
I and retentive of moisture and naturally cold in
the spring, deep trenching is a boon to
these plants, as they lie drier during the winter
and are not nearly so liable to decay at the roots.
Small patches of each will be ample to meet the
requirements of an ordinary household. The salient
kinds are Mint, red and green Sage, Tarragon,
SITE NO. 2. DESIGN BY NORAH GEDDES.
crown. Carefully remove the soil so that the
rootlets are not broken too much.
Turnips for Winter Use which are large enough
should be stored in a cool place in sand, first
cutting ofi their tops not too close to the crown.
A little frost would not hurt them, but the storing
checks the growth. Later crops which are half or
less gro\vn should have the soil frequently stirred
between the rows, and, if a tender variety, should,
on the approach of frost, have a little soil drawn
over the crowns as a protection.
Parsley. — Thin the plants where too crowded,
either by removal of the large old leaves or by
drawing a plant here and there, as, the stockier
the plants are, the more likelihood there will he of
their standing well through the winter. Continue
to prick out plants in frames as a certain means of
providing a full supply during adverse weather in
the winter. Temporary tinf pits covered with old
lights answer this purpose. Any means adopted of
affording protection from snow, frost or heavy
rain is all in favour of this herb.
Carrots. — The main batch should be lifted,
cleaned, dried and stored in sand in a frost-proof
THE GARDEN.
[OCTOEER 31, 1914,
shed. Growing plants in frames should be thinned,
the soil stirred, sprinkling soot over the leaves,
and keeping the frames closer and protected at
night to encourage quick growth.
Seakale. — .\n early batch of roots should be
dug up and placed in their winter quarters, whether
in large pots with an inverted one on top, or in
boxes or pits in the Mushroom-house, and be kept
next is 6 inches tu 7 inches from tlie tirst, and so
on for four or five rows, increasing the next few
rows to half an inch wider apart. The first circle
is then drawn with a peg round the centre, and
the first row of Aubrietias planted 7 inches to
8 inches apart. To ensure the Tulips coming
alternately in the row, the Aubrietias in the
rows must be even in number. Thus, if eight
FIG. I. DOTS. AUBRIETIA : CIRCLES,
MAY-FLOWERIXG TULIPS ; TWO
moist and free from light by covering the crowns
with freshly gathered clean Oak or Beech leaves.
Swanmore. Hants. E. Molyneu.x.
SOME
HINTS ON
BEDDING.
SPRING
[CoiUiuued from page 503.)
H.WING given a brief accoimt of how
the plants are produced, I %vill now
describe how the beds are planted.
For a number of years I have adopted
a system of planting the principal
beds with earl}^ and May flowering
Tulips in the same bed, selecting as nearly as
possible the same colour from each class, thus
prolonging the show of bloom to two months
instead of one, the May-flowering Tulips coming
into flower as the earlv ones go ofi. As the season
of growth is limited, thick planting is necessary
if the beds are to be effective ; also the bulbs
are planted in between the plants in the row,
and- not between the rows, thus giving room for
the use of the Dutch hoe in the early spring
without any fear of injuring the bulbs.
The beds in the principal gardens here are
circular and oblong alternately on each side of
the main path or thoroughfare to the sea. They
are usually planted in pairs opposite each other.
The circular beds are 14 feet in diameter, and
have one tall Dracaena australis in the centre
of each. The oblong beds have semi-circular
ends, and are 23 feet by I4'feet.
Preparing the Beds. — The beds are prepared
in the usual way, dug deeply, and manured where
necessary. Soot is added where Pansies and
Violas are planted, and lime in the Wallflower beds.
If possible, the beds are dug over in the morning
of the day they are planted, well trodden with
the feet, and raked over %vith a wooden rake. By
so doing they are in much better condition for
planting than if dug a few days previously. The
circular beds are marked out as sho^Ti in Fig. i
for convenience in planting. Assuming the bed
is for Aubrietia, with two rows on the edge for
white Daisies or Alyssum saxatile compactum,
the first peg is 8 inches from the grass edge, the
EARLY FLOWERING TULIPS : CROSSES,
OUTSIDE LINES, WHITE DAISIES.
be
plants are in the first row. eight Tulips can
planted, four of each, early and May flowering.
Planting. — The Aubrietias are first planted
firmly and then the bulbs between them, each
row being completed before another is begun.
This is continued right out to the third row from
the edge. The two rows of edging are planted
without any bulbs between them. The foregoing
remarks also apply to all the circular beds planted
with Pansies, Violas, Polyanthuses, double Arabis,
Daisies and Myosotis. The circular beds of
Wallflowers are planted in a similar manner ;
but the space between the rows and the plants
in the row is increased according to the size of
the plants, viz., 8 inches to 9 inches between the
rows and 10 inches to 12 inches between the
plants. In the latter are usually planted old
May-flowering Tulips (:»r tall-growing Narcissi
between the plants. ^
The Oblong Beds are planted in the same w-ay
as the fircul.vr ones, the rows marked at the end with
Da_>sies. early Tulip Ophir d'Or and .May-flowering
Tulip Bouton d'Or.
2. Aubrietia Jlodel. two rows of Alyssum
saxatile compactum. early Tulip Princess .Marianne,
and May-flowering Tulip Picotce. Other Tulips
which may be used are Yellow Prince (early)
and gesneriana lutea (May-flowering).
3. Double Arabis, two rows of Aubrietia Model
or Dr. Mules, early Tulip Thomas Moore and
May-flowering Tulip La MerveUle. Other Tulips :
Dusart. Mr. Stanley or Prince of Austria (early),
and macrnspeila, gt-Sneriana rosea and g. major
(May-flowering).
4. Polyanthuses (yellow .or white), tw-o rows of
crimson Polyanthuses or two rows of pink Daisies,
early Tulip President Lincoln and May-flowering.
Tulip Blushing Bride. Other Tulips ; Eleanor
(early) and Inglescombe Pink (May-flowering).
5. Pansies or Violas mixed (two rows of white
or two rows of yellow), early Tulip Keizerskroon
and May-flowering Tulip Royal Crown,
6. Giant White Daisies and two rows of Aubrietia
Dr. Mules. Tulips as in No. 3.
7. Myosotis Royal Blue, two rows of Alyssum
saxatile compactum or two rows of Giant White
Daisy. Tulips as in Nos. i and 2.
8. Wallflowers (dark) and two rows of yellow,
cream or white Narcissus Poeticus oniatus or N.
Poetaz Elvira.
9. Wallflowers (yellow, cream or white), two
rows of dark Wallflowers or two rows of Myosotis
Royal Blue and Tulip gesneriana rosea or g. major.
The foregoing, I think, gives a fair idea of how
the beds may be planted. In Fig. 2 I give par-
ticulars of a portion of the beds in another garden
and a description of how they were planted one
season.
I. Wallflowers (dark), two rows of double
Arabis and Narcissus Poeticus omatus.
2 and 3. Polyanthuses (mixed), one row of
yellow Polyanthuses, early Tulip Artus and May-
flowering Tulip Blushing Bride.
4 and 5. Polyanthuses (crimson), one row of
white Polyanthuses, early Tulip Ophir d'Or and
ilay-flowering Tulip Bouton d'Or.
6 and 7. Erysimmn Golden Gem, one row of
.\ubrietia Jlodel, early Tulip Mr. Stanley and
/
FIG. 2, (l) 24 FEET X 9 FEET; (i AND 3) 34 FEET X 4 FEET 6 INCHES I (4 AND 5)
18 FEET 6 INCHES >; 4 FEET 6 INCHES ; (6 AND 7) 33 FEET X 4 FEET 6 INCHES.
pegs as shown in Fig. i. Planting is begun in
the centre and planted zigzag as shown. In
planting the bulbs in the last row each side, they
are continued round the ends between the plants.
Some Excellent Arrangements. — The following
are some of the arrangements of plants and bulbs
in the oblong and circular beds, as shown in
Fig. I :
I. Aubrietia Hendersonii, two rows of wliite
May-floweruig Tulip Inglescombe Pink. The
Erysimum is a good spring bedding plaitt, flowering
earlier than the Wallflower, and I grow it the
same as described lor the Wallflowers.
I could give many i>ther ideas for planting beds
and borders, but the foregoing I consider sufticient
to guide anyone interested in the subject.
J. B. Stevenson.
Chine Callage, Boumcmcmth.
October 31, 1914.
THE GARDEN.
535
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruit Under Glass.
The Early Vinery. — If ripe Grapes are required
in May, this should be shut up during the first week
of November and started with a night temperature
of 55°. Maintain a moist atmosphere by fre-
quently syringing the walls and floor of the house,
and the Vines will benefit by a light damping
when the weather is bright. When the buds
begin to swell, the night temperature must be
raised to 60°. The border should be examined
and, if dry, thoroughly moistened with clear soft
water at a temperature of 70°.
Early Figs in Pots. — These should be placed
under cover at once. Examine the crocks of
each pot, and give a surface-dressing of loam and
decayed manure. This must be made firm,
leaving sufficient space for a liberal supply of
water.
Strawberry Plants for Forcing. — Careful atten-
tion will be necessary with regard to watering
these plants. If dry weather continues, the
roots must not be allowed to suffer for the want
of water. On the other hand, if heavy rain sets
in, the plants will require the protection of a
cold frame, especially those plants for early forcing.
Plants Under Glass.
Roses in Pots which have been grown in the
open during the summer should now be removed
to some sheltered position where the pots can
be protected from frost in the winter. If a few
early blooms are desired, a limited number of
plants may be placed in gentle heat now, but
previous to this the drainage should be examined
and the pots washed, after which a top-dressing
of rich loam and decayed cow-manure may be
given.
Violets in Pits. — Abundance of air should be
given to Violet plants in pits ; in fact, they will
benefit by the removal of the lights during mild
weather. If the soil is at all dry, a thorough
watering ought to be given before it is necessary
to close the pits at night. Nothing is more detri-
mental to Violets during the winter than a close,
stagnant atmosphere.
Achimenes and Caladiums. — The pots con-
taining these tubers should now be laid on their
sides under the stage of a warm house, where they
may remain during the winter.
Palms. — Now that the pots are well filled
with roots, an occasional watering of liquid manure
may be given. Take advantage of dull days
to sponge the foliage, and if scale or other insects
are present, some approved insecticide should
be employed to destroy them. Syringe the plants
freely during bright weather. Very little shading
or airing will be necessary now, providing the
atmosphere is kept sufficiently moist.
The Flower Garden.
Spanish Irises and late-flowering Tulips should
be planted at once if not already done. The
soil for this purpose must be rich and deeply
cultivated if the best results are to be obtained.
Old clumps of these bulbs should be lifted
before growth commences, and the soil enriched
by a good dressing of old manure from the
Mushroom - house or a spent hot-bed. Deep
cultivation is of more importance than many
people think.
Violas. — If the old plants have been cut back
in the autumn, numerous young shoots should
now be ready for propagation. If carefully
removed from the old stools and inserted in sandy
soil quite near the glass in a cold frame, they will
soon make roots. Keep the pit closed until
growth commences, after which the lights must
be removed until sharp frost sets in. By this
means good, strong plants will be ready to put
out in March.
Antirrhinums. — Cuttings of the best varieties
may still be taken and inserted in pans or boxes
with a view to retaining distinct colours for early
summer blooming. In selecting the cuttings,
only such as are without flower-buds ought to
be taken. The soil should be freely mixed with
sharp silver sand.
The Rock Garden.
Plumbago Larpentse. — This is a very desirable
plant for the rock garden. In September it is
covered with beautiful blue flowers, and lasts
so imtil the end of October, or later if the weather
is mild. In all cases it is desirable to plant in a
sunny position, either above the upper edges
of vertical stones on the rockwork or on a sunny
bank. Sandy loam is the most suitable soil for
it. The stock may be increased by division
either after flowering or in the spring.
Hardy Fruit.
The Fruit-Room. — There must be no lack of
attention in the fruit-room for the next two
months. Give just sufficient air to carry off the
moisture, but nothing more at present, for a
strong current of air is almost sure to cause early
fruits to shrivel. Examine the fruits twice weekly,
and remove all which show signs of decay.
Wall Trees. — While the weather is favourable
the planting of wall trees should be pushed forward
as quickly as possible. See that the soil is
thoroughly drained and of such a nature as will
promote the growth of clean, healthy trees. If
young, home-grown trees are available, they
may be lifted and transplanted with a good ball
of soil, with a fair prospect of carrying a few fruits
next season. In the case of Apricots and Cherries,
a good quantity of old lime rubble ought to be
mixed with the soil, especially if this is of a heavy
nature.
The Kitchen Garden.
Leeks. — The main crop of Leeks should be
given frequent waterings of liquid manure. Few
garden crops will repay the cultivator better for
liberal treatment in this way than the Leek, which
is a gross feeder, and the larger the specimen
the better will be the flavour.
Winter Spinach. — All decaying leaves must
be removed as they appear and the soil between
the rows moved with a Dutch hoe. A slight
sprinkling of soot should be applied to promote
healthy growth and keep slugs in check.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Parsley. — To provide a constant supply of
this indispensable garnishing during the winter
requires somewhat more than ordinary attention
bestowed on its cultivation. As has already
been pointed out, the plants for this supply should
now be safely under the protection of at least
a cold frame. To give a constant supply it will
be necessary to pick the Parsley fairly close and
remove all decayed leaves from time to time.
Where, however, a very limited supply is required,
a few plants should be carefully lifted, potted
into 6-inch pots, and placed in a cold frame or
on a greenhouse shelf, where a useful picking
may be had.
Cabbages. — To provide a supply to follow
those that were planted towards the end of
August, a few plants may still be planted in rows on
ground that has recently been cleared of late
Potatoes.
Herbs.— -Although a number of these will
have been cut and dried for winter use, they are
poor substitutes for the fresh young leaves that
can be obtained from plants that are forced.
As Tarragon and Mint are the two most in demand,
a few roots should be lifted, placed in boxes,
and introduced into heat as required, In this
connection it is important to remember that as
they are moisture-loving plants, they must on
no account be allowed to become dry at any time.
The Flower Garden.
Violas. — In many districts difficulty has been
experienced in securing a sufficient number of
cuttings of some of the best varieties. There
need not, however, be any alarm in this respect,
as with a good, healthy stock there is still time
to make up the shortage. If each cutting taken
now has a small portion of the root attached,
it will quickly establish itself in a cold frame.
Old roots should be rim out into nursery lines.
and, if required, can be divided and planted in
the spring.
Montbretias. — In many cases it is not necessary
to lift and store Montbretia bulbs in the late
autumn. Still, in the majority of places in the
North it will be advisable to lift and store the
bulbs as soon as the foliage dies down. Place
them in boxes of sand and store in cold frames.
During wet weather, or when outside work is at
a standstill, the clumps should be divided, selecting
the largest bulbs and replacing them again in
boxes until planting-time in the spring. In the
case of choice varieties, the small bulbs ought
to be preserved and planted out in the reserve
border, where by another season they should
attain flowering siz''.
Plants Under Glass.
Freesias. — The earliest lot should now be
sufficiently advanced to admit of the plants
being gently forced ; this must, of coiurse, be
done gradually. The shoots should be neatly
staked and the plants kept as close to the glass
as possible. As soon as the flower-buds appear,
liquid manure may be given, or, failing that,
some approved plant food.
Cyclamen. — Yomig plants from a sowing made
in ,\ugust should now be ready for pricking off.
Prick these into shallow boxes about three inches
apart, using a compost comprising loam, leaf-
mould and good silver sand. The moving of the
tiny plants must be carefully done, as the roots
are easily damaged. These may, of course, be
placed in small pots at once, but when boxes are
used the plants seem to get away better. Place
them near the glass in a temperature of about
60° and syringe lightly' on fine days.
Richardias (Arums). — In order to have these
in flower by Christmas, no time must be lost
in putting a number of plants into heat. For
this early flowering select plants that have not
been turned out of their pots during the resting
period, as it has been found that they force
more readily than those that were planted
out. As soon as growth advances they should
be assisted with liquid manure or some good
fertiliser.
Cinerarias. — After this date it will not be
safe to let these remain in cold frames, unless,
of course, they can be heated in some way. In
any case perhaps it will be better to stand them
in a cool, airy house where fire-heat is only turned
on to exclude frost. In turning them over, make
a close examination for leaf-grub and have it
destroyed. The house must be fumigated at
intervals to prevent an attack of green fly.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Gooseberry and Currant Cuttings. — Although
young bushes of these can be bought for a very
modest sum, it is sometimes advisable to have a
stock of home-raised bushes. In the case of
Gooseberries and Red and White Currants, the
cuttings should be selected from straight, medium-
sized growths, with a heel attached if possible ;
this, of course, is not necessary. Rub out the
lower buds to prevent suckers appearing. These
cuttings ought to be shortened somewhat and
placed upright in a trench 6 inches deep, and when
filling in the soil see that the grormd is made
very firm. In the case of Black Currants, the
same treatment should be given, except that the
buds must not be removed from the lower part
of the shoot. With Black Currants suckers are to
be encouraged.
Fruit Under Glass.
Figs. — Unless the roots of Fig trees are confined
in a comparatively small space by means of
brick walls, it is very diflScult to keep them in a
fruitful state. Trees that have made an abundance
of growth usually produce a very poor crop of
fruit. These should now be attended to, and in
some cases drastic measures must be resorted to.
Open a trench round the tree and as close to the
trunk as can be done with safety. Fork out the
soil from underneath, cutting back all strong
roots going downwards and trimming any that
may be damaged. Before proceeding to fill in
the trench, ram some lime rubble or broken bricks
underneath the ball to encourage surface rooting.
In filling in the trench, use good loam and lime
rubble, and on no account add manure to the
soil. John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hope'oun Gardens, South Queensferry, N.B.
536
THE GARDEN.
[October 31, 1914.
NEW AND RARE PLANTS.
FIRST-CLASS CERTIFICATE.
Laelia pumila alba Orchid Dene Variety. —
The pretty and pure white dwarf-growing variety
bore a one-flowered scape perhaps not more than
4 inches to 5 inches high. The flower, however,
was exceedingly pure in tone throughout, and very
solid-looking. From Messrs. E. H. Davidson and
Co., Twyford.
AWARDS OF MERIT.
Laelio-Cattleya Lady Oliphant (L.-C. Norba x
Souv. de Queen Victoria). — A distinct and beautiful
variety in which the sepals and petals are soft
chrome yellow, the pronounced fringed lip being
wholly coloured rosy crimson.
From Pantia Ralli, Esq., Ashtead
Park.
Carnation Wivelsfield White.—
This handsome variety has been
exhibited on many occasions,
though not hitherto presented
for an award, the raisers pre-
ferring to first fully test its
merits. It now figures among the
indispensable market whites — no
mean tribute to the excellence of
a Carnation of any colour to-day.
Wedded to purity of tone, infor-
mality and easy development is
a fragrance that will render it
popular in any collection. From
Messrs. Allwood Brothers, Hay-
ward's Heath.
Begonia Mrs. Harry Barton
(see illustration). ■ — In specimen
form, as shown, this is decorative
and distinct in colour, the creamy-
coloured flowers, profusely borne,
extending in well-branched trusses.
So far as we remember, nothing
like it in the winter - flowering
Begonias has appeared hitherto.
It is said to be a sport from
Emily Clibran. Exhibited by
Miss Tanner, Caldccote Towers,
Bushey Park, Herts.
Chrysanthemum James Stred-
Wiek. — An exhibition Japanese
variety of goodly proportions with
drooping florets, and coloured a
terra-cotta shade. The variety as
shown displayed not a little
refinement. From Messrs. J.
Stredwick and Sons, St. Lconards-
on-Sea.
Chrysanthemum W. Rigby.—
An exhibition Japanese variety of
the incurved type. It is of massive proportions,
without coarseness, and of a rich yellow colour.
Handsome from the exhibitor's standpoint. Ex-
hibited by the Rev. Canon Cooper Marsden, D.D.,
Bickley, Kent.
Dahlia Deveron. — A Collarette variety of rosy
cerise tone and nearly white inner florets. It is
exceedingly showy, and of a shade that shows well
under artificial light. From Messrs. Dobbie and
Co., Edinburgh.
gathered fruits in February last, subject to it
passing the cooking and cropping tests, and also
that of habit of growth. These having proved
satisfactory, the award has now been confirmed.
No fruits were shown at this meeting. Exhibitor,
Mr. Peters, Leatherhead.
All the foregoing were showai before the
Royal Horticultural Society on the 20th inst.,
when the awards were made.
BOOKS.
Recent Investigations on Apple Scab. —
A large amount of literature has appeared dealing
NEW FRUIT.
Apple Harry Pring. — A culinary sort which
received an award of merit when shown as
THE NEW WINTER-FLOWERING BEGONIA MRS. HARRY
THE FLOWERS ARE CREAM COLOURED.
with Apple scab in all countries where the Apple
crop is an important one, for, in all, scab ranks,
just as it does here, as one of the worst troubles
from which plants suffer. One of the latest
contributions* to the subject is that of Mr. E.
Wallace of the Cornell University, and it may not
be inappropriate to summarise his remarks at
this season, when scab is most evident. The
symptoms of scab on the leaves are first an olive
discoloration on the lower surface, which becomes
darker and assumes a velvety appearance. On
the upper surface the spots are at first lighter ;
later the tissue under the spot is often killed and
• Cornill R\p. Station, Itluca, U.S.A., Bull. 335;
September, 1913.
browned. On the fruit almost black spots,
becoming reddish brown and sharply bordered,
are produced, the central part finally becoming
brown, bare and corky, with a b'.ack margin.
Cracking of the fruit occurs in many varieties.
The disease also attacks the twigs, apparently
rarely in America, more commonly in this country.
McAlpine estimated the loss due to this disease
in Victoria to amount to £40,000, and the author
estimates the loss in the States, where there are
over five million acres of Apples, at approximately
nine million pounds sterling. Not only is the
market value of the Apples diminished by the
attack, but they are rendered smaller, and various
rot-producing fungi attack them through the
damaged spots. All the species of Pyrus of the
Apple group appear to be open
to attack, including Pyrus
spectabilis, P. Kaido, P. flori-
bunda, P. baccata, P.
prunifolia, P. rivularis and P.
dioica, and the fungus can
apparently pass from one '
species to another. The similar
disease on the Pear is, however,
produced by a different species
of fungus, though very closely
allied. The author gives a long
and valuable account of the
various stages through which the
fungus pass, which we may
pass over, and turn to the
measures of control which he
advocates. These consist of (i)
sanitary measures, (2) selection
of resistant varieties, and (3)
spraying. The sanitary measures
include the turning in of dead
leaves and the pruning of the
tree so as to keep it open.
In addition, in England the
cutting out of infected and
dying shoots is important. Un-
fortunately, few varieties really
worth growing are free from
scab attack, so that selection
of resistant varieties offers little
hope of success in Apple-
growing. Along with sanitary
measures, spraying is important.
Dust sprays can be employed
with greater economy than liquid
sprays ; but, unfortunately, they
do not appear to be effective
in controlling the disease.
Bordeaux mixture and lime-sul-
phur sprays seem the best, and
BARTON TOnsidcrablc success has followed
the adelition of iron sulphate
to the self-boiled lime-sulphur
washes. The greatest importance attaches to
the time of application. In the author's
experience winter spraying has little effect, and
he considers the best time for the first application
of the spray to be just as the buds show pink.
A second should be made as soon as the petals
have fallen, and a third about a fortnight or
three weeks after this. Sometimes another in
July or August is called for. Rainy weather is
the time wi eu infection is most likely to occur,
and a spray with mole 01 less adiiesive properties
should be chosen so as to withstand S( me amount
of washing without damage. These measures
combined have proved very effective in the States
in holding the disease in check.
October 31, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
537
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
Every department of horticulture is represented in The
Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions
relating to matters upon which they tvish expert advice.
The Editor ivelcomes pliotographs, articles and notes,
but he ivilt not be responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, fioivever, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.
As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It 7nust be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright tvill be treated with.
Tfie Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence tfiat an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden ivill alone
be recognised as acceptance.
Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C.
TO
ANSWERS
CORRESPONDENTS.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS.— TAe Editor endeavours to
make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object makes a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All cominunications should be
clearly and concisely ivritten on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or inoss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher.
FLOWER GARDEN.
ANTIRRHINUMS DISEASED {Oak - leaf, British
Columbia). — The Antirrhinums are attacked by the fungus
Puccinia antirrhine. This fungus is unknown on this
side of the Atlantic ; but, judging from the reports that
have appeared and from the specimen you send us, we
think it must be a very virulent disease indeed. You have
done quite right to destroy the affected plants, and as
the disease is unknown here, we think it extremely probable
that it has been contracted from wild plants growing in
its neighbourhood. Not only are Antirrhinums attacked,
but some species of Linaria too. As a precautionary
measure we advise you to spray young plants with
Bordeaux mixture or with potassium permanganate at
intervals all through their growth. We think if you adopt
this precaution you will avoid the attack another season.
ROSE GARDEN.
SELECTION OF RAMBLER ROSES FDR SEVEN-
FOOT SCREEN {M. M. E. C.).— Your selection is, on the
whole, a good one ; but instead of Mme. Alfred Carri^re,
which grows so very rampantly, and is really more suitable
for a lofty arch or wall, we would suggest MTiite Tausend-
sch6n or Lady Waterlow ; and as you have no good red,
we recommend Excelsa in place of Climbing Captain
Christy. The variety Juliet is not a bedding Rose, as it
flowers sparsely in the autumn. It is best grown as a
pillar or free bush, when it is very beautiful.
ROSE GROWTH FOR EXAMINATION {R. F. C.).—
The piece of growth sent is that of the De !a Grifferaie
stock. This stock is used by some growers for Tea and
Hybrid Tea Koses. It is a very good one in many
respects, but its suckers are very troublesome, and not
readily detected. It is also a bad stock for mildew. Often
one may see this Rose flourishing upon a wall where some
climbing variety has been planted. The original Rose
has died, and this vigorous stock has taken its place, to
the disgust of its owner. We remember reading in one
of Dean Hole's books how some enthusiastic amateur
took him to view a very vigorous plant of Marfichal Niel,
but which had never blossomed. When the witty Dean
saw the plant, he could understand the reason for its not
flowering, because it was simply the Manetti stock, which
rarely blossoms. If Roses arc obtained on the Briar
stock, their suckers are readily distinguished.
FRUIT GARDEN.
BEURRE DIEL PEARS CRACKING (M. F.A.).—Vlea&e
see reply to " Down Place " in last week's issue.
FIG TREE DROPPING ITS FRUIT (Mrs. Craig).-~ThG
Fig tree has failed to develop and carry its fruit to maturity
because the flowers of the fruit failed to set seeds. By
cutting a fruit you will see that there are no live or hard
seeds in it (this is a first essential to fertility in all
fruits). The cause of this is generally attributed to the
soft and immature condition of the wood of the prc\"ious
year's growth (the shoot which produces the fruit). The
way to remedy this is by thinning out many of the branches
of the previous year's gro\vth at the wintrr pruning,
especially the weak shoots and in parts where the tnc nuiy
be overcrowded with them. This will expo^i; tin- shoois loft
to more sunshine and air,causingthcgro\vtliof tlie shoots of
next year to bo harder, better matured and more fertile.
Your tree being raised from a sucker makes no difference.
KITCHEN GARDEN.
CELERY FOR INSPECTION (Colsoncott).— Your Celery
is attacked by the fungus Scptoria Petroselini Apii,
causing disease and death of the leaves and giving them
the rusty appearance they exhibit. No cure is possible
when the disease has assumed the proportions it has in
this case, and the best that can be done is to pick off all
the diseased parts and burn them, spraying the rest with
Bordeaux mixture or with potassium sulphide (loz. to
three gallons of water). The disease is carried mostly in
the seed, and next year care should be taken to procure
seed from a good source.
POTATO ATTACKED BY BLACK SCAB DISEASE
(B. S.). — We regret to say that the Potato you send is
attacked by the disease called black scab, due to the fungus
Synchitrium endobioticum. No cure is known, and
when once the disease has attacked the plants the soil
is almost certain to have become affected, and succeeding
crops of Potatoes are liable to the same disease. You
must notify the Board of Agriculture, 8, Whitehall
Place, London, S.W., of the attack, A penalty is attached
to concealment or failure to give the notification. It
would be well to destroy by fire all the affected tubers,
and either not to grow Potatoes in the affected land for
eight years at least, or to grow only varieties not subject
to attack, a list of which can be obtained from the Board
of Agriculture.
MUSHROOMS IN FIELD OR GARDEN (Mushrooms).—
Mushrooms planted in field or garden are always an
uncertain crop, and one which can never be depended
on to come true to time. One season there may be a
heavy crop, whereas the next year there may be none
at all. Your best way to secure a succession of supplies
will be to plant with spawn the area you mention, both
in field and garden. It is too late to plant the spawn
in the natural ground out of doors now. The best time
is the end of May Break a brick of spawn into four
pieces and plant each in the ground a foot apart, always
just deep enough for the pieces of spawn to be coverrd
over an inch deep. Cover over with loamy soil and
tread down very firmly. In about a month after spa^^Tiing,
should the ground he dry and the weather warm (not
otl>erwise), give the spawn a moderate ■u'atering, and
look out for Mushrooms at the usual time in the autumn.
HOW TO USE CHICORY (Thames Valley).— Chicory
is largely grown as a winter salad, for which purpose,
mixed with Lettuce and other salad plants, it is excellent.
At the end of October the roots may be dug up and stored
out of doors in clumps with Potatoes, or, if preferred,
they may be left in the ground through the winter (the
plant is quite hardy) and the roots taken up in batches
for forcing as required. The forcing of the roots usually
commences at the end of October, and may be continued
by planting successional batches throughout the winter
(provided plenty of roots are available). Cut off all the
lower half of the" roots and plant the top parts close together
in large pots or boxes of any sort of light soil, and place
in some position which can be kept warm and dark,
such as a Mushroom-house or underneath the stage of
a glass house or a stove house (this could be darkened).
In such a position the roots would soon be excited into
leaf growth. (It is these leaves so forced which are
used for salad.) They should be cut off when 6 inches
long before they get too old, or they become bitter and
fiablay. The roots are of no further use after the leaves
have been cut off. They should be thrown away and the
soil replanted with new roots.
MISCELLANEOUS.
WIREWORMS EATING PLANTS (C. P. X.)— Your
best plan will be to trap the wireworms as completely
as possible by means of pieces of Potato or Carrot sunk
in the ground. Constant hoeing and cultivation through-
out the season is the best means of dealing with the pest,
and the use of superphosphate has some effect in keeping
it in check, or causing it to keep on the move.
VARIOUS QUESTIONS (A. Vaughan).—(1) The Celery
is attacked by the fungus Septoria Petroselini Apii.
Please refer to reply to '* Colsoncott." (2) The Beet
is attacked by Beet rust, due to Uromyces betse. It is
not likely to make much difference at this season of the
year, but it indicates the lack of potash in the soil, and we
advise you to giveadrcssingof a potassium manure, such as
potassium sulphate, before gromng Beet in the soil again.
(3) We can find no disease due to fungus or insect attack
on the foliage of the Salsify sent.
MAKING A SHELTER (W. S. £.).— Seeing that the
proposed site is sheltered on all but its north aspect, it
would be quite easy to convert it into a shelter, though
we fail to see what service it would be for such things
as Dahlias, unless these were planted within it in spring.
The laths you speak of would do well for the sides, and
need not be closely fixed ; an inch asunder would be better.
This material would be rather heavy for the tep, and
tiffany, scrim or canvas would do quite well, as these
keep out several degrees of frost. If you make the top
span-roofed, after the manner of a small greenhouse, you
might use Rush or Reed mats for the top, or the ordinary
Russian or Archangel mats, either of which could be
fixed at the ridge and be rolled up and down at will by the
aid of a pulley, cord and roller. In all the circumstances,
however, we think the sides made of laths, and with
canvas or tiffany for the roof, would meet your require-
ments and not obstruct too much light.
VARIOUS QUESTIONS (Bourne).— V/ith the further
particulars regarding your Pelargoniums, we still think
that the gas is a very likely cause of the trouble. Besides
this, there are undoubtedly errors in cultivation, for you
speak of giving them a little water every day. As pointed
out in our letter, this is the worst possible thing you could
do, the correct course being to allow the soil to become dry
(not parched), and then give a thorough watering, which
is best accomplished by soaking in a pail of water and
allowing them to drain before returning them to their
place. In all probability the roots are in a sorry plight,
and this would be considerably aggravated by the frequent
doses of fertiliser, as stimulants should only be used
on plants whose roots are in a good, healthy state, and able
to derive nourishment therefrom. K you examine the
roots of your plants you will very likely find them con-
siderably decayed, in which case the best thing to do is
to shake them clear of the old soil and repot in some good,
sweet compost, such as loam lightened by a little leaf-
mould and sand. Until the roots are active, watering
must be very carefully carried out. Gas would not in
any way injure plants in the open borders near the
windows of the rooms where it is used, as, of course, the
fumes are at once c-arried away by the outside air. There
are no flowering plants that would not be affected by gas
in the room in which they are growing, and we can only
assume that, in the case of the windows full of beautiful
flowering plants of which you have been told, they were
grown elsewhere and taken indoors when at their best.
The most successful gas-resisting foliage plants would
include Aspidistra, Aralia Sieboldii, Araucaria excelsa,
Asparagus Sprengeri, Cyperus alternifolius, Cordyline
australis, and the hardier Palms such as Corypha australis,
Latania borbonica and the Kentias, pro\-iding they have
been well exposed to light and air beforehand.
NAME OF PLANT.— IT. Wright.~A common tropical
and subtropical annual : Setaria glauca.
NAMES OF FRUIT.— Mrs. Wai7iwright.—1, Beurrfi
Superfln ; 2, Josephine de Malines ; 3, Easter Beurr€.
J. P. — 1 and 3, Marie Louise ; 2, Beurrfi Dumont ; 4,
Comte de Lamy ; 5, General TodJeben ; 6, Mar^ehal de la
Cour; 7, Beurrfi Superfln ; 8, Beurrfi Diel. Subscriber.
— Bramley's Seedhng (big one); Cox's Pomona (middle
one) ; deformed fruit (small one). W. S. TilleU — Cox's
Orange Pippin. Jim. — 1, New Bess Pool; 2, Poor
fruit of Cox's Orange Pippin ; 3. Emily Childs ; 4, Rose-
mary Russet ; 6, Emperor Alexander ; 6, Allington
Pippin; 7, Tyler's Kernel; 8, Beurrfi Hardy. W.F.M.
Copeland. — 1, Swan's Egg ; 2, White Dovenn6 ; 3, Pear
Belle Julie ; 4, Apple Chatley's Kernel.-^^ E. S. W. —
Pear Marie Louise. Gosden. — Pears: 1, filarie Louise ;
2, Beurrfi Diel ; 3, Duchesse d'Angoulgme ; 4, Catillac.
Apples; 1, Allington Pippin; 2, Ashmead's Kernel; 3,
Yellow Ingestre ; 4, Sugarloaf; 5, Calville Rouge; 6,
Hall Door ; 7 and 8, Newton Wonder.
OBITUARY.
CHARLES BECKETT.
We regret to record the death of this noted
gardener, which occurred at The Rosary, Boreham.
Wood, Elstree, on the 17th inst. The deceased,
who was in his eighty-ninth year, was for twenty-
five years gardener at Remenham Lodge, Henley-
on-Thames, and at that time was a very successful
exhibitor at the local shows. Subsequently, and
for about a similar period, he was bailiff to the late,
and also to the present. Sir Philip F. Rose, Bart., at
Rayners, Penn, Bucks, a position from which he
retired about eleven years ago. For the past two
years his health had been failing, but the end came
rather suddenly, the deceased having visited his
garden and gathered some Roses a short time
previously. He leaves three sons, all of whom are
well known in horticultural circles, viz., Mr. Edwin
Beckett, V.M.H., head-gardener at A'denham
House, Elstree ; Mr. Charles Beckett, head-
gardener at Chilton, Hungerford ; and Mr. Thomas
Beckett, steward at Havering Park Farm, Romford.
FREDERICK PHIPPEN.
His many friends will regret to hear of the death
of Mr. Frederick Phippen, which occurred on the
20th inst., from pneumonia, after a week's illness.
Mr. Phippen, who was thirty-one years of age,
had for many years represented Messrs. Jarman
and Co. at the principal shows in the coimtry.
His bright, genial disposition attracted a large
circle of friends. The ftmeral took place at
Chard on Saturday, the 24th inst.
538
THE GARDEN.
[October 31, 1914.
SOCI ETI ES.
ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.
An ejchibition of some variety and excellence was brought
together on the 20th inst., the show being in the nature
of a surprise. Its outstanding feature was the remarkable
collections of British-grown fruit, five leading firms
bringing of their best. Of its quality generally the sub-
joined report will afford a good idea, though its high
e.xcellence is demonstrated by the fact that one gold
Hogg medal, three gold medals and two silver Knightian
medals — one for Grapes — were awarded. For the rest
the double table group of winter-flowering Begonias
from Messrs. Veitch. obviously — in view of the impending
sale — the last of these fromthls eminent Arm, showed
these plants to perfection. Michaelmas Daisies from
Lewisham have never been more flnelv or artistically
displayed, while Carnations and Koses were also good.
Only one or two Orchid groups were staged. The Orchid
committee gave awards to two, and the floral committee
to five, novelties, the fruit committee confij-mingan award
of merit, after the usual tests of cooking and cropping,
to a culinary Apple certificated in February last.
Orchid CoMitiTTEE.
Present: J. Gurney Fowler, Esq. (chairman), Sir
Harry J. Veitch, and Messrs. James O'Brien, W. Bolton,
A. Dye, Gurney Wilson, E. H. Davidson, W. P.
Bound, H. Q. Alexander. J. E. Shill, C. H. Curtis, W. H.
Hatcher, J. Charlesworth, J. Cypher, W. Cobb. F. J.
Hanbury, R. A. Rolfe, C. J. Lucas, A. McBean, T.
Armstrong, S. W. Flory, G. Hunter and Stuart H. Low.
Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Hayward's Heath,
Sussex, contributed a nice group, which comprised excel-
lent varieties of Odontoglossum crispum, Cattleya labiata
alba var. Penelope, Dendrobium formosura giganteum
-ne's Scarlet (very striking). Golden Noble
Royal Jubilee, Sandringham, Crawley Beauty Brownlee's
Russet, Blenheim Orange, Beauty of Stoke, Stirling Castle
Ihe Queen, Beauty of Kent, Newton Wonder and Cox's
Orange Pippin. The finer dishes of Pears were Dovenni
du Cornice. Conference, General Todlcben Bcnrr«
Alexandre Lucas and Beurr« Clairgeau, the whole making
a highly attractive exhibit. Gold medal.
The other gold medal collection came from Mr. E. C
Notcutt, Woodbridge, who also arranged a somewhat
extensive table of fruits. These latter were generally of
large size ; and while for the most part more flnelv
coloured than was the case in some of the other collec-
tions, there was lacking that degree of finish so conspicuous
elsewhere. There were, however, many handsome dishe=
Of Pears, perhaps the more striking were Doyenr,« du
Cornice, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Duchesse d'AiigoulSme
Beurre Bosc, Pitmaston Duchess. Beun6 Superfln and
Winter Nelis ; of Apples, Charles Ross, Royal Jubilee
Worcester Pearmain, Chelmsford Wonder '
Ros» Rev. \\ \\i!ks, Brownlee's Russet, Bramlcy's
Seedling, Lanes Prince Albert (a very nice dish), Cellini
Pippin and Allington Pippin. Gold Hogg medal
Messrs. Cannell and Sons, Eynsford. Kent, arranged a
particularly attractive and highly meritorious collection
of 14b varieties of Apples and Pears, the whole re-
markable for size, finish and high cultural excellence.
Indeed, not a few of the examples were of outstanding
merit and were greatly admired. Of Apples we noted
Bietighcimer Red, Baron Wolselcv, Blue Pearmain
(carrying a Grape-like bloom on Its fruits, which was
distinctly ornamental), Norfolk Beauty (perhaps the
finest of the yellow-skinned varieties), .innic Elizabeth
Gascoj-ne s Seedling, Wellington (a superb lot) and Beauty
of Kent. In addition, the best known sorts— Bramlcy's
beedling. Peasgood's Nonsuch, Cox's Orange Pippin,
Ribston and others— were very flne. The best dishes of
Pears were those of Conference, Dovenr« du Comicc
Beurre Bosc, Duchesse d'AngoulSme, Princess Pit-
maston Duchess, Late Orange and Beurr^ Diel ' Gold
medal.
Messrs. J. Cheal and Sons, Crawley, set up a very
attractive collection of 125 dishes of Apples and Pears
and here, too, high cultural merit, colour and good
and Champion were also shown
Tho Misses Hopkins, Shepperton-on-Thames, had a small
group of alpines. such as Primulas, Polygonum vaccini-
folium, Convoivnlus Cneorum, Plumbago Larpenta3
and others. Viola Bowles' Black and other miniature
sorts were also shown.
The Misses Price and Fyfe, East Grinstead, displayed
Carnations and early and other Chrysanthemums. Xlie
Carnations were in some variety.
I\Ir. W. Wells, jun., Merstham, had a grouping of
Miehaelmas Daisies and Phloxes. Aster cordifolius
elegans and Phlox Iris were both good.
Mr. Clarence Elliott, Stevenage, showed flowers of
Gentiana acaulis. boxes of Crocus speciosus, Potcntilia
willmottiana, Thymus camosus, Achillea tomontosa
and Phlox subulata Vivid, all in good flower and several
quite out of season.
Messrs. H. J. Jones. Limited, Lewisham. had a superbly
arranged table of Micliaelmas Daisies and Chrysanthe-
mums, the vases and stands being handsome in the
extreme. Of the former, Magnet, Henry Adams and
Climax, in shades of light and dark blue, represented
the best of the tallest of these at this season. Siriu:
T . X. ■ . .L _L ■ -.T ■ - Bismarck,
Lane s Prince Albert, Newton Wonder. Allington Pinnin
(rose). Sirs. Heneage (blue) and Mrs. J K Holmes (pink) I Frogmore Prolific, and Hollandburv,"w'hich'warvcr;'fln''erv
were also good. Of the large-flowered Chrysanthemums ..,,i™,nH ""i,- . -■"lu lus iiry nneij
Bob Pulling (rich yellow), Mile. Elise Dorden, Betty
Spark (pink) and Cranford Yellow were all excellent.
A splendid group, artistically arranged.
Mr. Amos Perry, Enfield, showed hardy Ferns, in
reality a collection of Scolopendriums representative of
the many phases and variations of this remarkatile tribe.
It was perhaps one of the most representative collections
ever staged.
Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Enfield, had some nice
groups of Carnations, of which Enchantress Supreme,
Salmon King, Gorgeous, Mrs. Mackay Edgar (good
shapely pink). Princess Dagmar (crimson) and Satin Robe
were some of the more important.
Messrs. Allwood Brothers, Hayward's Heath, showed
Carnations very finely, such as Champion, Princess Dagmar,
Wivelsfleld White. May Day and Salmon Enchantress
being very fine.
A big stand of Dahlias, representative of all sections of
the flower, was shown by Mr. W. Treseder, Cardiff.
Roses from Messrs. B. R. Cant, Colchester, included
Comtesse du Cayla, Duchess of Wellington, Gottfried
Keller, Lyon Rose, \Vhite Maman Cochet, Irish Elegance,
Snow Queen, Augustus Hartman, Lady Hillingdon and
Rayon d'Or. A superb gathering of these popular flowers.
Excellent Carnations were arranged by Mr. C. Engel-
mann. White Enchantress, Enchantress Supreme, Scarlet
Carola, White Wonder and Lady Northcliffe all being good.
Triumph and Elektra were also noted.
Messrs. H. B. .May and Sons, Edmonton, displayed
Begonias, Bouvardias, Crotons, Ferns, Statice and
Cyclamen. A grand specimen of Drynaria quercifolia
was in the centre of a flne group.
Fruit and Vegetable Committee.
Present : J. Cheal, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs, W. Bates,
J. W. Willard. W. Pope, H. Markham, Owen Thomas,
H. J. Wright, A. Bullock, Thomas Coomber, G. Wythes,
E. A. Bunyard, J. Harrison, G. G. A. Nix, F. G. Treseder
and A. R. Allan.
There were several magnificent collections of fruit
staged, and the fact that one gold Hogg medal and
three gold medals were awarded proclaimed their excellence.
Indeed, it is not too much to say that finer produce has
only rarely, if ever, been staged.
'The most extensive collection was that from Messrs.
George Bunyard and Co., Maidstone, this occupying
a table running the entire length of the hall on its nortiiern
side. Some 200 varieties of Apples and Pe^ars were staged
by this well-known firm, the fruits being generally of high
excellence, though we incline to the view that Messrs.
Bunyard have staged examples which exhibited better
finish and finer colour. Some of the Pears were of huge
iize : one fruit of Pear Marie Benoist was said to weigh 2Uh.
Of this variety a dozen giant fruits were arranged. Other
flne varieties included Beurr6 Diel. Belle 'de Arbres,
Uvedale's St. Germain, Beurr6 Baltet P6re — a basket
contained a dozen giants of high merit — Catillac, Directenr
Hardy and Durondeau. Of Apples of more than ordinary
merit we selected Egremont Russet, Mclndoe's Russet,
Norfolk Beauty (of pale yellow colour). Emperor Alexander,
MSre du M6nage (very large). Cox's Orange Pippin, Charles
coloured.
Messrs. J. Carter and Co., Eaynes Park, S.W., received a
silver Banksian medal for a collection of pot-grown
Capsicums, some of which were of a highly ornamental
character. Perhaps the more striking was Elephant's
Trunk, of rich red coloiu', the huge pendent fruits being
very attractive. Others were Golden Dawn. Celestial
(red, erect fruits). Long Yellow (with tapering yellow
fruits) and Sweet Spanish (whose big. drooping fruits are
coloured a glossy reddish scarlet).
Charles Bayer, Esq.. Tewkesbury Lodge, Forest Hill,
received a silver Knightian medal for a collection of Grapes!
the varieties including Gros Colmar. Muscat of Alexandria,'
Appley Towers, Black Alicante and Chassclas Napoleon.'
several bunches of each being staged.
Messrs. Laxton Brothers, Bedford, were also the recipients
of a silver Knightian medal for a capital collection of
Apples displayed in a most artistic manner. The collec-
tion was less extensive than some, yet it served by
branched stands and in other ways to demonstrate
the ornamental as well as the utilitarian value of these
fmits, the whole of which were in the highest perfection.
Varieties, too, were numerous and good, though we con-
sidered such as Newton Wonder, Lane's Prince .Albert
Cox's Orange Pippin, Cliarles Ross, Rival, Bramlcy's
Seedling and Ribston Pippin of outstanding merit and
beauty.
NATIONAL CHRYSANTHEMUM SOCIETY.
A MEETING of the floral committee was held in the Essex
Hall, Essex Street, Strand, on Monday, the lOth inst.,
when a few varieties only were staged for awards. Those
that received recognition from the committee were as
follow :
Doroihii. — A medium-sized yellow reflexed Japanese
variety with broad florets and good substance. The
colour is very rich. Should prove a good market variety.
Shown by Jlr. Norman Davis. Framfleld, Sussex. First-
class certificate.
El/rida. — A large and beautifully shaped single, the
broad florets overlapping each other well. The colour Is a
sort of reddish bronzy yellow, with old gold shading
towards the tips of the petals. Shown by Messrs.
Cragg, Harrison and Cragg, Heston. First-class
certificate.
James Stredwick. — A very large reflexed Japanese,
the blooms showing a wonderful depth. The colour is
a pleasing deep shade of old rose with a suspicion of
crimson in the centre. Shown by Messrs. J. Stredwick
and Sons, St. Leonards. First-class certiflcate.
Earl Roberts. — A large Japanese variety with broad,
reflexed petals. The colour of these is briglit rich crimson
with gold reverse. Shown by Mr. G. Mileham, Evelyn
House Gardens, Leatherhead. Award for colour.
A splendid collection of well-flnlshed Grapes was shown
by Mr. E. C. Wiekens, gardener to C. liayer, Esq., Tewkes-
bury Lodge, Forest Hill. These comprised fine hunches
of Chasselas Napoleon, Appley Towers, Black .\licante,
Muscat of Alexandria and Gros Colmar. A silver-gilt
medal was awarded this excellent exhibit.
.4* <@^y-.
c%^sr^^-
GARDEN.
No. 2242.— Vol. LXXVIII.
November 7, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Help for Our Wounded Soldiers. — In these
days, when it is the duty of every British citizen
to make some sacrifice on behalf of the Empire,
many calls are made upon the purses of those
who are unable to take an active part in the
■conflict. One of the most deserving of these
calls is now made by the Ambulance Department
of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem in England.
A special committee of ladies of the Order has
been formed, and they are now appealing for
shilling subscriptions to enable them to
carry on their work of relief. Already
150 hospitals and convalescent homes
have been established, 209 doctors and
nurses have been sent to the Front,
numerous bales of medical stores and
supplies have been sent to the sick and
wounded, and a number of motor
ambulances are now being despatched
to the Front. We appeal to our readers
to subscribe as liberally as they can to
the funds, and so help to relieve the
sufferings of our soldiers who have been
wounded while fighting for them. All
subscriptions should be sent to the
secretary, Ambulance Department,
Marconi House, Strand, London, W.C.
Ladies willing to collect shillings should
send in their names to that address.
A Good Shrub for Sandy Soil.— The
illustration on this page represents a
flowering spray of Cistus Loretii, one of
the most beautiful of all the Rock
Roses and a shrub that will thrive in
sandy soil. This Cistus is of hybrid
origin, its parents being C. ladaniferus
maculatus and C. monspeliensis. It
grows very quicklv, and eventually
forms a graceful, spreading bush 5 feet
or more high. Its flowers, which are
produced with great freedom towards
the end of the summer, are pure white,
with a deep crimson maroon blotch at
the base of each petal. Although
individual flowers last only one day, a
large number open each morning, and
so maintain the display. In nurseries
■G. Loretii is often known as C. cyprius.
be planted at any time during November or early
December, or during February and the first week
or two of March.
Aquilegias in Pots. — The hybrid Columbines
are among the most ornamental and decorative
plants for beds and borders, but seldom does one
see them used for decorating the greenhouse in
the spring. The largest crowns should be care-
fully lifted now and transferred to pots of a suitable
growth re-commences in the spring they should
be brought into a warm house to flower. Their
value as cut flowers needs no mentioning, and in
pots, mixed with light foliage plants, they will
be found equally as serviceable.
Sir David Prain's Son Killed in Action. — It
was with deep regret that wc noted the name of
Lieutenant T. Prain of the Leicestershire Regi-
ment among the list of officers killed in action
that was published on October 30. Lieutenant
A FLOWERING SHOOT OF CISTUS LORETII, A GOOD
FOR SANDY SOIL.
It may
Prain was, we understand, the only child of
Lieutenant-Colonel Sir David Prain, I. M.S.,
C.M.G., F.R.S., &c.. Director of the Royal Botanic
Gardens, Kew, and we feel sure that the sym-
pathies of all our readers, and Kewites in
particular, wlil be extended to Sir David and
Lady Prain in their great bereavement.
Wisley, and American Gooseberry Mildew. —
Professor Keeble, Director of the Royal Horti-
cultural Society's Gardens at Wisley, sends us a
form of enquiry which is being sent out from there
with a view to obtaining more definite particulars
about American Gooseberry mildew. Twelve
simple questions are asked on the form, answers
to which are to be filled in and the form returned
to the Director at Wisley. Professor Keeble
will be glad if all growers who fail to receive one
of these forms will communicate with him at the
Royal Horticultural Society's Gardens, Wisley,
Ripley, Surrey.
Seedlings of the Willow. — At a recent
meeting of the scientific committee of
the Royal Horticultural Society, Mr.
Fraser remarked that it had been re-
ported that Willow seed rarely or never
germinates, but he produced consider-
able evidence in the form of seedlings
to show the contrary was the case. A
constant supply of moisture and the
absence of competition with tall her-
baceous plants are necessary to the
success of the young Willow seedlings,
but given these conditions the seed ger-
minates readily when fresh. He had
foimd seedlings of Salix repens (which
will germinate within forty-eight hours
of sowing), S. alba, S. viminalis, S.
Lapponum, S. Caprea, S. cinerea, S.
aurita, S. nigricans, S. phylicifolia, S
Arbuscula and S. lanata. He showed
beautifully dried specimens of all but
the last of these.
Mr. Leonard Sutton, who has been
selected for the coming year as Mayor
of the Borough of Reading, is the
youngest son of the late Mr. Martin Hope
Sutton and the second senior partner of
the firm of Sutton and Sons, Reading.
He was bom in t863 and was educated
at Wellington College and the Royal
Agricultural College, Cirencester. Mr.
Sutton is a Fellow of the Linnean
Society, and has been closely connected
with agricultural education since leaving
Cirencester. He has been for some
years chairman of the Reading
Education Committee, and is also a
member of the Council of the Reading University
College, being chairman of its Advisory Farm
Committee, and was appointed by the college
as a member of the deputation to visit agricultural
colleges in the United States and Canada in igro.
Mr. Sutton is a member of the Berkshire County
Association. He has two sons serving as second
lieutenants with His Majesty's Forces in the
Berkshire Yeonianr\- and the Royal Sussex
Regiment (7th Battalion).
SHRUB
540
THE GARDEN.
[November 7, 1914
CORRESPONDENCE.
(The Editor^ is^not responsible for the opinions
expressed bv correspondents.)
Gardeners and the Army. — Having received
numerous enquiries as to the procedure gardeners
have to take with their State Insurance cards on
their enlistment in His Majesty's Forces during
the war, I have appended a few instructions
for the benefit of your readers who may wish to
know how to proceed on enlistment. They
should procure their insurance cards from their
employers, stamped to the date of leaving their
cmplovTnent only, and send them to their respec-
tive societies. B5' doing this they will be entitled,
on discharge to civilian life, to full benefits under
the Act. Gardeners while serving in the Navy
or Army will be known as B Class, and pay a
contribution of 3d. per week, of which lid. will
Double-Flowered Peach Fruiting. — In answer
to Mr. Turner's question, my flowering Peach
is the pink one. — G. E. Jeans.
Moss on Tennis Court. — Will anyone advise
how to destroy muss cm a sand court and prevent
its recurrence ? Weed-killer has been tried without
success. — G. J.
Buddleia Colvillei Flowering in Autumn.—
In compliance with your request for information
as to Buddleia Colvillei flowering now, there is
a fine plant of it in this neighbourhood in flower,
the first time it has given second b'-ooms. The
late Mr. W. E. Gumb'.eton had it for a great many
years, but it hardly ever gave a bloom at any
season, for its very vigorous growth was badly
ripened and never pruned in any way, to which
I attribute its barren condition. It has never
suffered from frost in the garden I refer to, and
bloomed a short time after it was planted. —
(Captain) J. H. PoE, D.L., Riverston, Nenagh.
m
- *> '- ...
' l^
•
^^m
^Mm'
»''^
^t^^<^K^^^N«LiJ^'»^^»^
Ms
if '
rl
A FINE SPECIMEN OF THE ME.XICAN ORANGE (CHOISYA TERNATA) AT THE CEDARS,
HALSTEAD, ESSEX.
be deducted from their pay. They still remain
members of their societies, and on their return
to civil employment their cards will again be
stamped with yd. stamps. — A. C. Hill, Secretary
of the United Horticultural Benefit and Provident
Society.
Late Sowing o{ Hardy Annuals. — Owing to
the extreme dryniess of the weather in June this
year, I kept back seedlings of Ten-week Stocks
in pots which were not sown until May, and did
not plant them until July, when we had some
showers. These plants began to bloom in August
and have gone on till now, growing more vigorously
and flowering far better than I ever saw them
earlier in the summer. So many gardens look
bare and shabby in August that I wonder more
is not done with late-sown annuals to brighten
up patches of ground in the borders where early
seedlings have gone out of flower. — Ethel Case,
Bishop's Waltham.
Quince Jelly. — With the heavy crop of Quinces
this year, a pleasant way of utilising them is to
convert them into jelly, which is quite a simple
process. Peel, core and slice the fruit into small
pieces. Boil for two and a-half hours in water
sufficient to float the fruit. Strain the liquid
through a jelly bag, and to every pint of liquid
add a pound of sugar (good quality lump). Boil
again until the whole is a thick jelly. Place in
small pots, cover the jelly with a piece of white
paper soaked in brandy as a means of preventing
mould growing on the jelly, and securely fasten
down with air-tight paper. — E. Molyneu.x.
Rose Excelsa. — I am pleased to see, in the
issue for October 24, page 515, that Mr, M. H..
Walsh has been honoured so highly for raising this
wichuraiana Rose. 1 am sure it will take the
place of Crimson Rambler, not because it is
superior in colour to that old favourite, but
because it is so immune from mildew, which
is the weakness of Crimson Rambler. Excelsa is
a grand Rose in every way. — E. M. [We think that,
apart from its freedom from mildew, Excelsa is
superior to Crimson Rambler, as the flowers do
not turn magenta blue with age. — Ed.]
A Good Specimen of the Mexican Orange. —
The accompanying illustration of the .Mexican
Orange, Choisya temata, is from a photograph
kindly sent us by Miss Philbrick, The Cedars,
Halstead, Essex, the president of the National
Sweet Pea Society for 1915. This is one of the
most beautiful of our flowering shrubs, its umbels
of fragrant white blossoms opening usually in
May, to be followed in some years by a less
boimtiful display in September or October. It
needs a situatiem screened from north or east
winds and soil that is well drained, and in very
severe weather should have an old mat or two
fixed round it. In %vriting. Miss Philbrick states
that the shrub illustrated is growing beside the
front door of her residence, and that it is 7 feet
high and about five feet in diameter. It has
been planted about six years.
Government Trading in Ireland. — About a
year ago evidence was placed before the Council
of the Horticultural Trades Association of Great
Britain and Ireland that the Irish Board of Agri-
culture was, through its county committees,
purchasing, at the lowest wholesale rates they
could obtain, all sorts of nursery stock. This
was being divided up and passed on to large and
small land owners and holders. It was con-
sidered an interference with the legitimate trade
of Irish and other nurserjiuen, and a remonstrance
was sent to the proper quarter. A reply was
received to the effect that the intention of the
procedure was to encourage small farmers and
landowners to go in for fruit culture. To this,
strictly carried out, there could possibly be no
great objection. Again, however, in 191 4 the
old unfair game is being played. Ntmierous
county committees of agriculture are sending
round for estimates for not only fruit trees, but
forest trees — Scotch Pine, Austrian Pine, Elm,
Larch, Spruce Fir, Ash and Birch — in various
sizes ; also plants for cover, evergreen and
flowering shrubs and Roses. Surely these are
not all required to encourage the small fanner
and landowner to go in for fruit culture ! One
correspondent informs me that " Not only cottagers,
but noblemen can get supplies through their coimty
committees," and that " the practice is general
throughout nearly the whole of Ireland." I
think the case wants to be stated in other than a
private trade journal. Therefore I take the liberty
of sending this note for publication in the columns
of The Garden. Publicity is often the first
step towards reform. — W. Cuthbertsom, President,
Horticultural Trades Association.
Propagating Perpetual-Flowering Carnations.
It is true that, as pointed out by -Mr. Brotherston
(see page 517), a pronounced diversity of opinion
exists as to the most suitable time for propagat-
ing these plants. For a considerable number
of years, from the time the variety Miss
Joliffe was in its prime onwards, I aimed at
getting a good batch of cuttings rooted in autumn,
and, provided these were of the right stamp, all
was well. I cannot, however, agree that at that
season they root with "more facility" than
at other times. The correct type of cutting
will root well at almost any time, but I have
never yet seen the finest cutting available in
January capable of equalling, much less over-
taking, one of equal quality rooted in September
November 7, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
541
or October. The fact is, it cannot be done. Some
plants may be " forced," but a Carnation only
at its peril. Tlie plant rooted and potted in
October is possessed of a root economy far in
advance of that rooted in January, and will
have made two or three good, breaks. But if
these are useful in their way, the January and
February rooted stock is invaluable, since it is
from such that the grower obtains his high-class
midwinter flowers and top prices. Hence both
seasons have their value, and the gardener, com-
mercial or private, who requires a long succession
of high-class flowers will be well advised to embrace
both. The " heel " cutting I gave up some years
ago in favour of the joint-made one, the latter
making much the better plant. As a rooting
medium, there is nothing to equal well-washed
sand, and in a 2-inch-deep bed of it there should
be few losses if the cuttings are of the right sort.
The amateur who has no frame should procure
a box and cover it with a sheet of glass. A box
18 inches by r2 inches by g inches will take quite
a number of pots, and those of 5 inches diameter
will accommodate ten or a dozen cuttings easily.
Use well-drained pots, with a little soil or Cocoanut
fibre above and the rest pure sand, and one has
the best means available for the successful propa-
gation of these plants. — E. H. Jenkins.
Mr. R. P. Brotherston, in his article
on Perpetual-flowering Carnations on page 517
of The Garden for October 24, raises an
interesting point about the proper time to take
the cuttings, and also the sort of plants which
are used for stock purposes. As regards
the question of propagation in the autumn or
spring, I am decidedly in favour of the former,
as I have proved that these make the best plants.
Some varieties make roots much quicker and
surer than others, ' and when rooted are much
faster growing. These, I think, are the ones
that can be propagated in January and onwards,
and will make as fine plants by the autumn as
those struck earlier. I have tried several different
rooting mediums, and the one I have had the
fewest failures with is two parts brown sand, one
part finely sifted loam and one part leaf-soil. There
is thus a preponderance of sand, and the leaf-
soil and loam help to bind it together and provide
a little nourishment throughout the winter months.
We place the cuttings singly in 2-inch pots, make
up a mild hot-bed, and plunge the pots in
Cocoanut fibre refuse. The cuttings are well
watered in, and in from ten to fourteen days
some of them are ready to come out of the fibre.
They are wintered on a shelf in a cool green-
house, and as soon as growth commences in the
New Year they are pinched and potted on
into 3j-inch pots, then into 5-inch, and finally
into 7-inch. The first pinching produces four
or five shoots, and is much better, as Mr. Brother-
ston suggests, deferred until January. As regards
the type of plant for stock purposes, I have found
the following a good way : About April take a
few plants of each variety, and either plant them
out on a north border or stand them out in the
pots. These plants will continue flowering all the
summer, and if kept cut will produce an abundant
crop of clean, healthy cuttings by the autumn.
These can be taken off and struck as I have
suggested. A north border is not absolutely
necessary, but in a summer like the past would be
preferable. I might say here that we usually
stand about half our plants outside during the
summer, and those left in are again potted on
into 8-inch pots in March, and continue to give
abundant supplies of bloom all through the summer
months. I once asked a gardener friend who
grew these plants well when he struck his cuttings.
His reply was : " All the year round." I thought
that opened up a still wider field. — R. W.
Thatcher, Carlton Park Gardens, Market
Harbornugh.
IN A HAMPSHIRE GARDEN.
NOTES ON THE NEWER DECORA
TIVE ROSES.
LOOKING back over the season of I9r4,
one can but feel that it has been a
wonderful Rose season — to all but the
exhibitor, to whom it was probably
■^ disappointing, disappointing, though,
chiefly by reason of the fact that the
Roses did not come at the right time. Here in
Hampshire the Roses were too early for the shows,
and the first blooms were all over before Jime was
out ; in fact, mine were at their best between
Jime r5 and June 22 ; but leaving the exhibition
point of view out of the question, it has un-
doubtedly been an exceptional season, suffering at
times from a lack of rain, but for general quality and
quantity of flowers imsurpassed in my recollection.
Aphides troubled us but little, though they were
never allowed to get a hold. Abol, which I always
use, was applied early ; but I only used half the
quantity that was required last year. Mildew,
generally rather troublesome, was tackled with
Seride, which is quite good for the purpose, and only
quite recently has the disease been at all prevalent.
Black spot has not been so apparent as in previous
years. Formaldehyde was used as recommended bj.
Dr. Waddell, and while I cannot say it is a cure,
the disease has been far less destructive, and only
those plants that are particularl}' subject to it, such
as the Pemetianas and their hybrids, have shown
traces. Some, such as Prince de Bulgarie and
Hugh Dickson, that were badly infected last
year, have this year practically escaped. I have
been quite free from any other pest.
Where all Roses have been so good it is difficult
to pick out the best, but the following have, I
think, stood out as being very fine. We are
gradually getting some good yellows, and the
season has suited this colour, being, on the whole,
while sunny, not too much so.
Melody has been particularly beautiful here.
I have about fifteen plants of it, ten in one bed,
so that my experience is not the result of the
behaviour of one or two plants. It is very free-
flowering, of good colour, though not very large even
when fully out, and makes a good button-hole
flower in the young stage. It is deliciously scented,
a good grower of medium rather than vigorous
growth, and is more nearly allied to a Tea than to
a Hybrid Tea. It is one of the best of Roses for
table decoration, lasts well in water, and its
foliage forms a fine contrast to the pale yellow
(with a deeper centre) of its flowers. It came
through the winter all right, and is a great acquisi-
tion to garden and decorative Roses. It has
made plenty of good growth, and is altogether
a better Rose than I was inclined to give it credit for
last year. Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Sons of New-
townards are the raisers, and when better known
it should become very popular. To anyone who
is desirous of planting a bed of a good yellow
Rose, I can confidently recommend him or her to
try Melody.
Mme. C. Lutaud, raised by M. Pernet-Ducher
and sent out in igiz, is another very fuie flower
of rather more substance and carrying its flowers
on longer footstalks perhaps than Melody. It
could be described as a pointed form of Marquise
de Sinety. It is a fine grower, with curiously
serrated foliage of a good bronze shade, and has
been very fine with me this autumn. It is a
Hybrid Tea, but not of the Soleil d'Or race, and
so far has not suffered at all from black spot,
that dark blot on the escutcheon of all the Per-
netiana Roses. It is a Rose to make a note of,
and should certainly be tried by all who have not
got it. A good dark chrome yellow, with the
outside petals sometimes stained rosy scarlet
and carmine, it lasts well when out, and does not
fade so quickly as most yellows.
Mrs. Ambrose Ricardo. — Sent out this year by
Messrs. S. McGrcdy and Son of Portadown,
Ireland. Of all the new Roses that I have tried
this year — and I have had a good many not yet
in commerce — I am inclined to say this is the
finest introduction. It is certainly the largest
yellow I know, and very nearly the largest Rose ;
exquisitely scented, of fine form, right up to the
highest exhibition standard, and at the same
time a good decorative plant. The colour is a
good shade of yellow, with a deep, almost buff,
centre of the shape of Mrs. Amy Hammond.
It is a good grower, of good habit that is branching
and not too vigorous, and free-flowering. The
raisers were, unfortunately, unable to exhibit
any of their Roses for the gold medal this year,
and so I am afraid Mrs. Ambrose Ricardo will miss
that distinction ; but few Roses deserve it better.
It has been the surprise of the year to me, and
although I liked it when it was exhibited in 1913,
it was not then shown in character. It is a very
much better Rose than the blooms exhibited
would have led one to expect, and I am inclined to
think it is the best Rose these raisers have yet
given us. It keeps its colour well, and lasts a
long time both cut and on the plant. The trade
as well as the amateur should make a note
of this Rose, and get it if they have not already
done so.
The foregoing three yellows are all Hybrid Teas.
The best yellow Tea is undoubtedly (from a bedding
point of view)
Lady Hillingdon. This Rose improves every
year with me, and a small bed of fifteen plants
has never been without flowers since June,
and even now in October has been as full
of flower as at any time during the whole season.
There is no other yellow quite so dense in colour.
It is really a deep apricot. The scent is very
sweet and fruity in character. The foliage and
habit of the plant are good. Its only fault is that
the footstalks are too thin and the flower generally
hangs its head ; but there is no denying its beauty,
and the glow of colour is intense. With foHage of
Rosa rubrifolia or its own it makes a charming
decoration either for vase or table, and although it
is a Tea it is not so tender as some. The May
frosts this year did not injure it nearly so much
as they did some of its supposed hardier cousins,
the Hybrid Teas, For some reason that I cannot
understand there is a prejudice against this Rose
which I have noted on more than one occasion.
It will make a far more satisfactory and more
permanent bed than Rayon d'Or, which Rose I
overheard a nurseryman who ought to have
known better recommending in preference to it.
Southampton. Herbert E. Molyneux.
[To he continued.)
542
THE GARDEN.
[November 7, 1914.
c
ROSES
AST
IN OCTOBER.
week a gardening friend asked what,
in our opinion, was the greatest im-
provement that had been effected
among Roses during the last twelve
or fifteen years ? For answer we took
hira into the garden and showed him
Roses blooming freely, not the odd one or two
caricatures of Roses that sometimes pass muster
for the Queen of Flowers, but large, well-formed,
fragrant blooms that would not, many of them,
have disgraced a June garden. No doubt the
mild, open weather w^e ha\'e experienced in
Essex has had something to do with the quality
of the flowers ; but, mistake it not, the
greatest progress has, in recent years, been in
the lengthened period of flowering — from June
until well into October or even November.
late in starting to blow, but who retains her deep
blushes until her heart is hardened by the winter
frost. Last year this did not happen until after
Christmas.
Having assorted our October Roses so far,
we iind so many clamouring for the next position
that it is impossible to allocate it to any one.
They must be content to come in the order that
we jotted them down in a much-used, and our
friend suggested much-abused, notebook. Here,
then, in that order, we present them : Mrs. Arthur
Munt, glorious blooms of creamy white ; Mrs.
Aaron Ward, vifhite, with deep yellow base ;
Lady Pirrie, a wonderful shade of apricot pink ;
Hugo Roller, deep cream, edged carmine ; Mrs.
E. J. Holland, a rather peculiar shade of o!d rose,
but exquisite in form ; Sunburst, glorious nankeen
yellow, better than in hot weather ; Mrs. Herbert
Stevens, the dainty, refined lady of all the white
WINTER- FLOWERING
BEGONIAS.
T
BLOOMS OF ROSE JAMES COEY,
A BEAUTIFUL
SUMMER AND
PALE YELLOW
AUTUMN.
HYBRID TEA VARIETY FOR
It may be of interest to briefly record those
varieties which, during the closing days of October,
gave us such pleasure. Place of honour must
be given to Gloire de Dijon. In mid-May, before
the last of the Tulips had departed, this started
to flower, and has not ceased since, nor is it likely
to do so if the weather keeps mild. Exhibitors,
of course, will say the flowers are of poor shape,
but its vigorous habit, quaint buff colour, delicious
Tea fragrance and freedom of flowering will ever
retain for it a deep niche in our affection. Next
must come General Macarthur, a crimson bedder
as fragrant as it is free. Mme. Leon Pain, with
its pink, shaded apricot flowers, is placed third ;
its habit is so good, too, for beds. On a level
with these three we must place the Polyantha
varieties Jessie, crimson scarlet ; Phyllis, bright
pink; Orleans, rose pink; and Katherine Zeimet,
white. And we give place of honour in this
quartet to Jessie, a dainty little lady who is rather
Roses ; White Killamey, a poor Rose in the
summer, but good in the autumn, not really pure
white ; Irish Fireflame and Irish Elegance, a
pair of singles that ought to be in every garden ;
Mrs. J. Laing, a Hybrid Perpetual that always
mildews badly in the autumn, but we must have
it for the fragrance of its pink flowers ; Betty, a
fine garden Rose ; Mrs. Wakefield Christie Miller,
pink, with deep glowing rose reverse ; Mrs. Walter
Easlea, fragrant, crimson scarlet ; Mrs. Edward
Powell, rich crimson ; Gustave Regis, the button-
hole Rose, nankeen yellow buds ; Frances Charteris
Seton, very fragrant and of exquisite shape ;
James Coey, soft yellow, almost the shade of
Marechal Niel (see illustration) ; Pharisaer, rather
tall and free, silvery pink ; Mme. Abel Chatenay,
and Duchess of Wellington, rich yellow. The
last-named does not open too well when the
weather is wet, but, given a few reasonably dry
October days, it is superb.
HE magnificent group of these Begonias
contributed by Messrs. Veitch to the
meeting of the Royal Horticultural
Society on October 20 must have
aroused in many feelings of pride
not unmingled with regret. The reason
for a natural feeling of pride is that the whole of
this splendid section of flowering plants has been
developed from comparatively small beginnings
within the last thirty years or so, and all must
be credited to British horticulturists. For many
years, commencing with the variety John Heal,
Messrs. Veitch were alone in producing new kinds;
but of late Messrs. CUbran of .Altrincham have
come prominently to the fore and given us annually
some really good things.
There is one point of difference between
the productions of the two firms, and that is
that most of Messrs. CUbrau's Begonias have
either double or semi-double flowers, whereas
those raised by Messrs. Veitch, or, rather,
by their enthusiastic grower, Mr. John Heal,
consist for the most part of varieties with
single blossoms. The later novelties from
this last-named source approach much more
nearly the members of the tubarous-rooted
section than did the earlier crosses, in whose
production Begonia socotrana has played a
part. This was especially notable in the case
of the variety Optjma, which attracted more
general attention than any other kind shown
on October 20. This variety is of a good
bold, yet sturdy habit, and the flowers, which
are large and well shaped, are of a pale
yellowish salmon colour. Other new or com-
paratively new varieties of this section,
several of which have been given awards of
merit by the Royal Horticultural Society,
and most, if not all, of which were shown on
tlie above-mentioned date, are .Acquisition,
salmon rose ; Emita, rich orange scarlet, very
bright and fine ; Epirus, rosy pink ; Exquisite,
salmon pink, light centre ; Fascination,
orange salmon ; Her Majesty, salmon yellow ;
Optima, referred to above ; Rosalind, rose ;
and Syros, pale salmon, dark foliage and
late in flowering.
The regret alluded to in the early part
of this article was that we had seen the
last of Messrs. Veitch's wonderful collec-
tions of these charming flowers, which for
years have done so much to brighten up the
Royal Horticultural Society's Hall at a time
when bright -coloured blossoms are none too
plentiful- They are usually referred to as winter-
flowering Begonias, but parhaps late autumn and
early winter would be nearer the mark. Even
before the group of these flowers above alluded
to was exhibited, the announcement was made
that the entire stock would be disposed of by
auction just one week later, which sale has now-
taken place. A perusal of the catalogue serves
to show that there was at Feltham (where these
plants were grown) a considerable number of
these beautiful Begonias, consisting altogether
of about 4,800 plants. The variety Optima
would appear to be as much appreciated by Mr.
Heal as it was by the visitors to the hall, for about
600 plants of this were announced in the catalogue.
It is by no means alone in Begonias that Messrs.
Veitch's retirement will be regretted, for although
f
November 7, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
543
;the fruit tree traditions may still be upheld from
the historic soil of Langley, we shall greatly miss
the charming stove and greenhouse plants, which
■were rarely, if ever, absent from the fortniglitly
meetings ; while <5ne can scarcely realise the loss
to horticulture in general by the dispersal of the
Coorabe Wood collection. With the great sale
of fruit trees at Feltham in November, we see, I
understand, almost the linal act of the passing
•of a great firm, a firm that will be missed by
.every horticulturist in the kingdom.
Though I have departed somewhat from the
heading of this article, a few words may well
be spared Messrs. Clibran's race of these Begonias,
in which double and semi-double
ifiowers predominate. Particularly
striking are some of their newer
kinds, notably Empress, salmon
red ; Matchless, salmon ; Picotee.
orange salmon ; Radiant, brilliant
<;erise crimson ; \'ivid, bright
scarlet ; and Vulcan, rich crim-
son. H. P.
In a lew days after spawniing the bed, if the
heat was not rising, there was placed on the top
about four inches of decayed turf, which was
made wet by watering it with warm water
from a rosed watering-pot. Before putting it on
the bed this soil was well beaten down with the
back of a garden spade. Then for the winter
crops about a foot thick of best hay was placed
over the bed. Hay keeps the bed much warmer
than a straw covering. From beds made like
this I always got fine crops of Mushrooms. The
Mushroom-beds in the winter were very seldom
watered when in full bearing, but towards the
early summer and onwards they were given a
MUSHROOMS ALL
THE YEAR ROUND.
IT ma5', perhaps, be interesting
to other readers if I describe
how I grew Mushrooms all
the year round in a large
stone-built shed which was
very cold. To keep the
frost from getting at Potatoes
stored in the shed, I had to fasten
mats and sacks close inside a large
window in the front wall, and the
Potatoes were covered with a large
thickness of straw and garden
mats. Having the manure from
three or four stable-fed carriage
horses, I placed this on the floor
of a very large open-fronted cart
shed in the stable yard. The
manure was spread out thinh- and
not allowed to get very warm at
any time. In about three or four
weeks' time there Avas thoroughly
mixed with the manure well-
chopped decayed turf, taken off a
meadow, in the proportion of
about one barrowful of turf to
about three barrowfuls of the
manure.
When this was well mixed
together, it was taken into the
shed and placed on a good thick
foundation made with the straw-
shaken out from the manure. The bed would be
about four feet wide and about two and a-half feet
deep. The manure when spread out on the bed
was well trodden down. The bed never became
hot, so that in the course of a few days it was
planted with the best spawn, broken in lumps as
large as ducks' eggs, these being placed about
six inches apart. AU the spawn was planted
about three inches deep with a garden trowel,
and the manure taken out of the holes for
the spawn was then replaced and rammed
down firmly. The temperature of the bed was
tested by means of a few^ pieces of Bean sticks
pushed well into the bed, and the heat tested by
the hand.
THE LAMB'S-EAR PLANT.
A PL.\NT of unusual aspect, and one that is not
frequently met with, is the so-called Lamb's-ear
Plant, known to botanists under the name of
Stachys lauata. Its unique appearance is due to
the thick, woolly foliage and stems, which are
of a silvery white hue, and provide a welcome
change during the suranier months from the
glaring colours of the surrounding flowers. It
is a plant that will thrive with a modicum of
soil, and even that need be only of the pofjrest
character. For this_ reason it is admirably adapted
for planting in the lower courses of a dry wall,
as shown in the accompanying
Illustration, where it is quite at
home and has formed an attractive
and interesting specimen.
RESTORING VINES
TO HEALTH.
B
THE LAivIB's-EAR PLANT (STACHYS LANATA) GROWIN
LOWER COURSES OF A DRY WALL.
fair soaking of warm water in which was put a
small quantit}- of table salt.
At our local vegetable and flower show held here
in July, as I happened to have a Mushroom-bed
in full bearing, I entered a class for twelve
dishes of vegetables, and also one for nine dishes.
In each collection I had a fine plate of two entire
c'umps of nice pink Mushrooms. Each clump was
lifted from its bed and placed upside down on the
large dinner plates, which the Mushrooms nearly
covered. I was fortunate in getting first for the
twelve dishes, also for the nine dishes. I generally
had more Mushrooms than my employer wanted for
his family, so the surplus was given to his friends.
Newport, Mon. R. Giddings.
EFORE decidhig on the
course to take with
the object of restoring
sickly Vines to good
health, it is -well, first,
to find out, if possible,
what has been the cause of failure,
because if it is the result, say, of
an attack of red spider, thrip,
mealy bug or any other pest in-
jurious to the Vine, it is ob^-iously
useless to incur the expense and
labour of replanting in new soil
before these pests are destroyed. It
may be that none of the above
causes has operated to bring about
the ill-health of the Vines, but rather
that it has been caused by the ex-
hausted condition of the soil, defec-
tive drainage, or that the main
roots are deeply embedded in un-
congenial subsoil. This can only
be asc-ertained by examining the
roots and the condition of the bor-
der, which we will now proceed to
do, say, at the end of October or at
any time during the winter, but the
earlier the better after the time
mentioned. Many Vines are planted
in borders which are partly outside
and partly inside, others in outdoor
borders only, and others, again, in
inside borders only. The work
of renewing the borders is much
the same in each case. Tak'ng
the double border as an examp'e
and treating the inside of it first,
the first thing to do is to clear the vinery of all
plants or any other portable article likely to
impede the progress of the work, and then cut a
trench i8 inches wide the whole length of the
border and as deep as the bottom of the border,
say, 2J feet. The side of the trench next to the
Vines must be at least 8 feet distant from them.
The whole of the soil in the trench, down to the
drainage at the bottom, should be wheeled away.
.\11 roots that are come in contact with in forming
this trench should be cut through with a knife.
Having cleared the trench of all the soil, the next
thing to do is to purchase a well-made five-tined
fork, and gradually and carefully to work away
the soil from the border into the trench until we
IN THE
544
THE GARDEN.
[November 7, 1914,
reach within 2J feet or 3 feet of the stems of the
Vines. If it is found — as it often is — that the
ioil thrown back from the border into the trench
more than fills it, and that it hampers the workman
at his work, have it wheeled away, as ultimately
all this shifted soil will have to be cleared away.
Assuming now that the whole of the soil has been
cleared away from the roots of the \'incs to within
3 feet of their stems, the next thing to do is to
collect the liberated roots carefully together and
turn them back on to the top of the border at the
base of the Vines, placing a wet mat over them
and a fairly heavy board oa the top of that to
keep them in position until wanted
for replanting.
The Bottom of the Border.—
Having cleared the whole of the soil
away from the part excavated, an
opportunity will be given to exa-
mine the drainage. If the border
is foimd to rest on a subsoil of
gravel or any other material suffi-
ciently porous to admit of the free
passage of water, no better bottom
is needed ; but should it be rest-
ing on clay or some other sub-
stance equally impervious to the
passage of water, the bottom must
be concreted and drainage secured
by the insertion of rows of 3-inch
drain-pipes at distances apart of
4 feet, having sufficient fall and an
effective outlet, filling in between
the pipes (and deep enough to cover
them) with broken bricks, stones
and potsherds. Should it be
fomid in cleariug away the soil
from the border that some of the
Vine roots have penetrated into
the subsoil, rather than try to
trace them to their source and lift
them for replanting it will be
better to cut them off, as such
roots are of practically no value
to the Vine. We have now
finished what may be termed the
pulling down or destructive part
of the work of renovating old
Vines, and will now proceed to
the more congenial part of build-
ing up new material which is
to give new life and greater
fertility to the Vines.
The Soil. — It is considered by
some gardeners to be an advan-
tage to cut and stack the turf
before it is wanted for use. My
experience of making Vine borders
goes to show that there is no
texture, with a fair depth of loam underneath,
and resting on sandstone, limestone, or even
gravel. The grass must first be cut off as close
as possible, and the turf may be cut into any
lengths and widths desirable, but they must
not be cut of greater depth than 5 inches. It is
only at this depth that masses of grass roots, or
fibres, are found in the turves, and which add
so much value to Vine soil. The turf should be
chopped up with a sharp spade into pieces the
size of the fourth of a brick. To each cartload
of such turf add two barrow-loads of old broken
of course, run the whole length of the border).
This will give a space of close on 3 feet to be filled
with new soil for the Vine roots to root into,
and still leave space behind the turf wall to be filed
up with new soil for the further encouragement
of the Vine's growth in two years' time. In
commencing to fill the space between the turf
wall and the roots of the Vines with the new soil,
the largest and coarsest of the lumps of turves
should be selected and placed at the bottom on
the drainage to the depth of 5 inches, ramming
them down firmly-. Before proceeding to add
advantage attending this practice.
The first thing to do before preparing the new soil is , and adding the small stuft' and the dust which
to find out about how much will be required to fill
up the new border. The planter must bear in
mind that little more than half the space of the
border which has been cleared of soil will be
available for filling up for the present replanting
of the Vines, the other portion being reserved for
another addition of fresh soil to the roots in two
years' time. As the success of the Vines for so
many years will depend on the quantity of the
soil in which their roots are planted, no expense
or trouble should be spared in obtaining the right
sort. The best is that obtained from an old
meadow pasture, of heavy rather than a light
bricks, reducing them to the size of a hen's egg, [any more soil to the new border, we must now
examine the roots placed under
the mat as directed All it will be
found necessary to do mil be
to cut back the jagged ends
of the shortened roots with
a sharp knife, taking care that the
cut is a slanting one and the sur-
face' of the cut facing upwards.
From this cut, facing upwards,
roots will be formed with a ten
dency to grow upwards, forming
valuable surface roots ; en the
other hand, if the end of the
root is cut with the face of the cut
part facing downwards, the new
roots formed would have a
decided tendency to strike down
to the bottom of the border, and
probably to the subsoil.
Planting.— In the first place,
put a layer of the new soil 4 inches
deep over the rough, turfy soil
already at the bottom of the
border, pressing it down firmly.
On this place the bottom layer
of roots, packing the soil over
and round them firmly with the
hands. Add another layer of
soil of the same depth and a layer
of roots as before. The last laver
of roots should be 6 inches below
the surface of the border when
it is finished. It will be observed
that the soil placed over each
layer of roots should be firmly
pressed down, as Vines succeed
so much better in firm soil than
in that which is loose and
light. The soil at planting-time
should be on the dry rather
than the wet side.
We have now finished replant-
ing the roots of the Vines. It only
reniains for tlie space of the
old border left vacant behind the
wall of turf to be filled with fresb
leaves. Beech or Oak leaves for
preference, and be trodden down hard. New summer
roots will find their way into the leaves, with the
result that considerable added strength will be
given to the restoration of the Vines. These
leaves should be taken out the following winter,
cutting away any roots there may Ise back to the
face of the wall of turf, and filling again with
leaves as before. The second winter the leaves
must be taken away and the roots treated as
before, the space filled this time with soil and
made to form part of the new permanent border.
