'^pm^^ ^be 3, (T. Saul Collection of mtneteentb Centur? Englieb literature purcbaseD in part tbrouob a contribution to tbe Xibrar^ jfunt)s mabe b^ tbe ©epartment of jiEngUsb in TUmrereitp CoUege. V (/-' HAMPSTEAD HILL, WORKS BY J, LOGAN LOBLEY, F.G.8., Professor of Physiography and Astronomy, City of London College. ^et*lcatet» bti "^^^miixi ^ermi^iffi^n to ^{» ^afc^ttj tijc ^iite of ^tttln* In 8vo, tastefully printed on superior paper, and appropriately bound in cloth extra, gilt. With Maps and numerous Illustrations on plate-paper. Price I2S. 6d., post free. MOUNT VESUVIUS. * ^* As this work is the most valuable and co?nplete treatise upon Mount Vesuvitis, and unequalled as a book of reference both for the scientist and the popular reader, orders should be placed early with any bookseller. " A SUCCESSFUL ATTEMPT TO POPULARISE THE SCIENCE OF GEOLOGY." Recently Published. In Crown 8vo, cloth extra, price 2S. 6d., post free. GEOLOGY FOR ALL LONDON: ROPER & DROWLEY, ii, LUDGATE HILL, E.G. keat's seat. HAMPSTEAD HILL 3t6 structure, flDatcrial6, anb Sculpturiua J.'^OGAN LOBLEY, F.G.S., &c., PROFESSOR OF PHYSIOGRAPHY AND ASTRONOMY, CITY OF LONDON COLLEGE ; AUTHOR OF "mount VESUVIUS," "GEOLOGY FOR ALL," ETC. THE FLORA OF HAMPSTEAD, BY HENRY T. WHARTON, M.A., M.R.C.S., F.Z.S., &€. AUTHOR OF " SAPPHO," KTC. THE INSECT FAUNA OF HAMPSTEAD, BY THE REV. F. A. WALKER, D.D., EE.S., F.E.S., F.R.G.S , &c • AUTHOR OF "l'oRIENT," " NINE HUNDRED MILES UP THE NILE," ETC. AND THE BIRDS OF HAMPSTEAD, J. EDMUND HARTING, F.L.S., F.Z.S. cScc. ^ y^ ^ AUTHOR OF THE BIRDS OF MIDDLESEX, ETC. f\^ g0nh0n X ROPER AND DROWLEY, ii, Ludgate Hill, E.G. 1889. ^^i:ik\' OB uu CONTENTS. PAGE Preface . ,. . . . . , . . n HAMPSTEAD HILL:— CHAPTER I. THE ENVIRONS OF LONDON ...... I3 CHAPTER n. HAMPSTEAD HILL ITS STRUCTURE . . . . . 19 CHAPTER HI. HAMPSTEAD HILL — ITS MATERIALS — THE LONDON CLAY . . . 22 CHAPTER IV. THE LONDON CLAY — ITS ORIGIN, EXTENT, AND (iEOLOGICAL POSITION . 28 CHAPTER V. THE LONDON CLAY — ITS FOSSILS — ITS HISTORY . , • '35 CHAPTER VI. THE LONDON CLAY — CONDITIONS OF ITS FORMATION • • • 43 CHAPTER VIT. THE BAGSHOT SANDS ....•• 47 CONTENTS. CHAPTER VIII. PAGE HAMPSTEAD HILL — ITS SCULPTURING . . . . .52 CHAPTER IX. HAMPSTEAD HILL ITS SUBSTRUCTURE . . . . .56 Well Sections in the Neighbourhood of Hampstead . . . 6i Lists of Fossils from the London Clay of the Parish of Hampstead . 64 Bibliography of the Geology of Hampstead . . . .71 THE FLORA OF HAMPSTEAD . THE INSECT FAUNA OF HAMPSTEAD THE BIRDS OF HAMPSTEAD POSTSCRIPT .... 75 81 87 98 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Plate L— Keat's Seat .... „ II.— Map „ HI.—" Jack Straw's Castle " (Summit of the Hill) 5, IV. — Old Houses in Church Row ,» V. — Hampstead Shells „ VI.—" The Spaniards " „ VII. — Section Across the Thames Valley „ VIII. — Vale of Health „ IX.— Vertical Section Frontispiece Opposite Page i6 22 28 32 40 44 52 56 PREFACE. The recent great development of Hampstead as a residential locality has made the well-known Middlesex hill really a part of the metropolis. But although now joined to London, it still possesses many of those charms of Nature usually sought much further afield, and Hampstead Hill remains a happy hunting- ground for the naturalist. That London has within its borders an area where the Botanist, the Entomologist, and the Ornithologist, as well as the Geologist, may profitably pursue their favourite studies in the field, is a remarkable fact ; and to draw attention to this interesting feature of the great city, as well as to give the residents of Hampstead an increased pleasure and an additional interest in their delightful neighbourhood, is the object of the following pages. The first section of this little book consists, with a few alter- ations and additions, of the matter of a series of articles that appeared in The Hampstead and Highgate Express, to the courteous proprietor of which my thanks are due for permission to reprint those articles, and for the use of some of the blocks required for the illustrations. I have also to thank the Council of the Geologists' Association for allowing me to avail myself of the Geological Map of Hamp- stead which appeared in the third volume of the " Proceedings " of that Association, in illustration of a Paper by the late Mr. Caleb Evans, F.G.S. 12 PREFACE. It gives me much pleasure to acknowledge my great obligations to Dr. Wharton, the Rev. Dr. Walker, and Mr. J. E. Harting for very kindly furnishing me with their Lists of Hampstead Species, which derive a value both from not having been previously pub- lished and from the scientific position and long experience of their Authors. J. L. L. City of London College, August, 1889. HAMPSTEAD HILL. CHAPTER I. THE ENVIRONS OF LONDON. When an English summer brings glorious English summer weather, which in some years, however, is slow in coming, the thoughts of Londoners