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Gardening for Profit;

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A GUIDE TO THE SUCCESSFUL CULTIVATION we ~

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OF THE

MARKET AND FAMILY GARDEN.

NEW AND ENLARGED EDITION.

BY
PETER HENDERSON,

JERSEY CITY HEIGHTS, N. J.

ILLUSTRATED.

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NEHGS
NEW YORK: beens
ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,
245 BROADWAY.
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Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1874, by the

ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

CONTENTS.

MUMME INO ia. gic ule ilu og ci 6 eis a 64a 2'Ss's sine cc's wre x SORE mM Ae mmale CoC eS IeT EOE LOS 4
meee tet SOCONE IAILION: «35.2 605.5) Sas’ os s aadeemwie dais as ealiedae venues 7
CHAPTER I.

The Men Fitted for the Business of Gardening...................2--20008- 9

; CHAPTER II.
Amount of Capital Required and Working Force per Acre................ 14
CHAPTER III.
Prans OF Market Gardening, oe... 56s aadec sess ho! oesstanceetatamens sans a 18
CHAPTER IV.
The Market Gardens Near London............ be aie clmauemra nem om eae cestan vee 21
CHAPTER V.
ioesiion, Situation, and Layine Oniess wages. ss<+ sc adsense cdeaccavedswee ra Oe
CHAPTER VI.
Sole, Drainace, and Preparations 2.22226 Fee ess sadedelsic cis paca vasc vents 26
CHAPTER VII.
IRATE 2c. vais. wais'c Dial Wale RE Rcpaiags Fane 6 bwin xcs + <0) «15 Sera Wiatel ad Pao e ats 34
CHAPTER VIII
PDICMIONTS. . oss 0s eles eons PEA oe eye RN eis Gn ak os ois Sees ea Laahet Cee
CHAPTER IX.
The Uses and Management of Cold Frames................ccceceessccecee. 49
CHAPTER X.
The Formation and Management of Hot-Beds..................2..2.... . 55
CHAPTER XI.
Moree Pita aud Green NOUsess.- 1.5 2 ciscs sca sve bees cesses eaeeencemenes 63
CHAPTER XI.
Seeds and Seed Raising... .....-......--0:+02 ceceeeeee Joesicore wines mate oes 73
CHAPTER Xm.
How, When, and Where to Sow Seeds... ...........5-ceecessesceees aah nee
CHAPTER XIV.
SE ATT IINTU ois oon b's w ys aes = © asisls ols jnenin oe So Slama wast dae plete oie teeters $0
CH APTER XV.
Packing of Vegetables for Shipping................ceececcccccceeeee seceee 94
CHAPTER XVI.
Preservation of Vegetables in Winter...............46 seseeee ty Cree 96
CHAPTER XVIL.
MGOGEBS 50s ncccnecens Pepe MeatiarSins < Aacsains slaty gies 2 De woke vials ='s aibislaisiese's S'mihia'aly se-cee 99
CHAPTER XVIII.
Vegetables, their Varieties and Cultivation.................04. Daur gerne, Oe
Monthly Calendar........... -0----22 sees cece cee ce ee ene reee ener eeee ec eenees 26E

3

INTRODUCTION

I hope it is no egotism to state that in both the Floral
and Vegetable departments of Horticulture, in which I
have been engaged for the past eighteen years, I have been
entirely successful. Now, we know, that success only
is the test of good generalship, and it follows that, having
been successful, I have thus earned my title to merit.
From this standpoint, I claim the right to attempt the in-
struction of the student of horticulture in the tactics of
that field.

We have very few works, either agricultural or horti-
cultural, by American authors, whose writers are practical
men, and fewer still of these who are men that have “risen
from the ranks.” The majority of such authors being ex-
editors, lawyers, merchants, etc., men of means and edu-
cation, who, engaging in the business as a pastime, ina
year or two generously conclude to give the public the
benefit of their experience — an experience, perhaps, that
has been confined to a city lot, when the teachings were
of the garden, or of a few acres in the suburbs, when the
teachings were of: the farm. ;

INTRODUCTION. V

The practical farmer or gardener readily detects the ring
of this spurious metal, and excusably looks upon all such
instructors with contempt. To this cause, perhaps moro
than any other, may be attributed the wide-spread preju-
dice against book-farming and book-gardening, by which
thousands shut themselves off from information, the pos-
possession of which might save years of useless toil and
privation.

I have some pride, under present circumstances, in say-
ing, that I have had a working experience in all depart-
ments of gardening, from my earliest boyhood, and even
to-day am far more at home in its manual operations than
its literature, and have only been induced to write the fol-
lowing pages at the repeated solicitations of friends and
correspondents, to whose inquiries relative to commercial
gardening, my time will no longer allow me to reply in-
dividually. The work has been hurriedly written, at
intervals snatched from the time which legitimately be-
longed to my business, and therefore its text is likely
to be very imperfect. I have endeavored, however, to be
as concise and clear as possible, avoiding all abstruse or
theoretical questions, which too often serve only to confuse
and dishearten the man who seeks only for the instruction
that shall enable him to practice.

Although the directions given are mainly for the market
garden, or for operations on a large scale, yet the amateur
or private gardener will find no difficulty in modifying
them to suit the smallest requirements. The commercial
gardener, from the keen competition, ever going on in
the vicinity of large cities, is, in his operations, taxed to
bis utmost ingenuity to get at the most expeditious and

VI GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

economical methods to produce the finest crops—methods,
that we believe to be superior to those in general use in
private gardens, and which may, with profit, be followed.

Our estimates of labor, I trust, will not be overlooked;
for, I know, it is no uncommon thing for gentlemen to
expect their gardeners to do impossibilities in this way.
The private garden cannot be properly cropped and cared
for with less labor than can our market gardens, and these,
we know, require nearly the labor of one man to an acre,
and that too, with every labor-saving arrangement in
practice. When the care of green-houses, or graperies, is
in addition to this, extra labor must be given accordingly,
or something must suffer.

The greatest difficulty that has presented itself to me
in giving the directions for operations, has been the dates ;
in a country having such an area and diversity of temper-
ature as ours, directions could not well be given for the
extremes, so as the best thing to be done under the cir-
cumstances, I have taken the latitude of New York as a
basis, and my readers must modify my instructions to suit
their locality. The number of varieties of each vegetable
described here, is very small in comparison with those that
are known, or the seeds of which are offered forsale. I
have given only such, as I have found most serviceable,
Those who wish for a more extended list are referred to
the excellent work by Fearing Burr, Jr., on Garden
Vegetables.

Jersey City Heights N. J.,
December ist, 1866.

PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION.

It is now seven years since I wrote “Gardening for
Profit,” and, although it has met with a reception that
has been exceedingly flattering, I have ever since felt that
it was too hurriedly done, and far from complete. The
suggestions and queries made to me by some of the many
thousands of its readers, have been the means of develop-
ing many new ideas and plans for better cultivation, which
I have the pleasure to embody in this edition. A new
edition of a work of this kind becomes necessary every
few years, to enable it to keep pace with the improvement
in varieties, as well as in modes of culture. In the pres-
ent edition, the part of the work treating of varieties has
been carefully revised, and we believe the kinds described
to be, as a whole, the best in their respective classes this
day in use, either for private or commercial purposes. It
is gratifying to know, by letters from every section of the
country, that the publication of this work has been the
means of helping to success thousands of inexperienced
cultivators of the soil, of both classes—those “ Gardening
for Pleasure,” as well as those “ Gardening for Profit.” It
is true that some that have been induced to engage in the
business by reading my book have failed. Such must ever
be the case—less or more—in every business; but I have
good reason to believe that the percentage of failures in
gardening is less than that of almost any other business,

Peres HENDERSON.
Jersey City Heights, N. J.,
January, 1874,

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GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

CHAPTER, I.

THE MEN FITTED FOR THE BUSINESS OF
GARDENING. ;

Although we shall here show the business of garden
ing to be a profitable one, let no man deceive himself by
supposing that these profits are attainable without steady
personal application.

Having been long known as extensively engaged in the
business, I am applied to by scores every season, asking
how they can make their lands available for garden
purposes. The majority of these are city merchants, who
for investment, or in anticipation of a rural retreat in the
autumn of their days, have purchased a country place,
and in the mean time they wish to make it pay; they have
read or heard that market gardening is profitable, and they

think it an easy matter to hire a gardener to work the place,
9

10 GARDENING FOR PROFN

while they attend their own mercantile duties as before.
They are usually gentlemen of horticultural tendencies,
read all the magazines and books on the subject, and from
the knowledge thus obtained, plume themselves with the
xonceit that they are able to guide the machine.

Many hundreds from our large cities delude themselves
m this way every season, in different departments of hor
ticulture; perhaps more in the culture of fruits than of
vegetables. I have no doubt that thousands of acres are
annually planted, that in three years afterwards are aban-
doned, and the golden dreams of these sanguine gentle-
men forever dissipated. Although the workers of the
soil will not, as a class, compare in intelligence with the
mercantile men of the cities, it is a mistake to suppose
that this want of education or intelligence is much of a
drawback, when it comes to cultivating strawberries or
cabbages. True, the untutored mind does not so readily
comprehend theoretical or scientific knowledge, but for
that very reason it becomes more thoroughly practical,
and I must say that, as far as my experience has gone,
(without being thought fora moment to derogate against
the utility of a true scientific knowledge in all matters
pertaining to the soil), that any common laborer, with or-
dinary sagacity, and twelve months’ practical working in
a garden, would have a far better chance of success, other
things being equal, than another without the practice,
even if he had all the writings, from Liebig’s down, at his
fingers’ ends. Not that a life long practice is absolutely
necessary to success, for I can see, from where I write, the
homes at least of half a dozen men, all now well to do in
the world, not one of whom had any knowledge of gar

MEN FITTED FOR THE BUSINESS, 11

dening, either practical or theoretical, when they started.
the business, but they were all active working men, “‘ ac-
tual settlers,” and depended alone on their own heads and
hands for success, and not on the doubtful judgment and
industry of a hired gardener, who had no further interest
in the work than his monthly salary. |

“D. H.,” writes me thus: “I am a book-keeper with
a salary from which I can save but little; but by
rigid economy during a series of years, I have scraped
together $2,000. My health is only ordinary. With
that capital can I succeed as a market gardener by hir-
ing an experienced gardener?” This inquiry is a type
of hundreds I now receive annually, and to which may -
be given this general reply. From the nature of the
question no very definite answer can be given, though I
would say that the chances are two to one against suc-
cess. It is a well-known fact that the chances of suc-
cess in mercantile business are even far less than this.
“PD. H.” may be a capital book-keeper, yet it is doubtful
if he has the necessary endurance to stand the wear on
the constitution that market gardening involves. If he
concludes to start at gardening, he is more likely than
not to select a soil entirely unsuited to the purpose. In
most sections of the country there are fewer soils suitable
for the cultivation of vegetables than there are those that
are unsuitable. Again, he is an educated man, and this
very fact would be rather against him than otherwise; as
it would naturally incline him to refined society and asso-
ciations, which I am sorry to say the beginner in market
gardening can not possibly afford to indulge in. The
hiring of an “experienced gardener” would take all the

12 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

cream off of the profits; experienced market gardeners
are exceedingly scarce; our laborers in the market gar-
dens are generally an ignorant class, with very little
ambition, and not one in a hundred of them is fit to
manage. Though employing forty hands myself, I have
often been sadly at a loss to select from them a suitable
man as foreman, though many of them had been with me
for years. When one shows the necessary ability, his
“services are much sought after, and he readily commands
$500 or $600 a year and board. Clerks, book-keepers,
and city-bred men generally, are not the ones likely to be
successful as workers of the soil; few of them have any
conception of the labor required to be done to insure suc-
cess. I started business in Jersey City at the age of
23, with a capital of $500, which it had taken me three
years to make as a working gardener. For the first five
years I was in business, I can safely say that we worked,
on an average, sixteen hours a day, winter and summer,
with rarely a day for recreation. Now the majority of
clerks, book-keepers, or salesmen do not work much more
than half that time, and few of them could endure this
lengthened strain in a summer’s sun, and without this
endurance success is out of the question; for all begin-
ners to-day must do as I did until they get their heads
above water, or else, such is the competition, they must
go to the wall in the business; I therefore caution all such
who are not in robust health, to avoid either farming or
gardening, if their necessities require them to make a
living thereby. That the work of the gardener is con-
ducive to health when that has not been impaired, there
is no question; but the long hours of labor and the ex- |

/
MEN FITTED FOR THE BUSINESS. 13

posure necessary to success must tell against a feeble

constitution.
Tne business of market gardening, though pleasant,

healthful, and profitable, is a laborious one, from which
any one, not accustomed to manual labor, would quickly
shrink. The labor is not what may be termed heavy, but
the hours are long; not less than an average of 12 hours
a day, winter and summer. No one should begin it after
passing the meridian of life; neither is it fitted for men of
weak or feeble physical organization, for it is emphatically
a business in which one has to rough it; in summer plant-
ing, when it is of the utmost importance to get the plants
in when raining, we repeatedly work for hours in drench-
ing rains, and woe be to the “boss,” or foreman, who
would superintend the operation under the protection of
an umbrella; he must take his chances with the rank and
file, or his prestige, as a commander, is gone.

CHAPTER ILI.

THE AMOUNT OF CAPITAL REQUIRED, AND
WORKING FORCE PER ACRE.

The small amount of capital required to begin farming
operations, creates great misconception of what is neces-
sary for commercial gardening; for, judging from the
small number of acres wanted for commencing a garden,
many suppose that a few hundred dollars is all sufficient
for a market gardener. For want of information on this
subject, hundreds have failed, after years of toil and priva-
tion. At present prices, (1874), no one would be safe to
start the business of vegetable market gardening, in the
manner it is carried on in the neighborhood of New York,
with a capital of less than $300 per acre, for anything less
than ten acres; if on a larger scale, it might not require —
quite somuch. The first season rarely pays more than
current expenses, and the capital of $300 per acre is all
absorbed in horses, wagons, glass, manures, etc. If the
capital be insufficient to procure these properly, the
chance of success is correspondingly diminished.

I can call to mind at least a dozen cases that have occur.
14

AMOUNT OF CAPITAL REQUIRED. 15

rel in my immediate neighborhood within the last five
years, where steady industrious men have utterly failed,
and lost every dollar they possessed, merely by attempt-
ing the business with insufficient capital. A few years
ago, a man called upon me and stated that he was about
to become my neighbor, that he had leased a place of
twenty acres alongside of mine for ten years, for $600 per
year, for the purpose of growing vegetables, and asked
me what I thought of his bargain. I replied that the
place was cheap enough, only I was afraid he had got too
much land for that purpose, if he attempted the working
of it all. I further asked him what amount of capital he
had, and he told me that he had about $1000. I said that
I was sorry to discourage him, but that it was better for
him to know that the amount was entirely inadequate to
begin with, and that there was not one chance in fifty that
he would succeed, and that it would be better, even then,
to relinquish the attempt; but he had paid $150 for a
quarter’s rent in advance, and could not be persuaded from
making the attempt. The result was as I expected; he be-
gan operations in March, his little capital was almost swal-
lowed up in the first two months, and the few crops he had
put in were so inferior, that they were hardly worth send-
ing to market. Without money to pay for help, his place
got enveloped in weeds, and by September of the same
year, he abandoned the undertaking.

Had the same amount of capital and the same energy
been expended on three or four acres, there is hardly a
doubt that success would have followed. Those who wish
to live by gardening, cannot be too often told the danger
of spreading over too large an area, more particularly in

16 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

starting. With a small capital, two or three acres niay
be profitably worked; while if ten or twelve were at-
tempted with the same amount, it would most likely re-
sult in failure. Many would suppose, that if three acres
could be leased for $100 per year, that twenty acres would
be cheaper at $500; nothing can be more erroneous, un-
less the enterprise be backed up with the necessary capi-
tal—$300 per acre. For be it known, that the rental or
interest on the ground used for gardening operations is
usually only about 10 per cent. of the working expenses,
so that an apparently cheap rent, or cheap purchase, does
not very materially affect the result. It is very different
from farming operations, where often the rent or interest
on purchase money amounts to nearly half the expenses.

The number of men employed throughout the year on
a market garden of ten acres, within three miles of mar-
ket, planted in close crop, averages seven; this number is
varied in proportion, somewhat, according to the quantity
of glass in use. I have generally employed more than
that; fully a man to an acre, but that was in consequence
of having in use more than the ordinary proportion of
sashes. ‘This may seem to many an unnecessary force for
such a small area; but all our experience proves, that any
attempt to work with less, will be unprofitable. What
with the large quantity of manure indispensable, '75 tons
per acre; the close planting of the crops, so that every
foot will tell; the immense handling preparatory for mar-
ket, to be done on a double crop each season, one market-
ed in mid-summer, another in fall and winter, a large and
continued amount of labor is required. On lands within
2 short distance of market—say two miles—-two horses

AMOUNT OF CAPITAL REQUIRED. iy,

are sufficient; but when double that distance, three are
necessary. When three animals are required, it is most
profitable to use a team of mules to do the plowing and
heavy hauling of manure, etc., and do the marketing by a
strong active horse. Every operation in cultivating the
ground is done by horse labor, whenever practicable te do
so; but it must be remembered that the crops of a garden
are very different from those of a farm; the land is in
most cases (particularly for the first crops) planted so
close, that nothing will do to work with but the hoe,

CHA Fait ta

PROFITS OF MARKET GARDENING.

—— Oe

This is rather a difficult if not a delicate matter to touch,
as the profits are so large, in some instances, as almost to
exceed belief, and so trifling, under other conditions, as
hardly to be worth naming. These latter conditions, how-
ever, are generally where men have started on unsuitable
soils, too far from market, or without money enough to
have ever got thoroughly under way. But as the object
of this work is to endeavor to show how the business can
be made a profitable one, I will endeavor to approximate
to our average profits per acre. As a rule, it may be
premised that for every additional acre over ten, the prof-
its per acre will to some extent diminish, from the fact
that a larger area cannot be so thoroughly worked as a
smaller one; besides there will often be a loss in price by
having to crowd larger quantities of produce into market,
and to leave it in the hands of inexperienced salesmen >
the majority of our products are quickly perishable, ant

must be sold when ready.

The average profits for the past fifteen years on all well
cultivated market gardens in this vicinity, has certainly
not been less than $300 per acre. For the past five years,

(from 1861 to 1866), they have been perhaps one-third
18

PROFITS OF MARKET GARDENING, 19

more; but these were years of “ war prices,” such as we
will be well content never to see again. These profits are
for the products of the open gardens only, not of the
frames or forcing pits, which are alluded to elsewhere.
These amounts are for the neighborhood of New York,
which I think, from the vast competition in business, is
likely to be a low average for the majority of towns and
cities throughout the country. Certain it is, that from
our lands, even at a value of from $1000 to $5000 per acre,
we can and do profitably grow and supply the majority
of towns within fifty miles around New York with fresh
vegetables, In these cases, no doubt, the consumer pays
full double the price that the raiser receives, for they
generally pass through the hands of two classes of “‘ mid-
dle-men,” before they reach the consumer; besides which
there are extra charges for packing, shipping, and freight.
Thus the consumer, in a country town, where land often
is not as much in value per acre as it is here per lot,
pays twice the value for his partially stale vegetables or
fruits, which he receives rarely sooner than twenty-four
hours after they are gathered.

In most of such towns, market gardening, carried on
after our manner, would, unquestionably, be highly remu-
nerative; for if these articles were offered to the consumer
fresh from the gardens, he would certainly be willing to
pay more for his home-grown products, than from the bruis
ed and battered ones that are freighted from the metropo-
lis. Take for example the article of Celery, which pays us
very well at 2 cents per root. There is hardly a city oz
town in the country, except New York, but where it sells
for twice, and in some cases six times, that price per root;

~

20 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

yet the great bulk of this article sold in Philadelphia, is
sent from New York, for which the consumer must pay at
least double the price paid here, for it is a bulky and ex-
pensive article to pack and ship, and must of a necessity
pay a profit, both to the agent here and in Philadelphia,
which of course comes out of the pocket of the consumer,
This is only one of many such articles of which the cul-
ture is imperfectly understood, and which the great mar-
ket of New York is looked to for a supply.

The following will show the rate of receipts and ex-
penditures for one acre of a few of the leading articles we
cultivate, taking the average of the past ten years, from
the grounds that have been brought up to the proper
standard of fertility necessary to the market garden.

EXPENDITURES FOR ONE ACRE.

MUO ancl igeacnea,s sales sizes teases ce oe eee nin wanes se scia $300
PAGES BOs Carla's cre es oe scapes ae cits seaieeted aac biptiants © 35
Manure, Wa FONG i. cos. cs ase wee ctne senecsies cslscsinas anne 100
RCH sera iced os iss 0 sie 5 wcrc ielerds a: on nese ace cepieare veraty mowlaie otsiatate 50
RE Ne Ne ete oie in Soa wis’ «i ole-s,clesigrmnen clajne aie el scatetas (ate ee weer 10
Wearone tear Of -LOols, ClC...d. cucs scares se oe come 10
Cost OF MEU... sels aware tiiaws be cheeses vices s' Oaee = . 100
$605

RECEIPTS FOR ONE ACRE.
12,000 Early Cabbages, at 5 cts. per head............... $600
14,000 Lettuce, at 1 cent per head........ccccceccnccece 140
30,000 Celery, at 2 cts. per head..... Rcbn epee amine eee es 600
$1340
605
$735

The rotation crops of Early Beets, or Onions, followed
by Horseradish, or Sweet Herbs, as a second crop, give
nearly the same results.

CEE Pin BV.

THE MARKET GARDENS NEAR LONDON.

For years I have been anxious to see and compare the
market gardens of London with those of New York, and
in the summer of 1872 I had an opportunity to do so.

The extent and thorough culture of these gardens is
something wonderful. One of the best I saw was in the ©
vicinity of Tottenham, owned by a Mr. Hollington. It
comprised about a hundred acres, every foot of which
was planted in close crop, and, as far as could be seen, it
would have been difficult to have picked up a bushel of
weeds on the whole of the hundred acres. Mr. Holling-
ton’s success in twenty years equals, if it does not sur-
pass, any of which we have record in America. When
he took possession of these hundred acres, twenty years
ago, he did so at a nominal rent, but without a lease,
with the condition, however (a very unfortunate one for
the owner), that the owner might enter upon possession
at any time by paying him the value of the crop upon it.
Mr. H., a man of great energy and shrewdness, at once
saw his advantage, and took care that his grounds should
at all seasons be cropped to the fullest extent, a thing
which can be better done in England than with us. The
result was that when the owner one day took it into his
head to take possession, he discovered that he would
have to pay more for the crop than the land was worth,
and there was nothing for him to do but to sell to the
tenant, or go on receiving the nominal sum for rent.

21

29 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

The result was that Mr. H. bought the land, and is now
perhaps the wealthiest market gardener around London.

The next grounds I visited were those of George Steele
& Sons, of Fulham, a point nearer to the city. These
grounds were also a model of order and neatness, although
a week previous three-fourths of the workmen had struck
for higher wages, and had gone to hay-making, leaving
the owners in a bad plight. The garden comprised fifty
acres, and the full number of hands was seventy-five.
Now there were less than twenty, and these second-rate.

Why, it may be asked, does it require seventy-five
men for fifty acres? Simply because John Bull will not
believe that land can be better dug with a plow and har-
row than with a spade. I took some time to argue the
point with Mr. Steele, and he declared that the morrow
would see for the first time a plow in the market gardens
of Fulham. Once there, it will remain, for there is no
one who has had practice with both methods but knows
that no digging with a spade or fork can bring the soil
to the mellow condition that the plow and harrow can.
Upon grounds of the extent of Mr. Steele’s the use of the
plow will save full one-third of the labor.

Here, too, and at Mr. Hollington’s, they were using
another very primitive tool, which I did not venture to
say anything about, for I thought I had trodden hard
enough on John’s conservative toes for one day. The
tool in question was a planting-stick made out of a spade-
handle, just such as was in use thirty years ago by the
cottagers of England or Scotland to set out a few dozen
Cabbage or Lettuce plants for their own use. Yet here,
where millions on millions of plants had to be set out, no

THE MARKET GARDENS NEAR LONDON. 23

better implement had been thought of. The spade-handle
dibber, even in the most experienced hands, is a waggling
implement, and is hardly more to be compared in effective-
ness to the pistol-handled dibber in use by the gardeners
of New York than a sickle is to a cradle in a wheat-field,

I found one practice in Messrs. Steele’s grounds which
our market gardeners might imitate with profit. The
practice is a very old one, and has been in use probably
for fifty years, but it is not much followed, if at all,
by market gardeners in the vicinity of New York, Phila-
delphia, or Boston, where its advantages would be even
greater than those around London. It is the use of the
common hand-glass, of a size about two feet on the side.
These would cost with us probably 75 cents or $1 each.
Messrs. Steele use these glasses in large numbers to for-
ward Cauliflower for heading. They are placed at dis-
tances of two feet apart, and three plants of Cauliflower
are planted under each. The hand-glasses are tilted up
for ventilation in sunny weather—used, in fact, just as
we use a hot-bed or cold-frame, and the Cauliflowers are
forwarded probably two weeks earlier than they would
be in the open ground, Of course there is not room
under the glasses for the three plants of Cauliflower to
form their heads there, but the object is to forward them
so that they will be large enough to head in the open
ground when the glasses are taken off—a most important
matter with us, as we find the trouble always is that we
can not get the Cauliflowers large enough until they are
checked by our hot and dry weather in June. Thus for-
warded in New York, I think it safe to say they would
readily bring $1.50 for each hand-glass,

COA PIT -yv.

LOCATION, SITUATION, AND LAYING OUT,

Location.—Before deciding on the spot for a garden,
t..2 much caution cannot be used in selecting the locality ;
mistakes in this matter are often the sole cause of want
of success, even when all other conditions are favorable.
It is always better to pay a rent or interest of $50 or even
$100 per acre on land one or two miles from market, than
to take the same quality of land, 6 or 7 miles distant, for
nothing ; for the extra expense of teaming, procuring ma-
nure, and often greater difficulty in obtaining labor, far
more than counterbalance the difference in the rental of the
land, Another great object in being near the market is,
that one can thereby take advantage of the condition of
prices, which often, in perishable commodities like garden
produce, is very variable. It not unfrequently happens that
from scarcity or an unusual demand, there will be a differ-
ence of $25 or $30 per load, even in one day, hence if near
a market, larger quantities can be thrown in than if at a
distance, and the advantage of higher rates be taken.

This disadvantage in distance only holds good in perish-
24

LOCATION, SITUATION, AND LAYING OUT. 25

able articles, that are bulky; the lighter and valuable
crops, such as Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Lettuce, Radishes,
etc., from more southerly and earlier localities, are grown
often hundreds of miles distant, and freighted to market
at a handsome profit. So with less perishable articles, such
as dry roots of Carrots, Beets, Parsnips, Horseradish, etc. ;
but the necessity of nearness to market for the bulky and
perishable crops, is imperative.

SrrvaTion AND Layrinc-ouT.—It is not always that
choice can be made in the situation of or aspect of the
ground; but whenever it can be made, a level spot should
be selected, but if there be any slope, let it be to the south.
Shelter is of great importance in producing early crops,
and if a position can be got where the wind is broken off
by woods or hills, to the north, or northwest, such a situa-
tion would be very desir-
able. In the absence of
=| this, we find it necessary
to protect, at least our fore-
_— ing and framing grounds,
4 with high board fences, or
better yet, belts of Norway
Spruce. The most conve-
nient shape of the garden
is a square or oblong form;
if square, a road 12 feet
wide should be made through the centre, intersected
by another road of similar width, see (fig. 1); but if ob-
long, one road of the same width, running through the ,
centre in a plot of ten acres, will be sufficient.

° *
Vueeraste Housr, WELLS, Etc.—Connected with ev:

26 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

ery market garden is a vegetable house, usually about 25
feet square, having a frost-proof cellar, over which is the
vegetable or washing house. In the second story is a loft
for seeds, storage, etc. Immediately outside the vegeta-
ble house is the well, from which the water is pumped to
a tub in one corner of the building, on each side of which
are erected benches of convenient hight on which the
workmen tie and wash the vegetables preparatory to
sending them to market.

CHAPTER VL

SOILS, DRAINAGE, AND PREPARATION.

In the course of an experience of nearly twenty years asa
market gardener, in the neighborhood of New York, I have
had, in the prosecution of the business, the opportunity
of reclaiming large tracts of very different varieties of soil.
Some of these, almost the first season, yielded a handsome
profit, while with others, the labor of years, and the ex-
penditure of large sums in extra manuring and draining,
have never been able to bring these uncongenial soils up
to the proper standard of productiveness.

On many occasions I have referred to the great impor-
‘tance of selecting a proper quality of soil for all garden-
ing and farming operations, and the fact cannot be too
often nor too forcibly impressed that success hinges more

EEE

SOILS, DRAINAGE, AND PREPARATION. 27

directly upon this than on anything else. Thousands are
every year ruined by a bad selection of soil. JI have
scores come to me inthe course of every season for advice
in this matter of soils, but in most instances the advice is
asked too late; the majority of the applicants having been
unfortunate enough to buy or rent land that they had
been led to believe was excellent, but only “run down.”
In my opinion this wide-spread notion of ‘“ exhausted
lands” is, toa great extent, a fallacy, and that most of
the lands said to be so exhausted never were good, and no
power on earth short of spreading a good soil over them
a foot thick, would ever make them good.

The practical test of the importance of a good soil for
market garden operations is clearly shown in a score of
cases in my vicinity. Wherever a man of ordinary indus-
try and intelligence has been fortunate enough to locate on
land that is naturally good his success has been certain,
while others that have not been able to procure such land
have had to struggle far harder for less returns; in some
few instances entire failure has been the case, for the rea-
son that the soil started on was unfitted for the purpose.

The variety of soil that we value above all others, is an
alluvial saline deposit, rarely found over more than a mile
inland from the tide mark. It is of dark heavy loam, con-
taining, throughout, a large mixture of decomposing oyster
and other shells; it averages from 10 to 30 inches deep,
overlaying a subsoil of yellow sandy loam. The next
best variety is somewhat lighter soil, both in color and
specific gravity, from 8 to 15 inches deep, having a similar
subsoil to the above. Then we have a still lighter soil, in
both senses of the term, in which the sand predominates

28 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

oyer the loam, and laying on a subsoil of pure sand; this
variety of soil is well adapted for Melons, Cucumbers,
Sweet Potatoes, Radishes, and Tomatoes, but is almost
useless for growing crops of Onions, Cabbages, or Celery.
We have still another kind of soil, which I place last, as
being of the least value for the purpose of growing vege-
tables; this variety, singularly enough, is found on the
highest points only, its color is somewhat lighter than the
variety first mentioned ; it is what is termed a clayey loam,
averaging ten inches in depth, under which is a thick stra-
tum of stiff bluish clay. With a subsoil of this nature, it
is almost useless to attempt to grow early vegetables for
market purposes.

I have just such a soil, as the last mentioned, thoroughty
drained three feet deep, the drains only 18 feet apart, and
yet, in ancther garden, that I work, having the two first
named soils and only one mile distant, manured and culti-
vated the same in all respects, fruits and vegetables are
ready from 5 to 10 days earlier. But for the succession,
or second crops, such as Celery, etc., this stiff cold soil
is just what is wanted; earliness with these is not the ob-
ject, and its “coldness” is congenial to the roots of the
late crop. But if selection can be made for general pur-
poses, choose a rather dark-colored loam soil, neither
“sandy” nor “clayey,” as deep as can be found, but not
less than 12 inches. If it overlay a sandy loam of yellow:
ish color, through which water will pass freely, you have
struck the right spot, and abundant crops can be raised
under proper management. When selecting land, do not
be deceived by any one who tells you, that if not natur-
ally good, the soil may be made so by cultivation and

SOILS, DRAINAGE, AND PREPARATION. 29

manure. These will help, certainly, but only as education

improves the shallow mind. Luxuriant crops can no more
be expected from a thin and poor soil—no matter how

much it is cultivated—than fertile ideas from a shallow

brain, educate it as you will.

DrarnacE.—Every operator in the soil concedes the
importance of drainage, yet it is really astonishing to ob-
serve how men will work wet lands year after year, wast-
ing annually, by loss of crops, twice the amount required
to thoroughly drain. A most industrious German, in this
vicinity, cultivated about 8 acres for 3 years, barely mak-
ing a living; his soil was an excellent loam, but two-thirds
of it was so “spongy,” that he could never get it plowed
until all his neighbors had their crops planted. Driving
past one day, I hailed him, asking him why he was so late
in getting in his crop, when he explained that if he had
begun sooner, his horses would have “bogged” so, he
might never have got them out again. I suggested drain-
ing, but he replied that would never pay on a leased place;
he had started on a ten years lease, which had only 7
years more to run, and that he would only being improv-
ing it for his landlord, who would allow him nothing for
such improvement. After some further conversation I

asked him to jump into my wagon, and in 10 minutes we
alighted at a market garden, that had 6 years before been
just such a swamp hole as his own, but now, (the middle
of May), was luxuriant with vegetation. I explained to
him what its former condition had been, and that the in-
vesting of $500, in drain tiles, would, in 12 months, put his
in the same condition. He, being a shrewd man, acted on
the advice, and at the termination of his lease, purchased

30 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

and paid for his 8 acres $12.000, the savings of six years
on his drained garden. I honestly believe, that, had he
gone on without draining, he would not have made $1200
in 12 years, far less $12.000 in 6 years. My friend esti-
mates his whole success in life to our accidental meeting
and conversation that May morning, and consequently
I have no stauncher friend on earth than he.

the modes of draining must be guided to a great ex-
tent by circumstances; wherever stones are abundant on
land, the most economical way to dispose of them, is to
use them for drainage. I have also used with great suc-
cess, in a wet sandy subsoil, where digging was easily
done, brush, from adjacent woods cut off, and trod firmly
2 feet deep in the bottom of drains 5 feet deep, overlaying
the brush with straw or meadow hay before covering in.
Drains so made, have answered well for nearly a dozen
years, and in situations where no other material offers,
they will at least answer a temporary purpose. But un-
questionably, when at all attainable, at anything like
reasonable cost, the cheapest and most thorough draining
is by tile. We use here the ordinary horse-shoe ‘tile; 3-
inch size for the laterals, and from 5 to 6 inch for the
mains. On stiff clayey soils, we make our lateral drains
3 feet deep, and from 15 to 18 feet apart; on soils with |
less compact subsoils, from 20 to 25 feet distant. We find
it cheaper to use the horse-shoe than the sole tile; in lieu
of the sole we cut common hemlock boards in 4 pieces;
‘ that is, cut them through the middle, and split these again,
making a board, thus cut, run about 50 feet; these are
placed in the bottom of the drains, and prevent the sag-
ging of the tiles in any particular spot that might be soft,

SOILS, DRAINAGE, AND PREPARATION. 31

(fig. 2). We are particularly careful to place, after set-
ting, a piece of sod, grass down, over the joinings of the

— eS SS <SS SSS —
SSS == Ss

Fig. 2.—HORSE-SHOE TILE.

tiles, to prevent the soil from getting in and stopping up
the drainage.

The manner of constructing stone drains, is governed
by the character of the stone on hand; if round, they are
best made as rubble drains, (fig. 3); but if flat, which is
much the best, they are made as represented by fig. 4.

\\ AWK
Fig. 4—FLAT STONE DRAIN.

But in either case, the same care must be exercised in cov-
ering over the top, thoroughly, with sod, shavings, straw,
or some similar material, in quantity sufficient to prevent
the soil from washing in and filling up the cavity.
PREPARATION OF THE Grounp.— Assuming that the
ground on which the garden is to be formed is in sod, the

32 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

best time to begin operations is in September, October, or
November. If draining is necessary, that should be first
completed. Before the sod is plowed, it would greatly
assist its rotting, if horse manure can be obtained, to spread
it over the surface, to the depth of two or three inches. In
plowing the sod under, care should be taken to have it laid
as flat as possible; this can be best done by plowing shal-
low, and at this time there is no particular necessity for
deep plowing. After plowing, we find it advantageous to
flatten down the furrows, by running over with the back
of the harrow; this mellows the soil so that it fills up the
crevices left between the furrows, and hastens the de-
composition of the sod. If the plowing has been done
early enough in the fall, so that the sod has had time to
rot the same season, it will facilitate the operations of
next spring to cross plow and thoroughly harrow; but if,
too late, this had better be deferred until spring. After
the ground has been well broken up by this second plow-
ing and harrowing, it should again be manured over the
whole surface with rough stable manure, as much as can
well be procured; there is rarely danger of getting too
much, and the third plowing takes place, followed this
time by the subsoiler. I have always found it best, in
breaking in new ground, to crop with Potatoes, Corn, or
late Cabbages the first season,—it rarely indeed happens
that any amount of labor or manuring can so prepare the
ground, the first season, as to bring it to that high degree
of tilth necessary for growing garden vegetables as they
should be grown, and any attempt to do so, will result in
a meagre crop, which will not pay—at least in such dis
tricts as New York, where there is always abundance ot

SOILS, DRAINAGE, AND PREPARATION. 33

products of the first quality. It must not be expected
that the crops’ of Potatoes, etc., will give much profit
for this unusual outlay in preparation and manure, for
they certainly will not, and the beginner must be content
to wait for his profits until the second season; these are
certain to be realized if these preparations have been prop-
erly made, hence it will be seen the necessity for capital in
this business, for the returns, though highly remunerative,
tre not quick.

CEEA PTE Week

- MANURES.

The quantity, quality, and proper application of ma-
nures, is of the utmost importance in all gardening opera-
tions, and few have any conception of the immense quantity
necessary to produce the heavy crops seen in our market
gardens. Of stable or barn-yard manure, from 50 to 100
tons per acre is used, and prepared, for at least six months
previously, by thorough turning and breaking up to pre-
vent its heating unduly. The usual method is to have the
manure-yard formed in a low part of the garden, but if
there is no natural depression, one may be made by dig-
ging out from 18 to 24 inches deep, and enclosing it by a
fence about 6 feet in hight. The wagons are driven along-
side, and the green manure thrown into the enclosure,
care being taken to have it spread regularly; hogs are
usually kept upon the manure in numbers sufficient to
break it up, they being fed in part by the refuse vege-
tables and weeds of the garden.

The manure of horses is most valued, as we consider it,
weight for weight, of about one-third more value than that

of cows or hogs; on stiff soils it is of mueh more benefit
34

MANURES. oD

asa pulverizer. There are many articles, the refuse of
manufactures, that are still wasted, that have great value
as manures. Among others, and of first importance, is
the refuse hops from the breweries. It is a dozen years
ago since they first began to be used in our gardens about
New York; at first they were to be had almost at
every brewery without cost, but the demand has so in-
creased, that the price to-day ranges even higher than that
of the best stable manure. Aside from its high fertilizing
properties, it is excellent for breaking up and pulverizing
the soil, and as a top-dressing or mulching, either to pro-
tect from the sun in summer, or from the frost in winter,
it has no equal. From my experience with this fertilizer,
I consider it to be of nearly double the value of that of
stable manure. It requires to be composted in the same
manner as other manure; it heats rapidly, and must be
either spread regularly over the hog yard, or else turned
once in two weeks to prevent “ fire-fang,” from violent
heating.

Another valuable refuse from our manufactories is the
shavings and scrapings from horn, or whale-bone manu-
factories. The best way to render these most available,
is to compost them thoroughly with hot manure, in the
proportion of one ton of shavings to fifteen of manure;
the heated manure extracts the oil from the shavings,
which is intermingled with the whole. I have on several
occasions seen the mixture of five tons of whale-bone
shavings with our ordinary stable manure, make $400 per
acre difference in the value of the crop; but of course
such manufactories are not common, and it is only in cer:
tain localities that this fertilizer can be had.

26 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

Another valuable fertilizer from manufactories is “ sugar
house scum,” which is composed largely of blood, char-
coal, and saccharine refuse; as it heats violently, instead
of being thrown in heaps by itself, it should be composted
with equal quantities of soil or muck, and turned frequent-
ly, so that the whole is thoroughly mixed; thus when
composted, it makes an excellent manure at twenty tons
per acre; it is best applied by lightly plowing, or deeply
harrowing-in.

Of concentrated manures, perhaps the best for general
purposes, is pure Peruvian guano; this for general crops,
when used without the addition of stable manures, is put
on at the rate of from 1000 to 1200 pounds per acre; it is
first pounded to powder so that it can be regularly sown
over the surface, after plowing; it is then thoroughly har-
rowed in, and the crop is sown or planted at once. In my
experience, the next best concentrated fertilizer is bone-
dust, or flour of bone; in experiments last season, with
our crops of cauliflower and cabbage, we applied it in
the same manner as guano, but at the rate of nearly 2000
pounds per acre, and it gave most satisfactory results, sur-
passing those of guano, where that had been used at the rate
of 1200 pounds per acre. In applying manures to the
soil, we have long ago discovered the great importance of
an alternation of different kinds; when I first began busi-
ness as a market gardener, I had opportunities of getting
large quantities of night soil from the scavengers of Jersey
City; this was mixed with stable manure, charcoal, saw-
dust, or any other absorbent most convenient, and applied
so mixed at the rate of about 30 tons per acre. The
erops raised with this manure were enormous, for two or

MANURES. sir

three years, but it gradually began to lose effect, and in
five years from the time we began to use it, it required
nearly double the weight of this compost to produce even
an average crop. I then abandoned the use of night soil
and applied refuse hops instead, at the rate of about 60
tons per acre, with marked improvement; but this was
for the first and second years only, the third year showing
a falling off About this time our prejudices against the
use of concentrated manures for market gardening began
to give way, and at first we applied guano together with
manuie at the rate of 300 pounds per acre, which we
found to pay; and the next season, guano was used at the
rate of 1200 lbs. per acre, with very satisfactory results,
Since then, our practice has been a systematic alternation
of manures, which I am convinced is of quite as much
importance to the production of uniform crops of first
quality, as is the alternation of varieties of the different
kinds of vegetables.

It is a grave blunder to attempt to grow vegetable
crops, without the use of manures of the various kinds in
about the proportions I have named. I never yet saw soil
of any kind that had borne a crop of vegetables that
would produce as good a crop the next season without the
use of manure, no matter how “rich” the soil may be
thought to be. An illustration of this came under my
observation last season. One of my neighbors, a market
gardener of nearly twenty years’ experience, and whose
grounds have always been a perfect model of productive-
ness, had it in prospect to run a sixty-foot street through
his grounds; thinking his land sufficiently rich to carry —
through a crop of Cabbages, without manure, he thought

38 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

it useless to waste money by using guano on that portion
on which the street; was to be, but on each side sowed
guano at the rate of 1200 pounds per acre, and planted
the whole with Early Cabbages. The effect was the most
marked I ever saw; that portion on which the guano had
been used sold off readily at $12 per hundred, or about
$1400 per acre, both price and crop being more than an
average; but the portion from which the guano had been
withheld, hardly averaged $3 per 100. The street occu-
pied fully an acre of ground, so that my friend actually lost
over $1000 in crop, by withholding $60 for manure. An-
other neighbor, whose lease had only one year to run, and
who also unwisely concluded that it would be foolish to
waste manure on his last crop, planted and sowed all with-
out it; the result was, as his experience should have taught
him, a crop of inferior quality in every article grown, and
loss on his eight acres of probably $2000 for that season.

CHAPTER VII

IMPLEMENTS,

The most important implements in use in the vegetable
garden are the plow and harrow, which should be always
used, to the exclusion of the spade or digging fork, when-
ever it is practicable to doso. No digging, in the ordi-

Mca UN

Fig. 5.—ALLEN’S CYLINDER PLOW.

nary way, can pulverize the soil so thoroughly as can be
done by the plow and harrow, nor no trenching much sur-
pass in its results that done by thorough subsoiling. Fig.
5 represents the plow in use by the market gardeners, and
known as Allen’s Patent Cylinder Plow. So superior are
its pulverizing powers to those of the spade, that we know
of no market gardener who would allow his grounds to
be dug, even if it were done free of cost.
39

40 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

Miner’s Gold Medal Subsoil Plow (fig. 6) is the best
subsoil plow we know of. It involves new principles and
accomplishes the work of stirring, loosening, aérating, and

Fig. 6.—SUBSOIL PLOW.

draining the soil beneath the furrow of the common plow,
lifting and breaking (but not turning) the subsoil to the
depth of 15 to 20 inches, as may be desired. On very stiff
soils we use the subsoiler once in two years; on lighter
soils not so often, although if time would always permit
there is no doubt but that it would be beneficial to use it
whenever plowing is done.

The harrow in use is rather peculiar in style, but is best
suited for garden work ;
er cgi 34. it contains i ai forty

- teeth about 10 inches
- long; these are driven

through the wood-work,

leaving 5 or 6 inches

Fig. 7.—GARDEN HARROW.

of the sharpened end
on the one side and from 14 to 2 inches of the blunt end
on ihe other, as shown in fig. 7. After the ground has

ae ee ee ne eT eee Oe nen ee Oe ee ee See es

tl ati “Som

Ste

Pe

s

SESS oe ng game eine Y

IMPLEMENTS. Al

been thoroughly pulverized by the teeth of the harrow, it
is turned upside down, and “ backed,” as we term it; the
short blunt teeth further breaking up the soil and smooth-
ing it toa A ay condition to receive the seeds or plants.

