THE LIBRARY

OF

THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA

PRESENTED BY

PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND
MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID

9)

THE

GREAT THIRST LAND

A Ride through Natal, Orange Free State,
Transvaal, and Kalahari Desert.

BY

PARKER GILLMORE,

Author of "Afloat and Ashore," " All Round the World" " Prairie and Forest,
" Gun, Rod, and Saddle" "Accessible Field Sports," "Adventures in the Far
H't-st," "Prairie Farms and Prairie Folks" "Lone Life," §c. $c.

WITH A FRONTISPIECE.

CASSELL FETTER & GALPIN-.

LONDON, PARIS # NEW YORK.

[ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.]

MY DEAR OLD MOTHER

/ DEDICATE THIS BOOK,

AS A SLIGHT RETURN FOR THE

MANY ANXIOUS HOURS I HAVE CAUSED HER WHEN "WANDERING
IN DISTANT LANDS.

PARKER GILLMOPvE.

PREFACE.

I SHOOT for the pot — id est, to fill the pot; when that is
done I cease to take the lives of valuable, food-furnishing
animals. Thus I have to record no wonderful bags
of game, but simply the killing of what was absolutely
necessary for the support of myself and attendants.

Further, this narrative is written with the hope
of amusing and instructing the general reader, as well
as to impart information to the sportsman, that will
enable him to find the lion and the elephant.

Moreover, let no one be led away with the idea
that every one has the privilege of shooting in these
distant parts. So far from this being the case, it is
only by special favour one can obtain permission to
hunt large game in " The Great Thirst Land."

And, lastly, I would say that with moderate ex-
penditure and half a dozen attendants I will pass
through Africa from south to north, and probably not
take more than a year to do it. My method is sim-
plicity itself, and would probably not involve the death
of a human being. The modus operandi, however, will
only be imparted to those desirous to assist me in the
undertaking.

P. G.

15, Claverton Street,

London, S.W.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

AN INVITATION TO TRAVEL.

PAGE

Herefordshire — The Term " Hunting " — A Visit to the West — An Invitation
— My Friend Morris — Sport in the Highlands — The Battery — Buying
Guns — Our Armament — Beads and Gewgaws — Particulars of our Per-
sonal Outfit 1

CHAPTER II.

FROM LONDON DOCKS TO DARTMOUTH.

Berths booked — Scenes at Parting — Bustle at the Docks — Brusque John Bull
and Polite Frenchman — Our Vessel — British and French Sailors —
Good-byes at Gravesend — Down Channel — Dutch Galliots — French
Luggers — Johnny Crapaud — A Fruiterer — Opposition Sailing on the
Mississippi — Beauty of Dartmouth 9

CHAPTER m.

MY FELLOW-PASSENGERS.

Our Cuisine — Eeminiscences of Olden Days — Plum Duff — A Yarn — An Old
Acquaintance — " The Plunger " — Mr. Holly — The Clergyman — A Pilau
a la Chinoise — Mr. and Mrs. Crommy 17

CHAPTER IV.

FROM MADEIRA TO THE CAPE.

A Charmed Island — Madeira from the Sea — Its Foreign Aspect — Old Build-
ings and their Inmates — New Blood Wanted — Land Sharks — Its Horses
— Teneriffe — A Splendid Picture — African Memories — " Whales ! " —
Experience Teaches Whales — Porpoises, Bonito, and Skip- Jacks — Amuse-
ments on Board Ship — A Death at Sea — Holly redivivus — The Plunger's
Little Game— The Poundmaster's Ignorant Insolence — Table Bay . . 24

viii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER Y.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF SOUTH AFRICA.

PAGE

Holly joins us — On the Look-out for a Coaster — Our Plans Altered — We
Purchase a Wagon — A Visit to Eondebosch and Constantia — A Private
Garden — South African Pick-me-up not to be recommended — Adieu to
Cape Town— We reach Port Elizabeth— A Funny Lot of Visitors— The
Poundmaster exposed — Port Elizabeth — The Florence — East London —
Its Dangerous Roadstead — First Sight of Game — Arrival at Port Durban
— Its Bar — A Day Lost in Sight of Land — Preparing for our Journey
—Port Durban— The Upper and Middle Classes— The "Smart" Men
of Durban — A Splendid Ride— The Best Drivers in the World . . 34

CHAPTER VI.

MR. PREFER, OF PREFER'S HOTEL.

A Week of Laughter— Mine Host — An Oddity — His Peculiar Way of trans-
acting Business — Prefer' s Nationality — "All mine, all mine" — Pound
your Cattle — Various Purchases of Live Stock — I ride on to Howick — A
Fearful Storm — Summit House — Howick — Its Loveliness — No Wagon —
A Chapter of Accidents — Holly dismissed — Zeiderberg's Team — Reach
Howick at last — Catch a Cropper almost 46

CHAPTER VII.

SAULTED HORSES — YOKE-OXEN — MY ATTENDANTS.

Horse-sickness — Where found — Season of the Epidemic — Its Racial Effects
— Symptoms — Value of Saulted Horses — Death of a Horse from this
Disease — Suggested Remedies — Lung-sickness — Proposed Cures — Lead-
ing Oxen — Hints for the Proper Care of Oxen — Dental Surgeon, pro tern.
— I extract the Wrong Tooth — Difficulties about my Attendants — Sus-
picious Cattle-dealers — Their Little Game — Caution to Travellers — How
Missionaries get on — Umganey — Jim — Imp — The Interpreter's Speech
—A Secret Benefactor 56

CHAPTER VIII.

BREAKS-DOWN ON THE ROAD.

Treck-tow Smashed — Treachery — For Hire — Reinforcements — On the Move
at Last — Another Delay — On the Road again — A Long Three-miles Ride
— Difficulties of Getting to the Game — Hints — Sunday Peace — Mine
Host — A Canny Scot — Mr. Currie comes to Terms — Our New Boy —
Everything going right now — The Driver's Villainy — I give him a
Thrashing — Skimmel-pin Broken — The Wagon seemingly a Wreck —
Vexation of Spirit — Morris starts to Buy a New Skimmel-pin — Un-
loading the Wagon — Boers to the Rescue — A Diplomatic Palaver — Coffee
and Rum — The Boers' Family Love — More Soupje — Help Purchased —
Out of Trouble . 65

CONTENTS. ix

CHAPTER IX.

OUR BOER ASSISTANTS — AN UNEXPECTED MEETING.

PAGE

Pow-wow with the Boers — A Bargain struck — The Intimidation Game — The
Cattle-dealer Checkmated— At a Standstill— In Karkloof Valley— A
Meeting of Boers — Propitiatory Beverage — The Sort of Men they were
— The Boer — More Outlay — My After-oxen, Ackerman and Brightman
— Morris ill — In my hands — An Unexpected Pleasure — Jack Bennett —
More Friends — Merry-making — Holly to the fore again — A Magnificent
Midnight Scene — Bontebuck — Camp struck and Friends part . . 78

CHAPTER X.

MY FRIEND INVALIDED.

One of the Boers' Wagons comes to Grief — "We arrange for a New Wheel —
A Useful Hill— Wilful William— Another Smash— Our Dogs— Mother
and Child — Working like Slaves — No Progress — Off for Help— Hill
Cattle in Africa — Friendly English — They put us to rights — Bushman's
Biver — Accidents to our Horse and Pony — The Superintendent of the
Natal Mounted Police — Morris so 111 that he must Recruit — A Sad Meal
—I Part from my Friend — Holly's Sorrow — Alone — Off for a Hunt — The
Natal Partridge— Quail — The Dogs in Full Cry — Filling a Pipe : the
Various Processes, hurriedly, meditatively, angrily — A Shot at Bush-
buck — The Game at Bay — Bring it Down — A Warning about Bush-buck 90

CHAPTER XI.

CROSSING THE DRACKENBBRG.

Colenso — Curious Custom of Naming Towns — An Excellent Cuisine — A Smart
v. a Handsome Man — The Men who get on — " The Eising Sun " — Fish
for Dinner — Are not Sardines Fish ? — Night-marches — Umganey is
" Bass's Boy " — The Lad's Willingness — Morris Rejoins me — White
Savages — The Great Phairshon — William's Masterly Activity — Choco-
late-making— Ready for the Ascent of the Drackenberg — The Shooting
of Olephunts — " Do you Englishmans want the Transvaal ? " — Native
Animus against British Rule — Van Renan's Pass — Dore's Illustrations
of the Inferno — The Passage Begun — Klipping — Crawling on — Narrow
Escapes— Very Cold— The Summit is Passed— Hurrah ! . . .102

CHAPTER XII.

EN ROUTE FOR THE TRANSVAAL.

Rest after the Passage — " We twa hae paidl't in the Burn" — Independent
of the Boers, if need be — Red- water — No Cure — How the Mystery might
be Solved — An Extraordinary Finch — What a Tail! — An Expensive
Toll — Bob and the Pig— Harriemith — The Barrack-masters of Old —

x CONTENTS.

PAGE

The " Boughs " of South Africa — A Law-abiding Population — Are the
Boers Temperate ? — A Dutch Beauty — Baboons on our Way — The
Sentinel Mount — Memories of the Past — Three Splendid Mountains —
Capped by Castle, Crown, and Mitre — Our Cook — His one Great Failing
— Advice to Bachelors — How to enjoy a Meal on the Sly — The Kaffir
Crane — Fevers — Our Driver's Task — The Boer's Love of Wife and
Children— Habits of the Boer 118

CHAPTER XIII.

AMONG THE BOERS.

New Year's Day — First Signs of Game — The Spring-buck — Crossing a Spruit
— Eather too much Hospitality — An Invitation to a Wedding — William
Elevated — His JRepertoire — The Scene of Rejoicing — William Sober but
Sad — A Vain Attempt to Sleep — Morris in like Predicament — Suffering
from Gnats— Reflections under the Attack — My Cattle in Pound —
Released . 133

CHAPTER XIV.

GAME, GAME, NOTHING BUT GAME.

The Dutchman of South Africa — His 'Cuteness— How he Works the Oracle
— My Soreness at being " Done " — We start after Game — My Gillie
— A Persistent Dog — Elaborate Preparations to Discover Buck — Mag-
nificent Sight — The Dog Spoils everything — Is Slaughtered, but by
Accident — Morris again Indisposed — Pony Attacked by a Snake — The
Puff-adder — About Snakes — A Splendid Chase — Bob comes to Grief
and Bonte doesn't Bag his Quarry — " Murderous " Sport — The Butchers
at Work — Coran — Mending and Tailoring — The Sewing Machine a
Doubtful Blessing — The Birds of South Africa — Morris to be looked after 142

CHAPTER XV.

PAT MOLLOY— MORRIS BROKEN DOWN.

Hendrick's Splendid Shot — An Amusing Chase — Unearthing a Ratel — Search
for " Vater " — A Comical but Inhospitable Old Woman — " Is it Water
ye mane ? " — A Drop of the Crathur — My Talk with Pat — " A Great
Day for Ireland intirely " — Mrs. Molly — Our Dissel-boom comes to
Grief — Boers " Flitting " — The Head of the Procession — Ostriches not
such Fools as they Look — Ostriches on the Offensive — How to Capture
them — The Vaal River — Making a Dissel-boom — In the Transvaal at
Last— Charon — A Dear Bottle of Brandy — Getting the Cattle over the
River — Poonah and his Little Tricks — Morris's Dislike to him — Pots-
chefstrom — Imp absquatulates — A Queer Set of Physicians — Morris has
to Return Home for his Health— Farewell — Alone . . .154

CONTENTS. xi

CHARTER XYI.

FRIENDS IN NEED.

PAGE

A Lazy Driver — Reminiscences of Holly — Suspicions of Underhand Conduct
— Crossing a River — At Klerksdorp — My Novel-reading Servant Bolts
— Kind Friends— Half a Day's Shooting — Two Hyaenas done for — A
Driver is Lent to me — The Boers at Klerksdorp — The Brothers Rous —
Immense Foolishness of the English — Mr. Rous on Nile Explorations —
Superstitions of the Boer — A Witch called in — The Prettiest Village in
South Africa — Abundance of Fruit — Well-conditioned Porkers — A Look
Bound — Fruit not to be had for Love or Money — A Good-looking Woman
— Irritating Inhospitality — A Present of Fruit — A Eeturn Gift of
Sweets — " Jim a Good Boy " — Jim Decamps — The other Boys assert
their Innocence — Deserted by all my Attendants save one — My Lecture
to Umganey — A Lady Visitor — I decline to pursue Jim . . . 170

CHAPTER XYII.

ABOUT THE TRANSVAAL — SOME NATIVE TRIBES.

Hints to those about to Emigrate to the Transvaal — The True Source of its
Wealth — The Crops that can best Grow there — Difficulty of Obtaining
Labour — Natives and Boers — The Macalacas — Shots on the Road —
Beltong — Tame Spring-bucks — Mrs. Leask's Pet — Tame Cranes — Their
Odd Ways — Biassed Judges — My Present Driver — How he does his
Work— My Personal Interest in the Cattle— Wisdom of Oxen— Wilde-
beest— The Prey of the Martini-Henry — Ant-hills — The Dogs on the
qui vive — A Cobra di Capello — It Escapes 184

CHAPTER XYIII.

AN OBJECTIONABLE HOST— TRAVELLING COMPANIONS.

Eough-and-ready Entertainment — The Pests of the Stock-farmer — A
Sheriff in Pursuit — A Character Fond of Brandy and Snuff — Uninviting
Premises — A Sunday Dinner — Dirty Habits — My Host imperturbable
— Bequest for more Drink — A Fair Exchange — A Mongrel — Another
Useless Cur — Macguire — Bitten by a Snake — Cured — Worried by the
other Dogs — Two Travelling Boers — Description — A Cross-examination ,
Repository of Secrets — A Chance of Marriage — My Captain's Biscuits
become Inhabited — Beware of Microscopical Examinations — Bee-eater
— Supposed New Species — Cow and her Calf 'against Three Hyeenas — The
Cowardly Assailants Knocked over — Aard-wolf — A Solomon — An Offer
to Barter — A Strange Fence — My Companions Depart — I Arrive at
Jacobsdal — Commotion among the Population — A Canny Scot — My
Host and his Family — I reach Zeerust — Mr. Niccoti Winkle . . 194

xii CONTENTS,

CHAPTER. XIX.

A BRIEF SOJOURN AMONG BOERS.

PAGE

Jacob's Engagement at an End — My Late Driver " Sprung " — Sale of my
Oxen — I procure some Pets — Assumed Indignation at Kama — Boers'
Cruelty in the Hunt — Abuse of Kama's Permission — A Visit to Moiloes
— Its Chief or King — Prosperity — Mr. Jansen, the Missionary — His
Untiring Zeal — The British Subjects at Zeerust — Their Boer Wives —
The Gothic Episcopalian Church — Associations of the Village Church —
A Hunter's Wagon — Trying to Dissuade me — Jealousy of the Boers —
Its Cause — An Attempt at Extortion — It Fails — Adieu to Zeerust . .210

CHAPTER XX.

PIG-STICKING IN SOUTH AFRICA.

More Natives under my Wing — My New Driver — His Likes and his Dislikes
— Another one Wanted — " Count " or " Uncle " — A Pair of Black Oxen
Purchased — The Men in Possession — Humiliating Return — Scrimmage
with a Dirty Boer — Sheriff to the Rescue — Verdict in my Favour — South
African Scenery — Umganey in Gorgeous Array — Immense Effect upon
his Friends — Is the Man Mad, or does he mean Suicide ? — Umganey's
Explanation makes Darkness Visible — Game, that's it — Pigs ! — Fetch
my Spear — Attendant and Self off for the Chase — I cannot get near the
Quarry — The Quarry gets near the Macalaca In fact, throws him —
"Revenge ! " I cry — Pig Receives One Prod and I receive One Ceup —
Ingenuity of the Macalaca — Pork not so Scarce as it was an Hour ago
— Chase after Jackal — Silver Jackal — The Voice of the Jackal — Queer
Ant-heaps — Umganey Explains their Chimney- shaped Funnels — In a
Strange Land — Another Addition to my Museum 219

CHAPTER XXI.

NEARING THE LION COUNTRY.

The Driver and I come to an Understanding — An Addition to the Larder
— A Hospitable Englishman — A Fight between Two of my Native
Attendants — Their Mode of Battle — Some more Pugnacious Boers — I
shall have no Nonsense this time — The Affair satisfactorily ended — The
Habit of Shaking Hands — Another Hospitable Englishman — Exchange
of Presents — I meet some Traders — A Hunt Proposed — Hartebeest
Brought Down — A Herd of Quagga — I Shoot One — The Last Farm — In
a Ditch — Rescued — Mr. Froud — Mr. Fayune— The Leader of the Anti-
English Party — In the Transvaal— Stewed Quagga — Curious Habit at
Dinner — A Shooting Contest — My Victory — Marking off a Farm —
Koodoo — Nightly Preparations against Lions — The Kaminyani — Their
Projected Hostilities against King Sechelle — I lose my Way — Come
across a Trader — My Wagon turns up all right — A Pauw . . . 232

CONTENTS. xiii

CHAPTER XXII.

" LIONS ! "

PAGE

Travelling Habits of the Lion — His Haunting the Vicinity of Water— Con-
duct by Night and by Day — A Wearisome Treck — The Lion in the
Matabele Country — The Skulking Hyaenas — Wounds of the Natives —
Livingstone on the South African Lion — The Bakatlas and the Lion —
A Lion's Revenge — Livingstone Attacked — The Lion's shaking of his
Prey — The Macalaca and his Musket — Our Bay Horse — Lions Expected
— Precautions against Assault or Plunder — How Children are often Lost
— The Notawaney — A Frightful Incline — " Lion ! " — An Uncomfortable
Night — The Scene of the Lions' Depredation — Horse Dead — Our People
descend from their Trees — Collecting our Cattle — Bullock shot Dead in
mistake for a Lion — Bravado — Tracing the Spoor — Come upon a
Lioness — Killed on the Spot 246

OHAPTEE XXIII.
ON GORDON CUMMING'S GROUND.

English Park -like Scenery — My Companion does the Shooting — We meet a
Boer Family — A Picnic on the Limpopo — The Gentle Art — Our Captures
—The BeUe of the Party— A Walk by the River-side— A Shriek— The
Lion wounded to the Death — How the Lion was disturbed — Boer Women
have no Fear of Wild Beasts — The Drinking- place of the Animals — The
Mapaney Bush — The Boomslang Tree — Gordon Gumming' s Driver — A
Memorable Tree — The Limpopo River — The Animals that are found
here — How I lost a Dog — A Fine Night — My Pony Restless — I replenish
the Fires— A Yell and a Shot— The Dog brained— The Panther's Prey
— A Good Shot — Bringing down Hartebeest — The Basuto Pony Sick —
The Symptoms of his Disease — On the Spoor of the Giraffe — Honey-
bird — Curious Superstition — Bagging my Second Pauw — The Black
Bullock Dead — Swindled — Poor Pony Worse — His Intense Sufferings —
Death puts an End to his Agony — The Secretary Bird — A Fight be-
tween One and a Snake — Origin of their Name — A Peculiar Insect —
A Gathering of Boers — Welcomed — Eeligious Service — Impressive Scene 259

CHAPTER XXIV.

AMONG THE DOPPERS.

Their Dress and Habits — Slavery — Opposed to the Missionaries — Their
probable Errand — Hated by the Blacks — Conservative — Bad Farmers
in a splendid Land — The Patriarch— A Morning Visit — Our Conver-
sation— Suspicions of my Object in Travelling — Why not be a Dopper ? —
Offer to provide a Frow for me — The Bible — Primitive Notions about
the Sun — Cornered — A High-priced Horse — Crocodile- shooting — An
.Elephant-hunt— My Noble, Steed — The poor Brute's Wounds and Sores—

xiv CONTENTS.

PAGE

Wakes up at the Sound of War — The Chase begun — We come upon the
Enemy — Charge — I bring down one Cow — And help a Hunter to bring
down another Cow — Cruelty of killing Cow-elephants — Baked Ele-
phant's Foot — I leave the Doppers — Can Man quit the Civilised World ?
—A Fit of the Blues— On the March again . . . . .275

CHAPTER XXV.

KAMA, KING OF THE BECHUANAS.

Sand, Sand, Sand!— A Howling Waste— My poor Cattle suffer— A Wretched
Family of Bushmen — Novel Mode of obtaining Water — Fearful Con-
dition of the Bush-people — Their Skill and Courage in Hunting — Wild
Dogs — Magnificent Animals — How they Hunt — Attack the Lion some-
times— One of my Cattle Missing — Insolence of my Driver — A Bandy-
legged Eunner — Fruitless Chase — My Driver returns — A Salt-pan —
Curious Effect by Moonlight — The Kerne, or Wild Water-melon —
Scavenger Beetle — The Macalaca kills something at last — The Capital
of Bamanwatto in the Distance — We reach Soshong — The Inhabitants
— Welcomed — My poor Cattle — Stuck in a dry Eiver-bed — Soshong —
The Kloof Community — Huts — Compassed — A Favourite Post of
Observation— The " Ladies " — Eiding — Oxen — Their Load — The Mis-
sionaries' Houses — The European Community — Defence of the Spring
— The High-roads of Commerce — The Merchants — Suburb of Soshong
— Population — King Kama — Sketch of his Career — Bechuana Law of
Succession — A Eomance . . . 288

CHAPTER XXYI.

WITH THE MISSIONARIES AT SOSHONG.

A Standing Invitation — A Delightful Evening — A Life of True Eeligion —
Mr. Mackenzie — Mr. Hepburn — Invited to Outspan at Mr. Mackenzie's
— My Host's Little Girl — Introduced to King Kama — His Personal
Appearance and Manners — Permits me to Hunt— Sunday in Soshong —
Worship — An Impressive Day — The Life of a Missionary — How the
Bechuanas meet with Accident — An Amusing Experience on Mr. Hep-
burn's part — Inquiring for Water, he finds a Lion and Lioness (asleep)
— Hunters boxed up in a Kraal— On the Look-out for the Imprisoning
Lion — Putting an End to his Existence — Sneers of Stay-at-home Sports-
men— A Vindication of Gordon Gumming — Among the Traders at

Soshong — Charlie , a Character — An Unknown arrives — Personal

Appearance of the Mysterious Individual — Charlie tells a Story in his
best Style — But is interrupted by a regular " Bom-bom " — The " Bom-
bom "-Ejaculator's Nose is pulled — The Outrage stopped — Explanation
of the Strange Conduct — Charlie abstracts Eoast Ducks — Found in the
" Bom-bom " — Charlie abruptly disappears 302

CONTENTS. xv

CHAPTER XXVII.

I LEAVE SOSHONG.

PAGE

The Cattle at Soshong— Lake Bullock— Galloway-like Ox — Kaffir Ox —
Mashoona Ox — How many of the Cattle lose their Tails — Kama's
Horses— Queer Sheep — How they Fight — Five Strange Children — My
Mare Euby — Fowl — My Goat becomes Food for a Hyaena — My Monkey
returns to his Mates — My Mashoona and Macalaca People leave me — A
Word for the Macalacas — My Departure from Soshong — Dilly-dallying
of the Blacks — Kama's Cattle Kraals — Mapaney Tree — Bad Luck —
Stuck in a Eiver-bed — One of my Dogs Bolts — Birds charmed by a '
Snake — End of the Enchantment— Seruley Vley — I fall in with a
German — We dine together — Bullocks Stampede — The German loses a
Saulted Horse — A Eest— A Glimpse at a Leopard— Greet and I part . 316

CHAPTER XXYIII.

SURROUNDED BY DISAFFECTED SERVANTS.

Treachery of my Attendants — I am a Fat Cow — Never lose your Temper to
a Kaffir— A Charming Spot — How an Irishman made a Fortune in the
Kalahari— Difficulty of Hunting in the Lands of Kama and Sechelle —
Beware of Fraudulent Devices to take you to good Hunting-ground —
Visited by Bush-people — Improvidence in the Matter of Drinking-water
— When to Value Water — Our aqua pura ! — An Improvised Filter —
Plenty of Snakes — Local Belief about Female Snakes .... 329

CHAPTER XXIX.

ADVENTURE WITH A LEOPARD.

Washing, Mending, &c. — An Expected Eow — Outspanned in a Nasty Place
— The Attendants crowd to my Fire — Ordered to Light their own Fires —
Eebellious Spirits — The Scoundrels leave me en masse — A Tedious Night
— A Visit to my Cattle — Splendid Sunrises — Massaras Tracking — In
Presence of Game — Zebra wounded — A Charge — Cruel Work — Out for
a Eun — A Leopard Hit — Attacked by the Dogs — Macguire comes to
Grief— The Beast bites the Dust— Buffaloes and Leopards— Varieties of
the African Leopard— Arguments in Support of my Theory — Meruley-
tree— A Black Mamba 336

CHAPTER XXX.

HUNTING AFTER BIG GAME.

Mashoona Eice — Elephants — A Holiday Upset — Euby willing — Hints about
Treatment of Horses — Charge of Buffaloes — Fate of the Bush-people —
Danger of Buffaloes — A Tusker brought to Grief — A Pugnacious Ele-
phant— Seemingly he won't Die — Killed at Last — The Guide's Success
— He Shoots a Ehinoceros — Charged by the Brute — A Heavy Kick and

xvi CONTENTS.

PAGE

Shot — Bullock used as a Charger — Experiments to ride him — Another
Shot at Buffaloes — A Match for the Lion — Running down an Eland —
How it is Done — Damoiselle Cranes — Massara Bushmen — Our Line of
March — Man with Three Wives — The Youngest Wife — Her Speed —
Her Favourite Delicacy — Her Visits — Bush-people's Appreciation of
Snuff — An Excellent Vegetable — The Probable Fate of the Massaras—
My Levee of Sick Natives — How I manage to prescribe for them . . 348

CHAPTER XXXI.

LAID UP IN THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

A Strange Spot — A Picturesque Camp — Namaqua Partridge — A Visit from
the Bush-people — Dog seized by Leopard — A Prickly Screen for Safety
— Massara's Feeding-powers — Giving Ruby a Run — A Miss-shot —
Koodoo — Stealing upon Giraffes — One brought low — After a Cow and
her Little One — Ready for the Shot — Thrown — Gradually recover Con-
sciousness— Used up — The Bushmen Find me — Lost — Brought back to
Camp — The Guide Hunts for me — His Success ' 361

CHAPTER XXXII.

ON THE RETURN JOURNEY.

Hunted by a Wounded Tusker — He Misses his Mark — Never will chase Man
more — Good-bye to the Massaras — Souvenirs — My Gift to the Beauty —
Treck, Treck, Treck ! — Water-pits — Where has the Water gone ? —
Digging for the Precious Liquid — Quenching Thirst — A Baobab-tree —
Meruley Fruit — Disaffection among my Servants — My Attendants have
Fled ! — Reviving the Fires — Stung by a Scorpion — My Attendants'
Festivities — Disturbing the Merry-makers — Ordered to Return to my
Camp — Foreloper Refuses — Coppies — Black Rhinoceros — Shot Dead —
Klep Springers — My Saddle in Sad State — Little Grey Monkeys —
Beautiful Koodoo 370

CHAPTER XXXIII.

OUR SUFFERINGS IN THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

Learning to Labour and to Wait — Utter Loneliness — Foreloper's Insolence —
Doubts about Umganey — Looking for my Oxen — Trecking by Night —
Camp attacked by Rhinoceros— Covered by a Blanket — A very cool
Morning — A beautiful Spot — My Cattle unattended to — I fell the Driver
and Foreloper — Foreloping in Sand — No Water to be had — Cattle mad-
dened at the Smell of my small Private Supply — Ackerman ungovernable
— He knocks me to the Ground — Umganey HI — Poor Bob Wounded —
Poor Forty's Hind-legs Broken — Dire Extremities — Water ! Water ! —
Saved — A Toung Boer Traveller — His Misfortunes — His Saulted Horse
slain by a Lion — Porty not Dead — Drinking-places — Wild Animals

CONTENTS. xvii

PAGE

Quenching their Thirst — Elephant and Ehinoceros at the Water — Lion's
Voice — Joined by Macalacas and Mashoonas — Bonty's Head cut open
by some wild Beast 383

CHAPTER XXXIY.

THE LION OF THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

No Water — Ruby's Faintness — Her Splendid Behaviour — Meeting with a
Lion — His Lordship turns tail — We come upon Water — Meet with
English Traders outspanned — A Pleasant Time — Dine with one another —
My Wagon and theirs — Excellent Feed — A Lion within easy reach of me
— Prefer not to be snapped up — Bayed at by Curtin's Dog — Oxen pre-
pared against Attack — Strange Mashoona Custom — We Part — About
the Baobab — The species of Lions — Black-maned — Yellow-maned —
Their Characters — Maneless — The Lion of the Great Thirst Land-
North and South Africa . .398

CHAPTER XXXY.

A THUNDERSTORM IN THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

Ruby's first and only Disobedience — Having a Good Time — A Eare Chase —
On the Koad again — A Storm brewing — Lightning — A Halt — Is the
Wagon safe ? — A Suggestion that clears the Wagon in the twinkling of
an Eye — The Storm subsides — The Face of Nature next Morning — I ride
on to Soshong — The Silver-tree — A Migration of Reptiles — Bonty over-
takes me — Near Kama's Cattle — Kraals — TJgly Natives — Can't get
Information as to my Way — Suspicious People — Must I sleep out ? — Mr.
Mackenzie's " Herd " . 411

CHAPTER XXXYI.

I LEAVE SOSHONG AND KAMA.

My Wagon reaches Soshong — The poor Oxen glad to see me — Religious Ser-
vice at Mr. Mackenzie's — Thoughts suggested by it — The Pastor

The Worshippers — My Team broken up and sold off — Among the
Traders of Soshong — Geordie — An Illicit Still — Consequences of trying
to set up a sly Grog Shop — A great Authority in Literature and
Science — King Kama bids me Farewell — A favourite Haunt of Lions
— A mighty Hunter — Mr. Finnety — Some of his Exploits — Seven Lions
slain in twenty-four hours — Artfulness of Lions — Sense of Smell
versus Sense of Sight — How the Lions bag their Victims — Lion not to
be feared by Day — Are they Dangerous? — The Leopard's Charge. . 421

xviii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXXYH.

A VISIT TO KING SECHELLE.

PAGE

A Wildebeest Hunt— Sultry Weather— My Spoorer— The Game in Sight-
Blown — Bring down a Cow — The Wounded Animal Charges my Atten-
dant— Assegaied — A clean Miss — The Wildebeest gone for good — Spoor
of Giraffe and Quagga — "Kiloe" and "Petsi" — A Shot at Zebra —
Success — A Look at my Cattle — My new Ox jumped by a Leopard —
Bolts with its Assailant — I Pursue to no Purpose — Certain Fate of the
poor Brute — Lost — Spend the Night " out " — Light a Fire — Stung —
Attacked by Red Ants — A Miserable Night — I Find my Wagon — Crowds
of Partridges and Turtle-doves — Cruelty to Bouffle — His Wretched End
— The Lion-bird — Aw awe — King Sechelle's Cattle — A Magnificent
Roan — Mr. Williams, the Missionary — King Sechelle — His great Grief
— Defeat of his Troops — His Queen — Sechelle's Town — A hospitable
Englishman 433

CHAPTER XXXYIII.

EXPERIENCES AT THE DIGGINGS.

A Copper Hill — Refreshing Dip — Poetry not in my line — Guinea-Fowls in-
numerable— Shooting a Leopard — Applauded by Monkeys — Ruined
Huts — Gifts that didn't Pay — At Moiloes again — Clear of The Great
Thirst Land — At Zeerust again — Mr. Wisbeach's Kindness — At Klerks-
dorp again — Parting with Umganey — Faithful to the End — Attacked by
a Deserter — Arrival at Kimberly — Jarvey No. 1 won't take his fare —
Jarvey No. 2 does — The Cabman an old Friend — High Class of Emigrants
— Splendid Material for a Cavalry Regiment — Mr. Balfour — Curious Co-
incidence— Mr. Balfour's Letter — Documentary Evidence touching the
deaths of the Basuto Pony and an Ox 444

.CHAPTER XXXIX.

THE DIAMOND-FIELDS— HOMEWARD BOUND.

A fierce Sun — The Diggers — Their Homes — The Pans — The Machinery —
The Labourers — How they will work for the Musket. Great-coat, and
Blanket — Distance from their Home — Effects of the Diamond-fields —
Kimberly — The Buying and Selling of Diamonds — I leave Dutoitspan —
The Coach — Drivers — German and English Jews — Their Resolution
touching Liquor — How they keep it — Other Passengers — Unamiable
Englishman — Affable Wife — One-legged Boer — Blessed Baby — Hints to
Travellers about Babies — Handsomest Girl in the District — Orange
River — In Old Colony again — Boers and Kaffirs — Splendid Qualities of
the Latter— On board Ship— Holly again— The last of " The Red, White,
and Blue" — The Ship's Company — The Honourable Member for
Matabele— Finis . . 456

24-

28

2<>

Longitude 28 East .if Greenwich.

77 z> p /* z_
MonaoTv; CofseLL, fetter a; (jaJtpm/.

THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

CHAPTER I.

AN INVITATION TO TRAVEL.

Herefordshire— The Term " Hunting "—A Visit to the West— An Invitation—
My Friend Morris — Sport in the Highlands — The Battery — Buying Guns —
Our Armament — Beads and Gewgaws — Particulars of our Personal Outfit.

HEREFORDSHIRE must be acknowledged by all who
know it to be one of the prettiest counties in England,
and if a choice could be made as to which part has a
right to be considered the most attractive, I have little
doubt that all sportsmen would join me in the verdict
that the country north of the Malvern Hills is the most
charming. And why ? Because if it were unsettled,
uninhabited, unimproved, it would make the most
magnificent hunting-ground — if I except the Bijou
Hills, in Nebraska — in the whole world. But when I
say "hunting/' that term has so many significations
that it behoves me to become explicit. In America you
" go hunting " when you take your gun to procure a few
partridges, or squirrels, or wild fowl ; in England the
term is applied only to the pursuit of the fox or hare,
accompanied by hounds, with the sportsmen mounted.
Now it is neither in the American nor English sense
that I use the word, but to denote the killing of large
B

2 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

game with, the rifle — when stalking is necessary, when
the wind has to be consulted, when every stick, stone,
and bush has to be utilised ; and it is in these particulars
that the rolling, wooded slopes of Herefordshire are as
nearly perfect as it is possible to imagine. Again, a
circumstance not to be overlooked — for nought does
more, or has a more substantial bearing on the accumu-
lation of wild animals in their natural state — is that in
every valley an abundance of water — never mind how
long the parched and dry summer may have been — is to
be found. I have been thus wordy ; for it is necessary
that the reader of the subsequent pages should know
exactly the sense in which I use an expression that must
of necessity frequently occur ; so when I speak of lands
or districts favourable for sport, I should like it to be
distinctly understood what are the characteristics of the
places I deem so.

Almost three years ago, I returned from America,
whither I had gone to visit my old hunting-grounds,
to renew the scenes of my youth, and, in imagination
at least, perform my old exploits. Alas ! how altered,
how changed, had the great Western continent be-
come ! West, farther west, still farther west, I pushed
my way, but the game had gone to the spirit-land, with
the exception of a few patriarchal bull buffaloes, and
a stray antelope ; grizzly bears, where they had once
been numerous, had entirely disappeared, and the weird
voice of the wolf was unknown where for centuries
every rock and cranny had nightly echoed their
responding notes. To the lover of field-sports such
alterations are sad indeed ; so, wearily and sick at heart,
I retraced my way to the land of my childhood.

Thus, a little over two years ago, I was to be found

A LETTER OF INVITATION. 3

in Herefordshire, wondering how I could kill time, de-
bating whether to take my rod and try the lovely little
Mathon brook, or saunter up some of the hill-sides, and
watch the antics of the playful rabbits, when the always-
looked-for event of the day — the arrival of the letter-
bag — took place. " Old man," said my host, " here is
a letter for you." I took it, looked at the address, and
knew not the writing. The Scotch postmark puzzled
me still more. The contents were surprising, terse, and
to the point. " Will you accompany me on a hunting-
trip to Tropical South Africa for a year or two ? " That
night the mail took my answer, in which I asked for
an interview. A week after, my future companion
and self could have been found closeted in a most snug
apartment — half bed, half sitting room — the window,
gently touched by the spray-like limbs of a graceful
birch-tree, while on the table stood a decanter of Amon-
tillado sherry, surrounded by cigars, or their remains.

I do not wish to add one word of fiction, but during
nearly that entire night — and we did not retire to our
dormitories till long after the sun had risen from his
eastern couch — a nightingale warbled from the adjacent
bushes.

My new friend — afterwards my tried companion — I
will call Morris, and a description of him may not be
inappropriate. He was the same height as myself—
six feet — but slighter in build, his weight being twelve
stone three, mine being just under thirteen — upright,
well-made, very quiet, gentlemanly, and unassuming.
Although under thirty, he had travelled all over the
world, hunted in the Eocky Mountains, killed large
game in India and the Malay Archipelago, and bagged
wild fowl, pheasants, and snipe in China and Japan.
B 2

4 THE GEE AT THIRST LAND..

That evening is one of those marked with red letters
in the calendar of my memory. We had both been in
the same countries, done the same things, and even met
in many instances the same people. No wonder, then,
that time flew on rapid wings, or that the sun surprised
us in our gossip.

Next morning he departed as rapidly as he made
his advent, leaving me authority to make all arrange-
ments for the proposed expedition, which I probably
was more capable of undertaking, as my residence was
within a short distance of Birmingham, the great manu-
facturing centre of nearly all we should want for our
journey.

A couple of months after our first interview Morris
and I might have been seen fagging after grouse in
Argyleshire, or fly-fishing some of the innumerable lakes
of the great Breadalbane deer-forest.

This meeting gave me a good opportunity of
learning that my future comrade was a sportsman of
the very first water, and gifted with a great amount of
those qualities — patience, perseverance, and endurance —
that he who wanders in foreign lands so eminently
requires.

After two or three most enjoyable weeks, we parted,
not to meet till a day or two previous to sailing, our
departure being fixed for an early date in October.

On such an expedition as I am about to do my best
to describe, few persons will deny that the battery
deserves special notice. To do good work requires good
tools, and when your life may depend upon their per-
formance, it behoves a man to be doubly careful. Of
course, there are plenty of good gun-makers whose at-
tention to what they undertake can be thoroughly relied

A SERVICEABLE GUN. 5

upon ; but they invariably — and most notably those in
the metropolis — charge such exorbitant prices that a
large armament is beyond the means of all who have
not a heavy banking account. Thus, a few years ago, I
wanted a strong, serviceable double-gun. A friend
advised me to try a Birmingham firm ; I did so, and
received in consequence one of the most perfect weapons
ever manufactured. On the Chesapeake I shot canvas-
back duck with it ; if held straight, no bird could escape
under sixty yards, and very few indeed under eighty.
In fact, it was as good a shot-gun as I ever had to my
shoulder; and what do you think I paid for it ? Thirteen
pounds sterling. Many will say that it was a rattle-
trap thing, without finish. Nothing of the sort — it was
quite the reverse, and, with the exception of the en-
graving on the lock-plates, was as perfect as anything
originating from St. James's Street. Day after day, on
the Susquehanna, I used this gun. Mr. Ballard, Mr.
Frick, and a dozen other gentlemen of Baltimore, saw
its execution, and marvelled at it. So now, when I am
going to Africa, to meet the lion, the black rhinoceros,
the leopard, and last, though not least, the lordly
elephant, is it to be wondered at that I should return to
the suppliers of this gun for the slaughter of canvas-
backs to provide me with what I required to kill the
graceful spring-buck, the awkward giraffe, or the portly
eland ? Well, I did so ; my wants were stated, and
my ideas listened to.

As many may wish to do as I have done, it being
requisite for them to be careful in regard to the sums
paid for the necessaries of their outfit, the hint I have
given above will be useful.

Well, I saw a partner of the Birmingham house,

6 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

who, from his acquaintance with business in all parts
of the world, soon understood my requirements. The
only difference of opinion we had was that he wished
me to have large-bore rifles instead of large smooth-
bores. However, like a wilful man, I had my way.

My order was, four ten-bore double-guns to shoot
ball, two eight-bore double-guns also to shoot ball, four
Martini-Henry carbines. And, at the partner's request,
an eleventh gun was added to what, I am certain,
the reader will consider already a most formidable
armament. This addition was a single-barrel four-
bore rifle — in fact, shooting a quarter-of-a-pound
bullet ; it happened to be in stock at the time, being
one of a number made by the firm for the cele-
brated traveller and great elephant-hunter, Petherick,
of White Nile reputation. With the exception of the
last, each gun I saw built, shot, proved, &c. &c. ; and,
although it cost me many trips to Birmingham, I was
amply paid for the trouble by the results.

Through the same firm, I ordered twenty thousand
rounds of ball-ammunition, one hundred pounds of gun-
powder, five hundred pounds of pig-lead, and five hundred
pounds of shot. Of course, even if our trip lasted the
contemplated two years, we did not expect to fire such a
quantity of cartridges away ; but for trading, purchasing
food, &c. &c., gunpowder and lead are more attractive
to the aborigines than any other article you can offer
them. Beads and such gewgaws are now played out
among the natives of South Africa — the most gaudy and
fascinating colours scarcely evoke an expression of their
admiration ; so that those who stock themselves with
these heavy and cumbrous articles, believing that they
can buy ivory, ostrich feathers, &c., with them, will

OUR TRAVELLING ATTIRE. 7

find, very much to their disgust, that they are wrong,
and possibly at so late a date that it is impossible to
correct the error.

Waterproofs, saddlery, &c , constituted the remainder
of the load, and load it really was, for when the various
traps arrived at Messrs. Donald Currie and Co.'s, they
weighed upwards of four tons and a half, or something
over nine thousand pounds ; and I must here return
thanks to that generous firm for the care with which
everything was stowed, and their liberality in not
charging me extra freight. However, before I leave
the subject of our outfit, I must not fail to mention the
description and cut of the garments we intended doing
our work in. These were straight, single-breasted
tight-fitting short jackets, with two good-sized pockets
on either side, each pocket protected by a large flap.
Our unmentionables were ordinary pantaloons, as the
most of our sport would be pursued on horseback. These
clothes were made of moleskin of the best description
attainable, and in my belief it is the only material
adapted to the purpose. The formidable nature of
African thorns is such, that in a few hours' riding they
totally destroyed a pair of the strongest woollen cords,
every rib seeming to become a holding- ground admirably
suited for bringing you to an anchor; with moleskin
this is not likely to happen, but even with these
much-resisting raiments you will be surprised how
soon they will begin to get seedy -looking and frayed.
For head-dress, a strong leather helmet with peak
before and behind. Of course, they should be as light
as they can possibly be obtained. Solar topees are
an abomination, always in the way, never fitting cor-
rectly, and when saturated with a chance shower, shrink,

8 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

or increase, or do both, and become as crumpled as the
cow's horn famed in nursery rhyme.

Once for all — for African hunting every part of
your outfit must be of the most durable description,
for there is no country that will more try materials, as
well as men.

CHAPTEE II.

FROM LONDON DOCKS TO DARTMOUTH.

Berths booked — Scenes at Parting — Bustle at the Docks— Brusque John Bull
and polite Frenchman — Our Vessel — British and French Sailors — Good-
byes at Gravesend — Down Channel — Dutch Galliots — French Luggers —
Johnny Crapaud — A Fruiterer — Opposition Sailing on the Mississippi
— Beauty of Dartmouth.

THE two days which. Morris and I passed in London
together soon flew away ; and no wonder, for we
appeared not to know what a moment's rest was.
There are so many little things absolutely necessary
to comfort, that are so unpretending or trifling appa-
rently, that you are safe not to think of them till the
last moment, if you do not forget them altogether.

At length all was settled, passages taken, and the
time — noon on a Thursday — fixed for our ship sailing.
As the kind-hearted owner, Mr. Donald Currie, had
promised to see that good berths were detailed
for us, and as we had a receipt from the purser,
proving that all our things had been safely stowed
on board, we deferred our embarkation till 11 a.m. ;
for the bustle and confusion on a large passenger-
steamship, where wife is bidding a tearful adieu to
husband, mother to son — her darling possibly going
forth to fight the battle of life — are trying scenes to
witness unmoved. How many journeys have I made,
how many thousand miles of ocean have I traversed,

10 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

yet I do not behold without a feeling of pain these
leave-takings; possibly because I know too well that
in many, many instances the anticipated return, the
long to be looked forward to reunion, will never be
realised ! All Londoners at least know the Docks ;
dwellers in the West End would not select the neigh-
bourhood for its attractiveness ; and even those whose
business it is to follow a sailor's life cannot see much
to admire in those giant basins, though they speak
of the enterprise, commerce, and wealth of the nation.
They are to London what the cotton-mills are to
Lancashire, or the blast-furnaces to the Black Country.
Well, what between coaling and taking on board
cargo, squabbling cabmen and impudent porters, steve-
dores and their labour-stained gangs, interspersed with a
due mixture of sailors, stewards, &c., I should advise the
traveller, not to risk missing his passage, but remain
at his hotel as long as compatible with certainty
of avoiding such a catastrophe. Now, to add to
all the above enumerated disagreeables, the day we
embarked it rained in torrents, and ceaselessly; every
one appeared to be in search of the driest corner,
and, if unsuccessful in efforts to obtain it, stared
with undisguised dislike at the more fortunate rival.
It is not on occasions of this kind that man shows
the better points of his character, and of all other
nationalities the Englishman then exhibits to the greatest
disadvantage. There is a rough brusqueness that very
frequently manifests itself on such an occasion as an
embarkation, thoroughly characteristic of John Bull,
and not at all likely to dispose those who do not know
him, to love him. Now, while the worthy Briton is
growling, and frequently using stronger language than

LEAVING THE DOCKS. 11

polite, a Frenchman would approach and ask a light
with a dozen pardonnez's, or tender you a cigarette.
The course pursued by the citizen of la belle France
is, in my j udgment , to be preferred. Why is it, then,
that a certain portion of our community will not try
and combine courtesy with independence ? It could
easily be done, and without trouble, as far as I can see.
Before the ship commenced to haul out, a more
miserable hour could not have been spent ; and, worse
than all, wherever you deposited your now drenched
and thoroughly uncomfortable body, you, without the
slightest intention, got in somebody's way. My friend
bore it stoically, but I fear my early military educa-
tion just gave sufficient irritability to evince that there
is a margin over which it would not be safe to go.
At length innumerable bells began to ring; there
was a vibration throughout the ship's length; immense
hawsers, rivalling in thickness boa-constrictors, were
made fast to the donkey-engine, and the giant vessel
commenced to move on her long and possibly perilous
voyage. I say immense vessel, for although not equal
in size to the new crafts of the Cunard line, such as
the Bothnia or Abyssinia, still she was three hundred
and forty feet long, with capacity to stow upwards of
three thousand tons. It always has been a surprise
to me how such a gigantic, towering mass can be
warped out through a narrow dock-entrance with
such wondrous skill : the explanation is that every one
employed in the process knows his work, and does it,
and how little disturbance there is during the per-
formance ! Gro on board a French, vessel, and learn
the difference. There every man seems to have a
say in the matter; and how volubly do their tongues

12 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

go, and with what emphasis, shrugs, and gestures !
Yes, we understand these things better in England ;
our sailors are sailors, while our late allies are a
cross between the marine and a mountebank. At
last Gravesend is reached, where the adventurous
friends take their departure ; again the hugging,
shaking of hands, and kissing, are repeated ; the
bells again ring; a long line of humanity, like an army
of ants, passes down the gangway; the screw revolves,
and our head is soon pointed oceanwards — the first act
of a drama in three acts having commenced. The lady
passengers — yes, and many of the male ones too — seemed
to have resigned themselves to the anticipated attack of
sea-sickness, so sought their berths ; thus we were well
down Channel before the slightest conception could be
formed of the large living freight we had on board.
What a blessing it is not to suffer from mal de mer !
My friend, not being so accustomed to sea-life, felt
uncomfortable, and thus I did not tease him with
my conversation. If there is one thing I glory in, it is
a voyage down the Channel. Never for a moment are
you out of sight of subjects fit food for thought, and
speech too ; for our coast-line is wondrously pretty, and
there are few portions without an historic reputation.
Drake, Frobisher, and Ealeigh have sailed over the
very soundings through which we are now ploughing.
And what change and contrast have taken place through
the introduction of machinery for the propulsion of our
ships ! Which school made the best sailors I fear is a
subject none will dispute. In the distance looms up the
Wight; and what a fleet of vessels, large and small, seem
to find it difficult to get farther to the eastward! Truly,
varieties of rig and build can be seen in our waters.

SHIPPING IN THE CHANNEL. 13

The first we pass is a Dutch galliot, all resplendent
in brilliant-coloured paint. She looks more like a play-
thing than ought else. Yet there are few safer sea-
going vessels in the world. Some years ago, when
doubling the Cape of Good Hope in 42° south latitude,
when it was blowing so hard and fiercely as it knows so
well how to do on that inhospitable ocean, one of these
galliots, probably not over two hundred tons, was in our
company for two days. Although the vessel I was on
board of was a large transport, the little brilliantly
painted Dutchman to all appearance was making better
weather than ourselves. Their crews are, as a rule, most
able, hardy sailors, worthy descendants of him who first
mounted the birch-broom at the foremast -head. Next
in our course, and close by, is a French lugger, also
a weatherly craft, which has most probably seen many
a heavy blow about Ushant and the Channel Islands ;
but how different does her crew look ! That old man
with the weather-beaten face, dressed in scarlet shirt,
and his feet shod in sabots, must be the bond fide
Johnny Crapaud, and how he sucks at his pipe, from
long use burnt as black as coal ! How many pounds of
tobacco, could any one tell, has it taken to accomplish
this ? A youth, evidently learning some of the
mysteries of fishing-net manufacture, an untidy lad
at the tiller, and a very vociferous, unknown breed
of dog, apparently make up the entire crew.

But here comes a different type of craft. Forty
years ago, if sighted in the equatorial portion of the
Atlantic, she would have been suspected of carrying
ebony ; as it is now, she is only a harmless fruiterer from
the western islands. That she can sail, no one who
looks at her spread of canvas, clean run, and taut rig,

14 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

can doubt ; but I fear, if this easterly breeze hold, it will
be some time ere the good people of London have the
pleasure of eating her oranges.

Large as we are, we are slipping through the water
at a wonderful pace, yet so easily, so apparently with-
out exertion, that one marvels to himself how quickly
vessels are overtaken and left hull down by us. On the
port beam a smart, tidy, three-masted, schooner-rigged
steamship, pronounced by adepts to be of the Cork and
London line, expresses an evident intention to cross
our bows ; but she has calculated without her host, for
our craft has it all her own way, and the little one has
to give place and go astern. Many accidents occur,
many valuable lives are lost, and noble ships sunk by
such attempts as this ; though, after all, one must not
be too severe on our sailors. They may occasionally
make mistakes and cause danger ; but if you want a
specimen of the regular dare-devil type of reckless,
thorough disregard for their own and other people's
lives — if, in fact, you want a new sensation, and one
to be remembered — take a trip down the Mississippi
when trade is brisk and opposition companies have
boats upon the same route. On such occasions I have
known it a fact that the furnaces have been fed with
fat, and it was said that the safety-valve was tied down
with a crow-bar or a couple of niggers !

That night, our second after leaving London, there
was a slight attempt to get up a reunion by the main
hatch. Lighted pipes glowed around that part of the
deck, while thirsty souls at frequent intervals, and in
rather mysterious manner, stole down to the precincts
of the bar. A few days will alter all this ; passengers
will become sociable and drink together ; the rich will

BEAUTIFUL DARTMOUTH. 15

become generous; while those less well off will try
their luck at the intricate and highly interesting game,
" Tommy Dodd," and by it decide who is to be
victim.

Those who possess yachts, or who have large
revenues, know our coast so well that even to speak of
beautiful Dartmouth may not interest them ; but all are
not gifted with the sinews of war, and by far the largest
portion of our population have not seen, possibly cannot
imagine, the beauties of Devonshire and Cornwall. I
do not allude to the female beauties — and they are
wondrously brilliant and well-bred looking — but to the
counties themselves, which possess a wealth of foliage,
a brightness of vegetation, a greenness of hill-sides,
truly astounding. And then within their area what
snug little valleys — nooks without rivals for the pic-
turesque resting-places of cottages and villas — are to be
found ! Here is the land for the old storm-tossed
mariner, or the worn-out hero of a hundred battle-fields,
to repose. And how many sailors and soldiers know it,
and make it their retreat when cognisant that age is
hurrying them to their last parade ! The little country
churchyards of these charming counties too ominously
tell this tale. But why feel sad on the subject ? They
have but paid the debt all have to pay, and possibly
it is a consolation to know — more so, I suppose, to
relatives than those directly interested — that their last
moments will be passed in their own land, and their
last resting-place be under its verdant sward or fern-
covered turf.

At ten in the morning we steamed into Dartmouth
harbour ; I had heard of its charms, but all description
comes far short of reality. On its water was not a flaw

16 TEE GREAT THIRST LAND.

of wind, while many a snow-clad yacht floated on its
clear blue surface.

The old town, situated along the upper portion of
the bay, was quaintness itself — more foreign than
English — and recalled vividly my recollection of Naga-
saki, in Japan. But it was not with it the attraction
ceased, for such glorious rocks guarded the entrance to
the harbour, all honeycombed with the most fantastic
nooks and grottoes that human eye hath seldom rested
on, while the tendrils of numerous creeping plants
waved in festoons over them. Oh ! those lovely para-
sites ! fit ornaments are they for such a place ; for
assuredly, had Lurline and her nymphs chosen these
haunts for their home, they would have woven them
into wreaths to adorn their snow-white temples !

CHAPTEK III.

MY FELLOW-PASSENGERS.

Oar Cuisine — Reminiscences of Olden Days — Plum Duff — A Yarn — An old
Acquaintance — "The Plunger" — Mr. Holly — The Clergyman — A. Pilau a
la Chinoise — Mr. and Mrs. Crommy.

FROM Dartmouth to Madeira is act the second. During
the five days' run I may hope to get some little insight
into the characters of my compagnons de voyage.

With a smooth sea, gentle western wind, and
brilliant sun, we left the coast of England, all, without
dissenting voice, auguring, from such a successful start,
a prosperous passage. But what does it matter whether
it blows high or low, great guns or little ones, as long
as we have so fine a ship beneath us, free from deck-
hamper and such-like impedimenta too often placed on
board by illiberal and unscrupulous owners ? No ; she
is truly a splendid specimen of Clyde architecture, with
a crew and officers one can, without hesitation, feel con-
fidence in. The table has already given proof of its
excellence, and no abatement in this respect is antici-
pated by me, for I discover the chef de cuisine is an
acquaintance I knew in China to be master of his art,
and there are cows, sheep, and pigs on board in
abundance, and turkeys, geese, ducks, and fowls in-
numerable, for him to practise his skill upon. How
different is all this from twenty years ago, when the
c

18 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

old sailing-transports were in the habit of taking four
months to get to China, and the only port en route
touched at was Anjer, on the Straits of Sunda !
Many a poor fellow had to feed in those days, for
weeks at a time, on hard tack and plum duff-
mysterious creations of the cook's galley that do not
come before the passenger-traveller of the present
period. But, speaking of plum duff, I can safely assert
that the dark-coloured objects that were inserted in it
were not always raisins, for raisins I never knew to
possess legs.

I once heard a story — well, we have got to sea,
for Ushant is on our bow, and after we pass it the
Bay of Biscay is before us, and there is no place so con-
ducive to spinning yarns as board ship on broad ocean.
The yarn goes in this way : — Competition ran so high
in steam -boat traffic on the Hudson, that owners not
only carried passengers free, but provided them gra-
tuitously with meals. A thrifty, parsimonious man
deemed this an opportunity not to be lost, so he travelled
incessantly between New York and Albany. At last he
attracted so much attention that the daintiest viands
were reserved for less public characters. How strange
familiarity should breed contempt ! We are aware that
no one is a hero to. his own valet. Thus the worthy
man suffered in silence for a time, till the invariable
indifference of the food caused him to remonstrate.
" Mr. Steward," he said, " I have put up with flies
for currants, but hang me, sir, if I stand black-beetles
for plums ! " and the steam-boat owners had in future
to grieve over the loss of a patron.

Good weather and smooth seas made Morris all
right, and he became one of the sociables, This was

A "MIXED" POLITICIAN. 19

much assisted by my finding a dear old friend, late a
lieutenant in the navy, among the passengers, who
took to him at first sight. No wonder he and I had
yarns to spin, and many not without a spice of the
ridiculous ; for we had met in the Crimea, knew
half the ports in the Mediterranean, and visited lands
many miles farther distant. A better fellow never broke
biscuit, nor did a merrier laugh than his ever sound from
a gun-room. He was the beau ideal of the old school
of sailor — short, stout, and weather-beaten, with an eye
that ever twinkled with fun.

We arranged, with the kind permission of the captain,
to sit at table together. An uncouth wretch thought
that he would interfere ; but when he witnessed the
wrathful eyes of the Laird, and the combined disapproval
of the navy and army, he shut up, wishing, doubtless,
he had been within the boundaries of his distant farm
in some out-of-the-way part of the Old Colony. Another
character worthy of notice was christened the "Plunger."
I do not know that he had ever been a heavy dragoon,
still he had much horse in him. The wonderful stories
he would tell ! but where the points of his jokes came
in was ever a subject of dispute — our naval friend insisted
at one place, the Laird at another, while a third thought
the narrator had only been selling us. The Plunger
was also heavy on politics ; he was not a Liberal, as I
understand, nor was he Conservative, nor did he belong
to the intermediate party. He had all the leading men
of the day a little mixed ; one of his extraordinary
mistakes being that Brigham Young was President of
the United States, and that Mr. Gladstone had died of
tetanus. Where he got his information — as he invariably
shut up all disbelievers or questioners with the mere
c2

20 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

assertion of the facts — never transpired ; my authority
for this is indisputable. Even some of the clergymen —
for we had fourteen, I believe, on board — tried hard to
correct his errors ; but briefly and positively he declined
to be converted. Another of this gentleman's weaknesses
was to think that he was an excellent vocalist ; and
when night shrouded us in her sable mantle, he would
lie on deck, among rugs, and croak most dolefully,
surrounded by other passengers who preferred the dolce
far niente in such attitudes. During such reunions, we
were invariably astonished to hear some untruthful
person, or, at least, I hope, some person with extrava-
gant powers of imagination, exclaim, " By Jove, I have
lost my liquor." "No — you don't say so!" would
exclaim another ; adding, " I only replenished it a
minute ago." "No wonder," would add the Plunger ;
" is not that your glass in the scuppers ? If you
will be so careless on board of ship, what can you
expect ? " It would be well for me here to say that it
was soon after discovered that the Plunger had a
knowing way of appropriating his neighbour's grog, and
then getting rid of the glass. It was strange that this
excellent young man always got quarrelsome early, and
had an objection to the use of sea-legs, or any other
kind of legs, when assisted to his bunk.

But the greatest of all characters was Mr. Holly.
For some days after starting he did not put in an
appearance, indisposition and great depression of animal
spirits being reported as the cause. However, as he was
mated with my naval friend, and they slept in the next
cabin to myself and the Laird, I had opportunities of
studying Mr. H.'s ailments. The disease was different
from any I had seen before — his tendency being to sleep

ECCENTRICITIES OF MR. HOLLY. 21

without clothing, and sing " The Eed, White, and Blue."
This was the only song, to my knowledge, he ever at-
tempted, nor did he ever get beyond the second line.
After that there was a pause, when, with a sudden
yawn, or rather snort, he would evidently become con-
scious that he had forgotten or neglected something,
and again start with, " Three cheers," &c. &c.

He was a good companion to have in the next bunk ;
for you were ever kept sufficiently wakeful to be first in
the boats if collision or other fearful accident should
chance to occur.

Oh! Holly was a jolly fellow; fought the Basutos
on the side of the Boers, distinguished himself in sundry
raids where cattle were to be captured. Jumping horses
and bullocks were the most perfect pleasures of his life,
and fighting the Boer or Kaffir he took them from, for
friends and foes were the same to him, was only adding
piquancy to the joke. Holly was a confirmed smoker ;
his mouth must have been like a kitchen grate, fairly
encrusted with smut ; and even when asleep, there was
the pipe, out, of course, in its accustomed place. There
was one point on which he was grand — that was loyalty.
" The Queen, Grod bless her, right or wrong ! if you
don't believe in her when she's wrong, well, you are a
confounded traitor, sir ; I should like to have your com-
pany to a quieter part of the deck." That he meant it,
too, was most certain, and he would have challenged on
this point the whole ship's company, with the passengers
thrown in. It was grand to see him attack the man
who made himself disagreeable in arranging our dinner
places, afterwards discovered to be a Poundmaster; he
did it so urbanely, a gentle but playful smile illu-
minating his face, and a charming buttonhole familiarity

22 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

characterising his address. But the " keeper of stray
cattle " was not to be caught, and poor Holly was
ever left lamenting.

I have mentioned the number of clergymen we had
on board. They belonged to every sect and denomina-
tion, and doubtless were all sincere, earnest men.
One — a curate going out to Bloemfontein — I liked
immensely. He was a gentleman by birth and
education, charitable, warm-hearted, energetic; the
Episcopalians having service every morning in the
saloon, he read prayers daily, and I do not think I
once missed attendance during the whole voyage.
However, there was one reverend gentleman I did not
take so great a fancy to ; and that I had grounds for
doing so all will acknowledge, when I state the following
fact. The cook had obtained permission to make a pilau
a la Chinoise for me. I helped myself, and was handing
it to my companions, when the enemy stole up from the
foot of the table unawares, seized the dish and carried it
off in triumph. Still, there might have been time for a
coup de main rescue if prompt steps had been taken, but
we were all too much surprised to attempt anything
till the whole — enough for six Grenadiers — was divided
between himself and wife. It is but right to say he
was a Dutchman.

Certainly, in all my previous experience, I never
sailed in a ship with so many oddities — we overflowed
with them ; and they were good-natured withal, and at
times intensely amusing. It would be scarcely fair to
pass these good people without mentioning a loving
couple who sat opposite us at table. Their names were
Crommy — and the wife was all the name expresses.
Report said she had been married four times, and that

AN ELDERLY PAIR OF TURTLE-DOVES. 23

she was quite forty; but, whether or no, the playful
way these turtle-doves fed each other was quite enough
to make the most obdurate bachelor eschew his evil
courses and obtain a help -meat Mrs. C. had her
fingers covered with diamonds : these came from the
Diamond-fields, where they had been taken from the
craws of fowls served at a refreshment-room she kept.
The wife looked out for the husband more energeti-
cally than the husband did for the wife. And how the
provisions succumbed before their joint attack ! We, our
%trio, that is, always had a plate of olives after dinner ;
Mrs. Crommy thought that they must be confections of
extraordinary excellence. The plate was accidentally -
intentionally left within her reach, and the result was
that neither of the Crommys liked olives, if judgment
could be pronounced from the spluttering they made.

As some of the above persons may appear again, this
is my excuse for introducing them. To the many good,
kind-hearted gentlemen and ladies from whom we both
received unremitting attention and information on all
subjects necessary to our success on our intended tour, I
can only here offer sincere thanks, on behalf of my com-
panion as well as myself, and there is one of whom I can
say no more than express a hope that prosperity and
happiness ever be her attendant angels.

CHAPTEE IV.

FROM MADEIRA TO THE CAPE.

A Charmed Island— Madeira from the Sea— Its Foreign Aspect — Old Buildings
and Their Inmates — New Blood Wanted — Land Sharks — Its Horses —
Teneriffe — A Splendid Picture — African Memories — " Whales ! " — Ex- <
perience Teaches Whales — Porpoises, Bonito, and Skip-Jacks — Amusements
on Board Ship — A Death at Sea — Holly redivivus — The Plunger's Little
Game — The Poundmaster's Ignorant Insolence — Table Bay.

AFTER a most prosperous run across the Bay of Biscay,
and an equally smooth sea along the coast of Portugal,
on the fifth day we sighted Madeira at sunrise. The
ocean was calm as a mirror ; a few fishing-boats lay idly
for the first flaws of wind to take them to their moor-
ings, while the1 warm russet-tinted hill-tops told that
autumn had come, and that the grain had long since
been garnered in its stores. The nearer we approach
this charmed island, the easier is it to distinguish that
the water's edges possess a fringe of verdant colour as
bright as that of Devonshire, while the white houses
and villas call the observer back to Staten Island, in
New York Bay, early in June. Madeira is, truly,
wondrously pretty ; it is a priceless gem in the setting of
an ocean of blue enamel. But it does not always look
so fair, for the placid sea that now kisses its shore can,
like the angry Southern woman, smite with cruel blows
the object of its love. Look ! even now upon that
beach lie the remains of what has been a noble steam-

AT MADEIRA. 25

ship. With what skill and strength were her ribs
riveted together ; what fabulous power possessed her
engines ; and her spars — those tapering, graceful firs,
broken at the cap — have they never braved the tempest
in the forests of Maine, or on the banks of the ice-
locked fjords of Norway? Ay, have they, and the
graceful deer have fed beneath their green feathery
plumage. The squirrels and birds have made its
boughs a sanctuary, and now the cruel sea, in a fit of
wrath, has utterly destroyed them. Ocean, lovely in
your rest, fearful in your passion, how unforgiving
are you to the poor ship that is in your angry hands,
although you may have bathed her sides with your
caresses and nursed her on your bosom !

However, to-day is calm, and we are promised some
hours ashore, to do the sights so well known to every
naval officer in our service, and after having done those
sights, bring off as much fruit as the chosen of our
fellow-passengers can consume.

Madeira is truly foreign ; the black youths that
dive for your spare silver, the garrulous crews of shore -
boats, the tawdrily-dressed officials, and last, though not
least, the wondrous bum-boats, stocked in every nook
and corner with cage -birds or immense stores of semi-
tropical fruits, go indisputably to prove the fact.
Again, when you land at that disreputable ratan struc-
ture called a pier, for the use of which a fee is charged,
and you advance into the precincts of the town, well
might you think you had dropped into Spain when
that country was at her zenith of prosperity. In the
town there are no new houses — at least, very few. Who
now would dream of building such wondrous balconies,
or expect to see the light of heaven through such

26 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

extraordinary windows ? No — all is quaint, and speaks
of former dates ; everything is mouldy, and tells of the
past. I like old buildings when they are ruins, or, at
least, uninhabited; but to live in them, to have no
light, no ventilation, no comfort — never ! Besides,
insects, scorpions, centipedes, and tarantulas, all swarm
in such places ; and no wonder, for they are fit only for
such inmates. But with this condemnation I only
desire it to be understood that I should not wish to reside
in them ; still, the buildings interest one much, and
take one back to a time when bold deeds won heavy
rewards ; when fair dames and courtly cavaliers rode
together, hawk on hand ; when lordly demesnes had
lordly masters ; continents still were to be discovered,
unexplored seas yet to be navigated.

The Almada of Madeira looks as old as the trees
that gird it ; the houses that surround it are doubtless
as antique. The past is whispered ominously, the future
not foretold. Is it ever to remain thus ? What a world
of good a small infusion of American blood would do to
such a place ! Have our Transatlantic cousins found it
out yet ? I guess so ; it is not many places that they are
not cognisant of ; but what a difference it would make
if one could see some of the pretty faces, equally
prettily dressed, and the most perfectly gloved and
booted ladies in the world wandering through those
dreamy labyrinths of streets, that look now as if they had
the plague-spot deeply indented on them. Again, the
hawkish, hungry-looking men that follow you as the
pilot-fish does the shark, to chisel and swindle you
out of all they can — to steal, if not in act, at least in
thought. It is time, I think, these choice spots of
earth should be rescued from the curse of such a popu-

THE HORSES OF MADEIRA. 27

lation. The only thing to put a visitor in good temper
was the fruit-market and hotel ; the former was
attractive from the lavish display of such numerous
varieties of fruit ; the latter from the courtesy of the
hostess, the attention of the servants, the excellence
of the cuisine, and last, though not least, the beauty
of the garden overlooked by the terrace.

There is one more thing I ought to praise — when
the dumb creation are concerned, I would not willingly
neglect them — that is, the horses ; all barbs, from
Mogadore. This breed of horses I have had much
experience of, but never before did I see finer speci-
mens of the race that claims our Godolphin as
a worthy member. The chargers of the Chasseurs
d'Afrique are ponies compared with the horses here,
and have not half the stamina ; and my only regret was
that they had such smitch-like masters.

A good dinner, a long stroll in the garden, with an
immense supply of fruit, brought the time for embarka-
tion ; and nothing prevented our getting comfortably
on board our good ship, but a playful tendency of
our friend the Laird to pelt the numerous parrots with
green figs. These birds hung at all convenient places,
while the representative of the Land of Cakes all the
time expressed his belief that they were GOO-COOS. I
may have looked on, but I was not &particeps criminis.

What a stock of comestibles had been brought on
board in the shape of fruit, &c., during our absence !
The ship almost compared with Covent Garden. It was
evident that we were not to be starved during the
remainder of the voyage ; and fortunately so, for in a
day or two we experienced tropical weather, when fruit
is ever most acceptable.

28 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

Often as I have seen Teneriffe, I never saw it in such
perfection as on this occasion. Not a film of cloud kissed
it; the giant peak stood out distinct and unimpaired
in outline, while the blue, cloudless heaven formed the
most charming background to its warm sky-line. A
boat or two, and those distant, dotted the water, so they
did not interfere with the glorious repose of the scene.
Fairy-land may be decked in silver, with the green of
the emerald and the pure lustre of the diamond, still it
could not surpass God's picture, for a more perfect com-
bination of colouring could not be imagined. In the
lake districts of Scotland, after a long warm day, when
the cattle are standing knee- deep, and one herd lows
across their watery resting-place to another, and the
trout are rising, leaving their splash undisturbed by
wind and wave, and the swift and swallow dip up their
insect prey with skilful swoop, and the ravens are
winging homewards their way to mountain fastnesses,
I have seen a tip of hill — the smallest possible portion
— illuminated with this ruby-gold flood of light, but it
was a miniature compared to the picture that was now
before us.

This is a wondrous fair world at times, but the
traveller, the weary soul who pants for rest and finds it
not, sees its grandest perfections. That great and good
Providence, who keeps our feet from wearying and our
heart from failing, doubtlessly has thus ordained it, to
help the poor wayfarer to follow the path to the bitter
end.

Teneriffe far now to the north, let us look in the
direction of that great land that lies on our western bow.
It is a long way off, it is true; still, few do not know
more or less about it — how many hearts it has broken,

"WHALES!" 29

how many noble men done to death ! We have
passed the northern boundary of the tropics. The
latitude is 18° ; and what memories does this locality
recall ? Poor Mungo Park ! Who is there that,
when a boy, has not read his writings, and, with
sorrowful heart, felt for his sufferings? And who
has not among his young admirers dropped a tear
when he came to the passage where the poor black
woman brought him food? for the solitary white man
had no friends. And again a little farther south, poor
Winwoode Eeade laboured, and farther on still Clapper-
ton, Denham, and Lander. Yes, Africa has taken many,
will still have more, and yet not be satisfied. That
west coast is a hard, cruel country to the Anglo-Saxon.
Could you navigate some of its bayous or creeks, thread
your passage through the intricate mangrove swamps,
see the giant hideous crocodile reposing on mud-banks
reeking with fever and miasma, you would at once say it
is no place for the white man. True, it is not ; and
although I once craved to be an explorer there, the task
must now pass to younger hands — less able, certainly, to
be spared, and more capable of bearing the brunt. No,
no, not now, but to the radiant south I am bound —
where the pellucid Zambesi, and no less clear Limpopo
push onward their way, and seek to mingle their waters
with the Indian Ocean.

When unusually quiet on deck, and the heat had
made all more or less languid (I could not help thinking
in the foregoing strain, for Africa is no new land to
me, and I have carefully studied its history), and while
in this brown study, a cry of " Whales ! " was raised,
and all with one accord rushed to have a look at
the mammoth monsters of the deep. All the forenoon

30 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

we had been passing through fields of sea- weed, and that
extraordinary yellow stuff designated by the sailors
" whale-spume " was floating around us. What it is
composed of I do not know, but imagine it is immense
collections of diminutive squid; and of one thing I am
certain — that whales are almost invariably seen in the
vicinity of this spume.

At least thirty or more whales on this occasion
must have been in sight; and if ever creatures appeared
to enjoy life and take the world easy, they do. The
very blowing noise they make seemed like a grunt of
approval. The captain, who has been many years at
sea, came up to me while watching them, and stated,
that experience of steamers has made them far more
cautious than formerly ; for that, in his younger days,
he could remember almost striking them with the stem.
Here we have it that whales profit by experience ; but as
for man — that paragon of perfection — how many lessons
are thrown away upon him !

Since we left Madeira, flying-fish have been unusually
numerous ; and to-day they are even more abundant, and
consequently porpoises, bonito, and skip- jacks are having
a high old time among them. All must know that
the first belongs to the whale family, are warm-blooded,
suckle their young, and are not fish : while the former
of the two last is but a giant mackerel, known in
the Mediterranean as tunny-fish, in the St. Lawrence as
horse-mackerel, and in mid-ocean, by sailors, as albecore.
They are beautifully marked, very active, and ex-
tremely powerful in the water, and possess the charac-
teristic minor fins between the lower dorsal fin and tail.
The skip-jack is also like the mackerel, but slimmer
in build ; however, it does not possess this characteristic

AMUSEMENTS ON BOAED. 31

of the Scomberida. A "Portuguese man-of-war" has also
been constantly in sight. What a strange little creature
it is, with its ruby-tinted sail ! — resembling a miniature
boat, the ship of some diminutive sprites who have
stolen away for a sail upon the golden- sheened element !
What a world of wonder we live in, and how little do
we understand it, after all ! and where are its astound-
ing freaks so wondrously exhibited as at sea ? To view
these extraordinary works, if man will only think — but
that is the point : who thinks ? — must make him less
earthly than he is, and draw his heart closer to the
great Creator.

Fine weather and favourable breezes still stop with
us ; we have had amateur theatricals, tableaux vivants,
readings, and lectures on board. It is surprising how
time flits by. In fact — there can be no question on the
subject — this is the voyage now to take for pleasure ;
for altnough twenty -two days seem a long time to
spend at sea, everything passes so harmoniously and so
regularly, that the traveller can scarcely trust his
memory when he finds that he has been so long absent
from home. To invalids, I feel convinced the voyage
would be most beneficial, and it requires only to be
more extensively known to become more practised.

Sailors' ingenuity is certainly most wonderful : to
see the flush- deck abaft the gangway turned into a
theatre or reading-room, with flags of all nationalities
shutting out the night air, and resplendent stars of
bayonets, and other glittering and handsome devices,
arranged and ready for use in the short period we are
at the tea-table, certainly has a look of enchantment.

Mr. E. M. Ballantyne, the author of so many
successful boys' books, gave us this evening (sixteen

32 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

days out) a most instructive lecture on the Hudson's
Bay Territories, where he spent many of the early
years of his life. The lecture was illustrated by
sketches from his own pencil — admirable and graphic
in the extreme. One drawing of Tadusac, on the St.
Lawrence, and another of a log-cabin on the snow-
covered margin of a small lake, took me thousands of
miles away, to where I had once shot the moose and
cariboo, or tracked poor bruin to his hollow-log home.

A death occurred this day on board. The unfor-
tunate was sent to sea too late to save his life ; although
every attention had been given him, and his poor wife
was more than unremitting in her attention. At half-
past ten in the morning the ship had her engines
stopped, for the funeral obsequies. The beautiful, solemn
service over the dead was just commenced when an
immense shark rose to the surface, from under the
counter of the ship. Fortunately the poor distressed
lady did not see the monster, or her feelings could more
easily be imagined than described. But, strange as it
may appear, such things do frequently happen at sea.
Can a shark smell a corpse, as the sailors say ? Why
not, then, the pigs and sheep constantly slaughtered
for food ?

Holly has become once more very musical — that
unfortunate song has been done to death; and as his
grog has been stopped, it was imagined that, in pro-
portion to the decrease of the distance to be traversed, his
spirits had risen; but such turned out to be mere theory.
My naval friend had laid in a stock of Madeira for
acquaintances at the Cape ; but, alas ! his perfidious
fellow-passenger, with a nose as acute for liquids as a
pointer's for a partridge, discovered the treasure, lubri-

THE POUNDMASTERS COURTESY. 33

cated his throat with, it so frequently, that its machinery
became sufficiently oiled to enable him to revert to his
old source of amusement.

Great indignation has been vented on the Plunger ;
steady seas and level keels make no excuse for erratic
tumblers to upset and roll down into the scuppers ; so
his quondam associates keep him at a distance when
they are resting with glasses within reach. How well
this man would have suited the Governor of North
Carolina, who so feelingly and touchingly informed the
Governor of South Carolina that he was too long
between the drinks ! The Southern States and not
South Africa is his place.

The Poundmaster has also distinguished himself.
His daughter or niece was asked by a gentleman to
sing, one evening ; the answer was more explicit than
polite : his girl was not going to sing for the amusement
of a pack of snobs ! The pere has consequently been
" cut " by the men, and the poor little girl " sent to
Coventry" by the ladies. This is the first evidence that
we have had of temper ; but was a long voyage ever got
over without that discovery ?

On the morning of the twenty-third day, to the joy,
possibly, of some, but to the deep grief of many, Table
Mountain was sighted ; and as no table-cloth draped it,
we steamed slowly up the bay, and two hours afterwards
were comfortably docked.

• x*» oa

CHAPTER V.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF SOUTH AFRICA.

Holly joins Us — On the Look-out for a Coaster — Our Plans Altered — We pur-
chase a Wagon — A Visit to Rondebosch and Constantia — A. Private Garden
— South African Pick-me-up not to be recommended — Adieu to Cape Town
— We reach Port Elizabeth — A Funny Lot of Visitors — The Poundmaster
exposed — Port Elizabeth — The Florence — East London — ts Dangerous
Roadstead — First Sight of Game — Arrival at Port Durban — Its Bar — A
Day Lost in Sight of Land — Preparing for Our Journey — Port Durban —
The Upper and Middle Classes— The "Smart" Men of Durban— A Splendid
Ride— The Best Drivers in the World.

HOLLY, who had become wonderfully attached to Morris
and myself, insisted on joining us in our trip up country ;
he could speak Dutch, and professed to be an expert in
the management and driving of cattle, two accom-
plishments we might find more than useful. As he was
really not a bad fellow, and neither of us could resist
his appeals — for, after all, we could urge nothing against
him but his thirstiness, and it struck us forcibly that
the Great Thirst Land was, of all places in the world,
the one most likely to suit his complaint — we consented,
on the condition that he promised faithfully and soberly
to perform his task. Again, it was a great advantage
to have a third white man with us, who would take
charge of the wagon at night, if Morris and myself were
detained shooting at water, or had gone so far in pursuit
of game during the day as to be unable to return to our
^encampment. Again, he was a stalwart, powerful man, un-
questionably brave, and accustomed for years to velt-life.

FIRST BREAK IN OUR PLANS. 35

Morris and myself had settled, before starting from
England, that we should disembark at Cape Town, then
procure a small coaster, and sail direct to Walwich Bay,
on the west coast. On me all arrangements devolved; but
although every dock was hunted, advertisements inserted
and read, not a craft suitable to our purpose could be
found. True, there was a small steamer running up to
Port Noloth, in the desolate regions surrounding the
copper-mines; but there we would be no better off than
where we were, for many and many a weary mile through
the most trying sand-doons must be passed before we
reached where game could be expected. Again, I heard,
through a trustworthy source, that the missionaries* a
few days inland from Walwich Bay would not sell cattle to
persons coming there for purposes of sport, as it took the
ivory -trade out of their hands, drove the game farther
from their residences, and unsettled the black population
by creating in them a desire to go and do likewise.

So thus early and most unwillingly we had to alter
our plans. This was the more inconvenient, as our
baggage was all booked to this port; so that, being
entered on the manifest of the ship, it would require to
go through the Custom House before it could be tran-
shipped. The officials were most obliging, and, with
the kind assistance of the agents of Messrs. Donald
Currie and Co., our first annoyance was bridged over.
This was not done without a lot of bother ; for I never
leave to another what I can do myself; thus I was on
the dock from the moment cargo was broached till the
hatches of the coasting steamship were closed. I forget
exactly how many packages we had — over twenty, I

* These are Swedes or Danes. None of our missionaries trade ; at least, I
never saw or heard an instance of it.

D2

36 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

think, with some loose lead in bars — and I was fortunate
enough to escape any loss. Here we bought our wagon ;
the builder of it was a friend of Holly's. It cost a
hundred and ten pounds, including dissel-boom, yokes,
treck-tow, and keys, and in every sense of the word it
was quite worthy of the price paid. So large a con-
veyance had to be taken to pieces before putting on board
the coasting-steamer, the tent part being very bulky and
cumbersome. As freight is charged by measurement, the
cost of shipping it to Natal was twenty pounds. This
certainly appears a great deal, but I am convinced that
both captain and agents would much sooner have sailed
without it ; for I suppose if heavy weather had occurred,
there would have been no other course than to heave it
overboard.

Being once more free from care and anxiety, I turned
to to enjoy myself, and see the wonders of Cape Town.
One of our fellow-passengers, long a resident at the
Cape, had given us an invitation to pay him a visit at
his country residence in Eondebosch. As two ladies,
also passengers, were anxious to avail themselves of a
similar invitation, Morris engaged a handsome carriage,
with four excellent bays, and sitting beside the for-
midable-looking Malay coachman, tooled us out in grand
style.

Kondebosch and Constantia, from old experience, I
knew to be very pretty; but never conceived that I
should see such a view as could be had from our host's
gardens. It was Marapossa County, California, come
to life in South Africa. Table Mountain, as it over-
hangs Cape Town, is bleak ; but here all was green and
verdant as our fields in May. But to return to the
garden ; I do not know that I ever saw a more beautiful

SOMETHING LIKE A GARDEN. 37

one — the choice and variety of shrubs were wonderful,
many being natives of sub-tropical climates. Vines,
oranges, and almost every variety of fruit, grew in the
wildest profusion, and the extent of all this ran into
many acres. There were several ponds, a rivulet,
and pum ping-machines, explaining how this wealth of
vegetable life was kept in such a healthy condition; and
to till the soil, weed, prune, and perform other gardening
functions, sixteen Hottentots were employed. Wines
of the choicest vintage, some so old that I am afraid to
state their age, did much towards shortening the journey
homewards ; while pontac and soda, strongly recom-
mended by Holly, failed to put me in a serene state of
mind next morning. When you visit the Cape, avoid
vineyards and wine- tasting, and above all, never take
the advice of an Africander on the subject of what you
ought to imbibe in the morning as a pick-me-up.

Although I enjoyed myself exceedingly, and received
much hospitality in Cape Town, the hour for departure
was most, acceptable. With a dark, black, threatening
sea, and lowering, searching wind, we started, and, ere
reaching Simon's Bay, commenced to regard a heavy
southerly gale a moral certainty ; but the weatherwise
were disappointed, and those who from ignorance kept
silence were at once credited with the most critical
observation. Mossel Bay was passed in the evening,
and at break of day the long stretch of yellow sand that
surrounds Port Elizabeth was in sight. No sooner had
the anchor dropped than the vessel was fairly stormed
by friends and relations of the passengers ; and what
a funny lot most of them looked — for I believe the
majority were from small towns up country. Their
manners and dress were horseyish; but where, oh,

38 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

where, reside the tailors that constructed their gar-
ments ? I trust so far inland that they may for ever
be unable to trouble other and older lands. The appe-
tites these locusts possessed were fabulous. I have seen
some tall feeding in the United States, but here it
was taller. Everything and anything was on the same
plate — sweets, pickles, meat, and fish, all to disappear,
regardless of order, into the same capacious maw.
Here Morris discovered the missing link of Dr. Darwin
— possibly that eminent savant would like to know its
whereabouts, but if M. be wrong, the error is excusable.

Among our passengers was a young lady, fair,
stout, and good-looking ; she had been sent out to order
for a young man who contemplated matrimony. I will
not mince matters, but acknowledge that she did flirt
just a little on the voyage.

When at Cape Town the gentleman, my naval friend,
took his departure, a wee diamond tear stood in each of
her eyes. Coming up from our last port, I tried to show
her a little attention, but she would not be comforted.
With the invaders arrived her future husband ; for, let
me add, they had never met before, and as a matter of
course the poor child was anxious to see what one who was
going to bear so near a relationship was like ; but when
the two were introduced I shall never forget her expres-
sion— it did not augur well for a continuance of connu-
bial bliss. And to make matters worse, some meddling
busybody sent an anonymous letter, telling of the short-
comings of his love while on the voyage. To the Pound-
master was attributed the writiog of this document.
However, whether fairly accused or not, it was just such
an act as all believed him capable of. The biter being
bitten is no false adage, and soon after it was verified.