instinctively turn to almost every place except their own wonderful town — to the sea-side, to the " Lakes," to Scotland, to Wales, to Killarney or the splendid coast of Wicklow, to the Rhine, to Switzerland — but still a few who are not altogether Philistines have visions not so far afield. To these there are sufficiently attractive charms in Greater London, that belt of greenery and red brick encircling the vast metropolis and wedding town to country with an emerald and ruby ring. On every side of London this magnificent environment of the nation's capital is the wonder and delight of our north- country cousins, whose too often grimy towns and smoke- laden atmospheres seem as unfriendly to fine timber and luxuriant foliage as Nature is supposed to be to a vacuum. The wooded vales of Chislehurst, the heights of Norwood with their crystal crown, the Surrey commons, and the oak- studded glades of Richmond commanding the broad vale of 14 HAMPSTEAD HILL. Thames rich with elm groves in alto relievo, the Castle Hill of Ealing, the classic hill of Harrow, the minor but no less beautiful Wembly and Dollis Hills, with Kingsbury's secluded fields and ancient church and the finest lake in the south of England lying between, all give to denizens of the great city of the Thames spots of beauty close at home. Another sweep of the wide circle holds in its embrace the grand old glades of Greenwich and of Epping Forest, the green meadows and slopes of Tottenham, Southgate, and Hornsey, with the spire- crowned hill of Highgate sparkling with its mansions of the olden time. But that which most adorns this splendid zone of light and life is picturesque Hampstead. It connects the two great sweeps of the circle and completes the whole ring with a brilliant and worthy gem. How lovable and enjoyable and comforting to the spirit is such English scenery as that which encompasseth the great city. Not so the cold and awful Alpine peaks of rock and snow, nor the desolate and barren summits of our own mountain regions. These are by all means to be seen and explored, for the impressions they leave on the mind are deep and soul- elevating, but they are scarcely scenes to pass a life-time amongst, at least by Englishmen, who, doubtless, mentally moulded by their habitual environment, are most content where verdant vales and wooded gentle slopes delight the eye and assure the mind of peaceful repose and comfortable abundance. And who can see Hampstead itself without admiring the neighbourly contiguity of its houses and their picturesque groupings and settings, the opulent appearance ^nd beauty of its outer villas and mansions, and the luxuriant foliage with which they are surrounded, and, above all, the great open Heath, which, from its commanding position and elevation, gives on one side a view of the town-filled valley of THE ENVIRONS OF LONDON. 15 the Thames, and, on the other, a magnificent prospect of a perfect country landscape. Well may the inhabitants be proud of their town and its noble Heath. The Heath, indeed, has a national importance, for it has long been a place of healthful and invigorating recreation for the people of London. To compare small things with great, the hill mass of Hampstead with its heath-crowned summit is as markedly prominent in Middlesex as is Switzerland in Continental Europe, and, as a consequence, it may be said that as that land of mountains has become the " playground of Europe " in like manner is Hampstead, so to speak, the playground of the English metropolitan district. But how few of the multitudes of people, who every year visit Hamp- stead and enjoy its breezy Heath, remember that their pleasure and the beauty and characteristics of the place and its surround- ings are due to the internal structure of the hill, and the character of the ground below their feet. MAP TO ILLUSTRATE THE GEOLOGY OF HAMPSTEAD. A. — Bagshot Sands. B. — Upper Sandy London Clay. C. — London Clay (Main Bed). — Jack Straw's Castle. — Hampstead Heath. — Well, Lower Heath. —Child's Hill. — Burgess Hill. —Well Walk. —Conduit Spring. — Belsize Park. — Shaft, North London Railway. —West Heath. — Flagstaff. — Leg of Mutton Pond. — Church Row. 14.— Vale of Health. 15. — Hampstead Ponds. 16.— North End. 17. — Piatt's Lane. 18.— West End. 19. — Frognal House. 20.— Oakhill Park. 21. — Parish Church. 22. — Shaft, Midland Railway, 23. — Haverstock Hill. 24. — Finchley Road. 25. — Brick fields. 26. — Kidderpore Hall. 27. — High Street. 28. — Roslyn Bank. 29. — Flask Walk. 30. — Downshire Hill. 31. — Willow Road. Plate 11. MAP TO ILLUSTRATE THE GEOLOGY OF HAMPSTEAD. 