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Gardening for the South;
OR,
HOW TO GROW RVKVVKVVVVN
VEGETABLES AND FRUITS.
BY THE LATE
WILLIAM N. WHITE,
OF ATHENS, GA.
THIRD EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED.
eau 8) ere
P--H. MELL, Ph: D.,
Professor of Botany and Geology, Alabama Polytechnic Institute, Director of Alabama
Agricultural Experiment Station.
WITH MANY ILLUSTRATIONS.
RICHMOND, VIRGINIA:
B. F. JOHNSON PUBLISHING COMPANY.
1901,
THE LIBRARY OF
CONGRESS,
Two Copies Received
WL. 8 1901
CopyriGHT ENTRY
G, 190)
Lass AKxe. Ne.
I2756
COPY 8.
Copyright, 1901,
By Po Hi. MELE, fap.
CONTENTS.
What Science Has Done for Gardening, A
Preface to the First Edition, : ‘ 5
Preface to the Second Edition, . A “
Preface to the Third Edition,
CHAPTER I.
Formation and Management of Gardens in General,
CHAPTER II.
Soils—Their Characteristics,
CHARTER e UIE
The Improvement of the Soil,
CHAPTER IV.
Fertilizers and Manures,
CHAPTER. V.
Rotation of Crops,
CHAPTER VI.
Hot Beds, Cold Frames, Pits and Greenhouses,
@ CHAPTER VII.
Packing and Marketing the Crop,
CHAPTER VIII.
Insects, Fungi and Plant Diseases,
CHAPTER IX.
Propagation of Plants,
CHAPTER X.
Budding and Grafting,
CHAPTER XI.
Pruning and Training,
39
45
51
80
oO
(oe)
4 CONTENTS.
PAGE
CHAPTER XII.
Transplanting, : ; : : . ee ‘ 2 230
CHAPTER XIII.
Mulching, Shading and Watering, : ° z » 241
CHAPTER XIV.
Protection from Frost, i : 5 - A _ =< 2b!
CHAPTER XV.
Vegetables—Varieties, Description and Culture, ° ° - | 261
CHAPTER XVI.
Fruits—Varieties, Description and Culture, ° 5 - 456
CHAPTER XVII.
Tables and Useful Formule, 4 D : 4 A - 646
GARDENING FOR THE SOUPEL
What Science Has Done for Gardening.
No one profession can stand alone without the support
and help of other allied callings. The man who says
that he can successfully conduct a market garden, or a
farm, without the assistance of scientific thought and
investigation is not well informed as to how much he is
really dependent on what science has done, and is doing,
for his profession. If he says that he has no patience
with “ book farming,” and attempts to conduct his busi-
ness with methods and implements in use fifty years
ago, and declines to read and keep up with the progress
of the times, he will soon find to his sorrow that his
neighbors who do read and profit by what intelligent
investigation is bringing to light, are far outstripping
him in the improvement of their gardens and in the
profits they are reaping by placing on the markets early
vegetables and fruits.
This is the age of the printing press and thousands of
thoughtful, earnest investigators are sending out by its
means vast stores of valuable, practical information to
him who will read and profit thereby. Practical men
and women must read and learn what the rest of the
world is doing if they expect to keep up with the pro-
gress of events. The competition in all departments of
tilling the soil is now so great, that the most successful
gardener or farmer is that man who not only accumu-
lates books, but also is a diligent reader and a student
in his profession, always looking out for new and
improved ideas to enable him to produce the best and
largest crop possible on his land with the least amount
14 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
of money and expenditure of labor. This chapter is
not written for such wide-awake people, but it is pre-
pared with the hope that the few who still condemn
“book learning” may be convinced by argument and a
presentation of an overwhelming array of facts that they
are under great obligations to the results of the work
and thought of scientific investigators.
It is due entirely to science that the insect enemies
of vegetables and fruits have been so carefully cata-
logued and described, and remedies discovered for
destroying them and holding them in check. Millions of
dollars have been saved to the gardener and the farmer
in this one item of contribution from science. The inves-
tigations made on the subject of plant disease and the
remedies used to keep the plant in a healthy condition are
the work alone of scientific brain and energy. The eradi-
cation of many of these troubles has made it possible for
the gardener to cultivate certain vegetables and fruits
which was next to impossible prior to the assistance
rendered by the scientific investigator. What a boon to
the cultivator of the soil is spraying! Yet scientific ex-
yerimentation developed the spraying machine and the
composition of the ingredients which make up the spray-
ing mixtures.
The introduction of many of the best fruits and vege-
tables is largely due to the effort and forethought of our
scientific men. The delightful Japan plums, the Japan
persimmons, the many varieties of the citrus fruits, and
the great improvement of the grape are well known
illustrations of this fact.
Chemistry, among many other aids it has rendered to
the gardener and the farmer, must be given full credit for
placing the science of fertilization in the front rank of
important factors. How crude and unsatisfactory were
the methods of supplying plant food to the soil until the
WHAT SCIENCE HAS DONE FOR GARDENING. 15
commercial fertilizers were given to the agricultural
world, and the fraud in the manufacture was eliminated
by the analytical skill of the chemist. A few years ago
the terms phosphoric acid and potash were known and
understood by a few, but now they are common words
in the vocabulary of the most ordinary gardener and the
most obscure farmer. And yet this is the work of the
chemist, and to him only must the gardener render
thanks for the great benefits accruing to the land and
plant in the use of fertilizers.
The improvement of the soil by cultivating leguminous
plants in order to accumulate nitrogen from the atmos-
phere is a well-known fact, but the discovery of the germ
principle, by which the plants have the power to extract
this nitrogen from the air, was made in the laboratory of
a German ‘scientific investigator. Because of this dis-
covery it is now possible to successfully cultivate peas,
beans, clovers and other similar plants in localities where
before the discovery of this germ principle it was next to
impossible to secure satisfactory results.
Science has even stepped in to instruct on the subject
of the cultivation of the soil, and much that is now
known on this question is due to the investigations con-
ducted at the State Experiment Stations under the
direction of men with scientific training on such subjects
as: (1) Why shallow plowing should be resorted to in the
cultivation of certain plants which develop a large system
of surface roots; (2) under what conditions deep plowing
should be done, and (3) why the land should not be plowed
while in a wet condition; (4) the value of rest to the land,
and (5) the rotation of crops.
Most that is known in reference to irrigation and the
value it is to those sections of the country where long,
dry seasons are common must be credited to scientific
research. Irrigation has made it possible to reclaim land
16 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
which was formerly a barren waste and make it produce
in abundance many of the plants beneficial to man.
To the list of benefits conferred on the gardener by
the scientific student must be added the power to repro-
duce our finest fruits by grafting and budding, making
it possible to perpetuate the tree that has been improved
to the point of maturing excellent fruit some time before
fruit will ripen on the ordinary tree under the usual
cenditions. The great strides made in the selection of
vegetable seeds, so that the purest seed and the most
healthy plants may be secured, must be credited to the
United States Department of Agriculture through the
painstaking efforts of its scientific workers. The develop-
ment of new and improved varieties of plants by crossing
and by hybridization could only be possible through the
intelligent experiments of a mind fully cognizant of the
scientific laws governing the growth and the develop-
ment of flowers and seeds. In this connection may be
mentioned as a matter of illustration the splendid work
accomplished by T. V. Munson, of Texas, and others in
increasing the number of fine new grapes and extending
the list of this delightful fruit. Within very recent times
the United States Department of Agriculture has suc-
ceeded in producing by hybridization hardy orange
plants, so that it is now possible to develop this fruit
as far north as Southern Georgia with safety, and the
indications seem to point to the chance of growing this
plant as far north as Augusta, Georgia, without fear of
destrncetion during our ordinary winters. Some of these
hybrids are now growing in the horticultural grounds of
the Alabama Experiment Station at Auburn, and the
experiment will be made during the coming winter to
continue the growth without any more protection than
is usually given to peach trees, with the hope that the
experiment will be successful.
WHAT SCIENCE HAS DONE FOR GARDENING. aly
In the matter of frost warnings to the market
gardeners it will be interesting to know how much
money is saved annually in the timely warnings from the
Weather Bureau at Washington of the approach of cold
raves, so that the delicate plants might be protected ;
and yet this is the work from its inception of scientific
thought and under the management of scientific ob-
servers,
Again, in the improvement of the implements used
to-day in the garden and on the farm, how much of the
energy of the tiller is economized with such satisfactory
results in the character of the work accomplished, and
who will say that these improved machines and tools are
not the outcome of careful training in scientific methods,
with a knowledge of the principles controlling physical
and mechanical laws? In the evolution of the modern
plow from its primitive ancestor the wooden beam; the
improved Planet, Jr., cultivator, with its many con-
venient tools when compared with the old-style hoe
and rake; these, with many other improved tools that
might be mentioned, should convince any one of the great
assistance science is rendering the tiller of the soil in
simply this one branch.
The United States Department of Agriculture has
spent millions of money in the past years for the benefit
of the gardener and the farmer. It is certainly true that
no one is prepared to say that this wealth has been
thrown away, and that the agriculturist has not been
vastly benefited by its expenditure in his behalf. The
work of this great department has been almost entirely
in the hands of scientific men of well-known ability; and
thousands of pages of practical information and con-
tributions to knowledge have come from their efforts,
attesting the great value of their investigations to the
“man with the hoe.”
2
18 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
The State Experiment Stations have been in existence
only twelve years, and yet in that short time the re-
searches made by the scientific staff have introduced
new methods of planting and cultivating which the
gardeners have found superior to those in practice before
the establishment of these stations. The hundreds of
bulletins treating of every subject relating to plant
erowth and animal economy are in growing demand, and
they are being read by thousands of people interested in
the farm and the garden who uttered anything else but
a kind word in behalf of the stations when Congress
made the appropriation for their maintenance in 1887.
The foregoing argument in defence of the position that
science has rendered incalculable service to the gardener
is sufficient justification for the reappearance of this book,
and the hope is entertained that the work will receive a
hearty welcome among those for whom it was written.
Preface to the First Edition.
I have thought that, upon a subject so accordant with
my tastes as is horticulture, I might prepare a work
adapted to our climate and useful to the public. The
repeated inquiries made of me, as a bookseller, for a
practical treatise on the subject, and these inquiries
growing more frequent with the manifest growth of the
gardening spirit among us, led to the undertaking. Yet,
written as it has been, in the intervals of trade and sub-
jected to its constant interruptions—now advancing but
a line at once, again a page, or an article—suspended
totally for nearly two years, then hastily finished, looked
over, and printed under circumstances that rendered the
author’s revision of the proof impossible—many defects
of style, and errors of the press, are manifest. These, if
the work contain the information sought, practical men
will readily excuse in a first edition.
To claim much originality in a modern work on garden-
ing would display in its author great ignorance or great
presumption. If it did not contain much that is found in
other horticultural works, it would be very defective.
rardening is as old as Adam, and what we know to-day
of its principles and operations has been accumulated,
little by little-—the result of thousands of experiments
and centuries of observation and practice. Hence, from
the gardening literature of our language, have been se-
lected, for this work, those modes of culture which consid-
erable experience and observation have proved adapted
to our climate. The species and varieties of plants found
here most desirable for use or ornament have been se-
lected and described. This mass of material has been
20 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
modified and increased by pretty copious garden-notes of
my own. Still, it has been my object to make a useful
and reliable, rather than an original work. Where an
author’s language suited my purpose, it was at once in-
corporated into the text. If the expression is sometimes
changed, it is generally to make it more concise. * * *
The necessity of a Southern work on gardening is felt
by every horticulturist in our midst. Our seasons differ
from those of the Northern States in heat and dryness, as
much as the latter do from those of England. Treatises
perfectly adapted to their climate we are obliged to fol-
low very cautiously. English works require the exercise
of a still greater degree of judgment, in the reader, the
climate of England being still more cool and humid.
Again, our mild winters admit of garden work nearly
every day of the year. All the heavy operations of trench-
ing, manuring, laying out, pruning, and planting trees,
shrubs, and hardy ornamental plants, are at that season
most conveniently performed. In this particular aspect
our climate is much like that of the south of England.
Hence, while the calendars of operations, in works pre-
pared for the Northern States, seldom agree with our
practice, those in English works are often found to coin-
cide with it. But even where the time of performing cer-
tain operations is the same in both countries, the long,
dry summers, and still milder winters of this climate,
often render necessary a peculiar mode of performing
the same.
We teed, then, works upon gardening specially adapted
to our latitude and wants. But with the exception of the
valuable matter scattered through our agricultural and
horticultural periodicals, Holmes’ “Southern Farmer and
Market Gardener,” written some years since, and briefly
treating of the kitchen garden department merely, is the
only work containing anything reliable on the subject.
PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDITION. yak
The chief original features, then, of this work are, that
it endeavors to give more or less information upon the
whole subject of gardening; and information, too, that is
practically adapted to our climate, habits, and require-
ments. In the fruit garden department, especially, a good
deal of new matter is to be found. Throughout the entire
‘work processes are frequently described, and methods of
culture given, which are suited only to climates and
seasons like our own. Those varieties of plants and trees
are pointed out which experience has proved are best
adapted to our orchards and gardens. * * * *
Unusual prominence is also given to the general sub-
ject of manures, as they are the foundation not only of
successful gardening, but of profitable husbandry.
Besides the various works consulted, the experience of
horticultural friends has been freely communicated.
Valuable hints have been derived from Rey. Mr. Johnson _
and Mr. Thurmond, of Atlanta; Professor J. P. Waddel,
Dr. M. A. Ward, and Dr. James Camak, of Athens; Right
Rey. Bishop Elliott, of Savannah; Dr. J. C. Jenkyns and
Mr. Affleck, of Mississippi; and especially from J. Van
Buren, of Clarksville, Georgia, whose successful efforts
to make known and diffuse native Southern varieties of
the apple rendered him a public benefactor. It is hoped
we shall yet see a work on fruit trees from his pen.
If this treatise, with all its imperfections, shall in any
degree increase the love of gardening among us; if it
shall cause orchards to flourish, shade trees to embower,
and flowers to spring up around any Southern home, the
author’s purpose is accomplished.
Wm. N. WHITE.
Athens, Ga., 1856,
Preface to the Second Edition.
The revised edition of “Gardening for the South” was
mainly prepared by our lamented friend, W. N. White,
the author of the first edition, whose sudden death left
the work in an incomplete state. At his special request,
made while on his death-bed, we have undertaken to
finish the work begun by him, to the best of our ability,
and while we do so, we ask the indulgence of the reader
to pass over and forgive any imperfections he may detect,
for we feel conscious of our inability to present to the
public as perfect and interesting a work as would have
been done had the author been permitted to have
finished it.
The necessity for.a new and revised edition must be
apparent to every reader, as the former edition was pub-
lished in 1856; since which time the discoveries, improve-
ments, and progress in Agriculture and Horticulture have
been very great.
Ten years’ additional experience in Agriculture and
Horticulture by the talented author of the first edition is
our warrant for recommending the present work to the
favor of the public, as few men were more ardently
devoted to the culture of the soil than he was.
Should opinions and facts be found stated in the
present work at variance with those in the former edition
it will be attributed to the experience alluded to above,
for with him it was always a pleasure to acknowledge an
error when it was found to be such. Many and valuable
additions have been made to all the departments, and
more particularly to the lists of varieties, both of vege-
94 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
tables and fruits, together with the improved methods of
cultivation, as the object of the author was to present to
the public a practical work adapted to the soil and
climate of the Southern States.
J. VAN BUREN,
Dr. JAS. CAMAK.
Athens, Ga., 1868,
Preface to the Third Edition.
It has been thirty years since the last edition of this
important work was issued, and such great changes
have taken place in all departments of horticulture
within this period that a new edition of the book has been
long demanded.
Many varieties of vegetables and fruits now popular in
the South were unknown twenty years ago, and some
that were cultivated in those days have been supplanted
by other varieties of superior quality. The character and
composition of fertilizers have also undergone great
changes, and remarkable advancement has been made
by the introduction of the numerous brands of commer-
cial manures. Certain methods of cultivation also differ-
ing from those in practice some years ago have become
popular, and are now in general use throughout the
country.
A great impetus has been given to gardening in the
South by the many excellent bulletins which have been
issued from the Experiment Stations of the several States
on the subjects of botany and horticulture, so that the
science of cultivating the fruits and vegetables has
become almost a new profession. The man who is now
guided by a book written twenty or thirty years ago will
be far behind the times in nearly all departments of
planting and cultivating.
For these reasons there has been a demand for many
years on the part of the people of the South for a revision
of White’s Gardening.
In rewriting the book liberal use has been made of the
26 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
bulletins of the Agricultural Experiment Stations, the
publications of the United States Department of Agricul-
ture, botanical, horticultural and agricultural magazines
and papers and standard works on gardening. Some of
the illustrations have been culled, with the consent of
the authors, from the publications of P. J. Berckmans,
L. H. Bailey, G. F. Atkinson, F. V. Coville, H. N. Starnes,
R. L. Watts, Peter Henderson, Samuel H. Rumph, John-
son & Stokes, George L. Taber, and Vaughan Seed Com-
pany. To Professor F. 8. Earle, biologist and horticul-
turist of the Alabama. Experiment Station, special
acknowledgment is made for suggestive and valuable
criticisms.
P. H. MELL.
Auburn Alabama, January, L901.
GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
CHAPTER. I.
FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF GARDENS IN GENERAL.
SrruaTion.—The situation of the flower garden and
lawn should be immediately adjacent to the dwelling, in
order to yield the highest degree of pleasure. The most
satisfactory arrangement is to form the lawn directly in
front, and the flower garden on the side, sufficiently near
to be overlooked by the drawing-room windows, while
the sides of the dwelling, in part, and its entire rear, in-
cluding the kitchen and servants’ yard, are sheltered and
concealed by trees. A dwelling thus embowered in well-
erown trees is always regarded with pleasure. As neither
the fruit or kitchen garden, especially the latter, can be
considered ornamental, they should not, though near the
dwelling, be placed obtrusively in view. Near they should
be, for if-either is distant, time is lost in watching its
progress; it is in danger of being neglected; and even if
this is not the case, its choicest products may gratify the
palate of any one besides its owner. A good arrange-
ment is to place them in immediate connection with the
pleasure-ground, proceeding from the shrubbery to the
fruit department, and thence to the kitchen garden. The
latter should also have an independent approach. — It
should be near the stables, in order that it may be
copiously replenished with manure without too much
labor.
Much, however, depends upon the soil. The best at
28 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
command, in the vicinity of the dwelling, should be
chosen. Proximity to water is also highly important,
especially if it can be readily employed for irrigation.
Low situations are more liable to late and éarly frosts,
but their abundant moisture renders them desirable for
summer crops. A diversity of soils and exposures in the
same inclosure is desirable.
Care should be taken that the productiveness of the
kitchen garden be not diminished by the proximity of
large trees, which are injurious by their drip to all plants
beneath them, and by their shade and extended roots to
those more remote. The small, fitrous roots of trees
extend far beyond their branches, and one is not safe
from these devourers much short of the length of the
stem which they nourish. If trees exist too valuable to
be removed, dig a deep trench near them, and cut off all
roots that extend into it. This will probably relieve the
adjacent crops from their injurious effects.
ASPECT AND INCLINATION.—A light exposure to the
south is generally to be recommended. Gardeners take
pride in having early crops, and this compensates in some
measure for their shorter duration in such an exposure.
A northeastern aspect is to be avoided, as our worst
storms are from that direction. A northwestern exposure,
though cold and late, is less liable to injury from late and
early frosts, as vegetation in such situations is sheltered
somewhat from the rising sun, and does not suffer so
much if it becomes slightly frozen. It is not the frost that
injures plants so much as the direct heat of the sun fall-
ing upon the frozen leaves and blossoms. Hence an
easterly aspect is generally objectionable for tender
plants.
Cabbage, cauliflower, strawberries, spinach, lettuce,
and other salads are much more easily brought to perfec-
tion in a northern aspect. Many of these run up to seed
FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF GARDENS. 29
immediately if exposed to the full sun. Of fruit trees the
apple succeeds well on a northern slope. The soil, too, is
usually richer, and will retain its fertility longer, other
things being equal, in such an exposure. It is a great
advantage, if the garden slope at all, to have it slope in
more than one direction, thus giving a choice of exposure,
and generally also of soil, as it is thereby adapted to both
late and early crops. But when the drainage is good, a
level is to be preferred, as by the aid of the fences any
desired exposure can be obtained for particular plants.
Indeed, in southern climates nothing after quality is more
to be regarded than the inclination of the soil.
Whatever be the situation or aspect, a garden must be
as level as possible. Any considerable inclination in a
southern latitude subjects the richest portion of the soil
to the danger of being washed away by its violent storms.
In the rich, mellow soil of a garden cultivated as it should
be, if there be much perceptible slope, a single storm will
often cause a loss of manure and labor that will require
considerable expense to repair. If the ground is not level
at first, it is necessary to resort to hillside ditching or to
throw it at once into terraces of convenient breadth. To
do this the eye cannot be trusted; a levelling instrument
is required. The steeps of these can be clothed with
Kentucky or Texas blue grass, or strawberry plants, to
prevent them from washing.
Each terrace must be so raised just at its edge, that it
will retain all the water which falls upon it, permitting
none to flow over even in the heaviest storms. Any excess
of water should be carried off by proper underdrains, if
needed, and not suffered to run off the surface. Surface
ditches are a poor substitute. Terracing is not very
expensive. The horizontal line is first determined with a
level and staked off. A few turns of the plow are made
on the hillside just below the stakes, and the earth
30 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
thrown up with a shovel to the staked line. If more earth
is required, the plowing and shovelling must be repeated
until a sufficient bank is formed to retain the water.
During the first year, occasional breaks in the bank may
happen from violent storms, but if well repaired, after
the banks become settled, they will rarely be broken over
by the accumulation of water, particularly if proper
underdrains or surface ditches are provided.
SizH.—A garden should be proportioned to the size of
the family, and their partiality for its different products.