THE LAST OF THE POUNDMASTER. 39

A boat came alongside the ship ; in its stern-sheets
was a young, good-looking, well-dressed man, with
the inevitable crop in his hand. On reaching the
deck the stranger met many old friends, and he was
affably conversing among a group of them, when his
eyes lit on the Poundmaster. In a moment his coun-
tenance changed ; rage, indignation, and hatred were all
expressed, and with a most forcible objurgation, he
called out, " By jingo, if that is not the Poundmaster of
Bedford," and with the spring of a tiger-cat rushed at
his prey. But the other was too quick ; in a shot he
doubled round the companion-ladder, in and out among
bales of goods, ultimately seeking shelter in the hold.
The race was not in this instance to the swift, for the
pursuer was too heavily handicapped by at least three
friends hanging to the skirts of his coat. Naturally,
this episode created no little curiosity, and an explana-
tion was asked and granted. Nor afterwards could we
wonder at the anger displayed by the new arrival ; nor
will the reader, when he learns that the Poundmaster
was detected driving in this gentleman's work- oxen
from their own pasture, to incarcerate them in the
pound. Yerily, they do strange things in the frontier-
towns of South Africa.

The last we heard of the Poundmaster was that
Holly gave him a kick to accelerate his movements
as he went over the gangway. We thought this a
summary proceeding ; but when it was explained that he
passed himself off on the worthy Holly as a wealthy
farmer and merchant, and thus induced him and persons
to associate with him who would not be seen in his
society even at a bear-bait, we could scarcely resist
believing that he only got what he merited.

40 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

Would you believe it ? this low, worthless scamp was
almost the only grumbler on board the ship. Food,
stewards — in fact, everything — he found fault with ; yet
" what can you expect from a hog, but a grunt ? "

The Florence, in which we were prosecuting the re-
mainder of our journey, not being yet in sight, we had
time to take a run on shore. Port Elizabeth is a brisk,
pushing, prosperous business town, prettily situated, and
ornamented with many handsome buildings. Among
our late passengers, we had become intimate with many
who called this home. If we had accepted half the
invitations given to us, we must have remained a
week instead of a few hours, and one fair friend would
have induced me here to spend a life.

At the Phoenix Hotel, an excellent house, we said
our last adieus, and drank a deoch-an-durass, and as
the boat bore us from the beach, I could long see a tiny,
well-gloved hand waving the most gossamer pocket-
handkerchief in token of farewell. But it behoves us
to hurry: the Florence looks impatient, and Captain
Jones is not the commander to lose time. As we
approach, we discover the wagon-tilt is safe, for already
we had felt grave doubts on the subject. And at this
stage of the proceedings it would have been a most
serious los*s.

Ascending to the deck, we find ourselves on board a
yacht of about 600 tons, for as such the Florence was
built. She was purchased for her present traffic on
account of her light draught of water and sea-going
qualities.

We find that through the captain's kindness a most
comfortable cabin has been allotted to our private use,
with Holly installed next door. This can scarcely be

A DANGEROUS COAST. 41

considered an advantage, as he has been doing " The
Eed, White, and Blue " with more than usual vehe-
mence, and more or less variations ; but he is as irre-
pressible as the nigger was said to be in America. Let
others judge and think of him as they like ; to me he
appears a big, kindly -hearted child, incapable of over-
coming his one great failing.

East London, our next anchorage, is very pretty at
this season ; the hill- sides were beautifully green, and
here and there studded with white tents and covered
wagons, the property of persons who have come from
the interior to enjoy the luxury of sea-bathing. But
what a dangerous harbour or open roadstead it possesses !
Look at the surf even now, when there is scarcely suffi-
cient wind to move an ostrich plume, and tell me where
you have seen a more difficult landing. In a south-
east gale it must simply be terrific. Cargo-boats do not
delay here ; they must make their hay while the sun
shines, for no one knows what a single hour may bring
forth. Even while we gaze on that dreadful snow-
encompassed beach of surf, there is a yell on shore,
echoed from the ship, for a large whale-boat with six
men in it has capsized. I believe no lives in this
instance were lost, but it is painful to witness how feeble
and puny are the exertions of the strongest human being
when placed in such a position. East London, I have
stated, is very pretty, but, like the careful mariner, I
would sooner give it a wide berth on the seaboard.

Lying close along by the coast of British KafFraria,
our good little ship rapidly carries us to our destination,
Port Durban. The shores are not elevated enough to
be termed grand, but they are exceedingly attractive, and
in many places diminutive cascades of fresh water tumble

42 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

down the cliffs. Here and there, in the distance inland,
Kaffir kraals can be detected ; and on one vast grassy
plain, sparsely sprinkled with brush, game of some kind
— I should suppose wildebeest (gnu) — were to be seen.

The first sight of these animals warmed the heart of
Morris, and already he saw himself, in thought at least,
in full chase. Bat what is that proud, bold promontory
almost dead ahead? It is where the signal-station
and lighthouse stand, marking the entrance into Port
Durban, perhaps the most difficult harbour of all on the
east coast, on account of the bar. This shore is terribly
deficient of shelter from the prevailing winds, and,
although its seaboard is so long, only two safe anchor-
ages can be found — Saldanha Bay, to the west of the
Cape, and Delagoa Bay, in Portuguese territory.

Before getting to our moorings, for we had to anchor
outside, the harbour-master having reported the bar im-
practicable, we ran through immense schools of albicore.
Soon lines were out and many hooked, but all exertions
failed to bring one on board; like their relatives, the
mackerel, I believe them more powerful than any other
fish of their size.

More than a day lost, with nothing to do but march
the deck and discuss whether the bar is worse or the
reverse. Towards sunset there was an improvement in
the weather, and to our great relief the tow-boat was
seen getting up steam. As it was Sunday, we had
afforded no small amount of amusement to numerous
loungers on the beach, who seemed to think our plight
was a capital joke. But the tug came, bump, bump,
bump, and, thank Providence, we are again in deep
water. It does not take landsmen, hungering for terra
Jirma, long to get on shore, and a drive of three miles

DURBAN HOSPITALITY. 48

brought us to our hotel in Durban proper. Here ter-
minated our sea-voyage — truly a most enjoyable one
—and here our most adventurous land one commenced.
Leaving out the convivialities of that evening, I will
enumerate what business had to be performed on the
morrow, for all who follow in our wake will have to do
likewise.

An invoice of your baggage is handed to the custom-
house authorities, a permit obtained to land your guns,
which being granted, also goes to the customs,
where each barrel is stamped and a pound duty paid on
it ; there is an import-duty also charged on wagons.

First it was intended to purchase oxen and horses
here, but the prices were so exorbitant that we resolved
to hire a team of bullocks, yoke them to our own
wagon, and thus get our traps to Pieter-Maritzburg.
At length, after repeated failures, I secured the services
of a Boer to accomplish the task for ten pounds sterling
—about half what all others had demanded. Still, we
were paying too much ; but necessity knows no law.
Before leaving Durban, I would say it is a very pretty
town, essentially tropical in all its characteristics. To
many of its merchants we were indebted for great kind-
ness— in fact, their hospitality is proverbial. If, on arrival,
we had called upon any of them, and requested their
services, they would have at once stopped the numerous
extortions attempted — alas ! several times successfully.
But, having referred to the honourable men who compose
the upper class, save me from falling into the hands of
such Philistines as make up the middle grade !

Mr. Robinson, delegate for the colony, and editor
and proprietor of the leading journal in Durban, whose
acquaintance I had the pleasure of making, would, I am

44 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

convinced, be glad to give advice to any English gentle-
men; and the novice could not possibly be in better hands.

I am not a bad-tempered man. I have travelled
much, am accustomed to roughing, and have had to
associate with all classes on terms of equality. The
Yankee horse and cattle dealer I deem smart; the
Canadian one smarter; but the Durban breed — if those
I came in contact with are a fair sample — are con-
founded swindlers.

But, to leave the disagreeables, early one fine
morning we found ourselves on the top of a cart, with
four almost unbroken horses and a reckless but splendid
driver. By Jove ! it made my old heart young again to
note the pace we covered the ground. Accidents some-
times happen by this mode of conveyance : but, whether
or no, it is well worth the risk. My friend was in like
mind with myself; we chaffed and chatted, fed and
smoked, never tired of admiring the swelling, undulating
green hills and grander coppies. The country deserves
all praise, and its future must be great. The white-
necked ravens that sat so tamely on the roadside gave
us especial pleasure ; there was something so absurd in
sombre, sepulchral ravens, each possessing an exactly
similar white necktie. But the summit of our enthu-
siasm was reached when the last team was put in harness,
previous to dashing into Pieter-Maritzburg. Which
were the more thorough scoundrels, wheelers or leaders
— for all kicked, feared, and bucked — it would be hard
to tell; however, the Zulu boys at their heads hung
on to their respective charges till the word to let go
was given ; and the style in which we went down that
hill and over the next few miles of velt was simply
splendid.

SOUTH AFRICAN DRIVERS. 45

The men who used to tool the overland stages to
California could drive : I thought in this specialty the
American beat all her gracious Majesty's subjects, but
this day I felt grateful to have, thus late in life, the
error removed from my mind, and more grateful still
when I considered that Uncle Sam's experts could be
beaten by our common niggers. Do not misunderstand
me. I love the American people for their courage,
endurance, and enterprise ; but that is the very reason
I like to beat them. What credit is there in winning
a race from a cart-horse, or beating an effete, worn-out
old man in a sparring- match ? From the distance the
view of Pieter-Maritzburg is very pretty, the red-tiled,
white houses contrasting beautifully with the brilliant
green poplar or willow trees ; and when we halted at
Mr. Prefer 's Hotel we found that the town, if possible,
improved on closer inspection.

•
.

CHAPTEE VI

MR. PREFER, OF PREFER?S HOTEL.

A Week of Laughter — Mine Host — An Oddity — His Peculiar Way of 'trans-
acting Business — Prefer's Nationality — "All Mine, all Mine" — Pound your
Cattle — Various Purchases of Live Stock — I ride on to Howick — A Fearful
Storm — Summit House — Howick — Its Loveliness — No Wagon — A Chapter
of Accidents — Holly dismissed — Zeiderberg's Team — Reach Howick at last
— Catch a Cropper almost.

PIETER-MARTTZBURG, the political capital of Natal, I
shall never forget, for the reason that I laughed more
there in a week than I ever did in a month. Much
of this merriment was owing to our host — not that
he was ever ungentlemanly, but the reverse. He pre-
sided, in grave dignity, at the head of his own table,
and discussed with great good sense local politics, the
topics of the day, and little scandals that constantly vex
society ; but when you became acquainted with Mr.
Prefer you discovered that he possessed a deep vein of
satire and great comic powers. He also must have been
a man of study, for he professed to speak Zulu with
the proficiency of a native. I certainly heard him, on
numerous occasions, when a great, powerful, handsome
native was bounding past, shout out, " Homy lapa!"
What it meant, I knew not, but it had a visible effect
on the native, who always afterwards seemed for many
minutes to pursue his course a sadder if not a wiser
man.

Like all geniuses, he transacted his affairs after a

MINE HOST. 47

manner of his own. The hotel especially was witness
of this ; for whenever business or pleasure called him
abroad, he would invariably ask the first of his guests
to go and take care of the bar, dispense the beverages,
and do what he liked with the cash-box. Such a man
could not be narrow-minded — impossible that he could
be so is written plainly on the face of what I have said,
Still, the following playful little incident took place ;
and how well it proves that all men are mortal — that
the great mind is subject to infirmities as well as the
lesser, that the best-balanced head may forget as well
as the fool ! Mr. Prefer felt thirsty ; so did one of his
guests. The weather was sultry, so champagne was
decided on as the most suitable beverage, and it was
resolved to toss who should incur the cost of a quart
bottle. Our host was without ready money : wealthy
men are sometimes, clever men are frequently, but
brilliant men are invariably impecunious. Thus Mr.
Prefer borrowed a sovereign to toss with : fate was
against him, and he lost. This struck him as worthy
of thought ; and his giant brain became absorbed in a
deep study of the inscrutable perverseness of the fickle
jade Fortune. However, he was recalled to the
existence of the outer world by the pop of the cork.
I have known many instances of deep and erudite
thinkers being called to their material state by a similar
means. The champagne was cool, brisk, and possessed
of good bouquet, and therefore went to that bourn from
whence little champagne returns. Suddenly, business
called our host away : the returning of the sovereign
mattered not at the time ; the visitor could get credit
for it in his next bill.

A few days passed, and settlements had to be made,

48 TEE GREAT THIRST LAND.

when, to the surprise of the guest, he found, as an item
in his account, a sovereign loaned J:o toss with, and ten
shillings for wine lost on the occasion ! Several were
acquainted with the circumstances of the case, and when
the denouement came our mirth was hilarious. It was
one of those peculiar things this great genius could do
without any one blaming him.

About our host we had another quaint story. When
Germany was supposed to be a power of no importance
he was residing in one of our colonies where all the
inhabitants were English ; so he resolved to be a subject
of our gracious Queen. For thirty shillings that privi-
lege was accorded him. After that, in different localities
to which he was called, he became a Scotchman and an
Irishman ; for the first he paid one pound, for the last
two shillings. He was now happy ; who could say that
he was not a Briton ? What potentate had a lien upon
him but the monarch " whose flag has braved a thousand
years the battle and the breeze ? " But the blast of the
tocsin of war bellowed throughout Europe — Germany
and Trance were in arms to destroy each other, and, to
the surprise of many, Mr. Prefer in particular, the
former great power conquered. There was grief in his
heart for what he had done ; would he not sooner belong
to the great Teuton race ? Yes, certainly ! So he wrote
to the English, Scotch, and Irish officials to whom he
had paid the various sums, with a polite request that
his money might be returned. To his great surprise no
answer has been received, not even up to the present
moment. " Ah," he used ever to apostrophise, " the
English Government do know how to look after JSTo. 1."

Well, we were most comfortable at his hotel,
although we used occasionally to take wine with him

PURCHASING CATTLE. 49

at his own request, and be charged with it afterwards,
or asked to take a seat in his carriage to visit his
country estate, when you were safe to find a bill from
the livery-stable next morning. The first time I drove
with him we traversed miles ; every few furlongs he
quietly and seriously murmured, " All mine," and by
the time I got home " millionaire " was no term for the
affluence I believed him possessed of; but the stable-
boy at bath -time tendered me the bill for horses and
carriage. From that time forth my eyes were opened,
and I saw things in a new light. To leave joking on
one side, his charges were most moderate ; nothing was
a trouble that he could do to serve us, and he was
invariably courteous, and ever entertaining. The eccen-
tricities I have alluded to deserved no other name. In
our selection of cattle, horses, &c., he aided us much, and
prevented us from being imposed upon. I repeat I like
Mr. Prefer, and if I do wrong in narrating these tales
of him, my excuse is that it mattered not who was
present he told them of himself.

Holly, about whom I have lately been silent, con-
tinued to sing with almost additional vehemence,
" Red, White, and Blue ; " but as our cattle must
be bought, and a start made, it became necessarj
to make him pull himself together. At length he
selected a team of black Zulus at ten pounds a head.
Without exception they were very handsome and in
excellent condition. For safety they were nightly
placed in the pound, for which a small sum is demanded.
This should never be neglected, and it ought to be one
of the golden rules engraved upon the mind of the up-
country African traveller. At Durban I had made several
offers for horses, but the vendor would listen to none,
E

50 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

but asked such exorbitant prices that I was obliged to
defer obtaining mounts till our arrival here. As luck
would have it we found the string of nags had been
removed up here, and were to be sold by auction to
the highest bidder ; thus I obtained two for the price
I had offered for one. These animals had been bred
north of the Vaal river, and were supposed to be saultedi,
hence my anxiety to procure them. From another
person I bought a large, well-made chestnut, warranted,
saulted and an experienced game killer ; twenty-five
pounds was the price paid for this beast, and a greater
brute never looked through a bridle. I had also picked
up from one person and another about a dozen dogs,
several of which were half-bred greyhounds, the rest,
of the pack were arrant mongrels. Neither had Morris
been idle; he had taken in hand the commissariat
department, and hours of each day he spent inde-
fatigably selecting stores and seeing them packed.

While here we had formed numerous friendships,, so
numerous in fact that our rooms were never empty.
Some were persons I had met before or heard of, but all
were unquestionably a most gentlemanly lot of young,
men ; a little lax possibly, a little dissipated certainly, .
Everything having been procured, the wagon packed^
the oxen bought, and the horses and dogs standing at,
the stable of the hotel, one Sunday evening, at dusk?
I determined to ride eighteen miles on our road, to, the
hotel of Howick, and there wait for my companions,
for at daylight the cattle were to be yoked, and under
ordinary circumstances we should all dine together at',
three or four o'clock in the afternoon of Monday.

As a matter of course I had never been to Howick

• ; 'i* 100

before, and just as it got dark I started from Heter-

TRAVELLING UNDER DIFFICULTIES. 51

Maritzburg. The town hill I reached, ascended a mile
or more, and then the rain commenced to come down
in torrents. The higher I advanced, the worse became
the storm. The thunder rolled with its deepest and
most powerful voice, from the mountains above ; while
the lightning cleft its way down, down into the almost
unfathomable black valleys beneath. It was a truly
fearful night ; and if I had gone over the scarpment,
nothing but utter destruction could have been the result.
Still my little horse, a bay Basuto pony just over
fourteen hands, toiled manfully on, and higher and
higher, steeper and steeper, became the road in this
Alpine region.

At length the slope became such that I dis-
mounted, placed the reins over my shoulder, and
trudged, best foot forward. The little horse behaved
admirably, and even thus early I would not have sold
him for double what he had cost. A long, long mile
more, and I came to a shanty called the Summit House;
here I refreshed the inward man, and obtained the satis-
factory information that a few hundred yards would
bring me to the top of the pass. The mouthful of
gruel I gave to the little nag put fresh life in him ; so
I threw my leg over the saddle, and rode the remainder
of the journey ; the only accident that occurred being
his falling over some boulders in a bad, rough rivulet
called Keed Spruit.

Ho wick is a beautiful place ; it stands on the margin
of the Umganey river, which, about one hundred yards
from the hotel door, goes over a perpendicular fall of
nearly three hundred feet. My head would not stand
the ordeal of approaching the margin of the abyss, so
I crossed to the opposite side of the ravine, and had a

E2

52 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

look at the cascade ; and I say, without hesitation, that
it is one of the most attractive I have ever seen. The
water was low when I visited it ; if the river is in flood,
all those I have heard speak of it, and are capable of
giving an opinion, pronounce it under such circum-
stances very much grander. Round the hotel are
planted a number of Australian blue gum-trees ; their
height is now over fifty feet, although only seven years
old ; but the landlord complained that he believed they
attracted lightning. Grapes, tomatoes, and other fruit,
also grew in abundance around the establishment, in
fact, in such profusion that I wonder the Pieter-
Maritzburg people do not select Howick for a summer
residence.

At the hotel here I met a capital young fellow,
engaged in surveying and mending roads. His tent
was pitched on the other side of the river, and as I
remained waiting for the wagon, I spent much of my
time with him. He had not long left home, and com-
plained bitterly of the loneliness of his position. His
labourers were all Zulus. This people are, without
question, a splendid lot of men, and, I believe, faithful
and well-disposed when properly treated.

At length my patience could stand it no longer ; if
the mountain would not come to Mahomet, Mahomet
must go to the mountain. So I got my horse, and
started to find the wagon, determined to stick in future
to it through thick and thin, and, even now, filled with
regrets that aught had induced me to leave it. Holly
was not trustworthy, Morris was unaccustomed to rough-
ing it in the strongest sense of the word; so I must
take the helm and remain there, if I wish to go forward.

Half-way to Maritzburg I saw Morris, to my joy ;

DISMISSED ON THE SPOT. 53

he was on the big chestnut, but no wagon was in sight.
Soon we met ; and what a series of misfortunes had
happened ! First, a bridge had broken through with the
wagon's weight ; next the dissel-boom had smashed,
then the treck-tow ; but, worse than all, the oxen had
ultimately turned rusty, and refused to pull.

There and then I wished to go back, to see whether
I could prevent any further casualties, but he insisted
that we should both return to Howick, for the
wagon would be there to-morrow, as he had made
arrangements for a regular teamster to tow it up the
town hill.

But on the morrow no wagon came, no message,
no nothing ; so I took the big horse — a most footless,
dangerous brute — and turned back once more to Maritz-
burg. How it poured till I reached my destination
I never shall forget, and Heed Spruit was flooded
almost to my horse's withers ; still I was determined
to get to the wagon if in human power to do so.

At one o'clock I reached it : inside Holly was
drunk, incapably drunk, the cattle scattered all over
the place, the poor boys he had hired without food, the
dissel-boom unmended, and worst, though not least, the
Basuto pony left in his charge broken-kneed, the skin
off its hips, and cut in several places over the head.

This was too much to stand : the cup of my misery
was too full ; so that we might henceforward be sub-
jected to no more misfortunes produced by his careless-
ness, the delinquent must feel my wrath.

The last I saw of the cause of all this misery was a
crestfallen and very much in his own idea injured man,
on foot, tramping it to town, not whistling or singing
" the Eed, White, and Blue."

54 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

The cattle were then sent for. When they arrived,
the leaders, the most valuable animals of the whole
team, had been lost or stolen. In England they
probably would have been found ; in Natal, seldom ; not
that the people are less honest, but that the country,
from its rolling formation, is so admirably suited for
concealing them.

Decision and action were the only things that now
could save us, and promptly I acted. A dissel-boom
was made, the treck-tow mended, and, after hours of
labour, I induced Mr. Zeiderberg to bring one of his
strongest teams of treck-oxen, place my beasts in the
yoke with them, so as to have fourteen couple before
the load, and thus, in spite of wind and weather, reach
Howick to-morrow. That night I laboured as I never
did before ; the rain descended in torrents, and the red
clayey soil filled up the wheels from hub to tire, making
them solid. Again and again we halted from sheer
exhaustion, or with the knowledge that the cattle were
fairly worn-out. An hour past midnight we reached
the summit, and outspanned amid a perfect war of
elements. Sleep none of us could; the soil was a quag-
mire, and no fire could be kept lighted. Soon after
break of day the cattle were again put in the yoke.
Mr. Zeiderberg and self had some grog and a biscuit,
the boys bread, and we managed at much risk and
no ordinary amount of trouble to ford Eeed Spruit.
Here we again outspanned, and breakfasted. At half-
past two in the day the wagon was at Howick. We
were all worn-out, even the cattle ; but plenty of food
and rest had done much to restore us to our accustomed
spirits and strength before evening. For this service
we paid Mr. Zeiderberg three pounds; he drove the

A FEAT OF HORSEMANSHIP. 55

whole time himself, and proved well what a determined
man can do under adverse circumstances. As to me, I
was of little use. I was quite inexperienced in such
modes of travelling, but I learned more that night than
ever I expected to in the art of bullock-driving.

While at Eeed Spruit an oriby antelope crossed
the path. All the dogs started in pursuit. Zeiderberg
jumped on his horse, and we both followed. The
ground appeared fair enough for galloping, so I tried
the chestnut's speed, which proved that he could go.
When some way ahead, and nearing the buck, I heard a
voice call out to me to stop. This I disregarded, and
immediately after my careless mount put his fore-feet
into an ant-bear hole, and floundered on his head.
Fortunately, I did not go farther than the ears, so
managed to regain the saddle, this exploit bringing me
a cheer from four or five passengers on a post-cart that
happened to be passing at the time close to the scene of
my discomfiture.

CHAPTER VII.

SAULTED HORSES YOKE-OXEN MY ATTENDANTS.

Horse-Sickness — Where found— Season of the Epidemic — Its Racial Effects—
Symptoms — Value of Saulted Horses— Death of a Horse from this Disease
— Suggested Remedies — Lung-Sickness — Proposed Cures — Leading Oxen —
Hints for the Proper Care of Oxen — Dental Surgeon, pro tern. — I extract the
wrong Tooth — Difficulties about my Attendants— Suspicious Cattle-dealers —
Their Little Grame— Caution to Travellers— How Missionaries get on —
Umganey — Jim — Imp— The Interpreter's Speech— A Secret Benefactor.

I HAVE alluded in the previous chapter to salted — or,
more correctly, saulted — horses ; and as those unac-
quainted with African travel may be ignorant of its
meaning, the expression so frequently occurring, I will
endeavour to give an explanation of it.

North of the Vaal river, particularly on the banks
of the Limpopo and in many of the regions beyond,
horse-sickness prevails to a frightful extent. I have
known one hundred horses from the Free State driven
to Bamanwatto, with the hope that five or six would
" sault," but all died. The consequence of this is, that
a horse worth about six pounds in the Free State will
fetch from a hundred to a hundred and twenty pounds
among the Bechuanas, and a hundred and fifty pounds
in the Matabele country. The season when this
epidemic rages is from December to June ; but, strange
to say, if an animal once gets the disease, and recovers,
it never has it again. A horse is then called "saulted,"
the expression being of Boer origin. I also learned
from Mr. Mackenzie, the missionary at Soshong, that

SAULTED HORSES. 57

the progeny of a saulted stallion and a saulted mare
suffered less, or were less likely to die from the disease,
than animals imported from other regions. Again, if
the foal should have two generations of saulted
ancestors, it will have the complaint in a very miti-
gated form. Instances are occasionally known of horses
not having the sickness the first year, but that gives no
assurance they will not have it the second ; in fact, the
life of no horse that does not sault is safe during the
months already mentioned.

When a horse takes the sickness, or at least shows
indications of it, thirty-six hours will terminate the
matter one way or the other; if the unfortunate
animal is alive after that, experienced persons would
pronounce an opinion, or express a hope, that the
creature was going to sault. When such is the case,
the animal must not be worked for many months,
but must receive superior food, and be blanketed or
housed at night. As a rule, horses that are saulted
are easily known, for their coats stare in large flea-bite
marks, especially about the neck and withers, and on the
flanks. Between the jaw-bones, close up to the windpipe,
there is a large perceptible swelling, the eye loses its
lustre, and the creature evinces a disinclination to violent
exercise. A saulted horse is thus always sluggish and
careless, and must be ridden on a sharp bit and with
severe spurs. What causes horses to be so much valued
in the countries so fatal to them is, that nowadays,
since fire-arms are comparatively common in the interior,
elephants have become so wary and savage, that stalking
them on foot is extremely dangerous and arduous ;
whereas, if you have a good horse, they are easily
overtaken, and their attacks avoided.

58 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

If, with a valuable saulted horse, you kill six or
eight good elephants in a season, and you should lose
ultimately your nag by tsetse, or beast of prey, his
price has been doubly, probably trebly paid. I have
heard persons state that saulted horses were impervious
to injury from fly -bite ; this is an error, and a very mis-
leading one.

I have been at the death of many horses that died
of horse -sickness. The symptoms in each case were the
same : a dull, lustreless eye, with great puffiness over
the pupil ; a staring coat, extreme restlessness, lying
down one moment and getting up the next ; a marked
desire to be in the society of its master, at all events,
close to the wagons; griping, coughing, and ultimately
death ; and in the last struggle — the very last, I may
say — an immense quantity of a white frothy substance
comes from either nostril, covering the ground in front
of the mouth for the distance of one and sometimes
two feet. The pain the poor creatures suffer while ill
with this epidemic is fearful, and their groans can be
heard for several hundred yards, if the atmosphere be
still. I do not profess to a knowledge of anatomy, but
in all carcases that I have opened, the entire liver, lungs,
and heart denoted acute inflammation, while the last
organ was soft and flabby.

Many, and myself among the number, cannot help
thinking that this disease is caused by some vegetable
matter, not procurable at other seasons of the year.
Mr. Thomson, of the Backwan, concurred with me,
while Mr. Mackenzie and Mr. Hepburn thought differ-
ently. Innoculation has been recommended, but, I fear,
not sufficiently adopted. Mr. Hobson, a very large and
successful breeder in the Eastern Province of the colony,

HORSE-SICKNESS AND LUNG- SICKNESS. 59

had many discussions with me on the subject, and ex-
pressed great faith in it. Horse -sickness is known in
other parts of the country than those mentioned by me,
but not with equal virulence.

The lung-sickness is another disease that prevails
in these elevated table-lands : it is among oxen what
horse-sickness is among horses, and I am inclined to
believe is equally unknown as to cause. In lung-
sickness innoculation, I am aware, is largely practised,
while others laugh to scorn that treatment. I have
seen many drench their calves with a decoction of the
virus. My stay in the country was not long enough
to allow of my ascertaining results, but I have no faith
that such an antidote can be beneficial.

Thus, in purchasing cattle up the country, either
horses or oxen, it is customary to obtain a guarantee that
a horse is saulted, or an ox over the lung-sickness.
With such a guarantee, if either should die within a
year from the complaints named, the sum paid can be
recovered at court of law ; but the word of black men
will not be received, only that of white witnesses — no
easy matter to obtain beyond the pale of civilisation.
But now that the Transvaal is annexed to the British
Empire, that law may possibly be altered.

In alluding to the loss of my leading oxen, I
characterised them as the most valuable. This is not
a form of speech, but a fact, and I will point out how
it is so. When a number of young oxen "are going to
be broken to the yoke, their places are allotted them
according to the opinion the " herd " has of each beast,
and a Kaffir or Hottentot who has once had his atten-
tion called to an ox never forgets it, or any peculiarity
of habit that may distinguish it. In this respect the

60 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

Boer is very nearly as skilful. Those that are selected
for leaders — bell cattle — are the most active, most
intelligent, and at the same time the most mischievous,
their success in villainy being the result of intelligence.
Watch wagons outspan, and see, as soon as all are loose,
if the water be distant, who takes the lead to guide
them to it — the leader probably, or possibly an after-ox.
The reason why an after-ox should do this is that he
in all likelihood was a leader till lately, and only got
placed next the dissel-boom because age had increased
his weight, strength, and experience. Oxen that have
worked much together have a great dislike to their
places being altered at the treck-tow, and a good driver,
knowing this, punishes refractory beasts by giving them
a change. Again, all oxen have their names, and know
them as well as a dog does, and should invariably be
addressed by them.

Two more days, a period of almost unceasing rain,
were spent at Ho wick in mending gear, repacking, and
getting ready for a fresh start.

Now that we had got rid of our late companion,
Morris and I had to depend entirely on ourselves, and it
was a capital initiation in the troubles that were before
us. But the constant wet had produced its effect upon
both, he suffering from fever, I from incessant tooth-
ache of the most acute description. At length I could
stand the pain no longer, and although the offending
tooth was a large double one, I borrowed a pair of forceps,
and after a most determined and protracted resistance
extracted the supposed guilty tooth, much to the
astonishment of all who were aware of the operation
I was engaged in ; but as luck would have it, I soon
learned that I had made a mistake.

IN WANT OF A DRIVER. 61

Our attendants, all Zulus, who had without excep-
tion been engaged by Holly, were a most inexperienced
lot, and consequently very unsuited to our work ;
possibly if they had been in the employment of skilful
drivers they might have been licked into shape, but we
were deficient of the necessary ability to do so, therefore
we weeded them, retaining only two, one a f oreloper, and
the other a kind of useful lad, half cook, half body
servant.

If Holly had taken the most simple precaution, or
the advice that had been offered him, he would have
gone to the Government agency, and we should doubt-
less have obtained suitable men, and at proper wages ;
" but a wilful man must have his way," professing, as
he did, that he knew all about Kaffirs — that at sight he
could tell a good one from a bad one — he had engaged
all the worthless scum that were idling about Maritz-
burg, looking Micawber-like for chances to turn up.
Thus we were without a driver — the most important
person of the party. From Howick we sent word in all
directions — to Kaffir kraals and neighbouring villages —
that a driver was required, and that, to a competent
person, large wages would be paid. Still no candidates
presented themselves ; the season was slipping on ; our
horses were eating their heads off at livery, and our
dogs, although well-fed, were ravaging the country far
and wide to gratify their insatiable appetite.

Another feature was, that unknown and suspicious -
looking cattle-dealers were ever unexpectedly arriving at
the hotel, and miraculously disappearing from it ; but I
soon learned the business of these worthies — it was to
prevent our obtaining aid, make Howick the termination
of our African trip, and force us to sell off our posses-

62 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

sions to the highest bidders. Thus many a well-fitted-
out and costly expedition has been ruined before, and
doubtless many a one will be in time to come. When at
Maritzburg, a message was sent me by a Mr. May, to say
that he and friend were almost ready for the road, and as
their wagon was light they would overtake us in a day
or two ; but we never heard of them again. In fact, I
have reason to believe that they broke down almost
before they started. These harpies that here retard the
stranger believe they have a right, conferred on them by
residence in the country, of fitting out every wagon
starting for the interior, so if the traveller does not
buy from them his oxen, engage from them his people,
the only chance they see of bleeding him is to throw
such obstacles in his way as to cause him to be dis-
gusted, and in a fit of spleen throw the whole thing up.

It may very justly be asked how the missionaries,
whose funds are generally very limited, manage to reach
their up-country stations. The answer is simple. In
South Africa the missionary societies are very powerful.
At the sea-ports from whence their emissaries start,
they have droves of well-broken cattle, or know where
to procure them ; have , numerous tried and faithful
drivers and forelopers, so that the young aspirant to
the honour of converting the heathen steps into his
wagon as a gentleman into his carriage. " Amaga,
treck" shouts the driver, crack goes the big whip, and
off they go. I do not mean for a moment to imply that
these good men do not have troubles ; but these do not
occur till they have proceeded far on into the interior.

However, to return. I had resolved that on I would
go, in spite of all the apparently insurmountable diffi-
culties that barred my path; but the delay and worry

"OUR BOYS." 63

had made me nervous and impatient, several times
causing me to fear that a fit pf sickness was impending.

In the meantime I had engaged another boy. He
was the poorest and most miserable Kaffir I had seen,
scarcely possessing a scrap of clothing, while his skin
was of that bluish-grey hue denoting bad health. For a
day he had hovered round our men's flesh-pots ; but
there was evidently no sympathy felt for the outcast.
At length out of charity I gave him some food. Such
a look of gratitude lit up his countenance, and it was a
face which, under other circumstances, would have been
deemed attractive, that I resolved to take him with me,
provided he could give a satisfactory account of himself.
It happened that Mr. C., one of the magistrates, had
come to Ho wick that day to settle some Kaffir dis-
putes, so I got one of his interpreters to interrogate the
starved-looking lad. Poor fellow ! he had come on foot
from several hundred miles up the coast in search of
work, in which he had been unsuccessful ; and as he
was among strangers, he was reduced almost to the
verge of starvation. When informed where I was
going, he said, " Yes, I will follow the Bass to the land
of the Matabele, and back again to Zulu land." The
price of his services was to be fifteen shillings a
month, and food ; if he behaved and made himself useful,
he should have more ; in the meantime he would have
to forelope, Master Jim, who tad hitherto performed
that duty, being promoted to the rank of assistant-driver.

This Jim was a merry, devil-may-care kind of fellow,
always with a grin on his face, a tremendous feeder, and
a great lover of tobacco. To see him smoke was a treat,
for he could blow a cloud twice as big as any other man
I know. Our third hand was still the lad that cooked ;

64 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

in age he might have been anything from forty down-
wards, stood about five feet nothing, with a shockingly
ugly face. To this last circumstance he may attribute
the name he received, namely, Imp. From the first I
noted that the poor wanderer, whom I christened
Umganey, after the neighbouring falls, was far from
well received by his future companions ; so, having the
interpreter to assist me, I determined there and then to
put a stop to any attempt to treat him unkindly. The
interpreter made them a powerful speech, reminded Jim
and Imp that they belonged to Maritzburg, and would
be punished on their return if they misbehaved; and
wound up by assuring them, that in the Boer's country
their only safety was in sticking to their master, and
agreeing among themselves.

As a treat, each received a couple of inches of Boer
tobacco : from that moment Umganey was as good as
the best man among them.

My difficulties I narrated to the good magistrate
with whom I had become acquainted, and I have
ever since been under the impression that, unknown
to me, he used some influence he possessed to enable me
to renew my journey, for that evening I succeeded
in making an arrangement with a resident to treck
the wagon to the next halting-place, about fifteen miles
off, and nearly all up-hill.

CHAPTEE VIII.

BEEAKS-DOWN ON THE ROAD.

Treck-tow Smashed — Treachery — For 'Hire — Reinforcements — On the Move at
Last — Another Delay — On the Road again— A Long Three-miles Ride —
Difficulties of Getting to the Game — Hints — Sunday Peace — Mine Host —
A Canny Scot — Mr. Currie comes to Terms — Our New Boy — Everything
going right now — The Driver's Villainy — I give him a Thrashing — Skim-
mel-pin Broken — The Wagon seemingly a Wreck — Vexation of Spirit —
Morris starts to Buy a New Skimmel-pin — Unloading the Wagon — Boers to
the Rescue — A Diplomatic Palaver — Coffee and Rum — The Boers' Family
Love — More Soupje — Help Purchased — Out of Trouble.

ALL about the comfortable, clean hotel was life and
bustle at an early hour, and morning broke bright and
promising. The cattle were placed in the yoke, the
whip cracked, and smash went the treck-tow ; but there
was a blacksmith's shop near, and in an hour the defect
was repaired. Again the whip produces its gun-like
report ; the driver shouts out " Treck" and smash again
goes the treck-tow. Well, this was annoying ; it would
probably cause the loss of another hour; but that cannot
be helped.

Morris says nothing, but he looks unutterably dis-
gusted, and rides off to the hotel. I accompany the
chain to the blacksmith's to see it properly welded.
While waiting for this to be performed, I have the
pleasure of learning that the treck-tow must have been
tampered with. " Who could have been such a villain? "
" Well," replied my informant, "it is not likely that
this chain, which brought you up the Town Hill at
F

66 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

Maritzburg, would not be able now to draw the wagon
on the flat." I required no further convincing.

Once more we are ready to make another effort ;
the magic cry is given ; but my oxen refuse to pull.
Then commence a series of tortures — double -thonging
those that lie down, biting and screwing the tails of
those that will not get up. Oh, it made my heart sick !
yet what could I do but stand by and witness the
handsome cattle thus cruelly treated ? Several times I
felt disposed to remonstrate with the driver, but I
dared not; for well I knew he would have thrown down
his whip, and told me, "as I did not like his ways,
to drive myself."

About this time I was getting savage ; my friend
had long retired to the quiet of the hotel ; and I felt
another crisis had been reached that required prompt
and decisive action. Thus I at once arranged with
the driver for the services of his cattle to assist mine.
They had to be sent for, as they were at pasture on the
hills ; in an hour the " herd " brought them up — eight
powerful, well-broken, experienced oxen. Soon it was
arranged that he would supply the leaders, and the yoke
immediately behind them, also the after-oxen and the
yoke in front of them, while four pair of our brutes
filled up the intermediate space.

By competent persons it takes but a short space of
time to yoke cattle — ten minutes at the utmost. Time
was up : each beast stood in its place ; my staff of men
ready to assist ; the dogs were driven out from under
the wagon ; when again the whip sounded ; the wheels
creaked, revolved, and, thank God ! we were again
under way. In a delirium of joy, I shouted my hardest,
mounted my horse, and ordered Imp to go for Morris.

IN AN ANT-BEAR HOLE. 67

Nearly a quarter of a mile was traversed ; my friend
had joined me, his face bore a more satisfied expression,
when, lo ! as we turned off the velt on to the road—
for no one is allowed to outspan on it — one of the after-
oxen chose to be disobedient, and not turn wide enough
to avoid an ant-bear hole, into which a forewheel went,
up to the hub.

I took off my hat, wiped the perspiration off my
face, and said nothing ; but I felt suck agony. The
day was now too far spent to do more labour ; so, un-
willingly, I returned to the hotel, to enjoy a well-
earned meal, contemplate my misfortunes, and try and
devise how a repetition of them was to be avoided on
the morrow.

With the first glimpse of the sun in the east I was
up; I and the boys long toiled with pickaxe and
shovel ; but the confounded hole was so deep that hours
were required to make a cutting of the requisite grade.
By eight a.m. the driver had arrived ; ominously he
shook his head, and informed me, to my disgust, that
our labour was lost, that the screw-jack must be put
under the axle of the wagon, the wheel thus gradually
raised, and the hole underneath the tire carefully filled
in. By noon this was done ; but the day was too
hot then to start. At three the cattle were yoked
in the same order as in our last effort ; but at the first
endeavour to move on, the new earth sank down
under the wheel, leaving it buried as if in a deep rut.
When in this position the team for some time
struggled most manfully, but after a time turned
rusty, and refused to make further exertion.

The expert and even non- driving readers may say,
" Why on earth did you not unload ? " Well, for this
F 2

68 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

reason, that our cargo, to reduce the number of packages,
was divided into boxes containing from five to six
hundred pounds' weight ; thus to get them out of the
wagon was no easy matter, but to reload was a question
we scarcely liked even to contemplate.

I have spoken of a gentleman employed in surveying
the roads. During my stay at Ho wick, I found him a
good, kind-hearted fellow, who sympathised with me
in my troubles ; now of his own free will and accord
he brought me his cattle and people. Thus fresh forces
were added to our strength; and at the first struggle
the unfortunate wagon was drawn on to the road, and
three hours afterwards found us at the greatest elevation
of this ridge, slowly moving forward 'mid drenching
rain, a gale of wind in our teeth, and darkness closing
on the scene.

An hour afterwards a halt was called — time indeed,
for I could scarcely see my horse's head. No food
could possibly be cooked, and it was a dreadful night to
sleep out on the open ; yet no other alternative appeared
to present itself. However, the driver soon thought
differently : at first he had been disposed to yield to
circumstances; but afterwards found even his hardy
constitution was being too much tried, so proposed that
we should ride on to Currie's Hotel, which he believed
to be only three miles from our present position.

It took us longer time to ride those three miles
than I ever remembered to have previously required
to accomplish such a distance ; but how we did
it at all to this moment appears to me inexplicable.
The road was simply villainous, bordered on either side
by precipitous ravines or flooded water-courses ; while the
storm howled through the impenetrable darkness. Eor

HINTS TO FUTURE TRAVELLERS. 69

some distance we had to call to each other, so as not to
get separated.

To the pony's eyes I trusted more than to my own ;
and I had no reason to regret placing in the little pet
so much confidence. At half-past twelve we arrived
at our destination, as sorry-looking a lot as even an
African sun occasionally looks at. We had the luck
to get beds and something to eat — " something " best
expresses what it was.

To get to the game, not to kill it, is the difficulty in
this land ; therefore, to those who wish to rival that
greatest of hunters, Grordon Gumming, the early part of
this book is valuable ; and, moreover, I do wish all to
believe that in what I have said of the difficulties we
had to contend with there is not one word of exaggera-
tion, nor has aught been set down in malice. In fact,
I have the honesty to confess that to myself is due
much of the disagreeables that happened; for, instead
of one, we should have had two wagons, and thus had
our load divided. Moreover, in case of getting stuck in
ruts or holes, the two yoke of cattle can be put to the
unlucky conveyance.

We have all to learn, and it is satisfactory to know
that, however grievous it may be at the time to suffer
worry and inconvenience, the experience teaches us
how in future to act so as to prevent their recurrence.
To drive oxen well is no rapidly-attained accomplish-
ment ; to drive them even moderately well is only learned
by attention and time ; thus there are few men who
go to the Cape after they have attained mature years who
ever attempt to do so, unless in cases of rare necessity.

Next morning (Sunday), we did not leave our beds
till late. When we did so, we found on going forth

70 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

that the peace of the Sunday rested on everything: the
cattle lay on the velt across the road in pasture a foot
high, while several horses stood under the shelter of
neighbouring trees, solely occupied with switching the
flies off their flanks. The only noisy things possessed
of animal life that I observed, were the white -collared
ravens. At home I have noted a like behaviour of our
crows on the day of rest.

The "gudeman" was in his Sunday best, and regretted
to me that he had not been able to go to preaching
from the number of strangers at his house. He was a
countryman (Scotch), and an old mounted police corps
man : here were two bonds of sympathy ; surely he
would aid me, who came from his native land, and had
been a member of the same profession. I felt reassured
and confident that my perseverance was about to meet
with its reward.

Saddling my own nag — for who could expect a groom
to be found on this day ? — I returned to the wagon. On
reaching it, I saw the boys had made everything snug,
while the bright fires at which they were cooking
their meal gave an air of home and comfort to the
surroundings.

However, Imp was absent. He had retraced our
march of yesterday to endeavour to find one of the dogs
which had been missed shortly after we had left. The
animal had followed us ; but it looked like zeal, so I
commended the boy's conduct. At two we started, and,
without mishap, reached Currie's. As I followed that
road, the one we had ridden during the darkness of the
blackest night imaginable, the more and more I wondered
that any of our party escaped being dashed to pieces.

As the day was young, and light would last till

MR. CURRIE TRYING IT ON. 71

eight, it was resolved to treck farther ; but as the
Howick cattle had to return, I endeavoured to make a
bargain with our host for the use of some of his oxen
and a driver till we reached Mooi Eiver. Because it
was Sunday our landlord placed all kinds of objections
in the way of my scheme ; first the difficulty of
finding his cattle, and latterly of discovering a driver
— in fact, it was a job "he did na like. Na, na,
man; stop where you are." But seeing that I was
resolved not to be counselled, he began to think what
the job was worth, and presently asked ten pounds, paid
down. The exorbitance of the demand took away my
breath ; so I left this good, good man, lamenting he
hadn't asked less.

In went my cattle ; Jim took the whip and Umganey
foreloped. The road was down-hill; and, to my own
surprise, the team walked off with the load in fine style.
We had thus favourably progressed about a mile, when
Mr. Currie followed us up, informed us that some stiff
hills were in front, and that he feared we could not get
over them ; therefore, for a consideration of five pounds,
he would on this occasion break his rule, and send his
team and driver to help us. Very soon three pair of
worthless old cattle, accompanied by a saucy driver,
joined us. All were put to the wagon, and again we
moved forward.

The tide spoken of in the affairs of man had evi-
dently come ; my men looked pleased, the horses felt
willing, and the pack of dogs scattered out and hunted
on both sides of the road. This was encouraging ; for
it was the only respite we had from worry and annoy-
ance. Now, for the first time, it looked as if success
were not to be entirely refused us.

72 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

At Maritzburg an acquaintance had given us an old
pointer bitch ; she could go, and seemed never to tire
at hunting, but apparently, from her conduct, had not
the slightest idea of what standing game was, for quail
after quail was flushed and chased, and flushed again.
This we saw and laughed at — it was game, veritable,
undisputed game, and no mistake — and we both
chuckled when we thought of the quantity of shot we
had in the wagon, and other implements intended for
the destruction of the innocents.

In taking an occasional survey of the cattle, and how
they performed, I could not help noting how carefully
and assiduously Umganey, the new boy, did his work as
f oreloper, for it is not light labour, and requires experience
and knowledge. Of course there is as much difference
in leaders to a yoke of cattle as in horses : the first
sometimes require almost to be hauled along ; others
step out so as to keep those behind them at their places,
and thus a taut treck-tow is obtained. If I mistake
not, I thought that evening that this new attache would
yet prove the best servant I had got. Careless, thought-
less Jim, when things are going on all right, is
a happy dog, an adept at turning somersaults and
making jokes, and this evening he was in his best form,
for he had nothing to do but amuse himself and others.

As the sun was setting, both Morris and self pulled
our horses back so as to get the wagon in front and have
a confidential talk about the troubles we had encoun-
tered, and lay happy plans for the future ; so we had
progressed for a mile or two, when he called my atten-
tion to the fact that the driver had put on the brake as
the wagon went up-hill. Surely this could not be ; but,
dismounting, I examined and found that it was a fact,

IN ANOTHER ANT-BEAR HOLE. 73

so I quietly undid it and said nothing, although I
suspected much.

The sun must have been down an hour when we
outspanned on a high table-land, Providence blessing us
with a bright, calm night. We both slept soundly, and
had a bath, cup of coffee, and were ready for the road
by daybreak, hoping to put at least ten miles behind us
before it became warm enough for the oxen to feed,
which they will not do while the dew is on the grass.

Soon the cattle were in the yoke, and we started, nor
had we progressed a hundred yards, or yet re-entered
the road, when the ruffianly driver drove us bang
straight into a large ant-bear hole. This he could not
have done on the road, for there they do not exist ;
so as he was unable to balk the cattle on ascending the
hills by putting the brake on, he resolved to bring us
to a halt in this way. So effectually had the wretch
carried out his plans that the fore- wheel on the
nigh side was nearly out of sight, the axle resting
on the earth, the sole cause that it had not gone
in deeper; while the box of the wagon was lifted
forward over the crutch that kept it in its place.
I had neither Zeiderberg with me nor that good
man of Howick, so on my shoulders alone depended our
becoming extricated, and of all our former catastrophes
this looked far the worse. Pickaxes and shovels were
the order of the day ; but, would you believe it, the
cause of our difficulty refused to assist ? I had no
doubt that it was done intentionally, so I made up my
mind that, in spite of magistrates and penalties for
assault, I would make the offender work. So I offered
him a shovel, and pointed to the hole : no, he would not
take it.

74 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

Morris I knew was good for two of them, and
possessed of all the necessary pluck ; in fact, I think he
would have enjoyed the exercise; and I thought my-
self fit to fight the remainder, that is, if our three
boys espoused the cause of the offender. So again I
tendered him the shovel ; in broken English he
coolly informed me that it was not his business,
and that he would not do it. At this I swooped
upon him, got him down, and pommelled him to my
heart's content. Complainingly and sulkily after his
punishment he went to work ; the hardest parts of
the task I made him perform, but I spared not myself
nor any of my people, for Imp had just returned,
and Umganey was not required to herd the cattle, as no
cultivation or habitation was in sight.

An hour's labour enabled me to form a solid base
outside the hub for the screw-jack to work on, and that
wonderful and powerful instrument was brought into
play. Inch by inch the wheel was raised, stones and earth
were forced in beneath the tire, till the driver announced
that he thought the cattle could now draw the wagon
out. At the second or third effort the fore part of the
conveyance came away, severed from the body and hind
wheels, for the skimmel-pin had broken, and everything
looked a wreck.

I believe the driver would have liked to bolt at this
crisis. He looked at me and the saddled horse ; in the
former he did not admire the expression, and in the
latter recognised that there was sufficient fleetness of
limb to overtake him, and proved by remaining that he
was not such a fool as to run such risks. I certainly
expected him to go, and I was equally resolved to
ride him down, if determination and sharp spurs could

UNLOADING THE WAGON. 75

do it. It is better that such a chase did not take
place, for under excitement even the best and most
long-enduring may do, in the might of their wrath
and strength, what may cause regrets for many years to
come, possibly even for life. How hard it is to bear
the insolence of an employe, the wilful destruction of
our property, and the almost total ruin of the plans
we had made, and come thousands of miles to execute,
I know ; and, further, to see the large amount of money
invested in an anticipated and longed-for pleasure thrown
to the dogs, is very trying. But it is best, where law
exists, never to take it into your own hands, and after
all this blackguard was only a tool in the service of
others, although doubtless a willing one.

After breakfast, for we had not yet eaten, Morris, at
my request, took the big horse and started for Mooi
Eiver (Natal), where it was known that a blacksmith
resided, to get a new skimmel-pm, and, if in his power,
to obtain assistance, and to be as quick as it was possible
for the ugly stumbling brute to carry him — the distance
both ways to be traversed being probably thirteen or
fourteen miles, he would be with me soon after mid-
day. I took off my coat and waistcoat, and earnestly
went to work to unload the wagon, for well I knew that
the box could never be put in its place unless every
article in the fore part was removed. Independently of
this, the floor in front of the box must be cleared to
allow the new pin to be placed in its proper position.

Unremittingly we worked for about two hours, and
by that time had unloaded the greater portion of the
cargo ; still several of the heaviest boxes remained to
be removed, and the sun was powerful indeed. My
clothes were torn, my body bathed in perspiration, and

76 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

every nail of my fingers broken, and my hands blistered.
This was my state when I called on all to cease
their labour for a while. Chocolate was produced, in
which all participated, and to this I added a small
supply of tobacco.

I felt that I had earned this rest, possibly never in
my life more so, and in proportion enjoyed it. But
what is that I hear ? the creaking of badly-greased
wheels ? Yes : about a mile off three wagons trecking
towards me come in sight. Truly grateful I felt, for
could any one, however callous, refuse to afford me
assistance ?

Refilling my pipe, I took my seat on the bank
that margined the road, and patiently, no, impatiently,
waited their approach. Bullocks travel slowly — these
appeared scarcely to crawl along ; fully half an hour
passed before the leading one was abreast of me. I
hailed its driver, and he halted, but to my disgust
he was a Boer who spoke not a word of English ;
nevertheless I pointed to our wagon, and poured out
a voluble history of my troubles : then he went and
got his gun, and there stood with it in his hand. This
move I could not understand. Soon he was joined by
his companions, one of whom spoke a few words of my
language; together ' we went and inspected the wreck,
but when I appealed for aid they significantly shook
their heads.

I had heard that the Boer was sociable and loved
coffee. I ordered the latter to be made, and tendered
each a cup, and an unlimited quantity of sugar : good
sign — they accepted my hospitality. The one who
spoke a little English, William by name, became more
garrulous, and an air of bonne camaraderie began to

SUCCESSFUL DIPLOMACY. 77

pervade the assembly. Oh, how diplomatic we be-
come when absolutely necessary — when we find that our
object is to be accomplished by no other means !
After coffee each was furnished with a double soupje
of rum about twenty above proof. They were ex-
cellent fellows, and the spokesman asked me in the
name of the others for my father and mother, espe-
cially their ages, how my frow was, and the number
of kinderkins (children) I was parent of.

I knew that the Boers were great lovers of children,
and admired large families, so I was guilty of the decep-
tion of telling them twenty.

Another little soupje — they were such good men —
they must take it, it was pure and unadulterated ; and
they complied. Again the assistance was alluded to,
still there was hesitation, so I hastened to the last in-
telligible resource, gold, and held up between my fore-
finger and thumb a sovereign. It worked like a charm,
the old skimmel-pin was extracted, the orifice in which
it lodged was partially filled with gravel, so as to make
a part of the broken pin answer temporarily, the bed of
the wagon replaced in its proper position, and the front
wheels removed on to firm ground. Then their Kaffirs
were called up, the loading commenced with vigour,
all assisted, I myself working as if life and death
depended on the expedition with which it was accom-
plished ; and to my unutterable joy I managed, after
another soupje^ to get two of my heaviest cases stowed
upon their wagons.

The cattle were then put in the yoke, and, to his
surprise, I met Morris just as he was leaving Mooi Eiver
with a new skimmel-pin.

CHAPTER IX.

OUR BOER ASSISTANTS AN UNEXPECTED MEETING.

Pow-wow with the Boers— A Bargain struck — The Intimidation Game — The
Cattle-dealer Checkmated— At a Standstill— In Karkloof Valley— A Meet-
ing of Boers — Propitiatory Beverage — The sort of Men they were — The
Boer — More Outlay — My After-Oxen, Ackerman and Brightman — Morris
ill — In my hands — An Unexpected Pleasure — Jack Bennett — More Friends
— Merry-making — Holly to the fore again — A Magnificent Midnight
Scene — Bontebuck — Camp struck and Friends part.

UNDER the wall of the little church at Mooi Eiver
we outspanned for a couple of hours, and had a grand
pow-wow with the Boers. To further open their hearts
and win their favour to what I was about to propose,
a really good dinner, cooked by myself, was provided,
and we all sat down and discussed it together.
William, the one who had a smattering of English,
discovered that he had more words in his vocabulary
than he gave himself credit for — in fact, quite sufficient
to render himself intelligible. Before the meal was
finished, he confessed himself to be the son of a British
deserter, his mother being Dutch.

Well, we had a long confab, and our treatment had
the effect of convincing them that we wished to deal
with them fairly — thus soon an opportunity occurred for
me to broach the subject so necessary to our success ; in
fact, I felt convinced that the failure or the reverse of
our expedition depended on my diplomacy and powers
of eloquence on the present occasion.

A BARGAIN STRUCK WITH THE BOERS. 79

What I had to propose was this : that as they were
not very heavily loaded, they should take some more
of our baggage, thus lightening our load by, say one
ton; break up our team, taking the worthless members
into theirs, and supplying us in their place with an equal
number of their tried old cattle ; also that they should
remain with us till we reached Potschefstrom, their des-
tination, and of course assist us in all difficulties, and
allow William to drive for us (they had a spare Kaffir
driver) ; we on the other hand undertaking to feed him,
and on arrival at the journey's end to pay them fifteen
pounds sterling for their services. Long and earnest
was our interview. Again and again they retired to
consult; at least a dozen times the whole agreement
had to be repeated and explained, when, to the intense
satisfaction of Morris and myself, the bargain was
concluded. A resume, to simplify the matter to the
reader, places it thus — for fifteen pounds the most un-
ruly of our cattle were to be replaced by good ones, these
Boers were to stand by us through all difficulties, and
we were to be supplied with a driver for the distance
of nearly four hundred miles. Looking at it from all
points, the arrangement was certainly in our favour.

I have stated that the bargain was concluded, but a
difficulty arose in an unexpected quarter that nearly
undid the entire arrangement. It was in this way.

To show these Boers a little attention, and further
to make them feel that we wished to consider and treat
them as equals, Morris and I asked them down to the
hotel to drink a glass of their favourite Hollands gin.
Soon after we had entered the public room and been
served, mysteriously one after another of our new
acquaintances was called out, and upon his return

80 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

looked crest-fallen. Again the principal Dutchman
was called out; suspecting that all was not right,
I followed him in a second or two, and discovered
that my surmises were correct, for in the yard, in
the rear of the hotel, a young man, aged about eight-
and-twenty, was threatening him. In a moment I
was between them, gave the blackguard in the plainest
language to understand that I knew what his motives
were, and carried the Boer back with me.

When we returned to the wagons, I saw that the
intimidation had produced its effect; that the Boers
were arrant cowards was apparent, and fear was acting
powerfully upon them. Some more ardent spirits loosed
William's tongue, and he distinctly told me that the
Englishmen in the village — more properly hamlet — had
threatened to beat them without mercy if they helped
us. As I knew that a cattle-dealer who had offered
at Maritzburg to supply me with oxen at a most
exorbitant price lived here, I could have no doubt that
he spoke the truth. However, we assured them that we
were well armed, and would stick to them through
thick and thin ; that they had but to drive, and we
would do the fighting ; and that, mounted on our horses,
we would not be away from them for a moment if
danger threatened.

The cattle at length were yoked, all was ready for
the start. I buckled on my revolver, and took my rifle;
my friend carried his ; and, 'mid some groans and hoots
from unseen persons, the Boers in front, our wagon
bringing up the rear, we descended the incline, crossed
the river on the neat little suspension bridge, and com-
menced the ascent of the opposite hills.

These hills were very steep — wagon after wagon

A VALLEY OF DRY BONES. 81

toiled painfully up ; our enemies were being left farther
and farther behind, when, as if we were haunted by
some evil genius, our wagon came to a standstill, nor
could all our efforts move it. The Boers trecked on,
but promised, as soon as they got to the summit, to send
us back aid. Hour after hour passed, still no signs
of assistance arrived ; the mosquitoes were in myriads.
Neither Morris nor I dismounted, but waited and
prayed for daybreak and assistance; the utter solitude
of the long, long trying night being only broken by
an occasional drunken yell from our outwitted enemies,
and a fusillade of fireworks which they thought proper
to let off a few minutes before it broke day.

As soon as the light was sufficiently good, my friend
took upon himself the onerous post of guard, and I
hurried forward after the Boers, a suspicion having
arisen in my mind that, as William had gone with his
comrades, possibly they might contemplate deserting us.
But I did them injustice. Some miles forward I met
the irrepressible William, with three extra yokes of
cattle, coming down the hill to our relief at the double.
By half-past eleven we were on the plateau, and out-
spanned, all thoroughly tired with our labour, but
satisfied with the result it had produced.

Next day we passed over the lovely and rugged
valley of Karkloof. Here, although I did not see them,
are some pretty villas, belonging to the wealthy class of
Maritzburg and Durban. The grade of ascent on the
north side of the valley is very long and fearfully steep ;
the skeletons of numerous bullocks on both sides of the
road attesting how hard it is on draft cattle, while in-
numerable vultures sail overhead, at immense altitudes,
doubtless earnestly looking out for accidents ; however,
G

82 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

we reached the top at ten a.m., where we found the
Summit Tavern. Here we all had some refreshments,
served by a civil, tidy young Scotchwoman, wife of the
proprietor ; and, further, we purchased a lot of scones,
for present and future consumption.

Half an hour afterwards we outspanned in a large,
well-watered valley, abundantly supplied with grass,
among about thirty Boers' wagons. Long before our
dinner was cooked, quite a number of these people
visited us ; our ways, and particularly our ablutions,
appearing to create great astonishment among them.
A quantity of coffee was made, and each presented
with a cup. Of this beverage they all are exceed-
ingly fond, and use with it immense quantities of sugar.
Our courtesy doubtlessly put them on their good be-
haviour.

William informed me that we must get two good
heavy after-oxen, that if not we should have great
trouble in getting over the Drackenberg, in fact, probably
with our weak team not accomplish it, and that now
was our chance ; for among the numerous Dutchmen
assembled here there must be some good beasts to be
obtained. Since we had landed in Natal our purse had
never been out of our hands, and we earnestly hoped that
now rest was in store for it. Still, if two after-oxen must
be had, there was no help for it, so, at least if any
beasts worth having could be obtained, they had better
be sent for.

The specimens of the Boers that I saw here were
very prepossessing in appearance — stalwart, fair men —
often handsome in features, but invariably dirty, rude
in manner — possibly resulting from moroseness — how-
ever, evincing the most earnest willingness to eat and

A MISCHIEF-LOVING OLD OX. 83

drink at our expense whenever occasion offered. Their
curiosity also appears unbounded. They want to know
where you have come from, where you are going, your
purpose, the amount of money you possess, whether
you have a good wife, and the age and sex of all your
children, not unfrequently terminating with a desire to
learn the price you paid for each individual part of your
dress.

"When we finished breakfast, William came with the
news that two splendid after-oxen were waiting for our
inspection ; as I really did not then consider myself a
good judge, and. Morris relied on me, all purchases we
made were very hazardous. I thought to get William's
advice, but in this I was deceived ; for the fulsomeness
of his praises made me at once consider that he was in
the interests of the vendor. Still, he was to drive the
beasts for over three hundred miles, and if they could
not or would not do the labour he required of them, he
would most assuredly be a fool to his own interests to
recommend bad cattle.

Two bullocks which I on this occasion purchased
were with me for a long time, and therefore they de-
serve a word of description. First came Ackerman,
a nigh after-ox, of good outline, but old — which fact
I did not know then — capable of great power when
he chose to exert it, but that, I am sorry to say,
he did rarely ; in expression he looked at peace with
all the world, still never lost a chance to kick any one
who carelessly approached him, and was ever prime
ringleader in all mischief. The other was Brightman ;
he was willing, but lacked power, good-tempered, in-
telligent, and desirous of pleasing, The former was
mouse-coloured; the latter, red-and- white. After due

G2

84 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

haggling and fault-finding, they became our property at
the exorbitant sum of thirteen pounds ten shillings each.

All past troubles are nothing to what I have to suffer
to-day. My now dear friend and companion, Morris,
tells me that he feels far from well. Very feverish
he certainly is with a very furred tongue. Returning,
when proposed, he will not hear of; so I insist that he
shall keep out of the sun, and avoid the night air ; ride
in the wagon as much as possible; put his feet
in mustard and water before retiring to rest; finally,
before sleeping, have a couple of fever-pills, specially
prepared by a skilled physician for this climate. There
was a slight tendency to kick against my authority,
but that was natural enough; however, like a good
subaltern, he submitted. I have little doubt that it is
one of those fever attacks prevalent in all hot climates,
precipitated by the vexations and annoyances he had
suffered, combined with the exposure occasioned by his
night in the saddle on the low-lying grounds that
bordered the Mooi Eiver. The swarms of mosquitoes
that pestered us there, and him in particular, would
inflame any one's blood, and, where there was a pre-
disposition, assist much in producing strong febrile
tendencies.

My consolation is that now our men have got into
very tolerable working order; consequently, there is
little enough for me to do, so I shall turn cook and
nurse by turns, and see that he has an abundance of
good soup, with rice or barley as the .vegetable adjunct
to it. Still, with resolves to do all that can be done for
my comrade's comfort, I feel a shudder of awe, in case
anything should happen. Shall I go on, or turn back ?
Before deciding, I shall wait for the morrow.

"DON'T YOU KNOW ME, GILLMORE?" 86

Thank goodness ! Morris is much better, and seems
in excellent spirits. I trust this is not assumed. I
have known persons of pluck play this trick if they
thought their comrades anxious about them. Whether
or not, he ate a good breakfast, and that speaks
volumes.

During the morning treck, I was apprised by one of
the Boers that some person was following us rapidly on
horseback, evidently with the intention of overtaking
us. I did not pay much attention to the circumstance
at the time, but judge of my surprise when, a quarter
of an hour afterwards, a gentleman, accompanied by an
after-rider, came up to me, and held out his hand. For
the life of me, I could not recollect him.

" You don't know me, Gillmore ?"

"No, I do not."

"Well, that is good!"

4 'Do you think so?"

" You don't wish to ' cut ' me ?"

" But I really don't know you."

" Well, if this is not intensely funny !"

" Why don't you tell me your name ?"

" Because the whole thing is so absurd."

"Is it? Well, it had better cease" (and I got
rusty).

" You old donkey ! don't get cross — it's Jack
Bennett."

"My goodness ! But who on earth would have ex-
pected to see you here ? No wonder I did not know
you ! why, you have grown so much hair about your face
that it hides every remnant of your features " (formerly
he shaved a la militaire). " Never mind my not
knowing you ; I am deuced glad to see you. We will

86 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

outspan at the first water, and have as good a meal as
I can produce and cook."

Morris here joined me, and hoth had a capital laugh
at my expense ; which they were perfectly welcome to,
more' particularly as I thought it would raise the latter's
spirits, and thus do him good.

Possibly the reader would like to know who the
gentleman was : there are few who don't know his
father — Sir John Bennett, the well-known watchmaker.
The last time I had seen Jack was three years
before, on a raw autumnal morning, at Ludgate Hill
Station. His cousin and I were bound for the lower
portion of the Chesapeake Bay, to live on oysters,
canvass -back ducks, terrapins, and the numerous good
things that prolific region produces, while he spoke of
a European tour, possibly to extend to Constantinople.

Arriving at Howick two or three days after our
departure, Jack had followed me over a hundred
miles. All along the route he learned of our advance,
and at Mooi River heard me abused to such an extent
that he was nearly coming to blows in my defence.
So we outspanned, and discussed old friends and places
visited together ; it was truly a right pleasant meeting.
As he was not tied for time, after our meal we
travelled forward for our next resting-place, near Bush-
man's Eiver ; but we had not completed half the
journey when another party was reported in pursuit.
We called a halt, to let them come up ; and who should
they prove to be but Mr. Prefer, of the hotel at Maritz-
burg, Captain Gregory, whom Morris and I had enjoyed
many an hour with, and — shades of the departed ! —
Holly. I certainly long thought we had got rid of
him. My comrade and I had congratulated ourselves

A GATHERING OF FRIENDS. 87

time after time on the subject, and now so far on the
way to find ourselves saddled with this Old Man of the
Sea : well, it shall not be — I'll leave him on the velt first !

But hospitality was our first duty ; so at the next
outspanning-place the cattle were released from their
yokes. As grass was abundant, the poor brutes would
be the better for the holiday, and thus all would benefit.
Out of the sail-cloth we made a tent big enough to
shelter a sub-division of infantry. The cooking-pots
were got out, fires lighted, and I doffed my coat and
turned cook once more. Mr. Prefer had in the
goodness of his heart brought an abundance of cham-
pagne, all of which, with the exception of one victim,
was sent down to a neighbouring spring, there to cool
till about to be immolated.

We were all so happy — no, there was one sad one :
poor Holly was dreadfully cut up at his past conduct,
so much so that he could not be induced to join us.
What he had done was of the past, so Morris and I
determined to think no more of it, but to receive him
again into the brotherhood, unless by any means such a
step could be avoided. I feel that no one can blame us ;
for while he had nothing to do we permitted him with-
out interference to act as he liked, but when the first
call had been made upon him — after the great expense we
had gone to on his account — he had betrayed his trust,
and through wilful negligence, or worse, seriously injured
our property and prospects.

Let us change the subject. We enjoyed ourselves
to our hearts' content — to describe the merry-making on
such occasions is tedious — we had enough and to suffice
of all good things, and turned in at an early hour tired
-and anxious to court repose.

88 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

About midnight I stole forth to see that everything
was in order. It was a goodly night : the heavens were
without a cloud — stars innumerable covered its whole
face. Beneath, a mile off, was a clear turbulent stream,
rushing headlong through a rugged rocky kloof, well
covered with stunted timber, while beyond stood out,
solemn and grand, their outline clearly defined against
the distant sky, some of the nearer spurs of the noble
Drackenberg range of mountains. But the foreground
I have said nothing of — its tout ensemble was perfect.
The giant tent, white in the subdued light as that of
Croesus ; the fires with their smouldering heaps of glow-
ing coal ; the bullocks, with their legs beneath them,
quietly and measuredly chewing the cud, fastened by
twos and twos to their yokes ; and near where the Kaffirs
slept, within the radius of the glow coming from their
cooking-place, a dozen horses stood attached by reins to
their pickets. And naught broke the silence : not the
mournful note of the hyaena, not the merry whimpering
laugh of the jackal — only the musical cowbell that
hung from Swartland's neck, and the deep and rapid
bass snore that announced that Holly was in the arms
of Morpheus.

I would not for a very great deal have missed that
scene. I would that others could have seen it, but not
with me, for there are times when we wish to be alone.
Yet I am not quite alone, for as the thought is passing
through my mind, poor Bontebuck, a half-bred grey-
hound, and rapidly becoming a great favourite, put his
cold nose in my hand. Was the dog on foot too to
admire nature ? . or was it only affection for the master
whom already he recognised through little acts of kind-
ness to him? Both, possibly; for there is nothing

HOLLY AGAIN BECOMES ONE OF US. 89

good, nay, noble, among mammalia that I am not quite
willing to accredit to dogs and horses. Of course they
sometimes differ, but less so than men.

After midnight it always gets cold in the highlands
of South Africa ; cold induces sleep, so I turned in once
more, and knew not of the passage of time till the
roseate clouds in the east, and the delicate rays of light
coming from a common centre, and dispersing over the
entire heavens east of the zenith, told me as plainly as
signs can speak that another day to be added to our
allotted term of life had commenced.

After breakfast our party broke up, and Holly is to
remain with us. I opposed it as long as I could, Morris
having nothing to say in the matter ; so I had to listen
to the arguments and entreaties of all. At length,
sorely against my will, I consented.

Camp was struck, the cattle yoked, horses saddled,
and finally came the parting. This was accomplished
not without regrets, and while our late guests returned
to civilisation, we pushed farther north towards Tropical
Africa.

CHAPTER X.

MY FRIEND INVALIDED.

One of the Boers' Wagons comes to Grief — We arrange for a New Wheel — A
Useful Hill— Wilful William— Another Smash— Our Dogs— Mother and
Child— Working like Slaves— No Progress— Off for Help— HiU Cattle in
Africa — Friendly English — They put us to rights — Bushman's River — Acci-
dents to our Horse and Pony — The Superintendent of the Natal Mounted
Police — Morris so 111 that he must Recruit — A Sad Meal — I Part from my
Friend — Holly's Sorrow — Alone — Off for a Hunt — The Natal Partridge —
Quail — The Dogs in Full Cry — Filling a Pipe : the Various Processes,
hurriedly, meditatively, angrily — A Shot at Bush-buck — The Game at Bay
— Bring it Down — A Warning ahout Bush-buck.

OUR treck commenced by descending a steep grade.
One of the wagons belonging to our friends the Boers
was very old, and as it made a sweep round a curve the
brake gave way, and the hind wheel struck a boulder,
consequently several spokes and part of the felloe were
scattered in different directions ; fortunately this stopped
its further progress, or otherwise it would have run into
all the wagons in front of it, and caused destruction
of the most serious nature. On visiting the scene of
the disaster, I found Hendrick sitting by the roadside
consoling himself with his never-extinguished pipe, sur-
rounded by a host of comforters ; for fully ten minutes
" Mein Gott ! " was the only expression I heard any of
them use. At length the wheel was examined, and it
was clear at a glance that nothing could be done to it
that would make it serviceable without the aid of a
wagon-wright. A mile farther on, by the little river

"EVIL IS WROUGHT ST WANT OF THOUGHT." 91

before mentioned, resided a wright, so we consented to
carry their wheel to him, then continue our treck till
they overtook us. The wagon-maker was a well-to-do
person, and this hill apparently brought him abundant
employment. He was a hard man at a bargain, and
well knew how to take advantage of others' misfortunes.
The poor Boers were inconsolable when they learned
that two pounds would be the charge for the necessary
repairs. However, there was no way out of the scrape
but to pay and look happy; and though they had no
money, that did not matter ; we advanced it, and so
parted with Pater and Hendrick, to cover as much
ground as we could before they overtook us.

That morning we made a long treck before out-
spanning, our halting-place being on the summit of
a hill surrounded by deep valleys, through each of
which ran streams of clear cold water. At one p.m.
fell a short but heavy shower of rain ; this delayed
our trecking till nearly four o'clock. Down the incline
we went splendidly, but when we attempted the ascent
we found our work cut out for us. The cattle were
willing, but the track was so slippery from the rain that
it required all their exertions to retain their footing.
By dint of careful driving we got over about two
hundred yards, when an evil thought struck William
— he resolved to leave the road and take the velt. I
did not remonstrate, as he was the better judge in
such matters. Soon the wagon was on the grass ; for a
short distance there was an improvement in pace ; but,
smash ! there goes something, and the wagon gradually
sank down and remained at an angle of forty-five
degrees. The side of an earth-crack several feet deep
had suddenly given way, leaving us in a most awkward

92 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

position, and one that it would require much labour to
extricate us from. The remainder of that afternoon,
William, the boys, and myself worked like navvies.
Morris, who was again feeling unwell, sat hard by on a
camp-stool, attending to the fire and keeping a constant
supply of chocolate ready ; while Holly awakened the
echoes of the interior of the wagon with, not the stereo-
typed " Red, White, and Blue," but the most diabolical
groans and grunts.

Soon after dark I got my friend to retire, and as
there were now two in the wagon, I slept, or tried to
do so, underneath it. The dogs would not leave me
alone : first one licking my face, then my hand, and
so on, till a free fight would take place among them ;
for Bob, a large rough greyhound I had obtained from
Zeiderberg, and Bontebuck, who were pals, seemed to
think that I was their undivided property, and that
none of the others had the slightest right to come
near me. All did not see it in this light, and one more
venturesome than another would approach, when woe
betide him or her, for both the greyhounds would be
on the intruder in a moment ! The disturbance would
summon the others, and there would be a perfect Babel
of yells, worries, and snaps, till the Kaffirs turned out
with their jambocks, to separate the combatants.

One of the boldest and most irrepressible was a
black bitch, seemingly three-parts greyhound, the re-
mainder pointer. She had a puppy with her about six
months old, the ugliest, queerest-looking nondescript
in dog-flesh I have ever seen. Its body was like a
greyhound's, the ears as large in proportion as a fennec
fox's, and the place of a tail was supplied by a scut.
This curiosity, when not stealing, eating, or sleeping,

HILL CATTLE OF SOUTH AFRICA.

was engaged in a game of romps with, its mother, or
poking about looking for vermin. Never was there a
more affectionate child or parent ; but however much the
mother loved her offspring, in exactly that ratio it was
hated by all its companions. For some unseen cause
some of the other dogs would make a dash at it, when it
would sing out, bringing the mother to the rescue, like
a lioness robbed of her whelps. This puppy was
disposed to be very friendly with me, indeed so was its
dam; but I would have thought more than twice
before I had dared to flog it. The black bitch was
a great favourite with Umganey, and always accom-
panied him when herding; bub he was so kind to
the animals — an unusual thing among Kaffirs — that this
did not surprise me, more particularly when he told
William that it came from his country, his own home
on the Umpholosi.

From daybreak to eleven o'clock we worked like
slaves, and so little had we done that I resolved to go
forward and look for aid, particularly as there was no sign
of the approach of our Boers. Mounting the chestnut
horse, that had done little or no work lately, I cantered
over some fine upland covered with droves of cattle,
from whose manner and hostile appearance I should
imagine they see very little of their owners or "herds."
One grand bull seemed much disposed to dispute with
me the right of road, but a yell and a crack of my whip
put him to flight. I believe you seldom find cattle
savage in Africa: something in the air, or breeding,
or early handling, appears to counteract that disposition.
Talking a few years ago to a Scotch gentleman on the
subject of Ayrshire cattle, he informed me that it was
almost impossible to keep the bulls of this breed after

94 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

they were four years old. I know when I was a boy I
had a wholesome dread of trespassing too far into a field
where there was a bull.

After having ridden about five miles I came to three
wagons outspanned by the roadside, in a very picturesque
position. In the foreground, with his back against one
of the wheels, sat on the ground a very handsome, clean-
looking old man. In English he returned my salutation.
The clatter of my horse's feet brought several younger
persons out of their wagons, who all shook hands with
me, offered me coffee, and expressed pleasure at making
my acquaintance.

Soon my difficulties were narrated, and when I started
on my return I had their assurance that they would
hurry and get yoked, as that was the direction they
were travelling, " and put me all to rights before they
left me." True to their word, they speedily put in an
appearance, and further, with their own cattle, trecked
me to the top of the next acclivity, leaving therefore
no difficulties in the way till I reached the town on
Bushman's River. For this service they would accept
nothing. On pressing the one who appeared the most
active in directing how to accomplish the task, he
quickly answered, "No, no; you would have done the
same for us." They were Englishmen from Norfolk,
who farmed land fifty miles to the eastward. They had
been about ten years in the country, and had done well.

The road down to Bushman's Eiver is cut out of the
face of steep, rocky hills, covered with rather large tim-
ber for this part of Africa. The stream, which is
about the size of the Clyde at Hamilton, flows rapidly
over a very rough bottom. The descent to the bridge
that crosses it is very steep, and must not be attempted

MORRIS SERIOUSLY ILL. 95

without locking the wheels. We passed through the
outskirts of the village, a long road with a few houses
on one side, and the barrack of the Natal Mounted
Police Force on the other, till we arrived at what looked
like a village -green, where we outspanned in front of
a place of business kept by a Scotch gentleman, whom
we found the essence of hospitality. Soon after un-
yoking, the chief officer of the Mounted Police called
upon us, and insisted on our becoming his guests ; but
we had to decline, being already engaged.

That evening a serious accident happened : the
chestnut horse cast himself and put his hip out of
joint. Every effort was made to replace it, but in
vain. The smaller pony, that Holly had thrown
down, day by day became more useless; so we deter-
mined to leave both behind : thus out of our stud but
one remained. To add to other troubles Morris is
worse ; and although I wish to persuade him to remain
here for a few days, and let me treck on towards the
Drackenberg, he will not listen to it.

We spent a very pleasant evening at Mr. Boss's
house ; he invited the chief of police to join us : we sat
late, and our host confided to us that, having made
sufficient for all his wants, he intended soon to retire
from business, and pass the remainder of his days at
home. May he enjoy that rest and peace which the
hospitable and honourable are ever entitled to ! is my
wish.

Morris still unwell. On" our next day's march we
bathed ; I fear it was imprudent on his part, for at our
outspanning-place I found him very flushed and feverish,
and his throat severely ulcerated. He must either go
back to our last halting-place to recruit, or I will order

96 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

the wagon to return. Holly also complains that the
work is too hard for him : bless my soul! he has
done nothing but lie in the wagon, except when eating.
Morris proposes taking him with him, and our friend
of the "Ked, White, and Blue" is anxious for the
arrangement. I fear he thinks me a hard and unfeeling
taskmaster. This I cannot help, for his own mis-
conduct has brought on all his troubles, and therefore I
have no will to do his part of the labour.

It was discovered that at a house in the vicinity — a
solitary place, half hotel and half shop, with no human
dwellings within many miles — a conveyance and horses,
carrying the mails from Colenso, stops three or four
times a week. This is fortunate, for the invalid will go
there and wait for its arrival, where, between the rest,
quiet, good food, and the care of the landlord and his
wife, I have no doubt he will soon feel himself again.

After this arrangement was come to, we sat down
to our midday meal ; it was one of the very saddest I
ever ate in my life ; not a word was spoken. At length
Morris — my tried, good, kindhearted friend — and myself
walked down to the river. He spoke bitterly of his
disappointment and his grief at leaving me alone; he
saw that any delay on my part, even that of a day, was
to ruin for ever any chance I possessed of getting up-
country, for the Boers would not wait an hour when
ready to treck. So he did not advise me to return.
However, he pointed out the hardships before me ;
the loneliness that I should suffer from want of com-
panionship, and the danger I should be exposed to
if I met with an accident or became ill. This had been
considered long before as what I had to dread, and I
placed my life on the stake.

MORRIS AND HOLLY LEAVE ME. 97

" Well, good-bye, old man. Grod knows if ever we
shall meet again," lie said.

" (rood-bye, my dear, dear friend ! "

We embraced ; tears stood in his eyes, while I was
completely upset, and felt nearer breaking down than
ever I did before.

Morris with a valise in his hand, Holly with a carpet
bag, both walked silently away ; presently the latter
slackened his pace, stopped, turned round, looked
towards me, threw down his carpet bag, and came up
to me running. " I can't go," he said, " without bid-
ding you good-bye." I held out my hand, he took it ;
and when I quietly told him " I should have been very
much disappointed if you had," he gave me one long,
long look, sadder far than I thought his face could
express, dropped my hand, and slowly, without once
turning, followed Morris. " Oh ! does not a parting
like this make amends ? "

Alone ! yes, I am alone ; to realise the fact was
dreadful ; the more I contemplated it the more unequal
I felt to the task before me. Action was the only
remedy, so I explained to the Boers that I was going
ahead, told Umganey to catch the pony, and taking my
rifle, and followed by a couple of the dogs, forded the
river, and slowly rode on to our next resting-place.

For days past, especially during the morning treck,
I had seen abundant proofs that bush-buck were far
from scarce along our route. But I always had too
much to do to think of hunting, and even if it had been
otherwise, as certain as I either dropped behind or went
ahead, some accident or other would occur to cattle or
wagon ; thus I had made up my mind never to lose
sight of them, and would even now have stuck to my
H

98 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

resolution, if it had not been that I was perfectly
aware that I must do something to occupy my mind
and drive away care.

After riding over a mile along a very heavy sandy
road, I came to an open meadow, well wooded on either
side, with a stream in the middle ; and believing that
the Boers would not inspan for an hour to come, I
resolved to ride up one side of it and down the. other.
Bontebuck and Bob were my companions, both well
accustomed to a gun. We had not gone far when
several partridges (Perdrix Nataliensis] were flushed, for
all dogs that I have found in Africa appear to hunt
indifferently fur or feather.

These birds are very much like the ruffed grouse of
North America, but are destitute of the wattles down
the neck; they lay well, are swift upon the wing, so,
where abundant, afford good sport. Their favourite
habitat is wooded kloofs, in which water is plentiful.
Their call is very peculiar, being more like the cackle
of the guinea-fowl than that of the partridge family.
Several quail were also flushed. As far as I can judge,
for I have not shot any yet, the latter are identical with
the quail of Southern Europe. Having a Martini-Henry
carbine with me, these small deer could chaff me with
impunity.

But while thinking about the birds, I perceive Bob
going like a racehorse up the ravine, while Bontebuck
bounded up higher and higher with the hope of getting
a more extended range of vision, then suddenly down
went his head, and off he goes : game, reptile, or vermin
of some sort is certainly afoot ; but what can it be ?
Looking out for holes — and the rider must do that
in South Africa — I gave the pony the spur, and galloped

VARIOUS MODES OF FILLING A PIPE. 99

forward to some high ground, an offshoot of the ridge
on which I was. I saw neither of the dogs from this
elevated position, and, provoking on such occasion,
neither of them at any time gives tongue. Well, I
might as well be here as anywhere else : a pretty view
is stretched before me, a fine wide placid stream, an
immense meadow, and in the far distance a few white
cottages, and our wagons cannot go down the acclivity
in front of me without my seeing them.

Thus feeling secure in every sense, I jumped off
my horse, knee -haltered him, gave him a slap on the
rump, and told him to make the best use of his time.
Taking out my pipe, I quietly and studiously filled it.
There are, gentle reader, different ways of filling a pipe,
and each manner denotes whether the filler is in a
hurry or the reverse, meditative or angry. I have filled
a pipe when I have heard dogs running and expected a
shot — promptness was the object then to be obtained ;
therefore you do not think of the ash that is in it, that
will probably impede the draught, but press the bowl
into your pouch, shove your finger after the load to
keep the tobacco in its place, and so the operation is
performed. If not in a hurry, you fill it with precision :
clean out the bowl first, place every layer of tobacco in
position, and are careful to leave no surplus of the
nicotian weed. Meditatively filling a pipe is a slow
process ; and after having completed it you find, through
your mind being intent on other matters, that so much
tobacco overtops the bowl, that when you attempt to
light it, the first puff of wind carries all the burning top
away, and another fusee or match is wanted. But the
angry process is — dig out your pipe, and probably put
the point of your knife through the bottom of the

100 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

bowl, then force the tobacco in so hard that all draught
is impeded ; puff, puff go your cheeks without response ;
then you become more angry, till it strikes you of a
sudden what a fool you are to give way to such temper :
you recover yourself, and enjoy your smoke.

