a ¥ . ' . eng Lenn . ’ ra ; . . = 4 ' Lab nd “4 ee et | ” ony ae ‘one * eal " ve Ay f , a winady te Py eeannta Never sr) War y= wal mit “vow ae : shaltet ik Sy sak alle tim alee weal TS i ieiiee italien i eine elie ais me: eee oe, be eran un ee Lon re. A i . co a" od + id os “ J * ee ary = as % , = = , - = a ar 2 4 a Pia yee L- a ae 7 » car 7) = Tis ave r RS he Aw Gardening for Pleasure. A GUIDE TO THE AMATEUR IN THE FRUIT, VEGETABLE, AND FLOWER GARDEN, WITH FULL DIRECTIONS FOR THE GREENHOUSE, CONSERVATORY, AND WINDOW-GARDEN. C BY PETER HENDERSON, AUTHOR OF ‘GARDENING FOR PROFIT,’’ AND ‘‘ PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE,” JERSEY CITY HEIGHTS, N. J. ILLUSTRATED. NEW YORE: ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, | 245 BROADWAY. 1880. ' Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1875, by the ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. CONTENTS. _ Introduction........ ere mere etre Soe em fo ain oan ache one ~ 10 CHAPTER III ee PENSMRE TR SEIHEMEE <5 > po 52-6 aos = cee wee) Swe aedies Woe tenes ees 13 CHAPTER IV ee ee a to ee ee rer 14 ! CHAPTER V _ Manures............ .......---+-+-- Maebnas PELE Se Se Oe eee ee 16 a CHAPTER VI. a a enemmmmeminettes! Wertuizers . : 2-2. fc. f.5 5 ono tan ne sae eee eee ene 18 = : CHAPTER VIL. > Special Fertilizers for Particular Plants...................22.2222 22+ eeeeeee 21 aa CHAPTER VIII. a The Lawn......: ee ee ds eugene. see Meee wk te eee eS 22 = ‘CHAPTER IX. sees ee eee eee ee sree ee eeteseeessee sss sees eeseezreeteeeserserFeenese IV GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. CHAPTER XVII. Treatment of Tropical Bulbs, Seeds, etc.--. _-...-._ eee ee 57 : CHAPTER XVIII. The Potting of Plants. ............6.- 02-02. ees ee 60 CHAPTER XIx Winter Flowering Plants.....-.: 2.:...2--:-- seen 25) cE nee 62 CHAPTER XX. Unhealthy Plants—The Remedy.....c....... -.coeges sega 67 CHAPTER see Plants Suited for Summer Decoration... 2 = "gece eee 69 CHAPTER XXII Hanging Baskets... .. 5s. sou. 2:02 sos aS ee 72 CHAPTER XXIII Window Gardening. ... 0... 0.2 --3 a.22s-n = ee eee 75 CHAPTER XXIV. Parlor Gardening, or the Cultivation of Plants in Rooms.................... 77 CHAPTER XXyV. Wardian Cases, Ferneries, Jardinieres. ... <<. 2... 2... 2s sees eee aPeae s “ CHAPTER XXYVI. Winter-Forcing the Lily of the Valley .-.=..-2.2.2_3- 2 eee ee, he aa 84 CHAPTER XXVIL. Greenhouses Attached to Dwellings..................... ate aiieiiiaies ane a ate 87 CHAPTER XXVIIL. A Detached Greenhouse or Grapery ..2..-...-- 2 eee 90 CHAPTER XXIX Heating by Hot Water.... ..-..2.... .. i ee 95 CHAPTER XXX. Greenhouse or Pits Without Artificial Heat_..- 5.) ee 98 CHAPTER XXXI. Combined Cellar and Greenhouse. ......:.....5..... eee 99 CHAPTER XXXII. Hot-Beds 12... 05... se ewae coach see c cncate suas 2 ee 102 CHAPTER XXXIII. Shrubs, Climbers, and Trees... . -.... .J..c22 0 1 104 CHAPTER XXXIV. Hardy Herbaceous Perennials. .-...... 2.2. oo 107 ) CHAPTER XXxV Annnal Flowering Plants ;... ... 2 22 eee - asim a aiaaieeie Brae Shee as 1a CHAPTER XXXVI. Flowers which will Grow in the Shade Insects y ie ; CONTENTS. Vv CHAPTER XXXVIII - DRS an ee ae Gein ees wed satewies ot 120 CHAPTER XXXIX. I aa iw hoe areca dame nene Vaucedaaicd & secceer 121 CHAPTER XL aa, EI SS ee 122 CHAPTER XLI. Are Plants in Rooms Injurious to Health....... ........ eM BIO Aa Rea 124 CHAPTER XLII ee rin a Cee wives wclcdae «cma sred ve aiacevacecccecc cs 125 CHAPTER XLII. =e uaw Of Colors in Flowers.......... ........... gr a ee 128 CHAPTER XLIV ee coat wale haf wa oo 8d week elie cacenaes Wee cccencnk 133 CHAPTER XLV EE Es eg Son yale cis nueva Pee con oewe lace. 138 a : CHAPTER XLVI ns eo ccs oni coe coe We ev bev kbc owe nek ccccecch 144 CHAPTER XLVII. Seeeeenneme Gr Porcine Grapery..... 026. . s w e en eenc ccc ceece cece 150 CHAPTER XLVIII I Sede esi cro inms pwn dejan a w'sigio vnc pins oSGece's dele selene 153 | 3 CHAPTER XLIX. Se @otmge-Gardening—A Digression............-.2. 0... .ec eee eee eeee cece ieee 1%5 a CHAPTER L. PEMEERIanCARCT. ....- 0. ---- 24-220 c+ eer nee neeccecnccsscuccccecceececs 177 ys CHAPTER LI ‘ Garden Implements cg ee: Phot megma ran tolista mle) sla atin 6 ele Me aie aie taers w cis cieXow «hs 223 Semarithiy Calendar of Operations..................----scseecceecececccsscseces 234 rer oDpUCTION. [have endeavoredin writing ‘‘ Gardening for Pleasure,” to divest it, as faras I was competent to do so, of the technical terms and phrases which professional gar- deners use in writing or talking on matters relating to horticulture ; and to use the plainest language at my command in describing the simplest methods of culture. Whether I have succeeded in making the subject as clear as I have desired to do, those who read the work must decide. My aim in writing the book was to make it such as would be useful to the occupant of a city lot, or to the possessor of a few window plants, as well as to the owner of a country residence that is fully appointed in all mat- ters relating to the cultivation of flowers, fruits, and vegetables. ‘I'he necessity for such a book has been made evident to me by the inquiries from hundreds of ama- teurs in gardening ; inquiries to many of which neither of my previous works, (‘‘Gardening for Profit,” or “* Practical Floriculture,’”’) furnished proper replies; the one being written mainly for information of the vegetable market gardener, and the other for the commercial florist. PETER HENDERSON. _ JERSEY City, N. J., Oct., 1875. ay = td ce ae . ps oe Gardening for Pleasure. CHAPTER I. a er ae a -~ Pa — ~ 2 ‘ ‘ ~ — ~ io ‘ . af EER RIED Be E54 SN ERP Oe Cpe og sa ry = SOIL AND LOCATION. It is rare in determining the site for a residence, that the soil is taken into consideration, and in consequence, we sometimes find that the garden surrounding the house presents a barren appearance, that nothing can remedy short of the placing a foot of good soil over the whole surface. This condition is not so often due to the natural poverty of the soil, as caused by grading off the surface soil, or by filling up to the desired grade _-with the material thrown out in excavating the cellars, : or other subsoil, clay, or gravelly material, and placing these over the soil intended for the garden. This is often done for the convenience of contractors, to the great injury of the proprietor, without either being. aware of the bad results: As a good soil will tend more than all else to give satisfactory results in garden opera- _ tions, it is all important to secure it. When discretion _ can be used in deciding on a location, one should be _ chosen that has naturally a suitable soil, rather than to attempt to make it so by carting a foot of good soil over the bad, which would be found not only very expensive, but in many situations, next to impracticable. I have (9) = PAPEL AGE de MB ea 10 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. before said, in some of my writings on this subject, that the soil best suited for all garden purposes, is what is known ag “‘sandy loam,” not less than ten inches deep, overlying a subsoil of sand or gravel. Such a soil rarely requires drainage, is easier worked, and gives bet- ter results than that known as “clayey loam,” which overlays a putty-like subsoil of blue or yellow clay, which must be drained thoroughly before a seed is sown or plant set out, or there will be no satisfactory reward for the labor. The location, if choice can be made, should be such as will allow the garden to slope gently, (say one foot in a hundred), to the south or south-east, and if protected by hills or timber to the north-west, so much the better. If not protected naturally, a hedge of Hemlock Spruce, or Norway Firs, planted on the northern and western side of the site intended for the garden, would be of great advantage. These evergreens can be bought from 2 to 3 feet high, at from $15 to $25 per 100; and should be planted according to size, from 2 to 3 feet apart, making a cheap and ever improving screen or fence, which may be trimmed to any required hight or thickness. | CHAPTER ~ TE DRAINAGE. As drainage will be in many instances indispensable to, success, I will briefly state a few of the simplest methods that may be adopted, premising that it is utterly useless to expect to cultivate any soil satisfactorily that does not freely and rapidly carry off the surface water. An expert in soils can determine almost to a certainty by digging down two or three feet, whether or not a soil ie is By er DRAINAGE. § requires drainage, but the safest guide for the inexperi- _ encedis to judge by the growing crops in his neighbor- hood. If on a similar soil good crops of corn, pota- toes, or hay, are found on undrain- ed soil, then it is certain there is no necessity to drain, for no matter how cultivated, or how heavily ma- < == nured land is, there can never bea \ \-== _ good crop raised in any season, if — the soil is water-logged. If the a place to be drained is of large ex- 2 tent, and the ground nearly level, it will always be safer to call in the services of an engineer to give the proper levels and indicate the necessary fall, which should never be less than half a foot in the hundred, and if more can be had, so much the better. In heavy, clayey soils, we make our lateral drains three feet deep and fifteen feet apart, where there is less clay in the subsoil, we make them from twenty to thirty feet apart, and four feet Jeep. If stones are plenty on the ground, they may be profitably used in filling up the excavated ditch to halt its depth, as shown in figure 1, and which is known as a rubble drain, using the larger stones at the bottom, and i i ——— : LSS Fig. 2.—HORSE-SHOE DRAIN-TILE. _ smaller at top, and covering over with inverted sods, to _ keep the soil from being washed in among the stones, and thus choking up the drain. But when they can be _ obtained at reasonable price, the best and most durable draining is that done by tiles. It makes but little dif- _ ference whether the tile used is the round with collars, é | = 12 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. or the horse-shoe ; we rather prefer the latter, particu- larly if the bottom of the drain is ‘‘ spongy ;” we then use a board for the bottom of the drain, as shown in fig- ure 2. This board is a common one of hemlock or spruce, cut in four pieces; it is ripped through the mid- dle, and then these parts split in two, making boards of five inches wide by half an inch in thickness, thus making the common hemlock board stretch out to. a length of fifty feet. It is often a very troublesome mat-— ter to get the few drain tiles necessary to drain a small garden, and in such cases an excellent and cheap substi- tute can be had by using one of boards. Take ordinary rough boards, pine, hemlock, or spruce, and cut them into widths of three or four inches, nail them together so as to Fig. 8.—TRIANGULAR BOARD DRAIN. form a triangular pipe, as represented in figure 3, taking care to ‘‘ break the joints” in putting the lengths to- gether; care must be taken that the boards are not nailed together too closely, else they might swell so as to prevent the water passing into the drain to be carried off. ‘These drains are usually set with a flat side down, but they will keep clear better, if put with a point down, though it is more trouble to lay them. Drains made in this way will last much longer than might be supposed. Last season I came across some wooden drains that I had put down over twenty years before, and they seemed sound enough to last twenty years longer. PREPARATION OF THE GROUND. 15 CHAPTER III. PREPARATION OF THE GROUND After draining, (if draining is necessary), comes the preparation of the soil. Presuming that the ground where the new garden is to be made is an open space, clear of trees or other obstructions, there is no cultiva- tion so cheap and yet so thorough, as plowing and ‘har- rowing. ‘T’o do this properly, the ordinary plow should be followed by the subsoil plow, stirring the subsoil up about fifteen inches deep, so that the water will pass through to the drains, natural or artificial, freely. After the plow and subsoiler, follows the harrow, which should be weighted, so that the teeth sink six inches into the soil, in order to completely pulverize it. In Europe, it would be considered sacrilege to use a plow or harrow in the preparation of a private garden, and most of old- country gardeners among us will stand aghast at such ad- vice, but I have been through all parts of the work, and am well satisfied, from no limited practice, that plowing and harrowing will not only do the work at one-fourth of the cost, but in a better manner than the ordinary digging or trenching with the spade. Let me here cau- tion that great care be taken never to plow, dig, harrow, rake, or hoe ground when wet; if work must be done, pull out weeds, or set plants, if you will, but never, under any circumstances, stir the soil in preparation for a crop until it is dry enough not to clog. If stirred while wet, the particles stick together, and the crop is not only in- jured for the season, but in some soils the bad effects show for years, 14 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. CHAPTER IV. WALKS. It is no unusual thing to see the owner of a neat cot- tage make himself perfectly ridiculous by the way in which he lays out the walk from the street to his front door. There is a prevailing opinion that such walks should be curved ones, and gentlemen, often otherwise shrewd and intelligent, place themselves without question in the hands of some self-styled ‘‘garden architect,” and thus manage to make themselves the laughing stock of a neighborhood. There was a well marked instance of this in a garden occupying a block in almost the cen- ter of Jersey City, where a man pretending to have a full knowledge of the subject, induced the proprietor to have a walk running about one hundred yards from the street to the house, made so curved that its length was nearly twice that distance. It was hard on the butcher’s and grocer’s boys, and it was said that even book-peddlers and sewing-machine agents, and lightning-rod men, looked ruefully at it and left him in peace. Some old authority on this subject says, that there ‘‘never should be any deviation from a straight line unless from some real or apparent cause.” So if curved lines are insisted on, a tree, rock, or building must be placed at the bend as a reason for going around such obstacles. It will be evi- dent to any one who reflects upon the matter, that a curved walk running a distance of a hundred yards or so, from the street to the house, across an unplanted lawn, is utterly absurd. All short foot-walks from the street to the house should be straight, entering from the street at as near right angles as possible, and leading direct to the front door. There should be no necessity for a carriage road to the front entrance of a house, unless it is distant td WALKS. 15 at least 100 feet from the street, and then a drive is best made by having an entrance at each side of the lot, as given in figure 4, presuming that the width of the ground is 500 feet, and the distance from street to the front door is 150 feet. Even here the foot-walk should be direct. The width of the roads or walks must be governed by the extent of the grounds. For carriage- - way the width should not be less than ten feet, and for foot-walks, five feet. Nothing is more annoying than to have a shower-bath in early morning from the dew from ‘ HOUSE i ——al STREET Fig. 4.-APPROACH TO A HOUSE—DRIVE AND PATH. an overhanging branch in your narrow walk. We often see gardens of considerable pretentions where the walks are not more than three feet wide, where it is utterly im- possible for two persons to walk abreast without getting their dresses torn or faces scratched by overhanging branches. JBesides, it argues a narrowness in the owner, particularly if the grounds are at all extensive, and looks as if he were determined to cultivate every available foot of land. Of course it is another matter when the garden plot is limited to the width of a city lot, (20 or 25 feet) ; then such economy of space is per- fectly excusable. The character of the soil must in a great measure determine the manner of making the road. _Eyery one must have noticed that after a heavy rain, un- payed streets in some districts remain next to impassable for many hours, while in others, after the same amount 16 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. of rain, the roads will seem firm and comparatively dry. In the former all carriage roads, and even foot-walks, to haye any satisfaction from them, should have their founda- tions formed something like that shown in figure 5; this gives thorough drainage for the water at each side, and a depth of from one foot at center to two feet on sides of rubble stone and gravel to form the bed of the road or walk ; but in — or eae soils, paca which the a RPA oe Sees Sats SESE LS Fig. 5.—SECTION OF ROAD WITH DRAIN EACH SIDE. water passes quickly, no such expense is necessary, as an equally good road may be made by five or six inches of gravel. In foot-walks on such soils, | have found that three or four inches of gravel. mixed with one fourth its bulk of cement to ‘‘bind,” when watered and well rolled, makes an excellent smooth walk, and one in which, be- cause of its hardness, there is no trouble with weeds. CHAPTER 2X. MANURES. Whether one wishes to cultivate vegetables, fruits, or flowers, all soils, to give good results, sooner or later need manure ; this is more particularly the case with what are known as ‘‘ vegetables,” these being usually quick grow- ing, succulent plants. No ‘‘fertilizer” answers so well for all purposes as thoroughly decayed stable manure, whether from horse or cow stable, it makes but little dif- ference, except that that from the horse stables is best suited for heavy soils, while that from the cow-stables . s MANURES. 47 suits best for light soils. The quantity used for vegeta- bles should not be less than would cover the whole sur- face of the ground at least three inches deep, and it should be mixed with the soil as thoroughly as possible by plowing or spading. In the absence of stable manure, recourse must be had to concentrated fertilizers, the best of which are Peruvian guano and bone dust. Here a word of caution is necessary as to the quantity to be used; as their fertilizing qualities are concentrated, instead of being diffused asin stable manure; if either guano or bone dust, or fertilizers of similar character, come di- rectly in contact in large quantities, with the roots of plants, it injures them beyond remedy, hence in the use of these the necessity for caution. In our large field practice in vegetable growing, we use about 2,000 lbs. per acre of guano, sowing it on the surface of the ground after plowing, and then harrowing it in so as to mix it with the soil to the depth of five or six inches. Now, as there are 4,840 square yards in an acre, it will be seen that something more than half a pound of guano or bone dust is required for every square yard of surface to be fertilized. This quantity will just nicely cover the surface, about as thick as the sand on a sanded floor; after spreading on the dug surface, it should be mixed with the soil with a spading fork or long-toothed rake to the depth of five or six inches, bearing in mind that the more thoroughly it is mixed with the soil the better will be the result. If used in “‘hills” for corn, tomatoes, melons, etc., the same proportionate quantity is to be applied, and the mixing must be equally thorough. 18 | GARDENING FOR PLEASURE, CHAPTER VI HOW TO USE CONCENTRATED FERTILIZERS. Whatever kind of concentrated fertilizer may be used, I find it well repays the labor to prepare it in the follow- ing manner: to every bushel of fertilizer, add three bush- els of either leaf-mold (from the woods), well pulverized muck, sweepings from a paved street, or—in the absence of either of the above—common garden soil. In every case the material employed must be as dry as it is possi- ble to procure it. When guano is used, be careful to have it thoroughly pulverized and broken up before mix- ing with the other ingredients. The fertilizer must be well mixed with the soil or mold used by turning it at least twice. ‘This mixing should be done in winter, or early spring, and the material packed away in barrels in a dry place for at least a month before using it. The main object of this operation is for the better separation and division of the fertilizer, so that when applied, it can be more regularly distributed over the land ; besides this, no doubt the fertilizing qualities of the leaf-mold or other substance are developed by this treatment. Ex- periment has shown that this method of using concentra- ted fertilizers of nearly all kinds, materially increases their value. One of the most successful market-garden- ers in our neighborhood, has adopted this method for years, and in extensive experiments with different kinds of fertilizers, with and without being mixed, finds a say- _ ing of quite one-third in quantity in thus treating them. He finds that 1,200 lbs. of guano, mixed with two tons of garden soil, and sown over the surface after plowing, and then harrowed in, is equal in effect to 2, 000 lbs. of guano used without mixing. HOW TO USE CONCENTRATED FERTILIZERS. 19 (i snes tis aaa, i. . _ We have ourselves experimented with guano, blood -and bone, and bone flour, with nearly like results, and as a top dressing for grass, we think the advantage of mix- ing is eyen more marked. When fertilizers are applied to corn, potatoes, tomatoes, etc., in hills or drills, it is not only more economical to mix in this manner, but much safer in inexperienced hands ; for when any strong fertilizer is used pure, injury is often done to the roots by their coming in contact with it in too great quantity in the raw state, owing to imperfect mixing in the hill or drill, while, if composted as advised above, the danger is much less. We are often asked as to the quantity to be applied to different garden crops. Taking guano as a basis, we would recommend for -all vegetable crops, if earliness and good quality are desired, the use of not less than 1,200 lbs. per acre, (an acre contains 4,840 square yards, and cultivators for private use can easily estimate from this the quantity they require for any area), mixed with two tons of either of the materials recommended. This quantity is used broadcast by sowing on the ground aiter plowing, and deeply and thoroughly harrowing in, or if in small gardens, forked in lightly with the prongs of a garden fork or long toothed steel rake. When ap- plied in hills or drills, from 100 to 300 lbs. should be used to the acre, according to the distance of these apart, mixing with soil, etc., as already directed. In regard to which of the fertilizers is most desirable, we find but little difference, provided each is pure. Gu- ano at $80 per ton, is relatively as cheap as blood and bone fertilizer at $65; bone flour at $50, or superphos- phate at $40 ; for in the lower priced articles we find we are obliged to increase the quantity to obtain the same results, so that the cost is nearly alike whichever be used. The all important point is the purity of the arti- cle, a matter that few working farmers or gardeners ever attempt to decide except by the results in culture, hence os ° a _ 20 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. we advise each one who has been using a fertilizer that has proved satisfactory, to experiment but lightly with another until the new article has proved its merits. The competition in the manufacture of articles so much in use as fertilizers, has in many instances forced down prices below tue point at which they can be produced in a pure state, hence the widespread adulteration with “< salt cake,” ‘‘ plaster,” and other articles utterly worth- | less but to make weight. Next in meanness to the quack that extracts money from a poor consumptive for his vile — nostrums, is the man who compels the poor farmer or gardener, may be a thousand miles away struggling for an existence, to pay freight on the sand mixed with his guano, or the plaster in his bone dust. In this relation I am reminded of a retribution that fell on the ‘‘ Sands —— of Life man,” who figured so conspicuously a few years — ago in New York. The advertisement of this philan- | thropic gentleman, it will be remembered, was that “A — retired clergyman whose Sands of Life had nearly run | out,” would for a consideration tell how the ‘‘ running out ” could be stopped in others. A kind hearted fellow in Illinois, deeply sympathizing with the old gentleman on account of his loss of ‘‘ sand,” sent him by express— but forgot to prepay—a thousand pounds of the &rticle ! It is reported that the ‘‘ retired clergyman ” on opening the cask, expressed himself in a manner not only ungrate- ful, but utterly unclerical. We counsel no vengeance, but if some of these sand-mixing guano men could have the sand sifted out by their victims with compound in- terest added, and returned to them under the fostering care of an express company, it would be but even handed justice, ‘ SPECIAL FERTILIZERS FOR PARTICULAR PLANTS. 21 CHAPTER VII. SPECIAL FERTILIZERS FOR PARTICULAR PLANTS. A man called at my office a few years ago with some dozen bottles as samples of special manures, indispensa- ble, he said, as fertilizers for certain kinds of plants. He had those with him that he claimed to be specially prepared for cabbage, corn, potatoes, wheat, grass, lawns, beets, etc., etc. He even invaded Flora’s realm, and de- clared that his nostrum for roses was a specific for any © languid capers of this sometimes rather coquettish queen of flowers. His own arguments, which were rather plausible and glibly uttered, were backed up by numer- ous certificates—authentic, | have no doubt—where his *‘potato fertilizer” had worked wonders with some, with others his ‘‘ corn manure” had been of undoubted benefit, and so on all through the list. Now, I have no reason to say that the vender of these fertilizers was a quack, except the broad fact, gathered from an experience of thirty years, that has shown me that it makes but little difference with what fertilizer a crop is treated, provided the soil is properly pulverized and the fertilizer applied in proper proportions according to its strength. Had all his separate kinds of fertilizers been taken from the same bag, (provided that bag con- tained a good article of bone-dust or guano), the result to his patrons would have been the same, whether he had used it on one or all of the crops that be had special prescriptions for. There are few market gardeners in the vicinity of New York but who have at one time or another been obliged to take anything they could get for fertilizing purposes, and the difference has never been perceptible when ma- nure from horse stables or cow stables has been applied, rope GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. or when $100 per acre has been expended for bone-dust or Peruvian guano, and these all used on a dozen dif- ferent crops without any discrimination. Agricultural chemistry may be all very well in some respects, but if it gets down to such hair-splitting niceties as to analyze scores of special plants, and tell us that we must feed each with only just such food as the analysis show it to be composed of, then our common sense, born of practical experience, must scout and ridicule such nonsense. Plants, like animals, are not so much kept in good health by the special kind of food given as by the proper quantity and conditions surrounding the individual when the food is received, and what proper temperature and pulverization of soil may be to the plant, air and exercise and also proper temperature are the corresponding con- ditions necessary for healthy animal life. Who will say that the beef-fed English laborer is in any way the phys- ical superior of the Irishman or Scotchman whose daily food has been only potatoes and oat-meal? You get usually fine and nearly equal development in each case, but it is a condition due to a natural use of the muscles in the open air in a congenial climate rather than to anything special in the food. It would be quite as rea- sonable to tell us that a special food, chemically consid- ered, is necessary for each class of our domestic animals as for our domestic plants, and none but the veriest charlatan or ignoramus will do either. CHAPTER VII. = THE LAWN. ~ Since the introduction of the lawn-mowers, the keep- ing of the lawn has been so simplified that no suburban residence is complete. without one, and there is now no THE LAWN. 23 more excuse for tall grass ‘“‘ going to hay” in the door yard than there would be for cobwebs taking possession of the rooms inside the dwelling. We occasionally see some parsimonious individual, even now, who remembers that in his grandfather’s days, grass was allowed to grow for the food of the ‘‘critters,” and he leaves it for food for his ‘‘ critters” still. Though at the same time his furniture inside, that nobody but himself ever sees, or has an op- portunity to admire, for such men are not troubled with friends, may have cost him $5,000 or $10,000. We have two or three notable examples of this kind in my imme- diate neighborhood, but it is gratifying to know that such neighbors are not numerous, for the example of the majority will soon shame them into decency. To have a lawn in first rate condition, the ground must be put in order in the way described under the heads of “* Draining” and ‘‘ Preparation of the Soil,” for if these are necessary anywhere, they are still more necessary for the lawn; the soil of which should be as thoroughly pul- verized and enriched by manure, as any ground intended for the cultivation of either vegetables or fruits. Great care must be taken to have the surface of the ground for the lawn, (unless a very large one), made perfectly level, for if this is not done before the lawn is sown, it cannot be altered but at great expense and inconyenience. After the surface is made level roughly, it should be further smoothed with the rake, and all stones of any considerable size remvuved, so that the surface will be smooth for the action of the lawn- mower. Wherever the extent of the lawn does not ex- ceed 2,500 square feet, and where sods can be obtained trom a suitable pasture near at hand without much cost, the best way to make the lawn is to sod it, but before doing so, the ground should be rolled or beaten down, particularly if any portion of it has been filled in, so that there may be no “settling ” to form hollows or inequali- 24 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. ties. A convenient size of sod to lay down is 12 by 18 inches, and of a thickness of 2 inches, in laying see that the edges are neatly laid together; and the whole firmly beaten down with the back of a spade. If it is dry weather when the work is done, it may be necessary to thoroughly drench the newly-laid sod for a week or so after planting, every other evening. When the lawn is too extensive to be sodded, the following mixture of grass seed may be used, which we have found to make an ex- cellent lawn: 8 quarts Rhode Island Bent Grass. 3 quarts Creeping Bent Grass. 10 quarts Red Top Grass. 10 quarts Kentucky Blue Grass. 1 quart White Clover. This mixture is not indispensable to the formation of a good lawn, though we believe it to be the best. Some of the fine lawns seen at Newport, R. I., are. composed al- most entirely of Rhode Island Bent grass mixed with about one-sixth of white clover, but the humidity of the atmosphere there has no doubt more to do with the rich- ness of the lawn than the variety of grass it is composed of. I may here caution the use of spurious seed for this purpose. Itis no uncommon thing that either through ignorance or short-sighted economy, ‘‘ hay-seed ” is taken direct from the hay-loft and sown to form the lawn. If from good hay, the seed will be principally timothy and red clover, and vain would be all the attempts to get a smooth lawn from such a source. It would be about as reasonable to expect figs from thistles. If the soil isrich, and has been thoroughly prepared, three bushels per acre will be sufficient, but if thin and poor, from four to five bushels had better be sown. If sown in early spring, as soon as the soil is dry enough to work, a good lawn will be formed by midsummer the first year, if it has been DESIGN FOR GARDEN. 25 mown regularly at intervals of eight or ten days. The seed must be sown as evenly as possible, and for this rea- son a calm day must be chosen, as a very slight wind will throw the seed into heaps. After sowing, the ground may be lightly harrowed if the surface is large, but if not, give it an even raking, but in either case the ground should be smoothed down with a roller or patted with a “spade, so to form a smooth surface to be mowed. Al- though if a choice can be had, it is best to sow the lawn seed in early spring, yet it can be sown nearly as profita- bly in September, or in the more southerly states in Oc- tober, or for that matter, even as late as May and June in spring, only if so late, it is better to mix one quart of oats to every bushel of grass-seed, that the oats may shade and protect the young grass from the sun until it has root enough to support itself. But if sown in March or April, or in September or October, there is no need of using the oats, as no injury will be done by the sun at these seasons. T'o keep the lawn in proper condition, it should be mowed over once every week if the weather is moist, and not less than once in two weeks, even in dry weather, for if the lawn has been properly made in the first place, and ‘‘ top dressed” with a good coat of well- rotted manure in fall, and the rough raked off in spring, the weather must be dry and hot indeed to prevent its growth. CHAPTER IX. DESIGN FOR GARDEN. As this book is intended to comprehend all the wants of a cottage or suburban garden, including flowers, fruits, and vegetables, it would increase its size too much to . 2 2 26 300 F* GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 200 Feet Front. Fig. 6.