But there are many spots in the gar
den that it is impracticable to plow,
such as our frames, borders, and oc:
casionally between rows where the
space is too narrow
for a horse to walk;
such places must

be dug, and here

we use the Dig-

ging Fork, repre-

sented by fig..8, in

preference to the
spade. Its prongs
enter the soil more
easily than the
; blade of the spade,
Fig. 8.—_nIaerse rorx. and by striking the
soil turned over, with the back of the
fork, it pulverizes it better than can
be done by the blade of the spade.
Still there are many operations in the

Fig. 9.—aMEs’ No. 2
garden, such as the digging up of SPADE.

roots, earthing up of Celery, etc., for which the spade is
indispensable. For such purposes, the one represented
by fig. 9, and known as “ Ames’ No. 2, Plain-back,” we
find the best.

42 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

For stirring between narrow rows of Cabbage, Celery,
etc., we use a small one-horse plow before using the culti-
vator; this is represented by fig. 10, and is known as the
Skeleton Plow. Following this is our main implement

» Nem gf ACL EN EOE si

a
AX

Fig. 10.—SKELETON PLOW.

for cultivating between rows, which is simply a triangu-
lar adjustable Harrow, represented by fig. 11. This
implement we prefer to any variety of cultivators we
have ever used, on ground where there are no weeds,
: (and weeds are rarely al-
lowed to grow in our
market gardens), as its
teeth sink from three to
== four inches deep if kept

= sharpened; when extra

“Fig. fae sari. depth is wanted, a weight

is put on to sink it deeper.. In all hoeing operations by
hand, the steel pronged Hoe, fig. 12, is used in prefer-
ence to the old-fashioned blade hoe; yet, superior as
this implement is to the blade hoe, it is not more than

IMPLEMENTS. 43

six years ago since it came into general use. A man can
do full one-third more work with it,
do it better, and with greater ease,
than with the blade hoe; true, it is
not so good in cutting over weeds,
but weeds should never be seen in
a garden, for whether for pleasure or
profit, it is short-sighted economy to
delay the destruction of weeds until

they start to grow. One man will hoe
over, in one day, more ground where Fis: 1%.—PRonGED HoE.

' the weeds are just breaking
through, than six will, if they
be allowed to grow six or eight
inches in hight, to say noth-
ing of the injury done to the
ground by feeding the weeds in-
stead of the planted crops. An-

other benefit of this early extir-

pation of weeds is, that taken

in this stage, they of course nev-

er seed, and in a few years they

are almost entirely destroyed,

making the clearing a much sim-

pler task each succeeding year

Another tool used in place of
the hoe, is the steel Rake, fig. 13,
which we use in various sizes,

— =

Fig. 13.—stren RAKE. from 8 inches to 20 inches in
width. Nearly all our first “hoeing” is done with these ;
that is, the ground is raked over and levelled in from two

44

GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

to three days after planting ; this destroys the germs of the
weeds; in sy five to ten days, according to the state of

Hie 14.—scUFFLE
HOE.

the weather, the ground is again gone
over with the rakes. Weare no believ-
ers in deep hoeing on newly planted or
sown crops, it is only when plants begin
to grow that deep hoeing is beneficial.

For using between narrow rows of
crops, just starting from the ground,
the push or Scuffle Hoe, (fig. 14), is a

| most effective tool; we use them from 6

to 12 inches wide; they require to be

iy always about 3 inches narrower than

the rows; thus, in rows 9 inches apart,
we use the 6-inch hoe.

The Clod Crusher, fig. 15, an imple-
ment much used in England, is of great
value in pulverizing the surface of
rough heavy soils, following after the
harrow; on light soils, that pulverize

sufficiently with the harrow, it is not necessary.

Fig. 15,—cLOD CRUSHER.

OO ee Ec ee eee ee ae ae

or.

C1 eee el

IMPLEMENTS. 45

Another indispensable implement is the Roller, fig. 16;
it is of great importance not only in breaking lumpy soil,
but in firming it properly around newly sown seeds, be-
sides, the ground leveled by the roller is much easier hoed
than if the surface were uneven or irregular. The roller
we use is made of hard
wood, and is 5 or 6 feet
long, and 9 inches in diam-
eter. The roller is bored

though its whole length,
and through this hole is put
a bar of 2-inch round iron.

This bar gives the neces-
sary weight, and its projecting ends afford points to
which to attach the handle.

The Double Marker, fig. 17, is used to mark 6 or 8 lines
at once, as may be required ; the spaces between the teeth
being 12 inches on one
side, and 9 inches on
the other. Where rows
are required only of
these widths, every row

is of course planted, 22===
but many of our cropsre- —
quire wider rows, thus, Fig. 17.—DOUBLE MARKER.

with the 12-inch marker, we plant our early Cabbages at
24 inches apart, the intervening rows being planted with
Lettuce at the same time; or with the narrow side of
the marker, every row, 9 inches apart, is planted with
Onion sets, or in such a crop as Beets, every alternate
row only is used, making the rows 18 inches apart. The

46 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

manner of using the marker will readily suggest itself.
A line being stretched tightly to the required length, the
outer tooth is set against it and steadily drawn to the end,
returning, the outer row forms the guide for the marker,
and so on until finished. The marker is usually a home-
made implement, of wood, but it answers rather better to
have the teeth made of iroit, scooped, something like a
common garden trowel. }

The Market Wagon (figure 18) is made after various
patterns in different sections of the country; that shown

in the cut is the kind used by us, and is usually drawn
by one horse, it is strongly made, weighing about 1400
pounds, and is capable of carrying from 2000 to 3000
pounds.

The Seed Drill, fig. 19, next page, is used in sowing large
field cfops of Onions, Carrots, Turnips, etc., and can be
adjusted to suit all sizes of seeds. It is, however, more
an implement of the farm than the garden, and rarely
used in small market gardens, most cultivators deem.
ing it safer to sow by hand. Sowing by hand requires
more than twice the quantity of seed than when sown by
the drill, but the crops of our market gardens are too im-
portant to run any risk from such small considerations of

IMPLEMENTS. AY

economy. The greater risk in thinly sown crops being
from destruction by insects, frost, or the thin sowing not

Fig. 19.—PLANET SEED DRILL, NO. 2.
having strength enough to force through the soil in dry
weather.

The Dibber, fig. 20, is a very simple but indispensable
tool. It is of importance to have it made in the
manner represented here; it can be formed from
a crooked piece of any hard wood, and shod
with a sharp iron point, which gives weight to
it, besides it always keeps sharp. Dibbers are
too often made from an old spade or shovel
handle, when they are awkward and unhandy
affairs.

Fig. 90 Planting is an operation that often requires
DIBBER. the most rapid moyement to get a crop in at the
proper time, and the best appliances in working are not to
be disregarded. With a dibber of this style, an ex-

48 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

perienced planter, with a boy to drop the plants, as we
invariably practise, will plant from 6000 to 10,000 plants
per day, according to the kind of plant or condition of
the ground. I have on many occasions planted, in one
day, three acres of Celery, holding about 90,000 plants,
with ten men, each of whom had a boy, from ten to four-
teen years of age, to drop the plants down before him.
This plan of using boys is not generally adopted, but I
have repeatedly proved that, by thus dividing the labor,
a boy and a man will do more planting than two men
would if plar-ting singly, and each carryirg his own plants.

CELA EW. Xs

THE USES AND MANAGEMENT OF COLD
FRAMES.

We use cold frames for preserving Cauliflower, Cab:
bage and Lettuce plants during the winter, and the for-
warding of Lettuce and Cucumbers in spring and summer.

To make the matter as clear as possible, we will suppose
that the market gardener, having five or six acres of land,
has provided himself with 100 of 3x6 feet sashes. The
Cauliflower, Cabbage, or Lettuce plants, which they are
intended to cover in winter, should be sown in the open
garden from the 10th to the 20th of September, and when
of sufficient size, which they will be in about a month from
the time of sowing, they must be replanted in the boxes
or frames, to be covered by the sashes as winter advances.

The boxes or frames we use, are simply two boards, run-
ning parallel, and nailed to posts to secure them in line.
The one for the back is ten or twelve inches wide, and
that for the front seven or eight inches, to give the sashes,
when placed upon them, pitch enough to carry off rain,

and to better catch the sun’s rays. The length of the
49 aye

50 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

frame or box may be regulated by the position in which
it is placed; a convenient length is fifty or sixty feet, re-
quiring eighteen or twenty sashes.

Shelter from the north-west is of great importance, and
if the ground is not sheltered naturally, a board fence six
feet in hight is almost indispensable. The sashes should
face south or south-east. Hach sash will hold five hundred
plants of Cabbage or Cauliflower, and about eight hun
dred of Lettuce. These numbers will determine the proper
distance apart, for those who have not had experience.
It should never be lost sight of, that these plants are al-
most hardy, and consequently will stand severe freezing
without injury; but to insure this condition they must be
treated as their nature demands; that is, that in ‘colt
weather, and even in clear winter days, when the thermom-
eter marks: 15 or 20 degrees in the shade, they must be
abundantly aired, either by tilting up the sash at the back,
_or better still, when the day is mild, by stripping the sash
clear off. By this hardening process, there is no necessity
for any other covering but the sash. In our locality, we
occasionally have the thermometer from 5° to 10° below
zero for a day or two together, yet in all our time we have
never used mats, shutters, or any covering except the
glass, and I do not think we lose more than two per cent.
of our plants. Some may think that the raising of plants
in this manner must involve considerable trouble, but when
they are informed that the Cabbage and Lettuce plants so
raised and planted out in March or April, not unfrequently
bring a thousand dollars per acre before the middle of
July, giving us time to follow up with Celery for a second
crop, it will be seen that the practice is not unprofitable.

USES AND MANAGEMENT OF COLD FRAMES. 51

But we have not yet done with the use of the sashes;
to make them still available, spare boxes or frames must
be made, in all respects similar to those in use for the Cab-
bage plants. These frames should be covered up during
winter with straw or leaves in depth sufficient to keep the
ground from freezing, so that they may be got at and be
in condition to be planted with Lettuce by the end of Feb-
ruary, or the first of March. By this time the weather
is always mild enough to allow the sashes to be taken off
from the Cabbage and Lettuce plants, and they are now
transferred to the spare frames to cover and forward the
Lettuce. Under each sash we plant fifty Lettuce plants,
having the ground first well enriched by digging in about
three inches of well rotted manure. The management of
the Lettuce for heading is in all respects similar to that
used in preserving the plants in winter; the only thing to
be attended to, being to give abundance of air, and on the
occasion of rain to_remove the sashes entirely, so that the
ground may receive a good soaking, which will tend te
promote a more rapid and luxuriant growth.

The crop is fit. for market in about six weeks from time
of planting, which is always two or three weeks sooner
than that from the open ground. The average price for
all planted is about $4 per hundred at wholesale, so that
again, with little trouble, our crop gives us $2 per sash in
six weeks.

I believe this second use of the sash is not practiced
outside of this district, most gardeners having the opinion
that the winter plants of Cauliflower, Cabbage, or Lettuce,
would be injured by their complete exposure to the
weather at as early a date as the first of March. In fact,

52 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

here we have still a few old fogies among us, whose timid-
ity or obstinacy in this matter prevents them from making
this use of their sashes, which thereby causes them an an-
nual loss of $2 per sash, and as some of them have over a
thousand sashes, the loss is of some magnitude.

In my own practice, I have made my sashes do double
duty in this way for fifteen years; the number when I
first started being fifty, increasing to the present. time,
when I have inuse fifteen hundred sashes. Yet in all that
time I have only once got my plants (so exposed) injured,
and then only a limited number, which I had neglected to
sufficiently harden by airing.

We have still another use of the sashes to detail. Our
Lettuce being cut out by middle of May, we then plant
five or six seeds of the Improved White Spine Cucumber,
in the centre of each sash. At that season they come up
at once, protected by the covering at night. The sashes
are left on until the middle of June, when the crop begins
to be sold. The management of the Cucumber crop, as
regards airing, is hardly different from that of the Lettuce,
except in its early stage of growth it requires to be kept
warmer; being a tropical plant, it is very impatient of be-
ing chilled, but in warm days airing should never be neg-
lected, as the concentration of the sun’s rays on the glass
would raise the temperature to an extent to injure, if not
entirely destroy the crop. This third use of the sashes ]
have never yet made so profitable as the second, althoug!
always sufficiently so to make it well worth the labor.

There are a few men here who make a profitable busi-
ness from the use of sashes only, having no ground except
that occupied by the frames. In this way the winter crop

Tp RA

USES AND MANAGEMENT OF COLD FRAMES. 53

of Cauliflower or Cabbage plants is sold at an average-of
$3 per sash, in March or April; the Lettuce at $2 per sash »
in May, and the Cucumbers at $1 per sash in June, making
an average of $6 per sash for the season; and it must be
remembered that these are wholesale prices, and that too,
in the market of New York, where there is great compe-
tition. There is no doubt, that in hundreds of cities and
towns of the Union, the same use of sashes would double
or treble these results.

Cold frames are also used for sowing the seeds of Cab-
bage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce, instead of hot-beds; if
the frames are closely shut up and covered at night by
mats, the plants will be but little later than those from the
hot-beds, and are raised with far less trouble. In sections
of the country where these plants cannot be set out before
May, it is useless to raise them in hot-beds. On the other
hand, in the Southern States, where in the months of Feb-
ruary and March there are no frosts, by adopting the same
care in covering up at night, the seeds of Tomatoes, Pep-
pers, and Egg plants, and the sprouts from Sweet Pota-
toes, can be forwarded with much less trouble in the cold
frames than in the hot-bed.

Iam sometimes asked the question, ‘‘ How much freezing
and thawing plants of Lettuce, Cabbages, etc., will stand
without being destroyed.” .I have always taken the
ground that the freezing and thawing, instead of being
injurious, is a necessity for their safety. In doing so I
know I run in direct opposition to a large majority of my
brethrea, but the experience of nearly a quarter of a cen-
tury, yearly increasing in extent, confirms me that I am
correct, and I am further assured in my opinion by know-

54 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

ing that there is not a market gardener in this vicinity but
whose practice in the management of cold-frames is the
same as my own, though if the question was asked some
of them if thawing and freezing did not injure plants, the
answer might be in the affirmative, so universally has the
dogma been accepted.

Again: ‘“ How long can frozen plants be kept from the
light under shutters? ”—Much would depend on atmos-
pheric conditions. If the temperature ranged at night
from 25° to 32°—merely sufficient to mildly freeze the
plants—they might remain in good condition for four or
five weeks, but if subjected to a zero atmosphere, without
change, as many days might prove injurious. A very
common practice with cold-frames in this vicinity is, if the
plants are frozen in the frames previous to a snow storm
we allow them to be covered up by the snow often for two
or three weeks, provided that it is deep enough to protect
the plants from severe frosts, as in that condition the
plants, though excluded from light, are subjected only to
a temperature of from probably 25° to 32°, which simply
keeps them dormant. But if, on the other hand, the
plants are not frozen when snow covers the glass, it
becomes necessary to remove the snow in three or four
days after falling, else the plants will become blanched,
and made so tender that they will be unable to resist severe
weather that may follow.

Os Wn. W aiid Hae. @

FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF
HOT-BEDS.

Although we do not consider hot-beds so convenient or
even économical in the long run as the forcing houses,
elsewhere described, yet, as beginners in the business are
usually not over-supplied with means, and as hot-beds are
to be had at much less first cost than the forcing houses,
we give a description of their formation and management.
The most convenient sash for the hot-bed is the 3x 6 foot
sash, made out of 1} inch pine, costing here, at present
prices, when painted and glazed, about $4 each. This is
almost double the cost of what they were before the reigy
of high prices; but as we get corresponding rates for the
commodities raised under them, we must not complain.

The frame for the hot-bed is usually made movable, in
lengths which three sashes will cover, making, when com-
plete, a box-like structure, 9 feet long, (the width of 3
ashes, 3 feet wide), and 6 feet wide, (the length of the
sashes) ; at the bottom or lower part, the plank should be

15 or 18 inches high; the back or top, 24 inches; so that,
55

56 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

when the sashes are placed on, it will give them the neces-
sary angle to receive the sun’s rays and throw off the rain.
The sashes should be made as tight fitting as they will
easily work, and the plank, forming the sides of the box,
should be high enough to cover the thickness of the sash,
n order to prevent the cold air from penetrating. This is
one style of hot-bed frame, and the one most commonly
used in private gardens; but in our market gardens,
where a large surface is used, our necessities compel us to
adopt a far more economical mode, both in the cost of the
frame work and heating material. This is done somewhat
after the manner adopted for Cold Frames. Parallel ex-
cavations are made, usually in lengths of 60 feet, 24 feet
deep, and 6 feet wide; the sides of these pits are boarded
up with any rough boarding, nailed to posts, and raised
above the surface 18 inches at the back, and 12 inches at
front. Strips are stretched across, on which the sashes
rest, wide enough to receive the edges of the two sashes
where they meet, and allow of a piece of about an inch
between them, so that the sash can be shoved backward
and forward, and be kept in place in giving air, ete.

The heating material is next in order; this should be
horse dung, fresh from the stables, added to which, when
accessible, about one-half its bulk of leaves from the
woods. The manure and leaves should be well mixed and
trodden down in successive layers, forming a conical heap,
large enough to generate fermentation in severe. winter
weather. Care’must be taken that the material is not al-
iowed to lie scattered and get frozen, else great delay will
ensue before heat can be generated. A few days after the
pile has been thrown together, and a lively fermentation

FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF HOT-BEDS, 57

has taken place, which will be indicated by the escape of
steam from the heap, it should be again turned over and
carefully shakeu out, formed again into a pile, and left un-
til the second fermentation occurs, which will be usually
in two or three days. It may now be placed in the pit,
being regularly beaten down by the back of the fork, and
trodden so that it is uniformly of the same solidity, and to
the required depth, 2} feet. The sashes are now placed
on the frames, and kept close until the heat rises; at this
time a thermometer, plunged in the heating material,
should indicate about 100 degrees, but this is too hot for
almost any vegetable growth, and besides the rank steam
given out by the fermentation, should be allowed to escape
before operations of sowing or planting begin. New be-
ginners are very apt to be impatient in the matter of hot-
beds, and often lose the first crop by planting or sowing
before the violent heat has subsided, which it generally
will do in about three days, if the heating material has been
sufficiently prepared. As soon as the thermometer in the
frame recedes to 90, soil should be placed on, to the depth
of 6 or 8inches. This soil must be previously prepared,
of one-third well rotted manure, (or, if procurable, rotted
refuse hops, from breweries), and two-thirds good loam,
spread regularly over the surface of the hot-bed.

We use hot-beds for various purposes. One of the
most important uses is the forcing of Lettuce; this is
planted in the hot-beds, (from plants grown in the cold
frames), 50 under each sash, the first crop by 2nd week in
January ; it is covered at night by straw mats, and is usu-
ally marketable by the first of March. At that season Let-
tuce is always scarce, and will average, if properly grown,

58 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

$8 per 100, or $4 per sash. The crop is cut out by the
first week in March, giving plenty time to plant the same
hot-bed again with Lettuce; but now it is no longer a hot-
bed, for by this time the heat from the dung is exhausted,
and it is treated exactly as described in the chapter on
Cold Frames.

Another use for the hot-bed is the raising of Tomato,

\

and Egg,and Pepper plants. The bed should be prepared
for these, not sooner than the 2nd week in March, and of
temperature, about the same as before described. In sow-
ing, it is well to cover the seed with some very light
mold; nothing is better than leaf mold and sand, pat-
fing it gently with the back of the spade. From the time

==

Fig. 21.—WATERING POT.

the seed is sown, attention to airing, during the hot part
of the day, and covering up at night, is essential, and also
that the soil be never allowed to get dry. The watering
should be done with a very fine rose Watering Pot, (fig.
21), and with tepid water. The temperature at night may
range from 55 to 65°, and during the day from 70 to 80°.
As soon as the seedling plants are an inch or two high,
which will be in 5 or 6 weeks, they must be taken up and
re-planted in a more extensive hot-bed, for they now re-
quire room, ‘Tomatoes should be planted of a width to
give 75 or 100 in each sash. Pepper and Egg Plants do

FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF HOT-BEDS. 59

better if planted in small flower pots, (38-inch), as they are
more difficult to transplant; they may now also be kept
a little closer in the hot-bed than the Tomatoes, as they
require more heat. After transplanting, great care is nec.
essary that they always be immediately watered, and
shaded from the sun until they have struck root, which
will be in 2 or 8 days after transplanting.

The hot-bed is also the medium for procuring us Cab-
bage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce plants, for early outside
planting, when not convenient to winter them over
as described in the uses of cold frames. The seeds of
these are sown about the last week in February, are treated
in all respects, as regards covering up at night, as the To-
matoes, etc.; but being plants of greater hardiness, re-
quire more air during the day. They will be fit to plant
in the open garden by the middle of April. The beds
they are taken from are usually employed for the re-plant-
ing Tomatoes, which it is not safe to plant, in the open
ground here, before the middle of May.

Sweet Potato plants are almost universally raised in hot-
beds, but as this is a plant that luxuriates in a high tem-
perature, the hot-bed should not be formed to start them
until the middle of April. The soil should bea mixture of -
sand and leaf mold, laid on of the usual thickness on the
hot-bed, 6 inches. The tubers are placed closely together
and the same sandy compost sifted over them to the depth
of two inches; some split the large ones lengthwise, and
place them flat side down; they should not be watered
until they start to grow. They are fit to plant out about
tix weeks after starting.

Two most essential points in working hot-beds are, in

60 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

covering up at night, and in giving air during the day.
It often happens that a few mild nights in March or April
-delude us into the belief that all the cold weather is over,
and the covering up is in consequence either carelessly
performed or abandoned. Every season shows us scores
of victims to this mistake, who, by one cold night, lose
the whole labors of the season. It is always safest to
cover up tender plants, such as Tomatoes, Sweet Pota-
toes, etc., until the 10th of May in this latitude, and the
more hardy plants, such as Cabbage, to the Ist of April,
when raised in hot-beds; even if there is no danger from
freezing, it will give a more uniform temperature, and con-
sequently conduce to a more healthy growth. The want
of close attention in airing is equally dangerous; often an
hour’s delay in raising the sashes, will have the effect of
scorching up the whole contents of the hot-bed, and ir-
recularity of airing will always produce “drawn” and
‘spindling plants, even when they are not entirely killed.
The thermometer is the only safe guide, and should be
recularly consulted, and whenever it indicates 75°, it is safe
to admit less or more of the outer air, proportioned of
‘course to the condition of the atmosphere; if there be
bright sunshine, and cold wind, very little will suffice; if
calm, mild, and sunny, admit larger quantities,

CovVERINGS FOR PROTECTION AGAINST Frost.—To cover
up hot-bed sashes, we use either light pine shutters or
straw mats; the shutters are made the exact size of the
sash; there is no necessity of their being more than half
an inch in thickness, as that is quite as effective in keeping
out the cold as two inches would be, and they are much
cheaper and more convenient to handle. Straw Mats are,

d
‘
P
r
7
‘
4
‘
J

FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF HOT-BEDS. 61

however, by far the warmest covering, and in hot-bed cul-
ture are almost indispensable. They are always made at
home, during wet days or stormy weather in winter. The
manner of making them is very simple, and will readily
be learned at the first attempt. The “uprights,” (or
warps), are formed of five strands of a tarred string,
known as “marline;” these are tightly strained 10 inches
apart, by being attached to five strong nails at bottom of
a wall, corresponding with the same number 7 feet from
the bottom. Against these strings (beginning at the bot-

tom) are laid small handfuls of rye straw, the cut side

ij il AM ie

Fig. 22,—MAKING A STRAW MAT.

out, as long and straight as can be procured; this is se-
cured to the uprights by a lighter kind of tarrea string,
by taking a single turn around the upright and the straw, .
and so continued until the mat is finished. Some use a
frame to which the strings, forming the warp, are attach-
ed, as shown in fig. 22. This allows the operator to have
his work upright or horizontal, as may be most convenient.
Two workmen will make about five mats in a day.

62 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

When finished, the mats should be 7 feet in length and
41 feet in width, two being sufficient to cover three sash-
es. The reason for having them made one foot longer
than the sash is, that there may be 6 inches to overlap at
top and bottom, which are the most necessary points to
secure from frost. In making these mats they may be
constructed of sedge from the marshes, or salt meadow
hay, when rye straw cannot be procured. It is important,
however, that they may be made as light as possible, one
inch in thickness being quite sufficient. By care in hand-
ling them, these mats will last for six or eight years.

1
*
~
a
’

OCEHAPPHR: - 2b

FORCING PITS OR GREEN-HOUSES.

_ Forcing pits and green-houses of the style about to be
described, whenever the greater expense in their erection
isnot a consideration, are, in our experience, far superior,
and in the course of five or six years, more economical for
all purposes of forcing or forwarding vegetables, than the
hot-bed or cold frame. Figure 23 represents the end sec-
tion and ground plan of the style we have in use, and
which may be adapted to any plant that requires artificial
heat and protection of glass.- The pits, represented by
this plan, are 100 feet in length, and each 11 feet wide in-
side. The heating is accomplished by one of Hitching’s
Patent Boilers, (C), heating about 1200 feet of 4-inch pipe.
The glass roof, (Z’), is formed of portable sashes, 6x3 feet ;
each alternate sash is screwed down, the others being
movable, so as to give abundance of air. The fixed roof
plan of building green-houses or pits, is, in our climate, a
great mistake, in my opinion, unless in large graperies
or conservatories, where architectural beauty is of more

consideration than the health of the plants. The mov-
63

G4 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

Fig. 23. -— END SECTION AND GROUND PLAN OF FORCING PITS HEATED
BY WATER PIPES.

FORCING PITS OR GREEN-HOUSES. 65

able sash is elevated, to admit air, by an iron bar,
15 inches long, attached to the sash by a staple; in-
to this bar is punched three holes, so to regulate the
admission of the air as required. When the sash is
shut down, the bar is hooked on to a pin which se;
cures it in place, so that the sash cannot be moved by
wind. I am thus particular in describing what may seem
a simple matter; but this system of airing is not common,
and we made some stupid blunders before we hit on our
present plan, which is cheap, simple, and very effective.
The movable sash is not hinged at the bottom, but is held
in place by two small plates of iron screwed on the gutter
plate. The ridge-poles are cut out of the shape shown
at J, and the sashes lie on the shoulder. The inttrior
arrangement of the pits will be easily understood by the
end section. 6, shows the bench or table as it is complet-
ed; this shows the boxing-in of the pipes, (D), to give
“bottom heat” to the cuttings, seeds, or plants, that are
placed on the bench, but on the sides of the bench, along
the walk, one plank is hinged throughout the house, so
that it may be let down when required, and permit the es-
cape of heat into the pit. The walks through the house,
(ZH), are 2 feet wide. A brick shed, (4), covers the
boiler pit, (Z”), and is attached to the north end of the
pits. Besides breaking the wind at this vulnerable point,
we find this shed a most excellent place for many purposes,
as it is kept from freezing by the heat that escapes from
the boiler pit, which would otherwise be lost. This heat
may be rendered to a very profitable account in forcing
Mushrooms or Rhubarb, if desired for that purpose.

The system of attaching three pits together, if not new

66 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

in this country, is certainly new in its almost universal adop-
tion by commercial gardeners, in all houses erected dur-
ing the past five years in the neighborhood of New York;
it has great advantages over the detached system, be-
ing less expensive in heating, more saving of space, and,
above all, far more economical in cost of construction.
I prefer having only three together, for the reason that,
when we have the snow to clear away, it 1s quickly done by
being shoveled from the

Ny
“wAttLTHN
ea |

two valleys or furrows
over the ridges; although

we have one grower in

this neighborhood who
) has 12 connected houses,
and finds but little trouble
with snow; our snows

being mostly from the
North, the shed breaks
them off in a great meas-
ure, and what blows over,

blows mostly off through

the valley between the
sashes. The water from

the gutter is led into a
== cistern, at the south end

Fig. 24.—WEst’s FORCE PUMP. of the green-houses, of a
capacity of not less than 3000 cubic feet, if 5000, all the bet-
ter; to this is connected a West’s Force Pump, fig. 24, with
150 feet of 14-inch hose, and to the end of the hose is attach-
ed a heavy sprinkler. One man pumps, and another regu-
lates the water and sprinkles it over the plants. My estab-

FORCING PITS OR GREEN-HOUSES. 67 -

lishment in 1866 contained over an acre of glass, and yet,
by this labor-saving arrangement, all the plants were
thoroughly drenched with water by two men in four
hours. Before adopting this method of watering, at least
four of the hands were employed the whole day dur-
ng the spring months in watering, and then the work
was not done half so well. There is nothing that I have
ever done connected with horticultural operations, that
has been so entirely satisfactory as this system of watering.

In these pits may be propagated and grown Grape
Vines, Roses, and green-house and bedding plants of every
description, in the best possible manner. But as our pres-
ent purpose is only with vegetables, I will endeavor to de-
scribe our mode of operations with some of these. As
Lettuce, from the great quantities consumed in all large
cities, is now, and’ will be likely to be, one of the most
profitable vegetables to force, we begin, for our first crop,
by sowing the seed about the first of September, in the
open ground, of the Tennis Ball, or Black-seeded Butter
sorts. These are planted on the benches of the forcing
house in five or six weeks after, at about six or eight
inches apart each way, on well enriched soil, placed on the
benches to the depth of five or six inches, At this season,
no “forcing” is required, in fact, if the sashes could be
taken completely off until the middle of November, so
much the better, but when it is not convenient, the sashes
should be kept raised to admit air, night and day, until
frosts begin to be severe; then they should be shut up at
night, but no fire heat should be applied until the weather
has been severe enough to indicate 32 or 34 inside the pits,
and even then very slight, for if thev can be brought to

68 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

maturity at this season without the temperature exceed-
ing forty degrees at night (by fire heat), the crop will
be all the better. The great thing in forcing all plants of
this hardy nature being to avoid a high temperature.

Of late years Lettuce plants, when grown under glass,
have occasionally become affected by a species of mildew
or rust which, beginning in the centre of the plant quickly
spreads over the whole and destroys it. Iam not certain
of the cause, and can offer no cure—except to advise that
great care should be taken to have the plants grown freely,
and without any sudden check by chilling or by the
extremes of drought or moisture. We find in the culture
of plants under glass, that some species are particularly
sensitive to such checks—some varieties of the Rose, for
instance, if, when in a particular condition of growth, the
temperature for a few hours is reduced from 65° to 40°, at
night, or if a frosty south-east wind is allowed to play on
the leaves for even ten minutes, or if allowed to dry so
that the plant wilts, mildew will to a certainty be developed
in twenty-four hours. The Verbena, Heliotrope, and
Petunia, when subjected to ill usage, become badly rusted.
Therefore I am inclined to think that the Lettuce disease
is also caused by some ill usage at some period of its
growth, for we find that it is rarely seen when the crop is
grown in the open ground in spring or summer. The
preventive suggested is that plants to be forced should be
prepared so carefully that no sudden check is given—and
also that the soil used on the benches be fresh, and the
manure used be thoroughly rotted and well mixed through
the soil. Fumigating with tobacco should also be done
twice each week, beginning the very day the plants are

FORCING PITS OR GREEN-HOUSES. 69

planted inthe bench. In fumigating we use refuse tobacco
stems, about 2 pounds (dry) for every 1,000 square feet of
glass, damping however before using, so as to get the
greatest amount of smoke.

The first crop is ready about December 15th and is cut
off and sold in two weeks; the soil on the benches is
‘slightly manured, dug up, and again planted (from plants
sown in cold frames, or in boxes in the same pit) about No-
vember Ist. This second, or winter crop, requires more
attention in growing, both in firing, watering, and airing,
as it matures about March Ist, and consequently has had
to be cared for during the coldest part of the year. The
third crop, treated exactly as the second, is planted soon
as the other is cut off, and matures about May Ist. We
now vary the use of the pit, by planting at distances of
about three feet apart along the centre of the bench,
plants of the White Spine Cucumber, from seed sown
about April first, in a corner of the pit that has been
kept closer and warmer than that for the Lettuce; these
are planted in pots about 3 inches in diameter, and by the
time the benches are cleared in May, are fine strong plants,
that givesa full crop during the month of June—fully a
month sooner than from the open ground. The combined
value of these four crops will average about $500, for an
erection 100 feet in length by 11 feet in width. The esti
mated expense of cultivation is: —

Interest on $1000, cost of construction, at 10 per cent...... $100
UE ERIS a sere ett a ogc /d, Sins 8 rales Riv a sick alba owen 6 WSS 50
MINEO SEG (25s a arctan sabnwenetcicuectte cee cade 100
$250

ct tat ie hc sa ia Ma wen we 500

EE Se 2 eS $20

vi) GARDENING FO R PROFIT.

These forcing pits are likewise used for starting seeds
of Tomato, Egg, Pepper, Cabbage, and Cauliflower, and
sprouting Sweet Potatoes, which is done with far less risk
and ina much better manner, than can be accomplished
by the hot-bed. One great advantage is, that by being
able to walk inside of them, these pits are accessible in
all weathers, while with the hot-bed or frames, we are in
winter often debarred from examination for whole days
together.

At present prices, in this locality, these pits cost
about $10 per lineal foot, everything complete put
up in the way indicated by the plan in a plain sub-
stantial manner. But those whose circumstances do
not admit of the expense of heating by hot water,
(which is nearly half the cost of the whole), may put up
erections of exactly the same character, and heat them by
the common smoke flue, at an expense of from five to
six dollars per lineal foot, in the manner shown by the
plan, fig. 25. It will be seen by this sketch, that two
flues only are used for the three pits, each passing first up
under the bench on the outside houses, is carried along
the end and returned through the middle houses; this
equalizes the temperature in all three, for the outside
houses get only one run of the flue, but it being directly
from the fire, gives about the same heat to the outside
houses as two runs in the middle house, which being at a
greater distance from the fire, are much colder. Three
attached houses, heated thus, should not be over 50 feet
long, in this latitude. Southward they may be 60 feet,
and northward 40 feet. Peculiarities of locality have
much to do with the heating; in positions particularly

FORCING PITS OR GREEN-HOUSES.

|
@
|
@
3
Z
|
7)
|

by

SS SSE SSS ASS
RESESY

RESES
SELES

Fig. 25.—END SECTION AND- GROUND PLAN OF FORCING PITS
HEATED BY FLUE. - i

ve

72 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

sheltered from the northwest, the same amount of flue
will heat 60 feet, quite as easily as in exposed places it
will heat 40, The proper way of constructing the furnace
and flue, is of importance enough to require a description.
The size of the furnace doors should not be less than 1
foot square, the length of the furnace bars, 2 feet; the
furnace should be arched over, the top of inside of the arch
at least 18 inches from the bars. The flue will always
“draw” better if slightly on the ascent throughout its en-
tire length; it should be elevated, in all cases, from the
ground, on flags or bricks, so that its heat may be given
out on all sides. The inside measure of the flue should
not be less than 8x 14 inches; if tiles can be conveniently
procured, they are best to cover with, but if not, the top
of the flue may be contracted to 6 inches, and covered
with bricks. Care should be taken that no woodwork
connect with the flue at any place. I have known cases
where woodwork has caught fire at 70 feet from the fur-
nace, after the house had been in operation for three years ;
but an unusually strong draft intensified the heat,and the
charred timber ignited and totally destroyed the green-
house and its contents. In the plan and section on the
opposite page, A, is the shed, enclosing the furnaces CC;
from which pass the flues, D, in the direction shown by
the arrows to the chimnies, Z. The benches are not
shown here, but they are arranged as in fig. 23.

i
4
5

CEA DP EW Rac oF),

SEEDS AND SEED RAISING.

If there is one thing of paramount importance in
vegetable gardening, it is purity of seed; and for this
reason every seed that it is pracucable for us to raise
for our Own use, we grow, no matter what the cost
may be. On one occasion, our indispensable Wake-
field Cabbage seed failed, from some peculiarity in the
season, and there was no alternative but to buy from
the seed stores; every store in New York was tried, but
not a seed proved to be of the Wakefield, as we know it.
One old gentleman, who always provided for such emer-
gencies, had a two-year old reserve supply. I offered him
$50 per pound, but could not procure an ounce from him.
He too well understood the state of the case, and planted
his whole ground with this variety, and as he got in ahead '
of all by nearly ten days, made a little fortune by the
operation. That was about ten years ago; but I have
never known a Jersey gardener to be out of this variety

of seed since, and not know where to get it. On another
occasion one pound of seed, purchased as Silesia Lettuce,

and planted in my forcing frames, proved to be the curled
73

74. GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

India Lettuce, useless, except for our hottest summer
weather, and perfectly worthless for forcing. This was
the most serious loss from bad seeds J ever encountered,
amounting to at least $1000. Last year, quite a number
of my neighbors lost heavily in purchasing seed of the
erect variety of Thyme, instead of the spreading variety;
the crop being all but worthless in consequence. No
wonder then that the market gardeners are so skeptical
about using seeds except those of their own raising, or
from those of their immediate neighbors, in whose knowl-
edge and honesty they have entire confidence.

There is but little new to say of the manner of raising
seeds; the importance of selecting the purest specimens
of each variety, and of keeping plants that are of the
same families, as far distant apart as the limits of the
ground will admit, is now well understood. It is not
practicable, however, to raise all the seeds wanted in our
vegetable gardens, in our climate, and consequently we
have to rely on importation for seeds of Brocoli, Cauli-
flower, some varieties of Cabbage, Radishes, Peas, ete.
But the great majority of seeds used are raised here, our
climate being particularly well adapted for maturing them.
In the raising of market vegetables, near large cities, the
usual practice is, for each grower to grow only a few vari-
eties, and these of the sorts most profitable to his location or
soil. For example, we of New Jersey, in the immediate
vicinity of New York, grow Beets, Cabbages, Cauliflow-
er, Cucumbers, Lettuce, Radishes, and Turnips, as a first
trop; followed by Celery, Thyme, Sage, Brocoli, and late
Cabbage, as a second crop. Of these varieties we save
all the seeds that it is practicable for us to raise; while

SEEDS AND SEED RAISING. 15s

the more Southern counties of the State, where crops ma.
ture ten or twelve days earlier, but the distance greater
from market, the bulkier and cheaper articles are not
grown, and only the more portable and (when early) valu-
able kinds are raised, of which Tomatoes, Melons, Peas,
Kidney Beans, Early Turnips, and Beets, are the staple
articles. There, also, the growers know well the necessity
of sowing only such seeds as are grown by themselves, or
from sources that they know to be reliable.

Seed growing, as practised by market gardeners, is on
much too small a scale to make it profitable; in fact, there
is hardly a seed we raise, but costs us much more than what
we could purchase it for from the seedsmen. Seedsmen are
supplied by regular seed growers, who make a special
business of it; they are located principally in the East-
ern States, and devote many thousands of acres of the
finest lands to the purpose. They are a highly responsi-
ble class of men, who thoroughly understand the business,
and are now successfully competing with the English and
French growers, from whom, only a few years ago, nearly
all our seeds were imported. Just so soon as our seeds-
men are able to get their entire supply from reliable men
here, there will be no necessity for the market gardeners
continuing to be their own seed growers; they would also
greatly conduce to the increase of their business by taking
the trouble to ascertain the varieties most suitable for
market purposes. Above all, no seed should ever be sold
without its germinating qualities being thoroughly tested.
Neither should any gardener risk his crop without testing
the seed, unless he has implicit confidence in the source
from whence it has been purchased,

76 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

It will be understood, that of all annual plants, such as
Beans, Corn, Cucumbers, Egg Plants, Lettuce, Melons,
Peas, Radishes, Tomatoes, etc., the seed is saved the sea-
son of planting, and should be always taken from those

first maturing, if earliness is an object. The seeds of bi- —

ennial vegetables, such as Beets, Carrots, Celery, Cab
bages, Onions, Leeks, Parsley, Parsnips, etc., are raised by
selecting the best specimens’ from those preserved over
winter, planting them out in good soil on the opening of
spring, at distances such as are recommended for their
growing.

DvuRATION OF GERMINATION IN SEEDS.—There are very
few seeds that will not germinate as freely the second year
as the first, if properly kept in a cool place, and not ex-
posed to either a too drying or too damp an atmosphere.
With the exception of Parsnips, Onions, and Leeks, I would
just as confidently sow seed two years old, as when fresh
gathered; but there is a limit to the vitality of seeds, va-
rying much in the different species.

Among those, only safe for two years, are: Beans and
Peas, of all kinds; Peppers, Carrot, Egg Plant, Okra,
Salsify, Thyme, Sage, and Rhubarb.

Those safe for three years: Asparagus, Endive, Lettuce,
Parsley, Spinach, and Radish.

Those safe for four years: Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cab-
bage, Celery, and Turnip.

Those possessing the greatest vitality are: Beet, Cu-
eumber, Melon, Pumpkin, Squash, and Tomato; the time
ranging from five te ten years. i

We often find this knowledge very valuable; for exam-
ple, in procuring the stock of a seed satd to be good, of a

i
—e— = eT eee Tee ’

re ee a re

SEEDS AND SEED RAISING. Oh

variety that does not seed the season it is marketable,
such as Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, or Celery, we pro-
cure enough to last at least two seasons; the first season
only a little is sown, to test the merit of the variety, (for
we are never incautious enough to risk a full crop with one
experiment); if it proves valuable, we have enough in re
serve to sow for a full crop, knowing that it is sure to
germinate. This was particularly the case with our New
Dwarf Celery; on the recommendation of a friend I im-
ported ten pounds of the seed, but doubtful of how it
would suit our market, only as much was sown as would
furnish a few hundred, plants. These showed so much
superiority, in all respects, to the tall varieties that we had
been growing, that the following season I put in half my
crop with the dwarf seed. The thing was entirely new
in our market, and so much superior, that it sold for prices
that would seem incredible. My ten lb. bag was not half
exhausted, and the next season I planted my whole crop,
fourteen acres, containing nearly half a million roots, and
made one of the best hits I ever made in gardening. But
by this time my neighbors began to take an unusual in-
terest in my Celery crop, and I could monopolize the va-
riety no longer.

A frequent source of complaint is the fact of seeds
failing to germinate during long continued dry weather,
and it is very important that the gardener should always
apply common-sense to his work, and not simply follow
routine, for what wil suit for one condition of soil or
atmosphere, would be unnecessary or even wrong for
another. - I will give acase to illustrate. About the fifth
of May of 1871, I sowed a large patch of open ground

78 | GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

with Celery seed, and another with Cabbage seed. The
soil was in fine order, and the beds after sowing, were
raked; the Celery with a fine steel rake, the Cabbage with
a large wooden rake, which covered the seed of each to
the regular depth. The weather was dry, with indications
of its continuing so, and after sowing I had both the Cab-
bage and Celery beds rolled heavily, leaving, however, a
strip of each unrolled, so that I could clearly show to
some of my young men what the result of this omission
would be if dry weather continued. Had a heavy rain
fallen within a day or two after sowing, it would have
compacted the soil and produced the effect of rolling it.
But we had no rain for three or four weeks, and a burning-
hot atmosphere, passing through the shallow, loose cover-
ing of the seeds, shrivelled and dried them up so that it
was impossible they could ever germinate. This little
experiinent resulted exactly as any one having experience
in seed-sowing knew it must; our crop of Celery and Cab-
bage plants were as fine as need be on the rolled bed,
while not one seed in a thousand of the Celery, and not
one in a hundred of the Cabbage started in the strips
when the soil was left loose. |

In the sowing of Cauliflower, Cabbage, or Lettuce in
September, the same precaution had better be used. But
in small beds, such as are usually taken for these, if a
roller is not at hand, after raking the beds, the soil should
be firmly patted with the back of the spade; this not
only produces quicker and more certain germination, but
it leaves the surface of the bed smooth, so that the plants
come up straighter than if the beds were left rough. We
consider the practice of soaking seeds worse than useless.

CHAPTER XII.

HOW, WHEN, AND WHERE TO SOW SEEDS.

