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THE

GEOGRAPHICAL,

NATURAL, AND CIVIL

HISTORY OF CHILL

TEANSLATED FROM THE ORIGINAL ITALIAN OF

THE ABBE DON J. IGNATIUS MOLINA.

TO WHICH ARE ADDED,

NOTES

FROM THE SPANISH AND FRENCH VERSIONS,

AND

TWO APPENDIXES,

BY THE ENGLISH EDITOR;

THE FIRST, AN ACCOUNT OF THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHILOE, FROM THE
DESCRIPCION HISTORIAL OF P. F. PEDRO GONZALEZ DE AGUEROS ;

THE SECOND, AN ACCOUNT OF THE NATIVE TRIBES WHO INHABIT THE

SOUTHERN EXTREMITY OF SOUTH AMERICA, EXTRACTED CHIEFLY

FROM FALKNERb DESCRIPTION OF PATAGONIA.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. I.

PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, AND ORME,

PATERNOSTER-ROW.

1809.

rrinted bj J. D. Dewick.

4t>, Barbican

TRANSLATORS PREFACE.

Important and interesting as has ever been
the History of the Spanish settlements in Ame-
rica, particularly to the inhabitants of the
same continent, that importance and interest is at
the present period greatly increased, by the oc-
currence of events of such magnitude, as will
most probably be attended with the total sever-
ance of those colonies from Europe, and the
establishment of a new empire in the west. Of
these settlements, Chili is in many respects one of
the most important. Blest with a soil fertile
beyond description, a climate mild and salubrious
in the highest degree, productive of every con-
venience and most of the luxuries of life, and
rich in the precious metals, Nature appears to
have been delighted in lavishing its bounties
upon this favoured portion of the globe. In its
minerals, its plants, and its animals, the natu-
ralist will find an interesting and copious field of
research ; and the character of its natives fur-
vol. i. b

VI

nishes a subject no less curious and interesting to
the moralist. The proud and invincible Arau-
canian exhibits some characteristic traits altoge-
ther new in the aborigines of this continent, and
scarcely to be paralleled in any nation of the old.
The long and successful resistance of this brave
people to the arms of Spain,, even in the meridian
of its military glory, is a wonderful instance of
what a nation can perform when animated by a
spirit of liberty, aid determined upon freedom
or death. The Araucanians, it is tru ., *o their
high sense of independence a -.1 unyielding cou-
rage, had tkegjood fortune o£ i a '<:m of
tactics so excellent as even to ex; &e tht admira-
tion of tieir enemies, and to this in a great mea-
sure may be ascribed their successfully opposing,
with far inferior arms, a powerful and disci-
plined foe.

Whether the peculiar character of the Arau-
cauians proceed from the influence of climate
combining with moral causes, or is wholly de^
rived from their institutions aid free form of go-
vernment; whether, with the Chilians in general,
they are of foreign origin, and a distinct race
from the other natives of America, the remains,
as the author supposes, of a great and powerful
people, who had attained a high degree of civi-
lization, and possessed a polished and copious
language; or whether their agricultural know-
ledge, military skill, and the cultivation of their
4

vu

idiom, are owing merely to fortuitous circum-
stances, are points of curious inquiry, and such
as will afford an ample field for conjecture.

The author of the present work, Don Juan
Ignatius Molina, was a native of Chili, distin-
guished for his literary acquirements, and parti-
cularly his knowledge of natural history, large
collections in which he had made during his re-
sidence in that country. On the dissolution of
the celebrated order of the Jesuits, of which he
was a member, he shared the general fate of that
community, in being expelled from the territories
of Spain, and was, at the same time, deprived
not only of his collections in natural history, but
also of his manuscripts. The most important of
the latter, relative to Chili, he had, however,
the good fortune to regain by accident, some
time after his residence in Bologna, in Italy,
whither he had gone on his arrival in Europe.

Furnished with these materials, he applied
himself to writing the history of that country,
which was published at two different periods ;
the first part, comprising the Natural History,
in the year 1787, and the second, containing the
Civil, for reasons mentioned in his Preface, not
until some years after. This work, which was
written in Italian, has obtained a very high re-
putation on the continent of Europe, where it
has been translated into the French, German,
and Spanish languages. The celebrated Abb6

b2

Till

Clavigero, in his History of Mexico, in referring
in a note to that of Chili, mentions it in the
most respectable terms, and calls the author hi*
learned friend.

In rendering this work into English, reference
has been had both to the French and Spanish
versions, which contain some valuable additional
notes. Through the politeness of a gentleman of
his acquaintance, the translator has also been
furnished with an anonymous compendium of
the History of Chili, printed in Bologna, in
1776, from which the supplementary notes to
ihis volume are taken.

In addition to what is said above, the English
Editor has to state, that he has, from documents
in his possession, added a few occasional Notes,
which are distinguished by the letters E. J5J.
He has also subjoined, from Falkner's Descrip-
tion of Patagonia, a further elucidation of the
language of the Auracanos; and two Appendixes,
the first containing an Account of the Archi-
pelago of Chiloe, from the Descripcion Histo-
rial of that Province, by P. F. Pedro Gonzalez
de Agueros, printed at Madrid, in 1791 ; and
the second, an Account of the Native Tribes who
inhabit the Southern Extremity of South Ame-
rica, extracted chiefly from Falkner's work.

PREFACE

TO THE

NATURAL HISTORY OF CHILI.

The attention of Europe is at this time more
than ever directed to America. We are desirous
of obtaining information of its climate, its natu-
ral productions, and its inhabitants ; in short,
every thing that is worthy of notice in that part
of the world is now a subject of interest to the
most enlightened nations.

Chili is acknowledged, by all who have writ-
ten upon America, to be one of its provinces
meriting the most attention. This country is
distinguished, not so much by its extent, as by
the mildness of its climate ; and it may be said
to enjoy all the advantages of the most favoured
countries without their inconveniences.

In my opinion, it may, with propriety, be
compared to Italy ; as this is called the garden
of Europe, that, with iore justice, may be
styled the garden of South America. The
climate of the two countries is nearly the same,

b3

and they are situated under nearly similar pa-
rallels of latitude. They likewise resemble each
other in the circumstance of their being of much
greater extent in length than in breadth, and
that they<are both divided by a chain of moun-
tains. The Cordilleras or the Andes are to Chili*
what the Appesnines are to Italy, the source of
almost all the rivers that grater the country, and
diffuse over it fertility and abundance. This
chain of mountains has as sensible an influence
on the salubrity of the air of Chili, as the Apen-
nines have upon that of Italy ; and so firmly
are the inhabitants convinced of this fact, that,
whenever they attempt to account for any change
in the state of the atmosphere, they attribute it
to the effect of these mountains, which they con-
sider as powerful and infallible agents.

A country so remarkable, both for its natural
productions, and its political state, certainly
merits to be well known ; yet the accounts that
we have of it are rqcrely superficial, and little is
to be found, respecting its natural productions,
in writers upon natural history. Of the lan-
guage and the customs of the inhabitants wt
are equally ignorant, and scarcely any thing is
known of the exertions which the Chilians have
made, even in our days to defend their liberties.

A few well-informed travellers, who have
been in the country, have published some
Taluabic accounts, but too couscise to furnish a.

m

competent idea of it. Father Louis Feuille, a
French Minim friar, has given a scientific de-
scription of the plants that he found upon the
coast, to which he has added an account of se-
veral animals that he noticed there. This is a
work of great merit ; the descriptions are pre-
cise, and perfectly correct ; but as it was pub-
lished by the order and at the expense of the
king, the copies of it have become very scarce,
and are in the possession of but few.

A number of Spanish authors have treated of
this country. The last century produced several,
not to mention those of the present; but few of
their writings, however, have been published,
for reasons which I shall hereafter assign. Of
the latter, the first in point of merit are those of
Don Pedro de Figueroa, and the Abbes Mi-
chael de Olivarez and Philip Vidaurre. The
two former treat of the political history of the
country, from the arrival of the Spaniards to the
present time. That of the Abbe Olivarez merits
particular attention, from the great number of
interesting facts relative to the long wars be-
tween the Spaniatcls and Araucanians, which he
has collected with no less judgment than indus-
try. The work of the Abbe Vidaurre is prin-
cipally employed upon the natural productions
and customs of Chili, and displays much intelli-
gence and acuteness of research.

Besides the histories, or, more properly speak-
b4

Xll

ing, the accounts that have been written of this
country, there are four poems that have for their
subject the Araucanian wars ; also an anonymous
abridgement in Italian of the Geographical and
Natural History of Chili, published in 1776,
which, in some respects, particularly with re-
gard to geography and natural history, fur-
nishes a more complete account of Chili
than we have had. But as that compen-
dium is much too concise, I presume I shall
render an important service to those who feel
an interest in what respects America, by pre-
senting them with this essay, in which I have
dwelt more fully and precisely upon the natural
productions of Chili, as well as upon the most
conspicuous events that have occurred in that
country.

At an early period of life, I began to turn my
attention both to the natural and political history
of Chili, with the view of publishing, at some
future time, the result of my inquiries. Some
untoward circumstances, however, interrupted
my progress, and I had even relinquished the
hope of having it in my power to carry my plan
into effect, when a fortunate accident put me
into possession of the requisite materials, and
enabled me to offer the present work to the pub-
lic ; to which, in a short time, I proposed adding
another essay or compendium of the civil and
political history of the same country.

xm

The method that I have adopted in arranging
this work, has been to divide it into four chap-
ters : The first, after a succinct geographical
account of Chili, which may serve as an intro-
duction, treats of the seasons, winds, meteors,
volcanoes, earthquakes, and state of the climate.
The other three 1 have devoted to a description
of natural objects, proceeding from the simplest
to the most complex, that is, from the mineral to
the vegetable and animal kingdoms ; and, in the
last, have added some conjectures of my own re-
specting the inhabitants of Chili and the Patago-
nians, or pretended giants, whom I consider as
the mountaineers of that country.

I have referred, as far as was in my power, the
various objects noticed to the genera of Linnaeus,
but in some instances where I have not been able
to reduce them to those that are known, I have
invented new, in conformity to his system. That
author's mode of classification I have not, how-
ever, pursued, as it appeared to me incompatible
with the plan of my work. Though I have fol-
lowed the system of that celebrated Swedish na-
turalist, it is not from a conviction of its supe-
riority to that of any other, but because it has
been of late so generally adopted ; for, great ag
is the respect which I feel for that learned writer,
I cannot always approve of his nomenclature,
and should have preferred pursuing the system
of Wallerius and Bo mare in mineralogy, that of
%

XIV

Toui'nefort m botany, and of Briason in Zoology >
as I think them to be more simple and better
known to the world in general.

In describing objects of natural history, I
have avoided the use of technical terms, as being
difficult to be understood by those not conver-
sant with that study ; but for the gratification of
such as are familiar with that science, I have
given, at the bottom of the page, the LinnaDan
characters in Latin, both of the known species,
and of those that are new, which I have dis-
covered*. My descriptions will, for the most
part, be found to be short, and such as merely
furnish the essential character of the species.
The common characteristics of the genus I have
passed over intentionally, and it will he found
that the same brevity prevails throughout the
work, which is written in a plain and unaffected
manner, without bewildering myself with vague
conjectures and hazardous hypotheses, which
would have been deviating altogether from the
limits that I had prescribed to myself.

I have frequently quoted those authors who
have written upon Chili, and have judged this
precaution the more necessary, as, in treating of
a country so remote and so little known, i could

* It he- been thought advisable in this version to make some
variation in this rapect, and, conformably thereto, the techni-
cal descriptions will be found at the end of the volume, ar-
ranged under their respective heads... ..Amer. Trans.

XV

toot expect to be believed on my own unsupported
assertion ; but the passages that I have selected
will evince that I have not exaggerated in my
accounts of the salubrity of the climate, and the
excellence of the soil, and that I might have
been justified in saying still more.

With respect to this work, it is no more than
a compendium, or an abridged history of many
of the natural productions of Chili. The reflect-
ing reader will not look in it for a complete na-
tural history of that country ; such a work would
have required much greater means than I possess,
and such assistance as I have not been able to
procure.

Those acquainted with M. de Pauw's philoso-
phical inquiries respecting the Americans, will
perhaps be surprised to find in my work some
remarks which do not correspond with what
that author has said respecting America in gene-
ral. But whatever I have asserted respecting
Chili is founded upon personal experience and
attentive observation during a residence of many
years in that country; and, in support of what I
have advanced, 1 have cited the authority of se-
veral respectable authors, who were eye-wit-
nesses, and not hear-say relaters, of what they
have written. M. de Pauw, on the contrary,
not only never saw the country that he has under-
taken to characterize, but even appears not to
have been solicitous to consulfthosc authors who

XVI

have written upon it ; for, although he frequently
mentions Frazier and Ulloa, he cites their opi-
nions only as far as they tend to confirm his
theory. Both those authors speak of Chili as
very fertile, but M. de Pauw has not thought
proper to insert those passages, but only observes,
in general terms, that wheat cannot be raised ex-
cept in some of the North American provinces.

Led away by inferences drawn from an ideal
system of his own invention, he has carried his
visionary notions so far that his work partakes
more of the nature of a romance than a philoso-
phical disquisition. It is sufficient for his pur-
pose to find, in the vast extent of America, some
small district or unimportant island labouring
under the disadvantages of an unfavourable cli-
mate or unproductive soil, to attribute these cir-
cumstances as general to all the provinces of that
country. A wretched tribe of the most obscure
savages serves as his model of character for all
the Americans. Such is the logic of M. de
Pauw : It would be an endless task were I to en-
deavour to confute the numerous erroneous opi-
nions that he has advanced respecting America ;
upon that subject he has deduced his conclusions
from the most unfounded premises, and employed
a mode of reasoning that might, with equal pro-
priety, be applied to the prejudice of any other
portion of the globe ; a proceeding that can
be justified neither by reason nor philosophy. In

xvn

short, De Pauw lias made use of as much free-
dom with regard to America as if he had been
writing upon the moon and its inhabitants. But
to appreciate properly the observations of this
author, I shall refer the reader to tjhe opinions of
many learned men who have visited that country,
and have fully refuted his assertions. Among
those who merit particular attention on this sub-
ject, is Count Juan Reynaldes Carli, so well
known by his various literary productions, parti-
cularly his American Letters*, in which, with
much critical and philosophical investigation, he
has comprised whatever may serve to convey a
clear and correct idea of America.

N. B. The reader is informed that the mile
made use of in this work is the geographical
mile of sixty to a degree, the foot the French
foot, and the pound that of Italy, of twelve
ounces.

* Those literati who are desirous of becoming perfectly ac-
quainted with America, will do well to consult this work,
which consists of three volumes..., Sp, Trans,

CONTENTS.

CHAP. I.

Page

ituation, Climate, and Natural Phenomena -

1

SECTION 1— Limits

- 2

2. — Name - -

- 3

3. — Natural Divisions

. 4

4. — Political Divisions - -

8

5.— 01' Rain, &c.

- 14

6. — Winds -

- 19

7. — Meteors -

-"23

8. — -Volcanoes -

- 24

9. — Earthquakes - -

- 26

10. — Salubrity of Climate

- 29

CHAP. II.

Waters, Earths, Stones, Salts, Bitumens, and Metals - 3fj

SECTION 3. —Rivers - - ib.

2.— Lakes - - - 3>

3 — Mineral Waters - - - ib.

4, — Soil - - ... 43

5. — Physical Organization - - 48

6.— Earths - - - 53

7. — Stones - - 59

8.— Salts - - • 66

XX

CONTENTS.

SECTION 9.— Bitumens
10. — P) rites
1 1 . — Se in i- Metals
12. — Metals
13. — Concretions

Page

69
70
71
72
• 97

CHAP. III.

Herbs, Shrubs, and Trees - 100

SECTION l.— Herbs - - -101

2.— Alimentary Herbs or Plants - 105

3. — Herbs used in Dying - - 115

4.— Medicinal Plants - - 120

5. — Grasses - - - 125

6\— Climbing Plants - • - 127

7.— Shrubs - - - 129

8. — Trees - - - 135

CHAP. IV.

Worms, Insects, Reptiles, Fishes, Birds, and Quadrupeds l6"l
SECTION 1.— Molluscas - - ib.

2. — Crustaceous Fishes and Insects - l6Q
3. — Reptiles - - - 178

4. — Fishes - - - 181

5.— Birds - - - - 191

6. — Quadrupeds - 222

A Methodical Table of the various species of Natural

Productions described in this Work - - 281

A Supplement to the Table of the Vegetable Kingdom - 293

Supplementary Notes illustrative «f the History of Chili 295

THE

NATURAL HISTORY

OF

CHILI.

CHAPTER I.

Situation, Climate, and Natural Phenomena,

t^HILI, a country of South America, is situ-
ated upon the South Sea or Pacific Ocean,
between the 24th and 45th degrees of south lati-
tude, and the 304th and 308th degrees of lon-
gitude from the meridian of Ferro.

Its length is estimated at 1260 geographical
miles, but it varies in breadth as the great range
of mountains, called the Cordilleras or the An-
des, approach or recede from the sea; or, to speak
with more precision, as the sea approaches or
retires from those mountains. Between the 24th
and 32d degrees of latitude, the distance of the
sea from the mountains is about 210 miles ; from
the 32d to the 37th it is but 120; and in the
broadest part of Chili, near the Archipelago of

TOL. I. B

Chiloe, it is little less than 300 miles. In calcu-
lating from these various extents, the surface of
Chili may be estimated at 378,000 square miles.

Sect. I. Limits. — Chili is bounded upon the
West by the Pacific Ocean, on the north by Peru,
on the east byTucuman, Cujo, and Patagonia,
and on the south by the land of Magellan. It
is separated from all these countries by the Cor-
dilleras, which form an insurmountable barrier
on the land side, while the sea renders it secure
upon that quarter. The few roads which lead
to Chili from the neighbouring provinces are
impassable, except in summer, and are so narrow
and dangerous that a man on horseback can with
difficulty pass them.*

* There are about eight or nine roads which cross the
Cordilleras of Chili, of which that leading from the province
of Aconcagua to Cujo is the most travelled. This road,
which cannot be passed in less than eight days, is bordered on
one side by the deep beds which the Chile and the Mendoza,
two considerable rivers, have worn there ; on the other side,
bv very lofty and perpendicular mountains. It is so narrow
and incommodious, that, in many places, travellers are obliged
to quit their mules, the only animal that can be employed,
and to proceed on foot ; nor does there a year pass when
gome loaded mules are not precipitated from these roads into
the rivers. These precipices, however, do not follow the
whole course of the road ; for occasionally it passes over very
agreeable and pleasant plains, where travellers halt to refresh
themselves. In these places the Incas, when they conquered
Cusco and the northern provinces of Chili, caused some stone

4

The extent which modern geographers assign
to Chili is much greater than that which the in-
habitants allow it ; the former usually compre-
hend within it, Cujo, Patagonia, and the land
of Magellan. But these countries are not only
separated from it by natural limits, but their cli-
mate and productions differ ; their inhabitants
have countenances totally unlike the Chilians,
and their language and customs have no resem-
blance.*

Sect. II. Name. — The writers upon America
have given various derivations of the name of
Chili, which are either wholly false, or founded
on absurd conjectures. It is certain, however,
that it was known by its present name long before
the arrival of the Spaniards. The inhabitants
derive the name from certain birds of the thrush
kind, that are very common in the countrv, and

houses to be constructed for the accommodation of their
officers: one of which has been ruined, but the others still
remain entire. The Spaniards have built some more, for the
greater convenience of travellers.

* Although the principal mountain of the Cordilleras is the
natural termination of Chili to the east, I comprehend within
its confines not only the western valleys of that mountain, as
necessarily attached to it, but also the eastern ; as, though not
comprised within its natural limits, having been occupied by
Chilian colonies from time immemorial.

whose note has some resemblance to the word
Chili. And it is not improbable, that the first
tribes, who settled there, considered this note as
a good omen, and named the country accord-
ingly.*

Sect. III. Natural Divisions. — Chili natural-
ly divides itself into three parts, the first com-
prehending the islands ; the second, Chili pro-
perly called ; and the third, the Andes, or the
country occupied by that range of mountains.
The islands that belong to Chili are : the three
Coquimbanes, Mugillon, Totoral, and Pajaro.
These islands are desert ; and are said to be six
or eight miles in circumference.

The two islands of Juan Fernandez ; one of
these known by the name of Isola di Terra ( the
shore-island) from its being the nearest to the
continent, is about 42 miles in circumference.
Lord Anson, who remained there some time,
describes it as a terrestial paradise ; it is at pre-

* The colonists who went from the southern part of Chili
to settle the Archipelago of Chiloe, an emigration that took
place some ages prior to the arrival of the Spaniards, called
those islands Chil-hue, which signifies a district or province of
Chili, influenced, undoubtedly, by the desire of preserving
the memory of their original country ; and all the Chilians,
those who have continued free as well as the subjugated, call
their country Chili-mapu, that is, the land of Chili, and its
language Chrli-dugu, the language of Chili.

sent inhabited by the Spaniards. The other,
which bears the name of Masafuera, ( the more
distant) is smaller, and although its appearance
is as beautiful and inviting as that of the Isola di
Terra, it has remained till the present time un-
cultivated and uninhabited.

The island of Carama. This is rather a rock
than an island capable of cultivation. Quirin-
quina, at the entrance of the harbour of Con-
ception, and Talca or Santa Maria, are two
islands of about four miles in length ; and are
the property of two wealthy inhabitants of Con-
ception.

Mocha. This island, which is more than 60
miles in circumference, is handsome and fertile.
It was in the last century inhabited by the Spa-
niards, but is at present deserted.

The Archipelago of Chiloe, with that of the
Chones, which is dependant upon it, compre-
hends eighty-two islands that are inhabited by
some Spaniards and Indians. The largest of
these islands, which has given its name to the
Archipelago, is Chiloe ; it is about 150 miles in
length ; the capital of it is Castro.

All these islands are near the coast, except
those of Juan Fernandez, the first of which is
330, and the second 420 miles distant.*

* In the same sea, but very remote, are situated the little
islands of St. Ambrosio, St. Felix, and that of Pasqua, (or

b3

6

Chili properly called, or that part which ig
situated between the Andes and the sea, is at
least 120 miles in breadth : It is commonly di-
vided into two equal parts, that is, the maritime
country, and the midland country ; the maritime
country is intersected by three chains of moun-
tains, running parallel to the Andes, between
which are numerous valleys watered by delight-
Easter Island) much celebrated for the great number of sta-
tues which the natives have erected in various parts of it,
cither as ornaments, or, what is more probable, as tutelary
divinities. The two first, which are desert, are distant 280
leagues from the coast of Chili,' and are situated in 26 deg.
27 min. south latitude; but that of Pasqfla, which is probably
the same with Davis's land, and is in 27 deg. and 5 min. south
latitude, and about the 26Sth deg. of longitude, is 600 leagues
distant from that coast. This island is but a little more than
five leagues in extent, and its inhabitants, who do not exceed
800, are whiter than most of the Indians, and permit their
beards to grow. The statues that are met with throughout
the island are very numerous, and of various sizes ; some of
them being 27 feet in height, and others not exceeding that
of a man. To the sight and touch they appear like stone ;
but as they are all of a single piece* and there are no quarries
on the island capable of furnishing stones of that size, it is pro-
bable that they are formed of some kind of plaister or cement
that, when dry, assumes the consistency and colour of stone.
The Dutch admiral, Roggewein, who was the first that visited
this island, in the year 1722, says, that these statues were
wrought with much skill. Don Philip Gonsalez, commander
of the ship of war Rosalia, who was there in the year 1770.
and Captain Cook, in March, 1774, both agree with Rogge-
wein as respects the number and <ize of these statues.

ful rivers. The midland country is almost flat;
a few insolated1 hills only are to be seen, that
diversify and render the appearance of it more
pleasing.

The Andes, which are considered as the lof-
tiest mountains in the world, cross the whole
continent of America, in a direction from south
to north ; for I consider the mountains in North
America, as only a continuation of the Cordil-
leras. The part that appertains to Chili may be
120 miles in breadth ; it consists of a great num-
ber of mountains, all of them of a prodigious
height, which appear to be chained to each other;
and where nature displays all the beauties and
all the horrors of the most picturesque situations.
Although it abounds with frightful precipices,
many agreeable valleys and fertile pastures are
to be found there ; and the rivers that derive
their sources from the mountains,* often ex-

• The highest mountains of the Cordilleras of Chili are
the Manflos, in 28 deg. 45 min. the Tttpungato, in 33. 24. the
Descabezado, in 35 deg. the Blanquillo, in 35. 4. the Longavi,
in 55. 30. the Chilian, in 36. and the Corcobado, in 43. 1 had
no opportunity, while in the country, to measure the height
of these mountains, which naturalists assert are more than
20,000 feet above the level of the sea. Barton asserts, that
the highest mountains of the earth are to be found under the
equator; but having seen and particularly noticed both those
of Peru and of Chili, I doubt much the correctness of this
axiom, and am more inclined to adopt the opinion of M. Ber-
tram!, who, in his Memoirs upon the Structure of the Eartji,

B.4

hibit the most pleasing as well as the most terri-
fying features. That portion of the Cordilleras
which is situated between the 24th and 33d
degrees of latitude, is wholly desert ; but the
remainder, as far as the 45th degree, is inha-
bited by some colonies of Chilians, who are cal-
led Chiquillanes, Pehuenches, Puelches, and
Huiiliches, but are more generally known by the
name of Patagonians.

Sect. IV. Political Divisions. — The political
divisions of Chili consist of the part occupied
by the Spaniards, and that which is inhabited by
the Indians. The Spanish part is situated be-
tween the 24th and 37th degrees of south latitude,,
and is divided into thirteen provinces, to wit :
Copiapo, Coquimbo, Quillota, Aconcagua,
Melipilla, and St. Jago, (which contains the
capital city of the country of the same namej
Rancagua, Calchagua, Maiile, Ytata, Chilian,
Puchacay, and Huilquilemu.* The division of

says, " It is not true that the highest mountains are found
under the equator, since the Andes increase in height in pro-
portion assthey recede from it." The Cordilleras are lower at
Copiapo, notwithstanding it is nearer the tropic, than in the
other parts of Chili.

* I have thought proper in this place to give a short account
of the situation and extent of all these provinces, with their
capitals, ports, and principal rivers. I should also have given

these provinces is very irregular, and imperfectly
designated : there are some of them which ex-

a statement of their population, but was not able to obtain
an estimate which satisfied me.

Copiapo — extending from the Andes to the sea, is 100
leagues in length, and 70 in breadth. Its capital — Copiapo,
situate in 26 deg. 50 min. south latitude. Ports — Copiapo
and Guasco. Rivers— the Salado, Copiapo, Totoral, Que.
brada, Guasco, and Chollay.

Coquimbo — extending from the Andes to the sea ; in length
45 leagues; in breadth 70. Its capital — Coquimbo, in 29
deg. 54 min. Ports — Coquimbo and Tongoy. Rivers — Co-
quimbo, Tongoy, Limari, and Chuapa.

Quillota — situated on the sea-coast, in length 25 leagues,
in breadth 21. Its capital— Quillota, in 32 deg. 56 min.
Ports — Papudo, Herradura, Quintero, and Valparaiso, in 33
deg. 2 uiin. Rivers — Longotoma, Ligua, Chile, and Limache.

Aconcagua — in the vicinity of the Andes ; 25 leagues in
length, and of equal width. Its capital — Aconcagua, in 32
deg. 48 min. Rivers — Longotoma, Ligua, and Chile.

Melipilla — on the sea-coast ; 11 leagues in length, in breadth

23. Its capital — Melipilla, in 33 deg. 32 min. Port St.

Antonio. Rivers — Maypo, Maypoche, and Poangue.

Santiago— near the Andes ; 1 1 leagues in length, in breadth
20. Its capital— Santiago, in 33 deg. 31 min. Rivers Co-
Una, Lampa, Mapoche, and Maypo.

Rancagua — from the Andes to the sea ; in length 13 leagues,
in breadth 40. Its capital — Rancagua, in 34 deg. Rivers—
Maypo, Codegiia, Chocalan, and Cachapoal.

Colchagua — from the Andes to the sea; 15 leagues in
length, and 43 in breadth. Its capital — St. Fernando, in
34 deg. 18 min. Ports— Topocalma and Navidad. Rivers—
Rio-Clarillo, Tingiririca, Chimbarongo, Nilahue, and Teno.

Maule— from the Andes to the sea ; 44 leagues long and

2

10

tend from the sea to the Andes ; others occupy
but the half of that space, and are situated near
the mountains or upon the coast. Their extent
is also very various, some of them being six or
seven times larger than others. These provinces
were formerly inhabited by the Copiapins, Co-
quimbranes, Quillotanes, Map o chin ins, Pro-
maucians, Cures, Cauques, and Penquons. At
present there exist but few remains of any of these
nations.

The Indian country is situated between the
river Bio-bio and the Archipelago of Chiloe, or
the 36th and 41st degrees of latitude. It is in-
habited by three different nations : the Arauca-

48 broad. Its capital — Talca, in 34 deg. 33 min. Port—
Astillero. Rivers — Mataquito, Rioclaro, Lircay, Maule, Pu-
tagan, Achihuenu, Liguay, Longavi, Loncomilla, and Purapel.

Itata— on the sea-coast ; 1 J leagues in length and 23 in
breadth. Its capital — Couleinu, in 36 deg. 2 min. Rivers—
Lonquen and Itata.

Chilian — near the Andes; in length 12 leagues, in breadth
25. Its capital — Chilian, in 36 deg. Rivers — Catillo, Cato,
Kuble, and Chillam.

Puchacay— ou the sea-coast ; 12 leagues long and 25 broad.
Its capital — Gualqai, in 36 deg. 42 min. Rivers— Lirquen,
Andalien, and Bio-bio.

Huilquilemu— near the Andes; 12 leagues long and 25
broad. ' Its capital — Iluilquilemu, in 36 deg. 42 min. Rivers
—Itata, Claro, and Luxa.

The Spaniards likewise possess the port and town of Vafaj-
via with its territory, situated upon the south shore of the river
ft' the same name, in 3£deg. 55 Bin. south latitude.

n

mans, the Clinches, and the Huilliches. The
Araucanians do not, as M. de Pauw pretends, in-
habit the barren rocks of Chili, but, on the con-
trary, the finest plains in the whole country, si-
tuated between the rivers Bio -bio and Valdivia.
Araucauia lies upon the sea-coast, and is calcu-
lated to be 188 miles in length ; it is generally
considered as the most pleasant and fertile part of
Chili ; its breadth, from the sea to the foot of
the Andes, was formerly estimated at 300 miles,
but the Puelches, a nation inhabiting the western
part of the mountains, having joined the Arau-
canians in the last century, it cannot at present
be less than 420 miles in breadth, and the whole
of their territory is calculated to contain 78,120
square miles.

The Araucanians have divided their country
into four principalities, or utlianmapu, to which
they have given the following names : Lavquen-
mapu, or the maritime country; Lelvunmapu,
or the flat country ; Inapiremapu, or the country
at the foot of the Andes ; and Piremapu, or the
country of the Andes. Each principality is di-
vided into five provinces, or ailla-reliue, and each
province into nine commanderies, or reliue. The
maritime principality contains five provinces ;
Arauco, Tucapel, Ilicura, Boroa, and Nagtolten.
The principality of the plain, Eucol, Puren, Re-
pocura, Maquehue, and Mariquina. The prin-
cipality at the foot of the Andes, Marven, Col-

12

hue, Chacaico, Quecheregua, and Guanahue.
The principality of the Andes comprehends all
the valleys situated between the limits heretofore
mentioned. The country of the Cunches extends
along the coast, between the Valdivia and the
Archipelago of Chiloe. Cunches is derived
from the word cunco, which signifies a bunch of
grapes, and is allusive to the great fecundity of
that nation. The Huilliches occupy all the
plains to the east of the Cunches, from whom
they are separated partly by an imaginary line,
and partly by that chain of the Andes which ex-
tends from the Valdivia to the extremity of
Chili. They are called Huilliches, which sig-
nifies southern men, from their country being
the farthest towards the south. Both the Cun-
ches and the Huilliches are warlike nations, and
allies of the Araucanians, to whom they have
rendered important services in their wars with
the Spaniards.

Chili is one of the best countries in America.
The beauty of its sky, the constant mildness of
its climate, and its abundant fertility, render it,
as a place of residence, extremely agreeable ;
and with respect to its natural productions, it
may be said, without exaggeration, not to be in-
ferior to any portion of the globe. The seasons
succeed each other regularly, and are sufficiently
marked, although the transition from cold to
heat is very moderate. The spring in Chili com-

13

weiices, as in all the countries of the southern
hemisphere, the 22d September,, the summer in
December, the autumn in March, and the winter
in June.*

* That part of Chili which may properly be deemed a
Spanish province, is a narrow district, extending along the coast
from the desert of Atacamas to Jthe island of Chiloe, above
900 miles. Its climate is the most delicious of the New
World, and is hardly equalled by that of any region on the
face of the earth. Though bordering on the torrid zone, it
never feels the extremity of heat, being screened on the east
by the Andes, and refreshed from the west by cooling sea-
breezes. The temperature of the air is so mild and equable,
that the Spaniards give it the preference to that of the south-
ern provinces in their native country. The fertility of the soil
corresponds with the benignity of the climate, and is wonder-
fully accommodated to European productions. The most valu-
able of these, corn, wine, and oil, abound in Chili, as if they
had been native to the country. All the fruits imported from
Europe attain to full maturity there. The animals of our
hemisphere not only multiply, but improve in this delightful
region. The horned cattle are of larger size than those of
Spain. Its breed of horses surpasses, both in beauty and iu
spirit, the famous Audalusian race, from which they sprang.
Nor has natuie exhausted her bounty on the surface of the
earth • she has stored its bowels with riches. Valuable mines
of gold, of silver, of copper, and of lead, have been dis-
covered in various parts of it. A country distinguished bv
so many blessings, we may be apt to conclude, would early
become a favourite station of the Spaniards, and must have
been cultivated with peculiar predilection and care. Instead
of this, a great part of it remains unoccupied. In all this
extent of country, there are not above eighty thousand white

14

Sect. V. Of Rain, #c. — From the begin-
ning of spring until autumn, there is throughout
Chili a constant succession of fine weather, par-
ticularly between the 24th and 36th degrees of
latitude ; but in the islands, which for the most
part are covered with wood, the rains are very
frequent even in summer. The rainy season on
the continent usually commences in April, and
continues until the last of August. In the
northern provinces of Coquimbo and Copiapo it
very rarely rains ; in the central ones it usually
rains three or four days in succession, and the
pleasant weather continues fifteen or twenty days.
In the southern the rains are much more fre-
quent, and often continue for nine or ten days
without cessation. These rains are never ac-
companied with storms or hail ; and thunder is
scarcely known in the country, particularly in
places at a distance from the Andes, where, even
in summer, it is seldom ever heard.* Among
those mountains, and near the sea, storms occa-
sionally arise, which, according to the direction

inhabitants, and about three times that number of negroes
and people of a mixed race. The most fertile soil in America
lies uncultivated, and some of its most promising mines remain
unw rought. — Robertson's History of America, vol. iv. chap. J.

* " Lightning is wholly unknown in the province of Chili,
notwithstanding thunder is occasio»ally heard at a great dis-
tance over the Andes."— American Gazetteer.

15

of the wind, pass over, and take their course to
the north or south.

In the maritime provinces snow is never seen.
In those nearer the Andes it falls ahout once in
five years ; sometimes not so often, and the quan-
tity is very trifling; it usually melts while falling,
and it is very uncommon to have it remain on the
ground for a day.

In the Andes, on the contrary, it falls in such
quantities from April to November, that it not
only lies there constantly during that time, but
even renders them wholly impassable during the
greater part of the year.* The highest summits
of these mountains, which are constantly covered
with snow, are distinguishable at a great dis-

* Those who venture to pass the Andes in the depth of
irinter, when overtaken by snow-storms are frequently frozen,
ts happened to the Spaniards under the command of Diego de
Almagro, in the year 1535. This has led some authors to as-
sert confidently, without attending to the difference of places,
that such is the severity of the winter in Chili, that men fre-
quently perish with cold ; yet it has been repeatedly proved,
that in those parts not comprised within the Andes, the
weather is so mild, that it is very uuusual for the mercury in
Reaumur's thermometer to sink to the freezing point, and
none of the rivers or streams are ever frozen. Abbe Gauri
says, in his Treatise upon Natural Philosophy, that the cold is
90 extreme in the plains of Chili, that the inhabitants are com-
pelled to forsake their houses, and, like the wretched inhabit-
ants of the polar regions, to shelter themselves in caverns; a
story which betrays no less ignorance of the real situation of
Chili, than a total disregard of probability.

16

tance by their whiteness, and form a very singu-
lar and pleasing appearanee. Those of the in-
habitants who are not sufficiently wealthy to
have ice-houses, procure snow from the moun-
tains, which they transport upon mules. The
consumption of this article is very considerable,
as a general use is made of it in summer to cool
their liquors. The maritime countries, being at
a distance from the Andes, do not enjoy this ad-
vantage, but they feel the privation of it less, as
the heat is much more moderate upon the coast
than in the interior. In the midland provinces
is sometimes seen, in the month of August, a
white frost, accompanied by a slight degree of
cold, which is the greatest that is experienced in
those districts. This coldness continues two or
three hours after sun-rise ; from which time the
weather is like that of a fine day in spring.*

* So general is the opinion of the excessive cold in the south-
ern extremity of America, that it is hazardous to contradict
it. I shall, however, venture to suggest some doubts respect-
ing so generally an admitted fact. At the same time that
Commodore Byron compares the temperature of the Straits of
Magellan in summer with the climate of England in midwinter,
he describes the country in the following manner : n Upon
Sandy Point we found a plenty of wood and very good water,
and for four or five miles the shore was exceedingly pleasant.
Over the poiut there is a fine level country, with a soil that,
to all appearance, is extremely rich, for the ground was co-
vered with flowers of various kinds, that perfumed the air with
their fragrance ; and among them were berries almost innu-

17

The dews are abundant throughout Chill, in
the spring, summer, and autumnal nights, and in
a great measure supply the want of rain during
those seasons. Although the atmosphere is then

merable, where the blossoms had been shed ; we observed
that the grass was very good, and that it was intermixed with
a great number of peas in blossom. Among this luxuriance
of herbage we saw many hundreds of birds feeding, which,
from their form, and the uncommon beauty of their plumage,
we called painted geese. We walked more than twelve miles,
and fouud great plenty of tine fresh water." " The place
abounded with geese, teal, snipes, and other birds that were
excellent food." " On each side of Sedger river there are
the finest trees I ever saw." " Some of them are of a great
height, and more than eight feet in diameter, which is pro-
portionably more than eight yards in circumference ; so that
four men, joining hand in hand, could not compass them ;
among others we found the pepper tree, or Winter's bark, in
great plenty. Among these woods, notwithstanding the cold-
ness of the climate, there are innumerable parrots, and other
birds, of the most beautiful plumage." " The country between
Port Famine and Cape Forward, which is distant about four
leagues, is extremely fine ; the soil appears to be very good,
and there are no less than three pretty large rivers, besides
several brooks." " I made another excursion along the shore
to the northward, and found the country for many miles ex-
ceedingly pleasant, the ground being covered with flowers,
which were not inferior to those that are commonly found in
our gardens, either in beauty or fragrance." — Hawkesworth's
Voyages, vol. i. chap. 4.

This description is no doubt correct, and it is conformable
to that given of the country by many other navigators. But
how is it possible that so pleasing and plentiful a vegetation

vot. rc c

18

loaded with humidity, its salubrity is not injured
thereby, for both husbandmen and travellers sleep
m the open air with perfect security.

Fogs are common on the coast, especially in

could be met with amidst such excessive cold, or that parrots,
birds so attached to heat, should voluntarily inhabit a climate
condemned to perpetual winter ? And if the summer is so
cold that, according to this author, it may be compared to
midwinter in England, what idea must we form of the Ma-
gellanic winters. It is certain that Winter's bark is not only
met with in abundance on the northern shores of this strait,
but also from the account of Capt. Cook, in his second voyage,
on the island of Fuego ; yet this tree, which grows so plenti-
fully in the open air, cannot endure the winter of England,
whither it has been carried, unless aided by the artificial
warmth of a hot-house. To .which may be added, that the
sea which surrounds those shores is never frozen, notwith-
standing the great quantities of fresh water that flow into it ;
a fact which all the European navigators who double Cape
Horn in midwinter can testify. In the month of June, 176S,
I was myself upon a voyage in that sen, as far as the Gist
degree of latitude, without meeting with the least indication
of freezing ; and though it snowed very often, the cold was
not severer than that which is usually felt during the winter
ill Bologna. The floating islands of ice which are frequently
met with in those seas, particularly in the summer, are driven
by the southern winds which blow from the antarctic regions.
The French who, in 17^5, formed a settlement upon the
Maluine islands, in 51 deg. 40 mill. lat. affirmed, that the win-
ter which they passed there was by no means severe, and that
the snow was never in such quantities as to cover the soles of
their shoes.* 1 have no doubt of the unpleasant occurrence
which befel Mr. Banks and his companion on the island of

* Sec M- de Nervilk's Letters.
3

19

the autumn ; they continue but a few hours in
the morning1, and as they consist only of watery
particles, are not prejudicial either to the health
of the inhabitants, or to the vegetation.

Slct. VI. Winds. — The north and north-west
winds usually bring rain, and the south and
south-east a clear sky. These serve as infallible
indications to the inhabitants, who are observant
of them, and furnish them with a kind of baro-
meter to determine previously the state of the
weather. The same winds produce directly con-
trary effects in the southern and in the northern
hemispheres. The north and northerly winds,

Fuego ; but a single fact is not sufficient to establish a theory.
The crew of the Spanish ship Conception passed the whole
winter of 176*6* there, without experiencing any thing of a si-
milar nature, which might have been produced by a concur-
rence of various accidental causes. Whenever this part of
the world becomes well peopled, the cold, which is now con.,
sidered as natural to it, will be very sensibly decreased ; on
the lands being cultivated, the air will be rendered as mild and
pleasant as that which is enjoyed by the inhabitants of the
northern hemisphere situated under similar parallels of lati-
tude, it being a fact well ascertained, that a desert country
covered with woods is much more subject to all the inconve-
niences of the atmosphere, than one rilled with inhabitants,
and improved by cultivation.

The account given by Julius Caesar of the climate of France,,
which at that period was covered with wood and uncultivated,
corresponds with that which the writers of our times have
given of the Magellanic countries.

C 2

so

before they arrived at Chili, cross the torrid
zone, and there becoming- loaded with vapours,
bring with them heat and rain. This heat is,
however, very moderate, and it would seem that
these winds, in crossing the Andes, which are
constantly covered with snow, become qualified,
and lose much of their heat and unhealthy pro-
perties. In Tucuman and Cujo, where they are
known by the name of Sonda, they are much
more incommodious and are more suffocating
than even the Siroc in Italy. The southerly
winds coming immediately from the antarctic
pole, are cold and dry. These are usually from
the south-west, and prevail in Chili during the
time that the sun is in the southern hemisphere.
They blow constantly towards the equator, the
atmosphere at that period being highly rarified,
and no adverse current of air opposing itself to
their course. As they disperse the vapours, and
drive them towards the Andes, it rains but sel-
dom during their continuance. The clouds thus
collected upon these mountains, Uniting with
those which come from the north, occasion very
heavy rains, accompanied with thunder, in all the
provinces beyond the Andes, particularly in those
of Tucuman and Cujo, while, at the same time,
the atmosphere of Chili is constantly clear, and
its inhabitants enjoy their finest season. The
contrary takes place in winter, which is the fine
season in these provinces,, and the rainy in Chili,

'

21

The south wind never continues blowing during
the whole day with the same force : as the sun
approaches the meridian it falls very considerably,
and rises again in the afternoon. At noon, when
this wind is scarcely perceptible, a fresh breeze
is felt from the sea, which continues about two
or three hours. The husbandmen give it the
name of the twelve o'clock breeze, or the coun-
tryman's watch, as it serves to regulate them in
determining that hour. This sea-breeze returns
regularly at midnight, and is supposed to be pro-
duced by the tide. It is stronger in autumn and
sometimes accompanied with hail. The east
winds rarely prevail in Chili, their course being
obstructed by the Andes. Hurricanes, so com-
mon in the Antilles, are unknown there ; there
exists, indeed, a solitary example of a hurricane,
which, in 1633, did much injury to the fortress
of Caremalpo, in the southern part of Chili.

The mild temperature which Chili almost al-
ways enjoys, must depend entirely upon the succes-
sion of these winds, as a situation so near the tropic
Would naturally expose it to a more violent de-
gree of heat. In addition to these, the tide, the
abundant dews, and certain winds from the An-
des, which are distinct from the east wind, cool
the air so much in summer that, in the shade, no
one is ever incommoded with perspiration. The
dress of the inhabitants of the sea-coast is the
same in winter as in summer ; and in the interior,

c3

23

where the heat is more perceptible than elsewhere,
Reaumur's thermometer scarcely ever exceeds 25
degrees. The nighty throughout the country,
are generally of a very agreeable temperature.
Notwithstanding the moderate heat of Chili, all
the fruits of warm countries, and even those of
the tropics arrive to groat perfection there,*

* Contiguous to Peru is situated the province of Chili,
which extends in a long, narrow strip upon the coast of the
South Sea. The air is remarkably clear and serene, and for
three quarters of the year this country enjoys an almost constant
temperature, as it rains very little during that period. The
want of rain is amply compensated by the copious dews and
the many streams which, descending from the Amies, fertilize
the plains, and render them productive of every kind of grain,
as well as wine, oil, and all those fruits which its inhabitants,
who are much reduced in their numbers, and not remarkable
for their industry, think proper to cultivate. Were the go-
vernment to show itself a little more favourable to the encou-
ragement of its industry and the increase of its population,
no country in the world could rival it; since, at the same
time, it enjoys a clear sky and a degree of heat which, though
temperate, perfectly matures those tropical fruits that do not
grow spontaneously except in the torrid zone. The plains of
this countrv furnish in abundance whatever is necessary or
c.onducible to the comfort of life; while the mountains contain
the richest treasures, in mines of gold, silver, copper, lead,
iron, and quicksilver. Those that are principally wrought are
the gold mines, and there is scarcely in the whole country a
stream whose sands do not contain this precious metal in
greater or less abundance. But the indolence of the inha-
bitants prevents many of the mines from being wrought, and,
what is a still greater evil, the soil from being cultivated in

S3

which renders it probable, that the warmth of
the soil far exceeds that of the atmosphere.
The countries bordering on the east of Chili do
not enjoy these refreshing winds ; the air there
is suffocating, and as oppressive as in Africa
under the same latitude.

Sect. VII. Jllcteors. — Meteors are very fre-
quent in Chili, especially those called shooting
stars, which are to be seen there almost the whole
year, and balls of fire that usually rise from the
Andes and fall into the sea. The aurora austra-
lis, on the contrary, is very uncommon. That
which was observed in 1G40 was one of the
largest ; it was visible, from the accounts that
have been left us, from the month of February

the manner it deserves. Notwithstanding so few are employed
in cultivation, and those by no means very industrious, a suf-
ficient quantity of wheat for the subsistence of 60,000 per-
sons, is annually sent from Chili to Callao, and the other ports
of Peru, for there are not in the world lands more productive
of every kind of grain. Besides the great quantities of wine
and hemp that are exported every year, the last of which is
cultivated in no other part of the South Sea, those of hides,
tallow, jerked beef, gold and other metals, which constitute
the most valuable cargoes, and are shipped from all the ports,
are much more considerable. The chief occupation of the
inhabitants is the breeding of cattle, which are so plenty, that
an ox maybe bought for a trifling sum; an unequivocal proof
©f the fertility of the couutry, where money is comparatively
of littje value. — History of the European Settlements in
America, vol. i. part 3. chap. 11.

c 4

2i

until April. During tin? century they have ap-
peared at four different times, but I cannot de-
signate their particular period?. This pheno-
MM is more frequently visible in the Archi-
pelago of Chiloe, from the greater elevation of
the pole in that part of the country.

Sect. VIII. Voiam ;?. — That a country pro-
ducing such an abundance of sulphureous,
v and bituminous sabstanc ild be

subject to volcanic eruptions, i* not to be won-

^•d at. The numerous volcanoes in the Cor-
(fallens would, of themselves, furnish a sufficient
proof of the qua^titv ot fhe*e combustible ma-
terials. There are said to be fourteen, which
are in a constant state of eruption, and a still
greater number that discharge smoke only at in-
tervals. These are all situated in that pan of
the Andes appertaining to Chili,, and near!" in
the middle of that range of mountain* : so that
the lava and ashes thrown out by them never ex-
tend beyond their These mountains and
their vicin: found, ou examination, to con-
tain great quantities of sulphur and sal-ammoniac,
marcasite in an entire and decomposed state, cal-
d and crystallized stones,, and various me-
-

The gr <vn in Chili was

that of Peteroa, which happened on the 3d of
D- « 1760, when that volcano formed

itself a new crater, and a neighbouring
tain was rent asunder for many miles in *=rti^4.
The eruption was accompanied by a dreadful ex-
plosion, which was heard throughout the whole
country; fortunately it was not _. = ded by
any verv violent shocks of an earthquake. The
quantity of the lava and ashes wa; i _ eat, that
it filled the neighbouring valleys^ and occasioned
a rise of the waters of the Tingeraca. which con-
tinued for many days. At the same time the
course of the Lootue.. a very considerable river,
was impeded for ten days., by a part of the moun-
tain which fell and fiiled its bed. The water
at length forced itself a passage., overflowed all
tie neighbouring plains, and formed a lakewhich
still remains, in the whole of the country not
included in the An: re are but two volca-

noes., the first 1 at ihe mculh of the river

Rapel is small., and discharges only a little smoke
from tune to time. The sec ?nd is the great vol-
can3 of Villarica, near the lake of the same
name in the country of Arauco. This volcano
may be seen at the distance of 150 miles, and
although it appears to be isolated, it is said to be
connected by its base with the Andes. The sum-
mit of the mountain is covered with snow, and
is in a constant state of eruption. It is fourteen
miles in circumference at its base, which is prin-
cipally covered with pleasant fe: A great
number of rivers derive their sources from it. and

26

its perpetual verdure furnishes a proof that its
eruptions have never been very violent.

Sect. IX. Earthquakes. — The quantity of
inflammable substances with which the soil of
Chili abounds, rendered active by the electric
fluid, may be considered as one of the principal
causes of the earthquake, the only scourge that
afflicts this favoured country. Another, however,
not less capable, in my opinion, of producing
this terrible phenomenon, is the elasticity of the
air contained in the bowels of the earth, in con-
sequence of the water which, insinuating itself
by subterranean passages from the sea, becomes
changed into vapour. This hypothesis-will ex-
plain why the countries to the east of the Andes,
at a distance from the sea, are so little incom-
moded by earthquakes. Two provinces however,
Copiapo and Coquimbo, although near the sea,
and as rich in minerals as the others, have never
suffered from earthquakes ; and while the other
parts of the country have been violently shaken,
these have not experienced the least shock, or
been but slightly agitated. It is a general opi-
nion that the earth in these provinces is inter-
sected by large caverns. The noises heard in
many places, and which appear to indicate the
passage of waters or subterraneous winds, seem
to confirm this opinion, and it is highly probable
that by affording a free vent to the inflamed sub-

27

stances, these caverns may serve to counteract
the progress of those convulsions to which the
neighbouring country is subject.

