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GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH;

OR THE

KITCHEN AND FRUIT GARDEN:

WITH THE

Best Wlethods for their Cultivation,

HINTS UPON LANDSCAPE AND FLOWER GARDENING.

CONTAINING
‘

MODES OF CULTURE, AND DESCRIPTIONS OF THE SPECIES AND VARIETIES OF
THE CULINARY VEGETABLES ; FRUIT TREES AND FRUITS; AND A
SELECT LIST OF ORNAMENTAL TREES AND PLANTS, FOUND
BY TRIAL ADAPTED TO THE STATES OF THE UNION
SOUTH OF PENNSYLVANIA; WITH GARDEN-

ING CALENDARS FOR THE SAME,

: BY WILLIAM N. WHITE.

OF ATHENS, GA. H}

“In the home around which we see a well-kept garden, internal order almost
always prevails ; and when there is a flower-stand outside, there is almost always
a book-shelf within.’’—Scsouw’s EHarto, PLANTS, AND Man.

New York:
A. O. MOORE & OCO.,

AGRICULTURAL BOOK PUBLISHERS, 140 FULTON STREET,
1859.

C. M. SAXTON & COMPANY.

In the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States, i in an
y Southern Distiét of New York, 2

Ponce FA Cr.

{ wave thought that, upon a subject so accordant with my tastes
as is Horticulture, I might prepare a work adapted to our climate
and useful to the public. The repeated inquiries made of me, as a
Bookseller, for a practical treatise on the subject, and these in-
quiries growing more frequent with the manifest growth of the
gardening spirit among us, led to the undertaking. Yet, written,
as it has been, in the intervals of trade and subjected to its constant
interruptions—now advancing but a line at once, again a page or
an article—suspended totally for nearly two years, then hastily,
finished, looked over, and printed under circumstances that ren-
dered the author’s revision of the proof impossible—many defects
of style, and errers of the press, are manifest. These, if the work
contain the information sought, practical men will readily éxcuse
in a first edition. —

To claim much originality in a modern work on Gardening,
would display in its author great ignorance or great presumption.
Tf it did not contain much that is found in other horticultural
works, it would be very defective. Gardening is as old as Adam,
and what we know to-day of its principles and. operations has bees
accumulated, little by littlek—the result of thousands of experi-
ments and centuries of observation and practice. Hence, from the
gardening literature of our language, has been selected, for this
work, those modes of culture which considerable experience gnd

lV PREFACE.

observation has proved adapted to our climate. The species and
varieties of plants found here most desirable for use or ornament,
have been selected and described. This mass of material has been
modified and increased by pretty copious garden-notes of my own.

Still, it has been my object to make a useful and reliable, rather

than an original work.

Where an author's language suited my “purpose, it was at once
incorporated into the text. If the expression is sometimes changed,
it is generally to make it more concise. To save repeated acknow-
ledgments and quotation-marks in the text, a list is appended of the
authors which occur to me from whom assistance has been derived.
The names of those to whom I am most indebted have a star pre-
fixed.

It was first intended merely to modify an English work—G. W.
Johnson’s “ Kitchen Gardening’—and adapt it to our own cli-
mate. Hence, his arrangement of articles in the alphabetical order
of their genera is:adhered to. Plants similar in nature are thus
grouped together, and some repetition is avoided. But that work
not proving so available as expected, and botanical names being
still in a state of change,* not many articles were prepared before
[ regretted not having followed the common method, which is cer-
tainly more convenient for reference to all except botanists. But
as the index renders it easy to find any plant by its common name,
the arrangement of the articles was of too little importance to be
changed at that period.

The necessity of a Southern work on Gardening is felt by every
Horticulturist in our midst. Our seasons differ from those of the
Northern States, in heat and dryness, as much as the latter do
from those of England. ‘Treatises perfectly adapted to their cli-
mate we are obliged to follow very cautiously. Hnglish works
require the exercise of a still greater degree of judgment in the
reader, the climate of England being still more cool and humid.
Again, our mild winters admit of garden-work nearly every day of
the year. All the heavy operations of trenching, manuring, laying
out, pruning, and planting trees, shrubs, and hardy ornamental
plants, are at that season most conveniently performed.

* Chervil, for instance, is now Cherophylum sativum,

PREFACE. V

In this particuiar aspect, our climate is much like that of the
south of England. Hence, while the calendars of operations, in
works prepared for the Northern States, seldom agree with our
practice, those in English works are often found to coincide with it.
But even where the time of performing certain operations is the
same in both countries, the long, dry summers, and still milder win-
ters, of this climate, often render necessary a peculiar mode of per-
forming the same.

We need, then, works upon Gardening specially adapted to our
latitude and wants. But, with the exception of the valuable mat-
ter scattered through our Agricultural and Horticultaral periodi-
cals, Holmes’ “ Southern Farmer and Market Gardener,” written
some years since, and briefly treating of the kitchen garden depart-
ment merely, is the only work containing anything reliable on the
subject.

The chief original features, then, of this work, are, that it endea-
yors to give more or less information upon the whole subject of
Gardening ; and information, too, that is practically adapted to
our climate, habits and requirements. In the fruit-garden depart-
ment, especially, a good deal of new matter is to be found. Through-
out the entire work, processes are frequently described, and methods
of culture given, which are suited only to climates and seasons like
our own. Those varieties of plants and trees are pointed out which
experience has proved are least adapted to our orchards and gar-
dens. Analyses of the most important vegetables and fruit-trees
are supplied, both to gratify a rational curiosity and to assist those
who wish to experiment in special manures—which should be very
cautiously ventured upon in the present state of our knowledge.
Unusual prominence is also given to the general subject of manures,
as they are the foundation, not only of successful gardening, but of
profitable husbandry. The hints on Landscape-gardening have
been gathered, with great care, from the works of Downing, Lou-
den, Smith and others, and modified to suit our climate. In the
Flower-garden department, few varieties of plants are noticed that
have not grown under my own eye, and none that Ido not know
are really fine. Besides the various works consulted, the experi-
ence of horticultural friends has been freely communicated. Valu-
able hints have been derived from Rev. Mr. Johnson and Mir

vl PREFACE.

Thourmond, of Atlanta, Prof. J. P. Waddel, Dr. M. A. Ward and
Dr. James Camak, of Athens, Rt. Rev. Bishop Elliott, of Savan-
nah, Dr. J. O. Jenkyns and Mr. Affleck, of Mississippi; and espe-
cially from J. Van Buren, Esq.,* of Clarksville, Geo., whose suc-
cessful efforts to make known and diffuse native southern varieties
of the apple rendered him a public benefactor. It is hoped we
shall yet see a work upon fruit-trees from his pen.

If this treatise, with all its imperfections, shall in any cae in-
crease the love of Gardening among us; if it shall cause orchards
to flourish, shade-trees to embower, and flowers to spring up around
any Southern home, the author’s purpose is accomplished.

* By an oversight, my own descriptions of the Batchelor, Maverick’s Sweet,
Nickajack, Berry, Disharoon, Catooga, Comack’s Sweet and Neverfail Apples, for
which Mr. Van Buren furnished the specimens of fruit, are placed among the vari-
eties described by him.

LIST OF BOOKS AND AUTHORS

FROM WHOM MATERIAL HAS BEEN DERIVED FOR THIS WORK

ArrLEecK, THOS.,
Auten, A. B.,

*BarRry, P.,
66 66

Bovuss1nGattt, J. B., .
Buresss, H.,

RRO dal ca a
BripeEMay, T.,
*Browne, D. Jay .

66 66

Bon JARDINIER,

*Boist, R., . “
66 6G

QGoBBET, W., . C
*Cotz, 8. W.,
Country GENTLEMAN, .
CULTIVATOR, . .
ss SourTHERN,
Dana, §. L.,
*Downtine, A. J., .

Downine, CHARLES,
*Euiott, F. 'R.,
FLorist, . -

GARDENER’S CHRONICLE, .

GENESSEE FARMER,
Geirritn, R. E.,
Hotmgs, F. 8.,
Harris, T. W., .
Hoarr, CLEMENT,
*HORTICULTURIST,
Hovey, ©. M., :
JOHNSTON, J. F. W., .
Jounson, C. W.,,

Piece G. W., ‘
Kemp, E., ; - é
Kenrick, W.,

Karn, G. M.,

Ler, Prof. D.,

Southern Rural Almanac
American Agriculturist.

Fruit Garden.

Horticulturist,

Rural Economy. “

Amateur Gardener’s Calendar.
Book of Flowers.

Young Gardener’s Assistant.
Field Book of Manures.
Patent Office Report, 1854.

Family Kitchen Gardener.

Rose Manual.

American Flower Gardener’s Director.

American Gardener.

American Fruit Book.

L. Tucker & Son, Albany, N. Y.
6 66 66 66

Augusta, Geo., D. Lee and D. Redmond, Editora.

Muck Manual.

Fruits and Fruit Trees of America.

Cottage Residences.

Landseape Gardening,

Horticulturist.

Articles in Horticulturist and Correspondence.

American Fruit Grower's Guide.

H. C. Hanson, Philadelphia.

Prof. J. Lindsey, London, Eng.

J. Vick, Rochester, N. Y.

Medical Botany.

Farmer and Market Gardener.

On Insects injurious to Vegetation.

On the Grape-Vine.

J. J. Smith, Philadelphia.

Magazine of Horticulture, Boston, Mass.

Agricultural Chemistry.

Treatise on Manures.,

Kitchen Garden,

How to lay out a small Garden.

New American Orchardist.

Practical Landscape Gardener.

Genesee Farmer, Southern Cultivator, and Patent

Office Reports,

Vill LIST OF
LInDLey, Gan

st JOHN, .
tf “c

114 6

Lizsic, J.,
* “ & Kopp,
*Loupnn, J. C.,

Big OS Se IMTS este
*MApES, J. J.,
Mrenan, Tuxos.,
*MicHavx, F. A.,
Nasu, J. A, .
Nema, D1:
Norton, J. P.,
Norra, T.,
Parvesr, R. G.,
PAGE Ws

ec “
Parsons, 8. B., .
*Prapopy, ©. A., .
Rivers, THOMAS,

a 6 “
*SonENOK, P. A.,
Strockwarpt’s, J. A.,
Smirn, C. H. J.,
Som or THs Souts,
*SOUTHERN AGRICULTURIST,
THomaAs, J. Jd.,
THompson, W., .
Warine, G. E.,
Warver, Dr. J. A. .

BOOKS AND AUTHORS.

Guide to the Orchard.
Gardener’s Chronicle.
Theory of Horticulture.
Vegetable Kingéom.
Agricultural Chemistry.
Progress of Chemistry.
Encyclopedia of Gardening.

ae oP lants.
Suburban Gardener snd Villa Companion.
Magazine.

Ladies’ Companion to the Flower Garden.
Working Farmer, New York City.
Hand-Book of Ornamental Trees _
North American Sylva. +
Progressive Farmer.

Fruit, Flower, and Kitchen Garden.
Scientific Agriculture.

North American Sylva continued.

On the Strawberry.

Hand-Boek of Villa Gardening.

Rose Garden and Supplement.

On the Rose.

On the Soil of the South.

Rose Amateur’s Guide.

Miniature Fruit Garden.

Kitchon Gardener's Directory.

Chemical Field Lectures.

Landscape Gardening.

Columbus, Ga., J. M. Chambers and C. A. Peabody
Laurensyille, 8. Carolina, A. G. & Wm. Summer.
American Fruit Culturist.

Gardener's Book of Annuals.

Elements of Agriculture.

Western Horticultural Review.

ADVERTISEMENT.

Ir has been found impossible to complete the entire treatise in time for the work

of the present season. Hence, it is thought best not to delay the publication of
what is already prepared, as some persons may desire to purchase the Kitchen and
Fruit Garden only. Little new work can be laid out in the Flower Garden until
autumn, by which time will be issued, separately, the remainder of the work, con-
taining the hints on Landscape and Flower Gardening, with the Calendars, and
perhaps brief notes on a few of the most promising Fruits that come into bearing
with us this summer, thus considerably increasing the usefulness of the entire
work, and enabling those who wish to procure either part by itself.
Marca, 1856.

EN PRODUCTION.

GARDENING was man’s first occupation. It has num-
bered among its votaries the wisest and best of our race,
and has been deemed in all ages a delightful employment.
But to yield pleasure or profit it must be prosecuted un-
derstandingly. He who desires in full the enjoyments
and advantages of a garden, must be qualified to take
charge of it himself; must thoroughly understand the
principles and manipulations of horticulture; must know
the qualities and requirements of his soil, and what may
be most satisfactorily produced from it in his peculiar
climate ; in short, he should in all cases be capable of su-
perintending and directing advisedly its operations, really
knowing when they are well or ill done.

It is difficult to acquire this knowledge by reading or
simply looking on. It is easiest and most pleasantly gained
with implement in hand and a note-book in the pocket.
The readier way of understanding the directions of the
books, is to put them in practice. He who thus heartily
enters into the performance of horticultural operations,
will be fully rewarded by our good old mother earth in
eakh. profit,and pleasure In health, for not only does
the garden yield a choice and wholesome variety of fruits

and vegetables. most salutary for daily food, but the ex-
1* i

10 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

ercise afforded in moving the fresh soil, and the interest
excited by the diversified operations of the garden, are
still more salutary. In profit—but of that hereafter. In
pleasure—for what is more delightful than to watch the
daily developments of that which our own hands have
planted, cultivated, and sheltered—or ‘to witness, as the
skillful gardener will do, the constantly improving condi
tion of his soil, or to partake of the daily succession of
choice vegetables and luscious fruits brought to perfection
by his skill and care, or to enjoy the more spiritual and
refined pleasures of landscape and flower-gardening where
the eye is charmed with the greennessand breadth of lawns 3
grouped with all rare and magnificent trees, or with par-
terres gay with brilliant colors and profuse with beautiful
and perfect forms. But those who possess a taste for gar-
dening need no display of inducements to attract them to
their favorite haunts. )

They will not seek in these pages for arguments in
favor of gardening, but for suggestions and instructions as

to the best methods of performing its operations.
*»

Gardening for the South.

FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF
GARDENS IN GENERAL.

SITUATION.—With us, gardening in all its departments
is generally deemed the peculiar province of the ladies,
and we cannot regret that it has fallen into their hands.
Had Mr. Downing lived at the South, he would never
have asked “ What is the reason American ladies do not
love to work in their gardens?’ Hence the usual direc-
tion that the gardens should be formed near the house, |
becomes with us doubly important. The situation of the
flower-garden and lawn should be immediately adjacent
to the dwelling, in order to yield the highest degree of
pleasure. The most satisfactory arrangement is to form
the lawn directly in front,'and the flower-garden on the
side, sufficiently near to be overlooked by the drawing-
room windows, while the sides of the dwelling, in part, and
its entire rear, including the kitchen and servants’ yard,
are sheltered and concealed by trees. A dwelling thus
embayed in well-grown trees is always regarded with
pleasure. As neither the fruit or kitchen garden, espe-
cially the latter, can be considered ornamental, they should
not, though near the dwelling, be placed obtrusively in
view. Near they should be, as if either is distant, time is

1 ; GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

lost m watching its progress; it is in danger of being ne-
glected; and even if this is not the case, its choicest pro-
ducts may gratify the palate of any one besides its owner.
A good arrangement is to place them in immediate con-
nection with the pleasure-ground, proceeding from the
shrubbery to the fruit department, and thence to the
kitchen-garden. The latter should be near the stables, in
order that it may be copiously replenished with manure
without too great expenditure of labor. ; }

Much, however, depends upon the soil. The best at
command, in the vicinity of the dwelling, should be chosen.
Proximity to water is also highly important, especially if
it can be readily employed for irrigation. Low situations
are more endangered by late and early frosts, but their
abundant moisture renders them desirable for summer
crops. A diversity of soils and exposures in the same in-
closure is desirable.

Care should be taken that the pfoductiveness of the garden
be not diminished by the proximity of large trees, which
are injurious by their drip to all plants beneath them, and
by their shade and extended roots to those more remote.
The small fibrous roots of trees extend far beyond their
branches, and one is not safe from these devourers much
short of the length of the stem which they nourish. If
trees exist too valuable to be removed, dig a deep trench
near them,-and cut off all roots that extend into it. This
will probably relieve the adjacent crops from their inju-
rious effects. ‘

Aspect AND INcLiNation.—A slight exposure to the
south and east is generally recommended. All good
eardenerstake pride in having early crops, and this com-
pensates in some measure for their short duration in such
an exposure. A north-eastern aspect is to be avoided. as

ASPECT. 13

our worst storms are from that direction. A north-west-
ern exposure, though cold and late, is less liable to injury
from late and early frosts, as vegetation in such situations
-is sheltered somewhat from the rising sun, and does not
suffer so much if it becomes slightly frozen. It is not the
frost that injures plants so much as the direct heat of the
sun falling upon the frozen leaves and blossoms.

. Cabbage, cauliflower, strawberries, spinach, lettuce, and
other salads, are much more easily brought to perfection
in a northern aspect. Many of these run up to seed im-
mediately if exposed to the full sun. The soil, too, is
usually richer, and will retain its fertility longer, other
things being equal, in a northern exposure. It is a great
advantage, if the garden slope at all, to have it slope in
more than one direction, giving a choice of exposure, and
generally also of soil, as it is thus adapted to both late
and early crops. But when the drainage is good, a level
is to be preferred, as by the aid of the fences any desired
exposure can be obtained for particular plants. Indeed in
this climate nothing is more to be regarded than the in-
clination of the soil. Whatever be the situation or aspect,
a garden must be as level as possible. Any considerable
inclination in this latitude subjects the richest portion of
the soil to the danger of being washed away by our
violent storms. In the rich mellow soil of a garden culti-
vated as it should be, if there be any perceptible slope, a
single storm will cause a loss of manure and labor that
will require considerable expense to repair. If the ground
is not level at first, it will be economy to throw it at once
into terraces of convenient breadth. The steeps of these
can be clothed with blue grass or strawberry plants, to
prevent them from washing.

Sizu.—A garder should be proportioned to the size of

14 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

the family, and their partiality for its different products.
A small garden with a suitable rotation of crops, and well
manured and cultivated, will yield more pleasure and
profit than an ordinary one of three times its size. An
active industrious hand can take care of an acre, well pro-
vided with hot-beds, cold frames, &c., keeping it in perfect
neatness and condition; or if the plough and cultivator be
brought into requisition, as they should be in large gar-
dens, four times that amount can be under his care.

If but little room can be allowed near the house, cab-
bages, carrots, turnips, potatoes, and the common crops
can be grown in the field, if well enriched and cul-
tivated solely with the plough. The fruit garden should
be in a separate compartment, as the shade of the trees is
very injurious, and the exhaustion of the soil by their
roots still more so. Dwarf pears upon the quince stock
are the least injurious, and may be admitted into the
vegetable department.

Form.—The form will often depend upon the situation
of the garden or inclination of the ground. When a
matter of choice, a square or parallelogram is most con-
venient for laying out the walks and, beds. A parallelo
pram extending from east to west gives a long south wall
for shading plants in summer, and a long sheltered border
for forwarding early crops. In plantation gardening an
oblong shape has the further advantage of giving longer
rows for the plough.

LayIne ouT.—In laying out,a broad walk wide enough
to admit a cart for manuring the plants, should run through
the centre from end to end, until you nearly reach the
border. Here may be a turning-place around an arbor or
tool-house. A border, eight to twelve feet wide, shoutd

FENCING. 15

extend all around, next the boundary, and next this should
be a walk, also’ entirely around, three or four feet wide.
If cultivated with the plough, this division into the borders,
and two large plats, will be sufficient, but the borders
should then be, at least twelve feet wide, to give room
enough for those vegetables that will not admit cultiva-
tion with this implement.

' The other vegetables may be successfully cultivated in
these two plats, in long rows. Where the spade and hoe
are used, these oblong plats may be subdivided for con-
venience into smaller plats, by walks three feet wide, ex-
tending from the borders to the main walk, and a portion
of these should be laid out each year by very narrow
alleys into beds, four feet wide, for onions, beets, carrots,
_&e. The earth should be dug out of the main walks, four
inches deep, and spread evenly on each side over the
adjacent ground. ‘The walks may be filled with gravel,
so as to be dry and comfortable, or fresh tan, if accessible,
will answer very well,-and will keep out the weeds for
two years, when it should be used as a dressing for the
strawberry beds, and its place filled with a fresh supply.
No more walks or alleys should be made than are required
for convenience in gardening operations, and where it is
not desirable to admit a cart, the main walk need not be
over five or six feet wide. .

Fencine.—The objects of fencing are to procure shel-
ter for delicate plants from cold winds, also shade for
those that require it, and, above all, to keep out of the
garden intruders of all kinds, that the owner may enjoy
its fruits without molestation. A high close board fence,
or a stone or brick wall, answers a tolerable purpose ; but
the only thing to be rélied on is a living hedge. The
Osage Orange, Pyracanth, Cherokee, and single White

16 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Macartney roses are all good for this purpcse. Osage
Orange plants may be raised from seed, or bought at the
nurseries for fiye or six dollars per thousand. The Pyra-
‘canth, or evergreen thorn, we have Mr. Affleck’s authority
for stating, will make a hedge as effectual as the Osage
Orange, and, as it is an evergreen, is much the most desir-
able. The blossoms in Spring are very showy, and it is
covered in Winter with bright scarlet berries, and hence
it is often called the burning bush. It grows freely from
cuttings in sandy soil, but these cuttings should remain
in the nursery-bed a year to become well rooted before
use. Mr. Nelson gives the following directions for plant-
ing and trimming a hedge, which apply equally well to
Osage Orange and Pyracanth:

“ PLANTING.—First dig a trench where the hedge is
intended to be grown, two spades deep, throwing the sur-
face to one, and the subsoil to another side; then throw
the surface soil down on the bottom of the trench, and if
it,is very poor, add a little manure, or good surface earth,
or even dry oak leaves. Autumn is by far the best time
for transplanting, and can safely be done as soon as the
leaves are dropped. Cut down the plants to within four
inches above the roots before planting. Several authors
recommend planting in double rows, but according to my
experience in the management of hedges, (and I have
had a good deal in my life), I decidedly prefer single
rows. Assort the plants in two parcels, those of large
and those of small size, and-lay the smaller ones aside for
the richest ground. Stretch the line firmly, and place the
plants in as straight a line as possible, one foot apart ; fill
up the trench with earth, leaving about two inches above
ground; press the earth not too firmly, but water plenti-
fully, and after that, level the whole nicely.”

HEDGES. KF

« TRIMMING.—It is perfectly useless to plant a hedge
and leave it to be killed by weeds, or grow without trim-
ming. A young hedge will require the same amount of
labor as arow of Indian corn. The plants having been cut
so much down, will, of course, start vigorously the ensuing
Spring. A good hedge ought never to be trimmed in
any other than in #conical shape. When trimmed in a
conical shape, every shoot will enjoy the full benefit of air,
hight, and moisture, and by this simple and natural me-
thod, a hedge can be shorn into a strong wall of verdure,
so green and close from bottom to top, that even a sparrow
cannot, without difficulty, pass through it. In order to
make a hedge so thick and impervious as above men-
tioned, it is necessary to go to work even in the first sum-
mer, with a pair of hedge shears, pruning the young
growth, when about three months old, at the same time
laying down some of the most vigorous shoots to fill up
some vacant places near the ground; these shoots may be
fastened to the ground with some hooked pegs; they may
be considered as layers, will soon send up a number of
sprouts, and make the hedge impenetrable for pigs, and
nearly for rabbits. The young twigs may be trimmed in
a wedge shape, not more than one foot high, and at the
base, six inches broad. The next season the hedge may
be allowed to grow one foot higher, and three or four
inches wider at the base. Thus the management must be
continued until the hedge has attained the intended hight,
allowing an addition of four inches broader at the bottom,
for every foot more in hight. A hedge, regularly trim-
med twice a year, will, with the exception of the first
years, when it requires a little more care than afterward
continue impenetrable for fifty or even ‘one hundred
years.” ‘

The Cherokee rose, by planting the cuttings by the

18 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

side of a plank or wire fence, two feet apart, will grow up
and cover it in a short time, and effectually repel man and
beast; but it requires constant shortening in, or it is apt
to die out at the bottom, and become unsightly, and is in
all respects much inferior to the single white Macartney.

This is also an evergreen, and very easily grown from
cuttings. It is very thorny, and of beautiful foliage. It
never dies out at the bottom, whether pruned or not, and
is very hardy, and of luxuriant growth. The most satis-
factory fence can be made with this, by setting good chest
nut or cedar posts, eight feet apart, with their small ends
charred, and planted about two and a lralf or three feet in
the ground. Upon this, form the usual paling fence, or
nail a good wide bottom board, and finish the fence with
stout wire, strained through holes in the posts. ‘The wire
fence may be four feet high. ‘The roses should be rooted
cuttings, and may be planted at first, even eight feet apart,
and by layering and training the bottom shoots, if the
ground is kept in good order, in three years it will repel
every intruder. It is better where plants are abundant,
to set them out four feet apart. This hedge requires less
pruning than any other to keep it impenetrable. The
holly would also make an efficient and beautiful hedge,
were it not so difficult to transplant. My own hedge of
Macartney rose, where three years old, trained on a com- —
mon fence of rails and paling, forms a barrier perfectly
secure, and very ornamental.

~ Soim..—In our fine climate, the character of the soil is
of much more importance than situation or aspect. The
mechanical texture is especially to be regarded, as on this
depends the proper retention of manure and moisture.
There are two grand divisions of soils, heavy and light,
which pass into each other by imperceptible gradations.

¥

SOILS. 19

Heavy soils are those in which clay predominates.
They are difficult to work, and in dry weather often bake
like a brick, and are not permeable to dews or light rains,
but after heavy rains, become so saturated that they are
a long time unfit to work, and the plants often die from
excess of moisture. The crops, too, are full ten days late1
in coming to perfection than in a good sandy loam. Light
soils include those in which sands or gravel are the chief
ingredients. ‘The water that falls upon these soils passes
instantly through them, so that the crops suffer quickly
from drought. In these, vegetation is earlier, but they do
not readily combine with manures, the soluble parts of
which are leached through into the subsoil, or are washed
out by the rains, so that if manure be constantly applied,
they will yield but a moderate crop. Gravels are, in this
respect, from the coarseness of the particles, generally
worse than sands. Sandy soils are better adapted to tap
rooted plants and bulbs, and for striking cuttings of all
kinds, while clays are better fitted for plants with fibrous
roots.

In a garden designed for the cultivation of a variety of
plants, both a light sand and stiff clay are desirable. But
the best soil for general purposes, is a loam of medium
texture, arising from a suitable admixture of the two, as
they reciprocally correct the defects of each other, and
with the addition of organic matter, form a soil suited to
the cultivation of nearly all garden productions. Any soil
with judicious culture, draining, and 1 manures, can be con-
verted into such a loam.

If either of the above soils contain in its composition
a large quantity of lime, it is called a calcareous soil,
and is admirably fitted for the culture of fruit trees and
wheat.

An alluvial soil is that formed by the overflow of streams,

20 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

or the deposition of various matters washed down from the
hills, and has generally a large proportion of vegetable
matter. It is exceedingly well suited for the kitchen
garden, requiring little manuring, and not suffering from -
drought, but is not so well suited for fruit trees, with the
exception of the apple.

A peaty soil consists generally of vegetable mould, in a
state of very slow decomposition, and possesses generally
too much acidity for profitable cultivation, but when dried
and combined with the lime and salt mixture described
hereafter, and composted with animal matter, is a most
valuable addition to all soils.

The depth of a soil is quite as important as its texture.
If not naturally deep, it must be made so by trenching.
Deep soils retain a constant supply of moisture in dry
weather, so that the plants do not suffer; and they do not
become too wet in rainy seasons, as the earth drinks in
and retains the rain below the surface; beside, they are
not so liable to wash away. If equally rich, they furnish
plants with a more abundant pasturage and supply of food
than shallow soils. Especially for all tap-rooted plants, a
deep soil is indispensable. In the preparation of your
garden, see that the ground is dry, deep, and rich. Good
vegetables will not grow in a wet soil. A shallow soil
will not furnish them with a regular supply of moisture,
and the crops growing upon a poor soil never pay for the
labor bestowed upon it.

A good garden soil must be not only of the proper depth’
and texture, but, that vegetation may be healthy, must
contain not only alumina and silex, or, in other words,
clay and sand, in proper proportions, but also the other
inorganic or earthy matters found in plants. These are
carbonate and sulphate of lime, potash, soda, magnesia,
sulphur, phosphorus, oxide of iron, manganese, and chlo-

IMPROVEMENT OF SOIL. 21

rine, all whish, except alumina, exist in plants, and some-
times form ten per cent. of their weight.

If any of these constituents are wanting, the soil is
defective, but it will not be fertile if all of them are pre-
sent, unless there is organic matter in the soil to afford an
abundant supply of ammonia and carbonic acid to the
growing crop.

IMPROVEMENT OF THE SoiL.—A soil may be improved
in texture by the addition of any necessary constituents
for the growth of plants which may be wanting.

The texture of a clayey soil can be rendered more per-
vious by thorough draining, deep trenching, and by the
application of sand, ashes, lime, and unfermented mauure.
So much sand is required to produce any perceptible ef-
fect in improving a heavy clay, that it is the most expen-
sive mode of improvement. Ashes and lime both have
the property of rendering heavy soils lighter and light
soils more tenacious, and. both more productive, especially
for potatoes, turnips, beets, and peas, which delight in cal-
eareous soils. In cold climates, ploughing clay lands
deeply in the fall, and exposing them to the action of the
Winter’s frost, is very beneficial, but in sections where
there is little frost and abundant and heavy rains, it is
worse than useless. Turning under coarse vegetable or
carbonaceous matter, as ‘straw, leaves, pine brush, corn-
stalks, a crop of cow peas, or any other green crop, bog or
leaf mould, decomposed peat, and even tanbark itself, so
deeply beneath the surface as not to interfere with culti-
vation, will by the slow decomposition of these materials
much increase the fertility of a clay soil by improving its
texture.

The frequent working of the soil with the hoe and
spade, admitting the ammonia and fertilizing gases of the

/

22 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

atmosphere is itself very beneficial to clay soils, if done
when the earth is dry. A clay soil is exceedingly injured
if worked wet. A clay soil is so difficult to work, and so
liable to bake into a hard crust after every rain, that it
will well repay where materials for the purpose are at all
convenient to lay out a good deal of time and labor in
improving its mechanical texture.

The éfexture of a sandy soil is much more easily im-
proved than a clay, as the per centage of clay required to
convert any sand into a loam is not very large and can
easily be added. Fortunately too in sandy soils, clay is
generally near at hand, often lying but a few inches be-

neath the surface. A few loads of stiff clay, scattered
/ thinly over the surface in Autumn, are worth more ap

plied to such a soil than any manure, for the clay will

» render--manures permanent in their effect, which else

would leach through without benefit to the crops; the

_ effect of the clay itself is lasting. Lime, as before ob-

served, stiffens the texture of a sandy soil, and gympsum
has the same effect. Ashes are also an excellent and pro-
fitable dressing to such a soil, leached or unleached, but
the best of all applicationsis-a good clay mail. Peat,
vegetable manure, and carbonaceous matters of all kinds,
as refuse charcoal, are good applications to sandy soils, as
they enable them better to retain the fertilizing properties
of the manure applied, if they do not much affect the
texture of the soil. Sandy soils vay often rest upon a

should receive, will often ‘greatly improve its texture.
/ Working such @ soil while wet, and the continual use of

the roller will also render it more tenacious. But clay is

/the great improver, and it is astonishing how small a
' quantity of fine clay will cement a loose sand into a good

~ loam.

IMPROVEMENT OF SOILS. 23

To conclude, in regard to the texture of soils, choose
or make for your garden a loam of medium texture a lit-
tle inclined to sand, and the finer its particles the better.
Clays and sands both become objectionable, as they de-
part from this friable loamy texture, and the first step in
- their improvement is to bring them to this condition. A
medium consistency best agrees with vegetation.

The depth of soil in the garden is as likely to need im-
provement as its texture. A deep soil is necessary that
the roots may penetrate it freely in search of food, and
be able to endure our summer droughts. The roots of a
strawberry have been traced five feet down in a deep rich
soil. The difference in freshness and growth of plants
raised upon trenched soils, and those growing upon soils
prepared in the common manner is remarkable. In lawns,
the color of the grass will indicate very exactly the
greater or less depth of the soil. The depth of soils may
be increased by subsoil ploughing, or trenching.

Subsoil ploughing is much cheaper and answers a very
good purpose when the spot to be prepared is large. A
common turning plough goes first, and ploughs as deep a
furrow as practicable. It is followed by the subsoil plough
in the same furrow, which loosens the soil without turning
it up to the depth of eighteen or twenty inches, unless it
is a stiff clay or gravel.

Trenohing is the mode of improving the depth of the
soil in smaller gardens, and is performed in this manner:
At one end of the plot to be trenched, you dig with the
spade a trench three feet wide, and two feet deep; you
throw the earth out on the side away from the plot to be
trehched. Shovel the bottom clean, and make the sides
perpendicular, leaving a clear open trench the width of
the plot. Open another trench the same width, and put
the surface spadeful of that into the bottom of the former

24 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

trench, and the next spadeful upon that, until opened to
the same depth as the first one. When the plot is entirely
trenched in this way, the last trench will remain open,
which must be filled with the earth thrown out from the
first one, which finishes the work. If the subsoil is poor
and gravelly, it is better to take off the top spadeful, and
loosen up the bottom to,.the required depth, with a pick,
without bringing it to the surface. If the soil requires it,
as it generally will, layers of manure may be added to
those of earth, alternately. If the soil is too sandy, clay
and other amendments must be added; while if too heavy,
woods-earth, leaves, muck, straw, tan-bark, or any other
vegetable refuse can be alternated, putting the coarsest
materials at the bottom. 'T'an-bark, particularly, should
be buried at least six inches below the surface, unless the
ground is to be cropped with strawberries or Irish potatoes,
to which it is advantageous.

Trenching is an expensive operation, costing some thirty
or forty dollars per acre, but “nothing,” says Mr. Barry,
“is so expensive and troublesome, as an ill-prepared soil.”
This process is found to be of great advantage in England,
where there is no lack of moisture, and still more so by the
market gardeners of the Northern States, while in our own
dry, warm climate, it is, as I know by trial, absolutely indis-
pensable. Ground thus prepared is not so liable to wash
away, as it will readily soak up the heaviest rain, if properly
terraced. There is no point of greater importance than this,
Poor ground deeply moved, is better than rich with shallow
tillage, and when the ground has been prepared once in this

anner, it will feel the benefit forever after. Increasing
the depth of the soil in this mode, is to all intents and pur-
poses increasing the size of your garden; for one-fourth
of an acre thus prepared, will yield in a dry season, as
much as an acre will, with shallow tillage; and the growth

MANURES., - 25

of the plants in a good season, will be fully doubled.
Trees especially feel the benefit of this preparation, and
all fruit gardens should be thus prepared. No matter how
deep you may work the soil for trees or plants, their fibres
will penetrate it, and feel the good effect.

Trenching should be performed in the fall—the coarse
manure dug in at that time. At the top it should be well
manured with well rotted dung, charcoal dust, ashes, or
other good manure, dug in shallowly, taking care to level
the ground while trenching, so as to prevent washing.
Another good coat of compost should be added just before
planting in the spring.

Manvures.—Soils are also improved by supplying any
necessary constituents of plants in which they are partly
or wholly deficient; in other words, by the application of
manures. Anything which being added to the soil directly
or indirectly, promotes the growth of plants, is a manure.
They are of two classes. Organic and inorganic. The
first embracing animal and vegetadle, and the second min-
eral manure. Manures directly assist vegetable growth
either by entering into the composition of plants, by ab-
sorbing and retaining moisture from the atmosphere, or by
absorbing from it nutritive gases.

Manures edzrectly assist the growth of plants either by
destroying vermin or weeds by decomposing in the soil,
- and rendering available any stubborn organic remains, by
protecting plants from sudden changes of temperature, or
by improving the texture of the soil.

All the above properties probably never are combined
in any one manure, each being characterized by superiority
in some one of the above qualities.

The manures most generally applicable, are those com-
posed of substances which directly enter into and are essen-

2

yAs) GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

tial to the growth of plants. What are these substances ?
If you burn dried vegetables, a few ashes only remain;
less than one-tenth of their substance. This is all the plant
got necessarily from the soil. Over ninety per cent. has
escaped into the air, from which the plant derived it imme-
diately or remotely. The composition of their ashes, va-
ries in different species of plants, and slightly in the same
species, when grown in different soils; but they are always ~
a valuable manure for that species, and when slowly dis-
solved in the soil, furnish the roots with just the salts re-
quired to nourish the growing plant.

But over nine pounds in every ten, have disappeared
under the action of fire. The substances expelled are car-
bon, hydrogen, oxygen and nitrogen; all essential to
growth, and which must be furnished to the plant, or it
will perish. Carbon, nearly pure, occurs in charcoal in a
solid form, composing all of this substance but the ash.
Carbon uniting with the oxygen of the air, forms the ear-
bonic acid gas, so destructive to animal life when charcoal
is burned inaclose room. ‘The carbon of plants is derived
partly by the absorbtion of carbonic acid gas from the air by
their leaves; but the roots, also, extract a portion of the
same gas from the soil. We can increase the supply of this
by vegetable manure, such as decayed leaves and other car-
bonaceous matters, which, slowly decomposing, supply the
roots with abundant food. The others occur only as gases
or in combination with other substances. Oxygen forms
nearly half the substance of the globe. It unites with hy-
drogen, forming eight-ninths of the water we drink; and
with nitrogen forming one-fifth of the air we breathe. With
carbon it forms the carbonic acid described above. The oxy-
gen of plants is derived from all of the above sources, being
placed abundantly within the reach of every living thing.

Hydrogen, in combination with oxygen, forms one-ninth

MANURES. 27

of the weight of water; with carbon, it composes carbu-
retted hydrogen, and with nitrogen, ammonia. The main
supply of hydrogen is derived from water, a portion, how-
ever, is obtained from the ammoniacal and other gases
which pass from decomposing organic substances, and
from the absorption of soluble organic matters in the soil.

Of all the substances that minister directly to the growth
of plants, by entering into their composition, nitrogen is
perhaps the most necessary to supply. Though it forms
four-fifths of the atmosphere, yet in this state plants can-
not appropriate it. It unites with hydrogen forming am-
monia, and with oxygen forming nitric and nitrous acids,
from which compounds plants derive the small proportions
they appropriate. ‘Though the proportion of nitrogen
existing in plants is small, yet it is not the less essential;
but in fact, is that which is most needful to place within
their reach. Ammoniais the substance from which plants
derive most of their nitrogen. Ammonia or hartshorn is
the gas given out by the common smelling salts. It is
that which gives to animal manures their peculiar value.

This gas enters immediately into the circulation of
plants. We all know how luxuriantly plants grow in
putrid animal manure.

This is owing to the ammonia given off by the manure,
and appropriated directly by the plants, supplying them
with both its constituents nitrogen and hydrogen. Indeed
the value of manure is measured by the amount of am-
monia it contains, not because ammonia is more essential
than. some of the other constituents of plants, but because
more difficult to obtain in sufficient quantity. Manures
that are rich in nitrogen, readily pass into a state of fer-
mentation, and the abundant ammonia given off will often
burn the plants with which it comes in contact; hence
they are called hot manures, as guano, horse and pig

28 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

manure. These are most valuable for clays,which retam
the fertilizing gases and store them up for use.

Manures deficient in nitrogen, like those of all rumina-
_ ting animals and all kinds of vegetable manures are called
cold, and are best fitted for sandy soils, to which they
give tenacity and the power of retaining moisture and
ammonia.

The decayed parts rendered soluble of any plant as
well as its ashes are among the best manures for plants of
its own species. Vineyards have been kept fertile by
digging into the soil the fresh prunings of the vines, and
indeed, increase in richness from the slight manuring their
own leaves afford. So forests are enriched by falling
leaves.

After the oxygen, carbon, hydrogen, and nitrogen, are
driven off by combustion, the small per centage of ashes
remaining is made up of the following substances, viz.
chlorine, sulphur, phosphorous, silica or sand, potash, soda
lime, magnesia, and oxide of iron, all which in greater or
less proportions enter into the composition of our garden
crops, and must be supplied if wanting in the soil. Of
these, less general, or as they are called special manures,
lime and sulphur are most cheaply supplied by sulphate
of lime or gypsum, that being composed of sulphur, oxy-
gen and lime. It is a component of turnips, peas, and
beans, and if not already in the soil is a useful application
to these crops.

Phosphorous and Haste can be pages by crushed
bones, a most valuable manure, composed of phosphate
of lime and from thirty-four to fifty per cent. of gelatine,
which latter substance rapidly putrifies and becomes
available in supplying ammonia. The phosphate of lime
is found in wheat, peas, beans, cucumbers, potatoes, garlic,

é&c., &c. Wood ashes afford the cheapest mode of sup-

MANURES. 29

plying potash. Chlorine and soda are found in many
plants, and are best supplied from refuse common salt,
which not only enters into the composition of plants, but
is otherwise beneficial as shown hereafter. Phosphate of
lime and potash are the additions most frequently needed _
by soils. |
Let us now examine the constituents of common stable
manure, and note its value as a direct food for plants. Jt
contains,

Carbon,

, Hydrogen,
Oxygen,
Nitrogen.

Found in all plants.

Carbonate of lime,
do. of soda. piglets
Muriate of potash, in cucumbers, garlic, &c.
Chlorine of sodium,
Sulphate of soda,
do. of potash, in cucumbers, garlic, &e.
Magnesia in grains of all kinds.

Phosphate of lime, { Potatoes, vines, onions,
peas, beans, grain.

} In most plants.

Oxide of Iron,

Alumina, In most plants.
Silica.

Thus, the value of stable manure is readily seen, every
part of it has been formed of vegetable products, and is
ready when rendered soluble to enter into and minister
again to their growth. So of every other manure com-
posed of animal and vegetable remains, bones included.
It is not enough, however, that a substance contain the
essential components of the plant to which it is to be
applied. It must be in such a state, that the plants may

30 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

appropriate them, hence, animal matters which are easily
rendered soluble, have a much greater effect when first
applied, than vegetable manures, but the latter are more
permanent as their constituents gradually become soluble.
It is by putrefaction that all animal and vegetable remains
are rendered available to’plants, but if they are allowed to
putrefy without care, the loss isimmense—the soluble parts
are washed away, the gases pass off into the air, and at
least 50 per cent. of the manure is dissipated.

Some manures ameliorate the soil by absorbing and re-
taining moisture from the atmosphere. This property is
as beneficial to a clay as to a sandy soil during drought,
as at such times clays are often baked so as to be imper-
vious to the dew, and suffer nearly or quite as much as
more sandy soils. The best absorbents of moisture are
stable manure, thoroughly decomposed tanbark, and the
manure of the cow and pig, in the order named. After
these come sheep and fowl manure, salt, soot, and even
burnt clay is not without its virtue.. All these absorbents
are much more effectual when finely divided, and the soil
itself is a good absorbent in proportion te its richness, and
the friability produced by frequent culture. In the power
of retaining moisture absorded, pig manure stands pre-
eminent, next that of the horse, then common salt and
soot.

Some manures are beneficial in absorbing not only mois-
ture, but nutritious gases from the atmosphere which they
yield to the roots in a concentrated form. All animal and
vegetable manures have the power of: attracting oxygen
from the air during decomposition.

Charcoal and all carbonaceous matters have the power
of absorbing carbonic acid gas in large quantities. supply-
ing constantly to the roots of plants an atmosphere of
carbonic acid, which is renewed as quickly as it is ab-

MANURES. bl

stracted. The same substances are especially valuable for
their power of absorbing ammonia. Charcoal will absorb
ninety times its volume of ammoniacal gas which can be
separated by simply moistening it with water.

Decayed wood absorbs seventy times its volume, while
leaf mould, perfectly rotted tanbark, and in fact all
vegetable manures are exceedingly valuable in this re-
spect.

Manures indirectly assist the growth of plants by de-
stroying weeds and predatory vermia. This is not a
property of animal and vegetable manures, (except that
guano repels most insects,) they foster these enemies of
the crop, but salt, lime and ashes applied to the surface of
the soil are very destructive to nearly all insects, while
the roots of weeds and grasses if composted with the salt
and lime mixture are completely destroyed, and converted
into an excellent manure.

_ Another indirect action of manure in assisting the growth
of plants, is in decomposing and rendering available any
stubborn organic substances in the soil. Stable manure
and all decomposing animal and vegetable substances
have a tendency to promote the decay of any organic re-
mains in the soil. All putrescent substances hasten the -
process of putrefaction in other organic bodies with which
they come in contact. Even peat and tanbark mingled:
with stable dung, and kept moist are converted into good
manure; common salt in small proportions has a similar
septic property, and the efficacy of lime in this respect is
well known.

But the most valuable agent in decomposing organic

_ substances is the salt and lime mixture made as follows:

Take three bushels of unslacked lime, dissolve a bushel
of salt in as little water as possible, and slake the lime

_ therewith—if the lime will not take up all the brine at

ae ’GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

once,which it will, if good and fresh burned, turn it over
and let it lie a day and add a little more of the brine,
daily turning and adding until all is taken up.

This salt and lime mixture is exceedingly valuable. It
destroys the odor of putrefying animal matters, while it
retains the ammonia. Of itself it supplies plants with
chlorine, lime and soda, all of which are requisite. Any
vegetable refuse whatever, leaf mould, turf, straw, chips,
and even tanbark, if kept moist and sprinkled throughout
with this mixture, become thoroughly decomposed in ja.
very short time, and if used for the bottom of pig-pens,
stables and yards where they can absorb the urine, they
become the very best of manures. /

Another indirect agency of mantires, is in protecting
plants from sudden changes of temperature. There is no
doubt, that rich soils and those abounding in animal and
vegetable remains are less liable to change their tempera-
ture with the incumbent atmosphere, than those of poorer
constituents, for the decomposition of manures gives warmth
to the soil. Corn can be grown in high latitudes upon
.rich land only, upon a poor soil it would perish. Some
manures as salt, it is asserted, protect plants from suffering
by sudden reduction of temperature by entering into*their
systems—stimulating and rendering them more vigorous
impregnating their sap and rendering it less likely to be
congealed. This is doubtful.

The last indirect effect of manures upon plants is by
improving the texture of the soils in which they grow.
Decomposing in the ground they leave interstices as they
become less in bulk, making it more light and porous.
The effect of manure in rendering a stiff soil light and
porous is very wellknown. It is equally true that vege-
table manures give to sandy soils greater tenacity, enabling
them better to retain moisture and ammonia.

INORGANIC MANURES. 33

Having considered the modes in which manures act
upon the growth of plants, a still more important inquiry
remains, viz.: What manures can we obtain and render
available. The scarcity of manures at the South isa great
difficulty in gardening. But a small amount of live stock
is kept by our planters in proportion to the number of ©
acres in cultivation. What is thus obtainable is not well
husbanded, and is needed on the plantation for corn and
cotton. Still, on most country places, enough is wasted to
supply not only the garden, but to leave a surplus for the
plantation. In town, wherever a horse and cow can be kept,
enough can be made for a large garden, while even a pig if
kept at work in his pen with the aid of soap-suds from the
house, will convert some fifteen loads of weeds, yard sweep-
ings, chips, tanbark, and leaves, into a valuable manure.

Of Saline Manures, the most available are ashes leached
and unleached, which should be most carefully saved, as
potash is one of the elements most speedily exhausted
from the soil. They contain besides potash, phosphoric
and sulphuric acids, manganese, chlorine, soda, magnesia,
carbonate of lime, and soluble silica. They may be
applied directly to any crops and especially to fruit trees.
Composted with swamp, earth, and other vegetable mat-
ter, they correct its acidity, and form an excellent manure
for all crops, and in connection with lime form the best
compost for orchard purposes.

Lime may be applied in this compost for trees, but for
all garden crops, the lime and salt mixture affords a suffi-
ciency for the growing crops. Shell lime is the best to
employ, as it contains some phospate of lime which is still
more valuable. If lime is used alone, mix it intimately
with the surface soil, but do not plough or spade it in. Its
_ effect in improving the texture of soils, we have already
, considered.

Q*

384 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

All the constituents of the lime and salt mixture are
available to plants, the caustic lime dec»mposes the salt
forming chloride of calcium, while the soda set free, draws
carbonic acid from the atmosphere and becomes a carbonate.
Lime decomposes all organic matters, but it drives off the
ammonia, and hence, should not be used in connection
with animal manure. The mixture is still better than
lime for decomposing organic matters, and besides does not
drive off the ammonia therein.

Lime rubbish from old brick walls, and the snasiliebe
of old houses, absorb nitrogen from the air, forming nitrate
of lime. This salt furnishes nitrogen abundantly to plants.
This rubbish also contains a portion of hair and silicate of —
lime, and is a very powerful manure. One ton is suffi-
cient for an acre.

Common salt on lands so distant from the sea, that the
spray does not reach them, is a very beneficial manure.
The refuse salt which has been used for bacon is the most
valuable, as it contains in addition the blood and juices of -
_the meat which greatly increase its value. It may be di-
rectly applied to asparagus without injury, and at the rate
of six or eight bushels per acre applied in autumn, it benefits
all garden crops, keeping the soil moist and free from in-
sects and worms. Gypsum enters into the composition of
many crops, but a very small quantity will suffice. One
bushel per acre yearly is all that is needed. In absorbing
ammonia from the manure heap, charcoal dust and leaf
mould are much cheaper.

Marl where it can be obtained may be applied with ad-
vantage especially to sandy soils. It is generally benefi-
cial in proportion to the quantity of lime it contains.

Soot is rich in ammonia; very little of this can be pro-
cured, but it should be carefully preserved and applied in
small quantities to cabbage and other plants infested with

VEGETABLE MANURES. 85

insects. It drives these off and its ammonia also promotes
the growth of the plants.

Among the vegetable matters which may add to the
stock of manures for the garden, the very best is cotton
seed where it can be obtained. If the husk were removed
and the remainder reduced to an equally dried state, it
would scarcely be inferior in strength to guano itself. It
may be applied with advantage to any crop.

Charcoal renders the soil light and friable, gives it a
dark color and additional warmth for early crops. The
bed whereon charcoal has been burnt is always marked
by a more vigorous growth of plants when it becomes
sufficiently mixed with earth. It contains also small
quantities of silicate of potash and other fertilizing salts.

It absorbs both carbonic acid and ammonia from the
air, and yields them to the roots of plants. It is most
marked in its effects on plants which require abundant
nitrogen. As it is indestructible, its beneficial effects last
as long as it remains in the soil, supplying the spongioles
or rootlets of plants with an atmosphere of carbonic acid
which is renewed as fast as abstracted. Its good effects
begin to be seen when the dust is applied at the rate of
forty bushels per acre. Charcoal is invaluable for destroy-
ing the odor of decaying animal matter, retaining all the
gases in its own substance ready to yield them up for the
use of plants. Hence, the best application of this sub-
stance is not directly to the soil, but to compost it with
putrescent animal matters, urine or night soil, of which it
will absorb all the odor and fertilizing gases given off
during their decomposition. Composted with the last
named substance, it becomes poudrette, and is second only
to guano as a fertilizer.

In striking cuttings or potting plants, eoal is a
valuable substitute for sand, plants rooting in with greater

86 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

certainty. Fine charcoal can be obtained in considerable
quantities from the old hearths where it has been buried,
also the refuse of smith’s shops, founderies, and machine
shops. All the refuse of the garden that will not decay,
pea-brush, trimmings of trees, cabbage and corn stalks, to-
gether with tanbark, saw-dust, fresh shavings may be
collected, the coarser materials placed at the bottom and
set on fire when the heap is building, then covered with
the finer, beating all well together, cover it well with short
moist,rubbish weeds and clods. Bermuda grass turf is the
best material for this purpose if you are troubled with it.
Thrust a stake in different places that the fire may run
through the entire heap, and if it breaks out in any of
these, stop them with rubbish or earth and make holes in
a new place. When finished and the fire put out, store it
up for use. The roasted turf as well as the charcoal is a
most valuable manure, especially for roses.

Beside charcoal, there are many other vegetable sub-
stances of great value, as absorbents of the fertilizing salts
and gases that would otherwise escape from animal
manures. Carbonaceous matter of every sort should be
provided for this purpose. Gather the leaves of trees of
ail kinds ineluding pine straw. They contain all the sub-
stances necessary for the growth of the plants from which
they fall, and in the proportion needed for new growth.
Throw them into the stables and yards, moisten them and
sprinkle them with the lime and salt mixture, and if kept
in a damp state and turned over once or twice, they form
the best manure known for all kinds of trees and shrubs,
and indeed afford all the necessary constituents organic
and inorganic of all cultivated plants.

Another valuable absorbent is swamp muck. Gather
the black earth of swamps, place in piles and let it dry
out the superfluous moisture, haul it to the compost heap

MANURES. 37

or yard, and mix with every load a bushel and a half of
the lime and salt mixture intimately while it is in a
moderately moist state, and in thirty days it will be de-
composed. Upon a layer of this earth six inches thick,
spread a coat of fresh stable manure,each day covering it
with ten times its quantity of prepared muck which will
absorb all the gases and salts. Let the pile accumulate
until four feet high, and then turn it all over, mix it intim-
ately, and cover the whole with a thick coat of prepared
muck. If too dry to ferment, add water, and in three
weeks it will be fit for use, and will be found equal to
common stable manure, and is entirely free from insects of
all kinds. In reducing composts of all kinds, the heap
must be kept moist or no fermentation will be produced,
keeping it “always moist but never leached” is the way
to produce a strong compost.

A thick layer of the muck should be kept also in the
hog-pens and stables to absorb the urine, removing the
solid manure from the latter daily, and the muck at the
end of each week. Upon this muck also the house slops
of all kinds should be poured and where charcoal is not
employed, a bushel every three days should be thrown
into the privy to destroy the offensive gases produced.

Swamp muck may also be reduced with ashes or lime,
either of which will destroy all acid properties. The salt
and lime mixture is the best and usually the cheapest, but
leached ashes mixed with carbonaceous matter have an
additional part of their potash, rendered soluble and avail-
able for plants, and should be used thus where obtain-
able.

Of still more value is leaf mould or the black surface
soil of the woods. This is free from the acid properties of
swamp muck, and may be applied directly to most plants
in the flower garden, many of which will not flourish un-

88 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

less this material is present in the soil. It is of still more
importance for potting plants in the greenhouse. For the
kitchen and fruit garden it is best composted like swamp
muck with fresh animal manure. |

Another material abounding in carbon which may, to
some extent, be used as an absorbent of animal manure is
tanbark. It may be beneficially applied directly to straw-
berries, to which it answers the double purpose of mul-
ching and manure. But the crowns of the plants must
not be covered; for all purposes it ane be obtained as
much dleiunjdoedl as possible.

Tan may be applied directly to Irish potatoes when
ready to cover in the furrow. After they are dropped fill
the furrow even with the surface with tan, and finish by
covering this with earth. A little of the lime and salt
mixture is applied with the tan to great advantage. It
improves the yield materially and the quality also, as all
carbonaceous matters do. Where swamp muck or leaf
mould can be obtained, it is hardly worth while to use
tan as an absorbent of animal manures. It is very diff-
cult to reduce, but if kept moist the lime and salt mixture
will doit. It may be strewed in the stock yard six or eight
inches thick, and sprinkled pretty thickly with the mix-
ture. The treading of the stock will mix it. Let the
whole be turned over in a moist state once or twice, and
in the course of the winter it will become a valuable ap-
plication to the plants that do well with fresh manure.
There are abundant elements of fertility in tan but it is
more difficult to render them available than with any other
vegetable substance; perhaps the readiest and most profit-
able method is to char it. Decayed chips, sawdust,
shavings, &c., are best applied to Irish potatoes, as directed
in the case of tanbark.. They should be covered with soil
to promote a more speedy decay.

MANURES. 89

Green Manures.— There are various crops raised to turn
into the ground in a fresh state for fertilizing it. For
this purpose all the weeds of the garden should be em
ployed while green unless they are thrown to the pig.
Over any vacant spots in the garden not wished to be used
in autumn, rye or barley can be sown which will keep the
soil from washing, and when large enough may be either
eut for the cow or turned into the soil as the plots are
wanted for use.

Spinach should be sown in considerable quantities as it
grows all winter and spaded into the soil in the spring
adds a good deal to its fertility—the seed in any quantity
can be saved with little trouble. The most cmportant
class of manures is that derived from animals. All animal
manures when compared with the preceding class are rich
in nitrogen, easily decomposed and rendered soluble, but
though the effect of this class of substances is much more
obvious it is not so lasting.

The greatest attention should be gaia to collecting,
preserving, and economizing animal manure. Its great
value consists in certain volatile and soluble substances
which in the common mode of preserving manure are dis-
sipated in the air or washed away by heavy rains. In
this climate to shelter it from the sun and rain is very
necessary. All animal matter is either directly or indirect-
ly derived from vegetable substances, hence, every portion
of the same that can be rendered soluble is a valuable food
for plants. Among the most important animal substances
employed as manures are urine and dung of all kinds.
The first of these is almost invariably wasted, though in
the case of the cow, it is of more value than the solid ex-
crements. It should be carefully saved by bedding the
yard and stables with swamp muck or some other absorb-
ent. Urine is particularly rich in ammonia. This may

40 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

be absorbed by the muck or its strength may be retained
by sprinkling the floor of stables and the manure heap
frequently with fine charcoal or plaster of Paris. Gypsum
sprinkled upon the floors of stables forms a compound
like the urate of commerce, so powerful that 500 pounds
will amply manure an acre. If you can obtain no other
absorbent, even tanner’s bark is not without its value,
but the weeds, sweepings of walks, and other refuse of the
garden are to be preferred. Urine may also be diluted
with three times its weight of water and permitted to
grow stale and be applied at night or in moist weather
directly to the growing crops. The principal animal
manures are those of the horse, the hog, the cow, and the
sheep. Of these horse manure is most valuable in its
fresh state. That of the hog comes next, then that of the
ox, while the cow is at the bottom of the list because most
of the enriching substances in her food go to the formation
of milk, leaving the manure comparatively weakened.
The manures of animals is far richer than their food, be-
cause it contains more nitrogen, the carbon and oxygen of
the food being taken up by the lungs and blood to sustain
the animal heat. The richer the food given to animals
the more powerful is the manure. If animal manures are
employed in a fresh state they should be mixed intimately
with the soil and given to such coarse feeding crops as
corn and the garden pea. But nearly all plants do better
if the manure is composted and fully fermented before
use. Pig manure used alone is pernicious to the growth
of the cabbage and turnip tribe, and gives an unpleasant
taste to many other vegetables, but composted with muck or
mould it is much more beneficial as well as more durable.

In managing animal manures, decomposition must be
promoted to convert the nitrogen into ammonia—the vola-
tile parts must be preserved from dissipation in the air,

GUANO, Al

and the soluble portions from being washed out by rains,
That it may ferment, it must be kept in a body that heat
may be generated and its natural moisture retained, while
beneath it alayer of some absorbent substance should be
placed to receive and retain its soluble parts, and as fast
as it is thrown from the stables it should be covered with
layers of muck to retain the ammonia. Horse manure,
especially, should not be exposed at all, it begins to heat
and lose nitrogen almost immediately as may be perceived
by the smell. Mix it with other manures and cover it
with absorbents as soon as possible.

The manure of birds is richer than that of any other
animals; as the solid and liquid excrements are mixed to-
gether, it is particularly rich in nitrogen and the phos-
phates. ‘Three or four hundred weight of the manure of
fowls, turkeys, &c., is of equal value with from fourteen to
eighteen loads of animal manure. Guano is a manure of this
class. Itis the manure of sea-birds which has accumulated in
tropical latitudes where it seldom or never rains. ‘These
birds feed upon fish entirely, hence, the manure is re-
markably rich in nitrogen. Guano is this substance with
the water evaporated. The Peruvian and Bolivian are
the best varieties, and when these can be bought pure,
delivered at not over three dollars to three dollars and a
half per hundred weight, it is generally the cheapest
manure to be obtained as it is so easily applied—the labor
of applying other manures often approaching the price of
guano. It is well to apply about two hundred weight per
acre with one half the usual quantity of other manure
Guano should never in a fresh state come in-contact with
seeds or the roots of plants as it is sure to destroy their
vitality. In setting out fruit trees and shrubs of all kinds
guano is the cheapest and most convenient manure to

apply. After the holes are dug, sprinkle the bottom

42 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

thinly with a handful of guano. Cover this at least three
inches deep. On this you may plant your trees with
safety, and after the roots are covered a little more may
be sprinkled and the whole covered with soil. But the
great value of guano is in forming liquid manure, one
pound of guano to five gallons of water applied once a week
will add wonderfully to the growth of any plants watered
with this mixture. For very delicate plants twice the
above quantity of water should be given. If guano is not
to be had, the manure of fowls is a good substiture. 'This
liquid is especially valuable in the flower garden. It
must be poured upon the roots and not upon the leaves or
collars of the plants. On lawns, a pound sprinkled upon
each square rod will restore their verdure. A great ad-
vantage of applying guano is that no seeds of weeds are
scattered in the soil.

Night soil and chamber slops should be composted as
before directed with charcoal or the black mould from the
woods.

Gypsum may be added to the mixture, all smell is
thus destroyed and an offensive nuisance is converted into
a valuable application to any crop. Where charcoal is
freely used this substance becomes perfectly inodorous.
Guano and poudrette are the best possible manures for
the cabbage tribe and other plants that need phosphates
and nitrogen. Both these manures are exceedingly pow-
erful but their effects do not last beyond one season. ‘The
fertilizing properties exist in the right proportions to be
taken up at once by the plants, and nearly all their nutri-
tive properties are exhausted the season they are applied.

The following table from Boussingault gives a compre-
hensive view of the proportion of azote or nitrogen con-
tained in the most common manures, and of their quality

MANURES. 43

and equivalents, referred te farm yard dung as the stand-
ard. Thus ten lbs. of fresh cotton-seed oil cake is equal
in value to one hundred fresh or wet farm yard dung as
far as the nitrogen in each isconcerned. ‘To form a perfect
table of equivalents the phosphates, potash, &c., must be
also taken into consideration.

Quality Equivalent

5S | Azote in 100 |according 10] according
an state, to state,
oe. DEg, Wet Dry | Wet. Dry, | Wet
Farm yard dung, 79.3} 1.95) 9.41} 100 100 /100
Dung from an Inn yard, 60.6] 2.08) 0.79} 107 94 | 51
Dung water, 99.6| 1.54) 0.06) 78 127 | 68
Withered leaves of carrots, 70.9| 2.94! 0.85} 150! 212.5) 66 | 47
do. do. of oak 25.0| 1.57) 1.18}. 80).293 |125 | 84
Oyster shells, . : - |17.9| 0.40) 0.32] 20) 80 [488 {125
Oak sawdust, : 26.0) 0.72} 0.54] 386) 185 1256 | 74
Oil cake of cotton seed, - 111.0} 4.52] 4.02) 281|1000 | 82 | 10
Solid cow dung,... 85 9} 2.30} 0.32) 117; 80 | 84 {125
Urine of cows, . : - 188.3] 3.80] 0.44) 194| 110 | 51 | 91
Mixed cow dung, . 84.3} 2.59) 0.41] 182} 102.5) 75 | 98
Solid horse dung, 75,.3| 2.21) 0.55} 113) 187.5) 88 | 73
Horse urine,. 79,11 12.50} 2.611 641| 652.5) 153) 143
Mixed (horse dung,) 75.4| 8.02] 2.74 154) 185 | 66 | 54
Pig dung, 81.4] 38.37] 0.63) 172) 157.5) 58 | 638
Sheep cunee? - 63.0] 2.99) 1.11} 158} 277.5) 65 | 36
Poudrette of Belloni, ‘ 12,5| 4.40) 3.85) 225) 962 | 44 | 103
Pigeon’s dung, : 9.6| 9.02) 8.80) 462|2075 | 213) 5
Guano from England, . 19.6} 6.20) 5.00) 3238/1247 | 313] 80
Idem . | 23.4] 7.05) 5.40} 8361/1849 | 28 | 74
do. imp. from France, 11,3] 15.78)13.95| 807\3487 | 123] 283
Dried muscular flesh, 8,5] 14.25)13.04| 7380/8260 | 183] 3
Liquid blood, 81.0 2.95) 795/3045 | 123) 34
Fresh bones,. 30.0 5.31 1326 72
Feathers,. . 12.9] 17.61|15.34} 9038/8885 | 11] 23
Cow hair flock, 8.9 15.12/13.78) 775|8445 | 138 | 3
Woollen rags, . 11.3} 20.26)17.98/1039)4495 al ee
Horn shavings, 9.0] 15.78]14.36} 80913590 | 122] 3
Wood soot, . ‘ 5.6} 1.81) 1.15) 67| 287-5149 | 35
Vegetable mould,. 1.03 53 |LS9 | 33

There are several other substances which, when they
can be obtained, should be carefully applied. Among

44 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

these, the most available are the offal of slaughtered ani-
mals and their carcasses, hair, bristles, leather, refuse from
the tanners and shoemakers, woollen rags, and bones. All
these contain the elements required by growing plants in
a very concentrated state. The hair, bristles, &c., may
be applied directly to any crop. These matters are very
powerful, and a small quantity will suffice. Slaughter-
house offal, and the carcasses of any animals that may have
died, should be buried deeply in a pit, with absorbents
beneath, and covered with muck or loam. In a year it
will become a most valuable manure.

Bonzs are an especially useful application to almost any
garden crop. Bones contain sixty-six parts of earthy mat-
ter, mostly phosphate of lime, and thirty-four parts of gel-
atine. Phosphate of lime, next to ammonia, is the most
necessary application to a soil, because the first element
exhausted. Gelatine is rich in nitrogen, so that in bones
are united the most desirable organic and inorganic ma-
nures. Applied whole, bones decompose too slowly to be
of much value, and would be greatly in the way of tillage.
‘They may be broken small with a sledge-hammer or crow-
bar, in a large wooden mortar, lined at the bottom with a
thick iron plate. When beaten small, the fine dust can
be sifted out, and the remainder moistened and thrown up
in heaps, to ferment a few months. Bones can be dis-
solved by boiling them in strong lye, and dried, by mixing
with ashes or sand, can be applied broadcast or in the
drills. ‘The best way to treat bones is to dissolve them in
sulphuric acid, forming superphosphate of lime. A car-
boy of sulphuric acid, costing about four dollars, at whole-
sale, in the cities, and containing one hundred and sixty
pounds, will dissolve about three hundred pounds of bones.
The bones should be put ina tub. A portion of the acid

COMPOST. 45

equal to one-third should be diluted by pouring it into
three times its bulk of water, and then should be poured
upon the bones. After standing a day or two, pour on
another portion of diluted acid, and if not already dissolved,
in a day or two after the remainder should be added. The
mass must be often stirred. The bones will dissolve into
a kind of paste, which may be mixed with thirty times its
bulk of water, and used as a liquid manure, but it is more
convenient in practice to mix it with ashes, sawdust, or fine
charcoal. ‘Three bushels of these dissolved bones are suf-
ficient for an acre. The acid has converted the bones into
a superphosphate of lime, which is very soluble, and is
readily taken up by the plant. This is the most valuable
of all manures for the turnip, and the quantity needed for
the acre is so little that the expense is less than almost
any other application.

Composts.—The composting of manure should take
place, as a general thing, as fast as it is made. Still,
in the garden, out of sight, there should be a compost heap
for receiving all kinds of rubbish that can have the least
value as fertilizers. Make a shallow excavation of a
square or oblong form, with the bottom sloping to one end.
Into this collect the litter and sweepings of the yards, de-
cayed vegetables of all kinds, brine, soapsuds, and slops
from the house, woollen rags, leaves, green weeds, and
garden refuse. After it has accumulated a little, turn it
over, adding a little of the salt and lime mixture, and keep
the whole inodorous, by covering it with rich mould or
black earth from the woods. If the heap is formed en-
_tirely of vegetable materials, ashes and lime should be
added; but if it contain animal matter, they would do
harm by letting free the ammonia. 'The heap should not
be deep, but, like all other manure heaps, should be kept

46 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

“always moist, but never leached,” by the addition of ~

liquids from the house and kitchen. If this compost be fora
sandy soil, the addition of clay would be very beneficial.

SpeciAL Manures.—The subject of special manures,
though still in its infancy having attracted great attention,
we have given under the head of all the most important
vegetables, their analyses and sometimes with hints for
special manuring the same.

We know each species of animals requires peculiar kinds
of food in order fully to develop its pewers, and that food
specially adapted to one species will not nourish and will
be refused by another. The dog or cat would starve on
food which would fatten the horse. So each species of
vegetable is equally select in its requircments for food.
Some plants will perish in soil specially adapted for the
growth of a different species. Every plant will not come
to perfection in a rich soil. More or less lime is necessary
for instance to most cultivated plants, yet the pine sorrel
and kalmia will not grow where much lime is present.

Besides organic substances as already stated, all culti-
vated plants contain several or all of the following constitu-
ents: potash, soda, lime, magnesia, chlorine, sulphuric and
phosphoric acids, silex, &c., and for successful culture all
the inorganic materials of a plant must be found in the soil.
The amount of these substances found in the soil can be
pretty exactly determined by analysis, but sufficiently so
for all practical purposes by noticing its geological forma-
tion and the plants growing spontaneously upon it. Soil
analyses should be obtained only of the most accurate
chemists as there are many sources of error and the pro-
portion of some one or two materials required by plants
in the soil is so small that they may possibly exist in suf-
ficient quantity and yet escape detecticn. The amount of

ROTATION OF CROPS. 44

these substances taken up by each plant is determined by
analyzing its ashes. The amount of each of these materials
in healthy plants of the same species at the same stage
of growth is pretty constant.

In some species no soda at all is found, in others no
magnesia, in others very little lime, and the proportion of
acids as well as alkalies, varies in different plants. The
object of special manures is to supply those substances
which are most likely not to exist in the soil in sufficient
quantity for the wants of the plant under cultivation. The
salts most important to the growth of plants in which soils
are most apt to be deficient are lime, phosphate of lime,
and potash. An application of the two latter is almost
invariably beneficial. Other substances also when taken
up in large quantities will require to be supplied, such as
soda, sulphuric acid, and chlorine. The analysis of a plant
however does not always indicate truly what the plant
most needs in the soil. Many plants have more of the
phosphate in their composition than the turnip but no one
is so much benefited by the application of phosphate and
superphosphate of lime.

RoTaTION oF Crops.—As different plants appropriate
different substances, the rotation of crops has considerable
influence in retaining the fertility of a soil. If the same
kind of plants are continued upon the same soil, only a
portion of the properties of the manure applied is used,
while by a judicious rotation everything in the soil or in the
manure suitable for vegetable food is taken up and appro-
priated by the crop. Some vegetables as onionsand carrots
are very exhausting to the soil while lettuce is very slightly
prejudicial. Hence, however plentiful manure may be, a
succession of exhausting crops should not be grown upon
the same bed, not only because abundance is no excuse for

48 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

want of economy, but because manure freshly applied is
not so immediately beneficial as those remains of organized
matter which by long continuance in the soil have become
impalpably divided and diffused through its texture of
which each succeeding crop consumes a portion. Those
plants generally are least exhausting which have the lar-
gest surface of leaves, not only because they are made up
of a greater proportion of aqueous matter but also because
they are enabled to obtain more in proportion of their food
from the atmosphere. <A rotation was formerly thought
necessary from an idea that each plant throws off from its
roots into the soil certain matters which are iujurious to
others of the same species afterward grown upon the soil,
but this view can hardly be sustained. Another reason
for rotation of crops is that some crops are so favorable to
weeds that if continued long upon the same bed the labor
of cultivating them is much increased, while if raised but
once in a place and followed by a cleaning crop, the weeds
are easily kept under.

Besides many crops planted continually in the same soil
are more liable to be attacked by the insects which are
the peculiar enemies of those plants. Again different
plants derive their principal nourishment from different
depths of soil. Hence deep-rooted plants should be suc-
ceeded by those whose roots extend but little below the
surface. Perennial plants by annuals, crops left for seed
or that are of a dry solid texture, by those which are suc-
culent and juicy.

In short, the same species of plants should never be
grown in successive crops upon the same ground. The
most beneficial plan is where exhausting and non-exhaust-
ing crops alternate with each other, as after manure, viz.:

Onions, Lettuce, Cabbage, Carrots, Manure ; or,
Turnips, Celery, Peas, Potatoes, Manure.

ROTATION OF CROPS. 49

The following is also a very good rotation.
_ 1. The cabbage tribe to be followed by

2. Alliaceous plants, ‘as onions, leeks, &c., to be followed
by legumes, as beans or peas. Peas may be followed the
same year with celery.

3. Tap-rooted plants, as carrots, beets, parsnips

4. Surface roots, as onions, potatoes, turnips.

5. Celery, endive, lettuce, spinach, &c.

Celery is excellent to precede asparagus, onions, cauli-
flowers, or turnips; old asparagus beds for carrots, pota-
toes, &c.; strawberries, and raspberries for the cabbage
tribe ; cabbage for the tap-rooted plants; potatoes for the
cabbage tribe. |

In these rotations it is not necessary to apply manure
to every crop. For the bulbous roots as the onion, plants
cultivated for their leaves as spinach and asparagus, the
ground can scarcely be too rich, and the bulk of the ma-
nures may be applied to them and the cabbage and tur-
nip crops, while for plants raised for seed it is best that
the foliage should not be stimulated into too great luxu-
riance. .

Sus-succession.—To get the highest possible results
from a garden, there must be not only a general rotation
of crops year by year, but a number of sub-successions
each year, as fast as the crops are removed. One-fourth
of an acre thoroughly manured and kept perfectly free
from weeds, and as fast as one crop is removed another
placed upon the ground, will yield more than an acre
managed in the common way. | |

For instance, late in the fall a portion of the garden
may be occupied with spinach; this should be heavily
manured, and may keep the ground until time to plant
melons and other vines, when just enough of the ground

3

50 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

may be deeply dug to form the melon hills, and the crop
will be ready to remove before the melons begin to run, |
The melon crop may be followed by one of turnips. All
such plants as radish, lettuce, and other small salads need
take up no room: they can, any of them, be raised be-
tween the potatoe drills, or between melon hills, rows of
corn, &c. and will come to perfection before the potatoe or
other crops require the ground. Radishes can be raised
in the beds of all kinds of plants that are slow in coming
up, as carrots, parsnips, &c., and will be ready to remove
by the time the others come up. Three or four weeks
before Irish potatoes are ripe, a plant of winter cabbage
can be placed in the trench caused by earthing up the po-
tatoes, where it will find shade and moisture until well
established, and digging the potatoes will cultivate the
cabbage. Between the rows of early potatoes is also a
good situation for raising celery for home use.

Any vacant spot that occurs early in summer should be
occupied with plantings of extra early or sweet corn, pota-
toes, kidney beans, for preserving for winter use, and cu-
cumbers for pickling. ‘Those coming later in the season,
may be occupied by sweet potatoe until July, then corn,
cow peas, or Ruta Baga turnips. Where the early onions
grow, both in the alleys and in the centre of the bed,
before much of the crop is removed, may be planted with
late cabbages or Siberian kale. Cabbage will head out
planted Ist August if in moist ground and well culti-
vated, and sweet corn may be planted at the same time.
Still later, every unoccupied corner should he covered
with turnips and winter radishes, which may cover nearly
the whole garden, being sown in drills between the rows
of plants not yet quite ready to be removed. After the
frost has come, any vacant spaces should be immediately
sown with spinach, onions, and other crops for early spring

PROFITS OF GARDENING. 51

use, or with barley or rye for the cow. The secret of
successful cultivation, says Downing, is an abundant sup-
ply of manure. A small extent of ground well manured
and trenched deeply, by these sub-successions, will pro-
duce an enormous amount of vegetables, while only the
same surface needs to be hoed, manured, and kept free
from weeds as if it produced but one crop. To be sure,
more manure and more labor are needed, but nothing like
the amount which would be réquired to produce the same
crops without these sub-successions. Many other sub-suc-
cessions will occur to a thoughtful gardener, but to derive
the full benefit of them the grounds should be trenched at
least thirty inches deep when the garden is formed.

Prorits oF GARDENING.—The results of the above mode
of procedure, in the case of the garden of the Retreat for
the Insane at Utica, New York, were published by Dr.
Brigham. The land was good and yearly manured. The
product was as follows on one and one-fourth acres of
land :—1100 heads lettuce, large; 1400 heads cabbage, large ;
700 bunches radishes; 250 bunches asparagus; 300 bunches
rhubarb; 14 bushels pods, marrowfat peas; 40 bushels beans;
sweet corn, 3 plantings, 419 dozen; summer squash, 715
dozen; squash peppers, 45 dozen; cucumbers, 756 dozen;
cucumber pickles, 7 barrels; beets, 147 bushels; carrots, 29
bushels; parsnips, 26 bushels; onions, 120 bushels; turnips,
80 bushels; early potatoes, 35 bushels ; tomatoes, 40 bushels;
winter squash, 7 wagon loads; celery, 500 heads—all worth
621 dollars in Utica market, but supplied one hundred
and thirty persons with all they could consume. Only
one man was required to do all the necessary labor.