I have been presuming that the Vines under
treatment are growing in a double border (inside
and out) and that the inside only has been treated.
THE BALEARIC SANDWORT (aRENARIA BALEARICA) FORMI.NG A
FLORAL CASCADE IX THE ROCK GARDEN.
comes from them (the function of this material
is to keep the border sweet, porous and well
aerated), one barrow-load of old mortar or plaster
rubble, a small barrow-load of quicklime, solb.
of half-inch bones and the same of bone-dust,
and half a bushel of soot or of wood-ashes. Mix
the whole well together by turning over several
times, when it will be ready to plant the Vine
roots in.
The first thing to do in starting on the new
border is to buUd a wall of turf about a foot wide
and as high as the surface of the old border, and
at a distance from the stems of 6 feet (it will.
NOVEiMBER 7, I914.]
THE GARDEN.
545
to the same
prevent too
The outside part will have to be served in the same
way as the inner one, and in the case of single
borders, either inside or outside, the treatment
will have to be the same.
The border should receive a good soaking of
clear water to settle the soil about the roots as
soon as the planting is finished, afterwards cover-
ing the border to the depth of 7 inches with
leaves to keep it fairly dry and safe from the
effect of severe frosts. The leaves should be
removed the first week in May, and the border
left exposed for a fortnight to dry and sweeten
its surface, when it may receive a good soaking
I if weak manure-water, afterwards adding a
mulcliing of fresh horse-manure and loam in equal
■quantities, with a light sprinkling of bone-dust.
This mulching should be 3 inches deep and pressed
firmly to the border, covering it
depth with half-decayed litter to
rapid evaporation. As a result of
this treatment it will be found that
by midsummer, or soon after, the
new soil and mulch will be densely
permeated with new feeding roots,
and the Vines correspondingly
strengthened.
My remarks so far have applied
to root culture alone, which, after
all, is the mainspring to all good
culture, as, unless a plant or a tree
possesses abundance of healthy,
strong roots, successful results are
impossible. I will only say this
much in reference to the culture of
the Vine itself under glass — that the
cultivator must bear in mind the
rough ordeal the roots of the Vines
haye gone through. The Vines must
not be forced prematurely into
growth, but allowed to break
naturally through sun - heat in
spring, the object being to secure
as strong a break of shoots as
possible. The Vines should only be
allowed to carry a very light crop the
first year after lifting ; afterwards
they may carry full crops. X. Y. Z.
It has red berries, which are usually produced in
abimdance. All three are natives of the Himalayas,
and are not difficult to grow. C. adpressa was
introduced to this country from China some years
ago, and promises to be a very useful shrub for the
rock garden. It is of very dwarf habit and
deciduous, but before they fall the leaves turn a
beautiful orange colour. It has small pink flowers,
which are succeeded by red berries. C. humifusa
or C. Dammeri only grows a few inclies high, and
is admirably adapted for trailing down the face
of a projecting rock. It is evergreen, the foliage
taking on a fine tint in autumn, which harmonises
well with its scarlet berries. All these Cotoneasters
like good loamy soil, and C. humifusa appreciates
a little peat mixed with the loam. They should
be given a fairly deep root run ; a foot is not too
much for C. horizontalis, C. rotundifoha and
C. microphylla. All can be successfully planted
THE MARSH MARIGOLDS.
IT would he difficult to find a more pleasing
British bog plant tlian the common Marsh
Marigold or Kingcup. Caltha palustris.
Its brilliant golden blooms, so neatly set
off with a foil of delicate green foliage,
transform our swamps into beautiful
pictures during the latter part of April and the
early days of May. In tlie Southampton district
we have vivid recollections of acres of marshland
transformed almost into a carpet of gold with
the blooms of this plant. Happily, in our gardens
we are broad-minded enougli to make use of this
wilding by tiie margins of ponds or lakes, where
vegetation of many kinds can be allowed to follow
its own sweet will and produce its floral tribute
unspoiled by too severe restriction.
BERRIED SHRUBS
FOR THE ROCK
GARDEN.
A WATERSIDE SCENE IN THE GARDENS AT LOCKINGE MARSH MARIGOLDS IN THE FOREGROUND.
DURING the autumn and winter
I months, when rock garden flowers
I are by no means plentiful, the
' dwarf Cotoneasters, with their
scarlet or red berries, and, in
some instances, evergreen foliage,
are interesting and beautiful. There are several
species well adapted for planting at the summits
of good-sized boulders, over which their neat,
close-growing branches can trail ; or, if preferred,
such as C. horizontalis can be planted at the foot
of a large rock, which, as it grows, it will hug so
closely as to almost appear to be part of the rock
itself. This is a deciduous species, but in autumn
and winter its branches are bespangled with scarlet
berries. C. microphylla, as its name implies, has
very small leaves. It forms a neat little shrub,
and is evergreen. It has red berries, and is perhaps
the best of the older species for the rock garden.
C. rotundifolia is deciduous or sub-evergreen, the
leaves being nearly round and dark green in colour.
early in April, but it is advisable to obtain plants
that have been established in pots. S. X.
THE BALEARIC SANDWORT.
There are few more easily grown plants in the
rock garden than the dainty httle Sandwort that
has the rather unwieldy name of .Arenaria balearica.
It loves a shady and, in summer, a rather moist
situation, where it will quickly establish itself
and form a perfect carpet of vivid green. When
in May this verdure is closely studded with the
tiny white, star-like blossoms, the plant never
fails to elicit praise from even the veriest tyro. In
the illustration on page 544 it will be seen forming a
sort of floral cascade over some sandstone boulders,
the effect thus created being a particularly happy
one. Although it prefers shade and moisture
during hot weather, this plant is so accommodating
that it ™ll give a good account of itself in almost
any situation. It is easily propagated by division,
preferably during moist weather in spring.
In addition to the ordinary Marsh Marigold,
there are two varieties with double flowers, viz..
C. palustris flore pleno and C. p. monstrosa plena.
Both are useful for the waterside or bog garden,
and the accompanying illustration shows a few
good plants of the former in the famous gardens
at Lockinge. A comparatively new addition
to the genus, and a giant in stature, is C. poly-
petala, a very noble plant that ought to be found
on the margins of every garden pond in the country.
It attains a height of 2 feet, and its large yellow
flowers are produced on stout, robust stems.
Individual leaves often measmre i foet across,
hence when not in flower it is quite an attractive
plant. These Marsh Marigolds are by no means
difficult to grow, and can be planted at almost
any time during the winter, though many prefer
early spring. They all need moist soil, and are
best planted in fairly large pieces, preferably
by the side of a stream or pool, as shown in the
illustration.
546
THE GARDEN.
[November 7, 1914-
(licit reproduced), t(.i which a book prize was also
awarded. In his No. 3 design we notice the
PRIZE DESIGNS IN OUR 1 common failing of a pergola which bears no very
THE LITTLE GARDEN.
FURTHER
COMPETITION.
r E now reproduce a further series
of designs which secured prizes
in our recent competition. Mr.
H. A. Rowbothani won a book
prize for Site No. 2. A good
point about his scheme is
that he has kept steadily in mind the views
w
definite relation to anything, though it has the
subsidiary advantage of screening the little alpine
garden from the Rose garden south of the dining-
room. Something may be said in criticism of
providing a gravel walk 10 feet wide and nearly
100 feet in length. It gives a rather cold and
bare appearance, and takes an amount of mainte-
nance which we should grudge. It would have
DESIGNED BY H. A. ROWBOTHAM.
In discussing the making of the little garden.
Country Life lays down six outstanding points
which need to be borne steadily in mind.
" In planning it is important (i) to ensure that
every part of the garden shall bear a definite
relation to the house which it serves. (2) That
the design shall be essentially simple, i.e.. that
the space shall not be frittered away by multiplied
features ; and (3) that the lines of these parts
shall be so laid down that the whole shall achieve
a definite shapeliness. The three points in plant-
ing are subordinate to the fact that the owner
of a little garden can rarely devote either much
monev or considerable labour to its tending.
He, nevertheless, should seek to secure (i) a
sufficient rotation of flowers to ensure gaiety in
the garden during spring and summer and early
autumn ; (2) as rich a pleasure in colour and
scent as may be contrived with small expendi-
ture ; and (3) some practical return for his labour
in vegetables and fruit. Many blunders would
be avoided if it were generally appreciated that
the whole garden scheme should be considered from
the first in its relation to the house."
from the windows of the two principal rooms,
but its defect is in the rather too ample spaces
he has given to borders, &c. This garden would
certainly take a lot of work to keep it up. The
kitchen garden is well screened from the Rose
garden, not only by the pergola, but also by
espalier fruit trees, which are further used to form
a boundary on its south side. It is not so clear
that the espalier fence which borders the south-
east comer of the site is so well placed, because
the standard trees would keep the south sun
from the fruit. The general criticism of the
design is that it is rather too much cut up, and
would in practice have a somewhat spotty
effect.
Mr. Ernest Biggs shows some good ideas in
his scheme for Site No. 3, which secured a
book prize, but there seems to be no justifica-
tion for the shapeless outline given to the
entrance path. The draughtsmanship suggests
that this competitor is more familiar with
the practical side of gardening, and probably
the scheme, if worked out, would look better
than the drawing suggests. The pergola is
well placed, because it joins up directly with
the house verandah and leads to the rock
garden, which it cuts off from the herbaceous
garden to the west. It is doubtful whether a
bank of Rhododendrons is a very interesting
feature immediately outside the south window
if the dining-room.
The last design we shall consider and reproduce
is also for Site No. 3, for which Mr. Thornton
Sharp received a book prize. It is in strong
contrast to the treatment of the last design, which
showed the minimum amount of plain lawn,
whereas in Mr. Sharp's case he evidently thought
that the demands of lawn tennis were paramount.
He has succeeded in providing a lawn 50 feet
wide, which is 10 feet narrower than the ideal,
but the maximum that the site would allow.
This competitor is evidently somewhat wedded
to rustic features, which are not, however, used
so extensively here as in his design for Site No. 4
been much better to
have narrowed this
walk and thrown the
additional space
into the borders,
which would look dis-
tinctly meagre in so
narrow a width as
4 feet. In the case of
a design like this, where
the claims of the tennis
lawn greatly reduce the
space available for other
flowers, the proper
policy to pursue is to
mass the colour effect
in a generous fashion,
and that cannot be
done with a 4 - feet
border. The kitchen
garden is well arranged,
and divided from the
private garden by a
Yew hedge, while the
garden shed helps to
mask the kitchen yard.
Although many others
among the drawings to
which book prizes are
awarded showed a con-
siderable grasp of the
problems of design, they
do not show any features
which are not repre-
sented in the scliemes
illustrated in this and
onr last three issues.
Enough plans, however,
ha\e now been repro-
duced to mark the
variety and skill which
the competition has
evoked, and we are
satisfied that our
readers will have
derived both pleasure
and li e n e f i t from
the study of the
designs.
W \^ .. U^. .', . --li:^- - '-■^i^-^ ' i LIBRARY I LLl /'^\\ ^- -■■ — ■ -^zy /g.^ -
hiQ^d^L£a^^
., /f... M», ,/.g ,lr.j:...
c>i3M4:y&y'^3
SITE NO. 3.
-DESIGNED BY
ERNEST BIGGS.
SITE NO. 3. — DESIGNED BY THORNTON SHARP.
November 7, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
547
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruit Under Glass.
Succession Peach Trees. — The pruning, wash-
ing and tying of these trees should be accomplished
with as little delay as possible, so that by the end
of the year all such work may be finished. Let
the shoots be well thinned out before the trees
are untied, so that the operator can see at once
which shoots to remove. The aim should be to
remove a number of old, unfruitful shoots each
season, so that space may be available for tying
in young fruiting wood. In cases where the soil
has become exhausted, it is necessary to remove as
much of it as possible wathout injury to the roots,
and replace it with good, rich loam, to which a
quantity of old lime rubble and crushed bones has
been added. If the trees are young and the borders
in good condition, the removal of an inch of the
surface soil will be sufficient. See that the soil
does not become too dry, or bud-dropping may
result in the spring.
Tomatoes. — Fruiting plants must be very
carefully watered during the winter months.
A night temperature of 60° is quite high enough
in mild weather, and this should be allowed to
drop to 55° if cold weather sets in. Keep the
atmosphere on the dry side, and remove side shoots
as they appear. Succession plants which are
intended to produce supplies in January maj' be
given some stimulant twice weekly, and the
flowers should be artificially pollinated as they
become open. Air should be admitted night and
day until a crop has been secured, after which
the teipperature may be increased, if necessary, to
keep up a regular supply.
Tlie Flower Garden.
Summer Bedding Plants which have been
rooted in frames should be freely ventilated while
the weather is mild. The tops of the most forward
plants may be pinched out in order to keep them
stocky.
Ranunculus. — The present month is a suitable
time to make plantations of Ranunculus, although
planting is frequently put off until fhe early
months of the year. By so doing, however, one
runs the risk of bad weather, and the operation
may have to be put off too long, the vigour of the
plants being reduced in consequence. The soil
should be deeply dug and enriched with a dressing
of decayed horse-manure. Plant in rows 9 inches
apart, and cover with 2 inches of fine soil ; or they
may be planted in clumps on a sunny border
which is set apart for spring-flowering plants.
Climbing Plants on Walls or Pillars.^Many
of these, having become entangled, should now be
liberated and trained in their proper quarters.
Clematis will require careful attention in order
to keep the shoots from injury. Cut away all
superfluous growths, and train the remainder
carefully to the wires. It is advisable to retain
a good portion of the young wood in case the shoots
may be thinned by sharp frost.
Lily of the Valley. — November is a good month
to plant roots of Lily of the Valley. The ground
should be well prepared by digging in a good
quantity of decaj'ed manure and sharp sand.
A border facing north or east will suit them well.
The crowns should be planted in rows r foot
apart, and covered in such a manner as to allow
the points to be just showing through the ground.
A covering of fine leaf-soil may be placed over the
border to the depth of i inch.
Plants Under Glass.
Arum Lilies. — If blooms are desired for
Christmas decoration, some of the most forward
plants should be placed in heat at once. A newly
started vinery will suit them well. VVith regard
to heat and moisture, water freely with liquid
manure, and keep the plants well exposed to the
light. For succession plants a frost-proof house
is all that is necessary at present.
Eucharis grandiflora. — Plants which have been
resting during the autumn may now be placed in
a temperature of 70° with a view to producing
flowers about the end of the year. These plants
require a good supply of moisture to the roots,
and, when the flower-spikes begin to push up,
liquid manure should be freely given. If insects
are present on the plants, the foliage sh"uld be
carefully sponged before the plants are placed in
heat.
Begonia Gloire de Lorraine. — The earliest
batch of these plants are now in full bloom, and
will benefit by a slight drop in the temperature ;
65° at night will be quite sufficient after the flowers
have developed. Keep the atmosphere moderately
dry, and open the ventilators during the early
part of the day. Successional plants should be
well supplied with atmospheric moisture and
frequently watered with artificial manure.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Planting Bush Fruit Trees. — There is no time
like the present for making new plantations of
Gooseberry or Currant trees. In all cases the
ground should be trenched and a good dressing
of decayed manure given. If the ground is of
a heavy nature, a quantity of wood ashes or old
lime rubble may be mixed with it as the work
proceeds. A space of g feet should be allowed
between the plants, as this will permit them to grow
for several seasons without being overcrowded.
The planting of all kinds of fruit trees should be
pushed forward while the weather is mild and dry.
No work in this department is of such importance
at present.
The Kitchen Garden.
Mushrooms. — If horse-manure is available,
collect and prepare it for making up new beds,
from which supplies may be expected about the
end of the year. The material should be placed
in an open shed and turned every second day,
until sufficient has been collected to make up the
bed. Make this quite firm by ramming, and spawn
when the temperature of the bed decreases to 80°.
Keep the atmosphere moist by damping the walls
and floor, but avoid frequent watering of the bed.
•■Vvoid fire-heat, as this has a drying influence
on the atmosphere ; 50° to 55° is quite high
enough.
Cauliflowers in Pits. — These plants should be
freely ventilated during mild weather. Finish
potting as quickly as possible, so that the plants
may become established before winter sets in.
Lettuce in cold pits should be left uncovered
as late in the season as possible, in order to keep
the plants hardy. Keep the soil moved between
the plants, and dust frequently with lime to keep
slugs in check. Lettuce seeds may still be sown
in a cold pit to produce plants for the spring.
Maximum, Stanstead Park and Hardy White Cos
are good varieties for this purpose.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Winter Spinach. — This important winter vege-
table should be closely examined, and all weeds
and decaying leaves at once removed ; the latter
are very harmful. Should the plants seem too
close together, it will be as well to draw out a
few, disturbing the soil as little as possible.
Potatoes. — Where these are forced early, the
sets should now be selected and placed in shallow
boxes with a view to starting them into growth.
Some fine soil ought to be worked in among the
sets, and have the bo.xes placed where there is
a good light to encourage sturdy growth. Mid-
lothian Early and Sharpe's Victor are e.xcellent
varieties for this early work.
Autumn-Sown Onions. — In many districts the
transplanting of these may be done now ; indeed,
where this is possible, better results may be had
from those planted now, as it checks too rapid
growth. On the other hand, .where the soil is
heavy, and consequently cold and wet, it is much
better to defer transplanting till the early spring.
The Flower Garden.
Roses. — The planting season is now here,
and although planting may not have to be done
to any extent, there are sure to be blanks to be
filled up, or, it may be, the trunk of an old tree
to be furnished. In this connection much can
be done to brighten odd comers in the flower
garden by planting here and there an occasional
climbing Rose. Planting in such places should, as
far as possible, be carried out before the end of
the year.
Salvia patens. — -This lovely blue-flowered plant
has been very fine this autumn, and was in bloom
till well into October. When the growth has
been cut down by frost, the tubers should be
lifted, placed in boxes, and given the protection
of at least a cold frame. In many districts the
plant is allowed to remain outside during the
winter, but at best this is rather risky. Unlike
many other tubers, it must not be kept very dry,
as, owing to the lateness of the growth, the roots
are inclined to shrivel.
Pampas Grass. — Very few plants produce
such a fine effect at this season of the year as the
Pampas Grass, to say nothing of its usefulness
in making up large vases for house decoration.
These plants must now be protected from frost
during the winter. Many fine specimens are
lost annually through not observing this pre-
caution. For these and similar plants there is
possibly nothing better than sifted ashes for
protection.
Rock Garden. — Many small alpines and rock
plants of doubtful hardiness must be closely
examined during cold and foggy weather. In
some instances it may be necessary to transfer
the choicest of these to the alpine frame. But
as damping is most to be feared, a handful of
small granite chips placed carefully round the
plants may serve to bring them safely through the
winter. Remove all decaying leaves and other
rubbish which tends to create dampness.
Plants Under Glass.
Camellias. — Attend carefully to the watering
of these hard-wooded plants at this season, whether
grown in pots or planted out, as, if allowed to become
dry at this stage, serious damage may result from
buds dropping in the spring. Plants well set
with buds may have frequent applications of
liquid manure, and where buds are rather numerous
these may be reduced gradually.
Ferns. — Among the greater number of these,
active growth will have ceased for the season ; there-
fore the greatest care must be exer.oised in watering.
Although these must never be allowed to become
dust dry, the supply of water to the roots should
be reduced, to enable the plants to have a complete
rest. This, of course, only applies to the deciduous
varieties.
Roses. — Those growing on pillars or on the
roof should now be pruned, and though cleanliness
is essential to the well-being of all indoor plants,
it is especially so with Roses, owing to the fact that
they are mostly grown against walls, and there-
fore more difficult to keep clean. Before tying
them up, have the wall and woodwork thoroughly
washed down. As soon as they have -started
into growth, ventilating must be carefully attended
to, as draughts will most assuredly bring about
mildew. As a preventive it will be a good plan
to put flowers of sulphur on the hot-water pipes.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Pruning Gooseberries. — Where large breadths
of these are grown, the pruning is often very
protracted work. A start, however, should be
made at once, especially on wet and heavy
soils. These, when the work is left until later,
become very wet and sticky and make the
task much more unpleasant. In this early
pruning, allowance must aUvays be made for
depredations by birds by retaining a few extra
shoots ; that is, of course, if means cannot be
adopted to protect them. Whatever method
of pruning is followed, the centre of the bushes
must in all cases be well thinned out, or, as I
pointed out on a former occasion, the centre
shoot may be trained to a stake.
Fruit Under Glass.
Late Grapes. — Owing to the dull and foggy
weather usually experienced at this season of the
year, special care will be necessary in the manage-
ment of the late varieties of Grapes still hanging.
Lady Dowaie's, with its thick skin, will be fairly safe
for another month yet ; but such varieties as
Alicante and Lady Hutt will, owing to the size
and thickness of the bunches, be more liable to
be affected by dampness. An equal temperature
of about 50° should be maintained and the house
freely ventilated on fine days.
John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopetoun Gardens, South Queensferry, N. B.
548
THE GARDEN.
[November 7, 1914-
CULTIVATION AND COL-
LECTION OF MEDICINAL
PLANTS IN ENGLAND.
[The following has been recently published as
Leaflet No. z88 by the Board of Agriculture.]
[EDICINAL herbs have been culti-
vated in this country for centuries,
and in the Middle Ages were grown
in kitchen gardens attached to
monastic establishments and the
mansions of noblemen At the
present day materia medica (or drug) farms exist
at Mitcham, Carshalton, Hitchin, AmpthiU, Long
Jlelford, Steppingley, Market Deeping and Wisbech,
but for many years the main source of British
drugs has been mid-Europe, particularly Germany
and Austria-Hungary.
During recent years the acreage devoted to
drug cultivation in Britain has been more and
more restricted by competition with wild foreign
products, and the result has been a slow but sure
ousting of British-grown drugs from the market.
The advent of a European war has completely
changed the situation, and an effort on the part
of growers and drug merchants may largely secure
for England the collection and cultivation for the
future of medicinal plants which can for the
present no longer be imported from Central Europe.
Supplies of drugs, especially of Belladonna leaves
and root, are much in demand, but in the case
of other Continental drugs grown in England
the shortage is not so serious.
The price of Belladonna has risen seriously
(more than loo per cent.) since the outbreak of
war, and as it takes at least two years to grow
this drug in quantity, the drug grown next year
is likely to realise high prices. This applies in
lesser degree to Chamomile, Dill, Dandelion
and Valerian. The prices of Colchicum, Digitalis,
Fennel, Henbane, Stramonium and " botanical
herbs " must also be considerably affected.
The limited outlet for most drugs makes over-
loading the market a comparatively easy matter,
and any grower who proposes to devote attention
to the cultivation of medicinal plants should give
the matter careful consideration before embarking
on it to any serious extent. For a number of
growers, however, who can successfully raise
good crops, handsome profits should be made in
the near future.
Co-operation. — The most important drug
industry — Cinchona bark production — - has
witnessed quite recently the fruits of co-operation
between producer and manufacturer in restricting
the output within reasonable limits. So far,
consumers appear to be unaffected, while all other
handlers of bark and quinine, other than specu-
lators, are in a decidedly better position.
Some arrangement might perhaps be made to
ensure British drug-growers a fair return for their
""( fforts. Co-operation between growers and whole-
sale druggists would probably prove effective.
Soil and Manuring. — Soil in good condition
for ordinary farm crops is suitable for growing
most medicinal plants. In general, care should
be taken to keep down weeds and ensure a good
tilth. A medium dressing of farmyard manure
is usually advantageous, although not actually
necessary.
Drying of Crops. — The drying of medicinal
herbs is a matter of great importance, and regular
growers have proper drying plant, heated arti-
ficially, so that quantities of the drugs can be
dried quickly and thoroughly in a current of warm
air. Facilities for drj'ing purposes are necessary
to the grower of medicinal herbs. Glass houses
could readily be converted into drying sheds,
especially if heated bv pipes. Drying could be
done in half shade in fine summer weather by
spreading thin layers of the leaves on sheets
in the open, or on racks or shelves in a freely
ventilated shed, turning frequently until quite
dry. The leaves or flowers must be kept under
cover at night or during rain. "Even colour"
is best retained by quick drying, and the brighter
the colour the more saleable the product. Those
who intend to market dry leaves or flowers could
gather and dry in small portions, which are more
manageable. Roots present less difficulty in
washing and drying.
The most important British drugs are dealt
with briefly here, while a number of others are
also mentioned, though their supph' is more or
less restricted.
The South of England is especially suited to
drug-growing, and is further favoured in being
close to the principal consuming market.
The greatest difficulty to be encountered by
the grower will be to obtain sufficient seeds or
dormant plants to start growing medicinal herbs.
ACONITE (ACONITUM NAPELLUS, L.).
The chief collecting centres for foreign .\conite
root are the Swiss Alps, Salzburg, North Tyrol
and Vorarlberg. Swiss supplies (which have come
vid Germany) may be cut off as well as the others.
Supplies of Japanese Aconite root are plentiful,
and Spanish root is also coming into the market,
so that the demand for English Aconite will
probably be restricted. The price of the Conti-
nental root is about 50s. per cwt., and Japanese
(usually ascribed to A. Fischeri, Reichb.) about
35s. per cwt., while English is ordinarily worth
2S. per lb. Cultivation of Aconite has not paid
in recent years, even with cultivated root four
times the price of wild. Leaves are of little
importance.
Cultivation. — The official ,\conite (Aconitum
Napellus, L.) grows wild in some shady places
in the West of England and in South Wales. It
prefers a soil slightly retentive of moisture, and
among the drug farms the moist loam of Arapthill
or the dark soil at Market Deeping proved most
suited to Aconite cultivation.
Beds for growing Aconite are all the better for
being shaded. The soil should be well dug, and
pulverised by early winter frosts. The digging
in of rotted leaves or stable manure is advantageous.
Aconite can be raised from seed, but it takes
two or three years to flower. It is almost invariab'y
propagated from the smaller (daughter) roots
which develop at the sides of old roots. The under-
ground portions of the plants are dug up in the
autumn, after the stem has died down, and sorted
over, the plumper roots being reserved for washing,
splitting and drying to form the .Aconite root of
commerce.
Replanting is usually done in December iA'
January, the young roots being planted about
a foot apart each way. The young shoots appear
above ground in February. Although the plants
are perennial, each root lasts only one year. The
autumn-dug daughter root crowned with un-
developed buds is official in the British Pharma-
copoeia, but German root is derived from plants
gathered in flower. Aconite would grow luxuriantly
in a moist open wood, and would yield returns
with little further trouble than weeding, digging
up and drying. A great disadvantage of growing
Aconite from seed is the uncertainty as to correct-
ness of the species, an important point as regards
medicinal acti\ity. Therr are- seime sixtv species.
BELLADONNA (ATROPA BELLADONNA, L.).
Prospects. — ^The bulk of the world's supply
of Belladonna is derived from wild plants growing
in quantity on waste, stony places in Southern
Europe. The industry is an important one in
Croatia and Slavonia (South Hungary), some
fifty exporters being engaged in buying the root
and leaves from cejilcctejrs and exporting the drug
chiefly to Wiirtemberg. The largest exporter
in Slavonia sent out 29,88o!b. of dry Belladoima
root in igo8.
Continued shortage will almost certainly exist
during the next few years. If seeds are sown in
October, a small crop of leaves may be obtained
in the following year if plants grow strongly.
High prices will probably continue until the root
is dug three or four years hence. It is usually
difficult to obtain more than £ro per acre for a
crop of Belladonna, but those who can contract
to deliver Belladonna next year should obtain
more than this for the sparse first year's cutting.
Cultivation. — Belladonna is grown from seed,
and an initial difficulty will be to obtain supplies
of fresh fruits or seeds. The plant grows wild
in the Southern Coimties of England, especially
near old ruins, but it has become much rarer of
late years. The fruits ripen from August to
October, and those who know the haunts of the
plant might profitably gather fruits for sale.
The seeds taken from the berries are washed in
a sieve and dried.
Belladonna grows on most soils, but is partial
to a chalky substratum. The seeds germinate
slowly, and some autumn sowing is necessary,
but sowing may also be done in spring. The
seeds are drilled in rows 3 feet apart, using 2lb.
to 31b. of seed to the acre. A reserve of plants
is also grown in seed-beds to fill in gaps due to
dormant seeds and winter's losses. The seedlings
are liable to injury by late frosts, and a light
top-dressing of farmyard manure serves to preserve
young shoots from injury during sudden and
dangerous changes in temperature. Healthy yoimg
plants soon become re-established when trans-
planted, but require watering if the weather is
dry at the time of transplanting. Great care
must be taken to keep the crop clean in spring,
or the seedlings may be choked by weeds.
The plants may be left 18 inches apart the
first year, and by September the single stem
will be rj feet to 2J feet high. A gathering of
leaves may then be made if the plants are strong.
" leaves " meaning the broken-off tops of the
plant. The coarser stems are left on the plant,
and discoloured portions are rejected. Women
are employed for gathering. Before the approach
of winter, plants should be thinned to 2J feet to
3 feet apart, or overcrowding will result in the
second year, in which the plants will bear one or
two strong stems.
The English 'crop is cut with sickles in the second
year while flowering in June, and is usually carted
straight to the factory for extract making (i.e.,
before it has time to " heat "). The leaves (tops)
lose four-fifths of their weight on drying, an opera-
tion attended with difficulty. Growers who intend
to have their crop worked up into extract must
arrange for delivery at the mills on the day
it is cut, because heated material is useless for
November 7, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
549
extracting. With modern motor traction it
sliould be possible to deliver twenty miles away
very quicldy.
The average crop of fresh herb in the second and
third years is 5 tons to 6 tons per acre. A second
crop is obtained in September in good seasons.
The plant is dug or ploughed up during autumn
in the fourth year, and the root is collected, washed
and sliced to accelerate drying. In time of great
scarcity it would probably pay to dig up root
in the third year. Three parts of fresh root
yield a little over one part of dry root. The
greatest loss of plants is in wet winters. On the
lighter soils there is less danger from winter loss,
but the plants are more liable to damage from
drought in summer on such soils.
{To be confhnted.)
BOOKS.
National Dahlia Society's Supplement.* —
The annual Supplement and Conference Report
of this society is before us, and constitutes a useful
addition to others which have preceded it. Quite
fittingly in a prefatory note reference is made
to the loss the society has sustained by the
death of its president, Mr. George Gordon,
V.M.H., who did so much for the advancement
of the Dahlia as a garden flower, The tribute
is accompanied by an excellent photograph of
Mr. Gordon. A special value attaches to the
present supplement, in that it deals with the
extensive trials conducted during the year 1913
at Duffryn, near Cardiff ; and Mr. Cory's observa-
tions thereon, which extend to all sections of the
flower, will doubtless be perused with interest.
The trials in question are the largest ever con-
ducted in a private garden, and it should be
remembered that one of its chief objects was to
test the decorative or garden value of the flower.
To this end Continental and home growers were
invited to contribute varieties they deemed
valuable for the purpose, the result being that
between 7,000 and 8,000 plants in nearly one
thousand distinct vaiieties were received. The
report deals in detail with the numbers received
in each section and those gaining commendation ;
hence its value. For example, 150 Collarette
varieties were received and only twenty-three
honoured. Complete lists of all so honoured
follow in their sections, with colour and heiglit.
Mr. H. Shoesmith contributes a paper on " The
Dahlia of To-day," which is well worth perusing.
Included are photographs of Mr. Reginald Cory
(in whose garden at Duffryn the igrs trials were
conducted) and of Mr. Joseph Cheat, chairman of
committee.
Saxifrages. t — This handy volume, which, with
appendix and index, extends to nearly one hundred
and fifty pages, treats of one of the most important
and, for the most part, fascinating families of
hardy plants, one which, so far as the rock gardener
and alpine lover is concerned, is as a treasure-house
from which rich stores may be taken at will.
The book, too, in view of the promised conference
on the genus in 1915, comes at an opportune
moment, though at any time it would have been
welcome. It is, so far as we remember, the first
of its kind in the English language, and now that
it is an accomplished fact it will be welcomed
• " National Dahlia Society's Supplement." Published
by the National Dahlia Society. Secretary, Mr, J. B.
Riding, Chingford.
t " Saxifrages," by Walter Irving and Reginald A.
Malby. London ; Headley Brothers. Price 2s. 6d.
as " guide, counsellor and friend " by the thousands
who now cultivate the many species and varieties
the genus contains for the pleasure they afford.
Bereft of its Saxifrages, the rock garden or alpine
liouse would be poor indeed ; and even these
do not exhaust the resources of this valuable
race of hardy plants. Others there are just as
well suited as edgings to shrubbery borders, to
woodland places and the bog garden ; and it
is these all-embracing characteristics, with simple
cultural requirements for the most part, which
places the genus upon the topmost rung of Popu-
larity's ladder. Apart from an intellectual chapter
on the " Saxifrages of the Pyrenees," by Dr.
John H, Salter, and " Saxifrages in the Rock
Garden," by Mr. R. A. Malby, the book resolves
itself into a monograph of the genus, treating
of the species in their several groups, of which
fifteen, with an illustrated key, are given in its
opening pages. In these chapters we have the
essence and value of the volume backed by the
authoritative experiences of the author at Kew,
where for so many years he has cultivated an
almost unique collection of these plants, and so
well. Emanating, as it were, from such a source,
the amateur will be relieved to learn that the
descriptions are devoid of technicalities and
couched in the simplest terms, and wiU be readily
grasped by all. In an opening paragraph at the
head of the more important groups and inter-
spersed with the descriptions of some of the species
are to be found concise cultural hints of some
importance. Despite these facts, we should have
preferred to see — and are of opinion that a greater
service would have been rendered to the Saxifrage-
loving public had there been — brief chapters de-
voted to " Cultivation and Propagation," to " Uses
and Adaptabilities," to selections for " Grouping,"
" Colonising " or " Crevice Planting," and to
other things. Chapters on such important matters
would have tended to make a valuable work
invaluable to the amateur, who, hungering and
thirsting for such knowledge, is, after all, the
only one to cater for, the specialist knowing these
things by heart. In all, the book, according to
the index, embraces upwards of three hundred
species, varieties and hybrids, a number which,
while demonstrating the importance and extent
of the genus, is, even then, by no means exhaustive.
But it gives of the best and, as the author points
out in a prefatory note, is intended " to help the
garden lover to become acquainted with the most
important members of the family, so that he may
be able to choose the best varieties, and, having
chosen, to grow them successfully."
A few clerical errors, inseparable from a book
when more than one writer contributes thereto,
should be righted in future editions. At pages
loi and raS appear " Haagei " and " Haagii " ;
at pages ro3 and rap, " Obristii " and " Obristi " ;
at pages 108 and 123, " Dr. Ramsey " and " Dr.
Ramsay " ; and at pages 129 and 105 Sundermanni
is rendered with one " n " and two " n's " in
the final syllable. At page 22 " Guildford Seed-
ling " is cited as the product of " S. muscoides
var. atropurpurea," though the writer had it
on the authority of the late Mr. Selfe-Leonard,
in whose collection it originated, that it came as a
" chance seedling from S. m. Rhei." " Faldon-
side," again, at page 100, is cited as being of
burseriana x aretioides parentage, whereas it
occurred as a subsequent seedling from S. Boydii,
as did S. B. alba and S. B. lutea, hence is only
related to the above parentage in this connection.
The parentage of S. bursiculata should have been
given as burseriana major x apiculata, its raiser's
name " Jenkins," not " Jenkyns." These hybrid
Saxifrages, with their known or presumed parent-
ages arranged in a chapter apart, constitute a
most interesting part of the book, an invaluable
guide — if not quite infallible — to the student or
worker in the same field, since, however large
or extended this hybrid set might now appear
to be, we lean to the view that the hybridist
has only just commenced his work. The only
thing we dissent from in the book is the author's
recommendation (page 62) to *' keep the rooted
cuttings in their cutting pots over the winter,"
experience showing that much better results
are obtained when the cuttings of these plants,
in common with others, are potted off as soon
as well rooted.
Some excellent illustrations in colour and mono-
tone are worthy of remark, and these, while a
feature in themselves, serve to ornament a book
of high importance to the lover of alpine
flowers. E. H. Jenkins.
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
Everij department of horticulture is represented in The
Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in questions
relating to matters upon which they jvish expert advice.
The Editor tvelcomes photographs^ articles and notes,
but he ivill not he responsible for their safe rctvrn. All
reasonable care, hoivever, ivill be talcen. and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contribidions .
As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Editor
asks that the pric required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must he distinctlf/ understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or oumer of the copyright ivill be treated unth.
The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.
Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C.
ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND AUSVJERS.— The Editor endeavours to
make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter ivhat the branch of gardenitig may be, and
with that object makes a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely ivritten on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When m^ore than one
query is seiit, each should be on a separate piece of paper
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or ynoss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, ivhere possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business sliould be sent to the Publisher.
THE GREENHOUSE.
HEDYCHIUM GARDNERIANUM NOT FLOWERING
(C. G. O. B.). — We think that the probable cause of
your Hedyehiuras failing to flower is that the rhizomes
are not strong enoush. This plant is as a rule far more
satisfactory when planted out in a prepared bed in a
sunny eonservatory than it is when confined in pots,
as in this way, especially if the shoots are crowded, it
does not make growth sufficiently strong to flower. The
plants at Kew referred to by you had been liberally
treated in every way; that is to say, the shoots were
limited in number, the pots large, ample stimulants
had been given, and the plants derived a considerable
amount of assistance from the warm yet stagnant
water in which they were standing. We should ad^ise
you to remove the plants from the pans of water and
gradually lessen the moisture at the roots till the stems
drop away at the base, when the soil must be kept quite
dry and "safe from frost. Then early in the spring the
plants should be repotted, using good-sized pots. A
mixture of loam, well-decayed manure, with a little
leaf-mould and sand, will suit them well. As the pots
get full of roots, give liquid manure or some other stimulant
freely. If you keep the soil dry, there is no need to
knock the plants out of the pots. We have seen the
Hedychium flowering freely out of doors in the neighbour-
hood of London, the plants being lifted during the -ninter
550
THE GARDEN.
[November 7, 1914.
months and given the same treatment as Cannas. In
the summer they were planted in an angle formed by
two greenhoufef, in which warm, saug spot thev flowered
freely. The soil was well dug and a liberal quantity of
manure ineorporated with it.
SCHIZANTHUS PLANTS FAILING (M. L. S.).— Your
plants arriv.-d in rather a bad condition, but we think
they have Ixcn attacked at the roots by a fungus, probably
a species of l-'usarium, causing them to wilt" in the same
way as Tomatoes attacked bv sleepy disease. It
would be well to heat the soil thoroughly before sowing
Schizantliii.- - I another year, so as to 'kill the spores
of the fungus ; ami p )ts. ,ve., should also be sterilised.
TREATMENT OF HYDRANGEAS 1.31. G. B. C.).—
You give us no idea of tlie size and condition of your
Hydrangeas at the present time. At all c\ents. the season
is too far advanced for you to do anvthing before the
winter. They should, if possible, be kept at that season
in a position where they are just free from frost,
but nothing more, othenvise they will not have the
necessary period of rest. Then, early in the year, if
the plants are large and bushy, any weak and over-
crowded wood should be cut out, in order to throw
the full energy of the plant into the stout terminal buds
of the stronger shoots which can be depended upon
to flower. If in your opinion the plants at that time need
repotting, this should be done before the dormant buds
burst, using for the purpose a good, fairly rich compost,
such as two parts loam and the remaining portion made
up of well-decayed manure, leaf-mould and sand. Where
the plants do not need repotting, they should, from tlie
time of starting into growth, Ix' given occasional doses
of liquid manure or some other stimulant. In order
to turn the flowers blue, many preparations are used,
with a lesser or greater measure of success. In some soils
this is an easy matter, while in others it is difficult to
obtain the desired shade. Two good preparations are
sold for the purpose, namely, Azure, which is a speciality
of Messrs. William Cutbush and Son of Highgate, and
Cyailol, which comes from the Continent and can be
obtained from horticultural sundriesmen. The presence
of lime in the soil is very detrimental to the desired blue
tint, hence the plants should never be given water that
contains chalk. Kain-watcr alone shoiild, if possible,
be used. These preparations must never In- aii])lied
while the soil is dry. The treatment, partjriilars c]f wtiieh
are supplied with each preparation, should Iw cnnimenced
directly tlie plants are ready to start into gronth.
INDOOR PLANTS IN BAD CONDITION (il/. E. B.).—
The portions of Palm leaf sent are very badly attacked
by scale insects, which should have been destroyed
when they were first seen, and not allowed to make such
headway as they have done. It will be necessary to
persevere in order to get rid of them, the best way being
to sponge the leaves carefully on both sides with a strong
solution of soft soap and warm water. This will tend to
loosen the scale, which must then be removed ^^ith a
pointed stick, taking great care not to scratch the surface
of the leaf. This done, sponge over again with the solution ;
then rinse in clean water. The stems of the plant must
also be treated in the same way, and a sharp look-out
kept on the young leaves as they unfold. The fact that
the other plants are smothered with green fly would
indicate that they have been sadly neileeted, for these
pests should have been destroyed when first seen. They
may be killed by fumigation, or more thoroughly by
vaporising with nicotine if you have a place to" isolate
them when this is being done. Dipping in soft soap
solution such as is advised for sponging the Palm will
also destroy green fly. It is obvious that without an
inspection of the plants and the conditions under which
they are grown. It i\ill be quite impossible for us to state
the cause of the trouble and whether the potting soil is
at fault. In any case, however, if you think the soil is
unsuitable and decide to repot, it is too late to do so now.
The better plan will be to wait till April. This last remark
also applies to the Aspidistra, which should not be dis-
turbed at this season of the year. Then, when the time
comes round, the plant should be turned out of the pot
and divided into as many pieces as there ar."*. crowns
or tufts of leaves. If the basil portions of the long stems
can be cut away without injury tr the roots, it will enable
you to work the tuft of leaves in the centre of the pot.
With regard to .\spidistras behaving in this way, we
find that there is a great deal of vari.ation among* indi-
viduals. We have had some plants for years, and while
most of them are of good compact hal';it,"one is no sooner
potted than it makes tracks for the side of the pot and
.soon loses its symmetry. The name of the plant of which
leaves are enclosed is Antherieiim linear", frequently
known as Phalangium lineare.
FRUIT GARDEN.
PEACH HARRINGTON SPLITTING AND KERNELS
DRYING (iJ«rfin;*(«l.— I.atr I'racle's geiirrally are liable
to this defect, Barringtoii inehuled. The cause is, we
believe, to be found in the defective setting of the flowers.
Lack of sufficient lime in the soil would, no doubt, help
to this end. With such a heavy crop as your trees are
carrying (and we presume it is the same in most years)
the soil of the border becomes exhausted, not only of
lime, but of most of its fertilising elements, and therefore
it becomes necessary to top-dress the roots annually
vnth the best new Peach soil. Before doing this, give
copious and repeated waterings of manure-water to "the
borders as soon as the fruit is gathered. Attend carefully
to fertilising the flowers with strong pollen from another
variety, and do not crop too heavily.
PLDMS ATTACKED BY FUNGUS Uwill)-~Thc
Plum is attaeki-d by tlie fungus of brown rot called Sclero-
tlnia fructigena. This fungus grows all through the
fruits, and fills them so full that thev become mummies
and remain on the tree the winter through. It also attacks
the shoots. Botli disease,! slioots and mummy fruits
should be removed and destroyed in the winter pruning,
for it is from these sources that the fungus spreads to
flowers and foliage in the spring and later to new shoots,
,Vc. It would also be well to drench the tree with a
solution of lib. of copper sulphate in twentv-five gallons
of water during the winter, and just Ix-fore the buds open
and again after the petals fall, to spray with Bordeaux
mixture.
CHERRY TREE ON WALL NOT FRUITING {East
Aiujlian). — Your better way will be to take up the Cherry
tree, and if it is fairly young and in good health, replant
in some other part of the garden, not necessarilv against
a wall, adding a liberal quantity of lime to the soil before
planting. In place of the Cherry a voung fan-trained
Plum tree of the old Green Gage variety should be planted.
\ou wiU find this will do well and give von in due time
a better return than the Cherry. Trench the soil 2 feet
deep where the tree is to be planted, and add a small
barrow-load of turfy loam and a quart of bone-meal,
ihe top roots of the tree when planted should not be
buried more than 4 inches deep with soil. Tread the
soil firmly before planting and afterwards. Plant when
the soil is fairly dry.
MISCELLANEOUS.
TROUBLESOME WEED (^Hjui >c/).— The weed is
the Wood Hnrsi-tail (Equisetum sylvaticum), one of the
most pernicious w( rd pests of the garden, and certainly
one of the most difficult to eradicate. So far as the path
is concerned, that could be successfully dealt with by
applying weed-killer at double strength during autumn
and winter. If you gave two applications from Octoljer
to February and another in spring when growth usuallv
begins — all during moist or wet weather — we think yoii
would quite eradicate it. For the garden soil the o'nlv
possible way is to fork it out — the difficulties in the way o'f
effecting a clearance being the deep-rooting character
of the weed and the brittleness of its roots. As every
atom of the latter is capable of giving rise to a new plant ,
the need for thoroughly cleaning out every particle of it
is obvious.
WORMS IN MANURE {E. B. .W.).— Worms and other
insect lili' ill niaiiiir.- may be destroyed bv turning the
manure and during the process mixing unslaked lime
with it. The lime must be evenly distributed throughout
the mass. The .ipple wee\il, the larv» of the Codlin
moth, can be checked by adopting preventive measures
during the winter and early spring. During the winter
the insects, of wiiich the larvaj in the fruits is one stage
in their life-history, are often found sheltering beneath
rough bark. They may be destroyed by removing the rough
bark and spraying the trees, when leafless, with a caustic
wash. This may be made by taking 21b. of caustic soda
(98 per cent.) and dissolving it in a wooden vessel in three
gallons of water. Then in another vessel dissolve half
a pound of soft soap in a gallon of water, add five pints
of paraffin, and stir until an emulsion is formed. Add the
two mixtures together, make up to ten gallons with clear
water, mix well and apply on a calm dav. Afterwards
the trees may be dressed with a lime wash. Any fruits
containing weevils should be removed from the "ground
and destroyed, so that the weevils or caterpillars cannot
change into mature moths. There is a verj small choice
of shrubs for planting in dense shade. A few of the best
are common Holly. Aucuba japoniea. Oval-leaved Privet,
Rhododendron pontieum, Berberis Aquifolium and Euscus
aculcatus.
LAYING OUT A GARDEN {May Blossom}.— It is not
possihl,' to iiitrudiice much originality into a narrow
stereotyped plot of garden around, though it may be made
useful in the following niaiiner. Divide off a third pari,
or more if you wish, al Uw north-west I'nd for a vegetalile
plot. Mark the division by a trellis or lattice fence with
a gateway. Encompass the central vegetable plot by a
3-feet-wide path on all sides and at 3 feet distant from
the boundary fences. This will give you border room
on three sides at all points save where the fowi run exists.
These borders may be turned to account for growing bush
fruits. Currants, Gooseberries, Raspberries, &c., also
hc^rbs, salad*. Onions and Rhubarb. Four feet from each
corner of the central vegetable plot plant Cox's Orange,
Stirling Castle, Lane's Prince Albert and Worcester
Pearmain Apple trees, i.e., two cooking and two dessert
sorts. At the flower garden side of the lattice-work fence
plant Hiawatha, Taiisendsehon and its white variety,
also American Pillar Koses, to form a screen— this instead
of the suggested Rose hedge, for wiiich we think there is
little room. In the flower garden portion the side paths
may be waved or straight, though in the eoiilliied area
named the latter would be best. Traverse tb.- tiirl jilnt
by a path as in the vegetable garden, though of greater
width, and arrange crescent-shaped beds of Roses near
each of the corners. The siile bonl.Ts could be devoted
to flowers, perennials, bulbs. Sweet Peas, Carnations and
annuals. These borders might have a turf verge. The
best self-clinging creeper is Ampelopsis Veitehii ; the best
evergreen creeper. Hedera palmata aurea (Ivy). The prize-
winning plans published in our issue for October 17 should
assist you.
NAMES OF FRUIT.— «. il/. E T.— Lamb Ahliey Pear-
main. E. Robinson.— 1, Belle Julie ; 2, Dilchessc
d'Augoiilf'me . .J. C— 1, Durondeau; 2, Duehesse
d'AngoulOmr ; 3, Broom Park ; 4. Glou iUorceau ; 5,
Jo.sephine de JIalincs ; Apple. Tibbett's Pearmain.
H. n. S//«A-»f.— Kingston Black.
NAMES OF PLANTS.— .!/. A. Gordon-Dill . — Aster
^o\ae-.\ngliae var. : it is an unnamed seedling and should
be increased by division. John Harris.— 1, Verbi-na
yeno-^a ; 2, Streptosolen Jamesii ; 3, Cornus capitata •
4. Ccstiiim ^ewellii; 5, Juniperus ehimnsis allw-varie-
gata; 6, Erythriiia Cri^ta-galli. J. .Y.— i Daphne
Cneorum ; 2, Polygonum baldsehuanieiim ; 3. Dabueeia
polUolia ; 4, Veronica spi'ciosa var. : 5, Polvsionura
amplexicaule : 6, Saxifraga cordifolia ; 7, Euphorbia
Cj-parissias ; 8, Erica vagans ; 9, G. nista hispanica ; 10
Erica carnea alba. J. B.—l, Cupressns lawsoniana
\ar. alba spica ; 2. Thuja orientalis ; 3, S.'quoia gigantea ■
4, Abies Pinsapo; 5, Chimonanthus fragrans ; fi. Cistus
salvilolius. ,1//,s-. Laurence, Heiiirorth—.Kc~ r nionspis-
sulaniim. Torqu'iii. — Spirio i pruiiifoli i
SOCIETIES.
CHELMSFORD AND DISTRICT GARDENERS-
ASSOCIATION.
The second meeting of the winter session was held in the
East .\nglian Institute of Agriculture on Friday the
23rd ult. The president, Jlr. E. H. Christy, occupied the
chair, and about thirty-five meml»rs were present. Jlr.
C. ^^akeley, staff lecturer at Ihe Agricultural In.stitule
gave an iiiten-ting lecture on " The Vegetable Garden and
its Prrsriit Iniportanee." The lecturer drew attention
to th,' paiiiplih ts, *c., wiiich wore now freely circulated
and th" advice given with regard to the cropping of every
available piece of land with vegetables, in order to ensure
a good supply during the war period. He pointed out
that caution should be displayed before acting on the
advice given, because it was doubtless some two months
ago wiien the advice was wTitten, and therefore some of
the cultural operations ad\ised, if carried out now, would
be useless. Continuing, the lecturer stated that in the
majority of gardens, allotments, &<:.. little provision
was made for the winter crops. A hearty vote of thanks
was accorded Mr. Wakeley at the conclusion of tl.e
discussion.
NATIONAL CHRYSANTHEMUM SOCIETY.
A MEETlNCl of the floral committee was held at the Essex
Hall, Essex Street, Strand, London, W.C., on Monday,
the 26th ult., when a few novelties were staged for awards.
In addition Messrs. W. Wells and Co. of Merstham ex-
hibited a collection of two dozen Japanese blooms, for
which they were awarded a large sflver medal. A silver
medal was granted to the Jlisses Price and Fyfe, East
Grinstead. for an exhibit of single and Japanese varieties.
The following novelties received awards :
Undaunted. — A large Japanese variety of good depth
and size, the broad florets being coloured rich amaranth,
with silvery reverse. First-class certificate.
Keith Luiford. — A large, creamy white Japanese
flower with excellent florets and pientv of substance.
First-class certificate. Both the foregoing were shown
by Messrs. W. Wells and Co.
Exmemth Yellow. — This is a splendid single variety
of excellent shape and rich yellow in colour. First-class
certificate. Shown by .Messrs. Godfrey and Sons, Exmouth.
BIRMINGHAM AND MIDLAND COUNTIES
GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION.
Some HIXT.S ox CHKY.S.lXTIlEMf.MS.
IN the presence of a large gathering, on Monday, the
19th ult., Mr. Woolman, ju'n.. Sandy Hill Nurscrv, Shirley,
read a very practical and equally entertaining paper,
entitled " The Chrvsanthemum for Decoration and
E.Kliibition." In order to emphasise the many changes
and stages of development which have occurred during the
I'volution of this flower, he commenced his discourse by
reading several interesting extracts from a chronicle of
its history. This began at the period wiieii the Chrysanthe-
mum belonged solely to the Orientals. From the" time of
exportation from China and introduction into civilisation —
whence it has readied its present magnificent state of
perfection — it has experienced many almost romantic
phases of alteration ; thus we have to-day blooms of
Japanese and incurves that are, according totheir species,
ponderous in dimensions. Ne.xt, dealing with its actual
cultivation, he dwiit in graphic detail with all the intrieatr
essentials that eoiieern its growth. First came the inilial
cutting stage; then the second potting; lastly, the
third and filial potting. In each case (taken from his own
personal method of procedure) he proflered many
suggestions as to the sizes of the pots and the preparatioii
of the different composts. At certain times, he added,
too, a little feeding would be helpful ; but much of the
noii-suceess in Chrysaiithenium-growing could, he urged,
be attributed to the far too prevalent abuse of over-
fe"ding. In eoiisideriiig the Chrysanthemum for exhibi-
tion, it is a mistake to think a previous year's record of
the maturing of the buds could be used as"a precedent for
forecasting the results in a succeeding season, as the fickle
English eliiiiate almost entirely will debar Ihe grower from
it. .AftiT rrfrrring to se\eral well-known favourite blooms
of dillereiit shades, he eoiuiiided his address by making a
few additional remarks upon the tweh-e sjieeiiiien blooms
he had staged within the room. Siibsrqiiiiif ly. these
splendid samples of his elforts were sold, al the suggestion
of Mr. Woolman. sen., the proceeds, amounting to 5s.,
going to the Prince of Wales's Fund, this making the
evening's collection up to, in all, 19s. 3d. 'The andionce,
before dispersing, expressed their appn>ciation of the paper
by a cordial vote of thanks, jiroposed by Mr. Cryer and
seconded by Mr. Jlarkliam.
GARDEN.!
No. 2243.— Vol. LXXVIII.
November 14, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
To Our Readers .^Soou after the outbreak
of war we made an appeal to our readers to support
the nursery, seed and bulb trade as much as they
possibly could by purchasing, if not the usual
q'lintity, at least a good proportion of the Roses,
fruit trees, plants, seeds or bulbs that would be
bought under normal conditions. It is, there-
fore, most gratifying to learn from a number of
our advertisers that the appeal has borne fruit,
and that our readers have realised that, in
buying plants and seeds for their gardens,
they are providing employment for a
thoroughly deserving and hard-working
class. We most earnestly hope that the
good example thus set will be considerably
extended. It is far better to provide work
by spending money wisely than to give
donations to relief funds, deserving as the
latter undoubtedly are. We hope that
our readers will remember that every care
is taken to exclude unreliable advertisers
from our columns, and that those whose
announcements do appear can be relied
"upon to give satisfaction.
An Autumn Snowdrop.^Probably the
finest of the autumnal Snowdrops is the
form of Galanthus octobrensis which is
shown in the accompanying illustration.
It differs from most of the other autumn
species of Galanthus in its more robust
growth, and also in the fact that its tube,
as the illustration shows, is deeply marked
with green instead of having only the
apical blotch of G. nivalis, generally seen
in the autumn Snowdrops. It comes from
Albania, where it was found by Lord
Walsingham in 1875. As the late Mr.
James Allen, whose paper on the Snow-
drops appeared in The Garden of Sep-
tember 19, 1891, remarks, it is of slow
increase. Mr. Allen also remarked that
it was of delicate constitution, and that
Mr. W. B. Boyd found it desirable to lift
it and give it a rest after flowering. We
have not found this necessary, but it is
growing on a dry part of the rock garden
where the soil is partly permeated by
shrub roots, and where it is naturally well
rested in summer.
Christmas Roses. — Where these are grown,
a little attention to them at the present time
is well repaid later. The top-dressing that was
given after the last flowering season should be
removed, also any leaves that have collected among
the plants. Prick up the soil very lightly with
a hand fork, and an application of Clay's Fertilizer
or guano will be found very beneficial. As the
purity of the flowers is often marred by mud
splashes, hand-lights or frames should be placed
over the plants. .\ir must be freely admitted
and the lights removed during mild, dry weather.
An Ornamental Berried Tree. — Although it
is ninety years ago since Cotoneaster frigida
was first introduced from Nepaul, it has not
received the attention to which its merits entitle it.
For planting in exposed situations it is most
GALANTHUS OCTOBRENSIS, A SNOWDROP THAT
FLOWERS DURING OCTOBER AND NOVEMBER.
valuable, while its growth being rapid, its habit
close and shelter-giving, and its forming a
beautiful-shaped specimen even in almost pure
clay are worth bearing in mind. The flowers,
which are in creamy white corymbs, are followed
by a bright display of scarlet berries, making the
tree particularly interesting from September
onwards.
A Basket of Fruit Realises £550. — A sale of
a basket of various fruits on behalf of a fund for
the purchase of a Red Cross motor ambulance took
place in the Commercial Sale Room, Glasgow, on
November 4, and realised £550.
Variegated Trees and Shrubs. — When trees and
shrubs are being planted for the ornamentation
of the pleasure grounds, care should be taken to
select a sufficient number with variegated foliage.
There are so many species that have forms
of this nature that it should be an easy
matter to make a suitable selection. In
planting, a much better effect is obtained
if the golden variegated forms are planted
in full sun, planting the silver variegated
ones in the shade.
How the Temperate House at Kew was
Completed. — The following extract from
the current issue of the Kew Bulletin will,
we think, be of interest to the numerous
visitors who are acquainted with the
famous Temperate House at Kew. In writ-
ing to the Director at Kew, Mr. Austen
Chamberlain says : " I do not know
whether you are aware of the full story of
the completion of the Temperate House.
One afternoon in the House of Commons,
Sir William Harcourt, then Chancellor
of the Exchequer, asked my father
to pair with him for dinner. My father
replied that he was afraid he could not
do that as he was intending to speak on
the motion which was then before the
House. ' Oh ! ' said Sir William, ' don't
do that, for if you speak I shall have to
stop and reply, and I particularly want
to keep my engagement this evening,'
' Well,' replied my father, ' I will make a
bargain with you if you like. If you will
agree to put money in next year's estimates
to complete the Temperate House at Kew,
I will pair with you for as long as you
wish.' And Sir William Harcourt, nothing
loath, assented. My father at once com-
municated this to Sir William Thiselton-
Dyer ; but when the next j^ear's estimates
came out Sir William found to his horror
that the money for the Temperate House
had been struck out. He appealed to
my father, and my father to Sir William Harcourt,
and the Chancellor, recognising that a bargain
was a bargain, directed that a supplementary
estimate should be brought in to provide the
promised funds. I once suggested to the present
Mr. Lewis Harcourt that this characteristic
Parliamentary anecdote should be recorded on
the Temperate House itself."
552
THE GARDEN.
[November 14, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
(The Editor is not rcspo)isibU for the opinions
expressed by correspojidents. )
Peas and Young Vegetable Marrows in
November. — As a proof of the mildness of the
autumn weather, we are able to gather Peas Ne
Plus Ultra in November, and also Vegetable
Marrows in a young state, not old and hard as
they are when matured. I have, twice in thirty
years, had the experience of growing Pea Ne Plus
Ultra in freshly broken land with great success,
and in old vegetable quarters, where the soil
was full of humus, without real success. In the
latter case the seeds rotted in the soil, in both
high and low positions, to a big percentage. In
the new soil all seeds germinated and the plants
flourished. Those that did grow in the old garden
loam lacked vigour. The seeds were not faulty.
The Marrow plants were raised late in the
summer, and have fruited well very late.
— G. Garner.
Apple Trees in Bloom in uciober. —
I have recently gathered some ripe Apples
off a young tree which is bearing young
(ruits about the size of small Walnuts,
and trusses of flowers of the most lovely
deep colour. In its proper season this
variety bears very large, beautiful flowers,
but I have not seen larger blossoms than
the ones open on October 28, nor richer
in colour. There are also flowers on oth"r
trees. — G. G.
Salvia Fireball. — This brUliant scarlet
Salvia has made such a brave show here
this past season that I cannot refrain
from penning a line in its favour. The
plants were raised from seed sovm in the
first week of February, and were in due
course potted ofi into 3-inch pots and
hardened off along with other bedding
plants. In the last week of May they
were planted out in a border filled chiefly
with half-hardy annuals. For the first
week or two the plants made little
progress, but by the middle of July
they were flowering freely, and from
that time up till the date on which
I am writing (October 19) they have
made a dazzling show. I have taken
a batch of cuttings, and hope, during
the next season, to make a com-
parison between plants raised from
cuttings and those raised from seed,
plants have attained a height of 18
or more on deeply cultivated ground. —
Charles Comfort, Davidson's Mains, N.B.
Recipe for Medlar Jelly.— In The Garden for
last week Mr. Molyneux gives us a recipe for
Qiince jelly. Another fruit, which is generally
wasted, but which makes a most delicious jelly,
is the Medlar. Well-made Medlar jelly is in
flavour like the best Guava jelly, and quite its
equal as a preserve. The fruits should be fully
ripe, in the same condition as when used for
dessert. Prepare the fruits and boil them with
enough cold water to cover them, and to every
two dozen Medlars allow the thin rind and strained
juice of half a Lemon. Boil well, and strain
^iiithmU any pressure then put the juice in the
pan with its weight of sugar, and add more strained
Lemon juice in the proportion of one Lemon to
every fifty Medlars. Boil and keep skimmed.
The jelly should be quite clear, but if the least
sediment is put in, it will fail in this respect. Time,
about an hour and a-half to boil, but it varies.
Great care should be taken that it does not burn. —
C. B.
Mistletoe Growing on Ampelopsis Veitchii. —
This parasite grows on many more kinds of trees
than is generally supposed, but I have never seen
or heard of it being found growing on Ampe-
lopsis Veitchii before. When at Rood Ashton,
near Trowbridge, in the early part of October,
I saw a fine plant growing on this Ampelopsis.
The mansion is covered with the climber, and
near the top, on the south side, is a fijie plant of
Mistletoe, sufficiently large to be seen at a long
distance. Mr. Strugnell, the gardener, chronicled
the incident in one of the gardening journals
early in the year. When we were looking at it,
he remarked that it had made considerable growth
this season. Naturally, many may ask how
this could have got into such a position. Un-
WILD BELLADONNA LILIES THAT WERE GATHERED IN
SOUTH AFRICA.
five of a certain point. The planting-time given
was meant to refer to bedding Tulips only. It
is quite possible that these (bcdders) might be
benefited by earlier planting than October or
November, but it would be obviously rmwise to
advise people to plant bedding Tulips at a time
when, in the average season, their beds would still
be bright with summer plants. My owni practice
in planting several acres of Darwin and other late-
flowering Tulips is to begin as soon as the Daffodils
are in, which is generally about the first or second
week in September. This year we began a little
later, September 22, and finished on October 9,
and I intend to stick to this until experience
teaches me that later planting is better for the
crop of flowers and bulbs. Up to the present
I am fully satisfied that early planting is better
than late. If " Observer " will refer to our
catalogue next year, I hope he will find the advice
given as to the time of planting so clear that no
one can mistake the meaning of it. —
J. Duncan Pearson (of the firm of J. R.
Pearson and Sons), Lowdham, Notts.
Habitat of Amaryllis Belladonna. — I
noticed that you mentioned in your issue
of October 17 the flowering of the Bella-
donna Lily at Kew and in Ireland this
year, and your correspondent Mr. Bryan
states that this plant is supposed to come
from the West Indies, and to have been
introduced to South Africa from there, as
it has never been found growing wild in
South Africa. I am sure he is mistaken
in thinking that it has never been found
growing natiirally in South Africa. It is
certainly indigenous on the mountains of
the Cape Peninsula. I have found it
growing there in great quantities, and
enclose a photograph showing a cluster of
these flowers which had just been gathered
on the adjoining hillside. — Percy A.
MOLTENO.
• Your correspondent Mr. Samuel
Bryan, on page 502, says that " all
botanists agree that Amar3Mlis Belladonna
was introduced into the British Isles from
the West Indies in I7r2, and it is very
probable it was brought from England
to the Cape of Good Hope, but we have no
authentic information as to its ever being
found growing naturally there." The
term " all botanists " is too sweeping
an assertion, for in the " Kew Hand
The
inches
List of Tender Monocotyledons " it is
doubtedly from some bird carrying the berries 1 stated to be a native of South Africa. Surely
from bushes on trees near by in the park. Some Kew contains some botanists worthy of being
fifty years ago, when a youth in these gardens,
I well remember how abundantly Mistletoe could
be seen in the fine old Limes and Thorns in the
park. I have not seen them so fine anywhere
since. I noticed that several of the Thorns where
it grew best had gone, and some Limes had
been cut down. — John Crook.
When to Plant Tulips. — " Observer," writing
in The Garden fur October 31, p?ge 528, thinks
he has caught me tripping, and in a way I confess
that my advice given on this subject in your
columns a few weeks since and the ad\-ice given
in our bulb catalogue may seem at variance,
owing to the wording of the same, which I admit
to be faulty, and am grateful for having it pointed
out. On the other hand, if "Observer" will
look again at the page he quotes, he will sec that
the heading is for bedding Tulips, and the little
bit about home-grown Darwins was only illustra-
included in the expression " all." — H. P.
Finger and Toe Disease in Green Crops. — The
article by " A. E. B." in your issue of October 24,
page 519, should be helpful to all who have to
contend with this foe. In addition to the remedy
given, 1 may add that, having to deal with
soil where this is very troublesome, I have
found several things helpful to check the pest.
For many years I was quite in the dark as to the
cause (which is of the first importance in dealing
with all diseases, &c.). Having realised its nature,
the question of a remedy arose. I have come to
the conclusion that where green crops have to be
frequently planted on the same soil, trenching the
land every two years 2 feet deep and planting the
same season as this is done is one of the best methods
to keep it down, and in time I believe would
eradicate it out of the soil. About two years ago,
when at Sutton Place, near Guildford, while going
J November 14, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
553
through the kitchen garden with Mr. Goatley, he
told me that when he took charge there this
disease was most troublesome, but by continually
trenching the land he rarely saw a clubbed
plant. Although a dry summer I could not see
one. About four years ago, on some land I work
I had a portion trenched 2 feet deep. On this
all sorts of the Cabbage family were so%vn, and I
did not see an infected plant that season. —
J. Crook.
Roses and Mildew. — Although I am afraid
" Somerset " might as well ask for Roses immune
from attacks of green fly as from mildew, I am
sure some varieties are more prone to the mildew
trouble than others. In the Rose notes which
are published in The Garden from time to time
it is frequently mentioned that most Roses with
dark green, leathery foliage are very free from
mildew. My own experience bears this out,
and Mme. Ravary, Le Progres, Mrs. David McKee,
Prince de Bulgarie and Mme. Melanie Soupert
are with me quite satisfactory. Although their
foliage is not so smooth and thick, the following
are also very free from mildew : Mme. Abel
Chatenay, Caroline Testout, La Tosca and Frau
Karl Druschki. — Cheshire.
I have read lately with interest some
letters in The Garden about mildew on Roses
and the apparent difficulty of dealing with this
plague. I sympathise with the gentleman who
does not want to spray his Roses once a
week all through the season. But what is to be
done to large climbing Roses — Marechal Niel,
R6ve d'Or and Celine Forestier ? The latter
began it in the early spring, and was so bad that
it had to be removed. These were on the south
side of the house. On the north side Gloire de
Dijon was barely touched by it. The ramblers
all had it badly, and Tausendschon was the worst
of the lot. Of the bush Roses Lady Ashtown
was the worst, Mrs. David Jardine next, then
Laurette Messimy, then Mme. Ravary, then La
Tosca, then Pharisaer. General Macarthur and
Comtesse du Cayla were practically imtouched,
and Perle d'Or absolutely untouched (twelve of
them). William Allen Richardson and a Yellow
Banksian are also untouched. Caroline Testout
in standard fonn was ruined. — C. Ambrose,
Brookwood, Surrey.
Lieutenant Chaure is a red Rose which,
I venture to predict, will soon be in every Rose
garden. We are badly off for red Roses of the
Hybrid Tea class, and one that has all the excelle'nt
characteristics of Lieutenant Chaure cannot for
long be neglected. Your correspondent " Somer-
set " asks for names of Roses which are mildew-
proof. I will not go so far as to claim that
Lieutenant Chaure is " proof," but in a year when
Roses have been badly attacked in most gardens
by mildew and black spot, it has, in my garden,
been practically free from both diseases. For
the information of those who have not got this
Rose, I may add that it was sent out by M. Pemet-
Ducher in igro. Its reputed parentage is Etoile
de France x Liberty, which is not calculated to
impress one with its hereditary virtues ! It has
not, however, the faults of either parent. While
not being particularly full, as exhibitors count
fulness, it can be grown right up to exhibition
form. Its stout, deep petals stand well, and
the Rose when cut seems to last longer than many
Roses of greater substance. It opens well in
all weathers — a trait it certainly does not inherit
from Etoile de France — flowers very freely and
continuously, and has a delightful fragrance.
In Mr. Mawley's special audit of twenty newer
Hybrid Teas, given in this year's " Rose Annual,"
it only came out nineteenth in the voting. This is
surely too low a place. I have found it a better
and more reliable Rose than either Edward Mawley
or Leslie Holland. The colour may be described
as a velvety crimson red, which, I think, it retains
longer than most reds. Its growth is strong,
even and compact, which makes it an admirable
Rose for bedding purposes. — Charles H, Rigg,
The Grey House, St. Mary Church, South Devon.
[We quite agree with our correspondent in his
praise of Lieutenant Chaure. We have found it
an excellent Rose. — Ed.]
— ■ — I am glad to note " Somerset's " few
words upon this on page 528, issue October 31.
A good many Roses are claimed as mildew-proof ;
but while a large number are little affected by
this disease, unless in exceptionally uncongenial
conditions of weather and extremes of tempera-
ture, I fear we cannot claim absolute exemption.
From many years' observation I find the first
few named below the freest of any : Duke of
Wellington (it is curious that Fisher Holmes,
in many other respects similar to Duke of Welling-
ton, should be so subject to this disease), Ulrich
Brunner, Arthur R. Goodwin and its grand yellow
sport J. F. Barry are quite free here. Mme.
Ravary, notwithstanding its beautiful soft and
bronzy foliage, is remarkably free both in town
and country. Melody, Mrs. Comwallis West,
Rayon d'Or, W. E. Lippiatt and Mme. Constant
Soupert are very seldom touched. I also find
Boule de Neige, Coquette des Blanches and Perle
des Neiges beautifully free tmong the pure
whites. The freest among our climbers are
Felicite Perpetue and the three wichuraianas
Alberic Barbier, Gardenia and Jersey Beauty.
That grand all-round climber and pillar Rose
American Pillar is as free as anything here. A
good climber seldom touched is found in Excelsa.
A few others scarcely ever mildewing with me are
Alfred Colomb, Duke of Edinburgh, Captain
Christy, Hon. Ina Bingham, La Tosca, Mrs.
Alfred Tate, Mrs. Amy Hammond, Mrs. David
McKee, Mrs. Frank Workman, Mrs. Theodore
Roosevelt and Zephyrinc Drouhin. Most of the
Penzance Briars, especially the beautiful Lady
Penzance, are free ; also the Scotch Briars and
Rugosas. Among the continuous-flowering Dwarf
Polyanthas, too, there is very little mildew, if we
except Mme. N. Levavasseur, which I have found
very bad in most seasons. — A. P., Uckfield.
Francoas as Hardy Plants. — For the last
two or three years we have utilised Francoas
for garden decoration in the open air, retaining
them in the ground during the winter without
any protection. The site is a sunny one, but
open and windswept, and the soil is loam resting
upon heavy clay, hardly the ideal for Francoas in
the winter according to general ideas ; but my
experience of them has been so good that I would
urge garden-lovers to give the Francoas a trial
in the open garden. The forms used have been
Francoa ramosa (the charming white-flowered
Bridal Wreath), F. appendieulata and F. sonchi-
folia, the pinkish forms, which seem to be equally
hardy. Out in the open the mounds of foliage
are very compact and close to the ground, and
the wealth of blossom is immense, giving a con-
tinuous display of the dainty flower-spikes.
Exactly how much frost they will stand I cannot
say, but I remember a bed of F. sonchlfolia coming
safely through the last severe winter experienced
in the South of England. — P. S. Hayward.
TEMPORARY WIND
SCREENS IN GARDENS.
IN many gardens, and particularly those
near the East and South-East coasts, it
is impossible to grow a number of plants
successfully unless a screen of some kind
is provided to break the force of the keen,
biting winds of winter and early spring.
These winds, if allowed to ravish an exposed
garden unchecked, often do far more harm than
the severest frost, and this is particularly notice-
able during the early months of the year, when a
brief spell of mild weather induces buds to sprout
prematurely. In gardens which have been estab-
lished for some years, and where it is known that
dangerous winds prevail in certain quarters,
a permanent screen in the form of a belt of Scotch
Pines, or a thick hedge of Yew or Berberis, will
have been planted ; but even in such instances
temporary screens such as I have in mind are
most useful for protecting beds or groups of plants
at those times when they are most susceptible
to injury. In these situations a permanent
screen would not be permissible, inasmuch as it
would not be required for more than a few weeks
of the year, and during the remainder of the time
would be quite out of place, if not an actual eyesore.
Daffodils, Tulips, particularly those of the Cottage
and Darwin sections, early flowering shrubs,
such as Magnolia stellata, and choice fruit trees
are plants that occur to mind as needing temporary
shelter of the kind mentioned.
Although there are several proprietary articles
that answer very well as temporary wind screens,
those who live in the country may well utilise
the material that Nature in most districts provides
so lavishly. In modem gardening, as in most
other things, there is too great a tendency to
ignore natural material, and to rely upon that
which is manufactured. The latter may answer
the purpose for which it is intended very well,
but it never appears so much in keeping with
natural subjects as the protective material that
can be had for the culling from our hedge-
rows, commons and copses. The most serviceable
natural wind screens for garden purposes that
I have seen tcok the form of withy hureUes, the
Hazel and Willow withes being cleverly plaited
so that when finished each hurdle was about
three feet high and five feet long. These screens
would last in good condition several years, but
in a small garden the storing of them during the
summer and autumn months proved somewhat
embarrassing. A stout stake thrust well into the
soil on either side of the hureile, and at each end,
held it firmly in position when required for shelter.
Of a more temporary character were screens
of dry Bracken gathered from a copse near by.
This was made into screens of about the same
size as the withy hurdles by running stout branch-
ing sticks along either side of the Bracken and
lashing them tightly together with stout tarred
string or Cccoanut fibre rope. A long, pointed
stick of some hard wood, with a large eye near
the point similar to a sewing-machine needle,
was used for pushing the string through the
Bracken, so that the sticks on one side of the
screen were firmly tied to those on the other.
It is surprising how quickly a couple of labourers
who are used to hedging work will make a number
of these screens, which will last good a whole
winter and spring, and which can be used for
farm as well as garden purposes should the necessity
554
THE GARDEN.
[November 14, 1914-
for doing so arise. Tlie screens
could, of course, be made any size
tfiat is required, but it is not
often that any of a larger size
than that named are needed,
though some smaller are useful.
Where Bracken is not obtainable,
there is usually an abundance of
other material to hand. Heather
or Ling answers well, and long grass
such as is trimmed from the sides
of hedgerows may also be requisi-
tioned, though there is in this case
a danger of weed seeds being dis-
tributed over the garden. Gorse
and Yew branches make excellent
wind screens, and although the first-
named must be boimd together as
advised for the Bracken, the Yew
branches can, if necessary, be used
separately, one or two thrust well
into the soil on the windward side
of some choice plant providing a
screen that is at once effective and
natural in appearance. Branches of
Scotch Pine, Berberis Aquifolium,
or, indeed, those of any evergreen
that is present in sufficient quantity,
may be utUised in like manner. In
the seed-growing districts of Essex
the hard, wood-like stalks of CaiTots
that have been grown for seed are
used largely for making screens for
agricultural purposes, • these being
lashed together with sticks similar
to the screens of Bracken. They
are hard and last a long time if
kept straight and tightly tied, and
would be equally as valuable in the
garden as on the farm. No doubt
in various counties there are other
kinds of material that could with
a little ingenuity be utilised for
temporary wind screens, the use of which may mean
the difference between seared and blackened foliage
and healthy, free-blossoming plants. Attention
is drawn to these screens now while the material
is available. The making of such protections
from wind provides work for the men at a time
when little else can be done. B. G.
A BORDER OF MIXED FLOWERS AND SHRUBS.
FOR PLANTING.
NEW HERBACEOUS
BORDERS.
HOW
w
plans
TO MAKE AND PLANT.
HILE we have fresh in our minds the
different herbaceous borders as they
have appeared during the past sum-
mer months, we should make our
for the construction of new ones. This
SHOWING ONE METHOD OF PLANTING HE
AND BULBOUS FLOWERS.
refers to cultivators who do not possess such
borders and to those who do possess them but
wish to make new ones or renovate existing borders.
The preparation of the soil, the selection of plants
and their disposition in the borders are the three
principal points that the cultivator must pay
the closest attention to when engaged in making
the new borders.
Positions for the Borders. — Ideal ones are not
available in every garden, and so the most must be
made of the best ones. The following positions
are good ones, namely, {a) in front of a wall
facing south, south-west and south-east ; (6) on
one or both sides of a garden path runnmg north
and south or east and west ; (c) in front of a
gently winding shrubbery.
Positions that are Unsuitable. — (a) Under
rows of fruit trees in the vegetable garden, but
suitable if the
trees are far
enough back
from the path
in the case of
bush and
pyramid-shaped
trees. Espalier-
trained fruit
trees, distant
from 8 feet to
12 feet from the
path, form a
good back-
ground to herbaceous borders. (6)
Under large deciduous and ever-
green trees growing near the edges
of shrubberies, as not only do their
roots rob those of the herbaceous
plants, but their branches also
prove inimical to their welfare, (c)
In very shallow, poor soils, situated
also on high ground. If there are
no means of deepening and enrich-
ing such soils, the plants fail whole-
sale after the month of June.
How to Prepare the Soil. — The
present is a good time for the
trenching of the soil, so as to have
it in fit condition for the plants
in the course of a week or two.
Whether broad or narrow, the
borders should be trenched by
commencing the work at one end
and finishing at the other. A trench
must be opened and the sou wheeled
to the other end for filling up at the
finish. Dig the soil at least 2 feet
deep, but keep the subsoil below,
breaking it up thoroughly. Use
good manure, partly rotted, and
well mix it with the soil just below
the surface and not deep do^vn,
as the plants could benefit little if
it were thus placed, the nutriment
being washed down out of the
reach of their roots.
How to Plant.— This and the
arrangement of the plants are two
items of great importance, as the
work should be done so as to
provide an unbroken supply of
blossom during the greater part
of the year. There are two ways
of marking out a border for the
plants, as shown in Figs. A and B,
respectively. In every instance the
tallest-growing kinds of plants must be allotted
the back portion, the medium the centre, and
the dwarf the front. There will never be a uniform
height that will make all plants have a stiff
appearance, as some will always vary in strength
and height. Fig. A shows at No. i the back part
marked out formally for clumps of such plants as
Michaelmas Daisies, Delphiniums, &c. ; No. 2,
large clumps of Phlox ; No. 3. bulbous plants in
clumps, such as Gladioli ; No. 4, the smallest
growers, such as Alyssums, Anemones, Armerias,
Arabis and dwarf Campanulas ; No, 5, Veronicas and
the medium kinds of Aster, such as A. acris, A.
Amellus, &c. A bed of this kind would have a bold
appearance when the plants in it were established.
Fig. B shows a bed which would be filled with
much less formality — smaller clumps and greater
mixture. The dotted lines drawn through the
NOW IS THE TIME
RBACEOUS
A LESS FORMAL METHOD OF PLANTING.
TEXT.
FOR DETAILS SEE
November 14, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
555
bed shuw, however, how the cultivator must
arrange the plants, namely, No. i, dwarf ; No. 2,
the taller of the accepted dwarf kinds ; No. 3,
those of medium height ; and No. 4, the tallest.
If these all overlap a little, as shown, the general
effect is quite charming. G. G.
FRUIT NOTES FOR
NOVEMBER.
THE GLORY OF THE SNOW.
Among those bulbous flowers of lowly stature
which open early in the spring and remind us that
winter, with its gloom and fog, will soon be a
thing of the past, there is none that receives
more universal admiration than the charming
little Glory of the Snow. Its popular name,
unlike many, is an expressive one, for frequently
in its native haunts, and occasionally in this
country, the dainty little bell-shaped, pale blue
and white blossoms may be seen above a foil
of driven snow, which enhances their beauty
in no small degree. Boasting the rather long '
and sonorous botanical name of Chionodoxa
Luciliae, this little plant has been known in our
gardens for many years, yet it does not appear
to be grown on an extensive scale, except in a
few gardens where more or less rare plants are
appreciated. It usually blossoms early in March,
when the Snowdrops are waning, and is never
so happy as when planted among deciduous
shrubs, where it will multiply and in a few years
form a veritable carpet of blue. There is a very
large-flowered variety of it that appeals to many,
and which is known as either grandiflora or gigantea.
The blossoms of this are frequently ij inches
across, and somewhat paler in colour than those
of the type. The most pleasing variety of all
to me, however, is the beautiful little sardensis,
the original bulbs of which, I believe, were found
near the ruins of the ancient to^vn of Sardis.
The blossoms of this, though smaller than those
of Luciliae, are of an intense gentian blue, and
when massed together create a picture of rare
beauty. In a narrow south border, which is all
the space I can give them at present, the plants
of this variety seed freely, and hosts of young
plants are produced naturally from the seeds.
There are several pink and white varieties of the
Glory of the Snow, but these do not appeal to me
in the least ; they are washed-out imitations
of the wild plant and are not nearly so pleasing.
Fortunately, the Chionodoxas are not particular
as to the soil in which they are planted, but they
rarely give their best flowers the first year after
planting. H.
Cordon Gooseberries. — In practically all small
gardens there is a north wall or fence from which
the amateur fails to secure a profitable return ;
he does not find many climbers that will thrive
satisfactorily in such a position, and the consequence
is that in the majority of instances the space is
occupied by a plant that is neither really beautiful
nor substantially useful. It is for such an aspect
as this that cordon Gooseberries can be most
strongly recommended, since it is certain that,
given intelligent management, they will carry
splendid crops of fruit later than can be ensured
from the bushes growing in the open, and as
they are from a previously unprofitable situation
they should be specially welcome. Two year old
plants ought to be procured from one of the reliable
fruit nurserymen advertising in The Garden, and
proportion of available food, of which the trees will
have the advantage. It is far better, in my
opinion, to dig above the roots, even though a few
dozens may be broken, than to allow the weeds
to remain and the surface to become so hard that
it is impervious alike to air and water.
Planting Raspberries. — October is without
doubt the ideal time for planting new Raspberry
plantations, but it is comparatively seldom that it
is possible, in the pressure of much work in that
month, to accomplish the task, and it must, there-
fore, be done as soon afterwards as can be made
convenient. It is impossible to cultivate the soil
too deeply or thoroughly, and in its preparation,
if a mixture of half-rotted leaves and manure in
equal proportions can be provided, it will prove
more advantageous than manure alone. Imme-
diately after the canes are in position, the stems
should be cut down to within 6 inches or 8 inches
of the ground, with a view to allowing the plants
to beconie perfectly established at the roots before
APPLE LANE'S PRINCE ALBERT.
It would be difficult to name a better all-round
Apple for a small garden than this. It is one of
the most regular croppers that we know, and, owing
to its rather straggling habit, is best grown as
a bush tree grafted or budded on Paradise stock,
as shown in the accompanying illustration. The
fruits attain a good size and are green, slightly
striped with red, the green changing to a pleasing
shade of yellow as they ripen. They are in season
from November till March, and, though un-
doubtedly a culinary variety, are not at all bad for
dessert in January and February, Lane's Prince
Albert was first discovered growing in a garden
at Berkhamsted, Herts, and was introduced to
commerce by Messrs. Lane and Sons in 1857.
Those who are thinking of planting Apples this
autumn should certainly include this variety.
BUSH TREE OF APPLE LANE S PRINCE ALBERT. THIS IS AN EXCELLENT VARIETY
FOR SMALL GARDENS.
planting should be done as quickly as possible.
Prepare the soil by deep and thorough digging,
incorporate some rotted manure in the second
spit, and it will not be long before a return for the
small outlay is being reaped. If the wall is of
brick, the grower must be most particularly
observant that the soil about the roots never
becomes as dry as dust.
Digging Among Roots. — To suggest this will
sound like heresy in the ears of many cultivators,
who fear that to damage a single root on any of
their Apple or Pear trees will mean instant death.
But is this really so ? Most assuredly it is not.
Provided that proper care is taken and the blade
of the spade or the tines of the fork are not driven
in so deeply as to do serious injury to the roots,
nothing other than good will result from the
practice. Not only are water and air encouraged
to enter more freely, but the weeds that are almost
sure to be present can be easily and efficiently
buried, and in rotting down they will yield a
they are called upon to bear the strain of cropping ;
this precludes the possibility of any fruit in the
first season, but it pays admirably in the long run.