—DESIGN FOR LAYING OUT GROUNDS. DESIGN FOR GARDEN. a give a great yariety of designs for the flower-garden. To those that require such, some intelligent landscape gar- dener should be consulted. Intelligent, I say, for nine out of ten that pretend to be landscape gardeners are not ; but consult a man able to draw a neat design, for if he cannot do that he is not a very safe person to be intrusted with the working out of the plan of another. You are careful to ascertain that the architect for your house is a man of education and intelligence before you entrust yourself in his hands, but when it comes to de- signing the lawn and flower-grounds, the veriest bog- trotter, who styles himself a ‘‘ landscaper,” is too often allowed to display his ‘‘ art,” and at the same time make you ridiculous. Rest assured that if such a pretender has not had ambition enough to become fairly well in- structed, he is not likely to show much taste in design- ing your grounds. The design, (fig. 6), shows an area of 200 feet by 350, or a plot of nearly two acres, about one-third of the whole facing the street, is used for flower-garden and for dwelling, the two-thirds in the rear for fruit and vegeta- ble grounds. ‘There is a point in this sketch, to which I wish to call attention, as it is one too often lost sight of ; the flower-garden and lawn face the street, while the fruit and vegetable grounds are at the rear ; the view of these from the street is shut out upon one side by a screen or tall hedge of evergreens, H, and upon the other by a curvilinear glass structure, @, which may be used either as a grapery or a greenhouse. The walk, Ww, passes on 3 each side of the house to connect with other walks at the _ Year; the beds, F, may be planted in ribbon lines either with flowering plants or those with brilliant and strongly contrasting foliage. The flower-beds, F, each side of the _ entrance near the front, may be made of any form that _ may be preferred ; a simple circle planted as suggested _ in the next chapter, will produce a good effect, and be 28 He Fp /) VEZ EG MD, Sg Ny Ex YALL: Fe, Seyiry IN 1? LY oe Oe aay —— ores TET Aes if Kf Lye He Pines a) +74 “ PEC ERT See €: ede fy V, jah af om 350 eel. GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. 200 Feet Front. Fig. 7.—DESIGN FOR GROUNDS WITH CARRIAGE-DRIVE. DESIGN FOR GARDEN. 29 more easily cared for than beds of the style here given ; most persons, where the floral ornamentation is, as in this case, confined to a few effective masses, prefer to change not only the manner of planting such beds each year, but to alter their form occasionally. The unbroken area of lawn at c is intended for a croquet ground. At the rear of the house the central walk is spanned by a grape ar- bor, G A, if one wishes the vines to afford shade, or a simple trellis may run each side; the borders next the fence on each side and at the rear, (not shown in the plan), may also be used for grapes, or will be convenient for raspberries, currants, and other small fruits. The large plots, v F, are for the main crops of vegetables and fruits ; asparagus, rhubarb, strawberries, and such other crops as remain year after year without being disturbed, | should be so placed at the outset as to be interfered with as little as possible in the frequent working of the soil necessary for other crops. A lot of this size will require the labor of one man, whose time must be exclusively devoted to the garden, and to nothing else, to keep it in proper order. Such is the extent, and something near the design of the grounds I use for such purposes. I generally have selected one of my most active men to take charge of it, and find he has plenty to do to do it well. A second design (fig. 7) shows a lot of the same dimensions, with a different arrangement, there being a _ stable, s, and no rear entrance, it is necessary to provide one from the front, and in order to secure a greater breadth of lawn, the house is placed at one side of the center of the grounds. The drive, D, in the design 1s made to turn around a group of flower-beds of fanciful pattern, _ but this may be replaced by a single circle, planted as 4 4 suggested in the next chapter, or by a group of ornamen- _ tal evergreen or other shrubs. In this design the cro- quet-ground is at c, and the grape arbor, G A, is used to shut out the view of the vegetable grounds from the street. 30 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. A row of closely planted evergreens at H serves to break the force of the winds ; the suggestions as to the other details in the preceding plan, (fig. 6), apply to this also. CHAPTER. 2. PLANTING OF LAWNS AND FLOWER-BEDS. The subject of lawn planting, including the proper setting and grouping of trees and shrubs, and their most effective disposal, is too extended for the scope of this book. These matters belong to works upon landscape gardening, and are ably treated in those by Downing, Kemp, Weidenmann, Scott, and others. But the plant- ing of flower-beds comes properly within our limits. ‘The old-fashioned mixed borders of four or six feet wide along the walks of the fruit or vegetable garden, were usually planted with hardy herbaceous plants, the tall growing at the back, with the lower growing sorts in front. ‘These, when there was a good collection, gave a bloom of varied color throughout the entire growing season. But-the more modern style of flower borders has quite displaced such collections, and they are now but little seen, unless in very old gardens, or in botanical collections. Then again, we have the mixed borders of bedding plants, a heterogeneous grouping of ali kinds of tropical plants, still holding to the plan of either placing the highest at the back of the border if it has only one walk, or if a bed has a walk on each side, the highest in’ the middle, and the plants sloping down to the walk on each side. The mixed system still has its advocates, who deprecate the modern plan of massing in color as being too formal, and too unnatural a way to dispose of flowers. But be that PLANTING OF LAWNS AND FLOWER-BEDS. al as it may, we will not stop to argue the matter further than to state, that in a visit to England in 1872, it was most evident that the ‘‘ Carpet Styles” of massing plants as done at Battersea Park, London, were interesting to the people in a way that no mixed border could ever be. Any one who has not yet seer the wonderful effects pro- duced by the massing of plants in this way, has a treat before him. Nearly all the public parks in and about London are so planted, and thousands of cottage gardens eight or ten different vie with each other in imitation of the parks. But to plant in patterns or in ribbon lines requires for immediate effect a large number of plants, for the reason that they must be so set out that they will meet to form continu- ous masses shortly after planting. An illustration in circles (for convenience), is given in fig. 8, to show what plants can be massed together to give a pleasing effect. Of course it will be understood that a bed of-any shape can be planted in this manner as / well as circular beds, only , keeping in view the width — of the bed. For example, | a bed having a diameter | of ten feet may require kinds of plants to form the - necessary contrast, while Seeeweteet will notre. ©12: 5—?'46RAM OF FLOWER BED. quire more than half that number. The following named plants are well suited for planting in masses or ribbon lines ; they are named as nearly as possible in the order _ of their hight, number one in each case being the tallest. Many of them will require to be ‘‘ pinched back” to | keep at the proper hight, so that the outline will form a _ tegular slope from the center or highest point, down to 32 GARDENING FOR FLEASURE. the front or lowest point—thus in list No.1, Canna Indica zebrina will grow six feet high, while Lobelia Paxtoni, ft =) \\y EN dee OF FLOWER-BED. the lowest, is less than six inches. The section given in figure 9 will give an idea of the arrangement of a bed of. this kind. List Noses ee 1. Canna Indica zebrina, leaves green and brown striped pots cine 6 2. Salvia splendens, flowers scarlet... ..7225- ee eceemeeee eee ee 9) 3. Golden Coleus, leaves orange and browi:>: 2.2.3 eee ose = 4, Achyranthes Lindeni, leaves rich: crimson.................... 3 o. Phalaris arundinacea var., leaves white and green............. 21/5 6, Achyranthes Gilsoni, leaves carmine=-2 22.) eee 2 7. Bronze Geranium, leaves golden bronze......... Pee beh ae 11/, 8. Centaurea candida, leaves white... . .. 5-225 4-.-8e eee eee 1: 9. Alternanthera latifolia, leaves crimson and yellow........ eee ae oh 10. Lobelia Paxtoni, flowers bluc...........e.ceuees nee i/g List No. 2. ee eae 1. Caladium esculentum, leaves large green..........seeceseeeee 5 2. Japanese Maize, leaves striped white and yellow.............. 5 3. Coleus Verschaffeltii, leaves chocolate crimson........... fe tac. Te 4. Delphinium bicolor, flowers blue and white....,............. 3 _ 5. Cyperus alternifolius var., leaves white and greén............. 21/4 6. Achyranthes Verschaffeltii, leaves crimson.................--. 2 7. Mountain of Snow Geranium, leaves white and green.......... 11/, 8. Tropzolum, Ball of Fire, flowers flame color.................. 1 9. Echeveria metallica, leaves gray, metallic lustre.............. 3/4 10. Alternanthera ameena, yellow and carmine.................--- We — 7 a es ay PLANTING OF LAWNS AND FLOWER-BEDS. ao It will be understood that these lists of plants can be transposed in any way necessary to suit beds of all widths, keeping in view that where small beds are placed near walks the lower growing kinds are most suitable, while for beds at greater distances from walks, or other points of view, the taller growing kinds must be used. Very fine effects are produced by plant- ing on a lawn a single specimen of stately habit, such as some varieties of the Ricinus, or Castor-oil Bean, which grow ten and twelve feet in hight in one season, and are particularly striking plants. Or instead of this, a mass of six, eight, or twelve plants of scarlet sage will form a group six feet high by as many in diameter, and its dazzling scarlet color, contrasting against the green of the lawn, is superb. Many of the Amaranths are also well suited for planting in single groups. Amarantus tricolor gigantea, (Joseph’s coat), grows to the hight of six feet, and its leaves in the late summer and fall months. exceed in brilliancy of color anything we know of in foliage ; scarlet, crimson, and golden yellow pre- dominating. Another, the Amarantus bicolor ruber, grows to the hight of five feet, and is plumed with scar- let crimson. In contrast to these, plants of a more somber tint may be used, in individual specimens or in ~ a group of such as Pampas Grass, (Gynerium argenteum), or the Ravenna Grass, (Zrianthus Ravenne), each of these attain a hight from six to ten feet, and have a graceful ap- pearance. The Tanyah, Caladium esculentum, a tropical looking plant growing three or four feet in hight, and producing leaves sometimes eighteen inches across. THE CARPET STYLE OF FLOWER-BEDS. Planting, as practised at Battersea and other parks in London, is as yet but little seen with us; our public parks here have shown a lamentable want of taste in this 34 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. matter, especially those of New York and Brooklyn ; Philadelphia and Boston have done better, but all of these are weak attempts when compared with the grounds of some of our private gentlemen, notable among whom are H. W. Sargent, of Peekskill, N. Y., and H. H. Hunnewell, of Boston. The grounds of Mr. H. are thrown open to the public, who have the opportunity of seeing effects in this style of planting, nearly equal to anything in Europe, entirely at the expense of the munificent owner. ‘The carpet style, so called, con- sists in using plants that can be kept down to a few > M) MIEN) we a) AW \y a “ Wen wi os VOX sy lp, ©, ; ts WW ae 22 Bmw at te ay ite ye . 3 " \ es W\ \\\ ) MY Ze as itn “GprOwy Gina aGere: = ea eoreG GO A~QGEAGCBeaAACGer= © 2 BOSC KEG Fig. 10.—DESIGN FOR SCROLL-PATTERN. inches above the level of the lawn. A great variety of succulent plants are used, such as Echeverias, Sedums, Mesembryanthemums, etc., together with numerous low- growing Alpine plants, such as Ajugas, Cerastiums, Lys- imachias, Lobelias, Ivies, Alternantheras, etc., ete. This style of bedding requires an immense number of plants. One bed in the carpet style at Battersea Park, containing less than 1,000 square feet, required 4,000 plants to produce the desired effect in the design, and not a leaf of these was more than six inches above the lawn. Planting in this style admits of unlimited va- THE CARPET STYLE OF FLOWER-BEDS. 35 riety in the form of the beds, and contrasts of colors 3; SO great is the care exercised abroad in arranging the de- signs that colored papers, giving the exact tints of the leading flowers and colored foliage, are supplied by the dealers, in order that colored designs may be made and Fig. 11.—ORNAMENTAL DESIGN, AFTER THOMPSON. studied before putting them into execution; a single misplaced color. may spoil the effect of the whole. In works of this kind the parts of the design should be sep- arated by well defined portions of turf, as the color of each member of it is brought out more clearly and dis-— tinctly, and the whole has a much better effect if a lib- eral amount of green is introduced. The two plans, figs. 10 and 11, are introduced to give an idea of some of the ee a ee 36 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. simpler designs; the scroll-work, fig. 10, in various forms ~ is much used, either near a drive, or as a margin or frame to more elaborate work. CHAPTER ‘XI. FALL, OR HOLLAND BULBS. These bulbs are mainly such as are imported from Hol- land in the fall, and consist of Hyacinths, Tulips, Cro- cuses, Jonquils, Narcissuses, Snow-drops, and various other less known kinds. With few exceptions, all these bulbs are hardy in our most northern states, though all are benefitted by a covering of two or three inches of rough litter or leaves spread over the beds before freezing weather. The soil best suited for all. bulbs is a rich, but rather sandy loam. All these bulbs may be planted any time from the middle of September, until the ground is closed’ by frost in December. Hyacinths should be planted at distances of eight or ten inches apart each way, and from three to four inches deep. ‘Tulips, the same distance apart, but a little less deep. Crocuses four inches apart and two inches deep. Jonquils and Narcis- — suses may be planted six inches apart and four inches deep. Snow-drops the same as Crocuses. : Very fine effects are produced by planting Hyacinths in lines each of one color, or when mixed colors are placed in the lines, care must be taken to have them arranged so that the bed will give harmonious blending of color. Crosuses have nearly the same range of color as the Hyacinth, and may be planted either way. All these bulbs are easily grown in pots. The Hya- cinth requires a pot six inches in depth and diameter ; in prere we FALL, OR HOLLAND BULBS. Oo” potting it is only necessary to fill the pot rather loosely to the brim, and press the bulb down, so that only about one-fourth of it appears above the soil. The pot should then be struck smartly on the bench to give the soil the proper degree of firmness, leaving it, when fin- ished, about an inch or so below the rim of the pot. Then water freely to still further settle the soil. ‘The pots should then be placed where it is cool and dark, which will encourage a strong development of roots, before the bud starts to grow at the top. Such a situa- tion can be made by covering up the pots with four or five inches of sand in a cool cellar, under the stage of a cool greenhouse, or in a sunken pit, in each case covering with sand or leaves, so as to exclude heat and frost, for it must not be forgotten that a strong development of root can only be had at a low temperature, say from forty to fifty degrees, and any attempt to force them to make roots quicker by placing them in a high temperature, will mest certainly enfeeble the flower. If we will only observe how nature points out to us this necessity, we will see how safe it will be to follow her. In all hardy plants, the roots in spring, (when the temperature is low), form the rootlets before a leaf or flower is devel- oped. ‘To show the bad effects when this is not the case, take a root of any of our hardy lilies and plant it in March, and take a similar bulb and plant it in May; it will be found that the early planted bulb that had an opportunity to slowly develop its roots before there was heat enough to start the top, will give a finer growth and finer flower than the bulb that was planted in May, and run up into growth before it had an opportunity to sufficiently push its roots into the soil. The culture of all the bulbs before named, in pots, is the same as that of the Hyacinth, only the Narcissuses and Tulips should be planted three or four in a six or seyen-inch pot, and Cro- cuses ten or twelve ina pot. All these bulbs may like- 38 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. wise be grown in moss, or even pure sand, provided that it is kept damp ; the necessity being a medium wherein the roots can revel in moisture. But whether potted in soul, sand, or moss, there will be no need to water, but at the time of potting, provided the pots have been coy- ered up as directed, and kept cool and dark. If potted say the first week in October, they may be removed from ~ their dark quarters in seven or eight weeks, only before doing so, turn a few of them out of the pots to see whether they “have rooted around the ball of earth. They may then be placed in full light and watered freely. HYACINTHS IN GLASSES. Although the Jonquils and Narcissuses can be grown in water in glasses as well as the Hyacinth, they are not often so treated, hyacinths being the only bulbs largely flowered in that way, some of which are shown in fig. 12. fl, \N Bohemian. Belgian. Fig. 12.—HYACINTH GLASSES. The glasses are made of various styles, from the plain old-fashioned Belgian to the ornamental Bohemian glasses, and of clear glass or colored, green, amber, claret, and other shades. The glasses, which are best of a . dark color, are filled with water just high enough for the base of the bulb to touch it. ‘The glasses must be placed in a cool and dark place, just such a situation PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY SEEDS. 39 as recommended for those grown in pots. Care must be taken that they do not freeze, else the glasses will be broken, and the Hyacinths more or less injured. Single Hyacinths are better than double ones for glasses. The water should be changed every six or eight days. CHAPTER XII. PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY SEEDS. Nature provides abundantly for the reproduction of plants, and the difficulty of multiplying by one method is compensated by the ease with which it may be done in another. Whenever we find a plant takes root with difficulty from “slips” or cuttings, in nine cases out of ten we find that it seeds freely, and gives us a ready means of increase. Thus we find the much admired Centaureas, one kind of the ‘‘ Dusty Millers,” the white leaved plants now so much used in massing and for baskets, are exceedingly difficult and slow to root from cuttings, but are readily raised from seeds. Our fine strains of blotched Petunias are also troublesome as cut- tings, but make plants quickly from seeds. The Cycla- men with its turnip-like stem or bulb, could only be propagated by cutting in pieces, disfiguring its shape, and requiring years to form acircular bulb again, but here we have seed coming to our help which germinates freely, and makes a flowering plant mm one year. The Apple Geranium never affords proper cuttings from which to make a plant, but it seeds freely, from which splendid plants can be produced in a few months. So the Pri- mulas and Cinerarias, both slow and uncertain from cut- tings, seed freely. Echeveria metallica, one of the beau- 40 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. tiful plants of the House-Leek family, produces no bud from the base of the leaf, as nearly all the other species do, but to make up, it seeds abundantly, and so with hundreds of other plants to which our space will not per- mit us to refer. ‘'here is no rule by which we can des- ignate what plants are best propagated by seeds, and what by cuttings, experience being the only teacher, and even the experience of a lifetime is too short for those of us that have had the largest practice. Seedling plants can be nearly as well raised in the win- dow of a sitting-room or parlor, provided the tempera- ture is right, as in a greenhouse, for seeds do not need a strong direct, ight while germinating, in fact that is often a difficulty in a greenhouse, as the surface of the seed-bed dries up too quickly in the direct sunshine, ne- cessitating watering, which bakes the surface. ‘The best thing wherein to sow seeds is shallow boxes; these need not be more than two or three inches deep, with open seams at the bottom through which water will drain quickly. Fill the boxes within half an inch of the top with light rich earth ; if it can be procured, nothing is better than black leaf-mold from the woods, or light sandy soil mixed with an equal bulk of stable manure, so rotted as to resemble leaf-mold, it will not answer un- less rotted as fine as dust. In the absence of either of these, sweepings from a paved street are excellent, mixed with light sandy soil, the object in all cases being laght- ness of the soil or mold in which the seed is to be sown ; for if tiny seeds, as many of our flower-seeds are, are embedded in a stiff soil, the germ in many of them is too weak to push its way to the light. When the proper soil has been secured, pat it down with a smooth board until it is as smooth and level ag it well can be, then sow the seed carefully over the surface, distributing it evenly, then take a common kitchen sieve and sift just so much earth evenly over the seed as will cover it and no more}; PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY SEEDS. 41 then take a watering-pot with the finest kind of a rose, and shower the earth with the spray. Keep the box at a temperature as near sixty degrees as possible, taking care to give it a shower of spray only when the surface appears to be dry ; but few seeds will fail to germinate under such conditions. - But after the seeds have ‘‘brairded,” as the Scotch gardeners say, comes another difficulty; in quite a number of plants, particularly if sown in the house, just as soon as the seed leaf has de- veloped, and before the first rough or true leaves have formed, the seedling is attacked by a minute fungus, that will often sweep off the whole crop in 48 hours, if not attended to. The required attention is, that as soon as there are indications of the ‘‘ damping off” of these tiny seedlings, they must be carefully taken up and planted out in similar boxes, prepared exactly as the seed-boxes have been ; they may be planted quite closely, not more than half an inch apart, and let their further treatment be exactly the same as in germinating the seeds. In the course of a few weeks they will have grown freely, and they may then be lifted and placed in similar boxes, but wider apart, say three or four inches, or potted singly in two and a half or three-inch pots as most convenient, - until such a time as they are to be planted out in the open ground, or to be used otherwise. In this way as great a number of plants may be raised from a 25c. or 90¢. packet of seed as would cost $25 or $50 to purchase, be- sides the far greater satisfaction of their being the pro- ducts of your own hands. 42 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. CHAPTER XIII. PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY CUTTINGS. There is no more interesting operation to the amateur gardener than that of increasing his stock of plants by cuttings or slips. Heretofore, it was accounted a great mystery, and unless with some of the commonest kinds of Geraniums, few amateurs ever presumed to invade the territory of the professional gardeners. Nearly all writers on the subject had so befogged this simple matter with technical nonsense, that few, not regularly brought up to the business, presumed to attempt it. We now consider it one of our simplest operations, far simpler than raising many kinds of plants from seed, and though we raise now oyer two millions of plants annually, and keep a man with three assistants doimg nothing else the entire year but propagating plants from slips, yet we could take any careful, intelligent man from among our garden laborers, and install him as a competent propagator in a month. Where plants are propagated from cuttings in large numbers, we elevate a bench, usually four feet wide, above the flue or hot-water pipes, to within a foot or so of the glass at the front, and on this table or bench we place three or four inches of sand, of any color or tex- ture, provided it is not from the sea-shore, and contains salt. This benchis boarded downin front, so as to confine the heat from the flue or pipes under it, and give what is called ‘‘ bottom heat” ; the sand on a bench so formed will indicate a temperature of perhaps seventy degrees, while the atmosphere of the greenhouse, particularly dur- ing the night, will be ten degrees less. Now, if the cut- tings are in the right condition, and are inserted an inch or so in this sand, freely watered, and shaded from the sun from 9 or 10 A.M. to3 or 4 P.M., cuttings of nearly aa r 4 1 - ~ gre SP asi PROPAGATION OF PLANTS BY CUTTINGS. 43 all kinds of plants are certain to take root in from ten to twenty days. But the cuttings must be in the right condition, and this is best shown by the engraving, (fig. 13). It will be observed that the upper portion of the shoot is snapped or broken, while the other is only kneed or bent; this snapping point, as we now term it, is a true indication of proper condition of the cutting ; where it bends and does not break, it is too hard, and though a ME fi) ———————————— 3 Fig. 15.—PROPER AND IMPROPER STATE OF CUTTING. cutting will root, when in that condition, it will be slower in doing so, and the roots thrown out from it will be weaker and more wiry than when emitted from a cutting taken in the condition in which it breaks. Be- sides the plant grown from the older cutting will not 44 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. likely be so healthy or vigorous as one made when the shoot is in the proper state. In propagating woody plants, such as Roses, Azaleas, or Camellias, this test of breaking or snapping of the cutting does not in these indicate the proper condition, although they also will root if taken in the soft state, yet we find it is not quite so well to do so as to wait until the cuttings of these woody plants gets harder ; what this proper hardness is, it is not very easy always to de- termine. In roses the best condition for taking the cutting is reached when the young shoot, (of which the cutting is made), develops the flower bud to about the size of a large pea. Although the shoot on which the flower bud shows, will make a proper enough cutting, yet if it is not desired to waste the flower, cuttings had better be made of the ‘‘blind” shoots, 2. e., such young shoots as do not flower. In making the cuttings of roses, or in fact of almost all plants, (with a few excep- tions hardly worth noting), there is no need to cut ata joint, although nine gardeners out of ten still do so, par- ticularly those who have learned the business in Europe, where, in this as in many other things in horticulture, they still follow the dictum of some savant of a century ago, never questioning why. But our business necessities here, have caused us to ride rough-shod over many of their set rules, and in none more ruthlessly than in this matter of propagating. But as this book is written mainly for amateurs in gardening, I will proceed to give a simple method by which any one can propagate plants from cuttings or slips, even when no greenhouse or hot- bed is at hand. It is called “~ THE “MUD” OR “SAUCER SYSTEM” OF PROPAGATING. Take any common saucer or plate, into which put sand to the depth of an inch or so, then prepare the cut- tings in the usual manner, and insert them in the sand * . ‘¢wupD” OR ** SAUCER SYSTEM.” Ad close enough to touch each otheras infig. 14. The sand is then to be watered to bring it to the condition of mud. The saucer with the cuttings is then placed on the shelf of the greenhouse, in the hot-bed, or in a sunny window of any room in the dwelling house ; in each case fully exposed to the sun and never shaded. But one condi- tion is essential to success—until the cuttings become rooted, the sand must be kept continually saturated with water and always in the condition of mud. 'To do this the saucers must be watered at least once a day with a very fine rose watering pot, and the watering must be done very gently, else the cuttings may be washed out. There is every probability that ninety per cent of all cuttings put in will take root, pro- vided they were in the proper condition, and the temperature has not been lower than 65 degrees nor above 100 degrees. By the saucer system a higher temperature may be main- tained without injury, as the cuttings are in reality placed in water, and will not wilt provided the water is not allowed to dry up. Still the detached slip, until rooted, will not endure a long continuation of 100 degrees, and we advise that propagation be done at such seasons that the cuttings, wherever they may be, will have as near as possible an average temperature of 75° or 80° in the sunlight. ‘The cuttings will root (according to kinds and the tempera- ture), in from six totwenty days. Verbenas, Heliotropes, Fuchsias, etc., root in a week, while Roses, Carnations, or Azaleas, take two, three, or four weeks. When rooted they should be potted in light soil, (such as recommended in the article ‘‘ Propagating of Plants by Seeds,’’) in pots _ from two to three inches in diameter, and treated care- __ fully by shading and watering for two or three days. To Fig. 14.—SAUCER PROPAGATION. 46 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. such as desire more extended information on the subject of propagating plants by cuttings, I would refer to my work, ‘‘ Practical Floriculture.” CHAPTER AIV. PROPAGATING BY LAYERING. Although florists now rarely resort to propagation by layering, yet now and then it may be desirable for ama- teurs to Increase the number of some favorite plant dur- ing the summer season, where no other method of propa- gation can be practised. The only difference between a — layer and a cutting is, that the cutting is entirely de- tached from the parent plant, while the layer remains partially connected with it. Although layering may be done with the ripened wood of vines or shrubs of the growth of the previous season, yet it is prefer- : able to use the shoot of ye the present year in its ) half green state ; for ex- ample, a rose or flower- ing shrub is pruned in _ the usual way in spring; by midsummer it will have made strong shoots one, two, or three feet in length £rom or near the base of the plant. Take the shoot then in the left hand, (after having stripped it of its leaves for a few inches on each side of-where it is to be cut), keep the fingers under the shoot, and make a cut on the upper part, Py | Ww \ : Se \\ \ NAN x ~S \ ABOUT GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 4” an inch or so in length, and to about half the thickness of the shoot, then slightly twist the ‘‘ tongue” or cut part to one side, as shown in the engraving, fig. 15; hav- ing opened a shallow trench, fasten the branch down with a hooked peg, and cover with earth ; it is a good plan to place a flat stone over the layer to prevent the soil from drying out. ‘This plan of cutting the shoot in layering is rarely shown in illustrations on the subject, the cuts usually being represented at the under side of the shoot. When cut at the lower side, the shoot can not be laid down without danger of breaking it. CHAPTER XV. ABOUT GRAFTING AND BUDDING. It is often desirable to be able to bud or graft one variety of plant on another entirely different variety ; and it is an interesting fact to know that the bud taken from one plant and inserted so that it grows in another, and is entirely sustained by the plant into which it has been budded, in no way changes’ its character. This fact is so well known to gardeners that they rarely think it necessary to mention it in writing on the. subject, and many amateurs interested in horticultural matters have very confused notions on budding. ‘To illustrate: if a leaf bud is taken from a white Rose, and inserted in the stem of a red Rose, all the branches that proceed from this bud, leaves or flowers, will be identical with the white Rose from which it was taken. Or if a leaf bud of the red Rose be inserted in the white, the same result _ would follow; it will be identical in all respects with the _ red variety. Or you may take a bud or graft from the 48 - GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. sourest crab apple, and insert it into a branch of the sweetest apple tree you can find, and the shoot which grows from the crab apple bud will ever remain a crab, and will in no way be affected by the sweet apple stock on which it is growing. Or if the operation is reversed, and the sweet apple is budded or grafted on the sour, the result will be the same ; its individuality will be in no way changed, it will be identical with the variety from which it was taken. © , Still further to illustrate this matter of budding or grafting, you may take a rose-bush having any number of shoots, it makes no difference whether one or a hun- dred ; on each shoot you may bud a distinct variety of Rose, of all the colors, forms or odors embraced in the Roses, and each one will hold its distinct characteristic of color, form, or fragrance, be it crimson, white, pink, or yellow in color, double or single in form, or of tea or . other odor. Or you may take a young seedling apple tree, insert a bud of another into it, then after that bud has made a growth, bud still another variety into that, and so on as many as is desired, rub of all shoots in the stem that start below, and the variety last budded will hold its individuality unchanged, no matter though the life-sustaining sap flows through the cells of several dif- ferent kinds. You may mark the space occupied by each of the varieties, and cut back to any particular variety, and the fruit that will be produced by that part, which will then be the top, will hold its character without change. What is true of roses and apples, is of course equally true of whatever plant that can be grafted or budded. _ The stock does not in any manner affect the individu- ality of the graft, and I supposed that this was one of the generally accepted axioms of horticulture, but in a conversation not long ago with a gentleman whose opin- ion is entitled to consideration, I found him inclined te believe that there were some few exceptions to what was ABOUT GRAFTING AND BUDDING. 