A small garden with a suitable rotation of crops, and well
manured and cultivated, will yield more pleasure and
profit than an ordinary one of three times its size. An
active, industricus hand can take care of an acre, pro-
vided with necessary hot-beds, cold-frames, etc., keeping
it in perfect neatness and condition; or if the plow and
cultivator be brought into requisition, as they should be
in large gardens, four times that amount can be under
his care, provided there is not much under glass. |
If but little room can be allowed near the house, cab-
bages, carrots, turnips, potatoes, and the common crops,
can be grown in the field, if well enriched, and be culti-
vated mainly with the plow. The fruit garden should be
in a separate department, as the shade of the trees is
very injurious, and the exhaustion of the soil by their
roots still more so. Moreover, the heavy manuring re-
quired for the vegetables will not do so well for fre
culture. The trees will also be in the way of the cultiva-
tors used in working the vegetables. Dwarf pears upon
the quince stock are the least hurtful, and may be ad-
mitted into the vegetable department along the walks.
Form.—The form will often depend upon the situation
of the garden or the inclination of the ground. When
a matter of choice, a square or parallelogram is most
convenient for laying out the walks and beds. A parallelo-
FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF GARDENS. il
gram extending froni east to west gives a long south wall
for shading plants in summer, and a long, sheltered bor-
Fig. 1—Garden Plan.
der for forwarding early crops. An oblong shape has the
further advantage of giving longer rows for the plow or
cultivator.
32 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
LAYING OuT.—A convenient plan is given in Figure 1.
The borders aa should be amply wide, in large gardens
as much as twelve feet. The space b is laid out for the
asparagus bed; ¢ the cold-frames; d the hot-beds (in those
sections of the South where needed); e the tool-house;
h may be used for grapes, an arbor or a fountain as de-
sired. The remainder of the space is taken up with walks
and the plots ff. The walks next the boundaries should
not be less than four and a half feet in width. The long
central walk should be at least five or six feet wide, so as
to admit a cart. In this case the main walk should pro-
ceed, as in the figure, from th entrance to near the far-
ther border, where a portion should be taken off of the
adjacent plots to form a circular turning place for the
cart and other vehicles brought into the garden. Plows
are used so much in the cultivation of the garden that
it is best to make the plots ff without the usual cross
walks. In this case the borders should be made of suffi-
cient width to give room enough for all those vegetables
which will not permit cultivation with the plow. Where
only the spade and hoe are used, in quite small gardens,
the plots ff may be subdivided into smaller ones by walks
three to four and a half feet wide, extending from the
borders to the main walk; and a portion of these plots
should be laid out each year in beds four feet wide for
onions, beets, carrots, etc. The earth should be dug out of
the main walks four inches deep and spread evenly on
each side over the adjacent ground. These walks may be
covered with’ gravel, so that they will be kept dry and
attractive; or fresh tan-bark, if the garden is located
convenient to a tanning establishment, may be used in-
stead of the gravel. The bark will keep out the weeds
for two years, when it should be used as a dressing for
the strawberry beds, and its place filled with a fresh sup-
FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF GARDENS. 33
ply. No more alleys and walks should be made than are
required for convenience in the gardening operations.
Figure 2 is another design for a vegetable garden with
the fruit orchard and ornamental grounds attached. This
pian was adapted for this book by the permission of the
editor of “American Garden.”
NUT SR EES
VEGETABLE GARDEN SMALL FRUITS
VINEYARD
PEACHES
Fig. 2—General Plan of Grounds. Adapted from ‘‘American
Garden,”’ July, 1894.
Box is the best edging wherever it succeeds, which it
does admirably throughout most of the South. All main
walks should be wide enough for two persons to walk
abreast, for which not less than four and a half feet are
required.
Planting vegetables for market requires a_ slight
3
34 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
alteration in the plan proposed for the home supply. In
this case, of course, the planting should be on a large
scale, and the vegetables should be arranged in long
rows or drills, so as to permit of cultivation with the
horse and plow. There is not much attention paid to
laying out walks and dividing the land up into systematic
and permanent plots, as in the case of the home garden,
but vegetables of the same kind are planted together in
the most convenient form for easy cultivation and har-.
vesting. In all other respects, however, the rules govern-
ing one apply with equal force to the other method of
gardening. In harvesting and preparing the vegetables
for market the reader is referred to the chapter devoted
to that subject.
FENCING.—The objects of fencing are to procure shelter
for delicate plants from cold winds, also shade for those
that require it, and, above all, to keep out of the garden
intruders of all kinds, that the owner may enjoy its fruits
without molestation. A high, close board fence, or a stone
or brick wall, tolerably answers the purpose; but the only
thing to be relied on is a living hedge. The Osage Orange,
the Pyracanth, the Cherokee and single White Macartney
roses thrive in the South, and are all good for this pur-
pose. Osage Orange plants may be raised from seed, or
bought at the nurseries. The Pyracanth, or Evergreen
Thorn (Cratoegus pyracantha), will make a hedge as effect-
ual as the Osage Orange, and, as it is an evergreen, is
much the more desirable. The blossoms in spring are
very showy, and it is covered in winter with bright scarlet
berries, and hence it is often called the Burning-bush.
It grows freely from cuttings in sandy soil, but these
cuttings should remain in the nursery-bed a year, to
become well rooted before use. Citrus trifoliata, or Japan
Hardy Lemon, is considered by P. J. Berckmans as the
coming hedge plant for defensive as well as ornamental
FORMATION AND MANAGEMENT OF GARDENS. 35
purposes. It requires but little trimming after the third
year. It makes an attractive appearance in spring by its
numerous white flowers. Ligustrum amurense, or Privet,
is another hedge plant that is well known for satisfactory
results. Mr. Nelson gives the following directions for
planting and trimming a hedge, which apply equally well
to Osage Orange and Pyracanth:
“PLANTING.—Iirst dig a trench where the hedge is
intended to be grown, two spades deep, throwing the
surface to one, and the subsoil to the other side; then
throw the surface soil down on the bottom of the trench,
and if it is very poor, add a little manure, or good surface
earth. Autumn is by far the best time for transplanting,
and it can safely be done as soon as the leaves are
dropped. Cut down the plants to within four inches
above the roots before planting. Several authors recom-
mend planting in double rows, but I decidedly prefer a
single one. Assort the plants in two parcels, those of
large and those of small size, and lay the smaller ones
aside for the richest ground. Stretch the line firmly, and
place the plants in as straight a line as possible, one foot
apart; fill up the trench with earth, leaving about two
inches above ground; press the earth not too firmly, but
water plentifully, and after that, level the whole nicely.
“TRIMMING.—It is perfectly useless to plant a hedge
and leave it to be killed by weeds, or grow without trim-
ming. A young hedge will require the same amount of
labor as a row of Indian corn.
The plants having been cut
down so much, will, of course,
start vigorously the ensuing
spring.
spray the canes and the Young. 6, Half grown. c¢, Egg
. . cluster. d, Same, from side. e,
“4 o o r as = ; ;
uns foliage with a solu Same, fromabove. /f, Adult, wings
tion of Paris green (one closed. g, Same, wingsopen. «¢, f,
pound to 150 gallons OL g, natural size; a, b, slightly en-
water). Ea rly in the larged; d, e, considerably enlarged.
ERS i Rectles i Howard, Div. Ent. U. 8. Dept.
spring the eetles are Agri. Cir. 10.
rather sluggish, and they
may be shaken on to cloths which are saturated with
kerosene. They will die as soon as they come in contact
with the kerosene.
HARLEQUIN CABBAGE Bua (Murgantia histrionica,
Hahn).—This insect is also known in some sections of the
South as the “Lincoln bug.” The full-grown insect is
striped with orange and black; it is about one-half inch
long, of an oval, flattened form. The eggs are laid and
hatched within two or three days, and the bugs at once
132 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
begin extracting the juices from the plant and continue
to do so throughout their entire life.
Plants Injured.—Cabbage, mustard, turnips, rutabaga,
radish.
REMEDIES.—The only sure remedy is hand-picking in
the early spring, when the first bugs are noticed. Radish
and rutabaga seed might be sown to serve as catch plants,
and as soon as the bugs are detected on these plants
vigorous Spraying
with kerosene emul-
sion and hand-pick-
ing will soon greatly
. reduce the pest. The
ordinary application
of Paris green fre-
quently fails to kill
them, because they
live by sucking the
.. juices and not eating
y’ the leaves, hence the
| poisons do not enter
Fig. 35—June Bug. Lachnosterna Gen Riley, their bodies» when
Div. Ent. U. §. Dept. Agri. sprayed on the sur-
faces of the plants.
JUNE BEETLE; WHITE GRUB (Lachnosterna fusca, Riley).
The beetles fly about during the months of May and June
feeding on young and tender twigs of fruit trees. The
work of destruction is done at night. This beetle is well
known to children, who delight in catching and imprison-
ing it with a string to hear its buzzing sound. The eggs
are laid about the roots of grass and, when hatched, the
erubs feed on the roots of young plants for three years
before they come forth in the winged state.
Plants Injured.—Peach, cherry, fig, strawberry.
REMEDIES.—F all plowing to bring the grubs to the sur-
INSECTS, FUNGI, PLANT DISEASES, ETC. 133
face and expose them to fowls and cold weather. Hand-
picking in the evening and early morning when the beetle
makes its appearance on the trees. A vessel containing
kerosene is held under the limbs and the beetles are
shaken into it.
LEAF-FooTep PLANT Louse (Leptoglossus phyllopus,
Linn.).—This has become a very common insect in the
South, and it commits its damage by sucking the juices
from plants and fruits. It is well recognized by the
chocolate color of the
body and leaf-like form
of the shanks. The
eg@s are deposited
along the ribs of the
leaves. It is found in
most portions of the
Gulf region.
Plants Injured.—Cu-
curbits, sweet pota-
toes, watermelons, pe- Fig. 36—Leptoglossus phyllopus. Twice
can trees, pear, peach, natural size. Chittenden, Diy. Ent.
/ L / . .
U.S. Dept. Agri. Bulletin No. 19.
strawberry, Irish pota-
toes, orange (first came into prominence in the South as
a pest on the orange trees*).
REMEDIES.—Hand-picking is the certain remedy, but
many of the younger forms can be destroyed by a free
and frequent use of kerosene emulsion.
MELON LOUSE (Aphis gossypii, Glover).—This insect is
There are three
called “cotton louse,” or “orange aphis.’
forms found on the plants—viz.: (1) the “ nymph,” or the
recently hatched lice, which are very small and of a
greenish-yellow color; (2) wingless females, yellow in
* i. H. Chittenden in Bulletin 19, n. s., U. S. Dept. Agri., Div. Ent.
134 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
color; (8) winged females, quite small, ovate with trans-
parent wings containing yellow veins.
Plants Injured.—Red clover, orange, melon, purslane,
morning-glory, cotton, pear, dwarf bean.
REMEDIES.—Spraying with kerosene emulsion and
pyrethrum.
MELON WorRM; MELON BorRER (Jargaronia hyalinata,
Linn.).—These worms bore into the melon and eat long,
irregular holes, caus-
ing the rind to sour
and decay. The eggs
are laid on the vines
early in the season
by a _ moth with
white transparent
wings . containing
black borders. The
first brood hatched
feeds on the vines
and leaves, while
the second and fol-
lowing broods de-
stroy the fruit.
Plants Injured.—
Melons, cucumbers.
REMEDIES.
_ Fig. 87—Margaronia hyalinata. Larva. Co- Spraying of Paris
coons and adults. Comstock, Diy. Ent, ereen during the
eeaea-ceh tina time the first brood
is eating. After the worms enter the fruit, poisoning will
not avail, and it will become necessary to destroy the
fruit infested.
THE PEACH-TREE BormR (Nannina exitiosa).—The moth
comes abroad from midsummer until October. Its body
9)
ise)
INSECTS, FUNGI, PLANT DISEASES, ETC. 1
is of steel-blue color, with an orange band around the mid-
dle of the abdomen of the female. Her wings are blue,
while those of the male are clear and glossy. The eggs are
deposited the latter part of summer, at the base of the
trunk, on the soft bark; when hatched they bore their
way under the bark, sometimes proceeding upwards
along the trunk, at other times downward into the root.
Its presence is made known in spring by the effusion of
gum; as it does not penetrate the wood, it is easily traced
by its holes under the bark. The worm is soft, white, with
Fig. 88—Sannina exitiosa. a, Adult female. 6, Adult
male. c, Full grown larva. d, Female pupa. e¢, Male
pupa. /f, Pupa skin extruded partially from cocoon.
All natural size. Marlatt, Div. Ent. U. S. Dept.
Agri. Cir. 17.
a tawny, yellowish-red head, and sixteen feet, growing
to over half an inch in length. It forms a tough, pod-like
cocoon on the side of the root, jutting just above the sur-
face. Remedies are various. Haul the earth from the
collar of the tree, clean away the gum, and cut out the
grub with a knife and kill it; or pour scalding water into
his haunts from the spout of a tea-kettle, which will kill
the grub and benefit the tree; leave the basin about the
root of the tree open, and re-examine a few days later,
as some of the worms may have escaped. Where the
mercury does not usually sink below &° during the win-
ter, it is best to leave the collar of the tree uncovered
136 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
and exposed to the action of frost during winter. In
spring a small mound of ashes, or slaked lime, or even
earth, should be placed about the base of the trunk, which
will render the borer less likely to attack the tree. This
should be removed or spread out around the tree in
autumn. The trees should be closely examined in autumn
and spring. There are also certain washes recommended
to prevent the insect from entering the tree. Two may
be mentioned. The first is very poisonous, and must be
used with great care:
1—Soft soap, 10 gallons.
Corrosive sublimate, 4 ounces.
Alcohol, Spits
Dissolve the sublimate in the alcohol and add the soap.
2—Sour or buttermilk, 10 gallons.
Hydraulic cement, 10 pounds.
These washes must be put on with a brush, repeating
every two weeks until after the moth disappears. Apply
the solution from below the ground to several feet above.
THE ONION-FLY (Phorbia ceparum, Meiger) is a native of
Kurope, of late years becoming common in many Ameri-
can gardens, and wherever-found is very destructive to
the crop. The parent insect is a small ash gray fly, about
half the size of the common house-fly. The female lays
her eges on the leaves, when they are very young, close
to the earth. As soon as the maggots hatch, which is
when the young plants are about the size of a quill, they
descend between the coats of the onion to its base, feed-
ing upon the bottom part of the bulb, which soon becomes
rotten, when the worm leaves it, to enter the earth and
complete its transformations. Figure 39 represents the
larva of the natural size at a and at b, magnified several
times. Figure 40 shows the way in which the insects
work upon the young plant. In Figure 41 the perfect
INSECTS, FUNGI, PLANT DISEASES, ETC. 137
insect is given, the natural size of which is indicated by
the cross lines, and in the same figure the magnified pupa
or chrysalis is shown at d, and the actual size at ¢.
REMEDIES.—These insects increase so rapidly that un-
less destroyed at their first appearance, which is shown
by the leaves drooping and turning yellow, it is almost
impossible to eradicate them. Such plants should be at
once pulled up, and with the soil in which they grew,
burned, which will prevent their increase. Applications
of soot or salt upon the beds, of lime water, stale urine,
and tobacco water, are also employed, and beds strewn
with fine charcoal are said to be less liable to attack. It
is difficult, however, to reach the insect, except by pulling
up the bulb. It is said that removing the earth from the
onion bulbs as soon as growth has well commenced will
prevent the fly from depositing its eggs, and the onion,
being nourished by its fibrous roots, ripens and keeps
better.
Professor Slingerland, entomologist of the Cornell
Station, New York, recommends spraying with the fol-
lowing: Dissolve one pound soap in half gallon water and
emulsify with one pint of crude carbolic acid. Spray
freely over the plants as soon as above the ground and
every few days after.
138 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
THE CURCULIO, OR PLUM WEEVIL, (Conotrachelus Nenu-
phar, Herbst), is a short, thick, rough beetle, of a dark-
brown or blackish color, varied with spots of white and
|
=
Fig. 42—Curculio or Plum Weevil. Conotrachelus nenuphar, Her.
Riley, Div. Ent. U. 8. Dept. Agri. Report 1888.
yellow; with a long snout hanging down in front like an
elephant’s trunk. It makes a small, crescent-like incision
upon the side of the plum and cherry, just after they are
INSECTS, FUNGI, PLANT DISEASES, ETC. 139
set, in which it drops an egg. [From this is hatched a
small, white, footless worm, which bores into the fruit,
causing it to drop prematurely from the tree. The worm
enters the ground, and in three or four weeks comes out,
and the successive broods attack the plum, apricot,
cherry, nectarine, and peach, until the fruit ripens. Their
incisions have been found in the limbs of the pear tree.
The beetle, if discovered, feigns death, and can hardly be
distinguished from the dried flower buds by careless ob-
servers. Picking or sweeping up the fruit as fast as it
drops, and boiling it for pigs, before the worm can enter
the earth has been found beneficial; likewise jarring the
tree (by striking sharply with a mallet on the stump of
a limb removed for the purpose) as soon as the fruit is the
size of a pea, and collecting the insects on a white sheet
as they fall, and destroying them. As the insects are
torpid in the morning, that is the best time for the opera-
tion, which should be kept up until the fruit begins to
ripen. Plant all stone fruits in an enclosure by them-
selves in which pigs and poultry are admitted; these will
collect the fruit as fast as it falls, and tread the ground
firmly together, so that it is not easy for the insects to
enter it. None of these methods will be fully effectual
if there are neglected trees near by from which the insect
may emigrate. The most reliable of them is jarring the
trees, and destroying the insects daily; the next is giving
access to a large flock of ducks and chickens, which, de-
stroying the perfect insect, are a much more efficient
remedy than the pigs alone.
THE SQUASH-VINE BoreER_ (J/elittia satyriniformis,
Hbn.).—This insect feeds on the interior of the stem of
the squash, and its presence is not detected until it has
been in the stem some time, and has grown to a well-
developed larva. The leaves of the plant show the
damage being done by the insect by wilting, and the
140 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
entire plant will soon die unless the insects are destroyed.
The adult insect is a moth which flies during the heat
of the day, and toward the close of day it lights on the
leaves in a rather sluggish condition. The eges are laid
on all parts of the plant, and they hatch from six to fifteen
days after being deposited. The caterpillars are small,
white, with a dark head and a few scattered hairs over
Fig. 43—Melittia satyriniformis. a, Male moth. 6, Fe-
male when at rest. c, Eggs shown on bit of squash
stem; d, Full grown larva in vine. e, Pupa. f,
Pupa cell. AJ] one-third larger than natural size.
Div. Ent. Dept. Agri. Cir. 38.
the body. When full grown they measure about one
inch in length.
Plants Attacked.—Squashes, pumpkins, gourds, musk-
melons, cucumbers.
REMEDINS.—Because the caterpillar is found in the
stem it is very difficult to treat it with spraying methods,
so we are compelled to resort to cutting the insect out of
the stem and to use preventive means. Rotation of crops
will serve to check the troubie; also planting trap crops
and burning these when the eggs are deposited on them.
Fall harrowing and deep spring harrowing have also
been found beneficial in exposing the pupae or cocoons
INSECTS, FUNGI, PLANT DISEASES, ETO. 141
to the cold air and the birds or fowls. This followed by
deep plowing will prevent other cocoons that may escape
from reaching the surface in the form of the moths. Burn
all dead vines and squash rubbish after the squashes are
gathered. During the growing season keep the plants
vigorous and healthy. (Chittenden.)
THE SQUASH Bue (Anasa tristis, DeG.).—This insect is
of a rusty black color above, and yellowish beneath; of a
foul, disgusting smell; of quick motions. It eats the leaf
and stem, and at
length destroys the
stem. It lays its
dark-colored eges
in patches upon the
under surface of
the leaf, to which
they adhere strone-
ly. . AS S00 n° as
hatched, the young a
‘ gee c
er anys it little Fig. 44—Anasa tristis nymphs. a, Newly
Swarms commence hatched. 6, Second stage. c, Third
feeding upon the stage. d, Fourth stage. e, Fifth stage.
Allabout twice natural size. Chittenden,
af, upon its under : a
Hee) MCLEE Div. Ent. U. 8. Dept. Agri. Cir. 39.
side, which soon
withers. They are quite timid, but may be found in the
cool of the day concealed under the leaves or clods of
earth, and should be sought for while the vines are young,
daily, in the morning, and crushed before they become
numerous.
THE TURNIP FLEA BEETLE (Phyllotreta vittata, Fab.).—
This is a small, hard-shelled insect, of a smooth, shining,
brassy, or greenish-black color, about an eighth of an
inch in length. There are two yellow stripes down the
wing cases. The hinder legs are formed for leaping. It
attacks the turnip, and other plants of the same family,
142 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
both in its perfect and larva states. When the plants
have attained some size the injury to the crop is slight,
but they generally take the young plants while in the seed
leaf, and destroy the crop entirely in a few hours,
whether it be a small bed, or a large field.
The best remedies are preventive, such as to roll the
surface smoothly, so that the insects may find no hiding
places in the soil, to sow the seed in drills, and in a fine,
rich soil, and apply super-
phosphate of lime upon
ee raid
{
~~ the seed in the drills, to
b
Fig. 45— Anasa tristis. «a, Mature |
female. 6, Side view of head.
c, abdominal segments of male.
d, same of female. a, Twice
natural size; b, c, d, slightly Vig. 46—Phyllotreta vittata. a,
more enlarged. Chittenden, Larva. 6, Adult. Both great-
Div. Ent. U. 8. Dept. Agri. ly enlarged. Riley, Div. Ent.
Cir. 39. U.S. Dept. Agri. Report, 1884.
apply plenty of seed, and thin out the plants when in
the rough leaf. Anything that will accelerate growth
will soon place the crop out of danger from these little -
insects. Some sow radish seed with turnips, as the flea
prefers the young radish leaf. If they once attack the
plants, dusting them with lime ashes and soot is some-
times useful, but when in great numbers, it is scarcely
possible to save the young crop. Jerosene emulsion
should be sprayed around the roots and stems to destroy
eggs and larvae.