2 CHAPTER II. HAMPSTEAD HILL — ITS STRUCTURE. The hill of Hampstead and its structure, with its consequent surface features and characteristics, are so interesting and in- structive that the locality has become, as it were, classic ground for London geologists, who have often assembled on the Heath to listen to a dissertation on the ground beneath them. Dr. Wetherell, Professor Prestwich, Professor Morris, Mr. Whita- ker, and Mr. Caleb Evans, and other well-known geologists, have made Hampstead the theme of numerous papers and lectures. The last-named gentleman, the late Mr. Caleb Evans, F.G.S., a resident of Hampstead, from his attentive observation of every instructive section displayed in the district through many years, was the acknowledged master of the subject. By him and by the late Professor Morris, Hampstead Heath was made enchanted ground, for both those genial teachers' greatest pleasure was in imparting to youthful students, on the ground itself, the knowledge of it they so richly* possessed. So in- teresting and instructive, indeed, is Hampstead Hill, that few places in England are more frequently referred to in illustration of physiographical teaching in London schools, for here can be seen an example and an illustration of clay and sand deposits, of hills formed by circumdenudation, of valleys of erosion, of outliers, of the cause of springs, of the formation of marshes, and the sources of rivers, as well as of the dependence of plants HAMPSTEAD HILL. and vegetable growth upon the character of the ground beneath the surface. How useful It would be if the German custom of taking the pupils of schools out to see and study instructive localities were followed in England. Not only would it be immediately instructive, but it would promote habits of observation of general educational value, and, at the same time, greatly interest and delight the pupils, diversify, and make more attractive their school life, and thereby give them greater zest and energy for their general work and study. But, although Hampstead is highly interesting and instruc- tive, the structure of the hill Is very simple, since the whole consists of only two great beds of material called " Formations," one lying on the other almost horizontally. The lower one, which forms the great bulk of the hill, is an inimense mass of clay, and the upper one, which forms the heath-covered summit, consists of sands ; thus the whole hill is made up of clay and sand. The former of these two great beds, the clay, is part of the main mass of the formation called the " London Clay," which extends eastwards from Hungerford, in Berkshire, to the sea-coast at Harwich, and constitutes by far the greater part of the extensive area formed by the two counties of Middlesex and Essex. The other and upper of the two great beds, the sand, is, on the other hand, a detached and outlying portion of the formation called the " Bagshot Sands," the main mass of which, as the name indicates, occupies the district around Bagshot in Surrey, and forms the extensive barren heaths and commons about that place, Woking, Aldershot, Frimley, and Sandhurst, but not extending uninterruptedly further eastwards than Chertsey and Weybridge. The London Clay forms the whole of the ground of Hamp- stead up to about 360 feet above sea-level, and supports the ITS STRUCTURE. 21 Bagshot Sands which form the uppermost part of the hill, in- cluding the area on which the higher portion of the town of Hampstead stands. All the higher levels of the Heath are consequently on the sand, the sterility of which was the cause of so large a tract of land near the metropolis remaining un- enclosed. Hence it is that the existence of the Heath and its appropriation to the people for ever as a public recreation ground, is the direct result of there being here a patch of the Bagshot Sands capping the London Clay forming the mass of the hill. As the extreme elevation of the hill is 443 feet above Ordnance Datum, the Bagshot Sands have here, consequently, a maximum thickness of about 80 feet. The uppermost beds of the London Clay, to the thickness of about 50 feet, are sandy, becoming more so as the junction with the overlying Bagshot beds is approached. There are therefore three more or less distinct deposits: (i) the typical London Clay forming the base and the great mass of the hill ; (2) the Upper Sandy London Clay above, and (3) the sands of the Bagshot Sands formation capping these and forming the summit of the hill. This simple structure of Hampstead Hill will be at once seen from the diagram, Plate VH,, representing an ideal section through the hill and across the valley of the Thames from the Chalk Country of Bucks and Hertfordshire on the north to the Chalk Downs of Surrey on the south. CHAPTER III. - HAMPSTEAD HILL ITS MATERIALS — THE LONDON CLAY. Of the material of which the great bulk of Hampstead Hill is composed, it will be necessary to speak somewhat in detail, since, although its general features are commonly known from the many excavations for building and other purposes which daily reveal the stiff tenacious character of this great mass of clay, yet its composition, peculiarities, and especially its extraordinary