—

As seed sowing is the starting point of cropping, a
thorough knowledge of the conditions necessary for the
germination of the different varieties, will go far towards
putting the tyro in gardening well on the way to success.
The very general want of knowledge in this matter is too
often the cause of much undeserved censure upon the
seedsman, for ‘in nine cases out of ten the failure is not
with the seeds, but results from the ¢éme or manner of
planting. When the owner of a garden sends his order for
seeds to the seedsman, it is generally a complete list of all
he wants for the season. They are received, and the in-
teresting operation of sowing is begun: first in a hot
bed, if he has one, often as early as the first week in Feb
ruary, (a month too soon by the way), and in go indis
criminately, at the same date, and under the same sash
his seeds of Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce, and Egg Plant,
Peppers and Tomatoes. Yet even in the waning heat of
this early hot-bed, where a thermometer would possibly
not indicate more than fifty degrees, he finds in a week or so

79

80 GARDENING FOR PROFIT,

his Cabbage, Lettuce, and Cauliflower “ coming through”
nicely, but as yet no Egg Plants, Peppers, or Tomatoes. He
impatiently waits another week, makes an examination, and
discovers that instead of his Tomatoes and Egg Plants be-
ginning to vegetate, they are commencing torot. It isnow
plain to him that he has been cheated; he has been sold old
seed, and if he does nothing worse, he for ever after looks
upon the seedsman he has patronized as a venial wretch,
destitute of principle and honesty. But he must have
Tomatoes, Peppers, and Egg Plants, and he buys again,
from another seedsman, warranted honest. He renews his
hot-bed, it is now a month later, and a bright March sun,
with milder nights, gives him the proper temperature in
his hot-bed—70 or 80°, and his eyes are at last gladdened
by the sprouting of the troublesome seed. April comes
with warm sunshine, inviting him to begin to “ make gar-
den” outside. He has yet the balance of the original lot of
seeds that he bought in February. But as he is still entire-
ly befogged about the cause of his failure in the first hot-
bed, he begins his open ground operations with little confi-
dence in his seeds, but as he has got them, they may as well
be tried. And again he sows in the same day his Peas and
Lima Beans, Radishes and Pumpkins, Onions and Sweet
Corn. Hardy and tender get the same treatment. The re-
sult must of necessity be the same as it was in the hot-bed;
the hardy seeds duly vegetate, while the tender are of course
rotted. This time he is not surprised, for he is already
convinced that seedsman No. 1 is a rascal, and only won-
ders how any of his seeds grew at all, so he again orders
from seedsman No. 2 for the articles that have failed.
Here circumstances continue to favor the Tagter, for by

HOW, WHEN, AND WHERE TO SOW SEEDS. 81

this time the season has advanced in its temperature and
the seeds'duly vegetate. Every farmer knows that, in
this latitude, he can sow Oats or Wheat in March or April,
but that if he sows his Corn or Pumpkins at the same time,
they will perish; this he knows, but he may not know
that what is true of the crops of the farm, is equally true
of the garden. Hence the importance of a knowledge of
the season when to sow vegetable seeds, or set out plants.

A decision was not long ago rendered in one of the
Philadelphia courts against the claim for damages made
by a market gardener, who brought suit against a well-
known seedsman of that city for having sold him seed of
Early York Cabbage that “run to seed.”

The ventilation of such a matter is exceedingly in-
structive to those engaged in gardening operations, as
was shown by the facts elicited on the trial, the gist of
which was, that the prosecutor had sown ‘the Cabbage
seed on the 5th of September instead of the 15th, and that
error, combined with an unusually mild and growing fall,
practically lengthened the season, so that the Cabbage
plants became “annuals”—running to seed within the
year of sowing—rather than forming heads and acting
as “)biennials,” as was expected of them. Now, just here
an excellent lesson comes in with another vegetable.
Most of our so-called scientific gardeners are English,
Scotch, Irish, or Germans; they come here, most of them,
with a thorough contempt for our rougher style of doing
things (a practical style born of our necessities in the
higher cost of labor); and it is next to impoggible to con-
vince one in a dozen of them, that there is anything in
horticultural ‘matters here, that he needs to be informed

82 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

of. Accordingly, if he wishes to raise Celery, he starts
his seed in a hot-bed in February, just as he would have
done in England, and is astonished to find in July that
instead of forming a thick and solid stalk, as it would
have done there, it spindles and runs to seed. If his
knowledge of the art had been based on common-sense,
instead of the blind routine practice acquired in a colder
climate, he would have known that our season—from April
ist to July Ist—would sum up nearly the same mean of
temperature here as it would there, from February 1st to
July Ist; and hence it was not only unnecessary here,
but dangerous to the welfare of the crop, to sow such
biennial plants as Celery in any other place but in the
open ground, and that not before April. It was just such
an error that the market gardener made, who sued the
seedsman above alluded to. He had been following
likely in the English or German method, and paid the
penalty not only of losing his crop, but losing his law-
suit, by not adapting his practice to our conditions of
temperature. As the matter of sowing the seeds of Cab-
bage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce to make plants to winter
over in cold-frames, is one in which there is a wide-spread
interest, I may state that the time of sowing in fall, ina
country having such a wide area and difference of latitude
as ours, is somewhat difficult to fix upon; but taking the
latitude of New York as a basis, the safest time we have
found to sow is from the 10th to the 15th of September.
Of late years we have inclined rather more to the latter
date, and have even sown as late as September 30th,
with excellent success, in warm, well- sheltered positions,
in a rich, well-prepared soil,

HOW, WHEN, AND WHERE TO SOW SEEDS. 83

Each kind of seed has certain limits of temperature, be-
low or above which it can not germinate. Below the
minimum heat it remains dormant, above its maximum
limit, its vitality is destroyed; between these two points
is found the temperature most favorable to rapid germina-
tion. Practically it suffices to divide our garden seeds in
two classes: natives of temperate and natives of sub-
tropical countries,

The temperature best fitted for the germination of seeds
of the leading kinds, will be best understood by the tabu-
lar form given below.

Vegetable seeds that may be sown, Vegetable seeds that may be sown in
in this latitude, from the middle of | the open ground, in this latitude, from
March to the end of April. Ther- | the middle of May to the middle of
mometer in the shade averaging 45 | June. Thermometer in the shade av-

degrees. eraging 60 degrees.
Beet. Lettuce. Lima Beans. Water Melon.
Carrot. Parsley. Bush Beans. Squash.
Cress. Parsnip. Cranberrry Pumpkin.
Celery. Onions. Pole Beans. Tomato.
Cabbage. Peas. Scarlet Run- Nasturtium.
Cauliflower. Radish. ner Beans. Okra.
Endive. Turnip. Sweet Corn. Cucumber.
Kale. Spinach. Musk Melon.

It will be understood that these dates refer only to the
latitude of New York, farther South, operations should be
begun earlier,—farther North, later. So much for the time
of sowing; I will now refer to suitable soil and the man
ner of sowing.

Tue Cuoice or Sor, when choice can be made, is of
great importance, the best being a light soil, composed
of leaf mold, sand, and loam; the next substitute for
Igaf mold being well decayed stable manure, or better

84 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

yet, decayed refuse hops from the breweries, in short,
anything of this nature that will tend to lighten the
soil, the point to be avoided being a weight of soil,
either from the nature or quantity of it. The nature of
the soil is not of so much importance for the germinating
of large vigorous seeds, as Peas, Beets, Beans, Corn, ete,
But with the delicate, slow sprouting sorts, as Celery.
Parsnip, Egg Plant, or Peppers, it is of much importance
Seeds of nearly every garden vegetable should be sown in

rows; the distance apart, according to the variety, and the

depth proportioned to the size of the seed. No better infor
mation can be given in this matter, than the old rule of
covering the seed with about its thickness of soil, but this
should always be followed up by having the soil pressed
closely down. In our market gardens here, we invariably
have the ground rolled after sowing, or in frames or hot-
beds, where the roller cannot be used, we pat the soil even-
ly down with a spade after sowing. This may not be of
so much consequence in early spring, when the atmosphere
is moist, but as the season advances, it is of great im-
portance. I have seen many acres of Carrots and Parsnips
lost for want of this simple attention; the covering of the

seeds being loose, the heated air penetrates through, dry-

ing the seeds to shriveling, so that they never can vege
tate. My farmer readers, no doubt, have had plenty of
similar experiences with Turnips, where they have been
sown broadcast without rolling. Another advantage in
rolling after seed sowing is, that it leaves the surface
smooth and level, thereby lessening greatly the labor of
hoeing. Instead of adopting the questionable practice of
steeping seeds, preparatory to sowing in dry hot weather,

del,

2

)
)

CO ti ee ee, ee

ee

HOW, WHEN, AND WHERE TO SOW SEEDS. 85

we prefer first to thoroughly saturate the bed with water,
and after it has dried enough, so that it can be raked with-
out clogging, sow the seed. It is much better to do this
than water after the seed has been sown, as it has a ten-
dency in most soils to bake the surface.

Sowine in Hor-seps.—It would lengthen this chapter
_ too much to give extended directions for sowing seeds in
hot-beds. I will briefly say, that after the hot-bed has
been formed—say by the first week in March, let soil, of
the kind recommended, be placed on it six inches deep, in-
to which plunge a thermometer three or four inches, and
when the temperature recedes to '75 degrees or 80 degrees,
you may then sow, giving air in mild weather as soon as
the seeds begin to vegetate, covering up warmly at night
by mats, straw, or hay. But many that may read this
never saw a hot-bed, and are perhaps never likely to have
one: to such I would say that there is an excellent substi-
tute on hand in most dwellings, in the kitchen or base-
ment windows, facing South or Hast, inside of which is a
temperature usually not far from that required for the
vegetation of seeds, and where plants from seeds of the
early vegetables, or tender plants for the flower border, may
be raised nearly as well, and with far less attention, than in
a hot-bed. ‘Instead of hot-beds, we use our green-houses
for the purpose, using shallow boxes in which we sow the
seed; these are made from the common soap box, cut in
three pieces, the top and bottom forming two, and the
middle piece, bottomed, making the third; these form
cheap, convenient boxes. Fill these nearly full with the
soil recommended, and after sowing, press nicely dewn
level, and make the surface soil moderately firm; keep

86 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

moist, in a temperature in the window of from 60 to 70
degrees, and your little trouble will soon be rewarded.

In this way seeds should be sown thickly, and after they
have made the first rough leaf, should be again planted
out into the same kind of box, from one to four inches
apart, according to the kind, and placed in the window to
receive similar treatment as the seeds; but as the season
advances, in mild days they should be set out of doors,
care being taken that they are brought in at night, and
that the soil in the boxes is never allowed to get dry.

I know what is usually the first thing the novice in gar.
dening does if he gets any choice seed or favorite cutting ;
he has some how got the belief that there is some hidden
virtue in a flower pot, and he accordingly sows his seed
or plants his cutting in a pot, but in nine cases out of ten
they are destroyed, or partially so, by the continued dry-
ing of the soil in the porous flower pot. If early in the
season, let delicate seeds be sown in the kitchen or sitting
room window, in the boxes as recommended, or if late, in
the open border; but seeds should never be sown in pots,
as even in experienced hands they are much more trouble-
some and uncertain than boxes.

RoraTion oF Crops.—Cultivators of the most limited
experience soon discover that the same kind of crop can-
not be grown on the same ground for many years in suc-
cession, without deterioration. A great many theories
have been advanced assigning causes for this, but they are
as yet far from satisfactory, and as this is not a book of
theory but of practice, I will not further allude to them.
The following general rules will be found useful as a
guide : — .

HOW, WHEN, AND WHERE TO SOW SEEDS. &7

Ist. Plants, of the same family, should not be planted to
succeed each other.

2d. Plants, which occupy the ground for a number of
years, such as Rhubarb and Asparagus, should be succeeded
by annual plants. :

dd. Crops, grown for heads, such as Cauliflower, Cabbage.
etc., should be succeeded by crops grown for their bulbs or
roots.

It is hardly practicable to vary crops according to any set .
rule, the demand in different localities for certain articles
being greater than in others. Generally variety enough is
demanded to allow of sufficient rotation. Our system of
heavy manuring, deep culture, and taking two crops from
the ground each season, seems to do away in a great meas-
ure with the necessity for systematic rotation, which would
often be found to be very inconvenient. The crops of all
others, that we find most benefitted by change are, the
Cabbage tribe, together with the allied Turnip, Radish, etc.,
while on the other hand we have grown Onions successively
on the same ground for ten years —the last crop just as
good as the first; but as a rule of safety, vary whenever you
can.

Quantity oF SEEDS PER Acre.— The quantities given
below are somewhat higher in some kinds than the usual
estimates, our experience showing us that in weak vegetat-
ing seeds, such as Parsnips, Carrots, etc., it requires num-
bers, particularly on stiff soils, to force through plants
enough to form a crop; more seed is required when sown
during the dry hot months of summer, than if sown in the
cooler and moist seasons of spring and fall, hence quantities
are regulated accordingly.

88

GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

QUANTITY OF SEED REQUIRED TO SOW AN ACRE.

TSGHNE, OWT L. occas sea teas in GPM. cos ove vcgieetee ¢ 14 bushels,
RATA PEOUOs. ols afe,c soe ae eee oe IN HWS. oss ss econ 10 to 12 quarts.
REBUN Gor dy wis gies) cased aie ere SOOO PAS Ss os wees eis 5 to6 pounds.
CAD Dare he 28h Sate se sarees in beds to transplant....4 pound.
BERG se eiere eis ate elas alee ie PAPHLG. J ssa ba aioe 3 to 4 pounds.
OID hin pea e een keee Samet ae in Dilles. s.% racer 8 to 10 quarts.
COP ator ISORIN EY)... cams ane weitere eae ee ee ore 5 bushels.
RUUD coe ancteteve ee eats eee aia ta Ha ak eee erate oe 2 pounds.
Lea ie ic hensrosaterats oid ices ates ae prdadeastiy.;<teceane noes 2 bushel.
Melon, ((OEUsIE) i is.s 3. s5 veers ee BO) US cee ete 2 to 3 pounds.
Melon, CVISEOMc harew Seeew oer in hills <2" feet 4 to 5 pounds.
PMTs woe ten te ae Ree PM Ore. J. tee 5 to 6 pounds.
Onion, (for'sets).... 66.55.0585 AMAT S sic cena 30 pounds.
RU RC SEER eos 6 spice beam nde ipo hy th: ace 6 to 12 bushels.
RABI ira icicle tarvycanites o's b's teavdritige. "cee. 4 to 6 pounds.
BWM te ee se a sa'etaia te het ole ees WcPTis es cee teen 13 bushels.
GB reste Al tare. sew on dean aie antes DIOGUCHSE foi. soto eee: © bushels.
Papers (Ut CUDETS) me... 2.%, ove ss clea ece's be Ge eae 10 bushels.
RPO EIRADN sx 3 he datas whic wales Wid AS 322 hase sce = 8 4 to 6 pounds.
TOA Sis ciethet ees 's 2 Gain cs Marvels? oe ts es 8 to 10 pounds.
RRC Ree! ite Sic“ dis Gpeietvoreele eine whale aT CNS sere eer. wh 8 to 10 pounds.
SSCL by Ppa y= sn gS oS ge [2085 bas: aerate 8 to 10 pounds.
Seristehl 7 sete ane sae « Bs IS @THNS os ae wd ee 10 to 12 pounds.
Squash, (bush varieties)...... im halle: shea ee 4 to 6 pounds.
Squash, (runving varieties)....in hills............ 3 to 4 pounds.
4 LISTON ILE OSes Nes eae ene REAR to transplant. ..s0. 22.523 + pound.
TTS 50 a sh A oe AD. OMS oi atte 2 to 2 pounds.
GI 0 2 Peete gS TPS ee 6 fen broutleastw.3.) cies 3 to 4 pounds.
BSCE se cece pects twic haem shes broadcast. ......... 2 to 5 bushels,
PLOW COM 2: 50... w cee sis oes IMDS so sistgeueaieten 8 to 10 quarts.
Blover-(Red) alone... ceise, wn se Oe niece eae 15 to 20 pounds.
BAO Wer WHILE) MONG nec eso sistance welts ol 12 to 15 pounds.
lever (AIK) ALONE nec. 5 ccs - sirens cee ee hoae 8 to 10 pounds.
Clover (iicern) SOE... «i sss > semis Sele nae ae eed 20 pounds,
SESS (IROOM LAB WEL) oon oc wots Nore shale ante Anne heen ak 3 bushels,
EES ie Ss apes er broadeast.........% 2 to 3 bushels,
SG ASS Saar oeeae e broadcast......... 1a to 2 bushels,
PPCM OM insets icin sg oan als cronees brbadcast......... -.2 to 3 bushels.
ANCA cikiwl dminhs 010 6s <i0'abei oily broadeast...:<.... 13 to 2 bushels,
PEITHOTILY, IONIC 5% sa sicicc sas suis hos vie tt Caen pee eee = bushel.

HOW, WHEN, AND WHERE TO SOW SEEDS.

89

MIXTURE FOR SEEDING MOWING LANDS.

Clover, PMNS Ga A Ais ary ob 'ews ole onic 10 pounds Clover.
Timothy, og Ae, SB ee I eee 5: = bushel Timothy.
Red-Top, GAOL oon e eine Ws, co oes eect 1 bushel Red-Top.

QUANTITY OF SEEDS REQUIRED FOR A GIVEN NUMBER OF PLANTS, NUM-
BER OF HILLS, OR LENGTH OF DRILL.

Asparagus, 1 oz..... 60 ft. of drill.
Re ea). as 50 ft. of drill.
Beans, Dwarf, 1 git..100 ft. of drill.
Peeps, Pole, lgt......... 150 hills.
Carrot. 1oz-........ 150 ft. of drill.
Cucumber, 1 oz...........50 hills
I ee ie cicletaty Ct dne es 200 hills

Dandelion, 1 0z....200 ft. of drill.

Endive, 1 oz........150 ft. of drill.
pEcen, F08...5.56<<.- 100 ft. of drill.
Melon, Water, 1 oz........80 hills.
Melon, Musk, 1 02z........ 60 hills.
ot 3 ae 40 ft. of drill.
prion | E Ofs. os. 100 ft. of drill.
Onion, Sets, 1 qt....40 ft. of drill.
Parsley, 1 oz........150 ft. of drill.

Parsnip, 2 oze0 2. 200 ft. of drill.
Peasy (que. ast.e4o 100 ft. of drill.
Bomrplcin, om: 2 7, ke 40 hills.
Radish, 1 oz...... .100 ft. of drill.
Salsify.-1 ofcs. 2238 70 ft. of drii

ppimach,.t ago 100 ft. of drill.

Squash, Early, 1 oz........50 hills.
Squash, Marrow, 1oz......16 hills.

Turnip, | oz: ~....:..150 fi. of drill
Cabbase; 207025 ..cc.< 2,090 planis.
Cauliflower, 1 0z......2,000 plants.
Celery 1 ae. . ines 3,000 plants.
Hee Plant. 1 07s... ace 1,000 plants.
Lettuce, 1.02....2225 5,000 plants.
Peppers) dae cscs. 25: 1,000 plants.
Lomato, lone. .'5 2. a5 1,500 plants.

THE NUMBER OF PLANTS, TREES, ETC., REQUIRED TO SET AN ACRE.

Distance. Number.
Coe a ieee ee 43,560
Oe 0 Or foes seks ese sek 19,360
1) POW ai ee a 10,890
REN CRIED ores o ccaclorice yo ss 6,970
Be TRE See acne nis as. oye vine 14,520

OS Oe 7,260
Geitaea ret fie. s 5. cs Sales cs pies 4,840
SG ee re 2,722
PL OE cs, vias fap abies ee 1,742

Distance. Number.
Gir by Gib. sce os oe 1,200
CERN OP dil) s05 ge ca. «cee aes 537
Pe EUeW DY Let Rta ss seo vie eet 302
ie fte Diy: UBF. os. «ieee ees 194
Pe i Dy Ib... .. cee 13
POEs Wy 200i <2 ecto 103
Pe EE, AY Da ax" aetna ae we 70
S0rie. BY oo tie ec tac coke tele 40
ASE. Vy AEE con ae seas - 27

CHAPTER iy

TRANSPLANTING.

TRANSPLANTING is an operation of great importance;
the condition of the plant, the state of the soil, and of
the atmosphere, have much to do with its success, inde-
pendently of the simple mechanical operation. It is not
very easy to instruct the uninitiated as to what the proper
condition of the plant should be; experience in this being,
as in everything else, the best teacher. Attention to keep-
ing the seed-bed clear of weeds, the “topping” of plants
when they get too tall, and careful digging up of them
so as to preserve the root fibres, will all greatly assist.
We cannot always get the soil in the proper condition
of moisture to receive plants at the time transplanting
shouldbe performed, but to make up for the want of mois-
ture, planting should be delayed always until late in the
afternoon, unless in cloudy weather. It is also of great
importance that the ground be freshly plowed; the moist
soil thus brought to the surface will induce the formation
of root fibres in one night, after which the plants are

comparatively safe; but if they be allowed to wilt before
90

TRANSPLANTING. 91

the new roots begin to be emitted, and contirred dry
weather ensues, then nothing will save them but having
recourse to watering, which should always be avoided if
possible. In planting, each man is provided with a boy, who
carries the plants in a basket, and whose duty is to drop
the plant on the line at the proper distance before the
planter. In planting, a hole is made by the dibber about
- the depth of the root; the plant being inserted, the soil is
then pressed close to the root, the hole thus made by the
displacement of the soil is again filled up by one stroke of
the dibber. In dry weather we still further firm the plant,
by each planter returning on his row, and treading the soil
around plants firmly with the feet. J am thus particular
in describing a simple matter, knowing well, that millions
of plants are annually lost by inattention to this firming of
the soil. The same rule is applicable to transplanting of
ali kinds, trees, shrubs, or vegetables. Instead of “ pud-
dling” the roots in mud, we prefer to keep the plants
dripping wet during the whole time of planting, so that
each plant, as it is put in the soil, puddles itself by the
particles of soil adhering to the wet root. Besides, the
leaves of the plant, being wet, will for some time resist
the action of the dry air.

Planting of Vegetable Plants.—A year or two ago,
about the middle of April, the snow, after its long ac-
quaintance with us during the past winter, intruded itself
again in the spring, and covered our newly-planted
gardens to the depth of several inches. Veteran tillers
of the soil could smile at this assault, knowing it to be
harmless. But correspondents, still young in the busi-
hess, wrote to me fearing their planted crops were ruined.

92 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

A snow, after planting in spring, I have never known
to injure plants of any kind, unless, indeed, it was heavy
enough to break them. The fear of snow and of the
slight late frosts often prevents the setting of such
plants as Cabbage, Lettuce, and even Asparagus, among
vegetables, and of Strawberries and other small fruits,
until the season is so far advanced that hot weather
comes on, starting the tops before the roots have had
time to get a foothold. There is rarely danger that such
hardy or halfhardy plants as we plant in spring will be
injured by any frost that may come after they are put out.
This opening up for spring work usually begins by the
end of March, here, and I have never yet seen plants in-
jured by frost after that time.

To give an idea what amount of cold Cabbage and Let-
tuce plants will stand without injury, I will relate an ex-
perience I had in my early days of market gardening. A
particularly mild spell in the latter part of February had
led us to believe that spring had come. Out went the
teams, and the ground was manured, ploughed, and
planted with Cabbage and Lettuce to the extent of two
acres, which was all finished up by the 26th of February.
It was my second year in the business. I was yet an in-
experienced hand, and my neighbors predicted that my
venture was a foolhardy one, and would result in total
loss, no one having ever before planted such crops in this
section at such an early season. But fortune favored me;
the weather continued mild long enough to allow the
plants to “strike root,” and though the thermometer
afterward marked as low as 15° above zero, and the
ground was frozen for full ten dayg so that it could not

TRANSPLANTING. 93

be again dug or ploughed, yet the wild venture proved a
success, and I had the satisfaction of having the first Cab-
bages from that February planting that were sold in
market. I never after had an opportunity of planting so
early, and would not do it if I had, for it was simply
favorable conditions that saved the crop. If the cold snap
had set in immediately after planting, there is but little
doubt the plants would have suffered injury. But the ex-
perience was valuable in showing what severity of frost
such plants would stand without injury. Much depends
on the condition of the plants; if taken from the hot-bed
or frame without being previously exposed, they might be
in condition to be as easily injured as a Tomato plant.

The past season I had the sashes taken off my entire
crop of Cabbage and Lettuce plants on March Ist (they
being hardened beforehand by ventilating), and never
covered them again. They were twice covered up with
snow, and the mercury several times marked only 20°
above zero. Yet we hardly ever before had finer plants.

The sashes so taken off—nearly 1,000 in number—were
used for our. flower business, but, had we desired it, they
might have been used on temporary frames, and grown a
crop of Lettuce which in five weeks from date of planting,
March 1st, would have easily given $3 per sash. I men-
tion these facts to give confidence to the hundreds now
engaged in market gardening, who, from dread of expos-
ing their plants in spring, not only do them an injury, but
lose the profit of a second use of their sashes. A third use
of sashes may be had in growing Tomato, Sweet-potato,
or Egg-plants, after the crop of Lettuce is sold, or for-
warding an early crop of Cucumbers or Melons.

CRAP Tih yaa

PACKING OF VEGETABLES FOR SHIPPING,

This is a matter for which it is not very easy to give
directions, as the distance, season, and articles to be packed
will greatly determine the manner in which it is to be
done; but a few general directions may assist the inex-
perienced.

The mode of packing during spring and summer is al-
most entirely the reverse of that practiced during autumn
or winter, for the reason that, when the temperature is
high, provision must be made in the package for the ad-
mission of air to prevent the articles from heating ; while
in cold weather, when there is but little danger from heat-

ing, but more to be apprehended from frost, close packages —

must be used accordingly.
As early vegetables are always shipped from a warm
climate to a colder one, at a season which, of course, must

be warm to mature them, open work baskets or slatted
boxes must be used. If barrels are used, care must be

taken that openings be made plentifully in the sides, so

that air may be admitted. For distances requiring a delay
94

ere

PACKING OFVEGETABLES FOR SHIPPING. 95

of more than forty eight hours in the transit, for most ar-
ticles, barrels are too large; boxes or baskets, one-fourth
the capacity.of a flour barrel, being safer. The articles
shipped in this manner from southern ports to northern
markets, are: Asparagus, Beans, Cucumbers, Lettuce,
Melons, Peas, Radishes, Tomatoes, and other summer
crops. Bulky articles, such as Cabbages, Beets, Sweet
Corn, Water Melons, Turnips, are often shipped loose on the
decks of steamers, sloops, etc.; but even then, care must
be taken that the heaps are not too large, else they may
beinjured by heating. The judgment of the shipper must
be exercised in respect to the article to be shipped. Articles
that lay close, will require to be shipped in smaller pack-
ages than those that lie so loosely that the air can pass
among them; for example, Melons may be safely packed
in a barrel, while, if Tomatoes were so packed, they would
be. utterly destroyed.

The winter or fall shipping of vegetables is the reverse
of the summer, for then we send from the North to the
South, our colder and damper atmosphere being more
congenial to the growth of late crops. Close packages
are now used, but still not too large; barrels being best
suited -to such articles as Beets, Carrots, Celery, Onions,
Parsnips, Potatoes, or Turnips, while Cabbages and Cault-
flowers may be shipped in crates or in bulks,

CHAPTER: XVI.

PRESERVATION OF VEGETABLES IN WINTER,

Our manner of preserving vegetable roots in winter is,
I think, peculiar to this district, and is very simple and
effective.

After taking up such crops as Beets, Carrots, Horse-
radish, Parsnips, Turnips, Potatoes, etc., in fall, they are
put in temporary oblong heaps, on the surface of the
ground on which they have been growing, and covered up
with 5 or 6 inches of soil, which will keep off such slight
frosts as are likely to occur until time can be spared to
put them in permanent winter quarters; this is done in
this section usually during the first part of December, in
the following manner: A piece of ground as dry as pos-
sible is chosen; if not naturally dry, provision must be
made to carry off the water, lower than the bottom of the
put. The pit is dug out from three to four feet deep,
about six feet wide, and of the length required; the roots
are then packed in in sections of about two feet wide
across the pit, and only to the hight of the ground level.

Between the sections, a space of half a foot is left, which
96

eee ee error

PRESERVATION OF VEGETABLES IN WINTER. 97

is filled up with the soil level to the top; this leaves the
pit filled up two feet wide in roots, and half a foot of soil,
and so on until the whole is finished. The advantage of
this plan is, that it is merely a series of small pits, holding
from three to five barrels of roots, which can be taken out
for market without exposing the next section, as it is
closed off by the six inches of soil between. Also, that
we find that roots of all kinds keep safer when in small
bulk, than when large numbers are thrown into one pit
together. In covering, the top is rounded so as to throw
off the water, with a layer of from 18 inches to 2 feet of
soil. This way of preserving roots, with perhaps the ex-
ception of Potatoes, is much preferable to keeping them
in a cellar or root house, as they not only keep fresher, re-
taining more of their natural flavor and color, but far
fewer of them are lost by decay than when exposed to
the air and varying temperature of a cellar. Unmatured
heads of Cauliflower, or Broccoli, however, are best matur-
ed in a light cellar or cold frame, by being planted in close
together; in this way, good heads may be had to Janu-
ary. Cabbages are preserved very simply; they are left
out as late as they can be pulled up by the roots, in this
section about the end of November, they are then pulled
up and turned upside down—the roots up, the heads
packed close together, in beds six feet wide, with six feet
alleys between, care being taken to have the ground lev-
elled where the cabbages are placed, so that they pack
nicely. . They are left in this way for two or three weeks,
or as long as the ground can be dug between the alleys,
the soil from which is thrown in on the beds of Cabbage,
so that, when finished, they have a covering of four or six

98 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

inches of soil. This is not enough to cover the root how-
ever, which is left partly exposed, but this is in no way
injurious. Some prefer to cover them up at once by plow-
ing a furrow, shoveling it out wide enough to receive the
heads of the Cabbages, then turning the soil in on the
heads, and so continuing until beds of six or eight feet are
thus formed. This plan is rather more expeditious than
the former, but it has the disadvantage of compelling
them to be covered up at once by soil, while the other plan
delays it two or three weeks later, and it is of the utmost
importance in preserving vegetables that the operation
(particularly the final covering) be delayed as late in the
season as frost will permit. Generally more are lost by be-
ginning too soon than delaying too late. Onions, we find,
are best preserved in a barn or stable loft, in layers of
from 8 to 10 inches deep, covered up with about a foot of
hay or straw on the approach of severe frosts. The great
points to be attained are a low temperature and a dry at-
mosphere; they will bear 20 degrees of frost without in-
jury, provided they are not moved while frozen, but they
will not stand a reduction of temperature much lower than
this without injury.

CHAPTER, X Vik

INSECTS.

— os

We have but little trouble with insects in our highly
cultivated grounds; what with continued moving of the
soil by plowing and harrowing every foot, from three to
four times each season, incessant hoeing, and the digging
up of the crops, we give these pests but little chance for a
foot-hold. We are, however, occasionally troubled with
Aphides, the “ Green-fly,” in our forcing houses of Let-
tuce. A complete remedy for this trouble, in its early
stages, is smoke from burning tobacco stems; or tobacco
stems steeped in water to give it about the color of strong
tea, and applied with a syringe, will thoroughly destroy
them. “Jumping Jack,” or the Turnip-fly, occasions
some trouble with late sowings of Cabbages, Turnips,
and Radishes, but we find an excellent preventive in dust-
ing lime over the beds, immediately the seeds begin to
germinate. It is of the utmost importance to use preven-
tives in the case of insects, for if once they get a lodge-
ment, it is almost useless to attempt their destruction.
The striped Cucumber-bug, which, with us, attacks late
sowings only, we have found to yield readily to a few ap-
plications of bone-dust, which serves the double purpose

of disturbing the insect and encouraging the growth of
99

100 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

the crop. But our most formidable enemy of the insect
tribe is that which attacks the roots of the Cabbage fam-
ily, causing the destructive disease known as the “ club-
root.” There is a general misconception of the cause of
this disease; happily our peculiar location here, gives me
the means, I believe, of thoroughly disproving some of
these absurd dogmas, that club-root is caused by “hog
manure,” “heavy soil,” “light soil,” ete. Ido not doubt
that it has appeared thousands of times with just
such conditions; yet, within three miles from the City
Hall of New York, I can show to-day, on the classic
shores of Communipaw, scores of acres that have been
just so manured, both light soils and heavy soils, that
have grown Cabbages for twenty consecutive years, and
yet, the first appearance of club-root is yet to be seen.
On the other hand, I can show on soils, not more than a
mile distant from those on the Communipaw shore, where
the ground is cultivated in the very best possible manner,

and where every variety of manure has been tried, and -

yet it is impossible to get a crop of Cauliflower or Cabbage
clear from club-root for two years in succession. Now, the
reason of the immunity from the pest on the one variety
of the soil, and not on the other, does not, to us, admit of
the slightest particle of doubt. On the shore side, and
for nearly a mile inland, there are regular deposits of oys-
ter shell, mixed with the soil, almost as we find pebbles in a
gravelly soil; now, our theory is, that the insect which
occasions the club-root, cannot exist in contact with the
lime, which of course is present in large amount in a soil,
containing such abundance of oyster shell. Reasoning
from this, we have endeavored to bring up soils deficient in

a

INSECTS. 101

shell, by heavy dressings of lime; this answered, however,
only temporarily, and we found it too expensive to con-
tinue it. ‘The increasing demands for manures in the
vicinity of New York, has rendered them of late years
scarce and high in price, so that we were necessitated to
begin the use of guano and other concentrated manures,
and as this was rather new with us in our market gardens,
we have had the pleasure of some very interesting experi-
ments, Last season, in my grounds at Jersey City, where
we have never been able to get two crops of Cabbages
successively, without having them injured by club-root, my
foreman suggested to me to experiment with a bed, of about
half an acre, to be planted with early Wakefield Cabbage.
One-half of this he proposed to manure at the rate of
75 tons per acre with stable manure, the other half with
flour of bone, at the rate of 2000 pounds per acre; this
was accordingly done in the usual way, by sowing the
bone-dust on the ground after plowing, and then thoroughly
harrowing in. During the month of May we could see no
perceptible difference in the bed; but just as soon as our
first hot days in June came, down wilted the portion that
had been dressed with stable manure, showing a well-de-
fined line the whole length of the bed, and, on pulling the
plants up, we found that our enemy was at work, while in
that portion that had been dressed by the bone-dust, not
a wilted plant could be seen, but, on the contrary, the
crop had most unusual vigor. This experiment has been
to me one of the most satisfactory I ever tried; it still
further proves, that this destructive insect cannot exist to
an injurious extent in a soil impregnated with lime, and also
proves, that we have a most effective remedy in this valu-

102 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

able and portable manure. The experiment was, however,
to me rather a costly one; our past experience told us
that there was no reason to expect that the portion, on
which the stable manure was used, would not be attacked
by club-root, as it had borne a crop of Cabbage the pre-
vious year, and nearly twenty years’ working of that soil
had shown that this crop could never be grown succes-
sively two years ; but experiments, to be satisfactory, must
be done on a scale of some magnitude, and although I lost
some $200 by the difference in the crop, I believe it to
have been a profitable investment.

Thave incidentally stated that the Cabbage crop, treated
in the usual manner, can only be grown every alternate
year, the reason of which we infer to be, that the insect
is harmless to the plant when in the perfect state the first
season, but that it is attracted by the plant, deposits its
egos in the soil, and that in the larva condition in which
it appears the second year, it attacks the root. Whether
this crude theory is correct or not, I will not presume to
say, but if it is not, how can we account for the fact of our
being able to grow this plant, free from its ravages every
alternate year, while, if we attempt to do so successively
without the use of lime, it is certain to be attacked ?

All authorities on gardening, that I have had access to,
seem to be unaware of the fact that club-root is never seen
in soils impregnated with shells. This variety of soil is
not common. I have never seen it anywhere except here,
and as I have before said, this peculiarity of location most
fortunately gives a certain clue to the facts, and directly
points out the remedy, which, I think, we have found to
be in the copious use of bone-dust as manure.

INSECTS. 103

Another enemy of the Cabbage plant and one that is
sometimes even more destructive than the club root, is
the Cabbage Caterpillar. This insect is comparatively a
new-comer, having been imported from Europe by way
of Canada. It is produced by the small white butterfly
that is seen hovering over the Cabbage patches in spring.
It attacks the leaves of the plant, and is such a vora-
cious feeder that it will quickly destroy a whole planta-
tion. I am frequently applied to for a remedy for this
pest, but regret to say I know of none that is certain.
Nothing is more difficult and unsatisfactory than the at-
tempt to defeat the ravages of insects in the open field,
and I have yet to know of any being entirely successful.
In the long-cultivated gardens of New Jersey and Long
Island we do not suffer much from the ravages of either
of the above pests. The soil is so repeatedly turned over
and disturbed that I presume the maggot is not left long ~
enough at rest to develop itself in sufficient numbers to
produce any great injury; and the luxurious growth re-
sulting from the continued and heavy manuring seems to
be less inviting to the butterfly to deposit her eggs than
the feebler growth of less fertile soils. Or it may be that
the increase of English sparrows is helping us in both
these cases, by destroying the fly that produces the mag-
got, or the small white butterfly that produces the cater-
pillar, or it may be that they feed on the caterpillar itself,
as I know they do with the rose-slug. At all events, the
farmer will gain by encouraging and caring for the spar-
rows. A few years ago the street trees of New York,
Brooklyn, and Jersey City were festooned by myriads of
the “measuring worm’; now, since the advent of the

104 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

sparrows, they are scarcely ever seen. The sparrows will
live in any section of the country if properly housed and
fed in winter, and if such care was general, we should hear
fewer complaints of insect ravages. True, they might
exact wages for their services in requiring a little grain,
but of the two evils, better submit to that done by the
birds than to the insects.

I will relate an experiment to destroy the Cabbage
Caterpillar, which occurred during this month in my im-
mediate neighborhood. One of my neighbors found that
the pest was attacking his Cabbages; he came to me and
asked what I thought of his using slaked lime to dust
over them. I told him I had but little faith init. But
he was resolved to try it, and put it on at the rate of four
or five barrels to the acre, carefully dusting it on each
plant. This was about the Ist of June. On the 17th he
came to me in triumph, saying that the remedy had been
effectual, and that there was hardly a caterpillar to be
seen. Unfortunately for the experiment, but fortun-
ately for truth, another neighbor whose Cabbage patch
had been attacked at the same time, but had received no
lime, was also entirely clear of the caterpillar! The cure
was traceable to another cause. We had had a deluging
rain, that swept off the caterpillars and started the Cab-
bages into luxuriant growth at the same time. Had the
insect come in the legions it does in some places, had
there been no rain, and had the dry, hot weather con-
tinued, the lime dust would probably have failed.

Last summer I had with great care nursed along in my
greenhouses for many weeks a collection of rare varieties
of German Stock Gillyflowers, a plant belonging to the

i i i ee ee ee ee

INSECTS. 105

same natural order (Cruciferz) as the Cabbage. Upwards
of two thousand plants were set out in June, on rather
_ poor soil; by the middle of July they had made splendid
plants, one foot across, and just as they were bursting
into bloom we observed the little white butterfly moving
amongst them, and knew what might be expected to fol-
low. Lime dust, solutions of carbolic soap, whale oil
soap, and sundry other things were used, all to no effect,
and by middle of August the plants were literally eaten
up by the caterpillar. There is nothing more unpleasant
than to tell any one suffering under a calamity that there
is no tangible remedy; but it is infinitely better to do so
than to delude them with a false one. I have been a
worker of the soil since my boyhood, and every year’s
experience convinces me of the helplessness of remedies
against insects or other blighting plagues that attack
vegetation in the open field. It is true that the amateur
gardener may save his dozen or two of cabbages or roses
by daily picking off or destroying the insects; but when
it comes to broad acres, I much doubt if ever any remedy
will be found to be practicable. We have one consolation
in knowing that these pests are only periodical, and never
continue so as to permanently destroy.

CHAPTER XVIII

VEGETABLES, THEIR VARIETIES AND CUI:
TIVATION.

In describing the modes of cultivating the different va-
rieties of vegetables, I shall notice at length only those
of the most importance, and the most profitable for market
purposes, while for those of less value as market crops, the
directions for culture will be such as are adapted to private
gardens only.

A limited number of kinds will be described, and such
only as our experience has shown to possess the greatest
earliness and productiveness. Nothing is more perplexing
to the beginner, than to be bewildered by descriptions of,
perhaps twenty, so-called varieties of a vegetable, that per-
haps, in reality, does not embrace four distinct kinds. For
example, in early Cabbages, there are some hundred or more
varicties described; yet we find, after having experi-
mented with some scores of kinds in our time, there is
one variety more profitable to grow than any other, viz.

the Jersey Wakefield, which is grown in this locality to
106

.
:

VEGETABLES—ASPARAGUS. 107

the exclusion of all others. However, some kmds are
found to do better in some localities than in others, hence,
as in fruits, no particular variety should be claimed to be
universally the best.

ASPARAGUS.—(Asparagus officinalis.)

Asparagus being a hardy perennial plant, that may be
grown on the same ground for twenty years without re-
newal, special care is required in forming the beds in
which it isto grow. This is done sometimes by trench-
ing to the depth of two or three feet, mixing each layer
of soil, as turned over, with two or three inches of well
rotted manure; but for market purposes, on a large scale,
trenching is seldom resorted to; deep and thorough pul-
verizing by the plow and subsoiler serving instead. The
soil best suited for Asparagus is a deep and rather sandy
loam, such as is often to be found on the borders of mead-
ows or on the margins of lakes—land formed by the wash-
ings of the higher grounds, and known as alluvial.

PropaGation.—Asparagus is propagated by seed which
is Sown in spring, as soon as the soil will admit of working,
which should be prepared, by being thoroughly pul-
verized, and enriched with well-rotted manure. The seed
is sown in rows 1 foot apart, and if kept carefully hoed,
and clear from weeds, the plants will be in fine condition to
plant out the succeeding spring. Strict attention to this
will save a year in time; for if the seed bed has been neg
lected, it will take two years to get the plants as large as
_ they would be in one year, if they had been properly cared
for. In consequence of this very common neglect of
proper cultivation of the seed bed, it is an almost unl-

108 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

versal impression that the plants must be two or three
years old before planting. This is undoubtedly an error,
for almost all large growers for market purposes, in the
neighborhood of New York, invariably plant one-year old
plants, and count on marketing a crop the third spring
from the time of sowing. One pound of seed will pro-
duce about 3000 plants; and to plant an acre of Asparagus
requires from 15,000 to 20,000 plants when planted close.

PLanting.—The bed being prepared as previously de-
scribed, planting may be done any time for six or eight

weeks from the opening of spring; the plant, from its pecu-
liar succulent roots, is less susceptable of injury from late

planting than most other vegetables, although at the same
time delay should not occur, unless unavoidable, as the
sooner it is planted after the ground is in working order,
the better will be the result. When there is plenty of ground,
and the crop is to be extensively grown, perhaps the
best mode of planting is in rows 3 feet apart, the plants
9 inches apart intherows. For private use, or for market-
ing on a small scale, beds should be formed 5 feet wide,
with three rows planted in each; one in the middle,
and one on each side, a foot from the edge; the distance
of the plants in the rows, 9 inches; the alleys between
the beds should be 2 feet wide. In planting, a line is set
and a cut made, a little slanting, to the depth of 6 or 8
mches, according to the size of the plants. The plants
are then laid against the side of the trench, at the distance
already named —9 inches — care being taken to properly
spread the roots. The crown or top of the plant should
be covered about 3 inches. In a week or so after plant-
ing, the beds should be touched over lightly with a sharp

oOo CO 7

VEGETABLES—ASPARAGUS. 109

steel rake, which will destroy the germinating weeds,
The raking had better be continued at intervals of a week
or so, until the plants start to grow, when the hoe may
be applied between the rows and alleys; the weeds that
come up close to the plant, must of necessity be pulled
out by the hand.

In the first edition of this work I gave it as my belief
that we had only one variety of Asparagus, and that all
the so-called “giant” and “mammoth” varieties were
merely the results of superior soil or cultivation, which
on being propazated by seeds or otherwise and placed in
ordinary conditions of culture, would fall back to their
original or normal condition; in short, that the species
had never “broke,” as we technically term it.

This belief necessarily made me sceptical to the claims
of the “Colossal” when that variety was first introduced,
and I invariably replied to all inquirers that past ex-
perience in this matter led me to believe that it was no
different from the ordinary sort.

I was finally invited to pay a visit to the farm of Abra-
ham Van Siclen, of Jamaica, Long Island, and there to
inspect an acre of the Oyster Bay Asparagus (the ordinary
kind), and an acre of his ‘‘ Colossal,” which Mr. Van Siclen
had planted in the spring of 1868, each then one year old
from seed. A thorough inspection of the roots of each lot
proved that they were of the same age. The soil was
next examined, and found to be as near the same as it
could well be, yet these two beds of asparagus showed a
difference that left me no longer a shadow of a doubt of
their being entirely distinct varieties. In the old variety
we found no shoot thicker than one inch in diameter and

110 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

averaging twenty shoots to a hill, while in the “ Colossal”
many shoots were found an inch and a half in diameter
and averaging thirty-five shoots to a hill—an enormous
growth, when it is remembered the plant was only three
years from the seed.

Mr. Van Siclen is well known as one of our best Long
Island market gardeners, who has made the growing of
Asparagus a specialty for twenty years, and who has prob-
ably in that time sold more Asparagus in the markets of
New York than any other man. He was exceedingly en-
thusiastic in praise of this variety, believing that at a low
estimate it would yield a profit of at least one-third greater
than the ordinary sort, under the same conditions, besides
coming to maturity two years sooner.