INSECTS, FUNGI, PLANT DISEASES, ETO. 145
THE OYSTER-SHELL BARK LOUSE (Iytilaspis Pomorum,
Bouche).—This is probably the commonest and most
widespread, and consequently the best known, of any of
the orchard scales. It is found all over the world. It is
found in the United States practically wherever apples
Fig. 47—Mytilaspis pomorum. «a, Female scale from be-
low, showing eggs. 6, Same from above, greatly en-
larged. c, Female scales. d, Male scale, enlarged.
e, Male scale on twig, natural size. Howard, Div.
Ent. U. S. Dept. Agri.
and pears are grown. If, during the winter, one of the
female scales be lifted, it will be found to contain the
shriveled body of the dead female, under the anterior or
more pointed portion, while behind this the yellowish-
white eggs are thickly massed together back to the ex-
tremity of the scale. Under each scale the eggs number
from forty-two to eighty-six. The young hatch from these
144 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
eggs in spring, wander out upon the twigs, and settle at
once. With this species the young twigs are generally
the only parts of the tree seriously affected. Older twigs,
however, are also attacked, and many specimens of the
insect may be found upon the trunk. There is generally
only one brood in most sections of the country, although
in’ the. far South
there may be two
broods occurring in
each year. After in-
_ serting its beak and
i settling, the female
molts twice, and be-
gins the formation
of the scale, which is
secreted mainly
from the hinder por-
tions of the body
and extends back-
ward, the two cast
skins remaining in
an overlapping posi-
Fig. 48—Aspidiotus perniciosus. c, Adult onsen ae
female removed from scale, showing em- portion of the scale.
bryonic young, greatly enlarged. d, Anal The male scale is
plate, still more enlarged. Howard. Div. yyych smaller than
Ent. U. S. Dept. Agri.
the female scale, as
indicated in the figure, and is otherwise distinguished
by a few structural peculiarities. In the first place, there
is but one cast skin at its anterior extremity, and in the
next place, the hinder portion of the scale is hinged in
such a way that it lifts up like a flap, permitting the
escape of the adult male. (Howard.)
Plants Attacked.—Apple, pear, plum, quince, raspberry,
currant, maple, ash, elm and other forest trees.
INSECTS, FUNGI, PLANT DISEASES, ETO. : 145
Besides the San Jose scale and the oyster-shell bark
louse there are other scales which are destructive to fruit
and other trees in the South. Among the number may be
mentioned the scurfy bark louse (Chionaspis furfurus,
Fitch); the greedy scale (Aspidiotus camelliae, Sign.); the
English walnut scale (Aspidiotus juglans-regiae, Coms.);
the new peach scale e ALLE Bh) or
(Diaspis lanatus, Mor- Mi ee
gan & Cock.). ay ee yy
REMEDIES.—Two of
our common orchard
Scales, viz., the scurfy
bark louse and_ the
oyster-shell bark louse,
hibernate in the egg
state, and their hatch-
ing is comparatively
uniform. The approxi-
mate date throughout
the middle belt of the
country is from the
middle to the end of Fig. 49—San Jose Scale. a, Young larya,
May. Moreover, the greatly enlarged. 6, Antenna of same,
larvae are compara- still more enlarged. Howard, Div.
tively slow to settle, Ent. Cir. 3, U. S. Dept. Agri.
and the scale at first is not very dense. Therefore,
one, or, at the most, two applications of kerosene-soap
emulsion, diluted with ten parts of water, made about the
first of June, will hold these two species well in check.
(Howard.)
SAN JOSE SCALE (Aspidiotus perniciosus, Comst.).—This
is one of the most destructive insects which attack the
apple. It is becoming very widely spread throughout the
United States, and when it finds lodgement in an orchard
heroic measures are required to eradicate the pest. Great
10
146 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
care should be exercised when purchasing trees to buy
only from those nurserymen who are known to be relia-
ble, and who are provided with satisfactory bills of health
signed by well-known entomologists.
Messrs. Howard and Marlett, of the Division of Ento-
mology of the United States Department of Agriculture,
have made extensive experiments with the various
methods recommended for the destruction of this insect,
and their studies concerning the life history of the scale
SN a=
Fig. 50—San José Scale. Male adult, greatly enlarged.
Howard, Div. Ent. U. 8. Dept. Agri. Cir. 3.
have been so full and complete the summary made by
them is given. The illustrations are also taken from the
publications of these entomologists:
“The scale is not readily detected by the casual ob-
server, and consequently often remains unnoticed until
the death of the tree calls attention to it. Unfortunately,
it multiplies rapidly. Each adult female continues to
give birth to living young for a long period (six weeks),
and there are several (probably four) generations each
year. It infests the stems, twigs, leaves, fruit of nearly
all deciduous trees, and is extremely difficult to kill. The
INSECTS, FUNGI, PLANT DISEASES, ETC. ee
young insects are almost microscopic in size, being one-
hundredth of an inch in length, consequently not seen
except by the practiced eye. The mature insects, as
already indicated, are very small and without some ex-
perience will be readily overlooked, even by good ob-
servers. Also, persons uninformed might easily mistake
other insects for this species. The most common scale
upon orchard trees is the
‘scurfy bark louse’ (Chio-
naspis furfurus), but this
differs from the San Jose
scale in some important
partienlars, “Hirst; the
scurfy scale is elongate,
never circular in outline;
lies flat upon the bark, and
is papery white in color;
second, this scale passes
the winter in the egg state
and is single brooded,
while, on the contrary, the
San Jose Scale passes the
i ‘ Fig. 51—San José Scale. Apple
winter in all stages, from branch, with scale in situ, natural
the minute egg, just cover- size. Enlarged scales above at left.
ed with the scale, up to ae ae Bate ee vents
mature individuals.”* eee Pe
Plants Injured —A\mond, apricot, acacia, alder, cherry,
currant, gooseberry, hawthorn, linden, osage orange,
pear, peach, plum, persimmon, pecan, quince, raspberry,
rose, spirea, weeping willow.
REMEDIES.—‘“(1.) In all cases of recent or slight attack
the affected stock should be promptly uprooted and
burned. No measure is so sure as this, and the danger of
spread is so great that this course seems fully warranted.
*Circular No. 42, Div. Ent., U. S. Dept. Agri.
148 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
“(2.) In cases of long standing and wide extent the
affected stock should be cut back severely and treated
with winter soap wash; stock badly inerusted with scale
should be cut out at once and burned. The lessening
of the vitality, together with the poisoning of the sap-
wood already affect-
ed by the scale in
such cases, will usu-
ally prevent the
plant from feyer
again becoming
healthy, and gene-
rally it is beyond
help. We wish par-
ticularly to impress
upon the minds of
fruit growers that as
soon as this insect is
found to occur in an
orchard the most
strenuous measures
must be taken to
stamp. it. outa 1ANe
half-way steps will
suffice. The individ-
ual must remember
Fig. 52—San José Scale. a, Pear, mod- ‘
erately infested, natural size. 6, Female that not only are his
scaie, enlarged. Howard, Div. Ent. U.S. own interests vitally
Dep Der Cin at stake, but those of
the entire community in which he resides. He may think
that he cannot bear the loss, but the loss in consequence of
the slightest neglect will be much greater. The fact, too,
that there is a community of interests among fruit grow-
ers in this matter must not be lost sight of. Fruit growers
must be mutually helpful in an emergency like this.
INSECTS, FUNGI, PLANT DISEASES, ETC. 149
“(3.) AS precautionary measures to prevent the intro-
duction of the scale into new districts, the following con-
siderations are important: No orchardist should admit a
single young fruit tree or a single cutting from a distance
into his orchard without first carefully examining it and
Fig. 53—Protoparce carolina. a, Aduit moth. b, Full grown larva. c, Pupa,
natural size. Howard, Div. Ent. U. S. Dept. Agri. Year Book, 1898.
satisfying himself conclusively that it does not carry a
single specimen of the San Jose scale; he should insist,
also, on a guaranty from the nurseryman of such free-
dom. In addition, no fruit should be brought upon the
premises without previous careful inspection. If this
course is adopted by every one interested, without excep-
tion, the rate of spread of the species may be limited to
150 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
the comparatively slight natural extension by crawling,
by winds, and by the aid of other insects and birds.’’*
ToBAcco WORM, OR TOMATO WoRM, OR HORN WORM
(Protoparse carolina, Linn., and P. celeus, Hubn.).—* There
are two species of large sphinx moths whose larvae, or
caterpillars, eat the leaves of tobacco, tomato and allied
plants, including, occasionally, the Irish potato. These
caterpillars, from the fact that each bears upon one of
the posterior segments of the body a rather stout, curved
horn, have become
popularly known as
horn worms. To-
bacco growers do
not distinguish be-
tween the two dif-
ferent kinds of horn
worms, and for prac-
Fig. 54—Bruchus pisorum. a, Adult beetle. tical purposes it is
b, Larva. c, Pupa. All greatly enlarged. not in the least
Chittenden, Div Ent. U. 8. Dept. Agri. Year
Book, 1898.
necessary that they
should distinguish
them. The curious brown pupa into which the cater
pillar transforms, which is found under the surface
of the ground, and which is at once recognized by the
handle-shaped process which issues from the top of the
head, is the form from which issues the adult moths.
soth of the insects occur more or less abundantly in the
tobacco fields over the entire tobacco-growing regions of
the United States. In certain localities one species will
be much more abundant than the other, and in other
localities the numbers will be more evenly divided. In
general, it may be said that celeus is the more northern
species, while further South carolina is apt to be much
the more common.” (Howard.)
*Circular No. 42, Div. Ent. U. S..Dept. Agri.
INSECTS, FUNGI, PLANT DISEASES, ETC. 151
Plants Attacked.—Tobacco, tomato, Irish potato, egg-
plant.
ReEMEDIES.—Hand-picking is sure, and, because of the
large size of the worms, readily and easily accomplished.
Jamestown (Jimson) weeds are sometimes cultivated, the
flowers of which the moths are fond of visiting for the
nectar they contain. If these flowers are poisoned with
a small quantity of a solution made of cobalt, one ounce;
molasses, one pint; water, one pint, the moths will be
Fig. 55—Bruchus obtectus. a, Beetle. 6, Larva. c, Pupa. All
greatly enlarged. Chittenden, Div. Ent. U. 8. Dept.
Agri. Year Book, 1898.
destroyed when they suck the flowers for the nectar. This
method has been practiced with success in Florida.
WEEVILS, PEA AND BEAN (Bruchus pisorum, -Linn.; B.
obtectus, 8.3 B. quadrimaculatus, Fab.) —These weevils are
well known by all gardeners, and the damage committed
by them is very great. The adult insect deposits its eggs
on the inside of the green pod by making a slit on the
suture through which the eggs are placed. The grubs
enter the seed and feed on the starch stored up by the
plant for the germ.
REMEDINS.—Seed, which are attacked by the weevils
should be treated with the fumes of carbon bisulphide.
gas GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
A small quantity of the seeds are placed in a tight box
and a portion of the carbon bisulphide is poured over
them; another layer of seeds and fresh carbon bisulphide,
and this operation is repeated until the box is filled. A
close cover is put on and the box allowed to stand for a
day or two, when the fumes of the poison will kill all
of the insects in the seeds. In the use of this chemical
ereat care must be taken because of its inflammable quali-
ties. See that no
smoking is permitted
within the room
where the work is
being conducted, or
a disastrous explo-
ston will result.
Heterodera radi-
cicola, “(GG reeduae
Mull; Nematode
Fig. 56—Bruchus quadrimaculatus. a, Beetle.
b, Larva. c, Pupa. Allenlarged. Chitten- root-galls. These
den, Div. Ent. U. S. Dept. Agri. Year Book,
are enlargements
1898.
on the roots of cer-
tain plants attacked by a microscopical worm, which
causes the swelling by eating the roots. Professor Atkin-
son,in his study of this worm in Bulletin 9 of the Alabama
Experiment Station, gives the following description of
the disease: “ The surface of the gall is at first smooth,
more or less undulate, or papillate, but becomes later
roughened, scurfy, or cracked, and finally decay of the
tissues sets in When the roots begin to die they send
out new roots in the efforts of the plant to recover from
the effects of the disease. These roots in turn are at-
tacked and deformed.”
Inasmuch as the worm is found in the tissues of the
roots and the openings they make are so minute it is
impossible to reach them with the ordinary methods of
INSECTS, FUNGI, PLANT DISEASES, ETC. 153
applications of vermicides, it is therefore recommended
to sterilize the soil by starvation of the worm—that is,
planting only those plants which are known to be free
from the attacks—and by clean
cultivation.
PLANT DISEASES.
These diseases are referred to
what are called fungi, which be-
long to the Cryptogamic branch
of the vegetable kingdom. A
fungus is a plant that is devoid of
the coloring matter or chloro-
phyll so necessary in the higher
plants for a proper assimilation
of the crude food. This coloring
matter being absent in the body
of the fungus, it becomes neces-
sary for it to seek for its food in
the flowering plants, where it is
in a condition to be immediately
assimilated. The damage, there-
fore, to the plant is caused by the
hyphae, or thread-like forms of
the fungus penetrating the tis-
Sues and drawing the sap and
nutritive fluids, and thus eventu-
ally starving the plant to death.
These hyphae are either separate
or in bundles; and the entire
mass of vegetative portion is Fig. 57—Nematode on Carrot.
called mycelium. California Bulletin.
The reproduction of the fungus is by means of spores
which are developed on the mycelium. These spores
under the proper conditions of heat and moisture throw
154 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
out fine filaments and rapidly grow into a mature fungus.
There are two kinds of these spores, or, rather, two con-
ditions. One stage belongs to the summer period, and is
to be found on the surface of the host, while the other
belongs to the winter, and is deeply seated in the tissues
of the plant upon which the fungus was developed. The
fruit and leaves are common places for the latter stage
of the fungus.
From the fact that the fungus soon finds its way into
the tissues of the host plant it will be readily understood
that the application of remedies to the surface will have
but little, if any, effect in destroying the disease. We
must, therefore, greatly rely upon preventive rather than
curative methods. .
There are many species of fungi attacking the culti-
vated plants, and the vigorous investigations of the
Iixperiment Station workers all over the United States
are bringing to light new forms each year, but the limited
character of this book will permit the mention of only a
few of the most destructive and troublesome species.
Bacillus amylovorus (Burrill). Fire blight, frozen sap
blight, pear blight. This serious destruction of the pear
tree is the result of the attack of a minute bacterium
which causes the fermentation of the sap and the leaves
to turn a dark brown, and even the wood is made to crack
under the freezing and thawing of tissues in their un-
healthy condition. By this cracking of the wood the
bacteria are often given access to the older portions
of the tree. The first attack made by the bacteria is
through the nectaries and stigmas of the flowers, in the
soft tissues of the twigs and leaves where a wound has
been made. When a diseased tree is permitted to stand
the germs are transmitted by insects to the healthy trees,
as they fly from one flower to another seeking for the
nectar. When placed in this favorable condition the
INSECTS, FUNGI, PLANT DISEASES, ETC. 155
bacteria soon begin to multiply with great activity, and
but a short time will elapse before the twig shows a
sickly indication.
The only remedy now known is to cut away the dis-
eased portions into the healthy part and carefully burn
the wood. This may not in all cases prevent the trouble
appearing again, but nothing better is now known.
Cladosporium fulvum (Cke.), Cladosporium carpophilum
(Thum.) Leaf blight of the tomato and brown spot of the
peach, plum and cherry. The first attacks the leaf of the
tomato by turning it yellow in spots and eventually
covering the entire foliage. (A badly diseased plant is
unable to grow leaves and have sufficient vitality to de-
velop fruit also.) The C. carpophiium shows on the fruit of
the peach, plum and cherry in brown, velvety spots, in-
creasing in size until they run together in the shape of
large patches.
The remedy recommended is spraying with Bordeaux
mixture every week or so to protect the new leaves and
fruit. See the table at the end of this chapter.
Caeoma nitens (Schw.). Red rust of the raspberry and
blackberry. This disease lives in the tissues of the plants
and breaks through to the surface, where it matures its
orange-colored spores, on the under sides of the leaves.
The fungus, however, infests the entire plant, and it is
supposed that it finds its way into the tissues through
the roots. The spores live through the winter in the
leaves which fall to the ground. The mycelium is peren-
nial and remains in the stem during the winter.
The only sure remedy is to dig up all diseased canes
and burn them. Treat in the same way all wild plants
found in the neighborhood containing the rust. Do not
plant any species of the raspberry and blackberry in the
same locality for three or four years. If but few of the
plants are infected spray the healthy ones with copper
156 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
sulphate solution or Bordeaux mixture. The anthracnose
is another disease which is destructive to the raspberry.
Ceratocystis fimbriata (Ell. & Hals.). Sweet potato black
rot. The beginning of the disease is shown by the appear-
Fig. 58—Anthracnose of Raspberry. Gloeosporium
venetum. Div. Veg Phys-and Path.
ance of dark olive-brown, or green patches, on the young
sprouts or upon the potato, entering the tissues. The
fungus grows rapidly and soon causes death to the sprout
INSECTS, FUNGI, PLANT DISEASES, ETC. L57
by girdling, and, in the case of the potato, covering the
surface with a dark-green rot. Like other diseases of the
fungus kind, the trouble is the result of the myceliuyn
entering the tissues and feeding on the starch grains and
cellular tissues.
— Only healthy potatoes must be planted for the slips or
sprouts, and no sickly slips must be transplanted; do not
use hog manures in quantities, as this seems to encourage
the development of the fungus; clear the field of all
debris and small potatoes after digging; and in case of
Fig. 59—Soft-rot of Sweet Potato. Rhizopus nigricans (Ehr,), Redrawn
after Halst: ad.
infested fields, rotate the crop, planting other than root
Crops.
Rhizopus nigricans (Bhr.). Soft rot of the sweet potato.
Dr. Byron D. Halsted gives the following account of this
disease: This form of decay, while it may be met with in
the field at digging time, is usually found most destruc-
tive in the storeroom, where it causes the attacked roots
to quickly become soft and worthless. In the engraving
is shown a root in which the mould has penetrated for
nearly the whole length of the potato. As a rule, the
mould effects an entrance through the upper end of the
potato, where the latter was separated from the main
root, because the rind of the root, on account of its tough-
ness, in a measure prevents the entrance of the fungus.
158 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
Should there be a break at any other point, this pro-
vides a suitable point for the’ attack of the disease.
The roots are more or less cut or bruised in harvesting,
and these places favor the entrance of the fungus. As
the mould advances within the tissue of the plant it
exudes a substance which is very active in causing the
starch in the potato to dissolve, as also the walls of the
cells to become partially decomposed. In this way the
juice from the decaying sweet potato is able to induce
a similar decay in healthy roots.
It is quite safe to assume that the mould makes its
entrance into the potato from the surrounding medium,
and usually after the roots have been harvested. It does
not, as far as known, begin by infecting the leaves of the
growing plant, and then pass down the stem, as is true
with the soft rot of the Irish potato. The fact that it
finds broken, bruised or cut spots in the roots favor-
able places for entrance suggests the importance of
being careful in harvesting and subsequent handling,
that the least possible harm shall come to the skin of
the roots. It is also true that the soft rot is greatly
favored by a moist atmosphere, especially shortly after
digging, at the time the roots are undergoing the
process known as “sweating.” At this critical period
it is very necessary that the potatoes be stored ina
well-ventilated room, where a constant temperature
of not far from seventy degrees, or about that of a living
room, may be sustained. All soft potatoes should be
sorted from the healthy ones and destroyed.
Cercospora Apii (Fries.). Celery-leaf blight. The evi-
dence of the fungus is the appearance of pale yellow-
ereen spots on both sides of the leaves, about one-fourth
of an inch in diameter. These will soon change to a
brown color with a lighter colored center, and, if per-
INSECTS, FUNGI, PLANT DISEASES, ETC. 159
mitted to have its way, the disease will cause the leaf
to dry up and became browned over its entire surface.
Remove all infected leaves and watch the plants for
the disease, so that all parts attacked may be destroyed.
Fig. 60—Leaf Curl. Evxoascus deformans. Berk,
on Plum leaves (after Atkinson). Cornell Bulle-
tin 73.
There is no sure remedy in the shape of spraying after
the mycelium has found its way into the tissues.
Damping Off (generally attributed to the fungus
160 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
Artotrogus debaryanus, Hesse). The disease occurs in the
hot-bed or greenhouse, and rots off the young seedlings
near the surface of the ground. The tissues are weak-
ened by the attack of the fungus, and the plant falls to
the ground. A number of fungi are also responsible for
this trouble, and great encouragement is given to them
in making the attack by the damp condition of the soil,
the high temperature and the humid atmosphere.
In the case of seed beds and greenhouses the remedy
is to change the soil and ventilate, and transplant only
the healthy plants. Do not water to excess.
BHaoascus deformans (Brek.), Fuckel, Peach leaf curl;
BHxoascus pruni, Fuckel, Plum pockets. The peach leaf
curl is caused by the attack of a fungus which makes the
leaves drop early in the summer, and if the disease is
very severe the entire foliage may fall, followed by the
fruit. The fungus seems to be developed just after a cold,
wet period before the leaves put forth. The curling of the
leaf is due to the growth of the mycelium in the tissues,
and the spores give the surface a mealy cast. The fungus
remains in the fallen leaves and branches through the win-
ter, ready to renew the attack at the opening of the spring.
The remedy recommended by some experimenters is
to prune back the twigs and spray with Bordeaux mix-
ture before the buds appear, repeating the operation
after the trees are out of bloom and again at the end of
two weeks. In the use of the Bordeaux mixture care
must be taken to have an excess of lime in the mixture,
so as to prevent injury to the leaves.
The plum pockets are the diseased fruits on the plum
tree. The mycelium pass the winter in the fruit-bearing
branches, and as soon as the ovaries appear in the spring
the fungus enters them and stimulates them so that the
plum becomes enlarged and the tissues dry up and as-
sume a spongy cast.
INSECTS, FUNGI, PLANT DISEASES, ETC. 161
The diseased fruits and branches should be burned,
and in the spring the trees must be sprayed with solu-
tion of copper sulphate, which will help greatly in check-
ing the fungus, and an occasional application of Bordeaux
mixture will still further overcome the trouble.