Wall Trees. — It is steadily becoming more
general to find a few trees on the walls of smalt
gardens, for the simple reason that amateurs have-
learned that with a little care not only can the waif
be attractively furnished with fruit trees, but that
these will bear a welcome burden practically
every season. At this juncture the grower must
concern himself with the roots as well as with
the pruning of the branches. As soon as this-
latter work is done, the soil above the roots should
be loosened with a fork and have a good covering;
of manure. As it is quite probable that the soil
at the foot of the wall will be dry, it is always
wise to make certain on the point before manuring
and to apply two or three soakings of clear v,ater
if necessary ; and if the trees are on the old and'
weak side it will be beneficial to give hea-vy applica-
tions of liquid manure. Fruit-grower.
556
THE GARDEN.
[November 14, 10)14.
IN A HAMPSHIRE GARDEN.
SOME OF THE NEWER DECORA-
TIVE ROSES.
{Continued from page 541.)
IT is only a year or so ago that I remember
writing to a friend " there are only two
yellow decorative Roses worthy of the
name, and thev are Mme. Ravary and
Souv. de Pierre Notting," and even these
I had to qualify. The position is very-
different to-day, and we have now quite a lengthy
list of Roses of a yellow shade that are really good
yellow decorative sorts. Last week I dealt
with four of them — Melody, Mme. C. Lutaud,
Mrs. Ambrose Ricardo and Lady Hillingdon —
all of them quite distinct, each with
its own particular merit ; and this
week I will deal with four more, still
keeping to the yellow shade of
colo.ur. Probably the most popular
in future years will be
Queen Mary, sent out in rgrs by
Messrs. A. Dickson and Sons of
Newtownards. It is truly a " thing
of beauty." I do not know of any
Rose that I remember to have
gro%vn which has created more of
what I must call a sensation, for
want of a better word, in the eyes
of those who were looking at it for
the first time. There is something
about its colour that is so charming
that an exclamation springs to the
lips, be they Rose enthusiasts or
otherwise. To attempt to describe
this charm on paper is an impossible
task. Even those past-masters in
the art, its raisers, fail, and where
they do so, how can I hope to
succeed. They call it bright canary
yellow crayoned with pure deep
carmine, and they go on to say that
the colours do not commingle. A
crayon is a pencil, and its markings
are certainly distinct ar.d do ni%
mix like those laid on with a brush ;
but there is, as a rule, a hardness
about a pencil mark that is missing
from the colour scheme of Queen
Mary, and so I must give it up,
and content myself with saying
truly and literally " indescribably
beautiful."
Queen Mary belongs to the
dwarf section of bedding Roses.
The growth is medium rather
than vigorous, yet it is shapelv
enough, and the term " medium "
carries with it in this case
no disparagement. It is, I kiiow, frequently
■used by nurserymen when they wish to describe
a Rose of bad growth, but there is nothing bad
in this case. The Rose simply puts all its
strength into its flowers, and it does not, therefore,
make a big bush. It forms seed-pods very freely,
and these must not be allowed to remain ; but
the flowers, if they are not cut as buds or half-
opened blooms, should be cut as soon as they
are past their best, to enable the plant to make
that fresh growth which is essential if you are to
have continuity of flower. The position is
fairly summed up by a Professor friend of mine,
whom I heard remark that he was not going to
order any new Roses this year, but he must have
Queen Mary. As he planted several hundreds last
year, there was some excuse for the first portion of
his remark, and if there are any of your readers who
are similarly situated, I hope they will follow his
example and change their minds. We must all
fill up vacant spaces in our gardens, and no hardy
plants can touch a Rose plant for this purpose.
Southampton. Herbert E. Molvxeu.x.
(To be continued.)
ROSES IN A GARDEN
SURBITON HILL.
ON
What a host of liappy memories the photograph
of a garden of Roses on Surbiton Hill, on
ROSE GLOIRE DE DIJON AND CLEMATISES ON A PERGOLA
page 495, October
■ — for I grew up i
full of Roses there,
of " colour schemes
" Specs it growed,"
ro issue, awakened in me !
n an old-fashioned garden
Dear old garden ! innocent
' or cunningly devi;ed plan,
like Topsy ; indeed, I know
it did, from a paddock, gradually turned into a
garden, where flowers and fruit trees, Roses
and vegetables were all mixed up together in a
manner which would horrify modern gardeners.
Antirrliinums jostled Jerusalem Artichokes. Such
Antirrhinums ! Not the poor, dumpy dwarfs
nor the sickly, spindly spires one sees no^\^ but
great jolly bushes a yard in diameter. They
lived year after year in that sunny, sheltered
garden and yielded a wealth of blossom from
early summer till close on Christmas. There,
too — long before bulbs were " nattiralised " in
grass — for cltildish fun and fancy I planted
" fairy rings " of white Crocus round the boles
of the trees on the lawns.
But I set out to tell of the Roses, wliirh were
the leading feature of that old garden. My
mother was a Rose-lover, and very skilful in
budding the standards, which were the fashion
then. She got scions of new varieties e%-ery
season for the row of Briars always in readiness
to receive tliem. .\mong the then " new " Roses
was Baroness Rothschild, soon discarded in
disgust when found to be scentless. That is the
first scentless Rose I can remember. The tennis
lawn was bordered by beds of Roses, among wliich
Mint would insist on growing,
though it sulked and died in the
herb-bed. Particularly I call to
mind two immense standards of
-Aiiuee Vibert, which in the summer
looked like gigantic wedding
bouquets and flowered again in the
autumn till the end of the year, and
a tall bush of Souvenir de Mal-
maison, with its beautiful buds, in
the autumn. Bushes, too, there
were of Scotch Briars with their wee
white buds and dainty, though
thorny, foliage. Beside them
flourished a large Myrtle, whose
flowers were in great request for
summer weddings. When thunder-
storms threatened, my mother
would bid me " run and get the
Roses before it rains," and I quickly
cut hundreds, gathering them up in
the front of my frock (we did not
wear hobble skirts in those days).
By the drawing-room window was
a climbing Cabbage Rose, always
in flower on Derby Day, and at
the back of the house a pale pink,
sweet-scented cluster Rose chnibed
to the first-floor windows. I never
Ivnew its name.
In the kitchen garden were two
ancient Rose trees, literally trees.
They were about ten feet high. One
had blackish crimson blooms, with
the scent of attar of roses. The
•ither was more hke Mme. Resal or
Leonie Lamesch, a shell pink, loose-
petalled Rose with smooth, shiny
foliage (the children called it the
" French Bonnet " Rose, as it was
like the artificial Roses in our
mothers' best bonnets), a type of
Rose not well known nor esteemed
tlien. In that old garden every
year I had a hedge of my dearly loved Sweet Peas,
not then deprived of form and fragrance by Fashion.
They grew only 4 feet to 5 feet high, and flowered
from the ground upwards, a glorious mass of
mingled rainbow hues, especially when the sun
was setting behind the water towers.
At the Jubilee Ball at the Guildhall. London,
in 1887, many folks were more finely arrayed
than your Anne, but none wore lovelier Roses — a
long garland a-down my green gown of some
fifty creamy buds of De\oniensis, given me
by old Mr. John Burrup of Surbiton Hill, who
was the leading amateur Rose-grower there
at that time. His garden in June was a floral
feast. Anne Am.^teur.
IJOVEMBER 14, I914.]
THE GARDEN.
557
iPLANTS FOR DRY
SAND*' SOIL.
OR
IN a great many gardens, and particularly
those attached to modern residences, where
owner and architect rightly insist on a
gravel subsoil, the ground is by no means
ideal for gardening, and unless care is
exercised in selecting the plants, partial
•or total failure is likely to ensue. It is true that
even the most sandy soil can, by good cultivation,
■which includes bounteous dressings with cow-
.manure, be rendered comparatively fertile, and,
■with the addition of stiff loam to the beds in the
more prominent situations, these can be made
good enough even for the clay-loving Roses. But
such a revolution as the last-named process must,
of necessity, be limited ; it is exceedingly costly,
.and in the greater part of the garden
the best must be made of the
natural soil. Fortunately there are
many plants which seem quite happy
in sandy or gravelly situations, and
these embrace those of annual
■duration, herbaceous perennials and
shrubs, so that with judicious care
the whole of the garden can be
made beautiful and interesting.
Among annual flowers there are
.many to select from. Perhaps the
best known of all is the common
Tropfflolum or so-called Nasturtium,
a plant that is too often neglected,
possibly because it is so easy to
grow. It is ideal for sandy soil,
where it will flower profusely and
impart quite a tropical appearance
to the garden. Sow it in rich
soil and it will produce enormous
leaves in abundance, but very
few flowers. It can be had in
separate colours, and is a good
and useful plant for the poorest
soil. An annual flower, and a
beautiful one withal, that is
seldom seen, but which will thrive
in the hottest and driest position
we can give it, is the Purslane
(Portulaca grandiflora). If seeds
are sown about the end of April,
the seedlings soon form a dense
carpet of fleshy green leaves,
which are later thickly studded
with brilliant - coloured flowers.
Eschscholtzias, though strictly
perennials, are usually grown as annuals. Their
thick, fleshy roots penetrate deeply in search of
moisture, and for that reason they are good for
the soil that we now have under notice. There
are a number of beautiful varieties to select from,
including some with rose-coloured and others with
brilhant orange flowers. The Snapdragon is
another perennial that is usually grown as an
annual and which will thrive well in poor soil,
particularly where lime is present. The many
bsautiful shades to be found among the modern
varieties are too well known to need further
comment. Indian Pinks, Early Paris Wall-
flower, Ten Week, Virginian and Night-
scented Stocks, Leptosiphon densiflorus hybridus,
Cornflowers, Silenes, Scarlet Flax and the
Namaqualand Daisies are other annual flowers that
we may successfully cultivate in our sandy soils.
When we come to herbaceous perennials, there
is a wide list to select from, and in an article of
this description it is impossible to do more than
draw attention to a few of the best. The Sea
Hollies or Eryngiums, Globe Thistles or Echinops,
perennial Sunflowers, Golden Rod, Gypsophila
paniculata. Pinks, Stachys lanata. Valerian, any
of the Houseleeks, Polygonums, ordinary Wall-
flowers, Alpine and Oriental Poppies, the red-
flowered Milfoil and Achillea Ptarmica The Pearl,
Sedimi spectabile, Gaillardias, Heucheras, German
Irises, Linum narbonense, perennial Lupines,
Lychnis chalcedonica, Malva moschata, Monarda
didyma. Catmint, Polemonium cseruleum, Poten-
tillas, and Rudbeckias or Coneflowers are all good
for the purpose.
Among shrubs, ovn: choice of suitable kinds is
more restricted, but there are a good many which
can be successfully cultivated. Of these, the double-
flowered Gorse must take a foremost position.
CULTIVATION AND COL-
LECTION OF MEDICINAL
PLANTS IN ENGLAND.
[The following has been recently published as
Leaflet No. 288 by the Board of Agriculture.]
BELLADONNA (ATROPA BELLADONNA, L.).
(Continued from page 549.)
Prices. — Only a little Belladonna root is dug
in England, the large supplies used being derived
from the Continent. The Balkan War of 1912-13
interfered with the continuity of Belladonna ex-
ports from Croatia and Slavonia in South Hungary,
the chief centres for foreign Belladonna. Stocks
of roots and leaves made shorter supplies eke out
until 1914, when prices rose owing to increasing
scarcity. Root which realised 45s. per cwt. in
A COLONY Of SUN ROSES OK HELIANTHEMUMS. THESE ARE E-KCELLENT FOR DRY, SANDY SOILS.
Once established, it seems to defy even the most
tropical weather, and the poorer the soil the better
it appears to flower. Then there is a wide range
among the Cytisus or Broom family, some of which
are the most beautiful of our hardy flowering
shrubs : Cytisus scoparius andreanus, C. sulphurea
and C. praecox are three of the best, though there
are many others ; Berberises vulgaris, Aqui-
folium, stenophylla and Darwinii may also be
planted with a good prospect of success ; Cistuses,
Helianthemums or Sun Roses. Tamarisks,
Olearias, Hypericums, Genistas, Guelder Roses,
Mock Oranges, Dogwoods, Hollies, Forsythias,
Yews, Aucubas, Cotoneasters, the ornamental
Brambles and Lilacs. Of trees, the follow-
ing may be expected to do well in poor,
sandy soil : Robinias, Limes, Chestnuts, Syca-
mores, Cratasgus, Judas Tree, I'inus sylvestris
and Evergreen Oaks. S. X.
January, 1914, sold for 65s. in June, and on the
outbreak of war the price immediately rose to
lOos. per cwt., and before the end of August
150S. had been paid. Belladonna leaves from
abroad sell at normal times for 45s. to 50s. per
cwt., but at the end of August they were unobtam-
able at is. per lb.
Manuring. — Authorities differ on the question
of manuring. English growers manure little if
plants are strong. One authority fomid that
fertilisers tend to lower activity as judged by
alkaloidal content. With soil suited to the plant,
the effect of artificial manures on growth is often
small ; but if the soil is not already rich, the crop
may be increased severalfold by the use of farmyard
manure or a mixture of nitrate of soda, basic
slag and kainit.
In other experiments artificial fertilisers did
not materially alter the proportion of alkaloids
558
THE GARDEN.
[November 14. 1914-
in the green leaf, but in several cases the crop
was largely increased in weight. Unfortunately,
the results were partly vitiated by the death
of a large proportion of plants in the third year,
for some reason not definitely ascertained. A
French authority states that by using farmyard
manure the amoimt of alkaloids in dried leaves
of Belladonna gro%vn at Houdan. France, was
doubled, but this only raised the alkaloidal
content to the standard of English leaf. From
experimental plots an Austrian investigator
concluded that manuring increases the yield of the
crop b^■ weight. The results of these researches seem
to support the custom of Belladonna-growers to
manure if the soil is poor or the plants are weak.
Activity. — There appears to be no marked
variation in the amoimt of alkaloids in Belladonna
leaf and stem between June and September,
hence the time of collection is not important.
prubabh" pay well to grow Chamomile next year,
though the labour entailed in collecting English-
grown Chamomile is more than the price usually
obtained for the Belgian drug. English Chamomile
is worth about 3s. per lb., the very finest selling
at still higher prices.
Cultivation. — Chamomile prefers a dry, sandy
loam, but stiffish black loam gives the best crop
of flowers. The usual method of propagation
is from " sets," each old plant being divided in
March into ten or twelve portions, which are
planted in rows 2J feet apart, with a distance of
18 inches between the plants in the row. Chamo-
mile may also be grown from seed, but some of
the resulting plants will produce the less desirable
single flowers. Weeding is done by hand.
The flowers are picked in September, or earlier
if the season is dr\'. Collecting is done by women j
and children, pa\-ment being made by the pound ;
NEW AND RARE PLANTS,
A BEAUTIFUL NEW VARIETY OF THE BRITISH FERN POLYSTICHUM ANGULARE. (See lexl.
and the leaves may be gathered any time
before the armual portions of the plant begin
to fade.
In the English root seasonal variation in alka-
loidal content is said to be very small. Atmo-
spheric conditions appear to have a marked
influence, the highest percentage of alkaloid
being yielded in plants grown in sunny and dry
seasons.
CHAMOMILE (ANTUEMIS NOBILIS, L.).
Prospects. — The demand for Chamomile flowers,
though slowly decreasing, is a steady and con-
siderable one. Belgium is the chief grower, and
on the outbreak of war the price rose from 55s.
to 80s. per cwt. for fair average quality. By
the end of August 120s. was asked for last year's
Belgian flowers, best quality being 140s. per cwt.
The new Belgian crop due in September can
hardly have been fully collected, so that a demand
will exist for English Chamomile, which is normally
practically all used for distillation of oil. It will
(up to lid.). Rapid drj-ing is necessarj' if the
flowers are to retain their purity of colour, the
flowers being laid on canvas trays in a heated
drying closet. From 5lb. to 61b. of fresh flowers
yield rib. of dry flowers ; the yield of dry flowers
is about 4cwt. per acre. They are sorted and
graded according to colour. A fairly good product
would probably be secured if the flowers were
picked as they came in bright weather, which is
the best time for drving, this being done in the
open or in well-ventilated sheds in as thin layers
as possible.
{To be continued.)
PLANTING BULBS.
We would urge all our readers who are contem-
plating the planting of bulbs to get the work done
as soon .s possible. Although many kinds can be
successfully planted later, there is no doubt that
the best results are obtained from those consigned
to the earth earlier. Better biUbs are also obtain-
able pow than in a few weeks' time.
FIRST-CLASS CERTIFICATE.
Sophro-L3lia Felicia Fowler's variety. —
A small plant with a one-flowered scape of this
remarkable novelty was shown, the flower being,
of fine proportions and great solidity. The colour
is well-nigh unique, and may best be described-
as rich ruby crimson, the shade pervading the
whole of the flower. From J. Gumey Fowler,.
Esq., Tunbridge Wells.
AWARDS OF MERIT.
Odontoglossum Irene (O. thompsoniana x
O. Uro-Skinnen). — A plant having a well-flowered
raceme of this well-marked form was shown.
The body colour of the flower is glowing maroon
irregularly intersected and veined white, a slight
yellow crest acting as a signal spot. Shown by
Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Hay-
ward's Heath.
Cattleya Neleus var. Sunspot (C.
Iris X C. Ophir). — ^The rich golden
yellow of the widely winged sepals
and petals and purplish crimson lip
of this handsome variety, whUe
affording a fine contrast, are enhanced
in decorative value by the imposing
character of the variety. The plant
bore a three-flowered scape. E.xhibited
by Mr. F. Menteith Ogilvie. Oxford.
Cypripedium Nivana (C. Harefield
Hall X C. nitens). — There is much,
both in the imposing character of
the variety as a whole and the
handsome dorsal sepal in particular,
to suggest the influence of the
first-named parent. The pouch is
of bronzy 5-ellow hue, A vigorous
grower. Exhibited by Messrs.
Charlesworth and Co., Hayward's
Heath.
Cattleya Astron. — An award of
merit for this variety was con-
firmed. We were unable to locate
the plant. From Baron Bruno
Schroder, Englefield Green.
Polystichum angulare
divisilobum plumosum densum
superbum. — It is unfortunate that
a gloriously beautiful or handsome
plant should have such a millstone
about its neck as the above. In some
measure the names are descriptive, hence it would
be superfluous if we enlarged upon them (see
illustration). From Mr. Amos Perrj-, Enfield.
Lapageria alba delicata. — This would appear
to be a seedling variety between the rose and the
white coloured sorts, the pale flesh pink colouring
being beautiful in the extreme. Shown by Eliza-
beth Lady Lawrence, Burford. near Dorking.
Chrysanthemum Mrs. J. Gibson. — A large
exhibition Japanese variety having drooping
petals coloured pink and freckled with white.
Chrysanthemum Captain Fox. — .-V large ex-
hilntion Japanese variety of the reflcxed type. The
ciilnur is maroon crimson with pale golden reverse.
Chrysanthemum La Negresse. — A decorative
reflexed variet}- of rich crimson tone. The flower-
heads are well supported on short, sturdy pedimcles.
These three varieties were shown by Messrs. W.
Wells, Limited, Merstham, Redhill, Surrey.
The whole of the above-mentioned novelties were
shown before the Royal Horticultural Society on
the :5rd inst., when the awards were made.
»
November 14, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
559
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruit Under Glass.
Ripe Grapes. — vineries in which ripe Grapes
are hanging should be kept at a very even tempera-
ture and the atmosphere quite dry ; 45° is quite
high enough. As soon as the foliage drops, the
btmches may be cut and placed in the Grape-
room, where they will keep quite as well as if
left on the Vines. Very careful attention will
be necessary through the winter in order to keep
the berries from damping, and as soon as one
decaying berry is noticed, it must be removed.
Careful ventilation is of the greatest importance,
especially in damp, dull weather.
Plants Under Glass.
Ferns. — During dull winter weather these
plants should be frequently overhauled and all
decaying fronds removed. Give as much space
as possible between the plants in order to harden
and prepare them for house decoration in the
winter. A close, humid atmosphere must be
avoided. A little soot-water may be applied
in order to give colour to the fronds and rid the
pots of worms.
Crotons. — Examine these plants carefully, and
if mealy bug is present, some approved insecticide
should be applied to destroy it. All broad-
leaved varieties may be carefully sponged, but the
narrow and curly leaved varieties ought to be
cleaned by spraying, as it is diiBcult to use the sponge
effectually without injury to the foliage. These
should afterwards be syringed with clear soft water,
the plants being carefully placed on their sides
while this is being done. Crotons will benefit
by full exposure to the light throughout the
winter months.
The Foreing-HoUse.^Where cut flowers are
in demand at Christmas, preparations should
be made at once by placing a good number of
plants in gentle heat now and allowing them to
develop gradually. Narcissi in variety are among
the most useful ; but these require to be brought
along very carefully and without strong heat,
or many of them may fail to flower. Early
Tulips should also be brought on very steadily
and in subdued light. Water freely as soon as
the pots are well filled with roots. Lilacs are
always welcome, and are easily forced providing
they are not subjected to very strong heat at
first. These may be potted at once and placed
in heat as it becomes necessary to meet the demand
for cut flowers.
The Flower Garden.
Spring Bedding. — ^This should be finished
with as little delay as possible, so that the plants
may have time to make fresh roots before sharp
frost sets in. Beds which were planted early
■will benefit by hoeing. Keep them quite free
from decayed leaves, let the edgings be trimmed,
and keep the surrounding grass swept so that the
place may present a clean and tidy appearance.
Plants in Pits. — Hollyhocks, Pentstemons and
various plants in pits or frames which are intended
for spring planting should be freely ventilated
during mild weather. As soon as they are estab-
lished in the pits, the Ughts may be removed on
every favourable occasion. Pinch the tops of
the most forward plants in order to keep them
stocky.
Humea elegans. — ^These plants are quite safe
in a cold pit until frost sets in, when they ought
to be removed to some structure where frost
can be excluded. Water with great care during
the winter months. Under cool treatment very
little water will be necessary, but it should be
remembered that if once allowed to become too
dry at the roots, serious injury will be the result.
The Rock Garden.— it often happens that
the roots of some of the stronger-growing subjects
penetrate the space allotted to more tender,
shy-rooting plants. In such cases it is necessary
to remove such roots as far as possible, and replace
the soil which has become exhausted with new
material. While this work is being done, the
special proclivities of the various plants for certain
kinds of compost ought to be considered, and
separate mixtures, each containing its special item,
made up and applied as it becomes necessary.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Morello Cherries. — The pruning of these trees
should be taken in hand at once. Let the young
wood be judiciously tliinned and trained in the
same manner as a Peach tree, allowing at least
4 inches between the young fruiting branches.
In order to keep the trees well furnished with
fruiting wood, a number of the old branches
must be removed each year, and this is best
accomplished before the trees are removed from
the wall. When pruning is finished, the trees
should be carefully cleansed with some approved
insecticide. These trees are generally grown
on a north wall ; consequently the training
should be accomplished while mild weather lasts.
The Kitchen Garden.
Globe Artichokes. — Before shaip frost sets
in, some protection should be placed round the
stems of these plants, taking care to leave the
crowns open, or damping may set in. The ground
between the rows may then be forked up and
made to look tidy for the winter.
Asparagus-Beds should be divested of all
withered stems, and the surface lightly pricked
up in order to remove all young weeds and prepare
the beds for a top-dressing of decayed farmyard
manure. The alleys ought to be deeply dug,
and a quantity of rough manure dug in to enrich
the soil for top-dressing in the spring.
Winter Salad. — Lettuces in the open garden
which are in an advanced condition should have
some protection applied on the approach of frost ;
or they may be carefully lifted and placed in cold
pits, after which a good watering should be given.
Batavian Endive may be treated in the same way.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Endive. — To maintain a supply of this fine
salad, a few more plants ought to be lifted and
planted in a convenient place for blanching.
Plants lifted from now onwards should have a
good ball of earth attached to the roots, and the
work must be carried out as expeditiously as
possible.
Rhubarb. — Like all vegetables intended to
produce early supplies, the forcing of Rhubarb
must be gone into seriously. For Christmas
supplies the roots should now be got imder cover ;
that is if they have been exposed as previously
advised. At this stage guard against excessive
heat, and see that the roots do not receive a check
by watering with water many degrees below the
growing temperature.
Celery. — Owing to the imusually fine weather
experienced in October, Celery continued to grow
much later in the season than usual, and the
final earthing up was delayed in consequence.
As, however, dampness has to be guarded against,
no time should be lost in placing the soil up to
the stems to the fullest extent.
Peas. — ^To have an early supply of Peas — that
is, during the spring months — -a sowing should be
made now either in narrow boxes or pots, the
latter for preference. There are now to be had
from our leading seedsmen some dwarf varieties
suitable for this work. Sow in 8-inch pots in a
compost of good loam with a little spent Mushroom-
bed manure, and stand these in a cold frame until
growth commences. Guard against slugs and
mice, which do an immense amount of harm just
as the young shoots are coming through. The
plants must on no account be coddled at any
stage of their growth, nor should any attempt be
made to force them.
The Flower Garden.
Violets in Frames. — During the dull, simless
days of November these Violets will need looking
over frequently, and all the decayed leaves and
faded flowers removed. Stir up the soil between
the plants with a hand fork. To guard against
slugs, a dusting of soot or lime should be applied
between the plants occasionally.
Chrysanthemums.— A number of plants of
the border varieties must now be lifted and planted
in cold frames to provide cuttings for next year's
supplies. It is quite true that Chrysanthemums
will stand a good deal of frost, but in cold and
wet districts a great many are sure to die out
in the winter. Although under the protection
of cold frames, the lights should be fully opened
during all but very severe weather.
Michaelmas Daisies. — Where these require
replanting, the work may be proceeded with
now. To keep the stronger-growing varieties
within bounds, they need to be replanted every
two years. When grown on a border entirely
devoted to them, opportimity should be taken
to have the ground deeply trenched, adding a
liberal supply of good, well-rotted manure as the
work proceeds.
Plants Under Glass.
Border Carnations in Baskets. — The system
of growing border Carnations in wire baskets
for suspending from verandahs and summer-
houses is not so generally adopted as it might be,
considering its effectiveness. Plants that have
not been layered should be used in making up
the baskets, and if slightly shaded for a short
time will survive the severest weather. We had
some plants this season that were 4 feet through,
and the flower-stems hung gracefully down about
three feet all round. The present is a suitable
time to do this work.
Malmaison Carnations. — The earUest potted
layers ought now to have almost filled the small
pots with roots, and may be potted into 5-inch
or 6-inch pots. Later plants can remain in the
small pots until January. The soil for this potting
should be good loam, a small quantity of leaf-
mould, with a little ground- charcoal and soot.
One watering a few days after potting will probably
suffice for some weeks.
Plumbago rosea. — The earliest plants will
now be developing their flowers, and may be
moved in batches into the flowering house. Each
plant should be allowed plenty of space to develop
the small side shoots, which will throw some useful
flowers after the main stems have finished.
Primula kewensis. — This free-floweruig Primula
ought now to be coming into bloom, and, in order
to draw out the flowers, may be given a little
more fire-heat. If kept in too low a temperature,
the foliage is inclined to damp badly. Very little
artificial manure should be given ; a small quantity
of liquid manure occasionally will be ample.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Apricots. — Owing to these being the earliest
fruit trees to come into flower, no time ought to be
lost in seeing to any that require to be moved.
In transplanting Apricots it is most important
that the roots he kept near the surface and the
soil made very firm about them. In addition to
lime rubble, some g'itty matter must be added
to the soil. Carefully remove all worn-out
branches, and any long spins may be shortened.
Raspberries. — In making new plantations of
these it is wise to select a spot where the soil is
fairly moist, and, if possible, in a different aspect
from the existing plantation, the reason being
that a better succession of fruit can be had.
Although a surface-rooting plant, the ground
should be deeply dug to prevent the soil becoming
stagnant, adding at the same time a liberal allow-
ance of lime rubble. The plants are best planted
in rows about five feet apart and 18 inches between
the plants.
Fruit Under Glass.
Figs. — Pot trees intended to produce ripe
fruit towards the end of April ought now to be
placed in a vinery or Peach-house shortly to be
started, failing, of course, a pit that could be
devoted entirely to them. In the latter a hot-
bed could be made up in which to plunge the
pots. No attempt should be made to hasten
the trees into growth ; the starting must be slow
and gradual. Damping and syringing must be
performed with caution.
John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopetoun Gardens, South Quecnsferry, N.B.
560
THE GARDEN.
[November 14. 1914.
PRUNING ORNAMENTAL
SHRUBS.
IT is doubtful whether any other necessary
gardening operation is so little understood,
or so seldom properly carried out, as the
pruning of ornamental shrubs. In many
places, and more particularly gardens of
small dimensions, the cutting is carried out
indiscriminately and to excess, with the result
that the plants never attain the graceful contour
and freedom of blossoming that Nature intended.
On the other hand, one sometimes finds, even in
good gardens where a large staff is kept, shrubberies
that are overcrowded and neglected, and far from
being the interesting and pleasing feature that a
well planted and tended shrub border ought to be.
For the purpose of elucidation we may divide
ornamental shrubs, roughly, into three sets, i.e.,
those that flower in late winter and spring, those
that flower in summer and autumn, and those of
an evergreen character. The first two sets are of
the greatest importance, and, owing to the
divergent character of the many kinds embraced,
need the exercise of forethought and care.
Shrubs that Flower in Late Winter and
Spring. — Of these we find good examples in the
Winter Jasmine, Forsythia suspensa or Golden Bell,
Spiraa arguta, S. Thunbergii and S; confusa.
Winter Sweet (Chimonanthus fragrans), Prunus
japonica flore pleno and the Star-flowered Magnolia,
M. stellata. Now, it is obvious that as these
shrubs produce their blossoms so early in the year,
they must be borne on wood that was made the
previous autumn ; hence to cut away any of this
wood before the flowering, i.e., in autumn or
winter, would mean a corresponding loss of flowers.
For this reason the wise gardener wiU defer any
cutting that may be necessary until after the
flowers have faded, but the earlier then it is done
the better ; for this removal of wood is an induce-
ment to the shrub to produce more growths of a
robust character that will, in most instances,
flower freely next winter or spring. Although this
may be taken as a good general basis on which to
work, some knowledge of the shrubs and the
conditions under which they are grown will also
be necessary. Some shrubs, notably Magnolia
stellata, already referred to, are so slow-growing
that very little pruning is ever needed, all that is
required being an occasional thinning out of old
wood. On the other hand, the Golden Bell
(Forsythia) or Prunus triloba flore pleno will need
their shoots that have flowered cut back close to
the old wood if grown in beds or against a wall,
but if grown in a border, where large specimens
can be accommodated, only a few growths need
be treated in this way. Much the same remarks
apply to the Winter Jasmine when, on the one
hand, it is grown in a confined space and, on the
other, where it has almost unlimited room. It
will therefore be seen that the pruning of early
flowering shrubs calls for the exercise of common
sense and knowledge of the habit of the plants
and tlie purpose for which they are grown.
Summer and Autumn Flowering Shrubs. —
When we come to these, the remarks as to the
exercise of common sense may be applied with
equal force. But here the method of pruning will
difler considerably. Into this section we may
place such shrubs as Buddleia variabilis veitchiana,
Tamarix aestivalis, such Spirieas as japonica and
Douglasii, Ceanothuses azureus and americanus,
Diervillas or Weigelas, and the Spanish and Mount
Etna Brooms. With these shrubs the pruning
is usually done in February or March, especially
with the Buddleia and Spiraeas, which are then
cut hard back almost to the old wood. These
shrubs produce their best flowers on growths that
are made during the current year, and, by pruning
severely, the formation of sturdy shoots is induced.
Then someone may ask, " Why not prune earlier
in the winter ? " The reason is this : If the work
were done, say, in November or December, the
dormant buds that were left would, in all pro-
bability, start into growth almost at once, and,
consequently, be very liable to damage by cold
winds or frost. By leaving the pruning until
March, the buds remain quiescent and the danger
is to a very considerable extent obviated. The
Tamarix mentioned may be pruned in two ways.
At Kew it is grown in large lawn beds, and is cut
down nearly to the ground level early each spring.
On the other hand, if grown in a shrub border and
a large plant is desired, less drastic treatment
would be called for, a partial shortening back only
of the growths being necessary. The Diervillas or
Weigelas need different treatment again. .Although
flowering in summer, the blossoms are mostly
on the previous year's wood, and a thinning
out of very old growths is all that can be permitted,
unless some are shortened to keep them within
bounds. The Spanish and Mount Etna Brooms
are best left well alone, except to occasionally thin
out a few of the old shoots, or to restrict those
that are encroaching too much on their neighbours.
In doing this, however, do not cut into old wood,
otherwise new shoots are not likely to be formed.
The Ceanothuses named are cut back almost to
the old wood each year, but this must not be
taken to apply to such kinds as C. rigidus, C.
thyrsiflorus and C. veitchianus, which flower much
earlier in the year, and ought, therefore, to be
treated as advised for Forsythia. Most of the
ornamental flowering shrubs come under one or
the other of the types that are named, and, with
reasonable care and observation, their pruning
ought not to be a matter of great difficulty.
With Evergreen Shrubs the work is of a com-
paratively simple character. It is usually done
for the purpose of admitting light and air to the
plants, when a general thinning out of the oldest
and worst-looking shoots is called for ; or to keep
the plants within bounds. In the latter case
shortening back of too venturesome growths is
demanded, and let it be done with knife or
secateurs, not with the garden shears, especially
where large-leaved shrubs are being dealt with.
Although evergreen shrubs can be pruned at almost
any season, March is most generally favoured,
because new growth is subsequently very quickly
formed, and any branches that may have been laid
bare veiled with greenery. H.
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND AtiSVJERS.^The Editor endeavours to
make Thk (;ai;den hcipfnl (., all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of (jardcning may he, and
tcith that object makes a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " cohimtis. All communications shoitid be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden. 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, IF.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each shotdd be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps thai are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher.
Eren/ di-pcrhurul <•/ horliniUiire Is represented in The
Garden, and Ihr Editor ini'iics readers to send in queMions
relatinij lo muK.'rs upon irhich thnj wish expert advice.
The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and note^s.
but he will not he responsible for their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, ivill be taken, and ivhere stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions.
As regards photographs, if payment he desired, the Editor
nsks that the price required for repnidnrlion be pin inly stated.
It must he distinctly understood that ottlg the urliuil photo-
grapher or owner of the copi/ri'/h/ irill he ireutni n-ith.
The Editor will not hr re^ponsib/r for fhr return of artistic
or literary contributions n-hirh he mini not he able to use, and
tfie receipt of a proof must not he taken as ecidence that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.
Offices: 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, WC.
FLOWER GARDEN.
HELICHRYSUM TO NAME (A. £.)■— From the piece
siil.iiiittr.i your plant would appear to be Helichrysum
inicrnpljylhiiii, but it would be unsafe to name it unless
statin HI ilowLT. ^\'hen that cn^sues, send us a flower-head
and branch for verification. During the winter you had
better give the plant frame or cold greenhouse protection.
HARDY PLANTS FOR EXHIBITION (W. P.).— For
the first week in September we recommend the followint:
for distinctness and variety. You will note we have given
you more than you require, since it is not always well
to trust to the exact numbers. Helenium Kiverton
Gem, H. cupreum, Sedum spectabile atropurpureum,
Lobelia Queen Victoria, Aster Amellus Uiverslea, A.
Isevigatus, A. Beauty of Colwall, Statice latifolia, Veronica
subscssilis, Anemone japonica alba. A. j. rubra and A. j.
Queen Charlotte. If of each of these you plant three
specimens to form a group, you should have no diflflculty
in making a good choice.
TREATMENT OF IRIS STYLOSA (G. 5tm).— This
Algerian species requires a well-drained soil of sandy
loam to which old mortar or ceiling planter at the rate
of one-third of the whole has been added. Failing these,
the next best thing is sandstone broken to the size of a small
Orange and in the same proportion. Important cultural
items are very firm planting and keeping the rhizomes
quite near the surface. The soil firmness tends to moderate
grossness of gro\vth and favours a better flowering. A
south aspect against a wall should be chosen, and a green-
house wall for preference. Tf the soil is of a clayey nature
and poorly drained, arrange the plants a few inches above
the ordinary level and wedge them about \\ith sandstone
bloeks. In your district the species, though usually
regarded as winter flowering, will not, in all probability,
do much in the way of blooming before early spring.
PERENNIALS FOR SHADY GARDEN (ff. A. C.).—
Doubtless the Apple trees casting so much shade is among
the causes of your non-success. This will continue
unless the shade can be modified by pruning the trees.
You would get the best flowering from such plants as
Coreopsis grandiflora, Gaillardia grandiflora, Oriental
Poppies in scarlet and other shades. Irises of the Flag
section, as aurea, JMrs. Darwin, Dr. Berniee and Mme.
Chereau ; Pyrcthrums J. N. Twerdy, Enchantress, No
Plus Ultra, James Kelway, Hamlet and Mrs. Bateman
Brown ; Helenium pumilum, Achillea Ptarmica The
Pearl, A. alpina, Campanula Van Houttei, Rudbeckia
Ncwmanii, Anemone japonica rubra, A. allia, A. elegans.
Aster Amellus bessarabicus, A. A. Kiverslea, A. Sirius,
A. Iffivigatus, A. Novi-Belgii densus, A. ericoides Desire'
and A. acris. To these might be added Carnations of
sorts, hybrid Pentstemons, early flowering Clirysanthe-
mums. and a selection of Daffodils and Darwin Tulips
for early flowering. All these had bettor be obtained
in plants and put out during tlie coming weeks. All
flowering climbers prefer sun, and we do not recall any
likely to give much success in a " very sliady part of the
garden." A Rambler Hose may do for a tiiiie, and Lady
Gay is one of the best. For the greenhouse you had
better grow Zonal PelarL'oniums, to be had in cuttings
or plants now; Perpetual-flowering Carnations, also
available now as plants ; Heliotropes and Fuchsias,
obtainable in the spring as rooted plants: Lilium longi-
floruni and L. speciosum, available now as dry bulbs ;
tuberous Begonias in variety, obtainable in February
as dry roots ; and Primulas and Cinerarias, the seeds of
which may be sown in l-'ebruary and March. From cut-
tings obtained in February next. Chrysanthemums for
flowering n year hence may be gro\vTi.
GREEN CARPETING PLANTS (Japan).— Jmt what
is likely to succeed and do what you require is very much
a (|ues1ion of experiment, and not a little also of culti-
vation. In a land where " lawn grass is hard to grow "
it is obvious that special cultural methods must be resorted
to if success is to be attained. In the circumstanco
we are not surpriso,
enduring and freely flowered in England. To ensure
November 14, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
561
success, however, these should be planted in the autumn—
in this country Octoherand November are the best months
—and in deeply trenelicd, heavily manured soil. By
these means, and by the tree use of cow-manure, valuable
rather tor its cooIinR and moisture-retaining attributes
than for hiRh manurial properties, these plants are rendered
attractive often enough in the poorest and sandiest of
soils. Then there is the entire range of the 'Aubrietias,
not a few of which luxuriate on old walls and ruins,
where little soil and groat dryness prevail. There are
many varieties, and all aro spring (lowering. These
could be raised from seeds. 'Campanula muralis
(portenschlagiana) produces a most refreshing carpet
of green, and for a long time is shrouded with pale blue
flowers. In similar circumstances to the Violas some
of the Mossy Saxifrages should bo tried, *S. hypnoides,
8. ctespitosa, S. geranioides, S. Sternbcrgii and S. nmscoides
being among the more useful. Other good plants of a
carpeting nature are •Silene alpestris, 'Achillea tomentosa,
A. Wilczekii, Herniaria glabra, Hclxine Solierolii, Acsena
sanguisorbse, Veronica prostrata, 'Scdum album and
S. acre. A plant of exceptional merit in such cases,
though some object to it or account of its Chamomile-
like flower-heads, is •Pyrethrum Tchihatchewii. It will
often succeed where grass refuses to grow. These arc
of prostrate habit, and in the main ornamental in flower
also. To ensure success, the value of deep cultivation
should be appreciated, as this will assist to reduce watering
to a minimum. We have marked by an asterisk those
we consider the best in the circumstances named.
TREES AND SHRUBS.
PRUNING TAMARISK (M. E. B.).— You had better
leave your Tamarisk until February before you cut it
back if it is one of the summer-flowering kinds. If,
however, it is Tamarix tetrandra, which blooms in May,
pruning must be left until the flowers are over. At your
altitude the climate may be too cold for the best develop-
ment, but that you can only find out by experiment.
The Willows you mention should be cut hard back in
March, just as new growth is commencing.
WHEN TO PRUNE POLYGONUM BALDSCHUANICUM
(E. Wolff). — Polygonum baldschuanicum may be pruned
any time during the winter, but for preference about
February. It may be cut back fairly hard if you so
desire, for abundance of shoots mil be produced next
summer from buds on the lower parts of the branches
which would otherwise have remained dormant. If you
do not wish to prune the plant severely, cut back the
wood formed this year to within an eye or two of the
base.
PRUNING HIBISCUS (FT. H. O.).— Your plants of
Hibiscus syriacus can be cut back as you desire, but it will
be advisable to delay the work until February. The plants
may be pruned fairly severely at that time. If you so
wish, they can be cut back to within a short distance
of the base of the main branches. When the work is
done, cover each wound with coal tar, otherwise fungus
spores may find an entrance and cause the branches to
decay. We shall probably publish a note on the cultivation
of this shrub at an early date.
SHRUBS FOR SEASIDE (Plymouth). — The following
shrubs are likely to suit your purpose : Olearia Haastii ,
a New Zealand shrub of dense habit, growing 4 feet high
and as much across. Leaves evergreen, flowers white,
in July. Stands pruning well, and is one of the very best
seaside shrubs. Veronica speciosa, evergreen, grows 3 feet
to 4 feet high and 4 feet to 5 feet through ; flowers freely
during the autumn and early winter. Likes sea air.
Fuchsia Riccartonii, usually deciduous, grows 6 feet to
10 feet high and as far through ; flowers throughout the
summer and stands sea air well. Arbutus Unedo, ever-
green, 10 feet to 15 feet high and as much in diameter ;
flowers in the autumn and bears decorative fruit ; should
be sheltered a little from strong breezes. Laurustinus,
evergreen, 4 feet to 8 feet high and as far through, will
give good results in the position described. Philadelphus
Lemoinei erectus, a dwarf Mock Orange, 3 feet to 4 feet
high, which is likely to give better results than the taller
ones. The Lilac is not likely to give very good results
in such an exposed place, though it may be tried. Sea
Buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides), a showy fruiting
shrub which thrives well in the vicinity of the sea. Male
and female plants must be planted together. Mature
plants may be kept to 6 feet or 8 feet high and the same
in diameter by priming. Berberis Darwinii is an evergreen
which bears orange-coloured flowers in April. It grows
from 6 feet to 10 feet high and from 4 feet to 6 feet in
diameter. B. stenophylla is also an orange-flowered
evergreen. Of spreading habit, it grows 8 feet high and
as far through. Tamarix pentandra, 3 feet high and
2 feet through. It must be cut back in[ February each
year. Escallbnia macrantha, an evergreen, grows 6 feet
to 8 feet high, with a similar diameter. Its red flowers
appear in the summer and autumn. E, exoniensis is
quite as vigorous. It bears white flowers. E. philippiana
grows about three feet high and the same through. The
leaves fall in the autumn and the flowers are white.
Cytisus scoparius andreanus and C. prsecox are showy
Brooms which bloom in May. By cutting them back
each year after flowering they form bushyjlplants 3 feet
to 4 feet high. Ribes sanguineum, a deciduous early
flowering shrub, grows 4 feet to 5 feet high and the same
across. Cistus laurifolius is a white-flowered evergreen
3 feet to 5 feet high of loose habit. Hypericum moserianum
is a yellow-flowered tufted plant a foot high. Erica
mediterranea is of compact gro\Hh, 4 feet to 6 feet high
and 2 feet to 3 feet through. Diervilla Abel CarriSre
grows 5 feet to 6 feet high and forms a large bush. The
foregoing particulars will give you an idea as to the amount
of space required for fully grown plants. The following
twelve perennials may be grown : Papaver orientale.
Salvia nemorosa, Monarda didyma, Gypsophila paniculata.
Delphiniums in variety. Phloxes in variety, Helianthus
Miss Mellish, Aster {Michaelmas Daisy) Climax, Lychnis
chalcedouica, Lilium candidum. Crambo orientale and
Heuchera sanguinea.
CLEMATIS JACKMANNII ON WALL (F. 4.).— Clematis
Jackmannii would succeed in the position named, but it
is apt to become very bare at the base. Should you
desire to keep the wall well clothed, it would be better
to select a plant like Jasminum nudiflorum. This plant
bears yellow flowers freely during the winter. A free-
flowering red Kose will be found in Longworth Eambler.
It is a Hybrid Tea, producing its flowers over a long
period. Two good Apples to plant as cordons are Cox's
Orange Pippin and Charles Koss. The fruit of both kinds
will keep until Christmas. The Everlasting Pea can be
planted in the position described.
RUSCUS ACULEATUS NOT FRUITING (E. S. K.).—
Euscus aculeatus does produce fruits in this country,
but as male and female flowers are produced on different
plants, it is necessary to plant both sexes together to pro-
cure fruits. Propagation is frequently done by division
of the clumps ; hence it often happens that the plants
in certain places arc all of one sex, and presumably all
your plants are either male or female. If you raise plants
from seeds, you arc almost sure to procure both sexes.
When your old plants flower the next time, take notice
whether they are males or females, and procure examples
of the opposite sex.
THE GREENHOUSE.
TREATMENT OF RHODODENDRON CUTTING
(P. J. T. H.). — Your Rhododendron cutting, having now
pushed forth numerous flne roots, should be potted in
some good peat and sand such as is used for Azaleas,
Heaths and similar plants. It is very necessary that
the pot be effectually drained. As the roots produced
in water are very brittle, particular care must be taken
not to damage them when potting. After the plant is
potted, a thorough watering should be given through a
fine rose, after which it must be returned to the structure
in which it has rooted. We do not know the temperature
of your hothouse, but when the roots have taken posses-
sion of the new soil it must not be kept too warm, as a
temperature of 60° to 60° during the winter will be very
suitable for it. At the same time, we must congratulate
you on striking a Rhododendron in this manner, for we
have never before met with cuttings of these plants rooted
in water alone.
LILY BLOOM FOR INSPECTION (Sister Anm).—1he
Lily is Crinum Moorei, and, when well gro-svn, one of the
most ornamental of its class. To do justice it should have
greenhouse treatment and a rather liberal fare. It is
best grown in rich sandy loam and leaf-mould to which
well-decomposed manure has been added. If this latter
is not available, a little bone-meal or artificial fertihser,
such as Clay's Fertilizer, at the rate of two small handfuls
to half a bushel of soil. In the growing season a dessert-
spoonful of the manure sprinkled on the surface soil
once a fortnight and watered in would be helx)ful. At
this period, too, the plant should have abundant supplies
of water. This is most important. If you have any
diflioulty in obtaining the soil, any local nurseryman would
supply it. The plant is almost evergreen, but well repays
a few weeks' rest, and little water is required during the
winter months. If you wish to repot it, do so in March
next, and use a pot of rather liberal size. Some of the
finest examples we have seen were grown in the con-
servatory, the huge pots immersed half their depth in
the water of the fountain basin, the plants revelling in
the treatment and flowering grandly.
from rust, due to the fungus Puccinia malvacearum.
Raise seedhngs and spray them with a rose red solution
of potassium permanganate at frequent intervals, Puccinia
afgra, another rust, is attacking your Violas. Cut them
down and spray \vith the permanganate solution mentioned
above.
MANURE FOR ROSE ( T. H.).— You would probably
find cow-manure give you better results than horse-manure
for the Rose, and the addition to this of basic slag would
undoubtedly be beneficial. You do not say whether
your meadow land is light or heavy, so that we cannot
advise what artificial manure would be best. We think,
if you used a good dressing of basic slag last year, you
need not add lime this year, but probably some form of
nitrogenous manure will prove of service. Sulphate of
ammonia would perhaps be the best for grass land, or
steamed bone-flour where the herbage is very poor.
ROCK GARDEN.
MAZUS REPTANS (E. S. L.). — So far as we can judge
from the description given, your plant is the correct one,
the question of leaf colour — invariably infiuenced by
soil and other local conditions — notwithstanding. The
species, naturally of a carpeting and free habit of groivth,
would in your district put on a greater vigour, and with
good soil might be responsible for the "terrific growth"
of which you speak. It is not a plant we should select
for the moraine in the ordinary way, as it is much too
rampant. Experiences in dilferent localities, however,
are so varied that a plant which is rampant in one place
may require a good deal of coaxing in another before
it can be induced to grow at all. Try firming the soil,
both in the tufts and around. This might steady growHi
and give you an ample reward in flowers anotlier year.
Excess of gro^vth is opposed to a good flowering, and a
modification of it might bring about the desired result.
ROSE GARDEN.
ROSES DISEASED (Hollyhock). — The Rose Juliet is
attacked by the fungus Actinonema rosse, which is often
very serious in its attacks upon that variety. Persistent
spraying with Bordeaux mixture from May onwards
will chebk it to some extent. Juhet does well in an open
position, but flowers on the old wood, and is, therefore,
a fit subject for pegging down. Baroness Rothschild
is attacked by the Rose rust (Phragmidium subcorti-
catum). All leaves attacked should be collected and
burned in the autumn, and spraying with a rose red
solution of potassium permanganate will check this
disease to some extent. The Hollyhocks are also suffering
FRUIT GARDEN.
NEW PEACH BORDER (E. L. S.).— You do not say
whether the old Peach border is occupied mth the roots
of the trees still growing in the Peach-house, or whether
you are about to plant a new tree or trees in a new border.
We presume it is the latter. The following makes an
excellent soil compost for a Peach border : From the
oldest and best pasture land you have cut some turf in sods
4 inches thick (having first cut off the grass as close as
possible). To one cartload of this turfy soil add two
barrow-loads of bricks, broken small (the size of a hen's
egg), then a good quantity of old mortar rubble (from old
ceilings or what not), a quarter of a hundredweight of
quarter-inch bones, the same of bone-meal, five pecks
of lime, and three pecks of soot. Cut up the turf into
pieces the size of a quarter of a brick and mix all well
together. If you have not the turf, or cannot procure it,
you must use the best soil you have in your garden.
The items mentioned may be rather expensive, but if
it is borne in mind that a Peach border, when once well
made, will remain in good condition for twenty years or
more, the cost in the first instance should not be regarded
as excessive.
VINES IN A SMALL GREENHOUSE (Peccant).—
Yes, November is a good time to plant Vines. Although
the border has only recently been made, you ought to
plant the new Vines in new turfy loam, the same as is
generally used for planting Vines in. We do not mean
renew the whole border, but, say, give half a barrow-load
to each Vine. Shake all the soil away from the Vine
roots, disentangle them carefully, and slightly cut
back the points of all the roots (only an inch or so). The
new soil should not be wet at the time of planting. Place
the soil over and among the roots carefully with the hands
in the first instance, pressing it down firmly. \Vhen
planting is completed, tread the soil firmly down if it
is fairly dry. The roots should only be buried 5 inches
deep. Give a good watering after planting. This will
settle the soil to the roots. Cover the border over with
freshly fallen leaves, 10 inches deep when trodden down,
and cover with a thin layer of straw (well corded down)
to prevent it blowing about. The leaves should not be
taken off until the first week in April. Combinations
are fine things when it is to the mutual interest of the
parties combining ; when it is not, then look out for
trouble. So it is with Ferns and Vines. Vines to do
well must have complete rest in the wirter by throwing
the ventilators well open night and day, excepting when
it is very windy or when there is extreme frost. If you
must have Ferns, why do you not have hardy Scotch
Ferns instead of foreign ores ? When grown in pots under
glass, they are quite as beautiful and far more interesting.
Two excellent white Grapes to go with Black Hamburgh
are Buckland Sweetwater and Lady Hutt.
KITCHEN GARDEN.
CUCUMBER DISEASED (M. Boad).—'Ihe fungus on
the Cucumber is Cladosporium scabies. Probably the
house has been kept somewhat too close, which is sure
to give the conditions which encourage the attack of
such fungi.
MISCELLANEOUS.
SOWING GRASS SEED (H. Qooiman). — Two pounds
of grass seed will be ample for the space of ground you
wish to sow. Do not sow the seed until March ; then
select a suitable day when the soil is moderately dry,
and sow the seed evenly over the surface. Rake it in
well, roll it lightly, and protect it with old ftsh-netting
or cotton, otherwise sparrows will play havoc with the
seed.
USE OF SLOES (Soldier's Widow). — Sloe fruits are some-
times made into jelly, but it is doubtful whether you would
find Sloe jelly a financial success with sugar at its present
price. Y'ou had better experiment with a few, and obtain
thereby some idea of the likely cost of gathering and
preserving. You will then be able to judge as to whether
you are likely to be able to dispose of the jelly to advantage
or not. Blackberry jam or jelly would be more likely to
prove a financial success.
TO MAKE A DRY TENNIS COURT (Dry Court).—
A good dry tennis court can be made of asphalt. Excavate
the ground 10 inches deep, place 6 inches of rough broken
briclis at the bottom, on that 3 inches of coarse tarred
macadam, then finish with an inch of fine asphalt. Or
the bed may be filled to within S inches of the surface
with bricks and clinkers, and be finished off with flne
marl or burnt ballast. Y^ou would be well advised to
562
THE GARDEN.
[November 14. 1914.
visit some recreation sround where such courts exist,
and obtain a little information from the euperintendent
btifore yon comraenn^ your court.
WHITE FLIES FOR INSPECTION (J. P.). -The flies
attacking your plants are called white flies, and are allied
to both scale insects and aphides. They are exceedindv
troublesome pests, and to destroy them the house requin's
to be fumigated three or four times within ten days.
Fumigants. unfortunately, do not destroy the eggs,
and some of the scale-like young ones also escape. If
you can combine fumigation \rith the dipping of tlie
plant in the soft soap sulphur dip we have frequently
recommended, it will be a con.siderable help.
FURNISHING A GARDEN (Frank Shearn).~Jt the
bank is small, Hypericum calvcinum would do ; if of
moderate size or depth, say, :! feet to 4 feet, Cotoneaster
microphylla ; and if 5 feet or 6 feet deep, a wichuraiana
Rose. Either of the last two would trail well; the former
could be planted thinly over all. For the wall you cannot
do better than plant the Ivies known as Hedera Heli.\
palmata and H. H. p. aurca in mixture. If these are
to quickly cover it, a number of small and young plants
should bo put out in a well-prepared trencl'i, and not a
few extra large old ones, which take more time. If you
require flowering trees for the sides of the entrance, plant
Paul's Double Scarlet Thorn ; if an evergreen, Cupressus
iawsoniana aurea. In all probability the latter would
he best, because of the space apparently at disposal.
The Thorn is very beautiful, but should not be nearer
than 6 feet to the gateposts. Rosa rugosa and its white
variety would make a good hedge if there is room for it
to develop. Some good Roses as standards are Caroline
Testout, Prince de Bulsarie, General Jacqueminot, William
Allen Richardson, Viscountess Folkestone, Starof Waltham,
Ulrich Brunnor, Rev. D. R. Williamson, Mme. Abel
Chatenay, Lyon Rose, Killarney and Lady Hillingdon.
For a weeping Rose try Excelsa or llinnehaha. Lawn
grass may be sown until mid-October in your locality
Of bulbous plants. Tulips in bedding. Cottage, May-
flowering, Parrot and Dar^vin varieties would afford
a display for nearly two months ; while Daffodils, Musearis,
Fritillaries, Squills and Chionodoxas would do the same.
Write to some of the dealers advertising in our columns,
all of whom make up collections of these things,
NAMES OF PLANTS.— Coj-i.—l, Alyssum maritimum ;
2, Hypericum reptans ; 3, Gazania species, specimen too
scrappy to identify ; 4. Sedum spurium ; 5, Campanula
linifolia. George Neil, — Nerine coruscans major.
NAMES OF FRUIT.— ilics. Cumberland.— 1, Bramlcy's
Seedling; 2, Co'c's Pomona; 3, Duchess of Oldenburg;
4, King of the Pippins, dessert variety : 5, decayed ; 6,
Glou Slorceau. dessert variety ; 7, Bellissime d'Hiver,
cooking variety ; 8, Marie Louise d'Uccle, dessert variety.
Nemo. — 1, Newton Wonder; 2, Bismarck. C. P.
— All the Pears arrived in a pulp. Sound fruit must be
sent. Also see lules. H. G. &'.— Large Pear. Beurrfi
Diel ; small Pear, Durondeau S. Dcrii?!.— The fruit is
so similar to Yorkshire Beauty that it minht be the same
variety. A. D.—\, M6re du Manage ; 2, King of the
Pippins ; 3, Blenheim Orange ; 4, Bess Pool ; 5. Haw-
thornden ; 6, Verulam ; 7, Sugarloaf ; S. Kerry Pippin ;
9, Queen Ciroline , 10, Beun« St«rckmans ; 11, Beiirr6
Superfln; 12, King of the Pippins. This is attacked by
" bitter-pit."
SOCI ETI ES.
ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.
DtTRIN;.'. normal times one of the chiefest values of the
fortnightly meetines of the above-named society is the
object-lessons afforded of the variety obtaining in gardens
as the season advances. On the last occasion the fruit-
grower.-, were to the front, while at the meeting held on the
3rd inst. the flower-growers hell the field. jNaturaUy, the
Chrysanthemum was strongly in evidence, and while we
have seen greater numbers, we have rarely seen finer quality
or better displayed flowers For one collection of these a
gold medal was awarded, a silver-gilt Flora medal beiuL'
awarded in two other instances. An exceptional exhibit
tor a November meeting was that of Dahlias from Mark's
Tey, the flowers fresh and good. Of much merit, too,
was the hardy Fern collection from Enfleld. Orchids and
fruit were but sparsely shown. The Orchid committee
granted awards to four, and the floral committee to five,
novelties.
Orohid Co3im[ttef.
Present : J. Gurney Fowler, Esq. (chairman), and Sir
Jeremiah Colman, Sir Harry J. Veitch, Messrs. J. O'Brien
F. Menteith Ogilvie, T. Armstrong. Walter Cobb, J. Cypher
J. Charlesworth, J. F.. Shill, S. W. Florv, W. P. Bound
Arthur Dye, H. G. Alexander, W. H. White, E. H. David-
son, W. Bolton, Gurney Wilson and de B. Crawshay.
Only one or two small Orchid groups were staged at
this meeting, though they contained not a few choice
things. In that from Messrs. Sander and Sons, St, Albans,
Ccelogyne mooreana was prominc.it, the erect, foot-high
raceme of chaste white, yellow-crested flowers sho\ving to
considerable advantage. In leaf Kro\vth and carriage
it is quite distinct from the bettor-known C. cristata,
whicli flowers in midwinter. C. Brunnea is an interesting
species of the same genus, having short pendent racemes
of yellowish green flowers. Odontoglos.sum pcrcultum x
gandavense has very dark-coloured flowers. Cattlcya
Fabia alba, C. Mrs. Pitt and C, acis frich orange sepals
and petals and reddish lip) were all noted in the group.
Messrs. Charlesworth and Co , Havward's Heath, had
a few particularly choice specimens, a« Odontioda Madeline,
Cattleya Fabia alba (fine variety), Odontoglossum crispum,
O. A'reworth (of dark chocolate colour), La?lio-Cattleya
iVelcus (yellow, with crimson-purple lip), L.-C. Thyone
(yellow sepals and handsome crimson-brown, much-
reticulated lip) and the ever-welcome, pure white-flowered
Dendrobium Dearei, which is indispensable to any collec-
tion at this time. Some of the more important novelties
certificated at this meeting were also in this group. (For
these sec *' New and Rare Plants," page 558.)
Mr. E. V. Low, Haywards Heath, staged half a dozen
distinct varieties of Cattlcya labiata, \iz., Daphne,
La Vidrge, R. J. Measures, W. R. Lee, Pride of Southgate
and Mrs. E. Ashworth, the little group of well-flowered
specimens making a iioodly show.
FRriT AND VESETABIK CO.MMITTEE.
Present: .\. H. Pearson, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs J.
Cheal, E. Beckett. A. R. Allan, H. .Alarkhan-, H. J. Wridit,
E. A. Bunyard, W. Poupart, A. Bullock, W. E. Humphreys,
A. Grubb, A. W. Metcalfe and Owen Thomas.
From Messrs. W. Seabrook and Sons. Chelmsford, came
a collection of thirty-eight dishes of fruit, the whole, save
four varieties of Pears, being Apples, of excellent quality
and flnish. They represented much the same type of
excellence, indeed, as was seen in at least two collections
at the previous meeting. Blenheim Orange, Cox's Orange
Pippin, The Queen, Allington Pippin, King of Pippins,
Bramlcy's Seedling, Lane's Prince Albert, Newton Wonder,
Warner's King, Beauty of Kent. Emperor Alexander.
Peasgood's Nonsuch and Boyal Jubilee were among the
best sorts of Apples ; while the Pears Emile d'Heyst,
CatiUac and Uvedale's St. Germain were all very fine.
Silver Knlghtian medal.
From Bedfords, Havering, Romford, Sir Montague
Turner (gardener, Mr. .A.. Humphreys) sent a small collec-
tion of high-class fruits, which included Black .Micantc
Grapes, .Apples, Pears and a dish of Guavas. The dishes
of Pears of Emile d'Heyst, Durondeau, Pitmaston
Duchess and Marie Louise were particularly handsome-
looking examples and well finished; while such Apples as
Cox's Orange Pippin, Ribston Pippin, King of Pippins,
Peasgood's Nonsuch, Allington Pippin and Cliristmas
Pearmain also claimed attention. Silver Banksian medal.
Bunches of the outdoor Grape Reine Olga de "WUrtera-
berg were sent by Mrs. Watt Black, Edenbridge, and for
the purpose named the variety is one of the more useful
sorts.
Dishes of four varieties of Quince, viz.. Champion,
Portugal, Borgeant and Pear-shaped, were sent from the
Society's gardens at Wisley. The fruits were of large size.
Floral Committee.
Present : H. B. May, Esq. (chairman), and Jlcssrs. E. X.
Bowles, J. Green, G. Reuthe, R. Hooper Pearson, J. T.
Bennett-Poe. W. J, Bean, J. Hudson, J. F. McLcod,
J. W. Moorman, C. R. Fielder. F, W. Harvey, W. Howe,
T. Stevenson, J. Jennings, W. Bain, J. Dickson, C. Dixon,
H. J. Jones, C. E. Shea, C. E. Pearson, W. Cuthbertson,
W. P. Thomson, E. H. Jenkins, G. Paul and W. H. Page.
Messrs. Dobbie and Co., Edinburgh, staged some three
dozen vases of Collarette Dahlias, as fine in quality, almost
certainly as rich and varied in colour, as wc arc wont to
see in September. The exhibit in itself was evidence
of the exceptionally mild weather and the immunity from
frost experienced in certain districts, while as a display
of colour the group was welcome indeed in November.
Doon (rich orange scarlet), Purity (white), Balmoral
(cerise). Prince of Orange, Cloch (mauve with creamy
inner florets, a most charming thing). Diadem (rose cerise')
and Deveron (deep rosejcerise with white inner florets)
were among the best and showiest in a particularly
OTod lot.
^"Messrs. Rasmussen and Crone, Woodbine Nursery,
Wanstead, N.E., showed a capital group of Begonia
Gloire de Lorraine, together with plants of Clibran's Pink
and The Gem. .All the plants were well-grown, compact
examples.
Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, W.C, displayed
a superb lot of Neriues. Over three dozen vases of these
indispensable greenhouse flowers were staged. The
collection embraced many fine examples of Epic (ro^e),
Lady Clementine Mitford (flesh pink). Lady Mary Shelley
(delicate flesh), Flashlight (rich scarlet), Miss Carrington
(rose, shadediwhite at the edges) and Striped Beauty.
In addition, Hellcborus niger altifolius, the Gladwyn
iris (1. foetidissima), of which a superb lot of fruiting
pods were shown, and an assortment of Crocus species
were also on view. Of these, ochroleucus, Hadriaticus,
sandersianus and chrysobelonicus are all white-flowered
and very charming. Kniphofia aloides glaucescens.
Iris stylosa and Violet La France were also shown.
The Misses Hopkins, Shepperton-on-Tharaes, had a
small exhibit of alpines, among which were Sedums,
Dianthus deltoidcs, Gentiana acaulis, Polyszonum vaccini-
foiium, Viola Bowles' Black and others of miniature
growth.
.Messrs. H. B. May and Sons, Edmonton, displayed a
table of winter-flowering Begonias, as Exquisite, Jlrs.
Heal, Optima. Winter Cheer, Glory of Cincinnati and
Gloire de Lorraine, all of which were set in group form.
Statice profusa (good in colour and distinct). Hydrangea
-■Mme. E. JlouUiSre (white), and a well-flowered batch
of Cvclamensjwcre all included, with Ferns, in an interesting
e.^hibit.
Mr. J. J, Kettle, Corfe Mullen, near W'iinborne, Dorset,
showed some three dozen vases of Violets, chiefly of the
varieties La France and Princess of Wales. The flowers
were of fine size, and with giant stems displayed them-
selves to advantage. They were an admirable lot.
Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, iCent, showed a goodly grouping
of A.ster Tradescantii (white) and a large array of Neriues,
among which N. flexuosa alba, N. coruscans major, N.
Nellie Reuthe (rose) and N. Kitty were distinct. Crocus I
marathonisius (very flne white), C. longifolins, C. media
(o«e of the best dark-flowered sorts), Pernettyas of sorts
and a variety of alpines were also on view.
Messrs. Stuart. Low and Co., Enfleld, showed mnter-
flowering Begonias, as The Gem, Optima, Emita, Mrs.
Heal, Exquisite and other notable sorts.
Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Enfleld, had a superb lot
of Carnations, showing amply filled vases of Princess
Dagmar (crimson), Gorgeous, Philadelphia (pink), Jlrs.
Mackay Edgar (a fine seedling from .May Day), Satin
Robe, Slary Allwood and Mrs. C. F. Raphael.
Mr. Clarence Elliott, Stevenage, showed a charming
lot of Gentian flowers, together with pot-grown examples
of Crocus pulchellus, C. satiras, Potcntilla «iUmottiana
and a variety of other alpines.
Mr. L. R. Ru.^sell, Richmond, displayed a floor group
of Aucubas, Crataegus, Symphoricarpus mollis, Ivies,
Bamboos and other plants in variety.
E. G. Mocatta, Esq., Woburn Place, .Addlestonc (gar-
dener, Jlr. T. Stevenson), was awarded a gold medal
for a superbly arranged group of Chrysanthemums, which
embraced single, decorative and exliibition sorts. The
bold, handsome vases of flowers, ornamented by Osmunda
fronds and occasionally interspersed by Crotons, .Aralias
and like plants, were of a most imposing character, and
evoked much praise. Cranford Yellow, H. W. Thorpe
(white). Source d'Or, Virginia (white) and Mrs. E.
Tickle (pink) were all good. Celia (yellow), Mensa (white),
Ceddie Mason (crimson), Charles Kingslev (yellow),
Bronze Pagram, White Beauty and Mrs. Loo Tliomson
(primrose) are all singles, and constituted a front line
to this excellent group.
Messrs. J. Peed and Sons, West Norwood, S.E., had
an extensive group of Chrysanthemums, using a big line
of Stuart Smith (white, semi-double) in the background.
Charles Kingsley (yellow), Buttercup, Geoffrey Peed and
Fred Humphries (red) are singles chiefly, and of good
decorative merit,
Messrs. H. J. Jones, Limited, Lewisham, S.E , set up
a magnificent collection of Clirysanthemnms, the back line
of vases, composed in each case of about a score of plant
blooms, all of exhibition standard, evoking much praise.
There were fifteen of these vases; hence the imposing
character of the group is easily gauged. Bob Pulling
(yellow), Jlrs. E. Tickle (pink), iMrs. R. C. Pulling (yellow),
J. Surry (crimson), Jlrs. Wiseman (white, incurved).
R. Crocker (pink) and Romance (golden) were all of
exceptional merit. The front line was made up of sindes
naturally arranged in bowls, and in tlds wav constituted
a good setting to a very flne lot
Mes'TS. .AJlwood Brothers, Hayward s Heath, showed
some excellent Carnations, Carola, Princess Dagmar (both
crimson), Salmon Enchantress, Wi\elsfleld White, Mary
.Allwood, Gcrgeous and Champion being a few of the best
in a particularly nice, fresh-looking lot.
Messrs. Waterer, Sons and Crisp, Limited, Eagshot,
Surrey, showed herbaceous flowers, as Michaelmas Daisies,
Eryngiums, border Chrysanthemums, Iris stylosa, Salvia
Grahamii (scarlet). Iris alata, Sedum pdosum, Kniphofia
Nelsoni and other useful plants.
.Mr. C. Engclmann, Saffron Walden, showed Carnations
Enchantress Supreme, Wliitc Wonder. Gorgeous, Lady
Northclilfe, Lady Sleyer and others, all of fine quality
The Misses Price and Fyfe, Lee, S.E., displayed Chry-
santhemums in variety, Mrs. Andrew Walker (deep bronze)
being very fine. Carnations Enchantress Supreme,
Mikado, Kenneth (both fancies) and Mrs. Ward (cerise)
were also from the same source.
Mr. W. Wells, jun., .Alcrstham, had quite a show of
Gentiana acauUs with Erica mediterranca hybrida and
other plants.
Jtessrs. Wells, Merstham, had a good shotv of Chrysanthe-
mums, single and double. Ideality ;white, single), Ceddie
Mason (crimson, single) and Caterliam Bronze (single) were
very good. Queen Mary (giant white), Thomas Beeson
(bronze) and Mrs. R. Luxford (bronze) are large-flowered
sorts. Petite Jeanne is a pure white of useful size tor
cutting.
Messrs. H. Canneil and Sons, Eynsford, Kent, had an
admirable lot of Zonal Pelargoniums. Queen of Italy
(pink). Sir Thomas Hanbury (deep crimson), Vesta, Hall
Caine, The Sirdar, -Maxime Kovalevsky (all brilliantly
flowered sorts) were vtiry flne. Mrs. J. Ward is a particu-
larly larTe-flowered \ariely of salmon colour.
Messrs. J Cheal and Sons, Cray/ley, showed cut shrubs,
among which were five species of S>niphoricarpus, viz.,
racemosus, montanus (pink fruited). lle>iTii (small creamy-
coloured fruits), \-ulgaris (red) and occidentalis (creamy
fruited and of distinct leafage). Ccanothuses, Accrs,
Pernettyas, Veronicas and Baccharis balimifolius were also
noted.
JMr. Norman Davis. Framfleld, Sussex, had an excellent
table of Chrysanthemums, single, decorative and others.
William Turner (large-flowered white). Glorious (yellow),
.Ah'nsa (white), Mrs. Loo 'Thomson (primrose) and Excelsior
(bronze) were singles of high merit. Dandy (reddish),
-Mrs. G. Drabble (white), F. A. Wheeler (bronze) and His
.Majesty (crimson), all large-flowered sorts, were others of
note.
Jlr. .Amos Perry. Enfleld, staged a \'cry remarkable and
comprehensive collection of Polystiehums. a much-valued
genus of hardy evergreen Ferns which, during the late
summer and autumn months, arc often at their best.
There were some four or five dozen sorts, chiefly, ho\\ever,
of the variations of ]'. angulare. Of these, the very hand-
some P. a. divisilobum plumosum densum superbum
(see page 558) was the most conspicuous. It is a plant
of high ornament and distinction. Other distinct sorts
included P. a. d. densum, P. a. d. plumosum densum,
P. a. d. robustum, P. a. grandieeps. V. a. frondosum,
P. a. f. decompositum (with neatly cut pinnules), P.
Lonchitis (Holly Fern), P. aerostichoiiies and P. munitum.
iBfey-.
GARDEN.
-^£5'=
sy«
i!p^ ff
No. 2244.— Vol. LXXVIII.
November 21, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Sir Herbert Maxwell's Lily Articles. — In
response to enquiries from a number of readers
as to the promised articles on Lilies by Sir Herbert
Maxwell, Bart., we are now able to state that
these will commence in the first issue of next
year. By starting these articles then it will
ensure them all appearing in the same volume,
which will be more convenient for those who
bind their copies than spreading them over two
volumes.
A Good Autumn Rose.— When inspecting
a large collection of Roses on November lo, we
were much interested in a bed of Corallina. The
plants were as full of flower as one would expect
to find them in July, and the quality was but
little inferior to what it is earlier in the year.
Indeed, many of the blooms would
not have disgraced a summer
show. On several previous occa-
sions we have noticed how good
this Rose has been in autumn.
Although classed as a Tea variety,
it makes vigorous, erect growth,
and the beautiful coral red blooms
stand up well on long, stout stems.
It was raised by Messrs. William
Paul and Sons, and first sent out
by them in rgoo.
A Little-Known Pyracantha.—
The rather rare shrub Pyracantha
crenulata has been very attractive
at Kew during the present autumn
by reason of its profusion of bright
red berries, comparing well with
the better-known P. coccinea, or
Cratffigus Pyracantha as it is fre-
quently called. P. crenulata is a
native of the Himalaya and China,
and is a rapid-growing shrub, with
rather larger and thinner leaves
than the ordinary Pyracantha.
The white flowers are borne in May, and the
bright red berries, which are rather smaller
than those of the better-known species, ripen
in October. It may be planted in a shrubbery
in ordinary garden soil, or may be placed in
the open and allowed to develop as an isolated
specimen. As a wall plant it may be considered
to be of similar use to P. coccinea.
A Charming Autumn Crocus.— When at Kew
a few days ago we were very charmed with a small
bed of Crocus longiflorus situated by the Rose
pergola. Although the circular bed was barely
2 feet in diameter, there must have been well over
a hundred of the beautiful lilac blue flowers. Each
of these has a vivid orange stigma, which adds not
a little to its attractiveness. This charming
November Crocus is a native of Southern Italy,
and deserves to be cultivated wherever a sunny
spot can be devoted to it.
A Beautiful Golden Cyoress.-^Those who
APsh for a handsome and distinctive-loolang ever-
green should secure Cuptessus obtusa Crippsii.
This mnkcs a particuliily pi' as'np shrub oj
Though a very valuable plant for these purposes,
it is as an outdoor subject that its greatest beauty
is seen. Particularly happy in the town and
suburban garden as a lawn specimen or in the
shrubbery border, those who have grown it regard
Fatsia japonica as one of the most beautiful ever-
greens for London gardens, further South and in
columnar f-irm us rjther Uxisely placed branches, the West. Most attractive at all seasons with its
IV' idins the stiffness thut to many is obiectif)n- I large leathery, shiny green leaves, it is in November,
If le 'n a numficr -*r other Cupressuses. The foliage [ when flowering freely, that we see the full beauty.
is of a pleasing g.jlden shade, mixed with dark j The flowers are milky white, individually small.
green and as an isolat'"d specimen in a lawn bod
it woul'I b" pivti'ularly pleasing.
Erica Cavendishii. — This is one of the few
greenhouse Heaths, so much grown in years gone
by, that still retains its old-tim; popularity.
ERICA CAVENDISHII,
A BEAUTIFUL GREENHOUSE
GOLDEN FLOWERS.
During the season — that is to say, principally in
early summer — delightful specimens, such as are
herewith illustrated, are freely brought into
Covent Garden Market, grown either in j-inch or
6-inch pots. A notable feature of Erica Cavendishii
is the bright yellow colour of its blossoms, in which
respect it stands out markedly from all its fellows.
It is regarded by our different authorities as of
hybrid origin. These greenhouse Heaths are all
exceedingly chaste and beautiful ; but with
very few exceptions they are now seldom seen.
November - Flowering Evergreen Shrub. —
Under the several names of Fatsia japonica, Aralia
japonica, A. Sieboldii and the Castor Oil Plant, a
very valuable Japanese plant is grown extensively
in pots for greenhouse and room decoration.
but very freely and effectively produced in large
branching inflorescences on bushes 4 feet to
8 feet or more in height.
Pear Crossed with Quince. — At a recent
meeting of the scientific committee of the
Royal Horticultural Society, Mr.
"" ; J. C. AUgrove of the Langley
Nursery showed several fruits of
^ the Pear raised by Mr. John Seden
' from the Pear Bergamotte Esperen
crossed with pollen from Portugal
Quince (see Journal of the Royal
' Horticultural Society,
Vol. XXXIII., pages clxvii. and
clxxi). The fruits of this type are
essentially Pears, very similar in
shape and appearance to Easter
Beurre, very short-stalked,
roundish, and plentifully dotted
all over with large dots. The
flavour is good and the Pear
ripens long before its Pear
parent Bergamotte Esperen, being
fit to eat at the end of Octc-
ber. It will be remembered
that the other plant raised from
the same fruit was Quince-like
ill form, and never becomes soft.
A Useful Evergreen Climber.
During spring and summer, when
are full of other flowers,
and ornamental foliage plants
as Smilax are often overlooked. We were recently
admiring some white Chrysanthemums growing
in front of some Smilax against a wall, and the
effect of them against the dark background was
very striking. The Smilax may not be perfectly
hardy in all parts of the country, but if placed
against a wall in well-drained soil and covered
with pieces of stone, through which the young
Asparagus-like shoots are not slow to appear.
Should they be cut to the ground during
severe weather, they soon sprout up again.
Smilax Cantab, S. laurifolia, S. rotundifolia,
S. excelsa, S. aspera, S. tamnoides and S. glauca
are a few of the best.
HEATH WITH
our
such
gardens
useful
564
THE GARDEN.
[November 21 1914.
{Tiu
CORRESPONDENCE.
Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents. )
Nerines. — There were one or two pretty displays
of this delightful autumn-flowering plant at the
Royal Horticultural Society's show on the
3rd inst., and there is little wonder that each
succeeding year sees the Nerine more and more
to the fore. Messrs. Barr made a departure by
exhibiting cut spikes in vases with fronds of
Adiantum ; but I still think the method of showing
the plants in their small pots as grown the more
attractive one. Anyone with a little, greenhouse
space to spare can grow the Nerine, and it is the
plant par excellence for the intelligent amateur
who would like to devote his spare time
in the fall of theyear to a little hybridising
and seedling-raising. — F. H. C.
Saxifraga Fortune!. — I enclose a photo-
graph of Saxifraga Fortuuei, in case it
may be interesting enough to reproduce.
It was taken on October i6 last year.
This Saxifrage was planted in the autumn
of 1909, and is in a position where it only
gets late afternoon sun in the winter,
though in the summer it has sun nearly
all day. This year it again has two
spikes of flower, but they are not nearly
as tall. — CoNST.\NXE Fawkes, Bayshill,
Cheltenham.
Winter-Flowering Begonias. — In the
issue of The Garden for November 7 I
expressed regret at the'dispersal of Messrs.
Veitch's fine collection of these beautiful
flowers. There is apparently, however, a
successor within the' London area ; for at
the meeting held at the Royal Horticultural
Hall on November 3, Messrs. Stuart Low
and Co. of Enfield exhibited a group of
the best forms. It is to be hoped that
the mantle of Messrs. Veitch will descend
upon the new-comers in this line, and that
Messrs. Low will be as successful as were
their predecessors in ^the production of
new varieties. — H. P.
Vitis Thomsoni. — The past hot summer
has been followed by fine autumn tints.
Vitis Thomsoni . is now a brilliant red,
a' most as bright as Vitis inconstans
(Ampelopsis Veitchi), and, strange to say,
though growing for many years on this
house, it has never before attained the
Sime rich colour. It is the more acceptable
now, most of the leaves of the Virginian
Creeper and Ampelopsis Veitchi having
fallen. Vitis Thomsoni is also a contrast to other
climbers in summer from its very dark green leaves
and its graceful habit of gi-owth. Our plant covers
a considerable space of wall. — J. H. W. Thomas.
Moss on Tennis Court.— Your correspondent
" G. J." evidently has to deal with a sand court
situated in a somewhat damp spot, and conse-
quently the recurrence of moss is not to be pre-
vented by one operation, as is evidenced by the
statement that weed-killer has failed. A cheap
and effective remedy would be to apply now a
dressing of powdered lime, and in a fortnight's
time to follow this with a similar dressing of
common salt. Soiled salt can be purchased
very cheaply for this purpose. Three to four ounces
to the square yard will be necessary for each
dressing if the mossy growth is dense. A few
days after applying the salt the court should be
well swept with a stiff broom. Treated thus,
moss will be kept at bay for a considerable time ;
but as soon as signs of a fresh growth appear,
another application is necessary. — Heather Bell.
Propagating Perpetual-Flowering Carnations.
Seeing that this question has cropped up again
through the notes of Mr. Brotherston, I venture
to repeat that the commercial grower long since
satisfied himself as to the advantage of striking
cuttings in January or February rather than in
the autumn. If autumn rooting gave better
plants, surely the men whose combined cultures
must total millions of plants would not adopt
spring rooting. In the first place, taking of cut-
tings in the autumn means so many fewer blooms
in the winter from the stock plants. Furthermore,
autumn-struck cuttings have to face a period of
SAXIFRAGA
FORIUNEI IN MRS. FAWKES
BAYSHILL, CHELTENHAM.
GARDEN AT
dull weather and shortening days. It is idle to
claim that autumn-struck plants will give a greater
crop in a given period, for the commercial man
is out for quantity as well as quality. The spring-
struck plant commences to crop by early October,
often earlier, and if the variety is not addicted
to coming in crops, it will never cease blooming
until thrown out. On a great commercial grower's
showing we know that a January or February
struck plant will outyield an autumn-struck one
over a given period ; and considering the fact
that this type of Carnation is never at rest, why
advocate a method that entails one winter over and
above what is essential in a plant's life-history ? I
am prepared to agree that late summer-struck cut-
tings arc better for open ground culture and infinitely
more easy for the amateur to handle. Incidentally,
I might mention that I had on November 9
several first-rate blooms of Britannia on plants that
have been in a bed for the past eighteen months.
This variety is superior to any other Perpetual-
flowering Carnation for the open ground, as it
does not rot so freely in damp weather. — T. A. W.
Myosotidium nobile from Seed. — The value
of seeds as a means of increase is very great —
greater, perhaps, than in these days is recognised,
when we have become so dependent on plants to
name derived from cuttings or similar means of
propagation. This sentence will serve as an intro-
duction to what I want to write about Myosotidium
nobile, a note concerning which you were good
enough to publish earlier in the year. I received
the plant just twelve months ago, taken up from
the garden of the late Miss Patricia Dalrymple,
with whom for many long years I had carried on
a reciprocal give-and-take in garden and
greenhouse plants. This, the last of her
gifts, I should have been more than sony
to have lost, and though the plant thrives
here and there in Scotland in the more
genial parts, I was dubious about trust-
ing it to the mercy of our east winds,
notorious for their cutting properties. So
I saved all the seeds the plant had
matiured in the early summer and had
them sown directly. Some germmated
in a short time, and the seedlings have
been appearing a few at a time up till
the present. The plants from the first
and second batches are in 9-inch and
lo-inch pots, with foliage almost as large
as that produced by the parent plant.
I am now anticipating the appearance
of flower-spikes before very long, and
anyhow shall have the pleasure of plant-
ing a lot of the seedlings in selected
positions out of doors. I knew the con-
ditions under which this plant thrives
in its native island — loose sandy soil by
the seaside — so the seeds were sown in
leaf-soil and loam, and the plants have
been potted in about equal parts of the
same material, only with lumps of turf
instead of loam for the larger plants.
The compost was only slightly firmed,
and the plants are growing in a cool
house with abundance of fresh air blowing
about them. At Enys I believe the
Myosotidium borders are regularly dressed
with seaweed, but I do not know that
this is essential. We have here plenty
of flaky leaf-soil, w'hich I hope to
utilise when planting. It proves splendid
rooting material, is fairly lasting, and
retains moisture for a long time once
it is wet, having previously been made very
firm. — R. P. Brotherston.
Mildew-Proof Roses. — My experience has
taught me that few such varieties exist, and I
lay the blame, chiefly, at the door of those who
raise our new Roses. The idea to-day stems to
be to get a new thing, something fresh, .and it is
very questionable — judging by the behaviour
of many recent varieties — whether the possibility
of being mildew-resistent is ever considered.
Admitting this, however, there is still much to
be said for the varying districts and positions
iu which Roses are grown. The same varieties
.are far freer from its onslaught in some places
than others, Mildew-proof climbing Roses with
us arc American Pillar, Blush Rambler, Fclici16
Perpetue, Jersey Beauty and Psyche. Small-
flowered Roses — Jfssie, Mrs. CiUbush and Orleans.
November 21, 1914-]
THE GARDEN.
565
Other varieties, such as Rosomane N. Thomas,
Irish Elegance, Dorothy Page-Roberts, General
Macarthur, Mme. EdmSe Metz, Lady A. Stanley,
Commander J. Gravereaux, Ulrich Brunner and
Miss Cynthia Forde, are also practically immune ;
while La Tosca, Mme. Ravary, Dr. Andry, Marie
Baumann, S. M. Rodocanachi, Maman Coehet
and Corallina are so very seldom attacked that
I do not hesitate to affirm them as being varieties
little predisposed to mildew. — C. Turner, Highgale.