Meditatively, then, on this occasion I filled my pipe,
for I thought of those who had just left me and of the
future before me. I lit it, but the overhanging portion
blew off ; I was, therefore, going to light another match
when I heard a noise as of a sharp slap upon the rocks.
Putting my pipe down, and gently turning to face the
sound, I saw a matured bush-buck to windward of me,
and, judging from his manner, intently studying the
pony, now about a couple of hundred yards off. My
presence the game was evidently perfectly ignorant of,
still he appeared angry ; the little mane along his
withers was erect, and he looked not unlike the village
goat who knows that the hour has arrived for the
schoolboys to burst forth into liberty from their late
restraint. Quietly picking up my rifle, at point-blank
range I fired at his russet flank ; I heard the ball strike,
still I saw the buck go down the hillside with all
his legs in their right places. Well, it was a shot
that none but a duffer could miss ; the object of aim
was not seventy yards off, and stood considerably taller
than a Leicester sheep. As I was shoving in a fresh
cartridge, very indifferent whether the poor beast was
hit or not, up came Bonty, immediately behind him
Bob, to the very place where the bush-buck had stood,
and in a moment both turned off, and, going their best,
followed the course he had taken. For ten minutes I
remained looking down into the hollow beneath, hoping
to see the game at bay ; but in this I was disappointed,

'WARE THE PLUCK OF BUSH-BUCK. 101

so thought I would again light the recusant pipe. While
doing so I heard growls and one or two suppressed
yelps, so I sought the pony, and hurried to the place
from whence the sounds emanated. At length I reached
it, and there were the dogs, Bontebuck much out of
breath, with his tongue hanging flaccidly over his lower
jaw, and Bob standing like a pointer, his hair bristled
up, as if anxious to lay hold of something he dare not
attack. Still I could see no game ; but that some had
been brought to bay no one who knew dogs' manners
and natures could doubt.

Coming within fifty yards of the hounds, I jumped
off* the pony and walked to the spot ; but before I knew
what I was about something sprung out of the bush,
and was within two or three yards of me when my rifle,
employed as a pistol, turned it over. Fortunately I used
my weapon as I did, for I never could have had time to
bring it to my shoulder before the assailant's horns had
impaled me.

It was the bush-buck : the first shot had been too
low and too far back either to cripple or kill. This
was not my first experience of bush-buck, but I had
since been occupied with other game, and had for-
gotten what an active, plucky little beast it was when
wounded. Let novices beware of wounded bush-buck.
After divesting the carcase of the paunch and stomach,
I was about to leave it on the road for the Boers to pick
up, when a horseman joined me ; he told me the wagons
were close, so we waited to hand over to them the
reward of my prowess, after which, along with my
acquaintance, whom I had met at Bushman's E-iver, I
rode forward to Colenso.

CHAPTEE XI.

CROSSING THE DRACKENBERG.

Colenso — Curious Custom of Naming Towns — An Excellent Cuisine — A Smart
v. a Handsome Man — The Men who get on — " The Rising Sun " — Fish for
Dinner — Are not Sardines Fish ? — Night Marches — Umganey is " Bass's
Boy " — The Lad's Willingness — Morris Rejoins me — White Savages — The
Great Phairshon — William's Masterly Activity — Chocolate-making— Ready
for the Ascent of the Drackenherg — The Shooting of Olephunts — " Do you
Englishmans want the Transvaal ? " — Native Animus against British Rule —
Van Renan's Pass — Dore's Illustrations of the Inferno — The Passage Begun
— Klipping — Crawling On — Narrow Escapes — Very Cold — The Summit is
Passed— Hurrah !

COLENSO is an extremely pretty little place; its white
houses and wide street give it quite an aristocratic
appearance. What 's in a name ? Much, I should say ;
and the person after whom it is named I should not a
hit he surprised to find living there, and that to his
energy, attention, and industry are due its attractive
appearance. It is not necessary in this country to
reside in a town to cause it to be named after you.
Did Sir Harry Smith ever live at the town of Harri-
smith, or Lady Smith at the town of Ladysmith ?

My new acquaintance, a very pleasant, well-
informed man, was going to sleep at the hotel, so I
resolved to do the same. Without Morris, and in the
vicinity of hotel accommodation, the interior of the
wagon would be intensely lonely and objectionable.

I was much pleased afterwards that I formed this
resolution, for I found the establishment highly respect-

A HANDSOME MAN. 103

able and clean, the host a gentleman, lately an officer of
our Bengal army, and the cuisine excellent and well served
— a curry that would have done honour to the table of
the governor-general, with rice, each grain of which was
a separate and independent pearl, was put upon the
table ; nor were chutney and chow-chow pickle wanting
as the necessary condiments. A flake of Bombay duck
would have been an admirable addition, but those pis-
ciferous creatures have not yet learned to swim across
to Africa's shores. The table was full, and some
pleasant frontier men among the number. A young
transport rider, about six feet two, who had travelled
much, and done so with his eyes open, was a specimen
of humanity that any nationality might be proud of,
and any family, however aristocratic, regard as a noble
representative of their race. He knew much on which
he conversed, and more on which he held his tongue. We
sat late, drank but little, and smoked a great deal. He
reminded me of a late officer of the Blues, who was
known by the name of Punch, handsome enough in
appearance to be used as the model on which we should
like future generations to be built. But the country
values a handsome man at less than a smart man ; conse-
quently the former, for he is a fearfully touchy creature,
considers himself slighted, wanders forth into the world,
trusting to his pluck and giant strength ; the latter, on
the contrary, knows bread and butter are to be got at
home, and preferring the ills he knows to those he
knows not of, minds not his corns being trodden on if he
thinks he can use the apology of the aggressor as the
means of an introduction from which may spring chances
of future aggrandisement. No, no ; put your pride in
your pocket if you want to get on : with the kicks come

104 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

the halfpence. In this world men do not help those
whom they feel their equals in courage, strength of
mind, judgment. That would never do ; hut the fawn-
ing sycophant, who makes his patron believe that he is
unworthy to lick the dust off his shoes, to him will be
extended the hand of assistance, because, forsooth, he is
so humble and meek. Here is the difference : the one
will oppose you openly as a man, hand to hand or tooth
to tooth, while the other will bite you in the back with
the venom of certain destruction. It always makes
me savage when I meet the finest, most open-hearted
specimens of our race driven to colonies or foreign
lands, to eke out a scanty subsistence, and ultimately
pass off the face of the earth, while the cunning
hypocrite fattens and waxes rich at home.

My friend of last night wished me to join him, for
he travels the same route for three hundred miles ; but
he is pressed for time, and consequently makes forced
marches. I am not; and, even if I wished, dare not
hurry my cattle.

At sunrise I crossed the ferry, and at first traversed
a very pretty country, afterwards a most dismal one. Who
knows the stretch of old Scotland that extends from
Seutra Hill, beyond Blackshiels, as you go to the town
where is reported to have lived bonnie Maggie Lauder ?
After you have got a mile or two over the ridge, halt,
and look to all the airts of the wind — moor in front, moor
behind, and moor to right and left. Such is the land
through which we are now passing. At length I arrive
opposite a tavern, with " hot meals " announced in the
window.

Can it be possible in such a place as this ? I cast
my eyes up, and see over the door a gorgeous painting

A FISH DINNER. 105

of sunset, all red herrings and Findon haddocks, and
over it, in large characters, the name of the house, "The
Rising Sun." Calling to mind the old proverb enforcing
us not to judge by appearance, I enter. In a suave,
bland voice I ask, " What can I have ? " " Some nice
fish, sir/7 says the host. "How long before they are
ready — twenty minutes or half an hour ? for I wish to
look after my cattle first." " Say thirty minutes," replied
the host. " Very well," meekly I answered, and made
my exit forthwith, and attended to the wants of my
four-footed beasts, anticipating the meal. Fish — only
think ! fish — which I had not eaten for ever so long.

At the appointed moment I found myself entering
the house with fish on the brain. On being shown into
the dining-room, I discovered a dirty towel spread on
the table, a loaf of very doubtful bread, a plate, and a
small box of sardines. " Ah ! an appetiser. This
fellow understands the secret of living!" mentally ex-
claimed I. So I sat down and ate the sardines, and
vociferously knocked on the table for the waiter to bring
the piece de resistance.

The host entered.

"Those sardines, were very good. It was very
thoughtful of you to provide them. I will now, if you
please, have the fish — the poisons;" for I thought to
make a facetious joke.

The landlord stared ; so did I. At length he
gasped, " You have eaten the fish."

" You don't call those fish ?" I cried out furiously.

"Well, what do you call them?" he answered.

I seized the empty sardine-box. He retired rapidly,
and closed the door between us.

Vowing vengeance on the perpetrator of such a joke

106 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

— for I do not like jokes when I am the victim — I
pondered over my disappointment, and lit my pipe to
help me to think. At first I considered myself a very
ill-used man ; then that I had been grossly deceived ;
and before I left the table I asked myself the question,
Are sardines not fish ?

After this it was treck, treck, treck. There was a
fine moon at night, so the oxen were three times yoked
in the twenty-four hours. I dare not complain ; for it
was come on or stop where you are. This extraordinary
hurry induced me to ask William the cause. " Pater
and Hendrick want to see their fro ws and kinderkins"
Men acting under such influences I knew it was
impossible to argue with, so I gave up the thought of
reasoning on the matter. I got so resigned to my fate,
that when I heard the Kaffirs woke up by the shout of
" Treck ! " I jumped out from underneath my warm
blankets, regardless of night air, cold, stones, or bushes.
I looked after the horse, Jim and Umganey helped
William with the cattle, and Imp, with his confounded
feusack and a jambock, hustled the dogs out from under
the wagon, and packed away any of the cooking utensils
that might lie about.

These night marches were very cold, so, to keep
myself warm, I led the pony and walked on in front ;
for now that we were ascending to very high lands, the
lad Jim was constantly required at the brake. At
length the boy Umganey, who occasionally escaped fore-
loping when the track was well defined, would come and
relieve me of the halter. Hourly he became more useful
to me, and hourly I became more attached to him ; so
one day I gave him an old tweed coat, trousers, cap, and
a blanket. He was changed from that moment : he did

UMGANETS DESIRE TO PLEASE. 107

his work as before, but he was now his "Bass's boy."
What I took pleasure in he did : of his own accord he
looked after the pony and dogs ; and when once or twice I
went with him herding, he was the happiest lad alive.
The cattle he could do anything with but drive, for
he had never learned to do so ; but I doubt when
he took them out on the velt to feed whether they would
have left him. One day I went to him while herding:
I had my rifle on my arm. I explained that I wanted
to shoot something. He took me up a hill, very steep
and very stony, and signed to me to sit down. I did
so, and quietly smoked a pipe, while he disappeared.
Soon he came back, led me along a most intricate path,
making me stoop and bend as I advanced. Of course, I
expected it was one of the numerous hill antelopes he
was bringing me to ; but when I had looked over the
shelter we had reached, what did I discover but a troop
of baboons about seventy yards off, headed by a most
powerful patriarchal old fellow ! The boy was evidently
disappointed that I did not fire at them.

This kind of monotonous work had gone on for
nearly a week, when one afternoon, two or three hours
from sunset, Umganey rushed to the wagon where I
had been lying down, and exclaimed, "Bass! Bass!"
pointing back to the road we had travelled in the
morning. He said something more which I did not
comprehend, but like a wild thing darted off in that
direction. I could not make him out, and commenced
to think that he was bereft of reason. In ten minutes
more I saw him approaching by the side of a cart,
his face illuminated with the broadest smile, and all
his splendid white teeth exposed. The conveyance
stopped, and out of it jumped — who do you suppose ?

108 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

other than dear Morris, looking so well. In all my
life I had not experienced a happier reunion.

"The Laird" had followed me for several days,
and almost despaired of overtaking me ; his driver had
mutinied, and refused to proceed any farther, so that he
w-as compelled to take whip and reins in his own hands.

The cattle hy this time were yoked, the driver and
his trap dismissed : so leaving the pony to Jim, together,
as of yore, we walked on ahead, I listening to all he had
endured, afterwards narrating my own sufferings to him ;
neither was the subject exhausted, for when the out-
spanning-place was reached, over our supper we fought
again our battles, and once more repeated the process in
the interior of the wagon, while discussing our glass of
grog and pipe before closing our eyes for the night.
Too much pleasure for one day I had received, so could
not sleep. Thus when we trecked in the morning I
did not disturb him, so that we were at our next halt-
ing-place preparing for breakfast before he turned out.

Again we apparently had entered the country of
incessant rain. Seldom for an hour did it cease ; the
ground was perfectly soddened, and all the watercourses
brimful; but when unfordable a delay of a few hours
would often produce such a subsidence, that the felloes
of the wheel would scarcely become submerged. If the
country was wild, what about the people ? for we passed
two or three cottages in fifty miles. Well, they were
as near savages as it is possible for whites to become.
One barn-like house, two or three hundred yards from
the road, I visited. My approach cannot have been
seen, for when I knocked at the door, and the inmates,
a mother and three or four scared-looking children, per-
ceived me, they rose from the table with a scream, and

"SOMETHING HOT" UNDER DIFFICULTIES. 109

rushed out into the open like a flock of frightened sheep.
They must have thought me the Great Phairshon whom
Professor Aytoun tells of, who went forth to plunder and
to ravish. But I was determined not to be done in that
way, for I wanted milk, so made several efforts to parley
with them, hut all was of no avail : the nearer I ap-
proached the hillside, the faster they retreated up it, so
I had to return without the luxury I coveted. What
nationality they belonged to, what language they spoke,
I know not ! Their scream was English, if an English
school-girl screams in English, for there was a strong
similarity between the two, and they were fair-com-
plexioned.

Next day after this adventure it rained in torrents.
It was useless to try and keep a fire lighted, so we sat
all day, for it was impossible to treck, inside the wagon,
which was worse than clammy — actually wet — diversify-
ing the time between munching biscuits, smoking, and
grumbling at the hard treatment the world gave us.

It must have been about eight in the evening,
possibly later, for it was getting dark, when Morris said,
" What would I not give for something hot ?" Strange
coincidence ! I was thinking at the moment of the same
thing. So remembering where there was a half-empty
deal box that was once filled with candles, with a
grin of destruction on my face, I procured it, rent it
asunder, deliberately split it up into tiny pieces, and, re-
gardless of wind and rain, went to the sheltered side of
the wagon, and boiled a kettle of water ; and while the
chocolate was being dissolved in our dealers (tins with
the handle at the side that hold a pint), Morris called
from within, " Look out, old man ; remember we have
one hundred pounds of loose powder on board!" Scarcely

110 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

had the last syllable heen said, than William, who had
been seriously contemplating niy labours, vanished into
the outer darkness, with an amount of activity I never
saw him previously display.

After having boiled another kettle . of water, the
remains of the fire were scattered ; then William came
forth with the whining complaint, " Oh, Bass, I am so
hungry!"

"Have some more biscuit, then: there are plenty
in the box."

"But, Bass, they are so cold."

" He wants some chocolate — give him some to get
rid of him," said Morris. So he received the chocolate
and departed. But William had the nose of a pointer
and the intelligence of the fox when eating and drinking
were going on ; thus, as soon as I commenced mixing
my grog, back he came, raised the curtain of the wagon,
and solemnly contemplated the operation, repeating at
short intervals, and in a most snivelling tone, " I was
very cold," " I was very," &c. &c. He should here
have been told to shut up, or go and put his head in a
bag, but we dare not treat him according to his deserts,
for we were in his power till over the Drackenberg. So
he was courteously asked if he would like a drink.
Would a fish swim? He was handed in his beaker
about half a pint of the twenty over-proof. Oh. that
was prime stuff, and so economical ! it hit hard, and bit
like an adder. But the poor Kaffirs who were under
the wagon, without complaining or murmuring, wanted
something to warm them more than any one. So a ration
of grog was served all round, to their immense delight.

In the morning it cleared up ; and after a tiresome
day's work we reached the White House, a small

UNDER BOER SURVEILLANCE. Ill

tavern, just under the Berg, where quite fifty wagons
were assembled, waiting for an improvement in the
weather. As a matter of course, among so many wagons
all engaged in trade of some description or other, the two
strange Englishmen going up 'through the northern
country were regarded with great curiosity. For the
few hours that we were outspanned here, I believe every
teamster had a good stare at us ; and I think our height
and apparent strength were the means of entitling us
to more than the ordinary respect they show strangers.
However, an incident, trifling it is true, occurred, yet
as it expressed the sentiments of some of the population
I will give it. A stalwart Boer from the Transvaal,
and dressed in the Dopper costume, happening to hear
me called " Captain " by driver William, turned round
sharp on that luckless individual, and said a word or two
hurriedly in Dutch, which I did not catch ; in response
William murmured something about soldier officer,
when the stranger, with a grunt ominous of dis-
approbation, hurriedly departed, looking anything but
an amiable man. Likes or no likes, what did I care ?
although I would always prefer conciliation to a quarrel.
It is the best policy in the end, and the young traveller
will not do wrong to remember this.

We were about putting the cattle in when the tall
stranger, with a companion, again made his appearance.
At the time I was standing some way from the wagon.
He approached me, and introduced his friend, who
spoke English fairly.

" So you are going up to shoot olephunts" (Both
Boers and Africanders use this word.)

" I am, and hope we shall not have to go far beyond
the Transvaal to find them."

112 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

" But does the Queen send her soldier officers to
shoot olephunts ? "

11 No ; not that I'm aware of. I'm not in the army

now."

Here there was a long consultation between the
two, and I quietly stole off to where the mob of cattle
were having their reims put on. After a few minutes
they again joined us, and the former spokesman resumed
the conversation.

" My friend thinks, and so do I, that so many of
you Englishmans come to see the Transvaal, that you
want to get the country/'

" Very likely," responded I, which being interpreted
resulted in both getting extremely angry. " "Well, you
will see," continued the speaker, " that we can fight,
that we are good men, and that we can defend our
country. Why you send your soldiers to trouble us ?
you have plenty country of your own. We'll fight, and
show you how many we can kill of the red- coats."

This conversation is simply mentioned to show
the animus of a certain portion of the inhabitants of
the late Republic to British rule. There is no doubt
that Carl Kreuger and John Fayune are intensely
Eepublican, and would resist to death the annexation of
the Transvaal, but fortunately their faction composes a
small portion of the population, and their residence is
chiefly on the northern frontier.

The road by which we cross the Drackenberg to the
country beyond is called Yan Eenan's Pass, a person of
that name being supposed to have been the first who
came from the east through this gap to the country
beyond. He must have been a bold man, and a sure-
footed mountaineer, for as far as one can judge, looking

VAN RENAN'S PASS. 113

from beneath, it is truly a fearful place now, and what
must it have been before roads had been blasted out ?
Some of the peaks, I am told, reach an altitude of
11,000 feet; the summit of the pass we are about to
go through is reported to be 6,500 feet above sea-level—
500 feet higher than the most elevated portion of the
Atlantic and Pacific line of railroad connecting New
York with San Francisco.

The sun is setting, and of course all the valley is in
shadow; but to look at these mountains, precipitous,
grim, rocky, and almost destitute of vegetation, it
brings at once to my mind some of the illustrations of
Dante's " Inferno," drawn by Gustave Pore. We see
visions in our sleep, faces we know not, and scenes we
have never been in. Could that great artist have been
transported here in mind before he drew those pictures ?
I never open this illustrated edition of that great
work but I feel a cold unearthly chill creep over me,
such a feeling as I experienced in childhood, when, by
the fitful light of the fire, I have listened to some
fearful ghost story. And now at maturity, as I gaze
at the scene before me, the same feeling, only softened
by experience and age, lays hold of me. If this wild
precipitous black range of mountains, with its irre-
gular jagged outline, were the barrier between earth
and hell, how mortals would dread the time of
passing them, for once beyond, hope for ever must
be closed !

Our wagon is to go up first, being supposed to be
the heaviest. Hendrick's and Pater's teams are to be
put to it — thirty-six oxen in all — and if we get to
the summit in ten hours we are to deem ourselves
fortunate.

114 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

All is in readiness ; the cattle are yoked, and the
treck-tow is stretched out to its greatest length. The
drivers have taken their places — William in front, Pater
in the middle, and Hendrick (as the most skilled Jehu)
behind, while Morris and I are instructed to follow close
after with a large stone in our hands, which is to be
jammed under the hind wheels whenever the wagon
stops, or we hear the word " Klip " shouted.

The sun had long gone down, but we had a grand
moon — one that seemed much overgrown, still had lost
none of its brilliancy by the process.

Hendrick passes the signal to the other drivers to
know if they are ready ; having received a favourable
reply, with good bass voice he shouts " Amba treck" the
words being echoed by each of the others, and off moves
the wagon in gallant style. For about a hundred yards
our course is over the sward, after that comes an abrupt
turn entering a steep incline, and the ascent has begun.
For a hundred yards or more it was a tremendous pull,
but as it was the start, the oxen were comparatively
fresh, and no stones were required ; but in fifty yards
more "Klip !" was called out, and my friend and I did
the klipping, Hendrick at the same time rushing behind
to the rear of the wagon to put on the brake.

Now, this klipping may be a playful amusement
for some people, but Morris and myself very soon came
to the conclusion that it bore a very strong resemblance
to hard work, with every probability of getting your
fingers crushed or yourself run over. Neither was it a
joke to carry a rock about twenty-five pounds in weight
up a hill — mountain, I should say — far more favourable
for the progression of goats or Shetland ponies than
human beings. Though seeing the matter in this light,

ASCENDING THE PASS. 115

yet we dare not remonstrate, for if we did not klip, the
wagon as likely as not would go over the ledge, and
halt — in fragments.

Grade after grade, the hill increased in steepness,
and often the oxen were compelled to stop every twenty
or thirty yards. The drivers certainly did their work,
and did not spare themselves ; and the heavy breathing
of the cattle showed that their task was no easy one.

Although our stoppages were most numerous, still
we crawled on — truly step hy step — still forward ; so if
we met nothing more formidable, in time we would
reach the top. We were in luck, too, as far as the
weather was concerned, for a more lovely night could
not have been made to order ; only one improvement
could I have suggested — namely, that the temperature
had been a little higher. Still, perhaps this slight fault
gave one more enjoyment in the use of his tobacco, and
more gusto in the flavour of his grog. Both of these
commodities I enjoyed immensely in ascending Van
Kenan's Pass ; my friend, who is always very ab-
stemious, I think on this occasion did likewise : and
conveniently there ran along the mountain side of
the track the prettiest little purling brook of sweet
water that ever grouse-shooter or gillie selected, as an
inducement to make a locality become their noonday
resting-place.

But while digressing, we have come to a terrible
grip : the gun-like reports of the whips crack ! crack !
crack ! incessantly, like the irregular fire of a com-
pany skirmishing ; and I had just remarked, " That's
hot, Morris!" when that most objectionable — nay,
abominated — shout of "Klip!" struck on our ears. I
did my best to be quick, and in consequence got a
i 2

116 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

finger pinched. Of course it must be so — persons who
do things in a hurry are certain to get hurt, if, indeed,
they don't actually make a complete bungle of the
matter.

That last pull was a near thing, but the driving and
energy of Hendrick saved us, or at least the wagon,
from trying to discover the sea-level; for when I got
my fingers pinched I became " gingery " — an expres-
sion I remember using as a boy — and failed for some
time in getting my stone under the wheel.

That doubtless was the worst trial we had, for
although it was only in the middle of the incline, halts
afterwards became less frequent and less prolonged.
There was one rest I well remember ; it was a point
two -thirds to the summit, and where the road diverged
from about north to north-west. At the moment the
moon was unusually brilliant, and you could see the
tops of hill after hill, till you almost imagined that
the limit of your vision was where the ocean joined
the sky — imagined, remember I say.

At this time it was fearfully cold — the thermo-
meter I do not think had reached freezing-point — and
there was no wind ; still our progress was so slow that
the blood chilled in our veins : and pray, reader, re-
collect we had left Natal covered with tropical vege-
tation in full leaf, not more than a few weeks before,
and crossed the equator in the Atlantic Ocean not over
another month previously.

I can recall our both leaning against a rock shiver-
ing : no complaint was made beyond the remark that it
was "deuced cold !" Still, I have no doubt we both felt
it even to our marrow-bones.

Again we are off : the whips crack, the drivers scold,

OVER THE DRACKENBERG. 117

and shout the names of lagging oxen, while the poor
beasts groan, and cough, and wheeze with their exertions
and the effects of the rarefied atmosphere. From the
abyss on our left rises an immense riven rock. Here
we are informed that a wagon at no long-distant time
back had gone over ; but we pass the dangerous place
in safety, and — hurrah ! hurrah ! we are descending,
having passed the summit.

A breathing-time is given. Each one looks as if he
had accomplished a great feat, and that he is the hero
of it. The bottle is produced ; each driver has a heavy
drink ; half the treck-tow, with its cattle, is unhitched,
and the wagon expeditiously descends into the valley
beneath, and we outspan at the south-eastern limit of a
large grassy plain.

Neither Morris nor I are troubled with cattle this
span, for the driver has to go back to help the others ;
so we light a fire, cook our coffee, and turn in to sleep
the sleep of those who know they have earned it.

CHAPTER XII.

EN ROUTE FOR THE TRANSVAAL.

Rest after the Passage — "We twa hae paidTt in the Bum" — Independent of
the Boers, if need be — Red- water — No Cure — How the Mystery might be
solved— An Extraordinary Finch— What a Tail! — An Expensive Toll —
Bob and the Pig— Harrismith— The Barrack-masters of Old— The " Roughs"
of South Africa — A Law-abiding Population — Are the Boers Temperate ? —
A Dutch Beauty — Baboons on Our Way — The Sentinel Mount — Memories
of the Past — Three Splendid Mountains — Capped by Castle, Crown, and Mitre
— Our Cook — His one Great Failing — Advice to Bachelors — How to enjoy
a Meal on the Sly — The Kaffir Crane — Fevers— Our Driver's Task — The
Boer's Love of Wife and Children— Habits of the Boer.

IT was quite four o'clock the next day before all our
drivers' wagons were up ; and, poor fellows ! they looked
weary, and were so, and well they might be ; for they
had had twenty -two hours of incessant toil ; and as the
cattle as well as themselves must rest and eat, our de-
parture was delayed till the next day.

Hereabouts there are plenty of bush-buck, and rock-
antelope — an abundance of them, an old wagoner said —
but none of us felt disposed to clamber the neighbouring
cliffs, or search through the adjoining ravines, for game.
Without dissent it was cordially voted a day of rest,
and so we held it.

One thing, however, my companion and self did —
we stole away from the others to a pure pellucid moun-
tain brook hard by, and, like a pair of schoolboys by Carfc
(a river in Scotland) side, paddled in its crystal stream
till all the stains of our late labours were washed away.

RED-WATEU. 119

But, speaking for myself, the most enjoyable feeling
I had that day was to turn and look at the range of
mountains — the rugged, the steep, the precipitous, the
dangerous Drackenberg, now in our rear — so long the
bugbear of our journey, so long the point foretold that
was to end our expedition ; and, on the other hand, to
look over the vast plain that lay extending to the north,
and to know that it was but a matter of a few days
when we should be trecking through countless herds of
spring-buck, bless-buck, intermixed with quaggas and
wildebeest (gnu}.

Again, another source of rejoicing I possessed was
that, if the Boers who accompanied us became insolent
or lazy, we were now comparatively independent. At
the same time, in justice I must add that they had
stood to us nobly, and gone through a severe and heavy
ordeal which few but men skilled as the Boers are in
bullock -driving could have accomplished ; for we had a
load that would have frightened any person but such
as were as ignorant as ourselves in like matters.

Next morning at daybreak we inspanned, and made
a short treck of two hours. Our halting-place was
densely clothed with good grass, and in the immediate
vicinity an abundant supply of water could be obtained.
Here the cattle were allowed to revel till three in the
evening ; for Hendrick and Pater had to go to a neigh-
bouring farm to fetch, if alive, two oxen they were
obliged to leave behind on their downward journey, on
account of their being attacked with red- water.

I have, in a former chapter, alluded to lung-sick-
ness : red-water is a disease almost as prevalent in this
part of the country ; it unquestionably is hemorrhage in
the vicinity of the bladder, which ultimately wears out

120 . THE GREAT THIKST LAND.

and exhausts the victim. Each farmer I have spoken
to on the subject professed to have a cure for it,
hut, on comparing notes, every remedy was different.
That none of the Boers know any preventive of the
ravages of this disease is certain ; for, if so, why do they
not employ it? and the proof they do not is that
along the roads the traveller finds, or sees, hundreds
of skeletons that mark the place where victims to
red-water fell. In one part of the country, not far
from Harrismith, the road was as covered with the
hones of dead cattle, as was the road from Balac-
lava to the front, during the spring of 1855. The
reader may justly ask how I know the poor animals
died of red- water. My answer is simply, the drivers
who were with us said so. An experienced veterinary
surgeon, with a well-earned reputation, and a handsome
salary attached to his appointment, in a year or two,
if I mistake not, would soon solve the mystery, and
save Natal tens of thousands of pounds annually.

At this camping-ground I first saw that beautiful
and extraordinary finch, with a tail so long that, in a
breeze of wind, it seems that the bird is carried by the
tail, instead of the reverse. Their plumage on the body
is a beautiful full-coloured orange and a glossy black. The
tail I found, in some specimens, to be upwards of two feet
long, and an inch and a half wide, and so pliant are the
feathers even down to the quill, that they flutter and
rustle in the wind like pieces of black silk.

When it is blowing pretty strong their tails seem to
carry them away down wind, but I think in this action
the bird is either amusing himself or trying to deceive
the observer; for on several occasions, when I have
thought them struggling against the breeze unsuccess-

A PAYING TOLL-BAB. 121

fully, I have tried to approach them by getting below
to the point whither they were apparently drifting';
but, when my motive was perceived, they would alter
their course, and pursue a new one with a tolerably
strong flight.

It is most amusing to see two of the male birds
fight : from the tops of neighbouring reeds they dash
at each other, and ascend twenty or thirty yards,
struggling with beak and claws, the two tails getting
so mixed, that you might expect, after the manoeuvre
is over, the one to ask the other which tail is which.
The hen, on the other hand, is a demure little brown
thing, scarcely as large as our hen sparrow, and
quite as humble in plumage. Their nest is built in
reeds, and, although larger, has much resemblance to
a sedge warbler's. Erroneously it is called in this part
of the country by those who speak English widahfinch.

At the appointed hour that evening we trecked,
Hendrick having brought back his two oxen, but so low
in flesh are they, that I very much doubt the possibility
of their carrying their carcases to Potschefstrom. An
hour and a half after starting we passed through a toll-
gate — the division between the British colony of Natal
and the Free State. Here was levied such a sum for
permission to pass, as to induce the victim to wish he
had the privilege of keeping a similar establishment, and
pocketing all the proceeds. Our next outspanning-place
is Harrismith ; in an hour and a half we should be there,
but that we are delayed in getting the rough grey-
hound, Bob, to leave go his hold of a very large hog he
had pinned by the ear. The whole performance was
absurdly ridiculous. Bob saw the pig, and coolly,
without the slightest exertion or attempt at speed,

122 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

walked up to him; the pig, no way daunted, turned round
and faced what he supposed a dangerous neighbour,
setting his bristles, and looking as fierce as possible.
Still Bob was in no way disconcerted, but made a small
feint, and in a moment had his adversary fast by the
butt of the ear, and there held him, poor piggy screaming
most vociferously till the redoubtable Bob was forced to
relax his jaws. I believe in all my life I never saw an
animal so destitute of fear as this half-bred greyhound.

At length, just before sunset, we reach Harrismith,
and outspan three hundred yards beneath the town,
which is situated on a grassy slope at the back of the
Drackenberg, which here terminates in perpendicular
rocks — almost resembling a wall — seven or eight hun-
dred feet high.

Catalin Bay, that charming Gibraltar detachment for
British subalterns of studious minds to ruminate at, is
not unlike this place in the lay of the land, only you
must transpose the sand into grass, the sea into velt,
and leave the rocks alone. About Harrismith you
find an abundance of fruit ; in the other there was a
mulberry-tree in the garden of the officer command-
ing the detachment; it was a government tree,
and I daresay the barrack -master put it in his sche-
dule, for it was uncommonly seedy and unserviceable.
When I was a " sub," the whole of the youngsters of
my own standing used to suppose that the barrack-
master was in the habit of putting all damages in his
pocket ; I do not think my father could have done so,
for he did not die rich. However, he might not have
played his cards properly, for twenty years ago it was
an accepted fact, at least I never heard any one dispute
it, that a barrack-master could realise a large fortune

THE "ROUGES" AT HARRISMITH. 123

out of a broken hearth-stone, so often had it been
charged in rotation to officers who had the bad luck to
reside in the room that possessed it.

Not having to wait for the quarantine officer, as is
the habit on shipboard, we at once proceeded to inspect
the town and deliver a letter of introduction. At the
post-office we called, but a surly little Dutchman refused
to deliver letters, as it was after hours. Grumbling at
the want of courtesy in officials, we went in search of
the gentleman to whom we had credentials. Alas ! he
had gone to Cronstad, and would not be back for some
days. After several inquiries, and making many mis-
takes, we found the hotel, a large, roomy, square, white
house, very dirty and mouldy. There was no induce-
ment to sleep or even eat there. The beverage we
wanted (lemonade and pontac) was not to be obtained,
so I had a soupje of Hollands, the favourite drink of
the Boers. To see and learn as much as possible of the
people and their ways, I searched out the bar-room ; it-
was a filthy place, filled with as dirty, drunken, dissi-
pated a lot of roughs as ever I set eyes on. The
frequenters of the grog-shops of some of the gulches of
the Eocky Mountains in olden times could not have
surpassed this dissolute crew. Yet the white population
of this part of South Africa are a very law-abiding
people : robberies seldom take place, and bloodshed
more rarely, and though I have heard it asserted that
travellers do occasionally disappear in mysterious ways,
the law does not trouble itself to ascertain whether such
occurrences happen through violence or not.

One thing is certain, the transport riders to the
diamond and gold fields carry rich loads of mer-
chandise, and the mail-carts precious stones and specie,

124 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

yet I did not hear of any Dick Turpin or Claude
Duval having distinguished himself. Many travellers
say that the Boers are a very temperate people. I
should be inclined to think the reverse, for they will
always drink at other people's expense, and are not too
proud to ask for more. Beturning to the wagon after
dusk, we agreed that after all there was no place like
home, although it was only a wagon, and that in the
middle of a South African velt.

Next morning we visited the post-office, butcher's,
baker's, and truly the candlestick-maker's, for we wanted
a lantern, and had another stroll through the town
to see what we could of the wealth, beauty, and fashion.
The reward of our curiosity was that I, possibly through
being the most prying, got sight of a Dutch beauty.
She was about two-and-twenty years old, and at least
weighed a stone for every year she had lived ; still, she
had a pretty baby face, and wore a clean cotton dress,
closed round the waist with a draw-string.

Down in the flat beneath us we can see our people
gathering up the cattle, so we must bid adieu to Harri-
smith and all its attractions. By ten o'clock we are
once more en route, with no other towns or villages in
our way till Potschefstrom, in the Transvaal, is reached.

To the left is rough, hilly ground, covered with
grass, without bush. Morris had remarked to me that
he had not yet seen any monkeys ; but " talk of the
devil," driver William, with his face grinning as far as
his ears would permit, came up, and with intense de-
light pointed out thirty or forty baboons feeding on
a hillside as quietly, ordinarily, and peaceably as any
other people. There was a charming freedom in their
actions — an utter absence, let me say, of putting on

BABOONS OLD AND YOUNG. 125

airs, and a simplicity of manners truly delightful, that
might with advantage be introduced into more civilised
communities. They stared at the wagons, we at them ;
but, like well-bred people, they evinced no overt curiosity
or surprise. It is a mark of good breeding, I believe,
to stare ; at least I heard a young lady once say, " He
must have been a gentleman — he stared so ! "

But our dogs, ill-conditioned brutes, purchased in-
discriminately from Kaffir or Zulu, Totty or Bushman,
who have never previously been in good society, wind
these aristocratic children of the highlands, and rush
forward with the intent of making an attack upon them,
but by dint of shouting, whip-cracking, &c., they are
called off. In such engagements the attacking party
seldom come off scathless, for, like all mountaineers,
apes are wonderfully clannish, and stick to each other
through right and wrong, thick and thin.

Baboons apparently live a happy life, if I can judge
from appearances ; whether there be those bugbears of
human society among them, jealousy, intrigue, and fraud,
it would be difficult to discover. However, one thing I
can say is that their children are precocious and apt to
deem themselves of age before their time. Never-
theless, this is a failing common to the period in
which we live. The parent monkeys keep up the
good old custom of whacking their progeny — correction
that is administered with a stern sense of justice.
Their government is patriarchal, and they are not
polygamists.

Leaving the amiable family in the rear, we wind
along the eastern base of a magnificently grand moun-
tain, rising nearly three thousand feet above the plain.
It ought to be called the Sentinel, for it looks as if it

126 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

were detached from the Drackenberg for such a purpose.
Its face towards the summit is quite perpendicular, and
the rock seems as black as if coated with the corrosion of
thousands of years. A striking view of it is to be
obtained from the southern extremity ; it then looks
like a great organ. The thunders only could be fit
music for such an instrument.

We outspanned just before sunset. It was a truly
magnificent evening, with sufficient breeze to stir the air,
and enough heat to induce one to seek rest ; around us
the grass is brilliantly green, here and there interspersed
with that garden favourite, the scarlet-flowering verbena.
What memories does not this beautiful little plant recall?
every year of your life possibly, but none so vividly as
those of childhood ! I can see now in memory our old
gardener planting them out in the flower-beds among
the aspalia apple-trees. How carefully he handles them !
just observe how gently he takes away the surplus mould
from their roots. The flowers are about to start in life,
and their father the gardener removes with anxious
solicitude all that may militate or impede them in their
future existence !

But away towards the east there is a scene the like
of which I have never viewed before. Higher moun-
tains I have gazed on, but they ever were a jumble of
gigantic masses, grand in outline and magnitude, but
destitute of order. Of these the artist might possibly
say, " Hence their beauty." No doubt he thinks so, but
to argue the point would not convince him or change
me. The mountains I now speak of are three in num-
ber, running nearly north and south ; they connect one
portion of the Drackenberg with another, but each
stands separate and at almost equal distances apart ;

THREE GRAND MOUNTAINS. 127

their altitude, I am told, is nine thousand feet ; which
peak is the highest it would be difficult to say, for they
are not equally distant from where we are now halted.

The first and nearest has its sides, in fact all three
have, at exactly the same angle, but the summit of each
is crowned most dissimilarly. The nearest possesses
for its apex a castle, and such a castle! not unlike
that of Edinburgh, but increased in size a hundred-
fold. There are battlements and tower and watch-
house, and all so perfect that it is not necessary
to draw upon imagination to believe them the works
of man in the feudal ages ; and the sky is so clear,
so rarefied, that the outline of each detail of this
immense citadel can be seen without aid of tele-
scope. The summit of the second is a perfect repre-
sentation of a crown, not such as is now worn on
state occasions by our most gracious Majesty, but such
as you see in aged drawings as the head-gear of
warlike kings nine or ten centuries ago — men who
competed with their lords and barons who should be
first to hew down the opposing foe.

The third mountain is capped with a mitre ; it is
not so perfect as the others, being rather broad in pro-
portion to its height, such as might be expected to have
come from the hands of an inexperienced workman, or
that had suffered through some sacrilegious infidel
having sat on it. Still it is a mitre. Thus we find
capping three adjoining mountains a castle, crown, and
mitre. Strange, wondrous strange, coincidence!

How horrible it is to think that we must eat to live !
I am certain I had quite forgotten that fact when that
abominable William, totally destitute of an eye for the
picturesque or respect for those that had it, disturbs my

128 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

reverie with his whining, snivelling tongue, " Oh, Bass,
I am so hungry!" I should have liked to shove the
open telescope down his throat, and after it got safely
planted shut it up, he would then have something that
would stay his digestion a little longer than beef steaks
or mutton chops.

Imp is commencing to be a good cook if he would
not get the meat so covered with ashes, but n'importe,
it is clean dirt ; he has also an objectionable habit of
licking his fingers after turning the beef steak or mutton
chop, and it strikes me forcibly that he turns them over
a very great deal oftener than is necessary. Eoasting
the potatoes Morris and I generally look after, also
decocting the coffee.

If ever I should have a home and servants like
other folks, I shall insist that it be understood, when
engaging the cook, that I shall have free run and
use of my kitchen. A devilled kidney, a small piece
of tender loin steak, even an anchovy toast, cooked by
one's self at the most outre times, particularly when
it upsets all other persons' arrangements, is certainly
delicious. Try it, reader; but remember to do it on
the sly, not even telling the wife of your bosom. The
perfection of time for the experiment is about half-
past one in the morning, particularly if you have been
spending the evening at your club, and your wife is
fond of going to bed early. Slip into the house quietly:
of course you carry a latch-key ? — it is scarcely necessary
to ask that question — all men do. Having closed the
door by holding back the catch, and then letting it go
gently, for silence is the thing — the utmost silence-
then take off your boots ; if you have slippers at hand
so much the better, but that is not all-important.

A MEAL ON THE QUIET. 129

Now take the banisters firmly in your hand, descend
to the kitchen, out with your fusee-box, and light the
gas. "Bless me, how many black beetles! ugh!"
Never mind that, you soon get accustomed to them.
Then light your fire ; this is best accomplished by
putting innumerable bundles of firewood in the grate,
and lighting them well before you place on the coals ;
in a few minutes you will have a splendid fire fit to
roast an ox. Of course, much of this trouble can be
avoided if you have a gas-stove. Now comes the fun,
hunting in all unknown corners for plates, cruet-stand,
knives, forks, and spoons ; and how you laugh in your
sleeve at all the little eccentricities of domestic economy
you discover ! The meat is nearly done ; put down a plate
to warm ; one turn more and then the food is cooked.
Now dish it; don't burn your fingers with the plate.
Careful; that's it, and you think you never ate anything
better in your life. Oh, for a glass of beer ! you sigh ;
and suddenly remember there is the servants' cask next
the meat-safe in the kitchen hall. Draw what you
want, but remember to turn the tap off. Was ever beer
so welcome ? Never ! One, two, three glasses — stop
there, enough is as good as a feast. Now steal quietly
up to your room, undress like a mouse, and get into
bed. Possibly your wife is sound asleep ; possibly, if
awake, she would rather not remonstrate till the
morning; and possibly you are such a short time
married that the calf-love still exists, and she would not
for the world disturb you ; but it may just be possible
she may insist on explanations at once. Say nothing,
my friend ; you have the joke all in your hands, unless
crying begins, and how to act then I could not advise.
On second thoughts, perhaps a little baby talk, such as
j

130 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

little ducky, tootsey-wootsey, might come in appropriate.
And see, when all is found out in the morning, for of
course it will be, how clever your wife will think you,
how clever all the servants, individually and collectively,
will think you, and in fact you will be justified in con-
sidering yourself no end of a fellow! IST.B. — Don't
take a fourth glass of beer, it will make you hiccough,
and when people do so a suspicion most unjustly some-
times arises that they have taken more than is good
for them.

The above was in effect communicated to me by an
old married man, and is therefore not original. I say
this for my own protection, as ladies are sometimes
testy about advice of this kind being given to their
husbands.

We turned out at daybreak — a glorious morning
with scarcely a cloud to be seen. This portion of the
day on these African uplands is most invigorating, just
sufficiently cold to pull you together, induce you to
take exercise, and stimulate your appetite. Our treck
was a long one, a considerable portion of which
followed the margin of a marsh, in which could be seen
an abundance of waterfowl, prominent among w^hich
was the Kaffir crane, with long streaming black ribbon-
like feathers hanging beside his tail. These plumes are
much valued by the natives, who wear them in their
hair on all State occasions. Immense numbers of these
ornamental and useful birds are shot on this account.
As they are great destroyers of reptiles of all descriptions,
and so are public benefactors, they ought to be protected.
A very large dark-coloured goose, called by the Boers
William-maccow, was also abundant. One of them was
s hot ; it is a gross-looking bird, and when cooked was

HENDRICK AND PATER. 131

anything but appetising. About our encampment
there are building remains, and a quantity of loose
stones, also a few fig-trees — all indicative that a human
habitation once stood in the neighbourhood, but I suppose
proximity to the marsh and probably mosquitoes drove
the inhabitants off to more favoured regions.

Fevers in this part of Africa are only engendered by
the vicinity of stagnant water, so that, although water
is necessary for cattle, and the Boers are essentially
stock-farmers, they will not build except where is to
be found an abundance of water. Each farmer owns
such immense tracts of land that it is rarely a difficult
matter to do this.

The next two days passed over. Neither of us went
in search of game, still, we both picked up something
by the roadside ; in fact, we had scarcely time to hunt,
as our drivers hurried on as fast as the cattle could
travel ; for, remember, their /rows and Jcinderkins were
anxiously awaiting their return, and anticipating with
pleasure the numerous good things that their soil-
stained parents had in store for them.

A point very much to be admired in the Boer
character is their love for wife and children : they
constantly talk of them, and sound their praises to
those they converse with. Hendrick, who was the
chief among our party, was a good-looking man of four-
and- twenty, about five feet ten inches high, rather
sparely built, and capable of great endurance and speed.
He was very retiring, and rarely spoke unless addressed
first. Pater, on the other hand, was short and stout,
always had something to say, unless when playing on
the violin, an instrument that produced the most
doleful sounds — even more so than the cats on the
J 2

132 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

tiles in Pimlico. Their food was of the simplest kind —
rusk-bread as hard as bricks, bad coffee, and indifferent
sugar; no stimulants, and no animal meat. Parsi-
moniousness was doubtless the cause of their not having
the two last articles, for these transport-drivers make a
great deal of money — more than any one at home would
imagine — and are really at little or no expense. But
if they preferred going without to spending their own
money, not a qualm of conscience had they about
sponging on us.

CHAPTEE XIII.

AMONG THE BOERS.

New Year's Day — First Signs of Game — The Spring Buck— Crossing a Spruit
— Rather too much Hospitality — An Invitation to a Wedding — William
Elevated— His Repertoire — The Scene of Rejoicing— William Sober but Sad
— A Vain Attempt to Sleep — Morris in like Predicament — Suffering from
Gnats — Reflections under the Attack — My Cattle in Pound — Released.

NEW YEAR'S DAY. Fine clear weather, and not too
warm. We commenced trecking soon after daybreak ;
the cattle were in excellent spirits, and we got along
right merrily. About seven I shot a hare and a par-
tridge from the road. The former, although severely
wounded, gave the dogs quite a run before it was
captured ; and if it had not been hit none of our pack
could have overtaken it.

About eleven, the first spring bucks we had seen
came over the brow of a swell in the velt ; they were
apparently very tame, although they must have seen
our wagons, oxen, and selves, and evinced more curiosity
than fear.

We intended as soon as we out spanned to have a
shot at them, but before that took place we stuck in a
deep boggy spruit, out of which it required our full
strength and the loss of an hour to extricate the wagon ;
so the cracking of whips, shouting of men, and strug-
gling of the cattle frightened them off to parts unknown .
Thus we had seen the avant-courier of the immense

134 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

herds of game that are before us ; and I do not
think we regretted not having caused some of their
numbers to bite the dust. If we had been short of
food it would have been different, but we had still an
abundance of that necessary.

I have seen the spring-buck before ; and although I
had only time to take a casual glance at them on this
occasion, they seemed to look more beautiful than
ever they did previously. There is no doubt that they
are among the handsomest animals in the world, and
are to the African continent what the prong-horned
antelope is to the American. There is also a consider-
able resemblance between them in configuration of
body, only that of the New World is the larger.

During our midday outspan the halt was taken
advantage of to get our rifles unpacked and put in
order, for at any moment now we might find ourselves
in the middle of game. At three o'clock we inspanned,
and came down a rather steep and difficult hill-side.
When we reached the bottom we found that the spruit
where the road crossed it was impassable, so we had
to make a long detour to our right to find a ford.
After proceeding nearly a mile we discovered a place
which had been used for this purpose previously, so the
cattle were wheeled abruptly at it, Umganey, divested
of every particle of clothing, foreloping.

No person who has not witnessed what a Cape
wagon can go through would believe that anything
constructed of wood and iron would stand such usage
as they have to be subjected to, without breaking.
All the cattle were now in the water up to their
stomachs, pulling their utmost, William on the box
cracking his long whip and shouting as if life and death

LESSONS IN DRIVING. 135

depended on the issue, when in goes the wagon down
the precipitous spongy bank with such a rush as nearly
to bury the forepart of the box under water ; the hind
wheels soon after follow, the whole fabric swaying to
and fro, threatening an upset; then slowly righting
itself, it moves forward at a snail's pace. The far side
is almost reached when snap ! goes the treck-tow, and
the released oxen rush up the bank, leaving the wagon
so deeply buried that but for its heavy load it would
have almost floated.

To rectify the breaking of the treck-tow is always a
tedious job, for when out of the reach of a blacksmith
a green reim has to be procured and woven in and out
through three or four of the links on either side of the
fracture. Seeing that half an hour at least must elapse
before we could extricate ourselves, Morris took his gun
and went down the spruit in search of wildfowl, while
I remained to assist William and to learn all the devices
necessary for getting wagons out of difficulties under
any circumstances that may arise.

I did not expect ever to become a good driver ; still
without being so, when alone on the velt and no
European to assist, I might be able to detect at a glance
what would be the proper means to adopt under emer-
gencies, and, if necessary, show how to do it. On a
cargo of knowledge you do not require to pay any
freight.

Our predicament was worse than we anticipated ;
the delay had allowed the wagon to settle in the
soft spongy bottom, so that all the efforts of our cattle
could not move it. But Hendrick had now come
up ; disrobing himself till he was in the costume of
ancient Gaul, he brought his sturdy team over, hitched

136 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

his treck-tow to the end of ours, and with a long pull
and a pull together, placed us on the opposite bank.

This spruit was a very bad place, for, independent
of its abruptness, it was so marshy that the wheels
sunk many inches underneath the surface of the soil.

Hendrick's wagon followed and got through without
casualty, but not without a hard struggle ; Pater was
less fortunate ; not only did he stick, but even with
the assistance of Hendrick's team he could not get
out, so the third team (ours) had to be put on, and even
then the cattle seemed to have a very difficult part to
perform. At last all were across ; we pushed up the
opposing bank, and after half an hour's treck halted
in front of a white farmhouse, with large cattle kraal
attached.

We had scarcely done so when Morris came up ;
he had several ducks, the common species of this part
of the country (Querquedula Hottentota of Smith), which
are a handsome dark-brown colour, not distinguished
by any gaudy feathers, and about the size of our
widgeon. After a survey of the game I went over
to the house, which I found crowded with Boers, all
pretty well aon." As soon as I entered, the senior
of the party asked me to drink with him, which I
did, driver William acting as interpreter. No sooner,
however, had I finished the first glass, than another
requested me to repeat the operation. I hate to refuse
hospitality, for certainly this was meant as such, and
I drank again ; but when a third insisted that I should
have a glass at his expense, I was compelled to refuse.
Flesh and blood can stand a great deal, but not much
bad Hollands. These men were keeping New Year,
the great holiday, with them, of the twelve months.

WILLIAM "OVERCOME." 137

But here their kindness did not terminate : there
was a grand party going on at a house four or five
miles farther along the road, in consequence of a marriage
that had taken place, and to this we were cordially
invited ; and as an inducement to accept the invitation,
we were informed that a young English lady was one
of the guests. I gave a conditional promise, for I did
not know how Morris would feel on the subject, and
without him I was resolved not to go. However, all
the Boers immediately afterwards assembled outside
on horseback, ranged themselves in a line across the
road, like a troop of cavalry, and giving a war-whoop,
started for the scene of rejoicings as fast as spur and
whip would make their steeds go.

Poor William had drunk with every one, On our
numerous good qualities he largely expatiated : we were
so fond of him — we loved him like a brother — without
him we never could have crossed the Drackenberg—
and we most assuredly should come to see the English
young lady. This was all well enough ; but when I
had to assist William — no light weight — and with the
help of Hendrick and Pater hoist him on the wagon-
box, I thought the jocular part was played out.

The road was straight, the track well defined; so
with Umganey foreloping, and myself on the box with
a powerful jambock to control the after-cattle, we got
on so-so. William was a long time attacked with a
musical furore : foreign songs appeared his forte, but
in his list I could neither recognise "Die Wacht am
Bhein," "Partant pour la Syrie," nor the " Marseillaise ;"
however, he appeared to have a very extensive repertoire.
After completing his musical performance he became
loquacious — gave me a slight sketch of his antecedents

138 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

and his relatives, both male and female ; then spoke as
to his own ability, ending each sentence with, "la
good man," which no one denied; but the oftener he
repeated it the more emphatic he became. At length
there was a long silence. I hoped that he had com-
menced to see the error of his ways, and was inter-
nally vowing to sin no more ; that his conscience
told him he was a transgressor; and that silently he
contemplated the heinousness of his past conduct.

Presently we passed the scene of rejoicings ; the
windows were all ablaze, such as you see at Buckingham
Palace when a Court ball is taking place. Let me
remark, en passant, that so well do they manage these
things here, that they had neither soldiers nor police
to resist the mob or make the conveyances keep order.

We did not halt, but passed on to the next out-
spanning-place ; before we reached which, our wagon
stuck in a spruit, and all the efforts of two teams of
cattle could not extricate us. So there we had to make
up our minds to remain all night.

Half-an-hour after the abrupt halt we had been
brought to, William presented himself; his expression
was sad, his clothing disordered. I expected nothing
more than that he had come to ask me to examine the
medicine chest and give him a bolus or skilfully mixed
draft of the most potent ingredients. With a due pause,
sufficient to give dignity to his words, in very measured
and very concise terms, he said, "Bass, I am so
hungry ! " With gravity becoming the occasion I
referred him to Imp.

That day had been one of great excitement- I am
not in the pristine heyday of youth ; I have got over
the vanities attached to dress, or the questionable

UNABLE TO SLEEP. 139

longing for decorations ; nor do I now crave to dance
with the belle of the ball, or take the intimate friend of
the hostess — an heiress, possessed of the wealth of the
Indies — down to dinner. No ; in the language of the
poet, beautiful and expressive, " I am simmering down,"
therefore I wished to go to bed, and so did my friend.

There was no reason why we should not do so that I
am aware of ; in truth, we had both got into our pan-
jamas, and I was having the last few "draws" of my
pipe before turning on my left side, when William raised
the curtain of the wagon and begged to know if we were
not going to attend the convivialities. Being most em-
phatically answered in the negative, we were informed
that he was going. Very nearly was I saying, " Gro, and
be hanged," but politeness, an intuitive feeling by
which we never lose anything, and strongly inculcated
into me in my youth, caused me to pause ; therefore I
only said, "By all means, William; but pray see that
the cattle are tied up." William retired, assuring me
that that would be his first duty.

I had finished my pipe, and was composing myself
to sleep on the left side ; thoughts of the disappoint-
ment the English Beauty would suffer by the two
knight-errant s of her own race not waiting on her being
uppermost in my mind. Still, I did not sleep. I there-
fore tried the right side, but two or three reports of guns
took place immediately afterwards, so still I did not
sleep. I again reverted to the original position — it was
unquestionably the right way to rest — and lay still,
how long I don't know, but an age it appeared. Yet
I did not sleep, so I tried my back, and endeavoured
to count the hoops that supported the roof of the
wagon.

140 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

" You're not asleep ? " said a gentle voice.

" No, no — that is/' endeavouring to pretend that
if not actually asleep I was next door to it.

" I can't sleep," said the speaker ; " it's no use, I
have turned every way, and, tired as I am, I cannot
sleep."

Inhuman monster that I am, I was delighted that
some one else was situated in the same disagreeable
position as myself.

" Can't you, though ? " said I, pitying his misfor-
tunes, not acknowledging my own ; " what can be the
cause ? "

" Mosquitoes, I think."

" No, I have not heard any."

" Neither have I," said my friend.

So I got up and lit the lamp, quite out of com-
miseration for him, of course, and oh ! oh ! oh ! the
whole interior of the wagon was swarming with millions
of the most diminutive gnats. They were on the bed-
clothes, on the wagon roof, and when I looked at my
legs and arms I commenced to think that instead of a
white man I was a pepper-and-salt-coloured one.

We both sat up and entered into conversation, and
were jolly on the subject, it was such a good joke.
Scratch myself ? No ; a man of my calibre is above such
weakness ; but human patience could stand it no longer.
I resolved to have one scratch ; I did — one, two, three
scratches, and the remainder of an hour was one unin-
terrupted scratch. At this time a happy thought struck
me — I will get the rum and bathe my whole body with
it. I did so, but the wretches were not only fond of the
human species, but also fond of what the human species
is partial to. I did not wait to see if I had been con-

SUFFERING FROM AN ATTACK OF GNATS. 141

verted into a black man, but rushed into my clothes,
seized my pipe, and hurried to the highest ground I
could find, and on a higher than it — the summit of an
ant-hill — I sat down and thought — and thought how
weak we were when a few midges could tickle us so.
So great was my affection for my friend that I never
thought of seeing what he did or how he was getting
on ; I had too much regard for his feelings to disturb
him when suffering from human weakness.

Aurora's car was about to enter the east when
William, the faithful and tried henchman, approached his
lord and master, and after making a respectful obeisance,
informs him that the enemy during the night had made
a descent and carried off all his lordship's cattle, which,
at the present moment, were being conveyed to the
pound at Harrismith.

" Zounds, varlet, you lie ! "

" No, Bass, I speak the truth."

" Order my horse to be saddled and marshal my
followers ; begone ! do my bidding."

I rushed to the wagon, pulled on my boots, buckled on
my long sword, saddle, bridle — or, rather, took my rifle,
shoved a revolver into the holsters, and was about to
jump into the saddle, when an emissary of the foe
arrived to say the cattle would be released on payment
of two pounds sterling, although they had eaten over
an acre of mealies. The money was paid, the cattle
were returned, and I rejoiced that I was prevented from
shedding blood.

CHAPTEE XIV.

GAME, GAME, NOTHING BUT GAME.

The Dutchman of South Africa— His 'Cuteness— How He Works the Oracle—
My Soreness at -being "Done" — We start after Game — My Gillie — A
Persistent Dog — Elaborate Preparations to Discover Buck — Magnificent
Sight — The Dog Spoils Everything — Is Slaughtered, but by Accident —
Morris again Indisposed — Pony Attacked by a Snake — The Puff- Adder —
About Snakes — A Splendid Chase — Bob comes to Grief and Bonte doesn't
Bag his Quarry — " Murderous " Sport — The Butchers at Work — Goran —
Mending and Tailoring — The Sewing Machine a Doubtful Blessing — The
Birds of South Africa — Morris to be looked after.

TRULY the Dutchman of South Africa is a strange
being ; he is neither flesh, fish, nor good red herring, all
of which I am more or less acquainted with; but one
thing I can say as far as regards myself, whether he
acts the manly part or the stupid part, the insignificant
part or the cowardly part, when you settle difficulties
with him you are morally certain to owe him money.
I do not know how it is, but they are always dinning
into your ears that they are so weak, so innocent, that
you believe them the most abused class in the world ;
your suspicions are consequently lulled and your sym-
pathies aroused, and thus you forget, or rather dislike,
to show them that you disbelieve their assertions by
exercising necessary prudence.

Many of my countrymen live among them and
make fortunes. Heaven help me if I had a fortune to
spend and lived amongst them! I would soon get rid of
it. They don't " do " you like a Yorkshireman, a Glasgow-

TAKEN IN BY A. BOER. 143

man, a Yankee, or a Blue -nose ; their little dodges you
can learn with experience, but the Boer does it and
you never learn how he works the oracle. Bah ! I'll
think no more about them, if it was not that in my
opinion a man born north of the Tweed should never
be done by any one.

We trecked on the following day, and at noon,
during the halt, had every blanket out in the sun, and
every stitch of raiment removed from our feverish
bodies. I rode on in front, and although several shots
presented themselves, I was too occupied in thought to
avail myself of the opportunities.

No, I had been taken advantage of ; the enemy had
come like a thief in the night, and as a reward had the
two gold sovereigns in his pocket. I wished sincerely
that he might spend them at the low grog-shop where
we halted yesterday, and be suitably punished by
the liquor which his ill-gotten gains could purchase.
It is no use grieving over spilt milk, not a bit, so I
shall make up my mind to think no more of it ; but it
is hard to know that there are people who would take
advantage of a young man from the (old) country like
me, and in the middle of a desolate uninhabited velt,
walk your cattle off to Harrismith. Harrismith ! I
hate the very name now.

When we outspanned that evening there was game,
spring-buck and bless -buck round us in every direction ;
but as it was late and we had made a very long treck,
we determined not to trouble them that evening, but be
"up in the morning early, before the break of day."

A cup of cocoa and a biscuit sufficed, when off we
started, Morris going one way and I the reverse. Each
took an attendant. My gillie was a Kaffir that we

144 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

had picked up at Eland river ; he had all the vices of
the white man and none of the virtues of his own race.
I and my Day-and-Martin-skinned Ganymede had not
gone over a quarter of a mile, when we discovered that
the black hitch that I have spoken of before was
following us. Oberon tried to coax her to him, but no,
she knew too much (she was an Africander dog). Then
I tried ; I spoke in the pleasantest tones and used the
most endearing terms, but she refused to listen to the
voice of the charmer; so she was peremptorily ordered
home, and several rocks — not stones — hurled at her.
All was useless, she would go with us, yet she would
not be one of us. I crossed a ridge and quietly
ascended the slope of another. On hands and knees I
carefully crawled to the sky-line; as I approached it
I resembled the tortoise in pace and the serpent in
stealthiness. At last I reached the summit, and was
about to look over. I thought it would be better to
take off my cap first, to get more range of vision with
less elevation. I did so, and then remembered that my
head was bald and very polished, and as the sun was
behind me the light might reflect off it ; deeming
that would not do, I accordingly plucked a handful of
grass, and placing it on the top of my pate, inch
by inch I raised myself; very little more would
do it, very little ; so half -inch by half- inch I pushed
myself upwards. The grass on my head was now above
the ridge ; very little more would elevate my eyes suffi-
ciently to command the view ; on a rough calculation
three-quarters of an inch and one barleycorn. Would
you believe it? So cautious was I that it took four
minutes and a half to accomplish this. My eyes had
attained sufficient altitude, and Well, then, no

AN IRREPRESSIBLE DOG. 145

buck was there. The next hill we treated in exactly
the same manner, but when we looked over a lagoon of
water was discovered beneath us, with hundreds of wild
beasts, bless-buck, and spring-buck, standing knee-deep,
enjoying its refreshing influences ; many of them were
within two hundred and forty yards, but as I felt con-
vinced that Morris or some of the Boers would bring
home game, I desisted firing, and enjoyed looking at
their playful antics and innocent gambols. But con-
found that black dog ! she saw the game and dashed at
it. In a moment all was confusion, for in an instant
after they deployed into one unbroken line and made
for a point to my right front, where the track bent.
Making the best spurt I could, I rushed forward under
shelter to cut them off, or at least see them cross the
road. I was in time, and a prettier sight I never saw,
for with one accord in succession they cleared it at a
bound ; and strange to say, although within one
hundred and fifty yards of them, I never looked along
my barrel, or thought of doing so. I shall remember
that sight as long as I live, and shall not the less enjoy
it when I think that I witnessed it without murderous
intentions. If I and my people had required food I
should not have hesitated, but three better hunters than
myself were out to kill game, and I knew they would
not come home empty-handed.

On my way back to the wagons, about seven o'clock,
I saw a solitary spring- buck in a hollow. I made a stalk
up-wind to observe its habits, when the brute of a dog,
watching my movements, got on an ant-heap, and dis-
covered the game I wished to approach. With a bound
she rushed down the face of the slope, and both spring-
buck and hound disappeared over the neighbouring rise.
K

146 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

In a few minutes the abominable dog came back.
She would neither allow herself to be caught nor driven
home, so I took the smooth-bore from my Kaffir's
hands — it was loaded with 'No. 5 shot — and as she
skulked round at about eighty yards' distance, I deter-
mined to give her a reminder that when her company
was not required, she had better not tender it against
my will. I certainly did not mean to kill her, but I
wished to hurt her, so I fired ; she gave one bound in
the air, a spasmodic struggle, and all was over. For
what had happened I was sorry, but the brute brought
it on herself. With Morris I discussed the matter
afterwards, and the universal verdict was — served her
right.

How many buck were killed that morning I do not
remember, but my friend had been most successful.
However, it took our own Kaffirs, and many friends and
relations picked up. by the roadside — for when there
was meat forthcoming there were always relations to be
found — two days to consume it. The skins of spring-
buck are too delicate to be tanned, consequently are
thrown away.

Morris indisposed again, showing feverish symptoms,
and a very rapid pulse. As there is game all round
about the wagons he wanted to go after it. I persuaded
him not to, but keep under the wagon-tent out of the
sun. I fear all I can say is of no use, for he will not
believe that he is half as bad as I represent.

As soon as we outspanned I had the saddle put on
the Basuto pony, and, taking Bonte and Bob with me,
rode round a neighbouring hill to see what quantity of
game there was at the back of it. Being attracted by
the beauty of a new orchid, I dismounted to examine it,

A SNAKE ADVENTURE. 147

and having done so, not being in a hurry, I slipped my
arm through the hridle and walked leisurely forward.
Bob was about ten yards in front of me, pursuing the
same course, when suddenly he jumped on one side. I
knew it was a snake that had alarmed him, so, dropping
my reins, I proceeded to discover of what breed it
was, and if possible destroy it. It was the small species
of the puff-adder — the horned puff-adder — the cerastes, I
believe, of the ancients, and which is represented to have
been the reptile used by Cleopatra to compass her own
destruction. It was lying on some bare sand, in the
usual figure of 8 shape, a favourite attitude with all this
family. I imagine their great thickness in proportion
to their length is the reason they do not coil themselves
up as other species do. The creature in question I soon
dispatched with a stone, and examined the glands, which
were surcharged with poison. The Boers and Kaffirs
consider this one of the most poisonous of the numerous
reptiles of this country. While speaking of snakes,
another species, well known in the colony as the sheep-
sticker, and pronounced to be very poisonous, from ex-
amination of specimens that I have killed, I am inclined
to believe innocuous. On one occasion I saw a cat
catch one in a lady's drawing-room, and so far did
puss seize it from the head, that if the creature had
been venomous its destroyer's life would have been
sacrificed.

On returning to the pony, and taking hold of the
reins, as soon as I advanced my hand to his head-stall
to reverse them over his neck, he shied back as if in
great alarm, and it required some minutes before he
would permit me to closely approach. The reason of
this conduct in so staid and proper-minded an animal
K 2

148 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

is obvious ; in handling the adder, some of the smell
attached to its body must have adhered to my hands.
How great and wise are the provisions of nature !

Besides the virulence of the puff-adder, there is
another reason why it is more to be dreaded than the
majority of other snakes. It is almost exactly the
colour of the dark-brown sand, and is invariably to be
found on it, with the lower part of the body slightly
submerged in it. Again nature's wondrous handiwork
shows itself ; for if the colour of the ground and reptile
did not closely approximate, how could so sluggish an
animal obtain its prey ? True, it can make one short
quick spring, but it cannot crawl over the ground with
the swiftness of other species.

Leaving the snakes alone (and a man who hunts in
Africa will never be successful if he fears a snake in
every bush or under every tuft of grass he passes, for
his eyes must be elsewhere than watching his feet), I
mounted the pony, and continued round the point of the
hill. As I climbed one slope I saw several spring-buck
and bless -buck go over the opposite ridge ; so, bearing
off more to the right, so as to improve the wind, I
cautiously advanced in the direction I thought they had
taken. A large rock lay in my route, and under its
shelter I left the pony, and keeping both dogs close to
me, I carefully approached the crest with cocked rifle.
A spring-buck, unconscious of my presence, stood three
hundred yards off ; at least, I judged that to be about
the distance. I took a cool collected aim, and pressed
the trigger ; the ball passed over its back ; with the re-
port a bless-buck, which must have been within fifty
yards of me, jumped up ; the dogs saw it in an instant,
and were in pursuit, while I greeted the quarry with

A SPLENDID RUN. 149

a couple of old-country hunting cheers. At first the
hounds gained rapidly on their game, and I expected
every moment to see Bob pin it by the ear, when he put
his foot in a meercat hole, and completed two or three
somersaults before he could pick himself up. Poor
fellow ! he had no heart or power to go farther ; for, on
three legs, with a woeful countenance he came to my
side. In the meantime Bonte was making a famous
race of it — several times I expected to see him lay hold ;
once he did spring at the quarry's ear, but it artfully
avoided the attack. Twice more the buck was com-
pelled to turn to avoid being pinned; but the pace
commenced to tell ; the antelope was in condition and
the dog was not ; so, willing in spirit but weak of body,
he had to give up the chase ; and a splendid run it was,
although there was no death at the finish.

But now I have time to examine poor Bob, who has
enjoyed looking at the run quite as much as myself.
" Wo, old man, wo !" — for know, gentle reader, that he
is a queer-tempered beast — " there, that will do ; your
shoulder is not out of joint as I expected, but you are
badly shaken; yes, old man" — why, surly Bob has
actually licked my hand after putting him to so much
pain.

By the time I was mounted and ready to go on,
Bonte came up, looking rather shame-facey, as the
Chinamen say, still showing from his outstretched
tongue and quivering limbs how hard he had tried to
do his best.

Why did I miss my shot ? I hear asked. I incor-
rectly judged the distance, believing the spring-buck
to be farther off than it was. In Africa it is cur-
rently believed that you more frequently undershoot

150 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

on account of the rarefication of the atmosphere.
This is quite a mistake in my experience, and Morris
complained to me of making the same error.

Hearing some shots off to the right, I rode half
a mile in that direction, and witnessed a most de-
structive, I should say murderous, way of shooting.
On a spring-cart — a conveyance not unlike an ex-
aggerated tax-cart — were four Boers, each armed with
a rifle : between the horses' heads was a Kaffir, leading
them when required, and halting as directed. In front
of the butchers was a large drove of several hundred
spring-buck densely packed together, their distance
from the shooters being about four hundred yards. Into
this living phalanx these unfeeling monsters were keep-
ing up a steady fusilade. Their success was all that
such characters could desire, I regret to say.

After leaving the Boers I found the game so wild
that I shot no more, although I must have seen many
thousand head of buck in the three hours that I was
absent from the wagons.

Just after we commenced to treck, Morris took the
old pointer and one of the smooth-bore guns, and in
a quarter of an hour shot six or seven coran. These
are a splendid bird about the size of the hen caper-
cailzie, and are excellent eating : they lay fairly to
a dog, and require a lot of hitting. At night and
morning they call incessantly, invariably when doing
so being perched on the top of an ant-hill. At that
time they are difficult to approach nearer than within
eighty or ninety yards.

Of this genus I have found four distinct species, the
largest and best being possessed of a beautiful chestnut-
brown plumage, but without bars on its wings : weight

SUGGESTED ORIGIN OF THE SEWING-MACHINE. 151

about 7 Ibs. The next in size is black ; very much like
our black game, with the exception of the tail : weight
about 5^ Ibs. The third is brown; only about one
pound lighter in weight than the black. The fourth is
about the size of a cock red grouse ; more thickly built,
and disposed to sit much more closely than the others.
The first and last frequent bushes and corn-fields ;
the other two, the open velt. Their call is exactly
like their name, co-ran. They belong to the bustard
family.

Although plenty of game was in sight the following
day, and several spring-buck were shot by the drivers,
I did not leave the wagons, work being cut out for
me in the shape of clothes-washing, mending, &c. &c. ;
and it is perfectly surprising, if you neglect to attend
to it, how the labour accumulates. "A stitch in time
saves nine" is as true an adage as ever was spoken.
The seam of one of the legs of my trousers had a rip
an inch long. I postponed attending to it for a couple
of days ; and when I did, it required quite a foot of
sewing. Sewing-machines are the invention of the
evil one, I believe ; for if the end of a thread that
has been stitched by them once gets loose, there is no
knowing where it will stop. My African experience
has taught me quite a wrinkle : after you wash your
moleskin coat and trousers, rinse them out in a solu-
tion of Condy's disinfecting powder and water. It
has the effect of making them a grand stalking
colour, and thoroughly cleanses them of all animal
matter.

We broke up camp early next morning, and in two
trecks reached K-hinoster river. During the greater
portion of the day we kept disturbing a pretty little

152 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

bird about the size of a starling. It possesses a dark
back, with lighter colouring underneath, and is a true
lark. When the leading oxen would approach where it
rested, it would abruptly flush, fly about thirty yards,
then rise perpendicularly ten or fifteen feet, soar for
a few seconds, and drop suddenly with closed wings
into the velt.

It had no carol like our home musician, still uttered
a pretty, musical, and lonely note, ptweet, ptweet,
ptweet. It has been described by the ornithologist
Smith, and is well known to the Boers. Some of
the birds of South Africa certainly are most brilliant
in plumage, particularly the bee-eater family, but, as
a rule, they are less so than the birds of Mexico and
South America. Another thing I would note, that
although few of the birds in Southern America sing,
many of those here do, and very sweetly ; but it
takes some time before the ear gets tuned to their
voice.

Just before sunset we arrived at our halting-place :
game seemed to be very abundant about it. In fact,
some coran flew over the oxen while being unyoked,
so Morris and I went after them. The hour was too
late, and they were so wild we could not get within
gun-shot.

About a hundred and fifty yards from the wagons
was a pond about an acre in extent ; a dozen ducks
dropped into it, so I crawled behind some bushes, and
caused William to go on the reverse side and flush them,
thus driving them down on me. Into them I fired both
barrels and knocked down five. Those that were shot
dead soon drifted ashore ; but the wounded gave William
a most amusing chase, for sometimes he was up to his

MORRIS BECOMES WORSE. 153

waist in water. They were the Hottentot duck pre-
viously described, and are an excellent addition to the
larder.

Morris, who will, in spite of remonstrance, keep
moving about, is worse to-night. We cannot be more
than seventy miles distant from Potschefstrom, where
I am informed good medical advice can be obtained —
news for which I am most thankful.

CHAPTEE XY.

PAT MOLLOY MORRIS BROKEN DOWN.

Hendrick's Splendid Shot — An Amusing Chase — Unearthing a Ratel — Search
for " Vater " — A Comical but Inhospitable Old Woman — " Is it Water ye
mane ? " — A Drop of the Crathur—My Talk with Pat — " A Great Day for
Ireland intirely " — Mrs. Molloy — Our Dissel-boom comes to Grief — Boers
" Flitting " — The Head of the Procession — Ostriches not such Fools as they
Look — Ostriches on the Offensive — How to Capture Them — The Vaal River
— Making a Dissel-boom — In the Transvaal at Last — Charon — A Dear
Bottle of Brandy — Getting the Cattle over the River — Poonah and his
Little Tricks — Morris's Dislike to him — Potschefstrom — Imp absquatulates
— A Queer Set of Physicians — Morris has to Return Home for his Health —
Farewell — Alone.

HENDRICK possesses a very old double rifle, about
sixteen-bore, although it shows the ravages of time and
neglect, yet any one experienced in firearms can see
at a glance that it has been once a splendid weapon.
It bears the name of Purdey — no bad guarantee for a
gun forty years ago. With this antiquated specimen
of firearms he made a splendid shot this morning. The
road, which here is straight and running due north,
has on the left three bluffs projecting into the velt
at a distance of 500 yards from the track. There were
some spring-buck feeding, not all together, but scat-
tered ; he selected the nearest, and at a range of 400
yards bowled it over dead. Goran are here also very
abundant, and with little trouble a heavy bag of them
could be made.

The monotony of our journey was broken by a most
amusing chase. The old pointer, who had struck the

UNEARTHING A RATEL. 155

trail of something, commenced to give tongue ; every
dog in consequence rushed to her assistance, and com-
menced beating the heavy grass with such care and
assiduity, that it was perfectly certain to all that some
wild animal was in the vicinity. In consequence the
wagons were halted, and drivers and Kaffirs alike went
to discover what could be the unknown beast. After a
time a hole was found, larger than an ordinary badger-
earth, and the zeal of the dogs over it, and their desire
to get into it, were truly absurd. However, big brutes
like Bonte and Bob had no chance, but the little
pointer had, so she bit the earth, scraped with her feet,
and snapped at every dog that came near enough to
impede her movements. William went for the pick,
and having discovered the direction in which the hole
led, dug down upon it. He had excavated about two
feet when out he jumped, the pointer took his place,
scratched for a moment, then made a grab, and holding
on like grim death, partially dragged from the shelter a
large black body. Next Bonte and then Bob got a
grip of the unknown beast, and between them all it
was dragged up on the velt. It was a regular repetition
of " pull devil, pull baker ; " the plucky little pointer if
anything displaying the most venom. The smell that
arose around the scene of combat was most fearful,
almost as bad as an American skunk's. Between blows
from the whip-handles, and worrying from the dogs,
the unfortunate was ultimately killed. It turned out
to be a very large ratel, certainly quite, if not over, the
size of a full-grown otter. The dogs of course got
saturated with this dreadful liquid used as a weapon of
defence, and they smelt so abominably as for days to
perfume the wagons.

156 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

After our midday meal, I started forward on
horseback to find out whether the ford of the
Vaal river was passable, or whether it would be
necessary to go lower down the stream to where
there was a punt.

The nature of the country was much changed; instead
of the flat velt covered with grass, the whole surface
of the country is a succession of hills, clothed with
dwarf timber. In consequence of this alteration in the
landscape I lost my way, and wandered some time, yet
hoping to find a track leading to the river, which I
was aware must be due north.

At length I struck the trail of a wagon, which
following up brought me first to a cattle kraal, then
through an orchard, and afterwards to two houses, one
inhabited, the other going through the course of con-
struction. I went to the door of the former, and there
met an old man ; I asked for vater, and he shouted to
some one within, " Faterf" with stentorian lungs. At
length an aged woman came out, looked at me, gave a
grunt, and turned on her heel. My appearance, it was
quite certain, did not please her. Prom her expression
I was satisfied that I should have to go without a
drink. I was about to give up the task as hopeless,
when she came again to the door, took a long stare
and snorted, then retired into the interior of her
dwelling.

She was the most comical-looking old woman I had
ever seen ; her height was equal to her breadth, and
round her face hung a fringe of diminutive white curls.
For a quarter of an hour I waited, still neither she nor
the water came. In the adjoining tenement I heard
hammering, and an occasional snatch of " The Wearing

A FRIENDLY IRISHMAN. 157

of the Green," then a pause. Soon, in a deep sonorous
voice, broke out —

" And I met with -Napper Tandy,
And he took me by the hand," <fec.

" That's the place for my money," I inwardly
thought. " There is no making a mistake what country
owns the possessor of that voice." So I took the pony
by the bridle and looked in through the door; there I
saw a man nailing up laths quite after the orthodox
plasterer fashion.

" Good morning to you, Pat," said I.

" Good morning to you kindly," said he.

" Can I get a drink of water ? " I inquired.

"Is it water you mane ? lashings and leavings about
here."

So he jumped off his perch in search of the liquid
I required. Soon he returned with an ample supply.

Producing my flask, I took a mild drink — his eyes
were on me all the time.

" Would you like a drop ? " I asked.

" Would a duck swim ? " was the response.

So I poured out a stiff quantity and handed it to
him. With a gulp he swallowed it ; then with a grin,
" That's the illigant stuff ; I'm thinking you fetched it
from the ould counthry." Of him I made inquiries as
to my route, the most expeditious way of getting to it ;
to all of which he gave me satisfactory answers.

When about to take my departure, he threw down
his hammer and nails, put on his coat, and exclaimed,
" Begorra ! that's the last nail I'll drive this blessed
day ! If the negurs (meaning the Boers) are in a
hurry, they had better do it thimselves."

158 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

"I'm sorry I interrupted you/'

" Niver a bit ! I'm glad to see you ; and a mile or
two more or less to show you your way will only be
friendly."

So in company we started. This was the best stage
Irishman I ever saw, au nature! : he was as perfect as
Dion Boucicault in Miles na Cappaleen ; even his stick
and his clothes had a Donnybrook Fair cut about them
truly refreshing.

"And how do you like this country?" I asked.

" Like it, is it ? Tell me the man that knows ould
Ireland would like any foreign part," thinkingly he
said.

" Yes, Ireland is a pretty place," said I.

"And you know it, thin?" — expressed by him very
thoughtfully.

" Nearly all."

" And when were you there last ?"

" Not for three or four years."

" Do you know Dublin ?"

" I do."

"AndKildare?"

" Yes ; and Baletore, and Naas, and Maynooth."
And at every new name I uttered his face expanded
further and further, till he could contain himself no
longer, but gave an "Hurrouch!" and brandished his
stick as if he had " got the fever on " (an expression in
use in America when Irishmen want to fight).

After subsiding a little, he gravely remarked, " This
is a great day for Ireland intirely ! "

did not deny the fact, although I could scarcely
see how the " gem of the sea " was to be affected by the
present casual meeting.

MRS. PATRICK MOLLOY. 159

To change the conversation, I inquired, "Are you
married ? "

"Married is it?"

"Yes."

" Well, thin, I am. Mrs. Molloy is what they calls
a fine female ; if size makes fineness, thin she is. Be-
gorra ! I wish I had her in Dublin to show at a pinny
ahead!"

" Is she as big as the mistress down below?"

" As big as that ould omadawn ! May I never tell
a lie, she'd make two of her ! "

" You should be very happy."

" Maybe I am, maybe I'm not ; but if I had to
begin agin I'd sooner have the little finger of Nancy
Murphy than all the Dutch froics in Africa. It's not
joking I am — sorra a word of joke I'm saying."

On Pat led me the matter of two miles, walking at
such a pace as to keep the pony in a trot. In front
of a large farmhouse he stopped, telling me to remain
where I ,was and he would go in and make inquiries.
He did so, and soon returned with the information that
the ford was impassable, and that the wagons must go
to the ferry.

Just then the wagons came up, and, right or
wrong, Pat must stand me a drink, and "the other
jintlemen," meaning the drivers. So he stood it, and
they stood it, till time was up, and the wagons must
go forward, for several miles were yet to be passed
before the outspanning-place was reached. The last
saw of Pat was going towards his home — his step was
light and springy; and the last I heard of him was
something or other always terminating with —
"And my name is Pat Molloy !"

160 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

" It was a great day for Ireland intirely!" he re-
peated to Hendrick and Pater and William three or
four times at least ; and those worthies thought that if
a country was to be affected by my conduct, I was cer-
tainly a big man and deserving of great respect. There
was a marked change in their manner towards me from
that day.

A short treck over a very bad road brought us at
length close to the Yaal river, when William, making
a short turn and attempting to take the wagon over a
grip caused by sun-cracks, broke the dissel-boom about
a foot from where it enters the eye. I was present
when the accident happened, and it was the result of
utter carelessness. So, as might be expected, I did
not bless him; no, on the reverse, I pitched into
him most sharply. I was able to do this now, for
if the worst had come to the worst, I could have
myself driven to Potschefstrom, for I had not lived
the last month for nothing. Again, it was too near
pay-day for him to take serious notice of what I said.
A splice, therefore, had to be constructed to get us
to the margin of the river, still some miles off; and
as this is ever a tedious operation, we were engaged on
it upwards of two hours.

While thus employed, several families of trecking
Boers passed us, their wives, families, stock, and lares
and penates being all with them. They were a rough
and dirty -looking lot, still well-grown, not bad-looking,
people. The women wear a greased white cloth tied
close over their faces, covering all from the eyes to
the end of the chin. This is supposed to be a pro-
tection to their complexions, and gives a very strong
reminder to the observer of Turkish women in their

ABOUT OSTRICHES. 161

zarmack at Constantinople. Mixed among their flocks
and herds were a great number of tame ostriches, both
young and old. This addition had a very quaint and
unusual effect — something, truly, that European eyes are
quite unacquainted with, whether in reality or picture.

These strange birds generally stalked at the head
of the procession, and appeared to be on most excellent
terms with all the domestic animals. Occasionally one
would deviate to the right or left of the track to peck a
mouthful of grass, but as soon as the driver would leave
the road and shout at it, it would immediately fall into
its proper place and march forward with the utmost
demure gravity, as if to be guilty of an infringement of
rules was the last thing it would think of. Ostriches
always have an intensely stupid look, but they are not
nearly such fools as the uninitiated would take them
for ; and although the most timid creatures on the
earth when in a state of nature, in captivity or when
domesticated they are bold and dangerous, more espe-
cially the males. Horse or rider indiscriminately they
will attack, walking up to the object of their indigna-
tion with a quiet, measured stride, never evincing for a
moment the slightest evidence of hostility — in fact,
looking such fools that no one would imagine them
capable of inimical ideas — when with a quick movement,
done with great strength and velocity, they raise their
foot and -strike forward, the edges of the toes being so
sharp that they will cut your clothes the whole length
of the stroke. As they are too valuable to be knocked
on the head, perhaps you turn to run from them, but
their speed is such that an attempt thus to elude them is
useless. The only plan then to be pursued is to throw
yourself down, and lie still on your face or back. They

162 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

cannot kick you in these positions, but they will jump
on you and trample all over you. While this operation
is going on you. may give vent to your feelings and
satisfy your self-esteem by bestowing upon them a few
reminders that two can play the same game.