The inhabitants usually calculate three or four
earthquakes at Chili annually, but they are very
slight, and little attention is paid to them. The
great earthquakes happen but rarely.* The

* Ih a period of 244 years, from the arrival of the Spa-
niards to the year 1782, five great earthquakes have occurred
in Chili. The first, which was iu the year 1520, destroyed
some villages in the southern provinces ; the second, on the
3 3th of May, in the year 1647, ruined many of the houses of
St. Jago ; the third, on the 15th of March, l657, destroyed
a great part of that capital ; the fourth took place on the IStli
of June, 1739, when the sea was driven against the city of
Conceptipn, and overthrew its walls ; and the fifth on the 26th.
of May, 1751, completely destroyed that city, which was
again inundated by the sea, and levelled with the ground all
the fortresses aud villages situated between the 34th and 40th
degrees of latitude. Its course was from south to north, and
it was announced by some slight shocks on the preceding
nights ; more especially by one about a quarter of an hour
before its commencement, accompanied by a ball of fire that
precipitated itself from the Andes into the sea. The great
shocks began about midnight, -and continued four or five
minutes each, but the earth was in a state of almost constant
vibration until day-break. Just before the earthquake the
sky was perfectly clear in every quarter, but immediately after
its commencement it became covered with black clouds, which
poured down a continual rain for the space of eight days,
at the end of which there was a recurrence of slight tremblings
that continued during a month, with short intervals between
each, of fifteen or twenty minutes. It is not supposed that on

28

shocks were probably more violent before the in-
flamir.able materials found outlets by the means of
volcanoes. At present they produce only hori-
zontal or oscillatory motions. From a course of
accurate observations it has been ascertained,
that earthquakes never occur unexpectedly in
this country, but are always announced by a
hollow sound proceeding from a vibration of the
air ; and as the shocks do not succeed each other
rapidly, the inhabitants have sufficient time to
provide for their safety. They have, however,
In order to secure themselves, at all events, built
their cities in a very judicious manner; the streets
are left so broad, that the inhabitants would be
safe in the middle of them, should even the
houses fall upon both sides.

In addition to this, all the houses have spacious
courts and gardens, which would serve as places
of refuge. Those who are wealthy, have usually
in their gardens, several neat w ooden barracks,
where they pass the night whenever they are
threatened with an earthquake. Under these
circumstances, the Chilians live without appre-
hension, and consider themselves in perfect secu-
rity ; especially,. as the earthquakes have never
been hitherto attended with any considerable

this occasion a single person perished in the whole province,
excepting seven invalids, who were drowned in the city of
Conception ; and the loss of lives, if any, was no greater in
the preceding earthquakes.

29

sinking of the earth, or falling of buildings.
This, in my opinion, is owing to subterranean
passages communicating with the volcanoes of
the. Andes, which are so many vent-holes for the
inflamed substances, and serve to counteract their
effects. Were it not for the number of these
volcanoes, Chili would, in all probability, be
rendered uninhabitable.

Some pretend that they can foretel an earth-
quake from certain changes in the atmosphere.
Although this does not appear to me impossible,
I must acknowledge that my own experience has
furnished me with nothing to induce me to cre-
dit it. I was born and educated in Chili, and
while in that country paid great attention to the
state of the air during earthquakes : I have
known them occur both in the rainy and dry sea-
sons, during a storm as well as a calm.

Sect. X. Salubrity of Climate. — The inha-
bitants of Chili, notwithstanding the frequent
occurrence of earthquakes, are very well satis-
fied with their country, and I am convinced
would not readily be induced to quit it for any
other exempt from this calamity.

This preference is not founded solely upon
that natural attachment to country, which is
common to all men, but is derived from some
advantages peculiar to Chili; a soil naturally
fertile, and well adapted to every useful and

so

valuable production,, a mild and almost equable
temperature of climate, and a remarkable salu-
brity, are the blessings enjoyed by this delight-
ful country.* Before the arrival of the Spa-

• If Chili is not populous, it cannot be attributed to the
fault of its climate, which is one of the most salubrious of any
known, the contiguity of the Cordilleras communicating to it
a delightful temperature, which, from its latitude, it could not
be expected to enjoy. Nor does Spain possess a province
more pleasant and agreeable as a place of residence. — Phi-
losophical History of the European Establishments, book viii.
chap. 1.

There are two reasons which have impeded the population
of Chili, and counterbalanced the advantages it has received
from nature: The first, the almost continual wars between the
Spaniards and the Araueanians from its first discovery, which
Lave destroyed an infinite number of people : The second
(and the principal) the commercial restrictions which were im-
posed upon that country, as for a century the Chilians had no
direct communication with Europe, nor were they permitted
to send any of their produce to any other place than Calcao,
from whence it followed, that every species of exportation and
importation was conducted by the merchants of Peru, who of
course reaped all the profit of this trade. This pernicious
system discouraged industry, and had a sensible effect upon
the population ; but of late, since a direct commerce has been
carried on with European ships, which arrive every year in
some of the ports of Chili, that delightful country begins to
increase in numbers, and, in some measure, to raise itself to
that important station which its natural advantages claim. In
the year 1755, in the province of Maule alone, there were
calculated to be 14,000 whites capable of bearing arms, and
the population of the other provinces had increased in a de-
gree proportionate to the extent of their limits. The esti-

31

ni&rds contagious disorders were unknown : the
small pox, which occasionally makes its appear-
ance in the northern provinces, and is known by
the name of the plague, was first introduced by
them.* At such times, the inhabitants of the
neighbouring provinces oblige every person
coming from the infected district to perform a
rigorous quarantine, and by that means have
preserved themselves from the ravages of that
destructive malad}7. Whenever the Indians sus-
pect any one to be attacked with it, which some-
times happens from their intercourse with the
Spaniards, they burn him in his own hut,f by

mates, therefore, made by Dr. Robertson and the Abbe
Raynal, in their histories, are, in this particular, iucorrect,
being founded on accounts furnished during the last century.

* The small pox raged in Peru lefore the Spaniards entered it ;
just when Pizarro was first off the coast, and had landed his
two men. The Inca died of it. Whence did this come?—
Perhaps it had spread from Mexico. — E. Editor.

Her r era, 5. 3. \J.

t In Abyssinia also, whenever a house is supposed to be in-
fected with the small pox, the people set fire to it, and burn
it with all its inhabitants ! — E. E.

The most striking picture of the ravages of this dreadful
malady among savage tribes, is given by Mackenzie.

It spread around with a baneful rapidity which no flight
could escape, and with a fatal effect that nothing could resist.
It destroyed with its pestilential breath whole families and
tribes, and the horrid scene presented to the beholders a com-
bination of the dead, the dying, and such as to avoid the hor-

33

means of fiery arrows. By this method, which
is truly a violent one, they have hitherto pre-
vented its progress, and been exempted from this
disorder.

A physician of the country, Matthias Verdugo,
a monk of the order of St. John, was the first
who, in 1761, introduced inoculation, and since
that period it has been practised with great suc-
cess. Tertian an$ quartan fevers are also un-
known there ; and the inhabitants of the neigh-
bouring provinces who are afflicted with them,

lid fate of their friends around them, prepared to disappoint
the plague of its prey by terminating their own existence.

The habits and lives of these devoted people, which provided
not to-day for the wants of to-morrow, must have heightened
the pains of such an affliction, by leaving them not only without
remedy, but even without alleviation.

To aggravate the picture, if aggravation were possible, may
be added, the putrid carcases which the wolves dragged forth
from the huts, or which were mangled within them by the
dogs, whose hunger was satisfied with the disfigured remains
of their masters. Nor was it uncommon for the father of a
family whom the infection had not readied, to call them
around him, to represent the cruel sufferings and horrid fate
of their relations, from the influence of some evil spirit who
was preparing to extirpate their race, and to invite them to
baffle deatli wilh all its horrors by their own poniards. At
the same time, if their hearts failed them in this necessary
act, he was himself ready to perform the deed of mercy with
his own hand, as the last act of his affection, and instantly to
follow them to the common place of rest and refuge from
human evil. — Mackenzie,

33

are accustomed to come into Chili for the benefit
of their health, where they very soon recover.
A violent fever, accompanied with delirium, is
sometimes prevalent among the country people,
particularly in summer and in autumn. This
complaint, which the Indians cure with certain
herbs, whose properties they4iave learnt by ex-
perience, bears the name of chavo longo, which
signifies the disorder of the head. The venereal
disease is but little known in the Spanish settle-
ments, and still less among the Indians. As the
last have no word in their language expressive of
it, there is every reason to presume that this ma-
lady was not known among them until after the
arrival of the Spaniards. The rickets, a disease
which for three centuries has been a scourge to
Europe, is as yet unknown within the bound-
aries in Chili, and lame or deformed persons are
very rarely to be met with.* To many of the

* The Creoles are generally well shaped, and there are
scarce any of those deformed persons, so common in other
countries, to be seen among them ; besides which, they almost
all possess great flexibility and activity of limbs. — Philosophi-
cal History, book xi. chap. IS.

Nor only the Creoles, who are descended from the Europeans,
but also the aborigines of the country, display equal perfec-
tion of form. Some authors pretend, that the reason why
none who are deformed, or cripples, are t© be found among
these people, is owing to the savage custom which the parents
have of destroying such unfortunate children at their birth ;
but this is a mere picture of the imagination ; at least, among

VOL. I. D

34

maladies, peculiar to hot countries, such as the
Siam fever, the black vomit, and the leprosy, its
inhabitants are likewise equally strangers. No
instance of the hydrophobia has ever occurred,
and M. de la Condamine justly observes, that in
South America the dogs,* cats, and other animals
are never afflicted with madness.

Chili produces none-of those dangerous or ve-
nomous animals which arc so much dreaded in hot
countries; and it has but one species of small
serpent, which is perfectiyharmless, as the French
Academicians ascertained when they went to Peru,
in 1736, to measure a degree of the meridian. f
The lions, which are sometimes met with in the
thickest and least frequented forests, are distin-
guished from the African lion, both by their
being without hair, and their timidity ; there is

the Chilians no trace of so inhuman a practice has ever heen
discovered, as numbers who have lived with them for years
have positively assured me.

* This fact is certain. Does it not follow that this dread-
ful malady is never generated without infection, and therefore
tiiat it is possible to annihilate it? — E. E

■\ This country is not infested by any hind of insect except
the chiguas or pricker, or any poisonous reptile ; and although
in the woods and fields some snakes are to be found, their
bite is by no means dangerous ; nor does any savage or fero-
cious beast excite terror in its plains. — Ulloa's Voyage, part ii.
vol. S*

35

no instance of their ever having attacked a man,
and a person may not only travel, but lie down to
sleep with perfect security, in any part of the
plain, and even in the thickest forests of the
mountains. Neither tigers, wolves, nor many
other ferocious beasts that infest the neighbour-
ing countries, are known there. Probably the
great ridge of the Andes, which is every where
extremely steep, and covered with snow, serves
as a barrier to their passage. The mildness of
the climate may also be unfavourable to them,
as the greater part of these animals are natives
of the hottest countries.

bg

36

CHAP. I

Waters, Earths, Stones, Salts, Bitumens, and
Metals.

Chili is a plane very perceptibly inclined to-
wards the sea, and may be considered as a pro-
longation of the western base of the Andes.
From its situation it naturally receives the waters
produced by the melting of that immense body
of snow that annually falls upon those mountain,
while the provinces to the east are frequently in
want of water. The number of rivers, streams,
and springs, which irrigate the country, is incon-
ceivable. They arc to be found in every part,
even on the tops of some of the maritime moun-
tains.

Sect. I. Rivers. — It is difficult to determine
the number of rivers and streams that have their
sources in the Andes ; the principal, however,
amount to one hundred and twenty-three, fifty-
two of which communicate directly with the sea,
and convey thither the waters of all the others.
Although, from the inconsiderable breadth of
the country, the course of these rivers is short,

37

there are several of them that are navigable at
least half their distance for ships of the line.
Of this number are., the Maule, in the province
of the same name ; the Bio-bio,, which is two
miles in breadth ; the Cauten ; the Tolten ; the
Valdivia, in the country of Arauco ; the Chaivin ;
the Rio-bueno, in the country of the Cunches ;
and the Sinfondo,* which discharges itself into the
Archipelago of Chiloe.

The course of these rivers is extremely rapid
as far as the maritime mountains, where, from
the make of the ground, they flow more slowly.
The beds are very broad, their bottoms generally
stony, and the banks low.

This last circumstance is of great service to
the husbandmen, who avail themselves of it to
let the water into canals, from which, in times
of drought, they water their fields ; by this
means they are never in want of water, even in
the dry season, as the rivers are then always full,
in consequence of the melting of the snow on
the Andes at that period, f

* Probably so called from its depth. — E. E,

•\ The rivers which water and fertilize the whole country-
men the western side of the Andes, from whence they spring,
are very numerous, and discharge themselves into the Pacific
Ocean. The banks, covered with beautiful trees that always
retain their verdure, and the clearness and coolness of so many
crystal streams, render this country the most delightful in the

d3

38

From the latter part of September to Febru-
ary, the water in these rivers is at its greatest
height ; their rise is, however, by no means uni-
form, since some of them are observed to increase-
most in the morning, others at mid-day, and
others towards evening ; a circumstance which
may probably be owing to the greater or less
exposure of their springs to the sun. Notwith-
standing these floods are copious, they never in-
undate the adjacent plains, from the beds of the
Tivers being, as I have already observed, very
broad. Though many of these streams appear
to be shallow, frequent instances have occurred
of persons being drowned who have attempted to
ford them on horseback. The common opinion
that snow-water produces goitres, appears to be
*unfounded, if we may be allowed to form a judg-
ment from that of these rivers, Their waters

world. Its thermal and mineral waters likewise contribute
much to the health of the inhabitants.— Coleli's Dictionary
of South America ; article Chili.

* There is a passage in the Coroneca del Or den de S. Augustin
en el Peru, b v M. F«Antonio de Calancha, which mentions goi-
tres as common among some of the Peruvian mountaineers.
I made no reference to this fact, not supposing that I should
ever want to refer to it ; the book has no other Index than
an absurd one of all the texts of scripture which it quotes ;
and I want leisure, as well as inclination, again to examine a
volume containing more than f)00 large and full folio pages,
with about two lies to every page. — E. E.

39

which are excellent, and constantly drank by the
inhabitants, cannot be considered as anything* but
liquefied snow, yet is this disease wholly unknown
in Chili.

Sect. II. Lakes. — Lakes of salt and fresh
water are common in Chili. The first are situ-
ated in the marshes of the Spanish provinces ;
the most remarkable are the Bucalemu, the
Caguil, and the Bojeruca, which are from 12 to
20 miles in length. Those of fresh water are
contained in the interior provinces, and are the
Ridaguel, the Aculeu, the Taguatagua, the La-
quen, and the Nahuelguapi; the two latter,
situated in the country of the Araucanians, are
the largest. The Laquen, which the Spaniards
call the lake of Villarica, is 72 miles in circum-
ference, and in the centre of it rises a beautiful
little hill in the form of a cone. The Nahuel-
guapi is 80 miles in circumference, and has
likewise in the middle a pleasant island covered
with trees. These lakes are the sources of two
considerable rivers ; the first of the Talton,
which falls into the Pacific Ocean ; the latter of
the Nahuelguapi, which empties itself into the
Patagonian Sea, near the straits of Magellan.
Within the Andes are also many lakes, but they
are of little importance.

Sect. III. Mineral Waters.- — A country like
d 4

40

Chili, abounding in mineral and bituminous sub
stances, must necessarily produce a great number
of mine al springs, the virtues of whose waters
must have become known to the inhabitants.
Gaseous and acidulated waters are common in
all the provinces, particularly in the valleys at
the foot of the Ancles. Some springs are vitriolic
and impregnated with iron, others sulphuric or
muriatic; their temperature is in general that of
the atmosphere ; but there are some that are cold
in summer, a quality probably derived from their
sources being in the vicinity of mines or springs
of salt. But as I have never carefully analyzed
these waters, I am not able to give accurate in-
formation respecting them.

The provinces of Copiapo and Coquimbo are
rich in salt springs. In the former, there is a
river called from its saltness Salado, which, like
the other large rivers, has its source in the An-
des, and falls into the Pacific Ocean. The water
of this river is very clear and extremely salt ; and
its specific gravity is, according to the season of
the year, from fifteen to eighteen degrees.

The salt crystallizes naturally upon the
shores ; it is excellent and fit for use without any
preparation, as it is very pure and not mixed
wiih calcarious earth, or anv heterogeneous salts.
In a valley of the Andes, inhabited by the Pe-
huenches, in 34 dcg. 40 min. latitude, are eleven
springs of very clear and limpid water, which

41

overflows the surface, and becomes crystallized
into a salt as white as snow. This valley is
about fifteen miles in circumference, and is en-
tirely covered, for the depth of six feet, with a
crust of salt, which is collected by the inha-
bitants in large pieces, and used for all domestic
purposes. The surrounding mountains afford no
external indication of mineral salt, but they must
necessarily abound with it, from the great quan-
tities deposited by these springs.

Mineral waters are common in Chili. The
most celebrated are those of the Spanish settle-
ments of Peldehues and Cauquenes. The source
of the former is on the summit of one of the ex-
terior mountains of the Andes, to the north of
St. Jago. It consists of two springs of very
different temperatures, one hot, and the other
cold ; the former is sixty degrees above the
freezing point by Reaumur's thermometer, the
latter four degrees below it. They are about
eighty feet distant, and their waters are united,
by means of canals, so as to form a tepid bath,
which is found very efficacious in many disorders.
The water of the hot spring is oily to the touch,
and foams like soap suds ; it abounds with mi-
neral alkali, which appears to be combined with
an unctuous substance in a state of solution.
It is clear, inodorous, impregnated with a very
little fixed air, and its specific weight is hut
two degrees above that of common distilled

42

water. Its heat is probably owing lo the effer-
vescence of a large body of pyrites in the vicinity
of its source. The water of the cold spring is
iron and vitriolic, and, when mixed with that of
the warm, deposits Glauber's salt and a yellowish
ochre.

The baths of Cauquenes are in one of the
valleys of the Cordilleras, near the source of
Caciapoal, a very considerable river. As the
situation is very pleasant, great numbers of per-
sons resort there during the summer, as well for
amusement as for the recovery of health.

The springs are numerous and of various
qualities and temperatures. Some of them are
cold, others hot; some acidulated, and impreg-
nated in a greater or less degree with iron ;
while others are alkalescent or vitriolic, and
several, like those of Pisa, are merely gaseous.
The principal spring is very warm and sulphuric ;
its margin is covered with a yellow efflorescence
of sulphur, and the water has a strong hepatic
smell ; it contains besides an alkali and a neutral
salt. The surrounding mountains abound with
every kind of mineral, and near the spring are
great numbers of willows, which are covered
with a species of manna, in globules of the size
of grains of gun-powder.

Three mineral springs, adjoining the high
road to Cujo, afford a neutral salt, with a cal-
careous base, of a sharp and bitter taste, and

43

easily soluble ; it is collected in great quantities
upon the borders of these springs where it shoots
into crystals that are usually of a quadrangular
prismatic form. The inhabitants use it for
Glauber's salt, which they believe it to be; but
I am more inclined to think it a species of Ep-
som salt, as it has neither the base nor the form
of the true Glauber, yet, as I have never had an
opportunity of analyzing it critically, I cannot
determine with positiveness. Mineral waters are
in s:reat estimation with the Araucanians, who
consider them as peculiarly beneficial, and as
under the particular care and protection of
MeuUn, one of their benevolent deities, whom
they call Gencovunco, or, Lord of the mineral
waters.

Sect. IV. Soil. — The soil of Chili is wonder-
fully fertile ; its fertility is not, however, equal
throughout the country, but is increased in pro-
portion to its distance from the sea.* The mari-
time are less productive than the middle districts,'
and the latter are inferior in quality of soil to
the valleys of the Andes. In these last, the ve-
getation is more luxuriant and vigorous, and the
animals larger and stronger than in the other

* The plains, the mountains, the valleys, in short, all Chili,
without exception, is an object of wonder; since from its ex-
treme fertility, it would seem as if every particle of earth was
converted into seed. — American Gazetteer ; article Chili.

4*

parts of the country ; but as the people who in-
habit these rich valleys are Nomacles, or herds-
men, and in reality cultivate nothing, it is diffi-
cult to determine with precision the degree of
their fertility. The various salts and other prin-
ciples of fecundity contained in these mountains,
and by means of the air and the rivers distributed
throughout the country, combining with the
natural heat of the soil, may be considered as
the real causes of that inexhaustible fertility
which requires not the aid of manure. The
husbandmen have discovered by experience that
all artificial manures arc superfluous, if not inju-
rious ; they allege in proof the great fertility of
the land in the vicinity of St. Jago, which, not-
withstanding it has never been manured since the
settlement of the Spaniards, a period of two hun-
dred and thirty-nine years, though constantly
cultivated by them, and for an unknown time by
the Indians before them, has lost nothing of its
productive properties.

Another advantage resulting from the richness
of the soil is, that Chili is not infested with those
worms so destructive to grain in the blade, which
are produced or multiplied by the fermentation
and putrefaction of manure.

Tiiose who have written upon Chili are not
agreed as to the product of the soil. Some say-
that it yields from sixty to eighty, and even a

45

hundred fold;* others, that the crop is con-
sidered as poor if it does not exceed a hun-

* The river of Chile, called also the river of Aconcagua,
from its rising in a valley oi that name, is celebrated for the
prodigious quantity of wheat which is every year produced
upon its shores ; from whence, and the vicinity of St. Jago,
is brought all the grain exported from Valparaiso to Callao,
Lima, and other parts of Peru. Such is the quantity, that it
is inconceivable to any one unacquainted with the excellence
of the soil, which usually yields from sixty to eighty for one,
how a country so thinly peopled, whose cultivable lands are
comprised within a. few valleys of not more than ten leagues
square, can furnifh such quantities of grain in addition to what
is wanted for the support of the inhabitants. During the
eight months while we were at Valparaiso, there sailed from
that port alone thirty vessels loaded with wheat, each of which
would average six thousand fanegas, or three thousand mule
loads, a quantity sufficient for the subsistence of sixty thousand
persons for a year. — Frazier's Voyage, vol. i.

Besides the commerce of hides, tallow, and dried beef, the
inlrabitants of Conception carry ou a trade in wheat, with
which they annually load eight or ten ships of four or five hun-
dred tons burthen for Callao, exclusive of the flour and ship
bread for the supply of the French ships that stop at Peru on
their return to France. But all this would be little for this
excellent country, if the earth was properly cultivated, which
is so fertile and easy of tillage, that the inhabitants merely
scratch it over with a plough, or more frequently with the
crooked branch of a tree, used for that purpose, drawn by a
pair of oxen ; and so prolific is the soil, that, for the purpose
of vegetation, the seed scarcely requires a slight covering, and^
will yield a hundred for one. — Ibid.

46

drcd ;• while there are those who assure us that
it often amounts to three hundred for one.f I am
not disposed to question the account of respect-
able writers, several of whom have been eye
witnesses of what they describe : especially, as
instances of fertility occasionally occur that are
truly wonderful. I have myself seen lands that
produced a hundred and twenty, and even a hun-
dred and sixty for one, but these are extraordi-
nary cases, and cannot serve as data for a gene-
ral estimate.

The common crop in the middle districts is

* Another more important source of wealth, although less
appreciated by its possessors, is what arises from the fertility
of the soil, which is truly astonishing. All the European fruits
attain perfection in this favoured climate, and the wines would
be excellent were it not for a bitter taste acquired in conse-
quence of their being kept in jars smeared with a kind of rosin,
and afterwards put into skins for transportation. When the
crop of grain does not exceed an hundred for one, it is consi-
dered as poor and scanty.— Philosophical History, book viii.

It is not a good year when the crop of wheat does not ex-
ceed a hundred for one, and it is the same with all other grain.
•—-Ullods Voyage, vol. iii.

fThe soil is excellent, but differing, in some degree, as it
approaches or recedes from the equator. The valleys of Co-
piapo frequently yield three hundred for one; the plains of
Guasko and Coquimbo, are nearly as productive, and the lands
on the river Chile are so fertile that they have given its name
to the country.— Sanson's (of AbhevilleJ Geography j article
Chili.

47

from sixty to seventy for one, and from forty to
fifty in the maritime. Between the 24th and 34th
degrees of latitude the husbandmen irrigate their
fields- by artificial means, which renders their
crops generally more certain than in the south-
ern provinces, where they depend upon the dews*
although the rivers and streams offer them the
same advantages. The estimate which I have
made, might, however, be increased, were the
grain which is lost during the harvesting to be
taken into account ; as the husbandmen have
adopted a very injurious custom of not reaping
their corn until it begins to shell out, in conse-
quence of which much is wasted and serves as
food for the birds ; and it happens not un fre-
quently, that what is left produces a second crop
without any tillage or farther sowing of the
ground.

The difference in the vegetation of the mari-
time and middle provinces depends upon the
qualities of their respective soils. That upon
the coast resembles the rich grounds of Bologna;
its colour is brown, inclining to red, it is brittle,
clayey, contains a little marie, and is filled with
flint, stones, pyrites, shells, and other marine
substances. In the interior, and in the valleys of
the Andes, the soil is of a blackish colour,
inclining to yellow; it is brittle, and frequently
mingled with gravel and marine substances in a
state of decomposition. This quality of the

48

soil is continued to a considerable depth, as is
discoverable in the ravines and beds of the rivers.

Sect. V. Physical Organization. — The ma-
rine substances that arc met with in every part
of Chili, are incontcstible proofs of its having
been formerly covered by the ocean, which, gra-
dually retiring, has left the narrow strip of land
extending from the shore to the Andes.* Every

* The retrocession of the sea from the coast of Chili is
every year very perceptible, although not the same in every
part. In some places it does ilot exceed two inches, while in
others, especially at the mouths of the rivers, it is more than
half a foot. This circumstance, apart from other more general
causes, is most probably owing to the shoals produced by the
flowing of so many large rivers into the sea ; these consist the
first year only of a light sand, in the second they produce a
little grass, and in the third are entirely clothed with verdure.
To this cause is the conformation of the shores assignable,
which consist in general of a plain two leagues broad between
the sea and the maritime mountains. Upon the western
declivities of these mountains, the vestiges of the ocean are
still very perceptible ; they are excavated in various modes,
and exhibit many singular grottos, containing rooms hung
with shells and beautiful spars, which afford shelter to the
cattle during the heats of summer. On the left bank of the
river Maule, at four hundred paces distance from its mouth,
is an insulated mass of white marble, consisting of a single
piece, seventy-five feet in height, two hundred and twenty-four
in length, and fifty-four in breadth. This immense block,
called from its appearance, the church, is excavated within
like an arch the third part of its height, and has on the outsido

s

49

thing within these limits offers incontestible
proofs, that the land has been for a longtime co-
vered by the ocean ; the three parallel chains of
maritime mountains, the hills that unite them
with the Andes, in fine, all the ramifications of

three doors of a semi-circular form, and proportionate height
and breadth. Through the one on the western front, the
sea continually flows; the two others, which are on the north
and south sides, and placed opposite, serve to admit those who
wish to visit it at the tide of ebb. This natural edifice, constant-
ly washed by the sea, serves as a place of resort for the sea-
wolves, who herd in great numbers in the lower part, and make
the cavity re-echo with their lugubrious cries; while the upper
is occupied by a species of sea-bird, very white, called lilt, in
figure and size resembling a house-pigeou. On the shore
of the province of Rancagua, at a short distance from the
sea, is a mass of stone, excavated in a similar manner, called
by the inhabitants the church of Rosario. Grottos and
caverns of this sort are very numerous in the Andes, and of
great extent. In the mountain* near the source of the river
Longavi, is a cavern of an oval form, and so large that it will
readily admit a man on horseback ; but what renders this
cave particularly remarkable is, that at sunrise, before the
summits of the Andes are tinged by its beams, the rays of
that luminary, penetrating through some aperture, presents to
the eye a wonderful phenomenon. In the same range /of
mountains is, likewise, the celebrated bridge of the Inca, which
is nothing but a large mountain, cut through by the river
Mendoza. This mountain principally consists of gypsum,
and large clusters of beautiful stalactites, formed by the
crystallization of that substance, are suspended from the arch
of the bridge.

VOL. I. E

50

the latter appear tohave been successively formed
by the agency of its waters.

The interior structure of the Andes every
where exhibits a very different origin, and ap-
pears to be coeval with the creation of the world.
This immense mountain, rising abruptly, forms
but a small angle with its base.; its general shape
is that of a pyramid, crowned at intervals with
conical, and, as it were, crystallized elavations.
It is composed of primitive rocks of quartz of an
enormous size and almost uniform configuration,
containing no marine substances, which abound
in the secondar}r mountains. On the top of
Descabezado, a very lofty mountain in the midst
of the principal chain of the Andes, whose
height appears to me not inferior to that of the
celebrated Chimboraso of Quito, various shells,
evidently the production of the sea, oysters,
conchs, periwinkles, &c. are found in a calcined
or petrified state, that were doubtless deposited
there by the waters of the deluge.

The summit of this mountain, whose form
appears to be owing to some volcanic eruption,
is flat, and exhibits a plain of more than six
miles square ; in the middle is a very deep lake,
which, from every appearance, was formerly the
crater of a volcano.

The principal chain of the Andes is situated
between two of less height that are parallel to
it. These lateral chains are about twenty-five

51

or thirty miles distant from the principal, but are
connected with it by transverse ramifications,
apparently of the same age and organization,
although their bases are more extensive and
variegated. From the lateral ridges many other
branches extend outwardly, composed of small
mountains, occasionally running in different
directions.

These external mountains, as well as the
middle and maritime, are of a secondary
formation, and an order essentially different.
Their summits are generally more rounded, and
they consist of horizontal strata of various
substances a:id unequal thickness, which abound
with marine productions, and often exliibit the
impressions of animals and vegetables. I have
observed both in excavations formed bv the
water, and those made by the inhabitants, that
the inferior stratum of these mountains is gene-
rally a kind of whetstone, of a reddish colour
and a sandy grain, sometimes a quartzeous sand,
or a compact dark grey sandstone ; this is
succeeded by layers of clay, marie, various kinds
of marble, schistu*, spar, gypsum, and coal;
beneath the whole are found veins of ore, ochre,
quartz, granite, porphyry, sand, and rocks cf
Various degrees of hardness.

The disposition of the strata varies very consi-
derably in different places, and ia these derange-
ments the laws of gravitation are seldom ob-

e 2

52

served, as what forms the upper stratum in one
mountain, I have discovered to be the inferior in
another. They in general, however, preserve a
degree of regularity in their inclination, which is
from south to north, a little tending towards the
west, corresponding with the relative situation
of the ocean, whose currents are from south to
north.

Notwithstanding these mountains in general
are composed of various strata, there are several
that are uniform ; some are entirely calcareous,
others are of gypsum, of granite, of freestone,, of
quartz, of basaltes, of lava, and other volcanic
substances; while, as Ulloa justly observes,
some appear to consist entirely of shells, scarcely,
if at all, decomposed. But all these homo-
geneous mountains are barren, and produce
only a few languid shrubs, while the stratified
mountains, which are covered with a depth of
cultivable soil, are always clothed with a plen-
tiful and vigorous vegetation.

The exterior of the stratified mountains like-
wise furnishes a proof of their formation by
the ocean. Their bases are almost always
very extensive, heightening progressively and
forming various valleys, whose inflections
are correspondent to the undulation of the
waves. On examining the valleys, their organi-
zation is readily perceived to be the same with
that of the stratified mountains: similar ma-

58

terials, and a like disposition of them, are found
every where, though, in general, more pulver-
ized or reduced to earth.

The variety of fossils with which the earth
abounds, must necessarily add to the value of
this delightful country ; and although at present
the precious metals appear to attract the sole
attention and regard of the inhabitants, there
will doubtless be a time when, stimulated by
science, they will apply themselves to the dis-
covery of various minerals not less worthy of
attention.

Sect. VI. Earths. — If Nature has been pro-
digal of the precious metals to Chili, she has
not been sparing in the variety of its earths.
Under different modifications, I have discovered
both the argillaceous, the calcareous, the sandy,
and the mineral. It contains all the kinds of
clay described by Linnseus and Wallerius, ex-
cepting the flesh-coloured clay, or terra lemma ;
but, in place of this, I have met with five other
kinds that appear to me to be entirely distinct
from those of Linnaeus,

The first of these is the clay of Buccari,
(argilla Bucearina). It is a species of bolar
earth found in the province of St. Jago. It is
very fine and light, of an agreeable smell,
and of a brown colour spotted with yellow
dissolves readily in the mouth, and like all

e 3

54

those kinds of earth., adheres strongly to the
tongue. In many of the convents of the
capital, the monks manufacture from this clay,
jars, bottles, cups, and several other articles of
beautiful ware, which they varnish and paint
very handsomely, on the outside, with the figures
of plants and animals.

These vessels communicate a very pleasant
smell and flavour to the water that isput intothem,
which undoubtedly proceeds from the solution of
some bituminous substance contained in the clay.
But as no appearance of bitumen is perceptible
in the vicinity of the pits from whence it is pro-
cured, its qualities can only be ascertained by
analyzation. Considerable quantities of this ware
are exported to Peru and Spain, where it is
held in great estimation, and known b) the name
of Bucaros. The Peruvians eat the broken
pieces of these vessels as the natives of Indostan
do those of Patna.

The second kind is the clay of Maule (argilla
Maulica). This clay is as white as snow,
smooth and greasy to the touch, ex'remely fine,
and sprinkled with brilliant specks. It is found on
the borders of rivers and brooks in the province of
Maule, in strata which run deep into the ground,
and its surface when seen at a distance has the
appearance of ground covered with snow, and is
so unctuous a .d slippery that it is almost im-
possible to walk upon it without falling. It

55

does not effervesce with acids, and instead of
losing in the fire any portion of its shining
whiteness, it acquires a slight degree of trans-
parency. From its external appearance, when I
first saw this clay, I supposed it a kind of
fuller's earth very common in the country ; but
I afterwards discovered that it was not lamellous,
was easily wrought, and retained the form
that was given it, and, although saponaceous to
the touch, did not foam with water. These cir-
cumstances induce me to believe that this clay
is very analogous to the kaolin of the Chinese,
and that combined with fusible spar, of which
there are great quantities in the same province,
it would furnish an excellent porcelain.

The third species is the subdola (argilla
subdola) so called from the places where it is
found, which are usually marshes, containing
pits very dangerous for animals, especially horses,
who, jf they fall in them, are sure to perish
unless immediate assistance is obtained. This
clay is black, viscous, and composed of coarse
particles of various sizes ; the pits are from
fifteen to twenty feet in circumference, and of an
immense depth. Wallerius and Linnseus de-
scribe a clay, found in Sweden, that has resem-
blance to this, to which they have given the
name of argilla lumesccns, but on investigation it
appears to be very different both in its colour
and properties. The Chilian clay is a little

e4

56

alkalescent, continues in the same state through-
out the year,, and is constantly covered with a
very fine verdure that attracts the animals, who
are frequently mired and perish in it; while
that of Sweden inclines to an acid, swells much
in certain seasons, and is. naturally barren.

The fourth kind is the rovo (argilla rovia)
from which the inhabitants procure an excellent
black ; it is. used in dying wool, and represented
by Feuille and Frazier as superior to the best
European blacks. This clay is of a very fine
grain, of a deep black, a little bituminous, and
very vitriolic. It is found in almost all the
forests, and has the property of communicating
to pieces of wood that are buried in it for a short
time, a sort of black varnish, very shining and
durable. The colour is obtained by boiling the
clay with the leaves of a plant called the pankc
tinctoria, hereafter described.

They grey clay, which is the fifth species,
posseses all the properties requisite for pottery.
It appears to be of a kind suitable for retorts,
crucibles, &c. as the vessels that I have seen of
it are very strong, and capable of resisting the
most violent fire.

Among the calcareous earths is a kind of lime
or gravelly chalk, found in the Cordilleras, in
quarries of many miles in extent, and of a depth
hitherto unexplored. I have given it the name
of volcanic lime (calx vulcanica) as I am con-

57

Tinced it was originally marble reduced to this
state by volcaneos or subterranean fires. Its
surface appear to have been burnt, and the
surrounding mountains afford unequivocal proofs
of an extinguished volcano.

This substance is distinguished from common
lime by several particulars : it is not so caustic
even when burnt; and, when mixed with acids,
effervesces but slightly., and deposits a neutral
salt of a very irregular crystallization. The
only use to which this lime is applied by the in-
habitants is to whitewash their houses. It is
of two kinds, one perfectly white and easily re \
ducible to an impalpable powder, found in the
mountains of Calchagua and Maule; ihe other,
which is of a yellow hue, but becomes paler and
discoloured with age, is brought from the pro-
vince of Chilian.

The metallic earths or chalks, discovered in
Chili, are the mountain green and blue,
native ceruse, lapis caliminaris, brown, yellow,
and red ochres ; of the latter there are two
varieties, one of a pale, and the other of a bright
red like cinnebar ; the last is called Qucnchu, and
is mentioned by commodore Anson as being
found in great quantities in the island of Juan
Fernandez. Some give it the name of native
minium from its appearance, and its weight
differs very little from ihat of red lead ; it is
supposed to have been produced from the calci-

4

58

nation of mines of lead by subterraneous fires.
The veins of both these ochres run deep into the
ground, and their qualify is found to improve in
proportion to their depth.

Few places in Chili are in reality sandy, or so
covered with sand as to be incapable of vegeta-
tion. But the rivers abound with it, owing to
the constant friction of the pebbles with which
their beds are lined, and on their shores all the
various kinds of sand described by naturali ts
may be found. The black sand of Virginia
(arena micacca nigra) first described by Wood-
ward, is common on the sea shore and on the
banks of several rivers ; it is black and very
heavy from the quantity of ferruginous particles
it contains. In the same places is also found
another kind, differing from the former only in
colour, which is a beautiful Prussian blue; for
this reason I have called it the black blue sand
(arena cyanea). Near Talea, the capital of the
province of Maule, is a little hill which fur-
nishes a species of cement sand, known by the
name of Talca sand (arena talcensis). This
sand is finer than that of Puzzoli in Italy, and
appears to be a volcanic production, as its
earthy and ferruginous parts are half calcined.
The inhabitants employ it in their buildings for
those walls which they intend to whiten, as of
itself it forms a very strong cement, to vUiicli
the lime adheres firmlv

59

Sect. VII. Stones.— In Chili, a country
whose mineralogy is so imperfectly known, very
few new species of stones have been discovered,
in either of the four orders into which naturalists
have divided them. In the short excursions
which my occupations allowed me to make among
the mountains, I have noticed, of the argilla-
ceous kind, various sorts of schist us, slate, talc,
asbestos, and mica. Of the latter the membra-
naceous mica of Chili, otherwise called Mug.
covy glass, is found there in its greatest perfec-
tion, both as respects its transparency and the
size of its laminae ; of this substance the country
people manufacture artificial flowers, and, like
the Russians, make use of it for glazing their
houses. The thin plates which are u cd for
windows are by many preferred to glass, from
their being pliable and less fragile, and possess-
ing what appears a peculiar property, of freely
admitting the light and a view of external ob-
jects to those within, while persons without are
prevented from seeing any thing in the house.
It is as white and transparent as the best glass,
and is frequently found in plates of a foot long;
and I am convinced, if a little care was used in
digging it, they might be procured of double
that size. There is a second kind, found in very
large plates, which I have called mica rariegata.
It is spotted w Uh yellow, red, and blue; but as it

60

cannot be applied to the uses of the first, it is of
course held in much less estimation.

Those of the calcareous kind are limestones,
marbles, calcareous spars, and gypsums. Of the
limestones, there are those that are very compact
and of all colours, the shining red, the coarse
white, the blue, and the grey.

The plain marbles, or those of but one colour*
hitherto discovered in Chili, are the white sta-
tuary marble, the black, the green, the yellow,
and the grey. Two mountains, one in the Cor-
dilleras cf Copiapo, and the other in the marshes
of Maule, consist wholly of a marble striped with
bands of various colours, which have a beautiful
appearance. The variegated marbles are the ash-
coloured with veins of white, yellow, and blue ;
the green speckled with black; and the yellow
with irregular spots of green, black, and grey.
This last is found at St. Fernando, the capital
of Calchagua; it is in high estimation,- is easily
wrought, and becomes harder from exposure to
the air. The Chilian marbles are generally of
an excellent quality, and take a fine polish.
Several who have examined the interior Andes,
have informed me that those mountains abound
with marbles of various kinds, and of almost
all colours; but their observations were too
superficial to afford me a correct description.

In the plains near the city of Coquimbo,, at

61

the depth of three or four feet, is found a
white testaceous marble, somewhat granulated,
ft Is filled with shells of the snail kind, more or
less entire, which give it the appearance of shell
work. The quarry is several miles in extent,
and generally about two feet in thickness, but
varying according to the number of strata, which
are from five to eight, frequently interrupted by-
very thin layers of sand. These strata increase
in hardness in proportion to their depth ; the
upper consists wholly of a coarse brittle stone,
which is only proper for lime; but the marble
of the others is very compact, requires but little
labour to dig, and after a short exposure to the
air, obtains a degree of solidity and firmness
sufficient to resist the injuries of the weather.

Spar, a substance common to all metallic
mines, and which often serves as a guide to the
miners to determine the character of the ore,
abounds in Chili, where all the known species have
been discovered, exceptingthe crystal of Iceland.
Of these species the varieties are infinite, and
many of them, if examined attentively, might
be found to be real and distinct species. Co-
loured spar, known by the names of false eme-
rald, topaz, and sapphire, is one of the species
most frequently met with. But the most cu-
rious of all the Chilian spars is one of an hex-
agonal form, and perfectly transparent; it is
found in the gold mine of Quillata, and is

62

crossed in various directions by very fin« golden
filaments, which give it a most beautiful appear-
ance.

Quarries of the common or parallelopipedal
gypsum, the rhomboidal, and the striated are
numerous in Chili. But the inhabitants make lit-
tle use of either, preferring a species of gypsum,
of a beautiful white a little inclining to blue,
which is very brittle and composed of small ir-
regular particles ; it is always found in the vi-
cinity of Volcanoes, in a semi-calcined state,
from whence I have denominated it the volcanic
gypsum (gypsum volcanicum.) The quarries
from whence it is procured are of great extent ;
it is principally employed for plaistering walls,
to which its slight tint of blue gives a very
agreeable appearance; it may be used in its na-
tive state, but the masons generally prepare it by
a slight calcination. The Andes abound with
quarries of fine alabaster, and a species of pel-
lucid selenite, which is used by the inhabitants
of St. Jago instead of glass for the windows of
their churches.

Of the sandstone there are various kinds, the
whetstone, flint, quartz, and rock crystal. The
first contains three varieties, the white, the grey,
and the yellow : the mill or grindstone, and the
freestone, which likewise belong to the same
class, are very common in Chili. The mountains
contain great quantities of quartz, both the

63

opake, the pellucid, and that of different colours,
as well as common flint, and several species of
agate. Of the plain jaspers there are the fine
red, the green, the grey, the white, and the true
lapis lazuli ;* and among the variegated, the
grey spotted with black, the whitish interspersed
with yellow and blue, and the yellow marked
with blue, red, and grey spots. Besides the
pieces of rock crystal found in all parts of the
country, blocks of it are obtained from the Cor-
dilleras of a size sufficient for columns of six or
seven feet in height. They also contain great
quantities of coloured crystals, or spurious pre-
cious stones, resembling in appearance rubies,
jacinths, diamonds, &c. Not many years since,
a real topaz of a very large size was found in
the province of St. Jago, and a beautiful eme-
rald at Coquimbo. From time to time the rivers
wash down with their sands various kinds of
precious stones, particularly rubies and sapphires,

* In the plains of Copiapo, are also great quantities of
loadstone, and of lapis lazuli, which the inhabitants consider
as of no value. These mines are at the distance of fourteen
or fifteen leagues from Copiapo, and in the vicinity of a tract
of country abounding in mines of lead. — Fraziefs Voyage,
vol. i.

The lapis lazuli, according to the opinions of the best in-
formed mineralogists, belongs to the genus of zeolites*— Ft.
Trans.

64

which, though small and of little value, fully
prove that the mountains producing them con-
ta.n those that are of great worth. But the in-
dolence of the inhabitants, which induces them
to neglect many other important branches of com-
merce, has hitherto prevented them from attend-
ing to this, notwithstanding it might become of
the utmost importance.

A little hill at the north-east of Talca, con-
sists almost entirely of amethysts. Some are
f< und enclosed in a grey quartz, which serves
them for a matrix, and others isolated among the
sand. They are more perfect both in colour and
hardness in proportion to their depth, and were
those who search for them to dig deeper, they
would, most probably, discover them in the high-
est state of perfection. A short time before I
left Chili, I saw some that were of a beautiful
violet, and would cut glass repeatedly without
injuring their points. Among them were a few
of as fine a water as the diamond, and perhaps
they may serve as precursors to that most valu-
able gem. They are so abundant, that in some
of the crevices of the rocks, those of a fine pur-
ple may be discovered at almost every step.

The province of Copiapo owes its name, ac-
cording to the Indian tradition, to the great
quantity of turquoises found in its mountains-
Though these scones ought, with propriety, to
be classed among the concretions, as they are only

65

the petrified teeth or bones of animals, coloured
by metallic vapours, I have thought proper to
mention them here, as they are placed by many
among1 the precious stones. The turquoises of
Copiapo are usually of a greenish blue, some,
however, are found of a deep blue, which are
very hard, and known by the name of the tur-
quoises of the old rock.

Mixed stones, of those formed by the combi-
nation of several heterogeneous substances, are
here, as, elsewhere, the most numerous, and form
a considerable portion of the Chilian mountains.
Beside the common stones of this class, various
kinds of porphyry and granite of the first qua-
lity are constantly met with ; and the skirts of
the mountains bordering the high road across
the Andes to Cujo, consist wholly of red, green,
black, and other coloured porphyries. Among
these is oae which deserves particular attention ;
it is yellow, spotted with red and blue, and from
its being found in the neighbourhood of the river
Chili, I have given it the name of saxum
Chiknse.

In the plains near the confluence of the Rio-
claro, a large quarry of brown porphyry with
black spots has been discovered. It is disposed
in strata of two feet broad and four inches thick,
a proportion which hitherto has been found inva-
riable ; and notwithstanding the layers are fre-
quently broken by crevices or some foreign sub*

VOL, i„ F

66

stance, pieces have been procured of more than
eight feet in length. These pieces are so even
and smooth, that they are used by the painters
to grind their colours upon, without any prepa-
ration. It is not easy to account for the arrange-
ment and regular formation of this stone ; the
earth in the environs is composed of sand, clay
or marie, and between the layers only is a
coarse sparry or quartzeous sand to be found.

In the plains, and upon most of the mountains,
are to be seen a great number Of flat circular
stones, of five or six inches in diameter, with a
hole through the middle. These stones which
are either granite or porphyry, have doubtless
received this form by artificial means, and I am
induced to believe that they were the clubs or
maces of the ancient Chilians, and that the holes
were perforated to receive the handles.*

Sect. VIII. Salts. — That part of the Andes
corresponding with the provinces of Copiapo
and Coquimbo, contains several mountains of
fossil salt, dispersed in strata or layers, crystal-
lized in transparent cubes, frequently coloured

* The nations of the South Sea Islands, discovered by Cap-
tain Cook, have among their weapons clubs of a similar form
to what our author supposes these to have been. — Fr. Trans.

Any shape would be belter for the head of a mace than the
flat circle. Is it not more likely that this was a missile wea-
pon, similar to the chuckra of the Hindoos 1-—E. E.

67

with yellow, blue, and red. The surface gene-
rally consists of an argillaceous earth. This salt
is excellent, but it is used only by such as live
in the vicinity ; as those who are at a distance
prefer the sea salt, which is obtained in great
quantities, and of a fine quality upon the coast,
particularly at Bucalemu, Boyefuca, and Vichu-
quen. In the middle districts, however, the salt
from the springs of Pehuenches, which I have
already mentioned in treating of mineral waters,
Is most generally used.

Sal-ammoniac, either incrusted or in a state of
efflorescence, is very common in many parts of
Chili. It is also. found of various colours, in a
fossil state, in the vicinity of volcanoes, of Which
it appears to be a production.

Much of the marly ground in the neighbour-*
hood of the city of Coquimbo is covered with a
crust of some inches of crystallized nitre, with
a base of fixed alkali.*

In other parts of the same province this salt is
found with a calcareous base ; but we must not
consider as nitre all the salts which the inhabit-
ants represent as such, for the natron is likewise
found there, or earthy alkaline salt, combined
with sea salt, and sometimes with the volatile

* Nor is saltpetre less common there, which is frequently
fouiid in the valleys an inch thick upon the surface of the
earth,— firaziefs Voyage, vol. i.

F 3

f

68

alkali, to which they improperly give the name
of nitre.

Besides common alum, and that called the
plumed,* which are found in many parts of Chili,
a semi-crystallized aluminous stone has been
discovered in the Andes. This stone, called by
the inhabitants polcura, is brittle and of a pale
white, of a very fine grain and a vitriolic taste;
its external appearance is like that of white mar-
ble, but it contains no calcareous particles, nor
is it in reality any thing but a clay saturated with
vitriolic acid, analagous to the aluminous stone
of Tolfa. It is useful in dying, and the quar-
ries from whence it is procured comprehend a
space of many leagues among the mountains,
which also afford another stone in some measure
resembling it, but coarser and of much less
value. Its yellow hue, and the quantity of sul-
phur and pyrites it contains, distinguish this last
from the real polcura, which is very pure, and
not combined with any metallic substance.

The four principal kinds of vitriol, the green
or iron^ the blue or copper, the white with a
zinc base, and the mixed, are found in a stalactite
or crystallized state as well as that of efflorescence
in the mines, and even isolated in different earths ;
the metallic substances which produce it being-.

* This name is given to a species of talc, consisting of fila-
ments, otherwise called the asbestos stone. — Dictiouriaire <ie
l'Academie.

69

under different modifications, dispersed through-
out the country.

Sect. IX. Bitumens. — The Andes, heated by
subterraneous fires, produce in many places white
and red naphtha, petroleum, asphaltos, and mi-
neral pitch of two kind?, the common, and
another of a bluish black, which when burnt ex-
hales an ajrreeable odour like amber. This bi-
tumen, which I believe to be condensed naphtha,
I have named bitumen andinum, and it is perhaps
only a variety of the Persian mummy. It is not
uncommon, and is discovered in large quantities
in those places that produce it. Jet is very plen-
tiful in the Araucanian provinces ; and near the
city of Conception, and in various other parts of
Chili, pit-coal is found in great abundance.*

Considerable quantities of ambergrisare thrown
up by the sea upon the Araucanian coast and the
islands of Chiloe. The Indians call it meyene
(theexcrementf of whales) and pretend that when

* The mountains in the neighbourhood of the Puelches, af-
ford mines of sulphur and of salt; and in Talcaguano, Ire*
quin, and even in the city of Conception, several good mines
of coal have been discovered at the depth of one or two feet
from the surface. — Frazier's Poyage, vol. i.

+ The Brazilian Indians believed it to be the food of
the whale, which had been vomited. These opinions tend
strongly to confirm the received theory that it is the ill-digested
food of this animal. — E. E.

f3

70

it is first thrown up it is black, that it next be-
comes brown, and after a long exposure to the sun
acquires a grey colour. Pieces of yellow amber
are occasionally found upon the shores, which
prove that Chili contains also this valuable pro-
duction. In the province of Copiapo, one of
the richest parts of the world in minerals, are
two litcle mountains almost entirely composed of
the most beautiful crystallized sulphur, so pure
that it does not require refining.* And there is
scarce a valley in the Andes, but what contains a
reservoir of this mineral,

Sect. X. Pyrites. — The whole territory of
Chili is sown with pyrites. They are of different
qualities and shapes, and discovered at various
depths, frequently in groupes, but more usually
in veins varying in extent and thickness. They
most generally accompany metals of some kind,
and are found both in veins of ore, in chalk,
clay, and common stone, but rarely in quartz or
in rock crystal.

In the three divisions, under which they may
be 'classed, the iron, the copper, and the arsenic,

* On the high ridge of the Cordilleras, forty leagues south-
east from the harbour of Copiapo, are the best mines of sul-
phur. It is procured, from veins about two feet wide, in a
state so pare as to require no refining.— Fra^iers Voyage,
vol. i.

71

they present themselves with such different mo-
difications, that a particular enumeration and
description of them would require a volume.
The most remarkable species of those that I have
seen, is the auriferous pyrites, generally denomi-
nated the Inca stone. M. Bomare, in his Dic-
tionary of Natural History, observes, that this
stone is very rare, and found only in the tombs of
the ancient Peruvians. This may perhaps be
the case in Peru, but it is otherwise in Chili,
wnere it is found in great quantities upon the
Campana, a high mountain in the province of
Quillota, and is known by the same name. This
pyrites is of a cubical figure, and contains a
mixture of gold and copper mineralized with
sulphur. It emits but a very few sparks with
the steel, a circumstance which distinguishes it
from all other species.