I was much interested in the notes in
your last two issues on mildew-proof Roses. I give
below a list oi Roses which are exceptionally free
from mildew in these gardens : Lady Alice Stanley,
Reine W. Urban, Dorothy Page- Roberts, Lady
Ursula, Lady Pirrie, Margaret, Mrs. C. Allen,
M. Paul Lede, Joseph Hill, Mme. Segond Weber,
La Tosca, White Caroline Testout, Mrs. W. C.
Miller, Edu Meyer, Beauts de Lyon, Mrs. John
Laing, Chateau de Clos Vougeot, Souv. de Marie de
Zayas, Gustav Griinerwald, Helen Keller, Marjorie,
Grace Molyneux, Mrs. David McKee, Sunburst,
Lyon, Richmond, Fran L. Rautenstrauch, Countess
of Shaftesbury, Pharisaer, Duchess of Wellington
and Caroline Testout. A few of the worst offenders
here are Betty, Lady Ashtown, George Dickson,
Ethel Malcolm, Theresa, Viscountess Enfield,
Killamey, Harry Kirk and British Queen. I
may add that the soil is very wet and of a clayey
nature. — John Hextall, Dunscar Gardens,
Boltmi.
' I was more than ordinarily interested
in "Somerset's" letter, page 528 of October 31
issue, on this subject. I have until this year
been under the delusion that many varieties were
mildew-proof. I am now rather scepticaL as to
whether there are any entirely so under every
climatic condition. This year the only three
varieties that showed no trace of this dread fungus
were Gruss an Teplitz, ChSteau de Clos Vougeot
and Beaute de Lyon. Others not very seriously
attacked were General Macarthur, Mrs. Edward
Powell, Gustav Griinerwald, Mme. Melanie Soupert,
M. Paul Lede, Marquise de Sinety, Mme. Maurice
de Luze, Liberty, Mrs. David McKee, Ulrich
Brunner, J. B. Clark, Hugh Dickson and Prime-
rose. All the others of our 170 odd varieties were
more or less seriously disfigured. The worst
probably were Mme. Ravary, Frau Karl Druschki,
George Dickson, Mrs. R. G. Sharman Crawford,
Mrs. A. R. Waddell, Killamey, Juliet, Mme.
Abel Chatenay, Viscountess Folkestone, and
York and Lancaster. I never before saw the
last named so seriously attacked. Late in the
season I noticed the soft points of Dorothy Perkins
on arches become quite white with mildew, but
Lady Gay on a west wall showed but small traces
of the disease. The Scotch Briars kept wonder-
fully healthy. Like " Somerset," I have no
faith in any of the so-called specifics. I tried
several this season, and found them as effective
as cold water. If raisers cannot produce mildew-
proof varieties, can nobody invent a really certain
pure ? — C, Blatr, Preston Gardens, Linlithgow.
THE BOG GARDEN AND ITS
FORMATION.
o
FORTHCOMING EVENTS.
November 30. — National Chrysanthemum
Society's Floral Committee Meeting, Essex Hall,
Essex Street, Strand, London, W.C, 4 p.m. The
public will be admitted free.
December i. — Royal Horticultural Society's
Exhibition of British-grown Fruit, Royal Horti-
cultural Hall, Vincent Square, Westminster,
J p.m. to 4.30 p.ni;
the many phases of open - air
gardening, none, perhaps, is fraught
with greater possibilities, and none,
certainly, possessed of greater
charms, than the bog garden if
well and rightly conceived. It is
in this type of garden that we see plants grow,
flourish and blossom that too frequently are met
languishing for the moisture they love in the open
border. Indeed, one of the great charms of bog
gardening is that the plants thrive and grow apace,
and that nothing droops or dies, simply because
the subjects are rightly placed and constantly
provided with the moisture so essential to their
well-being. But in the bog garden, as in all else,
there is just the possibility of the strong crowding
out the weak — just the possibility that by one
false step, made unwittingly, a plant may be intro-
duced that may pro*'^ a nuisance for years. Hence,
at the outset, there is .the same need for discretion
and for that close, intimate loiowledge of the
subjects chosen for the work, of their slow or quick
growth as well as their ultimate development, as
there is in any other phase of gardening work.
The host of plants benefiting by constant
supplies of moisture during a hot season may
tempt some to introduce those that intrude their
presence in all directions, or that quickly choke
or overrun others whose finer attributes render
them far more desirable for such a place. Of such
as the former rriany examples might be given,
though one, the Epilobiums, will suffice for all
purposes. Here we have a small group- of rapidly
increasing plants that appear to grow all the year
round, sending out such vigorous stolons or under-
ground shoots or stems which, springing up some
distance from the original, soon make their presence
felt in their new homes. For such as these, then,
welcome as they are in the wild garden, there is
no room — there should certainly be no place — in
the bog garden we have in mind, and no quarter
should be given to the smallest seedling which
might appear. Thus it will be seen that, in our
opinion, a bog garden should not be a sort of
dumping-ground for any and every moisture-
loving plant ; rather should it be a spot — an
adjunct to the garden proper if you will — to be
enriched and beautified with the choicer subjects
of other climes as well as those of our own land,
subjects which, revelling in moisture, know no
happier place than the natural bog.
But some may say, very few gardens are
possessed of or include a naturally boggy spot ;
hence, if we would grow such things as delight
therein, an artificial substitute must be arranged. I
In connection with tliis not infrequent question
arises the all-important point as to whether the
abode for such plants must be made water-tight.
The correct answer depends not a little on the
available supply of water and equally on the
nature of the subsoil. Where a retentive, plastic
clay soil exists, a veritable driblet or trickle of
water will maintain the soil in a state of semi-
saturation, sufficient, indeed, for all purposes.
On the other hand, where the subsoil is of sand or
gravel, a slight excavation of this will be required
to admit of the introduction of well-tempered clay,
than which nothing is so good or so natural. A
lowering, too, of the ultimate surface soil is desirable
in those instances where a light soil obtains, to
admit of the water from the rainfall finding its
way into the bed.
In all large gardens in liilly districts, the forming
of an artificial bog garden or bed is quite an easy
matter. The ideal condition for such is when a
fountain basin exists on the terrace lawn, with
the overflow tumbling into a rock garden pool a
few feet below, and in turn trickling away into
the woodland lower down, where it can be used to
advantage for the purpose we have in mind. In
just these happy circumstances, many years ago
I spent much time in adding beauty to a phase of
gardening not then common, and where the founder
of the garden delighted on occasion to roam. An
opening in the wood gave all that was desirable,
and with sun and warmth and varying degrees
of moisture a large area was furnished with the
plants varying from such carpeting subjects as
Anagallis tenella, Sibthorpia europaja, Linnaa
borealis and Pratia angulata to the giant Royal
Fern, Osmunda regalis, of several feet high and
through.
There are also peat-loving and loam-loving
plants, handsome Lilies as pardalinum and
supsrbum that reflect their greatest beauty in
the woodland bog garden, while dozens of others.
Primulas, Trilliuras, Sarracenias, Pamassias,
Dodecatheons, Cypripediums in variety, Saxi-
fraga Hirculus, Marsh Marigolds, Orchises, Pingui-
culas, Droseras and the like, may all be grown to
perfection in a few square feet of bog. There are,
of course. Primulas such as P. japonica and Saxi-
fragas such as peltata that are not quite suited to
the smallest of these bog-beds, unless, indeed,
they be given place at the outer margins where
the chief supply of moisture enters. Just what
is suited to any and every case will, of course,
depend entirely upon circumstances. Happily
there are plant giants Uke the Gunnera, Osmunda
and Spiraea, together with the miniatures I have
ahready named, that make bog gardening possible
in large and small gardens alike, and where the
plants of our own marshes and woods may, with
others from the higher mountains of Europe and
elsewhere, jointly play their part in making this
aspect of gardening one of the most fascinating
of the year. E. H. Jenkins.
AUTUMN FRUITING STRAW
BERRIES FOR AMATEURS.
T
HIS season, in many parts of the
country, has been a favourable one
for the ripening of late fruits ; and,
in addition, the plants have made
fine crowns and promise well for the
future. There are now several dis-
tinct autumn-fruiting varieties, and they can be
grown at a small cost as regards labour and space,
so that they should in the future become better
kno%\'n. Since the advent of the earliest intro-
duction, St. Joseph— raised in France by crossing
a true alpine with a garden variety, which fur-
nished us with an entirely new race of autumn
fruits— -have come the larger St. Antoine de
Padoue, of which St. Joseph is one of the parents
and the popular Royal Sovereign the other ; and
Laxton's Perpetual, in which also the popular
St. Joseph has been used as one parent and the
large Monarch or summer fruiter the other, and
it is certainly a fine fruit of the autumn type,
richer than St, Antoine de Padoue and the shape
more after Monarch, with a deep. red. colour and
566
THE GARDEN.
[November 21, 1914.
good flavour. Doubtless the varieties before
noted are only the forerunners of a distinct type
of autumn-fruiting Strawberries.
Of other alpine forms there are some good
varieties, such as Alpine White or the Blanc
Ameliore of the French ; Bergeri, a rich crimson,
medium-sized fruit and a very free bearer ; and
one that is a great favourite at Gtmnersbury
House called The Gunnersbury, a large, long fruit,
deep red and very prolific.
Of true perpetual types, a year or two ago
I noted a fine lot of Alphonse XIII., a round,
white-fleshed fruit, rich and good ;
but white fruits do not find much
fivour in this country, and I
prefer the larger Louis Gauthier,
a pale white with pinkish shade
and of excellent flavour. '>'
In the culture of these Straw-
berries the work, to yield a late
supply, should be varied. For use
in August and September I prefer
an open, sunny quarter, and if the
runners are planted in well-culti-
vated soil enriched with manure,
they %vill give an early crop. For
instance, runners planted in the
autumn will give a full crop in
August and September of the
following year. I have planted in
April and had a good autumn
supply. As I have previously
noted, the perpetuals are mostly
of compact habit ; but there is no
gain in crowding, as the fruit is
produced at a season when the
days are shortening and the sim
less powerful. It is an advantage
to give room, so that the fruits
are freely exposed. If planted in
rows 18 inches apart and zz inches
is allowed between the plants, this
will sufiice, but I prefer more room
between the pjants in the row.
Runners are produced freely,
and these may be detached from
the plants and put into 3-inch pots
when ready, and when strong
enough placed in 5-inch pots for
November supplies, removing the
flowers as they show till the end of
August. I prefer to plunge the
pots, as it saves watering. These
plants, if placed on shelves early
in October, will give the latest
fruits, and they will take
liberal supplies of food. Another
plan, and one that will meet
with more general approval, is to
pot up strong runners in June or
July direct into the fruiting pots
and grow on a cool coal-ash base
through the summer, keeping them clear
runners and flowers till the end of August, or
even later for a November supply. When housed
the plants require very little warmth to set and
swell up their trusses ; 50° to 60° is ample, and
they do well on shelves. If grown in a frame,
moisture must be given sparingly when the weather
is stmlcss, and the plants should be near the
light and ventilated freely in fine weather. Plants
may be placed in frames in October and merely
sheltered from heavy rains, transferring them
to the shelves as required ; by this means fruit
may be had in December.
In the open, runners planted in autumn fruit
early in August, and spring runners give a later
crop, but here the same procedure is required as
regards removing the earlier blossoms to get the
fruits at the season required. G. W.
PEAR CHARLES ERNEST.
.Although this Pear is not yet widely known, it
is an excellent dessert variety, and fruits well
grown in almost any form. In the accompanying
illustration it is depicted as a pyramid, a type of
tree that is admirably adapted for small gardens.
GARDENS OF TO-DAY.
A MC
A
is the
modem
A YOUNG PYRAMID TREE OF PEAR CHARLES ERNEST. THIS IS A
GOOD DESSERT VARIETY AND NOW IS THE TIME TO PLANT.
of
In appearance the fruit resembles that of Souvenii
du Congres ; the flesh is snow white, juicy and
melting, and the flavour refreshing and excellent.
It is in season during November and December.
When shown before the Royal Horticultural
Society in 1900, this Pear received a first-class
certificate, and experience gained since then
proves that the honour was well deserved. As
the planting season is now with us, those who are
desirous of adding to their existing varieties should
certainly give Charles Ernest a place. It was
raised by M. Ernest Baltet of Troyes, France,
and first put into commerce by him in 1879.
BOSAHAN, CORNWALL.
MONG the many beautiful and interesting
gardens to be found in the county
of Cornwall, few possess greater
charm or wealth of rare \egetation
than Bosahan, or the House on the
Haven. The present mansion, which
seat of Sir Arthur Vivian, is quite
having been built by himself and
Lady Jane Vivian about thirty years ago on the
site of an old and historic resi-
dence, and it would be difficult
to find a situation that is at
once so secluded and yet com-
mands such a wonderful view
of the English Channel. Bosahan
is situated on a narrow point of
rocky land that stretches well
out into the Channel, and to
reach it the visitor either has
to cross that arm of the sea
known as Helford Passage or
take a long overland route vid
Helston. It is not our inten-
tion, however, to dwell upon the
natural beauties to be seen in
this comer of our westernmost
county, but to give a few details
of the many interesting features
to be found in the gardens that
surround the mansion and ex-
tend for a considerable distance
into delightfully wooded vales
beyond.
Near the main entrance to the
house the first object that attracts
and holds the interest of the
visitor is a magnificent hedge
of Fuchsia Riccartonii about
twelve feet high and half that
in diameter, while many of the
plants possess stems as thick as
one's wrist. Near by is another
magnificent hedge of Escallonia
macrantha, flourishing as only this
plant does in such favoured locali-
ties. The walls of Bosahan are
clothed with a fine assortment
of rambling plants, and we were
particularly interested in won-
derful e.xamples of Cassia corj-m-
bosa, Bougainvillea glabra, SoUya
heterophylla, Tibouchina macran-
tha, Solanum jasminoides, Lapa-
geria rosea and Benthamia
fragifera that were all in perfect
health on the wall facing south.
On the south-west front we were
interested to find a tine specimen
of Rose Mme. Lambard that
had attained a height of 30 feet, and which
at the time of our visit (early .-^pril) was in
full flower. Oestrum purpurea, Lonicera Hilde-
brandtii and a fine Pittosporum were other plants,
that called for special mention on this wall.
The Fern and Goodah Glens. — To the visitor from
less favoured localities the Tree Fems at Bosahan
are one of the most interesting features. These
are grown in two chamiing glens, through the
whole course of which a gentle stream of crystal
water wends its musical way to the sea. The
trees in these glens are mostly tall Oaks with
moss-grown stems, which stand like sentinels
November 21, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
567
over the host of choice Rhododendrons, Bamboos,
Dracffinas and scores of Chamaerops excelsa.
These, in the partly subdued light, impart quite
a subtropical appearance to the glens, while ever
and anon the visitor comes face to face with
magnificent colonies of Tree Ferns. Bordering
the sea and leading from one glen into another
of similar size is a charming woodland walk,
overhung by Hazel boughs and Hawthorn, and
studded on each side with Narcissi and Primroses,
planted first of all with a lavish hand by man
and subsequently in riotous profusion by Nature.
This second glen, which leads the visitor back
towards the mansion, is in many ways a replica
of the first, except that more water is present,
thus enabling some very fine grouping of Japanese
Irises to be carried out. Bamboos, Palms and
Tree Ferns abound on every hand, and the accom-
panying illustration, from a photograph taken in
this glen, will give our readers some
slight idea of the dimensions that
the Tree Ferns attain.
Leaving this second glen and
travelling towards the mansion, the
visitor passes along an avenue of
Palms to the Lapageria walk, where
these plants, both white and red
flowered forms, iiing their slender
shoots in great profusion over trellis
and pergola, constructed of home-
grown Bamboos, while, near by.
Clematis indivisa, with its myriads of
dainty white flowers, may be seen
scrambling over the branches of tall
trees situated near by. On a wall
that extends from the Lapageria walk
we were pleased to notice Abutilon
megapotamicum in flower, and Mr.
Chapell, the head-gardener, informed
us that it had bloomed all the winter,
as had a magnificent specimen of
Clianthus Dampieri, the first bloom
of which opened on November 26.
In still closer proximity to the
house is a spacious, sloping la^vn, in
the beds of which a wonderful col-
lection of rare trees and shrubs
finds a home. A few of the more
interesting of these at the time of
our visit were Drimys Winteri, a
beautiful seedling Acacia, Plagianthus
velutinus (which had made a fine tree
and flowered freely the previous year),
Clethra arborea, a magnificent plant
of Rhododendron ferrugineum, the
Loquat (Eriobotrya japonica), afine tree of Emboth-
rium coccineum, Pittosporum speciosus (with dark
green foliage that has beautiful silvery tomentum
on the under surface and flowers of deep blood
red), Brachyglottis repanda, a fine plant of Feijoa
sellowiana, Magnolia Campbellii (which blooms
here). Eucalyptus globulus (over 70 feet high)
and Drimys aromatica. Rhododendron Nuttallii
blossoms in the open here. By the margins
of a natural-looking pool situated in this la\vn
Royal Ferns, Gunneras and numerous other
moisture-loving plants flourish in abundance,
imparting to the whole an air of tranquillity that
is too often missing in otherwise excellent gardens.
A great deal more might be said about the
treasures to be found in the gardens and glens at
Bosahan, but enough has been mentioned to
indicate what a vast amotint of enjoyment awaits
the plant-lover who is fortunate enough to visit
this most delectable spot in a far-off and too-
little-known corner of England. Before closing,
we would express our thanks to Sir Arthur Vivian
for allowing us to see his many treasures and to
place particulars of a few, at least, of them before
our readers. Our thanks are also due to the
steward, Mr. Cranford, who went to Bosahan
when Sir Arthur built the house ; and to the head-
gardener, Mr. Chapell, for their courtesy so freely
extended to us.
THE ORIENTAL POPPIES.
The large-flowered herbaceous plants known under
the general name of Oriental Poppies form one
of the brightest and most interesting features
of our borders and large lawn beds during the
month of June, the floral display sometimes
being prolonged well into July. The old scarlet
flower, with its boss of black anthers, has for many
CROCUS SUSIANUS.
Although not a flower that everyone would care
to grow, this charming little Crocus is a great
favourite with many. It is frequently referred
to as Cloth of Gold, but it is necessary to see
its flowers fully opened to recognise it by this
name. To the writer the blossoms of this Crocus
are most pleasing before they open wide, i.e.,
just as they push up from the rather inconspicuous
tuft of delicate green leaves. When in this con-
dition the beautiful markings on the outsides
of the floral segments are seen to the best advantage.
These take the form of perpendicular blotches
of deep g"ossy bronze maroon, one to each segment,
and between these blotches the orange yellow
basal colour shows itself in a most attractive
manner. This little Crocus is a native of the
TREE FERNS GROWING IN THE OPEN IN THE GARDENS AT BOSAHAN, CORNWALL.
years been a familiar plant to us all ; but during
the last decade a number of other varieties, differing
chiefly in the colour of their blossoms, have been
raised and put into commerce^ Unforttmately,
some of these are not good garden plants, inasmuch
as their flowers lack that clearness of colour that
is essential in plants suitable for adding beauty
to the outdoor garden. One of the best of the
new-comers is Jeannie Mawson. This has large,
bold flowers of rich salmon pink tint, with purple
blotches at the bases of the petals. Cerise Beauty,
as its name implies, is coloured cerise pink, and
is a most attractive flower when well grown.
In Princess Ena we have a light orange salmon
Poppy of great charm, and one that is delightful
as a cut flower. In common with other members
of the family, the Oriental Poppies should be cut
just when the buds are bursting. They will then
open freely in water and reveal to the fullest
extent the delicate beauty of the crimped petals.
Crimea, and although it has been knoivn in this
country for a long time, it does not appear to
have made any great headway in popular favour.
It opens its blossoms during the early part of
February, and this year one plant in my garden
was flowering before January had departed. It is
one of the best Crocuses for planting in grass,
but, like all of its kin, it should be given a sunny
position. Grown in shallow pans or pots in a
cold frame or a quite cool greenhouse, it is a
charming little plant for indoor decoration, where
its rather delicate beauty can be developed to
the full without fear of injury by birds or uncon-
genial weather. In common with most, if not
all, other Crocuses, it will not stand hard
forcing ; it should be allowed to develop under as
natural and cool conditions as possible. Corms
can be purchased very cheaply, and it is not yet
too late to plant, though the earlier they are put
in the better. H.
568
THE GARDEN.
[November 21, 1914.
AOSE-GROWING IN TOWN
GARDENS.
GOOD red Roses are always welcome,
and most to-ivn gardeners are glad
of an opportunity to add to their
collections. ReaUy fine novelties
of this colouring are certainly
scarce among the Hybrid Teas,
and we must still look to the future for perfection.
Of recent introductions the majority have been
bedding Roses, and, of these, one of the best is
Mrs. Edward Powell. In colour it is described
as scarlet, shaded with purpUsh crimson, but this
description hardly does it justice, for the crimson
predominates and the shade is
entirely pleasing, wliich means that
the purple is scarcely perceptible.
Growth and habit are both excel-
lent, but perhaps the finest feature
of this Rose is its beautiful
foUage, of a rich reddish brown in
the new growth, changing to a
deep bronzy green as it hardens.
It is affected hardly at aU by
mildew, and, being very free
flowering, the variety is one that
may be confidently recommended
for towns.
From the Rose-grower's point
of view, the present season has
been chiefly remarkable for its
several prolonged periods of dry-
ness. One effect of this has been
to bring out in many kinds the
good points which are only sus-
pected in a more humid season.
Roses such as the Cochets and
Mme. Constant Soupert, which
are naturally bad openers, have
given no trouble at all, while
even Souvenir de Pierre Netting,
worst of all good Roses in tliis
respect, has expanded quite freely
almost throughout the season. If
dry weather benefits some Roses,
there are many that it affects
adversely. Kinds which are
described as good in a cool season,
it may safely be assumed, will
not show to great advantage
when conditions are the reverse.
Captain Hayward, Frau Karl
Druschki and Lady Ashtown, to
mention only three, are among
those likely to suffer, while the
Idnds with but few rows of petals,
sucli as Mme. Melanie Soupert and
Betty, are so soon over that their full beauty can
hardly be seen.
f' A propos of thin Roses, there are now many
beautiful singles which are rightly appreciated
both for their effect in the garden and for decora-
tion indoors. Of the " Irish " family, one cannot
but think that Irish Elegance still retains first
place. Irish Fireflame does not appear to find
the English climate as favourable as that of its
native land. As to whether these kinds are suitable
for town gardens is a question which depends
greatly upon the space at one's disposal. To
be seen at its best, Irish Elegance needs to be
massed in a bed of fair size. It is a large grower,
and this, as well as the delicacy of its colouring,
make it difficult to group with other Roses ; but
those who can spare the room should certainly
have a bed of it, even if it consists of only half
a dozen plants.
Red-Letter Day, another of Messrs. Ale.x.
Dickson and Sons' productions, is one of the most
beautiful and conspicuous semi-double Roses, and
shows to great advantage even in a small group
of plants, the colour being a particularly warm
shade of scarlet crimson. P. L. Goddard.
ROSE NERISSA.
This charming Hybrid Tea Rose was raised by
Messrs. William Paul and Sons of Waltham Cross,
and when first shown by them in 1 911 was promptly
noted as a superb addition to Roses of creamy
SEASONABLE NOTES
VEGETABLES.
ON
ROSE NERISSA, A BEAUTIFUL CREAMY YELLOW HYBRID TEA
yellow tint. Since then I have been able to test
it and in that way prove its capabilities, especially
as a garden variety. It has a vigorous habit, and
the exquisitely shaped flowers are borne on long,
stout stems ; hence it is particularly valuable for
cutting. The exhibitor will find it a most useful
variety, as the blooms, in addition to their perfect
shape, always possess plenty of fulness and sub-
stance. When shown before the Royal Horti-
cultural Society on July 18, igrr. this Rose
received an award of merit, a distinction that was
undoubtedly well deserved. The accompanying
illustration gives a good idea of the superb
shape and fulness of the flowers, though it cannot
convey the refinement that is so characteristic of
this variety. H.
Asparagus. — As the tops are now thoroughly
ripened, they should be cut off within 2 inches
of the soil. Clear the beds of weeds, lightly fork
or hoe over the surface, and cover the beds to a
depth of 2 inches with half-decayed farmyard
manure. If the beds are to be made extra tidy,
cover the manure with a tbm layer of soil from
the alleys between the beds, chopping domr the
sides neatly. If strong crowns are available,
the roots may be lifted and forced for an early
supply. A hot-bed in a pit or cold frame is a
suitable site. Collect the necessary material — long,
strawy manure from the stable. Oak
and Beech leaves — and throw it
into a heap to induce it to fer-
ment, when the bed can be made
on which the frame is to stand.
Note the temperature in the frame,
and when it declines to about 65'
the soil and roots should be put in.
Three inches of compost — old
potting soil, leaf-mould and finelv
sifted horse-manure — will suffice.
A thickness of 3 inches under
the roots and 2 inches over them
when placed in position as near
together as possible, without
being overcrowded, will answer
well. Keep the frame close until
growth commences ; then give a
little air. Syringe the soil twice
daily with tepid water. Main-
tain a temperature in the frame
of 60° by the aid of outside
linings of fresh manure and cover-
ing the glass with mats.
Lettuce. — Continue to prick out
small plants in frames for future
use, covering the soil with coal-
ashes to prevent slugs devouring the
plants. When these are established,
give abundance of air to induce
sturdy growth, removing the lights
entirely when the weather is favour-
able. When there is a danger of
the supply outside running short,
remove a batch of plants to
a frame, as there they will grow
more quickly.
Celery. — ^The last earthmg of the
latest crop should be completed
without delay, sloping the soil
on each side of the rows sharply
to prevent heavy rains getting
down to the hearts of the
plants in quantity, as in the case of heavy soil an
excess of moisture is harmful. A supply of long
litter, straw or Bracken should be at hand for
covering the rows in case of severe frost setting in.
Tomatoes. — Young plants intended for fruiting
during February or March next year should be
kept near the glass in a buoyant atmosphere
and a temperature of not less than 60°. Those
plants with fruit now ripening should have a light
position near the glass in a temperature of not less
than 65', witli a rather dry atmosphere,
Autumn-Sown Onions are looking remarkably
well. The seed germinated satisfactorily, and now
there is an abundant supply of green Onions
suitable for salads, in addition to the quantity
required for the usual crop. Keep the plants
November 21, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
569
I
I
free from weeds, so that the growth from now
onwards will be of a stocky character.
Cauliflowers of the Autumn Giant or Self-
Protecting type not sufficiently advanced for
cutting should be lifted and heeled in in cold
frames or at the foot of a south wall, where they
can easily be protected in the case of sharp frost.
Plants intended for putting out early next year
should be potted singly in 3-inch pots and plunged
in coal-ashes in a cold frame, drawing off the lights
as the weather permits to encourage sturdy growth.
Mushrooms. — Continue to prepare the manure for
additional beds by frequent turning, so as to let off
surplus steam and heat. Spawn earlier-made beds
as soon as the temperature declines to 75°, using
pieces of spawn 2 inches square every 9 inches
A ROSEMARY FOR THE
ROCK GARDEN.
Even during its brightest periods the rock garden
owes something to the dwarf-growing shrubs
which are usually planted between tjje large
boulders, and during the winter and late summer
months such shrubs relieve to a great extent
the bareness that is frequently associated with
the rock garden at those seasons. A charming
little shrub for this purpose, and one that does
not seem to be at all well known, is the dwarf
form of the common Rosemary kno\vn as Ros-
marinus prostrata. This has the old-world
fragrance that renders the taller-growing kind
or it might with advantage be planted by a door-
step where the tall-growing kind cannot be accom-
modated. Sweet-smelling shrubs are none too
plentiful, and we ought to make the fullest use
of those which are available.
THE SUNK GARDEN AT
SUTTON PLACE.
No doubt the si.xteenth century gardens of Sutton
Place, Surrey, were furnished with a richness
which matched the splendid architecture of the
liouse, but few traces of them were visible when
Lord Northcliffe made it his home. It fell to
THE NEW SUNK GARDEN AT SUTTON PLACE, SURREY.
apart, burying the spawn in the bed about two
inches deep. Sprinkle over the surface of the bed
a small quantity of prepared manure, finally ram-
ming the whole down firmly with a brick. Soiling
should not be done for a few days after spawning.
The soil being in a moist state, it is easily smoothed
over and made firm with the back of a spade.
Finally cover the bed with litter to prevent
the soil drying too rapidly.
Cardoons. — ^The latest batch of plants should
be prepared for blanching, as growth is now almost
completed. Wrap around each stem a piece of
brown paper 6 inches wide, covering this with
a hay-band tightly woven around, and finally
bank up with soil.
Swanmorc. E. Molyneu.x.
so delightful, and, indeed, only differs from it
in habit and somewhat smaller foliage. Instead
of forming the columnar bushes that we so often
see in old-fashioned cottage gardens, the prostrate
variety keeps close to Mother Earth, and at all
seasons is a source of satisfaction to its owner.
In late spring, when lavishly bedecked with its
quaint lavender blue flowers, this little shrub
is second to none. It should be given a rather
warm position and porous soil, yet it ought not
to be so placed that it will suffer from drought
during the scorching days of summer. If these
points are borne in mind, it is not more difficult
to grow than the tall Rosemary, and need not be
confined to the rock garden. For instance, as an
edging to the herb garden it would be delightful.
Lady Northcliffe to employ her charming taste
in recreating a fitting garden frame for the Tudor
building. To the west of the office quadrangle
there remained the old walled gardens. An
octagonal summer-house stood at their northern
intersection. It is probably the oldest garden
feature remaining at Sutton, and is seen in the
accompanying picture, which also shows a modem
shelter designed on the same lines. The enclosure
has been laid out with delightful effect. A square
panel has been sunk, and its dry retaining walls
are gay with alpines. In the middle is a roimd
pool, its margin planted with Iris Kasmpferi and
other water-loving things. Sheltered beneath the
walls are broad herbaceous borders filled with
tall-growing plants.
570
THE GARDEN.
[November 21, 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruit Under Glass.
Fruit Trees in Pots which are still in the open
should be placed in a bed of ashes and plunged
to the rims of the pots as a protection from frost,
and a further covering of leaves should afterwards
be placed over the surface when sharp frost sets
in. If American blight is present on the Apple
trees, they may be carefully dressed with some
approved preparation while the trees are dormant.
Peach and Nectarine trees in pots which are
intended for succession should now be placed
under cover and the ventilators left open during
mild weather.
Tomatoes. — A sowing ought to be made now
to produce plants for spring fruiting. As soon
as the young plants are well through the surface
they should be placed quite close to the roof
glass in a temperature of 60°. Pot into small,
clean pots as soon as large enough. Endeavour
to grow the plants as stocky and short-jointed
as possible. Plants from which fruits are being
gathered must be carefully watered throughout
the winter months, and ventilation given when
external conditions permit.
Plants Under Glass.
Plumbago rosea. — This charming winter-
flowering plant succeeds best when allowed to
remain tlirough the flowering period in a warm
conservatory or intermediate stove where the
atmosphere is somewhat dry and where a little
air can be admitted when the weather is favour-
able. If choice flowers are in demand, a very
pleasing effect may be produced bv associating
Plumbago rosea with Lily of the Valley, Roman
Hyacinths and good fronds of Adiantum.
Freesias. — .As soon as the plants are a few
inches high, they should be removed from the
cold pit to a warm greenhouse and placed near
the glass. At this stage a few twigs ought to
be placed in position to afford the necessary
support. When the pots are well filled with
roots, weak manure-water may be applied with
advantage.
Sweet Violets.— Now that the plants have become
well rooted in the new soil, it is hardly possible
to give too much air, providing the weather is
mild. At Frogmore the lights are removed
every morning and only partly closed at night
until sharp frost sets in. Remove all decaying
foliage and see that the roots are well supplied
with clear soft water.
The Flower Garden.
Lifting Chrysanthemums. — Now that the
flowering season is over, a sufficient number of
healthy roots should be lifted and placed in a
cold frame with a view to producing cuttings
for next season's stock. Bv the end of January
plenty of stocky cuttings will be available for
propagation.
Herbaceous Borders which have recently
been planted should be lightly pricked over a's
soon as possible, taking care riot to disturb any
of the newly planted subjects. A careful watch
must be kept for slugs, which will soon work
havoc if not destroyed. Borders where lifting
and dividing are unnecessary should be carefully
cut over and a dressing of decayed horse-manure
or leaf-soil lightly forked in among the plants.
Any strong-growing subjects which have grown
beyond bounds may be lifted and replanted
with a view to bringing them more in keeping with
their surroundings.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Strawberries. — .Autumn - planted strawberry
quarters will require a light forking over, but
previous to this the weeds should be removed,
and if the ground is dry enough, this ought to be
carefully trodden round the plants. Plants in older
beds which are intended to fruit another season
must be carefully trimmed up and all weeds
and decaying foliage removed. Fork the surface
very lightly, and if necessary give a light dressing
of decayed manure, to be washed into the soil
during the winter.
Raspberries. — November is the best month
to make new plantations of Raspberries. Let
the soil be trenched 2 feet deep and enriched
with good farmyard manure. To obtain the
best results it is necessary to make new plantations
every five or six years, and, in selecting the suckers
for these^ those produced by old, worn-out plants
should be avoided. It is better practice to obtain
a fresh stock from the nursery than to plant
suckers which have been grown on the same place
too long. As regards the method of planting,
the space between the rows ought to be at least
6 feet, and if double this distance so much the
better, as low-growing vegetables may be planted
between, and the crop will be much heavier and
the fruits larger in consequence of a free circtila-
tion of light and air among the plants.
The Kitchen Garden.
Seakale Forcing. — .^.s soon as the foliage has
died down, a few roots may be taken up and
placed in some dark chamber with sufficient
heat to start them into growth. If only a small
supply is necessary, the Mushroom-house is a
good place to grow it. If large pots are available,
the roots should be placed in good rich soil to
within an inch of the crown, and this made firm with
the fingers. Each pot ought to contain sufficient
roots to supply a dish of Seakale, and the pot may be
kept in perfect darkness by another of the same
size being turned upside down and covered with
clean leaves to exclude both light and air. A
temperature of 60° will be quite high enough for
the purpose. One good watermg should be
sufficient, providing the surroundings are kept
moist.
French Beans in Pots should be freely supplied
with manure-water. Keep the plants well exposed
to the light, and provide sufficient sticks to keep
the plants in an upright position. At night
60° will be a suitable temperattire for them.
Mint and Tarragon. — As soon as the foliage
has died down, a number of plants ought to be
lifted and placed over a gentle hot-bed in order
to produce green shoots for the daily supply.
The hot-bed should be trodden tightly and a
covering of sifted soil placed over the' surface.
The roots must then be put in position and
covered with 2 inches of fine leaf-soil. Water
should then be apnlied at a temperattire of 70°.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Turnips. — Any late-sown Turnips still in the
ground should now be lifted and stored in sand.
Larger quantities will keep well enough in pits
similar to those used for Potatoes. It should
be remembered that they will keep much longer
if the leaves are broken off and not cut, as is usually
done. They had better be stored where they
can be easily got at in rough weather.
Carrots in Frames. — Where the forcing of
these is intended, preparations must now be
made with that end in view. At the outset it
should be pointed out that this is a vegetable
that will not respond readily to undue forcing.
If artificial heat is not available, the frames ought
to be protected by hot-bed material, and as the
roots will be used when quite small, the frames
may be made up almost entirely of sand. From
this date a small sowing should be made every
three weeks, which in most cases meets the demand.
Broad Beans. — In view of the fact that this
crop takes a long time to come to maturity, it
is doubtful if the seeds in the majority of cases
are sown early enough. I have always advocated
the sowing of this crop in the autumn, even among
farmers, and, provided a certain amount of growth
is made before the end of the year, there is very
little danger of the crop being affected by frost.
Sowings made now should be on a warm border,
if possible sheltered from the north, and if planted
close enough, it is surprising what a useful crop
may be srcurcd quite early in the season.
The Flower Garden.
Moss on Lawns. — Should the weather be
favourable, opportunity ought to be taken to get
rid of moss patches on the lawn, which at this
season of the year are very conspicuous. For this
work a good sharp-toothed rake should be used.
going over the lawn several times. Afterwards
have the moss swept oS. In most cases the
presence of moss is a sure sign of poverty, so that
in top-dressing it will be advisable to mix some
approved lawn manure with the compost. The
compost must be spread evenly over the surface
and allowed to remain thus until the spring,
when a further dressing may be given ; then
have the lawn rolled.
Border Carnations. — Now that severe weather
may be expected, extra care should be taken to
see that these Carnations are safely guarded against
rabbits and other pests. Where it is not possible
to use wire-netting, I may repeat the advice
I gave in the spring ; that is, to stretch pieces
of string round them about six inches from the
ground, and paint the string with Renardine about
every three weeks. The possibilities are that
no further trouble need be feared. This prepara-
tion can be had from Messrs. Gilbertson and
Page, Limited, Hertford.
Herbaceous Plants. — As already pointed out,
the work of replanting some of the earlier-flowering
subjects should not be delayed, provided, of course,
the weather will permit of planting being done.
While quite a large number of herbaceous plants
may be moved about freely, there are others which
suffer more or less from disturbance. These
include Anemones, Tritomas, Lathyrus and many
others of a similar nature, and, provided the soil
is fairly good, they need not be disturbed more
than once in four or five years.
Plants Under Glass.
Forcing Plants. — Quite a number of flowering
plants may now be introduced into a heated pit
and brought on gradually. These will include
Azaleas, Deutzia gracilis and Spirseas, which are
indispensable even in the most modest collection.
Except in the case of Spiraeas, very little water
will be required at this stage ; a slight syringing
will suffice for a time. Lily of the Valley clumps
lifted from the open border may be placed in boxes,
which will supply useful flowers for cutting.
These. last somewhat longer in a cut state than
those from retarded crowns. Roman Hyacinths
should be brought on in small batches to keep up
a continuous supply.
Chrysanthemums. — As the single-stemmed varie-
ties are cut over, the plants ought to be stood
where they will be secure from frost. Place them
where they will be exposed to the light, so that
good, healthy cuttings will result. Very often the
plants are allowed to lie about in odd comers,
with the result that cuttings are worse than useless.
Plants that are shy in producing young growths
should be placed in a little heat and carefully
watered.
Cypripediums. — A number of the varieties
will now be showing flowers, and although many
of them are very erect in habit, others, again,
will be seen to better advantage if they are staked
up. Owing to the nature of the potting material,
this work must be very carefully performed,
otherwise much injury will be done to the tender
roots. Very light stakes or Bamboo tips dipped
in green paint should be used, and these ought
to be so arranged as not to detract from the beauty
of the flowers-
Liliums. — Many of the bulbs will soon be
coming to hand, and it is important that these
should be potted up almost immediately they
are received. For ordinary purposes three bulbs
in a 7-inch pot will be sufficient, and, in potting,,
place the bulbs so that ample room is left for
top-dressing. These pots ought to be stood in
frames and the plants brought on as required.
Fruit Under Glass.
Pot Vines. — Those intended to produce ripe
Grapes early in May must now be placed in the
forcing-house. The pots should be plunged in
hot-bed material made up of Oak leaves and
short litter. On no account must this bottom-
heat be allowed to become excessive at any time,
and, until the Vines start into growth, the tempera-
ture should not exceed 50°. The atmosphere
ought to be kept fairly moist and the roots syringed
with tepid water on all favourable occasions
until growth commences, Water must be given
with care, as it will be some weeks before root
action is very active.
John Hk;ug.\te.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopcloun Gardens, South Queens/err y, N.B,
November 21, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
571
CULTIVATION AND COL-
LECTION OF MEDICINAL
PLANTS IN ENGLAND.
[The following has been recently published as
Leaflet No. 288 by the Board of Agriculture.]
{Continued from page 558.)
DANDELION (TARAXACUM OFFICINALE, L.).
Dandelion has been scarce throughout 1914.
English roots have usually been sold in compe-
tition with German roots at about 40s. per cwt.,
but iios. was being paid in September. In the
early part of this year fresh root was worth 6s.
per cwt. Unless this year's collection is much
greater than usual, the absence of German compe-
tition will keep prices high. Farmers might
collect and dry the roots, or arrange with a middle-
man for this to be done for them. An advantage
of this course is that the weed is reduced.
Cultivation. — About 41b. of seeds per acre
are drilled in rows a foot apart. Hoeing is needed
to keep the crop clean. Flower-heads are picked
off as they appear, before the winged seeds can
be dispersed, otherwise the grower's own land
and that of his neighbours will be smothered
with the weed. The roots are dug the second year
in autumn. They may be transported fresh for
pressing out the juice or making dandelion extract,
or be washed, sliced and dried. The yield should
be 4 tons or 5 tons of fresh roots to the acre in
the second year. A hundred parts of fresh root
yield twenty-two parts of dry material.
FOXGLOVK (DIGITALIS PURPUREA, L.).
The Continental supplies of Digitalis leaves
from Thuringia and the Harz Mountains are
stopped, but there should be enough of the wild
plant in England to satisfy home requirements
if it can be collected. Dry wild leaves would be
worth 35s. per cwt. and upwards. Unless these
are gathered in considerable quantity; there will
be a shortage ne.xt year.
The Foxglove is cultivated by a few growers
in this country for a very limited market, in order
to provide a drug of more uniform activity from
a true type of Digitalis purpurea. Digitalis is
cultivated in the partial shade of orchards, but it
likes a moderate amount of sim. Its cultivation
as a paying proposition to a fruit-grower can
hardly be recommended. Its culture is that of
a garden plant. Digitalis grows best in a well-
drained, loose soil rich in leaf-mould. It is said
to dislike chalk, but appears to grow well enough
at Croydon and Darenth on calcareous soils.
About 2lb. of seed are required per acre, and as
the seeds are so small and light, they should be
mixed with fine sand in order to ensure even
distribution. They should be thinly covered
with soil. The seeds are uncertain in germination.
The leaves are hand picked in the second year
from flowering plants, the yield being about
I ton to 2 tons of fresh leaves per acre. Great
care is necessary in collecting and drying quickly,
and a reputation for care is necessary if the crop
is to be sold at remunerative prices.
DILL (PEUCEDANUM GRAVEOLENS, B. AND H.).
English Dill has long had a reputation of its own
for distillation of essential oil. It is grown chiefly
in East Anglia. Considerable shortage is already
evident, following the stoppage of Continental
supplies, the cheap Ind\an fruit not being an
effective substitute. This annual is easily grown,
and should pay well in years to come.
Cultivation is similar to that of spring Oats,
lolb. of seed being drilled to the acre. Careful
attention must be given to the destruction of weeds.
The plants require much watching as the time
for harvesting approaches. Mowing is begun
as the lower " seeds " (fruits) begin to fall, the
others ripening on the straw. In dry periods
cutting is best done in early morning or late
evening. The loose sheaves are built into small
stacks of about twenty sheaves tied together.
In hot weather threshing may be done in the
field. The crop is considered rather exhaustive
of soil fertility. The yield is 5cwt. to 7cwt. of
Dill fruits per acre, selling in normal periods at
30s. to 40s. per cwt.
{To be continued.)
ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
FLOWER GARDEN.
TROUBLESOME WEED IN LAWN (£. T. IF.).—
The weed sent for name is the Self-heal, Prunella
vulgaris. It is most common in badly drained ground,
but is a common weed in many lawns. The best way to i
destroy it is to rake out as much of it as possible ; 1
then give the lawn a generous surface-dressing of farmyard
manure, basic slag or bone-meal. Either of these will
encourage the grass, and by its extra vigour it will then
displace the weed.
ADVICE ON YUCCAS {E. F. Broiim).—'We ad^'ise you
to plant tjhe Yuccas in a sheltered, well-drained part of
the garden. It is not necessary to put them under cover
in the winter. As the leaves are quite healthy, they must
be able to obtain a certain amount of nourishment, even
though most of the woody matter has perished. In
planting, the Yuccas should be put .at such a depth that
the decayed portion is below the surface of the soil. Then
roots will in time be pushed out from the healthy part,
and the plants again become estabUshed. Where the
woody matter of the stems is decayed, it cannot be replaced ;
but when roots are produced from the healthy portion,
the decay will not spread upward.
HERBACEOUS PLANTS AND BULBS (M. S.).—
As the lawn appears to come right up to the hedge, it would
be necessary to form a border of any width you please
or to suit the circumstances of the ease, and this, it properly
trenched and manured, might be made to grow many
things quite well. As the hedge is new, you have nothing
to fear from the spread of roots, though it would be well
in planting to keep at some distance, say 2 feet, from the
stems of the plants. It you will give us the width and
length of the border, we will endeavour to suggest some-
thing of service. You might say whether annuals or
perennials would be preferred. Darwin Tulips should
be planted 5 inches or 6 inches deep. Daffodils, if for
purposes of naturalisation, would do quite well 4 inches
deep, the larger-rooted sorts, as Emperor and others,
being planted 6 inches deep. For small bulbs, as
Snowdrop, Chionodoxa and Muscari, 4 inches deep would
be ample, somewhat less if the soil is of a heavy nature.
Rough ground will do quite well for many of these plants,
though better results will be forthconnng if it is well
trenched or even deeply dug prior to the planting.
DAFFODILS NOT DOING WELL (D. F. B.).— From
your description of the bulbs it would appear they have
fallen a prey to the fungus disease known as Fusarium
bulbigenum, which during the past few years has been
giving trouble tn cultivators both in Holland and England.
There is no cure, and at present no known preventive.
.\U you can do is to burn the bulbs. You might also,
with a view to limiting its spread, mark the places of any
groups of bulbs bearing £igns of leaf disease for early
lifting and examination, and as a precautionary measure
dust with sulphur, though as the fungus appears to per-
meate the inner tissues of the bulb, this is not likely to
prove very effective. .A.s to tlie soil whence the
diseased bulbs came, we should certainly avoid it for
Daffodils, and give it a good dressing of finely powdered
lime in addition. In this way the soil should be of ser\ice
in growing Jfontbretias and other bulbous-rooted plants.
The only way to avoid " more rotting " or to limit its
spread is by' annual lifting, drying and cleaning. Lift
the bulbs in July, and having dried them in an airy shed
in shallow, open trays, keep them under observation
and burn all affected bulbs at once.
PLANTS FOR BORDER (Flora). — You will And the
following of service both for the border and for
cutting. A 3-feet-wide border will not admit of more
than two rows of plants, which should be arranged
alternately to afford them as much room as possible.
As the fence is low and no trees exist, it will be
possible to keep the back line quite near the fence,
the Dlants being set 2 feet apart. Those in the
front" row should be 18 inches apart. For the back
row : Aster ericoides Desire (white), A. Novi-Belgii
densus (blue). Anemone japonica alba, A. j. elegans,
A. Amellus Riverslea (violet), Phlox Jlrs. E. H. Jenkins
(white), P. Flambeau (scarlet), P. I.e Mahdi (violet),
Pyrethrum Hamlet (pink), P. James Kelway (crimson),
P. Ne Plus Ultra (blush). I.ilium c^iididnni (white— three
or six bulbs should be set in a group), D' Ipliuiium Bella-
donna (clear blue), D. King of ]Jclphhiiinii> (dark blue).
Iris Mrs. C. Darwin, I. Mme. Olierr;aii, f. pallida and
Gaillardia giandiflora. Forthe-frontrow: Aster Iscvicatus
(rose), Helenium pumilum (yellow), Lilium pyrenaicum
(yellow), L. umbcllatum (orange), Pontstemoii Newbury
Gem (scarlet), Coreopsis lanc«olata (golden), Campanula
glomerata dahurica (dark blue), Achillea alpina (white).
Aster subcteruleiis (blue), Heuchera sanguinra (scarlet),
H. brizoides (rosy), Hemerocallis Dumortieil (orange),
Geum Heldreichii (orange yellow). Geranium Eudrcssii
(rose), Gentiana acaulis (deep blue), Diccniva eximca
(rosy). Campanula earpatica (blue), C. c. alba (white),
C. e. Kiverslea (dark blue), C. muralis (blue). C. G. F.
Wifsou, Aubrictia Dr. Mules (violet), A. Fir.- Km- and
Anemone sylvcstris (whitt),
PLANTING HERBACEOUS BORDERS (S. D. P.).—
If the failure to which you refer concerns the past season
more particularly, we should consider it to be due to tne
long-continued drought, or it might be this in conjunction
with undue preparation of the borders. All hot, sandy
soils require specially deep working and enriching with
manure, and with cow-manure, by reason of its cooling
nature, for preference. With some knowledge of the
soil of your district, we know also the difficulty of inducing
the usual run of vigorous-growing herbaceous plants
to thrive, and we know, too, that in many instances
this year such plants have been more or less burnt up.
With due preparation of the soil in such a case, annual
replanting in the autumn should also be indulged in,
so that the plants may obtain a good hold of the soil.
In addition, a good lime dressing during the process
of soil preparation would be helpful. A greater success,
too, may be ensured in those instances where the borders
are quite removed from tree life, and when the surface
soil is either kept flat or is below that of the surrounding
soil. This would admit of an occasional flooding of water
in times of great drought, when, with the assistance of
some artificial manure, a fuller measure of success might
be achieved. As you say the annuals have not done
^yell — these have given excellent displays in most dry,
gravelly soils this year — we can only conclude that soil
poverty as much as drought has been at the root of the
trouble. In all probability a little e.vpcrt advice on the
spot would be money well spent. Some of the more
showy plants calculated to succeed %vith the treatment
we have in mind would be the ItaUan Starvvorts in variety.
Campanula earpatica in several varieties, also Hendersonii
and Hillside Gem. Stokesia, Anemone japonica in
variety, Cimicifuca simplex, a set of florists' Pentstemons
to be "planted in March or April, liudbeckia, a selection
of Phloxes, Carnations and Michaelmas Daisies in variety
should also provide what you require. Among annuals,
Godetia, Rocket Larkspur, Lavatera, Alonsoa, Nigella,
Snapdragons and Stocks. So far .as selection goes, we can
only generalise, as you do not give the size of the borders.
The partial failure of the Lupines is duo probably to the-
same cause.
TREES AND SHRUBS.
PLANTS FOR SCREEN (21/. L. IF.).— You cannot
do better than plant common Holly in the position you
describe. Plants 5 feet to 7 feet high can be procured,,
but they had better not be obtained before the end of
April, as they do hot transplant well during late autunio
and winter.
TO KILL TREE STUMP (£. F. Brown).— The stump
of a tree can be killed by exposing the principal roots and
boring holes well into the middle of each root, afterwards
filling the holes with salt. A more rapid method is to
water the ground round about with wocd-killer, but it
poisons the soil and makes it unfit for other vegetation
for a considerable time. You can obtain information
about stocks for fruit trees in " Fruit Growing for Begin-
ners " bv F. W. Harvey, published by Country Life,
Limited," 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, ^Y.C.,
price Is., or post free Is. 3d. A shilling book on " Trees and
Shrubs," including methods of propagation, is published
bv Messrs. Cassell and Co., and is entitled " Pictorial
p'ractical Tree and Shrub Culture." A more compre-
hensive book upon the same subject , entitled " Trees
and Shrubs," by E. T. Cook, price 12s. 6d., is pubhshed
by Caimtry JAfe, Limited, as above.
ROSE GARDEN.
ROSES FOR NEW BED (Chatenarj).— Yon should be
able to make an effective bed of Roses in the plot of land
described, providing you have the soil dug at least 21 feet
deep and plentv of good manure incorporated with the
lower soil. We advise keeping the Roses at least 5 feet
away from the Laurel hedge. The Roses can be planted
as close as 18 inches apart, in order to have a good effect
of colour. As you name Mme. Abel Chatenay, we suggest
planting this at the end furthest from the vrindows, as
it is a tall grower; then, to follow it, Caroline Testout,
Lady Ashtown or Betty, -n-ith the Monthly Rose JIme.
E Resal in front. An alternative scheme would be
General Maearthur (scarlet) at the back. Mme. Abel
Chatenay next, with Mme. Bavary (golden) in front;
or Mme. Abel Chatenay, Mme. Ravary, and the scarlet
Polyantha Rose Jessie in front. All these are very free,
continuous and inexpensive. Any of our Rose advertisers
would supplv these. The plants may be heeled in in the
kitchen garden soil for several weeks until such time as
you can' plant them. If you could give us the exact
width and length, we would advise you how many plants
to procure.
572
THE GARDEN.
[November 21, 1914.
MISCELLANEOUS.
USE OF SULPHATE OF POTASH {D. G.)— Sulphate
•of potash is not injurious to any plants as lent; as you
do not use more than half an ounce to '2oz. to the square
yard, but is, on the contrary, likely to be very beneficial
on many soil?;.
NAMES OF PhAmS,— Herbert Lester.~The Dahlias
sent were very poor and naturally out of colour in
November. 2, Britannia ; 4, Mrs. H. L. Brousson ; 6,
Phoebe ; 94. too poor to recoiinise ; 135, Miry Service.
NAMES OF FRUIT.— il. Popt-.—l, C'llini Pippin; 2,
Norfolk Bfiiufin. J. Wright — Bonn €K.ir(ly. Ribble.
— Durondi'au. T.ielic. — 1, Beurr6 Duniout ; 2, Vicar
of Winkfleld ; 3. Eister Beurr6 ; 4. Northern Greening ;
5. Blenheim Orange ; 6, Kedleston Pippin ; 7, Aston
Torni ; 8, Durondeau. D. C. Lysaght. — -1, Very fine
fruit of Blenheim Orange ; 2, Lord Derby. The Pear
was too decayed to identify.
SOCIETIES.
LIVERPOOL HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.
The executive of the above society, owing to the war,
made their show into a non-competitive exhibition,
with an open request that all fruits, plants and flowers
might be sold and the proceeds given to the Rehef
Faud. The outcome was a generous one, the large Corn
Exchange being well furnished on the 11th inst. with a
varied assortment from well-kept gardens. Something
novel was expected under the new regulation, where
the exhibitor could adopt whatever system he desired and
stage his exhibit at his own sweet will. The change
was not very great. In some exhibits skill and taste
created gratifying results, but in many cases overcrowding
spoilt the effect. Although the show was non-competitive,
honorary awards were made, to the more important
features in the form of gold and silver medals and
certificates of merit. We can only notice briefly a few
of the exhibits out of the seventy entries and those who
were favourably accepted by the judges.
Gold medals were awarded to the following exhibitors :
Mr. G. Haigh, gardener to Su W. H. Tate. Bart., Wooltou,
who made a brave show of fine Chrysanthemum blooms
on a groundwork of Palms, Ferns, &c ; Jlr. P. Caunce,
gardener to G. Nicholson, Esq., Prince's Park, Liverpool,
who staged eleven vases of splendid single Chrysanthemums
vfiih. about a dozen blooms in each vase — a highly
meritorious exhibit ; 5Ir. P. Jakeman, gardener to Sir
W. B. Forwood, Bart., Broraborough Hall, who con-
tributed five dozen Japanese blooms of splendid exliibition j
form ; Messrs. Dickson and Eabinson, Manchester, !
who set up an imposing bank of decorative varieties,
showing great taste in arrangement ; Mr. W. J. Lockett, I
Grassendale, who had a pleasing collection of Chry-
santhemums and frxiit ; Frank Bibby, Esq., Shrewsbury,
who had a similar stand with noteworthy fruit ; Messrs.
Stuart Low and Co., Bush Hill Park, Enfield, who Iiad
a pleasing combination of Hoses and Carnations set
up in pillar form on velvet — the Roses were charming
for the season ; j\lr. J. Lee, Bebbington, who fully main-
tained his high prestige as a successful fruit-grower ;
and Messrs. R. P. Ker and Son, Aigburth, who added to
the general effect with their fine stately Palms in consider-
able numbers.
Silver medals. — A large number staged the popular
autumn ilower, and excellent selections were set up
by Mr. J. Stoney, gardener to Lieutenant-Colonel J. B.
G^askell, Woolton"; Mr. .T. George, gardener to T. Heushaw,
Esq., lloby ; Mr. H. Middlehurst, Liverpool ; and Mr.
Xoo Thompson, Formby. Messrs. John Cowan and
Co., Gateacre, were the sole representatives of Orchids.
Fruit had numerous supporters. Mr. E. Bennett, gar-
'dener to J. E. Gordon, Esq.. Chester; Mr. J. (.ribbins,
gardener to the Countess of Sefton, Croxteth ; and .Air.
Ben Ashton, gardener to the Earl of Lathom, were
specially noteworthy with excellent collections. Mr.
JR. Manson, Gateacre, had bowls of bulbs. Palms, tfec. ;
.and &Ir. C. A. Young, West Derby, Carnations staged on
"Velvet.
Decorative tables were well shown by Messrs. Fishlock
Brothers, Liverpool ; Miss G. Milne," Waterloo ; Miss
Pollard, Liverpool ; Miss Newsome, Ormskirk ; and
Mrs. Stephenson, assisted from her Liverpool roof garden.
Auction sales were held diuing the afternoon and
evening, and these, with a small army of retail sellers,
jealised £110, which the executive hope to make a good
addition to by the fruit unsold. Unf ortimatel y, the
"Weather was very bad, torrential rain falling nearly the
■\vhole of the day.
DULWICH CHRYSANTHEMUM SOCIETY.
The twenty-first exhibition of this excellently managed
-society was a fitting celebration of its coming-of-age.
Mr. B. B. Leech, the esteemed hon. secretary, takes' a
great interest in the work of this society, and' is largely
icsponsiblc for the introduction of .several novel and
pleasing features, which combine to make the .show a
great success. The exhibition is usually held at the
Baths, Goose Green, but as the building had been com-
mandeered for the Belgian refugees, St. Barnabas' Parish
Hall, Dulwich Village, was utilised instead.
In front of the platform Mr. Leech, gardener to J. C.
Eno, Esq., Wood Hall, Dulwich, S.E., set up a large,
attractive '_Toup of Chrysanthemums and fine foUaged
plants, which was much admired.
One of the chii-f competitive classes was a table group
y fret liy 4 fert, to comprise Chrysanthemums arranged
in vases, &c., and cut foliage and foliage plants, equal
points being given for quality and etfect. The judges
placed &Ir. A. Winter, The Gardens, Elm Lodge, College
Road, Dulwich, S.E., first with a rather formal arrange-
ment of very heavy blooms and beautiful foliage and
fohage plants. A more artistic arrangement was set up
by Mr. Leech, who had smaller blooms, but in several
types the Chrysanthemum was charmingly displayed,
with good foliage and foliage plants. This exhibit was
placed second.
Another interesting class was for four varieties of
Japanese, to be shown in vases, three blooms of one
variety in each vase. A superb series placed Mr. J.
Vanstone first, the varieties being Queen Mary, Lady
Talbot, Mrs. Gilbert Drabble and F. S. Vallis. JUr. A.
Winter was second, and ilr. T. Martin third.
Very handsome indeed were the four individual vases
of decorative Chrysanthemums arranged for effect. A
well-arranged vase placed air. L. Wheeler, The Gardens,
Wood Hall, Dulwich, S.E., first. Another handsome
vase from Mr. W. P. Barnes was placed second, and a
good exhibit found Jlr. T. W. Cliff third.
A competition that pleased us very much was that for
two stands or vases of large blooms arranged with foliage
for effect and with not more than eighteen large blooms
in each stand, &c. This served to illustrate how monster
blooms could be used in decorations. Two superb stands
won first prize for Mr. 11. B. Leech, who disposed his
flowers and foliage most artistically. Second prize waa
awarded to air. Winter, who showed well, but less praise-
worthily than that of the first prize exhibit. Bamboo
stands were used.
One other class is worthy of notice. This was eleven
Japanese blooms, distinct, to be shown on boards provided
by the society. The boards were exceptionally large,
and allowed 10 inches for each bloom, four blooms back
and front, and three blooms in the middle row. Handsome
blooms secured first prize for Mr. Winter, Queen Mary,
Lady Talbot, Kara Dow, Bessie Godfrey and T. Lunt
being his best blooms.
There were numerous other classes, all quite good,
and we should think this society's exhibition is one of
the most go-ahead of its kind.
The group of singles, as well as the group of large
Japanese and other exhibition and decorative Chry-
santhemums as shown by Mr. Norman Davis, were quite
a feature of this splendid show. The singles were excep-
tionally good, and included such sorts as Juno (very large
indeed), Isobel Felton, Mrs. W. Smith (white), Mensa,
Joey Saunders, James Beats (bronze), Miss MoUy Godfrey,
Mary Morris and Thomas Ward.
Messrs. J. Peed and Son, West Norwood, also had a
display of Chrysanthemums.
No prizes were awarded, and the whole of the proceeds,
including the sales of flowers, (tc., were to be given to
tlic Prince of Wales' Fund. The society seemed sanguine
of being able to raise about £60 — a most commendable
enterprise.
EDINBURGH CHRYSANTHEMUM SHOW.
The annual Chrysanthemum show of the Scottish Horti-
cultural Association was held in the Waverley Market,
Edinburgh, on November 12, 13 and 14. It was originally
fixed for a week later, and it was generally anticipated
that the show would be cancelled on account of the war.
Tlie Council, however, decided to proceed with the show
and to devote the profits to the Red Cross and Belgian
Relief Funds. As was expected, the competition was
more limited than usual, and the large hall not so well
filled as in former years ; but the display, as a whole,
was a capital one, and the quality generally of a high
class. Some of the ordinary exhibitors were noteworthy
for their absence through various causes, but others
who entered the lists exhibited in an admirable way.
In the competitive classes for Chrysanthemum blooms,
the leading class was that for the City of Edinburgh
Queen Victoria Memorial Prizes, the first being the City
of Edinburgh Memorial Cup and £12 for a display of
double and single Chrysanthemums on a table 12 feet
by 8 feet. This worthily fell to Mr. James Beats, Binrock,
Dundee, a well - known competitor elsewhere, but new
to this show, who did credit to himself by his table,
which contained splendid blooms admirably staged.
JMr. D. M'Lean, Raith, Kirkcaldy, made a good second ;
Mr. G. Scott, Seathwood, Dundee, came third ; and Mr.
D. Kidd, Carbcrry Tower, fourth.
The Scottish Challenge Cup for ten vases of Japanese
Chrysanthemum? went to Mr. James Small, Norwood,
Alloa ; second, IVIr. G. Stewart. Tuilieallan ; third, Mr.
H. M'Skimming, Auchinault, Helensburgh. Other prize-
takers with cut flowers were Mr. J. Waldie, Mr. G. Stewart,
Mr. J. Small, Mr. F. Templeton, Mr. G. Anderson, flir.
R. Whannell, 51r. A. W. Elliot and Mr. J. M'Fadyen.
Messrs. Young and Co.'s challenge cup for a vase of
Perpc'tual-llowrriiig Carnations was won by Mr. W. Game,
Duiipliii Casth-. 'i'bc ojicn class for six vases of Chry-
santbi-nuHiis had as tin- winners Messrs. Todd and Co.
Bouquets and fioral designs were capitally shown,
Mr. James Beats carrying off the leading prizes in the
open classes. Mr. D. Kidd, Carbcrry Tower, was first
for the decorated dinner-table ; second, Mr. Beats ;
third, Mr. G. Scott, Seathwood. Chrysanthemum plants
were good, Mr. M. G. Michie winning most of the first
prizes. In the general plant classes there was. as a rule,
a good competition, and the prizes were well distributed,
Mr. J. Templeton. Mr A. Cameron. Sir. A. A. Law, Mr.
G. Scott. Mr. W. Brew. Mj. G. Anderson, Mr. J. J. Staward,
Mr. F. M. Urquhart, Mr. W. G. Pirie and Mr. A. Williams
being among the leading exhibitors.
Fruit was. us usual at this show, of high quality. iMr. i
T>, Kidd was awarded the first prize for liis collection of I
eight dishes. The class for four bimchcs of Grai)es.
distinct, proved a win for Mr. J. Jliddleton, Callender
House, Falkirk ; and other first prizes for Grapes went to
Mr. W. Hunter, Jlr. A. Gauld. Mr. W. Scott, Mr. J.
M"l''adyen, Mr. Middleton, and Mr. Kidd. The Malcolm
Dunn Memorial Prize, for twelve dishes of Apples grown
in Scotland, was won by Mr. James Duff, Threavc, Castle
Douglas, the same exhibitor being first for eighteen
dishes of Apples. For six varieties of Pears grown in
Scotland, ilr. R. G. Sinclair, Congalton, led. Mr. K.
Currie, Foxley Hall, Hereford, was first in the open class
for Pears.
Vegetables were a capital section, and many good
exhibits were slio\vn. Mr. W. P. Bell, Bothwell Castle,
secured the first prize for the collection ; second, Mr.
W. Harper. Tulliebelton.
The trade exhibits, although few, were capital, and
added considerably to the value and interest of the sliow,
A gold medal was given to Messrs. W. Wells and Co.,
Mcrstham, for a notable exhibit of Chrysanthemums
of various classes and Carnations, the varieties including
a number of novelties. A gold medal was also awarded
to Messrs. Storrie and Storrie, Carsc of Gowrie Nurseries,
for one of their extensive exhibits of fruit trees, fruit,
flowers, &c. About a hundred and fifty varieties of
Apples were shown on this table of about seventy feet
long. Messrs. Dobbio and Co., Edinburgh, received a
similar award for their magnificent collection of Potatoes,
with good Chrysanthemums. Messrs. R. B. Laird,
Dickson and Son, Edinburgh, were given a silver-gilt
medal for a good display of conifers, &c. A silver medal
was awarded to Messrs. John Forbes (Hawick), Limited,
for an exliibit wliich included a number of Carnations,
Begonias, &c. Messrs. Laing and Mather, Kelso,
sent Potatoes and other vegetables, to wliich a bronze
medal was given.
A splendid group of Orchids came from Mr. Hindle,
Blacket Place, Edinburgh, whose gardener, Mr. W.
Holden, grows them well, and a gold medal was awarded
for this valuable non-competitive exhibit.
The show was opened by the Marchioness of Linlithgow,
UNITED HORTICULTURAL BENEFIT AND
PROVIDENT SOCIETY.
The monthly meeting of this society was held at the Royai
Horticultural Society's Hall on November 9, over which
Mr. Charles H. f!urtis presided. The sums of £28 17s. 9d..
£13 Os. 4d. and £5 5s. lOd., respectively, were passed for
payment to the nominees of three deceased members.
'J'he sick pay for the month on the ordinary side was
£68 4s. 3d., on the State side £34 14s. 4d., and maternity
claims amounted to £10 10s. The treasurer, in giving
the financial statement, stated that the trustees had
invested a further £400 on behalf of the society. The
secretary reported that seventy-five members had joined
Hi-^ .Majesty's Forces.
CHELMSFORD AND DISTRICT GARDENERS'
ASSOCIATION.
The fourth meeting uf the winter session was held in the
East Anglian Institute of Agriculture on Friday last.
Mr. J. H. Hull occupied the chair, and about sixty members
were present. Previous to the lecture the annual exhi-
bition was held. There were ten classes, with a total of
fifty-one entries. The competition was keen, and the
exhibits refiected great credit on the exhibitors. In
the fruit classes the judges had to award three extra
prizes. Later in the evening the president, Mr. E. H.
Christy, gave an interesting lecture on " Sweet Peas."
The lecturer, who is an expert on this subject, gave some
very useful hints, and explained in detail several important
operations. At the conclusion of the discussion a hearty
vote nf thank'^ was accorded Mr. Christy.
WARGRAVE AND DISTRICT GARDENERS'
ASSOCIATION.
.\ FORTNIGHTLY meeting of the above took place on
Wednesday evening, No\ember 4, when a very interesting
paper on " Spring-flowering Bulbs Under Trees " was
given by Mr, A. Rogers, of Messrs. Watcrcr, Sons and
Crisp's Nurseries, Hare Hatch, Wargrave. He detailed
such points as time of planting, preparation of the ground,
methods of planting, and the best varieties to use. The
following were among the various bulbs mentioned :
Alliums, Anemones, Chionodo.xas, Crocuses, Winter
Aconites, Dog's-tooth Violets, Fritillaries, Snowdrops,
Jhiscaris, Hyacinths, Scillas and Ornithogalums. A
gfiod discussion ensued and much useful information was
imparted. A vote of thanks was accorded Mr. Rogers
and carried with acclamation.
ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY OF
ABERDEEN.
Thr annual meeting of this society was hold the other
evening. Parish Councillor Simpson, \icc-chairman,
occupied the chair. The annual report was submitted
and approved of. It showed a credit balance of
£:i7 Is. lOd. The chairman remarked that the member-
ship was showing a falling off, and made an appeal to
the members to endeavour to secure accessions to their
number. The financial position of the society was still
good, and the members had reason to be gratified with
this. Sir. A. Uobson, who seconded the adoption of
tiie report, urged the desirability of adding to the reserve
fund. On account of there having been no show held
this autumn, it was resolved to continue the present
office-bearers and directors. In room of Mr. A. M
Cocker, who has retired, Mr. James King, The Gardens,
Baliiagask, was appointed a dirt'ctor.
I
GARDEN.
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No. 2245.— Vol. LXXVIII.
November 28, 1914-
I
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
National Dahlia Society's Annual Meeting.—
The annual meeting of this society will be held
on Monday next, the 30th inst., at the Hotel
Windsor, Victoria Street, Westminster, at 4 p.m.
It is hoped that as many members as possible
will attend.
Roses in Yorkshire. — To meet the wishes of
a number of our readers who cultivate Roses in
Yorkshire and other Northern Counties, we have
arranged with a well-known amateur grower to
write three articles giving his actual experiences
in Yorkshire. The first of these articles will
appear next week, and the others in our issues
dated December 12 and 19 respectively.
A Rare Yellow Rhododendron. —
Although Rhododendron campylo-
carpum, a flower-truss of which is
illustrated on this page, was intro-
duced to this country from the
Himalayas as long ago as the middle
of the last century, it is still a com-
paratively rare plant. It is difficult
to imderstand why this is so, because
when in flower at Kew, usually during
April, it attracts more attention than
any other species, probably on
account of its sulphur yellow flowers.
Although quite hardy in the London
district, it is doubtful if it would
do well in colder localities, but any-
where in the Southern or Western
Coimties it ought certainly to be
grown. It appreciates peaty soil free
from lime, such as is afforded for
Rhododendrons in general.
A Red Rose for Autumn. —
Although not so free-flowering as
some of the Hybrid Tea Roses,
the Hybrid Perpetual variety Com-
mander Jules Gravereaux is so good
as to warrant attention from those who
appreciate blooms during October and
the early days of November. It makes
a free, vigorous bush, and the large,
fragrant flowers are of such a brilliant shade of
red as to render them very conspicuous even on a
dull day. They are of rather loose, semi-double
character, a fact that doubtless has much to do
with their opening well so late in the season.
This brilliant Rose was raised by Croibier, and
first put into commerce in 1908.
A Beautiful White-Stemmed Bramble.— One
of the most attractive plants outdoors at Kew
just now is the new white-stemmed Bramble
named Rubus giraldianus. A colony of plants
may be seen near the Pagoda, which forms such
a prominent landmark in the district. The
stems of this Bramble are 6 feet or rather more and their friends free of charge. In connection
in height, somewhat branched and very white. 1 with the show a conference will be held at 3 p.m..
Now that flowers and most of the foliage have ! when Mr. M. C. AUwood will read a paper on
gone from other shrubs, the glistening white " The Cardinal Points of Successful Carnation
of this Bramble is most pleasing. It is a native ! Culture Under Glass," followed by Mr. A. Harris,
of China, whence it was sent to this country a I who will read a paper on " The Construction of
few years ago. R. thibetanus, though not quite
so white as the foregoing, is also good, and is a
native of the same country. Beyond good soil
and the cutting away annually of the old wood
and the weakest of the new, these Brambles call
for very little attention.
The Perpetual Flowering Carnation Society's
Show. — Undeterred by the war, this society is
RHODODENDRON CAMPYLOCARPUM, A BEAUTIFUL YELLOW-
FLOWERED SPECIES FROM THE HIMALAYAS.
holding its winter exhibition on Wednesday next,
December 2, at the Royal Horticultural Society's
Hall, Vincent Square, Westminster. A good
show is anticipated, and it is to be hoped that
it will be well patronised by the general public.
Although the society has suffered in the way
of reduced subscriptions, the committee is putting
a bold face on the matter by annoimcing that all
the net proceeds of the show will be given to the
Belgian Relief Fund. In addition, most of the
flowers will be sold for the benefit of the same
fund. A further concession to our much harassed
Allies is the admission of Belgian horticulturists
Greenhouses for Carnation Culture."
Maize Cobs Malformed. — At a recent meeting
of the scientific committee of the Royal Horti-
cultural Society, Mr. W. C. Worsdell showed
Maize cobs brought from Nyassaland by Mr.
E. W. Davy, one of which had three or four narrow
lateral cobs arising from the base and growing
apparently in the axils of the lower bracts ; the
other was curiously fasciated at the
apex. The latter was particularly
curious, as the common view of the
Maize cob is that it arises by fusion
of several axes, and it might have
been expected to exhibit the fasciation
throughout its whole length.
A Good New Single Chrysanthe-
mum.— When visiting Finsbury Park
a few days ago, we were very much
interested in a new single Chrysan-
themum that the genial superintendent,
Mr. F. Wright, informed us is named
Eastgate Gem. It makes a dwarf,
compact plant, not more than a foot
high, and each shoot is studded with
the dainty, bright pink, single flowers.
These are of medium size, of good
form, and each has a slight white
band surrounding the yellow disc. It
is used as an edging to a central bed
of larger and taller varieties in the
show-house at Finsbury Park, and for
that purpose is ideal. When obtain-
able from nurserymen, we anticipate
a brilliant future for this useful and
charming new-comer.
The Pyracantha as a Shrub. —
We were also interested in the large
bushes of Cratagus Pyracantha that
are growing by the Manor Gate at Finsbury
Park. Usually this handsome berried shrub
is grown as a wall plant, where it is certainly
very effective, unless the wall happens to be a
red one ; but to see it at its best it should be
grown as an ordinary shrub in the border. The
plants at Finsbury Park have been in their present
situations for some years, and now measure as
much as 10 feet in diameter. Although not
fruiting so freely this year as we have seen them
on previous occasions, there are sufficient berries
present to indicate what a, beautiful shrub it is
if grown in this way.
574
THE GARDEN.
[November 28. 1Q14.
CORRESPONDENCE.
{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
Echium callithyrsum at Bosaban. — Sir ,\rthur
Vivian, whose charming gardens at Bosahan,
Cornwall, were described and illustrated in our
last issue, sends us the accompanying illustration
of Echium callithyrsum growing at Bosahan. The
plant was given to Sir Arthur in a small state
in a pot about three years ago, and during the
past summer produced thirty-eight fully developed
spikes of its charming blue flowers. It is a native
of the Canary Islands, and in the Scilly Isles
often attains a height of lo feet to 15 'feet. Un-
fortunately, it is only hardy in the South-Westem
Counties of England, and possibly the warm
localities of Scotland.
Escallonia montevidensis. — In reference to
your query on page 499 of The Garden regarding
the hardiness of this splendid autumn-flowering
shrub, it may be of interest to state that it succeeds
in the open in the more favoured parts of Wigtown-
shire. About the end of September, when
visiting that interesting garden belonging to
Mr. Carrick-Buchanan, Corsewall House, Stranraer,
where so many of these tender and interesting
plants flourish in tlie open, I saw this growing
freely in the open border and just beginning to
open its panicles of white flowers. This is certainly
a species worthy of more extensive cultivation
in the milder parts of the country or near the
sea, where these South American shrubs flourish
remarkably well, and all grow freely in ordinary
well-drained garden soil. — R. Findlay, Logan
Gardens, Stranraer.
A BEAUTIFUL PLANT OF ECHIUM CALLITHYRSUM IN SIR ARTHUR VIVIAN'S GARDENS AT
Buddleia Colvillei Flowering. — Our Buddleia
Colvillei, wEich reachi^i the blooming age three
or foiu- years ago, has this year for the first time
thrown two heads of bloom a second time. One is
now in flower. I may state we had had all the old
blooms carefully cut off. It is fully exposed to
the sea winds and is grown without any protection.
C. M. Trestrail, Southdale, Clevedon, Somerset.
Carrots Sown in November. — The seed cata-
logues and the directions on seed packets mostly
tell us to sow the seed of Carrot in the spring,
but for many years I have sown seed of one of the
early varieties broadcast in a large frame about
the middle of this month. From this sowing we
pull delicious little early Carrots quite three
weeks in advance of the outdoor crop, and at that
season young, tender cooking vegetables are
valuable indeed. Carter's Long Forcing Carrot
is the best for the purpose. — F. H. C.
Finger and Toe Disease in Green Crops. —
Your correspondent Mr. J. Crook, pages 552 and
553, issue November 14 of The Garden, is quite
right in stating that deep trenching of the soil
will be helpful in checking this disease. It will
not act as an infallible remedy. For a period of
ten years I had charge of a large garden in which
nearly two acres of winter greens had to be grown
on the same plot year after year. The ground
had been so cropped for many years previously,
as the garden dated from 171 7. Club-root was
very bad when I took charge, so I had two pecks
of agricultural salt and three pecks of unslaked
lime per square rod trenched in every year,
and then the plants (in a very young state)
were planted. A'so earthing-up, every autumn
or in late summer, was done, and trouble from
club-root ceased. It is important that seedlings
be raised in fresh quarters every year. — G. G.
Chionodoxa sardensis, Stachys lanata and
Apple Lane's Prince Albert.— I was delighted
to find in The Garden, page 555, a fellow admirer
of Chionodoxa sardensis. It is a dainty little
jewel of a flower, charming in the garden, where
every single spray of its pure and vivid colour
tells, and even more delightful indoors at closer
view in clear cut-glass vases. I was also pleased
to see the photograph and note on page 543
concerning Stachys lanata. This beautiful foliage
plant is so easy to grow and yet apparently so
little known. I have often wondered that it is
not used for bedding on a large scale. It makes
a most excellent border to scarlet Geranium
or to masses of any pink or yellow flowers. It
gives less trouble than almost any other edging,
requiring only to be trimmed occasionally and
replanted every second or third year. Wlitn
used as foliage edging, it should not
be allowed to flower. I can confirm
from my own experience the excel-
lence of Apple Lane's Prince Albert,
illustrated on page 555. I have
gro%vn it for several years, and find
it the best cropping, cooking and
keeping Apple in my garden (where
I grow some tliirty varieties). No
other Apple combines so many good
qualities. It is, indeed, not the
" Prince " but the " King " of cooking
Apples, and really miglit now well be
renamed King -Albert in honour of
our gallant Royal Ally. In addition
to its practical merits, it has the
loveliest of all Apple blossoms, and
would be worth growing for its
flowers alone. I plant May-flowering
Tulips Striped Beauty and von
Jehring beside my bushes, and these
together form one of the prettiest
pictures in my garden in May. —
Anne Amateur.
Mildew-Proof Roses. — The article
by " Somerset " in your issue for Octo-
ber 31 was a very timely one, and
should be taken seriously to heart by
raisers of new Roses. I readily admit
it is not an easy matterto deal with,
inasmuch as hybridisation seems to
encourage mildew rather than the
reverse. Of course, some may say,
"Yes, that issoif proceeded with upon
the ordinary lines ; but surely raisers
can break away from the beaten track
BOSAHAN. and strike out upon some other." I
have two Roses to name that I ven-
ture to say will soon be in every garden, for their
freedom from mildew will make them extremely
popular. Both are the creations of that marvellous
hybridist M. Pemet-Ducher, and are of the new group
of Penietiana Roses, a group to wh'ch we may
look for many others with like characteristics. One
is named Cissie Easlea. It is flowering now most
beautifully, and its rich saffron yellow blossoms
are certainly the loveliest among late autiiun
Roses. The foliage is glistening, of a large size,
almost as massive as Camellia leaves. The woe d
is of a brownish mahogany colour, a delightful
contrast to the flow-ers. A splendid feature uf
this Rose is the width of the erect clusters. I
have had some with a spread of fully 18 inches.
A lady looking at this Rose on November 4 thought
it was Lady Hillingdon, so rich were its ope-ning
buds ; and it is wondrously free-flowering. I
can well believe what Mrs, Farmer wrote recenth-
November 28, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
575
that this variety was one of the best at Christmas
time tast year. The other beauty is Louise
Catherine Breslau, which was depicted in the
■coloured plate issued with The Garden for
•October lo. Here, again, we have glorious '.cathery
foliage, a joy to look upon ; and wliat a colour are
its flowers — coral red, shaded chrome yellow,
open flowery shrimp pink and copper. The
blossoms lack refinement of form, but this is
amply atoned for by their lovely colour. Anyone
wishing to plant beds of unique-coloured Roses
■could not select any kinds more suitable, and there
■will be no terror of fungoid blemishes next season,
for, strangely, they are even immune from red
xust and black spot, diseases to wliich some of the
Pernetianas are rather prone. I need not name
Arthur R. Goodwin and its fine sport J. F. Barry,
■also of this tribe. The former is so well known
and should be in every collection. I am sure
J. F. JBarry will be an acquisition, and I congratulate
Mr. Piper in securing such a fine sport. I quite
agree with Mr. Rigg in bis remarks regarding
-Lieutenant Chaure. It is splendid, and I am
.advising all who ask me for a good free-blooming
red Rose to plant it. It might almost be described
as a dwarf Hugh Dickson, except that there is not
■quite so much of the scarlet hue. It is evident
that locality and soil conditions have a deal to do
■with mildew or its absence, for I notice " Cheshire "
extols the merits of Mme. Ravary, Caroline Testout
and Mme. Abel Chatenay as being immune from
mildew, whereas " C. Ambrose " brands them as
■sinners as regards mildew. There are a few of
the true Teas especially noteworthy as being free
irora mildew. One of the best is Mme. Antoine
JVlari. It is a pleasure to look upon a mass of
this Rose at any time, and with me it is almost
evergreen. Then there are G. Nabonnand and its
■cream sport Peace ; the latter all .should grow, if
■only for its beautiful name. Anna Olivier and
its sport Lady Roberts are also splendid. I
really think mildew is hereditary, more especially
'Upon the female parent's side. Lieutenant Chaure,
already alluded to, was raised from Liberty x
Etoile de France. Tliis latter is a terror for
mildew, inherited from Fisher Holmes and Mme.
Abel Chatenay, its parents ; but Liberty is, with me,
free, and, as Mr. Rigg says. Lieutenant Chaure is
iree from the pest. I have no information as to
the parents of Mrs. George Shawyer, but this
Rose has been shockingly covered with mildew
this autumn. Undoubtedly it is the thick. Holly-
like leaved Roses that escape the fungus, and
therefore the efforts of raisers should tend towards
•employing such in their cross-breeding. I am
-hoping that from Cissie Easlea, Louise C. Breslau
and others we may obtain a good mildew-proof
race, and Cissie Easlea seeds quite freely here. —
JDanecroft.
■ The correspondence on this subject is
very interesting. I have not seen a single variety
that is quite free from mildew or can be relied on
to be immune. Varieties possessing smooth
leaves are^ certainly freer than those with
rougher surfaces. Newly planted Roses are freer
than those long established in a bed. Those in
open quarters are freer than others in draughty
places and on walls in hot positions. Plants in
shallow soils where the roots get very dry at
times suffer more than those growing in a deep
loam which is more consistently moist. In my
•experience the above facts have always stood
out prominently. I wonder how much mildew
we owe to the dry, unrotted litter found round
the roots in the soil ! — Shamrock.
REGELIO-CYCLUS IRISES.
E.-\RLIER in the year (see the issue of
The Garden for July 4) I had some-
thing to say in respect of this fasci-
nating hybrid set, and promised at
a more seasonable moment for planting
to refer to them again. That time
is now with us, and the moment being opportune
and the soil in good condition, I will endeavour
to redeem the promise then made. Those who
are interested in these flowers or would like to
make their acquaintance should turn up The
Garden for June 13 last, where will be found a
lifelike illustration of one of the best of them
and an interesting communication by the Rev.
J. Jacob.
In my previous note I recorded both my successes
and failures with these Irises, and by a reference
thereto it will be seen that the latter were obviously
the outcome of a desire to make of them a perma-
nent success without lifting or special treatment.
The successes were equally due to following a
rule of thumb method of culture — that, indeed,
laid down by Mr. Thomas Hoog (of Messrs. C. G.
van Tubergen), Haarlem, through whose insight
and enthusiasm the group came into being. This
remarkable hybrid set has been evolved from the
Oncocyclus and Regelia Irises, and those who
have had the least experience of the former —
the " impossible Cushions " as they have been
called — will realise that the new race is not to be
iriflcd with if success is to be assured. At the
same time it must be distinctly stated that the
difficulties are not insuperable.
On the other hand, these moderns, while embrac-
ing much of the fascinating beauty of the Cushion
Irises, have also inherited not a little of the
perennia'ly inclined, geniaL'y disposed Regelias,
which renders them so much more amenable
to cultivation. In a word, they are characterised
by hardiness, free growth and flowering, a flower
beauty only surpassed by the Cushions them-
selves, and cultural requirements of the simplest
character within certain limits. Apart from
these good attributes they occupy a place in
the floral chain of the genus which no others
have occupied half so well, a fact which
should appeal to all lovers of choice flowers.
They are practically with us from mid-April to
mid-May.