and most suggestive contents, are not by any means so well known as they ought to be. And there is one simple character of importance that Is not at all revealed by ordinary excavations, and that is its colour. This may seem a curious and unwarrant- able assertion, but it is nevertheless true, since the colour of the clay exposed in excavations that only penetrate the bed near the surface is not the colour of the mass of the clay. The colour usually seen is, as everybody knows, a yellowish brown, but this is due to a change that has taken place from contiguity to the surface which has allowed the oxygen of air and water to act on the iron matter disseminated through the clay in a manner precisely analogous to the familiar rusting of Iron by water or dampness. Thus it is that only the uppermost beds are of the well-known brown colour, while the deeper beds that have been protected from this oxidizing Influence are of quite a different hue. The true unaltered colour of this lower clay is a greyish blue, which Plale in. ITS MATERIALS— THE LONDON CLAY, 25 may be seen whenever a deep excavation or well-sinking pene- trates to a considerable depth below the surface. The change of colour produced by the complete oxidation of disseminated ferruginous matter is conspicuously seen when bricks or tiles made of blue clay are burnt, red or reddish bricks or tiles being the result. The iron matter in the unaffected deep clay is, however, an oxide, but only a first oxide, that is, it is a compound of iron with less oxygen than it is capable of combining with, and is hence called a protoxide, but the compound that gives the brown colour is one in which there is a larger proportion of oxygen and it is hence commonly called a per-oxide. It has, moreover, in addition to the oxygen, a certain amount of water combined with it, and so is called a hydrated per-oxide. But when blue-clay bricks are burnt, the iron is not only thoroughly oxidized, but is rendered anhydrous or devoid of water, and this it is that produces the bright red, not brown, colour which is the delight of modern architects and now so much in favour, and perhaps nowhere more so than at Hampstead, where in Fitzjohn's Avenue and in the new buildings of the High Street we may always see a conspicuous illustration of this interesting and beautiful chemical phenomenon. The substance of the clay, as indeed of all clays, is a compound of a very different character. It is none other than a combination of the substance of sand, or silica, or quartz, the same as rock crystal or ** pebbles," with an oxide of that very light, silvery metal we know as aluminium. Thus it is that the basis of the clay is alumina. Now, although aluminium is a light, white metal, alumina is a mineral of the hardest and most intractable character, the next hardest, indeed, to the diamond. In its commoner form it is called corrundum, and its powder emery, but, in its finest and brightest form, in its apotheosis so to speak, it is none other than the ruby and the 26 HAMPSTEAD HILL. sapphire. So we find that the substance of these splendid gems of almost adamantine hardness, is the basis of the soft and despised clay which, in wet weather at all events, we so much dislike our feet to come in contact with. The pure silicate of alumina is kaolin, a fine white clay called ** china-clay " from being used for the manufacture of porcelain, and this, when mingled with impalpable sllicious powder, with such compounds of iron as have been mentioned, and with other substances in a finely divided condition, and permeated throughout with a certain amount of water, constitutes ordi- nary clay ; and such is therefore the composition of the London Clay of Hampstead. But besides the substances that make up the body of the clay itself, and only separable by chemical analysis or separately visible by microscopic aid, there are some which form considerable embedded masses, but quite separate and distinct from the clay, and some in such quantities as to be of economic value. One of these distinct substances appears in the form of large, roughly circular masses, sometimes as much as three feet in diameter, and of considerable thickness in the centre, but gradually diminishing towards the circumference, thus forming bi-convex lens-like bodies. These are called " septaria " or '* cement stones," the latter name being given to them because they are employed for the manufacture of the so-called *' Roman cement," which was so much used in pre-Ruskin days for stuccoing the outsides of brick-built houses, their value for this purpose being due to the material of which they are composed being an admixture of calcareous and clayey matter. They are formed by the natural concentration and aggregation of the calcareous matter contained in the surrounding clay ; and, on account of internal shrinkage, radiating fissures or cracks from the centre with