Sect. XI. Semi-metals. — All the known kinds
of semi-metals are met with in Chili, and are
found either in mines by themselves, or combined
with metallic ores, and generally in a state of
mineralization. But the working them is neg-
lected or prohibited, and antimony is the only
one sought for, as it is necessary for refining
the precious metals. This mineral is discovered
under various forms, as, the red antimony com-
bined with arsenic and sulphur, the striated and
the compact, all of which are found in mines of

f 4

72

gold, silver, iron, and lead. One mine alone has
furnished crystallized antimony.

The digging of quicksilver is rigorously pro-
hibited in consequence of its being a royal mono-
poly. It is found in a metallic form, or mineral-
ized with sulphur, under that of cinnabar. The
two richest mines are in the provinces of Coquim-
bo and Copiapo, from whence vast quantities
might be obtained if it were permitted to work
them, the greater part of which would proba-
bly be sold in the country itself, as much is re-
quired for the amalgamation of the precious
metals. The mine of Coquimbo is in one of the
midland mountains. The bed of matrix of the
quicksilver is a species of brownish day, or a
very brittle black stone; in this the quicksilver
is found in great abundance in its natural state,
in horizontal veins, occasionally intersected by
mineralized mercury or cinnabar. Thatof Quil-
lota is situated in a very high mountain near Li-
rnache, and appears to be as rich as the former.
The quicksilver is mineralized with sulphur : its
matrix is a calcareous stoic, which would serve
verv well, as an intermediate substance, to retain
the sulphur, if the mercury were to be separated
from it by a chemical process.

Sect. XII. Metals. — The Chilians set little
value upon lead mines, although they possess
those that are of an excellent quality. No

73

more of this metal is dug than what is wanted in
the foundries for the melting of silver, or is
employed for domestic purposes. Lead is not
only found in all the silver mines, but, in cubes
of various sizes with the galena or black lead,
in mines of pure ore, or intermixed with spar of
different colours. All the lead mines contain
either gold or silver, but in too small a quantity
to excite the attention of the miners. The
mines of tin, although excellent, are equally
neglected with those of lead. This ore is
usually found in sandy mountains, not like
other metals in continued veins, but under the
appearance of black stones, very brittle and
heavy, of an unequal size and irregular shape.
In this state, the tin contains a small portion of
iron, mineralized with a little arsenic. Crystals
of tin, of various colours, are also common
throughout Chili.

M. de Pauw, with a dash of his pen, has
driven out of this country all its iron mines,
sinee he boldly asserts that " Chili does not
contain a single mine of iron." But Frazier,
and other writers who have been in that country,
declare the contrary.*

* " In order the more to depreciate America, Pauw asserts,
that there are but few iron mines in that quarter of the
world. And, what is still more singular, that the iron pro-
cured from them is of very inferior quality to that of the old
continent, so much that it will not auswer even for nails ; and

74

So plentiful is this metal in the country., that,
as I have already observed,, the brooks and rivers
deposit great quantities of sand, replete with
particles of iron upon their shores, the sea also
washes it up at times in great abundance.

The provinces of Coquimbo, Copiapo, Acon-
cagua, and Huilquilemu, are very rich in mines of
iron ; it is found under various appearances, as
a black, a grey compact ore, or crystallized in
bluish cubes. From the essays that have been
made, the iron of these mines is of the very
best quality; but the working of it is prohi-
bited, in order to favour the trade of Spain, from
whence all the iron used in the country is brought.
But during the last war between England and
Spain, when iron was at an exorbitant price, seve-
ral quintals were secretly wrought, which proved
to be of a superior quality. The Araucanian

that, in consequence, it is so dear as to be sold in Peru at the
rate of a crown, and steel at a crown and a half for the
pound weight."

The iron, however, so much decried by this author, who
supposes it to be American, is what is imported from Europe.
But supposing his assertion to be true, for what purpose has
the Spanish government prohibited the working or selling any
iron but that which is brought from Spain?

" In the vicinity of Copiapo, besides the mines of gold,
there are many of iron, copper, tin, and lead, that are not
worked." And in the year 1710, a number of mines of all
kinds of metal, such as gold, silver, iron, lead, copper, and
tin, were discovered at Laropague .— Fra% iefs Voyage, vol. t

4

75

provinces likewise produce excellent iron, and I
have been assured by an intelligent Biscayan smith,
that it was no way inferior to the best in Spain.
In the same country has likewise been discovered
a species of that mineral substance called refrac-
tarias ; and there is scarce a province that does
not contain a mine of load- stone : Frazier speaks
of a mountain in the Andes, called St. Agnes,
which is entirely composed of this substance.

If the Chilians have neglected the working of
mines in general., this cannot be said of those of
gold, silver, and copper, to which great attention
has been paid, from the conquest to the present
time. The richest mines of the latter are found
betwixt the 24th and 36th degrees of latitude ;
the ore obtained from them is of various qualities,
some very fine and some but indifferent. Ulloa,
in speaking of this copper generally, assigns to it
the second place after that of Corinth, which is
properly considered as an artificial metal.* Al-
most all the copper in Chili contains a greater or
less proportion of gold. This was well known to the
French, who, in the beginning of thepresent cen-
tury, carried on a profitable commerce with that

* In the province of Ccquinibo all kinds of metals are so
common, that it would seem as if the earth was entirely com-
posed of mineral. In that province are those mines of copper
which supply the consumption of Chili and Peru, and although
it is considered as the best of any hitherto known, it is dus
very sparingly. — American Gazetteer ; article Chili.

76

country for copper, great quantities of which
they exported, and extracted the gold from it.
The proportions of these metals are very various,
there are some copper ores which contain a tenth,
and others a' third part of gold ; hut in these
cases both substances are found in a metallic
state, without having been mineralized.

The copper ores, containing but little or no
gold, are usually mineralized with arsenic or
sulphur, sometimes with both, and mixed with
iron and silver. They are found under the
forms of vitreous and hepatic ore, of ultra-
marine stcne, and of malachite and white copper
ore. These several ores are rich in metals but,
from the expense of refining them, they are
considered as of no value. The ores that are
wrought are but two kinds, the grey or bell
metal, and the malleable copper. The grey ore,
or bell metal, is usually mineralized with arsenic
and sulphur ; it contains no gold or other metal,
except a small portion of tin.* From this mix-
ture and its grey colour, which it retains even
after having been melted and refined, it may be
considered as a species of native bronze; it
has another characteristic of that factitious
metal in its brittlcness, although its specific gra-

* If the author has given an accurate description of this
metal, it is of a very singular species, and nothing similar to
it has been discovered in the mines of FAirope Fr. Trans.

77

vity, is much greater than that of the metals
composing it, when artificially combined. This
brittleness renders it unfit for any thing but the
casting of cannon, bells, <&c.

Large quantities of this metal are sent to Spain
for the use of foundries, whence M. Bomare
has been led to observe, in his Dictionary of
Natural History, that the copper of Coquimbo
is of little value. The matrix of this ore is a
grey sandy stone, easily broken ; and the relative
proportions of the copper to the tin Yary .consi-
derably.

The malleable copper is found in many of the
other provinces as well as Coquimbo ; it possesses
every quality requisite in that metal, and is
the species from whence the Chilian copper has
principally derived its high reputation. Its ma-
trix is a soft brown and sometimes white stone ;
the ore, which is mineralized with a small portion
of sulphur, in its appearance and ductility resem-
bles native copper, a simple roasting being suffi-
cient to expel the sulphur, arid render it mallea-
ble and fit for use. The miners, however, re-
fine it in the usual manner, as they pretend that
by this means it acquires a brighter colour.
There is a remarkable affinity between this copper
and gold ; those metals are not only always found
combined, but veins of pure gold are frequently
met with in the deepest copper mines. In this
circumstance has originated the error of ma.«y

78

miners, who assert that copper, when it extends
to a certain depth, becomes transmuted into gold.
The veins do not always preserve the same course,
and are frequently divided into small ramifica-
tions ; and there is a still greater diversity in their
gangucs or matrices. A great number of mines
have been opened, but those only are worked
whose ore is so rich as to yield at least one half
its weight in refined copper ; those of a less pro-
duct having been relinquished as too expensive ;
notwithstanding which, between the cities of
Coquimbo and Copiapo, there are now in work
more than a thousand mines, besides those in the
province of Aconcagua.

The most celebrated copper mine in Chili was
the old mine of Payen, but the working of it
has been for many years relinquished, in conse-*
quence of the opposition of the Puelches, who
inhabit that district.* On its first discover

* Mines of copper are very frequent in the vicinity of Co-
quimbo, at three leagues distance to the north-east of that
city. It is also gaid, that mines of iron and of quicksilver
are found there.— Frdzier's Voyage, vol. i.

All the parts of the Cordilleras near St. Jago and Concep-
tion abound in copper mines, and particularly a place called
Payen, some of which were formerly wrought, and pieces of
pure copper of fifty and a hundred quintals weight obtained
from them. — Americcm Gazetteer', article Chili.

Among the mountains of the Cordilleras a great number of
mines of all kinds of metals and minerals are to be met wit'),
particularly in two ridges, distant only twelve leagues from the

79

this mine furnished pepitas, or pieces of pure
copper, from fifty to a hundred weight, which
the writers of those times represent assof a beau-
tiful colour resembling pinchbeck, and contain-
ing in general more than an equal portion of
gold. This metal was so pure and easily sepa-
rated from its matrix, that it required only a
common fire to melt it.

A mine has lately been discovered at Curico,
which is as rich as that of Pay en. The ore
consists of gold and copper in equal proportions,
and the inhabitants have named it natural avan-
turine* from its being filled with brilliant par-

Pampas (or great plains) of Paraguay, and a hundred from
Conception ; in one of which have been discovered mines of
copper so productive that they have yielded pieces of pure
ore of a hundred quintals weight. To one of these spots,
which the Indians call Payen, that is copper, the discoverer,
Don Juan Melendez, gave the name of St. Joseph. I saw at
Conception a piece of ore of forty quintals weight, from which,
when smelted, were cast six held pieces of six pounds caliber.
And nothing is more common than to meet with stones com-
posed partly of pure and partly of impure copper, which has
given rise to the observation, that the soil of this country is crea-
tive; that is, that copper is constantly produced or created in
it. The same mountain contains mines of lapis lazuli, and the
other which is near it, called by the Spaniards Cerro de Santa
Inis, is particularly remarkable for great quantities of load-
stone, of which it appears to be entirely composed. — Fraxiers
Voyage, vol. i.

* A precious stone of a yellowish colour, full of small specks
of gold.

SO

tides that give it a beautiful appearance. This
metal is used by the goldsmiths for rings, brace-
lets, and other ornaments of jewelry.

In the province of Huilquilemu are hills that
furnish a copper ore combined with zinc, or a
real native brass. It is found in pieces of various
sizes, and the matrix is a brittle earthy stone of
a yellow colour, or a dull green. This substance,
which has hitherto been obtained only by arti-
ficial means, probably owes its formation to
subterraneous fires, which sublimating the zinc,
and combining it with the copper, has produced
this extraordinary natural mixture. It is of a
fine yellow colour, and as malleable as the best
artificial brass, and is called Laxa copper, from
the river of that name in the vicinity of the mine.

The method of melting the ore is very simple :
After separating it from the earth and super-
fluous matrix, it is broken into small pieces with
wooden pestles. These pieces are placed between
layers of wood, which are set on fire, and the
heat kept up with a large bellows moved by
water. The furnace is constructed of an ad-
hesive clay ; but the bottom, which is slightly
inclined towards the centre,- is formed of a ce-
ment of plaister and calcined bones. The vault
contains a sufficient number of outlets for the
smoke, and at the top is an aperture that may
be closed or opened at pleasure, which serve* for
the introduction of ore and fuel.

81

At the bottom of the furnace is a hole for the
passage of the liquefied metal, which is conveyed
into a receptacle, and from thence taken and re-
fined in the European manner.

I do not know what quantity of copper is an-
nually obtained from the mines, but from tho ex-
portation it must be very considerable. Five or
six ships sail every year for Spain, each of which
usually carries twenty thousand quintals or up-
wards. Much is also sent to Buenos-Ayres by
land; and the Peruvians, who have an extensive
commerce with the coast, export at least thirty
thousand quintals yearly, which is principally-
employed in their sugar works. Besides which,,
the quantity made use of in the cannon foun-
dries, and for domestic purposes, is by no means
inconsiderable.

The mines of copper are not confined to any
particular district, but scattered throughout the
country ; those of silver, on the contrary, are
found only in the highest and coldest parts of
the Andes. This situation, so unfavourable for
working them, and the vast expense of refining,
have caused a great number of mines, though rich
in ore, to be abandoned, and there are but three
or four that are at present worked. But it may
be presumed, when the population of this coun-
try becomes increased and its industry excited,
that these mines, now neglected, will become an

VOL, I, 6

object of attention, and that the enterprise o5 &.
future generation will conquer those obstruc-
tions which impede the labours of the present.

All the provinces bordering upon the Andes
produce some silver mines, but the richest are
in those of St. J ago, Aconcagua> Coquimbo, andL
Copiapo. In these it is found not only in a me-
tallic form, but under the appearance of vitreous
ore, hornbend, and red, grey and white ore,,
wherein the silver is mineralized with sulphur
and arsenic, and it is occasionally found com-
bined with other metals. In the year 1767, a.
piece of silver ore was found in the neighbour-
hood of Copiapo ; it was of a green colour,
and, on being assayed, was found, to contain
three-fourths of pure silver. It was mineral-
ized with a small quantity of sulphur, and
much search has since been ineffectually made by
the inhabitants to discover the vein from which,
it was detached.

The ore held in the highest estimation by the
miners is the black, so called from its matrix
being of a dark colour. Those of them who.
are experienced are scarcely ever deceived in this
ore, and whenever they strike upon a new vein
can nearly determine by the eye the quantity of
silver which it will yield. This ore presents,
three very distinct varieties, though differing but
little in appearance. The first, called negrillo.

83

resembles the scoria of iron, and affords no ap-
parent indication of silver. The second, the ros-
ciclaro, which is distinct from the red silver ore,
yields a red p6wder when filed; it is very rich,
although its external appearance is not promising.
The third, the piombo ronco, is the richest of
all ; as it is mineralized with a very small quan-
tity of sulphur, it is much more easily separated
than the others, which require a more laborious
and complicated operation.

These three varieties of ore are obtained from
the mine of Uspallata, the largest and richest
of any of the silver mines in Chili. It is situated
upon the eastern mountains of that portion of
the Andes which forms a part of the province of
Aconcagua. On the top of these mountains is a
large plain called Uspallata of more than seven-
teen leagues in length and three in breadth, it is
watered by a pleasant river and covered with de-
lightful groves, the air is healthy and temperate,
and the soil fertile. This plain serves as a base
to another more elevated, called Paramilld, upon
which the Andes of the first rank rise to such a
height as to be seen distinctly at St. Louis de la
Punta, a distance of one hundred and twenty
leagues. The ridge of these immense mountains
is a blackish clay stone, containing a great num-
ber of round stones similar to those of rivers,
This phenomenon appears to be unexplainable
g2

84'

in any other way but on the principle of a general
deluge ; though some authors have, ridiculously
enough, accounted for it, by supposing that the
ancient Indians amused themselves in throwing
these stones upon this mass, while it was yet soft
a>nd in a state of clay. But besides the irration-
ality of such a- conjecture, the Abbe Morales of
Cujo, an intelligent naturalist, who carefully ex^
amined these mountains, affirms that the interior
©f this mass is no less filled with these stones
than the exterior, which of itself affords a suf-
ficient proof to the contrary.

The mine of Uspallata extends along the base
of the eastern mountains of the plain of the same
name, from the thirty -third degree of latitude,
in a direct northerly course ; but the termination
of it is unknown, for I have heen assured, by
persons who have followed it for thirty leagues,
that it continues to be equally abundant at that
distance, and there are those who assert that it is
a ramification of the celebrated mine of Potosi.
The principal vein is nine feet in breadth, but
it branches out upon both sides into several that
are smaller, which extend to the neighbouring
mountains, and are said to exceed thirty miles in
length. The matrix of the great vein is a-
various-coloured earth, which separates it into
five parallel divisions or layers, of different thick-
nesses. The middle layer is but two inches thick ;
the ore, which is called by the miners the guida,

m

as black, but so filled with metallic particles as,
to have a whitish appearance ; the two next
strata are brown, and are c&Wedjrinterias, the two
exterior ones are of a dark grey, and known by
the name of brozas. Although the general di-
rection of this vein is horizontal, it sometimes
.runs perpendicular, and is found to increase in
jichnessin proportion to its depth. From assays,
which have been made at Lima on the ore of
Uspallata, it appears that the guida yields more
than two hundred marks of silver the caxon ;*
the pintarias, mixed with the gidda, fifty ; and
the brozas fourteen ; a produce not inferior to
that of the mine of Potosi. The mine of Us-
pallata was discovered in the year 1638, but
although on its first discovery it furnished the
strongest indications of its wealth, from want of
labourers, or some other «ause, it was neglected
until 1763, but since that period has been con-
stantly wrought with immense profit.

Before the arrival of the Europeans, the In-
dians employed a very simple method to sepa--
rate the silver from the ore, especially when the
metal was in a metallic form, and not mineralized

• A term made use of by the American metallurgists to ex-
press the quantity of ore which a single miner can dig in a
day, usually calculated at fifty quintals ; but, as this quantity
contains more or less of the matrix, it is imposible to a9cer*
hiin the amount of pure ore contained in each caxon,

q3

86

or combined with othersubstanc.es. This method
consisted in merely exposing the ore to a degree
of heat capable of melting the metal which it
contained. When the ore was united with other
substances, or mineralized, and of course more
difficult to be melted, they made use of a kind
of open furnace, constructed upon elevated
ground, in order that the fire should be kept up
by a constant current of air. This appears to
have been adopted with a vi,ew to save labour, as
they were not unacquainted with the use of the
bellows, which was known to them under the
name of pimahue; and even at present this mode
is preferred by the poorer class, who practice it,
and no small part of the silver, employed as a
circulating medium in Chili, is obtained from
these clandestine foundries.

The process generally pursued, particularly
by the wealthy proprietors, is that of amalgama-
tion.* In this case they begin with reducing

* Almost all the precipitous and broken grounds of Chili
contain gold in greater or less quantities ; the surface of the
earth in which it is found is generally of a reddish colour and
soft to the touch.

These lavaderos, or places producing earth which yields
gold by agitating it in water, are very common in Chili, but
the indolence of the Spaniards and the want of labourers
suffer immense treasures to remain in the earth which might,
easily be obtained; but, not satisfied with small gains, they
work those miucs only width yield a great profit ; of course.

S7

♦fhe ore to powder by grinding it in a mill. This
powder is then passed through a wire sieve and
spread upon the hides of cattle,, where it is mixed
with sea salt, quicksilver, and rotten dung. After

whenever any one of this character is discovered, numbers
flock to it from all quarters, as was the case of Copiapo and.
.Lainpagua, which by this means became peopled so rapidly,
from the great concourse of labourers, that in the space o£
two years six mills were established at the latter place. The
citv of Conception is situated in a country abounding not only
with all the necessaries of life, but with immense riches, par-
ticularly a place called the King's Camp, about twelve leagues
to the east, from whence is obtained by the lavadero pieces of
pure gold, called in the country pepitas, of from eight to tea
marks* in weight. It has likewise been discovered in the vi-
cinity of Angola and if the inhabitants of the country were
ltidustrious, many other spots would be explored where it \s
believed there are very good lavaderos. Nine or ten leagues
to the east of Coquimbo are the lavaderos of Andacoll, which
produce gold of 23 carats fine, and are worked constantly
with great profit when there is no scarcity of water. This has
given rise to a saying of the inhabitants that the ground is
creative, that is, that gold is continually formed in it ; found-
ed in the circumstance of their finding that metal in as great
quantities as at first, although it is sixty or eighty years since
these lavaderos have been worked. Besides the lavaderos,
which are in all the valleys, so numerous are the mines of gold
and some of silver that are met with in the mountains, that
they would furnish employment for more than forty thousand
men. — Fraxier's Voyage.

Chili abounds in mines of all kinds, more especially in

* The Spanish mark is eight ounces.

g4

wetting this mixture from time to time, and beat-
ing and treading it well for the space of eight
days., in order to incorporate the silver and the
mercury, it is put into a stone trough with water
sufficient to dilute it. ' In this situation,, the silver
amalgamated with the mercury, from its weight
sinks to the bottom, while the lighter heterogeneous
particles are drawn off with the water through a
hole in the trough into a vessel placed to receive
it. This amalgam, after having been repeatedly
washed to cleanse it from all foreign substances,
is put into a linen bag, and the mercury, which

those of gold and copper, which are very common. Co-
quimbo, Copiapo, and Guasco have gold mines, the ore of
which is called by way of distinction, oro capote, as being the
most valuable of any that has hitherto been discovered.— •
American Gazetteer; article Chili.

These valleys contain, besides mines of silver, those of lead,
copper, and quicksilver, and a very great number of gold.
Of this last there is so much found in the sands of the rivulets,
that a certain author has said that Chili is a composition of this
precious metal. The quantity obtained by Pedro de Valdivia,
who entered Chili after Almagro, was immense. That general
opened mines of gold which were so rich that each Indian
furnished from thirty to forty ducats daily, as, when only
twelve or fifteen where employed, he obtained three or four
hundred ducats a day. This concurs with what Garcilasso
says in liis history of Peru, that a part .of Chili fell to the
lot of Vajdivia, who received from his vassals an annual
iribute of more than one hundred thousand pieces of gold.-^.
Sanson's (©f Abbeville) Geography, article Chili.

89

jhas not become incorporated with the silver, ej>
pressed from it. In this state of paste the
amalgam receives any shape, but is usually
formed with moulds into small cylindrical tubes.
The last process is that of separating the mer-
cury from the silver; this js done, by means of
evaporation, in a receiver which is filled with
water, and closely fitted with a head. The
small quantity of lead or other metal that may
remain after this process can only be detached
by melting it.

Gold, of all the metals, is that which is most
abundant in Chili, and it may be said that there
is not a mountain or hill but contains it in a
greater or less degree ; it is found also in the
sands of the plains, but more especially in those
washed down by the brooks and rivers.* Seve-
ral French and English authors affirm that the
gold of Chili is the purest and most valuable of
any ; and it is true that its general standard is
from twenty-two to twenty-three and a half
carats. In the southern provinces, between the

* A person,, on opening a water-course to an estate in the
plain of Huilquilemu, discovered, with much surprise, a vein
©f gold dust, which produced more than fifty-thousand dollars
without the least labour. The same good fortune occurred to
another in ploughing a piece .of land for grain. These in.
stances are not unusual ; and naturalists have given the name
of monlas to these kind of casual mines, which are always of
Small extent.

90

river Bio-bio and the Archipelago of Chiloe,
several very rich mines of gold were formerly
discovered, which yielded immense snms ; but
since the expulsion of the Spaniards from those
provinces by the Araucanians, these mines have
been in the possession of that warlike people,
who have prohibited the opening them anew
by any one under pain of death.

The most important mines that are at present
wrought are those of Copiapo, Guase, Co-
quimbo, Pctorca, Ligua, Tiltil, Putaendo,
Caen, Alhue, Chibato, and Huilli-patagua.
All these, excepting the three last, which are
of recent discovery, have been wrought ever
since the conquest, and have constantly yielded
a great product. But this is by no means the
case with all the mines that are discovered :
in many the miners are allured at first with ap-
pearances of great riches, but soon find the ore
entirely fail, or in so small quantities as not to
repay them for their labour. The metallurgists
of Chili call this kind of wandering mine bolson;
the same name is also applied to the ramifi-
cations, which in general are circular, and to
the richest veins where the ore is found lodged
in heaps and cavities. Another obstruction to
working the mines are the inundations to which
they are subject from subterraneous springs.
These are frequent, and, when they occur,
compel the miners to abandon the mine, wh&

91

seldom attempt to free it by drawing off or di-
verting the water. Some years since an acci-
dent of this kind occurred to the celebrated
mine of Peldehus, in the neighbourhood of
St. Jago. That mine, which produced daily up-
wards of fifteen hundred pounds weight of gold,
was suddenly inundated, and the workmen were
compelled to abandon it, after having in vain
made every exertion to free it from the water.

fhe matrix of the gold is very variable, and
it may be said that there is no kind of stone or
earth but what serves it for that purpose. It is
to be seen every where, either in small grains or
brilliant spangles, under singular forms, or in
irregular masses, that may be cut by the chissel.
The most usual matrix is a very brittle red
play stone. The salbanda, or the exterior co-
vering of t]\e veins, called by miners caxas, is
as variable ^s the matrix ; it is sometimes of
spar or quartz, at others it consists chiefly of
flint, marble, or hornbend. The principal veins
are frequently ramified into a number of smaller
ones that are generally very rich. They some-
times descend almost vertically into the earth,
and in those instances require great labour and
expense to be pursued ; at others they take a
circular direction a few feet under ground, and
meet, particularly at the foot of mountains.
The usual course of the veins, though subject
to some variations, is from south to north,

92

The mines are worked both with the pickaxe
And by explosion. The ore is reduced to pow-
der in a mill of a very simple ^construction,
called trapiche, of which two stones, the lower
placed horizontally, and the upper vertical^,
form the mechanism. The horizontal is about
six feet in diameter, and has near its circumfe-
rence a groove of eighteen inches deep, in which
the ore is placed ; through the centre passes a
perpendicular cylinder connected with a cog-
wheel turned by water. The vertical stone is
about four feet in diameter, and ten or fifteen
inches thick, and is furnished with a horizontal
axis, which permits it to turn freely within the
groove. When the ore is sufficiently pulve-
rized/ a proportionate quantity of quicksilver is
added to it, which is immediately amalgamated
with the gold ; to moisten the mass, and in*
corporate it more fully, a small stream of water
is then directed above it, which also serves to
carry off the amalgam into reservoirs placed
beneath the stone. The gold combined with
the mercury falls to the bottom of these reser-
voirs in the form of whitish globules ; the mer-
cury is next evaporated by heat, and the gold
appears, in its true colour, and in all its bril-
liancy. In each of these mills upwards of two
thousand weight of ore is daily ground and
amalgamated.

As the digging of the stone ore obtained from

93

the mines is very expensive, from the number of
workmen and the materials required, it is pur-
sued only by the rich ; but it furnishes a much
greater profit than the lavadero, or the ore pro-
cured by the washing of auriferous sands, which
is practised only by the poorer class, and those
who cannot afford the necessary expenses of
mining. The washing is performed in the fol-
lowing manner : the earth or sand containing
particles of gold is put into a vessel of wood or
horn, called pornna, which is placed in a run-
ning stream, and constantly shaken ; by this
means the sand which contains no metallic
particles, being lighter, is thrown out over the
top, and the more weighty, or the gold,
remains at the bottom. This operation is ne-
cessary to be repeated several times in order t&
earry off ail the ferruginous earth which is
always united with gold. But as many of the
smaller metallic particles must necessarily be
washed away with the earth by this process, a*
mode, in my opinion, much more economical,
is that employed in some places of washing the
sand upon inclined planks covered with sfceep^
skin. Defective as the process of washing is,
the profit that accrues from it is frequently
almost incredible, as it is not unusual to find
among the sand large pieces of gold, called pe-
pitas, which sometimes exceed a pound in
■weight; but it is more commonly found in a

pulverized state, and in the form of little round
or lenticular grains. This gold is sold in the
cities in little purses, made of the scrotums of
sheep, as in the time of Pliny, and is generally
more esteemed than that of the mines, as it is
of a better colour and a finer standard.

The quantity of gold annually dug in Chili
is difficult to be estimated. That called oro*
quintado, which pays the fifth to the royal trea-
sury, does not amount to less than four millions
of dollars, of which there is coined at the mint
of St. Jago, a million and a half; the residue
is exported in bullion^ or used in the country for
plate and jewelry. The amount smuggled with-
out paying the duty cannot be calculated, but it
certainly is very considerable. I have made
much search, but without success, to discover
the platina, or white gold, found in Peru.
What bears the name of white gold in Chili is
a mixture of gold and silver, in which the latter
predominates. But since I left that country a
new immalleable metal, of a kind unknown to
the miners, has been discovered in the gold
mine of Capati, on the mountains of Copiapo,
which I imagine can be no other than platina.

Many obstacles present themselves to impede
the working of the mines, both in the danger to
which the miners are exposed from the mephitic
vapours, called mountain fires, and in the vast
expense attending the digging them. The great

95

number of tools, the timber required for prop-
ping the arches^ which is very scarce and ex-
pensive in the country, the numerous workmen
who must be paid and subsisted, together with
the uncertainty of the product, are reasons
which operate powerfully to discourage those
who are inclined to engage in mining ; of
course, the number of those who pursue this bu-
siness is very small in comparison to that of the
mines.

When any persons are desirous of opening a
mine, application is made to the government,
which readily grants its permission, and ap-
points an inspector, under whose authority and
direction they begin by dividing the mine into
three equal parts, or estacas, each two hundred
and forty-six feet long and one hundred and
twenty-three broad. The first portion belongs
to the king, in whose name it is sold, the se-
cond to the owner of the land, and the third to.
the discoverer of the mine. As the opening of
a mine is very injurious to the cultivation of the
land in which it i* situated, the proprietors of
the soil endeavour to prevent as much a& possi-
ple the discovery of veins in their grounds.
The number of persons who flock from alL
quarters to a newly opened mine, that promises
to be profitable, is almost incredible. Some
come thither to work, others to sell their pro-
visions, which at such times are in great de~

96

mand ; and in this manner a kind of fair is gra-
dually established, which leads to the erection
of houses, and finally to the formation of a per-
manent town or village. A magistrate, with
the title of the Alcayde of the mine, is then ap-
pointed by the government to regulate and su-
perintend it, and as this office is almost always
very lucrative, the governor of the province ge-
nerally assumes it, and appoints a deputy to ma-
nage it for his account.

The miners of Chili are in general well ac-
quainted with metallurgy. They are expert int
mining and in the art of assaying and refining
metals ; but their knowledge is wholly practi-
cal, and they are entirely ignorant of the theory
or the real principles of the art. They are di-
vided into three classess, the first those who
labour in the mine, the second the founders and
refiners, the third the porters, or those who
carry off the mineral. In general they are a
bold, enterprising, and prodigal class of men.
Familiarized to the sight of the precious metals,
they learn to disregard them, and attach but
little value to money. They are extravagant in
their expenses, and passionately addicted to
gaming, in which they pass almost all their
leisure moments ; and instances are not uufre-
quent of a miner losing one or two thousand
crowns of a night. Losses of this nature are
considered by them as trifles, and on such oc-

i

' 97

fcasions ttiey gaily console themselves with a
professional proverb, that, cc the mountains ne-
ver keep accounts." Nothing is more abhorrent
to them than frugality, and whenever they find
one of their companions who has amassed a
sum of money by his economy, they leave no
means untried to strip him of it, observing,
that avarice is a vice peculiarly degrading to the
character of a miner ; and so addicted are they
to ebriety, that those who on first joining them
are remarkable for their abstemiousness, are
sooh led, from the influence of example, to par-
ticipate in the general intemperance. From
these causes none of them acquire property,
and they generally die in the greatest poverty
and distress, while the profits of their labour
are wholly absorbed by those who supply them
with provisions and liquor.

Sect. XIII. Concretions. — The last class of
the mineral kingdom, the concretions, offers
nothing very remarkable in Chili. Pumice
stone is so common in the interior of the Andes,
that it forms the substance of several mountains.
A species of it, of a light grey, is in much es-
timation with the inhabitants, who use it for
filtering stones. Petrified wood has beea dis-
covered in many places. I have seen pieces of
hewn timber, completely petrified, dug out of
a little hill near Valparaiso, some of which

vol. I. ir

98

were eight feet long, and bore the visible
marks of the European axe, a proof that this
wood must have become petrified since the
arrival of the Spaniards.* Of all kinds of wood

* That the marks in this wood were produced by an axe,
or some tool of a similar kind, I am not disposed to question ;
but that it must have been an European axe, will fairly admit
of doubt. The Mexicans, on the arrival of the Spaniards,
made use of axes or hatchets of copper, and, as we are assured
by some respectable authors, possessed the art of tempering
that metal for tools in a manner entirely unknown to the Eu-
ropeans ; and that this secret was known to the ancient Chilians
is by no means improbable, considering their contiguity and
intercourse with the Peruvians, a people whose progress in the
arts was not inferior to that of the Mexicans. As the period
when this timber was cut is however wholly conjectural, it
may perhaps be referred to an earlier date than any authen-
ticated or even traditionary accounts of the country ; to an
era when the use of iron was very possibly known, perhaps
anterior to the deluge, when the face of the globe exhibited
far different aspects and relations than at present. That this
hypothesis is not wholly destitute of verisimilitude, the follow-
ing may serve to show : One of the numbers of the Richmond
Enquirer, for the present year, 1807, in giving an account of
the antiquities of the interior of America, observes, that, " a
copper mine was opened some years since further down the
Mississippi (below the falls of St. Anthony) when, to the great
surprise of the labourers, a large collection of mining tools
were found several fathoms below the surface ;" and the
writer of this note has been informed, from respectable au-
thority, that within a short time since, in the state of Ken-
tucky, some labourers, in digging a well, discovered, at the
depth of one hundred feet from the surface, the stump of a

99

the Chilian willow is perhaps the most suscep-
tible of petrifaction, and pieces of it are every
where to be met with that have undergone this
change ; to effect which, it requires to be bu-
ried but for a short time in a moist and sandy
soil. I have also found pieces of the Peruvian
taper with the thorns adhering to them com-
pletely petrified, though instances of this are
less frequent, as the moist and spongy texture
of that tree renders it less liable to petrifaction.*

Idrge tree, with an axe adhering to it, apparently of iron, as
on attempting to disengage it, it fell into pieces, which re-
sembled the rusty scales of that metal.— Am. Trans.

* Coal is not mentioned among the mineral productions of
Chili : Herrera, however, says there b a coal mine upon the
beach, near the city of Conception ; a black stone, he calls it,
which burns like charcoal. — E. E.

Dec. 8. L.6. C. 11.

H2

100

CHAP. III.

Herbs, Shrubs, and Trees.

Whenever mineralogists undertake to cha-
racterize the external appearance of a mineral
country, they describe it as particularly recog-
nizable by the weakness of its vegetation and
the faded colour of the plants, occasioned by
the mineral vapours. This observation is in ge-
neral too bold, and frequently contrary to expe-
rience. M. Macquer * observes very properly,
that there are some countries which are rich in
mines, whose vegetation is not injured thereby.
This is precisely the situation of Chili, a
country, as we have seen, rich in mineral pro-
ductions of every kind, and enjoying at the
same time a vigorous and profuse vegetation.
The plains, the valleys, and the mountains, are
covered with beautiful trees, many of which
scarcely ever lose their verdure, and each season
produces vegetables suited to the climate in the-
greatest perfection. Feuille has given an ac-
count of those plants, only which grow upon the

* Dictionary of Clicmistry ; article Mines.

101

sea shore, or in marshy places in its vicinity.
The interior part of the country has never been
explored by an able botanist, and I am con-
vinced that a great number of unknown plants
might be discovered there..

Had I been desirous of enlarging the limits
of this work, I might have given a very copious
enumeration of the plants of Chili; but I prefer
confining myself to those only which are most
important and useful. As these may be reduced
to a small number, I have divided them into
herbs, grasses,* climbing plants, shrubs, and
trees. I am aware that this division is not
scientific, but it is convenient, and better suited
to the plan I have pursued in my description of
vegetables.

Sect. I. Herbs. — Many of the plants which
are found in the country, such as the mallows,
trefoil, plaintain, endive, mint, nettles, &c. are
common both to Chili and to Europe. Others
that are carefully cultivated in the European
gardens grow naturally there, such as lupins,
love apples, Spanish pimento, celery, cresses,
mustard, fennel, &c.f Of the tropical plants,

* I liave rendered grasses what the author has called in
Italian canue (reeds). — Fr. Trans.

t All our plants are cultivated there without difficulty, and ,
produce abundantly, and there are some that grow naturally

h3

102

several succeed very well in the northern pro-
vinces, among which are the sugar-cane, the
pine-apple, the cotton, the banana, the sweet
potatoe, jalap, mechoacan, and others of less
importance. Besides these, Chili produces a
great number of plants that appear to be pe-
culiar to it. There are some that are common
to all the provinces, others are confined to cer-
tain districts. In my different herborizations
while in Chili, I collected about three thousand
plants, the greater part of which are non-de-
script, and not -to be found in any botanical
work. Among these were a number whose
flowers are remarkable for their beauty and
fragrance, and which, in their season, give the
fields the appearance of so many parterres ; but
the inhabitants in general pay but little attention

in the fields, as the turnip, succory, endive, Sec. Nor are the
aromatic herbs less common, as balm, mug-wort, camomile,
and a kind of mouse-ear, which has the smell of a hyacinth ;
the alkeugi, or winter-cherry, whose fruit . is more odoriferous
than that of France ; a species of sage, called by the Indians
palghi, that grows like a shrub, with a leaf resembling rose-
mary, and an odour like Hungary water. Roses grow na-
turally upon the hills ; the most common kind are entirely
destitute of thorns, or have but a very few. In the fields is
found a flower similar to the kind of lily called in Britany
guerneziaises, the Indian name of which is liuio ; it consists
of six petals, two of which are in the form of a plume. The
root, when dried in an oven, furnishes a very white meal,
which is excellent for pastry. — Fraxiers Voyage, vol.'i,

103

to them, and prefer decorating their gardens
with exotic * (lowers received from Europe,
to cultivating their own.

The domestic animals live during the whole
year in the open fields, and from feeding on the
aromatic plants, so abundant in Chili, their
flesh acquires a flavour superior to what it has
in any other country. The Chilians have no oc-
casion to provide hay for their cattle, as the
herbage never fails, and there is a constant
succession of the different plants which serve
them for food. In the cities the horses are fed
with barley and a species of clover. Trefoil,
called by the Indians gualputhe, is one of the
most common plants of the country; of this
there are not less than twelve different kinds to
be found in the meadows, which contain much
lucerne, and a species of Venus's comb, com-
monly called loiqui laliuen, or aJjilerillo, of
which the cattle are peculiarly fond. This
plant, which I have named scandix cliilensis, is
distinguished from the European species by its
aromatic odour, by its stem, which is not
striated, and by its leaves ; these are larger,

* The rose-bush was introduced into Peru from Spain : it
shot up so luxuriantly that it did not blossom. By some ac-
cident a rosier was burnt, and the young shoots from the
root lowered. This taught them to cut the bushes down,
and then they succeeded.— E. E,

Herrera 5. 4. 8.

h4

104

and although winged like the Venus's comb of
Europe,, have some of their lesser leaves entire
and fleshy. This plant is reputed to be vulne-
rary, and its Chilian name, signifying the herb
of wounds, is expressive of this quality.

The soil is so fertile that the herbage grows
to such a height in man}' pastures as completely
to conceal the sheep, especially in the valleys
of the Andes, where the vegetation is always
the most vigorous. But amidst this luxuriant
growth there are two or three species of plants
injurious to cattle, which are much dreaded,
especially a kind known in the country by the
name of yerba loca, or herb of madness, from
its rendering those animals who eat of it mad,
particularly horses.

This plant, which forms a new genus, I have
called hippomaiiica. Its stalks are of an an-
gular shape, a foot and a half in height ; the
leaves are opposite, lanceolated, entire, and
fleshy, of a clear grey, about an inch in length,
and attached to the branches without a foot-
stalk ; the flower is formed like a rose, and
grows at the top of the branches ; it consists of
five oval petals, of a yellow colour, supported
by a calyx divided into five parts; when ripe,
the pystil becomes changed into a capsula,
separated into four cells, which contain black
kidney-shaped seeds. The juice of this plant is
viscous, of a, yellowish colour, and sweetish

105

taste ; the husbandmen take great pains to destroy
jt} notwithstanding which, it constantly springs
up again, and if a horse eats of it, he is sure to
die, unless immediate measures are taken to make
him sweat profusely by violent exercise.

Besides those which have been brought from
Europe, Chili produces a great number of valu-
able plants, both alimentary, medicinal, and such
as are useful in the arts. Many of these, parti-
cularly the alimentary kind, were well known and
cultivated before the arrival of the Spaniards.

Sect. II. Alimentary Herbs or Plants.-— The
maize (zeamais) or Turkey wheat, called by
the Chilians gua, was well known in America
when Columbus first arrived there. This fact is
confirmed by all the writers of that period, and it
is very certain that it was the only species of
corn at that time made use of by the natives.
The improper application of the name of the
Indies to America has probably led M. Bomare
to observe, that the maize is indigenous to Asia,
from whence it was carried into Europe, and
from thence to America. There are likewise
$ome authors, as C. Durante, in his herbal,
who improperly denominate it Turkey wheat,
considering it as originally from Turkey.

Maize grows extremely well in Chili,* and

* In the old continent wheat is the most common grain,
but in the new world maize has always been, and still is, the

106

the inhabitants cultivate eight or nine varieties
of it, several of which are very productive.
But that which is in the highest repute with
them is called uminla ; from this they prepare a
dish by bruising the corn while it is green be-
tween two stones into the form of paste, to
which is added sufficient salt or butter and sugar
to season it ; it is then divided into small por-
tions or cakes, which are enclosed separately
within the inner skin or husk of the corn and*
boiled.

When the maize is ripe the Indians prepare it
for winter in two different modes, either by
slightly roasting it, which they call chuchoca, or
by drying it in the sun ; from the former they
make a kind of soup, by boiling it in water, and
from the latter a beer of a very pleasant taste.
They sometimes reduce it to meal, but before
grinding, roast and crack it by means of heated
sand. For this purpose they prefer a kind of
maize called curagua, the grains of which are
smaller than the others, and furnish a meal that
is more light, whiter and in greater quantity.
From this meal, mixed with sugar and water,
either hot or cold, they make two different be-
verages, called ulpo and cherchan.

A species of rye called magu} and of barley

most general; it is produced in all parts of the West-Indies,
in Peru, in New Spain, in Guatimala, in Chili, and throughout
Terra Firma. — Acostas Natural History, book iv.

107

called tuca, were cultivated by the Araucanians
before the arrival of the Spaniards; but since
the introduction of the European wheat, the
cultivation of these has been entirely neglected,
and I have not been able even to procure a spe-
cimen, for the purpose of describing them. All
that is known at present is that the Araucanians
made a bread from them called covque, which
name they give to that made from maize or
European grain.

The quinua is a species of chenopodium from
three to four feet in height; it has large rhora-
boidal sinuated leaves of a deep green, and the
flowers are disposed upon long spikes ; the grain
is black and spirally twisted, which gives it, of
course, a lenticular appearance. There is a variety
of this plant called ddhue by the Indians, which
has greyish leaves, and produces a white grain.
The grain of the quinua serves far making a
very pleasant stomachic beverage ; that of the
daliue, on being boiled, lengthens out in the form
of worms, and is excellent in soup. The leaves
are also eaten, and are tender and of an agreeable
taste.

The degul is a species of bean (phaseolus vul-
garis). Before this country was conquered by
the Spaniards, thirteen or fourteen kinds of the
bean, varying but little from the common Euro-
pean bean, were cultivated by the natives. One
of these has a straight stalk, the other thirteen

• 108

are climbers ; of these, two are very remark-
able, the phaseolis pallar, the bean of which is
half an inch long, and the phaseolus asellus,
which is spherical and pulpy.

Chili is considered by M. Bomare as the na-
tive soil of that valuable esculent the potatoe
(solanuni tuberosum)., an indigenous American
root, likewise known by the names of papa and
pogny. It is, indeed, found in all the fields of
that country ; but those plants that grow wild,
called by the Indians maglia, produce only very
small roots of a bitterish taste. It is distin-
guished by two different species, and more than
thirty varieties, several of which are carefully
cultivated. The first is the common kind; the
second, called solanum cari, bears white flowers
with a large nectary in the middle like the nar-
cissus ; its root is cylindrical and very sweet.
The usual mode of cooking it is by roasting it
under the ashes.

The oca (oxalis tuberosa) appears to be of a
different kind from the oca of Peru ; in its form
and fructification it resembles the yellow wood
sorrel ; its leaves are disposed by threes, and are
of an acid taste, and the flowers are oval ; its
root extends itself into five or six tuberosities of
three or four inches in length, covered with a
thin smooth skin. They are eaten cooked, and
have a pleasani subacid taste. This plant h
also, like the potatoe, multiplied by means of its

109

bulbs ; there are several species of it, one of
which, called by the Chilians red culle, is held
in much estimation for dying, and is considered
as a specific in inflammatory fevers. Among*
them is likewise the barilla, or the alleluia vir-
gosa of Coquimbo : This last produces but a
few radical trilocated leaves ; its stalks, which
are numerous, are very tender, and of an acid
taste ; they are five feet in length, of the size
of a man's finger, and covered with yellow
flowers suspended in vertical bells.

Of the gourd, two principal species are known
in Chili, the white flowered, and the yellow
flowered, or the Indian gourd. Of the first
kind, called by the Indians quada, there are
twenty-six varieties, several of which produce
fruit that is sweet and edible, but that of the
others is bitter. Of the bitter kinds the most
distinguished is the cider gourd ( cucurbita ci-
ceraria*) so called from the Indians making use
of it, after extracting the seeds and perfuming ii^

* The cahbashes of the Indians are another wonderful
production for their size and the luxuriance of their growth ,
especially those called %apallos, the pulp of which, particu-
larly in Q aaresma, are eaten boiled or fried. There is a gseat
variety of this species of the calabash ; some of them are so
large that when dried, and the shell divided in the middle
and cleansed, they are used as covered baskets to put pro
visions in ; others that are smaller are employed as vessels to
drink from, or handsomely wrought for various purposes.— •
Acosla's Natural History, book iv.
1 '

110

to ferment their cider. It is naturally of a round
form, and frequently grows to a large size. It
is also used by the natives instead of baskets,
and in such cases they give it whatever shape
they think proper. The yellow flowered or
Indian gourd, called penca, is of two kinds,
the common and the mamillary ; this last in its
leaves and flowers resembles the first, but the
figure of the fruit is spheroidal, with a large
nipple at the end ; the pulp is sweet, and its
taste is very similar to a kind of potatoe known
by the name of camote.

The quelghen, or the strawberry of Chili,
differs from the European in its leaves, which
are rough and succulent, and in the size of its
fruit, which is frequently that of a hen's egg.
The strawberries, like those of Europe, are ge-
nerally red or white, but those that are yellow
are also to be found in the provinces of Puchacay
and Huilquilemu, where they attain greater
perfection than elsewhere.* The strawberry of

* The strawberry of Chili is an hermaphrodite and
dioecial, and the plants brought by Frazier to Europe were
probably only some female hermaphrodite shoots, which pro-
duced fruit in consequence of being impregnated by some of
our strawberries which were in the vicinity. Had the author
been in a situation to have become acquainted with this cir-
cumstance, he would not have called that degeneration which
is merely the result of an unnatural fecundity.

The want of male plants, as appears from Miller, is also
the reason of the English having abandoned the cultivation ©f
his strawberry. — Fr. Trans*

Ill

Chili was introduced many years since into
Europe,, and 1 have seen in the botanic garden at
Bologna th6 white • kind, which is the most,
common in Chili, but it had lost much by trans-
plantation ; its fruit was small, and little of the
fragrance was left which renders it so highly es-
teemed in Chili.*

The madi (madia, gen. nov. ) Of this plant
there are two kinds, the one wild, the other cul-
tivated. The cultivated, which I have called
madia sativa, has a branching hairy stalk, nearly
five feet in height; the leaves are villous and

* We found in the desert strawberries of a very fine flavour,
equal in size to our largest nuts, and of a pale white ; and
although they resembled the European neither in colour nor
in taste, they were nevertheless excellent. — Feuille, vol. i.

There are whole fields where a species of strawberry is
cultivated that differs from ours hi its leaves, which are
rounder and more fleshy and hairy ; the fruit is usually the
size of a nut, and sometimes that of a hen's egg. The colour
is a whitish red, and the taste not so delicate as that of our
strawberries. But there is not wanting in the woods a great
plenty of the European kind. — Fraxiers Voyage, vol. i.

The fruits most abundant in Chili are of the same kinds
with those known in Europe, among which are cherries that
are large and of a delicate taste, strawberries of two kiudi,
one called frutilla, which is of the size of a small hen's egg ;
and another, in colour, smell and taste, like that of Spain,
which grows wild at the foot of the little hills ; likewise all
kinds of flowers are found there without any other culti-
vation than what they receive from the hands of nature itself.
— UUoa's Voyage, gdparf, vol. iii.

ii2

placed by threes; they are four inches in length,
half an inch in breadth, and of a bright green like
the leaves of the rose laurel ; its flowers are ra-
diated and of a yellow colour; the seeds are con-
vex on one side, and covered with a very thin
brownish pellicle on the other ; they are from
four to five lines in length, and enclosed in a sphe-
rical pericarpium of about eight or nine lines in
diameter. An excellent oil is obtained from the
seeds, cither by expression, or merely boiling
them ; it is of an agreeable taste, very mild, and
as clear as the best olive oil . Feuille, who resided
three years in Chili, praises it highly, and gives
it the preference to any olive oil used in France.*
This plant, hitherto unknown in Europe, would be-
come themost valuable acquisitionto those coun-
tries where the olive cannot be raised. The wild
madi (madia mellosa) is distinguished from the
other by its leaves, which are amplexicaul and
glutinous to the feeling.

The pimento ( capsicum ) called by the Indians
ihapi. Of this plant many species are cultivated
in Chili, among others the aunual pimento, which

* From the seed of this plant is obtained an admirable oil,
which the inhabitants of the country use in various ways — to
alleviate pain by rubbing with it the diseased part, to season
their victuals, and also for light. To my taste it is sweeter and
more pleasant than most of our olive oil which it resembles
in colour.— Feu-ill'', vol. hi.

HI

h there perennial, the berry pimento, and the pi-
mento with a subligeuous stalk. The inhabit-
ants make use equally of all the three to season
their food.

Besides those whit h I have mentioned, the
Chilians make use of many other excellent plants,
which, though natural to the country, require a
more attentive cultivation ; of these the principal
are the umbellifera, t'*e bermudiana or illmu,
and the hemeroca lis of Feu i lie. Theumbellifera,
or heracleum tuberosum, in its leaves, flowers,
and seed resembles the illmu, but is distinguished
from it by the quantity of its bulbs, which are
six inches long* and three broad ; the colour of
the bulbs is yellow and their taste very pleasant,
it grows naturally in sandy places near hedges,
and produces abundantly.

The bermudiana bulbosa, or the illmu of
Feuille, has a branchy stalk, and its leaves are
very similar to those of the leek; the flower is
of a violet colour, and divided into six parts,
which are turned back towards the foot-stalk;
it has six stamens and a triangular pystil; the
seeds are black and round, and the bulbs when
boiled or roasted are excellent food.*

The hemerocallis, or, the liuto of the Indians,

* The natives of the country make use of the root of this
plant in their soups, and it is very pleasant to the taste, as I
have myself experienced. — FeuilU.
VOL. I. I

114

has a stalk of a foot in height ; the leaves are
pointed and embrace the stem, which divides
itself at the top* into' a number of pedicles bear-
ing a beautiful red flower of the shape of a lily.
The root is bulbous, and yields a very light white
and nutritious flour, which is used for the sick.

The liliaceous plants offer a great variety
throughout Chili, and are known to the Arauca-
nians by the generic name of gil. I have col-
lected myself more than twenty-three different
species of them, many of which were adorned
with superb flowers.

In the province of St. Jago is found a species,
of wild basil (ocymum salinum) differing in its
appearance from the common or garden species
only in its stalk, which is round and jointed; but
in its smell and taste it resembles more the alga,
or sea-weed, than the basil. This plant con-
tinues to increase in growth from the first opening
of the spring to the commencement of winter,
and is every morning covered with salineglobules
that are hard and shining, and give it the appear-
ance of being coated with dew. The husband-
men collect and make use of this salt instead of
the common kind, which it far exceeds in taste.
Each plant produces daily about half an ounce,
a phenomenon, the cause of which I am not able
satisfactorily to explain, as it grows in a very
fertile soil exhibiting no appearance of salt,
and at more than sixty miles distance from the
sea.

115

Sect. III. Herbs used in Dying. — From time
immemorial have the Chilians made use of indi-
geneous plants for dying; and such is their ex-
cellence, that they communicate the liveliest and
most durable colours to their cloths, without the
aid of any foreign production.* I have in my
possession a piece of cloth dyed in that country,
which in th rty years use has lost nothing of the
original lustre of its colours, which are blue,
yellow, red, and green, neither from exposure to
the air, nor the use of soap. The natives of the
southern provinces obtain a blue from a plant
with which I am unacquainted ; but in the Arau-
canian and the Spanish possessions they make use
of indigo diluted with fermented urine, which
gives to the substance dyed a beautiful and du-
rable colour.