By the time the Boers had passed we were again
ready for the road — that is, with care and judicious
driving we might reach the river without further
casualties. We made the effort, and succeeded. On
the Vaal river we found ten or twelve wagons out-
spanned, the owners of which showed anything but
friendly feeling towards us.

The Vaal river here is about the width of the Thames
at Hampton Court, very sluggish, with rock and clay
margin. The reach where the ferry was extended miles
downwards and about two hundred yards upwards ; here
it was entered by a grand rapid. The banks were
clothed with trees, principally mimosas, while on the
opposite shore were two houses, one belonging to the
former ferryman, the other to his successor.

Before we could do anything a new dissel-boom had
to be made, so I sent William into the woods to procure
a suitable stick. After a long delay he returned with one,
and here his labours ceased, for he had no more idea of
hewing it down or fitting it than the man in the moon.
I appealed to Hendrick and Pater, but to no purpose ;
they knew no more than William, so there was nothing
for it but to do it myself. I certainly did not like the
job, for a dissel-boom is a weighty thing to handle, and all
Cape woods suitable for such a purpose are very heavy,
and, worse than all, the sun was burning hot, and no
shelter was to be obtained to work under.

At this juncture I could not expect assistance from

"RARV WORK'S NOT EAST." 163

even Morris, for he was now dangerously ill — regularly
laid up. In the morning I had cauterised his throat ;
for some time after it appeared as if the operation had
given him relief, but in an hour or two he relapsed to
his distressed state. Without a dissel-boom we could
not proceed, with one we might be in Potschefstrom
by this time next day, so there was nothing for it but
to go to work ; so, stripping — that is, retaining only
my trousers, shirt, and slippers — the tool chest was
hauled from its place, and I commenced my labours.

First the tree had to be hewn down to the proper
size, then the end fitted to the eye, the iron mounting
removed from the old dissel-boom and let in and bolted
on the new. By six o'clock the job was finished, and
never before had my American experience with the axe
stood me such good service. But it was fearfully warm
work and no light exercise, so that I was bathed in
a bath of perspiration ; what I dreaded most was the
effects of the sun — coup de soleil, or some other of those
ills attributed to its power ; fortunately I suffered
from none of them.

Soon after six the embarkation commenced, our
wagon, as usual, first ; in ten minutes after it was placed
on board the punt the ferryman's cattle drew it ashore on
the soil of the Transvaal ; when we halted on reaching
the summit of the bank I could have given a cheer,
with three times three, for we had now crossed Natal,
the Orange Free State, and had entered the ultima Tfiule
of Christendom, had there not been my friend lying in
the wagon ill, very ill. Throughout life bitter and
sweet go together ; sometimes the one predominates,
sometimes the other, but separate them you cannot ;
there is neither perfect happiness nor perfect misery—
L 2

164 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

at least, I have never known the last — for always there
is a ray of light left, possibly only a feeble shred, such
as we see in the west long after the sun has set.

The ferryman would have a bottle of brandy ; I was
equally resolved he should not, for our supply was
limited, and it was determined to keep it solely for
medicinal purposes. As we owed this man two pounds,
when we came to settle the bill a bottle of brandy in
part payment was asked — he would allow ten shillings
for it. " No, I would not part with any." But when
he would deduct a pound if I would comply with his
wishes, and he pathetically added that his wife was
very sick, I gave in. The last part of his entreaty did
the business, and Henessey's three star French was
transferred to this Boer Charon, who, by the way, was a
very civil fellow, and spoke a good deal of English. But
although the wagon was over, the worst part of the job
had still to be done — to get the cattle across ; and to
save expense they were to swim. Consequently, round
the whole bunch of bullocks a cordon of Kaffirs and
Boers crowded, and by degrees they were forced
nearer and nearer the water; but in our team was
one perverse ox, Poonah by name, who the moment
you had him, as you thought, safe, would charge
through the line and go scampering over the country,
with all the naked Kaffirs in pursuit, and a pretty
dance he would lead them, till both he and they
were perfectly exhausted, when he would return in
the most submissive way, join the other cattle, and ask
sympathy from them, as if he were the most abused
beast in the world, and his comrades were certain to
give it. I think four times that evening Master Poonah
successfully practised this game, and as he figures much

POONAH'S PRANKS. 165

in the after narrative I will describe his personal
appearance. His head would have done justice to
any prize bull, the horns hung down ; in colour he was
black, with a compact, powerful body, standing on short
legs ; so now you have the darling's photo. I always
liked him ; his very roguishness and trickery made me
laugh often, and it is a pleasant thing sometimes to
laugh — dulce est desipere in loco.

He was a wise beast too, very willing when once in
the yoke. Even when pulling his best, if I happened
to be on the box of the wagon, and shouted his name,
" Ay, Poonah, treck Poonah ! " he would begin to trot
like a horse. He was always hungry and always fat,
and ever ready to be ringleader in mischief. The other
oxen were very fond of him ; he would rush into their
ranks when yoked or bunched, and no hostile horn
would be turned against him.

But Poonah had an enemy ; it was Morris. " There
goes that brute Poonah again ! " when shouts would
indicate that a chevy was taking place, and right he was
almost certain to be. Again, he would say, " I hope to
goodness a lion will jump that beast when we get up
country." To this I could not agree.

Well, my friend had been tempted from the interior
of the tent to have a cup of cocoa after our first halt.
Umganey had brought his stool and placed it for him
against the dissel-boom, and cup in hand he was waiting
for the liquid to cool — I wish the reader could tell me
what keeps its heat so long as cocoa — when Poonah,
who had broken away from his comrades, sought to
make the wagon a dodging-place to avoid the per-
severing Kaffirs — it was a common trick of his, to
play hide-and-seek round the wagon. However, the

166 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

pursuers discovered his whereabouts, made a dash after
him, but not to be beaten, he turned round the front of
the wagon, cleared the dissel-boom in splendid style,
but, alas ! sent all my friend's cocoa, which he had been
taking so much trouble to cool, flying to the winds.
" Blast Poonah ! " was all he said. The language was
strong, but under the circumstances justifiable.

I did not laugh, poor Morris was too ill ; but if it had
occurred to any one else, even to myself, I think I should
have, as Artemus Ward expresses it, "snickered over it."

Before break of day the cattle were again in the
yoke. Before us lay a range of stony hills, possibly
eight or nine hundred feet above the plain, which
were sparsely covered with bushes. Through them
was a pass ; once over it we should see the long-
looked-for Potschefstrom. Although the road was
good, and the ascent gradual, the cattle seemed to
lag on the way. At length the sun rose — a glorious
birth he had that morning, for there was not a cloud
to detract from his splendid brilliancy. The pass
is reached, on slowly we progress through it, and
suddenly, at a turn of the road, bursts on us a mag-
nificent extensive plain, margined with hills, in its
centre a small white town, almost smothered with
greenest poplar trees, blue gums, and willows. It is
Potschefstrom !

But although Potschefstrom is only about seven
miles off as the crow flies, yet the road of necessity
becoming tortuous from ravines, and one very bad
water-course, the Mooi river, we have to traverse quite
ten miles before reaching the outspanning-ground, a
mile to the westward of the town. From the name of
the river on which it stands, and which forms two

WHAT BOERS CONSIDER A GOOD JOKE. 167

sides of a square, Potschefstrom is frequently called,
especially by the Dutch, Mooi-river-dorp ; in fact, when
you get up country you will hear it spoken of among
the inhabitants by no other appellation.

Our arrival here has done Morris a little good. I
believe the interminable plains we have been passing
over for the last twenty days depressed his spirits, and
with a sick body it is very hard to resist it. Persons
on coming into this part of the country invariably suffer
severely from some ailment or other. The water is
accredited as the cause ; in my opinion it may assist,
but elevation, and consequently unaccustomed rarefica-
tion of atmosphere, has more to do with the indisposition
than is generally believed.

Pasture all round the camping-ground there is an
abundance of, still it is not safe to let your bullock
graze alone, without the forelopers being in attendance,
for there are such things as mealy fields, and nothing
delights a Boer more than sending cattle to the pound,
particularly if they belong to a travelling Englishman.
They are asserted to have a penchant for sending their
neighbour's cattle also ; who could then expect that a
stranger's would be safe? In Umganey I have long
been aware that I possess a most valuable servant ; his
work he conscientiously performs, seeking neither to
thrust his doings under your eyes nor to make market
out of them. For performing his duty I do not
applaud him — he is but doing his duty, and for that
he is paid; but as a good and faithful servant, often
taking work out of my hands, I give or send him a
piece of tobacco, for which he is very thankful.

I have forgotten to state that Imp, the little scamp
Imp, who was in charge of the culinary department,

168 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

bolted when within a few days of here. I rode back
many miles in search of him, but was unsuccessful. The
vicinity of the Diamond-fields was too great a temptation
for his ^principles, and he gave us the slip, for there
wages were at sensation prices. He was not much
loss, for he was an eye-serving scamp, and a little
pilferer to boot.

Thus we have arrived in Potschef strom with a driver,
the man engaged at Eland river, Jim and Umganey.
Among our cattle and other animals, I am thankful to
say, we have suffered no loss.

On the morrow, at an early hour, Morris and self
went into the town to find out the leading physician; they
all, three in number, occupied this position, so we inter-
viewed them in succession. After this, my friend preferred
placing himself in my hands as to treatment and advice;
I wished to persuade him otherwise, but he would not
listen to the arguments I could use to the contrary.
Certainly I must say that the doctors of Potschefstrom
were a rough-looking lot, and by choice I should much
sooner have trusted a cow in their hands than myself ;
in saying this it must be remembered that a change
for the better may have taken place since I was there.
After our visit to the town we had a consultation,
and I emphatically insisted that the sooner he went
home the better. To this there was much opposition,
but ultimately I carried the day.

That evening Morris left me by the mail cart for
the Diamond-fields, a journey of over 400 miles ; there
there was communication with Port Elizabeth twice
a week by Cobb and Co/s coaches. So, with luck, he
might reach the coast in twelve days, or possibly be
back in England in little over six weeks.

MORRIS RETURNS HOME. 169

Poor Morris ! I had a great job to get him off ; he
fought against going — against returning before he had
shot elephants, lions, and such-like ; but his life was
at stake if he persevered further, so I was resolved,
as far as in me lay, to prevent his making so rash a
venture. I succeeded, but it was not without a severe
struggle.

Well, I saw him off, and rode with the coach a mile
or two ; at length I approached the window at which
he sat, took his right hand in my left, gave it a long
squeeze, murmured a " God bless you ! " and I was
alone. Yes ; and I grat, as they say in Scotland, for I
had learned to love him for himself, and to know him
as a true, kind, noble-hearted man.

I was alone now ; no friend to help me, none to
advise me, none to counsel me; in future I was to fight
the battle single-handed.

CHAPTEE XVI.

FRIENDS IN NEED.

A Lazy Driver— Reminiscences of Holly — Suspicions of Underhand Conduct —
Crossing a River — At Klerksdorp — My Novel-reading Servant Bolts— Kind
Friends — Half a Day's Shooting — Two Hyaenas done for — A Driver is
Lent to me — The Boers at Klerksdorp — The Brothers Rous — Immense
Foolishness of the English — Mr. Rous on Nile Explorations — Superstitions
of the Boer — A Witch called in — The Prettiest Village in South Africa —
Abundance of Fruit —Well-conditioned Porkers — A Look Round — Fruit
not to had for Love or Money — A Good-looking Woman — Irritating in-
hospitality — A Present of Fruit — A Return Gift of Sweets — " Jim a good
Boy " — Jim Decamps — The other Boys assert their Innocence — Deserted by
all my Attendants save one — My Lecture to Umganey — A Lady Visitor —
I decline to pursue Jim.

WHAT I thought, or what I did not think, in my lone-
liness is not to the purpose. I went to work : unloaded
the wagon, and sent it round to the blacksmith's shop
for repairs ; also turned out every case to learn the better
what could be dispensed with, and so lighten the load,
for it was necessary that I should have as few impedi-
menta as possible.

For two days I toiled without ceasing, and on the
third was ready for commencing the journey. A firm
of merchants advised me to engage some one speaking
English who was conversant with the country north, as
without a companion I should certainly go melancholy
mad. Not wishing to go melancholy mad, I engaged
a man they recommended. This fellow, who was to
drive, to look after the cattle, to provide game when
necessary, did absolutely nothing but lie on his back
in the wagon, smoke, and read novels.

UNGENTLEMANLY GENTLEMEN. 171

But before we go further, let me revert to a dinner
given me by the members of the most clannish race on
the earth. In happening to speak of Holly, one of the
guests said, " I remember him well." Entering into a
description of his person, my acquaintance continued —
' ' He and a number of his companions who were engaged
in the Basuto war came up here ; as they had been
fighting in our cause, it was decided among the worthy
burghers that they should be entertained at a dinner,
and the finest public dinner that had ever been furnished
in Potschefstrom was provided in their honour. But
what do you think they did? After all had become
seated at the table, each of the guests seized a roast
duck and belaboured his neighbour with it. Disgraceful,
sir, most disgraceful ! In fact, I think that at my
office I can find a report of the matter, in which they
are characterised as the most ungentlemanly gentlemen
that ever visited Potschefstrom — a severe stricture cer-
tainly, but deserved, as you will yourself admit."

From what I knew of the hero of the " Eed, White,
and Blue," I quite believed that he was one of the "most
ungentlemanly gentlemen that ever visited Potschef-
strom."

The canny Scot is a wily bird, not to be caught with
chaff, but the kindest-hearted being in the world if you
know how to take him. Klerksdorp was not on my
route, but I wished to go there, as two gentlemen of
that nationality had made it their home, so we turned
off to the left, and, although only distant from Potschef-
strom thirty miles, it took me four days to reach it.
This delay was caused by the man I had hired to go up
country with me. I am still under the impression that
he was employed by the person who recommended him

172 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

(scoundrel, I should say) to do all lie could to thwart
my getting on, and compel me to sell out and return.
From information I afterwards received this impression
is confirmed, and I will say that the plot was so well
organised that the difficulties, annoyances, and con-
stantly recurring standstills were enough to make any
man grow sick at heart. Before reaching Klerksdorp
I had to pay sum after sum for getting pulled out of
spruits, holes, &c. &c., and the worthy I had hired was
never with me to assist. It soon appeared that it was
but to get into a hole for him to absent himself. That
he knew nothing about wagon-driving, and that he
was a foul-mouthed bully, I discovered before he and I
were together an hour. The name of the recommender
and his protege can be learned from me by any one
who desires to travel in Africa, and wishes to avoid
scoundrels.

However, although alone, I was not to be daunted.
About ten o'clock one morning we approached Klerks-
dorp. Between us and it was a deep rapid river, with
very rough bottom. Before entering this stream I
halted the team to give the cattle breathing-time, and
also have an inspection of the ford. But where was the
person who should have taken all this labour off my
shoulders ? Where ? lying on my bed reading a novel !
Without his assistance, however, I hoped to get through.
The cattle approached the water, and, just before
entering it, I called a second halt, for I had only Jim
for a driver, and Umganey to forelope ; for this new
man, who was to make all my ways easy, and all my
paths peace, had frightened off the wagoner who had
come with me all the way from the Eland river. At
length the word was given, in went the cattle, Umganey

MY NOVEL-BEADING DRIVER ABSCONDS. 173

hauled at the heads of the leaders, and Jim cracked his
whip nigh the flank of the after-beasts ; for a moment
there was a slacking of the pace, sufficient to cause me
to think that the team were coming to a standstill, so I
rushed, waist deep, into the stream, armed with a spare
whip, and plied it on the refractory. All the oxen
now pulled, and pulled together, so at length the wagon
reached the opposite brow, and we were safe from what
might have been a grave misfortune. Down the middle
of the village I passed, and outspanned near the store
of Messrs. Taylor and Leask, my countrymen,

" Nursing my wrath to keep it warm."

I kept my pent-up fury to myself ; so, when my
new employe came to me, and congratulated me on my
driving, I did not refer to his delinquency, and pre-
tended to take all that he said as a well-earned compli-
ment. In a day or two after I wished to unpack, and
alter the load into a more convenient form. Of my
intention I informed him the previous night ; but my
wishes were not of the slightest importance, so I had
to do all the packing and unpacking alone, for my
servant — forsooth ! preferred to go fishing.

I knew a row was at hand, and when the storm
did come I was aware it would be severe, for flesh and
blood can only bear a certain strain without resisting.
However, I was saved from such an indulgence of my
temper, for the object of my indignation came to me
and stated that he desired to go to Potschefstrom to
see his wife : borrowed clothes, waterproofs, and
blankets ; and although he had received an advance
of fifteen pounds, never returned. Better, possibly,
that it was so; for if he had remained, and continued

174 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

to manifest indifference to my success, I should most
certainly have taken the law in my hands.

Messrs. Taylor and Leask were most kind. I had
an invitation to take all my meals at the latter's table,
and took advantage of it, and for a short period enjoyed
the comforts of a home : very pleasant after all the
hardships I had suffered. But I am certain the reader
has been treated to a sufficiency of disagreeables, so I
will change the subject.

I was still without a driver, and it was absolutely
necessary to procure one before going farther. My new
friends sent far and wide to procure one, but until they
succeeded, I went in for shooting, to pass the time.
Mr. Taylor was an excellent sportsman, and a good
shot; so I will give the outline of half a day's
performance. In his company I started after dinner to
ride to a neighbouring wooded ridge. We each took
a boy to look after the horses. A pointer of my friend's,
and Bonte and Bob, accompanied us. The distance we
had to go before commencing our sport was about three
miles. Scarcely had we commenced work when sundry-
partridges and coran were killed ; then a diker doe and
fawn were bagged, Bonte having a splendid course
after the former before he pinned it.

The strip of wood that we were shooting was not
over one hundred yards wide, and a mile and a half
in length ; and during the whole distance we followed
it, game of some description was flushing in our front.
When near the end of the beat, my companion signalled
me. I joined him, and without asking questions
followed him up a slope on the velt. Approaching
its top we both went on our hands and knees till the
summit was reached, when, looking over, before us,

HALF A DAY'S SPORT. 175

within about eighty or ninety yards, were several
hundred spring-buck. My friend had changed his shot-
gun for a rifle ; I still retained my former weapon, useless
on such large game at so long a range, as it was loaded
with shot.

Well, he covered first one, then another, and ulti-
mately a third, but his Winchester refused to explode ;
by this time the spring-bucks had become alarmed, and
scampered off, and the two greyhounds had a grand run
after them, although from beginning to end of the chase
it was evident to any one that they were outpaced at
every stride. This did not matter, because we had
killed more meat than we could consume ; and whether
or no, both beef and mutton were to be purchased at
Klerksdorp.

From where our late shooting had been performed,
we galloped over a ridge of high land, and found our-
selves on the margin of another wood. This we shot
over, and very much added to our bag, so much so
that both the Kaffirs were loaded with birds, while the
diker bucks were hung across the horses' backs, tied
in their place by D's attached to the cantles of our
saddles.

A third cover was next to be shot, but to get there
we had to cross an open velt about two miles broad ; in
doing so, up jumped a wolf (striped hyaena), and both
the greyhounds dashed off in pursuit. On closing with
the quarry Bob fell as usual, but he was on his legs
a moment afterwards : this accident gave old Bonte the
advantage, who seized his prey by the flank, and both
pursuer and pursued rolled over in the dust together,
Bob in the meantime coming to his companion's assist-
ance, when conjointly they soon worried every particle of

176 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

life out of the luckless brute. In the meantime Taylor
galloped another hyaena to a standstill and shot it.

By sunset we were home, each ornamented with
a brush, a bag of game that required two Kaffirs to
carry, and a buck behind our saddles. Such was the
result of half a day's shooting in the immediate vicinity
of Klerksdorp.

As no driver could be procured for love or money,
Mr. Leask most considerately lent me his own private
man Jacob. He was to take me as far as Zeerust in
Marico, and there assist me to find a suitable person to
take his place.

But before leaving Klerksdorp I would say a few
words upon the Boers I met there. To Scotchmen they
are partial; on Englishmen they look with eyes of
suspicion. Want of education and ignorance of the
world are the cause of this, fostered by stories circulated
by deserters from the British army.

At Klerksdorp there were two brothers residing,
who had amassed considerable fortunes by taking
oranges, peaches, apples, poultry, &c. &c., to the
Diamond-fields. Their status in life had always been
such as to justify any person imagining that they would
not be quite as ignorant as their fellows.

An anecdote about them, true I can vouch for, and
most absurd, I do not hesitate to narrate.

One of these brothers was enlarging upon the
immense foolishness of these Englanders. They are
spending no end' of money to find out the source of
the Nile, and actually send people into Africa south
of the equator to discover its source. " Well, is not
the world round?" Taking an orange to illustrate
the matter, and drawing a line round the centre of

SUPERSTITION AMONG THE BOERS. 177

it, " Here is the equator. You see where the equator
is, don't you? Well, the fools expect to find that
the Nile rises on this side of it ; but how on earth can
men with common sense believe that water will run
uphill ? Well, these Englanders are the greatest fools ;
what say you ? "

And all agreed with him.

The Boers are also very superstitious, and believe
sincerely in witch-doctors, sorcerers, et hoc genus omne.
What I am going to tell will scarcely be credited, but
still it is true. Carl E-ous's brother got sick — very ill
indeed, the fact being that he was so miserly that he
denied himself the necessaries of life. He sent for me
to come and see him, which I did in the company of
Mr. Leask. I saw at once that the man was absolutely
starving himself, and my companion agreed in my views.
In consequence I ordered him chicken broth, wine,
&c. &c. But no, he would not be so extravagant, he
was a poor man ; and all other excuses such as men like
he would make were urged by this rich Boer.

Getting weaker, he called in an old hag of a Kaffir
woman, who was supposed to possess supernatural
power. After feeling his arms and legs, looking in his
eyes, casting the bones, and going through a variety
of absurdities, she gave him a prescription, which of
course did the wretched man no earthly good.

About ten on a Monday morning I left Klerksdorp.
Jacob, Mr. Leask's driver, wielded the whip, Umganey
foreloped, and Jim followed in rear leading the
horse.

To simplify matters, and as much as possible to
remove chances of obstacles, I had purchased six new
seasoned oxen, in good working condition. Thus
M

178 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

reinforced, and under the experienced whip of the
present driver, we got over the road rapidly.

Spring-huck, bless-buck, and wildebeest were abun-
dant, and so tame that often they stood and gazed at us
within one hundred and fifty yards of the wagon. As
I had plenty of meat — Mr. Leask having at the last
moment kindly presented me with a fat sheep — I left
these graceful and beautiful specimens of the wild game
of South Africa for the rifle of those who required their
flesh more than I did.

Outspanning in the heat of the day for two hours,
again the cattle were put to, and so well did my team
now work that by six o'clock we were entering the
suburbs of Hartebeestfontein, by long odds the pret-
tiest village, or rather hamlet — for it does not possess
over half a dozen dwellings — that I had seen in South
Africa.

Let me try and describe it. On one side of the track,
and about equally distant from it, is a row of large,
white, one-storeyed houses, with vegetable -gardens in
front. On the other side of the road is a never-failing
stream of water, across which are orchards covering a
hundred or more acres. The trees were groaning under
their loads of ripe fruit, oranges, apples, plums, peaches,
pears, and walnuts all being mixed together and attempt-
ing to rival each other in the quantity of their produce.
At the end of the village was a green, and in its
centre a very large pond, beautifully sheltered with
weeping willows, covered with ducks and geese. Every-
body and everything looked prosperous : fat cattle and
horses rested under the shadows of the trees ; pigs that
had never known sorrow — if rotundity of figure is a
proof of this — snorted, frisked, and grubbed about in

FRUIT IN PLENTY, BUT NOT FOR ME. 179

every direction, while domestic fowls appeared to be
innumerable.

Taking Jacob with me, I strolled through the
village. He spoke Dutch well, English fairly. Our
first effort was to find a shop ; we discovered two, but
both were shut up — at least, no amount of hammering
brought either owner or employe.

This was unfortunate, as several things were wanted.
However, they might be open in the morning. In the
meantime we would go and buy some fruit. Crossing
the green, we found two ox -wagons loaded with it. I
told Jacob to get a bushel or so, and make the best
bargain he could. It was no use ; all his efforts were
unavailing : they would not part with any. I told
Jacob to make a higher offer. No ; they did not wish
to sell, and to give away they were not inclined. And
during all this time dozens of oranges and apples were
rolling off on to the ground, and being greedily de-
voured by the pigs. It was very trying, but what was
to be done ?

We left these inhospitable people, and walked
towards the wagon. Near the corner of the road was
a splendid orchard. I looked over the fence, and there
was a really good-looking white woman sitting on a
plank over the stream, bathing her feet in the water.
She might have been about thirty, and certainly belonged
to the better class. Jacob spoke to her — requested her
to sell us fruit — stated how urgently we required
it, &c. &c. She dangled her feet in the stream,
never altered her position, but refused to sell what we
wanted.

This perverseness made me feel quite cross, so I
went my way anything but rejoicing. By the roadside
M 2

180 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

grew a quantity of prickly pears ; as I could have no
other fruit, and it is almost a necessary of life to me,
for want of better, Jacob and I commenced to gather
them. ,

I was enjoying my supper about sunset, TJmganey
was waiting on me, and Jacob was polishing out the
pot — the driver's perquisite — when two very pretty
children, respectively about twelve and ten years of age,
came up to the encampment, bearing between them a
heavy and large basket. It was filled to overflow with
fruit, the top layer consisting of enormous bunches of
delicious grapes.

The oldest child spoke in Dutch. Jacob stood by
to interpret. " These are for the Englander — not for
money."

"But ask the child who sent them," said I to
Jacob — which question resulted in my discovering that
the good-looking woman whom I had seen bathing her
feet was the donor.

I happened to have some bottles of candies, acidu-
lated drops, &c., in the wagon-box, laid in for exactly
such occasions, so I gave my charming young visitors a
liberal supply, and the happy little creatures went off
home perfectly delighted with their present ; for the
Boers are wonderfully fond of sweets, and they are so
expensive, on account of the distance they have to be
carried, that they are beyond the means of very few.

The lads and myself enjoyed very much the welcome
gift ; and as they had had a hard day of it — for from
Klerksdorp to Hartebeestfontein is a long day's journey
— I made up my mind to be liberal, and give each a
glass of grog when Jacob got his ration issued. As
usual on such occasions, Master Jim kept us all in good

JIM CONSPICUOUSLY ABSENT. 181

nature by the amusing antics that he performed.
Besides, he was a really good-looking fellow, and
nothing seemed to damp his animal spirits, which caused
him to become most popular among his companions.
My appreciation of him was marked by my having
advanced him to the post of assistant-driver, with the
prospect of becoming chief. His wages also had been
doubled.

After I had seen that good fires were lighted, and
everything snug for the night, I turned into the wagon,
and went to bed. Till I fell asleep, I heard Jacob,
Umganey, and Jim carrying on a most animated dis-
cussion, which several times terminated with, " Jim a
good boy ! Jim a good boy ! " If I had thought at the
moment that my affection had been misplaced, that this
scoundrel was harbouring guile, I would have been out
of bed in an instant, and reproached him with his
duplicity ; but such a thought never entered my brain.
I went to sleep, confident of the affection of my fol-
lowers.

Next morning, in mustering my people, Jim was
absent. At first I thought he had wandered off into
the village, so took no notice of the matter ; but when
it became time for the cattle to be put in the yoke,
and he did not make his appearance, I became sus-
picious.

At length Jacob informed me that he thought Jim
had run away, for all his clothes were gone. Even then
I could not believe it to be true, for I had always
treated him with kindness and consideration ; and were
not his last words ringing in my ears — " Jim a good
boy ! Jim a good boy ?"

But as the day waxed older there ceased to be any

182 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

doubt that I had been given the slip, and thus lost the
last of my Pieter-Maritzburg servants.

I could not help thinking that Jacob and Umganey
had connived at the scoundrel's departure, so I consti-
tuted myself into a court of inquiry, and cross-questioned
them on the subject ; for I considered that if they
had known the runaway's intentions, they owed me a
duty, as faithful employes, to inform me of the matter.
Jacob earnestly denied any knowledge of the affair,
and said that he and Umganey had left Jim by the fire
when the}'- had gone under the wagon to sleep, and that
he had not seen him afterwards. Jacob, acting as in-
terpreter to Umganey, reiterated this statement, so I
was bound to believe that they spoke the truth.

At least half a dozen servants now had thus left me,
and in the most unexpected manner, so who could I
rely on? Umganey was the only one left who had
come from Natal, and why should I trust him more
than the others ? To all I had behaved equally kindly,
yet without a word of warning — when, too, their ser-
vices were so necessary to me — they had stolen away.
Jacob being only lent me, I now possessed but one
attendant, and at any moment I might be without him.

Thinking thus, I made a speech to Umganey through
Jacob : I told him that if he did not like me, if he was
tired of his work, if he had a desire to leave, he had
better tell me, and do so openly. To this Umganey
protested, vowing he would go with me anywhere and
everywhere. I could not help feeling doubtful of the
truth and sincerity of what he said, reminding him
that Master Jim had spoken in the same strain.

With a quiet earnestness that was so forcible as to
astonish me, Umganey simply said, " Jim Kaffir, not

CONSEQUENCES OF BEING A GOOD SOY. 183

Zulu." And, as the lad spoke, his good-natured coun-
tenance became quite sad.

Soon after I had a visit from the lady who sent
the fruit, accompanied by her two handsome children.
Jacob informed her of the desertion of Jim ; she im-
mediately counselled my seeing, the Field-cornet, whom
she would send one of the children for. This official
soon put in an appearance ; knew that Jim had passed
through the village in the morning, and had taken the
Diamond-fields road, and was no doubt travelling with
some wagons that had passed en route to Griqua Land
West. He would have him back by this time to-morrow,
have him well flogged, &c., all for seven dollars, the
money to be paid in advance.

At first I felt inclined to listen to this proposal. I
thought with what pleasure I should take the scoundrel
by the ear, and remind him that Jim is a good boy ; but
after consideration, a knowledge that I could not retain
him against his will, and that forced service was not the
kind I wanted where I was going, induced me to decline
the worthy Field-cornet's proposal. Whether it was
love for the dollars or zeal in his profession, this Boer
functionary seemed disgusted at my non-acceptance of
his assistance.

From that day Umganey was promoted to the rank
of my own personal attendant and cook, also placed in
charge of the stores — even of the tobacco. While both
Jacob and he were to be on the look-out at all the kraals
we passed for a lad to forelope.

Although I did not order Jim to be pursued and
brought back, for a week, if not longer, I had ringing
in my ears the complaisant words — "Jim a good boy!
Jim a good boy ! "

CHAPTEB XVII.

ABOUT THE TRANSVAAL SOME NATIVE TRIBES.

Hints to Those about to Emigrate to the Transvaal — The True Source of its
Wealth — The Crops that can best Grow there— Difficulty of Obtaining
Labour — Natives and Boers — The Macalacas — Shots on the Road — Beltong
—Tame Spring-bucks— Mrs. Leask's Pet— Tame Cranes— Their Odd Ways
— Biased Judges — My Present Driver — How he Does his Work — My Personal
Interest in the Cattle — Wisdom of Oxen — Wildebeest— The Prey of the
Martini-Henry— Ant-hills— The Dogs on the qui vive — A Cobra di Capello
— It Escapes.

OUR next halting-place, about twenty miles beyond
Hartebeestfontein, was a large farm in the centre of an
open plain, well covered with grass, and about eighty
acres of mealies in the immediate vicinity of the dwell-
ings, which were more numerous, larger, and in better
repair than usually seen on a Boer estate. There was
also here an abundance of water, without which no
number of acres can be of the slightest value.

At the present time many people talk, and, I be-
lieve, think seriously, of emigrating to the Transvaal,
and an agency has been appointed in London for the
sale of lands. Be warned in time — do not part with a
single shilling till you have inspected your intended pur-
chase, and then on no account be induced to have it
unless you are guaranteed that the springs or water-
courses upon it are unfailing. You cannot have every-
thing perfect, and the want of water is what militates
against these upland plains.

As I have said before, the Transvaal is essentially a

THE TRANSVAAL REPUBLIC. 185

stock-raising country — the true source of wealth to the
inhabitants are cattle ; thus a more than usually dry
season may reduce the farmer of comparative opulence
to the verge of beggary.

By the Yaal, Marico, Notawaney, and Limpopo
rivers, where water could be raised by machinery for the
purpose of irrigation, splendid crops of millet, Indian
corn, sugar, cotton, with nearly every variety of fruit,
could be raised ; tobacco also, if properly cultivated,
might be made one of the staples of the country. Near
the Vaal river I took the opportunity of examining a field
which was in an advanced stage — the growth was very
strong, and the colour denoted that the plants were in
robust health ; but, instead of being topped, so as to
make the leaf large and reduce the quantity of fibre, it
was permitted to grow to any height, and carry any
quantity of leaves. Now, if this had been in America,
in Kentucky or Virginia, not a single plant would have
been permitted to bear over five or six leaves.

Although the Kaffir population is abundant, labour
is very difficult to obtain in this distant part of the
earth. Herding cattle, and such-like occupations, they
do not object to, but tillage — in fact, manual labour
of any kind — is very much opposed to their ideas
of independence and manhood. Thus it is that the
women about Kaffir kraals do all the cultivation of the
soil. On this account, to a very great extent, may be
attributed the opposition the native population offer to
all attempts made by the missionaries to put a stop to
polygamy, the number of a man's wives being exactly
the estimate that may be formed whether he is poor
or has an abundance.

On our road, for we are now on the highway from

186 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

the Diamond-fields to the interior, we overtook a great
many aborigines of different nationalities returning to
their homes. While traversing the country of the Boers
these poor creatures do not feel particularly safe ; for
there is a law in existence in the Transvaal, by which a
native who cannot give a satisfactory account of himself
may be seized, brought before the Llandroost, and fined
or compelled to work, as the worthy magistrate may
deem best. Thus several attached themselves to me,
giving their services in return for food and protection.
From this cause I obtained a fine stalwart handsome
Macalaca for foreloper.

However, I soon found that he was not suited to the
work; for he had purchased a gun at "the Fields,"
which was so dear to him that he could not lay it aside,
and, believing in the old saying, " Loaded or not she's
dangerous," I put him to another task, namely, that of
" herd " and assistant-hunter, while a more disreputable -
looking member of his tribe was installed as foreloper.

This Macalaca race are a strange people. They are
generally tall, well-formed, and yet they are reported
to be consummate thieves, fearful cowards, and skilful
workers in iron. If you ask a native who happens to
possess either an assegai or hoe, " Who made that ? " the
answer invariably is, " Macalaca." They are now vassals
of the Matabele, who ride over them with a rough-shod
foot, getting from them one year the very weapons with
which they murder them the next. Their pilfering
qualities I scarcely expected to be put in operation, for
they were too much in my power to run such risks; and
Master Umganey, whose duties kept him always with
the wagon, aware of the weakness of these heroes, never
ceased to watch their movements most sedulously.

TAME SPRING-SUCKS. 187

From the road, during the latter part of the treck,
I shot two spring-bucks and one bless-buck, welcome
additions to our larder, especially as there were so many
tramps on the road, all of whom, by common consent,
expect the Englishman to supply their wants. Wil-
lingly they come and cluster round me, and ask me
for food, but a Boer they would not think of going near.
The reason of this may be that at the Diamond-fields
they have become familiarised with our race, and found
them generous, while their experiences of the Dutch
have taught them the reverse. Then among the Boers
that curse — slavery — exists, and naturally those who
practise it must be viewed with anything but loving
eyes by those who are the sufferers.

At this farm, where we outspanned, the people ap-
peared a tolerably good sort; they sent me a present
of milk and green corn, both most acceptable, and I was
able to purchase from them about fifty pounds of beltong
(generally antelope flesh rubbed with salt and dried in
the sun), to which I had become very partial. The
beltong was brought to the wagon by an aged frow,
very stout, and almost swarthy enough to be taken for
a native ; but she had a kindly eye, and a happy, good-
tempered expression of countenance.

As attendants following her were three tame spring-
bucks, evidence that these graceful creatures knew her
through her kindness; and however I dislike a person,
hate their character, despise their meanness, if I am
aware or see an evidence in them of affection to
animals, I know that they are not all bad, that there
is some redeeming quality about them. Very much to
my annoyance, Bonte and Bob, followed by the whole
pack, jumped off in pursuit. I called, whistled, and

188 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

even yelled at them, but all was of no avail ; the
spring-bucks bounded away gloriously, and the dogs
did their best to overtake them.

I told Umganey to bring the horse to prevent
mischief being done, but Jacob, who had been con-
versing with the old lady, assured me that there was no
necessity for that : they were hunted by the dogs of
every wagon that passed ; that if they took a run out
on the velt now, they would find their way back at
milking-time.

I do not know an animal that makes a more grace-
ful, attractive pet than a spring-buck : they appear
capable of great attachment, and are well able to dis-
criminate who are their friends. Mrs. Leask of Klerks-
dorp had one ; it played with the children, bullied
the dogs, and walked about the village as if conscious
that it was as worthy a member of the community as
any one in it, as I daresay it was. In the morning it
was in the habit of crossing the river and going out
on the velt to feed, where it would associate with the
wild ones, still never failed to return at night. It
ate almost anything of a vegetable character, from
bread to fruit, and was particularly fond of sugar.
Strange dogs would occasionally chase it, but its
speed was so great that it soon distanced them.
Like many pets, the poor thing came to grief. It
returned one day from its wanderings with a broken
leg : efforts were made to set it, but all that could
be done by a kind master was of no avail, and after
a lingering illness it had to be destroyed.

The same estimable lady had a pair of crowned
cranes (called by the Boers mahems), which are equally
deserving of notice as pets. They were so tame that

PET CRANES. 189

they permitted themselves to be caught, although they
were in the hahit of flying miles from home to feed on
the velt. Although constantly in the society of wild
ones, they never manifested the slightest intention of a
desire permanently to join them. At night they used to
roost on the chimneys, and if a change of weather were
about to take place, inform the inhabitants of the vil-
lage of the circumstance by loud and discordant screams.
In all disputes among the poultry, whether turkeys,
geese, or fowls, they constituted themselves arbiters,
and woe betide the bird that did not listen to their
decision. I am of the impression .that they were not
always just, for if an unfortunate goose happened to
be the offender, it would be pursued for a hundred
yards, and well pecked during its flight. If ordinary
domestic fowls had high words which led to a battle,
a mahem would simply walk between them, give first
one and then another a stroke with its wing, and
erecting itself look down on both belligerents with
so extremely comical an expression of countenance,
that the observer might well imagine it saying, or
at least thinking, " What a pair of fools you are ! "
These birds were immensely popular with all the
children ; they were never rough or attempted to peck
them. Still I believe that they were not without
weaknesses, one of which was cupboard love, for the
youngster that had a piece of bread and butter in-
variably received more attention than those who had
none. For hours I have watched these birds, and they
never failed to afford me amusement, if not instruction.
However, it is half-past three, and time to renew
my journey, or else Marico will take me longer to reach
than anticipated. My team may not be all that I

190 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

desire, for with experience I am becoming fastidious ;
still they are very much better than formerly : this may
partially be attributed to Jacob's driving, for he is,
without doubt, the best wagoner I have yet had in
my employment, and spares the whip although he does
not spoil the children. As he walks along by the
cattle's side, or sits upon the box, he keeps up a con-
stant conversation with them after this way : " Swart-
land, leave that grass alone ; I will take your bell away
and put you in a centre yoke. Ah ha ! Buffle, what
are you after ! " and crack goes the whip. " Poonah,
naughty boy ! come, step out ; yes, that's the way,
Gilbert ; Master Ackerman, you want to get the wagon
in that hole! where's my jambock?" and so we pro-
gress, slowly truly, but pleasantly enough.

While Morris was with me I had paid comparatively
little attention to the oxen ; in truth I had no liking
for them ; but now that I am alone and without
companionship, I have busied myself among them,
always seeing them unyoked and put into harness, if
such an expression can be used, and intimate association
has really taught me to love them. At first, if I went
about their heels, I was certain to be kicked ; now they
do not trouble themselves to molest me. Buffle and
Swartland, my leaders, are two most intelligent beasts
of pure Zulu lineage, possessed of beautiful limbs,
small prick ears, smooth coats, and large, clear, ex-
pressive eyes. A piece of rusk, or a handful of mealies,
does not cost much, so I often have one or other
in my pocket for the well-behaved. The consequence
is that if I walk in front of the team when trecking
—and we are now nearly able to dispense with the
foreloper — they will quicken their pace to keep up

OXEN WISE BEYOND REPUTE. 191

with me. Even Poonah, ever in mischief as heretofore,
and none the less frisky than formerly, will permit me
to scratch his forehead and flank. Morris's almost last
wish was that a lion would jump him ; that event shall
not take place if I can help it.

Oxen are wondrous wise beasts — very much more so
than a casual observer would give them credit for ; that
they can speak to one another, or, at least, have means
of communicating their thoughts to each other, I have
no doubt. Watch them when unyoked, and listen to
the lowing that takes place, or the guttural, suppressed
noises they utter, the one waiting for his companions till
all are untied, when the appointed leader takes the front
and all follow after. The rogue and most unmanageable
in my team is Ackerman ; in appearance he is the most
docile of the docile — grave and staid as becomes his age ;
but only let him get a chance to run the wagon into a
hole and he is certain to do it, or if the herd-boy should
be out of sight, and a mealy garden within view, with
a couple of wheezy bellows, meaning " Come along,
boys," he makes off for a foray upon the tempting grain.

The nature of the velt is become quite altered, for
every here and there are patches of timber, mixed with
bush, to the extent frequently of several acres ; also
slightly elevated ridges crop up, covered with loose and
very much decayed sandstone, while between the de-
tached blocks creepers of unknown length twine, covered
with the most punishing thorns. In these little covers
the stein-buck and diker-buck find a shelter, and if the
wanderer had with him well-bred greyhounds he might
enjoy splendid coursing.

As numerous wildebeest grazed within easy distance,
I took my Martini- Henry and endeavoured to get within

192 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

shot, but for a long time these strange animals — resem-
bling more a cross between the horse and the buffalo
than anything else — refused to gratify me. At length
I spied a bull not far from some bushes. Without
attracting attention I gained the friendly shelter and
carefully passed through it. The moment I came
in sight of the quarry away it bounded, kicking
and prancing like a colt just turned loose, while
every few steps it turned its head to the right or
left to observe whether I was in pursuit. I brought
my rifle to my shoulder and watched for what appeared
a shadow caused by this evolution ; in a moment it
showed itself, and at the same instant I pressed the
trigger, when the poor beast turned over as complete
a somersault as ever did rabbit or hare. The Martini-
Henry is certainly a wonderful killer if held straight.

Like the vulture that sees the carrion afar, so I
believe the Kaffirs do ; before the game was blooded
and paunched I had at least a dozen volunteers to trans-
port it to the wagon. Of course for such service each
expects to be permitted to assist at the feast.

The ant-hills, I notice, are commencing to change
their character ; in the Free State they were little larger
than exaggerated mole-hills, now they are quite a struc-
ture of eight or nine feet high, frequently with a con-
siderable-sized tree growing out of them. How long
and how many of these minute insects it takes to make
so large a hillock would be an interesting calculation.

Goran have been very abundant all the afternoon, and
so tame that Jacob nearly knocked one over with his whip.

About an hour before outspanning I almost came to
grief, and after a manner that would be of all others the
most distasteful. It was in this way.

ATTACKED BY A COBRA. 193

The dogs were running about in some tall grass
and dwarf bushes. I suspected that a coran was squatted
in the vicinity, and they were endeavouring to flush it.
I had a few minutes before had the pony saddled, with
the intention of riding forward to examine a ford that
Jacob reported as very bad, and, if so, to seek out an
easier place for crossing. To encourage the pack's enthu-
siasm in hunting, I rode into their midst. In an instant
a snake reared its head up between three and four feet
from the ground and struck at my foot ; but the pony,
as much alarmed as myself, was so quick that he was
round on his heels and out of danger in a moment.
How the dogs did not get bitten I could not understand,
for they stood pottering round the reptile, while every
moment or two it made a dive at one or other. Till I
was nearly black in the face I shouted Feusach ! (the
Kaffir for " Get out "), still the beasts would not come
away. I next endeavoured to take sight on it off the
pony's back, but my nag would not stand still, so I
dismounted. But what between the rapidity of the
snake's motion, and the dogs always getting in the way,
I could not get a sufficiently accurate aim to use my
rifle with certainty. I now shouted for Jacob, who
rushed up with his long whip ; but the moment he dis-
covered what he been summoned for he bolted as if the
Evil One were after him. At length, after all this
bungling, the reptile escaped into a hole, from which
I could get no one to assist me to dislodge it.

It was, as far as I could judge, about eight feet long,
as thick in the middle as the calf of a man's leg
and when its ruff was expanded the neck below the
head was as broad as my two hands ; in fact, it was very
much the largest cobra di capello I had ever seen.

N

CHAPTEE XVIII.

AN OBJECTIONABLE HOST TRAVELLING COMPANIONS.

A Rough and Ready Entertainment — The Pests of the Stock-Farmer — A Sheriff
in Pursuit — A Character Fond of Brandy and Snuff — Uninviting Premises
— A Sunday Dinner — Dirty Habits — My Host imperturbable — Request for
more Drink — A Fair Exchange — A Mongrel — Another Useless Cur —
Macguire — Bitten by a Snake — Cured — Worried by the other Dogs — Two
Travelling Boers — Description — A Cross-examination — Repository of Secrets
— A Chance of Marriage — My Captain's Biscuits become Inhabited — Beware
of Microscopical Examinations — Bee-eater — Supposed New Species — Cow
and her Calf against Three Hyaenas — The Cowardly Assailants Knocked
over — Aard-wolf — A Solomon — An Offer to Barter — A Strange Fence —
My Companions depart — I arrive at Jacobsdal — Commotion among the
Population — A Canny Scot — My Host and his Family — I reach Zeerust —
Mr. Niccoti Winkle.

NEXT day we entered Leichtberg, a straggling village of
adobe, or semi-dried brick houses. Each dwelling had
an extensive garden in front of it, running down to the
road, and apparently bearing prolific crops of vegetables,
chief among which appeared the water-melon and
tomato. Passing through, we outspanned on the
north side of the village, and ere the coffee was made
I was joined by several of the inhabitants, among
whom were an Englishman and his son. Spreading
my rugs upon the ground, and producing my chairs, I
made all as comfortable as I could ; and that they were
satisfied with the entertainment, which consisted of
as much coffee and biscuit as they could drink and
eat, with a petit verre de cognac after, was apparent in
their bonhomie manner, so different from what had

THE SHERIFF OF MAPICO. 195

experienced among the Boers before. But these people
had one grievance, and that a serious one : the wolves
(hyaenas) were destroying their cattle wholesale ; even
the night before they had killed three donkeys, and
several goats and sheep. Had I any poison with me,
and if so would I sell it ? they inquired. Unfortunately
I had not, or I should have willingly supplied the drug
for the destruction of these pests of the stock-farmer.
All the people here appeared well-to-do ; our country-
man acknowledged that there was no difficulty in
earning a living, but he feared it would be a long time
before he got rich.

A smart little man on horseback came up ; his dress
and bearing denoted him a person of position in the
community ; he possessed a fair smattering of English,
and appeared disposed to be very friendly. On inquiry
he turned out to be the sheriff of the district of Marico,
in pursuit of a defaulter. He expressed a great wish for
me to have the saddle put on my horse and accompany
him to Zeerust ; and much as I should like to have done
so, if for no other reason than to gain his friendship, I
was obliged to decline, as from past experience I had
learned too well how fatal deserting my attendants had
always proved.

We trecked that evening and next morning over a
most villanous road, and arrived about 9 a.m. (Sunday)
at a capital camping-ground, in the middle of which
was a large pond, and at the further end of the water
two dwellings and several out-houses.

As it is the custom in the Transvaal, I sent Jacob
for permission to outspan ; soon he returned with the
request granted, accompanied by the proprietor.

This man was a character if ever there was one.
N 2

196 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

He was about five feet nine inches, very powerfully
built, with flowing grey hair, whiskers, and beard. He
thought he could speak English, but his lingo was a
most absurd mixture of Dutch, Kaffir, and English.
I treated him to a soupje of brandy ; this he swallowed
at a gulp, winked knowingly with one eye, and rubbed
his stomach. He was going to hear the Predicant
preach, but would be back at twelve o'clock, when he
hoped I would dine with him, but before taking his
departure would I give him another soupje ? In a weak
moment I handed him the bottle and glass ; the latter
he three-quarters filled with the precious fluid — precious
I say, for far up country as I am now it was worth five
dollars a bottle — winked with both eyes, and uttered
a protracted whistle. Still he did not go. Had I any
snuff? for he had not enjoyed that luxury for six months,
and his mother and his /row were fond of snuff. I
gave him a couple of ounces ; wistfully he gazed at the
box that held the remainder, but I was firm, and he
retired with his gift, to hear the preacher.

These people make great professions of religion, but
I fear hypocrisy is not unknown among them.

While my future host was absent, I took a stroll
around the premises ; they were anything but clean and
inviting, while the quantity of the remains of dead
game that strewed the ground in the vicinity of the
dwellings clearly showed on what the inhabitants sub-
sisted. Here was the thigh of a zebra, there the head
of a wildebeest, with the remains of spring-buck, roy-
buck, and bless-buck only half deprived of their flesh,
scattered over all the neighbouring soil, while close to
the pond there was a perfect cairn of bones and skulls.
It is not difficult to predict the rapid extermination of

A DIRTY, DISAGREEABLE DINNER. 197

the game, when in the country there exist such blood-
thirsty assassins. Instead of going to hear the
Predicant, better far he had communed with himself
in his closet, and resolved never again uselessly to
destroy the beautiful children of nature, a race bestowed
upon us by the Creator to be used, but not abuse I.

In due course of time the man returned ; he came
to me for another glass of brandy, and as I was going
to dine with him, how could I refuse it? At length
we reached the house ; a dirty, a fearfully dirty table-
cloth covered a shaky nondescript thing that did
duty for a table. On it were placed several knives,
altered in form, and not unlike what they might be
supposed to become if hungry persons bit pieces out of
them. In due course of time a dish was placed in
front of where the head of the establishment was
supposed to sit. We took our places, the cover was
removed, and a frightful smell assailed my nostrils.

Could I eat such food ? Well, I am in Africa, far
beyond what is acknowledged as a civilised country, and
I will try. I succeeded so far as to empty the plate,
but this was no use ; the host, as often as I did so,
fished out a new dainty with his dirty fingers, and
insisted that I should accept it. This was bad enough,
but the mother, a most antiquated witch, was in attend-
ance, acting as waitress. In her hands was a clout ;
with it she wiped the plates before we sat down to
our meal ; afterwards, because it was warm, she relieved
herself of the perspiration on her head and neck with
this rag, and ultimately collared a dirty child, five or
six years of age, and wiped its face with this table-
napkin. I could endure it no more, but rushed forth
into the open air, and thence to my wagon.

198 THE GEEAT THIRST LAND.

I can stand clean dirt as well as another : this re-
quires an explanation. I do not kick up a disturbance
because my chop or steak has fallen in the fire, and has
sundry ashes attached to it. I can stand that; but
dirty dirt, such as I had just witnessed — upon my word,
I think I would sooner go without food altogether !
That all Boers are as dirty as this I do not mean to
assert, but that many are is an indisputable fact.

My sudden retreat from the dinner-table, any person
would have thought the termination of our acquaint-
ance ; not so my late host. He soon appeared, and
producing a bottle that could hold at least a quart and
a half, asked for some brandy, of which the old lady
was very fond, and for the want of which she was
suffering.

The impudence, the brass of the man, was beyond
being amusing ; but as I did not want to part bad
friends with him, I filled his measure with Natal rum.
With this prize he walked off, and I gave orders for the
cattle to be put in the yoke forthwith.

The boys obeyed my behest with alacrity, and were
doing their best to hasten our departure, when the
worthy Boer appeared again, gun in hand. With a
happy smile on his countenance — one that the casual
observer would believe to denote that he was the most
hospitable man in the world, and had not an enemy
living — he came up to me. Well, what do you think
he wanted but that I should give him one of my beau-
tiful rifles for his antediluvian flint-lock affair ! He
loved me so much that he insisted on an exchange ; it
was no use arguing, I must do it. Of course I refused ;
but the more did so, the more energetic he became.
At last I could stand it no longer, but made my shoe-

CURIOUS SPECIMENS OF THE CANINE SPECIES. 199

maker acquainted with his tailor in such a manner as
must have left the impression that my sole leather
was well tanned.

At Hartebeestfontein I had a dog given me by
the lady who sent me the fruit. It was a mongrel of
the first water, a beast that those most skilled in the
parentage and lineage of the canine race would look
at with awe, and inquire with real concern of the
introducer, "You do not, surely, ask me to give an
opinion on the pedigree of such a brute ?" I have ever
held that " like dog like master." Of course, if a man
buys a dog, and does not retain him long in his posses-
sion, or has only lately become the owner of him, this does
not apply. But, for instance, you see that jaunty subal-
tern walking out of barracks : how proudly he swings his
cane ; how thoroughly he is satisfied that he is an object
on which all eyes are directed ! He is a future general
— a great man in the caterpillar form, that will devolve
into a grand butterfly — in his own estimation, at least !
In each soldier's pocket the baton of a marshal is not
carried in England — for Englishmen fight without such
high inducements. But if that ensign had a dog, he
would no more associate with the animals belonging to
the rank and file, even when the meat rations were
served out in the morning, than he would fly. No ;
"like master, like dog:" and this lady's animal was
so effeminate that the others bullied it, so it took
the first chance to run away.

Another inhabitant of Hartebeestfontein — for dogs
seemed numerous in this locality — came to me to know
if I would buy a dog. His eyes were like those of a
ferret ; his face appeared as if it were made of putty ;
while his nose projected in a sharp hatchet shape — in

200 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

fact, his head looked as if he had been sat upon. With
half-bleached hair, that had once been brown, and a
complexion more like the colour of those saucers that
actresses wash their stockings in, was this man and his
dog. I weighed the matter. A useless cur I knew it
must be ; still, it might bark, and it might be cunning
enough to bite in the dark, and take advantage of op-
portunities to do injury that the more upright and just
would never avail themselves of. So I bought the
brute, and called it " Macguire," after one I once knew,
and whom it much resembled. Sometimes, for short-
ness, I called it "Paddy." That was when I was
good-tempered ; if out of sorts, I always gave the
miserable red-haired brute his name in full. Never was
there a greater skulker in this world, and yet the wretch
makes professions to be as brave as its comrades, and
would deceive any but keen observers. I have not
mentioned him before, for he was scarcely worth the
trouble. Yet to-day he was bitten by a snake. The
limb where he was struck swelled enormously, and I
concluded that my pack of nondescripts was about to
suffer a diminution; however, I applied extract of
ammonia to the wound, poured two or three table-
spoonfuls down his throat ; and I now know that my
efforts have saved the cur's life.

Well, poor wretch ! his unfortunate appearance is
not his fault, but all the other dogs dislike him most
terribly, and never lose an opportunity of worrying him;
and though one may feel sorry that such is the case,
yet one cannot so thoroughly show sympathy when one
observes that he attacks all who are weaker than him-
self, and without the slightest scruple appropriates
their food. "Give a dog a bad name," &c. &c. : so in

"PAR NOBILE FRATRUM." 201

this instance, for Jacob and Umganey never fail to give
him a sly kick when opportunity offers. I wish sincerely
I had not become his owner, for I do not like beasts I
possess to be abused ; so I must try and put a stop to
the stray knocks the unfortunate receives on the slightest
provocation.

A few miles along the road I was overtaken by two
Boers. A greater contrast to each other in appearance
than these men it would be difficult to imagine. The
principal was a well-made, powerful man of about eight-
and- twenty; although stout, he was not fat, and was
mounted on one of the finest and best-conditioned horses
I had seen in the country ; indeed, his horse-gear and
his own clothing were of a superior description to what
the visitor usually observes in this part of the world.
The companion, on the other hand, was a most filthy
little wretch, with an enormous shock head of hair ; both
his legs and feet were much deformed, so much so, that
when dismounted he could scarcely walk. His steed
was a white donkey, as miserable in appearance as
himself. His filthiness he could assuredly remedy, his
deformity not ; and much as I objected to the former,
I could not help pitying him for the other. They drew
up, and courteously saluted me, the horseman speaking
English well, the cuddyman but indifferently.

As always happens with Boers, they subjected me
to a severe cross-examination about my intentions, views,
country, relatives, &c. In return I followed their
example, and found them wonderfully communicative.
The young man acknowledged without hesitation that
he had been on a courting expedition, that he was not
likely to be long single now, and that his friend accom-
panied him to talk to the parents while he paid his

202 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

addresses to the lady of his choice. From what I could
make out, the deformed man was a person of no small
importance in the community; the possessor of all
family secrets that existed in the neighbourhood ; was
acquainted with all the eligible young ladies far and
wide ; and could tell to a stiver how much money and
how many head of cattle each would receive as dowry
on the day she committed matrimony. Further, he
undertook the duty of envoy in such delicate affairs
with unparalleled success ; and his services were in much
request by the beaux of the country.

Voluntarily he informed me that, although as a rule
Boer men did not like Englishmen, Boer women did;
and that he could find a wife for me, and that without
much delay, if I resolved to remain in the country. In
fact, he knew at that moment a young lady, very pretty,
very fascinating, very rich, and (making a motion with
his arms so as to infer that to clasp her round the waist
would be an impossibility) so big.

Expressing a doubt of the propriety of getting mar-
ried, he had an answer ready. There was no hurry —
oh, not the least ! but when I had been in Zeerust a few
days I would change my mind, particularly if I attended
preaching next Sunday, where I would see the charmer.

My new acquaintances seemed pleased with my
company, so made no effort to leave me behind ; thus,
when it got time to outspan, I asked them to accept
my hospitality. This they at once consented to, and
so, as I had an abundance of game, coffee, and other
good things, the supper passed off most pleasantly — if
I except a playful mannerism the deformed man had of
placing his fingers in the soup in search of tit-bits, and
then wiping them by shoving them in his mouth, from

POP GOES THE WEEVIL. 203

whence they were withdrawn with a loud sonorous
smack.

Tobacco I had in abundance, so after each had eaten
to his heart's content, my pouch was produced, and
conversation became general.

There is no delicacy in Boer men or women. No
subject seems too gross to be tabooed their conversation,
even when the different sexes are together, or strangers
present ; yet they are unquestionably a most virtuous
people — a proof that the greatest scold in Billingsgate
may be a very dragon of propriety.

When our convivial meeting broke up, they turned
in under the wagon, with apparently as much satisfac-
tion as if they were about to occupy the most luxurious
chamber.

Before sunrise Umganey had prepared a capital
breakfast — roast venison, the stew of last night, with
some curry-powder introduced into it, and as much
coffee, rusk, and biscuit as we could consume.

Touching those biscuits, they were excellent for a
long time, but suddenly there has appeared a most
extraordinary creature in them that I never previously
beheld. It is not a weevil, but its duties in life seem to
be somewhat similar to those of that insect. The
biscuits I allude to are square, their surface dotted over
with little holes, and are called captain's biscuits. In
every one of these holes appears to be lodged a dark
brown monster ; under a strong microscope the vermin
looks like an alligator, has four legs and a tail. These
biscuits I don't eat with the same pleasure as formerly,
and I'd advise you never to use a microscope to inspect
your food. However scientific you are, such a course is
a mistake, assure you.

204 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

When I eat them now I soak them in my coffee as
hot as it can be produced, then rapidly afterwards
skim the surface — the less time lost in performing the
latter operation the better, as they are apt to get
boiled down, and thus act as thickening to the beverage.

Leaving my new acquaintances, who propose journey-
ing on with the wagon, accompanied by three of the
dogs, I struck out on the velt and reached several
coppies and ridges of rocks, all of which were more or
less covered with trees. The scenery and characteristics
of the features of the country are more thoroughly,
every mile we progress, undergoing a marked change,
while a distant range of hills, eighteen hundred to two
thousand feet high, shuts out the horizon to the north.

In a valley formed by this ridge is Zeerust, and to
the right, about ten miles distant, is Jacobsdal, both
being in the province of Marico. The population of
neither of these places is above fifty or sixty souls,
and they are the last pretence at civilisation to be
found.

While passing along the margin of a clear purling
brook, that would have done honour to even bonnie
Herefordshire, I came across a new species of bee-eater
(apiaster), possessed of the most gorgeous plumage.
Substituting small shot for ball, I succeeded, after a
great deal of trouble and stalking, in getting a shot.
In Smith's "Birds of South Africa" it is not mentioned,
nor have I seen it before ; even at the large Ornitho-
logical Museum at Cape Town it is not represented.
Therefore I naturally conclude it to be a new species,
and feel not a little proud at the possibility of intro-
ducing to science a specimen of animal life that has
hitherto been unknown. The predominant colour is a

SOME COWARDLY BRUTES DONE FOR. 205

deep plum-red, with very long forked tail, the bird
itself being slightly larger in size than the turtle-dove.
If I should live to return, I hope it will grace some
day a case of rare specimens from various other distant
climes that I wot of.

Crossing a ridge of loose stone I came upon an unex-
pected scene, a cow battling with three hyaenas for the
life of her calf. The little one was between her legs,
and yet with the greatest adroitness she faced wherever
the point of danger appeared most imminent ; but the
odds were all in favour of the assailants, and in spite of
her strong maternal affection it was only a matter of
time for her to be deprived of the defenceless progeny
she loved so well, unless assistance came to her aid.

Springing off the back of my horse, for I was within
forty yards of the combatants, I knocked over one of
the marauders with each barrel, and after a short but
sharp bout, Bob and Bonte had pinned the other, to
whom a bullet was given as a quiet as. These were all
of the common striped species, formidable only to very
young, or sick and worn- out-by-age animals.

There is a very pretty little hyaena to be found up in
these localities, called by the natives " aard-wolf/' and
by the colonists " strand wolf; " it is about the size of
a jackal, possesses a bright fawn-coloured coat, hand-
somely marked with black lines. Although so small,
they do great damage to sheep and goats, and at times,
assembling together to the number of a dozen, will not
then scruple to attack an ox. This animal must not be
confused with the aard-vark, which is an ant-eater.

Ee turning to the wagon at noon I found dinner pre-
pared, and my acquaintances of last night anxiously
looking forward to my arrival as necessary before they

206 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

commenced to whet their appetites. These people are
both most amusing. The elder showed his knowledge
of the human character by the following observation,
" If you want to court a lass, aye make the mother
believe that if she were single you would prefer her to
the daughter." Wise man this ! The younger of the
two is brim -full of hunting anecdotes, as he has annually
made a trip into the elephant country since he was a
lad. He has confided in me — and the other thinks it a
good joke — how he has promised to give up that pursuit
after he has married. A great sacrifice ; but what must
he not do if his frow desire it?

The owner of the white donkey here adds, " Next
year, or the year after, you will be at it again ; your
love-making will be over then, and the wife will be glad
to get rid of you for a while. Yes, it's the same with
the whole of you; you'll all promise anything before
you're married, and do as you like after." There's some
truth in this, I believe.

The young elephant-hunter had taken a great fancy
to one of my double eight-bore guns, and was anxious to
make a trade with me ; the gun and twenty pounds for
his horse, saulted and warranted a first-class hunter. I
was not then sufficiently conversant with the merits of
saulted horses, or I should have accepted the offer. The
value of this nag could not have been less than one
hundred pounds, and many a time afterwards I regretted
letting the opportunity slip of becoming its possessor.

Next morning we trecked past a fine farm, abun-
dantly supplied with water, and possessed of a large
quantity of land under cultivation. The homestead
stood in the centre of an extensive orchard, the
greater number of. the fruit-trees being orange; the

MY ARRIVAL AT JAGOSSDAL. 207

fence around this inclosure was a tall thick hedge of
quince, now covered with fine fruit. Previously I
had never seen this member of the vegetable kingdom
devoted to such a purpose. On the high ground in
front of the house, on the unenclosed velt, pastured a
large drove of splendid cattle, all as fat and sleek as the
most fastidious stockholder could desire. The owner
came out to see who the traveller was ; for it is not an
every-day occurrence here to have a wagon pass, so I
laid hold of the chance to try and trade away some of
my tired and travel- stained beasts for fresh ones ; but
the boot he asked was so preposterous that I could only
laugh at the man's impudence or his appreciation of my
sanity.

My new friends here left me. The Knight of La
Mancha and his attendant they looked like, as they rode
off to the eastward over the undulating velt.

Mounting the Basuto pony, I rode on, ordering the
driver, Jacob, to make the best of his way to Zeerust.
The road was very pretty, passing between the spurs of
two hills, well wooded, and the valley abundantly supplied
with water. Soon I passed two more farms, adj oining each
other, and much superior in every respect to the last I
have described. The treck now turned to the east ; in
the distance, under some high hills, Zeerust could be
seen, about ten miles off, while Jacobsdal was close at
hand — a straggling village of twenty or more houses on
each side of the road, along the edge of which a stream
flowed, while large orchards were conspicuous for half a
mile deep on the left side of its bank.

The appearance of the solitary horseman in their
midst made quite a commotion — women rushed to doors
and windows, children out into the street to see the

208 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

unlooked-for apparition. I sought what appeared the
most respectable store for my dismounting-place ; hut,
before I had removed my off foot from the stirrup, I
was made captive by a true specimen of the race north
of the Tweed, who would listen to no argument or
excuse, but insisted that I should become his guest.
At dinner all the delicacies the "gudeman" had in his
shop were produced, among which were wine from Con-
stantia, Boer brandy, ten years of age, from the Old
Colony, and whisky that claimed Scotland for its birth-
place. How my host's eyes dilated when I told him that
I had fished and shot in his native land last autumn,
and when I said I knew Bothwell-on-the-Clyde the
climax was reached.

His wife, a kind motherly woman, and three ruddy
well-grown children I was introduced to, the latter staring
at me with awe when they learned that I had crossed
the big ocean, and came from papa's land. One little
four-year-old, in rather timid accents, asked whether
" him would not always stay with them," and when
answered in the negative it pouted its pretty little lips,
and seemed quite sad. A bed was offered me, but de-
clined, as I make it a rule not to sleep from the wagon.
So at half-past four I was again in the saddle, and, after
a pleasant ride of an hour, over a fair road — the distance
being about nine miles — I cantered into Zeerust, similar
in size and many other respects to Jacobsdal.

Here, as before, I looked out for the best store ; at
length I decided on what appeared the cleanest and
most promising, which bore the inscription — "Niccoti
Winkle." It certainly looked a strange name ; but then
I was in a strange ]and.

I rode towards it ; there was a group of four or five

MR. NICCOTI WINKLE. 209

Europeans and several Boers on its porch. Taking off
my cap, I asked for Mr. Niccoti Winkle. A roar of
laughter greeted my inquiry. After the mirth had
somewhat subsided, a good-looking, well-dressed gentle-
man approached me. " Niccoti Winkle is the Boer for
store, and I am the proprietor of the establishment.
Please dismount and make yourself at home ; your
wagon is outspanned in my yard/'

I afterwards learned that the name of Niccoti Winkle
has stuck to my kind host ever since this incident.

CHAPTER XIX.

A BRIEE SOJOURN AMONG BOERS.

Jacob's Engagement at an End — My Late Driver "Sprung" — Sale of my Oxen
— I procure some Pets — Assumed Indignation at Kama — Boers' Cruelty in
the Hunt — Abuse of Kama's Permission — A Visit to Moiloes — Its Chief or
King — Prosperity — Mr. Jansen, the Missionary — His Untiring Zeal — The
British Subjects at Zeerust — Their Boer Wives — The Gothic Episcopalian
Church — Associations of the Village Church — A Hunter's Wagon — Trying
to Dissuade me — Jealousy of the Boers — Its Cause — An Attempt at Extor-
tion— It Fails — Adieu to Zeerust.

WITH my arrival at Zeerust Jacob's engagement ter-
minates, very much to my sorrow ; for he has proved
himself an excellent servant and capital driver — in fact,
I had never seen any one get so much out of cattle,
and use the whip so little. Before paying him, he
wished me to let him go on to the elephant country;
but, as he was only lent by Mr. Leask, and had a wife and
bairns at Klerksdorp, I declined, although nothing would
have been more satisfactory to myself. Besides, to
have acceded to his- wishes would have been the height
of ingratitude to my kind friend.

I thought Jacob had taken his departure when I met
him in the village, decidedly the worse for what he had
been imbibing. An hour after he came to me very
intoxicated, and asked for a glass of spirits, which, of
course, he did not receive. I asked him why he did not
go home. Oh, he had spent all his money, or gambled
it away, so I gave him half-a-sovereign, and saw him

PURCHASE OF PETS. 211

on the road to Jacobsdal. This is a fair specimen of
the improvidence of many of these people who possess
Hottentot blood.

I found it a difficult matter to obtain a suitable
driver, although many applied for the situation ; so I
sent to Jacobsdal and the neighbouring farms to make
public my requirement.

In the meantime, I held a board on my oxen ; four
of them I determined to part with, for they had indicated
a tendency to footsoreness, and had become very thin.
As they were young and well-bred, I found no difficulty
in effecting an exchange for a similar number of power-
ful animals, but the strangers were such clumsy coarse
brutes that they entirely destroyed the symmetry of
my team.

As I was alone, and not likely now to meet travellers,
to break the monotony of my halts, also procured as
pets a goat, monkey, and cat. The first had to be
driven for two or three days, the others took to their new
life at once. Pussy became a great favourite — slept in
my bed, kept Jacko in order, and, in fact, had a voice
in all matters that were going on. She became a firm
ally of the dogs, and always with them attended my
meals. Some poultry were also obtained, but they, poor
things, were intended for the pot.

I soon knew all the people in Zeerust. Mr. Eeed,
owner of the Niccoti Winkle, invited me to take my
meals with him, consequently I met all visitors, and
was introduced to the wealth, beauty, and fashion of
the community. The great subject of conversation,
also of indignation, that excited the minds of this distant
village, was the conduct of Kama, king of the Bechuanas,
who had refused to permit any Boers to hunt in his
o 2

212 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

country, or traverse it to reach the game haunts beyond.
Such insolence was never heard of in a Kaffir before ;
they would fight their way in and burn down Soshong
if necessary. But this was all braggadocio ; they knew
better than attempt to coerce Kama, for past expe-
riences had taught them that he was not a man to
be trifled with.

The decision of the Bechuana king was not to be
wondered at, when it is a well-known fact that the
Boers had enslaved, and even at the present time held
in bondage, numbers of his subjects. Again, another
reason is that the Boers spare no game they meet with,
cow elephants or tuskless elephants are all the same to
them, and are destroyed in countless numbers even
when no use can be made of their flesh.

A countryman here narrated a circumstance that all
right-minded persons would think a disgrace to the
perpetrators. Kama granted permission to three Boers
to hunt for ivory in one of his very best velts ; after
having obtained a rich harvest, the elephants betook
themselves to the fly (tsetse) country, where their
persecutors dared not follow, on account of their
horses. However, not satisfied with the reward they
had received, they turned to and killed seven hundred
buffaloes for the sake of their skins. The whole
plain actually reeked with carnage. When Kama heard
of this he went to them, and asked how they dared kill
his cattle. Were they not the food of his children
when the heavens refused to give rain ? and forthwith
he drove them out.

Unjustifiable acts such as these can have no excuse,
nor can the Boers expect to be otherwise treated when
they commit them than to be forbidden to visit the

INSTANCE OF MISSIONARY ZEAL. 213

scenes of their misdemeanors. But as Zeerust derives
its chief support from the ivory and ostrich-feather
trade, it is a serious matter for the mercantile com-
munity.

With the hope of obtaining a driver, I rode over to
Mr. Jansen's, the missionary at Moiloes, a large Kaffir
town, situated on the spring that is the source of the
Notawaney. The population must be between twenty and
thirty thousand. The huts, which are most regularly
laid out, were remarkably clean, and the population
comfortable and well-to-do. The chief or king I met,
a very good-looking man of five or six-and- thirty, dressed
in European clothes, and speaking a little English.

It is quite evident he does not love the Dutch, and
would gladly transfer his suzerainship to England. He
regretted that he had no hunting lands now, or how
glad he would have been to accompany me, but he
would send and tell Kama and Sechelle to be good
to me.

There is a great deal of cultivation in this neighbour-
hood, Indian corn and Kaffir corn (holcus sorgus)
growing for miles along the approach to the town. I
also visited the church and school — a clean, tidy build-
ing in the most populous part of the community.

And I would now ask to whom all this apparent
and substantial prosperity is due ? To Mr. Jansen, the
good missionary. He is the first of what I may
designate the real missionaries — those who have bond
fde established themselves among the heathen — and he
is a good example of those noble self-denying men
that I shall have afterwards to speak of. Mr. Jansen
is a Dane by birth, and by profession a sailor. Nearly
thirty years ago he came here, and has made Moiloes

214 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

what it is. For many years he had fearful uphill work,
for the Boers threw every obstacle in his way ; but his
resolution and faith never failed him, and now he is
reaping his reward. Still, thirty years have not obliter-
ated the characteristics of the sailor. On the quarter-
deck— with speaking-trumpet under his arm — you could
well believe that he was thoroughly in his place ; a
bad-weather sailor, not one that has never known
otherwise than to cruise in sunny seas.

His house is very pretty, and fronted by a wide
veranda, flanked on either side by substantial offices.
Pacing it is a grove of blue gum-trees, now sixty or
more feet high ; while in rear of his residence is a
beautiful garden and fine orchard. Irrigation he has
taught the inhabitants, and to irrigation is due his
success as an agriculturist. The hospitality of Mr.
Jansen is well known to the very few white men who
penetrate so far ; to me he extended it, and so excellent
was everything that I really commenced to think I was
in an English farm-house instead of a heathen land.
When I bid him good-bye, the church-bell was ringing
to summon the faithful to worship ; and so large was
the congregation that many a clergyman at home is
without its equal numerically.

The four or five British subjects who reside at
Zeerust have all married Boer wives ; in the selections
they have made they have shown such good taste, that
I am really surprised to learn that such comely matrons
are to be found of this race. We know that women,
much more easily than men, adapt themselves to
elevation in their social position of life, and an instance
of it is here met with, for these ladies are as tidy, clean,
and natty as their sisters in the old country. An

THE JEALOUS BOER AND THE BOARD OF GUARDIANS. 215

amusing circumstance arising out of these marriages is
said lately to have occurred here. The truth of it was
vouched for, and believing it myself, I retail it.

An aspiring young politician, who possessed the
" gift of the gab " in much greater proportion than
common sense, had at one time been a suitor for the
hand of one of the ladies in question ; for a long time
his suit progressed favourably, when in an unlucky
moment one of these Englishmen arrived. He, in
course of time, was introduced to the fair one, wooed
and won her. The disappointed lover was irate ; but
how could he show his indignation ? By rising at the
first meeting of the guardians of the community, and
proposing the introduction of a law to forbid Boer
women marrying Englishmen ! One older than he
added an addendum to it — that before it became law
it should be submitted to the female portion of the
inhabitants. It is unnecessary to add thafc it did not
gain their approval.

Behind where I am outspanned is a humble, unpre-
tending little Episcopalian church, of Gothic architecture,
no*doubt the nearest to the heart of Africa that exists.
Is there any man living who has not experienced a feeling
of betterness on entering a place of worship or a grave-
yard ? The wild, most froward, and reckless have all
their better moments, and few places are • so likely to
produce them. Childhood, that period of our existence
without care or sorrow, when parents, relatives, and
friends surround us, is always associated with the village
church. Years may pass by, we may go through
foreign lands, sickness, and trial ; but the village church,
its quiet green, the sheltering trees, are never forgotten ;
memory will glide back to it and its associations some-

216 THE GEEAT THIRST LAND.

times by day, but more frequently in our dreams at
night; and wben man is about to be summoned to his
last parade, and before the spirit leaves its earthly home,
I have no doubt that even then he will think of the
village church, associated with the dear ones of his
youth.

I would not have been deprived of paying a visit to
this unpretending edifice for anything, but it must be
done alone ; for there are actions in our life that we
would prefer human eye not to witness. At the porch,
humble in spirit, I took off my cap and entered.
There was the same solemnity, the same rest, the
same peace so familiar at home. No living creature
was to be seen except two beautiful birds, about
the size of doves, that had built their nest among the
rafters, fitting tenants for so pure and sacred an abode.
I knelt by the altar and asked for myself a blessing ;
when I rose to go forth I inwardly knew that the
watchful guardianship of the Almighty was over this
church, although it was truly in the uttermost parts
of the earth. I afterwards made the acquaintance
of Mr. Carter, the clergyman, who showed me much
attention and kindness. That his heart is in his work
is abundantly proved by the comparative life of exile
this good man is leading.

An explorer's or hunter's wagon is always a favourite
lounging-place for those who have spare time on their
hands : thus I have constantly a levee of Boers around
me. One wants to buy a gun, another ammunition or
drugs. They will not listen to my explanation that
I am not a trader — all men are traders in their eyes.
Thus you are pestered till you get cross, and then they
get cross, when they invariably tell me the same story,

BOERS AFRAID OF FREE TRADE. 217

" Better turn back, Kama won't let you into the
elephant country more than us, and you don't know
what a hard time you will have before getting to
Bamanwatto." Then another will add, " It will take
you eighteen days to do it, and there is no water
between Crocodile Biver and Soshong."

Never mind, we shall see what we shall see; but
turn back I will not, till I interview Kama; and if I am
not much mistaken in what I have heard of his character,
he will not only grant me permission to go on, but give
me some of his people as guides.

The fact is, the Boers are jealous, and, had they the
power, would stop every one from passing here. The
ivory and feathers of the whole interior they consider
theirs by right, and oppose all persons who may possibly
obtain a share in this trade. Again, they particularly
object to Englishmen entering far Kaffir-land, for they
are certain to hear of their slave-hunting propensities,
the numerous brutal outrages they have committed on
the inoffensive native population, as well as the way
they have swindled every one, from king to peasant,
of grain, carosses, and other productions of this distant
sun-dried land. Moreover, Englishmen have a way of
speaking out their minds and calling a spade a spade,
and travelling away down into the Old Colony, and
communicating with newspapers and persons of standing
there. And as public feeling at present exists, the Boers
are not altogether popular with the colonial government,
and they know it. And who can be certain but that
these hated Englishmen might not take it in their heads
to annex them and release all their folks (slaves) ? Who
knows, indeed, if they let so many people go up North,
that when they come back again they will not talk about

218 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

what they have heard and seen ? No, the Boers would
close all distant Kaffir-land to the world ; but a hundred
well-armed Englishmen could open the gate in spite of
the whole population, if it were assembled to oppose
them.

At length all was ready for starting, the oxen were
in the yoke and myself mounted, when up came a party
of Boers, and demanded five pounds' duty on my wagon,
a tax levied on all traders. They showed no authority
for their conduct, and refused me all information but this,
that if I did not pay there and then they would seize my
wagon. That I was resolved they should not do, and
affairs were commencing to get exciting and lively, when
a friend came to the rescue. To my assailants he pointed
out that the tax was only levyable upon merchandise
going through the Transvaal for the purpose of trade,
that I had nothing in my load but necessaries for the
subsistence of myself and attendants, and therefore was
not liable. To this they would not listen, and I as ob-
stinately refused to satisfy their extortionate demand.
At length they attempted to remove a valuable gun-
case from the wagon as security for their unjust demand.
My patience was too severely taxed to submit any
longer, so I jumped off my horse, armed myself with
my revolver, and rushed in among them. The gun-case
was dropped like a hot coal, and the scoundrels bolted
as fast as their legs could carry them.

The order to treck was given, and thus I bid adieu
to Zeerust.

CHAPTER XX.

PIG-STICKING IN SOUTH AFRICA.

More Natives tinder my Wing — My New Driver — His Likes and his Dislikes —
Another One Wanted—" Count " or " Uncle "—A Pair of Black Oxen Pur-
chased— The Men in Possession — Humiliating Return — Scrimmage with a
Dirty Boer— Sheriff to the Rescue —Verdict in My Favour — South African
Scenery — Umganey in Gorgeous Array — Immense Effect upon his Friends —
Is the Man Mad, or does he mean Suicide ? — Umganey's Explanation makes
Darkness Visible — Game, that's it — Pigs ! — Fetch my Spear— Attendant and
Self off for the Chase — I cannot get near the Quarry — The Quarry gets near
the Macalaca — In fact, throws him — "Revenge!" I cry — Pig receives One
Prod and I receive One Coup — Ingenuity of the Macalaca — Pork not so
Scarce as it was an Hour Ago — Chase after Jackal — Silver Jackal — The
Voice of the Jackal— Queer Ant-heaps — Umganey explains their Chimney-
shaped Funnels — In a Strange Land — Another Addition to my Museum.

WELL, you all know how I marched out of Zeerust —
not exactly with colours flying and the hand playing
the old, old but never stale air, " The Girl I left behind
me," still feeling quite jaunty and not a little proud of
the way I had defeated the enemy.

Trecking five miles, I halted by the last water
to be found for fifty miles — two days and a half's
work. Here a good deal of organising was required;
the new bullocks were evidently not in their places, and
a nigh-ox does not work well as an off-one, and vice
versa. Moreover, the fatches had to be filled, and a
man told off to look after Buckey, the goat.

While here I was joined by several Macalacas and
Mashoonas, all on their way home from the Diamond-
fields, where they had been at work. For protection

220 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

and food they were anxious to join me, in return giving
me their services. The representatives of the former
tribe were fine, tall, slim, well-made men, such as would
make the material of a splendid light company ; while
the latter were thick-set, rather short, but exceedingly
powerful in build.

Their experience of the Anglo-Saxon race at the
Diggings seemed to have impressed them favourably, for
the driver gratuitously informed me that they had told
him that they knew the difference between Boer man
and Englishman. It is pleasant to know that my
countrymen in this far-away land keep up their repu-
tation for manliness and honest dealing.

I had now a dozen mouths to feed, so that I should
have to hunt more — a circumstance that gave me no
little satisfaction, for it occupied my mind, and prevented
me from brooding ; for it is unnecessary to disguise the
fact that I suffered much from loneliness, and would do
so still more when I got beyond the limits — to which I
was rapidly approaching — of where white men lived.
Between myself and the Boers there was little
sympathy, I acknowledge; but still, there was a tie
which did not exist with the black population — namely,
they were of the same colour as myself. How fragile is
the straw that the drowning man catches at ! Almost
as fragile was the bond that bound me to the Boer, still
it existed.

As the reader should know all the dramatis persons
of my travel, I will introduce him to my new driver.
He is of Hottentot extraction, and from the Old
Colony ; about forty years of age, and stands five feet
six. Instead of being black, he is of a sickly yellow
colour, his head covered with innumerable little pimples

MY NEW DRIVER MAKES HIMSELF FELT. 221

of hair; a nose that looks as if the bridge had been
broken in during his childhood; legs that are so bowed
that any of my pack might pass between them without
destroying his equilibrium; while feet and hands that
looked as if they had been made for a giant orna-
mented his extremities. In spite of all these pecu-
liarities, he was inordinately vain, wore a bunch of
dazzling-coloured ribbons in his hat, a neck-tie of
gigantic size, pattern, and brilliancy, and walked as if
he were "the glass of fashion, the mould of form, the
observed of all observers," spoke as if his word were
law, and treated all the community with an air of hauteur
that was truly grand.

I came in for some of this — a good deal of it, in
fact, and more than I liked. It was evident he argued
with himself thus : " This man knows nothing : it is
extremely doubtful whether he could tell with certainty
an ox from a horse ; and as to driving cattle and
managing a wagon, he is as ignorant as the child un-
born." Now, I just knew sufficient of these matters to
think I knew a great deal, and by no means liked the
estimate placed on my knowledge. I am not guiltless
of the frailties of the human family — very, very far from
it; and among my numerous weaknesses is, possibly,
the overrating of my abilities, certainly not the under-
valuing of them.

My new driver found fault with everything : nothing
was right ; the leading cattle should be the after ones,
the after ones the leaders ; Poonah was no use, and
good old Swartland was a bad ox ; Umganey was a
duffer, and the monkey — which had bitten him because
he had teased it — was to be knocked on the head.
Well, we will see, thought I, when you get a few

222 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

trecks from Zeerust ; you are too near home, my fine
fellow, to have any trouble with you now. Such was
Philip — such was my latest acquisition in the driving
line.

Master Philip came to me with the information that
another ox must be purchased, that a spare one was
absolutely necessary, and that without such an adjunct
we never could expect to reach Bamanwatto. His argu-
ments were worth listening to — namely, that a lion
might jump an ox, that lung-sickness might break out,
and some of the cattle get footsore. There was truth
in all this, so, resolved not to baulk any movement that
might assist to make my journey successful, I ordered
the horse to be saddled, and rode off to a farmhouse a
few miles distant to see if I could obtain what was
required.

Here I found a young Africander and his friend
at dinner, to which I received a cordial invitation.
During the meal I stated the cause of my visit, and
the friend most obligingly offered to accommodate me.
This gentleman was a Swede, and dressed in the
most extraordinary outre fashion, all the colours of the
rainbow predominating in his attire, while massive
ewellery decorated his fingers and vest. By familiar
friends he was called " Count," by the general public
" Uncle."