Forwarpinc Karty Crops.—Early crops in the open
air should be planted in g gheltered sityation, on g dark-

52 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

colored, silicious soil. It may be brought to a proper
state by the admixture of sand and charcoal. Crops may
be retarded by planting in a border sheltered from the
sun, and of a lighter color and more aluminous. There
are many plants which do much better if sown in the fall.
Rhubarb, parsley, &c., come up more freely if suffered to
be in the ground all winter. Potatoes, too, may be early
planted, and if they come up, should be sheltered by a cover-
ing of straw or litter, added from time to time to keep them
from frost. Cabbage, cauliflower, brocoli, &c., may be kept
out all winter in boxes made by nailing four pieces of
boards together, eight inches wide. Cut the pieces 12
inches wide at the bottom, and 10 at the top, nail them
together at the corners. After the frosts begin to be se-
vere, throw in a handful of loose straw, which will pre-
vent the sudden freezing and thawing of the plants.
Great care should be taken to produce early crops, as
they are less liable to be injured by insects or weeds, and
very much increase the satisfaction of gardening. Early
plants may be obtained by sowing them in a box set by a
window, or raised in autumn and protected in winter in a
cold frame or pit, or raised any time during winter in a
hot bed for those more delicate, or in a cold frame under
glass for the hardier kinds. Radishes sown under glass
without heat early in January are generally fit for use
early in March. Such plants, when set out in the spring,
require shading a few days until established.

Frames or Hot Beds are most usually employed for
forwarding plants. The frame for general use has from
three to five sashes, (see plate), and is made for con-
venience about four and a half or five feet wide, and
the length depends on the number of sashes, which are
usually about forty inches wide. Use the smallest glass
you can obtain, certainly not over seven by nine. A

HOT BEDS. 53

smaller size is preferable, as it is not so liable to be
broken, and can be more readily repaired. These sashes
are made without cross-bars, the glass over-lapping like

ea\
\)

air

the shingles of a house, and resting on bars extending
lengthwise of thesash. The lap of each pane of glass need
not be over half an inch, and if the glass is set in the sash
when freshly painted with two coats of good paint, no
puttying is necessary. The bars which sustain the glass
may be two inches wide, which will make the sash
stronger. ‘The frame is a box of boards, three feet high
* in front,and three feet ten inches in the back. The front,
of course, is towards the south, Let the corners of the
frame be nailed to small pieces of scantling, which may
rest upon bricks or blocks. At the corner, also, of each
sash let another piece of scantling be placed, and on the .
top of these, narrow strips twice the length of the sash are
to be nailed, extending back for the sash to slide upon.
The ends projecting should also be supported by pieces
of timber. Between the sashes, nail an inch strip a little
thicker than the sash to the narrow plank on which they
slide, and put on the sash; and upon this strip nail
another narrow strip, projecting over the sash a little, to
hold them in their place, but not so tightly but what they
will readily slide in this groove. They can be taken out
at either end. Tack on a piece of leather at the upper

54 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

end of eash sash, to draw it up more readily. All cracks
should be closed by fitting in pieces of boards over them.
Fill up the box thus constructed with good stable ma-
nure, in which there is plenty of litter. If this is not in
the mass in sufficient quantity, add oak-leaves or tanbark,
There should be at least one-third litter in the heap.
Shake it up and mix it well together, adding water if at
all dry, and throw it into a compact heap to ferment. In
a week, turn it over, and if dry and musty in any part,
water the same. Let it be two or three days longer, and
then work it over thoroughly, as before, and water if ne-
cessary. Then put it into the frame and press it down
closely, and equally filling it within twelve inches of the
top all around, a little higher in the centre than at the
sides. It is well to excavate about ten inches below the
frame, to admit a larger body of manure. Put on the
sash and keep them close until the heat rises and a steam
appears upon the glass. As soon as the heat rises, give
air at noon each day, but keep closed in the evening and
at night, unless the heat is very violent, when a little air
should be given. In three days, if the manure was suffi-
ciently moist, the bed will be ready for use. If it has set-
tled unequally, level the surface and add eight inches of
fine, dark-colored, sandy garden-soil, spread it evenly, and
put on the sash. When warmed through, sow in pots
plunged in the mould, or in small drills from one-eighth
of an inch to an inch deep, varying in depth with the size
of the seeds, and cover by sifting fine earth on the sur-
face. Water gently by sprinkling through the fine rose
of a watering pot, until the seeds appear, when they
should have air every day freely (unless absolutely freez-
ing) which will bring them up strong, and prevent their
dropping off by excess of confined moisture. There are
very few days which will not permit opening the bed at

PROPAGATION, 55

noon. During warm, gentle rains, the sash should be
opened, but closed very carefully during cold or heavy
washing storms. About 60° is the proper temperature.
Such a bed as this is invaluable for striking cuttings of
all kinds, in which case there should be an inch of clear
river sand or charcoal spread over the surface. Annuals
of all kinds for the flower garden, radish, tomatoes, pep-
pers, cabbage and lettuce plants, &c., will be ready, if the
bed is made in January, for transplanting quite as soon as
they can be removed with safety.

Cold Frames are made just like the above, only the
box need not be over 15 inches high at the back, and are
excellent for wintering half hardy plants of all kinds, and
also for forwarding the more hardy plants, as cabbage,
lettuce, &c. Indeed, they are quite as indispensable as
the hot bed, and less expensive. In very severe weather,
the heat may be kept in by earthing up the sides and
covering the sash with mats during the night. Air should
always be given when the weather will admit, or the
plants will grow up yellow and spindling. In managing
frames, the secret of success is to give plenty of. air.
Plants raised in cold frames are generally more hardy and
desirable than those from a hot bed.

PROPAGATION OF PLants.—There are only two general
modes of propagating plants, viz., dy seed and by division.
Species are propagated by seed, but varieties, generally by
division as they do not always continue true from seed.
There are also two modes of propagating by division; in
the one, the plants root in the ground as suckers, layers
and cuttings, and in the other they root in another plant,
as In budding, grafting, and inarching. While all plants
are naturally multiplied by seed, most kinds also allow of.
propagation by division, as by taking offsets, parting their

eg

D6 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

roots, suckers, cuttings, runners, layers, &c. Propagation
by seed often produces new varieties which are only to be
perpetuated by division of their roots, cuttings, layers, or
budding and grafting upon stocks.

PROPAGATION BY SEED.—The most healthy and vigor-
ous plants are generally produced by seed, and this is the
only method of obtaining new varieties. Great care should
be used in the selection of seed, as on their perfection the
growth of the young plant very much depends. They
should be sound and well ripened that they may germinate
freely. Some seeds lose their vitality very soon after
being gathered, others retain it but one or two seasons,
and are better if sown as fresh as possible, while melon
seed grows better by keeping. The soundness of seed
may be tested by putting them into warm water; nearly
all sound seeds will sink in this fluidin a short time. They
can also be proved by planting a few in a pot and keep-
ing it in a warm room, or plunged in a hot bed, and a few
days will test the soundness of the seed. The causes of
unsoundness in seed are blight, unripeness, mouldiness
and age.

Seed should not only be sound but of the right kind as
it is very vexatious to sow early Yorks when you think
your are sowing drumheads and vice versa. The way to
avoid such mistakes is either to raise your own seed, or to
know of whom you buy. Your own eye in the case of
many seeds will not assist you at all in discriminating.

Seed must not only be of the right sort, but true to that
sort. Early York cabbage seed may be sown, or Scarlet
radish seed, yet from having been planted near to some
other varieties, the seed is crossed with them and the most ~
valuable qualities of the variety lost. The cabbage may
be late or long-legged and not head at all, or the radish

SAVING SEEDS. 57

tough and misshapen. The seed may come up well but
when fullgrown not be at all the thing you wish. Truth in
seed is in insured by raising them yourself and at so great
a distance from any other plants of the same species that
intermixture is impossible. If you buy, purchase only ot
a trusty seedsmen, and as these cannot raise all the va-
rieties, even they may be deceived. If you get hold of
seeds that are very true, it is best to buy enough to last as
long as those seeds will keep. Among the most reliable
wholesale seedsmen, I will mention the following houses
(without disparaging others), whose seeds I have used and
find them reltable. Buist & Landreth, of Philadelphia;
Hovey & Co., of Boston; and Thorburn, of New York.
In many cases it would be better to remit to these gentle-
men direct, through a merchant and obtain the desired
kinds, than to plant the miserable seeds often sent out to
our stores, even if the latter were gratis. ‘There is no
reason in the world why the South should not raise its
own seeds.

SAVING AND PRESERVING SEEDS.—Directions are given
under each plant, but we will add the following general
rules. :—

The very finest plants should be chosen for this pur-
pose, that is, those most true to their kind and most
perfect in shape and quality. In the cabbage, a small
short stem, well formed head with few loose leaves; in the
turnip large bulb, small neck, few short and slender stalked
leaves, and solid flesh. In the radish, high color (unless
white), small neck, few and short leaves, and in the case
of flowers, seed should be saved only from those most per-
fectly developed.

Great care should be taken to preserve the varieties

unmixed, as if varieties of the same species, or very similar
Q
o

' 68 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

species are planted near each other they will cross and
produce untrue seed. In this way, it is true, valuable va-
rieties often originate, but the chances preponderate that
the produce will be worthless. ‘There can be no cross
between a cabbage and a carrot, because they are of totally
different races, and there is no similarity; but all the
varieties of cabbage will cross with each other, with Brus-
sels sprouts, turnips, and in short with all the others de-
scribed under the genus Brassica. So of corn; ina few
years the early varieties from the North become so inter-
mingled with our own as not to be distinguished. Often
three or four varieties of as many colors may be found on
one ear when several sorts grow near together. The
pollen of one variety is conveyed to the pistil of the
other and the result is a hybrid partaking more or less of
the character of both parents. The difficulty of keeping
seeds pure renders it advisable not to save seeds of two
varieties of any species the same year. |

Seeds should stand until perfectly ripe, and should be
cut or pulled in dry weather, and dried thoroughly before
being threshed. If any moisture then appears, dry them
further and store in paper bags, keeping free from vermin
and damp. Insects can be kept from most seeds by sprink-
ling the paper with spirits of turpentine. Peas and beans
when thoroughly dried should be kept in well stopped
bottles in which a few drops of spirits of turpentine have
been placed. ‘This will destroy the bugs as they hatch.

The following list of the time seeds keep is from Cob-
bett, but with a few exceptions mentioned hereafter, it is
always best to sow new seed:

~

Or
we)

GERMINATION OF SEED.

Years. Years Years.
Artichoke . 3|Cucumber . . . 10| Potatoe Bee
Asparagus . . 4/Dandelion . . 10/Pumpkin . .. 10
Madlmy tri 6c 24 Docker sehr is 1} Purslane a
Basil 2| Endive 4 | Radish 2
Bean . . 2|Fennel 5 | Rampion 2
rs (Kidney) . 1)|Garlick 3|/Rape . . 4
Bee . » 10|Gourd . 10! Rhubarb 1
ae SIOD) ws es 2|Rosemary. . . 38
Brocoli 4|Horse-Radish . ARGS ance} oy ks ifie 3
Burnet . 6 |Hyssop . 6| Ruta-Baga 4
Cabbage 4|Jérusalem Artichoke3 palsy tos 2
Calabash . . . 7|Lavender . 2|Samphire . 3
Calon i. +s « .4| Leek 2|}Savory - : 2
Cale (Sea) 3 | Lettuce : 3|Scorzenera . . 2
Camomile 2 |Mangel Wurzel .10|Shalot . ... 4
Capsicum . . 2|Marjoram. . 2 Skinret |). 0 for sige
Caraway 4 Marigold Sorrel 'c) aes 7
Carrot Li Melonen atras of-20)Spinaehl jc pies mynd
Cauliflower . 4'Mint. .. . . 4{Squash . wtce LO
Celery . 10 | Mustard 41 Tansy .. . a OD
Chervil . 6/Nasturtium . 2!Tarragon . .. 4
Cives 8 |Onion 2 Thyme 2
wor". ; 3|Parsley . - 6 | Tomatum 2
Corn-Salad . 2 | Parsnip 1! Turnip 4
Covunder . . . %|Pea ... 1! Wormwood 2
Cress 2 Pennyroyal 2 i

SOWING AND GERMINATION OF SEED.—The seedsman
is often blamed for selling bad seed, when the fault is
with the planter. That seed may germinate moisture,
air, and a certain degree of warmth, varying with each
variety, are necessary. Light must also be excluded until
the root can derive nourishment from the soil. The first
effect of air, heat, and moisture upon the seed, is to
change its starchy matter into a sugary pulp, the proper
food of the embryo. If at this time the seed be withered
by exposure to heat without sufficient covering, it will
perish. It often happens that seeds are planted in a fresh-
dug soil, and the above change in the properties of the
seed takes place, but the earth not being pressed upon it
the seed dries up and the embryo perishes. Others again
are buried too deeply, and though the seed swells, yet

60 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

sufficient air and warmth are not obtained to give the em-
bryo life. The seed should be just so far covered as to
exclude light, and afford barely moisture sufficient for its
wants. The first thing in sowing is a suitable preparation
of the soil, so that the young roots thrown out may easily
penetrate it. It must be made more or less fine for differ-
ent seeds. Peas and beans do not require the soil to be
as finely pulverized as small seeds. The seeds must also
be firmly fixed in the soil, and pressed by the earth in
every part in order to retain moisture sufficient to encour-
age vegetation, but they should not be so deeply buried
as to be deprived of air, or have their ascending shoots
impeded by too much soil above. In all cases, seeds
should be sown in fresh dug soil, that they may have the
benefit of the moisture therein, but they should never be
put in when the soil is really wet, as the ground will bake
and the seed perish. Moist weather in summer is excel-
lent for putting in seeds, provided the ground is still fria-
ble. Just before a light rain is the best possible time for
sowing turnips and other summer sown crops.

Seeds of all kinds should be sown in drills or rows. In
these they can be planted at any required depth, while if
broad cast, some will be uncovered, and others too
deeply buried in the earth. In drills you can know also
where to look for the young plants; they can have the
soil dug around them, they will thus grow much faster,
and are much more easily thinned and cultivated. When
the seeds are planted, the earth should generally be
pressed upon them with a roller or by treading with the
feet in the case of large seeds, or by smoothing the sur-
face with the back of the spade or by walking over them
on a board for the smaller kinds. Pressing the earth upon
them will retain the moisture about them, and hasten
their vegetation. When they come up keep them free

PROPAGATION. _ 61

from weeds, and thin them as directed under the name of
each plant. .

PROPAGATION BY Division.—Propagation by division,
in the case of bulbs or tubers, is analogous to sowing ©
seeds. A bulb requires the same influences to make it
vegetate, and its manner of growth is much the same, but
for all bulbs the soil should be deeply pulverized, and
most bulbs and tubers require to be planted more deeply
than seeds.

Suckers—Sending up suckers, forming offsets and
throwing out runners, are all natural ways of propagation,
and if all plants produced them, nothing more would be
required than to divide the offspring from the parent, and
replant in any suitable soil. But, in general, those only
produce suckers that send out stray horizontal roots, as
the sucker is in fact a bud from one of these roots which
has pushed its way through the soil and become a stem.
As this stem generally forms fibrous roots of its own above
the point of junction with the parent root, it may be slip-
ped off and planted like a rooted cutting. Its supply ot
nourishment will be diminished when separated from the
parent stem, and its head, therefore, should be cut in to
diminish evaporation. It is well, when the parent plant
is strong, to take up a part of the horizontal root and plant
with the sucker attached.

Suckers of another kind spring from the collar of the
old plant, and are slipped off with any fibrous roots they
may have attached. The great objection to planting out
suckers is, that plants grown from them have a much greater
tendency to throw out suckers, and thereby become ex-
ceedingly annoying in gardens, by encroaching on other
plants, than if propagated by other methods. Raspberries,

62 GARDENING: FOR THE SOUTH.

lilacs, roses, snowballs, and many other plants and shrubs
are readily propagated by suckers. Suckers should never
be used of plants that may be propagated by other
modes. .

Offsets are formed on bulbs only, being young bulbs
attached to the sides of the old ones, and merely require
breaking off and planting in a light, rich soil. Runners
are thrown out by the strawberry, &c. They spring from
the crown or collar of the plant, and throw out roots at
their joints, which may be cut off from the parent nae
and set out in good soil, to make new plants.

Layers are branches bent into the earth, and half cut
through near the bend, the free portion of the wound be-
ing called a tongue (a). This
is kept open by a bit of twig,
or piece of crock. They are
in fact cuttings only partially
separated from parent plants.
The incision is made through
the bark at the base of a bud.
The object of the gardener is
to induce the layer to emit roots into the earth at the
tongue.* With this view, he twists the shoot half round,
so as to injure the wood vessels; he heads it back so that -
only a bud or two appear above ground, and when much
watering is required, he places a handful of silver sand
around the tongued part, then pressing the earth down _
with his foot, so as to secure the layer, he leaves it with-
out further care. The intention of both tongueing and
twisting is to prevent the return of the sap from the layer
into the main stem, while a small portion is allowed to rise
out of the latter into the former. ‘The effect of this opera-

LAYERS.

* See Lindley’s ‘*Theory of Horticulture.”’

GARDENS. 68

tion is to compel the returning sap to organize itself exter-
nally as roots, instead of passing downwards below the
bark as wood; the bending back is to assist this object,
__ by preventing the expenditure of sap in the completion of
leaves. ‘The bud left on the tongue favors the emission
of roots, as a tendency in nearly all plants exists to throw
out roots at the joints, and the silver sand secures the
drainage so necessary to cuttings. When the roots are
thrown out naturally wherever a joint touches the earth,
as in the verbena, they only require pegging down to
make them form new plants. To make them emit roots,
the returning sap may be arrested by taking off a ring of
bark, or a wire twisted tightly around it pinching the
bark, or any other operation that impedes the return of
the sap beyond the parts where roots are desired. The
best season for layering is before the sap begins to rise in
the spring, or from the last of. June, during summer on
wood of the same season’s growth. A good time for roses
is after the first bloom is over. Layered at this time, they
will generally be fit to take up the ensuing winter, but
most plants require twelve months, and some two years,
before they will root. In nurseries the ground is prepared
around each stool by digging and manuring, and the
branches laid down neatly, so as to form a radiated circle
round the stool, with the ends rising all around the circle
about the same height. Where it is difficult to get the
shoot to be layered down to the soil, a portion of the soil
may be raised to the plant as the Chinese gardeners prac-
tice in a pot, the earth in which should be kept steadily
moist. |

Cuttings —A cutting is a part of a plant capable of
emitting roots, and becoming an individual similar to its
parent. ‘T’o effect this, a suitable temperature and degree
of moisture are required. Cuttings in general may be
taken from stem, branch, or root. Outtings of the stems

64 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

and branches differ from layers, in being removed without
root, and they generally require shading, which layers do
not, and occasionally bottom heat, to make them throw
out roots. The branches most suitable for cuttings are
those which grow nearest to the ground, especially those
/which recline upon it, as they have a greater tendency to
throw out roots. The time for making cuttings of hardy
plants is in the autumn, and through the early winter
months, as the frost seldom throws them out with us
Rose cuttings put out the last of October will be ready,

CUTTINGS.

with a little care, to be put out in place early in spring,
having rooted perfectly during the winter. If put in a hot
bed, the plants will have increased in size materially,
growing all winter. A good time for roses is also directly, {
after they have made their spring. flowering, and are be-
ginning to grow. At this time some roses 5 will be upon
the parent plants, and you are sure of getting the desired
varieties. With shading. they grow nearly as well as
those put out in winter. It is from the joints only that
roots can be expected to grow; hence, in making cuttings,
the shoot is divided just below a joint, and it is considered
best to choose a joint between the young wood and that
of the previous season. ‘The cut should be quite smooth,
for if the shoot be bruised, the returning sap will not be
able to reach the joint in sufficient quantity to effect the
desired end. Some plants, like the willow, currant, and
vines, are very easy to strike from cuttings, and will
throw out roots not only from the joints, but from every
part of the stem, and it is not so needful to cut these off

PROPAGATION. 65

at a joint, but they succeed best when properly pre-
pared.
The cutting being taken off just below the joint per-
- fectly smooth, most of the leaves should be cut off close to
the stem with a sharp knife, and a hole being made in the
. soil the cutting should be put in and the earth closely pressed
to its extremity or it will never strike root. The part
/ which is to send out roots must be firmly fixed in the soil
- in the case of seeds, transplanted trees, and layers, and
this necessity exists with equal or greater force in regard
to cuttings. When cuttings are struck in a pot they will
more readily strike if they rest against the-side or bottom
of the pot. Cuttings may be short, containing only one
bud;—when desired to be extremely multiplied, in which
case they should be planted horizontally in moist sand
near the surface and watered frequently and kept under
glass. This is also a good way to plant cuttings of great-
er length. They may be planted obliquely with but a
bud or two above the surface, as is usual with grapes or
inserted perpendicularly as already directed. A new
mode is to insert both ends of the cutting in the soil, bend-
ing the cutting like a bow so that the bud in the centre of
the shoot may just appear above the soil. Cuttings of
plants that strike very readily may be struck in the open
soil without any covering. When struck in pots, it is
customary to fill the pots half full with silver sand or fine
charcoal, to prevent the stalk of the cutting from having
too much moisture around it at the surface. Some plants
liable to be injured by moisture are struck entirely in
sand, as: heaths, &c., but most cuttings do best-with the
lower end in earth and with sand only one or two inches
deep at the top of the pot to keep the stem dry and pre-
vent it from rotting. The cutting when prepared should
be buried to the second or third joint, and two or three

66 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

joints with a few leaves should be left above the soil. A
few leaves to elaborate the sap are an advantage, but only
one or two, or the evaporation will be too great. Cuttings
of delicate plants require covering with a bell glass pressed
closely to the earth to prevent evaporation and keep
a regular degree of moisture about the plants, but some
cuttings thus treated damp off and require the glass to be
taken off and wiped daily. They should of course, be
planted in a shady situation and as long as they look fresh
they are doing well. Cuttings are often set in the soil of
a hot bed or in pots sunk therein, to induce them to take
root. Cuttings of succulent plants, as the cacti require
to be dried for some time after they are made. The prin-
cipal points in making cuttings to be attended to, are to cut
off the shoot at a joint without harming the stem; to
select shoots with well matured buds; to fix the end which
is to send out roots firmly in the soil; to keep up an equable
degree of heat and moisture ; to cut off part of the leaves
and shade the whole to prevent evaporation without ex-
cluding light, of which a portion is needed to stimulate the
cutting into growth; to keep the soil moist but not too
damp; and it is well to transplant them into small pots,
supplied with water regularly and moderately as soon as
they begin to grow. Cuttings of slow-growing plants are
those most liable to fail.

Slips are cuttings made from the shoots which spring
from the root and collar of the plant or little branches
slipped off with a portion of the root and stem attached,
and need no preparation except cutting of the portion of bark
smooth and close to the shoot. ‘They are treated like
cuttings. Nearly all our fruit trees in this climate succeed
extremely well, propagated from cuttings. They strike
as readily asroses. The most successful place for striking
cuttings is in. the sandy bottom soil by the side of our

BUDDING. 67

small streams. The soil is often just what is required by
cuttings, and the supply of moisture very equal, so that
camellias, cape jasmines and many plants rather difficult
to strike, take very readily in such a situation.

Budding is the art of making a bud unite to the
stem or branch of another tree independently of its parent.
It is a cutting with a single eye inserted in another tree
called a stock, instead of in the ground. Budding may
take place at any time after the buds of the new wood are
sufficiently matured. These must be perfectly developed,
which is seldom the case, until the shoot has temporarily
ceased to lengthen which is indicated by the perfect for-
mation of the terminal bud. If the buds are desired very
early their maturity may be hastened by pinching the tops
of the shoots. Buds in this climate are inserted at any
time when the bark will rise from June to October. Those
put in early will make a fine growth before autumn in
favorable seasons. A very necessary condition to success-
ful budding is that the bark rise freely from the stock and
this must be in a thrifty, growing state, as when pushing
into new growth a day or two aftera fine rain. If the
weather is too cold or the soil too dry, the bark will not
rise. Such treesas makes their growth mostly early in
the season, must be budded before they cease to grow.
The young shoots when in a proper state, are cut below
the lowest plump bud. If to be budded immediately, all
the leaf is cut off, except a very small portion where it
joins the stem which with the leaf stem is left for con-
venience of inserting, and in order to attract the sap into the
buds. If the buds are to be preserved any time, the
whole leaf with half of the leaf stem is removed to prevent
evaporation. If this is done as soon as they are cut, they
may be preserved several days in a tin box, close covered
and kept cool, if the buds are wrapped in a cloth slightly

68 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

dampened, when put in the box. In general the buds take
much more kindly when a bit of the leaf is left on at the
insertion. ;

The strings used for tying are taken from bass-mats,
' which should be wet until perfectly pliable, before use.
Better strings are made of white woollen yarn, as they
‘are more elastic, and the color reflects the heat. The
pruning and budding knives are the only implements
required for the operation. The condition of the budding-
knife is of importance to success. It should be made thin,
and the edge kept perfectly smooth and keen. A figure
of it is given in the list of instruments. ee

a Longitudinal incision. -
b Transverse incision.

c Prepared bud.

d Bud inserted and bred.

Having the implements, stocks, and buds in the proper
condition, take the shoot in the left hand, and the budding-
knife in the right. Insert the edge of the knife in the
shoot, half an inch above the bud to be taken off. The
bud is taken off with a drawing cut, parallel with the shoot,

BUDDING, 69

removing the bark and the bud attached, with a slight por-
tion of the wood beneath the bud, half an inch above, and
three-fourths of an inch below. The English remove this
slight portion of the wood, taking care not to injure the
root of the bud; but it does not succeed so well in this
climate as if a small portion of wood be left directly under
the bud. Select, then, a small portion of the stock free
from branches, and make two cuts through the bark, one
across the end of the other, in the shape of a T, as in the
figure. Then raise the bark on the two edges of the per-
pendicular cut with the smooth ivory haft of the budding-
knife ; insert the bud gently beneath the parts raised ; cut
off the top of the bark attached to the bud square, that it
may fit the cut across the stock; then wind the bass
pretty tightly about the stock; cover every part of the
incision, except the bud and leaf-stalk attached, which
should remain uncovered. Do not tie it so tightly as to
cut into the bark, but so as to exert upon it a moderate
pressure. The bud should always be put in the north
side of the stock, when practicable, and when not, a little
paper cap may be tied to the stock projecting over the
bud, so as to admit the light, but exclude the direct rays
of the sun. ‘The success of the operation depends on its
being performed rapidly, and with fresh, healthy buds;
clean, smooth cuts; the bark rising cleanly and freely
from the wood;. the exact fit of the bud to the incision,
and close, secure tying, to exclude the air and water. If
the operation is performed in moist weather, and the bark
of the bud be joined closely to the wood of the stock, suc-
cess is almost certain. If the stocks are in a proper state,
the upper edges only of the slit need be raised with the
haft, and the bud being gently pushed to its place, will
raise the bark smoothly before it, and be more firm than
if the bark had been entirely raised with the haft.

70 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

This is an operation requiring much exactness, and the
point where a beginner will most likely fail, is in the
proper removal of the bud. As soon as the bud begins te
grow, the ligature may be loosened, and should be entirely
removed when it begins to cut into the bark. Two er
three days after budding, the stock may be shortened to
within ten or twelve inches of the bud, and all shoots must
be rubbed off as they appear, except the inserted bud.
When this has grown three or four inches, the stock is cut
off again near the budded shoot. In September budding,
this is delayed until spring. Budding is the easiest method
of propagating apples, pears, and most other fruit-trees.
In the case of peaches it is almost universally applied, and
also with those roses that will not succeed readily from
cuttings. Budding and grafting can be performed only
upon plants of the same, or nearly related species. Thus
a peach can be budded on a plum, as they are both stone
fruits, and belong to the same natural group of plants, but
no art could make the peach flourish on the apple or pear
as a stock.

GRAFTING.—This differs from budding in its being the
transfer of a shoot, with several buds upon it, from one
tree to another, instead of merely employing a single bud.
It is performed by bringing portions of two growing shoots
together, so that the liber vr soft wood of the two may
unite together. The shoot to be transferred is called the
scion, and the tree which is to receive it is called the
stock. The stocks are of all ages and sizes, but they must
be sound and healthy. The scions employed are gen-
erally shoots of the preceding year’s growth, which may
be cut at any time after the leaves fall, and may be buried
in a dry soil, with the upper extremities slightly project-
ing on the north of a wall. Those of healthy, well-ripened,

GRAFTING WAX. 71

close-jointed wood, should always be cnosen. Where sci-
‘ons are to be sent to a distance, those of rather large size
and close joints should be selected, enveloped in a little
thin paper slightly dampened, and the whole covered
tightly with oiled silk. In this way, they will go a thou-
sand miles in perfect safety. The but and extremities of
scions should both be rejected. The tools required are, a
grafting-knife, saw, and chisel; but, for whip-grafting, the
knife only is employed. ‘Two kinds should be used, one
to prune and pare the stock, and the other to prepare the
graft. i

Grafting Wazx—A composition of very good quality is
made of four parts rosin, two of beeswax, and one of tal-
low. Melt it all together, turn it into cold water, and work
and pull it thoroughly until it turns whitish ; just as child-
ren do in making molasses candy. The stiffness of the
wax is increased or diminished by employing less or more
of tallow. In cold weather keep the composition in warm
water, and in warm, in cold water; and, in putting it on,
the hands must be slightly greased, to keep it from stick-
ing to them. In applying it, be careful to cover the scion
on the sides and cleft in the stock, forming a cap over the
top, and pressed closely and tightly around the graft, so as
to cover every crack, and carefully to exclude the air and
water. Cloth, saturated in a composition made a little
softer by a greater addition of tallow and beeswax, is more
convenient than the wax itself. ‘Take any thin, half-worn
calico or muslin, tear it into narrow strips, roll them
loosely into small balls, and soak them in the hot compo-
sition until every pore is filled. When wished for use,
it is unwound from the balls, and torn into smaller strips,
of the proper length and breadth required by the size of
the stock, and winding it two or three times around the

72 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

stock and graft, secures it perfectly. This is the most
convenient way of applying wax.

Modes and Time of Grafting—The modes of grafting
most usually practised are whip and cleft grafting, and
they are practised on the stem and branches, or the roots
of trees. Root-grafting can be performed at any time in
this climate, from December to March inclusive, or from
the fall of the leaf until the buds begin to open. Stone-
fruits of all kinds must be grafted earlier than apples,
pears, &c., as the sap, in the case of stone-fruits, seems to
lose all agglutinating properties after its first fow. But
the best time for grafting, except in the root, where the
scion will be protected by the earth covering it, is while
the buds are swelling in the spring. If put in before that
time, the alternate freezing and thawing to which they are
exposed often destroys the vitality of the graft. February
is an excellent time for all stone-fruits; while apples, pears,
&c., may be grafted until they blossom, if the scions are
kept perfectly fresh, without growth. Grafting the pear
succeeds perfectly well just before the second growth,
early in August, if the sap is thrown into the
graft, by rubbing off the other shoots as they
appear.

Whip, or Splice Grafting—(see figure) —This
mode is applicable to all small stocks, and suc-
ceeds best where the scion and stock are exactly
the same size. Both stock and scion are cut off
with a sloping cut about an inch and a half long
on each, so as to match precisely, if of the same
size; or, if not, at least on one side. A tongue
War Grarp. 18 then made by slitting the scion upward, and

ING. the stock downward, which is raised on each
and fitted into the slit of the other—holding the scion

GRAFTING. 73

firmly in its place, bind it closely with the cloth cov-
ered with the composition. It is the neatest, most ex-
expeditious, and most successful mode of grafting, where
the stocks are of the proper size. Stocks, three-fourths
of an inch in diameter, or even an inch, may be grafted
in this way, but for inch stocks cleft grafting is prefer-
able.

Cleft Grafting is the more common mode. It may
be practised on large or small stocks, but for the
latter whip-grafting only should be employed.
The top of the stock is cut off carefully with a
fine saw, and pared smoothly with a sharp knife.
The stock is then split with the grafting-knife,
and held open with the chisel of the same. A
common knife will answer for splitting, and the
cust Grav, SPlit may be kept open for insertion with a wood-

wc. en wedge or a large nail of which the point has
been ground down toawedge shape. Sharpen the scion one
and a-half inches long, more or less, according to its size and
that of the split in the stock, cutting the lower part into a
smooth wedge. The exterior side of the scion when sharp-
ened should be slightly thicker than the other, that it may
be sure to make a close fit there. Let the scion have
two or more buds, of which one should be on the wedge
and inserted just below the top of the stock. This often
grows when the others fail. The main point is that.
the inside bark of the scion and that of the stock should
exactly correspond at least in one place. To effect
this, it is usual to set the scion so that its extremity
falls a little without the line made by the continuation
of the stock on the side in which it is inserted. One
or two scions are set in the stock according to its size;
the wedge is then withdrawn, and the whole carefully

4.

74 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

covered with the composition so as to exelude all air and -
moisture.

Root Grafting—Both these modes are successfully ap-
plied in root grafting. The best stocks for the purpose
are seedlings which are cut off at the collar and grafts in-
serted in one or the other of these modes, according to
the size of the stock. If such stocks cannot be got, roots
of thrifty trees may be employed, but are more apt to
produce diseased trees. This can be performed at any
leisure time during the winter, and they should be set out
at once and covered about an inchabove the point of junc-
tion with soil. Many do not apply any composition in
root grafting, and just cover the wound with soil; but the
loss is more than enough to render the use of the wax adyi-
sable. Clay instead of wax is used in all kinds of graft-
ing, but the wax is much the best.

In grafting, as in budding, always have sharp instru-
ments; make the cuts clean and smooth; bring the inner
bark of stock and scion in close contact, by a permanent
pressure of the stock upon its scion; the top of the scion
should be cut off next to a bud, and have a bud just be-
neath the shoulder where it unites with the stock; every
portion of the wound should be perfectly covered with
the composition, and the stock and scion must correspond,
not only in their nature, but in their habits of growth.

In-arching or Grafting by approach.—This mode is prac-
tised with Camellias and Magnolias. A branchis bent and
partly cut through, and the heel, thus formed is slipped
into a slit made downward in the stock to receive it; the
parts are then made to meet as exactly as possible, and
are bound with bass strings, and covered with grafting
clay, or with the composition. In five or six months the
union is complete, and the in-arched plant may be separated
from its parent, which is done with a sharp knife so as to

PRUNING. 715

Jeave a clean cut. The head of the stock, if not removed
before, is then cut away, and the plant is ready for removal.

The advantages of grafting and budding are the rapidity
with which a valuable kind which will not grow from cut-
tings may be propagated: trees of worthless fruit may be
changed into more valuable varieties, seedlings can be
brought into early bearing, foreign tender. fruits may be
rendered hardier on hardy native stocks, a kind of fruit
may be grown in a soil not congenial to it, as the pear by
grafting on the quince. Several varieties of fruit may be
grown upon the same tree; and, finally, by grafting on
dwarf-growing stocks the trees may be so dwarfed as to
afford many varieties ripening in succession within the
limits of a small garden. —

Prunine.—This important operation is generally per-
formed more at random than any other in gardening. Not
even a twig should be removed from a tree without some
definite object This is a work above all others requiring
care, knowledge, and judgment, and should never be left
to ignorant operators. Hither prune your trees and plants
yourself, or stand by and direct the manner in which it is to
be done. “ The time to prune,” says an experienced culti-
vator, “is when your knife is sharp.” Pruning may take
place at any time, but is most conveniently performed
while the leaves are off. Our frosts are not so severe as
to often injure the terminal bud. A good time for the
peach is when the buds begin to swell. Grapes may be
pruned any time during the winter months. If delayed
later they are apt to bleed excessively. Besides the gene-
ral winter pruning, shoots may be removed at any time, if
the tree seem to be throwing its strength in a wrong direc-
‘tion. This is better accomplished by disbudding, that is,

removing those buds which would produce unnecessary

76 GARDENING FOR THE SUUTH.

shoots, or pinching the extremities of those shoots which
are making.too much wood.

The implements required in pruning are the common
pruning knife, a small saw with very fine teeth, and a pair
of pruning-shears with a sliding joint to make a draw cut,
in order to divide the branch witha clean, smooth cut, and .
not to bruise it on the side next the plant.

When a branch is pruned it should be generally cut as
near a bud as may be without injury to the bud, or to
speak more definitely, not more in length than the branch
is thick should be left beyond the bud. The cut should
slope downward from the bud, to prevent the water from
lodging in the angle, and that the sun and air may excite
the bark to cover the wound.

If a long piece of branch or snag be left beyond the
bud, it withers and decays, seriously injuring, not only
the branch to which it is attached, but the general health
of the tree.

The great art is to make a clean smooth cut, so as to
leave the bark in a healthy state to cover the wound, and
to prune so near a bud as to leave no dead wood. Hence,
if the branch be removed with the saw, the cut must
be smoothed over with the knife. In cutting off large
branches the wound should be covered with grafting wax,
or brushed over’ with Mr. Downing’s preparation of shellac
dissolved in alcohol, in order to exclude the air. Pruning
is most commonly intended either to amprove the form of
the tree by directing the growth from one part to another,
to renew the growth of stunted trees, to duce or diminish
fruitfulness, to remove diseased or decaying branches, and in
cases of transplanting te proportion the head to the roots.

In pruning to improve the form of the tree, as in pleasure
grounds, the object is to preserve its natural shape, so that
it may be an agreeable object on the lawn, or when com-

PRUNING. Ti

bined with others in a group. Lawn trees should never
have the stems trimmed up to bare poles, but the branches
should proceed from near the ground, so that when covered
with foliage they will nearly sweep the ground, and be
one mass of green from the base to the top. So in all
kinds of fruit-trees the branches should be allowed to pro- |
ceed from the trunk within a foot of the ground. Such
trunks are screened from our burning sun, and are much
more healthy and fruitful than those with naked stems
five or six feet high. Every tree growing naturally has
its trunk sheltered from the sun. If it grow in the open
ground, this is accomplished by its own branches, while in
the forest all the trunks are sheltered by the canopy of
foliage above. If one part of the tree is disposed to out-
grow another, and thus destroy the balance, it may be
shortened in winter, and the shoots pinched off the next
summer, until the sap is thrown in the right direction
into weaker branches that were left entire, and the balance
isrestored. Whenitis desired that new shoots of a branch
should take an upright direction, prune to an inside bud.
If you wish an open spreading top, prune to an outside
bud of the branch. To make a stem grow straighter in
cutting back young trees, choose the leader on opposite
sides each year, and it will keep a straight line.

When a tree has stopped growing, remaining stationary,
it often happens that if the tree is cut back in winter to a
few buds, the whole force of the sap being made to act on
these few buds, vigorous young shoots will be produced,
and these ‘sending down new woody matter to the stem,
new roots are formed, and the whole tree is renewed.

Pruning to reduce or diminish fruitfulness— Every- ,
thing that is favorable to rapid, vigorous growth is gener-
ally unfavorable to the immediate production of fruit.
Hence, pruning to induce fruitfulness is performed after

78 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

vegetation has commenced. If a tree be severely pruned
immediately after its leaves have put forth, it is so checked
as to be unable to make a vigorous growth the same

_ season, and the circulation of the sap is impeded, and the
young shoots that would have made wood branches, had

the growth been unchecked, will become fruit spurs.
Pinching the extremities is however the usual mode of
pruning, to induce fruitfulness. The same result is pro-
duced by pruning the roots, which also lessens the dimen-
sion of the trees. |

Pruning at transplanting —At this time all bruised
and broken roots and branches should be removed. When
trees are taken from the ground, a greater or less portion
of the roots are destroyed or injured, and the natural
balance between the root and top is destroyed, and the tree
in this condition will either die or make a slow growth.
In England, the climate is so moist, that trees may be re-
moved and leave nearly all the branches as they were;

but under the hot suns and strong winds of this climate a

vigorous shortening in is requisite. Trees must be pruned

much more closely here at the period of transplanting

than even at the north. It matters very little how closely
you prune the top of the trees; only have good roots and
a single season’s growth will restore the balance. Just
after transplanting some of my own trees, which I had

pruned sufficiently, as I thought, a cow got in while the

fence was repairing, and browsed off several, eating all
the young shoots. The wounds were carefully cut over
immediately down to a bud, and the loosened roots fixed
firmly in the soil. The trees, the ensuing summer made

_,a better average growth than those which were not so
, closely shortened. Do not leave more than one or two

buds to a branch of the previous year’s growth if the tree
is of much size at the time of transplanting.

[/
|

‘

PRUNING, - (8

The general principles of pruning are consisely ex

pressed by M. Dubreuil, as follows:

1. The vigor of a tree subjected to pruning, depends
in a great measure on the equal distribution of sap in all
itsbranches. That this equal distribution may take place—

Prune the branches of the most vigorous parts very short,

and those of the weak parts long. The feeble parts being —

pruned long, present a great number of buds and a large
surface of leaves, which attract the sap, and produce vigor-
ous growth; while the vigorous parts being pruned short
and the surface of leaves diminished, growth in those parts
is also diminished.

| Leave a large quantity of fruit on the strong part and

‘emove the whole or the greater part from the feeble.

Il the sap which arrives in the strong part will be

/appropriated by. the fruit, and the wood there will make
/ Tittle growth, while the feeble parts being deprived of
fruit, the sap will be appropriated by the growing parts
and they will increase in size and strength.
. Bend the strong parts and keep the weak erect. ‘The
more erect the branches are the greater will be the flow
of sap and consequent growth; lence, the balance may
be restored by bending down those disposed to make too
much growth.

Remove from the vigorous parts the superfluous shoots
as early in the season as possible, and from the feeble
parts as late as possible. 'The fewer the young shoots are
in number the fewer the leaves, and the less the sap is at-
tracted there ; but leaving these standing on the feeble parts,
these leaves attract the sap and induce vigorous growth.
Pinch carly the soft extremities of the shoots on the
vigorous parts, and as late as possible on the feeble parts,
excepting always any shoots which may be too vigorous
for their position. By this practice the flow of sap to that

80 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

point is checked and turned to the growing points that
have not been pinched.

In training, lay in the strong shoots on the trellis early
and leave the jeeble parts loose as long as possible. Laying
in the strong shoots obstructs in them the circulation and
favors the weak parts which are at liberty. Giving also the
feeble parts the benefit of the light in training, and confining
the strong parts more in the shade, restores a balance.

2. The sap acts with greater force and produces more
vigorous growth on a branch short pruned than on one
long pruned. The whole sap of the branch acting on
two buds must produce greater development of wood
on them than if divided among fifteen or twenty. Hence,
to produce wood branches, we prune short, or if fruit
branches we prune long, because slender and feeble shoots
are more disposed to fruit. Hence, also trees that are en-
feebled by over-bearing should for a year or two be pruned
short.

The sap tending always to the extremities of the shoots
causes the terminal bud to push with greater vigor than
the laterals——-When we wish a prolongation of a stem,
we should prune to a vigorous wood bud, and leave
no production that can interfere with the action of the
sap on it.

4. The more the sap is obstructed in its circulation, the
more likely it will be to produce fruit buds. Sap cireu-
lating slowly is subjected to a more complete elaboration
in the tissues of the tree, and becomes better adapted to
form fruit buds. If we wish a branch to bear fruit, we
can obstruct the circulation of the sap by bending or
making incisions around the branch, or if wished to ehange
a fruit into a wood-branch, raise it into a vertical position
and prune it to two or three buds on which we concentrate
the action of the sap and induce them to grow vigorously. *

TRAINING, 81

5. The leaves serve to prepare the sap absorbed by the roots
for the nourishment of the tree and aid in the formation
of buds on the shoots. All trees therefore deprived of
their leaves, are liable to perish. Hence, the leaves
should never be removed from a tree under the pre-
text of aiding the growth, or ripening the fruit, as
deprived of leaves trees cannot grow, neither can their
fruit mature. ;

6. When the buds of any shoot or branch do not
develop before the age of two years, they can he
forced into activity only by a very close pruning and
in some cases, as the peach, even this will fail. Hence
the main branches should be trimmed so as to secure a
development of their successive sections, and so shortened
in as not to allow the production of long naked stems,
leaving the interior of the tree bare of shoots, and con-
sequently unproductive. In order to induce trees to
grow in any particular form it is not so much labor as
continued attention that is required. A thorough pruning
once a year will not produce the desired effect, but a
little attention two or three times a week during the
growing season, will be sufficient to examine every shoot
in an acre of garden trees, and the eye is very soon trained
so as to detect at a glance the shoots that require attention.

For fuller information on this subject, and indeed upon
every one connected with the management of trees, the
very best manual is Barry’s Fruit Garden, from which a
portion of the above is condensed.

Traintnc—The principal objects of training are to
render plants more productive of fruits and flowers than
if left to grow voluntary, also to form screens of various
running plants to keep any unsightly object from view.
he points to be attended to, are to entirely cover the

4*

82 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

wall or trellis, bending the branches backwards and for-
wards so as to form numerous deposits of returning sap,
and the full exposure of the fruit-bearing branches to the
sun and air. The long shoots are shortened to make them
throw out side branches, with which the trellis is covered,
without permitting them to cross each other. Training
flowers should be regulated by a knowledge of their
habits of growth. It consists principally in checking over-
luxuriance of growth and tying them to stakes or frames.
Special directions for training the grape and pear, &c.,
will be given hereafter.

TRANSPLANTING.—In transplanting the main points to
be regarded are, care in taking up the plant so as to avoid
injuring, the spongeoles of the roots; planting firmly, so as
to enable the plant to take a secure hold of the soil;
reducing the top in order to prevent evaporation, and to
restore the balance between it and the root ; shading to
prevent the evaporation from the leaves being greater
than the plant can support, and watering that it may be
abundantly supplied with food in its new abode, and last
by performing the operation in moist weather, and with

as little delay as possible.

The first thing is to avoid injury to the roots; a little
care here will often save a year’s growth in atree. The
roots are of two kinds, the main roots which support
the plant in the soil, and the small fibrous roots that
supply it with nourishment. The fibres terminate in small
pores of great delicacy which act as little sponges in im-
bibing moisture for the use of the plant. These spongeoles
supply the plant with food, and if injured or broken off
the plant must supply itself with others, or perish for
want of nourishment. These fibrous roots are the ones
most likely to be destroyed o7 injured by transplanting, and.

WATERING. 83

if so, the power of expansion and contraction possessed by
the fibres is either entirely lost or the circulation is weakly
and imperfectly carried on through a diseased organ.
When a plant therefore is transplanted, the roots must be
carefully examined and all the injured roots should be
eut off before it is re-set, in order to force the plant to
throw out new fibres.

With deciduous plants, especially trees and shrubs, it is
best to transplant when the leaves have fallen, that they
may not suffer from the effects of evaporation. November
and December are the best times for transplanting all
hardy plants, as even evergreens at that period require
less moisture and the branches are torpid, while the roots
continue active, and fresh ones are formed during the
winter to take the place of those injured by transplanting.
Half-hardy and tender plants should not be taken up
until the danger of heavy frost has passed, for when just
removed they are much more susceptible to injury during
severe weather.

Shading is necessary in summer transplanting, if the
piant retains its leaves, unless in damp weather. This is
to diminish the evaporation, and the removal of a large
portion of its leaves is also advisable for the same pur-
pose. 7

Watering is quite as obviously necessary in order to
supply the spongeoles with an abundance of food, that
the increased quantity imbibed by each may, in some
degree, supply their diminished number. A single copious
watering is better than more.

As a general rule in transplanting, never bury the collar
of the root. Some exceptions exist, as cabbages, balsams,
and some other annuals, which will throw out roots above
the collar, and in pears on the quince, which must be set
ubove the place where grafted. In transplanting trees,

84 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

the hole should be made large enough to receive the
roots at full length. If a ball of earth can be retained so
much the better, as it will both protect the roots and steady
the tree. The roots should be as little exposed as possi-
ble; they should rest upon a bed of fine soil, and be
covered with the same material. Two persons are needed.
in this operation, one to hold the tree, very gently shaking
it while the other is sprinkling with his spade the fine
earth about the roots. Care should be taken to have the
roots set firmly in the ground, and to let the earth pene-
trate and fill all their insterstices. When it is to be fixed
with water, after a little earth is thrown over the roots,
water is applied by pouring it from the open spout of a
watering pot, heldas high as a man can reach; more earth
is then thrown in and the water again applied. This sets
the tree firm without staking or treading the earth, as
usually done. Others spread the roots carefully and fill in
as above, but make the earth firm by treading the soil
closely about the roots as soon as they are sufficiently cov-
ered. If the roots are made firm either with water or
treading, and a proper proportion of the top taken off, the
tree will hardly require staking. Formerly in transplant-
ing trees, they were frequently reduced to bare poles, but -
now the tendency is to leave on too much top, especially
with those who derive their ideas from standard English
authors. In their moist climate, but very little of the top
requires removal, but with us the evaporation is so great
that a pretty severe pruning is required to insure success.
Besides, if the tree is thus pruned, you have its subsequent
growth under control, and can train it in any shape you —
like. Where trees have been long out of the ground, it is
well to cover them entirely with earth a few days before
replanting. This will often restore freshness after they
begin to shrivel.. Prune them very closely, taking off all

MULCHING. ; 85

dead roots, and then re-set them, and they will often suc-
ceed when apparently almost hopelessly dead.

In transplanting herbaceous plants, as annuals, an even-
ing, or a damp cloudy day, or just before a shower, is the
proper time for the operation. The earth should be first
well dug to afford a moist situation in which the delicate
fibres may quickly establish themselves. Do not trans-
_ plant immediately after a heavy rain, as the soil, if moved
while wet, will form a crust about the plant. This opera-
tion should always be performed in the case of choice
young plants with the trowel, removing with them a little
ball of earth, and the plant will hardly show its change of
situation by any check in its growth. Larger plants may
be removed in the same way with the spade.

Plants that are not removed with a ball, are benefited
by grouting. Mix up a quantity of rich loam in water to
a semi-fluid state, in which insert the roots. Plants which
are readily transplanted, as the cabbage, tomato, &c., may
have a hole made with a dibble, and the plant inserted,
when the dibble is again inserted near the stem, and the
earth pushed up close to the root. ‘T'ap-rooted plants are
transplanted with great difficulty, and as they cannot be
taken up with a ball, should always be grouted before they
are replanted. Sweet potato slips, cabbage plants, &c.,
may be set out even in dry weather, in freshly moved soil,
by making a hole in the earth, setting the plants erect
therein, and washing in the earth with water (from the
spout of a water-pot) about the roots, and covering them
at the surface with dry soil to retain the moisture and
keep the soil from baking, This should be done in the

evening.

Muotcuine.—Mulcking is placing mulch or moist litter, —
of various kinds, upon the surface of the soil over the

86 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

roots of newly-planted trees and shrubs. A little earth
should be thrown on the mulch, to keep it in its place,
and is more neat than exposing it on the surface. Mulch-
ing prevents moisture from evaporating, and it also pre-
vents frost from penetrating to the roots. Mulching should
also be applied to those herbaceous plants that are impa-
tient of heat about the roots. Strawberries thinly mulched,
the crown being uncovered, are much more productive,
and continue longer in bearing. Irish potatoes produce
more abundantly, and are of better quality. English peas
are thus kept much longer in bearing, and rhubarb and
other plants, requiring a cool soil, can be more readily
raised. Fruit trees, by having their roots mulched, are
kept in better health and vigor. Mulching not only wards
off drought, but, in this way, by keeping the ground moist,
and by the decay of the mulching substance, a good deal
of food is conveyed to the plants. Some authors, indeed,
think also that ground will become continually richer by
being shaded. A supply of small, fibrous roots are thrown
out at the surface by mulched plants, and thus is prevented
the formation of tap-roots, which are inimical to the pro-
duction of blossom-buds. But the great benefit of mulch-
ing is that a steady permanency of moisture is retained,
in spite of adverse circumstances, and without stagnation.
In general, the coat of litter for mulching must be thin,
that the rain may not be prevented from reaching the
roots of plants.

WATERING.—Watering is a very essential branch of
culture. Seed cannot vegetate, and plants cannot grow,
without water. All the substances which the plant derives
from the soil, as food, enter into its circulation dissolved in
water; and even the spongeoles themselves, unless kept
moist, lose their power of absorption.

IRRIGATION, .. oF

J.J Lhomas remarks: “From repeated experiments,
we are mduced to draw the conclusion that, next to ma-
nure, nothing is more important in vegetable growth, in
any cases, than irrigation. Practical gardeners, in
countries more moist than our own, regard it as indis-
pensable, and a large share of their success depends upon
copious watering.”

Some interesting cases which have recently occurred
may be worth stating. ‘Two rows of raspberries stand on
ground in every respect alike; but one receives the drip
of the wood-house, and the other does not. The watered
row is fully four times as large as the other. Again, the
berries on the bushes of the Fastolf and Franconia rasp-
berries were at least twice as large when the soil was
kept well moistened as afterward, when allowed to be-
come dry. A repetition of watering again doubled the
size. Again, a near neighbor, who cultivates strawberries
for market, and who uses a water-cart for irrigating the
rows, raised at the rate of 120 bushels per acre of good
fruit on common soil by this means, and he noticed, where
the cart was left standing over night, so that the water
dripped gradually from it for some hours upon a portion of
the plants, the fruit had grown to double the size the rest in
twenty-four hours. In watering, several points are to be
attended to. One is (except while or after transplanting),
never saturate the soil. Frequent sprinklings are more
beneficial. The water should be of the temperature of the
atmosphere, or it will chill the ground and the plants.
Water that has stood in the sun all day is best for water-
ing plants in the open air, and in a green-house it should
be kept standing until the chill is removed. Do not pour
water down close to the stem and collar of the plant, as it
will be likely to injure and rot that vital part; apply it

88 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

rather to the extremities of the roots, more or less near to
the stem, according to the size and nature of the plant.

The quantity of water depends upon the nature of the
plant and its stage of growth. In spring, while in a grow-
ing state, or while the plant is in flower, or the fruit is
swelling, the plant requires an abundance of water. But
when the fruit is ripening, and in winter, when the plant
is at rest, very little is required, and much is injurious.
Waiter is necessary to make seeds germinate; but much is
very injurious to plants just coming up, as it unsettles.
their roots, and even washes them away. After the
second pair of leaves have opened, water may be given
sparingly. As it begins to grow more vigorously, more
will be required. Plants with large, broad leaves, like
tobacco, require more water than those with small pinnate
leaves like the acacia. Plants, also, in a strong light,

more than those growing in the shade.
The best tzme for watering plants, generally, is the even-
ing. This gives them all night to refresh themselves.

It does no good to water in the heat of the day, as the
heated atmosphere drinks up the moisture before the plant
can imbibe it; but, if plants are watered in the evening,
they can drink their fill in the cool of the night. When
small seeds are sown, they should be sprinkled, in dry
weather, with water from a fine rosed water-pot ; and, if in
small patches, may be shaded by a mat until they come up.

If the ground has become very dry and hard, it should
be loosened before the water is applied, or it will not pen-
etrate, to be of any service to the plant. Water, early in
spring and in autumn, may be given in the morning, or it
might chill the plants, if the night should be cold; so in
the green-house, during winter, water should be given in
the morning. Watering the leaves when the sun shines

STIRRING THE SOIL. 89

will make them blister and become covered with brown
spots, wherever the water touches. If watering a plant
has been once commenced, keep on until the necessity
ceases, or more injury than good will result. The use of
the hoe should always follow the water-pot, as soon as the
ground gets dry.

The best water to use in the garden is rain-water caught
in open cisterns. It abounds in ammonia and fertilizing
gases. If spring or well-water must be used, a very little
guano, say one pound (or two pounds of fowl-manure) to
twenty gallons of water, will give it proper fertilizing
properties. Let it remain covered in the sun one or two
days before use. ,

CULTIVATION WITH THE Hor.—lIf the ground be not of-
ten moved, it becomes so hard that the roots cannot penetrate
it to get their proper food. The rains flow off the surface,
without sinking into and moistening the soil, and the bene-
ficial influence of the atmosphere is excluded. A soil well
hoed has a new surface continually ready to absorb the
fertilizing gases of the atmosphere, and the manures ap-
plied are more thoroughly intermingled.

“Tf i had to preach a sermon on horticulture,” says
Downing, “I should take this for my text: Stir the soil.”
The surface of the soil cannot be too frequently stirred.
As soon as the plants are well above ground, they should
be thinned out so as not to interfere with each other’s
growth; say to an inch in the drills. At the same time,
the soil may be loosened a little about them, so as to break
any crust that may have formed, without injury to the
young plants, and the weeds may be removed.

A little later, stir the soil more deeply with a narrow
hoe, taking care not to cover the young plants. Every
wéed should be cut down or pulled up, no matter how

90 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

small. As the plants grow larger, the hoe may be used
more fearlessly, and thinning should also take place, from
time to time, as the danger diminishes of their being de-
stroyed by insects. It is not enough to keep the weeds
down; digging deeply among the plants admits the atmos-
‘phere, with it fertilizing gases, and actually manures the
young plants. Many persons do not like to use the hoe
in diy weather, for fear the plants will suffer for want of
moisture. But if the earth be kept loose, and in fine tilth,
the air that enters into its pores will leave a precious de-
posit of moisture in the soil. Notice a plat of fresh dug
ground, some dewy morning during a drought, how moist
is the surface, and see how hard and dry is the unstirred
plot near by! The air has watered the fresh dug soil
more effectually than you could do; and moisture, too,
comes up by capillary attraction from the subsoil, and
abundantly, too, if the ground was deeply trenched. “A
man will raise more moisture,” says Cobbett, “ with the
hoe and spade in a day, than he can pour on the earth out
of a watering-pot inamonth.”” The deposit of moisture on
the outside of a pitcher of cold water every one has no-
ticed. As the air in contact with the cold surface of the
pitcher is robbed of its moisture, which is condensed upon
the surface of the pitcher, so the fresh stirred earth con-
denses upon its surface the moisture of the air, and con-
veys it to the roots of the thirsty plants. If the ground
be suffered to become close and compact, the cool surface
exposed to the air for the reception of moisture is smaller,
and what is deposited does not enter into the earth far
enough to be appropriated; but if the soil be loose and
porous, the air enters more deeply, and deposits its moist-
ure beneath the surface. Almost any soil in which a seed
may be made to germinate will, by continual hoeing, pro-

PROTECTION FROM FROST. 91

duce acrop. Do not be afraid of cutting off the roots of
your plants and killing them by digging. In very dry
weather you need hoe but one side of your plants the same _
day. For every fibre you cut off, two fresh ones will |
start, and the next day or two after you may hoe the
other side of the row with safety.

The ground should be hoed deeply; corn, unless it is
ploughed between, will produce hardly anything, and the
great secret of raising good cabbage is deep digging be-
| tween them, while the dewis on. “The best protection,”
'. says Cobbett, “against frequent droughts is frequent
digging.” Above all, cut up every weed that appears.
«One year’s seeding makes seven years’ weeding.” The
only use of weeds is to make a necessity of tilling the
ground more frequently. Weeds will come up in spite of
all our care, but much can be done to prevent them.
Their seeds are brought in with the manure. On this
account guano is preferable to any other application, as it
is perfectly clear of them. They are brought in also by
_ the wind, and they are dug up from beneath and start
into vegetation at once, though they have been torpid for
years. As soon as one appears above the ground, dig it
up at once. If they have already gone to seed, mix the
salt and lime mixture with them, and their vegetating
power will be destroyed, and these robbers of the soil con-
verted into valuable fertilizers.

PROTECTION FROM Frost.—Camellias and many half-
hardy plants may be protected by laying straw and litter
about the roots, as the severest frost will penetrate but a
few inches. Very few half-hardy plants will be seriously
injured if their roots are covered a few inches deep with
straw or leaves. Garden pots, empty boxes, barrels, &c,

92 _ GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

are all useful. If any of these are used, holes should be
left in the top that the dampness may not accumulate un-
derneath, which might be more injurious than the frost.
Common tumblers are used in protecting small plants, to
be raised whenever much moisture accumulates.

Wooden frames covered with oiled paper are very use-
ful in protecting low plants. Vine-shields are also em. |
ployed for this purpose during the winter months. A
very slight covering over the top will protect from frost,
even though the sides are exposed, but the top should
never be left exposed to perpendicular frost. All tender
plants will survive the winter better in a northern expo-
sure, where the changes of atmosphere are more gradual,
than if subjected to alternate freezings and thawings sud-
denly, as they are in warm exposures.

Fruit trees while in blossom or with the young fruit
just formed are most easily protected from frost by having
a quantity of chips, dried tan, or trash of any description,
at hand. If the prospect of frost is pretty certain, small
fires are built in various parts of the garden on the wind-
ward side, and when burning well are covered with damp
trash of various kinds to create a great smoke, these are
kept up ail night, and the protection from the clouds of
warm smoke rising from the garden is quite sufficient to
-ward off all danger of frost. A large fruit garden may be
thus protected at an expense of less than a dollar for fuel
and one hand to watch the fires and keep them up all
night, and the pleasure and profit of a fine crop of fruit
when it is generally cut off is a great remuneration for the
small expense incurred.

NuMBER OF PLANTS REQUIRED TO AN AcRE.—'The
following table, showing the number of plants required
for an acre, is often of great convenience in planting
gardens and orchards: | |

DESTRUCTION OF VERMIN. 93

Distance yalee, of Distance No. of
apart. Plants. apart. Plants.
1 foot 43,560 10 feet 435
ee ey 19,3860 ; Ti. 360
2 feet 10,890 1 as 302
Be is 6,969 sets 257
210 he 4,840 14 ~ 1222
Dat 3,056 15 193
: eae 2,722 a6. 170
4x & 2,232 5k ifoag 150
Be 1,742 LB. 788 134
Ses 1,210 Ege &s 122
(aaeey 889 20" 108
S 680 Zoi 69
Slide 537 30 ‘* 49

DEstTRUCTION OF VERMIN.—Insects are much more
destructive to the vegetable kingdom in warm climates.
These minute destroyers attack almost every cultivated
plant, of which no portion escapes their ravages. One
devours its tender leaf as it issues from the ground, an-
other preys upon the root and the plant perishes; another
burrows into the stem,boring it in every direction until it
is broken off by the wind. The caterpillar preys upon
the leaves when it gets more mature, while the black
grub cuts off the young plant just as it is shooting into
growth. Some feed upon the flowers, while others devour
the matured fruit or seed. But though we cannot entirely
check, we can materially diminish their ravages.
~ During autumn, let the garden be sown with salt at the
rate of six or eight bushels per acre and many insects will
disappear. Even arsenic has been proposed to be min-
gled with the manure and incorporated with it in the soil
at the rate of some fifty pounds to an ordinary garden,
but this is a substance too dangerous. “In the cold
freezing weather of winter let the soil be frequently turned
over and exposed to frost, the oftener the better.

94 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

“ Krect a post in the centre of the garden, on which nail
a platform of planks some thirty inches square, which —
cover with sand; on this build nightly a fire of fat light-
wood for some weeks, from the time that moths, millers,
and butterflies begin to infest the garden. Large num-
bers will fly into the fire and be consumed.”*

Hang up common porter bottles, though wide-mouthed
bottles are preferable, during the same season, with a few
spoonfuls of sweetened water or molasses and vinegar in
them to be renewed every second evening, and hundreds
of moths that would have been the parents of a new race
of destroyers will be caught. This is the most prom-
ising mode of waging war also upon the melon-worm as
well as the corn and boll-worm, and many other insects.
For filling the bottles, a better preparation still is a pint
of water to half a pint of molasses, the water having as
much cobalt dissolved in it as it will take up before mixing
with the molasses. Put a wineglassful to each bottle and
empty once or twice a week.

Mr. Downing mentions an acquaintance who, using the
molasses and water only one season, caught and extermi-
nated three bushels of insects in this manner, and preserved
his garden almost free from them. Mr. Robinson, of New
Haven, caught over a peck in one night. Keep the ground
rich and sow healthy seed; cultivate thoroughly, and the
crop will soon be beyond their ravages. After the crops
are so far advanced that fowls will not do much injury by
scratching, keep them in the garden during the summer,
and the cabbage caterpillars and many other worms will
be exterminated. Birds are valuable assistants in the
work of destruction. Toads live almost entirely upon
insects, and do no injury to vegetables. Bonfires of brush

* R. B. Southern Cultivater, Nov 1855.

VERMIN. — 95

just after dark (where light wood is not convenient) will
attract and destroy immense numbers of moths and bee-
tles. Rolling the surface smooth when planted, destroys
the hiding places of many insects, and renders them less
destructive. Crush the beetle, the grub, or the leaf roller
under your foot, and you destroy a thousand enemies at
once, by preventing reproduction.

When the plants are attacked, various remedies are re-
quired.

Try the camphor preparation of R. B. in the Southern
Cultivator. Put into a barrel of water a quarter of a
pound of camphor, in pieces the size of a hickory nut, fill
with water and let it stand a day, and with this water your
plants, and fill the barrel for the next watering. The cam-
phor is slowly absorbed, and will last a long time. If the
camphor water is too weak, add to a barrel of water a cup-
ful or more of strong lye, and more will dissolve. Addalso
a pound of cheap cape aloes to a gallon of lye (or water in
which a pound of saleratus or potash has been dissolved) ;
add a pint of this to a barrel of water, and use as the
camphor water. Camphor and aloes (especially the for-
mer) are offensive to most insects.

Try also sprinkling the plants with ashes, air-slaked
lime, charcoal dust impregnated with the odor of oil tur-
pentine, soot, sulphur, or better still, Scotch snuff sifted on
the plants, by placing it in a tin cup, with the mouth cov-
ered with gauze, and shaking it when inverted over the
plants. Try also to drive away the insects.

Watering them and the plants with an infusion of to-
bacco, or China berries, soapsuds, solutions of guano, o1
whale oil soap, when the latter can be obtained. Fumigat-
ing with sulphur and tobacco is very efficient. But tobacco
water is the great remedy. Watering with guano water

96 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

is very satisfactory, as it is repulsive to most insects, and
hastens the growth of the plants.

The following are some of the most troublesome of these
pests :

Aphides, or plant lice, some species of which peculiar to
itself are found on almost every plant. They multiply with
astonishing rapidity. They are best destroyed by tobacco
juice. Steep the leaves until the solution is of a dark
brown color, and mix with an equal quantity of strong
soapsuds; dip the affected branch in the liquid, or sprin-
kle it liberally over the affected parts. Repeat as often as
one makes its appearance. The green aphis, which is
very injurious to rose bushes and other plants, may be
thus destroyed.

The Woolly Aphis is found mostly upon the apple tree.
It is a small dark-colored insect, covered with a white
woolly substance that conceals its body. Destroy the first
one that makes it appearance. Scrape the bark smooth
if rough, wash the tree, and fill every crevice with Har-
ris’s Composition: Two parts soft-soap and eight of
water, thickened with lime to the consistency of thick
whitewash, or wash with a solution of two pounds potash
to seven quarts of water. If the roots are affected, they
must also be washed, and fresh earth put about them. The
best application to the roots is strong tobacco-water poured
about them after removing the surface soil.

The Scaly Aphis, a bark louse, infests the bark of the
apple tree. They are of a dark brown color like the bark.
Tobacco-water and soapsuds applied to them the last of
May, while they are young, will destroy them.

Ants may be killed by pouring boiling water into their
hillocks; or may be caught in the wide-mouthed bottles
containing sweetened water, which are general extermina-
tors of moths, insects, and beetles of all kinds.

INSECTS. 97

The Apple Moth deposits its eggs in the eye of the
young fruit into which the gru, when hatched eats its
way, causing the fruit to drop prematurely. <A similar
insect attacks the peach. The only remedy is to allow .
swine to pick up the fallen fruit, or do it by hand as
soon as they fall, and destroy them. Their thin paper-like
cocoons may be found in the crevices of the trees in|
February and March, and should be destroyed.

The Apple-tree Borer is a grub produced by a beetle
which deposits its eggs in the bark of the apple and quince
near the ground. ‘The egg becomes a whitish grub which
eats into the tree in all directions, often completely girdling
it. Insert a wire into the holesand kill them. A mound
of ashes or lime rubbish raised about the base of the trunk
in the spring will prevent the beetles from depositing their
eggs in the soft bark. ‘This should be removed late in
summer when the danger is over and spread for manure.
Hot water might be as effectual as in the case of the
Peach borer, but it may be injurious to the tree.

The Peach-tree Borer deposits its eggs at the base of the
trunk on the soft bark ; when hatched they bore their way
under the bark, sometimes proceeding upwards along the
trunk, at other times downward into the root. Its
presence is made known by the effusion of gum; as it does
not penetrate the wood, it is easily traced by its holes
under the bark. Haul away the earth from the roots; clean
away the gum; cut out and destroy the grub with a knife,
or pour scalding water into his haunts from the spout of a
tea-kettle, which will kill the grub without injury to the
tree. Puta small mound of ashes or slacked lime around
the base of the trunk, to be scattered over the ground in
the fall, as they are an excellent dressing for the trees.
Peach trees should be carefully examined every autumn
and spring. The hot water application is desirable as it

i)

ote

98 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

promotes the health of the tree, almost always throwing
the most feeble into vigorous growth.

The Grape-vine Borer attacks grape-vines, except the
Scuppernong, in the same way as the peach-tree borer
injures peach trees, and the remedies are the same. Both
these insects are of the genus Mgeria.

The Melon Worm is noticed nude the article, Melon.
The most hopeful remedy is to destroy the moths before
laying their eggs by the light wood fires, or by catching
them in the bottles ; and whether this will prove successful
or not is to be ascertained.

Caterpillars—There are many varieties destructive to
the foliage of fruit and ornamental trees. One most
loathsome of these has caused the beautiful Catalpa to be
banished from our pleasure-grounds. The one on the
apple tree is the tent caterpillar, of which the moth lays
its eggs in large rings on the branches of trees which are
hatched the ensuing spring. If any of these clusters of
eggs are found at pruning time, cut them off and burn
them. If any caterpillars appear in the spring, they may
be removed by a round bush fastened to a pole, which is
put into the nest, and with a few turns web and.all is re-
moved to be crushed by the foot. Some kinds do not seem
put to any inconvenience by the application of strong
soapsuds, and on these the tobacco and soap preparation
may be applied. They may be brushed off into this
liquid. If nothing else will do, hand pete and scalding
water must be resorted to.

The Cherry and Pear Slugs are small slimy dark-brown
slugs that appear in summer devouring the leaves of the
pear and cherry. A sprinkling with the soap and tobacco
preparation weakened, applied two or three times, or
throwing slacked lime or ashes over them will destroy
them. The slugs that are injurious to garden vegetables

INSECTS. 99

ere caught by placing pieces of cabbage and turnip leaves
in their way, on which they will be found collected,
and may be thrown into the fire.

Cut-worm, or black grub. There are several varieties
of these, differing somewhat in color—the progeny of dif-
ferent heetles. The common variety is ash-colored with
a dark stripe on the back. When full-grown they are an
inch and a-half long and the size of a large quill. They
hide in the ground in hot sunny days, but come out at night
to eat of the tender stems of young plants. They are
much more destructive in warm, wet seasons. The only
remedy when they once appear is to examine the beds
every morning, when by digging near the plants cut off
you will generally find the destroyer. Choice plants may
be transplanted in trenches, as directed under the article
Cabbage, or protected by wrapping their stems in paper
when transplanted. Salt or lime will not kill them in the
spring, but if salt be applied in the fall broadcast they
do not appear the ensuing summer.

I have found it so one year at least in adjacent gardens ;
the one salted was free from the grub, while in the other
it was very destructive.

Cucumber and Squash Bugs resemble each other except
in color. If very troublesome, the plants may be sown
under boxes covered with millinet which will prevent
access to the plants.

The Curculio—This is a small brownish beetle about
a quarter of an inch long, and deposits its egg in a
semi-circular incision that it makes in stone fruit, which
hatches and eats its way into the young fruit, causing it to
fall prematurely. It attacks all stone fruits, but especially
apricots, nectarines and plums. It is not so destructive
in clayey or hard soils. The remedies that have hitherto
proved successful, are to pave the ground so that the grub

100 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

cannot enter it to complete his transformation ; besides this,
picking up the fruit as fast as it drops before the worm
can enter the earth has been found beneficial; likewise
jarring the tree (by striking sharply with a mallet on the
stump of a limb removed for the purpose) as soon as the
fruit is the size of a pea, and collecting the insects on a
white sheet as they fall, and destroying them; as the in-
sects are torpid in the morning, that is the best time for
the operation, which should be kept up until the fruit
begins to ripen. Trees planted near piles of fresh horse
manure are said to be free from the insects, they being
repelled by the ammoniacal gas. But the best of all
methods is to plant all stone fruits in an enclosure by
themselves in which pigs and poultry are admitted ; these
will collect the fruit as fast as it falls, and tread the
ground firmly together, so that it is not easy for the insects
to enter it. None of these methods will be fully effectual
if there are neglected trees near by from which the cu7-
cullo may emigrate. The most reliable of them is jarring
the trees, and destroying the insects daily; the next is
giving access toa large flock of chickens which destroying
the perfect insect are a much more efficient remedy than
the pigs alone.

The Corn Worm (Heliothes) comes from the egg of a yel-
lowish moth deposited in June, and after in the silk or
apex of the ears of Indian Corn while in the milk. The
caterpillar, at first scarcely visible, increases rapidly, and,
sheltered by the husk, feeds voraciously upon the tender
grains at the endof the cob. It is thought to be identical
with the boll-worm of the cotton plant. Injury may
probably be warded off by catching the first brood of
moths in the wide-mouth bottles before mentioned, or by
Col. Sorsbey’s plan with the moth of the boll-worm.
He mixed four parts vinegar to.one of molasses and put

INSECTS. 101

a gill of the mixture upou a common dinner plate which
was set on a board six inches square fastened to a stake in
height a little above the plauts. The next morning from
eighteen to thirty-five of the insects were found in each plate.
Following it up arfew days, the crop ceased to be infested.
A very few plates would be sufficient, as the odor of the
mixture attracts the insects from a great distance and
alighting on it in their eagerness to feed its adhesive na-
ture prevents escape. The light wood fires would also
probably serve the same purpose.

Where the worm has eaten the ear a secure retreat is
afforded to many other insects, and as the dampness from
the exuded sap favors the growth of mould, the remainder
of the ear is thus destroyed—( Pat. Of. Rep., 1854.)

Procris Americana.—The caterpillars of the American
Procris are very destructive to the foliage of grape-vines,
late in the season, injuring it as if scorched by fire. The
larvee are found in companies of several together under-
neath the leaves, feeding side by side upon the substance,
leaving only the stalk and large ribs untouched. The
eggs are deposited in clusters, and the caterpillars are
from five to six tenths of an inch in length, covered with
short hairs, which are longer on the second and last seg-
ments; they are of a yellow color, spotted with distinct
black spots, and attain their growth in twelve or fourteen
days. There are several broodsinaseason. The cocoons
are whitish, oblong, oval and flattened, with a chestnut
brown chrysalis. The moths measure nearly an inch
across the expanded wings, and are of a blue black color
except the collar, whichis orange. Destroy the caterpillars,
by syringing the infested leaves with whale oil soap in
solution, and crush by trampling those that fall to the
ground; or by picking off the infested leaves by hand, and

102 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

burning them when not too numerous. (Pat. Of. Report,
1854.)

Desmia Maculalis—This insect first appeared on my
own vines last summer, 1855, and is very destructive to
the foliage. ‘The caterpillar is nearly 4n inch long, of a
green color, with a black semi-circle on the first, and two
more black spots on the second segment of the body, It
is very lively, and when disturbed, backs out of its shelter
(made first by rolling a leaf and then fastening the outer
edge with silk) and suspends itself from the leaf. The
moth measures about an inch across the wings; the
female, which it is most important to recognize, has two
distinct white spots on a black ground on each upper and
under wing, two white bands around the abdomen, and a
white border around each wing, with a line of black.
through the centre. ‘Those moths are very troublesome
the. latter part of summer, and should be destroyed by
plucking and trampling on each infected leaf, which may
be easily recognized by its rolled-up appearance. ( See Pat.
Off. Report, 1854.)

The Vine-hopper is a small insect, very destructive to
the foliage of the grape vine. ‘The insect in its first stage
is unprovided with wings, and sucks the sap or juice of the
leaves with its beak, causing them to turn yellow, assuming
a blotched or scorched appearance. The outer skin is cast
several times before the insect attains its full size, which it
does about the end of July; meanwhile it has been con-
stantly feeding upon and draining the sap from the leaves
of the plant. When fully grown, it is provided with four
wings, and jumps with great activity if disturbed, or takes
to flight in such multitudes as to annoy people passing.
It has been asserted that these insects pass the winter
under leaves, roots, and tufts of grass, and in the spring

: INSECTS. 103

crawl out to deposit their eggs upon the vines, and then
die. Fumigation with tabacco under a movable tent is
the only known remedy, but in vineyards this is a Hany
practicable. (Pat. Off. Report.)