transverse minor cracks are produced, and these become ITS MATERIALS— THE LONDON CLA V. 27 filled up by calc-spar deposited by its crystallization from solution in water which has reached them by percolation from the exterior. Septaria, therefore, on being cut through, present a number of divisions bounded by sej>^a (hence the name) or partitions of calc-spar, and the hard substance forming the mass between taking a dull polish, some are available for small ornamental table-tops. Beautiful crystals of Selenite or crystallized sulphate of lime are also very abundant in the more exposed portions of the clay, where this substance is separated from the clay, or rather produced, by a natural chemical process. The crystals are often almost transparent, and sometimes perfectly so, frequently double, and quite regular in form, and are usually in rhomboidal prisms with bevelled sides. Selenite is the crystalline form of gypsum and alabaster, and is much softer than calc-spar, which is the corresponding crystalline form of carbonate of lime. Iron Pyrites, a compound of sulphur and iron, although not an abundant mineral in the clay of Hampstead, is so in the London Clay of other areas, especially the Isle of Sheppey, where, from the rapid destruction of the cliffs by the sea, it is collected in sufficiently large quantities from the shore to supply a manufactory of copperas. It frequently encrusts fossils, but often quickly decomposes on exposure, and so destroys the specimens. This mineral is very abundant in Nature, and sometimes occurs in beautiful crystals, and so gold-like that they are often eagerly secured under the belief that they contain the precious metal. Iron Pyrites is, however, of little com- mercial value, and is not used as an ore of iron. During the progress of the Archway excavation at Highgate, a curious soft resinous mineral was found in the London Clay, and called " Highgate Resin," and from its resemblance to the gum copal, '' Copaline." CHAPTER IV. THE LONDON CLAY — ITS ORIGIN, EXTENT, AND GEOLOGICAL POSITION. The London Clay, as a rule, is too stiff for ordinary brick- making operations, but where it has been exposed to weathering action for a long time it may be used for brick and especially for tile-making. The Upper Sandy London Clay is, however, extensively employed, as at the large brickyard below Caen Wood. The ordinary clay is used at West Hampstead and at Willesden Green, and a brickyard some years since was worked at Child's Hill. Brick Earth of the Thames Valley, a much newer deposit than the London Clay, is, however, the usual material employed at the brick-works near London. The primary origin of clay is to be found in the decomposition of the felspar composing in part granitic and other felspathic rocks, by the action of the carbonic acid gas of the atmosphere, but a knowledge of the conditions of the accumulation of any particular bed of clay forming, in whole or in part, what is known as a "geological formation" can only be approached by attention being given to the organic remains found embedded in it, and by an acquaintance with its geographical extension and relative position to other formations. Though the London Clay bears that name on account of its constituting so much of the district around the metropolis, it has a much greater extension than the neighbourhood of London or even of the Thames Valley. Plate IV. OLD HOUSES IN CHURCH ROW, THE LONDON CLAY. 31 The London Clay is an important member of the Tertiary or newest of the three great divisions of the Sedimentary rocks. In England the Tertiary rocks (clays and sands are '' rocks " in geology) occupy now two distinct areas, separated by a con- siderable distance from each other. These areas are called " Basins " from the beds having an inclination from both sides of the area towards the interior, and thus we have the " London Basin " and the " Hampshire Basin." The latter includes the southern portion of Hampshire and the northern portion of the Isle of Wight, and is separated by the Chalk area between Win- chester and Basingstoke from the London Basin which extends eastward from the foot of the Marlborough Downs, both south and north of the Thames, to the sea, and, broadening eastwardly, it forms a more or less triangular area between the Chalk of Hampshire, Surrey, and Kent on the south, and the Chalk of Bucks, Herts, and Suffolk on the north. The whole of the Tertiaries are divided into the Eocene, or lowest and oldest, the Miocene, the Pliocene, and the Post- Pliocene, the uppermost and newest, and the London Clay is a # member of the lower division of the Eocene group of strata. The lowermost formation of the Eocene in England is called the Thanet Sands, and reposes on the Chalk the uppermost of the Secondaries. The Thanet Sands are followed by the Woolwich and Reading Series, and in Kent by the Oldhaven Beds. Over- lying these formations, which