Soon a pair of black oxen were submitted for my
inspection, and I took them on his warranty that they
had been through the lung-sickness, paid the price —
rather a heavy one — and drove them to the wagon. But
when I arrived there, what was my dismay to find it
in possession of several Boers ! The enemy had come
in force during my absence, and taken hold of my goods

THE BOERS BROUGHT TO BOOK. 223

and chattels. There was no use remonstrating, back it
must go to Zeerust. Fighting was out of the question,
for I was outnumbered to such an extent that I had not a
chance. To have recourse to the last was objectionable
in the extreme, for who knows what a man may do in
the height of passion when engaged in a melee ? and I,
unfortunately, am not the most submissive creature if
I think my toes are intentionally trod upon.

There was nothing for it that I could see but to put
in the cattle and return ; it was very galling, very
humiliating, it is true, and to be looked at, possibly
jeered at, by the whole Dutch population of the village
as I passed through it, made me well wish I had paid
the nasty five pounds at first, and saved myself the
degradation now before me.

The cattle had been in yoke some time, and would
have been in motion before, but that I felt it incumbent
on me to expel a filthy Boer, who, boots and all, was
lounging on my clean bed — for I had beautiful scarlet
blankets, and took a pleasure in trying to keep it in
some semblance of what I should have at home.
He was a stiff-backed man, and as tall as myself,
so I had no easy task ; however, in our struggle we both
dumped out of the back of the wagon, my adversary
fortunately underneath. In this rencontre I had not
much to boast of, and I knew it.

Things had reached this pitch when a horseman
arrived ; to my great joy I recognised him as the sheriff
I had met and entertained at Leichtberg. Here he was
the chief government officer, and, I believed, a good
fellow. The case was explained to him by my foes, and
its monstrosity enlarged on by myself; I was called every
opprobrious epithet that Boer language could furnish.

224 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

Thus the scene lasted for half an hour, when the
verdict was delivered to the effect that I was not a
trader, simply a gentleman travelling for pleasure, so
they had no right to exact the fee they demanded.

My cattle were again out of the yoke and up to
their knees in pasture ; the pets were scattered around
enjoying themselves ; the sheriff sat upon a stool quench-
ing his thirst with brandy pawnee, while I was engaged
sewing two buttons on my waistcoat that had deserted
from their posts during the late engagement. Next
morning we commenced the ascent of the hills at the
back of Zeerust ; it was a long and fatiguing pull, still
it was accomplished before noon.

The view from their summit is truly beautiful, the
landscape being charmingly diversified with hill, wood,
and water, while the white houses of Jacobsdal and
Zeerust peeped out of their dark-green luxuriant orchards
— such a scene as one sees among the Surrey hills, only
the habitations of man were far less numerous here, and
the verdure more intensely brilliant. Charming views can
be seen in Africa as well as in other parts of the world.

My driver uses his whip too much, and those who
know this goad are well aware what a weapon of torture
it can be made. I gently remonstrated, but mutiny and
desertion glared in the eyes of the delinquent, therefore
I said no more ; my time had not yet come, thus the
wretch plied his lash with additional vehemence.

That evening we made a long treck, and did not out-
span till after dark ; fires were lighted, although no wild
beasts were apprehended, still, in a day or two they will
be necessary, and there is nothing like commencing
early.

Next day we toiled over a road rough in portions

HAS THE MAC AL AC A GONE WRONG? 225

from sun-cracks, but otherwise good. Timber became
much more abundant, in places that looked like dry
river-beds it was luxuriant, camile-dorn and the or-
dinary mimosa predominating.

After breakfast I gave Umganey a gorgeous old
cricketing suit, of which blue and yellow were the
chief colours. As he had been elevated to the post
of major-domo it was necessary that he should be looked
up to by his companions, and nothing is more conducive
to this result among blacks — may I not add among
whites ? — as being well dressed. It did one good to see
how his face beamed with delight when he received
the treasures. Umganey when hired and Umganey now
are two totally distinct persons ; then he was thin and
wasted, with a blotchy skin ; now he is fat and sleek,
while his hide shines as if it had been well greased.

Here one of the Macalacas rushed up to me ; he
brandished his assegai, looked volumes, but said nothing
intelligible ; then rent his clothes, or at least took them
off, for he wore an old soldier's coat of the 15th, and
sat down.

The driver stopped the bullocks, and I looked on in
amazement. Was the wretched man about to commit
hari-cari? Had he turned mad, or was this some vile
attempt to create sympathy and prey upon my good
nature ? I looked on and knew not how to act. Should
I kick him or should I pity him ? It was hard to decide,
for I was ignorant of the man's language, and he might
either be the sufferer of some unknown or harassing wrong
or a malingerer. Undecided what to think or do, the
object of my solicitude seized several handfuls of earth,
and not scattering it over his head — as the Jews did of
old — rubbed his chest and armpits with it. Some
p

226 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

dreadful sorrow — fearful grief — must have overtaken
this swarthy member of the human family, and not
knowing how to condole, I left him, entered my wagon,
and lay down.

I had smoked myself into the proper state of dreami-
ness to go to sleep when Umganey raised the curtain
and looked into my apartment. On his face was a grin,
very unsuited to the occasion, for I felt serious. At
length he essayed to speak, and although he doubtless
was voluminous and explicit — and further made up by
pantomime what would have satisfied even a Surrey
audience — I was as much in the dark as ever. My
feelings and patience could stand it no longer ; I sat up
and rubbed my eyes. But Umganey had evidently not
fulfilled his mission, on he chattered and chattered till I
was perfectly nonplussed. That the affair was serious
there could be no doubt — but what the affair was I did
not know — or why should he waste so much breath
upon it ?

I was nearly arriving at the conclusion that my
retainers had all gone mad, that they had seen the Evil
One or some of his emissaries, when Umganey dropped
upon his feet and hands, commenced wallowing about
and grunting, at the same time pointing out on the
velt. Like the glimmer of dawn stealing up in the east
to indicate that day approaches, so a glimmer arose in
my mind that something was intended to be inferred
that would interest me. Again Umganey snorted and
floundered about, and pointed in the direction he pre-
viously indicated. Oh ! that's it, is it ? Game of some
kind was near at hand, and to let me know that such
was the case all this trouble had been taken.

I had the saddle put on the Basuto pony, and,

IN PURSUIT OF THE PIGS. 227

taking my rifle, followed the first disturber of my peace
of mind. The fellow was all himself again, and stepped
out manfully. In three-quarters of a mile he approached
a brow of land. Cautiously he crawled to its summit,
then returned, and indicated that he wished me to do
the same. I dismounted and followed him. Our stalk
was careful and well planned, so I looked over ; and what
did I see, but two well-grown, reddish pigs, with tall,
straight ears, terminating in tassels !

The ground was favourable for riding. Indian an-
tipathies to shooting such game arose in my mind, so I
resolved to kill them with the spear. I had several in
my wagon, weapons made by the best man in England
for such productions, so I returned and fetched one. I
felt the point and edge of the long laurel-leaf-shaped
weapon — in all parts it was as keen as a lancet ; thus
nothing could be more satisfactory for my first essay in
hog-sticking in South Africa.

Over the brow my attendant and self went. In an
instant he squatted in an earth ; but, as the game was
alarmed, I left him to his own devices, and rushed off at
the best speed of my mount in pursuit. The two pigs
kept together, and showed a wonderful amount of
capacity for getting over the ground; for, although I
applied my spurs unsparingly, I could not get within
distance to use my weapon. At first the quarry went
out over the velt, then turned and made for where we
had first seen them, then they turned abruptly in their
course, and rushed to where the Macalaca had taken up
his post. " Pigs go to earth in Africa " flashed across me,
" and the fellow has become earth-stopper." So I put on
a final spurt to blood my lance ; but, just as I supposed
I should succeed in doing so, the foremost charged the
p2

228 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

hole my man was standing in front of; in a moment
the animal went between his legs, tossed him several
feet into the air, and he landed on his back, having
completed a somersault. The foremost pig disappeared
into the bowels of the earth, but the other, doubtlessly
scared by my attendant falling right before him, made a
detour, and again scampered off over the velt.

I could not overlook the insult my gillie had received,
so did my utmost to make my horse overtake the com-
panion of the perpetrator of the outrage. The pursued
and pursuer were both getting tired, though, if anything,
I had the best of it ; but the brute kept doubling so,
backward and forward, that it was as often on my left
flank as on my right. Again and again I tried to bring
my weapon into play, but was baulked. At length a
chance arrived — a slight inequality of the ground gave
me the advantage, and I delivered a severe jobbing
thrust ; but no sooner had the creature felt the steel,,
than, out of sheer perverseness — I am certain for no
other reason — it turned sharp to the left, knocked my
horse's fore-legs from under him, and gave me as clean
a coup as ever man got, or wishes to receive. When I
got up I had stars in my eyes ; I was dumbfounded,
and utterly incapable of further equestrian exploits ;
so I looked after the game still in flight, and heaped
blessings on its head.

When my disaster occurred, the quarry was heading
for the sanctuary its friend was now snugly ensconced
in, and into it it would also go if my attendant did not
bar its way. But, after the rough treatment he had
received lately, I did not expect much of him. But
when little is expected much sometimes is obtained.

The hog approached the hole ; the Macalaca fled so

OUR PIG-STICKING ENDS SUCCESSFULLY. 229

fast that he appeared all arms and legs ; but, wily man !
he had shut the entrance to the earth with several boughs
of the prickliest of mimosa. The stricken creature
rushed at this as if it were nothing — expected to go
through as a bird would a spider's cobweb ; but it had
reckoned without its host, and got stuck in consequence.
The 'cute coloured man saw this, retraced his steps as
rapidly as he retreated, and over the top of the orifice
plied his assegai so dexterously, and with such good
effect, that soon piggy became pork. I thought my
thrust should have disabled the animal, and so it would
with any creature possessed of less than seven lives ; for
it had gone fifteen inches into the centre of the back
close to the spine.

After a shake, and a good rub at my eyes, I did not
find myself much worse, except in feelings, for few of
us like to be taken down a peg by our own species, let
alone by a pig. But my attendant was sadly bruised
and scratched; however, he doubtlessly harboured no
after-feelings of malice, but made it up by feasting to
repletion on the flesh of the perpetrator's nearest
relative. This animal was one of that species — and
common all over the northern portion of the country —
which the Boers vz&fleck-vark.

I had scarcely got back to the wagon, when a jackal,
the ordinary grey species, called by the Kaffirs norwall,
of the skin of which the warmest and finest carosses are
made, crossed the road in presence of the dogs. They
all saw him, and a grand chase ensued — right out in
the open — in which he was run into after going about
a mile.

The other species found here is called the silver
jackal. It has a black saddle-mark on the centre of its

230 THE GEEAT THIRST LAND.

back, plentifully interspersed with white hairs. It is a
very pretty animal, and can be domesticated without
difficulty, although occasionally given to be treacherous.

The voice of the jackal is not in the least dis-
agreeable, as many people imagine — quite the reverse, I
may say. In fact, it often recalled to me the giggle of
a, thoughtless, merry, school-girl. In a quiet still
night — especially if the boys had left their fires and
turned in — these pretty animals would come close round
the wagon and keep up an uninterrupted conversation.
The natives also have a liking for them, and generally
smile, or even laugh, when they hear their voices ; but
there is another feature, a species of cupboard love,
in their love for them — for no flesh do they appear to
have greater avidity.

Another change has come over the appearance of the
ant-heaps ; instead now of being in hillocks, they have two
or three chimney-shaped funnels for entrances rising to
the height of three feet. These chimneys have a bell-
mouth, such as are seen on the metal ventilators on board
ship. As there is a reason for everything constructed
by the animal creation, when of peculiar form or shape
— for example, see the nests of some species of birds
suspended at the termination of the finest limb of a tree,
to make their young or eggs secure from the depredations
of snakes — I puzzled my brains over the subject, but
could not find an elucidation. However, Umganey,
with the assistance of the driver, solved the mystery.
Birds that prey upon ants are numerous in the locality,
so that if the insects carried on their labour exposed,
they would suffer sad diminution of their numbers ; but
by this contrivance they get air, and possibly light,
without exposing themselves to the attacks of their

VENTILATORS OF THE ANT'S HOUSES. 231

persecutors. These ventilators have an extremely queer
effect on the landscape, for they are very numerous, and
impress the mind of the beholder strongly with the know-
ledge that he is not at home, but in a far-distant land.

To day I shot in broad daylight an owl, a beautiful
bird about the size of our English partridge. Its back
is a delicate mottled slate-coloured grey, bearing a
strong resemblance to those feathers I used to value so
much, and which I obtained from the mallard duck, to
make the green-drake fly of the angler. The stomach
and under portion of the wings are snowy white ; the
talons strong but slender ; the bill longer and finer
than in the ordinary species of the family. This bird is
diurnal as well as nocturnal ; its flight is peculiarly swift
and graceful, and it possesses undaunted courage. In
fact, but for its persistent attack upon a bird much
larger than itself, and a total disregard of my presence,
it would not have lost its life. Having carefully skinned
my trophy, I added it to my infant collection, which I
hoped soon to see much increased.

My team of cattle treck admirably; the beasts I
have lately procured are strong and willing ; but the
tout ensemble of the lot is not what it was when they
left Natal. Never mind, " Handsome is that handsome
does."

I forgot to mention that in my fray with the Dutch-
man I sustained a most serious injury to my hand.
Like a goose, I inadvertently put my finger in his
mouth, and he, like a wise man, nearly bit it off ; since
then I suffer much from the sore, the wound doubtless
resulting from the. rascal not cleaning his teeth.

CHAPTEE XXI.

WEARING THE LION COUNTRY.

The Driver and I come to an Understanding — An Addition to the Larder — A
Hospitable Englishman — A Fight between Two of my Native Attendants —
Their Mode of Battle — Some more Pugnacious Boers — I shall have no
Nonsense this time — The Affair satisfactorily ended — The Habit of Shaking
Hands — Another Hospitable Englishman — Exchange of Presents — I meet
some Traders — A Hunt proposed — Hartebeest brought down — A Herd of
Quagga — I Shoot one — The Last Farm — In a Ditch — Rescued — Mr. Froud —
Mr. Fayune— The Leader of the Anti-English Party — In the Transvaal —
Stewed Quagga — Curious Habit at Dinner— A Shooting Contest — My Victory
— Marking off a Farm — Koodoo — Nightly Preparations against Lions — The
Kaminyani — Their Projected Hostilities against King Sechelle — I lose my
Way — Come across a Trader — My Wagon turns up all right — A Pauw.

AT length I have brought the driver to his level. He
was not satisfied by over-flogging the cattle, but turned
his whip upon the dogs and attendants. This, of course,
could not be allowed, so I pointed out the errors of his
ways, and he thought proper, after a little demur, to see
them.

The only casualty to be reported is that one of the
new cattle, bought from "the Count," is sick and unable
to treck. The driver says it has lung-sickness, and I
am not a sufficient judge to decide; whether or not, it is
very annoying to lose its service.

About sunset we crossed three times the erratic
bed of what must be in the rainy season a considerable
river. Its bottom was one mass of giant boulders,
while its banks were fringed with a thick belting of

AN HOSPITABLE ENGLISHMAN. 233

dense timber. At the last ford we stuck for nearly half
an hour, and as it was by this time dark, we out-
spanned soon after getting free. I was cautioned about
this locality, as it frequently harboured lions, and a more
liony place it would be difficult to find, so I had large
fires made, and visited them twice during the night to
see that they were kept up.

During the next day I shot two stein-buck, beautiful
little animals about the size of Scotch roe-deer, but
much lighter in colour. They were a welcome addition
to our larder, for the stock of beef laid in at Zeerust
has rapidly diminished with so many mouths to feed,
and as to the consumption of mealy meal, it is really
alarming. This is supposed to be the staple of your
people's food, and should always be looked carefully
after ; if not it is sure to be wasted. Without a supply
of it you cannot get on, and as it is dear, it adds much
to the expenses of travelling by wagon.

This evening we reached a farmhouse. The pro-
prietor was an Englishman, and entertained me most
hospitably, besides sending to the wagon a quantity of
milk, rusk, and beltong. His nearest neighbour is
another countryman, about twenty miles north, and for
months together he sees no stranger but an occasional
passing Kaffir. Game abounds around him at some
seasons ; but, unless to supply his table and to keep
them from invading his corn, he does not trouble them.

What an example this is for the Boers ! I can
assure the reader — and even then it is difficult to believe
that any Christian could be guilty of such conduct —
that I have seen them practise with their rifles upon
bless-buck and spring-buck, leaving the carcases to rot
upon the plain.

234 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

In the evening, before turning in for the night
while sitting at my fire, an altercation ensued between
two of my attaches — a Mashoona and Macalaca — over
a piece of meat that was broiling. One word led to
another, till both became intensely angry, and although
I did not understand, they were doubtless using the
choicest Billingsgate that they could command. At
length both rushed to the wagon. Umganey whispered
in my ear, " Assegai, Bass," so I sprang up to prevent
them from obtaining these weapons, of which they had
tied an abundant supply along its outside. Frustrated
in their attempt to arm themselves, they rushed upon
each other. I would have interfered, but for my country-
man preventing me, who quietly said, "Let them
fight it out, or you will have no peace." So I let them
do so.

Immediately they clasped each other and com-
menced butting their heads together like a pair of
sheep ; the blows were terrific, for they sounded almost
as load as a well-executed clap of the hands ; there was
no attempt at boxing, only butting, and so effectually
was it performed that blood commenced to flow from
each of the antagonists' noses. After the lapse of five
minutes, employed in this kind of exciting work, both
sat down to recover breath to renew the encounter :
then I interfered, and in half an hour after I saw the
combatants sitting at the same fire and chatting to each
other most cordially, as if the past fight had no place
even in their memories.

My host has an immense kraal for his cattle, the
walls of which are quite six feet high ; still he is in the
act of adding another tier of stones along its top. The
reason for this is, that during the wet season he is much

ANOTHER BOER INTERFERENCE. 235

troubled with lions. Last spring he lost no less than
eight head of bullocks and cows by their inroads.

Trecked at break of day, and in the afternoon arrived
at Liewfontein (Lion Fountain). The outspanning-place
was admirably situated, with water coming to the road.
In the neighbourhood were several Boer houses,
orchards, and large mealy gardens, while poplar and
blue gum-trees margined a pond, a large one, formed by
a dam made by the track. The oxen were very thirsty
when taken out of the yoke, so I ordered them to be
driven to water at once, and went into my wagon for
a snooze.

I had not reposed over a few minutes, when Umganey
rushed to me much excited. " That Boer man shoot ox! "
he said, and disappeared in an instant.

In a moment I pulled on my boots and sprang from
the wagon. Four Boers formed a cordon along the road,
refused to let my cattle drink, and even, thirsty and
parched as the poor creatures were, had forced them out
on the velt. These men were all armed with rifles,
and by their manner denoted their hostility. I in
consequence took down my Martini -Henry, shoved a
dozen cartridges into my trouser pocket, summoned the
driver to attend me, and ordered the cattle to follow
me to the water.

The wielder of the whip was in a terrible funk, and
would have bolted if he could, but I gave him definitely
to understand that he would do so at his risk, for his
services I required as interpreter. Umganey in the
meantime had got the bullocks together and close up
to my heels, and thus I advanced upon the enemy,
who closed together to bar my passage. When within
fifty yards of the foe I made the driver explain that

236 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

the water being on the road was public property, that
my beasts were parched with thirst and must drink, and
if they wanted to do any shooting, they had but to
let me know when they intended commencing. After
this speech they gave place, and the oxen drank to
their hearts' content.

However, the affair was not yet settled ; in half an
hour the Boers returned, considerably reinforced, and
clamorously demanded to see me. Hifle in hand, I
presented myself. At first I dreaded an attack, and all
my boys and attaches, except the driver, seized their
assegais and came to my support. This demonstration
might have been the cause, for immediately afterwards
negotiations were opened which terminated in peace,
and my late foes imbibed as much of my coffee as they
could comfortably carry, while the veterans of the party
joined me in a soupje of brandy. Then all shook hands,
and we were sworn friends for life. This habit of
shaking hands is quite a nuisance among the Dutch
descendants in South Africa. Whether their paws
are clean or dirty, whether they know you or not, they
do it, and would feel mortally offended if you refused.
Supposing you are in a store ; a Boer enters ; he first
shakes hands with the proprietors, and then with all
the customers ; whether he has seen them before or
not is quite immaterial.

The result of hostilities being avoided was that the
entire community, froivs and kinderkins, visited me, and
a fearful diminution of my stock of candy and fancy
biscuits ensued. It is extraordinary how public opinion
will change. From being a mortal enemy, I had become
most popular. My flesh-pots might have had much
to do in this revolution of feeling.

ANOTHER HOSPITABLE ENGLISHMAN. 237

Next day we trecked to another Englishman's. He
was a tall, handsome, grey-haired man of fifty. He
received me most hospitably, and introduced me to his
Dutch wife and numerous progeny. Examining my
wagon, he found that one of the wheels was working
on the axle, so brought his screw-jack, removed it, and
cut out a washer from the hide of a giraffe, to be placed
inside the hub to prevent further friction. After per-
forming this service, which occupied over an hour, and
in which he got himself considerably smeared with
ante-friction grease, he sent me a present of six large
fowls, two large baskets of peaches, and the same of
apples, with quite an extensive assortment of onions,
tomatoes, &c. &c.

To offer to pay for them I knew I could not, with-
out offending; so I thought, what could I spare that
would be useful ? His boots were shabby, and I had a
large stock, so I gave him a pair of new ones, reaching
to the knee, with a strong pair of Latchford spurs
attached. He would have declined, but I insisted ;
when he did not hesitate to tell me that, of all things
he wanted, a pair of English boots were his greatest
ambition ; for since he had been in the country, nothing
but felt shoon had decorated his feet.

Before parting, I gave him a silver-mounted briar-
root pipe, such as would cost at home eight or ten
shillings ; but, not to be outdone in generosity, just as
we commenced trecking, one of his youngsters drove up
a nice heifer, in full milk, as a parting gift from his
sire. I was the gainer in the transactions that had
taken place, but I had used no artifice to be so ; and I
am certain many a year will roll by before the memory
of this pleasant meeting is effaced.

238 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

Next afternoon I met some traders, who were out-
spanned, so I unyoked, to spend the night in their com-
pany. They had their boys busily engaged gathering
wood for the night-fires, as many lions had lately been
seen in the neighbourhood. My people, in consequence,
were instructed to do likewise.

As the sun was still two hours high, we determined
on having a hunt, as there was an abundance of game
around us. They were both well mounted, and, like
the majority of Africanders, were fearless horsemen.

After riding about half a mile, we were within a
few hundred yards of a troop of hartebeests (kama],
At a pre-arranged signal, off we started in pursuit as
fast as our nags could carry us. From the first, I found
that I was outpaced, and to such an extent that I pulled
up to watch the actions of my companions. It was a
glorious sight, and almost recompensed for the labour
and trouble I had gone through. Eegardless of holes
and irregularities of the ground, both traders seemed to
fly, while the game, no longer in doubt of their inten-
tions, emulated each other in their desire to be first.
But the horsemen by degrees, and afterwards faster,
commenced to overhaul them. Seventy yards barely
sever the pursuers from the pursued, when one of the
hunters drops from his horse, fires, and in a moment is
in the saddle, and careering in chase of the game at the
same headlong, break-neck pace.

The shot has apparently been ineffective, for no
animal has fallen. Soon the other trader jumps off and
shoots, but with the same result. However, the quarry
are getting fagged — sure sign that they are fat — and
the hunters ride closer up to them before using their
weapons. Twenty yards do not part the sportsmen

SHOOTING QUAGGA. 239

from the game, when both spring off their horses and
shoot almost at the same moment. The result is that
one brown beast is seen struggling on the ground, and
another, sorely stricken and completely crippled, leaves
the herd.

I had taken up my position of observation under a
solitary tree, for the sake of the shelter it afforded, and
there remained seated after the game fell. I might
have been thus employed about ten minutes, when the
earth resounded with the noise of numerous hoofs. I
sprung up to learn the cause, when I perceived a herd
of quagga galloping up- wind, prancing, bucking, and
kicking like a drove of colts just turned loose. From
the direction they were going, by riding a few hundred
yards I would be within easy shooting distance, so I
jumped into the saddle, and plied my spurs. The quaggas
did not alter their course, but increased their speed. A
strong pull on the curb checked my mount- In a
moment I was on my feet, and singling out the largest,
pressed the trigger. For a moment the dust prevented
me knowing the result, but when it cleared away, one
of the striped beauties was ineffectually trying to follow
its comrades. I hurried up to put it out of pain, but
it charged me, mouth open. When it was about ten
paces distant, I again shot : my aim was the centre of
the head; and with the report the bonnie beast fell to
rise no more.

It was a splendid mature stallion, measuring nearly
fourteen hands at the shoulder, and would have been an
ornament to any zoological garden. Although pleased
at my success, I could not help feeling regret at slaying
even for food such a magnificent animal. However,
there is no flesh that the blacks of this part of the

240 THE GEEAT THIRST LAND.

world like so much; and a good feed of it will put
my people in good temper, and prepare them to face
coming difficulties.

About sunset, I put some shot- cartridges in my
pocket, and went down to the water. In a quarter of
an hour I returned with lour coran, three ducks, and
two hrace of Namaqua partridges — the latter killed at
one shot out of a large flight that passed. The boys
had a glorious feed that night, and so had the jackals,
whose pleasant tittering laugh was to be heard till
daylight terminated darkness. Bidding my friends
good-bye at sunrise, I reached Brackfontein (Salt Water
Fountain) at eleven o'clock.

This is the last farm, and has a most deserted
woebegone appearance. The velt here is perfectly level,
with a distant range of hills to the northward, running
from east to west. The grass is so burnt up that the
surface of the ground looks as if it had been parched,
while the brack pond, covering several acres, is thick
with thousands of different species of water-fowl.

On approaching the farmhouse my wagon mired
quite up to the hubs in a ditch, and all the efforts of
my cattle could not draw it out. I did not wish to
unload, always a tedious process, and was debating what
course to pursue, when the proprietor of the homestead,
without being asked, and solely out of the goodness of
his heart, sent down his team of oxen, which were made
fast to the end of my treck-tow, and with a strong pull,
and a pull together, took us out of our difficulties.

I found here assembled several Boers, and an
Englishman of the name of Proud. The young gentle-
man informed me that he had been an officer in the Eoyal
Engineers, or Artillery, and that now he was the state

JOHN FAYUNE. 241

surveyor for the infant republic of Transvaal. He was
a very successful sportsman, and as proof of his prowess
presented me with half of a noble roy-buck (red) which
he had shot in the morning.

Here I received much courtesy and kindness, John
Fayune, one of the Boers present, speaking English
fluently. I had several times heard of this gentleman be-
fore, and from the character he had received, had no desire
to make his acquaintance, for he. was an acknowledged
leader of the anti-English party, and reputed to be so
bitter against my nationality, that he could scarcely be
civil to them. He had distinguished himself in the
numerous Kaffir wars, was an experienced and very
successful elephant-hunter, had a large connection of
relatives and friends, and was so popular with the
exclusive party that it was whispered that he probably
would be the next President.

Mr. Fayune is of French extraction, and still retains
a great deal of the vivacity of his ancestors' race, stands
about five feet eight, is slight and well-built, getting
grey, and looks about fifty-five. Much to my surprise,
we soon became excellent friends, and he volunteered
me valuable information on routes, watering-places, and
hunting-grounds.

Here I received an invitation to dinner, which I
accepted; the piece de resistance seemed to be stewed
quagga, a dish that, however much admired by Boers
and Kaffirs, I have not yet learned to like.

There is a sweet flavour about the flesh that at
once causes me to feel squeamish ; but there were,
besides, antelope of different kinds, a fine joint of beef,
and vegetables, so there was no necessity of leaving the
board hungry. The people residing here seemed well-
Q

242 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

to-do ; still there was that utter want of cleanliness and
thrift that I have noticed in other of the farmers'
dwellings.

A curious habit prevails here : the males all sit down
to table together, the females waiting upon them, and
not commencing their meal till the former have retired.
In this there appears to me a great want of sociability,
and a deficiency of etiquette to the fair sex. If such
custom were introduced at home, it would produce a
revolution in the land.

As there was a blacksmith and wheelwright here, I
had my wagon overhauled, as it would be my last chance
to replace any portion of it that might be out of order.
This was done, and no charge made for the service,
as no breakage was discovered.

After dinner all the men went out to shoot, possibly
to show the stranger how expert they were with the
rifle. The funnel-shaped ant-hills previously described
were the targets, but the practice was anything but
brilliant. I invariably refuse to enter into such
contests : firstly, I am not a Wimbledon champion ;
secondly, they often lead to jealousies and bickerings ;
so I declined firing till actually obliged to do so. The
first shot I made was a fair one, grazing the side of the
target, the second cut it in two, thus beating my rivals.
That they did not like it was apparent in all but
Mr. Fayune, who laughed most heartily at my success,
and unremittingly chaffed the vanquished at their
defeat. Of course this was a piece of luck — no more —
for doubtless any of them could have beaten me in a
regular trial.

My Martini-Henry at once became an object of
great admiration, and the short barrel elicited much

FIRST KOODOO COMES IN VIEW. 243

surprise at its performance, for the Boers invariably use
weapons of immense length. After my victory, all
mounted and rode off to the north-east to mark out a
new farm. These people have a curious and certainly
primitive way of measuring land — namely, as much as
a horse will walk round in a given time ; accordingly
fast- walking horses are in great demand, and are some-
times sent for a hundred miles or more to be used for
this purpose, the owner of such an animal making
considerable sums of money by letting it out to hire.

I inspanned about half -past three, and in an hour
afterwards had entered dense woodland ; noting that the
road went nearly due north, I struck off to the west to
see what game was in the vicinity. Here I saw the first
koodoo (todo Kaffir name), but did not succeed in getting
a shot. About an hour afterwards I came upon a large
herd of roy-buck ; but the ground they were on was so
dense and thick that I could not follow them on horse-
back, and they obstinately refused to be stalked. I
forgot to mention that Mr. Fayune informed me that
he was certain my horse was not saulted, and that I
would be sure to lose him on the Crocodile Eiver. I
can only hope for the best, for I should indeed be sad
if deprived of my enduring, affectionate, and intelligent
Basuto pony after he has carried me so many miles.

Where we outspanned that evening a lion had been
seen a few days previously, so I personally superin-
tended the collection of wood, placed a loaded rifle and
double -barrel in my bed, so as to be at hand at a
moment's warning; but nothing disturbed us during
the night. The hyaenas appeared to be numerous in the
locality, for their low, plaintive half -whistle, half- wail,
could constantly be heard.

244 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

At evening next day we arrived at the chief village
of a tribe of Kaffirs called Kaminyani. They have been
resident here only about a quarter of a century, and are
established on ground belonging to old King Sechelle,
the man after Dr. Livingstone's own heart. For the
privilege of settling here they have annually paid a
royalty ; but they have waxed fat, obtained immense
herds of cattle, and become bumptious, and refused
longer to acknowledge their suzerain. The consequence
is that an immediate war is apprehended, and the neigh-
bourhood is much disturbed, and reputed as very unsafe
for travellers.

The stronghold of the Kaminyani is on a coppy, or
hill, about eight hundred feet high, and, probably a
mile and a half in circumference at the base. Although
it is an immense jumble of rocks, the inhabitants have
managed to construct their huts in regular tiers up to
the summit, on which stands their chief's residence.
A river runs round two sides of the base, but a
spring is reported to exist higher up among the rocks.
Unless such were the case they could be beleaguered by
a force such as Sechelle could easily send, and in a few
days be compelled to surrender at discretion. Another
thing, in case of war, what are these people going to do
with their cattle ? They could not take them up on the
coppy, for it is almost destitute of vegetation. My
opinion is that they had better reconsider their decision
before they risk hostilities with so powerful a chief.

Next day we traversed velt covered with thorn-
bushes and scattered trees ; saw a few antelope and a
large troop of quagga. I lost my way in the evening,
but two hours after dark, to my great surprise, and, I
may add, joy, came across a trader's wagon outspanned.

PAUW SHOT. 245

This was a most unexpected piece of good luck, for I
not only got a comfortable meal but a bed. The owner
was a young man, and going in the same direction as
myself, so that *I should now have company, the greatest
boon I could desire.

His encampment was abundantly supplied with large
fires, for he possessed two valuable saulted horses, and
lions were known to be in the neighbourhood. About
ten we both turned in, but sleep I could not, for the
wagon actually swarmed with bugs, so I came forth
and passed the remainder of the night on the wagon-
box.

I was, further, very uneasy about my belongings, for
I feared that, during my absence, proper precautions
would not be taken to insure their safety. However,
an hour after sunrise I heard the squeaking of a
wheel that required grease ; I looked up and beheld my
ship of the desert slowly lumbering along towards us.
All was safe, although the cattle had spent a restless
night.

Halting the wagon I had the complaining wheel
attended to, and gave the driver apiece of my mind for
neglecting so important a portion of his duties. Next
afternoon we approached the Notawaney, and must have
seen during the afternoon treck thousands of guinea-
fowls and francolins.

I shot a pauw, a bird weighing over fifty pounds'
weight ; it is a member of the bustard family, and
possesses beautiful plumage. I consequently selected
the choicest of its feathers for the benefit of some of my
salmon-fishing friends.

CHAPTEE XXII.

" LIONS ! "

Travelling Habits of the Lion — His Haunting the Vicinity of Water — Conduct
by Night and by Day — A Wearisome Treck — The Lion in the Matabele
Country — The Skulking Hyaenas — Wounds of the Natives — Livingstone on
the South African Lion— The Bakatlas and the Lion — A Lion's Eevenge —
Livingstone Attacked — The Lion's shaking of his Prey — The Macalaca and
his Musket — Our Bay Horse — Lions Expected — Precautions against Assault
or Plunder — How Children are often Lost — The Notawaney — A Frightful
Incline — "Lion!" — An Uncomfortable Night — The Scene of the Lions'
Depredation — Horse Dead — Our People descend from their Trees — Col-
lecting our Cattle — Bullock shot Dead in mistake for a Lion — Bravado —
Tracing the Spoor — Come upon a Lioness — Killed on the Spot.

" You will not hear a lion until you have crossed the
JSTotawaney Eiver," echoed in my ears Curtin, Gordon,
Eeed ; and, in fact, all the authorities in Zeerust said the
same thing, although it was an undisputed fact that
three had heen seen close to Potschefstrom road a week
or two hefore, and another had heen killed a month or
two previously in the vicinity of Klerksdorp. On this
occasion the prophets were correct; but it was one of
those chance circumstances that sometimes occur, and
lead to the belief that persons occasionally have the gift
of divination.

The fact is that lions travel so much in the wet season
that if there is one within a hundred miles of you, you
can never feel certain that it will not pay you a visit ; they
appear and disappear in the most mysterious manner, and
generally in the most unexpected way. Thus you may

DRINKING HABITS OF THE LION. 247

pass through the most suitable-looking haunts for the
lord of beasts, and yet not discover a sign that would
indicate his presence ; while, on the other hand, on the
open bare velt, 'where there is scarcely enough shelter to
hide a Namaqua partridge, up his highness will rise
before you as if he had sprung out of the soil.

Of one thing, however, you may feel certain : you
will not discover him very far from water, unless at the
season when the sexes come together, and then their
conduct seems governed by no rule. At other times the
lion always drinks once in twenty -four hours, frequently
twice, immediately after dark or just before day breaks ;
but if he should chance to kill game during the day, and
have made a hearty meal of it, before retiring to sleep
he will go to water. As the lion is almost entirely
nocturnal in his habits, this does not occur frequently,
except in such distant, out-of-the-way places as are
seldom intruded on by human beings. That the lion
loves not man is certain, and by daylight will always
avoid him if possible, unless he be come upon unawares,
or be wounded, in either of which cases he will make a
stand, and in the latter assuredly show fight.

The afternoon that we approached the Notawaney
the clouds appeared surcharged with rain ; towards
sunset the whole face of the western horizon looked so
dark and gloomy that one might well imagine that they
intended to shut out the coming day.

I had. had a long, wearisome, trying treck ; game had
been abundant on both sides of the route, but, with the
exception of shooting a few francolins and guinea-fowl,
I had not had my gun in my hands. But for the
thorns this might have been otherwise ; for they were
so numerous, so dense, that I could not bring myself to

248 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

sucli an act of cruelty as to ride a horse through them.
The wait-a-bit, the binder, and the Mimosa /wrridilis,
or ivory needle, seemed here to revel and live in such
close vicinity, that they were evidently on the most
friendly terms.

It was expected that the river would be reached by
sunset ; but the road had been so heavy, and the heat
so oppressive, that it now became obvious that we should
be at least a couple of hours late.

As the Notawaney is not fordable immediately after
heavy rains, and there was every indication that such
were about to fall, it was imperative that we should
push on, and get across before a flood descended. It is
a standing rule among African travellers always to cross
a river that you come to in your route ; let what will
happen after that is performed, you are then on the
right side.

To what I have said about the lion here I should
add one notable exception — namely, that in the Mata-
bele country, where wars have been carried on incessantly
for nearly half a centmy, the King of the Felidse has
become so bold, that he not only hunts by day, but will
attack man without the slightest provocation. This is
to be accounted for by the number of wounded and
maimed men — unable to protect themselves — that have
crawled off from the fight into the bush. This has even
had an effect upon the hyaenas ; for in the country of
Lubengulo they are so bold that they have been known
to attack people, and it is no uncommon occurrence to
hear that children nine or ten years of age have been
carried off by them in broad daylight.

Among the Mashoonas, Macalacas, and Matabeles,
it is frequently to be observed by strangers that many

ABOUT THE SOUTH AFRICAN LION. 249

of these people have fearful gashes on their face — a
wound that looks as if the cheek had been torn off — and
such, in fact, is the case. The unfortunate has been lying
asleep on the velt by his fire, when the cowardly skulker
has stolen upon him, and, with the rapidity of lightning,
and a force that is irresistible, torn off the victim's cheek.
These depredations are to be attributed to the large
spotted hysena, a beast that sometimes attains the height
of a small donkey.

Before continuing my narrative, let me see what
that apostolic man, David Livingstone, has to tell us
yi his " Travels in Africa " about the character of the
South African lion.

"The Bakatla of the village Mabatsa were much
troubled with lions, which leaped into their cattle-pens
by night, and destroyed their cows. They even attacked
the herds in open day. This was so unusual an occurrence,
that the people believed that they were bewitched —
' given/ as they said, * into the power of the lions by a
neighbouring tribe.' They went once to attack the
animals, but, being rather a cowardly people compared
to Bechuanas in general on such occasions, they returned
without killing any."

Now these Bakatla were a peaceable, almost effeminate
people, who supported themselves by their cattle and
agriculture, and had lately suffered much from raids
made upon them by their more warlike neighbours. The
result was that many were driven off into the desert,
wounded and starving, to become a prey to wild beasts.
Thus the audacity of these lions is easily accounted for.

Again, " It is well known that if one in a troop of
lions is killed, the others take the hint, and leave that
part of the country."

250 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

This frequently occurs, but cannot be accepted as a
rule ; for I have known, when a lion has been killed,
its mate has wandered about day and night, wreaking its
vengeance on whatever came in its way ; in fact, taking
revenge manyfold for the injury it had suffered. A
brute, when actuated by these feelings, as may well
be imagined, is most dangerous, and bold to a degree if
necessity require it, at the same time cunning and
stealthy ; and large as they may be, like all the cats,
they have a faculty of hiding from observation truly
surprising.

" When in the act of ramming down the bullets, I
heard a shout. Starting, and looking half round, I saw
the lion just in the act of springing upon me. I was
upon a little height ; he caught my shoulder as he
sprang, and we both came to the ground below together.
Growling horribly close to my ear, he shook me as a
terrier dog does a rat. The shock produced a stupor,
similar to that which seems to be felt by a mouse after
the first shake of the cat. It caused a sort of dreami-
ness, in which there was no sense of pain or feeling of
terror, though quite conscious of all that was happening.
It was like what patients partially under the influence
of chloroform describe, who see all the operation but
feel not the knife.

" This singular condition was not the result of any
mental process. The shake annihilated fear, and allowed
no sense of horror in looking round at the beast. This
peculiar state is probably produced in all animals killed
by carnivora, and if so, is a merciful provision of our
benevolent Creator for lessening the pain of death."

Wonderful indeed are the works of the Almighty ;
even the inferior animals, although constituting the

THE MAOALAOA'8 TREASURE. 251

food of carnivorous brutes, do not die a death of pro-
tracted pain, but breathe out their life in a fortunate
state of unconsciousness of pain.

It is also a well-known fact, and I have seen many
instances of it, that the wound produced by a lion's tooth
breaks out and discharges periodically for several years
to come after the injury has been done. This probably
is caused either by the saliva, or corrupt animal matter
adhering to the tusk inoculating the sore. But to my
narrative.

About half an hour before sunset it commenced to rain,
and the wind fell almost to a dead calm. At the time I was
accompanied by the young trader previously mentioned,
whose wagon followed mine about one hundred yards in
rear ; behind it was all our loose stock — horses, spare oxen,
and two or three cows ; these were followed by several
blacks, specially among whom was a man of mine, a
Macalaca, who was returning to his far-distant home
from the Diamond-fields, where he had been to work
in order to obtain the much-coveted musket, great coat,
and blanket. The care he took of the first-mentioned
showed with what affection he regarded his treasure —
and never for a moment did he permit his loved weapon
to be out of his sight, I may almost say out of his
hands. It mattered not how warm it was, or how
much he suffered from want of water, or what scampering
he had to do over the velt to keep the oxen and horses
together, his musket was in his hands, although he
might have placed it in my wagon, where it would have
been perfectly safe.

Among the loose cattle was a magnificent after-ox
belonging to my comrade, a splendid beast, very fat,
and as docile as an old milk-cow. It was beautifully

252 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

marked with black and white — in fact, was just such
an animal as the eye of any one, connoisseur or not,
would have rested on with admiration. Having men-
tioned one of the dramatis persona who nourished in
what I am about to relate, I will give an outline ot
another. This was. a large, powerful bay horse, with
black points. Although not possessed of much speed,
it was very lasting and steady under fire, and had the
reputation of being the best elephant-horse in the
country. Being saulted — although past mark of mouth
— it cost one hundred and twenty pounds in Marico,
nearly two hundred miles to the south, so was of
considerably more value here.

In accordance with my habit, I was ahead, walk-
ing about fifty yards in front of my leading-cattle,
with three or four of the dogs about me, when the
young trader came up and joined me. His conversa-
tion commenced with the remark, that he did not like
the appearance of the night, and that if lions were
about the ford, they would be certain to be up to
mischief.

" What makes you think so ? " I inquired.

" Just the night for them : on a clear night, or a
calm night, you have little to fear from them. They
will roar and make a row ; but when they do that you
need not trouble your head about them ; but on such a
night as this, they are as silent as a mute, and the first
thing you know about them is that they are on the
back of an ox or a horse. Captain, why don't you
carry your gun ? You might want it here, I tell you,
and I would not just keep so far ahead of the fore-
loper."

So with him I returned to get my double -barrel,

HOW BOER CHILDREN ARE OFTEN LOST. 253

while lie went to his own conveyance to give instruc-
tions to the people in rear of it to be particular to keep
the loose stock together, and close up to the wagon.

In trecking, the point of danger — the place, in fact,
from which you have most to apprehend from the
attacks of wild beasts — is the rear, or behind the last
wagon, when there are two or more together. It is
from this reason that so many Boer and Kaffir children
have been carried off by lions, as the favourite seat of
these youngsters, and possibly the safest from other
kinds of accidents, is the back part of the wagon, on
which there is frequently a board slung to serve them
as a seat.

The Notawaney has abrupt and precipitous banks on
both sides : here, at dry seasons, the stream does not
flow, but is in a succession of deep, stagnant pools,
some of which extend a couple of hundred yards in
length.

The sun had been down quite half an hour when
I reached the southern bank ; the other wagon was close
up, and all the loose cattle in their place. Putting
on the brake, down my belongings slid to the bottom ;
it was hazardous work, as the darkness had become very
intense, so much so that I do not believe the driver
could see more than an ox-length in front. When
at the bottom we halted for a few minutes. The driver
yells, " Amaga!" but the wagon is stuck. Another
effort, still it does not move, but Umganey and myself
go to the driver's assistance, and through shouting and
whipping force the cattle to lay against their yokes,
and we slowly climb up the incline.

This incline resembled an artificial cutting, and was
margined on both sidse by a dense growth of trees, ever

254 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

the case in the vicinity of water in South Africa. At
the top of the bank I told the driver to stop for a few
minutes, in order that I might assist my companion
if he got into difficulties. Like myself he reached the
bottom safely, but unfortunately there he became a
fixture. For nearly half an hour we could not release
him; however, patience and perseverance, as in every
instance, had their reward, and the exhausted oxen,
grunting over the severity of their toil, at length hung
to their work and hauled together : the wagon again
moved, slowly at first, soon more rapidly, till the
summit was passed.

But during these vexatious delays, the cattle that
were loose took advantage of the absence of their guard,
and strayed up and down the margin of the river.
Orders were issued to have them re-collected without
delay, and we trecked slowly on to the next out-
spanning-place, to be followed up by them as soon as
possible.

For quite two hundred yards of our course the trees
almost interlocked over our heads, while their stems
beneath were hid in the densest description of matted
underbrush.

With a feeling of relief we both got successfully
through the woods, and entered again open velt, and
we were congratulating ourselves that our work was
over, when the yell of several people, the report of a
gun, and an attempted panic among the working cattle,
informed us that something unusual had taken place.
Of what it was we were not long kept in ignorance,
for one of our people, breathless from fright and
exertion, came up shouting "Taou 1" (Bechuana, lion.)

My friend and self rushed towards the scene of

LIONS PROWLING ABOUT US. 255

action, with our guns ready for service ; but I had not
gone many yards when Umganey stopped me, en-
deavouring, in the few broken words of English he could
command, to prevent me going any farther.

"What does the fellow say?" I asked my com-
panion.

" That the lion can see in the dark, and if you go
near him now, he will see to kill you, while you can't
see to shoot him."

While Umganey 's interruption occurred, several
voices from the vicinity of where the accident had
happened called out, in Bechuana, that it was a quay
(young cow) that had been killed. This was reassuring,
for both had dreaded that the marauders had selected a
horse, for, strange to say, they invariably choose that
animal before all others for their prey.

My friend turned to me, and said, " We had better
listen to Umganey's advice, as it is only a cow ; there is
no use running any risks for it." So we returned to
the wagons, had large fires made, and planned our
course of action for the morrow.

We could not help, however, being uneasy, for more
than half our people were missing, and all the loose
cattle and horses absent, they having doubtless in their
alarm stampeded back.

A more uncomfortable night I have not often passed.
A disagreeable, drizzling rain continued falling, and we
dare not take shelter ; moreover, the dogs were kept in a
constant state of alarm, giving utterance to their feelings
of fear by incessant whines and suppressed growls ;
while from the wood on the margin of the river, the
lions were evidently having a battle over their prey;
jackals and hyaenas around them giving vent to their

256 TEE GREAT THIRST LAND.

feelings by wailing because they were not participators in
the feast.

About three in the morning I had been round the
fires to urge the boys to keep them up, when suddenly
the draft oxen, who were tied to their yokes — the far
end of the treck-tow being fastened to a tree — made a
desperate effort to break loose ; but fortunately they
were all secured with new buffalo reims, which I had
procured in Marico to be used on such occasions as the
present.

At length day broke, and we started for the scene
of action, both armed with double eight-bore guns.
We were not long kept in doubt what had been the
victim, for there lay a large portion of the hind quarters
of the old bay elephant-horse; but where were the
lions ? We did our best to discover them, but the
underbrush was so dense that we could not hope for
success.

From several of the neighbouring trees our absent
people now descended. In them they had been perched
all night ; and what between bruises, thorns, and wet,
looked indeed the personification of misery. The tall
Macalaca also presented himself : he also had found a
hiding-place ; and from him we learn that he had fired
at one of the lions, and was certain he had wounded it.
Whether this was so or not, all agreed in the statement
that the lions, of which they said there were seven, had
only left the remains of the carcase when they heard us
approach.

The missing cattle had now to be recovered; and
we were far from feeling satisfied that we knew the
extent of our losses. Taking the back trail, we spoored
them for two miles along the road; here they had

AFTER THE BRAGGART LIONS. 257

branched off (horses and cattle) to the right, traversed
about three miles of velt, and halted in the open plain.
The quantity of blood on the trail we could not under-
stand at the time, but when we overtook the runaways
the mystery was at once explained. The Macalaca, in
his anxiety to kill a lion, had either missed that animal
and lodged his bullet in an ox, or else in the dark
mistaken the ox for a lion. Whichever way it was,
there lay the handsome black and white bullock, with
every evidence that the hours of its life were numbered,
so the edict went forth for it to be slaughtered.

Eeturning to the wagons an hour or two afterwards,
we found that in our absence the lions had come back,
and taken away the remaining portion of the horse.
This looked so much like an a£t of bravado that we
resolved to make another effort for the destruction of
some of their number; but among our people, none
could be got venturesome enough to undertake the
spooring. The promise of a cup of gunpowder ultimately
induced the Macalaca to volunteer ; and from the mas-
terly manner in which he commenced his work, it was
easy to see that he was an old hunter.

Soon he led us across the thick jungle on to more
open ground ; this he traversed at a rapid pace till some
loose rocks forming the margin of a coppy were reached.
For a few minutes he appeared at fault, when, looking to
his left, with a grunt he pointed his finger, brought his
gun down, and cocked it. Looking in the direction
indicated, a lioness, with the hip-bone of the horse
between her fore legs, lay facing us. Her expression
denoted that she was anything but pleased by the in-
terruption. At the time she was seventy-five yards off
— too far to make certain work ; so we resolved to lessen
R

258 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

the distance by one -half. While doing so, two lions that
must have been behind the rocks got up, walked
leisurely away, gradually increasing their speed, till
they disappeared.

Such conduct was evidently not going to be pursued
by her ladyship. With her eyes firmly fixed on us, and
her head flat upon the ground, she watched our move-
ments with an earnestness of expression that cannot be
found in any other animal, her tail all the time moving
gently to and fro.

My companion quietly said, sotto voce, " Don't fire till
you see her ears twitch ; " and scarcely had he said so than
they were drawn back with a quick spasmodic motion.
" Now's our time," he said ; and a brace of bullets, one
in the shoulder and another in the head, turned her over
on her side, dead. Not a struggle occurred after the
shots were fired, and so simultaneously were the triggers
pressed that the two reports sounded as one.

On returning to the wagons we soon discovered what
had made the oxen attempt to stampede, and the dogs
so uneasy during the night. Several lions — the boys
said five — had walked repeatedly round our encampment
at less than a hundred yards' distance. In spite of the
drizzling rain, there remained the spoor, a proof that
the lads' assertions could not be controverted.

CHAPTEE XXIII.
ON GORDON CUMMING'S GROUND.

English Park-like Scenery — My Companion does the Shooting — We meet a
Boer Family — A Picnic on the Limpopo — The Gentle Art — Oar Captures —
The Belle of the Party— A Walk by the River-side— A Shriek— The Lion
wounded to the Death — How the Lion was disturbed — Boer Women have
no Fear of Wild Beasts — The Drinking-place of the Animals— The Mapaney
Bush — The Boomslang Tree — Gordon Gumming' s Driver — A Memorable
Tree — The Limpopo River — The Animals that are found here— How I lost
a Dog — A Fine Night — My Pony Restless — I replenish the Fires — A Tell
and a ShoWThe Dog brained— The Panther's Prey— A Good Shot-
Bringing down Hartebeest — The Basuto Pony Sick — The Symptoms of hig
Disease — On the Spoor of the Giraffe — Honey-bird — Curious Superstition —
Bagging my Second Pauw — The Black Bullock Dead— Swindled — Poor Pony
Worse — His Intense Sufferings — Death puts an End to his Agony — The
Secretary Bird — A Fight between One and a Snake — Origin of their Name
— A Peculiar Insect — A Gathering of Boers — Welcomed — Religious Service
— Impressive Scene.

AFTER leaving the Notawaney, we made three trecks
through velt densely covered with thorns, and margined
by heavy timber. Gruinea-fowl and francolin were very
abundant, while turtle-doves cooed from every tree.
The country, although flat, is very pretty, and not
unlike some English park scenery, owing to the quantity
and diversity of the timber. Although close to the
edge of the tropic of Capricorn, the foliage is far more
characteristic of a temperate climate than of a tropical
one.

I carry my gun or rifle constantly with me now,
but it is more for protection to myself and animals than
anything else, for all day large antelopes have been
R 2

260 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

within sight of us in one direction or another, and I
have not pulled a trigger upon them. As if by common
consent, my travelling - companion does the shooting,
and I eat of the results of his prowess. As a rule there
are no class of people more jealous of each other than
sportsmen. It may be perhaps because I have killed
such quantities of game, in nearly every part of the
world, that my ardour has cooled ; but whether on a
Scotch grouse moor or deer forest, an American prairie
or African velt, I would sooner far see another do the
shooting than do it myself. Yet I love to look on
and see good work done in a proper sportsman-like
manner.

Where we are now is the centre of Grordon
Cumming's huntiDg-ground. Elephants and buffaloes
have become scarce since then in this locality; but
there is still enough of other varieties of game to satisfy
any but the most bloodthirsty. I wonder if his ghost
now wanders about here in company with the spirits-
of the game he slew !

About eleven o'clock we crossed a small stream with
very steep banks ; then, following the course of the road,
turned off to the eastward, trecked on for about a mile,
and halted in the middle of a fine open outspanning-
place on the margin of the Limpopo. Two strongly-
built, high, and massive kraals stood close by, ominous
indications that the lord of the forest was fond of the
neighbourhood. Small blame to him, I say, for selecting
so pretty a locality.

While outspanning, up came another wagon; the
young trader knew its inmates, and accordingly in-
troduced me. They were a Boer family travelling to a
distant settlement, and consisted of a young husband,

ANGLING ON THE LIMPOPO. 261

younger wife, sister-in-law, and baby. As they spoke
only a few words of English, and I an equally limited
amount of Dutch, our conversation was not particularly
instructive, in fact, I may say it was a little mixed.
But for what I lacked the young trader made up ; thus
soon it was arranged that we should remain where we
were, as it was Saturday, and not treck till the following
afternoon.

As the Limpopo abounds with fish, we decided after
lunch to try our skill in the gentle art, I promising that
if the ladies would join us at the river, Umganey should
make coffee for the party — in fact, try my best to make
them have " a good time." My motion was carried
without opposition, so I had my chairs removed to the
water's edge, a fire lit, and everything put in order to
render the picnic as pleasant as possible.

About three o'clock we commenced fishing, each
having his whip-stick for a rod. Our tackle was
primitive, and our bait a piece of fat. However, the
fish here were not skilled in the deceptions practised by
man, they bit ravenously, and consequently in a very
short space of time we had captured more than we
knew what to do with, for Kaffirs will not eat them at
any price. Our basket consisted of two genera, one of
which was what is called here the big scale, resembling
very much the white fish (Coregonus albus) of the United
States and Canada. Some of our prizes weighed
upwards of ten pounds, and were evidently in first-class
condition. The other fish were silurida of different
species — some very large, black, and rather repulsive,
others bright, beautifully spotted, and silvery. When
the sport was at its height, a crocodile popped up his
ugly snout close by, but before a rifle could be brought

262 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

to bear upon him, lie had disappeared ; however, the
fish refused further to be taken, or else, fearing the
interloper, had departed for other haunts.

About four the ladies joined us ; Umganey was in
great form, and soon produced an admirable cup of
coffee for each, while a tin of fancy biscuits was handed
round. Having allowed sufficient time for these good
things to be consumed, as a piece de resistance a bottle
of sugar-plums was brought forth. The way the dear
creatures took to them was charming, and how they
disappeared was marvellous.

However, the young mother was called away to
attend to the wants of her progeny, but the sister-in-
law remained. I have so often spoken of fat Boer girls
that I am almost ashamed again to allude to the
subject, and will therefore go no further than to say
that the belle of our party was no exception to the rule
that seems to govern her race in this part of the
world.

At last the young lady became tired of inactivity,
and wandered along by the river's margin. She might
have thought such charming rustic occupation would
entitle her to the attention of a swain ; but I could not
speak her language, the young trader did not evidently
believe in love-making, so she was allowed to proceed
alone. She might have left us ten minutes probably,
not more, when we heard a shriek so loud and piercing
that each picked up his rifle and rushed towards the
girl. What on earth could be the matter ? Perfectly
still, she stood gazing at something.

The race was to the swiftest, the brother-in-law was
first by her side ; next instant his heavy elephant-rifle
was at his shoulder, the report echoed away in the

A BOLD BOER WOMAN. 263

distance, and with it another sound, the yell of a lion
wounded to the death. We were soon on the scene :
the marauder struggled in hopeless agony, for his back
was broken. A shot through the head at a few paces
ended his career.

The young lady had disturbed his lordship taking
his siesta on the edge of the reeds ; at first she was
under the impression that he was going to spring on
her, but the shrill yell she gave, and her pluck in
remaining facing him, seemed to have changed his
resolution. Boer women, having from childhood up-
wards been associated with wild beasts and reptiles, have
not the dread of them that our home-bred beauties
possess.

The river is very lovely here, and is almost equally
divided into pools and rapids about the size of the
Thames at Maidenhead, and nearly uninterruptedly
clothed with wood. As a rule the timber does not come
to the margin of the water, but a belt of sand twenty
or thirty yards wide severs them ; this is particularly
noticeable on the inner side of a bend in the river, these
banks becoming the favourite resting-place of crocodiles.

At sunset I found much pleasure in sitting on the
brow of the stream watching the opposite sand; being free
from bush.it appeared to be selected by the greater portion
of the weaker beasts for a drinking-place. First, the
guinea-fowls and francolins would make their appear-
ance at the edge of the sand, having stealthily crept out
from the bush, after taking a good survey up and down
to see that no danger lurked near, and being satisfied,
they would run across the sand and enter the water to
take a hurried wash and drink, the whole manoeuvre not
occupyiog a couple of minutes, after which they would

264 THE GEEAT THIRST LAND

retreat in the same cautious manner. Then the larger
animals would follow, the timid and weak first, the
stronger varieties later on.

For the greater safety of our cattle we took advan-
tage of the kraals ; but with the exception of a lion
howling across the river, and a few hyaenas and jackals
around our bivouac, we were untroubled with night
marauders. Such was the wind-up of the day on which
we picnicked on the Limpopo.

Here there is a great alteration in the appearance of
the velt, for the reason that the terrible thorn scrub is
giving place to the mapaney bush, a strange yet far
from unattractive member of the vegetable kingdom.

I will attempt to describe it, for the farther we
proceed north it becomes more abundant, till ultimately
it altogether assumes the place of the ivory-needle thorn.
Its leaf is thick and fleshy, with the stem, arteries,
and veins deeply marked; the shape resembles the
wings of a butterfly, or, rather, two hearts joined, which,
when the sun becomes extremely hot, close together
upwards, thus affording very little shelter from its rays.
The height it grows to is usually about three feet,
although under favourable circumstances — where the
soil is moist and shelter from larger trees found — I have
noted it attain an altitude of six feet. As the stems
are thin, pliant, and very brittle, there is no difficulty
in galloping through it, and as it is without thorns no
injury occurs to your horse from doing so. The smaller
antelopes are very partial to this cover, so much so that
if you approach cautiously up wind to a clump of it
you are certain to get a chance to bowl over a stein-
buck or diker. Cattle and horses will not eat it ; this is
to be regretted, for if in its foliage they found satis-

AN HISTORICAL TREE. 265

factory food, it would prevent them wandering many a
sorry mile in search of pasturage.

After two more trecks we arrived at the boomslang
tree. This tree is almost historical, for when Grordon
Gumming was encamped under its shelter, his faithful
and well-tried driver Hendrick was seized and carried
off from under his wagon by a lion. The intrepid
hunter afterwards revenged his death, but even in that
there is little consolation for the loss of a valuable
servant.

This tree resembles a gigantic ash, has a very spongy,
smooth bark, with a small, fish-shaped leaf. On its
bark were cut the names of the most celebrated travellers
that have visited this region, prominent among which
are those of Gordon Gumming, now nearly obliterated
from the ravages of time ; Baynes, the well-known ex-
plorer ; Hartley, the great elephant-hunter ; and Mauch.
In a weak moment I added my own. Its latitude is
just to the south of the tropic of Capricorn, and within
thirty yards of the beautiful Limpopo. This stream, if
in England, would cause poets to rave about its attrac-
tions, and they certainly would have a subject deserving
of their raptures, for its clear waters, wooded banks, and
constantly repeated pools and rapids — here and there
interrupted by beds of rocks or massive boulders — give it
a bewitching air of enchantment.

The first time I viewed this portion of the charming
river, on the opposite bank basked several crocodiles, while
francolins and guinea-fowls dusted themselves in the
loose sand. In the adjoining trees was a quantity of
the pretty little grey monkey, familiar to the neigh-
bourhood, while a little farther down its course drank
about a dozen of the awkward-looking, but powerfully-

266 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

built bastard hartebeest. Elephants had been here
lately ; their spoor was to be seen all over the neigh-
bourhood, and broken and felled trees attested the
strength of this mighty rover of the forest.

The hippopotamus is also found, but not in
such abundance as in years gone by. Nevertheless,
every morning before the dew has left the grass, his
immense tracks are easily recognised. In the forays
that this ungainly animal makes nightly in search ol
food, it raises its feet so slightly that all that obstructs
his passage gets broken down, thus leaving behind a
well-marked path.

Although I did not lose a driver here, I lost a dog,
fortunately the very one of my pack that I could best
spare ; it was a cross between the bulldog and mastiff ;
it possessed not a particle of courage ; and, worse than
that, it had a hankering affection for the wagon and the
good things that it contained, that made it no easy
matter to induce it to follow me.

"When I purchased the brute I truly thought I had
obtained a treasure, and the way he fought with his
companions to establish his position made me believe
that he would prove a useful and formidable companion
in the pursuit of the ferce nature ; but he had not been
with me more than a few days when he appeared to
lose all heart, and live but to gratify his appetite.

In these distant countries, and following such a life
as I am now doing, the horse becomes one of the most
watchful animals you possess. During darkness they
will very seldom lie down, because I suppose in that
state they could be taken at disadvantage by prowling
marauders. The following incident happened in this
way.

A SNAP-SHOT THAT KILLS A DOG. 267

After my habit I had tied the little bay Basuto
pony to the after-wheel of the wagon. I had been
asleep several hours, when I was aroused by a sudden
jerk upon it. Picking up my gun, and shoving my feet
into slippers, I went out to discover what made the
horse so restive. The night was fine, with a clear
unclouded moon, such a moon that, with the exception
of the hunter's moon in America, could nowhere else
be seen. As far as I could note, there was nothing in
the vicinity to alarm the animals ; so I turned my
attention to the fires, which were now reduced to a mass
of glowing ashes. On similar occasions, and under such
circumstances (fine clear nights), fires are of little use;
still, as an abundant supply of fuel had been col-
lected, I placed a quantity on my own fire, the after
one just behind the wagon, then went forward, and did
the same to the one in front of the leading bullocks.
I noticed that the majority of the oxen were standing,
and facing in the same direction ; still I did not
consider that a circumstance deserving of particular
consideration.

I scratched Swartland's withers and fondled his head,
then spoke to Buffle, and afterwards had a talk with
Poonah ; and while doing so I heard a yell from the
wagon ; in a moment I jumped on one side, so as to
avail myself of the light of the fire ; almost instan-
taneously something passed between me and it ; I
fired a snap-shot, and, to my disgust, I found I had
shot — dead as a stone — the worthless dog. At the
moment I fired he was in the jaws of a panther, and
the injuries he had sustained from its fangs showed that
if my luckless bullet had not ended his career, he
could not have long survived the frightful gashes along

268 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

his loins. It's no use regretting, but had my ball gone a
foot farther back, I doubtless would have had a splendid
hide to repay me for my loss, if such it deserves to be
considered.

Here I made what I thought a wondrously good
shot, yet it was one of those lucky incidents that are
the exception, not the rule. I found some hartebeest
in the woodlands ; they were very wary, and as the
Basuto had not speed enough, I could not overtake
them. I, however, followed the game for nearly an
hour ; but whenever I dismounted to fire, they managed
to get trees and bushes between myself and the object
of my aim. At length my perseverance drove them
into the open country, on reaching which they all went
off as hard as they could scamper. I was going to give
the chase up as a hopeless job, although we wanted
meat, so was about to retrace my steps when the
antelopes halted.

They were over five hundred yards distant, still I
raised my sight, knelt on the ground, and took aim —
not that I expected to kill, I can assure you — when,
with the report, the leader of the herd sprung into the
air, pitched upon her head, made half a dozen ineffectual
efforts to regain her legs, each more futile than the
preceding, then turned upon her flank, and yielded up
the last remains of vitality.

I am in great trouble. My poor little Basuto
pony, the last of my Natal stud, has died of horse-
sickness. Thus I have to grieve over the double loss of
a most valuable animal and also a hardy affectionate
companion. We have travelled so far together that
I am certain the reader will agree with me that the
manner of his death deserves to be explained.

CHALLENGED BY A HONEY-BIRD. 269

When turned out to feed in the morning, contrary
to his habit — instead of commencing grazing — he went
and lay down. Umganey called my attention to the
circumstance ; but, not being conversant with horse -
sickness and its symptoms, I thought nothing of the
matter, but went out to shoot some guinea-fowl or
francolins. On my return, about eleven o'clock, I pro-
ceeded to look at my poor little beast ; he was evidently
very ill, and so restless that he could not lie still in the
sequestered corner he had chosen ; during a quarter of
an hour I was with him he must have got up and lain
down four or five times. The symptoms of the disease
that showed themselves now were great puffiness over
the eyes, which themselves seemed to have lost all lustre,
great swelling beneath and between the jaw-bones, a hot
crusted nose, a staring coat, with much sweating along
the flanks. I was perfectly helpless to relieve him — I
had never heard of a cure, and the sufferer appeared too
far gone to be benefited, even if I did.

As the horse could not travel in this state, I gave
orders for trecking to be postponed till the morrow,
and, accompanied by a Macalaca — the fellow who shot
the ox — went out to shoot. About a mile from home
we struck the spoor of some giraffes, but it was too stale
to follow. This is the first of their long slipper-like
footprints I have seen. At this time a honey-bird came
and challenged us to follow it, we did so for half an
hour, when it led us to a very large mimosa-tree, with
one of its limbs torn off. My attendant ascended it,
and procured about a pound of beautiful honey, in a
comb as white as snow. The natives, but I am not of their
opinion, firmly believe that this bird is not to be trusted
— that it will frequently lead those who follow it up to

270 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

lions and snakes. Such, a supposition is easily accounted
for — in following the bird, a lion may have been en-
countered, or a snake nearly trodden upon ; but that it
is the honey the knowing little scoundrel is after there
is no 'doubt in my mind. Its perfect confidence in man is
extraordinary — it will hover in your face, sometimes you
may almost imagine that it is going to light upon your
shoulder, after which it will fly forward a few paces, and,
by its actions and voice, do all in its power to keep at-
tracting your attention. It is customary, after robbing
the bees' nest, to leave some of the spoils as a reward to
the discoverer.

Although I saw several different species of antelope,
I did not shoot at any, as the range within which they
permitted me to come was always very long. However,
I bagged my second pauw, a fine bird, but not so large
as its predecessor.

On getting back to the wagon I found the black
bullock that I had purchased from the Count dead ; it
had never worked since the first day after leaving
Zeerust, and then only for a few hours. This was an
unmistakable case of lung-sickness, and I cannot help
believing that the vendor was aware that the beast was
ill when he sold it to me. It is disagreeable to suspect
people of dishonest practices — at least, so we should call
such a transaction in England ; but in the centre of
Africa they deem victimising one another deserving
approbation, and a fit subject for future chaff.

The poor little horse is also worse, its head more
swollen, while the perspiration drops from its flanks.
It will not leave the wagon, and when I make my
appearance follows me persistently about, even attempt-
ing to rest its head on my shoulder. It has a dreadful

DEATH OF THE BASUTO PONY. 271

cough, coming from its very vitals, and so severe that
you would almost expect it to wrench the victim in two.
That cough once heard will never be forgotten, and
when it hreaks the stillness of the night must fill the
hunter's heart with anguish. Poor pony, I could do
nothing for him ; he lay down and got up, stood over
the cooking-fire, haunted Umganey and myself. At
last darkness came ; I retired to the privacy of my
sanctuary, but that fearful, incessant cough kept me
awake, sleep was impossible ; about midnight a more
severe attack of it took place, accompanied by griping.
The struggles caused me to come out of the wagon.
Umganey was before me ; silently, I joined his side, while
he stood and looked on. I spoke a few kind words to
the sufferer, and even in its intense agony it raised its
head as if expressing thanks for the sympathy. But a
more severe spasm than the previous one came ; the
victim tried to regain its legs, spun round in the effort,
and fell — a few kicks, a perceptible shiver, a quantity of
spume rushed from the nostrils, and all was over.
Umganey said nothing, but seemed to think much ; I
heaved a sigh, the depth and earnestness of which are
seldom rivalled by those who deplore the loss of their
friends.

Next day we made a very long treck ; when we left
our encampment almost every tree had a vulture in
it, and every bush contained a jackal or hyaena. I
should like to have stolen back and witnessed the on-
slaught, had not poor pony's carcase played so prominent
a part in it. At night we reached the last bend of the Lim-
popo, for whereas it has been flowing north previously,
from this part it turns abruptly, and flows almost directly
east. The scenery here is remarkably pretty, rolling

272 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

land covered with timber ; but farther down the stream's
course it must be more beautiful still, for its progress
seems to be interrupted by high hills. But there the
wayfarer, accompanied by horses and bullocks, cannot
enter, for the tsetse-fly has its home among them.

While walking in front of my wagon, for I am now
by compulsion a pedestrian, I observed great numbers
of secretary birds in search of their prey — snakes.
As nobody ever shoots or molests them, they are
very tame, and evince no fear of man even when
within twenty or even fewer yards. They are of a
slate colour, and about the size of the Kaffir crane, with
a formidable eagle-shaped beak, and a very large, harsh-
expressioned black eye. They do not walk or hop, but
march along with strides so long and regular that it
suggests to the beholder that they are assuming a means
of progression — playing a part — to attract attention.
That snakes are abundant in the locality is obvious, or
they would not be here.

I had the fortune to witness a combat between one
of them and its prey ; as I was within a short distance I
was able to see the fight from beginning to end. The
bird rushed forward to seize its victim, but the latter
being on the alert, this was not accomplished. The
attacking party then strutted round, holding out the
termination of its wing to be struck at by the snake.
This occurred many times till the assailed made a false
blow, and in a moment the bird had it in its powerful
beak, and flew up with it aloft, quite two hundred
yards, then dropped the reptile, descending after it with
the velocity of a hawk. Again and again this was
repeated, till, I suppose, the snake being dead, it was
carried off to a quiet retreat to be made a meal of.

A PREY-PROBLEM. 273

In the Colony and the Republican States there is a
law against their destruction, for doubtless they do a
great deal of good. Why they are called secretary-
birds I learned from an old French work. On the top
of the head each bird has a few stiff, upright detached
feathers ; these were supposed to resemble the quill or
quills stuck behind the ears of a clerk, hence the name
secretary. They are easily domesticated, and have been
introduced into Guadeloupe and other French West
Indian Islands to make war upon the formidable reptile
— the jir -de-lance .

A most peculiar insect here first came under my
notice ; it was nearly an inch and a half long, clothed
with almost black hair, and about the thickness of a
pipe -stem. The method it adopts to secure its prey is
very peculiar, and, in fact, rather astounding, for it
places its head and shoulders in the entrance to an ant-
hole, then commences a quick vibratory motion. The
ants peep out or come near to learn the cause of the
disturbance, when they are seized by the powerful
forceps with which the intruder's tail is armed; bat
the puzzle is, with its head and shoulders sunk in the
ground, how does it see its prey?

Our treck completed, and the camping-ground
reached, to my surprise I found at least a dozen Boer
wagons there before me. Both males and females came
forth and gave me a hearty welcome, the latter each
bearing a plate of rusk bread as an offering. This habit
I have not observed among the Boers before, and I
should imagine it had a Biblical origin ; whether or not,
it is a very pleasant way of making the stranger feel
that he is welcome. Just as night was closing in a
religious service was performed. An old grey-headed
s

274 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

man prayed and spoke a few words of advice to the
listeners; his delivery was very forcible and earnest.
I could but imperfectly understand him, still I felt
that what was being said was truth fit for all to
listen to, and practise. Twenty stalwart men, with
numerous women and children, kneeling upon the
ground, addressing their supplications to Heaven, in
the middle of the forest, the whole scene illuminated
by the fitful blaze of several fires, was as impressive a
picture as any one could gaze on. As I viewed it I
thought of the Covenanters in days of old, when the
peat-moss and the muir-side were the only places where
they could offer their adoration to their God without
fear of interruption and violence.

CHAPTEE XXIV.

AMONG THE DOPPERS.

Their Dress and Habits — Slavery — Opposed to the Missionaries — Their probable
Errand — Hated by the Blacks — Conservative — Bad Farmers in a splendid
Land — The Patriarch — A Morning Visit — Oar Conversation— Suspicions of
my Object in Travelling — Why not be a Dopper ? — Offer to provide a Frou
for me — The Bible — Primitive Notions about the Sun — Cornered — A High
priced Horse — Crocodile-Shooting — An Elephant Hunt — My Noble Steed —
The poor Brute's Wounds and Sores— Wakes up at the Sound of War — The
Chase begun — We come upon the Enemy — Charge — I bring down one Cow
— Aud help a Hunter to bring down another Cow — Cruelty of killing Cow-
Elephants — Baked Elephant's Foot — I leave the Doppers — Can Man quit
the Civilised World ? — A Fit of the Blues — On the March again.

THE Boers I am surrounded by all belong to a religious
sect called "Doppers." Their dress is a short single-
breasted coat, trousers very loose, and peculiar-shaped,
broad-brimmed hats. They consider themselves to be
the chosen people of God, and are still in search of the
promised land, which they profess to believe exists
farther north in the interior of Africa. The heathen,
they say, have been given them as a heritage, so they
are slave -owners. They are brave and fearless, con-
stantly carrying on war against one or other of the
native tribes ; and when actually engaged in hostilities,
spare neither sex, but carry off the young children to
be reared as bondsmen. They are hard masters, not
sparing the lash, and exacting for the food their folks
get constant and severe manual labour.

No kind look or even word here cheers the slave's
s2

276 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

task, for no bond of sympathy exists between the
Dopper and the black man. His horse he takes plea-
sure in, his cattle he is proud of, but a heathen merits
not a thought. The missionaries they are particularly
opposed to, because of their calling, and have on more
than one occasion sacked their habitations, and appro-
priated or destroyed their property. As their sole
support is the produce of their flocks and game, they
have become expert hunters and fearless horsemen.

What their errand is here it would be difficult to say,
although they profess to be trecking to Ovampo Land,
north of Damara Land ; but this I believe a subterfuge
to obtain possession, through the right of occupation, of
the rich bottom-lands on the north and west side of the
Limpopo. The country where they are outspanned
belongs to Kama, King of the Bechuana ; in fact, his
dominions commenced from the moment we crossed the
Notawaney.

The black population of these parts love not the
Boers, but hate and dread the Doppers ; so it is not at
all unlikely there will be blood shed before they are
dispossessed, or have established themselves firmly in
their new locality.

There is no doubt that beautiful farms might be
made all along this river's margin, if irrigation were
introduced — farms that would rival any in the habitable
earth. But the Doppers are not the people to cul-
tivate them as they would require to be, for they are
opposed to all new inventions, mechanical contri-
vances, &c., that were not known or used by their
ancestors ; and to raise water artificially, build dams,
form canals — all necessary to irrigation — are what they
simply would not do.

VISIT TO THE PATRIARCHAL DOPPER. 277

The old man who delivered the address and offered
up prayer last night is a fine specimen of the genus homo.
Over six feet in height, well-formed, and straight as a
lath, with a great profusion of white beard and hair,
he speaks sufficient English to be intelligible, and is
remarkable among his comrades for cleanliness.

I went over in the morning to pay him a visit. He
was seated on a chair, shaving down strips of giraffe
hide for wagon-whips ; underneath his foot was a yoke-
key, on which he constantly stropped his knife. At his
task he was evidently an expert, for the keen knife in
his hands shaved off the edges with the precision of a
plane. His granddaughter, a bonnie blooming lass of
fifteen, brought me a chair and set it down close to the
old man's, who expressed himself particularly pleased at
my visit. Again the young lady returned, and pre-
sented both of us with a pipe, already carefully filled
with tobacco ; on the top of the bowl of each was a
glowing coal. Several large trees grew near, affording
a grateful shade, for the sun was commencing to get
warm. Surmising that I was in for a long pow-wow,
I resolved to make a virtue of necessity, and submit.
The surroundings were very pretty — numerous bril-
liantly-painted wagons — for such the Boer loves — with
snow-white tents, several horses picketed close by, cattle,
goats, and sheep a little way off ; while quite a number
of large yellow dogs walked restlessly about to avoid
the persecuting flies. A tame wildebeest and young
quagga were so much at home that they became a bore,
and although driven by the children repeatedly off,
returned in a few minutes to nibble the edge of your
cap, or besmear your shoulder with the saliva that hung
from their lips.

278 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

The old man informed me that he knew of my
coming, and, like his predecessors, wished to know what
a soldier wanted in this country. I told him my object
was to hunt, become conversant with the people, and
see the land.

" Yes, to see the country, and bring back the red-
coated soldiers to take possession of it. You English-
men did this in the old Colony, in Natal, and now they
are coming here," he said.

" No, you are quite mistaken ; I have no such
object. The people of my country have not the slightest

idea that I am here. I am " and here I hesitated,

for what I was going to say struck me with a peculiar
force — " I am a wanderer."

" A wanderer," he rejoined. " That means one
without a home, without /row or kinderkins, without
friends?"

" Just so."

" And how is this ? You are not old, you are strong
and brave, and you have a wagon and cattle, and plenty
of guns and ammunition. Get a frow, before it 'is too
late to raise heirs to your name ; and if you do as I
tell you, as you are a man skilled in war, come with
us to Ovampo Land, where we will make a new home,
and wax rich in our old age."

In joke, I asked him where the wife was to be found.

His reply was given without hesitation. " My
granddaughter is old enough to marry. She is like
what my frow was at her age, both in appearance and
ways — and the Great Father knows she was a good
wife ;" and the old man heaved a sigh.

" Is your wife dead?"

" Gone to the promised land to await my coming."

INVITED TO BECOME A DOPPER. 279

Poor old fellow ! This was spoken so earnestly, so
full of feeling, that I felt the loss of his partner had
been a great and lasting sorrow.

And the pretty little girl, quite unconscious that she
had been offered in marriage, came in childlike simplicity
and placed a stool at her grandfather's feet, busied
herself replenishing his pipe, after accomplishing which
she performed the same office for myself.

"Will you go with us to the new home we are about
to make? You say you have no home, and we will
give you one. You have no people, you shall be of us.
You are also learned, you can read and write, and know
foreign lands : when I am called away you would be
the father of the folk."

" How can I answer now ? I must think the matter
over," I responded. And the pretty girl looked up in
my face with a pleading coaxing glance, so that I felt it
necessary to brace myself, pull myself together, for past
experience told me that I never could successfully face
a battery composed of woman's eyes.

Again the old man started the conversation. " You
read ' the book J (Bible), and believe it the same as
we do."

" Yes ; it is a wonderful book. And so, too, is the
world we live in ; only to think that it is not only
revolving on its axis " — here the old man seemed
puzzled, so, to simplify matters, I added — " but going
round the sun."

" Going round the sun ! " exclaimed the old gentle-
man. " No ; this world stands still, and the sun goes
round the earth. I would have thought your learning
and ' the book ' would have taught you different." I
had evidently fallen very much in his estimation.

280 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

" The book ! " I cried out ; " where does it teach
what you say? I read it often, have read it from my
childhood upwards, but I do not know where it tells us
what you say."

" Did not Joshua command the sun to stand still ?
If it had not being moving would this have been
necessary ? " said my venerable friend, while a well-
satisfied smile on his countenance showed that he
considered that I had nothing further to say. How-
ever, I must make an answer; it would not thus do
to be beaten, and a happy thought struck me at the
moment.

" True, it is quite correct what you say ; you are
well acquainted with the book. Joshua did command
the sun to stand still, but we are not told, which we
doubtlessly would have been, that he set it going
again."

The old gentleman pondered and wondered, but said
nothing. I interrupted his reverie by shaking his hand
and bidding him adieu.

Among the good qualities these primitive people
possess is honesty, for which they are noted far and
wide — doubtless one of their principal virtues. You may
even with safety take their word about the merits of a
horse or ox they have for sale. I fear, as a rule, so
much cannot be done in similar transactions with our
own countrymen.

I made an effort to buy a horse here : all were for
sale if a purchaser would give the price asked, but that
was enormous. One bay I picked out with plenty of
substance, and that of fair quality, nearly fifteen hands
high, and aged, I rode and liked very much, but a
hundred and thirty pounds were asked for him, with

CROCODILE SHOOTING. 281

evidently no intention of abatement in the price. Of
course, this animal would be guaranteed as saulted, and
with fair luck you might make his value ten times over
in ivory secured through his assistance ; but I hesitated
to run the risk. I had further a hope that something
cheaper might be procured at Bamanwatto.

In the afternoon I went down to the river ; there I
met two young Boers, who were shooting crocodiles,
the reptiles having incurred their enmity by having
lately carried off several goats and sheep. I remained
with them for some time, and saw some very good
shooting done ; one immense brute, quite sixteen feet
long, although swimming rapidly at the distance of
fifty yards, was hit fair in the eye. It turned on its
back a moment after as dead as dead could be.

I attended prayers in the evening, and after worship
was over, brought the old gentleman to sup with me ;
he enjoyed his food, his pipe, and last, though not least,
his soupje of MartelTs cognac.

" Bass, Bass, a Boer man wants you," energetically
called Umganey.

Day was but commencing to break, and I was
still asleep when thus disturbed. I hurriedly pulled
on my pantaloons and boots, and came forth. With
the assistance of the driver I was able to make out the
cause of the early visit. A drove of elephants had
passed during the night, and the Boers wished me to
accompany them in the hunt.

I thanked my visitor for his courtesy, but explained
that I had no horse. This had been anticipated,
however, and a mount was at my service. Hurriedly
swallowing my coffee, filling my pockets with rusk and
beltong, buckling on a sharp pair of spurs, and

232 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

shouldering one of my eight-bore double-barrels, I went
over to where the cavalcade were already mustering.

My horse was pointed out ; it was already saddled,
and in charge of a Kaffir, and truly was as wretched an
antediluvian animal — all scored and cut, in fact, there
did not appear to be a sound piece of hide on any
portion of its body — as ever has been seen or ever will
be. The thorns might have done much towards this dis-
figurement, the jambock more ; but there were several
parallel scars across the rump that strongly whispered
that master lion at some period or other had made a
strong effort to jump this horse. My hosts evidently
saw disappointment in my countenance, for they at once
commenced to enumerate its wonderful qualities ; and
while they enlarged on them I thought if it had new
fore legs, new hind ones, and a new barrel, it might not
be quite so bad. It was one of the " has beens," and
an admirable specimen of that race ; still it was a horse,
and without a horse I must defer at present having a
shot at the elephants. I got upon its back ; it fairly
cringed under my weight. I dismounted and removed
the saddle, and, oh, what a sore it had along the
vertebrae ! I thought I would decline going, but then
there were elephants to be shot, so I sent for one of my
own saddles and a numnah, tightened up the girths,
and remounted. Poor wretch ! it did not give beneath
me as much as before, but I will acknowledge it did yield
a little. One thing I did not like, in fact very much
disliked, was, that I should not be able to lead the hunt,
and show off before the young Boers, in fact, teach
them that an Englishman was quite their equal in
handling horse and gun. But, dear me, what evil star
shone on me, that I should be compelled to figure on

CHASING THE ELEPHANTS.

283

such a Kosinante ? I was almost making up my mind
to buy the bay horse for which a hundred and thirty
pounds had been asked, when further anguish on the
subject was stopped by our reaching the trail. A
couple of Kaffirs led the way so as to prevent the spoor
being lost ; but this was almost unnecessary, so distinct
was the path the mighty beasts had made through the
forest.

It was evident from this, and their not having
deviated to the right or left to feed, that they were
in a hurry, and probably travelling from one haunt to
another. Such a chase is generally a long one, not
unfrequently an unsuccessful one ; but Fortune chose to
smile favourably on us ; for, after about three hours'
ride, the Kaffirs declared the game in sight.

Not a word had been spoken for some time ; now
ensued a hurried consultation ; when the programme
decided upon was for all to approach as cautiously as
possible till the elephants took the alarm, when we
were to charge, each hunter selecting his prey.

For three hundred yards or more we silently stole
through the forest in single file ; at length the leading
horseman halted, and we wheeled into line. Over the
underbrush towered the backs of a number of dark
animals. Closer and closer to them we approached,
when one of the elephants uttered a shrill note, and in
an instant the herd was crashing through the timber,
raising a tremendous dust, and sending rotten limbs
of the brushwood flying far and wide.