49 admitted to be a general law, and in support of his argu- ment, he referred me for exceptions to Darwin’s ‘‘ Piants and Animals under Domestication.” I have examined this work, and find only two cases wherein it is claimed that the graft is influenced by the stock, or the stock by the graft. ‘The first isat page 457, Vol. 1, where ‘‘ Prof. Caspary describes the case of a six-year-old white Moss Rose, which sent up several suckers, one of which was thorny and destitute of moss, exactly like those of the Provence Rose, (f. centifolia), another shoot bore both kinds of flowers, and in addition longitudinally striped flowers. As this white moss had been grafted on the Provence Rose, Prof. Caspary attributes the above changes to the influence of the stock, but from the facts already given, and from others to be given, bud variation with reversion is probably sufficient explanation”; and Dar- win proceeds to give nearly a dozen cases of like variation where there was no grafting at all. A very marked case of this ‘‘ bud variation” is at the present time existing in my own greenhouses. In a bed of about one hun- dred plants of the new tea-rose, ‘‘ La Nankin,” all made from the cuttings from one parent plant, we have had four distinct varieties. The original flower or bud has its base or lower half of a nankeen yellow color, while its upper half is pure white, the separate colors being clearly defined, yet among our plants from cuttings we have some flowers that are entirely of the nankeen color, with- out white ; then again pure white with no nankeen, and on one shoot the flowers came of a light pink or blush shade. Now had Prof. Caspary a grafted plant of ‘* La Nankin” playing these freaks, he no doubt would have concluded that it was the influence of the graft on the stock. ‘There are other instances in grafting where an amalgamation of individualities apparently occurs ; these cases are familiar to all horticulturists of much experi- ence, and are also alluded to by Darwin in the work above 3 50 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. referred to. He gives a number of instances where the vari- egated Oleander grafted on the plain leaved variety as a stock, imparts the variegation to the stock, or where a yel- low-leaved ash tree, grafted on the common green-leayed variety, produced a blotched or variegated variety. That most of the variegation in the foliage of plants, is due to disease, or at least some disturbance of the regular func- tions of the leaf, there is but little doubt, and it is there- fore but an accidental condition of the individual. Where a variegated plant is budded or grafted upon a healthy subject, the disease is transmitted from the unhealthy bud or graft to the healthy stock in a mauner somewhat analogous to innoculation of smallpox virus in man. The character or constitution of the individual is in no way affected in the one case more than in the other. Marked instances in which plain-leaved plants become variegated by being grafted with variegated cions, are afforded by the variegated Abutilons ; but in all such cases it is sim- ply the ‘‘blotching” or ‘‘ disease” of the: foliage that occurs, there is no change whatever in the coloring of the flowers or shape of the leaves, the individuality of these remains unchanged. ‘That leaf variegation is indicative of disease, is manifest from another fact. It is quite a common thing to find a shoot sent out by the silver- leaved or variegated Geraniums that is pure white in stem and leaves, not a particle of green, or such golden varie- gated kinds cf Geraniums as ‘‘ Mrs. Pollock” will send out a pure yellow shoot ; but all efforts to make plants of such shoots will fail; they may feebly root as cuttings, or they may be grafted on a green-leaved, healthy stock long enough to drag out a few weeks of existence, but the disease is here thoroughly established, and all attempts to propagate these entirely abnormal growths completely fail. It has been claimed that the Duchesse d’Angouleme and other pears are much better flavored when grafted on the quince than on the pear stock, and these are quoted HOW GRAFTING AND BUDDING ARE DONE. 51 as examples of the influence of the stock on the graft, but to me this seems capable of another explanation : We know that the pear stock is a vigorous and rampant grower as compared with the quince, and may it not be that this vigor of growth in the tree impairs the flavor of the fruit in some varieties, just as we find the flavor of fruits impaired when grown in too rich soil ? The effect of soil upon quality is particularly marked in melons. Jremember that I once grew a field of ‘three acres of nutmeg melons, one-half of the patch-was rich bottom land, and the other portion was a rather poor hillside. ‘The fruit produced on the bottom was much larger, but so different from and inferior in flavor to those on the hillside that no one would have recognized the two as being of the same variety. ‘The same, though in a less marked degree, probably occurs in other fruits under similar conditions. From these reasons I believe it safe to assert that no evidence has yet been shown wherein the stock in any manner affects the graft other than that it may cause it to grow stronger or weaker, just as the stock is strong or weak, and the amount of such influence will be only such as a rich or poor soil would produce. In other words, the ‘‘ stock” 1s only a medium or soil wherein the grafted individual grows, and affects it no more than if it drew its sustenance direct from the earth—strong, if on a strong stock, as on a fer- tile soil, and weak, if on a weak stock, as on a sterile soil. CHAPTER. XVI. HOW GRAFTING AND BUDDING ARE DONE. After this discussion of general principles, let us come to the practice of grafting and budding. In what has been said, they haye been used as synonyms, and their 52 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. object 1s precisely the same—to propagate a particular plant upon a rooted plant of another kind. Among fruits we do this because we cannot multiply choice vari- eties by seed or by cuttings ; stocks are raised from seed, which if allowed to grow and bear, might produce a poor and worthless fruit, or it may be a good kind. To make matters sure, we graft a twig of.a kind that we know upon a seedling about which we know nothing. With Camellias, the choice kinds cannot well be propagated from cuttings, but some of the commoner kinds will grow in this way, and the choice Camellias are grafted upon stocks obtained by rooting cuttings of the others ; so in various cases among fruits and flowers, budding or grafting af- fords the readiest, if not the only method, by which we can multiply certain varieties. A graft isa twig contain- ing one or more buds, and so inserted or planted in the stock that the new bark and new wood of the two shall be in close contact; in budding, a single bud with no wood, or as little wood as possible, is inserted or planted below the bark of the stock and in direct contact with its new or sap-wood. While we give the two operations dif- ferent names, the French call budding simply a variety of grafting—shield-grafting. In a general way it may bestated that in grafting we use buds of a previous year, and in- sert them upon the stock where they are to grow the spring after they are formed, and as soon as vegetation starts, these buds commence to grow. In budding we use buds of the current season’s growth; the recently formed buds, near the end of the growing season, are planted in the stock where they unite, and remain dor- mant until spring, when the inserted bud pushes into growth at the time that the natural buds of the stock start. These statements apply only to out-door grafting and budding ; when these operations are performed under glass, the propagator has control of atmospheric condi- tions, and yaries them to suit the subjects in hand. In GRAFTING. 53 out-door grafting, such as that upon fruit-trees, the cions are best if cut in the fall and preserved in sand or saw- dust in the cellar during the winter; though with very hardy sorts this is not essential, they should be cut before any swelling of the buds takes place. ‘The operation suc- ceeds best when the buds on the cion are perfectly dor- mant, and those on the stock have swollen and about to open. GRAFTING. The various methods of grafting are too many to describe here ; the simplest is the cleft graft ; the stock is sawed off and the end cleft or split for a few mches down through the center, (fig. 16); the cion, (or two if the stock is over an inch in diameter), with two or three buds, has its lower end smoothly cut to form a wedge a trifle thicker on one side than the other, (fig. 17); the cleft in the stock is pried open by means of an iron wedge ora wedge- shaped stick, and the cion or cions set with the thicker edge of the wedge outward, observing to bring the in- ner bark and new wood of stock and cion in as close contact as possible; the opening wedge being withdrawn, the spring of the stock will hold the cions in place, (fig. 18); the junction is to be covered with grafting wax, or waxed cloth, taking care to completely cover every wounded portion of both stock and cion. It is by this method that most of the grafting is done all over the country ; it is rude but very successful ; the ob- a | Fig. 16. Fig. 17. Fig. 18, CLEFT GRAFTING. 54 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. jection to it is that it leaves too great a wound to be closed over. For small stocks the whip-graft is generally used ; it is much easier to do it than to describe it ; stock and cion should be as near of a size as possible ; both are cut with a similar slope, and in each slope is cut a tongue as in fig. 19; when the two slopes are put together, the Fig. 19.—WHIP GRAFT. Fig, 20.—SIDE GRAFT. two tongues are interlocked as in the engraving, taking care that the inner bark of stock and cion come in con- tact as completely as possible. In this illustration the parts are represented as tied with twine, to show the joint below, but in practice the whole is completely cov- ered with a band of waxed cloth. This, where practica- ble, is an excellent graft, there being no large wounds to heal over, and the points of union are numerous. ‘This graft is much used by nurserymen in root-grafting small apple and pear stocks. A very simple form called the side- graft is often employed by florists and nurserymen ; the © hae ira 4 - a “4 er: GRAFTING. . 5d cion is cut to along wedge, and the stock has a down- ward cut made in its stem into which the cion is inserted as in fig. 20. In grafting the Camellia and other hard- wooded plants, a combination of the whip and side graft is made use of as shown in fig. 21. Grafting wax used to cover the wounds made in graft- ing may be purchased at the seed and implement stores, or the amateur can make it himself. It should be soft ) = > & Fig. 21.—GRAFTING THE CAMELLIA. enough to be molded by the heat of the hand on a cool day, but not so soft as to run when exposed to the heat of the sun. It is essentially rosin and beeswax, with tal- low or linseed oil enough to make it sufficiently soft. What are known as hot-house, or tropical plants, re- quire a higher temperature than the preceeding, and cannot be well grown unless with a night temperature of from 60° to 70°, and a day temperature of from 10° to 20° higher. The following, of most of which there are several varieties, can be found described in the cata- logues of dealers : Allamandas, Ferns, tropical, Allocasias, Heliotropes, Begonias, Hibiscus, Bouyardias, | Marantas, Caladiums, Orchids, (of some kinds), Cissus, Passifloras, Clerodendrons, Peperomias, Cobeeas, Poinsettia, Crotons, Salvias, Coleus, Sanchezias, . Dracenas, Torenias, Euphorbias, Tropzolums, Epiphyllums—Cactus, Tuberoses. Eranthemums, This matter of temperature has everything to do with the successful cultivation of plants In rooms, or in fact anywhere. If you attempt, for example, to grow Bon- yardias or Begonias in an average temperature of 45° at night, the plants will barely live, and will not flower, nor be healthy. On the other hand, if you subject your Camellias or Geraniums to an average of 65° at night by fire heat m winter, you are almost certain to have the flowers drop prematurely. As arule, there are more of the plants known as greenhouse that will endure the ay PARLOR GARDENING. ' 81 high temperature necessary for the hot-house plants, than there are of the hot-house plants that can stand the low temperature, so when no distinction can be made, and a high temperature only can be had, all in the list of greenhouse plants I have marked with a * may be grown fairly in the high temperature, though they would do better in the low one. ‘The culture of plants in rooms is already described in the chapter on ‘‘ Winter Flowering Plants,” so that I need not further allude to it, except to hint in regard to the man- ner of placing the plants. One of the cheapest and neat- est contrivances is the ‘‘ fold- ing plant stand,” (fig. 31). The sizes are from 3 to 6 feet wide, and 8 feet high, having from 4 to 6 shelves, and cap- able of holding from 25 to 100 plants. It is hinged so as to fold up like a camp stool, the shelves fitting in between the frames, and can be thus shipped or stowed away when not wanted, with great con- venience. Rollers can be attached to the feet, so that it may be moved about aseasily asa table. Plants, when placed on this, or similar stands, may be provided with saucers, so that the floor or carpet need not be injured while water- ing. Itis not a good plan, however, to keep water in the saucers. It is always a safer way of feeding the plant to water the soil on the top, giving only enough for it to reach the bottom, where, if any water pass through, it will be held by the saucer. If no saucers are used, and we think plants are generally grown more safely without them, the best plan is, to take down the plants from the stand, (three times a week will usually be enough), to some place where the water will not do any Injury, and give all such as appear to be dry, a good Fig. 31.—FOLDING PLANT STAND. 82 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. soaking ; those not so dry, water more sparingly, and give those in which the soil shows that it is wet, none what- ever. Let the water drain off, pick off any dead leaves, and replace the pots again on the stand, being careful to change them as far as possible, so that each side of the plant may get its fair share of light; if the same part is always placed to the light, the plant will soon become drawn to one side. CHAPTER XXYV., WARDIAN CASES, FERNERIES, AND JARDINIERES. The forms of plant cases for the growth of such:plants as require a moist, still atmosphere, a condition impossi- ble to obtain in a room in a dwelling nor even in a greenhouse, unless it is specially ¢ ri : erected for.the purpose, are numer- it il ous. The form commonly ne ue as the Wardian Case, (fig. 32), h a base or tray usually of black a . nut, about 6 inches deep, and lined || with zinc, and glass sides and top 3 these differ in size, some being as | large as 3 feet on the sides. Another } | me and cheaper form is made of £ 4 Terra Cotta, (fig. 33), or other } is | earthen ware; these are usually round in shape, and of various Ms: S2.... White Alder. Deuicia aeairas. 3. 6 ws is ea eae es ney o£ Rough Deutzia. < crenaia fl. gh. coc dei es ns 2 eee Oy QTALMAR cae. he ge eee ee Slender ‘ EWOnyMUsS AtvOPUTPureUs ..cecccecevees Burning Bush. da latifolius .\. oisets couse eee Broad-leaved do. Porsythia viridis... ccc cade ce canes Golden Bell. Hlalesia TtvagHev a, ooo 5. ac deaameeee wae Silver ‘ Hithscus Syrigcius fl. he os. ess cee Rose of Sharon, double. Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora....... Great-panicled Hydrangea. 34 ATOPIC BUE 5 U's GISSUUlOTE 5. 3 io ss sas yee ee Early AE ag tN SE Narcissus b1florus. c00 8-02 c2-8 inne ee Primrose Peerless. * WOCRCUS - se ho ee Poet’s Narcissus. os SONGUIG cs 6 Bon oe ee Jonquil. ne Pseudo-narcissus oo... ccc eens Dafiodil, in double and single varieties. (Enothera Missouriensis............000- Missouri Evening Primrose. Peonia offienalis:.. 5.55.2 32: «soca seere Common Peony, and the various hydrids of this and other species,of which there are many fine named sorts. ; Pronia tenuifolia <2. o20055 455 2 Fennel-leaved Peony. a Moutan....... 5 Sibi eee onaeRne Tree smear of which there are many named varieties. ; Fapaver: orienidles ic ene oe eee Oriental Poppy. FPentstemon grandiflorus .... 2.0.0.0 208- Large-flowered Pentstemon. a barbatus var. Torreyi........ Torrey’s a 3 PMROTS oS re ion See Palmer’s st and several other hardy species. Phiox, herbaceous . 4.5.20 5. .s- cae French Lilac. Under this head a great number of florists named varieties may be had. New ones are offered every year, and a good selection of colors makes a grand show. Phior sutnlata nn oda nc tb tee eee eee Moss Pink. Also the white variety. Folemontuan reptams. oss vee wes ves dawee Jacob’s Ladder. es CEPULEUN os cic ss 5 a eee Greek Valerian. SUE DPTIR, Ss Siac Cb wn de 0 oe do Ga Ee Eng. Cowslip. This and the Polyanthus varieties need a moist and shady place. F cortusoides is hardy, and P. Japonica probably so. PYvahrum QArneua. 6a. oe cede eas = Rosy Pyrethrum, the new double varieties. Saxifraga crassifolia .......++ Sa Og 15 Thick-leaved Saxifrage. ” CONMSUA ss duress eo teenne Heart-leaved HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 111 Co OSs ee Stone crop. - emucnebie (ANG VAT.)....2.--....6- Siebold’s Stone crop. Ee eee eee Beautiful ‘ 5 “ ee Showy ef “s and a large number of others, presenting a great variety in foliage and flowers. Sempervivum arachnoideum............. Cobweb Houseleek. * EIEN Soo 5 ca reicin nina Purple-tipped ‘ - I a ee eee Common es Of these curious plants there are more than 50 species in cultivation, and all perfectly hardy ; useful on rock-work. _ is (and double)........ Dropwort. 0 SS eee Palmate Spirea. ee ee Queen of the Meadow. re Queen of the Prairie. Symphytum officinale var..........000 0s Variegated Comfrey. i e Maiden-hair Meadow Rue. Tritoma wvaria, (and vars.)............. Red-hot Poker, needs covering in winter with litter. are Rock Tunica. ee Bear-Grass. PERENNIAL ORNAMENTAL GRASSES. Do OL Es eee Great Reed. : cs NE a ee Variegated Reed. 2 | Beer eo Silvery = : Hrianthus, Ravenne........ cecccceces Ravenna grass. 5. Hulalia Japonica var... ... cee ceee eens Japan Eulalia. i Pemues giiuca.............-. ne gceccess Blue Fescue. 1. Gynerium argenteum.......cceccceeees Pampas grass. Be PenCM TUTGALUM.. oo ese ase Wand-like Panic. 9. Phalaris arundinacea picta............. Ribbon grass. OPM PIENIUNE EE Sn on ke tow cea ceses Feather grass. In the climate of New York, Nos. 1, 2 and 7 need protection ; Nos. 1 and 2 by litter over the roots, and No. 7 by covering it with a cask or box. In the order of their hight, No. 6 is 6 inches, 9 and 10 a foot, 5 and 8, 3 to 4 feet, and 1, 2, 3, 4, and 7 from 6 to 12 feet, according to the age of the plants. 112 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. CHAPTER _XXXV. ANNUAL FLOWERING PLANTS. To make a selection from the bewildering number of varieties now offered in our seed catalogues, 1s an inter- esting, though it may be sometimes rather a perplexing operation. It is not very easy to give specific advice in the matter, as tastes are so varied. We would say, in general terms though, be shy of ‘‘novelties” until you see them recommended in the lists the second year ; you may then know that their merits have been tested and they are given permanent place. We have been import- ers of all such ‘‘ novelties” for over twenty years, and think ourselves lucky if we get one good thing for every nineteen worthless ones we try. Still, to get the good things, all that are offered must be tried, and subjected to the sifting process—separating the chaff from the wheat. We can only use space to enumerate a few gen- erally favorite kinds, which we give in the list below; this comprises such as are of easiest cultivation, and are most valued for the beauty or fragrance of their flowers. Asters, Escholtzia, Nasturtiums, Balsams, Geraniums, Nemophila, Candytufts, Globe Amaranths, Pansy, Cannas, Helichrysums, Petunia, *Canary Bird Flower, Ice Plant, ) | Phlox Drummondii, Carnations, *Tpomea, Poppy, Clarkias, Lobelia, Portulaca, Cockscombs, Lupines, Scabiosa, Collinsia, Lychnis, : Schizanthus, *Convolvulus, Marigolds,, *Sweét Peas, *Cypress Vine, Mignonnette, Stocks, Delphiniums,(Larkspur) Mimosa,(Sensitive-plant) Zinnias, Dianthus, Those Marked * are climbers. I have used the popular . and scientific names indis- criminately in the way they are given in most seed cata- ANNUAL FLOWERING PLANTS. £13 logues, as this will facilitate reference to them for descriptions. The rule for the sowing of seeds already given in the chapter ‘‘ Propagation of Plants by Seeds,” applies to sowing the seeds of annuals whether in the hot- bed or greenhouse, to obtain plants to set in the open border, or sowing at once in the open border. ‘The coy- ering of the seeds should in every case be of a light ma- terial. ‘Thus, if the soil of your flower-garden is hard and rough, be sure that the surface on which the delicate seeds are to be sown is made smooth and level, and that it is covered with a fine light soil, such as leaf-mold, in . the manner described in the chapter referred to. Proba- bly three-fourths of all the flower-seeds that are sown by amateurs never germinate, and for no other reason than that they have not been properly treated. One sows a tropical seed, such as Portulaca, in March, and wonders that it does not start to grow; by May, the time it should be sown in the ground, the spot has become covered with weeds, and the tiny plant, if it comes now at all, is choked and killed. Another reverses the order and wonders that the hardy Pansy seeds which are sown in June, fail to grow, orif they grow, fail to bloom in the dog days. Our seed catalogues are nearly all defective in not giving more specific directions for the culture of an- nual plants ; if the space used for description of form and color was devoted to telling the time and manner of sow- ing, it would be of far more benefit to the amateur buyer, but nearly all follow the English practice of giving de- . scriptions of varietiesonly. ‘There the necessity for such information is less, the people being better informed as to flower culture, and the climate is also more congenial for germination of most seeds. 114 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. CHAPTER XXX¥E FLOWERS WHICH WILL GROW IN THE SHADE. There are few plants that will flower in places from which sunshine is entirely excluded. Some plants will grow well enough, developing shoots and leaves, but flowers of nearly all kinds must have some sunshine. Of those that do well and flower when planted out in the open ground where sunlight only comes for two or three hours during the day, may be named the following: Calceolarias, Fuchsias, Lobelias, Herbaceous Phloxes, Pansies, Forget-me-nots, Lily of the Valley, and other herbaceous plants and shrubs whose native habitat is shady woods. Perhaps a better effect is produced in such situations by ornamental leaved plants, such as Co- leuses of all kinds, Amaranths, Achyranthes, Caladi- ums, Cannas, and other plants with high colored or orna- mental leaves. With these may be combined the differ- ent styles of white or gray-leaved plants, such as Centau- reas, Cinerarias, Gnaphaliums—plants known under the general popular term of ‘‘ Dusty Millers.” For our own part we much prefer to devote shaded situations to such plants, rather than to see the abortive attempts to produce fiowers made by plants in positions where there is no sun- shine. It may be here remarked that the cultivator of plants in rooms should understand the necessity of sun- light to plants that are to flower, and endeavor to get them as near as possible to a window having an eastern or a southern aspect. The higher the temperature, the more plants suffer for the want of light. Many plants, such as Geraniums, Fuchsias, or Roses, might remain in a temperature of 40 degrees, in a cellar for example, away from direct light for months without material injury, while if the cellar contained a furnace keeping up a tem- INSECTS. 115 perature of 70 degrees, they would all die before the win- ter was ended, particularly if the plants were of a half hardy nature. If tropical species, they might stand it better, but all plants quickly become enfeebled when kept at high temperature and away from the light. CHAPTER XXXVII. INSECTS. When insects attack plants in the greenhouse, parlor, or anywhere under cover, we can generally manage to get them under control, but when they attack plants in the open air, it is according to our experience, difficult to destroy them. Insects are injurious to plants in the open air in two principal ways: some attack the branches and leaves, and others infest the roots. When insects attack the roots of a plant, we have been able to do but little to stop their ravages. We can manage somewhat better with those attacking the leaves, but even this di- vision of the enemy is often too much forus. As a pre- ventive, we would strongly advise that birds of all kinds should be encouraged. Since the European sparrows have favored us with their presence in such numbers, in- sects of nearly all kinds have much decreased. Most people will remember the disgusting ‘‘ measuring worm ” that festooned the shade-trees in New York, Brooklyn, and other cities ten years ago; these made their exit al- most in proportion to the increase of sparrows, and now hardly one is to be seen. The same is true of the Rose slug. In my rose grounds, a few years ago, we were obliged to employ a number of boys for weeks during the summer to shake off and kill the Rose slug in order to 116 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. keep the plants alive, but since we have had the sparrows in such numbers, hardly one of these pests is now seen. An examination of the crop of a sparrow killed in July, showed that it contained Rose slugs, Aphis, or green-fly, and the seeds of chickweed and other plants, proving beyond question the fact that they are promiscuous feed- ers. The Rose slug, (Selandria rose), referred to above, isa light green, soft insect, varying from *|,, of an inch to nearly an inch in length. There are apparently two — species or varieties, one of which eats only the cuticle of the lower side of the leaf, the other eats it entire. ‘The first is by far the most destructive here. In a few days after the plants are attacked they appear as if they had been burned. An excellent application for the prevention of the ravages of the Rose slug is whale-oil soap dissolved in the proportion of one lb. to eight gallons of water, this, if steadily applied daily for a week with a syringe on Rose plants, before the leaf has developed in spring, will en- tirely prevent the attacks of the insect. But we find that if the slug once gets fairly at work, this remedy is powerless unless used so strong as to injure the leaves. The Rose-Bug, (Macrodactylus subspinosus), or Rose Chaffer, gets its name from the preference it shows for the buds and blossoms of the Rose, though it is equally destructive to the Dahlia, Aster, Balsam, and many other flowers, and especially grape blossoms. All the or- dinary remedies seem to fail with the Rose-bug, and it can only be stopped by picking it off by hand. | Green-Fly, or Aphis, is one of the most common, but fortunately most easily destroyed, of any insect that in- fests plants, either in-doors or out. In our greenhouses, as - already stated, we fumigate twice a week, by burning about half a pound of refuse tobacco stems, (made damp), to every 500 square feet of glass surface, but in private greenhouses or on plants in rooms, fumigating is often impracticable. Then the tobacco stems can be INSECTS. LE yy: used by steeping one pound in five gallons of water, un- til the water gets to be the color of strong tea. This liquid applied over and under the leaves with a syringe, will destroy the insect quite as well as by fumigating, only in either case the application should be made before the insects are seen, to prevent their coming rather than to destroy them when established ; for often by neglect they get a foothold in such legions that all remedies be- come ineffectual to dislodge them. Another means of preventing the green-fly is to apply tobacco in the shape of dust. ‘The sweepings of tobacco warehouses, which can be found for sale in most seed or agricultural establishments, at a cost of five to ten cents per pound. This applied once or twice a week to an ordinary sized private greenhouse, would effectually prevent any injury from green-fly. No special quantity of this need be prescribed, all that is necessary is to see that it is so dusted on that it reaches all parts of the plant and on both sides of the leaves. It is best to slightly syringe the plants beforehand, so that the dust will adhere to the leaves. When applied to plants out-doors, it should be done in the morning when the dew is on. Fruit-trees of many kinds, shrubs, and Roses of all kinds, out of doors, are particularly liable tc injury from some species of Aphis, but the application of tobacco dust, if made in - time, will be found a cheap and effectual remedy. Ground or Blue Aphis, is a close relative of the pre- ceeding, but it gets its living from the roots down in the soil, while the Green Aphis feeds in the air on the leaves. The Blue Aphis attacks a great many varieties of plants, particularly in hot, dry weather, and whenever Asters, Verbenas, Petunias, Centaureas, or such plants begin to droop, it will be found on examination, in three cases out of four, that the farthest extremities of their roots are completely surrounded by the Blue Aphis. The only remedy we have ever found for this pest is a strong de- ps * = ‘ iy ; — >. ae 118 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. coction of tobacco, made so strong as to resemble strong coffee in color. The earth around the plants must be soaked with this so that the lowest roots will be reached. The tobacco water will not hurt the plants, but will be fatal to the insect, and if it has not already damaged the roots to too great an extent, may prove a remedy. Ants.—These are not usually troublesome unless in great numbers, yet when they appear in strong force they are often very destructive. About the simplest method we have found to get rid of them, is to lay fresh bones around the infested plants; they will leave everything to feed on these, and when thus accumulated may be easily destroyed. The Red Spider is one of the most insidious enemies of plants, both when under glass and in the open air in summer. It luxuriates in a hot and dry atmosphere, and the only remedy that I can safely recommend to am- ateurs, 1s copious syringings with water,.1f in the green- house, so that a moist atmosphere can be obtained. This, of course, is not practicable when plants are grown in rooms, and the only thing that can then be done is to sponge off the leaves. It is this insect, more than any thing else, that makes it so difficult to grow plants in the dry air of the sitting-room, as it may be sapping the life blood from a plant, and its owner never’ discover the cause of his trouble. It is so minute as hardly to be seen by the naked eye, but its ravages soon show, and if the leaves of your plants begin to get brown, an exami- nation of the under-surface of the leaf will usually reveal the little pests in great numbers. When they get thus established there is no remedy but to sponge the leaves thoroughly with water, or weak soapsuds. The Mealy Bug, as it is generally called, is a white mealy or downy-looking insect, which is often very trou- blesome among hot-house plants, but rarely does any harm amongst those that can live in a cool room, as no ae INSECTS. 119 doubt it is a native of some tropical country, and can only exist in such a temperature as is required by plants of that kind. ‘There are various remedies used by florists, but the use of nearly all of them might do more harm than good in inexperienced hands, and I therefore advise that they should only be destroyed by being washed off such plants as Gardenias, or rubbed off of more tender leaved plants with a soft brush ; or where there are but few, they may be readily picked off by the use of a quill sharpened like a toothpick. Brown and White Scale Insects.—These appear life- less, and adhere closely to the stems of such plants as — Oleanders, Ivies, etc., and like the Mealy Bug are best destroyed by being washed or rubbed off. Thrips.—This is an insect varying in color from light yellow to dark brown, and much more active in its move- ments than the Green-Fly, and more difficult to destroy ; when it once gets a foothold it is very destructive. It succumbs to tobacco, in any of the forms recommended for the destruction of Green-Fly, but not so readily. It luxuriates in shaded situations, and generally abounds where plants are standing too thickly together, or where ventilation or light is deficient. It may be safely as- serted that in any well regulated place where plants are kept, no injury from insects will ever become serious if due attention has been given to keeping the atmos- phere of the place moist, and using tobacco freely in any of the forms we have recommended. The Angle Worm.