Fig 61—Apple Scab = Fusicladium dendriticum.
Entomosporium maculatum (Ley.). Leaf blight and crack-
ing of the pear; also found on the quince. This fungus
first makes its appearance on the leaves as small, brown
spots which soon enlarge to considerable patches. Later
in the season black spots are seen in the center of the
brown patches, which are the spores. The disease begins
early in the spring, and the entire foliage will become
1
162 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
infested, and the tree will become defoliated. In many
instances the wood and the fruit also become affected
with the fungus. In the case of the fruit the surface
shows carmine red spots, which turn dark afterwards,
and the skin becomes roughened and then cracks, making
an unsightly fruit for market.
This disease can be kept in check by the use of Bor-
deaux mixture at intervals of two weeks until about the
Ist of August. The first application should be made
before the buds appear and three others at intervals of
ten days. Burn all leaves which fall from the tree that is
affected with the disease.
Fusicladium dendriticum (Fckl.). Apple scab, leaf blight,
or leaf mildew. There are apparently two forms of this
fungus, one attacking the leaves and the other the fruit;
but, in fact, it is the same disease. Tor some years prior
to 1873 it was supposed by observers to be two distinct
fungi, but Professor M. C. Cooke has shown that they are
identical. The appearance on the leaves is in the form of
small olive-green spots, which as they increase in size as-
sume a velvety appearance with the borders more or less
irregular. The fruit shows a similar condition of the at-
tack. There is generally a light colored ring around the
borders of the spot. It has been determined that dry, hot
summers are unfavorable to the development of the fun-
gus, while wet springs and summers, and a cool condition
of the atmosphere, will cause the fungi to grow with con-
siderable vigor.
This fungus does not penetrate far into the tissues, and
in its first stages it is exposed on the surface of the leaves
and fruit, so that spraying will kill the spores, but the
difficulty consists in the fact that the solutions which
are strong enough to accomplish this end will also de-
stroy the foliage of the tree. We must, therefore, com-
mence spraying in early spring before the buds begin to
INSECTS, FUNGI, PLANT DISEASES, ETC. 163
expand, using a solution of sulphate of copper. When the
blossoms have fallen repeat the spraying with the Bor-
deaux mixture, and make two or three applications if the
season is wet.
Laestadia bidwelli (All), Via. and Ray. Black rot of the
erape. This disease
attacks both the
fruit and the leaves,
the former most se-
verely. When about
full grown there ap-
pear on the grapes
spots of a brown or
purple color, which
in a few days extend
over the entire sur-
face, with the center
somewhat darker.
Black pimples over
the diseased part are
characteristic fea-
tures of the fungus.
ihe: fruit! +s°0:0 8
shrinks up and re-
mains on the vine for
a period as late as
winter. On the leaves
the spots are reddish Fig. 62— Laestadia bidwelli (Ell Ne Via & Rav.
Div. Botany, U. S. Dept. Agri.
brown dispersed be-
tween the veins. The disease is detected here some days
before the attack is made on the fruit.
Since the fungus makes its appearance so late in the
season after the fruit is well advanced, it becomes rather
a difficult problem to destroy the disease if the spraying
is postponed, without staining the grapes. It is, there-
164 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
fore, important that early applications of Bordeaux
mixture be made, and as thoroughly as possible—begin-
ning before the blossoms open, and repeating the spray-
ing three or four times, with a week or ten days inter-
vening between each application, care being taken not to
extend the spraying until the fruit is stained.
Monilia fructigena (Pers.). The rot of peach, plum,
quince, and cherry. *“ The fungus makes its appearance
Fig. 63—Monilia fructigena. Geneva, N. Y., Bulletin 86.
on the flowers soon after or about the time the petals
fall. At first a slight discoloration appears at a given
point; this rapidly increases in size until at length the
entire flower assumes a brownish hue.
“After killing the flower the fungus frequently attacks
the pedicels, where it produces similar discolorations to
those described above. The dead flowers usually remain
on the tree for three or four weeks, then if the weather is
wet they begin falling, and as they consist at this time
of a soft mass of rotten tissue they stick to any part of
*B. T, Galloway, Sec. Veg. Path. Report, Department Agriculture, 1888.
INSECTS, FUNGI, PLANT DISEASES, ETC. 165
the tree with which they come in contact; many fall upon
the leaves and young fruit and become so firmly attached
that no ordinary rain or wind will remove them. Careful
experiments have shown that the rotting flowers are
highly infectious, and that wherever they touch the
leaves or fruit decay sets in.
“On the leaves the presence of the fungus is first made
manifest by a slight discoloration of the tissue around
the point of infection; this gradually enlarges, and at the
same time the normal healthy green color changes to a
reddish-brown. . . During wet weather the spots on
the upper surface of the leaf are frequently studded with
little tufts of fungus; these have a mealy or pulverulent
appearance, and are easily washed off by the rains or
removed by the wind.
“As in the case of the leaves, the fruit is often infected
by means of the diseased flowers. At first there appears
a brownish circular spot on one side of the cherry; this
rapidly enlarges and soon the entire fruit becomes brown,
shrunken, and soft. Ultimately the fruit stalk is attacked
and finally the whole either falls to the ground and dries
up, or remains hanging on the tree throughout the sum-
mer, or until the following spring. The fruit is often
covered with tufts of the fungus similar to those occur-
ring upon the leaves, and while in this condition they
are highly infectious, causing all the fruit with which
they come in contact to rot.”
The remedy recommended is spraying with Bordeaux
mixture just before the blossoms open, again just after
the blossoms fall, and about ten days after with another
spraying of the Bordeaux mixture. Some doubt the
entire efficiency of spraying, and its advisability is an
open question. Precaution must be exercised in its use,
particularly with the peach, which is so liable to iniury
from the chemicals.
166 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
Alternaria Nolani (EB. and M.) Sor. Early or leaf blight
of the potato. This disease is readily recognized by the
Fig. 64—Oedema. Leaf Curl of Tomato ( Atkinson). Cornell Experiment
Station Bulletin.
peculiar folding of the edges of the leaves, resulting from
the shrinking of the tissue after the attack of the fungus
INSECTS, FUNGI, PLANT DISEASES, ETC. 167
has destroyed the vitality of the cells. The attack begins
with a small spot, which gradually enlarges until most of
the leaf surface is involved, and, unless the disease is
checked, the entire plant is so injured its power to pro-
duce tubers is destroyed.
The remedy for this disease is Bordeaux mixture
sprayed on the plants just after they are six inches high,
and continued at intervals of two weeks until June Ist.
Ocdema. Leaf curl of the tomato. The disease is mant-
fested by the rolling up of the leaves exposing the under
surfaces. The veins are very much swollen, and the
leaves become more or less brittle. The illustration of
this disease is copied from Bulletin 53 of the Cornell
Station by Professor G. F. Atkinson. The attack is made
on the older leaves first, and the plant dies from the base
upwards.
Experience has shown that the disease is caused fre-
quently by an excess of water in the soil, or by a too
liberal use of ammoniacal fertilizers, so that irrigation
will help to retard the disease and judicious application
of fertilizers will prevent too vigorous growth of soft
tissue, which seems to be subject to the disease.
Oospora scabies. Potato scab. A delicate white mold
first makes its appearance on the surface of the potato
(Irish), and the scab is developed by the tissues of the
tuber, at the point of attack, forming a layer of cork as
a protection against the fungus parasite. As the potato
grows this diseased place begins to crack and becomes
roughened. Very soon the entire hill of tubers becomes
infected.
The remedy is preventive rather than curative. A
large per cent. of organic matter in the soil seems to en-
courage the development of the disease, and where lime
and stable manure are used in large quantities there is
danger of having this parasite on the crop. Scabby
168 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
potatoes must not be planted, because this will infect
the soil and give trouble. Stable manure secured from
animals fed on potatoes and beets is liable to produce
the disease. Rotation must be practiced and clean cul-
ture must be the rule.
Peach yellows ; Peach rosette. These two diseases are not
yet well understood. The cause is unknown, but the effects
have been carefully examined by pathologists, and the
diseases have been pronounced virulently contagious.
The yellows have not been located positively farther
Fig. 65—Oos; ora scabies. Cornell Experiment Station, Bulletin 113.
south than Virginia, but there is constant danger of its
introduction at any time by means of the diseased stock
brought from the infected districts. Peach yellows
manifests its presence by the premature ripening of the
fruit, with bright red blotches over the skin and into the
flesh, penetrating almost to the center of the peach, pro-
ducing an unnatural coloring. There is also a premature
unfolding of the leaf buds into pale, sickly growths,
giving the tree an unhealthy look. The fruit has a bitter,
unpleasant taste. The tree gradually succumbs to the
INSECTS, FUNGI, PLANT DISEASES, ETC. 169
attack, and in the course of two or three years will die
entirely.
The rosette is somewhat similar to yellows in its
methods of attack, but it is more decided in its appear-
ance. “It may first attack part of a tree and then the
remainder, the same as yellows, but it is more likely to
appear at once in the whole tree, and generally in early
spring. In trees attacked in this manner all of the leaf
buds grow into compact tufts or rosettes. These rosettes,
although seldom more than two or three inches long,
usually contain several hundred small leaves.
,
{ / ye
/
Fig. 110—Early Jersey Wakefield Cabbage.
many years was the best for the earliest crop. The Wake-
field is a conical headed cabbage, and the outside foliage
permits of close planting, so that a large crop may be
produced from an acre of ground. There is a larger
VEGETABLES——DESCRIPTION AND CULTURE. 295
headed variety of the Wakefield called Large Early, or
Charleston Wakefield, but rather later in maturing.
EARLY WINNIGSTADT.—Stem dwarf, head large, broad
at the base, sharply conical, heart firm, boiling tender;
sown late, it proves a good winter cabbage; adapted to
Fig. 111—Matchless Late Flat Dutch Cabbage.
Sandy soils; about three weeks later than the early
varieties.
HENDERSON’S EARLY SUMMER.—This cabbage comes in
just after the Wakefield, and its large, well-shaped head
stands the summer’s heat finely.
Earity FLar DurcH.—This is an old standard variety
and well suited to Southern portions of the country, be-
296 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
cause it has considerable heat resisting properties. The
heads are flat on top, and of large, uniform size.
ALL SEASONS.—This cabbage is good for fall, winter
and summer planting. The heads are large, and come
into use nearly as early as the Early Summer.
Express.—lour or five days earlier than the Jersey
Wakefield. The heads are exceedingly firm and well
shaped.
EarLy DrRUMHEAD.—The heads are large and firm, and
withstand the heat admirably, thus making it a popular
cabbage in many sections of the South. It matures about
ten days later than the Wakefield, and is therefore an
excellent cabbage to follow that variety, especially the
Charleston Wakefield.
LarGrE EaArLty YorkK.—Is robust, bears the heat well,
and will often continue in eating all summer.
Forruer’s IMPROVED BRUNSWICK AND SUCCESSION are
fine plants and much alike.
For late cabbages the following are well suited to the
South:
PREMIUM FLAT DUTCH.
LARGE LATE DRUMHEAD.
tep Durcn is used principally for pickling, and should
be sown at the same time with the drumheads.
SAVOY CABBAGES.—/(B. oleracea, var. bullata-major.)
These differ from the preceding in their wrinkled
leaves. The varieties are hardy, being rendered more
sweet and tender by frost. The only two worthy of cul-
Lure are:
CURLED Savoy.—An excellent winter variety, much
improved in sweetness and tenderness by frost. It does
not head firmly, but is very fine flavored, and even the
outside leaves are tender and palatable.
DRUMHEAD Savoy is almost as large and firm as the
VEGETABLES—DESCRIPTION AND CULTURE. 297
drumhead cabbage, and keeps very well. The head is
round, flattened at top. It is nearly as delicate as the
curled variety.
The Savoys are not as certain a crop as the other cab-
bages, but far superior in delicacy. They are nearly equal
to cauliflowers.
Culture—An analysis of different varieties of the cab-
bage shows them all to contain a very large proportion of
ea al
Fig 112—Savoy Cabbage.
nitrogen; after evaporating the water, drumhead cabbage
gives of nitrogen 17.899 parts in a hundred; Savoy, 20.763;
red, 16.212; turnip-rooted, 19.052. We also find this plant
remarkably rich in phosphorus and sulphur; hence its un-
pleasant smell in decay, like that of animal matter. It
abounds also in soda and potash. Hence, common salt, to
yield soda and chlorine, wood ashes for potash, bone for
phosphorie acid, and gypsum, to add sulphur and lime,
together with a soil saturated with manure of animals,
especially the liquid excretion, all come in play in making
298 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
fine cabbages. Frequent stirring of the soil will also rob
the atmosphere of its ammonia for the same purpose.
The genus to which the cabbage belongs (Brassica)
embraces also the Turnip, Borecole, Broccoli, Cauliflower,
Brussels Sprouts, etc., and the following observations
apply to the whole of them.
For the seed-bed the soil should be a moist loam, but
more dry in the case of plants which are to stand the
winter. For final production most plants of this genus
like a fresh, very rich, moderately clayey loam. ey; — Ay §
Up.
Fig. 117—Celery Earthed
finished by the spade, which is done by digging the soil
from between the rows and banking it up clear to the top
on each side of the row of celery, as in Figure 117. Three
feet is ample distance between the dwarf varieties, but
VEGETABLES—DESCRIPTION AND CULTURE. 317
when large sorts are used the width between the rows
must be at least four and a half or five feet, which entails
much more labor and loss of ground. For the past eight
years I have grown none but the dwarf varieties, and have
saved, in consequence, at least one-half in labor, and one-
third in ground, while the average price per root in mar-
ket has been always equal and occasionally higher than
for the tall growing sorts.
Some authorities recommend the use of 12-inch plank
in bleaching celery, one placed on each side of the row,
leaning against pegs, and with a few inches of earth
thrown up against the plank to hold it in position. It is
claimed that with this method enough of the light is
excluded from the stems of the plants to cause them to
bleach.
The preparation of the soil and planting of celery for
winter use is the same in all respects, except that, what is
intended for winter need never be “ banked up ” with the
spade. It merely requires to be put through the handling
process, to put it in a compact and upright position pre-
paratory to being stowed away in winter quarters. This
should not be done before the middle of September, or
just long enough before the celery is dug up, to keep it
in the upright position.
We have, however, another method called the “ new
celery culture,”* which we have found to answer very
well for the late crop, and it is one by which more roots
can be grown on the same space and with less labor than
by any other. The best results will be secured by culti-
vating a self-bleaching variety, like the Golden Self-
*It is of interest to note that in 1892 some writers on horticulture
published an account of this method, and claimed the honor of the
discovery, calling it the “new celery culture,’ when, as a matter of
fact, this method was in use in 1868, at the time the second edition of this
book was issued.
318 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
Bleaching. It is simply to plant the celery one foot apart,
each way, nothing farther being required after planting,
except twice or thrice hoeing, to clear the crop of weeds
until it grows enough to cover the ground. No handling
or earthing up is required by this method, for, as the
plants struggle for light, they naturally assume an up-
right position, the leaves all assuming the perpendicular
instead of the horizontal, which is the condition essential
before being put in winter quarters. This method is not
quite so general with us as planting in rows, and it is
perhaps better adapted for private gardens than for mar-
SS
NS
.
>
Fig. 118—Old Method of Growing Celery in Trenches. (This
is also used for winter storage. )
ket; as the plant is more excluded from the air, the root
hardly attains as much thickness as by the other plan.
The manner of preserving it during the winter is
very simple, but as the knowledge of the process may
not be well understood generally by market gardeners,
I will endeavor to put it plain enough, so that my
readers “may go and do likewise.” In this locality
we begin to dig up that which we intend for winter
use about the end of October, and continue the work
(always on dry days) until the 20th or 25th of Novem-
ber, which is as late as we dare risk it out for fear of
frost. Let it be understood that celery will stand quite
a sharp frost—say 10 or even 15°, while 20 or 25° will
VEGETABLES—DESCRIPTION AND CULTURE. 319
destroy it. Hence experience has taught us, that the
sharp frosts that we usually have during the early part of
November, rarely hurt it, though often causing it to droop
flat on the ground, until thawed out by the sun. It must,
however, never be touched when in the frozen state, or it
is almost certain to decay. The ground in which it is
placed for winter use should be as dry as possible, or if
not dry, so arranged that no water will remain in the
trench. The trench should be dug as narrow as possible,
not more than ten or twelve inches wide, and of the depth
exactly of the height of the celery—that is, if the plant of
the celery be two feet in length, the depth of the drain or
trench should be two feet also. The celery is now placed
in the trench as near perpendicular as possible, so as to
fill it up entirely, its green tops being on a level with the
top of the trench. Figure 118 represents a section across
a trench filled with celery in the manner just described.
No earth whatever is put to the roots other than what
may adhere to them after being dug up. It being closely
packed together, there is moisture enough always at the
bottom of the trench to keep this plant at the cool season
of the year from wilting. That which is put in trenches
about the 25th of October is usually ready to be taken up
for use about the first of December, that which is put ina
couple of weeks later, by the first of January, and the last
(which we try always to defer to 15th or 20th November)
may be used during the winter and until the first of April.
For the first lot, no covering is required, but that for use
during the winter months must be gradually covered up,
from the middle of December, on until the first of Jan-
uary, when it will require at least a foot of covering of
some light, dry material—hay, straw, or leaves—the lat-
ter perhaps the best. I have said the covering up should
be gradual. This is very important, for if the full weight
of covering is put on at once, it prevents the passing off
320 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
of the heat generated by the closely packed mass of
celery, and in consequence it to some extent “ heats,” and -
decay takes place. Covered up in this manner, it can be
got out with ease, during the coldest weather in winter,
and -with perfect safety. These dates of operations, like
all others named throughout, are for this latitude; the
cultivator must use his judgment carefully in this matter
to suit the section in which he is located.
T'o Save Seed.—Leave some plants where grown; in the
latter part of February take them carefully, cut off the
outside leaves, and remove the side shoots, and plant
them out in moist soil, one foot apart. Select those which .
are solid and of middling size. Tie the seed-stalks to
stakes, to preserve them from being broken off by violent
winds. After the flowers open, while the seed is swelling,
if dry weather occurs, water at least every other night.
When the seed is dry, it may be rubbed out and stored in
a dry place. They will keep good four years.
Use—Celery has some little nutriment, but is culti-
vated chiefly as a luxury. The sweet, crisp stalks, used
raw, with a little salt, form a most grateful salad. It is
also used as a seasoning, and is a great improvement to
soups and gravies.
named. The stem (sometimes called the stipe) is cylin-
drical, or tapers a little toward the lower end. Near
its upper end is a sort of a collar, usually termed a ‘ ring ’
(or, technically, an annulus), which encircles it. This ring
is very delicate in this plant, is white like the stem, of a
364 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
very thin, satiny texture, and more or less ragged on the
edge.
“The more or less circular expanded disk into which
the stem fits is called the ‘cap’ (technically the pileus,
which is the latin for cap). The upper portion, of which
we can only see the margin in this figure, is convex (see
Figure 130). The surface is usually white, though some-
Fig. 131—Agaricus campestris (after Atkinson). View of under-
side of pileus, showing arrangement of gills.
times brownish, and usually is covered by a thin layer
of very delicate threads, while the flesh or inner portion
is more compact, and is white also.
“ On the under side of the cap are numerous thin plates
or ‘gills’ (lamellae), which radiate from near the stem to
the margin of the cap. These are shown in Figure 131 as
fine radiating lines. They do not reach the stem, or, when
they do, they are not attached to it.
VEGETABLES—DESCRIPTION AND CULTURE. 365
“The common mushroom (Agaricus campestris) grows in
lawns, pastures and similar places.
It averages 5-8 em.
(2-8 inches) in height, the pileus being 5-12 cm.in diameter.
“Pileus—The cap or pileus is convex or more or less
expanded, the surface
being nearly smooth, or
more or less silky hairy,
these fibrils sometimes
being collected into tri-
angular scales. The col-
or of the surface is
a swadl hyo white but
raries to light brown,
while the flesh is white.
“Gills —_W hen the
plant is very young the
gills are first white, but
soon become pink, and
later purple brown or
dark brown from the
numerous purple col-
ored spores on the sur-
face. The gills are free
from the stem, and
rounded on their inner
ends.
“Veil and Annulus.—
The veil is thin, white,
silky and very frail. As
the pileus expands the
veil is stretched and
Fig. 132--Mushroom. Amanita phal-
loides, Fr. (after Atkinson). Poison-
ous Mushroom. White form, show-
ing pileus, stipe, annulus and volva.
Cornell Experiment Station.
finally torn, when it clings as a thin collar or ring (an-
nulus) around the stem, or fragments dangle from the
margin of the pileus. As the plant becomes old, the an-
nulus shrivels up and becomes inconspicuous.
366 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
“Stem or Stipe-—The stem is white, nearly cylindrical,
or slightly tapering at the lower end. It varies from 3-8
cm. long and 1-2 cm. in diameter. The flesh is solid,
though less firm at the center.” (Athinson.)
AMANITA PHALLOIDES, Fr. (Vhe Deadly Amanita).—This
mushroom may be mistaken for the Agaricus campestris by
the careless collector, but there are marked differences
between the two when examined. In the first place, the
habitat of the Amanita is in the woods, while the Agari-
cus is to be found in the open fields. The former also
has a cup-like envelope, in which the base of the stem
rests. This cup is called the “death cup” or “ poison
cup” or volva. The volva is the distinguishing character-
istic of the poison forms, and whenever the mushrooms
contain it they should be avoided. The Amanita is some-
times found on the borders of the woods, closely situated
to the edible forms, and this fact should be always care-
fully remembered when out ona collecting tour. Be care-
ful to dig up the entire stem, so that the volva may be
certainly detected if present, because it is often true that
the stem extends some distance below the surface of the
ground and the poison cup may be overlooked if the
mushroom is pulled up by the pileus.