Mr. Van Siclen’s method of growing Asparagus is simple,
and in some respects new to me. To begin, he sows his
seeds in his rich sandy loam, in April, in rows one foot
apart and two inches in depth, dropping the seeds so that
they may be distributed evenly about half an inch apart;
the plants are cultivated by hoeing between the rows and
keeping them clear of weeds by hand picking. In the
spring following he sets his plants, now one year old,
which are in his experience preferable to those two years
old. His mode of planting is somewhat different from the
usual practice, but for having a lasting Asparagus bed—
one that will be as good at the end of twenty years as it
is at eight—it is certainly the best. It differs in putting
the roots much wider apart than usual, his stand
six feet between the rows and four feet between the plants,
making less than two thousand plants to an acre. In pre-
paring the land to receive the plants, he merely plows to

PRIS +22

pee
—

-_
ah ae Sewer NS TSP ee

XS ee ee

VEGETABLES—ASPARAGUS. 111

the depth of a foot or so with the ordinary plow; his soft,
sandy sabsoil rendering the use of the subsoil plow un- -
necessary, but in soils less favored, the use of the subsoil
plow would be of decided advantage. In preparing to
plant, he turns out a furrow with a double mould-board |
plow, so that at its deepest part it is nearly 12 inches
deep; a good shovelful of thoroughly rotted manure is
then placed in the furrow, at distances of four feet, so
spread that it will make a layer of three inches or so; an
inch or two of soil is then thrown on the top of the manure
and the Asparagus planted as shown in the engraving,
and so deep that its crown is seven or eight inches below
the surface level. The plant is now only partially covered

Fig. 26.—MANNER OF PLANTING ASPARAGUS.

up with the soil, say two or three inches, until it starts to
grow, when the furrows are thrown in by the plow so
that the whole surface is levelled, which places the crown
of the Asparagus some seven or eight inches under the
surface. This would be, perhaps, four inches too deep in
heavy scils, but in light, soft soils it answers well. The
first and second seasons after planting, no Asparagus is
cut for market, as it weakens the roots, but in the third
year a partial crop is taken, although the beds are not
considered to be at their best until the sixth or seventh
year. Their productiveness may be continued for twenty
years by this wide system of planting, recourse being had

112 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

to manuring freely annually, by digging or plowing it in
around the roots before the crop has started to grow, or
after it is cut.

I may here mention that Mr. Van Siclen has also a
white form of the Colossal which he has carefully selected
and preserved for several years past. It is entirely dis-
tinct from the “Purple Top” variety, and we are sanguine
that it will perpetuate its distinctive quality. If so, we
shall have a most desirable novelty of this popular vege-
table, which will be duly announced as soon as its per-
manency of character is ascertained,

Tue AppriicaTion or Sarr to Asparagus as a top-
dressing, is of great benefit in inland districts, out of the
range of a saline atmosphere; but is of little or no benefit
in the vicinity of salt water. When used, it should be
applied in spring only, at the rate of from 2 to 3 Ibs. per
square yard, strown on the surface; the rains will dissolve
it and wash it down to the roots. Besides its beneficial
effects upon the plant, it is destructive to the wire worm,
and other insects that are often troublesome to the As-
paragus.

We have found Asparagus beds very profitably benefit-
ed by the application of superphosphate of lime, as a
spring top-dressing, applied at the rate of 500 lbs. per
acre, sown on the beds and hoed in. Experiments with
this, on alternate rows, showed a difference of nearly 1 foot
in hight of the stalk, in favor of the rows to which the
superphosphate had been applied, over those which had
none; and a difference of nearly double the product when
the crop was cut in the succeeding spring.

The fall treatment of the Asparagus beds varies with

ee

VEGETABLES—ASPARAGUS. 113

the locality; in cold regions, where, if left unprotected,
the frost would penetrate below the roots, a covering of 3
or 4 inches of rough manure or leaves is necessary. Al-
though an entirely hardy plant, it will start earlier, and
with greater vigor in spring, if the root has not been sub-
jected to severe freezing. In milder sections, no such
precaution is necessary; all that need be done is to clear
off the stems as soon as they are withered in the fall, and
clean the beds preparatory to giving a dressing of 2 or 3
inches of manure, which had better not be applied until
spring. We believe the common practice of top-dressing
Asparagus beds in fall to be a very wasteful one, in dis-
tricts where it is not necessary to provide against severe
freezing, for, as the plant is then dormant, the juices of
the manure are either evaporated, or else washed down
by rains below the roots of the plant. I remember, many
years ago, having three small Asparagus beds under my
charge, on one of which I applied in December 25 lbs. of
Peruvian guano, dissolved in fifty gallons of water; in
April the same application was made to another bed, and
the other was left without anything. There was no per-
ceptible difference between that to which the liquid had
been applied in December and that to which none had
been given, but on that which received it in April, nearly
double the weight of crop was produced. Since then, all
our practice, corroborated by direct experiment, has con-
vinced me beyond all doubt, that manures, either liquid or
solid, organic or inorganic, are unprofitably employed
when applied to plants in the dormant state.

In gathering the crop, caution must be used not to in-
jure the plants by continued cutting; for it must be borne

114 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

in mind, that to reproduce annually its crop of shoots in
spring, something must be left to grow to encourage the
formation of fresh roots. In our market gardens, the
practice is to cut off all the shoots as they are ready, un-
til the middle of May or 1st of June, when the shoots be-
gin to show signs of weakness; then all is left to grow
and no more cut. In its preparation for market, the
shoots are tied up in round bunches, containing from
twenty to thirty shoots in each. The tying material is
usually bass-matting, as that is soft and has the necessary
strength. It requires a little practice to do the ‘ bunch-
ing” rapidly, and it should be the object of the beginner
to strive to attain this, as it is light work, and continued
slowness in the operation will make a serious gap in the
profits.

The size of the bunch is governed by the abundance
of the Asparagus; nine inches in length by five inches in
diameter being the usual size. Uniformity in the bunches
is secured by the use of a buncher, the simplest of which
is made by setting four small stakes about six inches
long upright in a bench in the form ofa square, about
four inches apart each way. The strings being laid down
the shoots are piled up between the stakes, which hold
them in place until the strings are tied; the but-ends are
then cut off square. Some quite ingenious Asparagus
bunchers have been invented; these subject the shoots to
sufficient pressure to make a close, neat bunch.

This crop is subject to so many conditions, that an
average value can hardly be given; some of our growers
here claim that it pays an annual clear profit of $1,000 per
acre, while others say that it does not pay them over $200

VEGETABLES—ASPARAGUS. 115

per acre. During a period of ten years, counting from
the time the bed was planted, it is safe to say that, in this
vicinity, the average profits per acre will be $400. Itisa
crop that never fails to sell, is always productive if pro-
perly treated, and having a great value for its weight—a
ton often being worth from $200 to $400—it is, in all
respects, a valuable crop for the market gardener.

In some localities, especially on Long Island, the As-
paragus beetle (Crioceris asparagi) has injured the crop
to such an extent as to cause whole
plantations to be plowed under.
When the beetle first appears, it may
be controlled by picking it off and
destroying it; but if allowed to be-
come established, the task is hope-
less. The engraving (fig. 27) shows
the insect in its different stages. The
lower figure is a part of a branch,
with the small black eggs attached
by their ends; these are given of the
natural size, and magnified. The

larva, or caterpillar, as well as the
Fig. 27.—asparacus perfect beetle, are shown at the top
Lees of the engraving; the natural size of
these is indicated by the lines drawn at the side. When-
ever the eggs or the larve appear, cut and burn the
plants, as long’as any traces of the insect are to be seen;
this must be done if it destroys every vestige of vegeta-
tion. A remedy much in use in some sections, is to coop
up hens in the vicinity of Asparagus beds, and let the
chickens out to pick up the larve and insects.

116 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

ARTICHOKE,.—(Cynara Scolymus.)

Although a vegetable as yet rarely seen in our markets,
it is extensively used in Europe, particularly in France.
The portion of the plant most used, is the undeveloped
flower-head, or rather those portions of the flower-head
called the scales of the involucre. They are sometimes
boiled, and used as a sal-
ad, with vinegar, oil, and
salt; but more generally

in the raw state.

NS
‘i eas
4 H} WA

TMV Lae i) Gy e
Sa a AN Another use of the
i a . . .
. Artichoke is to blanch it,

SEE LY | EP

i! i shi
bess } ne

aN Sra \\ ik i) aE

iy

i
1 ff 7K; \ Yi

i. WY ie PMA. by tying the young side
Cie. | a AN i 2, shoots moderately close

AVS AY Wagan ni Ap SS ANY VFA NAN .
f y fh of » ‘ vi S together, as we tie En-
LY Ne AY dive, filling in between

vy} Ap « e
We with soil to exclude the
n

air until the shoots are
blanched; this is what is
known as “Artichoke
Salad,” or “ Artichoke
Chard,” it is used in
this state in various
forms of cookery, besides

Fig. 28.—GREEN GLOBE ARTICHOKE. being used as a salad.

It is a vegetable of easy culture, originally propagated
from seeds, until a stock is secured, after vghich it is read-
ily increased by suckers from the root. These are planted
out in April or May, in rows from 3 to 4 feet apart, and 2
feet between the plants, care being taken that the plants
are well firmed in planting, and if the weather is dry,

VEGETABLES—ARTICHOKE. I hy

they must be freely watered until they start to grow.
The plantation, the first season, will only give a partial
crop; but, as it is a perennial plant, after being once
planted, the same bed will remain in bearing for years.
The plant may be said to be entirely hardy south of
Mason and Dixon’s Line, but north of that, it requires to
be protected by covering between the plants, with 6 or 8
inches of leaves or coarse manure.

Tue VARIETIES are the Green Globe, and Common
Green, differing but little, except in the form of the flow:
er-bud, the former being globular, the latter conical. It
is claimed by some that the Common Green is more hardy
and productive, but we have grown them side by side for
years, and never have observed any difference, except the
very trifling one in the shape of the flower-bud.

ARTICHOKE,—Jervusatem.—(Helianthus tuberosus.)

This is an entirely different plant from the true Arti-
choke, though it resembles it somewhat in flavor—hence
itsname. As it is very often confounded with the true
Artichoke, we give an engraving of both. This one is
a species of Helianthus, or Sun-flower, and the plant has
the general appearance of a small Sunflower. The edible
part of the plant is its tubers. These are like the potato
in appearance, but when cooked, to the taste of most peo-
ple, are very inferior in flavor, Their nutritive value is
said, however, to be fully equal to that of the potato.
Used in the raw state, it is pickled like the cucumber, or
sliced, and eaten with vinegar as a salad, but as a culinary

118 GABDENING FOR PROFIT.

vegetable is but little grown, except for variety or novelty.

Its culture is, in all respects, similar to the potato, but
it is more productive, always free from disease, will grow
_almost in any soil or situation, and will stand the winter
Jn light soils wherever a Parsnip crop will stand; for

Fig. 29.—JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.

these reasons it has been suggested that it might prove a
valuable food for cattle, or pigs, who eat it as freely as
potatoes, when boiled.

There are several varieties known as Red, Purple, Yel-
low, and White Skinned.

BASIL.—(Ocitmum Basilicum.)

An herb of a highly aromatic odor, and a strong flavor
of cloves. It is used for flavoring soups, stews, and
sauces, and is by some used in salads. Its culture is the
same as that of other sweet herbs. The seed should be
sown in the open ground, and not in frames, which is the
English practice, and necessary there from their colder
climate. Sow in rows 1 foot apart; when 3 or 4 inches
high, it may be transplanted in rows 1 foot apart, and 6
inches between plants. If a small quantity only is re-
quired, it may be thinned out in the seed rows, and left to
grow where sown.

VEGETABLES—BEAN. 119

There are two species cultivated, namely, the Common
Sweet Basil, (Ocimum Basilicum), and the Bush Basil,
(O. minimum).

BALM.—(Welissa officinalis.)

Another well-known aromatic herb, which has a very
agreeable lemon-like odor. It is used as a tea for its sooth-
ing effect in irritations of the throat and lungs, and a cen-
tury ago was used as a specific for coughs and colds. Jts
young shoots are sometimes used as an ingredient in
salads, It is rapidly propagated by divisions of the root,
which, planted in spring, at 1 foot apart each way, will
form a solid mass by fall.

Besides the common kind, we have now in cultivation
a beautiful variegated variety, possessing all the properties
of the other.

BEAN,.—(Piaseolus nanus.)\—Busu, KipNey, or SNAP.

A leading vegetable of our market gardens, and ex-
tensively cultivated in every section of the country
North and South. Although it can be grown on soils that
are not enriched by manure, yet, like almost every other
vegetable, it is more profitable when grown on highly cul:
tivated land. It is, what we term, a “tender” plant;
that is, one that will be killed by the action of slight
frosts, hence it is not planted until late enough in the
spring, to secure it from the risk. As in a country pre
senting such differences of temperature as ours, no stated
date can be given at which to sow, perhaps no safer rule

*

A

120 GARDENING FOR PROFIT,

can be adopted for sowing all “tender” vegetables for all
parts of the country, than the time at which our great sta-
ple, Indian Corn, is planted. This rule will be equally in-
telligible to the inhabitants of Maine and to those of South
Carolina, for all plant Corn and know, that our great
enemy to early vegetation, “Jack Frost,” will, without
scruple, smite this “tender” vegetable if it be forced to
grow before his icy reign is past. In this section, we plant
Beans for first crop when we plant Corn, from 10th to 20th
May. But as the crop of Beans comes rapidly to maturity,
under favorable circumstances, in five or six weeks, it may
be sown any time from these dates until July, August, or
September, according to the temperature of the district.

The culture in market gardens, is simply to draw drills
about 8 inches deep, and from 18 inches to 2 feet apart,
according to the richness of the soil; the poorer the soil,
the closer they can be planted. The seed is dropped in
the drills 2 or 3 inches apart, and the soil covered in on
them with the feet; this we find to be a quicker and bet-
ter method of covering in seeds of this size, than by the
hoe or rake. After the plants have grown an inch or
two, a cultivator is run between the rows, which gener-
ally is all that is necessary to be done, until they are
large enough to have a little earth thrown to each side of
the row by the plow, which completes their cultivation.
Beans, like Tomatoes and Peas, are easy of cultivation, and
not at all particular to soil, and are, in consequence, rarely
a profitable crop in the locality in which they are grown ;
hence the only way in which they are made profitable is,
by growing South and shipping North, they being easily
trausported. Large quantities are grown in early soils

VEGETABLES—BEAN. 121

in southern sections of the country, and shipped to our
large northern cities, and meet a rapid sale, at prices that
must pay a large profit, if their manner of growing the
crop is as simple as ours. It will be understood that thi

crop is almost exclusively sold in pod, as snap shoots, (in
the green unripened state), by the hucksters, and rarely
as a shell bean.

The varieties are now very numerous, but the following,
placed in what we consider the order of their value to the
market gardener, will embrace variety enough for all
practical purposes.

Early Valentine.—Early, productive, tender, succulent,
and of excellent flavor; continuing longer in the green
state than most of the varieties. Seeds, when ripe, sal-
mon, speckled with purplish-rose. This variety is often
marketable in six weeks from the time of sowing in May.

Early China.—Rather earlier than the preceding, but
. hardly so productive; the pods become yellow quicker,
which makes it not so valuable as a market variety. It is,
however, grown by some in preference to the Valentine,
it being considered afew days earlier. Seeds, when ripe,
white, purple speckled.

Early Mohawk.—This variety is the most suitable for
northern latitudes, as it is less susceptible of injury from
cold than most of the others; it is very productive, with
pods five or six inches long, but is not recommended as an
early variety. Seeds drab, with purple spots. ©

Early Fijee.—A remarkably early and prolific variety,
known also as White’s Early. It is the hardiest and de-
cidedly one of the best brush beans grown. Seeds drab
or light slate color, marked and spotted with light drab.

122 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

Black Wax.—This is a comparatively new variety. The
pods when ripe are of a waxy yellow, transparent, very
tender and of excellent quality.

Refugee, or Thousand to One.—Very productive,
though not early; young pods extremely tender and of
fine flavor. This variety is very extensively grown for
pickling, and has long been a standard sort. Seeds, dull
yellow, speckled with purple.

White Marrowfat.—This variety is the one so exten-
sively grown for sale in the dry state; it is also valued as
a string bean, but is used to greater extent shelled, either
green or dried. Seeds large, ivory white.

Newington Wonder.—A remarkably productive sort
and valued for private gardens. It is the best variety for
forcing. The pods are very crisp and tender; the ripe
seeds are light-brown, with a yellowish line near the eye.

tO
BEAN ,—(Piaseolus vulgaris, etc..\—RUNNING, OR POLE.

These require rather more care in culture than the
Bush Beans. The soil best suited is sandy loam, which
should be liberally enriched with short manure in the hills,
which are formed, according to the variety, from 3 to 4
feet apart, and provided with a stake from 8 to 9 feet in
hight, set in the centre of each. This class of beans is
particularly tender, and it is perfectly useless to plant the
seeds before the weather has become settled and warm
in spring, as they are almost certain to rot, and even
should they not, the plant makes no growth, unless in un-
interrupted warm weather. In this district, they shenld

VEGETABLES—BEAN. 123

sever be planted out until a week or more after the plant-
ing of Bush Beans; if planted at the same time, 10th of
May, they are almost certain to fail.

From five to six seeds are planted in each hill, about 2
laches deep. Being a vegetable requiring considerable
expense in growing, staking, picking, etc., it brings a cor-
respondingly high price per acre in market; but maturing
during the heat of summer, the advantage of earliness in
this crop is not so manifest as in many others. The prof:
its per acre average about $250, when sold for consump-
tion in the locality in which it is grown. Shipped from
earlier sections it, no doubt, would double the above
amount. There are many varieties, but only a few of
leading value.

Large White Lima.—This is almost universally grown
both for market and for private use. It is esteemed the
best of all the pole beans.

Dutch Case Knife.—A very productive variety, with
long and broad pods; it is of excellent flavor, and next
to the Lima, is the best market sort.

Indian Chief, or Algerian Wax.—One of the best
varieties, either for snaps or shelled in the green state;
its tender, succulent and richly colored pods are much es-
teemed; they are produced in great abundance, and con-
tinue fit for use longer than most varieties. In moist
seasons they remain crisp and tender until the seeds have
grown sufiiciently to be used in the green state.

Giant Wax.—A new variety; pods from six to nine
inches long, clear waxy yellow, thick and “leshy, very
productive; tender and of good flavor; seeds red.

124 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

London Horticultural. A very popular variety for
private use, as it is equally serviceable in the green state,
or, when mature enough, to shell. Seeds oval, marbled
with purplish-brown.

Scarlet Runner.— A great favorite in European
gardens, both as an ornamental plant and a useful
vegetable. It grows to the height of 9 or 10 feet, pro-
ducing dazzling scarlet flowers, from July to October.
Used as String Beans, and shelled. Seeds lilac, mottled
with black. In the warmer portions of this continent,
where it is a native, this species is perennial, with a fleshy
root; those who grow the plant for ornament sometimes
take up the roots and preserve them through the winter,
like Dahlia roots. There is a variety with white flowers
and seeds,

BEET.—(Beta vulgaris.)

This is one of the leading and most valuable crops of
our market gardens, and next to Cabbages, is perhaps the
most extensively grown as an early crop. The soil best
suited, is that which is rather light than otherwise, always
provided that it is thoroughly enriched by manure. We
make little difference in the manner of working or manur
ing the ground for any of our leading early crops; the
ground must, in all cases, be thoroughly pulverized by
plowing, subsoiling, and harrowing, and when stable ma-
nure can be procured, plowed in at the rate of 75 or 100
tons per acre. If stabie manure cannot be had, the next
best substitutes must be used in the quantities specified

ti ee le i i i eh dk

VEGETABLES—BEET. 125

see Chapter on Manures. As early in spring as the ground
becomes fit to work, the Beets are usually sown in rows
1 foot apart, made by the “marker,” about 3 inches deep.
We prefer to sow rather thickly, not less than 8 lbs. per
acre, for the reason that late frosts often kill off a portion
of the young plants, but when sown thickly, enough is
generally left to make a crop, which amply repays the dif-
ference of a few pounds of seed. After sowing, the drills
are covered in by the feet, by walking along the rows, af-
ter the bed is completed; if the weather is dry, the whole
is rolled, which better firms the soil around the seed and
also leaves the ground level, making it easier to be hoed.
Beets are occasionally planted 2 feet apart, and the inter-
vening row sown with Radishes; the Radishes mature
early, and are used or sold off soon enough to admit of
more room for the Beet crop. It makes with us but lit-
tle difference in the profits of the crop which way it is
done, the results being nearly the same in each case; but
in places where limited quantities of vegetables only can
be disposed of, perhaps the latter plan is the best. The
young Beets are thinned out to 6 inches apart when the
rows are 1 foot apart, but when at 2 feet to only 4 inches,
as they have more space between the rows for air. The
thinnings of the Beets are used like Spinach, and when
carefully handled, the thinnings will always sell for more
than the price of the labor of thinning the crop.

In this neighborhood, Beets sown first week in April,
are begun to be marketed the first week in June, and en-
tirely cleared off by July 1st, when the ground is prepar-
ed for the second crop. It will be understood that they
are at this early date sold in an immature state, before the

126 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

root has reached complete development, but the great
point is earliness; the public being well satisfied to pay
more for it half-grown, if early, than when full grown, if
late.

This crop I have always considered a very profitable
one, even at the seemingly low price of $1 per 100 roots,
the average wholesale price in New York markets. But
80,000 roots are grown per acre when sown at 1 foot apart,
and although the labor of pulling and bunching up is
greater than in some crops, yet, at $1 per 100, it will give
an easy profit of $400 per acre.

Beets are an excellent article to ship, and the price paid
in New York, for the first lots from Savannah and Norfolk,
etc., is often as high as $3 per 100 roots.

The foregoing all relates to the crop in the green state
for an early market, but they are also extensively grown
for use in fall, winter, and spring. For this they are usu-
ally sown later, often in some sections as a second crop, as
late as July Ist, although in the Northern States the roots
hardly develop enough when sown
after June. The manner of saving
them in winter, will be found under
the head of Preserving Vegetables
in Winter.

The really useful varieties of Beets

are very limited in number, and are

embraced in the following, arranged
Fig. 30,—EaRLY BLoop 4S usual, according to their merit as
aS et. market sorts.
Egyptian Turnip.—This variety has proved to be a most
valuable acquisition, being from 10 to 12 days earlier than

VEGETABLES—BEET. 127

the old Blood Turnip. The roots are large in size, and of a
rich deep crimson color; from the smallness of the tops of
the Egyptian at least one fourth more can be grown on
the same space than we have been in the habit of raising.
We have had some difficulty in obtaining the seed of this
variety pure for the past two years, the demand for it
having been so great as to induce adulteration with inferior
kinds by foreign growers, but it is now
being largely grown in this country, and
will probably supersede all other varie-
ties, both for market and private gardens
where earliness is the object.

Early Blood Turnip.—The standard
early variety. Later than the Bassano,
but being of richer color, it at once
supplants it in market, soon as it comes
in, which is usually in three or four days
after that variety.

Bassano.—The earliest of all known
varieties; outside color light red; flesh
white, veined with pink. Its earliness is

Fig. BEE ous: its only merit, as it is coarser in flesh
amooTH Boop than the deep colored varieties. The

cae proportionate quantity sown for market
purposes should not be more than one sixth of the

preceding.

Dewing’s Improved Blood Turnip.—This is an improved
variety of the Early Blood Turnip, and is one of the best
of the early round varieties. The roots are deep blood
red, of fine form and flavor. An excellent market sort.

128 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

Long Smooth Blood.—A great improvement on the
Common Blood Beet, being less strong and freer from root:
lets, besides being a week earlier. It is now grown here
to the entire exclusion of the other. The market demand,
however, for early crops, requires twice the quantity of
Round to that of Long ; for late sales of barrelled roots,
exactly the reverse quantities are needed.

Swiss Chard.—Is a distinct species from the Beet grown
for its roots, known to botanists as Beta Cicla. It is cul-
tivated solely for its leaves. The midrib of leaf is stewed
as Asparagus, the other portions of the leaf being used as
Spinach. The outer leaves are pulled off as in gathering
Rhubarb. It is largely grown in France and Switzerland.
In this country, it is now cultivated to some extent in
private gardens only. Its handsome foliage is as attrac-
tive as many of our prized flower-garden “leaf plants,”
and no doubt it would be much valued if we could only
regard it without the idea that it is only a Beet.

White Sugar.—The White Sugar or Silesian Beet
attains a large size, and is extensively grown for feeding
stock, although the young roots may be used for the table,
being sweet and well flavored. It is largely cultivated in
Europe for the manufacture of sugar.

Long Red Mangel Wurzel.—The variety most largely
grown for feeding stock, producing roots of a large size;
often, when grown in good soil, measuring 18 inches in
length, and from 6 to 8 inches in diameter. Color hght
red; flesh, mottled white and rose-color. Early and
productive. rs

Yellow Globe Mangel Wurzel.—Also grown for feed-

VEGETABLES—BORECOLE. 129

ing stock. Roots of large size and globular form growing
about one half above ground. It is a very productive
variety, yielding from 30 to 40 tons per acre; keeps better
than the Long Red, and is better adapted for growing in
shallow soils, Flesh, white mottled with red,

BORECOLE OR KALE,—(Prassica oleracea. Var.)

A variety of this receiving the rather indefinite term
of “Sprouts,” is extensively grown for the Northern mar:
kets, many acres of it being cultivated in the vicinity
of New York. It is sown in the month of September, in
rows 1 foot apart, treated in every way as Spinach, and is
ready for use in early spring. It is difficult to keep in
some soils in winter; those of rather a light nature being
the best. When successfully wintered over, it is a very
profitable crop, not unfrequently selling for $500 per acre.
The variety thus grown, is known in the seed stores as
Dwarf German Greens. Another class of it is cultivated
as we grow late Cabbage; it is sown in the open ground
in May, and planted out at distances, according to the va-
riety, from 2 to 3 feet apart. Of all the Cabbage tribe
this is the most tender and delicate, and it is surprising
that it has never yet been wanted in quantity enough to
make it a marketable vegetable, not one head being sold
to one thousand of the coarse winter Cabbage. The va-
rieties are very numerous; those below described are all
standard sorts.

Dwarf German Greens, or “ Sprouts,”’—Color blueish-

130 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

green, slightly colored, resembling somewhat the foliage
of Ruta Baga Turnips; it is of delicate flavor, and every
way desirable. The popular market sort.

Green Curled Scotch,—A rather dwarf variety, rarely
exceeding 18 inches in hight, but spreading, when under
good cultivation, to 3 feet in diameter. The leaves are

Fig. 32.—GERMAN GREENS.

beautifully curled, and of a bright green. This variety is
very hardy, and will remain over winter in any place
where the temperature does not fall below zero; it is most
tender after being touched by sharp frost.

Purple Borecole,—Similar to the above in all respects
except color, which is of a dull purple. It is the variety
most esteemed by the Germans; it is very hardy, and is
often seen in the markets of New York as late as January.

a ee

_—

—

ett

VEGETABLES—BROCCOLI. ee

A form of this, with its leaves beautifully variegated with
green and purple, or with white, red and green, is culti-
vated for ornament; it is not so hardy as the plain.

Cottagers’ Kale.—A comparatively new variety, a great
favorite in England. It is dwarf, not exceeding 12 inch-
es; leaves rich green, double curled and “ feathered” al
most to the ground. Very hardy, and a most profitable
sort, more weight being grown in the same space than
with any other variety.

BROCCOLI.—(Brassica oleracea. Var.)

This vegetable is so closely allied to Cauliflower, that it
seems absurd to have ever divided them under different
heads. Still we persist in growing them under the names
of Broccoli and Cauliflower, the Broccoli being planted for
fall use, Cauliflower, on the other hand, being mostly
planted for summer use, although it is well known that
their seasons might be reversed without any marked dif-
ference in the results. Like all of the Cabbage tribe,
Broccoli, to grow it in perfection, requires the soil to be in
the highest possible degree of fertility. The seed should
be sown, in this district, in the early part of May, whch
will give plants large enough to be transplanted in Juzy.
Farther south the sowing should be delayed until June o¥
July, and the transplanting delayed accordingly until
August, September, or October. There is no doubt that in
parts of the country where the thermometer does not fall
below 20° or 25°, that Broccoli may be had in perfection
from November until March. A necessary condition of

1382 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

perfect development, is a moist and rather cool atmosphere ;
for this reason we only get the crop in fine condition, in
this district, during the cool and moist months of October
and November. Owing often, however, to heat or dry-
ness in the months of August and September, the crop be-
comes an entire failure, and for this reason, for market
purposes, it is rather hazardous. When a good crop is
made, however, it is very profitable, rarely bringing less
than $12 per 100, or about $1000 peracre. The plants
of most of the varieties are planted 23 by 11 feet, or about
10,000 plants per acre.

In this district, for market purposes, we confine ourselves
to the first two varieties named below; some others,
however, are occasionally grown for family use.

White Cape.— Heads of medium size, close, compact,
and of a creamy white color; one of the most certain to
head.

Purple Cape.— Nearly similar in all respects to the
White Cape, except in color, which is greenish-purple.
This variety is rather hardier than the preceding, but its
color renders it of less value in market. White heads of
the same quality bringing $1 to $2 more per 100. This is
mere matter of fancy in the buyers, however, as when
cooked there is but little difference in its appearance from
the White, and none whatever in the flavor.

Early Walcheren.—This variety seems to produce its
heads earlier than the preceding, but they are not usually
so heavy or compact. This variety so closely resembles
a Cauliflower that it is not easy to say in what respect it
differs from one. In England, where the Broccoli is much
more grown than with us, this variety is sown every few

VEGETABLES—BRUSSELS SPROUTS. loo

weeks, in order to keep up a constant supply. The Eng-
lish catalogues. enumerate some thirty or more varieties,
and each year adds to the list.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS.—(Brassica oleracea. Var.)

This vegetable has never come into general use in this
country, probably owing to its being too tender to stand
the winters of the North-
ern States. Still, by sow-
ing in April or May, and
planting out in July, it
may be had in fine condi-
tion until December; and
in the Southern States,
may be had in use from
November to March. Even
in England, where it is
very extensively grown, it
is not much raised for mar-
ket, being mainly cultivat-
ed for private use. Its
cultivation is very simple,
and it can be grown on
almost any soil. Plant
about 2 feet apart, and

Be 28 ene SEECUTS- cultivate as for Cabbages.

Brussels Sprouts are readily distinguished from all
other varieties of the Cabbage tribe by the sprouts or
buds, about the size of walnuts, which grow thickly around
the stem; these sprouts are the parts used, and are equal
in tenderness and flavor to Cauliflower or Broccoli.

134 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

’ GAULIFLOWER.—(BPrassica oleracea. Vur,)

As we remarked in the chapter on Broccoli, Cauliflower
is mostly grown as a spring or summer crop, and as all
such are more profitable, and consequently of more interest
to the grower than crops maturing in fall, we will give its
culture more at length.

Any soil that will grow early Cabbages, will grow Caul-
iflower, as their requirements are almost similar; but as
the product is more valuable, extra manuring and prepara-
tion of the soil will be well re-paid. In situations where
irrigation could be practised, it would be of great benefit
in dry weather. We have occasionally found, when our beds
were convenient to water, that even watering by hand has
been of advantage. But few or no other crops of our gar-
dens will re-pay that labor. The seeds of Caulifiower,
(that we wish to be ready for market in June), are sown in
the fall previous, between the 10th and 20th of September.
In the course of four or five weeks the plants are trans-
planted into frames, in the manner described in the chapter
headed “‘ Uses and Management of Cold Frames;” but as
they are rather more tender than Cabbage or Lettuce
plants, we find it necessary to have the glass protected by
straw-mats at night during winter. In cases where it is
not convenient or practicable to have the plants thus win-
tered over, they can be had nearly or quite as well by sow-
ing the seed in the hot-bed, or vegetable forcing house, in
January or February, and transplanting the plants to 2 or
3 inches apart in boxes or in the soil of another hot-bed,
until such time as they are safe to be planted in the open
ground, which, with us, is usually from 15th of March to
10th of April. If properly hardened off, they are rarely

VEGETABLES—CAULIFLOWER. 135

injured by being planted out too early. It must be borne
in mind that the plant is nearly hardy, and that 10 or 15
degrees of frost will not injure it, provided it has been
treated as its hardy nature requires, by having been ex-
posed to the air previous to setting out in the open gar:
den. I know that the general practice with amateur hor-
ticulturists is very different from this, and that their usual
time of planting Cauliflower is when they plant Tomatoes,
and in eonsequence, failure is almost universal. The plant,
set out in May, hardly gets root before hot weather sets
in, and if the flower head is developed at all, it is merely
an abortion of what it should be. With me, for the past
four or five years, Cauliflowers have been one of my most
profitable crops. I have during that time grown about
one acre each year, which has certainly averaged $1500.
On one occasion the crop proved almost an entire failure,
owing to unusual drouth in May; while on another oc-
casion, with an unusually favorable season, it sold at nearly
$3000 per acre.

The average price for all planted is about $15 per 160,
and as from 10,000 to 12,000 are grown to the acre, it will
result in nearly the average before named — $1500 per
acre. Unlike Cabbages, however, only a limited number
is yet sold, and I have found that an acre of them has
been quite as much as could be profitably grown in one
garden. Cauliflowers require careful handling to be mar-
keted in good shape; after being trimmed of all surplus
leaves, they are packed in boxes holding about 100 each,
and are generally sold to retailers in this shape, without
being removed from the packages. This early crop is al-
ways sold by the first week of July, allowing plenty time to

136 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

get in second crops of Celery, etc.; but when ‘wanted for
fall or winter use, its treatment is the same in all respects
as that of Broccoli. Like all our market garden products,
we grow only a very limited number of varieties, and these
such as are suited to our climate here; some of the most
popular English sorts being perfectly worthless with us.

Extra Early Dwarf Erfurt,—This fine sort is a dwarf
compact growing kind, producing uniformly large heads ;
the leaves grow more up-
right than in any other
variety ; consequently it can
be planted closer, 24 inches
by 15 inches, while most of
the other sorts require 28 by
18 inches.

Extra Early Paris.—This
well-known variety is equally
meritorious in all respects to
the Erfurt, except that it re-
quires more space to grow in.

Half Early Paris,—A use-
ful variety for a succession
crop. The difficulty with
Cauliflowers for market is, that the whole crop comes in

Fig. 34.—EARLY ERFURT CAULI-
FLOWER.

and must be sold in the space of two weeks, unless we
have a succession of varieties.

Lenormand.— A large late variety, producing well
formed heads of superior quality.

Autumn Giant.—A new English variety, said to be
distinct. The leaves are long and tapering, and the habit

—_

VEGETABLE3S— CABBAGE, 1Sr

of the plant robust, but very upright and compact. The
heads are large and firm and, being protected by the
foliage, remain fit for use longer than any other sort.

OOS

CABBAGE.—Ear.ty.—(Brassica oleracea.)

The early varieties of Cabbage are cultivated more ex-
tensively than any other vegetable we grow. If they
do not occupy a larger number of acres, they certainly
sell for a much larger amount than any other crop. They
are also generally considered to be the most profitable of
all crops of our gardens on congenial soils. Experience
in a great variety of soils in the cultivation of this crop,
shows that what is known as heavy sandy loam, overlay-
ing a porous subsoil, is the best adapted to it. Along the
sea shore, for about one mile inland, we have often an ad-
mixture of oyster and other shells in the soil; wherever
such is found, there, with proper cultivation, Cabbage
can be raised in the highest degree of perfection. The
large amount of lime in the soil, produced by the gradual
' decay of the shell, is not only congenial to the growth of
the Cabbage tribe, but is certainly destructive to the larva
of the insect which is known to produce club-root. In
such soils, where in some instances Cabbages have been
grown for fifty consecutive years, club-root is never seen.
It is plain from this then, that lime is indispensable in the
cultivation of this crop, and that if not naturally found in
the soil, it must be applied. The most profitable applica-
tion, I have found to be the flour of bone; a detail of
some experiments with which will be found in the Chap-
ter on “ Insects.”

1388 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

The preparation of the ground for Cabbage differs im
nothing from that for all the regular market garden crops,
—careful plowing and subsoiling, and manuring with sta-
ble or barn-yard manure when procurable, at the rate of 75
tons per acre, alternating this with guano, etc., in the
quantities named under the head of ‘‘ Manures.”

The early varieties of Cabbage are planted out in spring,
as soon as the ground is dry enough to work; in the lati-
tude of New York, from 15th March to 15th April. The
distance apart is from 24 to 28 inches between the lines,
and 16 inches between the plants in rows. At the same
time that we plant out Cabbage or Cauliflower, between
the lines are planted Lettuce, at 12 inches apart. To
repay such expensive manuring and cultivation, every inch
must be made to tell.

The Lettuce is ready for market by the middle of May,
and is cut off before the Cabbage is large enough to in-
jure it. The ground is now clear of the Lettuce, and the
whole space is occupied by the Cabbages, which are all
sold off before the middle of July; the greater part in
fact by the end of June, which gives the necessary time for
second crops. The raising of the plants is done in various
ways, according to the differences of climate, and also of
the market requirements in different sections. In lati-
tudes where the thermometer never indicates 20° below
the freezing point, Cabbage plants may be sown in the
open border in October, and planted out at the distances
named, on the first opening of spring; but in our North-
ern States, they must either be sown in hot-beds in Feb-
ruary, (see instructions in Chapter on Hot-beds) or what
is still better, wintered over incold frames. For this pur

VEGETABLES—CABBAGE. 139

pose the seed is sown from the 10th to the 20th of Sep-
tember; strict attention to date is important; if too soon,
the plants might run to seed, and if too late, they would
be too small. It may seem to the uninitiated in such
matters, that a few days earlier or later in sowing could
not be material; but all experienced market gardeners
know it to be a fact beyond question, so that here no one
ever begins to sow his seed before the 10th, and the great
majority uniformly sow on the 15th. My own plan is to
sow twice, on the 12th and on the 16th of September, and
I should far rather risk even the 25th than the 5th. Much
depends on the condition ofthe ground. It ought to be mel-
lowed and enriched to the highest possible point by plow-
ing and harrowing, or digging and raking, and well mixed
with a heavy dressing of thoroughly-rotted stable manure,
in quantity when spread sufficient to cover the surface at
least three inches. In absence of stable manure, pure
bone-dust, or dried blood and bone-dust, should be used,
in the ratio of at least one ton to the acre, and, of course,
thoroughly mixed in with soil designed for the sowing of
the cabbage seed. Ground, thus prepared, will in any
season I have ever seen in this vicinity give excellent
plants, fit to “prick out” four weeks after sowing; that
is, if we sow on September 15th, we have plants of just
the right size to “ prick” into the frames by October 15th,
from 500 to 600 being put under a sash 3 by 6 feet. In
planting, it is very important with Cabbage or Cauli-
flower, that the plant is set down to the first leaf, so that
the stem or stalk is all under ground, for we find that if
exposed, it will be split by the action of the frost, and will
be injured in consequence. Instructions regarding win-

140 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

ter treatment, will be found under the head of “Cold
Frames.” I have before stated that, from the extent to
which Early Cabbage is cultivated, it is one of the most
important crops grown. It is also by far the most profit-
able, on a large scale, and no grower here, whose ground
has not been fitted to produce it properly, has ever been
very successful; it requires but little labor, and is always
readily disposed of at profitable rates. At the distance
planted, from 12,000 to 18,000 are grown per acre, the ay-
erage price of which, at wholesale, is $50 per 1000, or
about $600 per acre.

We allude to varieties here with some hesitation, as it
is unquestionable that soil or climate has much to do in
determining the merits of varieties in different localities
As the best that I can do in the matter, I adopt the usual
plan I have adhered to throughout, and place first on the
list those we find to have the greatest general merit.

Jersey Wakefield.—This variety is said to have been
first grown by Francis Brill, then of Jersey City, N. J.,
some thirty odd years ago, from a package of seed receiv-
ed from England under the name of Early Wakefield, and
has been kept in the immediate locality almost ever since.
We have experimented with scores of varieties in that
time, and find nothing equal to it. It is quite a shy seed-
ing sort, and on several occasions enough seed could not
be procured to meet the demands of the growers, and
then it has repeatedly sold as high as $20 per lb., or quite
five times the rate of other sorts. True, we have it quoted
in the English seed lists as low as other varieties, but re-
peated trials of almost every kind named in their cata-
logues too well told us that the Early Wakefield, as we

‘

VEGETABLES—CABBAGE. 141

know it, was no longer procurable in England. The merit
of this variety consists in its large size of head, small out-
side foliage, and its uniformity in producing a crop. The
heads are pyramidal, having a blunted or rounded peak;
color glaucous green. A few years after its introduction
we found that it broke into over a dozen sub-varieties, of
varying size of leaf and
shape of head, and, worse
than all, of varying earli-
ness. No matter how care-
fully we selected the heads
that we used for seed, the
same difficulty occurred. A
few miles inland, somewhere
near the Orange Mountain,
we found that an old Ger-
man was always ahead of

Fig. 35.—sERSEY wakerrenp ‘US in having the first Wake-
SSS fields in New York market,

and these too of a uniformity in shape that none of us
nearer the city could produce. All inducements to get
him to sell seed were disregarded, and year after year he
kept the lead. Several plans were laid to circumvent him,
such as ordering a hundred of his Cabbages with roots on.
But old Carl was not to be caught so; he filled the order
to the letter, making the buyer pay roundly for the roots,
but took the liberty of first dipping them in boiling water!
But one day he invited a friend and countryman to see
his wonderful Cabbages as they grew. This was a fatal
day for Carl’s monopoly, for his friend had his eyes about
him, and observed that seperal of the stumps from which

142 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

the earliest heads had been cut were marked with a stake,
as were a few of the choicest shape, as yet uncut. The
secret was out. Carl’s success had been gained by per-
sistently year after year selecting the earliest and finest
heads; taking up the stumps from which they were cut,
he planted them carefully, and removing the young shoots
produced from the stumps, he treated them exactly as we
treat cuttings of a flower, that is, by planting the slip in
the soil, watering it freely, and shading it until it rooted.
After these cuttings or shoots of the Cabbage were rooted,
they were planted in the usual Cabbage-frame, covered
with glass in winter, set out in spring, like a plant from
the seed, and next July ripened seed. This process is too
expensive and slow to follow for raising Cabbage seed in
quantity, but it is now used by careful growers to produce
pure and improved stock from which to raise seed.

Early York.—This well-known variety is more univer-
sally cultivated than all others; in earliness it is quite
equal to the Wakefield, but is inferior in size, and for
market purposes, with us, would not sell for much more
than half the price of the Wakefield. Heads small,
roundish-oval; color pea-green.

Large York.—Similar to the above, but larger in all its
parts; it is grown to a considerable extent in the South
and South-west.

Early Summer,—An entirely new variety of Early
Cabbage, originated by Mr. Van Siclen, of Long Island,
that is likely to supersede all others for general market
purposes. He has now grown it for the past three years,
but so far the seed has not been put in the market, Mr.
Van 8. being exceedingly cautious not to introduce any

VEGETABLES—CABBAGE. 143

variety before thoroughly proving its merits, The last
season, in company with him, I made an examination of the
crop, and in my opinion it is, take it altogether, the best
Early Cabbage I ever saw. It is perhaps four or five days
later than the Wakefield, but fully one third heavier, and
as it has small outer leaves, may be as closely planted.
When fully matured it will withstand the hottest weather

Fig. 86.—EARLY SUMMER CABBAGE.

without cracking. All market gardeners know the value
of this quality, as most of us have lost heavily from this
cause. ‘The seeds will probably be offered next season.
Early Wyman.—A valuable early variety and a great
favorite in the Boston market. Heads large and fine.
Early Ox Heart.—This, next to the Wakefield, used
to be our favorite market sort. It is equal to it in earli-
ness and size, but not so uniform in heading; for family cul-
ture it is a valuable variety, as it is one of the best in quality.
Early Winningstadt.—Should hardly be claimed as
early, as it is quite three weeks later than any of the
above, but it is an excellent sort where earliness is not an

—*

144 GARDENING FOR PROFIT,

object, as it heads uniformly, and is of large size, often
weighing 20 lbs. It is a very distinct variety ; head pyra-

Fig. 37, EARLY FLAT DUTCH CABBAGE.

midal; the outer leaves spiral and spreading, which re-
quires it to be planted wider than the early sorts. For
this reason, together with its lateness, it is not a favorite
in gardens where two crops are grown in one season.
Early Flat Dutch.—A very dwarf variety with large
round head, almost flat on the top; it is a very excellent
variety for a succession crop, being two or three weeks
behind the earliest sorts. Though not more than 8000 or
9000 can be planted on an acre, yet, as it comes in just
when the glut is over, it rarely sells for less than $12 per
100. Its lateness, however, prevents the getting in of a
second crop, and it is consequently not largely grown.