Their Cultural Needs. — I have said that
within certain limits this is of the simplest.
Essentials in the case are briefly these : A rich,
light, loamy soil, one freely charged with lime
rubble for preference, perfect drainage, and a
long annual rest such as is only afforded by lifting
and drying each year. This last condition —
this immunity from the excitability of soil influences
— despite the obvious evidences of the plant's
inclination to grow, is, perhaps, the most important
item of all, since it is the continuity of the secondary
or early autumn growth which it is so desirable
should be restrained till the vicissitudes of the
winter season are past. That accomplished,
all else is plain sailing. To cover with frames
or lights with the same idea of rest in view is not
half so good, and, as I have proved to the hilt,
brings failure in its train in the course of a
couple of years. To ensure this complete rest the
rhizomes should be lifted each year in July,
shaken free of soil, and stored in an airy place
in shallow trays till October, a course of treat-
ment similar to that meted out to a choice lot of
Tulips.
The Best Planting Season is October and
Noveniber, when it will be seen that the plants
are beset with sturdy half-inch-long shoots about
the main or central ones, and that the root-fibn s,
in spite of a three months' enforced absence
from the soil, show but little, if any, signs of
shrivelling. Contrary to custom, these Irises
appear best — as the subsequent growth clearly
demonstrates — ■if the rhizomes are planted 2 inches
deep, and it is a protection to the shoots, which
incline naturally to push early through the soil.
These, then, in very brief are the essential needs
of these plants, and the measure of their apprecia-
tion will be also the measure of their ultimate
success.
Varieties. — At the head of the poll I place
Charon (a study in old gold and bronze, and
indispensable), while Mars (rosy violet throughout
and big black blotch), Isis (ruby red), Artemis
(rose and grey), Jocaste (satiny white and violet),
Eucharis (somewhat suggestive of the lovely
Cushion Lorteti), with Psyche, Hera, Luna,
Eurydice, Una, Felicitas, Medusa and Irene are
others which impel admiration by their infinite
grace and charm. E. H. Jenkins.
ROOM PLANTS IN WINTER.
M
ANY plants that have succeeded
fairly well in the dwelling-house
during the summer and early
autumn months begin, when winter
sets in, to lose their freshness^
Of course, one 16<e^3or this in the
case of plants of a soft-wooded' character, but
when such subjects as Palms, Araucaria excelsa,
the hardier evergreen Ferns, and even Aspidistras
look more or less unhappy, the cause needs
seeking.
Causes of Failure. — There are several reasons
that may be put forward for this, but one of the
most likely causes of the plants being affected is
that with the far greater number of fires, and
the increased use of lamps or gas for the purposes
of illumination, the atmosphere is rendered much
drier than it was. This coneiition of things is
very detrimental to plant-life, and consequently the
plants soon show the effects thereof. The best
lighting medium for the welfare of plants is
electricity, and the worst, gas. The exceeeling'.y
dry atmosphere against which we have to contend
also causes the soil in the pots to dry as quickly as,
or perhaps even in some cases quicker than, in
the summer, though, of course, in this respect
the condition of the plants, the requirements
of the different individuals and their position
in the room all play an important part in the
matter.
A question put perhaps more frequently than
any other is, " How often should I water my plants
which are in the window or elsewhere in the
room ? " This question is easily asked, but abso-
lutely impossible to answer. Take, for instance,
a Palm growing in a comparatively small pot.
Around the bottom of this the stout roots
whence the principal nourishment is derived are
coiled. Under such conditions it is almost im-
possible to overwater it, whereas another one
in a larger pot, and consequently a greater mass
of soil perhaps unpenetrated by roots, would be
killed by the same treatment.
Repotting. — A mistake very common among
the uninitiated is that as soon as a plant appears
57G
THE GARDEN.
[November 28, 1914,
DOUBLE-STEMMED CORDON PEARS. THESE ARE EXCELLENT FOR
SMALL GARDENS AND MAY BE PLANTED NOW.
somewhat sickly it is looked upon as wanting a
larger pot, whatever be the season of the year.
Even if it would be benefited by an increased
size of pot, the operation of repotting should not
be carried out after August ; indeed, the months
of April, May, June and July are best for the
purpose, as there is then ample time for the new
roots to take possession of the fresh soil before
the winter. Such being the case, if plants at
this season appear to be imderpotted, the better
way will be to wait till April before disturbing
them at the roots.
When to Give Water.— As it is impossible
to state any definite period when room plants
should be watered, a few words of advice may be
given on this point. In the first place, the soil must
be allowed to get dry before watering, and then
enough water should be given to thoroughly moisten
the ball of earth. By dry it is not meant that
the soil must be parched up so as to injure the
plant, but rather that it is in that condition which
a careful observer will at once see as likely to be
benefited by a good watering. Above all things,
avoid giving little drops frequently, as this will
undermine the constitution of plants as well as
mankind. When a plant needs watering, the
better plan will be to take it from the room and
stand it in a pail of slightly tepid water at such a
depth that the rim
of the pot is covered.
When the water has
percolated through
the entire ball of
earth, which may be
ascertained by the
air bubbles ceasing
to rise, it should be
taken from the pail,
allowed to drain,
and then be taken
back into the room.
On no account,
either in summer
or winter, must
stagnant watei be
allowed to stand in
the jardinieres in
which the plants are
placed.
C I ean I iness. —
With the dry atmo-
sphere there is
always a certain
amoimt of dust, and
to keep the foliage
of the plants as
clean as possible is
a very important
matter. Such sub-
jects as the Aspi-
distra, India-rubber
Plant and Palms of
different kinds,
whose leaves are
smooth and of a
firm texture, may
be readily kept
clean by occasionally
sponging with luke-
warm water. On the
other hand, such
subjects as Ferns,
whose foliage is
more intricately
divided, collect the
dust to a greater extent than the smooth-leaved
plants, and are also more difficult to clean. The
better way is to take advantage of a mild day
(and there are many such during the winter)
to give them a syringing. On no account,
however, must sponging or syringing be done
during severe frost, while watering should
then, if possible, be avoided, or, if absolutely
necessary, it should be done in the morning
so as to allow any superabundant moisture to
dry up.
Treatment in Cold Weather. — Another very
important matter during sharp, frosty weather
is to bear in mind that the greatest cold is, as a
rule, experienced in the night when the fire is out,
and consequently the temperature of the room
falls rapidly. The coldest part is, of course,
in the window, where most of the plants are
usually kept ; and in order to make all safe when
there is any reason to expect a severe night's
frost, the plants should be removed from their
more exposed position to the centre of the room,
where, arranged in a close group and covered
with a few newspapers, they will be safe. When
possible, however, they should be stood in the
window, so as to obtain the full measure of light
which is so essential to the welfare of plants in
general. H. P.
CORDON FRUIT TREES FOR
SMALL GARDENS.
A LTHOUGH cordon fruit trees are un-
/\ doubtedly grown much more exten-
/ \ sively than they were ten or fifteen
/ \ yfars ago, amateurs generally do not
■* *• seem to appreciate anything like to
the fullest extent their value for
small gardens. This is rather curious, because
they are undoubtedly the type of tree par excellence
where space is limited, and when they are onoe
furnished with fruiting spurs are so simple to
manage that the veriest tyro could scarcely make
a mistake with them. Cordon trees may consist
of one, two, three, four, or even more stems, each
of which it is desirable to have covered with sturdy
fruit-spurs from as near the ground as possible
to the top. Generally speaking, however, those
with only one, or at the most two stems are the
most serviceable, those having more usually
being chosen for some special position, such as
a pillar or buttress to a wall, as shown in the
illustration on the next page.
Where to Grow Cordons.— Although this
simple type of fruit tree is usually regarded as
highly desirable for growmg against a wall or
fence, such positions are by no means essential
to their well-being. They will do almost, if not
quite, as well fastened to wires or other supports
beside the pathway in the garden, where they
take up but little room and provide a good supply
of the very best quality fruit. So as to get a
longer stem than would be obtainable if planted
upright, single and double cordons are usually
planted sloping at an angle of about 45°, and
preferably from south to north, so that they get
all the sun possible. When trained to a wall,
a slope in the direction named cannot, of course,
always be provided.
Planting. — -This can be carried out at any time
from early November until the middle of March,
providing the ground is not sodden or frozen
hard. Young trees can be obtained from any
of the fruit nurserymen advertising in The Garden,
and the earlier during the period named they
are put in the better. The soil must have been
previously well prepared by deep digging and
the adding of some well-decayed manure to the
bottom spit. It is not advisable to fasten the trees
to wall, fence, wires or other supports for two
or three weeks after planting, as, if the soil settles
very much, the roots will be drawn partly out of
the groimd. If supports are necessary to prevent
the trees being blown about in the meantime, a
few rough stakes thrust well into the ground, and
the trees tied lightly to them, will answer the
purpose.
Pruning. — As already hinted, this is a ven,-
simple matter indeed. The kinds of fruit most
suitable for growing as cordons are Pears, Goose-
berries, Red and White Currants, and most
varieties of Apples. These will all produce fruit
on short spurs or side growths, and it is to the
securing of these growths that the cultivator
must pay attention. Usually when cordon trees
are bought from the nursery they have two or
three sets, of spurs near the base, the remainder
of the main stem being of the current year's
growth. The spurs that are there may be left
alone and the main shoot cut back to a good
plump bud situated from a foot to 18 inches
from the uppermost spurs. Early next summer
all the dormant buds in this main shoot will
November 28, 1914-]
THE GARDEN.
577
produce growths, and about the end of June all
the side or lateral ones should be cut back to
within four buds of their bases. The main stem
or leader will, of course, be allowed to grow
unchecked. Any shoots produced from the
spurs must be cut back in the same way as advised
for side shoots on the upper part of the main
stem. If secondary side growth is made, this
should be cut or pinched back close to where the
cut was made in June. In the winter these side
shoots or stumps are cut to within two buds of
their bases, i.e., two of the four buds left at the
summer pruning are cut away. This is the way
that fruit-spurs are made. When the main
stem has reached the desired distance and is
covered with fruit-spurs, all that is necessary
is to cut in all side shoots at the summer pruning
and reduce the stumps at the winter pruning.
Owing to the hard cutting, it is not advisable to
grow Cherries or other stone fruits as cordons,
though in many localities Plums are grown in
this way and seem to do very well. The fruit
obtained from cordon trees, owing mainly
to the full exposure that it gets, is usually
of the very best quality, highly coloured, and
easily protected from birds by means of old fish-
netting. A. B. Essex.
SOME GOOD SHRUBS
FOR FORCI NG.
THE time has now arrived when those
who wish to make displays of forced
shrubs for greenhouse decoration in
spring should commence bringing their
plants into a little heat, for it is better
to bring them into flower gradually, by
allowing two or three weeks longer for forcing,
than to subject them to excessive heat in the hope
of flowers appearing quickly.
Forcing plants, it must be remembered, is a
source of some considerable amount of*work and
expense ; consequently it is advisable that really
good examples only should be requisitioned — not,
as sometimes happens, the leavings of a batch of
plants which were not considered good enough for
outdoor planting or half-worn-out shrubs from a
border. In some nursery gardens, more particu-
larly Continental ones, a speciality is made of
shrubs for this purpose, and really first-rate
material may be obtained at a moderate price.
When plants are grown specially for the work,
little but flowering wood is foimd, for all weak
shoots are removed to throw all possible strength
into the principal branches. Moreover, they are
not allowed to flower and so waste a certain amount
of energy in the intervening time between their
propagation and the period when they are ready
for the forcing-house. Special attention is given
to the ripening of the wood, and in some instances
the large roots are cut about the end of August to
check growth and facilitate ripening.
Assuming that such plants have been obtained
and that they are now in pots plunged out of
doors, it is as well to anticipate frost by scattering
leaves, hay or Bracken among them in order that
they may be lifted at will, even during an extended
period of frost. Should the plants not have been
procured, however, no time should be lost in
obtaining a supply, and if they can be had estab-
lished in pots, select them by all means.
Plants which are forced early are naturally
weakened more than those which are brought into
blossom nearer the normal time. For this reason
the owner has to consider whether it is better to
throw the plants away as soon as the flowers have
fallen, or whether it will pay him better to find
them house-room for a while and then plant them
out of doors for a season. The cheaper kinds are
often not worth keeping, but such as double-
flowered Peaches, Cherries and Wistaria sinensis
should be retained ; in fact, the Wistaria and
some of the double-flowered Cherries may be
grown in pots and forced successfully several
years in succession. Rhododendron sinense, better
known perhaps as Azalea mollis, is a plant which
does not pay for forcing a second year, while it
usually takes several years to become strong
enough to force a second timii Really fine plants
carrying forty or fifty buds may often be purchased
at from gd. to is. 3d. each, and when once forced
may either be planted out permanently or be
thrown away. Evergreen Rhododendrons, again,
rarely give satisfactory results if forced two years
in succession, but a year in nursery quarters is
often enough to enable them to pull themselves
together and set suf&cient buds to warrant their
being forced again. The Lilac is another shrub
which cannot be forced profitably in two successive
years, while it pays to let it have two years' rest
between the periods of forcing. The most satis-
factory results are
obtained by cutting
forced Lilacs well back
after flowering, then
allowing but a few
shoots to mature, the
remainder being
rubbed off while quite
small. The succeeding
year a few shoots only
are again left to
mature, which allows
the maximum of
strength to go to
these shoots to form
well - matured wood
and buds.
In most kinds good,
vigorous shoots are
required on plants
which are to be
forced, and this is par-
ticularly the case with
Spiraeas, D e u t z i a s ,
Forsythias, and the
double-flowered forms
of Prunus japonica,
P. triloba, K e r r i a
japonica and Peaches ;
but in a few instances
stunted growth proves
most productive of
flowers. The best
example of this is
Wistaria sinensis, for
it never blossoms
better than from
stunted spur- like
shoots.
The size at which
shrubs may be
forced depends on
the size of the forcing
structure, for though,
usually, compara-
tively small e X-
amples are used,
fully developed specinrens of Guelder Rose, Lilac,
Forsythia suspcnsa. Rhododendrons and nrany
other kinds may be requisitioned. Should large
plants not be required for future planting, but can
be thrown away as soon as the flowers are over,
the roots may be reduced to a moderate extent tO'
save pot room, or the balls may be bound up in
mats and stood in baskets or boxes during the time
they are indoors. It is always necessary to remove
forced shrubs from the forcing-house to a cooler
structure as the flowers begin to open, or the
flowering period will be a very short one. Flowers
which fall quickly, such as Azaleas, may be m^de
to remain on the plants for a fairly long period by
fixing them with floral gum, which may be obtained
from any seedsman or horticultural sundriesman.
It is only necessary to mention a few of the many
shrubs suitable for forcing' — others will readily
suggest themselves to the minds of those who wish
to force a larger collection : Spiraea arguta, S. van
Houttei, S. confusa, S. prunifolia flore p!eno,
Deutzia gracilis, D. parviflora, D. Lemoinei and
all the gracilis varieties and hybrids, Forsythia
suspensa, Prunus persica flore pleno, P. serrulata,
P. triloba, P. Pseudo-cerasus, P. japonica flore
pleno, Pyrus floribunda, P. Seheideckeri, Wistaria
sinensis, Neviusia alabamensis, Japanese Maples,
Weigela or Diervilla Eva Rathke and other kinds,
A PEAR TREE TRAINED TO COVER A BRICK PILLAR.
•578
THE GARDEN.
[November 28. 1914.
■ Viburnum Opulus sterile, V. tomentosum plicatum,
Robinia hispida inermis and Rhododendrons, deci-
duous and evergreen. All are, however, not suitable.
Of deciduous ones R. sinensis and its numerous varie-
ties and forms of R. flavum and R. cilendulaceum
are the best, while the earlier-flowering evergreen
kinds answer more satisfactorily than the later ones.
In addition to these there are many other kinds,
such as Magnolias, Hydrangeas and Kerrias, which
may be pressed into service. W.
THE INDIAN BEAN.
(Catalpa bignonioides.)
This is one of our most valuable flowering exotic
trees, there being nothing so showy among the
larger - growing trees which blossom
diuring July and August. There is
a further period of interest, if not
of exceptional beauty, during late
autumn and early winter, when the
trees are laden with long, slender.
Bean-like fruits. Catalpa bignonioides
forms a round-headed, wide-spreadin;?
tree 30 feet to 50 feet in height,
with large cordate leaves and white
flowers li inches across, spotted with
purple and yellow in the throat.
These are freely borne in large ter-
minal panicles, rather suggesting tlie
Horse Chestnut. A few of the flowers
mature fruits, usually from about
four to a dozen in each panicle.
During a fine autumn the trees are
much more heavily laden than when
it is wet and cold. The long, slender,
pendent fruits vary from 6 inches
to a foot in length, occasionally
more, and are rather thicker than
a pencil. They hang on the trees
for some time after the leaves have
fallen.
The Indian Bean Tree is a native
of the Eastern United States, and
was first introduced in 1726. Though
C. bignonioides is the better-known
name, C. syringcefolia is still used
by some cultivators. It is a very
good tree for towns, there being
several fine specimens in and
around London. Corning from the
Eastern United States, it will be
readily understood that the best
trees in this country are usually
found as lawn and park specimens
in the South and West of the
British Isles. The best method of
propagation is by seeds, though
•cuttings w^ll root in a frame during
the late summer. This year a medium-
sized tree growing near the Tem-
perate House at Kew has produced a very
heavy crop of these curious pods, so well
shown in the accompanying illustration, ard
has been a source of much interest to visitors.
This tree is situated by the canal beds at
the end of the Temperate House nearest King
William's Temple, and even as late as the
1 6th inst. was carrying a great many fruits.
It would be interesting to learn whether trees
growing in other parts of the country have
fruited well this year. We should be glad
to hear from any reader, pirticulariy in the
colder parts of the cnun'ry, who has noticed
5eed-pods.
PREPARING A ROCK GAR-
DEN FOR AUGUST AND
SEPTEMBER.
A'
GARDEN is a spot to be enjoyed all
the year round, but there are some
unlucky people who have to " crib,
cabin and confine " their gardening
instincts within tlie limits of the
holiday months of August and Sep-
tember, and in August, alas ! even Nature herself
inclines to take a little siesta. Then the rock
garden more especially loses some of its attraction
unless we can think out some flower-scheme
for that particular.season ; for wli'le there are
SEED-PODS OF THE INDIAN BEAN, CATALPA BIGNONIOIDES.
A TREE IS FRUITING VERY FREELY NEAR THE TEMPERATE
HOUSE AT KEW THIS YEAR.
plenty of bold and handsome plants, with flowers
of red and yellow shades innumerable, for the
perennial borders, the buxom vigour of these
would be quite out of place among lowlier rock
plants. It may be possible, perhaps, though
not very easy, to suggest some available material.
As a rule a rock garden is not immediately in
evidence, therefore no apology need be offered
for calling attention here to a fine August-flowering
shrub, or dwarf tree, which might very well find
a position on the way to it. Pavia macrostachya
is then very beautiful, though strangely seldom
met with. It is a kind of etherealised Horse
Chestnut, with graceful, fingered leaves drooping
below the tall, upright spikes of fringed white
flowers. This Pavia, with hardly the character-
istics of even a dwarf tree, for it does not exceed
8 feet or 9 feet in height, spreads by suckers
and requires a certain amount of room, but is
well worth the attention of those who have a
suitable position and space to give to it. Another
August-flowering shrub is the evergreen Olearia
Haastii, one of the New Zealand Daisy Bushes,
which covers itself with heads of closely packed
white flowers, not unlike those of Milfoil. This
appears to be quite hardy everywhere, and would
not be out of character in some aspects of rock
gardening ; but to prevent its becoming scraggy,
it should be trimmed a little into shape after
flowering. Caryopteris Mastacanthus, a pretty
blue-flowered shrub about two feet
high, which also flowers late, might
be used with advantage to break the
level of a low rocky bed.
Among true mountaineers we may
place in the forefront the Swiss Eryngium
alpinum — " la reine des Alpes " on M.
Correvon's authority — for, after all, not
all alpines crouch before the blast. E.
amethystinum is a very similar Dal-
matian species, though more straggling.
Both grow easily in dry soils and are
delightful plants, lasting through August
and well into September. E. oliverianum,
tlie species generally seen in English gar-
dens, is taller and more vigorous in habit
than either of the preceding. These are
becoming rare even in their own haunts
from the ruthless snatching of tourists —
all the more reason, therefore, for their
preservation in gardens. Then there are
several autumn-flowering Gentians. In
a moist bay at the foot of rocks — often
an accessory of an important rock garden
— where the soil is fairly deep, Gentiana
Pneumonanthe and its still more beauti-
ful white variety will be quite happy and
have no objection to sun and breeze.
The Willow Gentian (G. asclepiadea), on
the contrary, prefers a cool spot facing
north and reaches a height of 18 inches
or more. It grows naturally in damp,
rocky woods, but is not tied and bound
to such spots under cultivation. G.
Andrewsii, though not so ornamental as
some others, and best in bud, is, like the
above, another late-flowering lover of
damp spots. A charming Gentian of
lesser dimensions, G. ciliata, with fringed
flowers of a delicate soft blue, which grows
abundantly by rocky waysides in Luxem-
bourg and Germany, likes a drier position
and does well between stones. A Hima-
layan species, G. Kurroo, which has
tufts of narrow leaves and handsome
sky blue flowers, nearly two inches long, blooms in
August and September, and is much more amen-
able to cultivation than it was once supposed to
be, growing freely in suitable quarters, where it
likes to be left alone without disturbance. This
species enjoys moist but well-drained peat and
loam, and plentiful watering in summer.
Of autumn-flowering Campanulas there are
not many, but two or three may be mentioned.
C. tommasiniana, g inches to 12 inches high,
appears to be a later-flowering variety of C.
waldsteiniana, so nearly are they allied. The
trailing C. fragilis and C. isophylla, both Italian
species, and perhaps not over-hardy in all districts,
November 28, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
579
are due to flower in August and prefer semi-shade.
C. Allionii, 3 inches to 4 inches high, though not
always easy to manage, comes also in August
and is worth trying, as it may go on flowering
into September. C. carpatica lasts long through
the summer, and so does C. rotundifolia — the
Bluebell of Scotland and as charming as any —
but, in thinking of plants for August and Sep-
tember, it is safer to restrict ourselves to those
which naturally come into flower during those
months, otherwise a little variation in the season
may leave us bereft when we most want the
rock garden to look its best. It must always
be borne in mind, however, that locality, north or
south, makes all the difference in time of blooming.
The blue-flowered Cyananthus lobatus — a Hima-
layan scion of the same Bellflower order — is very
charming where it succeeds, and delights in sandy
peat and leaf-mould in a partly shaded position.
For a trailing plant to grow over the face of a
rock, another Himalayan plant. Polygonum
vaccinifolium, may be noted, the rosy
spikes of bloom, and leaves often
tinged with red in the autumn, being
seen to advantage draping the grey
surface of the stone. Thymes are
always delightful in autumn, and
especially the golden form of the
Lemon Thyme, which increases in
brightness of colouring as the year
advances. Snapdragons — wall plants
by nature — can be used most effec-
tively in their best forms. Of the
same genus, the creeping Antirrhinum
glutinosum, a true rock perennial,
though not a very long-lived one, will
spread its little mat of white Snap-
dragon flowers all through the summer
and autumn ; and also its near ally,
Linaria alpina, of brighter colouring,
is always welcome, and will sow
itself where it is happy.
Probably no upland plants are better
fitted to give autumn colour than some
■of the varieties of Heather and Ling.
There is the Cross-leaved Heath (Erica
Tetralix) for any moist, boggy spot ;
many varieties of Calluna or Ling,
for exposed positions ; the Scottish
Heather (E. cinerea) ; the Dorset
Heath (E. ciliaris) ; and the Cornish
Heath (E. vagans), a very bright and
lovely species which must be seen on
the moors of Lower Brittany to be
thoroughly appreciated — all of these
may be pressed into the service to make a Heather
garden. Most beautiful of all is the white form of the
Irish Heath (Daboecia polifolia), which can be freely
planted anywhere in Heath soil without fear of
clashing colours. The great point to remember is
that all of them are the better for a clipping after
the flowering season is past, or they are apt to get
ragged and lose much of their beauty. Naturally, a
■sandy peat soil suits them best, but they are not
dependent upon it, and these hardy Heaths come in
•svell sometimes where more fastidious plants fail.
For example, a rough bank, mostly clay with some
sand, much inclined to slip bodily away, and
hurriedly shored up with huge water-washed
boulders from the bed of a Welsh river — about as
unpromising material for rockwork, even of the
rudest kind,as could be found — was made quite beau-
tiful by a liberal planting of these brave Heaths.
But there are not many alpines, stiictly speaking,
that can be relied upon for late summer and
autumn blooming, and we must fall back upon
other types that may not be out of character
in the rock garden. Zauschneria californica is
one of these, and admirable for a position among
stones, for it insists on well-drained soil and as
sunny a location as can be found for it. The
scarlet tubular flowers are well set off by the
grey-green of the foliage, and charming when
seen in perfection. It appears, however, that
two varieties are in cultivation, one very free-
flowering, the other just the reverse, which is
often the cause of disappointment. Almost
everyone, too, would be pleased with the effect
of good clumps of the New Zealand Pheasant's-
tail Grass (Apera arundinacea) for raised positions,
especially when the slender, arching flowering
stems of shining brovm purple are in perfection,
as they are in August and September. It grows
from 18 inches to 2 feet high here in Sussex, and,
considering its merits, is not too well known. The
Iceland Poppy (Papaver nudicaule), which, though
work is done, when the stems should be cut away.
It must be admitted that this Convolvulus has a
fault, for, like all its tribe, it is apt to encroach ;
but it never becomes a pest, like those others, and
is generally beloved of all who grow it. It likes a
warm, sheltered position, and goes on flowering well
into the autumn. A longer list might be given if
other miscellaneous plants were included ; but it
is already long enough to show that the rock garden
in August and September need not be lacking in
flowers. K. L. D., in Country Life.
SEEDLING PINKS FOR WALL
GARDENS.
For dry retaining walls there are few more suit-
able plants than seedling Pinks, those wild kinds,
such as Dianthus deltoidea and D. plumarius,
seeds of which can be obtained from almost any
seedsman of repute. Apart from the additional
vigour that seedlings usually possess, there is
SEEDLING PINKS GROWING IN A DRY RETAINING WALL.
perennial, succeeds almost better treated as an
annual, comes into flower from early spring-sown
seeds by the end of July, and is at its best when
autumn-sown plants are over. The tiny Alpine Poppy
is a miniature edition of the same — so botanists
tell us — though for garden purposes it is entirely
distinct, and does well under similar treatment.
In Northern gardens, Heuchera sanguinea
will produce its lovely coral spikes at this season.
Viola cornuta, too, in its improved purple form,
is very attractive, and Red Valerian (Centranthus
ruber), especially in its so-called scarlet form,
a plant to be placed on some high point of vantage
where it can be seen from afar, is very fine ; but
all these would come under the head of summer
flowers in the Southern Counties. Where a
twining plant is wanted, Convolvulus althjeoides —
a slender, silvery-leaved perennial with rose-
coloured flowers — is desirable, both in leaf and
flower, and dies down for the season after its
generally some variation in the colour of the
flowers, which, to all e.\cept expert alpine plant
lovers, and even to some of them, is pleasing.
The seed is usually sown in early spring in pans
or boxes filled with sandy soil, these being stood
in a cold or very slightly heated frame until
germination, which may be rather slow, is effected.
As soon as large enough the seedlings are pricked
off into other pans or boxes, and subsequently
either transferred direct to the walls or trans-
planted into nursery beds, where they stay until
the autumn or the following spring. Where
seedling Pinks are available now, they may safely
be planted in dry walls, providing the roots are
disturbed as little as possible. They appreciate
gritty loam, and if a little old mortar can be
mixed with it, so much the better. Even when
not in bloom the glaucous grey foliage of many
of these seedling Pinks is very charming, especially
during the winter months. D. D.
580
THE GARDEN.
[November 28, 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruit Under Glass.
Strawberry Plants for Forcing.— If ripe
Strawberries are desired early in tlie year, no
time should be lost in selecting the plants and
placing them under cover. Well-rooted plants
with prominent crowns are best for this purpose,
and if worms are present in the pots, these may
be destroyed by watering with weak lime-water,
which should be given in sufficient quantitv to
moisten all the soil. The best way to start' the
plants into growth is to plunge the pots in a gentle
hot-bed composed of Oak leaves, which should
be trodden tightly together in a brick pit until
the top of the bed is within a foot of the roof glass.
When the temperatture of the bed reaches 70°,
the plants may be plunged to the rims of the pots ;
but care must be taken that the tempeiature of
the bed does not become too high, or the roots
will suffer in consequence.
Peach Trees in Late Houses.— These should
be pruned and trained with as little delay as
possible. Cleanse the house thoroughly and
see that the border is in good order. If the roots
are near the surface, all that is necessary is to
remove an inch of surface soil and replace it with
loam and bone-meal. This must be made mode-
rately tight, and if the border is at all dry, give
a good soaking of clear soft water.
Cucumber Plants from which supplies are
being gathered should be given a night temperature
of 70°. Keep the growth well within bounds
by frequently pinching the leading shoots. All
rough, overgrown leaves must be removed to make
room for young fruitful shoots, which should
be pinched at the first or second joint beyond the
fruit. Top-dress the bed lightly as often as the
young roots appear through the soil, and promote
a humid atmosphere by frequently damping the
walls and floor of the house.
Plants Under Glass.
Propagating Chrysanthemums.— As soon as
good, healthy cuttings are available, they should
be inserted in small, clean pots of sandy soil
and placed in a cool propagating-pit. This ought
to be kept quite close until young roots have
been produced. Cuttings should be selected from
the bases of the plants, and never more than
2 inches long. Care must be taken that the base
of each cutting rests on the soil, which should be
made moderately firm. As soon as the cuttings
begin to make fresh growth, they must be gradually
accustomed to light and air imtil they are removed
from the propagating-pit to a more exposed
position.
Watering Palms.— All Palms in a healthy
condition require a liberal supply of water at the
roots, especially when strong fire-heat is necessary
to keep the temperature as it should be, as under
these circumstances the atmosphere is liable to
become too dry. This must be guarded against
by frequently syringing the plants and their
surroundings, in order to keep insect pests in
check. Some stimtdants should be applied
occasionally to keep the plants in good health.
Salvia splendens. — As these plants pass out
of flower, a few of the healthiest specimens ought
to be slightly cut back and placed in gentle heat
for the purpose of producing cuttings, and these
should be inserted in small, clean pots of sandy
soil as soon as they are large enough to handle.
S'ight bottom-heat will be an advantage, and as
soon as sufficient roots have been made, the
syringe must be freely applied to keep red spider in
check.
The Flower Garden.
Violas. — It is not too late to propagate Violas
for spring planting, providing the plants were
cut back a month ago, for by this time numerous
young shoots will have been produced, and when
the old plants are pulled to pieces many of the
shoots will have formed roots. These should
be inserted in sandy soil in frames about a foot
from the glass, and may be kept close for a week
or two ; but when once established, air must be
freely given to keep them from becoming drawn.
During mild days the lights should be removed
with the same object in view.
Antirrhinums. — Young plants raised from
autumn-sown seeds which are intended to flower
in May and June ought to be pricked into shallow
boxes as soon as large enough to handle. After
this has been accomplished, the boxes should be
placed on a bed of ashes near the glass in a cold
pit. Ventilate freely after the plants have become
established and do all that is possible to keep
them stocky.
Lawns. — Nothing is more detrimental to the
appearance of an establishment than a badly
kept lawn, occupying as it does a position near
the mansion. Frequent sweeping and rolling is
necessary during the winter, especially if the
weather is mild. A light dressing of decayed
horse-manure should be applied to the grass in
early winter, and this ought to be frequently
brushed in among the grass while the weather
is mild. Clip the edgings and do all that is possible
to give the place a smart appearance.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Sweet Cherries. — The pruning and training
of these trees should be pushed forward as quickly
as possible. If the young shoots have been
carefully stopped diu-ing the summer, very little
'vill be necessary now beyond thinning some of
the worthless wood from the spurs and cutting
back the leading shoots to within a foot of last
season's growth. In tying the shoots to the wires,
great care is necessary that they are not fastened
too tightly, for Sweet Cherries are very subject to
canker, and this is frequently the cause. Cherrv trees
in the open plots or in the orchard should' have
their branches freely thinned, and young growth
be cut back to within a few eyes of the previous
season's growth with a view to producing fruiting
spurs.
The Kitchen Garden.
Spring Cabbage.— When the ground is in a
suitable condition, the surface should be lightly
broken up with a hoe and any blanks made up
with plants from the seed-bed. The remainder
of these ought to be pricked out 4 inches apart,
and will make good, strong plaitts ready to put
out in March. From these a good supply
should be available in July.
Mustard and Cress.— Make weekly sowings
and cover the seeds with sheets of paper. A
slightly heated pit is best for this purpose.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
French Beans. — Where ample accommodation
is at command, the forcing of these can be carried
out almost throughout the season. For ordinary
purposes, however, the present will be soon enough
to make a start, where these have to be grown in
pots. The number of seeds to be sown must be
determined by the demand, but it is best to make
a small sowing, say, once a fortnight, than to
put in a large number at once. Ordinary garden
soil, with the addition of some good loam, will
suit them admirably. When the Beans are a
few inches high, they should be supported by
small stakes or twigs, otherwise the result will be
a tangle.
Cauliflowers.— The plants that are being
wintered in frames need to be frequently examined
at this season, and, unless in very severe weather,
the lights must be kept open'. An occasional
dusting of soot or lime will not only ward off
slugs, but tend to sweeten the atmosphere.
Potatoes. — If the sets intended for early forcing
were put in boxes to start, as advised at the begin-
ning of the month, they should now be sufficiently
advanced to be planted. If only a very few are
required for early forcing, these could be grown
in large pots ; but for the most part those planted
out in heated pits will be found to give by far
the better results. Before planting, fork some
leaf-mould into the soil, which will tend to keep
the tubers dry.
Lettuce. — Any plants that were left outside on
a sheltered border should be carefully lifted with
a good ball of soil attached and planted in cold
frames. These will be found to come in very
handy at a time when salads are at a premium. '
Carefully remove all decayed leaves and see that
the plants are not overmoist at the roots, which
would cause damping.
The Flower Garden.
Shrubs. — In many districts it is necessary j
to aiford protection to some of the more tender
trees and shrubs, and if not already done, this
should be seen to at once. On no account must
any shrub be bound up with mats as if it were
leaving the nursery to be despatched on a long
journey. This is not only unsightly, but injurious.
A few branches of Spruce or Yew tied round
will be found to be ample, or for smaller subjects
dry Bracken will meet the case. When the
weather interferes with digging or turfing, the
shrubbery should be gone over, all dead branches
cut away, and the whole made tidy.
Rock Plants.— The greatest care should be
taken of those choice rock plants that have been
transferred to frames for protection during the
winter season. When it is remembered that
they suffer more from dampness than cold, it
will be seen how necessary it is to admit air on
all favourable occasions. If in pots, these should
be plunged in pure sand, and if planted out,
the same material ought to be used, with the
addition of some powdered charcoal. Look
over the plants from time to time and remove all
decayed leaves and anythmg that would create
dampness.
Lobelia cardinalis. — Owing to the absence
of frost, this plant continued to bloom very late
in the season ; indeed, it was still flowering here
during the first week in November, and the lifting
and storing of the roots was delayed in consequence.
Any plants still in the ground should be lifted
at once and placed in boxes. These are best
stood in a frame or shed and kept moderately dry.
Plants Under Glass.
Begonia Gloire de Sceaux. — This fine winter-
flowering subject will now be coming into bloom,
and should be placed where the atmosphere is
somewhat dTy. As the plants will have exhausted
the soil in the pots, artificial feeding must
be resorted to. This may take the form of liquid
manure, with an occasional dusting of Clay's
Fertilizer.
Poinsettias. — These will now be developing
their bracts, and in the case of the most forward,
artificial feeding should be discontinued. Those
intended for later use may still be given liquid
manure. To preserve the blooms in a cut state, the
stems ought to be dipped in a few inches of boiling
water immediately they are cut.
Campanula pyramidalis. — Although this is
more or less hardy in many districts, still, in the
Northern Counties, the plants will be all the better
for the protection of a cold fr.ame or a late Peach-
house. Young plants should be kept growing, ^
and may be potted into 6-inch pots as they are I
required. H
The Hardy Fruit Garden. |
Pruning. — As all the trees will now be divested
of their leaves, pruning may be proceeded with
on all favourable occasions. This work should
only be done by a person having a knowledge
of the various varieties of trees to be pruned.
In the case of bush or standard trees, perhaps all
that will be necessary will be the removal of a
branch here and there. On the other hand, if
young trees have been summer pruned, as already
advised, very little pruning will be required.
Fruit Under Glass.
Late-Keeping Grapes.^Grapes still hanging
will require to be very carefully attended to at
this time, chiefly in keeping the house properly
ventilated and examining the bunches for decayed
berries. The cutting and bottling of Grapes must
be determined by a number of circumstances,
chiefly the nature of the variety and the crop the
rods arc carrying. As a rule, however, all except
Lady Downe's and any other very late Grape
can with safety be cut and bottled now. Very
often rats play great havoc among latc-kecping
Grapes still hanging. Oae rat alone will account
for two or three bunches in a night. As a
precautionary measure, in addition to trapping,
a quantity of Furze may be tied round the rods
near the ground.
John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopeloun Gardens, South Quccnslcrry, N.B.
November 28, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
581
NEW AND RARE PLANTS.
AWARDS OF MERIT.
Carnation Pink Sensation. — The sensational
aspect of this handsome Perpetual-flowering variety
is most probably reflected in the fine proportions
of the flower, in which respect as shown it is far
away the largest of its race which has yet seen
the light. Wedded to this is that tone of pink
which sells. We did not detect any perfume in
the variety.
Chrysantliemiun Meudon.— This is a variety
of the exhibition type, a sort of intermediate
between incurving and reflexed. The flower-head
is deep, well filled and handsome, the pink petals
having a silvery reverse. It is good and distinct.
The Carnation and this came from Messrs. W.
Wells and Co., Merstham, Rcdhill.
Chrysanthemum Sir Tony. — A single-flowered
sort of moderate size and of intense bronze hue,
quite a remarkable shade of colour. The dis-
tinctly reflexing or drooping floret tips add
character and charm to a particularly pleasing
variety. From Mr. W. J. James, Famham Royal.
Odontoglossiun crispum Millee. — This hand-
some variety is characterised by large size, good
form, and pure white flowers of great substance
tipped with brown on the lip. It is a very striking
and beautiful sort. From Messrs. Flory and
Black, Slough.
Sophro-Cattleya November. — The sepals and
petals are of rich rosy purple hue, very deep and
intense, the scarlet-shaded lip adding fire and
light to a very beautiful flower. The latter has
a distinctly rounded outline. The plant is very
dwarf habited. From J. Gurney Fowler, Esq.,
Brackenhurst, Pembury, Kent.
All the foregoing were shown before the Royal
Horticultural Society on the 17th inst., when
the awards were made.
protection during winter. Cuttings of young
shoots root freely il inserted under a bell-glass in
early autumn. A sunny bank sheltered from the
north and east, with a rich, well-drained loam,
seems to suit this useful late-flowering shrub out
of doors,"
CULTIVATION AND COL-
LECTION OF MEDICINAL
PLANTS IN ENGLAND.
THE EDITOR'S TABLE.
Choice Shrubs from Scotland. — Mr. R. Findlay,
Logan Gardens, Stranraer, sends from the open
flowers of quite a number of choice shrubs that
are usually cultivated in the greenhouse. These
include Eupatorium wienmannianum, Cassia
corymbosa and two varieties of Abutilon. Mr.
Findlay writes ; "I enclose a few sprays of various
greenhouse shrubs cut from the open garden,
showing how well these things grow in our mild
climate, and these late-flowering shrubs are so
valuable in the garden in autumn. The garden
at this date is really wonderful, owing to the long
time of bright sunshine we have had. Eupa-
torium wienmannianum, a South American shrub,
is generally grown as a cool greenhouse subject for
decorating or for furnishing a supply of cut flowers ;
but in the milder parts of the South- West it
flourishes freely in the open. The plants under
notice have now been in the open for a number of
years, and have not suffered to any extent from
frost. They are growing in a slightly shaded
position and usually begin flowering about the
middle of September, and, providing we escape
early frosts, continue to do so during October and
the greater part of November. This is a most
desirable species, with large corymbs of sweet-
scented white flowers produced with the greatest
freedom. It is probably hardier than it is generally
thought, as I saw a fine plant of this flowering
freely on a sunny bank in the grounds of Castle
Kennedy, which, Mr. Cruden assured me, had no
[The following lias been recently published as
Leaflet No. 288 by the Board of Agriculture.]
{Continued from page 571.)
FENNEL (FCENICULUM CAPILLACpUM, GILIBERT).
The cessation of the supply of the fruits of this
species of Fennel from the Continent may tempt
farmers to try to grow Fennel in this country.
Any crop produced is almost certain to sell well.
Fennel likes plenty of sun, and is adapted to dry
and stony situations, but yields best on rich soil
on the stiff side. From 4jlb. to 5lb. of seed are
correct conditions of shade and moistvure. Several
times the amount of drug now used would be
absorbed for making fluid extract of hydrastis
and the alkaloids hydrastine and hydrastinine.
Cultivation. — The native home of Golden Seal
is in deep, shady nook? in American forests with
rich, deep soil full of natural moisture, but not
waterlogged. To imitate natural soil conditions,
beds should be double dug in autumn, and plenty
of leaf-mould or well-rotted peat manure should
be dug in during autumn. A second and similar
treatment should follow in spring before planting.
The beds may be arranged under natural or artificial
shade — either under trees or under lattice work.
The object aimed at is to protect plants from the
heat of the midday sun, and from heavy rain and
drying winds. Beds made in orchards and
arranged so that the fruit trees shade them at
midday would seem adapted for this purpose.
The beds could be sunk several inches if deficient
in natural moisture. A 2-inch drain with good fall
15 inches below the surface should prevent water-
logging on wet soils. Golden Seal has been success-
fully grown in the shade of Apple trees near Moscow.
VEGETABLES SHOWN BY MESSRS. SUTTON AND SONS AT THE LAST ROYAL HORTICUL-
TURAL society's SHOW. GROWN FROM SEEDS SOWN SINCE THE OUTBREAK OF WAR.
sown per acre. In the mild climate of France
the seed is usually sown in August or September,
but spring sowing would be necessary in England.
The fruit is heavy, and a crop of iscwt. per acre
would probably be obtained. Cutting should be
done before the fruits are fully ripe, as in the case
of Dill.
Fennel is largely used for cattle condiments,
and Indian or Levant produce will probably be
used for these. The usual price for German
Fennel is about 35s. per cwt., and an English
crop should be grown with good profit at this
price. Levant Fennel sells at 25s., and East
Indian at 20s. per cwt.
GOLDEN SEAL (HYDRASTIS CANADENSIS, L.).
Prospects. — Golden Seal is an American drug,
the price of which has risen from 5s. per lb. in
r905 to 20s. or more in September. Such a high
price enables cultivation to be practised on a
commercial scale both in America and in England,
even with the great expense of artificial shading
in order to simulate natural conditions. Cultiva-
tion of this drug might become a paying proposition
to anyone who could solve the problem of the
Golden Seal is propagated by dividing up the-
rhizomes of old plants in late spring (April or
May). These bear prolific lines of dormant buds
from end to end of the rhizome, and a living piece
containing one of these wiU grow under suitable
conditions. The pieces are planted in rows
6 inches apart with i foot between the rows. The
plant usually bears a single leaf the first year, and
two leaves and a single flower the second year.
Golden Seal is a slow but persistent grower under
suitable conditions, the time between planting
and harvesting being three years. The plants
should increase fourfold in two seasons by dividing
up the rhizomes. A light mulch of leaves in
autumn affords the best protection from frost.
Hydrastis can be grown from fresh seeds, which
germinate slowly, but the seedlings do well if they
get over the first season in a strong' condition.
The seeds are sown in fine potting soil and covered
lightly. In all transplanting operations the grow-
ing beds must not be trodden upon. If artificial
shade is necessary, this could be given by slats
overhead arranged to turn on edge or lie flat, on
the lattice window-blind principle. The initial
582
THE GARDEN.
[November 28, iqi4
difficulty would probably be to obtain a supply
of cuttings of the living rhizome.
Yield. — After initial experiments commenced in
1S99 on a small plot at Washington, the United
States Department of Agriculture gave the pro-
duction as 5,i20lb. of fresh roots per acre, or
i.goolb. of marketable roots. In rgia the Depart-
ment reported that the cultivation of Golden Seal
•was " successfully established."
(To be conlinucd.)
ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
FLOWER GARDEN.
SOME GOOD MICHAELMAS DAISIES (A. 5.).— The
undermentioned varieties arc amontz the very best in the
■sections named, and can be depended upon to produce
a splendid display in the autumn : Aster cordifolius
section — Aldeboran, Little Boy Blue, Sweet Lavender,
Little Bo-Peep, Ideal and White Diana. Aster ericoides
section — Perfection, Desire, Hon. Edith Gibbs, Simplicity,
Star Shower and Daydream. Aster vimineus section —
Freedom, Osprey, Esther, Delight, White Heather and
Hon Vicary Gibb?.
HOW TO HYBRIDISE MICHAELMAS DAISIES {E. H.).
— This is very simple, but requires niuch patience and
perseverance to effect any startlin-,' novelties, as one must
be prepared for a very large majority to be practically
worthless. It is contended by many that the various
spec'os will not cress. This is not so, as many of the
more beautiful varieties now in cultivation have been
produced .n this way. Immediately the flowers of
the varieties it is intended to cross are fully developed,
the pollen should be taken from one to the other and some
light gauze placed over the flowers to prevent bees inter-
fering with them. The seed should be picked when ripe
and sown immediately in light sandy soil, raised in gentle
heat, and planted out the follo\\ing spring.
PLANT FOR WALL GARDEN (F. A. Eyn).— You
ask for a plant for this purpose, though the context of
your letter rather implies that you are referring to a small
" walled-in " garden, which is another matter. For
the latter you miglit plant Spirseas, Lillums candidum,
tigrinum, croceum and umbellatum in variety, Phloxes
of sorts where the shade is not dense, Solomon's Seal,
Foxgloves, Canterbury Bells, Lily of the Valley, Lenten
and Christmas Koses, and quite a series of Flag Irises,
which alone might with proper treatment prove a signal
success. In the shadier parts Ferns, Squills and Prim-
roses would be very charming. If we have wrongly
interpreted the meaning of your letter, please write us
again. The best time to secure the plumes of
Pampas Grass is when they are about three parts
matured. Their fleeciness is increased by washing
and drying to some extent, though this, together
with their form and silveriness, is often much more a
-cjuestion of variety alone. To some extent we believe
the plumes are artificially bleached, though we are not
acquainted with the exact process.
Therefore you require your greenliousc at liberty early,
so that there will be no halting between two opinions.
In commercial gardening for profit, whether under irlass
or elsewhere, crops are required to work the one with the
other, so that there will be no gaps and no loss of time.
You have, as a matter of fact, to keep in mind the well-
kno%vTi adage of "what you lose on the swings you must
make up on the roundabouts," and work the crops accord-
ingly. It is, in short, all a question of wheel within wheel,
and for the reasons stated Sweet Peas will be in the way
of Tomatoes. In so limited a sphere you require a few
fixed crops, crops that have definite flowering periods, and
which, having finished their function, may be cleared out
with impunity. To this end no set of crops would prove
so profitable as forced Daffodils and Tulips for the winter,
with Tomatoes and Clirysanthemums for succession.
The first named would require some outlay and knowledge,
and possibly also a little expert professional advice at
the outset to put you fairly on your feet. It would,
however, be worth doing.
MlSrFI 1 ANROUS.
NAMES OF PLANTS.— R. F. C— Not recognisable in
thi' rondition sent; send again next vear when developed.
TT. Philpoits. — Tlie Strawberry Tree, Arbutus ITnedo.
Prnpa':'ated by seeds .-own in sand in cold frame in M^rch.
NAMES OF FRUIT.— H. Xes(*^r.— Apples : 9, Lord
Grosvenor; 10, Mank's Cidlin; 15, Striped Beaufln ; 19,
Kentish Fillbasket; 23, Pickerinc's Seedlin? ; 24, N -Icon's
Oodlin. pears : 1, Belle Julie ; 3, Durondeau ; 4,
Doyenrfi du Comire. J. P. — 1. Glastonburv; 2.
Mignate; 3. decayed: 4, B"urr6 Clair^^au ; 5, B 'ur'$
Hardy; 6. Uvedale's S*. Germain ; 7, Mvrie Guise; 8,
.TosephMie de M'^'im-s : 9, Beurrfi Sterckm-in ; 10,
Durondeau; 1], B''ur'6 Dubuisson ; 12, Dann's Hovny.
H. Chnpmnn. — Adam's Pearmain. Enst Tlants. —
1. Braniley*s Seedling; 2, American Mother; 3.
Hambledon deux Ans.
SOCIETIES.
THE GREENHOUSE.
GRUBS IN BEGONIA TUBER (H. £.). — The larva;
are those of the weevil Otiorrhynchus picipes. We
recommend you to turn all the plants out of ihe pots and
shake the pest out. It may also be attacking Pelargoniums,
Cyclamen and Primulas if you grow them, and these
should be attended to in the same way.
ADVICE ON OLEANDERS (E. F. Browne).— One
reason why the floweis of the Oleander fail to develop
is lack of nourishment at a critical time. They need a
liberal quantity of water during the summer months,
with frequent applications of weak liquid manure!
Another cause tliat is apt to prevent the flowers opening
is that frequently young shoots are pushed out immediately
below the head of flower-buds, and if these arc not removed
they grow away freely at the expense of the buds, which,
consequently, make no further b.eadway. You may,
if you wish to do so, cut back yotir plants next March,
when, if kept warm and frequently bedewed with the
syringe, they will soon start again into gro\\'th. As soon
as young shoots are pushed forth, tlie plants may be
repotted or given a good tcp-dressing. Thouah this
treatment would lead to the production of more bushy
plants, it is very doubtful if you would tret any flowers
ne.xt season. For the successful cuhivalion of the Oleander
protection from frost is necessary; therefore your plants
would not survive the winter outside even if planted in
a sheltered spot.
WORKING GREENHOUSE PROFITABLY (P. Tmks).—
If you will take advice that is lacked liy forty yen's or
so of practical nursery training and exiirrience of such
questions as that to which your letter refers, it is containt^d
in two words, viz., " Don't dabble." You say you have
80 many dozens of Carnations and Chrysanthemums, and,
of the former, that number of dozens is just that number
too many. In other words, you do not want them:
they will be in your way. The Chrysanthemums may
be all right if the sorts are right, but of that we have no
information. If the Tomato is to be your main summer
crop, you want that crop early, when prices rule high.
ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.
The fortnightly meeting held on the 17th inst. was of
unusual variety, excellerce and interest, the several depart-
ments— vesetables , Orchids ar d flowering plant s^ — -
beina well represented. In the latter the great avenue
of Chrysanthemums from Lewisham outclassed everythinr
else, jiist as did the vegetable collection of Messrs. Sutton
at the other extreme in its way. This last, indeed,
possessed an importance of its o^ti, at once national and.
therefore, far-reaching, as well as of high educational
value. It will doubtless remain as an obiectdesson
for all time. Orchids, if not numerously sbo\\Ti, were
full of beauty and variety. Carnations and Violets
charmed by their fragrance, and were creatly admired
by the lartre number of visitors. The Orchid committee
yave awards of merit to two, and the floral committee
to three, novelties.
Floral Committee.
Present: H. B. May, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs.
E. A. Bowles, F. W. Harvey, J. W. Barr, J. Green, W. J.
Bear, G. Beuthe, T. Stevenson, C. K. Fielder, C. Blick,
J. Hudson, J. F. McLeod, J. jenninrs, J. Dickson, A.
Turner, .T. T. Bennett-Pog, C. E. Pearson, W. P. Thomson,
E. H. Jenkins, W. Howe, W. A. Bilney. C. Dixon, W. B.
Cranfleld and J. W. Moorman.
Messrs. H. B. May and Sons, Edmonton, displayed
a table of winter-flowering plants, among which were
nice displays of Cyclamen in white, rcse and carmine
shades, and the liewer winter-flowering Begonias. Of
these latter, Optima (orange), Mrc. Heal (carmine) and
Exquisite w.^rc the most imporlant. The Gem (very
dwarf, carmine rod), Gloire de Lorraine and Glory of
Cincinnati (both very charming) were also in this group.
Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Enfield, also had a charming
display of winter-flowering plants, the Begonias bearing
that name being prominent. Of these, Exquisite (deep
pink and white). Fascination (orange), Mrs. Heal (carmine)
Scarlet Beauty, Emita (deep orange) and The Gem were
the more important. Cyclamen, Statice profusa and
Acacias were also shown. In a separate group a feature
was made of winter-flowering Carnations, the huge vases
containing such good things as Satin Kobe, Philadelphia,
Gorgeous, Princess Dat-mar (crimson, with fine Clove
scent), Mrs. Mackay Edgar (pink), together with Snow-
storm and White Perfection (whites).
Messrs. Godfrey and Son, Exmouth, displayed a table
of single-flowered Chrysanthemums in variety. Such as
Eldorado, Miss Margaret Gildley (bronze), Golden Mensa,
Atollie Godfrey (rose amaranth), Audrey (golden). Gold
Cur, Cardinal (red) and Market Queen (double, an improved
Nivens) wire all flne.
Miss Baird, West Malvern, set up a small yet artistically
arranged group of Clirysanthemums.
Messrs. Barr and Sons, Covent Garden, W.C., staged a
variety of Nerines, also such good hardy flowers as
Kniphofla aloides glanceseens, Irises stylosa and alba,
Cvclanien neapolitanum. MHiitc Hoop-Pettiroat Narcissus,
Gnlanthus Elwesi and fine vases of Helleborus altifolius
(the latter verv flne).
Mr. Charles' Bliek, Hayes, Kent, showed plants of a
capital pink-flowered Perpetual-flowering Carnation named
Princess Marie Jo'^6. It is pleasing in colour and of much
refinement.
The Misses Hopkins. Shepperton-on-Thames, had a
nice lot of Gentian flowers, together with flowering
examples of Hypericum empetrifolium. Primula cnpitata
and Lobelia cafdinalis, in a group of lardy alpine flowers.
air. G. W. Tyser, Oakfleld, Mortimer, had specinn n
tra3 8 of exhibition Chrysanthemums, chiefly of the incur\»d
section. They were a nicely grown lot.
Messrs. Felton and Sons, Harover Square, exhibiiMl
vases of the handsome single-flowered Chrysanthemi ni
Isobel Felton, which is of clear yellow colour. 11 •
\ ariety was about six inches across, and of a fine decorati\ e
excellence
Mr. C. knaclmann, Salfron Waldcn, had a sumptuol.s
let of Carnations, the \ascs of Carola, Scarlet Carola,
Enchantress Supreme, Fanny (fancy). Champion {scarlet).
White Enchantress, wniite Wonder and Ladj Northclifri-
teing exceptionally flne. Gorgeous was also in gcod
condition.
The Misses Price and Fyfe, Grove Park Nursery, Lee.
S.E., displayed some nice vases of Carnations, Mandarii ,
a yellow-Kround fancy, being particularly good. ExcelleM
vases of Chrysanthemums, as llazzler, Golden Kin; ,
Snow Queen and K. F. Felton (gold), were very flne.
)Iessr.s. Allwood Brothers, Hayward's Heath, showed
splendid vases of Carnations Wivclsflcld White, Mary
Allwood, Salmon Enchantress, Princess Dagmar (crimson).
Philadelphia (pink). Champion (scarlet), Fairmount
(heliotrope). Gorgeous, and Bishton Wonder (heliotrore
self). Many others were shown in smaller array.
Mr. Clarence Elliott, Stevenage, again showed a quantity
of Gentiana acaulis flcwers, together with Iris alata and
a variety of alpines, of which many were in flower.
Mr. J. Kettle, Corfe JIullen, Dorset, showed Violets in
delightful variety. La France, Princess of Wales.
Ascania (all of the large-flowered set), Mrs. Arthur, Mrs.
Kettle and iilrs. Astor (varying shades of blue in the
doubles) were also well represented.
Earl Brownlow, Ashridge, Kent (gardener, Mr. Robert-
son), sent a display of winter-flowering Begonias. Lady
Cooper (deep salmon), Apricot, Clibran's Pink and Scarlet
Beauty being the more prominent.
A large group of Chrysanthemums, entirely composed
of single-flowered sorts, was staged on the floor opposite
the entra ce by JNIessrs. Peed and Sons, West Norwood,
S.E. Some of the more distinct were Doreen (jolden),
Nora Peed (bronze), Phyllis (reddish). Golden Mensa,
Stuart Smith (white), Margaret de Quincey (pink), Portia
(chestnut red) and Sir Walter Scott (rich yellow).
Mr. L. 11. Russell, Richmond, showed a group of berried
shrubs, Pernettya, Skimmia, Aueuba, Crstaigus and
others, in pots, with Cotoneaster, the Strawberry Tree and
Hollies.
Messrs. Wills and Segar, South Kensington, had a nice
lot of Lrica hyemalis rosea and E. nivalis (the latter a mass
of pearly bells). Orange trees in fruit were also a feature.
Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston, Kent, had a choice lot of
Nerines, of which N. flcxuosa alba and N. pudica were
very beautiful. ']'ropa?oleum tuberosum was in good
condition, also Sternbcrgia lutea.
.Messrs. W. Wells and Co.. Limited, Merstham, had
Chrysanthemums Merstham Jewel (bronze), Mrs. Loo
Thompson (soft yellow), Mary Morris (flne bronze single),
W. Rigby (rich yellow) and Queen Mary (both of great
size), Commodore (crimson) and Mensa (white).
Messrs. W. Cutbush and Sons, Highgate, N., had
choice Carnations in vases, White Swan, Triumph, Sunstar,
Lady Ingestre and Wiite Enchantress being the more
important.
Messrs, J. Hill and Sons, Barrowflcld Nurseries, Edmon-
ton, had a glorious table of Ferns, chiefly in specimen
form and admirably grown withal. Among the best
was a very flne example of Onyehium auratum, of very
delicate tracery and beauty. It was, indeed, a charming
plant. Polypodium crispum (fine glaucous tone). Davallia
tcnuifolia Veitchii, Gleichenia semi-vestita, Adiantnm
scutum, Gleichenia ^[endelii, .\diantum trapeziforme,
Polypodium irioides ramo-cristatum, Gleichenia longi-
pinnata, Asplenium serra (Brazil) and Davallia ciliata
were all imposing specimens and finely grown. Some
excellent pieces of Platyccrium were also noted in the
group, and a nice specimen of the rarely seen Marattia
attenuata.
Messrs. H. J. Jones, Limited, Lewisham, S.E., were
awarded a gold medal for what in effect was a great avenue
of Chrysanthemums, brought into being by tabic displays
arranged at right and left of a spacious gangway. Through
this it was possible to promenade and view the flowers
at will, and certainly nothing finer of its kind has ever
been displayed. Following their well-known style,
tall vases and stands 4 feet or so high were employed
in the background, each containing a score or so of hand-
some flowers. In this way some five hundred giant
flowers of exhibition standard were utilised, to say nothing
of front vases containing single and decorative sorts
galore. We have not space to do justice to such an
i"mposing array of the " Queen of Autumn Flowers," and
give a few of the best. C. H. Curtis, yellow incurved,
appealed by reason of reflucmcnt and colour. Bob
Pulling is a glorious vellow. Mrs. R. C. Pulling is a yellow
Japanese and very large. Lady Grace is while and
mauve. Sir William Dunn (crimson) has a gold reverse.
Jlrs. Bai is a lovely pink Japanese. Mrs. H. Eland
(mauve), Miss Archer and Junon (pink) are a trio of
Anemone-flowered sorts ; while Audrey (yellow). Jessica
(golden amber). Buttercup (golden yellow). Excelsior
(terra-rotta) and Arthur Harvey (deep rose pink) are a
set of singles calculated, we think, to satisfy overylmdy.
Mr. Amos Perry, Enfleld, again showed hardy FiTiis,
tho group on this occasion being of Polystiehums and
Scolopendriums, the latter in many of the finest tasselled
varieties. All were varieties of S. villgare, and included
grande. latifolium, cristatum, digitatum. grandiceps,
with all the more distinct and ornamental of the ramo-
cristatum forms and others akin. We welcome these
plants for their evergreen qualities as niueh as for their
flne ornament.
■«» ^fe»-
GARDEN,
No. 2246.— Vol. LXXVIII.
December 5, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Honour for a Colchester Firm. — Messrs. R.
Wallace and Co. of Kilnfield Gardens, Colchester,
have just received the Royal Warrant appointing
them Nurserymen and Purveyors of Hardy Alpine
and Aquatic Plants to Her Majesty Queen
Alexandra.
The Victoria Medal of Honour in Horticulture.
It is with pleasure that we learn the Royal Horticul-
tural Society has conferred the Victoria Medal of
Honour, instituted to commemorate the glorious
reign of Queen Victoria, on the following : Captain
W. Stackhouse C. Pinwill, a Cornish amateur
who has all his life collected rare plants and has
been most liberal in distributing them gratuitously
far and near ; Mr, Joseph Cheat of Crawley ;
Mr. Whytock, gardener to the Duke of Buccleuch,
Dalkeith ; and Mr. William Cuth-
bertson of Messrs. Dobbie and Co.
of Edinburgh.
Mossy Saxifrages in Winter. —
Now that the flowers of most of
our rock garden plants have
departed, the value of those
possessing beautiful foliage is
fully appreciated. On looking
through the rock garden a few
days ago we were very pleased
with the beautiful green carpets
of Mossy Saxifrages, the fresh,
verdant tint making a charming
contrast to the grey sandstone.
Saxifraga hypnoides and S. mus-
coides, with several of their varie-
ties, were particularly effective.
WallQowers in December. —
For some time now we have
been cutting some fine spikes of
Early Paris and Yellow Phceaix
Wallflowers. The seeds were
sown in April, the seedlings
pricked out when large enough,
and given no more attention
tmtil we started cutting the flowers, which
we hope to continue to do for"^some time yet,
or even the winter through, providing the weather
is not too severe. At such times this favourite
flower is very much appreciated, and we would
advise our readers another season to grow some of
these varieties..
A Late-Flowering Torch Lily.— During the
past few weeks one of the most attractive
features in the outdoor garden at Kew has
been a large bed of Torch Lilies situated near
the Orchid Houses that form part of the
famous T range. The variety is Kniphofia aloides
maxima, and even at the end of November, in
spite of several severe frosts experienced a week
or ten days earlier, the handsome red and yellow
flower-spikes were in splendid condition. In
common with other Torch Lilies, this variety
needs light, sandy soil that has been heavily
manured.
The Royal Horticultural Society's Lawrence
Medal. — We understand that the Lawrence medal,
awarded each year by the Royal Horticultural
Society for the best gold medal group staged at
any of the society's shows during the year, has
been awarded to Sir Everard Hambro, K.C.V.O.,
Hayes Place, Kent (gardener, Mr. Cranfield),
for his magnificent group of alpines in pots. All
those who have had the pleasure of seeing the
alpines from Hayes Place will, we think, agree
that this signal honour is fully deserved.
FRUITS OF PEAR LOUISE BONNE OF JERSEY, AN EXCELLENT
OCTOBER VARIETY. TREES SHOULD BE PLANTED NOW.
Paris in War Time. — From a letter received
on Saturday last from Comte d'Estienne of Messrs.
Vilmorin,-Audrieux et Cie we are able to gain
some idea of the difficulties under which horti-
cultural business is being conducted in Paris at
the present time. Of Messrs. Vilmorin's staff,
over 400 out of 700 members had to join the
Colours of our Allies as soon as war broke out,
and since then many others have also been called
up. So far six members of the staff have been
killed, twenty wounded and several are missing.
Five members of the family, and bearing the
name of Vilmorin, are with the French army,
and one of them, M. Jean Vilmorin, Lieutenant
au 9eme Cuirassiers, was wounded at Peronne
on September 24, and is now a prisoner in Germany.
To fill the places of those growers who are fighting,
their parents, wives and children have come
forward, and are working bravely and without
complaint to keep things going, Paris is now wear-
ing a more cheerful aspect. A great many foreigners
who left the city during the dark days of August
have now returned, and these help to keep
business going. We are sure that all our readers
will join with us in the earnest wish that
fair France and gallant Belgium will soon be cleared
of our enemy, and that substantial reparation
will be made to them for the damage and misery
caused.
Pear Louise Bonne of Jersey.— it is doubiful
whether there is a more reliable Pear of really
good quality for small or large
gardens than the one illustrated
on this page. It is au old
variety, having been raised in
France as long ago as 1780.
The fruits, which are in season
during October, are of medium
size, yellowish green, with a
dull red flush on the exposed
side. The flesh is white, very
juicy and of good flavour. So
far as our experience goes, this
Pear always crops well, no matter
in what form it is grown. We have
it in espalier and cordon form,
and can always rely on the trees
to produce fruits, even when most
others fail. Now that fruit trees
are bemg planted, a few at least
of this Pear should be included.
Quite small trees budded or
grafted on the Quince stock will
bear fruit.
The Kaffir Lily. — Although
this beautiful little South African
plant was sent to this country
as long ago as 1864, it is seldom that we find it
in gardens. It is difficult to understand why,
as at the end of November some plants that we
have in a sunny border under the dwelling-house
were still in full flower. The blossoms are deep
red, and renimd us somewhat of Ixias. When
grown outdoors it needs a warm, surmy position
and rather light, well-drained but rich soil. In
colder districts it needs pot cultivation, with the
pots plmiged to their rims in ashes in a cold frame
throughout late spring, summer and autumn,
these being taken to the greenhouse or conserva-
tory to flower during October and November.
It is knowii bolanically as Schizostylis coccinea,
and is easily propagated by division in the spring.
584
THE GARDEN.
[December 5. 1914-
CORRESPONDENCE.
plans here, and, unless I am a false prophet, he
will find the comparison — as is indeed the case
{Tl:e Editor is not responsible for the opinions] ^-^^^^ j^^^^j flowering plants-to result irameasur-
exprcssed by correspondents.]
Quince Jelly. — The thanks of j-our readers
are due to Mr. E. Moh-neux for gi\-ing, in your
issue for November 7, page 540. the recipe for
Quince jelly. Following faithfully the directions
there given, we have been successful in making
a good quantity of this jelly, which I have no
hesitation in saying is the best preserve I have
ever tasted, a statement that is endorsed bj-
numerous friends who have tried it, This jelly
IS bright red and ven.- attractive, and the flavour
is quite unique. Thanks to Mr. Moh-neux, we
now have a use for fruits that in the past have
been regarded as of little value. — Xkmo.
Autumn - Fruiting Straw -
berries. — Seeing how prolific
the large alpine Strawberry- is
.md the length of time it con-
tinues to fruit, it is surely
wonderful that people so seldon^
grow it. Here in mid-Oxford-
shire we were during the second
week in November having
dishes of the fruit for dessert,
and the fruits nearly all
average an inch in length by
I J inches in circumference.
We have never been without a
supph- of them since June,
when, besides those used in
the house, w^e made jam from
them. The plants are in a
narrow border under a west
wall, and as the birds never
seem to touch the fruits, they
do not require netting. —
-\. La T,
Parochetus communis
Flowering Late. — For some
reason or other this delightful
trailing plant did not flower
with us until mid-October,
though it ought to have done
so in Jul}-. Though seldom
referred to, it is, nevertheless,
strikingly pretty with its clear
pale blue flowers, which arise
out of the axils of the Sham-
rock-like leaves. It makes a
good rockerjf plant, but should
not be planted where it is hot
and dry. Some authorities say
it is not absolutely hardy in
cold districts, so slight pro-
tection should be given ; or portions of the
plant can be potted up and kept in the
cold frame in the winter — an easy matter,
seeing it roots at intervals along its stems, —
C. T., Highgale.
Salvia Fireball. — in your issue of November 14,
page 552, I noted a well-merited tribute to this
plant. We usually fill a large bed in front of
the house with it here, and many passers-by
stop to admire it. Such a brilliant bit of colour
does it make in the landscape that when travelling
on the railway, which runs at a distance of nearly
half a mile in front of the house, I have heard
folks in the train call one another's attention to
the bed. Your correspondent speaks of making
a comparison between plants raised from cuttings
and those raised from seed. We have tried both
ably in favour of seed. — F. Herbert Chapman,
Rye.
Pruning Cordon Fruit Trees. — -\t this busy
season one has not niurh time to indulge in wTiting,
but I cannot let the otherwise excellent article by
" A. B. Essex," in your issue for November 28,
pass without a remark upon one sentence con-
tained therein ; it is, " In the winter these side
shoots or stumps are cut to within two buds of
their bases. . . . This is the waj- fruit
spurs are made." Forty years' experience in
pruning fruit trees leads me to say that, so far from
the above being a fact, it is just the way fruit spurs
are not made, and such close pruning has been
the cause of more failures in fruit-growing than
FUNKIA TARDIFLORA, A PLANTAIN LILY THAT
'TURING NOVEMBER,
anything else ' low of. Bear in mind that this
treatment is . .imended for young and vigorous
trees which are in the course of being formed.
For " summer priming " I should read " summer
pinching." Pinch the j-oung side shoots back to
five leaves instead of four, while the shoots are
young enough to do this easily with the thumb and
finger nails ; this prevents their getting too
strong. Subsequent growths pinch back to two
or three leaves beyond the first pinching, and in
the autumn prune back to four buds. If this is
done, the following season the two upper buds
will produce growth, the two lower buds will form
bloom bud, and this is how fruit spurs are made.
If you prime yoimg trees to two buds, they will
both make wood growth, and the more this treat-
ment is carried on. the more denselv crowded with
growth will \-our tree be. In the case of p^-ramids.
in whieh each branch is (or should be) treated as ,1
cordon, trees hard pruned like this become dens'
thickets, splendid places for blackbirds to build
in, but of little other value. And what thousand^
there are in this country ! Nearly everj- garden
one goes into contains examples, and doubtless thi^
is why a school of advisers has arisen which sav-s.
" Don't prime at all ; let your trees grow
naturally." The general reply to my advice is-
that spurs thus left are unsightly and the spurs get
too far away from the main stem. True ; hut the
time to reduce them is after the lower buds have
become fruit buds. These fat fruit buds are
easih- recognised by any amateur, and when once
well developed, any growth beyond may be cut
off, as each bud has its o-nTi leaves as well as bloom,
and needs nothing to draw up sap. I am, of
course, speaking of Pears
and Apples. In this way
the fruit is kept near the
stem, and the trees are not
crowded with wood. One
word in conclusion : If your
trees are vigorous, go one
better than the advice given
above — pinch to six leaves
instead of five, and prune
to five buds instead of four.
— A. H. Pearson-. Lowdham,
Xotts.
A November - Flowering
Plantain Lily. — Flowering
during October and November,
the Plantain Lih-named Funkia
tardiflora is one of the most
valuable plants of the family.
The Funkias are, as a whole,
more or less partial to a little
shade and moisture. For the
subject of this note, as it blos-
soms during November, shelter
is very desirable, as, though
perfectly hardy plants, several
degrees of frost, which is
naturally more severe in the
open, soon spoils the flowers.
A western aspect is desirable,
to avoid the morning sun
reaching the flowers when there
is a little frost. A sheltered
nook in the rock garden, in
the hardy fernery, along the
front of the shrubbery border,
or planted beneath a bed of
deciduous shrubs are all good.
At Kew one of the best effects
and most successful plantings is
in the Bamboo Garden. This Funkia, in common
with other members of the family, thrives freely in
a rich loamy soil. Increase is readily effected by
division of the clumps in Marcli, which is also tlie
best time for replanting. When first introduced
it was named F. lancifolia var. tardiflora, but the
plant is now more generally regarded as a distinct
species. It has shining dark green leaves 5 inches
to 6 inches long, 2i inches to 3 ' inches broad
in the centre, tapering at both ends. The flowers
are a delicate light purple, freely produced on a
raceme 8 inches to 12 inches in lengtli, sometimes
more, the flowers closely an'anged towards the
top, thirty to forty or more in a dense raceme.
F. tardiflora was first introduced to this country
in 1895, in which year plants were obtained f'>r
Kew from Herr Max Leichtlin, — H. O.
FLOWERS OUTDOORS
December 5, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
.585
Pear Charles Ernest. — I was interested lu
your reference tu this Pear and the beautiful
illustration of a tree in full fruiting condition
on page 566, issue November ar. The Pear is
all that is claimed for it, and should be largely
grown by amateur cultivators. I am growing the
tree as a cordon, but intend to let it develop a
little beyond the true cordon stage, as it is growing
in the open border and not against a wall. Numbers
of trees can be grown in a small space if so treated.
The foliage of this variety is the most distinct
of any that I have seen, being so very glossy,
and the fruits, too, are smooth-skinned and
shiny. — George G.^rner.
Late-Flowering Rockery Plants.— We had
%vell into November live rockery subjects in par-
ticular carrymg a sprinkling of flowers, and even
now (November 19) there are a few open flowers
on some of them. Indeed, one family — the
Oxalis, species rosea — is still covered with buds,
which are no longer able to open fully, even when
the sun shmes on them, owing, of course, to lack
of warmth and its short stay. The other subjects
are Erodium corsicum, Chrysogonum virginianum,
Erigeron mucronatus and Wahlenbergia gentian-
oides. Of these last four I do not know to which
the " palm " should be given for persistent flower-
ing.— C. T., Ken View Garden, Highgatc.
Autumn Scenes in Cumberland. — When I
was receiitly paying a visit of nearly a week to
tlie beautiful region of Borrowdale in Cumberland,
above Derwentwater Lake, nothing was more
exquisite in the valleys and glens than tlie wUd
Rose trees, covered with their luxurious coral
berries, hanging picturesquely in the waysides
<-iver the river Derwent on my way from Lodore
to the hamlet of Roswaithe at the foot of Scawfell.
The autumnal tints were still marvellously effective
on the mountain slopes. Beneath them, in the
near distance, gleamed the waters of the silvery
lake. Above, on Bowfell, Scawfell, Skiddaw and
Silver Craig, glittered through the piure, serenely
silent atmosphere great diadems of snow. On
the garden walls of many of the cottages in Borrow-
dale that venerable, fragrant and richly effective
Rose Gioire de Dijon was still in wondrous bloom.
The lovely Snowberrj' was very conspicuous
everywhere around The Grange and Lodore.
and to me it seemed to attain in those regions
an unusual size. — David R. Williamson.
When to Propagate Carnations. — I am far
from doubting Mr. Weston's contention that
trade growers find January and February the
best time to propagate Perpetual-flowering Car-
nations. I have read all the books which have
appeared on the cultivation of this flower, and
Unow that Mr. Weston is right in saying so. At
the same time, gardeners find it better to propagate
in advance of the trade grower. Two gardeners
have ahready written to The Garden agreeing
with me on this point, and I know several who
used to propagate after the New Year who have
adopted autumn propagation. I met the owner of
a ducal garden at a railway junction not long ago,
and while waiting for a train I was told that the
gardener, who up to the previous year had struck
cuttings late, had for this year also adopted
autumn striking. Flowers had not been so
abundant as was hoped for ; hence the change.
This year, owing to the war, our arrangements
have got out of joint, and the cuttings could not
be got in till much later ; and I have no doubt
the results will be on the whole less satisfactory
than hitherto. — R. P. Broiherston.
SEASONABLE NOTES ON
CHRYSANTHEMUMS.
THE colours of the flowers have never
been richer, nor the latter more re-
fined in every way, than they have this
year. I am not solely referring to the
large flowers grown specially for exhi-
bition, but to those also for grouping
at home and for the supply of cut flowers to place
in vases. .-Uthough the weather has been damp,
foggy and dull, with occasional spells of hot
smishiue, there have not been such bad cases of
dampmg of flowers as in some past years. Many
of the new varieties possess petals with glossy
surfaces, and such resist damp more than those
with dull, or what may be termed rough, sur-
faces. The value of
Late-Flowering Varieties is very great, and
amateur cultivators would be acting wisely
if they grew more of them in future years
and placed their orders for cuttings for next
year's plants as soon as possible. Some cul-
tivators have a mistaken idea that the plants
may be propagated late in spring, and so
secure late flowers of the best quality. Smaller
plants bearing nice flowers may be so grown
if the shoots are not stopped too late
in the summer ; but the finest specimens
are grown when the cuttmgs are propagated
early. All sucker shoots now appearing on such
varieties as Embleme Poitevine (yellow), A. J.
Balfour (pink), Baldock's Crimson (scarlet red),
Mme. R. Oberthur (white), Nagoya (deep golden
yellow) and Tuxedo (orange bronze) should be
retained and uiserted as cuttings before they get
too much drawn up. Thus, a nice batch of
yomig plants will be available instead of
spoiled shoots in January-.
Composts for Cuttings. — Composts for cuttings
of all varieties should be very carefully prepared.
The soil so used remains around the roots through-
out the season, and it must not only be of a
character to induce the free formation of roots,
but act as a storehouse for foods given later on.
Quite fibreless soils are unsuitable. I like to sift
out the fine soil and replace it with good, sweet
leaf-soil, retainmg the most fibrous portion of
the loam only ; then add sufficient washed and
dried coarse sand to make all porous. Manure
at this stage is not needed. The turf should
be selected now ; it must be that in which
all grasses and their roots have perished. Older
turf than this should not be used if it can
be avoided.
Chrysanthemum Roots. — Directj-i |the flowers
have faded or been cut, the stem>[, ...ji^st be cut
down to withm a few inches of the soil ; quite
low down if suckers are plentiful. Then place the
pots in an open position in a greenhouse or frame,
so that air and the maximum amomit of light will
reach them. If cuttings are plentiful and in a
number of pots, discard some pots to make
room for others, and thin out the weaker of
the remaining cuttings. This means sturdmess.
Where cuttings are scarce, remove a little of the
surface soil and replace it with a sandy mixture,
place the pots in a warmer house and keep the
soil moist. In nearly every case cuttings are
induced to grow. With the Editor's permission,
in an early issue I will give a list of new
varieties suitable for amateurs to grow for
exhibition and home use. .\voN.
POTASH MANURES.
HOW TO SUPPLEMENT SUPPLIES.
AT one time, not many years ago, gar-
deners relied almost entirely upon
natinal manures to mamtain the
i fertility of their gardens ; but
*■ with the advent of the mot^ir th'-
horse is fast disappearing, and
natural manures are in some districts practicall\-
miobtainable. In consequence of this shortage
chemical manures are being used more and more
extensively year by year. Ready-made fertilisers
are supplied by the trade, but some of these are
very expensive, and where the gardener has tu
study economy he prefers to buy the ingredients
and make his own mixtures.
No fertiliser is complete without potash, and
we have been accustomed to rely upon kainit
and sulphate of potash for this. Both of these
salts have been obtained from Germany. The
German potash deposits near Strassfurt yield a
vast supply of kainit, from which sulphate of
potash is obtained. Practically all the potash
in use for manurial purposes comes from Germany.
The writer is not in possession of the latest figures
as to the annual yield of these German mines,
but in the year 1900 i,r58,ooo tons of potash
salts were used for agricultural and horticultural
purposes. It will be seen, therefore, that as \ve
rely almost entirely upon Germany for our potash
supply, we are faced with the prospect of a potash
famine for this year.
There is, however, one source of supply open
to many gardeners, and that is by the careful use
of wood-ashes. In the Journal of the Board of
AgrJciflture for November, Dr. E. J. Russell
contr;''mtes a very useful and timely article on
wood-ashes as a source of potash. Experiments
Live been carried out at Rothamsted, and
wood-ashes have been proved to be almost equal
to kamit. Dr. Russell points out, however, that
wood-ashes should not be exposed to rain before
digging into the ground. Two samples were
analysed both before and after exposure to a
slight shower, with the following result :
Percentage of Potii--. Succession plants m heated pits will benefit
by a dressmg of artificial manure, which mav
be lightly pricked into the surface soil previous
to^watermg the plants with clear soft water-
50 at night is quite high enough for these plants'
Early Potted Bulbs will now be well furnished
with roots, and may be moved into heat as it
becomes necessary ; but this must not be attempted
until the plants have made some top growth
as well as plenty of roots, Maintam a moist
atmosphere and avoid a high temperature until
the plants are well on the move.
The Flower Garden.
Lawns.— Where the lawn is brown and patchy
a dressmg of basic slag should be applied now
As this IS one of the least soluble manures it
requires to be applied in the early winter m order
nJ I "'!k"'' ^"'"'^^ '^^'"g the following summer
tiouMbTllle^cZr' '''' """' ^"^-^'^'^ --P'^
The Rock Garden.— Many of the subjects will
.w^ f^." surface-dressing as a protection from
Sharp frost or heavy and contmual rain The
dressmg may be placed so as to cast off the heavv
ram as well as protect the roots from frost. The
plants must be kept quite free from fallen leaves
which have a chokmg effect on their constitution
ests'' '^^ fo'^niing a shelter for slugs and other
Sweet Peas that are required for planting in
March must be sown in small pots at once Place
the pots in a cold brick pit and keep a sharp look-
out for mice which may do a great deal of damage
in a little time. About three seeds should be
paced m a 4-inch pot. The soil may consist
of three parts sandy loam and one part leaf-soil
Crock the pots carefully. The pit mav be kept
closed for a time, but, as suon as the- young plants
appear, ventilation should be freely given. These
late sown plants are a useful addition to those
sown in October.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Fig Trees on Walls. — Some protection must
be provided for these trees before sharp frost
sets in. The branches should be liberated from
the wall and all worthless shoots remo\-ed. after
which the remamder ought to be carefully tied
together and a covering of some dry material
placed over them. This should b? allowed to
remaui while sharp frost contmues, but no
great quantity of covering should be left on
the trees after the frost is over, or the first
crop of fruit will suffer in consequence. The
final pruning of the trees should not take place
until the branches are tied up in March.
The Kitchen Garden.
Celery.— The latest batch of Cclerv must
receive the final earthing-up at once, but it is
necessary to exercise a great deal of care to keep
the plants quite free from soil m the centre, or
many of them will be deformed and of little value
for other than cooking purposes. If sharp frost
sets in, the beds should receive some protection
Either clean straw or dry Bracken will do.
CauliHower Plants in Pits.— These plants
ought to be potted into 4-inch pots with as little
delay as possible. The earliest batch will now
be rooting freely, and must be kept in a well-
ventilated pit. Do not allow the plants to become
stmited for want of a little manure-water. The
arm of the cultivator should be to keep them as
stocky and short-jointed as possible.
French Beans in Pots.— Water freely with
liquid manure and admit fresh air whene\-er the
external conditions permit.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. Jobs Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Onions. — On wet days opportmiity should „„
taken to turn over the stock of Onions, as, no matter
how carefully they have been harvested and
stored, there is sure to be a few damping. If
possible, give them a little more floor space.
Cabbage.— During the remarkably open weather
experienced in November, weeds have grown
alarmingly, and every encouragement ought to
be given to the autumn-planted Cabbages by
running the hoe between the rows to stir up the
soil. This can only be done when the weather
is fairly dry. No attempt must be made to
hasten the growth at this time by the use of
fertilisers. These should only be applied when
growth commences in the early part of the year.
Parsley.— So far there has "been no difficulty
in obtaining supplies from the open borders,
and where this has not been checked by severe
frosts it will be advisable to have it protected
in some way. A simple method is to secure
some Ash suckers and bend these over the rows
hoop fashion at intervals, and over these ordinary
sacks or garden mats can be laid on the approach
of frost or snow. This method I have found to
be very effective. Plants that are growing in
frames should be given abimdance of "air. except
dtrring very severe weather.
Tomatoes .^The plants intended for an early
spring supply of fruit ought now to receive their
filial pottmg. In domg so, just use sufficient
soil to cover the ball, leavmg room for top-dressing
from time to time. These plants should occupy
a position near the glass in a temperature not
exceeding 55°. Water must be gi%'en with
caution ; indeed, if the soil was moderately
moist when potting, no water will be required for a
time.
The Flower Garden.
Planting. — The planting of all trees and shrubs
should be proceeded with on all favourable occa-
sions, especially when large specimens are to be
transplanted. The transplantmg of Hollies and
Bamboos, however, must be deferred till at least
the month of May, and in some districts even as
late as Tune.
Roses. — Where a large niunber of wall and
pillar Roses are grown, the work of cutting out
some of the old shoots may be proceeded with.
This will save time during the busy spring season.
In the case of Crimson Ramblers it will be advisable-
to leave rather more shoots than are required to-
furnish the pillar, as, owing to the softness of the-
wood, many may yet be destroyed by frost.
Planting must also be proceeded Viiih when
%veather conditions permit. Although it is difficult
to get the soil sufficiently dry at this season,,
planks can be used to stand on, which will lessen
the effect of binding the soil.
Dahlia Tubers. — On the approach of severe
weather these tubers should be carefully examined,,
and if the slightest sign of damping is seen, an
additional covering ought to be given. r
find there is nothing better for keepmg the tubers-
sound than some sifted soil or sand w-orked in among;
them.
Plants Under Glass.