THE Fry AMANITA (Amanita muscaria (L) Pers).—In
this mushroom the bulbous enlargement at the base of
the stem is clearly indicated, and this, with the following
characteristics, distinguish this poisonous species from
those which are edible, viz.: The thick scales on the stem,
the corky particles on the glossy surface of the cap, and
the broad, dropping ring at the top of the cap. The color
of the upper surface of the cap varies from a brilliant red
to orange-yellow, buff, and even white. Sometimes the
corky layer does not break up into particles, but extends
over the entire surface of the cap, and might be mistaken
by the novice to be another species. This is one of the
VEGETABLES—DESCRIPTION AND CULTURE. 3 67
most dangerous mushrooms growing wild, and too great
care cannot be exercised by the collector in watching out
for it in securing those mushrooms which are intended to
be used for the table.
Fig. 133—Fly amanita, Amanita muscaria (after Coville).
Poisonous. One-haif natural size
The effects from the poisons taken into the system by
accidentally eating these poisonous mushrooms are so
violent and generally fatal, the following symptoms and
treatment, recommended by Mr. V, Ix. Chesnut, are given,
®
368 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
The poisonous principle of the death cup is known as
phallin, and is of the same character as the violent
poisons found in rattlesnakes and some other animals:
“The fundamental injury is not due, as in the case of
muscarine, to a paralysis of the nerves controlling the
action of the heart, but to a direct effect on the blood
corpuscles. These are quickly dissolved by phallin, the
blood serum escaping from the blood vessels into the
alimentary canal,
and the whole sys-
tem being rapidly
drained of its vital-
ity. No bad taste
warns the victim,
nor do the prelimi-
nary symptoms be-
gin until nine to
fourteem hous
after the poisonous
mushrooms are
eaten. There is
then considerable
abdominal pain and
there may be
Fig. 1834—Fly amanita, Amanita muscaria cr a ee eae
(after Coville). Top view. Poisonous. cramps 1 5
Two-fifths natural size. and other nervous
phenomena, such as
convulsions, and even lockjaw or other kinds of tetanic
spasms. The pulse is weak; the abdominal pain is rapidly
followed by nausea, vomiting, and extreme diarrhea, the
intestinal discharges assuming the ‘rice-water’ condition
characteristic of cholera. The latter symptoms are per-
sistently maintained, generally without loss of conscious-
ness, until death ensues in from two to four days.
“There is no known antidote by which the effects of
VEGETABLES—DESCRIPTION AND CULTURE. 369
phallin can be counteracted. The undigested material, if
not already vomited, should, however, be removed from
the stomach and intestines by methods similar to those
given for cases of poisoning by Amanita muscaria.
“After that the remainder of the poison, if the amount
of phallin already taken up by the system is not too large,
may wear itself out on the blood and the patient may re-
cover. It is suggested that this wearing-out process may
be assisted by transfusing into the veins blood freshly
taken from some warm-blooded animal. The depletion of
the blood serum might be remedied by similar transfu-
sions of salt and warm water.
“The symptoms of poisoning from the fly amanita, as
deduced from a number of cases, are varied. In some in-
stances they begin only after several hours, but usually
in from one-half to one or two hours. Vomiting and
diarrhea almost always occur, with a pronounced flow of
saliva, suppression of the urine, and various cerebral
phenomena beginning with giddiness, loss of confidence
in one’s ability to make ordinary movements, and de-
rangement of vision. This is succeeded by stupor, cold
sweats, and a very marked weakening of the heart’s
action. In case of rapid recovery the stupor is short and
usually marked with mild delirium. In fatal cases the
stupor continues from one to two or three days, and death
at last ensues from the gradual weaking and final stop-
page of the heart’s action.
“The treatment for poisoning by Amanita muscaria con-
sists primarily in removing the unabsorbed portion of the
amanita from the alimentary canal and in counteracting
the effect of muscarine on the heart. The action of this
organ should be fortified at once by the subcutaneous
injection by a physician of atropine in doses of from one
one-hundredth to one-fiftieth of a grain. The strongest
emetics, such as tartarized antimony or apomorphine
24
370 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
should be used, though in case of profound stupor even
these may not produce the desired action. Freshly ignited
charcoal or two grains of a one per cent. alkaline solution
of permanganate of potash may then be administered, in
order, in the case of the former substance, to absorb the
Fig. 135—Coprinus atramentarius (after Atkinson). Scaly form. Three-
fourths natural size.
poison, or in case of the latter, to decompose it. This
should be followed by oils and oleaginous purgatives,
and the intestines should be cleaned and washed out with
an enema of warm water and turpentine.
“ Experiments on animals poisoned by the fly amanita
and with pure muscarine show very clearly that when the
VEGETABLES—DESCRIPTION AND CULTURE. 37
heart has nearly ceased to beat it may be stimulated to
strong action almost instantly by the use of atropine. Its
use as thus demonstrated has been the means of saving
numerous lives. We have in this alkaloid an almost per-
fect physiological antidote for muscarine, and therefore
in such cases of. poisoning its use should be pushed as
heroically as the symptoms of the case will warrant.
“The presence of phallin in Amanita muscaria is pos-
sible, and its symptoms should be looked for in the red
color of the blood serum discharged from the intestines.”
THE INK CaP (Coprinus atramentarius, Frv.).—This is one
of the edible fungi, or mushrooms, and is quite abundant
in new-made lawns that have been heavily manured, gen-
erally in large clusters, but sometimes found scattered as
single plants. The figure gives a very correct represen-
tation of this mushroom. The pileus is egg-shaped, some-
times smooth and then again covered with small scales,
or in other cases the surface has a granular cast. The
stems are short.
SHAGGY OR MANED INK CaP (Coprinus comatus, FY.).—
Kdible, and found growing on lawns and rich grass plats.
The stem is longer than those of the ink-cap mushroom, -
and the pileus is very shaggy, and the pileus remains
most of its life in a cylindrical form and does not expand
into the umbrella shape as is the case with most of the
other mushrooms.
Culture—Beds may be readily constructed at any time
of the year, except between April and September, when
the temperature is rather too high for successful culture,
unless in the cool cellar of some outhouse. But November
and December are the best months for the purpose. Mush-
rooms are propagated by spawn, which may be obtained
for commencing from the seedsmen of our large cities.
The spawn is an imported article, and there is but little,
a GARDENING
Fig. 136— Coprinus comatus (after
Atkinson), well meriting the
name ‘‘shaggy mane.”’
ral size.
Natu-
FOR THE SOUTH.
if any, grown in this country
for sale. There are two forms—
the English brick and the
French flakes. The bricks are
broken into small pieces and
the flakes are also subdivided
before planting.
After a little spawn is ob-
tained, it may be increased as
follows: Take a quantity of
fresh manure from high-fed
horses, mixed with short litter;
add one-third cow’s dung, and
a good portion of loamy mould.
Incorporate them thoroughly,
mixing them with the drain-
ings of a dung heap, and beat
them until the whole becomes
of the consistency of a thick
mortar. Spread the mixture
on the level floor of an open
shed, and beat it flat with a
spade. When it becomes dry
to the proper consistency, cut
it into bricks (about eight
inches square; set them on
edge and turn frequently until
half dry, then dibble two holes
about half through each brick,
and insert in each hole a piece
of good spawn; close it witha
moist composition similar to
that of which the bricks were
made, and let them remain
until nearly dry. Then some-
VEGETABLES—DESCRIPTION AND CULTURE. 3)
where under cover place a bottom of dry horse-dung six
inches thick, and place the bricks, spawn side up, one
upon another. The pile may be made three feet high;
cover it with warm horse-dung sufficient to diffuse a gen-
tle heat through the whole. The heat should not be over
70°, and the pile should be examined the second day to
see that it does not overheat. When the spawn is diffused
entirely through the bricks the process is finished. The
bricks should then be laid separately in a dry place, and
if kept perfectly. dry, retain their vegetative power for
many years. One bushel of spawn will plant a bed four
feet by twelve.
Beds for mushrooms may be made anywhere in a dry
situation under cover. Make them four feet wide and
from ten to fifteen feet long, according to the wants of the
family. A small shed might be erected for the purpose,
but the back of a greenhouse is a very good situation, as
they do not need much light. Space must be left for an
alley, and if the shed be ten feet wide, it will admit of
a bed on each side.
Mushrooms, like other fungi, abound in nitrogen;
hence, this substance is necessary to their nourishment,
and unless substances rich in nitrogen, like horse dung,
are supplied, it is useless to attempt their culture.
Earthy materials are added to prevent the escape of am-
monia, which would pass off in fermentation, and the sub-
stances used are beaten and trodden to render the mass
compact, that fermentation may be slower and more last-
ing. The process of making the beds is as follows:
A sufficient quantity of the droppings of hard-fed
horses, pretty free from litter, must be obtained, which,
while collecting, must be kept dry, and spread out thinly
and turned frequently to prevent violent heating. When
the rank steam has escaped, the bed may be built. The
site should be dry. Dig out the earth six inches deep, the
374 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
size of the bed, and if good lay it aside for use. Fill this
trench with good fresh dung for the bottom, and lay on
this the prepared dung, until the whole is six inches thick
above the surface; beat it down firmly with the back of
the fork, and build up the sides with a slight but regular
slope. Let the bed slope downwards towards the walk,
lay over it three inches of good clayey loam; place
another layer ten or twelve inches thick of prepared dung,
and in the same manner continue until the bed is two and
a half or three feet thick. Cover the bed with clean litter,
to prevent drying and the escape of the gases, and let it
remain ten days, or until the temperature becomes mild
and regular; about 60°, and certainly not less than 50°, is
the proper degree of warmth. Here skill and practice are
most required, for on the treatment at this precise point
the success of the bed depends. If the manure has a
brown color, and is so loose and mellow that when pressed
it will yield no water, but has a fat, unctuous feel, with-
out any smell of fresh dung, the bed is in a right state.
If it is dry and hard, or sloppy and liquid, it is not in the
proper condition. In the first case moderate watering
may restore it, but in the latter the superabundance of
water will probably spoil it, and it is better to commence
anew. When the bed is ready, break the bricks of spawn
into lumps the size of a walnut, which plant regularly six
inches apart over the surface of the bed, including its
sides and ends, just beneath the surface of the manure.
Level the surface by gently smoothing with the back of
the spade. Fine rich loam, rather light than otherwise, is
then put on two inches thick; and over this, a covering of
straw from six to twelve inches, according to the tempera-
ture. If the bed gets too hot, take off most of the covering.
When the bed appears too dry, sprinkle it gently with soft
tepid water in the morning. The water should be poured
through the rose of a watering-pot upon a thin layer of
2s
VEGETABLES——DESCRIPTION AND CULTURE. 3190
straw, laid on for the purpose, and when the earth be-
comes a little moistened, the straw should be removed,
and the dry covering replaced. In warm weather it will
need frequent sprinkling, but in winter very little.
As cow-manure, though it contains less ammonia, re-
tains its heat longer than that of the horse, a mixture
of the two may be safely employed.
In four or five weeks after spawning the bed should
begin to produce, and if kept dry and warm will last
several months. A gathering may take place two or three
times a week according to the productiveness. If it should
not come on in two or three months, a little more warmth
or a sprinkling of water will generally bring it into:
plentiful bearing, unless the spawn has been destroyed
by overheating or too much moisture. In gathering the
mushrooms detach them with a gentle twist and fill the
cavity with mould; do not use a knife, as the stumps left
in the ground become the nurseries of maggots, which are
liable to infest the succeeding crop. Gather before they
become flat, when half an inch or more in diameter, and
still compact and firm.
U'se.-—This “voluptuous poison” has been cultivated and
held in high esteem among epicures since the time of the
tomans. They are employed in catsups, pickles, and rich
gravies, and considered by those accustomed to them very
delicious. Dried and powdered they are preserved in
closely stopped bottles for times when they are not to be
procured fresh. |
MUSTARD.—( Brassica alba, and B. nigra.)
The leaves of the White Mustard (S. alba) are used for
salads, and the seed of the Black Mustard (S. nigra) fur-
nishes the well-known condiment. Both are hardy annual
Cruciferous plants, and succeed in any good common
loam, but where sown in September to stand the winter,
316 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
as is common in the South for early greens, the soil should
be rather dry. White mustard may be sown any time of
the year for a salad, in the same manner as cress, which
see. It must be used when the seed-leaf is just expanded,
for if it gets into the rough leaf it is fit for nothing but
greens. For use, cut them off with a sharp knife. They
should be used soon after gathering. Mustard for greens
or for seed should be sown broadcast or in drills eighteen
inches apart, to be finally thinned to about a foot in the
drill. The leaves at the South are gathered the latter part
of winter or in early spring. Keep the ground free from
weeds. When grown for seed, gather when the pods
change color, and thresh when dry.
Besides the White and Black species there are several
varieties which are used in many portions of the South.
The Southern giant curled is most popular.
Use.—The tender leaves of both species are used for
salads, and should be more cultivated for this purpose.
They are also much cultivated for greens. The seeds
of the white variety, ground, form the Durham or London
table mustard, but the flower of the black sort is that from
which our American table mustard is, or ought to be,
made. The seeds may be ground in a common spice mill
or crushed by a roller on a table. In this country the flour
is usually sifted after grinding, but the French do not
separate the husk, and thus make a brownish flour, more
powerful and palatable than the other. Mustard is a very
agreeable condiment, assisting digestion and promoting
appetite. The seed used whole is an excellent seasoning
to various kinds of pickles. It is also much used in medi-
cine, both by the faculty and in domestic practice. It is
an acrid stimulant, and in large quantities acts as an
emetic. The proper dose for the latter is from a teaspoon-
ful to a tablespoonful in a glass of water. Mustard is a
local excitant applied to the skin in a cataplasm, made of
VEGETABLES—DESCRIPTION AND CULTURE. 37
che ground meal with vinegar or lukewarm water. Jf
mixed with boiling water the acrid principle will not be de-
veloped.
NASTURTIUM, or INDIAN CRESS.
(Tropwolum majus and T. minus.)
There are two species—the Large Nasturtium (7’.
majus) and the small Nasturtium (7’. minus)—both from
Peru, where they are perennials, but are here treated as
annuals. The large species was introduced into England
in 1681. The stalks are long and trailing; the leaves have
their petioles fixed at the center. Flowers helmet-shaped,
of a rich, brilliant orange, and continue from their first
appearance all summer; and if not so common would be
thought very beautiful. The small sort is preferable for
the garden, being productive and needing no support.
Culture.—Nasturtiums flourish in a moist soil, but do
best in a good, fresh loam. If the soil is too rich the plants
are luxuriant, but do not bear so abundantly, and the
fruit is of inferior flavor. Give them an open situation.
Sow in spring when the ground gets warm; put the seeds
an inch deep and four inches apart, covering them three-
fourths of an inch. The seed must be of the preceding
year’s growth. They may be sown by the side of a fence
or trellis. If more than one row is sown, they should be at
least four feet apart. Thin the plants, when they are well
up, to a foot in the drill. Hoe the ground well, and keep
down the weeds. If sown in the open ground, support
them as you would peas with lattice or brush. Give the
plants a little assistance in fastening themselves to the
trellis. Water in dry weather. Gather the fruit when
full grown, but while still fresh and green.
For Seed.—Let some of the berries mature, gather them
as they ripen, spread them to dry and harden, and store
in paper bags.
318 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
Use.—The flowers and young leaves are used in salads,
and have a warm taste like water cress. The flowers are
used in garnishing dishes. The fruit, gathered green and
pickled, forms an excellent substitute for capers.
OKRA.—/( /ibiscus esculentus.)
This is an annual Malvaceous plant, a native of the
West Indies, and much esteemed and cultivated wherever
its merits are known. There are several varieties—the
round, smooth green, and the long fluted or ribbed white,
which grow tall, also the dwarf. There is no great differ-
ence in quality, but the dwarf sort is best for gardens.
The White Velvet is a prolific bearer, and well suited to
the South. It has extra large smooth white pods in abun-
dance.
Okra likes a good, dry soil. Any soil will produce it
that is good enough for the cotton plant, which belongs to
the same natural family. The pods are not as pleasant nor
as early on over-rich soil. It is not planted until the frosts
are over, as it is tender, though it often comes up from
self-sown seed. The time of planting cotton or snap beans
is a very good guide, though some may be put in as an
experiment two weeks earlier. Make the drills three feet
apart, sow the seed rather thinly, and thin out to two feet
apart in the drill. Those thinned out may be transplanted
and will make productive plants. No seed should be
allowed to ripen on those stalks from which the pods are
gathered for eating. As fast as the pods become hard or
unfit for use, cut them off, for if left on, the stalk will
cease to be productive. If not allowed to ripen seed, the
plants will continue bearing through the season. The
dwarf okra may stand about fifteen inches apart in the
drill, and it is well when any plant begins to fail in pro-
ductiveness to cut it down to a foot from the ground, and
it will soon throw up bearing shoots.
eo?
VEGETABLES——DESORIPTION AND OULTURE. 379
To Save Seed.—Leave some of the earliest plants to
ripen seed, if you would have this vegetable in good sea-
son. Shell out the seed, and stow away in paper bags.
Use.—The pods gathered in a green state, and so tender
as to snap easily in the fingers, are the parts employed in
cooking. If old, they are worthless. They are very
wholesome, considerably nutritious, very mucilaginous,
and impart an agreeable richness to soups, sauces, and
stews. They are also simply boiled in salt and water, and
served up with butter, pepper, etc. Okra can be preserved
for winter use by putting down the pods in salt like
cucumbers, or by cutting them into thin slices and drying
like peaches. When dry, put up in paper bags.
THE ONION.—/( Allium Cepa.)
The genus Allium contains several of the most useful
plants of our gardens. In it, besides the proper onions,
are included the Garlic, Leek, Rocambole Shallots, and
Chives, which are treated of in their several places.
VARIETIES.—There is a great number of varieties of
Onions, among which are:
YELLOW StTrAsBuRG.—Large yellow, oval; often a lit-
tle flattened, very hardy; keeps exceedingly well. Best
for winter use at the South. Flavor strong.
YELLOW DANVERS.— Middle size, roundish oblate; neck
slender; skin yellowish-brown; early and good; keeps
well.
SILVER-SKINNED.—Of smaller size, but finer flavor, sil-
very white, flat, and very much used for pickling on ac-
count of its handsome appearance and mild flavor.
RED AND WHITE BERMUDA.—These are foreign varie-
ties, and they possess good qualities. The red Bermuda
is a very early onion. The white is a good-sized flat onion
of fine quality.
380 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
WHITE QUEEN.—A silver-skinned onion and excellent
for pickling; a rapid grower; very early and fine quality.
LARGE RED WETHERSFIELD.—The skin is red, while
the interior is white; flavor strong, and the keeping quali-
ties are excellent; an early
variety and a heavy yielder.
PRIZE TAKER AND GIANT
Rocca.—The first is a Spanish
and the latter an Italian variety..
Both produce large onions. The
Prize Taker has a yellow and the
Giant Rocca a red skin. The
flavor is good in the case of each,
and the flesh is tender. The first is a fine onion for the
South.
Fig. 137—Potato Onion.
EXTRA EARLY RED.—A very early onion growing to a
medium size; close grained and solid.
SouTHPoRT WHITE GLOBE.—Globular onion of a mild
flavor and good keeping quali-
ties. Highly prized in some sec-
tions of the South.
PoTaToO ONION.—This derives
its name from forming a number JZ
of bulbs on the parent root be-
neath the surface of the soil. It
ripens early, but does not keep
until spring. A sub-variety with
smaller bulbs is said to produce
bulbs on the stem like the top
onion. It is very prolific, and
affords a supply before other kinds are ready. Plant the
offsets in rows a foot apart, and ten inches in the row,
three inches deep, from October to March.
Fig. 138—Top Onion.
VEGETABLES—DESCRIPTION AND CULTURE. 381
Top OR TREE ONION (Allium Cepa. var. viviparum).—Is
said to have originated in Canada. It produces little
bulbs (‘‘ buttons”) at the top of the seed stems; hence its
name “ Tree Onion.” This is the easiest to manage of any
of the onions; is of good, mild flavor, early and productive
with little care, so that it is a favorite in climates too cold
and too warm for the other varieties. Plant the buttons
from October to March in drills one foot apart and six
inches in the drill. Plant the apex of the button just
beneath the surface of the soil. The small top bulbs are
fine for pickling.
CIBOULE OR WELSH ONION (Allium fistulosum).—Of two
kinds—white and red; is quite distinct from the common
onion, and does not bulb. It is sown in September for
drawing early in spring. Flavor strong, very hardy.
Thompson describes twenty sorts of onion, of which the
foregoing are the best. Of these the first two and the top
onion are to be preferred for general use.
Culture—The method of cultivating the onion has
undergone quite a change since 1867, when this work was
passing through its second edition. Then it was the uni-
versal custom in the South to raise onions from seeds
planted immediately in the open garden, where the crop
was to be matured. The sowing was done in February in
beds richly manured, and the plants matured the onions
about May or June. This method is still in practice in
some localities, but generally it is now superseded by
what is known as the “New Onion Culture.” This method
consists in sowing the seeds in cold frames in December
or in hot-beds in January, and as soon as the young
plants produce bulbs one-quarter of an inch in diameter,
and when the season is far enough advanced, they are
transplanted in the field or garden in rows two feet apart
and three to four inches in the rows. This method of cul-
382 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
tivation insures extra size to the onion, earliness in the
crops and an improvement in the flavor.
The transplanting is rapidly accomplished by the use
of a dibble, made of a piece of wood one inch square and
six inches long, shaved to a flat point at one end, and a
cross piece fastened to the other for a handle. cleccioe eles 900 pounds.
TE See Mars Pe toye coves evar arauaraeks ays covslo" aie (le aeons eiehe Deoeake 900 pounds.
Cotton=seeds-mealraccoslios cic o hele te ete en: 200 pounds.
2,000 pounds.
“The above is a low-grade fertilizer and should be ap-
plied as before, at the rate, however, of three pounds per
vine, instead of two.”
The training and pruning of the grape vine are essen-
tial to perfect fruit development and convenience in
gathering the crop. There are excellent works in exist-
ence fully devoted to this subject, and which explain
clearly the modus operandi. The reader is advised to study
such books if a vineyard of large dimensions is contem-
plated; but, to assist those persons who have not the
opportunity to examine such works, and who desire to
erow grapes on a limited scale, the following general in-
struction is given. The material used in the preparation
of what follows on pruning and training has been
508 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
liberally drawn from the writings of Professor E. G.