—This is the common worm seen in every soil in pots and in the open ground. It is harmless so far as feeding goes, for it seems never to touch plants as food, but it bores and crawls around in a way by no means beneficial to pot-grown plants; it is, however, easily dislodged ; by slaking a quart of lime and adding water to make up ten gallons of the liquid, and watering the plants with it after it has become 120 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. clear, the caustic qualities of the lime will be quickly fatal to the worm. ea ee CHAPTER XXXVIIL MILDEW. Mildew is a parasitical fungus, often seen on greenhouse and other plants, and is quickly destructive to their health. But as with all other plant troubles, it is best to prevent rather than cure. Care should be taken, particularly where roses or grape Vines are grown under glass, as both of these are especially lable to be attacked, to avoid a rapid change of temperature, or a long exposure to sud- den chill by draughts in ventilating. As soon as spots of grayish-white appear on the leaves of roses or grape- vines, either out-doors or under glass, it is certain that mildew is present, but if it has not been neglected too long, the followmg preparation will usually be found a prompt remedy. ‘Take three pounds each of flowers of sul- phur and quick-lime, put together and slake the lime, and add six gallons of water ; boil all together until it is re- duced to two gallons, allow the liquid to settle until it gets clear, then bottle for use. One gill only of this is to be mixed in five gallons of water, and syringed over the plants in the evening, taking care not to use it on the fruit when ripe, as it would communicate a taste and smell which would render it useless. Applied in this weak state, it does not injure the leaves, and yet has the power to destroy the low form of vegetable growth, which we call mildew. We apply it just as we do tobacco, once or twice a. week, as a preventive, and we rarely have a speck of mildew. . FROZEN PLANTS. Tat CHAPTER XXXIX. FROZEN PLANTS. When by any mishap the plants, whether in parlor or greenhouse, become frozen, either at once remove them, (taking care not to touch the leaves), tosome piace warm enough to be just above the point of freezing ; if there are too many to do that, get up the fire as rapidly as possible and raise the temperature. The usual advice is to sprinkle the leaves and shade the plants from the sun. We have never found either remedy of any avail with frozen plants, and the sprinkling is often a serious in- jury if done before the temperature is above the freezing point. In our experience with thousands of frozen plants, we have tried all manner of expedients, and found no better method than to get them out of the freezing at- mosphere as quickly as possible, and we have also found that the damage is in proportion to the succulent condi- tion of the plant, and the intensity of the freezing. Just what degree of cold plants in any given condition can en- dure without injury, we are unable to state. Plants are often frozen so that the leaves hang down, but when thawed out are found to be not atall injured ; at another time the same low temperature acting on the same kind of plants may kill them outright if they happen to be growing more thriftily, and are full of sap. When the frost is penetrating into a greenhouse or room in which plants are kept, and the heating arrangements are inade- quate to keep it out, the best thing to do is to cover the plants with paper, (newspapers), or sheeting ; thus pro- tected, most plants will be enabled to resist four or five degrees of frost ; paper is rather better than sheeting for this purpose. 7 6 122 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. CHAPTER XL. MULCHING. Litter of any kind placed around newly planted trees to prevent evaporation from the soil, was the original meaning of mulch, but it is at present extended to in- clude a covering of the soil applied at any time, and for very different purposes. Good cultivators apply hay, straw, or other litter to the surface of the soil to protect the roots of certain plants against the action of frost, it being useful, not so much against freezing as to prevent the alternate freezing and thawing, that is apt to occur in our variable and uncertain climate, even in mid-win- ter. As mentioned under strawberry culture, the mulch applied in the fall protects the roots during winter, it is allowed to remain on the bed where, if thick enough, it keeps down weeds, and prevents the evaporation of mois- ture from the soil during the dry time we are apt to have between the flowering and the ripening of the strawberry. Besides all this, it makes a clean bed for the fruit to rest upon, and should a driving shower come up as the fruit is ripening, there is no danger that the berries will be splashed with mud and spoiled. The utility of a mulch is not confined to the strawberry among fruits; raspber- ries and currants are much benefitted by it, and by its use a gardener of my acquaintance succeeds in growing fine crops of the fine varieties of English gooseberries, a fruit with which very few succeed in our hot summers. Newly planted trees, whether of fruit or ornamental kinds, are much benefitted by a mulch, and its applica- tion often settles the question of success or failure. We have known a whole pear orchard to be mulched, and the owner thought its cost was more than repaid by saving MULCHING. 123 the fallen fruit from bruises. The rooting of a layer is by some gardeners thought to be facilitated by placing a flat stone over the buried branch; the fact being that the stone acts as a mulch, and prevents the soil around the cut portion from drying out, and greatly favors the rooting process. yen in the vegetable garden, mulch- ing is found useful, especially with cauliflowers, which find our summers quite too dry. The material.of the _ mulch is not of much importance, the effect being purely mechanical, one kind of litter will answer as well as an- other ; the material will be governed in great measure by - locality ; those living near salt water will find salt-hay, as hay from the marshes is called, the most readily pro- cured ; those who live near pine forests use the fallen leaves, or pine needles as they are called; in the grain growing districts straw is abundant, and nothing can be better ; it can be applied more thoroughly if run through a cutter, though the thrashing machine often makes it short enough. Leaves are nature’s own mulch, and an- swer admirably; if there is danger of their being blown away, brush laid over them, or even a little earth sprink- led on them will keep them in place. Tan-bark and saw- dust may serve for some uses, but they are very bad for strawberries, their finer particles being about as objec- tionable as the soil. One of the best materials to use for summer mulching is the green grass mowed from lawns. This applied to the thickness of two or three mches around the roots of all kinds of small fruits, will be found not only to greatly benefit the crop, particularly in dry weather, but will save greatly in labor by preventing the growth of weeds. One of our best private gardeners in the vicinity of New York has adopted this summer mulching with the grass from the lawn for nearly twenty years, and has succeeded in growing all kinds of small fruits in the highest degree of perfection. 124 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. CHAPTER XLI. ARE PLANTS IN ROOMS INJURIOUS TO HEALTH? The question whether plants may be safely grown in living rooms is now settled by scientific men, who show that whatever deleterious gases may be given out by plants at night they are so minute in quantity that no injury is ever done by their presence in the rooms and by being inhaled. Though we were glad to see the question disposed of by such authority, ex- perience had already shown that no bad effects ever resulted from living in apartments where plants were grown. Our greenhouses are one mass of foliage, and I much doubt if any healthier class of men can be found than those engaged in the care of plants. But timid per- sons may say that the deleterious gases are given out only at night, while our greenhouse operatives are only em- ployed in daylight. This is only true in part. Our watchmen and men engaged in attending to fires at night make the warm greenhouses their sitting-room and their sleeping-room, and I have yet to hear of the first instance where the slightest injury resulted from this practice. Many of our medical practitioners run in old ruts. Some Solomon among them probably gave out this dogma a century ago, 1t was made the convenient scape- goat of some other cause of sickness, and the rank and file have followed in his train. A belief-in this error often consigns to the cellar, or to the cold winds of win- ter, the treasured floral pets of a household. SHADING. 125 CHAPTER XUIL SHADING. In mulching the object is to prevent evaporation from the soil, as well as to shield the roots from sudden changes of temperature ; it is often necessary to protect the whole plant in this respect, and this is accomplished by shading. Although on a large scale, we can do little | in the way of shading plants in the open ground, yet the amateur will often find it of great utility, as screening will frequently save a recently transplanted plant, which without it would be quite ruined by a few hours’ exposure to the sun. For shading small plantsin the border, such as transplanted annuals, a few shingles will be found very useful, one or two of these can be stuck in the ground so as to completely protect the delicate plant and yet not deprive it of air. Six-inch boards of half-inch stuff nailed together to form a V shaped trough are very use- fulin the garden; they are handy to place over small plants during cold nights, and may be turned over and set to make a screen against strong winds, or used for shading plants in rows. Seedlings often suffer from the heat of the sun in the middle of the day; the seedlings of even the hardiest forest trees are very delicate when young. ‘The seeds of such trees when sown naturally al- most always fall where the young plant will be shaded, and the amateur who experiments in this very interesting branch of horticulture, the raising of evergreen and de- ciduous trees and shrubs from seed, will find it necessary to imitate nature and protect his young seedlings from the intense heat of the sun. ‘There are several ways of doing this ; if the seeds have been sown in an open bor- der, let him take twigs about a foot long, evergreen if 126 GARDENING TOR PLEASURE. they can be had, but if not, those from any deciduous tree, and stick them a few inches apart all over the bed. This will give the seedlings very much such a protection as they would naturally have had in the shade of other plants, and though evergreens will look better for a while, the dead leaves of deciduous twigs will give quite as use- fula shade. It is always safer to sow seeds in a frame, as the young plants are then under more complete con- trol. Frames are easily shaded by means of a lattice made of common laths. Strips of inch stuff an inch and a half or two inches wide, are used for the sides of the lattice, and laths are nailed across as far apart as their own width. One lath being nailed on, another is laid down to mark the distance, the third one put down and nailed, and the second lath is moved along to mark the distance for the fourth, and so on. With ascreen of this kind there is abundant light, but the sun does not shine long at a time on one spot, and the plants have a con- stantly changing sun and shade. ‘This lath screen may be used for shading plants in the. open ground if sup- ported at a proper hight above them. In a propagating hotise, where it is necessary, as it often is, to shade cut- tings, a lattice laid upon the outside of the glass answers a good purpose. The laths are sometimes tied together with strong twine, the cord answering the place of slats, and serving as a warp with which the laths are woven ; the advantage of a screen of this kind is that it can be “rolled up. Plants kept in windows during the summer months will, if in a sunny exposure, require some kind of a shade, and if the one provided to keep the sun from the room shuts out too much light, or excludes air as well as sun, something must be provided which will give protection during the heat of the day, and still allow sufficient light and an abundant circulation of air. Any one with ingenuity can arrange a screen of white cotton cloth to answer the purpose. SHADING, 12% The old practice of stripping the greenhouse in sum- mer is falling into disuse, and by a proper selection of plants and sufficient shade, it is made as attractive then as at any other season, but even for tropical plants the glass must be shaded. Jor a small lean-to, a screen of light canvass or muslin arranged upon the outside, so that it may be wound up on a roller when not wanted will answer, and if it be desired to keep the house as cool as possible, this should be so contrived that there will be a space of six inches or so between that and the glass. But upon a large house, or one with a curvilinear roof, - this is not so manageable, and the usual method is to coat the glass with some material which will obstruct a part of the light. The most common method is to give the outside of the glass a coat of ordinary lime whitewash ; this makes a sufficient shade, and is gradually dissolved by the rains, so that by autumn the coating is removed, or so nearly so that what remains may be readily washed off. A more pleasant effect is produced by spattering the glass with the same wash, which can be done by a dex- terous use of the brush and flirting it so as to leave the wash in numerous fine drops, like rain-drops. Others use whiting and milk for the same purpose. Whatever may be the means of effecting it, we find that in this lat- itude shading of some kind is required from about the Ist - of May to the middle of September by nearly all plants grown under glass. Ferns, Lycopods, Caladiums, Primu- las, Fuchsias, Begonias, Gloxinias, Achimenes, Lobelias, Smilax, and plants of that character require the glass to be heavily shaded, while for Roses, Carnations, Bouvardias, Poinsettias, Geraniums of all kinds, and nearly all suc- culent plants, do not need so much. The method of spattering the glass outside with thin whitewash, allows the shading to be light or heavy, as required. When first done, it is spattered very thinly, merely to break the strong glare of the sun, just about thick enough to half 128 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. cover the surface. As the season advances, the spatter- ing should be repeated to increase the shade, but at no time for the plants last mentioned do we entirely cover the glass. In England, especially for fern houses, Brunswick green mixed with milk is used, to give a green shade, which is thought to be best suited to these plants. The blue glass for greenhouses which was so highly lauded a few years ago, has not met with much favor, but recent experiments in glazing with ground glass have given such results as to warrant a more careful investigation into the use of this material. CHAPTER XLIIL THE LAW OF COLOR IN FLOWERS. I refer to this matter in the hope that it may be the means of saving some of my readers, not only from being duped and swindled, by a class of itinerant scamps that annually reap a rich harvest in disposing of impossibili- ties in flowers, but that I may assure them of the utter improbability of their ever seeing such wonders as these fellows offer, thereby saving them from parting with money for worthless objects, and from the ridicule of their friends who are already better advised. This sub- ject cannot be too often brought before our amateur hor- ticulturists. Warnings are given year after year in lead- ing agricultural and other journals devoted to gardening, yet a new crop of dupes is always coming up who readily fall victims to the scoundrels who live upon their credu- lity. Nota season passes but some of these swindling dealers have the audacity to plant themselves right in THE LAW OF COLOR IN FLOWERS. 129 the business centers of our large cities, and hundreds of our sharp business men glide smoothly into their nets. The very men who will chuckle at the misfortunes of a poor rustic when he falls into the hands of a mock auctioneer, or a pocket-book dropper, will freely pay $10 for a rose plant of which a picture has been shown them as having a blue flower ; the chance of its coming blue being about equal to the chance that the watch of the mock auctioneer will be gold. It has long been known among the best observers of such matters, that in certain families of plants, particular colors prevail, and that in — no single instance can we ever expect to see blue, yellow, and scarlet colors in varieties of the same species. If any one at all conversant with plants will bring any family of them to mind, it will at once be seen how undeviating is this law. In the Dahlia we have scarlet and yellow, but no approach to blue, so in the Rose, Hollyhock, etc. Again in the Verbena, Salvia, etc., we have scarlet and blue, but no yellow! It we reflect it will be seen that there is nothing out of the order of nature in this arrange- ment. We never expect to see among our poultry with their varied but somber plumage, any assume the azure hues of our spring Blue-bird, or the dazzling tints of the Oriole ; why then should we expect nature to step out of what seems her fixed laws, and give usa blue Rose, a blue Dahlia, or a yellow Verbena? ikea oe de A, J ial? m AeA ' Sand eee i ee er UIT GARDEN. ~—= PRUNING. 133 CHAPTER XLIV. PRUNING. Though the chapter on pruning is placed at the com- mencement of that division of the work which treats upon fruits, the fact must not be lost sight of that prun- ing is often quite as necessary upon trees and shrubs cul- tivated for their flowers or foliage as upon those grown for their fruit. In pruning we cut away some portion of a tree, shrub, or other plant, for the benefit of that which remains, and whether performed upon a branch six inches through, or upon a shoot so tender as to be cut by the thumb-nail, is essentially the same. The operation, though very simple, is one which the amateur often fears to undertake, and having no confidence in his own ability, he often employs some jobbing gar- dener, who has no fears on this or any other gar- _dening matter. Pruning is done for various ends, and unless one has a definite reason for doing it, he had better leave it undone : Many have an idea that pruning must, for some reason, be done every year, just as it used to be thought necessary for people to be bled every spring, whether well or ill. We prune to control the shape of a tree or shrub, and by directing the growth from one part to another, obtain a symmetrical form, especially in fruit trees, where it is desirable that the weight of fruit be equally distributed. In some trees where the fruit is grown only on the wood of the previous season, the bear- ing portions are each year removed further and further from the body of the tree; in such cases a shortening of the growth each year will cause the formation of a com- pact head instead of the loose straggling that results when this is omitted. We prune to renew the vigor of a plant ; the inexperienced cannot understand how cutting ,: : a ae iden’ 134 3 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. away a third, a half, or even more of a plant can improve it in vigor and fruitfulness, or abundance and size of flowers. Let us suppose that a stem which grew last year has 20 buds upon it; if this is allowed to take its own course in the spring, a few of the upper buds will push with great vigor, and form strong shoots; those below wiil make gradually weaker shoots, and for probably the lower third of the stem the buds will not start at all; the most vigorous growth is always at the top, the buds there were the last formed in the previous summer, are the most excitable, and the soonest to grow the next spring, and getting the start of those below them, they draw the nourishment to themselves and starve the others. If, instead of allowing this stem to grow at will in this man- ner, it had been, before any of the buds started, cut back to leave only a few of the lower ones, those hay- ing an abundance of nutriment would push forth with great vigor and be nearly equal in size, while the flowers or fruit borne upon them would be greatly superior to those upon the unpruned stem. Any one can readily be con- vinced of the utility of pruning by taking two rose-bushes of equal size, leaving one without any pruning to take care of itself, and each spring cutting the other back se- | verely, pruning away one-third or one-half of the wood that was formed the previous season. The result at the end of two years will be very striking. No general rule can be given for pruning; the amateur should use his eyes, and notice the habit of growth of his trees and shrubs. He will find that many, like the rose, produce their flowers upon the new wood of the present season, and that such plants are greatly benefitted by cutting back more or less each spring. But there are other plants for which this treatment will not answer; if we examine a horse-chestnut-tree, or a lilac-bush, and many others, we shall find that the flowers come from the large buds that were formed on the end of last season’s growth, (aa eee + Late PRUNING, ; 135 and that to cut back such plants would be to remove all the flower-buds. With shrubs of-this kind, all that need be done is to thin out the branches where they are too crowded. ‘These examples will warn the novice against indiscriminate pruning, and unless as he stands before his shrub or tree, knife in hand, he knows why he is to prune and how, let him put his knife in his pocket, and give the plant the benefit of the doubt. While under the different fruits we can give directions for the partic- ular pruning required by each, the proper method of treating a miscellaneous collection of ornamental shrubs and trees can only be learned by observation. ‘The term pruning is generally applied to the cutting away, in whole or in part, of the ripened wood, but much pruning may be done by the use of the thumb and finger; this is termed pinching, and is practiced upon young shoots while they are yet soft. ‘This most useful form of prun- ing allows us to control the form of a plant with the greatest ease, and is applied not only to soft-wooded plants, but to trees and shrubs, and may be so performed on these as to'render nearly, if not quite, all pruning of ripened wood unnecessary. If a vigorous shoot has its end or ‘‘ growing point” pinched out it will cease to elongate, but will throw out branches below, the growth of which may be controlled in the same manner; the blackberry illustrates the utility of this kind of pruning ; the rampant growing shoot which springs up from the root will, if left to itself, make a long cane six or eight feet high, and with a very few branches near the top ; if when this shoot has reached four, or at most five feet, its end be pinched off, it will then throw out numerous branches, and if the upper branches, when they reach the length of 18 inches, be ‘‘ stopped,” (as it is called), in a similar manner, by pinching, the growth will be directed to the lower ones, and by the end of the season instead of a long, unmanageable wand, there will be a well- 136 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. ~ branched bush which will bear its fruit all within reach. The grower of plants in pots is usually afraid to remove even a single inch of the stem, and the result is usually alot of ‘‘leggy ” specimens not worth the care that is otherwise bestowed upon them. Plants may be prevented from ever reaching this condition, if their growth be properly controlled by pinching ; but if they have once reached it, they should be cut back severely, and a com- pact bushy form obtained from the new shoots which will soon start. The mechanical part of pruning is very sim- ple, a sharp knife is the best implement, as it makes a clean cut, without bruising 4 the bark, and the wound Wb quickly heals ; but shears are IS much easier to handle, and : the work can be done so much more quickly, that they are generally preferred, and | for rampant growing bushes will answer, but upon fruit- | trees, and choice plants gen- erally, the knife is to be pre- ferred. The cut should be m : i made just ata joint; not so Fig. 48. Fig. 49.\ Fig. 50. far above it as to leave q WHERE TO CUT IN PRUNING. stub, as in fig. 49, which will die back to the bud, there being nothing to contribute to its growth ; nor should it be made so close to the bud as to endanger it, as in fig. 48; the cut should start just opposite the lower part of the bud and end just above its top, as in fig. 50. For the removal of branches too large to cut with the knife, as must sometimes be done on neglected trees, a saw is required. Saws are made especially for the purpose, but any narrow one with the teeth set wide will answer; the rough cut left by the saw should be pared smooth, and if an inch or more in diameter, the wound should be cov- PRUNING. Laz ered ; ordinary paint, melted grafting wax, or shellac varnish will answer to protect the bare wood from air and moisture, and prevent decay. In pruning it is well to remember that the future shape of the tree will be materially affected by the position upon the branch oi the bud to which the cut is made; the upper bud left on the branch will continue the growth, and the new shoot will be in the direction of that bud. If a young tree is, as in fig. 51, to have all its branches_ shortened, and each is cut to a bud, A, pointing to- wards the center of the tree, the tendency of the new growth will all be inward, as in fig. 52; while if all be cut to an outside bud, B, the result will be to spread the growth, as in fig. 53. As to the time of pruning, about which there has been much discussion, it may be done on small stems at any time after the fall of the leaf, before the growth starts in the spring, but for the removal of large branches, late in winter is regarded as the best time. Pinching is of course done whenever it is needed. Fig. 51. Fig. 52. Fig. 58. PRUNING FOR SHAPE. 138 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. CHAPTER Xi¥. HARDY GRAPES. e Grapes can be grown in almost any soil, provided it is not a wet one, although the grape will take abundance of water when in a growing state, it must pass off quickly, else the growth will be impeded. If the ground is not naturally suitable, (2. e., at least a foot in depth of good soil), a border prepared in the manner recommended in the chapter on ‘‘ Cold Grapery,” will well repay the trouble. It is imperative that the position where the vine is planted be such as will enable it to get sunlight for the greater portion of the day. Ten years ago I planted an arbor with an arched top and 100 feet long by 16 feet wide and 10 feet high, covering a walk running east and west ; this gave a south and north exposure. The crop has always been excellent and abundant on the south side, and top of the arbor, but on the north side, (unless the first and second years of fruiting, when there was not sufficient foliage to impede the light), it has been nearly a failure. There is much misconcep- tion as to what should be the age of a grape-vine when planted ; nine-tenths of our amateur customers ask for vines three or four years old. If a vine of that age could be properly lifted with every root unbroken, then there might be some advantage in its greater strength, but as vines are usually grown in the nurseries closely together, with the roots all interlaced, large plants can rarely be got with roots enough to support the vine and maintain its vigor after transplanting. As a rule it is better to plant one or two-year-old vines, which can usually be bought at half the price of those of three or four years old, and ve Fi HARDY GRAPES. 139 which in all probability will give a crop quite as soon, if not sooner, than the large ones. The manner of plant- ing the vine is similar to that of setting any other tree or shrub. The ground must be thoroughly broken up, not in a mere hole only sufficient to hold the roots, but if a regular border has not been made, the place where each vine is to be planted, should not be less than three feet in diameter, and if double that, all the better, and to the depth of not less than a foot. On receiving the vine from the nursery, it may consist of one or more shoots, V | '? ts : Is Fig. 54.—VINE WITH TWO SHOOTS. Fig. 55.—VINE. WITH ARMS. but on planting it should be cut back to only two or three eyes or buds. On starting to grow, all of these buds or eyes should be rubbed off except one, selecting the strong- est. ‘Train this shoot perpendicularly to a stake the first year of its growth, the next fall, when the leaves drop, cut it back to nine or ten inches from the ground. When _ the vine starts the next spring, rub off all eyes or buds except two, which during the season will form two canes, as in fig. 54, These, if they are canes half an inch in 140 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. diameter, are in fall to be pruned to three or four feet long, and the following spring are to be trained hori- zontally, one to the right, the other to the left. If at the end of the second year they are still small, it is better to delay laying down the arms until another year, and grow two upright shoots again, to get them sufficiently strong. These will form the base from which to start the upright shoots, as shown in fig. 55. These upright growths will be the permanent fruiting canes, and should be from 15 to 18 inches apart, and pruned on what is known as the spur system as shown Ye — ==> OF Fig. 56.—VINE SPUR-PRUNED. by fig. 56. ‘There is nothing arbitrary as to the hight these canes should be. It isa matter of convenience or . taste whether they be trained to 3 feet or 15 feet. Vines thus treated may be allowed to produce a few bunches the third year, and by the sixth year, may be fruited to the hight of 10 or 12 feet of cane if desired. Not more than two bunches of fruit should be allowed to each shoot. We give this manner of training as one of the simplest, although the system of training has but little to do with the crop. The distance apart at which grape-vines may be plant- ed, except the Delaware and a few of the weaker grow- ing sorts, is about eight feet; the Delaware may be set one-third closer. Although grape-vines are hardy in nearly all sections, yet in any locality where the ther- HARDY GRAPES. 14] mometer falls to zero, it is beneficial to lay them down close to the ground and cover them up with rough litter before the approach of severe weather in winter, allowing it to remain on in spring until the buds begin to swell, when the vines are uncovered and tied up to the trellis. If covered in this way they should be pruned before lay- ing down. Pruning may be done at any time from No- vember to March. It isa common belief that grape-vines should be pruned only at certain seasons. The weather must not be too cold, otherwise it is supposed they may be injured if then pruned. Again, they must not be pruned late in the spring, else the sap oozing from the cuts may bleed them to death. Let me say that both these notions are utter nonsense. The pruning of any tree or vine in the coldest weather cannot possibly injure, and the ‘‘bleeding” or running of the sap after any or- dinary pruning, can no more hurt the vine than the blood flowing from a pin scratch would weaken a healthy man. ‘This method of covering up the grape-vine is not commonly practised, but we are satisfied that in exposed positions it is well worth the trouble. I have practised it with vines now ten years old, embracing some 20 vari- eties ; my soil isa stiff clay very unsuitable for the grape, yet these vines have kept clear of mildew, when my neighbor’s vines a few hundred yards off have been seri- ously injured by it. I have long believed that intense cold, long continued, is hurtful to even such plants as we call hardy, and the wonderful vigor of these old vines, so treated, seems a good evidence of it. The litter used in covering, (which has become well- rotted by spring), is spread over the border, acting both as asummer mulch and fertilizer. Mildew is the worst enemy to the vine; the same remedy we recommend in this book for mildew on roses, will be found equally effi- -cacious for the grape. On the large scale dry sulphur is used, blown upon the vines by a bellows for the purpose. 142 - GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. Propagation of the grape is done by nurserymen in cas houses, similar to that used for propagating florists plants. But most of the varieties can be grown with fair success by cuttings in the open air. The cuttings, (made from the yess, well ripened shoots of the previous year’s growth), may be made with two (fig. 57) or three buds or eyes, planted in rows, say one foot apart and three inches between the cut- tings, and set so that the top eye or bud only is above ground. The situation where the cuttings are placed should be well exposed to the sun, the soil rich and deep, and of sandy or light character. Care must be taken that the cutting is well firmed in the soil. The cuttings may be made from the prunings at any time during winter, and kept in a damp cellar or buried outside curtrNe. in sand until planted in the cutting-bed in the spring. THE VARIETIES OF THE GRAPE Now number many hundred, and we will recommend only a very few of the most distinct sorts that haye been grown long enough to allow us to be certain of their merits. : Concord is perhaps more universally cultivated than any other. It grows most luxuriantly, bearing bunches of large size abundantly; color black, with a rich blue bloom ; the flavor is of average quality. Ripens during the month of September. ~ Hartford Prolific.—Resembles the Concord in general appearance, but ripens two or three weeks earlier. It is valuable on this account, but in light soils drops its fruit badly, which is quite a drawback. Iona.—Is a seedling of the old Catawba, color pale red, HARDY GRAPES. 143 flavor excellent, fully equal to the Catawba, but it is pref- erable to that variety in ripening fully a month earlier, or from the Ist to 15th of September. One of the best, where it succeeds; it requires a strong soil. Delaware.—Ilts entirely distinct character from any of our hardy grapes, at one time raised the question whether this was not a foreign variety, but that point we believe is now settled, and it is conceded to be a native. In flavor it is unsurpassed, equal to many of our best foreign sorts. Bunches and berries small, of a dark pinkish red color. Rogers’ Hybrids.