Red is obtained from a species of madder
called relbun (rubia Chilensis). It usually
grow s under shrubs in sandy places ; its stalls is
nearly round, the leaves oval, pointed and whitish,
and placed by fours as in the filbert ; its flowers
are monopetalous, and divided into four parts;

* Besides the medicinal herbs, they have others for dying,
the colours of which are very durable, and do not change in
washing. Among these is the reilbon, a species of madder,
with a leaf somewhat less than the European, the root of which
is boiled in water in the same manner to extract the dye. The
poquel is a species of southern wood, of a golden colour.—
Frazier, vol. u

1%

116

the seed is contained in two little red berries,
which are united like those of the European
madder ; the root is red., runs deep into the earth,
and its lateral fibres frequently occupy a space
of many feet in circumference.

A species of agrimony (eupatorium Chilense)
known in the country by the name of contra*
ycrba, furnishes the yellow. This plant has a
violet stalk of about two feet in height, divided
by small knots, from whence issue the leaves in
pairs opposite to each other ; they are of a bright
green, three or four inches in length, narrow and
indented ; the branches are axillary, and produce
some flosculous flowers of a yellow colour, re-
sembling those of the agrimony. In the centre
of the flower a small worm is almost always dis-
coverable, whose body is composed of eleven very
distinct rings. A vellow is also obtained from
the poqael (santolinaiinctoria) a species of cress,
with long and narrow leaves resembling wild flax ;
it puts forth three or four stalks two feet in
height, striated and crowned at the top with
a yellow semi-globular flower, composed of
several small ones. The stalks furnish a green
colour.

The root of a perennial plant, called panTce
( pauke tinctoria, gen. nov. ) furnishes a fmeblack,

* This name implies, tliat it was considered as a^antidote
against poisoned arrows.— E. E.

117

and is acknowledged to be one of the most use-
ful plants in Chili. Some writers have given it
the name of bardana Chilensis, from the resem-
blance of its leaves to those of the burdock^
although its fructification is entirely different.
The root is very long, frequently five inches
thick, rough and black without, and whitewithin.
The leaves are attached to long petioles, and are
pal mated ; they are of a bright green above, and
ash-coloured beneath, frequently two feet in di-
ameter, and of a subacid taste. From the centre
of the radical leaves shoots up a single stalk,
five feet in height and three inches thick, covered
with a rough bark furnished with thorns. This
stalk has no leaves except at the top, where there
are three or four much smaller than those at the
root, surmounted by a large conical fasciculus,
or bunch, which produces the flowers and the
seed ; the flowers are white, a little inclining to
red, bell- shaped, and monopetalous ; the seed is
greenish, round, and enclosed in a capsule of the'
same form.

This plant is peculiar to moist places, and it
always perishes when not supplied with water.
It grows more luxuriantly and to a larger size in
the valleys between the Andes, where it frequently
exceeds the height which I have mentioned; in
low grounds near the sea it is only of a moderate
height. The black for dying is obtained from
the juice of the root, and it might answer equally

i3

118

well for ink, as its viscosity and the beautiful
black it acquires from time, give it all the requi-
site qualities. It is also used for tanning leather ;
but for this purpose it becomes necessary to pound
it, and the smell it exhales is so strong, that the
workmen can rarely endure it above half an hour
at a time. The stalk contains a white pith of
an acidulous taste, which the country people eat
in summer,* and the shoe-makers use the wood
for their lasts, as they believe it more durable
than any other. Another species of the panke
(panke aculis) called in the language of the
country dinacio, grows in sandy and moist places ;
the root is of the shape of a turnip, as large as
a man's arm, and of a sweetish taste; it is highly
esteemed by the inhabitants, but produces no kind
of dye. This plant is without a stalk, and puts
forth from the root a group of small leaves,
ornamented in the centre with a bouquet of
flowers similar to those of the preceding.
• The Chilians obtain a violet colour from the
berries of several shrubs ; but the culle, which
I have mentioned among the alimentary herbs,

* This plant is refrigeratory, and a decoction of the leaves
is given in fevers. The ends of the leaves, stripped of their
exterior covering, are also eaten raw, and of a sweet and very
pleasant taste. The dyers make use of the root to obtain a
black, by cutting it into small pieces, which they boil with a
certain portion of black earth, and the tanners prepare their
skins by soaking them with it in warm water. — Feuille, vol. ii.

119

produces that which is most esteemed ; it is
reduced into the form of paste like the woad,
and the dyers make use of it in the same manner.
After the first autumnal rains a small plant
springs up in the fields, called the herb of rosoli>
which appears to be of a new genus,, and which
I have denominated sassia tinctoria. It bears
three or four quadripetal flowers of a purple
hue, which are used to colour and to communi-
cate an agreeable flavour to a kind of liqueur
called the purple. A single flower, although
smaller than that of thyme, will colour five or
six pounds of liquor. The cabinet-makers
likewise make use of it to stain their work. I
am of opinion that this plant might be advan-
tageously employed in the dying of wool and
linen, particularly the latter, since merely by
tinging it with the expressed juicle of the flower,
it acquires a beautiful colour that continues a
long time. Of the same genus is the sassia
perdicaria, called by the inhabitants rimii, or
the partridge flower, from its being the favourite
food of that bird. It bears but one flower, of
a golden yellow, similar in form to that of the
panke tinctoria, which gives a beautiful appear-
ance to the meadows, where it is found in great
abundance in autumn. The Chilian names of
the months of April and of May are derived
from that of this plant, April being called unta-

i4

120

rimu, the first rimu, and May, inan-rimii, or the
second rimu.

Sect. IV. Medicinal Plants. — A knowledge
of the virtues of plants and herbs, acquired by
loug experience, forms almost the whole of the
medical science of the Chilians, particularly of
those aborigines who have never embraced Chris-
tianity. The machis and ampives, names given
to their physicians, are only skillful herborists,
who, in reality, often perform extraordinary
cures. The virtues of many plants are known
only to them, as, either from hatred to the Spa-
niards, or to enhance their own consequence,
they studiously conceal their properties : not-
withstanding which, near two hundred valuable
medicinal herbs have been discovered, besides
a great number of shrubs and trees, which at
present form an important branch of foreign
commerce, the most celebrated of which are the
cachanlahucn, the vircccira, the retamilla, the
penjeo, and the quinchamalL

The cachanlahucn (gentian cachanlahuen)
called by M. Bomare and some other authors
chancelague and chanchalagua, is not a native of
Panama, as is stated in t e Memoirs of the
Academy of Sciences for 1707 ; nor does it grow,
as M. Bomare has mentioned, in Guayaquil, but
only in Chili, from whence it has been trans-

121

ported to the other parts of America, and to
Europe. This plant is a species of the centaury,
and greatly resembles the common kind, but it
differs from it in having a rounder stalk, a less
fibrous leaf, and branches opposed to each other
in pairs placed almost horizontally. Its name
in the Chilian signifies the herb for curing the
pleurisy, in which complaint it is found very
efficacious ; it is also considered as purgative,
dissolvent, worm- destroying, an excellent febri-
fuge, and a specific for the sore throat.* The
infusion of it is extremely bitter, and in its smell
rese nbles the balsam of Peru.

The viravira (gnaphalium viravira) is a spe*
cies of houseleek very aromatic ; it is recom-
mended in intermitting fevers ; the infusion is
an excellent sudorific, and the Chilians make

• This plant is extremely bitter; an infusion of it is
aperient and sudorific ; it strengthens the stomach, destroys
worms, frequently cures intermitting fevers, and is very ser-
viceable in rheumatic complaints. — Feuilti, vol. ii.

The cachenlahuen, or the canchalagua, which is called cahen-
lagua in Chili, is very similar in its appearance to the smaller
European centaury, although not so high. A decoction of it
in warm water, in the manner of tea, is considered an excel-
lent purifier of the blood. This plant is highly celebrated in
Chili, from whence it is exported to other parts, as a febrifuge.
1 think it preferable to the European centaury, and it is consi-
dered as very efficacious in complaints of the throat. — Per-
vclly's Voyate, vol. i.

122

use of it in catarrhal complaints. The leaver
are extremely villous,, and appear to be covered
with cotton ; the flowers, which do not exceed
four, are composite and flosculated, they are of
a golden colour and placed at the top of the
branches, and the seed resembles much that of
the stoechas citrina.*

The rctamiUa (linum aquilinum) or gncmcu
lahuen, grows usually at the foot of the moun-
tains. The root is very long and perennial ; it
puts forth several branchy stalks, furnished with
small alternate lanceolated leaves ; the flowers
are yellow, with five petals, and are attached by
pairs to a common pedicle; the pystil becomes
changed into a membranaceous pentagonal cap-
sule, containing a number of little seeds. This
plant possesses the same virtues as the viravira,
and is used in the same cases.

* Among the herbs that cover the mountains there are
many that are aromatic and medicinal; of the latter, the
most in esteem with the eountry people is the cachinlagua, or
little centaury, which appears to me to he bitterer than that
of France, and, of course, more abundant in that salt which is
considered as an excellent febrifuge. The viravira is a species
of houseleek, an infusion of which was found to be very ser-
viceable by a French surgeon in the cure of tertian fevers.
There is also a species of senna perfectly resembling that of
the Levant, in the place of which it is used by the apothe-
caries of St. Jago ; it is called by the Indians unoperquen,—
Fraziers Voyage > vol. i.

123

The payco (hemiaria payco*) by which name
it is known in many modern medical works, is
also denominated tea of the third species,
although it appertains to the genus of hemiaria.
It puts forth several trailing shoots, covered with
small oval leaves, notched like a saw, and at-
tached to the stalk without a petiole. The
flowers have many stamina, and are very nu-
merous ; the seed is enclosed in a spherical cap-
sule ; the colour of the plant is a light green,
and its smell is something like that of a rotten
lime. As a medicine it promotes digestion, is
excellent in complaints of the stomach, and very
useful in the pleurisy. f

The quinchamaU (quinchamalium Chilense).
As this plant forms a new genus, I have retained
the name by which it is known in the country ;
it produces a great number of stalks of nine
inches in height, with alternate leaves similar to
those of the linaria aurea tragi ; the flowers are

* All the plauts of the genus hemiaria that are known, and
those that have an affinity to them, as the ilecebrum, the
achyrautes, &c. have their leaves entire, without being jagged
or indented ; of course this instance presents an exception
from the general rule. — Fr. Trans.

f The payco is a plant of middling height, whose leaves are
a little dentated, and have a smell like a rotten lime; a decoc-
tion of them are sudorific, and are good in pleuritic complaints.
There is likewise a great quantity of bastard rosemary, which
produces the same effects. — Fraxiers Voyage, vol. i.

124

umbellaled, yellow, and tubulous, with a border
divided into four parts like the jessamin ; the
seed is black, lenticular, and enclosed in a sphe-
rical capsule, containing three cells. The coun-
try people make use of the expressed juice, or
the decoction, as a resolutive after falls or
bruises, and it is found to be an excellent remedy
in cases of that kind.* . Feuille, whose memory
wall be ever dear to the Chilians, has furnished
an account of a great number of medicinal
plants, with very accurate delineations of them.
I shall, however, merely mention a few of the
principal ones ; as the jziclioa, the clinclin, the
guilno3 all of which are purgative plants ; the
diiica-laliuen, a good vulnerary medicine ; the
sandia-lahucn, serviceable in menstrual suppres-
sions ; the corecore, a specific for the tooth-ach ;
and the gnilhue, much esteemed as a purifier of
the blood.

Tobacco, called by the Indians putlian, is of
two kinds, the cultivated and the wild. The

* A drink made of the decoction of a certain herb called
quincbainali is esteemed as an infallible remedy for the bleed-
ing of the nose, when caused by a fall or violent blow. It is
a species of the lavender, which bears a small red and yellow
flower. Many of the medicinal herbs that we have in
France are also natural to the country ; as several species of
the maiden-hair, some of which are equal to the Canadian,
the mallows, the fox-glove, polipody, spleenwort, and some
others whose names I am unacquainted with. — Frazicr's
Poyage, vol i.

125

cultivated is subdivided into the common to-
bacco, which is equal to the best Br azilian, and
the little tobacco (nicotiana minima) whose
leaves resemble those of the Cretan dittany ; its
fructification is like that of the common kind,
but the tobacco itself is much stronger, and
more violent in its effects.

Sect. V. Grasses. — The banks of the rivers
and other moist places produce in general a great
number of reeds and rushes, many of which are
unknown to botanists. A species of the latter,
which I have called scirpus elichnarius, serves to
make wicks for candles. This rush grows to
the height of about four feet ; the stem is
is round; from the top protrude three sword-
shaped leaves, in the midst of which are four
globulous spikes or heads.

From a species of rush, produced in the
valleys of the Andes, the Araucanians manu-
facture baskets of so close a texture as to hold
water, which are employed for many domestic
purposes. Of these great numbers are sold at
the annual fairs in the Spanish provinces. But
notwithstanding I have been assured by many
tbat the plant employed in this manufacture is a
real rush, from examination I am more inclined
to believe it a species of cane, as its fibres are
woody, and the whole substance very solid.
Among those rushes whose characters are well

m

defined, the solid rush of Chili deserves to be
noticed: of this there are many kinds, compre-
hended under the general name of coliu. All
these rushes resemble the bamboo ; they have a
smooth, hard, yellowish bark'; the inside is ge-
nerally filled with a filaceous substance, a little
harder than cork; the leaves are long and very
slender, and grow upon several little branches
into which the top divides itself. The three
most remarkable kinds are the rugi, the quila,
and the rush of Valdivla.

The rugi (arundo rugi) is about as large as
the common European rush, which is also well
known in Chili. At the foot of the Andes this
plant often grows to the height of twenty feet,
but diminishes considerably as it approaches the
sea, where it scarcely attains twelve.

The quila (arundo quila) is three or four times
larger than the rugi, but its shoots are not more
than a foot distant from each other.

The rush of Valdivia (arundo Valdiviana)
has received this name from the circumstance of
its growing in the vicinity of that city ; it is of
an orange colour ; the shoots are very short, and
the joints almost touch each other. The country
people make of it cages and other little manu-
factures; they also use it for their hedges, and
sometimes to cover their houses, as it is very du-
rable when it has not been too long exposed to
moisture. The Araucanians make use of the

127

quila for their lances, and the rush of Valdivia
for canes/which are much esteemed.

Sect. VI. Climbing Plants. — Climbing plants,
or creepers, are found in great abundance in all
the thickets. Several of the most beautiful are
employed to decorate the trellices of gardens.
Among others, the copiu deserves to be noticed ;
its flowers, each of which is composed of six
petals, three inches in length, are of the most
beautiful crimson, spotted within with white.
This plant climbs up the highest trees ; its
leaves are disposed by threes, and are of a beau-
tiful green, and an oval shape ; the fruit is an
inch in diameter, cylindrical, of a dull yellow,
and contains a white tender pulp of a sweet and
pleasant taste. In Chili is likewise found the
passion-flower (passiflora tiliae folia) the cara-
cal, the sarsaparilla, the alstroemeria salsilla,
and four or five other species of those vines
called by- the French Manes, and by the inhabit-
ants voqui. One of the most useful is the cogul
(dolichos funarius). The vine is round, and
ligneous, and of the size of pack-thread, and
its flowers resemble those of the copiu. It
climbs upon the trees like the ivy, but without
attaching itself to them. When it reaches the
top of a tree, it descends from it perpendicularly,
and as it continues to grow extends itself from

tree to tree, until at length it. offers to (he eye a
confused tissue, exhibiting some resemblance to
the ii p. This singular pi

produces a leguminous flower of a purple co-
lour ; its pod is an inch thick, and about a ft ot
and a half long; it contains an oilv pulp of a
sweet and von agreeable taste, and five seeds re-
sembling those of the cotton. Tl which
is much tougher and more flexible than osier.
serves for many purposes, and can be procured
from one to two hundred fathoms in length, as
when it descends it docs net take root in the
earth, like another plant analagous to it, which
is a native of the torrid zone. The husband-
men, before thev make use oC this \ me, pass it
lightly through the flames, which not only
loosens the bark, but at the same time renders it
more flexible They employ it both in making-
large baskets, and as wattling for their hedges ;
it is sometimes even used in cables for \
which wear better thai made of be p, as
thev are capable of resist i. :re for a Ion
time. In the Archipelago of Chiloe is another
plant called pepoi, in some r mg
the coffiil. which, the h of those islands
use as ropes for their periaugres. The voqtu, or
vocJU, described bv i commonly
grows in the woods of the maritime provi.
of a distinct species, as is the larm of the

129

same author, the flower of which is an inch in
length, and is divided into five equal lobes of a
beautiful red.

Sect. VII. Shrubs. — In my catalogue of the
plants of Chili I have noticed more than fifty-
three indigenous shrubs ; but I am convinced, if
an opportunity had been afforded me of ex-
ploring a greater extent of country, that I might
have more than doubled that number. Every
province or district offers some variety in this
class of vegetables of more or less utility to the
inhabitants.

• The bark and leaves of the shrubs called deu,
thilco and utliiu, serve to dye black. The berries
of the tara (poinciana spinosa) and of the mayu,
furnish a black juice which is a good substitute
for ink. The guiacum, which in Chili never ac-
quires the size of a tree, is employed in turner v.
The cabinet-makers use, for inlaying, the wood
of several shrubs whose appropriate names I am
unacquainted with, but which, from their hard-
ness, are generally called ebony wood. The
wild rosemary and several other resinous shrubs,
are used as fuel in the furnaces for melting-
copper. The wood of the colliguay (colliguaja,
gen. nov.) when burnt, exhales a very agreeable
smell like roses, without producing the least iu-
convenience.

The incense is not inferior to that brought

vol. i. s.

130

from Arabia, and is obtained from a shrub that
grows in the province of Coquimbo, to which I
have given the name of thuraria, gen. nov. It
usually grows to the height of four feet ; the
trunk is of an ash colour, from whence proceed
a great number of branches loaded with oval
leaves that are alternate, four inches long, rough,
very succulent, and of a pale yellow ; the flow-
ers are small, funnel-shaped, and of a light
green; the capsule is spherical and divided into
two cells, containing as many elongated seeds of
a brown colour. In -the summer the incense
exudes through tlie pores of the bark around
the limbs in the form of little drops or tears, and
is collected in great quantities in the autumn,
when the leaves begin to fall. The globules are
hard, white, transparent and shining, and have a
bitter taste and a highly aromatic smell. In the
hills near Valparaiso is found a species of sun-
flower with a ligneous trunk, which produces a
resinous substance resembling incense.

The trunk of the puya (puya, ^en. nov. ) is
used for cork throughout Chili. This shrub
has a great resemblance to the anana. From its
root issue three or four monstrous shoots of a
conical form, as large as a man's body, but not
exceeding twenty inches in length; these are
covered with a spongy bark, disposed in the
manner of scales ; from the top of these shoots
or trunks proceed the leaves ; these are four feet

13i

long, furnished at the sides witfi crooked
prickles, perfectly similar to those of the anana ;
from the centre of the leaves rises a stalk, nine
feet in length, and three inches in diameter, co-
vered with a very hard green bark, enclosing a
whitish spungy substance resembling cork. At
the top the stalk is divided into a number of
branches covered with leaves, much smaller
than those of the root, and with yellow flowers,
four inches long, composed of six irregular
petals, which form together a large and beauti-
ful pyramid. This singular vegetable produces
no other fruit than a triangular capsule, con-
taining a great number of very small black
seeds. The nectaries of the flowers are always
filled with honey, which is eagerly sought after
by the children. The Araucanian provinces
furnish several varieties of this plant, from
whence the inhabitants collect great quantities
of honey.

Besides the kali of Alicant (salsosa kali) which
grows in great abundance on all the marshes of
the sea shore, a climbing shrub is found on the
coast of Coquimbo, from whence the soap-
boilers obtain large quantities of alkaline salt.

Chili produces seven species of the myrtle, all
estimable for their beauty and fragrance. But
the most valuable is the one called by the In-
dians iigni, and by the Spaniards murtilla. The
French, who found it in the Malouine island?,

k3

132

have given to this shrub the name of lucet
muscat * It usually grows to the height of four
feet, and resembles much the myrtle of Ta-
rentum, its branches and leaves being placed
opposite each other in pairs ; the flowers are
white, have five petals, and produce a round or
red berry, the size of a small prune, marked
with four green points like the pomegranate.
This fruit contains several seeds that are flat
and brown, and has a very pleasant aromatic
smell, perceptible at a great distance. The
inhabitants obtain from it a very agreeable odo-
riferous liquor, which is preferred by foreigners
to the best muscat. It requires a long time to
ferment, but, when once clarified, is very clear,
and has a delicious taste. Before the arrival of
the Spaniards and the introduction of the grape,
the natives used to prepare vinous liquors from
several kinds of shrubs, at present neglected ;
among these were two or three species of the
Indian fig, or opuntia, called by the Chilians
tuna, whose fruit is very fine, and as large as
the best European figs.

A great number of shrubs, from time inime-

* Its fruit is of a beautiful appearance and very pleasant
taste; by being put into brandy uitb a little sugar, it forms a
rery delicious liquor, which has in a slight degree the smell
of arnber and of musk, by no means disagreeable even to
those who dislike those perfumes. — Vernetty's Voyagt,
▼ol. ii.

133

morial, have been employed as efficacious me-
dicines by the physicians of the country. Among
these is the cullen fpsoralea glandulosa) well
known in Europe; it is considered as a powerful
vermifuge, and one of the best stomachics ; the
leaves are used in infusion, and from their
aromatic taste are by many preferred to tea, and
occasionally serve as a substitute for it. This
shrub is indigenous to Chili, where it grows
spontaneously, and frequently attains the height
of a common sized tree. There is another va-
riety which is called the yellow cullen, from the
colour of its leaves, which, like those of the
other, are disposed by threes, but are very thin
and crisped, and, conglomerating towards the
end of the limbs, form at the top of the tree a
thick globular tuft that frequently causes the
branches to bend. Its flowers, like those of the
other species, are leguminous, the seed solitary
and the leaves of both are Vulnerary and very
balsamic.*

* The albaquilla, in Indian cullen, is a shrub whose leave?
emit an, odour like that of the sweet basil, aud produce a
balsam of great efficacy in the cure of wounds, as I witnessed
in the case of an Indian at Irequiu, who had received a verv
deep one in his neck, and I have also experienced the beneficial
effects of it myself. The flower is large, of a pale violet, and
disposed upon spikes, and is one of that species comprehended,
in the class of the leguminous. Another shrub, called harillo,
is employed for the same purpose. This is different from the
haritto of Tucuman, and its leaves, which are verv sanal*

R 3

134

The guaicuru (plegorhiza guaicuru, gen.
nov. ) grows in the northern prov inces. The root
is rough and of a red colour, and is used as a
specific for all kinds of wounds ; it puts forth a
great number of leaves resembling those of the
myrtle, in the centre of which rises a stem of
about six inches in height, divided at the top
into many branches covered with leaves less than
the radical, and very small bell-shaped flowers
arranged in an umbellate order. Pernetty, in
his Vo\age to the Malouine Islands, observes,
that this plant, particularly the root, is one of
the most powerful vegetable astringents known,
and is likewise very excellent for the cure of
ulcers and scrophulous complaints, and of great
service in the dysentery — properties ascertained
by the daily experience of the Chilians.

In the province of Quillota is a species of the
acacia, or mhnosa, called by the Spaniards ja-
rilla, which affords a balsam of great efficacy in
healing wounds. This balsam exudes from the
branches and the leaves, and renders them viscous
to the touch ; it exhales a very agreeable odour
which is perceptible at a great distance. The
jarilla grows to about five feet ; the leaves are
winged and notched at the edges ; the flowers
are yellow and divided into five petals, and

emit a strong smell something like that of honey, and are so
replete with balsam that they appear to be covered with it.—
Frazier's Voyage, vol. i.

135

produce a small berry, containing two or three
kidney-shaped seeds.

The expressed juice of the palqui (cestrum
nocturnum) is considered as the best known re-
medy for inflammatory fevers ; it is bitter and
of an unpleasant taste, but very cool and re-
freshing. The leaves of this shrub were for-
merly considered by the husbandmen as poison-
ous to cattle, but modern experiments have
proved the unfoundedness of this opinion. In
its appearance and smell the palqui resembles the
elder, but the leaves are single, alternate and ob-
long ; the flowers are corymbic, yellow, and
like those of the jessamin, and the berries oval
and of a purple colour. The wood is very brit-
tle, but is preferred to any other by the Indians
for the purpose of producing fire by friction ac-
cording to their custom. This is done by turning
rapidly between their hands a small stick of this
wood in a hole made in another piece of the same
kind.

Among the shrubs used for medicinal purposes
is also the cassia sena, which is in no way differ-
ent from that of the Levant. It grows in abun-
dance near the source of the river Maypo. Sage
is likewise found in many places, particularly in
the low grounds near the sea.

Sect. VIII. Trees.— The forests of Chili
offer a great variety of trees, the most of which

k4

136

never lose their foliage. Those kinds that are
known, amount to ninety-seven, and of these only
thirteen shed their leaves. Among the former
are many that are remarkable for their fragrance,*
and are well deserving cultivation. Those that
are similar or vary but little from the European
trees, or which are to be met with in almost all
botanical gardens, I shall merely enumerate, re-
serving my descriptions for such as are less
known, or distinguishable for some peculiarity.

The valleys of the Andes produce naturally
the white cedar and the red, called alerces, the
cypress, the pine, and the pellinos, which is a
species of oak. All these trees grow to a great

* The woods are full of aromatic shrubs ; such as several
kinds of myrtle, a species of laurel whose leaves are of the
smell of saffron, but more pleasant ; the boldu, the leaves of
which have the odour of incense, and the bark a biting taste
something like that of cinnamon ; it is a different tree, howr
ever, from that called the cinnamon, which produces a bark
similar to that of the East Indies. The leaves of the boldu
are like those of the greater laurel, but rather larger. There
is also another tree called peumo, a decoction of the bark of
which is very beneficial hi the dropsy. The fruit is red, and
resembles an olive, and the wood is very proper for ship-
building ; but the best tree for this purpose is a species of
evergreen oak, very hard and durable, whose bark is a cork
equal to that of the cork tree. On the shores of the river
¥lio-bio are great quantities of cedar suitable for building, and
excellent for spars. The bamboo reed is likewise very com-
mon ia every part of the country. — Frazier's Voyage, vol. u

137'

height and size, but none of them can compare
in that respect with the red* cedar, which, in
the Archipelago of Chiloe, grows so large, that
a single tree will frequently furnish from six to
eiglit hundred boards of twenty feet in length.

In the other parts of Chili are found the
willow, the inolle, the Peruvian taper or cherry ^
the wild orange, the jloripondio, the white cin-
namon, the carob tree, the maqui a species of
cornel, the luma a species of myrtle, the mul-
berry, the chirimoya, and the tamarind. The
island of Juan Fernandes produces the red,
yellow, and white sandal, the yellow wood, or
fagus lutea, and a tree whose genus I am unac-
quainted with, that produces a species of pepper
inferior to that of the East Indies.

The tjieige (salix Chilensis) differs from the
European willow in its leaves, which are entire,
slender, and of a yellowish green. This tree
yields annually a great quantity of manna; the
country people also make use of the bark,
which they believe possesses a highly febrifugal
quality.

Of the molle there are two kinds, the common

* On my passage from Chili to Europe I observed that the
water which was in casks made of the red cedar, kept sweet
for a much longer time than that in the others. This water
had acquired a red tinge, but the taste was not in the least
changed, and it appeared to be as fresh as if just taken from
the fountain.

138

(schinus mollis) which is usually found in the
marshes, and another called huigan (schinus
huigan). The last grows naturally in any soil,
and its leaves are very small. The inhabitants
prepare from the berries of these trees a kind
of red wine of an agreeable flavour but very
heating.*

The Peruvian taper, called in Chili quisco, is
of two kinds, the common (cactus Peruvianus)
and that of Coquimbo (cactus Coquimbanus)
the thorns of which are eight inches long, and
are used by the women for knitting-needles.

The floripondio ( datura aborea) is a tree much
esteemed for its beauty and the fragrance of its
flowers, which diffuse an ambery odour to a
great distance. f The trunk grows to the height
of twelve feet, but rarely exceeds six inches in
diameter, and is pithy within. The branches

* The Indians prepare a beverage from themolleas pleasant
and as strong as wine, if not more so, and make use of the
solution of the gum as a purgative medicine. The sap, pro-
cured by making an incision in the bark, is said to be a cure
lor films, and a liquor obtained from the pith of the young
shoots, excellent for clearing and strengthening the eyes.
The fishermen of Coucon and Valparaiso boil (he bark, which
produces a dve of the colour of burnt coffee, with which they
>taia their nets. — Frazier's Voyage, vol. i.

t We have no tree in Europe that equals in beauty the
floripondio. When in blossom it far exceeds in fragrance any
of our trees, and one of tliem is sufficient to perfume a whole
garden. — Feuille, vol. ii.

139

unite at the top and form a spherical crown,
which produces a most delightful effect. The
leaves are woolly and in the form of an elon-
gated heart eight or ten inches in length, by three
in breadth ; the flowers are turned back in the
form of a funnel, and are divided into five
pointed lobes ; they are white, from eight to ten
inches long, and three in breadth. The fruit is
nearly round, of the size of an orange, and co-
vered with a greenish rind, containing a number
of oval seeds, but it is never eaten.

The wild orange tree (citrus Chilensis) is dis-
tinguished from the cultivated by its sessile
leaves, and its fruit, which is oval and not larger
than a filbert, but has the taste of a common
orange. This tree frequently grows to a con-
siderable height, and the wood is much esteem-
ed by turners on account of its beautiful yellow
colour.

The white cinnamon, called by the Chilians
l)oigliey and the Spaniards canello, may be found
in all the thickets of Chili. It is commonly
known by the name of Winter's cinnamon, from
its being first introduced into Europe by Captain
Winter.* The trunk of this tree frequently

* The boighe of Chili, or canello of the Spaniards, is not
the tree which furnishes the white cinnamon of merchants, and,
of course, not the same with that described by Linnaeus under
the name of winteriana canella. The boighe of Chili is a real

140

rises to the height of fifty feet ; the branches
are placed opposite each other by fours, in the ^
form of a cross ; the leaves are large, alternate,
and like those of the laurel ; the flowers are
white, quadripetal, and very odoriferous ; the
berries oval, asd of a changeable black and blue.
Like the cinnamon of Ceylon, this tree produces
two larks ; the exterior of a greenish brown,
the other, when first taken from the tree, is of a
dirty white, but when dry, becomes of the colour
of the true cinnamon, which it very much re-
sembles in taste, and in Feuille's opinion might
serve as a succedaneum for it.* I am of the
same sentiment, particularly if proper attention
wer^ paid to the cultivation of it, which would
probably tend to correct that sharp taste which
renders it unpleasant. The natives employ the
timber for building, but make no use of the bark.
The Araucanians from time immemorial have
regarded the boighe as a sacred tree; in their
religious ceremonies they carry branches of it in
their hands, and when they conclude a peace,
they present them in token of amity and alliance,

drymis, and appears to be the same with that described by
the Chevalier de la Mark, under the name of drymis punctata.
■— Fr. Trans.

* The baik of the boighe may be applied to the same
uses as the cinnamon; its smell is similar, and it acquires tht
same colour when it is dried.— FeuilU, vol. hi.

4

141

as the ancient nations of Europe did those of the
olive.

The carol) tree of Chili (ceratonia Chilensis)
is distinguished from that of Europe (silir-ua
Europea) by its thorns, which are usually four
inches long, and so hard that they are used by
the country people instead of nails. Its pod re-
sembles that of the European carob.

The maqui ( cornus Chilensis) does not usually
exceed ten or twelve feet in height, and the wood
is too brittle for use. The leaves are opposite,
heart-shaped, denticulated., juicy, and three
inches long ; the (lowers are white, with four
petals, and the berries purple. The Indians eat
these berries or wild grapes, which are very
sweet, and also prepare from them a beverage
called theca. The juice of the leaves is esteem-
ed a specific in the sore throat, and I am con-
vinced of its efficacy from my own experience.
There is a variety of this tree which bears a
white berry.

The luma (myrtus luma) is distinguishable
from the common myrtle by its round leaves and
its height, which is frequently forty feet. Its
wood is the best of any known for the use of
coach-makers, and large quantities of it are anT
nually exported to Peru for that purpose. The
Indians make from the berries a pleasant wine,
in high repute as a stomachic. There is like-
wise auothcr species of lofty myrtle (myrtus

142

maxima) which grows in the same places with
the Iuma, and frequently to the height of seventy
feet; the wood of this is also very valuable.

Among those trees, which produce the most
useful woods, besides the cedars already men-
tioned, are the caven, the quilled, the tithi, the
mayten, and the temu.

The caven (mimosa caven) called by the Spa-
niards espino, resembles much the accacia folio
scorpiodis leguminosa of Egypt. The trunk is
winding and solid; the bark black and filled
with cracks ; the branches scattered and furnish-
ed with thorns ; the leaves disposed in pairs on a
common footstalk, and two inches in length ;
the flowers are flosculous and yellow, and form
around bouquet like those of the acacia nilotica.
but differ in being attached without peduncles to
the boughs, which they completely cover, and
their odour is so very fragrant that they are de-
nominated aromas. The pod is from three to
four inches long; it is cylindrical, of a dark
brown, and contains many oval seeds marked
with a yellow stripe ; these are enveloped in an
astringent mucilage, from which a very good
ink is made. The caven grows spontaneously
in all the midland provinces, chiefly between the
24th and 37th degrees of latitude, where its
wood serves as fuel. It is more natural to the
richest soils, and frequently grows to the height
of an oak. The wood is hard and compact, of

143

a dark brown veined with black and yellow,
receives an excellent polish, and is used by
several kinds of artisans for the handles of their
tools.

The quillai (quillaja saponaria, gen. nov.*)
derives its name from the Chilian word quillcan,
to wash. The trunk of this tree exceeds the
middle height,, and is covered with a thick bark
of a greyish ash colour ; it divides itself at the
top into two or three branches, which produce
leaves like those of the ever-green oak ; its
flowers are also furnished with stamina, but the
seed is enclosed in a quadrangular capsule. The
wood of the quillai is very hard, and does not
easily split, for which reason the country people
make use of it for stirrups. But what renders
this tree really valuable is the bark, which, when
pulverized and mixed with a certain quantity of
water, foams like soap, and is efficacious in
cleansing woollens and other kinds of cloth. A
very considerable commerce is carried on with
this bark; the Peruvians particularly import
every year great quantities of it.

The Hthi (laurus caustica) a species of middle
sized laurel, is scattered over the whole country,

* The quillai is a tree whose leaves resemble those of the
ever-green oak. The bark ferments in water like soap, and
is preferable to it for the washing of woollen cloth, but is apt
to give linen a yellowish hue.— Frazicr's Voyage, vol. i.

14*

Its leaves are oval, wrinkled, an inch in length,
and of a dark green ; the flowers, though much
smaller, and the fruit resemble those of the
common laurel. The effluvium from this tree,
especially in summer,, produces painful pustules
and swellings on the hands and faces of those
who stop beneath its shade. This effect is various,
however, with various persons : there are some
who are very little, if at all, incommoded by it,
while others, who merely pass by the tree, are
severely affected ; though never attended with
fatal consequences, it is nevertheless very trouble-
some. Great precaution is requisite in cutting
the tree, as its viscous juice is extremely caustic ;
but when dry, the wood loses all its injurious
qualities, and is employed for building. Its
colour is a handsome red, veined with brown, and
it acquires, after having been for some time
under water, a very great degree of hardness,
which might render it very useful in ship build-
ing.* There is another large tree which I have
reason to believe is truly poisonous ; it usually
grows in the vicinity of the sea, is called the

• The lithi is a tree very proper for building ships ; it is
cut with great care when it is green, but when dry, particu-
larly if it has been for some time under water, the wood
becomes almost as hard as iron. It is employed by the natives
in building their houses. Its colour when first cut is white,
but when it is dried and seasoned it changes to a very hand-
some red.— Feuiltt's Journ,

145

haiku, and is one of the most beautiful trees of
Chili. The physicians, however, in critical
cases, direct the buds to be taken in powder not
exceeding half a scruple, as a powerful emetic.
The sh\) of this tree is a yellow inclining to green,
but is not lacteous. Its flowers and fructifica-
tion I shall not pretend to describe, never having
seen it in a flowering state.

The mat/ten (raaytenus boaria, gen. now) is
a beautiful tree, and always retains its foliage,
It grows in the same places with the lithi, and is
an antidote to its poison. It is rarely more than
thirty feet high; its branches, which are nume-
rous, and commence at the height of eight feet
from the root, form a very beautiful top ; the
leaves are denticulated and pointed, about two
inches in length, and of a brilliant green ; the
flowers are monopetalous, bell-shaped, and of a
purple hue, but so small as not to be distinguish
able at a little distance. These flowers entirelv
cover the young shoots, and are succeeded by a
small round capsule containing a single black
seed. The wood is very hard, and of an orange
colour spotted with red and green. The cattle
are very fond of the leaves, and will forsake any
herbage for them ; and were it not for the
hedges and ditches with which the inhabitants
surround the young trees, the species would pro-
bably before this time have been destroyed.

The temo (tenuis moscata, gen. nov.) is a tree

VOL. I. l

146

of very thick foliage. The leaves are alternate,
oval, smooth, and of a bright green. There are
two varieties of this tree, distinguished by their
yellow or white flowers, which are divided into
eighteen narrow petals of two or three inches in
length. The seeds resemble coffee, and are not
unlike it in taste, but have a certain bitterness
that renders them unpleasant. The bark is
yellow, the wood grey, very hard, and much
used in various manufactures.

The patagua (cinodendron patagua, gen. nov.)
is much valued for its flowers, which are small,
but resemble in shape and smell the lily. The
leaves are placed opposite in pairs, lanceolated,
serrated, and of a bright green. The trunk fre-
quently grows to such a size that four men can
scarcely encircle it with their arms ; the wood is .
white and easily wrought, but held in little esti-
mation.

Chili, in comparison with those countries in
America situated between the tropics, produces
but few trees whose fruits are edible ; the prin-
cipal of those are the coconut, the pehuefi, the
gevuiti, the pcumo, and the lucuma.

In the provinces of Quillota, Calchagua, and
Maiile are large forests of the coconut tree
(palma Chilensis). This species differs from
the others of the same genus in the size of its
fruit, which does not usually exceed that of a
walnut. The trunk is about the height and

147

diameter of a date tree, and its growth is very
slow ; it is without branches and perfectly cy-
lindrical, but when young is covered with the
footstalks of leaves, which fall off as the tree in-
creases in size. The leaves and flowers are ana-
logous to those of the palm ; the last are mo-
noical, and disposed in four clusters which hang
around the tree. When in the bud they are en-
closed within a spath, or woody sheath, which
opens as the flower expands. When the fruit
begins to form, the spath separates itself into two
hemispherical parts of about three feet long by
two broad. Each of these bunches produces
more than a thousand Coconuts, and nothing can
be more beautiful than to see one of these trees
covered with fruit, shaded by the upper branches
which bend over in the form of an arch.

The fruit, like the tropical coconut, has two
coverings ; the outer is hard externally and of
a green colour, which gradually changes into a
yellow, and the inside is filled with a kind of
filaceous wool ; the interior shell is woody,
smooth and round, and so hard that it would be
difficult for the nut to germinate were it not for
the two stems which are attached to the upper
part of the shell, and separated from the nut
only by a thin pellicle. The kernel is spherical,
a little hollow in the middle, white, and of a
very agreeable taste, and when fresh, contains a
milky liquor which is pleasant and refrigeratory.
t % .

148

A great number of these nuts are exported ever*
year to Peru., where they are highly esteemed.
The oil obtained from thein by expression is well
tasted and much used. The country people
make use of the sheaths as bags for little aiticles
of dress, and with the leaves manufacture baskets
and thatch their cabins. The buds, if cut when
young, yield great quantities of sap, which is
thick, and furnishes a more agreeable sirup than
that of the sugar cane ; but the tree commonly
dies after this operation.

The date is found in the province of Copiapo ;
but I know not whether it is indigenous or wa*#
brought thither from some other place. The
islands of Juan Fernandez produce a species of
palm called clionta. The trunk, like that of
most other palms, is hollow, and the wood is
black and as hard as ebony. Another tree,
which I have called ampclo musa, resembles the
palm, and grows in great quantities in the marshes
of Maule ; the leaves proceed directly from
the top of the trunk, aud are large and green
like those of the banana ; the fruit is disposed in
four clusters like those of the vine, and the re-
semblance is so perfect, that were it not for a
sharp and astringent taste, it might readily be
mistaken for a grape.

The pehuen (pintig Araucana) called by the
Spaniards pino de la tier r a, resembles the fir more
lhan the pine, although in some respects it. differs

149

from both. It is the most beautiful of the trees
of Chili, and grows spontaneously in the Arau-
canian provinces, but is cultivated in all other
parts of the country, and, from iH properties,
partakes of the nature of the pine, the chesnut,
and the frankincense. The trunk is frequently
eighty feet in height, and its usual circumference
is eight ; the wood is very resinous, and of a
yellowish brown, and the bark smooth and green-
ish ; the tree as it increases in height shedding all
the little branches and leaves with which it is
covered while young. When it attains the half
of its growth it puts forth, in a horizontal di-
rection, four durable limbs opposite to each other
in the form of a cross ; the four following
branches are disposed in the same manner but
shorter, and at the distance of four or five feet
from the first ; the others decrease in lens-th
in proportion as they approach the top, which
terminates in a point. The extremities of all
these branches incline perpendicularly, and gixe
to the tree the form of a quadrangular pyramid.
This pyramidal shape becomes still more perfect
from the number of little boughs which project
laterally from the principal branches in a cruci-
form manner, decreasing gradually from the
common axis. The. principal branches as well
as the boughs, are set round with st'ff leaves
enchased in each other, of about three inches
long by one broad ; these arc heart-shaped, con-

l3

150

vex above, very shining, and so hard that they
appear like wood. The flower is amentaceous or
conical, and perfectly resembles that of the pine ;
the fruit is of the size of a man's head ; it is
smooth, spherical, ligneous, suspended to a very
short pedicle, and divided within by two thin shells
into several cells, which contain the kernels in
pairs; the kernels are about two inches in length
and as large as the little finger, of a conical
form, a transparent white, and covered with a
pellicle like that of the chesnut, which they re-
semble in taste, and, though rather harder, are*
eaten in the same manner. The gum exudes,
through the bark, is yellowish, and its odour
very pleasant. f

* Some of the Quarani tribes reduce them to a flour, and
in that state preserve them as food. (Coment. de Cabeze de
Vaca). In Chile and to the south they are preserved by boil-
ing, aud prepared in this manner, says Falkner, they have
something of a mealiness, and taste very like a boiled
almond, but not so oily. — E. E.

t This is the dombey of Chili of M. de la Mark. This tree
is not a pine, as M. Molina supposes; it is a new genus, well
defined by its fructification, and clearly distinguishable from
any of those that are known. In fact, besides its flowers
being dicecial, they have this very singular discrimination, that
they grow upon catkins, with no other pericarpiiim than what
is produced by the generative organs — the forked append^es
that terminate the props of the stamina forming the pericarpium
of the male catkin, and the two valves of each stigma that of
the female.

151

The geviiin (gevuina avellina, gen. nov.)
called by the Spaniards avellano, or the hazle,
from the appearance of its fruit, grows to a
middle height in marshes and in the valleys of
the Andes. Its leaves are winged and terminated
with one dissimilar like those of the ash, but the
leaflets are rounder, more solid, slightly denticu-
lated, and disposed by four or five couple upon
a common pedicle. The flowers are white,
quadripetal, and attached by pairs to a spike
which proceeds from the hollow part of the
leaves. The fruit is round, nine lines in diame-
ter, and covered with a coriaceous shell, which
is at first green, afterwards becomes yellow, and
at length black ; the kernel is divided into two
lobes, and in taste resembles the European
walnut.

Thepeumo (peumus, gen. nov.) is a tree con-
sisting of four very different species, and a great
number of varieties; all of these are tall and
covered with stiff aromatic leaves; the fruit is
like the olive, but a little smaller, having a ker-

The fruit is also singular; it consists of large oval rounded
cones, composed of a great number of elongated seeds, fixed
naked around one common axis. These seeds, of course, are
not to be found in pairs in the hollow of each scale of the cone
as in the pine, since that of the dombeya has no scales. — Ft.
Tans.

The Spaniards call the resin of this tree incense, and use it
as such. — E. E. Falkner.

l4

152

nel more or less hard, according to the species.
The flowers are white or of a rose colour, with
six petals shorter than the calyx. The first spe-
cies (peumus rubra) has alternate leaves, oval,
petiolated, entire and large, like those of the
hornbeam, and bears a red fruit ; the second
(peumus alba) has denticulated leaves and a,
white fruit; the third (peumus mammosa) has
sessile leaves in shape of a heart, and the fruit is
terminated by a hind of nipple ; the fourth
(peumus boldus) bears oval haves, placed op-
posite in pairs, about four inches in length,
woolly beneath, and of a dark green. The fruit
of this last species is smaller than that of the
others and almost round, and the kernel so hard
that the inhabitants make their rosaries of it.
They also give to the fruit the name of boldo,
and use the shells to perfume the vessels in which
they put their wine. The fruits of the three
first kinds are eaten ; to prepare them for that
purpose they are merely dipped in warm water,
as a greater degree of heat would burn and
render them bitter. The interior pulp is white,
buttery, and of an agreeable taste, and the
kernel contains much oil, which might be used
both for lamps and for eating. The bark serve.'!
for tanning leather, and is also used in dying.

The lucuma (lucuma, gen.'nov. ) comprehends
five different species and many varieties, all of
oa large trees, with stiff leaves resembling the
3

153

laurel. The flowers Lave a great number of
stamina, and produce a fruit, which, in size and
taste, has some similarity to the peach ; the out-
side skm is yellowish and the pulp sweet, and
usually contains one or two kernels of an irre-
gular shape. Two kinds of lucuma are cul-
tivated— the lucuma hi f era and the turbinate.
The bifera bears twice a year, early in summer
and in autumn ; but the autumnal fruits alone
produce kernels ; these are two, and have the
appearance of chesnuts. The fruit is round and
a little sloped, but less so than that of the tur-
binata, which has the form of a whipping-top.
Notwithstanding both these fruits ripen upon
the tree, it is necessary to keep them some time
in straws, which ameliorates them and corrects
their natural roughness, and by this means they
acquire that pleasant taste which renders them
so much esteemed.

Of the wild lucuma three species are known
in Chili by the names of bcllota, keule, and
ehagnar.

The beilota (lucuma Valparaidisea) grows in
great quantities in the environs of Valparaiso,
and is distinguished from the others by its leaves,
which are opposite, and its round or oval fruit,
which is usually bitter.

The keule (lucuma keule) which frequently
grows to the height of a hundred feet, has oval
leaves about six inches long and of a brilliant

154

green. This tree usually bears a great quantity
o, fruit which is perfectly round and of a shining
y How, forming a fine contrast with the beautiful
verdure of the foliage.

The chattier (lucuma spinosa) has a trunk
about thirty feet high ; the branches are thorny,
the iea es oval and sessile, and the fruit resembles
that of the keule, but has a more agreeable taste.
The wood is hard, of a yellow colour, and much
vaiucc y cabinet-makers.

lae different kinds of pulse, flowers, garden
heibs, vines, ana fruit .rees, which the Spaniards
have brought from Europe, thrive as well in
Chili hs in their native country.*

The melons, of which there are many kinds,
are almost always long ; the rind is very thin,

* Each house has a garden in which may be found all kinds
of fruit trees, which produce every year such abundance of fruit
that the inhabitants pluck off a great part of it when it first
forms, as otherwise it would not only endanger breaking the
limbs, hut would never come to maturity. The fruits arc not
inferior in quality to those of Europe, except the chesnut which
is much less, but in place of this there are many other kinds
of fruit unknown in our climate. — Feuille, vol. ii.

All the houses in Coquimbo have large gardens surrounded
with walls, in which, in their season, are produced apples,
pears, prunes, delicious cherries, nuts, almonds, olives, lemons,
oranges, pomegranates, figs, grapes, and many other fruits,
peculiar to the country, uot known in Europe. All these
fruit? are very odoriferous, as I have myself experienced.-—
Feuille, vol.ii.

155

and the flavour excellent. Among" them the
musk melon and the scritti, two marked and
constant varieties, are preferred to any other j
and I have seen many that were two feet in length.
The melons begin to ripen in the month of De-
cember, and continue until the end of May.
These last, which I have called winter melons
(invernizi) are green, and will keep perfectly
well during the winter if they are placed in a
situation where the air may have free access to
them.

The inhabitants cultivate seven species of
water melons of an excellent kind, but the most
esteemed is that called pellaia^ which has a thin
rind like the skin of an apple, This fruit is a
native of Jamaica, from whence the Spaniards
imported it into Europe, but it is probable that
the cuch^gnd, which is of the same species of
an excellent flavour, was cultivated in Chili long
before the arrival of the Spaniards.

I have already spoken of the great fertility of
the soil in the production of different kinds of
grain ; and shall merely observe in this place
that the species of wheat most generally cul-
tivated is one without beard, called mutica ; this
is sowed in August, and the crop reaped in De-
cember. Hemp and flax grow extremely well in
Chili; but as the exportation of it is rigorously
prohibited, the inhabitants raise no more than is
wanted for internal consumption.
4

156

The vine produces wonderfully, and the soil
appears to be peculiarly favourable to it, as the
thickets are filled with wild vines (the seeds
having been carried thither by birds) from whose
grapes the country people obtain a very good
wine ; but the cultivated vines produce delicious
grapes of the best quality. From the borders
of Peru to the river of Maule, the mode of cul-
tivating the vines is by raising the sets to the
height of three or four feet by means of props
or forked stakes which support them ; but
beyond that river they are planted upon the de-
clivities of hills, and reclined on the ground.
The grapes in the highest estimation are those
that grow upon the shores of the Itata. The
wine obtained from them is the best in Chili ; it
is called Conception wine, and is usually red, of
a good body, an excellent flavour, and not in-
ferior to the first wines in Europe.* A great
quantity of this wine is annually exported to
Peru, but it loses much of its pleasant flavour
from being put into casks that are daubed over
oh the inside with a kind of mineral pitch.

* The country is full of hills, with fine vineyards on their
tops, which produce very excellent wiues. — Feuiltt, vol. ii.

The wines of St. Jago are of several kinds, and although
inferior to those of Conception, are very well tasted, and of
a good body. — American Gazetteer; article Chili.

That wine which is exported from Chili to Paraguay, is
thick, and sweet, but has a certain harshness. — E. E.

Dobrixhojfer, T, 2. p. 22g.

157

The muscadel wine is., acording to Ulloa, of
as good a quality as the hest of Spain.* These
wines are in general very strong, and great quan-
tities are used for distilling brandy. The vintage
takes place in the months of April and May.
About twenty vears since some vines of a black
muscadel grape, of an excellent quality, were
discovered in the valleys of the Andes, and from
thence transplanted into the other provinces. As
these valleys hud never been inhabited, and until
that time no such grape had been known in any
other part of the country, it is difficult to deter-
mine whether it is a native of Chili or brought
from Europe, It has besides some peculiarities
that distinguish it, as the leaves being more in-
dented, and the clusters perfectly conical, while
the grapes grow so close to each other as to render
it impossible to detach one without crushing
several.

All the European fruit trees yield abundantly,
and their fruit is as line in Chili as in their native
country. f The greater part are also remarkable

* Chili has in no less abundance grapes of various kinds,
and among them those which produce a wine more highly
valued in Peru than any other; it is mostly red, and a mus-
cadel is also made, which in its smeil and the deliciousness of
its taste surpasses any kind known in Spain. — Ulloa's Voyage.

f The plain of Quillota is very pleasant. We were there at
the time of the carnival, which occurs in that country in the
beginning of autumn, and were much surprised to see a great

158

for their numbers and the increase of their size.
In the southern provinces are forests of apple and
quince trees from three to four leagues in extent,
from whence proceeds that great variety of
apples,, the fruit of many of which is excellent.
Among these, however, those of Quillota are the
most in estimation. The quinces are remarkable
for their size and goodness;* like those of
Europe they have an acid and astringent taste,
but if suffered to attain perfect maturity, and
not gathered until the end of autumn, they are
very sweet, and are called in the country corcia.

quantity of all kinds of the best European fruit trees which
have been transplanted thither. They all produced in abun-
dance, particularly the peaches, of which there were large
thickets ; while the only attention paid to their cultivation was
by introducing some small streams of water among them, from
the river Chile, to supply the want of rain during the summer.
— Fraxier's Voyage, vol. i.