Lodeman, late horticulturist of Cornell University Ex-
periment Station; Professor L. H. Bailey, of the same
institution, and Mr. Hugh N. Starnes, horticulturist of
the Georgia Experiment Station.
lor a better understanding of the terms used the fol-
lowing definitions are given:
Shoot.—The growth of wood less than one year old.
Cane.—Mature shoots of one year’s growth.
Arm.—Mature wood stems of three years’ and more
growth.
Spur.—A shortened or pruned cane, generally bearing
only from one to four buds.
“The operation of pruning the vine is performed for
the sole purpose of removing such wood as will not bear,
or such as is supposed to interfere with the production of
the finest crop of fruit that the plant is able to mature.
Its primary object, therefore, is to reduce the amount of
bearing wood, and thereby thin the fruit so that the roots
of the vine are not taxed beyond their capacity.
“All the fruit is, of course, borne upon the shoots which
erow from the buds now found upon the canes; the canes,
therefore, must be removed, and not the older wood, for
the latter serves as the framework upon which the canes
are maintained.
“In cutting away the canes, all wood which has not
properly matured should be removed, and those shoots
which have made an excessive growth, forming ‘ bull
canes,’ are also undesirable. The medium-sized, short-
jointed, and well-matured wood is to be preferred, and
such wood only. Yet some of this well developed wood
must also be sacrificed, until the amount allowed to re-
main upon the plant is reduced to the, proper proportion.
Assuming that the plant can mature the fruit produced
by twenty-four buds (the number of buds left may vary
FRUITS—VARIETIES AND CULTURE. 509
from two to fifty or more), about thirty buds could be
allowed to develop. These should be uniformly dis-
tributed according to the system of training employed;
they may be left upon five canes, each cane having six
buds, or the distribution may be varied according to cir-
cumstances. But such is in general the method adopted
in the vineyard for estimating the proper amount of bear-
ing wood to leave upon each cane. As a result of such
systematic pruning, the fruit from the vine is larger and
more fair; it is also produced more regularly, since the
maturing of too heavy a crop weakens the vine so that
it is unable to mature even an average amount of fruit
the following year. A vine properly pruned and fertilized
should bear about the same amount of fruit each year
from the time it comes into full bearing, A secondary
benefit derived from pruning is the reduced stature of the
plant. This aliows more vines to be set upon a given
piece of land, and it enables the work of cultivating,
spraying and harvesting to be performed much more
easily and profitably.
“Training, on the other hand, is almost wholly a mat-
ter of convenience. It does not affect the strength of the
vine or the value of the crop in any essential particular.
The training of a vine refers to the disposal or arrange-
ment of the various parts of the vine after pruning has
taken place. The method of training adopted determines
the operator to leave certain growths in certain portions,
not because more or better fruit is expected, but for the
reason, perhaps, that the fruit may be harvested with
greater ease; that a laborious operation may be wholly
dispensed with, or that there may be less danger to the
maturing crop from the winds or other natural agencies.
The method of training adopted by a vineyardist is
largely the result of personal preference, or of education,
although soil and variety are important factors in the
510 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
selection of the system. The health and vigor of the
vines are rarely affected by the method in which it is
trained, and although some system of training must be
adopted in every vineyard, still altogether too much
weight has been laid by most horticultural writers upon
the particular merits of the various systems, while the
actual ruinous effects of bad pruning have not always
been sufficiently emphasized. A vine properly trained is
desirable, but a properly pruned vine is essential to the
highest success.
“1. The amount of fruit which a vine can bear and
mature in the highest perfection is limited; when this
limit is exceeded the fruit deteriorates.
“9. Upon the fruit the effect of overproduction is to
reduce the size of the berries and of the clusters, and
probably also to impair the quality; the vines make a
poor growth, the foliage is small, and the vigor of the
plant is generally reduced. When a vine has been allowed
to overbear, especially when it is young, years may some-
times be required before a vine returns to its normal
condition.
“3. A plant which is carrying less fruit than it is capa-
ble of maturing generally produces a very heavy foliage
and an excess of wood.
“4, All the fruit of the vine in any one year is borne
upon the shoots of that year, which grow from the canes
produced the preceding year; and since the number of
clusters borne upon a single shoot is fairly constant (vary-
ing generally from one to three), the number of buds left
upon a vine when it is pruned, determines with consider-
able accuracy the number of clusters which the vine will
possess. Usually more buds are allowed to remain than
would be’safe if each one were sure to be perfect.
“5. The position of the bearing wood upon a vine is
of secondary importance as regards the effect upon the
VARIETIES AND CULTURE. 511
FRUITS
quantity and quality of the fruit; but as a frequent
change or renewal of the entire top of the vine appears
to be desirable, the young bearing wood should be as near
the root of the plant as circumstances will allow. When
the important relation of these essential points to success-
ful grape growing is thoroughly considered, the secondary
character of training of the vine becomes apparent.”
NORE oo
or
Fig. 197—Overhead Kniflin, or Caywood System.
There are many systems of training the vines, all of
which may be grouped into three classes, depending upon
the direction in which the shoots are made to grow.
1. The upright system.
2. The pendant, or drooping, system.
3. The horizontal system.
The first, or upright system, is well illustrated in the
method adopted in some sections of the South, where the
GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
i|
SSS==
Ai t()
i! So Meal
‘ue oho °
Fig. 199—Continuous Arbc1 System—Pruned Vines,
FRUITS—VARIETIES AND CULTURE. 513
vines are trained to posts. The horizontal-arm spur, or
Fuller system, is another illustration of the upright
method. The method of training by arbor is the horizon-
tal system, and it has its advantages as well as disad-
vantages. The scuppernong is generally cultivated in
this way. The overhead Kniffin is a representation of the
drooping system, and this system is very popular through
many sections of the South.
Where grapes are cultivated on a small seale it pays
the cultivator to bag the fruit, the recompense coming in
the shape of superior fruit, and protection against the
attacks of insects and disease.
33
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FRUITS—-VARIETIES
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seldom eaten raw, but for baking, stewing, preserving,
marmalades, or pies, along with apples, they are much
esteemed. They are also dried for winter use, giving an
excellent flavor to dried apples and peaches.
For these purposes the quince has been long in cultiva-
tion, having been in great esteem among the Greeks and
Romans. The mucilage from the seeds was formerly used
in medicine instead of gum-water. The quince is propa-
gated from seed, layers, slips or cuttings, and grows very
readily from the latter. Cuttings, if planted about the
time the buds commence swelling in the spring, rarely
fail to grow. Quinces usually reproduce themselves from
seed, but occasionally vary. Quince stocks are very much
used for budding the pear upon, for which the Angers
quince is preferred, although we have found the common
or apple-shaped equally good in every respect. The
quince likes a deep, moist soil and cool exposure, growing
naturally upon the banks of streams. It, however, grows
to admiration in any good, rich, friable soil, and no tree is
more benefited by manuring, especially with vegetable
manure, Salt is said to act beneficially if applied during
winter. If applied occasionally in small doses at a dis-
632 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
tance from the trunk, the fruit will not drop; plant the
trees ten feet apart.
The quince is subject to the blight, like the pear, and is
also attacked by the borer which infests the apple; the
blighted portion must be cut off and burned, as with the
pear. The borer must be dug out.
The best fruit is obtained from those trained in the
form of a tree, but on account of the borer it is best to use
the bush form with three or four main stems, so if one
is destroyed there are others left to take its place. Thus
trained, the bush should be moderately pruned, or the
fruit will be inferior. If there is an over-crop, the fruit
should be thinned. The quince begins to bear when three
or four years transplanted. Varieties:
APPLE OR ORANGE-SHAPED.—This is the common
variety, with large, roundish fruit, with a short neck;
skin light golden yellow; flesh firm, but stews tender;
leaves oval; shoots slender. If the core be cut out and
the hole filled with sugar and baked, it forms a fine
dessert dish.
PEAR-SHAPED.—Fruit large, pyriform, oblong, taper-
ing to the stalk; skin yellow; flesh of firmer texture than
when preserved, and not quite as good in flavor and color
as the former. Fruit ripens a fortnight later, and when
picked, keeps much longer; leaves oblong-ovate. Tree
of more vigorous growth, but does not bear so well.
PorTUGAL.—Fruit still more oblong, of lighter color,
milder flavored, and of better quality than the preceding
kinds; leaf larger and broader; shoots stouter; ripens
between the other two; a shy bearer, pretty good as a
stock for the pear. Tree larger than the other varieties.
ANGERS.—A variety of the last, the strongest grower
of all the quinces, and much used for pear stocks. The
fruit is said to be larger and better than any other kind.
FRUITS—VARIETIES AND CULTURE. 633
CHINESE QUINCE (Cydonia Sinensis)—Leaves resemble
those of the common quince in form, but have a glossy
surface; the flowers are rose-colored, with a delicate
fragrance, similar to that of the violet. The fruit is very
large, oblong, and somewhat ribbed like a muskmelon;
skin golden yellow; flesh hard and acrid, but is said to
make a desirable preserve. A very beautiful shrub when
in fruit.
THE RASPBERRY .—/( fubus.)
The Raspberry is a low, deciduous shrub, of which seyv-
eral species are common along the fences, both in Europe
and America. The large-fruited varieties most esteemed
in our gardens all originated from the long cultivated
Rubus Idoeus, or Mount Ida Bramble, which appears first
to have been introduced into the gardens of the south of
Kurope from Mount Ida. It is now quite naturalized in
some parts of the country. Besides this we have growing
wild the common black and white raspberry, or Thimble-
berries (Rubus occidentalis), and the red raspberry (Rubus
strigosus), with very good fruit.
Uses.—The raspberry is held in general estimation, not
only as one of the most refreshing and agreeable fruits
for the dessert, but it is employed generally for pre-
serving, jams, ices, sauces, tarts and jellies; and on a
larger scale by confectioners for making syrups, and by
distillers for making brandy. Raspberry wine is made
in the same way as currant wine, and is considered the
most fragrant of all domestic wines.
Propagation.—The raspberry is propagated by suckers
or by dividing the roots. The seeds are planted only when
new varieties are desired.
Soil and Culture-—The best soil is a rich, deep loam.
rather moist than dry, provided it 1s not too much ex
posed to our hot Southern sun. The raspberry succeeds
654 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
best at the South when planted on the north side of a
fence or building, but where it can have the morning sun;
planted in the shade of trees it never does well. Give a
good manuring every spring with well-rotted stable
manure, and keep clear from grass and weeds with the
hoe; prune out the old dead canes every spring. A fine
late crop can readily be obtained by cutting over the
whole stool, in the spring, to within a few inches of the
ground. They will then shoot up fresh wood, which
comes into bearing in August or September.
Varieties.—The finest raspberries in general cultivation
for the dessert are the Red and White Antwerp, Cuthbert,
Fastolf, Golden Queen, Orange, French, Franconia,
Gregg, Philadelphia, Shaffer’s Colossal, and Turner.
The common American Red is most esteemed for
flavoring liquors, or making brandy and cordials; and the
American Black is preferred by most persons for cooking.
The ever-bearing varieties are esteemed for prolonging
the season of this fruit.
RED ANTWERP (Lf. /doeus).—This variety is also known
as Old Red Antwerp, Knevett’s Antwerp, True Red Ant-
werp, Howland’s Red Antwerp, Burley, etc. It is the
common Red Antwerp of England and America, and is
quite distinct from the North River variety, which is
shorter in growth, and has conical-shaped fruit. Canes
strong and tall; spines light red, rather numerous, and
pretty strong; fruit large, nearly globular, color dark red,
with large grains, and covered with a thick bloom; juicy,
with a brisk vinous flavor.
FASTOLF (I. /doeus)—One of the most vigorous of the
foreign varieties, and does very well in Georgia. Fruit
very large, roundish, conical, purplish-red; tender, rich,
and high-flavored. Canes strong, erect, branching, with
strong spines. The foregoing are all that we can recom-
mend for Southern cultivation from personal experience.
FRUITS—VARIETIES AND CULTURE. 635
The variety cultivated in the Northern States is very
large; many of them we have tested here with but poor
SUCCESS.
CUTHBERT (R. strigosus)—This is one of the most de-
sirable raspberries for the South. The fruit is red, large,
Fig 276—Gregg Raspberry (after Bailey). Natural size. Cornell
Experiment Station Bulletin.
Juicy and fine flavored. It ripens about the middle or
latter part of May.
GREGG (R. occidentalis) —Fruit large round-ovate, black
to dark purple. Ripens a short time before the Cuthbert.
This is one of the best of the black-cap varieties. A
favorite market variety.
636 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
GOLDEN QUEEN (Rf. strigosus)—An excellent summer
variety; fruit is large and round-conical, yellow color;
prolific and good flavor.
SCHAFFER’S COLOSSAL (R. neglectus)—This is one of
the cap varieties. The fruit is very large, round, of a dull
purple, with an acid flavor, and productive. A hardy
plant for the dry summers of the Seuth. Late and a good
shipping fruit.
TURNER (ft. strigosus)—A red raspberry and, like the
last, suitable for the Soutl*, because it withstands the
Fig. 277—Golden Queen Raspberry.
hot summers admirably, and it produces fruit of excel-
lent quality and beauty.
MARKETING.—The fruit must be packed in small
baskets holding not more than a pint because in greater
bulk the berries are easily crushed and ruined by their
own weight. These pint boxes are then placed in cases
holding twenty-four pints, with ample ventilation, so
that the fruit will keep cool. Ship promptly and over the
shortest routes, since the raspberry will not keep long
after being gathered.
ied
FRUITS—VARIETIES AND CULTURE. 637
STRAWBERRY .—/( F’ragaria.)
The botanical name of the Strawberry is derived from
the delightful fragrance of the ripe fruit. Its common
name has arisen from the ancient practice of laying straw
between the plants, to keep the ground moist and the
fruit clean. This fruit is fragrant, delicious, and univer-
sally esteemed. The first offering of the season, in the
way of ripe fruit, nothing that comes after it can excel “a
dish of ripe strawberries smothered in cream,” or fresh
from the plant. It is, indeed, the most popular and whole-
some of all the small fruits; for, besides its grateful
flavor, the subacid juice has a cooling quality peculiarly
acceptable in summer. In addition to its excellence for
the dessert, it is a favorite fruit for making jams, ices,
jellies, and preserves.
The English wood strawberry was the first brought
into cultivation. Says old Tusser, turning over its culti-
vation to the ladies, as beneath his attention:
“Wife, unto the garden, and set me a plot
With strawberry plants, the best to be got,
Such growing abroad, amid trees in the wood,
Well chosen and picked, prove excellent good.”
Plants taken directly from the field into the garden
yield at once a tolerable crop. This climate is well
adapted to the culture of this fruit, since by giving the
plants a due supply of moisture, fruit can be gathered
the greater part of the summer and autumn.
In its natural state, the strawberry generally produces
perfect or hermaphrodite flowers; the hermaphrodite are
those which have both the stamens and pistils so well
developed as to produce a tolerably fair crop of fruit.
Cultivation has so affected the strawberry in this respect,
that there are now three classes of varieties. First, those
in which the male or staminate organs are always per-
638 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
fect; but the female, or pistillate organs, are so defective
that they will very rarely bear perfect fruit. Those are
called staminate. Second, those in which the female, or
pistillate organs, are perfect; but in which the male
organs are generally so defective that they cannot pro-
duce fruit at all, unless in the neighborhood of, and fer-
tilized by, staminate or hermaphrodite plants. Impreg-
nated by these, they bear enormous crops. Third, those
which, like the native varieties, are true hermaphrodites;
that is, perfect in stamens and more or less perfect in
pistils, so that they generally produce a tolerable crop,
Fig. 278.
Imperfect or Fig. 279.
Pistillate. Perfect or Bisexual.
and, in favorable seasons, the pistils being fully de-
veloped, they will produce a good one.
This is called the staminate class in some books. The
first of these classes, the staminate, rarely producing
fruit, and running exuberantly to vine, should be dug up
wherever found, since the hermaphrodite are productive,
and equally useful for fertilizing. It is to the pistillate
varieties, fertilized by the hermaphrodite, that we must
look for large crops of fruit.
In beds of each of these varieties, seedlings will spring
up, differing from the parents; but runners from any
variety will always produce flowers of the same class and
similar in all respects to the parent plant. By the due
admixture of hermaphrodite and pistillate plants, five
thousand quarts have been picked from an acre at Cin-
FRUITS—VARIETIES AND CULTURE. 639
cinnati, where the strawberry season is usually less than
a month.
Potash, soda and phosphoric acid are the elements
most likely to be wanting in the soil. Wood ashes and
the carbonates of potash and soda prove very beneficial
applications.
Propagation and Culture.—To raise the strawberry in
perfection requires good varieties, a proper location, care-
ful cultivation, vegetable manure, mulching the roots,
and regular watering.
The strawberry bed should be in the lowest part of the
garden, succeeding best on a bottom near some little
stream of water, where the soil is moist and cool; no trees
or plants should be allowed to overshadow it, to drink up
the moisture of the soil. New land is the best, and the
most easily kept free from weeds. The soil should be
dug or plowed deep.
It is not required to be very rich, unless with decayed
vegetable matter, as animal manures produce only a
growth of vine. Plant good, vigorous runners from old
stocks, three feet apart each way; three rows of pistil-
lates, and then one row of good hermaphrodites, and so
on, until the bed or plot is filled; cultivate precisely as
you would corn, and as often. As the runners appear, cut
them off, and keep the plants in hills; this is a much bet-
ter plan than to permit them to run together and occupy
the entire surface of the ground; after the beds have done
fruiting, still keep them clear from grass and weeds, and
when the leaves fall from the trees in the fall, give a good
coat of these as a winter protection.
There is no fruit which has been so greatly improved
within the last few years as has the strawberry, in size,
productiveness, and flavor; it is now as generally culti-
vated as the apple or any of our standard vegetables.
Most of the then esteemed varieties are now superseded
640 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
by new and improved ones. The following represent
some of the most desirable varieties for the South:
The following varieties are early strawberries:
Bubach (No. 5), Hoffman,
Cloud, Lady Thompson,
Crescent, Meek,
Greenville, Michel (very early).
The following varieties are medium in maturing:
Bederwood, Haverland,
Captain Jack, Jessie,
Cumberland, Neunan,
Downing, Parker Earle,
Enhance, Sharpless,
Wilson.
The following varieties are late strawberries:
Brandywine, Gandy, Eureka,
The following varieties are especially desirable for
most sections of the South: Bederwood, Brandywine,
Bubach No. 5, Crescent, Cumberland, Downing, Enhance,
Gandy, Greenville, Haverland, Hoffman, Lady Thomp-
son, Michel Early, Neunan, Parker Earle, Sharpless,
Wilson.
The following are good market varieties, and will ship
well: Bederwood, Bubach No. 5, Cloud, Crescent, En-
hance, Gandy, Haverland, Hoffman, Lady Thompson,
Michel, Neunan, Parker Earle, Wilson.
Bupacnu, No. 5 (pistillate).—The plants are vigorous in
some sections and weak in others. Leaf large, runners
few, fruit large, irregular in shape, inclined to conical,
light red; not a good shipper.
ies.
Straw berr
ssle
Je
Plate 17
1es.
Bubach No. 5 Strawberr
Plate 18—
Photcgraphs by R
(641)
Watts, Tennessee Experiment Station,
L.
41
642 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
Tp
Varieties.
a 1 2 . mn
3 “aA
S a. : = S
= ie $ a [oy wn 3 wn
roy a 3 D : — a a &
z = ° “4 D 3 S| D D 3 Fa
= a ia &0 v BS) a ne S wD fo)
by a & i) A os] “
wy ie) 2) 2 wn I »
Hi o ° qa } eI D as 5 a
= . 2 o o at I = e ° C-}
> Z wa S i Fy <4 = < ed
Bederwood......... Nie ae eee eles are x *% ¥ % See bare
Belmonte. wee nape alladaca lack cas % Sotum looede.s HK feces [ecsees SESE [Noles scaly
Brandywine......... x x x * * *% x* * * * *
Bubach No. 5...... x x* x x xX x x* ae *% * *
Captain Jack 02-2 0./- =| = ce ees epee ail are = * * * * x* *
Cloud: Soccceach cane alee: svateved iffet== 2 "| |stepad=e=s wees x* * Be * x x%
Clyde. ER seg Ua Soe eee oe ET] eo Necetton note | Gchkertie oleh oto svat stall, os beeps Sacrsirs
Crescentic--- +e * xX x ** *% * * = we x a
Cumberland........ % | xx x | *x *% % x | x * epi emeee
Downing. .-c-cecn: % XX * * * * * * * * *
Hnihtance...-.---0- x x x * * x * X% en ae SS
HHOrmMous .. -. O98) [Psa 355 ys ae ere see Ad Sano motocollo cid telco doe alan 5 Slerters
MUTE a eiebiast online 5 x x % *% Pa 6 | (oa
Gandy she 525 ce: x xe *% eK XX * xX x* * *
Greenville.......... x x x * * ¥ * x * x *
Haverland....... x *% x xX HH lls = % * x x*® *
JEON yy. Aomno coo : % x x* x *x% * x a peed x
JIOSSTC Ray. tasteclo osu x % x x ¥ H forces foresee a OID
Lady Thompson. . x % x x x x xX * * x% *
Meek’s Harly.... .. : x % x me feoceee: * x * * *
Michel Early........ x x x* xX x% *% x% XX x x
MiG Winer ANS Ae Age oance x HK [eee %% x x * ** *
Parker Earle... .... x x * x x * * * oa we
Sharplessis..a.< 84 WOGKicssecugoooHas GOOCONOUOOOCOUDOOOGGNE 1 acre
3 IHOGKS s< 7A) TROIS, sococesngoe socoouaKeGunOD DAO OOCOUC 1 acre
ABO CSEXeA OOO Steep eieitcrs\crstelere) cal ciclereverciajeve: sleveleversteisie 1 acre
EVAL Spa O Suny. CO Siete cot cletebatslctiettelicl ol.e/e)s\ sels leleveereiel el sles 1 acre
MOM Van SUXe4 Seay AEC Seer cychstevers sks «<1 os|) oy BiL AVEnOSngos.codn cu OneOUOUn DOOD OCDOOCUe 1 acre
a MECC Lexa SeehE Serre apravcisicl ares 5) 0846) eVe.ers 8 sisleuolers 'e.e e/eherete 1 acre
il@), THESES BO) lec coo cecocoenmS AO DOOCG0U COCO CUOUOC 1 acre.