Gardenias. — ^To prolong the flowering season
of this fine stove plant, a batch of cuttings inserted
now should come into bloom early next autumn.
Place these cuttings in a propagating-case where
a good bottom-heat can be kept up. Older
plants must not be subjected to an excessive
dry heat, which encourages mealy bug, an insect
that is particularly partial to Gardenias.
Clivias. — A few plants that have been standing
in rather cool quarters may now be placed in a
warm house, where they will soon throw up their
flower-spikes. These will be especially welcome
about the New Year as a change from Chr\--
santhemums. To increase the stock, a few- of
the older plants should be broken up ; but as
the roots will be found to he matted together,
the work of dividing %vill be no easy task.
Place the yoimg plants in a heated hoiise and
water sparingly for a time.
Roses. — A batch of pot Roses should now be
prepared for forcing, afterwards standing them
in a light, air\- house and bringing them on
very gradually. Indeed, unless the weather is
unusually cold, little or no fire-heat wUl be required
for a time. If the plants have not already been
pruned as previously advised, this must be done
before placing them inside. The drainage should
be examined and the pots thoroughly washed.
All these details tend to a healthy growth.
Carnations. — -To keep up a supply of blooms
at this season of the year is no easy task, and, to
avoid damping of the blooms, a little more artificial
heat ought to be given, together with careful
ventilation. To encourage the growth of strong
stems, it will be necessary to reduce the flower-luids
to one on each stem.
Lily of the Valley. — -To have a supply of flowers
for Christmas from retarded crowns, the forcing
must commence at once. On no account place
them in excessive heat at the start ; rather should
the forcing be gentle until the growth is fairh"
well advanced. For furnishing purposes the
aim should be to have well-developed foliage,
which will the better show the flowers to advantage.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Morello Cherries. — The nailing and training of
these Cherries is a long and tedious job. and ni>
opportunity must be lost in pushing this work
forward when the weatheris at all favourable. Some
of the older trees should be completely overhauled
by cutting away old and useless shoots, retaining
only those that are yoimg and fruitful. WTien the
work of training is completed, some turfy loam
and well-rotted manure ought to be lightly forked
in roimd the tree, or, if this is not possible, a
top-dressing of the same material will answer
the purpose as well.
Fruit Under Glass.
Peaches. — The forcing of permanently planted
Peaches is a task that requires to be very carefully
performed, especially in the earlier stages of
growth. Trees that have been forced for a numbei
of years may safely be started now. The house
should be closed down, and, unless the weather
is more severe, no fire-heat ought to be given for
at least a fortnight ; indeed, a high temperature
should at all times be avoided. If the border
is at all dry, only tepid water ought to be given ;
but if the border was attended to in the autumn,
no water should be required.
John Highg.\te.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopeiowi Gardens. South Quecnsferry, S.B.
December 5, 1914]
THE GARDEN.
591
CULTIVATION AND COL-
LECTION OF MEDICINAL
PLANTS IN ENGLAND.
[The following has been rcccnlly publisheii as
Leaflet No. 288 by the Board of Agriculture]
(Continued from page 583.)
HENBANE (HYOSCVAMUS NIGER, L.).
Prospects. — This biennial is cultivated in tliis
country for extract making. There is a limited
demand for this purpose, and the established drug
farms will probably be able to meet it. The
official Henbane leaves of the British Pharma-
copoeia are the leaves and flowering tops of second
year plants of biennial Henbane, but the dry
commercial leaves imported from Germany and
Russia are derived from the mid annual. The
plant might be grown next year to make good any
shortage, if good germinable seed can be obtained.
There mil be a demand for dry lea\-e5 at enhanced
prices next year.
The normal price of the Continental drug plant
is +os. to 45s. per cwt. The English-gro^vn plant
is ordinarily worth 3s. to 6s. per lb.
Cultivation. — Henbane grows in similar situa-
tions to Belladonna, and its cultivation is much
the same. The seeds, ^however, are prone to lie
dormant, and the crop is trick\' and uncertain,
sometimes dying in patches. Commercial Henbane
seed is often kiln-dried and useless for sowing.
Tlie annual variety is smaller and does not branch
50 freely as the biennial plant, so that it may be
sown in rows 18 inches apart, and the biennial
2 feet to 2i feet. The leaves (flowering tops) are
gathered when the plants are in flower (biennial,
June or July; annual, August). The root is not
used in medicine. The fresh leaves lose 80 per cent.
of their weight on drying.
" EGYPTIAN HENBANE " (DATURA METEL, L.).
Tills plant is a valuable source of the mydriatic
alkaloids hyoscine, hyoscyamine and atropine. It
may perhaps be grown in the same way as Thorn
Apple.
OPinM POPPY (PAPAVER SOMNIFERUM, L.).
Prospects. — The white variety of the Opium
Poppy is still grown in se\-eral parts of the country,
notably Lincolnshire, for the sake of its capsular
fruits. The crop is always a precarious one, but
tliere is a steady market for Poppy heads. Belgium
usually suppUes a proportion of the Poppy heads
used in this country, but not sufficient for
the loss of her crop to cause serious shortage
next year. The price paid for Poppy heads
is I2S. to 15s. per 1,000 for large size, and 8s.
to los. for medium.
Cultivation. — Poppies prefer rich, moist soil
with plenty of sun, and the usual practice is f o take
a crop after Wheat, Oats or Barley. The land is
manured and ploughed in autumn to ensure a
fine tilth in spring. Sowing is done at the end of
March or in April, according to weather, allowing
lib. of seed per acre and drilling in rows a foot
apart. The whitest seeds are preferred. Plants
which are too forward are liable to be cut down by
late frosts, while, if seed is sown too late, the
seedlings may become dwarfed if dry weather
sets in before they become well established. A
light roller is sufficient to ensure the seeds being
covered.
When the plants are 3 inches or 4 inches
high they are cut with a hoe into clumps
about 6 inches to 9 inches apart, and are
afterwards " singled " by women or children,
leaving a solitary strong plant from each group.
Weeding is necessary. A dressing of soot or
fertiliser may be given if support appears to be
needed.
Poppy heads of pale colour are most desired,
but a week's rain or even a few nights' heavy
dew may spoil the colour of the ripening fruits.
High winds and heavy rains are dreaded, as
the plants become top-heavy. The capsules
are harvested by women or children about
September ; they are broken oft' and placed
in baskets, and are transferred to sacks to
be conveyed to tlie drying floor. The yield is
very variable. The drying floor is a boarded
floor in a freely ventilated warehouse, and on
it a thin layer of capsules is turned each day
by shuffling the feet along the floor. The capsules
usually take a fortnight to dry.
THORN APPLE (DATURA STRAMONIUM, L.).
Prospects. — The Thorn Apple is not grown on
a commercial scale in this country. Tlie principal
use of the drug is as an ingredient in burning
powders for asthma, considerable quantities of the
wild leaves being imported from Germany and
Hungary. The normal price of foreign Stramonium
leaves is about 40s. per cwt., but 80s. has been
asked since the outbreak of war. The seed is
also a commercial article, but demand is very
limited. The plant is an annual and easily
groun. The dry leaves wjuld lind a ready
market next year.
Cultivation. — Tile seeds (lolb. to 151b. per
acre) arc drilled in rows 2 feet apart. The
plants grow well in sunny situations. The
crop is cut with the sickle when in flower
in late summer. The leaves are stripped oft'
and dried as quickly as possible, usually by
artificial heat. About thirty-four parts of dry
leaves are produced from 100 parts of fresli
leaves. The thorny capsules are gathered from
plants allowed to stand, when full grown but
j still shghtly green. They split and shed their
seed on drying.
! Datura Tatula, L. — A closely allied species with
I purple flowers (not white as in D. Stramonium) is
I occasionally used in medicine in place of D.
j Stramonium.
I VALERIAN (VALERIANA OFFICINALIS, L.).
Prospects. — Valerian is common in England in
I moist situations. Most of the drug plant of com-
I merce consists of rhizomes from plants grown in
i Derbyshire, or imported from Holland, Germany
' and France. The foreign root was selling in
January at 30s. per cwt., Enghsh being worth
j IS. to IS. 3d. per lb., about four times that price.
'Verv little 'Valerian is now cultivated in this
country, and great scarcity already exists .
Abnormal prices will be paid for some time to
come.
{To be continued.)
EARLY FLOWERING CHRYSANTHEMUMS.
The sub-committee of the floral committee of the Royal Horticultural Society met at Wisley on
September 25 and October 16 and made the following recommendations for awards, which were
confirmed by the floral committee and approved by the President and Council on October 20 :
Number.^.
165, 501
39, 138, 529
497
31, 93, 296, 536 .
56
329, 483
496
250, 472
162
75, 300, 485
274, 513
527
8«, 252, 517
68, 538
19, 106, 309. 444
52, 208
102
127, 432
74, 158
65, 537
82, 427
95, 160, 497, 525
Name of VaYiely.
Ahulrante
Champ (I'Or
Evelyn
F^e Parisienne ....
*F. Wilson
J. Bannister
Jimmie
Lorraine
Martin Peed
tJMra. J. Fieldiug . . .
tGoacher's Terra Cotta
Mabel Roberts ....
ill's. W. Sydenham
Pluie d'Argent ....
Roi des Blancs
E. Pemberton
Stella
Tonkin
Caledonia
Abercorn Beauty . . .
Sent bu
.Tones, AVell.s
Ban, Jones. %Vells
Wells and Co
Barr, Bobbie, Jones, Wells
Simpson
Jones, Wells
Wells
Jones, Wells
Jones
Debbie, Jones. Wells ....
Jones, Wells
Wells
Debbie, Jones, Wells . . . .
R. Veitch, Wells
Bair, Debbie, Jones, W'ells
BaiT, Jones
Debbie
Debbie, Wells
Debbie, Jenes
Debbie, Wells
Results in precious year. Award now
Date. Sender. Award. recommended.
'So previous award A.M
15-9-10 Debbie.
A.M.
Previous aw'rd
ceniirmed
Bronze Goacher ... E. Veitch, Wells
Carrie Debbie, .tenes, Wells and
Co., Wells
71, 181, 514 Crimson Polly Debbie, Jenes, Wells
24, 66. 132 Diana Barr, Debbie. Jenes
62, 344
23, 81, 343, 482 . .
35, 105, 313, 434
36, 87, 280, 651 .
28, 85, 512
100, 287, 474 ... .
22, 276, 433
13, 84, 292, 455 . .
108, 471
116, 560
504
163
20, 259, 422 .
Ill, 337 . . . .
224
114
246
469
199
9, 272, 428 . .
120, 241
406
Geerge Bowness . .
Harrie
Leslie
Mme. Marie Massfi
Market White , . .
Nina Blick
Perle Chatillouaise . ,
Pelly
Ethel
Wells' Scarlet
A. Barnhara
Debbie, Jenes
Barr, Debbie, Jones, Wells
Barr, Debbie, Jones, Wells
Barr, Debbie, Jones, Wells
Barr, Debbie, Wells
Debbie, Jenes, Wells ....
Barr, Jenes, "Wells
Barr, Debbie, Jones. Wells
Bobbie, Wells
Bobbie, Wells
Wells
24-10-11
23-9-02
10-9-10
29-9-10
12-9-05
12-9-05
14-9-09
9-8-98
29-9-10
15-9-10
29-9-10
29-9-10
H-9-06
25-10-10
Wells ..
Well- ..
Wells ..
Debbie.
Wells
Wells . .
Wells ..
Wells ..
Hayweod
Debbie .
Debbie .
Debbie .
Bobbie .
Wells
Vfells
Xe previous award
Highly
commended
Brighton
Crimson Diana . . .
Ernest Baltet . . .
t Flambeau
JFleuve Rouge . . .
Gascoigne t
Mme. Dreuard . .
May
Minnie Carpenter
Miss B. Miller . . . .
Nellie Riding
Jenes
Debbie, Jenes. Wells
Debbiej Jones
Jones
Dobbie
Jones
Wells and Co
Jenes
Barr, Jones, Wells . . .
Bobbie. Jenes
Wells
* Raised by F. Wilson (etlier raisers and introducers uot stated).
Svuenvmous.
X Syuouymous.
592
THE GARDEN.
[December 5, 1914
ANSWERS
TO CORRESPONDENTS.
TREES AND SHRUBS.
.i^^yi"?? LARGE BOX PLANTS (C. E. M.).— The
NATIONAL DIPLOMA
HORTICULTURE.
r r ""*'"*- "v/A rut\ni.o \,\J. £i. iltL.j. — lue
box plants which you propose to move to fill up your
liedge ought to transplant quite well, providing ordinary
lare is exercised m their removal. If you are" not in a
liurry to fill the gap, it would be advisable to leave the
work until April : then remove the plants with as much
HOil attached to the roots as possible. Keep the plants
weu watered next year, and give the roots a sm-face-
■ Iressmg of lea\es and manure in the event of dry weather
being experienced.
VALUE OF AHAUCARIA WOOD (id/s. F. E. R.).— i
ihe timber of Araucaria imbrieata (Monkey Puzzle)
la useful m Its native country, but it has no special com- !
raercial value here on account of the limited supply.
iTees of this description are often sold at the price of
firewood. At the most It is doubtful whether such a tree i
would realise more than sixpence a cubic foot, for, in
addition to there being no regular supply of the timber, i
xne wood from ornamental trees is usually very knotty
lou could have it cut up for home use, for it would do j
lor general indoor fluishing of houses or outhouses, fencing I
or other uses for which ordinary deal is employed. It '
Jb probable that if the tree were grown for timber under
syivicultural conditions in this countrv, some considerable
use would Ix found for the timber. "
KITCHEN GARDEN.
TO PLANT A SMALL VEGETABLE GARDEN IB. A.).—
^ou do uot say what soil ..i laiui it i^ wi,idi vou are
I'omg to make into a vegeialil. -smh-h. wlieiluT the soil
h?a^ or light, shallow or deep, whether it has been
cultivated before or not. Had you given us a few par-
ticulars such as these, we could possibly have rendered
you a better service. After forming vour walks, trench
the ground at least 2i feet deep, and if there are any
coarse weeds or grass on the surface, bury it in the bottom
of the trench. Apply at least half a cartload of rotted
larmyard manure to each rod or perch of land, mixiu"
It with the soil as trenching proceeds. Plant bush or
pyramid Apple and Pear trees on either side of the walks
ail round the garden, ai; distances apart of 10 feet and
4 leet away from the walks. Plant a Currant and a Goose-
nerry bush between the trees. Border No. 1 plant with
•■jtrawberries and Raspberries. Border No. 2 plant with
Loganberries. Borders No. 3 and 4 devote to early crops
ot Potatoes, Cabbages, Peas, Lettuce, Cauliflower and
turnips. Quarter No. 1 devote to Potatoes. Quarter
Jvo. _ devote to later Peas, Cauliflower, Carrots, Parsnips,
l^eetroot Celery, Onions, Brussels Sprouts, Broccoli
and winter greens generally. Plant Cabbage, winter
J.ettuee, and autumu-sowu Onions now.' Seakale
uoot cuttings) can also be planted now. Now is a "ood
time to plant all the fruit trees. H you will let us know
now many trees of each sort you propose to buv, we will
give you the names of the best - nurserymen cannot afford to devote
the necessary time to it. We think it is a
subject that the scientific and research establish-
ments now subsidised by Government or other
■public bodies might profitably take up.
A GOOD SWEET CHERRY.
One so often hears complaints that Cherries
do not crop well in gardens when grown as bush
or half-standard trees. L'ndoubtedly a wall is
desirable for most of the choicer kinds, but the
variety illustrated herewith, and named Kentish
Bigarreau or Amber Heart, will do well in most
gardens grown in either of the forms named.
It is a very old variety, with fruits of medium size,
pale yellow in colour, with red on the exposed side.
The flesh is white, juicy and sweet, and tl\e fruits
are in season during July. Fkuit-grower.
D tlie wealth of flowermg subjects for
the hardy flower border, the claims
of foliage plants are apt to be over-
looked. I purpose, therefore, t^
briefly draw attention to a few of
these whose beauty lies in their
variegation. I begin with Iris Pseudacorus fol.
var., the variegated Bastard Iris. In Scotland
this beautifully variegated Iris begins to show
up in the beginning of May and keeps good for six
weeks or two months, after which it begins to
lose its brightness. .A,bout the afore-mentioned
date Funkia undulata fol. var., the variegated
Wavy Funkia, unfolds its beauty, both in colour
and form. The variegation of both the foregoing
is of a pale primrose shade. Symphytum officinale
luteo-marginata, being a Comfrey, may be regarded
by some as being rather coarse, but
its golden-margined foliage justifies.
its inclusion in any collection. It
should be planted near the front of
the border, and the flower-stems
ought to be cut over as soon as they
begin to appear.
In Hemerocallis Kwanso \"ar. we
have a plant with gracefully recurv-.
ing foliage, and with a lovely silver
\-ariegation suggestive of a small
specimen of Pandanus Veitchii, but
as easily grown as any of the other
Day Lilies. Phlox Comtesse de Jarnac,
being of more recent introduction
than any of the preceding, is on that
account better known, but it well
deserves the popularity it enjoys.
Planted in groups of threes or fives,
it has a very telling effect.
Scrophularia nodosa var., the varie-
gated Murrain Grass, was a popular
bedding plant in the sixties and
seventies of last century, but, like
many of its contemporaries, it has
long ago been relegated to the limbo-
of forgetfulness. Its merits as a silver-
variegated plant, however, entitle it
to a place in the hardy border, whicli
it always enjoys here. The flower-
stems should be pinched out as soon as
they begin to push. The variegated
Balm, Melissa oflicinalis var., is well worth atten-
tion, and can be either allowed to develop or be
pinched back and used for the front lines ; it
shows up best in poor soil. Of the dwarfer varie-
gated plants I will only indicate a few. Dactylis
glomerata var., the variegated Cocksfoot Grass,
is another of the old popular bedders and has
never been quite discarded ; its form and colour
both entitle it to a place in the hardy border.
.Arabis albida var. is very well known and is
frequently used for edging walks. It is of
A. lucida var. I desire to speak, howe\"er. witi\
its rosettes of golden-variegated shiny foliage
hugging the ground ; truly a gem of the finest
quality. Some people have difficulty in getting
this plant to thrive, but its culture is simple.
Prepare the ground well prior to planting, working
in some good flaky leaf-mould ; plant deeply,
mo\"e seldom, but prick round the plants each
spring with the hand fork, and. slightly lifting
tile fi.iliage, top-dress with a little fresh Itjam
December 12, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
597
and flaky leaf-mould ; pick off the flowers as Alfred Colomb and Captain Hayward. — The
soon as they begin to appear. Thymus citriodorus latter is of a rather tliui nature ; 'jpcu^ well here
argenteus, the silver-\-ariegated Lemou Thyme, ' even in cool, damp weather
is suitable for front lines ; moreover, it is as accept-
able to the cook as is the type. The variegated
form of London Pride (Saxifraga urabrosa) is
verv attractive, but requires to be selected from
time to time, as it inclines to revert to the type.
ilidlothian. Cu.^ri.ks Comfort.
ROSES IN YORKSHIRE.
(Continued from page 58S.)
IN continuance of the vigorous red varieties
I come to
Gearge Dickson. — Here
is a Rose that takes one
by storm. I shall not
easily forget the impression
I received when first I saw it
staged in masses of gorgeous _ ,.,
blooms by the raisers (Messrs.
Alex. Dickson and Sons). I
returned again and again during
the afternoon to examine this
fine Rose and to feast my eye^
on its lovely colour. It was
without doubt the magnet of the
show, and before 1 left I had
both ordered the plant for the
autumn and managed to possess
myself of a spare bloom, which,
by the way, lasted considerably
more than a week in water.
It is truly described as the
finest dark red Rose in cultiva-
tion, with its glistening blackish
crimson petals of great substance.
It is an acquisition to any
garden, and now available at
a more popular price, which is
hiiuud to add large numbers to
its many admirers. With me
this Rose has grown well, and
produced blooms which, if few
in number, have been Ai in
quality. Perhaps its one fault
is a tendency to hang its head.
The blooms are heavy, and the
stems not quite as firm and
vigorous as one would like ; but,
apart from H. V. Machin (at
present beyond my pocket), I
have seen nothing to rival it,
and I am quite satisfied with
the results in the climate of my
garden.
George C. Waud also does
well here, and is specially
attractive because of its unique colour, almost
a \'ermilion, which has the added charm of
being able to endure the sun. I have yet to
see a bloom that has lost its colour on the tree.
It is now threatened with rivalry' by Geoffrey
Henslow, a variety which is obviously a more
vigorous grower, but one with which I ha\-e had
as yet very little experience. I have p'airted
more of it this autumn. Other reds that are
reliable in this district, but which I have only
space to name, are
General Macarthur, with me specially good in
the autumn.
Edward Mawley. — Excellent, erect habit of
growth.
The varieties of pink and sahnon colours are so
numerous that it is a work of art to select those
that one can usefully grow in a garden which,
though somewhat limited in size, is required to
contain the best varieties of all colours. In the
pure shades of china pink I give pride of place to
Mrs. George Shawyer. — Its habit of growth
is free, it is very shapely in the bush, while it
produces fine blooms carried on long, stout stems.
Another Rose of this lovely soft shade of pink is
Berthe Gaulis. — Unfortunately, it is very
moderate in growth here, and while producing
FIXE PLANT
CEPHALUS.
OF THE GLOBE THISTLE, ECHINOPS SPH.ERO
THE FLOWER-HEADS ARE STEELY BLUE.
perfect blooms, seems miable to support them.
Possibly Dean Hole's — or is it Mr. Mawley's ? —
theory of the mowing-machine over the amateur's
beds at pruning-time might help me with, this
variety.
Mrs. John Laing is, of course, a good doer
here, and gives numbers of blooms, but one has
to make up one's mind early whether three or
four exhibition Roses or a decorative bush is
required. Quality and quantity are foreign to
this Rose. I prefer the quantity, as there are
others for exhibition if wanted in this colour.
Lady Ashtown. — Another beautiful pink that
is exceedingly floriferous and a decided acquisition
to the garden. I have grown it well enough to
use forexhibitioM purposes with success, but believe
its vocation is mainly a decorative garden Rose.
Caroline Testout.— .A. very vigorous Rose, and
even here eontnuially in flower. It comes un-
scathed tlirough severe frost and biting winds
that play havoc with bushes all around it. For
this reason alone every exposed garden should
contain it.
Baroness Rothschild is also a very robust
Rose, giving perfect blooms of satiny pink and of
fine cupped form. The disappointment comes
when we are seeking fragrance, a quality which,
as every rosarian knows, it is guiltless of.
Mme. Abel Chatenay. — One of the indis-
pensable varieties with me. The three or four
plants I have of this variety have
given me literally scores of blooms,
all borne on long stems, so that
they can be cut without the
sacrifice of buds. It is a pity it is
not a more shapely grower, as it is
undoubtedly reliable in every
other direction and one we cannot
do without.
The Lyon. — It seems invidious
and almost unnecessary to write
about this variety, with its unique
colour of shrimp pink, shaded
chrome yellow. In spite of its un-
gainly growth and its extreme
variableness in colour, it is ex-
cellent. I have nicknamed it
Chameleon, but from it I have
cut certainly the largest, and
some of them the finest, blooms in
my garden. Even on November 22
I managed to find quite a respect-
able bloom fit for the vase. Out
of some seventy varieties I am
growing at present, only five have
shown any sign of mildew.
Unfortunately, The Lyon is one
of them, although perhaps the
least affected of the lot. The
worst offender in this respect is
Killarney, which I have this
year expelled from the garden.
In my humble opinion it is
not worth its room, as it remains
mildew ridden against all treat-
ment.
Prince de Bulgaria. — Pale
flesh, with rosy salmon centre and
attractive shell-shaped petals,
this is undoubtedly not only a
robust variety, but may be safely-
classed among town Roses. It
has flowered with me
continually and right on into late
autumn.
RoHiidhay, near Leeds. E. W.\ters.
(To be conlimied.)
THE GLOBE THISTLES.
These interesting hardy plants, known to botanists
as Echinops, ate particularly valuable for grouping
in the mixed border, where their globiUar flower-
heads of steely blue add a touch of colour such as
we get from few other kinds. They are not at
all difficult to grow, flourishing in ordmary garden
soil that is well drained and manured. Those
who are planting borders now should certainly
find room for one or two groups of these Globe
Thistles. The best kinds are E. ruthenicus. E.
sphcerocephalus, E. Ritro and E. banaticus. B.
598
THE GARDEN.
[December 12, 1914.
A U B R i ET IAS I N T H E
SPRING GARDEN .
T
I HOSE who make careful use of the
best spring flo-wers have been re-
joicing in some recent improve-
ments in the .\ubrietia. Among
these, the ni.st valuable of those
now well known is the beautiful
variety Lavender, of good size, fully bloomed
and of true Aubrietia colour. In the progress
of variation of a garden plant, growers are apt
to overlook the best purpose or intention. The
lures of size, novelty and variety are often illusive ;
they attract and lead into
blind paths. The thing to look
for is the piurest beauty of
which the plant is capable. In
the matter of coloiuring in the
Aubrietia the very finest quality
may often be picked out in a
batch of seedlings of the type
A. graeca. It is a clear, pure
lavender purple rather light than
deep in tone. We are grateful
for the fine deep - coloured
variety Dr. Mules, but to the
artist-gardener it is not a plant
to use by itself in large quantity.
Its value is best shown when a
few plants are grouped with
a larger niunber of a good form
'■f the more typical colouring.
Of the heavy reddish colour-
ings, and even the deep purples
inclining to reddish, as far as
my own feeling and experience
are concerned, they are better
avoided altogether. The onh'
colourings with anything ap-
proaching a reddish tint that
seem to me desirable are the
very beautiful palest pink Moer-
heimii, of Dutch origin, and a
slightly darker one, brought out,
I think, by Messrs. Barr,
called Bridesmaid. Both are
extremely pretty plants and
go well together. For the present
the pure, rather light-coloured
kinds resembling the fine
Lavender would seem to be the
best. It was a pleasure last
spring to receive from Jlr. R.
Wallace of Colchester a very
beautiful flower of the Lavender
type, but better, in that it had
not so much of the pale eye
that in Lavender is rather too
conspicuous. The absence of the
white eye makes the flower much
more effective in the mass. I am of npinidn
that the size of Aubrietia bloom should not be
fiu-ther increased. Aubrietia the size of Rocket
or Honesty would be a disquieting anomaly.
It is not in the nature of the plant, a true alpine,
to have large flowers. The mass of small b'.ooms
of good form and pure colouring is the true character
of the plant and the source of its charm and
attractiveness. These charming spring flowers
deserve to be more widely grown, both in the
rock garden and the border, than they are at
present. Their cultivation is not difficult, and they
are ideal for the amateur. G. Jekvll.
THE MOST BEAUTIFUL
CLEMATISES.
o
note as to the time they flower and the colouring.
.All thrive best in a cool soil, such as loam with
some lime in it, and in the case of Clematis
Jackmanii, C. lanuginosa and their varieties
E of the most beautiful families of the bases of the plants should be in such a
shrubby and climbing plants is the ; position that the full rays of the sun do not
Clematis. Those who have only a ; strike directly upon them during the hottest
slight acquaintance with flowers part of the day.
know the Traveller's Joy (Clematis
\'italba), the misty seed-pods which
jive a weird effect to the hedgerow in autumn and
THE SPECIES OF CLEMATIS.
The following are a few of the more beautiful
winter. It rambles over everything within its reach, of the species or wild types: C. alpina, which
mingling its silvery colour with the dense glossy
green of the Ivy. It is not of the wild Clematis
one wishes to write, but the following question
flowers in April and May, is a Clematis from
Northern Europe, and bears lilac or mauve
blooms in abundance ; there are varieties with
white and pink flowers respec-
tively. C. campaniflora, a Portu-
guese Clematis, with white,
mauve-tinted flowers barely one
inch across, is of strong growth
and suitable for the wild
garden ; the flowering period is
from July onwards. C. Flam-
mula is ' well Icnown ; its fra-
grant white flowers, which appear
in -August, are familiar. The
charming variety rubro-marginata
has flowers margined with red.
C. florida, a native of Japan,
is the parent of one of the
types of Clematis which give
beauty to the English garden ;
these bloom in May and June
and must not be pruned in
spring. C. lanuginosa is the
parent of many of the largest-
flowered garden varieties which
bloom from July onwards ; all
the varieties of this type require
to be pruned fairly hard in
February. C. montana is one
of the most beautiful climbers
we possess. Its glistening white
flowers cover the leaves with
their beauty during May and
June. A lovely form of it is
called rubens, which has reddish
flowers. C. orientalis is easily
recognised by its small yellow
flowers, which appear in -August ;
it is, however, less beautiful than
the variety called tangutica,
which has larger flowers of richer
colour, and these appear from
July onwards. C. patens is
another Clematis from which
many ' garden varieties ha\e
Ijeen obtained. The forms of
this have white or blue flowers
in June ; the species is foimd
both in China and Japan.
C. Viticella produces many
has suggested notes upon this beautiful group of i garden varieties, wh'le it is one of the
flowers : " Would you be so kind as to give me parents of the weU-lmown C. Jackmanii.
the names of what you consider to be the best i The growth is strong, and the purple flowers
hardy, free-flowering Clematises ; colour, deep appear in piufusion.
blue, mau\'e. lavender, and white, none with
bars or bands upon them ? They are for
planting aganst a wall, but in rather an e.\- C. florida Varieties. — These all flower in -May
posed position, so tliat I wish them to be and June from buds on the wood matured the
hardy and to be at their best during June previous year. Belle of Woking, silver grey,
and Jul\-. — double ; Comete, white, with mauve stamens ;
In reply to this the following lists have been | Countess of Lovelace, mauve, double ; Duchess
carefully compiled. Species — that is, wild kinds — of Edinburgh, white, double ; Elaine, blue,
are enumerated and also the varieties, with a double ; loim Gould Vcitch, lavender, double ;
A SIXGLE PLAXT OF .\UBR1ET1A I.\ THE ROCK GARDEN
DIVIDED PORTIONS MAY BE PLANTED NOW.
SELECTION OF VARIETIES.
December 12, 1914.
THE GARDEN.
599
Lucy Leinoine, white, double ; Proteus, rose
purple ; Undine, blue, double.
C. patens Varieties. — These varieties, like the
foregoing, blossom from wood matured the
pre\'ious year ; consequently no pruning must
be done in spring. Albertine, white, semi-
double ; Albert Victor, deep la\-ender, with pale
bars ; Edith Jackman, white, flushed mauve ;
Fair Rosamond, blush white, with red bars ;
Lady Loudesborough, silver grey, pale bars ;
Lord Londesborough, mauve ; Miss Bateman,
white, red anthers ; Mrs. Ouilter, white ; Sir
Garnet VVolseley, pale blue, with reddish bars ;
Standishii, lavender blue ; The Queen, pale
lavender : Uranus, blue.
lavender, with violet bars ; Princess of Wales, deep
bluish mauve ; Ville de Paris, white, tinged lilac.
C. Jaclimanii Varieties. — All the varieties
belonging to tliis group flower on young wood,
and are improved by being cut back to within
a bud or two of the base of the previous year's
wood in spring. They blossom from August
onwards. Alexandra, reddish violet ; Earl of
Beaconsfield, purple ; Gipsy Queen, pvurple ;
Jackraanii superba, rich purple ; Jackmanii
alba, white ; Jackmanii rubra, red ; lilacina
floribunda, grey lilac ; Mme. Edouard Andre,
red ; magnifica, reddish purple ; Rubella,
purple ; Snow White, white ; Star of India,
purple, red bars ; Ville de Lyon, red.
PLANTING
IVY UNDER
TREES.
LARGE
In a good many private gardens and public parks
the ground beneath large trees is bare and un-
attractive, owing mainly to the fact that grass
will not grow, especially where the tree is a dense-
growing kind. Such bare places are, to say the
least, an eyesore, and an unnecessary one at that.
Although there are a number of plants that will
grow in such positions, it is doubtful if any are
better than the common Ivy. This will thrive in
almost any kind of soil, keeps green all the year
round, and beyond an annual cutting over in spring
needs little attention. In the accompanying illus-
A GARDEN SCENE SHOWING A LARGE TREE WITH AN UNDER- PLANTING OF IVY.
C. lanuginosa Varieties. — These varieties com-
mence to flower in July and continue for a couple
of months. The branches may be pruned fairly
hard in spring, say, to within four or five buds of
the base of the previous year's wood. Alba
magna, white ; Beauty of Worcester, bluish
violet ; Duke of Norfolk, deep mauve, with broad,
pale bars ; Fairy Queen, pale flesh, with pink
"bars ; Gem, deep lavender ; Grand Duchess,
white, flushed rose ; Lady Caroline NeviU,
blush white, mauve bars ; La France, violet
purple ; Lord NeviU, blue ; La Gaule, white,
semi-double ; Louis van Houtte, violet purple ;
Mme. van Houtte, white ; Marcel Moser, pale
C. Viticella Varieties. — All these blossom on
young wood from July onv/ards. The branches
may be cut fairly hard back in spring. Ascotensis,
blue ; kermesiana, red ; La Nancienne, violet,
double ; Othella, purple ; rubra grandiflora, red ;
Othello, white and purple. Clematis Durandii
is a very pretty, bluish-flowered hybrid which is
said to contain C. integrifolia blood. It is of
good constitution, and blossoms very freely from
July onwards. There is a paler variety called
pallida. The foregoing lists, though extensive,
could be added to, but sufficient have been named
to enable anyone to make selections ample enough
for any ordinary sized garden. D.
tration the effect of Ivy growing under a tree such
as we have in mind is well shown. The present is
a good season for planting. The soil should, how-
ever, be first dug over at least a spit deep, and, if
a few roots are damaged in the process, no appre-
ciable harm will be done. If it is very poor, it
will be improved by the addition of old potting
soil, mud from ponds or ditches, or, indeed,
almost anything that contains plant food. Small
pieces of Ivy with roots attached are easily
procurable, and may be planted from i foot to
iS inches apart. Of course, the Ivy will not be
allowed to climb the trunk of the tree ; if cut over
annually, there will be no danger of this.
600
THE Gx\RDEX.
[December 12. 1914-
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruit Under Glass.
Cherries. — The earliest batch of trees should
now be placed under cover, especially if ripe fruits
are desired in April. Little more than protection
will be necessary for some time, as the Cherry will
not stand much heat until the stoning period is
over. A temperature of 40° at night is quite high
enough for the next two months, and this may be
allowed to drop to 35° if sharp frost sets in, merely
allowing sufficient heat in the pipes to exclude frost.
Open the ventilators freeh- during mild weather,
and syringe the trees about midday when the
weather is bright. Very careful attention is
necessary in regard to watering.
Protecting Vine Borders. — Although the roots
of early Vines should be indoors, there are
instances where this is not the case, and it becomes
necessary to protect the roots from cold rain and
snow. For this purpose some light, warm material
should be provided, such as Oak leaves with a
small quantity of stable manure. The leaves
produce a mild and lasting heat which is all
that is necessary, and this material should be
covered with corrugated zinc to carry oft the
moisture.
Late Vine Borders containing Vines on which the
Grapes are expected to hang for some time yet
should be covered with dryl leaves and shutters of
some kind to cast off the rain. This is better than
placing a quantity of manure over the borders in
winter.
Cucumber Seeds should be sown now, and
treated in the same way as advised for Melons in
last week's calendar. The plants should be ready
to put out in Januar^^.
Plants Under Glass.
Gardenias. — Plants in pots will need to be
watered carefully at this season. Admit fresh air
to the house whenever external conditions permit,
as nothing is more detrimental to these plants than
a close, stagnant atmosphere. Those which are
planted in the border must be protected by some
covering material if cold weather sets in. This is
better than an increase of fire-heat.
Mignonette. — If seeds were sown in small pots
in September, the plants will now be ready for
potting into larger pots, and this should be accom-
plished at once, or the colour of the foliage will
suffer seriously. Good fibrous loam and decayed
manure will suit them well, and a good sprinkling
of old lime rubble may be mixed with the compost.
Pot firmly, and place the plants in a cool, light
position.
Lachenalias. — These plants should now be
removed from the cold pits to a position near the
glass, in a temperature of 45° by night. When the
pots are well filled with roots, manure-water may
be applied in a weak state, and, as time advances,
a few of the most forward plants may be removed
to warnter quarters in order to prolong the flowering
season.
The Flower Garden.
Climbing Roses.— The supports to all climbing
Roses should be examined now, and all repairs
or renewals made before the plants are tied into
position. In thinning the plants, as much of the
old worn-out wood should be removed as can be
spared, as by far the best displav is produced
from young, healthy wood. In 'all cases the
branches ought to be allowed sufficient space
between them to ensure the full development of
the flowers and foliage during the summer. In
cases where new plants are necessary-, the ground
should be deeply trenched, and enriched by a
quantity of decayed manure from the farmyard.
Berried Shrubs.— If sharp frost sets in, some
protection must be provided to berried plants,
or the birds are almost sure to work havoc among
them. This is easily avoided bv placing ordinary
garden nets over the plants at "once, and, in the
case of Mistletoe berries, the nets should be secured
round the best bunches without delav.
Garden Paths. — The present is the best time
to make or renovate garden paths, In all cases
drainage should be the first consideration ; for
if this is not sufficient, the surface of the paths is
sure to present a sodden appearance during the
winter months. If new paths are to be made,
the ground should be removed to the depth of
15 inches, especially if there is considerable traffic,
and the bottom filled up with good hard core to
within 6 inches of the surface, finishing off with
the best gravel available. Old walks may be
forked over, and if the gra%el has lost its colour, a
dressing of new material should be applied.
Hardy Fruit.
The Fruit- Room. — Frequent attention will be
necessary in order to keep the room quite free
from decaying specimens, which must be removed
as soon as noticed. Sound fruits are best left
unmoved, especially in the case of Pears which
are approaching ripeness. Keep the ventUators
open in order to allow the atmosphere to be as dr}'
and cool as possible.
The Kitchen Garden.
Chicory. — The forcing of this winter salad plant
should receive attention. It is a very easy matter
to keep up a supply of tender young leave= through-
out the winter, provided some' dark, warm chamber
is available for the purpose. If only a small
supply is necessary, it may be grown in pots in
the same way as Seakale. The crowns should be
a little above the soil, as the young leaves are
easily affected by dampness.
Lettuce and Endive in frames must be freely
ventilated during mild weather. Stir the soil
between the plants and remove all decaying foliage.
The aim should be to keep the atmosphere of the
pit as dry as possible during the winter.
Carrots in Frames. — Young Carrots are always
welcome, and to have them ready in April the
seeds should be sowti in a gentle hot-bed about the
end of the year. .\ brick pit without fire-heat will
suit them well, and if a bed of leaves can be made
up now, there need be no difficulty in producing a
satisfactory crop. Protection from frost may be
provided by placuig mats or dry Bracken o^er the
lights as it becomes necessary.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Mushrooms. — Beds that have been in bearing
for a time and are showing signs of exhaustion
should be given a thorough soaking of liquid
manure with the chill taken oft'. In collecting
material for making up fresh beds, the manure
should be spread out in a shed with an open front
and turned over regularly every day, as it is
sometimes no easy matter to get it sufficiently
dry at this season of the year. The temperature
in' the Mushroom - house should not fluctuate
verj' much ; endeavour to maintain it at from
50° to 55°, and keep the atmosphere moist by
syringing the walls and paths.
Early Carrots. — If a sowing of Carrots in
frames has not been made to provide a supply
early in the new year, this should be seen to at
once. It wUl be necessary to place the frame on
some hot-bed material, and also to put some of this
round the sides. As mentioned in a previous
calendar, nice little Carrots can be had when grown
in sand with the addition of a little wood-ashes
if this is procurable. Beyond correct ventilation —
and this must be given on fine days — they reqiiire
little attention.
Rhubarb. — A few more roots should be lifted
to be in readiness for placing in the forcing-house,
and to keep up a succession a number of crowns
should be covered either with Rliubarb pots or
ordinary barrels. It will usually be found that
the quality of the Rhubarb is much finer when
gro^vn in this way.
The Flower Garden.
Christmas Roses. — In order to have these in
bloom towards the end of the month or the begin-
ning of January, it will be necessary to place hand-
lights or frames over them now that the flowers
will be showing. By this means the flowers will be
very much purer and fresher. To increase the
flower-stems, the plants should be given
frequent applications of liquid manure in a .tepid
state.
The Rockery. — \ow that the leaves of ail
decidU'Uis trees will have fallen, the rockery ought to
be gone over, and all leaves that are lodging about
the plants should be removed. It has been ad-
vanced by many that these leaves act as a sort
of protection to rock plants. This may be true
in some districts, but it certainly cannot be so in
the Northern Counties, where we arc subject to
so much moisture durmg winter. As I have fre-
quently' pointed out. a far better protection is t'>
be foimd in placing some grit or chips of slate or
granite round the necks '-^f the plants, which will
not onl\' keep the latter safe from moisture, but
will alsi' ward 'iff slugs.
Ceanothus Gloire de Versailles. — Among
autumn-flowermg plants it is doubtful if this
Ceanothus has an equal. It blooms profusely,
and the delicate blue or lavender flowers are
always greatly admired. Where these are growing,,
against a south wall, no protection shoiUd be
necessar;/, but in more e.xposed positions a little
protection must be given. It may be added
that the growths should be well ctit back in the
spring, as the flowers appear on the young growths.
Plants Under Glass.
Mignonette. — The most forward plants that
have been grown on in pots for early spring
flowering ought now to be staked, as It is important
that they be kept in an upright position. In
order to secure good heads, all the side growths
should be removed, and, as the pots become filled
with roots, the plants may be assisted with some
weak liquid manure. They should be grown as
close to the glass as is consistent with safety.
Coleus thyrsoideus. — As these plants are fast
developing their flowers, they must be given
more room, and on no account should they be
subjected to excessive heat. .\ greenhouse tem-
perature will suit them admirably at this stage,
and they should be well exposed to the light.
Cyclamens. — .A. number of the most forward
plants may be introduced into a little more
heat to give an early supply of flowers. There
is always a danger of these plants being attacked
by thrip when grown in a dry atmosphere, so that
every means should be taken to prevent this
by occasional fumigation. When they come into
bloom thev should be removed to the green-
house.
Nephrolepises. — Perhaps there is no class
of Ferns more handsome and none more suited
for furnishing stands in the public rooms
or more attractive in the conservatory than the
various forms of this Fern. To mention but
two varieties — Piersonii and Whitmanii — it would
be difficult to find more elegant Ferns when well
grown. These can be propagated b>' pegging
down the small oftsets into a bed of fibre, where
they will quickly become established.
Violets. — This is perhaps the most critical
season for the successful cultivation of the \'ioIet
under glass, as during the short, dull days of
December it is difficult to keep the pl.ants'from
damping. Under ordinary circumstances little
or no water will be required, but, should it be
necessary, care must be taken not to wet the
foliage when watering.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Canker in Apple Trees. — Various causes are
attributed to the presence of canker in these trees,
but possibly the chief is the roots getting into
an unsuitable subsoil. Where it is not possible
to lift and replant affected trees, much can be
done by carefully paruig the diseased part and
painting it over with coal-tar. Give the ground
round the trees a good dressing of hot lime.
Fruit Under Glass.
Strawberries. — Where Strawberries are expected,
early in the season, a batch should now be placed
in a house where a slight heat can be maintained.
The plants ought previously to have the loose soil
removed from the pots and be top-dressed with
a mixture of good loam and a little artificial plant
food, and afterwards be arranged on a shell dose
to the glass. As thev commence to grow, a little
more heat should be' turned on. and the plants
lightly sprayed over on fine days. In the
earlier stages of growth water must be applied
with care, as failure will result if the soil becomes
sodden.
Jons HtGHGATE.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopeloun Gardens, South Queensferry, N.B.
December 12, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
601
GARDENS OF TO-DAY.
BRANSGORE HOUSE,
CHRISTCHURCH.
THIS, the channiiiK residcrue 'jt Major
and Mrs. Wyndham Pain, is situated
on the high wooded slopes bordering
the New Forest to the north-east of
Christchurch, and commands magni-
ficent views of the sea and landscape
for many miles, ranging from south-east to west.
Immediately below the broad terrace in front of
the mansion there is a rockery border well
furnished with suitable kinds of
plants, grown in masses, with good
effect. Romneya Coulteri thrives re-
markably well in a warm corner of
this border, and bears flowers of
extra large size. The terrace itself
opens on a square-shaped formal
garden, well enclosed, on the south
side. Here in summer and autumn
Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums Charles
Turner and Mme. Crousse show to
great advantage. Heliotrope Lord
Roberts, Pentstemon Phryne, P.
Pink Bedder, P. Southcote Gem,
Pansy Lord Beaconsfield, purple
Petunias, Lobelia Victoria, L. Car-
mine Gem, Antirrhinums, Xico-
tianas and Scented leaved Gera-
niums combine to make a fine floral
display even as late in the season
as October.
The front lawns are enclosed by
Yew hedges, and the long, formal
borders here, which are in keeping
with their immediate surroundings,
contain fine collections of Michael-
mas Daisies. They formed a unique
feature, and showed to much advan-
tage against their dense background
of Pine trees. A long and broad
sweep of lawn, bordered by Pines
and Furze (which grows remarkably
well in this district), leads gently
downwards to the south-west to the
Rose garden, which opens suddenly
to the visitor, and comes as a most
pleasant surprise, as the numerous
beds are formed on botli sides in
floral recesses. This is a fitting
termination to the grass glade, with
the mansion at the head.
Mr. P. C. Kitcher, the able head-
gardener, has splendid crops in the
vegetable and fruit gardens, as well
as of plants under glass. Zonal Pelar-
goniums fill one span-roofed struc- the new
ture. The plants were grown in
the open air during the summer,
and are now bushy specimens, flowering freely.
Notable are Lady Warwick, Mary Carmichael,
Prince of Wales, Princess of Wales, Stella Massey,
Snowstorm, Mark Twain, Mme. Friedlander and
Mrs. Lawrence, among some thirty odd \arieties.
Chrysanthemums, both for the production of
large blooms and in sprays for decoration, are grown
to perfection. Very fine were Miss Elsie Davies,
Reginald Vallis, Queen Mary. His Majesty, Kara
Dow, Mrs. Gilbert Drabble, W. Turner, Pockett's
Crimson, George Hemming and Bob Pulling.
One ideal span-roofed house was filled with
remarkably healthy Tree Carnations.
Tliere are many other lovely features which
space forbids recounting, Init I wish to express
my gratitude to .Major and Mrs. Wyndham Pain,
who take such keen interest in their beautiful
gardens, for kindly permitting nre to inspect
them. G. G.\rxi£R.
NEW AND RARE PLANTS.
AWARDS OF MERIT.
Chrysanthemum MoUie Godfrey.— -A. single-
flowered variety of large exhibition size, and of
that precise tone of cerise pink which, modified
CULTIVATION AND COL-
LECTION OF MEDICINAL
PLANTS IN ENGLAND.
BR.\SSO-CATTLEYA SHOWN BY MESSRS. SI
AND CO. IN LONDON LAST WEEK.
or refined when seen under artificial light, is of
inestimab'.e value to the florist-decorator and
generally for decorative work. From E. Mocatta,
Esq., Woburn Place, ..^dd'estone (gardener, Mr. T.
Stevenson).
Brasso-Cattleya Pink Pearl (Cattleya Lord
Rothschild x Brasso-Cattleya Veltchii). — An
exquisitely beautiful variety of large size ; sepa's,
petals and lip wholly pink throughout, and of a
very charming shade. Exhibited by Messrs.
Stuart Low and Co., Jarvisbrook, Sussex.
The above awards were made by the Royal
Horticultural Societv on the ist inst.
[The folhwing has been recenlly published as
Leaflet Xo .288 by Ihe Board of Agricullme.]
VALERIAN (VALERIANA OFFICINALIS, L.).
(Continued from page 591.)
Cultivation. — In Derbyshire cultivation is from
wild plants collected in local woods and trans-
planted to the prepared land. Preference is given
in collecting to daughter plants and young flower-
ing plants which develop at the
end of slender runners given off
by the perennial rhizomes of the
parent plant. Many of the young
plants do not flower in the first
vear. but produce a luxuriant crop
of leaves and yield rhizomes of
good quality in the autumn.
Planting is usually done on land
treated with farmyard manure.
Weeding requires considerable at-
tention, and it is advantageous to
give plenty of liquid manure and
artificial fertiliser from time to
time. The plants require plenty
of water. Any flowering tops
are cut off, as they appear, to
encourage the growth of the
rhizome as much as possible. In'
September or October the tops
are cut off with a scythe and the
rhizomes dry up. The clinging
character of the Derbyshire soil
does not allow them to be left later.
The rhizomes are sliced longitu-
dinally to facihtate washing, whicli
is done in a large perforated wooden
box 2 feet to 2i feet deep,
secured by stakes in the bed of
a local stream, a rake being used to
stir up the " hearts." The rhizomes
are dried on a shed floor about 6 feet
from the ground. The wet materia!
is strewn on perforated boards,
below which a large coke stove is
kept going until the drying is com-
plete. About twenty-four parts of
tlie dry product are obtained from
100 parts of fresh rhizome. Derby-
shire Valerian plants are of tw(5
spe ies, V. Mickanii, Syme, on lime-
stone, and V.s ambucifolia on the
coal measures. The former yields
most of the cultivated Derbyshire
rhizomes.
LART LOW OTHER MEDICINAL PLANTS.
Experimental growing of some
American drugs, such as Senega,
Grindelia, Pokeroot and Lobelia, is made at Darenth.
" Botanical herbs " for sale by chemists and
medical herbalists are cultivated at Carshalton.
They are grown in rows, which are increased m
number according to the demand. The following
are regularly cultivated :
Balm (Melissa ofticinaHs, L.), for herb.
Comfrey (Symphytum officinale, L.), for root.
Feverfew (Chrysanthemum Partheniimi, L.), for
herb.
Greater Celandine (Clielidor.ium majus, L.), for
herb.
Germander (Teucrium Scorodonia, L.), for herb.
602
THE GARDEN.
^December 12. 1914.
Marshniallow (Althaea officinalis, L.), ioi root and
leaves.
Mugwort (.Artemisia vulgaris, L.), for root.
Pennyroyal (Mentha Pulegiuni, L.), for herb.
Rue (Ruta graveolens, L.), for herb.
Southernwood (.Artemisia Abrotanum), for herb.
Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare, L.), for herb.
\\'ormwood (Artemisia Absinthium, L.), for herb.
Yarrow (Achillea Millefolium, L.), for herb.
These herbs and roots are in steady demand,
and although those gronii in England are preferred,
Continental supplies have to be imported to satisfy
all needs. They are easily grown from seed, but
propagation is commonly by division of old
perennial plants. They succeed well from cuttings.
Only Pennjrroyal presents uncertainty as regards
crop, this species being diminished by drought.
Most of these crops are worth in the dry state from
20S. to 30s. per cwt.
{To be conliniicd.)
i MiUer, Entente Cordiale, Rose Queen, Chateau de Clos
\ougeot, Paul LMe, Amateur Teyssier, Victor Hum
A. R. Goodwm, Alme. Segond Weber, George C. Waud
Marquise de Smety, Mme. Antoine JIari, Fisher Holme*'
Le Progr^s, Lieutenant Chaure and Jlrs. \aron Ward'
lhl5 would be a total of seventy plants. For the pillars we
suggest the following : Effective, Climbing .Mrs. Grant
Kichmond, *Amencan PiUar,»Leontinc Gervaise, Zephyrine
; Drouhin and Ehse Eobichon. The two marked with an
asterisk would come either side of the path opi>nin"
These are all popular Eoses, with a good blending of colour
' and of easy culture. When planting, give each plant
a handful of bone-flour just beneath the surface soih
I MISCELLANEOUS.
TREATMENT OF SOIL (,n. A. Furdham).—W'e think
your so)l is probably somewhat sour and in need of
hme As you are going to take all the Carnations out
we think it would be ad\isable to put on a "ood dress-
j ing of lime now, using halt a bushel of quicklime to
I each square rod, placing it in heaps and covering them
with soil for about a fortnight, then spreading and di-'in" it
in. In addition to this, we should be inclined to "Tve
a dressing of sulpliate of potash if you can obtain it in
the spring, using IJoz. to the square yard. We do not
I think the millipedes will do very much harm to the woody
I roots of Roses, and would not use the lime there, but the
TO
ANSWERS
CORRESPONDENTS.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND A'SSVlE.JlS.—T/ie Editor endeavours to
make The Garden helpful to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no malter lehat the braneh of gardening may be, and
with that object makes a special featare of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearlij and concisely leritien on one side oj the paper only,
and addressed to the EmiOK of THE Gaedes, 20, Tavistock
sulphate of potash dressing alone. If your bush of la
Tosca IS still ahve, though dormant, we would leave it
to see if it will make new gro\vth uctt sprin'^ if all
the wood is dead, dig it up and burn it. Of the Roses
you name we can recommend the following for general
garden use : Gustave Regis, Duchess of^ Welhngton
Lyon, Jfrs. David McKcc, Lady Ilillingdon, JLrs Varon
Ward, Lady Alice Stanley and G. C. Waud. Other good
varieties of comparatively recent introduction, but not
now expensive, are Entente Cordiale (Pcrnet-Ducher's)
.Miss Cynthia Forde, General Macarthur, .irthur R.
Goodwin, Lady Battersea, James Coey and Lady Pirrie.
VARIOUS QUESTIONS (iJlMdc).—" Color Standards
and Color Nomenclature," by Robert Eidgway, published
by tlie author in Washington, U.S.A., will give you the
charts you desire. Clarkia is named after Captain Clarke,
who accompanied Captain Lews in his journey up the
Missouri and to the Rocky Mountains in 1884. He
flourislied at the end of the eighteenth and the beginning
of the nineteenth century. The name was "iven by
Pursh, who, however, spelt it Clarckia. PulchcUa mean
Doin and the very old though useful and distinct Zyo-
pctaliim Mackayi. Cattleya Fabia alba was also very
beautiful and chaste-looking. Silver Banksian medal "
In a rather extensive display Messrs. Stuart Low and
CO., Jarvisbrook, Sussex, had a very fine example of
Vaii.la sanderiana, some beautiful sprays of V. coirulea
Cattleya labiata reedlcyensis (a lovely white formi.
Laiho-Cattleya luminosa (of orange and crimson colouring)
bophro-Cattleya Doris (intensely rich cerise), Cattleya
aurca, c. Itaphaeto alba and Laslio-Cattleya Eldorado
o"'';"',,^*'''!'^^ was very fine. The new Brasso-Cattleya
link Pearl (see "New and Bare Plants") was also shown
by this firm. SUver Banksian medal.
Messrs. Sander and Sons, St. Albans, showed verv fine
specimens of Cypripcdium Sandera;, Cattleya Diisseldorlf. i
Undine, Cattleya Fabia alba, La-ho-Caftleya primuliua
(yellow sepals and crimson brown, much-veined Up)
together with Cadogyne mooreana (white) and a plea-in"
variety of Odontoglossums. Cypripcdium Corsair was
also amoug Wnds of distinctive merit. Silver Flora
medal.
Messrs. Charle.sworth and Co.,
Street. Cocent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address j P'''^**y or beautiful, and integripet,>vla refers to undivided
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
;amples, were exhibited bv Messrs. W. Cutbush and Sons,
Hishgate, K"., the very beautiful "VMiite Swan. Srmstar
and Goldfinch (yellow), Edna (deep heliotrope), May
])av and Lady Ingestre (both pink flowered), the
red Malmaison (large) and Mrs. C. F. Baphael being among
the best in a nice lot.
Frtht and Vegetable Committee.
Present : J. Cheal, Esq. (chairman), and Messrs. G. Wood-
ward. Edwin Beckett, W. Pope, A. Grubb, A. R. Allan,
Henrv Hooper, H. J. Wright, J. Davis, W. Crump, J. G.
Weston. A. Bullock, E. A. Bunyard, P. C. JL Vcitch,
Owen Thomas and W. Poupart.
Messrs. George Bunvard and Co., Maidstone, w^re
awarded a gold^ medal for a table collection of Apples,
embracing upwards of a hundred varieties, the baskets of
fruits being of the finest description. Bismarck, Bowhill
Pippin, Lady Derbv, Lane's Prince Albert, Royal Jubilee,
Pvival. AUington Pippin, Beauty of Kent, Byford Wonder,
Scarlet Nonpareil, Edward VXl., Norman's Pippin, Adam's
Pearmain and Brownlce's Fvussct were among the best
in a really superb lot. An interesting feature of the
exhibition 'was the arranging of the fruits in their season
of usefulness, though the " season " naturally varies from
vear to year, and often in contrary directions. To the
student, however, it afforded fruit for thought and
consideration.
The collection of Apples and Pears arranged "by Messrs.
Cannell and Sons, Eynsford, Kent, and for which a small
silver cup was awarded, was considered by many to be
the finest at this meeting, the whole of the fruits — some
one hundred and twenty varieties— being of high-class
excellence and refinement. The manner of staging, too,
was good, small Crotons and occasional Ferns, as used in
table decoration, being employed with good effect. The
finest dishes of Apples were Peasgood's Nonsuch, Emperor
Alexander, Lane's Prince Albert, Bramley's Seedling,
Wellington (a really grand dish), Cox's Orange Pippin,
King of the Pippins, Blue Pearmain, Newton Wonder,
Lord Derby, Norfolk Beauty, Bietigheimer's lied (a variety
remarkable for distinctive skin coloration), Cox's
Pomona. Charles Ross and Gloria Mundi. Of Pears we
noted Duchesse d'Angoulemc, Le Lectier, Dr. Shiel,
Catillac. tlvedale's St. Germain, Beurrfi Bachelier,
Verulani. Vicar of Winkfiekl and Charles Ernest. A
reallv handsome exhibit.
The Marquis of Ripon, Coombe Court, Kingston Hill,
Surrev (gardener. ]\lr. T. Smith), had about thirty dishes
of Apples, all of high quality, Dutch Codlin, Norfolk
Beaufin, Celhni, Bismarck, Reinette du Canada, Welhngton
and Peasgood's Nonsuch being among those shown.
Th<^ Earl of Harrington, Elvaston, Derby (gardener,
Mr. J. H. Goodacre), sent a dozen bunches of excellent
Grapes, for which a silver cup was awarded. The varieties
were Muscat of Alexandria, Appley Towers, Black Alicante
and Chasselas Napoleon, the bunches being large and
superbly finished. Splendid dessert Apples were also
shown .
Sir Randolf Baker, Bart., M.P.. Blandford, was awarded
a silver Knightian medal for a collection of two dozen
ApplC'^ and Pears. Blenheim Orange, Rival, Peasgood's
Nonsuch and Adam's Pearmain were all very fine.
Messrs, Jt. Veitch and Sous, Exeter, had an extensive
collection of Apples, Blenheim Orange, Striped Beaufin,
Hismarck, Newton Wonder, Alfriston (very fine), Lord
llinfUip, Bramley's Seedlin ', Brownlee's* Rnsset and
Lady Henniker being some of the best. Silver-gilt
Kiiiuhtiiiii nirdal.
A silvi i-L:ilt Knightian medal was also awarded to
Studley College, Warwickshire, for a superb collection
of vegetables, which incliidrd grand Ailsa Craig Onions,
Prizetaker Leek. King ImIwjiviI Potato, Long Red Surrey
and Sutton's Early Gfm Cain.ts, Duke of York Potato,
Sutton's Autumn Protecting Broccoli, Dwarf Gem Brussels
Sprouts, Green Top Beet and other vegetables, all of high-
class character.
The Hon. Vicary Gibbs, Elstrec (gardener, ftlr. Beckett),
had an extensive collection of Apples, for which a silver-
gilt Knightian medal was awarded. A large number
were of dessert sorts, Cox's Orange Pippin, Adam's Pear-
main, Scarlet Nonpareil, American Mother, King of
Pippins and Blenheim Orange being noted among many.
Mellington, ICmperor Alexander, Bramley's Seedling and
Tnwi'i nf (ilamis were also flue.
Sir Montague Turner, Bedfords, Havering, Essex
(gardener, Mr. Humphreys), had a collection"(eighteen
varieties) of Apples and Pears of considerable attractive-
ness. The fruits were very beautiful and refined. Of
Pears, Beurrd Alexandre Lncas and Dnchessc d'Angouleme
were excellent ; while Bismarck, Ribston Pippin, Duke
of Devonshire, Christmas Pearmain and Sanspareil
represented the pick of the Apples.
Captain S. G. Reid, R.E., The Elms, Yalding, Kent
(gardener, Mr. J. Coleman), received a silver-gilt Banksian
medal for a collection of six dozen dishes of Apples and
Pears, the produce being of the finest description. Annie
Elizabeth, Bramley's Seedling, Newton Wonder,
Edward VIT. and Blenheim Orange were particularly
good. Pear Beurrg Alexandre Lucas was superb.
Messrs. J. Cheal and Sons, Crawley, received a silver-
gilt Banksian medal for a medium-sized, though excellent,
collection of Apples, among which we noted Crawley
Beauty. Charles Ross. Lane's Prince Albert, Peasgood's
Nonsuch, Blenheim Orange, Newton Wonder, Annie
Elizabeth, Bramley's Seedling and Royal Jubilee, all being
of superb quality. There were some sixty varieties
staged, most of the fruits in perfect condition.
F. J. B. Wingfield Digby, Esq., Sherborne. Dorset
(gardener, Mr. Turton), was awarded a silver-gilt Knightian
medal for a handsome lot of Apples and Pears, both
cnhnary and dessert, Gloria IMundi, Lane's Prince Albert,
Golden Noble and Tower of Glamis being some of the
best Apples. Beurr6 d'Anjou, Beurre Alexandre Lucas.
Winter Nelis and Beurre Baltet Pdre were among the best
Pears. A very fine exhibit.
Messrs. W. Seabrook and Son, Chelmsford, had a well-
arranged exhibit of some forty dishes of Apples, the fruits
of a most attractive kind and handsome ^\ithal. Lord
Derby, The Queen, Cox's Orange Pippin, Bismarck,
Emperor Alexander, King of the Pippins, lUiyal Jubilee,
Beauty of Kent, Blenheim Orange, Worcester Pearmain
and Peasgood's Nonsuch were some of the flner examples.
Silver Knightian medal.
The Barnham Nurseries, Limited, Bognor.were awarded
a silver-gilt Knightian medal for a collection of ninety-nine
baskets of Apples of excellent quality, Annie Elizabeth,
Adam's Pearmain, Peasgood's Nonsuch, Newton Wonder,
Cox's Orange Pippin, Bowhill Pippin (good late keeper),
Brownlee's Russet, Egremont Russet, Charles Ross,
Beauty of Kent, Barnack Beauty, King Edward vn. and
Lady Henniker being conspicuously good and noteworthy,
Mr. Charles Turner, Slough, was awarded a silver
Knightian medal for sixty dishes of excellent Apples of
the leading sorts. An imposing feature of the group was
a fine basket of the new culinary Apple Arthur Turner,
which received an award of merit tw^o years ago, and is
being distributed now for the first time. It is possessed
of many good qualities, among which size and its
suitabiUty for cooking are not the least. Golden Noble,
Charles Ross. Bramley's Seedhng, Washington, Tjder's
Kernel, Annie Elizabeth and Peasgood's Nonsuch were
other notable varieties in a fine lot.
C. L. Gordon, Esq., Castle Douglas, N.B. (gardener,
Sir. James Duft), was awarded a silver-gilt Banksian
medal for some twenty dishes of Apples, for the most part
fruits of high excellence. The collection inchided Cox's
Orange Pippin, Warner's King, Rival, King of the
Pippins, Washington, Lane's Prince Albert, Bismarck and
Christmas Pearmain.
From the Horticultural College, Swanley, Kent, came
an excellent exhibit of bottled fruits and preserved vege-
tables, whose importance at the moment, both to the
nation and the individual, should appeal with increasing
force. Peaches, Pears, Currants, Raspberries, Apricots
and Plums were among the fruits, with Tomatoes, young
Potatoes, Carrots, Celery, French Beans, Peas and
Aspara^s among -vegetables. The exhibit was very
tastefuuy displayed, and, in addition, the items could be
inspected with ease.
Messrs. Dobbie and Co.) Edinburgh, received a silver
Knightian medal for a collection of twenty varieties of
Potatoes, all recommended by the Board of Agriculture
for withstanding " wart disease." Some of the varieties
were Great Scot, Burnhouse Beauty, Provost, Climax,
Abundance, Blilecross Early (one of the most valuable
for earlv work). Golden Wonder. Conquest, Dobbie's
Favourite and "What's Wanted. They were very attrac-
tivelv staged.
The gold medal collection of fruit from J. A. Nix, Esq.,
Tilgate, Crawley (gardener, Mr. E. Neal), was a great
attraction, representative of fruit culture in its highest
excellence. One could only say that it was magnificent,
so very fine were all the items and so imposingly staged.
The brick row consisted of basket examples, each contain-
ing about sixteiii truits. The varieties in this row were, of
Apples, Peasgood's Nonsuch, Lane's Prince Albert, Norfolk
Beauty, Gascoyne's Scarlet. Edward VII., Royal Jnbil**e.
Nancy Jackson, Blenheim Orange, M^ro du Manage,
Ne^^■ton Wonder. Brandey's Seedling, Tlie Quceni
Bismarck and Lord Derby ; of Pears, Beurrfi Die], Mari'-
Benoist, Beurr6 Bachelier. Catillac, Doyennfi du Comici-
and Duchesse d'Angouleme. Two other rows, largely of
dessert sorts, and equally meritorious, were arrantred on
dishes in the ordinary way.
PERPETUAL FLOWERING CARNATION SOCIETY.
The seventeenth exhibition of this society was held in
the Royal Horticultural Hall, Vincent Square, on thf
2nd inst., and was generally considered a success. In
the main the larger classes were freely contested, though
occasionally some classes were not represented at all.
as in the case of Class 1, which is one of the more impor-
tant of the show. The competition in the dinner-tabh-
classes, too, was nil, only one exhibitor appearing in^
each. The trade, as usual, was well represented around
the sides of the hall, and here at least, as also in the better
classes generally, superb flowers were seen. At the closi^
of the show the flowers were sold by auction for the Ix-nefit
of the Belgian Relief Fund, many growers contributing
their flowers whole-heartedly for this laudablr object.
Below we give particulars of the more important exhiltits.
For three vases of twelve blooms each of Briti-h iKi^i-lties
distributed since January, 1912, only two exhibitors
came to the front, air. Engelmann being in the fir.st place
with Fanny (fancy), Snow-storm (white) and very fine
Scarlet Carola. Messrs. Alhvood Brothers, Hayward'8
Heath, was second with Mary Allwood, Salmon Enchan-
tress and Queen Alexandra (pink).
In a like class for American novelties, Mr. Engelmann
was alone, staging Gorgeous (cerise), Enchantress Supreme
(pink) and Peerless (deep cerise).
For the Monro Challenge Cup (value fifty guineas) for
twelve vases of Carnations, twelve varieties, twenty -
flve blooms of each, four competitors staged collections;
and here the finest quality flowers of the show were seen.'
First, Mr. Engelmann, who staged White Enchantress,
Enchantress Supreme, Fanny, Carola. Colleen (new
pink). Scarlet Carola. Sunstar (yellow), Lady Meyer
(pink), Lady Northcliffe, Gorgeous (cerise), "White Wonder
and Benora (fancy) ; second. Colonel Rideout, The Clury
Nurseries, Langley, who had White Enchantress, Lady
Northcliffe, Gorgeous, May Day, Mikado (heliotrope)^
Winsor, Mr. C. W. Ward (cerise), Triumph (crimson).
Scarlet Glow, Baroness de Brienen (pink), White Wonder
and Sunstar. Messrs. Allwood Brothers were in the third
place.
For one vase of fifty blooms, one variety. Mr. J. C.
Jenner, Rayleigh, was first with good Enchantress.
For a vase of twenty -five blooms, one variety, Sir.
H. J. Dudney, South Road Nurseries, Erith, was first
with Delice, an Enchantress of deeper shade ; second.
Messrs. W. Wells and Co., Merstham.
For tw'enty-five blooms of any one pink variety, as
per schedule, Messrs. Wells andJCo., Merstham. were
first with a magnificent vase of 'Pink Sensation, many
of the giant flowers 4 inches across. Mr. Jenner, Rayleigh.
was second.
For twenty-five blooms of Mrs. Lawson or cerise -
shaded sorts, Messrs. Wells were again first ■with Good
Cheer (deep cerise).
In the class for twenty-five blooms of any white variety.
Mr. H. T. Mason, Hampton Hill, was first with White
Wonder, having excellent flowers ; second. Messrs.
Allwood Brothers, who staged Wivelsfield White ; third.
Mr. Jenner, with White Enchantress.
For twenty-five blooms of scarlet, Messrs. WeUs and
Co. again led the way, having the fine American variety
Champion ; second, filr. H. T. Mason, with Scarlet Glow.
The last-named exliibitor was first in a similar class for
crimson with Warrior, a very handsome variety.
For twenty-five blooms of any other self not named
in the foregoing classes, Messrs. Allwood Brothers were
first with Mary Allwood in fine condition ;( second, Mr.
Dudney.
For twenty-five fancy sorts, Messrs. Wells and Co.,
Merstham, bad a ver>' fine vase of Benora, and secured
first prize.
For twelve blooms of any registered variety not in
commerce, Messrs. Wells and Co. took first prize with
Pink Sensation, Messrs. H. T. Mason and H. J. Dudney
being placed equal second mth Warrior and Delice
respectively.
For the best vase of Princess Dagmar (frinison). the
leading prize being a silver cup presented by Messrs.
Patten and Co., Tewkesbury, Massachusetts, U.S.A..
to be won outright, Messrs. Allwood Brothers were success-
ful, being the only competitors. The blooms were ver^■
fine.
For a group of Carnations in pots on a floor space
25 square feet, first prize a silver-gilt challenge vase
offered by Lord Howard de Walden, Mrs. A. Morrison.
Shawford' Place, Winchester, took the lead ; second,
Mr. W. Heath, gardener to Sir D. F. Gooch, Chelmsford,
both having nice groups.
In the novelty class, awards of merit were granted to
Nora West (pink), from Mr. G. West, Datchet ; and to
Dehcc (pink), from BIr. H. J. Dudney, Erith. Neither
struck US as high-class Carnations.
In addition to the non-competitive groups reported
at the Royal Horticultural Society's meeting, special
mention should be made of a magnificent group from Mr.
W. E. Wallace. Eaton Bray, Dunstable. The flowers werr
of magnificent quality throughout, and probably nothing
so fine has ever before been staged. The arrangement
was by that master-hand fiorist, Mr. R. F. FeUon of
sv.
THE GARDEN.
[December 12, 1914
Messrs. Fclton and Son^ Hauovcr Square, and wa& tlic
iaost imposing feature of the meeting. Mr. Wallace
i.rou"ht this unique collection of flowers for the benefit
,.f the Jiel^ian ReUef Fund, and was awarded a ^^old medal.
Mr H. Burnett, Guernsey, also had a fine e.xhibit.
During the afternoon Mr. Montatm Allwood gave a
most interesting lantern lecture on ■" Perpetual-flowering
Carnations," a summary of which is given below. He said :
" The slides I have selected to illustrate our subject
deal exclusively witli culture, because the history of the
(lower can be gathered from books, and you can attend
TO that as well as 1, while culture is a subject we can discus^
xo the benefit of all after I have stated my views. Th^
-tock is all-important. The value of anythinjr is its
,iualitv, and a selected stock must be worth considerably
niore than an uuselected one. The Perpetual-fiowering
^'arnation is perpetually growing and varieties deteriorate,
but the rate of deterioration is governed by the culture
-ind selection of cuttings. Some growers I know entirely
doubt this but to my mind it is self-evident ; at least, I
maintain that the past has proved the truth of this state-
ment I think all agree tliat January cuttings, when
well handled, produce the best resuits. I am sure the
September-rooted cuttings from old worn-out plants
iiroduce the worst, unless tops of young plants propagati-d
late produce more disastrous results ; but, mark you,
-uch blunders in culture, if perpetuated, must ruin your
-took and a poor Carnation, to my mind, is the worst
flower in the world." Following the various details
■1 pf culture which are more or less familiar to all, Mr. Allwood
touched upon the feeding of Perpetual-flowering Car-
nations, and said : " If I was to say, ladies and gentlemen,
That T have a patent pill which will cure all ills, that is,
if you have a headache, take my pills ; if you have a back
iiche consult my pills, &:c., you would all consider me
ridiculous ; but if I was to say that I have a fertiliser
which benefits all plant life, you \\oukl bL-lieve me. I
Think I could make you believe that the same fertiliser
would benefit Carnations, Roses, Chrysanthemums,
Ac yet if 1 asked vou, * Do vou give your horse the same
food as vour dog?* you would smile; but surely there
is a greater difference between a Perpetual-flowering
Carnation and a Rose than between a horse and a dog.
\ Perpetual-Uowering Carnation is perpetually growing;
it is different to all other plants, and consequently
requires a different food. We must study the food for
iilants as much as we do the temperature and other details
uf culture. I say, and have said for years, you must have
an organic food for Carnations to obtain the best results,
because chemical foods act as a drug upon them, eventually
destroying the constitution of your stock. T do not wish
•to appear before you as a bigot, but surely the Perpetual-
flowering Carnation is the greatest flower under cultiva-
tion, and its future as a hardy garden plant is not fully
ruaUsed at present. Some day it will be a popular plant
lor \vindow-boxes, ifcc, while our parks and gardens
in the summer will be incomplete without it. The
possibihties of raising the plant from seed must also appeal
To the amateur and small grower. The future of the
Ijlant is perhaps brighter than that of any other, and
I think there can be no doubt that in the future all the
tjest new varieties will hail from this country, and the
world will look to Great Britain for the finest new
Carnations."
THE Annual General Meeting.
As with the exhibition, the attendance at the annual
•jeneral meeting, held at 6.30 p.m., was considerably
-mailer than' usual. Mr. J. S. Brunt^>n occupied the
.-hair. The annual report, on the proposition of Mr.
K. F. Hawes, was taken as read. The chairman briefly
reviewed the work of the society duriuLZ the past year,
and while admitting that the Perpetual Flowering Car-
nation Society, like all other horticultural societies, had
fi'lt the effects of the war, he, nevertheless, felt sure that
the set-back was only temporary. His proposed adoptioji
of the report was accepted without dissent.. The financial
-fatement was likewise formally adopted, after the
treasurer, Mr. L. J. Cook, had emphasised the necessity
of curtailing the expenditure during the coming year.
Very hearty thanks were tendered to the retiring officers
and committee by Mr. F. Streetcr, seconded by Mr.
W. J. Reed. Lord Howard de Walden was unanimously
Ti;-elected president, and with the exception of one German
■member all the \ice-prcsidents were likewise re-elected.
Mr. J. S. Brunton was again re-elected as chairman of
committee, Mr. W. E. Wallace vice-chairman, and Mr.
L. J. Cook hon. treasurer. Mr. T. A. Weston was re-elected
hon. secretary, Mr. E. F. Hawes show superintendent,
.and the same gentleman and Mr. R. Pinches auditors.
The retiring eleven members of committee were again
-jMit forward for re-election, v;ith the addition of four
others. These four gentlemen were all elected, the com-
jiletc list comprising Messrs. M. C. Allwood, G. H. Laurence,
II. T. Mason, S. Mortimer, W. H. Page, W. J. Iteed,
Thomas Page, W. Wells, sen., A. E. Usher, F. Streeter
and E. G. Fairbairn.
The ordinary business having been disposed of, the
(hairman proposed that a letter be sent to Mr, C. Encel-
mann, a draft of which he read. It was the first occasion
that the annual general meeting had not been graced
1>y the cheery countenance of Mr. Engelmann. It was
Afr. Engelmann*s misfort\me that he was born in Germ.any.
but he was confident that no more loyal British subject
existed. Mr. W. E. WaUace, Mr. W. H. Page and Mr.
I'audevin endorsed the remarks of the chairman in most
^ilowing terms, their testimony being greeted with great
enthusiasm by all present. The climax was reached,
however, when Mr. E. V. Bouckcnooghe and Mr. Draps
Boudry substantiated the remarks of the previous speakers.
Mr. Bouckcnooghe, an Old Kewite, said it might seem
-urprising that a Belgian should look upon a German
l»orn man, even though a naturalised British subject
for fifteen years, with feelings of friendship ; but during
ihe ten years he had known Mr. Engelmann he had always
found him a gentleman, a true English gentleman. Mr.
I'jngelmanu's generosity in giving the whole of the flowers
in his exhibit for the benefit of the Belgian Fund was
unly one instance that he had knowledge of. The proposi-
tion of the chairman was carried with applan.'^e. At
a lati-r stage the chairman referred to the presence:; of
their friends from Belgium. Twelve months before,
these same gentlemen were with them under much happier
circumstances, and on behalf of the society lie asked
Messrs. Bouckcnooghe and Drajis Boudry to accept a?
a gift the sum of £4 4?. each, this amount havim: been
coilected as the result of the private sales of bloom at
the show prior to the auction.
Mr. Bouckcnooghe almost lost control of his excellent
English in expressing his thanks. He had to admit
that his nurseries at Ypres were no more, for, prior to his
leaving, several shells had exploded in his areenhouses,
and since he fled he had learned that at least fifty German
shells had fallen on the premises. He was utterly ruined,
but he was not downhearted. He had heard of British
generosity, but now he was in England he was over-
whelmed. Several of his friends in the room had promised
him and Mr. Boudry all the Carnation plants they wanted
when tliuy started afresh.
SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.
The monthly meecing of the Scottisli Horticultural
Association was held in the Hall, 5, St. Andr<^w Square.
Edinburgh, on the evening of December 1. Mr. James
Dobbie, a vice-president, occupied the chair. Exhibits
were not numerous, and included some good Roses from
the open, sent by Mr, Charles Comfort, The Gardens.
Broomficld, Davidson's Afains, which were wonderfully
good for the advanced date. Mr. D. Crough, Coohatin
Gardens, County Wicklow. Ireland, sent fine speciiuens
of Apples Newton Wonder and Royal Snow. The paper
of the evening was on " The Forcing of Vegetables," and
was read by the secretary in the absence of the author.
Ml". William T. Staward, gardener to .Alajor-Geuerul
Sir y. Lloyd, Aston Hall, Oswestry. The i-ajur was an
excellent one, and gave full details regarding this important
subject. It was well received, and listened to witli close
attention. Mr. Staward was thanked for his paper.
Nominations were made for the various o(halm'tn-flesh 8d
Mme. A. Chatenay (HT), salmon-pink ... Od
Mme. Ravaryr(HT), t>ranfte-yellow ... ... Od
Mrs. John Laing (HP), rose-pink ... ... 6d
Ulrich Brunner (HP), cherry-red ... ... 6d
12 FIRST-CLASS ROSES
All recommended by the National Rose Society.
■ K" Bees'lFamous Test Collection, 5/6.
Carriage Paid, C.W.O.
Betty (HT). ei'ppery rose... ... ... ... 8d
Captain Hay ward (HP), crimson-scarlet ... 8d
C. Testout (HP), salmon-pink ... ... ... 6d
Fisher Holmes (HP). 'rini-^un-scarlet ... ... Od
Frau Karl Druschki (HP), wliite ... ... Od
Hugh Dickson (HP). i.Timson ... ... ... Od
Lady Alice Stanley'(HT), silvery flesh 8d
Lady Ashtown (HT). deep pink 8d
Lyon (HI), slirimp-pink ... ... ... ... 8d
Mme. A. Chatenay (HT), salmon-pink ... Od
Mme. Ravary (HT), orange-yellow ... ... Od
Mrs. J. Laing (HP), rose-pink ... ... ... Od
12 ROSES FOR CUTTING
" M " Collection, 7/6, Carriage Paid, C.W.O.
Arthur" Goodwin, coppery urange-red ... ... 8d
Betty, coppery rose ... ... ... ... 8d
Edu Meyer, red and yellow ... ... ... 8d
General McArthur, bright scarlet-crimson ... 8d
Gruss an Teplitz, crimson, shaded scarlet ... Od
Harry Kirk, deep sulphur- vellow ... ... Sd
Killarney (HT), pink 8d
Mme. Abel Chatenay, salmon-pink • ... ... 6d
Mme. Jules Qrolez, bright rose ... ... Od
Mme. Ravary, pale orange ... ... ... Od
Rayon d'Or, deep orange-cadmium 1/-
Richmond, pure red-scarlet ... ... ... 8d
Any v;iriety can be supplied separately at prices
qncted.
" DailyT Mail " Rose (Mme. Ed. Herriot).
The new ilame-coloured Rose. A trnly mag-
nificent flower ; positively seems to set the
garden on fire.
Dwarf Trees, 2/- each ; 20/- doz. ; 0 strong
trees 10/-; carriage paid when'^ordered with
collections.
Standard Trees, 5/- and 7/0 each ; grand
heads ; carriage and special packing 1/- extra.
Send your order NOW, or write for a copy uf
Bees' Kose Catalogue, with full-page illustration of
" The Daily Mail " Rose, also photo, colour illus-
trations of over 100 more roses. Bees' " A. B.C." of
Kose Culture (lid. stamps) contains 32 pages ol
useful hints.
Besides the Rose List, Bees Ltd. would like to
send prospective buyers of hardy flowers a very
attractive 04-page Catalogue, with 20 pages of
Natural Colour photo, illustrations. There is in-
cluded a plan of a most beautiful and economical
flower border for planting now to bloom next year.
Tlie book is gratis and post free.
W'bate/er you want, write for it NOW. "Lest
you Forget".
175c, MILL ST.,
LIVERPOOL.
GARDEN.
-^^-
=^*to^
No. 2248.— Vol. LXXVIII.
December 19, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
Kew Guild Men in the Army. — A list of
members of the Kew Guild serving with His
Majesty's Forces is iji course of preparation for
publication in the next Journal to be issued in
January. Information, to include the name of
the regiment to which they are attached, from
members or their friends should be sent to Mr.
A. Osborn, igr, Kew Road, Richmond, Surrey.
The Christmas Daisy. — Only when we get a
mild late autumn is the beauty of Aster grandi-
florus seen in the open ground. This is unfortunate,
as it is one of the most beautiful species of the
genus. A good plan is to treat it as a pot plant,
giving it the same conditions as Chrysanthemums,
either growing it on in pots or lifting it from the
ground early. In this way it can be had in perfec-
tion, when its beautiful blue flowers make a striking
contrast to white and yellow Chrysanthemums
for decorating the conservatory. Its late-flowering
qualities also make it very valuable for cutting.
A New Oil-Seed Irom South America.— The
current issue of the Kew Bulletin contains some
interesting particulars of a new oil-seed from
South America. This is the seed of the tree known
as Osteophloeum platyspermum, or Myristica
platysperma, a native of North-West Brazil, where
it was discovered by Spruce in 1852. The fat
obtained on extraction with petroleum ether is
white and crystalline, with a slight smell, and
the seeds give the very high yield of 55-2 per cent,
of fat. Now that there is such a large demand
for all kinds of vegetable fat, the discovery of this
new source should prove of considerable com-
mercial value. At present the Kew authorities
have no information as to the quantity of seeds
likely to be available.
The Dean Hole Memorial Medal. — It is with
considerable pleasure we leani that the National
Rose Society, at the annual meeting held on
Thursday of last week, conferred the Dean Hole
Memorial Medal on Mr. C. E. Shea of Foot's Cray,
Kent, whose portrait we publish on this page.
On two separate occasions Mr. Shea has acted as
president of the society, viz., diuring 1905-6 and
1913— r4. His services in the interests of the Rose
and the National Society have extended over a
very long period, and his genial and courteous
manner has made him one of the best loved and
mosthighlyesteemedmenin the hort cultural world.
The Dean Hole Memorial Medal is the highest
honour that the National Rose Society can confer,
and everyone who is privileged to know Mr. Shea
will agree that he thoroughly deserves this
distinction.
Planting Trees and Shrubs. — Although Novem-
ber is undoubtedly the best month of the whole
year for planting practically all kinds of deciduous
trees and shrubs, including fruit trees, it does not
follow that they cannot be successfully planted at
any other time. Providing the weather keeps
open and the soil is in fairly good working con-
dition, such trees and shrubs can be safely and
successfully planted at any time from early
November until March. We mention this now
because, during recent years, so many lecturers
and other horticultural instructors have emphasised
the desirability of November planting, with the
result that many amateurs have erroneously come
MR. C. E. SHEA, WHO RECEIVED THE DEAN
HOLE MEMORIAL MEDAL FROM THE
NATIONAL ROSE SOCIETY LAST WEEK.
to regard it as the only planting-time. The same
remarks apply to nearly all kinds of hardy
herbaceous plants, hence those who wish to plant
from now onwards need not refrain from doing so.
Fresh Mint for Winter Use. — Th s is always
preferred to dried Mint, but seldom during the
winter and early spring months is the supply of
this useful herb equal to the demand. Pieces of
roots should now be lifted, put in shallow boxes
of soil, and placed in a little warmth. If this is
continued at intervals, a good supply will be
maintained ; or if a frame is placed over the bed,
it will give a good quantity before the Mint in the
open ground is ready.
Fruit for Christmas. — Notwithstanding the
war, there is likely to be an abundance of nearly all
kinds of fruit for Christmas, with the exception
of dried Dates and Figs and crystallised fruit.