VEGETABLES—CABBAGE. 145

CABBAGE,.—LaTE.

The manner of cultivating Late Cabbage is not quite
#o expensive as that for Early, and as a consequence, the
receipts for the crop are correspondingly low. In fact, it
is often sold at prices that would not more than repay the
price of manure and labor expended on the early crop. But
as it can be raised with much less manure and labor, and
on land less valuable, it is extensively grown in the neigh-
borhood of all our large cities, rather, however, by farm-
ers than by gardeners. The seed is sown usually in the
early part of May, and the plants set out in July, at dis-
tances of 3 feet between the rows, and 2 feet between the
plants. The crop is almost exclusively worked by the cul-
tivator or plow, one hoeing usually sufficing around the
plants. In-Long Island, N. Y., they are set out in July,
on the ground from which early Potatoes or Peas have
been grown. About 10 tons of stable manure per acre is
usually put in the rows over which the plants are set. The
price averages about $40 per 1000; 6000 or 7000 are
grown per acre, giving an average of, perhaps, $300 to the
acre. Late Cabbage is extensively shipped during the fall
months, from New York to southern ports. The hot and
dry summers there preventing the raising of plants from
seed. Recently, however, some of the growers in Charles:
ton, Savannah, Richmond, and other cities, have discov-
ered that it is more profitable to have the plants grown
North, and to plant them in August or September, and
grow them themselves. Many hundred thousands of
plants of Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Celery, are now an-
nually sent South in August.

The varieties of Late Cabbage are not so numerous as

146 GARDENING FOR PROFIT,

the Early ; the best for general purposes are the following :

Large Bergen Drumhead,—tThe variety grown for the
general crop, it is of the largest size, sometimes almost
cound, though more generally flattened at the top. It is
extremely hardy, and will withstand severe frosts without
injury. In localities where there is not more than 15 or
20 degrees of frost, it can be left out where grown all
winter, but in the Northern States requires the protection
as recommended in the chapter on “ Preservation of Veg-
etables in Winter.”

Premium Flat Dutch.—A very handsome variety, dif
fering from the Drumhead in perfecting its head rather
earlier in the fall, and for that reason is not quite so well
adapted for winter use; it is, however, much grown as an
early fall sort. It is particularly tender, and superior in
flavor to the Drumhead.

Fottler’s Improved Brunswick,—A second easly and
late variety, used by the Boston gardeners, to succeed the
Wyman. It produces large heads of excellent quality.

Marblehead Mammoth Drumhead.—This is probably
the largest variety of Cabbage in cultivation. Specimens
have been grown weighing sixty pounds. In good soil
and with proper culture it will average thirty pounds.
The heads are somewhat irregular in shape, some being
flat, while others are nearly hemispherical. It should be
cultivated with the plants four feet apart each way.

Mason.—Sometimes called Stone Mason, in compliment
to its extreme hardness, I suppose. Is rather a small vas
riety for a late Cabbage, but this enables it to perfect its
head in a short season, and for this reason it is recom:
mended for extreme northern latitudes,

VEGETABLES—CABBAGE. 147

Drumhead Savoy.—This variety is the largest of the
Savoy Class, and is the sort most generally cultivated for
market. The head is large, spherical, very solid and com-
pact, of a yellowish-green; and like all others of the
Savoy varieties, is of excellent flavor, far surpassing that
of any late Cabbage. Still, such is the force of habit, that
the public do not purchase one Savoy for every thousand

f SSE:
—— eee
——

Fig. 88,—DRUMHEAD SAVOY CABBAGE.

of the coarse Drumhead class, although the difference in
quality between the two is as great as between the fox
grape of the woods and a cultivated Delaware.

Green Globe Savoy.—Smaller in all respects than the
preceding, of darker green, the leaves intensely wrinkled.
The compact and rather upright growth of the lower
leaves allows it to be planted quite as close as early Cab-
bage, 24 inches by 18 inches. It is the favorite of all
the varieties for family use.

Red Dutch.—Is used almost exclusively for pickling;

148 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

it is one of the hardiest of all Cabbages, and when pre-
served as directed for the others, will keep later in the
season than any other. It is slow to mature, however,
and requires a ricier soil for its perfect development.

CARDOON.—(Cynara cardunculus.)

A vegetable that is but little grown, and then oftener
as a novelty than for use. It belongs to the same family
as the Artichoke, which it much resembles. The shoots,
after blanching, are used in soups or in salads. It is cul-
tivated by sowing the seeds in early spring, thinly, in rows
3 feet apart, and thinning out to 18 inches between the
plants. The plant attains its growth in early fall, when it
is blanched by tying the leaves together so as to form an
erect growth, after which it is earthed up, and preserved
exactly as we do Celery.

CARROT.—(Daucus Carota.)

This may be classed more as a crop of the farm than
of the garden, as a far larger area is grown for the food
of horses and cattle than for culinary purposes. Yet it is
a salable vegetable in our markets, and by no means an
unprofitable one to grow on lands not too valuable. It is
not necessary that the land for this crop should be highly
enriched. I have grown on sod land, (which had been
turned over in fall), 300 barrels per acre, without a par-

VEGETABLES—CARROT. 149

‘ticle of manure, and three years after, the same land which
had been brought up to our market garden standard
of fertility, a very inferior crop; the land being too
rich, induced a growth of tops rather than roots. In our
market gardens, we sow in rows 14 inches apart, thinning
out to 3 or 4 inches between the plants; but on farm lands
where space is not so valuable, they should be planted 18
or 24 inches between the rows, and worked with the culti-
vator. For early crops, we sow at the beginning of our first
operations in spring, in the same manner as we sow Beets,
as soon as the ground is thoroughly dry; but for later
crops, they may be sown any time, in this latitude, until
the middle of June. This is one of the vegetables that re-
quire a close watching, to see that it does not get envelop-
ed with weeds, as in its early stage it is of comparatively
feeble growth, and unless it is kept clean from the start,
it is apt to get irrevocably injured.

The usually prescribed quantity of seed per acre is 5 lbs.,
but I have always considered it safer to sow nearly double
that quantity. In dry weather it germinates feebly, and
not unfrequently, when seed comes up thinly, it is scorched
off by the hot sun, and the saving of a few pounds of
seed may entail the loss of half the crop. We prefer to
sow all such crops by hand.

The Carrot, like all other root crops, delights in a sandy
loam, deeply tilled. Considerable quantities of the early
varieties are sold, in our markets, in bunches, in a half
grown state, at prices equal to early Beets sold in the same
manner. Sold in this state, they are highly profitable at
the prices received, but only limited quantities can be dis-
posed of. In the dry state, during fall and winter, they

150

GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

range from $1.50 to $2.50 per barrel, according to quality,
and at these prices will yield double the profit of Pota-
toes, as a farm crop.

The varieties in general cultivation are limited. The
favorite variety for all purposes is the

=
z

Fig. 39.—.Lone
ORANGE CARROT. jn hot-beds or forcing house, its small
foliage and short root, not unlike the Turnip Radish in
shape, rendering it especially suitable for growing under
glass. It is not yet very generally grown for market,thus
forced, but what few have been grown, were quickly sold

Long Orange.—This is equally adapted
for garden or farm culture; it is of large
size, fair specimens averaging 12 inches in
length, with a diameter of 3
inches at the top ; color orange-
red, varying in depth of shade
in different soils.

Early Horn.— An old and
favorite sort for an early crop,
but not large enough to be
suitable for general culture.
It is the variety that is sold in

our markets bunched up in the
green state. It matures its root

Fig.40—EARLY
HORN CARROT.

the preceding. It is also more tender, and

eight or ten days earlier than

is more valued than any other for culinary
use. It may be grown closer than the
Long Orange, as its foliage is much shorter.

Early French Horn.—Used for forcing

VEGETABLES—CHERVIL—CELERY, lal

at most profitable rates, $12 for the products of a 3x6
sash, or about 5 cents a piece.

White Belgian. — This is the most productive of all
known varieties; the lower part of the root is white, that
growing above the ground, and exposed to the air, green.

It is exclusively grown for stock, bearing nearly twice
as much weight per acre as the Long Orange, Horses do
not eat it quite so readily, however, and it is said to be
less nutritious than the Red or Orange sorts.

CHERVIL.—Tvurnrr-R00TeD.—(Cherophyllum bulbosum.)

A vegetable of recent introduction, closely allied to the
Parsnip, which it resembles in shape. It is of a grayish
color; the flesh is white and mealy, tasting something like
the Sweet Potato. It is equally as hardy as the Parsnip,
and in France, where it has been cultivated to a consider-
able extent, is said to have yielded 6 tons per acre. It is
one of the many plants that were experimented with in
Europe as a substitute for the Potato, when it was feared
that that root would be lost to us by disease. Its culture
is in all repects similar to the Parsnip or Carrot; it is en-
tirely hardy in any latitude, and is rather improved by the
action of the frost. It must be sown as early in spring
as the soil is fit to work, it being slow to germinate if the
weather becomes hot and dry.

ee ee

CELERY.—(Apium graveolens.)

I know of no vegetable on the cultivation of which
there is so much useless labor expended with such unsatis-

152 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

factory results, as Celery. Almost all private cultivators
still think it necessary to dig out trenches, from 6 to 12
inches deep, involving great labor and expense, and giv-
ing a very inferior crop to that planted on the level sur-
face, in the manner practised on hundreds of acres by the
market gardeners in the vicinity of New York.

Our manner of treating the Celery crop, of late years,
is very much simplified. Instead of sowing the seed in a
hot-bed or cold frame, as formerly, it is sown in the open
ground as soon as the ground is fit to work in spring—
here about first week in April—on a level piece of rich
mellow soil, that has been specially prepared by thorough
pulverizing and mixing with short stable manure. The
bed being fined Gown by raking so that it is clear of stones
and all inequalities, lines are drawn out by the “marker”
8 or 9 inches apart, in beds of 8 rows in a bed, rubbing
out every 9th line for an alley, on which to walk when
weeding, ete. The seed should be sown rather thinly,
one ounce being sufficient for every 20 feet in length of
such a bed. After sowing, the bed should be rolled, or
patted down with a spade, which will give the seed suf’
ficient covering.

As soon as the seeds of Celery begin to germinate, so
that the rows can be traced, hoe lightly between the rows,
and begin to pull out the weeds as soon as they can be
seen. One day’s work, at the proper time, will be better
than a dozen after the seed bed gets enveloped with
weeds, besides ensuring much finer plants.

As the plants advance in growth, the tops are shorn off,
generally twice before the time of setting out, so as to in-

oo: + tee &

VEGETABLES—CELERY. 153

duce a stocky growth; plants thus treated suffer less on
being transplanted.

The time of planting out in the Northern States may
run from June 15th to the end of July, and in the South-
ern States from August 15th to the end of September. In
this section we prefer to plant in July, as there is but
little gained by attempting it early. In fact, I have often
seen plants raised in hot-beds and planted out in June,
far surpassed both in size and quality by those raised in
the open ground and planted a month later. The great
difficulty experienced in the Southern States is in raising
the plants; for if sown in March or April, as we do here,
the high temperature and dry atmosphere either kill the
plants outright, or so shrivel them up that they never
start to make a free growth. There is no way of obviat-
ing the difficulty, unless by getting the plants grown at
the North to be sent South. But Celery plants grown at
the North at the usual season would not answer, as they
would become so large that they would require to be
planted out before the end of July, and in most of the
Southern States, if planted then, they could not stand the
long continued high temperature and dry atmosphere of
August and September. For Celery plants, grown at the
North for Southern planting, the seed should not be sown
before the end of May, which would delay their fitness to
plant until August or September; this would no doubt
answer well, as the genial growing weather of October,
November, and December, in many parts of the South,
would be well adapted to their growth. It is doubtful
if this special growing of plants is likely to be done, and
our friends at the South must submit to paying us for our

154 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

Celery already grown, just as we must submit to have the
cream of our profits taken off by their early supply of
spring vegetables. It is a geographical condition of cul-
ture that both sections must accept. In almost all the
early vegetables the first supplies come from southern
gardens, thus anticipating our crops by some weeks;
while Celery is one of the very few things with which
we can compete with our southern friends in their own
markets. Celery is a plant requiring a cool, moist
atmosphere, and it is nonsense to attempt to grow it early,
in our hot and dry climate; and even when grown, it is
not a vegetable that is ever very palatable until cool
weather. This our market experience well proves, for al-
though we always have a few bunches exposed for sale in
August and September, there is not one root sold then for
a thousand that are sold in October and November. Cel-
ery is always grown as a “second crop” by us, that is, it
follows after the spring crop of Beets, Onions, Cabbage,
Cauliflower, or Peas, which are cleared off and marketed,
at latest, by the middle of July; the ground is then thor-
oughly plowed and harrowed. No additional manure is
used, as enough remains in the ground, from the heavy
coat it has received in the spring, to carry through the
crop of Celery. After the ground has been nicely pre-
pared, lines are struck out on the level surface, 3 feet
apart, and the plants set 6 inches apart in the rows. If
the weather is dry at the time of planting, great care
should be taken that the roots are properly “ firmed.”
Our custom is, to turn back on the row, and press by the
side of each plant gently with the foot. This compacts
the soil and partially excludes the air from the root until

VEGETABLES—CELERY. 155

new rootlets are formed, which will usually be in forty-
eight hours, after which all danger is over. This practice
of pressing the soil closely around the roots is essential in
planting of all kinds, and millions of plants are annually
destroyed by its omission. After the planting of the Cel-
ery is completed, nothing further is to be done for six or
seven weeks, except running through between the rows
with the cultivator or hoe, and freeing the plants of weeds

until they get strong enough to crowd them down. This
will bring us to about the middle of August, by which

time we usually have that moist and cool atmosphere es-
sential to the growth of Celery. Then we begin the “ earth-
ing up,” necessary for blanching or whitening that which
is wanted for use during the months of September, Octo-
ber, and November. The first operation is that of ‘ hand-
ling,” as we term it, that is, after the soil has been drawn
up against the plant with the hoe, it is further drawn close
around each plant by the hand, firm enough to keep the
leaves in an upright position and prevent them from
spreading, which will leave them as shown in fig. 41.

156 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

This being done, more soil is drawn against the row, (either
by the plow or hoe, as circumstances require), so as to
keep the plant in this upright position. . The blanching
process must, however, be finished by the spade, which is
done by digging the soil from between the rows and
banking it up clear to the top on each side of the row of
Celery, as in fig. 42 Three feet is ample distance be-
tween the dwarf varieties, but when “‘Seymour’s Superb,”

“‘ Giant,” or other large sorts are used, the width between
the rows must be at least 44 or 5 feet, which entails much
more labor and loss of ground. For the past eight years
I have grown none but the dwarf varieties, and have saved
in consequence at least one-half in labor, and one-third in

ground, while the average price per root in market has
been always equal and occasionally higher than for the
tall growing sorts.

My neighbors around me have at last got their eyes
opened to the value of the dwarf sorts, and I think that
a few years more will suffice to throw the large and coarse-

a

i ae

VEGETABLES—CELERY. 157

flavored sorts, such as “‘ Seymour’s Superb,” and “ Giant,”
gut of our markets.

The preparation of the soil and planting of Celery for
winter use, is the same in all repects, except that, what is
intended for winter need never be “ banked up” with the
spade. It merely requires to be put through the handling
process, to put it in a compact and upright position pre-
paratory to being stowed away in winter quarters. This
should not be done before the middle of September, or
just long enough before the Celery is dug up, to keep it
in the upright position.

We have, however, another method which we have
found to answer very well for the late crop, and it is one
by which more roots can be grown on the same space
and with less labor than by any other. It is simply to
plant the Celery 1 foot apart, each way, nothing farther be-
ing required after planting, except twice or thrice hoeing
to clear the crop of weeds until it grows enough to cover
the ground. No handling or earthing up is required by
this method, for, as the plants struggle for light, they nat-
urally assume an upright position, the leaves all assuming
the perpendicular instead of the horizontal, which is the
condition essential before being put in winter quarters.
This method is not quite so general with us as planting in
rows, and it is perhaps better adapted for private gardens
than for market; as the plant is more excluded from the
air, the root hardly attains as much thickness as by the
other plan.

Our manner of preserving it during winter is now very
simple, but as the knowledge of the process is yet quite
local, being confined almost exclusively to the Jersey

158 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

market gardeners, I will endeavor to put it plain enough,
so that my readers “may go and do likewise.” In this
locality we begin to dig up that which we intend for win-
ter use about the end of October, and continne the work
(always on dry days) until the 20th or 25th of November
which is as late as we dare risk it out for fear of frost
Let it be understood that Celery will stand quite a sharp
frost, say 10 or even 15 degrees, while 20 or 25 degrees
will destroy it. Hence experience has taught us, that the
sharp frosts that we usually have during the early part of
November, rarely hurt it, though often causing it to droop
flat on the ground, until thawed out by the sun. It must,
however, never be touched when in the frozen state, or it
is almost certain to decay. The ground in which it is
placed for winter use should be as dry as possible, or if
not dry, so arranged that no water will remain in the
trench. The trench should be dug as narrow as possible,
not more than 10 or 12 inches wids, and of the depth ex-
actly of the hight of the Celery; that is, if the plant of
the Celery be 2 feet in length, the depth of the drain or
trench should be 2 feet also. The Celery is now placed in
the trench as near perpendicular as possible, so as to fill it
up entirely, its green tops being on a level with the top
of the trench. Figure 48 represents a section across a
trench filled with Celery in the manner just described.
No earth whatever is puf, to the roots other than what
may adhere to them after being dug up. It being closely
packed together, there is moisture enough always at the
bottom of the trench to keep this plant, at the cool season
of the year, from wilting. That which is put in trenches
about the 25th of October, is usually ready to be taken

VEGETABLES—CELERY. 159

up for use about the 1st of December, that a couple of
weeks later, by Ist January, and the last (which we try
always to defer to 15th or 20th November) may be used
during the winter and until the Ist of April. For the
first lot, no covering is required, but that for use during '
the winter months, must be gradually covered up, from the
middle of December, on until 1st of January, when it will
require at least a foot of covering of some light, dry ma-
terial—hay, straw, or leaves—the latter perhaps the best

Fig. 43,—-CELERY STORED FOR WINTER.

I have said the covering up should be gradual. This is
very important, for if the full weight of covering is put on
at once, it prevents the passing off of the heat generated by
the closely packed mass of Celery, and in consequence it
to some extent “heats,” and decay takes place. Covered
up in this manner, it can be got out with ease, during the
coldest weather in winter, and with perfect safety. These
dates of operations, like all others named throughout, are
for this latitude; the cultivator must use his judgment
carefully in this matter, to suit the section in which he is
located.

160 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

For market gardeners and others who have large quan-
tities this is the best method of storing; but for smaller
growers, either for sale or for private use, quite a quantity
may be preserved in any cellar where there is no furnace
or other fire heat. When a few hundred roots only are
to be stored it can be placed in narrow boxes, say 9 inches
wide, 4 or 6 feet in length, and of a depth a little less than
the height of the Celery. A few inches of sand or soil is
placed on the bottom, and the Celery is packed in the box
upright, the roots being placed on the sand at the bottom ;
the Celery must be packed in as tight as possible, but
without bruising. Boxes thus packed and stood on the cool
floor of the cellar, if put away in November, will be “ blanch-
ed” fit for use during January, February, and March. If
put in sooner than November it will blanch earlier, and if
stored later it will keep later. If larger quantities are to
be kept in the cellar, the cheapest practicable way to do
so is to begin at one side next the wall, furthest from the en-
trance, and erect boards across the cellar, 9 inches from
the wall, and of a hight a little less than the length of
the Celery—that is, if the Celery is 24 inches in length,
the boarding ntay be 18 or 20 inches high. In this nar-
row division the Celery is packed in upright, as above de-
scribed for packing in boxes. As soon as the first tier is
filled, erect another board trench or division at 9 inches
distant from the first, and so on until the whole space re-
quired is filled up. It will be understood that no soil or
sand is packed between the stalks of Celery, only two or
three inches being strewn on the floor, on which the roots
are placed. A cellar or root-house so packed, 20 by 20
feet, will hold from 3,000 to 5,000 roots of Celery, accord-

VEGETABLES—CELERY, 161

ing to their size. Care must be taken not to get the board
partitions forming the trenches or divisions between the
tiers of Celery more than 9 or 10 inches apart, for if at
much greater distance the stems and leaves would be in
too large masses and would generate heat and rot.

As the cellar or root-house is usually a damp and dark
apartment there will generally be no necessity to water
the Celery after it is packed. Every means of ventilation
should be used, even in cold weather, for it must always
be borne in mind that Celery is a vegetable that will stand
quite a severe frost without injury, so if the tempera-
ture of the cellar falls 5 or 6 degrees below the freezing
point, no injury will be done. When Celery or other veg-
etables are packed away for preservation in cellars or in
the open field, it is indispensable that no water be allowed
to lodge in the pit or trench; so that in the event of using
a cellar or root-house for this purpose, a matter of first
importance is thorough drainage, in soils where drainage
is necessary. 2

Regarding the profits of this crop I can speak from a
very extensive experience in its culture, having cultivated
an average of ten acres for the past eighteen years. For
many years, in the early part of that time, it was, by no
means, what we would now call a profitable crop. By
persisting in raising the large growing sorts, and the awk:
ward and expensive mode we had then of working it, we
were satisfied if it gave us a profit of $50 or $75 per acre.
But for the last six or eight years, by adopting the flat
culture, and the drain or trench system for winter storage,
it has done much better, and is now a very profitable
“second crop,” averaging a clear profit of $300 per acre,

“

162 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

though it rarely brings over $3 per 100 roots. No doubt,
in many parts of the country, it would be much more prof-
itable than in the crowded markets of New York. It is
shipped from here in all directions; to Philadelphia (large-
ly), Baltimore and Washington, (South), and to New.
port, Providence, Hartford and New Haven, (East). It is
a bulky and expensive article to ship, and the dealer must
realize more than double on the purchase, or it will not
pay his risk. It must thus cost the consumer, in these
towns to which we send it, 8 or 10 cents a head, a price at
which it would pay a clear profit of $1000, or $1500 per
acre.

If the awkward and laborious systems of cultivation
still persisted in for the growséng of Celery, is a mistake, the
continued use of the tall growing and coarse varieties,
_we believe to be even a far greater one. The kinds that
are offered in European catalogues are many, but in the
whole list there are but few that are desirable for the
market gardener or for private gardens. The climate of
England is much more favorable to the growth of Celery
than that of our country, and every year new varieties
are offered there, of which only now and then one proves
of permanent value, but with the majority, the differences
are mainly in the name. The following are all the kinds
that we have found especially valuable.

Henderson’s Dwarf White.—After cultivating this for
several years we rank it as decidedly one of our very best
varieties; under good cultivation it attains a hight of
2 feet, and a circumference of 12 inches; it is perfectly
solid, the stalks half round, the leaves and stems being
rather light green. When blanched, it is a yellowish-

VEGETABLES—CELERY. 163

white, crisp, tender, and of a most agreeable nutty flavor.
The great advantage of this, and other dwarf sorts, over
the large kinds, is, that nearly every part of the plant is
fit to eat when blanched; for instance if in the dwarf va-
rieties the length is only 2 feet, and in large sorts 8 feet,
the extra length of the large sort is unfit for use, being
usually only an elongation of the outer leaves, the heart
or edible part rarely rising more than 18 mches in the
large sorts, while the dwarf sorts may be said to be all
heart. This variety, for fall use, is planted 3 feet be-
tween the rows, by 6 inches between the plants, or nearly
27,000 roots per acre. For winter use, when it does not
require to be “banked,” we plant 2 feet between rows,
and 6 inches between plants, or about 40,000 roots per acre.

Sandringham Dwarf White.— An improvement on
the variety above named, being much larger in all its
parts. It is simply a stock selected from the other, being
identical with it in all respects except in size,

Boston Market,—A variety very similar to the above,
but rather more robust, though a dwarf variety; the leaves
are darker green, the stalks when blanched nearly white;
it is solid, crisp, and tender; an excellent variety.

Hood’s Dwarf Red.—A variety similar in all respects
to the “Dwarf White,” except in color of the stalks,
which are of a rosy crimson. Although the flavor of the
red varieties of Celery is acknowledged to be superior to
the white, and the appearance, when blanched, certainly
far richer, yet, for some unexplained reason, they do not
so readily sell in our markets. In the London markets,
about equal quantities of each are sold.

Seymour’s Superb.—The best of the large-growing

164 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

sorts, attaining a hight, under good culture, of 3 feet. It
should never be planted closer than 4 feet between the

rows, or it cannot: be worked properly. For southern sec-

tions of the country, this variety is more suitable than the

dwarfs, as it grows freer in a hot and dry atmosphere.

CELERIAC, OR TURNIP-ROOTED CELERY.

(Apium graveolens.

S
BES IE

fi NIN
\

Fig. 44.—CELERIAC.

Is grown from
seeds sown in the
same manner, and
planted out at the
same seasons as
dirécted for Cel-
ery; but asit re-
quires but a slight
earthing up, it is
planted closer
than ordinaryCel-
ery, 18 inches be-
tween the rows
and 6. inches be-
tween the plants.
It is preserved for
winter use in shal-
low trenches, and
covered up, as
the season ad-
vances, as direct-

ed for Celery. It

VEGETABLES—CHIVES—CORN SALAD—CRESS. 165 -

is as yet grown to but a limited extent here, being used
only by the French and Germans. The Turnip-like root
is cooked, or it is sliced and used with vinegar, making a

most excellent salad.
RO

CHIVES.—(Allium Schenoprasum.)

A small bulbous-rooted plant of the Onion tribe, en-
tirely hardy and of the easiest culture, as it will grow on
almost any soil for many years without renewal. It is
propagated by division of the root, and may be planted at
9 or 10 inches apart; the leaves are the parts used, which
may be repeatedly shorn off during the early summer
months. They are sometimes used in soups, but more
generally in the raw state.

Oe

CORN SALAD, OR FETTICUS,—(Pedia olitoria.)

A vegetable used as a salad, and sold to a consider
able extent in our markets. It is sown on the first open-
ing of spring, in rows 1 foot apart, and is fit for use in six
or eight weeks from time of sowing. If wanted to come
in early in spring, it is sown in September, covered up
with straw or hay, as soon as cold weather sets in, and is
wintered over exactly as Spinach. The covering is re-
moved in March or April when it starts to grow, and is
one of our first green vegetables in spring.

CRESS, OR PEPPER GRASS.—(Lepidium sativum.)
Another early spring vegetable, used as a salad, and of
casy culture. It is sown in early spring in rows 1 foot

166 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

apart; as it runs quickly to seed, succession sowings
should be made every eight or ten days. There are sev
eral varieties, but the kind in general use is the Curled,
which answers the purpose of garnishing as well as for
salads.

CRESS—WATER.—(Nasturtium officinale.)

This is a well-known hardy perennial aquatic plant,
growing abundantly along the margins of running streams,
ditches, and ponds, and sold in immense quantities in our
markets in spring. Where it does not grow naturally, it
is easily introduced by planting along the margins of ponds
or streams, where it quickly increases, both by spreading of
the root and by seeding. Many a farmer, in the vicinity
of New York, realizes more profit from the Water Cress-
es, cut from the margin of a brook running through his
farm, in two or three weeks in spring, than from his
whole year’s hard labor in growing Corn, Hay, or Potatoes.

Water Cress can be best cultivated in places where the
streams run through a level tract. Supposing the stream
to be a foot deep on an average and six or eight feet wide,
running through a meadow, a good plan for cultivation is
to make excavations laterally—say in beds 5 feet wide
(with alleys between 5 feet), to adepth of about 8 inches,

or deep enough to be flooded by the stream when it is of
average height or when shallow, by damming it up so as
to flood the beds.

The advantage of having the beds excavated at right
angles to the stream rather than parallel with it is, that in

VEGETABLES—CRESS, 167

the event of freshets the crop is less liable to be washed
away. The length and number of the beds excavated,
must, of course, be determined by circumstances. Water-
cress seeds germinate freely in earth when kept saturated;
hence the beds when properly levelled and pulverized by
digging and raking should be slightly flooded—enough to
saturate the soil only until the seeds germinate—for, of
course, if the beds were filled up with water the seeds
would be washed off. After the seedlings have started so
as to show green, the water may be gradually let on as
they develop. Probably the best time of sowing the seed
would be, for the latitude of New York, about the middle
of August. When Water Cress is found growing natur-
ally the beds can be made by setting the plants six or
twelve inches apart each way. When the cultivation is
once fairly begun there is no difficulty about forming new
beds, as few plants grow more rapidly when proper con-
ditions are present. If the crop is planted or sown the
middle of August, it will have spread all over the beds by
November. The streams being full in autumn the beds
will be fully flooded so as to protect the plants during
winter. It is always found wild growing best in clear,
shallow, slowly-running water with a sandy or gravelly
bottom ; and as nature is always the surest guide to
successful cultivation, the nearer it can be imitated the
better the success. I find it is one of the plants the cul-
ture of which is not very easy to give by writing, as so
much must be determined by the circumstances of locality.
Wherever a suitable stream is at command the experiment
of growing Water Cress is worth trial, especially
when we know that it, in many cases, pays fora given

168 GARDENING FOR PROFIT,

area six or eight times more than any other vegetable cul-
tivated, provided it can be sold in the markets of New
York or Philadelphia.

It is usually sold in baskets containing about 3 quarts,
which sell, when first in market, at $1 each; 200 or 300
such are carried in an ordinary wagon, so that from a sin-
gle load of this simple vegetable, $200 to $300 are realiz-
ed. The Water Cress has a particularly pleasant pungent
taste, agreeable to most people in early spring.

It is said, that when Sir Joseph Banks first arrived in
England after his voyage around the world, among the
first things he asked for were Water Cresses, well know-
ing their value as a purifier of the blood; and that he af-
terwards presented one of the largest Water Cress grow-
ers for the London market a Banksian Medal, for energy
shown in the business, believing that while he had benefit-
ed himself, he had benefited the community. I have no
doubt whatever, that, in situations where irrigation could
be used at pleasure, and regular plantations made as for
Cranberries, that, grown in this way,—judging from the
enormous price they sell at, picked up ax they are in the
present hap-hazard way—at present prices, an acre would
sell for $4000 or $5000,

COLEWORT, OR COLLARDS,—(Brassica oleracea.)
Collards, as grown in this country, are nothing more than
sowings of any early variety of Cabbage, in rows about
one foot apart, which are cut off for use when 6 or 8

, YEGETABLES—CORN. 169

inches high. Spring sowings may be made every two
weeks from April to June; and in fall from September, as
late as the season will admit. I have never seen them
sold in our markets.

CORN.—(Zea Mays.)

The varieties known as “Sweet,” are the sorts most
cultivated for culinary use in the green state. It may be
either sown in rows 4} feet apart, and the seeds planted at
8 or 9 inches in the rows, or planted in hills at distances
of 3 or 4 feet each way, according to the variety grown
or the richness of the soil in which it is planted. The
taller the variety, or richer the soil, the greater should be
the distance apart. The soil best suited for Corn, for an
early crop, is a well enriched sandy loam. The planting
should never be done until the weather is settled and
warm, as heat is indispensable to the healthy growth of
Corn. We make our first plantings, in this vicinity, about
the middle of May, and continue succession plantings ev-
ery two or three weeks until the first week in July, which
date is the latest at which we can plant and be sure of a crop
of “roasting ears.” In more southerly latitudes, planting
is begun a month earlier, and continued a month later.
The crop is not profitable enough for the market garden,
but the farmers realize double the price for Sweet Corn
when sold in the green state in our markets, that they do
for ripe Corn, besides, as the ground can be cleared when
thus sold in August, it can be used afterwards for Turnips.

About a dozen years ago I came into possession, about
the Ist of May, of a four-acre plot that had lain for many

170 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

years in sod. It was then too late to be able to break it
up for planting any of the finer kinds of vegetables; so I
decided to plant it with Sweet Corn. Accordingly, I had
the sod plowed over flat in such a manner as would best
rot it. I was careful to have the furrows straight, and at
every five feet, where they lapped together, I dropped
Sweet Corn at four or five inches apart, so that when it
started to grow it stood in regular lines five feet distant.
The Corn was planted about May 20th, and hoed around
the line as it grew, the space between being run over by
the harrow cultivator. By the middle of June, from the
action of the cultivator, the space between the rows of
Corn was in fine friable condition, and Celery was planted
in double rows, ten inches apart. The shade given by
the Corn was of no injury to the Celery at this early stage
of its growth, and as the Corn crop was sold, and the
stalks were cleared off by the middle of August, the
growth of the Celery was not in the slightest impaired.
The whole transaction was quite satisfactory; the Corn
crop sold (green) for about $600, or $150 per acre. The
‘Celery, at about $400 per acre, which was exceedingly
low, not much more than one cent per root for every root
planted. In some subsequent years, the price would have
trebled that for the same quantity. No fertilizer was used,
except a slight sprinkling of bone-dust for the Celery, A
profit of from $50 to $100 is said to be realized per acre
from Sweet Corn. The best known varieties are:

Early Narragansett.—This is one of the earliest varie-
ties. The ears are quite small, seldom being more than five
inches in length; eight or tenrowed. It is tender and of
fine flavor, and is recommended as a first early variety,

VEGETABLES—CORN. 171

Early Darling, or Eight-rowed,—Early, of good size,
and under good cultivation, averages three ears on
each stalk. It is tender and sweet. Asit is rather dwarf
growing, it need never be planted more than 3 feet apart.

Dwarf Early Sugar.—This variety rarely grows more
than 4 or 5 feet in hight, suckering up from the main
stem, often five or six shoots—which bear an average of
two ears each; these, however, are small, not more than
5 or 6 inches in length, and quite slender. It is too small
for market purposes, but is the most valuable variety
grown for family use, being early, tender, sweet, and
productive. We prefer to grow this variety in rows 3
feet apart, and 1 foot between the plants.

Crosby’s Early Sugar.—A variety highly esteemed in
the Boston Market. Ears rather short; from twelve to six-
teen rows; productive and of good quality.

Mammoth Sweet.—A late variety, and one of the largest. .
Ears twelve to sixteen rowed; productive and fine flavored.

Stowell’s Evergreen.—Also a late variety, having the
peculiarity of remaining longer in the green state than
any other sort; on this account it is very popular.

Asylum Sugar.—A large late variety of tall growth,
used to succeed the earlier sorts; it is productive, and has
every desirable quality except earliness. Should be
planted in hills 4 feet by 3.

Most persons who raise Sweet Corn for market have a
favorite variety, or rather strain of their own. By care-
fully selecting for seed each year those ears that have de-
sirable peculiarities most strongly marked, a strain is soon
established especially suited to the locality. Of course
great care must be taken to prevent contamination by

172 GARDENING FOR PROFIT,

pollen from other varieties of Sweet Corn as well as by that
of Field Corn. The fodder from a crop of Sweet Corn is
an important item to the farmers who raise it, and this
has not been taken into account in the above estimate of
profits. As the corn is picked green, the stalks still con-
tain much nutriment, and if well cured, are about as val-
uable as the same weight of hay.

CUCUMBER.—(Cucumis sativus.)

The growing of the Cucumber out-of-doors is, in most
places, attended with a great deal of annoyance and
loss, occasioned by the attacks of the “Striped Bug.”
When the seed is sown in the open ground, repeated sow-
ings are often utterly destroyed by this pest, despite of
all remedies. To avoid this, and at the same time tc
forward the crop at least a week, we have long adopted
the following method, with the greatest success. About
the middle of May, (for this section), we cut from a pas-
ture lot, sods from 2 to 8 inches thick, these are placed with
the grassy sidé down, either on the benches of our forcing
house, in an exhausted hot-bed, or inside of a cold frame;
at that season of the year any one of these will do as
well as another. The sods being fitted together neatly
so that all crevices are filled up; they are then cut into
squares about 3 or 4 inches in length and breadth; on each
of these are planted 2 or 3 seeds of Cucumber, and over
the whole is sifted about half an inch of covering of some
light rich mold. They are then sprinkled thoroughly from

VEGETABLES—CUCUMBER. 173

a Rose Watering-pot, and the sashes put on, and kept close
until the seeds begin to germinate, which will be in three
or four days. As soon as they are up, the sashes must be
raised to admit air, else the sun’s rays, acting on the glass,
would raise the temperature too high; at that season of
the year the sashes, as a rule, may be tilted up at 8 or 9
o’clock in the morning, and shut down by 8 or 4 o’clock
in the afternoon. By the time the Cucumber plants have
attained two or three of their rough leaves, which will be
in about three weeks from the time of sowing, they are
planted out in the open ground in hills 3 feet apart each
way. The hills should have been previously prepared, by
mixing thoroughly with the soil in each, a shovelful of
well-rotted manure.

It is always better to plant in the afternoon, rather than
during the early part of the day, as the coolness and mois-
ture at night, enable the plants to recuperate from the ef-
fects of removal. If the weather is hot and dry, it is safer
to give each hill a thorough watering once, immediately
after planting. I have recommended sods in preference to
flower-pots for starting the Cucumbers, inasmuch as they
are not only procurable in all places, but our experience
.8, uhat the sod is even better than the flower-pot; it better
retains moisture, and there is a freshness about sod in
which the roots of all plants love to revel, and which no
composts we can prepare can ever equal. It will be seen
that the expense of growing Cucumbers, in this manner, is «
considerable; to grow enough for an acre—about 5000
hills—it will require the use of at least 20, 3x6 sashes, and
the preparation ‘of the sod, and attention in airing, etc.,
until they are fit to plant, will involve ten times more ex-

L774 GARDENING FOR PROF{T.

pense than simply sowing the seed in the hills; but all
such expenditures are well returned, for it is safe to say,
that the profits would always be at least three times more
by this plan than by the other. The average receipts are
$750 per acre; working expenses probably $250, and the
crop is off in time for Turnips or Spinach as a second crop.

The Cucumber is a vegetable perhaps better fitted than
any other for southern market gardeners, There is no
doubt, that by the forwarding process above described, it
could be got in marketable condition in the neighborhood
of Charleston or Savannah, at least a month before it
could in New York, and as it is one of the easiest things
we have to ship, a profitable business could be made of
growing it to send North. The profits on an acre of Cu-
cumbers, grown by this method in Charleston, and sold in
New York in June, would, I think, exceed the average
profits of fifty acres of Cotton.

Cucumbers are also extensively grown for pickling;
hundreds of acres being used for this purpose in the vi-
cinity of New York, especially in Westchester County.
Sod or stubble land, plowed in early fall, and again turned
over twice or thrice in spring, is the condition of soil usn-
ally chosen. The ground is marked out as for Corn, 4
feet each way, and a good:shovelful of well-rotted manure,
dug in at the angle which forms the hill; the seed is sown—
about a dozen in each hill—usually about the 20th of June,
but equally good crops can be obtained by sowings made
as late as the middle of July. The average price of late
years has been $1.50 per 1000, and the number grown per
acre on properly cultivated lands, is 150,000, which is $225
gross receipts per acre. The expense of raising are said

VEGETABLES—CUCUMBER. 175

to be about one-half. These profits would not satisfy the
market gardener on his few valuable acres near the city,
but, no doubt, are remunerative enough to the farmers,
with large quantities of cheap land.

The varieties are numerous, and embrace many very
well marked kinds. The large growing kinds that attain
2 feet or more in length, have never become favorites in
our American markets.

White Spined.—Belongs to the short growing section,
is of medium size, from 6

to 8 inches in length and

2 to 3 inches in diameter;

Fig. 45,—wuite-sprnep cucumsrr. lt is a very handsome va-
riety, deep green, flesh crisp, and of fine flavor. The va-

riety almost exclusively grown for market in New York.

Early Russian.—This is the earliest variety, coming
into use about ten days before the Early Cluster, which
it resembles in some respects, but is smaller and shorter.
The fruit is generally produced in pairs, and is from three
to four inches long, hardy, productive, and well flavored.
One of the best varieties for private gardens.

Early Frame.—A very handsome small-growing vari-
ety, rarely exceeding 5 inches in length, and has fewer
spines than the preceding. It is often a question whether
this or the White Spined is more desirable, so that of late
years we have grown about an equal quantity of each for
forcing or forwarding under glass.

Early Cluster.—A much esteemed early variety, grow-
ing in clusters and extremely productive; its color is blue-
ish-green, shading lighter at the extremities.

Long Green Prickly.—This is a large-sized variety,

176 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

growing about a foot in length, and is somewhat later
than the White Spine. It is a good variety for the table,
and makes an excellent pickle if gathered while young.
Fruit dark green, firm and crisp.

Small Gherkin, or Burr.—This variety, used exclu-
sively for pickling, is a species distinct from the com-
mon Cucumber; it is very small, length from 2 to 3 inches;
a strong growing sort, and should be planted 5 feet apart.

Og eee

EGG PLANT.—(Solanum Melongena.)

The cultivation of the Egg Plant, from its extreme ten-
derness, is, in its early stage, attended perhaps with more
trouble than any vegetable of our gardens. A native of
Tropical America, it at all times requires a high tempera-
ture; for this reason, in this latitude, the seeds had better
not be sown in the hot-bed until first week in April, and
ever then a steady bottom heat is necessary to a healthy
development, and there should be warm covering at night
over the sashes. I have always found that in tender
plarts of this kind, there was nothing gained by starting
early, even though by great care the plants are carried
through the cold season. By the time they can be planted
in the open ground, about June first, those started first
of March, would be no larger than those started -first of
April, besides being harder both in roots and leaves, in
which condition they are far inferior to the younger plants
that have been raised with less than half the labor,

A correspondent from an inland town writes that, for
the first time, the Egg Plant has been grown in his section

VEGETABLES—EGG PLANT. 177

this season, and that it has been a wonder to the good
people of that place, and they wish for more light on its
culture and uses. This gentleman says that the earliest
and best fruit is produced on the plants last set out (June
10th), and seems to wonder that such should be the case.
His experience here teaches a forcible lesson on the sub- —
ject that we so often dwell upon, cautioning against the
sowing or planting of tender kinds, such as Tomato, Egg
Plant, Cucumber, or Melon, too early. In the latitude of
New York, Egg Plants should never be sown in hot-beds
sooner than April 20th, the temperature of the hot-bed to
be not less than 70° at night. The plant at no season of
its growth should be kept for any length of time at a
lower average temperature than 70°, and for this reason:
The experiment of my correspondent demonstrated that his
plants, planted in open air on May 19th, were inferior to
those set out on June 10th. Egg Plants, when they first
germinate, are very sensitive to damp and to being chilled,
and the amateur often fails to raise them, even with his
hot-bed ; but as they are now grown in all large towns,
those wishing to try them, and not having the proper
means of raising the plants, can procure them at trifling
expense from the market gardeners or florists of their
nearest town. ‘The soil in which they fruit best is a light,
sandy loam, well enriched by decayed stable manure.

The Egg fruit is fit for use from the time it is the size
of a turkey’s egg until it is full grown, say five inches in
diameter; but it is not so good when the seeds become
hard and indicate an appearance of ripening.

The soil in which Egg Plants are to be grown can
hardly be too rich, for it is a plant that will generally re-

178 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

pay good treatment. They are planted from 2 to 3 feet
apart, according to the degree of richness of soil; in the
fertile market gardens never less than 3 feet. Although
their sale is comparatively limited, yet from the difficul-
ties often experienced in raising the plants, all that are
offered, are sold at good prices; the average is about $1
per dozen, each plant producing six to nine full-sized fruit.
It is more important with this vegetable to select the
proper variety for growing, than with any other that I
know; for that reason we are chary of touching any other
sort for market purposes than the

New York Improved.—This is our leading market

Fig. 46.—N. Y. IMPROVED ee
, EGG PLANT. Fig. 47.—BLACK PEKIN EGG PLANT.

variety and is readily distinguishable from either the
“Large Round” or “Long Purple” varieties, in the
plant being more robust in all its parts, the leaves and
stems also being thickly studded with spines, which are
not found to any extent on the other varieties. A pro-
ductive and excellent variety.

Long Purple.—Different in shape from the foregoing ;
sometimes deep purple, and again pale, with white or
yellowish stripes. Early, productive, and of easy culture.

LS
a3
:

VEGETABLES—ENDIVE. 179

Black Pekin.—A new variety of superior excellence ;
fruit, glossy, deep purple, almost black, of globular
form and very solid. It is earlier and more productive
than the New York Improved, and much superior in
flavor.

Scarlet-fruited Egg Plant.—This is more grown asa
eurious ornamental plant than for culinary use, the fruit is
about the size and shape of a duck egg, of beautiful scarlet.

White-fruited Egg Plant.— Similar in growth to the
scarlet, but the fruit is larger, and of an ivory whiteness.
It is good when cooked, but much less productive, and like
the Scarlet, is grown more for curiosity and ornament.

ENDIVE.—(Cichorium Endivia.)