Rose Bugs are troublesome to rose bushes and fruit trees
insandy soils. They lay their eggs in the earth, which hatch
about the time roses bloom. They are sluggish things
and the best way is to strike them off the bushes upon
cloths and empty them into hot water.

The Turnip Fly is a general name for several insects
which attack the turnip, cabbage, &c., devouring the seed
leaves. ‘These are not troublesome in ground manured
by yarding cattle and sheep upon them. The best pre-
ventive is to use guano or any other manure so abounding
in phosphates that the turnips are soon out of reach—
dusting the plants with lime, soot ashes, &c., or keeping
broods of chickens in ae turnip patch will be found
beneficial.

Mice may be caught in traps, or poisoned with arsenic;
but the latter is dangerous if fowls or children have access
to the garden.

Moles are ofien véry troublesome in undermining beds
of cuttings or young plants in search of worms and insects.
They may be caught in various traps sold for the purpose,
but by putting tarred sticks in their burrows they will be
driven from them. Salting the soil is fatal to many insects
that are the food of the mole. |

Hares and Rabbits are very destructive to trees and
garden vegetables in all country places, and even in towns
we do not escape, but can be repelled by a tight board
fence, or a close hedge of the Macartney rose. Choice
trees can be bound up in broom straw during the winter.

104 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

GARDEN IMPLEMENTS.

The principal implements employed in gardening are
the following :

1. IMPLEMENTS FOR PREPARING AND OPERATING UPON
THE SOIL.

Swbsoil Plough.—This is of great service in large gar-
dens, answering as a tolerable substitute for the spade in
trenching for orchards and market gardens, doing the
work more cheaply and expeditiously, but not so well.
It requires a powerful team to manage it.

The one-horse Turning Plough is very efficient in deeply
stirring the soil among plantations of trees and the
larger garden crops. The whiffletrees should be short
that the trees and plants may not be injured. A strong
animal is required, and the plough must not come too near
the trees and plants.

The Cultivator supersedes in a great degree in market
gardens the necessity of hand-hoeing among the main
crops. By passing it over once a week between the rows,
all the hoeing required is a narrow strip of a few inches in
the row.

<

Le

SSS
4

—--——_

=
THE WHEELBARROW.

The Wheelbarrow.—This is indispensable in the smallest
garden. In carrying manures, applying composts, moving

IMPLEMENTS. 105

soils, and gathering crops, it is of constant service. The
handles and frame should be of tough wood, but the sides
and bottom may be of poplar or any light material.

GARDEN ROLLER.

The Garden Roller—This consists of two cast iron
sections one foot in width and twenty inches in diameter,
with an iron handle. Weights can be attached to the in-
side to.make it heavier if desired. Being made in two
sections the earth is not scraped up while turning around.
It is very useful in keeping grass lawns smooth and vel-
vety, and is valuable to follow the putting in of all seeds
in sandy soils. Lawns should be rolled when the ground
is moderately soft with rain, after each mowing. A toler-
able substitute, for a small plot of grass is a piece of plank

5*

106 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

_ two inches thick, eighteen inches long and ten wide, with
& handle inserted perpendicularly in the centre. With
this the lawn should be beat when the turf is set to a per-
fect level. This is quite as effectual a mode of smoothing
a lawn, but much more time and labor are required than
by the use of the roller’

The Pick.—This is indispensable in trenching hard clay
subsoils in which the spade cannot penetrate. It consists
of a wooden handle inserted in a head composed of two
iron levers both pointed with steel, one of which should
come to a point and the other made about two inches
wide for cutting roots or any obstructions.

SPADE.
The Spade—The best are Ames’, cast steel. A large

one is required for lifting trees, trenching, &c., but a
lighter one is convenient for common purposes.

SHOVELS.

Shovels are necessary for loading and spreading composts

IMPLEMENTS. 107

and manures. ‘The round pointed one is most convenient
for garden purposes.

MANURE FORKS.

Manure Forks are made with from four to eight tines.
The four-tined ones cut out of a solid plate are the best.
They are indispensable for moving fresh long: manures
with celerity and ease. A three-tined fork made like the
above with stout tines an inch wide is called a forked
spade. It is used like the spade for trenching heavy soils,
to loosen the earth and digging in manure in asparagus
beds or about trees without injury to or cutting the roots,
and is an exceedingly convenient implement.

The Crowbar is used in the garden, mostly for setting
poles for climbers, pea brush or other fixtures for training
plants and for removing rocks and other obstructions.

a

HOE.

Hoes—These are of constant use in gardening. They
are of two kinds; the draw-hoe and thrust-hoe, but the
draw-hoe is the most convenient. The most useful are
the square draw-hoes made of a cast steel Bae six inches
long and four wide

108 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

TRIANGULAR DRAW-HOE.

The Triangular Draw-Hoe for digging furrows, for sow-
ing seeds, and the narrow semi-circular or narrow square
turnip hoes with sharp edges for scraping the surface and
killing weeds. For digging deeply, a four pronged hoe,
sold at the North as a potato digger, is unequalled in the
facility with which the earth may be easily and thoroughly
worked. The tines should be stout and made of the
best cast-steel. The handles of all hoes should be smooth
and light, and there should be no extra weight about the
implement.

The Garden Rake is indispensable for levelling and finely
pulverizing the ground preparatory to sowing small seeds
after it has been spaded or hoed. The best are those
hammered out of a solid bar of steel as they never lose
their teeth or get out of order. 7

DRILL RAKE,

Drill Rakes are made of wood, and the teeth placed at
a greater or less distance for sowing different seeds. In
using, the first drill is guided by stretching a line, and -
afterwards the first tooth is kept in the drill last made te

IMPLEMENTS. © 109

guide, and thus all the rows in a long bed can be made

perfectly parallel. Several different sizes are required.
The Dibble is very convenient in transplanting cabbages

and all those plants that readily succeed when moved.

THE TROWEI,

The Trowel is a much better implement for removing
flowers and other tender plants, as they can be taken up
with a ball of earth attached without injury to the plants.

Screens for sifting earth, for filling flower-pots or covering
small seeds, are best made with rather stout wires and the
meshes + of an inch in diameter. | |

The Garden Reel and Line-—The line
should be a good hemp cord 4 of an inch
in diameter. The axis of the reel is
fastened in the earth. This is indispen-
sable where neatness and regularity are
desired in the rows and plats. It can
be easily and quickly wound up when
not in use,

GARDEN REEL AND LINE,

2. CuTTING IMPLEMENTS, FOR OPERATING ON PLANTS.

Ke ne
y a uail
PRUNING HAW-

The Pruning-Saw is made with fine teeth, from four-
teen to eighteen inches long, and a hooked handle, for
hanging upon a limb, while in the tree. It is also used in
cutting off large stocks for grafting.

110 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

BOW SAW.

The Bow- Saw, which has a very narrow blade, stiffened
with an arched back, the blade of which can be made
more or less stiff, by tightening the screw on which the
back turns, is the best for gardening purposes, and indis-
pensable for sawing off stocks horizontally, near the ground.
A small tenon saw is very convenient for grafting purposes

HAND PRUNING*SHEARS.,

Hand Pruning-Shears—Those with a sliding centre are
most desirable, as with them a draw-cut can be made as
smooth as witha knife. Small sizes are made for ladies,
and very highly finished. They are useful in clipping
hedges, shortening in peach trees, and cutting out small
dead branches. One man, with them, can do as much as
four with a pruning-knife.

Pole Pruning-Shears are fastened to a long handle, and
worked with a cord passing over a pulley. They are used
for removing dead branches, or those infested with insects,
from high trees. Branches an inch in diameter can be cut off
with this instrument. ‘They are best with a sliding centre

Note.—Many >f these implements are from the well known manufacturer, Mr.
R. L. Allen, 18f Water street, New York.

IMPLEMENTS. 111

PRUNING-SCISSORS,

Prumng-Scissors are also made with a sliding centre
and spring. They cut as smoothly as a pruning-knife,
and are very convenient for ladies’ use in pruning rose-
bushes.

VINE*SCISSORS,

Vine-Scissors are used in thinning grapes, when they
are too crowded in the bunches.

PRUNING*KNIFE,

Pruning-Knife—Those of English make are the best.
One of moderate size, about four inches long, is most con-
venient for the pocket. Another, of larger size, for heavy
work, is desirable.

BUDDING-KNIFE,

The Budding-Kmife has a broad, flat blade, the edge
of whick is rounded outwards, to make the incision-in the

112 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

bark more readily. It has an ivory haft, thin and smooth
at the end, for raising the bark.

ia Waele, ee

GRAFTING-TOOL.

The Grafting-Tool is employed in cleft-grafting large
stocks. It is used for splitting the stock, and has a sharp
edge, curved inwards, to cut the bark in splitting. The
wedge part is used to keep the stock open while the
scions are inserted.

LAWN-SCYTHE.

The Lawn- Scythe, with snath, is very necessary to keep
the grass smooth shaven, and of that soft green, velvety
appearance, so desirable. Those made of a thin plate of
steel, welded to an iron back, are light and durable, and
may be whet until the blade is within half an inch of tha
back, without grinding.

3.—INSTRUMENTS OF DESIGNATING, WATERING, &C.

Tallies —Those for common use, to last a single season,
are most readily prepared from the white pine of which
most dry-goods boxes are made. The wood is very soft

IMPLEMENTS. 113

For marking trees or grafts, a small tally, three-quarters
of an inch wide by three inches long, notched at one end
for attaching the wire, is commonly used. The name of
the variety should be marked on it with a lead pencil,
immediately afler the tally has been brushed over with a
thin coat of white lead. If marked while the paint is wet,
it can be read as long as the tally lasts; otherwise it will
soon be effaced.

Another kind is made, about six or eight inches long by
an inch wide, of the same material, and marked in the
same manner, to be stuck in the beds of flowers and veg-
etables, to mark the different varieties. Zinc labels will
last for ever. They may be cut in any desired shape out
of sheet zinc. Write on it with an ink made of two parts
fine verdigris, two sal. ammoniac, one lampblack. After
this is made fine in a mortar, add twenty parts water;
bottle and shake it occasionally some days before using.
It will keep for years, if tle bottle is kept cork down-
ward, to prevent the ammonia from escaping. The labels
should be fastened to the limbs with a stout wire.

FOLDING-LADDERS.

Folding-Ladders are very convenient in gathering fruit.
The rounds are fastened by pivots at the ends on which
they turn, and when the ladder is folded up, they lie in
grooves made in the side-pieces. |

*

114 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

The Standing-Ladder is also indispensable in the fruit
garden. It should be made light, with flat -
steps. The supports are two sticks of light
timber fixed to the top, with hooks and
straps, to be expanded or contracted at
pleasure. ‘They should be six or eight feet
high.

The Orchardist’s Hook is a light rod with
a hook at the end, with a movable piece of
wood which slides upon the rod. The
branches to be gathered from are brought near by the
hooked end, and returned in place by hooking the sliding-
piece into another branch.

STANDING LADDER,

BAND SYRINGE,

Hand Syringes are useful in watering plants in gardens
or in pots. They will also be found of use, occasionally,
in washing the foliage of plants. ‘They should be made of
copper, with several caps of greater or less fineness. There
should also be an inverted or gooseneck cap, not shown in |
the cut, for washing the under-side of leaves. Insects may
be expelled from plants by using an infusion of tobacco or
sulphur water for sprinkling them. They are made of
any desired size, up to a gallon.

Watering-Pots are well known implements, very neces-
sary ina garden. The best are of copper. There should
be two or three roses of different fineness. Hang them so
the water can run out, when not in use. Tin ones should
be painted occasionally, to prevent rusting.

Vine-Shields are excellent for protecting young plants

IMPLEMENTS. 115

from the cucumber and squash
bugs. ‘The top may be covered
with millinet. They should be
about eight or ten inches high,
and made bevelled, so that one
can be set within the other when VINE-SHIELD.

put away. They are made with or without a pane of
glass in the top. Put around any half-hardy plant, with
a lock of hay in them, they afford a very good protection
during winter. With a movable top, containing a pane or
two of glass, they are a tolerable sub-

stitute for the next described.

The Hand-Glass—The frame is
made either of hard wood or cast —
iron. It is made in two parts, to =
give air readily to the plants. Its
mode of construction is readily seen
in the figure.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

Agaricus Campestris—MUSHROOM.

«THE mushroom,” says Loudon, “is a well-known na-
tive vegetable, springing up in open pastures in August —
and September. It is most readily distinguished when of
middle size, by its fine pink or flesh-colored gills and plea-
sant smell. In a more advanced stage the gills become of
a chocolate color, and it is then more apt to be confounded
with other kinds of dubious quality ; but the species which
most nearly resembles it is slimy to the touch, having a
rather disagreeable smell—further, the noxious kind grows
in woods, or in the margin of woods, while the true mush-
room springs up chiefly in open pastures, and should be
gathered only in such places.”

Some of the species of this genus are very poisonous.
The mushrcom is remarkable for its close assimilation in
taste to animal matter. It is beginning to be extensively
cultivated in this country near our large cities.

Cultwre-—Beds may be readily constructed at any time
of the year, except between April and September, when
the temperature is rather too high for successful culture,
unless in the cool cellar of some outhouse. But November
and December are the best months for the purpose. Mush-
rooms are propagated by spawn, which may be obtained
for commencing from the seedsmen of our large cities.
After a little spawn is obtained, it can be increased as fol-
lows :—Take a quantity of fresh manure from high-fed

horses, mixed with short litter—add one-third cow’s dung,
(116)

MUSHROOM. te

and a good portion of loamy mould. Incorporate them
thoroughly, mixing them with the drainings of a dungheap,
and beat them until the whole becomes of the consistency
of a thick mortar. Spread the mixture on the level floor
of an open shed, and beat it flat with a spade. When it
becomes dried to the proper consistency, cut it into bricks
about eight inches square; set them on edge, and turn fre-
quently until half dry, then dibble two holes about half
through each brick, and when perfectly dry, insert in
each hole a piece of good spawn. Then somewhere under
cover place a bottom of dry horse dung six inches thick,
and place the bricks spawn side up, one upon another.
The pile may be made three feet high; cover it with warm
horse-dung sufficient to diffuse a gentle glow of heat
through the whole. The heat should not be over 70°, and
the pile should be examined the second day to see that it
does not overheat. When the spawn is diffused entirely
through the bricks the process is finished. The bricks
should then be laid separately in a dry place, and if kept
perfectly dry, retain their vegetative power for many years.
One bushel of spawn will plant a bed four feet by
twelve.

Beds for mushrooms may be made anywhere in a dry
situation under cover. Make them four feet wide, and from
ten to fifteen feet long, according to the wants of the
family. A small shed might be erected for the purpose,
but the back of a greenhouse is a very good situation, as
they do not need much light. Space must be left for an
alley, and if the shed be ten feet wide, it will admit of a
bed on each side. .

A sufficient quantity of the droppings of hard-fed
horses, pretty free from litter, must be obtained, which,
while collecting, must be kept dry, and spread out thinly
. and turned frequently to prevent violent heating. When

118 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

the rank steam has escaped the bed may be built. The
site should be dry. Dig out the earth six inches deep,
the size of the bed, and if good lay it aside for use. Fill
this trench with good fresh dung for the bottom, and lay
on this the prepared dung, until the whole is six inches
thick above the surface; beat it down firmly with the back
of the fork, and build up the sides with a slight but regu-
lar slope. Let the bed slope downwards towards the walk,
lay over it three inches of good clayey loam; place another
layer ten or twelve inches thick of prepared dung, and in
_ the same manner continue until the bed is two and a half
or three feet thick. Cover the bed with clean litter to
prevent drying and the escape of the gases, and let it.
remain ten days, or until the temperature becomes mild
and regular; about 60°, and certainly not less than 50°, is
the proper degree of warmth. Here skili and practice are
most required, for on the treatment at this precise point,
the success of the bed depends. If the manure has a
brown color, and is so loose and mellow that when pressed
it will yield no water, but has a fat unctious feel without
any smell of fresh dung, the bed is in a right state. If it
is dry, and hard, or sloppy and liquid, it is not in the
proper condition. In the first case moderate watering may
restore it, but in the latter the superabundance of water
will probably spoil it, and it is better to commence anew.
When the bed is ready, break the bricks of spawn into
lumps the size of a walnut, which plant regularly six
inches apart over the surface of the bed, including its sides
and ends, just beneath the surface of the manure. Level
the surface by gently smoothing with the back of the
spade. Fine rich loam, rather light than otherwise, is then
put on two inches thick. Lastly, a covering of straw from
six to twelve inches, according tothe temperature. Ifthe
-bed gets too hot, take off most of the covering. When

MUSHROOMS. 119

the bed appears too dry, sprinkle it gently with soft tepid
water in the morning. The water should be poured
through the rose of a watering-pot upon a thin layer of
straw, laid on for the purpose, and when the earth becomes
a little moistened, the straw should be removed, and the dry
covering replaced. In warm weather it will need frequent
sprinkling, but in winter very little.

In four or five weeks after spawning, the bed should
begin to produce, and if kept dry and warm will last
' several months. A gathering may take place two or
three times a week according to the productiveness. If it
should not come on in two or three months, a little more
warmth or a sprinkling of water will eenerally bring it
into plentiful bearing, unless the spawn has been destroyed
by over-heating or too much moisture. In gathering, de-
tach them with a gentle twist and fill the cavity with
mould; do not use a knife, as the stumps left in the
ground become the nurseries of maggots which are liable
to infest the succeeding crop. Gather before they become
flat—when half an inch or more in diameter, while compact
and firm.

Use.—This “voluptuous poison” has been cultivated and
in high esteem among epicures since the time of the
Romans. They are employed in catsups, pickles, and
rich gravies and considered by those accustomed to them-
very delicious. Dried and powdered they are preserved
in closely stopped bottles for times when they are not to
be procured fresh.

To Stew.—Cut off the part of the stem that grows in
the earth; wash carefully, and take off the skin from the
top; place in a stew-pan with salt, without water; stew
slowly, shaking the pan occasionally until tender; then

120 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

thicken with a spoonful of browned flour and one of
butter ; add spices and wine, if to your taste.

Lo broil—Prepare as above, and lay ona small gridiron
over bright coals, stalk upmost; broil quickly and serve
with butter, salt and pepper.

Mushroom Catsup—Take the flaps of two gallons of
fresh mushrooms and put in an earthen dish ; sprinkle upon
them three-fourths of a pound of salt ; crush them fine ; boil
sometime and strain; put them upon the fire again, and
add a few cloves of garlic, one-half ounce of black pepper,
and one-half ounce of ground cloves; boil until reduced
to one-half the original quantity ; bottle, cork tight, and
keep in a cool place. |

Allium—TueE ONION TRIBE.

This genus contains several of the most useful plants
which demand the gardener’s care. They all require a
rich, friable soil and a situation enjoying the full influence
of the sun, and free from the shade and drip of trees. If
the soil be poor or exhausted, abundance of manure
should be applied some time before planting and thoroughly
incorporated with it; for rank, unreduced dung is injurious,
engendering decay. If applied at the time of planting,
the manure must be thoroughly putrescent, and turned in
only to a moderate depth. If the ground be tenacious,
sand, or better still, charcoal dust is advantageous ; ashes
and soot are particularly beneficial. Common salt, at the
rate of six to eight bushels per acre, is an excellent appli-
cation to this family of plants. In digging the ground,
small spadefuls should be turned over at a time, that the
texture may be well broken and pulverized.

Light, sandy soils, if rich, are very well suited to the
growth of these vegetables.

ONION. Al

Allium Cepa—TuHE ONION.

This plant, which is probably a native of Asia and
Egypt, has been cultivated from the most remote antiquity,
and is one of the most useful of our garden crops.

Analysis by Richardson :

Potash, . : : ‘ : apm2oed
Soda, . A : : : ; 9.41
Panic, . - - : . 11.43
Magnesia, . : : : 2.44
Phosphate of Iron, . : : 27 °42.00

Phosphoric Acid, : : : 13.62
Sulphuric Acid, : ‘ ; eats

Chlorine, . 2 : ; : 2.46
Silica, . : : : : ee
Sand, Charcoal, . : . : 4,75
Carbonic Acid, : : : a beaten

99.94

It will be seen from the above analysis that to raise
good onions, soda, lime, potash, phosphoric and sulphuric
acid, and silica must be found in the soil abundantly.
Ashes, bone dust, gypsum, and the salt and lime mixture
will supply nearly all the inerganic constituents of this
crop; and where they do not already exist in sufficient
quantities in the soil they may be supplied in addition to
animal manure. Professor Mapes directs that when suffi-
cient manure cannot be obtained, four hundred pounds of
Peruvian guano composted with five bushels of bone dust,
dissolved in sulphuric acid and enough charcoal dust to
divide the mass, will be found to produce a maximum
crop. Guano water and spent lye well diluted are ex
eellent liquid manures.

Varieties.—There is a great number of varieties of
onions, among which are

Large Red, a hardy variety raised abundantly in the

6

122 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Northern States for export. It is deep red, medium size,
rather flat, and keeps well.

Yellow Strasburg—Large yellow, oval, a little flat-
tened, very hardy; keeps exceedingly well, but is a little
too strong in flavor for most tastes. Best for winter use at
the South. .

Silver-skinned.—Of smaller size but finer flavor, silvery
white, flat, and very much used for pickling.

These three are the best among some fourteen varieties
to raise for family use; and the Yellow and Red for gene-
ral culture, as the white is apt to decay. Besides these
varieties the T'op and Potato onion will be hereafter
noticed.

Culturz.—Onions are raised from seed or sets which
may be planted from October to April, but February is the
best month for the purpose. Onions require a very rich,
light soil and a free, open exposure; they will not do any-
thing under the shade of trees. If the soil is not rich, a
plenty of well rotted manure should be applied some time
before planting and well dug in. A moderate quantity of
leached ashes and soap suds will not come amiss, whether
before or after planting. They do not require achange of
soil, being an exception to the general rule that plants like
a rotation, as they have been grown in Scotland a century
in the same spot without any diminution of the crop. The
root throws off no excrementitious matter.

The onion can be grown in great perfection at the South.
In the hot climates of Spain, Portugal, and especially
Egypt, the finest onions in the world are produced, the roots
being milder and of greater size than in most countries.

It is a good plan to make the beds just wide enough for
three rows, say thirty inches wide, with a narrow alley
between, which may be filled with sweet corn or cabbages,
after the crop is laid by. The soil of the beds must be

ONION. 128
finely dug, the surface rolled smooth and all the clods beat
fine that may have escaped the spade. ‘The rows may be
laid off from twelve to fourteen inches apart. The drills
should be drawn very shallow, as the best onions grow
upon the surface of the ground. For this reason, it is well
to roll the bed, or beat it smooth with the back of the
spade, before making the drills. Some soak the seed
twenty-four hours before planting, but to little advantage.
Do not sow very thick—only one or two seeds in a place.
A seed every two inches is quite thick enough, as thin-
ning out, when too thick, is apt to injure the remainder.
Cover the seeds about half an inch, and press down the
earth upon them by a roller, or by walking over them ona
board. When they come up, thin them out gradually in
_the drills, to 6 inches apart. Keep the bed clean and free
from weeds; and stir it frequently, but not deeply, with a
hoe. Do not hill the earth up against the onions; but
draw it away from them with the fingers, as they do bet-
ter to grow entirely above the ground. There is no crop
more easily raised or preserved, if the ground is rich
enough, and the bulbs made to grow upon the surface.
After the young onions have got a good start, it is best to
drop the hoe entirely and resort to hand-weeding. In dry
weather, a thorough drenching in weak liquid manure, or
soapsuds, is excellent. For pickling, the white onion
should be sown much more thickly, and thinned out until
about one or two inches apart in the row, which will cause
them to ripen early, before they have made too large a
growth.

If onions grow thick-necked, and do not bulb properly,
bend down the stems about two inches above the neck, to
the ground, without disturbing the roots. This is needful
only in very wet seasons.

When very large bulbs are desired, the seed may be

124 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

sown quite thick, in pretty good soil, and not thinned out
at all. Little bulbs or sets will form about the size of the
button onion, which may be taken up when the tops die,
and preserved in a dry loft until time for preparing the
bed, and then may be planted, instead of the seed, eight
inches apart, in the drills. Ifthey throw up a seed stalk,
it must be promptly broken off, or they will form no bot-
toms. These sets, planted out early in the year, will
form fine large bulbs in May or June; while those raised
from the seed, do not ripen until July. Hence the latter
are better keepers. Besides, they are better flavored, and
more solid.

When the crop is ready for harvesting, it is known by
the drying up and change of color of the stems.

To preserve them.—Pull themon a dry day, dry them
thoroughly in the shade, and stow them in a loft where they
can have plenty of air. When thoroughly dry, they can
be strung in ropes. From two to five hundred bushels
per acre is the usual crop.

For seed—Select the largest and finest bulbs and plant
out in the fall, about twelve inches apart, in beds of com-
mon garden soil, not too rich. Keep them free from weeds;
and when they throw up seed-stalks, support them by
poles laid horizontally on stakes, six or eight inches above
the surface of the beds. Home grown seed from good bulbs
is as good as the best imported. It will keep three years.

Use.—Onions are among the most useful products of
the garden. ‘They possess valuable medicinal properties,
and are used in colds and coughs as an expectorant. Rub-
bed on the skin, they are a good application for the sting
of a bee. But they are mostly used in cooking, and espe-
cially as a flavoring ingredient and seasoning for soups,
meats and sauces; for which purpose they have been em-
ployed from time immemorial. They contain considerable

ONION. 125

nutriment, and are tolerably wholesome, especially if
boiled. Raw, they are not very digestible, and they are the
same if fried or roasted. Eating a few leaves of parsley
will destroy in a measure the unpleasant smell they im-
part to the breath.

To boil—Boil them twenty minutes in water with a lit-
tle salt; then pour off the water entirely. Then put in
equal parts of hot water and milk, or skimmed milk alone,
and boil them twenty minutes more. When they are done
through, take them up carefully with a skimmer ; let them
drain a little, and lay them into the dish. Put on butter,
pepper, and salt. Onions, like all other vegetables, need to
be slightly salted while cooking or their sweetness will be
mostly lost.

To pickle.—Select small silver-skins of equal size, peel
off their outer skin, and scald them three times with boil-
ing salt and water, allowing them to cool after each scald-
ing; then put the onions into a pot, pour boiling vinegar
upon them, cover them closely, and place them aside for
use. They ought to be good pickles in two weeks.—J/rs,
Bliss.

To make Onion Sauce—Peel and cut into slices two
onions, put them into a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of
butter; set the pan on a slow fire, and let it stew until the
onions are reduced to a pulp, then stir in one tablespoon-
ful of flour and let it brown; then add half a tumbler of
water, pouring it in a little at a time, and stirring contin-
ually. If the sauce is now too thick, add a little more
water, and salt it to your taste—MMrs. Bliss.

Allium Tuberosum—PoOTATO ONION.

I cannot learn the origin of this species—it derives
its name from producing a cluster of bulbs or offsets
beneath the surface of the soil. ‘There are two species,

126 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

one producing bulbs on the stem like the tree onion, and
the other never throwing up flower-stems at all. The
latter produces much larger bulbs than the other variety.

Culture—It is propagated by offsets of the roots which
may be planted at any time from October to March.
Prepare the soil as for the black seed variety, but not so
rich, and insert the offsets in drills twelve inches from each
other, and ten inches apart in the drills, with the tops just
level with the surface. Beds four feet wide are found the
most convenient in practice. Keep the ground loose and
free from weeds, but do not hoe deep nor earth them up,
if you would have them ripen perfectly. Take them up
when their leaves turn yellow and treat them as the last
variety described, if you wish to preserve for winter.
They will be found earlier and milder in flavor than those
raised from seed but not as profitable, as the bulbs are
rather small. Used in the same way as the other varieties.

Allium Proliferum—TREE OR BUTTON ONION.

Also called the Canada onion. A very hardy and peren-
nial species, it is very much cultivated, and a great favorite
in countries either too cold or too warm for the other
varieties to flourish. It produces little bulbs at the top of
its seed stems. Hence the name tree or top onion. This
is the easiest cultivated of any of the onions, properly so
ealled, and will always be a favorite as the crop is quite
abundant and little care is required.

Cultwre—Plant at any time from the first of October to
April, the little buttons produced at the top of the stalk.
The ground should be prepared and manured as directed for
the cormmon onion, and laid off in drills one foot apart, and
the butions set six inches distant in the drill. Beds four feet
wide are most convenient for culture and weeding. Plant
the button with its apex just even with the surface of the

GARLIC. 127

ground ; every little button will produce one, and often two
or three good sized onions. If you wish large bulbs, the
seed-stem should be broken down. ‘The old bulbs, if any
remain over, may be planted and will yield an abundant
crop of buttons and off-sets; keep the ground free of weeds
and cultivate as directed for the other onions, ‘They will
be fit for use if well treated, in May, long before the other
kinds. Gather and cure as directed for the common onion.
The small bulbs are the finest of this tribe for pickling,
being considered much superior in flavor.

Allium Sativwm—GaRuic.

This is a hardy perennial plant, a native of Sicily and
the south of France; it has been cultivated at least three
hundred years. ‘There are two sorts, one with large and
the other with small bulbs ; each bulb consisting of a half
dozen or more small bulbs or cloves. ‘The ashes of the
garlic bulbs have been analysed by Herapath, and the con-
stituents are given below. We have not been able to find
an analysis of the leaves.

Soluble matter —Carbonic Acid, A : 12.17
Sulphuric Acid, . ; Naar 8
Phosphoric Acid, . i 2.18
Potassa, : 4 ‘ + heals

Soda, ¥ é ‘ : trace

Chloride of Sodium, . sears 27

Insoluble matter—Carbonate of Lime, : pias
Do. Magnesia, ut 6.89

Phosphate of Lime, 4 30.09

Do. Magnesia, . trace

Do. Tron, f trace

Silica, ° ° . ») OL22

128 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

The above analysis indicates for Garlic a soil abounding
in potash and phosphate of lime, which may be supplied
if necessary by a compost of ashes and bone-dust. |

Culture—Garlic likes a dry light rich soil, but not
freshly manured; the manure should be put on the pre-
ceding crop. Prepare the ground as directed for the rest
of the onion tribe, and mark it off into drills eight inches
apart. Plant the cloves four inches distant in the drills,
and two inches deep, and see that they are put in right
side up. Keep the ground free from weeds, and light by
frequent hoeing; plant from October to March.

A few roots may be taken up the latter part of May
for use as required, but do not lift the crop until the leaves
are withered. Break down the seed stalk if it rises, to
prevent from running to seed, which would lessen the size
of the bulbs.

When the leaves turn yellow, take them up and dry
them thoroughly in the shade, tie them together by the
tops, and lay them up for winter in a dry loft as you
would onions. If the ground is not needed for another
crop, they may remain to be drawn as wanted.

Use—This plaat has a well known strong penetrating
odor which is most powerful at mid-day. In medicine it is
an excellent diaphoretic and expectorant; a diuretic when
taken internally. If garlic be steeped in brandy, the
tincture it forms is an excellent medicine for children.
A teaspoonful should be given every morning in spring to
every child on the premises, black or white, that is
subject to worms, as it acts as an excellent tonic and
anthelmintic. Some nations use it very extensively for
seasoning soups and stews, and indeed it enters into almost
every dish; but in this country it is not very much liked.
Still a very slight, scarcely perceptible flavor, or as the
French have it—a sowpgon of garlic is not repugnant, but

LEEK. 129

rather agreeable to most tastes. The juice is a good
cement for broken china.

Alliwm Fistolosum—CIBoULE, OR WELSH ONION.

This is a perennial with large succulent fistular leaves,
neyer forming bulbs, but cultivated for a spring salad.
Sow the seed the last of September. It will continue
growing all winter, withstanding the severest frosts. Sow
thickly, and thin out when wanted for use. It may
be sown at any time during the winter, but it is better
when sown as directed above. Once introduced into the
garden it will last many years, but it is hardly worth cul-
tivating as, on account of its strong taste, it is much infe-
rior to the common onion.

Allium Porruwm—LEEK.

The leek is a hardy biennial, found wild in Switzerland,
but has been cultivated in gardens from the earliest times.
It is mentioned in the Scriptures with the onion, as one of
the vegetables of the Egyptians; and at the present day
is often associated with the name of St. David, the patron
saint of the Welsh. ‘This plant endures the extremes of
heat and cold without injury. The following analysis of
the ashes of the roots and leaves of the leek is by Rich-
ardson :

Balb. Stem.
Potassa, 32.35 13.98
Soda, 8.04 14.43
Lime, 12.66 PASTA AY
Magnesia, 2.70 trace
Sulphuric Acid, 8.34 16.50
Silicic Acid, 3.04 19.77
Phosphoric Acid, 15.09
Phosphate of Iron. 13.29 10.06
Chloride of Sodium, 4.49 trace
100.00 99.84

6*

130 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

We see from the above that a good soil for leeks abounds
in potash, lime, and sulphuric and phosphoric acids. Ashes,
bones, gypsum, and common salt, will supply the requisite
salts if wanting, for this or almost any other garden crop.
A compost of guano, gypsum and charcoal would be very
_beneficial.

Varieties -—These are two, the Scotch, which is the
larger and hardier, and the London, which by many is
considered the better of the two.

Culture—The leek is raised solely from seed which
may be sown at any time during autumn, winter, and
spring, until the middle of April. February is the best
month for the purpose, if but one crop is raised.

The soil for leeks as for the others of the onion tribe,
should be light and rich; the blackest and most fertile soil
of the garden, but the manure applied must not be rank.
The same guano compost may be applied as for onions.
Leeks are generally sown broadcast, but it is a much
neater method to sow in drills. Make the drills in the
seed-bed eight inches apart, and about an inch deep, and
scatter the seed rather thinly. Press the earth upon the
seed as directed for onions. Some gardeners thin them
out, and allow them to remain in the seed-bed, but the
leek is so much improved by transplanting that this plan
cannot be recommended. When the plants are three or
four inches high, they must be weeded and thinned to one
or two inches apart, and frequently watered in dry wea-
ther. The seed-bed must be kept clean and light by weed-
ing, or the use of the hoe whenever required, until the
plants are six or eight inches high, when they will be fit
for transplanting. They must then be taken away from
the seed-bed, the ground being previously well watered,
if not already soft and yielding.

Having prepared beds fou: feet wide by spading in a

LEEK. 131

quantity of well-rotted manure, lay it off in little trenches
twelve inches apart, and as deep as the hoe will conve-
niently go. Dibble holes three inches deep, and six inches ~
apart in the bottom of the trenches, in which set out the
plants. Press the earth to the reots and neck only, and
not to the leaves. The tops may be slightly trimmed and
the roots slightly shortened. Some prefer planting them
on the level surface of the prepared bed, by inserting
them in holes made with the dibble, in rows ten inches
asunder, and eight inches apart in the rows nearly down
to the leaves, with the whole neck beneath the surface,
that it may be well blanched. Choose a moist time for
transplanting, and give a little water should they droop
A portion may remain in the seed-bed, six inches apart in
the rows, but they do not grow as large as the transplanted
ones.

The beds must be hoed occasionally to keep them free
from weeds and loosen the soil. In dry weather they
should be freely watered. By cutting off the leaves a lit-
tle about once a month, the neck will swell to a much
larger size; earth them up gradually if they stand on a
level ground, and, if in the trenches, the earth should be
drawn by a hoe, little by little, into the trenches, as the
plants increase in growth.

If a very early crop of leeks is desired, they may be
planted in September, and the plants will be ready to set
out the middle of February ensuing, and will come into
use in June or July. Leeks can be planted between
almost any other crop by giving six inches extra room.

For Seed—Some of the finest roots ot last year’s
growth, may be transplanted in February, eight inches
distant in arow. When the seed stems arise, they must
be supported by tying them to stakes. The heads should
be cut wken changed to a brownish color, with about a

bad GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

foot of the stalk attached, for the convenience of tying
them into bundles of three or four to dry. When dry,
they may be hung up in a dry place, and kept in the head
until wanted, or threshed out and stored in paper bags;
the seed will keep two years.

Use-—The whole plant is much used in soups and stews,
but the most delicate part isthe blanched stems. From
its mild agreeable taste, it is esteemed by many above the
onion.

To Boil—Trim off the coarser leaves, cut them into
equal lengths, tie in small bunches, and boil. in plenty of
water, which has been previously salted and skimmed.
Serve them with melted butter. They need about twenty-
five minutes boiling. If the water is changed when half
done, they are much more delicate, the strong flavor being
entirely removed.

Allium Ascalonium—SHALLOT, OR ESCHALLOT.

This plant derives its botanical name from growing wild
at Ascalon, in Syria. It has a stronger taste than the
onion; but as the strong flavor does not remain so long
upon the palate, it is often preferred. ‘The root is bulbous,
similar to that of garlic, in being divided into cloves, in-
cluded in a membrane. It rarely sends up a flower-stalk,
and hence is often called the barren onion.

Culture —It is propagated from the offsets of the roots.
Prepare the beds as for the rest of the onion tribe, but it
will do with not quite as rich a soil. Let the soil be made
perfectly light and friable. The last of September is the
best time for planting the early crop, but they may be
planted any time during the autumn and winter. The
early planted ones come into use early in May. Make
the beds four feet wide, and mark them off in drills an
inch deep, ter or twelve inches distant, and put the offsets

SHALLOTS. 133

out six inches apart in the drills. Do not cover deeply;
leave the point of the clove just even with the surface of
the earth, and press the soil around. Keep the ground
free from weeds, but be particular, in hoeing, not to earth
up the bulbs. The leek is the only member of the onion
tribe that is not injured by gathering the earth about its
stem. Take up the bulbs when ripe, dry in the shade,
and preserve as garlic. They may be kept until the next
spring.

Use-—The shallot, though more pungent than some
members of the onion family, is preferred by many in sea- ©
soning gravies, soups, and other culinary preparations, and
by some considered almost indispensable in the prepara-
tion of a good beefsteak. It can be pickled in the same
manner as the onion.

Shallot Vinegar—Peel and chop fine four ounces of
shallots; pour on them a quart of the best vinegar, and
let them steep a fortnight; then strain and bottle it—
Miss Leslie.

Shallot Sauce—Put a few chopped shallots into a little
gravy, boiled clear, and nearly half as much vinegar; sea-
son with pepper and salt; boil half an hour.—Mrs. Hale.

Allium Schenopraswn—CuIveES, OR CIVES.

A perennial plant, growing wild in the meadows of
Britain, as some varieties of the same genus do in this
country. The bunches are made up of a mass of little
bulbs, and produce pretty purplish flowers early in sum-
mer.

Culture—Any common soil will answer for this plant.
Divide the roots in autumn or spring, and plant them on
a bed or border, in little bunches of ten or twelve offsets,
in holes made with the dibble ten inches apart. If kept
free from weeds, they will speedily make large bunches,

134 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

a few of which will supply a large family. Cut the tops
smoothly off near the surface, when wanted, and fresh
ones will soon spring up. Cives make a very pretty
edging for beds in winter and spring. Renew this plant
every four years by taking up and dividing the roots.

Use.—It is an excellent substitute for young onions in
winter and spring salading, and is also used like leeks and
onions in seasoning soups, gravies, &c. ‘The leaves, cut
up fine and mixed with meal and water, are often fed to
young chickens as a preventive of disease. The little
bulbs may be taken up and stored, and are a tolerable
substitute for small onions.

Allium Scorodopraswm—ROCAMBOLE.

or Spanish Garlic, as it is sometimes called, has its bulbs
and cloves growing in a cluster, forming a kind of com-
pound root. The stem also bears bulbs at its summit.

Culéure.—It is best propagated by the root-bulbs, those
of the summit being slow in production. The planting
may be made at any time in the fall, winter, or spring.
Insert the bulbs in drills, or with the dibble, six inches
apart each way. Do not plant them Geep. Keep clear
of weeds, and cultivate and store like garlic. A very few
roots are suticient for any family.

Use-—The bulbs are used in the same manner as garlic,
and are preferred for-cooking, being of much milder flavor.

Apium.

Plants of this genus flourish best in a soil moist, friable,
and rather inclining to lightness. It must be rich, and
that rather from former applications than the immediate
addition of manure. Celery and Celeriac, however, appear
benefited by its abundant application at the time of sowing
_ and planting.

CELERY. | 135

The Parsleys like a tolerably dry soil. For all the
genus it must be deep, and none of them thrive so well on
a strong clay. They like an open situation, free from the
influence of trees. The common parsley bears best a
confined and shady situation. They have recently been
placed in the genus Petroselinum.

Apium Graveolens—CELERY.

Celery is a biennial plant, a native of Britain, where
the wild variety, under the name of Smallage, is found
growing in low, marshy grounds, and by the sides of ditches,
and is a coarse, rank weed, with an unpleasant smell and
taste. It has also been found growing wild on the shores
of the Chesapeake. No plant has been more improved by
culture than this, which, under the gardener’s hand, from
a worthless, disagreeable, and, as some say, poisonous
weed, has become, *ith its crisp, blanched stalk, and deli-
cate aromatic flavor, a favorite vegetable with the epicure
There are several varieties of celery, of which we shall
notice but four, viz. :

Red Solid—tThe hardiest variety, for winter use, with-
stands frost, and is distinguished by its color from the
next.

White Solid is more crisp and delicate in flavor than the
preceding, and a general favorite, on account of its color.

Seymour's Red, and Seymour's White seem to be im-
provements on the old red and white solid, producing
larger and finer stalks, but these depend for size and excel-
lence very much upon the growers. Any one of the above
varieties will give satisfaction, with proper culture.

An analysis of the ashes of celery has been made by
Richardson, which we give below. One hundred pounds
of celery gave 1 ,j, pounds of ash, containing the follow-
ing constituents :

136 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Potassa, E z j 4 ; 22.07

Lime, ds « ‘ ; , 13.11
Magnesia, . : . : : 5.82
Oxide of manganese, 5 : Loe
Sulphuric acid, . ; : : 5.58
Silicie acid, d i § ; 3.85
Phosphoric acid, é : : 11.58
Phosphate of iron, . : . 2.66
Chloride of potassium, ; eee

From the above we see that the soil for fine celery must
be rich in potash, lime, phosphoric acid, and chloride of
potassium. ‘T’he abundance of potash and chloride of
potassium explains the beneficial action of salt and ashes
upon this plant. But it will not do to depend upon special
manures alone, without the addition of ammoniacal fer-
tilizers.

Culture-—Celery can be very successfully cultivated in
this climate. The ground for this plant must be quite
rich, without the application of heating manure. It likes
a cool, moist, but not wet soil. There are several modes
of cultivation, of which we shall give but two. The best
mode is to sow in February, March, or April, in drills
seven or eight inches apart. As celery is a long while
vegetating in the open air, it is desirable to sow the early
crop under glass. Let the seed-bed be very rich, and
with a little salt well mixed with the soil. Water freely
in mild weather, when the soil appears too dry, taking off
the sash in warm days, and giving air every day at noon
until the seed comes up, which, if managed in this way,
will not be long in making its appearance. After the seed
is up, the glass should still be kept on nights, until mild
spring weather, when it may be removed altogether.
Celery is very much benefited, while in the seed-bed, by
shading it at mid-day, and the April sowing must be
shaded, or it will not come up. Frequent watering with

CELERY. 137 —

guano-water, or liquid-manure, very much diluted, 1s ex-
ceedingly beneficial. The plants also should be kept
clean and thinned out, while not over three or four inches
high, to three inches apart. Choose damp weather for
this purpose. Those which are taken up may be replanted
in a bed prepared by thorough digging in the richest part
of the garden. With the uppermost six inches of this bed
should be incorporated as rich a coat of well-rotted manure
as can well be mixed in. Plant them out three inches
apart each way, and water them thoroughly every night,
unless the weather be cold or wet. Keep them shaded
during the day for a short time, until established. Here
let them remain until fit to plant out permanently. ‘Those
which remain in the seed-bed should have their tops short-
ened, to make them grow more stoutly, and be frequently
watered. ‘T’he earth should always be stirred the morning ©
after giving water, to prevent the ground from growing
hard. ‘The transplanted ones will make the finest crop;
but for late celery, they should be cut off nearly to the
crown, two or three times, to make them grow stout.
When the plants are grown from six to nine inches high,
it will be the proper time to plant those for early celery
where they are to remain. And now, if you wish extra
fine heads, trench your celery-patch, which must be very
rich, twenty inches deep, turning the rich soil to the bot-
tom, and the poor subsoil to the top, which will be just as
good for blanching as the best. As the celery is to be
planted in a trench, this will throw the best of the soile
where the roots of the plant can appropriate it. In the
soil thus prepared, dig trenches three and a half feet apart,
a foot wide, and the same in depth. Draw a line and mark
out the sides by thrusting down the edge of the spade before
digging out the earth, and then lay the soil taken out
carefully on each side in the spaces between the tvenches

138 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

If there is danger that the water from the adjoining parts
of the garden should wash in and fill up the trenches,
then the celery plantation must be protected by a ditch.
The soil can hardly be made too rich; therefore, incorpo-
rate well-decomposed stable manure with the bottom soil
of the trench, and intermingle it with good rich earth, so
as to fill up the trench about four inches, leaving it eight
inches deep. Add bone-dust, if you can get it, and let a
pint of salt be added to every fifty feet of trench, and
thoroughly intermingled with the soil. When celery is
raised on a large scale, Professor Mapes directs the follow-
ing composts to be put in the bottom of the trench :—One
half cord well-decomposed stable manure, thoroughly
mixed with ten gallons strong brine; or one cord swamp-
muck or leaf-mould from the woods, decomposed with the
salt and lime mixture, well intermingled, with fifty pounds
Peruvian guano, ten days before use; or one load charcoal
dust, two hundred pounds guano, and two bushels of com-
mon salt: mix the salt and guano with water, to the con-
sistence of cream, and thoroughly intermingle with the
charcoal dust.

The last manure is much more powerful than the others,
and a less quantity is required.

If the weather is not cloudy or damp when you wish to
transplant, saturate your nursery-bed, two or three hours
before planting, with water, and take up each plant with
a trowel, leaving a ball of earth attached. Cut off the

« straggling leaves, shorten in the remainder, and remove
the offsets, but do not disturb the crown of the plant.
Transplant late in the evening, and if done with care, and
they are freely watered, they will hardly need shading,
unless it is very hot. The plants should be six inches
apart in the trenches. Stir the soil frequently, keep clear
from weeds, and water copiously in dry weather with soap-

CELERY. 139

suds, rain, or guano water. Earthing-up is necessary, in
order to blanch and sweeten the stalk.

If you wish very large plants, or to preserve for winter
use, do not commence this until October; but if you desire
a few, delicate and crisp, for early use, begin, when from
twelve to eighteen inches high, earthing up a little ata
time in fine dry weather, but not too often; once in two
or three weeks is sufficient, as, if disturbed too much, the
stalks do not grow so large. 'Take care not to cover the
crown bud. At every earthing up, a very slight sprink-
ling of salt in the trenches is advantageous. Continue the
earthing up every two or three weeks, as the plant grows, |
through the season. In earthing-up, care must be taken
that the mould does not get between and separate the
leaves, which induces decay. Hold the leaves tightly
with one hand, and with the other draw the earth care-
fully about the stems. The earth should be fine and
well pulverized. Draw it evenly in a sloping direction
from the base to near the top of the leaf-stalks, and beat it
compactly with the back of the spade to throw off violent
storms. In the whole process of raising celery, the
ground must be kept well pulverized and free from weeds,
and liberal watering in continued dry weather is very neces-
sary. Do not earth up celery while the plants are wet.
The French bind the plants with straw bands, previous to
earthing up, just as we do cardoons.

Market gardeners do not prick out their celery at all;
they let it grow pretty thick in the seed-bed, and if the
plants get too high before the time of setting out, they
cut the leaves off nearly to the crown. They make the
_ trenches with the turning-plough, and after the earthing-
up has proceeded so far by hand as to make the trenches
level with the surface, they use the plough between the
rows previous to earthing-up with the hoe. They also

140 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

take their late and early plants from the same bed; for late
celery, cutting off the plants as often as they get too high.
Plants can thus be kept in the seed-bed until the last of
July, and by being thus cut down, the butts and stalks of
the celery will be stocky, large, and fine.

Celery grows so quickly after the plant is established,
that those plants put out the last of July, and earthed-up
in October and November, make the finest butts for a
main crop. There is beside no difficulty in their keeping.
The very finest celery may be grown by the foregoing
method; but celery, quite good enough for common use,
ean be raised after Mr. Peabody’s plan, which we give in
his own words:

“As the whole process of making celery is artificial,
the soil must be very rich, without heating manure. The
seed may be sown in February and March, and may be
put in in drills, where it is desirable to have it stand for
blanching (all the transplanting and trenching is non-
sense); the seed should be sown very thin, and covered
about half an inch, and the earth trampled quite hard on
them, which will cause them soon to vegetate. When the
plants are up three inches, thin them out, to a stand of
about six inches apart, and in clear, dry weather, draw
the earth up to the plant, taking care to leave the crown-
bud uncovered. This must be repeated as fast as the
plant grows, until a mound or ridge has been made around
the plant some two or three feet high. It will now be fit
for the table. On uncovering the stalks, they will be
found to be beautifully blanched, and perfectly delicate
and tender. A rough frame-work over the plants, covered
with brush through the hottest part of the day, will be an
advantage.”

The advantage of growing celery in trenches, over Mr.
Peabody’s plan, is, that not only are the stalks larger, but

—— “

CELERY. 141

in our dry climate the plants are far less affected by
drought, as the trenches retain all the moisture received.
Very good celery for common use may be raised by setting
the plants, when ready for final transplanting, between
the rows of Irish potatoes; as these have been hilled up, a
trench already exists. This should be well dug, and
plenty of rotten stable manure applied. By the time the
celery begins to grow, the potatoes can be removed. As
the celery advances in growth, draw the earth up to the
stem, and continue this as long asit is in the ground. It
will be just as good for soups as if grown in regular
trenches, with not a tenth of the trouble, and in time gets
large enough to eat as salad. Celery grown in rich
ground is far more crisp and agreeable than on that less
highly manured.

Celery, in this climate, need not be gathered or stored
away, but may remain in the ground until needed for use.
In taking up, the row should always be commenced at
one end, and the earth dug away entirely down to the
root. ‘The plants can thus be easily extracted. If forced
up, they break and are spoiled.

To save Seed—Leave some plants where grown; in the
latter part of February, take them carefully, cut off
the outside leaves, and remove the side-shoots, and plant
them out in moist soil, one foot apart. Select those which
are solid and of middling size. Tie the seed-stalks to
stakes, to preserve them from being broken off by violent
winds. After the flowers open, while the seed is swelling,
if dry weather occurs, water at least every other night.
When the seed is dry, it may be rubbed out and stored in
a dry place. They will keep good four years.

Use—Celery has some little nutriment, but is cultivated
chiefly as a luxury. The sweet, crisp stalks, used raw,
with a little salt, form a most grateful salad. It is alse

142 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

much used as a seasoning, and is a great improvement to
all soups and gravies. A few plants for this purpose are
as necessary and wholesome as onions. The unblanched
leaves and seeds are sometimes employed in flavoring.
The blanched stalks form a pleasant conserve, with the
addition of sugar.

Lo Stew—Wash the heads, and strip off the outer
leaves; either halve or leave them whole, according to
their size, and cut them into lengths of four inches. Pui
them into a stew-pan, with a cup of broth, or weak white
gravy ; stew till tender; then add two spoonfuls of cream,
a little flour and butter, seasoned with pepper, salt, nut-.
meg, and a little pounded white sugar, and simmer all
together.— Mrs. Hale.

Celery Sauce-——Wash and pare a bunch of celery; cut
it into pieces, and boil gently until tender; add half a pint
of cream, and a small piece of butter rolled in flour; now
boil gently —Mrs. Hale.

Apium Rapaceum—CELERIAC OF T'URNIP-ROOTED
CELERY.

In Germany, this is esteemed an excellent vegetable,
but it is not much cultivated by the Englishor Americans.
Its root, well grown, is tender and of a sweeter flavor than
the one last described.

Celeriac is propagated by seed, which should be sown
at the same time, and the young plants treated in the same
manner as celery. Like that plant, the seeds are slow in
coming up. Keep the plants free from weeds and prick
them out when small, as directed in the last article; when
the plants are six inches high they are fit for final trans-
planting; set them in rows two feet asunder, and eight
inches apart in the rows upon the level ground, or
in drills drawn with the hoe three inshes deep, as they

CELERY. 143

require but little earthing-up. When arrived to nearly
their full size, they must be covered over with earth to
the depth of four inches. In dry weather they should be
watered plentifully every evening, as they like even more
water thancelery. The only additional attention required
is to keep them free from weeds. The plant is more
easily cultivated than celery.

Saving Seeds—The directions for celery are in every
respect applicable to celeriac.

Use—This, though a very fine vegetable, seems to be
little known. Thestalksare used for seasoning soups &c., the
same as celery from which they can hardly be distinguished.
The roots are nice boiled tender, cut in slices and used
in seasoning soups or meat pies; or scrape and cut them
in slices, boil till very tender, draw off the water, sprinkle
a little salt and turn in milk sufficient to cover them ; stew
four or five minutes, and serve up with the addition of a
little butter—M7s. Webster.

Bridgman says “ the French and Germans.cut it in slices
and soak a few hours in vinegar—by such simple prepara-
tion it becames mellow as a pine-apple and affords a deli-
cious and very nourishing repast.” The root is better
than celery for seasoning soups.

Apiwm Petroselinwm*—PAaRSLEY. «

Parsley is a biennial plant from Sardinia and southern
Europe. There are two varieties, the plain and the curly-
leaved. The first is most cultivated, notwithstanding the
greater beauty of the latter for a garnish. The curled
plant however requires more care in selecting, or it soon
degenerates into the plain-leaved variety. Some think
the plain has the best flavor.

Cultuve—Parsley is raised only from seed. Sow at

* Petroselinum Sativum.

144 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

any time from the first of October until April. The seed
if kept through the winter vegetates slowly and should
be soaked twenty-four hours in water before planting.
Parsley beds must be made annually if the plants are al-
lowed to run to seed; but if the seed stalks are cut down
as often as they rise, the plants will last many years.
Many sow parsley as an edging to other beds or compart-
ments. If sown in beds by itself, it is better not to sow
broadcast, but in drills ten inches apart. Any good garden
soil is rich enough for this plant. Pulverize the bed by
thorough spading, and rake it level before making the
drills. Sow the seed moderately thick in drills an inch
deep, and press the soil upon the seed; a few radish seed
may be sprinkled in the drills to mark them. The plants
will not come up in less than three or four and sometimes
six weeks. If sown late give ita shady border. October
is the best month to sow this plant. Should the bed get
weedy before the parsley appears, pull the intruders out
by hand. As soon as the rows can be seen, hoe between
them and draw a rake crosswise to break the crust which
has been formed, and the plants will grow vigorously.
They will be fit for use when two or three inches high.
When they get strong, thin them out to three inches and
finally to nine inches apart, being careful to reject all
plants from the seed bed that are not nicely curled. If they
grow too rank in summer, cut them off close to the collar.

Soot is the very best manure for parsley, but it should
be sparingly applied. A bed six feet long by four feet
wide is large enough for almost any family. It is best to
appropriate to it such a bed, where it will sow itself and
yield a constant succession of new plants. Parsley needs
no protection here, but grows all winter. Cut off the
plants closely in October that they may send up a fresh
growth for winter use.

HAMBURGH PARSLEY. 145

To save Seeds—All you have to do, is to let some of the
finest curled plants throw up seed-stalks; let them stand
eighteen inches apart; when the seed ripens it may be
stored in a dry place. It will keep good several years,
and it is singular that seed four years old will come up
more quickly than that gathered six months before sowing.

Use—Parsley is a very agreeable and useful plant,
affording a beautiful garnish. It is also used for its aro-
matic properties in seasoning soups, stews, and meats.
The green leaves eaten raw diminish the unpleasant smell
of the breath after eating leeks and onions. It can be
dried in summer, pounded fine, and put away in bottles;
but this is of no use in this climate, where fresh, green
parsley can be had all winter from the garden. A ‘ea
made of the root is a good diuretic for children. The
plant is also said to be useful in dropsy.

Apiwm Latifoliwm*—HAMBURGH PARSLEY.

This plant is also known by the name of broad leaved
or large-rooted parsley. It is not much cultivated ; it is
propagated by seed, which may be sown from October to
April. Sow thinly in drills, ten inches apart, in good
soil, well dug and raked clean previous to laying out the
drills. ° |

The plants come up about a month after sowing. When
tolerably well grown, thin them out to nine inches asunder.
Clean the bed from weeds, either with the hand or the
hoe. Hoeing as often as the weeds appear or the ground
gets hard is all the cultivation they need. By the first of
July the plants may begin to be drawn for use. They can
remain in the bed during the winter, to be drawn as
required.

To obtain Seed.—Allow some of the best plants to re-

*Petroselinun———?

146 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

main and throw up seed stalks. When the seed is ripe,
cut, and when perfectly dry beat out and store away in a
dry place.

Use—The root is the part used, and is about the size
of a middling parsnip. By boiling, it is rendered very
tender and palatable. It is eaten either as a sauce to
meats or in soups like the carrot, but is not likely to come
into very general use.

Arachis Hypogea—GROUND PEA.

This plant is likewise known as the ground nut, pindar,
and pea nut. Although not exactly belonging to the
kitchen garden, a few hills should be allowed a place
for the sake of the little folks, and indeed when baked
few of the older members of the family will find them un-
palatable.

The ground pea was originally brought from Africa.
It is also said to be a native of Mexico. This plant is a
trailing annual, one of the few which ripens seed under
ground. The yellow pea-shaped flower springs from the
part of the stem near the surface of the earth, and after
being fertilized, the flower stem elongates, growing from
four to eight inches, turning downward until the small
tubercle which isto be the future seed-pod, reaches and
penetrates the earth. From the lower extremity of each
legume, in the early part of its growth filaments proceed,
seeking moisture and probably nutriment from the soil.
The seed of the ground pea abounds in a fine oil which
is sometimes expressed for table purposes.

This oil renders it a very valuable crop for fattening
hogs, being for this purpose fully equal to, and probably
better than corn. The vines are greedily eaten by most
farm animals.

Culture—The ground pea thrives and produces best on

ARRACACHA. | 147

a light, tolerably fertile soil with a good clay subsoil. Like
clover, it possesses a long tap-root which extends deep
into the earth, drawing thence the fertilizing properties
which are beyond the reach of many of our cultivated
crops. The soil should be deep and mellow and well
broken up, so as to be ready for planting soon after the
heavy frosts are over. The last of March or the first of
April is a suitable time.

For field culture, they may be planted in the pod, two
in the hill; but for the garden should be shelled. It is
best to drop about four in a hill on the level ground; the
rows being laid off three and a half feet wide and the hills
two feet asunder; cover them two or three inches.

When they come up, thin them to two in a hill and, if
there be any vacancy, transplant. It is better to plant
them level than on ridges, as they are less liable to suffer
from drought. As they continue growing all the season,
it is well to get them started as early as the season will
permit. The only after-culture they require is to keep
the ground clear and mellow, and a slight hilling up when
they are laid by. They will produce from twenty-five to
seventy or eighty bushels per acre, according to soil and
culture, and are as easily cultivated as corn.

Arracacha Esculenta.

This is an umbelliferous plant, a native of Columbia,
the root of which has been compared to the potato in ex-
cellence and even supposed by some, likely to supersede
it. Its main root divides into several large prongs. It
considerably resembles celery in the appearance of its
leaves, and belongs to the same natural family. Its root
is light, starchy, and wholesome, and to those accustomed
to it, agreeable. It is said to thrive best in the elevated
mountain regions where the medium temperature does not

148 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

exceed 60°. It is propagated by division of the root an
more rarely by seed. It is worthy of trial here.

Artemisia Dracunculus—TARRAGON.

This is a perennial plant, a native of Siberia. It
belongs to the same genus as the wormwood, but its frag-
rant smell and warm aromatic taste have introduced it
into the kitchen garden. There is but one variety culti-
vated.

Culture.—This plant does not require a rich soil, and as
it is a native of a cold climate, it is best to give it a bleak
winter exposure. Poor dry earth is necessary to perfect
its flavor. ‘Tarragon is propagated by seed, slips, cuttings
and parting of the root. The latter is the easiest mode
and most generally practised. It may be planted in Feb-
ruary, the plants being ten inches apart. Give a little
water in dry weather until they are rooted. As they run
up, if seed is not desired, cut down the seed stalks and
they will shoot up afresh. Keep them free from weeds.
It has been cultivated here with success.

Use-——Tarragon is used in salads to correct the coldness
of other herbs. Its leaves are excellent pickled or for
flavoring vinegar to be used for fish sauces or with horse-
radish for beef steaks.

Asparagus Officinalis—ASPARAGUS.

This plant has been cultivated as a garden vegetable,
for at least two thousand years. Cato, 150 years before
Christ, gives a full detail of its mode of culture among the
Romans. Its culture originated probably in Greece, for
its name is pure Greek, and signifies a bud not fully opened; ~
and it is known throughout Europe, by names derived or
corrupted from the Greek.

ASPARAGUS. 149

The wild asparagus is found native in Japan; and on
the sea coasts of most parts of Europe.

In its wild state, the stem is not thicker than a goose-
quill. From this plant, by the aid of manure and culture,
our delicious garden varieties were raised. Miller has
succeeded in effecting the same result in modern times.

There are only two varieties of asparagus of any im-
portance, the green and the red-topped. The latter with
purplish green shoots, is the one principally cultivated.
There are some sub-varieties, but these derive all their
merit from superior cultivation.

The following analysis of asparagus is by Thomas
Richardson :

Potassa, . 2 4 ; : 5. OE
soda, -': : ; : : ph aoe e

Lime, , ‘ é 3 24,39
Magnesia, . - : : : 3.03
Sulphuric Acid, : : : - 4.13
Silicic Acid, . : : ; peel AT

Phosphoric Acid, ; : . 18.51
Phosphate of Iron, : : , 3.31
Chloride of Sodium, . 2 : . 12.94

100.00

The per-centage of ash was only 445 of a pound, from one
hundred pounds of the undried plant.

In other analyses of asparagus the proportion of soda is
considably reduced. Asparagus, like some other plants
has the power of substituting the other alkalies, lime and
potash, in the place of soda.

All of the analyses exhibit larger proportions of chloride
of sodium, or its elements, chlorine and sodium, also of phos-
phoric acid.

In the present instance, over three-fifths of the inorganic
elements of the plant, are made up of these constituents.

150 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

This very clearly explains why salt and sea-weed are found
so beneficial, and shows that the application of bone ma-
nure, or superphosphate of lime, in connexion with animal
manures, may be beneficial. In the analysis of the wild
plant, the proportion of these elements is quite as large.

Culture.—Asparagus is propagated only by seed, one
ounce of which will produce a thousand plants. Sow the
seed any time in February, or early in March. It likes a
fresh and deep sandy loam, the richer the better—as free
as possible from all shade of trees or shrubs. Soak the
seed twenty-four hours before planting, and it will come up
earlier; draw the drills one foot apart, and with a dibble
make holes six inches distant, in which drop two or three
seeds. Let the seed be covered an inch deep, and press
the earth upon it. In very dry weather the seed-beds
should be frequently watered. If unable to sow as early
as directed, shade must be given to the bed, for which pur-
pose pine boughs are well suited. These should be removed
nights and cloudy days. Care must be taken to keep the
seed-bed light and free from weeds, though this operation
must be delayed until the plants appear well above ground.
If two plants appear in the same hole, the weaker must be
removed as soon as that point can be determined. ‘T'rans-
planted, these will make pretty good plants by fall. If
they are to remain in the seed-bed until spring, which is
best, when the stems are withered, cut them down and
spread well-rotted stable dung over the bed two inches
deep, which will increase the vigor of the plants the next
year, and also protect them from frost.

Asparagus treated in this manner will perfect seed. the
first year in this climate, and the roots one year old, make
quite as good beds as if allowed to remain in the seed-plot
another year. You may plant them out safely in autumn
or any time during the winter, choosing a mild cloudy day,

ASPARAGUS. 151

and protecting them when planted with a covering of ma-
nure overspread with litter; but the best time to transplant
is when the plants begin to grow early in the spring, for if
they remain torpid during two or three months, some of
them will die, and all will be weakened.

As it should be a matter of pride to have this ee
as early as possible, choose a site where the bed can be
fully exposed to the sun. If you wish to prolong its season,
another bed may be planted on a northern exposure. The
subsoil should be dry, and if not naturally so, must be well
drained. It must be dug up thoroughly at least two and
a-half feet deep, the poor soil removed, and its place sup-
plied with rich light loam. On a plot of four square rods,
sow from seventy-five to a hundred pounds of fine salt,
and dig it in four or five inches deep. Asparagus is a sea-
shore plant, and salt will not hurt it; but is life and noar-
ishment to it. Bury your manure and mix it well through-
out the whole depth, as you can hardly make the ground
too rich. Asparagus will grow, it is true, without all this
trouble, but the size, sweetness and tenderness of the
shoots, will pay for doing the work in the best manner.

After taking out the soil the bottom should be covered
with at least six inches of well-rotted manure, as this can
never be reached after the roots are once planted. Inter-
mix nearly as much more throughout the bed, except the
top four or five inches, as the manure should not come in
contact with the fresh roots. So manured and deeply dug,
the plants will send down their roots too deeply to fear a
drought.

Make the beds four and a half feet wide, and the paths
two feet in width between the beds.

The plants should be carefully taken up without injury,
choosing a mild cloudy day, but the ground must not be
wet. A narrow dungfork is a good instrument for tha

152. -- GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

purpose. Lay the roots separately and evenly together,
that they may not be entangled and injured while plant-
ing ; keep them while planting in a basket covered with a
little sand. Plant your first row by straining a line four
inches from the edge of the bed; then with your spade
cut out a trench six inches deep with the side next the line
perpendicular, in which set the plants twelve inches apart,
if good large heads are desired. Place the roots against
the perpendicular side of the trench, and spread them out
evenly in the bottom of the trench, and cover them by
drawing back the earth regularly over the plants about
two inches deep. Draw the line again fifteen inches from
the first, and proceed as above, leaving a path two feet wide,
four inches from every fourth row. Some plant lettuce
and radishes between the rows, but it is not advisable,
though a crop of cabbages may be made in the alleys.
After the beds have been planted, rake them smooth,
and do not tread between the rows. Keep the edges
of the bed smoothly trimmed and even. ‘The beds
are made narrow to avoid the necessity of treading upon
them with the feet, as they should be left as light as pos-
sible, for lasting from ten to twenty years without work-
ing, the rains will render them compact, and walking upon
them would be very injurious. Water them daily in dry
weather until the plants are well-rooted. Watering in
dry weather in summer also is very beneficial. All weeds
must be removed as they appear. As salt applied while
the plants are young, is an excellent manure for this plant,
the weeds may be easily kept down by its application.
Old brine or refuse salt, in which meat or fish has been
packed, is better than any other, as it abounds in the
blood and juices of the meat, which are a most valuable
fertilizer. You need not fear applying too much salt, as
old beds have been covered an inch deep, and the plants

ASPARAGUS. 153

continued to thrive; but a sprinkling just sufficient to
make the soil look white, is enough. As soon as the plants
have turned yellow in the fall, cut them down close to the
ground, but be careful not to do this early, or they will
throw up new shoots and be muck weakened. Remove
the stalks and all weeds from the beds—cover the beds
with three or four inches of good stable manure, and let
them remain until time for the spring dressing. If you
have charcoal dust at command, a layer of an inch thick
over the manure will be found quite useful in preventing
the loss of ammonia. When the weather grows warm, the
latter part of February, with a three-tined asparagus or
manure fork, dig in the manure placed on the beds in the
fall, and loosen the earth four inches deep, taking care not
to wound the crowns of the plants. Give the beds a top-
dressing of salt as soon as growth commences, and water
freely in dry weather. Applications of liquid manure are
likewise very salutary. A good liquid manure for aspara-
gus is an ounce of guano and four ounces of salt to two
gallons of water. Guano or night soil composted with
charcoal, so as to be entirely inodorous, is also beneficially
applied at any time. Another slight covering of charcoal
dust, after the spring dressing, will be of service, and
make the shoots earlier. Until the bed is two years old,
the alleys should be also deeply dug and well-manured,
as the plants will derive much nourishment from them,
After that period the roots will extend so widely that they
cannot be worked without injury.

When the bed is one year old, it may, if it has been
well-treated, be sparingly gathered from. The plants, if
the season has been good, will be almost as well grown as
those a year older at the North. It should be cut before
the heads loose their compact form, when only four or five
inches above the ground. Remove the earth to the bot:

fo

154 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

tom of the stalk, and cut it off sloping with a pointed knife,
taking care not to wound any other shoots that may be
near it, as they are constantly putting forth from the
crowns. ‘Too many shoots should not be cut from the
beds, nor the gathering prolonged too late. Whenever
the bed puts up weak and small shoots, these should be
allowed to remain, which will increase the size of the
remaining shoots, and the future value of the bed. When
green peas become plentiful, it is high time the asparagus
bed should rest. After the cutting ceases, you may judge
from the size of the summer shoots the productiveness of
the bed the coming spring. These elaborate the food for
the future crop. The manure applied in autumn has but
little effect on the next spring’s shoots, but from its influ-
ence. the strong growth of the succeeding summer will
prepare an abundant supply of large shoots the second ~
spring. ‘The spring and autumn dressings should be con-
tinued while the bed lasts. Beds will remain productive
ten or fifteen years. By planting a hot-bed thickly with
thrifty roots, it comes into bearing in four weeks, and
affords asparagus for a month in the winter season. Give
plenty of air in mild weather.

For Sced—Reserve some of the best shoots in the
spring, and mark them by placing a stake by each one, and
let them run up and ripen their seeds. Take shoots with
fine, round, close heads; fasten them as they grow up to
the stake, and the seed will ripen better, Gather the seed
when ripe, and wash off the pulp and husk, which will
pass off with the water, if gently poured off, and the seeds
will sink to the bottom. Dry them thoroughly, and store
away for use. They are, for your own sowing, just as well
kept and sown in the pulp.

Asparagus seed will keep four years.

Use-—The tender shoots thrown up in the spring when

GRACH. — 155

from four or five inches long, are the parts in use, and are
very delicate and much esteemed, though not very nutri-
cious. They are excellent simply boiled, or as an addi-
tion to soups when in season.

To cook Asperagus.—Select the large green stalks, wash
them carefully, tie in bundles of twenty or thirty, put
them into boiling water with plenty of salt; boil slowly
twenty minutes; take them up with a skimmer without
draining, and lay them upon toasted bread well but-
tered.

Another mode is to cut it into bits half an inch long,
and boil the lower ends ten minutes before the points are
put in; then put in the points and boil ten minutes more;
serve as above.

Aériplex Hortensis—ORACH.

A hardy annual, a native of Tartary first cultivated by
English gardeners in 1548. The stem rises three or four
feet high with oblong variously-shaped leaves, cut at the
edges, thick, pale green, and glaucous,and of slightly acid
flavor, flowers of same color as the foliage. ‘There are
two varieties, the pale green, and the red or purple
leaved. :

Culture—Orach flourishes best in a rich, moist soil.

It is raised from seed sown in drills, fifteen to eighteen.
inches apart, the first of October. ‘The plants soon make
appearance; when an inch high thin them to four inches
asunder. Those removed may be replanted, being watered
occasionally until established. Hoe them in a dry day,
keeping the ground loose and free from weeds.

Use—The leaves and tender stalks are cooked and
eaten like spinach, to which it is preferred by, many.
They must be gathered while young, or they are worthless.
It belongs to the chenopods, Jerusalem oak tribe of

156 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

plants; a family whose wholesomeness is very suspicious
Its seeds are said to excite vomiting.
co)

Barbarea Precor—AMERICAN ORESS.

A biennial plant, with yellow flowers, the radical leaves
of which are lyre shaped, and the upper ones pinuatified,
and cultivated in some gardens as a winter salad. Often
it is called watercress at the South.

Sow either in drills or broadcast in a moist place, the
last of August, September, or early in October, giving
water in dry, hot weather. Let the plants remain six or
eight inches apart. Preserve a few good plants for seed.

Use—It is generally liked as a winter or early spring
salad somewhat like the watercress, but more bitter.

Barbarea Vulgaris—WINTER CRESS.

Resembles the foregoing, but is a perrennial plant with
larger leaves. ‘T’he use and culture are the same. Less
bitter than the foregoing.

Beta—BEET.

Of this genus there are two species cultivated in gar-
dens, viz.: Beta Cicla, and Beta Vulgaris—the latter of
which has many varieties.

Beta Vulgaris—ComMMon BEET. .

This is a biennial plant, a native of the seacoasts of the
south of Europe, and is said to have been cultivated for
its beautiful red roots long before its edible properties
were discovered.

It was introduced into England by Tradescant, in the
year 1656. Its name is said to come from the resem-
blance of its seed to the letter Beta of the Greek alphabet

BEET. 157

The catalogues contain a large number, of varieties of
which the best are :

Extra Early Turnip, or Bassano Beet—The root is
oval; color, pale red. Downing truly says “it is the
sweetest, most tender, and delicate of all beets;’’ but the
color boils out, so that it is not as beautiful as some others,
yet it is the best early beet and one of the easiest grown.
It is at least a week earlier than the Early Turnip Beet,
an excellent variety that succeeds it.

Radish Bect.—Is named from its similarity to the scarlet
radish in shape, though much larger. Color, very dark
blood red. Roots of this variety over a-half yard long
are not unusual. Its quality is excellent.

London Blood Beet—HIs a brilliant, dark-colored beet of
good form, and of a sweet and delicate flavor. The best
of the late beets.

These beets are best for family use, but if the seeds are
not obtainable, the Early Blood Turnip Rooted, Early
Long Blood, Extra Dark Blood, and White’s New Blood,
are all good varieties. The Early Long Blood grows
several inches above ground, and is more easily gathered
than any other variety.

The ashes of the beet root have been analyzed by Etti,
who found them to contain the following constituents :—

Potassa, ; ! i dsm 95 |
Soda, . , : ; : OE Le
Lime, . ; } ; : Su eas e725)
Magnesia, . : ; : 6.96
Sesquioxide of Leda : : : .09
Sulphuric Acid, . ; - 2.46
Carbonic Acid. bi, ; : . 29.10
Phosphoric Acid, : : 2.39
Chloride of Iodium, d ; Pan Dio:
Sand and Silicic Acid, é 14.11

101.34

158 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

The beet being a native of the sea-shore abounds in soda,
which can be supplied when deficient by an application of
common salt the autumn before planting. This and leached
or unleached ashes will afford nearly all the inorganic ele-
ments of the crop.

Beets can be planted in this climate, at any time from
January to March, and as late as April, with a little care
in shading and watering.

When the surface soil is rich and the bottom poor, it
will be difficult to make the beet, carrot, and other tap-
rooted plants produce fine, smooth roots. This difficulty
will cease if the ground be deeply and thoroughly worked,
mingling the soil and making it uniform throughout, and
taking care to place at the depth of one foot below the
surface a layer of good manure,

The best beets grow in sandy bottom lands, but any soil
will answer for them if deeply and thoroughly worked
and well manured. This is necessary with all tap-rooted
plants, and especially with the beet. Beet seed is some-
what slow in vegetating, and the later sowings may be
soaked in water twenty-four hours before planting; make
the beds four or four and a-half feet wide for convenience
of culttivaing; spade them up at least a foot deep,
eighteen inches is still better; mix in a good supply of
well-rotted manure throughout, if the ground requires it.
Rake the ground even and smooth, and mark out the
rows twelve inches apart across the bed; draw the drills
an inch and a-half or two inches deep, in which drop the
seed two inches apart, and press the earth gently upon it.
When the plants are up, thin them to six or eight inches
apart, and keep the ground around them loose and free
from weeds.

In planting crops of beets, carrots, and parsnips, par-
ticularly the two latter, it is well to sprinkle a few radish

BEET. 159

seed in the rows to distinguish them. The radishes will
be up in a week, and the ground can be hoed ‘or weeded
without any danger of destroying the young plants; and
pulling the radishes is cultivation to the young crop.
Drills can also be made between every two rows of beets,
making a drill every six inches, which can also be sown
with radishes or lettuce plants.

_T would never think of making beds exclusively for lettuce
plants or radishes, as these can be grown between other
vegetables without the loss of any room. But the ground
must be very rich, as all garden’ soil should be, to bring
forward both crops to perfection.