Pears and apples grow so naturally in the bushes, that it is
difficult to conceive, on seeing such quantities of them, how it
is possible for these trees to have multiplied since the conquest
to such a degree, if it is true, as is said, that they were not in
the country before that period. — Frazier's Voyage, vol. i.

From these wild apples the Indians made a kind of cider for
present use, not knowing how to ferment it so as to make it
keep. — E. E. — Falkner.

* What I most admired was the size of the quinces, for
they are larger than a man's head. But what was'no less an
object of surprise, was the little account made of them by the
inhabitants, who suffered them to rot upon the ground without
paying any attention to collecting them, — Feuillc, vol. hi.

159

It is a well known fact that this fruit loses its
astringency by being allowed to remain a long
time upon the tree ; but in this country thev pre-
tend that the autumnal rains and the slight
white frosts of that season are necessary to per-
fect it. There is likewise a particular species of
the quince, improperly called lucuma. The
fruit is very different from that of the real lu-
cuma, and is always sweet, of a conical shape,
and in a small degree umbilical ; the skin, as well
as the pulp, is of an orange colour, and the tree
is a real quince tree.

The peaches amount to fourteen species, and
frequently produce fruit of more than sixteen
ounces weight. Among the duracines, that kind
called in the country alberchigos, is the most in
estimation ; the fruit is large and very excellent,
the pulp is of a reddish white, and the stone per-
fectly red. The tree, like the fig, bears twice a
year ; in the month of January it yields large
and pulpy peaches, and in April a small fruit,
resembling the almond, of a delicious taste,
called almendruchos. The pears and cherries
produce also twice a year, but the latter growth
rarely obtains perfect maturity.* Oranges, le-

* The fruit trees brought from Europe thrive very well ia
i that country, whose climate is so favourabk as respects vege-
tation that the trees bear fruit there the whole year. I have
frequently seen in the same orchard, what is coinmou in omn'
geries, the fruit in all states, in the burl, in flower, green, aud
perfectly ripe at the same time, — Frazier's Voyage, vol. i,

180

mons, and citrons, of which there are many va-
rieties in Chili, grow every where in the open
fields, and their vegetation is not inferior to that
of the other trees. Besides the common kind, a
species of small lemon is much cultivated, the
fruit of which is about the size of a walnut,
and very juicy. The leaves are small and re-
semble those of the orange more than the lemon,
a very delicious sweetmeat is made from the fruit,
and the juice is much used in inflammatory
fevers.

The olive* grows very well, particularly in
the vicinity of St. Jago, where I have seen
trees of three feet in diameter and of a pro-
portional height. Medlars, service apples, the
three-grained medlar and the jujube, are the only
European fruits at present unknown in Chili.

*Tbe first olive was carried from Andalusia to Peru in 156*0,
by Antonio de Ribera, of Lima. — £. E.

P, Manuel Rodriguez. Ind, Ckron-

161

CHAP. IV.

Worms, Insects, Reptiles, Fishes, Birds, and
Quadrupeds.

Chili is not quite so abundant in animals as the
other countries of America. The reptiles, for
instance, are but few, and the indigenous qua-
drupeds do not exceed thirty-six species. The
classes of worms, of fishes, and of birds are
those that contain the greatest number of species
and of individuals. From my observations,
however, I am led to believe that insects are less
abundant than in Italy, and that Chili produces
a greater number of worms> particularly the
marine kind ; the whole coast of the Pacific
Ocean being filled with zoophytes and mollus-
cas, many of which are wholly unknown to na-
turalists.

Sect. I. Molluscas. — The pyura (pyura,
gen. nov. ) is a mollusca, remarkable for its
shape and its mode of dwelling. This animal,
which scarcely merits the name, is about an inch

VOL. I, M

m

In diameter, and of the shape of a pear, or it
may more properly be compared to a small fleshy
purse, of nearly a conical form, filled with salt
water ; it is of a red colour, and is furnished on
the upper part with two very short trunks, one of
which serves for a mouth, the other as an anus.
Between these are two shining black points
which I suppose are the eyes. On the strictest
examination I have not been able to discover any
organs or intestines separate from the flesh com-
posing the body of this animal, which is smooth
on the outside, and within mammiform. It is
not, however, destitute of sensibility, as, on
being touched or drawn from its cell, it ejects
with violence from both trunks the water which
it contains. Several of these animals live to-
gether in a kind of coriaceous hive ; this is of
a different form in different places, and appears
to be completely closed on the outside, but with-
in is divided into ten or more cells by means of
strong membranes. Each individual has his
separate cell, where he lives a recluse life with-
out any visible communication with his compa-
nions, and in which he is compelled to remain,
though there is no perceptible ligament that at-
taches him to it. From this circumstance it
may fairly be presumed that these animals are
hermaphrodites of the first species, or such as
produce their like without coupling.

The hives, which serve as habitations for

163

itiese moliuscas, resemble alcyoniums, and are
attached to rocks, covered by the water, from
whence they are torn by the waves and driven on
the shore. The inhabitants of Chili eat the
pyures, either boiled or roasted in the shells, and
when fresh they have the taste of a lobster.
Great quantities of them are dried annually and
sent to Cujo, where they are in great request. I
believe the animal which Kolben, in his descrip-
tion of the Cape of Good Hope, calls the sea
fountain, is of the same family.

Various species of the holothuria, especially
the holothuria physalis, or the galley, are fre-
quently found upon the shore, whither they are
driven by the waves. This mollusca, called by
several authors the sea nettle, from its producing
an inflammation of the skin when touched, is of
the shape and size of an ox-bladder filled with
air. It is furnished within with a great number
of branching feelers, or tentacular, intertwined
with each other, in the centre of which is placed
the mouth, of a very deformed appearance.

These tentaculae are of several colours, red.,
purple or blue; the skin that forms the vesicle or
bladder is transparent, and appears to consist of
different longitudinal and transverse fibres, within
which a peristaltic motion is perceptible. The
top of this bladder is ornamented with a mem*
brane in the shape of a crest, which serves the
animal as a sail, and contains nothing excepting

164

a liHle clear water,, confined to one of its extre-
mities by a membrane or diaphragm, which pre-
vents it from spreading- throughout the whole
cavity of the bladder.

Besides the common cuttle fish (sepia octo-
podia) three other singular species are found iu
the sea of Chili. The first, the ungulated cuttle
fish (sepia unguiculata) is of a great size, and
instead of suckers, has paws armed with a double
row of pointed nails, like those of a cat, which
it can, at its pleasure, draw into a kind of sheath.
This fish is of a delicate taste, but is not very
common. The second I have called the tuni-
cated cuttle fish (sepia tunicata) from its body
being covered with a second skin, in the form of
a tunic ; this is transparent, and terminates in two
little semicircular appendages like wings, which
project from either side of the tail. Many won*
derful and incredible stories are told by sailors
of the bulk and strength of tLis fish, but it is
certain that it As frequently caught of one hun-
dred and fifty pounds weight on the coast of
Chili, and the flesh is esteemed a great delicacy.
The third is the cuttle fish with six feet (sepia.
hexapodia). This species is of a very singular
figure, and when seen in a state of quiescence,
appears much more like a broken piece of the
small branch of a tree than an animal. Its body
does not exceed six inches in length, and is of
the size of a man's finger, divided into four or.

165

five articulations decreasing in size towards the
tail. Its feet are usually drawn up near the
head, but when extended have the appearance of
so many floating roots ; like those of other cuttle
fish, they are furnished with suckers, but so
small as to be scarcely discernible. The head is
misshapen, and supplied with two antennae, or
trunks. The black liquor is contained in a little
bladder or vesicle, common to all the genus, and
is very good for writing. The animal, when
taken in the naked hand, produces a slight de-
gree of numbness, which is not, however, at-
tended with any disagreeable consequences.

Of the urchins, or sea-eggs, there are several
species, but the principal are the white and the
black. The white urchin (echinus albus) is of
a globular form, and about three inches in dia-
meter; the shell and spines are white, but the
interior substance is yellowish, and of an excel-
lent taste. The black urchin (echinus niger) is
a little larger than the white, and of an oval
form; the exterior and the eggs' are black; it
is called the devil's hedge-hog, and is never
eaten.

Of the class of vermes, or worms, the order
of testacei are most abundant in Chili; the sea
shore being covered with all kinds of shells, of
which several hills are formed, from whence the
inhabitants collect great quantities for lime. I
have no doubt that among them might be dis-

m3

166

covered not only some of a new species, but of a
new genus; but as the limits of my work will
not permit me to go into a full description of
them,, I shall confine myself to those kinds that
are the most esteemed and made use of by the
inhabitants.

Oysters are found in many places on the coast;
there are several varieties, but the largest and
best are taken near Coquimbo. Escallops are
found in the same places with the oyster, not
only those with convex, but those with flat
shells.

The principal species of the muscle are the
common, the pearly muscle (mytilus margariti-
fer) the large and small Magellanic muscle, the
chorus, and the black muscle. The large Ma-
gellanic muscle is six inches long and three
bread, the shell is covered on the outside with a
brownish skin, beneath which it is of a beautiful
sky blue, crossed transversely with purple stripes,
and within is of a rich mother of pearl colour
striped with red. The little Magellanic muscle
is nearly of the same colour, but of rather a
more oval form. Both these kinds commonly
contain some small pearls, of little lustre ;
those, on the contrary, that are found in the
pearly muscle, are of a fine water, but almost
always very small.

The chorus (mytilus chorus) is seven inches
long by three and a half broad. The skin is of

167

a deep blue,, but the shell, when stripped of it,
is of a shining white inclining to blue ; the
muscle itself is very white and excellently tasted.
It is principally foifhd on the island of Quin-
quina, and the coast of Araucania. The black
muscle (mytilus ater) is nearly as large as the
chorus, the shell is rough and of a dark blue,
and the flesh black and never eaten.

Fresh water muscles are also found in abund-
ance in the rivers and the ponds. I have noticed
three species of them, known by the names of
dollum, pellu, and uthif, but they are all of an
insipid and disagreeable taste.

The tellinae are also common in Chili, par-
ticularly the may co 3 a species of rayed tellens,
or sun-beam, and the chdlgud, which is entirely
white.

The thaca (chamathaca) is a cockle that is
nearly round, about four inches in diameter ;
the shell is striated longitudinally, and spotted on
the outside wilh white, yellow, and purple ; the
inner part is of a beautiful yellow, and the flesh
excellent eating. The macho, (solen macha) is
a species of razor-shell, a genus of shell-fish
so called from their form. It is six or seven
inches long, and variegated with sky-blue and
brown. Both these kinds bury themselves in
the sand, from whence the fishermen take them
in great numbers.

The rocks of Chiloe afford a residence to a
m4

168

species of pholades (pholus Chilensis^ which the
inhabitants call comes. The shell is bivalve, but
has some cretaceous appendages on the upper
part, and is often six inches long and two
broad. v

Barnacles of various species are found in
abundance upon all the coast. Of these, one
called the i arrot-bill (lepas psittacus) is much
esteemed by the inhabitants. From ten to twenty
of these animals inhabit as many small separate
cells, formed in a pyramid of a cretaceous sub-
stance. These pyramids are usually attached to
the steepest parts of rocks, at the water's edge,
and the animal derives its subsistence from the
sea by means of a little hole at the top of each
cell. The shell consists of six valves, two large
and four small; the large ones project externally
in the form of a parrot's bill, from whence the
animal has received its name. When detached
from the rocks they are kept alive in their cells
for four or five days, during which time they oc-
casionally protrude their bills as if to breathe.
They are of different sizes, though the largest do
not exceed an inch in length, and are very white,
tender, and excellent eating.

Of the buccinura and the mures there are like-
wise a great number of species. One of the
latter, the loco (murex loco) is highly esteemed.
It is very white, and of a delicious taste, but
rather tousrb, and in order to render it tender, it

169

is generally beaten with a small stick before it is
cooked. The shell is oval, and covered with
knots or tuberosities ; the animal is about four
or five inches in length, and near the neck has a
small vesicle which contains a few drops of a
purple liquor.

As far as I have had it in my power to ob-
serve, there are no naked snails or slugs in Chili.,
but those that are covered with a shell are very
numerous in all the thickets. One of the most
curious species is found in the vicinity of Con-
ception; I have called it the serpentine, from its
skin being hard and covered with scales like that
of a serpent. The shell is conical, and larger
than a turkey's egg ; it is slightly striated, and
of a whitish grey colour, and the edge of the
aperture is turned back and forms a border of a
beautiful red.

Sect. II. Crustaceoas Fishes and Insects. —
Thirteen different species of crabs and craw- fish
have been discovered on the sea-coast of Chili,
and there are four kinds inhabiting the fresh
waters. Among the crabs the most remarkable
are the tqlicuna, the xaiva, the apancora, the hairy y
the sarJolia, and the crowned.

The taUcuna (cancer talicuna) has a round,
smooth, and convex shell, about four inches io
diameter. The claws are denticulated, the head
and the eyes very protrusive., and the belly is al-

170

most entirely covered with the tail. When afire
it is of a dark brown, but becomes red when
boiled.

The xaiva (cancer xaiva) has a shell that is
nearly spherical, about two inches and a half in
diameter, furnished with spines upon the edges.

The apancora (cancer apancora) is larger than
the talicuna. The shell is oval and wholly den-
ticulated, the claws are hairy, and the tail of a
triangular form and very long.

The hairy crab (cancer setosus) is of the size
of the preceding, and is entirely clothed with
rough hair like bristles ; the back shell is in the
shape of a heart, and covered with protuber-
ances. The beak is divided and reverted, and
furnished with a great number of hairs.

The santolla (cancer santolla) surpasses all the
ethers in its size, and the delicacy of its taste.
Its shell is orbicular, convex, and of a coria-
ceous consistence ; it is covered with large spines,
which are easily detached when it is roasted, and
the claws are very long and large, and covered
with a wrinkled skin.

The croxened crab (cancer coronatus) is fur-
nished with a shell nearly oval, of about four
inches and a half in diameter, With an excres-
cence in the centre representing a mural crown.

Crawfish are no less abundant on the Chilian
coast. Lord Anson mentions having caught
them at Juan Fernandez of eight and nine pounds

171

weight, that were of an excellent flavour. Lob-
sters are also found in such quantities on the
same island, that the fishermen have no other
trouble to take them, than to strew a little meat
upon the shore, and when they come to devour
this bait, as they do in immense numbers, to
turn them on their backs with a stick, By this
simple method many thousands are taken an-
nually, and the tails, which are in high estima-
tion, dried and sent to Chili.

Of the fresh water crabs, the most remarkable
is that called the mason (cancer cementarius). It
is about eight inches long, of a brown colour
striped with red; the flesh is very white, and
preferable to that of any other species of river or
sea crab. They are found in abundance in almost
all the rivers and brooks, on whose shores thev
build themselves, with clay, a small cylindrical
tenement, which rises six inches above the sur-
face of the ground, but admits the water, by
means of a subterranean ca:al extending to the
bed of the river. They are readily caught hy
letting down a basket or osier pot, with a piece
of meat in it, into the water.

The insects which I have noticed in Chiii
were in general like those of Italy; a great num-
ber, however, appear to be very distinct, and to
merit a particular description. Among the latter
is a singular species of the chrysomela ( chryso-
mela maulica) which is found upon the flowers

172

of the visncga. It is of an oval figure., a little
larger than a house-fly, and is entirely of a
golden colour, and extremely brilliant. The
country people in the province of Maule, where
it is principally to be met with, string together a
number of these insects for necklaces and other
ornaments, which preserve their beauty and bril-
liancy for a long time.

In the same province is found a black beetle of
more than half an inch in length, called pilmo
(Iucanuspilmus) which is very destructive to le-
guminous plants, particularly the bean. But
the husbandmen have succeeded in nearly extirr
pating this species, by shaking the plants, upon
which they are, over vessels of hot water placed
beneath.

Chili is much less infested with grasshoppers
than Cujo, and many other countries in America.
There is but one species with which I am ac-
quainted; it is found upon fruit trees, and is
about six inches long. When the insect extends
its legs, it resembles verv much a twig of the tree
upon which it keeps. The common people, ac-
cording to the vulgar notion that every thing de-
formed has some connexion with evil spirits, call
it the devil's horse.* It is not a common insect,
and appears to me to resemble the grillus clepkas

* From the author's description, this insect appears rather
to belong to the genus of mantis than an\ other.— Fr. Trans.

173

df Linnaeus. Bed-bugs were unknown in Chili
till within the last sixty years. They are said to have
been first introduced by the European ships, but
have since increased very much in the northern
provinces, particularly in St. Jago. The south-
ern provinces are as yet exempt from this trouble-
some insect.

The glow-worms that I have seen" were in ge-
neral similar to those of Italy. But one night, as
I was passing a little wood, I observed three in-
sects as large as the death's head sphinx (sphinx
atropos ) which gave a very bright light. My
attempts to take them, however, were fruitless,
and I was never afterwards able to discover any
of them, but I am of opinion that they were a
species of the lantern-fly.

Of caterpillars there is a great variety of spe-
eies ; and in the summer the' fields of Chili are
embellished with the most beautiful butterflies?
Among them are some that are remarkable for
their size and the splendour of their colours. Of
these, the most distinguished is one that I have
denominated the parrot butterfly (papilio psitta-
cus ). This is very large and wonderfully beau-
tiful ; the top of the head is of a fine vermilion,
marked with yellow ; the back yellow, with red,
azure, and green spots ; the upper part of the
wings is green, spotted with yellow and blue, and
the lower of a pale red ; the belly is blue,
speckled with brown and grey, and the antennae*
1

174

which are shaped like a club,, are purple. There
is another of the same size (papilio leucothea)
called by the children palama. This butterfly is
entirely of a silvery white, except the antennae
and legs, which are black.

In the vicinity of the sea, between the rivers
Rapel and Mctaquito, is a kind of caterpillar
said to resemble the silk-worm, which forms
upon the forest trees small cocoons of a beautiful
silk, not inferior to the European. Nor can it
be doubted, that a climate so mild as that of
Chili should be peculiarly favourable to the pro-
pagation of the silk- worm, but as yet no attention
has been paid thereto, and all the silk used in
that country is imported from Europe.

It would not readily be believed that the rosin,
which is collected in such quantities in the pro-
vince of Coquimbo, from a shrub called cliilca,
a species of origanum, is not a real gum, and,
like others, an exudation of the sap through the
bark. But one of my countrymen, the Abbe
Panda, who has examined with much attention
the natural productions of that province, has
lately discovered that this supposed rosin is pro-
duced by a small smooth caterpillar, of a red co-
lour, and about half an inch in length.* These

* I am convinced that this resinous substance is a produc-
tion of the tree itself, and that the caterpillar merely facili-
tates its exudation, by biting the buds in the spring ; the same
circumstance occurs in many of the resinous trees of Europe.
— Fn Trans.

1»* c

insects collect in great numbers in the beginning
of the spring on the branches of the chilca, where
they form their cells of a kind of soft white wax.
In these they become changed into a small yel-
lowish moth, with black stripes upon the wings,
which I have named plialcna ceraria. The wax
is at first very white, by degrees becomes jellow,
and finally brown ; this change, and the bitter
taste which it then acquires, is supposed to be
owing to the fogs, which are very frequent in the
provinces where it is found. It is collected in
autumn by the inhabitants, who boil it in water,
and afterwards make it up into little cakes, in
which form it is brought to market. In order to
increase its weight, many are accustomed to mix
it with the rosin obtained from another resinous
shrub called pajaro pobo, and in this state great
quantities of it are sold to ship-masters, who use
it for paying their vessels, the only purpose to
which it has hitherto been applied. It is to be
regretted that the situation of the Abbe would
not permit him to pursue his experiments, in or-
der to determine whether this rosin might not
serve for candles equally as well as bees wax,
which it greatly resembles.

Upon the branches of the wild rosemary is
also found a whitish viscous substance, in glo-
bules of the size of a hazel-nut, containing a
very limpid oil, which unquestionably proceeds
from that shrub, and might be found useful for

many purposes. These glands serve at the saiES
time for the habitation of a kind of caterpillar^
which becomes transformed into a small fly with
four brown wings, of the genus of cynips.

In Chili there are many species of the bee.,
particularly in the southern provinces, where
those that produce honey make their hives in
hollow trees, or in holes in the earth ; all the
wax used in the Archipelago of Chiloe is the
product of these wild bees.

As far as I have been able to ascertain, none of
the common wasps are to be found in Chili ; and
as to musquitoes, gnats, and other species of
stinging flies, so troublesome to the inhabitants
of warm countries, they are entirely unknown
there. In the vicinity of stagnant waters only
have I observed a gnat of the species denomi-
nated by Linnaeus, culex ciliaris.

Of the water-fly, there are several species ;
they are always met with in the neighbourhood
of dwellings, and differ in no respect from those
of Europe, excepting one of a middle size, found
only in the province of Calchagua. This is re-
markable for its pleasant musky smell, and is
used by the inhabitants to perfume their clothes,
from which circumstance I have named it tipula
moschifera.

As to the ants, they appear to me to be of the
same kind with those of Europe, and not to offer
any discriminative mark of character.

177-

The Chigua (pulex penetrans) called by the
Chilians nigua or pequi, is found only in the en-
virons of the city of Coquimbo, and so rarely is
it met with even there., that I have been assured
by a person who resided there many years, that a
single child was the only instance he had heard of
any one's having been incommoded by this insect.
Nigua is a generic term in Chilian, signifying
all kinds of vermin or animalcule which infest
animals, particularly the feathered tribe ; these
are precisely similar to those of Europe. Ulloa
appears, therefore, to have been ignorant of the
extensive signification of this word in Chilian, as
what he says in his voyage, that the chiguas, or
pricker, is found upon the whole coast of Chili,
is contradicted by universal experience.

Of the spiders there is but one species that is
remarkable ; this is the great spider with fangs,
which I have called aranea scrofa. It is found
in the vicinity of St. Jago, and lives under
ground ; the body is as large as a hen's egg, and
covered with soft brown hair, and the claws very
long and large ; in the middle of its forehead are
four large eyes, disposed in the form of a square,
and at the sides of the head two others that are
less, and the mouth is furnished with two pin-
cers of a shining black, about two lines in length,
turned back towards the forehead. Notwith-
standing its formidable appearance, this spider is
not dangerous, and serves as an amusement for

VOL. i. n

178

children, who pluck out its pincers without ap-
prehension, which are by the common people be-
lieved to be a specific for the tooth-ache.

Scorpions, called in the language of the coun-
try thekuanque (scorpio Chilensis) differ but
little or nothing in size or appearance from those
of Europe. They are usually met with in some
of the secondary mountains of the Andes. The
common colour is a dark brown, but those found
under stones upon the shores of the river Co-
quimbo are yellow.* It is said that neither of
them are venomous, and that those who are bitten
by them experience no inconvenience. I was
once present when a young* man was bit by one
of them, who merely complained of a slight
smarting of the part, which continued inflamed
for not more than half an hour. Such experi-
ments, however, are too superficial to prove
satisfactory.

Sect. III. Reptiles. — I have already observed,
that there are but few reptiles in Chili; and, in
truth, all that are known are water turtles, two
species of frogs, the land and water toad, a few
lizards of the aquatic and terrestrial kinds, and
one .species of serpent; nor arc either of these
venomous.

*The European scorpions are yellow when young, and con-
tinue so while they remain under stones, but on exposure to
the air become brown. — Fu Trans.

179

The turtles are of two species ; one is an inha*
Ibitant of the sea, denominated by Linnaeus tes-
tudo coriacea ; the other, testudo lutaria, is found
in fresh water, particularly in the lakes of the
southern provinces.

The frogs are the green frog (ranaesculenta)
and the temporary frog (rana temporaria).

The land toads are similar to those of Italy,
and live altogether in moist and wet places. The
water toads are of two kinds, the arunco ( rana
arunco) and the thaul (rana lutea). The arun-
co is a little larger than the temporary frog,
and nearly of the same colour. The body is tu-
berculated, and the feet webbed ; the fore feet
have four toes and the hinder five, all furnished
with small nails almost imperceptible. It is
called by the Araucanians genco, which signifies
lord of the water, as they believe that it watches
over the preservation and contributes to the salu-
fcritv of the waters. The thaul is less than the
common or green frog which it resembles in its
form* Its skin is yellow and covered with
tubercles, and its feet are shaped like those of the
arunco, but not palmated.

The most remarkable of the terrestrial lizards
is the pailum (lacerta pallum) of whose skins
t]ie peasants make their purses. This lizard lives
usually under ground in the plains ; its length,
exclusive of the tail, is a little more than eleven
inches, and it is three inches in circumference ;

180

the tail is as long as the body, the head triangu-
lar, covered with small square scales, the nose
very long, the ears round and like those of all
lizards, placed at the hinder part of the head.
The upper part of its body is covered with small
rhomboidal scales, green, yellow, black, and blue J
the skin of the belly is smooth and of a yellowish
green ; the feet have each five toes, furnished
with strong nails, and the tail is round and of the
same colour as the body.

Of the aquatic lizard but one species has been
discovered, to which Feuille, who saw it, has
given the name of the water salamander (sala-
mandra aquatica nigra). It is fourteen inches
and a half in length, including the tail ; the skin
is without scales, rough in a slight degree, and
of a black inclining to blue; the head is elevated
and rather long, the eyes large and yellow with
a blue pupil, and the nostrils open with a fleshy
border ; its nose is pointed, the mouth wide and
furnished with two rows of small crooked teeth ;
the tongue is large, of a bright red, and at-
tached at the base to the gullet, in which is a
large crop that the animal can contract and ex-
pand at pleasure ; like other water lizards it is
without ears, and from the top of its head to the
extremity of its tail, extends a kind of indented
«rest. The fore feet are much shorter than the
hind, they have each five toes, which, instead of
nails, are furnished with round cartilages; the

181

tail is straight and rounded at the base, but to-
wards the end becomes flattened and expanded
like a spatula ; it is about two inches in breadth,,
and the edges are notched like a saw.

The only serpent of Chili is that known to na-
turalists by the name of coluber esculapii. It is
striped with black, yellow, and white, sometimes
mingled with brown. The largest that I have
seen was not more than three feet in length ; it is
perfectly harmless, and the peasants handle it
without the least apprehension.

Sect. IV. Fishes. — The various kinds of escu-
lent fish, found on the coast of Chili, are by the
fishermen computed to be seventy-six, "the most
of which differ from those of the northern hemis-
phere, and appear to be peculiar to that sea.
There are many, however, that are merely
varieties of species that are common to almost all
seas. Such, among the amphibious or cartila-
ginous fishes, are the ray, the torpedo, scate,
dog-fish, saw-fish, fishing-frog, and old-wife;
and among the spinous fishes, the electrical eel,
the conger, the sword-fish, the cod, the whiting,
the sole, the turbot, the dorado, the bonito, the
tunny, the mackarel, the roach, the barbel, the
mullet, the shad, the pilchard, the anchovy, and
several others.

Whether the vast numbers of fish on the coast
of Chili, are owing to some peculiar local cause?.

n3

m

or to the small number of fishermen, it is a fact,
supported by the testimony of the best informed
navigators, that no country in the world furnishes
a greater quantity of those that are excellent.*

The bays, harbours, and, in a particular man-
ner, the mouths of the large rivers, swarm with
them of all sizes, and in some places they are
caught without any trouble. The river Cauien,
which is three hundred toises broad at its mouth,
and of sufficient depth to admit a ship of the
line, is, at certain seasons of the year, so tilled
with fish, for seven leagues from its mouth, that

* In the road of Valparaiso is caught an abundance of ex«
cellent fish of all kinds, as king fish, bream, soles, &c. besides
an infinite number of those that are migratory, as pilchards,
and a species of cod that come upon the coast in the months
of October, November, and December; also shad, and a kind
of auchovy, which at times are in such multitudes, that they
are caught with baskets on the surface of the water.-- Frazier's
Voyage, vol. i.

We had also fish in such plenty, that one boat would, with
hooks and lines, catch, in a few hours, as much as would serve
a large ship's company two days; they were of various sorts,
all excellent in their kind, and many of them weighed from
twenty to thirty pounds.— Hawkesworth's Voyage of Commo-
dore Byron, chap. viii.

This |>art of Masafuero is a very good place for refresh-
men*, especially in the summer season; the goats have been
mentioned already, and there is all round the island such
plenty of fish, that a boat may, with three hooks and lines,
catch as much as will serve au hundred people; among others
we caught excellent soal fish, cavallies, cod, halibut, and craw-
fish, $x,c.~~H(iiukes worth s Voyage of Cap t. Carteret, chap. if.

o

133

the Indians flock thither in large companies, and
take an astonishing quantity by striking them
from the shores with their lances, formed of a
reed, which I have already described, called
coliu; and an equal abundance is to be found in
the mouths of all the southern rivers.

In the Archipelago of Chil e, where the fish
are still more plentiful, the inhabitants place in the
mouths of the rivers, and even in certain places
on the sea shore, palisades, leaving an opening
towards the sea, which, when the tide begins to
ebb, they carefully close. On the retiring of
the water, the fish enclosed in these wears are left
upon the sand, and taken without difficulty. There
is almost always a greater quantity enclosed than
is wanted by the inhabitants, who come thither
from all quarters to obtain a supply, so that
they frequently open the gate, and permit the
most part to escape with Hie returning Hood.

The cod is as abundant upon the coast of
Juan Fernandez as upon the banks of Newfound-
land, and caught with equal facility, for no
sooner is the line thrown in, than a fish is drawn
up. These fish arrive in large shoals, in the
months of November and December, upon the
coast of Valparaiso. The inhabitants formerly
paid no attention to this important fishery,
but of late have pursued it with great success.

In some parts of the coast, great numbers of
fish are occasionally found upon the shore.

xt 4

184r ^

These fish, when pursued hy the whale, retire to
the shallows, where, unable to contend agai
the violence of the waves, they are thrown upon
the beach, and become the prey of birds, or
when found alive by the inhabitants, are taken
and salted for use. Of the fish, the most esteemed
are the robalo, the corvino, the lisa, and the
king-Jish.

The robalo (esox Chijensis) is nearly of a
cylindrical form, and from two to three feet
long. It is clothed with angular scales, of a
golden colour upon the back, and silver on the
belly, the tins are soft and without spines, the
tail is truncated, and the back marked longitudi-
nally with a blue stripe, bordored with yellow.
The flesh is very white, almost transparent,
light, and of a delicious taste. Those taken
upon the Araucanian coast are the most in repute,
where they are sometimes caught of eight pounds
weight. The Indians of Chiloe smoke them,
after having cleaned and soaked them for twenty-
four hours in sea water, and when sufficiently
dried, pack them up in casks of one hundred
each, which are generally sold from two to three
dollars. The robalo prepared in this manner is
superior to any other kind of dried fish.

The corvino (sparus Chilensis) is nearly of
the same size as the preceding ; it is sometimes,
however, found of five or six feet in length.
This fish has a small head, and a large oval body,

185

covered with broad rhomboidal scales, of a
mother of pearl colour, marked with white * the
tail is, forked, and the body encircled obliquely
from the shoulders to the belly with a number of
brownish lines. The fins are armed with spiny
rays, and the flesh is white, firm, and of a good
taste, particularly when fried. It would pro-
bably be still better if it were prepared like that
of the tunny.

The lisa ( mugil Chilensis ) in its form, scales,
and taste, is much like the common mullet, but
is distinguished by the dorsal fiu, which in the
lisa is entire. There are two species of this fish,
the sea and the river, neither of which exceed a
foot in length ; the first is a very good fish, but
the latter is so exquisite that it is preferred by
many to the best of trout.

The king-fish (cyprinus regius) so called from
the excellence of its flavour, is nearly of the
size of a herring ; it is of a cylindrical form,
covered with golden scales upon the back, and
with silver upon the sides. It has a short blunt
mouth without teeth, yellow eyes, with purple
irides and blue pupils; its fins are yellow and
soft, and that of the back extends from the head
to the tail, which is divided into two parts.
These fish are caught in such abundance, that a
hundred of them may be bought for a real.

Although the fresh waters do not afford as
many different species of fish as the sea, the

186

dumber of individuals is much greater. The
rivers, streams, lakes, and even the small brooks,
produce a surprising quantity, especially those
beyond the 34th degree of latitude. The kinds
most in estimation are the lisa, which I have
already noticed; the trout; the cauqui (cyprinus
caucus); the malche (cyprinus malchus); the
yuli (cyprinus julus); the cumarca, or peladial
(stromateus cumarca); and the bagre, oriuvur
(silurus Chilensis). The bagre his a smooth skin
without scales, and is brown upon the sides, and
whitish under the belly. In its form it resembles a
tad-pole, the head being of a size disproportionate
to the length of the body, which does not exceed
eleven inches at the most. It has a blunt mouth,
furnished like that of the barbel, with barbs.
It has a sharp spine on the back fin, like the tro-
pical bagre, but its puncture is not venomous, as
that is said to be. The flesh is yellow, and the
most delicious of any esculent tish that is known.
There is said to be another species or variety of
this fish, inhabiting the sea, that is black, and
which I presume is the same that Commodore
Anson's sailors called, from its colour, the chim-
ney-sweep.

Eels are found only in the Araucanian pro-
vinces, where they are exceedingly plenty, and
are taken by the Indians in a kind of basket,
placed against the current. The river Talten,
which waters those provinces, produces a small

187

ftsh called paijc, which, as I have been assured
by those who have seen them, is so diaphanous,
(hat if several are pi. iced upon each other, any
object bene ith them may be distinctly seen. If

is property is not greatly exaggerated, this fish
might serve to discover the secret process of di-
gest, on; and the motion of the fluids.

-uMig the great varieties of fish with which
the v. aters of Chili abound, the three following
are more particularly deserving of notice. These
inhabit tbe sea, and are the gilt cJicetodoiij
the ccck-f fh, and the toUo.

The gift clictio on ( chstodon aureus) is flat, of
an oval fbrn . ;. o\t a foot in length, and covered
with very small scales. It is of a bright gold co-
lour, alia* marked with five distinet bands, of more
than half an inch in width, some grey, and others
black. The first is black, commences at the
hack of the neck, and passes in a circular direc-
tion through the eyes ; the two in the centre are
grey, and encircle the body, and the two last are
black and grey, and surround the root of the
tail, which is of a silver colour. This beautiful
fish has a small head, an elongated mouth, fur-
nished with small teeth, and the back entirely
covered from the head to the tail with a large
spinous yellow fin. The tail is in the form of
a fan, and is bordered with yellow., and the flesh
js excellent eating.

The coclc-jish, (chimseracallorynchus) placed

188

Linnaeus among* the amphibious swimmers,
is about three feet long. Its body is round?
larger towards the middle than the extremities,
and covered with a whitish skin devoid of scales.
Its head is surmounted with a cartilaginous crest
extending five or six lines beyond the upper lip,
from whence it has obtained tbe name of the
cock -fish, or cludgua acliagual in the Araucanian
language. It has five fins; the dorsal com-
ment es immediately behind the head, and ex-
tends itself to, the middle of the back, it is very
large, of a triangular form, supported by a strong
sharp spine, five inches in length ; this spine,
which is longer tnan the fin, is the only bony
p rt of the fish, all the rest being cartilaginous,
even the back bone, which, like that of the lam-
prey, is furnished with neither marrow nor nerves.
The four other fins are placed near the gills and
beneath the anus ; these are double, which is
very uncommon, and the tail is shaped like a leaf,
with the point turned towards the belly. This
fish, when eaten, is served up more as an object
of curiosity than from a regard for its flavour,
which is very indifferent.

The toll o (squalus Fernandinus) is a species
of dog-fish, a little larger than the cock-fish,
and remarkable for two dorsal spines, like those
of the squalus acanthias. These spines are tri-
angular, bent at the point, as hard as ivory, and
two inches and a half long, and five lines broad.

189

They are said to be an efficacious remedy for the
tooth-ache, by holding the point of one of them
to the affected tooth.

Notwithstanding the whale belongs to the
class of lactiferous animals, I have thought
proper to notice it in this place, as many authors^
from its external conformation, have ranked it
among fishes. The species that frequent the Chi-
lian seas are the great whale ( bcdaena mysticetus)
called by the Araucanians yens ; the little whale
(balaena boops) called icol, and the three known
species of the dolphin. Both these kinds of
whale are very common in that sea, and at certain
seasons they are seen in great numbers, particu-
larly near the mouths of rivers, whither they
come in quest of fish.

The late English navigators speak of the great
quantity of whales which they met with upon the
coast of Terra del Fuego, and in the Straits of
Magellan; and in the account of Captain Cook's
last voyage, the little whale is particularly men-
tioned. I have good reason to believe that, be-
sides the two kinds of whales above mentioned,
all the species discovered in the northern may
likewise be found in the southern seas : but as the
Chilians have never paid attention to the whale
fishery, 1 am not able to assert it with positive-
ness, nor to determine the difference, if there be
any, between the northern and southern whale ;
this, however, is certain, that Jie whales .:.' :he

190

south are not inferior in size to those of tW
north. I have myself seen a whale that had been
driven ashore on the coast of the Chones, that
was ninety-six feet long, and on the same coast
was also found the rib of another twenty-two feet
in length. I cannot but be surprised that Mr.
Buffon, in contradiction to the testimonv of the
most respectable navigators., has asserted that
the southern seas produce no whales,* and that
the largest animal that is found in them is the
manati ; that learned naturalist, who too fre-
quently suffers himself to be misled by his favou-
rite system, should have recollected that the
great phoca, improperly denominated the sea-
lion, an animal which he has himself described,
far exceeds in size the manati.

There are occasionally seen upon the coast of
Araucania, certain animals called by the In-
dians sea-cows. From the imperfect description
which I have received of them, I cannot deter-
mine whether they are manatis, morses, or a spe-
cies of phocas. 1 am, however, more inclined to
believe them to be manatis, as great numbers of
these animals were found by the first Spanish
settlers of Juan Fernandez on the shores of that

* On the 30th we steered for Staten-land, and on the pas-
sage fell ih with so great a number of whales, of the largest
size, that the crew were apprehensive lest the} would sh.l the
ship. We also saw great numbers of sea-wolves and peu-
guins.— -Journal of Captain Cooh's second Voyage, p. 522.

191

island ; but the immense destruction which they
made of them, as they were eagerly hunted for
their flesh, has entirely driven them from those
shores.

The Indians pretend that in certain lakes in
Chili is to be found an animal of a monstrous
size, which they call guruvilu, or the fox-ser-
pent. They believe that it devours men, and on
that account never bathe in those lakes. But the
descriptions which they give of its size and form
scarcely ever agree: some representing it as hav-
ing the body of a serpent with the head of a fox;
others, as being of a circular form, and re-
sembling an inflated ox-hide. It is, however*
probable that this animal has no other existence
than in the imaginations of these people.*

Sect. V. Birds. — After that of insects, the
most numerous class of animals in Chili is that
of birds. Those that inhabit the land alone
amount to a hundred and thirty-five species, and

* Of the various means of defence with which Nature has
provided its creatures, I remember none more singular than
that of the drum-fish on the coast of Peru ; which, when
alarmed, inflates itself till it becomes perfectly round. The
eyes project so far when it is in this state, as to prove that it
is not done without great effort. But none of its enemies can
then swallow it because of its size, or bite it because of its
shape, — E. E.

Mercurio Pcruano, N«. 280,.

192

the number of those belonging to the sea, is
almost impossible to be estimated. The genus of
gulls alone is known to contain twenty-six dif-
ferent species, and many others are not less nu-
merous.

That vast chain of mountains, the Andes, may
be considered as the nursery of birds of all kinds.
They assemble there in great numbers in the
spring, in order to breed and rear their young in
greater security ; and on the falling of the first
snows in winter, they quit them in large flocks,
and seek the plains and the maritime mountains.
To their residence in the Andes, which are almost
always covered with snow, I think may be attri-
buted that difference of plumage frequently ob-
servable in individuals of many of these species,
of which I have seen some that were perfectly
white.

Many of the birds of Chili are merely simple
varieties of species that are found in Italy and
many other parts of Europe. Of this number
are the geese, ducks, divers, plovers, herons,
kites, falcons, black-birds, pigeons, crows, part-
ridges, and domestic fowls.* The sportsmen

* The country abounds with an infinity of birds, particularly
wild pigeons, turtle-doves, and partridges, though the latter
are inferior to those of Europe, and with grouse and ducks af
all -kinds ; among the latter is one called the royal duck, which
has a red comb upon its head. There are likewise curlew;-,
and a kind of widgeon, (resembling the sea-bird called malvis)

193

enumerate sixteen species of wild ducks, and six
of geese. Among the former, the royal duck
(anas regia) is principally distinguishable; it is
much larger than the common duck, the upper
part of the body is of a beautiful blue, and the
lower part grey ; the head is adorned with a large
red comb, and thengck with a collar of beautiful
white feathers.

Of the geese, the most remarkable is the cos-
covooa, (anas coscoroba). It is highly esteemed
both for its size, and for the case with which it is
tamed, as it becomes strongly attached to those
who feed it, and follows them around like a dog.
The plumage is entirely white, the feet and bill
are red, and the eyes of a fine black.

The swan of Chili (anas melancoripha) is
nearly of the same size with that of Europe ; its
form is likewise similar, but its plumage is dif-
ferent, that on the head and upper part of the
neck being black, and the residue of a snowy
white. The female has six young at a brood,
which she is careful never to quit, but takes them

which lias a long, straight, narrow, scarlet bill, flat upon the
upper side, and a stripe of the same colour over the eyes; the
feet are like those of the ostrich, and the flesh is very good
eating. Parrots are in plenty, and there are some swans and
flamingoes, whose feathers are highly prized by the Indians for
ornamenting their heads upon public occasions; these are of a
beautiful white and carnation, colours that are in the greatest
estimation among them. — Frazier's Voyage, vol. i„
VOL. I. 6

194

with her upon her back whenever she leaves her
nest.

Of herons there are five very beautiful species.
The first is the large European heron (ardea
major). The second, the red-headed heron,
(ardea erytrocephala) is of the size of the first ;
it is entirely white excepting the head, which is
crowned with a long red crest that hangs down
upon its back. The third, the galatea heron
(ardea galatea) is of a milk-white colour, the
neck is two feet and a half long, the legs are of
the same length and red, and the bill, which is
yellow, is four inches long. The fourth, the
heron with a blue head (ardea cyanocephala).
The head and back of this species are blue, the
wings black, edged with white, the belly is of a
yellowish green, the tail green, the bill black,
and the legs are yellow. The fifth is the thula
(ardea thula) a name derived from the Chilian;
it is entirely white, and its head is adorned with
a beautiful crest of the same colour.

Of the two kinds of eagles in Chili, one is the
yellow eagle of Europe, called by the Indians
gnanca, and another species called calquin, whicli
appears to me to differ but little from the ilz-
quauhtli of Mexico, and the urutaurana of Brasil.
This eagle, from the extremities of its wings,
measures about ten and a half feet; its breast is
white, spotted with brown, and the neck, back,
and wings, are black, inclining to blue ; the tail

195

is marked transversely with black and brown
stripes, and the head decorated with a blue crest.

The turtle-doves are of two species ; the one is
similar to that of Europe ; the other (columba
melanoptera) has an ash-coloured body and
black wings.

There are four species of ihe woodpecker ; the
green, the Virginian, tlie carpenter, and thepitiu.
The carpenter (picus lignarius) is less than a
starling, and has a red crest, and the body is va-
riegated with white and blue. The bill is so
strong that it perforates with it not only dry but
green trees, and proves very injurious to the
fruit trees, by making deep holes in them,
wherein it deposits its eggs. The pitfu (picus
pitius) is of the size of a pigeon. Its plumage
is brown, spotted with white, and its flesh is
held in much estimation. This bird lays four
eggs, but it does not, like others of its species,
nest in the holes of trees, but in excavations
which it makes in the high banks of rivers, or
on the sides of hills.

Grey and red partridges, which, according to
Feuille, are larger than those of Europe, are
very numerous throughout the country. They
have an excellent flavour, particularly during
the months of April and May, when they feed
upon the flowers of the sassiaperdicaria. In the
marshes is found a species that is smaller, whose
flesh is much less delicate. Quails are wholly

o2

196

unknown in Chili., although common in many of
the American settlements.

The domestic fowl, which the Indians call
acliau, is of the same hreed as that of Europe;
but it is asserted on the faith of an ancient tradi-
tion, that it has always been known in the coun-
try; and what tends to confirm this opinion, is
the proper name which it has in the Chilian lan-
guage, which is not the case with other birds of
foreign extraction, such as the common pigeon,
the tame duck, the goose, and the turkey. From
whence it would seem that the domestic fowl, the
hog, and the dog, are animals destined to ac-
company man in whatever country he may be
placed. This opinion is confirmed by the late
English navigators, who have met with them
in almost all the islands of the Pacific.

Among the numerous birds that inhabit Chili,
I shall notice those only that are the most re-
markable, which I shall divide into two general
classes, the palmated or web-footed, and the
cloven-footed. The first have their toes iwiited
by a membrane, and frequent the water, where
they feed upon fish, aquatic plants, or insects.

Of these, the principal is the penguin (diorne-
dea Chilensis). This bird, on the part of the
feathered tribe, forms a link of union between
the classes of birds and fishes, as the flying-fish
does on that of the finny race. The feet are
palmated like those of a duck, but its plumage ia

197

so fine that it appears more like hair than fea-
thers,, and instead of wings it has two pendent
fins, covered with very short feathers resembling
scales, which are of great use to it in swimming,
but much too small for the purpose of flying. It
is of the size of a common duck, but its neck is
much longer ; the head is compressed at the sides,
and very small in proportion to the size of the
body ; the bill is slender, and bent a little to-
wards the point ; the upper part of the body, the
wings and the tail, which is nothing more than
an extension of the feathers of the rump, are of a
changeable grey and blue, and the breast and
belly are white. The feet, which have but three
toes, are situated near the anus., aud it walks in
an erect posture, with its head elevated like that
of a man, keeping it constantly in motion in
order to preserve its equilibrium. This gives it
at a distance the appearance of a child just be-
ginning to walk, whence the Chilians have deno-
minated it the child-bird.

Although the penguin is an excellent swimmer,
it cannot keep the sea during a storm, and the
bodies of those which have perished at such
times, are frequently found upon the beach. I
have never known it eaten in Chili, though seve-
ral navigators represent it as very good food.
The skin is as thick as that of a hog, and very
easily separated from the flesh. The female

o3

198

makes her nest in the sand,, in which she lays six
or seven white eggs, spotted with black.

The quethu (diomedea Chilensis) is of the
same genus, size and form as the preceding, hut is
distinguished by its 'wings, whuh are wholly
destitute of feathers, and by having four toes on
each foot. The body is covered with a very
long thick ash-coloured plumage, a little curled,
and so soft that the inhabitants of Chiloe, where
these birds are very common, spin it, and make
bed-coverings of it, that are highly prized in the
country.

The thage (pelicanus thagus) called by the
Spaniards the alcatrace, is a species of pelican of
a brown colour, remarkable for the size of its
sack. This bird is as large as a turkey-cock,
the neck is about a foot, af d the legs twenty-
two inches long. Its head is large and well pro-
portioned, and the bill, which is a little bent at
the point, is a foot in length, and serrated at the
edges, a characteristic mark that distinguishes
this pelican from that of Europe, whose bill is
entire and smooth. The lower mandible, at a
little distance from the point, is divided into
two parts, that are very clastic and extensible at
the base, whkie they open into the membraneous
sack. This is only an enlargement of the skin
which covers the lower jaw and the neck ; it is
clothed with a very short grey down, and is ca-?

199

pable of great expansion. When this sack is
empty it is scarcely perceptible, but when filled
with fish, particularly at the time when the bird
lias young, its size is really astonishing. . Nature,
ever attentive to adapt the mean to the end, has
furnished this bird with a large pair of wings,
which are nearly nine feet in breadth from one
extremity to the other ; the quills are very long,
and are preferred for writing to those of the
goose or the swan ; its tail is short and round,
and the feet have four toes united by a strong
membrane. It is a solitary and indolent bird, al-
most constantly to be seen upon the rocks,, where
it makes its nest, and it has usually five young at
a brood. The inhabitants, after dressing them,
make use of these sacks for tobacco-pouches ;
they are also employed for lanterns, and from
their transparency answer the purpose very
well.

The cage (anas hybrid a) is a species of goose
which frequents the islands in the Archipelago
of Chiloe. It is remarkable for the difference of
colour between the male and the female; the
former being entirely white, with a yellow bill
and legs ; whereas the female is black, except a
narrow white stripe with which the edges of
some of the feathers are marked, and the bill and
legs are red. In consequence of this remarkable
dissimilarity, I have given to this bird the name
of the hybrid, or mulatto. The cage is of the

o 4

£00

size of a tame goose, but it has a shorter neck,
and a longer tail and wings ; the feet are shaped
like those of the European goose. The male and
female appear to be strongly attached to each
other ; they keep in pairs, and are never to be
met with, like other aquatic birds, in large
flocks. During the breeding season they retire
to the sea shore, where the female usually lays
eight white eggs in a hole which she makes in
the sand.

The flamingo (phamicopterus Chilensis) is one
of the most beautiful birds of Chili. It fre-
quents only the fresh waters, and is distin-
guished by its size and the beautiful flame-co-
lour of its back and wings, which produces a
most pleasing effect when contrasted with the
pure white of the rest of its plumage. Its length
from the tip of the bill to the end of the claws,
is five feet, but the body itself does not exceed a
foot in length ; it has a small oblong head, deco-
rated with a kind of crest; the eyes are small
but lively ; the bill denticulated, a little bent to-
wards the point, about five inches long, and co-
vered with a reddish pellicle ; the feet have four
toes, three forvVard, and one behind ; the tail is
short and rounded, and the wings are of a length
proportioned to the size of its body; the quills
are perfectly white, while those of the flamingos
of the other parts of America and Africa, are
black. It has been said, that when young these

201

birds are grey ; but as I have myself seen them
of all ages, I can assert that they are always of
the *same colour. It is also said that whenever
they feed, one of the flock is placed as a sentinel,
to give the alarm in case of danger to the others.
This circumstance I have never witnessed ; it is,
however, true, that they are extremely wild, and
can rarely be approached within gun-shot. As
the legs of this bird are too long to permit it
conveniently to cover its nest, it is compelled to
obviate this inconvenience by the position of the
the latter ; this is usually constructed at the edge
of the water, in shape of a truncated cone, a foot
and a f half high ; on the top of this cone is a
little excavation lined with very soft down. The
bird, while in the act of incubation, places itself

* Darapier, who must have seen as many of these birds as
Molina, and whose veracity and accuracy are unimpeachable,
asserts]pn the contrary that the young ones are of a light grey,
and as their wing-feathers spring out they grow darker, and
never come to their right colour, nor any beautiful shape,
under ten or eleven months old. — (Vol 1. p. 72) The Goara-
aes, or Uwaras, as Stade calls them, whose bright scarlet fea-
thers are the favourite ornament of the Brazilian tribes, are,
in like manner, first of the colour of ashes, and then brown.
—£. E.

■\ Darapier says they build their nests in shallow ponds,
where there is much mud, which they scrape together, making
little hillocks, like small islands appearing out of the water.—
Vol. 1. p. 71.

4

202

in a standing posture, with the hinder part of its
body supported upon the nest, as if s<*ated in a
chair. The Araucanians value the flamingo
highly, and make use of its feathers to ornament
their helmets and the ends of their lances.

The pillu (tantalus pillu) is a species of the
ibis. Its plumage is white, mottled with black,
and its general resort is the rivers and the fresh
water lakes. Of all the aquatic birds, the pillu,
has the longest legs, which, comprehending the
thighs, are two feet eight inches in length. The
size of the body, which is nearly that of a tame
goose, is by no means proportionate to the length
of the legs; the neck is two feet three inches
long, and the region of the crop, which is small,
is destitute of feathers. The head is of a middle
size, the bill large, convex, and sharp-pointed,
about four inches in length, and entirely bare of
feathers ; it has four toes on each foot, which
are united at their base by a very small mem-
brane ; the tail is short and entire like that of
almost ail aquatic birds. The Spaniards call it
the stork of Chili; but it differs from the stork
in various respects. I have never seen it light
upon trees or any elevated object, and it almost
always continues in the marshes and on the banks
of rivers, where it feeds upon reptiles; it usually
makes its nest among rushes, in which it lays two
white eggs, a little inclining to blue.