—These varieties, probably from the unfortunate mistake made by their raiser in designating them by numbers instead of by names, have never, we think, had the popularity they deserve. Some of them are entirely distinct in color and flavor from any other native srapes, and form magnificent bunches. No. 4 (now called Wilder), has berries and bunches of the largest size, ‘black with rich bloom, flavor excellent, ripens September first. No. 15, (Agawam), is a beautiful grape of a bronze color, with pinkish bloom on the side next the sun. It ripens early in September, and we find every season that the grape consumers of our household rarely touch a bunch of any other grape as long as any are left on No. 15. No. 1, (Gceethe), is about the size and color of the white Malaga grape of commerce, tinged with pink on the sunny side, flavor excellent, one of the latest, ripening here in October. No. 19 resembles No. 4, but of an entirely distinct flavor, by some preferred ; ripens 15th of September. yo eS OS Re a ae Z 144 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. CHAPTER XLVI. THE COLD GRAPERY. I know of no addition to a country home from which such a large amount of satisfaction can be obtained at so small an outlay as from a grapery for growing the differ- ent varieties of foreign grapes. It has been proved that none of these fine varieties can be cultivated with any sat- isfaction in any part of the northern or even middle states, except under glass. In California and some other states and territories west of the Mississippi the varie- ties of the European grape have been extensively grown in the open air. There the conditions of climate are such as to make their culture a success equal to that at- tained any where in Europe. Besides the luxury of the grape as a table fruit, no finer sight can be seen, and there is nothing of which an amateur gardener may be more proud than a grapery in which the vines are loaded with - ripe fruit. And as this can be obtained at a trifling original outlay, and with but little attention in the culti- vation afterwards, I will briefly describe how to do it. ~ Our climate is particularly well adapted to the cultiva- tion of vines under glass without fire heat, and the won- der is that cold graperies are not in more general use even by people of moderate means than they at pres- ent are. We built one for our own use on the plan shown on page 92; it answering for a greenhouse as well as for a grapery. The dimensions are 50 feet long by 25 wide. It is finished in very good style, and cost but little more than $1,000. It was planted in June, and the third year from planting we cut upwards of 300 lbs. of fruit from it ; the next season it yielded nearly double that quantity. The building was begun by setting locust posts four feet apart; on these was framed the sill, on THE COLD GRAPERY. 145 the front of which were placed upright sashes two and a half feet in hight, and on these the gutter. From the gutter was sprung the bars, ten inches apart each way, running on the east side clear to the ridge pole; on the west framed to within 2 fect of it, so as to give room for lifting sashes. ‘These were two feet wide by six long. To these sashes, eight in number, were attached Hitch- ing’s patent ventilating apparatus, which by turning a crank opens these sashes from one to twenty-four inches, as desired. ‘The front sashes may be made so that every alternate one can open outward. The glass used is known as second quality English or French, 8x10 inches, and put in without the use of any putty on the top of the glass, the manner of glazing being to ““bed” the pane in soft putty, pressing it down tightly, and then tacking 1 in the glass with rc glazing points about the size shown in fig. 58; we find it an excellent plan i in Util y Wy LIL Ui, glazing to turn up the edgeof \X “Wf these points as in fig. 59, so that W < they cancatchundertheedgeof Fig. 58, Fig. 59. the lapping pane to keep it in TIN. BENT TIN. place, otherwise it would slip down, and give a great deal of trouble. Glaziers will not use the points in this way unless compelled to do so, as it takes a somewhat longer time. Glass should never be lapped more than a quarter of an inch, if much more, the water gets between the laps, and when it freezes the glass is cracked. With these instructions about the erection of the glass and _wood-work, any intelligent mechanic should be able to build from the plan given. Provision for water should be made by building a cistern inside the grapery, say four feet deep by eight feet in diameter, or that capacity in an oblong shape would be better. This cistern can be sup- _ plied by water from the roof, having a waste-pipe for overflow. ‘These general directions for such a structure j 7 146 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. as shown in the cut, are equally applicable for almost any size or kind of grapery. Many are built in the form of a ‘‘lean-to,” that is, placed against any building or fence, using such for the back wall of the grapery. ‘This would necessitate only the low front wail, which need not be more than one foot from the ground, if the width is but ten or twelve feet, but a path would require to be sunk inside to give room to stand upright. ‘The sketch, fig. Fig. 60.—LEAN-TO GRAPERY. 60, shows an outline of a “‘lean-to” grapery twenty feet wide, nine feet high at back and two feet in front. Such a structure, (exclusive of the ‘‘border,”) may be put up © roughly at a cost not exceeding $4 per running foot, without heating apparatus. Its aspect may be any point from east to south-west. | I recollect that some dozen years ago a German jeweler in Jersey City, N. J., grew a splendid crop of Black Ham- burgs on vines which had been planted against the rear fence of his city lot, by placing against the fence some old sashes eight feet long. It was rather a bung- ling sort of an arrangement and awkward to get at, but it served the purpose of ripening the Hamburg grapes, which could not have been done without the glass. When one contemplates the erection of a complete range of gra- .~). Ua ~ (ara si A 2 j peries, the services of a competent garden architect should be engaged. The border of the one we have in use was be- gun by excavating the natural soil to the depth of twenty inches and fifteen feet in width, for the length of the _grapery on each side. The inside was left untouched, the borders being entirely outside. The bottom of the excavation was graded from the front of the building to the outside of the borders, with a fall of about an inch to a foot, so that thorough and rapid drainage would be sure to be attained. At the extremity of each border a drain was built to carry off the water. The whole bot- tom was then cemented over so as to prevent the roots. from penetrating the subsoil. ‘This pit was then filled to the depth of about two feet, (four inches being allowed for settling), with a compost which was previously pre- pared by mixing about three parts of turf taken from the surface of a rather shaly pasture, one part of rotten stable manure, and one part of lime rubbish. It is one of the popular errors that vines for graperies ‘should be two or three years old; the age of a vine usually has but little.to do with its size, and if grape-vines are properly grown the first year from cuttings, they will be quite as good for planting as if two or three years old. In fact it is a question whether a vine grown from a cut- ting in March, and planted in June, is not quite as good as one a year older. Ourexperience has shown that there is hardly a perceptible difference in the two.at the end of the season ; as such vines, however, are too tender to be shipped far, we generally recommend buying one year old vines that may be planted in April, May, or June, hav- ing ripened shoots about three feet in length. ‘These vines are all grown in pots the previous season, and when received the soil should be shaken off entirely, and the roots spread out in the border without injuring them. ‘The root, it will be understood, is planted ow¢side in the bor- der, and the shoot taken inside, through an opening in THE COLD GRAPERY. =} 4g ~ 148 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. the walls. This is made of brick or stone, and should be left open at every three feet, the distance at which the vines should be planted; if the wall is of wood, it can easily be cut to suit the size of the vine. The plants we used were strong one-year-old vines, and were set about June lst. By October they had grown to over twenty feet in length. The varieties used were nine-tenths Black Hamburg, with a few Muscats and Frontignans, all of which have done exceedingly well. In November they were cut back to the bottom of the rafter, or about three feet from the ground, and quickly reached the top again the second year, with firm, well- ripened wood. In November they were again pruned back to about three feet above the foot of the rafter, or six feet from the ground. On this shoot was produced the fruit referred to, (the third year from the time of planting). We prune any time in November or Decem- ber after the leaves have fallen, and cut the shoot back to about four feet from top of the rafter, or about sixteen feet from the ground. Every December we lay ive! vines down along the front wall after being pruned, covering them completely with soil until May, when they are then taken up and tied to the wires, which are *|,, galvanized iron, and run across the rafters 15 inches apart and 15 inches from the glass. The training followed is what is called the ‘‘spur” sys- tem, which is simply to allow one cane or shoot to each rafter, (or at three feet apart), and pruning the side shoots or ‘‘ bearing wood” annually back to one eye. In the summer treatment of the cold grapery, the principle must never be lost sight of, that to keep the vines in per- fect health, a temperature of not less than 70° at night, with 10° or 15° higher-during the day is always necessary. Any rapid variation downward is certain to result in mil- dew. The floor of the grapery should be kept dashed with water at all times, unless in damp weather, from the THE COLD GRAPERY. 149 time the buds start in May, until the fruit begins to ripen in September, except during the period the vines are in flower, when it should be dispensed with until the fruit is set. If the weather is dry, copious watering is necessary for the border outside. The summer pruning of the grapery consists simply in pinching off the laterals, or side shoots which start from where the leaf joins the stem, to one leaf. Hvery winter three inches of the best well-rotted stable manure is spread over the border, and over that six inches of leaves or lit- ter ; this is raked off in spring, and the manure forked in, the object being to feed the roots from the top of the border. ‘This same treatment we give our hardy grapes with excellent results. I am a good deal of a utilitarian, and am very apt to make even my luxuries ‘‘ pay” when it is practicable to do so ;-and though we would hardly think of selling our grapes that have been grown for private use, yet I do not -scruple to make the glass that shelters them do double duty by using it in winter to shelter our half-hardy roses from November to May. ‘Those that do not make rose- growing a business, as I do, can nevertheless profit by my example, and use the cold grapery for many purposes _ during the winter months when it is not needed for the _ grape-vines. Besides roses, all plants of a half-hardy character may be kept there, such as Pomegranates, Crape Myrtles, Pampas Grass, Tritomas, Carnations, etc., care being taken that the pots or tubs in which they are planted are plunged in leaves, tan, or some such sub- stance, so the roots do not freeze. ‘The cold grapery makes an excellent poultry-house in winter, only if put to that use, care must be taken that the buried vines are secure against the scratching of the hens. 150 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. CHAPTER XLVII. THE HOT-HOUSE OR FORCING GRAPERY. When grapes are forced by artificial heat, probably the best plan is that of the ‘‘lean-to” structure shown by the illustrations, figs. 61, 62, and 63. Fig. 61 gives the plan, which, as in some former engravings, it is not prac- ticable to show on the page at full length; it is accord- ingly ‘‘fractured” portions, as shown by the irregular lines, being taken out of each compartment ; the figures give the proper proportion. Fig. 62 is a part of the front elevation, and fig. 63, a section at the division between the two houses. ‘The house is 100 feet long by 16 feet wide, divided into two compartments for early and late forcing, each 50x16 feet, and both heated by one boiler with valvesin the furnace pit to shut off and taps to draw the water from the pipes notin use; a matter to be looked to when vineries are not in use, for ifthe water is not drawn out of the pipes it may freeze and burst them. When grapes are to be forced, it is essential that a sufficient covering of manure or leaves be placed on the border to prevent frost from reaching the roots, as to apply heat to the vines inside while the roots are frozen, would seriously in- jure them. For very early forcing, when the vines are started as early as January, it is usual not only to put covering enough to secure from frost, but also to slightly ferment, so as to throw some warmth into the border. No matter at what season the grapery is started for forcing, the temperature should not run over 50° or 55° at night, with a day temperature of 10° or15° higher, increasing 10° when the buds haye opened, which will be in four or five weeks from the time of starting. In five or six weeks the fruit will be set and the temperature is to be raised 10° more, In forcing, moisture is of equal im- 15 dais WO9 "O78 WOOY TOOL. Fig. 61.—PLAN OF FORCING GRAPERY. VO,91 % Adad ONIOYUO4 THE HOT-HOUSE OR FORCING GRAPERY. 152 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. portance with heat, for if this is not attended-to, you may expect red-spiders and thrips, and then all your labor may be in vain ; to keep up this moisture, tanks are usu- So ie CEEVEESVEESELPERETS E jt ES | tj fet DS ees ie J] {Lt ye | 1 | Beau | | | | (CII imi Fig. 62.—ELEVATION OF FRONT OF FORCING GRAPERY (IN PART). Fig. 63.—SECTION OF FORCING GRAPERY. ally placed on the hot-water pipes for graperies, and these are kept filled with water, keeping up a continued evap- oration, except at the time the vines are in flower; it THE STRAWBERRY. Me should be then discontinued until the fruitis set. When there is no such arrangement for evaporation, dash water over the floors and use the syringe. To secure fine berries and bunches, one-third of the berries should be thinned out when of the size of peas, using scissors made for this purpose. | CHAPTER XLVIII. THE STRAWBERRY. Of all small fruits, none perhaps stand so high in general favor as the strawberry. Its culture is simple, and as it grows freely in almost any soil or location, no garden of any pretensions should be without it. If a choice of soil can be had, nothing is so suitable asa _ deep, rich, but rather sandy loam, though it will yield returns sufficient to warrant its cultivation on any soil, from almost pure sand to clay, providing that it is drained naturally or artificially. In all soils, deep spading or plowing is essential to the production of fine crops ; and _ this should not be less than a foot, and if 18 inches, all _ the better. A coat of thoroughly rotted stable manure _ at least three inches in thickness, should be dug in and _ well mixed with the soil to a depth of six or nine inches. In the absence of stable manure, any of the concentrated | fertilizers mentioned in chapter VI, “‘ How to Use Con- _ centrated Fertilizers,” used in the manner and quantities | there described, will do as a substitute. Where muck from the swamps, or leaf-mold from the woods can be _ obtained, twenty bushels of either of these mixed with _ one bushel of ashes, will make an excellent fertilizer for _ strawberries, and may be spread on as thickly as stable _ Manure, and on sandy soils is probably better. 154 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. Strawberries may be planted either in the fall or spring. If the plants are to be set in the fall, 16 should not be done if possible in this latitude before the middle of Sep- tember. This, of course, refers to the plants from run- ners taken up from the bed in the usual manner, and there is nothing gained in time over planting the next spring, as the plant must grow for one season before it can bear a full crop of fruit. In private gardens it is Ly Yoav as. A ———- WoO ASS .. \\ ~ Fig. 64.—STRIKING STRAWBERRIES IN POTS. much better to have the plants layered in pots, as they may then be set at almost any time. These pots may be from two to three inches in diameter; when a lot of strawberry plants are wanted for a new bed, all that is necessary to do is to fill these small pots with soil, and ** plunge ” or plant the pot just to the surface level, plac- ing the unrooted ‘‘runner” of the strawberry plant on the top of the soil in the flower-pot, and laying a small stone or clod on it to keep it in place. This method of striking in pots is shown in fig, 64. The runners so THE STRAWBERRY. 155 treated will form plants in two or three weeks, and may be planted out with safety any time from August to Oc- tober. If strawberry plants are treated in this way, and planted in August, and care taken that all runners that come from them be cut off as soon as formed, so that the whole force of the root is thrown into the main crown, a full crop of berries will be gathered the season follow- ing, or in nine or ten months from time of planting. We have practiced this system of layering strawberry plants in pots for what we need for our own use, for the past twenty years, and the results have been so successful that — we haye many converts to the system among our neigh- bors. Plants grown in this manner cannot often be ob- tained from the nurseries, as the necessary labor and ex- pense of the pots makes the price five times more than that of ordinary plants rooted in the open bed. When strawberry plants are set out in the fall, unless under favorable circumstances, many will fail to grow, for the reason that each young plant or runner is sustained in part by the old plant, and when detached, feels the shock more than a rooted cutting or seedling plant does, that has been growing for weeks on its own account, for that reason we have always advised all that were intending to plant fresh strawberry beds, to prepare their plants a few weeks ahead by layering them in pots. ‘Two tofour hun- dred plants are all that an ordinary family will need, and two or three hours’ work would be all the time required to layer the plants in the pots. One hundred plants so prepared, will give more fruit the first season than 1,000 plants planted in the usual way, and the plant forms a stool quicker, and much less time is expended in keep- ing them clean. The use of layered plants is recom- mended specially for fall planting, and the sooner it is done in fall the better; plant in August if possible. In spring the use of potted plants would have no spe- cial advantage, as if planted in April or May, they would 156 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. have all the summer to grow, but of course no fruit can be expected the season of planting. For this reason, it will be seen that to secure a crop quickly, the time to plant is in August or September, and from plants that have been layered in pots. ‘There is no arbitrary rule for the distance apart at which strawberry plants should be set, but if the ground has been prepared as advised, the finest fruit will be had by giving them plenty of room, For our own use we usually set 400 plants annu- ally in August, at two feet apart between the rows, and eighteen inches between the plants, and gather about 200 quarts of splendid fruit. If the ground is limited they may be planted at half the above distance, particularly if set late in fall. There is one very important point in strawberry culture that should never be neglected; that is, that the beds be entirely covered with hay, straw, or leaves, to the depth of three or four inches. This coy- ering should not be put on, however, before the approach of severe weather, in this district about the middle of De- cember. ‘This covering should not be taken off in spring ; it is only necessary to go over the beds as soon as growth begins in spring, and pull the covering back from the plants only sufficient to expose the crown, allowing all to remain on the bed. ‘This covering serves several purpo- ses. It keeps the roots warm until the plants start to grow, it keeps the fruit clean when ripe, it prevents the growth of weeds, and finally acts as a mulch to keep the soil from drying in hot weather. Although strawberry beds will remain in bearing for a number of years, the fruit is always largest’and finest the first season of bear- ing, gradually getting smaller as the plants get older. hence it is desirable to provide for a succession, if not every year, at least every second year. For garden cul- ture in this, as in all other fruits, it is unwise to use any but fully tested varieties, three or four of which are sufficient. } THE STRAWBERRY. 157 VARIETIES OF THE STRAWBERRY. Triomphe de Gand is one of the favorite varieties ; it is of large size, fine flavor, and a fair bearer. It requires a heavy soil. Wilson’s Seedling is a variety better known than any other sort ; it bears large crops, but is very sour. It is much used for preserving. | | Champion.—A berry of an immense size, and beautiful dark crimson appearance, an abundant bearer, but not so rich in flavor as some others. Charles Downing.—This variety is likely to take the place of the Wilson, as it has all the productiveness of that ; succeeds on all soils, and a much better berry. Kentucky.—Is the latest variety, and by planting it with earlier sorts, will extend the season several days. Black Defiance.—This is a first-class fruit in every re- spect, large, productive, and of high flavor; while its dark color unfits it for market, itis one of the best for the private garden. Seth Boyden.—One of the largest berries, very produc- tive, sweet, but not very high flavored; its long neck allows it to be hulled very readily. FORCING STRAWBERRIES. Those who have a greenhouse often wish to force straw- berries into fruit several weeks in advance of the time that they will be ripe in the open air. It may be done in aframe or pit. The young runners must be first layered in pots, as already described, as early as runners are formed, and as soon asthe small pots are filled with roots, they must be shifted into larger ones, say six inches in diameter, the runners being pinched off as they appear, so as to throw the whole strength of the plant into the _ fruiting crown. ‘The soil in which to pot strawberries for 158 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. forcing is the one we recommend for nearly all plants; three parts rotted sods, and one part rotted manure. The potted strawberries should be placed on boards, flagging, or a layer of coal ashes, to prevent the earth- worms from getting in at the bottom of the pots. At first, after being shifted, they should be set closely to- gether, but as they grow they must be spread apart, as it is necessary that the air pass around the pots to ripen the roots. Of course the necessary attention to water is as important with these as with other plants in pots. They may thus stand in the open air until November, when the pots may be plunged in dry leaves to prevent their be- ing broken by frost ; and the tops also covered an inch or two with the same material; as cold weather advances, they may be taken in at intervals of two weeks or so and placed on the shelves of a greenhouse, near the glass, where the temperature will average at night 50 degrees, and if due attention to watering has been given, a crop will be the result, such as will well repay the labor, not only as fruit, but the plants so loaded will them- selves be beautiful greenhouse ornaments. Good vari- eties for forcing are Triomphe de Gand and Champion. RASPBERRY. To have the Raspberry in perfection, the same prepara- tion of soil is necessary as forthe Strawberry. ‘The canes or shoots of the Raspberry are biennial ; that is, the cane or shoot that is formed one season, bears fruit the next season, and dies off after fruiting, giving place to the young cane that is to fruit the following season, and soon. ‘The distances apart to plant the Raspberry for garden culture, may be, if in rows, five feet apart, with the plants two feet apart in the row, or if in separate stools or hills, they may be set four feet each way. If planted at distances of four feet apart, three plants may be put in each ‘ hill,” which will quicker secure a crop. RASPBERRY. 159 They may be set either in fall or in spring ; if in fall, a covering of four or five inches of litter should be spread over the roots to prevent them from getting too much frozen. And eyen when the plants are established and erowing, it is necessary in many cold sections, to bend ‘down the canes and cover them with pine branches or some covering that will shield them from severe freezing. On the large scale the canes are bent down and covered with a few inches of earth, an operation that may be rapidly performed by two persons. One bends down the 13 4 ——— SS — ee canes, (using a pitchfork or other implement), as shown in the accompanying diagram, (fig. 65), while the other throws sufficient earth near the tips to hold the canes in place; after a row is thus bent over, the two go back and cover with earth more completely. All the pruning that is necessary for the Raspberry is to thin out the shoots in each hill to four or six; this is best done in the summer after the fruit is gathered, and at the same time the old canes that have borne the fruit should be cut out, so that the young shoots, coming forward to do duty next season, may have room to grow freely, and develop and ripen the wood. When the leaves drop in fall, the canes may be shortened down a foot or so, which will complete the pruning process. To get the full benefit of all the fruit, it is very necessary to stake the Raspberry, this may be done either by tying the canes of each plant separately to a stout stake, driven two feet 160 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE, or so in the ground, or if grown in rows they may be tied to wires running along the rows ; the wires should be stretched between two stout posts, one at each end of the row, and three feet more or less above the ground, according to variety ; to prevent the wire from sagging, stakes should be driven into the ground directly under it, at intervals of six or ten feet; the wire is attached to these by means of staples placed over it and driven into the ends of the stakes. The di- : agram, fig. 66, “SX shows the meth- —\ od of training a tothe wire; the — longer canes at the right and left are the Yee \ yy Woz | es N canes which are \ ‘ to fruit the cur- et rent year ; these ee \ sees = = B aes — - are tied out as @Sses== — = ee <> there shown, @====SE- Se while the new es = ee ‘ ig. -—TRAINING RASPBERRIES TO A WIRE, shoots, which & are to furnish canes for the next year’s fruiting, grow up in the center, and as soon as tall enough are tied to the wire; after the outer canes have fruited, they are cut away to give the others more room. The varieties are very numerous, those named below are such as will be most satisfactory for private use. From 100 to 200 hills or plants, of all varieties, will usu- ally be sufficient for most families. Fastolf.—A large crimson fruit of delicious flavor. Brinckle’s Orange.—An orange colored berry of large size, very productive, and of excellent flavor. 7 Clarke.—Not quite so large as the Fastolff, but of BLACKBERRY. 161 strong, robust habit, enduring well the extremes of heat and cold. Philadelphia.—One of the hardiest and most produc- tive, growing in soils and situations where the others would fail. Jt is of rather poor quality, but is useful for the above reasons. Catawissa.—A fall-bearing variety of medium ‘size, color purplish crimson, medium flavor. BLACK CAPS. Black-caps or Black Raspberries have become very popular of late years, many persons being fond of their peculiar flavor. ‘They belong to a distinct species from the ordinary Raspberries; the plants make no suckers, but propagate themselves by taking root at the ends of the long branches, which in the fall, if allowed to grow at will, bend over and reach the earth. They throw up shoots from the base of the plant which take the place of those which have already borne a crop. In gardens where there is no desire to propagate the plants, the growing shoots should be pinched off when they get three or four feet high, and any side-shoots they may throw off are stopped by pinching when they are about 18 inches long. ‘The bearing wood is thinned cat after the fruit is off. Mammoth Cluster is considered the most productive of all the numerous varieties. Thornless.—This is preferable to the others in being nearly free from spines, and though the fruit is not quite so large, it is much more easily gathered, BLACKBERRY. The cultivation of the Blackberry is nearly similar to that of the Raspberry, except that it should be planted about one-third farther apart, and it being hardier, there is no need for covering it in winter. As it has a more 162 - GARDENING FOR PLEASURE, vigorous growth, it is sometimes set in any out of the way corner, and in almost any soil; but it will amply repay generous cultivation with finer fruit. The man- ner of growth is the same as the Raspberry, and when the fruit is picked, the old canes are to be cut out to give the new ones a chance. The new shoots are very vigorous growers, and when they reach the hight of five, or at most, six feet, they should be stopped by pinching ; this will cause an abundance of side shoots to start which are to be pinched when about 18 inches long. This treat- ment increases the productiveness of the plants and keeps the fruit within reach. The bushes should be kept tied to stout stakes or wires, as advised for the Raspberry. The following are a few of the popular kinds : Kittatinny.—An immensely large berry of excellent flavor, of deep, shiny black color, one of the very best for family use. 3 . Wilson’s Early.—One of the earliest varieties, ripen- ing a week or more before the Kittatimny, quite as large, and of excellent quality. Cut-leaved.—The merit of this variety is its lateness of ripening, coming in just when the others are done fruit- ing. It is of large size, and esteemed by many, while others do not like its very distinct and peculiar flavor. CURRANTS. The Currant is useful both for dessert and for preserv- ing purposes. An immense weight of fruit is obtained for the space it occupies, and the ease of its culture makes it common in eyery garden. The red and white varieties of Currants may be planted three or four feet apart each way, the black at four or five feet apart. Pruning is done in fall by cutting off about one-third of the young growth of the previous summer, and thinning out old shoots when the plant gets too thick, All are trained in GOOSEBERRY. 163 low bush form, the whites and reds usually from three to four feet high and wide, and the black four to six feet. An insect known as the currant-worm is often very de- structive. On its first appearance, if confined to a few leaves, these should be cut off, shoot and all, and de- stroyed. If they threaten to be troublesome, powdered white Hellebore, either dusted on, or mixed four ounces to a pailful of water and applied with a syringe, will de- stroy them at once. Black Naples.—This is the favorite black variety, and is used almost exclusively for jams and jellies. The black varieties are much less grown here than in Europe, but the taste for them is increasing. Red Dutch.—Color of berries deep red, of average size, flavor excellent. White Grape.—Berries large, of a yellowish-white color. -ihe flavor of this variety is less acid than any other ; excellent for dessert. Versailles.—The fruit much larger than the Red Dutch, and the best flavored of all the large-berried kinds. Cherry.—Berries larger than that of any other sort, but too acid for most tastes ; only suitable for jelly. GOOSEBERRY. The Gooseberry is a fruit better suited for the climate of Britain than for ours, and it is never seen here in the perfection it attains there. It ripens just when our hot- test weather occurs, forcing it unnaturally to maturity, and hence the absence of the size and flavor it attains _ when ripened at a lower temperature. ‘The native varie- ties, though far inferior in quality, are usually more free from mildew, and are therefore most desirable for culti- vation here, as the fruit with us is more used in the green than in the ripe state. Gooseberries are planted from 164 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. three to four feet apart, and are treated in all other re- spects like Currant bushes. Downing.—A native variety of medium size, greenish- white when ripe, excellent quality. Houghton’s Seedling.—Also a native variety, size me- dium, color red, fiavor average. ~* Of the foreign varieties among feds may be named as leading sorts, Warrington, Champion, Waterloo; of Greens, Green Globe, Melville, Green Gage; of Yellows, Sulphur, Champagne, Golden Drop; of, Whites, Crystal, Whitesmith, Dutch. FIGS. The Fig on account of it not being hardy in.the north- ern states, is but Httle cultivated unless in tubs, which are placed in cellars or sheds to protect them during the winter months, or occasionally on the back wall of lean- to graperies ; but in all parts of the country where the thermometer does not get lower than twenty degrees above zero, they can be grown freely in the open air without protection. It is hardly ever necessary to prune the Fig, except to regulate its shape by cutting back any extra strong shoots. In sections of the country such as Maryland, or West Virginia, or Delaware, where it may require slight protection when grown in the open air, it should be planted against a wall or fence, and trained against it; on the approach of cold weather it should be laid down and covered as recommended for hardy grapes. When grown in tubs to be kept in cellars, sheds, or green- house pits, they should be placed under cover in this latitude early in November, kept as dry as possible with- out shrivelling, and set ont in the open air again in May. The soil and general treatment for plants grown in the open air in pots or tubs will be suitable for them. QUINCE—CHERRY. 