For early beets it is well to prepare a good bed under
glass in which the rows should be marked out a foot apart.
The ground should be deeply spaded and thoroughly
manured. Mark out your rows for the beets, and between
the first two draw a drill in which you can sow your early
York cabbage; between the next two you can raise all the
butter lettuce you wish to set out for heading. In the
rows of beets themselves you may sprinkle a a few radish
seed ; then a row of later head lettuce, tomatoes, egg-plant,
peppers, &c. The drills retained for the beets should be
sown in this climate with the Bassano beet about the tenth
of January. By the time the hard frosts are over, the
beets, cabbages, &c., will be fit to transplant. Thin out
to six inches apart, planting out those pulled up in the
open ground. In transplanting the beet a deep hole should
be made with a dibble, and the root not bent. Those that
remain in the bed will soon come into use, and by the time
they are gone the transplanted ones will come on for a
succession. For very late beets, sow in a cool, moist
place early in April; May or June would be still better,
if the sowings were not so difficult to keep from being killed
by the sun. Press the earth on the seed, and shade a

160 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

little until the plants come up; being sown later they will
keep much better, and indeed can be had in pretty good
condition through the entire winter. For this sowing, the
London blood beet is the best. A few radish seed may
be sown with them; after they come up they must be
thinned to ten inches apart, kept clean, and frequently
hoed—keeping the soil light and mellow. Any vacant
spaces in the row can be filled by transplanting. About
the middle of November, or when there is danger of a hard
frost, the roots can be taken up, dried a little and stored away
in casks with layers of dry sand, where they will keep in
good condition until spring. The mangel wurtzel beet is
much cultivated in some countries for feeding stock, and is
very good for the table when young and tender, but in our
long season it loses its sweetness before winter. Here
the sweet-potato, ruta-baga and other turnips are more
promising.

For Seed—Select a few of the finest looking plants,
smooth and well-shaped. Plant the different varieties as
far apart as possible, indeed it is better to save the seed
of only one kind the same year for fear of intermixture
and degeneracy. Keep them free from weeds and tie the
seed stalks to stakes to support them. Gather and dry
the seed as soon as ripe and put away in paper bags.
Keep dry and it will be good for ten years.

Use-—The young and tender tops are an excellent sub-
stitute for spinach. When thinned out, the young beets
pulled up, if cooked tops and bottoms, are very sweet and
and delicate.

When well grown they afford an agreeable variety to
our table vegetables, being tender, sweet, and consider-
ably nourishing. They also make an excellent pickle.
Ifeaten moderately, they are wholesome, but in too large
a quantity produce flatulence and indigestion. The leaves

WHITE BEET. 161

are said to abound in nitre; the roots are full of sugar,
and are largely cultivated in France for its manufacture.

To Bou.—Wash the beets, but do not cut or scrape
them. Boil from two to three hours (one hour will do
when they are young); when quite tender take them up
and plunge them into cold water for a minute or two, and
the outside skin will peel off easily. If they are young
_ beets they are best split into long pieces and seasoned
with pepper and butter; otherwise, slice them thin, when
quite cold, and pour vinegar over them.

When the beets get old they loose a good deal of their
sweetness, and are made fit for the table by sprinkling
each layer of beets when cut up while still hot with pow-
dered sugar, and after the slices have dissolved and ab-
sorbed this, add the vinegar and spices.

To Pickle—Boil them sufficiently tender to easily put a
fork through them; put them into cold vinegar, with a
little salt, set them in a cool place, and stir them often to
prevent any scum from rising.

Beta Cicda—Swiss CHARD, oR WHITE BEET

This is also called the sea-kale beet. There are two varie-
ties, the white and the green, which receive their names
from the color of their foot-stalks. Hither of these is
good. The plant very much resembles the common beet,
but the leaves and the stalks are much larger, thicker,
more tender and succulent, and Jess capable of resisting
frost.

The root of this plant is small, coarse, and of no value,
only the leaves and their stalks are employed, especially.
the latter, which are cooked and eaten as asparagus.

Culture—The culture is exactly the same as the com:
mon beet, except the plants should be twelve or more
inches apart. The soil may be richer and not so deep,

162 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

and the plants are more benefited by copious watering,
especially with liquid manure. The beds should be four
feet wide for convenience in culture. For winter use, the
leaves may be covered with litter and afford blanched leaf
stalks all winter. If the soil be moist and kept mellow,
and free from weeds, it will yield bountifully. Salt is a
beneficial manure for this crop, applied while preparing
the ground, as it keeps it moist. It is singular that a
plant of so easy culture and yielding during the entire
season after May a supply of the most delicate greens, has
not come into more general cultivation. 'Those who have
cultivated it once in good soil will hardly be willing to do
without it. To preserve seed, see “ Beta Vulgaris.”

Use-—The leaves, stalks, and all are boiled as summer
greens; or the midrib and stalk may be peeled and boiled
separately from the rest of the leaf and prepared as
asparagus for which they are an excellent substitute. In
gathering, the largest outside leaves should first be taken
and the inner ones left to increase in size, taking care to
gather them while still perfectly green and vigorous.
The leaf-stalks are greatly improved if earthed-up like
celery.

To Boil—Strip the leaves from their stalks ; boil them
very quickly ; drain and press very close, and serve with
melted butter. The stalks tie in bundles; boil till tender;
dress, and serve as asparagus.

Brassica—THE CABBAGE TRIBE.

This tribe, perhaps the most important cultivated in our
gardens, includes the cabbage, turnip, cauliflower, broccoli,
Brussels, sprouts, rape, and kale. It seems to be one of
the most ancient in cultivation, and was a well-known
favorite with the Romans. Lindley observes, that of this
genus there are nearly a thousand species scattered over

CABBAGE TRIBE. 163

the face of the earth, of which all are harmless, and many
are highly useful.

For the seed-bed the soil should be a moist loam, but
more dry in the case of plants which are to stand the
winter. .

For final production most plants of this genus like a
fresh, moderately clayey loam, very rich. A moist cool
bottom suits them admirably; such of them as are to stand
the winter in the open ground should be grown in a lighter
soil, not over rich. Good well decomposed stable manure
is usually employed in preparing the soil for this genus.
Pure hog manure is objectionable, as it causes any of the
cabbage tribe to become clump-rooted and loose their
regularity of shape; if mixed with a very large proportion
of leaf mould, or other carbonaceous matter, and thoroughly
decomposed, it ceases to be objectionable. A plentiful
application of salt the autumn before planting, say at the
rate of eight or ten bushels per acre, is very beneficial to
this tribe as it destroys the cutworm and keeps the soil
moist and cool. Bone-dust and especially superphosphate
of lime has a very surprising effect upon them, far more
than analysis would lead one to suppose.

The ground is advantageously dug twice the depth of a
spade, and should be well pulverized by the operation.
All of the cabbage tribe are particularly benefited by
frequent and deep cultivation ; they especially like to have
the soil about them thoroughly worked while the dew is on
them. 'There will be a very great difference in the growth
of two plats of cabbages treated alike in other respects,
one of which shall be hoed at sunrise, and the other at
mid-day; the growth of the former will surprisingly exceed
that of the latter. But you cannot hoe the cabbage tribe
too much for their benefit even if daily. The situation
must be open and free from all shade or drip of trees; if

164 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

shaded from the mid-day sun, it is an advantage, but it
must not be by trees. In the shade of trees and other
- confined situations, they are much more subject to be
infested with caterpillars, and to grow weak and spindling
In planting out, any of which the roots are knotted and
clumped should be réjected.

Brassica Oleracea—CABBAGE.

This vegetable has been long in cultivation. Pliny
mentions the headed varieties, and it was then held in
high esteem, not only as an esculent, but for its supposed
medicinal properties ; it is a sea-shore plant, indigenous in
various parts of Europe and in England; the wild variety
is known as sea colewort, bearing but a few leaves, and
those far from palatable, unless boiled in two waters to
remove its saltness. The cultivated variety was probably
introduced into England by the Romans, and the common
name doubtless comes from the Latin Caput or head.
This is one of the most useful crops in cultivation. Cab-
bages are eatable almost from the time they leave the seed
bed until they have acquired a hard close head; it isa
crop that can be put on every bit of otherwise idle ground.
It can be planted between beds and rows of any and every-
thing else to be eaten as greens when young, or left to
head on the coming off of other crops, and if there should
be a superabundance above the wants of the family and
servants, nothing is better for the cow and the pig. For
early cabbage it is necessary to rely upon English seed, as
the seed of the early varieties, saved in this country grow
later by our culture, soil and climate. For late cabbage,
the American seeds are superior to the imported, and pro-
duce finer and larger heads. No seed for late cabbage is
better than our own, if saved from fine large heads. But
all the late cabbages in this hot climate without proper

CABBAGE. 165

care, are prone to degenerate and run up into collards.
There are many varieties of cabbage. ‘The best varieties
I have cultivated are the following :—

Early York has been cultivated for more than a century.
Heads small, a little heart shaped and very firm; its small
size enables it to be grown in rows a foot apart each way,
giving over 40,000 heads to the acre. Its earliness. and
fine delicate flavor make it a favorite, as the very best
early sort for general purposes.

Large Eurly York, or Landreth Large York, succeeds
the above, and is equally desirable. It is of larger size,
ot quite so early and more robust, and bears the heat
petter,and in this latitude will often continue in eating all
summer.

Early Dutch is an excellent variety that connects the
early and late sorts, and is one of the very best in culture.
It is succeeded by the

Flat Dutch or drumhead, which is a large spreading,
short-stemmed variety, flat on the top, close headed, firm in
texture, and if headed late keeps well and is of better
flavor than

Bergen, which is also a drumhead cabbage, but larger;
a little coarser and one of the best for late keeping.

Green Glazed, in this climate is a more sure variety,
as it is more capable of resisting the caterpillar and other
insects which infest the other varieties, but it is a coarse
variety with very loose heads. |

Red Dutch, used principally for pickling, and should be
sown at the same time with the drumheads. Early York
and Flat Dutch are the best of the above kinds.

The analysis of the drumhead cabbage is given below.
One thousand pounds of the plant when burned, produced
eight pounds and four tenths of ash, which was composed
of the following constituents :—

166 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Silicie Acid, . ‘ ; ‘ ; .06
Sulphuric Acid, : ‘ ; iyisdk lle
Phosphoric Acid, . : : ’ 1 27
Phosphate of cate. : - : ee

Lime, . : : f 29
Magnesia, ? : F 9 ayes
Potash, . ; ; ' ‘ 2.09
Soda, . : 3 : epee et
Chlorine, é : ; i : .08

The above analysis is by J. H. Salisbury, who also
analyzed several other varieties. He found them all to
contain a very large proportion of azote; after evaporating
the water, drumhead cabbage gives of azote 17.899 parts
in a hundred; savoy 20.763; red 16.212; turnip rooted
19.052. We also find this plant remarkably rich in phos-
phorus and sulphur, hence its unpleasant smell in decay,
like that of animal matter. It abounds also in soda and
potash. Hence, common salt to yield soda and chlorine,
wood ashes for potash, bone for phosphoric acid, and
gypsum, to add sulphur and lime together with a soil
saturated with manure of animals, especially the liquid
excretion, all come in play in making fine cabbage.
Frequent stirring the soil, too, will rob the atmosphere of
its ammonia for the same purpose.

Cultwre—For early use seeds of the Early York may
be sown from January to March. If sown as early as the
1st of January, cover them slightly with litter to protect
from frosts; but it is much better to sow them under a
cold frame as directed in the article “ Beet.” If sown in
the open air, as soon as the weather grows mild, take off
the litter. The seed should be sown in drills, six inches
apart, and one inch deep, and the ground deeply dug, but
it need not be, for this sowing, very rich. Water in mild
mornings if the weather be dry, and give them the advan-
tage of the rains; give the young plants plenty of air

CABBAGE. 167

every mild day, and by the time the weather will admit,
they will be ready to transplant. At this sowing should
also be put in a few seed of the Large York and Early
Dutch to succeed the early crop.

Early cabbage seed may also be sown early in Septem-
ber or October in the open ground; watering every two
or three evenings when dry, as it usually is this month.
The plants will appear in about a week, and a little soot
should be scattered over them to prevent the attacks of
insects. When large enough to transplant, they can be
set very thick in a cold frame or box, to stand over the
winter. Cover over with glass, or boards if you have not
glass, during severe weather, but give air every mild day
and set out when the weather grows mild in the spring.
A still better way is, instead of putting the plants in a
frame, throw a piece of ground into high ridges, two feet
apart, running east and west. On the south side of these
ridges, set out the plants a foot apart, so that they will be
shielded from the cold north winds, and enjoy the full -
warmth of the sun. Plant on the sides of the ridges and
not in the trench. When the weather grows severe in
December, cover slightly with straw or litter; remove it
when mild weather returns, and cultivate as usual, gra-
dually levelling the ridges, and you will have cabbages
earlier than by any other mode; the ground should be
good. if you raise your plants in the cold frame they
will be ready to transplant from the 20th to the last of
February. They will be very liable to be eaten off by
the cutworm when transplanted. There are two modes
of preventing this, either of which, with me, is perfectly
satisfactory. ‘The best method is to sow the ground in-
tended for cabbage the autumn after being spaded up, with
salt at the rate of eight bushels psr acre. On a part of my

168 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

garden thus treated last November, I have not found a
eutworm this year (1852). If this has been done you
may plant your Early Yorks at a distance of twelve inches
each way. If you have not already sown your cabbage
plat with salt, there is another plan to keep off the cut-
worm equally successful. Throw your ground into ridges
and trenches sixteen inches apart; let these trenches be
at least six inches deep. In the bottom of these trans-
plant your cabbages, one foot apart. Some use a dibble,
but a trowel is much better, as it does not leave the soil
hard. Prepare your ground in dry weather, but choose a
moist day for transplanting. It is a good plan to wet the
roots before planting out. When they get rooted stir the
soil gently about them, but do not fill up the trenches
until the plants are so large that there is no danger of the
worm. This method of protecting cabbages was pointed
out to me by a negro gardener several years since, and
I have tried it repeatedly. The worm will not go down
into the trenches to destroy the plants.

When the plants get strong the ground should be deeply
and repeatedly hoed. Do this while the dew is on, and
retain its ammonia in the soil. The cabbage is partial to
moisture, so hoe it frequently, and when you go out in the
morning you will find the plat moist with dew, while the
unstirred soil around is dry as ever. The only secret in
raising early cabbage is, set your plants in rich ground
and stiz the soul. On poor ground (and even on rich if half
tended) they will run into collards. Stézr the soil and less
manure is required.

For the middle crop to last through the summer, the
seed can be sown as above, or any time until the middle
of March. The cultivation is the same, except that the
plants should be set about sixteen to eighteen inches apart.

CABBAGE. 169

The varieties are the Large York and Early Dutch. ‘These
will not head unless the ground be rich, rather moist, and,
above all, diligently worked.

The late crop and the Red Dutch, for pickling, you
may sow in February or March, or any other time there-
after, until the 1st of August. The best timeis.about the
ist of April. The early sown should not be transplanted
until July or August. Let the ground be well-spaded, and
thoroughly manured. They must be set in the ground up to
the first leaf, no matter how long the stem may be, or they will
not head. They also require a rich soil, but not from fresh
manure. The manure for the cabbage crop should be
thoroughly decomposed, or the plants will be covered with
aphides or cabbage lice. The best way is to throw the
ground into ridges from two to two and a half feet apart,
making the trenches between more or less deep, according
to the length of the stems; wet the roots thoroughly and
transplant in moist weather, carefully transplanting them
with a trowel, and when the ground gets dry draw the
earth level, which should just reach up to the lower leaves.
If seed of any of the cabbage tribe be sown after the
weather grows warm, the soil must be pressed upon it by
walking on a board, and it must be shaded by a covering
of boards or pine brush during the day, removing it at night,
until the plants get a little established. If the weather is
warm and wet, the covering may be dispensed with.

After the late cabbages are transplanted let them be
well cultivated by deep and frequent hoeing, and don’t
strip off the lower leaves if you wish them to head.

__. Many remedies are employed to keep off the green

worm, so destructive to the cabbage tribe. An infusion of

tobacco or of the ripe berries of the Pride of China tree,

sprinkled on them once or twice a week from a water-pot,

is said to be effectual. Sprinkling with ashes is a good
8

170 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

practice; alsoto coop a brood of chickens near, as they
destroy the worm without injury to the cabbage. Break off
a leaf at night and place it on the top of the head. In the
morning early most of the worms will be on this leaf. Brush
them off into a dish of soapsuds. Repeat this daily until the
worms are destroyed. Aphides are not so apt to be trouble-
some when the plants are in vigorous growth ; an applica-
tion of strong soapsuds generally destroys them. Dry
charcoal dust mixed with Scotch snuff and dusted over them
is however, the most certainremedy. Air-slacked lime in
which a few drops of spirits of turpentine have been dif-
fused, will generally drive away both aphides and the
green worm. The green glazed not being liable to be at-
tacked by worms or insects is much the most reliable for a
late crop, if it was only as good for the table.

To preserve Cabbage.—Heel them in, in a dry situation,
to their lower leaves, and cover slightly with plank, straw
or pine brush, to keep them from freezing and thawing
during the winter.

To save Seed—This should be attempted in this climate
only with the late varieties which should be planted at a
distance from turnips and all other members of this family,
or they will intermix. Set out some of the best Aeads in
the spring, support the stems as they rise by stakes, and
gather the seed before it scatters. Seed will keep four
years.

Use-——Cabbage as an article of food is not so remark-
able for its fattening properties as for its power of supply-
ing strength for labor by producing muscle and bone, which
it owes to its abundant nitrogen and phosphates. Hence
it is very nutritious for, and much relished by laboring
people in all parts of the world, but is apt to disagree
with those of quiet and sedentary habits. Wath the latter
et is more wholesome and digestible if eaten wncooked. Many

+

SAVOY CABBAGE, - rl

persons can eat “ cold slaugh” with impunity that are un-
able to use boiled cabbage without great inconvenience.
It is by many much relished when made into sauer kraut.
It is also pickled.

To Boil—Remove the loose leaves quarter the stump
end of the cabbage, wash it perfectly clean, and boil from
half an hour to an hour. If not boiled with salt meat, add
a little salt; a little saleratus improves its color.—WMrs.
Webster.

Sauer Kraut—Shred very finely six white cabbages,
having cut out the stalks; mix with them half a pound
of salt, and- press them as closely as possible into a cask ;
put over a cloth, then a wooden cover, and upon that a
heavy weight; let it stand in a warm cellar two months,
keeping the liquor that rises on it, and it will be fit for use;
it should then be removed to a cooler place—WMrs. Hale.

Sauer kraut for the table should be boiled or stewed.

To Pickle. ‘Take off the outside leaves, quarter, cut
out the stalk, shred the cabbage into a cullender and
sprinkle with common salt; let the cabbage remain a day
or two, when drain it, put it into jars, and fill up with
boiling vinegar; add spices to your taste.

Brassica Oleracea Subauda—Savoy CABBAGE.

The Savoy, which is one of the best winter vegetables,
probably derives its name from Savoy in Europe. It
differs from the cabbage in the rugosity of its leaves. All
its varieties are hardy, being rendered more sweet and
tender by frost. ‘The only two varieties of Savoy worthy
of culture are: |

Curled Savoy—An excellent winter variety, much im-
proved in sweetness and tenderness by frost. It does not
head firmly, but is very fine flavored, and even the outside
leaves are tender and palatable.

172 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Drumhead Savoy is almost as large and firm as the
drumhead cabbage, and keeps very well. The head is
round, flattened at top. It is nearly as delicate as the
curled variety.

The Savoys are not as certain a crop as the other
cabbages, but far superior in delicacy. They are nearly
equal to cauliflowers.

The chemical composition of the Savoy is similar te
that of other cabbages, but it contains two per cent. less
water. It culture from seed is precisely the same as
drumhead cabbage. For cooking, see “ Cabbage.”

Brassica Oleracea Subauda—(sub-variety )—BRUssELS
SPROUTS.

This plant is a hardy variety of the Savoy, producing
an elongated stem, often four feet high and crowned with
leaves similar to the Savoy, in the axis of which spring
small green heads like cabbages. The leaves dropping
off leave the little heads arranged spirally around the stem
as the plant proceeds in growth. Like the other Brassicas,
Brussels Sprouts are raised from seed, which may be sown
in April. Set the plants in rows one and a half feet apart
each way, and treat in all respects as directed for winter
cabbage. Cut off the leaves at the top of the stem
some ten days or a fortnight before the little heads are
gathered.

For Seed—Cut off the top of the stem and permit the
flower stalks to spring from the little heads only. Keep
at a distance from all the other varieties of Brassica if
you would have pure seed.

Use—The top boiled for winter greens is very delicate
in flavor and similar to the Savoy. But the little sprouts
after they have been touched with frost, which very
much improves them, are the parts most used. The

GERMAN GREENS. 173

sprouts are fit for use all winter, and may be left in the
open ground.

To Boil—Soak them in clear water one hour, and wash
free from dust andinsects. Boil them twenty minutes or
until tender in plenty of water. Drain them well, season
with pepper, salt, &c., to taste, a sauce of cream or floured
butter, in which stew them gently, stirring them con-
stantly ; or they may be cooked simply as cabbages and
eaten with meats.

Brassica Oleracea Fimbriata—BoRECOLE—GERMAN
GREENS.

This is the easiest cultivated, and for this climate, one
of the most valuable of the cabbage tribe. This plant has
large curled or wrinkled leaves forming an open head or
stool, and such a hardy constitution that it resists the
severest frosts which serve only to improve it. It remains |
ereen and eatable all winter without the least protection.

The only two varieties I have tried are the German
Greens and the Siberian Kale, either one of which is good
enough as far as quality or ease of culture is concerned.
They can scarcely be distinguished, but the Siberian Kale
is a perennial, and is perhaps preferable on that account

Culture—Raised from seed like the rest of the cabbage
tribe, which you may sow in April with your winter cab-
bages and treat in the same manner. ‘Transplant, if Ger-
man Greens, into rows eighteen inches apart and twelve
inches in the row. Give it a good soil.

The other variety requires about the same spaces as
with cabbage. JI have an excellent crop growing this
year, 1852, sown the first of August, and treated exactly
the same as Ruta Baga turnip.

The outside leaves can be cut off for use when from

174 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

seven to nine inches long, leaving the others to come on in
succession, affording a supply all winter. Its only enemy
is the aphis or cabbage louse, for which try Scotch snuff
and oil of turpentine.

Seed.—Select some of the best heads and leave for seed,
at a distance from any others of this family, and proceed
as with cabbage. The seed will keep four years.

Use—This vegetable affords very delicate winter and
spring greens, far superior to cabbage, and nearly equal
to the Savoy. It boils well and is most delicate, sweet
and tender when touched by frost.

To boal—Put in boiling water with a little salt, boil
briskly twenty minutes, and serve as other greens.

Brassica Oleracea Botrytis—CAuLIFLOWER.

This plant was introduced into England from the Island
of Cypress, in the early part of the seventeenth century. It
is a kind of cabbage with long pale green leaves, surround-
ing a mass or head of white flower buds—in-short, “a giant
rose wrapped in a green surtout,”’ but much more like a
mass of fresh curds than a rose. Since its introduction, it
has been much improved by the skill of the gardener.
The seed is generally imported from Europe.

Varieties——There are several varieties early and late,
but the late are the only ones that generally come to any-
thing in this climate. Of the latter, there is the old variety,
Late Dutch or Late London, which I have succeeded with,
and is perhaps as good as any, though the late Walcheren
comes highly recommended for hardiness, and may be
worth a trial.

The ashes of Cauliflower have been analyzed by
Richardson, and found to be composed of the pam:
constituents -

’ CAULIFLOWER. 175

Potassa, ; : - - j 34.39

Soda, : : t : : . 14.79
Lime, - : ° . : 2.96
Magnesia, q : : : gy Brea
Sulphuric Acid, . : - - 11.16
Silicie Acid, . ? é : Sy EO

Phosphoric Acid, 4 : : 25.84
Phosphate of Iron, . : : - 3.67
Chloride of Sodium, . : ; 2.78

99.89

Cauliflower requires the same special manures as cab-
bage. There is much less difficulty in its cultivation near
the sea-shore than inland. The ground should receive a
dressing of common salt as directed for cabbage.

Culture.—lIt is very little use to try to raise the early
cauliflower. Sow however in September, and cover
through the winter in a frame; transplanted into beds ten
inches apart under glass, giving air as much as possible;
plant out as early as is safe in February, carefully taking
them up with a trowel, in order not to disturb the roots,
placing them in rich ground two feet apart. Insert the
stem inthe earth nearly up to the first leaves. Shield
them with boxes from heavy frosts and some will come to
perfection.

In a proper soil and location, the late varieties can be
raised nearly as easy as cabbage. The best time to sow
is about the first of April, though plants with care can
be raised from that time until July. An ounce of seed
will yield three or four thousand plants. The seed
bed should be rich and deeply dug ; if the weather be dry,
shade them a little by day until the seed gets up strong,
and water them occasionally. ‘The drills may be eight
inches apart in-the seed bed. Thin out the plants to six
Inches. They can be planted out at the same time with

iE ie GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

winter cabbage. Protect them from the cut-worm, and
insects in the same manner. If possible, give them a plat
of moist bottom soil, made very rich with well decomposed
manure. ‘Take them up carefully with a trowel that the
roots may not be injured, and plant in rows two feet
asunder each way; water freely when needed, which in
dry weather is every other day at least; if with liquid
nanure so much the better. Let them never suffer from
drought ; they will show when they need water by their
drooping leaves. Soapsuds is an excellent application.
Keep the ground hoed deeply and thoroughly about them,
especially the day after each watering, that it may not bake.

The hills should be hollowed about the cauliflower like a
shallow basin to retain moisture. The head may be blanch-
ed by bending the leaves and confining them loosely with a
string. They will head in succession during the autumn.

When a cauliflower has reached its full size, which is
shown by the border opening as if about to seed, the plant
should be pulled, and if laid entire in this state in a cool
place may be kept several days. They should be pulled
in the morning, for if gathered in the middle or evening of
a hot day, it boils tough. "When there is danger of severe
frost injuring the cauliflowers that have not already
headed, they may be protected by pine boughs or empty
boxes or barrels where they stand—or pulled up with the
earth attached to the roots, and removed to a cellar or out-
building, where they will flower in succession all winter.
In the low country this will hardly be necessary, and the
spring crop is I believe more certain with them. —

For Seed —Set out, in spring, some of the finest heads,
with fine, close flower-buds, and proceed as with cabbage.
It is very liable to intermix with the other Brassieas ; ‘so
that it is best to depend upon English seed. Seed will
keep three or four years. |

BROCOLT. ivi

Use—The heads or flowers boiled, generally wrapped
in a clean linen cloth, are served up as a. most delicate
dish. “Of all the flowers in the garden,’ says Dr. John-
son, ‘give me the cauliflower.” Itis one of the very best
of vegetable products, and so prized wherever known. It
is nutritious and wholesome even for invalids, beside being
avery ornamental addition to the table.

To Boil—Cut off the green leaves, and look carefully
that there are no caterpillars about the stalk; soak an
hour in cold water, with a handful of salt in it; then boil
them in milk and water, and take care to skim the sauce-
pan, that not the least foulness may fail on the flower. It
must be served up very white, and rather crimp, with
sauce, gravy, or melted butter-—Mrs. Hale.

Brassica Oleracea Botrytis Cymosa~-BRocol.t.

This plant differs from cauliflower in its undulating
leaves, its larger size, and its color. Itis supposed to have
originated from the cauliflower; is a hardier plant, but not so
delicate in flavor. It has been cultivated about two hundred
years, and was introduced into England from Italy. Brocoli
is raised much more easily than cauliflower. The purple
cape brocoli, producing large brownish heads, very close and
compact, is the best for this climate. The analysis of broe-
oli, by Richardson, shows the following constituents :

ROOTS. LEAVES.
Potassa, A é : 47.16 22.10
Soda, : : : 7.55
Lime, . g i : 4.70 26.44
Magnesia, dhs i 9'3.93 3.43
Sulphuric acid, : : 10.35 16.10
Silicice acid, : : i .69 1.83
Phosphoric acid, . : 24.83 16.62
Phosphate of Iron, . oe odo 6.21
Chloride of Potassium, 6.22
Chloride of Sodium, . trace.

100.00 100.28
8*

178 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

It requires the same special manures as the cabbage and
cauliflower.

Culture— Brocoli can be sown in April, or by shading
the seed-beds during the day, until the plants get strong,
as late as the middle of July. For this and cauliflower
the seed-beds should be rich, and the plants well watered
in dry weather. The drills should be eight inches apart,
and the plants thinned out to six inches in the drills.
The plants thinned out may be set out in another place to
grow. These will make the best heads. Transplant,
when each stem shows five or six leaves, covering the
stem to the lower leaf, in rows two feet apart each way.
Do this with a trowel, in dull, damp weather, and shade,
if necessary, until the plants are established. Protect
from insects with snuff, &c., as directed for cabbage.
Choose the same situation as for cauliflower, and follow
the same mode of treatment throughout, especially the
frequent hoeing and watering.

Use and Mode of Cooking —See Cauliflower.

Brassica Napo Brassica—TurRNiIP CABBAGE. Brassica
Caulo Rapa—TuRNIP-ROOTED CABBAGE.

These two species of brassica are little cultivated. The
turnip cabbage grows above ground, pretty well up the
stem, in a globular form, with a few leaves on top. The
purple-stemmed variety is best. Its culture is the same
as the cabbage, except that in hoeing care must be taken
not to throw dirt into the heart of the plant, or the bulb
cannot form. They should be hoed flatly. Sow in April.

The turnip-rooted cabbage is similar in quality to the
above, but the bulbs grow near the origin of the stem. It
does not succeed so well transplanted. It is cultivated
exactly like the Ruta Baga turnip. There are two vyari-
oties, the white and the red. It is easily raised in any

TURNIP. 179

coil, if well manured. More weight per acre can be ob-
tained by these crops than by the turnip, and they are of
equal value.

Use—Turnip cabbage, when the size of a large turnip,
is an excellent vegetable. If cut into slices one-quarter
of an inch thick, and boiled until very tender, it resem-
bles the cauliflower in flavor. The thick skin being re-
moved, it may be cooked like a turnip. When full grown,
it is used for feeding stock. It will endure our winter
without protection.

Brassica Rapa—Turnip.

This root was held in considerable estimation by the
Romans. Cato is the first writer that mentions it. “Sow
it,”’ says he, “after an autumnal shower, in a place that is
well manured, or in a rich soil.’ Columella recommends
its cultivation, “ because that portion of the crop not wished
for the table will be greedily eaten by the farm cattle.” It
is a biennial plant, now cultivated in all temperate climes.
It is now extensively raised as a field crop in England, for
feeding stock, and is considerably raised for the same pur-
pose in our northern States.

Early White Dutch (strap-leaved)—A round, flat tur-
nip, with short, narrow, strap-like leaves, is the earliest kind.

Early R:d Top Dutch (strap-leaved), differs from the
' preceding only in the red color of the portion of the roots
which is above ground. Both of these, in a moist, cool
fall, are fit for the table six weeks after sown.

Yellow Dutch will stand any degree of frost pe es |
is fine flavored, and very nutritious. It is of a yellow
color, round, handsome shape, firm and sweet, and keeps
well. I prefer it to the Swedes for winter use, and would
select this, if confined to one kind, for the garden.

White French resembles the Swedes, but not so smooth;

180 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

flesh white, and exceedingly sweet and excellent; a fine
keeper.

Purple-topped Swede—Foliage differs from the foregoing,
being smooth and covered with glaucous blooms. It is
hardy and very nutritious. The roots are very large, of
an oval tapering form and unlike the foregoing ; the greater
their size, the sweeter and more nourishing they become.
It keeps until spring. |

Skirving’s Improved Swede—This is of still better form
than the foregoing, the leaves not so large, less smooth
and free from bloom; flesh fine, yellow, and very
nutritious.

Skirving’s Swede. Commen White.
ROOT. LEAVES. ROOT. LEAVES.

Potassa, . s 36.16 20.36 48.56 12.68
Soda, . : - 4.99 — —_ —

Lime, a Peete 4 Eao 23.99 6.73 28.73
Magnesia, . . ea 2.92 2.26 2.85
Sesquioxide of Iron, .28 1.90 .66 80
Sulphuric acid, . 11.26 6.50 12.86 7.83
Silica, . : rep dhiGe 4.11 96 2.05
Carbonic acid, . 9.54 6.16 14.82 14.64
Phosphoric acid, 12.51 6.54 7.65 3.15
Chloride of Potassium — oar — 15.56

Chloride of Sodium, 9.77 17.69 5.44 10.67

99.94 99.94 99.94 98.9€

Per-centage of Ash in
the dry substance, § 7.30 11.30 7.40 15.2¢

Per-centage of Ash in ;
88

fresh substance, Gt .o9 1.82

The analyses here given are by Way and Ogston
‘They indicate that potash, lime, sulphuric, and phosphorie
acid may be applied to this crop with advantage. In
practice, however, it is found that the most important ele-
ment to be added is phosphate of lime. Either bone dust

TURNIP. 181

superphosphate, of lime or guano, all rich in phosphoric
acid, seems to supply everything this crop requires.
Manured with these, it is soon beyond the reach of in-
sects and casualities. A mixture of the two latter with
the sulphate of ammonia, known as improved superphos-
phate of lime, is probably the best of all manures for this
crop.

Culture—The turnip likes a rich sandy soil. If raised
on ground manured by cow-penning, the crop rarely fails,
as the urine deposited in the soil affords the phosphates
so necessary for this crop, and in such places it is far less
infested with insects. Soil fresh from the woods also suits
them. ‘The seed from the north is three or four weeks
earlier than that raised here, and should be chosen for the
early crop; for the main crop our own seed is good enough
if carefully raised.

Sow early turnips in February, in drills one foot apart,
in ground well dug and thoroughly manured. Draw the
drills one inch deep. Keep the soil free from weeds. As
soon as the plants get a little strong, thin out to two
inches, and finally to six inches in the row. If the ground
is not kept light and well worked, and the plants properly
thinned, it.is a mere waste of time and seed. The early
white dutch from northern seed is the kind to be pre-
ferred. They do much better in drills than broadcast.

For fall turnips, sow the early white dutch, red top and
yellow dutch any time in August and September, broadcast
or better in drills, as directed above. If broadcast, thin
them to about twelve inches apart or more. If sown just
before a rain on the surface, the rain will bring them up
at once. Soot, wood, ashes, and unslacked lime are all
useful to promote growth and drive away insects. The
red-top is an excellent variety for a general fall crop, and
may be sown in Ortober even with success.

~

182 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

The Ruta Baga or Improved Swede shguld be selected
for a crop to stand the winter. Plant pure seed or none ;
the middle or last of July or early in August, just before
a shower if possible. Let the drills be two feet apart, and
thin the plants by degrees until twelve or fifteen inches
in the row. As soon as the plants appear, loosen the
earth about them. It requires a richer soil than the other
varieties. Any vacancies in the row can be filled by
transplanting, which will make nearly as large roots as the
others. Keep the soil light and mellow by the use of the
hoe. Large crops can be tended with the plough and
cultivator to great advantage. . In good soil the yield is
immense. The crop may be drawn as needed, some should
be drawn before they begin to grow up to seed and stored
in a cool place for late keeping.

To save Seed —Select a few of the best roots, shorten the
tap root and plant them two feet apart. Tie the stalks to
stakes, keep them at a distance from all other members
of the cabbage tribe. Ruta Raga will rarely make seed
in this climate. Seed of the turnip should be changed every
few years as the plant degenerates. It keeps three years.

Use-—This is one of those useful vegetables that can
be enjoyed with everything. The tops gathered in winter
and spring make very good greens. The roots are whole-
some, though they disagree with some stomachs. They
are considerably nutricious also; four ounces of white
dutch containing eighty-five grains of nutritive matter,
and four ounces of Ruta Baga containing one hundred and
ten grains of the same. Any over supply of this crop may
be fed with great advantage to the cow or boiled for
the pigs.

To Boil—Turnips are good vegetables with boiled or
roasted meat. Wash, peel, slice, and boil until quite soft,
then mash with a little butter, pepper and salt.

; ROQUE TT—RAPE, 188

Brassica Eruca—RoQueETT.

This is an annual plant from France, of which the
leaves are used as a salad. Sow thinly in drills a foot
apart in February and March. Water frequently if neces-
sary, which will lessen the acrid taste of the young leaves
gather young; not much cultivated.

Brassica Napus Oleifera—RaPre.

Rape is a biennial plant, a native of England, with
glaucous radical leaves and yellow flowers, appearing
early in Spring.

Culture—Sow at the same time with cresses and mus-
tard in winter and spring. Sow in drills or beds and
follow the culture directed for white mustard. Rape sown
like turnips the first of September, will survive the frosts
and afford an abundance of fine greens the latter part of
winter and early in spring.

Two or three plants sown in August and kept over,
will flower and seed the next year abundantly.

Use-——~The seed leaves are gathered young for a small
salad with cresses and mustard. Later it is used like
mustard for winter greens. This plant is much cultivated
in Europe to express the oil from its seeds.

Brassica Napus Esculenta—EDIsLE-ROOTED RAPE,
or FRENCH TURNIP.

This is sometimes cultivated as a substitute for the
turnip. The root is white, carrot-shaped, about the size
of the middle finger. It is much grown in Germany and
Trance.

Culture-—It is raised from seed which may be sown
in August or September, and requires the same treatment
as turnip. It likes a sandy soil, and if grown in too rich

184 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

earth it loses its sweetness. In dry weather, the beds
must be watered regularly until the plants get three or
four leaves. To save seed, see “ Turnip.”

Use.—It is much used in continental cookery, and en-
riches all the French soups. Stewed in gravy, it forms
an excellent dish, and being white and carrot-shaped,
when mixed with those roots upon a dish, it is very or-
namental. In using, there will be no necessity of cutting
away the outer rind, in which the flavor chiefly resides.
Scraping will be quite sufficient

Calodium Esculentum™*—TANYAH.

This is a large-leaved, bulbous-rooted plant much culti-
vated at the Sandwich Islands, and forms the principle in-
gredient in the favorite por, a food much in use there, and
remarkable for its fattening properties.

Culture—It may be planted in any rich, well-drained
low spot. Select the eyes or buds, and plant like the
potato. The small roots are the ones generally reserved for
this purpose. There are two distinct kinds named from
their color the pink and the blue, of which the latter is
thought by many to be the most farinaceous, but others
prefer the taste of the pink variety. The sets may be
put out in March or early in April, and the most attention
required is to keep the soil clean and mellow. The rows
may be three or four feet apart, and the plants two feet in
the rows. It-comes to maturity the autumn after planting
and may remain in the bed until wanted, It keeps better
than either the sweet or Irish potato. It is prepared for
the table by simple roasting, and eaten with salt. By _
many they are much liked, as they are quite farinaceous.

* Colocasia Esculenta Lind?

POT MARIGOLD—RAMPION. 185

Calendula Oficinalis—PotT M:RriGoLp

An annual; native of France, Spain, and the South of
Europe. Its bright yellow flowers give it a place in the
flower-garden. A few plants only are needed by any
family.

There are two varieties, the single and double; the
former of which is a little the highest flavored. Sow in
autumn or early in spring on a good mellow soil in drills,
one foot apart or broadcast; when the plants are up, thin
them to twelve or fifteen inches apart, or transplant them
that distance if you wish more plants. Water till estab-
lished. The ilowers, during the summer, must be gathered,
dried thoroughly in the shade, and put up in paper bags.
Leave a few fine flowers for seed. The darkest-colored
ones are the best. The flower is a valuable ingredient in
soups, and the leaves were formerly infused for agues.
The plant is now but little used.

Campanula Rapunculus—RamPIion.

This is an English biennial plant, with a long white
spindle-shaped root, lower leaves oval lanceolate, with a
pannicle of blue bell-shaped flowers in June. It has a
milky juice. 3

Culture—Sow the seed in April in a rich, shady border.
It likes a moist, rich soil not too stiff. The seed must be
very slightly covered, but the earth should be pressed
upon it. As the plants grow, thin them to four inches
apart, and pull them before they run to seed.

To save seeds, allow some of the best plants to remain.

Use—The root is eaten raw like a radish, and has a
pleasant, nutty flavor. Cultivated only by those in seareh
of variety.

186 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Capsicum Annuum—PEPPER.

Of this plant there are several species in cultivation,
most of which are natives of tropical regions. It has
been cultivated in England about a century. All of them
are very pungent. The best varieties are :—

Bell Pepper—Brought from India in 1750. Of low
growth with large, bell-shaped fruit. Its thick and pulpy
skin renders it the best for pickles. More mild than most
of the varieties. .

Tomato Pepper—Named from its resemblance to the
tomato in shape. More pungent than the preceding.

Large Sweet is another variety much used for pickling,
which I have not yet cultivated. It is said to be a good,
mild variety. .

Cayenne or Long, with small, round, tapering fruit, an
extremely pungent. Excelient for pepper sauce.

Capsicum likes a rich, moist loam, rather light than
otherwise. Guano and fowl manure are excellent fer-
tilizers for peppers.

For early plants, sow the seed in drills, one inch deep
and six inches apart, under glass, in February, and trans-
plant after the frosts are entirely over, when three or four
inches high in good soil, in rows fifteen or eighteen inches
apart each way. Sow also in the open ground as soon as
the settled warm weather comes on, say the last of March
or first of April, and thin them out to the proper distance.
An ounce of seed will give two or three thousand plants.
They should be transplanted in moist weather only, and
must be watered until well-established. Shading a few
days, at mid-day after transplanting, is very beneficial.
Cultivate and earth up their stems a little.

Seed—A plant bearing the earliest and finest fruit
should be selected. The varieties should be grown as far

ENDIVE. . 187

apart. as possible. When ripe the pods are hung up to
dry, and kept until the’seed is wanting for sowing.

Use—These plants are very much used in all hot
climates, where they enter as a seasoning into almost
every dish. ‘The large kinds are used for pickling, and for
this should be gathered when full grown just before turn-
ing red. They are also dried when ripe and used for
“seasoning. Cayenne and the other small kinds are ground
for table use, or made into pepper sauce by the addition
of strong vinegar. Peppers are often rubbed upon meat
to drive away insects, and are also considerably used in
medicine, especially by botanic practitioners. The daily
use of this plant in hot climates is decidedly a preventive
of bowel complaints, which renders its cultivation so uni-
versal.

Cichorium Endivia—ENDIVE.

Endive is a hardy annual, a native of China and Japan;
first cultivated in England in 1548. The root leaves are
numerous, large, sinuate, toothed, and smooth. The stem
rises about two feet high, producing blue flowers. It is
considerably cultivated in Europe.

VARIETIES.—The best varieties are:

Green Curled—A fine, hardy variety, with beautifully
curled leaves. It is the best for salads.

Broad-leaved or Batarian has thick, plain, or slightly ©
wrinkled foliage. It is principally used for cooking, and
making a larger head is preferred for stews and soups,
but not much used for salads. Besides these varieties,
there is another species, Cichorium Intybus, or Succory, a
.good deal used as a winter salad in Europe, but it is
mainly cultivated for the root, which is dried and ground
for the purpose of adulterating coffee, and some even
think it quite as good. It is a hardy perennial, and

188 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

its blue flowers sometimes introduce it into the flower-
garden.

Cultwre—Endives delight in a light rich soil, dug
deeply to admit its tap roots, and to serve as a drain for
any superfluous moisture in the winter standing crop. The.
situation should be open and free from shade of trees.

Sow the seed in August and September. Sow at this
season if possible everything just before a shower—draw ©
a furrow the depth of your hoe, in the bottom of which
scatter your seed thinly, and cover slightly with earth,
pressing it upon the seed. Plant in the evening, and
water copiously with the fine rose of a water-pot in the drill;
shade during the day, and continue watering in the even-
ing until the plants get rooted. The drills should be
twelve or fifteen inches apart. The Batavian likes most
space ; hoe freely and keep the ground free from weeds; thin
the plants when two inches high ; those removed may be
transplanted to another location ; choose moist weather for
this purpose, trim the leaves a little and water moderately
every evening, until the plants get established and during
very long droughts. Those left in the seed bed make the
best plants.

In about three months after sowing, as they grow stocky
and full in the heart, the leaves being about eight inches
long, some should have their leaves tied up every week or
fortnight to blanch, and render them tender and remove
their bitter taste. Perform this in dry days. The curled
sort will sometimes blanch pretty well if neatly earthed
up without being tied, but it is better to tie it. The broad
leaved from its loftier and looser growth needs a bandage.
Fold the leaves round the heart as much as possible in.
their natural position, and tie them up with a string or shred
of bass, then covering them entirely with sand in the form
of a cone, rendering the surface smooth and firm. Thiy

HORSE RADISH. 189

must be done in dry, but not frosty weather, as the plants
will rot if the leaves are wet or frozen. They may also
be blanched under garden pots like sea-kale, or by merely
tying them closely, winding the string several times round
the plant and closing the top, so as to exclude the rain,
drawing the earth around the base to support it. This is
the best mode in hot weather; in autumn they will
blanch in ten days, in winter they require nearly twice
that time. Succory to blanch is taken up and planted in
boxes*of mould which are carried into a cellar or dark
room and watered when necessary. The blanched leaves
will be supplied all winter.

For Seed—Let some of the best and most vigorous
plants remain till February, and transplant if you wish to
use the ground, in rows eighteen inches apart. Support the
stems by stakes, and gather the seed vessels as they ripen.
Dry them thoroughly on a cloth, thresh and preserve in
paper bags. ‘The seed will keep four years.

Use-—Endive is cultivated for its stocky head of leaves,
which after their bitterness is removed by blanching ; are
used in autumn and winter for salads and stews. It is
very wholesome, and boiled is thought to be a remedy
for the jaundice. It possesses a good deal of the virtues
of the dandelion ; it never disagrees with the stomach, but
suits every constitution. ‘The French use it in a variety
of forms, raw, stewed, boiled, pickled, but it is chiefly
employed as a salad.

Cochlearia Armoracia— HORSE RADISH.

Horse-radish is a cruciferous perennial plant, growing
naturally in moist places in England, and various other
parts of Europe. The leaves are large, oblong, hollowed,
and from some fancied resemblance to a spoon Cochlear,

190 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

the botanical name, is derived. Its flowers are white, and
appear in panicles in May. It has long been an inhabitant
of the garden.

Culture-—Horse-radish delights in a deep rich mould,
moderately and regularly moist—the roots are never of
any size if grown in poor soil, or under shade of trees. It
seldom produces seed, and hence is propagated by sets
provided by cutting the roots and offsets into lengths of
two inches. The tops and crowns of the roots make the
best sets as they are earlier, and make a finer growth than
those from the centre of the root. Each set should have
two eyes.

Horse-radish may be planted from November to March,
inclusive. 'The finest crops are made by trenching the
ground two feet deep, planting the cuttings along the bot-
tom of the trench, and the mould from the next trench
turned over upon them.

They may also be inserted with a long blunt-pointed
dibble the same depth; let the rows be eighteen inches
apart, and the sets twelve inches in the row. After the
beds are planted, smooth the surface and keep clear of
weeds, and avoid treading upon the beds, as they should
be kept as light as possible. If planted in March, a crop
of radishes or lettuce may be taken off the ground before
the plants make their appearance. They speedily root
and send up long straight shoots, those appearing in April
that were planted in autumn. The only cultivation is to
keep them free from weeds, and remove the decayed leaves
in autumn. Hoe and rake the bed over in autumn, and
also the following spring. By the next fall, the roots are
ready to take up as wanted. Ifthe plants throw up suckers,
they should be carefully removed as they appear.

If any manure is applied to horse-radish, it must be put
at the bottom of the trench before planting, or the plant

SCURVY GRASS. 191

will send out side shoots in search of the manure, which
would greatly injure the crop.

To take them up, a trench is dug along the outside row
down to the bottom of the upright roots which are cut off
nearly level with the original planting. The earth from
the next row is turned over upon them to the desired depth,
and so on until finished. The pieces of roots left will
send up new shoots, and the same bed will produce well
in this way five or six years, when the site of the planta-
tion should be changed; when this is to be done every
piece of root should be taken up, for the smallest of them
will vegetate and prove troublesome if left. The best
roots come from fresh plantations.

Use.—Horse-radish scraped into shreds ith vinegar, is
a well known and desirable accompaniment to roast beef.
It is also used in fish and other sauces and chicken salads,
and is thought to assist digestion. 'The shreds pickled in
strong vinegar and closely stopped in glass bottles will
keep for years. Horse-radish in medicine is a valuable
stimulant—useful also in hoarseness, sometimes serviceable
in rheumatism and is especially valuable in cases of in-
cipient scurvy.

Cochlearia Officinalis—Scurvy GRass,

A biennial plant, found near most sea-shores in temper-
ate climates. Likes a soil similar to the preceding, and
equally free from the shade of trees.

It is propagated from seed sown as soon as ripe in
May or June, for if kept long it does not germinate well.
Sow in drills eight inches apart and one-half inch deep.
When they come up thin them to eight inches apart, trans-
planting those taken up, and giving water until estab-
lished. Keep free from weeds, which is all the cultivation

192 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

needed. To save seed leave some of the plants in place,
and gather and sow when ripe.

Use—The small leaves are used like cresses; its great
use medicinally is pointed out by its name.

Convolvulus Batatos, §c—SWEET PorTato.

This valuable plant, first cultivated in England in 1597,
by Gerrard, is the potato mentioned by Shakspeare and
his cotemporaries, the Irish potato being then scarcely
known. “ Let the sky rain potatoes,” says Falstaff, al-
luding to this vegetable, which was at that time imported
into England from Spain and the Canary Islands, and
considered a great delicacy. The sweet potato isa pe-
rennial plant, a native of China and both Indies. It
has small leaves, with three to five lobes, according to
the variety—with herbaceous vines which run along the
ground, taking root at intervals. Its roots are long, spin-
dle-shaped or oval, often very large, and abounding in
starch and sugar. Its nutritious properties and agreeable
flavor have brought it into general use in all parts of the
globe, where the climate is warm enough to admit of its
successful cultivation. ‘The following are the most com-
mon varieties, and perhaps as good as any.

Small Spanish.— Long, grows in clusters, purplish
color, very productive, and of excellent quality.

Brimstone-—Sulphur-colored, long, of large size, and
productive; keeps well with us, and is one of the best
sorts; very dry, and excellent.

Red Bermuda—Is of the Yam family; leaves many-
lobed, and the best early potato—productive.

Commen Yam.—Leaves many-lobed; root oblong and
something globular, the best long-keeper, and very pro-
ductive. Has something of the pumpkin flavor.

SWEET POTATO. 193

Analysis.—One thousand pounds of the roots contain:

Starch, ; ‘ : , : ; 184.23

Albumen, 3 : 4 bie HAAT

Coagulable Albumen, F : : 19.40

Casein, ; : 2 ‘ 9.70

Sugar and Extract, - ° : 53.49

Dextrine and Gants : : 5 serves

Fiber, é é : : 3 17.09

Gum Resin, ; ; f 2 a OY

Water, ‘ ; é : . 641.72—989.10

Silicie Acid, : : j ’ : 0.24

Sulphuric Acid, ; 0.16

Phosphates of Lime and Magnesia 3 Auer Cts

Lime, : . ; .08

Magnesia, : : : : : e108

Potash, ; 4 é 5 , ; 6.3

Soda, : ‘ : ; z ‘ 6 —

Chlorine, : : : ; : ; .54—10.90
1000.00

The above analysis was made by Prof. Emmons. Potash
seems to be the element most necessary to supply the soil.
A dressing of wood ashes would be very beneficial to this
crop. Next to potash it demands a supply of the phos-
phates.

Culture—The sweet potato likes a rich, sandy loam,
perfectly friable, and, as indicated by the analysis, abound-
ing in potash. The soil should be well enriched. They
do well on lands freshly reclaimed from the forests.

The Spanish potatoes are generally planted where they
are to remain like the Irish potato, whole or cut up into
sets. But both these may, and the yams must be propa-
gated by slips, as they grow larger and yield more abun-
dantly.

To raise slips select a sunny spot sheltered by fences
or buildings, and lay it off in beds four feet wide, with

9 |

194 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

alleys of the same width between them; slope the beds a
little towards the’ sun, dig them well and add plenty of
well-decomposed manure, if not already rich. Do this the
last of February or early in March. Choose large, smooth,
and healthy-looking potatoes, and lay them regularly over
the bed an inch or two apart, and cover them about three
or four inches with soil from the alleys; rake the beds
smooth and itis done. In large operations, ten bushels
of potatoes should be bedded for every acre of ground.
While the slips are sprouting, prepare your ground to
receive them. It should be rich, or made so with well-
rotted manure, and thoroughly and deeply broken up with
the plough or spade. Lay it off just before the slips are
ready, which will begin to be about the 15th of April, in
low horizontal ridges or beds, the crowns of which are
three and a half feet asunder, and about six inches high,
on which plant out the slips with a dibble, eighteen inches
apart, one plant in a place. Choose for this operation
such a day as you would for cabbage plants, or do-it in
the evening. ‘The sweet potato is readily transplanted,
and if holes are dug in the mellow bed, deep enough to
admit the plant, and the slips set upright therein, have the
earth washed in about their roots by pouring water upon
them from the open spout of a waterpot, finishing the
operation by covering over with a coat of dry mellow
earth, brought up and pressed pretty closely about the
slips to keep the moistened earth from baking. Very few
will die even if they are set out at mid-day; but as the
plants would be checked, a cloudy day, or just at night
should be selected for the operation. This is an excellent
mode of transplanting all plants, and is of great use both
in the vegetable and flower garden. If the slips are not
washed in as above when taken up in dry weather, it is of
great advantage to grout them, as well as all other plants

SWEET POTATO. 195

you wish to transplant. This is done by immersing the
roots in water thickened with rich earth. It refreshes the
slips, and gives them a thin coating of earth asa protection
against the atmosphere. Draw the slips when about three
or four inches high, by placing the left hand on the bed
near the sprout to steady the root, and prevent its being
pulled up with the sprout, which is loosened with the right
hand, taking care not to disturb the fibrous roots of the
mother potato, for this continues to afford a succession of
slips which may be successfully transplanted until the
Ist of July. After the piece is planted go over it again
in a few days to plant over any place where the slips may
have failed. As soon as the ground gets a little weedy,
scrape it over, loosening the earth and covering up the
weeds, but be careful not to injure the young slips. Faith-
ful cultivation and frequent moving the soil are as benefi-
cial to this crop as to any other. At one of the hoeings
just before being laid by, the ground should be deeply
moved with the plough or spade, but not too close to the
plants. They should be laid by before the plants run a
great deal, after which they should be undisturbed. Be
careful not to cover the vines, but if they become attached
to the soil, loosen them up from it, so that the vigor of the
plants may be thrown into the roots and not into the run-
ning vines. Make the hills large and broad, not pointed.
In hoeing draw the vines carefully over towards you
while you draw up the earth and cover the weeds; then
lay them carefully back, and finish the other side in the
same manner. At this time it is an excellent plan to fill
the spaces between the rows with leaves and litter while
the ground is wet, to retain the moisture. After the vines
have covered the ground too much to use the hoe, any
large weeds that appear should be pulled up by hand.
The Yam Potato can also be raised from seed, but the

196 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Spanish variety, like the sugar cane and many other plants
long propagated by division, rarely produces seed. —

Just as soon as the tops are killed by frost, the potatoes
should be gathered. In field crops they can be ploughed
up and gathered by hands which follow the plough, de-
positing the potatoes in small heaps. but in the garden the
potato can be gathered with the hoe or the potato hook,
an implement much used in gathering crops of the Irish
potato. Itis better to do this in a dry day, and many
prefer to dig their potatoes just before the frost kills the
vines thinking they keep better.

Keeping potatoes is a rather difficult matter. The fol-
lowing is Mr. Peabody’s plan: Let the small heaps dry
during the day. In handling them, take care not to bruise
or injure the skin. Put them up in hills, containing thirty
or forty bushels each. Make a circular trench as large as
the hill you wish to make. Elevate the earth surrounded
by it about six inches, or sufficient to prevent the access
of moisture. Cover this over with pine straw, and pile up
the potatoes upon this in a regular cone. If the weather
is good, cover them only with pine or other straw for two
or three days, until the potatoes are well dried, before
their final earthing up. Let the covering of straw be three
or four inches thick; then cover it over with large strips
of pine bark, commencing at the base, and cover as shing-
ling unto the top, leaving a small aperture. Cover four
or five inches thick with earth over all, except this aper-
ture, which must be left open for the escape of the heat
and moisture generated within.

Some cover this opening with a piece of pine bark, to
keep out the rain, but a board shelteris preferable. When
the weather gets warm, in the spring, take up the pota-
toes, rub off the sprouts, and keep on a dry floor. If put
up with care, they will keep until July. One important

SEA KALE, 197

step toward their. certain preservation is to gather them
carefully from the ground, as the least bruise produces
rapid decay.

For seed, some of the finest roots of the most productive
hills can be packed in barrels, and covered with sand, in
a dry, warm place, free from all exposure to frost. My
own garden crop keeps perfectly well in barrels, with a
layer of leaves at the bottom, then a layer of potatoes,
then a layer of leaves, and so on until the cask is filled.
Use dry leaves, and store in a dry place.

Use-—This root is deservedly a favorite at the table,
and the most wholesome grown. In nutritious properties,
as we see by the analysis, it excels all other roots culti-
vated in this country, except the carrot. Weight for
weight, it contains more than double the quantity of
_ starch, sugar, and other elements of nutrition, that are
found in the best varieties of Irish potato. For feeding
stock, three bushels are equal to one of Indian corn, yield-
ing, on the same land, five or six times the food that is
produced by this most profitable grain

A good baked sweet potato is almost as ata as
bread. They are better baked than boiled. They are
also used for pies and puddings, and sweet potato rolls are
excellent. In short, the modes of cooking this excellent
vegetable are innumerable, but perhaps the very best is
Marion’s mode of roasting in the hot ashes.

Crambe Maratémua—SeEA KALE

The sea kale is a perennial, a native of the dry, shingly
shores of Great Britain. ‘The plant is smooth, of a beau-
tiful glaucous hue, covered with a fine meal, and with
large sinnated, radical leaves. The flower is of a rich
white appearance, and a honeyed smell. It has probably
been cultivated in gardens one hundred and fifty years,

198 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

but not very generally until the beginning of the present
century, though the English peasantry have been in the
habit of gathering the blanched shoots as they pushed
through the sand, and boiling them as greens, from time
immemorial.

Wherever the climate will admit its cultivation, as all
through our mountain region, if not in the low country, it
will be found a very valuable addition to the scanty list
of spring vegetables now upon our tables. It is partial to
a cool climate.

The following analysis of the ash of this plant is by
Herapath. The per-centage of ash in the undried plant
was 2.42, the constituents of which are in the following
proportions :

LEAVES. YOUNG SHOOTS.
Carbonic acid, . ; : 6.92 4.22
Sulphuric acid, . : 15.16. 21.85

Phosphoric acid, : bhai 5 ee, = 5.06
Potassa, : ; : 2.10 6.75
Soda, . ‘ 3 20.80 23.58
Chloride of ES : 12.54 ‘trace
Carbonate of lime, . tires Bes 3.61
Carbonate of magnesia, trace _— trace.
Sulphate of lime, . : 1.51 trace
Phosphate of lime, d 12:10 6 + BSQ71
Phosphate of magnesia, . trace trace
Phosphate of iron, ‘ 1.58 trace
Silica, : ‘ : 10 4,22

99.98 100.00

Common salt, bone-dust, and gypsum are pointed out
by the analysis as beneficial special manures for sea kale.

Culture—The native soil of sea kale is a deep sand,
mingled with alluvial matter from the sea. It likes a deep
mould, or sandy loam, and if poor, well putrified dung and:
half decayed leaves may be added. Upon the richness
and proper preparation of the soil, not only the luxuriance

SEAKALE, 199

but the continued existence of the plant depends. Com-
mon salt applied dry, in autumn, at the rate of even
thirty bushels per acre, or watering the plants with a brine
made with four ounces of salt to the gallon, applied around
the roots in summer, is a very beneficial application. The
situation must be free from all shade of trees. Sea kale
is propagated by seeds, or offsets, or cuttings of the root;
but the best plants are raised from seed. Sow the seed in
a well prepared soil, rich, or made so with well decomposed °
manure, and shaded by a fence, or building, from the mid-
day sun. Draw the drills one foot apart, and scatter the
seed thinly along the drills. The beds should be about
four feet wide, for convenience. Put in the seed from
October to the middle of March, but December and Janu-
ary are the best months. Before insertin g the seed, bruise
the outer coat, but without injuring its vegetating power.
By this practice, germination will be accelerated. The
plants are very slow in appearing; never less than three
weeks, often four or five months, and sometimes a full
year. Water plentifully in dry weather, and keep the
seed-beds free from weeds during the season. Thin the
plants, as they appear, to an inch apart, and, as they grow
strong, to two or three inches. The great difficulty in
raising sea kale is in getting good, healthy, acclimated
plants, to form the beds. The seed are difficult to vege-
tate, and, after they do come up, apt to die off during the
summer. In the autumn, when their leaves decay, clear
them away and earth them up about the crowns with an
inch or two of soil from the alleys, or leaf-mould from the
woods, and cover over the whole bed, four inches deep,
with long litter, and leave it to stand until the time of
transplanting.

If you have been successful in raising your plants, in
the latter part of the February ensuing, prepare your per-

200 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH,

manent bed for those you wish to transplant. Those
raised where they are to remain succeed best.

Let the soil be light, and well enriched with good com-
post manure. Leaf manure is better than hot dung. Dig
it up deeply and thoroughly, at least two feet deep, and
lay it off in beds three feet wide, with alleys between two
feet in width. Upon each of these beds plant two rows
of plants eighteen inches apart and the same distance in
the row. Take up the plants very carefully with the
trowel, so as not to disturb the roots. If you plant cut-
tings of old plants, put two in each place, to guard against
failures. In all cases, be careful in transplanting that the
roots are not broken or dried by exposure to the sun and
air. During the dry, hot weather of summer the beds
should be liberally watered, the first season after replant-
ing, as upon their summer growth depends the next
season’s crop. Keep the soil clean, and after the plants
get well rooted, dig over the ground between the rows at
least ten inches deep, making the soil as fine as possible,
and after a few days dig in the same manner, on the out-
side of each row, that the plants may not receive a check
by having all their roots shortened at once.

The coming autumn, the earthing-up must be a little
increased; give a coat of leaf mould or compost manure
and over this a thick coat of leaves, which will bring the
plants on early in the spring. The next spring remove
the litter and dig in some of the manure into the alleys,
and then if you blanch with pots, spread over the beds
about an inch deep of clean sand. The shoots may be
blanched and a few cut for use but sparingly, as the plants
must not be weakened. The better way is not to remove
the covering of leaves until you have gathered what you
desire. On a portion of the bedto produce early, the winter
covering of compost and leaves must be yearly applied.

SEA KALE. 201

Another portion must be left uncovered until the shoots
begin to rise and then covered with eight or ten inches of
sand for a later crop. Hach spring give it a dressing of
salt like asparagus. Hach succeeding summer also, dig
over the surface of the bed as before. Retain for each
plant only four or five of the best suckers at regular dis-
tances around the stem; suffer none of these to seed, if
you would not greatly injure the next year’s growth.

Sea Kale is worthless unless white and tender, and be-
fore it is eatable requires to be blanched. This may be
done by earthing-up the crowns eight or ten inches with
sand, or light mould, or by retaining the coat of dry leaves
put over the beds in autumn.

This covering may remain until the cutting ceases in
the spring, when all covering must be removed at evening
or in cloudy weather. ‘The shoots will raise the covering
when in a fit state for cutting. The courses of leaves
should be from five to twelve inches thick, according to
the age of the plants, and as directed above, may remain
onall winter. But a large flower pot with the hole in the
bottom stopped, and light at the edges carefully excluded
by a coat of litter, is the best of all modes of blanching,
when the plants get established.

For Seed.—A plant that has not been blanched or cut
from, must be allowed to run to seed in the spring. A
single plant will produce an abundant supply.

Use-—Sea Kale comes on early in March, when vege-
tables are scarce, and affords a very wholesome and
agreeable table luxury. The young shoots and leaf
stalks, before unfolding, are boiled and dressed like aspar-
agus, and are also employed in soups.

To Boil.—Tie the shoots in bundles and put into boiling
water with a little salt; boil briskly twenty minutes and
serve on toast with nice melted butter.

o*

202 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Cucumis Sativus~-CUCUMBER.

This is a trailing annual, with rough heart-shaped
leaves and yellow flowers, growing wild in the East
Indies and in most’ warm climates. It is one of the
earliest garden products mentioned in history and was
cultivated from the ealiest times in Egypt. (Wambers xi.5.)

It has always been a vegetable peculiarly grateful and
refreshing to the inhabitants of warm climates. It was
probably early brought into Europe from the East, as
it was in high esteem among the Romans, who so well
understood its culture, that it appeared on the tables of
the wealthy in winter.

In England, it was introduced as early as 1573.

Varveties—There are many varieties, the best of which
are:

Early Short White Prickly, growing five or six inches
long with white prickles, remaining green longer than
most other varieties ; productive.

Early Cluster—lIs well adapted to this climate, being
very early, and is named from the fruit growing in clus-
ters. The fruit is generally about five inches long, very
productive. Early Russian is a smaller and earlier variety
of this.

Long Green Prickly— Dark green color with black
spines, grows about ten inches in length and bears abun-
dantly ; excellent for pickles.

Gherkin— Cucumis Anguria,a species with very small
and prickly fruit and leaves much divided, or palmated;
a great bearer, but used only for pickling.

There are many other varieties, some of which grow
two feet long, crisp and well flavored, but the foregoing
are the best for family culture.

The ash of cucumber has been analyzed by Richardson,

CUCUMBER. . 203

The per-centage of ash afforded by the plant in the un-
dried state, is .63, the constituents of which are in the
following proportions.

Potassa, . s : : 3 47.42
Lime, . : : F 5 ‘ Fic Onoeds
Magnesia, ° : ‘ ; F 4.26
Sulphuric Acid, . ; : : . 4.60
Silicie Acid, . , ; : ; yy te

Phosphoric Acid, . 3 : . 14.97
Phosphate of Iron, : - : » 22.06
Chloride of Potassium, . : : 4.19
Chloride of Sodium yj. Lanta op 9200

eS

g9.a9

Ashes, Bone-dust and common salt are the special
manures indicated by the analysis. Guano is the best
inanure. |

Culture-—The culture of cucumbers in this fine climate
is very easy. ‘They will grow in almost any soil or situa-
tion, provided it has a good supply of moisture, but it likes
a light, fresh loam, and to be somewhat shaded during the
heat of the day. The seed may be planted about the first
of April, or as soon as it can be done with safety, as this
plant is very tender and will not bear the least frost. If
the ground be deeply trenched, the plant is much less
susceptible to drought. After the ground is regularly dug,
dig out holes fifteen inches deep and the same in diameter,
six feet apart each way, and partly fill them with well
decomposed manure. A little guano, or fowl manure,
sprinkled in the bottom of the hills will be very beneficial.
Do not use fresh manure or the the plants will die out.
Cow manure and leaf mould are excellent. Cover over
the manure with rich, mellow loam. Raise the hills a
little above the surface, and form them saucer-shaped, two
or three inches deep so as to retain the moisture. Put

204 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

eight or ten seeds in the hill, and when they get rough
leaves pull up the poorest plants, and leave but three ina
hill, Old seed is much better than new, as the plants will
run less to vines and bear better.

As soon as the vine gets rough leaves, nip off the
extremities to make them branch out and they will fruit the
sooner. ‘This is called stopping. Cucumbers are very
subject in cool, dry seasons to attacks of insects, especially
the striped bug and the cucumber flea. Dry wood ashes
or air-slacked lime dusted thoroughly upon the plants
when the dew is on, will generally repel them, and bring
the plants forward. But warm rains will soon bring up the
plants beyond the reach of the depredators. Cucumbers
should not be planted very late in this climate, as those
that form after the middle of August are pretty apt to be
destroyed by the melon worm. ‘The best pickles are
from the early planted vines.

Cucumbers can be very much forwarded by planting
them in boxes covered over with glass. Two seven-by-nine
panes are large enough to cover a hill, and such hills will
not be troubled by the bugs, and the seed can be put in
four or five weeks earlier than otherwise. The seed can
also be planted in large pots under a frame, or in a green-
house, to be turned out, when the weather gets favorable,
into the open air, and they will scarcely show they have
been moved. Or they can be raised wholly without re-
moval, in hot-beds made as directed in a former article.
They do best to start them in pots placed in a small hot-
bed, and to be-transplanted when the leaves are two or
three inches broad and they fill the pots, into new beds
of a larger size. They must have plenty of air, and be
placed near the glass, or they will be drawn up. If they
begin to grow long-legged, give them more air. The tem-
perature of the seed-bed should range between 65° and

CUCUMBER. 205

85°. Always water the plants with tepid water, and do
it about noon. Liquid manure, especially guano-water, is
very beneficial. In planting in the bed for fruiting, do
not break the ball of earth; take them out of the pots
carefully at night, water gently, keep the sash down the
next day, and shade at noon-day, to keep them from
withering. It is necessary the beds should be shaded
with a mat, during the middle of the day. when the sashes
are kept down, until the plants get well established.
Stopping in the hot-beds is still more important than in
the open air. The temperature now must be be kept
between 70° and 90°, by external coatings of fresh dung,
if necessary. The shoots must be trained regularly over
the surface of the bed. Leave only two or three main
branches to each plant, removing the others as they ap-
pear. If the plants that have been stopped have extended
their runners three joints without showing fruit, they must
be stopped again. The vines should blossom in a month
from the time of sowing. Impregnate the pistillate or
female blossom (which may be known by its having fruit
attached), by taking the staminate blossom and placing its
centre within that of the pistillate blossom. ‘They may be
gathered in about two weeks after impregnation. Three
plants are sufficient for one sash of the usual size.

For Seed —Choose some of the finest fruit of each variety
growing near the root. Do not raise the plants near other
varieties, or the seed will mix and deteriorate. Let them
remain until they turn yellow, and the footstalk withers ;
cut them off and keep in the sun until they begin to
decay; then wash the seed from the pulp, and spread it out
to dry. It will keep eight or ten years, and is even better
when three or four years old, as the plants are less luxu-
riant and more productive.

Use.—Cucumbers are @ yery popular, but not very

206 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

wholesome vegetable. They are of a cold, watery nature,
and beside are found to contain, in a small quantity, a
chemical principle analogous to fwngin, the poisonous prin-
ciple of mushrooms. Many persons of weak constitution
cannot eat them without positive injury. They possess
scarcely any nutritive properties, but their cooling nature
renders them to most palates very agreeable. They are
eaten raw, fried, stewed, and pickled. The juice is said
to be a cosmetic, and enters into the composition of many
-of the French pomades.

Lo Keep Cucumbers.—Cover the bottom of a cask or jar
with salt; put on a layer of small cucumbers; then an-
other layer of salt, and so on, until the vessel is full.
Place a weight upon them to keep them pressed down,
They will make their own brine, and keep any length of
time. If the weight is taken off, they will rise to the top,
grow soft, and spoil, as they require to be excluded from
the air, They should be freshened, by soaking in warm
water, before the additions of vinegar and spices.

To Dress Cucumbers Raw.—Pare freshly picked cucum-
bers, and slice them into cold water; pour off the water,
and season with salt, vinegar, and pepper. A little salad
oil may be added. Some add a small quantity of sliced
onion, to impart the onion flavor to the vinegar.

To Pickle Cucumbers—Upon freshly picked cucumbers
pour a hot, strong brine of salt and water, and let them
stand in the brine two days; then take them out, rinse in
cold water, and let them drain three or four hours; then
boil a sufficient quantity of the best cider vinegar, with a
bit of alum, together with mustard, allspice, cloves, and
black pepper. Pour this mixture, boiling hot upon them,
cover them closely, and set away foruse. Green Cayenne
peppers and onions may be used for seasoning, if liked. -

MELON. 207

Cucumis Melo——MELON.

The melon, or musk melon, is supposed to be a native
of Persia, but has been cultivated in all warm climates so
long, that it is difficult to assign, with certainty, its native
country. It has been cultivated in Southern Europe at
least four hundred years. It is the richest and most deli-
cious of all herbaceous fruits. In England its culture is
a difficult and expensive process, but in this country the
most luscious melons are raised almost without trouble.

There are three classes of melons, the green fleshed,
yellow fleshed, and Persian melon. ‘There are also several
varieties of winter melon cultivated in Spain, which are
said to be of good flavor, and in a dry room will keep all
winter. In all, there are over seventy varieties, the best
of which are:

Christiana —This variety originated near Boston, from
a cross between the green Malta and some early variety.
Mr. Harwellstates: “It is very fine at Mobile; ten days
earlier than any other variety, and of the finest flavor.”

Beechwood.—A green-fleshed melon, one of the best and
most productive of its class; ripens quite early, about
twelve days after the Christiana. Fruit medium size, oval,
netted ; skin, greenish yellow; flesh, pale green, rich, melt-
ing, and very sugary. If I had but one variety, should
choose this.

Hloosainee—A Persian melon. Fruit oblong, egg-shaped,
of good size; skin, light green, netted; flesh, pale greenish
white, tender, and abounding with sugary, highly per-
fumed juice; seeds large.

Sweet Ispahan—F ruit, large oval; skin, nearly smooth,
of a deep sulphur color; flesh, greenish white, crisp, thick,

rich, and sugary. Ripens late. The most delicious of all
melons. : :

208 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Pine-Apple, Cassabar, Netted Citron, and Rock, are also
fine varieties.

The melon has been analyzed by J. H. Salisbury. He
found the per centage of water, dry matter, and ash, as
follows :

Per-centage of water, . . - 90.987
Racpeveree «“ dry matter, ee eg Gis

‘6 “ “ ash, : a : 271

S cial «; « in dry matter, 3.007

The ash was found to be constituted as follows:
Carbonic Acid. ; z ; ~ wade
Silicie Acid, : : : ji 2.20

Phosphoric Acid, . - : - 20.40
Sulphurie Acid, . : : : 3.90
Phosphate of ss : : é ot RSOe
Lime, . : : d 5.85
Magnesia, ; : : . : .60
Potash, J : : : ‘ 8.35

Soda, 2 : f 3 A , | eae
Chlorine, . : ‘ : ; 5.20
Organic matter, . : ‘ .-> trace

99.70

The analysis shows that superphosphate of lime, or
bone-dust, to supply the phosphoric acid, and common salt,
to furnish the soda and chlorine, are the special manures
most likely to be required. Ashes, guano, and all kinds
of animal matter, will also increase its growth and pro-
ductiveness.

Culture—The melon likes a rich, sandy soil, well ma-
nured, and deeply dug. If the soil is clay, it should be cor-
rected by the addition of charcoal-dust, sand, or leaf-mould
fromthe woods. The most luscious melons are grown on new
land, fresh from the woods. They like, also, soil manured by
cowpenning. In selecting seed, get the oldest you can,

MELON. 209

and take great care to get that which is perfectly pure, for
the seed of melons raised in proximity to gourds, cucum-
bers, pumpkins, &c., will produce new varieties, destitute —
of flavor. All plants of this family are exceedingly liable
to intermix, to their great detriment. They will deterio-
rate, if planted within one hundred feet of each other.
Plant in the open ground as soon as the frosts are well
over here, the ist of April and through the month; but in
the low country the seed should be put in the ground in
March. Make the hills six feet apart each way ; dig a hole
for them a foot deep and two feet across, and fillit half full
with good well-rotted manure. Upon this throw six inches of
good soil, and mix well together. Finish out with light
sandy loam, or if a stiff soil, mingle in charcoal dust to cor-
rect its tenacity, so as to bring the hill just above the sur-
face. Make the hill dishing, as for the cucumber. ‘To guard
against accident, plant about ten seeds in the hill, and
cover an inch deep. The cucumber bug may be driven
off if troublesome, as directed for cucumber. A little
guano sprinkled around the hill, not too near the plants,
and intermingled with the surface soil, will also by its
pungent smell, drive off the cucumber bug-and flea, and
also prove avery valuable fertilizer of the plants. Wa-
tering with guano water for the same purpose is very bene-
ficial. When the plants make two or three rough leaves
thin them out to three of the best in each hill, and pull
up one of these soon after. When the vines begin to run,
and show the first blossom, they must be stopped by pinch-
ing off the extreme bud as inthe cucumber. This will en-
der them earlier and more prolific in large fruit. If wa-
tered liberally with soapsuds in dry weather, they will
repay the trouble. Keep the ground about them fresh-
dug, mellow, and free from weeds. Their whole culture
is like the cucumber. Melons may be forced in all the

210 ' GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

methods described in the article on cucumber. As the
melon worm generally destroys all the fruit after about
the middle of August, it is important to get them early into
bearing. This is a green worm, the progeny of some
moth, which crawls up from the ground, eating its way
into melons, squashes, cucumbers, &c., admitting the air,
and causing them to decay at once, and fill the atmosphere
about them with a most disagreeable and sickening odor.
Putting a board cr brick under each melon as soon as it
appears, will sometimes prevent his entrance, but there is
no certain remedy. But it is well to raise a part of the
plants in pots to hasten the melon season as fast as possi-
ble. Good melons may be raised without this trouble, but
in a garden the very best modes of culture should be
pursued.