The poor old horse, who had up to this moment been
a regular slug, took the bit in his teeth, and tore along
in pursuit as well as the best of them. He needed no
guiding — I only sat still and let him go. If the others

284 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

were after the elephants so was he ; and if his fore legs
only kept him up, there was very little doubt that soon
I would be afforded an occasion to use my gun.

A big tusker, of course, I wanted, but such I could
not see ; so, to rectify the deficiency, singled out the
largest animal in the herd, and made a dash to get
alongside of it. In this I was successful, for the old
nag knew his work like a book, and required no forcing.
Holding the gun at arm's length I fired. The heavy
charge nearly sprung it out of my hands ; but the
elephant staggered, recovered itself, staggered again,
and then came to a dead stop.

With the report of the gun the veteran charger had
sheered off to the left, expecting pursuit, and not getting
it he easily pulled up, so I turned him round again so
as to renew the contest.

The poor stricken beast was evidently very sick —
blood flowed from its mouth and trunk. It seemed
desirous of charging, but was without the power to do
it ; so I jumped off my horse, went within fifteen yards,
and fired at the space between the ear and eye.
With a crush the poor thing fell, struggled violently to
regain its feet, rolled over upon its side, and yielded up
life. It was a cow in the prime of life, but its tusks
did not exceed eight or nine pounds in weight.

I now became cognisant that a heavy fusilade was
going on to my left ; I, in consequence, rode in that
direction, when I overtook a Boer having quite a lively
time with a wounded one — she charged so persistently
and fiercely that he was as often the pursued as pursuer ;
so I left my horse, watched 'my chance, and, while
she was turning round to keep her front to her
first antagonist, put two bullets in her side, a foot or

OUR UNFORTUNATE VICTIMS. 285

so behind the shoulder-blade. Attempting to charge,
she fell upon her head, burying both tusks in the ground,
and died, game to the last with her front to the enemy.
The action was short, sharp, and decisive, I may say
brilliant, the only drawback being that both were
cows.

I admit that shooting cow-elephants requires some
apology — in my ardour I did not think of sex, and was
not aware that the animal I had killed was a female till
after its death ; in delivering the coup-de-chasse to the
last, it was so severely wounded before I came up that
it could not have survived. It certainly was an unlucky
entry into elephant-hunting in Africa to commence by
killing cows.

Now the chase was over the old horse was as great
a slug as before, and it required no ordinary amount of
care and attention to keep him on his limbs. How-
ever, he took me home in safety, and I parted with him
with only one regret, and that was that he was not at
least twenty years younger.

Next morning we had baked elephant's foot : it was
one mass of gelatine, excellently flavoured, and, I am
certain, very sustaining.

I had done so well in the hunt, in fact distinguished
myself, that I was regarded by all with eyes of great
approval ; the old warrior did not hesitate to tell me so,
and was so patronising that I commenced to fear that
he would again broach the matrimonial scheme. The
little maid brought me twice a day an ample supply
of clotted milk — an admirable dish when you get ac-
customed to it — and from her simplicity of manner it
was evident she knew nothing of the matter.

During the stay of these Boers in this locality they

286 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

have killed eleven elephants, fourteen lions, beside
giraffes, and innumerable antelopes.

Soon after noon on the third day I trecked from here,
amid a crowd assembled to see me off, and numerous
were the good wishes showered upon my head by these
primitive people, nor was it without regret I left
them ; for I commenced to think that a wanderer like
myself might do worse than pitch his tent among such
simple-hearted, kindly folks. But can one situated as I
am give up civilisation for ever ? It is doubtful ; more
than that — improbable. I have tried it. How often
have I left England firmly resolved never to return ?
Yet again, and again, and again I find myself back,
threading the old familiar streets, and gazing in wonder
at the changes the towns and cities have gone through.
I often think that the cause of this is I have travelled
too much, and that I seek for a country that never will
be found — namely, where all that is attractive of every
climate is combined in one.

Again, I am not so young as I was ; and where are
the youthful hearts and merry faces that stood by me
in the Crimea, that sailed with me over the Indian
Ocean, that marched by my side over the flat steppes of
China ? where are they ? Grone to the spirit land, and
I am left, a wanderer on the earth. Would that fate
had decreed otherwise ! But it is too late, too late ; and
on, on I must drift with the tide till it lands me —
where ? If we could foretell the future, I would go
and see the spot. " Fortune has frowned on us ! fate is
adverse to us! luck against us!" we cry out; but believe
me, reader, this is an error — we make our own destiny.

Partings, as a rule, are unpleasant, and my late one
seems to have given me a heavy attack of the blues ; as

AN UNPLEASANT PROSPECT. 287

I have not time to spare for such a fashionable com-
plaint, I will return to the velt near the tropic of
Capricorn, Africa.

For two miles from the river the track was hard,
and therefore conducive to quick travelling, after that
we got into heavy sand, sufficient to hreak a bullock's
heart ; but my cattle were strong and well-rested, and
toiled manfully through, so that we reached our out-
spanning-place before the sun went down. Lions were
again about the wagon all night, so that I got no sleep,
and in the morning I did not feel very fit for travelling ;
but go we must, for, till we reach Soshong, the capital
of Bamanwatto, there are fifty miles before us, without
a drop of water.

CHAPTEE XXV.

KAMA, KING OF THE BECHUANAS.

Sand, Sand, Sand ! — A Howling Waste — My poor Cattle suffer— A Wretched
Family of Bushmen— Novel Mode of obtaining Water — Fearful Condition
of the Bush-People — Their Skill and Courage in Hunting — Wild Dogs —
Magnificent Animals — How they Hunt — Attack the Lion sometimes — One of
my Cattle Missing — Insolence of my Driver — A Bandy-legged Eunner —
Fruitless Chase — My Driver returns — A Salt- Pan — Curious Effect by Moon-
light—The Kerne, or Wild Water-Melon—Scavenger Beetle— The Macalaca
kills Something at last — The Capital of Bamanwatto in the Distance — We
reach Soshong — The Inhabitants — Welcomed — My poor Cattle — Stuck in a
dry Eiver-bed — Soshong — The Kloof Community — Huts — Compassed — A
Favourite Post of Observation — The " Ladies" — Eiding — Oxen — Their Load
— The Missionaries' Houses — The European Community — Defence of the
Spring — The High-roads of Commerce — The Merchants — Suburb of Soshong
— Population — King Kama — Sketch of his Career — Bechuana Law of
Succession — A Eomance.

SAND, sand, sand, so deep that the felloes of the wheels
are entirely covered, the brush short and scant, the few
trees very dwarfed, and the surface of the soil rolling —
such are the characteristics of the country. No game,
no birds, naught cheers the scene — it is a land of
desolation, of waste, that nothing can ever be done to
improve, that will never render food for the wild animals,
let alone for man. It is a barrier to progression north-
wards that no art can remove, no skill overcome, no
ingenuity bridge. Such is the south-eastern end of the
Kalahari, the Great Thirst Land.

I grieve for my poor cattle ; fain would I let them
rest, but cannot, so the whip has to be kept employed,
or we should never traverse this inhospitable region.

A WEETCHED FAMILY PARTY. 289

To lighten the load as much as possible, I walk; to
learn the mysteries of bullock-driving, I assist the driver;
to kill ennui, to drown thought, to prevent regrets at
loss of companionship, I seek occupation. This howling
waste may possibly act as a barrier to prevent the
amalgamation of races, or a cordon to stop the belli-
gerent tribes of the south harassing with constant wars
the more effeminate natives of the tropics.

Just before outspanning at noon, we overtook a
most wretched family party of bushmen. When they
first perceived us, they appeared disposed to run away ;
but whether our manner was reassuring, or the number
of black attendants that accompanied me gave them
confidence, they stood by the road waiting our approach.
Father, mother, and two little bits of bairns, not pos-
sessing enough clothing among them to make one
respectable garment, and so thin and withered about
the limbs, were the components of this family party.
The man was armed with a small bow and a dozen tiny
arrows, the points of which were poisoned with the milky
juice of the Euphorbia arbor escens. This plant grows
abundantly about these parts, and is an exceedingly
deadly poison. The wife carried on her back three or
four ostrich eggs, doubtless filled with water, for their
orifices were closed with a bunch of grass, their stock
of liquid most probably having been obtained from
sucking-holes in the vicinity.

To those unacquainted with this method of obtaining
water, an explanation might be interesting. A hole is
made in sand showing evidence of moistness, into which
is pushed a tube with a quantity of grass attached to
its end. This forms a vacuum for the water to collect
in, when it is raised to the surface, and ultimately into
T

290 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

the mouth, of the sucker, after which it is most adroitly
squirted into an ostrich shell. Of course no European,
except in extremis, would drink fluid thus treated. Still,
I knew a noble colonel, who can frequently be seen in
" the Bow " during the season, who was only too glad
to obtain a supply of water thus procured.

The callosities upon these poor creatures' bodies were
fearful to look at : they doubtlessly are formed from
lying upon the hard ground, without any intermediate
substance to shield them from its irregularities. You
should have seen the comical expression of delight in
the two youngsters' faces when I handed each a large
stick of beltong !

A good-sized piece of wildebeest, and a gallon and
a half of cold mealy-meal porridge, gladdened the old
people, who at once commenced to light a fire and make
themselves comfortable.

It is really surprising how these people manage to
exist; that they are not devoured by wild animals seems
also extraordinary, for their home is in their haunts, yet
they take no precautions for their safety. If the truth
were known, doubtless a very great number die from
their attacks.

These Kalahari bush-people are the most persevering
and courageous hunters : once on the trail of game,
they never leave it till they kill ; and their skill in
stalking cannot be surpassed. Even the ostrich, the
wariest of all game, falls before their tiny poisoned
arrows. In fact, but for the Bushmen, the supply of
wild ostrich feathers would be very scant indeed.

I had just succeeded in making these wanderers
comfortable for the time being, when the big Macalaca
lad came to me. His musket was in his hand, and his

WILD DOGS. 291

face wore a grave expression. Pointing with his hand,
he uttered the magic word, " Taow!" the Bechuana for
lion.

Taking my double gun, I followed him ; but although
he endeavoured to point out something, for the life
of me I could not see it. Indicating by gestures that
he wished me to sit down, I did so, and he took a
place by my side. There was some scrub between
us where the lion was supposed to be, and if there
were an animal there it could not leave its retreat
without offering a shot. For a quarter of an hour we
kept guard, and our inactivity began to become irksome,
when first one, then a second specimen of wild dog
came forth, and coolly stared at us. Unless they had
been lying at length on the ground, it appeared im-
possible that they could have remained so long un-
seen. Did I shoot at them ? I hear asked. No, not
for the world. They were such grand animals, such
thorough-looking sportsmen, that I gazed at them in
silent admiration, wishing I were the possessor of both.
They must have stood nearly thirty inches at the
shoulder, looked like a cross between a greyhound and
mastiff, and were a beautiful rich fawn-colour. After
surveying me for a couple of minutes, they walked
coolly off, as if the presence of man were to them a
matter of the most perfect indifference.

A pack of these wild dogs, consisting of forty or
fifty members, is known to exist within a few miles of
this locality. They have frequently been seen hunting,
and the Boers whom I so lately left have suffered severely
from their depredations. It is reported that even the
lion occasionally is assailed by them and killed. When
these encounters take place, they generally originate

T2

292 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

through the dogs trying to drive the king of beasts off
some prey he has captured. From what I could learn,
they give tongue when hunting, and the pack run very
close together when in chase.

I yoked the cattle at half-past two, and at three I
discovered that one of the oxen was missing. The
animal in question had for some time been ill, and the
Boers pronounced its ailment lung-sickness. In con-
sequence, I had ordered the driver to pay particular
attention that it was kept in front of the wagon, as I
knew, if it were allowed to straggle behind, it would
probably be left to its fate and reported to me as dead.

On questioning the driver where the ox was, he
coolly told me, " Dead." Why had the circumstance
not been reported to me before, so that I might have
seen the carcase ? I asked quietly. " Didn't know, and
didn't care " — with a few choice Hottentot expressions,
was the answer I got.

For a time this fellow had been so insolent that I
had resolved on the first good occasion to give him a
severe pommeling, and see the effect it would have on
his future conduct ; so, without an instant's delay, I
rushed at him. He dropped his whip, and artfully
doubled under my arm. Having thus cleverly escaped
me, I started in pursuit ; but although the wretch was
bandy-legged, he could run like an antelope, so, breath-
less, and in anything but an amiable frame of mind, I
gave up the chase ; and there was nothing for it but for
me to take the whip and drive myself. This was the
more annoying as there was scarcely any perceptible
track, and the sand was fearfully heavy. The rascal
disappeared, going in the direction of our yesterday's
encampment ; this I supposed to be a ruse to frighten

CHANGE IN THE SCENERY. 293

me. But in it he was much mistaken, for all his valu-
ables were on the wagon, and I knew that he prized
them too highly to forfeit them thus.

That evening's was a most fatiguing journey, and
it was some time after dark before the cattle were un-
yoked. About half-past ten at night I had them put in
again, and lo ! and behold, the driver was there to
assist. I said not a word about our past difference, but
allowed him to go about his work as if nothing had
happened.

At half-past one we were abreast of a large salt-pan.
The moon at the time was shining beautifully bright, and
this immense plane, for it extended over several hundred
acres, looked like an enormous field covered with snow.
At first I could not believe my eyes, and actually walked
down into it to assure myself that I was not mistaken.
It is composed probably of the nitrate of lime, and
the crust is nearly half an inch thick.

Timber again becomes more abundant, and here I
first saw that wonderful and valuable plant, the kerne
(Cucumis kaffir), or wild water-melon. Farther westward
it is found in great quantities, even sufficiently so to
water the travellers' cattle with their juice.

Grass is also becoming more plentiful, but it is not
the grass upon the velt to the south. In fact, this much
resembles the bunch grass of the buffalo plains of North
America, for it grows in large tufts, with a wide space
of sand between each plant. We now outspanned till day-
break, but at the first indication of light in the east got
again under way. With the advance of day I could
note that the country was become really well-wooded
and very park-like.

Although I had seen the scavenger beetle the whole

294 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

way across the plains, they do not equal in size and
number those found here. They are a curious insect,
and most industriously prosecute their work, which is that
of collecting the dung of cattle, &c., and forming it into a
round mass about the size of a lawn tennis ball. When
this is accomplished they roll it off to a suitable place,
where they bury it, after having deposited their Iarva3
in its interior. The beetle when shoving its load over
the ground does so with its head down.

Soon after sunrise we passed through between two
ridges of hills, covered with vegetation on their southern
slopes, although they appeared an immense jumble of
loose stone, and destitute of soil, trees were to be seen
almost to their summit. Both these ridges, I should
imagine, rose to an elevation of fourteen or fifteen
hundred feet, and the formation is a reddish decayed
sandstone. Here the Macalaca shot a hartebeest, or
kama, the first thing I believe he has killed since the
bullock fell before his gun.

But although we have been progressing slowly we
are still moving on, and at length the gap is passed, an
immense plain opens before us, margined on one side by
the Bamanwatto hills, on the other by the Kalahari
Desert, or Great Thirst-Land, which does not terminate
till the doons are reached that are bathed by the South
Atlantic Ocean.

A large white house, the go-down or hong of the
principal traders in Soshong, marks the site of the town,
which still must be ten or twelve miles off. However,
there can be no halt now till we reach it, for the cattle
are suffering terribly from want of water, and none can
be obtained till we get there.

In time we wind round the base of a very picturesque

BY EFFORTS STRONG WE REACH SOSHONG. 295

rocky hill. Along its foot on the north side grow
considerable quantities of mealies and Kaffir corn. Soon
after we enter a track laid out between fences of
withered mimosa and other thorny plants. Gardens of
grain increase in number and width. At last one of the
inhabitants is seen, then another, till quite a number are
around us. They are all women, some nearly naked, all
very scantily clothed. They are well-formed, and although
not pretty, look good-natured ; and, above all, they are
polite, for not one fails to greet the soil-stained travellers
with their pretty expression of welcome, "Dumela."

The sand was very heavy, and the treck was the
most severe I had ever experienced. The poor cattle
groaned, but could not bellow. Their eyes looked sad
and plaintive, while the slow manner in which they
lifted their feet told but too truly of the unwonted fatigue
they had endured. I was not the freshest man in the
world myself, and I felt convinced that I was one of the
dirtiest, if the colour of my hands indicated what my
face was like.

At length two or three cottages become visible,
then a few Kaffir huts, afterwards more and more, till it
becomes apparent that we are approaching a town of
large population.

The end of this portion of the journey is not yet ac-
complished, a dry river-bed has to be crossed, and, alas !
in it we stick. For over half an hour we remain in this
annoying position; a final effort is made, a number of
Bechuanas put their shoulders to the wheels, and in a
few minutes we are once more progressing. The next
mile and a half is rapidly got over, for the cattle already
smell water, and I order the halt close adjoining Mr.
Cruikshank's store. The driver threw down his whip,

296 THE GREAT THIRST LAND. .

and gave a shout, Umganey did the same, so did the
followers, and I, no way loth, joined in. A most trying
part of my journey is completed.

Soshong, the capital of Bamanwatto, and the
residence of the King of the Bechuana people, is situated
on a flat covered with sand and stone, through the centre
of which passes a dry river-bed. In the memory of some
of the oldest inhabitants it was a constant stream ; but
as in many other parts of South Africa, more especially
in the country bordering the Kalahari, it has gradually
dried up. The hills which form the background of the
town are very rugged, barren, covered with loose stone,
and almost destitute of vegetation. Into this penetrates
a kloof, forming almost an equilateral triangle, the base
of which, drawing a line across the plain at its entrance,
must be over a mile wide. Over this space in regular
order are built the inhabitants' huts.

As at Moiloes, in Marico, the community is divided
into what we may call divisions, brigades, and regiments,
each ruled over by inferior chiefs, who are answerable
to the king for the conduct of their subordinates. The
huts are all built alike, and have an upright circular
wall of clay of the diameter of about- twelve feet, and
are roofed with reeds in the shape of an umbrella-top. To
each residence there is a little compound, enclosed by a
thick hedge of cut thorn bushes. Not unfrequently
also in the enclosure will be found a storehouse, a
miniature copy of the larger residence. In these
compounds the women do their domestic work, such as
grinding corn, &c. At the top of the kloof is the
spring that once supplied the dried-up river, and from
which all water consumed in the town is derived.

A sight that I frequently enjoyed was to take my

THE INHABITANTS OF 808HONG. 297

stand on the road at the upper end of the town, and
watch the women or cattle going or returning from water.
The ladies are very black and very scantily supplied with
clothing, yet there is among them as much vanity as
among their sex in civilised society. Beads are their
favourite ornaments ; and some of them carry this
passion to such an extent as to wear a kilt of them,
constructed very much after the pattern of a " dress
improver," and not unfrequently weighing upwards of
twenty pounds. Besides this ornament, nearly all wear
anklets and bracelets, and among the richer a caross of
narwhal-jackal, or some of the numerous wild cat
family, suspended from their shoulders.

The well is the great gossiping-place ; and as water
has to be fetched twice a day, no doubt much time is
lost in tearing reputations to pieces, concocting marriages,
and talking scandal.

But as there is a road through the hills that passes
close to the water, which leads out into the country
beyond, numbers of men can also be seen. Generally,
these are hunters returning from or going to distant
parts of the northern country, some are on foot, others
on the backs of bullocks.

These riding - oxen become very docile, and are
ridden without a saddle, a piece of stick thrust through
the cartilage of the nose, and to each end of which a
string is tied, performs the duty of bridle. Nothing
struck me as appearing so foreign and strange as men
mounted on such chargers. It looks like applying
the ox to a wrong use ; but this is a mistake, for they
can perform long journeys so mounted, as well as carry
a considerable additional load, and what they lack in
speed they make up in sure-footedness.

298 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

If you had an opportunity of examining the freight of
many of these saddled cattle, you would find it probably
far more valuable than you expected — fine ivory,
worth even here eight and sixpence a pound; and
blood ostrich-feathers, which the traders down on the
flat will be glad to obtain for half a sovereign
apiece.

Before reaching the spring, on high ground over-
looking the road, stand on the left Mr. Mackenzie's
house, and on the right Mr. Hepburn's, both mission-
aries, and employed by the London Missionary Society.
These buildings are plain and unostentatious, but
comfortable. Near the former stands a large white
building, which does duty for church and school-house.

But no vegetation ornaments the locality, water is too
scarce and precious to be spared for irrigation, and without
it vegetable life will not flourish. At the back of both
these gentlemen's houses the hills rise to the height of
eight or nine hundred feet, and their slope, which is
very steep, is covered with immense and apparently
loose boulders, that the least shake of earthquake would
send crashing into the valley beneath in one gigantic
avalanche. In fact, a few years ago, a rock of great
size fell from the summit, and now remains lodged
where the path once ran.

On the side of the village next the plain, the three
or four traders, who compose the European community,
have their cottages and stores, the principal of which is
rather a large building surrounded with a strong up-
right picket fence. In this yard water has been
obtained by sinking a well thirty feet ; but in case
Soshong should be attacked by an enemy, this,
doubtless, would be filled up, for the strength of the

MERCHANTS OF SOSHONG. 299

place consists in being able to keep an enemy from
obtaining water.

The Bechuanas are well aware of this, and as they
are now fairly armed, and far from destitute of courage,
it would take a very strong and very determined force
to obtain possession of the spring, for it is flanked on
both sides with ridges of high ground, so formed by
nature that a hundred skirmishers would be able to keep
a division at bay. From the town branch off the two
great highroads of commerce — the one passing round
the east end of the Bamanwatto Hills, goes to the
Matabele country, and the districts adjoining the
Zambesi; the other, following the west face of the
hills, leads to Lake N'gami, the Zouga and Linyanti
districts. But the whole trade of these immense
countries is in the hands of five or six people, who
frequently are absent two and even three years, and from
the date of their departure till their return no one
knows whether they still live or not. Their life is a
hazardous one ; unfriendly natives, savage beasts,
venomous reptiles, and malignant fevers have all to be
faced, so that if they do sometimes accomplish the task
of making a little money, they have well earned it.

About half a mile from Soshong proper is a similar
kloof, which contains about half the number of huts,
and may be considered a suburb, the total population of
the two being close upon 15,000 souls.

Kama, meaning hartebeest, is king here ; he is the
eldest son of Sekomi, who ruled this land when Dr.
Livingstone visited it. By Bechuana law the eldest son
does not succeed his father, thus Kama would not now
be monarch but for the effeteness of his brother and the
vacillating, weak policy of old Sekomi previous to his

300 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

death. Romances may occur in Europe — men there may
play for crowns and win or lose them, but they cannot
exceed the romance attached to the life of the present
Bechuana king. It would occupy too much space to
enter into all the particulars, but a short sketch of his
career may interest.

When quite a lad his father became jealous of his
popularity, and attempted to take his life, but being
providentially warned, he eluded those employed to
assassinate him. He then called his regiment together
(for all children born in a town in the same year as a
prince become members of the regiment which the royal
child at maturity commands. All these, privates and
chiefs, go through the ceremonies attached to circum-
cision at one time, and this is supposed to bind them
firmly together for good or bad) and asked them to follow
him, and they did so to a man. With his numerous
attendants he travelled away north-west, to the Lake
and Mababe districts, where they lived by the chase,
and by degrees amassed considerable wealth in ostrich-
feathers and ivory.

But old Sekomi, through his senility, had got his
country into war with the formidable Matabeles, who,
even now in their fights, fire their guns, and, throwing
them away, rush in upon their enemies with the assegai.
Everything seemed to go against the Bechuana cause ;
wherever they met the enemy they were vanquished, so
that at length Soshong was threatened, and the old
king was at his wit's end. At length, although very
distasteful to him, he thought of sending for Kama, and
he did so. Insulted, injured, and even his life sought
for, the brave young man at once responded, marched
day and night across the Kalahari Desert, the Great

HOW KAMA BECAME KING. 301

Thirst Land, and arrived at his father's home just in
time to save the capital.

An engagement was fought ; the Bechuanas, led by
their pet prince (I do not mean that he sat on a horse
on a hill and witnessed his men struggling through the
battle, but that he was actually at their head), attacked
the Matabeles, and utterly drove them over the face of
the country.

For a time he was reinstated, but it was only for a
time ; Kamani, the younger brother, had the ear of the
old king, and again Kama's destruction was plotted.
His followers learned this and told him of it, and a
second time he retired, leaving the reins of government
in the hands of his father and his junior brother,
Kamani.

Again the Bechuana country was threatened ; again
Kama came to its relief, and successfully did what he
had done before. At length the old king died, and
Kamani reigned in his stead. Still Soshong did not
prosper ; Kama was again called upon to save it, when
he deposed his brother and now is sovereign.

After he had been established as monarch, Kamani,
who had taken refuge with Sechelle, tried to revolu-
tionise the country, but failed, and took shelter in one of
the traders' houses. Here he was surrounded, and
doubtless would have been killed; but he escaped
through a window, when the first man he met was
Kama, who, dismounting from his horse, assisted his
brother on its back, and advised him to fly, for, although
king, he could not control the feelings of animosity of
his people against one who was at once unpopular, and
had constantly brought the country into disgrace.

CHAPTEE XXYI.

WITH THE MISSIONARIES AT SOSHONG.

A Standing Invitation — A Delightful Evening — A Life of True Religion — Mr.
Mackenzie — Mr. Hepburn — Invited to Outspan at Mr. Mackenzie's — My
Host's Little Girl — Introduced to King Kama — His Personal Appearance
and Manners — Permits me to Hunt — Sunday in Soshong — Worship — An
Impressive Day — The Life of a Missionary — How the Bechuanas meet with
Accident — An Amusing Experience on Mr. Hepburn's part — Inquiring for
Water, he finds a Lion and Lioness (asleep) — Hunters boxed up in a Kraal —
On the Look-out for the Imprisoning Lion — Putting an End to his Existence
— Sneers of Stay-at-home Sportsmen — A Vindication of Gordon Gumming —

Among the Traders at Soshong — Charlie , a Character — An Unknown

arrives — Personal Appearance of the Mysterious Individual — Charlie tells a
Story in his best Style — But is interrupted by a regular "B,pm-bom " — The
" Bom-bom "-Ejaculator's Nose is pulled— The Outrage stopped — Explana-
tion of the Strange Conduct — Charlie abstracts Roast Ducks — Found in
the "Bom-bom " — Charlie abruptly disappears.

MR. DAWSON, the representative of Mr. Cruikshanks,
to whom I had a letter of introduction, came out and
welcomed me. He had heard of my arrival in Marico,
but did not believe I could reach Soshong alone.
However, as I had succeeded, a standing invitation
was given me to take my meals with him whenever
so disposed.

I soon managed to buy some water from a number
of girls hovering about with large lotas on their heads,
containing five or six gallons ; for each I paid a
pannikin full of unground mealies.

Having had a good wash, and put on clean gar-
ments, I went up to deliver a letter of introduction to

FAITH AND WORKS. 303

the senior missionary, Mr. Mackenzie, and also, as he
was postmaster, to obtain my letters. My reception
was so kind and sincere that I commenced to think that
hospitality here exceeded that of all other parts of the
earth. However, after enjoying my noon-day meal
with my new friend, I returned to the wagon to look
after sundry matters that required attention.

In the evening Mr. Mackenzie, accompanied by Mr.
Hepburn, paid me a visit, and we had a long and most
delightful chat about our native lands. This pleasure
was very great to me, and doubtless it must have been
the same to them, for what a life of seclusion is theirs,
buried almost in a living tomb ! And all this is endured
by these honest, toiling, good men, to carry the gospel
to the heathen, and teach its admirable precepts. In
both of them I recognised persons carried away by no
schisms or creeds, but who exactly corresponded with
the couplet —

" For forms and creeds let fools and zealots fight,
He scarcely can be wrong whose heart is in the right."

And in my belief this fact, so vigorously expressed,
forms the essence of true religion. I parted with them
early, as they had to attend school that night ; but I
looked forward to often meeting them again before I
left the scene of their labour.

Mr. Mackenzie is a tall, square-built man, about five
feet eleven in height, fair in complexion, genial in
countenance, with great strength of character stamped
on his brow, and an unmistakable Highlander, speaking
the English language with wonderful purity and in-
tonation. Mr. Hepburn is taller but slighter, a
Northumberland man I should think, with great energy

304 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

and resolution, and gifted with more than ordinary
eloquence. The twain are a host in themselves; and
while our country is represented by men of their type
it is bound to be honoured, in whatever part of the
earth their labours are carried on.

I discharged my driver, put Umganey in charge, and
dined with Mr. Dawson. Several of the community, I
may say all of them, dropped in after dinner, so I was
introduced, and found them a most intelligent, gentle-
manly lot of people. It was late, or rather early, when
I walked across the open to my wagon; all had so
readily become familiar that I might have been in
England had not the simpering giggle of the jackal,
and the mournful protracted note of the hysena awoke
the stillness of the night.

Next day, according to promise, I paid both Mr.
Mackenzie and Mr. Hepburn a visit. My reception
was most cordial, and Soshong, with all its ugliness
of barren rocks and unattractive dwellings, became
established in my mind as quite a pleasant spot. The
former gentleman invited me to come up to his house
and there outspan, while my cattle would be taken
care of by his herd, and pasture along with his own
drove. This was too good an offer to be refused, as I
knew Ackerman would be leading all his too-willing
comrades into every mealy garden in the district. But
I had no driver I explained.

" Oh, that is nothing ; I will send mine ; " and his
was sent forthwith. In a couple of hours afterwards
the old familiar wagon was outspanned within twenty
yards of his hall door. It was arranged between us
that Mr. Mackenzie should introduce me to the young
King on the morrow, the very thing I most desired.

KING KAMA. 305

When I went to bed that night, having supped with my
new friend, and accepted his kind invitation to be his
guest during my stay, I slept the sleep that the invalid
craves for, and makes a person in health fit for aught
he may be called upon to perform on the coming day.

In the morning my host's charming little daughter,
a young lady of eleven years, brought me a cup of tea.
When I saw her bonnie bright face, fair hair, and blue
eyes, I could scarce believe myself in the heart of
Africa. At eight we breakfasted, and at nine went
down to the kotla to visit the young King.

We found him seated on a chair, with a dozen of his
head men around him, dispensing justice. As soon as
the case was settled that he was then hearing, he came
forward in the most affable manner, and shook hands
with both of us. He deserves a description, and, as
nothing can be said but in his favour, it gives me pleasure
to write it.

In height he stands about five feet eleven, is very
slim, of an excellent figure, and as upright as if he had
been drilled; his head he carries very erect, and his
features are small but regular, with a very pleasant
expression of countenance, and a very intelligent eye.
His hands and feet are remarkably small and well-
formed, the former like a lady's, on account of the
perfect nails and softness of the skin. In manner he
is thoroughly self-possessed, very quiet, and neither
obtrusive nor bashful. He dresses in European clothes
made out of moleskin, and is scrupulously neat and
tidy. He had heard of my intended visit, and gave me
a most cordial welcome. My having been in the army
was, he said, a bond of sympathy between us, for a brave
man deserves the respect even of his enemy,
u

306 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

Kama, although black, I found in every respect a
gentleman — in appearance excessively well-bred, and in
his language, as interpreted by Mr. Mackenzie, courteous
and considerate. From the date of our interview we
became better and better friends, for daily he paid me
a visit ; and if he obtained any information from me, I
know I derived much from him, especially on the natural
history of his extensive domains, of which he was a
perfect proficient, often causing me to smile at the ability
with which he could delineate peculiar characteristics of
various animals.

When the subject was broached about my obtaining
permission to hunt in his country, he quietly informed
me that he had made up his mind to give that privilege
to no traders or Boers, but that for a friend of Mr.
Mackenzie's, a soldier, and one who did not desire to
exterminate the game, he would stretch a point, and
therefore I should have Massara velt, his own hunting-
ground, and that he would send a chief of that people
with me to collect the bushmen on my route.

Sunday came round in course of time, and I could
have known the day from all others, by the air of rest
that lay over Soshong. All was as peaceful as the
village homes we knew in our youth on such occasions.
Missionary labour may be slow in telling in South
Africa, especially among the tribes so far to the north,
but when our religion is represented by such pains-
taking, enduring men as Mr. Mackenzie and Mr. Hep-
burn, it is bound to succeed in the end.

I shall never forget my Sunday afternoon at
Soshong. Mr. Mackenzie and Mr. Hepburn had held
service among the natives in the morning, but intended
having prayers and a short discourse at three o'clock in

A SOLEMN SUNDAY. 307

their own house, for those Europeans who chose to
come.

Not one of them did not come ; and in the little
parlour where worship was held, the presence of the
Almighty might almost have been felt. In my early
life I had regarded religion lightly, but when I looked
upon half a dozen stalwart men, accustomed to every
hardship and danger of life, our worthy pastor's children,
and a few servants, giving their whole soul to what
they were engaged in, I more forcibly felt than ever I
did before, that there was a great Grod above us — One
who merited our adoration and our love.

The prayer was earnest, and such as could have been
desired — the address was strictly applicable to the
occasion — there was no flowery language, there were no
marvellous similes ; it was exactly what was wanted,
and brought peace to the listener's heart.

That was the most solemn Sunday I ever passed.
No cant or hypocrisy was here — what I heard was an
exhortation from an earnest, true, reflecting man, endea-
vouring to make his fellow-creatures feel the depth and
height of religion, and the consolation that they could
derive from it, although so far in a heathen land. As
I have felt after visiting a graveyard or after visiting a
church, so I felt when I left that room — that we ought
not to live for our present life, but for that which is to
come. When the hymn at the termination of the dis-
course was sung — " Grod is my Shepherd ; I shall not
want " — I again must repeat I was overcome with the
conviction that I for one had been living for the present,
and utterly regardless of the future — that great future
in which all will be summoned to give account of their
stewardship.
TJ 2

308 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

My poor mother used to say, " The prayer of the
righteous availethmuch." Dear, good soul ! she believed
it, and offered many a prayer for her recusant son. In
youth I doubted it, in mature years I have pondered over
it, but I now believe that she was right, and I was wrong.

The life of a missionary here is a very hard one ;
their employment is incessant, and long after I retired
to my wagon to sleep, Mr. Mackenzie was still con-
suming the midnight oil. In the morning they require
to be up to look after their milk cows, presently school
commences, then breakfast, after which a number of sick
and wounded will be found assembled on the verandah,
some with the most hideous sores possible to imagine.
After each is duly treated, school again, and so on till
dark.

The Bechuanas are not an unhealthy people, but
they meet with accidents in the chase, and in taking care
of their cattle. At first I think they are prone to
neglect their wounds, thus accounting for some of the
ghastly sores they exhibit. My skill in medicine is not
great, still it afforded me much pleasure to assist the
worthy minister. That he is regarded, that both are,
with great love by the people, there is no doubt. The
number of sincere converts they have made I cannot of
course state, but they are unquestionably numerous ; and
Kama, the king, I have no hesitation in saying, is as
good a Christian, as upright and honourable a gentleman,
as can be found in any community.

A friend of mine remarked, after the king had left
us, " What a pity it is that he is not white ! " Better, in
my opinion, that he is as he is ; he can do far more good
as a black man than he ever would be able to accomplish
as a white.

LET SLEEPING DOGS (AND LIONS) LIE. 309

Mr. Mackenzie told me an amusing story in reference
to an incident that lately occurred to Mr. Hepburn. He
and Mr. Mackenzie were both trecking from Kururnan
together, where they had been to attend the meeting of
members of various religious associations. Their cattle
had been without water for a couple of days when they
reached the Notawaney, the bed of which, to their
grief, they found perfectly dry.

Water must, if possible, be obtained, so they separated,
the one going up the water- course, the other down, in
the hope of finding a pool. Mr. Hepburn unsuccessfully
had progressed about two miles when he spied some
bushmen's huts ; to them he directed his steps, in hope of
learning where the desired metsea (Bechuana for water)
could be obtained. On reaching these human habita-
tions, he could see no one, so stooping low down to enable
him to pass the diminutive doorway, he attempted to
enter the nearest building. When he had almost accom-
plished the performance, in fact, got half way in, what
was his surprise to observe, instead of human beings, a
mature male and female lion sound asleep ! Slowly
and silently he withdrew, and, as he was unarmed, made
a rapid retreat to the wagons.

It was an awkward position to be placed in, and one
fchat required an unlimited amount of presence of mind.
Another excellent story was told me here. The persons
principally interested were some English gentlemen,
among whom was a Mr. Grlynn, the son of some city
magnate, and, as will be seen, possessed of more money
than pluck.

While on the velt shooting antelope they met
another white hunter. As such meetings are very rare,
and, I may add, very enjoyable, an arrangement was

310 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

made that the party of our countrymen should pay the
hunters' camp a visit in the course of a day or two.
However, days elapsed, and they did not come, thus their
intended host got uneasy, and resolved to seek them
out, and learn what was the cause of their not keeping
their promise. On arrival at their camping-place he
found them outspanned in the centre of a most formidable
kraal they had erected, but no oxen or horses within
sight. On hailing his friends, and entering into conver-
sation with them, he learned that a day or two previously
the lions had driven all their cattle off, and that even
now an old mannikin was watching them, thus preventing
their going out, even in search of their beasts.

Says the hunter, " You would not let a confounded
lion keep you prisoned up, surely ? "

" But he's an enormous brute."

"He is, is he; and where can he be found?''
inquired the visitor.

" Oh, behind that bush ; there, that one about a
hundred yards off. You cannot see him now, but he's
there, and has been there since the cattle were driven off,"
was the answer.

The hunter simply exclaimed, " I'll soon make him
quit," and walked out of the kraal straight up to the
bush in question. Behind it was a fine old lion asleep, but
who got roused up by the intruder's approach, and before
the poor beast could do his yawning, stretching, and
taking the kinks out of his back, he was bowled over
with a two-ounce bullet through the head. The best
hunter in South Africa, in his time, was the narrator
of this deed.

It has become popular to doubt the performances of
Gordon Gumming. Lots of stick-in-the-mud, stay-at-

GORDON GUMMING VINDICATED. 311

home sportsmen turn up their noses, and pronounce with
the usual emphaticness characteristic of the breed, snoh,
" It's all an infernal lie." In this, as in many other
things, they show their ignorance, and because they have
not the courage to rival his performances, profess to
disbelieve that they ever were done.

So frequently has this come under my attention at
home, that I resolved to make particular inquiries at
Soshong (the northern limit of his hunting-ground), into
the truth of the most marvellous portions of his narra-
tive. In this there was no difficulty, for still many men
lived who hunted with him, and were eye-witnesses to
nearly all the great deeds of the mighty hunter, and
every incident that I could call to mind was emphatically
confirmed by them.

One grey -haired old warrior said that "no white man
ever come here like Gordon Gumming. When he heard
the lion at night, the same as in the day, he went into
the bush and shot him/' This, doubtless, was exag-
geration; but that he was a great hunter, and one ot
the bravest of the brave, there can be no question.

Life on the flat, or among the traders, I have not yet
spoken of. To leave Soshong without doing so would
be base ingratitude, for from one and all, from the
highest to the lowest, I received the greatest kindness
and hospitality. Moreover, to my surprise, I found them
all educated men and gentlemen. True, there was one
deserter, but many a gentleman has enlisted, and will,
doubtless, to the end of time, and, as well as those more
humbly born, sometimes desert.

Charlie , for I will not give his full name, was

a character. He was short, well-made, and a consum-
mate fop in reference to dress : nobody had shirts with

312 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

such wonderful patterns on the bosom and collar as
he had ; his wristbands came farther over his hands,
and more of his throat was exposed than any one else's
in the community. Without saying that he was a
boaster, he talked loud and emphatically — in fact, was
exceedingly pompous and self-satisfied. But a most
amusing change came over him, and the Charlie that
was ceased to be the Charlie of the future. Up to the
date of this alteration, not a soul knew that he was a
deserter, but imagined that he was a person of position
trading for amusement, to collect curiosities, or by both
means helping to defray a portion of his expenses.

One evening a stranger arrived at Soshong ; no
one knew whence he came or whither he was going.
He was on foot, and without baggage. But this mat-
tered not : the South African trader does not ask his
guests their means ; it is sufficient that they are white
men, and as white men they are treated. Thus, the
traveller was welcomed at the first house he called
at, and became for the time being a member of the
establishment. Soon he was introduced, and as it was
evident that he was a man of education, he received
invitations to visit the various members of the small
community.

Now at Soshong exists a custom, doubtless not at
all peculiar, of the residents assembling nightly at some
house or other to play at cards, loo being generally the
game. As the unknown was fond of cards, and apparently
possessed plenty of money, he was a welcome guest at
these little reunions.

Thus stood the state of affairs when Charlie made
his second appearance in the Capital of Bamanwatto.

The unknown it would be well to describe. He

"BOM-BOM." 313

stood about five feet four, but if he had been straightened
out would have been much taller ; in his neck was a
knot or twist of some kind that forced him to carry his
head very much on one side, while to raise his eyes so
as to look you straight in the face was evidently a great
effort. His skin was the colour of parchment, and
shrivelled as much as if that material had been soaked
in water and exposed to a tropical sun to dry. But
with all these deformities, he was well-read, intelligent,
and evidently possessed of considerable knowledge of
the world. If his head had been set on uprightly — and
it was a fine head, as heads go — he would not by
any means have been a bad specimen of the human
family.

The first night he and Charlie met, the stranger
appeared distrait, deep in thought, and looked as if he
were pondering over the past, and endeavouring to
recall some incident of it. The second evening that they
came together, Charlie was in unusuallly good spirits,
told his raciest stories with great gusto, and boasted of
his past exploits with much force. But whenever he
narrated anything wonderful, anything about the world
he knew, and the grand folk in it, the stranger would
twist his head upwards, fix his expressionless eyes upon
him, and exclaim emphatically, " Bom-bom!"

For a length of time this extraordinary conduct on
the part of the unknown was borne most patiently by
him who had become the life and soul of the party; but
when " bom-bom" became to be inevitably uttered every
time he spoke, Charlie thought it was time to terminate
such uncourteous, nay, rude conduct.

" What do you mean, sir, by interrupting me?"

" Bom-bom ! "

314 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

" I ask you, sir, what do you mean by such unbear-
able insolence?"

"Bom-bom!"

" If you don't cease that confounded ' bom-bom ' of
yours, I'll pull your nose ! "

" Bom-bom ! "

But scarcely had the last word been uttered, than
Charlie had the objectionable person by the nose, and
doubtless would have proceeded to further violence had
we not interfered.

To say the least, it was plain that the unknown was
the offender, so an explanation of his unaccountable con-
duct was demanded, and, nothing loth, was furnished.

"A year or two since I lived at King William's
Town, in the Colony. The regiment then stationed
there gave a supper and ball, and I was employed to
furnish the comestibles. Among other dishes were some
roast ducks : no person partook of them ; of this I am
certain, for I watched carefully how things progressed,
paying particular attention to the consumption of the
food.

" At length the ladies and officers rose and left the
table ; the ducks, untouched, were there at that moment.
The bandsmen, who had been uninterruptedly employed
during the early part of the evening, were now sent
into the room to get some ale. The moment they
retired I missed several of my ducks ; and as nobody
was there to purloin them but the bandsmen, I at once
went and complained to the commanding officer, and he
ordered his people to be searched. But who would
stick a roast duck in his pocket ? Besides their some-
what greasy condition, they are not a convenient shape
or size to secrete about a regimental coat. The band

"BOH-BOM" AND ROAST DUCKS. 315

were all searched, and of course to no purpose ; but the
leader, who knew more about these matters than I did,
laid hold of the ' bom -bom ' ' (here Charlie wished to
break loose and annihilate the speaker) " and turned it
upside down. Out of it came my ducks. And that
gentleman was the young man that played the ' bom-
bom/ "

Here Charlie made another effort to escape those
who held him; however, in this he was foiled. So,
as he could not vent his wrath in that manner, he bade
the company good-night, earnestly vociferating as he
departed that it was all " a confounded lie."

Next morning Charlie was discovered to have trecked
to the Kaminyani, where he was an especial favourite.

CHAPTER XXVII.

I LEAVE SOSHONG.

The Cattle at Soshong— Lake Bullock— Galloway-like Ox— Kaffir Ox— Mashoona
Ox — How many of the Cattle lose their Tails — Kama's Horses — Queer
Sheep — How they Fight — Five Strange Children — My Mare Ruby — Fowl —
My Goat becomes Food for a Hyaena — My Monkey returns to his Mates —
My Mashoona and Macalaca People leave me — A Word for the Macalacas —
My Departure from Soshong — Dilly-dallying of the Blacks — Kama's Cattle
Kraals — Mapaney Tree — Bad Luck — Stuck in a River-bed — One of my Dogs
Bolts — Birds charmed by a Snake — End of the Enchantment — Seruley Vley
— I fall in with a German — We dine together — His Bullock's Stampede —
The German loses a Saulted Horse — A Best — A Glimpse at a Leopard —
Greet and I part.

A FAVOURITE habit of mine, as I have said before, is
to take my place in front of the mission -house and
watch the traffic up and down the road. There are
other objects here deserving of observation besides
the natives.

First, then, I will mention the cattle. They are
a queer mixed lot ; no herd in Europe would be found
to contain such a variety ; they are of all colours, sizes,
and shapes. On account of its size we will take the
Lake bullock, an immense, ungainly, raw-boned creature;
its bones are so prominent that it never appears fat.
The head is coarse, and the dewlap very large ; but the
most remarkable point about it is the horns, which are
enormous, beyond all conception in length, and stand
out almost at right angles from the head. A pair I
procured measured from tip to tip no less than nine
feet two inches ; and I have been assured that larger

THE CATTLE IN SOSHONG. 317

are obtainable. For draft oxen, when the Great Thirst
Land is likely to be traversed, they far excel all other
breeds. They principally come from Lake N'gami and
the land of the Baeanana.

Another ox, generally black, large, and massive, in
its proportions, will also be observed. It looks much
like the hornless cattle of Gralloway, in Scotland, with
the exception that it is not without horns, but these
appear to hang down, and swing and shake about
perfectly loose with every movement of the animal.

The ordinary Kaffir ox is abundantly represented,
and is a type of animal very dissimilar from anything
we have at home ; its body is short and compact, while
its legs are long, its neck very short, and possesses
an embryo hump on its withers. These must not be
confused with the Zulus, which are remarkable for their
symmetry and well-bred appearance — at least, according
to our ideas.

But the most beautiful of all is the Mashoona ox.
In formation it is simply perfect ; the body is massive
and square, the head and horns symmetry itself, while
its feet and limbs are perfection. They are almost
invariably black, are excellent workers, with good
tempers. That no person has undertaken the task of
importing a few specimens of this race for the sake of
improving our home-breed surprises me very much. To
do so might be tedious, but not necessarily costly.

But last, though not least among this heterogeneous
crowd, comes the Fatherland representative; doubtless
in its veins is a large amount of European blood, but it
is frequently perverse in its nature, and stands the want
of water badly. It resembles an exaggerated Durham,
and my Ackerman is not a bad sample of the breed.

318 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

The observer cannot help noticing how many of
these cattle want their tails, some having been deprived
of them so high up that only a rudimentary stump is
left. There are two ways of accounting for this — hyaenas
and vaccination, the tail being the part chosen for
inoculating against lung-sickness.

But, by Jove, do you hear that clatter? It must
be a troop of cavalry coming up the kloof; no, it is
only their chargers. These are the horses of King
Kama, nearly a hundred in number, and all saulted.
To one only skilled in English horseflesh they look
rather a mixed lot, and so they are doubtlessly, still
there is not one among them that has cost less than sixty
pounds, many one hundred and twenty.

Of one thing you may be certain, all — with the
exception of one or two antediluvians — can perform the
most extraordinary journeys, although they know no
other food than the grass of the velt. They are not fat
nor yet lean, but in that kind of hard, serviceable
condition a hunter gets towards the end of the season.

But having done with the horses, let us take a
glance at the goats and sheep. The former resemble
what may be seen every day at home, but the sheep —
well, unless you were informed of it, you might imagine
that they belonged to a genus only lately discovered.
They are generally white with black heads, very tall,
thin stilt -like legs, very large pendulous ears, no horns,
hair instead of wool, and their tail — about the size of a
small pillow, and not unlike it in shape — hangs down
nearly to the hocks, having a queer diminutive termina-
tion of periwinkle form. They are both obstinate and
pugnacious. I have watched two fight, which would
probably have ultimately killed each other if they had

MRS. MACKENZIE'S PROTEGES. 319

not been separated. The mutton they make when fat
is excellent, equal, indeed, to any we have at home.

But here comes an interesting party, although of a
different race ; they are five in number, and the oldest
is not over seven years of age ; they are black as black
can be, with woolly, flat-sided heads, the gauntest of
legs and arms, with very protruding stomachs. They
are children from the vicinity of Lake N 'garni, purloined
from their homes by the Boers, and rescued by Mr.
Mackenzie. They are well fed now and taken care of,
although it must cost good kind Mrs. Mackenzie no
end of time and labour to keep them in clothes.

They are as merry a lot of young urchins as can
well be found. See, there are four of them harnessed
to a log of wood in imitation of oxen, while the fifth
acts as driver, copying to a nicety their every action,
even the absurdly conceited airs these worthies assume.

But for their protector having saved them they
would never have known the joys of childhood. Yet
some people say missionaries do no good ; before I came
to the interior of South Africa I thought so too, but
my belief now is exactly the reverse.

Aided by Mr. Mackenzie, I have tried everywhere
to get a horse, and the only animal obtainable is one of
his own, a five-years-old mare, but unfortunately
unbroken. This nag is saulted, bred here, her sire
and dam being both saulted. But as a horse I must
have, for without one there would be no use going
farther up the country, I decided to buy her. As I
only hunt to keep the pot going one mount will suffice,
although I should much have liked to possess two. As
Euby, for so I named her on account of her many
excellent qualities, figures in all my future exploits, a

320 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

description of her must be given. She is fourteen
hands two inches high, well made, has sound flat legs,
powerful loins, and good barrel ; in fact, but for being
more massive, she is a good imitation of an English
racehorse. Her colour is a dark iron-grey.

T expected to have some trouble in breaking her, but
I found her as docile from the beginning as if she had
been worked all her life. Her paces, which at first were
somewhat rough, soon got made, and her mouth after
two or three rides became perfect. At first I resolved
to take her colt with me, but afterwards I changed my
mind, as every panther and hyaena in the country through
which I was about to pass would have deemed it a
point of honour to kill it. Of course I anticipate some
trouble in separating the mother and child, and it is
rather bad to do so, but there is no alternative.

The new driver I have obtained is called Fowl — I
suppose Boer for Paul — he has been at the Lake and
other distant parts, bears an indifferent character, but,
as he is the only one available, I am obliged, "when
necessity drives, needs must."

I wished to replace my pets ; for my late poor goat
got run over the night we trecked from the Limpopo.
It happened in this way : — A hyaena made a dash at her,
and she tried to rush under the wagon, and in doing so
a hind wheel went over her loins, and broke her back.
The monkey deserted when at the Boer encampment,
and was seen by Umganey hail-fellow-well-met with a
number of his species in a grove of trees on the river-
bank. He was recognised by the belt round his waist.
But at Soshong I was unable to make up these losses.
Although there were plenty of monkeys and baboons
frequently to be seen among the rocks behind Mr.

MY NATIVE ATTENDANTS GO HOME. 321

Mackenzie's house, goats could be purchased, and I
had not now spare people to drive an uneducated one
along with the wagon till it got accustomed to follow.

My Mashoona and Macalaca people remained three
or four days after my arrival here; hut, having thoroughly
rested, and hecome strong through the enjoyment of an
abundance of food, they had started for the north with
all their worldly goods upon their hacks.

I was very sorry to lose them, and, poor fellows ! they
were in great grief when they hade me good-bye ; for a
rumour had reached them that Lubengulo, king of the
Matabele, was putting all their countrymen to death
who had dared to visit the Diamond-fields without his
express permission. When such was the case, one would
imagine that they would have remained where they
were, or retraced their steps ; and, although Mr. Mac-
kenzie and myself both pointed this out to them, so
great was their love of home and relatives, that they
preferred running the risk to remaining longer away.

The Macalaca lad, the one who shot the ox, I should
particularly have liked to keep with me ; but such was
not to be ; the last I saw of them was their going up
the kloof in single file. During the stay of these people
with me — and they were constantly about the wagon
— I never missed anything, although the Macalacas
have the reputation of being addicted to pilfering.

At length the day of departure arrived. The whole
community had done their utmost to induce me not to
proceed farther without a companion, particularly as I
did not speak the language of the people, but I would
not be persuaded. What others had done I could do ;
if not, it would not be for want of trying. So the
wheels were greased, new straps and yoke-keys put in
v

322 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

the place of old ones, and each ox furnished with a fresh
reim. The cattle looked well when they were brought
down ; once more they were mobbed, and soon after in
the yoke. " Fowl, why don't you start ? " I called out.
" The guide not come yet, Bass," he answered. And in
a moment after we were joined by a sturdy, tall Bechuana.
The whip cracked, the well-known shout was given, and
the wheels once more commenced to rumble on.

Many shakes of the hand, many kindly parting
words, and once more alone, I am riding behind my
wagon, and not with the lightest heart, for I have
bidden adieu to kind friends, been the means of sepa-
rating Euby from her child, and enter a terra incognita.

For five miles we have to take the track pursued
when coming into Bamanwatto, then it turns more to
the east, and the road follows the edge of the line
of hills. The scenery is very pretty ; for the range
is penetrated by numerous kloofs and glens, the sides of
which are covered with trees, the camile-dorn being the
most numerously represented.

The path, however, is very rough and stony, so much
so that no other vehicle except a Cape wagon could
possibly stand it. At seven miles from Soshong the road
commences to turn more northerly, and soon after due
north. As there is no water for thirty miles, we have .
to make as much way as we can before outspanning, to
enable the cattle to drink at noon on the morrow.

Being resolved to maintain from the commencement
the discipline and routine intended to be pursued during
the coming journey, I was kepb up all night trying to
lick matters into shape.

Black people will always defer doing a thing to the
last moment, and they evinced that such was now their

KAMA'S CATTLE ERAALS. 323

intention ; but I would listen to no argument or reason
to the contrary, and kept at them till all was put
right. It is no use locking the stable when the horse
is gone ; and, although the driver and guide assured me
no lions had been seen there for five years, that was no
reason why one might not turn up that very night.

At Bamanwatto, not over a year or two back, Mr.
Hepburn lent Kama's brother a milk cow. It was sent
with the other town cattle to pasture round the gardens
in the vicinity, a place constantly traversed by persons
going to and fro, as well as by women at work, and
where no one dreamt a lion would be secreted ; but
there the marauder was, and the reverend gentleman
lost his cow. Like tigers in India, you never know
where they may be, past experience has taught me this,
so I trust I shall not be caught napping.

About noon next day we reached the watering-place ;
it was a large pool in the dry bed of a river. Not many
years back water also constantly flowed here, but, as at
Soshong, it is rapidly disappearing. If this dying away
of streams goes on long, what will become of the country
ultimately ?

Here are Kama's chief cattle kraals, and the immense
droves of oxen, sheep, and goats give one reason to
believe that his Majesty the king is far from a poor
man. The shepherds, who appeared to be very
numerous, were all young men, and with one or two
exceptions, perfectly naked. Their huts were only
a thatching of straw, with the sides open. Each was
armed with an assegai, which they not only use as a
weapon, but apply to all the purposes for which other
people would use knives. How they manage to run
about through the thorns and briars I cannot under-

324 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

stand, unless the hide of the black man is much thicker
than that of his white brother.

The mapaney-bush (Bauhinia) begins to become more
prevalent. I noticed the natives plucking the leaves
and licking them; this they do to remove a sweet
gummy substance that is deposited there by an insect.
The population have a queer superstition about the
mapaney-tree — namely, that if you take shelter under it
in a thunder-storm you are certain to get struck ; whereas
the meruley-tree is so much loved by the lightning, that
it will not hurt it or the person it shades.

The temperature of the water out of curiosity I
tested. It was 98° ; yet during the night the ther-
mometer stood at 67°, sufficiently cool to make the
blankets quite enjoyable.

We had a long and tedious treck next day ; in fact,
it commenced with bad luck, and when that happens,
you are likely to have a succession of it. First, we
stuck in a dry river with very steep sides, and lost
upwards of an hour before we got extricated; and in
doing so not less than six or seven yoke -keys were
smashed. Then a dog that I had bought at Soshong,
and looked as if he would become useful, was allowed
to escape, when it turned on its heels and started for its
old home. I attempted to catch it on horseback ; but
although I overtook the brute, it dodged and turned so
that I could not lay hold of it. It seemed exactly to
understand what to do to baffle me ; down it would lie
till I dismounted, but as soon as I reached the ground
it was off again ; thus, very much disgusted, I gave
up the pursuit, and wished the money I had paid for
it were again in my pocket.

Still we made progress, and the black basalt hills of

FOR THE BIRDS' SAKE I KILL THE SNAKE. 325

Bamanwatto were becoming gradually more and more
indistinct.

Soon after four, I was attracted by a great number
of birds hovering about a tree and uttering most
plaintive notes. Although I approached quite close to
them, they seemed to have no fear of my presence. At
length I discovered the cause of their alarm : a large
green tree-snake was stretched at length on a limb, its
head raised off the branch eight or nine inches, while
its eyes fairly glowed with excitement. Again and
again a bird would go up close to the reptile's head,
and hover in front of it ; or another would dash wildly
past it, almost brushing the enemy's nose with its
wings. This certainly was a case of charming, for the
birds seemed unable to go away; and it was only a
matter of time for one or other to get within the
striking distance of the enemy. So I gave the snake a
charge of shot, as the best means of preventing it from
carrying out its purpose. The fangs I inspected ; but
they did not appear to be poisonous. I should say it
was of the species Bucephalus viridis.

Half an hour before sunset we reached Seruley Yley
— a pretty camping-ground as ever was looked at. The
water covers about two acres, and on its bosom, on the
far side, float innumerable water-lilies, on which run about
several surgeon-birds, or jacana, their long toes giving
them such a width of support that they do so with the
greatest facility. At the north end of the vley, all the
extremities of the drooping limbs have attached to them
one of the strange but beautifully-constructed nests of
the weaver-bird, placed there to avoid their enemies, the
snakes. It was a party of this family that were flutter-
ing round the reptile lately killed.

326 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

On the eastern side of the vley is the camping or
outspanning ground ; beside it stands a very large tree
of the same species as the boomslang on the Limpopo.
Here, underneath its shade, I took my seat, awaiting
anxiously the arrival of what Umganey was preparing
for dinner, when several wild ducks swept past, as if
desirous of alighting. I consequently got my gun, and
waited for a shot. Soon the opportunity offered, and I
winged a bird, which, fluttering, fell among the tall
reeds. Certainly the light was failing, but I searched
so carefully that I thought I ought to find it. I called
some of the dogs to assist me, but they refused to come.
At length in disgust I gave the matter up.

"Bass, dinner,3' had just sounded in my ears, when
the distant crack of a whip was heard. "Another
wagon, Bass, soon here/7 continued Umganey ; and, true
enough, another wagon came up.

Its owner, a German, came and greeted me. His
name was Greet, and he was on his way to Biilwio, in
Matabele Land. There is little standing on ceremony
in this country, so he consented to become my guest.
Dinner, therefore, was deferred till his cattle and horses
were made snug for the night.

Soon the bullocks drank, and afterwards were being
mobbed previously to tying up, their owner and myself
assisting, when the whole lot stampeded, knocked me
down, and very nearly did the same to my companion.
As soon as I could pick myself up I ran for my gun, for
I knew that tired cattle would not act so unless there
was some wild animal in their vicinity; but I saw
nothing. After a great deal of trouble the scared
beasts were secured and tied to their yokes, and we
passed a quiet and agreeable night.

AN ALTOGETHER UGLY SPOT. 327

Next morning at daybreak we were both up and
ready to start, when my guide pointed out on the road
the spoor of an immense lion. The presence of this
beast was the cause doubtless why the dogs would not
help me to find the wild duck, and the reason of the
cattle stampeding.

We trecked together that day, and outspanned at
Palapsey, spent a most restless and uncomfortable night
in as ugly a situation as could be chosen, and the boys
behaved very badly. One of my new friend's guaranteed
saulted horses died a mile before we reached the halting-
place of undoubted horse-sickness. I gave him a cer-
tificate to that effect, so" that he might recover from the
vendor the price he had paid for it.

Two years ago the tsetse fly was so bad here that
the place was generally passed in the night. A Boer
trader who neglected to take this precaution lost all his
cattle in consequence.

The in other parts dry river has here two pools ;
game, consequently, is abundant in the neighbourhood,
and it has the worst character possible, for the audacity
of iheferte naturae that have selected it for their home.
Next day I hunted in the afternoon, and although I saw
plenty of different species of antelopes I did not kill
any.

We trecked all the succeeding night, with the ex-
ception of two or three hours, and reached Mahalapsi, a
large shallow vley, by noon on the succeeding day.

The pasture in this neighbourhood was excellent, so
we determined to give the oxen a rest ; and as there
were abundant indications of game in the vicinity, a
hunt was resolved on, to take place next morning. This
resulted in my killing a koodoo (/Wo, Bechuana) and a

328 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

diker-buck. I missed a giraffe, although, within two
hundred yards, but had to be satisfied with its loss, as
the ground was too broken and irregular to ride over.
Greet killed a stein-buck.

Next morning the guide came to me at earliest
dawn and commenced imitating some animal. I was
about to take my rifle, but he pointed to the smooth-
bore and shot cartridges, so arming myself with it, as
soon as day commenced to break we went down into a
grove of mimosa trees. Ghiinea-fowls and francolins
fairly swarmed in them. I shot as many of these birds
as we could consume, and in following them up got
some distance from the wagon. In retracing our steps
along the side of a rocky ridge, a splendid leopard showed
himself for several seconds, but before I replaced the
shot with ball cartridge it was gone.

As a long treck without water was before us, Greet
not expecting to find any till he reached Gouque, and I
not till I came to some pits more than three days
ahead, we started SOOB. after midnight, and with
short halts kept it up all the next day and night, and
on the following morning crossed the dry bed of the
Shasshi, from where my course went off to the right
and his to the left. Over our deoch an' durass we
drank that we should meet once more, our beverage
being London stout — a valuable drink here — produced
from his wagon.

Both, I believe, felt grieved at separating. The
scene of our parting was wild in the extreme, a pass
between a jumble of rocks composed of the brightest red
sandstone. He had the best of it, however, for before
him was a track, while I had to steer my way through a
wilderness where wagon had probably never gone before.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

SURROUNDED BY DISAFFECTED SERVANTS.

Treachery of my Attendants — I am a Fat Cow — Never lose your Temper to a
Kaffir — A Charming Spot — How an Irishman made a Fortune in the Kala-
hari— Difficulty of Hunting in the Lands of Kama and Sechelle — Beware of
Fraudulent Devices to take you to good Hunting-ground — Visited by Bush-
People — Improvidence in the Matter of Drinking- Water —When to Value
Water — Our aqua pura ! — An Improvised Filter — Plenty of Snakes — Local
Belief about Female Snakes.

As I saw the tent-cover of Greet's wagon disappear in
its route northwards my thoughts were not the most
enviable. Of course, when I left England I anticipated
the kind of life I was about to enter into, but did not
expect to do it alone ; and, worse than all, I felt con-
vinced that, excepting Umganey, I had bad and unre-
liable people about me.

Greet warned me of this, and used his utmost efforts
to induce me to go on to Matabele Land with him and
hunt there ; but I had sketched my campaign, and was
determined to stick to it, come good or bad. The fol-
lowing was a conversation heard by Mr. Greet between
my people : —

Driver : " We should be happy."

Guide : " We should."

Driver : " It is a fat cow."

Guide : " Yes, it is a fat cow."

Driver : "And has plenty of milk."

Guide : " Yes, it has plenty of milk."

330 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

Driver ; "And our king has given it us."

Guide : " Yes, he has given it us."

Driver : "It must b.e milked."

Guide : "It must be milked."

The reader will scarcely require to have it explained
to him that I was the fat cow.

They might designate me what they chose — fat cow
as well as anything else — but I was resolved they
would find me the most difficult of any of the bovine
family to reduce to submission that they had ever pre-
viously to deal with. I would abide my time ; be
patient but watchful; and, above all things, keep my
temper. Nothing so delights a Kaffir as to be able to
put a white man in a rage ; and another and quite as
potent a reason that you should not give way is, that
an angry excited man lays himself open to injury, where
if he had been cool he could have avoided it.

That night, by the camp-fire, I placed new cartridges
in my revolvers. The suspected characters were around
me at the time, and I could note how they exchanged
with each other looks of anything but approval.

Oar next treck took us round the base of two large
coppies covered with beautiful vegetation. Here I saw
the first palm, also the wild fig, both of which continued
to increase in numbers the farther we progressed.
Numerous dry river-beds marred our course, and gave us
much trouble in crossing their treacherous bottoms. In
the evening we entered a most lovely park -like country,
having more of the artificial than natural look about
it. Although we have not yet come to water ; vegeta-
tion seems to flourish without it, for the grass is green
and the foliage of the trees of a colour that denotes
perfect health. Here I selected the most charming

OSTRICHES A SOURCE OF RICHES. 331

natural site for a house ; if it had been at home, say on
the coast of Devonshire, it would have been worth a lot
of money.

The only game seen were ostriches (//^s^Bechuana),
diker and stein buck. The first-mentioned would not
allow me to come closer than about 500 yards, yet I fired
some shots at them. The short Martini-Henry is not
accurate enough for such long ranges.

I do not think any horse to be found in this part
of Africa, even with a feather-weight on its back, could
overtake an ostrich. If the ground were smooth and flat
as a racecourse at home, and you had for your mount a
good plater, doubtlessly you would succeed in such a
performance.

An Irishman once came into the Kalahari and made
a great deal of money by the following plan : — Having
bought up seven or eight of the best saulted horses he
could find, he procured an equal number of bush-boys
of five or six stone in weight, whom he taught to ride.
Thus equipped he started into the desert. An ostrich,
in spite of all you can do, will go up-wind, so taking
advantage of this he placed relays of horses about six
miles apart along the course the birds were certain to
take when pursued. To prevent the ostriches deviating
to the right or left when they winded the human
being hidden in its course, both rider and horse were
abundantly smeared with the secretion of some of the
wild animals the birds were familiar with. The first lad
made running as fast as he could, the second took it up
at the same break-neck pace, while the third seldom failed
to run into the game. Two or three birds a day were
thus frequently killed, and as the feathers of each cock
are worth from £40 to £50, the business was a remune-

332 THE GREAT THIE8T LAND.

rative one. Mr. Eiley tried to get velt from Kama on
which to hunt in this manner, but the sage king politely
but firmly declined. In fact, nowadays, unless persons
have a proper introduction to the King of the Bechuanas,
he will not permit any one to hunt in his country, or
even to pass through it to hunt in the lands beyond.

There is, therefore, only another route open to the
great elephant grounds, which passes through Sechelle's
lands. He is just as particular as Kama. Any person,
however, can go up the coast, and from there break
into splendid shooting, but, on account of the tsetse
fly, their horses, oxen, and dogs would all be dead or
useless in a month.

Men who have a slight experience of this land —
persons who probably have been in the employment ol
traders — come home and advertise to take parties to
the great shooting lands. They have but to find
persons willing to go with them, when the fraud will
be discovered.

Any one might shoot on the north banks of the
Limpopo, and on it find game of nearly all varieties —
on rare occasions possibly elephants ; but there their
journey northward would terminate, so that after the
expenditure of a considerable sum of money, the en-
durance of much fatigue and discomfort, they would
probably have to return without accomplishing their
purpose — the slaughter of an elephant.

Those whom Kama or Sechelle know and profess
friendship for they will do anything to serve, but cer-
tainly they do not like Tom, Dick, or Harry disturbing
the country, and making the game they do not kill wild.

No one can blame them for this. The Duke of , or

the Marquis of will not let any one who has a

WATER BECOMING SCARCE. 333

thousand pounds to throw away make incursions into
his grounds, and shoot or drive off the ornaments of his
preserves.

I feel it a duty to mention this, as it may prevent
many from woful disappointment, and a fruitless expen-
diture of much time and money.

As I have said, diker and stein-buck were plentiful
in this neighbourhood; where the little beauties get
water is a mystery. If not in the vicinity, they must
travel nearly thirty miles for it, and supposing they only
drink once in two days, their time, consequently, is pretty
well occupied going to and fro.

Some wretched, half-starved bush-people visited the
wagon that evening. At first they were very timid, but
soon gained confidence. They brought several ostrich-
eggs full of water to sell. My knowing it to be obtained
by the sucking process prevented my availing myself
of their offer. But my people were nothing loth to
use it, so I made the hearts of these poor wanderers
of the desert happy by giving them some beads and
wire.

Although Euby has had a considerable portion of
the water in my fachey, there are still remaining in it
a couple of gallons, whereas the guide's, driver's, and
foreloper's has long been empty. These people are so
improvident that they require looking after like children,
but as I am not an approver of carelessness, nor intend
being nurse-tender to them, they may suffer for their
want of forethought. Unfortunate Umganey has to be
inconvenienced by their conduct — so blaming them, not
him, I took compassion, and gave him more than one
good drink.

To learn to value water, a person has but to come here.

334 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

Oh, for a glass of that pure liquid that tumbles down
with merry laugh over our own hill- sides ! Champagne,
Imperial Tokay, Johannisberg, all the choice wines of
the world, would not in this region be at all to be com-
pared with it.

The stuff we have to drink would anywhere else be
deemed filth. It is full of animal life, decayed vegetable
matter and excrement, yet it is all that can be obtained.
Alum will not clear it, boiling makes it like pea-soup, and
gives it a strong flavour of the animalculse cooked in it,
while the charcoal filters I brought from London are
utterly useless, for the reason that they clog in no time,
and refuse afterwards to permit the passage of a single
drop of liquid.

The plan I adopted was to pour the water into a
woollen stocking, and let it drip into a dish placed
beneath ; it may have been a very inefficient filter, still
it was the best I could improvise.

Next day we arrived at noon at a splendid out-
spanning-place, as far as scenery was concerned. The
coppies were high, sometimes quite a thousand feet,
and invariably covered with trees. The giant baobab
here is to be found, the most wonderful of all vegetable
productions.

We inspanned at an early hour, and passed over an
immense plain, with trees in clumps scattered here and
there. Quagga, many descriptions of antelopes, with
ostriches, were numerous, but were left undisturbed,
as all were occupied with the hope of reaching water as
soon as possible. And, indeed, it was time we did so, for
the poor oxen were suffering fearfully, old Acker man
especially indicating that much more of such hardship
would be beyond his powers of endurance. This

CURIOUS BELIEF ABOUT SNAKES. 335

would be a sad disaster, as I do not think I have another
bullock that would treck as an after-ox.

During this part of the journey I saw more snakes
than had been observed anywhere else. They were all
of the same species — the ordinary puff-adder, bloated,
horrible -looking, dirty -coloured reptiles, running in
length from three to five feet. They are so much like
the sand in colour that it is difficult to avoid treading
on them, and their bite is said to be certain death. One
the driver killed with his whip -stick was almost five feet
long. It is certainly fortunate that nature has made
them so sluggish.

There is a curious belief among the people here in
reference to this reptile — the reader must accept it for
what it is worth — namely, that the female only produces
one brood, and in giving birth to them dies, as the
young, having attained a sufficient age to enter the
world, eat their way out to it through their parent's
body. The driver of one of the Diamond-fields' coaches,
a most intelligent coloured man, told me the same yarn.
I asked him if he believed it. " Yes/' he replied, " for
I have seen it." He further went on to state that he
heard a snake crying from the great pain it was enduring ;
he went to the spot, and found a female puff-adder being
delivered in the novel manner mentioned.

The story current in some parts of the country at
home, that adders, when they think their young in
danger, swallow them, is certainly as strange and as
worthy of belief as the other.

At last we reached the looked-for camping-ground.
Our guide gave a wild shrill yell, and as with the fol-
lowers of Eoderick Dhu, each rock, bush, or bunch of
reeds produced a Massara bushman.

CHAPTER XXIX.

ADVENTURE WITH A LEOPARD.

Washing, Mending, &c. — An Expected Row — Outspanned in a Nasty Place — The
Attendants crowd to my Fire — Ordered to Light their own Fires — Rebellious
Spirits — The Scoundrels leave me en masse — A Tedious Night — A Visit to
my Cattle— Splendid Sunrises — Massaras Tracking — In Presence of Game —
Zebra wounded — A Charge — Cruel Work — Out for a Run — A Leopard Hit
— Attacked by the Dogs — Macguire comes to Grief — The Beast bites the Dust
— Buffaloes and Leopards — Varieties of the African Leopard — Arguments in
Support of my Theory — Meruley Tree — A Black Mamba.

HERE we rested for several days. I went in for washing,
mending, laying out fresh ammunition, cleaning guns,
&c. &c. — for in two days' journey we would be in the
veritable game country, until when I determined to
rest.

To put all in good temper I bought several goats
for a cup of gunpowder each, and one was slaughtered
daily. This was not absolutely necessary, for there was
plenty of game about, but I had an unaccountable
longing for the meat of tame animals.

During this holiday a most obvious improvement in
the appearance of the oxen and mare took place — a good
indication that they still had some work in them.
When we renewed the journey, the first three trecks were
accomplished comfortably, the fourth not so, for I have
had a most disagreeable row with my attendants ; the
undoubted cause of the difficulty is to be attributed
to the guide, driver, and foreloper. The Massaras were
simply tools in their hands.

^[UTINY IN THE DESERT. 337

We had tracked all day without water, and although
the cattle scarcely got two hours out of the yoke, our
progress was not what it should have been. The reason
of this was that we lost two hours by sticking in a dry
river-bed. At length it commenced to get dark ; but as
the guide did not propose it, I said nothing about
halting ; thus we toiled on till the Bechuana, who was
leading us, thought proper to give the order to outspan.

I did not like the place, for it was in the middle of
an immense bed of reeds, and of all places we had passed
just the one to harbour lions. However, I resolved to
keep good fires, remain on watch all night, trust in
Providence, and keep my powder dry.

Soon Umganey had my fire going, and all the
people commenced to crowd round it, without indicating
the slightest intention of lighting one for themselves, or
the one in front of the leading cattle. I remonstrated
at this neglect ; but although I set the example of going
into the reeds and dragging in branch after branch, the
others showed not the slightest disposition to do as
they were ordered. The making and keeping up the
front fire is the duty of the foreloper, and as this
worthy was paid by me for his services, I got hold of
him, and insisted on his attending to his work. After
some loss of time, he lit a little trifling bit of a fire, and
came back to mine to talk scandal, smoke, and make him-
self generally comfortable, and obnoxiously conspicuous
to myself. Again I insisted on his keeping up his fire ;
at first he refused to do so, but I suppose thinking that
I was not to be played with, went and put a few more
sticks upon it. As soon as the foreloper had gone, I
resolved that the guide and driver should make their
fires, and go and sit by them with the crew of Massaras,
w

338 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

whom I did not choose to have at mine, as they smelt
so abominably strong. But all I could say or do would
not induce them to attend to my instructions. Fowl
spoke English sufficiently to thoroughly comprehend
what I required to be done. Moreover, Mr. Mackenzie
had explained to all the delinquents, before they left
Bamanwatto, that the three fires were to be lighted
nightly, no matter where we were, in fact, that it was a
duty never on any pretence whatever to be neglected.

Naturally I became angry at my driver's dis-
obedience, and let him know that when he got back to
Bamanwatto that I would bring him and the guide
before the king.

Still all was of no avail ; so there were only two fires
going, thus leaving the right side of the wagon entirely
unprotected. At length I thought I would force the
mutinous scoundrels away from mine, and thus compel
them to light one for themselves ; but, instead of doing
this, they arose en masse, led by the driver, guide, and
for eloper, and walked off into the velt. I knew I was
in a most disagreeable position, but powerless to do
anything ; so Umganey and I did the best we could all
night to keep the fires up, and to obtain wood we had
frequently to go a quarter of a mile into the open.
It was one of the most tedious nights I ever spent,
and seemed to be interminable. At length the day broke,
and I was truly thankful that when it did so I had not
to record a loss.

My attention has not been so much directed to the
bullocks as formerly ; for, as they are especially under
the driver's care, and I am commencing thoroughly to
dislike him, I keep away from his charges. But this
morning I had to assist in untying them. Dear old

A GLORIOUS SUNRISE. 339

Swartland and Buffle knew me as of old, but I think
Poonah did not, for he gave me a kick on the shin of the
left leg, that caused me great pain, and made me quite
lame. When hobbling about, wondering what I should
do with no one but Umganey to assist, the recusant
crew came back, laughing and joking as if nothing had
happened, and resumed their duties.

The sunrises in these regions are truly beautiful —
in no other part of the earth have I ever seen them so
worthy of unlimited admiration ; the rarefied atmosphere
of these table-lands is doubtless the cause. At break of
day I always rise, and thus never miss a chance of seeing
the great luminary take his first peep over the eastern
horizon, and this morning was one of the grandest,
most magnificent dawns that mortal ever witnessed.
A few flaky, fire-burnished clouds hovered over the
east after daylight commenced, slowly these ascended
towards the zenith, and were replaced by those of a dark
purple, the edges of which were margined by a thread of
gold, which reflected from their centre every shade — from
deepest orange to blood- colour. Such were the advance-
guard of great Sol ; but round his majesty came forth a
different escort — gay as the dresses of a Watteau picture
or court pageant when king and queen hold high revel.
Indeed, they were gayer ; for man hath not yet conceived,
nor in his experience yet learned to produce, such lights
and shades as waited like satellites upon the wondrous
luminary, as he ascended farther and farther into the sky
— a sky you could gaze into, as one could into eternity —
without bounds, without limits, without end.

Game was heard round the encampment all night,
so that my attendants concluded that we were about to
have a great day's sport,
w 2

340 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

After having my coffee I started. Three Massaras
were my companions ; they were all small active fellows,
one being old, the others young. We crossed the open
velt, and entered a wood. Here we discovered plenty
of spoor, which was not fresh enough to encourage
pursuit. Pushing on again, we traversed another plain,
and again our path led into timber land. Soon we
found the trail of giraffe, a wondrous track, and more like
the tread of a man in a loose-fitting slipper, which
had a coarse, deep seam up the middle. After follow-
ing this for an hour, we crossed the spoor of zebra ; for
this animal has taken the place of the quagga and
BurchelTs zebra, which occupies the plains farther to
the south. For a quarter of an hour the Massaras
displayed their skill and perseverance as trackers. Not
at a walk did they follow the game, but at a run, so
swift that they kept Ruby at a good round trot, and so
unerring that not for a moment did they appear at fault.
This led us from one cover to another, from open land
to where the underbrush became so thick that fifty yards
could not be seen ahead. Here they stopped, picked
up a few twigs and broken leaves, cautioned me to
remain silent where I was, while they stole away in
the most mysterious manner.

Wonderful fellows are these bushmen — they rival
the snake in its subtlety, the eagle in its power of sight.
Where are they now ?, I might well ask ; for, as far as
evidence of human creatures being in my vicinity goes,
I might as well have been at the North Pole, or in the
centre of the sand-bound Sahara.

At length one, in a moment afterwards the others,
returned to me ; their appearance was as unexpected as
if they had been shot up from the bosom of the earth,

SHOOTING ZEBRA. 341

The elder took the bridle of my mare, and, followed by
the others, we made a short detour; at a signal I dis-
mounted, walked fifty yards, and before me, not seventy
paces off, were forty or more of the beautiful game
feeding. So conscious were they of their security, that
not a head was raised from the inviting leaves on which
they browsed.

I felt it was a shame to destroy the harmony of the
picture — to awake the still, placid scene by the report
of the deadly rifle. Sooner than fire, I could have gazed
on and on till all the animal life had passed away like
a dissolving scene. But my people must have food : to
give way to my feelings, and refuse to commit slaughter,
would cause them all to desert, and leave me without
the power of supplying the necessities of life.

I singled out a victim; she was a beautiful mare,
with hind-quarters so round and strong that she might
have been mistaken for a pampered brewer's horse. I
wished to save the unfortunate pain, so took most
careful aim ; but at the moment I pressed the trigger
she moved, and the ball lodged rather too far back.
Still, down she fell, and struggled for a long time
unsuccessfully to regain her legs.

In the meantime, all the herd trotted round and
round her, gazing with sympathy upon her prostrate
condition, and expressing wonder in their eyes at what
could be the cause of her disaster.

I might have shot now, not one, but half a dozen,
and my Massaras in a most unequivocal manner protested
against my apathy. Still I was not to be moved, on
the ground there was meat and enough ; so I would not
have taken the life of another, under any circumstances
that could be urged.

342 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

Approaching the struggling victim, its comrades
fled. I would here have delivered a final shot, hut my
attendants were hefore me, and buried their assegais in
its marvellously beautiful flanks ; but this attack seemed
to produce new vitality, for the zebra rose, rushed
headlong with open mouth at me — which charge I
avoided by springing behind a tree — and disappeared
into the forest. For two hours my attendants followed
her spoor; at length we overtook the victim, sick in
body, and powerless to go farther. A second shot
brought her down, a mass of inanimate matter. It was
cruel work from beginning to end, and, gentle reader,
believe me, I was unwillingly the assassin.

The vultures swooped down from their home in the
distant skies ; soon every tree was loaded with them,
and I felt I had done an evil deed when I had fired the
shot that was to provide these foul feeders with a meal.

By breakfast- time I was home, spent an idle day
about camp, and at three in the afternoon was ready
to get into the saddle. I did not wish to kill game,
but to see it. Crossing an adjoining watercourse, we
entered a broad velt : all the dogs were with me, and
evidently anxious for a run. Little Forty, an abbre-
viation for Portobello in Scotland, where she had been
born — a present from the sincere, earnest missionary of
Bamanwatto — barked and otherwise expressed her plea-
sure, within dangerous proximity of Ruby's fore-feet. The
stein-buck and the diker-buck broke from tl^eir retreats,
and scampered off on fleet limbs to sanctuaries where
they would be safe from further disturbance, and the
dogs heeded them not, for they were too swift of foot.

The plain that we were traversing now was very flat
and smooth, with but a sparse covering of the most

A LEOPARD AT BAY. 343

diminutive bushes on it : it looked as if nothing larger
than a meer-cat could have found shelter upon its surface
from the human eye ; but the latgefeKda know how to
secrete themselves, for nature has presented them with
a coat admirably suited for such a purpose.

With a slack rein I rode ; the dogs were clustered
around me, for the heat of the afternoon and want of
water had commenced to tell upon them, when up
sprang the largest leopard that I had ever seen, and at
an easy canter, grunting at every stride it took, made
for a few scattered trees.

The appearance of the game was so sudden, that it
was some moments before I left the saddle, and when I
got ready to shoot, the dogs were between me and the
object of my aim. At length I got a clear shot, and
fired ; the bullet ricocheted under the leopard's feet, but
in doing so hit some part of its body. However, giving
no more evidence of its mishap than a shorter and more
savage growl, as well as an acceleration of speed, it
pursued its course as heretofore. By this time the
dogs were crowding it, but none dare lay hold, for
such an act of temerity would have insured instant
death.

Soon the trees were reached; but instead of the
leopard taking shelter in them, it turned round on the
dogs, and the pack scattered like chaff before the wind.
I approached, and got off my horse, having taken my
double gun in place of the lately- discharged single-
barrelled rifle. To my surprise, none of the bushmen
would go closer. The dogs, owing to my presence,
became more and more bold and clamorous ; one cur
that I had picked up at Hartebeestfontein, near
Klerksdorp, particularly distinguished himself; but his

344 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

prowess cost him dear, for the now thoroughly enraged
cat made a dash forward, and with a sweep of her paw
gave Macguire such wounds that he could scarcely
crawl from the scene of the accident. If this continued
longer, I clearly saw that not one of my curs would he
left, so I advanced to get a clear shot, and so terminate
the matter. This was difficult, as the dogs always kept
between me and the game, hut I continued to approach
closer and closer. However, the panther had singled me
for its next victim ; with a couple of bounds it cleared
the yelping hounds, and in a moment would have been
on me, but that a snap shot stopped it in its charge ; as,
maimed and incapacitated for further injury, it bit and
clawed the dust, I gave it a second barrel at a short range,
and thus ended the fracas.

With the exception of the buffalo, this is the most
dangerous animal that can be encountered : its activity
is surprising, and its vitality unequalled. Moreover, it
exceeds all other animals by its audacity at night in
approaching an encampment, when dogs are its favourite
prey. Horses also are among its principal victims,
especially colts, and many are the inhabitants of
Soshong who have justly to complain of the serious
damage they have suffered at its hands.

Rocks and coppies are the favourite resort of the
leopard : never before or since have I found it on the
open velt. The animal just killed was as large as a
two-year-old lion cub, exceedingly high on its legs, and
very light in the body — more resembling my old friend,
the hunting-leopard, ' or cheetah, of India, than any of
the species I have previously met in Africa. Its body
was beautifully marked, each primrose having a clearly-
defined yellow centre.

MY THEORY ABOUT THE LEOPARD. 345

I am convinced that in Africa there are three
distinct species of leopard, the first thick and massive
about the body, like a well-fed domestic cat, yet low in
the shoulders, and light in the limb. The next stands
taller, has coarse hair, and is very imperfect in its
markings ; the head is narrower and more pointed,
while the limbs are stronger built and evidently more
calculated for speed than those in the first mentioned.
The last, an example of which I have just slain, stands
high on its legs, possesses a beautiful and regularly-
marked skin, and limbs that are really extraordinary
in their size and power, while the tail is shorter
than in what I claim to be other species. • Since
my return home I have spoken to Mr. Bartlett, the
well-known naturalist and superintendent of the Zoo-
logical Gardens concerning this subject, but he ap-
parently differed from me.