165 There are numerous sorts in cultivation from which we select the following : White Genoa.—Large roundish, yellow skin ; flesh red- ish-pink, excellent flavor. Brown Turkey.—Pear shaped, average size, brown skin ; flesh red, rich flavor. Early Violet.—Skin brownish-red ; flesh reddish-crim- son, delicious flavor; fruit rather small; one of the hardiest. Brown Ischia.—Size large, skin yellowish-brown ; flesh violet, sweet and luscious, very prolific. | QUINCE. A few Quince trees should be planted in every garden where there is any pretension to a collection of fruits. It is a tree requiring but little attention, and for that reason is often neglected, and very unsightly specimens are seen. The tree is very ornamental in flower and fruit, and by a little attention to pruning, a handsome head may be formed, though equally luxuriant crops are seen on trees that have been untouched for years. They may be planted eight or ten feet apart. In varieties the kind in most general use is the Apple-shaped or Orange.—A large round variety, bright golden-yellow. 7 Pear-shaped is larger, color greenish-yellow, and its shape being more pear-like, readily distinguishes it from the other and better variety. ftea’s Seedling.—A variety not very abundant as yet, is the largest and finest of all. CHERRY. "Fhe Cherry-tree begins to bear usually in two or three years after planting trees of the size sold at the nurseries, 166 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. and continues to annually enlarge in growth and produc- tiveness until it often attains a larger size than most of our fruit-trees. The Cherry grows freely in almost any soil that is free from moisture, preferring, however, like most other fruits, a deep loamy soil. The tree may be trained as desired, either in pyramidal form or with a round top, by pruning and directing the shoots. The distance apart may be ten or twelve feet. Varieties: Black Tartarian.—Deep purplish-black, very large ; fine flesh, unsurpassed in quality ; last of June. ftockport.—Very large, amber-yellow, dotted red ; flesh firm, sweet and excellent ; ripens in June. Coe’s Transparent.—Color pale-amber-yellow ; spotted with pink ; flesh tender, sweet, and of fine flavor ; ripens middle of June. May Duke.—Color dark-red, size medium, Saale ex- cellent ; ripens early in June. Moras. —A sub-acid variety of medium. size, color bright-red, changing to darker color when fully ripe; hangs long on the tree, mainly used for pies and pre- serving. 7 PLUM. The cultivation of the Plum is rendered nearly useless in most places by the attacks of the Curculio, or Plum Weevil. Every conceivable application to the trees has been tried without any satisfactory result. ‘The only thing which will effectually save a crop in the districts infested by this insect, is to jar the tree in the morning or in cool days, first spreading sheets under the trees to catch the weevils, after which they may be burned. If this is begun as soon as the plums are formed, and per- sisted in every few days until they are ripe, a large share of the crop may be saved.. This may be thought to be pay- ing rather dear for a crop of plums, but it is really the PLUM. 167 only way it can be secured. Many years ago the crop of a plum orchard under our charge numbering over a hun- dred large trees, was saved by this process, while all other plums in the district where the jarring of the trees was not resorted to, were completely destroyed. This plan was recommended nearly half a century ago, and no other practicable method has since been presented. It has been recommended by some to plant the trees on the bank of a pond or running stream, and train them to overhang the water, also to pave or cement around the roots so that the insect cannot burrow, but these plans would be often impossible, and are useless. ‘Trees upon stiff, clayey soils are more exempt from the ravages of the Curculio than those upon light ones, probably for the reason that the insect in the grub or larve state cannot penetrate them so readily, as they must enter the ground to become perfect insects. The average distance at which the Plum may be planted is from ten to twelve feet. The following are distinct and fine sorts. Orleans.—Color purple, with a rich blue bloom, size medium ; flesh deep yellow, flavor of first quality ; cling- stone ; ripens in August. Washington.—Color yellow, marbled with red next the sun ; large size; flesh firm, sweet, and rich ; freestone ; ripens first of September. Green Gage.—A well known variety, rather small in - size, but of exquisite flavor, color greenish-yellow, spotted with red on the sunny side ; freestone; ripens early in August. Columbia.—Of the largest size, color brownish-purple ; flesh yellow, sweet, and finely flavored ; freestone ; ripens the last of August. Golden Drop.—A very old and well known sort, color golden-yellow with red spots next the sun ; large, oval ; 168 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. rich and sweet yellowish flesh ; clingstone ; ripens middle of September. PEACH. The Peach prefers the light, dry, and warm soils, known as sandy loams. ‘The tree is shortlived in most sections, and attains its best fruiting condition usually when from five to nine years old. ‘The tree is greatly benefitted by pruning; the growth of the previous sea- son should be shortened about one-third ; this, if annually - followed from the time the trees are set, will give them compact heads instead of open, straggling ones, the branches of which will break down with the first full crop of fruit. In the peach-growing districts the culti- vators do not expect more than three crops in five years, and if they get two full crops in that time they are con- tent, and amateurs should expect no more. When a crop sets at all there is usually more fruit than the tree can carry and ripen; no fruit needs severe thinning more than the peach. In bearing seasons half or two-thirds of those which set may be removed with benefit to the rest. When a tree appears sickly with yellow foliage, dig 1t up at once. ‘The distance apart may be from eight to ten feet. Among the favorite varieties for garden culture may be named ) Karly Beatrice.—One of Mr. Rivers’ seedlings, and so far as tried in this country promises to be a valuable early sort; its size is small, but quality good ; freestone. . Hale's Early.—A very early peach, of fair size and great beauty, but has the fault that it in some localities rots just as it begins to ripen, a difficulty probably due to overbearing rather than to locality; freestone, excellent. Columbia.—Large, round, color yellow and red, streaked with dark-crimson ; flesh yellow, rich, and juicy, flavor excellent ; freestone ; ripens in September. NECTARINES. 169 Crawford’s Harly.—Large, roundish, color yellow, tinged with red ; flesh yellow, rich, and sweet; ripens last of August ; freestone. Crawford’s Late.—Similaz in appearance, but ripening three weeks later. Cooledge’s Favorite.--Size medium, roundish oval, color clear white with crimson cheek ; flesh rich, juicy, and of first quality ; ripens in August; freestone. Honest John, or Karly York.—Uarge, roundish, white with red cheek ; flesh white, very juicy, excellent flavor ; middle of ee freestone. Morris White.—A well known variety, size een color greenish-white, flavor average. The variety mostly used for preserving ; middle of September ; freestone. Malacatune.—Fruit large, yellow, with dark red cheek ; flesh orange-yellow, flavor excellent ; middle of Septem- ber ; freestone. NECTARINES. Nectarines are only smooth skinned peaches, requiring in all respects similar treatment to the peach. They are but little grown in this country, as they are equally lia- ble to injury by the attacks of the Plum Curculio, with the Plum itself. The same treatment recommended for its destruction in Plums, must be applied to the Nectarine. There is a peculiarity in the flavor of some varieties of Nectarines differing from that of any of the peaches, and by some they are greatly preferred to any peach in flavor. The successful varieties are not numerous. Early Newington.—Uarge, roundish oval, greenish- yellow mottled red ; flesh yellowish-white ; September ; cling. | Hunt’s Tawny.—Large, round, amber-yellow with red cheek ; flesh orange, melting, flavor excellent ; ripens in Au =e freestone. 8 170 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. Boston.—Large, oval, yellow with mottled crimson cheek ; flesh yellow, excellent quality ; September ; free- stone. APRICOT. The Apricot is closely related to the peach, but belongs to another species; it is less Juicy, and has a flavor quite distinct from, and by some preferred to, that of the peach. The blighting Curculio attacks the Apricot also, and its culture can only be successful by combating the difficulties that attend that of the plum, unless in special locations that seem few and far between. The varieties are Moorpark.—Size large as an average peach, yellow with red cheek ; flesh orange, sweet, and of exquisite flavor ; ripens in July. Orange.—Pale yellow with red cheek, size medium ; ripens end of July. Turkey.—Large, deep yellow, shaded orange; flesh pale-yellow, firm, rich, and sweet; ripens in August. APPLE. The apple can only be grown in gardens as a dwarf, either kept in a bush form or trained as a pyramid or other shape. ‘The dwarf trees are made so by grafting on dwarfing stocks, while the varieties are the same as those found in the large trees of the orchard. ‘Two sorts of dwarfing stocks are used by nurserymen, the Doucin and Paradise. Trees upon the Doucin will ultimately grow quite large, and as the Paradise is the only stock which makes really dwarf trees, the amateur who wishes to crow dwarf apple-trees should make sure that they are worked on Paradise stocks. Of course trees of this kind are not advised as a source of fruit, but there can scarcely be a handsomer object in the garden than a bush three | feet high, and about the same through, loaded with enor- APPLE—PEARS. 171 mous apples. Dwarf apple-trees may be planted six feet apart each way, while ordinary trees in the orchard are given 15 to 30 feet, or even 40 feet. The following sorts are recommended for garden culture. For descrip- tions see nursery catalogues. Red Astrachan, Alexander, Sweet Bough, Fall Pippin, Gravenstein, Maiden’s Blush, Porter, Rambo, Northern Spy, Mother, T'wenty Ounce, Beauty of Kent, Hawthornden, Spitzenberg, Jonathan, King of Tompkins County, Keswick Codlin, Lady Apple, Red Canada, Swaar. PEARS, Like apples, are grown as dwarfs and standards. The former being planted from eight to ten feet apart, the latter from ten to twelve feet. The dwarfs, budded on the quince stock, are mostly used for garden culture, as from their habit they are more suitable, besides having the invaluable quality of coming quicker into bearing. Time was when the adage went, ‘‘ He that plants pears, plants for his heirs,” but this is now no more applicable to the pear than to the peach, for we now have fine crops of pears budded on the quince in three to five years from the time of planting. The trees may be grown as pyramids, or in the bush form, or in small gardens, pear, peach, and other trees are successfully trained in what is called the oblique cordon, which allows © a number of varieties to be grown in a small space. Only a general outline of the method can be given here, referring for fuller details to Barry’s and other works on fruit culture. A trellis is built about 8 feet high, by nailing a strong top and bottom rail to posts, which should be about 8 feet apart. Slats of inch stuff are put on between the two rails at an angle of 30° ; these are fastened on with screws, as when the trees _ have reached the top, the slats are to be brought down to 45°, and they should be long enough to allow for doing 172 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE, this. Young trees are set in an inclined position in a line with these slats, which are three feet apart. Each tree is cut back to a few buds, and one shoot allowed to grow from the strongest bud, all the others being re- moved. ‘This shoot asit grows is kept tied to the slat, and when it throws out side-shoots, as it soon will, they are pinched back to three or four leaves, whenever the shoot is sufficiently developed to allow the number of the leaves to be seen. By growing in this inclined Fig. 67.—CORDON-TRAINING OF PEAR TREES. position, and by pinching every shoot back to three or four leaves, the tree is dwarfed and made to bear early, and when properly managed, forms a perfect cordon or garland, with fruit along its whole length. Fig. 67 shows a portion of a trellis of this kind. The following varieties are recommended for either kind of training. For descriptions see nursery catalogues. Bartlett, Beurré d’Anjou, Duchesse d’Angouléme, Lawrence, Clapp’s Favorite, Beurré Bosc, Dana’s Hovey, Vicar of Wink- field, Howell, Urbaniste, Seckel, Winter Nelis, Brandy- | wine, Doyenné d’ Eté, Louise Bonne de Jersey, Belle Lucrative, Doyenne Boussock. Steere PABLH GARDEN. COTTAGE GARDENING—A DIGRESSION. 175 CHAPTER XLIX. COTTAGE GARDENING—A DIGRESSION. Before taking up the subject of vegetable culture, I will relate an incident connected with cottage gardening that may interest if it does not benefit some of those into whose hands this book may fall. About a dozen years ago I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of a gen- tleman whose duties compelled him to be at his desk in a close office in the City of New York, from 9 o’clock a.m. to4p.mM. Being naturally of a weak constitution, his sedentary life soon made him the victim of dyspepsia to such a degree that he felt that he must soon resign his situation. He was then a man of forty, entirely ignorant of anything pertaining to country life, and it was with great misgivings and reluctance that, by the advice of his physician, he changed his home from a closely built part of New York to a cottage in the then country-like suburb of Bergen Heights, N. J. His means enabled him to purchase a modest cottage built on a lot 50 by 150 feet ; he did not want the land, he said, but the cot- tage was such as he fancied, and the ground had to go with it. It was about this time that I formed his ac- quaintance, through some business transaction, and he asked my professional advice as to what he could do with his land, which he had already begun to consider some- what of an incumbrance. I replied to him that, if I was not greatly mistaken, in his little plot of ground lay a cure for all his bodily ills, and that besides it could add to the comforts if not the luxuries of his table if he would only work it. ‘‘Iworkit !” heexclaimed. ‘‘ You don’t suppose that these hands could dig or delve,” holding up his thin and bloodless fingers, ‘‘and if they could I know 176 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. nothing about gardening.” I told him I thought neither objection insurmountable if he once begun. The result of our conversation was, that he resolved to try, and try he did to a purpose. Our interview was in March, and before the end of April he had his lot all nicely dug over, the labor being done by his own hands during an hour and a half each morning. His custom was to get up at six o’clock and work at his garden until half past seven. This gave him ample time to dress, get breakfast, and be at his desk in the city by nine. The labor of merely digging was (to him) heavy and rather monotonous, but he stuck to it bravely, and when he again presented himself before me for plants and seeds and information as to what to do with them, it was with some pride that 1 saw my prescription had worked so well, for my friend then looked more like a farmer than a pallid clerk. The regulating of his little garden was a simple matter, and was done according to the following diagram : 7 : Cauliflower, cabbage and lettuce. : Strawberries. Cucumbers, onions, and parsley. Raspberries. Beets, carrots, and parsnips. Tomatoes. | Bush beans. : Asparagus and Rhubarb. During his first season, of course, he made some blun- ders and some failures, but his interest in the work in- creased year by year. His family was supplied with an abundance of all the fresh vegetables and fruits his lim- ited space could admit of being grown—a supply that it would have taken at least $150 to purchase at retail, and stale at that. But the benefit derived from the cultiva- THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 17? tion of this cottage garden was health—strong, rugged health—that for the six years he was my neighbor, never once failed him. I know this case is an extremely exceptional one, for I never knew another man who so resolutely worked him- self into health. There are hundreds of business men, book-keepers, salesmen, clerks, and the like who live in the suburbs of all great cities, many of whom can ill afford to pay for the keeping of the plots surrounding their cottages, but who think they can far less afford to do the work themselves. As a consequence, in nine cases out of ten, the rear, at least, of their suburban plots is a wilderness of weeds. But this is not the least of the evils, the owner has a certain amount of muscular force, and this, be it more or less, being unused, its possessor pays the penalty of his laziness in dyspepsia, and a host of other ills. The proofs are apparent everywhere that garden operations are conducive to health and longevity. The work is not unduly laborious, and when fairly en- tered into has'a never-failing interest. The growing and the watching of the great variety of plants gives a healthy tone to the mind, while the physical labor de- manded by cultivation takes care of the body. CHAPTER IL. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. It is perhaps best that the space allotted to vegetables should be at one side of the garden, and that for fruits at the other, at least in the beginning, though a rotation of crops or change of position may be advantageous in course of time. I will give in brief the culture of each 178 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. vegetable in general use, placing them alphabetically for easy reference, and enumerate the leading varieties.. ASPARAGUS—(Asparagus officinalis.) Asparagus should be planted the first spring that the owner comes into possession of the land, and if the house ' is yet to be built, let the Asparagus-bed be planted at once, as it takes the roots two or three years to acquire sufficient strength to giveacrop. Foran ordinary family a bed of six rows of fifty or sixty feet in length, and three ~ feet apart, will be sufficient, the plants in the rows being set nine inches apart. In planting it is custo- mary to use two-year-old plants, but it often happens that as large a plant is raised from seed in good soils in one year aS in a poorer soil in two years; in such cases the one-year-old plant is preferable. The preparation of the Asparagus bed should be made with more care than for most vegetables, from the fact that it is a permanent crop which ought to yield as well at the end of twenty-five as of five years, if the soil has been well prepared. The asparagus bed, to start with, should be on ground thoroughly drained, either naturally or ar- tificially, and if choice can be had, ona rather light sandy loam. This should be trenched and mixed with suffi- cient manure to form a coating of at least six mches thick over the bed ; this manure should be worked into the soil by trenching to the depth of two feet, as the roots of the plant will reach quite that depth in a few years. In setting, the crowns of the plants shouid be placed at least three inches below the surface. It makes but little difference whether it is planted in spring or fall; if in spring, it should be done as early as the ground is dry enough to work, and if in fall, just as soon as the plants can be had, which is usually in the early part of October. We prefer fall planting on light, well- ASPARAGUS, 179 drained soils, for the reason that if it is done then, young roots are formed, which are ready to grow on the ap- proach of spring, but if the planting is done in March or April, this formation of new roots has to take place then, and causes a corresponding delay in growth. Plants are sold by market gardeners and seedsmen, and as it will save a year or two, to purchase them, it is not worth while to raise them from seed in a private garden. The edible portion is the undeveloped stems, which if cut away as soon as they appear, are followed by others, which start from the crown of the plant. ‘The cutting, Fig. 68.—ASPARAGUS. if continued too long, would finally exhaust the root, hence it is customary to stop cutting as soon as early peas become plenty, and allow the remaining shoots to grow during the remainder of the season, and thus accumulate sufficient strength in the plant to allow it to produce an- other crop of shoots the next season. The engraving, (fig. 68), represents a strong plant with the earth re- 180 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. moved from the roots ; the shoots are shown in different stages of development, and it will be seen how readily careless cutting may injure the buds which are ready to produce a succession of shoots. The surface of the Aspargus bed should have a top- dressing of three or four inches of rough stable manure every fall, (November), : which should be lightly forked into the bed in : ° . Ei AIO ENS SS spring. The best variety at eee ° e : fe ! y} YJ PZ®.. \ is what is known as’ - f WEIN S é | ie ‘*Van Sicklen’s Colos- AY sal.”? - In some localities Rae mm Asparagus is attacked by an insect called the i Asparagus Beetle. The best method of getting || rid of this pest, that we = have found, is to coop bon ‘ up a hen and let the & chickens pick up the | ¢7e% insects and their eggs. ARTICHOKE-GLOBE— (Cynara Scolymus.) |Z Fig. 69.—GLOBE ARTICHOKE. The portion used of this plant is the unde- veloped flower cluster, or the portion which is known as the scales of the involucre. ‘They are boiled and served with drawn butter, but outside of France do not seem to be very generally appreciated. The plants are propagated first by seeds, sown in a hot-bed in March, and planted out at distances of from two to three feet. It is not always hardy enough for our winters in the northern states, though it proves so in all latitudes south of Wash- ARTICHOKE—BEAN. 181 ington. Here it is necessary on the approach of winter to draw the leaves together and earth up around them, and later to cover the tops with litter. ARTICHOKE, JERUSALEM—(Heélianthus tuberosuws.) This is an entirely different plant from the above, but as the two are sometimes confounded, we give engravings of both. The edible portion of this is the tuber, while that of the Globe Arti- choke is the scales sur- rounding the flowers. .— The tubers of the~ | Jerusalem Artichoke somewhat resemblethe Fig. 70.—JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. potato in appearance, and the plant produces immense crops. But few persons in this country like the flavor, and it is rarely grown unless for stock or as a curiosity. Its culture is similar to the potato; it has stems, leaves, and flowers, much like the common sunflower. =< = << —S-———— — ——= SS SSS H]E_TEX SS —SSZEEqS —— ——= ——s> BEAN, (Phaseolus vulgaris var. nanus.)—BUSH, SNAP, OR KIDNEY. An indispensable vegetable, of easy cultivation, grow- ing freely on almost any soil, though on well enriched land, it will be more prolific in quantity and more tender in quality. Itis a plant of tropical origin, and like all such, should not be sown until the weather is settled and warm, and all danger from frostis past. In this latitude, the time of sowing should not be sooner than the 15th of May. Sow at intervals of two or three weeks, all through the season, if wanted for use. Seed may be sown in drills 18 to 24 inches apart, and three inches deep, dropping the seeds at distances of two or three inches in the drills, and covering to the general level. To such as use them all through the season, three or four quarts would be re- 182 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. quired, although a quart at one sowing would give an am- ple quantity for any average family. The varieties most in use at present are Harly Valentine, Early China, Mo- hawk, Fejee, Black Wax, and Refugee. BEAN—POLE OR RUNNING, (Phaseolis vulgaris), AND LIMA, (Phaseolus lunatus). Pole Beans are usually cultivated in hills three or four feet apart. The poles, (which are best made of young cedar trees), should be nine or ten feet high, and firmly fixed at least eighteen inches deep in the ground, and the hills formed around them by digging up the soil and mixing it with a shovelful of well rotted manure, or an ounce or so of guano or bone-dust, if the stable manure is not attainable ; putin either case let the mixing be thorough. The hills should be but two or three inches above the general level, and at least eighteen inches in diameter. ‘The term “hill” isan unfortunate one, as it often leads inexperienced persons to suppose that a tall heap must be made, and it is a common mistake to form miniature hills often a foot or more in hight, upon which. to sow seeds or set plants ; the effect of this is to confine the roots to this small high and dry space. When the word “‘ hill” is used in this work, it is to indicate the place plants are to occupy, and unless some hight is mentioned, it is not above the general level. After the hill has been properly formed around the poie, from five to six beans should be planted around it at a depth of two inches, but the planting should never be done in this latitude before the 20th of May. In all our experience as seedsmen, we know of no seed that is so universally replanted as Lima Beans. I think it safe to say, that at least half of all the people who buy, plant before the sround is dry and warm, and then tell us that the seed must have been bad, because it rotted in the ground. In BEAN—BEET. 183 the hurry of business we have not always time to explain why they rotted, and would here state for the sake of our- selves and cotemporaries, that the reason why the Limas fail to grow in 99 cases out of 100, is, that they are planted too early, and that it is no fault of the seed, which is rarely imperfect. The proper method of planting Lima Beans is to push each one singly into the soil, with the eye downward ; the embryo is so very broad and flat that it is difficult for it to turn itself as smaller seeds do when placed in a wrong position. The Large White Lima is the variety that is most prized. The Giant Wax makes pods nine inches in length, and is a very productive variety. The London Horticultural is used as snaps or shelled. The Scarlet Runner is a highly ornamental variety, producing dazzling scarlet flowers during the whole summer. It is used mainly asasnap bean. Lima Beans are usually only planted once in this latitude, as they take nearly the whole season to mature. From thirty to fifty poles are sufficient for ordinary use; this will re- quire from one to two quarts of seed. BEET, (Beta vulgaris.) Sow in shallow drills twelve to eighteen inches apart in April or May, dropping the seeds so that they will fall an inch or so apart. When the plants have grown to the hight of about two inches, thin out, so that they will stand four inches apart. When the roots are three inches in diameter, they are fit for use. Of course they are used when much larger, but the younger they are, the moré delicate and tender. The varieties cultivated are lim- ited to a few: : , * j fhe": * 184 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. Early Egyptian.—A round, deep red variety, is the earliest. Early Bassano.—A light salmon colored variety. Early Blood Turnip. —Later than either of the above, but best for A yh general crop. WA a Long Smooth Red.— A long variety, best for _ winter use. About six Sf y ») 300 feet of row; enough for ordinary use unless succession crops are wanted, then double the quantity will be required. BORECOLE OR KALE, (Brassica oleracea var.) The rather indefinite . 3 name of ‘‘sprouts” is . given to this vegetable about New York. It is sown here in Sep- tember, in rows one foot apart, treated in every way as spinach, and is ready for use in early spring. Four ounces of seed is sufficient to sow 300 feet of row. ‘'wo varieties of this, but little grown here, are the ‘‘ Scotch Kale,” or ** Curled Greens,” and the ‘*‘ Dwarf German Greens.” The former is of a deep green color, the latter bluish purple, both varieties are much curled, almost : like parsley. The seeds of these are sown in May, and transplanted in July, just as we do late cabbages, at dis- tances of two feet apart each way. These *‘ Greens,” of — ~~ a - — Fig. 71.—EGYPTIAN BEET. BROCCOLI. 185 either variety, when touched by frost, are the most ten- der and delicate of all the cabbage tribe, and it has al- ways been a matter of wonder to me, why their cultiva- tion has not been more general in this country. In Britain they are used very extensively as a winter vege- table. The most popular German variety is Purple Bore- cole. The most popular English variety is Cottager’s Kale, very hardy and profitable, more weight being grown of it in the same space than of any other variety. BROCCOLI, (Brassica oleracea var.) We persist in growing under the two distinct names of Broccoli and Cauliflower, plants which at best are noth- ‘ing more than very nearly related varieties. The main difference between them is, that what we call Broccoli, is planted for fall use, while that which we call Cauli- flower is planted for spring or summer use; though in this respect they are frequently reversed without seeming to mind it. For fall use the seed should be sown in the early part of May, which will give plants large enough to be set out in July. Further south the sowing of the seed should be delayed from four to six weeks later, and the plants be set out correspondingly later. Here we put them out in July, though further south it may be delayed to August or September. In the mild autumn weather of those latitudes this vegetable may be had in perfection from November to March, while with us, if planted out in July it matures during October and No- vember. The plantsare set at two and a half to three feet apart, and as a hundred plants are all that most families would use, it is cheaper to buy them, if in a section where they are sold, than to raise the plants from seed. It requires an abundance of manure. The varieties are : 4 White and Purple Cape.—There is no difference in 186 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. flavor, though the white is the most pleasant looking vegetable when cooked. | . BRUSSELS SPROUTS, (Brassica oleracea var.) This vegetable, as the engraving shows, 1s a variety of the cabbage which forms scarcely any terminal bud or head, but the buds along the stem, which in the ordi- Fig. 72.—BRUSSELS SPROUTS. _ nary cabbage remain small, are in this developed into small heads, which are the edible portion. This is much more used in Europe than with us; though it is not suffi- ciently hardy to endure our northern winters, it will stand in our latitude until Christmas. Its cultivation is exactly similar in all respects to that of Broccoli, ex- CAULIFLOWER. 187 cept that it may be planted closer, say from one and a half to two feet apart. CAULIFLOWER, (Brassica oleracea var.) There is quite an ambition among amateur gardeners to raise early cauliflower, but as the conditions necessary to success with this are not quite so easy to command as with most other vegetables, probably not one in three 7. ly A ‘ 2 (SAW ZATSS we AA UZ.NYS c yp i) ——< Fig. 73.—CAULIFLOWER. who try it succeed. In England, and most places on the continent of Europe, it is the most valued of all vegeta- bles, and is grown there nearly as easily as early cabbages. But it must be remembered that the temperature there is on the average ten degrees lower at the time it matures, . (June), than with us; besides their atmosphere is much more humid, two conditions essential to its proper devel- opment. Iwill briefly state how early cauliflowers can be most successfully grown here. First, the soil must be well broken, and pulverized by spading to at least a foot in depth, mixing through it a layer of three or four 188 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. inches of strong, well rotted, stable manure. The plants may be either those from seed sown last fall and wintered over in cold frames, or else started trom seeds sown in January or February, in a hot-bed or greenhouse, and planted in small pots or boxes, so as to make plants strong enough to be set out as soon as the soil is fit to work, which in this latitude is usually the first week in April. We are often applied to for cauliflower plants as late as May, but the chances of their forming heads when planted in May, are slim indeed. ‘Ihe surest way to secure the heading of cauli- flowers 1s to use what are called hand-glasses, some of which are described in the chapter on Implements. These are usually made about two feet square, which gives room enough for three or four plants of caulifiower, until they are so far forwarded that the glass can be taken off. When the hand-glass is used, the cauliflowers may be planted out in any warm border early in March and cov- ered by them. ‘This covering protects them from frosts at night, and gives the necessary increase of temperature for growth during the cold weeks of March and April; so that by the first week in May, if the cauliflower has been properly hardened off by ventilating, (by tilting up the hand-glasses on one side), they may be taken off altogether, and then used to forward tomatoes, melons, or cucumbers, at which date these may be started, if under the protection of hand-glasses. If the weather is dry, the cauliflowers will be much benefitted by being thoroughly soaked with water twice or thrice a week ; not a mere sprinkling, which is of no use, but a complete drenching, so that the water will reach to the lowest roots. Those planted later are set out and treated in the same manner as cabbages. ‘The two best varieties of cauliflower we have found as yet, are the Dwarf Hrfurt and Harly Parts. CABBAGE. 