(HO) ikea oe (AG eGo d goood ob ud endo odeoorod pons codoc 1 acre.
IAA) HE 5 BOS HEU Goodeboosa acon aGueUcoUotODOOtDOd 1 acre
21) ume Lexan |S MCC Iretetere eterchelevclsiehe ele loveYoie cieie| oitea\ el elelorsi coke % acre.
NQOM RCE exe IM Soom CC ris spelerchesersis/ sie ele: cfefope sis cia) eles el eereieers 4 acre
NO OMe e texan S29 RenGe Gere stercisiciereloleietsiererererecieieicieloielo elclelelele + acre:
PAS, aieKere, >:< allWND) GIG bo gc peo cud 60.00 bilo OO Od OO UR OOOOTOGOD 057 acre.
2 ECC exaillo One Clases teratere terete) stsjets incchoraiellellere) oer olor sic eters 2 LOS vacre:
AS ORS (UMAR CLE Clniipateie eter cnere lore ior siecle otepele orsiiers eels ole’) ele}elcss 10 acre.
Number of Trees or Plants to an Acre (Henderson):
SERS Ole cpantousveverecteve/etersiei oie 48 Giese O85) Se apeonte yep ereterere sie 1210
EERE ONAN eh ta| co sacy wal lonel sie ecg 69 ByEKe Dig rave! stsvare ei ere evens evens 1742
DO pXed Oar erejereysiS sieves cevoleree 108 DiNGAe craiaerateiersratenetnchste 2178
UID SXABI HS Pe ciate si ectectisie. sei 120 DERG! Waravebevatchete eiowtere ote 2904
A REXCE OH eesae sr syeice ca lessichetes = 134 DORI vel miata cbecoustes evefelers 4356
AN FeeeXol eda ic vavetes opaistst Gh aereie 150 DEA ate ecsyanesrelsve acre 8712
El Gisxel Gise Siac, cre ols witliare ots 170 BATS valate a creitaess 3: ayevecers 2722
Il saliiwee pMagonooraodot 193 ASKED Aho wf Siaveess wieie ais 3630
AKT ANG cpt eioan vheree ces) ecsrels 222 AUSE DI Fes svete siieselsveierthers 5445
HS EXE MS eceegets enevs al elate eelelele 257 Lp. 6 LEAR U GLORIA EI 6 10390
1S: OAS Sete tee Re oar 302 Bip: Sa erraaicns Heo rich ite 4870
slalsxaal les eect erake saa ocsie loka 360 SEXG A cco siskehens tere sve cise 7260
il) 5c ob pomederenoorGs 435 Sa Mer eca tte na ave eevee 14520
Olam Oetrerets csischa S sissesie's 537 TS A TAME IN SREP OPV O RSC 10890
Sexe Siemteycicvotets sic sreterlaneye 680 EO TR 5, scare iaevsronate tote Ones 21780
64
648 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
Composition of Vegetables and Fruits.
(DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE.)
ag
NITROGEN.
WATER. | PROTEIN. Fat. FREE ASH.
EXTRACT.
VEGETABLES:
ASDaMARUS naam: pare 94.00 1.80 0.30 2.80 0.70
Beans (Mima)is..).sca0sees.) 68.46 7.15 0.69 20.30 1.69
Beans (String) ss. cces ees o- Sins 2220 0.37 7.52 0.76
Beets (Red) ss.) eee ee tee 88 50 1.50 0.10 8.00 1.00
IBECHSISU san) eno cehe eee 86.50 1.80 0.10 9.80 0.90
Caibpareksnces: te een ce 90.30 210 0.40 5.80 1.40
Carrot. Meee saoe eon 88.20 1.10 0.40 9.20 1.10
Collards cecce can censs at 87.10 4 50 0.60 6.30 , 1.50
Celery cess: seceeatereen o: 94.50 1.10 0.10 3.30 1.00
@orni(G@reen)) ss. 060. ee 2 75.40 3.10 1.10 19.70 0.70
CormiiSweet)iercs.oncsocce oe 81.25 2.81 1.10 13.67 0.66
COW PERkci aoe oscee nce nent 14.80 20.75 1.44 55.72 8.22
Cauliflower. * scs.cecacklocetas 90.80 1.60 0.80 4.90 ° 0.80
@Cucumibers\- reese see aneee 96.00 0.80 0.20 1.80 0.50
Heo planibeaiave sen waceiseee . 92.93 1.15 0.31 4.34 0.50
LAG HEI} Olt eeoad ane One cena 91.10 2.00 0.10 5.50 1.30
Webuice,. 2s) mae 95.90 0.97 0.20 1.60 0.78
MiIShTOOnISH.-s0r renee 88.10 3.50 0.40 6.80 1.20
OMMONS ewer vas ractee eters 87.60 1.40 0.30 9.40 1.40
Parsnips!.....- 83.00 1 60 0.50 13.50 1.40
Ora eh tee octets oy eee he 87.41 1.99 0.40 6.04 0.74
PED EANIS ae eins oe see eee = 93.40 0.90 0.10 3.90 0.70
RAGISHES Ba tae aes wre 91.80 1 30 0.10 5.80 1.00
BoObatoesiGinishi sence sass ae 98.00 2.20 0.10 18.80 0.90
Potatoes (Sweet)........ aces 71.10 1.50 0.40 Oe 1.00
Peas (Green).. eee aeeene 78.06 1.66 0.55 14.48 0.88
iba bee scas eee ves are 94.40 0.60 0.70 3.60 0.70
Spinacheerseceseceeece 92.40 2.10 0.50 2.40 1.94
MOULAS ESB iyecr -eclstere-foeesavcis 88.10 0.90 0.20 9.10 1.70
VUES = DAP Ais cs ccrciatetceetarertials <2 88.60 1 20 0.20 7.50 1.20
MLOMALOCS See Sake iocrecincteert 91.26 1.00 0.47 5.84 0.73
ALbheathoch sascha caactoboteades 90.50 1.10 0.20 6.20 0.80
FRUITS:
Npplesi i cthn. ohdoute sees 84.11 0.21 0.28 14.26 0.23
PRD TIC OUSUN. eas) Ie ore 85.00 1.10 aie 13.40 0.50
SAVANE ohetetocs lore ate ee ee 66.25 1.41 118%) 28.88 1.15
Bla ckperriesh sus. anes oeee 88.91 0.94 2.08 5.03 0.58
Cherrieses. oss. bee essaneee 85.10 1.10 0.84 11.14 0.58
Cranberries. jcc ssesere eee 88 90 0.40 0.60 9.90 0.20
Gun aPOS Re Sera tie ster erecteee 77.40 1.30 1.60 19.20 0.50
Miursikan elon s:nieswesmemacnee 89.50 0.60 9.30 0.60
IU CIMOMS iyi jos scinjacscielee season 89.30 1.00 0.90 7.20 0.50
Oranges ze. waene clement Sao e 86.90 0.80 0.20 11.60 0.50
IPGR TSM caak ee cepa 84 40 0 60 0.50 14.10 0.40
PersimimonsSenn- tess ocer : 66.10 0.80 0.70 31.50 0.90
Pineapples......<: 2%: a eps tits 89.28 0.39 0.26 9.31 0.35
IP TIN Sa ak balectertercisies ; 78.40 1.00 BeAr 20.10 0.50
Pomegranates....... ... 76.80 1.50 1.60 19.50 0.60
RASPDRRVIES Hicnice mons os 85.82 0 99 1.00 12.60 0.60
Strawberries ...... | 90.80 1.00 0.70 5.50 0.60
Watermelons..... : 92.40 0.40 0.20 6.70 0.30
Whortleberries... 3 82.42 0.66 3.03 10.31 0.41
Nuts:
ALIMOMGS sue Stan) asierree 4.80 21.00 54.90 17.30 2.00
Butternuts.......... 4.40 27.90 61.20 3.50 2.90
Chestnuts...... 45.00 6.20 5.40 42.10 1.30
Cocoanuts (Flesh) 14.10 5.70 50.60 27.90 1.70
Cocoanuts (Milk). ; 92.70 0.40 1.50 4.60 0.80
MIMeRIS ee sataeeie Ames 3.70 15.60 65.30 13.00 2.40
Hickorynuts... .... 3.70 15.40 67.40 11.40 2.10
BA TINBUSH cle pie lievetiee 9.20 25.80 38.60 24.40 2.00
PCCANSiGC sscueaee 3.00 11.00 71.20 13.30 1.50
Walnuts (Black). 2.50 27.60 56.3 11.70 1.90
USEFUL TABLES AND FORMULAE. 649
Distances Apart for Planting Fruits in Commercial Plantations (Year Book
Department of Agriculture, 1897):
Saran (Giwasieis) eaesereersie crete ey thee inirevetar she) scene tes excyeneifereie svSieveye oreo 16 x 16
COUNT OP nmeecte arn Nera unc Revol spare. ct oteye avis oc erefsle. Sissi’ s sraaeel 16 x 16
/NOINCOUSY did ale niche ded GCAO dl BRO orONniO Ol aie OIOId Ac lore .oity ciriotnasipiercacre ition 30 x 30
@HEETIES EA (SWeel) Meise eke ore cee laters: tle nied Se amele yt 30 x 30
650 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
WY een oho 2 SRS EONS SS SEES aes ehecats ereuebere ome eee Ckeuet alsheten ay anes 50 x 50
40 x 40
BAEK Derri@Sis h..3: nsc5 Salas eee eas ee Tea Cee newt eee a ee boxes
6x 6
RaSpbDErries 4. cst e esi ciara Seo oar ar To renee aren oe 6x 4
Currants: and 2ooSseberniesie sae tisteiies sete) ieee eee Gps
Straw Derbles: os .Sscsa ss.eo SAS ces tie iene chee eet re eeeeas eee x4
il>< 3}
exe alt
(Oicchatleley go eee me eee neato. Aeron sence ctotc cna.coD moms. o.o. Pye Ly
The distance suitable for fruit trees and plants in commercial plan-
tations varies considerably in different regions. The more important
factors in determining the proper distance for any given species are
the fertility of the soil, the supply of soil moisture, the habit of growth
and relative vigor of the varieties, and the necessity of providing suffi-
cient space for operating spraying machinery in combating insects and
fungi. Observation of local practice affords the safest guide in doubt-
ful cases.
Time When Seed Should Sprout:
Days Days
IBCAN veers te pees 5—10 se thiGerer ceo eee 5—10
ISBECOT Biel case wists 7—10 LO }ah Kos oWeaeercesteeeren AS 7 icc 6— 8
Cabbaces.. noe ee 5—10 PGA)» cin bheies aa 7—10
@arrOtion ot ces er 12—18 Parsnip ogis ycicneroee 6—10
Cauwhiilowere ssn 2 aes 5—10 Pepper 27sec aneeere 10—20
(CIGARS j Gumbo cole ons 10—20 Radish® ii.osere haere 9—14
COLrny Beets cctools eee 5— 8 Salisify, ca. asm 3— 6
CucwmMDer yee ai? 6— 8 Tomato) ca. 7—12
OTC Mare cr wus eto 6—10 Mirniip macs oe eee 6—12
Injurious Temperatures.
(WwW W. Hammon in Weather Bureau Bulletin 23.)
Table of temperatures at which the following plants are liable to re-
ceive injury from frost, compiled from information received from horti-
culturists, orchardists, and gardeners throughout the entire Pacific
coast
USEFUL TABLES AND FORMULAE. 651
The temperatures given are, as nearly as possible, those of the air
in contact with the plant itself.
5 4 4 5)
: Bi | : q |
a | & | = Bet fea Rae
Plants or Fruits. : & o Plants or Fruits. : D & a
ue} n ve) P| se) D 3 =
aps = 3 Bais 2 | eS
2 2 2 fe) a 2 a °
< = a » ro! q | a
KB 4 4 a 4 4 = <4
(o} 2) | | ° | | o) fo) fo) °
Almonds. .. We Deh eeesOe| BOM ROSH OOTONS. oc. cac |) x cstlerccullesse alley 20
BDIES 3. 27 29 30 26 | . - 2 ag | Wet26
Apricots....... 3o| 81| 82] 80 || Orangest.........) 30) 81) 81) } Gog
Asparagus... . 29 29 29 26 ES TAU Se ctyarsco severe | Meters ie aleve | (caren 27
Bananas.... .. 31 31 32 BL Peaches.. .. : 29 30 | 30 29
Barley see sae Shai (ekeaete QO) |hickecu|) interes MRC Arsh fee sta ele 28 29! 2y 28
1eXet oe hoe eae ees IG eeoee By ES eigos Bessel EUS ears ele aha srarcks 29 30 | 30 25
Beets! s .c.i5.:: MEIN Seats face ake 25 ums =e se & 30 3t 31 29
(CEH 0 ORS es So Soe al (ace ean see |......|15-27 || Potatoes:
Cantaloupes...... 32 BP a leer |30-31 nis bere sees 30 30 380 | B}
Cauliflower.....:.|...... eo pees] totere nad bey | Sweet ..... 31 31 3 31
Celerynn 65:5 ya | eaten Weak ee seme PAS |||, Wiebe Cheese 30 31 31 29
Cucumbers....... 31 31 31 32°|| Radishes'.....0.5 ae Wek aa | (ease 25
Cyama nies: or |, Shrubs, roses, or | |
Squash .... ..... 51 BL 31 30 | trees... ........--|26-80 |28-82)) 5. «2.1 130-26
Flowers*....... ae 3 31 SS eee SO) eS DLN CIA le octets tall eee beg teen 21
GTB DESI 4 dessin eens 31 3 30 | 28 ||} Strawberries. .. 28 28 28 | 30
Grape fruit........ 30 31 31 28 || Tangerines...... 31 3 31 28
Lemons 52502 22-5 30 | 31 31 28 || Tomatoes.... .. 31 31 31 31
IDET ae ocosbn oe oes leee me et les, bare 12-28 || Turnips........... ac Sy leerine 26
Mandarins....... 31 BL 3! |) 28 Watermelons..... 28-31
Oats EAS, ta, S18 oe foe Weems aoe || Wheat ..... Be Caeser SHEE PSHE owe oe
Oksrar wes oces fo Al kee eoelctal i eee: | .....| 81 // Walnuts,English/ 30 31 31 28
i | ‘ eo, |) {18
Olivesis. 22. 30) 31 31 |} god |
* Depends on variety. +Injured at 2° higher if continued four to six hours. { Ripe.
§Green.
GARDEN CALENDAR.
Upper NSections.—Virginia, North Carolina, North Georgia, North
Alabama, Tennessee.
Middle Sections.—Lower South Carolina, South Georgia, Middle and
South Alabama, Mississippi.
Southern Sections.—Southern Louisiana and Florida.
JANUARY—Upper Sections.—Prepare hot-beds and cold frames and sow
seeds of Cauliflower, Cabbage, Beets, Lettuce, Onions, Radishes.
Prepare land for Potatoes.
Middle Sections.—Land made ready for English Peas and Irish
Potatoes; later in the month sow Peas in open ground, also Rad-
ishes. j
Southern Sections.—Sow Carrots, Beets, Leeks, Mustard, early
Radishes, and Turnips. Sow in a frame Cabbage, Broccoli, Cauli-
flower, Endive, Kohl-rabi, Lettuce, Celery, Parsley, and Cress.
In the hot-bed sow Eggplants, Pepper, and Tomatoes for early
652 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
transplanting. Sow Cucumber seeds in pots for forcing, transplant
into hot-beds after the appearance of the third leaf. Plant Peas
of the marrow fat and black-eyed varieties. Set out Cabbage plants
sown in November. Onions should be transplanted early in this
month, so that the bulbs will form soon.
Fresruary—Upper Sections —Sow in hot-beds Cabbage, Cauliflower,
Beets, Lettuce, Onions, Radishes, Eggplants, Pepper, and Toma-
toes. Sow in open ground the latter part of the month Beets, Car-
rots, Celery, Kale, Parsley, Radishes. Set out Onion sets, Horse
Radish, hardy Lettuce plants.
Middle Sections.—The early planting of Potatoes may now be ac-
complished. Sow early English Peas. The seeds mentioned in
January for the Southern sections may be sown at this time for
the Middle section.
Southern Sections.—Sow Beets, Carrots, Cabbage, Cauliflower,
Leeks, Lettuce, Mustard, Parsnips, Kohl-rabi, the early varieties of
Turnips and Radishes. Transplant Cabbage, Cauliflower. Divide
Shallots and set out. Plant all varieties of Peas. Sow Aspa-
ragus seeds or plant the roots. Give plenty of air during the fair
days to the hot-beds to prevent the plants from becoming too ten-
der before transplanting. Towards the close of the month, if the
weather will permit, early Corn can be planted and bush Beans.
Melons and Squashes will do well if planted this month and pro-
tected by some covering against the cool nights.
Marcu—l pper Sections.—All kinds of hardy seeds may now be placed
in the ground, such as Cauliflower, early Cabbage, Celery, Aspara-
gus, Carrots, Leeks, Lettuce, Parsley, Parsnips, Onions, Peas,
and Salsify. Sow under glass Eggplants, Pepper, and Tomatoes.
Plant Irish Potatoes, Onion sets, Asparagus roots, and set out
Cauliflower, Cabbage, and Lettuce plants from the hot-beds, after
hardening. Prepare the land for early planting of Melons and
Squashes.
Middle Sections.—Al11 kinds of hardy seeds may be sown. Cauli-
flower and Cabbage plants should be transplanted. Shallots divided
and set out. Sow Celery for seasoning, and also Parsley and Cress,
Kohl-rabi and Turnips. Plant all varieties of Peas, and sow
Asparagus or plant the roots, if not placed in the ground previously.
As soon as the weather is favorable plant bush Beans, Cucumbers,
Squash, and Melons, but protect the tender plants as they come up
by the use of bell glasses or small boxes covered with glass. Near
the close of the month plant Sweet or Sugar Corn, and also early
Corn for the market.
Southern Sections.—This is the month for sowing bush and pole
Beans, and, towards the end of the month, plant Lima Beans;
plant, also, Cucumbers, Leeks, Mustard, Lettuce, Celery for cutting,
USEFUL TABLES AND FORMULAE. 653
Parsley, Melons, Okra. Early varieties of Peas may be still planted.
Set out, the last of the month, Tomatoes, Eggplants, and Peppers;
plant Sweet Corn for continued crop.
Aprit—Upper Sections —Sow in the open ground Cabbage, Tomatoes,
and Lettuce, and plant early Irish Potatoes. Sow the seeds of
Beets, Carrots, Asparagus, Artichokes, Celery, Onions, Parsnips,
Radishes, Parsley, Salsify, Spring Kale. Set out Cabbage plants,
Asparagus roots, and Onion sets. Plant early Corn, bed Sweet
Potatoes, plant Peas, Snap Beans, and, towards the end of the
month, Cantaloupes, Cucumbers, Melons, Squashes, and Strawberry
plants.
Middle Sections.—Plant all varieties of bush and pole Beans, and,
later in the month, Lima Beans also. Plant Cucumbers, Squashes,
Okra, Early Peas; sow Lettuce, Celery for cutting, Radishes,
Mustard, Carrots, Parsley; set cut Eggplants, Tomatoes, and Pep-
pers in the open ground.
Southern Sections.—Sow all kinds of Beans, Carrots, Cucumbers,
Corn, Celery for cutting, Endive, Lettuce, Mustards, Melons, Pars-
ley, Radishes, Squashes. Cauliflower may be sown this month, as
it takes some time to mature, especially the Italian varieties.
May—Upper Sections—Most garden seeds can be sown this month,
such as Carrots, pole and snap Beans, Lima Beans, Corn, Cucum-
bers, Cantaloupes, late Cabbage seeds for setting out for fall use,
Tomatoes, Salsify, Peas, Okra, Squashes, Pumpkins, Sweet Potato,
and Eggplants.
Middle Sections —Such kinds of garden seeds as Melons, Okra,
Lima Beans, and Corn may be safely planted during this month.
Set out Sweet Potatoes.
Southern Sections —With the exception of Okra, the white and
yellow summer Radishes and Endive, very few vegetable seeds
are sown during this month. If the large white Celery is sown
at this time it will be necessary to shade and water during the
dry, warm weather. Special care in cultivation must be taken of
the growing crops. Melons, Cucumbers, Squashes may be planted
when the Onions and Potatoes are taken up.
JuNE—Upper Sections —Cabbage, Eggplants, Peppers, Potatoes, and
Tomato plants may be set out during this month. Sow late Cab-
bage and Cauliflower for winter use Plant late Potatoes for the
winter. Plant Cantaloupes, Watermelons, Cucumbers, Squashes,
Pumpkins, Sweet Corn, and Snap Beans.
Middle Sections.—Plant pole and snap Beans, Sweet Corn, Cucum-
bers for pickling, Cabbage for fall crop; Celery seed also sown now.
Southern Sections.—The growing crops will require all the atten-
tion of the gardener, and very few seeds will be sown during the
654 GARDENING FOR THE SOUTH.
month. Corn may be planted for the late supply of roasting ears;
some varieties of the hardy, prolific Beans and summer Radishes
may be sown at this time; towards the end of the month Tomato
seeds may be put in for the late crop. Plant Sweet Potato Vines.
JuLty—lUpper Sections.—Snap Beans and Sugar Corn may be planted
for succession crops. Set out late Cabbage plants for winter use;
also Celery plants. Sow Ruta Baga; plant Cucumbers for pickling
and table use, and late Potatoes for winter.