are collectively named the Lower London Tertiaries, is the London Clay, a much more considerable deposit than either of the others. This vast accumulation of argillaceous matter extends, as before stated, from Hungerford in Berkshire to the German Ocean, its most eastern point being at Harwich, its greatest southern extension is near Canterbury, and its most northern at Sudbury on the northern border of Essex, 32 HAMPSTEAD HILL. It occupies parts of Berkshire, Hampshire, Surrey, and Kent, forms almost the whole of Middlesex, and by far the greater part of Essex. Thus we see that the clay of Hampstead Hill is by no means an isolated mass, but that it, is merely an elevated portion standing above the general level of the present surface of a very extensive formation, the whole of which must therefore have been produced by deposition in one sea and during one epoch of time. Plate V. VOLUTA. Nautilus. (Greatly reduced. Cassidaria. ROSTALLARIA. Pectunculus Triton. HAMPSTEAD SHELLS. {Fossils from the London Clay.) All the above figures except that of the Nautilus are drawn from specimens taken from the clay of Hampstead by the Author. 3 CHAPTER V. THE LONDON CLAY — ITS FOSSILS — ITS HISTORY. About fifty years ago a few young men, ardent naturalists and at the same time sociable and friendly, as ought always to be the case with lovers of Nature, formed the " London Clay Club," and devoted themselves not merely to convivial suppers but also to the study of the great bed of clay on which London stands and especially to that of its fossils. The late Professor Morris, the first occupant of the Goldsmid Chair of Geology at University College, was one of the little band, so was Dr. Bowerbank of fossil-sponge fame and founder of the Palceontographical Society, and so was Dr. Wetherell of Highgate. To the last-named gentleman all geologists and naturalists are greatly indebted for what we know of the ** life of the period," as geologists say, that is, of the creatures that lived at the time that the London Clay was being deposited at the bottom of the sea, for during the time Dr. Wetherell lived at Highgate the Archway Road was formed, and, this cutting through the hill at the level of the most fossil- iferous zone of the London Clay, was the cause of a very large number of fossils being disinterred. With assiduous care the Highgate member of the London Clay Club collected and preserved every fossil he could obtain from the Archway cutting, not only by his own hands, but also by stimulating the friendly aid of the workmen, who were delighted to keep for "the doctor" every shell and every frag- 36 HAMPSTEAD HILL. ment of organism that pickaxe and spade revealed. Thus have been preserved for the instruction of future generations (the collection is now safe practically for all time in the British Museum) the remains of the animals that lived where London now stands, long before those Alpine peaks we call " the ever- lasting hills " were in existence. These animals were all marine ; they all lived in a salt-water sea such as washes the London Clay shores on the coast of Essex to-day. And that sea must have continued receiving muddy sediment during an immense period of time, for the accumulated mass was 500 feet thick. The present thickness of the London Clay varies very much, local thinning being due to eroding or denuding agencies that have taken away to the sea by means of rain, streams, and rivers, from areas which are now comparatively low-lying, the greater portion of the original thickness. Besides, however, local thinnings, there is a general diminution of the thickness of the deposit towards the west. The greatest thickness occurs in the Isle of Sheppy, where it is found to be about 470 feet. At Hampstead, where the London Clay is overlain by the next succeeding formation, the Bagshot Sands, there is presumably the full original thickness of the deposit in the Middlesex area, and it is here about 400 feet thick. The data given by the details of the sections exposed by wells that have been sunk in various parts of the district show clearly that the thickness depends upon the elevation above sea- level, and that therefore the thinning process has taken place on the top, and, consequently, has been due to denudation, or the wearing away of the surface by weathering action, which at a few points has spared portions of the next newer deposit, and so the original thickness of the London Clay at those places is shown. Thus at Whitaker's Brewery, Camden Town, the London Clay THE LONDON CLAY— ITS FOSSILS—ITS HISTORY. 