Those birds which have the toes separate and

203

not united by a membrane, are by naturalists de-
nominated cloven-footed ; these for the greater
part inhabit the plains and the woods, and feed
upon insects, fruits, or flesh. Of this class I
shall select those that are most remarkable for
the beauty of their plumage, the melody of their
song, or any other quality.

The pigda, known under the different names of
pica-flora, humming-bird, &c. is the trochilus of
Linnaeus, who has described twenty-two species
of it. It is generally very small; the neck is
short, the head well proportioned, the eyes are
black and vivid, the bill is of the size of a pin,
and nearly of the same length as the body, the
tongue bifurcated, and the legs are short with
four toes; the tail consists of seven or nine fea-
thers the length of the body, and the wings are
very long. Their colours vary according to
their species ; but they are in general very ricV,
and combine the splendour of gold and precious
stones with the most beautiful shades of every
hue, which they retain even after their death.
They are very common throughout Chili, and
during the summer are seen like butterflies ho-
vering around the flowers, and appear as if sus-
pended in the air They make a humming noise
with their wings, but their note is nothing more
than a low warbling or chattering. The males
are distinguishable from the females by the bril-
liancy of their heads, which shine like fire.

204

These birds build their nests upon trees, and form
them of small straws and down; they lay two
white eggs, speckled with yellow, of the size of
a chick pea, which the male and female cover
alternately. On the approach of winter, this
little bird suspends itself by its bill to a twig,
and in this position falls into a lethargic sleep,
which continues the whole season. This is the
time when they are chiefly taken, for when they
are in full vigour it is almost impossible to catch
them.

I have observed three species of this bird in
Chili ; the little, the blue-headed, and the
crested humming-bird.

The little humming-bird (troehilus minimus)
weighs only two grains, and its prevailing co-
lour is a very brilliant green.

The blue-headed humming-bird (troehilus
cyanocephalus) has a tail thrice as long as its
body, which is of the size of a filbert ; the bill
is straight, pointed, and whitish ; the head is blue
with a golden lustre ; the back of a shining
green; the belly of a reddish yellow; and the
wings blue, mottled with purple.

The crested humming-bird (troehilus galeri-
tus) is the largest of these three kinds, and is a
little less than the European wren. Its bill is
slightly curved, and its head adorned with a
small crest striped with gold and purple; its
neck and back are green, the large feathers of

205

the wings and tail brown, spotted with gold, and
all the lower part of the body of a changeable
flame-colour.

The siu (fringilla barbata) called by the Spa-
niards gilgliero, or the goldfinch, is nearly of the
size and form of the canary-bird. It has a
straight, sharp-pointed, conical bill, which is
white at the base and black at the point. The
male has a black velvety head, and a yellow
body slightly marked with green; its wings are
variegated with green, yellow, red, and blacky
and the tail is brown ; when young its throat is
yellow, but as it advances in years is entirely co-
vered with a black hair, which begins to be vi-
sible when the bird is six months old, and con-
tinues growing until it attains the age of ten
years, the usual period of its life, at which time
it reaches to the middle of the breast, and its
age may be very accurately ascertained by the
length of its beard. The female is entirely grey,
with a few yellow spots upon the wings; it has
no beard, nor any song, but only a kind of occa-
sional whistle; the note of the male is, however,
very harmonious, and far surpasses that of the
canary-bird ; when it begins to sing, it elevates
its voice by little and little, continues its strain
for a considerable time, and closes with some
very sweet trills ; it sings all the year, and is
readily taught to imitate with remarkable grace
the notes of other birds. In the maritime moun-

206

tains the siu may be met with at any season, but
it is found in the plains of the middle provinc
only during the winter, as it quits them in the
spring1 for. the Andes, where it breeds. It makes
its nest upon any kind of tree with small straws
and feathers ; it has but two young at a biood,
but I am inclined to believe that it breeds se-
veral times in a season. This bird multiplies
astonishingly, and may be seen every where; and
although the peasants, who eat as well as encage
them, take thousands every year, their numbers
are not at all diminished ; it becomes after a little
time very familiar, and even attached to those
whom it is accustomed to see; it feeds on se-
veral kihds of seeds, but its favourite food is the
grain of the madia sativa, and the aromatic
leaves of the scandix Chilensis.

The diuca (fringilla diuca) is of the same
genus as the preceding, hut a little larger, and
of a blue colour ; its note is very agreeable,
particularly towards day-break; it keeps about
houses like the sparrow, which it resembles in
many respects, and I think it highly probable
that it is the same bird with the blue sparrow of
Congo, mentioned by Merolla and Cavazzi, and
the New Zealand bird of Captain Cook, which
sung so harmoniously at sunrise.

The tliili, or Chili fturdus thiiius) is a species
of thrush which, as I have already observed, ap-
pears to have given its name to the country
3

207

where it is found in great numbers. Linnaeus
has described from Feuille the female of this
bird under the name of turdus plumbcus. The
female is indeed of a grey colour., but the male
is entirely black except a yellow spot which it
has under the wings ; it has the shape of a
thrush, but the tail is cuneated ; it makes its
nest upon trees near the river with wet mud, in
which it lays four eggs ; its song is very sweet
and loud, but it will not bear confinement ; it is
never eaten, as its flesh has a rank and disagree-
able smell.

The thenca (turdus thenca) in my opinion is
merely a variety of the Virginian thrush (turdus
polyglottus) or of the turdus Orpheus, or cent-
zontlatotLe of Mexico, called the four hundred
tongues, from the variety of its notes; it is of
the size of the common thrush, but its wings
and its tail, which is entire and rounded, are
longer ; its e}res, bill, and feet are brown ; the
upper part of its body is of an ash-colour,
spotted with brown and white ; the ends of the
quills and the tail-feathers are white, and the
breast and belly of a light grey; it builds its
nest upon trees ; this is a foot in length, of a
cylindrical form, lined within with wool and
feathers, and completely guarded upon the out-
aide with thorns, except a small opening, by
which the female enters and deposits her egg's,

208

which are four or five, and are vfhite speckled
with brown.

It is not in the power of language to^-convey
an idea of the song of the thenca, which has
the sound of a great number of birds whose
notes are in accord ; it also possesses the property
of imitating the note of any other bird, and its
strain is generally much louder and more har-
monious than that of the nightingale ; it is a gay
and active bird, always in motion, and even while
singing continues hopping from one bough to
another. For this reason it will not bear con-
finement, and if shut up in a cage soon dies. It
is usually to be met with near country-houses,
and feeds upon almost any thing, but appears to
have a decided preference for flies and tallow.

The cureu (turdus cureus) appears to be of a
species between the thrush and the black-bird ;
to the latter of which it has some resemblance,
and is of the same size. The bill is a little an-
gular and bent towards the point, the nostrils are
covered with a thin membrane, and the corners
of the mouth furnished with hairs ; the feet and
position of the toes are like those of the black-
bird, and its tail is cuneiform and about five
inches long : the whole plumage is of a glossy
black, of this colour are also the eyes, bill, feet,
and even the flesh and bones.

This bird is highly prized for the melody and

209

compass of its note; it imitates very well the
song of other birds, and when in a cage is easily
taught to speak; it feeds upon seeds, worms, and
flesh, and frequently pursues and kills small
birds, the brains of which it eats. Notwith-
standing this ravenous propensity it is easily
tamed, and a few davs are sufficient to reconcile
it to confinement.

The cureu, like the starling, is a social bird,
and is daily to be seen in large flocks feeding in
the meadows, which, when at evening they re-
tire to their roosts, make the air resound with
their sprightly notes. They build their nests,
with much skill, of small twigs interwoven with
rushes, and cemented with clay, which they
bring; in their bills and claws. When the nest
is formed, the female smooths it upon the outside
with her tail, which serves as a trowel, and lines
it within with hair, upon which she lays three
white eggs of a blueish cast.
N The loyca (sturnus loyca) is larger than the
starling, which it resembles in its bill, tongue,
feet, tail, and manner c.f feeding. The male is
of a dark grey, spotted with white, except the
throat, which is scarlet; the female is of a lighter
grey, and the red on the throat is paler; it builds
its nest, in a careless manner, in any hole which it
finds in the ground, and lays but three grey eggs
marked with brown. This bird is also valued
for its singing, and is easily tamed. In its state

vol. i. p

210

of freedom, the male, accompanied by the fe-
male, rises perpendicularly in the air, constantly
singing, and descends in the same manner. The
Indians entertain some superstitious opinions re-
specting the singing of this bird, and they employ
the feathers of its breast to ornament their head-
dresses.

The rara (phytotoma rara, gen. nov. ) is about
the size of a quail, and appears to be the only
species of its genus, the passeres of Linnaeus.
Its bill is thick, conical, straight-pointed, serrated
at the edges, and half an inch long, the tongue
short and blunt, the pupil of the eye brown, the
tail of a middle length and rounded, and upon
each foot it has four toes, three before, and one
behind, rather shorter ; its general colour is
grey, dark upon the back, and lighter upon the
belly ; the prime feathers of the wings and the
side feathers of the tail are tipped with black.
Its note is harsh and broken, and sounds like the
two syllables that form its name. It feeds upon
grass, which it has a mischievous propensity of
pulling up from the roots, and often, through
mere wantonness, a much greater quantity than
it eats. On this account the husbandmen are at
continual war with it, and the children are re-
warded for destroying its eggs. It builds its nest
in dark and solitary places npon the highest
trees, and, by this means, escapes, in a great
measure, the pursuits of its enemies; but its.

211

numbers have, however, become considerably di-
minished, either from this cause, or from the
species being naturally unprolific.

There are three different kinds of the parrot
in Chili, one of which is constantly to be found
in the country, but the others are birds of pas-
sage. The first species, called tliecau (psittacus
cyanalysios) is a little larger than a common
pigeon, and is decorated with a superb blue
collar ; the head, wings, and tail are green spot-
ted with yellow ; but the back, throat, and belly
are yellow ; the tail is of a middle length and
equal. These birds are very numerous, and
very destructive to the corn ; they fly in large
flocks, and whenever they light upon a field to
feed, one of their number is stationed upon a tree
as a sentinel, who advertises his companions by
frequent cries of the approach of danger. This
renders them difficult to be approached, and the
only means of obtaining a number of them at a
shot is by throwing a hat in the air, which they
fly at with incredible eagerness. They make
their nests among the steepest declivities, in
which they scoop deep and winding holes, and
lay two white eggs of the size of a pigeon's.
Although their nests appear to be inaccessible,
the peasants take great numbers of their young.
In order to do this, they let themselves down by
a rope to the mouth of the holes, and draw the
young parrots out with a kind of hook made for

p2

212

the purpose. These are a cheap and excellent
food ; I have seen eight of them sold for the
smallest coin of the country, about three sous.
When the first brood is taken away, they hatch
a second, sometimes a third, and even a fourth ;
to this wonderful fecundity is owing the great
numbers of these birds, which frequently destroy
the crops. They are easily tamed, and readily
taught to speak.

Those which are migratory are the choroi and
the jaguilma. I call them migratory, from their
inhabiting the Andes in summer, and not appear-
ing in Chili until the winter. Both these species
are of the size of a turtle-dove, and belong to
the family of parroquets.

The upper part of the body of the choroi
(psittacus choraeus) is of a beautiful green,
the belly is of an ash colour, and the tail well
proportioned. This bird is taught to speak much
better than either of the others.

The jaguilma (psittacus jaguilma) is entirely
green, excepting the edges of the wings, which
are brown. The tail is very long and poiuted.
This species appears to be the most prolific. In
the plains situated between the 34th and 45th
degrees of latitude, it is frequently seen in such
numerous flocks as almost to surpass belief.
When they quit a field where they have been
feeding, in order to fall upon another, they fre-
quently obscure the sun, and their chattering,

213

which is very unpleasant, is heard at a great
distance. Fortunately, this destructive race
does not arrive till after the harvest, and departs
before the trees begin to put forth, otherwise they
would lay waste the whole country. It is in-
credible what havoc they make while they slay,
as tltey devour not only the tops of the plants,
but even the roots. An inconceivable quantity
of them is killed in the fields, but so far from di-
minishing their numbers, on the contrary, they
appear to be increased at every return. When-
ever these birds alight upon a field, the hus-
bandmen furnish themselves with long poles, and,
mounted on swift horses, fall upon them unex-
pectedly, and as they are always in large flocks,
and keep very close together, they cannot fly off
so quickly but that great numbers of them are
generally left dead on the ground. The flesh is
delicious, and preferable to that of any other
species of the parrot.

In almost all parts of America is found a
species of water-hen, with armed wings, espe-
cially at Brasil, where it is called the jacana.
That of Chili, called the tJieghel (parra Chilen-
sis) is of the size of a pie, but its legs are
longer ; its head is black, ornamented with a
small crest, the neck, back, and upper part of the
wings are purple, the throat and upper part of
the breast black, and the belly is white. The
quijls of the wings and the tail are short and of

p3

214

a deep brown ; on the forehead it has a red fleshy
excrescence, divided into two lobes; the iris of
the eyes are yellow, and the pupil brown ; the
bill is conical, a little bent towards the point,
and about two inches long; the nostrils are ob-
long and very open, and the legs, which are bare
of feathers below the knees, have four long toes
that are separate, but more proportionate to its
size than those of the Brasil species. The spur,
which is placed on the joint of the wing, is six
lines long and three broad, and is of a yellowish
colour and conical form.

A bird as well armed as this cannot want for
means of defence in case of necessity, and it of
course fights with great courage and vigour
every thing that attempts to molest it. It is
never seen in elevated places, and never perches
upon trees, but lives wholly in the plains, and
feeds upon insects and worms. It builds its
nest in the grass, where it lays four fawn-co-
loured eggs, spotted with black, a little larger
than those of a partridge. It keeps in pairs,
and the male and female are almost always toge-
ther, but it is very rarely to be seen in flocks.
When they perceive any one searching for their
nest, they at first conceal themselves in the grass,
without discovering any apprehension ; but as
soon as they see the person approaching the spot
where the nest is placed, they rush out with fury
to defend it. It is observed that this bird never

215

makes the least noise during the day, and that it
cries at night only when it hears some one passing.
For this reason, the Araucanians, when at war,
are accustomed to watch the cry of this bi:d,
which serves them as a sentinel to inform them
of the approach of an enemy. They were for-
merly accustomed in Chili to hunt these birds
with the falcon, but this mode has been long out
of use, and they are at present shot with fowling-
pieces. It is good game, and in no respect in-
ferior to the woodcock.

The piuquen (otis Chilensis) is a species of
bustard larger than that of Europe. It is
almost entirely white, excepting its head and the
upper part of its wings, which are grey, and the
first quills, which are black. Its tail is short,
and composed of eighteen white feathers. It
has no excrescence either beneath the throat, or.
upon the bill, which resembles that of the com-
mon bustard. Its feet are divided into three
toes before, and a fourth, rather more elevated,
behind. It inhabits the plains, where it is almost
always found in flocks; it feeds upon grass, and
does not begin to breed until two years old ; it
lays six white eggs larger than those of the goose,
is easily tamed, and many of the country people
have domesticated it.

The cheuque, or American ostrich (struthio
rea) is principally found in the environs of the
celebrated lake of Nahuelguapi, in the valjeys of

p4

216

the Andes. In height it is nearly equal to a
man; its neck is two feet eight inches long, and
its legs of the same length ; its head small and
round, and covered with feathers ; its eyes and
eyelids are black, and furnished with eyebrows ;
its bill is short and broad like that of the duck,
and the feet have three toes entirely separate
before, and the vestige of a fourth behind ; its
tail is composed of seyeral short feathers of an
equal length, which grow out of the rump. Its
wings are eight feet in length from their extre-
mities, but not calculated for flight, owing to the
great flexibility and weakness of the feathers.
The plumage of the back and wings is of a dark
grey, but that of the other parts of the body is
white. Among these birds are found some that
are entirely white, and others that are black, but
I consider them merely as varieties.

The cheuque has not, like the African ostrich,
a horny substance upon its wings, nor callosities
on the sternum, but it is quite as voracious, and
swallows whatever is offered it, even iron. Its
favourite food is flies, which it catches with
much dexterity. It has no defence but its feet,
which it employs against those who molest it.
Its whistle, when it calls its young, resembles
that of a man. It lays from forty to sixty eggs
in a careless manner upon the ground ; they are
well tasted, and so large that they will contain
about two pounds of liquor. The feathers are

217

employed for many purposes; the Indians make
of them plumes, parasols, &c. M. de Pauw,
who frequently loses sight of the title of his
Iwork, represents the cheuque as a degenerate
species of the African ostrich, because it has
three toes instead of two; hut were these birds
of the same species, which is far from being the
case, I am of opinion that the term degenerate
would be more applicable to the African ostrich,
as being less perfect in its limbs, than to that of
America.

The pequen (strix cunicularia) a species of
the owl, is remarkable for the large burrows
which it makes in the ground to deposit its eggs.
Feuille asserts that he himself had endeavoured
to dig to the end of one of them, but was
obliged to relinquish the attempt. This bird is
of the size of a pigeon, but its beak is very strong
and crooked, it has large nostrils, and large eyes
with a yellow iris; the upper part of its body is
grey, spotted with white, the lower part of a
dirty white; the tail, which scarcely extends be-
yond the quills of the wings, is of the same
colour ; its thighs are covered with feathers,
and the feet with tubercles, upon which are some
short hairs ; the toes are strong, and armed with
black crooked talons. It is not so averse to light
as others of its species, and is frequently seen by
day in company with the female, near the mouth
of its hole. Its principal food is insects and rep-

218

tiles, the remains of which are often found ia
small fragments before its hole Its cry is lu-
gubrious and broken, and imitative of its name.
The eggs are usually four, and are white spotted
with yellow. The Abbe Feuille praises the
flesh of this bird, but I never could learn that it
was eaten by the inhabitants.

The tharu (falco tharus) is a species of eagle
very common in Chili, of the size of a capon.
The male is whitish, marked with black spots,
and has upon its head a kind of crown formed
of black feathers, longer at the sides than the
middle. Its back is whitish like that of the
common eagle ; the feet are yellow, and covered
with scales, and the toes armed with crooked
talons ; the great feathers of the wings and the
tail are black. The female is less than the male,
is of a grey colour, and has a black comb upon
her head. This bird builds its nest upon the
loftiest trees, with sticks placed in the manner of
a square grate, upon which it heaps a considerab-
le quantity of wool, tow, and feathers. It lays
five white eggs, speckled with brown, and feeds
upon several kinds of animals, and even upon
carcasses, but is never seen openly to pursue its
prey like others of its species, but seizes it by
stratagem. The malewalks erect with an air of
gravity ; his cxy is harsh and disagreeable, and
whenever he utters it he throws his hea4 hack
upon his rump.

219

The jota (vultur jota) resembles much i he
aura, a species of vulture, of which there is
perhaps but one variety. It is distinguished,
however, by the beak, which is grey with a black
point. All the plumage is black, except the
quills of the wings, which are brown ; its head
is destitute of feathers, and covered with a
wrinkled skin of a reddish colour ; the legs are
brown. It acquires its colour with age; for
when it is young it is almost white, and does not
begin to change until after it has quitted the nest.
The first black spots appears upon the back, and
is very small, but extends gradually over the
whole body. Notwithstanding the size of this
bird, which is nearly that of the turkey, and its
strong and crooked talons, it attacks no other,
but feeds principally upon carcasses and reptiles.
It is extremely indolent, and will frequently
remain for a long time almost motionless, with
its wings extended, sunning itself upon the rocks
or the roofs of the houses. When in pain, which
is the only time that it is known to make any
noise, it utters a sharp cry like that of a rat, and
usually disgorges what it has eaten. The flesh
of this bird emits a fetid smell that is highly
offensive. The manner in which it builds its
nest is perfectly correspondent to its natural in-
dolence ; it carelessly places between rocks, or
even upon the ground, a few dry leaves or

4

220

feathers, upon which it lays two eggs of a dirty
white.

The bird universally known in Peru by the

name of condor (vultur gryphus) is in Chili

called manque, and is unquestionably the largest

that has the power of supporting itself in the

air. Linnaeus makes its wings, when extended,

sixteen feet from one extremity to the other, but

the largest that I have seen was but fourteen feet

a^ti some inches. , Its body is much larger than

that of the royal eagle, and is entirely covered

w,fh black lie fibers, excepting the back, which

is white. The neck is encircled with a white

fringe, composed of projecting feathers about

av. indi in length. The head is covered with

short and thin hairs, the irides of the eyes are of

a reddish brown, and the pupils black. The

beak is four inches long, very large and crooked,

black at its base, and white towards the point.

The greater quills of the wings are usually two

feet nine inches long, and one third of an inch in

diameter. The thigh is ten inches and two thirds

i i I th, but the leg does not exceed six inches ;

the fool is furnished with four strong toes, the

hindmost of which is about two inches loner,

w.th but one joint, and a black nail an inch in

len^h ; the middle toe has three joints, it is

nearly six inches long, and is terminated by a

crooked whitish uail of two inches ; the other

221

toes are a little shorter, and are armed with strong
and crooked talons. The tail is entire,, but small
in proportion to the size of the bird. The
female is less than the male, and of a brownish
colour; she has no fringe about the neck, but a
small tuft upon the hinder part of it. She builds
her nest upon the most steep -and inaccessible
cliffs, and lays two white eggs larger than those
of the turkey.

The condors feed either upon carcasses, ot
upon animals which they kill themselves, and
thus supply the place of wolves, which are
unknown in Chili. They frequently attack
flocks of sheep or goats, and even calves when
they are separated from the cows. In the latter
case there are always several of them together,
who fly upon the calf with their wings extended,
dig out its eyes, and in a few moments tear it in
pieces.

The husbandmen make use of every stratagem
to destroy so dangerous a bird. For this purpose
they sometimes envelope themselves in the skin of
an ox newly slayed, and place themselves on
their backs upon the ground; the condor, de-
ceived by the appearance, approaches the sup-
posed dead animal to devour it, when the person
within, whose hands are protected by strong
gloves, dexterously seizes the legs of the bird,
and holds it until his companions, concealed hard
by, run up to his assistance, and dispatch it with
clubs. Another mode is to form a small circular

222

enclosure * ith palisades, in which is placed the
carcass of some animal. The condors, who pos-
sess great acuteness of sight and smell, are imme-
diately attracted thereby, and as they are extremely
voracious, they gorge themselves to such a degree
with food, that not being able readily to rise,
and obstructed by the narrowness of the enclo-
sure, they are easily killed by those who lie in
wait for them. The condor, however, possesses
great strength of wing, and though filled with
food, if it can once raise itself, or is upon an
eminence, it will fly with great swiftness, and
soon disappears in the air. M. de Bomare ob-
serves, that there is very little difference, except
in its colour, between the condor and the laem-
mergeyer of Switzerland ; and I am of opinion
that it is only a variety of the same species.

Of bats, an animal that holds a middle station
between birds and quadrupeds, there are but two
species in Chili : the house-bat, which is in no
respect different from the European, and the
mountain-bat, which is of the same size and
shape, and distinguishable only by its being of
an orange colour. Neither of these are vara-
pyres, as are those of the southern torrid zone,
but feed entirely upon insects.

Sect. VI. Quadrupeds. — I have already esti-
mated the number of quadrupeds in Chili at
thiity-six species, without including those that
have been imported. I have even excepted the

hog' and the dog, although I do not consider
them as proceeding from a European stock, as
the proper names which they both have in the
Chilian language distinguished them from foreign
animals. Even Acosta, who wrote shortly after
the conquest, does not venture to give a decisve
opinion respecting the origin of the domestic
hog of Peru. The hog of Chili, called by the
Indians cliancliu, is similar in its appearance to
that of Europe ; it is full as large, and generally
white, in which respect it differs from that of
Peru, which is always black.

As to the dog, without pretending that all
the kinds at present found in the country were
there before the arrival of the Spaniards, I have
reason to believe that the little barbet, called
kiltho, and the common dog, thegua in Chilian,
the breeds of which are found in all parts of
America, as far as Cape Horn, were known in
Chili before that period. These dogs, it is true,
bark like those of Europe, but this is not a con-
clusive reason for supposing them to be derived
from that race. The general opinion that the
American dog is dumb, has unquestionably arisen
from the circumstance of the first conquerors
haven given similar names to those animals of
the new world, which bore some resemblance to
those of the old. This is confirmed by the
learned Abbe Clavigero, who, in his History of
Mexico, says that the first Spaniards who came

224

to that country gave the name of dog to the
techici,* a dumb animal, resembling the dog in
its appearance, but of a very different genus.
This external resemblance has given rise event-
ually to the opinion that the American dogs never
bark, and many naturalists, who incautiously
adopt this error, have been the means of perpet-
uating it to the present day. Another opinion,
equally destitute of foundation, is, that the Eu-
ropean dogs that were left on the island of Juan
Fernandez, at the time it was uninhabited, had
lost their voices, and were unable to bark, which
I have been well assured by the present inhabit-
ants is an utter falsehood.

The erroneous names given to particular
animals, many of which are still retained, have
proved very injurious to the natural history of
America. From this source have proceeded
those visionary hypothesis of the degeneracy of
its quadrupeds, the supposed little stags, bears,
and boars of that country, considered as so many
pigmy breeds, although they have no other con-
nection with the pretended primitive race than
these ill-applied names. A very respectable
modern author mentions as a proof of this de-
generacy, the ant-eater, called by some authors
the ant-bear, and considered as a degenerate spe-

*The cn>b-:ater, or dog crab-eater, so called from its feed-
ing r. rincip.ilv upon crabs.

225

cies of the bear. But this quadruped differs
essentially from the bear in other respects than
its size, and all well -in formed naturalists are
agreed t^ai this animal belongs neither to the
genus nor the order' of bears ; it is of course
ridiculous to bring forward in support of this
hypothesis, two animals so distinct as to have
nothing in common but a name so improperly
given to os^e of them. I could adduce a great
number of instances of this kind, were I to go
through with the various quadrupeds of America
that have been considered as species of the old
continent, altered by the physical influence of
the new.

South America possesses but a very few spe-
cies of animals that are similar to those of the
old world, and these have preserved their origi-
nal appearance, or rather, as might be expected
from the influence of so mild a climate, have
improved it. Of this number, in Chili, are the
the fox, the hare, the otter, and the mouse.
The foxes are of three kinds : the guru, or the
common fox, the cliilla, or the field fox, and the
<payne-guru, or the blue fox. This last is verj
common in the Archipelago of Chiloe, where it
is black. All these foxes are of the same size as
the European fox.

In its form the bare of Chili resembles that of
Eur pe, but is superior to it in size, for it is
sometimes found of twenty pounds weight, a
vol. I. q

22(5

fact confirmed by Commodore Byron, whose
sailors killed several of them upon the coast of
Patagonia. These hares are found in great
njiinbers in the provinces of Coquimbo, Pucha-
cay, and Huilquiiemu. The flesh is perfectly
white, and of a much superior flavour to that of
the European hare. The otter inhabits the fresh
waters of the southern provinces, and differs in
no respect from that of Europe. The rat has
been imported in foreign * vessels, and of the
mouse there are various species; the domestic
mouse, the ground mouse, and several others,
which I shall more particularly describe here-
after.

In confining the number of quadrupeds in
Chili to thirty-six species, I have reference only
to those that are well known ; but I am fully
persuaded that, there is a much greater number,
especially in the interior of the Andes, that are
as yet undiscovered or very imperfectly known.

* A ship from Antwerp, which went through the strait?, is
said to have carried the first rats to America. They appeared
in Chili, and multiplied there so as to be very mischievous, but
in Ovalles time they were still confined to the coast. (L 1.
C 21.) The first cat which was taken k> America was pre-
sented by Montenegro to Ahuagro, who gave hrm in return
six hundred piec* . Whittington's cat hardly turned out a
better venture. This is a good trait in Almagro's character —
one of the best-hearted men among all the conqueror-. — E.E.

Herrera, Dec. 5. L /. C Q.

227

This opinion is confirmed by the common tradi-
tions of the country ; and I have been informed
Of eight new species that have been discovered
at various times ; but as the descriptions I have
received of them have been very imperfect, and
the animals have been seen but by few, I have
thought them not sufficiently characterized to
merit a place among those whose economy is
well known.

Such., for instance, is the piguchen, a winged
quadruped, or species of large bat, which, if its
existence is real, forms a very important link
between birds and quadrupeds. This animal is
said to be of the size and shape of a tame rab-
bit, and to be covered with fine hair of a cinna-
mon colour; the nose sharp, the eyes round and
shining, the ears almost invisible, the wings
membranaceous, the paws short and like those
of the lizard, the tail round at the root, and
ending like that of a fish. It inhabits holes in
trees, which it leaves only at night, and does
no injury tG any thing but insects, which serve
it for food.

Of this kind is likewise the hippopotamus of
the rivers and the lakes of Arauco, which is dif-
ferent from that of Africa, and in its form and
stature resembles the horse, but the feet are
palmated like those of the seal. The existence
of this animal is universally credited through-
out the country, and there are some persons who

<*3

23S

pretend to have seen the skin, which, they say,
is covered with a very soft and sleek hair, re-
sembling in colour that of the sea-wolf.

But leaving the examination of these animals
to those who have an opportunity of making
farther discoveries respecting them, I shall pro-
ceed to treat of those that are known, which I
shall divide into those that have toes, or are di-
gitated, and those that are hoofed. This divi-
sion, although imperfect, appears to me to be
better adapted than a more technical one, for the
arrangement of so small a number of species.
Those which have toes are either web-footed or
cloven-footed. The former live in the water,
and feed upon fish. Those who inhabit the sea
are the following : *

The urigne (phoca lupina). This species of
phoca, which the French and Spaniards call the
sea- wolf, differs* but little from the common seal;
this difference principally consists in its size and
colour. It is from three to six and even eight
feet in length ; and its colour is brown, grey,
and sometimes whitish, but all of these are
merely varieties of the same species. This
animal is large forward, but gradually diminishes,
like a fish, towards the hinder feet, which are
united within the same skin, and form the extre-
mity of its body. It is covered with two kinds
of hair, one stiffj and the other soft like that of
an ox. The head is large and round, and re-

229

sembles that of a dog with the ears cut off, and
instead of the latter it has two oblique holes
which serve for the same purpose. The eyes are
large, globular, and furnished with long eye-
lashes ; the nose is like that of the calf, as is the
tongue ; the muzzle is short and blunt, with
long whiskers, the lips being of equal size, but
the upper a little channelled like that of the
lion. The teeth are thir ty- four in number : ten
incisors, four canine, and twenty grinders. The
fore feet, or more properly fins, have two very
perceptible joints, one corresponding with the
shoulder-blade, the other with the elbow ; the
metacarpal bones and the toes are cartilaginous,
and enclosed in a membraneous sheath, which
performs the office of a fore paw. Each of
these feet has four toes, which distinguishes this
from the other species of the phoca. The ex-
tremity of the body, which is tapered almost to
a point, is divided into two \ery hort parts, re-
presenting the hind feet, the joints of which are
very visible. These feet are furnished with five
fingers of an unequal length, like those on the
hand of a man, united from the first to the third
joint by a rough membrane, which completely
envelopes each finger, and even extends beyond it.
At the junction of the hind feet is situated the
tail, which is about three inches in length. In
both sexes the generative parts are placed at the
lower part of the belly. They usually copu-

Q3

230

late the latter part of autumn, and the female
brings forth her young in the spring, of which
she has generally two, sometimes three at a birth.
She is distinguished from the male by a longer
neck, and a more delicate and beautiful form.
The urigne abounds in blood, which, whenever
it is wounded, flows from it in great quantities;
like many other aquatic animals, it has beneath
the skin a covering of soft fat ; this is fhe inches
in thickness, and easily reducible to oil. Not-
withstanding the inconvenient conformation of
their feet for that purpose, they readily climb
up the rocks, on which they are fond of sleeping,
though they walk very badly, or rather draw
themselves, when on shore from one place to
another. It would, however, be very imprudent
to approach them carelessly, for although so
heavy and clumsy in appearance, their necks have
great flexibility, and they are capable of inflict-
ing severe wounds with their long teeth.

These phocae swim with great swiftness, and
make use principally of their hind feet, which they
extend in a straight line,, so as at a distance to re-
semble the tail of a fish. They cannot re sain
long under water, and frequently raise their
heads to breathe, tor to watch the approach of
penguins and other aquatic birds, of which they
make their prey. The cry of the old urignes
resembles the roaring of a bull or the grunting
of a hog, while that of the young is more like

231

the bleating of a sheep. They are common
upon all the coast of Chili, and in the islands;
where, every year, the inhabitants kill a vast
number of them with clubs, a slight blow across
the nose, which is their most tender part, being
sufficient to dispatch them. The skin is em-
ployed for various purposes, particularly for
making a kind of float, which is used in fishing
and in passing rivers. This consists of two large
balloons, from eight to nine feet in length, formed
of these skins, carefully joined and sewed, and
inflated with air; upon these are placed several
pieces of wood laid transversely, which will con*
tain one or more persons. When the skin is well
dressed it resembles coarse-grained morocco
leather, but is superior to it in point of con-
sistency and durability; shoes and boots are also
made of it that are impenetrable to water. The
oil which is obtained from the fat forms a con-
siderable article of commerce with the inhabit-
ants of Chiloe. It is used in dressing leather,
and, when clarified, for burning, and is preferred
to that of the whale, as it keeps better, and re-
tains its clearness for a longer time. The sailors
make use of it for frying their fish, and the taste
is not unpleasant when it is fresh. In the sto-
mach of this animal are frequently found stones
of several pounds weight, which it probably
swallows to triturate its food, and accelerate the
process of digestion.

q4

232

The sea-hog (phoca porcina) resembles the
urigne in its shape, hair, and manner of living,
but differs from it in the conformation of its
mouth, which is longer, and resembles the snout
of a hog. Its ears are likewise more raised, and
the fore feet divided into five very distinct toes,
covered with a membrane. This phoca, which
is from three to four feet in length, is but rarely
met with on the coast of Chili.

The lame, sea-elephant, or elephantine seal
(phoca elephantica) is similar in form to the
preceding, but distinguished from it by very
striking characteristics. It is of a very great
size, being frequently fifteen feet in circunir
ference around the breast, and twenty-two feet
in length Upon its nose is a comb, or glandular
trunk, extending from the forehead beyond the
upper lip, and serving as a species of defensive
armour against blows, which upon that part are
almostalways fatal. The tusks of the lower jaw
project at least four inches from it, and this sin-
gularity, together with the trunk, give it some
faint resemblance to the elephant. The feet are
divided into five toes, half covered with a cori-
aceous membrane indented upon the sides, each
furnished with a strong crooked nail. The ears,
at first sight, appear to be truncated, but, on
nearer view, are found to be nearly half an inch
long, and in shape like those of a dog. The
skin is thicker than that of the urigne, and co-

233

vered with short, thick, and soft hair, the colour
of which is various, being a mixture of dun,
yellow, grey, and dirty white. The female is of
a less size, and not so fat as the male, and
ha-, but a slight appearance of a trunk upon the
nose.

Lord Anson has improperly called this animal
the sea-lion; and Linnaeus, from his authority,
)ias denominated it phoca leoni:ia, an appellation
much more appropriate to another animal of the
same genus, but of a very different species.
The lames are found in the greatest numbers on
the island of Juan Fernandez, the Araucanian
coast, the Archipelago of Chiloe, and the Straits
of Magellan They herd together in large
companies, and during the summer are almost
continually in the sea, but on the commencement
of winter they go on shore, where they bring
forth their young. They copulate, like the
urignes, by raising themselves on their hind feet,
and have the same number of young with them.
\Vhen on shore they frequent miry places, where
they wallow and frequently sleep, placing, as a
sentinel, one of their number upon a rising
ground, who gives notice of the approach of any
danger by frightful bowlings.

The sea-elephant is the largest of the phoca,
and produces more oil than any of the others; it
is so fat that, whenever it moves, the oil is -seen
to undulate beneath (he skin, The males appear

2*4

to be very amorous, and frequently fight for the
exclusive possession of the females, until the
death of one of them terminates the contest ;
from this cause the skins of so many of them are
covered with scars. Whenever the males fight,
the females retire apart, awaiting the issue of a
combat which is to place them in possession of
the victor,

The sea-lion (phoca leonina) is of a better
proportioned and more elegant form than any
other species of phoca, though like the rest its
shape is conical. It is covered with a yellowish
hair, which from the shoulders to the tail is
short, but on the neck and near the head is as
long as that of a goat, and forn.s a very percepti-
ble mane, that distinguishe this from every other
kind of phoca. The Indians call it thopel-Iame,
that is, the lame with a mane. Its head resem-
bles that of the lion,, it has a large flat nose,
without hair from the middle to the tip ; the ears
are almost round, and stand out about two-thirds
of an inch from the head; its eyes, the pupils of
which are greenish, are very bright and spark-
ling, and the upper lip is furnished with long
white whiskers, like those of a tiger. The
mouth is very wide, and has thirty-four teeth set
deep in the jaw, which are very large and solid,
and as white as ivory ; the middle teeth are
about four inches in length, and an inch and a
half in diameter ; the incisors do not project

233

from the mouth, like those of the lame, but their
disposition is similar to those of the urigne. In
the conformation of the hinder feet it also re-
sembles that animal, except that those of the sea-
lion are palmated. The fore feet are cartilagi-
nous, very short in proportion to its size, divided
into five toes, terminated by nails, and united by
a membra ;e, in the manner of those of the ele-
phantine seal. The tail is about nine inches
long", and is round and black.

The female is much smaller than the male, and
has no mane; it has two teats, and produces but
one young at a birth, towards which it discovers
great affection. The Abbe Pernetty, in the ac-
count of his voyage to the Malouine islands,
mentions his having seen sea-lions of twenty-two
feet in length, but the largest that I have seen in
Chili did not exceed thirteen or fourteen feet.
These animals are very fat, and no less san-
guineous than the urigne. When wounded,
they immediately throw themselves into the sea,
and leave a long track of blood behind them,
which serves as a guide for the lames and urignes,
who in this state of weakness attack and easily
overcome and devour them. This disposition,
however, His not reciprocal, as the sea-lion never
attempts to harm any of the other phocas, even
when they are unable to protect themselves.

I have been informed by the fishermen that
they have occasionally seen in these seas various
3

T3G

other kinds of phocae, which may be similar to
those found in the North Sea, described by
Steller, and very probably some that are entirely
unknown to naturalists, for I am of opinion that
this genus is more abundant in species than is
generally imagined.

The chinchim en (mustela felina) called by the
Spaniards the sea-cat, is about twenty inches in
length from the muzzle to the root of the tail.
It has a strong resemblance to a cat in its head,
cars and eyes, and in the shape and length of its
tail. The nose is furnished with whiskers, and
it has thirty-two teeth: twelve incisors which
are straight and sharp-pointed, four canine teeth,
and sixteen grinders. Each foot has five pal-
mated toes, terminated by strong crooked nail:.
The skin, like that of the otter, is covered with
two kinds of hair, of a light grey colour, one
very short and soft, the other longer and harsh.
This animal lives almost altogether in the sea,
but is only seen in pairs, and never in companies.
In pleasant weather it is fond of basking in the
sun, and is frequently taken in snares upon the
rocks, whither at such times it is accustomed to
resort. The chinchimen has a hoarse cry like
the tiger, it is as ferocious as the wild-cat, and
like that animal springs at any one that ap~
preaches it.

Besides the otler, of which I have already
spoken, the fresh waters of Chili are inhabited
by the guillinu and the coypu.

The guilltno (castor Huidobrius) which I
have thus named in memory of a deceased friend
of great literary attainments, Don Ignaeius
Huidobrio, Marquis of Casa Reale, is a species
of beaver, in high estimation for the fineness of
its fur. Its length, from the end of the nose to
the insertion of the tail, is about three feet, and
its height two. The colour of the hair is grey,
dark upon the back, and whitish on the belly ;
of this, like the northern beaver, it has two
kinds, the one short and fine and softer than that
of a rabbit, the other long and coarse and easily
detached from the skin. The short fur readily
takes any colour, and I have seen cloth manu-
factured from it dyed black and blue, which
had all the beauty of velvet ; it is also used for
making hats, that are no way inferior to the real
beaver. The head of this animal is almost
square, the ears are short and round, and the eyes
small, the nose is blunt, and the mouth is fur-
nished with two very sharp incisors in each jaw,
and with sixteen grinders ; on each foot it has
five toes, those before are edged with a narrow
membrane, and the hinder ones are palmated ;
its back is very broad, and the tail long, flat, and
covered with hair. The guillino produces no
substance analogous to the castor ; it inhabits

233

the rivers and the deepest lakes, and can remain
a long time under water without respiring. It
feeds upon fish and crabs, and is usually sur-
prised and killed by the hunters when it goes to
void its excrements, which it regularly does
every day, like a cat, in the same place. It is a
voracious animal, and so fearless that it fre-
quently robs the nets and baskets of fish in the
presence of the fishermen. The female has two
or three young at a litter, and the period of ges-
tation, if I am not misinformed,, is about five
months*.

The coypu (mus coypu) is a species of water-
rat, of the size of the otter, which it resembles
in its hair and external appearance. It has
round ears, and a long nose covered with whis-
kers ; the feet are short, the tail large and of a
moderate length well covered with hair, and in
each jaw are two very sharp incisors. The feet
have each five toes, those of the fore feet are un-
connected by a membrane, but those of the hind
are palmated. Though the conformation of
this animal evinces that it is intended as an in-
habitant of the water, it nevertheless lives very
well upon the land, and even in houses, where it
is easily tamed, and soon becomes reconciled to
a domestic state. It eats any thing that is given
it, and appears to be susceptible of much at-
tachment to the person who feeds it. Its cry is
a sharp shriek, but it never utters it except when

2S9

hart. With a little patience and care, it might
be rendered still more useful than the otter for
the purpose of taking fish. The female has five
or six young at a birth., by whom she is always
accompanied.

Of the cloven-footed terrestrial quadrupeds of
Chili, some are gramenivorous, or such as feed
upon vegetables., and others carnivorous; of the
latter are the chinghue, the cuja, the quiqui, the
porcupine, the culpeu, the gmgna, the colocolo,
and the pagi.

The chinghue (viverra chinga) is of the size
of a cat; its colour is black inclining to blue,
except upon the back, which is marked with a
broad stripe, composed of round white spots,
extending from the forehead to the tail. The
head is long, tiie ears are broad and well covered
with hair, the eves large with black pupils, the
nose is sharp, the upper lip extended beyond the
lower, and the mouth, which is deeply cleft,
contains twelve incisorial teeth, four sharp ca-
nine, and sixteen grinders. The hind feet are
longer than the fore, and on each foot are five
toes armed with nails, which serve the animal to
dig deep burrows in the earth, where it secures
its young. It always carries its head down, ad.
the tail,. which is covered with long hair, turned
over upon its back like the- squirrel.

The uriae of the chinghue is not, as is gene-
rally supposed, fetid, but the odour, so disgusting

to every other animal, proceeds from a greenish
oil contained in a vesicle placed, as in the pole-
cat, near the anus. When the animal is at-
tacked, it elevates its posteriors and scatters this
loathsome liquid upon its assailant. Nothing
can equal the oifensiveness of its smell; it pene-
trates every where, and may be perceived at a
great distance. Garments that are infected with
it cannot be worn for a long- time, and not until
repeated washings; and the dogs, after having
been engaged with the cliinghuc, run to the
water, roll themselves in the mud, howl as if
they were mad, and will eat nothing as long as
the smell continues about them.

The chingliue, when attacked, never makes use
of its teeth or claws, but relies entirely upon this
singular mode of defence. It appears to be at-
tached to the society of men, and approaches
them without the least apprehension, boldly en-
ters the country-houses to search for eggs, and
passes fearlessly through the midst of the doirs,
who instead of attacking him generally fly at Ms
approach. The husbandmen themselves are
averse to shooting this animal on such occasions,
lest, should they fail of killing it outright, they
should be annoyed by its nauseous stench. In
order to free themselves from this unwelcome vi-
sitor, they have recourse to another method,
v/hich is attended with less risk. Some of the
company begin by caressing' it, until an oppor*

241

tunity offers for one of them to seize it by the
tail and hold it suspended. In this position the
muscles becoming contracted, the animal is un-
able to eject the fluid, and is dispatched with
safety. The chinghue, however, never has re-
course to this mode of annoyance against those
of its own species, but employs in righting* with
them its teeth and claws. It preys upon eggs
and poultry, which it is very dexterous in taking.
Its skin is closely covered with very soft long
hair, and retains nothing of that offensive smell
which might naturally be supposed. The In-
dians, when they can obtain a sufficient number
of these skins, make of them coverings for their
beds, which they value highly for their beauty
and the softness of the hair.

The caja (mustela cuja) is a small animal re-
sembling a ferret in its size, form, and teeth, and
also in the disposition of its toes, and its manner
of living. The eyes are black, and the nose a
little turned up at the end like a hog's ; its hair
is black, thick, and extremely soft, and the tail,
which is of the length of its body, is closely co-
vered with it. Its principal food is mice, which
it is in constant pursuit of. The female breeds
twice a year, and has four or five young at a
birth.

The quiqui { mustela quiqui) is a species of
weasel of a brown colour, thirteen inches long
from the nose to the tail. The head is flat, the

VOL. I. R

242

cars short and round, the eyes small and sunken,
the nose cuneiform, the nostrils compressed,
with a white spot between them, the month
broad like that of a toad, and the legs and tail
short. It has twelve incisors, the same number
of grinders , and four canine teeth, and the
tongue is very slender and smooth. The paws
resemble those of the lizard, and have five toes
armed with very crooked nails. It is naturally
ferocious, and so very irascible, that the in-
habitants give the name of quiqui to those per-
sons who are easily irritated. It lives under
ground, and feeds upon mice and moles like the
cuja ; the female breeds several times in a year,
and always produces the same number at a
birth.

The porcupine (histrix Chilensis) is found in
the northern Andes of Chili. The inhabitants
kill them for the sake of their skins. I have
never seen this animal, but from the description
which I have had of it, it differs little or nothing
from the histrix prensile, or coandu of Brasil.

The cuipcu (canis culpasus) is a wild dog, or
rather a species of large fox, differing but little
from the common fox, except in its size and its
colour, which is a dark brown, and in having a
long straight tail covered with short hair like
that of the common dog. From the point of
the nose to the root of the fail it is two and a
half feet in length, and its height is about twen-

243

ty-two inches. The shape of its ears, the po-
sition of its eyes, its teeth, and the disposition
of its toes, are precisely like those of the fox ;
like that aninal it also burrows in the fields.
Its cry is feeble, and resembles the barking of a
little dog; and it preys upon small animals.
Whenever the culpeu perceives a man, it comes
straight towards him, and at the distance of five
or six paces stops and looks attentively at him.
If the person does not move, the animal remains
for some minutes in this situation, and without
attempting to do him any injury retires. This
singular curiosity of the culpeu is so well known
to the inhabitants, that no one is afraid of it, and
I have myself several times met with it in the
woods, when it has uniformly acted in the same
manner. The name appears to be derived from
the Chilian word culpcvi, which signifies mad-
ness or folly, and is strikingly applicable to the
conduct of this animal, which constantly ex-
poses it to be shot by the hunters, and is probably
the reason why it is less common in Chili than
the fox, though it is equally prolific. It is men-
tioned by Commodore Byron, who saw it in the
Falkland islands, and supposed it at first some
ferocious wild beast, from the manner of its ap-
proaching his men. Although the culpeu does
not appear to be stronger than the fox, it is with
much difficulty that a dog can overcome it.
The guigna Qfelis guigna) and the colocolo
r2

244

(felis colocolo) are two species of wild-cat?
which inhabit the forests. They resemble the
domestic cat,, hut have a larger head and tail.
The guigna is of a fawn colour, marked with
round black spots about five lines in diameter,
extending- along- the back to the end of the tail.
The colocolo has a white body, marked with
irregular black and yellow spots, and the tail is
encircled with black rings. They prey upon
mice and birds, and sometimes are seen near
country-houses, whither they are attracted by the
poulfry. I have been informed by some of the
inhabitants that there are several other species of
the wild-cat, but I have seen only the two de-
scribed above.

The pagi (felis puma) called by the Mexi-
cans Tfiitzli, and in Peru puma, the name by
which it is best known to naturalists, has by the
Spaniards been denominated the lion, which it
resembles in its shape and its roaring, but is
wholly destitute of a mane. The hair on the
upper part of its body is of a greyish ash-colour,
marked with yellow spots, and is longer than that
of the tiger, particularly on the buttocks, but
that on the belly is of a dusky white* Its length
from the nose to the root of the tail is about five
feet, and its height from the bottom of the foot
to the shoulder twenty-six and a half inches. It
has a round head shaped much like that of a cat,
the ears are short and pointed, the eyes large with

245

yellow irides and brown pupjls. Its nose is broad
and flat, the muzzle short, the upper lip entire
and furnished with whiskers, the mouth deep,
and the tongue large and rough. In each jaw it
has four incisors, four sharp-pointed canine teeth,
and sixteen grinders. Its breast is broad, the
paws have each five toes armed with very strong
nails, and its tail is upwards of two feet in length,
and like that of the tiger.

The number of toes ou the hinder feet would
alone be a sufficient characteristic to distinguish
it from the real lion, which has but four. The
pagi may, however, be considered as an inter-
mediate species between the lion and the tiger.
Its cry, although not so loud, differs not mate-
rially from -the roaring of the African lion, but
in the season of its loves becomes changed into a
shrill whistle, or rather a frightful hiss like that
of a serpent. The female is rather less than the
male, and is of a paler colour ; like the African
lioness, she has two dugs, and brings forth but
two young at a time. The season of copulation
is the end of winter, and the period of gestation
three months.

.Such is the lion of Chili ; it may, perhaps, in
other parts*f>f America, oifer some shades of dis-
crimination, as I have been informed that those
of Peru have a longer and more pointed muzzle.
The pagi inhabits the thickest forests and the
most inaccessible mountains, from whence it

r3

246

makes incursions into the plains to attack domes-
tic animals, particularly horses, whose flesh it
prefers to that of any other. In its mode of
seizing its prey it resembles the cat; it ap-
proaches it by drawing- itself upon its belly,
glides softly through the shrubs and bushes, con*
ceals itself in the ditches, or, if it shews itself, as-
sumes a mild and fawning appearance, and,
watching the favourable opportunity of seizing
the animal which it has marked for its victim, at
one leap fastens itself upon its back, seizes it with
its left paw and teeth in such a manner as to
render it impossible for it to escape, while with
the right paw in a few minutes it tears it to
pieces. It then sucks the blood, devours the
flesh of the breast, and carries the carcass into
the nearest wood, where it conceals it with leaves
and boughs of trees, in order to eat it at its
leisure.

As it is a common practice for the husband-
men to fasten two of their horses together in the
fields, whenever the pagi finds them in this situa-
tion it kills one and drags it away, compelling
the other ti follow by striking it from time to
time with its paw, and in this manner almost al-
ways succeeds in getting possession of both.*

* The wolf is said occasionally to adopt a similar mode of
securing its prey. I have been assured by an intelligent
■foreigner, that it is not unfrequent in Frante for that animal,
when the presence of the shepherd, cr any other circumstance,

247

Its favourite haunts are the streams to which
animals usually repair to drink, where it conceals
itself upon a tree, and scarcely ever fails of
seizing one of them. The horses, however, have
an instinctive dread of these places, and even
when pressed by thirst approach them with great
precaution, carefully examining upon every side
to discover if there is danger. At other times
one of the boldest goes forward, and on finding
the place secure, gives notice to his companions
by neighing in a sprightly manner.

The cows defend themselves well against the
pagi ; as soon as he appears Nthey range them-
selves in a circle around their calves, with their
horns turned towards their assailant, await his
attack in that position, and not unfrequently de-
stroy him.

The mares, when there are a number of them,
place themselves in the same manner, though in
an inverted order, around their colts, and attempt
to repel their enemy with their heels, but one of
them almost always becomes a victim to this
proof of maternal love. All those animals that
have not young, on the approach of the pagi at-
tempt to save themselves by flight ; the ass alone,
from his want of speed, is compelled to defend

prevents it from killing the sheep which it has singled out for
its victim at its leisure, to seize it ly the wool of the neck, and
compel it to go off with it ly striking it with its £a//..„.Amer.
Traus.