Covent Garden supplies are excellent, and owing
to the fact that they cannot be shipped to Germany
or Austria, Pineapples and Bananas will probably
be cheaper than for some years past. Pineapples
have never been of better quality. Nuts, too,
are plentiful, the much sought after Brazils beinf;
cheaper than for some years past.
Pyracantha angustifolia for Winter Beauty.—
When this plant was originally introduced under
the name of Cotoneaster angustifolia, it was
usually planted as a shrub in the open, and rarely
with satisfactory results. On one or two occasions,
however, fruiting specimens were sent from France
to this country, and such was their beauty that
cultivators were stimulated to fresh efforts in their
endeavour to find the conditions suitable for its
culture. This object has now been attained,
and as a wall shrub it promises to become as useful
as its older relative the Pyracantha of gardens,
P. coccinea, or Crataegus Pyracantha as it is also
called. P. angustifolia grows at least 12 feet
high and bears narrow, oblong, evergreen leaves
up to 2 inches long and one-third of an inch or
more wide, the flowers being white and followed
by a profusion of orange-coloured berries, which
ripsn in October. It is a native of Western China,
and was introduced to this country by Lieutenant
Jones fifteen years ago. It should be planted in
rather light and well-drained loamy soil at the
foot of a south, west or east wall, and in such a
position it may be expected to provide a very
cheerful picture from October to January or later.
As it is less hardy than the common Pyracantha,
it should not be planted in places where the last-
named shrub is known to be a failure.
Rosa spinosissima (Scotch or Burnet Rose). —
Last summer we had the pleasure of finding this
growing wild on a conmion not far from Worthing,
where on a dry, poor and gravelly soil ming-
ling with Heather, wild Sage and the rapidly
oncoming Bracken, it, though brought into
subjection, constituted a very pretty picture in
satiny white. Reduced by circumstances into
comparative dwarfness — it was often of less than a
foot high and rarely more than 18 inches — it
was still suggestive of good use, and we pictured
it in the rock garden similarly starved to produce
a like effect.
604
THE GARDEN.
[December 19, 11114
CORRESPONDENCE.
(The Edilnr is not responsible for I he opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
Late-Blooming Roses and Oriental Lilies in
Soutli-Western Scotland.— The Rev. David R.
Williamson writes us as follows from Kirk-
raaiden Manse, Wigtownshire, on December 7 :
" Roses have flowered very late in my garden
this year. Conspicuous among these have been
Viscountess Folkestone, notable alike for its free-
flowering capabilities, its charming pale salmon
pink complexion and its exquisite fragrance — a
Hybrid Tea of inestimable value, at least in my
own estimation, and one that will not be soon
superseded; Bouquet d'Or, perhaps ' the most
precious of all the beautiful daughters of Gloire
de Dijon, a plant of which has adorned a wall
with a northern aspect for at least fifteen years ;
Margaret Dickson, by far the most aspiring Rose
is generally supposed to be a derivative from
Melpomene."
Late-Flowering Kniptiofias. — Wc have had a
bed of the laic -flowering Torch Lily (Kuiphofia
aloides glauccscens) — misnamed maxima in your
note of the 5th inst., page 583 — for about ten years,
and every season in November it is the most
striking plant in the nursery. The rains and night
frosts that bedraggle the Michaelmas Daisies have
no effect on it, and even now it is a fine mass ol
colour, as you will see from the spikes sent you
under separate cover. It should be planted in
masses of a dozen or more, in beds cut in the grass,
and placed so that, when in flower, the heads show
up against some dark evergreen or piece of wood-
land. Then it is extremely effective. It is odd
that it should always flower so late, when there is
no chance of setting seed ; but it makes no show
of spikes before September. We took a special
interest in this family for some years, and raised
a number of very pretty seedlings in which a long-
COPRINUS (AGARICUS) COMATUS. A FUNGUS THAT IS EDIBLE WHE.V YOUNG.
that I possess, and that is saying much; J. B.
Clark ; Captain Hayward, which among crimson
Roses is quite indisp.nsable ; and the supremely
attractive Pharisiitr. The variety last mentioned,
I may incidentally mention, particularly attracted
the attention and elicited the aeimiration of the
Countess of Stair when she v. sited my garden a few
years ago ; and subsequently, at my suggestion,
her ladyship (who is an assiduous amateur horti-
culturist) added this highly effective variety
to her interesting collection at Lochinch Castle,
where she also cultivates with marvellous success
in her shady wild garden almost all the leading
species of Oriental Lilies, especially the Himalayan
L hum giganteum and L. auratum platyphyllum.
I may perhaps be permitted to add that a fine
specimen of L. speciosum magnificum was flower-
ing in my garden this season ;.t the end of
November, the latest I have ever seen i , at
least in this region. This grand variety, which
grows admirably in ordinary garden loam,
flowering habit is secured. Perhaps Gold Else and
Torchlight are the best known. These flower more
or less continuous'y Tight through the summer and
autumn, and both are extremely pretty feir cutting
in October, when there is very little else of this
colour in the garden. Two Octobcr-fl;
a steeply sloping wooded bank above the rnr
Vyrnwy. Cturiously, they come only in one place —
a strip down the bank about ten yards wide
and perhaps twice as long. I have not found
even isolated specimens elsewhere, though there
are stretches of similar bank along the course
of the river. It happens that down this par-
ticular strip of the bank were cast, in the spring
of 1912, many loads of limestone rock for use on
the river bank. Can this have caused the growth
of A. comatus ? I do not think they appeared
previously, but cannot be certain, as we were
not here till towards the end of November, igii,
and people whose interest has not been aroused
do not notice such things. The soil is of the
poorest, the timber chiefly Oak. The profusion
of the crop is such that every two or three days
while they last we can gather a dish of six or
eight. I enclose a photograph of one of th's
year's groups — not nearly so fine as last year's,
however, when we gathered many of which the
pileus was over four inches in length, and some,
I should think, nearly six inches. Is anything
known of the conditions necessary to the growth
of ths fungus ? — C. H. Cumberland, Plds
Der-wen, Llansantffraid, Montgomeryshire. [We
have submitted the above to our scientific expert,
who WTites as follows : " Agaricus comatus is
the old name. It is now Coprlnus comatus.
Only quite young specimens should be eaten e)r
used for making ketchup," — Ed.1
Banksian Roses : How to Make Them
Flower. — In reading The Gardes' fnr Decemhtr 5.
page 5SS, respecting Banksian Roses, I thought
I would write to tell you that in my father's
old rectory garden at Bonningtou, Kent, wc
had a very old Yellow Banksian Rose tree which
grew all over the south porch. In all the forty
years he was there this old tree blossomed pro-
fusely, and I think 1 am right in saying that it
never was properly pruned, its roots were never
dug and never manured in all that time, and it
grew in the coldest of cold clay soil. — .Alice S.
Rolfe.
It may interest your correspondent " A. B,
Essex " to know there is a white Banksian Reise
here which flowers profusely every year. It
was planted nearly a hundred years ago by my
uncle. It certainly carries out the theory that
these Roses flower best when they receive little
or no attention. This tree is planted in the grass
close to the south wall of the house, not even in
a flower border. Its roots must go under a gravi 1
path and the lawn, as there are no flower-bcels
near. It covers most of the side of that wing,
and is never touched, except to cut bacU
shoots which grow too long and tie them in.
We planted another Banksian Rose two or
three years ago on a south wall in the kitchen
garden ; but the soil there is evidently too gooel,
for though it has grown most luxuriantly
and reaches to the top of the wall, it only
has two or three trusses of flowers each sum-
mer. I must add that our soil here is very
stiff clay, and we are about a mile from thi'
sea. — Marv C. Bond, Tynehtiin. Corfe Castle.
Dorset.
I see a request in The Garden for ex
periences with Banksian Roses. I have U\"
December 19, 1914.
THE GARDEN.
605
comnaon ones, a yellow and a white. The white
faces south and the yellow east. The white was
a sheet of blossom this year, the yellow flowered
fairly well; but, then, this year was marked
by great floriferousness. However, by pruning
regularly after they have flowered, they do suffi-
ciently well in ordinary years. I have the old
wood taken out. That may be wrong, possibly,
if one wants flowers, but room must be made for
the young wood. Twice when I ordered the
common Banksiau Rose I was sent Fortune's
Yellow, I did not care for it. It is a shy bloomer,
and drops many of the few buds it makes. But
whereas a south wall is necessary to get the best
results from the common Banksiau, I found
Fortune's Yellow did better on a north wall.
It might be worth while to try growing it up a
tree. — F. G. Dutton, Bibury Vicarage, Fairford,
near Cirencester.
My experience leads me to the conolusion
that to get Banksian Roses to flower well, it is
best to let them run practically wild. I have
seen them growing very well indeed in various
aspects — north, south, south-west and east — ■
somewhat protected in the last named ; but on
very poor soil and in a very confined corner of a
shrubbery close to the house, about a foot from
the gravel drive, they flowered most profusely.
In the other aspects named they had plenty of
root room. Quite open in other respects (as they
were planted on houses with the lawns in front
of them), they were kept well trimmed, but gave
very few flowers indeed ; in fact, one on the
north aspect did not have any flowers, I might
say that those planted on the south and south-
west aspects (both the white and yellow) I did
not have charge of, but I was there as under-
gardeuer for ten years and noticed them with very
few flowers. The north and east aspects were
in Sussex, the south and south-west in Surrey
(at Dorking). — E. Tring,
Christmas Decorations : Some Suggestions.—
For the table : Red and yellow Tulips or Chry-
santhemums in little black enamelled baskets
for Belgian colours. Red and white Tulips,
Hyacinths or Chrysanthemums and Violets, for
English, French and Russian colours. A quaint
and unconventional table centre, easily " kept
going " all through Christmas-time, can be made
with a tin or tray as foundation. On this crumple
up irregularly some coarse-meshed wire-netting,
leaving several depressions. Cover all with fresh
moss and trails of Ivy, and in hidden receptacles
containing water place Holly, Mistletoe, flowers,
seedling Ferns, &c. In the centre sink a tiny
oil lamp or " fairy light " to shine through the
flowers and foliage. Border the whole with a
garland of fine Ivy trails and (do not laugh !) frost
over all with a sprinkling of coarse Epsom salts.
For Christmas pictures from the illustrated
Christmas numbers, an artistic border is quickly
and easily made by tacking dried brown Oak
leaves slightly overlapping each other on half-
inch wide strips of brown paper. These have the
effect of leather-work or carved Oak frames,
Alwaj's carry each stitch across the midrib of
the leaves, laying the tip of one leaf over the stalk
of the preceding one and stitching both together.
One stitch to each leaf is generally enough. For
bare wall spaces, an effective trellis can be made
by wiring trails of Ivy, interspersed with other
evergreens. This is very ornamental for covering
bare or unsightly walls, and is useful for decorating
halls and schoolrooms for Christmas entertain-
ments.— Anne Amateur,
MR. E. MAWLEY AND THE
NATIONAL ROSE SOCIETY.
IT was with very deep regret tliat the membars
of the National Rose Society learned,
at the annual general meeting held in
London on Thursday of last week, that
Mr, E, Mawley, V,M,H,, had felt com-
pelled to relinquish the office of hon.
secretary. This regret, however, was somewhat
tempered by the enthusiastic election of Mr,
Mawley as president for the ensuing year.
His association with Roses and the National
Rose Society dates back a very long way. It
was about the year 1875 that he first commenced
to grow Roses at Croydon, and in 1877 he became
co-hon, secretary of the National Rose Society
with the late Rev, H, D'ombrain. When that
esteemed rosarian died in 1905, Mr. Mawley
took over the full duties of hon, secretary. He
MR, E, MAWLEY, V,M,H., FOR MANY
YEARS HON, SECRETARY OF THE
NATIONAL ROSE SOCIETY AND NOW
PRESIDENT.
has endeared himself to all those who have had
the privilege of meeting him since his official
association with the National Rose Society, and
has had the satisfaction of seeing it grow from
a small association into the largest special flori-
cultural society in the world.
In his younger days he was a very keen exhibitor
at the society's shows, and so successful was he
in taking prizes in the smaller classes that his
friends used to affectionately refer to him as
the " champion of lightweights." In 1885 Mr,
Mawley moved from Croydon to Berkhamsted,
a town that has bsen privileged to number him
among its residents ever since. As an appreciation
of his services to the National Rose Society the
members unanimously bestowed upon him, in
1910, the Dean Hole medal, a special distinction
which is awarded from time to time as occasion
may arise.
In the past he has also been a very active worker
on behalf of the National Dahlia Society, and for
several years was its president. Meteorology also
claimed Mr. Mawley's attention, and for thirty
years he was a member of the Council of the Royal
Meteorological Society, and for two years secretary,
ultimately becoming its president in 1904. The
Council of the Royal Horticultural Society, in
recognition of his services to horticulture
generally, conferred upon him the Victoria Medal
of Honour in Hort icullure in 1904. Just what the
National Rose Soci ety owes to liim perhaps will
never be Icnown ; but we feel sure that everyone
who is interested in Roses will regret that he has
bsen reluctantly compelled to relinquish the
hon, secretaryship, and will join with us in wishing
him many years of further activity and enjoyment
of the flower he loves so well.
ROSES IN YORKSHIRE.
(Continued from page 597.)
WHEN we look round at the many
beautiful varieties of yellow'
and orange toned Roses our
gardens contain to-day, it seems
almost impossible to realise
that only five years ago many.
of the best of these were not in existence. Duchess
of Wellington, Mabel Drew, Mme. Charles Lutaud,
Mrs. C. E. Allan, Lady Hillingdon, Mrs. Sam Ross,
Lady Downe, Lady Greenall,. iCissie Easlea and'
Sunburst, to name only a few, have all appeared
since 1909. Six of the above I have only just
planted, and am therefore unable to speak from
practical experience ; but I am confident that
many of them will do well, and impatiently await
their development next summer.
The yellow par excellence with me the last two
years has been Duchess of Wellington, a fine,
free grower that produces blooms in abundance
of a charming yellow, splashed here and there with
red, more especially in the bud state. Although
this Rose is composed of very many p;tals, it
has opened well, thus proving the exception to
the rule of the Rose with few petals as the Rose
for this vicinity ; moreover, the blooms are held
on fine, stiff stems and are deliciously fragrant.
It is quite free from mildew, I cut a bloom on
November 28, and still there were buds to develop
if the weather chances to bs kind to them.
Next comes Mme, Ravary, one of the hardiest
and best of any colour or variety ; a very free
bloomer that produces lovely golden buds, develop-
ing in the half-open state to deep apricot. When
fully expanded it pales off rather too soon, but is
in every way a most excellent Rose. Sunburst
is rapidly becoming a favourite and, except for
its extrenie variableness of colour, is a good doer
here, Harry Kirk, one of the finest of the pure
sulphur yellows, is indispensable in this section
for its decorative value, and it may be planted
here with confidence, Mrs, David McKee, a
fine Rose of a beautiful creamy yellow shade,
produces freely blooms of an immense size and
pleasing shape ; it is in flower here throughout
the season. It is vigorous, decorative, fragrant
and gives one blooms fit for exhibition.
Among the coppery tones, the bsst with me
have baen Edu Meyer, a rather poor grower,
but an abundant bloomer, and, moreover, the
flowers last a very long time when fully expanded
on the plants, continually providing a pleasing
touch of colour in its own particular bed all the
season ; and Betty, to which I referred in my first
606
THE GARDEN.
[December 19, 1914-
article. This is one of the indispensable decorative
Roses, and belongs to the first dozen every amateur
should order when he embarks upon the culti-
vation of the Rose. Its colour is made up of
beautiful tones in copper, shaded golden. It is
very vigorous, an excellent bedder, and has the
added charm of fragrance.
It would be unpardonable to put Frau Karl
Druschki anjTvhere else than at the top of the
list in the white class. It has so many virtues
and only one fault, in that it is absolutely without
perfume. This is such a disappointment, because
its wonderful size and shape and spotless purity
of petal all make it so attractive for all purposes.
It appears in the exhibition box, I suppose, more
often than any other variety of any class or colour.
It is a very free grower here, and is, happily,
not seriously affected by wind and wet. One of
mv few standards is of this Rose, set in the centre
tints, however, but like it none the less for that.
It produces large quantities of most decorative
Roses, which last well on the tree, and is another
variety always in bloom.
Juliet here is a Rose that is distinct and novel
in both colour and growth ; outside of petals old
gold, inside vermilion. Growth is extremely
vigorous. I confess I planted this with some
hesitation ; so many people like myself, amateurs,
i complained of being dissatisfied with the results.
However, I pegged do^vn the three long growths
of which the plant consisted, and took about
eight inches off the end of each when pruning.
Judge of my surprised delight when I perceived
buds in abundance coming along the entire length
of each branch, and I had eventually no fewer
than thirty-three Roses out or partially out in
bloom at one time, and the effect in the centre
of an oblong bed was most pleasing. The buds are
to the numbers of those that do well. My leisure
time is extremely limited, and I am only able
to indulge my love of Roses by leaving everything
else in the garcfen to the tender mercies of a jobbing
gardener.
Among the unsuccessftil Rose-growers we find
a great proportion of those who refer to planting
Roses as " sticking them in." The man who
" sticks " Roses in will never succeed in producing
fine blooms, nor does he deserve to do so.
It is just that extra trouble and extra barrow of
leaf-mould to sprinkle over the fibrous roots
when planting, and the plunging of the dried roots
and growths into tepid water, seemingly unim-
portant details, which are great factors to the
Rose tree, likewise the subsequent pruning and
attention to various pests, &c. Finally, I believe
most emphatically in the value of liquid manure
for Roses, from the bud stage onwards. A generous
supply after heavy rain goes far
towards maintaining colour in
the blooms. E. Waters.
Roundhay, near Leeds.
THE SMOKE PLANT
(RHUS COTINUS).
During the autumn months
there are few more attractive
hardy shrubs than the Smoke
Plant (Rhus Cotinus). At that
season the feathery inflorescences
impart to the shrub a very
peculiar appearance that, at a
distance, looks somewhat like a
cloud of smoke, this effect being
well showTi in the accompanying
illustration. Although intro-
duced to this country as long ago
as 1656, one does not often find
this shrub in gardens, a fact that
is rather difficult to understand.
It is perfectly hardy and will
thrive in almost any soil, but, as it
makes rampant growth, it should
be planted where plenty of space
is available. According to Nichol-
son, the preparation known as
Young Fustic is obtained from
this Rhus, which, in some dis-
tricts, is kno%vn as the Yellow
Dve-wood.
THE SMOKE PLANT (RHUS CuTINUS) IN
AUTUiMN. THIS
ANY SOIL.
HARDY SHRUB WILL THRIVE IN ALMOST
of a bed of Gloire de Chedane Guinoisseau, which
has given to it a perfect finish.
British Queen I have only had one year, and it
has done well and been continuously in bloom.
The flowers are of fine size and very fragrant.
I must admit that I had quite a number of blooms
of very bad shape, and it has been rather badly
affected with mildew ; further, it is whispered
that the best results from British Queen are forth-
coming from maiden plants. If that is so, it will
with me have to give place to Mrs. Herbert Stevens,
which up to now I have not grown, but find it
does very well in my district, and I have planted
it this autumn.
Viscountess Folkestone is, of course, not a white,
but does so well with me that I mention it here
as a Rose that is reliable in a Northern climate.
Some of the catalogues describe it as "creamy
pink, shaded salmon." I get none of the salmon
vigorous and nearly as large as Walnuts. When
open it is a large, full Rose of powerful and
delicious fragrance. I find that many amateurs
allow this to grow tall, and consequently get only
four or five blooms during the season. It is a
Rose that wants plenty of room, and its only fault
is a tendency to mildew on the thorns and nowhere
else. The foliage is clean.
I find that Dorothy Perkins and its white sport,
also Hiawatha, Excelsa, Alberic Barbier and
Tausendschon, are reliable and free among the
climbers here. Crimson Rambler is an absolute
failure so far as growth is concerned, and I am
gradually replacing it with Excelsa.
In conclusion, as a man of Kent living in York-
shire, I would say that, so far from being dis-
appointed with my experiences in the cultivation
of Roses, I am keener than ever to go on, profiting
by mistakes in the selection of varieties and adding
SHRUBBERY BORDERS
IN WINTER.
These are~rarely treated as they should be in
autumn and winter time. Shrubberies are to a
dwelling-house what frames are to pictures, in a
sense, only they are of much more importance.
There is a very economical way of feeding the
shrubs without using any ordinary manures.
Where there are trees of a deciduous character
in a garden, the leaves from them get blown on to
the shrubbery borders, and in nearly every instance
the leaves are raked off and taken to a common
rubbish-heap, and the surface soil among the
shrubs dug up. In the case of old shrubberies
this is wrong treatment. The digging makes the
shrubbery look neat and well cared for, but it is
at the expense of the welfare of the shrubs, as
all their siffface roots are destroyed and the others
are not enriched. In the case of young shrubs,
where there is ample space between them not
occupied by roots, the digging will have a beneficial
December 19, I9i4.]
THE GARDEN.
607
effect. In dealing with other slirubberies, the
leaves collected among the steins of the shrubs
should be picked out, all hollows fiUed with the
leaves, and the latter covered with a thin layer
of soil from another part of the garden. No
more work than the digging of the border will
be entailed, the shrubbery will present a very
neat appearance, and tlie shrubs will greatly
benefit, as their roots will enter the mulch and
form a network. The soil put on prevents the
birds and wind disturbing the dry leaves, and
also assists in the process of decay. Where the
leaves are too numerous, the sur-
plus can be used for forming leaf-
mould. Avon.
Feeding at tliis stage is not necessary ; the rotted
manure in tire bottom of tlte pots affords the plants
all the sustenance they need, They may b3 re-
tained in the frame all the winter, but I prefer to
place them on a shelf in a greenhouse about i foot
or 15 inches from the roof glass, and where air can
reach them in abundance during fine weatlier.
Late in November the plants have attained a
height of 7 inches ; they are not staked or kept
in an upright position, but allowed to depend from
the sides of the pots towards the light. When
left in this way, strong basal shoots soon begin
FLOWERS FOR CHRISTMAS
DECORATION.
A'
THE MAIDENHAIR TREE
(Ginkgo biloba.)
Although a well-grown specimen
of this tree never fails to elicit
admiration from anyone interested
in gardening, it is seldom that we
see young trees planted. It is true
that they are rather slow-growing,
but the same may be said of a good
many others that are much more
frequently planted, although not so
beautiful in appearance. The
IVIaidenhair Tree is quite hardy in
the Southern and Western Counties
of Great Britam, where it will
thrive in almost any good garden
soil. In France trees that have
attained .a good size and age pro-
duce fruits fairly regularly, but it
is not often that these are borne in
th;s country. It is a coniferous tree,
though deciduous, and one of the
oldest in existence, remains hav-
ing, I believe, been found in coal
measures in some parts of the
world. It was introduced to this
coimtry from Northern China in
1754, and is often known under its
old botanical name of Salisburia
adiantifolia. Its garden name is
derived from the resemblance of
the leaves to the pinnae of some of
the larger Adiantums or Maiden-
hair Ferns. G. B. D.
SWEET PEAS IN POTS.
Finer and earlier blooms are
secured from plants grown in pots
during the winter months than
from those raised in spring. Such
has been my experience. Of course,
other cultivators may not agree,
yet I think many will. I depend
entirely on the basal shoots that grow on the
young plants for the finest flowers, and tliese basal
shoots should be encouraged to grow strongly
from the latter part of December onwards. The
seeds are sown in September or, at the latest, before
the middle of October. Two seeds are suflicient
for a 3i-inch pot, and one seed for a 3-inch
pot. Good fibrous loam is used, with equal parts
of leaf-soil and well-rotted manure placed in the
bottom of the pots. Crocks are not needed if
the pots are placed on ashes or boards. The pots
are placed in a cold frame, the soil kept in a
uniformly moist condition, and, when the young
plants appear, air is admitted in abundance and
the plants exposed to full sunshine.
THE MAIDENHAIR TREE (GINKGO BILOBA) AT KEW
to grow as stated. If grown in borders under
glass, the soil is deeply broken up and some well-
rotted manure mixed with it. If grown in large
pots, these are filled with fibrous loam, a small
quantity of leaf-soil and some rotted manure. In
such mixtures the plants grow steadily and sturdily,
and rarely cast their first flower-buds. Other kinds
of stimulants are not given until the plants com-
mence to flower, as I believe it to be a mistake to
force growth in the depth of winter. Plants
intended for the op;n borders should be replaced
in the cold frames early in February, and be well
hardened before they are put out in April.
The plants must not be subjected to high
temperatures nor to frost. G. G.
.THOUGH Holly, iMistletoe, Laurel and
other evergreen shrubs still play an
important part in our Christmas
decorations, there is a rapidly increas-
ing tendency to incorporate with these
the numerous flowers that are now
available at this season. Improved methods of
cultivation and the introducing or raising of new
types of plants that naturally
flower during the winter months
have, no doubt, had a great deal
to do with this change. This year,
owing to the exceptionally mild
weather, there should be an abun-
dance of most greenhouse winter-
flowering plants, because strong
artificial heat has not been neces-
sary. Even in the outdoor garden
such flowers as Christmas Roses,
Irises stylosa and reticulata. Snow-
drops, Wallflowers, Violets, Daisies,
and possibly a few Roses wiU be
available for cutting at Christmas ;
but it is on the indoor kinds that
we must rely for sufficient to create
really good effects. As cut flowers
there are few kinds to equal the
Perpetual - flowering Carnations.
,,:;■ .About twelve or fifteen years ago
these were only to be found in a
few gardens ; now they are grown
in startlingly large quantities for
market purposes, and there are few
private gardens in which a collec-
tion cannot be found. As they are
to be had in several shades of pink,
crimson, scarlet and white, they
lend themselves well to nearly all
kinds of decoration, and look par-
ticularly charming under artificial
light. Chrysanthemums, especially
the small double varieties and the
singles, are becoming increasingly
popular. There are now some de-
lightful shades of bronze, yellow,
crimson, pink and pure white, and
nearly all mix well witli e%'ergreens
where a bold effect is desired. For
tilling large vases or pitchers for
standing in the corners of halls or
corridors, the large-flowered Chry-
santhemums are very useful, and
they can be obtained in a sufficiently
wide range of colours to suit almost
any scheme. Violets, Paper- White
Narcissi, Scarlet Due Van Thol
longiflorum. Arum Lilies and
Lilium
Tulips
Poinsettias are other kinds which are grown in
quantity in most good gardens, and which will
also be obtainable in the market should it be found
necessary to purchase them.
Of pot plants there are some very delightful
kinds to select from. Perhaps the most charming
and useful of all is the dainty pink-flowered Begonia
Gloire de Lorraine. This can be had in many
sizes, from a tiny plant a few inches high to a
floral pyramid that measures nearly two feet from
base to summit, as well as in baskets that are suit-
able for hanging in almost any position that may
be necessary. This Begonia looks exceptionally
well under artificial light, and may be effectivelv
608
THE GARDEN.
[December 19, i9i4-
used for table decorations in conjunction with
pink Carnations. There is also a white-flowered
form of it, and this contrasts well with scarlet
Carnations or Tulips. Although Christmas is a
little early for Cyclamen, there is certain to be a
fair quantity this year, owing to the exceptionally
mild weather. The flowers of pure wltite and
shades of pink can be used in a cut state if desired,
though I think they always look better on the
plants. Greenhouse Heaths of several kinds are
always welcome for decorating large tables. Erica
hyemalis is a rather tall, erect plant with tubular-
shaped pink and white flowers, but E. gracilis is
usually the most popular, owing to its closer
resemblance to the Heather of tlie moors. It is
grown for market in little pots,
where it forms a veritable bush of
fragrant flowers. Larger sizes are
also grown, but it is the small
specimens that seem to be most
appreciated. H. H.
are similar in shape to those of the herbaceous
kind, but smaller and of more silky texture. In
addition to the golden-flowered type there is a
beautiful white . variety named Snow Queen ;
but this, however, does not, in most gardens,
flower so lavishly as its prototype. Young plants
of the Tree Lupine frequently grow from self-
sown seed, and if they survive the first two winters
it is rarely that they are sufficiently injured by
frost as to be kiUcd outright, at least in the Southern
and Western Counties of England.
The annual Lupines are of comparatively small
stature, and give us flowers in late summer and
early autumn, when the more stately lands have
finished their first display. They can b; had in a
been raised, and it would appear as though the Red
Valerian was about to regain some at least of its
former popularity. In the Round Tower Gardens
at Windsor Castle this Valerian has in several plact s
established itself in the retaining walls, the plants
forming imposing tufts of leaf and stem that in June
are transformed into masses of the rose red flowers.
SEASONABLE NOTES
VEGETABLES.
ON
THE LUPINES.
DURING the late spring
, and summer months,
I when the whole gar-
' den is a blaze of
bizarre colours, the
modest charms of
the various kinds of Lupines are
sure of a universal and cordial
welcome. Their stately spikes of
blue and white flowers form pyra-
mids of these quiet hues in large
and small gardens alike, and even
under the trying conditions of town
life, while their Palm-like foliage
is ever a source of wonder to
children and soothing to those
who have long since passed the
happy days of childhood.
The ordinary form of the her-
baceous Lupine known as Lupinus
polyphyllus has been grown in our
gardens almost from time imme-
morial, yet it is still one of the best
and most generous hardy plants
that we have. Its flowers are a
mixture of porcelain blue and
white, a combination that is not
too common among our hardy
flowers. There is now a variety
with pure white flowers which is
useful under some conditions ; and
during recent years hybridists have
raised a number of sorts with
flowers of old rose or dull pink
colour, so that with these plants alone a varied
display can be obtained in late spring and early
summer, and again in the autumn. To secure
flowers at the last-named season, however, it is
necessary to cut down the plants almost level with
the soil as soon as the first display is over, and
subsequently give them a rather heavy mulching
with manure and generous supplies of water.
Of quite different habit is the so-called Tree
Lupme, Lupinus arboreus. This is an ideal
plant for growing in rather poor soil, as this semi-
starvation tends to harden the shoots, which are
thus able to withstand the frosts of winter. It
forms a bush from 5 feet to 8 feet high, and during
early summer is transformed into a cone-shaped
mass of brilliant gold. The leaves of this Lupine
THE HERBACEOUS LUPINE (LUPINUS POLYPHYLLUS). THIS IS ONE
OF OUR BEST HARDY FLOWERS AND MAY BE PLANTED NOW.
variety of colours, and in heiglits ranging from
fi inches to nearly 2 feet. S.
THE RED VALERIAN AS A WALL
PLANT.
Although not usually regarded as a plant suitable
for growing in the crevices of a dry wall, the Red
Valerian, as will be seen in tlie accompanying
illustration, is well adapted for this purpose.
For many years a great favourite in our best
English gardens, this plant was until recently in
danger of dying out, except in a few strictly rural
cottage gardens, where the passing of time makes
but little change. During the last decade, however,
several varieties with brighter-coloured flowers have
Globe Artichokes. — Cut down the old flowering
stems and remove all decaying leaves. Some
protection from frost must be provided in the shape
of freshly gathered leaves, i foot or
so deep, around the stems, covered
with long litter to prevent the
leaves being blown away.
French Beans. — Make a sowing
of five seeds in a 4-inch pot in any
light compost, and place the pots
in a warm house — stove, Cucumber
or forcing house — in a tempera-
ture of not less than 60° by
night. Directly the plants show
above the soil, give them a position
close to the glass in the same house
to prevent the growth being
drawn up weakly. As the pots
become full of roots, transfer the
plants to 7-inch pots, keeping
them low in the pots to enable
the plants later on to- have a
top-dressing of half-decayed horse-
manure and leaf-soil, which
encourages surface roots. Care-
fully water the plants so that they
do not receive too much or too
little. If the former, the roots
become damaged and quickly
induce the leaves to turn yellow.
If, on the other hand, the roots
are kept in too dry a condition,
red spider quickly takes possession
of the leaves, and little progress
is then made. Any good forcing
variety, like Ne Plus Ultra or
Osborne's, answers better at this
time of the year than the larger-
podded sorts.
Broccoli. — To protect the plants
wliuli produce heads later on,
they should be heeled over to
the north by taking out a spit
of soil on that side of the plant,
gradually heeling it over until
it lies almost flat in the
trench. The soil from the north
side of the next plant will be used to cover
the stem of the next, and so on. until the row is
complete. Be sure that the stems are securely
covered with soil, as it is this part of the plant
that suffers by the action of frost, especially if
the growth made during the summer has been gross.
Chicory. — Lift a sufficient number of roots
and place them thickly in deep boxes or beds,
where they are usually induced to grow, and
blanch for salads. .A,ny warm, moist position
will suffice, and blanching is easily done by covering
the plants with inverted pots.
Seakale. — Continue to place roots in the blanch-
ing quarters to maintain a regular supply of this.
Where a Mushroom-house does not exist, a large
box in the stokehole will suffice ; or a bed under
December 19, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
609
the greenhouse stage, with light exckided, will
•answer well. SufScient moisture at the roots
is necessary to induce quick growth, or the Seakale
will be tough instead of being succulent as it should
■be. Freshly gathered leaves answer well for
blanching, as they withliold the moisture and
thoroughly exclude light and air.
Potatoes. — Early varieties should be placed
in sprouting boxes in a cool, frost-proof shed,
■where they will be ready for the first plantings
in frames or pots in the New Year. Indeed,
this is a much better way of keeping all the first
and second early tubers than in heaps, where they
are liable to push into growth, whereby the tubers
are weakened. The first shoot on a Potato,
properly prepared, is undoubtedly the most
■essential to success. I am afraid the preparation
•of the seed Potatoes is a phase in the garden
much neglected or, perhaps, in some
quarters, little understood. It is
common practice to sort out the
seed tubers at digging-time, throw
them in a heap in a shed, cellar, or
clanip in the open, and forget all
about them until they are required
next year.
Herbs such as Mint, which die
down annual!}', should have the
tops neatly removed, covering the ,
surface of the bed with half-decayed
leaves, 3 inches thick, which not
only protect the roots from severe
frost, but enrich the soil and
encourage vigorous growth next
spring, besides giving to that part
of the garden a tidy appearance.
Parsley in Frames should be well
ventilated on all favourable occasions
to prevent damp affecting the leaves
■or checking the growth, as this is
an indispensable crop at this season
•of the year.
Mustard and Cress may be sown
in small quantities and often to
prevent a break in the supply. In
boxes without a covering of soil is
the most convenient method. When
the seed is covered with soil, the
,grit is difficult to remove by washing.
Swanmore, Hants. E. Molyneu.x.
the tree will be in far superior health, and conse-
quently infinitely more capable of bringing crops
to perfection. The solution ought to be well
brushed into all nooks and crannies of the rough
bark and into the forks with a view to ensuring
the death of lurking insects and, if possible, the
destruction of any eggs that may have been
deposited therein ; but the latter is not readily
achieved^ Whether a caustic wash is being used
through a sprayer or with the aid of a brush, the
operator must guard the hands with gloves, wear
old clothes and a soft, wide-brimmed hat, which
will tend to reduce the probability of the burning
spray blowing back into the face. If it is deemed
imperative that the younger shoots carrying
excellent buds shall be scrubbed, the worker must
exercise particular care to proceed in the same
direction as the buds point, or many will be dis-
Planting. — Tliis important work will be
practically at a standstill from the present
time onwards to the end of January, not
because it cannot be successfully accomplished
at this season, provided the weather is favour-
able, but because the weather is so uncertain
that it is risky to put such tasks in hand.
It is always possible on any day that a
long spell of frost will set in, and it is most
midesirable to have a lot of trees waiting to
be planted ; therefore it is usually wise . to
leave the matter severely alone during the
period mentioned, the trees meanwhile being
heeled in where the roots will remain plump
and moist. With the advent of February
better climatic conditions are likely to prevail,
and the trees can soon be properly placed in
their permanent quarters.
FRUIT NOTES.
Washing and Spraying. — Although
it has been proved to the point
of demonstration that the efficient washing and
spraying of fruit trees during their period of
ivinter rest are advafitageous, there are still
many growers -who will not take the trouble
to practise them. If this only redounded to their
own disadvantage it would not matter a scrap,
but it should be borne in mind that careless or
ignorant cultivators propagate pests for others,
■since the enemies spread from the dirty to the
■clean cultures. No effort ought, therefore, to be
spared to persuade everyone who goes in for
fruit to adopt the best measures of repressing
the many insects by which the plants are attacked.
When the trees are at rest it is easy to thoroughly
scrub the bark to the full accessible height and to
spray the remaining portion of the tree with a
caustic soda wash ; and if this is followed up for two
or three seasons the effect in the appearance of the
bark will be remarkable ; and not only that, but
THE RED VALERIAN (CENTRANTHUS RUBER) AS A WALL PLANT. IT IS E.KCELLENT FOR GROWING
IN THIS WAY.
lodged, and thus the remedy will become as bad
as the disease. Properly carried out, this winter
washing is most beneficial, but to be fully effectual
it should be done by all, and not by the few as at
present.
Stakes. — When the weather is dry and frosty
during the winter, and it is not possible to push
on the pruning or to do any land cultivation, a
spare hour should be found to test all the stakes
that are supporting the trees planted last autumn.
Of course, sound, strong supports would have been
utilised at the outset, and probably the ends
tarred or soaked in paraffin to preserve them,
but some will always go, and the more quicldy
they can be removed and new ones put in the
better. When the old stake is out, the fresh one
should be driven down into the original hole so as
to avoid injury to the roots, and, immediately it
is in position, securely attach the stem to it.
Pruning. — As long as the weather remains open,
and during intervals between hard spells or wet,
the pruning should be advanced with all speed.
I would urge the desirability, when once the
foundation of the trees has been properly formed,
of limiting the use of the knife to the removal of
crossing or badly placed branches and the reduc-
tion of unripe tips of the growths. This means,
of course, that the tree will quickly assume its
natural habit, and this is precisely what favours
the finest crops. The severely restricted shape
that has to be adopted in many gardens is by no
means conducive to the finest results, and the
operations connected with it take up valuable
time which might well be more profitably used
in other operations in the garden. Obviously
these remarks are not applicable to trained trees,
but only to those grown as bushes or as standards
in the open quarters. Fruit-grower.
610
THE Gx\RDEN.
[December iq, 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruit Under Glass.
Strawberries in Pots.— If plants were placed in
gentle bottom-heat a month ago, the flower-trusses
will now be beginning to push forward. As
soon as the flowers begin to show colour, the plants
should be removed to a shelf quite close to the
glass in a temperature of 50° at night. These
plants will require increased supplies of water
as the season advances, and the foliage should
be syringed once or twice daily, according to the
weather ; but when the flowers are open, no over-
head syringing need be given. Any plants which
do not promise well may be discarded at once.
Continue to place batches of plants in gentle heat
as it becomes necessar\' to keep up the supply.
Early Permanent Vines. — .•>is soon as the
buds are sufficiently advanced, these Vines should
be carefully tied to 'the trellis. The night tempera-
ture may then be increased to 65° in mild weather,
but on cold nights it is better to allow the tempera-
ture to drop slightly than to keep it up by hard
forcing. Syringe the walls and vacant' parts
of the bed as it becomes necessary, in order to
maintain a moist atmosphere. Disbudding should
be carefully attended to as soon as the growth
is sufficiently advanced to enable the operator
to distinguish which are the most promising shoots.
Midseason Vineries. — Vines in these ought to
be pruned and the houses thoroughly cleansed
as soon as possible. In pruning these Vines a
great deal depends on the variety and the state
of them as to how far each spur should be
cut back, but where space exists the best practice
is to prune to what mav safely be regarded as a
fruiting bud. With voung, healthy Vines two
prominent buds are quite sufficient, as this will
give the cultivator a choice of which may be
the best-placed shoot of the two when the time
arrives for disbudding.
Plants Under Glass.
Cyclamens. — Plants which are showing flower
will benefit by frequent applications of weak
liquid manure. Keep them exposed to the light
and admit air whenever the weather permits.
If aphis is present on the plants, the house should
be carefully fumigated, or the foliage will soon
become deformed. Young seedlings in 2j-inch
pots must be kept quite close to the roof glass
in a temperature of 50° by night, in order to promote
clean, healthy growth. As soon as these plants
are large enough, they should be potted into
3-inch pots, which must be quite clean and care-
fully crocked.
Chinese Primulas. — Plants which are in flower
should be given a temperature of 55° with a rather
dry atmosphere. These are greatly valued at
this season for their bright and varied colours,
as well as for their pleasant perfume. Young
plants for succession should be kept quite near
the glass, and if the pots are well furnished with
roots, a sprinkling of artificial manure may be
given with advantage.
Poinsettias. — The most forward plants should
now be gradually hardened by their removal
to^a drier atmosphere with a temperature of
60°, in order to prepare the.n for house and church
decoration during the Christmas season. Plants
for succession may still be grown in a higher
temperature, where some stimulant can be applied
several times weekly.
The Flower Garden.
Chrysanthemums.— Plants which are stored in
1 old frames for the purpose of producing cuttings
must be examined frequently, and if slugs are
troublesome, a sprinkling of soot or lime should
be applied to keep them in check.
Pelargoniums.— If space is available, the
most forward of bedding Pelargoniums may be
potted at once. Plants in 3-inch pots ought to
be put in 5-inch pots and placed in a temperature
of 50° quite near the roof glass. Verbenas,
Lobelia and various plants need to be kept growing
all the winter, and where large quantities of
Lobelia are required, propagation should be com-
menced at once, as several batches of cuttings
may be secured from plants propagated now.
All decaying foliage should be removed from
bedding plants as soon as possible, or much
injury may be caused to the stock.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Ground Work.— The past month has been
favourable for the lifting, root-pruning and removal
of all kinds of fruit trees, and this work should
be pushed forward as quickly r.s possible while
the weather is open. In all cases where new
plantations are to be made, the ground ought to
be trenched to the depth of 2 feet, and if stagnant
water is present in the soil, a thorough system of
drainage must be provided.
Raspberries. — If new plantations are contem-
plated, no time should be lost in preparing the
ground for the plants. This must be trenched and
manured, and the plants may be placed in rows
6 feet apart. Later in the season they should
be cut to within a few inches of the ground. Estab-
lished plants ought tO' be freely thinned and
secured to the wires. Lightly fork the ground
and give a surface-dressing of farmyard manure.
The Kitchen Garden.
Turnips which are fully matured should be
lifted and placed in a cool position. A shed
behind a north wall is a very suitable place for
them. A great quantity must not be placed
together, as they arc liable to decay ; protection
from frost is all that is necessary. Later batches
may be left in the ground for some time yet.
and when sharp frost sets in, a covering of some
light material should be placed over the roots
in the bed, where they may be allowed to remain
if not too far advanced.
Potatoes in Store should be carefully examined
during wet weather, and as this work proceeds
the tubers for planting next season ought to be
selected and placed in single layers where light
and air can reach them. This is a very important
matter, as much depends on the selection and
care of seed for next season's crop.
Onions in Store should also be examined
and all decaying bulbs removed. Ventilation
must be freely given. If laid in single layers,
they will keep much better than if large quantities
are placed together.
French Beans. — If a sowing of French Beans
is made now in 7-inch pots, a supply of tender
young pods should be available about' the middle
of February. A temperature of 60° will be neces-
sary. For this sowing The Belfast is one of the
best varieties.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dun.v.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Cauliflowers. — Where opportunity exists for
growing an early supply of Cauliflowers, a small
sowing should now be made of one or other of the
early forcing varieties. The seed may be sown
in shallow boxes and placed in gentle heat, and as
soon as the young plants appear they must be
given a position close to the glass. Guard against
damping, and prick out into boxes as soon as the
young plants are ready.
Asparagus. — To have a supp'y of this fine
vegetable at the ceimmencement of the New Year,
a number of cliunps should be lifted and placed
in the forcing-pit without delay. Care must be
taken, however, that the bottom-heat is not too
violent, otherwise failure is sure to result. Cover
the crowns with about four inches of fine soil,
afterwards giving them a theirough soaking of
tepid water.
Horse Radish. — These roots may now be dug
up and stored among sand or soil for future use.
It will be as well to grade the roots at this time,
selecting the best for use, and the next size should
be stored separately for planting in the spring.
The Flower Garden.
Lily of the Valley.— B^'ds that have been
undisturbed for a number of years will be showing
signs of exhaustion, and the resultant flowers
small and weak in consequence. The present is
a suit.ablc time to make new plantations. The
ground for the new beds should be deeply dug or
trenched, at the same time adding some good
manure. In planting, select the best cro^vns ;
the smaller ones can be planted by themselves in
another part of the garden, where, if liberally-
treated, they will give a useful supply of flowers
later. When planting is completed, the bed should
receive a top-dressing of such material as that
from a spent Mushroom-bed.
Hyacinthus candicans.— Although bulbs of this
are generally regarded as perfectly hardy, still,
where the soil is inclined to be mid and wet, it
will be advisable to lift and stejre them in sand
or soil, where thev will get a more complete
rest. As, however, the bulbs will be soft, they
should not be out of the ground for any lengthened
period. They ought to be replanted not later than
the begmning of March.
Bedding Plants. —From now till February all
bedding plants will require to be carefully attended
to, in order to keep them in a healthy conditioa
during the cold and damp weather. In the case
of Geraniums little or no water will be required,
but, should it be necessary, they must be given
a thorough soaking, which will serve them for
weeks. Other bedding plants must be attended
to sirnilarly. Where only a few stock plants
exist, it may be necessary' to put these into heat
to produce cuttings.
Plants Under Glass.
Begonias. — Winter-flowering Begonias of the
Mrs. Heal and elatior type have been seen in
much better condition lately, possibly on account
of their requirements bee'oming better known.
In the growing season the presence of the tire-
some Begonia mite is a source of great annoyance.
But possibly the resting period is the most critical
stage to get over. When thev pass out of flower
they should be given a position on a shelf in a
warm house and watered very carefully, reducing
the supply as they go to rest. At no time,
however, should they be allowed to become dust
dry.
Lachenalias. — ^These useful greenhouse bulbs
should now claim attention, although many may
have been potted up in the autumn. At the'outse't
they ought to be grown in a cool greenhouse, and,. '
until they have made some growth, little or no
water should be given. These bulbs are very
useful for making up wire baskets to be suspended
from the roof ; indeed, it would seem to be the
most successful way of treating them.
Freesias. — -Although these are not very well
adapted for forcing — indeed, too much heat is
to be avoided — still, some may be hastened into
flower by transferring them to a heated pit. X
vase or two of flowers about the beginning of the
year will be very much appreciated on account
of their delicious fragrance.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Pruning Apricots. — The pruning of these
must proceed on all favourable occasions, bear-
ing in mind that this work should be completed -
by the end of January. The fruit is produced on
the previous year's growths, so that a sufficient
number of these should be retained to furnish
the wall. Older trees, however, are usually
treated on the spur system, and the aim should b'e
to get the spurs back as close to the wall as
possible. Avoid wholesale cutting away of these,
which will more than likely result iti the tree
gumming badly.
Nuts. — .\lthough these 'do not succeed so well
in the Northern Counties as they do in the more
congenial climate of the South,' it is surprising
what a useful crop can be secured with a little
attention. .Although the priming should not be
done much before March, old trees should have
the suckers removed now, as well as a few of the
older branches where they appear cmwded.
Fruit Under Glass.
Young Vines. — Vines that were raised from
eyes put in at the beginning of the year may now
be cut back to within two eyes from the base.
They may still be allowed to rest for a few weeks,
and, should they have been well ripened, there will
not be much danger of them bleeding to any e.xteut.
Should, however, they continue bleeding, the
wound must be dressed with styptic.
John Highgate.
(Head-g.ardener to tlie Marquis of Linlithgow. >
Hopefoun Gardens, South Qnecnsferry, N.B.
December 19, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
611
CULTIVATION AND COL-
LECTION OF MEDICINAL
PLANTS IN ENGLAND.
[The following has been recently published as
Leaflet No. z88 by the Board of Agriculture.]
OTHER MEDICINAL PLANTS.
{Continued from page 602.)
CONSIDERABLE demand will occur
next year, owing to short supply,
for Buckbean leaves, Centaury,
Coltsfoot leaves. Feverfew, Figwort,
Marshmallow leaves and root.
Meadowsweet, Wild Carrot fruits
and Yarrow. These include some of the commonest
British wild plants, but in the ordinary way few
are collected in England except by herbalists, or
by herb gatherers on behalf of a few agents for
wholesale firms.
The herb collector's calUng is a poor one at the
best of times, but there is now every prospect of a
rich harvest for some time to come. His outfit
consists of some old sacks and a " paddle " — a
strong iron spud 10 inches long with a cross foot-
piece and tough 4-foot ash handle. With this a
hard day's work may result in a hundredweight
of Dandelion roots being taken to a middleman for
forwarding to the manufacturer. The latter will '
require more henchmen next year, the medicinal
plants dealt with below bsing now in greater
request than usual, basides Wild Aconite, Bella-
donna, Henbane and Stramonium. Farmers and
landed proprietors might be asked to allow access
to their estates to herb gatherer or local botanist.
Barberry (Berberis vulgaris, L.) : Bark will be
wanted next year. Ordinarily it is worth 40s.
pjr cwt. in the dry state. Home supplies will be
insufficient.
Bittersweet (Solanum Dulcamara, L.) grows
wild in moist, shady situations, and is common in
hedges and tliickets throughout England. There
is only a small demand for the drug, which is
prepared from the smooth, two or three year old
(about a quarter of an inch thick) branches collected
in autumn after the fall of the leaves. The branches
should be dried and cut into pieces about half an
inch long with a chaff-cutter.
Broom (Cytisus scoparius. Link.) : The brush-
like branches contain most alkaloid in winter, but
are also gathered in June for expression of juice.
Buckbean (Menyanthes trifoliata, L.) : Leaves
are generally collected in spring. The plant is a
marsh herb distributed throughout Britain.
Burdock (Arctium Lappa, L.) : The root is still
used.
Centaury (Erythraea Centaurium, .Pers.) is
common in this country, and the dry herb will be
required next year.
Coltsfoot (Tussilago Farfara, L.) : The leaves
retain some reputation as a household remedy.
Plenty are to be had for the trouble of collecting,
the plant abounding on poor, stifi soils. The
leaves are collected in June or July. The flowers,
which appear in spring, are also used to a slight
extent, as well as the root.
Elder (Sambucus nigra, L.) : Flowers will be
needed more than usual. They are plentiful, but
require quick collection and rapid transit if they
are to be used fresh for making Elder flower water.
They can be preserved for future distillation by
mixing them with 10 per cent, of common salt.
Figwort (Scrophularia nodosa, L.) occurs in
moist situations throughout England.
Hemlock (Coniura maculatum, L.) is a biennial
growing wild on the banks of streams, along edges
of fields or in neglected meadows. It is used
chiefly for the expression of Conium juice. It is
collected in June from second-year plants.
Horehound (Marrubium vulgare, L.) grows wild
in this country, but is not common. It might pay
to cultivate next year, as it is in steady demand.
Male Fern (Aspidium Filix-Mas, Sw.) is one of
our commonest indigenous Ferns, growing luxuri-
antly in moist, sheltered situations. Germany
(Harz and Thuringia) supplied all the Male Fern
rhizome or extract used in this country, and any
rhizome collected in tliis country will meet a ready
demand.
Meadow Saffron (Colchicum autumnale, L.) is
abundant in moist meadows in some parts of
England, and will be much wanted. The corms
(or underground "bulbs") should be dug up in
July after the leaves have faded, but they are
found with difficulty, and are hence usually
collected later when in flower.
Meadowsweet (Spiraja Ulmaria, L.) : More than
usual of this herb will need to be gathered.
Mullein (Verbascum Thapsus, L.) : This biennial
plant occurs fairly frequently on roadsides and
waste places in Britain. There will be a good
enquiry for dry leaves.
Red Poppy (Papaver Rhaeas, L.) : The petals
find a steady if limited market. Farmers can
arrange to dehver fresh petals to manufacturers.
Children can gather the petals, placing them in a
linen bag suspended round the neck, leaving both
hands for work, and with a little education are a
positive help in preventing the spread of this corn-
field weed.
Rose petals will be much in demand. Continental
supplies being cut off. They usually realise 3s. to
4s. per lb. when dry, but will now be more valuable
for a time. Any dark red Rose petals are suitable,
and some organisation for collection and drying
could be arranged in Rose propagating centres.
Sweet Flag (Acorus Calamus, L.) can be found
in quantity along the edges of streams and lakes.
The dried rhizome will be readily saleable.
Yarrow (Achillea Millefolium, L.) is one of the
commonest British plants, and the dry flowering
tops are utilised.
Squirting Cucumber and Lactuca virosa are
cultivated in a small way, while Bryony root and
Buckthorn berries are among the wild products in
very limited demand.
Note. — In the ordinary way a few pounds of
dried herb are only disposed of with difficulty,
buyers requiring hundredweights or none. Next
year, however, is likely to be the exception, and
such quantities as can be obtained will be saleable.
In any case it is best to get into touch with a buyer
before commencing to grow or collect medicinal
herbs. The drug grower who has special facilities
for dealing with these should be approached in
the first instance.
the white varieties. Elwes' Snowdrop is also,
fairly well known now, though it might be grown
far more extensively in pots than it is at present.
The Narcissus, which Messrs. Barr send in a
2j-inch pot, is a perfect gem, the large white
hoop, or corona, almost obscuring the narrow and
inconspicuous perianth segments. We cannot
conceive anything more beautiful for tiny pots
at this season. Messrs. Barr write : " We have
much pleasure in sending you blooms of Iris
unguicularis and I. unguicularis alba, also a pot
each of Galanthus Elwesii and Narcissus Bulbo-
codium monophyllum, all from our Taplow
nurseries. Iris unguicularis and its variety,,
also the Galanthus, have come from the open,
the former being cut in bud and opening in our
shop window. The Narcissi have been grown
m a cold frame, where they have been merely
protected from heavy rains to prevent damage
to the blooms. We are siure you will agree that
the pretty little white Hoop-Petticoat makes a
most charming pot plant. The Galanthus and
Narcissi were potted in September."
A Beautiful Crataegus from Maidstone.—
Messrs. G. Bunyard and Co., The Royal Nurseries,
Maidstone, send a fruiting shoot of the beautiful
Thorn named CratiEgus Carriferei. In leaf, flower
and fruit Carri^re's Thorn is one of the most
attractive members of a large family. It is a
hybrid which originated in France, but what are
its parents does not seem very clear. M. Carrifere,
writing in the early eighties, described it as a
seedling from C. mexicana ; the second parent
may be the Cockspur Thorn (C. Crus-galli),
while some authorities are inclined to the belief
that the conspicuous spots on the fruit suggest
C. punctata as one parent. The glistening white
flowers are nearly an inch across, with attractive
pink stamens, borne in flattish corymbs towards
the end of May and during early June. During
autumn, with the lovely tints of the foliage and
the orange red fruits, the tree is a beautiful study
in red and gold. Its most valuable character has
yet to be told, for long after the leaves have fallen
the clusters of richly coloured fruits hang on the
trees into the New Year. For a Thorn the fruits
are large, being three-quarters of an inch in
diameter, hanging in clusters of five to ten or more
fruits. Crataegus Carriferei forms a round-headed
tree 18 feet to 20 feet in height.
THE EDITOR'S TABLE.
Interesting Winter Flowers from Taplow. —
Messrs. Barr and Sons of King Street, Covent
Garden, send from their Taplow nurseries four
interesting and beautiful winter flowers. These
are Iris stylosa (imguicularis) and its white variety,
Galanthus Elwesii and Narcissus Bulbocodium
monophyllum. The Irises are very charming and
too well known to need comment, the beautiful
blue shade of the type appealing to us more than
THE IDEAL CATALOGUE.
SOME SUGGESTIONS FOR NURSERY-
MEN AND SEEDSMEN.
GARDENING literature is plentiful
enough in these days ; but of the
many shapes it takes I do not know
that, for interest, there is any-
thing to beat a good catalogue ;
a specialised catalogue for choice ;
best of all, a Narcissus catalogue. The advertising
columns of The Garden make good readmg —
amusing, instructive and with more human nature
in them than many novels, StUl, I like a good cata-
logue even better ; of the Narcissus for choice, as
I have said. But of the Narcissus, as of other
things, there are catalogues and catalogues. My
own vade mecum is the list issued each autumn by
a much-respected house with which I have dealt
ever so long, and to which all lovers of the flower
owe a great debt — X. and Sons, the well-known
firm of Pimlico (or somewhere). Theirs is indeed
612
THE GARDEN.
[December 19, 1914.
a model catalogue — in short, like Eclipse, it is
easily first, with the rest nowhere. StUl, cata-
logues, like all merely human institutions, are
none of them perfect, not even my vade mecum.
It will have to mend in several details — not many,
but a few — before it can be called perfect. For
one thing, it uses the word " Daffodil " loosely,
without the precision to be expected from such an
authority, though that defect is not my subject
of quarrel with it on this occasion. The matter
in respect of which I now venture to question its
wisdom is its way of appraising the merits of
certain Daffodils and recommending them to
clients ; for if you accept the judgment of this
catalogue as to the merits of certain flowers, you
must come to the conclusion that unless a Daffodil
is more or less expensive, it cannot be a flower
" of the highest quality" ; or, putting it another
way, that all cheap Daffodils are necessarily
second rate. Now, the most perfect flower con-
ceivable, however dear it may be this year as a
seedling, must in a few years become cheap ; that
is, if it is a good " doer," and if it is not, whatever
its other virtues, it comes in, so far, short of the
best. A variety offered this year at £20 per bulb
may, a few years hence, be offered at twenty pence.
When it becomes cheap, therefore, must its merits
be revised, and what is now " highest quality "
be labelled second or third quality ? And is it
credible that among the many varieties of the past
fifty years, which were once expensive, but have
now become cheap, there are so very few first-class
flowers ? Yet that is, I think, the general inference
that must be drawn from the recommendations
made by this catalogue to those who come to it
for information or advice.
I have made an analysis of certain of its lists
and prices. It may not be an absolutely accurate
analysis, but it is as accurate as I can make it,
and will be found quite sufficiently so for purposes
of argument. The catalogue presents two lists.
The first is a list of " New Seedling Daffodils,"
while the second, and much the larger, is " A
General List of Daffochls," containing the less
recent varieties. The " New Seedling Daffodils "
have for myself only a slender interest, being as
much beyond my means as the same number of
hothouse Orchids. Allowing for " errors and
omissions," the number of such seedlings offered is
■seventy-four, of which forty-eight — that is, about
64 per cent. — are recommended as " of the highest
•quality." The prices of these seedlings, of course,
vary ; but the average price per bulb is £6 2S.
The only comment I desire to make upon this list
is that the percentage of " highest quality " is
very high, and that, if it may be accepted as correct,
the evolution of the Narcissus is indeed proceeding
" by leaps and bounds."
Those to whom, as to myself. Providence has
«ent neither poverty nor riches will naturally con-
cern themselves with the " General List of
Daffodils," since it contains varieties more within
range of their purses ; but they will find little
encouragement in its perusal. In tliis list, which,
be it said, contains the choicest survivals of more
than fifty years of sedulous cultivation of the
Daffodil by careful hybridisers, you will find com-
paratively few flowers with the enviable cachet of
four crosses. Of Daffodils proper — that is, flowers
cif the trumpet, incomparabilis, Barrii and Leedsii
sections — there are, in the general list, 287 varieties,
of which thirty-four are recommended as " of the
highest quality " ; that is, about 12 per cent,
of the whole as compared with 6.|. per cent, of
first rates among the seedlings. Still, 12 per cent,
of a total of nearly 300 varieties offers a consider-
able choice to the buyer of modest income. Yes ;
but if you tot up the quotations for the thirty-four
first-rate varieties, you will find the average price
per bulb to be £1 8s. 6d., a price which, I am afraid,
many who love the Daffodil will regard as prohibi-
tive. Glory of Leiden, Van Wavcren's Giant,
Hamlet, Mmc. de Graaff, Victoria, J. B. M. Camm,
Sir Watkin and Katherine Spurrell are not cata-
logued as of the highest quality. And this is a
curious thing ; for on another page in this same
catalogue all these and many other varieties which
are pronounced second rate are " recommended for
exhibition " to " amateurs competing at spring
Bovver shows." Surely it is treating amateurs a
little cavalierly to advise them to compete at spring
shows with second best flowers. It would have
been more candid, and perhaps more land, to tell
amateurs that unless they can command varieties
at an average price of £1 8s. 6d. they had better
leavs the field to those who can.
One cannot he'p speculating what number of
crosses the catalogues of a few years hence will
give to varieties which now cost ten guineas or
twenty guineas p r bulb, but which may then be
had for as many pence. I can remember the time
when Minnie Hume was considered first rate ;
but now that a dozen of her can be had for sixpence,
there is " none so poor to do her honour." I do
not say that Minnie Hume is a flower of the highest
quality, or one of the second highest ; but if this
Daffodil had all the perfections of Challenger
(a flower which I do not myself know, hut of which
it is enough to say that it costs £20 per bulb in the
open market), which of us would have the moral
courage to call a flower first rate that is retailed
at two for a penny ? The old stagers among us
remember quite well the stir Sir Watkin made
when it was discovered wasting its beauty in some
obscure Welsh garden, and how wistfully those of
us with little to earn watched the annual quota-
tion as it descended shilling by shilling to the level
of our means. This flower is as big and handsome
now as it was then, but it is no longer (says my
authority) in the first rank, though it is in the
second, which is more, perhaps, than those who love
the flower have a right to expect, seeing that it
costs only ijd. per bulb, or, extra strong, i^d.
But it is time to point the moral, and the moral
is this — that it is a mistake on the part of Messrs X.
and Sons to docket flowers " first rate " or " second
rate." Why should I be told that certain of the
flowers which give me so much pleasure are only
poor trash after all ? This kind of appraisement,
besides being gratuitous and a trifle officious,
is useless, and may be misleading, which is worse.
For what makes a Daffodil first or second rate ?
Is it large size, for which I value maximus, or
diminutive size, for which I value minimus ? Is
it solidity of substance, for which I value Victoria,
or a certain delicate flimsiness, for which I value
moschatus ? Is it a sharp contrast of crimson
and yellow, as in a fine Barrii, or a confection in
monochrome like Duchess of Westminster ? A
perianth segment shaped like the blade of Barr's
bulb trowel, and intersecting the circumference of
its neighbours like a figure in Euclid, or a segment
starting like the Great Pyramid, from a broad base
and tapering to a point ? It is none of these,
but such a selection and combination of them as
will force you to say, when you look at the flower,
" I would have that Daffodil just as it is, and not
otherwise." But someone else may say — and
possibly, who linows, he may be a judge who
officiates at shows — " I cannot agree with you.
For my taste, the perianth segment is not
sufficiently like the blade of Barr's bulb trowel.
nor has the flower got the red eye, which means
so .much to me ; indeed, now that I come to look
at it, it has no eye at all. Shocking ! Besides,
look at that refractory twist in its segments (which
I like flat and overlapping), to say nothing of the
defective stalk, which, to ray thinking, is one and
three-quarter inches too short." Exactly, most
ably reasoned, O learned judge ! To me the
flower is " of the highest quality," because I would
not have it changed if this could be done to order ;
to you it is third rate for excellent reasons of your
own.
Let us agree, therefore, to give up the
absurd custom of deciding for other people what
they are to like best, and let us, in our catalogues,
if we really wish to be helpful, state the facts,
without exaggeration- in a plain matter-of-fact
way, with no superfluity of " precious " adjectives,
inch as "lovely," "exquisite," "noble," &c.
These are all very well for ecstatic amateurs like
myself ; but in a trade catalogue the use of such
fine phrases is mere puffery to which no firm should
condescend. What we want in a trade catalogue is
a bald inventory (the balder the better) of the points
of the flower ; and the points about wliich I should
myself desire information, if I meditated the
purchase of a new bulb, are these : Classification
of the variety ; colour, texture, shape and size
of bloom ; proportion of parts (e.g., crown rela-
tively to perianth) ; stalk ; foliage ; vigour
of constitution ; reproductiveness (that is, in
crease by offsets, receptiveness of stigma and
fecundity of pollen) ; suitability for specific
purposes (e.g., pot culture, massing, growing in
grass, &c.). This looks a large order, but it is not
really so formidable as it looks. When bulb
merchants in their catalogues supply these particu-
lars (and perhaps a few more which other buyers
may suggest), we shall no longer xequire to be told
whether a variety is " of the highest quality," and
we shall be coming at last within measurable
distance of the perfect catalogue, which may I live
to see. Somerset.
THE MOUNT ETNA GENISTA.
During the scorching hot days of July and .'Vugust,
when many flowering shrubs need a deal of coaxing
to keep them alive, the graceful Mount Etna
Genista (G. setnensis) gives us showers of its golden
blossoms. It is an ideal shrub for hot, sandy soil,
where many other kinds will not thrive, but it
also seems at home in other and widely diverse
situations. Last autumn I noticed some wonder-
ful bushes of it overhanging a placid pool in a
Thames Vallej' garden, and a beautiful picture
they made, the reflection of the slender stems
and golden blossoms in the water adding not a
little to the charm of the surroundings. Although
in a young state the shoots are sparsely clothed
with soft, silky foliage, in older specimens they are
quite devoid of leaves. This, however, is not very
noticeable, as the slender, delicate green shoots
make excellent substitutes. In conimon with others
of the genera, and also its near ally the Cytisus,
this Genista is not easily established, and for that
reason young plants in pots should, if possible,
b: purchased. When full grown a good plant
may be anything from 12 feet to 18 feet in height,
and I know of few shrubs that are more attractive
during autumn, and none that is better adapted
for growing in hot, dry situations. In addition
to the rich golden colour of the small, Pea-shaped
flowers, they emit a rather strong yet pleasant
fragrance, a feature that should commend tlie plant
to many. Trojan.
December 19, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
613
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
Every department of horticulture is represented in The
Garden, and the Editor invites renderfi to ftend in questions
relating to matters upon which ihrii tvi^h cxpni adiuce.
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but lie will not be responsible for their saie return. All
reasonable care, however, will he taken, and ivhere stamps
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As regards photo'jraphs. if pai/ment be desired, the Editor
asks that ths price required for reproduction be plainly staled
It miist be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or oicner of the copyright will be treated with.
The Editor ivill not be responsible for the return of anistie
or literary contributions ivhich he may not be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof m.ust not be taken as evidence that an
article is aeecpted. Publication in The Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.
Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Corent Garden, W.C
TO
ANSWERS
CORRESPONDENTS.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND AnSVfERS.—Tfie Editor endeavours to
make The Gardkn hclpftd to all readers who desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object makes a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and addres''
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for naming should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-wool, and flowering
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher.
FLOWER GARDEN.
PHEASANrS-EYE NARCISSUS {A. B. C, Lanc9).~-l% is
not clear from tliis naine to which variety of JS'arcissus
Pocticus you refer. The double form is prone to so-called
"blindness," and the May-flowering Poeticus— that often
referred to as " Pheasant 's-eye " — is not free flowering under
certain conditions of .shade or in dry soils. The variety
ornatus requires good cultivation, though it rarely fails
wiien the bulbs are of the right size. The other " Daft'odils
which now flower very badly, and have been in their present
situation nine years and are very thick," are obviously
overcrowded and require di\iding, replanting and fresh
soil. You cannot do this now with advantage, and if
done would only further weaken the bulbs and delay their
ultimate recovery. Such work should be done in July, and
as that time is far distant, we suggest you write us in early
June next and we will tell you what is best to do. Mean-
while, assist growth by a mulch of manure and by frequent
watering with liquid manure in spring. If stable manure
is not available, apply Clay's Fertilizer and Wakeley's
Hop Manure to the soil.
ROSE GARDEN.
H^MANTHUS AND ROSE {E. PT.).— The Haemanthus
bulbs should be potted in a mixture of loam, leaf-mould
and sand, and placed in the warmest part of the green-
house. Until growth commences, only sufficient water
should be given to keep the soil slightly moist. You
say nothing about the treatment your plants;have received ;
therefore we cannot decide whether yoiirs have been
rightly treated or not. If your bulbs were freshly im-
ported from South Africa, we see nothing wrong in their
behaving as they have done, for when bulbs are sent
from any part of the world where the seasons are the
reverse of ours, it takes some time for them to fall into
line with those grown in this country. They should
flower in the summer, but freshly imported bulbs are as
erratic in this respect as in their time of starting into
growth. With regard to Rose Juliet, it is the reverse
of being a poor grower, as its strong, upright shoots are
very vigorous. It certainly does not flower with the
same freedom as many others do. As the plant .is
such a strong grower, the planting, or the conditions
under which it is placed, must be at fault, providing always
that the plant referred to was a good, well-rooted one.
Many Roses are advertised so cheaply that it is impossible
to produce satisfactory ones at the price ; hence it is
far better to obtain plants from a reliable source, and,
above all, plant them with as little delay as possible, pro-
viding the ground is in a suitable state ; if not, lay the
roots in soil at once till tlie place is prepared for them.
TREES AND SHRUBS.
PRUNING A SUMACH (G. H. i^r.)._The best time
to cut your Sumach back is February. It may be pruned
fairly severely, but all wounds should be coated with
tar afterwards. The plant will probably produce more
young branches than are actually required to form a
well-furnished specimen. In that ease some should be
removed when a few inches long.
THE GREENHOUSE,
FREESIAS FOR INSPECTION {Q. B.).— We see little
amiss with your Freesias except that the edges of one or
two leaves have got slightly yellow, due, in all probability,
either to a little over-watering or to the exposure of the
phmts to frost for a. time The curiously swollen roots
are quite normal, and are formed by almost all corms for
spi'ciul purposes.
PLANT FOR IDENTIFICATION U. E. 5.).— The name
of the plant from which the leaf was taken is Grevillea
robusta, a native of Australia. From its deeply cut, Fcrn-
Uke foliage it is much grown for various decorative purposes.
It is a very good room plant, but does not possess any
special gas-resisting qualities. With the darker nights
now upon us, you, of course, burn more gas, and conse-
quently the conditions are not so favourable for plant-life as
they were when the days were lighter. The smoke-laden
fogs that arc so often experienced in the neighbourhood
of London cause the leaves of this Grevillea to drop in a
wholesale manner and leave the plant quite bare. It is
quite possible that the young shoots referred to by you as
being just pushed out will continue to grow, and in spring
the plant will be again furnished with its handsome leaves.
In its native country this Grevillea forms a large shrub, so
that it is not likely to flower in a small state like yours ;
indeed, it rarely blooms in this country. In the London
parks, Grevillea robusta may frequently be seen in summer
employed as a dot plant in beds of lower-growing subjects.
We advise you to keep your plant in as light a position as
possible, where it is quite safe from frost. It requires a
moderate quantity of water during the winter ; that is to
say, enough to keep the soil fairly moist, but not saturated.
FRUIT GARDEN.
FRUIT GARDEN {A. B. C, Laucs).~\ou do not say
wliether tlie area is laid out in any form or merely a vacant
plot between walls. If the latter, and assuming that the
walls are not less than 8 feet high — they would be better
at 10 feet or 12 feet — wo should advise 8-feet-wide borders
adjacent thereto for the accommodation of bush fruits
in front of the wall trees. In larger areas bush fruits
frequently intersect the rows of pyramid or standard
trees, whichever is favoured by the planter, and in this
way provide a certain revenue till the others come into
bearing. In your small area we think it best to keep them
apart and grow Strawberries or Potatoes between the
larger trees for the first year or two. You tell us nothing
of the purport of the proposed planting, and unless the
fruit is intended for home consumption, i.e., private use,
we say at once that you arc attempting too much in the
area named. Moreover, it is important to us to know
whether for private or commercial use, because for the
former a long season or succession of fruits is of the highest
importance, and which is less so when fruits are sent to
market. In the absence of such particulars, and because
of the variety required, we imagine the fruits are intended
for home use, and our reply is based thereon, though you
finally enquire whether Damsons would pay to plant.
In so small a space we think not. Of dessert Apples,
Devonshire Quarrenden, James Grieve, King of Pippins.
Cox's Orange Pippin, Braddick's Noni>areil and Lord
Burghley ; culinary, Frogmore Prolific, Stirling Castle,
Lane's Prince Albert, Bismarck, Bramley's Seedling and
]S'e\\-ton Wonder. Pyramid trees are recommended.
Pears, DoyennS d'Et"6, AVilliams' Bon Chrfitien, Beurr6
Superfin, Marie Louise, Doyenn6 du Comice and Josephine
de Malines, all dessert sorts. May be planted as pyramids,
or grown as single cordons on walls. Stewing Pears,
Catillae, Durondeau, General Todleben and Vicar of Wink-
field. Plums, dessert, Coe's Golden Drop, Early Trans-
parent Gage, Jeft'erson, Kirke's Purple Gage and Heine
Claude de Bavay ; kitchen Plums, Czar, Dymond, Early
Prolific, Grand Duke, Pond's Seedling and Victoria. Grow
dessert sorts on south and east walls. Cherries, Belle
d*Orleans, Black Eagle, Elton, Early Rivers, Black
Tartarian and Kentish Bigarreau. Red Currants, Fay's
Prolific and Raby Castle; Black, Boskoop Giant, Lee's
Prolific and Baldwin's ; Wliite, White Versailles. Goose-
berries, dessert, Lancley Gage, Leader, Golden Gem, Red
Warriniiton and Whinham's Industry. Raspberries,
Perfection, Superlative, Yellow Superlative and November
Abundance. Important cultural items are that the land
should be deeply trenched and burnt earth freely, or lime
at the rate of two bushels per rod, added. For stone
fruits, it should be remembered that lime is essential, and
in preparing a 2-fcet-wide trench, chalk or lime should be
freely incorporated with the staple soil.
SOIL FOR FRUIT TREES (H. C. F.).—Ii your soil is, as
is very probable, deficient in lime, we think it would be a
good thing to give it a dressing of powdered chalk at the
rate of about three tons to the acre. Potash salts you will
find too expensive this season to use, but you may safely
use superphosphate if you have added the chalk, and it
would probably improve the keeping qualities of the fruit.
It should be added that many varieties of Pears are better
for being picked a little while before they are actually ripe.
ARRANGEMENT FOR FRUIT TREES IN NEW
ORCHARD (Fruit Trees). — The arrangement suggested is
so good that we can find no fault with it. We presume
the orchard is intended for the home supply of fruit, and
not for sale. The distance apart to plant is quite correct.
Apple trees do not assume the pyramidal form naturally
like the Pear does, and we think you would do better with
all bushes and no pyramids. These should be grafted on
the dwarfing English Paradise stock and the standards
on the free or Crab stock. Pear trees for espaliers should
be worked on the Quince; stock. We need scarcely remind
you that frnit trees do badly when grass is permitted to
grow over their roots, and especially is this the case when
the trees are young.
KITCHEN GARDEN.
CARROTS FOR INSPECTION (Weaver). —Yonr Carrotb
appear to have been attacked by the Carrot fly grub,
and as the parents which lay the eggs fly readily,' soil
dressings are of Httle avail against them as a rule. The
trouble is lessened by keeping the soil about the roots of
tlie Carrots flrm. by destroying the thinnings immediately
iiisleud ot lejiviu'j, tlieiii on the soil, and by sprinkhng sand
moistened with j)aniniM along the rows about the time the
thinning is done.
MISCELLANEOUS.
NAME OF FRUIT. — E. Ingram.— Sovmciu] Piarmain.
SOCI ETI ES.
THE NATIONAL ROSE SOCIETY.
Annual General Meeting.
The annual general meeting of the National Rose Society
was held in the Connaught Rooms, Kingsway, London,
W'.C, on Thursday, the 10th inst., the president, Air.
C. E. Shea, presiding over a large gathering. The report
and financial statement submitted show that, in spite
of the war, the society has had a good year and that its
finances are sound. There is now about £2,000 in the
reserve fund, £500 being added in 1913, lea\iDg a working
balance at the end of that year of £474 15s. lid. For the
year ending 1914, after paying all expenses, the society
has a balance in hand of £704 ISs. 3d., a very .satisfactory
condition considering everything. 5Ir. Shea, in pro-
posing the adoption of the report and financial statement,
said that there was not the slightest need for them to bf;
depressed. Naturally, they had lost some members,
many of whom had stated their intention of rejoining as
soon as the war is over, but during the year they had made
a net increase in membership of 222, the total number of
members now being 6,257. He thought that professional
Rose-growers would probably benefit soon by the war,
as a great many people were making a lot of money out
of various contracts, and they would soon want to plant
Roses. Some discussion had arisen in the past concern-
ing the abandonment of the autumn show, but the Council
had no option but to take that course. He thought
the one sad feature of the report was the paragraph
referring to the retirement of Mr. Mawlty from the hon.
secretaryship, but was glad to know that they would not
lose his services entirely as he was to be their president
for the ne.xt two years.
Mr. G. Paul, V.M.H., in seconding, said that he could
heartily endorse Mr. Shea's remarks, especially those
referring to Jlr. Mawley. As a trade grower he felt very
grateful^ and he was sure others did also, to the private
growers who had supported them during the present
crisis by giving orders as liberally as they could.
The Kev. J, H. Pembcrton stated that before the report
was adopted he would like to point out that the society's
publications did not come before the whole of the members
of the Council for approval ; they were the work of the
pubUcatious committee. In the recently issued " Hints
on Planting Roses " there w-ere several things that he
wished to dissociate himself with, especially the state-
ments relating to the Roses raised by M. Pernet-Ducher.
He would also like to see the last part of the paragrapli
in the report relating to the pro%'incial show deleted, and
moved that this be done. This was unanimously carried.
The proposed alteration of rules, as sent out to members,
was the next business. Mr. E. J. Holland proposed that
the first five paragraphs of suggested alterations as circu-
lated be adopted, this being seconded by Blr. Cecil Cant.
'This raised a protest from a member, whose name we
were unable to ascertain; but the protest, which took
considerable time on the part of its mover to put before
the meeting, was not very clear. Mr. Holland's motion
was carried. The remaining paragraphs of alterations
were proposed by Dr. Williams, and duly seconded and
carried. Dr. Wiiliams also moved the alteration of bye-
law Ko. 1. The deletion suggested, he pointed out, would
enable the Council to have a free hand in fixing the date
of the metropolitan exhibition. Mr. Dennisou spoke
against this, but after some discussion the proposal was
carried. A vote of thanks to the ofiicers and Council
for 1914 was proposed by the Rev. H. S. Arkwright.
and seconded by Mr. F. W. Harvey.
The next item on the agenda was the special vote of
thanks to Mr. Mawley for his services as hon. secretary.
In moving this the president referred in glowing term*
to his services to the society, these remarks being seconded
by the hon. treasurer, Mr. G. W. Cook, and endorsed by
Mr. George Paul, V.M.H. On page 60B we give Mr.
Mawley's portrait, and also some details of his work in
connection with the society. This special vote of thanks
was carried unanimously and with acclamation.
The result of the ballot was next announced, all the
names sent out to members standing with the exception
of Mr. T. G. M'. Heuslow and Mr. H. J. Spooner, the former
bein" a newly nominated member for the Council, and
the latter an old member of the Council. The president
now is Mr. E. Mawley, V.M.H. ; deputy-president, Mr.
E J Holland: and the hon. secretaries. Mr. B. R.
Darlington and Mr. Courtney Page. New members of
614
THE GARDEN.
[December 19. 1914.
the Council arc the Rev. H. S. Ark^Tight. iMessrs. A. E..
Bide. W. J. Grant. F. W. Harvey, B. Peyman and
A. E. Prothero.
The induction of >Ir. Mawley as the new pre:?idcnt was
the occasion of a remarkable scrno, unparalleled, we think,
in the annals of the society, the whole of the members
rising and cheering enthusiasticaUy, Anally joining in
singing heartily "For he's a jolly good fellow.'* Mr.
Mawley suitably replied, and then stated that his fir^^t
duty as president was the very pleasant one of handin-i
to Mr. Shea the Dean Hole Memorial Medal as some slight
recognition of his services in the interests of the society.
A portrait of Mr. Shea will be found on page 603.
The conversazione held at the conclusion of the annual
meeting was well attended, and was the most comfortable
and successful of its kind the society has ever arranged.
The artists were excellent, and the tables beautifully
decorated with Roses by Mr. R. F. Felton. The society's
lantern slides of Roses, prepared and shown by Mr. \Vettern
■and explained by Mr H. J. Holland, were very fine indeed,
and the coloured scenes transported the audience to the
wardens of July, so realistically were the Roses depicted.
EAST ANGLIAN HORTICULTURAL CLUB.
The annual meeting was held on Wednesday, December 9,
At Norwich, Mr. John Clayton presiding. The report,
presented by Mr. W. L. Walhs, secretary, stated at the
outset that some twenty members had enrolled them-
selves in His Majesty's Forces, and that £4 had been
subscribed to the National ReUef Fund. The member-
ship numbers 365. The financial position is sound ,
there being a balance in hand of £127 7s. 8d. The educa-
tional work of the club, carried out by means of exhi-
bitions, papers, lectures and debates, has been most
successful during the year. Mr. J. D. Cockerell, gardener
to Mr. G. E. White, Eaton, was the champion exhibitor
of the year. It was incidentally mentioned that Mr.
Cockerell is now in Kitchener's Army. Mr. W. Shoesmith
becomes the possessor of the Harmer Silver Challenge Cup,
having won it three years. Thanks are accorded to the
donors of special prizes and to those who had made special
■exhibition displays during the year, special mention being
accorded to Messrs. Daniels Brothers, Limited; Hobbies,
Limited ; and Mr. Frank Neave. The outing to Kew
G-ardens in the summer and a presentation of a silver
flower vase to Mr. Herbert Perry are alluded to. In con-
clusion, tlie report thanks Mr. John H. Willis for his
interesting monthly weather reports, the local and garden-
ing Press for their reports of meetings, and the offic?-
bearers for their services. The election of officers followed,
at the outset of which Mr. H. Perry moved that the club
should suspend the rule calling upon the president and
vice-president to be changed, urging that it would be
wise to retain the services of Mr. John Clayton and Mr.
T. Notley in these respective positions This suggestion
was unanimously agreed to. All the other officers were
re-elected, a special tribute being paid to the energetic
secretary, Mr. W. L. WalUs, for his untiring devotion
to his office in spite of the fact that his health has not been
^t its best. Mr. George Henley, Earlham Hall Gardens,
Norwich, was added to the committee. The exhibition
tables presented a bright appearance. Begonias and
Primulas predominating in the fiower section. Apples
were good, especially the dishes of Cox's Orange Pippin.
Mr. W. Shoesmith staged some extra good Grapes, both
.black and white.
HIGHCLIFFE GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION.
On December 7 there was a good attendance of members
when Mr. C. J. Gleed, Staff Teacher, Hampshire County
Council, gave an interesting and valuable lecture on "Insect
Pests." The lecturer dealt with green and black aphides
first, as they were such common pests and caused so much
trouble. The most effectual way to get rid of them was to
smother them wholesale, and to this end, he said, fumiga-
tion, vaporising and syringing with soft soap and quassia,
And also with a paraffin e"mulsioii, should be carried out.
A good emulsion could be made that would keep well for
a year in bottles. Twelve ounces of soft soap should be
placed in a gallon of water, addinp one gallon of paraffin ;
this mixture should be gently boiled and well churned up
to bring it to a thick creamy emulsion ; afterwards it should
be once more gently boiled, when it would be in a fit state
to store. Use one part of the emulsion to twenty parts
of clear water on ordinary plants, and one part to twenty-
five parts on tender foliage when syringing. This emulsion
was also recommended for kiUing caterpillars on
Currant bushes. Lead arsenate was advised as a cure
for the ravages of the Codhn moth if the solution was
sprayed on directly the flowers had fallen, as then the
grubs were poisoned as soon as hatched. Mr. Gleed
recommended soil fumigants in the case of wircworm-
infested land. The more porous the land was, the better
the result of the fumigants. All cUck beetles found in
rubbish should be destroyed, as well as traps set for catch-
ing the wireworms in the soil. Leather-jackets, grubs of
the daddy-long-legs, could be got rid of, to a great extent,
by surface stirring of the soil, as then the birds would find
and eat them. Sodium cyanide was advised for killing
mealy bug, white fly and red spider in glass structures,
but owing to the great danger attendant on its use, Sir.
Gleed said much care should be exercised in using it
and in the opening of doors and ventilators from the outside
for some time before anyone was allowed to enter the house.
He also dealt with the mites on Black Currants and with
the uses of sulphur as a remedy for red spider and other
mites. A discussion follo^ved, and the lecturer replied
clearly to many questions put to him.
TWICKENHAM HORTICULTURAL AND MUTUAL
IMPROVEMENT ASSOCIATION.
At the last monthly meeting of this society. Mr. W. E.
Reeves in tlie chair, Mr. K. Montague, 'Ihe Gardens,
Grey Court, Ham, gave a very mstructive lecture entitled
" Hints to Allotment Holders on the Cultivation of Vege-
tables." The lecturer has practical qualifications for
dealing with the cultivation of vegetables. For two
years in succession he has won the valuable challenge
cup for the best collection of vegetables offered by this
society, always against strong competition. The lecturer
in his opening remarks pointed out the necessity of deep
cultivation if flrst-class vegetables are desired. Another
important point often overlooked was the selection of
good tools to do the work properly, which helped to do
the work much more expeditiously than was the case with
indifferent tools. The lecturer then gave a list of vege-
tables most suitable for cottage garden and allotment
holders, de^hng with each variety separately, and gave
some useful hints on sowing the seed, thinning, rotation
of crops, the use of various manures, and the treatment
of the various insect and fungoid pests, which altogether
proved a very interesting and instructive lecture, not only
to allotment holders, but to professional gardeners present.