To Save Seed—Select of eaeh variety some of the
earliest and best melons; wash the seed from the pulp, dry
them in the shade, and put away in paper bags. They
will keep ten years. Old seed is more prolific in fruit
than rew. Be sure and plant the oldest seed you can get
if it appears well preserved; seeds will not be true if the
varieties are within one hundred feet of each other.

Use——The melon as a palatable and luscious fruit, very
cooling in hot weather, maintains a high rank. It is usu-
ally eaten with salt alone, though many like the addition
of sugar and spices. ‘hat it is wholesome is proved by its
constant use while in season as an article of food among
the people of Southern Europe. The musk melon con-
tains but a trifle more water than the beet, and is quite as
nourishing. It contains albumen, casein, dextrine and
sugar, which combined with citric, malic, and tartaric
acids, give its peculiar rich flavor. The green fruit may
be cooked like th> egg-plant, and is also made into man-
goes.

WATERMELON. 211

Cucurbita Cuitrullus—W ATERMELON.

This is also a trailing annual, a native of the tropics,
and of the same xatural family as the musk melon, but
belongs to a distinct genus. It is a large succulent and
refreshing, but not high-flavored, fruit, and is probably
the melon mentioned in the Bible.

‘The varieties just now in most repute in the Northern
States, are Imperial, Black Spanish, Mountain Sprout, and
Mountain Sweet, particularly the latter. ‘The Orange Melon
is also deservedly popular, the rind separating from the
pulp like the orange. I have tried the above, but have
never succeeded in getting as good melons as those raised
from seed grown in the low country of our own State.
The “Lawson melon” of Augusta, Ga., is probably
the best grown. ‘The Anderson is excellent. The
Citron watermelon is a small, round, pale-green, mar-
bled sort, liked by many for preserves. ‘The watermelon
has been analyzed by J.H. Salisbury. He found the per-
centage of water, dry matter, and ash as follows :—

Per-centage of water, 2 : ; 94.898

x dry matter, . : 1) S102

bs ash}. baehissig ‘ : 248

ty do. in dry matter, «/ P486L

The ash wasfound to be constituted as follows :—

Carbonic acid, ; 2 : : TP42
Silicie acid, . : : ‘ * Oath, op
Phosphoric acid, : : : 14.93
Sulphuric acid, ‘ ; : 3 2 ashe es
Posphate of iron, , inher : 4.52
‘Eamie, ; : : 5 2 : toe
Magnesia. : ; : ° . 1.3]
Potash, x “ j 1 493195
Soda, ‘ ; ‘ , : 30.63
Chlorine, ; : ‘ : 2 reyes
Organic matter, ‘ : : ' trace

98:73

pnb? GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Phosphorus, potash, and soda are the chief constituents,
and the special manures indicated are common salt, bone-
dust, or superphosphate of lime, and ashes. Guano and
animal matter of all kinds are valuable manures.

Culture-—The water melon likes a deep, rich, sandy
soil. Where this plant is most successfully cultivated, it
always grows upon sand. ‘The hills should be seven or
eight feet apart. In all other respects it is cultivated
exactly in the same manner as the musk melon and cu-
cumber. It should not be grown within one hundred feet
of other melons, gourds, &c., if you would gather pure
seed. Protect from insects as directed in the article, “ Cu-
cumber.’”’ The melon worm does not annoy the watermelon.

Use—This is a wholesome fruit, very popular in sum-
mer from its beauty and the refreshing coolness of its
juice. It is not very nutritious, as it contains ninety-five
per cent. of water. It is not by any means as nourishing
as the musk melon, and lacks its peculiar rich flavor. The
outer rind is used for preserves. The seeds are valuable
in urinary complaints. In many parts of Europe the
juice is boiled into a pleasant syrup or made into beer.

Cucurbita Melopepo—SQuasuH.

The squash is a tender trailing annual, thought to be
the connecting link between the melon and the pumpkin,
and was first brought to England in 1597. It is a native
of the Levant. It is a much esteemed garden vegetable,
and in some of its varieties can be had for the table the
greater part of the year. The best summer squashes are
the Early Bush, of yellowish white color, and scolloped or
patty-pan shaped, and the Early Bush Crooknecked, a
small crooknecked sort, yellow, covered with warts, but
excellent. These are very early, and their dwarf growth
renders them most desirable for the garden.

SQUASH. 213

The best winter squashes are the Acorn, an old variety
named from its shape, the seeds of which are difficult to
obtain ina state of purity, the Lima Cocoanut, a large, long
fine-grained kind, and the Boston Marrow, now much
raised in the northern States. The Cashaw pumpkin is a
pretty good substitute for the winter squash.

Culture—lIt is planted at the same time as the cucum-
ber and melon. Put six or eight seeds in a hill, and thin
out to two or three when they get up. The bush squashes
should be five feet apart, andthe winter varieties at least nine
orten. For cultivation see Cucumber and Melon. Protect
from insects in the same way. Squashes are much better
grown in rich soil; do not plant them near the cucumber
or melon, if you would not have worthless seed from all
the plants in their vicinity. Gather summer squashes
while the finger nail can easily penetrate the rind; they
must be gathered as soon as fit for use, or the fruitful-
ness of the vines will be much impaired. To keep winter
squashes, they must be put away in a cool, ssh place, free
from frost.

Use-—The squash is a very wholesome and tolerably
nutritious vegetable, prepared for the table in the same
manner as the turnip, for which it is an excellent sub-
stitute to eat with fresh meat. To be fit for use after
being boiled tender, it must be squeezed between two
plates, for when full of water, as it is often served, it is
not fit to be eaten. The winter squash should be boiled
dry ; it makes a good pie, like the pumpkin and the sweet
potato.

To Boil.—W hile young and tender, boil whole, otherwise
cut in strips, and remove the seeds; when boiled, mash,
drain and season with butter, pepper, and salt.

214 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Cucurbita Succada—VEGETABLE MARROW.

This is a species of gourd from Persia, useful for the
kitchen in every stage of its growth. It is cooked like the
ege-plant when young, when half grown it is used as the
squash, and baked into pies when matured ; cultivated like
the squash, but appears not to be very productive. Hills
six feet apart.

Cucurbita Pepo—PuMPKIN.

Also a trailing annual, a native of India and the Levant,
with globular or cylindrical fruit. It has become so crossed
and intermingled with the squash, that it is difficult to say
of some varieties to which species they should be referred.

The best variety for family use is the Cashaw, a long
cylindrical curved variety ; swollen at the extremity, of fine
creamy yellow color, very solid and excellent to use as a
winter squash and quite as valuable as any for the other
purposes. The Valparaiso is also a good variety. Pump-
kins are not as particular about soil as melons and
cucumbers, but will grow well on any tolerably rich ground
It is not best to grow them in the garden, as they will
mix and corrupt the seed of the other varieties. They
like a soil freshly reclaimed from the woods; the field is
the proper place for their cultivation. Plant in March or
April, when the main crop of corn is put in; let the hills
be ten feet apart. Hoe frequently and keep clean. Let
only one or two plants remain in each hill. Do not earth
up the plants, but keep the soil about them light and
loose with the hoe, until the vines prevent further culture.

Use.—In France as well as in New England, the pump-
kin is much used for stews and soups. It is quite whole-
some, and the most nourishing of -any of this family of
plants. The best kinds, as Cashaw and Valparaiso, are

ARTICHOKE. 215

excellent substitutes for the winter sq1ash, and make an
~ excellent pie. ‘They are also a valuable food for cattle.
They can be preserved by boiling and drying the pulp in
an oven, or by cutting in strips and drying by the fire,
or will keep very well whole, if in a cool, dry place, free
from frost.

Pumpkin Pie-—Pare the pumpkins, cut them into small
pieces, and stew them in just water enough to prevent
“their burning, let them stand over a slow fire until quite
soft, then strain them through a sieve or colander, and to
one quart of pumpkin add one quart of rich milk or cream,
six eggs, one table spoonful of ginger, a grated nutmeg, a
little salt, and sweeten with sugar or molasses to your
taste. Bake very thoroughly without an upper crust.

Cynara Hortensis and Scolymus—A RTICHOKE.

The garden artichoke is a perennial plant, a native of the
South of Europe, where it has been in cultivation from the
time of the Romans. Columella mentions it, and says its
' name—cynara—is from cinere (ashes), because the soil for
artichokes should be dressed with ashes. ‘The plant is a
sort of overgrown thistle, but more beautiful, with large
pinnatified leaves, three or four feet long, with an ash-
colored down, the head of which, when it is fit for use,
before it begins to bloom, is about the size and somewhat
the shape of a small pineapple.

As the artichoke is a native of a hot climate, it is per-
fectly adapted to the temperature of the Southern States
and adds a pleasant variety to our early summer luxuries,
which should bring it into more general cultivation.

There are two kinds of the garden artichoke, the cynara
scolymus or oval green, and the cynara hortensis or globe;
as the edible parts of the latter are larger, and of a finer

216 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

flavor, it is preferred as a garden vegetable, though the
scolymus is more hardy and productive in cold climates

The ash of the artichoke has been analyzed by Rich-
ardson, and found to be constituted as follows :—

Potassa, . : : : ‘ . 24.04
Soda, .. : F : A : 5.52
Lime, : : : : : - aie
Magnesia, . : : Q : 4.14
Sulphuric Acid, ‘ : : . ee
Silicie Acid, . P é : : 7.02
Phosphoric Acid, . ; : . 36.23
Phosphate of Iron, : : . 4.74
Chloride of Sodium, . : : ae

100.00

Potash and phosphoric acid are the most abundant con-
stituents, indicating the application of ashes and bone-dust
as the best special manures.

Propagation and Cultwre—Artichokes are propagated
by seed, or by off-sets from the old roots. If by seed,
sow in February or the first of March, in drills an inch
and a half deep, and a foot apart in very rich earth; if
you have it to spare, they do still better by sowing them
earlier in a cold frame. Transplant them when from six
to twelve inches high into a very rich soil. If the beds
are thinned out by transplanting, so that the plants are
left a foot apart in the rows, they may remain in the seed
bed until fall. The finest heads are produced in a rich
moist loam, and into such a soil they should be trans-
planted. The best compost is a mixture of three parts well
decomposed manure and one of leached ashes. They
require an open exposure, free from the shade and drip of
trees, or the plants will spindle and produce worthless
heads. The rows must be four feet and a half apart, and

ARTICHOKE. yal,

the plants three feet in the rows. Plants from seed are
better and more permanent than from off-sets.

If propagated by suckers these must be slipped off early
in spring from the parent plant, retaining as many fibrous
roots as possible. ‘They should be selected when eight or
ten inches high, and from those shoots which are sound
but not woody. The brown hard part next the old stem
must be removed, and if that cuts crisp and tender, the
plant is good; if it is tough and stringy, throw the shoot
away as worthless. Further, the large outside leaves
must be removed, so that the heart appears above them, or
their exhalations will exhaust the plant before it gets
rooted. ‘They are greatly invigorated if set in water three
or four hours before they are planted. Set them in rows
the same distance as-above, with about half their length
beneath the surface; water them abundantly until estab-
lished and also during summer droughts. The only other
attention they require during the summer, is the frequent
use of the hoe. ‘They will produce heads the same year
from June to October, and annually thereafter from April
to June or July, according to the season. ‘The quality is
improved, though at the expense of the quantity, by allow-
ing only the head surmounting the main stem to grow on
each stalk, removing all the laterals of the stem while
young. As often as the head is cut, the stem should be
broken down close to the root to encourage the production
of suckers before winter. ‘They should receive their win-
ter dressing early in December. Cut away the old leaves
without injuring the centre or side shoots, dig the ground
over and throw the soil in a low broad ridge over each row
putting it close about the plants, but leaving the hearts
clear. As soon as the shoots appear four or five inches
above the surface, the ridges thrown up must be levelled
and the earth removed from about the stock to below the

10

218 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

part whence the young shoots spring. Remove all these
shoots but two,or at most three,of the most vigorous, tak-
ing care to select those from the under part of the stoek ;
the strong, thick ones from the crown, having hard woody
stems, produce but indifferent heads.

Although the artichoke is a perennial, yet after the
fifth year, the heads grow small and dry. The beds
should in consequence be broken up at this time, or as
soon as they begin to fail and fresh ones be formed on
another site. Artichokes are made to attain a much larger
size than they otherwise would by twisting a ligature tight-
ly around the stem below each, and thus preventing the
reflux of the sap.

The artichoke is much benefited by the application of
sea weed or any other manure containing common salt. This
is probably in a great measure because salt keeps the soil
moist.

For Seed.—Select a few of the finest heads and permit
them to flower. Bend over the stalk and tie the head to
a small stake to prevent the water from settling in the
expanded calyx. When the flower has withered the seeds
are ripe. One ounce of the seed will produce about six
hundred plants, and for three years will vegetate freely
if kept cool and dry. Put away in paper bags for use.

As the newly-made beds come into flower after the
season for the old plants is over, those fond of this vege-
table will prefer to make a new plantation every year.

Properties and Use—The artichoke is wholesome, yet
it contains but little nutriment, and is cultivated merely
to please the palate. The heads are sometimes pickled.
It is eaten by the French as a salad, with oil and
vinegar, salt and pepper; the bottoms are often fried in
paste like the ege-plant. The English gather them when
they spread their scales and the flower appears about to

GARDENS 219.

open ; the whole head is boiled and the scales pulled off, one
or two at atime, dipped in butter and pepper, and the mealy
part stripped off with the teeth. The bottom, when the
leaves are disposed of, is eaten with the knife and fork
The flowers have the properties of rennet in curdling
milk. Medicinally the artichoke is of little use.

To Boil.—Throw the heads as soon as gathered into
cold water and let them lietwo hours. After being soaked,
put them into hot water with salt and keep them boiling
until tender, which will take about two hours. Dress
and trim them, and serve them up with melted butter and
other seasoning to suit the taste.

Chards—After the best heads have been cut, cut off
the stems as low as possible, and the leaves within six
inches of the ground. When the new leaves are two feet
high, blanch them, as directed for Cardoons, which many
think they excel.

Cynara Cardunculus.—C ARDOON.

The Cardoon is a hardy perennial plant, a native of
Candia, introduced into England in 1658. It resembles
the artichoke, but is of larger size, some five feet in height
with the leaves spreading out widely. In continental |
Europe it is considerably cultivated, but it is a fancy
vegetable, cultivated mostly as a curiosity, and being of
no great merit as an esculent. ‘There is but one variety
cultivated. .

The soil must be light, deep, well pulverized and toler-
ably rich. Sow the seed early in April, in drills ten in-
ches apart, giving the plants, as soon as they come up
strong, each five inches of space. They will run to seed
too soon if sown earlier. Transplant carefully with a
trowel, choosing a wet day, when six or eight inches high,
into the place where they are to remain, being any ordinary

220. GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

compartment of tolerably rich, well-dug soil, five feet apart
each way. Remove the long straggling leaves. Water
in dry weather until they take root. Keep the ground
loose about them, hoeing up all the weeds. When the
plants are eighteen inches or two feet high they must be
blanched.

The decayed leaves must be removed, and the rest
closed together by strings or bass matting. Then bind up
the plant carefully with twisted bands of hay or straw,
beginning at the root. Select a dry day or the plants will
rot. Bind up two-thirds of the height of the stem, then
dig and break the ground and earth up to nearly the same
height. As the plants grow, continue to tie and earth up.
Watering liberally in hot weather is the only way to keep
them from seeding. When the plants are blanched eigh-
teen inches or two feet, they are fit for use. They will
blanch fully in about two or three weeks. Do not let the
earth get between the leaves or they will decay. They
may be also sown in the rows where they are to remain,
and thinned gradually to the proper distance.

For Seed—Leave a few full-grown plants unblanched
to stand the winter and they will shoot up to seed the
next season.

Use—The stalks rendered white and tender by blanch-
ing, are used in stews, soups, and salads, the leaves and
stems being white and crisp for two feet in length. The
plant is not very nutritious.

Cyperus Esculentus—CuuFAS OR EARTH ALMONDS.

A perennial, indigenous to Southern Europe, growing
in the form of a rush, some three feet high, producing
small tubers the size of a common bean, and called by the
Valencians “ Chufas.’”’. It was one of the plants distributed

CARROT. “Ont

by the Patent Office in 1854, and from its report this arti-
cle is slightly condensed.

— Culture—It should be planted here in April, after the
frosts are over, in bunches two feet apart each way, ten
or twelve tubers in each, about six inches asunder. As
soon as the first shoots appear, the ground should be
watered, and every ten days thereafter, should there be
no rain. Carefully eradicate the weeds, which is all the
cultivation required. Pinch off the flowers when they
appear, that the tubers may be of a larger size. When
they arrive at maturity, they may be dug out of the
ground and stored away. Indrying they lose about one-
third of their weight.

Use.-—The tubers resemble in taste a delicious chestnut
or cocoanut, and may be eaten raw or cooked. Soaked in
water, they are eaten asa sauce. ‘They are also mostly
employed in making an orgeat, a delightful and refresh-
ing drink, much used in Spain, Cuba, and other hot cli-
mates where it is known.

Dancus Carota—CaRROT.

The carrot is a hardy biennial, found wild in Great
Britain and various parts of Europe, growing in sandy soil
or by road-sides. The root of the wild plant is small,
white, dry, woody, and strong flavored; while that of the
cultivated variety is large, succulent, and generally of.a
reddish yellow or pale straw color. The cultivated carrot
is however thought to have been brought into Europe
from the island of Crete, where it was early cultivated.
It was carried to England by Flemish refugees in the days
of Elizabeth, and the leaves were thought beautiful
enough to be used in ladies’ head-dresses. Cultivation has
thus changed a wild, worthless plant into the most nutri-
tious of all roots.

222 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

The best varieties for the garden are

Early Horn, which is very early, high colored, and
sweeter than the other varieties. It does not grow so long
as the others, and may be known by its conical root short-
ening abruptly to a point It will grow closer together,
and is better on shallow soils than the other kinds.

Early French Short Horn is an earlier and superior va-
riety of the above; for an early crop the best.

Altringham.—Color, bright red, and growing with the top
an inch or two above ground, which sometimes freezes in
very severe winters, if left in the ground. Of excellent
quality.

Long Orange. Is paler in color, and of great length,
the root not above the ground. It is next in quality to
the above, and best for winter use. The ash of the roots
and leaves of carrots has been analyzed by Way and Ogs-
ton, and found to be constituted as stated below:

ROOT. LEAVES.
Potassa, : . 34.)5 7.28
Soda, : : : mR BE 9.46
Lime, . ‘ 3 2 9.76 34.98
Magnesia, : Pues He" i's. 2.50
Sesquioxide of Tron, : 74 4.06
Sulphuric Acid, : pee Pe 6.68
SHE: Wea ee - ‘ .76 7.39
Carbonic Acid, : Pree eee LS 16.29
Phosphoric Acid, . : 8.37 2.55

Chloride of Sodium . Sapte ts 3 8.77

The salt and lime mixture, composted with leaf mould
or swamp muck, a little plaster of Paris, bone-dust, and
wood-ashes, are the special manures needed by the carrot.
A little common salt is worth much more for this crop
than its value in good manure.

Julture—Carrots like a light and fertile soil, dug full

CARROT. 923

two spades deep for the long varieties, as they require a
deeper soil than any other garden vegetable. The manure
should be put as near the bottom as you can get it; but
the soil should be fertilized by a previous crop if you
would have fine, smooth roots. Guano is an excellent ap-
plication to this vegetable. The seeds may be sown in
beds four feet wide, any time from January to April inclu-
sive, thinly in drills, twelve inches apart. Cover the seed
about half an inch deep. A carrot seed is very slow to
vegetate. The short-topped, scarlet radish may be sown
thinly in the same drills, just to mark the rows, that they
may be cultivated before they are overgrown with weeds.
By the time the carrots are well up, the radishes will be
fit topull. The ground should be kept well worked, light,
and mellow. ‘Thin the young plants, when two or three
inches high, to six inches apart. In short, the culture of
carrot is exactly the same as for the beet, which see. Six
hundred bushels have been produced from one acre. ‘The
carrots need not be pulled, but may be left safely in the
ground to draw as wanted for use during the winter. In
severe weather, they may be protected by a covering of
litter; but it is hardly necessary, except for the Altring-
ham.

For Seed—It is much the best practice to leave some
of the finest plants where raised, to blossom and seed the
next summer; save only the principal umbels. Hach head
should he cut as it turns brown, dried in the shade, rubbed
out, and dried in paper bags. The seed will not vegetate
if more than two years old.

Use—The carrot is a very wholesome food for man or
beast. It contains almost six times as much nutriment as
the Ivish potato in the same weight. It not only gives
sustenance itself, but renders other food more easily digest
ible, according to Professor Mapes.

ps ae GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

It contains large quantities of pectin acid, which has the
peculiar property of gelatinizing all fluids with which it is
mixed, thus making them easily to be digested. This
renders them, aside from their flavor, a very valuable ad-
dition to all stews and soups. It is also boiled plain,
pickled, and made into puddings and pies. Boiled or grated
itis an excellent poultice for foul and cancerous ulcers.
The grated root is often added to cream to improve the
color of winter butter. One carrot grated into cold water,
will color cream enough for eight pounds of butter, with-
out any injury to the flavor. One bushel of boiled carrots
and one of corn, are said to be worth as much as two
bushels of corn to feed to pigs. 'They are excellent for
feeding horses and milch cows, and for this purpose are
the most profitable of all roots in deep fertile soils.

To Boil—Boil, without peeling,:two hours, or until ten-
der; remove their skin, cut them in slices, and serve with
butter and salt; pectin acid to the contrary, they are not
very digestible unless perfectly boiled.

Carrot Pies—These should be made like pumpkin pies.
The carrots shouid be boiled very tender, skinned, and
passed through a colander.

Diescorea Batatas—CHINESE YAM.

This plant was introduced some six years since into
France by Montigny, the French Consul at Shanghai. It
has anuual stalks or vines, and perennial tuberous roots.
The leaves are opposite, triangular, cordate, acuminate
above, with round basilar lobes, seven or eight nerved,
converging towards the top. ‘The length and breadth of
the leaf is about equal, having a smooth and glossy surface,
and of a deep green color. Its footstalks are half the
length of the leaf, furrowed, and of violet color. Its flow:
ers are dicecious, and of a pale yellow color. |

CHINESE YAM. 225

Culture—In autumn the smallest tubers are selected
and preserved from frost by covering them in a pit with
earth and straw. In spring these are planted near each
other in a trench, in well-prepared soil. When they have
put out shoots a yard or two in length, they cut off the
joints and leaves containing the buds, and plant for repro-
duction. For this purpose they form the ground into
ridges, on the top of which a shallow trench is made with
the hand or a hoe, in which these joints are planted, cover-
ing them slightly with fine earth, and with the leaves ris-
ing just on the surface. Should it rain they will shoot
immediately ; if not, water them gently untilthey do. In
fifteen or twenty days they develop new stalks and tubers,
the former of which must be removed from time to time to
prevent their taking root on the sides, and thus injure the
development of the tubers already formed. Another
method is to cut the tubers into fragments of moderate size,
placing their eyes in small pots, to be transplanted into
a deep, rich soil when the danger from frost is over. March,
in this latitude, would be the time for potting to transplant
in April. Probably they should be planted about twelve
inches asunder, in rows three or four feet apart, and culti-
vated like sweet potatoes, except no earthing-up is re-
quired. Where roots are required for reproduction, and
not for the table, let the vines as they extend be buried
horizontally, just beneath the surface, with the midrib of
the leaves resting on the ground. Small tubers, about the
size of a pea, will be formed at the angle of each leaf, which,
if kept until the next spring, will grow with as much vigor
as if produced from the cut tubers.

Use—The roots, which are oblong and tapering, are the
edible part. The maximum size to which they grow is two
inches in diameter, the larger end tapering upward to the
size of the finger. They are covered with a brownish,

10*

226 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

fawn-covered skin, pierced by numerous rootlets. Under
this is a cellular tissue of a white opal color, very crispy,
filled with starch and a milky mucilaginous fluid, with
scarcely any woody fibre. When cooked it dries like the
Irish potato, the taste of which it resembles. Each plant
often produces several tubers, but generally only one,
ranging in weight from eight ounces to three pounds. It
is more nutritive than the Irish potato, which it may possi-
bly rival in esteem.

The Japan Yam has been cultivated the present season
(1855) in the United States, but mostly for the increase of
small tubers for reproduction. A friend writes me that he
has “cooked one and found it excellent.” It is still too
soon to say much about its mode of culture or value.

The other yams, Dioscorea sativa and alata, are culti-
vated onthe gulf coast to some extent, and inthe same
manner as the sweet potato, except that the vines are sup-
ported bya stake orpole. The Alata sometimes grows
three feet in length, and often weighing thirty pounds.
(See Patent Office Report for 1854.)

Ervum Lens—LENTIL.

The garden lentil is an annual leguminous plant cultiv-
ated in France for its flat seeds, of which two are contained
in each pod. Lentils like a rich sandy soil, and are planted
in April, with snap beans,as,like them, they are apt to be
injured by late frosts. ‘They are planted in drills covered
lightly, and the young plants must be cultivated like the
bean; which see. Harvest them when the pods begin to
turn brown. Green or dry they are cooked like beans,
and when dry, should be boiled two hours and a half.
Soak in water before boiling. When done add butter,
pepper and salt. They are an excellent addition to soups,

CORN SALAD—JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. 227

ww

being very nutritious, but like peas and beans, do not al-
ways agree with persons of weak digestion. From seed
obtained by me of the Patent Office, plenty of vine was
raised but not much seed.

Fedia Olitorta—Corn SALAD, OR FETTICUS.

Corn Salad, or Fetticus is a small annual plant, a native
of English wheat-fields. It has long, narrow leaves of a
pale glaucous hue, and very small paie blue flowers col-
lected in acorymb. It has long been cultivated in Eng-
lish gardens as a winter and spring salad.

. Cultwre—Corn Salad likes aloam of moderate fertility
not too heavy. It is raised from seed, one quarter of an
ounce of which wiil sow a bed four feet by fifteen. Sow
seed of the preceding year’s growth early in October, in
drills six inchesapart. ‘The only culture needed is to thin
the plants when well up to four inches in the drills, and
keep free from weeds by frequent hoeing. Gather the
leaves to eat while young, taking the outer ones as you
would spinach. It will be fit for use all winter. If de-
sired, another sowing may be made the first of February
for spring use.

For Seed.—Leave some of the plants to shoot up to seed
in the spring.

Use—It is used during winter and early spring, to in-
crease the variety of small salads, and as a substitute for
lettuce. In France it is boiled like spinach.

Helianthus Tuberosus—J ERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.

This is a hardy perennial plant, a species of sun-flower,
a native of Brazil, introduced into England in 1617, and
was much esteemed as a garden vegetable until the Irish
potato took its place The crops obtained in good soils
are enormous

228 =; GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

The salts found in the ashes are mainly potash oid lime,
the former very largely.

Culture-—lIt flourishes best in a rich, light adit dies an
open exposure, but will thrive in almost any soil or loca-
tion. Plant from December to March, either small tubers
or the large ones, cut into sets of one or two eyes, four
inches deep, inrows three and a half feet each way. Keep
the ground free from weeds and earth up slightly.. They
will be fit for use in the fall. Take care to dig them up
thoroughly, as the slightest piece will vegetate. They
will grow on land too poor for almost anything else
If the top be cut off one-half way down in August, it is
said by some that the size of the tuber will be very much
increased by the admission of air and light. This is
doubtful.

Use—The roots are eaten boiled, mashed with butter,
are considerably nutritive, and have a moist soft texture,
and tolerably agreeable taste. It is however, rather a
second-rate dish. They are better pickled im vinegar,
The plant is most useful in feeding cows and pigs, afford-
ing large quantities of food from quite poor soils.

Hibiscus E'sculentus—OxkRA.

This is an annual plant, a native of the West-Indies,
and much esteemed and cultivated wherever its merits
are known. It is of quite recent introduction into our
gardens. |

There are two varieties of Okra, the round, smooth
green, and the long fluted or ribbed white, but there
seems to be little difference in quality or otherwise, except
in the shape of the pods.

Okra likes a good dry soil. Any soil will produce it
that is good enough for the cotton plant, to the natural
family of which it belongs. The pods are not as pleasant

OKRA. 229

or early on over-rich soil. It is not planted until the
frosts are over, say about the first of April, as it is ex-
tremely tender, though it often comes up from self-sown
seed. The time of planting cotton is a very good rule,
though some may be put in as an experiment, two weeks
earlier. Make the drills three feet apart, sow the seed
rather thinly and thin out, when they grow large, to two
feet apart in the drill. Those thinned out may be trans-
planted and will make productive plants. No seed should
be allowed to ripen on those stalks from which the pods
are gathered for eating. As fast as the pods grow hard
or unfit for use, cut them off, for if left on, the stalk will
cease to be productive. If not allowed to ripen seed, the
plants will continue bearing through the season.

To Save Seed—Leave some of the earliest plants to
ripen seed, if you would have this vegetable in good sea-
son. Shell out the seed, and stow away in paper bags.

Use-——The pods gathered in a green state, and so ten-
der as to snap easily in the fingers, are the parts employed
in cooking. If old, they are worthless. They are very
wholesome, considerably nutritious, very mucilaginous,

.and. impart an agreeable richness to soups, sauces, and
stews. ‘They are also boiled simply in salt and water,
and served up with butter, pepper, &c. Okra can be pre-
served for winter use, by putting down the pods in salt
like cucumbers, or by cutting them into thin slices and
drying like peaches. When dry, put up in paper bags.
The seed is used as a substitute for coffee, which I think
it not very likely to supersede.

Okra Soup—Wash and slice thin two dozen young
okra; add two onions chopped fine; put into a stew pan,
with a knuckle of veal, a gallon of water, and a bit
of bacon; add six peeled tomatoes; stew until quite thick,
which will be in three or four hours and serve, with or

230 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

without the meat, as you like. A chicken, or a piece of
beef, may be substituted for the veal.

Haunilus Lupulis—Hor.

The hop is a plant with a perennial root, throwing out
many herbaceous climbing stems, and is found growing
wild on the banks of rivers in Europe, Siberia, and our
own country. It was cultivated in England, on or before
1525, when the old doggerel states:

‘* Hops, heresy, pickerel, and beer,
Were brought into England in one year.”’

A few roots should be in the garden, as they are useful in
making yeast and beer. .

Culture—It is propagated by dividing the roots in au-
tumn and spring. Give the plant a deep, rich soil; put
two or three plants, six inches apart, in a hill, making
with the plants, when set, a triangle, and the hills six or
eight feet apart. Keep the ground free from weeds, and
well stirred. Manure them every year. Give them poles
twelve or fourteen feet long, and two or three poles to
each hill. Gather when of a straw color, and you find the
inside of the hop covered with a plentiful yellow dust, and —
the seeds begin to be plump; dry them thoroughly, and
put them up in bags for use.

Use—We have said that the principal use of hop was
in the preparation of yeast, &. The young shoots and
suckers are boiled and eaten as asparagus. They are
very largely cultivated in fields, and used in the manufac-
ture of ale and strong beer. Its medicinal qualities are
tonic and soporifie A pillow filled with hops will produce
sleep, without the Il effect of opiates.

LETTUCE, 231

Lactuca Sativa—LETTUCE,

The botanical name of this plant is derived from Zac, the
‘Latin word for milk, on account of its milky juice. It is
an annual hardy plant, of which the cabbage varieties
probably originated in Egypt, The Cos lettuce, how-
ever, came from the Greek island of Cos, in the Levant.
It has been cultivated in England since 1562.

Of the two great families of lettuce, the Cos varieties,
which grow upright and of an oblong shape, and require
blanching, though more esteemed in England, do not, unless
sown early in October, succeed so well in this country.
The cabbage varieties are more hardy and free growing,
and better adapted to our common gardens. The follow-
ing have proved excellent with me :—

Butter or Early Cabbage.—Heads small, white, crisp,
and closely cabbaged; leaves pale yellowish green; ex-
cellent for hot-bed culture, as well as open air; early and
hardy.

Brown Dutch (yellow seeded).—Heads oun larger ;
equally tender and excellent, and closely headed; with
brownish green leaves. Will stand any frost, witout pro-
tection.

About two weeks after these, if sown at the same time,
will come into use the next three varieties :—

Royal Cabbage—Black seed; heads larger, and leaves
of a darker green than the early cabbage; equally firm
and. crisp.

Philadelphia Cabbage-—Of the same season, and equally
good,

Victorrea Cabbage-—Withstands the heat rather better
than the two preceding, and produces large white, crisp
heads ; perhaps the most desirable of the three.

After these come on :—

232 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH

Curled India —Leaf of a light yellow green, and very
much curled; a very distinct sort; heads large and close,
but not so fine and crisp as the other varieties, but will
continue to head much later. Ina rich, shaded situation,
if well watered and frequently hoed, it will make good
heads most of the summer.

White Cos—This is the best of the Cos varieties for
this climate. Leaves long; growth upright and vigorous,
like Endive, it should be tied afew days, and it will blanch
beautifully.

Paris Green Cos—An upright grower; crisp and excel-
lent; also requires tying.

Here follows an analysis of the ash of the stalks and
leaves of lettuce, made by Griepenkerl:

Potassa,:.. : . A : . ee

moda, .. A : : ; - . Lae
Lime, : A ¢ ates », 04S
Magnesia, . : : : 5.68
Sesquioxide of Iron,. . ; 2 .: Bsa

a3 “ Manganese, . j trace
Sulphuric Acid, . , : . 3.85
Silica, . : i : - 1 ERB
Phosphoric Acid, E : : pre

Chloride of Sodium, 3 : 2 OS

99:92

The analysis would seem to indicate the application of
wood ashes and common salt as the most important requi-
sites for this crop, besides animal manure.

Cultwre.—In raising good lettuce there are three things
necessary, good seed, good soil, and frequent hoeing, and
of these the first is perhaps the most important. There is
generally no difficulty in making lettuce seed vegetate,
but if it is not made from good heads it will not produce
heads even with the best culture. Lettuce likes a good

LETTUCE, 233

mellow soil enriched with well rotted manure. Do not
think of getting good heads on poor ground. Few of the
Qos lettuces, except the white Cos and Paris, do well here,
and fine cabbage lettuce is less trouble to raise, and good
enough for any table. Lettuce may be sown in October
and November, and again from January to April. That
sown in the fall, except the Cos varieties, will come on
earlier, but is not so good as the heads from the spring
sowing. Sow thinly in drills eight inches apart. An ounce
of seed will produce about ten thousand plants. Let the
seed be very lightly covered, and if dry weather, press the
earth upon it by walking over it on a board, or patting it
with the back of the spade. Beds about four feet wide
are most convenient. Ifthe lettuce comes up too thickly
in the drills it must be thinned, as the plants begin to
crowd, to two inches apart. Transplant into the ground,
where it is to remain when the plants show four leaves.
The Early Cabbage may be planted nine inches apart each
way; but the other varieties will not do with less than a foot.
The soil into which they are to be removed to head must be
rich, light,and mellow. Transplant in moist weather with
a trowel, disturbing the roots as little as possible. Water
the plants until established. Rabbits are very fond of let-
tuce, but can be kept off by dusting the young plants with
ashes. After the young plants get established, give them
deep and frequent hoeings; and if you sowed good seed
there can be but little danger of your not being rewarded
with beautiful crisp heads. The October sowing should
be of the Butter and Brown Dutch and Cos varieties. This
will yield small salad in mild weather through the winter,
besides plants for early heads. A second sowing of these
should be madein February. The later kinds may be put
in as late as April with success. If no lettuce has been
sown in October or November, for heading early in, the

251 - GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

spring, a little should be sown in January in a cold frame
under glass. Give it plenty of air, but keep it covered
nights and cold days, and as the weather grows mild leave
off the glass altogether a little while before setting out in
the open air. ‘The early sown Butter lettuce may also be
transplanted under glass at nine inches apart, and the table
be kept supplied in this way with fresh heads all winter.
Plenty of air must be given them, and they should be
covered in freezing weather only. Hoe deep and often.
For a fall heading, a crop can be sown in August at the
same time with turnips in a shady situation, which being
transplanted, will give good heads in Novemberand Decem-
ber. The fall and summer sowings do much better if
thinned to a suitable distance, and allowed to head where
they stand, as lettuce plants are very impatient of trans-
planting in hot weather. The Butter and the Brown
Dutch are the best for this sowing.

Seed.—Some of the finest and most perfect heads of the
early sown crops should be selected. Unless from a good
head the seed cannot be depended upon. Each variety
must be kept separate, and all imperfect heading plants
near them destroyed. Tie them to stakes and gather the
branches as fast as they ripen. Dry the seed in the shade,
and thresh and store in paper bags. Lettuce seed cannot
be relied upon when more than two years old.

Use.—Lettuce is the most popular of all salads, and it
is also sometimes used in soups. Boiled, it is quite equal
to spinach. It is fit to boil from the time it is large
enough until the seed stalk begins to shoot up. Its juice
contains a narcotic principle somewhat like opium, which
is in small proportions when young, but increases with the
ago of the plant. This principle has not the constipating
effects of opium, A tea prepared of lettuce leaves is bene-
ficial in cases of diarrhceea. For a common salad, let the

CRESS—BASIL. 235

leaves be carefully picked early in the morning, washed
and drained before sent to the table, and provide salt,
oil, sugar, and vinegar, that each person may season to his
taste. The finer salads require hard-boiled eggs, mustard,
and other spices, &c.

Lepidum Satiwwm—CrEss.

Cress, or “ Peppergrass,”’ as the best variety has been
named from its pungent flavor, has been cultivated in Eng-
land since 1548, being probably a native of Persia or
Cyprus.

Cultwre-—Oress likes a light, moist mould, and in sum-
mer a shady border is to be preferred. It is propagated
from seed which, to keep up a succession of young and
tender plants, must be sown every week or two. Give it
rich earth that it may grow rapidly. It is best when an
inch high, but is generally allowed to get two or three
before cropping. Begin to sow in February, in the open
ground, in drills six or eight inches apart; cover lightly,
and pat over the bed with the back of the spade to press
the earth upon the seed. Keep the ground clear, and
water in dry weather. It can be had all winter by the use
of the cold frame or hot bed, and in the latter case can be
grown fit for use in forty-eight hours; give plenty of air.
A few rows left uncut will produce seed abundantly.

Use—The young and tender leaves give to salads a
‘warm, pungent, and agreeable taste. It is generally used
in connection with lettuce and other salads.

Ocymum—BasIL.

Ocynum Basilicwm, Sweet Basil, and Ocymum Minimum,
Bush Basil, are the names of the two species in cultivation.
Both are annuals and natives of the East Indies, with
small leaves and small white flowers. Sweet basil is the

\

236 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

species most cultivated, and was introduced into England
in 1548.

Culture —Basil likes a rich, light soil, free from shade.
The plants may be started early in March, under glass,
and transplanted when of sufficient size where they are
to remain. Basil is rather difficult to transplant, but can
be carefully lifted in tufts with the balls of earth attached,
in a moist time,with complete success; give water until
established. They can also be sown on the borders where
they are to remain, but if sown too early in the open air,
the seed is apt to rot or the young plants to be killed by
frost as they are rather tender. Aprilis the month for sowing
in the open ground. Do not cover the seed deeply, but
press the earth upon it. Make the rows ten inches apart,
and thin the Sweet basil to ten inches and the Bush to five
inches in the row. Weeds must be kept under and the
soil mellow by frequent hoeing. Basil also makes a very
pretty edging. It should be cut not too closely just as it
comes into flower and hung up in small bundles in the
shade to dry for winter use; thus cut it will soon grow up
again. When thoroughly dried it may be pounded
fine and kept any length of time in closely stopped
bottles.

' Seed—Let some of the finest plants remain uncut and
gather the seed as they ripen.

Use.-—The leaves and small tops are the parts employed
and give a delightful flavor in cookery. They have a
strong flavor of cloves, and are much used in soups and
sauces, and other high seasoned dishes. They are much
employed in French cookery.

A small sprig of basil, on account of its odor, is an agree-
eble addition to a bouquet of flowers. It is the most
agreeable of the pot herbs and the most useful after
parsley and cage.

MARJORUM— PARSNIP. 237

Origanum—MARJORAM.

The name Origanwm in Greek signifies delight of the
mountain, and this plant is thus named from its growing
in dry, elevated situations. Jour species of this plant are
cultivated, of which two are sufficient for the garden.
These are

Origanum Marjoram—Sweet marjoram, a hardy annual
or biennial plant, a native of Portugal, and introduced into
English gardens in 1573. It has small, acute leaves, and
it flowers in small, close heads.

Origanum EHeracleoticwum—Winter marjoram, a hardy
perennial, a native of Greece, and first cultivated in Eng-
land in 1640. Leaves like the preceding, but flowers in
spikes.

Cultwre-—Marjoram likes a dry, tolerably rich soil, and
free from shade. Sweet marjoram is propagated from
seed; the other, by seed or by dividing the roots in the
spring and fall. The plants must be watered until estab-
lished. Plants of Sweet marjoram should be six inches
apart; while twelve is not too much for the other variety.
‘Sow from February to April. As the seeds of the marjo-
ram are very small, the ground must be prepared very
finely, and a very light mark made for them, covering
them by drawing over them the back of the rake. The
culture is like basil, which see. To preserve the tops for
winter use, and to save seed, also see “ Basil.’

Use.—Both species are aromatics of sweet flavor, much
used in soups, broths, stuffings, &c. The young and ten-
der leaves are used while green, and the tops dried for
winter use.

Pastinaca Sativa—PARSnipP.

This is a biennial, a native of Sardinia and various parts
of Europe. It has long been an inmate of the garden. In

238 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

its wild state, it is said to have poisonous properties; but
it is rendered by cultivation sweet, palatable, and very
nutritious for man and beast. The garden parsnips have
smooth and light-green leaves, while those of the wild va-
riety are dark-green and hairy; but the two do not differ
so much as the wild and cultivated carrot. This plant is
of the hardiest nature, being improved by remaining in the
ground exposed to frost during the winter. The best va-
riety for the garden is the Hollow-crown or Sugar parsnip.
Its roots are smoother, more handsome, and better flavored
than the other varieties. It is distinguished by the cavity
or cup which crowns the root. The ash of parsnips has
been analyzed by Richardson, and found to be constituted
as follows:

Potassa, . 2 i ‘ : > 30,42
Soda, . P ; ; : 3 ae |
Time, - x : . ° Eres
Magnesia, . i ; 9.94
Sesquioxide of Manganese, ; : .89
Sulphuric Acid, . i : : 6.50
Silicic Acid, . : ; : . a
Phosphoric Acid, ] : 2 18.66
Phosphate of Iron, . d goal
Chloride of Sodium . ‘ : 5.54

100.00

Potash and phosphoric acid are the elements most
likely to be wanting in the soil, in sufficient quantity for
this crop. Bone-dust and wood-ashes will be the best ad-
dition which can be made.

Parsnips like a rich, sandy loam, the more deeply dug
the better. They do exceedingly well on rich bottom lands,
but do not succeed well in stiff clays. "The manure should
be applied to a previous crop. If the soil be dug two
spades deep, or trench-plowed, it will improve the crop.

PARSNIP | 239

Parsnip seed can be sown in January, February, and
March, in drills fourteen inches apart: scatter the seeds
thinly in the drills, and also sow radish seed thinly as di-
rected for carrots, to mark out the rows, as the seed is
slow in vegetating. If you do not need the radishes, cut
off the tops, and leave them to decay in the soil which
they will enrich. Pulling out the radishes lets in the air
and fertilizing gases to the roots of the young parsnips,
and the radishes are quite fit to pull by the time the
parsnips are well up. As they mark out the rows the beds
can be hoed before they get full of weeds. If sown alone
the beds are full of weeds before the parsnips are ready to
hoe, and the labor of culture is much increased. Thin out
the plants gradually to three, then to eight inches. Let-
tuce and cabbage seed may be sown in drills between the
rows of parsnips to be transplanted early. Parsnip’ seed
may also be planted in the fall; but there is no advantage
init. The details of the culture of parsnip are exactly
like carrot, which see. The roots need not be pulled until
needed for use.

For Seed.—A few of the best roots may remain where
grown, Keep free from weeds and they will yield abund-
antly. They may also be taken up and set out two feet
apart in a border; but they do better to remain undis-
turbed. The seeds cannot be depended on for more than
one year.

Use.—The parsnip is a very wholesome and nourishing
root, though its peculiar sweetish taste is disliked by many
persons. It is however a very agreeable addition to our
supply of winter vegetables. Its fattening properties are
great, and it is therefore an excellent root for feeding all
kinds of farm stock. Cows fed upon it will yield milk
abundantly, and butter of the best quality Its seeds are
sometimes employed in intermittents.

240 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

To Bowl—Parsnips are cooked as carrots, but they do
not require so much boiling. ‘They are often served up
differently, being mashed with some butter, a little cream,
and seasoned with pepper and salt.

Phaseolus Vulgaris—BUSH-BEANS OR SNAPS.

An annual, a native of India, brought to England in
1597. ‘The running beans belong to a different species,
and are treated of in a separate article. Bush-beans are
generally called snaps from their breaking crisply. The
following are good varieties :—

Kurly Mohawk.—Pods long, beans large oval with dark-
colored specks; it bears very well is the earliest variety,
and is least injured by frost. In good seasons, fit for the
table about five weeks after sowing.

Early Valentine-—Pods round, and continue crisp longer
than most other varieties. The beans are pink-speckled
ona salmon ground; bears well. Sown with Early Mohawk,
is about five days later.

Late Valentine—Pods similar to the foregoing, equally
crisp and tender, color dark brown speckled; a better
bearer and grows more thrifty than the foregoing. One
of the best sorts. About ten days later than the Mohawk.

Royal Kidney —Pods long, beans finely flavored, white,
and large, but later than any of the other varieties. Sown
at the same time, is a fortnight later than the Mohawk.
Of this variety the ripe beans, if they are gathered and
dried in an oven to prevent their destruction by the bug,
are excellent for winter use.

Besides the abovenamed, I have tried Turtle Soup,
Yellow six weeks, and several other varieties, but the
foregoing are the best.

Here follows an analysis of the ash of kidney beans
made by Richardson :—

KIDNEY BEANS.

Potassa, . 36.83
Soda, . J - 18.40
Lime, ; 4 i.:/0
Magnesia, 6.33
Sulphuric Acid, 3.96
Silicie Acid, . ‘ 4.09
Phosphoric Acid, 14.60
Phosphate of Iron, 5.24

241

Baie deol odie xi ee 3 4 2.80

100.06

Wood-ashes and bone-dust or superphosphate of lime,
will supply the soil with the most necessary elements for
this crop, which, by the way, like most legumes, draws
most of its sustenance from the atmosphere.

Cultwre-—Snap-beans are of the easiest culture in this
climate, and are less particular about soil than in colder
latitudes. he soil for the early crop should be dry and
light; if wet or tenacious the seed often decays without
germinating or comes up spindling and unproductive. For
the summer-sown crop, a soil slightly moist but still in-
clining to a sand, is to be preferred. As beans are very
tender and easily destroyed by frost, there is no use to
put them in the ground too early. A few may be planted
in March, but about the first of April is the proper time
for the first large planting. They may be planted for a
succession in moist weather from this time to the last of
August. Plant in drills eighteen inches or two feet a part,
and the seed two inches apart in the row. Cover the
seeds about an inch and a half deep. A pint of seed will
plant about one hundred and twenty five feet of rows.
When the plants come up, thin them gradually to six or
eight inches in the row and they will be much more vigor-
ous and productive. The Refugee or Late Valentine does
best in hills eighteen inches apart. Plant fi ur or five

11

242, GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

beans to a hill. Keep them clean always and the soil
light and mellow with the hoe. Draw the earth carefully
about their stems when about to flower, making broad low
hills to protect the roots from heat and drought. If well
cultivated the same plants will continue to bear well a
long time. Do not hoe any of the kidney beans whether
dwarf or runners when the foliage is wet, as the plants
will rust and be greatly injured, if not destroyed. Choose
dry weather for working them. For saving seed and use,
see “ Lima Bean.”

Phaseolus Limensis et Multiflorus—PoLE or RUNNING
BEANS.

The Phaseolus Multiflorus includes the Scarlet Runners,
London Horticultural, and many other good varieties, but
they do not continue long enough in bearing to warrant
their culture.in a hot climate. The Lima beans are also
much better flavored. Of the Phaseolus Limensis, there
are the green and white Lima and Carolina Sewee. They
are natives of South America. The white Lima is not
quite so large as the green, but bearing with greater
abundance, is to be preferred. It is also not quite so
hardy and productive as the Sewee, but is much larger
and richer flavored. |

Sewee or Carolina—This is the well-known and favor-
ite butter bean of the country. It closely resembles the
Lima bean, but is less in size, earlier, harder, and bears
much more abundantly, and though not quite so rich, is
for general culture the best running bean for this climate.

Culture—Lima beans require a rich, strong soil, and
will thrive on heavy loams, where the other running beans
and snaps would not flourish. They are still-more tender
than snaps, and should not be planted until settled warm
weather, as the seed will rot in cool weather, and the

LIMA BEANS. 248

slightest frost will destroy them if they chance to vege-
tate. The tenth of April is early enough in this climate.
Plant in hills five feet apart each way, around a good pole
eight or ten feet high, driven two feet into the earth. If
the poles are too high they are late in coming into bearing
“and out of reach in gathering. In planting the Lima and
other beans, place the eye downward and the narrow end
the lowest as the bean always rises from the ground in
that position, and if not planted right it has to turn itself
over in the soil, and if prevented by any obstruction from
turning over it is sure to rot in the ground. Planted in
this way, they come up sooner, better, and more evenly.
Cover about an inch anda half deep. Put four or five
beans around each pole, and when well up take out the
weakest, leaving but three plants. A quart of butter-
beans will plant about four hundred hills. The subse-
quent culture consists in keeping the ground frequently
hoed when the vines are dry. They will continue in
bearing until cut off by the hard frosts.

For Seed—Gather both the Lima and Kidney beans
when ripe and dry them thoroughly. The seed should
be kept pure by planting the varieties at a distance from
each other. As they are certain to be devoured by bugs,
if saved in paper bags, put them up in glass bottles or
earthen jugs well corked. Into each one pour before
corking, a teaspoonful of spirits of turpentine. The tur-
pentine odor will destroy the bugs without injuring the
vitality of the bean, if the vessel is tightly corked.

Use.—The tender fleshy pods of snap-beans are a favor-
ite summer vegetable, very delicate, wholesome, and
moderately nutritive. They are boiled and also pickled,
and may be preserved for winter use, by cutting them
into pieces and laying them down in salt. .They will
make their own brine, and must be kept covered by it or

244 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

they will spoil. Cook them in two waters to extract the
saltness. ‘The Lima beans and: the snaps when full grown,
are shelled and afford in proportion to their weight, more
nutrition than most other vegetables. Wheat contains
but 74 per cent. of nutritive matter, while kidney beans
contain 84 per cent. They abound in the constituents
that produce muscle and fat, and will supply better than
most vegetables, the place of animal food. They can also
be preserved for winter use. Gather them in their green
state when full grown, and dry them carefully in the sun.
They are better gathered in this state than if delayed
until ripe, and are also free from bugs. They must be
soaked over night before being boiled. They can also be
laid down with layers of salt like snap beans. ‘They are
very good gathered when ripe, and dried carefully in an
oven in order to keep them free from insects.

To Pickle—Beans may be pickled in a manner similar
to cucumbers.

To Boil Snap-beans——Cut off the ends, strip off the
strings, put in boiling water with salt and boil till tender.
Do not omit the salt in cooking vegetables; add butter
and pepper to the taste.

To Boil Lima Beans —Put them into just enough boil-
ing water to cover them, boil until tender, turn off almost
all the water ; season with butter salt and pepper.

To Bake-—Take two quarts of beans and three pounds
of pickled pork. Pick the beans over carefully, wash and
turn them about with a gallon of soft water to a pot. Let
them soak in it luke-warm over night; set them in the
morning where they will boil till the skin is tender and
about to break, adding a teaspoonful of saleratus. Take
them up dry, put them in your dish. Gash the pork and
put it down in the dish so as to have the beans cover all
but the upper surface; turn in cold water till the top is

wl otk te ON Pe! Sate. 7 he

PEA. 245

just covered ; bake, and let the beans remain in the oven
al. night.

Pisum Sativum—ENGLIsu PEa.

The Pea is a hardy annual, probably a native of the
South of Europe, China, and Japan, but has been cultiva-
ted from time immemorial. It is a climbing plant, pro-
ducing its seeds in legumes or pods which usually grow
in pairs. ‘lhe pea is now one of the most desirable culi-
nary plants. Numerous varieties have been originated
differing in the color of the blossoms, height, and time of
ripening, and also in productiveness. Of these, four or
five kinds are sufficient for any garden. Among the best
are:

Prince Albert —The earliest pea known, grows two and
a half feet high. Pods and peas are both small but well
flavored. A good bearer.

Landreth’s Extra Early—This celebrated early pea
comes into use about five days after the preceding, and
with the Cedo-Nulli. The whole crop ripens at once. It
is not very productive. ‘Two and a half feet high.

Cedo-Nulli comes into use with the preceding, and is a
much finer pea. It has a longer pod, which is better filled.
The vines are taller, and it bears about twice as many pods
to the stalks as the’ Extra Early; the most prolific of
early peas, and continues long in bearing; two and a
half to three feet high.

Fairbank’s Champion —This is the very best large pea:
a wrinkled marrow, of the highest excellence; grows
about four feet high, and bears abundantly with me, and
is the pea I prefer to all others for the main crop. The
peas are very large, slightly shrivelled, and of a bluish
east, when dry. It is about three weeks later than the
Prince Albert.

246 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Kmght’s Tall Marrow—Grows about six feet high;
bears a long time and abundantly, and is of first-rate ex-
cellence ; later than the above.

New Mammoth—A pea of the same height, and of equal
excellence with the foregoing; comes into use about the
same season; productive.

If the above are not to be had, Karly Frame, Early
Charlton, Early Grotto, Dwarf Blue Imperial, Blue Mar-
row, Banksian Marrow, Blue Prussian, Knight’s Dwarf
Marrow, and Woodford’s Prolific, are among the best re-
maining sorts.

The best three varieties for a succession are Prince
Albert, Cedo-Nulli, and Champion of England. If con-
fined to two, I should reject the Prince Albert, though the
earliest of the three.

An analysis of the ash of the seed and straw of peas has
been made by Erdmann, and is as follows :—

SEED. STRAW.
Potassa, : : : 40.70 ~ -Sa.30
Soda, ; : : : 1.50
Lime, . 4 e = 2AY 19.20
Magnesia, . : 7.03 3.90
Sulphuric Acid, ; : 4.17 6.60
Chlorine, . : : : 13.46
Silicie Acid, ‘ : 7.60
Carbonic Acid, : : 5.20

Phosphoric Acid, . : 44,42 6.90
Phosphate of Rs i Z 1.47 1.40
Sand, . : 3.80

100.00 102.86

Potash and phosphoric acid are large constituents of the
ash of the pea. Ashes and bone-dust, or superphosphate
of lime, especially the former, are likely to be the special
manures most needed.

PEA, DAT

Culture—A moderately rich and dry soil is best suited
for the early pea and the dwarf varieties. ‘The late peas
and the lofty growers do better in heavier soil, and a cool,
moist situation. The manure should be applied early the
preceding autumn, to be well reduced by the time the
erop of peas are ready to feed upon it. In poor ground,
fresh stable manure is better than none. If the ground,
however, be extremely rich, there will be more vines than
fruit. Plant the early kinds from the first of January to
March, and the later ones until early in April. Some
plant in December. Plant the seed in double drills (made
with a line, if you would have the garden look neat), and
six to nine inches apart, according to the kind, and two
inches deep. Then cover them an inch deep with mellow
earth. ‘The rows of early peas should be three feet apart.
Champion peas should be four, and the taller kinds six. It
is a good plan to plant them all six feet apart, and a row of
melon or cucumber hills between them, to come on after
the peas are gathered. The space between the melon
hills can be used for lettuce or radishes. Early peas
should be planted in the drills, about an inch apart. The
medium growers an inch and a half; while for the tall
kinds, as Knight’s Tall Marrow, and the Mammoth, two
inches are not two much. A quart of seed of these vari-
eties will plant not quite fifty yards of double rows, while
a quart of early peas will plant nearly seventy twice as
thickly. After the peas are about two inches high, hoe
them well, drawing the earth a little toward them, and
loosening the soil between the drills, destroying every
weed. Repeat this once or twice, before brushing, which
should be done when the plants are six or eight inches
high. This may be done by sharpened branches of trees
prepared fan-shaped, and of a height proper for the pea to
which they are to be applied, or stakes may be driven

248 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

down every six feet each side of the drills, and lines of

twine stretched from one to the other. Pea brush is, how-
ever, the best, as the vines lay hold of it more readily. It
should be placed firm in the ground, between the drills.
After brushing, draw up the earth on each side, to help
support the vine. Market gardeners do not employ brush
or twine, but let them fall over and bear what they will.
This does tolerably well with the early varieties, if the
spaces between the rews be filled with straw or leaves.

Peas may be had in November, by sowing the early
kinds the last of August; but the crop is uncertain. A
little further south, peas may be planted not only in Au-
gust and September, but through the fall and early winter
months, and will continue in bearing until the warm wea-
ther comes on. ‘They are very hardy, and the vines will
ordinarily bear a temperature of only 2° Fahrenheit, with-
out injury. If a hard frost occur while the plants are in
bloom, the crop is lost.

Seed—The seed for early peas should be raised in a
cold climate, as in this latitude, like many other plants,
they run into later varieties. The plants of the rows
intended for seed should not be gathered from for any
other purpose. When the pods begin to dry, gather and —
dry them thoroughly, and store them in bottles, pouring
into each a little spirits of turpentine, as directed for pre-
serving beans. ‘I’be bean and pea bugs belong to the genus
Bruchus of Linneus, a family devouring the seed of many
leguminous plants, and the eggs of both species are de-
posited by the parent beetle in the soft pods, and directly
over the seed. The maggots work their way into the seed,
where they obtain their perfect form. The pea bug does
not usually destroy the germ, but its congener, the spe-
cies that infests the bean, is much more destructive, several
often inhabiting a single bean, and leaving nothing but the

@

BURNET. 249

outer skin and a mass of yellow dust. Spirits of turpen-
tine appears to be fatal to them.

Use—The garden pea is very wholesome and nourish-
ing, and an almost universal favorite. To have them in
perfection, they should be freshly gathered, and by no
means allowed to stand over night before use. They .
ean be shelled and dried in the shade, and form a tolerably
agreeable dish in winter, but they are much inferio® to
those freshly picked. They should be soaked a few hours
in water before using. Green peas should be boiled half
an hour or more. A very agreeable dish can be made,
when a few peas begin to be fit for use, by shelling them
and boiling them, pods and all, in the usual way. When
done, remove the pods, season to your taste, and pour the
peas and liquor over toasted bread. The pods, when
fresh, abound in the true pea flavor, and when boiled with
the peas and removed, contribute much to the richness of
the dish.

Poterium Sanguisorba—BuBner.

A perennial British plant, not much cultivated, and
probably never will be. It likes a dry, calcareous soil.
The leaves are green all winter. It is propagated by
seeds, cuttings, or dividing the roots. Sow the. seed in
February or March (or better in the fall, as it is slow to
vegetate), in a drill, six inches apart, and cover lightly.
Thin to six inches. Keep clean, and free from weeds.
A dozen plants will be enough. Make new plantations
once in three years, by dividing the roots in October.

Use-—The young leaves from young plants are to be
preferred. ‘They are used in cool tankards and salads,
and also by the French in soups, as they give a warm,
pleasant taste.

1

250 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Raphanus Satiwws—RabDIsH.

The radish is an annual, a native of China and Persia,
and was cultivated as early as 1584, being one of the
plants mentioned by Girard. The lower leaves are lyrate;
stem about two feet high, with pale violet flowers; the
root fleshy, spindle or globular shaped, of various colors.
There are two kinds of radish, the spindle-rooted, and the
globular or turnip-rooted. These are again divided into
early and late varieties, among which we will notice :—

Early Scarlet Short Top —Root long and spindle-shaped ;
leaves very short. It is the earliest, most crisp and mild
flavored, and requires less space than the other varieties.

Salmon.—A few days later; not so high colored; other-
wise similar to the above.

Red Turnip—Named from its shape, and bears the heat
better, without becoming hard, but not so good as the
above.

White Turnip—Like the last, in everything except
color.

Yellow Summer —This is a turnip-rooted variety, named
from its color, and will stand the heat better than any
other variety.

Black Winter or Spanish—Turnip-shaped, and very
large; sown in August or September with turnips. It
can be gathered from the ground as desired. during the
winter.*

* Karly Oval Rose Radish, and Chinese Rose Winter Radish, are
two new sorts. The former Mr. Barry considers the best variety for
_ forcing and the early crop, coming into use sooner than any other
variety. Tae latter he describes as ‘‘ far superior in appearance, as
well as in tenderness and delicacy, to any other winter sort, and
keeps well.’”’ These are good varieties, as I have proved; so also is
the Field Radish, introduced by the Patent Office from France for
stock ; a good winter variety for the table, and liked by stock.”’

RADISH. 251

J have tried all of the above, and finally settled down
upon the Scarlet Short Top, and the varieties from Mr.
Barry, as the only ones worth cultivating. The Scarlet
is much more crisp and digestible than any other, and by
successive sowings can be had in the open air, or under
glass, from October until the middle or last of May, by
which time one gets tired of radishes. The Salmon is a
very good radish, but most of the summer and winter vari-
eties are about as wholesome and digestible as a raw tur-
nip, and very little better flavored.

The following analysis is by Richardson :—

ROOT, LEAVES,
Potassa, d : f oie keLo 5.05
Soda, : : i a 11.09

Lime, . s : 3 : 8.78 27.90
Magnesia, : . 5 Lae 553 7.08
Sulphuric Acid, . : j evils 9.64

Silicie Acid, . : ‘ ei Omen 8.22
Phosphoric Acid, ; . 40.09 6.07
Phosphate of Iron, . j - 219 16.45
Chloride of Potassium, : 1.29

Chloride of Sodium, ; On 8.50

99.99 100.00

Potash and phosphoric acid are the most important con-
stituents, and the plants would probably be benefited by
the application of ashes and superphosphate of lime as
special manure.

Cuiture—Radishes like a rich sandy loam, dug a full
spade deep. Their culture is very simple. If manure be
freshly applied, it should be at the bottom of the soil, or
the roots will divide. The short-top variety is of great
use (we quote Professor J. J. Mapes) ‘in assisting seeds
of slow germinating powers to break the soil. They also
mark the rows at an early date, and enable weeds to be

252 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

cleaned out from between them. With carrot, parsnip,
parsley, leek, celery, and many other seeds, that germinate
slowly, the leaf of the radish will shade the rows, and pre-
vent the hot sun from baking these more delicate seeds.
They also prevent the growth of weeds, their long roots
bringing up moisture from the sub-soil, and pulling the
roots makes deep holes to admit air and moisture; thus
cultivating the standing crop more thoroughly than can
be done with a hoe.” They can also be sown in drills
between the wide drills of many of the above vegetables,
as well as spinach, peas, beans, Irish potatoes, yielding
large crops, and taking up no room available for other pur-
poses.

From the first of November until March a succession of
this variety can be grown under glass. All that is re-
quired is a bed of good rich loam, watering them ocea-
sionally, and giving air every day, when it does not abso-
lutely freeze. Let the sash be off every rain, and let the
earth come within seven or eight inches of the glass. The
open ground crop can be sown for fall use, if there should
be a wet spell in October, and in our low country from
that time until April. Here, however, the first of Febru-
ary is soon enough for the earliest spring crop, and you
may continue the sowings of scarlet radish at intervals of
two weeks, until the middle of April. If you wish later
radishes, choose the summer varieties for a month or
longer. Sow in drills an inch deep, and ten inches apart,
dropping the seeds three inches apart in the drills. They
are of such rapid growth, that they will generally take
eare of themselves after planting m a good soil, but hoemg
once will hasten their growth.

For Seed—Some of the finest and earliest can remain
where grown, or be removed to another bed and inserted up
to their leaves. Water frequently until established, and

RHU BARB. 258

while the flow2rs are opening. Let the roots be three feet
apart, and do not permit any others to flower near them,
if you wish pure seed. When the pods turn dry, gather,
dry, thresh out, and save in paper bags. The seed will
keep three years. It is best to get seed from a colder cli-
mate for the early crop, as the roots will come sooner into
use. Irom these, seed can be raised for the main crop the
ensuing year.

Use.—The tops used to be boiled for greens. The sem-
inal leaves, when they first appear, are used as a salad,
with cress and mustard, and the seed-pods, gathered young,
form a good pickle, and. are a substitute for capers. But
the roots are the parts mainly used. They are much
relished, while young and crisp, for the breakfast table.
They contain little beside water, woody fibre, and acrid
matter; so they cannot be very nourishing or wholesome.
When young, and of good varieties, they are much more
digestible than when older and more fibrous. The juice
of radish is said to be good for hoarseness and difficulty of
breathing.

Rheum Rhaponticum—RHvBARB.

The Garden Rhubarb is a perennial, a native of Asia,
first cultivated in England in 1573. The leaves are very
large, and supported by large petioles, which are the parts
used in cooking, and in the finer varieties are an inch or
two in diameter. It has not been much cultivated in this
country until within a few years; but now is in large de-
mand in all the northern cities, where the culture is very
easy. The best varieties are

Buast’s Early Red, with stalks about three feet long, and
a weel: earlier than Myatt’s Victoria. Being an American
plant, it stands the heat better than the European varie-
ties. Grows large.

254. GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Myatt’s Victoria.—A strong grower of excellent flavor and
quite early. These two varieties I have growing.

Downing’s Colossal—This is an American seedling,
raised by the late A. J. Downing, and of course may be
expected to be more hardy and worthy of culture in our
dry climate than the English varieties. I have not seen
it, but it is represented to be a very strong grower of the
highest flavor.

Myati’s Innneus—An imported variety, is now most
popular at the north.

The following analysis of the ash of rhubarb was made
by J. H. Salisbury :—

ROOT, LEAF-STALK, LEAF-BLADE,

pincie Aci, -. . 4.59 *. , 2 '"¥.507 27
Phosphates, ws Ba788) (ose BA 702 lei eae
Mhmes fete! ack) anti bA 4e S bas ait eee
Moonesiay, /\). diya Slog lhe sited mah
Petasa: oo. ce S49. os a 5.883) ee
SOG, fic 6 = s,s 2O.608 OC 37 OLS (oe
Doan, Ok Pee 66! 2 Test
Whiorine,.. «e207. 286 0001 SO BAS ob tee see
SulphuricAcids!i.;| 5.957.427: 6,868 4.4/5 ,qee ee
Organic matter
thrown down rt 8.494) cc. ATSOS), Simei
Nitrate of Silver,

100.000 100.000 100.000

_ Rhubarb is remarkable for the quantity of phosphates
and soda it extracts from the earth. Crude soda might be
added to the soil. Guano and bone-dust are very bene-
ficial.

Cultwre-—My first experience in raising rhubarb in this
climate was not very fortunate. <A friend, to whom I am
indebted for many really valuable plants, but unacquainted
with this, hearing that I had sent for the seed, kindly
offered me several roots which had been given to him for

RHUBARB. | 255 3

rhubarb, then growing in his grounds, as his family did not
like the plant. In consequence, I transplanted a dozen
roots in my garden. ‘The leaves were too small to agree
with my notion of rhubarb; but being winter, I supposed
_ it a different variety from the one I had before seen. In
the spring, when the plant sent up its leaves, it proved to —
be nothing in the world but Patience Dock. The seed
sent for,came on in season from Mr. Buist, and was planted
early in March. It came up finely, and proved to be the
genuine rhubarb. It was planted on the north side of a
fence, in a rich, moist soil, and grew finely in the early
part of the summer, but died out entirely in July and Au-
gust, which it is apt to do without great care in shad-
ing in ordinary seasons. The next autumn I procured
from Mr. Buist half a dozen roots of his early and Myatt’s
Victoria rhubarb, and after subdividing them, planted them
in a very deep, moist soil, on the north side of a fence.
They have grown vigorously the last summer, and we
were tempted to try them for a rhubarb tart, but did not
disturb them for fear of injuring the roots. The crowns,
now December, 1852, appear very healthy and filled with
good buds. JI have but little doubt that in their present
situation the plants will do well.

The soil best adapted for rhubarb isa light loam, rich
and moderately moist. It should be trenched two spades
deep. In this climate, it will scarcely endure the meridian
sun, but should be sheltered by fences and buildings; not
by trees. It is difficult to raise the roots here from seed.
They can easier be imported. Set out thirty inches apart.
Cover them in the fall about two inches deep, with well- .
rotted manure, which dig in the spring. Hoe them often,
and give a good watering occasionally in dry weather.

Rhubarb, to be good, must be quickly grown. This
plant is forced at the north in a cask which is put over it

256 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

and covered all around with hot dung; but in this climate
it would endanger the life of the plants. Do not let the ©
plants run up to seed. Every six or eight years the old
soil should be removed from the roots, and its place sup-
plied with fresh loam; or the plants themselves removed
to anew site. A dozen plants will be sufficient for most
families.*

Use-—The leaf-stem of this plant, when the external
skin is removed, is cut up in thin slices, and having ap
agreeable acid, is used exactly like the apple for pies, tarts,
and sauce, at a time that other fruits cannot be obtained.
Gather them while young, just as they attain their full
size, before they lose their fine favor. They can be gently
slipped from the root without using a knife. All medical
writers state that this is a wholesome vegetable, and it is
certainly an agreeable luxury.

When the roots are old, they possess the properties of
Turkey rhubarb, but in a less degree. Buist states that
the stems of the varieties used in cooking, if stewed with
sugar, and eaten with bread, are an infallible remedy for
dysentery in children.

Rumex Acetosa—SORREL.

A perennial plant of remarkable acidity, growing wild
in various parts of the world, and indicative of a sour, bar-
ren soil. The garden varieties are natives of Italy and
the south of France. The French sorrel has broad leaves,
and is the most pleasant flavored. Sorrel will grow in

** Many of my roots died in 1853 and ’54; but those which were
left produced abundantly, continuing in use about three months in
the early paxk of the season. I have now on trenched ground, two
spades deep, this year (1855) my whole stock. The exposure is
open, and they seem to prefer it to the partial shade I deemed desi-
rable when the foregoing article was written.

SAVORY. yay

any light, moist soil. It is propagated by seed or dividing
the roots. Sow the last of February, in shallow drills ten
inches apart, and as they come up, thin them to ten inches
in the row; or part the roots in the autumn and spring,
and set them out at the same distance. Water them oc-
casionally until well established. Keep the plants free
from weeds; cut down the stalks occasionally in the sum-
mer, and cover the crowns with a very little fresh earth
that they may send up large and tender leaves. When,
in two or three years, the plants begin to dwindle, replant
them in a fresh soil. For seed, let some of the stalks run
up and gather when ripe.

Use.—Sorrel is much used by the French in soups,
sauces, and salads, and also cooked as spinach, and when
cooked in this way with turnip tops is thought to improve
their flavor. Some use the leaves in pies as a substitute
for rhubarb. Sorrel is refrigerant, antiseptic, and a sover-
eign remedy for the scurvy.

Satureja—Savory.

There are two species in cultivation; the Summer savory,
Satureja hortensis, a hardy annual; and Winter savory,
Satureja montana, a shrubbly perennial—both natives of
Italy, and cultivated for their warm aromatic tastes.

Both may be propagated by seed. Sow in March,
moderately thick in small drills nine inches apart, and
rake in lightly. The soil need be but moderately rich.
The plants may remain to be thinned to six inches apart
for summer savory or the thinnings may be transplanted
to the same distance. Winter savory requires more room,
the plants should be a foot apart. This can be propagated
also by slips, cuttings, or division of the roots. All the
care required is to keep free from weeds. Seed can be

258 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

gathered as it ripens from a root or two left uncut for the
purpose.

Use-—The leaves of these herbs are much employed in
soups, salads, stuffings, &c., on account of their agreeable
pungent flavor. They are also said to possess the desira-
ble power of ‘* expelling fleas from a bed.”’ Formerly, they
were much used in medicine. Gather when they come into
bloom and dry for winter usé in the shade, pound in a
mortar, pass through a sieve, and put up in bottles closely
stopped and they will retain their fragrance any length
of time.

Scandix Cerefolr um—CHERVIL.

An annual plant, a native of Southern Murope, with
finely divided leaves somewhat resembling parsley. For-
merly it was much cultivated.

It is propagated from seed and should be sown in the
autumn or in February and March. Make the drills very
shallow and nine inches apart, and cover lightly with the
back of the rake. When the leaves are three or four
inches high they are fit for use. Keep them closely cut
and they will afford a succession for some time. Keep
the soil light and free from weeds, and let a few shoots
remain uncut to run up to seed.

Use-—The young leaves have a milder flavor than
parsley and are used in soups and salads, and also boiled.
«Chervil should be eaten” says an old writer, “ with oil
and vinegar, being first boiled, which is very good for old
_ people that are dull and without courage; it rejoiceth
and comforteth the heart and increaseth the strength.”
It is now nearly out of use, and seldom cultivated.

Scorzonera Hispanica—SCORZONERA.

Scorzenera is a hardy tap-rooted perennial, a native of
Spain, Italy, and the South of France, and cultivated in

MUSTARD. 259

England since 1576. The stem is two or three feet high,
few leaved, branched at the top. The flowers are yellow
and syngenesious.

Culture—It is raised from seed which must be sown
yearly. The soil like that for most root crops, must be
mellow, deep, and fertile. Sow in February or early in
March, in drills ten inches apart and half an inch deep.
When the young plants are two inches high, thin them to
six or eight inches in the drill. Keep the soil mellow and
free from weeds as they advance in growth. In short,
cultivate exactly like salsify. Give water in dry weather.
The roots will be fit to use in August, and may remain in
the ground to be dug as wanted.

To Save Seed— Let some old plants remain in the
spring, which will shoot up tall stems, and produce ripe
seed.

Use.—The roots are agreeable to the taste and nutritive,
byt before use, the bitter outer rind must be scraped off.
It is then boiled and used like salsify or carrots. The
roots continue good all winter. The plant is too similar
to salsify to render its cultivation an object where that is
grown.

Sinapis—MUSTARD.

There are two species of sinapis cultivated, the Alba,
usually employed in salads, and the Mgra of which the
seed furnishes the well known condiment.

The soil for mustard should be a good moist loam, but
for a winter crop it may be more dry. White mustard
may be sown any time of the year for a salad in the same
manner as cress, which see. It must be used when the
seed-leaf is just expanded, for if it gets into the rough
leaf it is fit for nothing but greens. For use, cut them
off with a sharp knife. They should be used soon after

260 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH

gathering or their good qualities will be much impaired.
The black mustard may be sown from September to
March. It will stand any frost and may be gathered for
greens at any time during the winter. Sow in drills thinly,
eighteen inches apart, hoe the plants as soon as they get
their fourth leaf, thin to three inches, and finally to ten
in the drill. Keep the ground clean and mellow by the
use cf the hoe during the season. When the pods change
color, gather,and thresh when perfectly dry. Seed of the
white variety may be raised in the same manner, or a few
plants may be left uncut in the salad bed for this purpose.

Use—The tender leaves of both species are used for
salads and should be more cultivated for this purpose.
They are also much cultivated for winter greens, but the
German greens are much superior in quality, and being
quite as hardy and easily cultivated should take their
place. The seeds of the white variety are ground, form-
ing the condiment known as the Durham or London table
mustard, but the flour of the black mustard is that from
which.our American table mustard is, or ought to be, made.
The seeds may be ground in a common spice mill or
crushed by a roller ona table. In this country the flour
is usually sifted after grinding, but the French do not
separate the husk, and thus make a brownish flour, more
powerful and palatable than the other. The mustard of
commerce is much adulterated, being often a compound
of wheat flour and red pepper colored with turmeric. The
seeds used whole are an excellent seasoning to various
kinds of pickles. Mustard is a very agreeable condiment,
assisting digestion and promoting appetite. It is also
much used in medicine both by the faculty and in domes-
tic practice. It is an acrid stimulant, and in large quan-
tities acts as an emetic. ‘The proper dose for the latter is
from a tea to a tablespoonful in a glass of water. Small

WATERCRESS—SKIRRET. 261

doses of mustard seed swallowed whole in water are often
useful in dyspepsia. Mustard seed is also a local excitant
applied to the skin in a cataplasm, made of the ground
meal with vinegar or lukewarm water; if mixed with —
boiling water the acrid principle will not be developed.