The cultivation of this vegetable for market purposes is
not yet extensive, it being used by few except our Ger-
man and French population. It is, however, offered now
by the wagon load, where a few years ago a few basket-
fuls would have supplied all the demand. Like all other
vegetables that are grown in limited quantities, it com-
mands a high price, and the few who do raise it find it
very profitable.

Like Lettuce, it may be sown at any time from early
spring until August, and perfect its crop the season of
sowing. As it is used almost exclusively in the fall
months, the main sowings are made in June and July,
from which plantations are formed, at 1 foot apart each
way, in August and September. It requires no special

180 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

soul or manure, and after planting, it is kept clear of
weeds by hoeing and weeding, until the plant has attained
its full size, when the process of blanching begins; for it is
never used except when blanched, as it is harsh and bit-
ter in the green state. Blanching is effected by gath-
ering up the leaves, and tying them up by their tips ina
conical form, with bass matting. This excludes the light
and air from the inner leaves, which in the course of three
to six weeks, according to the temperature at the time,
become blanched.

Another method is much simpler and quicker, and is the
one mostly practised by those who grow Endive for mar-
ket; it consists simply in covering up the plants as they
grow, with slates or boards, which serves the same pur-
pose, by excluding the light, as the tying up. The aver-
age price during the months of October, November, and
December, is $1 per dozen.

The best sorts are the following:

Green Curled,—This is not only one of the most use-
ful as a salad, but is highly ornamental from its delicately
cut and curled leaves; it is much used for garnishing.

Moss Curled.—This variety is as yet scarce, but no doubt
it will soon be extensively cultivated. From the density
of the foliage, the plant is heavier than the Green Curled,
is equally agreeable as a salad, and its appearance, either
green or blanched, is particularly handsome.

Broad-leaved Batavian.— A loose growing variety
forming but little heart. As with this blanching can only
be accomplished by tying up, it is not so desirable as
either of the preceding.

VEGETABLES—GARLIC—HORSERADISH. 181

White Curled.—This, as the name indicates, has white
or light foliage; it is more tender than the Green; it can-
not be recommended except as an ornamental variety.

GARLIC,—(Allium sativum.)

Another vegetable used mostly by foreigners. It is of
the easiest culture, growing freely on any soil suitable for
Onions. It is propagated by divisions of the bulb, called
“cloves,” or “sets.” These are planted in early spring, in
rows, 1 foot apart, and from 4 to 6 inches between the
plants in the rows. The crop matures in August, when it
is harvested like the Onion. It is always sold in the dry
state.

HORSERADISH.—(Wasturtium Armoracia.)

This root is now one of the most important we raise in
our market gardens, upwards of two hundred acres of it
being grown in the vicinity of New York alone, and for
the last half dozen years there has been nothing grown
from which we have realized more profit as a second crop.
It is always grown as a second crop in the following,
manner :

In preparing the roots for market during winter, all the
small rootlets are broken off and reserved for planting,
leaving nothing but the main root, which is usually from

182 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

12 to 15 inches long, and weighing about three-quar-
ters of a pound. The rootlets, or sets, are cut into pieces
of from 4 to 6 inches in length, from one-quarter to
one-half in diameter; these are tied in bundles of 50 or 60,
the top end being cut square and the bottom end slant-
ing, (fig. 48), so that in planting there will be no danger
of setting the root
3 apes, Nias, => upside down; for al-

Fig. 48,—HORSERADISH SET. though it would grow,

if planted thus, it would not make a handsome root.

The sets, when prepared, are stowed away in boxes of
sand, care being taken that a sufficiency of sand is put be-
tween each layer of bundles to prevent their heating.
They may either be kept in the boxes in a cool cellar, or
pitted in the open ground, as may be most convenient.
We prefer the open ground, when the weather will per-
mit. I have said that Horseradish is always cultivated as
a second crop; with us, it usually succeeds our Early Cab-
bage, Cauliflower, or Beets. Thus, we plant Early Cab-
bage, lining out the ground with the one foot marker; on ev-
ery alternate line are first planted Cabbages, which stand,
when planted, at 2 feet between the rows, and 16 or 18
inches between the plants. We always finish our entire
planting before we put in the Horseradish, which delays it
generally to about Ist of May; it is then planted between
the rows of Cabbage, and at about the same distance as the
Cabbage is in the rows, giving about 12,000 or 13,000
plants per acre. The planting is performed by making a
hole, about 8 or 10 inches deep, with a long planting stick
or light crowbar, into which is dropped the Horseradish set,
so that its top will be 2 or 3 inches under the surface; if

foe

VEGETABLES—HORSERADISH. 183

the sets should be longer, the hole should be made pro-
portionally deep, so that the top of the set be not nearer the
surface than 2 or 3 inches; the earth is pressed in along-
side the set, so as to fill up the hole as in ordinary plant-
ing. The main reason for planting the set so far under
the surface, is, to delay its coming up until the crop of
Cabbage be cleared off; the Horseradish makes its main
growth in the fall, so that it is no injury to it to keep it
from growing until July; in fact it often happens that by
being planted too near the surface, or too early, it starts to
grow so as to interfere with the Cabbage crop; in such
cases we have often to cut the tops off twice by the hoe,
before the Cabbage is ready, but this does not injure it in
the least. It is a crop with which there is very little labor
during summer; after the Cabbage has been cut off, the
Horseradish is allowed to grow at will, and as it quickly
covers the ground, one good deep hoeing is all that is re-
quired after digging out the Cabbage stumps. When
grown between Early Beets, the culture is, in all respects,
the same, only it is more profitable to have the rows of
Beets only 18 inches apart; this of course throws the
Horseradish nearer, so that when planted between Beets,
it should be planted at the distance of 2 feet between the
plants in the rows.

As it isan entirely hardy plant, it is one of the last
roots we dig up in fall, it being usually delayed until De
cember. After digging, the small roots are usually broken
off in the field and stowed away in boxes, so that they
can be trimmed under cover at leisure. The main root is
then put away in the pits, as recommended in Winter
Preservation of Vegetables, so that it can be got at as re

184 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

quired during winter. The preparation for market is very
simple, being merely to cut off the green tops-and small
rootlets, leaving the main root only, as represented, in
reduced size, by fig. 49. It is sold by weight, and is

as way, Zenerally washed, which is done suffici-
SUN oN ently by rinsing a quantity of it together
| a in a large tub.
ios SS ial

Our manner of growing Horseradish
in this district, we claim to be a great
advance on the methods practised in

\

SANDING
s » RY
vil HUA OR ‘
Tey} eae
MUM Yee My sey, |
ZS Ss idk,

Dh ))
Dye

wh
| ) ty

general. All American writers on the

= subject, that I have seen, follow in the
c= “> same track and recommend planting the
= crowns. This would not only destroy
=A, the most salable part of the root, but

ce
aa
aS

f r TT
ND
‘ Zee

when planted thus, the crowns will pro-

sg 7 duce only a sprawling lot of rootlets, that
| Fig. 49.—norse. re utterly unsalable in the market.
RADISH. ~ They also tell us, that “after two

seasons growth the roots will be fit for use.” Now,
my experience in growing this root, has most emphati-
cally told me that after two seasons growth it is entirely
unfit for use, or at least unfit for sale, which I suppose is
about the same thing. A few years ago, one of my neigh-
bors had a patch of about two acres, which from some
cause or other he had neglected to have dug until late in
spring, and concluded, as it was then rather late to sell
it, he would leave it to grow over until next season, On
commencing to dig it the next fall, he found that the main
root, instead of being solid, as it is at one year old, had be-
come partially hollow, and of a woody, stringy nature,

VEGETABLES—HORSERADISH, 185

and when offered to manufacturers, it was refused at
any price. So there was no help for it, but dig up and
throw away his entirely worthless crop at a most unu-
sual expense, as its two year’s growth had massed the
whole soil with roots. This experiment of my neighbor
yas a loss to him of certainly not less than $1500.

Grown in the deep rich soil of our market gardens, Horse-
radish has been for the past twenty years one of our most
profitable second crops, and as an encouragement to begin-
ners, I will state that the price has, in this, as with most other
vegetables, steadily advanced, showing that, even with in-
creased competition, there has been more than correspond-
ingly increased consumption. The price for five years,
ending 1854, did not average more than $70 per ton; from
that time to 1860 about $120 per ton; and from 1860 to
1866 fully $200 per ton.* Of course the prices these later
years were inflated, yet still the proportion is higher for
this than for any other vegetable. Our average weight
per acre is five tons, or a little over three-quarters of a
pound per root for 12,000 planted. It has always been a
surprise to me how the price has kept up, in view of its
easy and safe culture. But there is one thing to be re-
membered; these heavy crops are only obtained in our
gardens that are in the highest state of culture, no ordi
nary farm land, the first season, manure it as you might,
will produce such results.

* Since then it has sold lower; in the year 1873 it probably averaged $150
per ton.

186 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

KOHLRABI, OR TURNIP-ROOTED CABBAGE.

(Brassica oleracea. Var.)

In general appearance, this vegetable more resembles a
Ruta Baga Turnip than a Cabbage, though it is more gen-
erally classed with the latter. It is best cultivated by
sowing the seeds in rows in May, June, or July, accord-
ing to latitude. In this district we sow throughout June,
for succession, in rows 18 inches apart, thinning out to
about 8 or 10 inches between the plants. It is rather dif-

i ficult to transplant, and we gen-
erally prefer to sow the whole
crop from seed, and thin it out
where it stands; although when
the weather is suitable, the thin-
nings may be planted at the dis-
tances above named. It is sold
in our markets in fall in the
green state, in bunches contain-
ing three roots, at an average

Fig. eC ee price of $1 per dozen bunches.
As it is not in general use, its sale is limited. The vari-

eties mostly cultivated are eet oy

Early White Vienna, is greenish- white outside;
flesh white and tender, while young. The best condition
for use is when the root is from 3 to 4 inches in diameter;
if younger, it partakes too much of the taste of the Cab-
bage, and when older it is dry and stringy. The best
market sort.

Early Purple Vienna.—Almost identical with the
preceding, except in color, which is a blueish-purple.

VEGETABLES—LEEK. 187

LEEK,.—(Allium Porrum.)

The Leek is another vegetable that is exclusively grown
as asecond crop. The seed is sown in April in rows 1
foot apart, in ground well prepared as recommended for
the Celery seed bed; and like all seed beds, it is kept
scrupulously clear of weeds. The best time of planting
is the same as that for all our second crops; during July,
or as soon as the first or spring crop can be cleared off
The ground can hardly be too rich for Leeks, and when
time will allow, we always contrive to get in a slight ad-
ditional coat of manure for this crop; the spring dressing,
large as it always is, hardly being sufficient. The ground
being well prepared by plowing and harrowing, lines are
marked out by the marker at 1 foot apart, and the Leeks
planted on each line at 5 or 6 inches apart; we do not
earth up, but instead plant rather deeply. As it is a plant
the foliage of which is but little spreading, great care
must be taken that weeds are never allowed to get ahead,
for if they do, they may soon entirely envelope the crop
to its total destruction.

It is a vegetable used mostly in winter and spring, and
requires to be dug up, in this vicinity, in November, as
otherwise it would be injured by our severe winters, but |
in milder sections it is better left standing where it grew;
it is quite a hardy vegetable, so that 20 or 25 degrees be
low freezing will not injure it. It is preserved, by the
market gardeners here, in trenches, exactly as Celery it
preserved; see chapter on Celery. Large quantities are -
sold in our northern markets, at fairly remunerative rates,
although from the nature of the plant, it requires perhaps

188 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

more labor than any other vegetable to prepare it
for market. Figure 51 represents the Musselburgh
Leek, trimmed previous to being
bunched up for market. From
six to eight roots are tied in
each bunch, which bring in the
market, upon an average, through-
out the season, about 75 cents
per dozen bunches. We plant
about 85,000 plants on an acre.

The two varieties used, are
known as Musselburgh and Lon-
don Flag. The former is rath-

er preferred in market, being

LOK

Fig. NL eats Sock usually larger, but there is but
LEEK. little choice between them.

LETTUCE,—(Lactuca sativa.)

Perhaps there is no plant of the garden that we could so
ill afford to dispense with as Lettuce. Its cultivation is uni-
versal, by all classes, and from its tractable nature and
freedom from nearly all insects and diseases, it is manage-
able in the hands of every one. In a well appointed mar
ket garden, it is the most important vegetable cultivated,
engaging our attention throughout the entire year, either
in the open ground in summer, in forcing houses or hot-
beds in winter, or in cold frames in spring. As our mode
of growing it under glass is sufficiently described in treat-

SS Pre. ~_— =

aus

eS ee oe

VEGETABLES—LETTUCE. 189

ing of pits, frames, etc., I will in this place confine myself
to our system of cultivating it out of doors. |

For our main early crop, that is sold from the open
ground in the latter part of May or first of June, the seed
is sown the previous season in the open ground, from the
15th to 25th of September. These plants are usually
large enough to be planted in frames in four or five weeks
later, as recommended for Cabbage plants, about 600 or
700 being planted in a 3x6 sash. Occasionally we sow
them in the frame in fall, and do not transplant them, as it
saves a great amount of labor, but they are not quite so
good plants unless transplanted, as it is difficult to sow
them so that they come up at the regular degree of thick-
ness. The winter treatment of Lettuce plants is similar
in all respects as described for Cabbage plants. In dry,
well sheltered spots, by covering up with leaves or litter,
late.in the season, say middle of December, Lettuce plants
may be saved over winter without glass covering, and in
southern parts of the country, without difficulty. Like most
plants that we term hardy, 20 degrees of frost will not in-
jure them. The plants for setting out in spring, are also
sown in cold frames in February, and in hot-beds in March,
and by careful covering up at night, make plants to set
out’in April; but these are never so good as those win-
tered over, and it can only be recommended where cir
cumstances do not permit the other method. To econo:
mize, not only in space, but in manure, we make every foot
of our gardens available, so that when we come to plant
out our Lettuce in March or April, instead of planting it
m a bed exclusively for itself, it is planted at the same
time and between the rows of Early Cabbage or Cauli-

190 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

flower, which are set at 2 feet apart. The Lettuce matures
‘its crop in half the time that it takes for the Cabbage, and
is consequently all cut off and marketed before the Cabbage
is half grown. If it were not so, they could not be both
grown at once on the same ground, for, when the Cabbage
srop attains its growth, it requires the full space allowed
—2 feet—for its development.

This early crop of Lettuce from the open ground is con-
sidered rather an auxiliary than a main one, it meets with
a rapid sale at an average of $1.50 per 100 heads. Rath-
er a low price it may be thought; but growers, having
only ten acres of ground, not unfrequently plant over
100,000 heads. It is planted somewhat closer than Cab-
bage, usually about 15,000 peracre. For succession crops
of Lettuce, sowings may be made in the open ground as
early as spring opens, until July. When not planted be-
tween Cabbage, they are set at 1 foot apart each way.
They are sold to some extent throughout the whole sum-
mer, but the great weight of the crop is sold about the
first week of June, in New York markets. The summer
price of Lettuce is very variable, as the supply is often
irregular—it may average $2 per 100.

The passenger in the horse cars going from Sixtieth
street to Harlem, on New York Island, any day from
June to October, may see little patches of vegetation of
different shades of green, ranged in uniform and regular
lines. These are the “salad patches” cultivated mainly
by German market gardeners; they range from two
acres down to a quarter of an acre in area. It seems a
wonder that the cultivation of such a small plot of earth
should give an able-bodied man a living; but a living it

VEGETABLES—LETTUCE. 191

does give, in nearly all cases, and some have quite a respec-
table surplus for a “rainy day.” The manner of growing
the Lettuce for the first or early crop, is the same as that
practised by the market gardeners of New Jersey or
Long Island, namely, using plants from seed sown in fall,
that have’ been wintered over under sashes, and planted
out as early as the ground is fit to work, which in these
warm nooks (in most cases at the base of rocky eleva-
tions), is often as early as the first week in March. In
some particularly favored spots the Lettuce is planted out
in the first week of October, and if it remains unscathed
during winter, comes in in such fine condition for market
in May as to well repay the risk. The variety used for this
purpose is the “ Brown Dutch.” In any section of the coun-
try where the thermometer never falls lower than 10° above
zero, Lettuce sown the first week in September and planted
out the first week of October in sheltered spots in dry
soils, will be almost certain to “‘ winter over,” and give
a crop in spring earlier than if treated by any other
method. The wonder is that it is not more extensively
done at such points as Charleston and Savannah, where,
so far as I can judge, there is nothing to hinder it from
being had in a marketable condition at any time, by
ranging the sowings and plantings from the middle of
February to the middle of April. To return to the New
York City growers; the varieties grown under glass and
first planted out in spring, are usually the “ Butter” and
“ Curled Silesia.” As soon as the crop is planted out,
sowings are made for a succession; this time, of “ Curled
India” and “ Butter,” the Silesia being unfitted for the
warm weather at which this sowing would mature. The

192 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

crop planted out in March matures by the end of May or
first of June, and as soon as it is cut off, the ground
is plowed or dug over, and the plants from the
March sowings are set. Another sowing is made for plants
to succeed these again, and so on during the entire season,
the rule being to sow seed at each time of planting. Four
crops of Lettuce are usually taken from June to October,
or nearly a crop each month. The plants are set about
a foot apart each way, and will average one cent per
head, so that the four crops give a return of nearly $2,000
per acre. This seems like an immense return for an acre,
but though the net profits are respectable, there are some
serious disadvantages attending the cultivation. Few or
none of these men are owners of the land, nor in hardly
any instance have they a lease. They are tenants at will,
and pay a yearly rental of, in some instances, $250 per
acre. Many of your country readers may think that an
extra cipher has been added to the amount, but they must
recollect that the value of some of these “ salad patches,”
as they are called, is $8,000 per city lot, or over $100,000
per acre, so that the paltry rental of $250 per acre hardly
pays the interest of the amount of taxes. The following
figures were given me by one of the best and largest
growers, whose patch was two acres:

SGN Ds58 oi, Con ee hee eee oats eae BR eT $400
Manure /.. 5.2. ¢ Se teecme sa aeeee ic Cone eae me 250
Labor'of 3men for 6 moenthsivcd.. ..s.2pas seeadeeewene 750
Horse keep and incidéntels.c 25.8 So. eee sen see see nee 450

$1,850
Four crops Lettuce, estimated at...........0.ceeeeee $4,000
PER CMUIOR iss voc wate Ce ewks tetas hoae Foe res naeien 1,850

Annual pronts' Lor 2 BCrOss ys.2 less ckcuvis ene vacavese $2,150

VEGETABLES—LETTUCE. 193

A pretty good profit, but deservedly earned, for to
attain this result, the grower works early and late. It
must not be supposed that five acres could be cultivated
by one man with the above profit. The loss from inade-
quate hired labor, and the difficulties of selling large
quantities of a quickly perishable crop, would be likely to
make the attempt to largely increase the area cultivated a
failure. Besides, Lettuce is only used to a limited extent
jn the summer and fall months, and if grown in the quan-
tities that it is in spring, could not be sold, yet in all
large cities it is used more or less at all seasons, and
commands for limited quantities usually a higher price
than in spring, the season of its greatest consumption.
No doubt the system of our New York City Lettuce
growers might be successfully and profitably followed in
the neighborhood of many other cities and large towns.

The varieties of Lettuce used for the different purposes
of forwarding and forcing, and for out-door culture in
spring and summer, are of more importance than with most
vegetables. I once lost almost my entire crop of Frame
Lettuce, from planting the Curled India, a summer vari
ety, instead of the Curled Silesia, which I had got from a
well meaning but not very learned friend, whose hiero-
glyphics had got transposed.

Early Curled Simpson.—This variety we place at the
head of the list, believing it to be most generally useful
for all purposes. It is a sub-variety of the Curled Silesia,
rather more curled, and having more of a yellow shade of
green; it is the kind which is planted in cold frames al-
- most exclusively, and is also largely grown as an early
open air variety between the Cabbage crop. This vari

4

194 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

ety, properly speaking, does not head, but forms a compact
close mass of leaves. This condition of maturity is at-
tained quicker than in varieties that form firm heads,
which gives it the great desideratum—earliness.

Curled Silesia.—A variety extensively sold in all seed-
stores, but we believe the preceding to be an improvement
upon it. The Curled Silesia is darker green, rather less
curled, and does not mature quite so early as the Simpson.

Tennis Ball.—A favorite forcing variety, and, as the
name indicates, forming a hard head; it makes few outer
leaves, and for this reason can be planted quite closely
under glass, from 6 to 7 inches apart. It is the variety
mainly used in our hot-beds and forcing pits.

Boston Market.—This is an improved variety of the
Tennis Ball, and attains a larger size. It grows very com-
pact, is beautifully white and crisp, and is one of the best
varieties for forcing.

Drumhead or Maita.—This is one of the best summer
varieties; heads remarkably large, crisp, tender, and of
good flavor.

Black-seeded Butter.—A variety similar to the Tennis
Ball, but larger in all its parts, forming heads in the open
ground often 14 inches in diameter, and averaging fully
a pound in weight. We use it extensively as an early out-
door variety, and also to some extent in our cold frames.

Curled India.—This we consider to be by far the best
of the curled sorts for hot weather; it forms an immense
head, often 16 inches in diameter, and is solid as a Cab-
bage.

Hardy Green Winter.—This, next to the Brown
Dutch, is the hardiest of all varieties, and for that reason

VEGETABLES—MARJORAM. ; 195

it is largely grown; many of the other varieties failing in
our frames in winter, while this comes through unscathed.
It is not much used for forcing, unless when we are
obliged to resort to it by having lost the others. When
fully matured, it forms a solid head.

Paris Green Cos.— Although the Cos varieties of Let
tuce are not so suitable for our climate, yet they are so
much superior in flavor, that they are occasionally grown
in early spring and fall for private use, though I have
never seen them in our markets. In shape, they differ en-
tirely from the other varieties, the head being elongated
and of a conical form, 5 or 6 inches in diameter, and 8 or
9 inches in hight. The present variety is deep green. To
be had in perfection, it requires to be tied up to ensure
blanching.

Paris White Cos.—Similar to the above, except in its
outer coloring, which is yellowish-green. This variety is
said to have been cultivated in England for half a century,
and is still the leading market sort, millions of it being
grown annually in the market gardens of London alone.

Oe

MARJORAM.—Sweer.—(Origanum Marjoram.)

A well-known aromatic herb, grown to a considerabl
extent for market purposes; but as it is of less impor-
tance than Thyme, which is grown very largely for sale,
the reader is referred to that head for all information re-
garding its culture, price, etc., as in these particulars they
are entirely identical.

196 GARDENING FOR PROFIT
MELON.—Mosx.—(Cucumis Melo.)

The Melon is not cultivated in the vicinity of New
York, in the market gardens proper, but to a large extent
in what may be called the farm-gardens of Long Island
and New Jersey. There it is grown almost in the same
manner as they grow Corn, planting about the same time,
and cultivating in the same manner, and often with but
very little more profit per acre than a crop of Corn, But
the Melon is a fruit easily shipped, and when grown by
the forwarding process we detail for Cucumbers— by
planting the seeds on sods under glass — there is no ques
tion but that it can be made equally profitable in all re-
spects with the Cucumber, when grown in southern lati-
tudes for our northern markets; although like many other
fruits and vegetables so easily raised, it/can never be ex:
pected to be profitable if used in the district in which it
is grown. It isa plant not at all particular as to soil, pro-
vided it be not wet or heavy; moderately enriched light
soils are those most congenial to it.

For open field culture, they should be planted in hills 6
feet each way, incorporating well with the soil, in each
hill, a couple of shovelfuls of thoroughly rotted manure.
Sow four or five seeds in each hill,* and cultivate afterwards
as for Corn. Too much care cannot be used in saving the

* The term, ‘‘hill,*) when used here and elsewhere, means but a slight
elevation of the surface, and is used only as @ convenient term to denote
where the seed or plant is to be planted. But from the signification of the
word, it naturally leads the novice in gardening into very serious error, by caus-
ing him to think he must literally raise a hill on which to sow or plant, and in
consequence we too frequently see plants elevated on little knolls a foot or more
above the general surface, from which the rain slides, and on which the sun beats
to their utter destruction.

VEGETABLES—MELON, 197

geeds of all plants of this class, as they cross very readily ;
for this reason, when seeds are to be saved from any par-
ticular variety, care must be taken that it is widely re-
moved from any other—not less than 100 yards. If seed
is not wanted, improper crossing will make no difference
to the fruit that season, but the seed—the product of
that crop — will be affected thereby, and its impurity de-
veloped when fruit is raised from it.

From the facility with which the Melon intermixes, it
follows that the varieties are very numerous, and for the
same reason it is difficult to retain varieties pure. The fol-
lowing seem to be the most fixed in character, and are
the sorts in general use.

Green Citron.—Fruit medium size, deeply netted; in
shape almost round, varying from 6 to 8 inches in diam-
eter; flesh green, and of rich delicious flavor. It is the
leading market variety at the North. In selecting for
seed or for use, the most netted specimens should always
be chosen, as they are always vastly superior in flavor to
those with smooth skin. The growers who bring their
melons to the New York market are very careful in saving
their seed, and some of them have succeeded in producing
very large and fine fruit by a continuous selection of the
- largest and best for their stock of seed.

Nutmeg.— Fruit, nutmeg-shaped. Skin deep green,
finely and thickly netted; flesh greenish-yellow, rich and
sugary, in flavor second to none. It is extensively grown
in private gardens, but is thought not to be quite so pro-
ductive as the Citron for market.

White Japan.—A very distinct sort, deeply ribbed,
slightly netted with skin of a yellowish white; flesh yel-

198 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

low, melting, and richly flavored. A recently introduced
variety of great merit.

Skillman’s Netted.—Form roundish oval; flesh deep
green, sweet, and richly perfumed. A variety much
esteemed for forcing, as it is closer growing than most
other sorts, and also one of the earliest.

Persian Ispahan.—A most valuable variety for the
more Southern States, although entirely too late for this
vicinity, unless forwarded previously under glass before
planting out. It is oval, of the largest size, averaging a
foot in length, with a diameter in its greatest thickness
of 8 inches. Skin smooth, and when fully ripe, of a light
yellow; flesh yellowish white, having a rich perfume and
delicious flavor.

Ward’s Nectar.—Among the varieties for the amateur
or private garden, there can be nothing finer than this;
the vine is probably not productive enough to make it a
profitable market sort. It is a green fleshed Melon, ex-
ceedingly sweet, and of the most delicious flavor. The
Cassaba is another fine Melon for the family garden. It
is a Persian variety, often weighing ten or twelve pounds,
and of fine quality.

MELON.—Warsr.—{Citrullus vulgaris.)

Like the Musk Melon, when cultivated for sale, this is
essentially a plant more suited for the farm than the gar
den, as it requires even more space in which to grow. The
soil best suited to it is a rather sandy loam; heavier soils
being apt to induce a too strong growth of leaves. It

VEGETABLES—MELON. 199

should be planted about the same time, and cultivated
in all respects the same as the Musk Melon, only that the ~
hills should not be less than 8 feet apart. It is grown in
immense quantities on the light sandy soils of New Jer-
sey, for the New York and Philadelphia markets, in which
it is said to give a profit of from $100 to $200 per acre.
But it is in the vicinity of our southern cities, Charleston,
Savannah, etc., where we have regular steamboat commu-
nication, that these tropical fruits can be grown at a high
rate of profit to the cultivator.

Water Melons, grown in the vicinity of Charleston, in
July of this year, were sold by the thousand in New
York, to the consumer, at $1 each; while those grown in
southern Jersey, in August or September, were a drug at
15 cents and 25 cents. The leading varieties are:

Mountain Sprout,—An old and well-known variety,
and still the leading market sort. It is of the largest size,
longish oval; skin dark green, marbled with lighter
shades; red fleshed; of excellent quality. A greater
weight can be raised per acre of this than of any other.

Phinney’s Early.—A new variety of superior quality;
flesh deep red, sweet and well flavored. It is very early
and productive, and an excellent sort for market.

Black Spanish.—Fruit medium, almost round; skin
dark green; flesh red; sweet and delicious. It is a great
favorite in private gardens.

Ice Cream.—A round white-fleshed variety of good
flavor, but not equal to the red-fleshed. It matures 10
days earlier, however, and on that account is worth culti-
vating in the Northern or Eastern States, where the sea-
son for the finer sorts is too short.

200 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

Orange.—So called from its peculiarity of the flesh
separating from the rind when fully ripe; it is below me-
dium size; flesh red; sugary, but coarse grained; inferior
to many others.

Citron Water Melon.— Outwardly a very handsome
fruit of small size, but not worth growing as a ripened
fruit. It is used to some extent for making sweetmeats,
for which purpose it is alone cultivated.

MINT ,.—(Wentha viridis.)

A hardy perennial plant, found growing in abundance
along the roadsides in many places. It is often grown in gar-
dens, however, and is used in soups, sauces, salads, etc., very
generally. It is of the easiest culture. It is increased by
divisions of the root, and planted at distances of a foot
apart; it quickly forms a mass, which may be cut from
for many years without renewal. It is grown to acon
siderable extent in hot-beds and forcing pits, in the same
way as Lettuce, and sold in the markets in early spring.
Its treatment there is very simple, being merely to lift
up the roots in solid mass, placing them on the 3 or 4
inches of earth in the hot-bed or bench of the forcing
house, and water freely as soon as it begins to grow
The sale is not large, but growers realize about $15 pe
sash, (3x6), for what is thus grown throughout winter
and spring.

Te Seer er

VEGETABLES—MARTYNIA. 201

MARTYNIA.—(Vartynia proboscidea.)

A vegetable used to a considerable extent for pickling,
the pods or fruit of which are produced in the greatest

We
BS

Fig. 52—MARTYNIA.

abundance. It is cultivated by sowing in open ground,
in April or May, and transplanting to 2 feet each way, in
June; it is fit for use in July and August.

202 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

MUSTARD.—(Sinapis alba, and 8. nigra.)

Is used for culinary purposes as a salad, usually in con-
junction with Cress. For this purpose it may be had
throughout the entire season, by sowing during winter in
hot-beds or forcing pits, and, on the opening of spring, in
the open ground, where, by sowing at intervals of two or
three weeks, it may be had in proper condition for use
throughout the year. Sow thickly in rows, 1 foot apart,
on any soil. :

White Mustard.—This is the variety mostly used as a
salad; the seeds are bright yellow, and are used in the
manufacture of the mustard of commerce.

Black Mustard.—This variety is hardly distinguishable
from the preceding, except in the color of its seeds, which
are dark-brown; they are used for medicinal purposes, and
also in manufacture of Mustard.

MUSHROOM.—(Agaricus campestris.)

I know of no vegetable which has such a novelty and
interest to the beginner, as the cultivation of the Mush-
room. In all other vegetables he sees something tangible
to start with—seeds, plants, or roots; but here, we may al-
most say he sees neither, for the seeds cannot be seen with
the naked eye, and it requires an unusual effort of the im.
agination, to believe the white moldy subtance we call
spawn, to be either plants or roots. There are so many
different systems of growing the Mushroom, detailed in
most of the works on gardening, that the reader is too

VEGETABLES—MUSHROOM. 208

often bewildered in choosing a guide. In this, I will only
detail one method, which I have practised for many years
with unéailing success. To make the cultivation of the
Mushroom profitable, it must be done in a building, either
specially erected for the purpose, or in some shed, stable,
or cellar, already on the premises, and which can be con-
verted to that use. The most suitable place, in establish-
ments having green-houses, vineries, or forcing pits, are
the back sheds, usually erected over the boiler pits, such
as are shown in the plans of
forcing pits in this work.
But such an erection is not
indispensable; any place,
where a temperature from
40° to 60° can be sustained
during winter, will suit.
We have also grown them
under the stages of our
green-houses, but our “‘ mod-

. ern improvements” of late

Fig. 53,—MUSHROOM. years, allow us no longer
room for the operation there. The time of beginning
may be any time during winter; we have usually begun
our preparations about December 1st, which brought our
beds into bearing about February Ist, at the season that
Mushrooms begin to be most wanted.

Our method of growing Mushrooms is very simple, and
can be accomplished to a certainty by any one conforming
to the following directions. Let fresh horse droppings be
procured from the stables each day, in quantity not less,
perhaps, than a good barrow load; to every barrow load

904 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

of droppings add about the same weight of fresh loam,
from a pasture or sod land, or soil of any kind, in fact, that
has not been manured; (the danger of old manwred soil
being, that it may contain spurious fungi). Let the
droppings and soil be mixed together, day by day, as the
droppings can be procured; if they can be, had all at
once, in quantity enough, so much the better. Let the
heap be turned every day, so that it is not allowed to heat
violently, until you have got quantity enough to form the
bed of the dimensions required. Be careful that your
heap is under cover, so that it cannot possibly get wet.

The most convenient size for a bed is from 4 to 5 feet in
width, and if the Mushrooms are wanted in quantity, it
is the plan most economical of space to start on the floor
of the house with the first bed, the additional ones-to be
formed of shelving, 4 feet wide by 10 inches deep, raised
one above another, something like the berths in a steam-
boat. Now, from the prepared heap of droppings and
soil, spread over the bed a thin layer; pound this firmly
down with a brick; then another layer, pounded down as
before, and so on until it reaches a depth of 8 inches. Be
careful that it be no more nor less than 8 inches; more
would cause the mass to heat too violently, while less,
is hardly enough. Into this bed plunge a thermometer ;
in a day or two the bed will heat so that it will run up to
100 or over, and as soon as it declines to 95 or 90, take a
dibber or sharp stick and make holes all over the bed, at
the distance of about 12 inches each way, to about half
the depth of the bed; into each hole put a piece of spawn
of the size of a hen’s egg or so, covering up the hole again
with the compost, so that it will present the same level firm

VEGETABLES—MUSHROOM, 205

surface as before the spawn was putin. Let it remain in this
condition for about 10 or 12 days, by which time the spawn
will have “run” through the whole bed. Now spread
evenly over the surface of the bed nearly 2 inches of fresh
loam, firm it down moderately with the back of a spade,
and cover up the bed with 3 or 4 inches of hay or straw;
this completes the whole operation of “ planting the crop.”
Nothing now remains to be done, but attention to the
proper degrees of heat and moisture.

If you can control the means of heating, so that the
place can be kept uniformly at a temperature of 60°, all
the better, but if not, it may range from 40° to 60°; it
should never get much below 40°, else the bed will be-
come cold too quickly, and delay the crop until too late in
the season to be profitable. Unless the air of the house
has been unusually dry, the Mushrooms will appear before
any water is required; but examination should be made,
and if the surface of the bed appears dry, a gentle sprink-
ling of water, heated to about 100°, must be given.

With this treatment, beginning in December, our first
crop is ready for use in February, and as the Mushrooms
do not come up all at once, it takes about three weeks to
gather the crop. After this, a slight dressing of fresh
soil, of about half an inch in depth, is spread over the bed,
again beat down with the spade; this, gently watered with
tepid water when dry, and a second crop of Mushrooms,
(often better than the first), is gathered in March.

To show how a simple oversight in our operations may
defeat the whole work, I will state, that in my first attempt
at Mushroom growing, I labored for two years without be-
ing able to produce a single Mushroom. In my apprentice

206 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

days, we had known no such word as fail, in so simple a
matter; but here, on my first attempt, on my own re-
sponsibility, I was met by total failure. Every authority
was consulted, all the various methods tried—but with no
better success. In all such cases something must be
blamed, and I pronounced the spawn as worthless; but
my good natured employer quietly suggested that this
could not well be, as a friend of his had abundant crops
growing from spawn received from the same source.
Driven into a corner by this information, I made another
exploration of my “authorities,” and was fortunate to
find in one of them a single sentence that at once showed
where my error had been, it was to “be careful to delay
the covering with mould, until ten or twelve days after the
bed had been spawned.” Now, in all the different meth-
ods I had tried, I had in each invariably put in the spawn,
and at once put on the 2-inch covering of soil, which had
the effect to shut down the steam, thereby raising the tem-
perature in the bed to a degree to destroy the spawn, and
consequently to defeat my whole operations. My excuse
for this digression is to show the importance of what
might otherwise be thought unnecessary details.

Although spawn is procurable at cheap rates in all hor-
ticultural stores, yet to such as desire to make it them-
selves, I give the following brief directions. Take equal
portions of horse droppings, cow dung and fresh loam,
mix the whole thoroughly together, as you would make
mortar; then form it into cakes about the size of large
bricks, place these on edge, under cover, until they become
half dry; then insert into each a piece of spawn half an
inch or so square, let the bricks remain until they are quite

iat

VEGETABLES—MUSHROOM. 207

dry; then spread about 8 inches of horse dung over the
floor of the shed, on which build the bricks in a pile 3 feet
wide by 3 feet high, keeping the side in which the spawn
has been put uppermost; then cover them over with suflici-
ent stable manure, so as to give a gentle heat through
the whole. In two or three weeks the spawn will have
spread itself through the whole mass of each brick; they
are then removed to a dry place, and will retain their vital
properties for many years.

There is not the least question that the cultivation of
Mushrooms for market, forced in the manner detailed,
will give a larger profit for the labor and capital invested
than that from any other vegetable. The supply has never
yet been half enough, and sellers have had prices almost
pretty much as they pleased. I know of no house that
has been especially erected for the purpose, and the mar-
kets have been supplied from beds formed in out-of-the-
way corners, giving only an uncertain and irregular sup-
ply, very discouraging to buyers. I have no doubt what-
ever that Mushroom houses, roughly built, but exclusively
devoted for that purpose, would, in the vicinity of any of
our large cities, pay a profit of 50 per cent. per annum on
cost of construction.

208 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

NASTURTIUM.—Invusn Cress.—(Tropeolum majus.)

A plant at once highly ornamental and useful. The
shoots and flower-buds are sometimes used as a salad, but
it is mainly grown for its seeds, which are pickled in vin-
egar, and used as a substitute for capers. It can be grown
in almost any soil or situation, entwining itself around
strings, brush, or trellis work, that may be given for its sup
port. “It may be sown thinly in drills, an inch or so deep,
in April or May. There are many beautiful varieties, but
the following are only those in use in our vegetable gar-
dens.

Tall Nasturtium.—Attains a hight of 8 or 9 feet, the
flowers are yellow, blotched with crimson. This variety
makes an excellent screen or covering for unsightly places
in the garden.

Dwarf Nasturtium.—This, in growth, is quite distinct
from the preceding, never attaining more than 3 feet; it
should be sown thinly in drills, 3 feet wide, and staked up
with brush like Peas. Its flowers are very handsome,
bright yellow, blotched with scarlet.

OKRA OR GUMBO,—(Abelmoschus esculentus.)

This vegetable is extensively grown in the Southern
States; its long pods, when young, are used in soups,
stews, etc., and are believed to be very nutritious. It is
of the easiest culture, and grows freely, bearing abun-
dantly on any ordinary garden soil. It is sown at the
usual time of all tender vegetables—zin this district in

4
:

“A
..
e
Fy
wa
ro

ue

VEGETABLES— OKRA. 209

May — in drills 2 inches deep, and from 18 to 24 inches
apart in the rows, for the dwarf sorts, for the tall nearly
double that width. There are only two sorts commonly

Fig. 54—oKRA, OR GUMBO.

grown, “dwarf” and “tall;” the former being the most
productive.

210 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

ONION.—(Allium Cepa.)

Next to Cabbages, perhaps, Onions are the most prof
itable crop of our market gardens, in which they are
grown from sets, and nearly all sold in bunches in the green
or unripened state. Grown from seed, they are cultivat-
ed almost exclusively by farmers or men who devote farm
land to this purpose alone; thus grown, they are all sold
in the dry state, and form an important article of com-
merce.

I will first describe the manner of cultivating in our
market gardens. To produce the “sets,” or small bulbs,
that are planted to give early Onions to be sold green, a
poor piece of ground is chosen as early as it is fit to work
in spring. It is brought into a thorough state of pulver-
ization by plowing, harrowing, and raking, so that the
surface is level and free from stones; a line is then
stretched, and lines are marked out by the 9-inch side of
the marker, in these the seed is sown in beds of 6 rows
wide, rubbing out every 7th row marked, so that it forms
an alley 18 inches wide. For this purpose the seed is
sown quite thickly, and on poor soil, so as to produce the
“sets” as small as possible, for we find that whenever
they much exceed half an inch in diameter, they will run
toseed. It matters not how small the bulb is; ever when
of the size of the smallest Peas, they make an equally good
if not a better crop, than if of a larger size. The sets are
taken up in August, well dried, placed with the chaff
among them in a loft of stable or barn, about 4 inches
deep, covered up by six inches of hay on the approach of
hard frost, and left thus until wanted for setting out in
spring. This is the usual method of raising Onion sets.

VEGETABLES—ONION. 211

Mr. Wm. C. Pelham, of Maysville, Ky., wrote me in
1871, requesting me to try his method of raising Onion
sets and make public the result of the trial if satisfactory.

Mr. Pelham’s method is to select a level and dry piece
of ground. Beds are formed two feet wide, with a path
of one foot between. The beds are excavated to the
depth of two inches—or, in other words, the path or alley
‘between is two inches higher than the beds; the bottom
of the beds is nicely smoothed with the back of a spade,
so as to present a level surface whereon to sow the seed.
The seed is sown so that there will be fifteen or twenty
seeds to the square inch. If the surface of the beds was
sprinkled with plaster or white sand, the seeds, which
are black, could be sown more evenly. After sowing, the
seeds are covered with two inches of pure clean sand,
which brings the beds and paths to the same level. The
whole is then rolled with a light roller or patted down
with a spade. The advantages of this plan are, that there
being no seeds of weeds in the sand, the labor of weeding
is entirely saved, and the sets when matured are far more
easily harvested from the clean, soft sand than from the
hard-baked surface which most soils present after a sea-
son’s rains and sun, on a surface that can not be stirred.

I consider this plan of raising Onion sets most valuable
to the market gardener, as a very little space devoted to
this purpose will save him a heavy expense in the pur-
chasing of Onion sets. Few market gardeners can grow
them in the ordinary manner, unless at a cost greater than
they can be purchased for frgm those who make a busi-
ness of growing them. But the price paid for sets the
past six or eight years has been so high that many market

919 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

gardeners have abandoned growing Onions from them.
For Onion sets the best soil of the garden is chosen, ma-
nured with short, well rotted manure, plowed in at the
rate of 75 tons to the acre; when only concentrated ma-
nures can be obtained, crushed bone is preferable to gu

ano. The ground is further deeply harrowed; the har

row turned on its back, and the soil still further broken up
with the short teeth, and if any inequalities are left, they
are leveled and smoothed with the rake. The line is now
stretched along the bed, and the 9-inch marker again
makes the drills, 6 in each bed, with one rubbed out for
an alley. The sets are now planted in the drills, at a dis-
tance of 8 inches apart, pressing each bulb down firm-
ly, so that it will keep right side up; the row is then
closed in by the feet or a rake, so that the set is entirely
covered up. The ground is then rolled over, so as to ren-
der it still more compact around the bulbs; as soon as the.
lines can be traced, by the Onions starting to grow, the
hoe is applied between the rows, and the soil broken be-
tween the plants by the fingers, where the hoe cannot reach,
so as to destroy the germ of the weeds. If attended to in
time, twice going over with hoeing and weeding is suf-
ficient until the crop is fit for market, which it begins to be
about the first week in June, and is usually all gathered
by the first week in July, so as to give us time for second
erops.

When we first begin to send them to market, they are
usually not more than half grown, and are washed and tied
in bunches containing from nine to twelve Onions; later,
when full grown, from six to seven. This crop is one re-
quiring considerable labor and expense, to get it in shape

in
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oe a 5 eee ts

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Pee en)

VEGETABLES—ONION. 213

to sell, taking cost of sets, labor, manure, etc., probably
not less than $400 per acre, for the past five years; but
the receipts have been correspondingly high, averaging in
that time quite $800 peracre. Onions, planted from sets,
rarely fail to give a crop on any kind of soil, provided it
has been well manured; and although they are sold by
the market gardeners in the green state, they are equally
good, ripened and dried, when raised from sets, as from
seed. The quantity of sets required per acre, is from six
to ten bushels according to size; at present prices, they
cost $10 per bushel. rt

The method of raising Onions from seed as a farm or
garden crop, differs but little from that we adopt for sets,
except that they are sown generally about 1 foot apart in
the rows, and manured at the rate of only 25 tons to.the
acre instead of 75. It is of the utmost importance that the
ground for Onions, grown from seed, be as nearly level as
possible, so that the seed is not washed away by rains.
It also saves considerable labor in hoeing, when it can be
got free from stones and seeds of weeds.