Of the dog family we have acknowledged different
species. Thus the wolf, the Eskimo dog, and what is
familiarly known as the Pomeranian, are very much
alike, different in size, it is true, yet no one would assert
they are the same species. Again, the pointer, the fox-
hound, and the beagle, how closely do they resemble
each other, yet are as widely different as possible ! No
one denies them the right of belonging to different
species, yet naturalists are prone to place all leopards in
one species, although marked in formation of body as
differently one from the other as any of the dogs.

On my return to camp I saw my first harris-buck,
but as day was waning, and we did not require meat, I
did not attempt a stalk.

To-morrow we treck into a famous buffalo country,
margining a river, tributary of the Chabagi, and if my

346 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

Massara speak true, with lions so fierce that they will
drive the intruder out of the velt. I am prepared to
risk this, and can only say that if they succeed they
must be a different kind from any I have met before.

A tree that I have noticed before, but paid little
attention to, now becomes abundant — it is the meruley.
Among the vegetable kingdom of this part of the earth
it is one of the most beautiful ; here it is to the land-
scape what the birch is to American scenery — the queen
of the forest.

Its height is seldom above sixty feet, but the stem
is straight, and covered with a smooth, clean bark, not
unlike our ash. The leaves are a very dark green, and
in shape remind one strongly of the walnut. As a rule,
it does not stand crowded in with other trees, but in
openings, where it has plenty of breathing-space ; it
produces a fruit about the size of a husked walnut,
covered with a thick fleshy skin, inside of which is a
very large stone, not unlike that of the peach. When
ripe the skin of the fruit becomes yellow, and soon after
falls. It is then delicious, but unfortunately it requires
a very great number to satisfy the palate, for, like all
these wild fruits, the stone is so large that there is but
a small portion of edible part. Possibly, by cultivation,
this might be altered. The flavour is that of an acidu-
lated drop — the desirable combination of sweet and sour.

Nearly all the wild beasts eat them, the elephant
particularly, who will get his forehead against the trunk
of the meruley, and then, bringing his enormous weight
and power into action, shake down a sufficient quantity
of the fruit to afford him, if not a meal, at least a very
pleasant dessert.

A black mamba — a description of snake common in

A BLACK MAMBA. 347

Natal, and reported to be very deadly — I killed to-day.
It was coiled up among a clump of mapaney bushes,
and had just made a meal of some young birds, in con-
sequence it was more sluggish than this active reptile
generally is.

The inhabitants of Natal affirm that the mamba will
chase you : this I doubt ; at the same time I believe that
if you happen to be between it and its retreat it will
not turn to either side to avoid you.

CHAPTEE XXX.

HUNTING AFTER BIG GAME.

Mashoona Eice — Elephants — A Holiday upset — Euby willing — Hints about
Treatment of Horses— Charge of Buffaloes — Fate of the Bush-people—
Danger of Buffaloes— A Tusker brought to Grief — A Pugnacious Elephant
— Seemingly he won't Die — Killed at Last — The Guide's Success — He
Shoots a Ehinoceros — Charged by the Brute — A Heavy Kick and Shot —
Bullock used as a Charger — Experiments to ride him — Another Shot at
Buffaloes — A Match for the Lion — Eunning Down an Eland — How it is Done
— Damoiselle Cranes — Massara Bushmen — Our Line of March — Man with
Three Wives— The Youngest Wife — Her Speed — Her Favourite Delicacy —
Her Visits — Bush-people's Appreciation of Snuff — An Excellent Vegetable —
The Probable Fate of the Massaras — My Levee of Sick Natives — How I
manage to prescribe for them.

I WAS sitting at breakfast, and a very good one it was,
for I had curried stein-buck and some admirable Ma-
shoona rice — the finest rice I have ever eaten — and as
we had plenty of meat in the camp, I had resolved to
take a holiday. Euby had eaten her mealies, and the
dogs had had their grub, and everything looked as if
there were no probability of the ordinary routine of life
being disturbed, when that fellow Umganey, whom I
like so much, came rushing up with the news that there
were elephants close by.

" Where and how did you find out this ? " I inquired.

" From a Massara — he see them this morning," was
the answer.

So there was nothing for it but to have Euby driven
up and saddled, and go in pursuit, thus giving up my
intended day of rest for one of more than ordinary toil.

SOUND OUT FOB AN ELEPHANT-HUNT. 349

I had determined to have a holiday, and thus give
the mare a holiday too, hut how ruthlessly was it
destroyed ! I can safely assert that I wished that the
elephants had heen at Jericho instead of feeding in
proximity to the camp.

But ivory was money, and money was wanted, ob-
taining possession of which is a disease that many besides
myself are frequently seized with ; so I laid aside my
pipe, pulled myself together, and assumed a look so like
business that if an observer had gazed upon me he
would have thought that to slay elephants was the sole
ambition of my life, and that to know they were within
access, the delight of my heart would be to jump into
the saddle and rush off instanter. Ay, ay, we are all
deceitful creatures. How many go to church because
they think it looks respectable ?

The little mare was willing; she came up to the
wagon at a high, jaunty trot, stuck her nose into my
buckets and pans to find where the mealies had been
deposited — for it was ever my habit to indulge her
when she was brought to me — and not finding what she
wanted, looked in my face so pleadingly that I felt
ashamed of my forgetfulness — in fact, as if I had told a
premeditated lie, and been detected in doing so.

But to remedy my forgetfulness was easy, so I put a
handful or two on the top of the fachey while I pro-
ceeded to tighten the girths. Never did the little pet
appear so fit to go ; she was as buoyant as a cork in
body and spirit, so when I threw my leg over her, I felt
that she was able to accomplish aught that was in the
power of horseflesh. Let me impart a secret — possibly
I may be laughed at for calling it so — never tease a horse
by tickling or otherwise, for although at first it may

350 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

resent it with apparent friendliness, in the end it will
with vice. If they come to you for grain at an hour
they are in the habit of receiving it, do not disappoint
them. Of course there are old stagers of garrons who
have been spoiled by their previous owners, and whom
all the coaxing in the world will not recall to virtuous
courses, but with a young one it is different ; treat it
kindly and consistently, and it will reciprocate in the
same manner.

The spoor was soon found, and we followed it up
briskly. There was no doubt the elephants were not far
ahead, and momentarily I expected to be in sight of them,
when five buffaloes, who seemed to drop from the heavens,
for they had not been seen before, charged right into
our party. Ruby sprung forward, jumped over an inter-
vening bush, and thus in a moment placed me in safety ;
but when I turned round to look at my bush-people, one
was finishing a somersault in the air, another hanging
by his hands from a limb, his feet not a foot above a
buffalo's head, who was madly but ineffectually charging
backwards and forwards at them. The poor fellow had
not strength to pull himself up, but simply to hold on,
and, of course, in time must have succumbed and dropped
in front of his foe, but I made a good shot off' the mare's
back, and placed a two-ounce bullet exactly in the proper
place behind the shoulder. Slowly, and uttering a
piteous complaint for being deprived of life, it sunk
down and died directly under the limbs of the climbing
savage.

Blow the buffaloes ! They are the most dangerous
beasts on the whole velt, for they are as cunning as a
pet fox, as stealthy as a cat, almost as swift as a horse,
and possess power to lift a house, or, at any rate, a shanty.

AMONG THE TUSKERS.. 351

Again, they never know when they are beaten — fre-
quently you may riddle them with bullets, and they
seem still to have a charge in them, and if a final shot
takes away that power, they will sink down and groan
out a remonstrance at the treatment they have received.

However, I soon got my scattered forces assembled,
for none had received very serious injury, and en avant
was the cry. In three miles we overtook the herd. One
of them was a splendid tusker, and through proper
management and care I succeeded in giving him the stern
shot. His travelling days I saw were then over. So I
singled out another, and tried to treat him in the same
cavalier manner, but he was the most pugnacious, wide-
awake brute I ever came across. First, when I was about
to pull the trigger, he turned almost completely round,
and charged so persistently, that if the little mare had
not known what she was about, and been on her guard,
we must have come to grief, for the long-reaching trot of
elephants takes them far more rapidly over the ground
than any one unacquainted with them would believe.
Again and again I went within thirty yards to lire, but
the brute would not give me a chance to pick out a
vital place, for the head was always towards me, and the
instant I halted to shoot was the signal for a charge.

The mare was as cool and self-possessed as ever she
was in her life. The moment I dropped the reins on her
withers she stood, and without guidance, as soon as
the shot was fired, avoided the irate animal's attack.

I thought this a good opportunity for trying the
head-shot I had practised in the East, although the
distance was long. Crack went my right barrel over
Euby's ears. The ball hit just above the junction of
the trunk with the forehead. Down came the game, but

352 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

only to his knees, and in an instant after was on his pins,
and as active and pugnacious as ever.

Eeloading my discharged barrel, I tried if the left
would be more successful, but not a bit of it. The
quarry got it almost in the centre of the forehead, the
result of which was not at all satisfactory, for it provoked
the most wicked charge that I had yet sustained.

Coming to the conclusion that I was fooling away
my time and ammunition, and putting the plucky beast
to unnecessary pain, I selected the knee, for I could not
prevent the animal facing me, and at the first fire
brought it down, finishing the business by placing a
second bullet between the root of the ear and the eye.

William, my Bechuana guide, also killed a very large
tusker ; in fact, the best that fell that day. By three I
was back in camp, and the people sent off to bring in
the ivory and meat.

A little before sunset the guide, against my wishes,
shot a rhinoceros. It was within sight of the wagon for
upwards of an hour, and I was having a most careful
survey of its manner through my field-glass, when he
discovered it, and in spite of all I could say, go he would.
We had such a quantity of meat already that it was
really committing a positive sin to take any more animal
life, so I was very nearly having a row with the fellow to
enforce my orders. However, I thought it was better
to avoid a disturbance with so valuable a servant. His
disobedience, nevertheless, very nearly cost him dear, for
at the first shot he only wounded the beast, which
charged at the smoke, winded him, and coursed him in
grand style over the velt. At length he managed to
dodge, and while the vicious beast was poking about the
bushes looking for its late foe, the guide put in a second

MR. FOWL ON AND OFF. 353

shot, but with no better success. Again he was hunted,
and in his excitement and fear made straight for the
encampment. At one moment I thought the brute had
him, but a quick turn saved his bacon. At this moment
all the dogs came up, and the rhinoceros's attention
became fully occupied with the noisy pack. To my
annoyance the infuriated beast a second time directed its
steps towards us, so to avoid it running amuck through
my property, which it doubtlessly would have done, I
took my four-bore, loaded with ten drams of powder,
availed myself of the shelter of some thick mapaney
brush and an ant-hill, and took aim.

I pressed the trigger, and, my goodness ! I received
a blow on the shoulder that completely floored me, the
gun at the same time springing out of my hand, and
tearing a couple of inches of skin off the inside of my
finger. As for the game, it never knew how it had been
converted into meat. After this exploit I kept that
gun for the use of friends and refractory servants who
were fond of sport, and it certainly afforded this in more
ways than one.

Next morning I bought a beautiful little bullock for
an old musket. The Bechuana and Massara constantly
use oxen for riding, so I thought I would convert him
into a charger. But with the caution characteristic of
my countrymen, I preferred seeing another on his back
to making the first attempt myself. It was Fowl's work
to handle the cattle, so I told him to mount ; he did so,
but the moment the bullock was let loose off it went
over the velt, bucking most furiously, and pitched Mr.
Driver a most beautiful somersault. I now ordered the
foreloper to get on. Nothing loth, he did so, and made
a good effort to keep his seat, but ultimately failed, and
x

354 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

became acquainted with the dust. Those who had
not mounted seemed to think that the unsuccessful
candidates for equitation honours were duffers, so
in rotation, even to that fat goose Umganey, they
got on the ox, and were as rapidly unseated. "When
unmounted the bullock was as quiet and gentle as
an old cow ; get on his back and he appeared to
go crazy. It was one of the most amusing episodes
I had witnessed for a long time; in fact, so much so
that I brought on a violent headache by giving way
to excessive laughter.

There are to-night at least seventy or eighty bush-
people around the fires ; where they all come from is a
marvel to me, for the country seems to be entirely
uninhabited, and nowhere will you find evidence of
man's presence.

The country about here is most beautiful, yet unlike
anything I have ever seen, for every mile or less out of
the flat velt rise coppies, some to the elevation of a
hundred feet, some to double that height, and all are
clothed with vegetation to the summit, although there
appears to be no soil to give it nourishment. On
the plains the trees are not numerous, standing about a
hundred yards apart, with immense baobabs at almost
every quarter of a mile. The underbrush is very scant,
what there is being mapaney.

While traversing this plain I commenced to think
what a dreadful place it would be to get lost in, for
not only did all the coppies look alike, but each tree
appeared a fac-simile of the other.

Spoor of game was very abundant, yet so far we had
seen none, when one of the Massara touched me gently
on the hand and pointed to the left. Beneath a

RUNNING DOWN GAME. 355

meruley tree stood several buffaloes. I got off the
mare, made a very cautious stalk to the back of a rock ;
from there I was within easy shooting distance. I
singled out a fine fat sleek cow, and broke her shoulder
with the first barrel ; the second shot, which was fired
at short range, terminated the matter. To my grief,
when inspecting the carcase, I found her udder full of
milk, so doubtless she had a calf hid somewhere in the
vicinity. Poor little beggar ! without its dam it would
be certain before long to be run down by the hyaenas.

It is a strange fact that all the game hide away
their young when they have not attained sufficient age
to follow, while the parent feeds round about, ever
keeping a watchful eye that no beast of prey comes near
the resting-place of her child.

Although many buffaloes are doubtlessly killed by
lions, yet my belief is that where a mature bull or cow
is the victim, it takes two or three to accomplish their
purpose. A single lion would probably be killed if he
attempted to take a calf in presence of its mother.

On my way home we found a flock of elands, the
largest of all the antelopes. As Euby was fresh and
anxious for a gallop, I resolved to try the experiment of
driving one to the wagon. This is easily done by those
experienced in this antelope's pursuit, and the same can
be accomplished with the giraffe. The method is to
force the running from the beginning, and then cause
the game to go beyond its power, and thus become
pumped, when you have only to ride quietly behind,
turning it to the left or right as required.

I picked out the fattest of the herd, and although
it had three hundred yards' start, was alongside the
quarry in little over half a mile. The poor eland tried
x2

356 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

its utmost to get some more speed out of itself, but
found it was no use, but in doing so broke from its trot
— the only pace it uses when pursued, unless much
exhausted — and commenced a floundering gallop ; very
little of this sufficed to thoroughly wear it out. Poor
thing ! it looked at me with such pleading eyes that I
was very nearly leaving it ; but at the wagon meat was
required, for the buffalo was so far off we could not
take more of its flesh than would make a light load
for my attendants.

If this eland had been accustomed to be driven all
its life, had it been a demure old milk cow, it could not
have behaved better. Thank goodness ! I was spared
the task of butcher, for the guide was only too glad to
relieve me of such a disagreeable job.

This evening, soon after sunset, I witnessed an
extraordinary scene. Hearing a great many birds
calling at some distance, I looked up into the heavens,
and as high as they could possibly be and remain
within sight, were thousands and thousands of large
birds circling round. They were too far off for me to
distinguish what they were at first, but after a few
minutes, as if with one accord, they all closed their
wings and swooped down to the earth with the most
remarkable velocity, and lit upon the velt within a
quarter of a mile of the wagon, their numbers being
so great that they covered several acres. They were
damoiselle cranes.

These Massara bushmen are not the least like the
bush-people of the south, for many are tall, handsome,
well-made men, with features quite the reverse of the
negro type, and do not speak with a click. In fact, many
of them possess very animated, intelligent, and agreeable

A BLACK BEAUTY. 357

features. They are capable of enduring much fatigue,
and possess great courage in the chase, all game, from
the largest to the smallest, falling before their spears or
arrows. Still they are not a warlike race, and very much
dread the Matabeles.

It is worth while to see the line of march, women,
children, and men all spread out, and on the qui vive
for anything that can be picked up, from a tortoise to a
meer-cat. There is one man who has three wives — the
youngest one is not more than fifteen, and only lately
married, and as an elder wife has two bairns, this young
thing has to carry one of them, and that the bigger.
I am quite certain from her look that she does not like
the occupation, and I should say small blame to her.

She has a beautiful figure and very pretty face, and
as she has only a piece of caross fastened to her loins,
there is no deception possible. But for her complexion,
a description of coffee-colour, I feel convinced that
if she were dressed a la mode she would be a belle.
You should see her run : a jackal jumps up, after it
rush the dogs, down goes the baby dump off her back
in an instant, no matter whether into thorns or not, and
like a sky-rocket she is in pursuit, to save the hide from
being torn by the dogs • yes, and the carcase too for that
matter, for jackal is deemed a great delicacy among them.

She is a mischievous young lady too. The large
caterpillars, immense things longer than you** middle
finger, and beautifully marked with purple and green
spots along the side, are deemed by the Massara great
delicacies ; they eat them au naturel or parched, the latter
being the favourite method. Having found a quantity
of them, she brought me some alive, and when she dis-
covered that I had even repugnance to taking them in

358 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

my hand, she commenced eating them one by one in
front of me. I shook my head, and showed by my gestures
that I disliked exceedingly to see the belle of the party
guilty of such unladylike conduct, so ever after when she
chanced to find any caterpillars she would come close to
me, hold the wriggling thing aloft between her finger
and thumb, and then place it in her mouth.

As a proof of her speed and power of endurance, I
will mention a fact that will rather astonish our home-
bred girls. I fired at, and mortally wounded, a giraffe,
still it had vitality to go over two miles at a very smart
pace. Of course I started in pursuit, Ruby doing about
a three-quarter gallop. At the moment this Massara
woman happened to be by my side, so she seized hold
of the mare's long tail, and assisted by that ran the
entire distance.

In the morning she frequently pays me a visit, and
out of courtesy I tell Umganey to give her either some
sugar, some snuff, or a piece of tobacco. The first she
eats at once, making wonderful pantomimic expressions
to indicate the pleasure she is enjoying, the two other
articles she takes to her old husband, and divides the
spoils evenly with him. Snuff is a thing all these people
are wonderfully fond of, men and women alike, and a
quarter of an ounce of it would be deemed ample
recompence for a day's labour. It is a pity they smell
so, and yet they do not appear dirty. I expect it must
arise from their living so much upon animal diet.

There is an excellent vegetable found on these velts ;
its name I do not know, but it is about the size of a
large Swede turnip ; the skin is leathery and soft, but
when broken a quantity of substance about the con-
sistency of mashed turnip is found inside. This, when

ABOUT THE MASSARAS. 359

cooked with oil, pepper, and salt, is very palatable. The
portion above the soil is like a very thin sprig of privet
bush, with less substance in the stem.

The stone of the meruley fruit is also carefully
cracked, and the kernel picked out. In flavour it much
resembles an old walnut, and the people esteem them a
great delicacy.

The Bechuanas, I remarked, appeared exceedingly
fond of their children. I do not think such is the case
with the Massara ; possibly they find them very much
in the way when leading such a roving life. Moreover,
the services of the young women in procuring food for
the family must be very valuable. From this fact I
suppose arises the practice of babes being handed over
to their grandmothers to be suckled. Such unfair treat-
ment of the child is rather to be deplored.

The probability that this race will become extinct is
great : fifty years ago they were twice as numerous as
they are now. The Matabeles, however, have much to
do with the diminution of their numbers, for although
they are not so prone to it now, at one period they
were in the habit of hunting them like wild beasts, and
showing them quite as little mercy.

On the whole the Massara seem to lead a happy enough
life, and an occasion like the present is evidently con-
sidered by them a grand holiday. I explained to Um-
ganey that I wished him to ask the guide what these
host of people were to be paid ; the reply was laconic,
" Give them plenty meat."

Every morning I had a levee of sick natives — the
men, that is, the invalids, who attended, generally had
fearful sores or a disease of the skin, in which it ap-
peared to peel off in large white flakes, but I usually

360 TEE GREAT THIRST LAND.

managed to effect a cure by the application of ointment.
Nor should I neglect to mention that ophthalmia was
common to both sexes. The latter I treated with a
solution of nitrate of silver, and always found it an
effectual remedy. But they were most troublesome
patients to advise. I would spend half an hour tying
up a man's leg, and in an hour after find him careering
over the velt, after a wounded quagga or eland, like a
mad creature.

As a matter of course, I have no right to prescribe,
for I am not a doctor, but I treated my patients as I
would myself under the circumstances, and always found
that I relieved those who had come to me to seek my
aid. 1 do not refuse to admit the skill of many of our
physicians, but if there is a profession in which there is
an enormous amount of humbug, it is in the medical.

A capital recipe Mr. Mackenzie gave me, to be used
especially when the water was bad, was to mix a small
quantity of Epsom salts with it. I followed the advice,
and found great benefit from it.

CHAPTEK XXXI.

LAID UP IN THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

A Strange Spot — A Picturesque Cainp — Namaqua Partridge — A Visit from the
Bush-people — Dog seized by Leopard — A Prickly Screen for Safety —
Massaras' Feeding-powers — Giving Ruby a Run — A Miss-shot — Koodoo —
Stealing upon Giraffes — One brought low — After a Cow and her Little One
— Ready for the Shot — Thrown — Gradually recover Consciousness — Used
up — The Bushmen Find me — Lost — Brought Back to Camp — The Guide
Hunts for me — His Success.

THE place we are encamped at is a strange spot. The
Bechuanas call it one thing, the Massaras another ; and
an extraordinary being, a big, powerful man, covered with
rags and pieces of skin, whose birthplace is a wonder to
all, and who has, uninvited, made our camp his own, de-
signates it by a third name, each of which seems more
difficult than the other to pronounce. Schoolpat in Boer
language means a tortoise — the name of our encamp-
ment resembles it in the Bechuana tongue ; but there
seem to be at least half a dozen syllables introduced.

Surrounded by woods without limit, the trees which
compose them being in height and size about that of
ten-year-old elms, ashes, and poplars at home, is a clear-
ing covering nigh twenty acres. From the margin
of the bush rises an unbroken rock of very hard, dark
sandstone, to an elevation of about thirty feet above
the neighbouring country. Its sides are not particu-
larly steep, not more so than a horse or ox can ascend
without difficulty; and in the centre of this mass of

362 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

stone is a pool, in parts very deep, and covering quite
half an acre.

It is about the last place that the traveller would
expect to find water, unless he were to watch the even-
ing flight of doves or Namaqua partridge (a sand-grouse),
both of which seem to have selected it as a favourite
watering-place, good proof that no other pools are to be
found in the vicinity.

Here I have erected a most picturesque camp, the
sail of greased canvas intended to cover the wagon
has been made into a giant tent, under which I pass my
day and stable my horse at night. Lion spoor is so
abundant about the neighbourhood, that such steps
become imperative. So with a ship's lantern hanging
over her head, and myself within sight, with a couple of
double guns, loaded on purpose for emergencies, I feel
that my pet is tolerably safe. In fact, as a concur-
rence in my belief, E-uby lay down at night, which
I had never known her do previously after daylight
had departed. The first evening here I went out at
sunset, and soon shot enough Namaqua partridge to
satisfy my whole establishment. They are a beautiful
bird, almost as large as an English partridge, but of a
much more varied and brilliant plumage, and feathered
about the legs and feet, as all the grouse family are.
On the wing they are amazingly rapid, their flight, from
the size and pointed shape of the wings, resembling more
that of a swift. However, as in wild-duck-shooting at
flight-time, so with them — get them against the clear
sky, aim well ahead, and after you have had a little
practice, you can make very good shooting.

Some bushmen, attracted by our fires, paid us a visit
during the evening. All assert that game is most abun-

ALAS! POOR MARIO. 363

dant, and that on the morrow they will show me ele-
phants, giraffes, buffalo, or aught else I desire. I have
had too much experience, or am getting too old, to be
kept awake at night by anticipating sport, so soon
went to sleep, and till day broke in the morning I
never opened my eyes.

During the night, however, an adventure occurred
at the bushmen's camp, about two hundred yards off.
When near Ladysmith, in Natal, I bought a dog,
resembling more a harrier than any other breed, for a
few shillings. It was a spiteful, bad-tempered, cowardly
brute, and always preferred the society of the servants
to my own. Consequently I did not love it — rather the
reverse, although I had never shown it any unkindness.
However, this was the kind of brute it was — if the fore-
loper was going to the south to herd his cattle, and I in
the reverse direction to shoot, Mario, so named because
of his grand voice, would give me the cold shoulder
and follow the former. "Well, he had preferred leaving
the wagon and taking shelter under the lee of
one of the heathen, doubtless having secured a con-
siderable quantity of the sleeping man's caross over
his back, when a hungry leopard spied him, hooked him
out with his paw, and carried him off, in spite of the
rescue attempted by the bushmen, armed with fire- sticks.

Being deprived of this dog, I did not mind, but the
bushmen assured me that the leopard having been suc-
cessful in his first effort, would not cease to come
nightly till he had carried off every one of my favourites.

To prevent such a result, soon after I rose I made
all my employes turn to and cut sufficient prickly
mimosa to erect a formidable screen on the three sides
of the wagon next the woods.

364 THE GEEAT THIRST LAND.

About nine o'clock, with three Massara bushmen, I
started to hunt for meat. My encampment had become
quite a place of rendezvous for all the people in the
district, each of whom expected food, and such quantities
of it, that they would have consumed an ox a day. To
give an idea of how much they can eat, I will mention
what has come under my observation, not once, but
many times. After eating incessantly an hour or two
— in which space of time they would have put out of
sight six or seven pounds of flesh — they would leave
the fire and go into the bush to become sick. That
performance over, they would return and gorge as if
nothing had happened. A zebra as big as a Galloway
fourteen hands high would not last them over a day.
So, with a crowd of this kind about me, I could not be
expected to spare the game.

The early part of the day was unsuccessful. Euby,
who was very fresh, I had to take down a peg or two,
an opportunity soon presenting itself. A brace of
striped hysenas jumped up in front, so I gave the larger
a burst, and in a mile finished him with my revolver.
About an hour afterwards, a splendid koodoo (todo9
Kaffir name) rushed past, at a distance of fifty or sixty
yards. In a moment I was off the mare, took sight,
and fired; but the bullet fell short, and the game
entering some dense underbrush immediately afterwards,
I did not get time to put in the second barrel.

This antelope is truly a splendid specimen of the
family to which he belongs, is exceedingly graceful and
active, frequently reaching the weight of five hundred
pounds. Bocky, irregular ground and the sides of
coppies are its favourite haunts, although it may occa-
sionally be seen in localities of quite a different nature.

BRINGING DOWN A GIRAFFE. 365

Its massive horns, with a corkscrew twist ascending
them from the butt to near the point, are formidable
weapons ; so that, when brought to bay, the sportsman
had better be careful. Their meat is exceedingly good,
and their hide makes a valuable leather.

Leaving the koodoo to take care of himself, which
it was quite evident he was capable of, we directed
our course to another range where mimosa grew in
abundance. This alteration of direction had not long
taken place, when one of the bushmen seized Euby's
head-stall, and pulled her, and me — for I was on her
back — behind a bush. Eeceiving a signal to alight, I
dismounted, and cautiously followed one of the guides,
when he pointed out eight giraffes feeding. Their
tremendous height, long necks, short bodies, high
withers and low rumps, it matters not how often I see
them, make me feel disposed to wonder at their struc-
ture, and almost laugh at the absurdity of their appear-
ance. But of one thing all may feel certain, that the
Great Constructor of the universe has most admirably
adapted them for the part they have to play in it.

I had my Martini-Henry in my hand, so, although
the distance was over two hundred yards, determined to
take a shot. The reason of my coming to this con-
clusion was, that the ground was so bare between us,
that I felt convinced any attempt at a stalk would prove
a failure. Accordingly, I took sight at the nearest
female (males are so musky, that it requires the stomach
of a black man to enjoy it as food), fired, and she
fell all of a heap. The companions did not seem to
understand the matter, but with uncertain gait com-
menced to move off. As the line they were pursuing
would take them within a hundred yards of me, I

366 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

jumped on Ruby's back, and shoved a fresh cartridge
into the breech of my rifle. This action warned the
quarry where the danger was, so off they went at their
extraordinary trot; but, however funny their gait ap-
pears, it has a marvellous capability of covering the
ground.

Dear little Euby ! I christened you so because I
thought you perfection, and thus being so like one I loved.
But why think of the past? Euby, in her keenness
to be alongside the game, if I do not look out, will pull
me over her head. It takes a good horse to catch a
giraffe, but even with my weight up, if the ground were
at all suitable, it never appeared any trouble for this
little mare to overhaul them.

I singled out a cow of giant proportions, one of the
largest I had ever seen; she was attended by a calf
about seven feet high. Now this old lady was very
crafty : soon she found out that speed could not save
her, although she put on a wonderful turn of it, and
made her tail describe a circle, of which the root was
the centre and the tassel the circumference; so she
altered her tactics, and made into some very dense bush,
the little one sticking to her heels like a leech. At
length I compelled her to leave this cover, when she
made a dash out over the open, evidently with the inten-
tion of gaining some thick wood at the end of a coppy.

No need of spurs : my little grey laid down at once
to her work ; every stride brought me closer and closer.
Steady, my lassie ; take the left side, if you please, and
my rifle was cocked to deliver my shot, when Euby put
both her feet in an ant-bear hole or some other ex-
cavation, and I went flying over her head, how far I
cannot say, into a clump of thorn-bushes.

QUITE DONE UP. 367

For a length of time, giraffes, horses, and rifles were
things I had no knowledge of. At length I became
sufficiently conscious to sit up; my dear little mare stood
over me, and looked with her large expressive eyes as if
she wondered what was the matter. I tried to pull
myself together, but for a time I could not ; I felt no
pain, yet I felt no power, though I was conscious that the
sun was setting. Not for my own, but for Buby's sake,
I made another effort ; the result was excruciating,
though partially successful. Then I thought of my rifle.
I searched for it, and found it with the barrel choked with
sand. I had sense enough to know that in such a
state it was not serviceable, and therefore cleared it.

Used up I undoubtedly was ; a haze was over my
eyes, and an amount of lassitude over my body, that I
felt indifferent to what might follow, yet my affection
for the little mare told me that I must light a fire, or
run the risk of losing her during the night from the
attack of some skulking marauder. Soon I found a
fallen tree : it had long been blown down. I gathered
the limbs, and piled them beside the trunk ; the smoke
gave way to fire, and the fire hungrily seized upon all
that was in its vicinity and suited to its taste.

I have said I cared not for myself, whether devoured
by wild animals or not was perfectly indifferent to me ;
I wanted to lie down and rest, possibly not to die, but
to be in absolute rest. I was about to give way to my
inclination when Euby neighed ; I looked up, and there
were my bushmen — they had followed the spoor to where
they found me. I understood not their language,
neither did they mine, still I became aware that they
wished me to go to the wagon by repeating the word
Moe (Bechuana for wagon), and I consented, perfectly

368 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

indifferent to what I did. To get into the saddle was
a work of labour, but with assistance I succeeded. One
of the Massaras led the way, the other two held me in
my seat by the thighs. It was a long, long tramp, and
much of the way was passed over in a semi-conscious
state. The night air had freshened me up, the motion
of riding had, I believe, assisted, for the stupor which
had previously overpowered me commenced to give way.
At least, I remember clearly the bushmen indicating
by signs that my rifle should be ready for use. We then
entered some dense reeds, among these we apparently
wandered for hours ; at length I became cognisant
that we were lost. If so, it did- not matter much, so
perfectly indifferent I felt to everything. However, the
bushmen again moved forward and gained an open space.
They had scarcely done so when two lions roared, ap-
parently from the place we had just left. Anxiety for the
mare — conscientiously I do not think it was for myself
— made me make a further effort to pull myself together ;
and while the Massara lay at length upon the earth, the
better to see anything approaching, I stood prepared to
use my weapon.

This state of watch continued fifteen or twenty
minutes, when I thought I heard the report of a gun.
In an instant my attendants were on their feet, and
pronounced the mystic word kiloe, and leading my horse
off to the left of the course we had formerly pursued,
brought me to my encampment in less than an hour.
On looking at my clock it was exactly half-past three.
For nearly a week others had to hunt to keep the
wagon supplied with meat. To Umganey's unremitting
attention I believe I owe my life.

It is impossible, and perhaps not desirable, to

GUIDE'S SUCCESS MORE THAN LESS. 369

enumerate the quantity of the game killed. With the
exception of killing elephants and ostriches for the sake
of their ivory and feathers, I endeavoured not to slay
anything that was not required ; however, in thus
limiting the slaughter I was not always successful, for
the guide, who was an excellent hunter and very fair
shot, had had the loan of one of my eight-bores, and
with it dealt out, I fear, terrible destruction. At night
he frequently came and tumbled into the wagon a tusk
or two, or shoved into the tent a bundle of feathers,
my share of his success in his hunt.

Thus hours drifted into days and days into weeks ;
from one place to another we shifted our encampment,
but still the pot, or rather the flesh was on the fire.
Elephants now commenced to get scarce, for these wily
animals having been so much hunted, betook themselves
to the hills adjoining to the eastward, where the tsetse
abounded, and pursuit on horseback was impossible.

From my wagon, soon after break of day, I have
seen numerous varieties of game within a quarter of a
mile, any man who could handle a gun fairly might
have gone forth and dealt destruction in the ranks of
each.

If I had had a companion, one to whom I could
talk, whether he were black or white, I should have been
satisfied ; but I was alone, veritably alone, and with
attendants about me who regarded me as a milk cow,
the cow to be sacrificed as soon as nature prevented
it from giving a supply of the lacteal fluid. In spite of
this I determined on leaving my wagon for a time to
have a hunt on foot into the fly country.

CHAPTEE XXXII.

ON THE RETURN JOURNEY.

Hunted by a Wounded Tusker — He Misses his Mark — Never will chase Man
more — Good-bye to the Massaras — Souvenirs — My Gift to the Beauty —
Treck, Treck, Treck !— Water-pits— Where has the Water gone ?— Digging
for the Precioua Liquid — Quenching Thirst — A Baobab Tree— Meruley
Fruit — Disaffection among my Servants — My Attendants have Fled! —
Reviving the Fires — Stung by a Scorpion — My Attendants' Festivities —
Disturbing the Merry-makers — Ordered to Return to my Camp — Foreloper
Refuses — Coppies — Black Rhinoceros — Shot Dead — Klep Springers — My
Saddle in Sad State — Little Grey Monkeys — Beautiful Koodoo.

INTO the fly country I went, game I found in the utmost
abundance, particularly buffalo. If I had desired it I
could have killed a dozen of them a day ; but tuskers
were what I wanted, and they were not scarce, but
difficult to circumvent.

However, we persevered, and ivory came in plentifully.
One incident which occurred in the weeks I spent away
from my wagon is I think deserving of notice. For two
days we followed on foot the spoor of several elephants ;
of course we slept out at night on their track, and
under the circumstances tried to make ourselves as
comfortable as we could. The third day we overtook
our game in some hills not steep, but very rocky ; our
approach to them was unobserved, so that I got within
thirty yards of a large tusker before I fired. The first
barrel staggered him, the second missed fire, and before
I could shove fresh cartridges into the breeches, my
position was discovered, and I had to seek safety in

GIFTS TO THE FOLK I LEAVE BEHIND ME. 371

flight, while trying as hard as 1 could to reload the gun.
An elephant does not appear to be going fast when in
pursuit of his foe, hut trust not your eyes, or you will
have reason to repent it.

Thus I was hunted from pillar to post, and kept
moving all the time ; ultimately the amusement became
so exciting that I would willingly have dispensed with
the attention of my pursuer, but I could not do so,
for still I was a perfectly used-up man. Finally he
nearly was on the top of me, so I turned and ran down
the coppy side, the monster just behind me ; the ground
was steep, so I suddenly, just as I thought the trunk
was over my shoulder, turned to the left, and the big
beast overshot me, and went on for fifty yards trying
to stop his impetus ; turning suddenly round I gave him
a two ounce bullet in the rump. He never chased a
Christian afterwards.

At length time came for me to bid my Massara
— for I have turned my steps homewards many days
since — good-bye, and I really was very sorry to have
to do so, for they were keen, expert hunters, very
obliging and civil, and, I believe, strictly honest.

Meat they had had to their hearts' content, so the
payment of them according to contract was settled ; but
I felt still their debtor, for I had obtained, while
among them, a valuable collection of ivory and many
choice blood ostrich feathers ; further, I desired to leave
among them something that would recall the stranger's
visit when he was far away. So I summoned them to
the wagon and handed to the chief man, for distribution,
a bag of blue beads, a large coil of brass wire, and three
or four pounds of Boer tobacco ; and to each of the
women, who came gracefully forward to receive it, a

Y2

372 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

necklace, with locket pendant and a bracelet. These
were of Birmingham manufacture, and were so well
made, and so thoroughly resisted tarnishing, that any
hut an adept would have thought them gold. The
delight of these primitive people when they saw the
locket opened and shut was enthusiastic.

To the beauty I gave the handsomest ; it was shown
to all for inspection, and every time she caught my eye
looking at her she clapped her hands and laughed and
laughed again. An hour after she came to the wagon
looking rather glum, and without her ornaments; she
did not understand me, or I should have asked what
had become of them ; but this I soon discovered, for
the great guide soon after came to my fire with them
upon his ungainly person. He was not long in giving
up his booty.

When the wagon started all came along with it as in
days gone by ; but after a few miles their ranks com-
menced to thin, yet none left without bidding me
farewell. The last I saw of my Massara was a group
of nine or ten standing in the road looking after the
wagon; when they saw that I observed them they
gave a wild shout and darted off across the velt.

It has been treck, treck, treck, since I commenced to
narrate my adventures ; if the word bores the reader,
just let him think how much more it bored me. Want
of water I have had many experiences of, but the
following was the severest ordeal I had to endure.
Thank God it was so, or I should not be here to tell it.
From a dirty pool, alive with animal life, we had wound
our tedious way to some springs we had heard of with the
hope of getting my cattle an abundant supply of water
before we commenced to cross a space of desolate sand velt,

A PUZZLE FOR THE SCIENTIFIC. 373

an isthmus, as I may call it, of the Great Thirst Land,
where we were convinced not a drop of liquid could be
obtained for three days, and, possibly, if a certain vley
were dry, for a longer time.

As it was moonlight, and that is the coolest time for
trecking, and your cattle with such light seem to steal
more rapidly over the ground, we made excellent pro-
gress, so that we were outspanned by the last water by
nine o'clock.

The pits in which the water was contained we had
learned were in the source of a dry river-bed — one of
those extraordinary phenomena peculiarly representative
of this part of Africa. That water flowed in them once
constantly cannot be doubted ; but what has become of
it ? Well I had better leave the scientific to explain.

However, all over the country they are to be found,
some large, very large — two hundred and more yards
across ; others small, not greater than a little Scotch
burn. Submerged in the hungry sand — here ever ready
to swallow all it can engulf — you discover boulders
and rocks, marked with the indelible and indisputable
lines that tell so plainly that they have been submitted
to the action of water from time immemorial. And the
vegetation on their margins — the trees, and more espe-
cially the reeds, tell of the presence of water, but where
is it to be found ?

My boys discovered some old pits made by the bush-
men ; they were at least twenty feet deep, and all we could
say of them was that the soil at their bottom was damp.
However, they commenced to dig and scratch till they
had made excavations as large as badger earths ; then a
little water trickled in to reward their labours, and they
went to work more energetically. In an hour they had

374 THE GEE AT THIRST LAND.

got down several feet, and the stream commenced to flow ;
fartHer they went till they reached gritty sandstone.
Here they stopped, for if you break this, and the fact is
worth knowing, though few are aware of it, the precious
fluid will run away. To these holes an hour's rest was
given, when in each apartment was discovered thirty or
forty gallons of water. I consequently had my drink and
dear little Euby hers. Then I left to hunt, the boys
having strict orders to attend most carefully to the
watering of the bullocks, which were now standing
round the excavations looking as if they envied every
drop of water which I and my horse swallowed.

In less than an hour I found giraffes ; they were so
remarkably tame that I do not know how many I could
have killed, but I was satisfied with a cow. On my
way home I encountered a large herd of the grandest
of all antelopes, the eland ; like the previous game they
were so careless of their safety that I might have, with
facility, made my choice of the herd. One reason for my
getting near them with such ease was that the brush t
all mapaney, was very thick and tall, fairly interspersed
with larger timber, thus affording me every opportunity
of, unperceived, approaching the wild animals.

When I returned to camp I found my cattle feeding,
a sure indication that their thirst had been sated, for
unless it is quenched these wilful beasts will not touch
a blade of grass. As the pasture was good here I
resolved to put off my departure till the next afternoon,
and I informed my people of the intended delay.

In the afternoon I again went out for a stroll, and
came across a great number of baobab trees. They grew
generally at a distance of several hundred yards apart,
and at the present time were covered with fruit. The

"THE CHIEF OF A REBELLIOUS CLAN." 375

largest of these immense vegetable productions that I
had yet seen was here found. I carefully measured its
circumference and found it — almost incredible, I acknow-
ledge— one hundred and forty feet in circumference.
Truly it was a giant ; like others that I have observed,
it was hollow, scooped out till but a mere shell remained,
and against that fires had been lighted in numerous
places by the erratic Massaras. The abundance of game
in the vicinity causes me to conclude that there is water
near which my people know nothing of; further, that it
is so scarce in front of us that all the beasts have been
driven in, and thus congregated here.

The spoor of lions along the dry river-bed is very
abundant ; still there is so much prey for them, in the
shape of their natural food, that I do not apprehend any
danger from their attack. About sunset I viewed large
numbers of Namaqua partridge flying north-west, also
flocks of doves, a certain indication that open water is
to be found in that direction. If I were not almost
broken down by my fall from Euby, and by another and
severer accident, also with fever, and had not good grounds
for believing that my people were disaffected, I could
remain here for an indefinite time. My camping-place
is very pretty — a wide long grassy glade, terminating in
the river-bank, and fringed with beautiful trees, the
meruley being most numerous. Umganey gathers their
fruit in pailfuls, to make a drink for my parched lips.
It is very refreshing, and superior to anything of the
kind I know. What a pity no one tries to cultivate it,
so as to reduce the stone, and increase the edible portion !

Disaffection has been apparent among my people for
some time. As to its origin, I am entirely ignorant ;
and, worse than all, I believe Umganey to be infected

376 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

with the disease. Of course, not speaking the language
of my people is a great drawback ; and they again are
equally ignorant of mine. Thus I may frequently mis-
understand them. Again the fever, and the debility
resulting from it, with other causes, have made me very
fractious, and make me give way to temper when any-
thing occurs through their negligence. Among the
natives of this land no greater mistake can be committed,
for they construe it into evidence of weakness, and weak
I truly was. They possess the most wonderful imper-
turbable tempers themselves, and look at a want of it
in others as the essence of childishness.

This evening I had cause to complain. I went to
bed early, after seeing the fires made up, the cattle
secure, and, in fact, everything in ship-shape order,
giving Umganey parting instructions to see that more
wood was collected. About midnight I was awoke by
Ruby jerking against her halter, which was secured
around the upper felloe of one of the hind wheels.
Turning out to see what was the matter, I discovered
that the fires had burned down to only a few coals, and
that there was not a branch near to revive them with.
I called for Umganey, the driver, and foreloper, in suc-
cession, but received no answer. Again and again I
shouted, but with the same result. That they had
deserted en masse was my first thought ; but whether
this was true or not, the fires must be replenished. A
decayed mimosa I had observed in the early part of the
day about a hundred jards off. To it I directed my
steps, and commenced wrenching off the limbs. When
engaged only a few minutes in this occupation, I was
stung in the right wrist by a scorpion. The pain was
intense. Still, I could not desist, firewood must be had

IN WANT OF A EIOT ACT. 377

at all hazards. Again I got hold of a branch to break
off, and again I was stung on the fleshy side of the
hand. This treatment did not improve my temper, as
may be imagined. Having revived the fires to my
satisfaction, I sat down, and considered what I wajs to
do if my people had really run away. A movement
among the bushes on the ridge, and a strong effort of
Euby to break her halter, caused me to look round.
Nothing was visible, yet I felt convinced some wild
animal was near. So to make things doubly secure, I
went into the wagon, and got both lanterns, and hung
them over the mare's head, and then resumed my previous
occupation.

In the distance I heard the soughing, or deep breath-
ing of a lion, but consoled myself with the thought that
the beast was retiring, or would not make that noise. I
listened for the sound to be repeated, but instead of
hearing it again, faint lullalooing, as if of Kaffirs enjoy-
ing themselves, fell on my ear. Again and again I heard
it distinctly, and further imagined that I could see the
reflection of a large fire in the distance. This accounted
for the servants having left — doubtless they were attend-
ing some convivialities ; but where came their hosts
from? I had not seen evidence of the presence of a
native the whole day. However, lions or no lions, I was
determined summarily to put a stop to their establishing
so reprehensible a precedent as this of walking off in the
middle of the night, and leaving the encampment and my
belongings to take care of themselves.

So I took my double gun, and marched off to seek
the revellers. The task was not nearly so easy as an-
ticipated— several small ravines and a dry crack had to
be passed ; brush and fallen trees impeding my progress.

378 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

At length I overcame all obstacles, and walked into the
middle of the merry-makers. Among them were several
strange Massara and their women ; while on the fires
was cooking a plentiful supply of elephant meat. As
may be expected, I did not waste much time or use
much ceremony in ordering my employes to the wagon.
Umganey at once arose to do my bidding, the driver
and another Kaffir sulkily followed his example; but the
foreloper sat still, looking me impudently in the face. I
went towards him to hasten his movements, but I sup-
pose, thinking I was going to lay hold of him, he
jumped up and fled into the bush, from which he
emerged in a few minutes, with an assegai in his hand.
I spoke to him, pointed to the wagon (kiloe), and waved
my hand, indicating that I wished him to go there. In
reply he brandished his weapon. None of the others
interposed, but looked on sullenly. It was a trying
moment. Should I shoot him down or not ? He was
guilty of breach of duty, insubordination, and now
threatened my life. But it is a fearful thing to take
upon oneself the responsibility of launching a human
being into eternity, even when one's own life is in
danger, so I desisted from further proceedings, and.
followed by the three others, returned to my encamp-
ment— not a moment too soon, for I found the horse
down, and partially strangled by the halter, and all the
dogs and cattle in such alarm, that it took me quite
half an hour to get them back to a proper state of
quiet.

What disturbed the camp that night I never knew
positively ; although the spoor of a black rhinoceros was
found in the vicinity next morning. Yet I do not think
it could have caused the uneasiness, for animals of this

A SHOT AT A BLACK RHINOCEROS. 379

kind may dash into an encampment to gratify a mo-
mentary fit of passion, but would not spend their time
idling about it.

Next morning at sunrise, with a couple of the newly-
arrived bushmen, I went off to view some high coppies
that lay to the north-east. They appeared like the debris
of several immense quarries, carelessly thrown upon the
plain. Here lay at hand the material to build a city
without the trouble of quarrying. Frequently through-
out this country this phenomenon occurs, and I am at a
loss to account for it, unless it is caused by an upheaval
produced by earthquakes. On approaching the first
coppy one of the bushmen became excited, and pointed
out something, then his companion followed suit ; but
for all that my eyes refused to see what theirs did.

These children of the desert have wonderfully sharp
vision, being in that respect very much the superior of
the white man. Advancing about fifty yards they again
stopped. Taking the line that they pointed out, all I
could distinguish was what appeared to me a large black
stone. But the stone moved ; it was a rhinoceros.
I was off the mare in a moment, and leaving her with
the bridle hanging between her legs, stalked forward to
get a clear shot. The game, which had been lying
down, rose on its fore legs as a fat pig might do, and
carelessly looked about. Doubtless owing to its hearing
or wonderful gift of scent, it had some idea that intruders
were in the neighbourhood, yet it did not display the
slightest indication of fear. It certainly had not seen
us, but with these animals that is not always necessary to
induce them to take the initiative and commence hostilities.
I was now within sixty paces, and had a good tree at
my back to take shelter in, if my two barrels did not

380 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

effectually do their work. I aimed at the thick part of
the neck in front of the shoulder, and about two hands
beneath the line of the withers. My gun was one of the
eight-bores, which, with seven drams of Curtis and
Harvey behind the bullet, was a most destructive
weapon ; but it required some substance in the shooter
to resist the recoil. Taking a very steady, careful aim,
I fired. The bullet told loudly, and the large swinish-
looking beast simply shoved his fore legs out in front of
him, and apparently settled down for another nap. There
was no hurry, no alarm in the action, and I was aston-
ished. Eeloading, I thought I would try if the brute
treated the contents of the left-hand barrel so cavalierly.
No more notice of it was taken than if it had been a
mosquito ; even the rhinoceros bird moved about its
master's back as intent on his avocation as he had
doubtlessly been for many a previous week.

Being again prepared for anything that might occur,
I approached ; the bushmen preceding me by some dis-
tance ; they took one or two suspicious glances, and then
ran up, not, as I expected, to throw their assegais, but
actually to get on the carcase. The beast was dead,
killed dead in an instant, a little flowing blood on the
nostrils and lips— save the heat of the body — being the
only indication that it had so lately lived.

Following the edge of one of the coppies, I shot a
pair of klep springers, the most graceful of the numerous
graceful animals to be found in this region. Their flesh
I did not require, but the hair of their hides would be
useful to stuff my saddle with. Constant sweat and use
have made that indispensable article sit so close to the
mare's back that I have been lately obliged to use a
piece of folded blanket underneath it — an awkward

A BEAUTIFUL KOODOO. 381

thing at the best of times, and especially in a warm
climate.

Abundant evidences of the late visits of elephants
were to be found in every direction, and as I surmised
that they were not distant, I thought I would take the
trouble to look them up, but this fever is a fearful
curse, it enervates the system so, that resist it as much
as you choose, and resolve as frequently as you like not
to give in, you still discover yourself making excuses for
avoiding exertion in spite of all your resolutions.

I rode up one of the coppies some distance, then left
the mare in charge of one of the men, and taking the
other with me, clambered round to a more inaccessible
portion to watch the gambols of a troop of the graceful
little' grey monkeys so common in this part of the world.
They are certainly a wonderful burlesque on the human
race ; deprive them of their tails, and they would be
perfect imitations.

While sitting here silent, so as not to disturb their
antics, a beautiful koodoo, as large as a well-fed two-
year-old heifer, walked out of the surrounding trees, and
approached within fifty yards. The white transverse
lines on its back were very wide and unusually distinct ;
its head was graced with a magnificent pair of horns.
However much I should have liked to have these at
home, the trouble of carrying them so many thousand
miles was not commensurate with the reward. The cool,
indolent manner in which this animal walked about was
very amusing. If it had been a family pet in a home
paddock it would probably have conducted itself in the
same way. I hope it still lives and enjoys life as it then
appeared to do.

As I intended trecking in the afternoon, I left this

?82 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

fascinating place, where all is as nature formed it, un-
sullied and beautiful. On my way back to the wagon
I saw giraffes in the distance, and although on capital
galloping ground, I left them alone.

A party were despatched for a portion of the rhino-
ceros, who returned about three o'clock, when I sent for
the cattle to commence the dreaded journey.

CHAPTEE XXXIII.

OUR SUFFERINGS IN THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

Learning to Labour and to Wait — Utter Loneliness — Foreloper's Insolence —
Doubts about Umganey — Looking for my Oxen — Trecking by Night — Camp
attacked by Rhinoceros — Covered by a Blanket — A very cool Morning —
A beautiful Spot — My Cattle unattended to — I fell the Driver and Foreloper
— Foreloping in Sand No Water to be had — Cattle maddened at the Smell
of my small private Supply — Ackennan ungovernable — He knocks me to
the Ground — Umganey ill — Poor Bob wounded — Poor Forty's Hind-legs
Broken — Dire Extremities — Water ! Water ! — Saved — A Young Boer Tra-
veller— His Misfortunes — His Saulted Horse slain by a Lion — Forty not
Dead — Drinking- Places — Wild Animals quenching their Thirst — Elephant
and Rhinoceros at the Water — Lion's Voice — Joined by Macalacas and
Mashoonas — Bonty's Head cut open by some wild Beast.

IT is one thing to send for your bullocks, and quite
another to get them. With Umganey I had left orders
for all to be prepared to move at three, but not the
slightest arrangement had been made to do so.

I fretted, and fumed, and smoked, but all was of no
avail, the cattle did not arrive till half an hour before
dark, and then they had not been watered, so in spite
of myself I was compelled to delay my departure for
another day. This I should not have so much objected
to, as the locality was all that could be desired ; but it
is ever disagreeable to find yourself subordinate to your
servants, instead of being their master. To wait instead
of being waited on is, to say the least, eminently
distasteful.

Again, my fever was due on the morrow, which
would probably incapacitate me from taking an active

384 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

part in supervising my affairs, for as far as in my power
lies I trust to no one. Again, another strong, I may
say all-powerful, reason for travelling was — well, the
reader may feel surprise at my reason, but whether or
not I will tell it — it was once more to be among people
who understood what I said, and whose language I
could comprehend. If Morris had not broken down,
and in consequence been compelled to return home, we
might have remained here for an indefinite period. I
could have wished for nothing better ; he might have
killed the game, and I should have felt happy in his
enjoyment of the sport ; but to be alone, with no one
to talk to, no one to tell what you have done, what
adventures you have gone through, to sit by your fire alone
at night, to keep your watch, to eat your meals without
a person to speak to, is lonely work indeed, so lonely,
so dull, so sad, that if a man went mad under the cir-
cumstances, my verdict would be, " What might have
been expected." I am not rich, I have not much to
give, but I would have parted with that little to have
had Morris with me.

Why the cattle were not up I have discovered to be
due to the for eloper, who had made up his mind that he
would have another night here. I am powerless to
prevent it, so must make a virtue of necessity. The
scoundrel has again been most insolent, and threatened
me with his assegai. May the Supreme Being give me
strength not to — I hate to write the words — take the
provoker's life. The temptation is strong, I may be
wrong in resisting it, and it may cost me my own in
consequence ; but then after all it is but for one very
weary to lay down his life, and for ever be at rest.

Umganey's conduct has hurt me, but I must not

TRECKINO BY NIGHT. 385

judge him harshly ; he knows but a few words of
English, and might possibly have misunderstood some-
thing I have said or done ; even with that excuse I
never thought to see him stand by inert and indisposed
to interfere when my life was threatened. I would not
have served him so though the odds had beenatribeto one.

That night all the Massara bushmen came up and
camped beside my people ; there was meat and to spare
for all, so they made a night of it, and lullaloed to their
hearts' content. As no wild animal would approach
while such a turmoil was taking place, I turned in early,
took a heavy dose of quinine and chloral, and slept all
night. In the morning I awoke refreshed, and felt
almost myself again.

Again at the time appointed no cattle were forth-
coming ; I jumped on the mare and went to seek them,
and the sun was only an hour high when I discovered
them feeding in a ravine. Without more ado I drove
them up. Yet they must be watered before going into
the yoke, and that was a matter of time, when each
animal had to be served separately, and from a pit
thirty feet deep. The sun had gone down, it was what
we call in Scotland " daylight gone/' when the beasts
were brought to the wagon. There was nothing for it
but to yoke. I saw each ox put in his place, gave the
order to treck, handed the mare to Umganey, and
taking a lantern in my hand, led the way through
ivory needle thorn and mapaney brush directly towards
the southern cross.

Slowly, certainly, and, I may add, sadly, I struggled
forward for five long hours till the brush gave place to
open velt. From the stars I judged it to be midnight
when we outspanned.

386 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

Plenty of meat hung to the wagon, and as on
the previous evening the hoys, foreloper and all, for
that worthy had turned up when he found me resolved
to go, huilt an enormous fire close by, and hetween
eating and shouting kept me awake. Towards daylight
this was still going on, when I heard several exclamations
of terror. I looked out of the front of the wagon. The
boys were %ing helter-skelter everywhere, and a rhino-
ceros was trotting backwards and forwards across the fire,
tossing carosses, skins, cooking-utensils, and blankets about
as if they each contained some body. From England I
had brought several red blankets, one of which in a weak
moment I gave to Umganey. As it lay beside the fire
it seemed to particularly take the fancy of the irate
beast. At it he went, got his horn well into it, but there
it seemed to stick, the more he shook his head the
more it seemed tightly to wrap itself around it, entirely
hiding the eyes. A struggle or two more was made, but
still without avail ; and the rhinoceros, ever grotesque,
and more so under present circumstances than ever I
saw it before, with a snort, bound, and kick started off as
hard as he could go for the sombre shadows of the
forest, with a two -ounce bullet behind his shoulder. How
he escaped knocking that ornamental headpiece of his
against a tree, an accident which did not occur as long
as he was in sight, was truly wonderful. In the morning
he was found dead.

Before daylight I turned out to see the cattle
yoked; it was very cool, my teeth almost chattered
as I went round about directing; exercise and employ-
ment soon corrected this, so again I headed the cavalcade
to our next halting-place, as pretty a spot as can well be
imagined. A ridge of hills appeared to bar our way :

INSOLENCE, LIKE VIRTUE, MEETS ITS REWARD. 387

when we got close to it I discovered an entrance (called
Poort by the Boers) or passage. Having threaded this
for more than a mile, a most beautiful level plain of
about a thousand acres was entered, shut in on every
side by hills. This valley -like plain was covered with
baobab and meruley trees, while spoor of nearly all
descriptions of game proclaimed it a favourite resort.
Here let us rest, and we outspanned.

The driver and a big Kaffir whom I called William
came to me, Umganey to the best of his ability acted as
interpreter. Their proposal was that they thought
they could find water enough for the mare and cattle a
little distance off if I would permit them to take them.
I readily gave my consent. After breakfast I took my
rifle and wandered off to see as much as possible of the
beauty 'of the place. About noon I returned. Two
hours passed and there was no sign of the cattle
returning, so I went in search of them. They were soon
found, but it was evident from their hollow flanks
that they had not had a drop of water. I drove them
up so as to be ready to yoke when the absent ones
returned. This they did soon after. To my surprise I
found the mare Euby — the animal I so much loved —
who never would have borne the name she did but for
her numerous good qualities, reminding me of her whom
to know was to love — was severely cut about the neck,
and contused nearly all over the head.

The driver was insolent, the foreloper jeered me. I
could stand it no longer — my patience was worn out ;
so, like a bird of prey, I rushed upon them. A yoke-
key was in my hand ; I struck, meaning to hurt, and in
an instant both lay stunned at my feet. When they
recovered, along with the Kaffir William, they walked
z 2

388 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

off, and left me to get through the Great Thirst
Waste the best way I could. Umganey was with me,
it is true, but his countenance plainly indicated that
his sympathy was with the enemy.

Delay was now impossible, so he and I inspanned
the bullocks, he foreloping and I driving. Ackerman
was on his worst behaviour ; he most determinedly
ran into every tree that was near. The axe conse-
quently was seldom out of my hands ; but I did not
shirk my labour, so that before dark we had accomplished
a long treck.

Next day Umganey and I trecked and foreloped in
turns : the labour of the latter task no one can imagine.
The sand was loose, and came over the uppers of my
boots at every stride, while the parched bullocks moved
as if every step would be their last. Toward evening I
discovered that the runaways were following me ; their
desire to obtain food was doubtless the reason. So I
told Umganey that on no account were they to have
any of my provisions, and that neglect on his part to
attend to what I said would bring upon him my severest
displeasure.

Worn out and heart-sick, soon after dark I lay down
in the wagon : the cover by this time had almost en-
tirely been worn or torn off it. I slept longer than
anticipated, and was awoke by the noise of voices
speaking. Shoving my hand under the pillow, I secured
my revolver, and quietly raising myself, looked out, and
there were the wretches, who cared not whether I lived
or died, eating my supplies. Again I had a mind to
shoot, but did not; instead, however, I sprang from
the wagon. In an instant the driver and foreloper were
into the bushes, aod out of sight, the big Kaffir sur-

SUFFERINGS OF MY CATTLE. 389

rendering at discretion. He had done nothing but
leave, and this doubtless at the instigation of the others,
so I determined to have no words with him then, but
wait till I could bring him before his chief in the kotla.

Next day, we all took turns driving and foreloping.
The latter was too hard work for one person to continue
constantly at. By night we reached a large vley, where
we hoped to find water. Alas ! it was dry ; and then
thirty miles more had to be traversed before there was
the slightest possibility of getting any.

The trials we all had that night were fearful.
Slowly, almost by inches, the wagon toiled on, for the
sand was deep enough to cover the felloes of the wheels.
The poor oxen ! my heart bled for them. Their throats
were so parched they could not low, while their insides
produced a grating noise, as if two hard substances were
being rubbed together. The boys, with the usual im-
providence of their respective races, had used or wasted
their supply of water, but I still had a little remaining
in my fachey. I could not spare them any, for I had
already denied myself drink, that I might sponge out
Buby's mouth, so as to reduce her sufferings as much as
possible.

At midnight we outspanned for a couple of hours.
We lit only one fire, and, dejected and down- spirited,
cowered over it. We had no fear of wild animals.
Here, so far from water, they were not likely to be
found. Whether or no, I do not think any of us cared
very much if they did pay us a visit.

Before trecking, I went to my fachey to draw a
small tin of water to divide between the mare and
myself. The oxen smelt it, and became in a moment
like mad animals. Shouts and blows reduced them all

390 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

to some semblance of discipline, except old Ackerman ;
lie reared, pulled backwards, and rushed forward. Pacify
him we could not, so at length he broke his reim, and
rushed madly about the wagon. At length he discovered
the vessel that contained the water, and endeavoured to
knock it down. I went to the rescue, for I feared the
fall of the small keg would cause it to be stove in, and
the precious fluid lost ; but the mad ox turned on me,
knocked me down with a severe blow on the head, given
by the side of the nigh horn, and afterwards tramped
on my leg. I only saved myself by having presence of
mind to crawl under the wagon: It took half an hour
to secure that crazy brute, and even then, tied with a
double reim, it struggled so fearfully, that several times
it threw itself down.

Again we trecked till daybreak, when we outspanned
for two hours ; but the cattle would not eat the dry
herbage around them. Umganey was too ill to forelope,
so I made him get into the wagon, and took the leading
reim myself. If any one could have seen me, toiling and
hauling the half-dead cattle through the heavy sand,
pouring with perspiration and hid in a cloud of dust,
they must have pitied me, even supposing them to be
the hardest-hearted people in the world.

But if we suffered, and the cattle suffered, the poor
dogs appeared to endure the ordeal worse. They ran
about like creatures that were blind, recognised no
one, and were momentarily in danger of getting run
over.

About ten o'clock I heard a yell: I dropped the
leading reim, and ran back. The hind wheel had
passed over one of poor faithful tried Bob's legs, and
broken it. I lifted him in my arms and placed him on

AN END TO OUR MISERY. 391

my bed in the wagon. He would not stop there, so I
had to leave him to hobble on the best way he could,
and retake my place in front.

I had long resolved what to do if the wagon came
to a standstill — namely, ride on with the cattle, and leave
the Kaffir to take charge of them, and bring back as much
water as I could carry. Several times I thought the
emergency had arrived to adopt this, but through my
hauling, and the Kaffir using his whip, we continued to
crawl slowly forward.

Another yell. This time it is poor little Forty, the
gift of Mr. Mackenzie — both hind legs broken. As she
lay on the road, incapable of further effort, I thought it
best to have her destroyed, yet I had not the heart to
take her life. So we moved forward about a couple of
hundred yards, when I sent the Kaffir back with his
assegai to do the deed I could not myself do. Soon he
returned. I asked him no questions ; I wished to know
nothing of the termination of my favourite's life.

Again I hauled and pulled, the perspiration blinding
me, the dust choking me, while my throat was so dry that
I could not swallow. The cattle must go on to water
alone, another mile they cannot accomplish ; sending
them forward is our only salvation, when every ox
commenced to step out, then to walk fast, then trot, then
gallop. The dogs, even Bob on his three legs, rush on
ahead, and in an hour afterwards we are outspanned, each
bullock standing up to his middle gulping down filthy
water that lay in a hole in a dry river-bed. But foul as
this liquid was, all seemed to enjoy it ; the oxen filled
themselves to such an extent that as they moved up the
bank it ran in streams out of their mouths. The dogs
lay in it, and lapped and lapped again, while Umganey

392 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

and the Kaffir drank and washed and paddled in it for
upwards of an hour.

To appreciate water thoroughly one has to go through
an ordeal like the foregoing. Such an experience of the
Great Thirst Land, although lasting only a few days,
will take years from a man's life.

Beside this pool of water I found a young Boer out-
spanned. My woe-begone appearance, my exhausted
cattle, and last, though not least, my coverless wagon,
brought him to me full of feelings of sympathy. But
he, poor fellow, had lately suffered some buffeting ; pos-
sibly it made him more able to appreciate trouble endured
by others. To some men it might appear a trifle what
he had to complain of; to those who know the people
of the northern portion of the Transvaal who live by
elephant-hunting quite the reverse.

He was en route to his favourite shooting-ground,
doubtless expecting to return in six months or a year
with ivory and ostrich -feathers enough to start him in
life, when yesterday in broad daylight the lions had
pulled down and killed his saulted horse. Without it, it
was useless to go forward, and if he returned he had not
the means of purchasing another. His trip was ruined,
and indefinitely he would have to wait till circumstances
would enable him to replace this valuable accessory to
his means of a subsistence.

Possibly he had made up his mind that this was to
be his last expedition, and perhaps some fair-haired Boer
damsel was even now counting the days when her affianced
husband would return with wealth sufficient to stock a
farm and make her his bride.

Yes, the poor fellow — stalwart and manly as he was
— could scarcely hide the tears that unbidden rose to his

ON THE WATCH AGAINST WILD BEASTS. 393

eyes. I felt for him — sincerely sympathised with him.
He informed me that there was a perfect troop of lions
about this water, that they were round his cattle all
night, and he and the boys had in consequence been kept
the whole time in attendance on the fires to prevent their
attacking his team.

Not liking such news I determined to treck at once,
and get a few miles farther on my route before night
closed in.

My attendants evinced every reluctance to such a
step, but I insisted, and had my way. We had scarcely
travelled a mile when poor little Forty on his broken
stumps overtook us. The Kaffir had not obeyed my
instructions, so the wretched sufferer, strong in affection
for his master, enduring the most excruciating agony,
had followed along the tedious, sandy road. The injuries
were such that it appeared impossible that anything
living could accomplish such a task, so I resolved to try
to save her life. I placed her in the wagon, and tied
her there, she submitting to the operation with a very
bad grace.

An hour after sundown we were outspanned upon an
open velt, with plenty of firewood stored for the night's
consumption, and the guns ready for immediate service.
William the Kaffir was a plucky fellow and a good
shot, so I trusted him with one of the double barrels,
and he and I took watch, turn about during the
night.

When water becomes scarce in these thirsty plains,
the whole of the wild animals that inhabit them con-
gregate around any pool that may be left, for with very
few exceptions all have to drink once in twenty-four
hours. The lions, which follow the game, thus are led

394 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

to these drinking-places not only to assuage their thirst,
but to satisfy their hunger.

To watch one of these pools at night, as I did in
the northern Massara country, is a grand sight, and one
never to be forgotten. The naturalist and the sportsman
can here see sights that will astonish them, and cause
them to wonder at the wonderful instincts possessed by
the animal kingdom. That the Creator has ordered all
things well we know, but the minute details to which
they have been reduced is seldom noted except by those
who live not the life of the busy trading world, such as
wander into those portions of the earth undisturbed by
the presence of man.

At such watering-places the small antelopes invariably
drink first, the larger later on, and with them the zebras
and buffaloes. After these come the giraffes, closely
followed by the rhinoceros, and next the elephant, who
never attempts to hide his approach — conscious of his
strength — but trumpets forth a warning to all whom it
may concern that he is about to satisfy his thirst. The
only animal that does not give place to the elephant is
the rhinoceros ; obstinate, headstrong, and piglike, he
may not court danger, but assuredly he does not . avoid
it. The elephant may drink by his side, but must not
interfere with him, for he is quick to resent an insult,
and I am assured that when one of these battles takes
place the rhinoceros is invariably the victor. The elephant
is large, of gigantic power, but the other is far more
active, while the formidable horn that terminates his
nose is a dreadful weapon when used with the force that
he has the power to apply to it. I have been told on
trustworthy authority that a rhinoceros in one of those
blind fits of fury to which they are so subject, attacked

THE VOICE OF THE LION. 395

a large wagon, inserted his horn between the spokes of
the wheel, and instantly overturned it, scattering the
contents far and wide, and afterwards injuring the
vehicle to such an extent as to render it useless.

The lion is not tied to time in drinking. After it
feeds it comes to water, but it never would dare to inter-
fere with the rhinoceros or the elephant. Where the
buffalo exists in numbers it is the principal prey of the
lion ; in other localities antelope and chiefly the zebra are
its food.

A strange circumstance connected with the lion is,
that it is almost impossible to tell where he is when you
hear his voice. When roaring loudly he places his head
to the ground, gradually raising it as he diminishes the
power of his voice. Although I cannot say that I
recognise anything terrible in the lion's voice, many
other people do, and I have been in the company of
persons who became completely demoralised while it
lasted. That this animal's voice makes the earth
vibrate is a fact.

The peculiarity I have alluded to of it being diffi-
cult to distinguish where the king of beasts is by his
voice is said to be utilised in this way : their prey hear
it, and to avoid the destroyer rush into his grasp.

A Bechuana hunter of great experience told me this
in presence of many of his countrymen, and there are no
closer observers living of the animal world amid which
they reside than these people.

We trecked next day, and made satisfactory progress.
At noon I had occasion to turn back a few hundred
yards on the trail, and I found, to my astonishment, the
spoor of several lions, whose treck was over the bullocks',
and, therefore, must have been placed there since we

396 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

passed. Surprised, yet desirous of finding out whether
we were being followed by the brutes, I went several
hundred yards farther, and became assured such was the
case.

Eeturning, I informed Umganey and "William the
Kaffir of my discovery ; there was nothing to be appre-
hended from them by daylight all agreed, but at night
— and we should have to treck the greater portion of it,
or we would not reach water on the morrow — we should
have to be additionally careful.

A little piece of luck here occurred ; we were over-
taken by a party of Macalacas and Mashoonas going to
the Diamond-fields. For food they were willing to
accompany us and give us any assistance required.
Thus I got a foreloper and a man to lead the mare,
with several others that could be utilised in any manner
desirable.

Our first night-treck was commenced immediately
after sunset. One of the new people walked in front of
the foreloper with a lantern, Huby was led behind the
wagon by another, then the rest of the people, Umganey
just behind them with the other lantern, and myself
last, armed with my double gun.

That the lions were about us all night I am certain,
for the bullocks and the mare were constantly showing
signs of great alarm, and poor Bonty, who happened to
leave the road, got a blow from something that cut his
head open, causing him to sing out most emphatically,
and seek the shelter of the wagon, which he carefully
avoided leaving till break of day.

As the journey was a short one to the next drinking-
place — fourteen or fifteen miles — I went on, leaving
instructions to be followed by the wagon. The day was

OSTRICHES WARY. 397

very close and sultry, and the sand on the road exceed-
ingly heavy.

To the left, on a large open space, which until lately
had been a large vley of water, a number of ostriches
were feeding, but at such a distance that I did not (Jeem
it expedient to disturb them, more especially as there
was no cover in the vicinity to assist me in a stalk.

Ostriches are so wary, and their long necks give
them such a control of distance, that without shelter it
is perfectly useless to try and get within a range in
which there is a probability of doing execution.

CHAPTEE XXXIV.

THE LION OF THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

No Water — Ruby's Faintness — Her Splendid Behaviour — Meeting with a Lion —
His Lordship turns tail — We come upon Water — Meet with English
Traders outspanned — A Pleasant Time — Dine with one another — My Wagon
and theirs — Excellent Feed — A Lion within easy reach of me — Prefer not to
be snapped up — Bayed at by Curtin's Dog — Oxen prepared against Attack
— Strange Mashoona Custom— We Part — About the Baobab —The species
of Lions — Black-maned — Tellow-maned — Their Characters— Maneless — The
Lion of the Great Thirst Land — North and South Africa.

FIRST one place and then another where I had hoped
to discover at least a small quantity of water I found
dried up, the bottoms baked as hard as stone. The
last place I knew of, about eight miles farther on,
might also be in the same state. The question was
whether poor little Euby would stand the ordeal, for she
suffered much. Yet she has not evinced any symptom
of weakness, still it has struck me twice during the last
hour that a certain giving beneath the saddle spoke
plainly that there was a limit beyond which even the
very best and pluckiest specimens of horseflesh could
not go. However, of two evils choose the lesser, and it
appeared to me that to break down looking for water
was better than to give up and patiently wait for a
release from all our earthly troubles through thirst.

Ehinoceros spoor was so abundant that I felt con-
vinced that water was near if I only knew where to look
for it ; but I was too weary, and my little mare too used •

HEAVY TOIL IN SANDY SOIL. 399

up, to make experiments, so I resolved to push on till I
reached the vley, where I anticipated finding it.

The sand along the track was so fearfully loose, such
as you sometimes find by the coast, that it seems to
•pass away backwards under the pressure of jour, foot,
and cut short the length of your pace by one-half,
so I took to walking until we got at least on better
ground.

This was reached in about a mile and a half, and,
without exception, it was as wearisome a tramp for the
distance as ever I experienced. But, thank goodness!
there is an end to all things, and at length I had the
satisfaction of feeling firm soil beneath my feet. As
the day was not yet old, and desiring to rest Ruby, I
thought I would tramp on a little farther, so passing my
arm through the reins I . led the way, she following
close on my heels. Among her many good qualities
this was one she possessed, most valuable in a hunter's
horse, and even when I would halt to shoot she would
stop and never jerk back, as too many will, to the cer-
tain destruction of the aim of the marksman. Thus we
had gone on possibly a mile from where we had left the
sand, when I felt almost an imperceptible tightening of
the rein across my shoulder ; I turned round to see, if
possible, what could be the cause, when I observed
Ruby's eyes very much expanded, and gazing to our left
front ; following the direction indicated, about sixty
yards in advance, and close to the road, I discovered a
large male lion, with a magnificent dark mane.

• He had already discovered our approach, and was
standing up, switching his flanks, yet looking irresolute
whether to retire or advance. While hesitating what
was the best course of action to pursue, the king of

400 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

beasts thought to intimidate me, for with a quiet, mea-
sured step he advanced, showing his teeth, and giving
utterance to a short, smothered growl. Cocking my
gun, I waited, resolved not to fire till the brute was
within thirty yards, when, if the first bullet did not do
its work, the second would be delivered at a shorter
range. His majesty, however, disapproved of the posi-
tion of affairs, halted, looked round to see if the way
were open for retreat, turned, and trotted quietly off,
every few strides casting a look over his shoulder, to
assure himself that he was not followed. Had the range
not been so great, I should have fired ; but possibly it
was better I did not do so, for if I had only wounded
the animal, it certainly would have been a case for the
second barrel to decide whether he or I was to be
killed.

This little contretemps seemed to put fresh energy
into myself and mare, for when I got into the saddle, of
her own accord she managed to get up a canter, which
she retained for a couple of miles.

The vley could not be very distant now, and I
was commencing to wonder that it had not been already
reached, when I heard the tinkling of ox-bells, and soon
after saw a large mob of cattle, in charge of some Mata-
bele herdsmen. Approaching them, I found one under-
stood a few words of English, so I told him not to go in
the direction in which the cattle were feeding, as I had
just seen a lion. On that the herdsmen headed the
cattle in the direction I was pursuing.

At length I recognised that the forest was becoming
less dense, the renewed energy of my mare told me that
she smelt water, and was anxious to reach it, so giving
her a slack rein, she broke into a gallop, and in a few

JOLLY, GOOD FELLOWS. ,. 401

minutes after was up to her knees, gulping down the
craved-for liquid with apparently insatiable avidity.

I had now time to look about, and with pleasure
discovered that three wagons were outspanned close by,
so I turned my steps towards them. The first I xcame
to, the proprietor, a young Englishman of the name of
Curtin, came forth and welcomed me, begging that I
would become his guest till my own conveyance came
up. With gratitude I accepted the kindness, so dis-
mounted, and knee-haltered my horse. I then went to
the next wagon, in which I found the proprietor, Mr.
Catenby, who would hear of no refusal, but that he
should become my host; but having explained how a
previous arrangement would prevent this, he sent over
word to the gentleman I had spoken to first, to say that
he also would be one of his guests. The third wagon
belonged to a Boer, who could not speak English — a
fine, tall, handsome specimen of a man, with the reputa-
tion of being an excellent hunter.

I felt so thoroughly tired, that from sheer exhaustion
I threw myself on the ground ; but Mr. Catenby and
Mr. Curtin, kind, good-hearted fellows, produced a glass
of brandy, purloined from their small stock reserved for
medicinal purposes, the result of which was that in a
quarter of an hour I was myself again.

This unexpected meeting was so pleasant, that we
agreed that as it was Saturday afternoon, all should
postpone trecking till next evening ; and as I was to be
their guest to-night, they would be mine at an early
hour on the morrow.

Before sunset my wagon arrived, so travel-stained
and worn that it looked a sad, sorry affair when con-
trasted with their smart, painted, snow-white covered

/

A A

402 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

ones. Will their appearance be the same when, in a
year hence, if no casualty has happened to their owners,
they retrace their steps to civilisation ? It is doubtful
indeed — more than doubtful.

As the ground on the edge of the vley was all occu-
pied, my people had to take up an outside position, and,
in consequence, I gave strict orders for an unusually
large supply of firewood to be laid in ; with the far end
of the treck-tow made fast, and the oxen secured with
short reims to their yokes.

The sun had not long been set when Mr. Curtin's man
came to borrow my chairs, and announce that dinner was
ready. We followed him over to his wagon, and just as
tbe gloaming was quickly fading away into darkness we
sat down to our meal, with a small clear fire between us, as
the evenings were getting cool. Our feed was excellent —
it was a stew made out of kid, and thickened with rice
and onions. It was our only dish, truly, but our appetites
were not fastidious — we were hungry, and could eat so
much of this homely fare, that we had no desire for
entree or dessert.

A few bushes extended from the woods to within ten
or twelve yards of where I sat. To this my back was
turned ; while Mr. Curtin was seated on my left, Mr.
Catenby on the right. At length our meal was finished,
and the plates had been removed. Then the soother of
all our troubles, the consoler in all our difficulties — the
pipe — was produced, loaded, and brought into service.
Our tin beakers were again replenished, for I had ran-
sacked my supplies, that I might add something at least
better than water — one mass of animalculse and filth —
to the feast.

Our tongues became loosened ; times like these, and

NOT TO BE TAKEN ABACK. 403

associates thus unexpectedly met, are ever the cause of
conversation becoming fluent, and a pleasant night being
passed. Thus we were enjoying ourselves, when I
heard — well, a low, heavy, suppressed breathing, and a
rustling, as if some large body were forcing a passage
through the bushes. My ears of late had been too well
accustomed to such sounds not to know what they indi-
cated, so not to alarm the others, I quietly asked them
to excuse my stepping over the fire between them, as I
wished to turn my face in the other direction. I did so,
and put down my stool. Both my new friends looked
at me with surprise — then one of them remarked, " You
had some object in that ; you did it in such a methodical
manner." To this I agreed, and added, " There is a lion
behind me, and if he meditates mischief, I would sooner
be attacked in front than in rear." " You must be
mistaken, you are most assuredly deceived, it would
never think of coming so near our fires." And at this
moment a large white dog, belonging to Mr. Curtin —
a cross between the greyhound and mastiff — rushed
from beneath the wagon, where he had been sleeping,
dashed into the bush, and commenced to bay some
animal, that evidently had no intention of giving way,
and which he was unable to attack.

We left our seats and retired to the wagon, and
under its shelter smoked our pipes to the -end ; however,
we had not got quite so far in the enjoyment of the
weed when the lion, finding himself discovered, got up,
walked off" a few paces, and then placing his mouth to
the ground awoke the sleeping echoes that lurked around
the neighbouring coppies.

Curtin was tired and went to roost, Catenby came
with me to my wagon, because it occupied the point of
A A 2

404 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

danger. Willingly my lads piled more fuel on the fires,
till the brilliant flames rose several feet from the ground.
My new friend and self, with a gun each at hand, took
our seats upon the wagon-box, and scarcely had we
done so when the roaring recommenced, and was answered
in several different directions.

My dogs were no use, closer and closer they crouched
in their sleeping-places, while the white dog of Mr.
Curtin was out baying the marauders, giving indication
by his voice and vehemence of the whereabouts of the
enemy. But my oxen were a sight to look at ; one by
one, when they had heard the dreaded sound, rose from
their previously recumbent position and faced towards
where they apprehended danger. They had learned by
this time to place confidence in man, and that their
safety depended upon being in his vicinity; so they
stood, without an effort to break loose, with their small
ears erect, and their eyes looking as if they would burst
from their sockets.

At length day broke, and the disappointed carnivora
retired to the east, indicating by an occasional growl or
suppressed roar that the success of their night's work
had not been satisfactory. The spoor in the morning
was easily found, and the natives asserted that there
were no less than seven in the coterie.

A circumstance occurred during the loudest part of
the serenade. I have seen the same take place before,
but it is sufficiently strange to mention. A Mashoona
took a brand from the fire and walked into the woods
directly towards the lions. When he had got close to
them he waved his fire-stick about his head, and then
made a long speech in a very highly -pitched voice. Mr.
Catenby, who is conversant with the language, translated

CURIOUS CUSTOM OF REBUKING THE LION. 405

it at the time. The words, as nearly as I can remember,
were — " 0 mighty lord, why do you come and disturb
my cattle, or have you become too old and lazy to hunt,
or are you turned woman-hearted ? Go your way, the
quagga and hartebeest are yours, the koodoo and the
buffalo : they await you while you lose your time here ;
leave, I say, or we shall think you no better than the
hyaena, whose associate you will become."

This man must have gone quite close to the lions,
and yet he had no other protection than the glowing
coal at the end of a stick not over an inch and a half in
diameter.

After an early dinner, and a right good one it was,
for I had coran and several brace of Nam aqua partridge
and stein-buck boiled into rags to make soup, we waited
for the hour of trecking, I to find my way to Soshong
beyond the Bamanwatto Hills, my new friends to treck,
treck, treck, till they had passed the northern limits of
the Great Thirst Land. But before the moment of
parting comes we have still a little time on our hands,
which we shall endeavour to make the most of.

Here in this vicinity occur the first specimens to be
met with, going from the south, of that mammoth of the
vegetable kingdom, the baobab tree, supposed by some to
have had its existence prior to the Flood. It is far from
a handsome production, resembling, the more I look
at it, an inverted beetroot or carrot than anything else
I know. Its height is seldom more than eighty or
ninety feet, but from the enormous thickness of the
stem, and the few branches that it possesses — trees in
themselves — it does not look half so high.

The fruit has the appearance of an unhusked cocoa-
nut, but instead of the exterior being brown it is green,

406 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

and covered with, a velvety surface. It is frequently
called the cream of tartar tree, because between the
seeds there is a pulpy, crystallised-looking substance,
which when soaked in water makes an extremely pleasant
acid drink. Persons suffering from fever use it, and
I am informed derive great benefit from its gentle
purgative qualities.

The vitality this tree possesses is truly amazing ; you
may burn around it, cut the bark through with an axe,
and in fact do what you like to it, still it resents all
efforts at its destruction.

Its trunk is very frequently hollow, with an opening
on one side ; the interior then becomes a dwelling-
place for snakes, scorpions, and centipedes. Its upper
branches also are a favourite resting-place for birds, from
the giant crane and the crested crane to the sociable
grosbeak. Thus these trees are a zoological garden on
a small scale.

The specimen before me measures only eighty feet
in circumference — a trifle the reader may say — but one
of the boys informs me through Umganey that he has
seen plenty twice as big. In the interior of this one
fifty men might have found sleeping space. The big
trees of California are rather thrown in the shade by the
baobab tree.

Of lions, as of leopards and zebras, I am certain that
there are three distinct species. By asserting this I do
not mean to say that the one may not cross or breed
with the other. The greyhound or Newfoundland will
with the pug or turnspit (wretches which have become
fashionable under the name of dachshund, and which
a very gullible public have been induced to become
purchasers of), yet the cross is a nondescript, and

CLASSIFICATION OF THE SOUTH AFRICAN LION. 407

represents neither one tiling nor the other. By one
skilled in dogs the characteristic marks of both will be
easily detected in the bastard offspring, for they are as
different from their parents as chalk is from cheese,
yet I would not make these nondescripts represent a
species.

I daresay many will differ from me, but the follow-
ing is the classification I should make of the South
African lion : the black-maned, the yellow-maned, and
the maneless.

The first animal stands high on his legs, in fact, is
the tallest of the race, lightest in the limb, most active
and most courageous. I think that this brute hunts
for pleasure as well as profit. I would not say that
every day this occurs, but that frequently it is instigated
by a love of the chase, and undertakes it or a descent
on a bullock train for the sake of the fun that it has in
slaughtering; as far as man is concerned, this is the
most venturesome and consequently the most to be
dreaded.