Sisymbrium Nasturtiwm—W ATER-CRESS.

This is a perennial English plant, growing in running
streams. There is but one variety in use. I give its cul-
ture that it may be tried in some of our clear up-country
streams.

The Water-cress likes a clear, cool, running stream,
fresh issuing from a spring, the nearer its source the
better, with the water about an inch and a half deep, with
a sandy or gravelly bottom. They must of course at first
be raised from seed which ean be sprinkled at the source
of some gravelly stream. If once established they will
soon propagate from self-sown seed. If the stems get
choked with mud and weeds, they must be taken up and
the beds cleared and replanted. ‘The shoots ought always
to be cut, as breaking injures the plants.

Use-—Water-cresses are generally liked for their warm
pungent taste, and are used alone or in mixed salads.
They are an excellent antiscorbutic and purifier of the
blood and a great favorite wherever known.

, Stam Sisarum—SKIRRET.

Skirret is a perennial umbelliferous plant from China,
and known in Europe since 1548. It grows a foot high
with pinnate lower leaves. The root is composed of
several fleshy tubers, the size of ate little finger, joined at
the crown.

Cultwre—Skirret likes a light, rich, rather moist soil,
with the manure applied at the bottom. It will not do

262 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

well in very dry ground in this climate. It is propagated
by seeds or by off-sets of established roots. Seedlings
produce the best roots. Sow any time in march, in drills
an inch deep and ten inches apart. Sprinkle a few radish
seed in the drill as directed for carrots. When the plants
are an inch or two high, thin to six or eight inches apart.
Cultivate like salsify and keep clear from weeds. They
will be fit for use in August but can remain in the ground,
to use as wanted, all winter. Slips of the old roots may
be set out nine inches apart and cultivated in the same
manner. Leave some of the plants in the ground and
they will throw up seed-stalks and ripen seed during the
summer following.

Use—The tubers are boiled and are very sweet, some-
what like the parsnip, and are thought more palatable.
They are boiled and served up with butter, or cold with
vinegar and oil, and are also cooked like salsify in batter.
It was formerly esteemed as “the sweetest, whitest, and
most pleasant of roots.”

Solanum Lycopersicum—TOMAto.

The Tomato is atender annual, a native of South Amer-
ica, and introduced into England in 1596. It belongs
to the same genus with the potato and egg-plant. It is
scarcely twenty years since its culture was commenced in
this country. ‘In 1828-9” says Buist, “it was almost
detested ; in ten years more, every variety of pill and pana-
cea was “extract of tomato.’ It was long cultivated in
the flower garden for its beautiful red and yellow fruit,
which was not used for food, but by many considered
poisonous. It is now one of the most popular vegetables
in cultivation, and springs up self-sown in all our gardens.
There are many varieties.

The Large Red which is cultivated all over the Union, is

ANALYSIS OF TOMATO, 263

one of the best.- It is patty-pan shaped, and extra large
specimens are sometimes six inches in diameter, or as
large as a common bush-squash. One of the best flavored
and very desirable.

Large Smooth Red is a new variety, ee well fla-
vored and a favorite in the kitchen, as it grows regular and
free from knobs.

Cherry is the most common and productive with us,
and is excellent for pickling. It is named from its size
and shape.

Pear-Shaped is of a pink color, firm flesh and few seeds.
Much used for pickling, and excellent for the table.

Large Yellow is early, and of a rather different flavor.
It is a beautiful and excellent sort for preserves.

Gallagher's Mammoth is the best for home use, a variety
of the large red, having few seeds and very superior in
size and flavor, especially for eating uncooked with pepper,
salt, and vinegar.

The analysis of Large Red tomato, has been made by
J. H. Salisbury. One thousand pounds of the undried
fruit will produce 345, pounds of ash constituted as
follows :—

Carbonic Acid, ; : ; : 3817
Silicic Acid, —. : ; j . .0606
Sulphuric Acid, . 0611
Phosphoric oid and Peroxide of Tron, 8401
Bameéii.- ; : : .0026
Magnesia, : 2 : . 0549
Potash; Z : : : : ENGL.
Soda, : : & : : . 8899
Sodium, . : : 3 2 5 .0952
Chlorine, . : : ; : 2h. Le

Organic Acids, : ; : é 1576

3.4100 lbs,

264 | GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Soda and the phosphates are the most abundant elements,
and may be supplied by common salt and bone-dust if
wanting in the soil, but any soil almost will produce
tomatoes.

Culture—The tomato likes a light loamy soil, moder-
ately rich. Common salt may be applied as'a manure in
small quantities. If the soil is too rich, they will run to
vines, and the fruit ripens late. The culture of the tomato is
very easy in this climate, as abundance of seed will sow
itself if it is once introduced into the garden. But the
finest fruits are not gathered from volunteer plants, but
produced from the seeds of the best specimens maturing
early, and this vegetable is so desirable that it should be
produced as early as possible. A few plants should be
started in the house in boxes, or in a cold bed under glass
in the latter part of February, or early in March, giving
them air, except when there is danger of frost. They can
be sown thinly in rows eight inches apart, and transplanted
into the open ground as soonasfrostsareover. Plantsshould
be kept in reserve, in case of a late frost. The seed may be
sown in the open ground from the middle of March to the first
of May; sow in drills eight or ten inches apart, and when
they come up, thin them to three inches. Protect them
from frost, as they are exceedingly tender. They are the
easiest things in the world to transplant, and can be safely
removed from the time they are an inch high until the
blossoms appear. It is best however to take them up care-
fully with a trowel, that their growth may not be checked.
Plant them three feet apart each way, or more in very
rich ground. When the young plants come into blossom,
support them by sticks as you would peas. The fruit is
thus earlier and better flavored; mulching with leaves or
straw is beneficial. Plants for early use should be set out
in a warm exposure, and as soon as the lower fruit is half

EGG PLANT, OR GUINEA SQUASH. 265

grown, cut off the upper part of the plant above the larger
fruit, that its growth may be stopped, and the fruit below
will be larger, and several days earlier. Ninety per cent.
of the fruit grows within eighteen inches of the ground,
but a large portion of the vines grow above that height.
Tomatoes like the soil about them well hoed, and free
from weeds. Plants grown in the open air, are the more
abundant in bearimg, than those forwarded under glass. In
well-trenched ground, they will continue bearing until frost.

To Save Seed—Select the largest early fruit, mash with
the hand, and wash the seed from the pulp; spread out
upon plates and dry in the shade; when dry, put them in
paper bags.

Use—F¥ew vegetables are prepared in as many different
forms as the tomato. It is pickled when green, and pre-
served when ripe, it is eaten raw or cooked, it enters into
soups and sauces, and is prepared in catsups, marmalades,
and omelets. ‘The French, and the Italians, near Rome
and Naples, raised them by the acre, long before used by
other nations, and it is said, prepared them in an almost in-
finite variety of ways. There are very few preparations into
which it enters, which are not improved by the addition.

Solanum Melongena—EGc-PLANT, OR GUINEA SQUASH.

The egg plant is a tender annual, a native of Africa,
whence its name Guinea Squash. It was introduced into
England in 1597. The varieties of purple egg-plant arc
the only ones used in cooking, the white variety being
raised for ornament. Egg-plant derives its name from the
white variety, which when small bears a close resemblance
to anege. The egg-plant when first introduced, was not
yegarded with much favor for culinary purposes, but is now
rapidly working its way upwards in general esteem. All
the egg-plants grow finely in this climate.

12

266 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Large Prickly-Stemmed Purple is the largest variety,
often growing to a diameter of eight inches, shape slightly
oval, and dark purple color.

Long Purple is perhaps the best kind for family use, as
it is ten days earlier than the other varieties, and though ~
not growing so large, is very prolific in fruit.

The fruit of the purple egg-plant has been analyzed by
J. H. Salisbury. One thousand pounds of the undried
fruit will yield 6;45 pounds of ash, constituted as follows :-

Carbonie Acid, . ; z : : 2889
Silicie Acid, : : : : . Ses
Sulphuric Acid, : .2898
Phosphorie Acid and Peroxide of ab Ate 1.7595
Lime, é .0046
Magnesia, . : é : : .. eee
Potash, . : : . . : 1.2496

Soda, . A . b } ‘ . 29525
Sodium, . : ; : : ‘ .0686
Chlorine, : ‘ ; . » pean
Organic Acids, m : ; ; 1341

6.0399

Over two-thirds of the fruit is made up of potash, soda,
and phosphates. Salt, ashes and bone-dust, or better, super-
phosphate of lime, may be freely applied to the soil for this
crop.

Culture—Egg-plants require a light, loamy, rich soil to
bring their fruit early to perfection. They like the soil
manured with half decayed leaves, well dug in. To have
them early, sow them in a hot-bed, or in a cold frame
under glass, the latter part of February, or early in March.
The rows may be six or eight inches apart, made shallow
and the earth pressed upon the seed. Keep the sash care-
fully closed until the plants are up, and then give air in
warm days. Egg-plants succeed best with a small frame to

EGG PLANT, OR GUINEA SQUASH. 267

themselves, as they like a higher heat than is desirable
for other plants; if this should be a small hot-bed, it suits
them all the better. When the plants are two inches high,
transplant into another frame under glass and put the
plants two inches apart, and they will grow stout and
more hardy for out-door planting. It is a good plan to prick
them out in small pots. They can thus be planted out
with the ball of earth entire. Do not put them out until
settled warm weather, for if the plants get chilled while
young, their growth is so checked that they never fully
recover.

‘Plants can also be raised in the open ground, but must
not be sown until early in April, for these one transplant-
ing will be sufficient. Prepare the final bed for egg-plants
by making trenches three feet apart, burying in them old
cabbage stumps, corn stalks and other vegetable refuse, and
covering them with soil twelve inches deep, in which plant
out the egg-plants two feet apart in the row. Water
abundantly until established. Keep the ground well hoed
and free from weeds, and earth up the plants a little from
time to time. Twelve to twenty plants will be enough.

For Seed.— Allow one of the largest fruits from a prolific
plant to ripen seed. It will keep three or four years.

Use-—Kgg-plant is used by the French in various ways
in soups and stews, but generally cut in thin slices, and fried
in batter. They are not commonly liked at first, but after
a few trials become very agreeable to most tastes, and are
esteemed a delicacy. They are fit for use when some two
or three inches in diameter, and continue until the seeds
begin to change color. They are not unwholesome, but
eannot be very nourishing, as they contain a very large
proportion of water.

To Fry.—Cut the egg-plant in slices a quarter of an
inch thick. ‘T’o remove the acrid taste, pile the slices on

268 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

a plate, with alternate layers of salt; raise one side of the
plate, that the juice may run off. In half an hour wash them
well in fresh water, and fry them quite brown in batter.

Solanwm Tuberosum—PoOTATO.

The Irish potato is a perennial plant, cultivated for its
tuberous roots. It is reported to have been brought into
England from Virginia, by Raleigh in 1854, but as he never
visited Virginia, he probably obtained it from some other
portion of this continent. Though called the Irish potato
it is really a native of the mountain parts of South Amer-
ica, whence roots have recently been obtained differing
very little from the cultivated varieties. Notwithstanding
its excellence and complete adaptation to the English cli-
mate, it appears to have come slowly into use. Raleigh
planted it on his Irish estate near Cork, but it is only
within about a hundred years that its culture has been
general even in Ireland. In 1780, very few individuals
in this country raised as large a crop as five bushels. Of
the numerous varieties at this time, the best perhaps for
garden culture are :—

Fox Seedling —A eran sized, round, white potato, of
fine flavor when it first matures, but does not keep for win-
ter. Liable to the rot.

Mercer.—Long, kidney shaped, flattish, full of eyes, and
often knobbed, spotted with pink at the small end. It is
early and productive, but liable to the rot.

Mammoth Nutmeg—Is a new variety, highly recom-
mended by Mapes as productive, and not liable to decay.
It produces seed, showing that it still possesses more con-
stitutional vigor than most other varieties.

Many other varieties have great celebrity in different
sections of the country, among which are Early Kidneys,
Pink Eyes, Foxite, Blue Jackets, &c. But the fact is, al!

ANALYSIS OF POTATO. 969

are constitutionally liable to the rot. Besides for this cli-
mate we need an Irish potato that will continue in growth
nearly all the season, as they ripen too early with us to be
easily kept in their dry mealy state. Any one who would
obtain the potato balls from the wild plant in its native
habitation, and originate therefrom new varieties adapted
to the climate of this section of the Union, would deserve
the thanks of the entire South. We buy northern tubers
which are infested with disease, and after our crop is ma-
tured, frequently one-half decays. The potato disease is
a very mysterious malady, and the only ground of hope
of ever seeing it eradicated or even checked is by resorting
to the wild plant, and raising from it a new and vigorous
stock. ‘This may not be successful, but it is really worthy
of trial, and if not brought about by private enterprise,
should be an object of public attention.*

The analysis of the ash of Axbridge kidney potatoes,
by Herapath, is given below :—

Carbonic Acid, . : : ; 21.40
Sulphuric Acid, ‘ ‘ pags Hy:

Phosphoric Acid, : : : Ok
Potassa, ‘ 3 3 OCT
Soda, : : 4 trace
Chloride of Saunas E : . trace
Carbonate of Lime, ; ‘ é 3.02

. « Magnesia, . ‘ sesbeg PEAS
Sulphate of Lime, é ; : Be
Phosphate of Lime, : ; 3.83

66 Magnesia, ; oe

Basic Phosphate of Sesquioxide of Iron, .06
Silica. ‘ : ‘ ‘ sf i 1

99.98

* This has been undertaken by Mr. C. E. Goodrich, of Utica, New
York, by whom tubers and seeds raised directly from the wild plant,
and in some degree free from the tendency to disease, are offered for
sale.

270 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Potash and phosphate of magnesia are the most import-
ant inorganic elements of the plant. Wood ashes will
furnish most of the cunstituents required from the soil.

Culture—The Irish potato likes a cool moist climate,
and a cool moist soil like that of Ireland. The soil should
be well enriched with vegetable and not with animal
manure. ‘The best potatoes in this country are grown in
the cool and hilly sections of the north, and the best there
are grown by simply turning nicely over a meadow sward ;
upon this the rows are laid off shallow, and the clover
sods are often so tough with matted roots when planting
(having been newly turned over), that earth is with diffi-
culty obtained to cover the potatoes. Soon decomposition
commences, a gentle heat is given out, and by the time
the potatoes are ready for the first working they can be
ploughed with ease. At the second working, when the
plants are laid by, the soil is mellow as an ash heap,
the young plant the mean while being supplied with moist-
ure, and the very food required to perfect its tubers, and
render them farinaceous and nutritive. At the south, in
our gardens we cannot obtain such a soil, but we ean very
much improve the yield, and especially the quality of our
Irish potatoes by imitating it as near as possible. Wecan
dig into the soil vegetable matter to decompose, such as
leaves, garden refuse of all kinds, and pine straw. Even
tan bark is not a bad application to the potato crop, and
the potato and strawberry are the only plants to which I
would apply it. I applied it to a small plat at the rate of
fifty two-horse loads to the acre, with plenty of leached
ashes. The potato crop was excellent both in quantity
and quality, and I think the tan materially promoted its
growth. The soil has not a trace of undecomposed tan-
bark in it; but from a poor red clay is nowa light dark
garden mould. A great reason for applying vegetable

CULTURE OF POTATO. rafal

manure to this plant is the superior quality of the tubers
produced. Liebig first remarked that ammoniacal manures
injure the quality of the potato, though they increase the
size and quantity. If manured with strong animal manure
the tubers are moist and waxy, while if grown upon a soil
manured with ashes, lime, and an abundant supply of car-
bonaceous manures, such as decaying vegetable matter,
the produce is far more starchy and nutritive. This is
reasonable, for starch and the woody fibre of decompos-
ing vegetable matter are very similar in chemical composi-_
tion. Apply strong dung, if you like waxy potatoes. I
believe some really prefer them. Indeed anexcellent old
lady with whom I boarded was one. We had been using
fer some weeks from her garden some of the most waxy
and indifferent potatoes I ever tasted, the product of a soil
altogether too rich in ammoniacal matter for this plant.
One day at the dinner table, a dish of dry white farina-
ceous tubers made their appearance, whose jackets bursting
with mealiness would have made an Irishman’s eyes
water. It was achange, and we were quietly enjoying it,
when our good hostess broke the silence with the remark :
«These potatoes are not so good to-day as we have been
having from our own garden ; somehow they don’t seem to
be as juicy /’—the last characteristic to be thought of in
a good potato.

Peabody’s mode of raising Irish potatoes in this climate,
cannot be improved. ‘As soon after Christmas as possi-
ble, plow or spade up the piece of ground designed for
the potato patch, and lay it off in furrows two feet wide,
and eight or ten inches deep; now fill the furrow with
decomposed straw or leaves (wheat or pine straw will an-
swer), cut the potatoes once in two, and place them six
inches apart cut side downwards upon the straw; now

ey) GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

level the top of the ridge, covering seed, straw and all
with earth; then cart on straw scattering it evenly
eighteen inches deep; two feet will be better. The winter
rains will beat down the straw compactly; decomposition
commencing in the straw in the furrow, and in that next
the ground, the potato sprouts force their way up
through the straw, and should an untimely frost nip the
tops, the tubers are not affected by it as when in the
ground, the tops will push up through the straw, and
eventually cover the whole patch with their dark green
foliage. The evenness of temperature with the moisture
of the decomposing straw, will keep the potatoes always
mealy. In the dryest season the yield will be greater
than when planted in the ordinary way, and when once
planted, it is an end of culture until they are taken out
for the table. The same piece of ground will improve in
productiveness for years as the straw decomposes. Many
have failed in this mode of culture from the fact that they
have not applied half straw enough.”

But good as the above mode undoubtedly is, many of
us cannot get the straw required for this manner of culture,
while we are not disposed to do without Irish potatoes. All
we can dois to incorporate with the soil abundance of vegeta-
! le matter of any kind we can get, and plant the early crop in
January, and the main crop the last of February, laying off
the ground in deep furrows or trenches two and a quarter
feet apart ; in these depositing a good sprinkling of lime, char-
coal, leached ashes, and bone-dust, or such of these as can
be obtained. On this the cut potatoes are to be laid at
eight inches apart, as above. If on each set a teaspoonful
of gypsum or plaster of Paris be sprinkled, the yield will
be very much increased. The seed is better, if cut a few
days before planting and spread out to dry. Large pota

CULTURE OF POTATO. 278

toes will make three or four sets. Fill up the furrow with
earth, and if this be mixed with tan-bark, the potatoes will
like it all the better.

When the young vines appear, if there is danger of frost,
they can be protected by covering them with earth. This
should not be done unless needed, and the earth should be
carefully drawn back after the danger is over. It is better
to plant the main crop sufficiently late to avoid all danger
of frost. As soon as the shoots appear, give the young
plants frequent and deep hoeings, keeping the soil deep
and mellow, and drawing a little earth up to the stem ina
broad, flat hill. Cease working them when the blossom-
buds appear. When the tops decay, and the plants are
ripe, dig them, and spread in a cool, dry place. If they
sprout, the shoots should be rubbed off, as they injure the
flavor of the potato. A change of seed once in three or
four years is an advantage, but there is no use in buying
fresh seed every year. It is believed that potatoes culti-
vated and manured as directed above are much less sub-
ject to the potato-rot, the ravages of which have recently
almost depopulated Ireland. Schleiden attributes the rot
to the long continued use of nitrogenous manures. Still
the great hope of a permanent escape from this disease is
to go back for our seed once more to the healthy wild
stock. To keep them eatable, rub off the sprouts as fast
as they appear. If allowed to grow they become waxy.

Use—The tubers of the Irish potato, consisting chiefly
ef starch, and having no peculiarity of taste, approach
nearer in their nature to the flour of grain than any other
root. Hence it is almost universally liked, and ean be
continually used by the same individual, without becom-
ing unpalatable. Potatoes are boiled, baked, roasted, or
fried. When long kept, the best ones are selected, boiled,

2*

274 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

and mashed, before going to the table. Starch can be
manufactured from potatoes; also ardent spirits.

To Boil.—A very common way, described by Peabody,
is to “put them into cold water, boil them a couple of
hours or so, peel them, and grease them over with rancid
butter, and place them cold upon the table. This is the
acme of the gastronomic art with some.” <A very good
way is the following :—-Wash the potatoes, and cut off the
ends; put them into boiling water, and boil briskly from
twenty minutes to half an hour; drain off the water, and
they are ready for the table. The skins may be removed
before bringing to the table; but this is not so good a plan. .
If the potatoes remain, after cooking, without being brought
to the table, they should be kept warm and dry in the pot,
uncovered, near the fire

Spinacea Oleracea——SPINACH.

Spinach is a hardy annual, native of Spain and Persia;
cultivated in English gardens since 1568, and probably
long before. Some refer its origin to Western Asia. The
leaves are large, stems hollow, and the male and female
flowers produced on different plants. Its name, spznacea,
is derived from the Latin, spina, a thorn, on account of the
prickly seed of one variety. There are two sorts in gen-
eral cultivation, viz. :—

The Prickly is much raised in cold climates; being
_ hardier, and more able to endure the severity of the win-
ter. It has triangular leaves, and is much inferior to the

Round-Leaved—Leaves more round, and still more full
and fleshy; will stand our winters without protection,
and is the better variety for this climate.

Flanders spinach has prickly seeds, and is a good
variety, though little known here.

ANALYSIS OF SPINACH. O15

Spinacs has been analyzed by Richardson, with the
following result -—

Potassa, 4 : i i 4 9.69

Soda, : : a 9 ; 34.96
Lime, . . : : 13.11
Magnesia, ; Sioa 5.29
Sulphuric ed. : : : : 9.30
Silicie Acid, 5 : : : 3.16
Phosphoric Acid, . : ; , 7.89
Phosphate of Iron, . é s 8.67

Chloride of Sodium, ‘ , k 7.93

100.00

The lime and salt mixture with superphosphate of lime
will supply most of the inorganic elements required by
spinach.

Culture—¥or the winter crop, a light dry, but fertile
soil is preferable ; while for spring sowings, to have them
long in use, a rich moist loam is desirable. Give them
an open situation. ‘The earth should be well pulverized
before sowing, as fine tilth greatly promotes. vigorous
growth. Spinach is propagated from seed so easily, and
is so valuable for winter greens, that no garden should
be without it. The tirst crop should be sown early in
October, in drills an inch deep, and a foot apart, scat-
tering the seed thinly. Sow the seed, if possible, in
showery weather, or if dry, water it, for if moisture be
wanting during the early stages of vegetation, not half the
seed will come up. Thin them by degrees, separating
them at first only an inch or two as the plants grow fit for
use. Thinning should commence when they attain four
leaves an inch or so in breadth. The plants must finally
stand for the prickly spinach, five inches, and the round
leaf, eight inches in the drill. Keep the rows frequently
hoed and free from weeds, Hoe in dry weather. Spinach

276 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

kept clean and thinned to the proper distance, is not so
liable to die out in winter. Frequent hoeing greatly pro-
motes health and growth. This sowing will be fit to
gather in November, and last until spring. Another sow-
ing should be made in January and February, to keep up
a succession, until other vegetables come on abundantly.
Regular gathering greatly promotes the health of the
plants. The outer leaves only should be used, leaving the
centre uninjured to supply successive crops. At the end
of the winter, the soil between the rows of the winter
standing crop should be gently stirred to assist their pro-
duction in early spring. For spinach and all other plants
cultivated for their leaves, the soil cannot be too rich.

For Seed—Some of the latest plants of the standing
crop should be allowed to run up to seed; let these plants
be eight or ten inches apart. Spinach is dicecious, and the
plants left that do not bear seed must not be pulled up, as
they are neeced to fertilize the others until the seed is set.
When ripe, pull the plants, dry thoroughly on a cloth,
and beat out and store the seed in paper bags. Spinach
seed will keep three years.

Use-—Spinach and German Greens are the best plants
to raise for a supply of winter and early spring greens.
No frost will hurt them, and one who has tried them will
hardly be induced to fall back upon mustard and turnip
tops. It is really one of the most valuable plants in the
earden. Spinach eaten freely is laxative and cooling; it is
not very nutritive, but very wholesome. It is so innocent
that it is permitted to be eaten in diseases where most
vegetables are proscribed. ‘The leaves are very tender
and succulent, and of a most beautiful green when boiled.
The juice is often used for coloring various culinary =
parations.

To Botl.—Cut off all the roots, wash out all insects and

NEW ZEALAND SPINACH. 217

grit, and put in boiling water with a teaspoonful of salt ;
bdil ten or fifteen minutes. When done, drain through a
colander, press out the moisture, and serve with butter
and a little salt.

Tetragona Expansa—NeEw ZEALAND SPINACH.

An annual plant brought by Sir Joseph Banks, from
New Zealand, in 1772, with thick, succulent, pale green
procumbent leaves, deltoid in shape, and with small green
inconspicuous flowers. It grows four or five feet high.
The common Spinach fails entirely in summer, but this
variety, if well watered, grows freely and produces
leaves of the greatest succulency in hot weather. White
Beet or Swiss Chard, however, is a vegetable more easily
cultivated and preferable in every way for general culti-
vation in our climate.

Culture-—New Zealand Spinach may be sowed early in
April. The best soil is a deep, moist loam, deeply dug
and enriched by a liberal supply of good manure. Make
the drills three feet apart, and scatter the seed about six
inches apart in the drill, and cover them an inch deep.
Thin out the plants, when well established, to twenty
inches apart. ‘hose taken up after filling any vacancies in
the drill may be reset in another bed. Take them up with
the trowel and balls of earth, so as not to check their growth.
Water until the plants are established, and liberally in dry
weather all summer. Keep the ground thoroughly tilled
and free from weeds, that the plants may make a luxuri-
ant growth. In five or six weeks the young leaves may
begin to be picked off. Preserve the leading shoot, and the
branches will continue long in bearing, as in autumn they
survive a pretty heavy frost. Twenty plants are enough.

Seed may be gathered as it ripens, dried carefully in
the shade and put up in pape) bags.

278 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Use.—It is prepared for the table like common spinach.
It has somewhat the spinach flavor ; but there is a softness
and mildness about it, which make it preferred by many.
The seeds in a green state, make an excellent pickle.

Thymus Vulgaris——THYME

Common, or garden thyme, is a low, evergreen undershrub,
a native of Spain, Italy, and Greece, cultivated in English
gardens since 1548, and probably earlier. Its name, Thy-
mus, comes from the Greek word for courage; as it was
thought to renew the strength and spirits. It has a pleas-
ant aromatic smell, and a warm pungent taste.

Lemor Thyme ( Thymus Citriodorus ) is also a low trailing
evergreen shrub, seldom rising above four or six inches
high. It has a strong smell of lemons, which gives it its
common name.

Culture-—Thyme is raised by seed, cuttings and divid-
ing the roots. A poor, light, dry soil, is suitable. The
root slips may be set out in rows six inches apart each
way. The seeds are very small, and should be sown in
moist weather, and the soil for their reception made very
fine. Sow the last of February or early in March, and
rake the seed in lightly with the back of the rake. Press
the surface gently with a board or the back of a spade.
Make the drills six inches apart and very shallow. Water
lightly in hot dry weather, both before and after the
plants are up. Let them remain in the drills, or trans-
plant when two or three inches high. Thin the plants to
six inches apart, keep free from weeds while the plants
are small.

Thyme is often used asan edging. A very small plat is
enough for any family.

for Seed.—It bears seed abur-dantly, if permitted. The

SALSIFY OR VEGETABLE OYSTER, 279

spikes should be gathered as it ripens, before it is washed
out by the rain. Dry upon a cloth in the shade.

Use—The young leaves and tops are used in soups,
stuffings and sauces. They can be dried and preserved
like other herbs; but in this climate it is unnecessary, as
it is evergreen. Thyme tea is a cure for the headache,
and an excellent tonic. The essential oil contains
camphor.

Tragopogen Porrifolius—-SALSIFY OR VEGETABLE
OYSTER.

Salsify is a hardy, tap-rooted biennial, a native of Eng-
land and various other parts of Europe, with long taper-
ing root of a fleshy white substance, the herbage smooth
glaucous, and the flower-stem three or four feet high, the
flower of a dull purple color and syngenesious.

Salsify likes a light, mellow soil, dug very deeply, as
for carrots and other tap-rooted plants. Sow in Febru-
ary or March (earlier if you choose), in drills an inch deep,
and a foot apart. Sow rather thickly. An ounce of seed
will sow a square rod. Scarlet radish may also be sown
thinly in the same drills. When an inch high, thin the
plants, and continue by degrees until the plants are six
inches apart. If the soil is deep and moist, they will
grow all summer and not run up to seed. Watering in
dry weather, especially with guano water, will greatly
invigorate the plants. Cultivate the soil, and keep it free
from weeds, as you would for beets and carrots. The
roots will be fit for use in August, and may remain in the
ground all winter, to be pulled as wanted.

For Seed.—Leave, or transplant some of the best plants
in spring, which will produce seed abundantly. Gather
and dry in the heads, where they may be kept until
wanted.

280 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Use——The stalks of old plants are sometimes cut in the
spring, as a substitute for asparagus. ‘The roots are boiled
or stewed like carrots, and have a mild, sweet flavor, be-

ing wholesome, palatable and tolerably nutritive. They
are said to be excellent for consumptive patients; but are
mostly cooked to imitate oysters, to which the flavor has
some resemblance.

Lo Cook.—Scrape the roots lightly and soak in water
one hour. Boil untiltender. Take out, drain, and make a
batter of milk and eggs beaten up with a little flour; grate
the roots fine, add an egg well beaten and press them into
small, flat balls the size of oysters, dip them in the batter
and roll in grated cracker or crumbs of bread, and fry in
hot lard until of a light brown color, and they are ready
for the table.

Tropaolum Majws—NastTuRtTIuM, or [npIAN CREss.

The nasturtium is here a hardy annual, a native of Peru,
where it is a true perennial. It was introduced into
England in 1681. The stalks are long and trailing, leaves
have their petioles fixed at the centre. Flowers are hel-
met-shaped, of a rich, brilliant orange, and continue, from
their first appearance, all summer; and if not so common,
would be thought very beautiful. Tropawolwm Minor, the
Indian cress, is less productive.

Cultwre—Nasturtiums flourish in a moist soil, but do
best in a good, fresh loam. If the soil is too rich, the
plants are luxuriant, but do not bear so abundantly, and
the berries are of inferior flavor. Give them an open sit-
uation. Sow the seed early in March, three or four inches
apart, in drills an inch deep, covering the seed three-
fourths of an inch. The seed must be of the preceding
year’s growth. They may be sown by the side of a fence
or trellis. If more than one row is sown, they should be at

ENGLISH BROAD BEAN. 281

least four feet apart. Thin the plants, when they are well
up, to a foot in the drill. Hoe the ground well, and keep
down the weeds. If sown in the open ground, support
them as you would peas with lattice or brush. Give the
plants a little assistance in fastening themselves to the
trellis. Water in dry weather. Gather the fruit when
full grown, while still fresh and green.

For Seed.—Let some of the berries mature, gather them
as they ripen, spread them to dry and harden, and store in
paper bags.

Use-—The flowers and young leaves are used in salads,
and have a warm taste like water cress. The flowers are
used with those of borage in garnishing dishes. ‘The ber-
ries, gathered green and pickled, form an excellent substi-
tute for capers.

Vicaa Faba—ENGLIsH Broap BEAN.

The English Broad Bean is an annual, from two to four
feet high, with white, fragrant papilionaceous flowers,
with a black spot in the middle of the wings; seed pods
thick, long, woolly within, enclosing large, ovate, flat
seeds, for the sake of which it is much cultivated in Eu-
rope. It isa native of Egypt, and has been cultivated
from time immemorial.

Mazagan is sweet and agreeable in flavor, and pro-
duces well if planted early. Far the most productive
variety with me.

Long Pod—Stalks rise about three feet high, bears
well; the pods are long, narrow, and well filled with
seeds.

Culture—This is. not a very important crop in this cli-
mate, as the other beans are far better and more easily cul-
tivated. To give variety to early garden products, a few
may be planted in drills eighteen inches apart, and two

%

282 1 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

inches in the row, in October, November, or December.
They like a dry soil, moderately rich, and a sheltered sit-
uation. to promote their growth during the winter. The
frost will not injure them. When two inches high, hoe
between and draw the earth about the stems of the plants.
Continue this during their growth. When the plants come
into bloom, take off two or three inches of the tops of the
stems, which will increase the crop and hasten its maturity.
The crop should be gathered before they are full grown,
while they are still tender and delicate.

To Save Seed—Allow a portion of the crop to remain
until ripe. Thresh for use.

Use-—The English use these beans while young and
tender, as we do green peas. They must be cooked very
young, and in the same manner; or may be boiled with
bacon.

Tea Mays—Inv1an Corn.

Indian Corn is a native plant, found distributed in all
the milder climates of America at its discovery. It is of
more universal culture than any other plant on this conti-
nent, and can be made to produce more food per acre than
any other grain.

The best garden varieties are the

Extra Early—with short ears, small cob, and large
grains, which are of excellent flavor. It can be grown fit
for the table in six weeks from the time of planting.

Eight-rowed Sugar—LEars of larger size, grow two or
more on a stalk, remain in a milky state, and fit for the
table a long time; grains, when dry, are small and shriv-
elled; of very sweet and excellent flavor when boiled.

Old Colony Sweet—A new variety, of the highest repu-
tation, I have not yet cultivated.

Stowell’s Evergreen Sweet Corn—A twelve-rowed variety

*

ANALYSIS OF INDIAN CORN, 283

with earslargerthan the Eight-rowed. The grains resemble
the Sugar Corn, but arethinner when dry. It produces well,
and is quite as good. It is also said, if the husks are
allowed to remain on the ears, secured by a string at the
smaller end, and kept in a cool, dry place, the grains will
continue milky, and fit for use for several months after
being picked. It is doubtful whether they could be thus
kept in our climate; but, at all events, itis a very excel-
lent table corn, and keeps green longer than any other
variety.

The three latter varieties are more injured by the corn-
worm, as our planters call the insect that eats into the end
of the ear, than the common corn of the country. The
insect chooses the high-flavored varieties in preference.
He should be crushed wherever found. _

Spengel found in 100.000 parts of maize grain, 1312
parts of inorganic matter, and in 100.000 parts of maize
stalk, 3985 parts of inorganic matter, consisting of

GRAIN, STRAW.
Potash. ..%% : ey 4 (0 Neel 2 a
Soda, : : - 250 : : 4
Lime, . : E ERASE Bs ty Coa ‘ - 652
Magnesia. ' : 128 : : 236
Alumina, . ; Ap eo 67 Pe F ‘ 6
Oxideof Iron, . gery MPEAGOy gl P 4
Oxideof Manganese, . — . : sea)

Silica, ‘ : ; 434 é “22708
Sulphuric acid, . Or 3 : . 106
Phosphoric acid, : 224 : : 54
Chlorine, . 2 : 8 ic : 3 6

Maize likes a soil abounding in soluble silica. Gypsum
and ashes, experience has proved,the best special manures,
Sweet corn has much less starch than the other varieties -

284 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

but much more sugar and extract. It has also a greater
portion of dextrine and gum.

Cultwre—tIn the Northern States, a dry soil and a hot
season are required to produce large crops of corn. Here
we raise far better crops in moist seasons, and on moist
bottom lands. Rich, deep loam affords the plant plenty
of moisture and nourishment, which the corn likes. The
garden corn will bear very thick planting. Get your seed
from the north at least every two years, if you would
have early crops, as the earliest sorts gradually grow later
here. Plant as soon as the season gets mild, about the
first of March in this climate, or when the peach is well in
bloom.

Let the ground be deeply ploughed or spaded; then lay
off in hills three feet apart each way. If the ground is
not rich, place a shovelful of decayed manure to each
hill. Fresh dung can be immediately applied to corn, if
spread before ploughing, and well turned in. Plant five
grains to a hill, and cover two inches deep. Whenthey are
up, thin out to three. Hoe deeply, and often. In fact, corn
cannot be hoed too much for its good while young. Draw
the earth cach time a little over the stalk. Plant on any
spot that happens to be vacant, every three weeks, until
the first of August here, and a month later in the low
country, if the early varieties are used. Corn is a gross
feeder, and cannot get too much manure. It should be
soaked in a solution of saltpetre twelve hours before plant-
ing. A sprinkling of guano about the hill is beneficial, if
it does not touch the seed. Corn is much improved by
giving the plants, at their first hoeing, a teaspoonful of
gypsum to each hill, or a pint of ashes, or as much of the
charcoal poudrette. Chickens, birds, and squirrels can be
prevented from pulling up the corn, by soaking it twelve
hours before planting in water, then stirring briskly the

INDIAN CORN. 285

seed in a vessel containing a little tar mixed with warm
water; thus giving each grain a thin coat. After which,
for convenient handling, it is to be rolled in as much ashes,
‘gypsum, or lime, as it will take up. One-half bushel of
corn requires a pint of tar and a gallon of warm water,
with as much ashes as will stick to the grain. It is effect-
ual against birds, squirrels, &c.; while the seed vegetates
freely, if previously soaked.

For Seed—Select the best ears from stalks that bear
more than one.

Use.—Indian Corn is prepared in a greater variety of
ways for the table than any other grain. In fact, the
modes of preparation alone would almost fill a volume.
That from the garden is mostly boiled green. Green corn
can be very easily preserved for winter use, by cutting off
the kernels after boiling, and drying in a shaded, airy
place. The sweet corn only should be used for this pur-
pose.

MEDICINAL HERBS.

A FEW roots of the most useful of these should be found
in every garden. The following is a description of those
most used in families, including their medical qualities,
and ample directions for their cultivation. The medicinal
properties of many of these depend upon their aromatic
qualities, and they are never so fragrant and full of vir-
tue when grown upon ground highly manured. Cham-
omile, lavender, rosemary, rue, wormwood, and many
others, lose much of their strength when forced into rank
growth. Common garden soil, without manuring, is quite
good enough. Whenever the plants begin to decline, take
away the old surface soil, and apply fresh, or set out new
plants in fresh ground.

Medicinal, pot, or sweet herbs, as a general rule, should
be gathered when in dloom, and dried carefully and thor-
oughly in the shade. When thoroughly dry, press them
closely into paper bags, or powder them finely; sift, and
keep in closely-stopped bottles.

ANETHUM.
Anethum Graveolens—DILu.

An annual, a native of Southern Europe, and also of
the Cape of Good Hope. Cultivated for its seeds, which
have an aromatic odor, and a warm, pungent, and some-
what bitter taste. Medicinally, they are good for flatu-
lence and colic in infants.» The leaves are sometimes
used for culinary purposes, and the seeds are occasionally

added to pickled cucumbers to heighten the flavor.
(286)

FENNEL. 287

Sow the seeds either early in the spring, or soon after
they are ripe, in a light soil. Thin, if crowded, and keep
clean.

Anethum Faniculum—FENNEL.

Fennel is a hardy, aromatic, perennial plant from the
South of Europe, growing wild on the banks of rivers,
and perhaps quite as properly belongs to the culinary as
the medicinal department of the garden. It has a finely
divided leaf, and tall umbel-bearing stems, crowned with
small yellow flowers.

Culture—Fennel will grow in almost any soil. It is
propagated by offsets, parting the roots, or by seed; all
which modes may be successfully practised at any time
between October and April.

The best season, however, for sowing the seed is when
it ripens in the fall. If planted, set them one foot apart.
If sown, in drills twelve inches asunder. The seed may
be sown moderately thick, about half an inch deep, and
the earth pressed upon them. When the young plants
are four or five inches high, thin them out to ten or twelve
inches. Those taken up may be planted out to enlarge
the bed. Water them freely, if the weather is dry. Keep
the plants free from weeds, which is all the cultivation
required. If the seed is not desired, the stems should be
cut down as often as they run up; for, if allowed to ripen
seed, the old plants will last but few years. But this is of
little consequence, as plenty of self-sown seedlings will be
ready to take their place. Eight or ten roots are enough
for any family. It should be kept within proper limits, as
it is much inclined to spread.

Use-—Fennel is a good deal used, in continental Europe,
in soups, fish-sauces, garnishes, and salads. It is also con-
siderably used in England, but less with us. The Italians

288 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

blanch and eat the stalks like celery. A little fennel seed
sometimes gives an agreeable variety in flavoring apple-
sauce and pies. But it is most used medicinally. The
seeds are carminative and stimulant, and in an infusion are
excellent for the flatulent colic of infants.

Angelica Archangelica—ANGELICA.

A native of many parts of Northern Europe. It is a
biennial plant, rising from three to five feet high. The
whole plant is powerfully aromatic. Its roots have a
fragrant, agreeable odor, and at first a sweetish taste
which soon turns acrid in the mouth. Its medical proper-
ties are aromatic, stimulant and gently tonic.

Its stalks were formerly blanched and eaten like celery,
but it isnow mostly cultivated to make a sweetmeat from
them when young and tender. They are also candied by
the confectioners.

Sow the seed one foot apart in August or September,
and when they get about four inches high, the next spring,
set them in rows two feet apart. Though the plant is
only a biennial, yet by cutting down the seed-stalk when-
ever it rises, the same plant may be preserved several
seasons. Angelica likes a moist, cool soil.

Anthemis nobilis—CHAMOMILE.

A perennial, a native of England, cultivated for its
flowers, which have a bitter aromatic taste, and are in
small doses a useful tonic, but given largely, act as an
emetic. An infusion of them improves digestion and gives
tone to the disordered stomach. The flowers are some-
times chewed as a substitute for tobacco. 7

It is best propagated by dividing the roots in spring,
Keep the ground free from weeds.

WORMW0OD—SOUTHERNWOOD. 289

Gather the flowers when just in full bloom and dry in
the shade.
ARTEMISIA.
Artemsia Absinthium—W ORMWOOD.

A native of Europe, perennial, cultivated much in gar-
dens. Its odor is strong and fragrant, and its taste aroma-
tic but intensely bitter. It is cultivated for the tops or
extremities of the branches. Its properties are tonic,
diuretic, and it is a vermifuge. The dried'leaves steeped
in vinegar are a very useful application to fresh bruises,
for which it is well worth cultivating. It is also usefully
employed in antiseptic fomentations.

Wormwood likes a calcareous soil, and may be raised
either by cuttings, seeds, or dividing the roots. COultiva-
ted same as hyssop; roots being eighteen inches apart.
A dry, poor soil is necessary to bring out the peculiar
virtues of this plant.

Artemisia Abrotanum—SouTHERNWOOD.

Is very nearly allied to the above, both being species
of the same genus, and similaras to medical properties. Like
wormwood, it has a grateful odor, but it is not much used
in medicine from its nauseous taste. It is a stimulant,
vermifuge, and emmenagogue.

For culture, see “ Hyssop.”

Borago Officinalis—BORAGE.

An annual European plant. The tender tops, young
leaves, and flowers, are sometimes used as a salad by the
French, and boiled by the Italians.

- Medicinally it was formerly thought endowed with
very great virtues, and numbered among the four cordial
flowers.

Old Girard says, “ Those of our time do use the flowers

2
2)

290 GARDENING FOR fHE SOUTH.

in salads, and to exhilarate and to make the mind glad,
There be many things made of them used for.the comfort
of the heart, to drive away sorrow and increase the joy
of the minde.” The plant is not much used now except
as an ingredient in the drink called “a cool tankard,” made
of wine, water, lemon-juice, and sugar, to which afew of
the tender leaves seem to give additional coolness.

Sow early in March or last of February, broadcast, and
a little thinning and weeding is all the attention that will
be needed.

Carum Carui—CARAWAY.

A native of England and various other countries of
Europe. It is a biennial plant, well known to the ancients.
Pliny mentions it. Caraway is cultivated for its seeds,
which are useful in confectionery ; as in cakes, comfits,
&c., and the leaves are sometimes used in soups. The
roots are said to excel those of the parsnip, being formerly
cooked and used in the same manner. Medicinally the
seeds are used in an infusion for flatulence. Sow in
March or in the autumn, and thin so as to give each plant
a foot of room. Keep free from weeds. The autumn
sowing will give seed the next season.

Centaurea Benedicta—BLESSED THISTLE.

An annual from Spain, and the Levant. An infusion
of the leaves is used as a stomachic, to produce an appe-
tite : if strong, it promotes perspiration.

Sow the seed in autumn, in light earth. Thin, and
keep free from weeds. Gather the herb in flower and dry
with great care, as it is very apt to mould.

This plant had formerly a great reputation, but it is
now little used. ‘The taste is very bitter and the smell
disagreeable. |

THOROUGHWORT—LIQUORICE. 291

Coriandrum Sativum—CoriANDER.

An annual from the Hast; also grows naturally in the
South of Europe. Some like its tender leaves for soups
and salads, but it is raised mostly for its seeds which have
a pleasant aromatic taste, though the smell is disagreeable.
Coriander seed is carminative and stomachic. It is often
used to disguise the taste of medicines, but it is principally
employed in confectionery.

Sow the seed in March, where they are to remain, in
drills ten inches apart. Do this in dry weather and
thin the plants to four inches, and keep free from weeds.

Eupatorium Perfoliatum—THOROUGHWORT, OR BONESET.

A native of most of the United States, which, if not
found growing wild in the vicinity, should be cultivated,
as itis one of the best herbs in family practice. It has a
faint odor, an intensely bitter taste, and is slightly astrin-
gent. Its medicinal virtues are diaphoretic, tonic, and in
larger doses, emetic and aperient. It is principally used
as a diaphoretic in colds, catarrhs, and rheumatism, in
intermittent, remittent, and inflammatory diseases, or given
cold as a tonic in dyspepsia. A strong infusion given
warm in bed is almost a sovereign remedy for a cold. To
a pint of boiling water, add one ounce of the leaves and
flowers, and take it hot at two or three doses.

Boneset is a perennial, and can be raised by transplant-
ing the roots or sowing the seed.

Glycirrhiza Glabra—LiQuoRIce.
A hardy perennial from Southern Europe, the saccha-
rine juice of the root of which is useful in catarrhs, fevers,
&ce. Its taste is sweet and mucilaginous, and it is much

a

292 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

used as a demulcent, either alone or combined with other
substances, for lung diseases.

A few roots of this plant when once started, will be of
very little trouble in the garden. The plantis propa-
gated by cuttings of the roots. Dig the soil at least two
feet deep. Take the horizontal roots of established plants,
five or six inches long. Every shoot planted should have
at least two eyes ; make the rows three feet apart, and the
plant twelve to fifteen inches in the rows, and cover the
roots well with mould. Onions, lettuce or radishes, may
be grown between the rows the first year; afterwards
keep the soil free from weeds, dress the surface with ma-
nure every autumn, and at the end of the‘third year take
up the crop as soon as the leaves are fully decayed, and
dry the roots thoroughly. In shallow or poor ground it
will not succeed.

Hyssopus Officonalis—Hyssop.

Hyssop is a hardy evergreen undershrub from the
South of Europe, of which the leaves and flower-stalks
are the parts used medicinally. It has an aromatic odor,
and a warm pungent taste. Itis stimulant and expecto-
rant, and employed in humoral asthma and chronic catarrh.

Hyssop is propagated by slips or dividing the roots in
the spring, or by sowing the seed in March. Transplant the
young plants in July to where they are to remain, or you
may thin the young plants to six inches apart, and let
them remain in the seed-bed until autumn before trans-
planting. It likes a dry sandy soil, and about eighteen
inches space should be given to each plant.

Inula Helentum—ELECAMPANE.

A native of England and Japan. It is a perennial
plant, and loves a moist soil. It is cultivated for its thick,

LAVENDER—PEPPERMINT. 293

fleshy, carrot-like root, which is useful as an aromatic tonic
and expectorant. It is very beneficial in chronic coughs
and catarrhs, and also in dyspepsia. An infusion of the
root is excellent for a common cold. Cut up fine and fed
with their corn, the root is a great relief to the distemper
in horses.

It is propagated by offsets, or by parting the roots in
autumn.

Lavendula Spica—LaveENvDeER.

A hardy undershrub, a native of the South of Europe.
lt is cultivated for its fragrant spikes of flowers, which are
used for the distillation of Lavender-water. Being dried
and put up in paper bags, they are also used to perfume
linen. Both flowers and leaves are very aromatic. It has
an agreeable pungent bitterness to the taste, and its medi-
eal properties are stimulant, cordial, and stomachic, and
the essential oil mixed with proof spirits is very useful in
eases of fainting and paralysis, but the chief use of the
plant is as a perfume.

Lavender is very hardy and easily cultivated. It may
be propagated by seeds, slips, or cuttings. Sow the seed
in drills ten inches apart, and transplant the next spring
to a dry soil of but medium richness, and it will be more
highly aromatic. Give each plant about two feet of space ;
for drying gather the flowers before they begin to fade in
the least.

Mentha—Mint. Mentha Piperita—PEPPERMINT.

A perennial; a native of Europe. It has a strong,
agreeable odor, a pungent, aromatic taste, giving a sensa-
tion of coldness in the mouth. Its medical properties are
aromatic, stimulant, and stomachic. It is much used to

294 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. -

obviate nausea and relieve flatulent colic. The essential
oil and essence are the forms in which it is employed in
medicine, and they are also largely used in confectionery
and cordials.

Mentha Virzdis—SPEARMINT.

Is a European perennial, and belongs rather to the*
culinary than the medicinal department of the garden. It
is employed in sauces and salads, as well as dried for
soups in winter. A few sprigs of mint boiled a little time
with them, and then withdrawn, are thought by some to
improve the flavor of green peas. It is also used in pre-
paring mint-julep. Its medicinal properties are aromatic,
stimulant, and stomachic. ‘The leaves boiled in milk are
useful in diarrhcea. Its infusion is good to prevent nausea.
There are two varieties, the broad and narrow leaved,
equally good.

Mint Sauce—Three tablespoonfuls of young spearmint
minced, mixed with two of sugar, and six of vinegar. To
be eaten with roast lamb, to which it imparts a delicious
flavor.

Mentha Pulegium—PENNYROYAL.

Pennyroyal is more acrid than the’other mints, and its
taste and smell are less agreeable. It possesses their
“warm, pungent flavor, and other general properties, but is
not so good a stomachic. It is used for colds, and also as
anemmenagogue. Its essence will sometimes relieve the
_toothache. The American pennyroyal belongs to a dif-
ferent genus, Hedeoma.

This genus of plants requires a tenacious soil, which is
all the better if moist or even wet. .

A border sheltered from the mid-day sun, but not
entirely secluded from its influence, is always to be allotted

BALM— HOREHOUND. 295

them, as in such a situation they are most vigorous and
constant in production.

They are readily propagated by dividing the roots in
the winter or spring, or by cuttings planted in moist soil
during summer.

The only after culture required, is an occasional sl'ght
manuring, and the destruction of weeds.

New beds should be made as often as once in four years.

Melissa Officinalis—Baum.

A hardy perennial, native of Switzerland and the South
of France, but has long been cultivated in gardens. It
has an aromatic taste, and a grateful fragrant smell, a little
like lemons. |
_* It is a square-stemmed plant, rising about two feet high.
It is used in making balm-tea, a grateful drink in fevers,
and for forming a pleasant beverage called balm wine.
The infusion promotes perspiration, and is thought good
for complaints produced by a disordered nervous system.
Balm is a great favorite with the bees.

Any garden soil will do for balm. It is readily propa-
gated either by slips, or by parting the roots in spring.
Plant ten inches apart, giving water if dry weather.

Marrubsum Vulgare—HoreEHnounp.

A perennial plant, a native of most parts of Europe,
growiug in waste grounds among rubbish in warm dry
situations. It has a strong aromatic smell, and a bitter,
pungent taste, which is permanent in the mouth; medici-
nally, horehoundis a tonic, somewhat stimulant and diuretie,
and in large doses laxative. It is useful in asthma and
jaundice, and is a favorite remedy in pulmonary complaints.

Obstinate catarrhs have been cured by taking the ex-

296 GARDENING FOR- THE SOUTH.

pressed juice in new milk. It enters largely into the
composition of cough syrups and lozenges.

Sow the seeds in the spring, in any common soil. It
scarcely needs any attention. It may also be propagated
by dividing the roots.

Pimpinella Anisum—ANISE.

An annual, a native of Egypt. It is cultivated for its
seeds, and its leaves which are occasionally used as a
garnish, and for seasoning like fennel. The seeds have a
fragrant agreeable smell, and a sweetish pleasant taste.
They are useful in weakness of the stomach and bowels, in
dyspepsia, and colic, and in restoring the tone of the
stomach generally.

The plant grows about 18 inches high. Sow the seed
where it is to stand in Apri, in a dry, light soil, and thin
out the plants, if too thick, to three or four inches apart.

Rosmarinus Officcnalis—ROSEMARY.

A hardy, evergreen shrub, a native of the South of
Europe. It has a fragrant, grateful odor, and a warm
aromatic bitter taste. Its medicinal virtues are tonic,
stimulant, and resolvent, and it is a useful, but powerful
emmenagogue. It is employed in chlorosis, uterine ob-
structions, and nervous headaches generally.

It was formerly believed this plant gave strength to the
memory. ‘The tender tops are the parts used in medicine.

Rosemary may be raised from seed, or by planting slips
or cuttings in the spring or autumn. Sow the seed in
drills sixteen inches apart. Transplant the next spring or
autumn. Two or three plants will be enough.

RUE—SAGE, 297

Ruta Graveolens—RvE.

A perennial, evergreen under-shrub from the South of
Europe. It flowers all summer, and is very well known
from its peculiar strong, unpleasant smell. Its taste is
bitter and pungent, and the leaves so acrid as to blister the
skin. It is avery powerful medicinal agent, and must be
employed with caution. It is tonic, stimulant, antispas-
modic, and an emmenagogue, owing its power to the
essential oil of the leaves. Rue is much used in hysteria
and nervous complaints, also for flatulent cholic. <A strong
infusion as a clyster is found useful in the convulsions of
children. The plant is too powerful to be generally used
in family practice.

Rue is propagated by seeds, cuttings, or slips. It must
not have a very rich soil, nor be suffered to run to seed.

Sow the seed and cultivate as hyssop.
*

Salvia Officinalis—SAGE.

Sage is an evergreen under shrub, a native of the South
of Europe. It has been cultivated from the earliest times,
was classed among the heroic remedies, and considered
the best of medicines for prolonging human life. An old
Latin adage is ‘‘Cur moriatur homo eui salvia crescit in
horto,” “Why should a man die while sage is growing in
his garden.” Sage grows about two feet high, with
wrinkled ashy green leaves, and terminal blue flowers in
long spikes. It has a fragrant smell, and a warm bitterish
aromatic taste.

Cultwre.—Sage is raised from seed, slips or cuttings. It
likes a dry, fertile soil. Sow the seeds in February, May, or
March, in shallow drills eight inches apart. Press the earth
upon the seed, covering them not over half an inch deep.
Thin the plants when well up to half a foot apart, planting

hae

998 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

those taken up at a similiar distance. Keep the soil light and
free from weeds. Inthe autumn or the next spring, plant
them out in rows eighteen inches each way. Layers and
rooted offsets may be set out at once at this distance,
Cuttings of the outward shoots of the current year’s
growth, planted out in a shady border in moist weather,
readily take root ; set them in rows six inches apart. In
autumn or spring, take them carefully up and set them
out in their final stations. Trim the plants to a round,
bushy head. Gather and dry the leaves for winter use,
but do not trim the plants too closely, especially in autumn
or winter.

Use-—The leaves are used for seasoning stuflings, sauces,
and many kinds of meat,as well as to improve the flavor of
various other articles of cookery. Medicinally its infusion
is given warm as a sudorific, or mingled with vinegar and
alum is an excellent gargle in sore throat. It is stated by
Bomare, that it was exported formerly by the Dutch to
China, and it was so much preferred by the Chinese to
their own tea, that they willingly exchanged two boxes of
it for one of sage.

Salvia Sclarea—CLaRy.

A biennial from Italy. The leaves of this plant were
formerly used in soups, and its flowers are now made use
of in a fermented wine. |

The medicinal virtues of the plant are cordial and
astringent, and it is used either in its fresh or dried state.
For propagation and culture, see “ Sage.”

Sesamum Orventale—BENE.
An annual, a native of Africa and India. Introduced
into this country by the negroes. It grows from three to
six feet high, beas‘ng numerous pods, filled with smallish

BENE—TANSY. 299

seed. These are used for food in many parts of the
world, and are also cultivated for the oil with which
they abound. It resembles that of olives, and is nearly
as good. The leaves abound in mucilage; one or two
stirred in a pint of water, will form a bland mucila-
ginous drink very useful in cholera infantum, dysentery
and summer complaints generally. The leaves should be
freshly gathered, and enough may be added to make the
water ropy without affecting its color or taste. Give this
drink to the little sufferers in moderate quantity, and it will
afford great relief.

Sow a row in April, on the edge of a plat or border, and
thin out as the plants require room. A few plants will
furnish all the leaves desired.

Tanacetum Vulgare—'T ANSY.

A perennial, 1 native of Europe, long cultivated in gar-
dens. It was formerly used to give flavor to puddings
and omelets. .

Its medical properties are tonic and stomachic. It is
also a vermifuge. It is much used as a domestic remedy
beneficial in dyspepsia, hysteria, arising from uterine
affections, aud in gout. It was formerly of very general
use in the preparation of alcoholic bitters.

Divide the roots, and set out a few slips in autumn or
spring. After it is well rooted, be careful you do not get
too much of it.

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

SinckE the publication of the “ Fruit and Fruit Trees of
America,” by the late Mr. Downing, fruit culture has re-
ceived increased attention in all parts of the Union. The -
valuable Treatises of Thomas, Cole, and Barry, soon fol-
lowed, and more recently that of Elliot ; each containing
much additional matter which, with the monthly issues of
the Horticulturist, Hovey’s Magazine, and for a time the
Western Horticultural Review, leave little in pomologi-
eal literature tc be desired for the Northern States. But,
unhappily for us, many of the varieties described in these
works are wholly unsuited to our climate. This is espe-
cially true of the apple. The modes of culture and prun
ing there recommended, are in the main as well adapted
to this latitude as to any other, bearing in mind that
mulching is more beneficial here, that we must prune
much more closely in transplanting, and form the heads of
the trees necessarily much nearer the earth than is abso-
lutely required in a cooler climate. Insects too, of all
kinds, are more annoying, and require more vigilance to
keep them under. So, upon the whole, more care is re-
“quired to keep our trees in a perfectly healthy condition.
Besides, fruits decay so quickly with us, that it is more
difficult to get them to market in good condition, or to
preserve them long for home use.

On the other hand, our climate has some peculiar ad-
vantages. A tree well cared for, makes fully twice the
growth it will do as far north as New York. It will

come generally some years sooner into bearing. Besides,
(300

THE FRUIT GARDEN. 301

many fruit trees can be readily made to grow from cut-
tings; and trees thus propagated come very soon into
bearing, and are in general equally healthy with those
grown by other modes. |

Our lists below are not very long, and doubtless some
varieties named in them will give place to native sorts,
when the latter become more widely diffused. Hvery
owner of a choice native fruit should interest himself in
disseminating it. Our great deficiency, at present, is in
late-keeping fruits, especially of the fall and winter pears
and apples, in sufficient variety. Peaches, too, of fine qual-
ity, that will ripen here in September, and a few ripening
still later, are very desirable, A few years more experience
and the fruiting of many varieties now collected, will
doubtless render it possible to improve the lists that fol-
low—though with the exception of the varieties of the
Orange family and the Olive, there is hardly a fruit in
them, that is not a familiar acquaintance to the writer,
and these lists may be relied on as embracing the most yal-
uable varieties that have fruited in this section up to 1856.
The collections of Dr. Ward, Mr. Camak, and others,
planted as far back as 1836, and now in full bearing, and
more recently Mr. Van Buren’s, at Clarksville, together
with my own, have rendered it less difficult to form select
lists of the most desirable kinds. Besides the varieties
fully described, a list of those worthy of trial is occasion-
ally added, embracing those found most desirable in other
sections, which are likely to prove of equal or superior
value here. As these come into bearing, notes of their
quality will be given from time to time in the ‘‘ Southern
Cultivator.” Most of them will fruit the next summer
(1856) in my ground.

The main requisites for a fruit garden are protection
from pillage by a suitable Ledge or ae enclosure ; with-

e

802 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

out which a garden is more annoyance than pleasure;
freedom in its aspect from a full southern or eastern expo-
sure, that the sun’s rays may not strike the trees when the
frost is upon them; thorough drainage to carry off sur-
plus moisture before it stagnates and a soil of medium
texture and good quality, of great depth, naturally, or
made so by subsoiling or trenching. Over rich soil is not
desirable——especially if made so by animal manures; but it
must be of at least good quality, and above all deep. ‘Trees
can neither make growth nor swell their fruit (drawing so
largely as they do in both cases, of moisture from the
soil), during our protracted droughts, unless the soil is
deeply trenched. In a soil two or three feet in depth
they will hold their fruit, maintain the deep, healthy green
of their foliage and continue their growth in our most try-
ing seasons. It is much less expense to prepare tho
ground thoroughly before the trees are planted. While
the trees are young, sufficient manure from time to time can
be applied to keep the soil in good condition, and almost
any low growing hoed crop can be raised among them.
Corn is very objectionable, as it shades and nearly starves
the young trees. It is necessary to keep the soil well
cultivated to ensure rapid growth. After the trees are
well grown, it is better to give them the whole ground and
turn in, daily, during the fruit season, poultry or swine to
devour the fallen fruit and to destroy insects. The whole
orchard should receive a shallow plowing every autumn,
and may be sown with barley, to keep the soil from wash-
ing during winter. This must on no account be allowed
to ripen, but be fed off by swine or turned into the soil as
green manure, in the spring. A good winter vetch would
be very desirable for this purpose, as legumes draw most
of their food from the air, while barley is nourished mostly
from the soil, to the greater detriment of the trees.

THE ALMOND. 3808

Amygdalis C ommums—ALMOND.

The almond is a native of Asia, and Northern Africa.
It is a tree of medium size, nearly allied to the peach in
habit and general appearance. The leaves are similar to
the peach, having glands like some varieties of the latter
fruit, and flowers of similar shape, but much larger and
more ornamental, varying in color from snewy white to a
fine blush. ‘The chief difference is in the fruit, the stone
of the almond being flatter, not so hard, and covered with
a woolly skin fhat opens spontaneously when the kernel
is ripe.

In southern Europe, the almond is much cultivated, and
large quantities of nuts exported. The kernel is the part
in use; the sweet varieties, whether green or dry,
form a very nutritious article of food, and a most agreeable
addition to the dessert. Almonds are used in confection-
ery, cooking, perfumery, and medicine. The Bitter
almond is the kind used in perfuming and flavoring. It
owes its flavor to the prussic acid it contains, which, though
a violent poison, is not thought injurious in the small quan-
tities required for these purposes.

Cultwation—A warm, dry soil is most suitable for the
almond, which is cultivated exactly like the peach, and
is subject to the same diseases. It may be budded on the
almond, peach, or plum stock. I have not been able to find
any analysis of the ash of the almond tree. It probably
differs little from that of the peach. ‘The varieties are:

Common Almond—Nuts one and one-fourth inches
long, hard, smooth, compressed, and pointed, with a
kernel of agreeable flavor. The hardiest and most pro-
ductive variety, and is the common, hard-shelled almond
of the shops. Flowers expand before the leaves.

Long, Hard-shelled Almond.—Nut of the same size

B04 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

but kernel larger and better flavor than the preceding
Flowers large, rose-colored, and the tree very ornamental
when in blossom,

Ladies’ Thin-shelled Almond—The soft-shelled almonds
of the shops. Flowers are of a deeper color than the fore-
going variety. Nut oval, one-sided, pointed, with a
porous, light-colored shell, so tender that it may be
crushed with the fingers. Kernel sweet, rich, and highly
esteemed.

Bitter Almonds—are of several varieties, differing in the
hardness of the shell, closely resembling the others, except
in the bitter kernel. Blossoms pale pink. Leaves larger,
and of a darker green than the other varieties.

Amygdalus Perstca-—PEAcH.

The peach is a native of Persia, whence its cultivation
has proceeded westward; but it has nowhere found a soil
or climate more congenial to it than in these Southern
States. Indeed, the peach is the favorite, and, in many
instances, the only fruit tree cultivated by our planters.
Requiring a soil of but moderate fertility, its enemies and
diseases are so few, and the return so speedy, that there
is no excuse for being without good peaches.

We entirely escape the yellows and the curl, J believe,
except in the case of northern importations, which gener-
ally recover, though checked for a season. The borer is
not very abundant, but is on the increase. The worm in
the fruit is very troublesome, especially in the white-fleshed
varieties. The borer can be prevented from entering the
tree, generally, by covering the collar thereof with lime or
leached ashes. If already in the tree, which is shown by
the gum exuding from the collar, he may be dug out with
a knife; or hot water can be poured about the base of the
tree and into his haunts at any time, which will destroy

THE PEACH. ASO

the, grub without injury to the tree. The worm in the
fruit is best prevented by permitting pigs or fowls to con-
sume all the fallen fruit of the orchard as it drops.

A somewhat serious difficulty, in peach culture, is the re-
sult of bad pruning. It is the tendency to
overbear and break down the limUs from the
excess of the crop. More peach trees are
destroyed or badly injured from this cause “
than any other. The peach trees hould
always be pruned at the extremities of
the branches, by cutting off, close to a bud, one-third, or,
if very luxuriant, one-half the last year’s growth. (See
plate of tree properly pruned in the figure.) The fruit is
produced on these small branches; and by reducing the
top in this manner, overbearing is prevented, the fruit is
effectually thinned, and is larger, finer flavored, and nearly
as much fruit can be taken from each tree without danger
of breaking. The tree is also kept low and close, and
more trees and larger crops can be grown to the acre. This
method of pruning is called shortening-in, or heading-in,

and is expeditiously done with a pair of pruning shears.*
Pruning can be performed upon the peach at any time
when the leaves are off. If it is wished to throw young
trees very early into fruit, they may be shortened the last
of July, the year they are transplanted. In shortening-in,
the top must not be sheared evenly all over like the side
of a hedge, which would cause a thick, impenetrable mass
of shoots on the outside, and shut out all light from the
centre, but the centre should be kept somewhat open.
Large limbs must, if pruned, be cut off close to a branch.

** When this is inconvenient, larger portions of the branches may
be taken off once in two years, leaving the head in a neat, rounded
form, and taking care to cut at a fork so as to leave no bare stumps
Old trees may be restored in this manner.

306 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Care should be taken that the branches are not permitted
to divide in forks, as they are exceedingly apt to split, to
the great detriment of the tree. The peach, like all other
fruit trees, should be suffered to branch low within twelve
or eighteen inches of the surface, and kept in as near
either a pyramidal or vase form as its nature admits.

But the loss of peaches by decay, as they approach ma-
turity, is more annoying than anything else in peach eul-
ture. Ifthe season is warm and wet, very few kinds ripen
well if on moist or very rich soils. There is a very com-
mon opinion, that peaches propagated from the stones of
fruit not fully ripe, are more liable to rot than those pro-
pagated from the pits of fully matured peaches. Is there
any evidence to sustain this opinion? Some also think
decay and dropping of stone fruits is caused by planting
the trees too deep. It is however, certain, that some vari-
eties are much more subject to decay than others placed in
the same position. Much, also, depends upon the soil. The
most suitable soils, to ripen sound and high-flavored fruit,
are dry, and but moderately fertile—a hill-side being as
good a situation as any. If it faces the north, the crop
will be less liable to be cut off by spring frosts, but will
hardly be as fine favored. Thinning the fruit, so that no
two peaches touch each other, is very necessary in order
to prevent decay at the point of contact.

Uses—The peach is mostly used in its fresh state for
the dessert, and is generally considered the most delicious
fruit of temperate climates. When allowed to ripen on
the tree, it is the most wholesome of fruits, and as an
article of food is considerably nutritious. Peaches are also —
used for pies, are preserved in brandy or sugar, and are
excellent, when dried, for winter use. For culinary pur-
poses, the clings are most esteemed. Peaches and milk
form a delicious dessert dish. For drying, take those of

ANALYSIS OF THE PEACH. 807

the best quality, just as they are ripe enough to eat;
halve tham, remove the stones, and sprinkle over them, in
the hollow from which the pit was taken, a little nice
sugar, and dry them in a brick oven, after the bread, &c.,
is withdrawn. ‘Thus prepared, the aroma and flavor is
retained, and they are free from insects. If the peaches
are fully ripe, no cooking is required, but the dried fruit is
simply soaked out in cold or warm water. Sufficient
sugar, varying with the acidity of the fruit, is added be-
fore drying. The firm yellow-fleshed peaches, of a high
vinous flavor, are best for drying. Peaches thus prepared
are only inferior to the fresh fruit, of which they retain
much of the flavor. Dried in the usual way, from unripe
fruit, exposed to the sun, much of the flavor is dissipated.
Peaches are excellent, preserved, in Arthur’s Self-sealing
Cans, according to the directions given with the cans.

Analysis—We give an analysis of the peach, by Salis-
bury :— >

Bark ; Wood Bark Wood x7
of _|* of of of | Leaves! Pits.* a Live}
Trunk./Trunk.| Root. Root. : >

Potash, is. < 1.20 veo 3.162 8.58 12.41] 18.47 8.85 19.21
Sodas csc. 1 os DEES 1.92 TOO 2N ew ae Oeil aches ; 8.11
Chloride of So :

Chine Sab ee 0.04) 0.16 0.33 GO| bare eversve 2.70 0.28 0.24
Chloride of Po- i hy

UA SSULINIRS era, Merl ts, ope wince Itenises lt ciowetacsyase, 08/5 axerescle 0.36

Sulphuric ‘Acid, 4.19} 1.51 3,44 0.58; 12.12) 15,12 6.18 8.07
Carbonic Acid,

Lime,.........-| 42.17) 23.26] 38.48 0.11 14.77; 16.80} 31.98} 24.64
Magnesia, ....| 2.16] 6,40 2.91 0.01 8.00} 1.33 6.00 9.76
Phosphate Pe-

rox. Iron,...| 0.45; 0.32 10.40 1.02 2.47) 1.38 1.€0 0.60
Phosph. Lime,.| 18.79] 29.19 } 18.10) 10.44) 17.98 8.50} 138.20

Phosph. Mag-

NMeSta: «5 Shida. QUOM DISA En eye 30.00 3.15} 0.02 0.20 0.20
Organic matter} 3.80) 5.20 3.60 2.59 0.86} 6°61 5.00 8.40
Insoluble Sili-

Cay. sein - e-.| 4.15) 1.35 9-40 6.46 6.42) 10.00 4 30 1.00

109.04'1104.97' 104.562 89.02 86.85] 128.77 99.03!

# Analysis made with two grains of ash. + Peach limbs half an inch in diameter

“A >

808 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Lime, potash, and the phosphates, are the chief elements
the peach requires in the soil. Bone-dust and wood-ashes
are valuable applications, much more suitable than com-
mon animal manures. They may be dressed with compost
of woods earth (leaf-mould), or swamp-muck, if the soil is
very poor. .

When the trees are planted, the holes may be made
large, and enriched with well-decayed manure, to give a
good growth of wood. For this purpose, guano is an ex-
cellent application; but it is fatal to the tree, if it touch
the roots. I have applied it, with success, to all kinds
of fruit trees. After the holes are dug, a little guano is
sprinkled in the hole; this is covered at least two inches
deep with fresh loam, on which the tree is placed. If
the soil is very sandy, two inches might not be sufficient
to protect the roots. When the roots are entirely coy-
ered, another sprinkling may be given, which is covered
over with more earth. ‘Two or three tablespoonfuls
are sufficient for a tree, and but a small quantity is re-
quired for a large orchard. For this purpose. as well as
manuring most shrubs, rose bushes, &c., few applications
are so cheap or so satisfactory. But guano must not touch
the roots, in its dry, caustie state. After the tree begins
to fruit, application of lime,ashes or leaf-mould are much
better than those which excite rank growth, since they do
not impair the flavor of the fruit, or induce decay.

The peach is best propagated by budding and grafting
upon seedling peach stocks. There are, however, many
varieties, of the clings particularly, that can be raised true
to. their kind by planting the seed, especially if the tree
from which the stone is taken stands apart from other vari-
eties. It is believed that the stone of a seedling is more
apt to reproduce its kind than if taken from the fruit of
a budded or grafted tree. Seedlings often escape frosts

THE PEAJSH. 3809

that are fatal to the finer varieties; but the highest fla-
vored seedlings are often quite as susceptible of injury as
those budded or grafted. High-flavored varieties are
usually tender.

Plum stocks are recommended by foreign writers; but
they are of little use in this climate, for the graft soon out-
grows the stock and breaks off.

Peach stocks are raised by planting the stones two or
three inches deep, in the autumn or winter. If the stones
are cracked, they are more sure to grow. Abundance of
stocks can often be secured by taking the volunteers that
spring up under the trees early in the spring, when about
an inch high, and transplanting in rows two and a half feet
apart and sixteen inches in the row. Plant them in good
soil, where they will grow rapidly; for on this, more than
anything else, the success of budding depends. If the sea-
son is good, the best will do to bud in June. When the
bud starts, the top may be headed down, and if the stocks
are vigorous, they will make sufficient growth to be fit for
transplanting the next winter. Budding may be continued,
while the bark rises freely, until the first of October; the
last will make no growth until spring, It should, however,
be performed as early as the stocks will admit. It is best
in budding, when you do not wish to preserve the scion
a day or two, to leave a portion of the leaf, say half an
inch, attached with the leaf-stalk to the bud, as it attracts
the sap, and the bud is more likely to take. The bud
should be put in the north side of the stock, to screen it
from the sun. Any of the trees which have failed in
taking the bud may be taken up, and grafted in the root
the ensuing winter; a mode of propagation which for-
tunately succeeds well here, as it enables us to procure
scions of valuable varieties, in a dormant state, from all
sections of the Union.

310 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Peach trees raised or varieties originating in the North-
ern States, are not at all unfitted for our climate. We
know of trees from the North, imported in 1836, and
others almost every year since, growing side by side with
good native varieties, and giving as profitable results. It
will be many years, before we get twenty-five as good
southern varieties that ripen in succession as can be
selected from any nursery catalogue. Still every superior
variety—especially of those that ripen late, for such can-
not be procured at the North—should be disseminated at
once. It sometimes happens that a fruit which originates
in one locality, is better fitted for some other section.
Some few European varieties of fruits are found to suc-
ceed better on this continent than even where they origi-
nated.

Peach trees, in transplanting, are usually set twenty
feet apart each way ; which gives one hundred and eight
trees to the acre. They may, if shortened in yearly, be
set out fifteen feet apart, which will give one hundred and
ninety-three trees, or in small gardens twelve feet, giving
three hundred and two trees per acre. In gardens, fifteen
feet is generally the best distance.

Peaches are so much alike in general character—the
difference in outline, color, flavor, and texture being less
than with other fruits, it is necessary in order to determine
the name of a variety, to resort to other methods of dis-
tinction.

The two most obvious divisions are into free-stones and
cling-stones ; or, as we call them, soft and plum peaches—
the flesh of the former parting freely from the stone, and
being of a melting consistency ; and that of the latter ad-
hering to the stone, and being of a firmer texture. The
English name these divisions, melters and pavies. Both
these grand divisions are subdivided into classes according

THE PEACH. 811

to the color of the flesh—viz.: those with light-colored and
those with deep-yellow flesh. These classes are again
subdivided into three sections.

At the base of the leaf, of some varieties, will be found
small glands which are either round and regular, or oblong
and irregular, or kidney-shaped; while others have no
glands, but are more deeply cut or serrated like the teeth
of a saw.

NZ A \
\ Z Wie
\) \, V2
\ NZ; : \Wy _—.

NYY, \ L-

\Vi/ \

NG

NE Gant Gh 7,

SERRATED AND GLANDLESS. GLOBOSE GLANDS. RENIFORM GLANDS

Hence the three sections, viz.: 1., Leaves serrated with-
out glands, a.; 2. Leaves with small, round, or globose
glands, b.; 3. Leaves with large irregular reniform glands, c.

From the blossom, another characteristic is derived,
giving us two subsections. The first embracing large
flowers, red in the centre, and pale at the margin. The
second, small flowers, tinged with dark at the margin.
Most of the native peaches, in this vicinity, belong to the
first class; but the great mass of the finest fruits have
small flowers.

Varieties —The following varieties have been tried in
in this vicinity, and are found among the most desirable.
They are classed pretty much in the order of ripening.*
A full list of good clingstones in succession, from the

* In 1852, two or three weeks earlier than the next year; so the
times of ripening. and even the order cannot be fully relied on.

O12 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

beginning to the end of the peach season is yet to be
obtained. All named are good bearers.