189 CABBAGE, (Brassica oleracea var.) The cabbage is so easily raised that but little space need be devoted to it here; like all of its - tribe, it requires an ~“\ abundance of manure Q@X\j for its full develop- 7==\\ ment. The early va- rieties should be either raised in cold-frames or in hot-beds, as 7 stated for cauliflow- ee ee er, and planted out at Fig. 74.—CABBAGE—EARLY WINNINGSTADT. distances of from twenty to thirty inches apart each way, ae BX NB Fig. 75.—CABBAGE—SAVOY. as early as the ground is fit to work in April. The best 190 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. early varieties are Karly Summer, Karly Wakefield, Early York, and Early Oxheart. As an intermediate variety the Winningstadt is very popular; it has a sharply con- ical head, and sometimes grows quite large. For late varieties, the seed should be sown in May, and the plants set out in July at two to three feet apart. For winter use the large Drum- head is usually grown, to the | = = exclusion of all oe === others, and 2 k~ while the Curl- 4° ed Savoy is "vastly better flavored, not one Savoy is planted for every thousand Drumhead. The flavor of the Savoy is as ey oO superior to that g. 1.—EARLY FRENCH FORCING. Fig. 2,—EARLY HORN. : of the Drum- Fig. 3.—LONG ORANGE. F head, as that of a Bartlett to that of a choke pear, and it is alee the best late cabbage for family use. Fig. 76.—VARIETIES OF THE CARROT. CARROT, (Daucus Carota.) “ Carrots are sown any time from April to June, in rows one foot apart, covering the seed two inches deep. If the soil is light, they will be better flavored. When the plants are an inch or so high, thin out to three or four inches apart. The varieties most in use are Karly French Forcing, Early Horn and Long Orange. Hight ounces of seed will CELERY. 191 sow 300 feet of row, which, for most families, would be an abundance, both forsummer and winter use. Carrots are much prized as food for horses and cows, and if wanted for this purpose in quantity, they should be sown with a seed-drill, in rows one and a half to two feet apart ; about four pounds of seed per acre is required. CELERY, (Apium graveolens.) If I am fitted to instruct on the cultivation of any veg- etable, it is this, as for many years I have cultivated nearly half a million roots annually, and this experience has resulted in greatly simplifying the operation. The seeds are sown on a well pulverized rich border, as early in the season as the ground can be worked. The bed is kept clear of weeds until July, when the plants are set out for the crop. But as the seedling plants are rather troublesome to raise, the small number wanted for private use, can usually be purchased cheaper than they can be raised on asmall scale, (they rarely cost more than $1 per 100), and if they can be procured fresh from the market gardeners in the neighborhood, it is never worth while to sow the seed. The European plan is to make a trench six or eight inches deep, in which to plant celery, but our violent rain storms in summer soon showed us that this plan was not a good one here, so we set about plant- ing on the level surface of the ground, just as we do with all vegetables. Celery is a ‘‘ gross feeder,” and re- quires an abundance of manure, which, as usual, must be well mixed and incorporated with the soil, before the cel- ery is set out. When the ground is well prepared, we stretch a line to the distance required, and beat it slightly with a spade, so that it leaves a mark to show where to place the plants. Theseare set out at distances of six inches between the plants, and usually four feet between the rows. Great care must be taken in put- | | | _. 192 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. ting out the celery, to see that the plant is set just to the depth of the roots, 1f much deeper, the ‘‘ heart ” might be too much covered up, which would impede the growth. It is also important that the soil be well packed to the root in planting, and if the operation can be done in the evening, and the plants copiously watered, no farther attention will be required. If planted in July, nothing is to be done but keep the crop clear of weeds until September; by that time the handling process is to be begun, which consists in draw- ing the earth to each side of the celery, and pressing it a rh) | Sie Yy / Yi if SS;_ GSS Fig. 77.—‘“‘ HANDLING”? CELERY. tightly to it, so as to give the leaves an upward growth preparatory to blanching for use. Supposing this hand- ling process is done by the middle of September, by the first week in October itis ready for ‘‘ banking up,” which is done by digging the soil from between the rows and laying or banking it up on each side of the row of celery; after being so banked up in October, it will be ready for use in thrée or four weeks if wanted at that time. But if, as is usually the case, it is needed for winter use only, and is to be put away in trenches, or in the cellar, as will be hereafter described, all that it requires is the operation of ‘‘handling.” If the celery is to be left in the open ground where it was grown, then a heavy bank CELERY. 193 must be made on each side of the rows, and as cold weather approaches—say in this latitude by the middle of November—an additional covering of at least a foot of leaves or litter, must be closely packed against the bank, to protect it from frost. Perhaps the best wav to keep celery for family use, is in a cellar ; this can be done by storing it in narrow box- es, of a depth a little less than the hight of the celery. A few inches of sand or soil is placed in the bottom of the box, and the celery is packed upright; the roots being placed on the sand at the bottom, none being put 5: £58 ae gS Fig. 78.—‘‘ BANKING UP’? CELERY. between the heads. Boxes thus packed and placed in a cool cellar in November, will be blanched fit for use dur- ing January, February, and March, though for succes- sion, it will be better to put it in the boxes from the open ground at three different times, say October 25th, November 10th, and November 20th. Or if boxes are not at hand, the celery may be put away on the floor of the cellar in strips of nine or ten inches wide, separated by spaces of the same width, divided by boards of a width equal to the hight of the celery. The reason for dividing the celery in these narrow strips by boards, is to prevent the heating. which would take place if placed together in too thick masses. The dates above given 9 194 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. apply, of course, to the latitude of New York; if further south, do the work later; if further north, earlier. If one has no suitable cellar, the celery can be very readily preserved in the manner followed by market gardeners. 7 After it has been ‘‘ handled” ‘or straightened up, as before described, what is intended for use by Christmas, should be dug up by about October 25th; that to be used in January and February, by November 10th, and that for March use, by November 20th, which latter date is as late as it can be risked here ; although it will stand quite a sharp frost, the weather by the end of November is f AEE d x . Ni SSS ft ———SS — ——" SSsa y | SSS H SS RU V4, = Beat P S>oiwqwR i WW S WRENS Sao & SG See RSs SS Ss Sse Xs SS S S : : SS ~ S So Fig RING C often severe enough to kill it, or so freeze it in the ground that it cannot be dug up. The ground in which it is to be preserved for winter use, must be as dry as possi- ble, and so arranged that no water can remain in the trench. Dig a trench as narrow as possible, (it should not be wider than ten inches), and of a depth equal to the hight of the celery, that is, if the plant of celery be eighteen inches high, the trench should be dug eighteen’ inches deep. The celery is then packed exactly in the manner described for storing in boxes to be placed in the cellar ; that is, stand it as near upright as possible, and pack as closely together as can be done without bruising he Ni hairs Ve » “J . is CELERIAC, OR TURNIP-ROOTED CELERY. 195 it. As the weather becomes cold, the trenches should be gradually covered with leaves or litter, to the thickness of six or eight inches, which will be enough to prevent severe freezing, and enable the roots to be taken out easily when wanted. Fig. 79 represents this method of storing celery in trenches for winter use. From 200 to 500 roots is the number usually required by an _ ordinary 10. family. The va- MS \ WZ Sy WIT rieties we recom- mend, are the San- dringham White and Dwarf Red. The red is as yet but little used in this country, though the flavor is better, and the plant altogether hardier than the white. CELERIAC, OR TUR- -NIP-ROOTED CEL- ERY, (Apium graveo- lens var.) Is grown almost the same as the common celery, and as it requires but little earth- ing-up, the rows may be nearer to- gether. lts tur- Fig. 80.—CELERIAC, OR TURNIP-ROOTED CELERY. nip-like root is used as a salad, mostly by the French and Germans. It is sometimes stewed, but usually simply boiled, sliced, and dressed as a salad for the table. y 2 oo eee 196 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. CORN-SALAD OR FETTICUS, (Fédia olitoria.) This is sold to a considerable extent in spring in the city markets for use as an early salad. For mode of cultivation, etc., see Spinach, as itis grown in exactly the same manner. CHIVES, (Allium Schenoprasum.) An entirely hardy onion - like plant, of easy culture ; it will crow on almost any soil for years, with- out being transplanted. The leaves are the part used, and may be shorn off eyery two weeks during summer. It is propagated by tearing to pieces the old clumps and setting the divisions in rows a foot apart. - Fig. 81.—CORN-SALAD. CRESS OR PEPPER GRASS, (Lepidium sativum.) A spring and summer salad plant ; sow im early spring, and in succession, every week or so if desired, in rows one foot apart. The curled variety is the best, as it can be used for garnishing, as well as for salad. CRESS-WATER, (Vasturtium officinale.) A hardy aquatic plant, which can only be properly cul- tivated where there are running streams. If there is a brook on the place, all that would be wanted for private use may be had by setting a few plants or sowing seeds in spring on the margin of the water. _ CORN, (Zea Mays.) The yarieties known as *‘ Sweet,” are the kinds cultiva- ted to be used in the green state. Corn may either be planted in ‘‘hills,” dropping three or four seeds in a hill four feet apart each way, or in rows five feet apart, drop- cucumbers, are no _ longer - needed over cauliflowers. If — CUCUMBER. 197 ping the seeds at distances of eight or ten inches in the rows. In this latitude it is useless to plant corn before the middle of May. For succession crops it should be planted every two or three weeks until July first; after that date it will not mature here. Corn requires a rich light soil to be early. ‘The leading varieties are Dwarf Early Sugar for first early, Crosby’s Early Sugar for second, and Stowell’s Evergreen for main crops. Three or four quarts is required, if succession crops are sown ; if only one crop, two or three pints will be sufficient. CUCUMBER, (Cucumis sativus.) In most places where the Cucumber is grown out-doors, it is more or less troubled with the ‘‘Striped Bug,” but if only a few dozen hills are cultivated, it is not a very troublesome matter to pick them off, which is about the only sure way to get rid of them. ‘The safest method of raising cucumbers, however, is to cover the seeds when first sown, with the hand-glass described in chapter on Implements ; which by the time they are wanted for such hand-glasses are not ob- tainable, a simple method is — to use a light box ten or twelve inches square, to place over the seeds after sowing, covering it with a pane of BRYANT’S PLANT PROTECTOR. glass ; this will not only forward the germination of the seeds, but will protect the plants against the bugs, until they are strong .enough not to be injured by them. Bryant’s Plant Protector, a simple article, made of light strips of wood, covered by mosquito netting, may be used instead of a hand-glass. This will be found equally 198 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. valuable for protecting all plants liable to the attacks of flying insects, and against the light frosts, so often inju- rious to tender plants. Light, sandy soil is rather best for cucumbers; the ‘‘ hills” should be prepared in the same manner as for Lima Beans, but set three feet apart, dropping five or six seeds in each hill. Cucum- - bers may be sown about the middle of May, and in suc- cession, every three or four weeks, until July. ‘The White Spine and Long Green Prickly are favorite varie- ties. The Gherkin or Burr is by some used for pickling. EGG PLANT, (Solanum Melongena.) This is always an interesting vegetable to cultivate, being worthy of a place as an or- namental plant, as well as being much prized for culinary use. It is a native of the Tropics, and peculiarly tender. We find the seeds will not germinate freely under a temperature of seventy degrees; and even then, often tardily, unless the conditions are just right. Nothing suits them so well as a warm hot-bed, and to get plants of the proper size to be set in the open ground by the end of May, the seeds should be sown early in March, and the plants potted into small pots when an inch or so in hight. But as only a dozen or two plants are needed for a family, whenever the plants can be purchased conveniently, it is never worth the trouble to attempt the raising of them from seeds, unless indeed there is room in a hot-bed, or hot-house used Fig. 83.—EGG PLANT. ENDIVE—HERBS. 199 for other purposes. Do not plant out sooner than the 25th of May, unless they can be protected by hand- glasses. Set at distances of four feet apart, preparing the hills as described for Lima Beans. Each plant should average a dozen fruits, which will weigh from ten to forty ounces each. The best flavored variety in our opinion is the Black Pekin, but the most prolific is the New York Market. A pure pearly white variety is highly ornamental, and also of excellent flavor. The Egg Plant is usually fried in slices, but there are other methods to be found in the proper authorities in such matters. ENDIVE, (Cichorium Endivia.) A plant related to the lettuce. If sownin early spring, either in hot-bed or in the open ground, in April, it will be ready in May. Set out at distances of fifteen inches apart. It is mostly used towards fall, however, and when wanted at that time, should be sown in June or July, and set out in August and September; nothing further is done after planting but hoeing to keep down the weeds, until it attains its full growth, which is from twelve to eighteen inches in diameter. It is then “blanched,” either by gathering up the leaves and tying them by their tops in a conical form, or by placing a slate, or flat stone, on the plant to exclude the light and effect the blanching. Itis used asasalad. The varieties are the Moss Curled and Plain-leaved Batavian. * HERBS—SWEET. Thyme, Sage, Basil, Sweet Marjoram, and Summer Savory are those in general use; the seeds of all ex- cept the last named, should be sown in shallow drills, one foot apart in May, and the plants will be fit for use 200 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. in September and October. Summer Savory does better if the seeds are sown where the plants are to grow. GARLIC, (Allium sativum.) Is used mostly by Kuropeans; it grows freely on any soil; the sets, obtained by breaking up the old bulbs, are planted in early spring in rows one foot apart, and five or yu! Wii, vi f ! Wyss) ZI iy — | — Fig. 84.—GARLIC BULBS. Fig. 85. —HORSERADISH ROOT. six inches between the plants. When the leaves wither, the bulbs are taken up and hung in a dry, cool place. HORSERADISH, (Nasturtiwm Armoracia.) For family use a few roots of this should be planted in some out-of-the-way corner of the vegetable garden; a dozen roots, once planted, will usually give enough for a life-time, as it increases and spreads so that there is never any danger of being without it; the trouble is, if it is once admitted into the garden, it is difficult to be got rid of if so desired, KOHLRABI—LEEK. 201 KOHLRABI, OR TURNIP-ROOTED CABBAGE, (Brassica oleracea var.) This vegetable resembles a turnip, but is regarded as a \ \ ass LOI By, \\\ \ Reta TTT) , 2 emai os : pple j ){ a || Fig. 86.—KOHLRABI. markets of New York in the fall. There are two va- ieties, White and Purple. LEEK, (Allium Porrum.) Sow in April, and plant out in June or July, in rows one foot apart and six inches between the plants. It is used mainly during the winter months ; it is an entirely hardy plant, yet in order that it variety of the cab- bage, with a fleshy edible stem. Seeds should be sown in rows fifteen or eigh- teen inches apart, in May or June, and when an inch high, thinned out to nine or ten inches. It is a favorite vegetable with the Germans, and immense quan- tities are sold in the | | | ; ~ 202 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. may be handy to get at in winter, it is better to put it in. trenches, as advised for preserving celery. LETTUCE, (Lactuca sativa.) Lettuce should be sown in a hot-bed or greenhouse if wanted early ; seeds sown there in’ February will give nice plants to set out in April, to mature in May, or if it is sown in the open ground in April and pianted out in May, it will mature in June, and so on through the summer season if succession crops are desired, as it only takes from five to six weeks to mature. The great excel- lence of lettuce consists in its freshness, and it can rarely be purchased in perfect condition; hence, those who would enjoy it in its best state should raise it themselves. For early use, to be ready in May, the Curled Silesia and Boston Market are the best; while for summer use, the Curled India and Plain Drumhead should be sown, as they do not readily run to seed. The Cos varieties are mainly used in Europe, and are by far the best flavored ; but from their tendency to run to seed in our warmer climate, are but little cultivated, though they might be safely grown in the cool weather, in spring, or in fall. An ounce of seed of each variety will be ample. MARTYNIA, (Martynia proboscidea.) The unripe pods taken when perfectly tender, are used for pickling. ‘They must be gathered every day or two, or some will become hard and useless. Sow in open ground in May, and transplant to two feet each way in - June. MELON, MUSK, (Cucumis Melo.) The cultivation of the Melon is almost identical with that of the cucumber, to which reference may be made. MELON. a 203 The varieties are numerous, those named below are the most popular. Green Citron.—Medium size, deeply netted, almost round in shape, flesh green, de- liciou's flavor. White Japan. —A distinct and white - skinned sort, flesh yellow, richly flavored. Ispahan. — A valuable variety for the southern states, but too late to mature in the north. It crows toupwards of a foot in length; skin, when fully ripe, light yellow; flesh yellowish- white, with arich perfume and fla- 3 vor. Cassaba is a related variety, and in most seasons ripens with us. Ward’s Nectar and Skillman’s Netied, are among the best for the family garden. \ 4 si { ‘ ( | we r . Fig. 88.—MARTYNIA. MELON, WATER, (Citrullus vulgaris.) The cultivation of the Water Melon is in all respects similar to that of the Musk Melon, except that being a larger and stronger growing plant, it requires to be planted at greater distances. The hills should not be 204. GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. less than eight feet apart each way. It delights in light sandy soil, and will not grow satisfactorily on heavy, clayey soils. ‘The leading sorts are: Mountain Sprout.—A large-sized, red-fleshed variety, of excellent flavor. Phinney’s Early.—Flesh of a deep red, very sweet. Fig. 89.—WATER-MELON—PHINNEY’S EARLY. Ice Cream.—-A white-fleshed variety, and one of the earliest ; best to be grown in northern or eastern states. Orange.—So called because the flesh parts readily from the rind when ripe. The flesh is red, and rather coarse ; it keeps longer than any other. fattlesnake, also called Joe Johnson, is a fine variety for the southern states, and is largely grown for shipment to the northern markets. | MUSTARD, (Sinapis alba.) “ For use and cultivation see Cress. MUSHROOM, (Agaricus campestris.) Many who have a taste for horticultural pursuits grow mushrooms as much for the novelty of the thing as for the use, for it is certainly very gratifying for an ama- os MUSHROOM. 205 teur to find that he has succeeded with a crop of this cu- rious vegetable in mid-winter, when everything outside is frost-locked and snow-bound. I have said that the novelty is attractive, for in growing all other plants the cultivator sees something tangible to start with, either seeds, plants, or roots, but with the mushroom it may be said he sees neither, for no seeds can be discovered either with the naked eye or with a magnifier, and it requires some faith to believe the minute thread-like substance we call ‘‘ spawn,” to be either plants or roots. Mushrooms are always raised in the dark, and any cellar, stable, or an out-house of any sort, wherein a temperature of 45° to 65° can be commanded, will grow them. There are various methods followed by mushroom growers, but I will only give one, premising that if the directions given are strictly followed, success is just as certain as In growing a crop of peas or potatoes. Let horse droppings be procured from the stables each day, in quantities not less than a barrow load ; to every bar- row load of droppings, add half the quantity of fresh loam, from 4 pasture or sod land, or soil of any kind that has not been manured, (the objection to old ma- nured soil being that it may contain the spores of spuri- ous fungi.) Let the droppings and soil be mixed to- gether day by day, as the manure can be procured; or if they can be had all at once in sufficient quantity, so much the better. Let the heap, (which should be under - cover), be turned every day, so that it is not allowed to heat violently until you have got together a sufficient quantity to form a bed of the desired size. From the prepared droppings and soil, begin to form the bed. A convenient width is four feet, and the length may be as great as desired. First spread a thin layer of the com- post, pounding it down firmly with a brick or mallet, layer after layer, until it reaches a depth of eight inches. Be careful that the thickness is just about eight iaches, 206 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. as if more, it would heat too violently, and if less, it would not heat enough. Into this bed plunge a ther- mometer ; in two or three days the bed will heat, so that the thermometer will rise to 100° or over. As soon as the temperature declines to 90°, take a sharp stick and make holes an inch or so in diameter allover the bed, at about a foot apart, and six inches deep ; into these holes drop two or three pieces of ‘‘spawn,” and cover up the hole again with the compost of which the bed is made, and beat it slightly again, so that the bed will present the same level surface as before the spawn was putin. Let the bed remain in this condition for ten or twelve days, by which time the spawn will have run all through it. Now spread evenly over the surface of the bed about two inches of fresh loam, press 1t down moderately with the back of a spade, and cover up the bed with hay or straw to the thickness of three or four inches. If this opera- tion is finished in November or December, and the place has an average temperature of 55°, you may look out for a crop in January or February. ‘The bed will continue bearing about three or four weeks, and the crop is usually enormous, often producing a bushel on two square yards of space. After the first crop is gathered, a second, and even a third, can be taken if desired, from the same bed without further trouble than to spread a little fresh soil on the surface, giving it a gentle watering and covering up with hay as before. Great care must be taken that after placing the spawn in the newly made bed, the earth covering is not put on sooner than ten or twelve days ; in my first attempt at mushroom growing, I failed two years in succession, because I put on the soil when the spawn was first put into the bed; by so doing, the steam arising from the manure was prevented from — passing off, and the result was, that the spawn rotted, I believe this very common error is the cause of most of the failures in raising mushrooms, NASTURTIUM—OKRA. 207 NASTURTIUM—INDIAN CRESS, (Tropeolum majus.) A highly ornamental plant, cultivated in flower-gar- deus as well as in the kitchen garden. The shoots and flowers are some- times used in salads, but it is mainly grown for its fruit or seed pods, which are pickled in vine- gar and used as a substitute for capers. The plant is of the easiest culture. Sow in shallow drills in May. The fall variety will reach a hight of ten or fifteen feet if furnished with strings or wires, and makes an excellent screen for shade, or for quickly covering | | up and conceal- — Fig. 90.—OKRa. ing any unsightly place. The dwarf variety is grown like peas, and staked with brush. OKRA OR GUMBO, (Abelmoschus esculentus.) A vegetable of the easiest culture. Sow in drills in May, three feet apart for dwarf, and four feet for tall sorts, in drills two or three inches deep. The long pods when very young and tender, are used in soups, stews, etc., and are very nutritious. — 208 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. ONION, (Allium cepa.) Onions are raised either by ‘‘ sets,” which are small dry onions grown the previous year, or from seeds. When grown from the sets, they should be planted out as early in spring as the ground is dry enough to work; plant them in rows one foot apart, with sets three or four inches apart. When raised from sets, the onions can* be used in the green state in June, or they will be ripened off by July. When raised from seeds, these are sown at about the same distance between the rows, and when the young plants are an inch or so high, they are thinned out to two or three inches apart. ~It is import- ant that onion-seed be sown very early. In this lati- tude it should be sown not later than the middle of April, for if delayed until May, warm weather sets in and delays, or rather prolongs the growth until fall, and often the bulbs will not ripen; we find that unless the onion-tops dry off and the bulbs ripen by August, they will hardly do so later. The best known sorts are White Portugal or Silver Skinned, Yellow Dutch or Strasburg, and Wethersfield Red. , Two kinds are grown exclusively from bulbs; one of these is the Potato Onion, or ‘‘ Multipliers,” which in- crease by the bulb splitting up and dividing itself into six or eight smaller bulbs, which in turn form the sets to plant for the next crop. The other variety is what is called ‘*Top Onion,” which forms little bulbs on the stem in the place of flowers; these are in clusters, and about the size of hazel nuts. These small bulbs are broken apart and planted in spring at the-same distances as the ‘‘sets” referred to above ; all mature in August. PARSLEY, (Carum Petroselinum.) But a very small quantity of this is usually wanted in the family garden. Sow in shallow drills in April or tion in growing it on one’s own PARSNIP—PEA. 209 May. A good plan is to sow in shallow boxes as much as may be needed ; they can be placed wherever there is moderate light, and no frost ; by this means a fresh supply may be kept on hard in hard winter weather, when it is most desirable to have it, either for garnish- ing dishes or for other uses. ‘The best variety to grow is the Moss, or Double Curled. PARSNIP, (Lastinaca sativa.) For mode of cultivation of parsnips, see carrot, as their culture is identical, except that this being hardy, can be left out in winter, while in this latitude carrots cannot. A portion of the crop may be dug and stored in the cellar or in trenches, and the remainder may be left until spring. The Hollow Crowned is best for general use. PEA, (Pisum sativum.) The pea is indispensable in the garden, and there is more satisfac- ground, than there is in raising any ~ other vegetable. If too old when picked, or stale, which is too often the case when purchased from the dealers, peas have but little resem- blance to those taken directly from the vines. For an early crop peas should be one of the first things sown inthe spring. We prefer to sow in double rows, which saves half the labor in staking or bushing up, and gives nearly the same crop to the row as if sown in single rows. Double rows are made at eight or nine inches apart, and Fig. 91.—PARSNIP. 210 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. four feet from other rows. Set a line and draw the drills with a hoe three or four inches deep; the seed should be sown to lay as near as possible an inch or so apart. ‘The Sidney Seed-Sower, mentioned in the chapter on Implements, is a most convenient affair for sowing peas; one can with a few minutes practice distribute the seed with great regularity. In order to havea succession of crops of peas, they should be sown every two or three weeks until July. If succession crops are grown, an average quantity for a family would be twelve quarts; if only first crops of early and late, from four to six quarts will be sufficient. The varieties of peas are almost innumerable, and new sorts—or at least sorts with new names—are sent out every year. They may be classed in two groups, the round and the wrinkled peas. The round varieties are the earliest, but they are as much inferior to the wrinkled or marrow kinds, as field is to sweet corn; these two groups are subdivided according to hight. ‘The earliest pea is Daniel O’ Rourke, under some of its dozen or more names, for most of the ‘‘early” and ‘‘ extra early” peas are only selected strains of this, which, under other names, dates back into the last century. It is of medium hight, productive, and valuable as yielding the earliest crops. The earliest of the wrinkled sorts is the Alpha, of medium hight. The standard late sort is the Champion of Eng- land, an old variety, which has not yet been superseded. The dwarf sorts, which grow only about a foot high and need no brush, are very handy in the family garden, as they may be used to occupy odd spaces. The leading dwarfs are Tom Thumb, early but round, and Little Gem, productive and of the best quality. The catalogues give the merits of numerous other sorts, early, medium, and late, PEPPER—POTATO—PUMPKIN,. PAWS PEPPER, or CAPSICUM, (Capsicum annuum.) The Pepper is sown and cultivated in all respects the same as the Egg-Plant, which may be referred to. The varieties are the Bull-Nose, or Bell, and the Cayenne. POTATO, (Solanum tuberosum.) Potatoes are grown by planting the tubers, either cut or whole, it makes but little difference which ; if large, cut them ; if small, leave them uncut. They are usually planted in drills three feet apart, and four or five inches deep. The ground should be prepared by first spreading in the drills a good coat of stable manure, say two inches deep, upon which are planted the tubers or sets, at dis- tances of eight or ten inches apart. In a warm exposure planting may be begun early in April, and the crop will be fit for use in June. Someof the small-leaved varieties such as the Ash-leaved Kidney, were formerly grown un- der hand glasses, or in frames, to forward them, but now this is hardly worth the trouble, as our supplies from southern latitudes are so early that it is no longer desir- able to force thecrop. The generally favorite variety for early crops is still the Early Rose ; and for general crop, Peach-Blows; but there are scores of other varieties, which have a special or local reputation. PUMPKIN, (Cucurbita Pepo.) Pumpkins are still grown in many gardens with a te- nacity that is astonishing, when it should long ago have been known that they have no business there, as their first cousins, the squashes, are eminently superior for every culinary purpose whatever. The Pumpkin is a val- uable product for the farm, as a food for cattle, but for nothing else. If people will waste valuable land in rais- ing pumpkins, they may plant them the same as directed for squashes. 212 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. RADISH, (Raphanus sativus.) One of the first vegetables that we crave in spring is the Radish, and it is so easy of culture that every family can have it fresh, crisp, and in abundance. ‘The smallest garden patch of a few feet square, will give enough for a family. It is sown either in drills or broadcast, care being taken that the seed is not put in too thickly ; from one to two inches apart either in drill or broadcast, being the proper distance, as usually every seed germinates. ‘The best varieties are the Red and French Turnip, and the Short Top Long, Red, or White. If wanted specially early, the above sorts are best for hot-bed forcing ; for summer and winter use the yellow and gray varieties are preferred. | RHUBARB OR PIE PLANT, (Aheum Rhaponticum.) Rhubarb may be planted in either fall or spring, using either plants raised from the seed, or sets obtained by di- visions of the old roots, taking care to have a bud to each. Set at distances of three or four feet apart each way. The place where each plant is to be set, should be dug eighteen inches deep and the same in width, and the soil mixed with two or three shovelfuls of well-rotted stable manure. Two dozen strong plants will be enough for the wants of an average family. If desired in winter or early spring, a few roots can be taken up and placed in a warm cellar or any such dark and warm place. The roots, if the cellar is dark, may be put in a box with earth around them, or if in a light cellar, they may be put in the bottom of a barrel with earth, and the top covered, ‘The only care needed is to see that the roots do not get too dry, and to water if necessary, when it will grow with but little care The useful portions is the long and thick leaf-stalks, and these when forced are much finer in flavor than when grown exposed to air and SALSIFY. 