The next is the yellow-maned lion, an uncouth,
great powerful beast, massive in limbs and neck, and
enormous in its girth of chest, but always possessed of
a hollow back, and looks extremely weak across the
coupling. This animal will attack anything, but it
wants hunger to wake him up from his lethargy. Not
that he is a coward — far from it — but a lazy beast, who
loves his ease, and will not take exercise until compelled
to do so to support the calls or demands of nature.

The first or dark-maned lion will get into a kraal,
seize an ox or calf, and take it away with him; the
second will eat it if hungry where slaughtered, and defy
fifty men to prevent him. The latter at such a time can

408 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

as easily be shot as a familiar bullock or horse ; the
former is always on the qui vive, and until he is prostrate
on the ground, and the white stripe along his belly
is conspicuous, look out, for if he has a kick in him
and can do mischief he will.

The yellow lion will give up life in a respectable
way, not as a coward, but as one resigned to circum-
stances. The black-maned will fight on to the bitter
end, even although every effort it makes causes its heart's
blood to flow upon the velt, and hastens dissolution.

The one, in fact, is the hero who does his best in
the fight and succumbs to the odds ; the other is the
Malay who runs amuck and buries his creese in what-
ever approaches him while he possesses a hand to move.

But the maneless lion, more like, with the exception
of the size of his head, a panther than the others I have
spoken of, possesses all the stealth and cunning of the
animal he resembles, his habits are possibly more
nocturnal, and he is seldom heard to howl. Man he will
attack if wounded or coerced, but not under other
circumstances ; his activity is immense, and his power
commensurate with it. Bushmen say that he will
lodge in the lower branches of a tree ; of this I have
not had evidence, but these people are keen observers of
the animal kingdom, and seldom tell untruths upon the
subject.

If the Guzerat or maneless lion of India is a distinct
species, then its representative in Africa is the same.
Your stay-at-home naturalists oppose everything they
do not know; but if to them we had to trust for
information, we should be as ignorant at the present
day as we were a thousand years ago.

The Kaffirs and their kindred tribes, who are such

KING OF LIONS AND OF BEASTS. 409

admirable practical naturalists that they can imitate the
actions and voice of all the wild animals that exist in
their vicinity — and do so so perfectly that they will
charm the most experienced practical observer — recog-
nise this distinction, namely, that there is a maneless
lion, and that it is a distinct breed from the other
species found in their land.

Here, in the Great Thirst Land, in the Kalahari
Desert, I believe that the lion attains greater magnitude,
in fact, greater perfection than he does anywhere else
in the world, except possibly in the A.tlas range of
mountains in North Africa. The reason of this is
obvious; to support himself he must hunt, and with a
due amount of exercise — just sufficient to keep his body
in a proper state of health — he can obtain a sufficiency
of animal food. The nature of the country makes this
so, while the climate on these table-lands is not ener-
vating, but the reverse, making exercise desirable and
pleasant.

The temperature during the day may not unusually
rise to 96°, but invariably at night, especially towards
the morning, descends to 70° or thereabouts. Thus the
lion does not lead a life of indolence here, necessity
compelling him to seek his food, and not to lie in
wait for it.

On the Nile and other bottom lands, where the
vegetation is extremely dense and game abundant, with
cover in such luxuriance that places of ambush can
everywhere be found, this animal suits himself to
circumstances, procures his meal, and sleeps till he
again feels the calls of hunger. Day after day is this
repeated till it becomes the experience of a lifetime.
But that is not the existence which develops muscle, or

410 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

produces activity, or engenders growth. No ; the lion
of the Great Thirst Land is as much the king of lions
as the lion is kin^ of beasts.

o

In the Atlas Mountains the black-maned lion is
invariably found, on the Congo and Niger the yellow-
maned, and here both. This is not to be wondered at
when we perceive that the country, although within the
tropics, is possessed of a sub-tropical climate.

The Southern Hemisphere is not like the Northern ;
the immense fields of ice that gird it, with almost a
total absence of land, cause the cold winds to penetrate
a great many degrees farther to the equator than they
would in the north.

The mountains opposite Cape Town, not higher
than the Grampian Hills in Scotland, and in about
34° S. latitude, I have seen covered with snow. Where
in similar elevation and similar latitude can you find
the same thing north of the tropic of Cancer ?

CHAPTEE XXXV.

A THUNDERSTORM IN THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

Ruby's first and only Disobedience— Having a Good Time— A Bare Chase — On the
Road again — A Storm brewing — Lightning — A Halt — Is the Wagon safe ? —
A Suggestion that clears the Wagon in the twinkling of an Eye — The Storm
subsides — The Face of Nature next Morning — I ride on to Soshong — The
Silver Tree — A Migration of Eeptiles — Bonty overtakes me— Near Kama's
Cattle-Kraals — Ugly Natives — Can't get Information as to my Way — Sus-
picious People — Must I sleep out ? — Mr. Mackenzie's " Herd."

THE first act of disobedience, in fact, the only one
perpetrated by Ruby, she was guilty of this afternoon,
immediately before trecking. I think, under all the
circumstances, the reader will say it was pardonable
when he hears what it actually was.

Since I became her owner, she had seen none of her
own race, and doubtless possessing a love for society,
when she was turned loose among the horses belonging
to my acquaintances, she went in, in American parlance,
for having a good time. All Sunday forenoon she scam-
pered about, taking the lead in all descriptions of mis-
chief, her example being closely followed by her confreres.
However, we were obliged to keep several of the
attendants on the watch around them, for fear any of
the disturbers of the peace of last night might be
lurking in the locality.

Although the horses were thus surrounded by a
cordon, the area of which could not exceed three or four
acres, there was among them such racing and chasing as

412 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

had not been seen since the days of Cannoby Lea ; and
when the hour for departure came, the happy creatures
seemed very indisposed to give up their sport. How-
ever, one after another was secured, and ultimately all
but Euby, and catch her we could not, although a dozen
persons were engaged in her pursuit ; yet she would not
go alone a hundred yards from the wagons, but coursed
round and round them, persistently refusing to be cornered
or surrounded. For over half an hour she practised this
game, and we almost despaired of success, when, doubt-
less thinking she had given enough trouble, and had
a sufficient lease of liberty, she surrendered at discre-
tion.

While we laughed at the fun, certainly the
Bechuanas did not, for the thorns were abundant, and
the afternoon fearfully hot ; in fact, such violent exercise
under the circumstances was much to be deprecated, and
their sour looks and angry expressions showed that they
thought so.

At length all the oxen were in the yoke ; each
driver, whip in hand, stood waiting for his master's
orders, while the foreloper, reim over his shoulder, after
the manner of his craft, sat upon the ground, almost
under the noses of the leading cattle. With a " God
bless you!" a firm shake of the hand, and many ex-
pressions of regard, we three Britons parted in this
distant and little -known part of the earth. Shall we
ever meet again? Possibly, but not probably; still,
the secretary of the book of futurity may have made
an entry in its pages that such is to be.

The whip again cracks, the driver shouts " Treck ! "
the treck-tow is made taut ; then " Amaga ! " is yelled,
and the ships of the desert are moving off in their

THUNDER, LIGHTNING, AND RAIN. 413

different directions. Before we had progressed a mile,
I noticed very dark clouds rising in the south-west, and
soon after became convinced that I heard distant thun-
der, the muttering of which was like the sound of wild
waves washing a far-off strand. A flash of vivid lurid
lightning, with forked, erratic course, now rushed down
to the earth, and the distant hills of Bamanwatto,
previously seen indistinctly in the distance, became
obscured.

I feared we were in for a storm, but did not wish
to outspan alone where I was, so ordered the guide to
hurry on the cattle, so as to be as far from the vley as
possible before we should be forced to halt ; for your
oxen must not treck in wet, else their shoulders will soon
become galled.

The bullocks had wonderfully freshened up with
their rest and an abundant supply of water, so stepped
out blithely.

But that grand and awe-inspiring voice of nature
became louder and louder, and the lightning blazed
forth as if the heavens would split in twain, yet no
rain had fallen upon us. An hour and a half thus
passed, and the whole landscape commenced to darken,
for the black, voluminous clouds almost kissed the earth,
and shut out as effectually as would a pall the faintest
glimmer of light.

At length there was a pause, and all nature seemed
hushed in awe, fearing to breathe, lest the sound of
respiration should hurry the end of the respite, when
the electric fluid, with a brilliancy such as I never saw
before, descended in a dozen forked lines into the neigh-
bouring velt ; and with it came the thunder, awful in
its deep intonation, grand in its power, terrifying in its

414 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

majesty ; and with it rain — not as we know it, but as if
the flood-gates of some great river had suddenly been
removed. Of course, for the time being, further pro-
gress was impossible, so I ordered a halt, and the patient
cattle stood still in their yokes, trembling with fear.
The next flash and the thunder came simultaneously,
and the oxen became so alarmed, and showed such
evident intention of wheeling round and rushing off
before the violent deluge, that in a moment I ran to the
leaders' heads and made the treck-tow fast to a tree, then,
hurrying back, put on the brake and drag. The wagon
was safe now, at least from being overturned; but was
it safe from the possibility of other accidents ? I
commenced to think it doubtful, for close by the light-
ning struck a large mimosa, and shivered it into frag-
ments. There was so much iron about the wagon, and
the treck-tow was of the same material, that I could
not help fearing for the results. Yet I dared not release
the cattle, for the moment the strap was removed from
their necks, I felt convinced they would rush away into
the gloom, far beyond pursuit. As soon as the rain
descended, my attendants had hurried under the wagon
for shelter, so that all that required doing had to be
done with my own hands ; even Umganey refused to
obey the orders of his master — in fact, they almost
appeared to be in a state of coma through fear.
Drenched? of course I was drenched, and ill beside.
Still, I had lots to do, and no one to do it ; so I had to
suffer the pelting storm, which beat down upon me with
unrelenting fury.

Again another blaze of lightning, and with it a
dreadful crash of thunder, suggestive of many deep and
serious things. At this moment the thought occurred

AFTER THE STORM. 415

to me, that supposing the wagon was struck, what a
tremendous explosion there would be if my store of
gunpowder became ignited! Such a casualty happening,
there could be no doubt that every human being, yes,
and animal, near or at present taking shelter under it
would be killed.

My fears I communicated to Umganey ; to the
others he said only three or four words, and in an
instant, as if by magic, all tumbled and scrambled out
from under the wagon and rushed for shelter to the
nearest tree. Taking with me the mare, I followed
their example. For over an hour the storm appeared to
stand still, in fact it looked as if for that space of time
we formed its vortex. It was an awe-inspiring period —
a period in which one feels that every breath may be his
last, every moment his final one of life. But why fear
death, particularly in such a form? It is but the sensa-
tion of an instant, and we have but returned to the clay
out of which we were moulded. It is not to die we
dread, but it is to die unprepared, and how few can say
they are ready to meet their God !

But the battle-field where waged the strife, where
the hottest part of the action had so long lasted, began
to sustain a lull, for the warring elements visibly com-
menced to move farther to the north. The rain by
degrees became lighter and lighter, till it gradually
ceased, and the face of the glorious sun was revealed in
all his grandeur, rapidly hurrying to submerge himself
behind the western horizon. How often, when alone in
the Great Thirst Land, when I have felt sad and dull,
when I have thought of one whom I loved, and who
played me false, of one who held my destiny in her
hands, and drove me to be a wanderer, how often have I

416 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

thought that I would like to follow the sun in his flight
till I sank with him beneath the western wave !

As I wished to put as much space as possible
between my cattle and the lions of Seruley Vley, we
trecked on till dark, but the roads now were fearfully
heavy, so we were compelled to outspan in an exceed-
ingly suspicious place, where trees were numerous and
water plentiful, all the requisites that attract thefe&da.

What between working hard myself and driving my
servants to do likewise, I soon had fuel enough to keep
three good fires going the entire night ; but several
times that I came out of my wagon to ascertain whether
they were being attended I found the fires almost out
and the boys sound asleep. An utter disregard for any
person's property but their own is, I fear, a charac-
teristic of the black population of South Africa.

In the morning what a change had come over all
nature ! The thirsty velt looked green, the trees were
resplendent in their verdant foliage, and animal life
seemed to have sprung into existence in every direction.
Grolden and emerald- winged birds fluttered about, turtle-
doves cooed their notes of love from each tree, and the
great woodpecker, one of the most resplendent of Africa's
birds, awoke the echoes with his industrious tap. Even
the jackals seemed to whisk their tails with additional
energy, and stein-buck and dikers, in ecstacy of mirth,
bounded through the surrounding brush.

Here I had made up my mind to leave the wagon,
and ride on to Soshong across the Bamanwatto
Hills, but I did not communicate my intention to my
people, as I wished to see them started and well under
weigh before I left. The distance was great, I think
over sixty miles, and I knew not the path ; but I had

A MIGRATION OF REPTILES. 417

confidence in myself, and still more confidence in the
endurance and will of my tried little mare. By this
course I should save about forty miles, and reach Mr.
Mackenzie's at least three days before the wagon.

I made my preparations quietly, filled my bag with
beltong and biscuit, my pocket with cartridges, and my
holsters with tinder, tobacco, &c., for it was quite as
probable as not that I should have to sleep out all night,
so that when we had advanced about two miles I told
Umganey that I was going, and that I held him answer-
able for everything until the wagon's arrival at Soshong
for which they were to make easy trecks. Pleased he
did not look, but he said nothing. So taking Euby in
hand I allowed her to choose her own pace, and cantered
on towards Bamanwatto, not drawing rein till eight or
nine miles were accomplished.

While alone I had ample time for thought. Months
I had dwelt in this wondrous land, and the wonderful
country I was leaving rose before me as it is, and as it
will be, for to the end of time it can never be altered,
unless by other than mortal agency, for man cannot
make a home, cultivate, and progress without — what this
land is almost destitute of — water.

On the higher ridges I traverse the silver-tree
(Leucodendron argenteum), familiar friend of Table
Mountain, makes its appearance, a proof that I am
getting either to higher altitudes or farther from the tro-
pics. A very curious sight caused me to halt for some
minutes. It was no less than a migration of those
extraordinary reptiles called by the French mille pieds.
The rain had caused birds and beasts in the most
miraculous manner to appear, and I suppose had a
similar effect on the reptiles. They were crossing the
B B

418 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

road eight or ten deep ; the advance-guard of this
regiment I could not see, and the rear-guard appeared
equally distant. Many of them were nearly a foot
long, and as thick as a child's wrist. Their skins I had
constantly found on the velt previously, bleached as
white as snow, and consequently looking at a distance
more like a shin-bone of some large mammal than any-
thing else, yet never for a moment had I believed that
they existed in such countless numbers. These are not
to be confounded Vith centipedes, for between the two
there is no resemblance, except that they both seem to
have more legs than they know what to do with.

But what is that patter, patter, coining rapidly over
the firm sand behind me ? A glance back reveals an old
familiar and dear face — it is Bonty, the only dog that
has come scathless through the battle. Dear old fellow,
he would not let me go alone ; possibly he thought he
might yet be of assistance ; and, faithful to the last, had
followed me up to give his aid, if called upon. Between
Bonty and the mare existed great affection. When the
latter has been feeding, probably half a mile from the
wagon, I have seen the former of his own accord go and
visit her, remain long enough to say, " How do you do ?
Feel all right to-day ? No suspicious characters about,"
and then return in the most matter-of-fact way. Bonty
was not by any means a gushing dog; but what he
said he really meant.

Again Ruby wants to be moving; gaily and easily
she covers the ground, so that at half-past eleven I am
at the dry river-bed, close to Kama's cattle kraals. After
some searching, I find a pool, the mare has a drink, a
roll in the sand, and half-an-hour's leave to pick up
some mouthfuls of grass. I had finished eating, when

LOOKING FOE INFORMATION. 419

three of the very ugliest natives came and sat before me.
They were Barotse, and hailed from beyond the Barotse,
a tributary of the Zambesi. The Diamond-fields were
their destination. When they return to their native
valley, how many miles they will have walked, and what
strange sights they will have to report to the primitive
people of their distant home !

Just as I was thinking of saddling, some of the
cattle-herds made their appearance. I had learnt that
there was a path from here to Soshong, but did not
know where to find it. Thus I tried to get the neces-
sary information from these people, but all was of no use.
Money and tobacco I offered in vain, they would not
tell me — no, not they ! So suspicious is the character
of these people.

However, I did not despair of finding it, so got in
the saddle again, and steered a due west course, occa-
sionally making a little to the south. Path crossed
path, and cattle-trail cattle-trail, but none seemed to lead
in the direction I wished. At length I got into a
deserted village, surrounded by numerous kraals, but
even from this there appeared to be no outlet. Still,
west was my direction, and I pursued it. No flocks, no
" herds," not a human being had been seen since I left the
cattle station. I was wondering over this total absence
of population, when, as I topped a ridge, I came upon a
number of women and girls, each carrying a load. As
soon as they saw me, down went their burdens, and off
they scampered. No information to be got from them,
that was certain. Another hour's riding brought me up
under the shadow of the hills. I looked for a passage
through them — first rode up one ravine, and then
another, but found myself on each occasion in a cul-de-sac.

BB 2

420 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

Matters began to look serious, for it was getting
late, so I took out my comforter — soother of every grief
and best of counsellors — my pipe, and called it into
confidence. The result was that I concluded that I was
still too far to the north. So into the saddle once
more. " Come, my little darling, and put your best
foot forward," I said to Euby ; and as fresh and elastic
in her gait as she had been in the morning, she struck
into her long, easy canter, nor showed signs of pulling
up till several miles were traversed. Here the ground
was exceedingly wild and rugged, with immense coppies
of broken rock rising from the hill- sides ; but a fairer
view soon opened on the sight — a large extended plain,
and a Kaffir village in the distance. " Come on, little
one, another effort," and my enduring, plucky mare,
game to the last, answered my call, and soon took me up
to the human habitations.

I asked for " Soshong," I asked for " water," yet
none of these people would answer. What could
they fear ? — or was it only indifference to a white man's
wants ? Disgusted, I turned my back on them, and
rode slowly away. A good camping-place for the night
it was now necessary to look for, and I was about
deciding on the merits of one, when a " herd " made his
appearance. He looked at me in amazement, and I
stared at him, as I thought I had seen him before, and
so I had — it was Mr. Mackenzie's man, the man who
had taken care of my oxen.

In half an hour more I was by the spring at the top
of the kloof. There I and my beasts had a long and
most refreshing drink. Thirst quenched, we push down
past the baboons' cave, and in a few minutes more the
good, kind missionary has me by the hand.

CHAPTER XXXVI.

I LEAVE SOSHONG AND KAMA.

My Wagon reaches Soshong — The poor Oxen glad to see me — Religious Service
at Mr. Mackenzie's — Thoughts suggested by it — The Pastor — The Wor-
shippers— My Team broken up and sold off — Among the Traders of Soshong —
Geordie — An Illicit Still— Consequence of trying to set up a sly Grog Shop —
A great Authority in Literature and Science — King Kama bids me Farewell—
A favourite Haunt of Lions — A mighty Hunter — Mr. Finnety — Some of his
Exploits — Seven Lions slain in twenty-four Hours — Artfulness of Lions-
Sense of Smell versus Sense of Sight — How the Lions bag their Victims-
Lion not to be feared by Day — Are they Dangerous ? — The Leopard's Charge.

IT was Saturday afternoon. I stood looking with aston-
ishment and wonder at the droves of cattle and gangs
of people passing to and fro between Soshong and the
well. Never before had I seen the traffic so great, or
nad I looked upon it with deeper interest, for was it not
civilisation again? Yes, it was so, compared at least
with the scenes I had so lately left. But while in a
brown study on the future of those who formed the
dramatis persona of the scene, the sharp crack of a whip
caught my ear. I had not the slightest thought that
it could be my wagon, for in the ordinary course of
events they would not reach Soshong till next day, and
I had left instructions, that for the sake of the cattle
they were not to hurry ; but as I gazed upon the coming
cortege, the shattered cover to the wagon, the laths that
supported it visible for their entire length, the strips of
torn canvas flying like streamers in the wind, I knew it

422 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

could be no other person's property. I walked down
towards the guide, who was acting as driver, and stood
upon the roadway. When the cattle came abreast of
me they halted, for I believe in me they recognised a
kind master. Poor old Swartland looked into my face,
Bluebert and Buffle did the same, and reckless, head-
strong Poonah gazed upon me more intreatingly than
the others — for why, they knew me as their master and
friend, and wished to exhibit how they had been over-
worked, and desired that they should have that sympathy
which can and ought to exist between the brute creation
and man.

My poor oxen, they were truly in a sad state, their
formerly glossy hides were dust-stained, their eyes
lacked lustre, and every movement of their limbs
appeared an exertion that they were unable to repeat.

In my heart how I blamed these people ! I could
have expressed my feelings in very strong language, but
it would not have done, so I said nothing, but fell in
with the truly mournful cavalcade, and marched up to
Mr. Mackenzie's house. What pleasure it afforded me
to release my poor toiling beasts was proved by my
actively assisting in doing so. After I left my employes
they had trecked night and day to reach as soon as
possible the capital of Bamanwatto.

Should I have left them ? is a question that may well
be asked, but I was very far from well, intermittently
bleeding at the nose and with a feverish pulse, for the
constant strain upon my mind, and my utter loneliness,
had worn me out.

It is Sunday, the hour about three P.M. I have been
resting in a wagon of Mr. Mackenzie's, when I become
conscious that it is time for me to turn out if I mean to

DIVINE WORSHIP IN SOSHONG. 423

attend worship; and what gives such relief to the weary in
heart, the worn-out in body, the depressed in spirits ?

I leave the wagon, and in front of the house find four
or five stalwart bronzed men assembled ; some are seated
on the terrace, others lounge upon the steps that lead
up to it. I join the group. Few words are spoken;
possibly nothing more than a bluff salute. Soon after
the worthy minister comes forth and summons us to
worship . With heavy tread and serious thoughts we enter
the room where it is intended we should listen to Divine
truths. Close to the table on which is laid the Word
of God sits Mrs. Mackenzie ; by her*side are her children,
bright, happy, and bonnie specimens of what we all were
in the days of childhood. How much those innocents
do to recall our purer and better days cannot be over-
estimated !

At length a psalm is sung, the gruff voice of the
wanderer mingles with the gentler cadence of the bonnie
bairns. The room receives the melody and hands it to
the kloof, and the wild inanimate rocks of Bechuana Land
echo in chorus the song addressed to the Christians'
Grod. Ay, far as we are from home, from the land of
our fathers, the country of our progenitors, still the
religion they believed, they taught, they fought for, is
echoing in a kloof in the South African desert.

Our pastor rises ; no flowery language is in his mouth,
but earnest truths that strike home to the heart, that
destroy the thought of argument, for all that hear believe
that they are incontrovertible.

Look, reader, into that little room, made neat and
attractive by a lady's skill, and see the one broad-
shouldered, stalwart adviser, his helpmate and pretty
children, joined by several browned and bronzed mature

424 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

men, who fear not aught in earth, dread not the desert
or its wild beasts, fear not the Great Thirst Land or its
hardships, all intently listening, all enjoying, all feeding
upon the precepts inculcated in the Holy Book.

The service is over, every one directs his steps to the
traders' quarters, but I venture to say that for the first
two hundred yards not one speaks, for he has listened
to, and inwardly digested, the solemn words of love,
kindness, and remembrance that have been expounded
in the hearing of all.

At many a sinner's parting scene I have been present,
and have felt it so much that I almost wished I had
been victim instead of spectator. Still I never remember
to have witnessed anything so impressive, so remindful
of the termination of our earthly career and of the Great
Hereafter as those little assemblies in Mr. Mackenzie's
house.

I have much to do, for here I must break up my
accessories. Mr. Mackenzie takes back Euby at the
price I paid for her ; two days after he was offered, I
believe, double the sum by a trader. May she go into
good and kind hands, is my earnest wish. If I could
have retained her I would have done so, but such was
impossible ; but Euby, darling, your memory is dear to
me, and ever will be till the end of life. Bonty and
poor broken-legged Bob were given to King Kama,
Portobello, alias Forty, was returned to Mr. Mackenzie,
who also purchased six of my bullocks.

Thus disencumbered, I determined with almost empty
wagon to cross that portion of the Kalahari that inter-
venes between Bamanwatto and Sechelle's. In conse-
quence I had my wagon taken down on the flat, where
I was detained several days in trying to obtain a

OH! GEORDIE BREWD A PECK 0' MAUT." 425

competent driver to guide me over this route, a distance
I should think of over one hundred and twenty miles,
every yard of which has loose sand inches over the felloes
of the wheels, and at this season of the year probably
only one drinking-place to he found over the whole
course.

While halting here I was thrown a great deal among
the traders, and whatever that class may be in other
parts of Africa, I can say for one and all of them at
Soshong that I considered they honoured me by their
society. One story I heard in Soshong, at the time and
even now I think so ludicrous, that I will relate it.

Geordie — a well-known character in Soshong — a
Highlander by birth, had a most unquestionable love
for ardent spirits ; not that this is peculiar in itself, for
I have known a few Scotchmen who loved whiskey, and
when whiskey was not forthcoming, who condescended
to drink brandy, even rum, and, at a pinch, would
not hesitate to have a rnutchkin of gin. Now
Greordie had travelled, and his ideas in consequence
became enlarged; so that when gin could not be
obtained — decent man ! — he made no complaint, but
took to eau-de-cologne. But, as in Soshong the
supply of this was not great, and he saw that his
libations were limited in supply, he, like a wise man,
and one gifted with forethought, began to consider how
the want was to be supplied. Day after day he studied
this, and at length he thought — happy thought!—
" Make it myself/' So he got a Kaffir pot, and built
it in over an oven, had a condenser made, and for a
worm substituted an old gun-barrel. Kaffir corn was
the grain he first employed his ingenuity upon. The
quantity was small, and the results commensurate.

426 THE GREAT TRIES T LAND.

Still, although it was only a taste, it was uncommonly
good, bit like a mamba, and warmed up to a very
pleasant degree the latent cockles of his heart.

So delighted was he with his success, that he at
once made a confidant of a leading trader, an intimate
friend. The two together got a stock of Kaffir corn,
fomented it, and intended going in for a regular whole-
sale business.

The fire again was lighted : fuel was not scarce, and
parsimony on such an occasion was deprecated.

So both Greordie and his friend sat round the still,
anxiously waiting for it to commence manufacturing
spirits. The delay was considerable, more than was
anticipated, and they began to feel anxious, when an
explosion took place, and neither knew who punched
him. In fact, the formation of our gallant little Celt's
legs, which are certainly peculiar, is attributed to this
accident. They had quite forgotten that a safety-valve
was necessary !

Another little anecdote. At Bamanwatto resided an
American, who in his younger days had been a sailor.
His birthplace was Salem, Mass., and he desired to be
considered a proficient on all subjects connected with
astronomy, navigation, &c. This great light of the
scientific world informed me one day that he had " shot
the sun," a common expression among navigators, which
means that they have taken an observation.

I asked him, " How did you do it ? "

" With a sextant, of course."

" But don't you think a chronometer, under such
circumstances, would be better ? " asked I.

" Yes ; but what could we do ? We had none of
the late inventions of science/'

FAREWELL TO SOSHONG. 427

Of course, this was a very hard case. " But why
did you not use your barometer?"

" I thought of that, but feared the people would not
understand it, so did not propose it."

Mr. Clark, our Nantucket sailor, thus figured as
an authority on literature and science, and so I left
him.

At Soshong, I bade a fond farewell to traders, and
particularly to my kind and dear friends, the mis-
sionaries, who had done more than I could ever have
expected to make me happy and comfortable during my
sojourn among them, and more than I shall ever be able
to repay.

It was a blistering hot day when I bade adieu to
good King Kama's qapital ; and when I did so, the
monarch himself presented me with a bunch of magni-
ficent blood ostrich-feathers ; and as I shook his soft,
delicate hand, I could not help thinking what a perfect
type of an aristocrat he was, even although he was
black.

Mashue I reached in thirty-two hours. The road
was fearfully heavy, up over the tires of the wheels at
every yard, and my faithful, patient bullocks far from
strong.

Here, a year or two ago, an incident took place
which is worth recording. This vley, Mashue, which
never is without water, is a favourite haunt of lions — in
fact, I may say, never without a troop, or, more pro-
perly, a family, frequenting it. It is passed once in
every two weeks by the Bechuanas that carry the mail
between Sechelle's and Soshong, and occasionally a
traveller finds his way along it ; for it is the shortest
route to the north-west corner of the Transvaal, but not

428 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

as a rule selected, owing to the depth of sand that has to
be traversed, and the sparsity of water.

It is a true type of the country that it margins, for
it possesses vegetation, with little or no water. It is
strange that evidences of numerous springs and vleys
that existed in former days are constantly to he found ;
and old Bechuanas have assured me that they can re-
member that they always contained water. But where
is it now ? Drank up by the thirsty soil.

Thus this route is seldom selected by the traveller
by wagon ; possibly more often by the equestrian.

There is a famous hunter, whose exploits, if they
were written, would rival those of Gordon Gumming.
He fears not the lion by day, and it is said, not even by
night. I have killed all sorts of game, and to the grizzly
bear of North America I give the palm for destructive
qualities and vitality, and not a few of them have fallen
before my rifle ; but I must say, if men constituted as
I am will follow them or lions into the bush, when
darkness shrouds the landscape, they must be possessed
of far more pluck, or much better powers of vision, than
myself.

To our story. The principal in it, Mr. Finnety,
was coming from Sechelle's to Bamanwatto. After the
manner of the country, he rode one horse and led the
other. At this vley he watered his animals, and
pursued his journey, doubtless hoping that night would
see him at the end of it. He had not gone more than
a mile beyond the water, when two lions sprang from
the bush on either side of the road, each seizing a horse.
The mount that he was on fell in a moment, and shot
him over its head ; but the hunter was on his feet in a
trivet. With the right barrel he killed the assailant of

MR. FINNETY, KILLER OF LIONS. 429

the horse he was riding, with the left the brute that
attacked the led horse. So quick was the whole done,
that neither of the nags was injured.

The exploits of Mr. Finnety would require a chroni-
cler, hut another of his performances was told me by
Mr. Leask, of Klerksdorp, who was with him at the
time, and should not be hid from the world. The night
previous, just as it was getting dark, he shot a large
white rhinoceros. As he believed his bullet had been
well placed, and that in consequence it was only a
matter of time for the game to fall, he deferred following
it till the morning.

At break of day he started alone to find his quarry,
and after going a mile or so found it dead, with three
lions around it. Mr. Finnety stalked up within a short
distance of them, and killed the trio, each requiring
only a single bullet.

Soon afterwards, having discovered elephant spoor,
he followed it up, and after noon overtook the herd, and
bowled over a couple of tuskers. Eetracing his steps 'to
regain his wagon, he had to pass by the dead rhinoceros,
and when doing so, found two more lions beside the
carcase. These he also killed.

In the morning, Mr. Finnety went out with his
people to secure the ivory of the elephants slain the
day before. On their route they passed a pool in a dry
river-bed, and by it were two large lions. He left his
people, and, unsupported, walked up to them and killed
them right and left. Thus seven lions fell before his
gun in little over twenty-four hours. I should like to
know who can show such a bag !

Although I confidently believe that any man with
ordinary courage may travel in Africa without the

430 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

slightest danger from lions, if he takes proper pre-
cautions, still, if you will shoot at them, and possibly in
doing so, wound them, look out, for you have a devil
incarnate to face, who will only be satisfied with your
heart's blood !

The artfulness of lions in effecting the capture of
their prey is very wonderful. The inferior races of
animals we accredit with instinct, yet deny them
reasoning powers. It requires a very acute dis-
crimination to tell where the one terminates and the
other begins ; nor have I found any one who would
instruct me on the subject.

It is a well-known fact that the sense of smell pro^
duces more fear in the animal creation than that of sight.
It may be accounted for in this way — when they see a
danger they can avoid it by the employment of such
means as the Creator has given them ; but when they
scent it, they cannot tell how close or far off it may be
with any degree of certainty.

However, this peculiarity the lion is well aware
of, and thus utilises it. I have said previously that
these animals nearly always hunt in troops, or parties,
of five, six, or seven. One of these is invariably a
mature male — not unfrequently an old one.

Night has set in, the weather is blustery, with
possibly rain, and all is dark as ink. The happy family
go forth. In their travels they discover a trader or
Boer outspanned. The cattle are tied up short to their
treck-tow, the end of which is made fast to a tree, and
the brake is tightly fastened on the hind wheels. The
marauders hold a consultation, and particularly note the
wind. Their plan of action is then brought into play.
The females and younger and more active males silently

LIONS' STRATAGEM.

steal off, and secrete themselves down wind, possibly a
hundred yards below the unsuspicious bullocks, who are
probably all lying down chewing the cud, with their
backs to the wind, and their keen eyes staring into the
darkness to leeward. The reason of this is that they do
not dread danger from behind, for their powers of scent
and hearing will give them ample warning ; while to
their vision alone can they trust for safety from the
attack of their stealthy foes in that direction.

At length the party have got to their lurking-places.
The old veteran goes to windward of the oxen, and
approaches fearlessly towards them, shaking his mane
out, that the breeze may carry as much as possible of his
effluvia to the intended victims.

When the first taint of this strikes their nostrils,
every bullock springs to his feet and faces the danger.
Closer and closer approaches the old lion, and the smell
of him becomes stronger and stronger. The bullocks
simultaneously make a rush ; they are, however, well
secured, and none succeed in breaking loose: But the
tawny, blood-thirsty marauder has not yet played his
trump-card. Up he approaches closer, again shakes his
mane and roars. That is the climax. If your reims
are not the best — and those made of buffalo hide are to
be preferred — the violence with which the cattle will
rush to avoid the threatening danger will enable them
to break loose, when the whole team will tear off down
wind, running almost into the jaws of their foes. In
such a stampede as this — in fact, nearly in all instances
— it is the flank of the victim that is first seized, and
several unite together to pull down the prey.

The lion unwounded is not to be feared by day,
unless when the sexes are together, or inadvertently you

432 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

should chance to come so close upon him when at rest,
that he thinks that retreat is impossible, and therefore
his only safety is in doing battle. The English sports-
man of average pluck need trouble his head therefore
very little about them, or treat the probability of danger
arising from them as extremely remote. They are, more-
over, a large object to aim at, and although doubtless
possessed of great vitality, do not have it to the same
extent as their beautifully-striped confreres of the East.
Again, their activity is not equal to that of the tiger,
or the grizzly bear of the Rocky Mountains. The charge
par excellence of all the felidce is that of the leopard.
Its velocity is amazing — beyond belief; and while in
the act does not present the easiest shot ; and its power
to do injury, although comparatively a small animal,
cannot be overrated.

CHAPTER XXXVII.

A VISIT TO KING SECHELLE.

A Wildebeest Hunt— Sultry Weather— My Spoorer — The Game in Sight— Blown
— Bring down a Cow — The Wounded Animal charges my Attendant —
Assegaied — A Clean Miss — The Wildebeest gone for Good — Spoor of Giraffe
and Quagga— " Kiloe " and " Petsi "—A Shot at Zebra— Success— A Look
at my Cattle— My new Ox jumped by a Leopard— Bolts with its Assailant
— I Pursue to no Purpose — Certain Fate of the Poor Brute — Lost — Spend
the Night *s out " — Light a Fire — Stung — Attacked by Bed Ants — A Miser-
able Night— I Find my Wagon— Crowds of Partridges and Turtle-doves —
Cruelty to Buffle— His Wretched End — The Lion-bird— Aw awe — King
Sechelle's Cattle— A Magnificent Roan— Mr. Williams, the Missionary-
King Sechelle— His great Grief — Defeat of his Troops — His Queen —
Sechelle's Town — An Hospitable Englishman.

HERE at Mashue the bullock so lately purchased,
and so badly treated by his companions, came to a most
untimely and unexpected end. Wildebeest spoor was
so fresh and abundant around us, that I resolved to
take my rifle and go in pursuit of them. A bushman
who lived in the neighbourhood was easily induced to
accompany me as spoorer. Trees were small and far
between, while the mapaney brush had given place to
the ivory-needle thorn, causing the surface of the
country, which was rolling, to be far from enlivening.
The sun was unusually hot, the air was oppressive, and
the distance seemed to quiver from the mirage effect of
the atmosphere. Still, these disagreeables were in my
favour as far as finding game was concerned, for the
wild animals, quite as much as man, dislike travelling
long distances under such uncomfortable circumstances,
c c

434 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

I found my attendant thoroughly conversant with his
present employment, for he tracked with such rapidity
and certainty that it was most difficult to keep up with
him. However, like an old experienced greyhound, who
refuses to pursue the tortuous winding of the hare,
but runs cunning, so did I. But even with this artifice
I could scarcely keep the hushman in sight, and if a
shot had presented itself, I was so much blown that
I doubt very much if I could have held my barrel
straight. At length, very much to my satisfaction, I
saw the spoorer stop, look back, and wave his hand.
Forward I pushed with increased rapidity, till I reached
him, when, motioning me to stoop, he took me up the
slope of a sand doon, over which, when I looked, I per-
ceived about thirty wildebeest feeding at a distance of
about four hundred yards. Deeming this too long a
shot to be certain of killing, I endeavoured by signs to
make my gillie understand that I wished to get closer
to the game. For some minutes my pantomimic actions
were not understood, but at length his expression told
me that I was comprehended, so we retraced our steps
for a short distance, then went across wind for several
hundred yards, and again approached the game, a small
sand-hill intervening between me and them, on reaching
the summit of which I found myself within two hundred
yards of several of the herd. I picked out a fat cow,
and took sight, but my hand trembled so that I hesitated
to fire. I removed the rifle from my shoulder, trusting
that in a few seconds I should recover from my shaki-
ness. After drawing a deep, full breath, I again took
sight, and fired ; the object of my aim dropped. Shoving
a fresh cartridge into the breech of my rifle, the bushman
and I ran down to despatch the victim. When within

HUNTING MADE UNEASY. 435

ten yards of the game, it made a violent struggle, and
regained its legs, and, certainly surprising me by the
activity it displayed, charged straight at my sable
attendant. "With wonderful agility he skipped on one
side, avoiding the onslaught, at the same moment bury-
ing his assegai deep in his assailant's flank. The wounded
animal did not return to the attack, but at almost an
incredible pace followed the route of its comrades. As
it passed me, about twenty-five yards off, I fired at its
flank, but I was so nervous, so excited, that I believe
I made a clean miss.

For more than an hour we spoored this animal, but
the only reward granted us for our trouble was the
recovery of the assegai, which, from the blood-marks on
the blade, must have penetrated several inches. Giving
up the pursuit of the wounded wildebeest as futile, we
turned our steps to the south, and crossed about half a
mile of country, where we came upon giraffe spoor. The
trail, which was very stale, told that they were only
three-quarter-grown animals. Travelling on farther to
the south, we crossed where quagga had just been. The
bushman at once took up this spoor, and went off at
such a rate of speed that in ten minutes it was a clear
case of bellows to mend with me. However, I
struggled along through the heavy sand, although I
was scarcely able to draw one leg after another, till,
through my slow progression, I lost sight of my spoorer
altogether. I was debating in my mind whether to go
on or turn back, when the bushman returned and the
following interesting conversation occurred between us.
When he was close to me, I said,

" Kiloe " (Bechuana for wagon), meaning I wished
to go to it.
cc 2

436 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

" Petsi," he answered, and pointed to the west, thus
indicating that zebras were close at hand.

Again I said " Kiloe," and he answered " Petsi," and
showed not the slightest inclination to give way to me.
Knowing that these fellows consider an extra ten miles
nothing if there is a prospect of getting a good feed, I
doubted much the propriety of following him ; but
when I commenced to look about, and became convinced
that without his aid I should never find my way home,
I made a virtue of necessity, and followed him. How-
ever, I was agreeably surprised — in twenty minutes he
brought me within shot of the game, and I bowled over
a fine fat mare. My attendant at once set to work, and
cut off the carcase as many of the choice morsels as he
could carry; so with a load of quite one hundred and
twenty pounds of reeking flesh on his back, we retraced
our steps homewards.

During our hunt we had at first travelled west, then
east, so we had not such a distance to traverse as might
have been imagined ; and my attendant went as direct
for the wagon as a bird would fly to it. Thus about
an hour before sunset we were in sight of my cattle.
Signalling to the bushman to go home with the meat, I
left him, and turned to the right, to have a look at
them. As usual, the little ox was almost a quarter of
a mile from the others. A " herd " might possibly have
rectified this, but as there were no habitations near, and
consequently no mealy fields, and the only water to be
found for miles was in the vicinity, there was no fear
of the oxen straying or doing mischief, so I had per-
mitted the foreloper to remain in camp. Well, I had a
look at and a talk with Swartland, Ackerman, Buffle,
and, in fact, with all, when I turned my steps towards

OX ATTACKED BY A LEOPARD. 437

the new purchase. I had decreased the distance be-
tween it and the other hullocks by one-half, when a
leopard sprung out of the bush, and in a couple of
bounds lit upon the poor creature's shoulders, seized it
with its teeth just in front of the withers, while the
claws of one fore -foot were deeply embedded in the neck,
those of the other in the back. So sudden was the shock,
that the ox fell upon his knees ; but in an instant after it
had gathered itself together and started off over the velt
at a pace that I had never seen bullock make before.
Oh that I had Ruby now with me ! — what would I
not have given for her services at that moment ? for I
little doubt that I should have been alongside the trea-
cherous, bloodthirsty assailant before it had been carried
by its prey half a mile ; but it was useless to regret the
want of help that it was impossible for me to obtain, so,
tired and exhausted as I was, I dragged myself along
after the fugitive. While the stricken beast fled, the
leopard was still on its back, and no doubt was making
such good use of its tusks as soon to cut into its victim's
spine. It was the more provoking as the cat appeared
anything but a large one — certainly it was not higher
than an ordinary- sized water- spaniel, although of course
much longer. Well, I followed the spoor of the ox long
after I lost sight of both, till I was reminded by darkness
setting in that it was time for me to return. Dis-
appointed that I could not render aid to my poor beast,
I retraced my steps. Night rapidly closed in the land-
scape, so I hurried on — as I supposed — in the direction
of the wagon. However, there was no moon, so after
quite a couple of hours' indefatigable tramping, I became
convinced that I was wandering. Yet, in spite of this
conviction, I believed confidently that I was near

438 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

home, so I ascended one sand-ridge and then another,
in the expectation of seeing the illumination of the sky
caused by the wagon-fires, but look in what direction I
liked, such was not to be perceived. At length I gave
the search up as a bad job, and sought for a dead or
fallen mimosa. After about an hour's futile exertion, I
discovered the latter, made a fire, and laid down with
the hope of sleeping; but in this I was disappointed,
for soon after trying to seek repose, I was stung by a
scorpion on the ankle, which the flames had doubtlessly
driven irate from its sanctuary in the fallen tree. This
was bad enough, but here my torture did not end, for I
was assailed by red ants in such numbers, that it was
impossible longer to remain lying on the ground. In
consequence I got up, piled more wood on the fire, and
went so far as to consider myself the most unfortunate
man on the face of the earth. However, no wild
animals came near me. In the distance I heard several
hyaenas wail, and numerous jackals laugh, but they
were a long way off, possibly holding carnival over the
body of my slaughtered ox. When day broke I picked
myself up, and with anything but feelings of regret left
my uncomfortable bivouac. When the sun rose I walked
towards it, and in a short time found my own and the
bushman's spoor of yesterday when in pursuit of the
wildebeest. Taking the back trail, soon after I observed
a line of white smoke perpendicularly ascending to
the clouds. As I was not aware that any of the
natives resided near here, I concluded that it must be
from the fires at my wagon. In this surmise I was
correct, so reached my belongings by eight o'clock,
when I found that Umganey and the driver had gone
in pursuit of me. However, they returned about

INHUMAN CRUELTY OF MY BOYS. 439

noon, having come across my spoor and tracked me
home.

I have never in my life seen such quantities of
Namaqua partridges as frequent this vley — morning and
evening they come and go in almost uninterrupted flocks
of thousands; while turtle-doves in very nearly equal
numbers are also visitors. "With a shot-gun any person
might have killed hundreds of these beautiful birds, for
they were so tame that they would barely clear my
head by more than a few feet, so anxious were they to
satisfy their thirst.

From here we made two trecks through a country
more densely wooded than any I had lately passed. As
it got dark, when still half a mile from water, one of my
oxen, big Buffle, lay down, and would not rise. Be-
lieving that a short rest would again put him on his
legs, I went forward to examine the trail. When I
returned — possibly after an absence of half an hour — a
queer smell, as of burnt meat, pervaded the neighbour-
hood. This I discovered was caused by the cruel, un-
feeling boys having lit a fire under the poor ox to make
him get up. Such torture was of no avail — the poor
creature could not get up, and consequently had to
submit to the inhuman device of its persecutors. Thus
it had to be left behind, with the hope that it might be
able to be driven on in the morning. During the night
the hyaenas and jackals made a great disturbance. As
the quarter whence their voices came was that in which
poor old Buffle lay, I surmised, and truly, that I
should never see him again alive. When I returned at
sunrise to bring him up, alas ! nought remained but a
very imperfect skeleton to point out where he had lain
down.

440 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

The following evening, soon after sunset, a new
moon was seen rising over the neighbouring hills. Its
crescent was not larger than a thread, but that was quite
sufficient to cause the boys to make a night of it, so
they did not sleep, and kept me from doing so by
their continued lullalooing and clapping of hands.

Next day we trecked through very heavy sand,
between two ranges of hills. The slopes were covered
with trees, and the scenery pretty, but monotonous.
At eleven a.m. we reached the vley, where we expected
to find water, but it was dry. Nevertheless, we out-
spanned and rested for three hours. While eating
breakfast one of the crested slate -coloured birds always
associated by the natives with lions perched on a
neighbouring tree, and incessantly kept uttering its
discordant notes — aw awe. As I knew no lions were
near, and that he was fibbing to try and frighten us, I
took up my Martini-Henry and fired. The distance
was too great to think I would hit the object of my
aim, but the gun was true, and my sight more correct
than anticipated, for the unfortunate fell to the ground,
with its body shattered into pulp.

Next morning about ten o'clock we reached a large
vley. All, or at least a large proportion of old King
Sechelle's cattle were gathered here, for the Kaminyani
had been successful in their war against him, and had
even dared to change their tactics from those of defence
to those of aggression. Here the herds were supposed
to be safe, and a splendid troop they were, numbering I
should suppose several thousand. While asleep under
my wagon, a trader of the name of Solomon, accompanied
by an after-rider, arrived. He was en route to Eaman-
watto. The horse he rode was a magnificent roan — in

KING SECHELLE. 441

fact, one of the best-looking nags I had seen in the
country. The purchaser being very proud of it, and
wishing to show me its paces, attempted to put it
through them, when it bucked him over its head. For-
tunately no injury was done to the rider.

We trecked that afternoon and the next morning,
when having arrived at the outskirts of the gardens that
for miles surround Sechelle's town, I walked on, and
arrived at Mr. Taylor's store in time to be invited to
dine with him. He has lately married an English lady,
whose sister resides with her. Their life must be truly
dull and monotonous.

Mr. Williams, the missionary stationed here, showed
me much kindness and attention. He had heard from
Bamanwatto of my coming, and insisted on my making
his house my home. What I say now for one, I say for
all, that a kinder, more hard-working, and self-denying
people than the missionaries of the distant interior of
South Africa I never became acquainted with.

At Mr. Taylor's I slept, for I had met him first, and
he had pressed upon me his hospitality, which I con-
tinued to enjoy during the remainder of my sojourn
here.

King Sechelle called upon me the day after my
arrival. He is a remarkably handsome, stout man,
about sixty-five years of age. But for his colour — a dark
brown — he more resembles a good representative of the
Anglo-Saxon than a Bechuana. He is at present in
great grief, for his troops, led by his son, have been
repulsed, and the successful enemy have made numerous
incursions into his territories, where they have com-
mitted fearful barbarities. -The last tidings of a defeat
were brought him when holding counsel in his kotla.

442 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

As soon as he heard the unwelcome news, he is said to
have thrown off his outer garments, and in the most
violent language accused his people of having become
women, of having forgotten the deeds of their fathers,
and of having descended to such a degree that only
entitled them to he slaves. This peroration he con-
cluded by a regret that he was born so long ago, that
he was now unable to take command of his troops in
person.

The day after Sechelle's visit I returned it, and
was introduced to his queen. She is also exceedingly
pleasing in appearance and manner, although quite as
stout as her husband. Their residence is a large, well-
built cottage, with a wide verandah, surrounded by a
compound of about an acre and a half. The interior of
their dwelling was clean, but I could not say tidy, for
there were musical boxes, books, telescopes, wind instru-
ments, guns, swords, and articles of furniture and cloth-
ing huddled together in one indistinguishable mass.

Before departing, the old king presented me with a
beautiful caross, and other curiosities, and came down at
the hour of my leaving, accompanied by hospitable and
kind-hearted Mr. Williams and Mr. Taylor, to see me
start. The natural position of Sechelle's village would
be very strong if it were not commanded by an
adjoining height, but in case of an attack it would
doubtless be fortified. After a rest here of four days
we started at three o'clock in the afternoon of the fifth,
our numbers being further reduced by a man, an ox,
and a dog. "We trecked all night, and reached water
at eight o'clock in the morning. The pasture around
this halting-place was excellent and abundant, so I did
not inspan till late the next afternoon. Here I met

A PRESENT OF VEGETABLES. 443

the Englishman who had treated me so hospitably
at Lieufontein. His heart was as generous as ever, for
he gave me an immense supply of vegetables, at the
same time expressing numerous regrets that he was not
journeying in the same direction as myself. When he
started for Sechelle's, I trecked to the south. Shall I
ever meet this genial, kind soul again ? It is not
impossible, but very improbable. Whether or not, I
wish him happiness and prosperity.

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

EXPERIENCES AT THE DIGGINGS.

A Copper Hill — Refreshing Dip — Poetry not in my Line — Guinea Fowls innu-
merable— Shooting a Leopard — Applauded by Monkeys — Ruined Huts —
Gifts that didn't Pay — At Moiloes again — Clear of the Great Thirst Land —
At Zeerust again — Mr. Wisbeach' s Kindness — At Klerksdorp again — Parting
with Umganey — Faithful to the End — Attacked by a Deserter — Arrival at
Kimberly — Jarvey No. 1 won't take his Fare — Jarvey No. 2 does — The
Cabman an old Friend — High-class of Emigrants — Splendid Material for a
Cavalry Regiment — Mr. Balfour — Curious Coincidence — Mr. Balfour's Letter
— Documentary Evidence touching the Death of the Basuto Pony and an
Ox.

NEXT day we failed to find water where water was
expected, so we made but a short halt. Towards sun-
set we trecked down the side of a hill. This incline
was a mass of pure copper. Even the loose rubble that
lay upon it was the same ; and when the wheels grazed
it, so soft was the metal that they sliced off pieces an
inch or more in length, and quite a quarter of an inch
thick.

About ten in the afternoon on the second day we
reached Aspho (vulture) fontein; here we found an
abundant supply of beautiful clear water, and I enjoyed
the luxury of a bath — not one of your cat's-wash kind
of affairs that for so long I have had to put up with,
but a regular swim in eight or nine feet of water. This
stream passes through a deeply-wooded kloof. The
scene recalled a poem written before I found out that

APPLAUDED By BABOONS. 445

versification was not my forte ; still, here it is — at least,
a line or two : —

" Where the bare slopes of rocks converging fell
On either hand into a craggy cleft,
And the free, fervid sun flowed down the dell,"

and so on. Well, I fhad scarcely got dressed when
Umganey came to inform me that plenty guinea-fowls
were to be had, so I went and sought them. In all
my previous experience I never found these birds so
abundant — they were not in millions, as an American
friend said the hornets were that sallied out upon him,
but without exaggeration they were in thousands.
Having only a rifle, and still being very shaky, I fired
at least thirty shots for the five or six I killed ; and
every time the report echoed up the kloof, a troop of
baboons chattered, as if in applause at the row I was so
unsatisfactorily making.

Among some rocks I sat down to have a look at my
claqueurs. As people go they were not a bad specimen
of their race. But what on earth is the matter ? there
they are scampering up the dell to the most inaccess-
ible crags. I have not alarmed them — I doubt if I
could; but something has — what is it? Looking
behind a point of rock I see a creature taking stock
of me — a pair of hazel eyes and two prick ears. They
are real bonnie to look at, while the expression of
face is so earnest. I raise my Martini-Henry, and
take a steady shot. I have not much to fire at — less
than the size of my hand, still the missile speeds
straight, and the winsome beast, with all his wondrous
spots and markings, is a corpse. And would you
believe it? — of course you do not — the baboons chat-

446 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

tered applause, for they knew just as well as I did
that their enemy had been slain.

From here we trecked through the ruins of several
deserted villages, but war had driven away the inhabi-
tants, and time had destroyed their dwellings. What
once were their fields are now desolate wastes ; what
once were their houses are a home for the hyaena,
the bat, or, worse still, the hideous, bloated reptile.

After a long day's treck we arrived at night beside
a large pond, formed by banking up the course of a
rivulet. Several of the inhabitants came out to welcome
me ; to my surprise many spoke English. Shortly
after dark I was sent a present of meat and vegetables,
but, incredible as it may appear, so many came to see
me eat and assist me in the performance of so necessary
and not uncommon a duty, that I discovered that these
presents were far from a paying game.

Next morning at break of day I got the cattle in,
and when I took them out of the yoke I was in front of
the blue gum-trees before Mr. Jansen's house at Moiloes.
Thus ends my wandering in the Kalahari desert, for
here I leave it and enter the Transvaal. The agony
that my poor cattle, my boys, and I had endured in the
Great Thirst Land was now practically at an end. Our
sufferings had been intense, but we had come, thank
God, safely — or at any rate tolerably so — through it
all. Truly may that region be called the Thirst, nay
the Great Thirst, Land, for there, more than in any
other country I have ever visited or travelled in, are
unfortunate animals and miserable natives subjected to
periodical visits of excruciating scourges ; and the
tremendous hardship is that no amount of experience
can possibly avail to prevent the recurrence of the

FRIENDS IN NEED ARE FRIENDS INDEED. 447

unmitigated evils of hunger and thirst — which are, of
all the pangs to man, and child, and beast, the worst.
The good missionary, who distinctly told me that he
never expected to see me return, was the essence of
hospitality ; but I was anxious to get to Zeerust, for
there I knew were letters awaiting me, so I trecked
with the wagon till about half the distance was
traversed, when to my disgust I discovered that the tire
of one of my hind wheels was all but off. Thus I had
again to turn wagon-wright, remove the wheel and
have it there and then pegged, which operation is
accomplished by driving wedges of wood between the
tire and felloe. When again ready for the road I
visited an adjoining farm-house, hired a horse, and
galloped into Zeerust, very much to the surprise of the
inhabitants, who were under the impression that I had
died some time back, a report to that effect having been
spread through the community about two months
before.

Again I visited the little church, again I dined
with Mr. Eeed, and as I trecked south I stopped at
Jacobsdal. Here that dear, kind-hearted gentleman,
Mr. George Wisbeach, met me. He had left Baman-
watto the day after I did ; but although he had the
longer route to traverse — that, namely, by Crocodile
river — he had beaten me in the treck by two days.

"Well, it is no harm telling it, but I was very hard
up, and could not get money till I got to Klerksdorp.
Accordingly I had been prevented from laying in a
stock of beef for myself and boys. Wisbeach somehow
or other found this out, so he took me on the velt
where his oxen pastured, and shot the fattest for my
use. Nearly the whole world knows me now; and

448 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

although I have met with great kindness wherever I
have travelled, I cannot recall one instance of dis-
interested generosity that I felt more keenly than that
of George Wisbeach.

Three days took me to Leichtberg. There I took
the post-cart to Klerksdorp, leaving the wagon to
follow, for my new driver was a careful, steady man.
About two o'clock of a bitterly cold morning I took my
seat beside the driver, and as we rattled over the velt I
heard for the last time the mournful notes of the hyaena,
sounds that had for long been familiar to me as the
merry laugh of children within the pale of civilisation.
At three in the afternoon we halted at Hartebeestfon-
tein. Mr. Doherty, the proprietor of one of the stores,
insisted on my dining with him, and a grand dinner
he gave out of courtesy to me and all my fellow-pas-
sengers. At sunset I was again in the cart, and at
half -past nine was once more the guest of Mr. Leask.
Never appeared people more astonished than they
seemed when I walked in among them, for they, as
well as the people in Marico, believed that I had been
killed. Even in this uninhabited land, how rapidly
does Dame Eumour flit about !

Klerksdorp is situated on a river more Scottish than
African in appearance ; while behind the village rises a
rugged stretch of hills, very irregular in outline, and
reaching to an elevation of about 1,000 feet. After
traversing this ridge, the open velt lies before the
traveller, but a totally different velt from that which
he finds about Marico, for here all is grass, not a stick
or shrub being found on the surface of the plain — in
fact, so destitute is it of larger vegetation, that, as in
the big plains between the Drackenberg and Vaal river,

PARTING FROM UMGANEY. 440

no other fuel can be found than the dried droppings of
cattle. It is fortunate that lions do not abound where
the means of firing is so scarce. If they did, they
would certainly have it nearly all their own way.

Bidding my kind friends at Klerksdorp adieu, in
thirty-six hours I reached Bloomhoff, for I had sold my
wagon and cattle to Mr. Leask. But before I jump
over that distance, let me say a word about my parting
with Umganey. When I paid him, Mr. Leask ex-
plained to him that I was going back to my own home,
and offered him employment, at four pounds a month, to
take charge of his cattle, and what do you think the
fellow said? " I have never had but one bass, and while
I live I will serve no other." For the day or two
before I started he hovered round me — even when in
my bedroom he would steal in and fill my pipes, or
curl himself up in one of the carosses, and although
apparently asleep, I could note the big black eyes
watching me. At length the hour for getting in the
post-cart came. My baggage I had seen safely stowed
away, and in another moment I would have taken my
seat, when the poor fellow threw himself on the ground
and placed my foot on his head, then rising, rushed off
up the hill-side. Dear faithful Umganey, that was the
last I saw of him. One darling idea he seemed to
entertain was that I would go back with him to the
Umphelosi, and live among his people. He promised
me if I did so, that I should be a great chief. How
could the poor half-starved wanderer whom I had
picked up at Umganey promise so much ? Yet Kama
told me that he was a chief's son. Whether so or not,
he had as noble a heart as ever beat in human breast.

The second day from Klerksdorp we reached Bloom-
D D

450 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

lioff, a miserable village of a dozen houses. Here I
was attacked by a fellow who was a deserter from the
36th Eegiment. He was assisted by three or four other
scoundrels. Well, they between them pommelled me into
a cocked-hat (any decent boy at home could have done
so then), drove the post-cart off without me, and stole
my watch, chain, and money, thus leaving me 150
miles to trudge on foot, without food, and all the
surrounding coppies covered with snow; but I did it.
Exhausted, footsore, and dirty, I entered Kimberly just
as people were leaving afternoon service on Sunday.
All stared at me and looked surprised. At this I could
not be astonished, for when had such a tatterdemalion
been seen before ? However, a cab passed : I hailed it.
Jarvey asked me politely to show him the colour of my
money. As I was unable to do this, he looked for
another fare.

A second cab I called. " You bees a rummy look-
ing cove to ride in a conve'ance," said he ; and I agreed
with him there and then. " Take me to the ' Car-
narvon/ at Dutoitspan." A quarter of an hour landed
me at that establishment, but, would you believe it,
they would not admit me till I gave my name ! As
soon as their request was complied with, clothes, food,
wine, tobacco were all forthcoming. The cabby looked
at me now with even more surprise. He had a glass
of champagne at my expense, then got into his seat,
meditatively pulled on his gloves, slowly took the reins
in his hand, and said sotto voce, "Who would have
thought it!"

That cabman was in the habit of coming to see me
daily after this little episode, and more than that, he
blacked my boots unbidden, and brushed my clothes.

GENTLEMEN DIGGERS. 451

He had once been a private in the llth Hussars, and
few better or kinder hearts ever beat under a shell-
jacket or wore a sabre.

But in alluding to soldiers, I would say a word or
two about them. I believe there is no place an the
world where such splendid specimens of the Briton are
to be found as at the Diamond Fields. The majority
are not only the sons of gentlemen, but gentlemen
by education. The reason that such a high type of
emigrant should be found there doubtlessly is, that it
is a very expensive journey from England. If I had
to raise a couple of cavalry regiments, there I would
certainly go for recruits. Look across the way towards
the Post Office and note that group, all young, all good-
looking ; and you can safely feel assured that the grass
country of the Midland Counties knows them well,
that its hedges, woods, and copses have echoed with
their stirring, soul-inspiring " Tally-ho ! " That broad-
shouldered man with the heavy moustache and good-
natured expression of countenance, what a splendid
heavy dragoon he would make ! The other conversing
so animatedly with him, light enough still to ride under
eleven stone, would he not make the most perfect of
Hussars or Lancers ? There is the material such as no
other land can produce, there is the quality, yet we do
not know how to make use of it. Although many of
these splendid specimens of the genus homo have now
to work hard, to toil with hands that never previously
were acquainted with anything harder than a kid glove,
still they look in no way dispirited, but laugh at the
last don mot, or narrate their latest escapade with as
much gusto as a year or two before they may probably
have done on the porch of their club in Pall Mall, or
D D 2

452 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

strolling up the gentle incline of St. James's Street.
"But will they a' come back again? "and, doubtless,
may be added, " And mithers grat as they marched

awaV

I met many friends and received the offer of much
hospitality when at the Fields, but from the state of my
health I was compelled to consider myself an invalid.
In consequence of the rumour of my illness, an Episco-
palian clergyman called upon me. He was a most
charming person, very young, very earnest, and a de-
lightful conversationalist. During my intercourse with
him quite a little episode took place — so improbable
that I would fail to tell it if I could not present the
testimony of the following letter. It occurred in this
way. Mr. Balfour (for I do not hesitate to give his
name, when what I narrate only proves how earnest,
sincere, and self-denying he is in his labours) casually
inquired of me if, in all my trials and struggles, escapes
from death, where life was all but sacrificed, I ever felt
serious ?

" Yes," I replied ; " I do sometimes."

"When, and where ?" were his further queries.

"I will tell you — I don't mind doing so to you,
but it is a subject I usually taboo. In one of the
Midland Counties of England there is a little church,
in my opinion the most perfect place of worship I
ever entered. Of a calm summer evening, when all
nature lies in repose, when the husbandman plods home-
wards from his toil, and the happy-hearted children,
released from school, laugh and sing, and scamper
about in excess of enjoyment, I used to mount my
horse (for it was some miles off) and ride to this holy
place, and there seek and receive comfort for my past

ME. BALFOUR'S LETTER. 453

offences. I never spoke to its pastor in my life, still
knew him well by appearance, but it was the place and
its surroundings that ever invited me to remember that
there was a Hereafter to follow the present life."

The day for my departure arrived. I was about to
take my seat on the box of Messrs. Cobb and Co.'s
coach, when Mr. Balfour came up to bid me good-bye,
at the same time handing me a letter, which I was
not to read till some miles of my journey had been
accomplished. This I faithfully promised and strictly
adhered to.

The letter ran thus : —

" DUTOITSPAN,

" GRIQUALAND WEST,

"June 21*$, 1876.

" DEAR CAPT. GILLMORE. — I did not wish to disturb people last
night, so came away without bidding you good-bye. I hope you will
have a prosperous journey and find your belongings well at home.
Mind you go to that little church again. I am very fond of the
place, and it was Mr. Skinner who prepared me for Confirmation and
for Holy Communion. When I was reading the 104th Psalm last
night it made me think of you, and the lions, and the birds, <fec.
Dwelling on the beauties of the natural world seems to raise one's
thoughts to Him who made these things. Surely it is worth while
giving one's heart to Him, fighting against our evil passions and
wicked thoughts with the strength we may get from Him, when we
see how great and beautiful He is, and think what He may have in
store for us. Forgive me for writing in this strain. I do long that
" men would praise the Lord for His goodness " and serve Him
faithfully. If we are truly sorry for our sins He will forgive us;
if we give ourselves up to His holy teachings He can make our
characters more beautiful than the plumage of those lovely birds, for
He knows where we have gone wrong, and being our Maker, can put
us right, only we must work with Him and bravely put away all that
displeases Him. If you are not angry with me by this time write

454 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

me a line from the Cape or Grahamstown. If you are, I am sorry,
and ask yon to forgive my rashness as a stranger writing to you on

these matters. Good-bye.

"Yours faithfully,

" FRANCIS BALFOUR.
" Many thanks for your winnings ! "

The birds alluded to were eight new species of bee-
eater and honey-birds collected by myself, and none of
which had ever been classified by any naturalist. The
last passage, " Many thanks for your winnings," referred
to my giving to the local charity some pounds I won
at whist. For although an inveterate bad gamester,
and without the slightest love for gambling, I almost
invariably win when induced to become a member of
a card- party.

Two other documents I will also append. They
give the reader, and more especially the future traveller,
some idea of the kind of certificate he must be armed
with to recover the price of an ox or horse guaranteed
by the vendor against lung or horse sickness.

" BAMANGWATO,

" 8^ May, 1876.

" This is to certify that a bay horse, with black points, died on
Crocodile River, on the 5th March, of horse-sickness, Spencer
Drake and Fred. Drake having been present at the time. Said horse
the property of Captain Gillmore.

" (Signed) GEO. GORDON."

" BAMANGWATO,

"Sth May, 1876.

" This is to certify that a dark brown ox died of lung-sickness, on
the 7th March, at Crocodile River. Said ox the property of Captain
Gillmore, and purchased in Zeerust of Oswald Bagger.

"(Signed) GEO. GORDON."

DOCUMENT-ART EVIDENCE. 455

The first-mentioned was my faithful Basuto pony,
that had carried me so well from Natal ; the latter one
of the oxen purchased from the " Count," alias " Uncle,"
the signer being the good, kind-hearted little Scot who
got blown up, or down, if you like it, when trying to
distil whiskey.

CHAPTER XXXIX.

THE DIAMOND-FIELDS HOMEWARD BOUND.

A fierce Sun — The Diggers— Their Homes — The Pans — The Machinery — The
Labourers — How they will work for the Musket, Great-Coat, and Blanket —
Distance from their Home — Effects of the Diamond-Fields — Kimberly —
The Buying and Selling of Diamonds — I leave Dutoitspan — The Coach —
Drivers — German and English Jews — Their Resolution touching Liquor —
How they keep it — Other Passengers — Unamiable Englishman — Affable
Wife— One-legged Boer— Blessed Baby — Hints to Travellers about Babies —
Handsomest Girl in the District — Orange River — In Old Colony again —
Boers and Kaffirs — Splendid Qualities of the Latter — On board Ship — Holly
again— The last of " the Red, White and Blue " — The Ship's Company — The
Honourable Member for Matabele — Finis.

BEFORE leaving the Fields, a short description of the two
celebrated diamond-diggings of Dutoitspan and Kim-
berly may be interesting to the reader. Imagine an im-
mense undulating sandy plain, very sparsely covered with
grass, with the horizon here and there interrupted with
sterile hills, while nearer at hand occasional coppies are
to be found. A quivering glow makes distant objects
appear to tremble, and exaggerates them to many times
their proper size ; while the sun from a cloudless sky
pours down its powerful rays upon the landscape, for
not a tree to afford shelter is to be found. By Jove,
and what a sun it is ! so cruel, so uncompromising, so
powerful in its strength ! such a sun as the mariner in
tropical seas would dread to encounter even more than
death, if adrift in an open boat or upon a raft. No
language can describe the luminary as seen here, no

LIFE AT THE DIAMOND-FIELDS. 457

imagination can grasp the picture. And it is here that
men come, men of education, men of good family, to
sweat and toil, hour after hour, and day after day, fear
and hope racking their bosoms in pieces, to gain suffi-
cient of the world's wealth, that when they turn their
steps homewards, and reach the thrice blessed land of
their birth, they may be able to support an aged
mother, devoted sister, or possibly one dearer than even
the closest of relatives.

The population live in tents, or huts of wood or
corrugated iron. Not unfrequently the same dwelling
may be seen composed of both materials. Ingenuity
and management have made some of these primitive
dwellings not uncomfortable. This is more particularly
to be noted when a wife is at the head of the establish-
ment, for ladies have found their way out here as well
as to less inaccessible parts of the earth. The want of
water prevents almost any attempt at gardening, and
how much would a few flowers do to relieve the eye-
exhausting monotony ! But I learnt on my visit that,
for ten months, not a shower had fallen upon this sun-
baked land, so that water had risen to the enormous
price of three shillings a bucket.

The pans or diggings from which the diamonds are
procured are nothing more or less than enormous holes.
Kimberly mine, the larger of the two, I should imagine
between three or four hundred feet deep, the sides being
at about an angle of forty-five degrees, while the dis-
tance across the top cannot be less than three hundred
yards. Along the outer edge are innumerable wind-
lasses, some worked by hand, some by horse-power,
and others by steam, from each of which descend wire
ropes to the respective claims. On these ropes the

458 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

buckets that bring to the surface the debris in which
the gems are found, ascend, making the sides and top
of the pit look like a deserted rabbit or badger earth,
over the entrance to which an industrious spider has
made a web.

Nearly all the labourers are black, a large portion
coming from the tributaries of the Zambesi, or the
adjoining countries beyond, supervised by a white or
Hottentot overseer, w^hose duty it is to see that none
of the stones are purloined. No easy task, you may be
sure, among such a heterogeneous assembly. Side
by side may be seen labouring Matabele, Macalaca,
Mashoona, Barotse, and Bechuana, for all tribal quar-
rels, feuds, and family discords are thrown aside here,
that each workman may the sooner obtain the coveted
musket, great -coat, and blanket, and thus be able to
return at an early date to his native land. To accom-
plish this a thousand, possibly more, miles have to be
traversed. Still undaunted, they will persistently walk
day after day, from night till morning, endure heat,
thirst, and hunger, liable to be attacked by savage men
and more savage beasts, and consider they have been
amply rewarded if they succeed in taking their valuables
home with them.

The Diamond-Fields have done much to civilise
South Africa, and day by day are doing more. But
for them the heathen in their benighted regions would
be as ignorant of civilisation and our race as they were
in the days of David Livingstone. What is to be the
ultimate result it is not easy to prophesy, yet it can
scarcely fail to be otherwise than beneficial.

The principal thoroughfares in Kimbeiiy, where the
shops, stores, banks, taverns, and hotels are situated,

COBB & CO:S COACH. 459

are well worthy of a visit, for there are few more
crowded haunts of trade anywhere to be found. All
is bustle and excitement; while the roads are fairly
blocked with wagons and carts of every shape and size,
for supplies have to be brought from a distance, and
there are nearly fifty thousand souls that have to be
fed.

No person is allowed to buy or sell diamonds with-
out a Government permit. A breach of this law is
punishable by imprisonment, fine, or even by flogging.
It is absolutely necessary in such a community to have
severe laws enacted, and power to enforce punishment
in case of an infringement of them ; but the population
have heretofore proved themselves law-abiding, loyal
citizens, so no collisions have occurred between the
authorities and the people. Another reason, and one I
have mentioned before, is that no place was ever pre-
viously settled by so respectable a class of emigrants or
colonists.

The morning was bright and clear when I took my
seat between the two drivers on the box of Cobb and
Co.'s coa.ch at Dutoitspan. For this part of the world
not one Jehu is wanted, but a pair, the one on the nigh
side handling the ribbons, the other on the off wielding
the great cumbersome whip. The conveyance is an
immense thing, seating nine inside and five passengers
outside. In appearance it much resembles one of those
swinging, jolting Noah's-ark affairs that in Boston and
New York transfer passengers from the steamboats and
trains to the hotels. However, they are as strong as
wood and iron can be put together, and if not crowded
are very comfortable. Messrs. Cobb and Co. will be re-
membered by many Australian friends as the enterprising

460 THE GEEAT THIRST LAND.

firm who first established a respectable line of con-
veyances between Melbourne and Ballarat. Here they
have accomplished the same purpose, and in reward
carry the mails and treasure.

Six good horses are in front of us. "With Mr. Balfour
and numerous other friends I shake hands for the last
time, and precisely at nine the horn sounds, the Kaffirs
let go the heads of the steeds, and the giant whip
delivers one of its musket-like reports, and we are off,
more than five hundred miles lying between us and the
diamond-crested blue waves of the Indian Ocean.

Our drivers were both queer-looking fellows. The
senior looked like a Macao (near Canton) Portuguese, the
junior like a good specimen of the Kaffir. Both spoke
English, had many amusing anecdotes to narrate, were
very accommodating, and remarkably civil, to which
eulogium I may further add that they were most skilful
in all matters connected with their profession.

But behind me are seated four characters, two are
German Jews, and two English Jews. They have all
made money, and are returning to their respective native
lands, brimful of good spirits, and, I fear, bad whiskey.
They sung well, and the repertoire of one or two was
extensive, but after the most pathetic song, the choicest
morceaux of all the latest operas, especially if we were
rushing up to one of the taverns where horses were
changed, with one accord all would break out in deep
bass voice with a chorus about never getting drunk any
more. The air to which it was chanted being that
of the march in Faust on Valentine's return, it will
easily be understood that the emphasis and " go " of
the Bacchanalian ditty were considerable.

So sincere were they in this intention that as soon

MY FELLOW-PASSENGERS. 461

as the horses were pulled up, each, without a moment's
delay, ordered a glass of three-star French, a toss-off of
Geneva, or a soupje of Old Colony rum, otherwise " Cape
smoke."

At the commencement of a stage they were in-
variably in low spirits, towards its termination, however
silent they had been for an hour or two, music would
recommence, finishing as the horses were pulled up with
the chorus already alluded to.

Another of our passengers was a short, stout young
Englishman, with a don't-tread-on-my-corns air, a great
stickler for his rights, and a disliker of the fine arts in
general, and music in particular. A day or two before
leaving the Diamond-Fields he had committed matri-
mony. His wife, a fair Africander girl, was a perfect
contrast to the husband, good-tempered, affable, with an
extraordinary facility of looking at the bright side of
everything, and treating the numerous inconveniences
and mishaps as a very good joke. Then there was in-
side a very fat Boer with only one leg, which the rest
of the inmates were always begging him to take a little
paternal care of, as it invariably was getting in some-
body's way. Another, who would have egg beat up
in sherry whenever we halted, scarcely calls for notice ;
but I can't forget a blessed baby, whose lungs were so
powerful, although its body was small, that its voice
overtopped conversation — even singing — when it chose
to pipe up, and that was at least twenty-three out of
the twenty-four hours. I have heard it said that
troublesome babies invariably turn out great men, this
one, doubtless, has a brilliant future in store for it, and
when it achieves greatness, or has greatness thrust upon
it, I trust it will remember that I travelled with it on

462 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

this occasion, and never hinted even in the most remote
manner that it was a nuisance. When you travel never
abuse the babies, it is a mistake ; but when they get a
most violent attack of tantrums on, mildly suggest that
they probably have a stomach-ache, or a pin sticking in
them. You will at once be put down as a person of
feeling, and possessed of an unusual amount of common
sense. In fact, you might not be surprised to hear it
said sotto voce, " What an excellent husband that young
man would make ! "

As we approached a halting-place one of the drivers
informed me that the handsomest girl in that part of
Africa resided there, that she was daughter of the
proprietor of the tavern where we should stop, and that
I was certain to see her, as she invariably came out to
the coach for orders from the passengers.

The young lady in question was very lovely ; to
Andalusia admirers would imagine she owed her birth,
but in this they would be mistaken, for she was an
Africander of Irish parentage.

The horses are at length in, and away we fly south
over the velt, with six as wild unbroken steeds before us
as ever carried harness. For four or five miles they'
never slacked their pace, but finally the heavy sand and
heavier coach commenced to tell, and the beauties
sobered down to a steadier pace.

We have almost crossed the great Karoo Desert,
high mountains bound the southern horizon, but before
reaching them, when we shall be in the Old Colony, the
great Orange Biver or Grand Gariep has to be crossed.
This we did about nine in the morning, after enjoying
an excellent breakfast at the hotel on its northern
shore.

ORANGE RIVER. 463

This magnificent river is worthy of a description, let
me endeavour, therefore, to picture it. Its banks are
remarkably steep, in many places precipitous, and
covered with dwarf trees and brush as brilliant in their
foliage at this season of the year as an American, forest
after the first autumnal frost. As far as I could see to
the east or west high mountains marked its course, many
of them having a mile or two of plain between their
slopes and the water, while others, less considerate, pro-
jected into the river with dark frowning headland or rocky
precipice. The Orange Eiver, at the ferry, must be a
quarter of a mile broad, while just above is a noble pool
double that width, with some remarkably picturesque
rocks at its entrance. The water is a brilliant cobalt
blue, thus giving it an unnatural look in the eyes of
Europeans. At this portion it assuredly is navigable
for vessels of deep draft ; what distance it continues so
I cannot say, but where it debouches into the sea the
channels are so shallow that it is currently believed
that the greater part of its water passes into the
ocean under the sand. If it were not for this what a
grand thoroughfare it would have been for transporting
to market the immense quantities of produce that could
be raised on the almost unlimited plains that margin its
upper sources !

The incline from the ferry till level country is
reached is both long and steep, so the passengers, with
the exception of the Boer with the unruly leg, walked
to its summit. Hurrah, for the Old Colony ! for we are
in it now, and the horses hear the shout and tear along
at racing pace. One town after another is passed, all
pretty, but Cradock most so. After this a long stretch
of velt is crossed, when we commence to enter wood-clad

464 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

hills, the steep and rugged road often scarped out of
their sides. Here many of the hardest battles were
fought between our troops and the natives, and in many
of the actions we had not much to boast of, yet the
Kaffirs in those days were only armed with assegais,
while our infantry soldiers had muskets, and in the
majority of instances were supported by cavalry and
artillery. Now that the natives are well armed how
would the battle go ? Very doubtful indeed I should
think the issue of the struggle, if fought in bush or
rocky ground. I told several leading politicians and
gentlemen, when the late war between the Boers and
Kaffirs took place, that the former would inevitably be
beaten. Not one believed me, their answer invariably
was, "The Boers have always thrashed them, and will
assuredly do so again." "Yes, when the native had but an
assegai ; but now he has a rifle or musket, and knows how
to use it. Mark my words, the Boer will be worsted
in the coming fight." Who was right and who was
wrong is now a matter of history.

I hope I shall never see English soldiers engaged with
such an enemy, for the natives with their present arms
are as fine light infantry as can be found — courageous,
active, and enduring, and, better than all, requiring
little or no commissariat. Can it be otherwise with
men who follow the chase from childhood upwards, with
courage enough to attack the most dangerous animal,
and stealth sufficient to approach the most wary?
Africanders would be better than Englishmen in such
a war, but native troops led by Africander officers would
be better still. It is useless to say more on this subject —
a subject we will find a serious one at no distant day —
for to give the offer of a word of advice to one of our

POOR OLD HOLLY ALWAYS JOLLY. 465

home officials in office is but to lay yourself open to
incivility.

Grahamstown, a charming place of residence,
beautifully situated, was reached the evening of the
sixth day. All of us were exhausted and in want of a
" wash-up " and a rest, so a quiet room and comfort-
able bed were the luxuries most required, and I had
the fortune to secure both.

After two days' rest, a journey half by road, half by
rail, took me to the Bay (Port Elizabeth), where,
thoroughly broken down and worn out, I obtained ac-
commodation at the Phoenix Hotel, till Messrs. Donald
Currie and Co/s splendid ship was ready to sail. Many
of its officers knew me, and when they heard of my
arrival called upon me, yet none recognised for some
time their acquaintance of scarcely a year back.

But who also hunted me out ? Poor old Holly, very
much the worse for wear. While I remained at the
hotel he never left me, and added much to my bill by
his still existing penchant for brandy and soda-water.

He insisted upon seeing me on board, and I had not
the heart to say no. When time for him to return,
there was some difficulty in getting him shipped, for
he had taken off his boots, and could not get them
on again. At length he was in the stern-sheets of the
little craft, all right, the boat gave a roll, and off his hat
went to leeward — for it was blowing hard at the time.
However, I sent below for one to replace it. As he stood
up to receive it another roll occurred, and both his boots
disappeared into the sea. In no way disconcerted he
selected as comfortable a position as he could find,
stretched his legs along the seat, and commenced, as of
old, to sing " The Eed, White, and Blue."

E E

466 THE GREAT THIRST LAND.

Pair winds soon took us round to Cape Town, where
we embarked a select and most charming number of pas-
sengers, among whom were the Premier and leader of
the Opposition, Sir Theophilus Shepstone, and the de-
legates from Natal, also Mr. Kirkwood, Mr. Lamb, and
many others. Prom all — many of whom were old
friends — I received the greatest kindness, when well
enough to come on deck, which did not occur till we
were far into the trade winds. After that I seldom
left it, but attended their little gatherings, where
politics were certain to be discussed. As I was the
latest arrival from the interior, my opinion was often
listened to, so I was dubbed the Honourable Member
for Matabele.

Pair weather followed us, the good ship steadily and
rapidly pursued her course towards her home, and on
my arrival in Plymouth I had again to owe to Messrs.
Donald Currie and Co., and their officers, grateful thanks
for enjoying one of the pleasantest voyages I have made
in my life.

When I landed I first realised that at length I had
broken the link that connected me with the stirring life
and scenes so lately gone through in the Kalahari
Desert, or GREAT THIRST LAND.

THE END.

CASSELL PETTEB & GALPIN, BELLE SAUVA^E WORKS, LONDON, E.C.
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REV. w. MORLEY PUNSHON.

DUKE OF ARGYLL.

BISHOP OF PETERBOROUGH.
MR. R. A. CROSS.
SIR JOHN A. MACDONALD.
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MR. WILLIAM CHAMBERS.
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SIR w. GULL.
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DR. VAUGHAN.
LORD NAPIER.
DR. JAS. MARTINEAU.
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MR. FROUDE.

The World of the Sea.

Translated from the French of MOQUIN TANDON, by the Rev.
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Louis Figuier's Popular Scientific Works.

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The Human Race. Revised by ROBERT WILSON.

Mammalia. Revised by Professor E. PERCEVAL WRIGHT, M.D.

The World Before the Deluge. Revised by W. H. BRISTOW, F.R.S.

The Ocean World. Revised by Prof. E. PERCEVAL WRIGHT, M.D.

Reptiles and Birds. Revised by Captain PARKER GILLMORE.

The Insect World. Revised by Professor DUNCAN, M.D., F.R.S.

The Vegetable World. Revised by an Eminent Botanist.

Transformations of Insects.

By P. MARTIN DUNCAN, M.D., F.R.S. With 240 highly-finished
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Selections from Cassell Fetter &• Galpirfs Volumes (Continued}.

The Dord Gallery.

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The Dord Scripture Gallery of Illustration.

250 Drawings of Scripture Subjects, by GUSTAVE DOR£. With
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The Done Bible.

With 238 Illustrations by GUSTAVE DORE. Small folio, cloth, £8 ;
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Milton's Paradise Lost.

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Dante's Inferno.

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Dante's Purgatory and Paradise.

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Don Quixote.

Witty about 400 Illustrations by GUSTAVE DORE. Royal 4to,
cloth, £i i os. ; full-morocco, £3 los.

Atala.

By CHATEAUBRIAND. Illustrated by GUSTAVE DOR£ Cloth,
is.

2?

La Fontaine's Fables.

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Royal Quarto Shakespeare.

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Selections from Cassell Fetter &> Galpirfs Volumes (Continued).

Shorter English Poems.

By Professor HENRY MORLEY. Being Vol. I. of CASSELL'S
LIBRARY OF. ENGLISH LITERATURE. Containing the Leading
Characteristic Shorter Poems of English Literature, from the Earliest
. Period to the Present Time, with upwards of 200 Illustrations.
Extra crown 4to, 5*12 pages, cloth, 125. 6d.~

Illustrations of English Religion.

By PROFESSOR HENRY MORLEY. Being Vol. II. of " CasselPs
Library of English Literature." Illustrated throughout with En-
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A First Sketch of English Literature.

By Professor HENRY MORLEY. Crown 8vo, 912 pages, cloth, 75. 6d.

•Dictionary of English Literature.

Being a Comprehensive Guide to English Authors and their Works.
By W. DAVENPORT ADAMS. 720 pages, extra fcap. 4to, cloth, 155.

Dictionary of Phrase and Fable.

Giving the Derivation, Source, or Origin of Common Phrases,
Allusions, and Words that have a Tale to Tell. By the Rev.
Dr. BREWER. Demy 8vo, 1,000 pages, cloth, 75. 6d.

Art Studies of Home Life.

With Twenty-four full-page copies, printed by the Woodbury
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Sketching from Nature in Water-Colours.

By AARON PENLEY. With Illustrations in Chromo-Lithography,
after Original Water-Colour Drawings. Super-royal 4to, cloth, 155.

Principles of Ornamental Art.

By F. E. HULME, F.L.S., F.S.A., Art Master in Marlborough
College. With over 400 Designs. Royal 4to, cloth, 255.

Studies in Design.

For Builders, Architects, Designers, House Decorators, and
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Consisting of Sixty Original Designs by the Author, accompanied
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fl®= CASSELL PETTER & GALPIN'S COMPLETE CATALOGUE,

containing a List of Several Hundred Volumes, including Bibles and Religious
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8

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