Columbus Juwne-—Glands reniform ; flowers small ; fruit
medium to large, flattened, or slightly hollowed at the
apex; suture shallow; skin pale yellowish white, with
rich, red cheek ; flesh slightly red at stone, melting, juicy,
and high-flavored; excellent; ripens here 20th June
productive. ree.

Serrate Early York.—Leaves serrate, glandless ; flowers
large; fruit—size medium, roundish oval; suture slight ;
skin thickly dotted with’ pale red on a greenish-white
eround, in the shade—dark red in the sun; flesh
greenish-white, tender, melting, full of rich, slightly acid
juice ; ripens 20th June. ree.

Walter’s Early—Glands globose; flowers small; size
above medium; color, nearly white, with a fine red

cheek; flesh, whitish, slightly red at stone—melting,

juicy, sweet, and fine-flavored; not so easily injured by
frost as some others; likes sandy soils; succeeds as far
south as Mobile; ripens Ist of July. Free.

Early Newington Free—Glands globose ; flowers small;
fruit medium to large, round; suture distinct; one half
larger than the other; skin yellowish-white, dotted and
streaked with red; cheek rich red; flesh white, red at
stone, to which it partially adheres; juicy, melting, and
vinous. Ripens early in July.

Grosse Mignonne-—Glands globose ; flowers large; fruit
large, roundish, apex, depressed, suture distinct; skin
dull white, mottled with red, and with a purplish red
cheek; flesh red at the stone, melting, juicy; with a rich,
high vinous flavor ; stone small, very rough; perhaps, the
best free-stone peach in cultivation; ripens July 8th. If
it has a rival it is

George IV.—Glands globose; flowers small ; fruit large,

THE PEACH. 3138

round, with broad suture; skin white, dotted with red,
and rich, dark-red cheek; flesh pale, melting, very juicy,
with rich, luscious flavor; stone small; ripens July 8th.
Free. bs

Crawford's Early—Glands globose; flowers small; a
yellow-flesh peach ; fruit very large, oblong, with a pro-
minent, swollen point ; skin yellow, with a fine, red cheek ;
flesh yellow, melting, sweet, and excellent; ripens middle
of July. Free.

Belle de Beaucaire-—Glands globose; flowers small;
fruit very large, roundish, with protruding point, suture
shallow, but distinctly marked ; skin light-yellowish green,
with cheek slightly reddened. Flesh pale greenish yellow
red at the stone, a little coarse, but melting and deli-
cious, full of rich, vinous juice; skin slips readily from
the flesh, without the use of a knife; ripens last of July.
Free. Variable, but in perfection most excellent.

Old Mixon Cling —Glands globose; flowers small; fruit
large, roundish oval; suture at top ; skin yellowish white:
dotted with red, red cheek; flesh light, melting, juicy,
with a rich, high, luscious flavor. Ripens last of July and
early in August. There is no better peach known.

Late Red Rareripe—Glands globose; flowers small ;
fruit large, roundish, oval; skin downy, grayish-white,
marbled with red in the sun; flesh pale, juicy, melting, and
of a rich, luscious flavor. Ripens last of July.

Late Admirable—Glands globose; flowers small; fruit
large, roundish, oval ; suture distinct ; apex swollen, acute ;
skin pale, yellowish-green, with pale, red cheek, marbled
with darker red; flesh pale, melting, and fine-flavored;
Ripens 10th to 15th August. Free. A superb peach.

Crawfcrd’s T.ate—Glands globose; flowers small; a
magnificent yellow peach; very large, roundish; suture

shallow, but distinct; skin yellow, with dark red cheek;

14

=>

B14 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

flesh deep yellow, red at stone; juicy and melting, with
rich, vinous flavor; early in August. ee.

Newington Cling—Leaves serrate ; flowers large ; fruit
large, roundish; suture slight ; “skin pale yellowish-white,
with fine, red cheek ; flesh pale, yellowish-white, deep-red
at the stone; melting, juicy, and rich. A cling. Ripens
10th August.

Lemon Cling.—Glands reniform; flowers small; leaves
long; fruit large, oblong, narrowed at top, with a swollen
projecting-point ; skin rich, dark-yellow, reddened in the
sun ; flesh fine yellow, red at the stone, with a rich vinous
flavor. Ripens 10th of August. Cling. Pitt’s Lemon-
Cling is an improvement on the above.

President—Glands globose; large, roundish, oval; su-
ture shallow; skin downy, pale, yellowish-green, with a
dull, red cheek ; flesh pale, but deep red at the stone, very
juicy, melting, and high-flavored; stone very rough.
Middle of August. Free.

Yellow Blanton-Cling—Leaves large; glands globose ;
Fruit large, and shaped like Lemon-Cling, with the same
projecting, swollen point; skin rich orange, with a slightly
reddened cheek; flesh orange yellow; firm, but full of
a delicious vinous juice. Later and better than the Le-
mon-Cling. ‘To my taste the best of the clings. Repro-
duces itself fromseed. Ripens August 10th.

Tippecanoe-Cling.—Glands reniform; flowers small;
fruit very large, nearly round, with a point; skin yellow,
with fine red cheek ; flesh yellow, juicy, with fine, vinous
flavor. Ripe the last of August.

White English-Cling.—Glands globulose ; flowers small ;
fruit very large oval; suture slight, with a swollen point
at top; skin clear creamy white, with a slight hue of red
on the sunny side; flesh delicate white, free from red at
‘the stone, to which it firmly adheres; very rich, juicy,

THE PEACH. 315

and high flavored. As it is free from color, one of the
best for preserving in sugar or brandy. Doubtless ori-
ginated from the Heath Cling, with which it is almost
identical.

Baugh—tLeaves with globose glands; fruit medium,
roundish, terminated with a small point; suture. obscure ;
skin pale yellow, almost white, with a slight blush to-
wards the sun; flesh yellowish white, melting and juicy,
with a sweet, pleasant favor. Free. Ripens 1st October.

Baldwin’s Late. Free.—Fruit large, oblong, with a
distinct swollen point at the top; skin greenish white,
with a slight red cheek; flesh very firm, juicy, melting,
and well flavored. Ripe last of October, and will keep
several weeks in the house.

Freestone.* —Disseminated by Dr. Baldwin, of Mont-
gomery.

Eidward’s Late White and Pride of Autumn ; the latter
especially, are described as excellent late Peaches.
Lady Perham, Mr. Afflech writes, is the only October
Peach he knows of first rate quality. Free.

Scott’s Late October is said by Mr. Summer to be a
large Cling, with a dingy greenish skin; flesh firm and
remarkably sweet, ripening last of October.

While this work is going through the press, Mr. Nelson,
in the Southern Cultivator, gives the following select list
as those his large experience proves most desirable :—

May Peach—Ripens last of May. Small white; flesh
white, sweet and pleasant. Free. Early Anne—Round,
pure white, small size, very juicy and delicious. Ripens
first weekin June. Free. Early Tillotson.—Ripens 15th
June. arly York (Serrate)—Ripens 20th June. Flew-
cllen,—The earliest Cling; flesh deep red, exceedingly

% Nelson.

316 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Juicy and refreshing, of high, vinous flavor. Ripens July
ist. Yellow Rarertpe—tLarge, deep orange, juicy and
well flavored. Ripens July 4th—free. Walter's Early.
—Ripens July 8th. Gross Mignonne—Ripens July 8th.
Vanzandt’s Superb—White, nearly covered with red,
juicy, melting, and high flavored. Ripens July 10th; too
tender for market—free. Bergen’s Yellow—Best of
Yellow Peaches; dingy yellow, covered with dark, dull
red; flesh orange, very juicy—free. Ripens July 10th.
Crawford's Early—Ripens July 12th. Red Rareripe.—
Resembles Gross Mignonne externally; a week later; too
tender for market, but delicious for home use. Ripens
July 16th. George Fourth. Old Mixon Free—Ripens
July 18th. Very juicy and fine. Congress Cling.—Like
Old Mixon Cling, large, very juicy, sweet, and well flavor-
ed; excellent for market. Ripens July 20th. Napo-
leon—Large, oblong, skin dingy green, considerably cov-
ered with red; flesh firm, marbled with blood red, very
juicy and rich. Ripens July 20th. Green Catherine.—
Large, oblong, creamy white, with red cheeks, firm, sweet,
and delicious. Ripens July 20th—free. Late Admira-
ble—Ripens July 20th. Breevoort—Large, firm, and
well flavored—free. Ripens July 20th. President—
Ripens July 24th. Crawford's Late—Ripens July 24th.
Columbia, or Pace—Ripens August 3d. Druid Hill.—
Greenish white, slight red cheek, juicy, melting and rich.
Ripens August 8th. Newington Cling—Creamy white,
red cheek, red at stone, very juicy and well flavored.
Ripens August 10th. Late Rarertpe—Greyish green,
marbled with red, very downy, dark red cheek, juicy, melt-
ing and rich. Ripens August 10th. Lemon Chnug—
Ripens August 20th. Lagrange—Large, oblong, very
downy ; skin pure white, marked with dark spots; flesh
white, firm, and juicy—free. Ripens August 20th.

THE NECTARINE. 317

Amydalus Vulgaris Var Lavis—NEc TARINE.

Tle nectarine is merely a variety of the peach with a
smooth skin. It is impossible to distinguish the tree from
a peach, except that the fruit is without down. The same
characteristics of the leaf, flower, &c., which are used to
describe the varieties of the peach, are brought into re-
quisition in distinguishing those of the nectarine.

Nectarines usually produce nectarines from the seed;
but the Boston nectarine originated from a peach stone.

The tree is cultivated and pruned like the peach, and
is propagated by budding or grafting on peach stocks.
The great difficulty in raising nectarines (and the same is
true of the apricot), is the curculio. The smooth skin of
these fruits offers an inviting place for this insect to de-
posit its eggs. ‘The injured fruit may be known by being
marked with a small semi-circular impression as if cut with
a “baby’s nail.” It is uselessto plant the nectarine or
apricot, especially in sandy soils, unless the trees are daily
jarred, and the insects collected on sheets as they fall,
and immediately destroyed. A limb may be cut off the
tree, and the stump hit a few times with a mallet smartly,
since if gently shaken the insect will not loose its hold.
Or another very good method is to plant the plums,
apricots, and nectarines by themselves, and admit poultry,
and swine to eat the fallen fruit, which will, if other fruit
gardens are not contiguous, protect the crop the succeed-
ing year.* The borer infests the nectarine as well as the

* In preventing the curculio, I am inclined to think that fowls are
much more serviceable than swine. The latter are of less use the
current season, and mostly beneficial as regards the ensuing crop;
but the chickens and ducks will take the perfect insect, whenever
he falls upon the earth, or rises from it in tha spring.

318 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

peach. Aside from the curculio, the nectarine is as hardy
and easily raised as the peach; though scarcely equal to
the best peaches in flavor. Fine fruit is not to be ex-
pected unless the trees are shortened-in annually, as di-
rected for the peach.

The analysis of the nectarine scarcely differs from the
peach—it requires exactly the same soil. The best
varieties are:

Hlunt’s Tawny—Leaves serrate; flowers small; fruit,
medium size, roundish, oval, with swollen point ; skin pale
orange; dark red in the sun, mottled with russet specks;
flesh orange, juicy, melting, and rich; a good bearer. Ripens
10th July. Free.

Violette Hative or Early Violet.—Glands reniform ;
flowers small; fruit, large, roundish, pale, yellowish-green, -
with purplish red cheek, mottled with brown; flesh
whitish-red at the stone, melting, juicy, and delicious.
Ripens 20th July.

Downton —Glands reniform ; fruit, large, roundish-oval:
skin, pale green, red at the stone, melting, and most deli-
cious. Ripens 20th to 25th of July.

Elruge.— Glands reniform; flower small; fruit me-
dium, roundish-oval; suture slight; skin pale-green, with
deep violet, or blood-red cheek, and minute brown specks;
flesh pale-green, pale-red at stone, melting, juicy, and
rich ; stone oval, rough, and pale-colored. Ripens July 25th.

Boston—Glands globose; flower small; fruit, large,
roundish-oval ; skin, bright yellow, with deep-red cheek;
flesh yellow, not rich but sweet and pleasant. Ripens
last of July.

New White-—Glands reniform ; flower large; fruit large,
nearly round ; skin white, with slight tinge of red in the
sun; flesh, white, tender, juicy, vinous, and rich; stone
small. Ripens Ist of August.

THE APRICOT. 319

The best Clingstone nectarine is the Early Newington ;
and the best of all nectarines is said to be the Stanwick,
the quality of which is yet to be ascertained in this cour-
try. Temple’s issaid also to be a fine variety.

Armeniaca Vulgaris—APRICOT.

The apricot is a fruit somewhat resembling both the
plum and the peach. The tree is ornamental as well as
useful; larger than the plum, with glossy, heart-shaped,
large leaves, and white blossoms, which appear so early
that they are often cut off by frosts. But as with the
nectarine, the great obstacle to its culture is the curculio,
which may be warded off as in the case of that fruit. la
favorable seasons, when protected from the curculio, the
apricot is exceedingly ,productive.

The apricot is a native of Armenia, and other parts of
Central Asia. In quality it is second only to the peach;
but coming earlier (with the earliest plums) it is very ac-
ceptable. For jellies, tarts, and preserving in brandy or
sugar, it is much esteemed, and is excellent when dried
as directed for the peach.

The apricot is generally budded on the plum stock. It
is sometimes propagated on its own root, and also upon the
peach. The plum is the hardier stock, and produces. the
best tree. It may be root-grafted on the Chickasaw plum
by the method of whip-grafting. Those propagated by
seed, are usually very hardy and productive. On the
peach stock, the tree is liable to be destroyed by the
borer, and the fruit is inferior.

Apricots are so apt to bloom too early in the spring,
that it is better to plant them in northern exposures where
they will be retarded in blooming, by the shade of build-
ings there is less danger of severe frost. It is just as
necessary to shorten in the young branches of the apricot

320 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

as those of the peach. The best soil is a deep loam ; eul-
tivate and manure the same as the plum or peach. I ean
find no analysis.

The hardiest Apricots are Dubois, Orange, and Breda.

The best varieties are:

Dubois and Early.—F¥ruit small, roundish-oval; pale
orange; moderately juicy, sweet and good ; vee produc-
tive and hardy. Ripens early in June.

‘Large Early.—Fruit medium size, oblong and com-
pressed; suture deep; skin sligtly downy, pale orange in
the shade; bright orange or ruddy in the sun; flesh
separates freely from the stone, orange colored; rich and
juicy; kernel bitter. Ripens 10th of June.

Orange.— Fruit medium, roundish, with suture hollowed
at the stalk ; skin firm, orange, with a ruddy tinge; flesh
dark orange, rather dry and somewhat adhesive to the
stone, which is small and roundish ; kernel sweet; not first
rate; but excellent for tarts, preserving or drying, and
often bears a full crop when others fail. Ripens June 10th

Breda.— Small roundish, deep orange —darker in the
sun; flesh deep-orange, high-flavored, rich and juicy ;
separating from the stone; kernel edible. A native of
Africa, hardy, productive and fine for dessert or preserves.
-Ripens middle of June.

Peach—Fruit very large, size of a medium peach, round-
ish, sides compressed, and with a distinct suture ; skin yel
low, but deep orange mottled withbrown in the sun; flesh
deep yellow, juicy, rich, and delicious. The finest variety
in cultivation ; stone perforated. Ripens last of June.

Moorpark.— Large roundish oval; skin orange, with
ruddy cheek; flesh bright orange, free from stone; juicy and
of rich luscious flavor; stone perforated. Hardly differs
from the preceding, except in being not quite so large
and a little later. Ripens 21st of July. Very productive.

CHESTNUT AND OTHER NUTS. BYAS

Castanea, etc.-—-CHESTNUT AND OTHER NoTs.

There are several kinds of nuts worthy of cultivation by
every planter, many of which are ornamental shade trees,
besides being valuable for the fruit they yield. For con-
venience we class them all under one herd.

Castanea Vesca.—'The Chestnut is a lofty forest tree,
and common to both continents. The Spanish Chestnut,
or Marron produces avery large, sweet nut, and is propa-
gated by grafting on the common sorts. There are several
varieties of this, of which “ Marron de Lyon’ is the best.
It will bear the second year from the graft. Chestnuts
are difficult to transplant when taken from the woods.
The improved varieties are much superior to the wild.
sorts. The Chestnut as a shade tree is very effective in
‘ondscape gardening.

Carya Alba.—Shell Bark Hickory. This tree is found
in fertile soils all over the Union, producing the common
thin shell white hickory nut. The tree is very regular
and beautiful for ornamental purposes. There is consider-
able difference in the size and flavor of different varieties.
It is generally propagated by seed. The largest and
finest flavored varieties only should be planted.

Carya Oliveforma, or Pecan nut, is still more worthy of
cultivation.

Corylus Avellana (Filberts)—are generally raised from
layers. They should not be allowed to sucker, but trained
to form low heads near the ground, which should be kept
tolerably open, and the young shoots shortened back every
spring. Of the varieties:

Cosford is a large, oblong, oval nut with a thin shell and
of fine flavor. Prolific.

Frizzled, known by its frizzied husk, nut of medium

14%

822 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

size; oval, compressed, husk, hairy, shell thicks kernel
Fiect and good. Productive.

Red Filbert, known by the crimson skin of the kernel,
medium sized, ovate, thick shelled, sweet agreeable kernel,
husk long.

White Filbert—Like the last, but with a light yellow
or white skin. Husk long and tubular, nuts ovate.

Juglaus Regia —Maderia nut is a fine lofty tree, with a
handsome spreading head, producing the well-known nuts
of the shops. Itsis produced from the seed or by grafting.
Likes a rich moist sail.

Juglaus Praeparturiens is similar to the above, but bears
when three years old, and is valuable on this account for
the garden.

Juglaus Nigra, or Black Walnut, should also have a place
in the grounds as a fine shade-tree as well as for its nuts.

Pistacia Vera (The Pistaco nut)—An ornamental tree,
producing agreeable flavored nuts, is much cultivated in
Southern Europe. The tree is dicecious, so that to pro-
duce, the male and female trees must be planted together.
The nuts are oval, the size of the olive, slightly furrowed,
with a mild flavored, oily nut. They begin to be produced
when the tree is five or six years old. The tree itself
grows to the height of fifteen or twenty feet. Nuts of this
tree have been distributed in various parts of the Union
by the Patent Office, and the tree will be likely to suc-
ceed in the low country.

Cerasus Vulgaris—CHERRY.

The Cherry, it is said, was brought from Asia, by Lu-
cullus, the Roman General; and from Rome, its culture
spread over Europe. In cooler latitudes, some of the va-
rieties are quite ornamental on account of their fine foli-
age and early white blossoms; but it stops growing and

THE CHERRY. 393

drops its leaves too early in this climate to be esteemed
for this purpose.

The Cherry, in favorable climates, is highly esteemed as
a pleasant and refreshing fruit. The rich, luscious flavor
of some varieties, and the delicacy and juiciness of oth-
ers, renders it a very desirable dessert fruit. ‘The tender
acid sorts are preserved in sugar or brandy, and are excel-
lent for pies and tarts; dried slowly by artificial heat, with
the addition of sugar, the stones being removed; they are
excellent for winter use. Cherry gum is very similar to
Gum Arabic. The Cherry is a very difficult fruit to
bring to perfection in the South, except the common Mo-
rello ; and even this does not average a really good yield
oftener than once in two or three years. It likes a mel-
low loam, so deeply trenched that it will not suffer from
drought, and pretty well enriched. A thin mulching of
chip manure or tan bark about the roots, is a beneficial
application.

I have been able to obtain an analysis of the fruit and
stalk only, which is by Richardson :

CHERRY.
ed

(ia SN
Entire Fruit. Stalk.

Potassa, . d : : 51.85 42.66

Soda, . : i : sh panini ON 2 amie yal 7
Lime, ; - : : 7.47 22.29
Magnesia, . 3 ; er P46o) ct:
Sulphuric Acid, : : O09) ¢ 12.08
Silicic sé : : sey HESS 2:09
Phosphoric “ ©. : 14.21 14.89
Phosph. of Sesquioxide of Iron, 3.74 2.35
Chloride of Iron, ; 2.02 2.39
100.00 99.00

_ Per-centage ofash . . 043 2.87

324 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Cherries are generally budded or grafted on the Maz-
zard or wild European stock, though the Mahaleb or per-
fumed cherry stock, is far better here. Our common Mo-
rello seems to do better for stocks here, than the Mazzard.
If grafted, it must be done very early in the spring, as
well as all other stone fruits. Cherry trees must be eut
back so low when planted, that they will throw out
branches within eight or ten inches of the soil, in order to
shade the roots and trunk; then keep them shortened-in,
like the peach. Without this mode of training, it is use-
less for us to plant the finer varieties, as the sun will kill
them by scorching the bark. ‘They should be planted in
a cool situation, as the north side of a building, or on any
northern exposure, where they will be screened from the
mid-day sun, as the young fruit is liable to blight from
heat, as well as the tree to be injured,

If caterpillars, or insects of any kind attack the foliage,
they must be exterminated by some of the modes given
under the head of insects. The bug is best destroyed by
throwing ashes or lime up among the leaves, or syring-
ing with soap and tobacco.

After the cherry arrives at maturity, the finer kinds are
generally stolen by the birds, against which, powder and
shot is the most effectual remedy. Dwarf trees may be
protected by nets. .

It is not probable that the cherry -will be very success-
fully cultivated in the South, until we have varieties
raised here from seed, that are adapted to our wants.
Cherry seed should be planted immediately, because if
they become dry, they seldom grow.

Of the varieties described below, the Elton, May Duke,
and common Morello, have borne fine crops here. The
Kentish, Late Kentish, Belle Magnifique, Reine Hortenso,
and English Morello, will probably prove as hardy as

THE CHERRY. 825

the common Morello; while Downer’s Late, Kirtland’s
Mary. Gov. Wood and Rockport Bigarrean, are American
seedlings, and with the Black Heart, are likely to suc-
ceed as well as the Elton. Time of ripening can be given
only of the Elton and May Duke. The Duke and Mo-
rello cherries are the hardiest in our climate.

May Duke.—Fruit, roundish, medial size and in clusters ;
skin lively red at first, dark red when ripe. Flesh, red-
dish, tender, melting, very juicy, rich and excellent when
fully ripe. Ripens early in May. The best for this climate.

Doctor.—A heart cherry, small, roundish, heart-shape,
distinct suture, bright yellow and red blended and mot-

‘tled. Flesh, white, tender and juicy, with a sweet de-
lightful flavor. Worthy of trial here.

Rockport Bigarrean.—Very large, heart-shaped; color,
deep red on amber ground; flesh, yellowish, fine, juicy,
with a sweet, rich flavor.

Elton.—Very large; acute, heart-shaped ; skin, thin,
pale yellow, with a cheek mottled with bright red; stalk,
long and slender; flesh, firm at first, becoming tender, juicy,
with a rich, luscious flavor. Has produced good crops
here, in a northern exposure, the past two seasons
(1852-3). Ripens May 10th to 20th.

Kentish —Fruit, small to medium, round, a little flat-
tened, borne in pairs; skin, fine bright red, growing
dark when fully ripe; stalk, one and a fourth inches long,
stoutly set in pretty deep hollow; flesh, melting, juicy
and of a rich, acid, sprightly flavor. A hardy sort and
excellent for cooking, &c.

Late Kentish —Resembles the above, but is two weeks
later, a little larger and excellent for cooking, preserving.
and drying.

Kirtland’s Mnary—Very large, roundish heart-shaped,

826 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

light and dark red marbled on a yellow ground; stalk,
moderate size; flesh, light yellow, half tender, rich, juicy,
with a sweet, high flavor.

Black Heart—-Large, heart-shaped; skin, glossy, dark
purple, changing to black when ripe; stalk, one inch and
a half long, in a moderate cavity ; flesh, half tender, be:
coming, when ripe, tender and juicy, with a rich, sweet
flavor. A large, hardy tree.

Downer’s Late-—Fruit medium, roundish, heart-shaped,
inclining to oval; skin smooth, of a soft but lively red,
mottled with amber in the shade; stalk ina slight depres-
sion; fruit borne thickly in clusters; flesh tender,
melting, with a sweet, luscious flavor. Tree grows well
with me; has not borne yet.

Bell Magnifique-—A large, red cherry, rather acid, ten-
der, juicy, and rich; fine for cooking and for the table,
when fully ripe. Tree of slow growth, but bears pro-
fusely.

Reine Hortense—A new, French cherry, of great excel-
lence; large, bright red, tender, juicy, nearly sweet, and
delicious; tree vigorous; bears well. Has fruited since
the above was written. Excellent.

English Morello—Tolerably large, roundish, nearly
black; flesh reddish purple, tender, juicy, of a pleasant
sub-acid flavor. (The common Morello of this country is
a smaller and inferior variety of the foregoing. Ripens
May 25th.)

Plumstone Morello—tLarge, dark red, rich, and fine; the
best of all the Morellos. ‘Tree of slender, slow growth.

Most of the above have fruited at Pomaria, S. C., and
have proved excellent. See Southern Agriculturist, May,
1853.

THE ORANGE, 827

Citrus-—THE ORANGE FAMILY.
Citrus Awrantium—THE ORANGE.

The orange is a native of Asia. The rich, golden fruit
displayed among its dark, evergreen foliage, renders it the
most beautiful of fruit trees. The tree usually rises
twenty-five or thirty feet, with a round, symmetrical
head, the bark of the trunk being an ashy gray, while that
of the twigs is a soft green. ‘The leaves are of a fine,
healthy, shining green; its blossoms are delicately fra-
grant, with an aroma that never satiates or offends; and
as the tree is in all stages of bearing at one and the same
time in flower and in golden fruit, nothing can surpass an
orange grove in the combination of attractions.

Wild or bitter oranges are found in the various parts of
Florida, as far north as 28°. Where they are found, a
good soil is indicated. It may have originated from the
Seville orange, introduced by the Spaniards. The orange
is considerably cultivated in Florida, and somewhat on the
sea-coast of Carolina and Georgia.

It has been analyzed by Rowny and How. Like other
fruit trees, it requires a soil well supplied with lime,
potash, and the phosphates.

ROOT. STEM, LEAVES. FRUIT. SEED.
Potassa, . ; . 15.43 11.69 16.51 36.42 40.28
Soda, . s Ps 4,52 3.07 1.68 11.42 0.92
Dine, ... : My VAOLO Oe nM Wan ONO. 2 4a ed eel c
Magnesia, . eet. Ott Oe) VOek on. : OOO Beak
Sesquioxide of Iron, 1.02 0.57 0.52 0.46 0.80
Sulphuric Acid, ‘ 5.78 4.64 4,43 3.74 5.10
Silicie Acid, : oh OO ABS: at Odes alee
Phosphoric NGI oo hoa. . 17.09 Beek LT Oe Bene

Chloride of Sodium, 1.18 0.25 ° 6.66 3.87. 0.82

ee 0 ee tm ee

199.95 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00
Per-centage of ash, 4.48 2.74 13.73 3.94 3.30

328 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

The orange seems to demand a calcareous soil. Lime
would, doubtless, prove a beneficial application in most
localities.

The best soil for the orange is a deep, fertile loam. The
seeds of the wild orange give the hardiest stock. They
should be sown early in spring, and may be budded the
same season, or early in the next. They may also be
whip-grafted in the spring, just before the time the sap
comes into brisk motion. The hardiest kinds should be
selected for open air culture.

The scale insect (Coccus Hisperidum) and others have,
of late years, proved aformidable enemy to the extended
culture of the orange. The female insects, in spring, are
found in a lifeless state, from which the eggs being hatched
by the warmth of the season, the young insects crawl forth,
puncturing the tender shoots and leaves, and sucking their
sap;they gradually increase in size, and in about eight
days permanently attach themselves to the trunk and
branches to undergo their transformations. During the
summer, all the young leaves and branches become rapidly
and successively covered with the scales of these insects,
of which there are successive generations during the sea-
son. In the green-house, this insect is kept down by a
strong tobacco wash, heated to the temperature of 100 de-
grees Fahrenheit, and applied to the whole affected sur-
face. The warm liquid irritates the insect, so that it looses
its hold, permitting the fluid to enter between it and the
bark, by which means it is destroyed. Applied at ordi-
nary temperatures, tobacco water has no effect.* To be of
much benefit, the application must be universal.

Varveties—There are about forty serts of oranges culti-
vated, of two principal classes, viz., the Sweet or China
Orange, and the Butter, Seville or Wild Orange. The latter

= Burst.

THE ORANGE. 829

class is much the most hardy, but is of no value as a des-
sert fruit. They are used in cooking, and for flavoring
liquors.

Of the Sweet Oranges, the Maltese has a thick and
spongy rind, pulp red and delicious, but with sometimes a
trace of bitterness. The glands which secrete the oil are
prominent.

St. Michael’s—Small, with thin smooth rind, and small
glands; pulp, light colored and, of a luscious, sugary taste ;
often seedless. ‘The most delicious of all oranges.

Mandarin is a small flattened fruit, with a thin rind ©
parting freely from the pulp, frequently separating cf
itself ; pulp, dark orange, juicy and rich.

The Havana, or common sweet orange, is a well known
fruit, of good size, and moderately rough rind; pulp well
filled with delicious juice.

The St. Augustine Oranges, are a large variety of the
Hayana, much better than those brought from Cuba.

Bergamct—Has small flowers and pear-shaped fruit.
The leaves, fruit, and flowers are all very fragrant, and
much used by perfumers.

The following varieties of the orange tribe are cultivated
in the same manner.

Citrus Limonum ( The Lemon) —Is cultivated like the
orange, but has longer, lighter, colored leaves, with naked
footstalks; flowers tinged with red, externally; fruit,
pale yellow, oblong, with a swollen point, and an acid
pulp. Used mostly fox flavoring and preparing lemonade,
and other cooling drinks.

Citrus Lametia ( The Lame).—Has smaller flowers than
the lemon, which are white, and small, roundish, pale
yellow fruit, with a slight protuberance at the end. The
fruit is acid, and used for the same purposes as the lemon.
The green fruit makes a delicate preserve.

830 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

C. Medica (The Citron), has large, oblong, wingless
leaves, and flowers tinged with purple without. The fruit is
lemon-shaped, but larger, with warts and furrows. Rind,
thick and fragrant; pulp, sub-acid. Chiefly used for
preserves.

C. Decumana, or Shaddock, has leaves winged like the
orange ; flowers, white; fruit, globular and very large,
weighing often six or eight pounds; rind very thick ; pulp,
sweetish or sub-acid, but not very desirable, except for its
showy appearance.

Cydonia Communis—QUINCE.

The quince is a small hardy tree, seldom growing over
twelve or fifteen feet high, thickly branched, with roundish
or ovate leaves, whitish underneath, on short petioles; the
flowers which open late are white, or pale pink; and the
fruit appears on shoots of the same years growth, vary-
ing in shape, but having a general resemblance to the
apple and pear. It is when ripe, highly fragrant, and of
a fine golden yellow, making the tree quite ornamental.

Quinces are seldom eaten raw ; but for stewing, presery-
ing, marmalades, or in pies and tarts along with apples,
they are much esteemed. They are, also dried for winter
use, giving an excellent flavor to dried apples and peaches.
For these purposes the quince has been long in cultiyation,
having been in great esteem by the Greeks and Romans.
The mucilage from the seeds was formerly used in
medicine, instead of gum-water. - The juice-is cooling,
astringent and stomachic.

The quince is propagated from seed, layers, slips, or
cuttings. The latter planted in autumn, in a shady situa-
tion, very seldom fail, and are not as liable to throw out
suckers as those raised from suckers and slips. Quinces
generally produce the same from seed, but occasionally vary.

THE QUINCE. 381

Quince stocks are very much used for budding and
grafting the pear, for which the Angers Quince is pre-
ferable, being easily raised from cuttings or layers. The
other kinds are of less vigorous growth, and more short-
lived. I have not been able to find an analysis of the
quince. A large amount of soda and chlorine, will pro-
bably be the chief difference between it and those of the
apple and pear.

The quince likes a deep, light, moist soil, and a cool ex-
posure, growing naturally on the banks of streams. It
will, however, succeed in a rich, deep, dry soil; trenching
will afford a due supply of moisture. No tree is more
benefited by manuring, especially with vegetable matters.
Salt is a very beneficial application every winter—minis-
tering to the growth of the tree directly, and by keeping
the soil always moist. If applied occasionally during the
summer, in small doses, at a distance from the stem, the
fruit will not drop. It will bear an application annually
of ten bushels per acre. Plant the trees ten feet apart.

The quince is slightly subject to the blight, like the
pear and apple, and is also attacked by the borer, which
infests the apple; the blighted branches must be cut off
and burned as with the pear. The borer must be dug out
as directed under the head of Insects.

In training, the best fruit is obtained from those trained
in tree form; but on account of the borer, it is best to use
the bush form, with three or four main stems (not more),
so if one is destroyed, there are others left to take its
place. Thus trained, the bush should be pruned moder-
ately open, or the fruit will be inferior. If there is an
over-crop, the fruit must be thinned. Trees will com-
mence bearing in two or three years.

Varieties—Apple-shaped, or Orange. This is the com-
mon variety, with large roundish, or apple-shaped fruit,

332 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

with a short neck; skin light, golden yellow; flesh firm,
but stewing tender ; leaves oval, shoots slender. It bears
abundantly. Larlier than the other sorts.

Pear-shaped.—F ruit of larger size, pyriform; oblong,
tapering to the stalk; skin, yellow; flesh of firmer tex-
ture, when preserved, and not quite so good in flavor and
color as the foregoing; fruit ripens a fortnight later, and
when picked, keeps much longer; leaves, oblong, ovate.
Tree of more vigorous growth, but does not bear so well.

Portugal (Cydoma lusitanica).—F ruit still more oblong,
of lighter color, milder flavor, and better quality than the
preceding kinds; leaf, larger and broader; shoots stouter;
ripens between the other two; a shy bearer. Pretty
good as a stock for the pear. Tree larger than the other
varieties. :

Angers.—A variety of the last, the strongest grower of
all the quinces, and best for pear stocks. The fruit is
said to be larger and better than any other kind.

The Chinese and Japan quinces are fine ornamental
shrubs. ;

Ficus Carwa—F ie.

The fig is a large shrub, or a low spreading tree—some
varieties growing to the height of twenty-five, or thirty
feet, in favorable circumstances; but it does not generally
reach over half this height. ‘The leaves are large, cordate,
and deeply cut, from three to five lobed, thick, and pubes-
cent beneath. The blossoms are not apparent, but con-
cealed in the inside of the fleshy receptacle that becomes
the fruit; which consists of a pulp, containing numerous
pericarps enclosed in a rind, various colored in the dif
ferent varieties. Though the flavor at first is too sweet and
luscious for most unaccustomed tastes, it soon becomes a
great favorite, and is perhaps the most wholesome and
nutritious of all fruits.

Ay a Se ee ee

THE FIG. Sag

The fig is a native of Asia and Africa, and has been
cultivated from the earliest times. It is perfectly at home
in all the low country and middle portions of the South,
and as universally cultivated below the mountain section
as the peach itself.

Large quantities of dried figs are imported into the
United States, and even sold in our midst. These at a
very little expense could be put up at home and exported
at a profit. A good way to dry them, is to gather them
dead ripe; when dry, boil them in a preserving kettle in
a syrup of nice sugar, about five minutes. Take then out,
drain them dry in a brick oven, after the bread is with-
drawn, or in a kiln made for drying fruits; when dry,
they can be put away in drums or boxes.

Imported figs are dipped in a hot lye made of fig ashes,
and dried on hurdles in the sun. When sun-dried here,
they are apt to be infested with insects. The fig is worth
culture for feeding fowls, pigs, &c. |

The fig is readily propagated by cuttings either of the
shoots or roots, planted in the fall or spring. Suckers also
can be taken off the old plants, or layers made. Cuttings
should be eight or ten inches long, and include half an
inch of old wood at the base of each. Planted in hot beds
in January, they will form handsome plants the same
season.

Figs should be set out twelve or fifteen feet apart, and
the winter after planting, they may be cut nearly to the
ground. The next year, they will throw up vigorous
shoots, of which one or more may be retained, and the rest
rubbed off. The Celestial Fig is best trained as a low
tree.

Analysis—The following analysis of the ashes of the
fruit of the fig is by Richardson. I have met with none
of the tree itself :—

Go2- GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Potassa; > s é . - ; . 28.36
Soda, . ; : z , ~~
Lime, : “ : : ; faa

Magnesia, : : : n 9.11
Sulphuric Acid, f t j Rae Fe is
Silic Acid, . : 5.93

Phosphate of Sesquioxide of nau hee
Chloride of Sodium, : : : 4.02

100.06

The best soil for the fig is a mellow loam, of a calcareous
nature. Ashes, marl, or composts, prepared with mild
lime, form the best manure. If the soil is too moist, the
fig continues its growth too late in the season, when the
new wood is killed by the frost. While young,it is best to
protect the tree during winter with evergreens. I have
found young trees will mature their fruit and wood much
more perfectly, and better endure the winter, if the young
shoots are broken off at the tips, and if all fruit forming
after that is removed, and no more growth permitted, after
the middle of September. As a general rule, however,
with the fig, “the more you prune, the less your crop.”
This, however, does not apply to root pruning. If from
too rank growth of wood the tree drops its fruit, cut off all
the roots that project more than half the length of the
branches at any time during the winter. Root pruning
can also be applied with success to the pear or any other fruit
tree, rendered unfruitful by too luxuriant growth of wood.

The nomenclature of figs is still very uncertain, few
being described with minuteness and accuracy. The
names of several of our common varieties do not appear in
the books; or they are there so imperfectly described, that
we do not recognise them. r%

Brunswick —F ruit very large, long, pyriform, with an
oblique apex; eye depressed; stalk short and thick;

THE FIG. DOD

skin pale green, tinged with yellow in the shade; dull,
brownish red in the sun, sprinkled with pale brown specks,
flesh reddish brown, pinkish at the centre, semi-transpa-
rent, rich, sweet, and high-flavored. If I have the true
variety, the leaves are deeply cut, and generally seven-
lobed. Wood of strong growth; very hardy; indispensable.

Brown Turkey—Fruit large, oblong or pyriform; skin
dark brown, covered with a thick blue bloom; flesh red
and delicious; said to be very hardy and prolific. May
be our common blue variety. My tree, procured under
this name, proves to be the Brunswick.

Brown Ischia —F ruit medium or large, roundish, obovate ;
skin chestnut brown; flesh purple, sweet and excellent ;
five lobed, leaves broad.

Small Brown Ischia—Fruit small, pyriform, with a short
footstalk ; skin light brown; flesh inclining to purple; high-
flavored; leaves less divided than the other sorts. This
and the Brown Turkey are generally considered the
hardiest varieties.

Black Genoa—Fruit large, long, obovate, tapering to
the stalk, which is slender; skin almost black, glossy,
covered with purple bloom; pulp bright red, of excellent
flavor. Continuing to bear fruit abundantly until frost.
Leaflets narrow, and leaf seven-lobed like the Brunswick.
Indispensable.

Celestial —Fruit quite small, pyriform; stalk slender,
skin very thin, dark-colored, covered with purple bloom ;
pulp light red, and of very delicious flavor. In dry weather,
it hangs on the tree until it shrivels, improving in sweet-
ness and flavor. ‘Trees grow quite large, and are very
productive, yielding constantly from July to October,
Leaves five-lobed. May prove the Malta of Downing and
others. As hardy as any variety cultivated, and probably
the best. :

536 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. |

The Common Blue is rather inferior in flavor to the fore-
going; but it is very hardy and productive. Fruit large,
oblong, bluish purple; early, and produces two crops.

WHITE, YELLOW, OR GREEN

Round White, Common White, Lemon Fig. (Figure
Blanche Roudo.)—Fruit turbinate, flattened; stalk short;
skin pale, yellowish green; flesh white and sweet, not
high-flavored. Ripens quite early ; is a good bearer. Its
color renders it very valuable for preserves.

White Genoa (White Itahan)—Fruit large, globular,
a little lengthened to the stalk; skin thin, yellowish when
ripe; pulp light red, and of sweet, delicious flavor. If
protected, the fruit is the first to ripen. A good bearer
here. Indispensable.

Nerii—F ruit small, roundish, obovate ; skin light, green-
ish yellow; pulp red, slightly acid, delicate, and rich. Has
borne here some years, and is a very nice little fig.

Pregussatta—This is really a colored fig; but being |
omitted in its place, I will.describe it here, where it is usu-
ally but incorrectly placed. Fruit medium, roundish, flat-
tened; skin purplish brown in the shade, dark brown in
the sun; pulp deep red, high-flavored, and luscious.

Alicante-—A very large and delicious purple fig, bear-
ing early in the season abundantly, until frost, in the low
country, but not suited to this latitude, as it is more ten-
der than those described.

Black Ischia and White Ischia are said to be good. The
above list I know are. The White Marsailles, Gentile,
and Yellow Ischia are worthless; the first from inferior
fruit—the others are poor bearers.

Fragaria (of Species) STRAWBERRY.
The strawberry is a well known small, creeping plant,
with perennial roots, and generally ternate leaves. Its

THE STRAWBERRY. 337

botanical name is derived from the delightful fragrance of
the ripe fruit. Its common name, strawberry, has arisen
from the ancient practice of laying straw between the
roots to keep the ground moist, and the fruit clean. This
fruit is fragrant, delicious, and universally esteemed. The
first offering of the season in the way of ripe fruit, nothing
that comes after can excel “a dish of ripe strawberries
smothered in cream,” or eaten fresh from the plant. It is,
indeed, the most popular and wholesome of all the small
fruits consisting of matter almost entirely soluble in the
stomach, and neither there, nor when rotting in heaps, does
it undergo the acetous fermentation. Hence, it is very
wholesome, and may be safely eaten by gouty and rheu-
matic persons. Besides its grateful flavor, the subacid
juice has a cooling quality, peculiarly acceptable in sum-
mer. When taken in even large quantities, there are few
constitutions with which they disagree; and, indeed, they
are positively salutary in cases of the gout and stone.
They promote perspiration, and also remove the tartareous
incrustation of the teeth. In addition to its excellence for
the dessert, it is a favorite fruit for making jams, ices, jel-
lies, and preserves.

The English Wood strawberry was the first brought into
cultivation. Says old Tusser:—

‘ Wife, into the garden and set me a plot
With strawberry plants the best to be got,
Such growing abroad amid trees of the wood,
Well chosen and picked, prove excellent good.’’

Turning over its cultivation to the ladies, as beneath his
attention.

The best varieties now cultivated have originated from
the Scarlets and Pines, which are natives of America.
Plants taken directly from the field into the garden yield

15

$38 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

at once a tolerable crop. This climate is well adapted te
the culture of this fruit ; since by giving the plants a due
supply of moisture, fruit can be gathered the greater part
of the year. The great strawberry market of the world is
Cincinnati, where over five thousand bushels have been
sold in one season. But Mr. Peabody, of Columbus, in
this State, is probably the most successful of strawberry
growers, having fruit in the open ground sometimes nine
months in the year.

3, PISTILLATE. ¢, HERMAPHRODITE,

In its natural state, the strawberry generally produces
perfect or hermaphrodite blossoms. The hermaphrodite
are those which have both the stamens perfect, and the
pistils so well developed, as to produce a tolerably fair
crop of fruit. Cultivation has so affected the strawberry,
in this respect, that there are now three classes of varie-
ties :—1st. Those in which the male or staminate organs
are always perfect, like a, in the figure; but the female or
pistillate organs are so defective, that they will very rarely
bear a perfect fruit. These are called staminate. 2d.
Those in which the female or pistillate organs are perfect,
(see b, in figure,) but in which the male organs are gener-
ally so defective that they cannot produce fruit at all, un-
less in the neighborhood of, and fertilized by staminate or
hermaphrodite plants. Impregnated by these, they bear
enormous crops. These are pistillate. 3d. (See figure c.)
Those, like the native varieties, which are true herma-
phrodites, that is, they are perfect in stamens, and more

ANALYSIS OF THE STRAWBERRY. 3889

or less perfect in pistils, so that they generally produce
a tolerable crop, and in favorable seasons, the pistils being
fully developed, they will produce a good one. ‘This is
the staminate class of the books. 'The first of these classes,
the staminate, rarely producing fruit, and running exuber-
antly to vine, should be dug up wherever they are found,
since the hermaphrodite are productive, and equally use-
ful for fertilizing. It is to the pistillate varieties, fertilized
by the hermaphrodite, that we must look for large crops
of fruit.

In beds of each of these varieties, seedlings will spring
up, differing from the parents; but runners from any va-
riety, will always produce flowers of the same class, and
similar in all respects to the parent plant. By the due
admixture of hermaphrodite and pistillate plants, five .
thousand quarts have been picked from an acre at Cincin-
nati, where the strawberry season is usually less than a
month.

Analysis-—The bg: has been analyzed by Rich-

ardson :—

FRUIT, PLANT,
Potassa, : : § Ie oO.oe
Soda, : ; - : 27.01 O27
Lime, . . : é go ele eat +1220
Magnesia, . sittt 3 a trace 5.85
Sulphuric Acid, Ho viengiel oa LO 5.89
Silicic Sl : ; 12.05 2.08 |
Phosphoric “ 8.59 15.58

Phos. of Sesquioxide of Iron, po eal 8.65
Chloride of Sodium, . U7 O78 1.23

Per-centage of ash, : Oat 0.39

Potash, soda, and phosphoric acid are the elements most
likely to be wanting. Wood ashes and the carbonates of
potash and soda, prove very beneficial applications. ‘The

340 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

good effects of applying the phosphates or lime, has not
been so apparent, perhaps, owing to there being enough
already in the soil.

Propagation and Culture Za raise the strawberry in
perfection, requires good varieties, a proper location, care-
ful cultivation, vegetable manure, mulching the roots, and
regular watering. |

We shall notice the varieties hereafter. The straw-
berry bed should be situated in the lowest part of the gar-
den, succeeding best on a bottom near some little stream
of water, where the soil is moist and cool. No trees or
plants should be allowed to overshadow it, to drink up the
moisture of the soil. New land is the best and the most
easily kept free from weeds. The soil should be dug at
least two spades deep, to enable the plants better to with-
stand drought. It is not required to be rich, unless with
decayed vegetable matter, as animal manures produce
only a growth of vine.

Ifthe soil is poor, give it a thick coat of swamp muck ;
or wood’s earth, and leached or unleached ashes, which
must be turned under. After the soil is prepared and
levelled, mark off your rows two feet apart. Plant there-
on, selecting the young, healthy runners from old stocks,
three rows of pistillates, then a path, then a row of a good
hermaphrodites, another path, and then six rows of pistil-
lates, and so on until the ground is planted. Let the
plants be fifteen or eighteen inches asunder. Choose
damp weather for the operation of transplanting. The
roots of the plant must be well spread out just as they
grow; when transplanted, set them firmly and wash them
in with water like sweet potato slips, if the ground is not
moist. Cover the space between the plants, but not the
plants themselves, with a thin mulching of partially de-
composed leaves, straw, or decayed tan—the latter is ex-

THE STRAWBERRY. 841

cellent. As the runners appear, unless desired to make
new beds, they should be cut off—not pulled, which dis-
turbs the roots. As soon as the blossoms begin to appear,
the great necessity is water. Unless it rains twice a
week, give water by hand, water to swell the fruit, and
water to form new fruit stems. In this way, Mr. Pea-
body has crops of Hovey’s Seedling, from March until
hard frosts. Kill all grass and weeds as fast as they ap-
pear, with the hoe. After the plants have done fruiting,
let the beds remain until winter, when they should be
well hoed, thinned out to twelve or eighteen inches in the
row, the cut-up vines dug in, and a new coat of leaves,
straw, muck or decayed tan given the whole bed, except
the crowns of the plants. Keep the proportion of male
and female plants, the same as when planted. <A very
easy way to get a good spring crop is by cultivating in
alternate strips. Prepare your soil as before, strike out
the rows three feet apart, and plant eighteen inches apart
in the row, giving a due proportion of the different sexes
as before; let these runners fill up every alternate section
of three feet, keeping the other bare, by destroying all
runners, and the whole patch free from weeds. The strips
of runners will give a heavy crop of fruit, and the open
strip will serve for a path while gathering them. After
the fruit season is over, dig and prepare this alley for the
occupation of new runners for the next crop; dig in plenty
of decayed tan, swamp-earth, or leaf-mould, trench two
spades deep. The runners from adjacent vines will soon
cover this strip. The plants will need thinning in order
to be evenly distributed. When the strips are well cov-
ered, which they will be by August, dig under the old
plants, and add a light coat of manure. Here a crop of
turnips or spinach may be raised and removed before the
next fruit season. By thus changing each season the

342 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

strips occupied by the plants, the same plot of ground
will remain productive many years. ‘To produce supe-
rior crops, in this mode as well as the former, liberal water-
ing is required.

VARIETIES.—As the season of this fruit, with the ex-
ception of Large Early Scarlet and Hovey’s Seedling, is
very short, but few varieties are required. Having tried
Hovey’s Seedling, Boston Pine, Hudson, Burr’s New Pine,
Moyamensing, Rival Hudson, Black Prince, Cuthill’s Black
Prince, Bishop’s Orange, Longworth’s Prolific, British
Queen, McAvoy’s Superior, Walker’s Seedling, Buist’s
Prize, English Red, White Wood, and several others. Of
these I have selected for my own grounds the following
‘rarieties, as decidedly the most desirable :—

Large Early Scarlet.—An American variety. Fruit
pretty large, roundish, ovate, regular, light scarlet, seeds
deeply imbedded; flesh tender, and of a rich excellent
flavor, leaves broad, deep green, flowers large and perfect.
The most valuable Hermaphrodite variety. It will stand
dry weather better than most varieties; bears well; ina
bed of pistillates it is easily distinguished by its foliage.

Bishop’s Orange.—Fruit light scarlet, somewhat ap-
proaching orange, of large size; shape conical, regular,
borne in large clusters lying on the surface; flesh firm
and of high flavor. <A fine bearer and a favorite with me,
requires but little care. In flavor, excellent; flowers
pistillate.

Hovey’s Seedliing.— When we consider the size, flavor,
and its habit of long-continued bearing where well cul-
tivated, this is the finest of strawberries. Like all the
pistillate varieties, it needs a fertilizer. It is the best
market strawberry known, and when fully ripened, it is
excelled in flavor by few varieties. Leaves large, bright
green, foot-stalks long and erect; fruit very large, round-

ee

Br gz »
Pee Ae Seed te

THE STRAWBERRY 343

ish, oval or slightly conical, deep shining scarlet, seeds
slightly imbedded; flesh firm, with a rich agreeable flavor,
nearly equal to Bishop’s Orange. Pistillate, originated by
C. M. Hovey, of Boston.

Burr's New Pine.— Large light orange scarlet, always
of the highest and most delicious flavor. With me it often
shows fruit most of the season; but so far it is not suffici-
ently productive, and it lacks the hardiness of the forego-
ing varieties. Plants seem to be easily killed by extremes
of heat or cold. The hardiness and productiveness of
Hovey’s Seedling would render this the most desirable
of strawberries. Needs further trial.

McAvoy’s Superior.—This won a prize of $100 at Cin-
cinnati, as the best pistillate variety for size, flavor, and
fruitfulness. Leaf dark green, serrate; foot-stalk long,
trusses of fruit, full; berry large of rich dark color, irregular,
roundish conical, seeds large slightly sunk ; flesh crimson
and white, tender and juicy, core of rather open, coarse
texture, too soft for market. With me not as desirable as
Hovey or Moyamensing.

Moyamensing.—Fruit rather large, roundish, conical,
deep crimson ; seeds crimson set in rather deep depressions,
with rounded intervals; flesh red, flower very fine, qual-
ity “best,” pistillate ; leaf large with creuate serratures.
This is first rate with me in every respect, a capital mar-
ket fruit from its firm texture. — ,

Of these the first, second, third, and sixth, are most
desirable. Walker’s Seedling, a staminate variety, pro-
mises well. McAvoy’s Extra Red will probably prove a
good market fruit. Boston Pine occasionally bears well,
and is of excellent quality. Crescent Seedling proves here
nothing remarkable. Longworth’s Prolific I have tried
but one season, when it did not do very well, but may
prove a good sort.

344 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Morus—MULBERRY.

This genus includes two species worthy of cultivation
on account of their fruit, both hardy deciduous trees, rip-
ening their berries in May, with the later strawberries. ©
The fruit is of very agreeable flavor, and of abundant sub-
acid juice. It is cooling, laxative, and wholesome for,
like the strawberry, it does not undergo the acetous fer-
mentation. An agreeable wine may be made of the juice.

All the species of the mulberry are of the easiest culture,
and are generally propagated by cuttings of the branches or
roots. The former should be shoots of the last season,
having one joint of old wood; they may be three feet
long, and buried half their depth in the soil. The tree
requires little or no pruning. The soil should be a rich,
deep, sandy loam. The fruit falls when ripe, hence, when
the tree commences bearing, the surface below should be
_ kept in short turf, that the fruit may be pickled from the
clean grass. The black mulberry, morus nigra, is a na-
tive of Persia, and is a slow-growing, low-branched tree,
with large, tough leaves, often five-lobed, producing large
and delicious fruit, frequently an inch and a half long,
and an inch across; black and fine-flavored. Tree a very
poor grower.

Morus Ruba—lIs a native of our woods; leaves large,
rough, and generally heart-shaped; fruit an inch long,
sweet and pleasant, but much inferior to the last. The
vigorous growth and fine spreading head of this species,
makes it deserving of culture as an ornamental tree. If
the cherry is planted near the house, and the mulberry a
little more remote, the latter will often attract the birds
from the more valuable fruit. There is an everbearing
variety of this, very desirable for affording a succession
of fruit until frost. Mr. Charles Downing has also another
variety, said to be nearly equal to the black in flavor.

ANALYSIS OF THE OLIVE. 845

The varieties of the white mulberry produce fruit of no
value, and are only cultivated for the silk worm.

Olea Europea—OLiveE.

The olive is a low, branching evergreen tree, rising to
the height of twenty or thirty feet, with stiff, narrow,
bluish-green leaves. The fruit is a berried drupe, of ob-
long, spheroidal form; hard, thick flesh, of a yellowish-
green color, turning black when ripe. ‘The tree is a
native of Greece and the sea-coast ridges of Asia and
Africa; it has been cultivated from time immemorial for
the oil expressed from its ripe fruit. Where cultivated,
it answers all the purposes of cream and butter, and en-
ters into every kind of cookery. Unripe olives are much
used as pickles, which, though distasteful at first, to most
persons, become by custom exceedingly grateful, promot-
ing digestion and increasing appetite. The ripe olive is
erushed to a paste, when the oil is expressed through
coarse, hempen bags into hot water, from which the pure
oil is skimmed off. If the stone is crushed, the oil is infe-
rior.

Muller has analysed the various parts of the olive tree :

wood LEAVES, FRUIT
Potassa, : : 20:60) 2 24:81). 3.54.03
Lime, \ A e) Oo.02 06.18 15.72
Magnesia, . : ate 5.18 4.38
Sulphuric Acid, LE BO9 3.01 1.19
Silica, : 3 3.82 3.75 5.58
Phosphoric “ . Aad 3.24 7.30
Phos. of Sesquioxide 1.39 1.07 294
of Iron,

Chloride of Potassium, 1.00 2.16 9.56

100.00 100.00 100.00

Per-centage of Ashin
the dry substancé oe eo
Per-centage of Ash in |
the fresh substance, 49

15*

846 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Lime and potash are the chief sorts the olive requires
in the soil. |

Propagation and Culture—Olive plantations are gener-
ally formed from the rooted suckers which rise abund-
antly from the roots of old trees. It also grows readily
from cuttings and seeds. Knots and tumors form on the
bark of the trunk, which, being removed with a knife, are
planted like bulbs, an inch or two deep, when they take
root and become new trees. The cultivated olive may,
perhaps, also be grafted on our Olea Americana, or Devil
Wood, which abounds on the seacoast. ‘The best trees
are from seedlings, which commence bearing in five or six
years, but are not remunerative until ten or twelve years
old. The trees produce about fifteen or twenty pounds
of oil per year, and their longevity is greater than any
other fruit tree. The olive is hardier than the orange, but
is most hardy and prolific when grown on a dry calcareous
sandy or rocky situation. Such situations on the steep
cliffs of the Mediterranean, planted with olives in the dry
crevices of the rock, afford abundant and prolific crops.
It grows more luxuriantly in strong, rich, clayey loam;
but in such situations will not endure so great an extreme
of cold. The dry limestone soils of Florida would proba-
bly become exceedingly valuable if planted with the olive.
It should be tried wherever the orange will survive the
winter. In planting,the trees are usually set thirty-five
or forty feet apart.

VARIETIES.—Of the many varieties of the catalogues,
the following are described in the French “Bon Jardi-
nier,’’ as the hardiest and best.

Olea Angulosa-~—A hardy variety with scanty foliage ;
fruit reddish, with a long stem. It is preserved in some
places. ‘ Oil of medium quality,’ says Gouan, but very
good according to others.

THE PLUM. 3 347

Oiea Amygdalina.—The variety most commonly culti-
vated. Fruit almond-shaped; it is often pickled. Its oil
is very sweet.

Olea Cranimorpha, or Weeping Olive-—The largest and
finest tree of the genera; branches bending towards the
earth; very productive; fruit small, crooked, pointed,
very black; stone sharp at both ends; excellent; oil pure
and abundant.

Olea Spherica.—Fruit more round than any other va-
riety. Oil delicate, and yield abundant.

Olea Oblonga (from Olivier Picoline)—Fruit best for
pickling ; oil fine and sweet; produced abundantly. Tree
hardy.

Prunus Domestica, etc—PLuUM.

The plum-tree is probably a native of Asia, whence it
was early introduced into European gardens. ‘The tree
grows some fifteen feet high or more, and is conspicuous
early in spring, with its white blossoms. London asserts,
that it is probable that the natural color of the fruit is
black ; but the cultivated varieties are of the various shades
of green, yellow, red, and blue. It is a delicious dessert
fruit in its best varieties, and is very much esteemed for
pies, tarts, and preserves. It is also dried for winter use.
The prune or dried plum, enters considerably into com-.
merce. When fully ripe; and the plum should always be
allowed to become perfectly matured before eating; they
are, in moderate quantity, very nutritious and wholesome ;
but in an unripe state, are more apt to disagree with the
stomach than most other fruits, producing cholic, diarrhea,
and cholera morbus. Medicinally, they are emollient,
cooling, and laxative ; and, especially in the case of French
prunes, are useful for persons of costive habits.

Prunes are generally dried by artificial heat. They are

348 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

laid singly, without touching each other, on plates which
are placed in ovens after the bread is removed, or in kilns
prepared for the purpose, and occasionally moved and:
turned. In order to have them fair and glossy, they must
be suddenly cooled when taken from the oven. If deprived
of their skin and stone,-they are called prunettes—the
stone is pressed out the stem end—the skin is taken out
by pouring hot water over them. They should be dried
carefully and gradually. They are also excellent when
dried with sugar, as directed in the case of peaches.

The following analysis of the plum is by Salisbury :—

Proportions,

J OE
Bark of {Wood oi; Bark oi ) Wood of
Root. Root. | Limbs, | Limbs.

Per-centage water,. occ .cs\eilee olewes 48.51| 44.64) 27.50} 20.23
Per-centage dry-wood,...........-e02- 51.49} 55.86) 72.50) 79.67
Rerscentase asl. fo. te es ce eee 8.12) 024) 4.87| 0.38
j Analysis.
FS Plum | Bark ot Wood of |Bark ot ) Wood of
; Pits.# Root. Root. Limbs. | Limbs,
Polsshe2 Pn Oe 13.92 9.86 ( 8.59} 11.63
J SPOR; dn cemisbeisien os a eae 10.08 6.63} } 40.31 19.49

Chloride of Sodium,.....} 2.25 4.22 0.103 | 1.08 0.18
Sulphuric Acid, ........ 6.11 5.22} 4,64 4.09} 20.34
Carbonic Acidisi<hiscr
DMC SS. says pidterenes inet hs 23.80] - 22.741 0.17 39.42 8.12
Masmesiasic. cles Ne 4.80 0.98} 0.20 3.76 6.56
Phosph. Perox. of Iron, 6.90} 1.20 2.30 0.60
Phosphate of Lime..... 8.00 7.62} 31.98 7.50} 24.99
Phosph. of Magnesia,... 3.28) 17-12 trace 1.16
Organic matter,......... 6.65 IEG) 2250 1.40 4.60
Insoluble Silica,........ 27.20 21.40} 1.80 8.40] 0.70
Coal et, Jlrs MEL SS 3.60} 0.90 223) (CP Meee

102.31 94.21) 100.923 95.95! 80.58

The quantity of soda indicates the partiality of this tree
for common salt. Like other fruit trees, lime, potash, and
the phosphates are the chief special manures required.

# This analysis was made with two grains of ash.

THE PLUM. 349

Alth:ugh the quantity of silica is large, the plum is de-
cidedly better on a clayey soil. Any soil has sufficient
silex to supply the wants of the plant, so far as its
elements are concerned; but silex is probably not available,
unless ammonia is also present. Burnt clay, swamp muck,
common salt, and wood-ashes are among the best fer-
tilizers.

Propagation and Cultwre—The plum is generally bud- —
ded or grafted upon stocks raised from the seed of some
free-growing variety. The Chickasaw plum, however,
makes a very good stock. It should be grafted at the
collar, and planted so deeply that the scions can also
throw out roots. This stock makes very pretty dwarf
trees for the garden. By this mode the tree can be propa-
gated at any time during the winter months. Stone fruits
require to be grafted before or during the first flow of sap.
In transplanting to remain, plum trees should be twelve
feet apart. The best soil for the plum is a heavy loam.
moderately rich. In sandy soils the curculio is more prev-
alent. The fruit, too, is of better quality in a heavy soil.
In sandy soil clay should be applied to the surface.

There are three obstacles that have to be overcome to
raise the plum successfully. The first is the cureulio,
which infests all smooth-skinned stone-fruit. The only
really satisfactory mode of dealing with this insect, is ad-
mitting pigs and poultry into the fruit garden. It is better
not to raise plums at all, unless measures are taken to
destroy this insect; for, if allowed to increase, it will be-
come so abundant that the peaches and apples will also be
attacked. Another, and quite as serious a difficulty, is the
rot. ‘To prevent this, the varieties least subject to decay
must be selected and planted with the roots not too deep,
and the fruit should be so thinned upon the tree that no
two touch each other. The third obstacle to plum culture

. f
850 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH,

is, happily, not very prevalent in the south. It is a black
excrescence or tumor found growing upon the bark and
young wood. The bark swells and bursts, and finally
assumes the appearance of a “large, irregular lump, with
a-hard, cracked, uneven surface.” 'The flow of sap is ob-
structed by the tumor, and its poison is gradually dissem-
inated over the whole tree. The dark-colored fruits are
mostly infected. The disease also attacks the common
Morello cherry. It appeared here, for the first time, in the
year 1883, on a tree from the north. The tumor was very
small, and contained a worm within. None have appeared
since.

The only remedy is to cut off every branch or twig that
shows a tumor and burn it at once. Look over the trees
at least twice a year, and remove and burn every affected
branch. If on the large limbs, cut out the tumor deeply,
and apply with a brush a solution of chloride of lime.

As the plum is apt to throw out long straggling branches,
which are unsightly and unproductive, these should be
remedied by pinching, or shortening, so as to form a round
handsome head. Most stone fruits require shortening in
some degree, after the manner of the peach, or the growth
becomes too straggling. 7

VARIETIES.—Prunus Chicasa—CHICKASAW PLUM.

A tree or two of both the red and yellow varieties of this
our indigenous plum, should should be admitted into the
garden. The fruit is much enlarged by garden culture.
Some trees produce much better fruit than others. Leaves
lanceolate, more like the peach than the plumb ; branches
thorny; fruit small; skin either light, red, or yellow ; flesh
yellow, very juicy and sweet; but somewhat astringent
about the stone, to which it adheres. Ripe here 20th May ;
lasts a month. Doubtless many excellent native varieties

THE PLUM—vVARIETIES. 851

will be originated from this hardy native fruit. Some are
now found almost entirely free from astringency. This
plum seems free from curculio, and never fails of a crop.

The following are varieties of prunus domestica :—

Sea oo Early Purple—Ripens the 8th of June, and is
with us the earliest of cultivated plums. Fruit small,
roundish; skin brownish purple, with a scanty light-colored
bloom; flesh, greenish yellow, sweet, juicy, and parts
freely from the stone; highly perfumed. This nice little
plum was, I believe, first introduced here by some grafts
received from Germany. Has now borne some years;
maturing so early, it is one of the most valuable. I do not
find any description in the books with which it coincides.
It does not rot.

Prince’s Yellow-Gage—Fruit, medium size, broadest to-
wards the stalk ; suture slight ; skin golden yellow, slight-
ly clouded, and with copious white bloom; stalk an inch
long inserted ina small cavity; flesh, deep yellow, sweet,
juicy, and fine-flavored; free stone; tree very productive.
The fruit lasts a long time. One of the best for this
climate ; ripe, June 10th.

Columbia-——Very large, roundish ; skin brownish pur-
ple, with fawn colored specks; bloom, thick and blue;
stalk an inch long, stout, in 4 narrow cavity; flesh, orange,
not very juicy, sugary, rich and excellent; free stone, ripe,
June 20th. A magnificent variety of excellent quality.
Tree hardy and sufficiently productive.

Bingham—F ruit, large, oval; skin, deep yellow, spot-
ted with rich red toward the sun; stalk in a small cavity ;
flesh, yellow, juicy, rich and delicious; clingstone. ‘Tree
a fine grower and good bearer. Ripens July 1st.

Elfrey—Branches small; fruit of less than medium
size, oval; skin, blue; flesh, greenish, sweet, juicy and
excellent; freestone In this climate the Elfrey is one

352 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

of the most desirable plums. It generally escapes the
curculio and the rot also, if properly thinned. Tree,
thrifty and hardy. An indispensable variety. Ripe
July 1st.

Imperial Gage-—Fruit, above medium size, oval ; suture
distinct, pale green, tinged with yellow, and marbled with
dark green stripes, and covered with a copious white
bloom; stem an inch long, slightly sunk; flesh, green-
ish, melting, juicy, luscious, and almost too sugary;
mostly freestone. Ripens July Ist. Matures gradually for
a month—not much injured by curculio; but rots consid-
erably, unless the fruit is well thinned. A good bearer,
and a fine hardy tree.

Red Magnum Bonum, or Purple Egg.—Large and beau-
tiful. LEgg-shaped. Violet red, deeper in the sun, with
small gray dots; flesh, greenish, rather firm, juicy, and
agreeably subacid; freestone. A fair plum for the table,
and makes the very best of preserves. Ripens July 10th
Not much subject to rot. Indispensable.

Blue Plum. —A native plum generally raised from suck-
ers. Fruit, medium size, roundish, scarcely oval; suture
very obscure; skin dark blue, with a fine light blue
bloom; stalk three-eighths of an inch long, inserted in a
shallow cavity; flesh, yellowish green juicy, sweet, and
refreshing; adheres to the stone; shoots, smooth; leaves,
rather small. A very pleasant and agreeable plum, and
the tree is a fine bearer. Does not rot.

Jefferson —Fruit, of the largest size, roundish, oval ;
stalk, an inch long, pretty stout ; suture indistinct; skin,
golden yellow, purplish red towards the sun, and covered
thinly with white bloom; flesh, deep orange, a little
dry, good, not equal to the description in the books. But
as the tree bears abundantly, and the fruit ripens late,
hangs long on the tree, and is totally free from decay, i*

THE POMEGRANATE. 853

is indispensable. The handsomest of all plums. Ripens
last of July or first of August, and lasts a long time.

Besides the above, the St. Catharine, Italian Damask,
Bleeker’s Gage, and Duane’s Purple, do well here, but
are not equal to those described. Several varieties have
been tried here and rejected. ‘Those who wish a larger
collection, can select from the following, viz.: Peach,
Hudson’s Gage, Imperial Ottoman, Green Gage, Law-
rence’s Favorite, Red Gage, Purple Gage, Schenectady
Catherine, Huling’s Superb, Diapreé Rouge, Purple Fa-
vorite, Lombard, Coe’s Golden Drop, Blue Imperatrice,
Madison, Frost Gage, Ickworth Imperatrice and. Reine
Claude de Bavay—the latter has proved delicious this
season (1855), and ripened Sept. 1.

Punica Granatum—PoOMEGRANATR.

The Pomegranate is a low, deciduous tree, rising some
twenty feet high, with twiggy branches, armed with small
thorns; leaves long, narrow, of a glossy green color with
red veins. The flowers are produced at the ends of the
branches on the shoots of the same year, coming out either
singly or three or four together, and are quite beautiful,
especially the double-flowering varieties. The calyx is
thick, fleshy, of a fine red color, crowned with petals of a
bright scarlet. The fruit is a berry covered with a hard,
coriaceous rind, of a deep yellow color, spotted with red
and fine deep red next to the sun, beautifully crowned when
ripe with the tube of the calyx. . It ripens in September
or October, remaining on the tree, uninjured, a long time.

The Pomegranate is a native of China and Southern
Europe, where it is sometimes used as a hedge plant. The
tree is quite ornamental. The fruit has a very refreshing
acid pulp; and its singular and beautiful appearance ren:

304 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

ders it a welcome addition to the dessert. It is also used
medicinally in fevers, on account of its agreeable cooling
nature; butit is not half asmuch cultivated as it deserves
to be. It might be profitably exported to any extent.
Propagation and Culture-—This tree is propagated from
seeds, layers, suckers or cuttings; also, by budding and
grafting. Seeds must be sown as soon as they ripen.
Any good soil will do for the pomegranate. It requires
little pruning—only taking out some of the weaker shoots,
shortening in or pinching those that are overgrown, to
make them throw out new fruitful shoots all over the tree.
. The only varieties worth cultivating for the fruit are:
1. The sweet-fruited pomegranate.—Pulp sweet, and
juicy.
2. The sub-acid-fruited pomegranate or common variety.
3. The wild or acid-fruited pomegranate, of brisk, acid
flavor—is used for making a nice syrup.

Pyrus Communts.—PEAR.

The Pear is often found growing wild in hedges
in various parts of Europe, China, and Western Asia.
It is a thorny tree with upright branches, tending to
the pyramidal form. The wild fruit is exceedingly
harsh and astringent ; but no fruit whatever, is more deli-
ciously sugary and melting than its best improved varie-
ties. The pear was early brought into cultivation; there
were thirty-two varieties in Pliny’s time, yet they were
«but a heavy meat unless boiled or baked,” and it was not
before the 17th century that this fruit became really worthy
of culture for the dessert. Indeed, within the last fifty
years, the majority of the best varieties have originated.

The pear, under favorable circumstances, is a long-lived
tree. ‘The Endicott Pear tree, still living in Danvers,

YHE PEAR. 3855

Mass., was planted by Gov. Endicott, in 1628, or eight
years after the landing of the Pilgrims. M. Bosc men-
tions trees in Europe, which are known to be 400 years
old. Even in this State, trees that were in full bearing
thirty-seven years ago, are still healthy, vigorous, and
productive. |

It will endure, in suitable soils, greater extremes of heat
than the apple, succeeding well in latitudes too warm for
the latter food to flourish. It is better adapted to our cli-
mate than the apple, while in cold climates it succeeds as
well.

The pear is the most delicious of fruits for the dessert ;
and in this latitude, by choosing proper varieties, we are
able to have them ten or eleven months of the year. The
finer kinds often sell in the cities for one or two dollars per
dozen. It is also excellent for baking, preserves, and mar-
malade. It may be dried like the apple and peach; and
with or without sugar, willkeep for years. Perry is made
from the juice, as cider from the apple. The wood is fine-
grained and compact; and dyed black, is used for picture-
frames, &c., instead of ebony.

Dessert pearsshould have a sugary, aromatic juice, and
a soft, melting, sub-liquid texture. Some few of a con-
sistency, crisp, firm, or breaking, are very good. Pears
for stewing or baking should be large, firm-fieshed, and
moderately juicy. The harsh, austere kinds are thought -
best for perry.

Gathering and Preserving the fruit —Most varieties of the
pear are much better if picked from the tree, before fully
mature and ripened in the house. Indeed, some few kinds
like the Heathcote, Bartlett, and Von Assene, will ripen
well if gathered at any time after they are over half
grown. When afew begin to turn yellow, and ripen on the
tree, then gather the whole. Many of the most delicious

856 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

varieties, if allowed to ripen on the tree, become dry, insipid,
second or thirdrate. They will also ripen more gradually,
last longer, and are less liable to loss or injury if ripened
in the house. It is said, however, few varieties do best to
ripen on the tree. When gathered, some few kinds ripen
more perfectly by exposing them to the light and air.
Most of them, however, in kegs, or small boxes, or on the
shelves of a cool, dark fruit room, each one separately en-
veloped in absorbent paper or loose cotton. This is not
necessary with the summer varieties. Pears, like apples,
must be gathered by hand, with the same precaution, to
prevent bruises, or they will soon decay. Winter Pears
should hang as long as may be upon the tree. When itis
time to ripen, bring them for a week or two from the fruit-
room into a warm apartment, which will much improve
their flavor.

Propagation and Culture—Pears are propagated by
budding or grafting on seedling pear stocks or on certain
varieties of the quince. Suckers should never be em-
ployed for this purpose; for they seldom have good roots
and the trees are short-lived; a great deal of prejudice
exists against pear culture from this cause. Seedlings
raised from the thrifty growing, indifferent fruits that are
often cultivated about the country, are much more healthy
than those raised from the improved varieties.

Sow the seed thickly in Autumn, in drills eighteen
inches apart. Let the soil be deep, rich loam. Ashes are
an excellent application to the seed-bed. The soil must
be moist as on vigorous and continued growth the first
season, much of the value of the stock depends. Take
them up in November or December, shorten the tap-root,
and reset them in rows four feet apart, putting those toge-
gether which are of about the same size. The best of
them, if in a good, deep, moist soil, will be fit to bud during

THE PEAR. 857

the next summer, and nearly all the balance can be whip-
grafted the ensuing spring.

Most kinds of pears grow well on the quince, and come
some years earlier into bearing. The common quince is
not sufficiently vigorous to form a good stock; but for
this purpose the Angers Quince—an upright, quick-grow-
ing variety, which takes readily from cuttings—is used.
The fruit produced from trees on this stock are usually
larger and of better flavor than on the pear. The trees
can also be set much nearer each other; they come into
bearing in two or three years, but are not so long-lived.as
on the pear.

In planting, the trees on the pear stocks should be set
twenty feet apart; but as these will be several years be-
fore they come into bearing, the spaces should be filled up
with dwarf trees growing on the quince. stock, so as to
leave them when planted ten feet apart. Thus a planta-
tion of sixteen trees, set in a square, on the pear stock,
would require thirty-three on the quince to fill the inter-
vals—making a square of seven trees on a side. The
dwarf trees should be planted so deeply as to cover every
trace of the quince stock, in order to permit roots to be
thrown out from above the point of union. This will
prevent the quince borer, and add to the longevity of the
tree. The soil must be kept clean and well tilled; but
should not be deeply spaded within two feet of the trunk.
No fruit tree will be healthy or bear well if the Ae es is
deeply spaded near its stem.

The pear likes a deep, strong loam, similar to that
required by the apple. Iron is very beneficial; hence the
pear succeeds well in our red clayey loam, if deeply dug
and sufficiently manured. On the quince the soil skould
be deep and cool.

308 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

ANALYSIS OF THE ASH OF THE PEAR.

BART

SAP WOOD. HEART WOOD. OF THE TRUNK.
EG ain. uc Bee > 5a 26.94 6.20
pe fe ad an nc eee
Chiorine, Th. S Oa 0.21 1.70
Sulphuric Acid, . . 0.50 0.45 1.80
Phosphate of Lime, . 27.22 20.40 6.50
Phosphate of Per- 0.31 0.80
oxide Iron, 3
Carbonic Acid, . . . 27.69 25.48 37.29
Eime,* .2 \ See a. 18.64 13.14 30.36
Magnesia,. . . . . 3.00 2.93 9.40
Dilex..\% wt. wees fas 0.30 0.30 0.40
Goals kh Ay See tr O97 1.00 0.65
Organic matter,. . . 4.02 5.00 4.20
100.25 96.65 98.50

The above analysis is by Prof. Emmons. The root of
the pear contains less lime and magnesia, but more chlo-
rine, soda, phosphate of lime, and silex. Wood ashes will
supply the potash, and bone manure or superphosphate
of lime the phosphate of lime.