The seed of Onions, when sown as a field crop, is most-
ly sown by a machine used solely for that purpose; this
machine sows two rows at once, making the drill and sow-
ing as it goes along. The operation of sowing is begun
as soon as the ground is fit to work in spring, as we al-
ways find, other conditions being the same, that those ear-
liest sown produce the heaviest crop. The covering of
the seed is best done by rolling the ground with a light
roller, drawing it lengthwise of the lines. Rolling is also of
ereat advantage in smoothing the surface, so that hoeing,
particularly with the scufile hoe, is much more easily per-

214 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

formed. The quantity of seed per acre, is about 4 lbs.,
when sown by the machine, that is if the seed is new and
fresh; and none else should ever be used, as Onion seed,
of more than one year old, is not apt to produce a vigorous
crop. The seed is quickly tested by placing a little of it
in damp cotton or moss, in a moderately warm room; if
fresh, it will sprout in three or four days. The early at-
tention to weeding or hoeing is, if possible, of more import-
ance when the crop is raised from seed, than when from
sets; for the growth being slower and feebler from seeds,
if weeds once get ahead, the crop may be ruined. Here,
as well as in all other garden operations, one man will hoe
over more ground, before the weeds start to grow, than
ten men will, after the weeds get to be six inches high.
Here then, a “stitch in time,” literally, “‘ saves nine.”

The crop is always harvested in August, the bulbs be-
ing lifted by slightly digging under the row with a light
digging fork. The Onions are left on the ground, usually
from two to three weeks, according to the condition of
the weather, to get thoroughly dried, and are then placed
in barrels, or about 6 or 8 inches deep upon shelving made
for the purpose, in a barn or cellar; any place that is
dry, without being too warm, being most suitable.
Onions will only endure a certain amount of frost without
injury, so that it is always safer to cover them up from in-
tense freezing as cold weather approaches. The price of
Onions is variable in the extreme; those first sent to mar-
ket often selling for $5 and $6 per barrel, while in a week
later the same quality is hardly salable at $1.50 per bar-
rel. Again, in spring, when successfully wintered over,
some careful grower often realizes the first named price,

VEGETABLES—ONION. 215

It may be given, as a fair average, that $1.50 per barrel is
the price realized by the grower. The product is about
150 barrels per acre, and the cost of raising about $125;
leaving a profit of $100 per acre.

The varieties of Onion are quite numerous, but, as in
all other leading vegetables, cultivators confine them-
selves to only a few well established sorts. |

Yellow Dutch, or Strasburg.—This is the variety that
is grown almost exclusively when the crop is planted from
“sets,” and sold in the green state. Not that it is any
more productive, nor does it sell quite so well as the White
or Silver Skinned, but from the fact of the “sets” keep-
ing better in winter, it is the sort we find safest to use,

White Portugal, or Silver Skinned.—A very fine sort,
delicate flavor, much grown for private use; it requires
: more care in keeping in win-
ter than any other, however,
and is hardly ever used as
a market sort, unless for
pickling, for which it is sold
in large quantities. The
bulb is quite flat; the outer
skin, silvery white. It is

: entirely distinct from the
Fig. 55.—SILVER-SKINNED onron. “Silver Skin” of the East-
ern States, which is a brownish-yellow skinned variety, bet-
ter known as Old Yellow, or Common Yellow.

Yellow Danvers.—This variety has not been sufficiently
tested as a market sort, to be sold green, but from what I
have seen of it, I am inclined to think it may yet super-

216 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

sede the Strasburg for that purpose. It certainly is far
more productive, but the question, whether it will keep as
well in sets, during winter, has not been sufficiently test-

Fig. 56.—YELLOW DAN- Fig. 57.—wETHERSFIELD RED
VERS ONION. ONION.

ed. When sown from seed, as a field crop, it is said to
give one-third greater weight than any other variety, but
it does not keep so well as some others..

Wethersfield Large Red.—This is the staple variety
of the eastern Onion growers ;
enormous quantities of it are
grown for shipment, it be-
ing found, from its excel-
lent keeping qualities, to be
best fitted for that purpose,

It is never so salable as the

BE White or Yellow, however,
Fig. 58.—PoTaTO ONION. in our home markets.
Early Large Red.—About a fortnight earlier than the
Large Wethersfield, rather smaller in size, close grained
and heavy; mild in flavor, a good keeper.

F
&
a
a
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4
&
z
rs

oO? RS AS ee bees

———— 2 ee ee ae

On ee

VEGETABLES—PARSLEY. SE

Potato Onions, or “ Multipliers,’ are the best of all
for family use. They are grown by planting the small
bulbs, early in spring, in rows 1 foot apart, by 4 or 5 inches
in the row, and cultivated otherwise as described for those
grown from sets. The increase is formed by the bulb, as
it grows, splitting up and dividing into six or eight bulbs,
these forming the crop when at maturity in August.

Top, or Tree Onion.-—Has a bulb in size and general
appearance similar to the Po.

tato Onion, but is propagated
by the singular production of
a cluster of small bulbs in
place of flowers. These resem-
\ ble a cluster of hazel nuts,
"and by them it propagates
very rapidly. It is grown to
a considerable extent, in some
places, as an early market
sort, sold green; when ripe,

Fig. 59.—TOP ONION.

it must be used early in the
season, as it does not keep well in winter. The planting
and subsequent culture is the same as for other sorts.

PARSLEY,.—(Petroselinum sativum.)

A vegetable in more general use for garnishing than any
other plant of our gardens; it is also extensively used in
soups, stews, etc. Its cultivation forms quite an import-
ant item in market gardens, particularly under glass,

218 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

The manner of cultivating it thus is by sowing it be-
tween the rows of a growing crop of Lettuce in our cold
frames, in April. As it is slow to germinate, it only ap-
pears at the time the Lettuce is cut off in May. It is then
cleared from weeds, hoed, and forms a growth fit to cut a
month before that sown in the open ground. After the
first cutting has been made, in June, it is generally so low
in price as not to be worth marketing, so it is allowed to
grow through the summer until the first week in Septem-
ber, when it is cut off close to the ground and thrown
away, as it is rarely wanted at this season. It is again
hoed, and as at this time it makes a short healthy growth,
suitable for keeping well in winter, it is stowed away in
narrow shallow trenches, exactly in the same manner in
which we preserve Celery.

This way of growing Parsley, I believe, is nearly con-
fined to New York; but as the consumption of such an
article is necessarily limited, this market has been over-
supplied of late years. Formerly it has frequently paid
twice the value of the sash that covered it, in one season—
$6 for a3x6 sash. No doubt, in many places this system
of growing would be as profitable as it used to be with
us. When not grown under glass, it should be sown
thickly in rows a foot apart, in early spring. The vari-
eties cultivated are the “ Dwarf Curled,” for framing and
general crop, and the Moss or Fimbriated, for garnighing.

VEGETABLES—PARSNIP. 219

PARSNIP.—(Pastinaca sativa.)

Of late years, our market garden grounds have become
too valuable to be used in growing this vegetable, the
competition from well cultivated farm lands having
brought it down below our paying level. Its cultivation
is, in all respects, similar to the Carrot. The soil most
suitable is a deep sandy loam, moderately enriched. It
is sown rather thickly in our gardens in early spring, at
a distance of 12 or 14 inches apart in the rows; on farm
lands, at 18 or 20 inches, or wide enough for rows to be
_ worked between by the cultivator. Like all vegetables
of this nature, it must be thinned out to a distance of 3
or 4 inches apart between the plants; and our oft repeat-
ed caution about weeds must be here again enjoined. It
is used almost exclusively in winter, but in our Northern
States, what is wanted for winter use, must be dug up in
fall, and packed away in the manner described under the
head of “ Preserving Vegetables in Winter.” What are
wanted for sale or use in spring, are best kept in the bed
where they grow; being entirely hardy in our coldest
districts. About one-half is usually dug up and pitted in
fall, for sale in winter, and the other half left over for
spring. But it sometimes happens that the winter sup-
ply is exhausted before the frost is out of the ground in
spring, sufficiently to permit of their being dug, and when
procurable at such times, they command almost fabulou
prices.

On one such occasion my salesman reported that there
was not a root of this vegetable to be found in market,
and suggested an attempt to dig them at any cost. On
an examination of a well sheltered plot, we found it prac-

2290 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

ticable, with crowbars, picks, and wedges, to extract them
slowly from the frozen soil, and with our ordinary force,
a few barrels were dug that day that were quickly sold at
$10 per barrel. I at once secured a supply of extra labor-
ers, and by our efforts the next day, we sent in 40 barrels
that sold for $6 per barrel; three or four days more ex-
hausted our supply, but the plot, of little more than half
an acre, brought nearly $800, which would not have sold
for more than $200, had not the unusual scarcity in mar-
ket been taken advantage of. The average market price
is about $1.50 per barrel, and at that rate, as a farm crop,
it is, in my opinion, by 50 per cent. a better paying crop
than Onions. It will average easily 200 barrels per acre,
and in our rich garden soil about 300. The expense of
‘raising I should judge to be not more than $100 per acre
on farm land; in gardens about $200. The increased cost
in the garden being mainly in the greater value of the
land, for it will be remembered that the annual rent of
leased gardens in the vicinity of New York, and other
large cities, is about $75 per acre.

A number of varieties of Parsnips are enumerated in
seed lists, but the distinctions, as far as I have seen. are
hardly worth a difference in name, and I am inclined to
think that the soil often determines peculiarities of variety.
Certain it is, that by sowing the “ Hollow Crowned” on
heavy soil, it will be in a great measure deprived of that
distinction, while the same seed sown on light sandy soil,
will have this peculiarity well marked.

VEGETABLES—PEA. 821

PEA.—(Pisum satioum.)

The Pea is grown largely for market purposes in nearly
every state in the Union, the time at which it is sewn and
matures being at widely different dates in northern and
southern sections. In any district, its highest degree of
perfection is attained under a comparatively low tempera-
ture, hence it is one of the many vegetables described as
best to be sown in “early spring.” True, it is sown fora
succession crop throughout the summer months, even as
late as August, but the first sowings, everywhere, always
produce the best results, and it is from the first sowings
only that it is ever offered in market. For market pur-
poses it is more a crop of the farm than of the garden,
and many hundred acres are cultivated in Southern Jersey
and Long Island for the New York market. Warm,
light soils, moderately enriched by stable manure or bone
dust, are best: adapted to its culture, but if the ground
has been manured the previous year, no manure is needed.
The whole crop is marketed by July, and is usually follow-
ed by a second crop of Late Cabbages or Turnips. The
two crops together, average a profit of from $150 to
$300 per acre, according to earliness, condition of soil, ete.
There is an important matter connected with growing
Peas, that confines their culture to the vicinity of a town
or village; it is the necessity of being able to get a large
number of hands to pick, at the time they are marketable,
The variation in one day, in the market, is not unusually
from $2 to 50 cents per bushel, which shows the vast im-
portance of an early crop. From the soft condition in
which it is required to be gathered, it is a vegetable not
very manageable to ship, and the packages, which should

222 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

be of latticed boxes or baskets, snould never exceed the
capacity of a bushel, when shipped from distances requir-
ing from two to three days in the transit. But even this
expense and care is well repaid by the high rates for
which the first lots are sold. When grown as a market
crop, Peas are never staked, and are sown in single rows
2 to 3 inches deep, and from 2 to 3 feet apart, according
to the variety, or the strength of the soil. When grown
in small quantities for private use, they are generally sown
in double rows, 6 or 8 inches apart, and staked up by brush,
for the taller growing kinds.

The varieties are very numerous, but are in a great state
of confusion, the same kind being often sent out under a
dozen names. The following varieties are well defined,
arranged as our experience gives the order of merit for this
locality.

EARLY VARIETIES.

Daniel O0’Rourke is still the leading market variety
in this district, and in fact, must be in all parts of the
country, judging from the immense quantities of it sold
by the seedsmen. It should be sown, for a field crop, in
rows from 2 to 21 feet apart, about 13 bushels of seed be-
ing required per acre.

Extra Early.—We find this to bea few days earlier
than the preceding, but not quite so large in the pod, and
hence not so profitable for market, but desirable as the
earliest sort for private use. A favorite market variety in
the Southern States, and shipped north in large quantities.

VEGETABLES—PEA. 8 ae

Little Gem.—A green, wrinkled marrow, similar in
habit to the Tom Thumb, but much superior in quality,
and coming into use a few days later than Daniel
O’Rourke. It is very prolific and of excellent flavor.
Grows about one foot high.

Blue Peter.—A new and remarkably dwarf variety,
growing only about six inches high. It is earlier than
Daniel O’Rourke, very prolific, of fine flavor, and is said
to be an improvement on Little Gem.

Tom Thumb.—An early and productive variety grow-
ing about one foot high. It is also a very hardy variety,
and is generally used for sowing in fall in the Southern
States, where it sometimes requires a little protection by
brush during winter, and it matures very early in spring.
As it matures its crop nearly all at once, it is not so well
suited to private as to market gardens,

McClean’s Advancer.—A comparatively new variety,
becoming fit for use in a week after the earliest sorts; pod
and pea large, and of excellent flavor.

LATE VARIETIES.

Champion of England, — This, so far, is, by general
consent, acknowledged as the best of the late varieties. It
is tall growing, four feet in hight, requiring to be stakes
up; pod and peas of the largest size.

British Queen.—Plant strong and vigorous, often at
taining a hight of six feet. Aside from its large size, it has
the merit of continuing long in bearing, and is less af:
fected by mildew in summer than most other varieties.

Blue Imperial.—One of the oldest varieties, but yet

224 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

standing with undiminished merit as one of the best late
summer varieties; it is one of the latest, very productive,
and of excellent quality.

Veitch’s Perfection.—One of the dwarfs of the late
varieties, abundantly productive; pods and peas of the
largest size; a favorite fall sort.

Black and White-eyed Marrowfat.— These are both
productive and hardy varieties, extensively grown as field
peas; used dry. They are also, from their great produc-
tiveness, grown largely in private gardens, but they are
not so fine flavored as most other varieties.

Tall and Dwarf Sugar.—These are the varieties known
as “edible podded,” and are excellent to use in the green
state, in the same way as String Beans, retaining almost
the identical flavor of the Pea. When not used with the
pods, they are equally excellent as shelled Peas, and as
the name implies, particularly sweet.

PEPPER.—(Capsicum annuum.)

A tropical plant, that requires to be started in hot-beds
or forcing pits, in the Northern States. The most com-
mon method is, to sow in hot-beds in March, and treat in
all respects as directed for the cultivation of the Egg
Plant. Light sandy soils are rather best suited for its
growth, but it will grow tolerably well on any soil.
When cultivated for market, they are planted in rows 2
feet apart, and 15 inches between the plants, The crop

VEGETABLES—POTATO. 225

is moderately profitable, but it isnot grown in large quan.
tities, the main consumption of it being by the pickle
factories.

The popular varieties are;

Bull-nose, or Bell.—An early variety of mild flavor,
rind thick and fleshy; it is a favorite
variety both for pickling and for use —
in the crude state.

Squash, or Tomato-shaped.—Gener-
f\ ally grown for pickling, hardly so early
7 as the preceding, but very productive ;
W it is the leading market variety.

Sweet Mountain, or
Mammoth.—Similar to the

Fig. 60.—BULL-NOSE,
OR BELL PEPPER. Bull-nose, but larger, and

milder in flavor; used to make stuffed pickles.

Cayenne.—The variety of commerce; pods
small, cone-shaped; coral-red when ripe; it
is quite a late variety, but the pods are as :
frequently used for pickling green as when yg, Pg anes
ripe. Extremely acrid. Bee See

POTATO.—(Solanum tuberosum.)

The soil acknowledged to be best suited for the Potato,
is sandy loam; in all heavy soils it is more subject to dis-
ease, and the flavor is also much inferior, This, however,
is true of nearly all vegetables, heavy soils inducing a wa-
tery insipidity of flavor. Like all robust growing vegeta-

226 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

bles, Potatoes can be grown with varying success on soils
of all kinds and in all conditions of fertility; but it is
every way most profitable to use an abundance of ma-
nure, when it is at all attainable. In breaking up good
pasture land, the decaying sod answers sufficiently well
for the first year in lieu of manure. Manure is applied
either in the rows or hills, or broadcast over the surface,
and plowed in; the latter plan in all cases being prefer-
able, when manure can be obtained in sufficient quantities.

Potatoes, when grown for market, are always a farm crop,
the receipts per acre being much too low for the regular
market garden; the large quantities that are planted usu-
ally prevent the use of manure in any other way except in
the rows. When thus applied, furrows are plowed out in
spring, after the ground nas become dry and warm, usu-
ally 3 feet apart, and from 3 to 4 inches deep. The ma-
nure is spread in the furrow, the “sets” or “seed”
planted thereon, from 8 <o 30 inches apart, and the furrow
again covered in by ihe plow. As soon as the shoots are
seen above ground, the ridge should be at once hoed, and
the cultivator run between the rows; as they advance in
growth, the soil should be laid up on each side against
the row, so as to form a slight ridge.

Considerable disvussion has at various times occurred
concerning the relative merits of planting cut or whole
tubers, but is yet undecided, each system having its advo-
cates; a fact which goes far to prove that it is of little
consequence which method is followed. The best rule, in
our experience is, to plant the whole small tubers :f fully
matured, and the larger ones cut, but in either case leay
ing enough bulk to give sufficient sustenance to the plant.

VEGETABLES—POTATO, 227

The Long Island farmers, in the neighborhood of New
York, have their crops of Early Potatoes sold off early
enough in July to get the ground leveled and Late Cab-
bages planted on the ridge on which the Potatoes have
been growing, sufficient manure being left in the ground
to carry through the crop of Cabbage. The two crops
together give an average profit of $150 per acre. Pota-
toes may be preserved during winter by the section pit
system recommended for the general preservation of
vegetables, or in a frost-proof cellar.

The varieties of the Potato are very numerous, many of
them having only local reputations, so that it is somewhat
difficult to name the best for such an extensive territory
as ours; those below named seem to have the most quai-
ifications to commend them for general culture.

Early Rose.—This excellent variety was introduced
about five years ago, and has become a universal favorite.
It is one of the very best yet introduced, unrivalled for
earliness, quality, and productiveness.

Early Goodrich.—This variety has become very popu-
lar in some sections of the country. It is an early and
productive variety, of good quality, yielding on rich soils
from 250 to 350 bushels per acre.

Early Vermont,—A seedling raised in 1867, from 2
seed ball of the well known Jackson White, fertilized with
the Garnet Chili. Its habit of growth and general ap-
pearance is much like the Early Rose, but it has proved
from seven to ten days earlier than that favorite sort. It
is also said to be more productive and fully equal in qual-
ity to that variety.

Jackson White.—A variety of great excellence; tubers

228 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

large; color yellowish-white; skin often rough. An ex-
cellent flavored variety, and though not early, is exten-
sively grown in this vicinity for general crop. Plant two
and a half to three feet in drills.

Peach Blow.—Extensively grown for market, and a
favorite shipping variety. Tubers rather large, round;
eyes rather sunk; skin pinkish-red. Very productive,
and in this section has for some years withstood disease
better than any other sort; should be planted 2’|, or 3
feet in drills.

White Peach Blow.—A sub-variety of the above,
claimed by some to be superior.

Late Rose.—A “sport” from the Early Rose, coming to
maturity from two to three weeks later than that variety,
and said to be more productive, hardier, and a better
keeper.

Compton’s Surprise.—A new late variety, claimed to
excel all others for productiveness, size, and fine quality
and appearance. Shape oval-oblong; eyes sunken; skin
smooth; color reddish purple, flesh white; grows to a
large size, and retains its quality perfectly throughout the
year.

Peerless.—This variety, like the Early Rose, is a seed-
ling from the Garnet Chili. It is a good variety for the
main crop; grows to a large size, and is very productive,
frequently producing from 100 to 150 barrels to the acre,

VEGETABLES—PUMPKIN—RADISH. 229

PUMPKIN.—(Cucurbita Pepo.)

The Pumpkin is yet offered in large quantities for sale
in our markets, but it ought to be banished from them
as it has for some time been from our gardens. But
the good lieges of our cities are suspicious of all innova-
tions in what is offered them to eat, and it will be many
years yet before the masses will understand that the mod-
est, and sometimes uncouth looking, Squash is immeasure-
ably superior, for all culinary purposes, to the mammoth,
rotund Pumpkin. The Pumpkin is an excellent agricul-
tural plant, of great value for cattle, but I have no reason
to allude to it here, except to denounce its cultivation or
use as a garden vegetable.

RADISH.—(Raphanus sativus.)

Radishes are consumed in immense quantities, and are
one of the vegetables which we deem of no little import-
ance as a market crop. To have them early, a light rich
soil is the best; heavy or clayey soils not only delay their
maturing, but produce crops much inferior, both in appear-
ance and flavor. They are grown by us in various meth-
ods; the most common is, after sowing a crop of Beets in
rows, to sow the Radish crop regularly over the bed
broadcast. The Radishes come up quickly, and are gath-
ered and sold, usually in six weeks from the time of sow-
ing. The Beets at this time have only become large
enough to be thinned, and will not be ready for at least a
month later, so that the Radish crop is taken off the same

230 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

ground with little or no injury to the Beet crop. Another
method is, to sow them between the rows of Early Cab-
bages or Cauliflowers, where they also are gathered off so
soon as not to interfere with these crops.

These are the methods practised in our gardens here,
where land is so valuable that we must make it always
car ry double, and often treble, cropsin a season. Radishes

are also grown in some places very extensively,
on land devoted exclusively to that purpose,
in spring. Their culture thus is exceedingly
simple. The ground being plowed and harrow-
ed well, the seed is sown, and the harrow again
run over, which places the seed at the proper
. depth. But though the field cultivation of this
vegetable is simple, the labor of gathering, tying
up, and washing, preparatory for market, is
great, which detracts largely from the profits.
Perhaps the average receipts are $300 per acre,
but the expense, before this is realized, is prob-
ably one-half that amount. It must be remem-
bered, that, in many cases, it is an auxiliary crop,
interfering but little with our main spring crops.
It is one of the vegetables convenient to ship,
and the early samples from Norfolk, Va., aver-
Fig. 62, 282 $10 per barrel, of 200 bunches ; or about $1000
LONG scaR- per acre, which should be a great inducement
eens to southern cultivators, as there is but little
danger of glutting the markets with fresh vegetables
shipped from a southern to a northernport. Only a few
varieties are cultivated, although the seed lists give dozens.

Long Scarlet Short Top.—This is the variety grown

A

Te al

oO

VEGETABLES—RADISH. 231

in rather the largest quantity, as from its shape, (when
tied up in flat bunches), it is best suited to ship. In rich
light soils, its average length is about 9 inches.

Scarlet Turnip.—Rather more delicate in flavor than
the above, and for this reason in more
demand for home consumption. By al-
lowing it sufficient time to grow, it at-
tains 3 inches in diameter, but it is al-
ways gathered at half
this size. This, and the
preceding, are the two

varieties that are grown

as early market sorts.

Fig. 63.—SCARLET
TURNIP RADISH. White Turnip. — A
sub-variety of the above, differing only

i Fig. 64.—OLIVE
in color; grown for the sake of variety. gyaprp RADISH.

French Breakfast.—A variety of quick growth, very
mild and tender, and one of the best for forcing; color
scarlet, tipped with white; of oval form.

Scarlet Olive-shaped.—An excellent variety; color
crimson, rather than scarlet ; small top; early.

LATE VARIETIES, GROWN FOR FALL
AND WINTER USE.

Yellow and Gray Turnip-rooted. — Varieties well
adapted for summer use, as they stand the heat better than
the early sorts; they are mild in flavor, but are but little
grown, as few relish Radishes at that season.

232 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

Rose-colored Chinese.—A valuable variety ; color pink
or rose; skin smooth; of sharp but agree«
able flavor. Keeps as well as any.
Black Spanish.—A very hardy variety
often preserved, keeps as well as any
other root in sand until mid-winter, in
cellar or root-house; large size; color
grayish-black; rather harsh in flavor.

RHUBARB.—(Rheum Rhaponticum.)

Rhubarb is now cultivated largely for

Fig. 65.—ROSE-
COLORED CHINESE a
RADISH. large cities, and few private gardens

are without it. Its culture is of the simplest kind. It is
a plant that adapts itself to almost any soil, provided it is

market purposes in the vicinity of all

well drained, artificially or otherwise. The preferable soil
for Rhubarb as for most vegetables, is a deep, sandy loam.
Whatever the soil, it should be plowed from 10 to 12
inches deep, the subsoil plow following in the wake of the
other, stirring to the depth of 10 or 12 inches more; after
plowing, harrow deeply and thoroughly.

After the soil is prepared, lines are struck out by the
plow 4 feet apart from each side of the field or plot, so
that they will intersect at right angles. At these points
the plants are set, first mixing with the soil 3 or 4 shovel-
fuls of well-rotted manure for each plant. The time of
planting in the Northern or Western States may be either
in the fall or spring; at the South the fall is preferable,

VEGETABLES—RHUBABRB. 233

Rhubarb is usually propagated by division of the old
roots; each eye or bud when broken apart with a root
attached, forming a plant. But making a plantation of
any great extent in this way is expensive to the beginner;
as the roots are rarely to be purchased under $50 per
1,000 eyes, and as about 3,000 plants are required to an
acre, quite an outlay is necessary.

This expense may be obviated by increasing the plants
by seeds instead of by division of the roots, In the
Northern States, the best time to sow the seed is about
March first, in a cold pit or frame, that is, such a pit
or frame as is used for keeping Cabbage or Lettuce plants
in during winter. The soil best suited is a rich sandy
loam, which should be thoroughly pulverized, and the
surface made completely level before sowing. One pound
of seeds, which will give about one thousand plants, will
be sufficient to sow six sashes, or about 100 square feet of
surface. After sowing, a soil made light with half its
bulk of leaf mould from the woods, should be evenly
spread over the seed to the depth of one quarter of an
inch, and then nicely patted down with the back of a
spade. This is necessary in the sowing of all seeds; for
if the soil which covers them is left too loose, the air gets
through and dries up the seed, so that they germinate
slowly or not at all. Thousands of dollars are annually
lost both on the farm and in the garden by the want of
this simple precaution. If the surface of the soil in the
frames becomes dry, it will be necessary to water, show-
ering freely from a fine rose watering-pot. If the sashes
are covered up by mats or shutters so that the soil never
becomes frozen, the plants will be large enough, if sown

234 GARDENING FOR PROFIT,

March Ist, to transplant by May 1st, but if not covered
up at night they will take three weeks longer. In local-
ities warm engugh to begin out-door operations by the.
end of February or the beginning of March, there will be
no need of sowing under sashes, as sowing in the open
air in the manner described, will do equally well.

The plants are fit to be transplanted into the open
ground when they are about an inch in height. The soil
to receive them should be enriched and pulverized in the
best manner, and the plants set out either in rows 12
inches apart and 3 inches between the plants, or in beds of
a convenient width, say 4 feet, and the plants set equi-
distant, 6 inches each way. By fall they will have grown,
if kept clear of weeds, so as to cover all the ground, and
may then, in the succeeding spring, be planted out per-
manently in the manner previously described.

The first season after planting, no stalks will be pulled,
but the next year a full return may be expected if proper
attention has been given to cultivation.

It is exceedingly difficult to name the annual profits
from an acre of Rhubarb in full bearing, as everything
depends upon earliness. Even here in the vicinity of
New York, growers vary in their statements from $100
to $500 per acre. The difference of a week in earliness
makes a difference of $200 and $300.

It may be safe to say, however, that it will average, in
this vicinity, a profit of $350 per acre annually, from the
date of planting; in many places where there is less com-
petition, no doubt double or treble that amount may be
realized. Rhubarb is a most simple and convenient plant
for forcing, which may be done in the following manner.

VEGETABLES—RHUBARB. 235

The roots are dug from the open ground in fall, put close
together in a box or barrel, and soil sifted in to fill the
interstices between the roots; they are then placed in a
situation where the temperature will range from 55° to
75°, with a moderate amount of moisture. By this treat-
ment, Rhubarb may be had from January to April. The
roots may be placed wherever there is the necessary tem-
perature; light is not at all necessary; in fact, the stalks
of Khubarb are much more crisp and tender when forced
without exposure to direct light; hence the roots may be
placed in the furnace room of a cellar, under the staging
of a greenhouse, or in an early forcing grapery. A florist
in Boston told me a few years ago, that he had sold
enough Rhubarb grown under his greenhouse stages, to
pay his coal bill (over $100), besides having all he wanted
for his family use. Rhubarb is forced quite extensively
by some of our market gardeners; the method pursued
by them is to lift the roots from the open ground in the
fall, place them as closely together as possible in such
pits or frames as are used for hot-beds, but about two
feet deep, sifting in soil so as to fill the spaces between
the roots. On the approach of cold weather, the whole
is covered over with a foot or so of dry leaves, and so re-
mains until about February first, when the leaves are
removed and sashes placed on the frames. Sometimes
this is not done until March, the sashes being then used
which have been covering Cabbage plants through the
winter. But little ventilation is given to the frames at
this cold season, as it is necessary to raise the tempera-
ture of the frame by the action of the sun’s rays, so as to
forward the crop. It greatly aids the forwarding if the

236 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

sashes are covered up at night by straw mats or shutters.
Rhubarb so forced matures about one month before it
is marketable from the open ground, and averages about
$10 for each 3x6 feet sash. It must be borne in mind,
however, that forcing to some extent injures the roots,
and for that reason it is only practised by those who have
a surplus that they would otherwise throw away.

The principal varieties in cultivation are:

Linnezus.—Early and best for general crop.

Victoria.—Later but much larger.

en 3 Oo eel

SAGE.—(Salvia officinalis,)
See Thyme, and other Sweet Herbs.

SALSIFY, OR OYSTER PLANT.
(Tragopogon porrifolius.)

This vegetable is coming rapidly into general use;
patches of an acre of extent are seen in some of the more
extensive gardens here, that a few years ago grew only a
few rows. It should be sown in early spring. Its cul-
ture is in all respects similar to that of Carrots, and al-
though its consumption is as yet limited, for what is grown
of it, the prices are high and very remunerative. It is more-
over a safe root to cultivate, for, being entirely hardy, there
is no risk whatever of its being injured by frost, should it
so happen that the digging up is neglected in the hurry

VEGETABLES—SALSIFY. 237

of fall work. It is generally better, however, to dig it up
and put it away as we do Parsnips or Carrots, so that it
| can be got at any time during winter.

\

oN

It usually sells at higher rates in spring,
than in fall or winter; but even with
the advance in price is less profitable to
the grower when sold in spring, as that
being a busy season, the labor expended
in digging it up and getting it ready, is
then of much more value.

, | Wi]
Wy

As this vegetable will be unknown to
many, I will state that it is used in vari-
ous ways, but generally boiled, or stew-
ed, like Parsnips or Carrots. It is also.
used to make a soup, which has a decid-
ed flavor of the Oyster. It is also eaten
as a salad, sliced and dressed with vine-
gar, salt, and pepper. There are no
varieties.

SCORZONERA—BLACK SALSIFY.

(Scorzonera Hispanica.)

\\

=
z
=

Very similar to the above in general
character, and of the same culture and.
Fig. 66.—sausiry. use. It is not, however, so generally
esteemed as the Oyster Plant, and is not grown except for
private use, and even for that purpose sparingly.

238 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

SEA KALE.—(Crambe maritima.)

This vegetable is much esteemed and grown largely for
market purposes, both in England and France, and no
private garden of any extent in either country, is consid-
ered complete without it. Here, however, we seem to
make but little headway in its cultivation. I have never
yet seen it offered for sale in our markets, and its culture
is practised in but few private gardens.

There is an impression that it is difficult of culture in
our climate; this is not so, by any means; it is equally as
easy to grow it here as it is in England, only that, like all
vegetables, requiring artificial heat for its perfection, its
cultivation is attended with more expense than that of veg-
etables that we plant in the open ground, without other
care than to keep them clear of weeds.

It is increased either by roots or by seed; when roots
can be obtained to start with, they are quicker. The
manner of operating with them is as follows: in fall, a
few old plants of Sea Kale are dug up, and the roots cut
in pieces of from 2 to 3 inches in length; these ace placed
in boxes of sand in a dry cellar, until February or March;
they are then strewn on the surface of a hot-bed, where,
in a week or two, they will emit roots and tops; they are
then potted, hardened off for a few weeks, and as soon a3
the weather is settled, planted out in rows 3 feet apart,
and 2 feet between the plants. If the ground is in the
condition that it should be, Sea Kale, thus treated,
will produce crowns strong enough to give a crop the
next season after planting. When grown from seed, the
seed should be sown in hills, at the above distances apart,
in early spring, each hill being thinned out to three or four

VEGETABLES—SEA KALE—SHALLOTS. 239

plants. In our colder latitudes, the crowns should be
covered by 4 or 6 inches of manure or leaves, as a protec-
tion from frost.

Sea Kale is only fit for use in the blanched state, conse-
quently, on the approach of
spring, the “ crowns” should
be covered with some light
material, such as sand or leaf
mold, to the depth of 12 or
15 inches, so that the young
shoot, being thus excluded
from the light, will become
blanched in growing through
this covering, or, sometimes
cans, made for the purpose,
or inverted flower pots, are
used, the only object being
to exclude light. In England
it is forced extensively, by
covering over the whole beds
with leaves, manure, or some
‘heating material. The young
shoots, when cooked, have
a flavor something between

Asparagus and Cauliflower,

Fig. 67.—sEA KALE. but is much preferred to
either. The engraving shows a young shoot, when ready
for the table. The fully developed leaves are large and
robust.

240 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

SHALLOTS,—(Allium ascalonicum.)

This vegetable, which is used in the green state in early
spring as a substitute for Onions, is planted by dividing
the bulb in September, and planting in rows 1 foot apart
and 6 inches between the plants; it makes a slight growth
and forms its roots in the fall. On the opening of spring,
it developes rapidly, and the single bulb, planted in Sep-
tember, will have increased, by May,a dozen fold. From
its hardy nature, coming in at least three weeks earlier
than the Onion, large quantities are sold, at rates corre-
sponding with those of Onions raised from sets. It, with us,
has ever been a profitable vegetable to raise, and I have
rarely found the profits on an acre to have been less than
$300. It is generally cleared off by the last week in May,
giving sufficient time to follow with second crops of
Early Cabbage, Beets, Turnips, ete.

SORREL.—(Rumez acetosa.)

A well-known perennial plant, cultivated to some ex-
tent with us. It is used in soups and sauces, mostly by
the Germans and French. In the French markets, it is
nearly as abundant as Spinach is in ours, and is highly re-
commended as a wholesome vegetable. Its cultivation is
very simple. Seeds, sown thinly in rows in early spring
will give a heavy crop of leaves in June and July; when
the flower-stalk of the Sorrel starts to grow, it should be
cut out, which will add greatly to the development of the
leaves. The crop may be left two seasons, but is more
tender when annually raised from seed.

VEGETABLES—SPINACH. 241

SPINACH.—(Spinacia oleracea.)

This is a very important crop in our market gardens,
nundreds of acres of it being cultivated in the neighbor-
nood of New York. It is one of the most manageable
of all vegetables, requiring but little culture, and may be
had fit for use the entire season.

In our market gardens, it is sown in early spring as an
auxiliary crop, between the rows of Early Cabbage; it
comes to perfection usually in five or six weeks after sow-
ing. At this season, it sells at a low price, usually from
50 cents to $1 per barrel; but it requires but little labor,
and generally pays about $75 per acre of profit. The
main and important crop is sown in drills, 1 foot apart, in
this section from 1st to 15th September, or late enough in
fall to get about half grown before cold weather sets in.
It is sometimes covered up, in exposed places, with straw
or salt hay during winter, which prevents it being cut
with the frost; but in sheltered fields, here, there is no
necessity for covering.

Any soil that will grow a good Corn crop, will grow
Spinach, though, as is the case with all other vegetables in
which the leaf or stem is the part used, the land can
hardly be made too rich. Our practice is to grow it on
our best soils, applying not less than 50 tons of well-
rotted stable manure to the acre, or, in lieu of stable man-
ure, one ton of bone-dust; or about 1,200 lbs. guano, sown
after plowing, and deeply harrowed in. The rows are
made with the ordinary garden “marker,” at the distance
of 12 or 15 inches apart. The seed is sown rather thickly,
we prefer to do it always by hand, using from 10 to 15
Ibs. per acre; when thickly sown, the plants can be

242 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

thinned out so that a much larger yield will be given,
We sow here from the 5th to the 15th of September, and
quite frequently sell, by thinning out, 50 or 75 barrels
from an acre, which usually, in October and November,
sells for $2 per barrel. This thinning out, which is done
by cutting out the plants where thickest with a knife, if
carefully performed, does not at all injure the main crop,
which is to stand over winter until spring. I may here
caution the inexperienced of the necessity of treading
down the soil on the seed, if the land is dry; the crop
is often ruined by the want of this precaution, in con-
tinued hot, dry spells that are frequent with us during
September. If the soil is left loose, the hot air shrivels
up the seed so that it will never germinate. If a. heavy
roller is not at hand, the best way is to tread in each row
with the feet. The same precaution is necessary in the
sowing for Cabbage and Lettuce plants; at this season
these are often lost from the same cause. There has some
question arisen of late whether the round or prickly
seeded Spinach is the best; as far as I can judge, it makes
but little difference which kind is used, though we use the
round almost exclusively, as it is the easiest to sow. The
price of Spinach in the New York market, last year in
February, for a few days, reached $10 per barrel, although
the average for the spring months of April and May (its
regular time of selling), was not more than $3 per barrel,
but fair crops give a yield of 200 barrels per acre; ata
high estimate, the expenses will not exceed $300 per acre,
so that it is safe to claim a net profit of $300, although ex-
traordinary crops often do much more than this. A near
neighbor of mine realized $900 from three-quarters of an

ia

VEGETABLES—SPINACH. 2438

acre last spring, getting the land cleared early enough in
-May to succeed the Spinach with acrop of Flat Dutch
Cabbage. Spinach is hardy enough to grow in almost
any part of the country; but in districts where the ther-
mometer falls below zero, it is necessary to cover it up
about Christmas with hay, straw, or leaves, to the depth
of two or three inches; it is best done just as a snow
storm is setting in, as the snow settles down the covering,
and keeps it from blowing off. Spinach is yet compara-
tively little grown for our Northern markets at the South,
but no doubt soon will be; in such latitudes as Charleston
and Savannah it should be sown in October and Novem-
ber, and would be in fine order for use in February. <At
this cool season it could be shipped with safety, as it will
remain in good condition for three or four days if packed,
and would command a rapid sale at the time when our
Northern crops are still frozen solid.

The varieties are very few.

Round,—This is the variety generally cultivated for
winter use, being remarkably hardy, and standing our se-
verest winters with but little injury. It is the main mar-
ket sort.

Prickly. — Although this variety is usually sown, in
spring and summer, it also stands well in winter, but gives
less bulk per acre than the first named.

244 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

SPINACH—SvusstITuTEs FoR.

As Spinach will not endure the hot suns of summer, it
running up to seed at once if sown in hot weather, several
plants are used as substitutes, and though these are not
grown for market, they are very convenient in the family
garden.

One of these is the Swiss Chard, mentioned under Beet,
several forms of which are sold as Spinach Beet and Per-
petual Spinach. Perhaps the best substitute for Spinach
in the summer months is the

New Zealand Spinach.—(Zetragonia expansa.)—A
plant of the same character and uses, but of a different
genus, and used only in private gardens. It is a remark-
able plant, of low branching habit, growing with wonder-
ful luxuriance during hot weather—single plants often
measuring 6 feet in diameter. The leaves are used ex-
actly as common Spinach; it is best grown by sowing the
seeds after the soil is well warmed, and transplanting to 3
feet apart in very rich, warm soil.

Orach.—(Atriplex hortensis.) — Another plant of the
same family, and its leaves are used in the same manner
as Spinach. It succeeds best if sown where it is to grow,
in rich moist soil.

ee Oe ee

SQUASH.—(Cucurbita Pepo, and C. maxima.)

A class of vegetables embracing more marked distine-
tions in sorts, fitted for more varied uses, and to be found,
during the extremeg of the season, in a better state of per-
fection, than, perhaps, any other product of our gardens.
Being of tropical origin, their growth is all consummated

VEGETABLES—SQU ASH. 245

during summer; yet the fruit of the “ winter varieties’

may be kept, with a little care, until May. They are all
of luxuriant and vigorous growth, and although they will
grow readily on almost any soil, yet there is hardly
anything cultivated that will so well repay generous treat-
ment. Like all plants of this class, it is useless to sow
antil the weather has become settled and warm; next to
Lima Beans, Squashes should be the last vegetable plant-
ed. Light soils are best suited for their growth, and it is
most economical of manure to prepare hills for the seeds,
in the ordinary manner, by incorporating two or three
shovelfuls of well rotted manure with the soil, for each
hill. For the Bush varieties, from 3 to 4 feet each way,
and for the running sorts from 6 to 8 feet. Eight or ten
seeds should be sown in each hill, thinning out after they
have attained their rough leaves, leaving three or four o1
the strongest plants.

They are extensively grown for market, but are not suf
ficiently profitable for our highly cultivated gardens, and
are therefore grown rather as a farm-garden crop. They
give a varying profit, in our vicinity, of from $100 to $10
per acre. The early varieties are grown quite extensively
in the vicinity of Norfolk, Charleston, and Savannah, and
shipped North, from two to four weeks earlier than they
can be had here, and like all such commodities, bring
three or four times the price of those grown in the vicini-
ty, in quantities that glut the market.

The yarieties are very numerous, and from the facility
with which they will cross, it is very difficult to retain the
different kinds pure.

2946 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

SUMMER VARIETIES.

Yellow and White Bush Scalloped. — These are the
two varieties that are esteemed the most early, and are
such as are almost exclu-
sively grown for market,
for the first crop; from the
hard texture of the rind,
they are well fitted for
shipping, and are the sorts
grown exclusively at the
South for that purpose.

Fig. 68.—WwHITE-BUSH SCALLOPED
ee The characters of these va-

rieties are very decided, never presenting any variation.
Plant 3 to 4 feet apart in hills. |

Summer Crook-neck.— A much esteemed variety in
private gardens, somewhat similar in growth to the Bush;
rather more dwarf. The fruit is orange-yellow, covered
with warty excrescences; usually from 7 to 9 inches long;
considered the best flavored of the summer varieties.

Boston Marrow.—tThis variety may be termed second
early, coming in about ten days after the Bush and Crook-
neck sorts. The skin, which is of a yellowish shade, is
very thin; the flesh thick, dry and fine grained, and of
unsurpassed flavor.

FALL, OR WINTER VARIETIES.

Hubbard.—A general favorite, and more largely grown
as a late sort than any other; it is of large size, often
weighing from 9 to 10 Ibs. Color blueish-green, occasion-
ally marked with brownish-orange or yellow; flesh fine

VEGETABLES—SQUASH—SWEET POTATO. 247

grained, dry, and of excellent flavor. It can be had in
use from September to May. Hills 8 feet apart.

Marblehead.—A new variety, introduced by Mr. Greg-
ory, as surpassing all other kinds in richness and excel-
lence of flavor. It resembles the Hubbard in shape, but .
has a harder shell than that variety, and is heavier in
proportion to its size; the flesh is also of a lighter color,
and fine-grained. It is productive, and a fine keeper.

Yokohama.—A variety sent from Japan by Mr. Thomas
Hogg, in 1860. The fruit is roundish, deeply ribbed;
color orange-salmon; thickly warted; flesh thick, very
dry, sweet, and excellent ; maturing earlier than the Hub-
bard, but not so desirable for winter. Plant 8 feet apart.

Winter Crook-neck.—A variety largely grown in some
of the Eastern States, where it is said to be kept the en-
tire season. Skin reddish-pink, when matured; flesh
close-grained, sweet. Plant in hills 9 feet apart.

Vegetable Marrow.—This variety is a favorite English
sort; the fruit is very variable in size, from 9 to 18 inches
in length, by from 4 to 6 inches in diameter. The skin is
greenish-yellow; flesh white, soft, and of rich flavor; very
distinct from all of the preceding. Plant in hills, at 8 feet.

SWEET POTATO.—(lpomea Batatas.)

The Sweet Potato requires a rich, light, warm soil. It
is more generally grown in the Southern States than the
common Potato, as there the soil and climate are more
congenial to it. We have often difficulty, in this district,

248 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

in saving the tubers sound enough until spring, to start
for sprouting to produce young plants. The great essen-
tials to their good preservation, are a dry and rather
warm atmosphere; the cellar, suitable to preserve the
common Potato, being usually much too cold and damp
for this. Where there is no place of the necessary high
temperature, it is best to get them in spring direct from
some southern market, where they can always be had in
good condition; or they can be kept by packing in bar-
rels in dry sand, and keeping them ina warm room. In
this district, we begin to start the tubers in hot-beds or
forcing pits, about the middle of April, laying them thickly
together on a 2-inch layer of sand and leaf-mold compost-
ed together, (or sand alone will suit if leaf-mold cannot
be had); as soon as the buds or eyes show signs of start-
ing, cover the tubers completely over to the thickness of
an inch with the same material. Treat as for other tender
plants in the hot-bed or forcing pit, and the sprouts or slips
will be ready for planting out by the first of June.