Middle Sections —Plant Ruta Bagas, Turnips, Endive, Cauli-
flower, Cabbage, Celery for early crop. Give the vegetables care-
ful attention in cultivation to destroy all weeds and keep the
ground in a loose, open condition for the proper absorption of
moisture from the atmosphere and the rapid development of the
plants.
Southern Sections.—Sow late Tomatoes and plant Corn for a late
crop. Towards the end of the month bush Beans may be planted.
In the middle of the month sow Cabbage seeds for winter use.
Still plant Sweet Potato Vines.
AuGcust—Upper Sections.—Continue planting Snap Beans for table use.
If Cabbage and Celery plants have not been planted, set these out
early in the month and water the Celery regularly, as this is a
dry month. Lettuce for fall heading may be planted now. All
kinds of Turnip seeds may be sown.
Middle Sections.—Set out fall Cabbage; sow Kale, Ruta Baga, and
Turnip seeds; English Peas and Snap Beans for fall use may be
sown during this month; the main crop of Celery must be set out
at this time. ‘Lettuce sown under glass for winter use will be a
valuable crop.
Southern Sections.—Bush Beans, Peas, and late Cabb ge will be
planted during this month; also, Kale and Brussels Sprouts.
During the first of the month sow Cauliflower seeds. Sow White
Strasburg Radish and Yellow Turnips, and near the end of the
month the red varieties of Turnips may be sown. This is the time
for sowing Celery, and some Celery plants may be set out at this
time if they are watered and shaded. Set out Tomato and Shallot
plants for late crops Kohl-rabi and Ruta Baga seeds may be
sown.
SEPTEMBER—U pper Sections.—Sow Onion seed. Put out Onion sets. Sow
winter Radish, Kale, Spinach, Turnips.
Middle Sections.—Sow Kale for winter use; sow Spinach in drills;
plant Onion sets; sow broadcast Turnip seeds for salad, and sow
Radishes for late crop.
Southern Sections.—Most of the seeds mentioned for August can
also be sown during this month, in addition to Parsley, Beets,
USEFUL TABLES AND FORMULAE. 655
Carrots, early varieties of Peas, Lettuce, and Corn Salad. Trans-
plant Celery in the ditches prepared for it, and set out Cabbage
and Cauliflower plants. Begin sowing Creole Onions after the
middle of the month.
OcToBER—Upper Sections—Sow Kale, Mustard, Turnips for salad,
Spinach, and Lettuce. Put out Onion sets.
Middle Sections—Sow Kale and winter Spinach. Transplant
Celery to the trenches prepared for it; plant Onion sets and Shal-
lots. Plant all kinds of Radishes, Carrots, Salsify, Beets, Parsley,
Endive, Kohl-rabi; Corn Salad and Turnips may. be sown this
month. Sow Cabbage and Cauliflower in frames.
Southern Sections.—Towards the end of the month the Marrow
Fat and Black-Eyed Peas and -English Windsor Beans may be
planted. Sow Cabbage, Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, Carrots,
Beets, Parsley, Parsnips, Radishes, Spinach, and Lettuce. Near
the end of the month begin earthing up the Celery plants and
water frequently.
NovEMBER—Upper Sections—Sow Lettuce and early varieties of Cab-
bage seeds in cold frames, leaving off the glass to harden the
plants.
Middle Sections.—The first of the month sow Carrots and protect
with litter. Sow Cabbage and Cauliflower in frames.
Southern Sections.—Sow all varieties of winter vegetables. For
spring heading sow late flat Dutch and Drumhead Cabbage; late
varieties of Peas will also do well this month. Prepare hot-beds
for Cucumber seeds.
DECEMBER—Upper Scctions.—Hot-beds and green-houses must be used
for vegetable seeds during this month. Very little can be done in
the open ground.
Middle Sections —The same is true with this portion of the
South. December is generally a severe month for tender plants,
and the hot-beds and green-houses must be depended upon for all
character of sowing.
Southern Sections.—Carrots, early Cabbage, Endive, Lettuce, and
Radishes may be sown during this month in the far Southern sec-
tions. Early Erfurt Cauliflower may be sown, and the Marrow
Fat and late varieties of Peas. Prepare the ground for planting
fruit trees. Prune fruit trees.
FOR THE SOUTH.
GARDENING
656
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Legal Weight of
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ria levees eta es eel eee al lietre der er ra Nie oe | bed 2
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© Dried te =a 24 | 24 el eee 25 | 24 | 25 | 24
Beans, Castor......... 46 | 46 salle lcena laser 46 | 46 | 46 | 46
ce Whites ate s.ss 60 | 60 GON MBO eve tales elles 60 | 60 | 60
IBECtS che ac ranemns cece |ncmes oe Petes HOO alice tl ceseecn teavars 60 | 60 | 60
Blackberries......... ene Weebevell PARE epee eos lenceaee lots 3 ete oloe.a bron 32
Carrots yn teens oi eoee Pe Be || ei Weeextaes| (513/508 Peer | erm ice ae Bre Pave aie
COTTE S yo ae rorcses ane ence ceed ete ead fe etre] (ae ere costal | ora ed leceotahal| loko cote easeceel | eee
(Gro ee fey C5) soe acolo a Renee eoine Besetcd logis! Reina OmncH nee
Cranberries.
Currants sence red aee
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LElvhoaisbe | Drlevs eas Gees oices| locas Oaas lat Pol eee ae Bere eek re a lesser (oem
Potatoes, Irish....... 60 | 60 |. 60 | 60 56 | 60 | 60 | 60 | 60
a weet...... 60 | 50 seaOLE 60 | 55 | 55 | 46 | 55
120} (Chote oper ae ee eee Sic eae feesel Meee | be case riod! (easton sate ON seam eee le cee
QUES aac ents Soe! | era cel eee Re Mein atk ein oa ae loriosllaao: 48
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SEU TUADS oie ete) see terere tere tos cues £7139 esta fora wiles 50 55 | 55 | 55 | 55
USEFUL TABLES AND FORMULAE. 663
Bushel in Each State.*
Minnesota.
Mississippi.
Missouri.
Nebraska.
Nevada.
New Hampshire.
New Jersey.
New York.
North Carolina,
Pennsylvania.
Rhode Island.
South Carolina,
Tennessee,
Vermont.
Virginia.
West Virginia.
Wisconsin.
R. R. Weights.
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at.)
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' S2Sp: | stichigan.
eves PSS RS esas balbetali98 |e cl Bier s<(us acluceefec... eee 277
Duteh case knife:.-.2eme 2796
Dwart J5c note eee 276
Extra early refugee..... 279
Early Mohawk ......... 276
Early Valentine ........ 276
Mnelish! broadmeneasseeae 274
Mrench kidney, 4. saeser 276
Henderson’s bush ...... 279
London horticultural.... 277
Newington wonder ..... 276
Royal kidneys = --)eeeee 276
ons Pod: ai. e. chee 275
Toimia: cre ieee 274, 279
Miazazan ke sehen 274
Pol@: s.0h.6 set ae eee 274
Sl@Vai? 2's as akin eee 274
Snaps <5: ate assesses 274
Types Of «20s 8eeeeeEe 277
Wardwell’s kidney wax. 279
Wie. Good coh aly. ¢ch SOeees 276
White prolific. 217
Marketing -:26 ..eeeneeere 283
Brets..82, 118, 188, 284, 648, 650
Bassano ..c2:6 4-0..eeeeeeoeee Bau
Chionaspis furfuirus ..... 145, 147
Chittenden. Bh. Heke a ese 113382
Chives, c355:% 1002.8 See 322
Culture = ....2.cheeb nee 322
Chrysobothris femorata ...... 117
Chrysophyllum cenito ....... 531
Cichorium endivia, ..... «-..e- 339
CITRON Mas. sins. states ee as eae
GMO" « «7: 3./seneeeeee 555
LYMAN oa cane. o- eee 5D5
Orange i... -0 a eee 555
Ciirullus DULGATIS’ ...eee eee 440
Cutrus GGidG .. 22 eee een 555
Quran 32... eee 549
bigaradia: ..~. +. kee 549
QCCUNGNG oc. wk tee 555
J OPONiCd sac. - oe ee eee 555
linoniwm «.:.. 2. see 553
MeECICH... scaleeee acer 555
MODILIS sac mas tee 549
trifoliata scar 120
Cucumber beetle ......... 125
Curnculio ene eee se 138
Cue WOLM eeasueenes + eee 124
DeHOM Atha kyerersis « ofeeies 108
Grape leatsftolder:. 22. ..- 129
Grapevine miidial sete. -. 127
Grapevine flea beetle.... 130
Eamlequing bese emeeeieae 131
LOU WiOl Mitte teckeriemierersiorcr 150
June beetless ci sie center 132
Leaf-footed plant louse.. 133
MeTOnelOUSCie ater ae 133
IMelOMMWOLM ies csc! ose 134
Nematode root galls..... 153
ONTO ys ae she ateesdcta sane 136
Oyster-shell bark louse.. 143
Peach-tree borer ....134, 135
PQANWEEVIIS to cte ch locas cane 151
Pitims Weevil sects certo 138
Roo feedinieaeccs ace aie 108
San JOsé scales so. sn. 145, 148
SADMSUCKIN eS) erence meters 108
SOUASHe Gb Sa gee. pier 141
Squash vine borer....... 139
NODACCOMWOLM arieuiekiaee : 150
MomatonwOLMe = ecicesit 150
Turnip flea beetle ....... 141
IWCCVIR etierais sieves scdhsiaetea 151
Woolly aphis ....,.,114, 115
674 INDEX.
PAGE
ImSECtiGIMES “sens cic ee sie terete ee 184
Inula helenium ......--csess 449
EPOMOCANDULALES Waa aieisteverc'e ee) ele 401
JamMaeassonrel, seecomecee see 531
JapanyamediWary «eres css 529
Japan persimmon (see Per-
simmon).
Japan plum (see Plum).
Jerusalem artichoke ....... 188
Jenkins: 45s eCusa aa ss Goetesiss 21
Johnson. & Stokes ......... 26
TOOL OS (RAW coe obec oee sone 542
CUNETAGRY Sela ee ehate sore eat 543
WUGU Oe ae ets ate © airas's Ghorekovela cate 543
ISRCUOLONGNG) ecnewe cles eras 543
GANG ca scsis ee are tn cheers eretstore 70
Kale (see Sea Kale).
Kerosene emulsion ......... 124
IMCTOWALCIS setters oe rete 184, 185
RGU TA MIC ATAS) cre resakerslors Sixteen we 555
Knapsack Sprayer =. J2.2% Lee
HKohirabiessescences ote sate 348, 648
Kcethien: oH: Taser see ctctere 258
ASTM .@ WHATS hie oie seanete sate epchohe sae 555
WEN Uh ieee AG mae ee 557
INARA tebe tes oats ee 557
Lachnosternad [uscd ..ccoeeee 132
Lestadia Bidwellt ....cccocss 163
ACEO SGA eke eee 352
Land, amount of (Table).... 647
WaAVieNGEr> sic. .deiwc wer eset 188, 451
avendula Vera ..v...ce ees ss 451
MWAViOTIINS ss «so icc eo atetere sev hers 6 70 200
meabomauwlde sao sees soos ee 62
PEO RIC Src, aah ait ai cialis saeco eres 188, 348
Culture! ee es sect 349
Scotch champion ....... 349
IDshavel Orel CE Wap ononoadocs 349
bargemROuens.iieciste 349
IMamnketimiossucnitenaae scsi 351
Leggett’s powder gun ...... 176
(eENMGIN Seis oescrae 546, 553, 646, 649
Belair: ecto ttecrene ere cette 555
IDLE a are penn ON OnIoOe 555
Genoa, si wenck se cee 555
Ibe hil ey aonmooce oooh 555
Japan Hard yar nee oe eter 34
SUCH y5. Setsistcsras saverere ers teteks 555
Willan Hrancals sects et 555
WGENSVESCULCTULG oles o ale cisiciels cicrs 351
Went ria eae ciate 0 ¢ pistenerele 188, 351
Lepidium sativum ....++++6- » 029
Leptoglossus phyllopus . eines sales
PAGE,
LETTUCE.:..28,° 82, 128, 188,
352, 648, 650
Brown Ditch) -fiasceseeee 353
Boston, market ys see 353
Butter <.:..6 sashes oe seni 352
Cultures. .3 Shh eee 3854
COS hs Sh. aes ee eee 352
Deacon osS3...cnecee eee 353
Harly -cabbaceuersaecereeee 352
Grand) Rapids) 2... 354
TIA NSOMS .ssc wate a cise Oe 354
Henderson’s New York.. 353
Mammoth Salamander... 353
Royal cabbage, .o aececsee 353
White Paris: Cos) sence 353
Marketing: . o.csacceeeee 357
Ligustrum amurense ......... 35
Whim Gs oe eee on crea 48, 54, 112
Lime and salt mixture...... 61
JGIMES: <.).o.00 6 Nelsen 555
Mexican. ).... ccc. see 555
Persian \ oo ines eae 555
TRANS PUL” woke edceotrck eae 555
Tahiti: © .\.ccc eee 555
IDRChOUIGL = Tae HAWKS BS sg aGodace: 67
Thiquorice’. <...2. 22 52sec 451
Lodeman, “ES 'G.f2.e5Jeeeeee 508
london purple Wasser 184
OQUat. . S.08 beats cee eee 529
Lucuma mammos@ .......... 531
Lycopersicum esculentum ..... 4382
Macartney rose ........-- SY ale
Macrocentrus delicatus ...... 120
McGowan nozzle, ......+.-+68 179
Mammee apple ............- 531
MangiferoPindica: 2.cee ec ees 529
MANGOES * o's oc sane 529
AMPLE. \. dc sic wictom lei teeettene 531
IAPTICOL © cists etree eer 531
Common? 40.0.2 see 5381
INO. 12. ici Aaeee ree 531
Margoramia hyalineata ...... 134
IMAMUTECS -<)ecc ele sree 51, 56, 64, 66
Maricold G2... 2 a0 aeleeinstee eine 188
MAR ORAM /c10-. chase vererersters 188, 357
POb sn ictons)rotherartee eee 357
Sweet .:c.c:c ols os closet ereeene 357
Marl! s.v.. ncn coe enteb eee 58
harrubium vulgare .........- 450
Martin, T0gaty «~~. eter 602
Marketing. ...... sadeaea iene nies 99
Mearlett, MIDs vetecccerecosececlotonee tenes 146
Massey, W. B\.. .:00:0010% stele os 2B
Meat scraps ......-+.e0- sce ee aS
Medicinal herbs ....ccccesee Pics
INDEX. 675
PAGE
Melissa officinalis ..........- 445
MBE ON) woes oe ae 126, 134, 188, 357
Ganteloupersen ccs sone 357
Ieee Clea rere iey yor tier iovesete es 440
MeHiNG PiPCTUtG = «sess. 3. 452
(DUC OMUNUR tocte aise o Gaejelskeises ® 452
PUTS OS 8 RO SO Oe 452
MEIUGOCCO NGU/WOG. 2) 06 oe ie eters 531
Melittia satyrini formis...139, 140
IVI GOV erate crackers sieiere Geierea iene 113
AVN ieee este gatinre cctv a aketaieioy as 188, 452
ICIS TES GS cieipica te errant 1413}
MOnWUiG [rUuctigend— .o acwe.u> 164
IMOOnes JaACOD: Sssate dso ole wel 520
BENOTAUSE CU UDG) areas va chal neiane ieee 53
Viglie SMIAKUTOCED aoadacaocec 5s
Viele VENOSG« clori states wie oun 533
NODONICU ME cre ne mee bis a ineroeie 533
HORE OUUCE oie, bee eae ee era Or 533
TDG Ue boke = atahaiskale nie wieselass Geeks 533
PULL ice aC Once rene 533
Var tomentosa ........2.- 533
MGI @ Kar eis isisies ahs Peet he eos 61
Vipul Hntin' 59 93. so, tasted ls reise swe ares 241
VIN GETEES RR Vos tlio s S%p.0e\ oo ejavror cvs, Savona ve 532
lac kimeee tees eit 533
Downing’s ever-bearing. 533
Hick’s ever-bearing .... 534
NGAI ASAS! S.evessvevensenceh le eres 5 533
WUC NTIS 5 OS yep ee ec 533
INGE VOSA assests oe ais eeasiaun ieee 533
RG Cn ci oeare or ye acdah om nciniicavons 533
RUS SWAIN &. Ai Seevaccreraicrarpsvcratc 533
SPUD ESE Cos a henoutessia evoke 534
WAIN sae cree sioitere ba esaeno ne 533
Minisonee Ts Vix ccen «6 fee l6s Us
Murgantia histrionica ....... iSil
Muniaterol potash®.:2...65.- 71
Musa. Cavendishii ........... 487
OGLCTILUTI, Res etre Nee iene 487
POUURGOUSSUCUm ater =)... fas eee yvee 487
SH DUG QUGUILD Age Boob Dole 487
NEWISHIR OO Miers acacia crore ot 361, 648
Wonimonwerrseriaciienecs. 363
UIUC! scictetesccis amis sielers Bilt
Deadly amanita ........ 366
IMhie Black buNte b5 encoun ae 866
TMK CUD Ee oars conn sk 371
SAL PAVE el cvaxe eiekorerer eee 371
IMITISOR Ohh see Gua pao Chen ae 503
Musik Gloomy yecre-seric monies 140, 357
VIN SAVAURID weve eveveraria roe 132, 188, 375
Blakes evvasa. dt a tacnsraaskstotie 875
Winter esr Sete ae 375
Mytilaspis pomorum ......... 143
PAGE.
Nasturtium armoracia....188, 345
OV /KEULORUS Some asobebosaas 440
IMGOSTUUVUI: ciorate orescicl oe aches oie 377
INVECIVACRIINES § ciarsioleioiciessiciciein ce 535
IBOSEONY Riise sac 536
DOWDtOM cvcieaue 536
PTW SEs, <5 ete ses he eteharetst 536
ING@WiWARIEGY scshciess Sac 536
Stanwichk., as.os ii 3 eee 490
CULIOSUS csc 5,0 os oe Oe 488
IRUMEX 02s sean Rea eee 424
Rumph, ‘S$: Hi ..saceeeeeee 26
Runners: 2. 5 .etck eee 198
Rutabaga: eee 132, 188, 648
Ruta onaveolens — sae 453
Sage: seasicse edi ds Shelanereie teste 188, 453
SalSifyc waved semcsieies 188, 416, 650
Salt <2 3.00. soe einetek bee me;
Salvia, Oficindls waa 453
SCLQTEG® 4.2 so ieee 448
Sannina exiriosa ........ 134, 135
Saperda caudida ........ ans ally
Sapodilla, ...) vis<.hhiecke eee 531
SQUPC4UW 2 50k eels Soe 418
Savory, summer and winter,
188, 418
Savoy cabbage (see Cabbage.)
Schizoneura lanigera..... 114, 205
Schubler’s experiment ...... 646
Science, what it has done for
gardening’, --...46 aoe 13
ScOrzonera: «joss. see 188
SEA KALE)... «.cnceemeeeeeere 418
Gulture: « gouecs oa eee 419
‘Dwarf German greens.. 419
Dwarf green _ curled
SCOtCH) =... S:... ..-ee0ee 178
Verrucosis of sour orange
and ‘Jemonl.< cits. cere 173
VAGCiG FOOW: asics D store reve 274
VAGNG COU ONG eee eee 328
Vitis DinNifende. see 503
@SHivalts . S55 .0e see 503
BOULQUINIONG wane 503
UDOTUS CO nansectene tera toreiene 503
TOCUNGLTOUG, acces 503
Waddell 2 Jee! voto tectieiets 21
INDEX. 683
PAGE.
VVC UT ec icieclorsicieres 542, 648, 650
IB aG Kear stcrsctcicta’ siete rete 543
But berinuiteeanes okeencrteeast. 543
1 paket his olen Baiiolo ceo OT TETO EEG 542
AMA Seeecitele eke eter tvele oe « 543
Wie ere octet eS steterenesene 542
DWV AIH Esco coerce: evel exctewters tiene 543
RV Vel CeIn WAU ero to. ci a onaye evens toiterre 21
AVA O@TRIN ES ose orcccys, sicreyeneieus eve 241, 243
AVVIAIOTCTOSS: cloyetelercveevere cl'ere-ene's 440
WATERMELON ...... 133, 440, 648
Arkansas traveller...... 440
ROSS rosin th sreretovkig ats 6 ilnohth @ 440
MD) iKei OL vs Sepa aticcstershe Se eee 441
Plorida favorite ....:.... 441
NOMS eet oiks oer he i elanacaiezere 441
TOME OMI iecsve ior chs sel brake 441
WMOnMerestane rr stetacis svete 443
IMICEVET SULA A « o4.< 3 -\enoters 441
Pride, Of Georgia. 2... «1 443
HUA LELCSMAK Ci ey cleis cieiele «ere 441
PAGE
Scalliybarkow. airectacive siete 443
SUA lds wees 443
Mar ketinigus sfsleics oe se.e e 443
Watts, Ry Dn perce cece 26, 519
Weeds, most harmful (Table) 656
Weights and measures..... 659
Whale-oil soap solution..... 184
Wi MITE WASH — 2.572. .rectese si cteve. stoners 646
White helleboré 2 3i:o0, <.- 184
IWVIME © soda ns. cbs ais eretekn 516
Wood) ASHES «cise ecc sc acie cove bie Bi
WORMWOODE sean oc 188, 455
FROMMAIN SAN Ae eee encore 455
VC sWidtotar stare outers fey tones ota wisreie oeeue 38
Zea maize var anylaca....:.. 323
VAL CUCTUMigs econ cri cies cteeiciete 323
Viale CLOIUE COL Carday culate etek cte 8238
Wee OMA) soocodoeecs 323
Wee OCH Soba cc. 323
VAL VOOINGIE ss enn yds oue
A Wonderful Idea for
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For years observant stock owners have known that sick horses have
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A few years ago an eminent veterinary surgeon went to work to verify
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2 How it Works. 2
Suppose you have in your home a copy of THE Stock OwNsErR’s AD-
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B. F. JOHNSON PUBLISHING COMPANY,
RICHMOND, VA.
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