37 is 140 feet thick ; at Camden Town Station (L. & N. W. R.), 144 feet; at the Zoological Gardens, Regent's Park, 155 feet; at Cricklewood, 2 1 2 feet ; and at the old well at the bottom of the Lower Heath, 289 feet. At Hampstead Heath, at Harrow, and at High Beach in Essex, remnants of the Bagshot Sands form the summit of the land, and hence at these points the full thickness of the London Clay in those districts remains^jr At the Crystal Palace, Sydenham, the whole of the once overlying Bagshot Sands has been taken off, but a portion of the uppermost bed of the London Clay, the Upper Sandy London Clay, caps the hill, so that had Sydenham Hill not been worn down quite so much it would have had at the summit a patch of Bagshot Sands like Hampstead Hill. Since the London Clay forms a member of the Tertiaries of the Hampstead Basin, it may be safely concluded that it has at one time extended over the Chalk area lying between the two Tertiary Basins. There has therefore been a continuous bed of the London Clay from Harwich to the Isle of Wight, where portions may be seen in White Cliff and Alum Bays. But that was not its extreme extent by any means, for it is represented on the other side of the Channel, in France, near Dieppe, and also in the neighbourhood of Dunkirk, while some beds in the Belgian area appear to be of the same age, and were doubtless deposited in the same sea. What changes in the geography of this part of the European area are told to us by this superficial glance at the extension of the London Clay ! for it tells of continuous continental land with- out the English Channel, without the straits of Dover, without the white cliffs of Albion, and without the Solent and Spithead to insulate the Isle of Wight. But it tells much more than this and of an earlier epoch. It tells of the time when the whole of the area it now occupies was sea, and from its utmost extension 38 HAMPSTEAD HILL. we learn the minimum extent of the sea in which It was de- posited. And still more even than this may be learned, from the fossils which are embedded in it, of geographical changes. For, since they show the kind and character of the organic life of the London Clay sea, so also do they indicate clearly to us the general climatal conditions of the area of the sea ; or, in other words, they tell us whether the sea was a warm one or a cold one. The London Clay furnishes an abundant and interesting fossil Fauna, and a less abundant but still interesting fossil Flora. The fossil Flora, or assemblage of plant remains, is almost exclusively confined to the Isle of Sheppey area, where large quantities of fruits have been found fossil. The fruits have evidently been similar to those now growing on the banks of tropical rivers, and which at certain seasons almost cover the surface of their waters. Many species have been described by Dr. Bowerbank from the Sheppey London Clay, but the genus best represented greatly resembles the Nipa, so abundant on the banks of the Ganges, and is therefore called Nipadites. The , inference from the abun- dance of these remains of land plants in the Isle of Sheppey, and their limitation to that area, is that in that neighbourhood debouched a river, which, after running through lands covered with palms and other tropical vegetation, brought the fruits which had fallen on its surface to the sea, to the bottom of which they in due course sank and so were embedded in the accumulating sediments. The fossil Fauna of the London Clay, though abundant, is subject to remarkable restrictions, both as to area and vertical position. Thus the higher Classes, those having backbones, or the Vertebrata, the reptiles and fishes in fact, are almost exclusively confined to the Kentish area, while the distribution of the lower THE LONDON CLAY— ITS FOSSILS— ITS HISTORY. 39 Classes, those without backbones, the Invertebrata, or what are commonly, though very incorrectly, called ** shell-fish," to which nearly all the fossils of the Hampstead area belong, is thus described by Professor Prestwich : " It would appear that although a great proportion of the fossils range at intervals vertically throughout the London Clay, yet their development is very different in different zones, being abundant in some, and scarce in others, whilst each zone is further marked by a few charac- teristic species ; thus forming distinct, although nearly related groups." The Vertebrata consist chiefly of reptiles and fishes. So numerous are the remains of turtles in the London Clay of Sheppey that no less than seven species have been described, although only two species are now known to be living in all the seas of the globe. In the class of fishes, eighty-eight species are recorded from the Sheppey area and only six or seven from the Hampstead district. Many of these were quite similar in character to fishes now living though not the same in specific detail. Of all the localities in the Middlesex area, Highgate, as has been intimated, has proved by far the most prolific of organic remains. The very large number of 180 named and described species were obtained from the Archway excavation by Dr. Wetherell. These were disentombed from a bed about 130 feet below the level of the summit of the