R 4

248

himself with his heels, which frequently proves
successful ; but should the pagi, notwithstanding
his efforts, leap upon his back, he immediately
throws himself on the ground, and endeavours to
crush him, or runs with all his force against the
trunks of trees, holding his head down so as not
to dislocate his neck. By these means he gene-
rally succeeds in freeing himself from his as-
sailant, and there are but few asses destroyed by
an enemy so frequently fatal to much stronger
animals.

Notwithstanding his ferocity, the pagi never
Tentures to attack a man, although he is conti-
nually hunted and persecuted by the latter. He
is naturally a coward, and a woman or child will
make him fly and abandon his prey. He is
hunted with dogs trained for the purpose, and
when hard pressed by them, either leaps upon a
tree, seeks an asylum upon a rock, or, placing
himself against the trunk of some large tree, de-
fends himself in a furious manner, killing many
of his enemies, until the hunter, watching his
opportunity, slips a noose around his neck. As
soon as the animal finds himself taken in this
manner, he roars terribly, and sheds a torrent of
tears. The skin serves for various uses ; good
leather for boots or shoes is manufactured from
it, and the fat is considered as a specific in the
sciatica.

Of the cloven-footed quadrupeds that feed

249

upon vegetables, the most remarkable in Chili
are the guanque, the chin chill a, the great wood-
mouse,, the covur, the cuy, and the visaccia.

The guanque (mus cyanus) is a species of
ground-mouse, which it resembles in its form
and iize, but its ears are rounder and its hair
blue. It is a very timid animal, and digs a
burrow in form of a gallery ten feet long, upon
each side of which it excavates seven cells of a
foot in depth opposite each other. These cells
serve as a place of deposit for its winter provi-
sion, which consists of certain grey bulbous
roots of the size of a walnut. Some pretend that
these are a species of truffle, to which they bear
some resemblance in taste, but I am rather in-
clined to believe them the roots of a plant. The
manner in which this little animal arranges these
roots is really admirable. They are of an an-
gular form, but in order to leave no vacant
spaces, it places them with such skill that, the
projecting angles of one root are fitted to the
hollows of "another.

In the rainy season, when the guanque can no
longer seek its food in the fields, it has recourse
to its winter hoard, and begins with the roots de-
posited in the farthest cells, as being the oldest,
and in this manner regularly proceeds from one
to the other. Its burrow is always very neat, and
it is careful to carry out of it all the fragments of
the roots which it has eaten. The female breeds

250

twice a year, in the spring and in the autumn,
and has six young at a litter. In the winter the
male and female, with the young of the last
breed, inhabit the same burrow, those of the
first being old enough to provide for themselves.
The provisions laid up in their magazines are
more than sufficient for the subsistence of this
little family, as every spring a number of the
old roots are found at the mouths of their holes,
which have been brought out to make room for
new. The country people are very fond of these
roots, and eagerly search for the burrows, which
they plunder and destroy without regard to the
fate of their innocent inhabitants.

The chinchilla (mus laniger) is another
species of ground-mouse or rat. Instead of hair
it is covered with an extremely fine and soft ash-
coloured wool, of a sufficient length for spinning.
This animal is about six inches long ; it has very
small ears, a short nose, teeth like those of the
common mouse, a id a tail of a moderate length,
covered with silky hair. It lives in the fields,
under ground, in large companies, and is princi-
pally found in the southern provinces ; its usual
food is the bulbous roots with which that part of
the country abounds. The female breeds twice a
year, and has five or six young at each birth. It
is an extremely gentle and mild animal, and may
be handled without the least danger of its biting,
nor will it attempt to escape, but on the contrary

251

appears to be pleased with being caressed. Tt is
very neat, has no o^en^ive smeii, and .nay be
kept, with verv little inconvenience, in a house,
and the trifling expense attending its keeping will
be amoly repaid by its beautiful wool. The an-
cient Peruvians employed this wool in the manu-
facture of several ki ds of cloth, to which they
attached great value

The great wood-mouse (mus Maulinus) is an
animal of more than twice the sizeof a marmot,
an w^s *irst discovered in 1164:, in a wood, in
the province of Maine, and so vigorous was the
defence that it made, that the dogs who attacked
it had much difficulty in overcoming it. Its hair
is of the same colour as that of the marmot, but
its ears are more pointed, the nose is longer, the
whiskers are disposed in four rows, it has four
toes on each foot, and it has a longer tail, and
closer covered with hair. The number and order
of the teeth are the same as those of the common
mouse.

The degu (sciurus degus) is a species of dor-
mouse, a little larger than the house-rat. Its
colour is a dirty white, except a blackish line
upon the shoulders, which reaches to the first
joint of the leg; the tail is terminated by a little
tuft of hair of the same colour as the body. The
head is short, the ears round, the nose sharp, and
furnished with whiskers; of the upper jaw the
two incisors are cuneiform, those of the lower
4

252

flat ; the fore feet have four toes, the hinder
five. The degu is a social animal, and is found
in the vicinity of St. J ago, in numerous compa-
nies, near the hedges or bushes, where they dig-
burrows that have a communication with each
other, and feed upon roots and fruit, of which
they lay in an ample store for the winter. It
does not, like the dormouse and the badger, sleep
during the winter, which is probably in a great
measure owing to the mildness of the climate.
These animals were formerly eaten by the inha-
bitants, but at present they make no use of them
whatever.

The covur, known to naturalists by the name
of tatoUf and by the Spaniards called the arma-
dillo, from the upper part of its body being co-
vered with a kind of bony armour, is very com-
mon in Cujo, where it is called quiriquincho. It
is of various sizes, being from six to thirteen
inches long, a magnitude, however, much infe-
rior to what it attains in the tropical regions. In
its external appearance, its fatness, and the
bristles which cover the lower part of the body,
the covur resembles the guinea-pig. Its head is
long, but the nose is short ; it has no teeth except
grinders ; the eyes are small, the cars naked, and
the tail is long and scaly like that of a rat. The
number of the toes vary according to the species.
The bony armour which covers the body of the
animal is composed of two parts, divided into

2bS

several bands let into each other, so that the ani-
mal can at its pleasure dilate or contract them.
The females are very prolific ; they have four
young' at a birth, and breed every month. The
flesh is delicate, and much preferable to that of
the guinea-pig.

In the valleys of the Andes are found four spe-
cies of this animal :

The pichi, or four banded covur, which is
about six inches in length.

The hairy, or the eight banded, which is
seven inches long, and covered with hair as well
above as below.

The mutillos, or the eleven banded, which is
very little larger than the preceding, but its ears
are much longer.

The bolas, or the eighteen banded, which is
the largest, and is thirteen inches in length from
the nose to the root of the tail.

These four species belong to the quiriquinci of
Button, a name which has been given them from
their possessing the property of contracting and
rolling themselves up like a ball. When they
are hard pressed by the hunters, they frequently
contract and roll themselves down a precipice,
like the hedge-hog, and usually escape without
injury, being protected by their coat of mail.
But they have not the same means of escape
when they are found in the plains; they are

254

then easily taken, and when they roll them-
selves up are compelled to resume their natural
form by means of fire. The three first kinds run
very fast in a straight line, being prevented by
the confoimation of their armour from making
turns. Whenth'jy get at a certain distance from
their pursuers, they endeavour to dig a hole in
the ground to conceal themselves, and hold so
fast with their fore paws that it is almost impos-
sible to force them away ; upon these occasions
the hunters have contrived a singular expedient
to make them quit their hoH, by introducing the
point of a small stick into the anus.

The cu\j ( lepus minimus ) is a species of small
rabbit, which has been by some confounded with
the guinea-pig, though it is not only distin-
guished from that animal by its form, but by its
generic character. It is a little larger than the
field-mouse, and its shape is nearly conical. The
ears are small, pointed and hairy, the nose is
long, and the teeth are precisely like those of the
hare and the rabbit ; its fore paws have four toes,
and the hinder five, and the tail is so short that it
can scarcely be seen. This animal has been do-
mesticated in Chili, and is of various colours,
white, brown, grey, and spotted. Its hair is very
fine and silky, but too short for spinning; the
flesh is very white, and delicately tasted. The
female breeds every month, and has from six to

255

eight young. The cuy, though it resemble the
rabbit, avoids its society,, and never copulates
with it. It is very much afraid of cats and rats,
which appear to be its destroyers. In Peru there
is an animal which bears the same name, and is
also domesticated, but as I have never seen it, I
cannot determine whether it is of the same spe-
cies or otherwise. It may be proper, however,
to observe, that cuy is a general name in America
for a number of little animals like rabbits, which
are mostly of the genus of the cavy.

The viscaclia (lepus viscacia) is an animal re-
sembling both the rabbit and the fox. It is rather
larger, but has the head, ears, mouth, whiskers,
teeth, feet, and nearly the same manner of feed-
ing as the rabbit. In its colour and tail it re-
sembles the fox ; the hair on the body is very fine
and soft, and is capable of being advantageously
employed for many purposes. The ancient Pe-
ruvians made beautiful cloths of it, and it is now
used in Chili for the manufacture of hats. The
tail, with which it defends itself against its ene-
mies, is very long, turned up, and covered with
long coarse hair. The viscaclia breeds in the
same manner as the rabbit. It lives under ground,
in a burrow consisting of two stories, which
communicate by means of a winding stair-way ;
the first story serves for a magazine for its pro-
visions, the other for a place of residence for it-
self and its young. In this it remains during the

256

clay, and only goes out at night, when if brings
to its hole whatever it meets with, even such ar-
ticles of wearing- apparel as have been dropped
by travellers. Its flesh is very white and tender.,
and is preferred to that of the hare or the
rabbit.

Of the horny-footed animals, or those that
have hoofs, whether single or divided, Chili fur-
nishes but five species that are indigenous. The
puda, the vicugna, the chilihucquc, the guanaco,
and the guemul or hucmul.

The puda (capra puda) is a species of wild
goat, with brown hair, of the size of a six
months kid; the male is furnished with very
very small horns, but the female is destitute.
The Spaniards call it the roe-buck, but very im-
properly, as it has no resemblance to that animal,
but every characteristic of the goat, except the
beard, and in having its horns round, smooth,
and diverging. On the approach of winter,
these animals, in very numerous flocks, come
down from the Andes, in order to feed in the
plains of the southern provinces. Great numbers
are then killed by the inhabitants for food, and
caught for the purpose of domesticating them,
which is easily done, as this animal is extremely
mild, and is much delighted in playing with
children.

The vicugna, the chilihucque, and the guanaco,
may be considered as so many inferior species of

3 "

257

th« camel,, to which may he added the alpaca and
the llama of Peru. All these animals have a
great resemblance to the camel, although they
are smaller, and their forms are more elegant and
better turned ; like the camel they have a small
head without horns, a very long neck, middle-
sized ears, large and round eyes, a short muzzle,
the upper lip more or less deft, the legs longer
than the size of the body appears to require, the
feet divided, the tail short, and the hair long,
and of a sufficient fineness for spinning. Their
genital parts are similar to those of the camel,
and the males, in like manner, void their urine
backwards. In their internal conformation they
differ but little from the camel, and, like all ru-
minating animals, have four stomachs; the
second of which contains, between the two mem-
branes that compose it, a great number of ca-
vities which appear to be intended solely for re-
servoirs of water.

These American camels resemble those of the
old continent also in their dispositions and their
mode of living ; like them, they are extremely
docile, and generally very mild. The alpaca and
the llama are employed, like the camel, to carry
burdens, and possess the following properties in
common with that animal : they kneel in order to
receive or discharge their loads ; their hoofs are
so firm as not to require shoeing, and their skins
so thick as to render a pack saddle unnecessary,

VOL. I. S

258

and their step is slow, but sure even in the steepest
mountains. The chilihueque was formerly em-
ployed by the Chilians, as the paco is by the Pe-
ruvians; but the introduction of the use of
mules, which have now become very numerous,
has entirely superseded that of the chilihueque.
All these animals pass a great part of the night in
ruminating ; and whenever they wish to sleep,
fold their legs under their belly, and support
themselves upon the breast.

Though these quadrupeds are analogous to
the camel, they have likewise some peculiar cha-
racteristics which distinguish them from that
animal. Destined by nature to live among ice
and snow, their bodies are covered with a thick
fat between the skin and the flesh, like almost
all polar animals ; like them too they abound in
blood, which is the more necessary to them, as
they require a greater degree of warmth than
those animals which inhabit the plains : the fat
preventing the evaporation of the heat, and
thereby keeping up that temperature of the blood
without which they would not be able to endure
the severity of the cold. The lower jaw, like
that of the camel, is furnished with six incisors,
two canine teeth, and several grinders ; but the
upper is wholly destitute of incisors and canine
teeth; a character which appears to me suffi-
ciently marked to constitute a separate genus.
Besides this distinction, their ears are smaller

259

and more elegant than those of the camel ; the
nose is smooth ..the neck straighter and better pro-
portioned, the back more level, except the gua-
naco's, which is a little arched, the tail hand-
somer, and supplied with agreater quantity of hair,
the legs are better shaped and fitted for running,
and the hair on their bodies is longer, softer, and
more like wool. Placed by the side of one of
these animals, the camel would appear like a
monster. Their natural cry resembles the neigh-
ing of a horse. To defend themselves they em-
ploy their saliva, which they throw upon those
who molest them. It is asserted, but it appears
to be without foundation, that this saliva is
naturally caustic, and produces blisters upon the
skin.

They are in heat in the latter part of summer,
during which time they become very thin, and
shed their hair. Before copulation they make
much noise, throw out their saliva, and appear to
be mad. The female has two dugs, which are
always well filled with milk ; her period of gesta-
tion is five or six months, and she produces but one
young at a birth. These three kinds of animals
mutually avoid each other, nor have they ever
been known to copulate. To what age they live
I am unable precisely to determine, though I
believe them shorter lived than the camel; the
period generally assigned them by the Chilians is
thirty years.

s2

260

I consider these animals as intermediate spe-
cies which unite the goat, sheep, stag, and the
camel ; and from the following descriptions it
will be seen that my opinion is not unfounded.

The vicugna (camellus vicuna) is, according
to M. Buffon, only the paco in its original state
of liberty ; but in this, as well as in many other
particulars which concern America, that great
naturalist has been misinformed. The paco, or
the alpaco, and the vicugna are two animals of
the same genus, but of very different species.
It is certain that they never copulate, although
they live upon the same mountains, and the wild
paco, as well as the tame, is very common in Peru.
The vicugna is nearly the size of the tame goat ;
it resembles it particularly in the shape of its
back, rump, and tail, but differs from it in having
a much longer neck, which is frequently twenty
inches in length, in its head which is round and
without horns, in its ears which are small and
straight, in its muzzle which is short and without
a beard, and in its legs which are twice the
height of those of the goat. It is covered with
a very fine wool of the colour of dried roses,
which will take any dye, and is used in the coun-
try in the manufacture of a variety of cloths.
This wool is known in Europe, and very highly
valued. The paco is most robust and of or
thicker make than the vicugna; its muzzle is
longer, and its wool is also longer and not s»

261

fine. The Peruvians keep numerous flocks of
pacos, whose wool they employ in the manufac-
ture of several kinds of cloth, which have the
brilliancy of silk. But the paco is not found in
Chili either in a domestic or savage state.

The vicugnas appear to be more particularly
attached to that part of the Andes which apper-
tains to the provinces of Copiapo and Coquimbo,
where they are found in the greatest numbers,
and inhabit the highest and more inaccessible
ridges of mountains perpetually covered with
ice and snow. This cold climate seems to be
best adapted to their nature., for all those which
the inhabitants have attempted to raise in the
plains have been attacked by a species of mange,
which has soon destroyed them ; and it is most
probable owing to this cause that the methods
which have been hitherto used to transport this
animal to Europe have failed of success. The
vicugnas are always in flocks, and, like the goats,
are seen feeding on the tops of rocks. As soon
as they perceive a man they run off, taking their
young with them. The hunters, when they go
in pursuit of them, endeavour to surround the
mountains upon which they are found, and by
pressing them closer and closer, they at length
collect the whole within a small compass, when
they encircle the spot with a rope, to which they
tie a great number of pieces of cloth. The vi-
cugnas, who are very timid, dare not pass this

s3

262

cord, and easily fall into the hands of their pur-
suers, who usually kill the whole of them. As
the wool of these animals is the chief induce-
ment for hunting them, instead of killing, it
would, perhaps, be more prudent merely to shear
them, an operation which might be repeatedly
performed. Their numbers, however, notwith-
standing these massacres, do not appear to be
diminished, which induces me to believe that
they have more young at a birth than is generally
supposed. The inhabitants have never yet been
able to domesticate this useful animal, but I do
not doubt it will be effected, when the national
industry, which is beginning to exert itself, at-
tains a greater degree of activity. The vicugna
is excellent game, and its flesh is preferred to
veal ; it is used as a specific in cases of the
ophthalmy, by external application. The be-
zoar which is found in its stomach is in high re-
pute with those persons who have confidence in
such things.

The chilihueque (camellus Araucanus) was
originally called hueque, but the Araucanians,
with whom this animal lived in a domestic state, in
order to distinguish it from the European sheep,
which has become very common since the arrival of
the Spaniards, gave it the name of chilihueque,
or rehueque ; which signifies the sheep of Chili.
This name is well applied to it ; for, excepting the
length of its neck and legs, it has considerable
resemblance to the sheep. The head of the chi-

263

lihueque is very much like that of the sheep ; its
ears are also oval and flaccid, the eyes large and
black, the nose long and bunched, the lips thick
and hanging, the tail of a similar form, but
shorter, and the whole body covered with a very
long and soft wool. The length of the chilihue-
que, from the upper lip to the root of the tail, is
about six feet ; and its height, measured from
behind, is nearly four feet. The individuals of
this species vary in colour ; there are some ot
them which are white, others brown, black, and
grey.

The ancient Chilians made use of these ani-
mals as beasts of burden, and were accustomed
to lead them by a rope fastened to a hole made in
the rim of the ear, from whence has arisen the
errors of several geographical writers, who have
asserted, that the sheep which had been carried
to Chili had so far increased in size, that they
were loaded and employed as mules in the trans-
portation of merchandize. Some writers pretend
that, before the arrival of the Spaniards, the
Chilians employed the hueque in the cultivation
of their lands, and for drawing a kind of cart
which they called quetahue. This agrees with
the account of Admiral Spilsberg, who says that
the inhabitants of Mocha made use of them when
he landed there. The chilihueques are highly
valued by the Araucanians ; who, though they
are fond of their flesh, never kill them except
upon festivals, or on some solemn sacrifice,

b4

264

Before the conquest they employed the wool of
this animal to make their clothes ; but since sheep
have multiplied so much, they make use of the
wool of the chilihueque only for the most valu-
able cloth.

What M. dc BufFon and the celebrated Lin-
naeus have said respecting the paco and the vi-
cugna being of the same species, they have like-
wise asserted of the guanaco and the llama.
Both these naturalists have taken the llama for
the domesticated guanaco, but I have good rea-
sons for being of a different opinion. Besides
the natural aversion which subsists between these
two animals, and which prevents them from
ever mingling, they also oiler some very striking
differences which can never be attributed to the
change of situation alone. The llama has a straight
back, all its legs nearly of an equal length,
and an excrescence on the breast which is almost
always moistened with a yellowish oily exudation.
The guanaco, on the contrary, has a bunched or
rather an arched back ; the hind feet are so long
that when it is pursued it never attempts to ascend
the mountains, like the llama, the paco, and
the vicugna, but descends them, leaping, like the
buck and the deer ; a course well suited to the
peculiar conformation of its legs.

The guanaco ( camellus huanacus ) exceeds the
chilihueque in size ; and I have seen some of
them that were the height of a horse. Its usual
length, however, from the nose to the tail, i*

265

about seven feet, and the height, measured before,
four feet and three inches. The body is covered
with very long hair, of a reddish colour upon the
back, and whitish under the belly,; its head is
round, the nose pointed and black, the ears straight
like those of a horse, the tail short, and turned
back like that of the stag. The name guanaco,
by which it is commonly known, is Peruvian ;
it is called luan in Chili. The guanaco appears
to be less attached to a cold climate than the vi-
cugna. In the beginning of winter these ani-
mals quit the mountains they inhabit during the
summer, and appear in the valleys in large herds,
usually of a hundred or two hundred. The
Chilians hunt them with dogs, but they commonly
take only the youngest, which are the least swift;
the old ones run with astonishing rapidity, and it
is difficult to overtake them with a good horse.
When they are pursued, they turn from time to
time to look at the huntsman, neighing as loud as
they can, and then set off anew with increased
velocity. It sometimes happens that the Indians,
who are mounted upon very swift horses, take
them alive, by means of a noose or sling, which
they throw from a distance between their legs.
This noose, which the Indians call laqui, is made
of a strip of leather, about five or six feet long;
to each end of which is fastened a stone of
about two pounds weight. The huntsman, who
is on horseback, holds one of these stones in his
hand, and, ybirls the other around like a sling,

266

as swift as possible, in order to hurl it with
more force, when he throws it at the animal he
has singled out, whom he is almost certain of
striking, frequently at more than three hundred
paces distance. In order to take the animal
alive, the sling must be thrown so dexterously,
as only to twist itself around the feet. The gua-
naco is naturally gentle, and readily becomes ac-
customed to a domestic state ; it can be tamed
to such a degree as to follow its master where-
ever he wishes. The meat, especially when the
animal is young, is excellent, and as good as veal;
that of the old ones is tougher, but is very good
when salted ; it keeps well, on long voyages, and
is often put up for the use of seamen. Very
good hats- are made from the hair, and it may be
used in the manufacture of camlet.

The guemul, or huemul (equusbisulcus) is an
animal which I have classed with the horse, al-
though it ought to form a separate genus, in
consequence of its hoofs being divided like those
of ruminating animals. Its teeth, and the
manner in which they are disposed, are precisely
like those of the horse ; but its size, hair, and
colour give it a greater resemblance to the ass,
with which it might readily be confounded, were
it not for the ears, which are short, straight, and
pointed like those of the horse. It also wants
the black stripe upon the back which is peculiar
to that species. The huemul is farther distin-

267

guished from the ass by a handsomer head} and
a more elegant appearance ; the neck and but-
tocks are also better formed. A great difference
likewise prevails in its internal conformation, and
its voice is more like the neighing of a horse,
than the braying of an ass. This animal is more
unruly than the vicugna, and far exceeds it in
swiftness ; it inhabits the most inaccessible parts
of the Andes, which is the reason of its being
so difficult to be taken. It is the same animal
which Captain Wallis found at the Straits of
Magellan, and, in my opinion, forms the link be-
tween the ruminating and single-hoofed animals.

Horses, asses, cattle, sheep, goats, many kinds
of dogs, cats, and even mice, have been brought
hither by the Spaniards. All these animals have
multiplied exceedingly, and have increased in
size, as might be expected from so favourable a
climate. The horses of Chili possess all the good
qualities of their species : they have spirit,
vigour, and swiftness. Those which are bred in
the plains resemble the Arabian horses ; they are
of a middle size, but remarkably active. The
mountain horses are stronger and closer set, and
are very good for the harness ; they have, in ge-
neral, an elegant appearance, a small and hand-
some head, the tail well furnished with hair, and
a little raised, the chest broad, and well turned,
the thighs round and plump, the legs slender and
nervous, and the hoof so hard as not to require

268

to be shod, except in cities. The great number
of horses, and their cheapness, is the reason why
they are worse treated in Chili than almost any-
country in the world. A common horse will cost
a felippo (about four shillings sterling) a mare
about five Roman paolis, or about two shillings
sterling. They are fed entirely upon grass, andare
kept in the field throughout the year. It is very
uncommon to see a peasant walk half a league ;
the moment he rises he goes and saddles one of his
horses, and uses him the whole day, wthout al-
lowing him any time to rest or to feed. To this
may be added the long journeys of a hundred
leagues and more, which these people make with
the *same horse, during the whole of which the
horse is only permitted to rest at night.

Horses capable of enduring such hardships,
must be naturally of a firm and strong constitu-
tion; but it is perhaps, in a great measure,
owing to their being early accustomed to severe
fatigue, and the nature of their food, as I have
seen those which were very old, and had been in
constant service. The horses, in consequence of
their different gaits, are divided into three breeds,
the most common of which are the trotters. The
horses of this breed, as the most robust and vi-

* In Paraguay and Tucuman they are more humane. Led
horses are always taken there for a journey.— jE. E.

Dolrixhoffts.

269

gorous, are principally used by the country
people. The second are the pacers, who are more
easy gaited than the best Andelusian horses. It
is said that this step is peculiar to this breed, and
that it is observable even in the colts ; it is the
best supported, and the quickest upon a long
journey, for which reason this breed is intimae
request than either of the others. The parade
horses constitute the third breed ; these never go
out of a foot pace, move with much grace, and
are particularly in demand in Peru, where they
are employed on occasions of parade and cere-
mony ; the price of them is from one hundred to
five hundred crowns.

The Chilians are very careful to preserve the
breed of their horses pure, and not suffer any in-
termixture. During the winter almost all the
horses are kept at pasture in the valleys of the
Andes, from whence they return in the spring
very fat and vigorous. When the inhabitants
train their colts, which is commonly done at three
years of age, they begin by scoring the upper
muscle of the tail, to prevent the motion of it,
which operation they call castige.

The asses of Chili are so strong and tall, that
it is difficult to recognize in them the original
stock. I scarcely know to what circumstance to
attribute this favourable alteration, unless it may
be the state of liberty in which these animals
live, for they are made but very little use of ; in

270

the valleys of the Andes they are even found in a
wild state, and are hunted by the Chilians for
the sake of their skins ; among these are some
that have hair sufficiently long to be spun with
ease. The mules are an excellent breed ; they
are very strong, and are particularly distin-
guished for being very sure footed and active.

The horned cattle, upon which the influence
of climate appears to be greater than on others,
have in Chili, owing to its favourable tempera-
ture, acquired a larger size, while their flesh has
become better, and more nutritive. The oxen of
the maritime are, however, of an inferior size to
those of the middle provinces, nor can these last
be compared to those which are bred in the
valleys of the Andes. These cattle are kept the
whole year in the open field, and their food*
which never fails them, consists entirely of the
different kinds of herbs and grasses which follow
each other in succession. The species, far from
exhibiting any degeneracy, has improved consi-
derably ; and though I have observed that the
cattle of the maritime provinces are small, it is
only in relation to the others, for I have seen
some of them which weighed near two thousand
pounds.

There are some landholders in Chili, whose

farms are sufficient to keep twelve thousand head

of cattle. At the end of each winter they usually

select a thousand head, either cows or oxen, in

2

271

order to fatten them ; for this purpose, they drive
them to the richest pastures, where thej usually
keep them till about Christmas, when they kill
them. This slaughter, which is always a great
festival for the peasants, is expected with the
utmost impatience, and they conduct it as fol-
lows : — The herdsmen drive twenty or thirty of
these fat cattle into an enclosure made with
stakes, which is always erected upon a plain;
the peasants, well mounted, surround the en-
closure, and when they have taken their stations,
one of the cattle is let out. As soon as the beast
finds himself at liberty he takes flight, and all
the company pursue him, each endeavouring
adroitly to hamstring him with a sharp iron,
shaped like a crescent, attached to the end of a
lance. Whenever a beast falls, the butchers im-
mediately dispatch him, by thrusting a kind of
long knife into the nape of his neck. When all
the beasts are killed, they are dragged to one
spot, where they are flayed, and the tallow
separated from the beef. This last they usually-
cut up into long narrow strips, salt it a little,
and dry it in the sun. A very considerable com-
merce is carried on in this beef, especially with
Peru and the mines. It keeps very well ; and, as
it is not strongly salted, is preferred to the salt
provisions received from Holland and England.
The tallow is mostly exported to Peru, very
little being used in the country ; it is the same

272

with the hides, the greater part of which are sold
to strangers. The milk is of the best and riches
quality, and the inhabitants make excellent
cheese from it, which is no way inferior to the
best of Lodi. Of the cheese, that of Chanco, in
the province of Maule, is the most celebrated.
The cattle are not employed in labour till three
years old, and never more than two are tackled
to a plough, even in breaking up new grounds.
Instead of a yoke being suspended to their necks,
a rope, agreeably to the Spanish custom, is run
through their horns, by which they draw the
plough. The common price of cattle through-
out the country is from three to four filippi
(twelve or sixteen shillings sterling); but in the
sea-ports the price is fixed, by an ancient regula-
tion, at ten crowns, of which the commandant of
the port receives four, and the owner six.

The sheep imported from Spain have lost no-
thing in Chili ; they are of the same size, and
their wool is as beautiful as that of the best
Spanish sheep. Each sheep yields annually from
ten to fifteen pounds of wool ; the mutton, espe-
cially that of the wethers, is very fine. They
generally breed twice a year, as is common in
temperate climates, and frequently have two at a
birth. The sheep have no horns, but rams are
frequently seen which have four and even six
horns. The owners leave them the whole year
in the open fields, without any shelter, and only

%73

shut them up in a kind of pen to secure them
from the wild beasts. Those which are bred in
the Andes are larger, and produce a longer and
finer wool. The Pehuenches, a nation which in-
habits a part of these mountains, have crossed
the breed of the sheep with the goat, and this
mixed breed is much larger than the other
sheep ; their hair, which is more or less curled,
has the firmness and softness of wool, and is fre-
quently two feet long ; it resembles much the hair
of the Angora goat.

The goats have also multiplied astonishingly ;
they live almost always in the mountains ; their
skins are employed for manufacturing morocco ;
of this much is consumed in the country, and
great quantities are sent to Peru.

Man in Chili enjoys all the advantages which
result from a mild unchangeable climate, and
those persons who do not shorten their lives by
irregularities, attain to a very * advanced age.
Notwithstanding what M. de Pauw has asserted,
I have myself known several old men of a hun-
dred and four, a hundred and five, and one in-
stance even of a hundred and fifteen years of age.

* It appears beyond a doubt, from the concurrent testimony
of all writers who have lived in South America, that the
natives live to a hundred more frequently than Europeans to
fourscore. The fruit hangs there upon the tree till it drops ;—
every where in the Old World the rude climate shakej* it
down. — E. E.

VOL. I. 1

274

It is but a few years since that Don Antonio Boza
died there at the age of one hundred and six. My
grandfather and my great grandfather, both Cre-
oles, lived, the first to the age of ninety-five, the
other to ninety-six. These instances are not un-
common among the natives of the country. The
women are generally prolific and there are few
countries where they more frequently give birth
to twins. This fecundity, and the abolition of
some practices which were injurious to the pro-
pagation of the human species, will explain the
rapid increase of population, which has taken
place within the last thirty years.

The inhabitants of Chili are either aboriginal,
or the descendants of Europeans or Africans.
Those descended from Europeans are well
shaped, particularly the women, some of whom
are very beautiful. The aborigines form but
one* nation, divided into many tribes, all of whom
speak the same language, which they call Chili-
duga, or the Chilian tongue- This language is
soft, harmonious, expressive, and regular, and
possesses a great number of wrords, not only ex-
pressive of natural objects, but also of moral and
metaphysical ideas. The colour of the natives is
a reddish or coppery brown, excepting the Bo-
roanes, who live in the midst of the Araucanian
provinces, in the thirty-ninth degree of latitude ;
these are white, and as well featured as the
northern Europeans. Nothing appears to me to be
more ridiculous than the assertion of several au-

275

iliors, that all the Americans resemble each otlief,
and that from seeing one you are able to judge of
the whole. These gentlemen seem to have been
led into this error by a very slight resemblance,
arising from their colour. It is only necessary
to see different individuals to be convinced of the
contrary. A Chilian is as easily distinguishable
from a Peruvian as an Italian from a German. I
have seen natives of Cujo, of Paraguay,, and of
the Straits of Magellan, and I can confidently
affirm, that their countenances present a very
striking difference. The Chilians, like the Tar-
tars, have but little beard, and the custom which
they have of plucking out the hair as fast as it
grows, makes them appear as if beardless ; for
this purpose they always carry with them a small
pair of pincers, which forms a part of their
toilette. There are some of them, however, wrho
have as thick a beard as the Spaniards. The
hair which marks the age of puberty they have
in still greater quantities than the beard. The
opinion that a thin beard is the mark of a feeble
body, is not verified in the case of these people.
The Indians are generally vigorous, and are
better able to endure fatigue than the Creoles, for
which reason they are always preferred in those
employments that require strength.

Those who inhabit the plains are of the same
height as the Europeans ; but the natives of the
mountains are distinguished by a taller stature^

t3

216

and I am well convinced that these are the
famous Patagonians, of whom so much has heen
said. Lord Anson is of the same opinion, and
the descriptions given by Byron, Wall is, Carteret,
Bougainville, Du Clos, and De la Giraudais, of
these pretended giants, agree perfectly well with
the appearance of the mountaineers of Chili.
What confirms me in my opinion is, that their
language, from the specimens of it which those
navigators have given, is the Chilian. I have
elsewhere showed that the Chilian language does
not extend beytfnd the limits mentioned in the
commencement of this work; besides which, the
Patag'oijiari contains a great number of Spanish
words,, which proves fully a communication be-
tween the two nations. The usual height of
these inhabitants of the mountains is five feet
seven inches ; the tallest that I have seen did not
exceed six feet three inches ; but what makes
them appear much larger is the enormous size of
their limbs, which do not appear to be adapted
to their hejght, except the hands and feet, which,
it) proportion to the rest, are very small. The
tout ensemble of their countenances is not ba'd ;
they have usually a round face, a nose rather
' large, very sprightly eyes, remarkably white
teeth, black and coarse hair, and some of them
wear whiskers. They have generally a browner
complexion than the other Chilians, from their
being constantly in the open air.

277

The dress of those who live in the western val-
leys of the Andes, consists of various kinds of
woollen cloth ; but those who inhabit the eastern,
or the true Patagonians, cover themselves with
the skins of guanacos and other wild animals.
Some of them wear the poncho of the Arauca-
nians, which is a kind of cloak, of an oblong
form, with a hole in the middle to put the head
through. The Pehuelques, who occupy the
southern Andes, wear a leathern hat, decorated
with feathers; they paint their bodies and faces
of various colours, particularly their eyelids.
The women, who are all of a lofty stature, dress
much like the men, except that, instead of
breeches, they wear a small apron.

All these people live under tents made of skins,
which they easily transport from one place to
another, whither they remove for the conveni-
ence of pasturage. They are divided into several
tribes,- each of which has its particular chief, to
whom they give the name of Ulman ; like the
other Chilians, they are idolaters. Their lan-
guage is every where the same, except that the
eastern tribes have rather a guttural pronuncia-
tion. These people are almost constantly during
the day on horseback; their saddles are made
like the pack-saddles of our asses, the bridle is
a leather string, the bit, stirrups, and spurs, are
of wood, but notwithstanding the rudeness of
this equ page, they are good horsemen, and al-

t3

278

most always ride upon the full gallop, followed
by a great number of dogs, who are trained to
bold the horse by the bits when the rider alights.
The eastern Chilians have no horses that exceed
the middle size, probably from their riding them
when very young, and allowing them too little
rest. Although they are not in want of cattle
for food, they prefer game to any thing else ; and
they are almost always to be seen in chase of the
guanaco or the ostrich, in the vast plains that
extend from the mouth of the Plata to the eastern
part of the Straits of Magellan. The weapon
which they employ in hunting and in war, is the
laqui, of which I have already spoken. It was
with this that they killed forty Spaniards, in a
gkirmish at Saint Luis della Punta, in 1767.
These mountaineers sometimes attack the car
ravans which pass from Buenos Ayres to Chili,
and frequently the country houses belonging to
the capital.

Between the southern boundaries of Chili and
the Straits of Magellan, there are no nations
except the Pojas and the Cancans. The Pojas
are of a gigantic stature, but their language is
entirely different from that of the Chilians, and
they never approach their territories. The
Caucaus are of a middle stature, and their lan-
guage is also very different from the Chilians ;
these last dress themselves in garments made of
the skins of sea-wplves.

279

The above sketch will serve to give some
idea of the inhabitants of Chili ; but in my
second part, containing the civil history of those
people, I shall treat more fully of their manners
and customs, as well as of their military expe-
ditions.

T*

A METHODICAL TABLE

OF THE

VARIOUS SPECIES OF NATURAL PRODUCTIONS

DESCRIBED IN THIS WORK,

ARRANGED IN THE MANNER OF LINNAEUS,

REGNUM ANIMALE,

MAMMALIA.

BRUT A. — Dasipus quadricinctus chigulis quatuor, pedibus
pentadactylis.

Dasipus octocinctus cingulis octo, palmis tetradactylis, plantis
pentadactylis.

Dasipus undecimcinclus cingulis undecim, palmis tetradactylis,
plantis pentadactylis.

Dasipus octodecimcinctus cingulis duodeviginti, palmis tetra-
dactylis, plantis pentadactylis.

Ferae. — Phoca Lupina capite subauriculato, palmis tetra-
dactylis.

Phoca Porcina capite auriculato, rostro truncate* prominente.

Phoca Elephantina capite antice cristate

Phoca Leonina capite postice jubato.

Cauis Culpceus cauda recta elongata, apice concolore Iaivi.

Felis Puma cauda elongata, corpore cinereo subtus albicante.

Felis Guigna cauda elongata, corpore maculis omnibus orbi-
culatis.

Felis Colocola cauda elongata, corpore albo maculis irreg.
alris, stavisque.

Yiverra Chinga atro caerulea, maculis quinque dorsualibus ro-
tundis aibis.
3

282

Mustela Felina plantis palmatis pilosis, cauda tereti elongata.
Mustela Cuja pedibus fissis, corpore atro labio superiore sub-

truncato.
Mustela Quiqui pedibus fissis, corpore fusco, rostro cunei-

formi.

Glires. — Lepus Viscacia cauda elongata setosa.

Lepus Minimus cauda brevissima, auriculis pilosis conco-
loribus.

Castor Huidolrius cauda longa compresso-lanceolata, palmis
lobatis, plantis palmatis.

Mus Cyanus cauda mediocri subpilosa, palmis 4-dactylis,
plantis 5-dactylis, corpore ceruleo subtus albido.

Mus Laniger cauda mediocri, palmis 4-dactylis, plantis 5-dac-
tylis, corpore cinereo lanato.

Mus Maulinus cauda mediocri pilosa, auriculis acuminatis,
pedibus pentadactylis.

Mus Coy pus cauda mediocri subcompressa pilosa, plantis pal-
matis.

Sciurus Degus fusco stavescens, linea humerali nigra.

Pecora. — Camelus Huanacus corpore piloso, dorso gibbo,

cauda erecta.
Camelus Vicugna corpore lanato, rostro sirao obtuso, cauda

erecta.
Camelus Araucanus corpore lanato, rostro supcrne curvo,

cauda pendula.
Capra Puda cornibus teretibns laevibus, divergentibus, gula

rmberbi.

Belluae. — Equus Bisulcus pedibus bisulcis.

AVES.
Accipitres. — Vultur Jota niger remigibus fuscis, rostro ciue-
raceo.

283

Vultur Gryphus maximus, caruncula verticali longitudine capi

tis, gula nuda,
Falco Tharus cera, pedibusque luteis, corpore albo-nigres-

cente, vertice cristato.
Strix Cunicularia capite laevi, corpore supra fusco, subtus

albo, pedibus tuberculatis pilosis,

Picae. — Psitlacus Jaguilma macrourus vitidis, remigibus

apice fuscis, orbitis fulvis.
Psittacus Cyanalysios bracbiurus luteo-virens, collari caeruleo,

uropygio rubro.
Psittacus Chorus bracbiurus viridis, subtus cinereus orbitis in-

carnatis.
Picus Lignarius pileo coccineo, corpore albo, caeruleoque vit-

tato.
Picus Pitius cauda brevi, corpore fusco maculis ovalibus albis

guttato.
Trocbilus Cyanocephalus rectirostris capite remigibus, rectri-

cibusque caeruleis, abdoruine rubro.
Trocbilus Galerilus curvirostris viridi-aureus, remigibus, rec-

tricibusque fuscis, crista purpurea.
Trocbilus Minimus rectirostris, rectricibus lateralibus margine

exteriore albis, corpore viridi nitente, subtus albiro.

Anseres. — Anas Melancorypha rostro semicylindrico rubro,
capite nigro, corpore albo.

Anas Hylrida rostro semicylindrico, cera rubra, cauda acuti-
uscula.

Anas Regia caruncula compressa frontali corpore caeruleo sub-
tus fusco, collari albo.

Diomedea Chilensis alis impennibus, pedibus compedibus try-
dactylis, digitis omnibus connexis.

Diomedea Chilensis alis impennibus, pedibus compedibus te-
tradactylis palmatis, corpore lauugiuoso cinereo.

Pelecanus Thogus cauda rotunda, rostro serrato, gula sac
cata.

284

GltALLAE. — Phaenieopterus Chilcnsis ruber, renn'gibusalbis.

Ardea Erythrocephala crista dependents rubra, corpore albo.

Ardea Galatea occipite subcristato, corpore lacteolo, rostio
luteo pedibus coccineis.

Ardea Cyanoccphala vcrtice cristato caeruleo, remigibus nigris
albo marginatis.

Ardea 1 'hula occipite cristato concolore, corpore albo.

Tantalus Pillus facie, rostio, pedibusque fuscis, corpore albo,
remigibus recfricibusque nigris.

Parra Chilensis unguibus modicis, pedibus fuscis occipite sub-
cristato.

Otis Chilensis capite, juguloque laevi, corpore albo, verticc
rectri cibusque cinereis, remigibus primor. nigris.

Struthio Rea, pedibus tridactylis, digito postico rotundato
jnutico.

Passer ES. — Coluraba Melancoptera cauda cuneata, corpore

caerulescente, remigibus nigris.
SturnusLoyca fusco, alboque maculatus, pectore coccinco.
T urdus Thilius ater, a\i!lis luteis, cauda cuneata.
Turdus Thenca fuseo-cinereus, subtus pallido-ciucreus remi-
gibus recfricibusque apice albis.
Turdus Curaeus ater nitens, rostro substriato cauda cuneata.
Fringilla Barlata lutea, alis'viridibus nigro rubroque maculatis

gula barbata.
Fringilla Diuca caeruku, gula alba.
Pbilotonva (gen. nov.) rostrum conicum, rectum, scrratum,

Nares ovatae.
1 Pbitotoma Ear a.

Lingua bievis obtusa.

AMPHIBIA.
Reptilia. — Rana Arunco corpore verrucoso, pedibus pal-

roatis.
Rana Lutea corpore verrucoso luteo pedibus subpalmatis.
Lacerta Palluma cauda verlicidatalongiuscula, squamisrhom-

boideis.

285

Lacerta Aqualica Nigra, (caudiverbera) cauda depresso-plana,
piunatiti.ua, pedibus palmatis.

Nantes. — Chimaera Callorinchus rostro subtus labro inflexo

Isevi.
Squalus Femandinus pinna ani nulla, dorsalibus spinosis, cor-

pore teieti oceliato.

PISCES.
Apodes. — Stromateus Cum area dorso caeruleo, abdomine albo.

Thoracici. — Cbaetodon Aureus cauda integra, spinis dorsa-
libus 11, corpore aureo, fasciis 5 discoloribus distincto.
Sparus Chilensis cauda bifida, liueis utriuque transversis i'uscis.

Abdominales.— Silurus Luvur pinna dorsali postica adiposa,

cirris 4, cauda lanceolata.
Esox Chilensis maxillis aequalibus, linea laterali caerulea.
Mugil Chilensis dorso inonopterygio.
Cyprinus Regius pinna ani radiis 11, dorsali longitudinali.
Cyprinus Caucus pinna ani radiis 13, corpore tnberoso argon.

teolo.
Cyprinus Malchus pinna ani radiis S, corpore coni'co subcacr-

uleo.
Cyprinus lulus pinna ani radiis 10, caudae lobatae.

1NSECTA.

Coleoptera. — Lucanus Pilmus exscutellatus ater, corpore

depiesso, tborace striato.
Chrysomela Maulica ovata aurata, auteunis caeruleis.

Lepidoptera. — Papilio Leucothea D. alis integcrriiuis ro-
tundatis albis concolovibus, antennis, aterrhnis.

Papilio Psittacus N. alis dentatis virescentibus, luteo caeruleo-
que maeulatis, subtus rlavis.

Phalaena Ceraria B. elinguis, alis deflexis flavescentibus, fas-
ciis nigiis.

Hymexoptera. — Cynips Rosmarini Chilensis,

286

Tipula Moschifcra alis incumbentibus cinereis, thorace, abdd-
mineque flavis.

Aptera.— Aranea Scrofa abdomine semiofbiculato fusco,

dentibus laniariis inferioribus exsertis.
Scorpio Ckllensis pectinibus lftdentatis, manibus subangulatis.
Cancer Talicuna brachyurus thorace orbiculato laevi inte-

gerrimi, cbelis muricatis.
Cancer, Xaiva brachyurus, thorace laevi lateribus tridentato,

fronte truncata.
Cancer Jpancora brachyurus, thorace laevi ovato utrinquc

denticulato, cauda trigona.
Cancer Setosus brachyurus, thorace hirsuto obcordato tuber-

culato, rostro bifido inflexo.
Cancer Santolla brachyurus, thorace aculeato arcuato subco-

riaceo, manibus pclliculatis.
Cancer Coronatus brachyurus, thorace obovato, apopliyci dor-

sali crenata.
Cancer Cementarius macrourus, tiioraci laevi cylindrico, rostro

obtuso, chelis aculeatis.

VERMES.

Mollusca.— Pyura (gen. nov.j Corpus conicum nidulans:
Proboscides binae terminates perforatac. Oculi inter
proboscides.

1. Pyura Chilensis.

Sepia Unguicidata corpore ecaudato, brachiis unguiculatis.

Sepia Tunica t a corpore prorsus vaginante, cauda alata.

Sepia Hexapodia corpore caudato segmentato*

Echinus Alius hemisphzerico globosus, ambulacris denis: areis
longitudinaliter verrucosis.

Echinus Niger ovatus, ambulacris quinis : arcis muricatis ver-
rucosis.

Testacea. — Lepas Psittacus testa postice adunca, sexvulvi,
rugosa.

287

Pholas Chiloensis testa oblonga depressiuscula, striis longitu-

dinalibus distantibus.
Solen Macha testa ovali oblonga antice truncata, cardine al-

tero bidentato.
Chama Thaca subrotunda longitndinaliter striata, ano retuso.
Mytilus Ater testa sulcata postice squamosa.
Murex Locus testa ecaudata obovata antice nodosa, apertura

edentula suborbiculata.
Helix Serpentina testa subcarinata imperforata conica, longi-

tudinaliter striata, apertura patulomarginata.

REGNUM VEGETABILE.

DIANDRIA.

MONOGYNIA. — Rosmarinus Chilensis foliis petiolatis.
Maytenus (gen. nov.J Cor. 1 petela campanulata. Cal. 1-

pbyllus. Caps. 1 spernia.
] Maytenus Boaria.

TRIANDRIA.
Monogynia. — Scirpus Ellychniarius culmotereti nudo, spicis
globosis quaternis.

Dtginia. — Arundo Rugi calyc. trifloris, foliis subulatis

glabris.
Arundo Quila calyc. trifloris, foliis ensiformibus serratis.
Arundo Valdiviana calyc. trifloris, foliis subulatis pubes-

centibus.

TETRANDRIA.
Monogynia. — Rubia Chilensis foliis annuis, caule subro-

tundo laevi.
Cornus Chilensis arborca, cymis nudis, foliis cordatis den-

tatis.

PENTANDR1A,

Monogynia.— Nicotiana Minima foliis sessilibus oYatis, fio
ribus obtusis.

288

Solarium Cari caule incrmi herb. fol. pinnatis integ. ncct. cam-
panulato subaequante petala.

DIGYNIA. — Hernia ria Payco foliis serratis.

Solsola Coquimbqna frulicojsa, caul, aphyllis, calyc. succulent's

diaphanis.
Gentiana Caclianlahuen Cor. quinquefidis infuudib. rami's op-

positis patulis.
Heracleum Tuberosum fol. pinnatis, foliolis septenis, flor. ra-

diatis.
Srandix Chilensis semin. rostro longissimo, foliolis integiis

ovatolanceolaiis.

Trigynia.— Quincliatnalium (gen. nov.J Cal. 5-ficlus. Cor.

5-fida. Caps. 3-Ioculatis polysperma.
Quinchamalium Chilense.

PenTAGYNIA.— Liuum Aquilinum fol. alternis Ianceolatis,
pedunculis bifloris.

HEXANDRiA.
Monogy-nia.— Peumus (gen. nov.J Cal. 6-fidus. Cor. 6-
petala. Drupa 1-sperma.

1 Peumus Rulrai'&l. alternis, petiolatis, ovalibus, integerrimis.

2 Peumus Alba fol. alternis, petiolatis, ovalibus, dentatis.

3 Peumus Mammosa fol. alternis, sessilibus, cordatis, inte-

gerrimis.

4 Peumus Boldus fol. oppositis, petiolatis, ovalibus, subtus

villosis.
Puya (gen. nov.) Petala 6 hiaequalia, tribus major, fornicatis.

Cap. 3-locularis.
1 Puya Chilensis.

OCTANDRIA.

Monogynia.— Sassia (gen. nov.J Cal. 4-pliyllus. Cor. 4-

petala. Caps. 2-locularis, 2-sperma.
1 Sassia Tinctoria fol. ovatis, scapo multifioro.
? Sassia Perdicaria fol. cordatis, scapo unifloro.

289

ENNEANDRIA.

Monogynia. — Laurus Caustica fol. ovalibus rugosis, peren-

nantibus, flor. quadrifidis.
Panke (gen. nov.J CaJ. 4-fidus. Cor. 4-fida. Caps. 1-spenna.

1. Panke Tinctoria caule erecto racemifero.

2. Panke Acaulis racemo acauli.

Plcgorhiza (gen. nov.J Cal. 6. Cor. 1-petala. Caps. 1-locu-

laris, 1-sperma.
I. Plegorhiza Gauicuru.

DECAND RI A.

Monogynia. — Hippomanica (gen. nov.) Cal. 5-partitus. Pe0

tala 5-ovata. Caps. 4-loctilaris.
1. Hippomanica Insana.

Digynia. — Tburaria (gen. nov.) Cor. 1-petala. Calyc. tubu-

losus. Caps. 2-localaris, 2«sperma.
1. Thuraria Chilensis.

Pentagynia. — Oxalis Tulerosa pedunc. vimbelliferis, caule

ramoso, radice tuberosa.
Oxalis Virgosa scapo multifloro, fol. ternatis ovatis.

ICOSANDRIA.

3!oNOGYNlA.-~Cactus Coquimlanus erectus, longus, 10-an~
gularis, angulis obtusis, spinis longisbimis rectis.

31 Vitus Ugni flor. solitariis, ramis oppositis, foliis ovalibus
subsessilibus.

Myrtus Luma flor. solitariis, fol. suborbiculatis.

Myrtus Maxima peduuc. multifloris, fol. alteruis subovalibiis*

Digynia.- .Lucuira (gen. nov.) Cal. 4-fidus duplicatus. Cor. 6
Drupa l-6eu 2-sperma.

1. Lucuina Bifera fol. alternis, petiolatis, ovato oblongis.

2. Lucuma Turlinata fol. alternis, petiolatis, lanceolatis.

3. Lucuma Valparadiscea fol. opnosilis, petiolatis, ovatoob-

longis.
vol. r„ r

290

4. Lucuma Kettle fol. alternis, petiolatis, ovalibu?, subserratis.

5. Lucuma Spinosa fol. alternis sessilibus, ramis spinosis.

% POLYANDRIA.

Digynia.— Temus (gen. nov.) Cal. 3-fidus. Cor. 18-petala.
Bacca dicocca.

I. Teraus Moschata.

DIDYNAMIA.
Gymnospermia.--- Ocymum Salinum fol. ovatis glabris,
caule geniculato.

ANGiosPERMiA.--Gevuina (gen. «oz/.)Cal. 6. Cor. 4-petala>

Caps, l-locularis coriacea.
1. Gevuina Avellana.

MONADELPHIA.
Decandria. — Crinodendron (gen. nov.) Monogynia. Caps.

3-gona sperma.
^. Crinodendron Patagua.

DIADELPHIA.