213 light in the open garden. The plants in the open ground should have the flower-stalks cut away as they appear. Y A\ \2 = —S= ————— 1 SS Fig. 92.—RHUBARB. In gathering do not cut the leaf-stalks, as they will read- ily come away by a side-wise pull, and leave no remnant todecay. ‘Thevarieties are Myatt’s Victoria and Linneus. SALSIFY, OR OYSTER PLANT, (Tragapogon porrifolius.) The culture of this vegetable is the same in all respects as for carrots, which see. Like the parsnip, it is hardy, and can be left out during winter in any district without injury from frost. It is rapidly becoming more popular. ’ 214 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. Itis stewed like parsnips or carrots, 1s used to make soup, | | ie es UNNI | ui) il ow se {| ma nie ns / (= = a | | Y = Bae. Fig. 93.—sALSIFY. Fig. 94. —SCORZONERA. - which has a decided flavor of the oyster; or is first boiled and then fried. There is but one kind. . SCORZONERA—BLACK SALSIFY, (Scorzonera Hispanica.) This is somewhat different in flavor from Salsify, and SEA KALE. 215 is preferred to it by many; it has much broader leaves, but it is cultivated and used in the same manner. SEA KALE, (Crambe maritima.) Sea Kale is a favorite vegetable in European gardens, but here, as yet, almost unknown. Anticipating that at no distant day it may be as generally cultivated as it de- serves to be, I briefly describe the mode of culture. The seeds of Sea Kale should be sown in the greenhouse, or in a slight hot-bed in February or March, and when the plants are an inch or two in hight, they should be potted into two or three-inch pots and placed in a cold frame to harden, until sufficiently strong to be planted in the open ground. It should then be set out in rows three feet apart, with two feet between the plants, cn land enriched as for any ordinary cabbage crop. If the plants and the soil in which they have been planted are both good, and cultivation has been properly attended to, by keeping the plants well hoed during the summer, it will have ** crowns” strong enough to giveacrop the next season. In the northern states it will be necessary to cover the rows with three or four inches of leaves, to protect the plants from frost. Sea Kale is only fit for use when ‘‘ blanched,” and to effect this, on the approach of spring the ‘‘crowns” should be covered with some light material, such as sand or leaf-mold, to the depth of twelve or fifteen inches, so that the young shoot being thus excluded from the light, will become blanched in growing through this covering. Sometimes cans made 216 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. for the purpose, or large flower-pots, or even wooden boxes, are inverted over the plants, the object in each case being to exclude the light. If it is desired to force Sea Kale, or forward it earlier, the materials used to make hot-beds, leaves or stable manure are heaped oyer the pots or cans in a sufficient quantity to generate the proper heat to forward or force on the growth of the plants. ‘The young shoots are cut from the plant before the leaves are developed, and when cooked, haye a flavor something between asparagus and cauliflower, but by most persons much preferred to either. The engraving shows a young shoot when ready for the table. SHALLOTS, (Allium Ascalonicum.) A plant of the onion genus, which is cultivated by set- ting out the divided roots In September in rows a foot apart, allowing six inches between them. It is entirely hardy, and fit for use in early spring. SPINACH, (Spinacia oleracea.) Spinach is a vegetable of easy culture. It may either be sown in spring or fall. If in fall, the proper time is from the 10th to the 25th of September, in rows one foot apart ; sow rather thickly. Cover the plants with. two or three inches of hay or leaves on the approach of severe frost in December. When sown in the fall, the crop of course is ready for use much earlier than when sown in spring, as half the growth is made in the fall months. By the time the seed can be sown in spring, the crop that has been wintered over will be coming into use. ‘To fol- low the crop thus wintered, seeds should be sown in the same manner in spring, as early as the soil can be worked, and another sowing may be made two weeks later. ‘The round-seeded variety is best for winter sowing, and the prickly seeded for spring. About four ounces is enough for ordinary wants for either season’s sowing. 7 SPINACH, SUBSTITUTES FOR. 21% SPINACH, SUBSTITUTES FOR. In the southern states, or even in our northern sum- mers, Spinach runs rapidly to seed, if sown in hot weather, and several plants Ge 7k SS may be used as substitutes. WAN as yf Among these are Swiss 3 Chard, a species of beet, sometimes called Spinach Beet, or Perpetual Spinach. Young plants of the ordi- nary beet are by some pre- ferred to spinach; ordinarily beets need thinning, and the seed is sometimes sown very thickly, in order that there may be an abundance of thinnings to use as spinach, or beet greens; they are used with the young beet attach- ed, which should not be thicker than an ordinary lead- pencil; if larger, the leaves will be too strong. Another substitute is oN YY nGY WG Fig. 96.—SWISS CHARD. NEW ZEALAND SPINACH, (TZetragonia expansa.) This is a remarkable plant, of low branching habit, YZ \\ vig. 97.—NEW ZEALAND SPINACH. and grows with surprising luxuriance during hot 218 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. weather. Single plants often measure from five to eight feet in diameter. ‘I'he leaves are used exactly as ordinary spinach. It should not be sown before warm weather sets in in May, and the plants should be set out in hills three or four feet apart each way. SQUASH, (Cucurbita Pepo and C maxima.) The summer varieties are, among others, the White and Yellow Bush and Summer Crookneck. As with — SS Fig. 98.—SQUASH—WHITE BUSH. all plants of this class, it is useless to sow these before warm weather in May, and the directions given for cu- cumbers and melons, are alike applicable to the squash, except that the distances apart of the hills; these should Fig. 99.—sQuaASH—SUMMER CROOKNECK. be from three to four feet for the bush sorts, and from six to eight for the other varieties which ‘‘ run ” or make a long vine. The fall or winter squashes are planted at the same time, but are allowed to mature or ripen, while SWEET POTATO. 219 the summer varieties are used green. They are usually planted eight or nine feet apart, in hills prepared in the usual way. ‘These squashes are great feeders, and for the best results the soil should be well enriched, besides the special manuring in the hills, as the vines throw out roots at every joint to assist in feeding and maturing the heavy crop they usually bear. ‘The popular varieties are Fig. 100.—sQqUuASH—MARBLEHEAD. Hubbard, Marblehead, Yokohama, and Winter Crook- neck. Most of the winter varieties, if kept in a dry at- mosphere at a temperature from forty to fifty degrees, will keep until May. A garret room in a moderately well heated dwelling house, will often be a very suitable place for storing them. SWEET POTATO, (Ipomea Batatas.) Tt 1s useless to attempt to grow the Sweet Potato on anything but a light and dry soil. On clayey soils the plant not only grows poorly, ‘but the potatoes raised upon such soil are watery, and poorly flavored. The plants are raised by laying the roots on their sides on a hot-bed or bench of a greenhouse, and covering them over with 220 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. sand, about the first week in May; by keeping up an average temperature of 75° or 80°, fine plants will be produced by June Ist, at which time they should he planted in this vicinity. The plants are set in hills three feet apart each way, or on ridges four feet apart, and 12 or 15 inches between the plants, drawing the earth up to them as they grow, until the top of the ridge or hill is four or six inches above the level. The soil under the ridges should be highly manured, and as the vines grow they should be kept clear of weeds ; when late in the season they show a dis- position to root at the joints, they must be moved every week or so; this is easily done by run- ning a rake handle or other stick under the vines and lifting them sufficient- ly to draw out the small roots upon the stem. As is the case with many other vegetables of which the plants or sets are raised in > ) large quantities for sale, it is better and cheaper when Sweet Potato plants are procurable, to purchase them, than to attempt to raise the small number required in a private garden. A hundred plants not costing more than a dollar, are all that most families would require. The Nansemond is the favorite variety. Fig. 101.—SWEET POTATO. TOMATO—TURNIP, 221 TOMATO, (Lycopersicum esculentum.) If any vegetable is grown in a family garden, it is al- most certain to be the Tomato. Hundreds of people who haye only a few feet of ground at their disposal, manage to cultivate a dozen or two of tomato-plants, though they may have nothing else ; so well is it known that I think few of my readers will require to be told much about its culture. The Tomato will grow any- where, and under almost any circumstances, provided always that it has the necessary high temperature ; it is essentially a plant of the Tropics, and need never be sown in a hot-bed here before March, or planted in the open ground before the middle of May. When cultivated in private gardens, the tomato-vine should always be pro- vided with some sort of trellis, or be tacked up against a fence or wall. By this treatment, not only will a heavier crop be obtained, but the flavor will he better ; when the fruit rests on the ground it has often an inferior flavor, particularly when eaten raw, and is also more apt to de- cay. A few dozen plants usually suffice for an ordinary family, and if there are no hot-beds or other glass ar- rangements on hand, the plants had better be purchased, as they are sold cheaply everywhere. ‘The favorite vari- eties are the Trophy, Champion Cluster, and Conqueror. TURNIP, (Brassica campestris.) The Turnip, if wanted for an early crop, is sown in early spring, as directed for beets. The best sorts are the varieties known as White and Purple-top Strap-leaved and Yellow Aberdeen. If for winter or fall use, sowing should be deferred until July or August. The Ruta Baga or Swedes, being sown in July, and the earlier winter sorts, such as Yellow Globe or Flat Dutch, are sown in August. 222 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS. In concluding te section of tais book devoted to veg- etable growing, we will give a few general instructions that may have been omitted in the details already given. In sowing all kinds of seeds, more particularly those of small size, be careful, if the soil is dry, to ‘‘firm” or press down the surface of the bed or row after sowing, with a light roller or back of a spade, more especially if the weather is beginning to get warm. Orops are often lost through the failure of the seeds to germinate, for the simple reason that the soil is left loose about the tiny seeds, and the dry atmosphere penetrates to them, shriy- eling them up until all vitality is destroyed. Again for the same reason, when setting out plants of any kind, be certain that the soil is pressed close to the root. In our large plantings in market gardening, particularly in sum- mer, we make it a rule in dry weather to turn back on the row after planting it with the dibber or trowel, and press the earth firmly to each plant with the foot; we have seen whole acres of celery and cabbage plants lost, solely through neglect of this precaution. Never work the soil while it isso wet as to clog, better wait a week for it to dry than to stir it if wet. In no work in which men are engaged is the adage, ‘‘A stitch in time saves nine,” more applicable than to the work of the farm or garden. ‘The instant that weeds appear, attack them with the hoe or rake; do not wait for them to get a foot high, or a twelfth part of it, but break every inch of the surface crust of the ground just so soon as a germ of weed growth shows itself. And it will be better to do it even before any weeds show, for by using a small sharp steel rake, two or three days after your crop is planted or sown, you will kill the weeds just as their seeds are germinating. Thenewly developed germ of the strongest weed is at that time very tender, In my market garden : GARDEN IMPLEMENTS. Se operations I had one man whose almost exclusive duty it was to work in summer with the steel rake, and in a few days after a crop was planted, the surface was raked over, destroying the thousands of weeds just ready to ap- pear. Had we waited forthe weeds to be seen, so that they were too large to be destroyed by the raking, four men could not have done with the hoe the work accom- plished by this man with the rake. CHAPTER LL GARDEN IMPLEMENTS. The tool-shed is an important and necessary append- agetoawell kept garden. The following list includes such implements as are generally needed in private gardens : THE WHEELBARROW, (Fig. 102).—The wheelbarrow is Thi MAN Fig. 102.—GARDEN WHEELBARROW. an important vehicle in the garden, for the moving of soils, carrying manures, and for conveying the products of the vegetable garden to the house or place of storage, and numerous other purposes. It may be purchased of different sizes and styles, or can be ‘‘ home-made” by those possessing a little mechanical skill. 224 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. THE Spapz, (Fig. 103).—The uses of the spade in a garden are too obvious, and general, to need description. The best in use are Ames’ cast-steel, which are light, strong, and durable, and work clean and bright. THE SHOVEL, (Fig. 104).—The shovel is used for load- ing, and for mixing and spreading composts and short manures. ‘They are made with long or short handles. THe Diecine Fork, (Fig. 105), or Forking Spade, is used instead of a spade to dig in | manures, to loosen the earth about C2» the roots of trees, or for taking up € ~ 2 root crops ; being less liable to cut or injure them than the spade. It is often Fig. 103. Fig. 104. Fig. 105. Fig. 106. Fig. 107. Fig. 108, used instead of the spade, as by its aid the soil can be more readily broken and pulverized. THe MANURE Fork, (Fig. 106).—Is made of cast-steel with from four to six prongs, and is used for mixing, GARDEN IMPLEMENTS. 225 loading, and spreading manures, work which could not be efficiently done without it. THE Common oR Draw Hozt.—There are several patterns of draw hoes, but the one in general use is the common square hoe, as represented in fig. 107. Its uses in the garden are manifold, and it has frequently to do duty for several other implements. Its principle uses are to clean the surface of the ground from weeds, to open trenches for seeds, and to cover them. THe Prone Hog, (Fig. 108).—This is one of the most useful of all garden tools, and is far superior to the blade hoe for stirring and pulverizing the soil. It cannot, it is true, be used where weeds have been allowed to grow to any considerable hight, but then we claim that inall well regulated gardens, weeds should never be allowed to grow so large that they cannot be destroyed by the prong hoe. THE Dutch or PusH Hoek, (Fig. 109), is sometimes preferred to the preceding for cutting the weeds be- | tween the rows of vege- tables, a work which can be done very quickly by its aid ; Fig. 110. Fig. 111. Fig. 112. it is not so generally useful as the draw hoe, but is better for the special purposes of destroying weeds. THE REEL AND Line, (Fig. 110), are necessary in 226 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. every well regulated garden, enabling us to plant in straight and accurate rows. The line should be of strong hemp, and is wound upon the reel when not in use. THE PRUNING Saw, (Fig. 111), is used for cutting off branches that are too large for the knife, for removing dead ones, etc. It can be had in various sizes, from fourteen to twenty inches in length. THE GARDEN TROWEL, (Fig. 112), is used for setting the smaller kinds of plants when transferred from pots to the open ground; for transplanting annuals and many other uses, it is a very necessary little implement. PRUNING AND BuppDING KNIvEs, (Fig. 113), are ne- cessary to every gardener. ‘They are of different sizes and shapes, for the various purposes of grafting, bud- ding, etc., and are made of the best steel. GRAPE Scrtssors.—These are slender-pointed scissors, used for thinning out the berries of foreign grapes when Fig. 114.—LAWN SCYTHE. they are about half grown, so that those that are left may have room to develop. This operation should never be neglected if large berries and well shaped bunches are desired. FLOWER GATHERERS.—A very useful ae ; the scissors cutting off, and at the same time holding fast the flower or fruit after it is cut, thus enabling one to reach much farther to cut flowers or fruits than if both hands had to be used. It is particularly useful in gathering rose-buds, as the stem can be cut off with but little danger from the thorns. . Lawn ScytuHes, (Fig. 114).—The lawn scythe is now but little used, the lawn mower taking its place, unless GARDEN IMPLEMENTS. 224 on hill-sides or among trees or shrubs, where the lawn mower cannot be worked. Lawn Mowers, (Fig. 115).—The Saad improvements made in Lawn Mowers during the past few years, and the low price at which they may now be obtained, have made their introduction com- mon to every gar- den. They are of many sizes, from the small machine that can be easily worked by a boy, Fig. 115.—LAWN MOWER. and admirably eanicd for city garden plots, to the large horse mowers, that may be daily seen in use in our larger parks. We have in use both the “‘ Excelsior ” and «* Archimedean ” Lawn Mowers, and have found them excellent in all respects. THE GARDEN Router, (Fig. 116), is indispensable to « a well kept lawn, and should always follow after mowing, keeping the ground level and compact; and after gravel walks have been raked over, the rolleris necessary to smooth them down. THE WoopEN Lawn RaAkgE, (Fig. 117), is used for raking off lawns pre- vious to and after using the scythe or __ lawn mower, and for removing dead Fig. 1 116.—routEr. leaves and other rubbish. THE Rakes, (Fig.118), is used to level the surface of the ground after it has been spaded or hoed, and to prepare a 7 —— 228 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. it for the reception of seeds or plants. Rakes are made of different sizes, for convenience in using between rows of plants, with from six to six- teen teeth. When a crop like cabbages is newly planted, we use the rake in preference to anything else, as raking over the surface before the weeds start to grow, destroys the germ of the weed, never allowing it to appear at all. THE Grass Enoinc KNIFE, (Fig. 119), is used for cutting the grass edgings of flower-beds, . its rounded edge fitting into curved lines, for which the spade would be unsuitable. Orr ic cn TTT i Fig. 117. ~~ Fig. 118. Fic. 120. Fig. 121. Fig. 122, THE SICKLE, (Fig. 120).—This is a most useful imple- ment for switching around and trimming off grass, in GARDEN IMPLEMENTS. 229 places where the scythe or lawn mower cannot be used, or where the place to be cut is small. Hepce SHears, (Fig. 121), are better fitted for clip- ping hedges than the Bill Hook, some- : times used for the purpose, particularly in inexperienced hands. A line should be set at the hight to which the hedge is to be cut, as a guide to work by. HAND-PRUNING SHEARS, (Fig. 122). —These are very efficient and useful; they will cut off a small branch as clean as if a knife had been used. ‘They are in- dispensable in pruning small fruit-trees and vines, and for use in the grapery and garden. PoLE oR TREE PRUNING SHEARS, (Fig. 123). — These shears are attached to a pole, and operated by means of a lever moyed by a cord or a wire; they enable one to cut off branch- es from trees, shrubbery, etc., that are beyond the reach of the ordinary pruning shears. Branches of an inch and a half in diameter may be easily cut off with this instrument. GARDEN SyriInce, (Fig. 124).—The syringe is in Fig. 123.—TREE PRUNER. Fig. 124.—GARDEN SYRINGE. daily use in the greenhouse or conservatory, where syr- inging is necessary to keep the plants in a flourishing 230 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE, and healthy condition. ‘They are made of several sizes and patterns, and fitted with roses for dispersing water with varying force. _ WartERING-Pot.—A watering-pot is indispensable in the greenhouse or conservatory, where it is daily needed. It should be obtained of a suit- able size, from one to four gal- lons, with a rose for sprinkling, which may be detached at will. THE Excetsior Pump, (Fig. 125), 1s a very compact and use- ful implement for greenhouse and garden work. It is easily operated, and throws a continu- ous stream. It is very effective for watering shrubbery, gardens, or lawns, and may be used in an emergency as a fire extinguish- er and prevent a conflagration. THE SIDNEY SEED-SOWER, (Fig. 126).—This is a very useful implement, enabling Fig. 125.—EXCELSIOR PUMP. Fig. 126. Fig. 128. the operator to sow seeds with perfect regularity, especi- ally in wet or windy weather. It will distribute large or GARDEN IMPLEMENTS. Dal small seeds with equal regularity, either broadcast or in drills or pots. THE EXcELsIon WEEDING Hook, (Fig. 127), is a very handy implement for removing weeds from among small and tender plants, and for stirring up the soil. It can be used between rows of seedlings, orna- mental plants, or wherever it is desirable to remove weeds, without in- jury to the plants or soiling the hands. Noyes’ HAND WEEDER, (Fig. 128), isa kind of minia- ture hand hoe, and is very convenient and useful for working between plants, dressing pots, and clean- | ing away weeds, where a * large hoe could not be used to good advantage. Lavres’ anp CuIL- DRENS GARDEN TOOLS, (Fig. 129).—In all flower gardens there is a great deal of hand-work to be done. This lot of small implements consisting of a spade, fork, rake, and hoe, will be found very useful in working on small flower borders. Step Lappers, (Fig. 130).—The step-ladder is always useful in a garden, especially during the fruiting season. It is made in different sizes, varying from three to ten y= — —=— I Fig. 129.—SMALL GARDEN SET. h, N eae \ Fig. 130.—sTEP LADDER. 232 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE, feet, and weighing from ten to thirty pounds; it is made with flat steps, so that a person may stand upon them while working, and can be extended or contracted as re- quired. For use amongst large trees, in the orchard, a much greater length of ladder is required, and there are yarious forms of orchard ladders in use, but the step- ladder is sufficient for all ordinary garden uses. HaAND-GLASSES.—The uses of these have been men- tioned under cauliflowers, cucumber, etc. Home-made hand-glasses, being simply a small frame covered with a pane of glass, are very useful, but as they exclude some light they are not equal to those made with glass allaround. Hand-glasses y= S)) ~with metal frames and glass sides and top, are made of differ- Se DON BAND GEASS. ent sizes and styles, one of the more elaborate of which is shown in fig. 131. Though somewhat expensive, they will, if carefully used, last many years. Trellises, or supports for plants, are needed in the flower and vegetable garden not only for climbers, but for keeping plants which have weak stems within proper bounds. ‘Trel- lises for pots may be purchased ready-made, as may those for climb- ing roses and such plants ; they are usually made of rattan upon a frame of light wooden stakes, and some are made entirely of wire. A _per- son of a mechanical turn can readily make all that will be need- ed. A few engravings are given here as suggestions. Fig. 132 shows a useful support made with a barrel hocp an’ staves; the same plan may be carried out with two GARDEN IMPLEMENTS, 233 or more hoops, and laths, if staves are too heavy. This will answer for tomatoes, raspberries, and various other plants. A more permanent to- mato trellis is shown in fig. 133, In which slats are sup- ported by A -shaped up- - rights. If put ~ together with screws, such a trellis may be carefully put away in the fall and made to last several years. A rustic trellis, like that in fig. 134, is often useful in the flower garden, or it may servé when covered with climbers to divide the flower from the vegetable gar- YZ den. It ismade i> of sticks of cedar or other durable wood, set as shown in the ~engraying, and, tied where the \ bars cross one #7 another with Fig. 153.—TOMATO TRELLIS. strong tarred YZ YY ‘ oo Z twine With 3 | === ee 64 Guano, How to Use.......... a ee 18 Guano. Mixing with Earth......... 18 Guano, Perivial. 4.2.21 tices = ects 22 Guano, Quantity to Apply......... 19 Hanging-Baskets. Filling.......... 74 * Hay-Seed ”’ tor Lawn...) iccs2- tes 24 Heating by Double Flues........ . 94 Heatine Dy Hot, Water. (72s = 3.2% 95 Hedges for Protecting Gardens.... 10 Herbaceous Perennials, Hardy..... 107 Herbaceous Perennials, Hardy, List Of 5s) atone endian Coe eee 109 Herbs, Sweet. 8 town toe ees Naetas Con eee 199 Horseradish: ..23vest no ating sae 200 Hot-Beds i...) .. sees ee phere eae 102 Hot-Beds, Ventilating............. _.103- GARDENING FOR PLEASURE, Hot-House or Forcing Grapery..... 150 Hot-House Plauts, List of.......... 80 House, Approaeh 40-7 5.2- 20-52) = 15 Hyacinths in Glasses............:. 38 Hyacinths, Piantmg =. 2 36 Implemenis, Garden: 7... 223 Digging Fork....... cities ees 224 Draw Hoey je 225 Excelsior PHmpece ssc 605s 230 Excelsior Weeding-Hook..... 231 Flower Gatherers............ 226 Garden Rotter siege oe 227 Garden Syringe.............. 229 Garden. Trowélsi 4.25 2... <5. 226 Grape Scisn@i. i222... ss: <<: 226 Grass Edging Knife.......... 228 Hand-Glassesus jesse os an 231 Hand-Pruning Shears....... 229 Hedge Shears..............-. 229 Ladies Garden Tools......... 231 Lawn Mowers, (2 3i.oce2.. 25: 227 Lawn Styihess eso ee 3 226 Manure. Werkss). saeeey = <=. 3 224 Noyes’ Hand-Weeder....-... 231 Pole-Pruning Shears......... 229 Prone Hoe. oe 445. 5: 225 Pruning and Budding Knives226 Prunthe Saws. es 3S ae: = 226 Push Hee: 6.8 os etn oe: 225 Rake. 2.222 ee eee 227 Reel and 5gn@.. 222s... -: 225 Shovel. oi: 2 3s seers See 224 pickle... . “sso eee 228 Sidney Seed-Sower.......... 230 Spades .30.: sonore eee 224 Step-Ladders. 242 22 secs a8; 231 Trellises .. 5 eg ee 232 Waterine-Por. Co sseene se . Sak 230 Wheelbarrow... ... eens 2 ee Wooden Lawn Rake......... 227 insects PPE ea bese ban ek 115 Angle W.Gritca ee 119 Ants. s: 232. See 118 Brown and White Scale...... 119 Green Flys ki 55¢- =e .116 Ground or Blue Aphis. ..... 117 Mealy Bug.....-.-.------- 65, 118 Red Spider. Oe ee ial glee 118 Rose .Bug 23s sere 116 Rose Siie...-A.ca0tie eee 116 Thrips 23. d.:... cto 119 Instructions, General... . 42... . 222 Jardinieres,...... 61 Location of Garden................ 9 | Pots for Plants, Size of............ 66 Manures. ...... 222. cccccccsecceeees 16 | Pots, ‘‘Plunging”’’..,... ee ee 79 eee 202 | Pottme Plants.........-.....0: pee) ee -.,.. 65 | Propagation by Layering.......... 46 Mealy Bug, Destroying............ 65 | Propagating, ‘‘ Saucer System ” of. 44. AE eee 202 | Propagating Woody Plants ....... it MCUGth, WV GUCE. oe eee. oe ewe ee ewe 203 | Propagating by Cuttings............ 43 Mildew ....... 1 ees eae 120 | Propagating by Seeds.............. 39 0 DE a ia 122 | Pruning for Shape.......:........- 137 CMMI 5c cn se ccor ce scconccces 204 | Pruning Grape-vines............... 141 EE a ee eee 204 | Pruning Hot-House Grapes........ 148 Narcissuses, Planting.............. Ser a MERION SN: EULESS ira cnn cae ie neato oq 140 EUG Sek oc vc tc cccncscs Sere ted IE oS oc oe faa akcmeiee 2. oc 211 Es tS oo vine nts o's ecce ce BEE RIN eto nO trans Soe «Senn oUhen ove 165 Nectarines, Varieties of............ 169 | Quince, Varieties of................ 165 Oats with Grass ee Se TNE Ss a, ae cach wantin ewes >< <2 212 COR ed Se ws.snee ccs cs Een UAORCETY «2 oc cod ecus) ssoment 6-02 kee Se 208 | Raspberry, Varieties of.......%.... 160 SS 208 | Raspberries, Black Cap............ 161 0 ee 209 | Raspberries, Black Caps, Varieties 0 ape 8 ee 209 (ine Sees eee oe pe ae ee 161 See ae 2 pees a MeL ee pder = oe ct eS eA Peach, Varieties of................ fos-) e-pottine Planta. ; 2.52 2255... 3- 61 ere Lot eee LS Ae gt 4) See op i Can ats Pa 212 Pears, ee 172 ' Road Drain....... eee ee 16 Pear-Trees, Cordon-Trained.. ict. Cees RMN eo wa carnnale Soe e ess wee 116 Pepper a a Belt ese Pane ook osc oo see ne Pee Pepper = le 196 | Roses, Propagating..............+- 44 08 ES oe ee Sad SUE OS 5g cot» oa sont oe aoe «oes 213 Pits without Artificial Heat aac’ 98 | Salsify, Black........ Ee a eee 214 Plant Protector, Bryants’.......... LS AMS TOTES oy Co fa Oe oe 81 Plants for Summer Decoration..... 69 | Scale, Brown and White........... 119 Plants for Wardian Cases.......... ean) PEAR ra lon nw nace see's us 2 214 SS 121 | Screens for Plants................. 126 Plants, Growing from Cuttings.... 42 | Sea Kale...............-....-..005. 215 Plants, Growing from Seeds....... MY Sere TEOMER :. oi. = occ coet tos wees 59 Matar SIGE-EEOUING.. 2.2. ...-..... a SECS ARNE... o.. c cece deneuae 112 2 EO 124 | Seeds, Propagation of Plants from. 39 LL SL 60 | Seedlings, Damping off............ 41 Plants, Potting from the Open LS ti gee Ce ape gee ee 125 2 SS: ae Reet oA oS. 8 soc ea Seas sea eee &: 215 Plants, Temperature for........... Sef Shaois, EFlind vc... 5 esc sg ske> eee 44 200 Shrubs, ists Ofo.iss.ptioec. es eae ae 104 WMOKeC-ANC 6 ness ie. bows be ..: 93 Soil-for Secds..csee.aektk ksi sess 40 Soil, Botting. i.2. Buea ase sos Sek 60 PINSEH. . .. sSoveoesbpeeee ss awa. 216 Spinach, New Zealand............. 217 Spinach, Substitutes for........... 217 SHURE... .. Ps eee terete eee ate! 218 Strawberry, Worcigs 35) soe 252. 157 Strawberry, Growing..............153 Strawberry Runners in Pots....... 154 Strawberry,. Varieties of........... 157 SWeebe0lLAIG2 Fi. Se vad ean votes Gee 219 THEIRS: . ces os. ee ee Sen ee 119 Tobacco-Water for Plants.......... 64 Toma: J. Kuss. tac aeos eee ee eee 221 Tomato Seeds, Starting ........... 59 Trees, List of Evergreen........... 106 Trees, Pruning Fruit.............. 133 Tulips, Planting. ....2scescsccscars 36 GARDENING FOR PLEASURE. Turnips.......c.asceun eee ree ee a | Walks, Garden. Ui seeteesacs yin ak? ee Wardian Cases..... pave wrsteres seme 82 Wash for Glass ~. 22. oe. eee 127 Watering Potted Plants............ 62 Window .Box: .. --seceee- atest ee 67 Worm, Angle... >) 119 Monthly Calendar of Operations. . .234 J2DHATY...3. . sche eres eee ee 234 Hebruary~ oo steecest ive xp March . soso teete sabes seek 236 6 gt Re ee: aera ae a 237 May. cSadse Acer ees oan eo 238 SUBE.. Sdeeit Se Sree eee ee Se xe <> 239 a ee oe a ey ee 240 Aueuast |... 22 peeceee eens 2 241 SepteniQer:. scaviee - oe cee 242 -Octabets 5 ssc neers ae 242 Novemiber’. . 3: .2ccbes fees. eee 244 December: 82 Sees ee 245 saa > ‘GARDENING FOR PROFIT: A GUIDE TO THE SUCCESSFUL CULTIVATION OF THE MARKET AND FAMILY GARDEN. By PETER HENDERSON. Peete se LOST RATED. This work has had a constant and remarkable sale ever since it was issued, and the later enlarged and revised edition is as well received as was the first. It was the first work on Market Gardening ever published in this country. Its author is - well known as a market gardener of many years’ successful experience. In this work he has recorded this experience, and given without reservation, the a _ necessary to the profitable culture of the MAREBKE'T GARDEN. It is a work for which there was an urgent demand before its issue, and one: which commends itself, not only to those who grow vegetables for sale, but to the’ cultivator of the FAMILY GARDEN, to whom it presents methods quite different from the old ones generally practiced. It is an ORIGINAL AND PURELY AMERICAN Work, and not made up as books on gar- dening too often are, by quotations from foreign authors. Every thing is made perfectly plain, and the subject treated in all its details, from the selection of the soil to preparing the products for market. CONTENTS. Men fitted for the Business of Gardening. The Amount of Capital Required, and Working Force per Acre. Profits of Market Gardening. Location, Situation, and Laying Out. Soils, Drainage, and Preparation. Manures, Implements. Uses and Management of Cold Frames. Formation and Management of Hot-beds. Forcing Pits or Greenhouses. Seeds and Seed Raising. How, When, and Where to Sow Seeds. . Transplanting Insects. Packing of Vegetables for Shipping. Preservation of Vegetables in Winter. Vegetables, their Varieties and Cultivation. In the last chapter, the most valuable kinds are described, and the cuiture proper to each is given in detail. Sent post-paid, price $1.50. ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 245 Broadway, New-York. PRACTICAL FLORICULTURE; A Guide to the Successful Propagation and Cultivation FLORISTS’ PLANTS. By PETER HENDERSON, Brereen Crry, N. J., AUTHOR OF “GARDENING FOR PROFIT.” oon ee Mr. HENDERSON is known as the largest Commercial Florist in the country. In the present work he gives a full account of his modes of propagation and cultivation. It is adapted to the wanta of the amateur, as well as the professional grower. The seope of the work may be judged from the following TABLE OF Aspect and Soil. Laying out Lawn and Flow- er Gardens. Designs for Flower Gardens. Pianting of Flower Beds. Soils for Potting. Temperature and Moisture. The Potting of Plants. Cold Frames— Winter Pro- tection. Construction of Hot-Beds. Greenhouse Structures. Medes of Heating. Propagation by Seeds. . Propagation by Cuttings. Propagation of Lilies. Culture of the Rose. Cuiture of the Verbena. Culture of the Tuberose. CONTENTS, Orchid Culture, Holland Bulbs. Cape Bulbs. Winter-Flowering Plants. Construction of Bouguets. Hanging Baskets. Window Gardening. Rock-Work. Insects. Nature’s Law of Colors. Packing Plants. Plants by Mail. Profits of Floriculture. Soft-Wooded Plants. Annuals. Hardy Herbaceous Plants. Greenhouse Plants. Diary of Operations for eack Day of the Year. Beautifully Illustrated. Sent post-paid. -Price, $1.50. ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 245 Broadway, New-York. eb. 709 Pe S700 » ta este’, ye 52) ye ee Le LIBRARY OF CONGRESS UMA DOUcrbebist « { 4 atl