hill, doubtless the same bed which has proved to be prolific of fossils at Hampstead but probably lower than the Sheppey zone. This bed was cut into in 187 1, when a sewer was being constructed along a portion of the Finchley Road at Child's Hill. Mr. Caleb Evans obtained sixty species from this excavation. He described the beds as consisting of a yellowish clayey sand, to the depth of 12 feet, with few fossils, but passing down first into a dark-grey clayey 40 HAMPSTEAD HILL. sand and then into a sandy clay, at the base of which was ordinary stiff clay. In the sandy clay fossils were in great abundance, but of these a few species very largely predominated. By far the most abundant were a Valuta and a small bivalve shell, a PeclMnadus. I myself, in a very short time — less than half an hour — obtained from this excavation over a hundred of these shells. Though not found at this spot the beautiful Nautilus shell is characteristic of this zone, and was conspicuous at High- gate. From this it will be seen that this fossiliferous bed is at about 130 feet below the summit of the Heath, ot* about 300 feet above sea-level. An excavation in high ground near Child's Hill, in 1866, was also described by Mr. Evans. Here the base beds of the Bagshot Sands gradually became more clayey and contained a great amount of water. Lower down these beds passed into the sandy clay containing again the Voluta and the Pectunculus in great numbers. This sandy clay extended along Piatt's Lane and the Finchley Road nearly to New West End. Between Child's Hill and North End the sewers traversed the water-bearing stratum, but at one spot, in the swampy ground by the " Leg of Mutton Pond," the fossiliferous bed was reached. Mr. Evans writes : '' A similar succession of strata was seen in 1862 in drainage works in Frognal Lane. The upper part of this exposure showed the yellow Bagshot Sand at Frognal House. Lower down the lane, near the entrance to Oak Hill Park, the dark-grey sand was seen, and at the corner of the lane leading to the Parish Church and near the Priory, the sandy clay." Let us hope that there are many residents in Hampstead who will emulate the habit of observation and the single-minded desire to record facts of Nature which Mr. Evans so markedly possessed. Plate VI CHAPTER VI. THE LONDON CLAY — CONDITIONS OF ITS FORMATION, Of our children who pick up shells on the sea-shore and bring them home to Hampstead as trophies of their, to them, great but delightful travels and adventures, how few there are who know that sea shells are in the clay on which their homes are built. But the Hampstead shells are like those they only see in the sea-side shop, and cannot find with all their industrious search on the beach below, for they are similar to the beautiful West Indian shells so temptingly displayed for sale, and thus these shells teach the interesting fact that warm climatal condi- tions prevailed during the formation of the clay of Hampstead, for living volutes and nautili we know are only to be found in tropical or sub-tropical seas. This conclusion is confirmed by the remarkable fossils of the Isle of Sheppey. The many remains of turtles there found, together with the abundance of fossil tropical-like fruits have led some to the conclusion that torrid conditions obtained, but the small size of the volutes and other warm sea shells seem to indicate rather a moderately warm or sub-tropical sea, but certainly one much warmer than that which now washes the shores of the British Islands. Although not a very deep sea, there is reason for supposing it to have had a depth that would allow of a considerable variation of temperature, and have much warmer water where shallow near the shore than at its greater depths, by which 44 HAMPSTEAD HILL. both sub-tropIcal and temperate marine creatures might find waters of the temperature they required. The warmer cHmate of this area at the period of the forma- tion of the London Clay has formed the subject of much discussion, and various ways of accounting for it have been suggested. Some suppose a change in the position of the earth's axis, some a greater heat of the sun ; but it should be remembered that changes of geographical outlines of land and sea produced by those slow and long-continued upward and downward movements of the earth's surface, which, in some region or another, have always been going on, will account for much climatal alteration. By supposing a sea closed to all northerly currents of cold water, and open to the south-west by which it would receive the full benefit of those warm flows from the mid-Atlantic which even now raise the temperature of the water on our southern and western coasts, we may easily account for a very considerable increase of temperature at a particular epoch. Plate VI r. 9UM0Q apjoj^. ^ morp^jy 'mcrj[o^ ^pxisAlg. 9num(j^ ud/ny 5 '"mn if) qyv^sfhuv]^ t3i ^ |Vi '^nr^A T^-j^g:- &muj^