In pruning the pear, the object is to make it throw out
branches within a foot of the ground, and to encourage its
growth in its natural pyramidal shape. Not much prun-
ing is required the first year; but any shoot that by over-
growth threatens to destroy the beauty of the tree, should
be pinched in at once. When the tree is transplanted, if
it has been out of the ground for any time, it must be
severely shortened in. If you have good roots, the top
will soon be renewed. Severe pruning at this time is the
only way to make the tree branch out near the soil, so as
to shade the trunk, and give a fine pyramidal shape.
The object is to form a tree like c. in the cut. To secure

THE PEAR. 309

this plant maiden trees, or those one year from the bud.
When they have grown one year, they will be something
like a. Cut off the branches where tne lines are dotted,

in the winter, and pinch in any shoots during the summer,
that would destroy the symmetry of the tree, or remove
them entirely if superfluous. If this is done, the tree at
the close of a good season will resemble 6. Head back
the leader to strengthen the side branches, each year. The
leader must be shortened more or less according to its
vigor. A little practice will enable any one of ordinary
judgment to form his trees in the desired shape. Do not
let the branches remain so close together that when they
come to bear, they will cause the fruit and foliage in the
interior to suffer for want of air. Keep the lower shoots
the longest by pinching those above, when disposed to
overgrow them. ‘The main thing is constant attention
that the tree may not waste its strength in forming wood
where it will have to be cut out to keep the tree in good
shape. The whole process is concisely detailed in the
following from the “ Gardener’s Chronicle :’—

860 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. -—

“The process consists in shortening the first year’s
shoot of the apple or pear tree, called the graft shoot, to
one foot at afull bud. The first year, on pushing out in
spring, rub off all laterals, except four or five at the bottom
of the stem, to garnish it with a first tier of branches for
future years. Train the leader to a stick quite perpendicu-
Jar. The next winter proceed as before, by shortening the
leader twelve inches at a full bud. Remove all interme-
diate buds as before down the leader, and leave those at
the bottom to form a second tier of laterals; and shorten
the lower tier to an outside bud. After the second year
shoot, the summer pruning consists in rubbing off the
laterals forming now the lower tier, above and below the
branch, so as to keep them as horizontal as possible.
Strengthen those that grow horizontal by pinching off the
ends if necessary. Each tier should be as near as may be
twelve or thirteen inches, one above the other; and, if
possible, the branches of each succeeding tier should be
so grown as to be above the intervals of the tier below.”
This makes a beautiful ed a tree, ornamental even
in a flower garden.”

The great obstacle in pear culture is the blight, a dis-
ease whose virulence is almost peculiar to this fruit tree.
The causes are not well known. Hon. John Lowell, of
Boston, attributes it to a minute insect described by Peck,
in 1816, as the scolytus pyri. ‘The insect in this latitude
lays its eggs late in May or June, close to a bud; and as
they hatch, the grub enters the shoot, perforating and
devouring it. While the tree is in its full growth, shoots
at the extremity of the branches suddenly shrivel, the
leaves turn back and die; the wood also is dark and dis-
colored, and dries very hard. Prof. Turner attributes this
disease to another minute insect, scarcely perceptible to the
naked eye, which covers the branches in myriads. This

THE PEAR. 361

form of blight can be prevented by the application of lime-
wash, soft soap, or soda lye. But these will hardly ac-
count for all the forms of blight in the pear. Sometimes
in fine growing weather, nearly the whole tree is suddenly
’ killed by this insidious disease. Perhaps, when the shoots
are very tender, succulent, and full of sap, they are unable
to endure a high degree of heat. Again, trees that are
growing in very rich ground, sometimes do not ripen their
wood perfectly, when a sudden frost, followed by a hot
sun-shine, bursts the tissues of the shoots, and corrupts the
sap, causing the shoots to perish, and if not timely arrested
by severe pruning, totally destroys the tree. ‘This disease
is quite frequent in cold climates. Whatever may be the
causes of blight, it is certain that those varieties making
rapid growth, are most affected by it. The Seckel pear
growing slowly, is free of it. Again with us, if old trees
are headed down severly in order to graft on, they are
almost sure to be blighted, the ensuing summer, in the
vigorous young shoots.

Mr. Van Buren, one of our best pomologists, thinks the
disease caused by an insect, which punctures the bark on
the trunk, and large limbs at those points, where it is
changing from the smooth to the rough state. It first ap-
pears as a dark spot, as if a little powder had been burned
there. The spot enlarges, the bark sinks down to the
wood, and at length becomes surrounded with a crack or
seam, separating it from the healthy part. Soon as the
spot oceupies a considerable portion of the trunk or limb,
the leaves at the end of the twig turn black and die; as
does also more or less of the diseased limb itself. The
leaves die on the same side of the tree that is diseased
below. Hence, when the leaves begin to die, or even
refuse to grow, you will generally find the bark below
somewhere diseased. When not larger than a pea, they

16

362 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

may sometimes be seen while the health of the tree in
affected, only so as to stop growth. Upon cutting into the
spots the bark is dark and discolored; with two punctures
generally about one eighth of an inch apart (occasionally
there is but one). At first they do not reach the wood,
but oniy to the cellular integument. If the affected part
is removed with a knife, the wound immediately heals,
and the health of the tree is restored. Cut out the dis-
eased bark, if it extends nearly around the trunk. Trees
with soft, thick bark are more lable to be affected. When
the leaves turn black, the branch will have to be cut off
below the affected part. Itis not certain whether this
variety of the disease is caused by an insect, or a fungus.
This form of blight I have never seen.

In all cases of blight, whether itis caused by insects, or
disease of the circulation when the twigs begin to die, the
remedy is the same, and must be promptly applied, or the
tree is lost. Cut off the infected part at once, a foot below
where it appears shrivelled, and burn it. If it spreads
further, cut more deeply. Examine daily ; cut promptly
and unsparing ; you may as well kill the tree yourself, as
have it destroyed by blight, and the disease spreading from
tree to tree. The best method of prevention is not to feed
the pear too highly with nitrogenous manure, but rather
with leaf mould or swamp muck, composted with the
mineral constituents found by analysis necessary for the
pear.

Varieties —A greater number of varieties of the pear
are in cultivation than of any other fruit. Of those which
have fruited here, the following are the most desirable.
The varieties do not always observe with us the order of
succession laid down in the books.

The earliest pear is Amire Joannet, which ripens in May;
but it is small and of rather indifferent quality, though it

THE PEAR—VARIETIES. 3863

bears well, and is desirable in a large collection. Not
many of the later pears (which are the most desirable),
have yet fruited here; but so far as tried, they are equal
or superior to the same fruits ripened at the North.

1. Madeleine—Fruit medium, obovate, tapering to the
stem; stem long, slender, set on the side of a small swel-
ling; skin smooth, yellowish green; calyx small, in a shal-
low basin; flesh white, melting, juicy, sweet, and perfumed.
Ripe between the first and middle of June. Tree some-
times blights; but it is very desirable, unless Doyenne
d’ Ete, which ripens at the same time; should supersede it,
as it probably will, being a more healthy tree.

2. Skinless.—F ruit small, long, pyriform ; skinthin, smooth,
pale green, turning to light yellow, speckled with light
red in the sun; stalk long, slender, curved in a very
slight cavity; calyx enclosed in a small basin; flesh
white, juicy, half melting, sweet, and perfumed. A very
productive and excellent little pear, and deserves a place
in every garden. Ripens June 18th.

3. Bloodgood.—F ruit medium size, turbinate, thickening
into the stalk ; skin thin, yellow, dotted, and marked with
russet, and has a musk perfume; calyx open; stalk short,
dark brown, set obliquely; fleshy at the base; flesh yel-
lowish white, buttery, melting, very sugary and aromatic;
core small. The best flavored early pear. Ripens 25th of
June, Muscat Rubert ripens at the same season with
this fruit, and is a very prolific bearer and a good pear,
although inferior to Bloodgood.

4. Dearborn’s Seedling —F ruit rather small, turbinate, reg-
ular; skin smooth, light yellow, with a few minute dots;
stalk slender, over an inch long, in a slight cavity ; calyx
spreading in a shallow basin; flesh white, melting, sweet,
and sprightly. A very juicy and delicious little pear,

864 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

quite productive, and one of the best. Ripe the last of
June. Indispensable.

5. Julienne—Fruit medium size, obovate, regular; skin
smooth, fine yellow ; stalk light brown, over an inch long,
rather stout, in a very shallow cavity ; calyx small, closed
in a shallow basin; flesh white, melting, buttery, sweet,
and moderately juicy. A very early bearer, and a hardy
and productive pear, and of very good quality, if house-
ripened, but sometimes astringent. Ripe 1st of July.
Desirable and profitable.

6. St. Ghistlaan.— Fruit rather small, pyriform, tapering to
the stalk; skin pale yellow, with afew gray specks; stalk
an inch and a half long, curved and joined to the fruit by
fleshy rings at its base; calyx small, open, in a shallow
basin; core small; flesh white, melting, juicy, with a rich,
sprightly flavor. Ripens July 6th. This little pear is a fa-
vorite with me, producing enormous crops, which continue
to ripen successively for some six weeks or more, and
when house-riped, they are invariably excellent.

7. Stevens’ Genesee—is a most excellent variety. Fruit
roundish, obovate (varying to turbinate); stalk an inch
iong, stout, thicker at the base, and set in a slight, one-
sided cavity ; calyx with short, stiff divisions, in a moder-
ate basin; flesh white, half-buttery, of rich, aromatic
flavor.

8. Golden Beurre of Bilboa.—Fruit above medium size,
oboyate, regular; skin thin, smooth, golden-yellow, sprink-
led evenly with small, brown dots, a little russet near the
stalk; stalk an inch and a half long, slender, in a moder-
ate cavity ; calyx small, closed in a slight basin; flesh
white, buttery, melting, and rich. Ripens the last of July,
before the Bartlett. A nice looking and good pear, pro-
ducing well—needs house-ripening to bring out its flavor

THE PEAR—VARIETIES. 365

9. Napoleon—Fruit large, obtuse, pyriform, varying in
form ; skin smooth, pale yellow when ripe, with a darker
cheek; stem stout, half an inch to an inch in length, set
in a slight depression; calyx open in a medium basin ;
flesh tender, sprightly, juicy, and excellent if house-
ripened. Growth free on quince or pear upright; shoots
olive colored.

10. Barilett —F ruit of large size, pyramidal, irregular ; skin
thin, smooth, clear yellow, sometimes a slight blush to the
sun, rarely a little russeted; stalk an inch long or over,
stout, in a shallow basin; flesh white, fine grained, but-
tery, juicy, vinous, and perfumed. Ripe August Ist to
20th. The tree is apt to blight, and the fruit is sometimes
acid, and never of the very highest flavor. In unfavorable
seasons, the fruit rots where exposed to the sun; but its
size, fine appearance, and productiveness make it very pop-
ular and desirable. Will ripen finely in the house when
two-thirds grown, where blown off by the wind.

11. Seckel—Fruit small, regular, obovate; skin dull yel-
lowish brown, with russet red cheek; stalk short, curved, in
a slight cavity ; calyx small, in a slight basin; flesh, whit-
ish, buttery, very juicy, with avery sweet, rich, spicy flavor,
considered the best of all pears This fruit is generally
larger than at the north. It bears abundantly every year,
seldom blights, and is always delicious. Ripens Aug. 15th.
Does well, and bears larger fruit on the apple as a stock.

12. White Deyenne (Virgalieu, St. Michael’s, &c)—Fruit
medium to large, regular obovate; skin smooth, light yel-
low dotted, and often with a red cheek; stalk from three-
fourths of an inch to one and a fourth inches long; slightly
curved, and in a small cavity; calyx small, closed in a
shallow basin; flesh white, buttery, melting, high-flavor-
ed and delicious. Ripens 15th August, and in succession a
long time ; always of fine quality here; never cracks, and

366 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

in every respect is of the highest excellence. Succeeds on
pear or quince.

13. Louise Bonne de Jersey— Fruit large, pyri skin
smooth and glossy, pale green overspread in the sun with
brownish red, sprinkled with gray dots; stalk an inch
long, curved, inserted obliquely, without depression in a
fleshy base; calyx open, in a shallow basin; flesh green-
ish white, juicy, melting, richandexcellent. Ripens August
25th. Proves here equally good on pear or quince stock ;
an early bearer always fair, beautiful and of excellent
though not the highest flavor. (Mr. Van Buren writes it
does not succeed with him.) : -

14. Duchessed’ Angouleme——Fruit very large, oblong, obo-
vate with a knobby surface; skin dull, greenish yellow,
streaked and spotted with russet ; stalk long, very stout, bent,
and deeply set in an irregular cavity; flesh white, buttery,
very juicy, rich and delicious. Said to succeed best on the
quince, does well here on pear stock ; a very desirable sort
on account of the fruit being of excellent quality, and im-
mensely large.

15. Belle Lucrative —Fruit medium size, round, obovate ;
skin pale yellowish green, slightly russet; stalk an inch
long, stout, set obliquely in a slight cavity ; calyx, short,
open, in a moderate basin; flesh, melting, exceedingly
juicy, sugary, rich and delicious. Ripens August 25th. To
my taste fully equal to the Seckel, very melting and de-
licious, and a first-rate pear in every respect. Napolean
and Heathcote are desirable pears; ripening about the 20th
of September, and increase the variety of fruits at a season
when peaches and apples are not usually plentiful.

16. Beurre Bosc.—¥ ruit large, pyriform, tapering gradually
to the stalk; skin dark yellow, nearly covered with cinna-
mon ruséset, slightly tinged with red to the sun; stalk long,
elender, curved; calyx ina shallow basin; flesh white,

THE PEAR—YVARIETIES. 367

melting, buttery; rich and delicious; begins to ripen the
middle of September; decidedly one of the best. Has a
delicious flavor, and is a constant and abundant bearer.
Succeeds best on pear stock.

17. Beurre Duel —F ruit larger, obovate, varying to obtuse
pyriform; skin thick, lemon yellow, turning to orange,
somewhat marbled with russet, and marked with large
brown dots; stem rather long, stout, in an uneven cavity ;
flesh yeliowish white, a little coarse at the core, rich,
sugary, buttery, and delicious. Ripe the 15th of September.
Thought to succeed best on the quince, but here very fine
on either. The trees for two or three years past, appears
* more subject to blight than formerly ; very desirable.

18. Messire Jean.—Ripens at the same time with the latter.
Fruit, medium size, turbinate; skin somewhat rough, yel-
low, mostly covered with brownish russet; stalk an inch
long, in a small wide cavity ; calyx small, open in a shal-
low basin. Flesh, white, crisp, juicy, breaking with a
very sweet, rich flavor. Second rate at the North. A
good bearer, and worth cultivating in a warm climate. A
highly excellent breaking pear.

19. Soldat Liloreur d Esperin.—F ruit large, oblong, pyri-
form ; skin greenish yellow, whenripe, somewhat striped and
dotted with russet; stem full, stout, curved, depression
slight ; calyx open; flesh a little coarse, but juicy, melt-
ing, and sweet. A very strong, growing, vigorous, upright
tree. On the quince, has borne fine specimens with me
the last two years on quite a young tree. Ripens in Oc-
tober, and keeps some time.

20. Lawrence-—F ruit medium to large, long, obovate, nar-
rowing to an obtuse end; color dull, pale yellow, mar-
bled with greenish brown russet at the ends; calyx large,
closed in a furrowed basin; stem stout, swollen at the point
of junction with the tree, in a round, deep cavity. Tree

. 368 . GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

hardy, of moderate growth, shoots thorny, light yellowish
brown. October and later.

21. Glout Morcean—Fruit rather large, oval, obovate,
varying in shape; skin, thin, pale greenish yellow, with
brownish patches; stem long, slender, in a small cavity ;
calyx open, in a deep basin. Flesh white, fine-grained,
buttery, melting, saccharine and rich. Ripens gradually
through haiiiaons lasts often until January. Excellent.

22. Winter Nelis—Fruit medium size, roundish, obovate
narrowing to the stalk, yellowish green, dotted with gray
russet and nearly covered with russet patches towards the
sun; stalk long, curved in a narrow cavity; calyx open,
in a shallow basin; flesh yellowish white, fine grained, °
juicy, melting, with a rich sugary flavor. Tree apt to
blight, but the most delicious of late pears. Ripe last of
October and through November. Nearly or quite equal
to the Seckel. : |

23. Jaminetie, or Josephine—Fruit medium to large, obo-
vate, narrowing to the stalk; skin, pale green, marked with
brownish russet and speckled with round dots; stalk,
rather short, thick, obliquely set without a cavity;
calyx open, in a moderate basin; flesh, white, melting,
juicy, with sugary aromatic flavor. Ripens Nov. 6th.
Valuable.

24. Beurre D’ Aremberg—F¥ ruit, obovate, narrowing to
the stalk ; skin, pale greenish yellow spotted with russet ;
stalk short, fleshy and_ obliquely set; calyx small, im a
deep basin; flesh white, buttery, melting and juicy, with
arich vinous flavor. Ripensin November. Promises well.

25. Franklin —A native of this State; large, oblong, turbi-
nate, very irregular, narrowing to theeye; green, clouded
with dark green, and thickly sprinkled with dark green
dots. A very indifferent looking pear which bears abun-
dantly, and when ripe in January, the flesh is sweet,

THE PEAR—VARIETIES. 369

melting, juicy, and delicious; calyx in a shallow one-sided
basin; stem an inch long, set on one side of the fleshy
protuberance.

26. Passe Calmer—Fruit large, obovate, varying to obtuse,
pyriform ; skin yellow, sprinkled with brown russet ; stem
inserted in an uneven cavity or without depression; calyx
open, in a shallow basin; flesh yellowish, buttery, juicy,
rich and sweet. This fruit has not borne here; but in
other sections of the South, is much liked. The tree is
apt to blight.

27. Easter Beurre-——Fruit large, roundish, obovate ; skin
yellowish green, sprinkled with russety dots, with some-
times a brownish cheek; stem short, blunt, in an abrupt
cavity ; calyx small, closed in a broad plaited basin ;
flesh white, fine-grained, buttery, melting, and of a rich,
sweet excellent flavor. Has been kept here till March. ©
Several trees should be planted of this variety, as it re-
mains in eating all winter, and is valuable for market. It
succeeds best, it is said, on the quince.

28. Catillac, (a cooking pear).—Extremely large, broad,
turbinate; skin yellow, dotted with brown, and with a
brownish red cheek; stalk stout, curved, in a narrow
cavity; calyx in a wide deep plaited basin; flesh hard
and rough, but cooking tender and of a fine light red
color. Ripens in November. .

29. Black Worcester —Fruit large, obovate or oblong; skin
thick, rough, green, covered with dark russet ; stalk short,
stout, in a slight cavity; calyx small, in a moderate basin;
flesh hard during the winter, but cooks well, and towards
spring becomes tolerably good for the table.

30. Easter Bergamot—Fruit medium to large, roundish,
obovate, narrowing to the stalk ; skin smooth, pale green,
speckled with light grey dots, becoming pale yellowish at
maturity ; stalk in a slight cavity ; calyx small,in a shal-

16*

B70. GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH,

low basin; flesh white, crispy, juicy, melting and sprightly,
The tree is thrifty, furnishes fruit fit for: cooking a long
time; and as they ripen, they become agreeable for the
table. Ripens December and January.

In addition to the above list, Beurré Giffart, Doyenne
d’Ete, Ott, Rostiezer, and Tyson, are esteemed early
varieties; Belle et Bonne, Beurré, Brown, B. d’Anjou, B.
Oswego, Gansels Bergamot, Bonne des Zées, Brandywine,
Doyenné Boussock, De Gris, Flemish Beauty, Henry 1V.,
Leech’s Kingsessing, Lodge, Onondaga, Paradise d’Au-
tomne, Urbaniste, Van Assene, and Washington, of the
middle season; and Buerre Bretonean, B. Gris d’ Hiver

Jeveau, B. Langeliers, Columbia, Doyenné d’Alencon,
Elize d’Heyst, Josephine de Malines, Lewis, Princes St.
Germain, and Suzette de Bavoy, of the late varieties, are |
worthy of a trial with those seeking variety, or desiring a
large collection. The native pears ripening the last of
August, viz., Comaks, Green Cluster, and Horton, and
the Nabours a little later, are very desirable.

Mr. Summer, of Pomaria, §.C., has published in the
Southern Agriculturist a select list of fifty-one sorts,
including Nos. 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 15,16, 17,
21, 22, 24, of the above described. Mr. Van Buren; of
Clarkesville, gives, as his choice of best sorts, Nos. 3, 7, 9,
10, 11, 12, 15, 16, 24, 27, and Onondaga and Brown Buerre.
H. A. Swasey, of Yazoo City, Miss., recommends, in the
Southern: Agriculturist, Nos. 2, 6, 10, 11, 14, 22, 27, and
Jefferson, Jargonelle, Carolina Sugar, Buffam, Prince of
Orange, Capiamont, Pound Mammoth, and Le Cure. Dr.
J.C. Jenkyns, in Southern Cultivator and Report to the
American Pomological Society, speaks highly of Nos. 1,
3,55; 8,,10, 11,,12, 133,145.15), 16,17; 215:22,. 245 26 ales
among others, Doyenne d’Ete, Beurre Giffart, Rostiezer,
Tyson, Summer Franc, Real Beurre Gouboult, Leech’s

THE APPLE. SSE

Kingsessing, Doyenne Grey, Brandywine, Long Green,
and Vicompte de Spoelberg St. Andre, most of which
bear a high character everywhere. Mr. Van Buren rejects
Maria Louise and Vicar of Winkfield, also Louise Bonne
de Jersey and Pass Colmar. Maria Louise here is subject
to blight, and Vicar of Winkfield or Le Cure always cracks
and is worthless; but Louise Bonne de Jersey is one of
the very best in tree and fruit here, and Passe Colmar
generally succeeds in the South.

Pyrus Malus—Tue APpPue.

The apple probably originated from the European crab;
but, in its improved state, it is so superior to its parent, in
size and flavor, that some deny the original identity of the
two. But centuries of cultivation might certainly cause
as great a change in the quality of this fruit as, in the case
ot the dahlia, we have seen a very few years produce in
the beauty of a flower.

The apple was early brought into cultivation—in the
time of Pliny twenty-two varieties being known to the
Romans. They probably introduced its culture into Great
Britain. It succeeds, however, in this country better than
in Europe, especially in the fresh soils of the middle
States, or in the cool mountain regions of the South,
localities which have originated many choice varieties.

Where the apple can be grown and preserved in per-
- fection, it is the most useful of fruits. Varieties can be
selected which will afford a succession through the entire
season. ‘They can be thus preserved in our own mountain
region, from which excellent fruit is brought as late as the
first of May.

The best varieties of apples are excellent dessert fruits.
Medicinally, they are slightly laxative, and, used moder-

«OFZ. GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

ately, keep the system in proper tone. Children are more
healthy if allowed to use, in moderate quantity, fully ripe
fruit. Apples, indeed, are really nutritive, and are often
employed in feeding domestic animals. For the table they
are prepared in many ways (in all of which they are
wholesome), as by baking, stewing, in pies, tarts, pud-
dings, jellies. and preserves. They are also dried for
winter use. Choose for this purpose those which will
cook tender, and are of fine, brisk flavor.

The apple may be propagated by cuttings, which may
be planted like most other cuttings, with both ends bent
downward like an inverted U, thus q. The upper part
of the bow should be crowned with a bud, which should
be just beneath the surface of the soil. But the best mode
is by budding or grafting on seedling stocks. The seed
should be planted in good soil, at any time during the
winter months, in rows eighteen inches apart. Keep them
clean during the summer, and, if the soil and season have
been favorable, they may be taken up the next spring, the
roots shortened, and then whip-grafted just above the sur-
face. Reset them in good soil, in rows three feet apart,
and one foot in the row. Those which were not large
enough to graft may be also reset, and will do to bud
during the summer. The next winter, those well grown
may be set where they are toremain. If any of the plants.
are infested with the woolly aphis, wash them with tobacco-
water; or, if you have enough without them, burn them
up. The plants should be placed in the orchards twenty- :
five or thirty feet apart. ‘The intervening space, for the
first few years may be filled with dwarf pears, quinces,
plums, or peaches, which can be cut down when the apple
trees require the whole ground. A thin mulching of leaves,
straw, or decayed tan-bark, is a useful application about
the roots of the tree.

THE APPLE: _ 873

ANALYSIS OF THE APPLE.

SAPWOOD. BARK.
Potashies ss : j x cAliG19 4.930
Soda, . 3 Sl 3.285
Chloride of Sh dient fi : 0.43 0.540
Sulphate of Lime, . ; 0,05 0.637
Phosphate of Perox. of Iron, 0.80 0.375
Phosphate of Lime, . mt L600 2.425
Phosphate of eRRER AS 0.20
Carbonic Acid, ; ee MOL ONe) 44,050
Lime, . Gis. 18.63 51.578
Magnesia, 3 : 3 8.40 0.150
Silicica, ‘ ; i 0.85 0.200
Soluble Silica, . : : 0.S0 0.400
Organic matter, . ‘ 4.60 2.100

100.65 109.450

One-half of the ash of the bark of the apple, and over
one-sixth of that of the sap-wood, it will be seen, is pure
lime. When this mineral is not pretty abundant, the tree
cannot be kept in health. Swamp-muck or leaf-mould
composted with this, with the addition of bone-dust, pot-
ash, or ashes, are the best applications. |

The best soil for the apple, in this climate, is a deep,
cool, moist loam. In bottom-lands they generally do
well, if there be no stagnant water, since the roots find
abundant moisture, and the later varieties will continue
growing until the proper time to gather for winter use.
If planted on dry, shallow soil, unless deeply trenched,
' all the winter varieties will drop before attaining perfec-
tion. The best manure for the apple is swamp-muck, or
woods earth composted with the lime and salt mixture; to
which may be added wood-ashes, old plaster, and any-
thing containing lime.

The apple, in this section, is a difficult fruit. to eulti-

874 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

vate. A tree full grown, and entirely free from disease,
is ararity. I have had them die at the root suddenly,
while the top was apparently free from disease, and both
entirely free from the woolly aphis. Sometimes they die
slowly, perhaps from the too intense action of the sun
upon the soil and roots; or, it may be, from the great de-
ficiency of lime in this soil. A large proportion of our
trees are diseased and decayed on the south-western side
of the trunk, where the sun falls in the heat of the day.
Then we have the bark-lice, borers, and caterpillars.
Then, worse than all, is that ‘pest of the orchard, the

woolly aphis, or American blight. Now these are serious
obstacles in the way of the orchardist; but they may be
surmounted. Bark-lice, caterpillars, and borers, a little
care, in season, will destroy here, as well as anywhere.
The sun-burning of the trunk can be prevented by plant-
ing trees of but one year’s growth from the bud, and so
shortening them in, when planted, that they will throw
out branches near the soil. The thick foliage will thus
screen the trunk from the sun, and, by keeping the roots
shaded, will improve the general health of the tree. The
lime and other constituents lacking in the soil can from
time to time be applied. Old plastering, and the refuse
lime of the tanner, where they can be had, will ana
supply this element.

The aphisis more troublesome. If they are on a Joes
tree in the garden, the wind will soon carry them enve-
loped in the down from one end tothe other. If youare free
from them at first, it is better to raise trees from seed, get”
scions and graft them yourself, than to incur the risk of
introducing the aphis with your purchases. If you do
buy, beware of those trees with roots full of warts, caused
by its minute lacerations. If there’is the least token of
the presence of the aphis, either by the downy matter in

THE APPLE. B15

the crack of the bark of the young tree, or by the warts on
the roots, wash the roots thoroughly in tobacco water, and
paint the stem and branches with whitewash, composed of
soap-suds, thickened with quick lime. You will thus be
free from this pest to begin with ; afterwards every place
where they appear should be coated with this paint. 'This,
on moderate size trees, isan effectual remedy, and besides a
beneficial application to the tree. Some trees, like the
Meigs, are seldom troubled with the aphis, while the Early
May is almost always infested with them. When the
aphis infests the roots it is best destroyed by uncovering
the roots, and pouring strong tobacco water upon them
wherever affected. In prunning the young tree, the first
object is to make it throw out shoots near the earth to
shield the trunk from the sun. All fruit trees should be
thus trained. Never let a fruit tree be bare of branches
more than twelve inches from the ground, or allow it to
shoot up with a long naked stem. Peaches, pears, plums,
&e., are all more healthy and productive thus trained.
This is effected by shortening or pinching the upper
shoots, for which sufficient directions are give in our
article on the ‘ Pear” The apple, however, does not gene-
rally require as close shortening in of its leading shoot as
the pear. All needless branches, and those which inter-
fere by crossing and rubbing against each other, should be
removed while small. If a large limb is removed, cover
the stump with grafting wax, or the shellac solution.
GATHERING THE FRtu1T.—Those intended for keeping or
sending to market, should be carefully picked from the tree,
and handled with great care, to prevent bruising. ‘Those
that fall of themselves must be kept separate, as the least
bruise will cause decay. 'They must be frequently looked
over, and every one the least decayed, must be carefully
removed, or it will infect the others. They should be

376 GARDENING FOR.THE SOUTH.

kept at a uniform temperature in a dry cool, situation
Choice specimens may be wrapped in absorbent paper, and
laid singly on shelves. They should not be exposed to
much frost, and still less to extremes of heat. Specimens
may thus be kept in good condition until March. A fruit-
room should be kept as cool as possible, and if the tempe-
rature could be kept uniformly at 32°, no decay would
take place. Packed in ice, they are sent in perfect
safety to the East and West Indies. .

In selecting varieties for cultivation, as it is a matter of -
some difficulty to raise a good supply (the apple being
adapted to a more northern climate), we must guard
against overrefinement. It is not our first question, What
varieties are of the very highest flavor; but is the tree
hardy and productive enough to bear fruit at all. Will it
produce enough to be worth cultivating. It is then quite
early enough to select from those possessing these indis-
pensable good qualities those of the highest flavor for
the dessert or kitchen.

Of northern varieties, those classed as Summer Apples
almost invariably succeed here. Some of the Early Autumn
varieties also do well, and, of course, are summer apples
with us. But the winter apples, asa class, are entirely
unsuited to our climate. We need good Autumn and
Winter varieties, and for them we must rely upon those
of southern origin, as the northern winter varieties usually
fall and decay before the middle of September; besides
here very few of them exhibit any choice qualities.
Some fifty sorts have been tried here, and failed. Any
one possessed of native varieties that ripen in October and
November, or later, will confer a benefit on the entire
South by disseminating scions among our Southern
nurseries.

Ll. Early May—F ruit small, roundish, sometimes slightly

THE APPLE—VARIETIES. S7F

oblong; skin thin, yellowish green when ripe, with some-
times a brownish cheek; stem short, in a shallow cavity;
calyx small, closed in a shallow basin; flesh yellowish-
white, tender, of a mild acid and rather pleasant flavor;
begins to ripen the 15th or 20th of May. The earliest of
apples, which is its only merit. Probably the White
Juneating of Downing. Liable to the aphis.

2. Harly Harvest—Fruit medium size, round, some-
times flattened; skin smooth, with a few white dots, and of
lightest straw color; stalk half to three-fourths of an inch
long, slender in a moderate cavity; calyx in a shallow
basin ; flesh white, tender, juicy, crisp; flavor rich, spright-
ly, andsubacid. Inclined to overbear. Ripens last of May.

3. Red June-—Fruit medium, generally oblong, but occa-
sionally flat; skin smooth, green in the shade, changing
rapidly at maturity to a fine dark crimson; stem half to
three-fourths of an inch long, inserted in a moderate
cavity; calyx in a shallow basin; flesh white, tender,
mellow, and digestible, fine grained, slightly acid, moder-
ately juicy, but not rich. <A good fruit and a hardy, pro-
ductive tree. Ripens early in June. This is not the Red
Astracou, which, being more acid, is better for the kitchen,
and not so good for the dessert.

4, Julian-—Fruit medium size, roundish, tapering some-
what to the eye, rather one-sided; calyx small, in a
narrow basin; stem short, in a moderate cavity; skin
thin, yellowish white, striped and marbled with carmine,
of a beautiful waxen appearance, sprinkled sparingly with
whitish dots; flesh white, tender, juicy, and fine flavored ;
indeed, the finest summer apple known north and south.
Ripens about the middle of July,

5. Sinclair’s Yellow.—Fruit small to medium, flat or
roundish ; skin smooth, of a fine orange color, darkened
in the sun; flesh pale yellow, with a rich subacid flavor.

378 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

A good bearer, and excellent for both the table and kitchen.
Ripens June 15th.

6. Bough—Large oblong ovate; skin smooth, pale green-
ish yellow; stalk rather long, in a deep, narrow cavity;
calyx deeply sunk; flesh white, with a rich sprightly
saccharine flavor. Ripens late in June. ,

7. Maiden Blush.—Fruit medium size, flat, smooth, and
fair; skin thin, clear lemon yellow, with a fine blush to
the sun; stalk short, in a wide. deep cavity; calyx closed
in a moderate basin; flesh white, tender, sprightly, sub-
acid. Excellent for drying and culinary uses, and a fair
dessert fruit. Ripens first of July to August.

8. Cane Creek weet.—Medium or large, oblong, regular
tapering to the eye; skin pale green; stalk long, slender,
in a deep cavity, often slightly furrowed; calyx closed,
in a narrow, plaited basin; flesh white, tender, moderately
sweet, when in perfection juicy, but becomes mealy if
over ripe. Quality very good.* From Burke Co., N. C.
Ripe 15th July. |

9. Toccca—Rather large, conical,irregular; skin yellow,
striped with red; stem short, in an irregular cavity ; calyx
closed in a small, irregular basin; flesh yellow, with a
brisk rich Spitzenburgh flavor, moderately juicy; core
large. A native of Habersham Co. Ripens first of August.

10. Horse Apple.—Size medium to large, roundish, nar-
rowing to the eye, sometimes conical and somewhat irregu-
lar; skin thick, greenish yellow in the shade, but rich, dark
orange, or blush, towards the sun, often marked with a
few russet lines, or flecks, about the stem; stem short,
rather large, in a shallow cavity; calyx in a narrow basin;
core large, hollow; seeds few; flesh yellow, firm, coarse
grained, with a rich acid flavor. Well ripened, a good
table apple; excellent for cooking. Ripens last of July
Productive, hardy, and valuable, continuing long in use.

THE APPLE—VARIETIES. 379

11. Male Carle—Fruit medium size, regular, narrow-
ing to the eye; skin smooth, waxen, lemon yellow in the
shade, with a light crimson cheek; stalk an inch long, slen-
der, in a narrow, regular cavity; calyx in a deep, narrow
basin; flesh white, moderately juicy, tender, of delicate
flavor. A native of the south of Europe; succeeds well
here. Ripens in August.

12. Fall Pippin—F ruit very large, roundish, flattened,
obscurely ribbed; stalk three-fourths of an inch long, in a
shallow, round cavity ; calyx small, in a deep, narrow
basin; flesh tender and mellow, with a rich, aromatic,
subacid flavor. A splendid apple here. The Cameusar
or Elgin Pippin (Reinette Blanche d’Espagne) resembling
this, but oblong, is a little later, and proves, with Dr.
Jenkyns, near Natchez, the best of all apples. It ripens
there last of July,and through August. Fall Pippin ripens
here in August.

13. Carthouse—Fruit of medium size, roundish, oblong;
skin smooth, handsome, streaked with red and yellow;
stalk short, in a deep cavity; calyx in a deep, regular
basin; flesh yellow, firm, juicy, and rich, when fully ripe
tender and sprightly. A fine cider apple. Ripens first
of September. From Virginia.

14, Buffs—Fruit of the largest size, irregular, roundish,
flattened, and slightly angular in form; skin thick, ground
color, yellow, but striped and overspread with red, very
dark next the sun, marked with a few greenish russet
spots; stem three-fourths of an inch long, in a medium
cavity; calyx in a large, irregular basin; flesh yellowish,
and when well ripened, tender and excellent, sometimes
indifferent—lacks richness and acidity. Ripens Novem-
ber to March. Indispensable.

15. Megs.—Fruit large, regular, oblong, narrowing to
thee ye, sometimes slightly ribbed; skin yellow, but mostly

380 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

concealed with a marbling of red, and sprinkled with
prominent yellow dots; calyx small, closed and set in a
narrow basin; stalk very short, thick, in a deep, narrow
cavity; flesh yellowish white, tender, juicy, with a rich
slightly subacid flavor. The best apple I know of our
native fruits. Growth very thrifty, and less infested with
aphis than many others.

16. Waddel’s Hall or Shockley —Fruit, medium, roundish,
oblong, narrowing to the eye; skin, yellow, clouded, and
striped with red, and with blotches of very dark-greenish
russet; stalk long, slender, inserted in a deep, narrow
cavity ; calyx closed, set in a shallow basin; flesh firm,
saccharine, of good second-rate flavor; ripe in October,
and will keep till March.

17. Limbertwig—Fruit large, dull red ; flesh yellowish,
firm, not very high-flavored, but a good dial cultivated in
our up-country. The pendant branches give the tree its
name. Originated in Virginia. It keeps through the winter.

The following additional varieties are described by Mr.
Van Buren, of Clarkesville, Ga., as very superior, and
most of them recommended by the Fruit Committee of
the Southern Central Agricultural Society. They are
now in the nurseries :—

18. Carnation —Fruit medium size ; a delicious sub-acid
apple, fully first-rate; dark-red, splashed with russet 3
flesh white, brittle, and very juicy; both the calyx and
stem are sunk in deep depressions; no autumn apple is
superior ; ripe August 10th.

19. Hugh’s Crab—Small size; green striped, and splashed
with dark red; stem short, inserted in a moderate cavity ;
flesh sprightly, subacid, and good; a good bearer; ripe
August 10th.

20. Batchelor or King —F¥ ruit of the largest size; roundish,
flattened a little, broader at the base; skin lemon yellow,

THE APPLE—VARIETIES, 881

washed with .ively red on the sunny side, (sometimes ob-
scurely striped), and sprinkled sparsely with greyish
specks; calyx small, open ina rather deep basin; stalk
very short, thick, and inserted in a moderate regular basin,
which is often russeted; flesh white, tender, fine grained
juicy and most agreeable subacid flavor. It is from
North Carolina (November).—A magnificent fruit.

WINTER VARIETIES,

21. Maverick Sweet.—Very large, roundish, irregular, some-
times slightly conical, striped with bright red, sprinkled
with greenish flecks ; stem short, in a rather large regular
cavity ; calyx open; basin medium; skin rather thick ;
flesh fine grained, tender, of sweet, excellent flavor. Ripens
November and December.

22. Nickajack.* Size very large, flattened ; color yellow.
ish green, covered with red stripes and splashes, and
sprinkled with minute white specks; calyx large, open,
set in a broad basin; stem short, in a regular cavity ;
flesh juicy, tender, brisk, acid. Ripens late, and in the
mountains keeps until May. Originated in Franklin,
N. C.; one of the very best.

23. Span.—Large, flattened; green, striped with red, a lit-
tle russet about the stem, which is short, thick, in a broad
cavity ; a good acid apple, nearly first-rate; keeps till
January or February; tree upright, thrifty, and a good
bearer.

24. Murray.—Medial, oblong or conical; very regular ;
calyx in a deep basin; stem short, moderately thick, in a
rather deep, regular cavity ; color fine yellow, inclining to
orange ; flavor fine, brisk, subacid; keeps till March. Tree
n good bearer.

* Or Summerour ?—YV B.

382 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

25. Walker’s Yellow—Large, oblong, or oval ; skin yellow,
with a slight bluish to the sun; fine flavored; tree upright
and vigorous; aseedling of George Walker, Esq., Long-
street, Pulaski Co., in the lower part of this State, where
it ripens in October; will prove a fine winter apple in most
of the Southern States.

26. Cullasaga.—Large, regular, alittle conical; skin yel-
low, covered with fine crimson stripes; calyx small, ina
moderate basin; of pleasant, aromatic, subacid flavor; a
first-rate apple, and keeps well.

27. Berry—tLarge, roundish, slightly flattened, regular ;
skin yellow mottled with dots, covered with broad stripes
of dark red; stem medium cavity broad, calyx in a broad
shallow basin. Flesh yellow, firm, rich, of slightly acid
flavor. Tree thrifty, upright and very prolific. Ripens
late in October, and keeps through the winter.

28. Disharcon—Large, regular, slightly conical; calyx
small in a narrow basin, skin yellowish green, with many
roundish spots made darker by minute specks. Flesh of
fine aromatic subacid flavor, resembling that of the New-
town Pippin. Early winter, or late autumn.

29. White—Medium to large, regular, slightly conical ;
calyx ina hollow basin; color lemon yellow, with spots and
splashes made darker by minute black specks on a greenish
ground. Flesh crisp, tender, juicy. Keeps until January.
Rather acid for the table, but fine for cooking.

30. Catooga—Large to very large irregular, broadest at
the base; yellow mottled, with black dots, and sprinkled
with flecks of green, stalk of medium length, slender;
cavity deep, calyx open in a deep basin. Flesh yellowish,
with a mild“pleasant subacid flavor.

31. Camaks’ Sweet—Fruit, medium to large, roundish,
conical; whitish green, mottled with green russett, the
patches of which are made up with small dots, with a fine

THE APPLE—VARIETIES. 383

flush, or red cheek towards the sun; flesh firm, searcely
sweet, juicy and fine flavored, very good, stalk short,
cavity and basin broad ; calyx closed December.

32. Never Fail—Medium, roundish, conical, greenish
yellow, a little russeted, striped and nearly overspread
with red; stem short, in a small regular cavity; calyx
small, nearly closed; flesh yellowsfirm, with a rich aro-
matic sub-acid flavaor. Ripens in December.

33. Queen—Size, medium to large; form ovate, very
regular; calyx slightly sunk; stem three-fourths of an
inch long; color, a fine golden yellow. Very beautiful,
and quality first-rate. | |

34. Wall_—Large, oblong, flattened at each end, slightly
ribbed ; color, dark green, nearly covered with dark red ;
calyx large. Of fine quality, and tree prolific.

35. Mangum.—Size medium, regular, slightly conical ;
stem small, in a narrow cavity ; color green, nearly over-
spread with large red stripes. Of excellent quality, and
keeps till March.

36. Norton.—Large, roundish, regular; color, green,
broadly striped with red. A beautiful and good fruit which
keeps till May. Tree vigorous and prolific. |

37. Red Warrior —Fruit very large, form nearly globu-
lar, but a little angular ; color orange yellow, striped and
marbled with bright and dark red, with a few dark brown
spots sprinkled over it; stem medium size, three-fourths
of an inch long ; cavity medium ; calyx closed in a smooth
deep basin; flesh white, moderately acid, with plenty of
juice ; quality very good. Montgomery, Ala., Dr. Bald-
win keeps till March a first-rate variety for winter.

38. Carter —Fruit roundish, narrowing to the eye ; size
medium to large; color fine orange yellow in shade, nearly
overspread with smooth blended red towards the sun;
the yellow is speckled with faint russet; stem three

3884 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH. |

fourths of an inch long, fleshy, springing from a wide deep
cavity ; calyx large open in a wide deep, somewhat ribbed
basin. Very highly spoken of at the fair for 1856, at
Montgomery, Ala. In a milder climate is said to hang on
the tree until January. Probably the best winter apple
for the climate of middle Alabama, Miss., &c.

39. Oconee Greening is said to be a very fine winter
apple, in appearance much like Disharoon with which it
may prove identical.

For a select list, Mr. Van Buren recommends Red June,
Bruce, Julien, Bough, Cane Creek, Toccoa, and Defiance,
for summer. Disharoon, Tender Skin, Batchelor and Fall
Pippin for the middle season, and Nickajack, Camak,
Sweet Cullasaga, Wall, Catooga, Berry, Maverick Sweet,
Shockley, Neverfail, and Duckett for winter.

For a select list, I would recommend Nos. 3, 4, 6, 10,
12, 14, 15, 16, 20,21, 22, 26, 27,-28,-31; 32, so;taayewe
Mostly native Southern varieties, and whatever else we
buy abroad, it is certain that our apples should be got from
our Southern Nurseries.

Ribes—CuURRANT AND GOOSEBERRY.
Ribes Rubruwm—CuRRANT.

The currant is a low shrub, a native of Great Britain
and the northern parts of Europe and America, with
smooth branches, doubly serrate pubescent leaves, and
yellowish green flowers, appearing early. The fruit rip-
ens with the later strawberries and raspberries. It suc-
ceeds and thrives admirably in our mountain sections, and
will live and bear tolerably well here in a cool, northern
exposure; but would probably die out, the first summer
near the coast. ;

The fruit is of an agreeable acid taste—ripe, it is used

THE GOOSKBERRY. 3885

%

with sugar at the dessert; and also alone, or mixed with
raspberries, for jams, jellies, and wine; and both green
or ripe for stewing, tarts, and pies. In cool climates, it is
the most easily cultivated and most useful of small fruits.
Medicinally, it is like the lemon and other subacid fruits,
cooling and antiscorbutic. When perfectly ripe, it is use-
ful in some cases of diarrheea. The jam of black currants
in sore throat is useful.

The currant is propagated by cuttings, which should be
planted in the fall in a shady situation. It requires moist,
rich, deep loam, and should be trained asabush. It bears
on wood of previous year’s growth; but mostly on two
years old wood. As soon as the fruit is off, thin out the
old wood, leaving only stems of the present and last year’s
growth. Clip off three or four inches of the former to
make a growth of spurs for the next crop.

Varieties. — Red Dutch. Fruit of large size, oblate,
borne in large clusters, and less acid than the common red.
Color fine transparent red.

White Dutch.—Large yellowish white, less acid than
the red kinds. :

Black Naples (Ribes nigra)—is the largest and best of
the black varieties; but none of these are desirable.

Ribes Grossularia — GOOSEBERRY.

The Gooseberry like the currant is a native of Europe.
.Green, it is used for pies, tarts and puddings —- ripe, it is a
very agreeable dessert fruit. But it is even more impatient
of heat than the currant, and cannot be expected to thrive
except among our mountains. It is propagated from cut-
tings, likes the same soil and exposures, and is cultivated
in exactly the same manner as,the currant. It has in one
or two instances produced fruit here from imported plants,
but they have been very short lived, yielding only one or

17

386 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

two crops. Our gardens can be occupied with more produe-
tive and desirable kinds of fruit. Houghton’s seedling i
the hardiest variety.

Rubus — RASPBERRY AND BLACKBERRY.

Rubus Idens —RASPBERRY.

The Raspberry plant has small shrubby stems of bien
nial duration, but perennial roots. ‘The leaves are pinnate.
The flowers appear in panicles on the new growth upon
last.year’s canes — the fruit ripens in a few weeks after the
flowers appear. It is a native of both continents in low
moist situations. The fruit is highly grateful, being fra-
grant, cooling, allaying heat and thirst, of a pleasant sub-
acid flavor and is much esteemed either alone or in connec-
tion with the currant for preserves, tarts, sauces, jellies,
jams, and ices. Wine is made of the juice by the addition
of water and sugar. Raspberry shrub, a refreshing drink,
is made of the unfermented juice, by adding sugar and
water. Currant shrub prepared in the same way, is still
more cooling. Raspberry juice, like that of strawberries,
dissolves the tartar of the teeth, and the fruit never ferment-
ing in the stomach may be used by invalids.

This plant flourishes on deep, rich, moist loam. A bot-
tom near a stream is the best location. If this is not to
be obtained, trench the ground deeply and mulch during
the summer. Permit no grass or weeds among the bushes.
Raspberries grow admirably where they can receive the
drainage of buildings. Downing says a slight dressing of
salt is a valuable application. The raspberry is propaga-
ted from suckers or offsets from the mainroots. Itmayalso
be raised from seed by which new varieties are obtained.
Seedlings bear in two years. In planting offsets two or
three are planted together to form astool in rows five feet
asunder and three feet in the row. The black Raspberry

THE RASPBERRY VARIETIES. 387

is propagated by layering the branches. When the crop
is gathered, cut away all the wood, and leave but five of
the new canes. Manure the ground, in autumn, with a
coat of swamp muck or leaf mould, which dig in. In the
spring cut off from six to twelve inches of the young shoots
as the extremities are feeble and worthless. Mulch in
April, directly after a good rain, with leaves, pine straw, or
litter. By cutting off the canes near the ground in the
spring, later fruit may be obtained. A plantation will con-
tinue in bearing five or six years. The fruit is better
where the canes are neatly tied to rods or low espalier rails.

Varieties —The American Black, and a variety known
as the English, succeed finely here. Mr. Affleck, of Miss.,
finds the Yellow Magnum Bonum productive and deli-
cious. We describe those most worthy of trial; but, so
far, the black is worth all the others.

Antwerp Red—tLarge, conical; dull red; fiesh firm,
rich, juicy, sweet, and high-flavored; canes moderately
strong and pale brown ; leaves, large.

Antwerp Yellow—Large, nearly conical; pale*yellow;
sweet and excellent; canes strong and vigorous; light
yellow, and spinous; bears a long time.

American Black (Rubus occidentalis )—Small, flattened ;
black, or dark purple, with a whitish bloom; later, and
more acid than the preceding; the well-known Thimble-
berry, succeeds well here. From its rich, acid flavor, it
is the best variety for cooking, as in tarts, pies, puddings,
&c. It is much improved by pruning and culture, and
should be set at wider distances than the other varieties,
because it grows more rampant. Ohio Ever-bearing is a
variety of this, but bears through the season.

Francoma—Fruit large, obtuse, conical, dark purplish
red; of rich, brisk acid flavor; canes strong, spreading,
branching, yellowish brown, with scattered stout spines;

888 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

leaves narrow, long, deep green. Said to bear abun-
dantly.

Fastolff—Very large, roundish, conical; bright purplish
red; tender, rich, and high-flavored ; canes strong, erect,
eatacleones | with strong spires.

Cushing —Originated by Dr. Brinckle, of Philadelphia.
A fine new crimson sort, which will doubtless succeed here
here better than the European yarieties. The same

remark will apply to Brinklé’s Orange, and Wilder, both —

of which are light-colored varieties.

Rubus Villosus, &c.— BLACKBERRY.

The blackberry is a native American plant, found
erowing abundantly from Labrador to the Gulf of Mexico.
The Rubus villosus, or High Bush, which includes several
varieties, and Rubus canadensis, both produce excellent
fruit. The wild fruit is so abundant in most localities, that
it will be long before it comes into general cultivation.

Use-—The blackberry is an excellent dessert fruit, con-
tinues a long time in bearing, and is also used for tarts,
pies, puddings, jams, and preserves. From the juice a
palatable wine is produced. The ripe fruit eaten fresh, or
preserved, is found useful in summer diseases.

The blackberry will grow in any soil, but is produced
in the greatest perfection in that which is deep, rich, and
moderately moist, especially if newly cleared from the
forest. It abounds in all rocky lands, by the side of old
fences, and other spots rich with vegetable mould. Ashes,
swamp-muck, or leaf-mould, composted with animal matter,

are the best manures. It is best propagated by offsets se- —

lected from those plants producing the best flavored fruit.
It is cultivated like the raspberry, entting away the old
wood, &c., in the same manner.

The High Bush, in its varieties, is perhaps worth culti-

THE GRAPE-VINE. 889

vating. Fruit large, long, ovate, bright black; tender,
juicy, and sweet, with an agreeable bitter, or rather aro-
matic flavor; growth upright, becoming recumbent at the
top. There is said to be a white variety. One, more
common, is of light red color, with fruit sweet and good.
We have also a variety in this State with blossoms per-
fectly double, but the fruit is abortive. The New Rochelle
is probably the best variety now known. The fruit is the
shape of Hovey’s strawberry, very pulpy, and of excellent
flavor, and continues for some weeks in use.

Vitis of Species—THE GRAPE-VINE.

The vine was one of the first plants brought into culti-
vation. The foreign grapes are all varieties of Vitis Vinifera,
and came originally from Asia. Of native grapes, we
have Vitus Labrusca, of which the Isabella, Catawba, and
Diana are varieties; Vitis Cordifoha and Vitis Aistivalis,
from one of which the Hlsinburgh and Ohio originated ;
Vites Rotundifolia* which is the parent of the Scuppernong,
our most valuable grape, and some other species from
which no valuable varieties have yet been produced.

Of the other fruits, as the apple, pear, &c., we are cul-
tivating kinds removed many generatians from their na-
tural state, and improved in quality by a long course of
culture; but our American grapes are chance seedlings of
the wild varieties taken within a few years from their
native woods. Seedlings from these generally revert to
the original wild species; but the Catawba is the parent
of the Diana grape, one degree further removed from its
original type; from this we may expect seedlings will be
derived, still more improved, until they rival in sweetness
and freedom from pulp, the fine European varieties.

Foreign grapes do not generally succeed in our climate.
The exceptions are the Black Burgundy, the Sherry, and

** Michaux and Le Conte.

390 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

the Devereaux; but the latter is claimed as ee.
Another variety, the Delaware county, which is claimed
to be identical with the Traminier, a European grape, is
found to do well at Cincinnati; the identity of the two
is however disputed. All the foreign grapes succeed well
both north and south in cold graperies, z.e. under glass
without fire-heat.

Vines, both native and foreign, attain great age; some
of the latter are known to have lived three hundred years,
and how long they were planted before the record began
is not known. Vines, three feet in circumference, are not
uncommon in Europe and America.

The grape is a cooling and refreshing fruit of the high-
est excellence; green, it is used for pies and tarts; when
ripe, it is nutritious and medicinal. It is used in cases of
dysentery, being diuretic and laxative, allaying thirst and
reducing heat ; it is also employed in pulmonary disorders.
It is a most agreeable dessert fruit; and is Hkewise used
for preserving, jellies, &c. The dried fruit or raisins are _
employed extensively for the dessert, and in many prepa-
tions of cookery. The leaves are an elegant garnish to
other table fruits; but the chief product of the grape is -
wine, which is superior to that made of any other fruit.
That derived from the pure juice of the grape “is in all
cases of langour and prostration of strength, and in the
convalescence from protracted fever, the most grateful and
efficacious cordial known.” Ina state of health, however,
the highest medical authorities tell us that “ it, at least, is
useless, if not absolutely pernicious.”

The wine of the grape is superior to that of any other
_ fruit, because its acid, (the tartaric,) is insoluable in alco-
hol, hence as the must ferments and alcohol is formed, the
acid suspended in the juice subsides, and combined with
potash also in the juice, settles in the lees. Thus tho

ANALYSIS OF THE GRAPE-VINE. 391

stronger the wine becomes by age and fermentation, the
less acid it contains. Citric and malic acids, which exist
in other fruits, are not thrown down in the lees by the
formation of alcohol, and the wine from these is, therefore,
inferior, and liable to acidity.

Large quantities of an excellent and wholesome wine

are made near Cincinnati from the juice of the Catawba
grape. The natural juice produces a specie of hock; but
wines, resembling Champagne and Maderia, and believed.
to be quite as good, are also produced. Wine in cooler
latitudes always has more aroma or boquet than in warm
climates, but the wine of the latter has more strength. A
good wine is said to be produced from the Scuppernong
grape. Excellent wine has been made from the Catawba,
by Mr. Axt,at Washington, in this State.

Position and soil.—A hill side, on account of its superior
drainage, is preferred for a vineyard. The soil should be
a dry calcareous loam with a porous subsoil. If the soil
does not abound in lime, it should manured with lime and
ashes.

ANALYSIS OF THE WILD GRAPE.

WOOD. BARK, LEAVES

Potash, 20.84 1.77. 13.394
Soda, A206) 020 + 9.698
Chlorine 0.02 0.40 0.741
‘Sulphuric Acid, 0.23 trace 2.062
eee of Lime, } 15.40 5.04 35 959
“ Peroxide vane » 1.20" 5104
Carbonic Acid, 34.83 32.22 3.050
Lime, WSs pao. es tae &
Magnesia, 440 0.80 1.740
Silex, 280 14.00
Soluble Silicia, } Ne nee tes
Coal and Organic matter, 2:20 © 70
Organic Acids, 2.250

101.31 100.86 99.926

392 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

Lime, potash and phosphates, are the mineral consti-
tuents mostly required. Potash, freely applied, is thought
to improve the quality of the wine produced.

~For vineyard culture of the Catawba grape, the ground
should be subsoiled with a plow, or deeply trenched. A
declivity should be thrown into terraces, with a slight
inclination to the hill, that the water may be collected
there, to be carried thence to the main drains. The Ca-
tawba grape* is planted by the wine-growers on level
ground, in rows seven feet apart, and four feet in the row,
but on hill sides three by five feet apart. The vineyard
is laid off witha line and astake put down where each vine
is to grow; then a broad hole a foot deep is dug, in which
are placed two cuttings, six or eight inches apart, at the
bottom, in a slanting position, but with the top eyes only
about an inch apart, and even with the surface—throw in
a shovelful of well-decayed leaf mould, that the cuttings
may strike freely. Cover with an inch of charcoal dust or
light mould, when the cuttings are planted. The cuttings
should be short jointed and well ripened, each cutting con-

taining about four joints. Cut them off close to the lower
‘ joint, and about an inch above the upper. The earth

should be pressed closely around the cuttings. The best
time for putting them out is the last of November or De-
cember. The finest vines are raised from cuttings where
they are to stand. Being undisturbed by removal, they
are more thrifty and longlived. Remove all the cuttings
but one, if more than one succeeds, and use them to re-

| plant where others have failed. During the summer keep
| the ground clean and light by repeated hoeings, and pull

off superfluous shoots, leaving but one or two to grow at

| first, and one eventually. Next spring cut the vine down

| to two buds—one of which remove when the vine shoots,

| * Bee Buchan on Grape Oulture.

THE GRAPE-VINE. 893

and drive a stake seven feet long to each plant. Chestnut
charred at the end is very good; but locust and cedar
make the most permanent posts. ‘Tie the young vine to
the stake, remove all the suckers, and allow but one cane to
grow. Keep free from weeds, and cultivate as.before.
The next spring cut down the three buds, and the year
after to five, and this year train two canes instead of
one. ‘The pruning should take place from November to
the last of February. 'The third or fourth year, according
to the strength of the vine, cut down the weakest cane to
a spur of two or three eyes, and select the best shoot of
the preceding year, cut it down to six or eight joints, bend
it over in the form of a hoop, and tie to the stake, or
fasten it to the adjoining stake in a horizontal position.

&

17g THOMA, (p84 eS? ee ae—

PRUNING THE VINE.

Fig. 1, Vine at the end of the second year, from a cutting, or the first after a
Rooted vine is planted out,

Fig. 2, Vine at the end of the succeeding summer.

Fig. 3. Vine at the end of fourth from a cutting pruned in the bow form,
Fig. 4. Vine pruned after the renewal system.

a Point where the shoots are to be cut off in pruning.

b Places of removed shoots,

¢ Bearing shoots.

The bow form is the best. Training the vine in this man-
ner checks the flow of the sap, and causes the buds to
break more evenly, retarding growth, and increasing pro

i

894 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

ductiveness. ‘To do it, bend the shoot in a cireular form,
and fasten the top within three or four inches of the stake,
having previously made a tie at the bottom and another
at the centre of the bow. From this bow the fruit is to be
produced the current year, and the bearing wood of next
year from the spur left for this purpose. The next winter
this bow isto be cut away, and the bow for another crop
is formed from the best brauch of the new wood of last
year. Keep the old stalk within eighteen inches of the
ground. Tie the vines carefully, without breaking them,
in damp weather, when the buds are swelling, the last of
February or early in March. In the summer, remove
suckers, and pinch off lateral shoots, leaving but two for
the next year. Pinch offthe ends of the bearing branches
when they blossom, some three joints beyond the
last blossom bunch. Remove no leaves from the bearing
wood, but unnecessary lateral shoots may be pinched
off when small. The object is to throw the strength of
the vine into the fruit and the next year’s bearing branches.
_ ‘The vineyard should be heavily manured once in two

or three years. Wood-ashes and gypsum are good appli-
cations, and are thought to prevent the rot. The trim-
mings of the vines dug in, are found beneficial ; but leaf-
mould well rotted, by the addition of lime and ashes, is
the best application... Vines highly manured, and allowed
to grow rampant, covering a large space, will produce a
weak and worthless wine, and continue in bearing but two
or three seasons.

Where grapes are liable to rot, it is best, for the more
desirable kinds of table fruit, to train them to a trellis
eight or ten feet high, and protect them by a coping of
boards, projecting over one foot on each side of the trellis.
This coping protects the plants from the heavy dews and
excess of moisture, and seems nearly as efficacious as a

\*

THE GRAP-EVINE. 395

eold grapery. Set the vines six or eight feet apart, or
raise them from cuttings at that distance, as before directed.
Cut back the second year’s growth of the cutting (the first
if a vine is planted) to two buds the next winter. Allow
these the ensuing season, to form two upright shoots (as
in the bow method before described), which should be fas-
tened to stakes. The next winter form the trellis by setting
a post two feet deep, and firmly inthe earth, between every
two vines. ‘T’o these attach the coping, and let the post at
each end of the boards be of unequal length, varying an inch
or so, that the water may run off. The bars may be made of
laths, or No. 10 or 12 wire, fastened by staples. The first
bar should be one foot from the earth, and the others should
be that distance apart. Now bring down the two upright
shoots, and fasten them each side to the lower bar of the
trellis. Shorten them at two and a half to four feet from
the main stem according to the distance between the vines.
The next season, allow upright shoots to grow a foot
apart, and stop them when they reach the top of the trel-
lis. The trellis is now full of vines. E

After the trellis is filled with upright shoots ,as above,
in the renewal system of training, at the next pruning
every other upright shoot is cut down within an inch of
the main arm of the vine. The upright shoots that are
left will bear, the coming summer, and from the stump of
each upright cane removed, a young shoot is trained to take
its place the succeeding year. At the next winter prun-
ing, this is left to bear fruit, and the shoots which bore the
preceding season are c&t down in their turn to an inch of
the main arm, from which young shoots are trained to pro-
duce fruit a year after. In this mode of pruning both na-
tive and foreign vines, the largest bunches and the best
crops for a course of years are obtained.

The plan of protecting Grapes by a coping to prevent

396 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

rot, has been tested several years by Mr. Van Buren, and
was very naturally suggested by the fact that grapes
trained to a piazza or a house, when sheltered by the pro-
“jecting roof, are generally free from decay. Vines planted
for experiment, with one half under a coping, and the
other half exposed, have ripened perfectly where protected,
and rotted badly where exposed. Vines are thought not
so liable to rot when allowed to run high.
The Scuppernong Grape never rots, being protected by
its thick skin; hence for our climate it is the most valuable
of all grapes. It likes a good dry soil and plenty of room.
The vines should be, at least, thirty feet apart. It bears
better when trained over an arbor. It seems to need lit-
tle pruning—the only care required, is to add to the scaf-
folding, year after year, as the vine extends. The vines
should be trained evenly over the arbor, and not allowed
to run together in a mass. Vines covering one or two
thousand feet of scaffolding, and increasing in productive-
ness and extent, every year, are not uncommon, and the
' quantity of grapes such a vine has produced, has been
‘nearly thirty bushels. This vine will not readily grow
from cuttings, but is propagated solely by layers, which,
put down in the winter or spring, may be taken up
safely the ensuing winter. Stake them the first year and
begin to make the arbor the second. Fruit will be borne
the third year after planting.

Ashes, lime, rubbish, and its own leaves, are the best
manure. The fruit of the Scuppernong is in fact almost too
luscious, and hence is not as wholesome as the other culti-
vated varieties. All the culture this Grape requires is to
keep soil free from weeds, until the vine begins to cover the
arbor, when its shade and droppings will kill everything
beneath it.

Wine—The best wine produced in this country is that

THE GRAPE-VINE. 397

made at Cincinnati from the Catawba grape. 'The grapes
are not picked until dead ripe; all green or decayed ber-
ries are removed from. the branches; they are then bruised
in a mashing tub or passed through a small wooden mill,
mashing the skins and pulp, but not the seeds. It is bet-
ter to stem the grapes before pressing, which is done by
running the mashed grapes through a wire screen with the
meshes three-fourths of an inch apart. When shaken, the
pulp and skins fall through, and the stems are thrown out.
The pressing’ is now performed. A strong, tight box plat-
form, six feet square, and six inches high at the sides, is
made of two or three inch plank, and tightly wedged together
in a heavy timber frame; a hole is made in the front to
permit the juice to flow out into a tub. On this platform a
box, five feet square made of one and a quarter inch boards,
ten inches high at the sides, and with holes at the lower
edge, is placed to receive the mashed grapes; boards fitting
loosely inside this box, are placed on the pile of mashed
grapes, and pieces of scantling are laid across these to receive
the pressure. ‘This is applied by means of a lever and screw,
until the juice is extracted. The outside of the cheese has
to be cut off and thrown on top two or three times and re-
pressed, to extract all the juice. The must should then be
placedin clean casks, for fermentation. Everything used in
wine-making must be scrupulously clean, whether press, ves-
sels, or casks, or the aroma-and flavor of the wine will be lost.

At Cincinnati, with the Catawba grape, no sugar is
added ; but casks are filled with the juice within six inches
of the bung, which is put in loosely, to allow the gas to
escape without the wine running over; a cool dry cellar,
is the best place for fermentation. In two or three weeks
fermentation ceases, and the wine becomes elear, when the
casks are filled and the bungs tightened. The wine is
racked off the ensuing February, into clean casks, which

398 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

are bunged tightly, and there left to improve by age. If
racked more frequently, its acidity is increased; it will do
to bottle when a year old; but if allowed to stand two
years it will be better. A good wine is preduced from
Herbemont’s Madeira, by the same process.

In this climate, as the grape ripens before the weather
becomes cool, wine cannot be kept without the addition of
sugar to the must, or brandy to the wine. Mr. Weller of
North Carolina, adds three pounds of double refined sugar
to each gallon of Scuppernong must. The cask must be
well shaken. Mr. Herbemont used to add from two to two
and a half pounds of sugar to the gallon of Herbemont
Madeira juice. The same object is better obtained by the
addition of good brandy to the wine as soon as properly
fermented. Mr. Weller added to the must one-third pure
brandy, shaking the cask well several times, the first week.
Half of each of the above amounts of sugar and brandy
may be added, instead of using either alone; but it seems
almost incredible that so large an amount of sugar or
spirit is required; yet the amount varies with the heat of ~
the climate and the ripeness of the grapes.

In a cooi climate, two gallons of brandy to the barrel is
sufficient, if the wine is kept in cellars, and racked off at
at the bottom, when the crust at the top begins to break,
into casks fumigated with sulphur. Ina hot country, the
amount of brandy must, as we see, be largely increased.
The wine must be closely watched, and if disposed to fur-

her fermentation, more brandy must be added.

If wine is turbid, it can be fined with the white of eggs ;
ne egg for every six gallons. The whites are well beaten,
nen put into a tub, into which the wine is drawn, and
while running, the whole is well churned and beaten

briskly until the cask is drawn off; it is then returned to
the cask which should not be quite full. The froth pro-

THE GRAPE-VINE. 899

duced should all go back into the cask, and the top of the
wine should be stirred; the cask is then bunged up and
left until the wine is clear; the froth produced aids in the
process of fining.

A fine, sparkling, or Champagne wine, is produced by
the addition of Rock Candy to each flask, when the wine
is bottled. The amount required is not divulged.

FOREIGN VARIETIES.

Delaware Cownty—A small grape, color of Catawba ;
bunches small; skin thin, transparent; juice brisk and
vinous; one of the best table grapes. Vine like the
foreign grape—said to be the Traminier grape of Germany.
Succeeds well in New Jersey and Ohio. Worthy of trial. |

Devereaux.—The best foreign grape for open air culture.
Branches about six inches long, shouldered ; making them
some three inches broad at the base; berries generally
with one seed, medium, round, very compact or crowded
on the bunch; skin thin, black and covered with blue
bloom; flesh juicy, with a brisk, agreeable flavor, much
better than the native grapes. A great bearer and free
from rot. Ripens middle of August.

Sherry.—Bunches medium size, shouldered, compact ;
skin thin, black covered with blue bloom ; berries round,
medium size, with one stone; flesh very juicy, rich, high-
flavored and exceedingly sweet—much better than Blue
Frontignan. Resembles Devereaux, and may be identi-
cal; but the bunches are not so large and the berries are
more sugary and high-flavored; this may be an accident
of aspect or soil. Does not rot. The best grape cul-
tivated here. .

The Black Cluster, Blue Frontignan, Early Chasselas,
Black Hamburgh and Miller’s Burgundy, if well cultivated
and protected by a coping, succeed here.

400 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

NATIVE GRAPES.

Bland, or Bland’s Madetra.—Bunches long and loose;
berries round, on long stalks, hanging thinly ; skin thin,
pale red when ripe; flesh slightly pulpy, of sprightly
delicate flavor, a little astringent; foliage light green,
smoother and more delicate than that of the Catawba;
ripens last of August; cuttings do not readily strike ; it
often drops its leaves before the fruit ripens, which de-

stroys the flavor.
Catawba.—Bunches of medium size, shouldered, some-

what loose; berries large, round; skin rather thick, pale
red in shade, but deep red in sun, with lilac bloom; flesh
slightly pulpy, juicy, very sweet, with an aromati¢
rich, musky flavor; ripens last of August. A hardier
grape than the Isabella, and the best of all for wine.
Diana.—A Catawba seedling; resembles its parent in
buuch and berry, but with less color; berries round, juicy,
rich, sweet and musky. Ripens middle of August.
Isabella.—Bunches large, rather compact, shouldered;
berries large, oval, purplish black, with blue bloom; skin
thick ; flesh tender, with little pulp, juicy, sweet, with
slight musky aroma; liable to rot and requires a coping.
A better grape to my taste than Bland or Catawba.
Ripens August 15th.
Lenoir —Bunches large, compact, sometimes shouldered ;
berries small, black, free from pulp, sweet, and palatable.
Norton’s Virgina.—Bunches long, sometimes shouldered ;
rather compact ; berries small, round; skin thin, dark pur-
ple. Notavery good grape for the dessert. Always bears,
is free from rot, and is as hardy as a Scuppernong.
Ripens middle of August. Said to make a tolerable wine.
Ohio— Bunches very large, shouldered; berries smal:

THE PLUM. 401

black, sweet, and free from pulp. Does well on an arbor.
Requires long pruning.

Scuppernong ( Vitis Rotundifolia )—Bunches very small,
with from two to four, and seldom over six berries, which
are round and large; skin very thick, light green, marked
with yellow dots; flesh pulpy, juicy, sweet, and of rich,
luscious flavor. The best of all grapes for ordinary cul-
ture in this climate. Must be trained on arbors. Does
not grow from cuttings readily.

Warren ( Warrenton, or Herbemont’s Madeira )—A native
of this State, and long known as the Warrenton, whence
obtained by Herbemont, who gave it his own name.
Bunches of medium size, long, sometimes shouldered ;
berries round, medium size, and rather closely set; skin
thin, dark purple, with light bloom. Grapes on the same
bunch do not color evenly, varying from a light to a dark
purple; flesh tender, melting, free from pulp ; flavor sweet
and pleasant, when fully ripe. An enormous bearer. Prob-
ably it would ripen more uniformly, if the bunches were
properly thinned. A fine dessert and wine grape, though
somewhat subject to rot. ‘The wine can scarcely be dis.
tinguished from Spanish Manzanilla. Clermont, Marion,
Zane, and Imitation Hamburgh, are new Ohio grapes, of
good reputation, not yet tested at the south. Harris and
Long are two good southern grapes, fully equal to the
foregoing. Brinckle, Cassady, Clara, Concord, Emily,
Graham, Raabe, and Thurmond are all new varieties, of
excellent flavor, but of which the merits are hardly known
yet. ‘The latter is of best quality.

Lizephus Sativax.—JvsiuBE PLuM.
This fruit has been cultivated at Augusta, Ga., by Mr.
Change and by Mr. Chisholm, of Beaufort, S.C. It is
a small tree, or thorny shrub, from the south of France,

402 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.

bearing an oval, reddish plum, about the size of an olive,
and enclosing an oblong stone pointed at both ends. It
is of a sweet, clammy taste, from which the “Jujube
paste” is made. It is served up at the table, in Italy and
Spain, during winter, as a dry sweetmeat. Thetreeisgrown —
in hedge-rows, about Genoa and Nice. Seeds have been
sent out from the Patent-Office. They would probably
require avout the same culture as the pomegranate.

CONTENTS.

Introduction 2

FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF GARDENS
IN GENERAL.

Aspect . - -
Budding 5 . .
Bones 5 :
Cultivation with the Hoe
Cuttings
Cold Frames .
Depth of Soil
Destruction of Vermin
Form
Fencing
Forwarding Early Crops
Frost, Protection from
Grafting
TAPIA NIE Bb: “ 4
“* — Modes and Time of
Sa 2500)
4 Cleft
* Root
Advantages of .
Hoeing
Hedges
Hot-beds
Inarching .
Insects
Implements
Layers -
Laying out Gardens “
Manures

“ Salt and Lime Mixture

“ Saline -
“* Vegetable
“ Green

“« Animal . ~*

104

Manures: Night Soil

ce Bone .

“ Special
Mulching . as :
Number of Plants to an Acre

Offsetts
Profits of Gardening
Propagation of Plants

ef by Seed

be by Division
Pruning : A

‘* General principles of

Protection from Frost .

' Plowing, subsoil .

Rotation of Crops
Situation .

Size
Soils

“ Depth of

“ Jmprovement of

“ Subsoiling of

“ Trenching °
Sub-successions ‘ zs
Seeds : :

“ Sowing and Preserving

“* Duration of vitality of

“ Sowing and Germinating o
Suckers - °
Slips - : : é
Spading : - °
Training . a ° .
Transplanting ° °
Watering

PAGE

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

PAGE
Asparagus - : 4 148
Artichoke . - - . 215
Artichoke, Jerusalem . : 227
Beet . : - - Remelsye
Beet,Common . s : 156
Borecole—German Greens . A alee:
Brocoli . > : ‘ 177
Basil . : : . 285
Bush-Beans, or Bade i “ 240
Beans, Poleor Running . . 242
Burnet . 5 5 . 249
Bean, English Broad ; . 281
Ciboule, or Welsh Onion : 129
Chives, or Cives : : . 133
Celery . 135
Celeriae, or Tarip-Rootell Galen 142
Cross, American : : . 156
Cress, Winter 5 : 156
Chard (Swiss), or White eee ah LG
Cabbage Tribe, The - R 162
Cabbage : : : . 164
Cabbage, Savoy ° : 171
Cauliflower . 174
Cabbage, Turnip — fiery: anisetat
Cabbage . : eS
Cucumber y ; 202
Chufas, or Earth Aandi : , 220
Carrot : : : - 221
Chinese Yam A A . 224
Corn Salad, or Fellices . . 227
Cress . : 3 : . 285
Chervil . 4 2 ; 258
Corn, Indian : ; . 282
Endive. ; 187
Egg-Plant, or Gaines Baan . 265
Farragon - : : 148
Garlic ‘ : + Ay
Hop : : ; z 230
Leek . 3 5 ‘ =) 129
Lentil : : : : 226
Lettuce : : : . 231
Mushroom - 5 : 116
Marigold, Pot z f > 18d

Melon 2 re “ : 207
Marjorum . : “ . 287

Mustard . 2 :

Nasturtium, or Indian Cress

Onion Tribe, The

Onion, The

Onion, Potato . °

Onion, Troe or Button

Orach : <

OETA. 3 - °

Parsley . 3 .

Parsley, Hamburgh

Pea, Ground

Pepper :

Potato,Sweet . :

Pumpkin ; 2 :

Parsnip

Pea, English

Potato :

Rocombole . x .

Roquet

Rape 5

Rape, Wiible-ranteds or French
Turnip

Rampion .

Radish, Horse

Radish . “ .

Rhubarb : : A

Shallot, or Eschallot

Sprouts, Brussels
Scurvy-Grass

Sea Kale ;
Squash. . =
Sorrel x : :
Savory . .
Scorzonera . > :
Skirret . : 5
Spinach 5 :
Spinach, New Zealand -
Salsify, or Vegetable hie

Turnip

Tanyah

Tomato . 5 A
Thyme : .
Vegetable Marrow .
Watermelon . : 5
Watercress re °

961

PAGE
259
280
120
121
125
126
155
228
148
145
146
186
192
214
287
245
268
134
183
183

183
185
189
250
253
132
172
191
197
212
256
257
258

274
277
279
179
184
262
278
214
211

Angelica . ‘
Anise .

“Borage

Balm

Bene

Chamomile

Carraway .

Coriander ' -
Clary 5 : -
Dill

Elecampane

Fennel

Hyssop. °
Horehound

Almond .

Apricot 5

Apple, The c
Blackberry . °
Chestnut, and other Nuts
Cherry ;

Currant ie es .
Fig

Gooseberry 5

Grape-Vine, The ,
Grapes, Native ;
Mulberry

MEDICINAL HERBS.

308

319

3t1

. 388

. 321
. 822
884

Liquorice
Lavender
Peppermint
Pennyroyal
Rosemary
Rue . :
Southernwood
Spearmint
Sage

Thistle, Blessed
Thoroughwort, or Boneset

Tansy
Wormwood

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

Nectarine
Orange, The .
Olive :
Peach

Plum
Pomegranate
Pear

Plum, Jujube
Quince
Raspberry
Strawberry

rAGE

291
293
293
294
296
297
289
294

297 |

290
291
299
289

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