.Mr. Montague brought an excellent collection of vegetables
worthy of a place on any exhibition table. These, by kind
permission of his employer, Colonel Biddulph, were given
to St. John's Hospital, "Twickenham. A very hearty
vote of thanks was accorded Jlr, Montague for his very
able lecture.
DUMFRIES AND GALLOWAY GARDENERS'
ASSOCIATION.
.\T the fortnightly meeting of this association, held in the
Wesley Hall, Dumfries, on the evening of December 5,
the subject was " Flowering Trees." ]Mr. S. Arnott,
chairman, presided over a good attendance, who listened to
the lecture — which was given by Mr. D. Hunter of Messrs.
Barr and Hunter, Dumfries — with close attention. Sir.
Hunter gave an admirable lecture, referring to the import-
ance of the flowering tree in the garden and grounds,
and to its comparative neglect in small gardens. He
gave an excellent survey of the leading flowering trees,
pointing out the best genera, with their species and varie-
ties, and giving valuable details regarding their merits
and peculiarities. In the course of the discussion which
followed, the thanks of the members to Mr. Hunter wer^
expressed, The chairman, Mr. W. Hutchinson, Mr. J.
Henderson, ilr. C. G. Murray, Mr. J. Jeffrey and others
took part in the discussion, and Mr. Hunter replied to
the points raised in a succinct manner.
WARGRAVE AND DISTRICT GARDENERS'
ASSOCIATION.
There was a very good gathering of members on
December 2, when the hon. secretary, Mr. H. Colcby,
gave his second lecture on " Soils." He first briefiy
recalled the chief points of the lecture given last session,
and then dealt with the mechanical analysis of the soil,
showing how to test it for humus, carbonate of lime, sand
and clay, and the method of working out tlie percentage
of each. The experiments were watched with great
attention, and many questions respecting the procedure
were asked after the lecture. A good discussion was
also maintained and much other useful information
brought out, and a hearty vote of thanks was carried
with acclamation to the lecturer at the close. Mr. T.
Tunbridgc of The Three Elms Gardens, Remenham,
exhibited a good lot of single Chrysanthemnms and was
awarded a cultural certificate by the judges. Three new
members were elected.
Improvements at Duthie Park, Aberdeen. —
The newly appointed superintendent, Mr. W. B.
Clark, is effecting a number of improvements
in this important park. Chief among these are
internal alterations to the Palm House, where
many of the plants are already showing signs
of the improved conditions under which they are
growing. Outdoors, also, considerable alterations
are in progress, and next summer it is hoped
that these will be highly appreciated by the public.
Vegetables and Fruit for the Navy. — ^At a
meeting of the committee of the Dumfries and
District Horticultural Society, held in Dumfries
on December 5, Mr. S. Arnott in the chair, it was
resolved to support the scheme for the provision
of fresh vegetables, &c., for the Navy, embodied
in a letter received from Lord Charles Beresford
in connection with the Vegetable Products Com-
mittee. The proposal was heartily and unani-
mously supported, and a committee was appointed
to organise the movement in the district and to
appeal for supplies.
Balloch Park, Loch Lomond. — The Glasgow
Town Coimcil, at a meeting on December 8,
approved of the proposal in their draft provisional
order to purchase an estate on the shores of Loch
Lomond, near Balloch, as a public park. The
cost of £30,000 is to be paid from the Common
Good, and the park will be maintained from the
public rates of the city. Although the property
of the city of Glasgow, and secured through the
patriotic action of the Council, the new park will
be truly a national one, securing for the pub'.ic
access to one of the most beautiful of Scottish
lakes.
Henry J. Clayton Memorial. — In March last,
following upon the deeply lamented death of
Mr. Henry J. Clayton, who was for so many years
gardener at Grimston Park, Yorks, you were so
kind as to permit me the hospitality of your
columns to formulate a proposal that his many
friends in the horticultural world should unite
in raising a memorial to his memory in connection
with the Royal Gardeners* Orphan Fund, of which
he was one of the original promoters and subse-
quently one of its most strenuous supporters.
I now beg you to kindly allow me to state that
as a result of that appeal I have had the pleasure
of handing over to the treasurer of the Fund the
sum of £50, together with a list of the contributors,
who I am sure will be gratified to know that a
permanent memorial to Mr. Clayton's worth
I as a gardener and as a friend, and of his good
work in connection with the Fund, is thus assured
! for all time. I would wish also to be permitted
' to express my hearty thanks to all who have thus
I helped to perpetuate the memory of our old friend
in the way that I know would be most dear to his
heart. — T. Turton, The Castle Gardens, Sherborne,
! Dorset.
TRADB NOTB.
Boilers for Greenhouses.
Now that the cold, damp weather is with us, it is necessary
to keep a steady, warm temperature in our greenhouses.
To do this it is necessary that the boiler should be
thoroughly reliable and economical, otherwise all our
labour in other directions is lost. Those who need new
boilers for greenhouse or conservatory should write for
the excellent catalof^ue just issued by Messrs. Pearce and
Co.,644,Holloway Road, London, N. This catalogue is well
compiled and fully illustrated, and in its pages amateurs
will find a good deal of very interesting information.
Messrs. Pearce will be pleased to send a copy post free
to any of our readers who care to vTite for it. In spite
of the war, they inform us that they have made no advance
in the usual prices charged for their boilers.
Cataiogues Received.
H. J. Jones' Nurseries, Limited, Ryecroft, Hitlser Green
Lewisham : New Clirysanthemums.
Seadons, Limited, St. Albans : Sweet Peas.
Messrs. W. Drummond and Sons, Limited, 57 and 58,
Dawson Street. Dublin : Fruit Trees, Shrubs, Roses, ^.
PORTABLE WATTLED HAZEL
HURDLES.
Vselul Everywhere.
6ft. X 3ft. .. 13/6 doz.
6ft. X 'Ift. . . 20/- doz.
Extra Supporting Stake
. Oft. to 6ft. long, 2/- doz.
Free on Rail.
HAIGH, Station Place, LETCHWORTH
ir-.--.^-
E GARDEN.
=^^-=^,
No. 2249.— Vol. LXXVIII.
December 26, 1914.
NOTES OF THE WEEK.
To Our Readers. — By the time this issue is in
the liands of our readers, Christmas will be very
near and a memorable year swiftly drawing to its
close. Our outdoor gardens, though hushed and
still, are not devoid of interest, as we have tried to
point out on another page, even though the earth
be scarred by wintry blasts and bare of the glories
of summer. With nearly the whole of Europe in
A Useful Berried Shrub. — At this season any
berry-bearing plant is very useful for decorations,
either in the garden or the house. One of the
most useful for this purpose is the common
Butcher's Broom (Ruscus aculeatus), as its large
red berries are very conspicuous and are excellent
for decorations, particularly when berried Holly
is not very plentiful. It will thrive in almost
arms, the stereotyped Christmas greetings this year any position, and is excellent for planting imder
possess less meaning than ever. Our thoughts ' trees. Being dioecious, it is essential that one or
naturally turn to Belgium, a country that possesses two male plants should be mixed with the berry-
peculiar interest for horticulturists in the United I bearing ones.
Kingdom. So surely as our gardens, now in their The Winter Jasmine. — During the summer
winter bareness and swept by cruel winds and months, when our gardens are filled with the
frosts, will awaken to a greater glory, so shall the flowers of many other beautiful shrubs, the yellow
fair land of Belgium rise from
its tribulation greater, nobler and
more beautiful. When the time
for restitution comes, horti-
culturists will not be slow to
render to our distressed Allies the
material assistance that will be so
urgenMy required. To our readers
the world over, and especially to
those who from time to time send
us letters of « appreciation, we
tender our thanks for support so
loyally given.
General Index to this Volume.
The present issue completes
Vol. LX.XVIII., and we are
therefore presenting a general
index, together with a title-page
and frontispiece, suitable for
binding the whole of the issue
published during 1914. Next week
we shall publish our Special New
Year Number, which will contain
numerous articles by the best
recognised authorities in' this
country. Of more than ordinary in-
terest will be the first of a series ot
articles by Sir Herbert Maxwell, Bart., on " Hardy
Lilies." As there is always a large demand
for the New Year issue, we advise our readers
to place their orders well in advance.
Mr. Vernon T. Hill joins the Army.— The
many friends of Mr. Vernon T. Hill of the Mendip
Nurseries, Bristol, will be interested to learn that
he has received a commission as captain in the
12th King's Royal Rifles. Mr. Hill is well known
among Sweet Pea enthusiasts, having been a
liard-working member of the committee of the
National Sweet Pea Society for some years. He
also invented the " V.T.H." Slug Trap, which
has proved such a boon to gardeners.
POLEMONIUM RICHARDSONII ALBA, A CHARMING
ROCK GARDEN.
winter-flowering Jasmine is often overlooked and
neglected ; but at the present time it is one of the
brightest flowers outdoors. It should be planted
in several ; positions of different aspects, as a longer
supply of flowers is then obtained. Sprays for
putting in water will be found to last much longer
if cut before the flowers are expanded and placed
in a warm room. Pruning of the plants should
be done as soon as the flowers are over, and
merely consists of cutting away sufficient of the
oldest wood to prevent overcrowding.
Protecting Newly Planted Roses.— Usually
when Christmas is over we get a spell of severe
frost, sometimes of only two or three days' dura-
tion, and at others of as many weeks. Recently
we have had enquiries from numerous readers
for information about protecting Roses from such
frost. With established bushes an ordinary
winter does little or any harm, but those
newly planted are liable to suffer badly. We
know of no better method of protecting them
than heaping stale coal ashes, or, failing these,
porous or sandy soil, well up between the growths.
This prevents the lower buds, en which we must
rely for growth next year, being damaged, and
is far better than straw, manure, or other litter.
With standards, some sprays of Yew or other
evergreen tied among the branches usually afford
sufficient protection, and straw is quite permissible,
as it does not remain sodden for
any dangerous length of time.
Polemonium Richardsonii
alba. — Botanically, Polemonium
Richardsonii is referred to P.
humile, though the plants that
are met with in cultivation
under these names are distinct
enough for all garden purposes.
For example, we have never seen
P. Richardsonii so consistently
dwarf growing as P. humile, or
the latter so consistently tall
growing as the former. P.
Richardsonii is usually ij feet
high, a third of this being
the average height of the other
plant named. In this con-
nection it is interesting to
note that " Don " in his " Dic-
tionary of Gardening," while
making no allusion to P. humile,
refers to P. Richardsonii as a
6-inch-high plant. Hence,
probably, there is either con-
fusion among the species or, what
is equally likely, a few genera-
tions of seedling-raising have quite outstripped
the original in vigour and in other ways. That
named above, the subject of the illustration on
this page, has pure white flowers, the typical
kind having pale blue flowers with yellowish tube.
Pleasing in flower and ornamental in the pinnate
character of their leaves, they are worthy subjects
for the rock garden or front places in the select
herbaceous border. Seeds are produced with
some freedom, and if so%vn as soon as ripe, the
seedlings soon make nice flowering tufts. The
plants also lend themselves to increase by division
of the tufts, an operation best performed with
the return of growth in early spring.
PLANT FOR THE
616
THE GARDEN.
[December 26, 1914.
CORRESPONDENCE.
{The Editor is not responsible for the opinions
expressed by correspondents.)
Banksian Roses. — We have a Yellow Banksian
Rose on the east side of this house that has hitherto
flowered well everj- year ; it is only pruned
regularly. — G. Moon, Penyvoel House, Llany-
tnyneck, S.O., Montgomeryshire.
CistUS ladaniferus. — I am sending you a photo-
graph of CistUS ladaniferus, to show what this
plant can do in difficult situations. The plant,
one of a hedge, was three years old at the time the
photograph was taken in rgis, and has now grown
nearly twice the size. It is planted in heavy,
and I mention it in the hope that some disappointed
gardener may find Gentiana vema less difficult to
grow in future. — Mary Griffiths, Oakfietd,
Charlton Kings, Gloucestershire.
Weeds as Foliage. — " Anne," said my maiden
aunt, severely, as she seated herself at hreakfast,
" I helieve you like weeds." Outwardly bold
but inwardly quaking, I replied, " I do like some."
" Humph ! I thought you must. I've just walked
round your garden, and it's full of them." Now,
this was exaggeration and a gross libel on my
old gardener (nicknamed Too-Tidy). But I have
observed that folks who go walking before
breakfast are often somewhat self-righteous
and censorious at that meal. Now I will explain,
for the benefit of other poor amateurs who, like
A PLANT OF CISTUS
LADANIFERUS IN A READER S GARDEN.
CHARMING HARDY SHRUB.
THIS IS A
Stony, clay soil, with no manure or lighter soil
added, and the only protection we give is in the
hardest part of ihe winter, when a wind-screen is
placed on the north side. This is a very exposed
position here. I may add that all the Cistuses
do well here in the same soil, and I think it a great
pity they are not more largely grown, as the length
of time they flower compares very favourably with
other shrubs.. — B. Leach, Boidier, Headley,
Epsom. [The Cistuses also thrive in poor, sandy
soil. — Ed.]
How to Grow Gentiana verna. — In connection
with the Royal Horticultural Society's Show at
Chelsea in 1913, I saw a suggestion that Gentiana
vema should be grown in turf. As I had lost plants
for some years, I jumped at the idea and ordered a
new stock. Having by me dried specimens from
Switzerland fully 4 inches high, I thought I might
venture to put the small Irish form in a rough turf
edging, where the rock garden slopes down to the
bog garden. The grass was left quite wild, and I
now find that the Gentians are dead or dying.
{Possibly fine turf would have suited them better.)
At the same time I put similar plants close by in
the rock garden with Thymus Serpyllum in the
place of grass. This has proved a great success,
myself, have no heated greenhouse, why I like
"some" weeds. I should often be "hard up"
for that variety in foliage which gives so much
grace to cut flowers if I did not have recourse to
" weeds." One of the most delightful is Milk
Spurge. A china bowl filled with this is charming
with most flowers. Then there is the Filmy Ferny
foliage of Fool's Parsley. Young leaves of this
or of Hemlock are admirable with the puik double
Anemones which come to us from France. At
the present time of year whole plants of Chick-
weed and Speedwell bodily uprooted make a
pleasant change from moss as a carpet for flowers.
The reddish, frost-nipped tips of Dead Nettle are
lasting and eftecti\'e. The wiry sprays of the
little Nipplewort (Lapsana communis) are as good
as, or better than, Gypsophila for the foundation of
a bouquet in trumpet vases. These are " some "
of the weeds I allow in the far comers of my cottage
garden. — ,\nne Amatei'R.
How to Plant Crinum Powellii. — In answer to
" Enquirer," page 594 of The Garden for Dcctnr-
ber 12, as to how Crinums are grown at Burford, I
may say they are planted from 2 feet to 3 feet
deep in the ground. After they arc cut down by
the first frost, we cut the tops quite level with the
ground and cover over the crowns with a few inches
of soil or ashes. When winters are mild they
push their growth through the soil or ashes, and are
cut back again when frost is severe ; but we find
they are not at all injured even if cut back several
times during the winter and early spring. The
principal varieties grown at Burford arc C. Powellii,
C. PowelUi alba and C. Moorei (or makoyanum),
but C. Powellii alba is the finest of them. —
William Bain, Burford Gardens, Dorking.
" Enquirer's " difiiculties, referred to on
page 594 of your issue of December 12, in
reconciling the various catalogue instructions
for planting Crinum Powellii, probably arise from
the tapering character of the bulb, which in
developed plants measures from ij feet to
2i feet from base to tip. With an 18-inch
bulb two of the apparently antagonistic instruc-
tions become identical, as to plant " 12 inches
deep " is to leave " one-third of the bulb above
the surface." The point in deep planting is winter
protection, but it is, of course, equjilly necessary
that the ground should have been well worked,
manured and drained for a further 2 feet. We
have just dug up an old-established clump from
the north side of a low greenhouse wall, which
has always flowered well with the roots i foot
beneath the surface, and proved hardy, although
a south exposure is much preferable. The recent
editions of "The English Flower Garden" no
longer repeat the instructions quoted by
" Enquirer," but are content with the remark
that " the bulbs should be so deeply planted as
to show only the upper part of the neck." —
R. Wallace and Co.
In response to " Enquirer's " request ,
my bulbs were planted 6 inches to 8 inches deep.
They have been for twenty years or more in the
same spot, and produce annually a good display.
Crinum Powellii alba has not been p'antcd nearlv
as long. It was planted in the same manner,
and its blooms are as abundant as beautiful.
Certainly " doctors differ and patients — or
plants — die," but, if surface planting be
attempted, winter protection is aU the more
necessary. Even with deep planting mine are
given a coating of dead Beech leaves round
their stems, then some coarse cinders, and over all
some prunings of evergreen shrubs. The necks
of the bulbs, often nearly a foot long, require
this protection so as not to weaken the
bulbs. I do not believe any Crinum has a
complete rest ; only a much retarded or arrested
growth in British gardens. — J. Hill Poe, D.L.
(Captain).
Araucaria imbricata as Firewood.— I notice,
in reply to " Mrs. F. E. R.," on page 592, issue
December 5, you do not recommend the
timber of Araucaria imbricata for firewood. For
my part I cannot understand why anyone grows
the Monkey Puzzle except in parks or park-liJce
grounds. One sees this tree planted bountifully
in villa gardens, and I never behold one but 1
think that it has been placed there by a speculative
builder, or by one who has no knowledge of garden-
ing or lacks good taste. It is a tree which exhausts
the soil it grows in as much as anj'thing I am
cognisant of, and after having prospered at the
expense of any neighbours, rain seldom penetrates
its branches when the tree is some twenty-five
years old. At best it is an ugly thing, especially
after it loses its lower boughs, as it generally does
at an early date if planted near a town. It is also
a danger to those who unluckily come into contact
with it. While the boughs are highly inflammnhle.
December 26, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
617
the stem is useless for firewood, as I found
some three years since, when I had two trees some
thirty feet high cut down. I thought then, as
perhaps some of your readers have done, that it
would be of service in the form of logs, but I was
never more disappointed. Although I tried some
pieces of the tree in my house a year or so after it
was cut down, I could not bum it. It smouldered
in a very hot fire, but it would not bum and give
out heat. — Observer.
Ivy Under Large Trees. — I was much interested
in the splendid illustration, showing Ivy under a
large tree, in your issue of December 12, page 599.
Under many large trees, especially those of Firs,
Cedars and conifers generally, it is often found to
be a difficult matter to get a nice green carpet of
grasses ; then a substitute must be found. In
one case I had to form a border to a drive under
large trees, with a fine imdergrowth of evergreen
and deciduous shrubs, and the most successful
plant was the Ivy. Between stone kerbs a nice
band of Ivy, i foot wide, was planted, and the
shoots also pegged down in good loam in which
some old mortar rubble was incorporated. A
little trimming was all that was
required afterwards. I have i "
moisture, it is not wise
to tread upon it, even for
the purpose of trenching, when in a
wet condition unless boards are used
to stand upon. Treading kneads the
surface too much, thus preventing
the proper amelioration of the soil by
weather influences. I am a strong
advocate of trenching ground annu-
ally, or certainly in alternate years.
The soil then resists drought so much
better during the summer and is so
much more easily manipulated and
improved generally. The expense
of trenching stiff soil too often
prevents it being done, but it pays to
do it thoroughly. Soil of a light loamy
or sandy character does not need
trenching ; deep digging, with abun-
dant supplies of manure, are all that
is necessary to obtain satisfactory
results from such soil.
Next to clay, the most difficult soil
to manage is that which is heavy, yet
not actual clay, some 15 inches or so
in depth, overlying a hard, pan-like
subsoil of clay and stones firmly
embedded. In its natural condition
the water from excessive rains cannot
percolate through this subsoil for some
time, and thus the surface soil remains
waterlogged too long — a condition quite unsuited to
plant-life. Such soil can only be treated properly
and advantageously by trenching some 2 feet or,
better still, 3 feet deep. The method of trenching
such soil is open to various opinions. Some
writers advocate bringing the lower stratum or
subsoil to the surface. To bring such soil to the
surface and to leave it there without any addition
would entail many difficulties in sowing seeds
and planting various crops the first season. If,
however, sufficient material, such as decayed
vegetable and roadside refuse, leaves, old potting
soil, sand and wood ashes, with a small quantity of
dry, unslaked lime, can be had to cover the plot
6 inches or so thick previous to sowing or planting
the first crop, then I advise the adoption of such
a method as bringing to the surface the bottom
spit of soil, especially if the plot can be retrenched
again the next season. By this method the top
and bottom soil will become thoroughly incor-
porated and improved.
If, however, there is no possibility of obtaining
such material, I do not advise bringing the subsoil
to the surface. The alternative method is to
trench the same depth, but to leave the bottom
spit of soil in its present position. When trenching
soil of a heavy character, a helpful addition would
be a plentiful supply of long strawy manure,
freshly gathered leaves or partly decayed vegetable
matter. Material of this kind in the bottom
trench facilitates quick drainage, and in the near
future, when decayed and incorporated with the
soil by secondary trenching, provides valuable
plant food, apart from its value in ameliorating
the soil. I need hardly say that the bottom of
the trench should be thoroughly broken up to
assist rapid drainage. As trenching proceeds,
the soil should be laid up as lightly as possible,
especially on the surface, with a view to exposing
as large an area as possible to the influence of the
weather.
Swanmne. E. Molyneux.
ROSE-GROWING IN
GARDENS.
IN TOWN
THERE is some diversity of opmion as
to whether the manuring of Rose-
beds in autumn and winter is bene-
ficial or the reverse. The case
against it is chiefly that if applied
at this time of the year, some of
the manurial elements will have become washed
out and lost before the roots are able to
take advantage of them in the spring, and
also that the manure becomes sodden and is
likely to prove harmful to the roots and stems of
plants during a frost. The latter consideration
need hardly deter one, for although it is obvious
that plants would suffer from having the sub-
stance in actual contact with the stems, those
who apply it carefully will see that this does not
occur. As regards the roots, a mulch, even of
the wettest kind, affords some protection in cold
weather, and frost will not penetrate so far into
the earth beneath as it would if this were uncovered.
The chief factor which should be taken into
consideration is the character of the soil, for no
opportunity should be lost of improving its texture.
If this be of a light character, therefore, one may
safely give a heavy dressing of cow-manure now,
but before doing this the soil should be raked up
a little around each plant so as to cover about
two inches of the basal growths, and this is advis-
able whether manuring or not.
The manure should be heaped rather than
spread between the rows, keeping it well away
from the plants. One great advantage of this
winter application is that the manure will have
become deodorised by the spring, and it will then
have rotted sufficiently to be broken up with the
hoe. There is no occasion to treat heavy soils
in this way, but all will benefit from a dressing
of bone-meal and sulphate of potash (three parts
A WINTER SCENE IN THE BAMBOO GARDEN AT KEW.
620
THE GARDEN.
[December 26, 1914.
of the former to one of the latter). Bone-meal
is a fertiliser that is slow in action, requiring some
time to become available as a food supply, while
the potash will remain in the soil until taken up
by the roots, so that there is considerable benefit
ill applying both early.
When burning the garden rubbish from time
to time, one should bear in mind that the ashes
form a valuable manure. Wood-ashes can be
added to light soils at the rate of half a pound to
the square yard, and if a sufficient quantity is
available, sulphate of potash will not be required.
Light soils will also benefit considerably by an
application of pulverised chalk, which can be
applied now, and subsequently hoed in early in
spring. This is the most advan-
tageous way of adding lime, in
which such land is generally
deficient, as it also helps to retain
moisture. A pound to the square
yard should be the quantity given.
Before planting new Roses or
replanting old ones, the roots
ought to be carefully examined,
and thick ones that are without
fibre should be shortened, at the
same time removing all those that
are dead or damaged. When doing
this, one can keep a look-out for
suckers and cut out all eyes that
are forming upon the stock, which
will save considerable trouble
later. P. L. Goddard.
GOLDEN-LEAVED CONIFERS
FOR WINTER EFFECTS.
T
HE various golden-leaved conifers are
useful subjects for decorative garden-
ing and may be used for a variety of
purposes. Unfortunately, some of
the more delicate-constitutioned ones
cannot be grown with success in the
vicinity of large towns and cities, where the atmo-
sphere is rendered impure through smoke or
chemical fumes, and even those which grow
moderately well under these conditions are shorn
of much of their beauty by the coating of dirt
ROSES ON OLD
FRUIT TREES.
IT frequently happens that one
has an old fruit tree that is
past its best, and yet one does
not wish to root it out en-
tirely. Few conceive what
labour is needed to properly
grub out such a plant, and it might
often be put to great use and beauty
by the help of . a few judiciously
selected climbers. Among these I
know of none better than Clema-
tises and Roses.
At the outset we liave ideal
ground for the plants to occupy in
the most artistic manner. The
support, too, is far sounder than
we could possibly secure artificially
witliout much expense and labour.
Now, far too many err in planting
without sufficient preparation in
these cases. Remember, the estab-
lished tree has possession, and
whatever else is placed at its boiC is very
heavily handicapped. Therefore we need to take
away some of the soil to a good depth and replace
it with really good compost, more especiallyas the
older soil must be exhausted. Nor is it quite
enough to do this ; it is better to sink a small
barrel or tub, minus the bottom, and fill this in
with some of the better compost. It only re-
mains for me to name a few of the Roses most
suitable, and any reader can get to work. F^licit^
Perp6tue and Paul's Single White are two good
whites ; Hiawatha, Dorothy Perkins and Reine Olga
de Wurtemburg, reds ; Robert Craig, Gardenia
and Alberic Barbier, yellows ; Elise Robiohon,
Euphrosyne and Blush Rambler, pinks. A. P.
ROSE PAUL S SINGLE WHITE GROWING OVER AN OLD FRUIT
TREE. THE LATTER FORMS AN EXCELLENT SUPPORT.
which collects on the leaves during winter. Under
better conditions, however, in a purer atmosphere
and away from smoke, where the branches and
into notice. Some of the best are aurea varie-
gata, Barronii, adpressa aurea, elegantissima.
Dovastonii, aureo-variegata, fastigiata aurea and
f. Standishii, The variety Barronii is specially
worthy of notice on account of the rich coppery
colour of the leaves, while elegantissima and
Dovastonii aurea are remarkably graceful in
appearance ; adpressa aurea is of very neat habit
with tiny leaves, while the fastigiata varieties
are golden forms of the Irish Yew.
Next in importance to the Yews are the varieties
of Cupressus. Of C. lawsoniana the variety lutea
has golden foliage and is of similar habit to the
type ; gracilis aurea is remarkable for its graceful
appearance, the secondary branches being pen-
dulous, A golden variety is known
of C, nootkatensis, while of
Cupressus (or Retinospora) obtusa
there are several varieties.
Crippsii, a form of the last
named, is a particularly rich-
loloured variety of aurea, while
gracilis aurea is of very dainty
appearance. C. pisifera provides
lis with several good golden
varieties, plumosa aurea and
filifera aurea being the best.
C, macrocarpa lutea is a vigorous-
growing variety of the Monterey
Cypress, remarkable for its rich
colour during summer and
autumn, and its change to a
greener tint during late winter
and spring. It is an excellent
subject, especially for gardens
in the vicinity of the coast. The
common American Arbor-vita
(Thuya occidentalis) provides
several golden varieties, that
called lutea being the best. Of
Thuya plicata there is a variety
aurea, and another, zebrina ; the
latter has green and golden-
marked shoots. The Chinese Arbor-
vitae (Thuya orientalis) provides
a golden variety named aurea,
which is a neat-growing plant.
Juniperus chinensis aurea is a
pretty golden variety of the
Chinese Juniper, while among
Pines we get a golden variety of
the common Scots Pine (Pinus
sylvestris).
In addition to these there are
numerous varieties with more or
less variegated foliage, but they
are inferior to those here men-
t oned for general work. Some
of them have a diseased appear-
ance and the golden patches die
Those to which prominence has been given
out.
are, in almost all cases, strictly golden coloured,
and the plants present a perfectly healthy
leaves keep clean, they are most effective, and \ appearance, being, e.xcept in colour, exact
the colour keeps good for the greater part of the ' counterparts of their respective types, as easy
year, ; to cultivate, and growing at about the same rate.
Perhaps of the golden-leaved conifers the Of course, it is desirable and necessary that
various Yews, varieties of Taxus baccata, are the soil should be thoroughly prepared before
the most useful, for they thrive in most gardens planting, and, if at all poor, some well-decayed
even about towns. The leaves keep a good colour , manure should be added to the bottom spit,
for many months, and only become dull for a ' For most evergreens, and this applies equally to
short period previous to new ones being formed, those with golden foliage, early autumn — i.e..
As a rule the brightest colour is found on the about the middle or end of September — or the end
the best times
K.
under sides of the leaves, but, as they usually
turn upwards, the colour is brought prominently
of March and during April are
for planting.
December 26, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
621
PERPETUAL-FLOWERING
PINK PROGRESS.
INTRODUCED in 1909, this beautiful variety-
has not yet enjoyed the popularity which it
deserves, and the only reason I can think of is
that it is not sufficiently well Imown, as any
friends who have seen it growing in my green-
house have been charmed with it, and
many indeed are the cuttings which I have
given away. Its growth is much more similar
to that of a Carnation than of a Pink, but the
foUage, being thin and wiry, but exceptionally
strong and healthy, closely resembles that of the
common Pink. The bloom is most exquisitely
formed, and is of a rosy mauve colour. It is,
however, a colour which does not blend at all
well with most others, but a vase by itself is a sight
not to be forgotten. The calyx is not quite what
it might be, and I have had some
trouble with this splitting, but any
defects are amply recompensed by
the glorious perfume which, in my
opinion, is the feature of Progress.
It has the real Clove scent of the
old common Pink, and a bunch of
cut blooms fills the whole room with
a sweet, refreshing odour which few,
if any, flowers can excel. Having a
hardy constitution, it can be success-
fully flowered outside or under glass,
and in the latter case makes an ideal
pot plant. In common with all other
Pinks, either cuttings or layers root
easily, and as a lot of " grass " is pro-
duced, a large stock is very quickly
got together. It is not at all difficult to
grow well, and I have found the follow-
ing method of treatment very success
ful. In August I plant the cuttings in
a cold frame in very sandy soil, and
when well rooted they are potted
into 3-inch pots and replaced in th ■
frame, where they remain all the
winter. For the first potting a light
compost consisting of two parts light
loam, one part leaf-mould and a good
sprinkling of coarse sand is best.
They will require very little water
during the winter months, and are
much safer if kept on the dry side.
In early spring repot into 5-inch pots,
using a heavier compost than for the
first potting. Two parts good fibrous loam, one
part well-rotted manure, half a part good leaf-
mould and a little bone-meal and old mortar rubble
make an ideal medium for this potting. After re-
potting, the young plants may be left for a few weeks
in the cold frame, and then transferred to their
flowering quarters in the greenhouse, which should
be light and airy. If green fly attacks the shoots,
fumigate with some good compound whenever the
first fly is detected. When the flowers are over,
remove as much as possible of the old spent soil
and repot into 6-inch or 7-inch pots, using the same
compost as before. They will soon start again
into growth, and the following season make grand
specimen plants either for conservatory decora-
tion or for giving quantities of cut bloom for the
house. To enable these. two year old plants to
yield large blooms, it is advisable to give copious
supplies of very weak liquid manure when the
flower-buds appear.
Ayrshire. G. B.
THE ORIGIN AND MEANING
OF CHURCH DECORA-
TIONS AT CHRISTMAS.
I THINK there is very little doubt that one
of our oldest and most general customs
is that of decorating our churches with
evergreens, berries and flowers at the
season of Christmas. Pre-reformation or
post-reformation, evangelical times or
catholic revival, town or country, made only a
difference in degree. Wordsworth, John Gay
and Robert Herrick, to mention three poets of
dilferent ages whose knowledge of country ways
and doings is proverbial ; Samuel Pepys and
John Evelyn, the diarists of Cromwellian and
Stewartian times ; the fifteenth century congre-
gation of St. IVIary-at-HiU in the City of London
(as we know from their own or from other \vritten
Our own feelings are sufficient to account for
the origin of the practice. There is a seemliness
in making the external correspond to the inward
on occasions of joy and grief. There is sometliing
in the fitness of things that connects decorations
and best clothes with days of peculiar importance
or the entertaining of guests. It is this, fur
example, which must have suggested the parable
of " The Wedding Garment " to Our Lord, and
which must have made its meaning so clear to
His hearers. Hence we can see why Christmas
has always been associated in the minds of
Christians with outward signs of joy both in
their homes and in their churches. Impossible
but that it should be so. Why, though, Holly
and Ivy ? What gives these two plants their
peculiar position, more especially the first ? Two
explanations are offered : First, it may be a relic
of the old heathen festival of the Saturnalia,
which happened to be celebrated at Rome about
A FINE SPECIMEN OF WEEPING HOLLY.
contemporary evidence) ; all saw their churches
decorated for the birthday of Our Lord, and although
it is only a surmise, it is well within the bounds
of probability if I suggest that tlie Venerable Bede,
Bishop Swithun, Alban the Martyr, or Becket, the
murdered archbishop, must also have seen the same
emblems of joy and love when they entered God's
House on a Christmas morning. Undoubtedly
Holly and Ivy are the two plants which always
have been, and which still are, associated more
than any others with the Nativity. Although the
orderly sequence of appropriate and distinctive de-
corations for the changing seasons has long been a
dead letter, we would feel there was something miss-
ing were we to see none of the familiar le:.ves and
trails somewhere in the wreaths or devices of to-day.
" The Holly hitherto did sway ;
Let Box now domineere.
Until the dancing Easter-Day
Or Easter's eve appeare."
From Herrick's '' Ceremonies for Candlemass Eve."
a week before the Christian Feast of the Nativity.
At this time friends gave one another branches
of Holly as an expression of their goodwill, along
with the presents which it was customary to send.
What more natural than to transfer this innocent
custom, with its ready-made meaning, to the
great festival of the anniversary of Him who
came to bring peace on earth and goodwill among
men ? Or, secondly, its use may have arisen
from the practice of the Druids, who invariably
hung in and around their dwelling-places bunches
of Holly or other evergreens, in order that the
spirits of the woods might find a shelter when
their customary abodes were leafless and when
the weather was particularly severe, as it so often
ni'jst have been about the time of the old
Cliristmas Day.
In judging which of the above suggestions is
the more probable, it is well to bear in mind two
facts : One, the universal association of Ivy
with Holly as appropriate for Yuletide decorations.
622
THE GARDEN.
[December 26, 1914.
Church accounts ior i486 (St. Mary-at-Hill,
London) are extant which include " Holme and
Ivy at Christmas eve," and for 1524 {St. Martin
Outwich, London), which have " Item : for
holy and ivy at Chrystmas." This may possibly
be a relic of the Satumalian times at Rome, when
there is very little doubt men were apt to drink
" not wisely, but too well," and when it is certain
Ivy wreaths, with their supposed power of lessen-
ing the intoxicating effects of wine, were in much
vogue. The other is the strange fact that the
only plant which, as far as I know, is now absolutely
taboo in church decorations is the Mistletoe,
the sacred plant of the Druids, cut with imposing
ceremonies and with golden knives, and of wide
renown for its powers of healing, I am, however,
a little doubtful if this has invariably been so,
for John Gay (early eighteenth century), who
was intimately acquainted with rural life, distinctly
says in one of his poems that this was so used ;
thus :
" Christmas, the joyous period of the year.
Now with bright Holly, all the temples strow,
And with Lawrell green, and sacred mistleto."
If Mistletoe was ever admitted as equally suitable
with Holly and Ivy as part of the Christmas
adornment of our churches, then probably the
Druid origin is the true one. If, on the other
hand, it was not so, then the Satumalian is the
most likely one, more particularly when the
association of Ivy with Holly is so universal.
Personally, I favour the Roman origin as being
on the whole the more probable.
A word in conclusion about the factors in the
Christmas decorations. Nowadays we use every-
thing that comes to our hands. Yew, Box,
Laurel, Cupressus and Thuya are more often,
I expect, seen than not. But it was not always
so. In the days of Herrick the poet (time of
Charles I.) there was a certain well-defined sequence
of plants which were to be used for the different
seasons, and there is no reason to suppose that
the rota was not strictly adhered to. He thus
writes of house decoration :
" Down with the rosemary and bayes,
Down with the mistleto,
Instead of holly, now upraise,
The greener box, for show.
■ * * * * * *
Then youthful box, which now hath grace
Your houses to renew
Grown old, surrender must his place
Unto the crisped yew.
When yew is out, then Birch comes in.
And many flowers beside,
Both of a fresh and fragrant kine,
To honour Whitsontide."
— From " Ceremonies for Candlemasse Eve."
In another poem on the same subject the poet
seems to allude to the old idea of the evergreens
being originally put up as shelters for spirits :
" Down with the rosemary, and so
Down with the bales and misletoe ;
Down with the holly, ivie, all
Where with ye drest the Christmas hall ;
That so the superstitious find
No one least branch there left behind ;
For look, how many leaves there be
Neglected there, maids, trust to me.
So many goblins you shall see."
— From " Ceremony upon Candlemas Eve."
From this last quotation it seems possible to
suggest a third idea as to the origin of this
Christmas custom of decorating churches and
houses. With regard to the former, it may be
that the Holly and Ivy are direct descendants of
Satumalian times, and came to Britain ready-made,
as it were, with Christianity ; whUe, with regard
to the latter, the decorations may be but the
continuation of what was once universal
throughout the land in the days of the Druids.
This, at any rate, would account for the use
of Mistletoe in houses, while it is never found
in churches. Gay's assertion, though, wants
exp'anation. Joseph Jacob.
FRUIT TREES FOR VA^RIOUS
SOILS AND SITUATIONS.
DURING the next six or eight weeks
k many thousands of young fruit
I trees will be planted in various parts
' of the country, some of them with
due regard to the general character
of the soil and the positions they
are to fiU, but many without a thought being given
to these important and far-reaching details. With
the enlightenment that science combined with
practice has, during recent years, brought about,
the days of haphazard planting ought before this
to have gone. Wise and up-to-date market
growers give as much attention to the selection of
trees for the soil and positions they are to occupy
as they do to the actual planting ; but many
amateurs and not a few gardeners fail to realise
that an unwise selection may prove a stumbling-
block for many years, if, indeed, it is ever over-
come.
By the selection of trees I do not mean the mere
selection of varieties of, say. Apples, Pears or
Plums. The best sorts are now fairly well known,
and although some do better in certain localities
than they do in others, the majority can be grown
in almost any district that is at all suitable for the
cultivation of hardy fruits, providing the right
type of tree, grafted or budded on the stock best
suited to the soil, is selected. At the outset,
before even the character of the soil is studied,
the would-be grower must decide what kind of
plantation is to be made — whether it is to be one
of trees that will take some time to reach a fruitful
stage, but when that stage is reached remain in
vigorous and cropping condition for a great many
years ; or whether the trees shall commence to
give heavy crops as soon as established, continue
to do so for a score or more of years, and then
gradually deteriorate ; or it may be that a combina-
tion of both is desired. Then, again, the positions
of more or less isolated trees must be considered.
Is a large tree desirable in a certain spot, or is there
only room for a dwarf one, or possibly one that has
been more or less severely trained into a certain
shape ?
These points decided, we may safely turn to the
character of the soil and ascertain whether it is
composed of a preponderance of clay, or whether
sand or similar material forms the bulk. With this
information fully ascertained, due regard being
given to all the points raised, the selection of trees
suitable for almost any garden or plantation will
not be a difficult task. Nurserymen of to-day are
fully alive to the fact that trees of widely different
types are required for various purposes, and lay
themselves out to provide any conceivable types
that may be asked for.
Assuming, then, that a permanent plantation or
orchard of fruit trees is desired, one where the trees
will come slowly into the fruiting stage, but last
in that condition for a very long period, we must of
necessity have soil with a preponderance of clay
and of a good depth, then choose half-standard or
standard Apples that have been grafted or budded
on Crab Apple or seedling Apple stocks or roots,
and Pears that have seedling Pear as a stock. On
the other hand, should we desire a plantation that
is to crop early, and to last only a comparatively
short period. Apples grafted or budded on one of
the dwarfing Paradise stocks, and Pears on the
Quince, ought to be chosen. Both are shallow
rooting and have a dwarfing effect on the trees,
besides inducing them to crop freely at a very early
age. Although these dwarfing stocks are usually
recommended for shallow soil overlying gravel or
chalk, and where they do give good results, they
may also be utilised on soil of a more retentive and
deeper character where dwarf, early cropping trees
are desired. An orchard to contain a combination
of young fruiting and permanent trees should have
half on the stocks previously named and half on
the dwarf stocks.
For gardens, pyramid or bush trees, or the
trained cordons or espaliers, should be on these
dwarfing stocks, as the trees are so much more
easily kept within reasonable bounds than if
grafted on stocks of a more vigorous character.
It is in gardens that special care must be taken
in the selection of suitable trees. Nothing is
more disappointing than to find that a tree,
by the time it is cropping freely, is occupying
too much space ; the necessary cutting back will
only tend to make matters worse. Then, again,
some Pears, notably Beurre Bosc and Brown
Beurre, usually give the best results if double
grafted, i.e., a more common variety, such as
ConseiUer de la Cour, is first grafted or budded on
a seedling Pear or Quince stock, then, when this
has grown sufficiently, it is cut down and one
of the choicer varieties named grafted or budded
on it. Naturally, this is more expensive than
where only a single grafting or budding is necessary ;
but some of the best nurserj-men adopt this method,
and it pays to select trees of these varieties that
have been treated in this way, even though they
cost rather more at the outset.
The cultivation of large fruits such as Apples,
Pears, Plums and Cherries as cordons is now well
understood in every garden worthy of the name.
The system has much to commend it. Not only
can a large number be accommodated in a very
little space, but they are easily managed and
protected, and give good crops of the best quality
fruit. During recent years the cultivation of
Gooseberries and Red and White Currants as
cordons has been more widely adopted, and
certainly, in the case of the former fruit, the
system is much to be preferred to the old style ai
bushes, wherein the fruit was difficult of access
and frequently became splashed badly by heavy
rains. For gardens of limited dimensions, cordon
or espalier trees of nearly all kinds are exceedingly
valuable, and should certainly be chosen in prefer-
ence to standards or half-standards grafted or
budded on stocks of vigorous habit. The Red
and White Currants, and also Gooseberries, are
excellent for planting against walls or fences
facing north. In positions of this kind the fruit
can be kept in good condition until Jate in the
season. Troian.
December 26, 1914.]
THE GARDEN.
623
HISTORICAL NOTES ON
THE CARNATION.
CNE of the remarkable things con-
k nected with the Carnation as a
I British flower is its comparative
" novelty. The name cannot be
traced beyond, or, to be correct,
not quite till after, the middle of
the sixteenth century, when it occurs in a letter
printed by Hakluyt, also in the " Arte of Garden-
ing " and in " The Gardeners'
Labyrinth," and a little later in
Lyte's "Herbal" and Tusser's
" Five Hundredth Points." No
doubt Carnations of a kind would
be known and grown previously
under the name of Gilliflowers ;
but even these must have been
rare, for, setting aside the assump-
tion that " Gilofre," which disports
itself in a variety of spellings in
various ancient poetical pieces,
has any connection whatever
with the Carnation, being invari-
ably associated with exotic Spices,
and clearly the Clove of com-
merce, masquerading in an Angli-
fied French guise, none of the
glosses and vocabularies extend-
ing from the tenth to the
fifteenth centuries, nor any of
the few lists of garden plants
which have come down to us of
date earlier than the sixteenth
century, makes mention of the
plant.
This does not prove that the
plant was not grovm, but is
probably due to the fact that
plants destitute of economic
value, either physically or for
other purposes, possessed no
interest in the eyes of the
utilitarians who compiled these
particular manuscripts. Carna-
tion seems to have been con-
fined to London, or at least to
the South for a long time, because
we find Gilly Flower and July
Flower in use, the one in York-
shire in 1618 descriptive of a
number of kinds, and the former
in Aberdeen in 1624, when Spald-
ing mentions the plants blooming
till very late in that year as
something unusual. Parkinson,
who retains the name of Gilliflower for a section
of Carnations, assures the gentlewomen for whom
he wrote that the Old English Carnation was a
large double flower of a flesh colour. And we
may safely conclude from the character of Parkin-
son for correctness that the variety he refers to
was the prototype of all Carnations. He is borne
out by Gerard in the name being a distinctive
colour one, and it is also clear that " Carnation "
did not to these people convey the idea of a blush
skin tint such as it has to-day, but the colour of
raw flesh. Hence when we come across the names
Carnation - Gilliflower and Carnation - Holyoke,
we are sure they mean varieties with red or deep
rose flowers.
It was not only for the colour that the word
was applied, but Carnation denoted a new type
of bloom, very double and much larger than
the Gilliflowers, which were cither single or
double, with small flowers. Liebauld notes two
types of double, one large and one small, in culti-
vation in the South of France in the mid-sixteenth
century, and probably our large Carnation
emanated thence. Clusius found yellow and
apricot Carnations at Vienna ; Poland is mentioned
by Gerard as the country whence yellow Car-
nations were derived, and Italy was at the same
period noted for its Carnations. It would be
strange indeed in that period of merchant
ONE
OF
MR
THE SPRAYS
ELWES IN
OF LUCULIA
LONDON ON
GRATISSIMA SHOWN
THE 15TH inst;
adventurers were none
lovely flowers brought
they were.
of these strange and
home. As we know,
R. P. Brotherston.
NEW AND RARE PLANTS.
AWARDS OF MERIT.
Celastrus articulatus. — Fruiting branches of
this hardy, deciduous, highly ornamental Japanese
climber were shown, and attracted considerable
attention by reason of a berry-bearing beauty
which it retains for many weeks at this season
of the year. The species is now a great attraction
at Kew, whence the examples came. The
exhibited branches, of the size of an ordinary
Cedar-wood pencil and tapering to a fine point.
were freely spurred by the fruit-bearing laterals,
and these, scarlet in colour, are distinctly ornamen-
tal at this time. The fruits are enclosed in a more
or less adhesive calyx, and this, bursting open
later and reflexing after the manner of Euonymus,
reveals the brilliantly coloured fruits. The species
is well adapted for pergolas and such-like places.
Chrysanthemum Richmond. — A " Japanese "
variety of American origin, its raiser being Mr. E. G.
Hill of Rose and Carnation fame. The colour is
rich yellow, the variety of much merit at this late
season. Exhibited by Mr. T. Stevenson, gardener
to E. Mocatta, Esq., Woburn
Place, ,\ddlestone, Surrey.
Euphorbia (Poinsettia) pul-
cherrima rosea. — The name is
suggestive of a charming and use-
ful addition to a small set long
lield in esteem for its high decora-
tive merit at this season. The
crowning glory of the typical land
is the head of brilliant scarlet
bracts (leaves), which not infre-
quently have a diameter of a foot
or more. In the new-comer the
bracts are rose-coloured, tipped
^vith green as shown, the examples
not having reached high perfection.
A good novelty and an acquisition.
From Messrs. H. B. May and
Sons, Edmonton.
Laelio-Cattleya Sir Douglas
Haig (La^lio-Cattleya Henry Green-
wood X Cattleya Octave Doin). —
A handsome and beautiful hybrid,
the pure white sepals and petals in
fine contrast with a lip whose fron-
tal lobe is wholly coloured ruby
crimson of a rich, intense shade,
the remainder white with yellow
£ ufiusion . The line of de marcation
between these colours is fixed by
a deliberate line right across the
lip in a way we do not remember to
have seen before. From Messrs.
Sander and Sons, St. Albans.
CULTURAL COMMENDATIOM.
Luculia gratissinia.— Superbly
flowtrtd branches of this delight-
fully fragrant, rarely seen green-
house shrub were shown by Mr. H.
J. Elwes, Colesbome, Cirencester,
the cymes or heads of blossoms
equal in size to those of a large
Hydrangea. Larger individually
than is usually seen, the flowers,
were also of a richer tone of
rose colour than is possible of attainment in the
London district at this season of the year. The
perfect condition of the foliage also demonstrated
ideal surroundings as well as cultural excellence. The
species is from the Temperate Himalaya. Its presence
at exhibitions or in gardens was far more frequent
a quarter of a century ago than is the case to-day.
BY
NEW FRUIT.
Apple Winter Rlbston.— In general appearance
this may be likened to a small Blenheim Orange,
and, having the brisk flavour of Ribston Pippin,
possesses an assured value at this season of the
year. Exhibited by Messrs. George Bunyard
and Co., Limited, Maidstone. Award of merit.
The whole of the foregoing awards were made
by the Royal Horticultural Soci ety on tl e 15th inst.
624
THE GARDEN.
[December 26. 1914.
GARDENING OF THE WEEK.
FOR SOUTHERN GARDENS.
Fruit Under Glass.
Early Peaches and Nectarines. — Very careful
attention will be necessary now in regard to
trees which are in bloom, as during dull weather
any e.xtra excitement would be injurious. A
night temperature of 55° will suit them well, and
while the weather is favourable the top ventilators
may be left slightly open. When the flowers are
fully open, some means should be adopted to
distribute the pollen, either by shaking the trees
or by means of a soft brush, which must be very
carefully applied. A bunch of soft, dry feathers
will answer the purpose well.
Late Peach Trees. — These should be pruned,
washed and tied into position with as little delay
as possible, allowing a space of at least 4 inches
between the young shoots, and a clear outlet for
the terminal bud to make headway without crossing
other shoots. Examine the borders, and if they
are at all dry, give a good soaking of clear, soft
water. If the roots are near the surface, a top-
dressing of loam and bone-meal may be applied
with advantage.
Plants Under Glass.
Chrysanthemums.— There should be no delay
in propagating the necessary number of plants.
The best method is to insert the cuttings singly
in small, clean pots, and place them in a slightly
heated pit ; but if this is not available, they will
root quite well in a close, cold frame, although not
so quickly. Damping is the greatest trouble in
this respect. Keep the stools as hardy as possible,
so that the cuttings may be hardy and short-
jointed, and avoid long cuttings at all times.
It is better practice to propagate the latest varieties
now than to allow the cuttings to remain on the
old shoots until they become drawn and soft.
The Forcing-House.— In order to keep a full
supply of cut flowers during the winter, consider-
able forethought is necessary with regard to the
introduction of the different subjects into heat
at the proper time and in sufficient numbers to
meet the requirements of the establishment ; but
it is better practice to commence a few days earlier
than to drive this off too late, when hard forcing
has to be carried on, with misatisfactory jresults.
Newly potted shrubs for forcing should be
gradually accustomed to heat, and not placed in
the forcing-house at once. In this case a tempera-
ture of 55° is quite sufficient to start with, pro-
viding the start is made early enough.
Humea elegans. — These plants require very
careful watering during the winter ; a temperature
of 50° is quite high enough by night, and the top
ventilators should be left open whenever the
weather is favourable. Young plants in small
pots must not be allowed to become stunted for the
want of potting, but a ver>' small shift is all that
is necessary for the present. These plants may
be given a temperature of 55° after potting.
Freesia refracta alba.— The various batches of
these plants must receive attention with regard to
support as soon as sufficiently advanced. Keep
them growing in a warm greenhouse, and when
the pots are well filled with roots, a good supply of
weak manure water should be given.
The Flower Garden.
Roses of all kinds should be planted with as
little delay as possible after the soil is in a fit
state, and if sharp frost sets in, all tender varieties
should receive protection.
Lily of the Valley.— Old-established beds of
Lily of the Valley will benefit by a top-dressing of
fine leaf-soil and thoroughly decayed manure, and
if the space between the rows permits, the soil may
be lightly pricked up with the point of a digging-
fork previous to applying the top-dressing. If
new plantations are contemplated, a somewhat
shady situation should be selected for them. The
ground must be trenched and manured, and if
the nature of the soil is too retentive, a quantity
of river sand and old lime rubble should be mixed
with it.
The Rock Garden. — Plants in frames should be
freely ventilated during open weather, the lights
only being necessary as a protection from heavy
rain or sharp frost, when they should be closed and
some covering applied to keep the pots from being
frozen. .Any alterations necessary to the rock-
work should be pushed forward while the weather
is open, so that, when the time for planting arrives,
there may be no delay with this important work.
The Kitchen Garden.
Mushrooms. — Continue to collect and prepare
manure for new Mushroom-beds. At this season
there should be no difficulty in producing Mush-
rooms within six weeks from the date of spawning
the beds ; but it is very important that the material
is in good condition when the beds are made up.
The m.inure should be placed in a dry situation
where plenty of fresh air is available ; turn it
frequently to avoid sourness, which is the cause of
many failures. The house from which supplies
are being gathered should be maintained about
55°. The atmosphere may be kept moist by
frequently damping the walls and floor of the
house.
Potatoes. — Tubers for planting should be
selected now and placed singly in shallow trays or
boxes ; for early plantations in pots and bo.xes
the sets may be placed in gentle heat to sprout,
after which the pots should be prepared. Ten-
inch pots should be freely crocked, and three
parts filled with sandy loam and leaf-soil in equal
quantities. The tubers should then be placed in
position, three to each pot. A temperature of
50° is quite high enough, and when the young
shoots are through the surface, the pots should be
raised to within a few inches of the roof glass.
-As growth advances, ventilation must be freely
given.
Early Peas. — in sheltered gardens a sowing of
Peas may be made on a warm south border about
the end of the year, providing the soil is not too
wet. At Frogmore our first sowing was made
last year on December 30, and gathering com-
menced on June 2. From that date an unbroken
daily supply was kept up till November 11. The
variety for first sowing must be hardy, and for this
purpose I find The Pilot without an equal. The
pods are aslargeas those of Gradus, and the quality
of the produce is all that can be desired.
Royal Gardens, Windsor. John Dunn.
FOR NORTHERN GARDENS.
The Kitchen Garden.
Salads. — Continue to sow Mustard and Cress
and Radishes at intervals, the former in boxes, but
the latter will do better in a warm frame. Fresh
batches of Endive should also be got under cover
for blanching purposes, and any plants that may
still be in the open ought to be protected with straw.
A small sowing of Lettuce should now be made,
and as growth will be very slow at this time, the
plants must not be unduly forced. Earlier batches
growing in frames should have the soil stirred
between the plants, and all decayed leaves at once
removed.
Celery. — Opportunity should be taken on fine
days to lift a quantity of roots for immediate use,
as, if the ground becomes frost-bound, it is by no
means an easy matter to take up' the required
number each day. If these are stood in a cool shed
among ashes or sand, they will keep perfectly fresh
for some time.
The Seed Order. — As every post will now be
bringing in the new season's catalogues, it will be
wise during the long evenings to study these before
making out the order, as even tt the most experi-
enced the final making up of the order requires
careful study. This difficulty is increased where
the order is selected from, say, half a dozen
different firms. It is always wise to try some of
the novelties, or, at any rate, something that has
not been hitherto tried ; this always gives an
added interest to the season's work. Above all,
order early, if for no other reason than out of
consideration for the seedsmen.
The Flower Garden.
Nymphseas. — These aquatics, although to a
certain extent dormant, should by no means be
neglected. Sometimes they are planted in tubs
or baskets in artificial ponds with no great depth
of water, and much damage is sure to result if this
becomes frozen to any extent. In such cases it
will he advisable to have the ice broken round the
plants at least once a day, if this is possible, and see
that the plants are covered by at least a foot of water.
Rheums. — There is perhaps no more striking
plant in the bog or wUd garden than the various
forms of the Ornamental Rhubarb, which associate
so well with Gurmeras and many other hardy
plants. Where planting is intended, this should
be completed as soon as possible. The plants grow
quite freely in almost any kind of soil, and, once
planted, they may be left to take care of themselves.
Trenching in the Flower Garden.— If not
already done, the ground to be occupied by Dahlias
and Sweet Peas should be deeply dug or trenched
without delay. For the latter, our method is
to throw out a trench about three feet wide and
about the same depth, and let it remain open
until the beginning of March, when it can be made
up with soil and manure previous to planting.
In trenching for Dahlias, a liberal supply of manure
should be added to the soil.
Plants Under Glass.
Dracaenas. — The older plants that have become
somewhat unsightly through the loss of the lower
leaves may have the tops taken off; these can
be rooted in a bottle containing water and small
pieces of charcoal. As soon as roots are emitted,
the tops should be potted up and placed for a short
period in a propagating-case until they are estab-
lished. To increase the stock, the stems should
be cut into small pieces, and these placed in
boxes or pans filled with leaf-mould and sand,
where they will root readily.
Amaryllis. — -A few of the earliest-ripened bulbs
should now be brought from their resting quarters
and top-dressed prior to being placed in a
moderate temperature. In top-dressing, remove
the surface soil, taking care not to damage the
roots, and replace this with a mixture of loam,
leaf-mould and sand, with the addition of a little
dried cow - manure. Very little water will be
required for a time ; indeed, to overwater them
at this stage would cause the bulbs to make growth
at the expense of the flower-spikes.
Ferns. — -Attention must now be given to the
Adiantum section, which will by this time be
pretty well devoid of fronds. Those that are
decayed should be removed, and if the slightest
trace of scale is observed, these fronds should be
burnt. Unless the plants are wanted for an early
supply, they may still be rested for another
month, giving just sufficient water to keep them
alive.
The Hardy Fruit Garden.
Trees in Grass. — Where these trees seem to
be stunted in growth and otherwise have an
unhealthy appearance, it is certain there is some-
thing wrong at the roots. In such cases it w.U
be advisable to fork up the grass round the stem
of the tree — say, 4 feet all round — and top-drtss
with a mixture of turfy loam, lime rubble and
wood ashes, afterwards applying a light mulch of
good farmyard manure.
Planting. — While the weather permits, the plant-
ing of all fruit trees must be proceeded with, as any
delay might result in the trees being out of the
ground for weeks. After being planted, it is of
the utmost importance that all trees should be
correctly named. This will not only be found
of great assistance when gathering the fruit>.
but also a more intelligent interest will be taken
in their cultivation. Opportunity should also be
taken to examine the other trees and rename those
that require it.
Fruit Under Glass.
Strawberries. — The earliest batch of these
will now be commencing to grow, and may be
given slight bottom-heat. More than ordinary
care must be exercised in applying water to the
roots, as, so far as my experience goes, quite as
many plants die from an overdose as they do
from the other extreme. As a precautioi'i against
green fly. it might be as well to fumigate the
house, say twice, before the flowers open.
Melons. — A small batch of Melons should now
be sown, and as these are essentially sun-lovii.g
plants, the greatest care must be exercised in their
management in the earlier stages during these
sunless days. The seeds should be sown singly in
small pots and plunged in a hot-bed, and, as soon
as the young plants appear, they must be placed
in a position close to the glass, at least durmg the
daytime. John Highgate.
(Head-gardener to the Marquis of Linlithgow.)
Hopi'toitn Gardens, South Qucensfcrry, N.B.
December 26, 1914]
THE GARDEN.
625
EDITORIAL NOTICES.
Everi/ department of horticulture is represented in The
Garden, and the Editor invites readers to send in qiiestions
relating to matters upon tohich then uiish expert advice.
The Editor welcomes photographs, articles and notes,
but he mil not be responsible /or their safe return. All
reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps
are enclosed, he will endeavour to return non-accepted
contributions. .
As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the nauor
asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated.
It must be distinctly understood that only the actual photo-
grapher or owner of the copyright will be treated with.
■ The Editor will not be responsible for the return of artistic
or literan/ contributions which he may twl be able to use, and
the receipt of a proof must not be taken as emdenee that an
article is accepted. Publication in The Garden will alone
be recognised as acceptance.
Offices : 20, Tavistock Street, Corent Garden, W.C.
TO
ANSWERS
CORRESPONDENTS.
RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS.
QUESTIONS AND AVSVIERS.— The Editor endeavours to
make The Garden helpful to all readers loho desire assist-
ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and
with that object makes a special feature of the "Answers
to Correspondents " columns. All communications should be
clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only,
and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock
Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. The name and address
of the sender are required in addition to any designation he
may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one
query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper.
Plants for namitig should be clearly numbered and securely
packed in damp grass or moss, not cotton-ioool, and flotoerin
shoots, where possible, should be sent. It is useless to send
small scraps that are not characteristic of the plant. Letters
on business should be sent to the Publisher.
FLOWER GARDEN.
ERADICATING POLYGONUM POLYSTACHYUM
(B. H. W.). — The troublesomcnoss of several species
of this genus is due to the fact that they arc capable
of giving a new plant, not only from every scrap of root,
but in course of time from every node of every root ;
hence their aggressiveness and the difficulty of getting
rid of a ivcll-entrenched enemy. In the circumstances,
wa can only advise you to do what we have more than
once been compelled to do with that equally bad pest,
Gout-weed, viz., first dig out the whole of the soil of the :
affected area to a depth of 2J feet or more, and either I
treat the bottom mth weed killer at double strength
or insert a 6-inch-thick layer of gas-lime, lea-ving the hole
open meanwhile and covering the lime with a thin layer
of soil to retain the obnoxious fumes. This has the effect
of poisoning the soil below and killing any roots which
remain. If convenient, discard the excavated soil and
substitute it with fresh. If not, spread it out so thinly
that it can be overhauled and every vestige of root seen.
The former would be the simplest, and probably the least
costly too. As the plant has also invaded the path, it
might be necessary to treat this on similar lines, otherwise
you will be continually confronted by an enemy at front
and rear and both flanks as well. In exceptional cases
such as this, only the most drastic measures arc likely
to save the situation. Our sympathies are with you ;
we know the plant.
ROSE GARDEN.
PBUNING ROSES FIRST SEASON AFTER PLANTING
(A. O. S.). — You can retain the Penzance Briars almost
their full length, merely removing the extreme ends of the
shoots in March. In subsequent years cut one or more
of the oldest growths to the ground each spring. Ramblers
of the wichuraiana section, such as Dorothy Perkins,
need not be pruned the first year, but they would be all
the better in subsequent years if cut back to within
6 inches or 8 inches of the soil. Ramblers of the multiflora
section, such as Crimson Rambler, cut back to about
twelve inches in March. Climbing Teas and Hybrid
Teas, prune back to 2 feet in March. Dwarf Teas and
Hybrid Teas, prune at the end of March or early April to
within 4 inches or 5 inches of the ground, excepting strong
growers such as J. B. Clark and George Dickson. These
s^hould be retained about twelve inches to fifteen inches long.
You need not prune the Honeysuckle or Clematis montana.
C. Jackmannii should be cut back to within a foot of the
ground each year, unless you Avish it to attain a lofty
height, in which case do not prune, but you will have no
bloom low down. Rose Conrad F. Meyer, prune back to
about three feet. In subsequent years retain young g^o^\'ths
4 feet to 5 feet long, and cut out old wood freely close to
the ground.
THE GREENHOUSE.
TREATMENT OF PANDANUS VEITCHII (W. H.).—
This Pandanus does not require any special treatment
during the winter months, provided a suitable temperature
is maintained. Wo are inclined to think that your trouble
is caused by the plants being kept too cold. You say
they are kept in a temperature of about 65°. If that is
the day temperature, the night may well be 10° lower,
and that would be too cold, A minimum night tempera-
ture of 60° to 65° is necessary to keep this Pandanus in
good condition. If the thermometer is allowed to drop
too low during the night, this, combined with an excess
of atmospheric moisture, would cause the damage com-
plained of. The soil must, of course, be kept in a regular
state of moisture.
FRUIT GARDEN.
FRUIT SPRAYER (E. K B.). — We think that for general
purposes in a small garden a knapsack sprayer with a
pump is the most useful, the one you mention being
sc^^^ceable. but several others advertised in our columns
are also good. The best winter wash for cleansing frnit
trees is made by dissoUing 21b. of caustic soda in ten
gallons of water, but this vnW not cure Apple scab, and
Peach scale is better attacked by a wash containing paraffin.
To deal with Apple scab, take care to prune out all the
cracked or dead shoots and spurs during the winter, then
spray with Bordeaux mixture just before the buds burst,
and again just after the petals have fallen.
APPLES ROTTING (F. A. C.).— The Apples appear
to have become over-ripe and to have been over-charged
with water when they were picked. In seasons when a
dry spell is followed" by rain, the latter often happens.
No fungus or insect pest is, so far as we can see, associated
with the trouble.
APPLE FOR INSPECTION (F. S.).— The Apple is
apparently attacked by the fungus of brown rot, Sclerotinia
fructigena. If it persists in the trees during the winter
it mil probably kill many of the flowers, and it would
therefore be well to spray the trees with Bordeaux mixture
just before the buds open in spring. Remove and burn
all mummy fruits from the trees.
MISCELLANEOUS.
CATERPILLAR FOR NAMING (Q. W.).— The creature
sent is the caterpillar of the swift moth. It attacks and
feeds on the roots of various plants, especially fleshy
ones like those of the Preony. A soil fumigant might
drive it away, but the best preventive is to catch the
moths as they flit over the beds in June at dusk. Birds
devour the grubs readily when they are turned out in
digging, and many are "killed through the attack of a
fungus.
MOSS ON LAWN (A. IF.).— The best treatment for
your lawn after raking the moss out will be to give it a
good dressing of flne soil at once. This should be raked
about well wherever the soil is dry enough, in order that
it does not become beaten down. Do not rake it until
the grass is really vigorous in spring. A dressing of basic
slag and kainit can be applied aljout the beginning of
February at the rate of 31b. of the former and lib, of the
latter to the rod. A really good dressing of soil is often
efficacious in destroying moss.
NAME OF FRUIT.— £ £.— Ribston Pippin is correct.
BOOKS.
An American View of Garden Design.*—
America has taken to garden design with character-
istic vigour. Many of the universities give special
courses in landscape and formal design, and Miss
Humphreys' book is the outcome of college studies.
She discusses and illustrates every sort of equip-
ment and ornament for the garden, and gives
some useful advice vyhich needs to be heeded
as much in England as in the States. In her
catalogue of garden offences, three stand out
pre-eminently — the mixture of styles, the mixture
of materials, and the overcrowding of features.
She justly pleads with the garden-lover not to
set a Greek temple in a Japanese garden, not to
mingle solid stone ornaments with perishable
rustic work, and, above aU, to recognise the limi-
tations of space. A garden should not be a
museum of styles culled from every country
and century, but an organic unity in which every
element is justified by the degree in which it
contributes to a harmonious whole. Ignorance
in any art is a bad thing, but too much knowledge
may be worse if it stifles the reticence of careful
choice and if it fails to reject details of design
not mutually helpful.
•■■The Practical Book of Garden Architecture," by
Phebe Westco'.t Humphreys. Lippincott ; price 21s.
SOCIETIES.
ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.
Compared with the early December meeting, when the
great hall of the society at Vincent Square was redolent
of fruit and flowers of the finest description, this, the last
fortnightly show of the year, held on the 15th hist., was
thin indeed, though little below the normal at this season.
The outstanding feature was the flne bank of Euphorbias
(Poinsettias) from Edmonton, which, in scarlet and rose
colours, was most effective. Quite excellent, too, was the
well-grown, well-staged lot of Carnations from Hayward's
Heath, while winter-flowering Heaths of the soft-wooded
section were in more than one direction a great charm.
Brilliant masses of Azaleas demonstrated the responsive-
ness of these flowers to forcing, while Orchids were well
displayed by several leading Arms. Novelties were not
numerous, the floral committee granting awards of merit
to three, and the Orchid and the fruit and vegetable com-
mittees to one each.
Orchid Committee.
Present . J. Gurney Fowler, Esq. (chairman). Sir Harry
J. Veitch, and Messrs. J. O'Brien, Gurney Wilson, W.
Bolton, R. A. Rolfe, J. Wilson Potter, F. J. Hanbury, A.
McBean, Walter Cobb, .7. Charlesworth, J. Cypher, W. H.
Hatcher, W. P. Bound, J. E. Shill, C. H. Curtis, A.
Dye, W. H. White, S. W. Flory and Stuart H. Low.
"Messrs. James Cypher and Sons, Exotic Nurseries,
Cheltenham, exhibited a superb lot of Cypripediums, the
perfect condition of which — freshness, vigour, handsome,
well-developed flowers and the like — evidenced ideal
surroundings and high cultural excellence not always
seen. On the present occasion the choice assortment;
which gained a silver Flora medal, contained excellem
examples of leeanum Gratrixa;, 1. clinkaberryana. the
chaste white-flowered Boltonii, Priam (whose handsome
coloured dorsal sepal always appeals), Euryades splendens
(with rose-coloured dorsal sepal and handsomely developed
pouch). Queen Alexandra (which appeals by way of size
and fine pink dorsal sepal), together with such indis-
pensables as Thalia, Sanderse (the queen of the yellow
insignes), Harefleld Hall (bold and telling) and the
beautiful and distinct Actteus .Milky Way. These were
of outstanding merit.
Messrs. Stuart Low and Co., Enfleld, had very beautifu!
examples of Cattleya Fabia, C. labiata reedleyensis
(wliite, with orange tlu'oat), C. i. alba, C. moira rubescens
(a very charming bit of colour), the all-white Brasso-
Cattleya Queen Alexandra (with heavily fringed lip),
B.-C. Maronse (of a pleasing pink shade). Cypripedium
insigne Sanderae, C. callo-rothschildianum, Oncidium vari-
cosum and Yandas ctorulea and sanderiana. Silver
Banksian medal.
Messrs. Flory and Black, Langley, had some fine Odonto-
glossum crispum varieties and the very beautiful Lselio-
Cattleva Barbaro&sa variety (pink sepals and crimson lip)
and L.-C. Bola variety (with pinky white sepals and
crimson lip), both very charming and quite distinct.
From Baron Bruno Schroder, The Dc!l, Engleficld
Green, came a lovely example of Cypripedium Moonbeam
(a stnrdv-look-ing plant, with yellow pouch and petals and
white, green-shaded dorsal sepal). A freely flowered
specimen was shown. Odontoglossum crispum Leonard
Perfect was handsome and well grown, and merited the
cultural commendation awarded.
Mr. Walter Cobb, Horsham, showed a well-flowered
example of Odontoglossum percultnm Cobb's variety ,
which is very heavily blotched with dark chocolate.
Mr. J. T. Bennett-Poe, Cheshunt, had the very beautiful
pink-flowered Brasso-Cattleya Mme. C. Masson, in every
way a handsome and distinct hybrid.
Messrs. Sander and Sons. St. Albans, received a silver
Flora medal for a beautiful and interesting lot. the more
conspicuous being Lselio-Cattleya Bertha Fournier (of rich
ruby red tone). L.-C. Phoenix (-n-ith greenish sepals and
handsome, dark-coloured lip), Brasso-Cattleya Wotan
(pink), Odontoglossum cirrhosa ardentissimum (whose
pinky ground colour is copiously barred with chocolate),
the "very dark-coloured, if small-flowered. Odontioda
devoniaiia, the yellow-flowered Lycaste Youngii and
Zygopetalum JNIackayii.
Messrs. Charlesworth and Co., Hay^vard's Heath.
Sussex, were awarded a silver Flora medal for a group
containing many choice things, none, however, of greater
outstanding merit than the richly coloured, gracefully
arcliing spikes of Calanthe Veitchii or the handsome, pure
white of Miltonia bleuana. Both, too, were in force, and
showed well. In addition there were some fine Odonto-
glossums. notably O. armainvillierensis xanthotes (with
a great arching" raceme of pure white flowers) and
O. eximenm (handsome in size and heavily blotched
withal). LEelio-Cattleya Bella alba (white sepals and petals,
with crimson purple Up), L.-C. Cornelia (with yellowish
sepals, whose crimson lip is also heavily veined).
L:elia gouldiana (reddish), the old, though useful, Odonto-
glossum grande, and the miniature chaste white-flowered
Masdevallia tovarensis, with a variety of Cypripediums,
were .also noted in the group.
Floral Committee.
Present • H. B. May. Esq. (chairman), Messrs. E. A.
Bowles. J. Green, B. Crisp. B. C. Notcutt. W. J. Bean.
G. Reuthe, It. Hooper Pearson. J. Hudson, C. E. Fielder.
J. W. Moorman, J. Jennings, W. Howe, C. Dixon. T.
Stevenson, J. Dickson, F. W. Harvey, J. T. Bennett-Poe,
W. P. Thomson. E. H. Jenkins and G. Paul.
Jilcssrs. H. B. May and Sons. Edmonton, arranged a
floor group of well-grown Poinsettias. the examples of
21 feet high or thereabouts terminated by well-coloured
626
THE GARDEN.
[December 26. 1914.
heads o£ bracts, making a brilliant display. The arrange-
ment took the form of throe semi-cireular groups, two
of the brilliant P. pulcherrima, with a central one of the
new P p rosea, a charming addition to the group. Inter-
vening spaces were occupied by groups of Erica nivea,
E autunmalis, E. hyemalis, E, h, alba and others, and
while contrasting well with the main feature of the exhibit,
also afforded good variety. Begonias of the Gloirc dc
Lorraine set with Ferns of sorts, constituted a good
margin some beautifully grown specimens of Areca
lutcscens occupying the background. A handsome season-
able "roup. Silver Flora medal.
Messrs Wills and Segar, Onslow Crescent, South Ken-
sington displayed a table of greenhouse flowering plants,
of which the soft-wooded Heaths were among the more
important. Of these, E. melanthera, E. hyemalis and
E iiivea were all in well-flowered bushes and very beautiful
.at this season of the year. Begonia Gloire de Lorraine
and some delightful bushes of Azaleas as full of flower
as in May and in one or two varieties also added charm
to the group. Orange trees in fruit were also good. Silver
Flora medal, ■ t ,
Mr Clarence Elliott, Stevenage, had a pretty variety of
alpines, chieflv of Saxifrages and Sedums, together with
flowers of Gentiana and many miniature-growing shrubs
suited to rock gardening. Among these, Camphorosma
raonspeliensis was mo?t interesting,
Messrs Allwood Brothers, Hayward s Heath, had a
most delightful gathering of Perpetual-flowering Carnations
—certainly one of the most charming and varied staged
by this firm during the present season. Among the more
beautiful and distinct were Fau-mount (heliotrope).
Gorgeous (cerise), Mandarin (fancy), Mary Allwood (one
of the most shapely of winter-flowering sorts) Peerless
(a flne cerise), JIrs, C, F, Raphael, Wivelsfleld White
(very pure and beautiful), Ilosette (deep cerise) and
Triumph (deep crimson). Silver Banksian medal,
Mr 6 lleuthe, Keston, set up a variety of hardy plants,
chiefly alpines not in flower, though winter-flowermg
Crocuses were very beautiful, 01 these, C. marathomsius,
C iKvicatus (purple and mauve) and C. hyemalis were
verv flue. Iris Histrio, white and red Lapagerias
(cut from the open). Snowdrops and a charming lot of
Erica inediterranea hybrida were all good,
Messrs Wells and Co,, Limited, Merstham, set up
vases of Chrvsanthemums, Carnations and the pink-
flowered Snapdragon Nelrose, the latter very pretty at
this season. Of the Carnations, Pink Sensation, Champion
(scarlet), Red Benora and Aviator (scarlet) were very good.
Chrysanthemum Richmond, rich yellow (see "New and
Rare Plants"), was also in this group. Bronze Flora
Messrs Stuart Low and (3o„ Enfield, in addition to
wiiiter-flowering Begonias, as Optima, Exguisite, Elatior
and others, showed Cyclamen in variety and a goodly
"rouping of Acacia platyptera, the latter with globular
bosses of flowers. In another du-ection Messrs, Low
staged Carnations of excellent quality, of which Premier
(yellow), Triumph (crimson). Satin Robe, Salmon
Enchantress, Mrs, Mackay Edgar (flne pink), Mrs C, F,
Raphael (very large), Mary Allwood and Gorgeous (cerise)
were the more imposing. The group was most tastefully
arranged. Silver Banksian medal.
The Misses Hopkins, Shepperton, showed made-up
boxes of alpines similar to those exhibited at the last
meeting. They were rather interesting. Gentians, Cam-
panulas, Saxifrages and Sedums were all included,
Messrs W, Cutbush and Son, Highgate, S., displayed
a tabic "^oup of Erica hyemalis alba, Daphne indica rubra,
Cvclamen in variety. Erica autumnalis. Begonia Gloire
de Lorraine, together with retarded Lilies and other
plants. Silver Banksian medal.
Messrs. J. Piper and Sons, Bayswater, displayed a large
table of Azaleas in variety, together with soft-wooded
Heaths handsome Palms, Crotons and Ferns, The
exhibit was of an extensive as well as an attractive
nature. Silver Flora medal.
Mr. L. P^. Russell, Richmond, had a large circular
"roup of Begonia Glohc dc Lorraine and its sports, the
whole of the plants in well-flowered examples. In another
direction Mr. Russell exhibited a big group of chiefly
berry-bearin" shrubs, as Skimmia, Pernettya mucronata
in variety Aucuba vera. Arbutus Unedo, Cratajgus
(Pyiacantiia) angustifolia (with orange-coloured fruits),
Ciarrya elliptica and its variety fcemina, with Euonymuses,
Ivies and other things. Silver Flora medal.
Fruit and Vegetable Committee.
Present : A. H. Pearson, Esq. (chairman), and iMi-ssrs.
J Cheal W. J. Jeffries, W. Bates, Edwin Beckett, A. R,
Allan, H Markham, H. J. Wright, E. A. Bunyard, A.
Bullock, Owen Thomas, John Harrison, W. Poupart.
J. Willard, James Gibson, George Keif and P. i>. Tuckett.
The exhibits before this committee were exceedingly
limited, and consisted of dishes of fruits entered for award.
The only variety attaining to this honour was Winter
Eibston, from Messrs. G. Bunyard and Co.. Maidstone.
In appearance it favours a small Blenheim, with the brisk
flavour of the Ribston, Apple Joflre-French, a highly
built, conicallv inclined, golden-skinned fruit, and Apple
Lord Kitchener, having somewhat of the form and size
of a Bramlcy's Seedling, came from Mr. W. Palmer,
Andover, Hants. Neither, however, appealed from the
attractive point of view, or, judged by results, from the
usually applied tests at the table. A tray of fruits ol
Wellington, showing the spotting to which this excellent
late-cooking kind is prone, was also on view. The source
whence it came was not displayed
Thomas Bevan presiding. The secretary presented the
Ihiancial statement, which seemed to give general approval,
for it was passed unanimously. All items of expenditure
will be paid up to the end of the year out of current
receipts, and consequently there \ViU be no necessity,
as was anticipated, of falling back on the reserve fund.
The accounts and report for 1914 will be printed for
circulation at the annual meeting, which will be held at
Carr's Restaurant, Strand, on February 1 next at 7 p,m.
It was resolved that the usual shows be held in 1915,
at the Crystal Palace if possible ; but if not there, it is
hoped that the society will be able to make other arrange-
ments. This cannot be decided until it is known how
the Crystal Palace may bo affected by war requirements.
The following are the dates for the meetings of the executive
committee next season, viz,, September 20, October 18,
November 15 and December 13, 1915, and January 17,
1916, The floral committee mil meet in 1915 on the
dates following : September 20, October 4, IS and 25,
November 3, 15 and 29, and December 8.
On January 13 the floral committee's dinner will be held
at the Old Burton Tavern, Cheapside. An invitation is
cordially extended to members of the other committees
and their friends. Mr. D. B. Crane, as chairman of the
floral committee, pointed out that they had had eight
meetings, at which no fewer than 103 novelties had been
submitted. He felt they would all agree that they had
thus helped to keep alive the interest in the Chrysanthe-
mum during a period of exceptional difficulty. Much care
had been exercised in making the awards, for to-day a
much higher standard of excellence in all sections is
demanded. The registration fees amounted to £5 3s.,
an important addition to the funds of the society.
After an interesting and lively informal discussion
concerning singles, disbudded and in spray form, the
meeting closed.
NATIONAL CHRYSANTHEMUM SOCIETY,
The executive commiitee of this society held i meeting
on Monday, the 14th inst., at Carr's Eesfaurant, .Mr.
CROYDON AND DISTRICT HORTICULTURAL
SOCIETY.
" The Wonders of a Green Leaf " was the title of an
illustrated lecture given by Mr. C. H. Curtis before the
members of the Croydon and District Horticultural
iMutual Improvement Society at their last meeting, held
.-it the Surrey Hotel, George Street. It was as an old
friend that Mr. Curtis was received by his audience,
for he has met this society on more than one occasion,
and Lis genial manner wins for him the highest esteem
from all members of the gardening profession. The
casual observer looks upon the green leaf in an uninterested
manner. It simply comes v.ithin his range of vision,
and it has appeared year after year, and will continue to
do so as long as theworld lasts. But when we stop to
consider and search into the important functions they
possess for the well-being of mankind, it is then we find
the wonderful part the leaves play in the economy of
Nature. Among their many uses the principal is as a
source of food to man and beast, and the lecturer aptly
described their position as standing between living beings
and starv,ition. In other ways they are useful to us,
especially in their chemical coiistituents. The healing
medicine concocted from the herbs, or the deadly poison
distilled from the leaves, each has its uses for man. Leaves
afford shelter for man, beast and bird ; they emit a sweet
fragrance, and they inhale the carbonic acid gas given
off by animals, retaining the carbon for their own nutrition
and allowing the oxygen to escape purifled. Then, again,
how much do they add to the beauty of our landscapes.
Remove them and we have a desolate tract, A leaf of
a plant illustrates the great forces of energy contained
between its cuticles, and energy without noise. Walk
through a field of Cabbages composed entirely of leaves,
and one can imagine the vast energies displayed in raising
itself from the small seed to the matured plant. In
Nature's adaptability it has not forgotten the environ-
ment of its subjects. For instance, in most of our trees
the leaves have a flat surface spread out to catch the
sun's rays, an all-powerful element for the well-being of
the plant. Leaves are placed one above the other to
serve as a means of distributing moisture. It may be
noted also that while some leaves turn outwards from
the plant, as the Horse Chestnut, there are others which
turn towards the main stem, such as the Rhubarb and
the Bccl. Plants of this class are not branching, and
Tc(|uire tlieir moisture nearer to the stem. In arid, dry
atmosphires leaves of plants are thicker, like the Cactus.
■Pliese lia\e their special construction to enable them to
conserve moisture for longer periods, The classiflcation
of trees is deciduous (trees wirich cast off their leaves
annuallv) and evergreen". In each illustration on the
screen the lecturer showed a picture composed entirely
of leaves or leafy plants, pleasing to the sight and restful
to the mind. In concluding his discourse, he spoke of
the wonders of a green leaf in supplying — in Ruskin's
words — "trees for the builder's yard, flowers for the
bride's chamber, corn for the granary, moss for the gravi ."
The audience tendered heartiest thanks to lir. Curtis
for such an excellent lecture. Several exhibits of flowers
ivcre staged by .Messrs. W. Coles, J, Dingwall, R. Oatley
and G. Scriveii^-. and added iiitcTcst to the evening.
VALE OF LEVEN AND DUMBARTON HORTI-
CULTURAL ASSOCIATION.
■|'HK rilOI'AUATlON OF PLANTS.
At tin- usual monthly inciting of this society. Iield at the
Public Hall, Alexandria, on December 9, Mr. A. Hosking,
Horticultural Organiser of the West of Scotland Agri-
cultural College, delivend a most instructive and inter-
I'sting lecture on "The Propagation of Plants by Seeds,
Cuttings, Layers, Budding and Grafting." In the course
of his address he said that the propagation of plants was
an interesting phase of gardening. In dealing with the
importance of a propagating-house, his remarks wen-
very much enhanced by the diagram which was tlirown
on the screen, while he also illustrated the principles
of a sound and well-built greenhouse. In dealing with
seed propagation, ilr. Hosking pointed out the vast
difference of seed propagation by Nature and that under-
gone with the skilled hands of the gardener. In the
first instance the seed was, when ripe, blown round and
about the original plant and propagated. Instead of
having, as before, one plant, a great many had appeared.
Such self-sowing plants were a nuisaiiee in .-^onie respects
as when they are left alone they make the border present
an unsightly appearance. The gardener has overcome
this nuisance by being able to harvest his seed, thus
planting or propagating at his own will. Another item
wliieh should not be overlooked is to take care not to
overcrowd the seedlings that have Ijeen planted in pots
or boxes. Overcrowding is detrimental to the plant's
growth. Dealing with cuttings, he pointed out the best
method to adopt, and with customary care there should
be few failures. For instance, with the Honeysuckle,
like many more plants, it is advisable to take a half-
ripened shoot and strike it in July or August. He next
demonstrated the importance of placing a bell-glass
ovtT some of the harder-struck cuttings. With Ericas
this was a good plan to adopt, but care must be exercised
in wiping the interior of the bell-glass every day, as a
vast amount of moisture collects quickly on the glass.
The propagation of leaves was next spoken of, and
Malaxis paludosa seems to be easily propagated in this way .
Severing the leaf from the old plant and planting it in
a damp situation, it will in time form itself into a flne
plant. Gloxinias can be propagated in a similar manner
if the veinwork is cut. Stoneerops, too. if taken with a
bud attached to the base of the leaf, will give sati.--
faction. The layering of Rhododendrons. Carnations,
Ac, occupied some time to explain. Here mention
was mad