Market gardeners often make the sale of Sweet Potato
plants a very profitable operation, immense, quantities of
them being sold to private growers at the planting season.
As the sprouts from the tubers come up very thickly, re-
peated thinnings are made, which is not only profitable to
the grower, but of great advantage to the remaining plants,
by giving them the necessary room to grow. One grower,
in this vicinity, informed me that last season he sold up-
wards of $1000 worth of plants from 150 sashes. The
profit from the cultivation of the plant in the field is
something less than that from Tomatoes, but more than
from the common Potato.

VEGETABLES—SWEET POTATO—TOMATO, 249

In this latitude, the Sweet Potato should never be
planted much earlier than the first of June; it is very
susceptible of being chilled, and the weather is rarely set-
tled and warm enough to be safe here before June. Pre-
pare the hills as for Tomatoes, 4 feet apart, planting three
plants in each, or if in rows or ridges, 4 feet apart, and ]
foot between the plants; in either case requiring from
8,000 to 10,000 plants per acre.

The following are the sorts mostly grown.

Nansemond.—This is the earliest sort; tubers large,
from 3 to 4 inches in diameter at the thickest part, taper-
ing to each end, and from 5 to 8 inches long; flesh dry
sweet and well flavored. ;

Red Skinned.—This variety is claimed to be hardier -
than the preceding, but it is doubtful if this is the case.
It is a long, slender variety, mostly grown in private gar-
dens, and is believed to be of a richer flavor than the yel-
low or white sorts.

Yellow Skinned.—This sort is mainly cultivated in the
Southern States, where it attains nearly the weight of the
Nansemond; it requires a longer season than that variety,
and is not so suitable for the North. It is of excellent
flavor, and more free from stringiness than any other sort.

TOMATO.—(Lycopersicum esculentum.)

This vegetable is one of the most. important of all gar-
den products; hundreds of acres are now planted with it
in the vicinity of all large cities, and the facility with

250 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

which it is managed, places it readily under the contro! of
the least experienced. It is now grown here almost en-
tirely by those who grow Peas, Potatoes, Melons, and
other crops of the “ farm gardens,” as our market gardens
proper are too highly enriched and much too limited in ex
tent to render the cultivation of the Tomato profitable.
To produce early crops, the seed must be put down in hot-
beds or forcing pits, about ten weeks before the plants are
safe or fit to put in the open ground. Thus, in this dis-
trict, we sow-in a hot-bed about the first week ‘in
March; in April, the plants are fit to be set out, at a dis-
tance of 4 or 5 inches apart, in another hot-bed. They
are grown there (proper attention being given to the hot-
beds as directed under that head) until the middle of
May, when they are safe to place in the open ground.
They are planted, for early crops, on light sandy soil, at a
distance of 3 feet apart, in hills, in which a good shevelfull
of rotted manure has been mixed. On heavy soils, which
- are not suited for an early crop, they should be planted
4 feet apart. Some attach great importance to topping
the leading shoot of the Tomato, so that it branches,
arguing that by this means we get an earlier and heavier
crop; all our experience shows that no benefit whatever is
derived from the practice. Like all vegetables grown on
so large a scale, and in such varying soil and climate, the
Tomato sells in our markets at prices varying widely, from
$10 down to 25 cents per bushel. The average price for
those raised in the district, being about $1 per bushel.
The quantity raised per acre is about 400 bushels. This
may seem at first glance to be quite a profitable crop for
a farmer; but, every acre necessitates the use of at least

VEGETABLES—TOMATO. 251

100 sashes, for, on the second transplanting, about fifty
plants only can be grown in a sash, and about 5000 plants
are required for an acre. On one occasion, having a very
suitable soil, I grew about four acres of Tomatoes for
three years, which realized me from $1500 to $2000 annu-
ally in recetpts ; but I discovered that the operation was
a losing one, as, to raise 20,000 plants for my four acres,
I had to make use of 400 sashes, in which, in rather less
time and with far less labor than it took to grow the To-
mato plants, Lettuce could have been grown that would
have sold for at least $2 per sash. Thus [ lost annually,
in preparing for the Tomato plants, half the receipts of the
crop, before ever they were even planted. But there are
many parts of the country where Lettuce, thus forward-
ed, could not be sold, while Tomatoes could, which would
materially change the aspect of the operation. In the
southern sections of the country, convenient to shipping,
Tomatoes are largely grown for the northern markets, and
there sold at prices highly remunerative to the grower.
In many instances, in the Southern States, the cultivation
of Tomatoes for market is carelessly done, the seed being
merely sown in the open ground and replanted, as we grow
Cabbages. No doubt, by starting in January or Febru-
ary with the hot-beds, or even cold frames, and planting
out in March or April, they could be had at least two
weeks earlier than they are now sent to us.

There are always some one or more varieties, said to
be earlier than others, sent out every spring, but it must
be confessed that the varieties that we cultivated twenty
years ago are not. in earliness a day behind those issued

« “vastly superior” in 1866. Last spring, to test them

252 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

thoroughly, I planted twenty-five plants each of the four
most popular sorts, under circumstances exactly similar in
all respects ; there was no difference whatever in earliness,
and but little perceptible difference in productiveness.

In my opinion, the extreme point of earliness in toma-
toes has been reached years ago, and now all further im-
provements must be in point of size, smoothness, and so-
lidity ; and that any one laying claim to having varieties
a specified number of days or weeks earlier than those we
already have, does so without having a knowledge of the
subject, or with the desire to impose on the public. The
tomato is a plant requiring at all times a certain high
temperature to ripen its fruit; and though it may ripen in
Georgia in May, in Virginia in June, in Delaware in July,
or in New Jersey in August, it requires the same aggre-
gate amount of heat to do the work. 'Thesame is true of
most fruits and vegetables; we reach a certain point of
earliness with a given variety in a given locality, when
the temperature tells us we must stop. If improvement
in earliness was progressive, we might have reason to ex-
pect that the Radish or Lettuce, which matures with us
in the open ground here in May, would yet mature in
April.

I believe that our ordinary methods of saving Tomato
and all other seeds have, in fact, much to do in preventing
us making any advance in procuring choice varieties; if
we would only take the trouble to always select the first
matured fruits, and the best specimens only, for seeds, and
so continue, there is no question whatever, but it would
amply repay the trouble. But the grower for market
grudges to give up his first basket of fruit, that may realize

VEGETABLES—TOMATO. 953

him $5 or $10, for a few ounces of seed, knowing that he
can get plenty when his crop is not worth the gathering
for market. But, depend upon it, he makes a mistake,
for the seed from his first fruits would, perhaps, pay him
a hundred times better, if used for seed, the next year, than
any price he might get for it in the market.

In private gardens, where space is often limited, a
greater quantity of fruit will be obtained by elevating
the branches of the Tomato from the ground with brush,
such as is used for sticking Peas, or by tying to laths
nailed against a board fence; or, what is neater yet, the
hoop training system as practised in France. But for
market purposes, on a large scale, it would require too
much labor.

The following are a few of the many varieties grown.

The Trophy.— When Col. Waring advertised this varie-
ty at 25 cents per seed, or 20 seeds for $5, few thought he
would find many purchasers at such a price; but the uni-
versal interest taken in this fruit and the confidence placed
in Mr. Waring’s statements, led to the sale of seeds to a
large amount to growers in all parts of the country.

Thad seen the “ Trophy” growing, the previous season,
at “ Ogden Farm,” at Newport, R. L, and while I felt that
Mr. Waring’s description was by no means exaggerated,
I declined to give him my opinion until it had been tested
in other localities, where soil and climate were different.
In 1870 I planted out a couple of dozen plants which had
been started in the usual way, and tied them to stakes.
Under the same conditions I planted the “New York
Market,” and “ Rising Sun,” the varieties we considered
the best and earliest of last year’s experiment. In earli-

254 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

ness, the “Trophy” had no perceptible advantage over
the other two~ but in size, smoothness, and beauty of
coloring, as well as in solidity and flavor, it certainly ex-
ceeded them. So that taking it all and all, I believe it to
be thus far unexcelled, whether grown for private use or
for market purposes. This opinion I find very generally
concurred in, in all sections of the country wherever it has
been submitted to a trial test with others.

Early Smooth Red.—A very old variety, but one
which, for general crop for market purposes, I believe is

S =
-7?S = — st —, =
—

Fig. 69,—EARLY SMOOTH RED TOMATO.

yet unsurpassed. In the trial above referred to, it was
tested with the Cook’s Favorite, Tilden, and Powells
Early, and with no perceptible advantage in earliness to
either, but the Early Smooth presented the greatest
amount of marketable fruit. This variety is of medium
size ; rich coral-red ; roundish ; much flattened ; very solid.

A very superior variety; fruit large,

General Grant.
round in form, slightly flattened, very smooth and sym-
metrical. It ripens rapidly and thoroughly, is very solid,
productive, and of good quality.

VEGETABLES—TOMATO—TURNIP. 235

The Cook’s Favorite.—Differing but little from the
preceding, except in shape of the fruit, which is rounder
and less flattened. It is grown largely of late years in
the neighborhood of Philadelphia, and in southern New
Jersey, but is not yet a “favorite” in New York.

Feijee Island, or Lester’s Perfected.—The fruit of this
variety is of the largest size; color reddish-pink; very
solid, and well flavored; a most abundant bearer. Its
lateness, as well as its objectionable color, make it of lit-
tle value as a market sort, but it is still grown by many.

Red and Yellow Plum.—Beautiful varieties, never ex-
ceeding 2 inches in length, by 1 inch in diameter. They
are mainly used for pickling and preserving.

Tree Tomato, or Tomate de Laye.—This variety is en-
tirely distinct from all the others, in its upright and tree-
like habit. It was introduced to this country some six or
seven years ago, from France, but has never shown any
quality deserving general cultivation, and is now only
grown in private gardens more as a half useful curiosity
than anything else.

TURNIP.—(Brassica campestris.)

The cultivation of the Turnip as an early crop for mar-
ket purposes, sold bunched in the green state, is in all re-
spects the same as detailed for Early Beets. The profits
of the crop are also similar. The Turnip, however, for
early crops, is rather more particular about soil than the

256 GARDENING FOR PROFIT,

Beet, and can best be produced early on light sandy or
gravelly soils, highly enriched with manure.

For late crops, sowings may be made, for Ruta Bagas,
from May to September, in the different sections of the
country; here, the finest roots are obtained by sowing
about first week in June. For white and yellow varieties, —
as they come quicker to maturity, sowing should be de-
layed four or five weeks later. Here, we sow from the
middle of July to the middle of August.

Turnips, whether for early or late crops, should always
be sown in drills, about 14 or 18 inches apart. In large
quantities, they are sown by the machine, when one pound
of seed will be enough for an acre. In the Northern
States, it is necessary to take them up on the approach of
severe weather, when they are best preserved during win-
ter by being pitted, as recommended for other roots. The
late crops of Turnips are by no means so profitable as the
early, rarely realizing to the grower more than $75 per
acre; but like most other late crops of the garden or
farm, they can be grown with less manure, are less perish-
able if not immediately sold, and are consequently grown
by the farmer on his less valuable but more extensive
grounds.

The following are the leading varieties grown.

Purple Top Strap-leaved.—The variety mainly grown
for early crop, attaining, when well grown, a diameter of
5 to 6 inches, but is first gathered for market use at about
half that size. It is a firm, solid variety, free from spon-
giness, of very handsome appearance; the lower two-
thirds of the root is white, while the upper portion has a
well defined line of purple.

VEGETABLES—RUTA BAGA, Q57

White Strap-leaved,— This favorite sort has the
same shape as the Purple Top, but entirely white; it is
equally early, and by some thought to be the best of all
in flavor; but is less salable in market, its appearance
being less attractive.

Yellow Aberdeen,—This is an excellent variety for culi-
nary use, though not so early as the preceding; the bulb
is nearly round, of a dull yellow beneath, and purple or
green at top. It is a very solid variety, keeping well
throughout the winter, and as it attains a greater weight
under favorable conditions, is much grown for stock.

RUTA BAGA, OR SWEDES TURNIP.

Improved American.— The leading variety of this
division of the family; is grown very largely for winter
sale in our northern markets. Under different culture, it
assumes a great difference of shape and size, average speci-
mens being 6 inches long, by 4 or 5 inches wide. It is
always hard and solid, and is perhaps specifically heavier
than any other vegetable root cultivated.

Laing’s Purple Top.—A rather late variety, but, in
good land, giving enormous crops. It produces a great
abundance of leaves, and for this reason requires at least
a space of 18 inches between the rows, and 12 inches be-
tween the plants. In shape, it is nearly round; smooth
skinned, and handsome,

258 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

THYME, SAGE, SUMMER SAVORY, AND MAR-
JORAM.

I believe the cultivation of Sweet Herbs, for market
purposes, is but little known in this country, except in the
vegetable gardens in the vicinity of New York; there it
is practised to an extent of perhaps 60 or 70 acres, a fair
average product of which would be about $500 per acre.
Like the crops of Celery, Spinach, or Horseradish, they
are grown only as a second crop, that is, they are planted
in July, after an early crop of Peas, Cabbages, Beets, or
Onions has been sold off. The varieties are Thyme, Sage,
Summer Savory, and Sweet Marjoram, the former two
being grown in the ratio of ten acres to one of the others.

The seed is sown in April in rich mellow soil, carefully
kept clean from weeds until the plants are fit to set out,
which may be done any time that the ground is ready
from middle of June until end of July. As the plants are
usually small and delicate, it is necessary that the ground
be well fined down by harrowing and raking before plant-
ing. The distance apart, for all the varieties, is about the
same, namely, 12 inches between the rows, and 8 or 10
inches between the plants; the lines are marked out by
the “marker.” (This is the “marker” used for many
other purposes; in lining out the rows for Early Cab-
bages, for instance, every alternate line is planted, thus
leaving them 2 feet apart, their proper distance.) In
eight or ten days after the herb crop has been planted, the
ground is “hoed” lightly over by a steel rake, which dis-
turbs the surface sufficiently to destroy the crop of weeds
that are just beginning to germinate; it is done in one
third of the time that it could be done by a hoe, and an-

SWEET HERBS—~THYME—SAGE—ETC. 259

swers the purpose quite as well, as deep hoeing at this
early stage of planting is perfectly useless. In ten or
twelve days more, the same operation is repeated with
the steel rake, which usually effectually destroys all weeds
the seeds of which are near enough to the surface to
germinate. We use the steel rake in lieu of a hoe on all
yur crops, immediately after planting, for, as before said,
leep hoeing on plants of any kind when newly planted,
Ԥ quite unnecessary, and by the steady application of the
take, weeds are easily kept down, and it is great economy
of labor never to allow them to start. By the middle of
September the herb crop usually covers the ground com-
pletely, looking like a field of clover. Allow this mass to
grow for another month as it is, and you would not in-
crease the weight of leaves; the plants would grow taller,
keeping the green and marketable leaves on the top, but
only yellow and withered ones and plenty of woody stems
below. But by cutting out: every alternate row (each
plant making about two bunches), the remaining rows are
allowed light and air, and in three or four weeks will have
spread so as again to cover up the entire surface, from
which half the crop has already been gathered. Wetreat
Thyme in all respects the same as Sage; and I haveseen
both these herbs on rich soil not only meet when left 2
feet apart, but when again every other row at 2 feet apart
was cut out, almost meet at 4 feet apart.

By this method of cutting out every other row, fully a
double crop is taken, and of a quality superior to what it
would be were it allowed to grow without being thus
thinned out. About 18 years ago I was lucky enough to
discover the importance of this plan of doubling our crops

260 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

of herbs; and as I had not, in those days, begun to tell
“what I know about gardening,” I kept my own counsel
for some years before my neighbors discovered the plan.

Herbs are regarded as a very safe crop for the mar-
ket gardener; they are less perishable than anything else
grown, for, if there be any interruption to their sale ina
green state, they can be dried and boxed up and sold in
the dry state, months after, if necessary. The usual price
is from $10 to $15 per 1,000 bunches, and we always pre-
fer to dry them rather than sell lower than $10 per 1,000,
experience telling us that the market will usually so reg-
ulate itself as to handsomely pay for holding back the
sale. The cost of getting the crop raised and marketed
will average about $150 per acre, the principal expense
being in tying it in bunches. But with many of our in-
dustrious German gardeners it does not cost half that, as
the tying up is usually done by their wives and children.

There are but few varieties among Herbs, but of Zhyme
there are several, and it is very important to plant only
what is known as the “spreading variety”; an upright
sort, sometimes sold, is worthless as a market crop. The
Sage, known as the Broad-leaved, is the best.

I am often asked, by correspondents at a distance, in
relation to the best way of selling herbs in New York
City. I will here say, that there is no certain sale that I
know of, unless they are in the green state. The season
for selling is October, November, and December; and if
shipped in open crates, so arranged by divisions of slats
that not more than 8 or 9 inches of a layer would be to-
gether, they could be shipped at that cool season to dis-
tances requiring fifty or sixty hours in the transit.

MONTHLY CALENDAR.

The success of all garden operations depends upon
preparatory measures; for this reason, the beginner in
the business can be much benefited by being reminded, as
he goes along, of the work necessary to be done to ensure
successful results in the future. To do this, I must to
scme extent repeat directions given in the body of the
work, but as they will be presented here in a condensed
form, they will not tax the time of the reader. As in all
other references made to dates, the latitude of New York
is taken as a basis, that being not only the point from
which our experience has mostly been derived, but also
one that will best suit the majority of readers throughout
the country. Those whose location is more southerly or
northerly must use their judgment in adapting the direc-
tions to suit their locality.

January.—Vegetation in our Northern States is com
pletely dormant during this month, so that, as far as opera-
tions in the soil are concerned, it might be a season of
leisure; but the business of gardening being one that so

largely requires preparation, there is always plenty to do.
261

262 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

The ground being usually frozen, and giving us good
hauling, it is always the month in which our energies are
given to getting manure, muck, lime, etc., into conveni-
ent places for spring work. Care should be taken to get
manure in heaps large enough to generate sufficient heat
to prevent its being frozen, so that it can be turned and
broken up thoroughly before it is spread upon the ground.
This work is often very slovenly performed, and the value
of manure much reduced by inattention to turning and
breaking it up during winter. Sometimes it is injured by |
being thinly scattered, so that it freezes solid; and again,
if thrown into large heaps, and left unturned, it burns by
violent heating, getting in the condition which gardeners
eall “fire fanged.” It is always an indication that the
manure heap needs turning when it is seen to emit vapor,
no matter how often it has been turned previously, for it
should always be borne in mind that it quickly loses by
heating, while it always gains by a thorough breaking up
in turning.

January is sonny the month in which we have our
heaviest snow storms, which often entail on us an immense
amount of necessary, though unprofitable labor, not only
in clearing roads, but also in clearing off the snow from
our cold frames and forcing pits, for even at this season of
dormant vegetation, light is indispensable to the well-be.
ing of our vegetable plants; wnless they are ina frozen
condition, that is, if we have had a continuation of zero
weather, all our plants of Cabbage, Lettuce, Cauliflower,
etc., are frozen in the cold frames; if im this state, the
glass is covered up by snow, it is unnecessary to remove
it even for two or three weeks, but if the weather has

MONTHLY CALENDAR. 263

been mild so that the plants under the sashes have not
been frozen when covered by snow, then the snow must
be cleared from the glass as soon as practicable. In the
green-houses, hot-beds, or forcing pits, where artificial heat
is used, the removal of the snow from the glass is of the
utmost consequence,

If not done in December, the final covering up of Cel-
ery trenches, root pits, and all things requiring protection
from frost, should be attended to in the first week of this
month.

Should the ground be open enough to allow of dig:
ging, (which occasionally occurs here even in January)
let all roots, remaining in the ground, be dug up and pit-
ted, as another chance is not likely to occur before spring.
Cold frames and forcing pits, particularly the former,
should be aired whenever the weather will permit, for it
is necessary, to carry them safely through until spring,
that they may be properly hardened. (See article on
Cold Frames.)

Frepruary.—The gardening operations differ but little
from those of January, except that in the latter part of the
month, as the days lengthen and the sun gets brighter,
more air may be given to framing and forcing pits. Hot
manure should now be got forward to be prepared for hot-
beds, and if desired, some may be formed this month. (See
article on Hot-beds.) Have all tools purchased or repair-
ed, so that no time may be lost in the more valuable days
of next month. It is important to have always spare
tools of the leading kinds, so that men may not be thrown
idle, at a hurried season, by the breaking of a fork, spade,
‘or hoe. In harness and implements, connected with the

264 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

teams, it is of great importance to have spare parts to
replace those liable to be broken; otherwise, frequently
half a day is lost, by the breaking of a whifile-tree, or
plow share, causing more loss by delay, than three or four
times the cost of the article.

Marcu—is one of the busiest months in the year with us.
Hot-beds are made, and planted or sown, and Lettuce er ops
may be ‘planted 3 in cold frames and forcing pits, (see direc-
tions under these heads). In the latter part of the month
we often begin, on dry soils, the sowing or planting in the —
open ground of such hardy vegetables as Horseradish,
Cabbage, Lettuce, Onions, Radishes, Turnips, etc., etc.
Although we gain but little in earliness by starting before
April, yet it forwards our operations, so that it equalizes
labor more than when starting late in spring. Enthusi-
astic beginners must avoid the too common error of be-
ginning out-door operations too soon, when the soil is
not sufficiently dry; for, if the soil is dug or plowed while
wet, it is highly injurious, not only destroying the pres-
ent crop, but injuring the land for years after.

New plantations of Asparagus, Rhubarb, Sea Kale, and
Artichokes may be made, and old beds top-dressed, by
tigging in short manure close around the plants; we con-
sider it more economical of manure to do this in spring,
than in fall, (See Asparagus.)

Such roots as Cabbage, Carrot, Celery, Leek, Lettuce,
Onion, Parsnip, etc., planted to produce seed, may be set
out the latter part of this month, on soils that are warm
and dry, drawing earth up around the crowns so as to
protect them from sharp frosts; in hoeing, in April, this
soil is removed.

MONTHLY CALENDAR. 265

Where extra laborers are wanted for the garden, I have
always considered it economy to secure them in the early
part of March, even a week or two before they are really
needed, for if the hiring of them is delayed until the rush
of work is upon us, we often have to pay higher rates for:
inferior hands, and have less time to initiate them in thei
duties. To such as require large numbers of hands, and
look to such ports as New York for emigrants, let me cau-
tion my friends from the rural districts not to believe too
implicitly in the promises of these prospective American
citizens. Much vexatious experience has taught me
that one out of every three men is either worthless, or
will run away, so that for many years back, if I wanted
four hands, I made one job of it and hired six, well know-
ing, that before a week had passed, my force would be
reduced to the required number.

Aprit—brings nearly all the operations of the garden
imder way, the planting and sowing of all the hardy vari-
eties of vegetables is completed this month. (See table,
in article on Seed Sowing). Look well to the hot-beds,
cold frames, or forcing pits; they will require abundance
of air, and, (where artificial heat is used), plenty of water;
we have now bright sunshine, promoting rapid vegetation
under glass, and to have heavy crops, they must not be
stinted in water. Hot-beds are particularly critical in this
month; an hour or two of neglect, in giving air, may
quickly scorch the tender plants that you have been
nursing with so much care for a month previous; and a
balmy April day may terminate in a stinging frost at
night, making short work of your hot-beds if they are
not well covered up by straw mate.

266 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

Plantations of Asparagus, Rhubarb, etc., if not made
last month, should now be done, as those set out later than
April, will not make such a vigorous growth. Succession
crops of Lettuce, Beets, Cabbage, Onions, Peas, Potatoes,
Radishes, Spinach, Turnips, etc., may be planted or sown
during the latter part of the month, to succeed those
planted in March and early part of April.

The early sown crops should be hoed, and the ground
stirred close to the young plants, so as to destroy the germ
of the weeds now appearing.

May.—Although the bulk of the hardy vegetables is
now planted, yet the tender varieties are still to come; they
require more care as they are more susceptible of injury,
by too early or injudicious planting, than the others. In
the early part of the month, the succession crops, named
in April, may be yet planted so as to produce good crops,
and the tender varieties, such as Bush Beans, Corn, Melon,
Okra, Pepper, Squash, Tomato, may be sown or planted
after the middle of the month; but EHgg Plants, Sweet
Potatoes, Lima Beans, and Peppers, had better be delayed
to the last week in May. The first produce of the spring
plantings will now be ready for use. Lettuce or Radishes,
planted in cold frames in March, are matured from 5th to
20th May, and if covered up by straw mats at night, ten
days earlier. In warm situations, on rich, light soils, the’
Radishes, Lettuce, Turnips, or Peas, planted in March, are
fit for market. Rhubarb and Asparagus are also fit to be
gathered, on early soils, the latter part of the month.

Additional labor is now beginning to be required,
the marketing of crops occupying a large portion of the
time, while the thinning out of sown crops, and the keep-

MONTHLY CALENDAR. 267

ing down of weeds which are now showing themselves
everywhere, entails an amount of labor not before neces-
sary. To withhold labor at this critical time, is short-
sighted economy, whether by the owner of a private
or market garden; for let the crops planted and sown,
once get enveloped by weeds, it will often cost more in
labor to clean the crop, than it will sell for; it is not at all
an uncommon occurrence to see acres of Carrots or Par
snips plowed down, after being carefully manured and
sown, from neglect or inability of the owner to procure
labor at the proper time. The rapid development of weeds
is, to the inexperienced, very deceptive; a crop of Car-
rots, Parsnips, Beets, or Onions, may appear to be easily
manageable at a given day in May; but a few days of con-
tinued rain occurs, and the crop, that could have been
profitably cultivated on the 15th, is hopelessly over-grown
on the 25th.

JUNE is one of the months in which we reap the reward
of our operations in the market garden; at this time,
the bulk of all the early crops matures. So far, nearly all
has been outlay; now we receive the returns. In this
district, our early crops of Asparagus, Beets, Cauliflower,
Cabbage, Lettuce, Onion, Peas, Radishes, Rhubarb, Spin-
ach, and Turnip, are sold off, and the ground plowed for
the second crop, (except in the cases of Asparagus and
Rhubarb), by the end of the month. For private gar-
dens, succession crops of Beets, Bush Beans, Cabbages,
Cucumbers, Lettuce, Peas, Radishes, and Potatoes, may
still be planted, but it would hardly be profitable for mar-
ket purposes; as it would occupy the land wanted by the
market gardener for his second crop, besides the market

268 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

buyer of the cities will hardly touch a vegetable or fruit be.
hind its season at any price. He will pay 10 cents per bunch
for Radishes in May, and will pass by a far better article
of the same kind in July or August, though offered at one-
fifth the price. He will give 50 cents per quart for Toma-
toes, (half-ripe), in June, that he could not be induced to
touch in October, if he could buy them at 25 cents per
bushel.

The Cucumbers, planted in cold frames and forcing
pits, are also marketable in the latter part of this month,
Great care must be taken to have them abundantly water-
ed in dry weather; inattention to watering, (particularly
of all vegetables under glass), is sure to entail loss on the
cultivator, by giving an imperfect or partial crop. Water-
ing had better be done in the evening, whenever the surface
appears dry, not by a mere sprinkling, but by a thorough
soaking; not less than a gallon to every square yard of
surface. As soon as the Cucumbers are all cut from the
frames, the sashes should be piled up at the ends of each
section, and covered with a shutter, and a weight of some
kind put on the top, to prevent them being blown off by
high winds.

JuLy.—The remaining part of the spring crops are
cleared off in the early part of this month, and by the
middle of it, unless the season is unusually dry, all the
ground is planted with the second crops of Celery, Sage,
Thyme, Late Cabbage, Broccoli, Cauliflower, or Leeks.
Little is done to these crops this month, as but little
growth is made during the hot dry weather, and newly
planted crops are merely stirred between the rows with
the hoe or cultivator. Some of the other later crops are now

MONTHLY - CALENDAR. 269

maturing for market. Bush Beans, Cucumbers, Potatoes,
Squashes, and in early places, Tomatoes; also succession
crops of Peas, Beets, Onions, Cabbages, etc., such of
these as only mature during the end of the month, render
the second crops rather late, unless for the later crops of
Celery and Spinach.

Aveust.—Except the months of January and Febru-
ary, August is a month requiring less labor in the market
garden than any other; usually all the planting has been
done in July, and the long drouths common at this season,
stagnate the growth of even our most luxuriant weeds,
so that in this month, of all others, the garden ought
to be clean.

Late plantings of Celery may be made, to the middle of
the month, and still make fair-sized roots for winter.
Spinach may also be sown for an early crop, to be cut off
in fall. Ruta Baga Turnips should be sown early in the
month, and the white and yellow varieties during the later
part. If the fly attacks them, it may be kept down, so as
to do but little harm, by frequent applications of lime.
dusted lightly over the rows. Bush Beans and Peas, may
still be sown for late crops. The Onion crop will ripen
off during this month, and when convenient to market,
should be offered for sale as soon as gathered, as the
price received for those first sold, is frequently double that
of those coming in ten days later.

SEPTEMBER.—The cool nights and moist atmosphere of
this month begin to tell strikingly on the crops planted for
fall use; Celery, Cabbage, and Cauliflower, now grow rap-
idly, and require repeated stirring of the soil with the
plow, cultivator, or hoe. Celery, that is wanted for use

wt

270 _GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

towards the latter part of the month, may now be “han-
dled,” or straightened up, and the earth drawn to it by
the hoe; in a week or so after, it may be “banked up”
by the spade to half its hight, allowed to grow for an-
other week or more, until it lengthens out a little further,
when the banking should be continued as high as its top.
In ten days, (at this season), when thus finished, it is
blanched ‘sufficiently to use, and should then be used, or
it will soon spoil. Care must be taken that no more is
banked up than can be sold or used, as it is not only
labor lost, but is decidedly hurtful to the Celery, by mak-
ing it hollow. The practice recommended by most au-
thorities, and still practiced by private gardeners, is, to
keep earthing it up every two weeks from the time it
begins to grow; this is utter nonsense, resulting in giving
Celery tough, stringy, and rusty —utterly unfit to eat,
while the expenditure in labor would be twice more than
the price it would bring if sold; for further information
on this important subject, see article on Celery. The seeds
of Cauliflower, Cabbage, and Lettuce, should be sown this
month, from the 10th to the 20th, for the purpose of be-
ing pricked out in cold frames to be wintered over; it is
very important that the sowing should be done as near
these dates as possible, for if sown much before the 10th,
the plants may run up to seed when planted out in spring,
if much later than the 20th, they would be too weak to
be wintered over. Shallots and Onions should also be
planted this month, and Spinach and German Greens, or
“Sprouts,” sown to be wintered over, all now for spring use

Ocroser.—This month corresponds in part to June of
the summer months, being that. in which the returns from

Ca

MONTHLY CALENDAR. 271

the second crops come in. Celery, that has been banked
or earthed up, now sells freely and in considerable quanti-
ties; all the crop should this month be “handled,” and
as much as possible earthed up. Cauliflower is always
scarce and dear in the early part of this month, but unless
the fall has been unusually moist, is generally not matured
until towards the end of the month. Thyme, Sage, and
all Sweet Herbs, should now be sold, from the beginning
of the month, cutting out only every alternate row, as it
gives the crop time to grow, so that the remaining rows
spread sufficiently to fill the space. (See article on
Thyme, etc).

The crops planted or sown last month, must now be
carefully hoed, and the weeds removed; for, though
weeds are not quite so numerous in variety as in summer,
Chickweed, now very abundant, is one of the most ex-
pensive weeds of the garden to eradicate.

The plants of Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce, re-
commended to be sown last month, are now fit to be
pricked out in the cold frames. (See detail of the process.)

NovemMBer.—This month warns us that winter is ap-
proaching, and preparations should be carefully made to-
wards securing all products of the garden that are perish-
able by frost. The process of putting away the Celery
crop in trenches for winter use, (see Celery article), should
be begun about the 5th or 10th of the month in dry
weather; that put in trenches then, will be blanched suf
ficiently for use in six or eight weeks, but when sufficient
‘relp can be obtained, it will always pay well to bank or
varth up a large portion of Celery by the spade, clear to
the top; this will keep it safe from injury from any

ee J

272 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

frost that we have in this month, and thus protected, it
need not be put away into winter quarters—the trenches
—before the end of November; put away thus late, it will
keep without the loss of a root until March or April,
when it is always scarce and high in price.

The great difficulty most persons have, is from stowing it
away and covering it up too early ; this practice of earth-
ing it up to the top roughly in November we have only
practiced for the past two seasons, but find the extra labor
well repaid, as we are enabled thus to save this very valu-
able crop without loss. There is rarely need of applying
any covering of leaves or litter to the trenches this
month, and it cannot be too often told that the cov-
ering up of vegetables of all kinds in winter quarters
should be delayed to the very last moment that it is safe
to do so. Beets, Carrots, Cabbages, and Cauliflowers,
must be dug up, and secured this month in the manner re-
commended in “Preserving Vegetables in Winter.”
Horseradish, Salsify, and Parsnips, being entirely hardy,
and frost proof, need not necessarily be dug, although
from the danger of their being frozen in the ground next
month, if time will permit, the work had better be prog-
ressing.

All clear ground should be dug or plowed, and properly
leveled, so that on the opening of spring operations can
be begun with as little delay as possible. If draining is
required, this is the most convenient time to do it, the
ground being clear, and not yet much frozen.

Towards the end of the month, the sashes should be put
on the Cabbage and Lettuce plants in cold nights, but on

MONTHLY CALENDAR. 273

no account should they be kept on in day time, as it is of
the utmost importance that they be not made tender at
this time by being “drawn” under the sashes. I may
again repeat that these plants are half hardy, and it is
killing them with kindness to protect them from slight
freezing. Cabbage and Lettuce plants may be exposed
in any place without glass, or other protection, where the
thermometer runs no lower than 10 above zero. Rhubarb
and Asparagus beds will be benefited by a covering of 4
or 6 inches of rough manure, or any other litter, to pre-
vent the severity of the frost; the crop from beds, thus
covered, will come in a few days earlier, and will be
stronger than if left unprotected.

December. — Occasionally, we have the ground open

so that digging and plowing can be done to nearly the end
of the month, but it is not safe to calculate much after the
first week; though by covering up the roots, still undug,
with their own leaves or with litter, we are often enabled
to dig our Horseradish or Parsnips very late in the month,
and like all other vegetables, the later they remain in the
soil they grow in, the finer is the quality.
_ Celery trenches should receive the first covering, early
in the month, if the weather has been such that it has been
unnecessary before; the covering should not be less than
4 or 5 inches of litter or leaves, only taking care that the
material is light, weight or closeness would prevent evap-
oration too much at this season, while the weather is not
yet severe; the final covering should not be later than the
end of the month.

The crops of Spinach, Kale, Onions, Shallots, etc., that
have been planted or sown in September, should be cov-

274 GARDENING FOR PROFIT.

ered up with hay or straw if their position is much expos-
ed; if not, there is no particular necessity. When all has

been secured safely in winter quarters, attention must be
| energetically turned to procuring manure, muck, and all
available kinds of fertilizers; there is little danger of
spending too much in this way if you have it to spend—
depend upon it, there is no better investment if you are
working your Garden for Profit.

END Bex,

PPLICHORG, GIOE. .. 0.0. cusccccevens 116
nde Jerusalem............-- 117
IRE Reb worn dle as Stwassiclste'de s 107
155 1 Te ee Eeterahete ys neat averse 119
MMS RNE rtd Settee ta tte Monte oss sak a's ailarace 118
Bean, Bush or Snap.. .............119
oc hunnine or Pole. .::.:...scs: 122
eee fete ta caller fale crocs cama aks 124
BereeelOs £075 Ae tee 32. ass aoe 129
Broccon..- 2)... 2 Ee erarogetate, x atatetereis 131
Brussels Sprouts............. ie se 133
Cabbages, Club Rootin............ 100
apbroe, Marlys: .. csccce cl cce ce ae 137
es Dates ssieoscss acetic .145

hd Turnip-rooted........... 186
CATED eon cee arsreisaicl detecinccsie sees 148
@anliflower.....56625 5600520560355. 134
Capital Required in Gardening..... 14
RAPIST EIN. oe Nera eraiatelrn om yanicle alesis 6 224
NOPEEC GOING tera fo cresniote otelocrareyoreraisinic seine 148
MUPRETIAC Sn ois ccc as eis Coe Ho eens eer 164
NIM CE tea ack > cigen a/c «laren 151
“* Preserving in Winter......... 157
poe MCHAD-TOOLEU ss. . s/o cies cna ciuee'e 164
ALG 00s CT 127
Gheryil, Turnip-rooted.............. 151
MIMO SE eco Scie ccieeesexee c= eesele see 165
Wold-Hrames: (255.55 n00neus se once oe 49
WGOIGWOPbee ye ass aes esc toscot sees 168
Wollardseee nc! sess ccccousiet abe 168
ME ODEE Crs Sed oe As azcrcrorethateeNotclale ae 169
RGAE OAC oe sreiehc oc crstarar ch ateboloraioversete 165
MO MGRS yaoi’) Fein ate srolattatarn seat cratttarsreis 165
ress, Water: -.2c.<csencooe SRE RBABOE 166
Crops aVOLAMON: Of.a5. ssc ce ce ee 86
CnrecumBeTs:. cic os cen Secs eee Ye.
IRON ok slack oo alone aio ena s Sees 29
ee EGA D fo oates etcnca te siata'a'si gic vin’ ot 176
MMIVE oA soritaletecincns saec ates oes 179
PCPCUIZOIN geaa yess Ao en's scone 5 ss), 36
BEDOUIS: rt ae ire er cale a oe aiele 8 165
emer st UGE ia, of at is se aon ow oe « 63
Freezing and Thawing............. 53

2795

Frost, Protection from............. 60

Garlies 2: oo sii kun etaea Se secce nda ae 181
Green-honses exon ss eee 63
+ SS Beaks): J. ee ss 70

Bn “S<~ Wateritia7Jis cai 66
Greens, German:...2'5.2.265- sc ecees 129
Ground, Preparation of............. 31
Gumbo. -nirestwneas oss ae ee 208
Herbs Sweetsmsc. tees 3k sre ace 208
PIOL- Beg erg 722 Yacce'slc Sais os same 55
ae eh eon? WALCTINE,, 5 5 w2 08 astieeate 58
Horseradish....... ila set hel ce beeen 181
LLC fs) {eo ee Re MAA 99
‘\ Asparacus Beetle.... .... betes hss

‘* Cabbage Caterpillar.......... 103
Implements: <. 7.22 <<jsn . cuca 39
és Clod-Crnsher........... 44

as Cultivator......... Ree

. Dibbers.5Ae ce sesce 47

v3 Digging Fork.......... 41

ss MATNOW si sieiecca oes 40

sc Marker, Double........ 45

* Garden Roller.......... 45

* Plow, Cylinder........ 89

$2 “* . Skeletons)... 22. 42

ss Soe OH DAOl asa a oe 40

a Pronged Moe 3.2 eee 43

« Scomleveliae.e! - case 44

6 Seed Drills 3/5235 9see 47

ut Shutierswen. vce steset 60

af BDACG sess (ssiveaseen 41

ee pieelstakes. 22.720 sab a 43

e DirtwieMatse sees oe 61

es Waterine: Pote: 232.3. 3: 58

RA OF creepers en sinter ae tite oeeas 129
FO WMIRA Dili ats eicterafeeess oer sce ninte ae 186
Wein eter ce oar ee eee ook 187
MBCLUUCC Eee tee Oke ae a eotne 188
ride BOTCIRES p30 5S 025 2 3 <'a's'n gs er 67
Marjoram, Sweet. 2s. 2.2 .2....s. 195-258
WPATITITE Stet ese cis oe esucacieewenon ee 34
Market Garden, Location........... 24
oe ce Situation .......... pa)

276

Market Garden, Laying Ont........ 5 Seeds, Purity of......

Market Gardens, London........... 21
WARD EVV MOON | ave cjeicreisistc clcicfewiesisre’s . 46
PNP SEUV EIR sicin's a's svciaiviereictels iseietcie ciclelorrts ;.201
SEL awk cians 5 cota wets ate os mieten nia. is 196
Sf eWWRREL Roc eies coe es nace ties 198
Men, Number Required per Acre... 16
AMT craps csatete ts ieieiiereicte suisictnie Seats ...200
Mushroom............ eeidictstaiele tale slele 202
TELE Tl Soa baBan oocdide abods ampere 202
ORE VATU hee ARABS Cnt cor arco 208
New Zealand Spinach............-. 244
ORR io ions cs eee eee 5 coos ee
OniON 28/5, )5e s csele es Acie sae bs Sse 210
BRERA. obs Sige wakinaawer Teacaiclaeis 211

SS MP ERIOD coo wen ge ose Peet s Gael oe 21%

SO LOD et fatesctaloials sims ete taniatele = its 217
WOraene eats vacate Maxeieaelaveielateiserietecieys 244
yvateriblantin ssc cee eisdsiserdiee «cass 236
, ag OP ACK cig bales, jas tae towe 237
ef h | Cee EES A Sete neceene 217
IPATADIDS ha, cmsenittion ssc naeleciosios 219
PPCAS 2 sacle uidie sissies aalste Oetaes ewes Q21
PENNER cer akg bet vine oe Mesos 224
RON DOKPEBHS. <cicistpificicn odacekeine so Soles 165
Plants, Cabbage and Cauliflower... 59
o> Number'to! Acre ie s)o 625 it. 89

Ser Well LOtalO:) “ol. .s..ccees 59

Se eT OMALOMs CLC sicjelea cress Societe. 58
Potato, cpccicans seule sci aioe ats seer 225
BS RS WVEGU Ne aicic ars clake Obie ale, o\sloipis Siolace 24%
Profits of Market Gardening........ 1S
PRP PIGED, ryan einen oot eee asters oe 229
MAGIBM SS «0. sles cae tab Saw's s cRee ie 229
SSR ED GES wate Sc ature anes ee taetc eR 231
RRAUDALI ee coisas. cecteni eee aemeres 232
tf oe MOLOINE., onae ecanraisioicbeete ee 234
IATGA, USRDE ns his a Wels Users wep 257
APC ee arclacialeels a/a/aia. Sacer ccna atice 258
Dalam vPAatCnes <a /cnb actge ce eects 190
ORIEN yaa inlel acess ale hak m eeiaeeiee 236
an DEMIS Gish e's dshetale win’s)s ee eeets 237
PICIEAQUOLAL. 5 6 ailels axle ris. fe sine sieie ee 237
RICHIEALC. eimas decile Naieccwctenisce\sote, coca 233
CEC MeP TINEA) Ole vais cite ctticyoicisceieieis. ele rus

‘* Germinating Temperature... 83
_“ Lawsuit about............

LBD 09

INDEX.

eee ¢€00 e@620068 3

Quantity per Acre........... 87

AS” RROROTNEE Tsocanos anaeecseae . 74

So TBOUROR , secsccnaneten emo 83

‘“* Sownin Hot-Beds........... 85

of Raves OL isc nsec awe eee 88-89

Se ” Wisely lew 2.2. os necne ete AG

ss OWinhen to. S0wee.-.- cesta etme
Ghallote 3.3. ss..cccccemeness eae i uieeee 240
Soils). \e5o ca cas coselieean Gewaiceeta sone
Sorrelicc.-cte eS ennicins oases oe wees 240
Spinach xo. cs seaseees seas Soasws 241
s UNew Zealand)3.. =20-eeee 244
Sorouts 5... sc. ven esate g epee 129
Sanashs vs cece aceutoceoeene 244
#6 ASUMIINGE: occ cecen oaceee pee 246

BOS = Winters. Y ocs ceed cineca epee 246
Summer. Sayory.....0.. o-c-c- ee eee 258
Swedes Turnip... -. <<. sscae08 crests 257
Sweet Corn......... 1 eee daneee 169
SweebibHerhs) 55s eeceaietwonecoeee 258
Sweet Marjoram............i.. 195-258
Sweet Potatosn 25 55-6.2- csceees eee 247
Swiss Chard. soe cle cesses eee 127
PERV MIG sc avcdesavece we ivercs eee eee 258
Tomato 1325. as oe eee 249
Transplanting. ...ic.scsnca ps ease 90
ERE oe cee oS apanteke ene siete e ROD
Se US WECISH oc ).\o5- Santon Pay ¢
Vegetable House .................. 25
Vegetable Plants, Planting......... 91
Vegetables, Packing for Shipping.. 94
LG Preservation in Winter 96
Watermelon: do;bavcs eee 198
MontTHLY CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS.
PANOSTV, sac csies MARS isscisticec: 261
RGEREQSTY 0, cn ce vas Cos e 08, cee 263
NESTOR. ova canacicecceus Recen eee ee 264
SATAY hs slave pero sae eve nsuuae Suneicawee 265
MAY ss nae es rr sist Se Rise ooacite Meee 266
DUNG) e ee aig iisia sale startenaerintti ile ote 267
rj b Ane aibinisiaionie ¢ eialnemetrieaehaere nee 268
August... .. ates esis ve ek ice Veae cameos
September .... ccs sieinre ste cee eat 269
October.c..s. Sinaawa cle eg cee eee 270
PIGVOIEDGE «deus thee saseceane ey (i

December...... guctweceues eanewcme i

a 4 + ( ig we
Sore tN eae

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