Decandria.— Phaseolus Pallar caule volubili, leg. pendulis,

cylindricis, torulosis.
Phaseolus Asellus caule volubili, fol. sagittatis, semin. globosis.
Dolichos Funarius volubili caule perenni, legum. pendulis pen-

taspermis, fol. ovalibus utrinque glabris.
Psoralea Lutea fol. ternatis fasciculatis, foliolis ovatis rugosis,

spic. pedunculatis.

POLYADELPHIA.

IcosANDRiA. — Citrus Chilensis fol. sessilibus acurninatis.

SYNGENESIA.

PoLYG. jEqual. — Eupatorium Chilense fol. oppositis am
plexicaulibus, lauceolatis, denticulatis, calycis quinque-
floris.

Santolina Tinctoria pedunc. uniflor. fol. linearibus integerri-
liiis, caulibus striatis.

Polyg. Superf.— Gnapbalium Viravira herb. fol. decur-
rentibus, spatulatis, utrinque tomentosis.

291

Madia (gen. nov.J Recept. nudum, pappus nullus : cal. 8-phil-
lus: sera, planoconvexa.

1. Madia Sativa fol. Jineari lanceolatis, petiolatis. ■*

2. Madia Mellosa fol. amplexicaulibus lanceolatis.

Polyg. Frustr.— Helianthus Thurifer caule fructicoso, fol.
line ari-lanceolatis.

MONOECIA.

Triandria. — Zea Curagua foliis denticulatis.

Polyandria.— Colliguaja (gen. nov.J Masc. Cal. 4-fidus,
cor. 6. Stam. S.

Fern. Cal. 4-fidus. Cor. 6. Styli 3-Caps. angularis,
3-sperma.
1. Colliguaja Odorifera.

Quillaja (gen.nov.J Masc. Cal. 4-phyllus. Cor. 6. Stam. 12.
Fem. Cal. 4-phyllus. Cor. 6. Styli 4-Caps. 4-locularis.
Sera, solitaria.
1. Quillaja Saponaria.

Abelphia. — Pinus Cupressoides fol. imbricatis acutis.
Pinus Araucana fol. turbinatis imbricatis bine mucronatis,
ramis quaternis cruciatis.

SYNGENESIA.— Cucurbita Siceraria fol. angulato sublobatis

tomentosis, pomis lignosis globosis.

Cucurbita Mammeata fol. multipartitis, pomis sphseroideis

mammosis.

DIOECIA.

Diandria. — Salix Chilensis fol. integerrimis glabris, lanceo-
latis, acumiuatis.

Decandria. — Schinus Huygan fol. pinnatis : foliolis serratis
petiolatis, impari brevissimo.

POLYGAMIA.
MONOECIA.—Mimosa Balsamica inermis fol. bipinnatis, par-
tialibus6-jugis subdenticulatis, flor. octandris.

U2

292

Mimosa Cavenia spiiiis stipularibus patentibus, fol. bipinnatis,
spicis globosis verticillalis sessilibus.

Trioecia.— Ceratonia Chilensis fol. ovalibus carinatis, ramis
spinosis.

PALMiE.

Cocos Chilensis inermis, frond, pirmatis, foliol. complicatis en-
siformibus, spadicibus quaternis.

REGNUM LAPIDEUM.

PETRiE.
Calcaria. — Gypsum Vulcanicum parliculis iudeterminatis
caerulescens.

Argillace^:. — Mica Variegata membranacea fissilis, flexilis,
pellucida, variegata.

Aggregate. — Saxum Chillense impalpabile, luteum, ma*
culis spatosis rubris caeruleisque.

MINER.E.
Sulphur A.— Bitumen Andinum tenax ex atro caerulescens.

Metalla. — Cuprum Campanile mineralisatum stannosum

cinereum.
Cuprum Laxense zinco naturaliter mixtum.

FOSSILIA.
TERRiE. — Arena Cyanea ferri micans caerulea.
Arena Talcensis ferruginea in aqua durescens.
Argilla Bucarina fusca, luteo-punctata, odorifera.
Argilla Maulica nivea, lubrica, atomis nitidis.
Argilla Suldola atra, aquosa, teuacissima.
Argilla Rovia ateririma, tinctoria.
Calx Vulcania solubilis, pulvereo-granulata.

A SUPPLEMENT

TO THE

TABLE OF THE VEGETABLE KINGDOM,

CONTAINING SEVERAL SPECIES NOT INCLUDED THEREIN,
AN» DESCRIBBD OR MENTIONED IN THIS WORK.*.

Page 107— Chenopodium folio sinuato, saturate virenti, vulgo

Quin ua.
Page 108— Oxalis roseo flore ereetior, vulgo Culle.
Page 1 09— Fragraria (Chilensis) fructu maximo, foliis camosis

liirsutis.
Page 113— Bermudiaua bulbosa, flore reflexo cceruleo.
Alstroemeria (Ligta) caule ascendeute. Hemerocallis floribus

slriatis.
Page 124 — Tithymalus fol. triuerviis et cordatis, vulgo Pichoa.
Poly gala coerulea angustis et densioribus foliis. Clinclin.
Graraen bromoides catharticum. Guilno.
Virga aurea leucoi folio incauo. Diuca-lahuen.
Lichnidea verbenoe tenui folio, folio. Sandia-lahuerj.
Geranium columbinuni, corecore.
Page 125 — Jacobcea leucanthemi vulgaris folio, Gnilgue.
Page 127 — Bochi liliaceo, amplissimoque, flore carraesino.

Copiu.
Page 12S — Urceolaria foliis camosis scandens.

* It having been found difficult, from the imperfect descriptions of
several of these species, to arrange them under their proper classes and
orders, this collocation has been adopted in preference to any other.—

'JVans,

v3

294

Coriarfa (ruscifolia) fol. cordato-ovatis scssililus, Deu»

Lonicera (corymbosa) coryinbis terminalibus, fol. ovatis, acutis,
Uthiu.

Poinciana spinosa, vulgo Tara.

Pseudo-acacia foliis mucronatis, flore luteo, Mayu.

Page 133— Psoralea glandulosa, fol. omnibus ternatis, foliolis
ovato-lanceolutis, opic. pedunculatis, vulgo Cullen.

Page 135 — Cestrum nocturnum floribus pedunculatis, vulgo
Palqui.

Arbuscula 8-pedalis. Caules plurimi, fistulosi, erecti, teretes,
aculeati, superne dichotomi. Folia alterna, petiolata, ob-
longa, integra, venosa, carnosa, 4-pollicarea. Flores
corymbosi pedimculati. Calyx 5-fidus. Corolla brevion
Corolla monopetala, infundibulifonnis, limbo piano 5-par-
tito, flavescens. Bucca ovalis violacea.

Page 138— Datura arborea, pericarp; glabris inermibus nu-
tantibus, caule arboreo. Fioripondio.

Page 139— Boighe cinamomifera olivae fructu.

SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES,

ILLUSTRATIVE OF

THE HISTORY OF CHILI,

Extracted from an anonymous work, entitled, A Compendium of the
Geographical, Natural, and Civil History of Chili, printed in Bologna,
1776.

X HE Spaniards have divided that part of Chili belonging to
them, between the Andes and the sea, into fourteen provinces,
to which may be added the Archipelago of Chiloe, the islands
of Juan Fernandez, and the province of Cujo. Each of
these, excepting Valdivia and the islands of Juan Fernandez,
is the residence of a prefect called the Corregidor, who pre-
sides over the civil and military officers of his department,
and on whom the Cabildo, or magistrate, is dependant.
These provinces, commencing on the side of Peru, are :

1st. COPIAPO.

This province is bounded on the north by the deserts of
Peru, on the east by the Andes, on the south by Coquimbo,
and on the west by the Pacific Ocean. It is in length from
north to south about one hundred leagues, and in breadth
from east to west forty-four. It is watered by the rivers
Salado, Copiapo, from whence it derives its name, Castagno,
Totoral, Quebradaponda, Guasco, and Cbollai. It abounds
with gold, lapis lazuli, sulphur, and fossile salt, which is found
in almost all the mountains that terminate it to the east, Its
capital, of the same name, is situated upon the river Copiapo,
in 26, deg, 50. min, S, latitude, and 305. 5. W. longitude,

v4

296

It contains a parish, a convent of Mercedarii, and a college
which formerly belonged to the Jesuits. On the river Guasco
are situated the towns of Santa-Rosa and Guascoalto, both in
20 deg. of latitude, the first at four leagues distance from the
sea, and the second in the neighbourhood of the Andes. This
province has two ports, one at the mouth of the river Copiapo,
and the other at that of the Guasco, which are known by the
names of those rivers.

2d. COQUIMBO.

•
Coquimbo, bounded on the north by Copiapo, on the

east by the Andes, on the south-east by Aconcagua, on the
south-west by Quillota, and on the west by the sea, is forty-
live leagues in length, and forty in breadth. Its rivers are the
Coquimbo, Tongoi, Li man, and Chuapa. It is rich in gold,
copper, iron, wine, olives, and other fruits, both those of Eu-
ropean origin, and as such as are natural to the country. Its
capital is Coquimbo, otherwise called la Serena, which was
founded in the year 1544, by Pedro de Valdivia. This city
is the residence of several noble and ancient families ; it is
pleasantly situated upon the river Coquimbo, in 20,. deg. 49.
min. of latitude, and 304. 22. of longitude. The fields around
it are in a constant state of verdure, though it seldom rains
there, and the temperature of the air is very mild. It has
been several times taken and plundered by the English,
Besides the parochial church, it contains several convents of
monks- of different orders, and a college formerly belonging
to the Jesuits. There are two ports in this province, that of
Coquimbo, near the mouth of the river of that name, at two
leagues distance from the ciiy, where some vessels from Peru
load annually ; and that of Tongoi, towards the confines of
Quillota.

297

3d. QUILLOTA.

This province is bounded by that of Coquimbo on the
north, on the east by Aconcagua, on the sou Ji by Melipilla,
and on the west by the sea. It is twenty-five leagues in
length, and sixteen in breadth. Its rivers are the Lougotoma,
Ligua, Aconcagua, and Limache. This district is one of itie
most populous and the richest in gold of any in Chili. Its
hemp and honey are much esteemed. The capital, Quillota,
or St. Martin, is situated in a pleasant valley on the borders
of the river Aconcagua, in 32. 56. of latitude, and 304. 2*.
of longitude. It has a parish, with the churches of St. Do-
minick, St. Francis, St. Augustine, and a college formerly of the
Jesuits. This province contains also thp cities of Piazza,
Plazilla, Ingenio, Casablanca, and Petrorca. This last is very
populous, in consequence of the great number of miners who
resort thither to work in the gold mines in its vicinity. It is
situated on the river Longotoma, in 31. 30. south latitude, and
305. longitude. Quillota contains a number of ports, the
most considerable of which are Papudo, Quintiro l'Erradura,
Concon, and Valparaiso. The four first are not frequented ;
Valparaiso, or Valparadiso, the most commercial port of
Chili, from whence all the trade to Spain and Peru is carried
on, is in 32. 2. of latitude, and 304. 11. of longitude. The
harbour is very capacious, and so deep . that ships of the
largest size can lie close to the shore. Its convenience for
traffic, and the salubrity of its atmosphere, have rendered it
a place of considerable population. A governor from Spain
resides there, who has the command in the civil and military
departments, and is amenable only to the president of Chili.
Besides the college, which formerly belonged to the Jesuits,
Valparaiso contains a parish church and several convents of
monks. Upon the shore which forms the harbour is a well
peopled town, three miles distant from Valparaiso, called
I' Almendral.

298

4th. ACONCAGUA.

f Aconcagua is enclosed between the provinces of Co-
quimbo, Quillota, Santiago, and the Andes. It is of the
same size as Quillota, and is watered by the same river It
produces great quantities of grain and fruits, and much cop-
per is procured from its mountains. The famous silver mines
of Uspallata are situated in that part of the Andes correspond-
ing to it. Its capital is Aconcagua, or St. ' : Hip, upon the
river of the same name, in 32. 48. of latitude, and 305. 50.
of longitude. Besides a parochial church, it contains several
convents of various religious orders, and a house which be-
longed to the Jesuits. Near the Andes is a village called
Curimon, where the strict Franciscans have a numerous con-
vent.

5th. MELIPILLA.

Melipilla is bounded on the north by Quillota, on the
east by Santiago, on the south by the river Maypo, which di-
vides it from Rancagua, and on the west by the sea Ihis
province is of small extent upon the sea, but is about twenty-
five leagues from east to west. Its rivers are the Mapocho
and Poangue, and it abounds with wine and grain. Melipilla,
or St. Joseph de Logronno, situated not far from the Maypo,
in 32. 32. of latitude, and 304. 5. of longitude, is the capital.
Although the situation of this place is beautiful, and the land
near it very fertile, yet, from its vicinity to St. Jago, where the
greater part of the proprietors reside, it is but thinly peopled.
Notwithstanding, besides a parish church, the Augustines and
the Mercedarii have establishments there, and the Jesuits had
also a college. Near the river Mapocho is the town ©f St.
Francis del Monte, so called from an ancient convent of
Franciscans, around which a number of poor families having
collected, formed the population of this place, la its vicinity

299

arc several country houses belonging to some of the principal
inhabitants of St. Jago. Not far from the mouth of the
river Maypo is the port of St. Antonio ; this was much fre-
quented at an early period of the Spanish settlement, but since
the trade has been transferred to Valparaiso, few or no ves-
sels continue to load there.
•

6th. ST. JAGO, or ST. JACOPO.

The province of St. Jago is bounded by that of Aconca-
gua to the north, the Andes to the east, the river Maypo to
the south, and Melipilla to the west. It is fifteen leagues in
extent from east to west, and twelve from north to south, and
is watered by the rivers Mapocho, Colina, and Zampa, and by
several other beautiful streams. It i.lso contains the lake
Pudaguel, which is about three leagues in length. It is the
most fertile of any part of Chili, producing great quantities
of corn, wine, and fruits, particularly peaches, which in size and
flavour surpass any others of the country. The mountains of
Caren abound with mines of gold, and that part of the Andes
which is attached to it with silver. But the chief importance
of this province is derived from it being the seat of the
capital of the kingdom, founded in 1541, by Pedro de Val-
divia. This beautiful city, called St. Jago, stands on an ex-
tensive and delightful plain on the southern shore of the river
Mapocho, which separates it from the suburbs of Chimba,
Cannadilla, and Renca. It is supplied with water by a great
number of aqueducts, which are carried to all the houses. On
eaeh side of the river, mounds of stone have been built as a
security against inundations, and over it is a beautiful bridge
that connects the city with the suburbs. It is situated in 33
deg. 31 min. south latitude, and in 305. 40. longitude, at the
distance of thirty leagues from the sea, and seven from the
Andes, whose lofty snow-clad heights form a beautiful con-
trast with the verdure of its scenery. The streets, like those

800

of all the other cities and villages in Chili, are straight and
intersected at right angles, and are thirty-six geometrical feet
in breadth. The great square is four hundred and fifty
feet on each side. In the midst is a handsome fountain
of bronze. The north side is occupied by the palaces of
the presidents of the audience and of the city, beneath
which are the public prisons. On the oppQsite side is the
palace of the Count de Sierra-bella. On the western are the
cathedral and the palace of the archbishop, and on the east-
ern three houses belonging to noblemen. The most remark-
able edifices are the cathedral, the church of St. Dominick,
and that of the great college formerly belonging to the
Jesuits. The private houses are handsome and pleasant, but,
on account of earthquakes, are usually of but one story.
Besides the suburbs on the other side of the river, there is one
to the south, called St. Isidore ; it is very large, and separated
from the city by a street four times as broad as the others,
called Cannada. In the eastern part of the city is a hill,
called St. Lucia, which formerly served as a fortress against
the Indians. The inhabitants amount to forty-six thousand,
and their numbers increase rapidly, in consequence of the.
great commerce of the place, which is very extensive in pro-
tion to its population, as the houses are in general very com-
modious. The parochial churches are but four, the cathedral,
St. Anna, St. Isidore, and Renca. There are, however, several
convents of monks, two Dominican, four Franciscan, two Au-
gust in, two of the Mercedarii, and one belonging to the Brothers
of Charily with an hospital, besides seven nunneries, a house
of correction for women, a foundling hospital, several private
endowments, a college of nobility, which was under the direc-
tion of the Jesuits, and a Tridentiue seminary. The Jesuits
had likewise here a house of devotion, and three colleges
with public schools, wherein were taught the various branches
of learning. St Jago also contains a royal university, a mint
for coining gold and silver, and barracks for the soldiers, who

301

are employed to maintain the police, and as guards to the
president, and is the seat of the grand tribunals of the king-
dom. The principal court is composed of twelve Reqidoers,
or perpetual senators, and of all the other officers who form
the magistracy of the other cities of the country. It has a
numerous nobility, consisting of several dignities of Castile,
grandees, knights of the military orders of Spain, and Jhono-
rary officers of his Catholic Majesty. Being the centre of all
the commerce of Chili, it abounds with every convenience of
life, and as all kinds of meat, fish, and other articles of food
are obtained from the neighbouring provinces in great quan-
tities ; provisions are very cheap.

7th. RANCAGUA.

Rancagua is enclosed between the rivers Maypo imd
Cachapoal, and extends from the Andes to the sea. Its
breadth between these rivers is very unequal, being from
seventeen to only eight leagues. , It is watered by the rivers
Codegua, Chocalan, and several others that are of less im-
portance ; it contaius also the lakes Acnleu and Bucalemu.
The first, which is near the centre of the province, is about
six miles in circumference, and the other, in the neighbour-
hood of the sea, is from six to seven leagues in length. From
another lake, not far from the latter, large quantities of salt
are obtained. The lands of Rancagua are very fertile, and
produce much grain. Santa Cror.e di Trianna, or Rancagua,
the capital, is in 3 L deg. of latitude, and 305. 32 1 -ti.de.
It has a parish church, a convent of Franciscans, and another
of Mercedarii. Algue, a town recently founded, at eight
leagues from the capital towards the sea-coast, has a very rich
mine of gold.

302

8th. CALCHAGUA.

This province is situated between the rivers Cachapoal
and Teno, and between the Ancles and the sea. Its breadth
from north to south, near the Andes, is twenty-five leagues,
and near the sea, about fourteen. Its rivers are the Rio-
clarillo, Tinguiririca, and Chimbarongo. In it are also the
great lakes Taguatagua, and Caguil, the first of which is full
of beautiful islands, and the other abounds with large clamps,
that are highly esteemed. This province is very fertile in
grain, wine, and fruits, and produces much gold. It forms a
part of- the district occupied by the Promaucians, a name
signifying people of delight, derived from the beauty of the
country which they inhabit. The capital is St. Ferdinando,
which was built in the year 1742, not far from the pleasant
*iver Tinguiririca, in 34. 18. deg. of latitude, and 305. 30. of
longitude. Besides the parish church, it has a convent of
Franciscans, and a college with a handsome church, which be-
longed to the Jesuits. The towns of Rio-clarillo, Malloa, and
Roma, are also situated in the same province.

gth. MAULE.

M aule is bounded on the north by Calchagua, on the east
by the Andes, on the south-east by Chilian, the south-west by
Itata, and on the west by the sea. This province is forty-four
leagues long, and forty broad, and is watered by the rivers
Lantue, Rioclaro, Pangue, Lircai, Huenchullami, Maule, from
which it derives its name, Putagan, Achiguema, Longavi,
Lonconrilla, Purapel, and others of inferior consideration*
This province, as well as the preceding, abounds in grain,
wine, fruits, gold, salt, cattle, and sea and river fish. The
cheese made here is the best in Chili, and is no way inferior to
that of Placentia or Holland. Its inhabitants, who are mostly
the descendants of the valiant Promaucians, are courageous,
robust, and warlike. The capital Talca, or St. Augustin, was

2

303

built in the year 1742. It is situated among bills ou the river
Rioclaro, in latitude 34. 47. and 304. 45. of longitude. Its
population is very considerable, owing, not only to the rich
mines of gold that are found in its mountains, but to the plen-
tifulness of provisions, which are cheaper than in any other
part of Chili. This latter circumstance has induced several
noble families from St. Jago and Conception, whose finances
had become diminished, to retire thither ; an emigration which
has been denominated, in derision, the bankrupt colony. It
contains a parish, with convents of Monks of the Franciscan,
Dominican, Augustin, and Mercedarii orders, and a college
that belonged to the Jesuits. In this province are also the
towns of Curico, Cauquenes, St. Saverio di Bella Isla, St. An-
tonio della Florida, Lora, and three or four other Indian vil-
lages. Curico, or St. Joseph of Bueno Vista, was built in the
year 1742, and is situated in a pleasant plain at the foot of a
beautiful hill, in 34. 14. degrees of latitude, and 305 degrees
of longitude. It contains a parish church, a convent of Mer-
cedarii, and another of strict Franciscans, which is very large.
Cauquenes was built the same year, and lies in 35. 40. degrees
of latitude, and in 304. 30. of longitude, between the two
small rivers Tutuben and Cauquenes. Besides the parish
church, it has a convent of Franciscans. St. Saverio di Bella
Isla, and St. Antonio della Florida, were founded in the year
If 55 ; the first is in 35. 4. degrees of latitude, and S04. 59. of
longitude, and the second in 35. 20. of latitude, and 304. 41.
of longitude. Laro, situate near the disemboguement of the
river Mataquito, is a numerous settlement of Promaucian In-
dians, and is governed by a Cacique or Ulmen.

10th. ITATA.

The province of Itata lies upon the sea-coast, between
Maule and Puchacay, and is bounded on the east by Chilian.
From east to west it is twenty leagues in length, and from
north to south eleven, and 1s intersected by the river Itata,

304

from whence it derives its name/ The best wine of any in
Chili is obtained from this province, which, from its being
produced from lands belonging to the inhabitants of Con-
ception, has received the name of Conception. Much
gold is also found in the mountains, and in the sands of the
rivers. Its capital, Jesus of Coulemu, is situated near the
mouth of the river Itata, in 36. 2. degrees of latitude, and
305. 41. of longitude, and was founded in the year 17*43.

11th. CHILLAN.

Chillan is bounded on the north by Maule, on the east
by the Andes, on the south by Huilquilemu, and on the west
by the province of Itata. It is of the same extent as the
preceding, and is watered by the rivers Nuble, Cato, Chilian,
Diguillin, and Dannicalquin. This whole district is a plain,
and very favourable to the raising of sheep, which are highly
esteemed for their wool throughout the kingdom. Corn and
fruits are also produced there in great quantities. The capital
is called St. Bartholomew of Chilian. It was founded in the
year 1580, and is situated on the river Chillan, in 36 degrees
of latitude, and 305. 2. of longitude. It has been destroyed
several times by the Araucauians, and in the year 1751 was
overthrown by an earthquake. In consequence of this acci-
dent, the inhabitants transferred it the succeeding year to a
more commodious site, and one less exposed to the inim*
dations of the river. This city is well peopled, notwith-
standing which it contains but one parish church, with con-
vents of the Franciscan, Dominican, and Mercedarii orders,
and a college which belonged to the Jesuits.

12th. PUCHACAY.

Puchacay is bonnded on the north by the province of
Itata, on the east by Huilquilemu, on the south by the river
Bio-bio, and on the west by the sou. From north to south h

305

is twelve leagues in extent, and twenty from east to west. It
is irrigated by the river Andalieu and several other small
streams. It produces gold dust ia abundance, and also great
quantities of strawberries both wild and cultivated, which are
the largest in Chili. Gualqui, or St. John the Baptist,
founded in the year 1/54, upon the northern shore of the
river Bio-bio, in 36. 44. degrees of latitude, and 304. 48. of
longitude, is properly the capital, and the residence of the
Prefect or Corregidor. This province comprehends the
Prefecturate of Conception, which extends a little beyond the
city of that name.

Conception, called in the language of the country Ponco,
was founded, by Pedro di Vaidivia, in a dell, or valley,
formed on the sea-coast by some beautiful hills, in latitude
-36". 42. and longitude 303. 23. This city is the second in the
kingdom. At its commencement it flourished greatly, from
the vast quantities of gold that were dug in its vicinity ; but
after the unfortunate battle of Marriqueno, in the year 1554,
it was abandoned by Viliagran the governor, and the inhabit-
ants, on the approach of Lautaro, the Araucanian general,
and by him taken and burned. It was, however, rebuilt in the
month of November of the following year after a period of
six months; but Lautaro, returning, again rendered himself
master of it, slew in the assault the greater part of the garri-
son, and razed it to its foundations. Don Garcia de Mendoza,
after his victories over Caupolican, restored it anew, and for-
tified it strongly. Having successfully resisted the attempt of
the Araucanians to take it, who besieged it for fifty days, it
continued to flourish in great splendour until the year 1603,
when, with the other southern cities of the Spaniards, it was
taken and burned by the Toqui Paillamachu. It soon, how-
ever, began to rise again from its ashes, and resume its former
lustre, iu consequence of the great commerce which was car-
ried on there; and becoming more strong and populous than
ever, the Araucanians ceased to molest it. But in the year

vol. i. x

30(5

J 730, a calamity of a new kiud assailed it. It was almost
totally destroyed by an earthquake, attended by an inunda-
tion of the sea, _ which overflowed the greater pan, and swept
away every thing that it met in its course. Notwithstanding
these repeated misfortunes, the inhabitants obstinately re-
solved to persevere, and built it anew in a handsome manner,
but did not enjoy it long ; for, in the month of May of the
year l/5t, this devoted city was again destroyed by an earth-
quake and an influx of the sea, which entirely covered it.
They fortunately escaped, and took refuge on the neighbour.
in« bills, but continued for thirteen years in an unsettled state,
not being able to agree among themselves in rebuilding the city.
At leuglh they resolved to abandon its former site, and founded
a new city, at the distance of a league from the sea, in a beau-
tiful plain, called Mocha, upon the northern shore of the Bio-
bio. The Prefect, or Corregidor, is, at the same time, by the
royal decree, commander of the army, this being the principal
place for the rendezvous of the militia of the country. It has
for many years been the residence of the camp-master-gcneral,
and of late that of the sergeant-major. The royal treasury in
this place, from whence the soldiers of the frontiers, as well
as those belonging to the city, are paid, is confided to the care
of a treasurer, a cashier, and an inspector. The Audienza, or
I oval council, was first established in Conception, in the year
1.567, hut was afterwards abolished, and re-established some
years after in the capital of St. Jago. The president is, how-
ever, obliged to reside in this city for si\ months, and has a
palace in it built at_the expense of the government: After the
destruction of the city of Imperial, in the year 1603, it was
erected into a bishopric. Besides containing convents of all
the religious orders established in Chili, it has one of the
listers o.' the Trinity, a college which belonged to the Jesuits,
with public schools, in which were taught the sciences of hu-
manity, philosophy, and theology, a college of nobiiity, which
svas likewise under the direction of the Jesuits, and a Trideu-

307

tine seminary. The inhabitants, in consequence of so many
misfortunes, scarcely amount at present to thirteen thousand.
The temperature of the air is at all seasons very mild ; the soil
fertile, and the sea-coast abounds with every species of fish of
the most delicious lands, bulh scaled and testaceous. The
harbour, or bay, is spacious, extending full three leagues and
a hvrli" from north to south, and as man; from east to west.
The Quinquina, a beautiful and fertile island, situated at its
mouth, forms two entrances to it, the eastern of which, called
Bucca Grande, is two miles wide, and the western, called
Bocca Ckica, is but a little more than a mile. The harbour
a fiords good and safe anchorage for vessels of any burden,
especially iu a port called Tulcaguano, where ships at present
lie, as the new city is not far distant,

13th. HUILQUILEMU.

The province of Huilquilemu, commonly called Estanzia del
Rei, the royal possession, is situated between Chilian, the
Andes, the river Bio bio and Pucachay, and is in length and
breadtli the same as the preceding. Its rivers are the Itata,
Claro, Laxa, and Duqueco. This district is rich in gold dust,
and produces an excellent muscadcl wine. The inhabitants
are valiant and warlike, having been accustomed to fight with
their formidable neighbours the Araucanians. The capital is
called Estanzia del Rei, or St. Lewis di Gonzaga, and was
built not many years since, near the Bio-bio, in 36 deg. 45 mi-
nutes of latitude, and 304. 48. of longitude. Besides the
parish church there is an ancient college of the Jesuits. To
protect this province from the incursions of the Araucanians,
the Spaniards have erected, upon the shore of the Bio-bio,
within their territory, the forts of Jumbel, Tucapen, St. Bar-
bara, and Puren. Their barrier, however, is situated on the
southern bank of that river, and consists of the foits of Arau-
co, Colcura, St. Pedro, St. Joanna, Nascimento, and Angeles.

X 2

308

14lh. VALDIVIA.

This province is entirely separated from all the others pos-
sessed by the Spaniards in Chili, being situated in the midst of
the country occupied by the Araucanians, which comprehends
a tract of about seventy leagues in length. It lies upon the
sea-coast, on both sides of the great river Valdivia, and on the
south is bounded by the Guinchi, or Cunchi, who are in pos-
session of its southern part. It is about twelve leagues long,
and six broad, and abounds with valuable timber, and with
gold dust, esteemed the purest of any in Chili. Its capital is
the famous city, fortress, and port of Valdivia, situated on the
southern shore of the river of that name, at three leagues dis-
tance from the sea, in 3<). 58. degrees of latitude, and 305. 2.
of longitude. This city was founded in the year 1551, by the
conqueror Pedro de Valdivia, who gave it his name, and ob-
tained immense sums of gold from its vicinity. Its wealth
allured many inhabitants thither, and it became, even at its
commencement, one of the most populous cities in the king-
dom. It was twice besieged ineffectually by the Toqui Cau-
polican, but it was not so fortunate in resisting the talents and
activity of the celebrated Paillamachu. In the year 1 599 it
was surprised at night by that general with four thousand men,
who killed the greater part of the garrison, consisting of eight
hundred soldiers, and, having burned the city, carried off a
million in gold, and a valuable booty, consisting of the effects
of the inhabitants, together with a great number of prisoners.
The Spaniards, convinced of the importance of this situation,
rebuilt it anew, and fortified it so strongly, that it resisted all
the attempts of the Araucanians. It was, however, taken iu
the year 1 640 by the Dutch, who, notwithstanding they were
determined to keep it, were compelled to abandon it, being
frustrated in their attempts to form an alliance with the Arau-
canians and the Cunchi, who even refusal to supply them with
provi^i'ms, of which they were in great want. The Sjnuiiards,

309

who had fitted out a considerable fleet to retake it, finding it
on their arrival abandoned, repaired and fortified it in a better
manner than before, adding four strong castles or forts upon
both sides of the river towards the sea, to defend it from
foreign invasion, and another on the north, to protect it from
the incursions of the Araucanians. These precautions have
hitherto succeeded in securing it against external enemies, but
it has suffered severely from fire, which has twice almost en-
tirely destroyed it. The harbour is situated in a beautiful bay,
formed by the river, and is the safest, the strongest from its
natural position, and the most capacious of any of the ports in
the South Sea. The island of Manzera, situated just in the
mouth of the river, forms two passages, bordered by steep
mountains, and strongly fortified. As this is a post of the
most importance of any in the Pacific, a governor is always
sent from Spain, who possesses reputation as a military officer,
and is under the immediate direction of the president of the
kingdom. He has under his command a considerable number
of troops, who are officered by the five castellans, or comJ
manders of the castles, a sergeant-major, a proveditor, an in-
spector, and several captains. For the pay of the soldiers
thirty-six thousand crowns are annually sent hither from the
royal treasury of Peru, and the provisions requisite for their
subsistence from the other ports of Chili. The Jesuits had
formerly a college here ; there are besides some convents of
Franciscans, and of the Brothers of Charity, with a royal hos-
pital, aud the parish church.

THE ARCHIPELAGO OF CHILOE

Is a great gulph or bay at the southern extremity of Chili,
scooped out, as it were, in a circular form by the South Sea
to the skirts of the Andes. This gulph extends from latitude
41. 20. to 44. 40. and from longitude 303. to 304. 50. The
islands that it contains amount to forty-seven, of which thirty-

*3

810

two have been peopled by the Spaniards or Indians, and the
remaining are uninhabited. Among the former there is one
that is very large, some that are of a moderate size, being
from twelve to fifteen leagues id leng'h, but the others are
small. The large island, which is called Chiloe, has, in later
times, communicated its name to the Archipelago, which was
formerly known by that of Ancud. This island, whose western
coast runs from north to south, the same course as that of the
continent, is situated in the very mouth of the gulph, leaving
only two passages, one of which, between its northern extre-
mity and the shore of the continent, is little more than three
miles in breadth; but the other, between its southern point
and the font of the Andes, is more than twelve leagues. This
island is situated between the forty-first and a half, and the
forty-fourth degrees of latitr.de, and is about sixty leagues in
length, and twenty in its greatest breadth. The laud, like that
of all the other islands, is mountainous, and covered with al-
most impenetrable thickets. The rains are excessive, and only
in the autumn do the inhabitants enjoy fifteen or twenty days
of fair weather in succession. During any other season, were
eight days to pass without rain, it would be esteemed a sin-
gular phenomenon. The atmosphere, of course, is very
humid, and streams and rivers are to be found in every part.
The air, notwithstanding, is very salubrious, and the tempera-
ture so mild, that it is never known to be either hot or very
eold. Owing to the great degree of moisture, grain and fruits
produce but very indifiereuthj in these islands; the corn, how-
ever, that is raised there is sufficient for the supply of the in-
habitants. Barley, beans, and ilax, produce very well. Of
kitcheu herbs, the cabbage and garlic are the only ones that
grow there. The grape never attains to maturity, and the
same is the case with all other fruits, except the apple and
some wildings. Beef, though not so plenty as in Chiii, is bv
no means scarce. Horses, though not in such numbers as o'u
the continent, are yet common, and there is scarcely a person

311

who is not the owner of one or two. Asses die in a short time
after they are transported thither, whence there is not a mule
to be found throughout the whole of the Archipelago. The
animals that are met with in the greatest abundance are sheep
and hogs, in which the inhabitants carry on a considerable
trade. The wild animals, natural to the country, are deers,
otters, and a species of black fox. Domestic fowls, as well
as wild, are produced there in great numbers. In addition to
these, the benevolent Author of Nature has, as an indemnity
for those things of which they are destitute, provided all these
islands with vast quantities of excellent fish of all kinds. Am-
bergris, of a superior quality, is also found there, and much
honey, which is made by the wild bees. Wood is likewise
very plentiful, and of a kind fitted for every sort of manu-
facture and ship-building

This Archipelago was first discovered in the year 1558, by
Dou Garcia de Mendoza, governor of Chili, but no attempt
was then made to conquer it. But in 1505, Don Martino Ruiz
Gamboa was sent there, who, with only sixty men, subjected
its inhabitants, to the number of seventy thousand, without
experiencing the least resistance, and founded, in the principal
island, the city of * Castro and the pott of Chaca. These
Indians, called Chilotes, remained submissive to Spain, until
the present century, when they threw oft the yoke, but '•• ere
soon brought under subjection, through the conduct of
general Don Pedro Molina, who was sent from Conception to
reduce them to obedience. Although descended from the
Chilians, whom they resemble in appearance, custom, and lan-
guage, these people are extremelv timid, and very docile.
They are remarkable for their ingenuity, and readily acquire
a knowledge of any thing to which they apply themselves.
There are among them very expert carpenters, cabinet-makers,

* He called it ?o in honour of Lope Garcia de Castro, then Viceroy
of Peru, and gave his own name, Gamboa, to the river which passes by
it.— £. E.

X 4

312

ami turners. In the manufacturing of flax and wool, they
display much skill, and make beautiful bed-coverings from
these materials, mixed with feathers, and also some cloths,
which they embroider with various colours. They have a
strong attachment to a sea life, and become excellent sailors.
Their barks, called piragues, consist of three or four large
planks sewed together, and caulked with a kind of oakum or
moss, collected from a shrub. These are very numerous
throughout the Archipelago, and are managed with sails and
oars, and voyages are often made in them as far as Concep-
tion. The Chilotes educate their sons well, and accustom
them to labour at an early age. When taught, they make a
rapid progress in learning. Some years since, a school was
established for them in a village called Chonchi, into which
one hundred and fifty were admitted, and all of them, in the
space of a single year, were taught reading and writing, the
first rules of arithmetic, the doctrines of Christianity, and the
Spanish language. They were easily converted to Christianity,
and they live in such strict regard to its duties, that the purity
of the primitive church appears to be revived in them. Some
tribes of savages have likewise settled in these islands, who
have been persuaded by the missionaries to leave the Magel-
lanic districts, in order to establish themselves in the Archi-
pelago.

The government h vested in a governor, who is dependant
upon the president of Chili, and resides at Chacao, a Cabildo,
or magistrate, with his Prefect, or Corregidor, in the city of
Castro, who have conjunctively cognizance of the private suits
of the Indians, and a commandant in the island of Calbuco,
situated in the northernmost part of the gulph. The Archi-
pelago is divided into three parishes, dependant upon the dio-
cese of Conception, the bishops of which, except one and a
bishop in partilus, never go there, because of the danger of
the voyage. It contains seventy-five towns, mostly inhabited
by Indians, who are under the government of their Ulmenes^

313

in each of which the Jesuits had a missionary church. The
two principal places are Castro and Chacao.

Castrq, the capital of the whole Archipelago, is situated in
the eastern part of the great island, upon an arm or gulpn of
the sea, in *42. 58. degrees of S. latitude, and 303. 15. of Ion*
gitude. The houses, like those in all the other islands, are
buiit of wood. The inhabitants, who are not f numerous,
usually live upon their own possessions. Besides the parish
church and the college, formerly belonging to the Jesuits,
there is a convent of Franciscans, and another of Mercedarii,
in which two or three monks reside. The port of Chacao lies
nearly in the middle of the northern coast of the same island,
upon the principal channel, which runs between that shore arid
the continent, in 42 degrees of latitude, and 307. 37. of lon-
gitude. This port has good anchorage, and is well defended
from the winds, but the entrance is very difficult, owing in
some measure to the currents and eddies that prevail in the
channel, but principally to a rock that rises in the narrowest
part of it, and is not visible except at ebb. The whole com-
merce of the Archipelago is carried on from this port, in four
or five ships that come here annually from Peru, or from the
ports on the continent of Chili. This traffic is entirely con-
ducted by bartering the productions of the country for those
articles that are brought, money being very scarce in these
islands. Upon the arrival of the ships, the Cabildo, or ma-
gistrate of Castro, has the privilege of sending two deputies
to tax the goods brought in them, and make an eslimale of
their prices, which is to regulate the sale. This trade, by the
royal grant, is not subjected to the duties that are paid in the
other ports.

* 42. 40. S. longitude 302, according to Agueros. — E. E.

+ The constant residents are not more than one hundred and fifty. An
earthquake ruin.i the city soon after its foundation, and there were feV
inducements to rebuild it. — E. E.

jigueros.

3i4t

THE ISLANDS OF JUAN FERNANDEZ.

These islands are about one hundred and thirty leagues
distant from the coast of Chili. They are situated in about
32. 42. degrees of latitude, and 297. 32. of longitude. The
island of Fuera is about three miles in length ; the land is very
high, or rather a steep mountain, rising abruptly from the sea,
having no harbours, or stations, where ships may remain
secure, in consequence of the great depth of water that sur-
rounds it. This island is full of beautiful trees and streams-
of good water, according to the information of the fishermen,
who are in the habit of landing there. The island of Terra is
eleven or twelve miles long by three broad. The land is prin-
cipally mountainous, broken, and intersected by ravines,
caused by the frequent torrents and streams which descend
from the mountains. It abounds with excellent v>ood, among
which are the sandal, the yeilow wood, and the chonta, a spe-
cies of the palm, which produces a fruit that is far from un-
pleasant; the wood of the trunk, which is hollow like a reed,
becomes of a beautiful black, and is nearly as hard as iron.
Lord Anson represents this island as a terrestrial paradise,
but in reality its soil is infested with worms that destroy every
thing. The coast abounds with lobsters, cod, and other fish,
and with aquatic animals, in Which its trade, which is very
considerable, consists. This island was first discovered by
Juan Fernandez, from whom it received its name, and who
formed a settlement there, and brought over from the conti-
nent some goals that multiplied to an astonishing degree. After
his dtath it was d serted, in which state it continued for some
time ; but the Spaniards perceiving of what importance to
them the possession of these islands had become, in 1750
made a permanent establishment in that of Terra, and settled
the port called Juan Fernandez, on the south-west coast. The
president of Chili appoints its governor, who « usually one of
the commanders upon the Araucaniau frontier. Besides the.

315

port of Juan Fernandez, there is another. Ising towards the
south, called the English harbour, from the circumstance of
Lord Anson's squadron having anchored there ; but it is in-
secure, being too much exposed to the wiuds.

CUJO.

Although Cujo is not strictly within the limits of Chili,
yet as it is dependant upon the presidency of that kingdom, it
will not be improper to take a brief notice of it in this account.
It is bounded on the north by Tucuman, on the east by the
Pampas, or deserts of Buenos Ayres, on the south by Pata-
gonia, and on the west by the Andes, which separate it from
Chiii. Its leugthYrom east to west is one hundred and eleven
leagues, and its breadth, from north to south, about one hun-
dred and ten, being comprehended between the 2Qth and
35th degrees of latitude. In its temperature, as well as in
the greater part of its productions, this province differs mate-
rially from Chili. The winter, although it is there the dry
season, is very cold ; in the summer the heat is excessive as
well during the night as the day, and storms of thunder aud
hail are very frequent. In the western part of the province
these storms commonly rise and disperse in the space of half
an hour, and the heat of the sun, bursting with increased
radiance from the clouds, in a few minutes dries up the mois-
ture. In consequence of this sudden exsiccation, the land, if
not watered by artificial means, becomes arid, and will bear
neither grass nor trees, but when irrigated by canals, it pro-
duces almost every vegetable in astonishing abundance. The
fruits and grains of Europe thrive there extremely well, and
come to maturity a month earlier than in Chili, and the wines
are rich and of an excellent body.

This province is intersected by three rivers from the Andes,
that of St. Juan, and those of Meudoza and Tunujan. The
two first receive their names from the cities that they lave, and
after a course of from twenty-five to thirty leagues become

316

stationary, and form the celebrated lakes of Guanasachc,
which extend more than fifty leagues from north to south »
and, at length, through a channel that receives the river Tu-
nujan, lose themselves in the Pampas. These lakes abound
with excellent trout and king fish, and all the salt that is used
in Cujo is obtained from them. The eastern part of this pro-
vince, called la Punta, presents an appearance entirely dif-
ferent from the rest, and is watered by the rivers Contara and
Quinto, and by several other streams. The plains are covered
with beautiful trees, and the herbage grows to such a height,
as in many places to conceal the horses ; but thunder storms
are more violent than in any other part of Cujo, and continue
for hours accompanied with immoderate rain.

Of the trees of Cujo, one of the most remarkable is that
called Palma, from its resembling, in its branches and fruit,
the palm of Chili; it differs, however, in its height, which
never exceeds eighteen feet, and in the manner of putting
forth its branches, which are so pear the ground as to prevent
the trunk from being seen. Its leaves are hard, and terminate
in a point as sharp as that of a sword. The fruit, though si-
milar in appearance to the cocoa-nut, contains no kernel or
substance that is edible, but merely a few round hard seeds.
The most singular part of this tree is the stem, or trunk, which
is very large. The outer bark is blackish, and is easily de-
tached ; this is succeeded by five or six interior layers, of so
perfect a texture that they appear as if wrought in a loom.
The first is of a yellowish colour, and of the consistency of
sail cloth ; the others regularly decrease in thickness, and be-
come gradually whiter to the innermost, which is as fine and
white as cambric, but of a looser texture. The thread of
these cloths is strong and flexible, but not so soft to the touch
as that of flax. Cujo also contains great quantities of the
Opuntia, a species of Cactus that furnishes the cochineal. The
natives have a practice of stringing these insects upon a thread
with a needle, which communicates to them a blackish lint.

317

This plant produces a woolly fruit, of the size of a peach, of
a glutinous substance, containing a great quantity of seeds. It
is sweet and well flavoured, and is easily preserved by cutting
it into slices, and drying them in the sun. The tree that pro-
duces the Greek or Turkey bean, is common throughout the
province ; it is of four kinds, two of which are good eating ; of
the others, one is used as provender for horses, and the othet
in making ink. Among the plants of Cujo is one that is very
singular; it is called the flower of the air, from its having no
root, nor ever being fixed to the earth. Its native situation is
an arid rock, or a dry tree, around which it entwines itself.
This plant consists of a single shoot, resembling the stock of
the gillyflower, but its leaves are larger and thicker, and so
hard that they seem to the touch like wood. Each shoot, or
stalk, produces two or three white transparent flowers, in size
and shape resembling the lily ; they are full as odoriferous as
that flower, and may be preserved fresh for more tlian two
mouths on their stalks, and for several days when plucked off".
But the most wonderful property of this plant is, that it may
be transported without any difficulty for upward of three hun-
dred miles, and will produce flowers annually if only sus-
pended upon a nail.

This province abounds with birds, among which are two
parrots that are different from those of Chili. The first is a
little less than the turtle dove, and has a green back and
whitish belly ; the other, called periquito, is rather larger. Its
plumage is a dark green, except the head, which is black, and
a mixture of red upon the back. The partridges are of two
kinds. The first, called martinet la, is of the size of a domestic
fowl, has a beautiful tuft upon its head, and is adorned with
handsome plumes of various colours ; its flesh is very delicate,
and its eggs are green. The common partridge is in great
abundance, and so tame that a man with a reed, to which a
snare is fastened, will take twenty or thirty of them in a few
hours. The abhanil, or mason, so calkd from the manner of

31S

constructing its habitation, is a snuff-colomed bird, of the size
of a thrush ; before it begins to build, it mixes clay very care-
fully with feathers and pieces of stiau ; I lieu dividing it into
little balls, carries them in its claws and bill to its mate, who
first forms the boltum upon tin trunk of a tree, into a circle
of eight or nine inches in diameter, making it perfectly smooth ;
upon this it raises a wall about a baud's breadth in height,
leaving a small aperture to go in at ; it next proceeds to lay a
second floor, which contains the nest, and also an opening
communicating with the lower room ; when this is completed,
it continues the surrounding wall to the same height as the
first, and covers the whole with a handsome arch. This edi-
fice becomes, when dry, so firm as to resist the most violeut
winds and rain. In the northern parts of this province is a
species of pheasant called chunna, which is as large as a hen,
and of an ash colour; the flesh is as delicate as that of the
European pheasant. This bird is easily domesticated, and
performs in houses the office of a e«t, freeing them from mice,
which it eats very readily ; but it is kept by few, on account of
its disagreeable note, and a mischievous propensity of carrying
away in its beak and concealing whatever it finds. Of turtle
doves, besides the comrajpn species, there is one that is not
larger than a sparrow. Ostriches are common, and bees are
found every where, particularly in the eastern plains, and pro-
duce excellent honey. Grasshoppers appear there occasionally,
in such numbers that they cover many miles of country, and
destroy every green thing that they meet with; these are
usually three inches in length, but they are sometimes to be
seen as large as a pilchard, and from seven to eight inches
long.

There are many animals in Cujo that are not to be found in
Chili, as tigers, boars, stags, the land tortoise, the viper,
Iguana, and several others. The tigers are ferocious, like those
of Africa, and as large as an ass, but with shorter legs; the
skiu is mottled with white, yellow, and black. The inha-

319 . .

bitants kill lliem with lances of five or six feet in length
armed with a sharp iron. The method they adopt is for two
persons to be in readiness, while a third, who has the spear,
provokes the tiger, who rushes upon him with inconceivable
fury, and impales himself upon the weapon, which the hunter
keeps constantly directed towards him, when the two others
come up and dispatch him. The Iguana is an animal of the
lizard kind, about three feet in length; the. colour is blackish,
the eyes round, and the flesh white and tender. It feeds upon
grass and wild fruits. The country people, who eat it, think
its flesh far preferable to that of a chicken.

In the northern parts of this province are mines of gold and
copper, but they are not worked, owing to the indolence of
the inhabitants. There are also rich mines of lead, vitriol,
sulphur, salt, coal, gypsum, and talc. The mountains in the
neighbourhood of Juan -are wholly composed of strata ofwhite
marble, from five to six feet in length, and from six to seven
inches thick, which are regularly cut and polished by the hand
of Nature. The inhabitants make from it a beautiful lime,
and employ it in building bridges over their canals. Between
the cities of Mendozaaud La Punta, upon a low range of hills,
is a large stone pillar, one hundred and fifty feet high, and
twelve feet in diameter. It is called the giant, and contains
certain marks or inscriptions, resembling Chinese characters.
Near the Diamond river is also another stone, containing some
marks, which appear to be ciphers or characters, and the im-
pression of a man's feet, with the figures of several animals.
The Spaniards call it the stone of St. Thomas, from an ac-
count which they pretend the first settlers received from the
Indians, that a white man, with a long beard, formerly
preached to their ancestors a new religion from that stone, and,
as a proof of its sanctity, left upon it the impression of his feet,
and the figures of the animals that came to hear him. This
man they suppose to have been St. Thomas, from a tradition
, of his having preached in America.
3

320

The aboriginal inhabitants of Cujo, of whom there are at
present but a few remaining, are called Guarpes, they are
thin, brown, and of a lofty stature, and speak a different lan-
guage from the Chilians. The Peruvians were the first who
conquered these people, after having possessed themselves of
the northern provinces of Chili. On the road over the Andes,
from Cujo to Chili, are still to be seen some small stone edi-
fices, erected for the accommodation of the officers and mes-
sengers of that empire. The first Spaniards who entered this
province were commanded by Francis Aguirre, who was sent
from Chili by Valdivia, and who quitted it on learning the
death of that general. In the year 1560, Don Garcia di
Mendoza sent thither Pedro Castillo, who subdued the
Guarpes, and founded the cities of St. Juan and Mendoza.

Mendoza, the capital, is situated on a plain at the foot of tlte
Andes, in 33 degrees 1 9 minutes south latitude, and in 308,
31. west longitude. The 'number of its inhabitants is estimated
at six thousand. Besides the parish church, it contains a col-
lege which belonged to the Jesuits, convents of the orders of
St. Francis, St. Dominick, Sta Augustine, and the Mercedarii.
This city carries on a considerable commerce in wine and
fruits with Buenos Ayres ; and its population is continually in-
creased from its vicinity to the famous silver mine of Uspallata,
which the inhabitants work to great profit.

St. Juan, which is forty-five leagues from Mendoza, is also
situated near the Andes, in 31.4. degrees of latitude, and 308.
31. of longitude. It has the same number of inhabitants,
churches, and convents as Mendoza, and trades with Buenos
Ayres, in brandy, fruits, and Vicugna skins. The pome-
granates of its vicinity are greatly esteemed in Chili, for their
size and sweetness. Tiiis city is governed by a Cabildo, and a
Lieutenant of the Prefect, or Corregidor of Mendoza.

In the year 1 5£>6~, the small city of La Punta, or St. Lodo-
vico of Loyolo, was founded in the eastern part of Cujo ; it
received its name from Don Martin Loyolo, at that time go-

321

vernor of Chili, and is situated in 33. 47. degrees of latitude,
and in 311. 32. of longitude, at the distance of about 62 leagues
from Mendoza. Notwithstanding it is the thoroughfare of all
the commerce between Chili, Cujo, and Buenos Ayres, it is a
miserable place, and the inhabitants scarcely amount to two
hundred. It has a parish church, one that belonged to the
Jesuits, and a convent of Dominicans. The civil and military
government of this city, as well as of its jurisdiction, which is
very extensive and populous, is administered by a Lieutenant
or Vicar of the Corregidor of Mendoza. Besides these cities,
Cujo contains the towns of Jachal, Vallofertil, Mogna, Coro-
corto, Leonsito, Calingarta, and Pismanta, but these do not
merit particular attention.

The Patagonians, who border upon Chili, and of whose
gigantic stature so much has been written in Europe, from the
most accurate information, differ not materially in this respect
from other men. The Pojas, who form one of their tribes,
live under the government of several petty princes, indepen-
dent of each other. These people acknowledge the existence
of a Supreme Being, and believe in the immortality of the
soul. A singular kind of polygamy prevails among them, the
women being permitted by their laws to have several hus-
bands. As to the Cesari, the supposed neighbours of the Chi-
lians, of whom such wonderful stories are told, they are merely
an imaginary people, who have no existence but in the fancy
of those who take a pleasure in the marvellous.

END OP VOt. I.

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